r 11 k v i; HISTORY BIRMINGHAM By WILLIAM HUTTON, F. A. S. S. CONl INIF.J) TO THE PRESENT TIMS, CATHERINE HUTTON STfce Jfourtf) (EEUttion. LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. NICHOLS AND SON, RKD LION PASSAGE, FLEET-STREET, AND '25, PARLIAMENT-STREET; AND BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, PATERNOSTER-ROW 1819. I'rintctl by J. Nichols, and Son, Rfd Li, ,11 1'assapr, Fleet-street, London. I ^13 advertisement. Various circumstances delayed the pub- lication of the present edition of the History of Birmingham, till it was become necessary to make some additions to the work of the author. Almost all the information prior to the year 1814 has been supplied by himself; all subsequent to that period has been add- ed, to the best of her power, though not to the extent of her wishes, by his daughter, CATHERINE HUTTON. Bennett's Hill, Jan. 1st, 1819. PREFACE. A PREFACE generally induces a man to speak of himself, which is deemed the worst sub- ject upon which he can speak. In a History we become acquainted with things, but in a Preface with the author ; and, for a man to treat of himself, may be the most difficult task of the two; for in history, facts are produced ready to the hand of the Historian, which give birth to thought, and it is easy to clothe that thought in words: but in a Preface, an author is obliged to forge from the brain, where he is sometimes known to forge without fire. In one case he only reduces a substance into form ; but in the other, he must create that substance. As I am not an author by profession, it is no wonder if I am unacquainted with the modes of authorship ; but I apprehend, the usual method of conducting the pen, is to polish up a sound- ing title-page, dignified with scraps of Latin, and then to hammer up a work to fit it, as nearly as genius, or want of genius, will allow. VI PREFACE. We next turn over' a new leaf, and open upon a pompous Dedication, which answers many laudable purposes : if a coat of arms, correctly engraven, should step first into view, we con- sider it a singular advantage gained over a reader, like the first blow in a combat. The Dedication itself becomes a pair of stilts, which advances an author something higher. As a horse-shoe, nailed upon the threshold of a cottage, prevents the influence of the witch ; so a first-rate name, at the head of a Dedication, is a total bar against the critic ; but this great name, like a great officer, some- times unfortunately stands at the head of wretched troops. When an author is too heavy to swim of himself, it serves as a pair of bladders, to pre- vent his sinking. It is farther productive of a solid advantage, that of a present from the patron, more valua- ble than that from the bookseller, which pre- vents his sinking under the pressure of famine. But, being wholly unknown to the great names of literary consequence, I shall not at- tempt a Dedication, therefore must lose the be- nefit of the stilt, the bladder, and the horse-shoe. Were I to enter upon a Dedication, I should certainly address myself " To the inhabitants of Birmingham." For to them I not only owe much, but all ; and I think, among that congre- gated mass there is not one person to whom I PREFACE. VH wish ill. I have the pleasure of calling many of those inhabitants friends, and some of them share my warm affections equally with myself. Birmingham, like a compassionate nurse, not only draws our persons, but our esteem, from the place of our nativity, and fixes it upon her- self: I might add, / was hungry, and she Jed me ; thirsty, and she gave me drink ; a stranger, and she took me in. I approached her with re- luctance, because I did not know her ; I shall leave her with reluctance, because I do *. Whether it is perfectly consistent in an au- thor to solicit the indulgence of the Public, though it may stand first in his wishes, admits a doubt; for, if his productions will not bear the light, it may be said, why does he publish ? but, if they will, there is no need to ask a fa- vor ; the world receives one from him. Will not a piece everlastingly be tried by its merit ? Shall we esteem it the higher, because it was written at the age of thirteen ? because it was the effort of a week ? delivered extempore ? hatched while the author stood upon one leg ? or cobbled, while he cobbled a shoe ? or will it be a recommendation, that it issues forth in gilt binding ? The judicious world will not be de- ceived by the tinselled purse, but will examine whether the contents are sterling. * After the riots in 1791, my father drew his pen over this paragraph. VI11 \ PREFACE. Will it augment the value of this History, or cover its blunders, to say, that I have never seen Oxford? That the thick fogs of penury prevented the sun of science from beaming upon my mind ? That necessity obliged me to lay down the battledore, before I was master of the letters? And that, instead of handling systems of knowledge, my hands, at the early age of seven, became callous with labour? But, though a whole group of pretences will have no effect upon the impartial eye, yet one reason pleads strongly in my favour no such thing ever appeared as a History of Bir- mingham. It is remarkable, that one of the most singular places in the universe is without an historian : that she never manufactured an history of herself, who has manufactured al- most every thing else ; that so many ages should elapse, and not one among her nume- rous sons of industry, snatch the manners of the day from oblivion, group them in design, with the touches of his pen, and exhibit the picture to posterity. If such a production had ever seen the light, mine most certainly would never have been written ; a temporary bridge, therefore, may satisfy the impatient traveller, till a more skilful architect shall accommodate him with a complete production of elegance, of use. and of duration. Although works of ge- nius ouffht to come out of the mint doublv PREFACE. IX refined, yet History admits a much greater lati- tude to the author. The best upon the sub- ject, though defective, may meet with regard. It has long been a complaint, that Local His- tory is much wanted. This will appear obvious, if we examine the places we know, with the his- tories that treat of them. Many an author has become a cripple, by historically travelling through all England, who might have made a tolerable figure had he staid at home. The subject is too copious for one performance, or even the life of one man. The design of His- tory is knowledge ; but, if simply to tell a tale be all the duty of an Historian, he has no irk- some task before him ; for there is nothing more easy than to relate a fact; but perhaps nothing more difficult than to relate it well. Having, many years ago, entertained an idea of this undertaking, I made some trifling pre- parations ; but, in 177^> a circumstance of a private nature occurring, which engaged my at- tention for several years, I relinquished the de- sign, destroyed the materials, and meant to give up the thought for ever. But the inten- tion revived in 1780, and the work followed. I may be accused of quitting the regular trammels of History, and sporting in the fields of remark : but although our habitation justly stands first in our esteem, in return for rest, content, and protection ; does it follow that we X PREFACE. should never stray from it? If I happen to veer a moment from the polar point of Birmingham, I shall certainly vibrate again to the centre. Every author has a manner peculiar to himself, nor can he well forsake it. I should be ex- ceedingly hurt to omit a necessary part of intel- ligence, but more so to offend a reader. If Grandeur should censure me for some- times recording the men of mean life, let me ask, which is preferable, he who thunders at the anvil, or in the senate? The man who ear- nestly wishes the significant letters Esq. spliced to the end of his name, will despise the ques- tion ; but the philosopher will answer, " they are equal." Lucrative views have no part in this produc- tion : I cannot solicit a kind people to grant what they have already granted ; but if another finds that pleasure in reading, which I have done in writing, I am paid. As no History is extant, to inform me of this famous nursery of the arts, perfection in mine must not be expected. Though I have en- deavoured to pursue the road to truth ; yet, having no light to guide, or hand to direct me, it is no wonder if I mistake it : but we do not condemn, so much as pity, the man for losing his way, who first travels an unbeaten road. Birmingham, for want of the recording hand, may be said to live but one generation ; the PREFACE. XI transactions of the last age die in this; memory is the sole historian, which being defective, I embalm the present generation, for the inspec- tion of the future. It is unnecessary to attempt a general cha- racter ; for if the attentive reader is himself of Birmingham, he is equally apprized of that cha- racter ; and, if a stranger, he will find a variety of touches scattered through the piece, which, taken in a collective view, form a picture of that generous people, who merit his esteem, and possess mine. XII CONTENTS. Page NAME 1 Situation 3 Soil 7 Water 8 Baths 9 Chalybeate Spring 11 Air 12 Longevity 13 Ancient State of Birmingham 18 Battle of Camp Hill 46 Modern State of Birmingham 57 Streets and their names 78 Trade 86 Button 105 Buckle 107 Guns 109 Leather Ill Steel 112 Brass Works 114 Nails 117 Bellows 119 Thread 120 Printing 122 Brass Foundry 129 Brewery ib. Hackney Coach 132 Bank 133 CONTENTS. Xlll Page Wealth 134 Government 142 Constables 150 List of Officers 152 Court of Requests 159 Lamp and Street Act 161 Gas Lights 167 Commercial Committee 169 Hay Market ib. Public Library ib. Religion and Politics 172 Places of Worship 178 St. John's Chapel ib. St. Bartholomew's 180 St. Mary's 182 St. Paul's 183 Old Meeting House 184 New Meeting House 185 Carr's Lane Meeting House 186 Baptist Meeting House 187 Quaker's Meeting House 189 Methodist Meeting House 190 Oxford Street Chapel 194 Romish Chapel 195 Jewish Synagogue 198 St. James'3 Chapel, Ashsted 200 Christ Church 201 Livery Street Meeting House 202 Ebenezer Chapel 203 Theatres ib. Amusements 208 Hotel 212 Wakes 214 Clubs 217 XIV CONTENTS. Page Ikenield Street 222 Lords of the Manor 240 Ulwin, 1050 242 Richard, 1066 ib. William, 1130 '. 247 Peter, 1154 ib. William, 1216 249 William, 1246 ib. William, 1265 250 William, 1306 251 William, 1324 252 Fouk, 1340 253 John, 1376 254 William, 1430 255 William, 1479 256 Edward, 1500 ib. Duke of Northumberland, 1537 257 Marrow, 1555 266 Archer, 1746 ib. Lord Archer, 1778 267 Manor House (Moat) ib. Pudding Brook 272 The Priory ib. Clodshale's Chantry 281 John a Dean's Hole 284 Lench's Trust 285 Fentham's Trust 288 Crowley's Trust 289 Scott's Trust 290 Free School 291 Charity School 297 Dissenting Charity School 302 Workhouse 303 Workhouse Bill 316 Old Cross 323 CONTENTS. XV Page Welch Cross 325 Cattle Market 329 St. Martin's 330 St. Philip's 349 Births and Burials 361 General Hospital 363 Humane Society 369 Dispensary 370 Deaf and Dumb Institution ' 372 Bodily Deformity Institution 373 Fire Office 374 Deritend Bridge ib. The Crescent 376 Barracks ib. Prison 378 Petition for a Corporation 383 Military Association 387 Occurrences, (Earthquakes, &c.) 389 Pitmore and Hammond 393 Riots 395 The Riots in 1791 399 The Conjurors 402 Public Roads 405 Canal 410 Bilston Canal Act 414 Worcester Canal 418 Gentlemen's Seats ib. The Moats 421 Black Greves , ib. Ulverley or Culverley 422 Hogg's Moat 423 Yardley 426 Kent's Moat ib. Sheldon 427 King's Hurst 42S Colcshill 4ol XVI CONTENTS. Page Duddest on 433 Saltley 437 Ward End 438 Castle Bromwich 440 ParkHall 443 Brevvood 444 Erdington 445 Pipe 447 Aston 449 Witton 45? Blakeley 454 Weoley 456 Sutton Coldfield 462 Dane's Camp 466 The Camp 467 Mortimer's Bank 469 T HE HISTORY BIRMINGHAM NAME. 1 HE word Birmingham is too remote for certain explanation. During the last four centuries it has been variously written Brum- wycheham, Bermyngeham, Bromwycham, Bur- myngham, Bermyngham, Byrmyngham, and Birmingham; nay, even so late as the seven- teenth century it was written Bromicham. My worthy friend William Hamper, esq. has enu- merated, from different records and authors, 1 1 8 different ways of spelling the word Birming- ham. Dugdale supposes the name to have been given by the planter, or owner, in the time of the Saxons; but, I suppose it much older than am Saxon date : besides, it is uot so common B l J HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. for a man to give a name to, as to take one from, a place. A man seldom gives his name except lie is the founder, as Petersburg from Peter the Great. Towns, as well as every thing in nature, have exceedingly minute beginnings, and gene- rally take a name from situation, or local cir- cumstances. Would the lord of a manor think it an honour to give his name to two or three miserable huts? But, if in a succession of ages, these huts swell into opulence, they con- fer upon the lord an honour, a residence, and a name. The terminations of stead, ham, and hurst, are evidently Saxon, and mean the same thing, a home. The word, in later ages reduced to a cer- tainty, has undergone various mutations ; but the original seems to have been Bromwych ; Brom perhaps from broom a shrub, for the growth of which the soil is extremely favour- able ; Wych, a dwelling, or a descent ; this exactly corresponds with the declivity from the High-street to Digbeth. Two other places in the neighbourhood bear the same name, Castle- Bromwich and West-Bromwich, which serves to strengthen the opinion. This infant colony, for many centuries after the first buddings of existence, perhaps, had no other appellation than that of Bromwych. Its centre, for many reasons that might be urged. NAME. SITUATION. J was the Old Cross, and its increase, in those early ages, must have been very small. A series of prosperity attending it, its lord might assume its name, reside in it, and the particle ham would naturally follow. This very probably happened under the Saxon Heptar- chy, and the name was no other than Brom- wifcham. SITUATION. It lies near the centre of the kingdom, in the north-west extremity of the county of Warwick, in a kind of peninsula, the northern part of which is bounded by Handsworth, in the county of Stafford, and the southern by King's-Norton, in that of Worcester. It is in the diocese of Lichfield and Coventry, in the deanery of Ar- den, and in the hundred of Hemlingford. Let us perambulate the parish from the bot- tom of Digbeth, thirty yards north of the bridge. We will proceed south-west up the bed of the old river, with Deritend, in the parish of Aston, on our left. Before we come to the flood-gates, 'near Vaughton's Hole, we pass by the Longmores, a small part of King's-Norton. Crossing the river Ilea, we enter the vestiges oi" a small rivulet, yet visible, though the stream has been turned, perhaps, a thousand years, to i; '2 4 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. supply the moat. At the top of the first meadow from the river Ilea, we meet the little stream above-mentioned, in the pursuit of which, we cross the Bromsgrove road a little east of the first mile stone. Leaving Banner's marlpit to the left, we proceed up a narrow lane, crossing the old Bromsgrove road, and up to the turn- pike at the Five Ways, in the road to Hales Owen. Leaving this road also to the left, we proceed down the lane towards Lady-wood, cross the Icknield-street, a stone's cast east of the observatory, to the north extremity of Rot- ten Park, which forms an acute angle, near the Bear at Smethwick. From the river Rea to this point, is about three miles, rather west, and nearly in a straight line, with Edgbaston on the left. We now bear north-east, about a mile, with Smethwick on the left, till we meet Shir- land brook in the Dudley road ; thence to Pig- mill. We now leave Handsworth on the left, following the stream through Hockley great pool ; cross the Wolverhampton road, and the Icknield-street at the same time, down to Aston furnace, with that parish on the left. At the bottom of Walmer-lane we leave the water, move over the fields, nearly in a line to the post by the old Peacock upon Gosty-green. We now cross the Lichfield road, go down Duke- street, then cross the Coleshill road at the A. B. house. From thence we go along the SITUATION. 5 meadows to Cooper's mill; up the river to the foot of Deritend bridge, and then turn sharp to the right, keeping the course of a drain in the form of a sickle, through John a Dean's hole into Digbeth, from whence we set out. This little journey, nearly of an oval form, is about seven miles. The longest diameter from Shirland brook to Deritend bridge, is about three ; and the widest, from the bottom of Wal- mer-lane to the rivulet, near the mile stone upon the Bromsgrove road, more than two. The superficial contents of the parish are two thousand eight hundred and sixty-four acres. Birmingham is by much the smallest parish in the neighbourhood ; those of Aston and Sutton are each about five times as large, Yardley four, and King's-Norton eight. When Alfred, that great master of legislation, pa- rished out his kingdom, or rather put the finish- ing hand to that important work, where he met with a town, he allotted a smaller quantity of land, because the inhabitants chiefly depended upon commerce ; but where there was only a village, lie allotted a larger, because they de- pended on agriculture. This observation goes far in proving the antiquity of the place, for it is nine hundred years since this division was effected. The buildings occupy the south-east part of the parish, which, with their appen- dages, are about eight hundred acres. This () HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. part being insufficient for the extraordinary increase of the inhabitants, Birmingham has of late extended her buildings along the Broms- grove road, near the boundaries of Edgbaston ; and on the other side, planted some of her streets in the parish of Aston. Could the saga- cious Alfred have seen into futurity, he would have augmented her borders. As no part of the town lies flat, the showers promote both cleanliness and health, by re- moving obstructions. Except from Hales Owen, on the north-west, the approach on every side is by ascent, which gives a free ac- cess of air, even to the most secret recesses of habitation. Thus eminently situated, the sun can exercise his full powers of exhalation. The foundation upon which this mistress of the arts is erected, is one solid mass of dry red- dish sand. The vapours that rise from the earth are the great promoters of disease ; but here, instead of the moisture ascending, to the prejudice of the inhabitant, the contrary is evi- dent; for the water descends through the pores of the sand, so that even our very cellars are habitable. Thus peculiarly favoured, this spot enjoys four of the greatest benefits that can at- tend human existence water, air, the sun, and a situation free from damps. All the past writers upon Birmingham have viewed her as low and watery, and with reason; SOIL. 7 because Digbeth, then the chief street, bears that description. But all the future writers will view her on an eminence, and with as much reason ; because, for one low street, we have now fifty elevated. Birmingham, like the em- pire to which she belongs, has been, for many centuries, travelling up hill; and like that, rising into consequence. SOIL. The soil is rather light, sandy, and weak ; and though metals of various sorts are found in great plenty above the surface, we know of nothing below, except sand and gravel, stone and water. All the riches of the place, like those of an empiric in laced clothes, appear on the outside. The northern part of the parish, consisting of seven hundred and eighty-seven acres, to the disgrace of the age, was a shameful waste till the year 1800; when it was inclosed. A small part of the land near the town, is parcelled out into little gardens, at ten or twenty shillings each, amounting to about sixteen pounds per acre. These are not intended so much for pro- fit, as for health and amusement. Other parts are let in detached pieces, for private use. In 1?82 these were about four pounds per a re ; 8 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. in IS 13, about six or seven. This small parish cannot boast of more than six or eight farms, and these of the smaller size; they were let, in 1782, at about two pounds per acre ; and in 1813 at double that sum. Manure from the sty was, at the former of these periods, about sixteen shillings a waggon load ; that from the stable twelve ; and that from the fire and street five. In 1813 these were also double. WATER. There is no natural river that runs through the parish, but there are three that mark its boundaries, for about half its circumference, described above; none of these supply family use. After penetrating into a body of sand, in- terspersed with small strata of soft rock, and sometimes of gravel ; at the depth of about twenty yards, we come to plenty of water, rather hard. There are, in the lower parts of the town, two excellent springs of soft water, suit- able for most purposes ; one at the top of Dig- beth, the other Lady Well : or rather, one spring, or bed of water, with many out-lets, continuing its course along the bottom of the hill, parallel with Small-brook-street, Edgbas- ton-street, St. Martin's-lane, and Park-street, sufficiently copious to supply the whole city WATER. BATHS. 9 of London. Water is of the first consequence ; it often influences disease, always the habit of body : that of Birmingham is, in general, pro- ductive of salutary effects. BATHS. At Lady Well, so called from the Virgin Mary, are the most complete baths in the whole island. They are seven in number ; erected at the expence of 2000/. Accommodation is ever ready for hot or cold bathing ; for immersion or amusement, with conveniency for sweating. The bath appropriated to swimming, is eighteen yards by thirty-six, situated in the centre of a garden, in which there are twenty-four private undressing houses ; the whole surrounded by a wall ten feet high. Pleasure and health are the guardians of the place. The gloomy horrors of a bath sometimes deter us from its use, parti- cularly if aided by complaint ; but the appear- ance of these is rather inviting, We read of painted sepulchres, whose outsides are richly ornamented, but within are full of corruption ind death. The reverse is before us. No ele- gance appears without, but within are the springs of life ! I do not know any author who has reckoned man among the amphibious race of animals ; |0 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. neither do I know any animal that better de- serves it. Man is lord of the little ball on which he treads, one half of which, at least, is water. If we do not allow him to be amphi- bious, we deprive him of half his sovereignty. He justly bears that name, who can live in the water. Many of the disorders incident to the human frame are prevented, and others cured, both by fresh and salt bathing ; so that we may properly remark, " He lives in the water, who can find life, nay, even health in that friendly element." The greatest treasure on earth is health ; but a treasure, of all others, the least valued by the owner. Other property is best rated when in possession, but this can only be rated when lost. We sometimes observe a man, who, hav- ing lost this inestimable jewel, seeks it with an ardour equal to its worth ; but when every re- search by land is eluded, he fortunately finds it in the water. Like the fish, he pines away upon shore, but like that, recovers again in the deep. The cure of disease among the Romans, by bathing, is supported by many authorities ; among others, by the number of baths fre- quently discovered, in which pleasure, in that warm climate, bore a part. But this practice seemed to decline with Roman freedom, and never after held the eminence it deserved. Can BATHS. CHALYBEATE SPRING. 11 we suppose the physician stept between the disease and the bath, to hinder their junction ; or, that he lawfully holds, by prescription, the tenure of sickness, in fee? The knowledge of this singular art of heal- ing is at present only in infancy. How far it may prevent, or conquer disease; to what mea- sure it may be applied, in particular cases, and the degrees of use, in different constitutions, are inquiries that will be better understood by a future generation. CHALYBEATE SPRING. One mile from Birmingham, in the manor of Duddeston, and joining the turnpike road to Coleshill, is a chalybeate spring, whose water has but one defect it costs nothing. This ex- cellent spring lies forlorn, neglected, and ex- posed to every injury ; it seems daily to solicit protection, and offer its friendly aid in restoring health ; but being daily rejected, it seems to mourn the refusal, dissolve itself in tears, and, not being allowed, though designed bv nature, to increase the health of man, moves weeping along to increase a river. All the attention paid by the traveller is, to gaze for a moment ; but in the height of contemplation, instead of taking out its water, deliver in his own. Had this water passed through a bed of malt, instead of V2 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. mineral, it would have drawn more attendants than the shrine of Thomas Becket, and those attendants would have stoutly disputed for every rising drop. Poverty assumes a variety of shapes : it is sometimes seen in the human being ; sometimes in the horse at the coal-cart; again, in the pul- pit; in the furniture of a house, or a head. But in whatever shape it appears, it is always de- spised. The low state, and the low credit of this Well, are equal. Merit is often depressed. Here the afflicted might find a prescription with- out expence, efficacious as if signed by the whole College of Physicians. The stick and the crutch would be nailed round its margin, as trophies of victory over disease. The use of the bottle adds to the spirits, but shortens life ; this fountain is the renewer of health, the protracter of age. I remark that the water will lose some of its efficacy, if carried off in any vessel but the stomach. AIR. As we have passed through the water, let us now investigate her sister fluid, the air. They are both necessary to life, and the purity of both to the prolongation of it ; this small differ- ence lies between them a man may live a day AIR. LONGEVITY. 13 without water, but not an hour without air. If a man wants better water, it may be removed from a distant place for his benefit ; but if he wants better air, he must remove himself. The na- tural air of Birmingham, perhaps, cannot be excelled in this climate ; the moderate eleva- tion and dry soil evince this truth ; but it re- ceives an alloy from the congregated bodies of eighty or ninety thousand people. Also from the smoke of an extraordinary number of fires used in business ; and perhaps more from the various effluvia arising from particular trades. It is not uncommon to see a man with green hair or a yellow wig, from his constant employment in brass ; if he reads, the green vestiges of his occupation remain on every leaf, never to be expunged. The inside of his body, no doubt, receives the same tincture, but is kept clean by being often washed with ale. Some of the fair sex, likewise, are subject to the same in- convenience, but find relief in the same re- medy. LONGF.VITY. Man is a time-piece. He measures out a certain space, then stops tor ever. We see him move upon the earth, hear him click, and perceive in his countenance the marks of in- 14 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. telligence. His external appearance will in- form us whether he is old-fashioned, in which case he is less valuable upon every gambling calculation. If we cast a glance upon his face, we shall learn whether all be right within, and what portion of time has elapsed. This curious machine is filled with a complication of movements, very unfit to be regulated by the rough hand of ignorance, which sometimes leaves a mark not to be obliterated even by the hand of an artist. If the works are directed by violence, destruction is not far off. If we load them with the oil of luxury, it will give an addi- tional vigour, but, in the end, clog and impede the motion. But if the machine is under the influence of prudence, it will be guided by an even and a delicate hand, and perhaps the piece may move on till it is fairly worn out bv a long course of fourscore years. There is a set of people who expect to find that health in medicine, which possibly might be found in regimen, in air, exercise, or se- renity of mind. There is another class among us, and that rather numerous, whose employment is labo- rious, and whose conduct is irregular. Their time is divided between hard working and hard drinking, and both by a fire. It is no uncom- mon thing to see one of these, at forty, wear the aspect of sixty, and finish a life of violence LONGEVITY. 15 at fifty, which the hand of prudence would have directed to eighty. The strength of a kingdom consists in the multitude of its inha- bitants ; success in trade depends upon the ma- nufacturer j the support and direction of a fa- mily upon the head of it : when this useful part of mankind, therefore, is cut off in the ac- tive season of life, the community sustains a loss, whether we take the matter in a national, a commercial, or a private view. We have a third class, who shun the rock upon which these last fall, but wreck upon ano- ther ; they run upon Scylla, though they have missed Charybdis ; they escape the liquid de- struction, but split upon the solid. These are proficients in good eating ; adepts in culling of delicacies, and the modes of dressing them. Masters of the whole art of cookery, each car- ries a kitchen in his head. Thus an excellent constitution may be stabbed by the spit. Na- ture never designed us to live well, and con- tinue well ; the stomach is too weak a vessel to be richly and deeply laden. Perhaps more in- jury is done by eating than by drinking ; one is a secret, the other an open enemy : the secret is always supposed the most dangerous. Drink- ing attacks by assault, but eating by sap : luxury is seldom visited by old age. The best antidote yet discovered against this kind of slow poison, is exercise; but the advantages of elevation, l(j HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. air, and water, on one hand, and disadvan- tages of crowd, smoke, and effluvia on the other, are trifles compared to intemperance. We have a fourth class, and with these I shall return, and shut up the clock. If this valuable machine comes finished from the hand of na- ture ; if the rough blasts of fortune only attack the outward case, without affecting the internal works, and if reason conducts the piece, it may move on with a calm, steady, and uninter- rupted pace to a great extent of years, till time only annihilates the motion. I personally knew among us a Mrs. Dalla- way, aged near 90; George Davis, 85; John Baddely, Esq. and his two brothers, all between SO and 90; Mrs. Allen, 88; Mrs. Silk, 84; John Burbury, 84 ; Thomas Rutter, 88 ; Eli- zabeth Bentley, 88 ; John Harrison and his wife, one 86, the other 88; Mrs. Floyd, 87; Elizabeth Simms, 88 ; Sarah Aston, 98 ; Abra- ham Spooner, Esq. 89 ;- Joseph Scott, Esq. 94 ; all, January 9, 1?80, I believe, enjoyed health and capacity. This is not designed as a com- plete list of the aged, but of such only as imme- diately occur to memory. I also knew a John England, who died at the age of 89; Hugh Vincent, 94; John Pitt, 100; George Bridgens, 103 ; Mrs. More, 104. An old fellow assured me he had kept the market 77 years: he kept it for several years after, to my knowledge. At LONGEVITY. 17 90 he was attacked by an acute disorder, but, fortunately for himself, being too poor to pur- chase medical assistance, he was left to the care of nature, who opened that door to health which the physician would have locked for ever. At 106 I heard him swear with all the fervency of a recruit: at 107 he died. Allow me, February 13, 1814, to conclude with my- self, in my ninety-first year. It is easy to give instances of'people who have breathed the smoke of Birmingham threescore years, and yet have scarcely quitted the precincts of youth. Such are the happy effects of constitution, temper, and conduct ! 18 ANCIENT STATE OF BIRMINGHAM. W E have now to pass through the very re- mote ages of time. The way is long, dark, and slippery. The credit of an historian is built upon truth ; he cannot assert, without giving his facts ; he cannot surmise, without giving his reasons ; he must relate things as they are, not as he would have them. The fabrick founded in error will moulder of itself, but that founded in reality will stand the age and the critic. Except half a dozen pages in Dugdale, I know of no author who has professedly treated of Birmingham. None of the histories which I have seen bestow upon it more than a few lines, in which we are sure to be treated with the noise of hammers and anvils ; as if the his- torian thought us a race of dealers in thunder, lightning, and wind ; or infernals, puffing in blast and smoke. Suffer me to transcribe a passage from Ice- land, one of our most celebrated writers, em- ANCIENT STATE. 19 ployed by Henry the VHIth, to form an Itine- rary of Britain, whose works have stood the test of 250 years. We shall observe how little he must have been qualified to write the history of a place, with only riding through it. " I came through a pretty street as ever I entered, into Birmingham town. This street, as I remember, is called Dirtey (Deritend). In it dwells smithes and cutlers, and there is a brook that divides this street from Birmingham, an hamlet, or member, belonging to the parish therebye. There is at the end of Dirtey a propper chappel, and mansion-house of tymber (the moat) hard on the ripe (bank) as the brook runneth down ; and as I went through the ford, by the bridge, the water ranne down on the right hand, and a few miles below goeth into Tame. This brook, above Dirtey, breaketh in two arms, that a little beneath the bridge close again. This brook riseth, as some say, four or five miles above Birmingham, towards Black- hills. " The beauty of Birmingham, a good mar- ket-town in the extreme parts of Warwickshire, is one street going up alonge, almost from the left ripe of the brook, up a meane hill, by the length of a quarter of a mile. I saw but one parish-church in the town. " There be many smithes in the town that me to make knives and all manner of cutting c '2 :2Q HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. tools, and many loriners that makes bittes, and a great many naylers ; so that a great part of the town is maintained by smithes, who have their iron and sea-coal out of Staffordshire." Here we find some intelligence, and more mistake, clothed in the dress of antique dic- tion, which plainly evinces the necessity of mo- dern history. It is matter of surprise, that none of those reli- gious drones, the monks, who hived in the priory for fifteen or twenty generations, ever thought of indulging posterity with an history of Birming- ham. They could not want opportunity, for they lived a life of indolence ; nor materials, for they were nearer the infancy of time, and were possessed of historical facts now totally lost. Besides, nearly all the little learning in the kingdom was possessed by this class of peo- ple ; and the place, in their day, must have en- joyed an eminent degree of prosperity. Though the town has a modern appearance, there is reason to believe it of great antiquity ; my Birmingham reader, therefore, must suffer me to carry him back into the remote ages of the ancient Britons, to visit his sable ancestors. We have no histories of those times but what are left us by the Romans, and these we ought to read witli caution, because they were parties in the dispute. Of two antagonists if each write his own history, the discerning reader will ANCIENT STATE. 21 draw the line of justice between them ; but where there is only one, partiality is expected. The Romans were obliged to make the Britons warlike, or there would have been no merit in conquering them : they must also sound forth their ignorance, or there would have been none in improving them. If the Britons were that wretched people they are represented by the Romans, they could not be worth conquering : no man subdues a people to improve them, but to profit by them. Though the Romans were in their meridian of splendour, they pursued Britain a whole century before they reduced it; which indicates that they considered it a valu- able prize. Though the Britons were not mas- ters of science, like the Romans ; though the tine arts did not flourish as in Rome, because never planted, yet by many testimonies it is evident, they were masters of plain life ; that many of the simple arts were practised in that day, as well as in this ; that assemblages of people composed cities, the same as now, but in an inferior degree ; and that the country was populous, is plain from the immense army Boadicea brought into the field, except the Romans increased that army that their merit might be greater in defeating it. Nay, I be- lieve we may with propriety carry them beyond plain life, and charge them with a degree of elegance : the Romans themselves allow the &> HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. Britons were complete masters of the chariot ; that when the scythe was fixed at each end of the axle-tree, they drove with great dexterity into the midst of the enemy, broke their ranks, and mowed them down. This afterwards be- came useful in peace, was a badge of high life, and continues so with their descendants to this day. We know the instruments of war used by the Britons were a sword, spear, shield and scythe. If they were not the manufacturers, how came they by these instruments ? We cannot allow either they or the chariots were imported, be- cause that will give them a much greater con- sequence. They must have been well ac- quainted with the tools used in husbandry, for they were masters of the field in a double sense. Bad also as their houses were, a chest of car- penter's tools would be necessary to complete them. We cannot doubt from these evidences, and others which might be adduced, that the Britons understood the manufactory of iron. Perhaps history cannot produce an instance of any place in an improving country, like Eng- gland, where the coarse manufactory of iron has been carried on, that ever that laborious art went to decay, except the materials failed ; and as we know of no place where such mate- rials have failed, there is the utmost reason to believe our fore-fathers, the Britons, were supplied with those necessary implements by ANCIENT STATE. 23 the black artists of the Birmingham forge. Iron-stone and coal are the materials for this production, both which are found in the neigh- bourhood in great plenty. The two following circumstances strongly evince this ancient Bri- tish manufactory : Upon the borders of the parish stands Aston furnace, appropriated for melting ironstone, and reducing it into pigs : this has the appearance of great antiquity. From the melted ore, in this subterranean region of infernal aspect, is produced a calx, or cinder, of which there is an enormous mountain. From an attentive survey, the observer would suppose so prodi- gious a heap could not accumulate in one hun- dred generations ; however, it shews no per- ceptible addition in the age of man. There is also a common of vast extent, called Wednesbury old field, in which are the ves- tiges of many hundreds of coal-pits, long in disuse, which the curious antiquary would deem as long in sinking, as the mountain of cinders in rising. The minute sprig of Birmingham, no doubt first took root in this black soil, and in a suc- cession of ages, has grown to its present opu- lence. At what time this prosperous plant was set, is very uncertain, perhaps as long before the days of Caesar as it is since. Thus the mines of Wednesbury empty their riches into 24 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. the lap of Birmingham, and thus she draws nur- ture from the bowels of the earth. The chief, if not the only manufactory of Birmingham, from its first existence to the res- toration of Charles the Second, was in iron : of this was produced instruments of war and hus- bandry, furniture for the kitchen, and tools for the whole system of carpentry. The places where our athletic ancestors form- ed these curious productions of art, were the shops fronting the street : some small remains of this very antient custom are yet visible, chiefly in Digbeth, where about a dozen shops still exhibit the original music of anvil and hammer. As there is the highest probability that Bir- mingham produced her manufactures long be- fore the landing of Caesar, it would give plea- sure to the curious inquirer, could he be in- formed of her size in those very early ages; but this information is for ever hid from the histo- rian, and the reader. Perhaps there never was a period in which she saw a decline ; but that her progress has been certain, though slow, during the long space of two or three thousand years before Charles the Second. The very roads that proceed from Birming- ham, are additional indications of her great an- tiquity and commercial influence. Where any of these roads led up an eminence, they were ANCIENT STATE. 25 worn by the long practice of ages into deep hol- loways, some of them twelve or fourteen yards below the surface of the banks, with which they were once even; and so narrow as to admit only one passenger. Though modern industry, assisted by various turnpike acts, has widened the upper part, and rilled up the lower, yet they w r ere all visible in the days of our fathers, and are traceable even in ours. Some of these, no doubt, were formed by the spade, to soften the fatigue of climbing the hill, but many were owing to the pure ef- forts of time, the horse and the showers. As inland trade was small, prior to the fifteenth century, the use of the waggon, that great de- stroyer of the road, was but little known. The horse was the chief conveyor of burdens among the Britons, and for centuries after : if we con- sider the great length of time it would take for the rains to form these deep ravines, we must place the origin of Birmingham at a very early date. One of these subterranean passages, in part filled up, will convey its name to posterity in that of a street, called Holloway-head, till lately, the way to Bromsgrove and to Bewdley. Dale End, once a deep road, has the same deriva- tion. Another at Summer-hill, in the Dudlev road, was altered in 1753. A remarkable one is also between the Salutation and the turn- 'JO HlaTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. pike, in the Wolverhampton road. A fifth at the top of Walmer-lane, changed into its present form in lj64>. Another between Gostagreen and Aston- brook, reduced in 175*2. All the way from Dale End to Duddeston, of which Coleshill-street now makes a part, and Ashsted another, was sunk five or six feet, though nearly upon a fiat, till filled up in 1756 by act of par- liament ; but the most singular is that between Deritend and Camp-hill, in the way to Strat- ford, which was fifty-eight feet deep, and is, even now, many yards below the banks ; yet the seniors of the last age took a pleasure in telling us, they could remember when it would have buried a waggon load of hay beneath its present surface. Thus the traveller of old, who came to purchase the produce of Birming- ham, or to sell his own, seemed to approach her by sap. British traces arc, no doubt, discoverable in the old Dudley road, down Easy-hill, under the canal ; at the eight mile-stone, and at Smeth- wick : also in many of the private roads near Birmingham, which were never thought to merit a repair, particularly at Good Knaves- end, towards Harborne ; the Greenlane, lead- ing to the Garrison ; and that beyond Long- bridge, in the road to Yardley ; all of them deep holloways, which carry evident tokens of antiquity. Let the curious calculator deter ANCIENT STATE. 27 mine what an amazing length of time would elapse in wearing the deep roads along Saltley- field, Shaw-hill, AJlum rock, and the remainder of the way to Stitchford, only a pitiful hamlet of a dozen houses. The ancient centre of Birmingham seems to have been the Old Cross, from the number of streets pointing towards it. Wherever the nar- now end of a street enters a great thoroughfare, 't indicates antiquity. This is the case with Philip-street, Bell-street, and Park-street ; and was the case with Spicial-street, and Moor- street, which have been widened within these few years ; they not only incline to the centre above mentioned, but their narrow ends termi- nate in the grand passage. These were formed with the main street at first, and were not in- tended for streets themselves. As the town in- creased, other blunders of the same kind were committed; witness the gateway late at the East end of New-street, the two ends of Wor- cester-street, opened in 1808, Smalibrook-street, Cannon-street, New Meeting-street, and Bull- street ; it is easy to see which end of a street was formed hist ; perhaps the South end of Moor-street is two thousand years older than the North ; the same errors are committing in our day, as in Hill and Yale-streets, the two Hinkleys, and Catherine-street. One genera- tion, for want of foresight, forms a narrow 28 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. entrance, and another widens it by act of par- liament. Every word in the English language carries an idea : when a word strikes the ear, the mind immediately forms a picture, which represents it as faithfully as the looking-glass does the face. Thus, when the word Birmingham oc- curs, a superb picture instantly expands in the mind, which is best explained by the other words grand, populous, extensive, active, com- mercial, and humane. This painting is an ex- act counter-part of the word at this day; but it does not correspond with its appearance in the days of the ancient Britons we must, therefore, for a moment, detach the idea from the word. Let us suppose, then, this centre surrounded with less than one hundred straggling huts, without order, which we will dignify with the name of houses; built of timber, the interstices wattled with sticks, and plastered with mud ; covered with thatch, boards, or sods ; none of them higher than the ground story : the meaner sort having only one room, which served for three uses, shop, kitchen, and lodging-room ; the door for two, admitting the people and the light : the better sort, two rooms, and some three, for work, for the kitchen, and for rest ; all three in a line, and sometimes fronting the street. If the curious reader chuses to see a picture of Birmingham, in the time of the Britons, he ANCIENT STATE. 29 will find one in the turnpike road, between Hales-Owen and Stourbridge, called the Lie- Waste, alias Mud City. The houses standing in every direction, are composed of one large and ill-formed brick, scoped into tenements, burnt by the sun, and often destroyed by the frost : the males are naked ; the females accomplished breeders. The children at the age of three months, take a singular hue from the sun and soil, which continues for life. The rags which cover them leave no room for the observer to guess at the sex. Only one person upon the premises presumes to carry a prominence in front, and he a landlord. We might as well look for the moon in a coal-pit, as for stays or white linen in the City of Mud. The principal tool in business is the hammer, and the beast of burden the ass. The extent of our little colony of artists, per- haps reached nearly as high as the east end of New-street, occupied the upper part of Spiceal- street, and penetrated down the hill to the top of Digbeth, chiefly on the east. Success, which ever waits on industry, pro- duced a gradual, but very slow increase ; per- haps a thousand years elapsed without adding half that number of houses. Thus our favourite plantation having taken such firm root, that she was able to stand the wintry blasts of fortune, we shall digress for a moment, while she wields her sparkling heat, SO HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. according to the fashion of the day, in execut- ing the orders of the sturdy Briton; then of the polite and heroic Roman ; afterwards of our mild ancestors, the Saxons (whether she raised her hammer for the plundering Dane is uncertain, his reign being short) ; and, lastly, for the resolute and surly Norman. It does not appear that Birmingham, from its first formation, to the present day, was ever the habitation of a gentleman, the lords of the ma- nor excepted. But if there are no originals among us, we can produce many striking like- nesses : the smoke of Birmingham has been very propitious to their growth, but not to their maturity. Gentlemen, as well as buttons, have been stamped here ; but, like them, when finished, they are moved off. They both originate from a very uncouth state, without form or come- liness ; and pass through various stages, uncer- tain of success. Some of them, at length, re- ceive the last polish, and arrive at perfection ; while others, ruined by a flaw, are deemed wasters. I have knowm the man of opulence direct his gilt chariot out of Birmingham, w T ho first approached her an helpless orphan in rags. I have known the chief magistrate of eighty thousand people, fall from his phaeton, and humbly ask bread at a parish vestry. Fre- quently the wheel of capricious fortune de- scribes a circle, in the rotation of which a ANCIENT STATE. 31 family experiences alternately the height of prosperity and the depth of distress ; but more frequently, like a pendulum, it describes only the arc of a circle, and that always at the bottom. Many fine estates have been struck out of the anvil, valuable possessions raised by the tongs, and superb houses, in a two-fold sense, erected by the trowel. The paternal ancestor of the late Sir Charles Holte was a native of this place, and purchaser in the beginning of Edward the Third, of the several manors, which have been the honour and the support of his house to the present time. Walter Clod- shale w r as another native of Birmingham, who, in 1332, purchased the manor of Saltley, now en- joyed by his maternal descendant, Charles Bow- yer Adderley, esq. Charles Colmore, esq. holds a considerable estate in the parish ; his prede- cessor is said to have occupied, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, that house, now X. 1, in the High-street, as a mercer, and general receiver of the taxes. A numerous branch of this ancient family flourishes in Birmingham at this day. The head of it, in the reign of James I. erected New-hall, and himself into a gentleman. On this desirable eminence, about half a mile from the buildings, they resided, till time, fashion, and success, removed them, like their prede- cessors, the sons of fortune, to a greater dis- tance. The place was then possessed by a 32 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. tenant, as a farm : but Birmingham, a speedy traveller, marched over the premises, and cover- ed them with twelve hundred houses, on building leases; the farmer was converted into a stew- ard ; his brown hempen frock, which guarded the outside of his waistcoat, became white Hol- land, edged with ruffles, and took its station within : the pitchfork was metamorphosed into a pen, and his ancient practice of breeding sheep, was changed into that of dressing their skins. Robert Philips, esq. acquired a valu- able property in the seventeenth century, now possessed by his descendant, William Theodore Inge, esq. A gentleman of the name of Fox-. all, assured me, that the head of his family re- sided upon the spot, now N. J 01, in Digbeth, about four hundred years ago, in the capacity of a tanner. Richard Smallbroke, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, in the reign of George II. was a native of Birmingham, as his ancestors were for many ages, with reputation : he was born at N. 19, in the High-street, had great property in the town, now enjoyed by his de- scendants, though they have left the place. The families also of Weaman, Jennens, Whal- ley, &c. have acquired vast property, and quit- ted the meridian of Birmingham ; and some others are at this day ripe for removal. Let me close this bright scene of prosperity, and open another, which can only be viewed with a ANCIENT STATE. 33 melancholy eye. We cannot behold the distresses of man without compassion ; but that distress which follows affluence, comes with double effect. We have among us a family of the name of Middlemore* of great antiquity, deducible from the conquest ; who held the chief possessions, and the chief offices in the county, and who ranked with the first families in the kingdom, but fell with the interest of Charles the First ; and are now at so low an ebb of fortune, that I have frequently, with a gloomy pleasure, re- lieved them at the common charity-board of the town. Such is the totteringpoint of human great- ness. We have another of the name of Brace- bridge, who, for more than six hundred years, figured in the first ranks of life; a third of the name of Mountfort, who shone with meridian splendour, through a long train of ages. As genealogy was ever a favourite amusement, I have often conversed with these solitary remains of tarnished lustre, but find in all of them, the pride of their family buried with its greatness : they pay no more attention to the arms of their ancestors, than to a scrap of paper, with which they would light their pipe. Upon consulting one of the name of Elwall, said to be descended from the Britons, I found him so defective, that he could not stretch his pedigree even so high as his grandfather A u 31 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. fifth family among us, of the name of Arden, stood upon the pinnacle of fame in the days of Alfred the Great, where, perhaps they had stood for ages before : they continued the ele- vation about seven hundred years after ; but having treasonable charges brought against them, in the days of Queen Elizabeth, about two hundred years ago, they were thrown from this exalted eminence, and dashed to pieces in the fall. In various consultations with a mem- ber of this honourable house, I found the great- ness of his family not only lost, but the memory of it also. I assured him, that his family stood higher in the scale of honour, than any private one within my knowledge : that his paternal ancestors, for about seven generations, were successively Earls of Warwick, before the Nor- man Conquest : that, though he could not boast a descent from the famous Guy, he was related to him, and still bore his arms, with a small difference : that, though Turchell, Earl of Warwick, his direct ancestor, lost the Earldom at the conquest, in favour of Roger Newburgh, a favourite of William's ; yet, as the Earl did not appear in arms against the Conqueror, at the battle of Hastings, nor oppose the new interest, he was allowed to keep forty-six of his manors : and that he retired upon his own vast estate, which he held in dependence, and on which the family resided with great opulence, ANCIENT STATE. 35 in one house, for many centuries. He received the information with some degree of amaze- ment, and replied with a serious face.. " Per- haps there may have been something great in my predecessors, for my grandfather kept se- veral cows in Birmingham, and sold milk !" The families of those ancient heroes, of Saxon and Norman race, are, chiefly by the mutations of time, and of the state, either become ex- tinct, or as above, reduced to the lowest verge of fortune. Therefore those few, whose de- scent is traceable, may be carried higher than that of the present nobility ; for I know none of these last, who claim peerage beyond Ed- ward the First, about 1 C 2 ( J5. Hence it follows, that for antiquity, alliance, and blood, the ad- vantage is evidently in favour of the lowest class. Could one of those illustrious shades return to the earth and inspect human actions, he might behold one of his descendants treading at the lathe ; another, tippling with his dark bre- thren of the apron ; a third, humbly soliciting from other families such favours as were for- merly granted by his own ; a fourth, imitating modern grandeur, by contracting debts he ne- ver designs to pay ; and a fifth snuff of departed light, poaching, like a thief in the night, upon the very manors possessed by his ancestors. Whence is it that title, pedigree, and alli- u Q 36 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. ance, in superior life, are esteemed of the highest value ; while in the inferior, which has a prior claim, they are totally neglected? The grand design of every creature upon earth, is to supply the wants of nature. No amusements of body or mind can be adopted, till hunger is served. When the appetite calls, the whole attention of the animal, with all its powers, is bound to answer. Hence arise those dreadful contests in the brute creation, from the lion in the woods, to the dog who seizes the bone. Hence the ship, when her provisions are spent, and she is becalmed, casts a savage eye upon hu- man sacrifices ; and hence, the attention of the lower ranks of men is too far engrossed for mental pursuit. They see, like Esau, the ho- nours of their family devoured with a ravenous appetite. A man with an empty cupboard Mould make but a wretched philosopher. But if fortune should smile upon one of the lower race, raise him a step above his present stand- ing, and give him a prospect of independence, he immediately begins to eye the arms upon carriages, examines old records for his name, and inquires where the Heralds' Office is kept. Thus, when the urgency of nature is set at liberty, the bird can whistle upon the branch, the fish play upon the surface, the goat skip upon the mountain, and even man himself, can bask in the sunshine of science. ANCIENT STATE. 3J We have several families, as the Colmores, the Clarkes, the Mays, the Smallwoods, the Bedfords, through whose veins flow the blood- royal of England, with that of most of the Eu- ropean princes. For these families being de- scended from the Willoughbys, and they from the Marmions, whose daughter married Rich- ard, bastard son of King John, it brings up our laboured pedigree to a sceptre and a crown. From thence, as by a spacious turnpike road, we easilv travel through the Great nam es of an- tiquitv ; as William the Conqueror, Edmund Ironside, the accomplished Alfred, the power- ful Egbert, the beloved Cerdic, till we arrive at the Saxon Deity Woden. I digress no farther. The situation of St. Martin's church is ano- ther reason for fixing the original centre of Bir- mingham at the Old Cross. Christianity made an early and a swift progress in this kingdom ; persecution, as might be expected, followed her footsteps, increased her votaries, and, as was ever the case in all new religions, her prose- lytes were very devout. The religious fervour of the Christians displayed itself in building churches. Most of those in England are of Saxon original, and were erected between the fourth and the tenth century; that of St. Mar- tin is ancient beyond the reach of historical knowledge, and probably rose in the early reigns of the Saxon kings. 38 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. It was the custom of those times, to place the church, if there was but one, out of the precincts of the town ; this is visible at the pre- sent day in those places which have received no increase. Perhaps it will not be an unreasonable suppo- sition to fix the erection of St. Martin's in the eighth century ; and if the inquisitive reader chuse to traverse the town a second time, he may find its boundaries something like the fol- lowing;. We cannot allow its extension north- w T ard beyond the east end of New-street ; or that it included more than the narrow parts of Philip- street, Bell-street, Spiceal-street, Moor-street, and Park-street. The houses at this period were more compact than heretofore ; and Dig- beth and Deritend, lying in the road to Strat- ford, Warwick, and Coventry, all places of an- tiquity, were now formed. Thus the church stood in the environs of the town, unencum- bered with buildings. Possibly this famous nur- sery of arts might, by this time, produce six hun- dred houses. A town must increase before its appendages are formed ; those appendages also must increase before there is a necessity for an additional chapel, and after that increase, the in- habitants may wait long before that necessity is removed, by building one. Deritend is an ap- pendage to Birmingham ; the inhabitants of this hamlet having long laboured under the ANCIENT STATE. 39 inconvenience of being remote from the parish church of Aston, and being too numerous for admisssion into that of Birmingham, procured a grant in 1381 to erect a chapel of their own. If we, therefore, allow three hundred years for the infancy of Deritend, three hundred more for her maturity, and four hundred since the erection of her chapel, which is a very rea- sonable allowance, it will bring us to the time I mentioned. It does not appear that Deritend was at- tended with any considerable augmentation, from the Norman Conquest to the year 1767? when a turnpike road was opened to Alcester, and when Henry Bradford publicly offered a freehold to the man who should first build upon his estate ; since which time, Deritend, only one street, has made a rapid progress : and this dusky offspring of Birmingham is now travel- ling apace along her new formed road. In 1791, the inhabitants of Deritend pro- cured an Act for lighting and cleansing the streets, to be executed by .51 Commissioners. I must again recline upon Dugdale. In 1309, William de Birmingham, Lord of the Manor, took a distress of the inhabitants of Bromsgrove and King's-Norton, for refusing to pay the customary tolls of the market. The inhabitants brought their action, and recovered damages, because it was said, their lands being 40 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. the ancient demesne of the crown, they had a right to sell their produce in any market in the King's dominions. It appeared in the course of the trial, that the ancestors of William de Bir- mingham had a market here before the Nor- man Conquest ! I shall have occasion, in fu- ture, to resume this remarkable expression. I have also met with an old author, who ob- serves, that Birmingham was governed by tw T o Constables in the time of the Saxons ; small places have seldom more than one. These evi- dences prove much in favour of the go- vernment, population, and antiquity of the place. In Domesday-book Birmingham is rated at four hides of land. A hide was as much as a team could conveniently plough in a year ; per- haps about fifty acres : I think there are not now more than two hundred ploughed in the parish. It was also said to contain woods of half a mile in length, and two furlongs in breadth. The mile w r as reduced to its present standard in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. There are not the least traces of those woods ; for at this day it is difficult to find a stick that deserves the name of a tree, in the whole ma- nor. Timber is no part of the manufactory of Birmingham. Let us survey the town a third time, as we may reasonably suppose it stood in the most ANCIENT STATE. 41 remarkable period of English history, that of the conquest. We cannot yet go farther north of the cen- tre than before, that is, along the High-street, till we meet the east end of New-street. We shall penetrate rather farther into Moor-street, none into Park-street, take in Digbeth, Deritend, Edgbaston-street, as being the road to Dudley, Bromsgrove, and the whole West of England ; Spiceal-street, the Shambles, a larger part of Bell-street, and Philip-street. The ancient increase of the town was to- wards the south ; because of the great road, the convenience of water, the church, and the manor-house, all which lay in that quarter; but the modern extension was chiefly towards the north, owing to the scions of her trades being transplanted all over the country as far as Wednesbury, Walsall, and Wolverhampton ; but particularly her vicinity to the coal mines, which were ever considered as the soul of her prosperity. Perhaps by tin's time the number of houses might have been augmented to seven hundred : but whatever were her number, ei- ther in this or any other period, we cannot doubt her being populous in every a'ra of her existence. The following small extract, from the register will shew a gradual increase, even before the Restoration : t'J HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. Year. Christenings. Weddings. Burials. 1556, - - 37, - - 15, - - 27. 1558, - - 48, - - 10, - - 47- 1603, - - 63, - - 14, - - 40. ia>5, - - 76, - - is, - - 47. 1660, - - j6 t from April to Dec. inclusive. In 1251, William de Birmingham, Lord of the Manor, procured an additional charter from Henry the Third, reviving some decayed pri- vileges, and granting others ; among the last was that of the Whitsuntide fair, to begin on the eve of Holy Thursday, and to continue four days. At the alteration of the style, in 1752, it was prudently changed to the Thurs- day in Whitsun week, that less time might be lost to the injury of work and the workman. He also procured another fair, to begin on the eve of St. Michael, and continue for three days, both which fairs are at this day in great repute. In 1813 this last fair began the first Thursday after Michaelmas. By the interest of Audomore de Valance, Earl of Pembroke, a licence was obtained from the crown, in 1319, to charge an additional toll upon every article sold in the market for three years, towards paving the town. Every quarter of corn to pay one farthing, and other things in proportion. But, at the expiration of the term the toll was found inadequate to the expence, ANCIENT STATE. 43 and the work lay dormant for eighteen years, till 1337, when a second licence was obtained, equal to the first, which completed the in- tention. Those streets, thus dignified with a pave- ment, or rather their sides only, to accommo- date the foot passenger, probably were High- street, the Bull-ring, Corn-cheaping, Digbeth, St. Martin's-lane, Moat-lane, Edgbaston-street, Spiceal-strect, and part of Moor-street. It was the practice, in those early days, to leave the centre of a street unpaved, for the easier pas- sage of carriages and horses ; the consequence was, that in flat streets the road became ex- tremely dirty, almost impassable, and in a de- scent, the soil was quickly worn away, and left a causeway on each side. Many instances of this ancient practice are within memory. The streets, no doubt, in which the fairs were held, mark the boundaries of the town in the thir- teenth ccnturv. Though smaller wares were sold upon the spot used for the market, the rougher articles, such as cattle, were exposed to sale in what were then the out-streets. The fair for horses was held in Edgbaston-street, and that for beasts in the High-street, tending towards the Welch Cross. Inconvenient as these streets seem for the purpose, our dark an- cestors of peaceable memory, found no detri- ment, during the infant state of population, in 44 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. keeping them there. But we, their crowded sons, for want of accommodation, wisely removed both ; the horse-fair, in 1?77 to Brick-kiln- lane, then the extreme part of the town ; and that for cattle, in 17(>9, into the open part of Dale End. Whatever veneration we may entertain for ancient custom, there is sometimes a ne- cessity to break it. Were we now to solicit the crown for a fair, those streets would be the last we should fix on. If we survey Birmingham in the twelfth cen- tury, we shall find her crowded with timber, within and without ; her streets dirty and nar- row, but much trodden. The inhabitant be- came an early encroacher upon her narrow streets, and sometimes the lord was the greatest. Her houses were mean and low, but few reach- ing higher than one story, perhaps none more than two ; composed of wood and plaster she was a stranger to brick. Pier public buildings consisted solely of one, the church. If we be- hold her in the fourteenth century, we shall observe her private buildings multiplied more than improved ; her narrow streets, by trespass become narrower ; her public buildings in- creased to four, two in the town, and two at a distance, the Priory, of stone, founded by con- tribution, at the head of which stood her lord ; the Guild, now the Free School, of timber; and Deritend Chapel, of the same materials, ANCIENT STATE. 45 resembling a barn, with something like an awk- ward dove-cote, at the west end, by way of steeple. All these will be noticed in due course. If we take a view of the inhabitants, we shall find them industrious, plain, and honest. In curious operations, known only to a few, the artist was amply paid. Nash, in his History of Worcestershire, gives us a curious list of anec- dotes, from the ledger, of the church-wardens of Hales-Owen. I shall transcribe two, nearly three hundred years old. " Paid for bread and ale, to make my Lord Abbot drink, in Rogation week, c 2d." What should we now think of an ecclesiastical nobleman, accepting a two-penny treat from a country church-warden? This dis- plays an instance of moderation in a class of people famous for luxury. It shews also the amazing reduction of money : the same sum which served my Lord Abbot four days, would now be devoured by a journeyman in four mi- nutes. 14-97. " paid for repairing the organs, to the organ-maker at Bromicicham, 106." Bir- mingham then, we find, discovered the powers of genius in the finer arts, as well as in iron. By " the organ-maker," we should suppose there was but one. It appears that the art of acquir- ing riches was as well understood by our fathers, as by us ; while an artist could receive as much money for tuning an organ, as would purchase an acre of land, or treat near half a gross of Lord Abbots. 46 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. BATTLE OF CAMP-HILL. 1643. Clarendon reproaches with virulence our spirited ancestors, for disloyalty to Charles the First. The day after the King left Birming- ham, on his march from Shrewsbury, in 1642, they seized his carriages, containing the royal plate and furniture, which they conveyed, for security, to Warwick Castle, They appre- hended all messengers and suspected persons ; frequently attacked, and reduced small parties of the royalists, whom they sent prisoners to Coventry. Hence the proverbial expression re- specting a refractory person, Send him to Co- ventry. In 1643, the King ordered Prince Rupert, with a detachment of two thousand men, to open a communication between Oxford and York. In his march to Birmingham, he found a company of foot, kept for the Parliament, lately reinforced by a troop of horse from the garrison at Lichfield : but supposing they would not resist a power of ten to one, he sent his quarter-master to demand lodging, and offer protection. But the sturdy sons of freedom, having cast up slight works at each end of the BATTLE OF CAMP-HILL. 47 town, and barricadoed the lesser avenues, re- jected the offer and the officers. The military- uniting in one small and compact body, assisted by the inhabitants, were determined the King's forces should not enter. Their little fire opened on the Prince : but bravery itself, though pos- sessed of an excellent spot of ground for de- fence, was obliged to give way to numbers. The Prince quickly put them to silence ; yet, under the success of his own arms, he was not able to enter the town ; for the inhabitants had choked up, with carriages, the deep and nar- row road, then between Deritend and Camp- hill, which obliged the Prince to alter his route to the left, and proceed towards Long-bridge. The spirit of resistance was not yet broken j they sustained a second attack, but to no pur- pose, except that of slaughter. A running fight continued through the town ; victory de- clared loudly for the Prince ; the retreat be- came general : part of the vanquished took the way Oldbury. William Fielding, Earl of Den- bigh, a volunteer under the Prince, being in close pursuit of an officer in the service of the Parliament, and both upon the full gallop, up Shirland-lane, in the manor of Smcthwick, the officer instantly turning, discharged a pistol at the Karl, and mortally wounded him with a random shot. The Parliament troops were ani- mated in the engagement by a clergyman, who 48 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. acted as governor; but being taken in the de- feat, and refusing quarter, he was killed in the Red Lion Inn. The Prince/provoked at the re- sistance, in revenge, set fire to the town. His wrath is said to have kindled in Bull-street, and consumed several houses near the spot, now N. 12. He obliged the inhabitants to quench the flames with a heavy fine, to prevent farther military execution. Part of the fine is said to have been shoes and stockings for his people. The Parliament forces had formed their camp in that well-chosen angle, which di- vides the Stratford and Warwick roads, upon Camp-hill. The victorious Prince left no gar- rison, because their insignificant works were untenable ; but left a humbled people, and marched to the reduction of Lichfield. I have a cannon ball, said to have been found at Camp-hill, which weighs upwards of six pounds, and is 12 inches in circumference. It is not without a smile, that I stranscribe a passage from the newspapers of the day, en- titled, " The barbarous and butcherly cruelty of the Cavaliers at Birmingham. April 8, 164-3, certain intelligence arrived of the cruel slaughtei of divers inhabitants of that honest town; about 80 houses were burnt down by that barbarous and butcherly prince of Robert; Prince Rupert, and his accursed Cavaliers. But his filching forces got but little of their inhuman barbarity, BATTLE OF CAMP-HILL. 49 for the unarmed inhabitants, mostly smiths, nailors, and workers in iron, with such weapons as they had, so knocked the Earl of Denbigh, that he received his death wound in his furious pursuit of them ; and, we are informed, that arch traitor to the Commons, Lord Digby, was wounded. It is however a remarkable provi- dence, that in plundering and burning the town, the greatest lost fell upon the malignant party, for most of the honest had conveyed their goods to Coventry, before the arrival of the Ca- valiers.'' Since the first publication of the above, three tracts relating to the battle of Birmingham written immediately after the event, have been reprinted. The first of these was written by a Roundhead, and is intitled, " A true Relation of P. Rupert's barbarous cruelty against the Towne of Brumingham." In this it is said, that Prince Rupert's troops, horse and foot, amounted to 2,000, while the townsmen had only 140 musqueteers; that thirty Cavaliers were killed, and many wounded; and that God made a way for the townsmen to es- cape, except fifteen unarmed men and two wo- men, who were killed, and some two or three poor fellows who were released by the soldiers that took them for two pence, eight pence, and a shilling each. It is further said, that the Prince burnt about eighty houses, suffering no E 50 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. man to carry away his goods, or quench the fire ; that the Cavaliers exulted over the inhabitants, and rejoiced that the wind stood right to con- sume the town. Their triumph however was of short duration, for the modest Parliamenta- rian adds, that, " The Lord caused the winds to turn, which was a token of his notice of their insultation." From the combustibles found in different parts of the town, it was evident that the Royalists intended to destroy the whole. The plunder, in money and goods, amounted to more than ^.2,000, ,.1300 be- ing taken from Mr. Peake, and much from Mr. Jennens. The second tract was written by a Cavalier, who leaving out the barbarous and bloody epi- thets of the others, calls it simply, " A Letter written from Walshall by a worthy Gentleman to his Friend in Oxford concerning Burming- ham." This gentleman begins by stating the crimes of the men of Birmingham which had drawn upon them the royal vengeance. They had sent 300 men to Coventry to assist in defending that city against the King s forces ; they had sent 15,000 swords to the Parliament army, while they not only refused to supply the Royal army with swords for their money, but impri- soned the agents who attempted to purchase them ; they had refused his Majesty's princely BATTLE OF CAMP-HILL. 51 goodness, grace, and favour, and seized some of his plate and goods, which they had carried to Warwick castle; they had sent out parties to plunder the King's friends ; and finally they had called Prince Rupert's soldiers " cursed dogs, devilish Cavaliers, and popish traytors." The Cavalier says that, on the resistance of the townsmen, the Prince was forced to give orders for firing a house or two ; but he imme- diately gave orders for the fire being quenched; that some soldiers, as yet unknown, fired the town in several places after the Prince had left it, but he sent the people word that it was not done by his command, and they were at liberty to extinguish the fire, if they could. The writer however acknowledges that this was not quite so soon accomplished as might have been de- sired. The gentleman professes to feel some com- punction for the death of a minister of the Gos- pel, who was slain by one of Prince Rupert's soldiers, but he draws consolation from two sources ; first, that the minister told the sol- dier who killed him, that the King was a perjured and papistical King, and he had rather die than live under him ; second, that the man was either mad, or one of the new enthusiasts. The third tract seems to be the official state- ment of the suffering party. It was published e c 2 52 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. by order of the Committee at Coventry, and is intitled " Prince Rupert's Burning Love to England, discovered in Birmingham's Flames." The title-page further announces it to be " a more exact and true narration of Birmingham's calamities under the barbarous and inhuman cruelties of Prince Rupert's forces. Wherein is related how that famous and well-affected towne of Birmingham was unworthily opposed, insolently invaded, notoriously robbed and plundered, and most cruelly fired in cold blood, the next day, by Prince Rupert's forces." It is said in this tract " that the men of better sort would have left the town, carrying the best of their property with them ; but the middling and inferior sort, that is, those who had little or nothing to lose, could not be prevailed upon to adopt that measure. None of the townsmen were hurt while they maintained their ground, but when they were scattered they were singled out and shot. The Cavaliers rode up into the towne like so many furys or bedlams, the Earl of Denbigh in the front, and singing as he rode. They shot at every doore or window where they could espy any looking out ; they hacked, hewed, or pistolled all they met with, without distinction ; blaspheming, cursing and damning themselves most hideously. Their horse rode desperatly around the towne, leap- ing hedges and ditches to catch the townesmen. BATTLE OF CAMP-HILL. ,53 They slew about 14 in all ; one of whom was Thomas the ostler at Swan, pistolled comming officiously to take their horses, besides one Mr. Whitehall, a minister, who hath long been lu- natick, and was lately come out of Bedlam. Supposing him to be Mr. Roberts, Minister of Birmingham, they did most cruelly mangle and hack him to death, and so went insulting up and down the towne that they had quartered the Minister, out of whose bloody hands the Lord's gracious providence delivered him, a little be- fore the town was assaulted. All the consider- able men escaped out of their snare; some 40 were taken prisoners, all inferior men, most of them their own favourers, and since for trifling sums of money they released them all, save two or three. " Having thus possessed themselves of the towne, they ran into every house, setting naked swords and pistols to the breasts of the women, plundering all before them, as well malignants as others. It is credibly believed they took from one Thomas Peake, a councellor, ^.1500, or ^\1300 at least ; for he afterwards deeply professed that they had left him in money but C)d. They took much money to protect people's houses, and afterwards betrayed them, and set them on fire. It is conceived they had ^.3000 in money from the towne." They violated the women, broke the windows, carried off the most 54 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. portable goods, destroyed the rest, and, as this document goes on to say, " They sate up revel- ling, robbing, tyrannizing over the poore af- frighted women and prisoners, drinking drunke, healthing upon their knees, yea, drinking healths to Prince Rupert's dog. 5 South side of Vauxhall-row - - 20 Watery-lane ------ 24 Great Brook-street - 27 Lawley-street - 47 Windsor-street - - - - - 55 Henry-street ----- 8 South side of Ashted - 94 705 MODERN STATE. 69 Between the Road to Coleshill and that to Lichfield. Houses. West side of Ashted 12 Woodcock-street - . - 87 Leicester-street Aston Road, East - _ 8 - 16 Love-lane _ 23 Duke-street - _ - 47 Prospect-row _ - 32 225 Deduct for the 70 houses in Duke-street, &c. 70 Additional houses - - 1.55 From the Liclifield to the Stafford Road. On the West of Lichfield road - 32 North end of Duke-street 8 York-street, North end 9 Addition to Staniforth-street 65 Nell-street - - - - - 11 Lancaster-street 63 188 From the Stafford to the Wolverhampton Road. North side of Price's-street 4 Summer-lane - 58 70 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. Houses, Hospital-street - 70 Hampton-street ----- 77 Bond-street - - 9 St. LukeVrow, to the Mile Stone - - 24 242 This great circle of streets, which has sur- rounded Birmingham during the last ten years, will be found to consist of 70, and the houses to be 3145. There must also have been erected in the internal parts of the town 600 more, so that an augmentation has taken place of 374,5, and 20,470 inhabitants. The hamlets of Deritend and Bordesley, which were chiefly one street in 1767, contained in 1791, Houses. On the east end of Di igbeth - - 40 Mill-lane - - 44 The street called Deritend - 287 Bridge-row - - - 10 Birchall-street - - - 77 Lombard-street - - - 60 Alcester-street - - - 94 Brandy-row - - - - 19 Warwick-street - _ - 28 Bradford-street - - - 112 Green-street - - - - 2,5 MODERN STATE. J I Houses. Cheapside ------ 108 Moseley-street ----- 50 954 The whole of Deritend and Bordesley, in 1781, consisted of five streets, 400 houses, atid 2125 inhabitants. In 1791 the streets were IS, the houses 954, and the inhabitants 5013. Bir- mingham therefore added to her dimensions, during these ten years, 78 streets, 4299 houses, and 23,358 people. I shall comprise, in one view, the state of Birmingham in ten different periods ; and though some are imaginary, perhaps they are not far from real. In the time of the Streets. an- Houses. Souls. cient Britons, - - 80 400 A. 1). 750, - 8 600 3000 1066, - 9 700 3500 1650, - 15 900 5472 1700, - 28 2504 15032 1731, - 51 3717 23286 1741, - 54 4114 24660 1781, - 125 8382 50295 1791, - 203 12681 73653 In 1778, Birmingham, exclusive of the ap- pendages, contained 8042 houses, 48252 inha- bitants. 72 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. At the same time Manchester consisted of 3402 houses, and 22,440 people. In 1779, Nottingham contained 3191 houses, and 17,711 souls. It is easy to see, without the spirit of pro- phecy, that Birmingham has not yet arrived at her zenith, neither is she likely to reach it for ages to come. Her increase will depend upon her manufactures ; her manufactures will de- pend upon the national commerce ; national commerce upon a superiority at sea; and this superiority may be extended to a long futurity. Birmingham, by an unjust and unnecessary war, afterwards underwent a material change. Her trade stagnated, her sons entered the army, their masters the gazette, and left 1600 empty houses. Five of these houses were mine. The tenants, instead of paying rent, decamped with the keys ; the houses unoccupied, were soon demolished; and tiles, timber, glass, lead, and bricks, were, to the very foundation, carried off. In 1801 I apprehend the population of Birmingham had decreased between three and four thousand. Affairs took a turn about the year 1808. The inhabitants increased more than the buildings; if one house was to be let, ten persons were ready to take it. I apprehend that there was at this period an increase of about 200 houses, and >00O people. MODERN STATE. J3 In 1811 I believe the population amounted to about 80,000. May the 2nd, 1816, there were 17)710 houses in Birmingham, which, on the calculation of five persons to a house, would give a population of 88,550. It is believed that considerably more than 290 houses were added from this time to the end of the year 1818; but this number only, on the same calculation, would make the inhabitants 90,000. The interior parts of the town are, like those of other places, parcelled out into small free- holds, perhaps originally purchased of the lords of the manor ; but, since its extraordi- nary increase, which began about the restora- tion, large tracts of land have been retailed out upon building leases. Some of the first that were granted, seem to have been about Worcester and Colmore-streets, at the trifling annual price of one farthing per yard, or under. The market ran so much against the lessor, that the lessee had liberty to build in what man- ner he pleased; and, at the expiration of the term, could remove the buildings, unless the other chose to purchase them. But the mar- ket has so altered, that in 1781 the lessee gave six-pence per yard ; was frequently restricted tied to the mode of building, and obliged to leave the premises in repair. 74 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. The rage for building is predominant : we dip our fingers into mortar almost as soon as into business. It is not wonderful that a per- son should be hurt by the falling of a house ; but, with us, a man sometimes breaks his back by raising one. This private injury, however, is attended with a public benefit of the first magnitude; for every " House to be Let" holds forth a kind of invitation to the stranger, who being of the laborious class promotes the manufactures. If we cannot produce many houses of the highest orders in architecture, we make out the defect in numbers, Perhaps more are erected here, in a given time, than in any place in the whole island, London excepted. It is remark- able, that in a town like Birmingham, where so many houses are built, the art of building is so little understood. The stile of architecture in the inferior sort, is rather shewy than last- ing. The proprietor generally contracts for a house of certain dimensions, at a stipulated price : this induces the artist to use some ingre- dients of the cheaper kind, and sometimes to try whether he can cement the materials with sand, instead of lime. But a house is not the only thing spoiled by the builder ; he frequently spoils himself: out of many successions of house-makers, I cannot recollect one who made a fortune. Many of these edifices have been MODERN STATE. 75 brought forth, answered the purposes for which they were created, and been buried in the dust, during my short acquaintance with Birming- ham. One would think, if a man can survive a house, he has no great reason to complain of the shortness of life. From the external gen- teel appearance of a house, the stranger would be induced to believe that the inhabitant was possessed of at least a thousand pounds ; but, if he looks within, he sees only the ensigns of beggary. We have people who have an income of four or live hundred pounds a year in houses, none of which, perhaps, exceed six pounds per annum. It may excite a smile to say, I have known two houses erected, one occupied by a man, his wife, and three children ; the other pair had four ; and twelve guineas covered every ex- pence ! Pardon, my dear reader, the omission of a pompous encomium on their beauty, or duration. I am inclined to think that in 1781 three fourths of the houses in Birmingham stood upon first foundations, and all the places of worship, except Deritend Chapel. About the year 1730, Thomas Sherlock, late Bishop of London, purchased the private estate of the ladies of the manor, chiefly land, about four hundred per annum. In 1758, the steward told me it had increased to twice the original value. The pious old bishop was frequently 76 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. solicited to grant building leases, but answered, " His land was valuable, and if built upon, his successor, at the expiration of the term, would have the rubbish to carry off:" he therefore not only refused, but prohibited his successor from granting such leases. But Sir Thomas Gooch, who succeeded him, seeing the great improvement of the neighbouring estates, and wisely judging fifty pounds per acre preferable to five, procured an act in about 1766, to set aside the prohibiting clause in the bishop's will. Since which, a considerable town may be said to have been erected upon his property, now about j^.2400 per annum. An acquaintance assured me, that in 1756 he could have purchased the house he then occu- pied for ,=.400 but he refused. In 1770, the same house was sold for ^.600, and in 1772, I purchased it for eight hundred and thirty five guineas, without any alteration, but what time had made for the worse; and for this price I had only an old house, which I was obliged to take down. Such is the rapid improvement in value of landed property, in a commercial country. Suffer me to add, though foreign to my subject, that these premises were the pro- perty of an ancient family of the name of Smith, now in decay. They were many centuries ago one of the first inns in Birmingham, and well known by the name of the Garland House, MODERN STATE. 77 perhaps from the sign ; but within memory, by that of Potter's Coffee-house. Under one part was a room about forty -five feet long, and fifteen wide, used for the town prison. In sinking a cellar we found a large quantity of tobacco- pipes of a singular construction, with some very antique earthen-ware, but no coin; also loads of broken bottles, which refutes the complaint of our pulpits against modern degeneracy, and in- dicates, the vociferous arts of getting drunk and breaking glasses, were well understood by our ancestors. In penetrating a bed of sand, upon which had stood a workshop, about two feet below the surface we came to a tomb six feet long, three wide, and five deep, built very neatly, with tiles laid flat, but no cement. The contents were mouldered wood, and pieces of human bone. In 178 1 I knew of no house in Birmingham, the inns excepted, whose annual rent exceeded ninety pounds. The united rents appeared to be about one hundred thousand, which, if we take at twenty years purchase, will compose a freehold of *.% 000,000. In 1812 the rents were nearly doubled. The new erections I have described, with their appendages, cover about 300 acres. If we allow the content:-; of the manor to be ?900, and deduct {)()() for the town, 500 more for roads, water, and waste land, and rate the re- 78 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. maining 1500 at the average rent of S/. per acre, we shall raise an additional freehold of ^.4500 per annum. This landed property, at thirty years pur- chase, will produce ^.135,000, and, united with the value of the buildings, the fee-simple of this region of genius will amount to -.2,135,000. STREETS, THEIR NAMES. W E accuse our short-sighted ancestors, and with reason, for leaving us almost without a church-yard and a market-place ; for forming some of our streets nearly without width, and without light. One would think they intended a street without a passage, when they erected Moor-street: and that their successors should light their candles at noon *. * This street was widened in 1807- STREETS, AND THEIR NAMES. 7<) Something, however, may be pleaded in ex- cuse, for we should ever plead the cause of the absent, by observing, that the concourse of people was small, therefore a little room would suffice; and the buildings were low, so that light would be less obstructed. Besides, as the increase of the town was slow, the modern augmentation could not then be discovered through the dark medium of time ; but the prospect into futurity is at this day rather brighter, for we plainly see ; and perhaps with more reason, succeeding generations will blame us for neglect. We pos- sess the power to reform, without the will ; why else do we suffer enormities to grow, which will have taken deep root in another age ? If utility and beauty can be joined together in the street, why are they ever put asunder ? It is easy for Birmingham to be as rapid in her improvement, as in her growth. We have more reason to accuse ourselves of neglect, than our ancestors ; for we retain all their blunders in street-making, and upon these we graft our own. The inhabitants of Birmingham may justly be stiled Masters of In- vention : the arts are obedient to their will ; but if Genius displays herself in the shops, she is seldom seen in the streets : though we have long practised the art of making streets, \v r c have an art to learn ; there is not a street in the whole town but might have been better con- structed. 80 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. When land is appropriated for a street, the builders are often under no controul; the lessee proceeds according to his interest, or fancy ; there is no man to preserve order, or prescribe bounds ; hence arise evils without a cure : such as a narrowness, which scarcely admits light, cleanliness, pleasure, health, or use ; unneces- sary hills, like that in Bull-street ; sudden falls, owing to the floor of one house being laid three feet lower than the next, as in Coleshill-street; one side of a street, like the deck of a ship, gunwale to, several feet higher than the other, as in Snow-hill, New-street, Friday-street, Pa- radise-row, Lionel-street, Suffolk-street, and Brick-kiln-lane. Hence also that crowd of enormous bulk sashes ; steps projecting from the houses and the cellars ; buildings, w T hich, like men at a dog-fight, seem rudely to crowd before each other; pent houses, rails, pallisades, &c. which have long called for removal. Till the year 1769, when the Lamp and Street Act was obtained, there were only two powers able to correct these evils; the lord of the manor and the freeholders ; neither of which were ex- erted. The lord was so far from preserving the rights of the public, that he himself became the chief trespasser. He connived at small en- croachments in others, to countenance his own. Others trespassed like little rogues, but he like a lord. In 1728, he seized a public building. STREETS, AND THEIR NAMES. 81 called the Leather-hall, and converted it to his private use. George Davis, the constable, sum- moned the inhabitants to vindicate their right ; but none appearing, the lord smiled at their supineness, and kept the property. In about 1745, he took possession of the Bull-ring, their little market-place, and began to build it up ; but although the people did not bring their ac- tion, they did not sleep as before, for they un- did in the night what he did in the day. In 17<58, when the houses at No. 3 were erected, in that extreme narrowly part of Bull-street, near the Welch Cross, the proprietor, emboldened by repeated neglects, chose to project half a yard beyond his bounds. But a private inha- bitant, who was an attorney, a bully, and a freeholder, with his own hands, and a few hearty curses, demolished the building, and re- duced the builder to order. But though the freeholders have power over all encroachments within memory, yet these are the only instances upon record of the exertion of that power. In 1791 the town consisted of about 200 streets, some of which acquired their names from a variety of causes, but some from no cause, and others have not yet acquired a name. Those of Bull-street, Cannon-street, and Lon- don 'Prentice-street, from the signs of their re- spective names. The first of these was origin- allv Chapel-street, from a Chapel belonging to S l 2 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. the Priory, which covered that ground, now No. 27 ; and the place of interment extended to the spot now No. 33. Some receive their names from the proprietors of the land, as Smalibroke- street, Freeman-street, Col more-street, Slaney- strcct, Weaman -street, Bradford-street, Col- more-row, Philip-street, and Bell-street. Dig- beth, or Ducks Bath, from the pools for ac- commodating that animal, was originally Well- street, from the many springs in its neighbour- hood. Other streets derive a name from caprice, as Jamaica-row, John and Thomas's streets. Some from a desire of imitating the metropolis, as, Fleet-street, Snow-hill, Ludgate-hill, Cheap- side, and Friday-street. Some again from local causes, as High-street, from its elevation, St. Martin's-lane, Church-street, Cherry-street, originally an orchard, Chapel-street, Bartholo- mew-row, Mass-house-lane, Old and New Meet- ing-streets, Steelhouse-lane, Temple-row and Temple-street, also Pinfold-street, from a pin- fold at No. 85, removed in 1752. Moor-street, anciently Mole-street, from the eminence on one side, or the declivity on the other. Park-street seems to have acquired its name from having been appropriated to the private use of the lord of the manor, and, except at the narrow end next Digbeth, it contained only the corner house to the south, entering Shut-lane, No. 82, lately taken down, which was called the Lodge. Spi- STREETS, AND THEIR NAMES. 83 ceal-street, anciently Mercer-street, from the number of Mercers shops ; and as the profes- sors of that trade dealt in grocery, it was pro- miscuously called Spicer-street. The present name is only a corruption of the last. The spot now the Old Hinkleys, was an enclosure till about 1720, in which horses were shewn at the fair, then held in Edgbaston-street. It was since a brick-yard, and contained only one hut, in which the brick-maker slept. The tincture of the smoky shops, with all their black furniture, for welding gun-barrels, which afterwards ap- peared on the back of Smallbroke-street, might occasion the original name of Inkleys; ink is well known; leys, is of British derivation, and means grazing ground ; so that the etymology perhaps is Black pasture. The Butts, took its name from a mark to shoot at, when the bow was the fashionable instrument of war, which the artist of Birmingham knew well how to make, and to use. Gosta Green (Goosc-stead-green) a name of great antiquity, now in decline ; once a tract of commons, circumscribed by the Staf- ford road, now Stafford-street; the roads to Lichfield and Coleshill, now Aston and Coles- hill-streets, and extending to Duke-street, the boundary of the manor. Perhaps, many ages after, it was converted into a farm, and was, within memory, possessed by a person of the name of Tauter, whence Tauter-street. g 'J 8i HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. Sometimes a street fluctuates between two name,s, as that of Catharine and Wittal, which at length terminated in favour of the former. Thus the names of Great George and Great Charles stood candidates for one of the finest streets in Birmingham, which after a contest of two or three years, was carried in favour of the latter. Others receive a name from the places to which they direct, as Worcester-street, Edg- baston-street, Dudley-street, Lichfield-street, Aston-street, Stafford-street, Coleshill-street, and Alcester-street. A John Cooper, the same person who stands in the list of donors in St. Martin's church, and who, I apprehend, lived about two hundred and fifty years ago, at the Talbot, now No. 20, in the High-street, left about four acres of land between Steelhouse-lane, St. Mary's chapel, and Walmer-lane, to make love-days for the people of Birmingham ; hence Love -day -croft. Various sounds from the trowel upon the pre- mises, in 17^8, produced the name of Love- day-street (corrupted into Lovely-street). This croft is part of an estate under the care of Lench's Trust ; and, at the time of the bequest, was probably worth no more than ten shillings per annum. At the top of Walmer-lane, which is the north-east corner of this croft, stood about half a dozen old alms-houses, perhaps erected in the beginning of the seventeenth STREETS, AND THEIR NAMES. 85 century, then at a considerable distance from the town. These were taken down in 1764, and the present alms-houses, which are thirty- six, erected near the spot, at the expence of the trust, to accommodate the same number of poor widows, who have each a small annual sti- pend, for the supply of coals ; this John Coo- per, for some services rendered to the lord of the manor, obtained three privileges, That of regulating the goodness and price of beer; con- sequently he stands in front of the whole race ot^ liquid high tasters ; that he should, whenever he pleased, bait a bull in the Bull-ring, whence arises the name ; and, that he should be allowed interment in the south porch of St. Martin's church. His memory ought to be transmitted with honour to posterity, for promoting the harmony of his neighbourhood ; but he ought to have been buried in a dunghill for punishing an innocent animal. His wife seems to have survived him ; she also became a benefactress, is recorded in the same list, and their monu- ment, in antique sculpture, is yet visible in the porch. 86 TRADE. X ERHAPS there is not by nature so much difference in the capacities of men, as by education. The efforts of nature will pro- duce a tenfold crop in the held, but those of art fifty. Perhaps too, the seeds of every virtue, vice, inclination, and habit, are sown in the breast of every human being, though not in an equal degree. Some of these lie dormant for ever, no hand inviting their cultivation. Some are called into existence by their own internal strength, and others by the external powers that surround them. Some of these seeds flou- rish more, some less, according to the aptness of the soil, and the modes of assistance. We are not to suppose infancy the only time in which these scions spring; no part of life is exempt. I knew a man who lived to the age of forty, totally regardless of music. A fiddler happening to have apartments near his abode, attracted his ear by frequent performances, which produced a growing inclination for that favour- TRADE. 87 ite science, and he became a proficient himself 1 . Thus, in advanced periods, a man may fail in love with a science, a woman, or a bottle. Thus avarice is said to shoot up in ancient soil ; and thus I myself bud forth in history at fifty- six. The cameleon is said to receive a tincture from the colour of the object that is nearest him ; but the human mind in reality receives a bias from its connexions. Link a man to the pulpit, and he cannot proceed to any great lengths in profligate life. Enter him into the army, and he will endeavour to swear himself into consequence. Make the man of humanity an overseer of the poor, and he will quickly find the tender feelings of commiseration hardened. Make him a surgeon, and he will amputate a leg with the same indifference with which a cutler saws a piece of bone for a knife handle. Make him a physician, and he will be the only person upon the premises, the heir excepted, unconcerned at the prospect of death. You commit a rascal to prison because he merits transportation, but by the time he conies out he merits a halter. By uniting with industry, we become industrious. It is easy to give in- stances of people whose distinguishing charac- teristic was idleness, but when they had breathed the air of Birmingham, diligence became the predominant feature. The view of profit, like 88 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. the view of corn to the hungry horse, excites to action. Thus the various seeds scattered by nature into the soul at its first formation, either lie neglected, are urged into increase by their own powers, or are drawn towards maturity by the concurring circumstances that attend them. The late Mr. Grenville observed, in the House of Commons, " That commerce tended to corrupt the morals of a people." If we exa- mine the expression, we shall find it true in a certain degree, beyond which, it tends to im- prove them. Perhaps every tradesman can furnish out numberless instances of small deceit. His con- duct is marked with a littleness, which though allowed by general consent, is not strictly just. A person with whom I have long been con- nected in business, asked, if I had dealt with his relation, whom he had brought up, and who had lately entered into commercial life. I an- swered in the affirmative. He replied, " He is a very honest fellow." I told him I saw all the finesse of a tradesman about him. " Oh, re- joined my friend, a man has a right to say all he can in favour of his own goods." Nor is the seller alone culpable. The buyer takes an equal share in the deception. Though neither of them speak their sentiments, they well under- stand each other. Whilst a treaty is agitating, the profit of the tradesman vanishes, vet the TRADE. 89 buyer pronounces against the article; but when finished, the seller whispers to his friend, " It is well sold," and the buyer smiles at the bargain. Thus is the commercial track a line of minute deceits. But, on the other hand, it does not seem possible for a man in trade to pass this line, without wrecking his reputation ; which, if once broken, can never be made whole. The character of a tradesman is valuable; it is his all ; therefore, whatever seeds of the vicious kind may shoot forth in the mind, they are carefully watched and nipped in the bud, that they may never blossom into action. Having stated the accounts between morality and trade, I shall leave the reader to draw the balance, and only ask, " Whether the people in trade are more corrupt than those out?" If the curious reader will lend an attentive ear to a pair of farmers in the market, bartering for a row, he will find as much dissimulation as at St. James's, or at any other Saint's, but couched in more homely phrase. The man of well- bred deceit, is infinitely your friend it would give him immense pleasure to serve you !" while the man in the frock " Will be if he tells you a word of a lie!" Deception is an innate principle of the human heart, not peculiar to one man, or one profession. Having occa- sion for a horse, in I/'^O, I mentioned it to an <)0 HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM. acquaintance, and informed him the uses; he assured me he had one that would exactly suit; which he shewed in the stable, and held the candle pretty high, for fear of affecting the straw. I told him it was needless to examine him, for I should rely upon his word, being conscious he was too much my friend to deceive me; therefore bargained, and caused him to be sent home. But by the light of the sun, which next morning illumined the heavens, I per- ceived the horse was greased on all fours. I therefore, in gentle terms, upbraided my friend with duplicity, when he replied with some warmth, " I would cheat my own brother in a horse." Had this honourable friend stood a chance of selling me a horse once a week, his own interest would have prevented him from deceiving me. A man enters into business with a view of acquiring a fortune a laudable motive! That property, which rises from honest industry, is an honour to its owner ; the repose of his age, the reward of a life of attention ; but, great as the advantage seems, yet, being of a private nature it is one of the least in the mercantile walk. For the intercourse occasioned by traffic, gives a man a view of the world, and of himself; re- moves the narrow limits that coniine his judg- ment, expands the mind, opens his understand- ing, removes his prejudices, and polishes his TRADE.