THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES vL. VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS, ETC. Vert de Vert's Eton Days, OTHER SKETCHES AND MEMORIES. KY THE REV. A. G. L'ESTRANGE. author of 'the village of palaces,' 'the Friendships of m r. mitford,' etc LONDON : ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1S87. The circumstances related in the following pages are not fictitious, but mostly derived from my own experience. I have, as the reader will observe, grouped and connected them, and occasionally added some embellishments. L'E. OQQQC! CONTENTS Vert de Vert's Eton Days — Chapter I. — First Experiences — Our Pupil Room — Fagging — Tarts and ' Wallflowers' - - i Chapter II. — 'Trials'— Masters— Hoaxing - 32 Chapter III. — Swells — Games — The Boats - 53 Chapter IV. — An Olden Holiday — The Chris- topher - - - - - "65 Chapter V. — ' Shirking' — Festivals— Tone of the School — The Eton Magazines - - - 78 On Half-a-crown - - - - - 104 Love's Laughter - - - - - 106 The Primrose- - - - - - 125 Banditti - - - - - - 126 Proposals ._.--- 143 Scents - - - - - - - i57 Successful Men - - - - - 159 The Oak - - - - - - '75 Yachting. Chapter I. — An Island Romance - - 177 viii coA^T/^yrs. I'AGE Y AC H T I N G. — Continued. \ Chapter II. — The Coast of Ireland— A National- ist — (Erin) - - - - - 138 Chapter III. — Priests and Peasants - - 202 Chapter IV.— The Yacht's Crew— Becalmed - 21S Chapter V. — Abervrac'h - - - - 238 Chapter VI. — Life at Molcne - - - -45 Chapter VII. — Roscoff— The Bretons— Sark - 261 Chapter VIII. — Cherbourg.— Louise - - 274 Homeward Bound . . - - . -94 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. CHAPTER I. First Experiences — Our Pupil Room — Fagging — Tarts and Wallflowers. Eton has changed from age to age in accord- ance with the circumstances and feehngs of the times. Sir Thomas Wyat obtained the provostship from Henry VHI. because it would bring him his diet, lodging, horse-meat, servant's wages, riding charges, and one hundred pounds a year. The headmaster's remuneration ought certainly to have been liberal at this time, for he gave much in return. Tusser the agriculturist bears witness to the activity of the terrible Udall at Eton : 'Where stripes fifty-three All given to me At once I had For faults but small — Or none at all.' Boys need not regret that those good old days 1 2 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. have departed ; but perhaps some land-owning" parents who find it difficult to meet their sons* accounts would not object to the charges in the eighteenth century, as in 1725 an oppidan's ex- penses only amounted to /"45 a year. Those of Pitt (Earl of Chatham) did not reach that amount. In 1764 the school rose, under energetic management, to the unprecedented number of five hundred boys ; and in 1796 a great event took place in the world of school sports. Eton played Westminster at cricket on Hounslow Heath. The oppidans all took French leave on this occasion to go to the match, but, alas ! the other side was victorious. If we could peep into Eton as it existed at the commencement of this century we should see a very different state of things to that which is now presented. The authorities are grand in ' cauli- flower ' wigs, and the fags are busy cleaning their masters' boots and clothes. As to the collegers, some are employed in sawing up logs of wood. Their home is the ' Long Chamber,' where they sleep, study, and riot. At night it is dimly lighted by dip candles stuck into paper holders, and round the large fire sit the upper boys, frying and roasting purloined fish and piggies. Boys returning home after dusk ring all the OLD AMUSEMENTS. 3 dames' bells, and furious encounters take place with hoops between collegers and oppidans. Sometimes the assistant-masters awaken the con- sciences of their pupils with a tingling box on the ear. Swimming was in great favour at this period. Three miles were often accomplished, and some boys would show their skill by taking headers off Windsor bridge. ' Snaggles,' or small trout, then abounded in the Thames, and those who took to fishing occasionally landed a good salmon- trout.* Others hired guns and went out shooting. In 1817 the boys started a dramatic society, not much to the masters' satisfaction, as it caused dissensions between them and their wives. The ladies encouraged these performances against the protests of their better halves, and actually went in sedan chairs to Datchet Lane to see them. But before long Dr. Keate interposed, and extinguished these frivolous amusements. He was a great disciplinarian in his own way, and must have had strength equal to his convictions, * By my time fishing had degenerated into a few lower boys trying for bleak. If the rumour spread that a trout had been seen, a regiment of men started from Windsor and Eton to fish for it, but no Eton boys were in its ranks. Wiring pike in the stream with a noose or a pole was an old school amusement, and not uncommon in my day. I — 2 4 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. for it is recorded that he once flogged eighty boys consecutive^. By the year 1825 we find peg-tops and hoops discarded — much too puerile — and the upper boys keeping beagles and driving (against rules) gigs and tandems even as far as the cock-pit at Maidenhead. This change was not accompanied by any great improvement in domestic comfort. Some of the rooms were as small as five feet by six, some were not carpeted, and a few of those on the ground-floor were rendered fragrant by the contents of pails descending from the upper windows. At church the sixth form and noble- men sat in the stalls, in which dignified position they munched almonds and raisins during divine service. The lower boys were also active : on the fifth of November they revenged their wrongs by making a bonfire of their Greek Grammars in the school-yard ; and later in the year, when the snow came, they would industriously collect it in the house, in order that in the evening they might overwhelm some little fellow and his books with the icy pile. The last four decades have produced an un- usual number of alterations, but still the old place retains some of its former features. The picture which will be presented in the following pages PREPARATION. 5 is taken from the five years between 1845 and 1850. The great Dr. Hawtrey was at this time headmaster, and the old system was in many respects unchanged, though towards the end of the time the new order was foreshadowed by additional examinations. After these introductory observations I shall request De Vert to come and tell his story in his own words : — The name of Eton had been familiar to me from my earliest years. Several of my cousins had been there, and they seemed to speak of their Eton days as the happiest period of their lives. My uncle, for whom I had an immense admiration on account of the skilful way in which he manu- factured bird traps, had also been there ; and often in the winter evenings, before my hated bedtime arrived, would take me upon his knee and tell rne such stories of his school-life as greatly excited my juvenile ambition. He had actually blacked boots, been made a warming-pan of, climbed out of windows and over garden walls, and finally had been duly marked with the Eton arms by the birch of old Keate, who was very unwilling to * spoil ' so good a child. My parents did not take the same pleasure that I did in these recitals. They thought my uncle was unsettling my mind and teaching me naughty 6 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA VS. tricks ; besides, as my papa observed, he had not decided upon sending me to Eton. But after what I had heard I was quite decided upon going, and from the day that I reached twelve gave my parents no peace whatever. I became desponding and irritable, so that it was thought better to entertain the project ; and an old friend, being asked his opinion, replied judiciously that for steady boys Eton was a desirable place, but that an erratic genius would be better under stricter supervision. How delighted I was on hearing that judgment had been given in my favour! How overwhelmed when, on applying to one of the Eton masters, we were informed that as I could not write Latin verses I could not be ad- mitted to the school ! The fact was that up to that time I had been under the care of a private tutor, and my studies had been principally confined to the modern languages. I had, indeed, a slight acquaintance with Latin and Greek, but of versification I was supremely ignorant. Here, then, was an unex- pected and apparently insurmountable difficulty. I was in danger of being sent to Harrow, where I could be admitted later; but by active importunity I persuaded my parents to send me to a 'crammer,' or * coach,' and promised to acquire the necessary PREPARATION. 7 proficiency before I arrived at the prescribed limit of fourteen. My studies were now directed into an entirely new channel. In Greek I was instructed in a book called ' Farnaby,' containing a choice selec- tion of jests and epitaphs, all of which seemed to me to be equally melancholy. I never was able, with the aid of the best lexicon, to find much point in a Greek joke. In Latin I was introduced to the charms of poesy by writing ' nonsense ' verses, that is, such as consisted of words but contained no ideas, resembling, in this respect, the effusions of some living bards. After emerging from this poetical purgatory, I arrived in a bright region where I sang of woods and streams, and trees and fields, and revelled in eternal spring; and I was finally admitted into Arcadia itself, and wrote amatory addresses to Phillis, Chloe, Daphne, and all the rest of them, even the nymphs and goddesses not being free from my persecution. All this ought to have been very delightful, and would have been so had I not been obliged to express my feelings in words fitted together like a Chinese puzzle, and some- times to omit my strongest claim to consideration on the ground that it contained a false quantity. At the end of the year, however, I and three other 8 VEJ?T DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. little boys left our tutor's with a vocabular}- for blushes, glances, sighs, groans, and ejaculations sufficient to move the compassion of the most cruel mistress or the most exacting master. The awful day of examination now approached, and nry papa took me to one of the assistant masters. He always accompanied me on visits to the dentist, and this appeared somewhat similar. I had need of support on this occasion, for there was an indescribable ' something ' about Mr. Cookesley that filled me with apprehension. Whether it was his suavity or his faultless shaven face I cannot say ; but when he bade me be seated, and handed me the sense for verses and a sheet of paper, I seemed to be in the power of some gentlemanly executioner. Nymphs and goddesses, with all their blushes and impro- prieties, vanished into thin air, and I felt as though my mind were as blank as the surface of the paper before me. It was a relief when he quitted the room with my papa, and I was left alone with my troubles. I have since heard of a boy who, under similar circumstances, got out of the window and went to a friend at the Christopher, who did his verses for him. How appalling did that smooth sheet before me appear ! How glad should I have been to be FIRST EXPERIENCES. 9 able to say, 'Take back the virgin page!' But yet upon my performances upon it depended all my hopes of an Eton career. I dipped my pen three times in the ink before I could summon courage to pollute its snowy whiteness, and when I did so it was — oh, horror ! — by a great blot, the sight of which almost deprived me of breath. This misadventure, however, had one good effect : the field was now broken, and I felt I must exert myself to atone for my black offence. Nothing occurred to interrupt my work of fixing and joining until, about half an hour after I had com- menced, I heard a light tap at the door. ' Come in,' I said timidly. A little boy about three feet nothing presented himself, and, looking round, asked in an off-hand manner which seemed to me bordering on pro- fanity : ' Where's my tutor ?' I was unable to inform him, and he then walked over to the other side of the table at which I was writing, and eyed me with undisguised and, as I thought, unpleasant curiosity. ' Are you coming to my tutor's ?' he inquired. ' Yes, I believe so,' I simpered. This seemed to throw him into profound specu- lation. lo VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. ' Have you been in to speeches ?' at length he asked. ' No, I have not.' * Then you'll get pretty well squashed when you go,' he added, with evident satisfaction, and dis- appeared, grinning with enjoyment at my mystifi- cation and alarm. My papa called for me in the evening, and next day we returned and heard, to my great delight, that I had passed the examination, and was to be entered on the books in the afternoon. The head- master's duty not being of so personal a character as those of the assistants, he was proportionably less formidable, and kept smiling and bowing with charming affability and condescension. I had to inscribe my name in a great book, an operation I performed in my largest round hand, bearing in mind that its pages might some day be searched to find so valuable an autograph. This being accomplished, my papa left me at my dame's with his blessing, a sovereign, and a plum cake. Notwithstanding the high position to which I had now attained, I must confess that I felt very desolate as the carriage drove away. There was no one to sympathize with me or care what become of me. I saw some boys playing about and talking to one another, but they only stared ^ FIRST EXPERIENCES. 1 1 at me as at some unnatural phenomenon. It was a great relief when the housemaid came down and took me up to show me my room. My ex- pectations as to accommodation were naturally great. Eton had always been connected in my mind with everything grand and superlative, and I looked forward to some unusual elegance and luxury. Picture my consternation when I was directed to a sort of closet, about a quarter the size of my bedroom at home, and which with its barred windows seemed like a chamber in a prison or lunatic asylum. The furniture was all of the commonest wood, and consisted of a table, two chairs, well carved by preceding generations, a bureau — a sort of iniiltiujt in parvo for books, clothes, and everything else — and a large press, the use of which I could not divine, though it seemed to me unpleasantly like a place of punishment. It contained my bed, but my misgivings were not without foundation, for I have heard of boys turning one another up and fastening them into these receptacles. The motherly person who accompanied me was most kind, and seemed desirous of making me comfortable as far as lay in her power. She unpacked my portmanteau, and laid my clothes neatly in the little drawer, then spread my cloth, 12 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. made me a large pot of weak tea, and brought up my ' order,' which consisted of a hunch of bread and a thin shce of butter on a piece of paper. This seemed to me but an unsavoury repast, but it was seasoned by a sense of my newly-acquired dignity, although I could not but think Eton a very different place from what I had expected. In the evening my tutor sent for me to go to the pupil-room. It was situated close to the back door, had no carpet, and was furnished with three rows of ancient desks and benches, melancholy to behold. The only thing which seemed to be liberally supplied was ink, and of this the little boys sitting round w^ere actively taking advantage, for not only pens, but fingers, books, and every- thing else seemed saturated with the indelible fluid. Each of the pupils had a ruled sheet — which looked like a tax-paper — before him, and was supposed to be doing derivations ; that is, tracing out the parentage and pedigree of certain misbegotten Greek words. I was directed to sit down with the rest, and took my place between two boys who appeared to be hard at \vork; but I found that in reality one was cutting his name on the alread}- well-scored desk, and the other draw- ing likenesses of my tutor in a grotesque and pre-Raphaelite style. As soon as I was seated PUPIL ROOM. 13 they each began to inquire my name, and on my reply my artistic neighbour drew something hke a sack with two handles, and passed it round the room, with ' De Vert ' inscribed under it. Indignant at such disrespectful treatment, I endeavoured to remonstrate, but my labour was in vain, and only produced a pin from my wood- carving neighbour, with which he pricked me so mercilessly that I could not obtain a minute's rest. While expostulating and trying to seize my tormentor's arm, I was suddenly startled by my tutor's voice calling out in an authoritative tone : * De Vert, attend to your work. If you have finished, I will give you something more.' Finished ! alas, I had not commenced ! ' You'll be swished to-morrow, De Vert, if you don't do your derivations,' said my neighbour with the pin. ' Yes, that you will,' corroborated the pre- Raphaelite ; ' and pretty tight, too ; you'll be " diverted." You'd better look slippery.' ' But how can I do anything while you're tea«;ing me so ?' ' Teasing you ? that is good. I say, Smith, he calls bullying " teasing " him. Who tnnght you that word — the lady's maid ?' * I don't know,' I replied sulkily. 14 VERT DE VERrS ETON DAYS. ' Oh, you're ^oing to be cocky, are you ? That won't do here, I can tell you. You'll soon have to chain up,' he added, f^iving me a pinch. ' De Vert !' called out my tutor, with significant severity, 'don't let me have to speak to you again.' But the chief disturbance took place when my tutor was called from the room for a few minutes. All the boys left their work and stood up, and some of them turned their attention to me in anything but an agreeable manner. Half-a-dozen voices called out together — * What's your name ?' * I've told you,' I returned. 'You must answer your name when you are asked,' was the reply, ' until you've been a year at the school.' This law having been enunciated, every boy in the room demanded my name in turn with merciless pertinacity ; and although the Christian virtues of forbearance and patience under injuries had been well instilled into me at home, I felt myself losing my temper under such provocation. At the same time my new Greek Grammar, which I felt proud of and had missed, was thrown at me from the other end of the room, and I found that some genius had assiduously inscribed ' De Vert is a fool ' on every leaf of it. This was too PUPIL ROOM. 15 much. All my amiability vanished, and I de- manded fiercely, ' Who has done this ?' 'Crown him ! crown him !' cried several voices at once; and at the word a little urchin jumped upon one of the forms, unhooked the bell of the gas-lamp, and clapped it on my head. It was full of lamp soot, so that the state of my head and hair may be imagined. I felt quite wild and reckless, seized my decorator round the waist, and after a contest, we both fell over and rolled struggling under one of the desks. At this moment my tutor's step was heard in the passage, and all rushed to their places. My antagonist was up much quicker than I, and was sitting as motionless as though he had been a fossil for centuries. ' De Vert !' said my tutor on entering, ' making a disturbance again ! This is a bad beginning. What are you doing with the lamp-bell ?' ' Nothing, sir," I replied, with conscious inno- cence. As he looked at me he seemed to find it difficult to maintain his gravity, but succeeding, demanded : ' Then who took it down ?' ' You won't sneak ?' whispered the genius of the lamp. It was a point of honour, made so probably by i6 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. wrong-doers, that no one should betray another to a master. As I made no reply, our tutor said : * Very well. You'll all write out the ' Penseroso ' of Milton, and let me have it at two o'clock to- morrow.' At half-past nine we showed up our derivations; and then, as the other boys told Spratt they were not going to write out the Penseroso, he had to give himself up, and was condemned to expiate his offence next morning upon the block. But what weighed most on my mind that night was that my tutor had informed me that I should have to say twenty lines of Ovid by rote next morning. My severest task hitherto had been to learn ten in a day ; to learn twenty in an hour seemed superhuman labour. I asked some of the boys what would happen if I failed, and they assured me that a ' swiping ' or ' swishing' was the regular penalty. Next morning, after a miserable night, I went for the first time into school."^ The long ' Upper School ' we entered •■■ We rose in the morning by candlelight. The fourth form had an infhction called ' Long-morning.' They had to be in school by half-past seven, but when the masters over- slept themselves there was a ' run ' — i.e., no school. It would appear that there was an earlier school formerly, for we read of six o'clock school. 'SAVIXG LESSOX: 17 had an ancient, dingy appearance, with old forms, scored panelhng, and grimy windows. In four large boxes, sat severe-looking personages in caps and gowns, round each of whom a knot of little boys was collected, following each other in repeating parts of the 'saying lesson.' I became so nervous that when my turn came I should not have been able to go through a single line had I not been assisted in an un- expected manner. As it was one part of the duty of the ' prsepositor,' a boy of the class, to provide the master with a book of this lesson, so it was another part to place a second copy open on the form below where our master — who by some merciful dispensation was shortsighted and kept his nose into his book — was unable to see it. By this arrangement things went on merrily, the boys reading off the lesson accurately, and the master dismissing each with an approving ' Next.' Eleven o'clock school was over in half an hour, and at twelve all the lower boys in our house assembled with undisguised delight to see Spratt ' swished.' Everyone but himself seemed to think it capital fun. We accompanied him upstairs to the headmaster's room — a small chamber adjoin- ing the upper school. Here were the full terrors of the law. The block, with all its appalling 2 1 8 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. associations, had been drawn forth, and beside it stood two collegers in their long black gowns, as if about to assist at a real execution. The centre of the scene was formed by the doctor himself; but how changed from the obsequious courtier of yesterday ! There he stood, stern and statuesque, with his nose sublimely elevated, and the birch rod in his hand — eternal thunder ' settled on his head.' ' Spratt minor !' he demanded with marked and awful brevity. ' Here, sir,' replied the culprit, emerging from the crowd with an elongated countenance, and wearing a pair of thick leather gauntlets. ' Go down !' commanded the doctor airily. ' Please, sir, it's my first fault,' urged Spratt, in a tone of injured innocence. ' Why, you were here last week !' replied the doctor indignantly. 'No; please, sir, that was my major' (elder brother). ' I know your face perfectly,' insisted the doctor. ' And more than his face,' suggested a boy behind me. ' At all events,' concluded the doctor, ' I only allow first fault for lessons. Go down ! — a lamp- bell is a lamp-bell !' THE BLOCK. 19 There was no contradicting this, and his only plea having failed, Spratt was soon kneeling on the block. The object of the gauntlets, which I could not at first understand, now became manifest, for every time the birch descended he thrust his hand in the way to break its force. The collegers did all in their power to prevent this evasion of justice, but he nevertheless some- times succeeded, and accordingly the doctor, who was conscientious, gave him a sly cut just as he was rising, to square accounts and make up for all deficiencies. [I may here observe that occasionally a boy found it an advantage when he had a brother a twin, or very much like him. When complained of he could say his brother was the delinquent, and the doctor sometimes became so puzzled between them that he hesitated about the punishment.] Next day a little boy, who occupied the room below me, and was not altogether proof against the attractions of my plum cake, proposed that we should mess together. Eton is in this respect more sociable than Oxford, and there is scarcely anyone there who takes his breakfast and tea alone. Sometimes three or four join, and they usually in turn make little additions to the repast. The boys at these messes are generally good 20 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. friends, of the same standinj^ in the school, and the quiet morning and evening reunion was a pleasant contrast to the turmoil of business or pleasure during the day. The only thing that interfered with our enjoy- ment at this time was fagging — a word which has widely different significations. The lower boys in each house belong to the head or captain of it, and he, according to his generosity, appoints some of them to attend on the fifth form below him. The amount of fagging therefore depends on the characters and number of the upper boys in the house. In some cases it is a mere form, like tendering a rose in token of vassalage, but with us, unfortunately, it was a reality. At nine every morning we laid our masters' cloth and breakfast things and then waited for their arrival, which was generally late, as they were ' swells ' in the ' eight ' or ' eleven,' and moved with a slow- ness suitable to their dignity. Woe betided us if, on their appearance, anything was misplaced on the table. If a fork or the mustard was wanting, summary punishment was inflicted, even though the deficiency was immediately supplied. Our masters then generally sent us out to Webber's, a well-known cookshop, to see whether their hot meat was ready. Here some dozen or more fags FAGGING. 21 would be seen anxiously assembled round a large kitchen fire, while a portly dame was manipulating a hissing collection of gridirons and frying-pans, containing chops, steaks, sausages, and kidneys. On our return with the required dish, and after a little rough joking, the permission ' You may go ' met our delighted ears. By this time our tea was often cold, and we had only time to snatch a few mouthfuls of our uninviting ' order ' before we went into the pupil-room. Something of the same kind, except the meat service, occurred at tea time, and fagging was not over after ' lock up,' for during the evening the fifth form in the house were perpetually calling ' Here !' When this dismally droning sound reached the lower boys, the quickest of them instantly cried out ' Finge !' which was supposed to excuse him from attendance. On answering the call you were generally sent on a message, sometimes were required to sing a song, and occasionally had something thrown at you. But this sort of play was due to the high spirits of the upper boys, and had no immediate connection with fagging. When our masters were punishing us for small omissions, they would sometimes cheer us by telling us how much more severe were the sufferings they had themselves endured. Some of them could just remember 22 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. when cricket fagginj^ (still continued at Harrow) was common at Eton, and was an intolerable in- fliction. It seems to have included bowling, and not only did the fifth form intercept and impress lower boys coming out of school, but their fellow fags were employed to lay in w'ait for them and entrap them by various pretences. Twenty years previous to this, when the upper boys drove gigs, they gave their fags, whom they employed as tigers, considerable trouble. Earlier still, the boys had to steal other fellows' rolls for their masters' breakfasts, and one, who had been fag of the future Wellington, told me that the chief service he had to perform was that of a bed-warmer, for the fifth form then made the lower boys lie for a time in their beds to take off the chill. Fagging in these irksome forms did not exist in my day. Two or three times I was sent for beer, and once punished for letting a bottle drop ; and an unlucky boy had sometimes to attend at fives, then only played against the church wall. The system seems to have been caused by the paucity of servants, and the duties are being always more and more delegated to them. The Poets' Walk attendance is now performed by a paid person. But I think that fagging, like many other trials, was finally productive of good fruit. DISCOVERIES. 23 It not only taught us to clean knives, lay tables, and do a little cooking, but, what was more im- portant, it knocked out some vanity, and made us considerate to servants, and less sensitive to small injuries and insults. Before I had been many days at the school I had made two extraordinary discoveries. One was that Eton boys had no papas or mammas. On the day after my arrival I found Jones and Vere throwing my nightcaps out of the window, and called out to them not to do so, as my mamma had told me to wear them. Never shall I forget the burst of laughter with which that announce- ment was received. The only thing more ridiculous than wearing a nightcap was having a ' mamma.'* Thompson, who was good-natured, spoke to me afterwards about it gravely and as a friend. An Eton boy, he said, had no ' mamma,' but a ' mother,' ' mater,' or ' maternity.' I might take my choice. And the corresponding terms were used instead of ' papa '; ' governor ' was not used. But the second discovery was more startling — there were no boys at Eton ! As soon as the smallest atom had his name registered on the * At this time nightcaps had not been many years dis- carded in the school, and papa and mamma were household words. 24 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. headmasters books he was constituted there and then a 'fellah.' This designation, it must be understood, had no reference to Egyptian bond- age, but was the superlative form of ' fellow,' synonymous with 'good fellow,' and signified that its happy possessor had all the best qualities im- plied by the latter and many more besides. The distinction made by the epitaph, ' Here lies a fellow of no notoriety. Not even a fellow of the Royal Society,' would not have been here allowed. These changes in style appeared to me some- what dignified, but in another matter I was sadly disappointed. I had always looked forward to being an ' Etonian ' ; there was something melo- dious and classical in the appellation. To my dismay I now found that there was no such being, and that the term, like the corresponding ' Oxonian,' was only fit to be used by tailors and shoemakers. My next discovery was — with all deference to the headmaster and provost be it spoken — that the real autocrat of Eton (at least, of the lower boys) was — the pieman. He was a pleasant per- sonage to behold, of sleek aspect and apple-red face, and had he lived in olden days his contour might have done credit to some pious fraternity. THE WALL. 25 Oiliness was his characteristic. It seemed to have mounted from his smile into his hat, and I agree in the calculation that if the latter had been boiled down it would have produced a pint of grease. But though its brim was broad enough for a Quaker, he wore it on the side of his head, and assumed a jaunty air much out of keeping with his porcine proportions. There was something very remarkable about this man ; a haze of mystery seemed to surround him. His name could not be found in any direc- tory, and many boys confidently affirmed that no one knew who he was or whence he came. Some believed he was a man of fortune who had an eccentric fancy for selling pies ; but he was generally considered to be entirely different from any other created being. The machine which he carried on his arm bore, like himself, a double character. It was a square tin box with legs underneath and a handle above, and of so con- venient a height that, while it served as a re- ceptacle for ' turts ' and other juvenile delicacies, it also answered as a seat on which the owner could rest himself and keep the contents warm. This genius was the centre of Eton in more than a metaphorical sense, for he took up his position at an entrance near the school-gate. c6 VERT DE VERTS ETON DAYS. which most boys had to pass once, and many half a dozen times, in the day ; and here not a few would linger on their way, and cluster like bees round a honey-pot, listening to the soft sentences which fell from his oracular lips. To them he was the ' censor morum ct elegantiarum ' from whose decision there was no appeal. Some- times in his conversational lectures he w^ould astonish his audience with scraps of verse, and when some little boy, unable to restrain his ad- miration, would exclaim, ' Why, Spankie, you're a poet !' he invariably received the metrical rejoinder, ' Sir, I know it.' One of the quota- tions of which he was fond, perhaps because id related to his own line of business, was — ' Maid of Hatton's ere we part, Give me one more cherry tart,' referring to the shop of a Mrs. Hatton, in which some boys spent a considerable portion of their time. He was very fond of repetitions and dis- connected aphorisms, which enabled him to keep up his stream of talk. When a pause occurred he would ask, without any special relevancy, ' Which do you prefer, sir, stripes or checks ?' or, if he espied a boy in a loud pair of ' bags,' he would exclaim, ' Neat, but not gaudy ; showy, but not expensive.' THE WALL. 17 But the most prominent and, in those days, the most refreshing trait in Spankie's character was his reverence for rank. He had a wonderful knowledge of Burke's ' Peerage,' and of the pedi- grees and family connections of the nobility. The place where he daily took up his position was exactly opposite the most aristocratic house in the school, to whose windows he could lift his admiring gaze and imagine that he could see ' mi- lord ' changing his noble trousers after football, or honouring with his spoon a pot of jam which. he had been allowed the privilege of sending him. The distance at which he could see a nobleman coming was almost incredible. Often was some learned effusion with which he was charming the listening throng brought to a sudden termination by ' Good-morning, my lord,' or by a reverential silence announcing that a marquis had dawned on his happy eyes. But for the scions of com- mercial houses, however rich they might be, he entertained small respect. Sometimes he would direct our attention in the following manner to a boy whom he perceived approaching : ' Is that you, my little Burton ? Hope you're getting on in your studies, sar. I know one of your public-houses in the Isle of Wight, sar. Your beer is very much liked, sar. You don't 28 VERT J)E VERT'S ETON DA YS. put rat's-bane in it, as some do. Saw a coal- porter, last time I was there, wavin.i]^ a pewter- pot and calling out, "Three cheers for Burton's ale !" Did indeed, sar.' 'Who is that, sar? That's Mr. Snookson. They're great cotton manufacturers. Very re- spectable people, sar, in their way — oh, very ! Never heard nothing at all against them. I believe it's a good concern. The3''re not in a small way, you know, sar — oh dear no !' ■ But when a boy of still lower origin was pre- sented to his view he was unable to control his feelings. There were two or three sons of rich tradesmen at Eton, and he seemed to think that no such ill-conditioned progeny had a right to come ' Betwixt the wind and his nobility,' and took every opportunity of publicly expressing his sentiments. ' Good-marning, sar,' he would say with mock politeness, calling general attention to his victim. ' Glad to see you back, sar. Called at your estab- lishment in the vacation ; bought some pocket- handkerchiefs there. Yery reasonable, sar — six shillings a dozen ; but I don't find them wash well. Would you like to see one, sar ? Oh, I can show it you ; got one in my pocket.' I need not say that the boy addressed did not THE WALL. 29 want to see or hear anything more, but made his escape as quickly as possible amid much laughter. But although Spankie was a poet and a courtier, he never allowed sentiment to interfere with busi- ness. His commodities did not lose for want of recommendation. Did }ou but ask for a bottle of ginger-beer, he inquired whether you meant champagne, observing that what he sold was called ginger-beer, but was really champagne. Nor did he in his own case despise the profits of trade. His acuteness in deciding who could be trusted and allowed to run up ' ticks,' and who was, on the contrary, ' a bad sort,' was beyond all admiration. He kept an account-book by him for making entries, and was so constantly stud}'- ing this favourite literature that his little cus- tomers grew suspicious, and surmised that he was adding tails to the noughts. I believe he had almost raised ' chousing ' into a fine art. When I returned after my first vacation he brought me in a bill for five times more than I owed him, and from what Mr. Richards says he did not improve afterwards. It required a hardened reprobate to defraud Spankie. Few could resist any of his demands. As soon as his account was presented he allowed no peace till it was paid. Every time his victim passed into 30 VERT DE VERT S ETON DAYS. school it was * Good morning, sar. Got it about you, sar?' or 'Good evening, sar. Did you say 30U had it now, sar ?' This, repeated about six times a day, wore out the patience of the most incorrigible. Some little boys, however, have an amazing power of opposition ; and I remember on one occasion when Spankie, exasperated and for- getful of his dignity, followed one of these upstairs into his dame's house, he received payment in kind by having one of his own pots of jam broken on his head. Spankie accumulated a considerable amount of money, became an owner of houses, and his real name of Le Marchant was as suitable as it was euphonious. But even the great Spankie was not exempt from the cares of life. He had an enterprising rival, soft and portly as himself, and provided with a much more formidable engine of destruc- tion. At three o'clock every day something like a huge barrow with two wheels was seen ap- proaching the school-wall, beside which it was soon opened, and — oh, wondrous display ! — what an aggravating variety of delights saluted the bewildered senses. Here were grapes, raisins, oranges, cakes, all sorts of biscuits, ices in summer, sausage-rolls THE WALL. 31 and oyster-patties in winter. But the highest heaven was a ' strawberry mess,' composed of fresh fruit beaten up with iced cream and sugar. On this bright revelation being opened some immediately made their choice and ' fell to,' while others who had been extravagant or were not so well provided with ' tin ' stood round and beheld them with mingled admiration and misery. Never did counsel regard woolsack, or curate crozier, with half such longing as these little bankrupts did the contents of that magic wagonette. Sometimes their feelings overcame them, and they gave way to doleful appeals, such as, ' I say, Bryant, you might as well tick me some grapes ;' or, ' Come, Wilton, sock me half an ice ; I know you're a brick,' but generally in vain. The dispenser of this tantalising store was a good-natured, commonplace man, without the romance or astuteness of Spankie, and was more frequently imposed upon by his young cus- tomers. Yet could he sometimes show skill and business qualities ; and when a little * fellah ' would complain that he had given him but a small pennyworth of preserve in his jam-bun, he would evince the amiability of his intentions by saying : ' I was afraid it might disagree with you, sir.' CHAPTER II. ' Trials ' — Masters — Hoaxing. My tutor informed me, about a month after my arrival, that I should have shortly to pass a regular examination. Few boys, even of those best pre- pared, relish such a prospect, and I, being some- what ' shak}',' felt especially nervous. When the awful morning arrived I repaired with the rest of my fellow-sufferers to the well-known bookseller's, where a smiling gentleman, whose comfortable appearance seemed to mock our miser}^, supplied us, much to his satisfaction, with pens, paper, and a pocket ink-bottle. He also handed to each a paper of printed instructions, principally con- cerning unimportant matters, but concluding with the grand statement, ' A few good verses are worth much, and many good verses are worth more ; but many bad verses are worth nothing,' which certainly betrayed lamentable ignorance of the value of poetry at the present day. An examination is never a pleasant experience, ' trials: 33 and this one proved no exception to the rule. Those who had been idle or negligent were, of course, in dire distress, while the rest were worried by their importunities. The first day was principally for writing verses, and ' Give us a three-syllabled word for " place," ' ' What's the Latin for " seat " ?' and such-like questions, varied with ' I'll give you a licking when we come out,' might be heard at intervals around ; but the masters by walking up and down caused the fusilade to be somewhat irregular. Some of the boys' papers, from repeated scratchings, cross- ings, and interpolations, more resembled pictures or pieces of music than exercises. We all in our division greatly dreaded our being moved up to Mr. Birch. He had a character for severity. This was no doubt partly due to his name, and partly to his keen, aquiline coun- tenance and the extreme precision of his dress and manner. It was felt that he would not over- look spot or wrinkle. But we did not find him such a dragon as we expected, though we had to be more careful than heretofore with our lessons. There must have been some secret magic about him, for he managed to draw nearly all the noble- men at the school into his house, through some of whom he eventually became tutor to the Prince 3 34 VERT DE VERTS ETON DAYS. of Wales. When we went up to the circus at Windsor the clown's standinj:,^ joke was, ' Now, if you don't behave yourself, I'll treat you as they do the Prince of Wales — I'll have 3'ou birched T Life is a series of disenchantments. In how many respects had my childish ideas altered be- fore I had been a year at Eton ! I had imagined, among other things, that men holding the high position of Eton masters would be superior to any other body in the world ; that those whose duties and whose caps and gowns were similarly awful, would be in every respect a band of brothers, cast in the same mould of unapproachable per- fection. How different was the reality ! I was so much surprised that I almost came to the conclusion that they had more peculiarities than any of the same class located within so small a space. They exhibited every phase and degree of kindness and coldness, of ability and irritability. One was sensitive, and thought nothing could prevent a boy from learning his lesson but a malicious desire to offer him a personal affront. Another was magniloquent, liked to hear himself better than anyone else, and visited inattention with pro- portionate severity. I remember on one occasion when a master of this latter type had been making iM ASTERS. 35 a long oration, to which as usual no one had been listening, he suddenly turned upon me and de- manded sharply whether I understood what he had been saying. Fearful of a tedious repetition, I answered in the affirmative. ' Then draw your conclusions,' was his summary and convicting reply. Some masters who were deep and knowing had in the practice of their vocation acquired powers which appeared almost supernatural. They would close their eyes and relapse into apparent un- consciousness, but at the same time, if any little boy attempted to misconduct himself during this apparent interval of oblivion, he was as sure to be swished as he was to have mutton for his dinner. But what surprised me most was that the masters did not agree in their criticisms of translations and exercises. If you used a word suggested by one master another would some- times take exception to it. I remember a curious instance of this variance of opinion. One of the masters nearly re-wrote a copy of verses for a pet pupil whom he wished to put forward. The master to whom the boy went with these borrowed plumes thought the lines indifferent, but sent the boy up for good for a copy he had done himself. 3—2 36 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. Schoolmasters have not much changed since the time when Goldsmith wrote : ' Full well they laughed, with counterfeited glee, At all his jokes, for many a joke had he,' In all ages they have sought by humorous sallies to relieve the monotony of their labours. So it was at Eton. The clever, industrious boys generally listened to such pleasantries with contempt, the ' swells ' with a polite smile, but the dunces set up a roar of laughter, which could not be extinguished until they had been severely called to order. They thought this advantageous in two respects, as curtailing the lesson, and also obtaining the master's goodwill. I am bound to say that the jokes were never of a broad or objectionable character ; indeed, they were in general remark- ably innocuous. And here, as in duty bound, let me pay a passing tribute to the memory of Cookesley, most learned,- genial, and jocose of masters. Whether I regard his appearance or his tastes, I say, * This was a Roman.' He was not tall, but strongly knit, his features were finely-chiselled, and above his smooth face his light hair ran wild in a profusion of small curls. The stiff clerical garb seemed out of place on him, but he was perfection 3IY TUTOR. ■ 37 in his usual loose dressing-gown and slippers, and had he been seen in his pupil-room by his friend Dickens, I am sure he would have formed the subject of some delicious episode. As a mimic he was exquisite, and it was said that once at a party, when Dr. Hawtrey entered, he heard to his astonishment his own voice at the other end of the room. This was dangerous, but Cookesley's love of humour was irrepressible. He had nicknames for us all, and the vivacity of the tutor spread to the pupils, in a manner not always perhaps profitable to the Muses. He would carry on his evening work somewhat in the follow- ing fashion : A stupid-looking boy would present himself at the desk with a copy in his hand : ' Well, Lively !' he would say, ' is that you ? Have you saddled your Pegasus ? Are those your verses ?' * Yes, sir.' After glancing over them, Cookesley would regard him with a comical eye, and demand : ' Is this your highest strain ?' Presently an Irish nobleman's son, whom he called ' Paddy,' would come up with a face wreathed in smiles. ' An' is it yourself I see, Paddy ?' asks my tutor. 38 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. ' Pray has yer honour brought me the small change of those dirivations ?' ' No, sir ; I have not finished them.' * You're a broth of a boy, Paddy. Can you tell me where Ballyraggin is ?' ' No, sir.' ' P^aith, thin, ye don't know as much of your own counthry as I do myself.' Even the punishments he inflicted were more humorous than severe. He kept in his desk an old riding-whip, the top of which had been worn off in the service. This he called the ' Doctor,' and when he saw any boj' inattentive, he would pass round and give him a cut across the shoulders. Sometimes he would seize the culprit by the collar and belabour him with such \-igour and mimicry as greatly increased the evil he sought to remedy, the boy shouting out, ' Oh, sir — no, sir — please, sir — I wasn't, sir — Pll take my dick, sir — Fll take my davy, sir ' — while the rest laughed heartily. But I must add that to the head boys, who were above the pupil-room, he was sufficiently serious, and those who gave attention learned much that was valuable ; for he was the best Greek scholar at Eton, edited Pindar, and wrote a ' Topography of Rome ;' and although some of his pupils irreverently called him ' Mad Moses,' I never, THE PROVOST. 39 in after life, met with one of them who did not remember him with affection. In the days of which I am writing Dr. Hodgson was provost — a man best known as a friend of Byron. That his temperament was genial may be concluded from the poet's having addressed to him the frolicsome verses beginning, ' Huzza Hodgson ! we are going.' He was short and stout, but good-looking, and the best sermons we heard were from him ; in- deed, the other preachers (superannuated masters) were particularly dry in the ' wood.' The old usages were so far observed at this time that when the provosts of King's and Eton met, they were accustomed to salute each other with a holy kiss. The headmaster, Dr. Hawtrey, was very popular in the school. He was a prince among school- masters ; not only learned, but urbane and dignified. Whatever a boy said he professed, if possible, to believe, and although his confidence was often misplaced, this course had a salutary effect in exhibiting and cultivating a gentlemanly spirit. At the same time his very figure was a caution to evil-doers, for he had a droop in his right shoulder which was supposed to have come from a frequent and vigorous use of the birch. 40 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. Among the lower boys he was generally called ' Plug,' from some peculiarity in his countenance, but the swells, by w^ay of refinement, reversed the name and used ' Gulp ' instead. The same kind of satirical humour led to their ungallantly christening his two old sisters ' Elcphantma ' and ' Rhinocerina.' These ladies had a sedan chair, in which they went to parties in the neighbour- hood, and it was the last vehicle of the kind I saw used. The Duke of Cambridge died from the effects of a cold taken at Eton. I remember seeing him on this unfortunate occasion. He attended church and repeated the responses in a very loud voice, but not always quite in the right place. It is well-known that he was one of the old school, and used the expletives fashionable in his youth to such an extent as to congratulate a clergyman upon having preached * a d d fine sermon.' Most amusing was it to observe him walking about the school and playing-fields with Dr. Hawtrey, who, as an accomplished courtier, kept an obsequious smile on his countenance while listening to the Duke's jocosities. A small friend of mine had to go to Hawtrey at this time about some school business, and the Duke, eying him, said : EXTRA MASTERS. 41 ' Now, I dare say that little fellow's a regular pickle.' ' Oh, no,' repHed the doctor blandly. ' Heth a vethy good little boy.' ' Well, but,' continued -the Duke, ' I think every boy ought to be a pickle. I know I was a rare one myself.' The curriculum at Eton at this time was entirely classical and mostly poetical. But other subjects could be learned; and thus, besides the regular masters, whose sway was acknowledged by ever}- boy in the school, there came to be an ambiguous class styled ' extra ' masters. These despised men were permitted to take those who liked to be taught and charged, but had no means of enforcing discipline, inasmuch as, however irritated they might be, they had no right to ' complain ' to the doctor. That the professor of dancing and modern languages should be con- demned to these lower realms seemed nothing wonderful, but I was certainly astonished to find the mathematical master among the shades. This last was a particularly good-natured man — Stephen Hawtrey — and presided in a round, theatrical- looking building, which some called the ' Station House.' Those boys whose parents desired it were entered on the books of this establishment. 42 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. but the time spent at it was one rather of recrea- tion than of study. A pleasant change was some- times made by turning off the gas, or by letting off squibs and crackers in November, which was a particularly merry season. The unfortunate master did not receive much sympathy or com- miseration from his classical superiors, but was rather looked upon by some as an interloper and enemy to versification, and I remember hearing my tutor remark, with reference to his genial manner, that ' a cap and bells would be better suited to him than a cap and gown.' I may observe here that gas was not at this time used in the regular schoolrooms. They were illuminated, as were our private rooms, with melancholy 'dips.' In the winter evenings, at five o'clock school, the light would become gradually dimmer, long ' cabbages ' having grown on the wicks, and the master would at last call out, ' Spratt minor, snuff the candles.' The thus appointed official then assumed the black snuffers, but took care not to hurry himself over his task, because, during its performance, he could not be called upon to go on with his lesson, and he knew that the interruption was agreeable to all. When I had been a 3'ear at the school I passed another examination, and as I had 'SAPS: 43 been fairly industrious, rose considerably in my division. In a class of about sixty boys the golden or middle part was composed of such as were moderately gifted wath industry and intelli- gence, Vv'hile the extremes formed a ludicrous contrast to one another. The head boys were generally of weakly physique, and rarely joined much in the games, but took ' constitutionals,' and devoted themselves assiduously to reading. i\Iany of them made their desire for distinction unpleasantly prominent ; wrote exercises two or three times as long as were required, and were thought to raise the standard of require- ments. Some of them had great powers of memor}-. On tvvo mornings in the week forty lines, and on two seventy of Latin or Greek, had to be recited, and there were boys who could repeat wherever they had to go on, without missing a word, although they had only read over the lesson three or four times. Such brilliant gifts did not increase their popularity in the school, and they were generally stigmatised as ' saps ' and ' swinks,' the grain being thus literally among the chaff. At the other or ' lag ' end of the class came a widely different community, whose mental de- crepitude was almost grotesque. They were fortunately, for the most part, boys of good ex- 44 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. pcctations, who were never likely to be dependent upon their own exertions. A great incentive to labour is wanting to such as are born to fortune, and they are almost as much to be pitied as blamed. There are more such boys at Eton than in most schools, and I feel certain that they make as much progress there as they would anywhere else. The birch is the only cogent argument that can urge such loiterers along what is not to them the flowery path of knowledge ; and some whose parents took them away and sent them to private tutors confessed to me afterwards that they never learned anything after leaving Eton. The only attention this ' idle progeny ' paid the ' saps ' was the unpleasant one of forcing them to write verses for them, and I remember my tutor having ' nailed ' one of them because, in the depth of his ignorance, he had copied urhh as nohh. In the lessons by rote these boys were ' nowhere,' and after having been variously punished would be finally let off with half the regular amount, which they managed to stumble through with much contemptuous assistance from the master. Examinations were the bugbears of these lotus- eaters. The)' were to them in every sense both skeletons and ' trials,' as they were called, but were avoided as much as possible. I well re- 'trials: 45 member Dr. Hawtrey's saying, after reading over the results of an examination : ' Dawdle was absent, being unwell.' A roar of laughter greeted this announcement, which was redoubled when the doctor looked round with admirable gravity and said, with his dulcet lisp : * I donth know why you thould laugh. I thuppose be wath vethy ill.' But perhaps the doctor was right, for the prospect of an examination would have made him very ill. One day I met a genius of this sort going in to trials, and said to him rather mali- ciously : ' Well, Lounger, how are you up in your geography ?' ' I'm afraid I don't know much about it,' he replied ; ' but I'm well up in my topography,' he added cheerfully, opening his coat. ' Right waist- coat pocket, Greek verbs ; left waistcoat-pocket, list of dates ; breast-pocket, crib to Horace ; right tail pocket, crib to Virgil ; left tail pocket, crib to Homer. I think I'm all right.' I afterwards met this boy, who had gone in so heavily armed to the encounter, and asked him how he had succeeded. ' Oh, very badly,' he replied. ' I had to show 46 VERT DE VERTS ETON DAYS. up a blank paper. The brutes had not given the references to the pieces to be translated, and I spent my whole time searching for them in the cribs and could not find one of them.' Another day I met a friend coming out of an examination with a face full of care. * \\'ell, Blanque,' I inquired, ' how have you done ? Polished them off?' ' No,' he replied, in a mournful tone ; ' I'm afraid not. I've made several mulls.' * Big ones ?' I ventured. ' I'm afraid so. However,' he added, brighten- ing up, * I've answered one question right.' * Well, that's something,' I said, to console him. * How many were there ?' ' Twelve.' ' You've one right, at all events,' I continued. ' What was it ?' ' The distance of the earth from the sun.' ' Well, what did you put ?' * Ninety miles.' ' Not ninety millions ?' ' No ; ninety miles. I know that's all right, because I heard a fellah in front of me say so.' Such delicious ignorance as this was not to be met with every day, but good stories were con- • pickles: 47 stantly in circulation about the wide shots of some of these gifted sons of luxury. There was one boy in our division who for some time sorely puzzled me. He was nearly twice as big as any of the rest, and held no communica- tion with us ; indeed, he seemed to regard us with the most ineffable contempt. At first I conceived that he was a private friend of the master, with whom he seemed to be frequently in conversation and consultation, but I afterwards discovered that he was a boy who had been turned down for mis- conduct from a higher class in the school. One would have supposed that to some boys Eton must have appeared an approximation to the nether regions, for it was to them a place of perpetual punishment. They were generally in hot water, and many a good lecture they re- ceived. They were turned up and turned down, but there were faults on all sides, and their ad- ventures, misadventures, and subterfuges might have filled amusing volumes. Notwithstanding all this, there was so much of the hon diahle about them that they seemed more jolly than miserable. At Eton, as in other schools, a few of the little boys were of a very unamiable disposition. Banter and sarcasm and worrying their com- panions was their chief delight. They were 48 VERT DE VERT'S E TON DA YS. generally, in some way, inferior themselves, and tried thus to revenge themselves upon societ}-. Their victims were boys who were too good- natured or timid to retaliate, and they sometimes reminded one of little curs barking at the heels of a Newfoundland. It was the height of their good fortune if they could hit upon some peculiarity or sensitive point in a schoolfellow. They then gave him no peace, and the more he suffered the greater their enjoyment. In some cases this had a good result in correcting eccentricities ; but it caused many who were sensitive to look back upon their Eton life without much pleasure. This kind of petty persecution was carried on almost exclusively by the smaller boys ; very few of the ' big levy ' were guilty of it, and the ' swells ' dis- countenanced it. It was a great gratification to the little mis- creants above-mentioned when new boys arrived upon whom they could impose. I suffered on several occasions from their industry in this direction. One instance at present occurs to m^e. The stained east window in the church was erected soon after I went to the school, and a collection was made for it among the boys. A boy who had hoaxed me on two or three occasions said one day to me sardonically : HOAXING. 49 ' I say, Vert, you'll have to stump up five shillings for the window.' ' Another imposition,' thought I, and replied warily : ' No ; I don't think that I shall give more than two and sixpence.' Next day the little urchin brought up the subject again, and said : ' The captain of the house wants the subscrip- tions for the window. You must go and give him 3'our half-crown without delay.' I hesitated again, having grown suspicious. However, some of the other lower boys corrobo- rated what he said, and asserted that I should be left out of the list and spited in various ways if I did not pay at once. So I went to the captain's room. I found him reading at his bureau. ' I have come,' I said timidly, * to bring my subscription to the window — two and sixpence.' He turned round and regarded me in a peculiar and somewhat cynical manner, and then replied dubiously : ' Oh, very well ; I'll accept it.' His tone seemed that of one conferring a favour. I knew, of course, that the captain of the house was a great personage, and would not act like ordinary people. But still, I was surprised at 4 so VERT DE VERrS ETON DA YS. this way of receiving:,' a subscription. As soon, however, as I left the room I was enhghtened, for I found nearly all the lower boys in the house were collected outside, and greeted me with a burst of laughter. They were in ecstasies ; said I had made a regular fool of myself, that no one gave less than five shillings ; that I should be sent in on a paper by myself, and that all kinds of misfortunes would follow. This made me feel perfectly miserable, and having ascertained that the lowest' sum to be subscribed was five shillings, I next day took the remaining two and sixpence to the captain, who received it with thanks, observing kindly * that it was not in the least compulsory.' A remarkable instance of this hoaxing occurred just before I went to Eton. A little boy lately come was describing with pardonable pride some of his exploits at home, and especially relating how he shot a yellow-hammer. One of the lis- teners, filled with envy at such a sporting success, immediately exclaimed : * Shot a yellow-hammer ! You'll get into a fine row. Don't you know that all the yellow- hammers in the country belong to the Duke of Wellington ?' The boy said he had not been aware of that HOAXING. 51 fact or he should not have done it. And the other, seeing that he was much perturbed, per- sisted still further, and drew a dreadful picture of all the consequences which would ensue. * But the Duke of Wellington will never hear anything about it,' urged the boy. ' Oh yes he will,' continued his tormentor. ' And, moreover, I shall think it my duty to write to inform him.' The new boy was now thoroughly alarmed, and still more so next day when the other told him that he had written on the subject to the Duke, and that no doubt an officer would be sent down next day to arrest him. The little fellow scarcely knew what to do ; he asked whether he should tell his tutor ; but that, they said, would be of no use. The best course would be to make a clean breast of it, to write a letter to the Duke expressing sorrow for having killed one of his yellow-hammers, and asking for- giveness. The boy accordingly wrote to the Duke, not exactly as had been suggested, but asking whether he had received a letter from informing him that he had been guilty of shooting one of his grace's yellow-hammers. The Duke must have been amused, and per- 4—2 52 VERT DE VERrS ETON DA VS. haps reminded of his Eton days. But he was punctilious about sending answers ; and so in two or three days a large letter arrived with a great red seal, in which the little dupe expected to find some terrible announcement. But, when opened, all it contained was that Field-Marshal the Duke of Wellington had not received any such letter as that indicated by the inquirer. The hoax was retailed to the boy's tutor, who was so much amused that he purchased the letter for five shillings, and the boy, as he bought tart- lets therewith, might well have exclaimed in the words of the Eton poet — ' Where ignorance is bliss, 'Tis folly to be wise.' CHAPTER III. Swells. — Games. — The Boats. There is something refreshing in the contempla- tion of Eton, and of school life generally, inas- much as we see in it exactly the opposite of what exists in the civilized world. Rank, money, and learning count for little or nothing. If the Greek language was not well studied at Eton, Greek feeling was admirably represented there in the honour paid to athletes, and the truly Homeric triumph of physical force. The whole effect was old classic, if not barbaric. A tall muscular figure and handsome appear- ance was as necessary for a ' swell ' at Eton as it is for an Indian chief. Ill-looking or ill-made fellows were never much esteemed, no matter what their other qualifications. The swells were, moreover, a jovial set, distinguished in the sports and games, especially in rowing. All stood high in the school, but for variety they admitted into 54 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. their charmed circle a few younger but not 'lower' boys remarkable for their good appearance and sociability. Swells never consorted with lower boys, nor with mere bookworms. They regarded the latter, as it has been well observed, with * affectionate contempt,' that is, they knew enough of the great world to feel a certain respect for them, but thought it somewhat beneath their dignity to associate with them. Eton is in the minds of some associated with fighting. Considering the size of the school, I thought there was no excess of pugilism. But what there was of it, it was in earnest. "Wherever boys are, some will be impudent and bellicose, and more will be determined to maintain their rights ; and at Eton ' blue blood " may have given unusual perseverance to combatants. What sur- prised me at first was that when two boys had a quarrel, instead of settling differences on the spot, they ceremoniously fixed, as in the times of chivalry and duelling, a place and hour for a hostile meeting — a custom not so advantageous to themselves as to their friends, who wished to see the fools perform. The place chosen was a part of the playing-grounds called ' sixpenny,' and the time immediately after dinner. These appoint- ments seemed most unsuitable. The antagonists MILLS. 55 would scarcely be in good breath immediately after a meal, and the spot was so public that the combat might easily be stopped. But the ground was consecrated or desecrated by old tradition and a long series of conflicts. Here Wellington had fought his first battle ; here the poet Shelley had tried his hand at colouring. In the period in which Waterloo was fought, the combats were fierce and frequent ; there was one nearly every day, and so persevering were they in their pug- nacity that there is a case on record of two boys rising at six in the morning to begin the conflict, and sparring away for three hours ! The regular time for these ' settlements ' was then after the early morning lesson. In 1825 the Hon. F. Ashley Cooper died after a fight, but this accident is said to have been owing to a breach of the old rule, and the battle taking place in the school-yard, the unfortunate boy's head came against a stone. There was much less pugnacity in my time, and the combatants were not the bigger boys ; indeed, the sixth form were bound to put down such pro-: ceedings, but they seldom or never interfered. When an event was coming off, the report speedily circulated, and there was generally a considerable number of spectators round the ring. 56 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA VS. Many rounds were sometimes fought, and wonder- ful persistency was exhibited. Those were the days of the prize-ring ; some of the older people could remember the ' Corinthians' in high renown, and a man who had seen many such engagements told me that he had seldom seen more pluck exhibited than in some of these little encounters at Eton. I never heard of anyone being seriously injured at them in my time, but remember one boy, whose determination was greater than his strength, having been carried off the ground fainting, and not appearing in school for several days. Hostile feelings seemed to be relieved after these contests, and the combatants became better friends than they had been previously. The foot-races, and especially the three-mile steeplechase, with its almost impossible jumps and immersions, were a source of considerable interest just before Easter, but the winter games were football and hockey. The latter held its ground when I first went to Eton, and was patronized by many of the swells. There was then a tradition, which still seems to exist, that it had been from time to time forbidden as dangerous ; but I played it there for five years without either injury or any reprimand. The sticks were not rough, but smoothed and artificially bent, with HOCKEY. 57 blades about a foot long. There were two clubs, called upper and lower hockey; but football gradually superseded it, and the game entirely disappeared about the year 1853. With regard to the prohibition, a writer* mentions (in 1832) hockey and football as the chief winter games at Eton, and says that more came away * hobbling ' from the latter than from the former, but speaks further on of a boy having in his room 'an illegal hockey-stick.' He observes that this fine old game had died out in England, except at Eton and Sandhurst, and adds quaintly, ' It is one of the most elegant and gentlemanly exercises, being susceptible of very graceful attitudes, and re- quiring great speed of foot.' At this time quoits were played, but were losing favour, and marbles, hoops and peg-tops had disappeared. As football became more general, the contests at it grew fiercer, and in the season two or three collar-bones and a leg would be broken. Every house now had its game and eleven, but the chief interest centred in that played by the older boys at the wall. This was entirely different from the contest in the field, as there was no running, and it consisted entirely in pushing or ' rouging.' * Hon. G. W. (Lord) Lyttleton in the Eton Co He (^e Maga- zine. 58 VERT DE VERTS ETON DAYS. The annual match between collegers and op- pidans took place by old custom at the wall.* The boys who played cricket were at this time comparatively few, and many of them were collegers. They were despised by their boating schoolfellows, who called them ' dry-bobs,' and there seemed to be as much difference between them and the * wet-bobs ' as exists between a dry Quaker and a wet one. The character of cricket was mainly supported by the * tent ' matches which took place annually with the Marylebone and other clubs, and especially by the Lords' matches, then played not only with Harrow but also with Winchester. Boys who thus publicly maintained the honour of the school could not be altogether overlooked, and as a matter of courtesy the eleven was allowed to rank next to the eight ; but in the opinion of the majority there was a great gulf between them. The river was gener- ally preferred to the playing-fields. It seemed cooler and more refreshing in the summer, and also gave more exercise. Small distinctions could there be easier obtained, and aquatic heroes were necessarily endowed with that strength of * In the 'Eton Bureau,' 1842, we find complaints about the rough way in which football was played, some boys having nails in their shoes. COLLEGERS. 59 muscle which was so much esteemed at Eton, while cricketers might be comparatively feeble. I am not sure whether the contempt in which collegers were held was not connected with their ' dry-bobbing ' propensities, or whether cricket suffered for being connected with them. At this time they were not allowed to enter the eights on account of the expense. The lower boys called them * tugs,' or ' tug-muttons,' from their gowns (toga), and from the fact that they had been almost up to this time fed entirely on mutton.* But no doubt their original sin was that they came from a lower grade in society, and although none but boys of good ability were chosen, there was not yet any open competition. The older oppidans were above these prejudices, and sometimes were in- vited to go with the collegers to * bever ' — bread and cheese and beer at five o'clock — the only survival I have met with of that very ancient refreshment. The rivalry between collegers and oppidans was kept up by the annual matches at cricket and football ; and when snow fell, a furious combat raged, in which both sides were considerably ' beautified.' It may seem strange that seventy boys could face six hundred, but some of the * Some despicable wag said this made them 'sheepish.' 6o VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. biggest boys in the school were collegers, as they were not superannuated until they were nineteen. It was always a rule that the captain of the boats should play in the cricket match against the collegers, and great mirth was sometimes caused by the mulls the aquatic hero made on this occasion. The rowing-boys formed the majority of the school, and were a distinct community from the cricketers. In the summer the river swarmed with them in all kinds of skiffs, tubs, punts, and ' pair-oars,' and the most skilful were promoted into the ' boats,' properly so called, which con- sisted of six eights and a * ten-oar.' The Victory was regarded with the greatest admiration as containing the choicest ' oars ' in the school, though the stroke of every boat was an excellent rower. The Monarch (ten-oar) was an old sovereign of the river, and the captain of the boats was her stroke, but otherwise her crew were considered an awkward set. Some of them were luxurious or weakly fellows who had gained a slight knowledge of rowing by paddling about, and were selected for their popularity and sociability. A few were swell * dry-bobs ' or superannuated steerers, to whom the captain allowed this dignified retirement. Thirty years THE BOATS. 6i previously we find this crew selected for their beauty, and rov/ing on the Fourth of June, in the costume of Turkish galley-slaves, chained to their oars. The names of the boats changed slightly from time to time : in 1811 they were the Monarch, Dreadnought, Defiance, Rival, Mars, and Mercury. Before 1828 a waterman rowed stroke of every boat. Great excitement always prevailed in the summer with regard to the ' eight,' that is, the crew se- lected to try conclusions with Westminster. The series of contests with that school commenced in 1829 with one for £100 a side. A regular course of training was always undergone, and the match was the great event of the Eton sporting year. There were races, however, every week in the summer ; the prettiest seemed to me to be the sculling, in which each competitor appeared in his little outrigger dressed in his distinguishing colours. The interest in this race was also more personal than that in one between rival eights. The captain of the boats held such an influential position that the headmaster claimed to have a voice in his election. It was my good, or bad, fortune when I first went to Eton to be fag to this awful personage. He wrote a * Vale ' when leaving — such effusions were then not uncommon, and 62 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. were shown up to the masters — in which he gave a good description of his Eton hfe. I can cor- roborate the truth of his statement — 'The small boys tremble at my nod, And think I am a demi-god.' Further on he said with equal veracity, ' Farewell then to my studies too, Though I must say my knowing Has chiefly been confined unto The principles of rowing.' He was a wonderful fellow. Of course he did nothing like anyone else. He never breakfasted at home, and had his fags to valet him at night. What was more unpleasant to us, he seemed never to have any books, and after breakfast would tell us to go and get him — wherever we liked — a book to take into school. As the conse- quences of failing to carry out any of his orders would have been too terrible to contemplate, we had to rush off to the shops and ask to look over any books that had been left there. We then took possession of such a one as was required, and in this manner kept him supplied. When the lesson was over he would go into some shop and leave his book there. How he learned or said his lessons appeared a mystery, but I supposed he was THE CAPTAIN OF THE BOATS. 63 blessed with some kind of sublime intuition. He never seemed to have a punishment ; indeed, to imagine that he could ever have anything of any- kind would have appeared to us sheer profanity. There was something very jocund about him ; he was constantly singing snatches of nigger melodies, of which his favourite seemed to be, * De boatman dance, de boatman sing, De boatman he do ebery ting.' He had also a vein of humour, but it was slightly too satirical. Sometimes he gave us advice, such as, ' Always think well of yourself, for you may be sure nobody else will.' One day when we brought him a larger dish of sausages than usual, he looked round and said : ' Do you like sausages ?' ' Oh yes,' we replied, hoping that he was going to give us some. ' Then you may see me eat them,' he returned dryly. Sometimes he would amuse himself by throwing things at us. On one occasion when I came into my room, I found him seated there holding the tongs over my dip candle. What project he had formed in his great mind I could not of course conjecture ; but I soon discovered, for he called 64 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA VS. me over, and seized my nose with them. It seems that he had a fancy to see what effect a nigger nose would produce on my countenance. But the candle had made the iron hot as well as black. Inside the tongs there happened to be an ornamented flower engraved, and when he released me this was found burnt into the skin on both sides. Although he could not help feeling amused at this result, he was also evidently alarmed, and begged that I would not think it was intentional. My nose now became a subject of general interest, and I began to think that I should go through the world a marked man ; but it was not to be so, and in a short period my flower faded, and I subsided into my original obscurity. I waited upon this master for some time. He generally breakfasted with the second captain of the boats, an equally fine fellow, and one whom I liked better, as he was less jocose. They are both long dead — one was killed by poachers. CHAPTER IV. An Olden Holiday — The Christopher. As a boy rose in the school, his enjoyment of it greatly increased. He had become accustomed to the lessons, and could prepare them without much difficulty ; sometimes he was going over part of his old work. The masters had grown amiable, and treated him more as a companion than as a pupil. He became captain of his house, and had obsequious fags to carry out all his wishes. It was well if, after passing through the purgatory of the lower world, he was not spoiled for after life by the bliss of the upper regions. Could anything be more delightful than a summer holiday at Eton in these olden times ? There were two such days, sometimes three, every week. First there was a prolonged slumber in bed, nothing being required until a quarter past nine o'clock. Then you sauntered into the school -yard and answered to your name at 5 66 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. * absence.' After this you went to breakfast with some friend, or had a party yourself. Then to church at eleven, and after that, at twelve, you went to your boat on the river, or to cricket in the lovely playing-fields. At two o'clock you returned to dinner, and at half-past two betook yourself to a peculiar institution called ' cellar.' This ' cellar ' was carried on in a house just over Barnes' Bridge, called the ' tap.' It would have brought a flogging to be seen entering it, but there was no danger, as a quick-eyed, portly person stood outside the door, whose business it was to be always looking up and down the street for masters. As you approached the forbidden establishment you always looked at this man, and if he nodded you knew the coast was clear, and entered without fear. Here the sporting affairs of the school were mainly transacted. When you went into the little back parlour you found notices up of such events as were coming off; lists of boys to run in the races, and papers on which competitors were to inscribe their names. There the prizes to be given were exhibited; it seemed, indeed, more a place of public business than of pleasure. At half past two on holidays ' cellar ' was celebrated here. Having received the neces- sary cue from porter, you went up into a fair-sized ' cellar: 67 room on the first floor, where you found a long table laid out, with seats for about twenty. This was a sort of after-dinner entertainment, but was very different from an Oxford 'wine.' On the table were Stilton and other cheeses, salads, cucumbers, radishes, watercress, rusks and butter, and other light refreshments. You had your choice of various strong and light ales, and there was capital cider-cup crowned with borage. At the head of the table sat the captain of the boats, and at the foot the captain of the eleven. The boys present were those of the eight and of the eleven (except such as were collegers) ; but, to make up the number, the presidents always in- vited a few others, who were more or less dis- tinguished on the river or in the playing-fields. The gathering was of the pleasantest character : the boys were all 'jolly good fellows;' the fare, though simple, was good of its kind, it seemed most excellent to us, and perhaps our spirits were the higher because we thought that we were in select and friendly company. But there was generally one boy at the table who looked uncomfortable. He had been invited for the first time : he spoke little, and drank nothing. The fact was, he had to undergo an ordeal — to drink the long glass. At the end of 5—2 68 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. the repast, which lasted about half an hour, the waiter appeared with a large cloth and the afore- said curious vessel. It was wide at the mouth, like a vase, and tapered downwards, till at the bottom it ended in a bulb. Although it was three feet long, the glass did not contain three half- pints. The waiter put a chair at the side of the table, and the victim rose and seated him- self. Then the cloth was deftly fastened round his neck, as if he were going to have his hair cut, and he was asked what kind of ale he would prefer. When he had replied, the glass was filled up and handed to him. He was to drink without stopping, and if this rule was not complied with, the glass was to be refilled, and he was to begin again. Some little care was required to drink successfully, owing to the width of the mouth of the glass and the bulb at the bottom, for when the latter was reached the liquor was apt to rush down over the drinker's face. You might sometimes see it rippling out on both sides of the boy's mouth, and meandering down the white cloth, until it finally trickled out at his coat- tails. If the drinking was well accomplished, the performer was cheered at the conclusion by a round of knocking on the table. Then the church bells were heard ringing, the plate came round, CHURCH MUSIC. 69 on which each placed two shilHngs, and the com- pany, rising, filed out towards the bridge ; I may add that I never saw any one of them the worse for the entertainment. The music at the afternoon service which we then attended was greatly appreciated, and rightly, for at that time the choir from St. George's at Windsor came down to sing for us. Many of the boys joined in the psalms when the chant was easy, and when it was difficult some still would adhere to their favourite tunes, and produce a kind of discordant harmony. But the anthem was listened to by all with great attention, and was a real treat. It tended to form the taste of the boys for classical music ; and after church many would discuss the comparative merits of the choirmen in their performances. After service the boating community went back to the river, and the cricketers to the playing- fields. When there was a boat-race in the evening, the boys belonging to the eights would stop on their way home to drink the winners' healths at the Christopher, and then walked down arm-in-arm until they reached the school, where a crowd had collected. They then * hoisted ' the winners on their shoulders, and carried them along with cheers. 70 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. Once a fortnight, on ' check night,' the upper eights ended the day by regahng themselves with ducks and green peas at Surley, which to boyish appetites appeared a banquet worthy of the gods. The cricketers in * upper club ' had their tea beneath umbrageous trees by the water-side, much to the annoyance of their fags, who waited upon them, and saw nothing romantic in the ' Poets' Walk.' The ordinary refreshments there consisted of merely tea and bread and butter, but ices were sometimes added, and occasionally an old Eton man, who was joining in the game, would stand a little champagne. The boys who thus showed their appreciation of poetical resorts were excused attendance at six o'clock absence. This kind of indulgence to the cricketers was almost traditional. When the light began to fade, towards nine, the houses were locked up, and we began to prepare our seventy lines for the next morning. But a prudent boy would have taken a book or sheet of paper with him, and have done a little work at intervals in the daytime. The Christopher Hotel was within bounds when I first went to Eton, and stood near Barnes Bridge. It was a famous old house, too con- venient for the boys and a great annoyance to the THE CHRISTOPHER. 71 masters. But the landlord could not be dispos- sessed, having a Crown lease. Towards the end of George III.'s reign, and till its disestablish- ment, it was held by the celebrated Garraway, who drove a thriving business. To add to his wickedness and increase his profits, he obtained the services of a fascinating barmaid, and as a consequence, a number of the upper boys, who had scarcely any other woman to speak to, were constantly lounging about the bar. Here they sipped their ale or brandy and water, and laughed and chaffed with Pipylena — a name they gave her on account of a pimple on her cheek. She seems, notwithstanding her smiles, to have been a correct young lady, for an old boy tells us that, although he once managed to snatch a kiss from her, he did not escape receiving a good box on the ear for his impertinence. Some of the richer boys were accustomed to frequent the Christopher on holidays and drink ' bishop,' for which, and for broiled chicken and mushrooms, the house was noted. Many a good dinner the boys had there when their relatives came to visit them. It was the house where all the coaches stopped, and before Hawtrey abolished the Eton Market, there was here a weekly ordinary for farmers, and occasionally a hunt 72 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. dinner, with noise enough to have driven the Muses back to Greece. Nevertheless, the boys frequented the house with foho Virgils under their arms, containing, not immortal verse, but bottles to be replenished from this inspiring Hippocrene.* The festive estabhshment moved in 1845 into the centre of the High Street at Eton, where dreadful school crimes continued to be committed, but they were offences which would have been little noticed in later life. Objections might perhaps have been taken to the indulgence in drinks with such plebeian names as sherry-cobbler and its counterpart port-snob, but who could say that in winter old-fashioned ' bishops ' should be treated with disrespect ? The boys duly honoured the classic Bacchus with such libations, and accompanied them with the incense of the fragrant weed. There was an interval of an hour, from four to five, between two lessons, which, being too short for games, seemed to have been specially set apart for such observances. I never saw any intoxication during this time ; indeed, it would have been discovered, as we had to return immediately to school lessons. * It appears that at one time the assistant-masters were accustomed to meet in a room there. THE CHRISTOPHER. 73 The service of the Christopher was partly per- formed by the landlord's daughters, two ladylike girls, who appeared to us the more divine from their contrast with the waiter, a most dingy and diabolical-looking personage, who went by the name of ' Smut ' or ' Beelzebub.' The boys made a butt of him, but he sometimes turned the tables in more senses than one. I remember on one occasion, when in a fit of extravagance we ordered a second bowl of bishop, and he brought up a smaller quantity than we had before, I said : ' Why, Smut, this is not so large a bowl as the last.' To which he replied : * Same bowl I took down, sir.' On holiday mornings there were generally some parties of boys at breakfast in the Christopher. A convivial meeting also took place there annually after the great football match between collegers and oppidans. At one of these festivals when I was at Eton a raid was made upon the house by the masters. It afterwards transpired that this dark conspiracy had been hatched by the authorities a few days before. My good-natured tutor was invited to join in the expedition, but rephed with characteristic frankness : 74 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. * No ; as long as I can keep myself a gentleman, I'll never consent to be a constable.' When the revelry was at its height, Smut came in with a darker face than usual, bringing the alarming intelligence that several masters were coming down the street. The company were thrown into confusion similar to that which the mice felt when the cat and kittens ' came tumbling in.' Some prepared to escape by the back door ; but before this could be attempted it was found that another detachment of masters had comxe round in that direction. Presently an ominous creaking of boots was heard up the staircase. The landlord's daughter turned off the gas, and all was left in darkness. A stentorian voice was heard crying, ' I require the landlord of this house to provide me with a light.' Meanwhile, one of the masters groped his way to the door of the banqueting-room, and held it so that no one could pass. The future headmaster, Dr. Goodford, now distinguished himself greatly by embracing Smut, whom in the darkness he mistook to be a boy trying to make his escape, till he was rudely un- deceived by a gruff voice grunting out, ' Come, none of this nonsense !' A light was at length procured, and as the boys filed out one by one their names were entered in ' pop: 75 a ' black list.' It must have grieved the souls of the tutors to find among them a few of their choicest scholars. The authorities considered that these old customs should be honoured in the breach, but as the boys were big, and the butcher's bill would have been long, they were only kept back two or three days from the vacation. When the former Christopher Hotel was shut up, part of the building was put to a more quiet use by the Eton Debating Society. This associa- tion was commonly called ' Pop,' from 'popina,' an eating-house. Its original domicile was over the small shop of Mrs. Hatton, the confectioner, and we find that its literary objects did not overcome the boyish love of ' sock,' for at the Saturday four o'clock meetings the proceedings were somewhat delayed by the consumption of ices and cakes and the drinking of cherry brandy. There was also a sociable breakfast once a week, but this was soon abandoned. The original object of the society was to encourage the study of history by means of debates, and, to maintain harmony, all religious subjects and questions relating to contemporary politics were forbidden. There was little card-playing when I was at Eton. The old clergyman who was called our 'dame,' not inappropriately, seemed to have a sort of 76 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. spiritual intimation when anything improper was attempted. I remember our once having become possessed, by some good fortune as we thought, of a pack of cards. ' We made everything snug, and a rubber was commenced; but we had scarcely played two hands when ominous sounds were heard on the stairs. We thrust our cards under us. Our ' dame ' opened the door, looked round the room, asked us anxiously about our health, and made some irrelevant remarks about the weather. Then he finally observed : ' You are sitting in a very formal manner round the table.' The charge was true, for although we had hidden the cards we had not had time or presence of mind to move our chairs. We gazed at each other's position with apparent surprise. 'Well,' he continued, 'I cannot leave you sitting in this manner. Hart, go to your room.' Poor Hart rose, looking as red as a cherry-, and on his chair his spotted crime was revealed. The dame's brow darkened ; he took the cards and held them up in damnatory witness before our faces, but at length relieved our feelings by kindly saying : ' Come, give up the cards, and I will not com- plain of you.' CORRECTION. 77 Card-playing was a capital offence, which could only be wiped out with the birch. I may here observe that Dr. Hawtrey was accustomed in his executions to alternate strokes with strictures upon the offence committed. Why he should thus intensify the punishment did not clearly appear. My belief is that he thought that whole- some advice, which could not be knocked into the heads of the unruly, might be made im- pressive and driven in by the rod. Sometimes his remarks were spiced with humour, which seemed to the sufferer peculiarly ill-timed. On one occasion, when a little fellow was being punished for playing cards, as the Doctor was 'letting it in' pretty tightly, the victim was wriggling and twisting about to avoid the birch, and Hawtrey proceeded with his work as follows : 'Play whist, will you?' (swish). 'Odd tricks, indeed !' (swish). ' Oh yes — all right — you shuffle, and I'll cut ' (swish). CHAPTER V. 'Shirking' — Festivals— Tone of the School — The Eton Magazines. Inconsistency was the queen of Eton in my day. The administration of the laws was upon the Irish system. Many things were forbidden, but all were practically allowed, except such heinous offences as card-playing and stone-throw- ing. The authorities wished to show a strict code, and to point out what acts were objection- able, but did not wish that the boys should regard the school as a place of punishment. Thus, though the ' tap ' and Christopher were forbidden, they were constantly frequented without any unpleasant result, and the majority passed through Eton without feeling the rod, though sometimes a boy suffered for some small uninten- tional offence. In this Eton resembled the great world. "Windsor Fair was forbidden to us, but was 'SHIRKING: 79 always largely attended by the boys, who played there hide-and-seek with the masters. ' Cribs ' (that is, translations) were against the rules, but everyone had them, and the lessons were so long that their use must have been presupposed. There were boys who asserted that some masters themselves used them ; but this seemed im- probable. Breaking bounds is a time-honoured custom at all schools. At Eton the bounds were narrow, and, although boating was allowed, it was a trans- gression to go to the river. On the same prin- ciple, although upon the Terrace at Windsor you might take off your hat to a master, woe betided 3'ou if he caught you on the road going there or re- turning. But he inflicted no punishment for being out of bounds unless the delinquent came within his grasp, even though he knew his name. Hence arose the strange system of ' shirking.' If a master was seen approaching — and he could generally be recognised at a distance by the radiance of his white tie — the boys disappeared right and left over hedges and ditches, into shops, or anywhere. Sometimes a young master who was disengaged, and in a sporting mood, would give chase across country, or pull an offender from under a counter ; but this only occurred 8o VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA VS. when some lack of Spartan activity had been shown. I was only once in danger of being caught. As I was walking in the High Street of Windsor I espied one of the masters approaching. He was a particularly severe man, and was believed to walk about with an umbrella over his head for the purpose of ' naihng' incautious wanderers. Imme- diately on seeing him I turned and took refuge in a neighbouring bootmaker's, for the tradespeople all know that the system exists, and afford a retreat to fugitives. As ill-luck would have it, Mrs. Carter was in that very shop trying on a pair of boots, and I saw a complacent smile playing on Mr. Carter's countenance, which I thought by no means indicative of good intentions. It was too late to rush out, for he was close upon me before I saw him. On looking round for concealment I observed at the end of the shop one of those large boot and shoe stands, or trophies, which we some- times see in such places, and I crept behind it. Mrs. Carter looked up from her little boots with some surprise, and in another minute the master entered and made straight for the trophy behind which I was concealed. As he approached the right side of it I edged round to the left, and when he was fairly behind it I bolted out of the door. MONTE M. 8 1 nearly upsetting Mrs. Carter, boots and all, and I did not look behind me until I was half-way over Windsor Bridge. I do not think that the boys considered shirk- ing a hardship — they rather liked the excitement. There was something comic about it, and it seldom degenerated into the tragic. In the days about which I write, the chief road to Ascot lay through Eton, and during the races the little boys found great amusement in sitting along the school wall watching the stream of carts and coaches and carriages, and making play with pea-shooters. Sometimes a man who had been hard hit would rein up and come down among us to retaliate, and then a scrimmage would ensue. I remember that once my tutor caught several of his little pupils hotly engaged in this sport at Ascot time, and in threatening them made some characteristic remarks about their ' asinine ' pro- ceedings. It has always been a regret to me that I never was present at the cdebration of Montem. Everyone has heard of this old historic observance, when the captain of the school, the marshal, and the ensign with his splendid flag marched with the boys in regimental and other costumes to Salt Hill. In George III.'s time the King and some 6 82 VERT DE VERrS ETON DA YS. of the royal family attended, and the road through- out its length was crowded with spectators. In the evening the boys went to the Terrace at Windsor, where the King again appeared and spoke to many of them. But this belongs to the past. Just before I went to Eton the iron horse made its appearance near the ' antique towers,' and brought down such a heterogeneous mob that the authorities determined to abolish the festival altogether. Some objection was also felt to the mendicant collection of ' salt,' which certainly in latter days was different from that Attic salt which a learned Provost thought was originally intended. Some of the boys, called ' runners,' attired in silk, went many miles away along the high-roads in search of it, and sometimes as much as eight hundred pounds was collected. It was intended to assist the captain of the school in his university course ; but, though the second captain always received a sum, about ;^I20, the expenses were considerable, and it had become the custom for the captain of the school to expend his part of the money in entertaining his schoolfellows. All these changes were adverse to the observance, but still the loss of Montem, with its gay costumes and quaint observances, seemed another breach of ancestral customs, another flower snatched from MONTEM. 83 the garland of ' merrie England.' Montem is supposed to have been coeval with the foundation of the school, and in the early part of the eighteenth century the dresses worn at it were extravagantly magnificent. The school must have presented a gay appearance in Montem years, for the boys wore their bright attire till the end of the summer term. In the second year of my Eton life this triennial festival was for the first time omitted. There was a discontented feeling in the school. Those who had not seen Montem imagined they had a great loss ; those who had witnessed it missed the amusement. There was a hostile feeling towards those in authority, and some talked of a rebellion. How- ever, when the day came (Whit Tuesday) the boys contented themselves with assembling and march- ing in doleful procession with a black flag to Salt Hill, where they buried old Montem with suitable and melancholy rites. Two festivals still remained — the Fourth of June and Election Saturday. They were both regattas, and similar to each other. The latter was held on the last Saturday in the summer school-time, and was abolished some twenty years since. Before 1747 the day was celebrated by the 6—2 84 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. boys hunting a ram ; but this stranj^e sport was discontinued owing to one of the pursued animals having crossed the river and caused havoc in Windsor market. For a long time a kind of Feast of Tabernacles was celebrated on this day by the collegers. Wagon-loads of beech branches were brought in and used to decorate the Long Chamber, the beds were covered with green rugs marked with the college arms, and the captain's bed at the end was adorned with a flag. The numerous visitors were much pleased with the leafy vista thus formed. The Fourth of June is kept in perpetual memory of George III. He was a great patron of Eton, and was frequently at the school. He often passed through in the winter, and when the boys saw the hounds and the green cart with the stag, they knew the King would soon follow, and collected along ' Long Walk ' wall. When he appeared, they raised a cheer, and he always stopped and spoke to some of them, usually to the sons of noblemen whom he knew. He would have some fun with them, asking them when they were flogged last, and ending by saying if they were good he would get them a holiday. Occasionally, when he had entertainments at the Castle (usually German plays), he would send for the upper boys THE FOURTH OF JUNE. 85 by fifties to see them, and he used to call them hh boys, and did his best to speak to them all. On the celebration of his jubilee, fifty boys received invitations, and were mustered in the Queen's Lodge at Frogmore by the captain of the school. They then marched to the Castle, finding it diffi- cult to make their way through the crowded streets of Windsor. One of them records the event, and speaks of the music, the magnificent tents, and the countless lamps suspended in the trees and reflected in the lakes. Bullocks were roasted whole on Bachelor's Acre in Windsor with strings of sheep round them, ' like sausages round a turkey.' [In 1814, when the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and Blucher went to Frogmore, the Queen invited the Eton boys. Old Blucher was very gracious, and kissed many of them.] To turn to my own days. Some time previous to every Fourth of June all the lower boys, and many others, became unusually civil to those in the ' boats,' and began to calculate their chances of favour with that august body. When the day arrived, Eton seemed completely metamorphosed; no work, no play was going forward ; the boys were lounging about the school wall in holiday attire, conversing with relations, and speculating 86 VERT DE VERTS ETON DA YS. upon ' tips.' Some, who had rich and hberal friends, made a good harvest ; others received Httle or nothing. I remember hearing of one to whom a miserly uncle offered a five-shilling piece. The boy looked at it superciliously, and then said : ' We don't take silver here.' * Then,' returned the old monster, ' of course you don't take gold,' and pocketed the affront. The day wore the dissipated aspect of a fete time, there were no speeches, I believe, and all thoughts were directed towards the evening. At length it arrived, and a vast concourse collected on Windsor Bridge and in the vicinity of the river to see the boats start. Every eight had its own uniform, and the little steerers with their swords, cocked hats, and large bouquets, presented a pretty and fantastical appearance. As a contrast to the gay costume of the crew, there sat in every boat a demure gentleman in black, who seemed singularly out of place, and was called the sitter. In cautious, old-fashioned times, this term was applied to a well-balanced individual, who sat in the centre of the boat to keep it steady ; now it referred to a person in the stern, who, to judge from the large hamper of champagne in front of him, v»as more likely to make it unsteady. He, THE FOURTH OF JUNE. 87 or at least his gift, could by no means be left behind, but since the boats have become narrower, these gentlemen have been obliged to travel in a less dignified manner. Bands on the river strike up ' See the conquering hero comes,' or some such inspiring air, and the crowd on land and water move off together in the direction of ' Old Surley.' There supper is found laid out al fresco on seven tables for the crews of the boats, while the sixth form and a few mag- nates are accommodated in a tent. The crews debark, and, marching up with conscious dignity, take their seats in state, surrounded by all the rest of the school and numerous visitors. About seventy boys were thus provided for, and the rest had either the privilege of standing quietly by to see the others eat, or of endeavouring to obtain a share by favour or importunity,* The latter alternative was generally adopted, and the crowd of little mendicants clustered like bees round the chairs of their more fortunate friends, who sat like princes distributing their bounty. The characters of the boys contrasted strangely on this occasion. Some were selfish and reserved, and * There were no tables laid for the fifth form at this time. The steerers in the earlier part of the century wore fancy dresses, and not naval uniforms. 88 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. would scarcely distribute anything ; others were absurdly generous, and gave away all their supper ; and equally among the applicants, some had many friends, and were invariably seen with a glass of wine in one hand and a chicken-bone in the other, while others seemed to have no interest whatever, and were endeavouring by longing looks to move the compassion of boys to whom they were en- tire strangers. The loyal and local toasts were at length drunk, and the crews, rising, resought their boats and returned to Eton, where they kept rowing up and down by the bridge while a splendid display of fireworks took place on Piper's eyot. Here, after rockets and jets innumerable, the last and most magnificent piece was lighted, and the time- honoured motto ' Floreat Etona ' shone forth, kindling a general response — the band played up ' God save the Queen,' and the Fourth of June was over. The boys now made their way back to ' lock up.' I am sorry to say that in my time a few of them were unable without assistance to find the entrances to their tutors' houses. The rest con- sidered this incapacity somewhat creditable, if not enviable, for had they not been popular they could not have obtained so much champagne. The FESTIVALS. 89 head master, however, took a different view, and was pretty busy with his brush next morning. The arrangements for these two festivals were made by the captain of the oppidans, who, although assisted by a school rate, was generally considerably out of pocket by them. Another festival — of a much more private character, and limited to certain ' swells ' — was Oppidan Dinner. It was held in the summer at the White Hart in Windsor, and as it could not be continued late, the Roman custom of beginning early was adopted. At this, also, some of the banqueters became confused in their reckonings, and I heard of one of them having been overturned by a flock of sheep which he unfortunately met on his way home. But this belongs to the past, ' consule Bibulo.' The last Oppidan Dinner took place in 1859. 'Chaff' seems indigenous to the soil of Eton. ' Mirth and youthful jollity ' trip there hand in hand, and although sport may sometimes be in- dulged in at another's expense, there are few who do not look back upon their Eton days as among the happiest in their existence. How many sweet summer days have we spent upon the silver Thames ! On how many fine evenings have we 90 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. collected cockchafers to buzz in Waxy's room! Sometimes I have gone to a window to answer a question, and received as my reward the contents of a jug which drenched me from head to foot. . Yet, with all this, we enjoyed — ' The thoughtless day, the easy night, The spirits free, the slumbers light,' and might truly have been said to feel — ' No chill except long morning.' Practical joking was mostly confined to the lower boys, the ' swells ' preferring more amiable sport, and showing some ingenuity in various forms of ' chaff.' But beside the wild luxuriance of humour grew a fairer and more graceful plant. The atmosphere of Eton was redolent with the sweet scents of poetry. Not only were its little inhabitants, as I have before observed, employed in soliciting the Muses ; not only was the great Spankie a poet, but there was a real priest of Calliope, a man of haggard and moon-struck aspect, who dressed himself in many-coloured robes on state occasions, and distributed his effusions to the admiring throng. His flights were not, I am sorry to say, of the highest kind, although he was the last of ETIQUETTE. 91 the bards who sang the glories of Montem, with its dresses, and swords, and ' ravages ' 'Among the unoffending cabbages.'* But the surrounding scenery was almost sufficient to inspire the soul even of this pantaloon, without the addition of the historical associations. He was, I suppose, a successor of the great Stockhore, who used to go in fantastical costume to Montem in a donkey-cart. And in keeping with all this beauty, I may observe that, notwithstanding the peccadilloes of which I have spoken, there was a better tone at Eton than in most schools. Scott makes a high- wayman lament that, ' though he can swear as round an oath as any man, he can never do it like a gentleman,' and I think that of the raciness which seems indigenous in the generality of boys, that at Eton had a mild and improved flavour. Side by side with it, a certain amount of etiquette existed. On returning to school there was a general handshaking among friends, and even acquaintances, and when you passed a boy in the evening a polite ' good-night ' was exchanged. If a boy accidentally touched your jacket in going to * At Montem some of the boys also amused themselves with cutting the flowers and palings of the Salt Hill Hotel, for which the captain of the school had to pay handsomely. 92 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. his place in school or church, he courteously ' begged your pardon,' although you might have just kicked each other in the yard outside. And boys who remained long at Eton could scarcely avoid being imbued with the feeling that a gentle- man must not be guilty of any petty meanness towards those in poorer circumstances. Neatness in attire is not common among boys, but at Eton many aspired to be exquisites. There was a stringent rule that a certain decorous uniformity should be observed in dress — no lounging or shooting-coats were allowed, no straw hats or caps. No ; the smaller boys wore jackets and black slip-knot handkerchiefs, the bigger ones swallow-tailed dress-coats and spotless white ties, which made them look like juvenile candidates for clerical preferment. The latter wore no collars ; the tie, which was a stiff ' neckcloth,' was about a yard long, and went twice round. Just as I was leaving Eton, one of the master's sons started a single tie and collar, but this innovation was re- garded with disfavour as much too free-and-easy. The masters kept a sharp eye upon the boys' tails. I remember a luxurious fellow being called to account because he was attempting something like a 'morning' coat. His tutor told him that he must not ' dress himself like a barsreman.' No HATS. 93 objection, however, was made to an indulgence in studs, bunches of charms, and other jewellery ; and many decorated their coats with summer flowers, in the arrangement of which they showed some taste. ' Eton bucks,' says the old proverb ; and certainly in my time they deserved the com- pliment, and few knew better how to lay the rose or geranium blossom on its leaf. On the anniversary of the Restoration — the old Church service for which was then used— there was not one boy who did not sport the oak-apple. But the crown of all was the ' pot ' hat, and the Eton boy took an incredible amount of pride in that finish of his attire. Though worn and faded, he still cherished and protected it, but when new and radiant, his devotion was unbounded. The Oxford swell might exclaim, ' Take my life, but spare my collars !' the Eton boy would have sub- stituted ' but spare my tile,' and it was always considered a mark of the lowest degradation when anyone could stand tamely by and see his hat ill- used. Hence we can understand what occurred at this time at Windsor, when some Eton boys went up to play with the Princes. Knowing their sensitiveness on this point, and actuated by some youthful malice, the Prince of Wales surreptitiously obtained one of their hats and played football with 94 VERT DE VERTS ETON DAYS. it along the terrace, which so incensed the owner that he forgot his loyalty, pursued the Prince, and gave him a little summary punishment. A few of the young noblemen were occasionally invited to visit the Princes, and those who had visions of a spread of delicacies were sadly disap- pointed when they were set down to wholesome beef and mutton. The Queen always took a great interest in the school which stood so near the Castle, and sometimes sent for the boys to see exhibitions. I remember her attending speeches, and all the school considered it a compliment when she invited Dr. Hawtrey to tea. Whenever she passed through Eton she was loudly cheered by its little inhabitants, and would check the speed of her carriages out of consideration for those who ran beside her to the Park gates. From the sketch I have given of Eton it may be supposed that there was not much study carried on there. But those willing to learn had a great advantage in the good tuition, large library, and the opportunities offered for trying their mettle by competition. The compulsory learning by rote was also of great value, and considerably improved the memory. Eton was then self-contained and untouched by any Royal Commission or 'governing body,' and although all the fellows and masters STUDIES. 95 had been (with scarcely an exception) collegers, most of them were distinguished classical scholars, and the King's men were celebrated for winning prizes at Cambridge. But at this time there were no competitive examinations for the various pro- fessions, and, moreover, Eton was generally con- sidered, both by masters and boys, to be a school for the upper classes, where a few years were to be passed agreeably in good society and in obtaining such an education as was necessary for a gentle- man. Physical exercise was thought of great im- portance, and many preferred boating or cricketing to reading. They had neither abilities nor desire to shine as classical scholars, and did not see why they should make their school life miserable. Notwithstanding the tutors' lectures, they felt that it was of little consequence to them how many theories were held about the corrupt passages in ^schylus, or what were the ancient names of the rivers in Asia Minor. They had no curiosity on these subjects, and most of them were correct in thinking that, however much they worked, they would never obtain their livelihood by their classical knowledge. Afterwards some of them, having eaten their cake, grew discontented, imagined they might have become celebrated, and blamed the school-system for their obscurity, just 96 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. as men who are brought to book for disorderly conduct generally set down their offences to the account of Bacchus. They did not consider their own want of self-control and love of amusement, w'hich no school discipline could have overcome. There were a few, very few, v/ho, like the present head master, shone both in sport and study, and some of the most successful men at the Universities, not only in the eights and elevens, but also in the examinations, always hail from Eton. But whether a bo}^ succeeded or not in becoming distinguished, he did not fail to obtain some advantage. A man who has been educated in private or at a small school, as girls are, is like an isolated individual with comparatively narrow views and experience, and little grasp of the world; but one from a public school, and especially from Eton, is like a member of a great common- wealth — his prejudices have been corrected, his angles more or less rubbed off, and he has a large connection of friends and acquaintances through- out the country, some of whom he meets from time to time, and who are ever ready to give him the right hand of fellowship. The boys at Eton had few books but those required for lessons. It is mentioned as an ex- traordinary fact, in 1832, that one had a library LEA VI NG BOOKS. 97 of several hundred volumes. But a popular boy- left in my days with a nice little library of well- bound * leaving books.' Towards the end of each school-time there was some rivalry and excitement about these collections. Mr. Williams' (the book- seller's) shop was resplendent on these occasions, the books being all handsomely bound and mostly gilt, and varying in price from a guinea upwards. But soon after I left, the gifts became absurdly numerous and the custom was abolished altogether. This change was made on the score of economy ; but I believe some educational charges were in- creased so as to leave the expenses at their normal level. It might have been better to have limited the price of the books, for these gifts were productive of kindly feelings. The receiver always shook hands with the donor and requested him to write his name in the book, and the collec- tion formed a pleasant remembrance of Eton in after years, and a memorial of friendship with school-fellows, some of whom we were destined never to meet again. There was a magazine started in my days at Eton — of course there was. Such a periodical had existed, spasmodically, for over half a century, and was mostly remarkably for its chameleon character. Each venture lasted for a year, more or less ; and 7 98 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. shortly after it collapsed another appeared with a new name.* Sometimes two were rivals. The idea was taken from the Spectator and Rambler, but the inferior experience of the writers was shown in the width of the subjects and the pomposity of the treatment. The first, the Microcosm, published at Windsor, 1786, was edited by Canning when in the sixth form, assisted by 'Bobus' Smith and Hookham Frere. The next, the Miniature, was under the direction of Stratford Canning (Lord Stratford de Redcliffe), with the learned pseudo- nym of ' Solomon Grildrig.' Successively, the well-known John Moultrie appears as an editor, and Praed started the Etonian, one of the most successful of these magazines, supported by Moul- trie, H. N. Coleridge, and Mr. Beales, after- wards the hero of Hyde Park. The 1832 maga- zine has a melancholy interest, inasmuch as the Hon. G. W. Lyttleton (the late peer, who ended so sadly) contributed to it, among other articles, an excellent account of his Eton life. * The magazines were the Microcos7n (1786), the Mi?iiai}n-e (1804), the Linger (edited by G. B. Maturin and W. G. Cookesley, for collegers onlj', 181 8), the College Magazine (John Moultrie, 1818), the Etonian (Praed, 1820), the Salt Bearer (1820), the Eto7t Miscellany (1827), the Oppidan (1828), the Eton College Magazine (1832), the Kaleidoscope (1833), the Eto7i Bureau (1842), the Eton School Magazine (1848), the Porticits Etonensis (1859). the Eton Observer (i860), the Pha'?iix{i^^i), and the Eton CJiroiiicle (1863). MAGAZINES. 99 But the Miscellany, which in 1827 preceded the last-mentioned, became the most celebrated production, inasmuch as it was edited by Mr. Gladstone, under the name of Bartholomew Bouverie. It contained good articles and poems by Sir Francis Doyle and Arthur Hallam (immor- talized by 'In Memoriam ' ), and George (after- words Bishop) Selwyn, who showed something of his family talent in his amusing contributions on ' The Dull Club,' ' The Doctor,' and 'The Mush- room Gentleman.' It seems strange to find, by a fanciful and somewhat premature epitaph which Mr. Gladstone here wrote upon himself, that he considered his success to be chiefly that of a wit and humourist. The fact was that, as there were then no examinations after the fifth form was reached, nor any distinction attainable except that of being sent up for good,* the boys who sought fame had to advance in a different direc- tion, Mr. Gladstone was already ambitious and political. The length to which he was ready to proceed in a wild pursuit of liberty may be gathered from his ' Ode to the Shade of Wat Tyler,' in whose shade he rejoices so much that he is led to eulogize Ings, who plotted to assassi- * The reward for which was 20s., and every third time a book. The Newcastle was not lounded until 1829. 7—2. loo VERT DE VERT'S ETON DA YS. nate his friend Canning. The poem is full of spirit and mischief — the following last verse being a fair specimen of the whole : ' Still, mid the cotton and the flax, Warm let the glow of freedom wax ; Still, mid the shuttles and the steam, Bright let the flame of freedom gleam ; So men of taxes, men of law, In alley close and murky lane, Shall find a Tyler and a Straw, To cleave the despot's slaves in twain.' When we find Mr. Gladstone praising as ' men of taxes, men of law,' two scoundrels who stirred up the populace not to pay the king's tax, and to commit murder and robbery, we are led to com- pare the views of his youth with those of his old age. It is remarkable that this magazine, under Mr. Gladstone's directions, contains nothing about Eton. As in the Microcosm and Miniature, the writers' minds were all turned to the outer world ; either they were not in touch with the school, or considered it unworthy of notice. Mr. Glad- stone and the majority of the contributors did not enter into the games and amusements. The later magazines showed more sympathy with the place where they were published, which was farther evinced by the Eton Chronicle, started in 1863. ILLUSIONS. loi It is a remarkable coincidence that Mr. Glad- stone lived, when at Eton, at the house of Dame Shurey, opposite the Christopher, where Lord R. Cecil (Lord Salisbury) afterwards was, when it belonged to the Rev. W. G. Cookesley. There were some boys at the school who seemed to be at Eton but not of Eton. They were always thinking about the holidays and their homes, often connected with recollections of hunt- ing and shooting. We read of a boy who disliked the school or loved liberty so much, that he rejoiced to hear he was to have, twice in the term, two da}s' holiday, at the cost of having a tooth extracted on each occasion. But few escaped imbibing somewhat of the spirit of the place, and most considered Eton to be much above the rest of the world, if not the centre of the universe. Perhaps there was something also in the vicinity of Windsor Castle which may have led to an idea that the school was in some way connected with royalty. I well remember how tame and second-rate Oxford appeared to me afterwards, with its heterogeneous society and pursuits. How astonished I was to hear that some whom I regarded as sublime swells had come down to the level of ordinary mortality, and had actually consented to take country curacies and clerkships I02 VERT DE VERT'S ETON DAYS. in public offices. I even knew a captain of the boats who went to the bar, and after that con- descension did not succeed in obtaining any- business ! The picture which the retrospect of Eton hfe leaves on the mind is one of summer sunshine — not that there was then more sunshine on the landscape, but there was more in our young hearts. We forget most of the trials we endured, and, by a kindly dispensation, those we recollect afford us now pleasure in place of pain. There certainly was more gaiety and variety in the school than at present exists. The difference between the Eton of the past and that of the present consists mainly in the increased number of examinations, the greater strictness of disci- pline, and the abolition of festivals. The whole holidays now, if such they can be called, are broken by an early lesson. The boys attend churCh every morning — very few did in my days. Cur- tains now divide the ' Upper School,' and it is said that this fine old chamber, whose oak is scored with the names of Fox and Canning and a hundred other notables, and where generations of great men have delivered their first speeches, will echo to such utterances no more. Montem, Election Saturday, check nights, oppidan dinner. PROGRESS. 103 the race with Westminster, and the match with Winchester at Lords, have followed each other into the shades of history. But we must in fairness admit that some exercises and amusements have been added since 1850. There are now a rifle-corps, and a race at Henley ; and the beagles, which had disappeared in my time, have been re-established. We must conclude that the various changes which have taken place have been desirable ; they have cer- tainly been in accordance with the spirit of the times : and this year (1887) the number of boys on the books — 964 — is the highest that has ever been attained. It has been the rare privilege of those at present at the school to assist in the celebration of another Jubilee. Many will hereafter remem- ber that midsummer night whose mystic fires marked out emblems of loyalty ; and we feel sure that love to their sovereign will ever burn brightly among Eton boys, and that they will hand on the torch to distant generations. ON HALF-A-CROVVN. Half-a-crown of George the Third's long reign, What scenes of pleasure and of pain Couldst thou record ! I scarcely trace The features of the Guelphic face. So worn art thou by many hands. Returned perchance from foreign lands. Thousands thy rounded form have pressed, And always as a welcome guest : Never too late, and gone too soon, Thy beaming presence deemed a boon. And though of royal birth, no pride Forbids thee humbly to reside Among the poor, who often pray Thou wouldst defer the parting day. The grandsire gave thee for his snuff. The beauty for her powder-puff; The seamstress who had starved and sewn Received thee for her herring-bone ; ON HALF-A-CROWN. 105 A noble gave thee to a groom, A workman for his weekly room ; With thee the housemaid gaily went To buy a pinchbeck ornament ; The masher threw thee for a flower, The cabman drove for thee an hour ; And many a man has won renown Who started first with half-a-crown. King George is dead. But now, again, A golden marriage, in the reign Of good Victoria, comes to bless Our sovereign in her loneliness. May the great Union ever shine ! Ill fare the men of ill design — Knaves who would tear our empire down, And leave our Queen but half a crown. LOVE'S LAUGHTER. * Has the box been opened ?' inquired Dora. ' I hope it will not prove a Pandora's box !' said her father gaily. ' Oh no ! I am sure it contains something beautiful,' replied his daughter. ' It comes from Mrs. Bromfield, and you know she has always good taste.' ' It is open,' said her mother ; ' and here are the contents.' ' A tea-set of old Worcester !' exclaimed Dora in ecstasies. *' How lovely ! — why, the cups are as transparent as egg-shells; and look at the delicate painting — those are birds of Paradise !' A chorus of approbation followed, which had hardly subsided, when the door was thrown open, and the butler announced : ' Mrs. Martin.' ' Oh, my dear Mrs. Martin,' said Dora, going to meet her and squeezing her hand, ' how kind LOVE'S LAUGHTER. 107 you are ! You must come over and see my wed- ding presents. Look at the clocks ! surely I must be always in time ; and the ivory prayer-books, half a dozen of them ; then there is that looking- glass with the Cupids over it, sent me with such a complimentary note, saying I should always see a fresh beauty in it. But of all my presents, there is none I like better than yours, my dear Mrs. Martin — that silver teapot ; anything so sweetly chased I never before saw, and so light to the hand — no weight at all !' ]\Irs. Martin's countenance was a study. ' Well,' she stammered, recovering herself, ' I thought I would send you something small, which you would use when alone, and then you would remember me more often. What a splendid diamond brooch ! — who gave you that, my dear?' ' Mr. Jervis, to whom I am going to be married.' Dora Milhngton was an exquisite little creature. She had light wavy hair, pink and white com- plexion, and such a rosy, tempting little mouth. She had the character of being a flirt — a kind of butterfly-being, which no dictionary has been able to define and no philosopher to fathom. Perhaps the real secret is in the eye ; she always seemed as if she wished to be intensely kind. Every man who conversed with her came away feeling loS LOVE'S LAUGHTER. himself an inch taller and thinking that he was appreciated at last. But, alas ! his feelings under- went a sad revulsion when he found her next day making herself equally agreeable to that conceited Brown and that vulgar Robinson. The general opinion was that she had no heart, or that if she had any it had been so hashed and mashed as not to be much worth having. It might have been regarded as an hotel in which travellers only stopped for the day. Elderly chaperons shook their heads and said that she would never be married, while her enemies applied to her the oppro- brious name above mentioned — one people never give to themselves, or to friends they value. It is necessary to say that Dora indignantly resented this description of her ; and to say the truth, she had more sincerity than she was supposed to possess. She had two or three prime favourites among the un-fair sex, and there was one who had for some time occupied lodgings in her heart. Mrs. Martin was still examining the gifts with a valuator's eye, when the footman opened the door and announced — ' Mr. Jervis,' The scrutinizing lady looked up with curiosity. She had heard that the man to whom Dora was Z O VE' S LA UGHTER. 1 09 engaged was middle-aged, short, and plain, but had certain sterling advantages of which her father had a great appreciation. What a sur- prise — here he was, a tall handsome young man of twenty-five ! On the name being announced, Dora rose and went towards the door. As he entered she seemed a little startled. But her confusion changed into a smile, and she held out her hand. ' I am glad to see you, Mr. Purvis,' she said ; * it seems a long time since we have met. You must excuse the mistake made by the footman ; he is lately come, and I think is a little deaf.' Mr. Purvis smiled in acknowledgment. ' We are quartered at Gib.,' he said ; ' but I have just obtained leave of absence, and I need not say that you are the first person I have come to see.' 'So very kind of you,' replied Dora quickly. ' Mrs. Martin, allow me to introduce Mr. Purvis.' Some general conversation followed, during which the lieutenant's eyes frequently turned to the table covered with shining ornaments. At last he said : ' What a brilliant array you have on that table, Miss Millington — such a variety of ornaments !' no LOVES LA UGHTER. ' Oh 3'es ! don't you know ?' ' Know ! — know what ?' ' That I am going to be married next week.' ' Going to be married!' he repeated in astonish- ment. ' Not really ?' ' It's a fact !' she returned, with a grave and significant nod. ' Oh, well, in that case — well then, it's no use ! I shall return to Gib. I suppose I may guess who is the fortunate individual. Your footman was considerate,' he added with a little bitterness. Dora could not help smiling through all her embarrassment. She was thus able to change the subject with female adroitness ; but there was a constraint during the rest of the visit. All were relieved when the lieutenant made his bow and departed. Dora was much disturbed by this event. It awakened in her mind feelings long dormant, and which she hoped had been suppressed for ever. There was something painful in their recurring when it was too late, and she determined to put them aside once for all. Next day, as she was sitting at her work with her mother in the drawing-room, she meditated composedly upon the prospect of her marriage. True, it was not everything she could have wished, but her parents LOVES LAUGHTER. in were pleased ; that was a satisfaction to her. She beheved Mr. Jervis was a really amiable man, and she hoped to make him a good wife. Romance or enthusiasm she did not feel, but she did not dislike the idea of having a comfortable if not luxurious home. While she was thus placidly musing, a gentle knock was heard at the door. ' Come in,' she said mechanically. It was her maid — Simpkins. ' Could I speak to you for a minute, miss ?' ' Certainly.' Dora rose and went to her. As soon as she was out of the room, Simpkins closed the door firmly, and said in an ominous voice : * Mr. Purvis is downstairs, miss.' Dora looked aghast ; for a moment she seemed utterly bewildered and unable to speak. ' Mr. Purvis !' she gasped at last. ' What docs he want ?' ' He wishes to see you, miss.' * Oh, that is quite impossible ! Say that I am very sorr}\ I could not see him.' ' Very well, miss.' Simpkins went down with the message. Purvis was greatly disconcerted when he received it. ' Not even for a minute ?' he said dejectedly. Then, after a pause, he asked : ' Could I write a note ?' 112 LOVES LAUGHTER. ' Certainly. Walk in here,' said Simpkins, opening the dining-room door. Purvis took out a pencil, and tearing off a half- sheet from a note, wrote as follows : ' Dear Miss Millington, ' Having come so far to see you, I write this in the hope that you will not condemn me to return without having at least a few minutes' conversation with you. It would be a consola- tion to me in my lifelong banishment from your presence. I feel sure that, in remembrance of many past days of happiness, you will not refuse this last request. ' Ever yours, * R. Purvis.' Having finished this, and doubled it up into a nice little three-cornered note, he handed it to Simpkins, and putting his gold pencil case into his pocket, took out therefrom something of the same metal, but not so long. ' Oh, thank you, sir,' said Simpkins. ' I'll take care that Miss Dora has the note.' Dora went out to a party that night. When she returned and had retired to her room she stood for a moment before the cheval glass, taking a natural flower out of her hair, and perhaps ad- LOVE'S LA UGHTER. 1 1 3 miring, as she could scarcely avoid, her own youthful beauty. Then, turning to Simpkins, she inquired : ' What did Mr. Purvis say ?' ' Oh, he was in a way, miss,' replied her maid, taking out the note. ' He begged of me to give you this.' Dora flushed, and looked at it with hesitation ; then took it and laid it unopened on the table. When she had sat down, Simpkins, who began to brush her hair, added : ' Mr. Purvis was so sorry that you would not see him.' ' I could not do it, Simpkins,' replied Dora. ' It would be too painful, and of no use. Besides, it would not look well, under the circumstances.' ' Well, I don't see why you might not just see him for a minute, merely to wish him " Good- bye " before he goes back to the Antipoles.' ' Don't brush my hair so hard, Simpkins !' ' I don't know when I've seen a handsomer gentleman,' persisted Simpkins ; ' and he always seems to do the right thing. I am sure he will be a most populous man.' ' He has never been popular with my people,' replied Dora. ' Well, he was^very much liked when we were 114 LOVES LA UGHTER. at Harrogate. You used to meet him pretty often, and I think enjoyed yourself very much there.' * Perhaps I did,' rephed Dora, a httle sadly and absently. ' I know you looked very well there. It was such an embracing air.' ' All that is past and gone,' said Dora, with an effort. 'I must try to forget it. Everything is now settled. I could wish things had ended differently,' she added, almost inaudibly. * But then, if you did see Mr. Purvis, it would be only for a minute,' contended Simpkins, giving the hair a tug. ' Oh, how you hurt me ! But what could be the use of my seeing him ? Well, perhaps just for a minute, if he is so anxious about it — only for a minute. But I would rather not. Besides, how could it be managed ? It would not do to have it known.' ' Oh, leave all that to me, miss. I'll make the arrangement. He can go into the dining-room, and I will say that you are wanted for something. "What time shall I fix ? He is to call for an answer to-morrow morning.' ' Well, let me see. Say to-morrow, at six. I shall be glad to have it over.' LOVES LAUGHTER. 115 Mrs. Millington was decidedly of opinion that Dora did not look well next day. There was something unusual and absent in her daughter's manner. Mr. Jervis called, and did his best to make himself agreeable. He was a worthy man, better than many who were more appreciated. But he was not at all calculated to kindle a flame in any woman's breast. He was silent and medita- tive, generally looking at his boots or at the carpet, as if he had lost something. On this oc- casion Dora seemed to have greater difficulty than usual in summoning the smile with which she generally spoke to him. After he departed and as the day wore on she became uncomfort- able, and said so little that her mother inquired if she was ill. ' No,' she replied ; ' only a little fatigued.' She kept her eye on the clock. How much she wished that she had refused, and saved herself all this anxiety, and perhaps danger. Every minute seemed an hour. At last six struck, and she leant back exhausted in her chair. When a tap came to the door she felt scarcely able to answer. Simpkins came in. ' If you please, miss, the dressmaker has called to see you.' 8—2 Il6 LOVE'S LAUGHTER. Dora felt ashamed of her duphcity. She rose with difficulty. 'The dressmaker!' exclaimed Mrs. Millington. ' I'll go down with you. I want to speak to her about the alterations in the skirt.' ' Oh, ma'am,' interposed Simpkins, in some tre- pidation, ' it's only a young person come about the sleeves.' ' Well, tell her to say that I am dissatisfied with the skirt,' said Mrs. Millington loftily. ' Certainly, ma'am. I'll say it is to be altered. It is to be on a new destruction.' On reaching the top of the stairs Dora's courage failed. ' Tell him that I am not able to go down, Simp- kins. I cannot.'' ' Oh, miss ! he will be so disappointed. Besides, I said you would see him. Perhaps he will refuse to leave.' In a trembling state she reached the dining- room. ' As you wish to see me,' she said coldly, and with a well-affected show of self-possession, ' I have just come to say " Good-bye," but I cannot stay.' He seized her hand, and retained it in his own. LOVE'S LAUGHTER. 117 ' I wished,' he said earnestly, ' to ask you one question. Do you forget all that has passed ? Is this marriage you are going to make of your own free choice ?' Dora looked down nervously. ' My parents wish it,' she replied feebly; 'and I believe that I shall be happy with Mr. Jervis. I hear he is a good man, and he is very kind to me.' * But do you love him ?' Dora made no reply. * Well, I will answer for you,' he continued ; * you do not, and you are going to barter your happiness in life for wealth and luxury, which can never satisfy the heart. You will be miserable." ' Do not speak in that way to me, Mr. Purvis. It is all settled. I ought not to have seen you. My parents, as you know, would never consent.' ' But they will consent to something infinitely worse, though I say so,' he replied. ' I cannot stay longer,' she returned ; ' I must say good-bye.' * For ever ?' he asked pleadingly. ' May I not see you once more ? Meet me at my sister's to-morrow at this time.' ' It is impossible ; pray leave me. I hear the drawing-room door opened.' Il8 LOVE'S LAUGHTER. ' Well, promise to meet me.' ' I cannot. Do, do please go ! My mother is coming down.' ' Then I will stay here and meet her. I will claim you, and tell her she has no right to destroy your happiness.' ' Oh no ! you could not do anything so dreadful — do go 1' ' Then promise ; to-morrow at six.' ' Oh, very well — anything ! But do go at once.' He pressed her hand and cheek, and had but just closed the hall-door, when Mrs. Millington's voice was heard. ' Dora, have you finished ?' ' Yes,' she replied, ' only just.' * Why, how pale you look ! What is the matter ?' ' Nothing. I do not feel quite well ; my hands — I mean my arms — have been so squeezed.' * You certainly are not well,' said her mother doubtfully, and wdth a feeling that she did not know everything. Dora was very thoughtful all the evening. Her look was vacant ; but if anyone could have seen her mind, they would have found it very full and violently agitated. Should she go to meet Mr. Purvis again? He ought not to have asked it. LOVES LAUGHTER. 119 Her conscience said she should not, but some other voice — was it that of her heart ? — said she should go. Moreover, she had made a promise — under pressure, no doubt, but still there was a promise. How often do we try to persuade our- selves that we are under some moral obligation to carry out our inner wishes ! Dora finally decided, though not without misgivings, that no harm could come from doing what was right and keeping her word. When the next day came, she felt so really ill that she was uncertain whether she should be physically capable of keeping the appointment. But in the afternoon she was better, and started to take tea with a friend at five. Thence she went on to the dreaded interview. Mr. Purvis and his sister greeted her warmly, and made her feel at home. The sister had some pressing business to transact, late as was the hour, and was obliged to leave them alone. It was a warm summer's day, and not only the cornfields but all other things were in a ripen- ing state. Dora's fears gradually subsided, her views changed, old feelings returned, and she felt happier than she had been for a long time. Before she left her decision was made. She knew that she was resigning wealth for love, and entering on 1 20 LOVES LA UGHTER. a battle with a hard, cruel world. But she was not without courage, and would have a strong arm to support her. Next morning Dora indited the following letter : ' Dear Mr. Jervis, * I write under a sense of the deepest self- abasement ; but I should be more culpable if I allowed you to remain in ignorance of the truth. I am ready to carry out my engagement with you according to my promise, but am bound in duty to tell you that I cannot give you that affection which a wife ought to feel for a husband. It costs me much to say this. You have always been most kind ; and I only hope that you will grant me your forgiveness, and will find some one more worthy of you than — ' Your sincere and grateful ' Dora Millington.' On the receipt of this, Mr. Jervis was full of astonishment not unmingled with indignation. He put on his hat and went off to ask for ex- planations from Mr. Millington. Both of them were agreed as to the behaviour of the young lady, and Mr. Millington offered to call her down to see Mr. Jervis and let him hear what she could LOVE'S LAUGHTER. 12 1 say in her defence. But on consideration it was thought that such an interview would be painful to all concerned and lead to no satisfactory result; and so, after privately speaking with his daughter in a somewhat irate mood, and making all the apologies he could, Mr, Millington with great regret saw Mr. Jervis and his sterling qualities cross his threshold for the last time. After this the Millingtons' was no longer a happy family. There was restraint ; the daughter was treated coldly by father and mother, and the latter was constantly throwing out covert allusions to what had occurred. The daughter was con- science-stricken, and became morbidly sensitive. She thought reflections were intended even when they were not, and could not help feeling re- sentful. One morning, when Mr. Millington came down to breakfast, his daughter was not sitting in her usual place. On the table a letter for him was lying directed in her handwriting. With some surprise at the circumstance, he opened it ; and as he read his countenance changed, and he became pale and motionless. His eyes seemed fixed on the paper; he read it again, and then turned it over and scrutinized it, back and front, as if it were some literary curiosity. Finally, he 122 LOVES LAUGHTER. threw it on the table, saying to his wife with marked emphasis : ' Read that !' It ran as follows : ' My dearest Father, ' By the time you receive this I shall be the wife of Mr. Purvis. It almost breaks my heart to do what is so much against your wishes and those of my mother; but I have no alternative, as the happiness of my life is at stake. You must know that for some time past the state of things has been most unpleasant for me — in fact, unendur- able. The house has not been like a home to me. Mr. Purvis is a most estimable man : I wish you knew his worth ; and I fully believe he will be everything I could wish. But I can never be perfectly happy without your forgiveness, which I hope you will grant me ; at any rate after a little time. And meanwhile, think kindly of, and make allowances for, * Your ever affectionate daughter, ' Dora.' Mrs. MiUington read this with more indignation and with less silence than her better half. Her anger overcame her sorrow. ' Impossible !' she exclaimed ; ' I cannot believe LOVE'S LA UGHTER. ' 123 it. Such disgraceful conduct — such ingratitude ; and after all that I have done for her ! Having the best masters for her ; taking her to the best parties ; sitting up till three or four o'clock in the morning, till I am sure I have been nearly dead ; always keeping her in sight ; telling her what to do and what to say, and only to know good people. You have not gone through all ihis, and cannot feel as I do ; indeed, I do not think men have any feeling !' ' My dear !' expostulated Mr. Millington. ' Oh ! don't make excuses for her ; that was always your way. This comes of your spoiling her, and of my indulging all her whims. I am to be the sufferer. Little does she care about her unhappy mother ' At this point she burst into sobs, and left the room. With some difficulty and the assistance of the balusters, she made her way upstairs, and when at the top called : ' Simpkins, here's something for you !' * Thank you, ma'am,' replied the maid, coming out with extended hand. ' Miss Dora has eloped — gone off with Mr. Purvis, that penniless lieutenant !' 'No! — has she, ma'am?' exclaimed Simpkins with apparent surprise. 1 24 LO VE'S LA UGIITER. ' It's a fact — they're married ! I see now why she would not have that good, honourable Mr. Jervis — oh no !' * Well, it is a bad business, ma'am,' replied Simpkins. ' But don't take on so ; it cannot be helped. She never cared for Mr. Jervis, and per- haps things may turn out better than you think. You cannot keep a young lady like a flower in a conservative ; and I never should be an a'vocate for her marrying a man with whom she had no symphony.' THE PRIMROSE. Art thou a colour, or a form Woven of liquid air, So freshly sweet, so softly tinged, So delicately fair ? When roses sleep in winter's night. Awaiting summer's morn, Thou heraldest advancing light, A rose without a thorn ! Pure maidenhood, which God above, Endues with heavenly grace, In tender modesty is seen Reflected in thy face. And when our Leader lately shone In wisdom and in power, When Flora strewed his path with gifts, He chose this simple flower. Then while it blooms with stainless hue, His truth shall never die : We think of him whene'er we see Bright primrose in the sky. BANDITTI. Brigandage seems to be the inalienable heritage of Greece, Italy, and Spain — the three downward extremities of Europe and civilisation. From piracy having been so rife in the Mediterranean, we might suppose the breezes of that sea to be somewhat overcharged with the spirit of liberty ; but we should perhaps be more correct if we concluded that the radiance of southern suns en- feebles and demoralises human nature. The lands are spellbound ; a sweet languor pervades the air, congenial rather to indolence and pleasure than to healthy and honest industry. The Celtic race, moreover, was never fond of toil, and, if a living must be made, would prefer to obtain it by some wild romantic enterprise than by under- going the drudgery of everyday work. Add to such considerations that these countries are crossed by chains of mountains, offering natural BANDITTI. 127 advantages for concealment, and the existence of brigandage is easily intelligible. But, granting every inclination and facility for law^less adventure, it is necessary to its success that it should possess the sympathy of the popu- lation. If the people generally were unwilling to shelter the offenders, crime would be kept within due bounds ; but where there is no just indigna- tion against it, life and property will never be secure. Under such circumstances, the violator of the laws assumes an entirely different character from that he bears in a settled country. He is a sort of national representative and champion of liberty ; he only robs and murders the rich, and has, perhaps, as many nice points of honour as a professed duellist. It is not long since the highwayman was regarded as a hero even in England — as a glorious successor of Robin Hood and of the merry men who lived under the green- wood tree. The laws were then arbitrary and distasteful, the people were uncivilized, and young men of good family often took to the road, even in this sober Saxon land. Brigandage has, therefore, various aspects and forms, corresponding to the characters and posi- tions of those who practise it, from the courteous chief to the vulgar footpad. Many of these men, 128 BANDITTI. to do them justice, have had great temptations to crime. In Ital}', for instance, the laws were, until lately, immoderately severe in their penalties against any who resisted the officers of justice ; and sometimes when a young man was called out as a conscript on the eve of his marriage, or the aged father of a family was about to be carried off to prison for a small debt, much sympathy would be awakened in the village, and some young men of more courage than reflection would offer resistance to the police. From that moment their fate was sealed ; nothing remained for them but death or the galleys. Under these circum- stances, they preferred andare in canipagna — to betake themselves to the mountains, where they became bandits (outlaws), and avenged them- selves by rendering the neighbouring roads unsafe for travellers. A Sicilian lady told me lately, to my surprise, that she had never seen a bandit — they kept mostly to a few localities — but she admitted that none of her family ever ventured far from the house without an armed escort. She took that favourable view of brigandage which is held in the island. 'There is nothing extraordinary in it,' she said. ' The Government keep up a large army ; ever}- man has to serve seven years, and. BANDITTI. 129 as they dislike soldiering, many run away. They cannot then obtain employment, and therefore become bandits. What would you have ? People must live. Well, they are not so bad as the Irish.' Some of the brigands, and especially some of their chiefs, are, or have been, clever and romantic fellows. They are fond of gay costumes, can sing good songs and relish good jokes, especially such as are of a practical kind. A Piedmontese gentle- man once gave me several instances of their indulging their humorous fancies, of which the following may serve as a specimen : Two Italian Counts (Pietro F and Giuseppe C ) had been chamois-hunting in the Alps, some fifty miles from Turin. As is usual on such expeditions, they had lived some days in the mountains, sometimes sleeping in cottages, some- times under temporary shelter, prepared by their guides. In a few days, after enjoying a very satisfactory amount of sport and discomfort, they retraced their steps, and stopped on the way back at a small albergo at the foot of the mountains. Here they paid off the guides, and remained to await their carriage, which was to convey them in the cool of the evening to Turin. Meanwhile, they ordered dinner and entered the principal room, which was empty, or at least 9 13 o BANDITTI. occupied b}' only one individual, who was sitting at a small table sipping some wine. His costume resembled that of the peasantry, but was of finer materials, and from his superior mien and finely- cut features the Counts supposed him to be some enthusiastic sportsman, who had adopted the country dress for convenience. Their conjectures seemed corroborated by his lithe, athletic figure, which seemed unaccustomed either to toil or ease, and bespoke him ' robust and hardy as a mountaineer.' The Counts felt that he was a man of their own mind, and on his making some casual observation, readily entered into conversation with him. They were not mistaken ; he knew w'ell every crevice and gorge in the mountains, and gave them sage advice as to where the best sport was to be found. Evening drew on, but the conversation was so pleasant that they lingered still, and the stars shone bright in the firmament before they rose to leave. Their sporting friend then asked them which direction they intended to take, re- commending the road through the open country, as the upper one was said, though he did not believe it, to be infested by banditti. ' Banditti !' exclaimed Giuseppe. ' We care little for them. We onlv wish we could meet a BANDITTI. 131 few. I have something here,' he continued, pro- ducing a brace of pistols, ' that would give them a warm reception !' ' And I too,' added Pietro, showing another brace. ' I have something pretty here ; not to mention a little Catalan knife, which might do good service at close quarters.' * You are brave men,' replied their companion, ' and will teach the fellows a good lesson whenever you meet them.' ' I should hke to send a ball through that rascal Marco,' added Giuseppe. ' Ah, Marco ! Yes ; but perhaps he is not so bad as you think him.' ' He had better not come near me, that is all I have to say,' replied Pietro. The stranger now took out his watch, and observed that it was growing late. He was fatigued, and wished to retire, so he wished the Counts ' good-night ' and ' Buoii' viaggio.' It was a moonless but a cloudless night, and in that southern climate the starlight made the roads and fields visible, while the trees covered them here and there with chequered and uncertain shadows. Marco — for it was none other — on leaving the travellers walked along the upper road they were to take, with an amused expression of counten- 9—2 132 BANDITTI. ance, from which those who knew him would have concluded that he was bent upon some merry- mischief. About a mile from the inn he met a peasant returning home, and, stopping him, ordered him to stand in a certain position on the edge of a neighbouring vineyard, and to hold a vine-stake — which he pulled out of the ground — to his shoulder like a gun. Having made this arrangement, he concealed himself behind some trees, and just as the Counts' carriage was driving past, rushed out and seized the horses' heads, vociferating : ' Halt ! halt ! Stop, in the name of Marco !' The horses offered little opposition to the order, and as for the coachman, he nearly fell off the box with terror. The Counts, however, hastily got out their pistols, and one of them took a deliberate aim at Marco's head. ' If you lire, you are dead men,' cried Marco. * My band are in the vineyard, and ready to open upon you. You can see them,' he continued, pointing to the man with the vine-stake. ' They are only awaiting my word.' * I certainly do see some one,' said Giuseppe, looking in the direction indicated. * So do I,' replied Pietro. * He has a large company, I have been told. What can two men' BANDITTI. 133 do against fifty or sixty ? We shall only lose our lives for nothing.' ' What do you want of us ?' asked Giuseppe, as, observing their change of voice, Marco approached the carriage window. ' Well, my friends,' replied the bandit, whose voice they now recognised, ' I shall not treat you as badly as you intended to treat me. You are brave men and true sportsmen, but I must have all the arms in your possession. Hand them out quickly, or it may be the worse for you.' After very little deliberation the Counts' guns and pistols were delivered up. ' And that little Catalan knife,' demanded Marco. ' Give it up at once, Pietro,' said Giuseppe nervously. ' Give it up, man. We shall be shot.' The demand was immediately, though reluc- tantly, complied with by his companion. ' You have another pistol somewhere,' con- tinued Marco. ' Come, out with it !' ' I have not,' returned Pietro. ' Giuseppe, give up the other pistol.' ' I have given up everything, as you well know,' answered Giuseppe. ' If there is another, you have it.' 134 BANDITTI. ' I ! What do you mean by that ? It is false. You want to keep back things, and to get me shot for having them. You're a dishonest, lying ' ' Well, signors,' interposed Marco, observing their alarm and recriminations, ' I will relieve you by telling you that I think you have been as good as your word. You have delivered up everything, and may now proceed on your way. You said you would teach Marco a lesson. I hope that he has taught you one, and that in future you will allude to him with greater respect.' The Counts returned to Turin dejected and disgraced. They had no opportunity afterwards of making use of the sporting gentleman's informa- tion about the mountain game, as the Government, in indignation at their pusillanimity, revoked their licenses for carrying fire-arms. Brigands are largely indebted for their immunity and success to the landlords of small country inns, who, in the course of their business, hear of all the movements in the neighbourhood. In some cases mine host is merely actuated by fear, but in others he is a wiUing instrument, and even a principal. Towards the end of the last century one of the dukes of Hamilton escaped in a most providential manner from the hands of one of these worthies. BANDITTI. 135 He was making the 'grand tour' according to the fashion of the times, well armed, and accom- panied by his servant. One night their carriage broke down in a somewhat unaccountable manner near a small roadside inn among the Apennines. They were compelled to stop there for the night, and after supper he and his man retired to their respective bedrooms. The Duke's apartment was spacious, but had nothing remarkable in its appearance ; and, being tired, he was about to undress hastily, when he observed that his large dog, his constant and faithful companion by day and night, was sniffing and looking about the floor in a very uneasy and dissatisfied manner. His attention was aroused, and, watching the dog, he looked under the bed, and there perceived some- thing that appeared like a trap-door. Having made such a discovery, he thought it would be better to stay awake, and sat up in a chair instead of going to bed, placing his pistols conveniently beside him. Sleep, however, overcame him, and he was awakened in the middle of the night by the growling of his dog. Opening his eyes, he saw a light coming from under the bed, and a man's head beginning to appear. He seized and cocked his pistols, calling out that he would shoot the first man that entered. Upon this the trap-door 136 BANDITTI. was immediately closed. The Duke remained on guard until daybreak, when he summoned the landlord to give an account of what had occurred. The man no sooner appeared than the dog sprang upon him, and it was with difficulty that they prevented his suffering summary punishment for his treachery. Inquiries were forthwith instituted, and it was found that many travellers had mysteri- ously disappeared in that fatal hostelry. This story has the more interest at the present time as several portraits of this (the eighth) Duke remain among the fading glories of Hamilton Palace. It will be refreshing to turn from such a dark episode to another story of the Piedmontese gentleman, which has more of a comic than tragic character, but in which the lord of the spigot again plays a part. A celebrated Italian physician, who, not satisfied with the legitimate game of his profession, was a keen sportsman and an unerring shot, met at an albergo near Milan a man not very dissimilar from the signer with whom the Torinese counts became so inauspiciously ac- quainted. A conversation sprang up, in which bandits and their proceedings were discussed ; and the doctor, alluding, with some natural pride, to the precision of his aim, said he much desired that one of them would cross his path. Armed BANDITTI. 137 with his trusty gun and pistols, he walked at large, and should like to see the man who would dare to molest him. Evening drew on, and his new acquaintance — a noted brigand and a bold whimsical fellow — left the inn first by about half an hour. Proceeding in the direction the doctor was to take, he broke off a branch from a chest- nut-tree, and, fixing it into the middle of the road, suspended from its top a small lantern he carried with him. Presently the doctor was heard approaching with his firm military step. On coming to a turn in the road he suddenly per- ceived the light, and halting, demanded : ' Who comes there ?' No answer was, of course, returned. The doctor drew himself up. A breeze agitated the chestnut branch, and the lantern moved. ' If you advance another step 3'ou are a dead man !' cried the doctor. The wind, however, took no notice of the threat, and the lantern continued to swing. ■ ' If you don't answer I shall fire !' shouted the doctor ; and suiting the action to the word, he raised his gun, took aim, and ' Basta /' said a voice close to his ear, and he found himself pinioned by an iron grip from behind. ' You must not waste your powder,' said 138 BANDITTI. the brigand, ' because I want it, and I also re- quire your trusty gun and pistols. And now,' he continued, relieving him of the articles in question, * you need not be alarmed, for I do not intend to shoot you ; but I shall take away your arms and ammunition, as you do not seem to me to make a good use of them.' But gay and fanciful bandits of this type are now becoming scarce ; a lower kind are more common, and the hero of story is not the sort of man generally encountered on the highway. A charming lady once told me that she was greatly disappointed on her wedding-tour in Italy at not seeing a bandit ; she was constantly looking out for one. ' But, my dear,' observed her husband, ' be consoled. You have probably met with many. You would not know one if you saw him.' ' Oh yes, I should !' she persisted. ' Indeed ! How ?' ' Oh, he would be a tall, handsome, romantic- looking fellow, with a velvet coat, and feathers in his hat.' Before they left the South the fair lady's illusion was sadly dispelled ; for they did meet a bandit in charge of a policeman, and a more ragged, dirty, unpoetical man she never beheld. BANDITTI. 139 The States of the Church were more infected with brigandage than almost any other part of Italy. It is said that some of Cardinal Antonelli's family made their livelihood in this unpleasant manner. The sacred city itself was until lately notoriously unsafe. I remember having heard of a remarkable misfortune which befell a celebrated antiquary, who, in spite of the warnings of his friends and the frequent reports of robberies, per- sisted in wandering about unattended in the less frequented parts of Rome. One night he deter- mined to pay a visit to the Colosseum, to behold it, like Alelrose Abbey, ' by the pale moonlight ' ; and certainly he was well repaid by gazing on that stupendous monument of imperial power when the spectral beams seemed to repeople it with the multitudes of the past, and he almost fancied that he could hear the shouting of the populace and the roaring of the wild beasts. Where were now those eager faces, those excited voices ? Silent and still. The acacia waves where great Caesar sat ; the cross stands where gladiators fought. Such and kindred thoughts occupied the mind of the student, when he suddenly felt himself rudely jostled by a dark figure muffled up in a long cloak. The person passed quickly away on I40 BANDITTI. to the other side ; but the shock had completely dispelled our antiquary's visions of the past, and recalled him to the vulgarity of the present. He did not like the rough treatment he had received, and, remembering the accounts he had heard of robberies happening in this neighbourhood, he immediately put his hand into his pocket to feel for his watch. It was gone ! He now became thoroughly awakened and considerably discon- certed. Where had the thief escaped to? On looking round carefully, he espied the man standing under the shadow of one of the small shrines then in the arena. Keeping his eye well on him, he stole round on the other side of the shrine, and before the man could see him, rushed out, and seized him by the throat, demanding, in the best broken Itahan he could command, that he should restore him the watch. The delinquent was evidently taken off his guard ; and the antiquar}^ who was more powerful than most of his fraternity, re- ceiving no answer, uttered several maledictory words, put his hand into the man's pocket, and took out the watch. He then felt satisfied and let him go, after dealing him a good punch in the ribs, and teUing him he should be thankful to get off so easily. Our friend returned home rather elated with BANDITTI. 141 his success, and congratulating himself on his presence of mind, but inwardly resolving to be more circumspect in his future explorations. After recounting his adventure to his famil}^, he retired, being fatigued, a little earlier than usual. Before getting into bed he proceeded, as usual, to wind up his watch. What was the matter with the key ? It did not fit. He now looked care- fully at the watch. No wonder he could not wind it ; although somewhat similar, it was not his. He looked round, and there beheld on the mantelpiece his usual companion, ticking away as merrily as if nothing had occurred. The alarm- ing truth now flashed upon him. He had not taken his watch out, and had purloined that of some other person ! He resolved to make his mistake known by an advertisement in the morn- ing. But before dawn he was awakened — or rather startled, for he could not sleep — by a tremendous knocking at the front door. Looking out, he saw half a dozen armed men in the Papal uniform, and soon heard that they had come to take him into custody for robbing a priest in the Colosseum. The police were admitted, and he explained the mistake and offered the watch ; but they shook their heads, said that several robberies had been committed latel}^, and that he had been 142 BANDITTI. observed loitering in a suspicious manner about ruins and in unfrequented localities. They refused to leave the house without him, and he began to think of stories about Italian prisons and tortures. Most fortunately, our learned friend was per- sonally known to the British Consul, and by means of the intercession and explanations of that official, the affair, which at first threatened to be serious, ^^■as satisfactorily arranged. PROPOSALS. When in London a short time since, I heard a popular West-end preacher take for the text of his last sermon for the season the significant words, ' We have toiled all the night and have taken nothing ;' and as these words must awaken a re- sponsive echo in the heart of many a Belgravian mother, we will adopt them as our own text for the present discourse. ' Toil,' indeed, it may suitably be called ; for what labour can equal that of attending concerts, teas, dinners, and balls, of arranging parties, of devising new dresses, and of discovering through occult channels the means and positions of all the young men who flirt about London drawing- rooms ? The work begins early in the morning, and at what hour is it finished ? And all this to procure marriages which at the best are of doubt- ful advantage. Girls are tricked out and educated in * the way they should go ' to such an extent, that it has been aptly said that when they are 144 PROPOSALS. not fishing they are mending their nets. Parents, meanwhile, are throwing away money in hopes of obtaining something more than they can fairly expect. Nay, mothers, it were better to la}- up silver store for your darlings, than to bid them dream of golden marriages. A few men become no doubt legitimate spoils of the chase, and more are caught by propinquity. There will always be some ready to sell themselves for money, but the great majority fall in love — cynical old bachelors say that it is always a ' fall.' Women educated at home, and fed with romances, in which, if a girl is amiable, she is re- warded with a coronet, little know how large is the world and how keen is competition. Like the budding poet who demanded a thousand pounds for his manuscript, many a mother imagines that if her girls were only introduced into good society, and would follow her excellent advice, they would have rank and wealth at their disposal. We can picture one of them coming up for the season, full of conscious pride, to bring her daughters upon the grand arena. They are invited to a ball ; the locality is fashionable, the rooms are spacious, the decorations superb. The young ladies are all blushes and trepidation ; the mother is radiant with prospective victory. PROPOSALS. 145 There is an array of good-looking young men, whose moustaches seem to distil sweetness, as their open waistcoats display generosity, and each is regarded as a virtuous prince ready to place his hand and heart and large fortune at the feet of the all-conquering Edith. There are of course other girls present, rather more than gentlemen, but they are so very inferior. The band strikes up ; the couples begin to spin round like teeto- tums ; but * no one has come to ask my girls to dance ! Oh, yes ; here is little Mr. Jones approaching. Well, he will save appearances, though he cannot be thought of seriously, as he is a fourth son.' Calm your feelings, my dear lady. I can tell you that, of the fifty men at this ball, thirty are younger sons, officers in the army, clerks, and barristers, who can scarcely pay for their sherry and cigars ; ten are married men ; five are hopeless old bachelors, who have long made them- selves comfortable ; and of the remaining five, the onty marrying men, two are in commerce and want ' handles ' to lift them, and the other three have country estates heavily mortgaged, and are looking out for girls with golden drops. Truly, madam, if you believe the French proverb that ' A man without money is a body without blood,' your maternal eye might well regard this company of 10 146 PROPOSALS. penniless gentlemen as a set of waltzing phan- toms. What then do we conclude ? That a girl may go to a hundred such parties without obtaining an offer ? Not so ; they will have many. Men who are undesirable are alwa3's ready to propose. I lately met a young fellow slightly in debt, who told me that he was deeply enamoured with a charming girl he had met at a ball. Her eyes were full of dark lustre, androses languished in her raven hair. He should never forget her — had spoken to her from his heart and confessed all. It was im- possible for him ever to love another. Six months later I saw him again ; asked him how he pro- gressed in his suit, and hoped it was prosper- ing. ' I fear not,' he replied ; ' for although we are fondly attached to each other, and always shall be, the old parents are obdurate.' ' Then you have her consent ?' ' Oh yes ; and I love her so dearly ; when I look at her sweet face, and the ripples of her flaxen hair, I think ' * Flaxen hair !' I exclaimed. ' Why, you told me she was a brunette,' ' No, a lovely blonde,' he returned ; ' perhaps you're thinking of Miss F . That affair was PROPOSALS. 147 off six months ago, and right glad I am to be out of it.' The next time I met this roving youth he had another flame still more brilliant, and was hard at work concocting some ridiculous poetry and love-letters. In short, he was suffering from chronic amorousness, just as some people are troubled with persistent gout or rheumatism. It was on a summer day, the season before last, that the following dialogue took place between two young ladies of my acquaintance. The}' had long been on sisterly terms, kept no secret from one another, and I believe had agreed that the one guilty of any reservation should be punished by exclusion from the other's room. I shall here call them Lottie and Effie, On the memorable morning to which I am about to allude Lottie paid Effie a visit, not very early, for neither had retired to rest before the small hours had grown to considerable proportions. * Well, Effie,' she said, entering ; ' how do you feel after the ball ?' ' Never better,' was the reply. ' How delightful it was ! But I was a little tired towards the end.' Lottie : Were you ? I do not know when I enjoyed myself so much. The music was perfect. You danced every set. 10 — 2 148 PROPOSALS. Effie : Until just at the last. What an excellent buffet ! I saw you in the supper-room with Mr. T . Lottie : Yes, he took me down. I never met a more gentlemanly man. Effie : Nor I ; and I believe he is rich. Lottie : So I should think ; but my father insists that he has nothing but his pay. Effie : Oh, that is absurd. You can see by his manner that he has always moved in good society. Lottie : Well, Effie dear, it has come at last — he has proposed. Effie : Were you surprised at it ? Lottie : No ; I can hardly say that. He had for a long time shown a preference both in words and actions. Effie : W'hat in particular led you to expect that he would make an offer ? Lottie : W^ell, you know, there are many little indications by which you can divine. There is the language of the eye. Effie : And the pressure of the hand. Lottie : And once Effie : How wicked you are ! I'm afraid it was twice. Lottie : Well, we will not say anything more about that. PROPOSALS. 149 Effie : But I confess that I felt very much confused when he took my hand. Lottie : Took your hand, the wretch ! I should think you did feel confused. Of course you with- drew it instantly ? Effie : Ye-es — that is, as soon as I could. Lottie : I own that I was surprised at his making a declaration at the ball. Effie : He never did so — he is not that sort of man. It was on Thursday, at that quiet little garden-party at Lady Badminton's that he pro- posed for me. Lottie : For you ! What do you mean ? It was for me, and at the ball last night. At this climax the dialogue ceased, both being lost in mute bewilderment. Explanations fol- lowed, and they finally agreed that Mr. T was the basest creature upon earth, and somewhat more deceitful than the serpent that beguiled Eve. Each, however, retained a firm conviction that she was the favourite, and that he had only pro- posed for the other in a fit of temporary insanity, or under the influence of an overdose of heady champagne. Thus we see that ineligible offers are by no means scarce. Many ' detrimentals ' find that they can amuse themselves in this way, feeling ISO PROPOSALS. certain that when their proposals are maturely considered no one will accept them. I remember well a garrison town, in which there lived a very commonplace but rich young lady, the daughter of a retired grocer, and it was said by some that whenever a fresh regiment arrived every un- married officer, from the colonel downwards, made her an offer. It was wonderful how she escaped so long, for they laid their plans and made their advances upon strategical principles, as though they were conducting a regular siege. But to descend from the general to the par- ticular, I will narrate the experience of an old friend of mine, Mr. S , who, although not a military man, was a member of a profession equally destructive. Having entered the Inner Temple, he duly ate the prescribed dinners, took chambers, and sat and sat — as long as Theseus, and with about the same amount of satisfaction. Being determined to become Lord Chancellor, he left no stone unturned, and knowing that one way of attracting business was to pretend that he had it, he seldom dined out, excusing himself by saying that he was so much employed, and that time was to him money. But all his devices, ingenious though they were, ended in disappointment ; he continued miserably poor, and in despair was PROPOSALS. 151 about to leave England and set up as a donkey- merchant in Texas, when by accident he became acquainted with a lady of position. Mrs. Dimont lived in the best part of London ; her carriage and horses were the envy of all Hyde Park 'gravel-grinders'; she gave large parties, and, notwithstanding her magnificence, was kind and affable. She even invited Mr. S to call, and expressed herself glad to welcome such a legal luminary to her house. He was equally delighted ; the appreciation seemed mutual ; and a thought suddenly flashed across his mind that perhaps he might not want the donkeys after all. To shorten my story, one fine day in the ' merry month ' found him stepping along Eaton Place in a smart new suit — which, owing to outstanding ' little accounts,' he had some difficulty in^ obtaining from his tailor — and asking himself would fortune now at length favour the brave. How his hand trembled and his heart beat as he rang the bell ! He was admitted to the lady, and after some general observations, summoned courage, told his tale of love, and declared himself ready to lay everything he possessed at her feet. Of course she was surprised, and blushed ; but as he grew more pressing, she admitted that she was not in- different towards him. There were happily no 152 rROPOSALS. parents to consult, and so the battle was now pretty well won. Half an hour later he was re- turning home an accepted man, looking into the shop-windows to see what was the newest style of furniture, and at the carriages to decide what kind of equipage he should select. The only cloud in the horizon arose about the settlements ; and to avoid questions about them, he redoubled his attentions, became passionately amorous, and assured his idol that everything should be hers, and that no legal contracts could be so strong as the bonds of love. These assurances were strengthened by frequent visits, which appeared the more valuable as they were taken out of the time which should have been spent on the busi- ness of his numerous clients. Thus the road was smoothed, the happy day arrived, and the united pair drove off amid the congratulations of a crowd of fashionable friends. After spending about a fortnight in Paris, Mr. S began to find that the slender supply of money he had obtained from an ' honest Jew 'was coming to an end, and that he must soon draw upon his wife's resources. The unpleasant subject of ways and means had never been touched on since their marriage, and nothing but sheer neces- sity could have induced him to bring it forward. PROPOSALS. 153 But there was no alternative, and therefore one day after breakfast he broke the ice. ' Heigho ! how sad it is that people cannot live on love without money ; is it not, dearest ? But we are compelled to think of earthly dross. You will scarcely believe that the sum I brought away with me from London is nearly exhausted.' ' Indeed ! you had better not run any risk, but write for more at once.' ' Yes, m}' love. The fact is, my professional income does not come in at this time of year ; and you know that I have not been able to attend much to business lately. I have been more plea- santly occupied,' he added with a complimentary smile. ' Well, at any rate you must not allow yourself to run short. You had better sell some of your securities.' ' No, I can scarcely do that. They are not easily convertible — just at present.' ' What, then, do you propose to do ?' ' Well, if you have no objection, to draw a cheque on your bankers.' ' My bankers ! Certainly not. I overdrew my account twenty pounds for my wedding ex- penses, which I was going to ask you kindly to pay up.' 154 PROPOSALS. ' That I am unable to do. We must wait till your di\idends come in.' ' Then we shall wait long enough. I had only two thousand pounds left me by my late husband, and that I spent properly, in living like a lady and keeping up a respectable appearance.' ' You don't mean seriously to tell me that you had only two thousand pounds when you were living at the rate of five thousand a year ? You could not have been so deceitful as to marry a man under such false pretences!' ' Pretences, sir ! Why, you never asked me about my means. And as you were doing so well at the Bar, I thought of course .they were of no consequence.' ' Doing well, indeed ! I never said that. I only said I had business; and if you had inquired, I should have told you that the only solicitor that employed me never paid any fees.' ' And have 3-ou no capital ?' ' None — except in debts !' 'Good heavens! — what an unprincipled man! And I thought we were going to be so happy, and have so much money. You are a heartless deceiver ! And I gave up for you that rich Mr. Blacking, the catsup-maker. What is to be done?' * W' ell, madam, I think, after your conduct, you PROPOSALS. 155 had better go and live with some of your relations, if any of them will take you. There can be no use in our keeping up this farce of love any longer !' ' Thank you, sir. I find you can be uncivil as well as dishonest. Allow me to advise you to return to your lucrative profession !' While this affectionate couple are settling their arrangements, we will make a few general observations. Very few of the girls who are ready to make imprudent marriages have any notion how to economise small means so that they may yield the greatest amount of comfort. And yet this is the most important problem in life ; and we may divide the world into good and bad managers. ' A penny saved is a penny gained ' is a wise proverb, for in the spending there is generally little pleasure even at the moment. On all sides people say they want money, and envy those who have it ; but the fact that they are still poor ought to show us that they are not in earnest. No ; the things they really value are those which money procures, and for which they are ever ready to part with it. They want houses, furniture, pictures, horses, rank, love, society, and regard these as more important than coin. The 156 PROPOSALS. worship of the golden idol is not so general as we might suppose from the din of the sackbut and the psaltery. How often do we hear a person descanting upon the value of money, and telling us almost in the same breath that he has expended a large sum upon some ridiculous hobby ! Taking, therefore, the view that people propose to themselves many different objects in life, and seldom that of accumulation, let us recommend young men and women who are looking forward to 'pairing time' to consider well and deliberately what it is they desire. It would evidently be a mistake for a girl, whose ideas of happiness centre in love, to marry a morose old man because he is rich, or for one who wishes to mix in society to unite herself to a handsome young fellow who has neither rank nor means. In the same way, a man who prizes beauty above all things should not marry an ill-favoured heiress ; nor should one who desires to rise and make a figure in the world think of uniting himself to a penniless wife. A certain amount of sympathy in taste is always essential. Let no one imagine that he can after- wards bend and mould another to his views ; rather let him seek one whose feelings naturally harmonize with his own. SCENTS. Mysterious spirits of the air, Companions of the gay and fair, Ye bring to me, hke evening chimes, The memory of happy times. How ye recall my childhood's play. And scenes and faces far away ! Across the magic bridge ye cast I am transported to the Past. Yes — in that well-remembered street ' Sweet lavender !' mine ear would greet. And in that garden — which I see — I plucked the rose ior pot poitrri. The fragrance of those distant flowers Has slumbered on through stormy hours, As petals, which my fancy took. Have slept within that disused book. There was a pre-historic time When not a scent in any clime Mellowed the gale, ere Flora's birth. Whose balmy breath perfumes the earth. 158 SCEjYTS. But when she heralded mankind, Of senses keen and tastes refined, Like music from her Hps and soul The varied scents began to roll. Light linden airs, and fragrant hay Refresh us through the summer-day, And honeyed blossoms odours yield In waves across the clover-field. High skirting the eternal snow The lonely perfumes richer grow, Where far above the Alpine cot Exhales the blue forget-me-not ; While on the Andes' shining slope Blooms the enchanting heliotrope — So sweet, that Indians think it stands Upon the verge of spirit lands. Soft spells — unheard, unseen, though near To evening and to lovers dear — Ye come to me, from days of yore. As when sweet breezes from the shore Of spicy Java seem to sigh To outward ships a sad ' Good-bye.' SUCCESSFUL MEN. There is something agreeable in contemplating those who have been successful, and the pleasure flows from our sympathy with the order of things, and is like that of looking at a spreading tree or lofty mountain. We are contemplating the grandest results of the system under which w^e live. Wonderful as are the floral and animal creations with which God has enriched this earth, we can look at nothing so marvellous as civilized man — the product of ages — surrounded by the achievements of his labours. And we feel sure that he will accomplish something still greater in time to come : and that those who successfully rise above their fellows will lead the world on to glorious destinies. I propose to give some examples from what has come under my own knowledge or that of my in- timate friends. The persons to whom I shall allude are all dead, but to avoid the risk of wounding i6o SUCCESSFUL MEN. susceptibilities, and give myself a free hand in writing, I shall call the persons I am about to describe Smith, Brown, Jones, and Robinson, with the kind permission of those popular heroes. The first man I shall introduce — 'Smith ' — did not, from the nature of his occupation, acquire wealth hke the rest. He was apprenticed, when very young, to a cobbler, or small shoemaker. From his earliest years he had a great desire for knowledge ; but, being all day hard at work on soles and ' uppers,' he had little opportunity for study. His master was an active, practical man, and had no idea of allowing the boy to waste time or candles upon reading books. So poor Smith's only way of gratifying his ruling passion was to save his halfpence, and buy candle-ends, by lighting which, when he was supposed to be in bed, he stole an occasional hour from his much needed sleep. A still greater difficulty was the purchase of books. Whenever he had a chance he would betake himself to an old bookstall, and look at the tempting display, as most boys do at the ' goodies ' in confectioners' windows. Some of the booksellers, seeing such a very poor little boy constantly hovering about, began to have some suspicion that his intentions were not SUCCESSFUL MEN. 16 r strictly honourable ; but still he continued to look and lonf^, and he told me that he remembered having sat down on a doorstep and shed tears because he could not afford to buy a book he saw on Natural Science. By means of his little savings, however, he gradually began to make some purchases ; and, when his apprenticeship was over, he obtained more money, and gradually acquired, without any teachers, a fair knowledge of Latin, mathematics, botany, geology, and chemistry. The discoveries of the microscope especially attracted him, and as he could not afford to buy one, he purchased some lenses, and manufactured an instrument for himself. He was fond of saying he made everything he had, even the boxes in which he kept his specimens. His collection of microscopic objects — amounting to several thousands — was most interesting. People often laughed at him, when they saw him ex- amining the surfaces of stones, but he told them that nothing was so bare that he could not find something on it. His microscope magnified two million times, and when he put on a high power he was obliged to have his head fixed in a frame, otherwise the motion would prevent his seeing. One of the principal difficulties he encountered was that he could not find appliances delicate enough II 1 62 SUCCESSFUL MEN. for preparing his specimens, as the finest needle looked thicker than a poker. His best in- struments were formed of spiders' bones. He had accumulated, before his death, a large amount of curious knowledge, and informed me that he had a theory, formed upon considerable observa- tion, that flies cut a wise tooth. His knowledge of these recondite subjects, and also of botany and geology, became gradually known, and he received an offer of a place in the British Museum worth -£"300 a year ; but he preferred to remain in his native town, where he obtained sufficient income by lecturing at schools, and exhibiting his curi- osities, to keep himself and his sister in comfort. At his death he left a choice scientific library, and bequeathed ;£'6oo to the Bristol Asylum for the Blind. When last I saw him he was lamenting the great increase of buildings, which obliged him to walk long distances in search of botanical specimens — for as some wildflowers, horehound for instance, follow the footsteps of man, others seem to fly from his approach. Smith became quite a characteristic of the neighbourhood in which he lived. I think that I can see him now, walking along in his brown coat, with his box in his hand. A rare figure of fun he was — tall and thin. His head, which had but SUCCESSFUL MEN. 163 little hair, was somewhat egg-shaped; his shoulders were very narrow, and his legs greatly bowed, so that his outline was not only comical, but conical. His countenance, however, redeemed all the rest : it was refined and intellectual ; his brow was marked with deep thought, and his eyes were bright and penetrating. Brown was in early life the conductor of an omnibus. An old commercial gentleman travelled up to his business every day by that conveyance, and became favourably impressed with the lad, who was always remarkably polite and attentive, as well as neatly dressed and good-looking. It happened that the old gentleman parted with his groom, and he thought he could not do better than try whether this young man would take the situation. Some conductors might have thought the place a little beneath them, but Brown was not that sort of man ; he felt obliged to his patron, and would not refuse the offer. In this decision he took the tide at the turn. He found in his new vocation time to improve his education, and the gentleman when he heard how well he was employed, gave him every facihty in his power. In the course of some years he had made such progress that, a II — 2 1 64 SUCCESSFUL MEN. junior clerkship falling vacant in the manufac- turer's house, he was appointed to fill it. Such men have this great advantage — that the same industrious habits which raise them to the first step continue to elevate them to the last. Brown managed his part of the business so well that he was soon promoted, and rose till he became foreman. The direction of ever3'thing was by degrees made over to him, and in a few years he was admitted as a partner. The old gentleman now retired with a good fortune, but, strange to say, he lost it all, and finally was de- pendent on the very man he had raised from obscurity. Brown became very rich, and sat for many years in Parliament, though not one of the more prominent and combative members. In private and in public he was a moderate, humble- minded man — a gentleman in the best sense. I have heard that his patron's family could not easily forget his origin, and were supposed to look a little superciliously at him. On one occasion he was sitting at the dinner-table with some of them, when a guest asked him if he could recommend a groom. Mr. Brown said he thought he could, and smiling over at one of his patron's relations, said : ' I think you can certify that I perfectly understand the duties.' SUCCESSFUL MEN. 165 Jones was brought up at a charity school, with which a rich citizen had endowed his native town. On leaving it, he obtained a situation as an errand boy, and owing to his carefulness and sagacity, his master, who was an auctioneer, thought him not unsuitable to take charge of his rooms while articles were on view previous to sale. From this he acquired some knowledge of the business, and was soon able to make out the inventories, and by degrees made himself an excellent accountant. Thus, while still young — though some people said he never was young — he was promoted to be the auctioneer's assistant, and in that position was brought into contact with many persons in the town, who were so favourably impressed with him that, when a clerkship was vacant in the local bank, he was able to obtain excellent recommendations. After this his course was tolerably smooth. By sedulous attention to his business he rose to be manager. When one of the partners died, he married his widow, and soon afterwards became one of the principals. The natural kindness of his heart was always reflected in his manners, though his language seemed a little quaint, for to the last he never altered his homely mode of speech. It is re- markable how long the phraseology of early i66 SUCCESSFUL MEN. life survives a change of circumstances. But his conversation was highly interesting, for he had known many of the eminent men of his time. I remember his giving me a valuable piece of advice, which I here pass on to others : * Now, Mr. , never you put your money into a private company : sure to come to " very sorry." ' Towards the end of his life his hospitality was profuse ; and he entertained sometimes the gentry, and sometimes the tradespeople, giving them all equally bountiful fare. To the clergy he was most considerate, and he willingly contributed his thousands to church building. Not only was he generous to charitable institutions, but he recommended several persons to bequeath money to them : and, indeed, without such munificence, most of them would languish, the mass of the population^ subscribing nothing. In the winter the doors of the bank were so closely besieged by the indigent, eager to share — not perhaps the good man's blessing, but his gifts — that sometimes he could scarcely make his way to his carriage. If he was somewhat indis- criminate in his bounty, and ' His pity gave, ere charity began,' the giver was more blessed than the receiver. SUCCESSFUL MEX. 167 Many of Jones's friends wished him to enter Pariiament, but he considered it his primary' duty to attend to his business affairs. He took, however, some interest in pohtics, and was one of those who nominated Mr. DisraeH when he first obtained a seat in the House. When I last saw my friend, shortly before his death, the Conservatives were in office. ' I have just seen Disraeli,' he said. *I thought, as it was so long since we had met, that he would have forgotten all about me, and I was about to pass him, but he stopped, and held out his hand, inquired kindly after my welfare and that of my family, and told me that if ever he could be of service to me it would give him the greatest pleasure.' The progress of Robinson was remarkable, from the fact that he commenced life as a journeyman tailor, and sat on the board for twenty years. During this time he married, and had several children ; and although his wages were only eighteen shillings a week, he contrived to save money. A friend proposed to him that they should join in taking a seam of jet which had been discovered near ^^'hitb3•, and the speculation proved successful. Robinson's partner, however, lived too fast, and scon getting into debt, was glad to sell him his share in the business for i6S SUCCESSFUL MEN. ^1,000. The tailor now became independent, for a considerable income could be realized by selling small pieces of jet retail to the numerous carvers of ornamental articles. Living in a busy port, he became a shipowner, and his profits and good nature may be estimated from the fact that one captain had lost three of his ships. He told me that he felt inclined to dismiss the man upon his first misfortune, but retained him on account of his wife and famil}-. He was doing a large business, but he was also a man of taste and acquirements, was well acquainted with geology, and very fond of antiquities. His house was a miniature museum, for the surrounding farmers knew him, and brought him any curi- osities they found. Here were urns, celts, flint knives and sling stones, and a strange mixture of things. He had himself ransacked all the neigh- bouring fields with such success, that his wife told me she one day threw out a large basketful of stones he had accumulated. His industry soon attracted attention, and one of the shrewd and shaggy inhabitants of Agarlythe determined to take advantage of him. This man went by the name of Flint Jack, and, from being a vendor of small antiquities to visitors, became a manufac- turer of them. SUCCESSFUL MEN. 169 One day as Robinson was wandering among" the picturesque and infirm houses of Agarlythe, an old dame told him, laughingly, that she had seen a man making a stone sugar-loaf. Not many days afterwards the lapidary (Flint Jack) called upon him with something mysteriously wrapped up under his arm. ' I have found a great treasure, sir,' he began solemnly ; ' a Roman mill. As you know the value of these things, I brought it first for your inspection.' Robinson looked at the stone he produced, which was well begrimed with earth and moss. ' Well, Jack,' he said, ' but it's imperfect; you have only one stone of the mill You could not grind corn with only one stone, could you ?' ' Why, no, I suppose not,' he replied, smihng. * What would the other stone be like, sir ?' Robinson described it. In two days the man arrived with it, made according to what he had heard. ' I've been most fortunate, sir. In digging about the place where I found the top stone, I have also found the lower.' ' Let me look at it,' said Robinson, and began to rub away some of the earth and moss. I70 SUCCESSFUL MEN. ' Oh, you mustn't do tliat, sir,' said the man. ' You'll make it look as if it was only just made.' ' Which it has been,' returned Robinson. ' You must go elsewhere with your spurious an- tiquities.' The next week he met an antiquary of his acquaintance, who came up to him with a beaming countenance. ' You may congratulate me. I am a fortunate man. I've just bought a real Roman mill. I've had to pay a good price, though.' ' Where did you get it ?' inquired Robinson. ' Oh, from FHnt Jack. He says it is the finest specimen that ever was found. Both stones are perfect — upper and lower.' I have seldom met a man immersed as Robinson was in the cares of commercial business who took so great an interest in scientific studies. He lamented his ignorance of botany, and when I went with him to look at the geological formations in his neighbourhood, would often stop and ask me the name of some wayside flower. Let me here observe, for the benefit of other aspirants, that all these men were thrifty, courteous, energetic, and persevering. They had common sense and reflexion ; but men of greater talent, marred by caprice, have been altogether SUCCESSFUL MEN. 171 failures. Thrift is necessary — if Smith had not saved his pence he could not have bought books or candle-ends, nor could Robinson have purchased his jet seam without a little store of gold. If Brown had been off-hand and independent in his manners, he would never have been promoted. Some of the best men are shy and reserved, or familiar, and so do not obtain credit for the good b.cart they possess. But nothing is more detrimental than to be sarcastic, and ' lose a friend for a joke,' except to be a scandalmonger. To speak ill of neighbours is not only immoral, but most im- politic. The ungracious tale is often whispered by malicious tongues to the subject of it, and everyone suspects that the man who will malign one friend will also speak lightly of another. Among things antagonistic to success in life may be placed early marriages, roving about, ' re- sources,' and amusements generally. Whatever, in short, leads to expense, encourages idleness, and diverts the mind from the main object. The more precautions we take the less we leave to chance, but still success must be always partly accidental. Generally it is desirable that a man should follow the vocation for which he has a natural bent, and we may add that few will persevere in 172 SUCCESSFUL MEN. working against the grain. The amount of a man's occupation depends upon the interest he takes in it. One who is following out a pet scheme will tell you that he is busy from morning till night ; while another, in an uncongenial em- ployment, will be looking for holidays, have his mind vacant, and be practically idle. But a wise man will often bend his tastes into agreement with his w^elfare. A large number of people would like to earn their liveHhood by literature, painting, or music : but such vocations are only suitable to men of private means. One in five hundred may succeed in them, but even Trollope would have failed only for his indomitable perseverance, and a clerkship in the Post-office, which supported him during the first ten years of authorship. The fine arts are much less remunerative than professions. I have seen a man in rags sketching with considerable taste upon the London flags, and I have heard a musician playing in the street whose touch bespoke life-long stud}', and who afterwards came round with his hat to beg for pence. The truth is that pleasant work is not lucrative ; a man must be paid for blacking boots, but no one will fee him for drinking a glass of champagne. For this reason, political occupa- tions are not remunerative, and few statesmen SUCCESSFUL MEN. 173 end their lives with more than they originally possessed. Men are not kept down, but elevated by those who rise. Those who make mone}' supply something desirable ; and as the lark, which soars into the sky, and pours forth its delicious melody, gives the listener more delight than it receives itself, so the treasures of the rich often afford more pleasure to the spectator than to the actual proprietor. It would be well that the affluent generally recognised this fact ; and, by regarding themselves as stewards and trustees, their possessions would have a value for them they never had before. There are, indeed, many who, at certain times, liberally throw open their parks and mansions, and give great enjoyment to the masses of the people. All, alas ! cannot be kings, and most men dis- cover by degrees that their fortunes are not destined to be magnificent. With the majority that remain stationary or recede, ' Youth is a blunder, and age a regret.' They are almost ready to exclaim in the words of the poet, ' Oh, thou voice within my breast, Why entreat me ? why persuade me ? When the steadfast tongues of truth, And the flattering hopes of youth, Have all deceived me and betrayed me.' 174 SUCCESSFUL MEN. It may console such to reflect that those who really succeed are never satisfied, and seldom con- sider themselves altogether fortunate. They have not won the good they desired : perhaps it existed only in their imaginations. Happily, as we advance in life, our desires are moderated. In the morning a man sets forth bright, hopeful, and energetic, but as the shades of evening close around him, and the time approaches when none can work, he feels a languor and satiety stealing over him, with a longing for repose. And so, as age draws on, and we see the impossibility of obtaining the prizes we once hoped for, we also feel, by a kindly dispensation, less anxiety for their acquisition. THE OAK. How grandly spreads the stately oak Its giant arms around, With countless sprays and filaments Above and underground. That tree against the hurricane For centuries has stood, For ages it will still remain, A history in wood. The cavalier in rich array Beneath its branches came, And made a courtly reverence To his brocaded dame. But if to grace her glossy hair He gaily plucked a leaf. Thy ceaseless register was there To criminate the thief. And every season as it flies Is noted dry or wet, With every ill and injury In rings and fissures set. 176 THE OAK. So in the growth of human h'fe A history appears, Of joyous love and hateful strife, Of laughter and of tears. Each whim indulged has left a scar. Each curbed desire a grace, All habits formed have set their lines Engraven on the face. And whoso reads the lore aright, In mystic symbols wrought, Will find his destiny inscribed Upon the leaves of thought. The greedy soul has store of gold, But neither friends nor fame, The genius shivers in the cold, Although he owns a flame. And as we see the mind of man Reflected in his state, So each bequeaths some good or ill Beyond his estimate. The humblest in the world's account May shed a little ray, To light the toiling traveller Upon his homeward way. YACHTING. CHAPTER I. An Island Romance. LUNDY consists of a mass of rock some four or five hundred feet in height, standing at the mouth of the Bristol Channel, and forming a gigantic natural breakwater against the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. The fury of the gale is some- times here so great that it sweeps away the roofs of houses, and carries them, I am told, a distance of a quarter of a mile. I have seen workmen blown into the yards of houses there. The land is mostly in pasture, and nothing aspiring to the name of a tree can be seen in the whole island, yet the slopes and crags are bright with wild- fiowers ; the scabious wears its deepest blue, and the honeysuckle exhales its sweetest perfume. But everything is in miniature. The wild roses 12 178 YACHTING. bloom six inches from the ground, and the fox- glove seems to suit the measure of the little * folk ' after whom it is named. When I visited Lundy the granite company was in existence, and there were three hundred quarrymen living there. I was compelled by stress of weather to stay in the island for ten days, and was accommodated with very inhospitable apartments, without carpet, blind, or bedstead, in one of the stone-cutters' cottages. Some furniture was brought up from the yacht, and by degrees I arranged matters, became accustomed to the rough life, and made acquaintance with some of the inhabitants. Among those I met was an old sailor, who had served upwards of forty years in the navy, had retired with a pension, and was regarded as a great authorit3^ He was a man of cyclopean build — a veritable sea monster. Masses of thick shaggy hair grew wild upon his head and face, and he wore that grand but good-humoured expression which we usually assign to the British lion. I observed him striding across the moors, regardless of rain or storm, accompanied only by his heavy staff, or rather pole, and a large Newfoundland dog. I soon discovered that he was a 'character'; his habits, address, and ideas AN ISLAND ROMANCE. 179 according well with his appearance. He knew the favourite haunts of the falcon and gannet, and how to surprise the seal in its dark abode. Towns he abhorred ; the fresh sea-breezes braced his frame, the expanse of sea and sky inspired his soul. To place him, he said, in a street among houses and smoke would be like caging one of the free birds that flew around those crags. He seemed sensible and straightforward, and I never should have supposed that a man of such elevated views could have been affected by human weak- ness. I should have thought him as proof as St. Anthony against all the charms of the fair ; but, alas for human frailty ! he was not — ' So good or so cold, As not to be tempted by woman or gold.' This sea-girt rock bore a lovely maid — a bright wild-flower — upon its rugged breast. She was the only child of one of the principal in- habitants, and was the spoiled pet, not only of her parents, but more or less of the whole island. It was about two years before our arrival that the old seaman had discovered this airy retreat, so congenial to his tastes, and the islanders had congratulated themselves on his establishment among them. A man who had visited all parts of the globe in the service of Government during 12 — 2 I So YACHTING. forty years was no small acquisition where there was so little variety and information. To no one was his advent more welcome than to Maria's father, who was tired of the dull society of un- educated labourers ; and many a long winter evening did they wear out pleasantly together over the bright hearth, while the veteran narrated, to the admiration of the little household, the dangers he had encountered and the wonders he had seen. The old sailor seemed to appreciate the quiet family and their homely cheer, and became a constant visitor at all hours of the day, while Mr. Dupper (such was his name) thought himself highly complimented at the condescension of so great an authority. He accounted for it, slyly, by observing that his visitor was very fond of telling his stories ; a correct surmise, for it afforded exercise not only to his memory, but also to his invention. At length success rewarded his exertions. One afternoon Maria did not return to dinner at the usual hour ; her parents waited and waited, but without avail. Such an absence had never occurred before, and not being able to find her anywhere in the neighbourhood, the horrible thought suggested itself that she had fallen over the cliffs ; such an accident might happen — it often did to the cattle grazing along the slopes. AN ISLAND ROMANCE. i8i Bewildered and powerless from apprehension, the father at once thought of applying to the old sailor for advice and assistance. He made his way to his house, but when he arrived found the door fastened, and no one within to answer his demands. He looked all along the cliffs on the north of the island, thence made inquiries at the quarries ; walked to the very edge of the ' Limekiln's ' abyss ; and finally proceeded in despair to the landing-place. There he learned the real cause of his daughter's absence. She had eloped with the old sailor, and crossed to the mainland in the skiff, which had just left. Pursuit was impossible, as there was no com- munication except twice a week, and that by this very packet. The father was furious, the mother inconsolable, and not even comforted by a letter, which had been left for her by her daughter, stating that they were to be married next day, and that she would return in a week. She vowed that she would hold no communication with the perfidious wretch who had thus violated the laws of hospitality, or with her daughter, who had connived at such disgraceful conduct. By degrees, however, she became more resigned, and felt that she could not entirely discard her only child ; but still she spoke with an almost unnatural acerbity 1 82 YACHTING. on the subject, and told me that she would sooner have seen her daughter dead than married to such an old man, and that her only consolation was that the doctor had informed her that Maria would not, under any circumstances, have lived more than a few years. The daughter, whom I frequently saw, did not appear to take such a dismal view of affairs. She was too much occupied in dancing her baby to think of any- thing else, and as for the captain, he bore his age as lightly as old Charon, and was a remarkably hale and jovial fellow. Lundy enjoys one advantage, which later events have led me more fully to appreciate. There are no ' patriots ' there. I may say there could be none. No one could set his foot on that rock and say, ' This is my own, my native land.' I was told that no one was ever born there, for that when the women became * interesting ' they always crossed over to the neighbouring coast. There is a considerable amount of fish in the sea about Lundy, and between this and Tenby they dredge up the ' Tenby ' oysters. The place swarms with seabirds, and our men were con- stantly collecting the eggs, which were in flavour like ducks' eggs. The shell is white, covered over with curious marks, hieroglyphics of the sea, and AN ISLAND ROMANCE. 183 two are never found alike. When the gale had passed and the weather became fine, I rowed round with my companions, Mr. and Mrs. Wilt- shire, to visit the large caves on the north-west of the island. CHAPTER II. The Coast of Ireland — A Nationalist. The night on which we sailed from Youghal to Cork was beautifully clear — ' as clear as a bell,' to use old Tom's expression. The moon shone high in the heavens, and the coasts and headlands stood out in bold relief. Cable Island with its tower, and Ballycotton Island with its lighthouse were soon passed, and now, rounding Poer Head, we pass through a narrow channel and enter the Cove of Cork — a magnificent hill-girdled expanse, lit up by the lights of vessels as by clusters and lines of stars. Brown objected to our proceeding to Cork, as once when his father moored alongside the quay there they lost many articles out of the vessel. The depredations were generally committed during the night, and his father at length taxed his ingenuity and invented means of detection, consisting of rows of fishing-lines and hooks con- 1 84 YACHTING. nccted with bells set round the bulwarks and across the decks. This device proved successful. At midnight the bells rung out an awakening peal. Old Brown rushed up the companion-ladder with his gun and let fly, and, although he hit nobod}-, he brought down his man. The thief had pro- ceeded so noiselessh' that he had actually been able to detach the stove without being heard, and had fastened it with straps across his back. But as he was in the act of passing over the plank to the shore with it, he came in contact with some part of the alarum, and the report of the gun im- mediately following, startled him so much that he fell into the water, and being unable to disengage himself from the stove, he sank to the bottom and was drowned. It was not surprising that with such unpleasant reminiscences as these Brown should be unwilling to lie at Cork, and we accordingly anchored at Passage. The da}' after our arrival the wind shifted to the south, and so strong a gale set in that, although within the Cove, the waves rose very high, the men were obliged to sit up all night, and it became evident that if we wished to be comfortable we must betake ourselves to what Brown called the ' best ship ' — i.e., terra firma. We accordingly proceeded to the hotel and con- THE COAST OF IRELAND. 185 gratulated ourselves on obtaining rooms, for it was nearly full. We ordered dinner at seven, and in the meantime strolled along the quay to look at the crowd of emigrants preparing to embark for America. Their habiliments and ' properties ' were of the most strange and non- descript character. Most of them seemed op- pressed with grief at the prospect of leaving the ' ould counthry.' Some were surrounded by friends and relations, and openly gave way to their feelings ; while here and there a man or woman would be seen sitting alone in silent and thoughtful sadness — the very picture of desola- tion. The panting noise of the little steam tender seemed a relief to the scene, and soon all was bustle, and most of the emigrants were safe on board of her, and were steering for the great black ship in the distance. We could not help remarking the demonstrative manner in which the people wished each other ' good-b3-e,' and thought it especially strange that not only the women but the men should be kissing each other. One old woman especially attracted our attention. She was sitting on a stone and swaying herself backward and forward. I asked her whether she were going to emigrate. ' No, sir,' she replied ; ' but I'm thinking of my i86 YACHTING. only son, who's going to join his brother in America.' ' America is a better country than this,' I replied. ' But I can feel for you. It is sad to be so far removed from those we love.' * Shure, an' it isn't the distance I'm thinking about at all — at all,' returned she. ' It's the danger in crossing the say — perhaps he might be dhrowned. I suppose you've been on the say, sir ?' ' I should fancy so,' I replied, thinking of my voyages across the channel. ' I am often at sea — the ocean's my home.' ' The Lord have mercy on you, sir ! I suppose you'd think nothing of going to America and back ?' ' Oh, nothing whatever.' ' Lord preserve you, sir ! but you're a fine gintleman ! The poor people hereabouts have a great dread of the say ; and when anyone is \ going to emigrate, they follow them through all the village screechin' and bawlin' for fear they'd be dhrowned, and sometimes there's a regular funeral.' We took a general survey of the picturesque neighbourhood, and returned to the hotel, accord- ing to appointment, at seven. We seemed, how- A NATIONALIST. 1S7 ever, to have arrived too soon, and seven o'clock struck, and a quarter, and half-past, and still there were no signs of dinner. We had lunched on board somewhat earlier than usual, and began to feel impatient ; but we applied in vain to the bell, for no response could be obtained. At length, at a quarter to eight, the waiter appeared open- mouthed, as if he could not imagine why we were making such a disturbance. A glance sufficed to convince us that we had been committed to the mercies of a ' character ' — an Irish character — one of those specimens with which the green isle abounded in the good old days of Spencer, when the glibb* and mantle were in fashion, and the pooka and lurikeen-j- haunted the mountains, but which in these levelling times of steam and book- learning are fast fading from our path. He was a short stubbed man, with a great shock of black hair. ' Dinner !' I exclaimed impatiently, taking out my watch. ' Dinner ! It now only wants a quarter to eight, and I ordered dinner for seven. I am as hungry as I can be.' 'Are you, sir?' he replied complacently, flicking a fly from the table. ' I'm very glad to hear it ; it's a sign of good health.' '" Longhair. t Sprites. i8K YACHTING. ' Oh, I dare say it's a very good joke, but it's bad fun to be kept waiting an hour for one's dinner. When will it be ready?' ' Faith, sir, and that's more than I can tell you. It's all the cook's fault, sir. Between you and I, sir, the cook's a slow man, but he's a sure one, sir — he's a sure one.' Finding that expostulation was useless, we became resigned, and -determined to thank our stars if anything eatable appeared before mid- night. The little man appeared to have an immensity of work on his hands, and as the corridors were very long, and his legs very short, and his head, though large, not of the kind likely to save his heels, he probably had more to do than he could well perform. Shortly after eight, however, he appeared with a tureen of vegetable soup, followed by an immense joint of beef, which he had great difficulty in placing on the table, and at which, when he had accomplished the feat, he looked with great admiration, observing that it was an Irish joint — ' cut and come again.' Next came a most unnatural chicken, inasmuch as it had three legs and only one wing, and finally a savoury omelette, which was well made. The little man became meanwdiile very com- municative, and as we were strangers we were A NATIONALIST. 189 glad of any information he chose to impart. He told us that four emigrant ships left Cork every week, carrying nearly three thousand people. ' Faith, and it's a pity to see them laving the fine counthry, for there isn't a finer counthry in the world, sir, and all because of the landlords and the bad government. Why, do you know, sir, that if a man here don't pay his rint, they think nothing of turning him out of his farm, and maybe he hasn't got anywhere else to go to.' ' I suppose so,' I replied ; ' but if the rent is fair, they ought not to complain of that.' ' Sure, sir, and isn"t it a shame to be turning honest men out, and all because of the palthry vint ? If anyone was to turn me out, I'd shoot him as soon as look at him 1' he added, burst- ing out into a horse laugh. ' I'm glad, then,' I observed, ' if most of the Irish think as you do, there are so many police about.' ' Oh! the p'lice is it? Faith, then, I don't much hould to them. I think they're a decaitful sort of people. They never let anyone know before- hand what they are going to do. Sure and isn't it a pity to see all the finest of bafe and mutton going out of the counthry, and they themselves living on Ingin mail ?' iQo YACHTING. ' I thought,' I interposed, ' that the people principally ate potatoes ?' ' No, sir, Ingin mail. And to see all them beautiful pigs going away, and they starvin' themselves to feed thim, and not able to enjoy thim after all !' ' It is,' I replied, ' very unfortunate, and I think the state of things deserves the attention of government. But no real improvement will ever be wrought in any country, unless the people depend on their own exertions.' (I should here observe that during this con- versation several bells were heard ringing in different parts of the house.) ' I think,' added Mrs. Wiltshire, who had not quite forgotten the long time w-e had been kept waiting, ' that the Irish are not very thoughtful.' ' No, they're not, ma'am. They're too nawble minded to think about trifles. They're a nawble minded people, ma'am. It's a grand thing for a man, while he ates his breakfast, not to know where he'll get his dinner or supper. An English- man, when he is ating one mail, w^ould be thinking of another.' (The bells now began to ring more violently.) * It's a pity, sir, to see such fine people desertin' A NATIONAL/ST. 191 the counthry ; and the worst of all is that wher- ever they go they call them Irish.' ' Some of the emigrants return from America,' do the}' not ?' ' They do, sir. The climate sometimes does not agree with their system, for they're laving the most beautiful climate in the world.' ' Yes : I believe the temperature here is very agreeable. You have no frost or snow ?' ' Oh, plinty, sir, plinty of frost and snow, but frost and snow is not cold in Ireland. It's an iligant climate, sir, and a line soil,— a land flow- ing with milk and honey, as Tommy Moore says ; and to see such a counthry filled with these absentees !' ' But you have some good residents, some patriotic men. There is Mr. Maguire. Is he a man of property ?' ' Faith, an' he's not, sir. He's always dragging the devil by the tail.' ' That must be an unpleasant occupation. Well, you've Mr. Donomore,' • Mr. Donomore ? Shure, and he's a beautiful man, sir; he's something like you, sir, and he can trace his pidigree up to Noah's ark. He's a thorough Irishman, just the same to the poor man as to the rich. A manlike me might go and 192 YACHTING. shake hands with him in the House of Parhament, and maybe when I'd turn my back he'd be talking to a Duke or a Marquis.' ' Is he w'ell off?' I inquired. * Begad, he's not, sir. But he wants plent}' of money, for he's a fine gintlcman, sir. Didn't he drive eight horses when he was over there in France ?' ' Eight horses ! That must have been very expensive.' ' Very, sir — that's his nawble sperrit, sir. You can't subdue the nawble sperrit of an Irish- man.' The house was by this time in a complete uproar ; doors were heard opening, bells were ringing, and cries of 'Waiter !' were resounding on all sides. ' Faith, and I believe it's me they're calling ! exclaimed the little man, as if a new thought had just occurred to him, and, slapping his leg, he disappeared from the room with an expression of indescribable drollery. A large part of the county Cork belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, an excellent landlord, erring, if at all, on the side of generosity. These lands were once the property of the Earl of Desmond, a man of English descent, but whose family, like THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 193 many others, became rebellious when settled in these outlying districts. He was a wild, unedu- cated and tyrannical man, little different from the old Irish people by whom he was surrounded. On being defeated, he lost his property, which was given to Captain Raleigh for his services. Thus the county became connected with that eminent man, who is said to have resided as Governor at Youghal. His house is still known there — unpretending, though suitable for one of taste and refinement, its inconsiderable size and Elizabethan gablets give it externally the appear- ance of a large cottage ; but upon entering, the breadth of the staircase, with its massive oaken balusters, and the arrangement and proportions of the panelled rooms, are such as to produce a striking effect. One high chimneypiece is especially prized, for in the centre of its carved embellishments there is a remarkable head, supposed to represent Raleigh and to have been taken from life. The house now belongs to Sir Pope Hennessey. Higher up the ' Swift Awniduff, by Saxons called Blackwater,' stand the commanding heights and towers of Lismore. Here is another memory of the great man, not indeed in the battlement and lordly hall, but in an old portion of the building which reminds 13 194 YACHTING. US of the modest house at Youghal. On the banks of a river which flows alongside the Blackwater, and is therefore called the Bride, we found another in- teresting souvenir. The owner of the Castle of Lisfinney — Major Croker, a worthy descendant of a family long settled here — was wearing a watch which once belonged to Raleigh. It is a curious and elaborate specimen of antique workmanship, large and heavy ; and the outer gold cases have been reduced by constant wear to the tenuity of silver-paper. Those old watchmakers must have done their work well, for it still kept time excellently, although the owner's father took so little care of it that he frequently carried it with him in the hunting-field. Boyle found in Ireland the El Dorado which Raleigh in vain sought on the Spanish main. He was a law student, too poor to complete his course, and so became a clerk to Sir Richard Manwood, in the Court of Exchequer. But being a man of great energy, he soon resigned his goose-quill and determined to try his fortunes in the wild West. He arrived in Ireland just three hundred years ago, on June 23, 1588, and thus enumerates his worldly possessions on landing : * A taffata doublet and a pair of velett breeches, a new sute of laced ffustian, cutt upon taffata, a THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 195 bracelett of g^old worth x/., a diamond ring, and xxvii/. iiis. in money in my purse.' Starting with this slender capital, he rose so rapidly that in a few years he was able to purchase Raleigh's estates. But he not only made good bargains in land : he promoted manufactures, especially iron-works, and built churches and schools — in short, transformed the face of the country. He elevated the people as well as himself, and now sleeps beneath a monument of sculptured alabaster in the church beside Raleigh's house at Youghal. His son built a great part of Lismore Castle, and in the middle of the last century the daughter and heiress of the line married the Duke of Devonshire, by which the property passed to the Cavendish family. The late Duke seems to have succeeded, not only to the possessions, but also to the ambition of the ' great Earl ' of Cork. His palatial build- ings at Chatsworth are well known, and his great structures of glass, superintended by his gar- dener Paxton, may have suggested the Crystal Palace. Towards the end of his life the Duke lived much at Lismore. On his return from England, as he passed in his carriage and four through the crowded streets, he was hailed with enthusiastic 13 — 2 196 YACHTING. acclamations, and the night was not allowed to pass without a general illumination. He was usually accompanied on his visit by a large party of friends, who made the halls of the old castle ring with festive revelry, and, in short, as the master of the hotel observed to me, ' had he lived a few years longer he would have made Lismore Lismore.' But he was not content with mere hospitality : he always left behind some trace of his constructive and renovating hand. He transformed, by his golden wand, the heavy stronghold of the Earl of Cork into an enchanted castle. He raised the towers, and clothed the interior walls with Moorish and Alhambraic splen- dours. There was always some improvement in progress, much to his satisfaction, more to that of his workpeople. These constant alterations, how- ever, were not only vastly expensive, but some- times caused inconvenience. I heard a story very characteristic of the time and place. One of the Duke's coachmen and a footman were accustomed to precede him from England, and on one occa- sion had to be quartered at an hotel in the town, as their usual apartments were being ' improved.' Next day the Duke's agent — to whose watchful care he owed much — met one of these men walk- ing about the town. THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 197 * Well, James,' he said, ' how did you fare at the hotel ? Everything comfortable ? I hope they gave you a good dinner.' ' Well, yes, sir,' replied the man in livery. ' We have no fault to find with the cooking.' ' And,' continued the good-natured agent, 'they gave you some wine ? I ordered a bottle of sherry for you, as it was the first day.' ' Sherry, sir ?' replied the man superciliously. ' Yes, sir — hem — they certainly did give us a bottle of sherry ; but, to say the truth, it's a wine that neither I nor Smith cares for.' * Indeed ! I am surprised to hear that.' ' No, sir ; we prefers champagne.' ' Champagne ! Are you at all aware of the price of it ?' ' Can't say as I am, sir. W^e haven't nothing to do with the 'ousekeeping.' ' Well, I'll tell you. It's at least ten shillings a bottle ' (the duty was then high), * and I am certainly not going to order it for you.' ' Oh no, sir ! It will not be necessary for you, sir,' returned the other blandly. ' We shall order it for ourselves. We are always accustomed to have it at home, and we are sure his grace would not like us to be without it here.' We might at first suppose that this was some 198 YACHTING. attempt at imposition, but the Duke was princely in his profusion. Peer and peasant were treated by him with equal hospitality. He celebrated his visits to Lismore by a series of balls, not only for the nobility and gentry, but for the tradespeople and even the labouring classes, and made no in- vidious distinctions in the provision he made for their cofmort. He was always present, and made a point of leading off with one of the best-looking girls. Even when old and infirm, and no longer able to trip it to light measures himself, he still showed the pleasure he took in the enjoyment of others by having his chair placed in the ball-room, where he could witness the gay scene. He often made handsome presents ; but perhaps the little articles he turned upon his own lathe, though of small intrinsic value, were the most prized. The present generation of Irishmen are a great improvement upon their fathers in appearance and phj'sique. It is surprising that such a fine body of men should be raised on mere potatoes and milk. Their weakness is unfortunately in their judgment, and the average of lunacy is high. Many of the children are good looking, and some of the girls are remarkably handsome until they approach twenty-five, when they generally begin to fade. You never hear an Irishman speak of a THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 199 ' fine woman,' but always of a ' pretty girl;' and if he mentions an elderly woman he usually speaks of her with disparagement, even when he dees not ungallantly call her an ' old hag.' The virtue of Irish women has been sufficiently commended in song, and they have been praised at the expense of their English sisters ; but such comparisons are unjust. There are few large towns in Ireland, the priests strongly condemn profligacy, and con- sidering everything, I think there is small cause for such invidious laudation. In the course of conversation with the Irish peasantry, I have observed that many of their peculiar expressions are really old English forms, which have become obsolete here. Among them I may notice the use of the ejaculation * Faith ' and ' I'm in dread,' meaning ' I am afraid,' and ' to make a compliment ' — that is, to give a present. Languages are always affected by geographical position. In America and Australia, as well as in England, many new words are being intro- duced ; and the time will come when the lan- guages will be foreign to each other. 200 YACHTING. ERIN. There lies an island in the sea, Off England's western shore, Famous for arms and minstrelsy And legendary lore. This lovely land in ancient days Much favour found with God, And saints and hermits all its ways With holy feet have trod. The soil is bright with emerald hues Not elsewhere ever seen ; Nature herself appears to choose The ' wearing of the green.' Sprightly Euphrosyne is there And Wit's ecstatic soul. And Genius with her garlands rare To crown the flowing bowl. Alas ! that words and deeds unkind Should mar such magic powers ; We seek the honey-bee, but find A wasp among the flowers. ERIN. Why should contentions in the land Thy heavenly face defile ? We offer thee a loyal hand, Oh ! meet us with a smile ! Thy sons have borne Britannia's shield And shone with her in glory : Linked with her fate in many a field Of ne'er-forgotten story. The islands are the same in speech, The same in genial weather ; Then let us not create a breach Where God hath joined together. Let old dissensions be forgot In union and repose, And friendship bind with silken knot The shamrock to the rose. 202 YACHTLXG. CHAPTER III. Priests and Peasants. There are, I believe, no people more religious than the Irish, but we must especially bear in mind that religion depends somewhat upon senti- ment, and is seldom able to hold its ground against worldly interests. They may also be called ' moral,' living in rural districts, where the light is tolerably strong, and the wife with her ten children would be apt to punish delinquencies with severit}'. But granting that the Irish, both Protestants and Roman Catholics, have more religion than the English, I consider that often it is of a more polemical than rational kind, and frequently super- stitious. A shrewd, intelligent gamekeeper of a friend of mine, being asked by him whether he really believed that the priest could turn him into a goat, replied with emphasis, ' Faith, to be sure I do.' Enter any of the Roman Catholic chapels, and you will invariably find peasants devoutly on their knees before the images or pictures of the Virgin and Saints. They are not worshipping them, we are told — the priests forbid that. They are merely beholding them as emblems of some- PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 203 thing greater. But, in truth, superstition under- hes the system, and a behef is encouraged in charms, holy candles, etc., which is found not unprofitable. I remember a 3'oung lad}', who took a great interest in my welfare, pressing me much to wear a little thing like a pincushion tied round my arm, when I was recrossing the channel, as it contained a picture of the Holy Virgin, and would preserve me from shipwreck. Many ecclesiastics would be unwilling to lose these sources of profit, and they are always very active in collecting money, though they seem to derive little advan- tage from it. That mysterious body — the Church — absorbs and dissipates their wealth. ' Poor Father H ,' exclaimed one of that worthy priest's parishioners to me, ' he is obliged to be in the chapel at seven o'clock on these cold mornings.' ' But he has curates,' I replied ; ' why does he not allow them to perform this unpleasant duty ?' ' Oh, that would not answer at all !' was the response ; ' he has to hold the plate at the door.' ' With us,' I observed, ' a churchwarden or sidesman would perform that office.' ' It would not do here,' she returned ; ' he would get nothing, for Father H has to call the people back if they do not put in enough.' 204 YACHTING. An instance was told mc in which a priest would only allow people to enter the chapel in single file, in order that the plate might be duly honoured. He stood with it himself at the door to enforce this regulation. The obstruction thus offered caused the crowd outside rapidly to in- crease, and some discontent began to be mani- fested. But the priest, firmly wedged into the doorway, stood his ground like a man and a Catholic. At length a surging movement w^as visible in the crowd, a rush was made, the ortly obstacle was overthrown, and the eager worshippers made their way into the chapel over the body of their prostrate priest. Truly, the kingdom of heaven was in this case taken by violence. I also heard that a reverend father, in preaching an eloquent discourse on the dignity at which the Roman Catholics had arrived by the dis- establishment of the Protestant Church, brought home his observations by the following practical conclusion : 'And now, my dear brethren, since we have arrived at such a glorious consummation, it is more than ever incumbent upon you to double your contributions.' Early and imprudent marriages are a prolific PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 205 source of misery in all countries. They are too common in England, and I remember a parish in Kent where we could gauge the prosperity of the season by the number of weddings, for it seemed as if every man who could spare 7s. 6d. im- mediately entered upon the holy estate. But in Ireland this extravagance is encouraged by the priest, who openly exhorts the young men and women to make their arrangements at once, and not to wait until they become old, when they may sit ' mewing at one another like two cats in a crib.' They have good reason for giving such advice, as they sometimes obtain as much as -£"20 for performing the ceremony. The following story, told me by a Romanist, who seemed to relish it much, would seem to imply that the priests would not be very anxious to promote marriages where the fees were not forthcoming. A poor girl, who had been long engaged to her young man, went at length to the parish priest to beg that he would confirm their happiness. He inquired how much money she would give for the ceremony ; to which she made answer that all she possessed in the world was one sovereign. The priest shook his head ; he must have thirty shillings. The girl prayed and sobbed, and represented the cruelty of the case. 2o6 YA CHTING. but all to no effect — the arbiter of her destinies remained obdurate. She left the room in the utmost despair, but, as she was passing throu,gh the hall, her eyes lighted on one of the priest's cloaks, which was hanging in graceful folds upon a peg. She looked again — the evil one suggested an idea. She unhooked the holy garment, and disappeared. In half an hour she returned, much to her own and the priest's satisfaction, with the requisite thirty shillings. He was all smiles, and said he would perform the ceremony with as little delay as possible, and so she and Pat were made one ; and as she was leaving the chapel she politely dropped a curtsy to his reverence, and handed him the pawn-ticket, that he might go and recover his cloak. But although the people condemn the sharp practice of individual priests, they attribute an efficacy to their prayers and offices which we find it difficult to understand. Not only the women, but also many of the men, are completely subjected to sacerdotal influence. An old gentleman of my acquaintance — a Protestant, but one who, during a long residence in the country, had imbibed much of the feelings of his tenantry — on hearing of the death of the village blacksmith, a notorious drunkard, inquired with much concern whether, PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 207 in his last moments, he had been attended by a priest. On being answered in the affirmative, he seemed greatly relieved, and striking his stick on the ground, exclaimed, ' By G ! then it's all right with the poor devil !' The priests are very strict about confession in Ireland, and I fancy that some of them have occasionally a good laugh, when alone together, over the secrets divulged to them. Some penitents are excessively tender in their consciences, enter- ing into minute details about all their pecca- dilloes, and even dragging to light every little im- pertinence of thought which has suggested itself to them ; but I have reason to believe there are many who make a pretty fair show in the confes- sional, and carefully keep back all their more serious offences. The system of graduating punishment in ac- cordance with the culpability of offences has a bad moral effect. It has necessarily arisen from appointing penances, and its inconvenience is well illustrated in the following case. A poor man came to confession ; all that he had to tell was that he had stolen a pig. ' Was it a good pig ?' inquired the priest. ' Egad, your rivirence, it was an iligant cratur !' ' Did it belong to a rich man, or to a poor one ?' 2o8 YA CHTING. ' Oh, a very rich man, your riverence.' * Well, well, that makes a great difference. It's not of much consequence. He could afford to lose it. You need only say a few "Ave Marias" and " Pater Nosters" for a week.' 'Thank your rivirence, I'll do that.' ' By the way, Pat,' said the priest, as the man was going out, ' I forgot to whom you said the pig belonged.' ' Belonged to, did you say ? Shure, didn't it belong to your rivirence ?' The idea which most people form of an Irish priest, or, as he now calls himself, an Irish clergy- man, is that of an intolerant man, somewhat the better for joviality and the worse for duplicity. But experience proves that although priests are rubbed down considerably by a long ecclesiastical training, nature is not entirely expelled from them. A man's innate disposition always rules his life to a certain extent. Thus among the priests some are men of learning, and some admirable in their calling. Many are excellent judges of horses, and I remember one that would not ride a horse that cost less than a hundred guineas. Another was born to be an architect ; his mind was always full of plans for houses, schools, or churches, and of schemes for obtaining money to carry out his PRIESTS AND PEA SANTS. 209 designs. Some are scientific and philosophical, well versed in the works of Tyndall, Herbert Spencer, and contemporary freethinking writers. I heard one of them maintain against all comers that nothing is certain but our own existence. He concluded from this that as nothing is certain we may as well accept the doctrines propounded by the Church. Humour and pleasantry are common to most of the priests, and some can tell excellent stories about their quick-witted and ignorant parishioners. The private life of the ' father ' is simple and old-fashioned. He lives in a cottage, which in its neatness is a contrast to the neighbouring houses and an example to their occupants. The service is performed by one old woman, and there is a boy to groom the necessary horse. The hours adopted seem to us strange and primitive ; as there is no luncheon, the priest dines between four and five. When a party is given — and some are very hospitable — the fare is of a substantial character ; no kickshaws or made dishes are visible. There is seldom any soup or fish, but you might sit down to a table having at the head a boiled turkey and at the foot a round of corned beef. The side-dishes would be a leg of pork and a loin of mutton, or perhaps a mutton 14 2IO YACHTING. ham. The sweets only consist of a monster apple pie. The turkey must have celery sauce ; and I remember having once been much sur- prised when, visiting a bailiff's cottage, I heard a boy say at the door : ' If you plaze, sir, Father Murphy has sent me to ask you if you would give him some oiyonr salary.'' ' I'll send him what I can spare,' was the con- siderate reply. I may here observe that the priests sometimes requisition hay and other things, but I believe this custom is dying out. Some of these ' men of peace ' have lately become political orators of a very advanced type, induced partly by a certain natural pugnacity, partly by the force of circum- stances. I remember an old priest who had so much more ' Nationalism ' than judgment that he said, ' No man was ever murdered in Ireland that did not richly deserve it.' We can better understand such sympathies and expressions when we remember that these men nearly all belong to the families of small farmers. When young they have often heard the payment of the rent spoken of as a hardship, and hence they can enter heartily into a crusade against landlords.* But in * It must also be remembered that if a priest is asked to give evidence against his parishioners, he has to choose be- tween bankruptcy and a short comfortable imprisonment. PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 211 justice we must admit that many of the priests in these trying times, when their own dues are at stake, have manfully refused to sanction tenants' dishonest schemes. A friend of mine had a remarkable experience of this kind. A tenant on his property, a most respectable man, with a considerable capital invested in his farm, and of course with a large family, read Dillon's ' Plan of Campaign.' ^^'hether he entirely abhorred or gave a ' sombre acquiescence ' to the proposal for cutting down rents we need not inquire ; but when his eye alighted on the passage in which it was said that all those who had taken farms since the commencement of the agitation should be turned out, his indignation knew no bounds. He had himself not long come into pos- session. In his wrath he used some hard words about Dillon to his friends, and with the incaution of his countrymen said that he ought to be shot. This was soon noised abroad, and the Nationalists became incensed. A council of neighbouring farmers was called, and C was ordered to appear before it. He was in dismay at this in- telligence. If condemned by the court, he would suffer boycotting with all its consequences. Ruin was impending. Most fortunately, in this emer- gency the priest came to my friend's assistance. 14 — 2 212 YACIITIXG. He took the chair at the meeting. The culprit. C . came in hke a man about to be executed. The charge against him was stated, and he was asked what he had to sa}' in self-defence. He replied sorrowfully that he much regretted what he had said, that he meant just the opposite, but he was. so drunk that he did not know what he was saying. ^^^hile this statement was being received with some murmurs, the priest said in a loud voice, ' I'm very glad to hear it. That's perfectly satisfactor}'. You're acquitted — 3'^ou may go !' But for this kindly intervention of the priest the man might have been visited ' by the pale moonlight ;' or if not, he and his family would have been reduced to beggar}-. The Irish generally attribute all the miseries of their country to excessive rents, forgetting that in this they blame somewhat themselves, as there must be two parties in fixing a rent. But, in truth, the present miserable state of Ireland arises not from one, but from many causes. First and foremost is the low price of agricultural produce, due to foreign imports. If values had continued as they were forty years ago, most rents would have been paid now as well as they were then ; but the high prices about ten years since led to the PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 213 farmers forming high hopes and hving in a better way, and they now fight to the last against returning to their former state of discomfort. Bad seasons also have borne heavily upon some who have not capital to stand a small loss. The general dissatisfaction arising from these causes has led to the appearance of a host of agitators, who think a living may be made by exciting the tenants against the landlords. They know from experience that the Irish are alwaj^s ready to subscribe money handsomely. The farms being very small also leads to an increase of dis- turbances, as the tenants are of a low class, and being very numerous, partake of the nature and feelings of a mob. If a tenant in England cannot pay his rent he resigns his farm, and would think an ' eviction ' more disgraceful to himself than to his land- lord. But the Irishman refuses both to pa}- any rent but that which he himself pleases and also to give up his land, tries to make a scene when he is ejected, and afterwards boycotts the farm. The reason of this is partly an attachment to his holding, mostly a fear of his own people. He knows there are speculative fellows who would offer the old rent to get the farm ; and he may also have some conviction that a man with 214 YACHTING. more industry and capital than he possesses might be able to make a larger rent. It is the competition of his own brethren he is afraid of, and that is one reason why outrages are generally committed upon the poor rather than upon the rich. Another cause of the condition of Ireland is the weakness and demoralization of the English Parliament, where both parties have been bidding for the Irish vote, and rivalling each other in con- cessions to lawlessness. Let us hope that a better state of things is now commencing. The present state of Ireland is a spectacle 'for gods and men,' and an anomaly in the civilized world. Instead of a central power and organized executive, the law, such as it is, is promulgated by a vast number of self-constituted tribunals spread over the face of the country. These are mainly composed of ignorant and prejudiced men, and there is no appeal from their decision. They settle questions affecting property worth some two hundred millions, and occupy the positions both of plaintiffs and judges. Their mandates are carried out by a most effective police, con- sisting of all the idle boys in their neighbourhood. The Land League originally started this system, but even that central authority is often overlooked. The committees meet once a week on nearly PRIESTS AND PEASANTS. 215 every property to devise means for obstructing the landlord in the management of his property, and of course the voices of the most impecunious and pugnacious are the loudest. A nearer approach to anarchy can scarcely be imagined. There is a delicate subject generally alluded to in connection with Ireland which I wish only to touch with light fingers — I mean the want of cleanliness among the poorer classes. William de Windsor mentioned this peculiarity in the time of Edward III., when even England was not faultless in this respect. The girls' hair always seemed to me to be very rough, and on my remarking that one of them did not appear to have brushed her hair that morning, the reply was, ' Probably not for a week.' When sailing up to New Ross we took a pilot on board, an intelligent man, who told us much about the country. He said he was a teetotaler, and amused me by replying, when I asked him if he would have some tea, ' No, thank you, sir ; I drink nothing but cordials.' When he was leaving, one of our sailors said, ' Have you got your coat ?' and another immediately repeated, ' Oh, don't forget your coat !' I was glad to hear this ; it seemed as though they took an interest in the old man's welfare. But when his boat pushed off, I found 2i6 YACHTING. that they were thinking more of themselves, and had descried something on his coat which made them particularly anxious not to have it left on board. One of our crew became ill during our stay in Ireland, and our sailing-master engaged an Irish sailor to take his place. This measure I soon found was very unpopular with the crew. They looked askance at the new man, and were seen whispering together, and scratching themselves. Some of them began to overhaul their clothes. Our ' old man of the sea,' Tom, got out his great spectacles, and was constantly to be seen sitting on a water-cask deeply absorbed in examining portions of his wardrobe. Our sailing-master at last charged the Irishman openly with having brought some extra passengers on board, and his reply to the soft impeachment, ' There never was a man wore a hat that hadn't some,' was not comforting. Brown said that he was not able to answer that he had none, for at that moment he was not quite sure. The man was accordingly dismissed. I was sorry that he Vv^as objectionable in this respect, for otherwise he seemed quiet and well-behaved. It was very inconvenient to be short of a hand on board, and I still thought a man might be obtained PRIESTS AND PEA SANTS. 1 1 7 on the coast. I determined to interrogate the pohce on the subject — they are a very smart, well- trained body of men. Accordingly, as soon as I had the opportunity I mentioned to one of them the unpleasant discoveries on board the yacht. ' How comes it to pass,' I asked, ' that so many of the Irish are in this condition ?' ' Well, sir, I don't know,' he replied. ' I think it is because they are so much more clever than the English.' If he had said ' more attractive ' I should have understood him. I attribute the want of cleanliness among the Irish to the relaxing character of the climate, the want of proper training when young, and con- tempt for small domestic duties. I am speaking of a large class, but not of the middle classes, or of the better part of the poor. Still, there is a general want of neatness and order in the country, especially when compared with the high condition of England. 2i8 YACHTING. CHAPTER IV. The Yacht's Crew. — Becalmed. The sailing-master, four men and a boy formed our crew, and, I may say, our companions on the voyage. The first. Brown, had sailed for many many years from Smyrna and the Archipelago in the fruit trade, and had been so long on the West Indian coast that the natives told him he only wanted ' one dip more to make him a darky.' He was not only a judicious and enterprising navigator, but was very amusing in conversation, having a fund of stories about his fortunes and misfortunes in various parts of the world. His accounts of quarrels, fights, surprises and escapes, amatory and predatory, might have filled a volume with strange roving adventures. At one time we find him caught in a gale in the Bay of Biscay, and shut up in the hold for seven days, during which no one dared to venture on deck, and when they looked through the scuttle they ' could see the sky through the waves.' On another occasion he is mounted on an untrained colt in Jamaica, which he rode so hard that he broke the stirrups, and then pulled so vigorously that he broke the bridle, being finally carried away THE YACHT'S CREW. 219 into a forest, where he narrowly escaped the fate of Absalom. The other men went severally by the names of Isaac, Sam, George, and Tom. Isaac was an old salt, a good judge of the weather, and more valuable for his experience than for any work he performed. Sam was a large heavily-built fellow, somewhat of the walrus type. He had been accustomed to a very rude and uncivilized state of things, and held all the amenities of life in supreme contempt. Knives and forks he despised as unnecessary refinements, and preferred the earlier appliances ; and cups and saucers he con- sidered only fit for chimney ornaments, requiring a capacious bowl for his potations. He had been much in Southern climes, and was tattooed with a variety of devices. He told me that the natives in the South Seas were beginning to be very fashionable, by having shoes and stockings tattooed on them. George was a man of a very different stamp. He had been employed principally in fishing, and consequently had been much on shore ; and boasting some advantages in face and figure, had caused a considerable sensation among the ' 'long shore ' nymphs. Being by no means an ungrate- ful man, he had duly appreciated their kindness, 220 YACHTING. and did his best to repay them by bestowing extra attention upon his toilet and costume. He soon insinuated himself into the good graces of Mrs. Wiltshire's maid, who privately told her mistress * that he was quite superior to the rest,' but before the end of the season the trusting abigail greatly changed her opinion. One day, when she was expecting a proposal, he confided to her that he was no scholar, and should feel much obliged if she would write a letter for him to his sweetheart ! Tom, or ' Old Tom,' as he was generally called, was a quaint, powerful man with black curly hair, and such an expression of countenance that when topped with his red yachting nightcap he might have sat for a picture of Puck. He seldom spoke, but when he did open his lips it was to utter some enigmatical observation, which you perceived from a twinkle in his eye was intended to be humorous. Viewed in profile, he resembled one of the ancient Egyptians as we see them represented on the monuments, who maintain the same imperturb- able expression, whether seated at a convivial banquet or engaged in a tremendous battle. Nothing could disturb his equanimity ; fair weather or foul, soft words or hard, it was all the same to him. It was a pleasure to contemplate him ; he seemed to diffuse serenity around ; and THE YACHTS CREW. 221 yet he was not a man with whom the world had gone very smooth^. He had contended for forty years with rough shipmates and rougher waves, and out of his scanty earnings had main- tained a wife and seven children. What enabled him to preserve such calmness and complacency ? What raised him above the vicissitudes of life, and made his red cap stand so erect upon his head ? One word explains the myster}- — a magic word — tobacco ! He was never without tobacco in his pipe, tobacco in his mouth, and to complete the charm, he wore a roll of it upon the top of his head. Yet he was a shrewd, sensible man, weatherwise as well as witty, and his neatness was so great that little Emily took a malicious pleasure in peeping at him in the forecastle, where he was generally to be seen with his ' diddy bag,' darning his stockings or 'overhauling' some of his clothes. Better than all, he was a religious man. He was fond of what he called a ' noice Boible,' and of sermons and expositions, which he read aloud on Sundays in a sonorous voice. The other men made no objection to this, but at the same time considered he had no right to interfere with their conversation, and the resulting inter- mixture of things sacred and nautical produced a strange and sometimes ludicrous effect. 222 YACHTING. With these men and the saihng-master or captain, I thought my crew completed, when I was informed that there never was such a thing heard of as a vessel sailing without a boy. This deficiency I was therefore obliged to suppl}-. Billy, the boy, who was scullion, scrub and slave, was, in reality, better educated than any of the rest. He was active and clever, and had, moreover, a taste for music. Nevertheless, he was generally despised by the others, and being a youngster, was considered a fair subject for all kinds of practical jokes. The least objectionable of these was Old Tom's, who, when he knew Billy was below dressing himself, or engaged in some delicate operation, would seat himself by the fore peak, and looking seaward, suddenly exclaim in a stentorian voice : ' Well I never ! I never did see anything like that ! Is it a whale ?' Upon hearing this, Billy, who had a great appetite for marine wonders, would rush up on deck, leaving everything in disorder, sometimes upsetting the kettle on his way, and crying out, 'Where ? where ?' ' Where ?' answered Old Tom ; * why, there behind you ; can't you turn your head ?' * I don't see anything,' returns Billy. THE YACHT S CREW. 223 ' No, of course you don't ; it's gone now. Well, I never did see such a slow chap in all my life !' But Billy's greatest misfortune was that he had not been originally brought up to the sea, and although he had not served out his apprenticeship as a tailor, the fact of his ever having been engaged in such a trade offered to his mates an irresistible temptation. Never had unfortunate wight sadder cause to know the difference one letter can make in a word. Whenever he was not quite so smart in his work as they desired, he was assailed with ' Is that the way the tailors do?' or ' Come, none of your tailoring tricks here.' This annoyed the boy, for his great ambition was to be a sailor, and he sometimes lost his temper and re- torted upon them, the result being that they called him a factory boy, and said they would throw him overboard — a threat in days gone by often carried into execution in the merchant service : a rope was tied round the offender's body, and he was towed astern until his anger had cooled down. One fine June evening, after a good dinner at the Kingswear Hotel, which seemed better than it was from the pleasant prospect before us, we sailed out between the castled heights which guard the entrance to the Dart, and stood for Brittany. 224 YACHTING. The sun was just setting in the west, the water was smooth, and the breeze Hght. Our progress became somewhat slow, and having slept comfort- ably, we next morning found ourselves becalmed in mid channel, out of sight of land. Nothing of importance occurred during the day. We lay * like a painted ship upon a painted ocean.' At noon the heat was intense. Sometimes the water looked like molten metal, sometimes like rippling silk, and its surface might have been a study of diamond patterns for the designer, or of inter- secting curves for the mathematician. The topmasts of a steamer appeared above the horizon at noon, and gradually the dark hull rose, and seemed to grow in size till it approached quite close, and the captain hailed us to ask the direction of the Lizard. We informed him, and learnt that he came from Odessa, and as the vessel was of iron the compass was not quite true. Brown walked about the deck with his hands in his pockets whistling. But no breeze re- sponded to his call. When night drew on the lamps were lit, and all having been made snug aloft, the men descended into the forecastle. George came last ; the summer weather seemed to have raised his spirits. ' Come, why should we be melancholy, boys ?' THE YACHT'S CREW. 225 he exclaimed as he drew his shoulders through the fore-peak, and stood for a moment on the round of the ladder contemplating the company. ' Strike, strike the banjo ; I like a good old song. Come, Billy, tune up ; let's hear how the tailors do it ; I'll be bound the governor won't mind the music' Billy, thus challenged, produced his concertina and began to play an elaborate prelude, which the rest listened to with more astonishment than pleasure. George was the first to show im- patience. 'Come, Billy, I say, let's have something lively ; that's enough of your tailoring twirls.' ' I like the Psalms of David or a good hymn,' interposed Old Tom. '"Awake, my soul," or something of that sort. Howsomever, music's music, I suppose.' ' Aye, aye,' replied George, who was not quite devotional. ' That's all very well, but we're not in chapel now. Give me " Polly Perkins " or " My Mary Anne." ' ' Let's have a song about the old pirates and smugglers,' growled Tom. ' Or "Jenny Jones," ' suggested George. Billy, thus puzzled, played ' Mary, Astore ' and * Norah of Kildare,' which he sang very creditably. 15 226 YACHTING. Then George san^ a song in the chorus of which all joined heartily : Through the spray we hold our way, 111 can ne'er betide us, For afar a northern star Shines aloft to guide us. P'ast or slow, rain or blow, On we sail together, Safe to steer for England dear, Fair or foul the weather. She's the land that every hand Strives to gain or perish ; .She's the home, where'er they roam, Britons love to cherish. Chorus : Fast or slow, etc. .Sails unfurled through all the world Seek her tranquil waters ; Sailors chide the ebbing tide That stays them from her daughters. Chorus : Fast or slow, etc. / Long may high her bunting fly Beyond the sea-bird's pinion. While east and west alike are blest Beneath her mild dominion. Chorus : Fast or slow, etc. Other songs followed, some of such surprising length that I began to think their powers would fail. So I told the steward to give them a bottle of rum, and soon the hissing of a kettle and clink- ing of glasses gave proof that hot work was going on. THE YACHT'S CRFAV. 227 Thus reinforced, the company became still noisier and more musical. Brown took out his violin and tuned like fifty screech-owls. ' You should have been with us in the Jacob and Jeinima,'' he said, ' if 3'ou ^vanted to hear music ; that was music in earnest. All the men sang, and pretty loud too, and we had a drum, a banjo, and a bagpipes. When we were at Naples and the royal band played on the Chiaja, we used to set up an opposition. They got jealous of us at last, however, for we made a greater row than they did, and they sent the police to us and ordered us to " stop that knocking." ' With these words he struck up ' Charming Judy Callaghan,' which George sang in such a soft and persuasive tone, that even that obdurate beauty could scarcely have reiterated her ' Nay.' More songs followed, and then Brown tried to play the concertina, which occasioned great laughter. But the loudest chorus and the greatest success of the evening, sung as it was with a considerable amount of serio-comic ex- pression, was — ' Pipe, pipe your eye ! Pipe, pipe your eye ! For the French are coming, and they say They'll drink old England dry.' 15—2 228 YACHTING. Everyone was in a jovial mood and got upon his favourite theme. 'SmuggHng?' said old Isaac, looking back, as was his wont, on days gone by. ' There's no smuggling now, such as there used to be when I was a youngster. I've helped at it myself. Many a night I've crossed from Rosecough to the coast of Cornwall, over lOO miles in an open boat, and hard work to keep her afloat, for we always crossed with a cloudy sky, and sometimes came in for a breeze.' ' Sailors' fare,' struck in Old Tom ; ' foul to-day and chops to-morrow.' ' And then,' continued Isaac, ' we stowed the casks snug in a cave, or took the landmarks and sank them in deep water, to return for them again when the revenue people were out of the way. There's not much done smuggling now — a little perhaps on the quiet.' 'That's what I say,' added Sam. 'There's no spirit in it nowadays. Why, I've heard of two men being tarred and feathered, and carried round Deal in a cart, for blowing the gaff on their mates.' ' Aye, a}-e,' replied Isaac. ' You've never seen such smuggling as I have. Smuggling gold — Spanish doubloons — that's your game. One day THE YACHT'S CREW. 229 when we were off Valparaiso, the commander comes to me and tells me to go to Lord Cochrane, as good an officer and as good a sailor as I ever knew. Well, as soon as I got to the admiral's cabin, my lord turns the key in the door, and " Boatswain," says he, " now we're alone and nobody can't hear us. I've half a million gold doubloons coming off next week, and I want to know how we're to manage it." " Well, my lord," says I, " I think our best plan will be to get the cooper to make some new breakers with false heads six inches deep, and stow the gold in like that." And so we did, and got it off all safe in six days. The men said the new water breakers was precious heavy, and one of the Spanish officers ashore put his finger into every cask to see if it was water, but no one discovered anything.' ' The young chaps nowadays,' said Old Tom, ' don't know what the old sailors went through in the French war, when they were sometimes for a year without setting foot on shore. There was something doing then, and no mistake, when they used to be knocking about off Youshant, watching the French fleet at Brest.' ' My father had many stories about them 'ere times,' added George. ' Once when he was sail- 230 YACHTING. ing in a seventy-ton brig off Beachy Head, they Avere chased by a French privateer lugger. Men were so scarce then that the crew consisted of only the captain and two men. On finding that they were pursued, the captain was for surrender- ing, and protested that they should all be killed if they made any resistance. But father had been in a man-of-war, and he insisted on bringing up an old cannon which lay in the hold. They had no ball, but loaded it with bolts and pieces of old iron, and as a finish filled it chock full up to the mouth with broken glass bottles. The lugger was soon alongside, for you know them " sashmarees " is fast sailing craft, and a man in the bow threw grappling-irons on board. This brought the main- mast of the lugger opposite the mouth of the cannon, and the Englishman immediately fired. The mast fell with a tremendous crash upon the deck of the lugger, knocking some of the men overboard and wounding others. Such was the Frenchmen's fright that the man at the bow cut the rope of the grappling-irons, and so the brig pushed off and got away. When all was over the cannon was nowhere to be found. Vessels were then built without bulwarks, and the recoil had sent it clean over the other side. My father had them very grappling-irons hanging up in his THE YACHT'S CREW. 231 cottage till the day of his death, and used to tell the story.' Old Tom now changed the subject. He was of a more domestic turn, and although fond of sea stories, his mind was constantly reverting to his little home. ' I shall be right glad when I get back to the old woman again,' he said absently ; ' and I have heard that there will be a little lady waiting to welcome me.' 'That's your tenth, Tom, ain't it?' inquired George, evidently more admiring the man's equanimity than his good fortune. ' Aye, the tenth, and not one too many — God bless them ! The dear creatures gives a man an object in life — something to look forward to, like ; and they gives a trust in Providence. Why, in that gale we was in, passing Jut reef, I says to m3self, " We'll weather it safe enough ; I'm all right, and so are the rest of us. Nothing will happen to me, because I'm a father and have nine young uns to provide for."' You couldn't have said that, George.' ' No, I'm very glad I couldn't," replied George cynically. ' Well,' continued Old Tom, ' I should never have worked half as hard, or earned half as much, 232 YACHTING. if it hadn't .been for the dear ones at home. Take my word for it, an unmarried man will never get rich. Look at my two brothers, William and Harry. William is married and Harry ain't. They've been always in the same ships, except once when Harry was sent away for coming late aboard, and William is worth two hundred pounds or more, while Harry has not saved a farthing.' ' Well, all I know is,' observed Isaac, ' I once had a wife, and she was a rare bad un, and I don't care who hears me say so. But I acted handsome by her. I took her down to the rail- way-station, and I paid her way home to her mother, every mile of it. I said I'd do it hand- some, and I did.' Silence and order at length prevailed. Brown went on deck, Isaac, Tom, and Sam turned into their beds, and George poured out the last of the liquor and began to sip it slowly, as with dreamy eye he reviewed his successes and failures in the battlefield of love. ' Well, well, Billy, a glass of grog does one good now and then ; it seems to cheer one up like. I wonder where my old Polly is now. She was a fine woman, and no mistake. Why, her hand was as big as mine ; none of your trumpery bits of things only fit to carry a parrisole. She had a fin. THE YACHT'S CREW. 233 and a precious good smack she could give with it, as I known. And she'd a good foot too, broad and flat — something to stand upon — a man with a narrow one ain't much good loading coals. She was a fine wholesome ship, with plenty of beam and a good bit of ballast ; none of your cranky craft only fit for a coffin. Married a sodjer — one of the riglers — a sniggering rascal, Sarve her right for going arter the landlubbers. ' I never thought so much about Sairey, though she had a smart figure-head, she had. She warn't in good repair, so to speak ; I thought her copper and rigging were out of order. Howsomever, we used to keep company at one time, and she said I'd gained her affictions, and gived me a lock of her hair. I've got it now somewhere or other 'long with my 'baccy. But when I came home from my last voyage, blessed if she hadn't gone and married old Smugg the grocer, with his six children, and she'd a new sky-scraper on, and wouldn't speak to a chap like me. Well, I've a good riddance of her, that's all. I've got a better one now. I'd rather have my Zibey, than three of the likes of her. She's as neat a girl as a poor man need wish to have; she's a housemaid in Squire Robinson's family. But I haven't heard from her since I've been away, 234 YACHTING. and I can't get nobody to write to her for me. I hear the parsons now are teaching all the young chaps to write their own love-letters, but my parents never made me no scholar.' Billy's sympathy and admiration w^ere greatly excited by these recitals, and he in turn began to give his experiences. Even he had met with some successes, and he related them with so much minuteness and so many embellishments, that George could no longer restrain his feelings, but burst out with ' Well, darn me, Sam, but them tailors is knowing ones !' Sam, thus addressed, said that he did not know nor care nothing at all about it ; for his part, his books were made up. Old Tom was not more communicative ; he was settling himself for the night, and merely observed, ' When you young chaps are done, perhaps you'll let me go to sleep, and mind you're up early to wash decks in the morning.' They apparently took the hint, for their voices became less audible and their observations less connected ; and presently Sam's melodious horn began to sound so loud that it seemed to shake the little vessel from stem to stern, and George was heard at intervals vainly expostulating : ' Sam ! I say, come, wake up 1 How is one to THE YACHTS CREW. 235 get to sleep with such a blessed row as that going on ?' On our previous voyage considerable dissension had arisen among the crew. It not unfrequently happens on board yachts that married men are addicted to excessively penurious habits ; their self-denial is certainly much to their credit. In our crew, Brown and Old Tom were benedicks, and exhibited these characteristics of their state somewhat conspicuously. It is usual in yachts for the men to find their own provisions out of their twenty-five shillings a week. The captain does not generally mess with the crew, but in our case he did, as they were all well known to one another and came from the same port. Brown, therefore, and Old Tom, sat at the head and foot of the table, and they set an example of abstemiousness which the rest thought themselves obliged to follow. These melancholy presidents occasionall}- found near our anchorage, to their great delight, a bank of large mussels, and afterwards one of the boats would be constantly away collecting- them. These shell-fish were eaten with pepper and vinegar, and some I tasted seemed not alto- gether despicable ; but Old Tom asserted they were very fattening, and much better than oysters, because there was more in them. 236 YA CIITING. Mussels now became the order of the da)-. Brown and Tom were charmed at the idea of living so cheaply ; but the countenances of the others as the unsavoury molluscs appeared day after day became increasingly rueful. A great struggle was going on within them, between their respect for the captain and their carnal appetite. Billy's nose grew more and more peaky every day, and he betrayed evident signs of giving in. At length one afternoon, on his in- quiring what there was to be for dinner, and being told 'Some more of them fine mussels,' he became openly and disgracefully mutinous. ' What, mussels again ? Fine mussels, indeed ! I'll tell you what it is, captain, we've had too much of them.' ' Then do a little less,' said Brown dryly. 'We've had too much of them,' persisted Billy. * We ought to have some rashers now and then, or a nice beefsteak, and ' ' Well, I never in all my life !' interrupted Old Tom. ' Here's a chap a-complaining of his grub, as has good mussels and tea three times a day ! W^ell, I never did know anything like these tailorin' chaps.' ' No more did I,' chimed in Brown. ' Do you know, young man, that every kind of disease is to THE YACHT'S CREW. 237 be found among people that live on animal food ?' The altercation which ensued, and in which Billy spoke with great eloquence, for his words came from his heart, if not from a lower region, had the good effect of improving the forecastle mess. But the desire on the part of the family men to live on next to nothing remained un- abated, and out of respect for their motive, and fear for their health, we occasionally made them a present of something more nutritious. (It may have been remarked that when the sweethearting subject was started, Sam said that ' his books were made up.' In fact, he was engaged, and shortly afterwards left us to marry a donkey-woman at Ilfracombe. She was a widow, who, although she had four children, had managed by thrift to save a small sum of money. For some time after this wedding Sam's lumbering figure was to be seen about Ilfracombe driving a little pony-chaise. The other sailors made fun of him, and chaffed him about being ' shipwrecked '; for, not being accustomed to driving, he sometimes upset his customers. Perhaps this irritated him ; certainly he grew more and more discontented, and made himself proportionably disagreeable to his wife. And so, one lovely summer morning. 238 VA CHTING. he rose at five o'clock, gave her and her four children, as I heard, a good 'walloping' all round, and embarked on board a ship for Australia.) CHAPTER V. Abervrac'h. A LITTLE breeze sprang up during the night, and in the morning the lighthouse on He Vierge was visible, and a line of rocks extending from it, which reminded me of the 'haycocks' at Scilly, but which, Brown said, looked like a street of ware- houses. After looking about for some time for a pilot-boat, we espied a small dark sail marked with an anchor making towards us. We hoisted our signal, which was answered, and we saw the two motley occupants of the boat making all kinds of frantic exertions with their heavy oars to propel their craft more briskly through the water. The wind had fallen to a zephyr, but at length we drew them alongside, and a quaint looking in- dividual, in patchwork attire and a broad-brimmed hat, kicked off his sabots out of compliment to ' monsieur,' and leaped on board. We were beginning to fear that our pilot could speak ABERVRACH. 239 nothing but Breton, for the name of the place — Abervrac'h — seemed alarmingly Welsh, and were trying to muster a little Gaelic, when Old Tom set us at rest by asking his usual question, ' Parley- votis Fvancais ? — Do you know what sour bread and vinegar means ?' To the former part of which the man replied, * Ya-as, me speak Engleesh.' But this was an empty boast, and only that Sam could speak Welsh, we should have been in diffi- culties. We now turned our bow towards land, passing the dangerous rocks known as the Grand Pot dc Beure and the Petit Pot de Benre. While landing, we were much diverted by the antics and misfortunes of two old wives who had essayed to navigate a boat across the river. One had got the sail half up, while the other was steering off the wind so that her companion could not raise the other half. To make matters worse, they were shaping such a course as inevitably to run into a chasscinayee which was lying like an overgrown butterboat in the middle of the stream. In this difficulty, instead of letting down the sail or putting the helm to starboard, they began to assail each other with the vilest abuse, and to gesticulate in a manner which threatened personal violence. In the hottest part of the con- 24 o YACHTING. tention their bowsprit ran right into the lugger, and both were thrown flat on their backs in the bottom of the boat. The colHsion aroused the crew of the vessel, who, in their turn, discharged a broadside of imprecations at the pair, such as are only to be found in a sailor's — perhaps a French sailor's — repertory. But the good ladies did not seem to have learned wisdom by this disaster, for as soon as they regained their legs they were as noisy as ever, and as we rowed to land their shrill discordant voices were plainly audible above the general uproar. After a good dinner in a bedroom at the little inn, we went out for a stroll, and found an old sacred well dedicated to St. Anthony, to whose w^aters healing virtues are attributed, reminding us a little of St. Ruan's in Cornwall. It con- sisted of a square basin arched over and adorned with a figure of the saint. The day after our arrival was the festival of St. John, and it was observed here, as at Penzance, by lighting bonfires on the hills and around the shore. This is said by Borlase to be a remnant of ' Druidical ' worship, and to be connected with the ancient purificatory fires of Moloch. I may observe that once when I was in Ireland I saw the people jumping over bonfires, and driving ABERVRACH. 241 their cattle over them at Midsummer ' for good luck.' In the evening all the villagers of Abervrac'h v/ere collected beside a bonfire on the beach, and knelt round it in a ring, the men on one side and the women on the other, while the latter one after another repeated prayers, some of great length. Small sprays of a plant named after the saint were then passed through the fire, and handed to the worshippers to take home — they were sup- posed to possess healing virtues, and to be par- ticularly good for weak eyes. Some women carried pieces of the plant away, blazing, to place it in water, which would thus acquire restorative properties. I never beheld a scene which repre- sented so vividly ancient Pagan rites. We have in our ' Sunday,' and probably in the eastern posture and orientation of churches, traces of the early sun-worship. Some have attributed to this source the celebration of Christmas in the winter solstice instead of in the spring. During our stay at Abervrac'h we made several excursions into the surrounding country, and on one occasion came to a small town whose aspect was unusually dismal and lifeless. Its quaint old houses were green with damp ; the wide market- place was not adorned with a single tree, nor 61 242 YACHTING. trodden by any living creature save a gaunt dung- hill cock, who wandered absently about like a phantom in a land of shadows. During our stay in the town I only saw one man cross this place, and he seemed an aimless being far removed from the outer world — silent and self-contained. On one side of the square was a house on which * Tabac ' was still legible ; it had evidently re- -..ained untouched and unrepaired for ages, and on the wall opposite I could just decipher the seemingly ironical notice, ' A la reunion des Culti- vateurs.' We should have left this town with the idea that some great calamity had lately befallen it ; that it was a doomed place, a habitation of lepers — though, indeed, the bars of the windows re- minded us of lunatic asylums — had we not met in the main street a smart little Frenchwoman who seemed much out of place in such a gloomy locality. We applied to her for a solution of the mystery. She smiled, and told us, with a twinkle in her eye, that the cause of the dreariness we observed was that all the inhabitants of the town \vere old maids or old bachelors. She herself was a stranger there, but sometimes came to obtain orders, though there was very little business doing. The only people who fiourished there were the lawvers, for the inhabitants were always ABERVRACH. 243 quarrelling. Somebody's cat had been too attentive to somebody's canary ; somebody's parrot had nipped the nose of somebody's lap- dog ; and although a case could seldom be made out, they invariably applied for summonses. She was only acquainted with one person in the town, and indeed did not wish to know more, as she was afraid of them, they were so ' fierce.' There had not been a marriage there for ten years, there were no balls or soirees, and not even a dinner- party, for all the people dined at different hours, and not one would alter his time, even for one day, to accept the hospitality of his neighbour. The old ladies were scarcely acquainted, and kept up little communication among themselves, but were always imputing to one another such irregu- larities as might have been supposed the most improbable. The gentlemen, on the contrary, met nearly every day at the cafe, discussed and com- pared their dinners and breakfasts, talked over their maladies and the effects of various nostrums they had tried, and seemed to live the lives of angels in their indifference to all human affairs. They were all very indolent, seldom rising before noon, and were profoundly ignorant of all the social and political events of the day. Although no burglary had ever been known to be committed 16 — 2 244 yA CHTING. in the neighbourhood, all the windows were pro- vided with iron gratings, and with bells and alarums, and all the doors were double-bolted at seven o'clock winter and summer. While we lay off Abervrac'h, one of our men was taken ill. As his symptoms appeared serious we sent the steward, who was very proud of the French he had acquired, to ask where the doctor lived. He returned with the incredible informa- tion that there had not been one in the neigh- bourhood for two years. We were greatly dis- concerted, and I was so much surprised, that I went to make inquiries myself. I found that our portly representative had been asking for a physicien (an impostor or cheapjack) and that the doctor lived only two miles off. On his arrival, although he at first recounted a list of fearful maladies from which the man might be suffering, he finally assured us that he was in no danger, and gave restoratives which soon rendered him convalescent. Billy, who had never been in France before, was much astonished at what he saw when he went on shore. Some of his observations greatly amused the men. ' Well !' he exclaimed, looking round, ' I always heard that the French were poor, but I never knew the women could not afford bonnets !' LIFE A T MOLENE. 245 CHAPTER VI. Life at Molene. One of the principal objects I had in view in selecting Brittany for our summer excursion was to visit Ushant, whose remote and isolated position on the map had often attracted my longing eyes. There is scarcely any habitation in Europe so entirely separated from civilization, for it stands beyond the extreme west of Brittany, at the head of the Bay of Biscay, exposed to the utmost fury of the Atlantic gales. The ocean is here so rough, and the rocks so numerous, that vessels keep as far from the neighbourhood as possible, and the inhabitants are often unable to have any communication with the mainland for three weeks consecutively. It is a remarkable fact, and characteristic of the state of society in Ushant, that but a hundred and fifty years ago its inhabitants were idolaters. Accordingly, at ten o'clock the day after our arrival at Abervrac'h, I prepared for a start. The wind was blowing dead up the river, and tacking out proved a long and tedious undertaking. When at length we were fairly at sea, the water appeared very ' lumpy,' and 246 YACHTING. the yacht jumped about so much, that more than one of the men met with what Old Tom facetiously termed ' a turn on the lee quarter." Under the circumstances Ushant appeared out of the question, and we determined upon shaping our course for Brest ; but as we were obliged to make a considerable circuit to avoid the rocks, which extend for several miles out to sea, we came so well within sight of the island that I thought it worth while to make an attempt to carry out our original plan. We accordingly made for Stiff Bay and the lighthouse, and on coming within two miles of it hoisted our jack at the masthead. No pilot boat appeared in answer to the signal, nothing was to be seen moving, and we coasted along the south of the island by several sheltered and tempting bays, without daring to approach near enough to anchor. At length, when we were debating whether sve should relinquish our enterprise or enter the most promising roadstead, a boat was observed sailing in our direction with a flag flying in answer to ours. As it came nearer we put about to let it reach us, but instead of drawing alongside, they ran right into our stern, and barely escaped doing serious damage. There were about a dozen people in it, and a general hubbub and scramble now ensued among them, LIFE AT MOLENE. 247 every man giving orders, shouting and gesticu- lating ; but no pilot essayed to come on board, and as they were speaking Breton we did not understand a word they said. They were soon free of us again, carried away some distance by the large waves, but they directed us by signs to bring up, that they might make another attempt. This time the feat was accomplished, and when the pilot came on board we were not surprised that he had not ventured on the former occasion, for he was so intoxicated that he could scarcely stand. I never understood more fully the Irish- man's meaning when he told the captain who was wanting a pilot that ' he was better than a pilot, he was a temperance man.' Brown, who was himself a conscientious and severe abstainer, con- templated our new acquaintance with undisguised horror and contempt. ' What are we to do, sir ?' he inquired of me uneasily ; ' this man is in no state to take charge of the vessel. I only wish his boat wasn't gone, we'd soon have him back into it again.' ' Well,' said Old Tom, surveying him with evident appreciation, ' he do seem as though he'd had a quart too much vinegar to-day' (Old Tom was no advocate for French wines). '\lc hon pilotc, mc boii pilotc,' replied the culprit 248 YACHTING. in question, who seemed to have caught the drift cf their observations. ' But I don't like this,' persisted Brown, whose countenance was full of anxiety and care'. ' I don't like this. What's that ?' he said, pointing to some swirling water alongside. ' That's a rock. You know one " dap " would do for us, sir, and there are things more valuable even than the vessel.' ^ Me bon pilotc,' reiterated the pilot, 'I've been to a festival of the saint, and have taken a little too much, but I'm good for the service. Hoist the blanchet /' ' You ought to be tossed in a blanket,' replied Brown, who understood, however, by the man's signs that he was to set the foresail. ' What am I to do, sir ?' he inquired, turning to me. ' We seem to have no choice,' I answered ; ' we are encircled by rocks, and not well acquainted with the tides. No other pilot can be ob- tained, and I hold the people in that boat re- sponsible.' Upon determining to commit the vessel to our genial friend, Brown took his station at the mast- head, as from that height he could see rocks twent}- or thirty feet below the surface, or observe the water breaking over them, and might possibly be in time to prevent a serious accident. The pilot put the LIFE AT MOLENE. 249 head of the vessel about, and sailed in a southerly direction. 'Where are you going to?' I inquired; 'this is not the way to Ushant.' ' No,' he replied, ' we cannot go to Ushant to- day ; the tide has turned, and it's not safe ; I'm going to Molene — better for you, better for me.' The latter part of this observation proved ad- mirably correct. The passage to this island, which is about seven miles from Ushant, is particu- larly dangerous, being beset by rocks of ever}- kind and description. In some places they rose like fortresses, in others extended like ruined towns and villages. They were, in general, more in groups than the rocks at Scilly, but they other- wise resembled them, and many bear similar old British or Celtic names. On we sailed — we almost seemed to fly, for the breeze was strong — into the very midst of the rock- set shoals ; the drunken pilot nodding and sway- ing backward and forwards on the binnacle, like a figure of Guy Fawkes on the fifth of November. It seemed perfectly wonderful how he could guide the vessel, but he did so very accurately, and how the crew could understand his orders ; but there seemed a kind of freemasonry between them, and although the men did not know the meaning of 2 50 YA CHTING. his words, they executed his orders with great skill and celerity. The man principally occupied himself in talking to me. He could speak a little broken French, and made up in volubility what was wanting in sense. He told me that he lived in jMolene, and that all the chief people in the island, including the Mayor and Syndic, had been to Ushant, and were returning in the boat from which we had taken him. He said he was the best pilot in the islands, and had a pupil, or, as he called him, an * aspirant,' under his care. He had also saved the lives of I know not how many people, and had a number of decorations, some from the Emperor, and some from our Queen, whose partiality for him he accounted for by observing that his name was Victor, and hers Victoria. He had taken off the only three saved out of the Columbia. She struck on the Helle rock (Sir Cloudesley Shovel was lost off the Hell-weathers in Scilly), and sank so in- stantaneously that the three men who happened to be on deck w^ere the only persons saved. We congratulated ourselves very much on threading our course so successfully, but on approaching Molene looked in vain for the quiet anchorage we had been promised, and saw nothing but an open roadstead entirely exposed to LIFE A T MOLENE. 1 5 r the north wind, which was blowing strong and threatening to increase. The pilot pointed to a buoy in the centre of this bay, and told us that if we made fast to that we should be perfectly safe, for that a frigate could not move it. This appeared to us both uncomfortable and unsatisfactory ; — we hoped to have seen some protection to wind- ward, for here we should be pitching about, dependent only upon the strength of our cable ta preserve us from total destruction. We found that the pilot was correct in asserting that his state of intoxication did not prevent his being up to his business, for he made a most exorbitant demand for placing us in this dangerous position, and let me know that he would charge me twice as much for taking us out. I expostulated and resisted the imposition, but in vain, and he quietly observed that there was no other pilot in the island, and that if I did not treat him with proper politeness and respect he would not come on board at all, nor take us away from the island. This opened an entirely new view of the case — • visiting Molene might be a pleasant freak, but to be kept there indefinitely in a dangerous position, and probably without sleep, would be something beyond a joke. I thought of the anxiety of my friends, of bad provisions, and a variety of dis-. 252 YACHriNG. comforts, and found m}- hand insensibly approach- ing my pocket, and my tones becoming far more soft and conciHatory. On going on shore I was surprised to see so many houses ; the island contains altogether about 600 people. Our pilot was evidently a great man in the place ; he talked an immensity about his workmen, and showed us the foundations of a house they were building, which was to cost 8,000 francs. He kept a sort of inn, and invited me to come in with him and drink, but on my informing him that I would rather eat, replied that he had nothing to offer me but bacon. On leaving the house with Brown to stroll round the island, I met a priest, who pre- sented a most fantastical appearance. He looked as though he had not washed or shaved for a week, wore immense spectacles, and with his large hat and his petticoats streaming in the wind was certainly as strange a combination as I ever beheld. He was, however, remarkably polite, and I should leave on record some of his civil speeches, had he not been far surpassed b}' the Syndic, who came up shortly afterwards, and grasped our hands as though we had been his oldest friends. He welcomed us officially as well as cordially to the island, and insisted on our LIFE AT MOLENE. 253 immediately accompanying him to his house — a substantial building surrounded by a little garden. This had once been a church, but a second story had been formed in it, and Brown stood amazed at the massive beams which supported the floor. ' Not too strong,' said the Syndic, observing him ; 'you should hear them dancing up there on wedding-days !' There were several chambers on this upper floor, one of which, according to the custom of the country, he used as his sitting and bed room. Here he motioned us to chairs, drew out a small table, and summoned his servant — an elderly woman — who speedily appeared. She seemed a most respectable person, and exerted herself greatly in our behalf, setting before us tumblers of raw brandy, to Brown's great horror, and following it up with Bordeaux wine and flaming mixture in a punchbowl. ' Well,' exclaimed Brown, unable to keep silence longer, ' I have heard of men drinking fire, but I never saw it before. Take care what you do, sir ; that's all pure spirit.' The eatables were not so plentiful, but the woman made us a savoury plat with potatoes and beefsteak, the only morsel of fresh meat, I believe, on the island — and mixed an excellent salad from 254 YACHTING. some lettuces of her own growing. During the meal the Mayor's wife, a pretty pleasant girl, came to ask our host to dine with them, who flattered us by observing that he preferred our company. Glasses were now filled, and we became more merry and communicative. It appeared that the Syndic's authority extended over all the adjacent islands, with the exception of Ushant. He was a naval officer, and was placed there to superintend the life-boat service. A great many shipwrecks take place around the islands, and the Government, to maintain an available amount of assistance, give support to the inhabitants for two months in the year. All exert themselves when a vessel is in danger — the women in praying and drawing the life-boat, the sailors in manning and launching it, and the priest in blessing the sea. ' That dog,' he continued, pointing to one in the room, ' has saved many lives, and can take a rope on board a wreck.' He was a fine animal of the sheep-dog species, and showed great intelligence. While we were at dinner he abstracted my gloves out of my pocket, and made a meal of them under the table. His master said he was good at catching rabbits, but, unfortunately, there were none in Molene, although plenty in the smaller islands. Our host had all the good-humour and vivacity LIFE A T MOLENE. 2 5 5 of a Frenchman, and as his hbations grew deeper, became more and more confidential. He told us all about his private affairs with an absence of reserve seldom found in Englishmen. ' I live here all alone,' he observed, ' except for a month or so, when my wife comes from Brest to pay me a visit. Having been all my life in the navy, and visited nearly every country in the world, I now like the quiet and isolation of the Molene, where I expect to end my days. I should like, perhaps, a little more society, for the priest is the only educated man on the island ; the Mayor is an honest fellow, but a mere peasant. My annual income from the Government amounts to 2,000 francs, and I pay twenty francs a year for my house. I pay my servant, whom you saw, eight francs a month, for which she cooks, cleans the rooms, and digs the garden. There is my establishment. There is the carpet on which my dog sleeps ; here are my clothes ' — pulling some of them out of a chest of drawers, and holding them up — ' and there is my bed, very much at your service if you like to sleep in it ; or you either,' he added, turning to Brown. The latter shook his head, and made him understand that he couldn't sleep anywhere while the yacht was in such a dangerous position. Mine host laughed, and told him all was safe, and 2 56 YACHTING. that he might ' sleep on his ear.' At the same time he kept pressing him to take some wine, and evidently could not understand his being a tee- totaler, or why he would not drink. At length he began to make fun of him for looking grave, and to poke him good-humouredly in the ribs — an operation which Brown did. not appreciate, and seemed a little inclined to resent. The latter finally rose, and observed that he did not like to stay longer away from the vessel. Soon after his departure we left the house to walk round the island. The Syndic talked by the way about politics and international matters. He was evidently greatly impressed with the power and glory of France. ' We like the English,' he observed, ' and wish to be on good terms with them. It is to the interest of both that we should be allied. France and England together can command the world. You want us very much in India.' ' I was not aware of that,' I replied. ' Oh yes,' he explained ; ' to withstand the Russians. They are making great encroachments in India, and you want us to keep them out for you. You'll be obliged to call us in sooner or later. We respect all nations, but we also defy them — we defy them.' LIFE A T MOLENE. 2 5 7 The island, which is somewhat rocky, appeared to be about a mile in diameter, and slightly elevated towards the centre. We passed a con- siderable number of cows grazing, and several fields of barley, which grows well here, although wheat will not thrive. I was told that there were figs, pears, and grapes here, although not at Ushant ; but they must have been on a small scale, for I saw no signs of them. The principal source of profit in this and the smaller islands is from burning seaweed to make soda — a manu- facture protected by the Government. So con- siderable a business of this kind was carried on formerly on the coast of Scotland and Ireland, that the repeal of the duty on barilla and salt, from which soda is obtained, threw 20,000 people in Orcadia alone out of employment. After our walk we proceeded to the church, where, although it was late, we found several peasants at their devotions. Thence we visited the Mayor, a man of corporate proportions, very affable, and very well contented with himself, and evidently not altogether pleased with the Syndic's excuses and disparagement of the island. From this we returned to the pilot's house. Although the exterior of it had that neglected appearance not uncommon in France, and the lower rooms 17 258 yachting: were full of sailors carousing, the upper apartment, into which I was shown, was remarkably neat. It contained two irreproachable beds, and its walls were adorned with alternate pictures of saints and naval combats. Finding the room so comfortable, I determined to remain in it for the night, following Brown's recommendation, who said I should not be able to sleep comfortably on board. I accordingly directed that the table beside the bed should be prepared, and ordered an omelet and bottle of wine for the Syndic and myself ; and the pilot soon honoured us with the presence of himself and his bottle of brandy. I took the opportunity of complaining to the Syndic of the overcharge to which I had been subjected ; but that good-natured functionary evidently recognised the difference between a foreigner and a neighbour, and only shrugged his shoulders and begged him to be ' reasonable,' and to 'continue in his honour- able course !' With regard to his state of in- ebriation, he said the pilot was of more use when he was drunk than when he was sober — an obser- vation which I thought did not argue well for his skill in navigation, but he explained himself to mean that a man had sometimes more energy when he was intoxicated, and would avoid danger which otherwise he might run into. LIFE AT MOLENE. 259 The pilot's wife was a thin careworn creature, with a scared expression of countenance, but would have been decidedly good looking, had not the life she had led made her prematurely old. She spoke with great feeling of the disasters which were constantly occurring on the coast, and of the mutilated state in which shipwrecked people were brought into the inn. I was the first person from England, she said, who had come as a visitor to the island. The husband, with whom inebria- tion seemed to be a normal state, went on through the evening talking very thickly and incoherently, and summoning his wife, Justine, every now and then by stamping on the floor with his heavy wooden-soled boots. Sometimes he grew irritable, sometimes jovial and generous ; and in one of these latter fits he exuberantly said he would give me anything he possessed in the world except his wife, but that he could not afford to part with her, as she was very good to him, and never required to he kicked. It was midnight before this worthy took his departure, and in bidding good-night he told me that I must be ready to start at five in the morning. The Syndic observed that as it was late, and there was another bed in the room, he might as well occupy it and remain till morning. Before four 17 — 2 26o YACHTING. o'clock, his dog, who seemed to have as little regard for his master's orders as the other inhabi- tants of the island, commenced howling and barking in a manner which made sleep impossible, and I accordingly rose and dressed myself. At five, after thanking and shaking hands with the Syndic in his bed, I presented myself below. The pilot was not ready, but even at that early hour the house was full of fishermen, smoking and drinking brandy. The spirit principally consumed here is a deleterious and spurious cau de vie, made from beet root, and unfortunately very cheap. At six the pilot made his appearance, somewhat more sensible than the night before. It was sad to see such a strong young man ruining his con- stitution early in life. He told me that there were three pilots belonging to the island, but that two were away, and that more money could be made in fishing than in piloting. Although still not per- fectly clear in his head, he was much more polite than on the previous day. He told me, indeed, on our being settled in his boat, that he felt a very great respect for me, and would hoist a flag in my honour — a very dirty one which he pulled out of his pocket. I cared little for his appreciation, having made up my mind that he was a drunkard and a cheat. LIFE AT MOLENE. 261 Although Brest is a fine town and has a splendid harbour, there is little merchant shipping there. But the naval establishments are magnificent, and the sailors are a remarkably fine body of men — a great contrast to the French soldiers. We happened to be there when the strawberries were in season, and the whole town was fragrant with them. They are cultivated upon the hill-sides along the river, and can be bought for two or three sous a pound. CHAPTER Vn. Roscoff. — The Bretons.— Sark. On our return voyage * up along,' we put into Roscoff (Rosecough our men called it), a small town in Brittany, little known, but the place where Mary Queen of Scots landed when a child. It is now mostly remarkable for its vivarium, and for a gigantic fig-tree. The latter is in the garden of the Capuchin convent, and its branches, which are supported by thirty stone pillars, would afford shade to two hundred persons. We found it in perfect health, covered with fruit, and in need of constant pruning to keep it within bounds. The day after our arrival we rowed to a point 262 YACHTING. outside the harbour, to visit the great receptacle for lobsters and crayfish. It is the largest in France, and has been formed by running a wall across an inlet of the sea. The water was beautifully transparent, and we could plainly observe the strange-looking inhabitants — the red crayfish clustered together along the banks, and the black lobsters gliding over the bottom. The former are a quiet and dignified community, but the latter are vicious and pugnacious, often engaging one another in deadly combats, which terminate in the vanquished being not only beaten but eaten. The fish are sent to Paris and London — in the former capital the crayfish are preferred. We were told there were 20,000 fish in the preserve, and that 30,000 escaped through a hole the year before, causing the property a loss of as many francs. But Roscoff has also a fragrant celebrity. It is the chief port for the onion trade, and I am afraid is responsible for those sailors in blue suits and broad-brims who perambulate our sea-coast towns in the summer carrying long odorous strings. The day before our departure a vessel left with a cargo of this kind for Guernsey. She was as crazy an old smack as ever I beheld, but the captain told me he had several ' lady-passengers ' — that is, ROSCOFF. 263 onion ladies — who were going to be present at the sale of their crops. The day of leaving was made the occasion for a general jollification ; the virtues of cau de vie were put to the test, and the result was an almost incredible uproar and confusion. Before loosing from the quay, a conflict carried on with rotten onions took place between those on board and those on shore, and as the craft moved away the clamour was redoubled, rival shoutings and screechings were raised on both sides, and one man danced so vigorously in his sabots on the deck that the captain, afraid of his falling overboard, took the precaution of having him lashed to the mast. At length they were out of sight and hearing, and I afterwards con- gratulated myself that I did not form one of the jovial company, for the wind turned against them, and before daylight they encountered a very heavy sea. (They were out two days and nights.) The captain of the craft was an Englishman, and before leaving very civilly sent us a present of fish. I called to thank him, and he told me his crew was composed entirely of Frenchmen, and that he did not place much confidence in them. The winter before last he had lost a fine vessel on that coast. A gale came on, and the men all went below to say their prayers when they were most c64 YACHTING. wanted on deck. In vain he implored them to come up,and pray and work at the same time. They were obdurate ; but when the vessel finally struck, they rushed up and took possession of the boat, leaving him alone on board, so that had not a pilot-boat accidentally come up he could not possibly have survived. The French coast is more dangerous than ours, and the French sailors less capable, so that they have an habitual dread of the sea, and, when any difficulty arises, are inclined to think their only hope of safety lies in the special interposition of Heaven. The lives of the Breton peasants in this neigh- bourhood are primitive in the extreme. They may be said to be self-supporting, for they buy scarcely anything with the exception of clothes. They rise at five, and the young men and girls go forth to labour in the fields. One elderly woman — the mother generally — stays at home to prepare the meals, which she does three times a day, with an amount of care that would surprise the wife of an English peasant. She shreds the onions into the great black pot, which is always hanging over the hearth, and after frying them judiciously with lard, throws in a dishful of sliced potatoes ; measures accurately the quantity of water to be added, and seasons the whole with a handful of THE BRETONS. 265 black salt. She then sets a sufficient number of bowls, clean and bright, upon the wooden table, and shreds into each some of the great dark household loaf. The family, who have made a light meal at six, return from their work and assemble round the board at twelve, and again at seven, each meal consisting of the same description of soup. At eight they retire for the night, the same room being kitchen, parlour and bedchamber. All the rest of the rooms above and below are used for lumber and stores, and are usually half empty. Their beds, according to the number of the family, are shut in by wooden slides along the wall, and resemble the berths on board ship. There is also very often in the centre of the room a square wooden box, which looks like a large safe or a high family pew, and affords ample and luxurious accommodation for the master and mistress of the house. All this panelling is kept very bright, and generally ornamented with carv- ing; and the whole apartment, with its wide hearth and swinging caldron, gives an idea of old-fashioned comfort and simplicity. The family generally keep a pig and a cow, to supply them with milk and meat, make their own bread and butter, and grow their vegetables. They also knit their own stockings, where such articles are worn ; but they are not 266 VA CHTING. generally in use, a wisp of straw stuffed into the sabot being generally the cheap and fashionable substitute. We were fortunate in the breeze on our voyage to Sark, and made a rapid passage. There is no harbour in the island, and as we had only a choice of roadsteads, determined upon selecting the nearest, and anchored to the north of Brechou, a small island divided from Sark by a narrow channel. Sark rises everywhere precipitously from the sea, and the view through this channel, in the centre of which stands a tall conical rock, to the headland beyond, is remarkably fine. We rowed round a point to Port de Moulin, to find an easier passage over the cliffs, and disembarking, seated ourselves on some boulders which stood in the upper end of a beach of smooth stones. The rocks here were of grand proportions, not of a dull gray, but of a roseate hue, and seemed to have taken strangely fanciful forms. On one side was a natural arch- way, through which you could see a square solid rock of great size rising in isolated majesty from the waves ; on the other stood a vast mass — a small mountain, separated from the cliff by a very narrow fissure, and pierced by a cavernous tunnel ; while its summit was crowned by a rocky pile not un- hke a ruined castle. (This latter is Tintageux, a SAJ^A\ 267 Celtic name, reminding us of old Cornwall.) The semicircular cliffs above us were adorned with bright green ivy. I determined to wait on this shore, and to em- bark at low water to visit the caves for which the vicinity is celebrated. In rowing along to the south west we observed several fissures and cavities in the cliffs ; but the first of considerable size was at the end of a narrow creek, and rose above us like a vast portal. As we steered in between the lofty faces of rock the water became bright and smooth as a mirror, and it was difficult to believe that the luxuriance of marine vegeta- tion was not reflected from above. In some places white rocks or sand shone from below, and brought the forms of the overhanging fuci into beautiful relief. We disembarked at the entrance of the cave with some little difficulty, on account of the size of the boulders which formed its floor. Advancing and climbing over round prostrate masses, such as I have heard aptly termed ' rocks' eggs,' we came to a pool, through which we were compelled to wade — so transparent was it, that before I was aware I had stepped up to my ankle in water. It was like an agate, and on the bottom we observed star-fish, echini, and sea anemones like blue and white flowers, some 268 YACHTING. resembling daisies, some stonecrops, some mesem- bryanthemums. As I was passing from one sub- merged boulder to another, I suddenly perceived something moving in the water, and a hideous creature with large eyes, bag-like body, and very long legs came sliding along in a most ungainly and alarming fashion. It was of a dark brown colour, but on rising to the surface changed to blue, and assumed a most diabohcal appearance ; while with its tapering legs, or rather arms, it kept insidiously exploring all the recesses in the neighbourhood. The animal was one of those pieuvrcs of which Victor Hugo has written, and his thrilling story about the fisherman is not without foundation, for these feelers have great power of adhesion, and cling tightly to everything with which they come in contact.* On re-embarking we rowed still farther towards * Brown told me he had once seen a bell-diver at Naples come up with a creature of this kind attached to his back, and that his companion in removing it tore off a considerable portion of the man's flesh. Sir Grenville Temple told an anecdote showing in what manner people may lose their lives by these animals. A Sardinian captain bathing at Terbeh, in the Mediterranean, felt one of his feet grasped ; he tried with his other foot to disengage himself, but this was immediately caught by another of the monster's arms. He then seized it with his hands, but these also in succession were firmly grasped by the polypus, and the unfortunate man was found drowned with all his limbs strongly bound together, in water only four feet deep. SA/^A'. 269 the south-west, the granite cliffs towering above in massive grandeur, and assuming a green tint in their highest acdivities. Green was also the prevailing colour in the next cavern we entered, which was of greater altitude than the last men- tioned, but not of such length or regular propor- tions. The floor was strewn, as in the other cases, with blocks of granite; but as they were not generally above two or three feet wide, we sur- mounted them easily. On arriving at the central and darkest part of the cavern I suddenly beheld on one side a stream of white light. I found that I was looking through a dark gallery in the rock, and that within lay a clear lakelet, across which the sun was casting a line of silver. By moving my position I could see farther down this rugged passage, and at its termination there was another small lake of a bright turquoise blue, sur- rounded by columns and arches of crimson rock. The scene, lit up by the sun, had a magical effect, and was like some artificial representations of the abodes of sea-deities. The form of the cavern was triangular, the floor being an obtuse angle subtending the broad roof, which at its farther end expanded into a vast natural dome, about a hundred feet high, looking out upon the sea through three archways. But the most wonder- 270 YACHTING. ful part was the incrustation upon the walls, which were covered with crimson and green sea anemones, as with rubies and emeralds. Brown said they looked like bunches of cherries, but I preferred the former simile. There were also, in some parts, beautiful sponges, pink, orange, and crimson, and thick coatings of barnacles. These caves stand beside the narrow strait which divides Brechou from Sark. By the daring act of passing through this channel in a ten-gun brig, Sir James (Lord) de Saumerez, a Jersey man, escaped being taken by a French frigate. The tide was running so strong that we should have been unable to return had we continued, and so we returned back towards Pointe du Nez. This headland has obtained a sad celebrity from the late Governor of the island (preceding the Rev. Mr. Collins) having perished in the waves beneath it. The tide runs with great force round this point, and as the ground beneath is very rocky, the water is much broken. One night the lord of the isle, who was unmarried, had for some reason, which we can only divine from his perse- verance, set his heart upon being present at a certain ball in Guernsey. The wind howled, the waves roared, and the surf was running so high at Creux that no boat could put to sea. The old SA/?A'. 271 sailors shook their heads when they heard of the Governor's determination ; but men were found hardy and loyal enough to make the attempt, and a boat was launched from the Esperquerie on the east of Pointe du Nez. It was only a small craft, capable of being easily beached, for only such could find shelter on that exposed coast. They held their own tolerably well till they reached the dreaded race or eddy, but there the waves became terrific, and, after one or two had broken over the little bark, a foaming mass caught her on the side and turned her completely over. We landed on the western side of this mournful promontory to visit a group of caves known as the Boutiques. After climbing over a barrier of rocks and wading through a pool of water, such as seems generally to lie at the mouth of tidal caverns, we reached a large circular chamber, the walls of which were of a rich red ochre colour. Beside the grand portal we found another some- what smaller, and just within it a roseate pool ; for although many of the boulders which enclosed it were deep green, those forming the basin were clothed with a soft, rosy bloom. The water itself was full of beautiful rhodosperms, which floated through it to the very bottom, like fringes of crimson moss. Every little spray in it was plainly 272 YACHTING. discernible, for the liquid medium seemed as clear as air. Several of the stones round the margin were beaded with small rare crimson zoophytes, and deep on a smooth face of rock in the centre of the pool lay a large blue anemone, a streaming cluster like a velvet tassel. But perhaps the most remarkable effect was produced by a seaweed, apparently of the Carrigeen species, which glanced like blue enamel. Outside this silent cavern the wild cry of the seamew re-echoed round the cliffs ; and the booming of the waves, eager to enter their domains, warned us not to prolong our stay. Sark produces some of the finest zoophytes in Europe, and they are largely exported. Little Sark is connected with Sark by a ridge 300 feet high, and at its summit but six wide. This peninsula contains the Pot, below which are found agates and jaspers. Here, and in neigh- bouring places, we observed excavations where trials had been made for silver, and on the other side of Little Sark stand the ruins of buildings raised for mining. Seventy-two thousand pounds were expended, and a shaft sunk so deep from the top of the cliff that the workmen could hear the stones rolling in the sea above them ; but very little metal was obtained, and it was at length dis- covered, as is not uncommonly the case, that the SAA'A: 273 only real mine was in the shareholders' pockets. Retracing our steps, we visited the Creux Terrible, which is a finer specimen than the Pot, the Devil's Frying Pan in Cornwall, or even the Devil's Limekiln in Lundy. It is a square pit in the rock, like a large funnel, about 300 feet deep, and opening into the sea at the bottom through two orifices. At high tide the sea enters, and boils within it with great commotion. The gardens of the Seigneurie are, by the kind permission of the Governor, open to the public, and are considered by most visitors to be the chief attraction in the island. Heliotropes and veronicas are very successfully cultivated here, attaining considerable size ; and a remarkably pretty effect was produced by three kinds of roses twined together round poles thirty feet high. The most attractive part of the garden is near the house, where some tasteful openings have been made, displaying combinations of. ivied arches, flower-knots, and stately forest trees. 18 274 YACHTING. CHAPTER VHI. Cherbourg. — Louise. The lighthouse on Cape de la Hague* is plainly visible from Alderney, and Cherbourg lies about ten miles distant. We left our moorings in clear weather, but a dense fog set in before we reached the latter port. I accordingly joined my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Wiltshire, and their little daughter below, and did not return to the deck for nearly two hours, when I called to the captain to know where we were. * Entering the roadstead, sir,' was the reply, ' here's the breakwater with all the mortars sitting up on it like so many dogs.' I found that the mist had cleared away, and that we were really passing the celebrated work, which Napoleon likened to one of the wonders of Egypt. But the credit of the undertaking was not entirely due to him — it had been carried on by every Government since the days of Louis XIV. The next object of interest at Cherbourg is the dockyard, and we accordingly made our way in ■"' The port of La Hogue, where James IL saw the French rieet destroyed, is about 30 miles farther to the east. CHERBOURG. 275 that direction on the day after our arrival — pro- ceeding to it through a magnificent avenue of trees. At the portal, however, we were met by an officer who informed us that, being foreigners, we must obtain a permit from the Prefecture ; and then from one Bureau we were sent to another, until we found ourselves at the British Consulate. The Consul was fortunately at home, and he kindly showed us over his beautiful gardens, where the mildness of the climate enabled him to grow the palm and date, and the rocky character of the ground had afforded slopes and precipices of which the landscape-gardener had taken full advantage. This garden, and that of the Seigneurie at Sark, and of Tresco Abbey at Scilly, are more striking than any others I have seen in England or France — regarding the rarity and profusion of the flowers, the position and character of the grounds, and the taste with which they have been laid out. At length, having taken the Consul's note to the Prefecture — an establishment with the where- abouts of which even the soldiers and sailors were profoundly ignorant — we again presented our- selves at the dock gates. This time we were received with due respect, and were informed that a guide would attend us to explain the works. 18—2 276 YACHTING. We mentall}- chid this functionary for delay many times before he arrived, but we found we had done him an injustice, for he had been employed in adorning his person for our benefit, and came out dusting his boots with his pocket handkerchief. He was, nevertheless, but a poor specimen of humanity, and his clothes hung in melancholy folds down his lank figure. When his toilet was completed, he pulled out of his pocket the card of introduction on which our names were inscribed, and began with difficulty to try to decipher them : 'Veel — Vill — Vel — sure. Is that your name, sir ?' ' No !' was the indignant reply — ' Wiltshire.' * Welsh — Welsher,' he muttered, by no means convinced, and casting a suspicious glance at us. ' What do you wish to see ?' 'The docks, of course.' ' Oh L very well. Would you like to see the corn-mill ?' ' Corn-mill ! No, the ships.' * You see, sir,' he continued, as he led the wa)-, * Fm not a sailor, I am " militaire ;"' — he was a policeman — * and I do not know much about the place.' He showed us several provision stores, and was evidently much irritated on being told by Mrs. CHERBOURG. 277 Wiltshire, who was in a patriotic mood, that we had much better in England. At length, on little Emily's laughing at the gaunt figure, I beheve, of our guide as he strode before us, his patience fairly gave way, and he turned sharply round. • What are you laughing at ?' he demanded fiercely. ' You are laughing at the tails of my coat,' ' No !* replied Mrs. Wiltshire, somewhat alarmed, 'we were only afraid of your sword.' ' Humph !' he grunted, ' that's because 3'ou're English; the French don't know fear.' Mr. Wiltshire and I endeavoured by praising everything to atone for any offence his dignity might have suffered, and by degrees we put him into better humour. 'What are those?' inquired Mrs. Wiltshire, indicating a party of priests, who had just crossed our road. 'Those, madame? they're — danics noires.' ' But do they belong to the naval establishment ?' • No ; pavhleu ! Sailors don't want priests. Ours would rather have a bottle of wine than a priest any day, and yours would rather have a glass of brandy.' ' It is not proper to speak lightly of religion,' observed Mrs. Wiltshire seriously ; ' I am no 278 YACHTING. friend of priests or priestcraft, and ever}' sensible person must object, on scriptural grounds, to many of the Romish doctrines, such as Transub- stantiation. Penance, and ' ' Yes, madame,' he interrupted, 'you Protestants have the best of it.' ' You see there,' she observed, turning to me triumphantly, ' thc}- cannot deny the superiority of our Church.' She saw by my manner that I was not much interested, for I saw the man was made of im- penetrable cla}-. ' Yes, madame,' he continued with emphasis, ' I should well like to be a Protestant — they've nothing to pay /' ' I hope that is not your only reason,' she returned, much annoyed. ' Religion is of supreme importance, especially to soldiers and sailors, who are constantly exposed to danger, and liable to be called into eternity at any moment. There is a life after this, you know.' ' Some people think so,' he replied, looking absently at the clock. ' Should you like to see the Salle d'Armes ?' Mrs. Wiltshire was too much shocked to vouch- safe any answer. I never expected much good from this sour republican, and so gave our consent, and CHERBOURG. 279 we were ushered into a large hall, ornamented with trophies and devices formed of new and ancient weapons. Thence we proceeded to the basins, and admired the long line of old wooden ships which stands along the quay, their quaint figure-heads in old fashioned costumes remind- ing us of the days of the Bourbons, There were also some interesting memorials of the Great Napoleon. ' You see, the basins are all cut out of the solid rock, monsieur,' observed our guide. ' Millions have been expended on them — the town is rightly called Cherbourg.' We remained for some days in the town after this visit. Our attraction was the hotel, where we found the living and accommodation excellent. In Mr. Murray's Guide Book we sometimes found the doubtful recommendation, ' Dirty, but good cuisine' — a combination which, alas ! is not un- common in France. But here everything was in the most exquisite order — our table-linen was as white as driven snow, and our glasses sparkled like Alpine crystal. We were also especially pleased with the atten- dant, to whose care we were consigned. Her appearance recommended her as well as her assiduity. She was dressed in the large white cap 28o YACHTING. and becoming costume of Normandy, and was a remarkably fine specimen of a Frenchwoman — tall, well-formed, and of such proportions as bespeak activity and strength. She seemed to be made of sterner stuff than Englishwomen generally are, and wanted that softness which we admire in them ; but her features were regular ; her com- plexion, though bronzed, was clear, and her counte- nance was of that heroic cast which French sculptors love to reproduce. We heard that she was not in good health, and though she never complained, we were concerned to see her working so incessantly, and carrying up such heavy burdens. But what struck me as most remarkable about her was that she refused to accept money. Emily's light heart and hand occasioned many little domestic misfortunes, and a proportionate amount of additional work ; but on Mrs. Wiltshire offering Louise — for such was her name — some compensation, she only laughed, said she would receive nothing, and that it was a pleasure to do anything for ' mademoiselle.' Such conduct was to me unaccountable. I had never before met with any person who refused an oiTer of money, except one poor woman, who had afterwards to be placed in a lunatic asylum. One morning, about a week after our arrival, I LOUISE. 281 was surprised to find, on entering the breakfast- room, that the cloth was not laid for breakfast ; and when Mrs. Wiltshire entered she told her husband that she had been ringing for her maid, Simpkins, for the last half hour without success. On hearing this I determined to try the awakening power of the sitting-room bell, and plied it so vigorously that no one within a hundred yards of the house could have had the assurance to say he had not heard it. The appeal was too urgent to be neglected, and produced Timmings, who came running up breathless, and with a face full of alarming import. ' Oh, ma'am,' she gasped, ' I beg your pardon — I beg your pardon for keeping you waiting — but it has given me such a turn, I really could not come before.' Here she pressed her hand to her side, and, being rather stout, looked as though she were about to fall to pieces. ' What is it, Timmings ?' cried Mrs. Wiltshire, in an agony of suspense. ' Speak ! — Emily ?' ' No, it isn't her, ma'am — Miss Emily's all right ; it's Louise — Louise the maid — her as attends on you here !' 'What of her?' asked her mistress, much re- lieved, but interested. 2S2 YACHTING. ' Well, ma'am, I may as well begin from the beginning. As I was passing the door at seven o'clock this morning — it might have been ten minutes past seven, for I was a little late— I generally get up when I hear the clock strike six, but I didn't hear it this morning. I don't think much of the French clocks ' 'Never mind the clocks,' interposed Mr. Wilt- shire ; ' what about Louise ?' ' Well, sir, it was about ten minutes after seven, as I was passing the sitting-room door, I saw it open. So says I to myself, " What ! has master left the sitting-room door open ?" and I just went to look in, when who should I see there but Louise, lying in an arm-chair with the broom beside her. Oh ! but she did look dreadful bad, sir, all like a co'pse a'most, and I felt the cold shivers come over me. " Louise," says I, and with that she opened her eyes. " Whatever is the matter ?" She shook her head, but made no answer. I was so frightened, and I thought of the cholera morbuse, which is about the town, and called Maud, Madame Clement and her mother, and Marie and Adolphe, and they carried her up to bed ; and we've been rubbing her with brandy, and now a doctor's sent for.' As Mrs. Wiltshire was somewhat uneasy at LOUISE. 285 Timmings's suggestion of cholera, we sent for Madame Clement immediately after breakfast- It was some time before she arrived, accompanied by her husband, and they soon satisfied us that the illness was not infectious. The landlady afterwards, in a few words, informed Mrs. Wilt- shire, to her great astonishment, of the real cause of the poor girl's wretched condition. ' But what had become of the infant ?' That was now the question, and it was one at which the master of the house grew livid. He begged us to be silent, and to keep the matter as quiet as possible, for the French police were inexorable. Were any suspicion raised they would search every cranny and corner, tear down the fire- places, turn out the wine-cellars, uproot the house to its very foundations. He saw nothing before him but public exposure, and his customers migrating from the hotel en masse. He be- moaned himself as the most unfortunate of land- lords, and the miseries of Louise appeared to him to be insignificant in comparison with his own impending ruin. Every attention was paid to the sufferer, but she would give no information on the all im- portant subject. In vain the old grandmother exhausted all her blandishments by the bed-side; 284 YACHTING. in vain the little landlord gesticulated at the door. Chance fortunately brought to light what entreaty- could not elicit. One of the housemaids, on opening a china-closet adjoining our sitting-room, discovered the little object of our search wrapped up in one of the dinner-napkins. The good news spread like wildfire ; every one felt relieved, especially the master of the hotel. The only circumstance which marred his satisfaction was that the child was not found alive. This entailed two difficulties. The first was soon disposed of : the family doctor gave a certificate to say that death ensued from natural causes immediately after birth. The second was of a religious character ; it was necessary that the child should have been baptized to entitle it to Christian burial. The Romanists enforce this rule strictly, and to the letter, whereas our clergy think it best to avoid asking questions and creating diffi- culties. The Roman Church, however, while it renders the rite obligatory, affords greater facilities for its administration. Laymen are allowed to perform it, and in the present case a visitor in the hotel, who had accidentally be- come acquainted with the circumstances, threw some water over the dead infant, and certified to the authorities that it had been duly baptized. LOUISE. 285 The priests arrived the next mornings and re- moved the body, chanting the solemn service, and preceded by white-robed torch-bearers ; and this httle traveller was conducted to his last resting-place with the same offices of the Church as if he had lived to a ripe old age and died full of j^ears and honours. There was only one difference — there were no mourners ; poor little Louis Fleury had no one to follow him to his long home. He had but one to lament him, and she could not be present. But she followed him in heart, though not in person, and he could not have had a more sincere mourner. All cause for anxiety seemed now removed, and Louise was tended with unremitting care. But imagine what a shock our feelings received, when three days afterwards the little coffin re- appeared, accompanied by a file of police ! They marched with clanking boots into the hotel, and choked up the hall, and the entrance through which all the visitors passed, with their long swords and cocked hats. M. Clement could not believe but that they were making themselves intentionally and maliciously conspicuous. Such an exhibition would have brought disgrace on a private house — to an hotel it threatened bankruptcy. The gendarincs, hov.ever, would 286 YACHTING. listen to no remonstrance, but two of them demanded to be shown into Louise's bedroom, while the remainder were left to keep watch at the door. Louise was, of course, in a very feeble state, and the poor thing trembled like an aspen leaf on hearing the dreadful tidings. But the emissaries of the law seemed to possess neither compassion nor delicacy. They crowded up the stairs, stalked into the middle of the room, demanded whether her name was that in their warrant, and then ordered her to rise instantly, and prepare to accompany them. In vain she and kind Madame Clement prayed that she might be allowed at least to dress herself in private, promising to be ready in a few minutes. They refused to make any concession, and it was through such humiliation as this that she was rudely borne to prison. What could she expect from people who had treated their own Queen with similar brutality ? I happened to be standing in the passage when she was brought down, and I never saw her look more handsome. Her complexion seemed as white, and her features as sharply cut, as though she had been marble ; and the indignities she had suffered had given her a dauntless, almost a defiant expression. I could not avoid addressing LOUISE. 287 a word of comfort to her as she stood between those grim, hard-looking officials. ' Louise,' I said, ' may God protect you !' She looked round, made no reply, but burying her face in her hands, burst into tears. A word of kindness could touch the heart which no indig- nities could conquer. When we had somewhat recovered from the shock, I sought the landlord, to inquire what had been the cause of the visit of the police. He said he feared that the servants of the hotel had been tattling outside about the affair, and that the carpenter who made the coffin, or some of the female neighbours, had been over-inquisi- tive, and so the unfortunate occurrence had come to the knowledge of the authorities. We all took so much interest in the fate of Louise, standing in the flower of youth and strength on the very brink of death, accused of a crime that might lead to her execution, and that by the guillotine, that Mrs. Wiltshire applied for per- mission to visit her in prison. This, after some formalities had been complied with, was granted, and the day and hour fixed. Mr. Wiltshire sup- posed that he would have been allowed to accom- pany his wife, although his name was not inserted in the permit ; but he found he was mistaken, as 288 YACirriXG. the police regulations were stringent on the sub- ject. His wife felt, naturally, very nervous at the thought of traversing the dark, narrow passages alone with her grim escort, but she determined not to be deterred from her charitable undertaking. The French police are a severe, forbidding set of men, and they have none of those pretty ways which make the London ' blue ' so acceptable in the public-house, and so irresistible on the area step. They seem, on the contrary, to have no feelings in common with the rest of mankind, and Mrs. Wiltshire felt an involuntary chill pass over her as she gazed at their inflexible features, and thought how little consideration poor Louise could expect from them in her desolate and appalling position. While thoughts such as these were passing through her mind, she found herself in a small chamber, or rather closet, into which a little aperture scarcely admitted the light of day. On one side was a double grating, so contrived b}- means of close interlacing bars, and the distance between the barriers, that it would have been almost impossible to transmit any article through it. She gave an involuntary shudder as the gaoler proceeded to close and double-lock behind her the door of the narrow, dismal cell, and LOUISE. 289 begged that it might not be entirely closed. But the functionary merely replied that he must obey his orders, and shot the massive bolts. Then, passing round to the other side of the grating, he unlocked a gate, which, as it groaned upon its hinges, discovered a yard beyond, secured at every point of access by heavy iron gratings. Within this ill-omened precinct sat several squalid, repul- sive-looking women in moody silence or listless conversation ; and at one side Louise was plainly recognisable, standing aloof from the rest, and easily distinguished by the neatness of her dress and the snowy whiteness of her country cap. She was motionless, and looked inexpressibly sad, as if overcome by the sense of her degradation. It is surprising what an effect is produced, except upon the hardened, by the mere consciousness of being in prison. There must be something in the mere atmosphere of the place, which seems to convey a taint, if we may judge by the feelings of the inmates. The statuesque girl started with a look of terror as the gaoler thundered out from the iron gate, 'Louise Fleury!' She came forward trembling, and when she entered the passage and saw Mrs. Wiltshire on the other side of the grating, she seemed reassured, but, unable to restrain her 19 290 VA CHTING. grief, burst into a paroxysm of sobs. The lady- said, in gentle terms, that the object of her visit was not to aggravate her sorrow but to bring consolation, to express her hope that she might be proved innocent of the grave charge preferred against her, and to inquire what she wished to have in the way of clothes, or such little gifts as were allowed to the untried prisoners. Poor Louise was very anxious that her mistress should take charge of her box, in which were some little trinkets she valued, and also that her thimbles and needles and thread should be sent to her, as, though the prison authorities provided materials, they did not provide the means of working them. Mrs. Wiltshire then asked her whether, since her imprisonment, she had heard from the man who had been the cause of her misery. Her face flushed with indignation as she replied emphatically : * No ; he has never written or inquired since.' ' Does he know the position in which you are placed ?' ' He knows it, but does not care so long as he is not troubled.' She spoke with so much emotion, and at the same time with so much reserve upon the subject, LOUISE. 291 that Mrs. Wiltshire refrained from making further inquiries as to whether any marriage had taken place. On one point Louise was inflexible ; suffer what she might, she would never betray the name of this unworthy man. 'You have parents?' continued Mrs. Wiltshire. ' They have written to you ?' ' No,' she replied ; ' they do not know where I am. I left my place and came to Cherbourg un- known to my friends. What will become of me ?' she exclaimed. ' If the worst does not happen, they will send me to prison at Rennes for five years ! I shall then be cast forth with- out a home, and without a character to procure one !' Mrs. Wiltshire was greatly affected. She told her that she should place her trust above, and added that she had a good friend in Madame Clement, the mistress of the hotel, and that she herself would not forget her. At length the visitor was informed that the time allowed for the interview had expired, and she bade a sad farewell (perhaps for the last time) to one who, at the commencement of our short sojourn in the town, had seemed, in the bloom and confidence of youth, to be looking forward to a happy life. ig — 2 292 YACHTING. Our stay at Cherbourg was now drawing to a close, but before leaving we added our mite to the subscription which had been set on foot in the hotel for poor Louise, that she should not be entirely penniless if released from prison. It amounted to about three hundred francs, and had to be put in trust for her, and her box of clothes to be inscribed with M. Clement's name to pre- vent its being appropriated by the authorities. We wrote a strong testimonial in her favour to be presented on her trial, to corroborate the evidence of the master and mistress on her behalf. During the winter we received the welcome intelligence that Louise had been acquitted, and that she had been received back by M. and Madame Clement — partly from charitable motives, partly because they had found her such an efficient servant. These tidings were truly gratifying, and when Mr. and Mrs. Wiltshire visited Cherbourg the following year, the latter said she should cer- tainly inquire for her, but added that she should treat her distantly and not make a pet of one who had certainly been guilty of great duplicity, and, although acquitted of crime, had laid herself open to a grave charge. Alas ! we were never called upon to treat her either LOUISE. 293 with kindness or reserve. She had indeed re- turned to the hotel, but she would not under- take her former duties, for she shunned the light of day and the face of human kind. Her mistress considerately employed her in needle- work in a back room, into which no one else was allowed to enter, and where for several weeks she worked indefatigably. But the cold and damp of the prison had, in her feeble state, laid the seeds of incurable disease. She gradually drooped and languished, until she was unequal to any exertion ; and, although Madame Clement supplied her with every comfort, she requested to be removed to a hospital, as she could not bear to be a burden. There, after three days, she breathed her last — without a relation to attend her — with no one beside her but the mistress of the hotel, whose heart had been touched by her misfortunes, and by the patience with which she had borne them. She sank back into a sweet sleep with her hopes fixed on heaven, and we were told that the ex- pression of her countenance was as peaceful and serene as though she had already become a beati- fied spirit. It was, perhaps, for the best that she was removed from this censorious world. She is now far beyond the reach of the slights and re- proaches of man, and is gone to a more merciful 294 YACHTING. Judge than any she would have had upon earth Hood beautifully teaches us how to bid farewell to such a child of sorrow : ' Cross her hands humbly, As if praying dumbly, Over her breast. Owning her weakness, Her evil behaviour, And leaving in meekness Her sins to her Saviour.' HOMEWARD BOUND. Time was, when gazing on the starry sky, Bright constellations led the sailor's eye, And Northern Bear or Southern Cross by night Taught him to steer his pathless course aright. But now, where'er the mariner may roam, One single influence guides him to his home ; To that he looks, and its unerring hand O'er watery wastes points out his native land. And thus when life grows weary of the tide. One single spirit, whispering at our side, Shall bid us ' Come ' — and lead the happy way To some fair haven in the isles of day. Elliot Stock, Paternoster Rozu, London. * UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-42m-8,'49(B5573)444 ^^i#i* l^R L*-^str:..nge - 4B83 l/ert de Vert's