THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 GIFT OF 
 William B. Vasels
 
 
 r 
 

 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN PARTS OP THK 
 
 LATE AUSTRIAN LOW COUNTRIES,
 
 JOURNALS 
 
 OF 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN #ARTS OF THE 
 
 LATE AUSTRIAN LOW COUNTRIES, 
 
 FRANCE, 
 THE PAYS BE VAUD, 
 
 AND 
 
 TUSCANY, 
 
 IN 1787 AND 1789. 
 
 By LOCKHART MUIRHEAD, A.M. 
 
 LIBRARIAN TO THE UNIYERSITY OF GLASGOW. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 /HINTED BY A. STRA1IAN, PRINTERS-STREET, 
 
 TO* T. N. LONGMAN AND O. REES, FATERNOSTKR-ROW. 
 
 I80J.
 
 ITCO 7/O VI 
 
 ,OIJ/;V TO a f AS -3HT 
 Y M A ') 3 T J I 
 
 .g^i C.VTA xl ' 
 
 C1 A .i 1 1 ..-) 1 'J 7 A r .51 / ri Ji J 
 
 ^^ ^0 VTU-naviV-'J 3HT 
 
 -" **
 
 D 
 
 \\7 
 
 TO 
 
 WALTER FERGUS, 
 
 OF STRATHORE, ESQ^ 
 A TESTIMONY 
 
 RESPECT, ESTEEM, AND FRIENDSHIP. 
 
 841774
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 J. o mark the occurrences of a journey 
 is no unpleafing or unprofitable exercife. 
 Succeflion of objects at once quickens 
 and multiplies our conceptions ; whilft a 
 defire to regifter new appearances agree- 
 ably beguiles the ennui of monotonous 
 motion, of lounging at inns, and of 
 waiting upon waiters. Future leifure 
 may give to hurried notes the regular 
 form of diaries. Thefe we perufe with 
 intereft perhaps, with ftrange emotion, 
 at diftant and vacant hours. A fingle 
 line may, not unfrequently, revive fome 
 faded impreflion, or recall, in all the 
 fondnefs of regret, the fenfations of de- 
 light or melancholy that are paft. The 
 narrative may attract the attention, or 
 awaken the feelings of a friend, or im- 
 part
 
 yiii PREFACE. 
 
 part inftruction or amufement to a fellow 
 creature. 
 
 The continent of Europe, it is true, 
 has been often traverfed, and often de- 
 fcribed, but is, by no means, fo exempt 
 from viciflitude, that the accounts of one 
 generation mould preclude thofe of ano- 
 ther. Befides, extended tracts of ter- 
 ritory, adapted to the fyftems of modern 
 fociety, involve fuch a complication of 
 detail, that the tourift is ufually content 
 to felect thofe obfervations which moft 
 readily prefent themfelves, or which are 
 moft congenial to his tafte or habiti of 
 thinking. Hence, a complete picture 
 of one country has never, perhaps, been 
 exhibited to another, and hence, each 
 traveller, though he mould add much 
 may leave more to be added. In pro- 
 portion, too, as we accumulate remarks 
 on foreign parts, we enable the philofo- 
 pher to widen his bafis of comparifons 
 and inductions, to correct and modify 
 
 his
 
 PREFACE. IX 
 
 his ftatements, and, thus, gradually , to 
 approach to truth. 
 
 The imperfections, then, not the fub- 
 effj of the following pages, require to 
 be prefaced in the language of apology. 
 That the tenor of relation is not equally 
 copious and fatisfa&ory, and that the 
 lamenefs of particular pafiages may well 
 claim the utmorHatitude of candour and 
 indulgence, will be readily granted.' Let 
 it be granted, at the fame time, that no 
 confiderable extent of fcenery is -uni- 
 formly interefting, that the moft faith- 
 ful defcription, if unduly prolonged, will 
 fatigue at laft, that certain prominent 
 features may be eafily iketched, when the 
 delineation of a whole is unattainable, 
 that circumftances feldom permit a cod 
 iurvey of tranfient objects, that oppor- 
 tunities of appreciating national charac- 
 ter, cuftoms, and laws, are afforded to 
 few, and that the patience, candour, ,and 
 talents requifite to fuch appreciation, fall 
 2 to
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 to the lot of fewer ftill. Yet, where in- 
 formation was of eafy accefs, I have not 
 willingly allowed it to efcape ; where it 
 lay concealed, or beyond the reach of 
 ordinary investigation, I prefume not to 
 have brought it to light. The objects 
 which fell under my own obfervation, 
 and facts wfiich I found ftated upon evi- 
 dence deemed authentic, thefe I have 
 attempted to commit to writing, without 
 paffion and without prejudice. 
 
 In an age of faftidious refinement, 
 a recurrence of the fame, or of fimilar 
 modes of expreffion, may provoke the 
 chaftifement of minute criticifm. But, 
 until appearances be more diftindtly va- 
 ried, or the energies of language be found 
 adequate to thofe innumerable delicacies 
 of gradation which fo gracefully enliven 
 and diverfify our abode, in vain may we 
 hope to avoid repetition or coincidence 
 of phrafe. One river, valley, or fnoun- 
 tain refembles another- the contours of 
 
 dif-
 
 PREFACE. XI 
 
 different landfcapes may not all be dif- 
 fimilar, and there may be perceptions 
 and feelings, which can only be perceived 
 and felt. 
 
 With a view to break uniformity of 
 recital, and temper the drynefs of cir- 
 cumftantial detail, I have, occafionally, 
 hazarded a few reflections, without pur- 
 fuing them to any length : for the bufi- 
 nefs of the journalift, if I rightly con- 
 ceive, is to invite the thoughts of others, 
 not, obtrufively, to difcufs his own. 
 Pictures of characters, from real, life, 
 and extracts from private correfpondence 
 might have enlarged the volume and 
 gratified the curiofity of fome. The tafk, 
 too, would have been eafy, but would it 
 have been honourable ? As I value, fo 
 I refpect the mutual confidence of un- 
 reftrained and unftifpecting intercourfe, 
 the grand charm of domeftic fociety 
 and of the intimacies of friendfhip. 
 Yet I have not fcrupled to infert fhort 
 
 no-
 
 Xii PREFACE. 
 
 notices of eminent men of men emi- 
 nent, at leaft, in their native diftri&s, 
 and who, however little known to fame, 
 deferve to be commemorated. Tyrants 
 and licenfed butchers have had their pa- 
 negyrifts let us not difdain the humble 
 labours of the man of letters. Know- 
 ledge may be power but true know- 
 ledge is alfo virtue, and may finally ob- 
 tain the noble triumphs of benevolence 
 and peace. 
 
 An expectation of retracing the fame 
 routes, and of bringing to a firft ifcetch 
 the refults of a fecond, perhaps, of a 
 third review, has long retarded the ad- 
 juftment of the following feries of ob- 
 
 fervations. But the delays and difap- 
 pointments incident to the purfuits of 
 an individual, vanifti at once into an im- 
 perceptible point, when they originate 
 in the fame caufes which have affected 
 the deareft concerns of millions of the 
 fpecies. 
 
 JOUR-
 
 JOURNALS 
 
 OF 
 
 T R A V E L S, 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 FROM DOVER TO BRUSSELS. 
 
 "jlhjan. 1787. 1 HIS morning I added 
 one to a motely group of paflengers for 
 Oftend. A crofs wind and heavy fea 
 were attended with their ufual comforts, 
 tacking, pitching, and inverted motions. 
 So I pafled a cold and lonely day, in a 
 corner of the quarter-deck, refigning my 
 place in the cabin to thofe who could 
 both fail and fpeak, and fympathifing 
 with the unwieldy alderman, who ear- 
 neftly requefted his travelling companion 
 not
 
 2 FROM DOVER 
 
 not to interrupt their riding by conver- 
 fation. In juftice, however, to thofe 
 fenfations which are produced by fea- 
 ficknefs, tooth-ach, gout, and difap- 
 pointed love, it deferves to be recorded, 
 that, though fufficiently galling to the 
 patient, they feldom rack the feelings of 
 the by (landers. 
 
 The wind greatly abated towards 
 evening, when we caft anchor in feven 
 fathoms, off Calais. 
 
 'In compliance with the joint requeft 
 of matter and mate, I now ventured to 
 crawl into the cabin, and enjoyed the 
 luxury of a bed, though not of fleep. 
 Whether in admiration of my ftoicifm 
 through the day, or of a refpectable 
 portion of fea-ftore, which I had quietly 
 ceded to the empire of their knives and 
 forks, I know not, but the gentlemen 
 juft mentioned condefcended to anfwer 
 all my queries. It was difficult, indeed, 
 to determine which of the two was the 
 
 moft
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 3 
 
 moft confequential ; but both feemed to 
 be very capable of giving me local in- 
 formation. To have reje&ed the latter, 
 becaufe conveyed in a ftately tone, would 
 have favoured of the haughtinefs of my 
 inftructors. Doubtlefs, we are much 
 the creatures of circumftance educa- 
 tion, profeflion, accidents, and modes of 
 life, form our habits and mould our 
 manners. The petty fkipper is/ more 
 felf-important than the captain of a man 
 of war, becaufe more ignorant, and lefs 
 converfant in fociety which is character- 
 ifed by good- breeding, whilft a profeflbr 
 of flender attainments betrays a degree 
 of importance, to which a Bacon, a 
 Boyle, and a Newton, were ftrangers. 
 
 la all probability, Captain , his 
 
 fecond in command, and the writer of 
 thefe journals, may not meet again. 
 The ideas which we formed of one 
 another, during the random acquaintance 
 of a few hours, are of little moment 
 B 2 to
 
 4 PROM DOVER 
 
 to onrfelvcs, and of lefs to the world. 
 Individuals daily perim, but the race 
 abides. The mariner, who difcourfes 
 of foundings, and he who liftens to him, 
 jnuft quickly give place to others. The 
 appearances of external nature, though 
 liable, too, to progrefiive change, aflame 
 a more durable afpecl: than the being 
 who contemplates them. The chalk- 
 hills and ftraits of Dover have under- 
 gone little variation during a lapfe of 
 ages, whilft thoufands of our fellow 
 mortals, who, in the purfuit of health, 
 of bufmefs, or amufement, paid them a 
 tranfient vifit, have been gathered to 
 their fathers. I find the paffage, from 
 more to more, at the narroweft part, is 
 reckoned twenty-one miles, but, from 
 the quay of Dover to that of Calais, 
 twenty-four. The haven of the latter 
 is left dry at every ebb, but has three 
 fathoms at ordinary flood tides. The 
 mean height of neap tides is fifteen, and 
 
 of
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 5 
 
 of fprlng tides twenty-four, feet. The 
 average depth of the channel ? at fpring 
 tides, is computed at twenty- four fathoms 
 andiA half ; but, as. the paflage gradually 
 widens, the depth increafes to an hun- 
 dred fathoms. The meeting of the 
 currents from either ocean produces a 
 fenfible agitation between Haftings and 
 Boulogne. A judicious feries of found- 
 ings, which mould afcertain the relations 
 of the fubmarine and fubterraneous de- 
 pofitions, might, perhaps, corroborate 
 the concluflons of Buffon and other 
 naturalifts, who, from the coincidence 
 of ftratification on the oppofite fliores, 
 have been induced to adopt the opinion 
 that our ifland once made part of the 
 continent of Europe. At what period, 
 and by what operation of nature, gradual 
 or violent, the phyfical divifion was 
 effected, are queftions which no labour 
 of refearch may ever folve. If the in- 
 tervention of a few leagues of fait water 
 B 3 has
 
 6 FROM DOVER 
 
 has given rife to a fyftem of prejudice 
 and rivalfhip, fubverfive of the common 
 peace, we may affect to lament the in- 
 trufions of the ocean, but fhould rifever 
 forget, that the fame Being, who rules 
 the waves, when he endowed us with 
 reafon and expanding hearts, connected 
 our trueft intereft and our pureft plea- 
 fures with the exercife of that benevo- 
 lence, which difregards the cafual limits 
 of land and water. 
 
 8tb. Refumed my ftation on deck 
 before dawn, when we were gliding 
 along, under an eafy breeze. At noon 
 we were abreaft of Nieuport, confpicuous 
 by its two fteeples, and entered Oftcnd 
 exactly at two o'clock. 
 
 This port is ftrongly fortified, and 
 capable of receiving a confiderable num- 
 ber of fuch veffels as can clear the fhoals 
 at the entrance. The latter is reckoned 
 iinfafe during violent winds from weft 
 or north-weft ; but there is good an- 
 chorage
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 7 
 
 chorage in the roads. The coaft is flat, 
 and dangerous in fogs. 
 
 On quitting the packet, I was fur- 
 rounded by a parcel of ragged and bawl- 
 ing porters. Two of the moft expert, 
 who held my trunks by right of occu- 
 pancy, accompanied me to the London- 
 Tavern, kept by Mr. Sampfon, an Eng- 
 lilhman. 
 
 As I awaited dinner in the coffee- 
 room, two boys, apparently of twelve 
 or thirteen years of age, wrapt in warm 
 furtouts, took their feats with great 
 compofure, and called, in Flemifh, each 
 for his tobacco pipe and tumbler of 
 punch. Like grave loungers, they con- 
 verfed, fmoaked, and tippled, without 
 attracting the attention or ridicule of 
 any in the room, except of the nouveau 
 debarque. 
 
 Having been recommended to Monf. 
 
 B.I did myfelf the pleafure of waiting 
 
 upon him in the evening, and found 
 
 B 4 him
 
 S FROM DOVER 
 
 him writing en robe de chambre^ in a 
 counting-room, hung with old arras, and 
 divided by antique ikreens. Thefe are 
 trifling circumftances, but mark a coun- 
 try which is not Britifh. Monf. 13. at 
 once negotiated my letter of credit, gave 
 me a note of the different coins of the 
 country, and very politely favoured me 
 with his beft advice as to the profecution 
 of my route. 
 
 On my return to the inn, I found 
 the fitting room converted into a fcene 
 of rude mirth and licentious uproar. 
 The a&ors were half a dozen of Englifli 
 fhipmafters, I prefume fmugglers. Since 
 the declaration of the freedom of this 
 ^oi^fuch captains are not only tolerated, 
 but received with welcome, as they give 
 hard cafh for brandy, tea, lace, &c. and 
 have occafioned an additional annual 
 circulation of 300,000 /. Sterling for 
 articles prohibited in Great Britain. To 
 plead the caufe. of contraband traffic, 
 
 would
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 9 
 
 would be to recommend a game of def- 
 perate hazard, which enriches a few 
 crafty or fortunate knaves, whilft it pa- 
 ralyfes every fpring of honeft induftry, 
 and, in proportion as it multiplies oaths, 
 diminimes their falutary fanclion. But 
 neither would I applaud the complex 
 and difcouraging fyftem of fifcal prohi- 
 bitions and reftraints, which fetter the 
 operations of the honeft trader, and 
 prevent the markets from finding their 
 natural level. Laijfcx-nous falre fhould 
 be founded every morning in the ears 
 of all the princes and iiatefinen in the 
 world. 
 
 gib. Oftend is faid to contain 10,000 
 inhabitants, many of whom are foreign- 
 ers ; has eight wide ftreets regularly 
 iflfuing from the market-place, a large 
 church, dedicated to St. Peter, the town 
 houfe, with its dome and towers, and 
 the guard-houfe, ,a more fimple edifice. 
 Marfliy grounds environ it on the land 
 
 fide;
 
 10 FROM DOVER 
 
 fide ; but its artificial means of defence 
 have been removed by order of the Em- 
 peror, who has taken a diflike to forts 
 and monafteries. Moft of the houfes 
 are low, and many of them have their 
 ends to the ftreet, with arched gateways, 
 a common ftyle of building in Flanders, 
 and which may yet be traced in fome of 
 the decayed towns of Scotland, formerly 
 connected by trade with Bruges and 
 Antwerp. The walls facing the' ftreet 
 are ' moftly whitened ; and the whole, 
 in a frofty day, looks marvelloufly clean. 
 A ferious misfortune is want of good 
 water, which, indeed, feldom abounds 
 in flat diftrids, efpecially on the fea 
 coaft. Part of what is daily confumed 
 in Oftend is fupplied from citterns filled 
 by rain, and the reft is brought in cafks 
 from a confiderable diftance. The fums 
 formerly expended upon the mainte- 
 nance of the fortifications might have 
 been beftowed in procuring the comfort 
 
 of
 
 TO BRUSSELS. II 
 
 of water conduits : or, if fuch a gift 
 appeared too humble in the eyes of the 
 Imperial Jofeph, he might have con- 
 ftructed a long and magnificent aque- 
 duct, and have given fome import to 
 his prefent empty title of King of the 
 Romans. 
 
 Early in the 9th century, Oftend was 
 only a fifhing village, but had aflumed 
 the rank of bourgade, or townlet, 1072. 
 In 1445, Philip the Good furrounded 
 it with walls, conftructed regular gates, 
 and enlarged the harbour. A plan of 
 complete fortification was executed 1583, 
 under the orders of the Prince of Orange, 
 then Mailer of Ghent and Bruges. The 
 memorable fiege of three years, three 
 months, three weeks, three days, and 
 three hours, was attended with the dread- 
 ful lofs of 130,000 lives! When the 
 place at length furrendered, it was a heap 
 of ruins. So, we may prefume, was the 
 fmock of Ifabella Eugenia, governefs 
 
 of
 
 12 FROM DOVER 
 
 of the Low Countries, who raflily vowed 
 not to change it during the fiege. The 
 compliant ladies of the court, borrefco 
 rcferens, followed her example ! 
 
 Oftend is governed by a baiili^ named 
 by the Emperor for life, a burgomafter, 
 feven eclevins^i fubordinate magiftrates, 
 and a treafurer. Imports are exempted 
 from duties, but fubjecl to a tax of ten 
 per cent, if conveyed into the country. 
 The port dues are moderate, and the 
 annual clearances of veflels from icoo 
 to 1 200. 
 
 The town's motto is, OSTENDE nobis, 
 Domine, mifcricordiam tuam. May the 
 prayer be heard, in fpite of the pun, and 
 may the Lord deal more piteoufly with 
 the good burghers, than their cuftom- 
 houfe deals with ftrangers ! A traveller 
 cannot proceed without having his 
 trunks plumbed, and procuring apaffe- 
 avant) unkfs he chufe to have his goods 
 and chattels ruddy fcrutinizcd at every 
 
 petty
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 1 3 
 
 petty bureau dc douane. This pleafing 
 ceremony was performed upon my 
 moveable eftate once for all ; every 
 thing was thrown Into beautiful con- 
 fufion v and, befides half-a'-crown for 
 three yards of finall cord, and two leaden 
 ieals about the fize of a halfpenny, I 
 was fentenced to pay one fhilling and 
 fixpence for two pair of- unwarned 
 {lockings. My new fhoes efcaped tax- 
 ation, by putting them on in prefence 
 of the inquifitors ; and a piece of fringed 
 work, which I had the honour of bearing 
 from one lady to another, had already 
 been condemned as contraband, when 
 the eloquence of Mrs. Sampfon, feconded 
 by two efcalins, reftored it to the lift of 
 lawful entries. No wonder that I longed 
 to make the duft from my feet, and 
 heard with pleafure that the barge would 
 foon be in motion. 
 
 About three o'clock we embarked at 
 the Sas, a large bafon or refervoir, which 
 
 fupplies
 
 14 FROM DOVER 
 
 fupplles the canal of Bruges by means 
 of floodgates, which are opened at high 
 water and fhut at ebb. Along this 
 bafon are ranged wind-mills for fawing 
 timber. The canal admits veflels of 
 300 tons. A greater flope of the bank 
 within, and other ufeful improvements, 
 might be fuggefted by a comparifon 
 with fome of the modern navigable com- 
 munications in Great Britain. The fiat- 
 nefs of the country, however, precludes 
 the neceflity of much hydraulic appara- 
 tus ; aKd let it be mentioned to the 
 credit of the Flemings, that they had 
 canals in the I2th century. 
 
 I found the track-boat neat and clean, 
 conftru&ed and rigged fomewhat in the 
 manner of a Dutch hoy, with a hand- 
 fome roomy cabin at each end, and one 
 of an inferior defcription in the middle, 
 for paflengers who pay half price, or 
 for mendicant friars who pay nothing. 
 
 The
 
 TO BRUSSELS. *5 
 
 The vefTel is dragged by a pair of horfes 
 at fuch an equable rate, that a league and 
 an hour are fynonymous terms, and the 
 latter is even more frequently employed 
 than the former. Our company con- 
 fifted of thirty, though the barge has 
 accommodation for double that number. 
 Some played at cards, others converfed, 
 and not a few had recourfe to a bottle 
 of fmall white-wine, without, however, 
 betraying the flighteft fymptom of riot 
 or intoxication. Even the bargemen 
 were tame and fober. Some of the gen- 
 tlemen were fhrouded in ample cloaks, 
 white or blue, with trimmings of gold 
 or filver lace, and wore large muffs. 
 The drefs of the women feemed com- 
 fortable rather than tafteful, and their 
 complexions frefh, but void of anima- 
 tion. Had not their chaffing-difhes of 
 earthen ware been filled with kindled 
 charcoal, a carelefs obferver would have 
 
 taken
 
 l6 FROM DOVER 
 
 taken them for fomething very dif- 
 ferent *. 
 
 As a thick fog, no uncommon pheno- 
 menon in the Low Countries, concealed 
 every thing around us, I contrived to 
 communicate in Latin and broken French 
 with a ftudent of theology from Lou- 
 vain. " You need not much regret priva- 
 tion of profpect," faid he ; " as our coun- 
 try prefents a level furface, a fmall ex- 
 tent only can be viewed from a track- 
 Ct fchuyt at any time ; to fee a fample or 
 " two is to fee the whole : we have feveral 
 " large towns, abundance of rich and well 
 " cultivated fields, and a fubftantial pea- 
 " fantry." Onthefubje&of the late diffen- 
 fions in his univerfity, he exprefTed him- 
 felf with apparent referve, infinuated 
 that both parties had conducted them- 
 
 * So faithful, obferves Captain Cook, are the Dutch 
 ladies at the Cape of Good Hope to the modes of 
 their country, that they ftill make ufe of their chaufFe- 
 picds, though \vilhout fire. 
 
 10 felves
 
 TO BRUSSELS. IJ 
 
 felves in a manner unworthy of the li- 
 terary chara&er, and readily admitted 
 that the members ot fuch a refpedable 
 feminary fhould be public teachers, in- 
 terefted and active in the difFufion of 
 knowledge and principles of humanity, 
 deriving efteem from their own worth 
 and talents, and incapable of facrificing 
 truth and virtue to the caprice of a 
 prince, or the profligacy of his minions. 
 Night came upon us before we landed. 
 The guards opened the gate to admit 
 the paflengers, and I accompanied my 
 brother ftudent to the Hotel de Commerce. 
 Here we -flipped at the public table, in 
 a large gloomy apartment, hung with 
 tapeftry. The board was amply fur- 
 ntthed, and fpeedily cleared. After 
 fome fedate Flemilh converfation, the 
 party feparated. It was really a yawn- 
 ing evening. When left alone in a large 
 dull bed-room, lighted by a wretched 
 taper, I could hardly believe I was in a 
 c fre-
 
 l8 FROM DOVER 
 
 frequented inn. All was ftill and filent 
 as the grave. Morpheus, like a kind 
 friend, interpofed his gentle fervices, 
 and treated me with a double nofegay 
 of poppies, as I invoked his aid upon 
 a high and clumfy bed. 
 
 loth. I Tallied from the fombre hotel 
 with the firft dawn ; but, as the barge 
 for Ghent departs at nine o'clock, my 
 notices of Bruges muft be fhort and 
 defultory. A circumference of fifteen 
 miles reduced to five, the bufy hum of 
 men exchanged for flraggling priefts or 
 friars, pavements and footways over- 
 grown with grafs, fragments of huge 
 weighing machines, the flattered walls 
 of feventeeh confular palaces, and en- 
 tire ftreets configned to defolation, are 
 the melancholy memorials of a once 
 flouriming and extenfive commerce. 
 Antwerp firft, and next Amfterdam, 
 contributed to its decline. Of thefe, the 
 former has alfo fallen from its fplendor, 
 14 and
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 19 
 
 and the fecond has, perhaps, -attained the 
 fummit of its greatnefs. So fares it in 
 the rotation of human events : yet, as a 
 depot of goods deftined for the interior, 
 
 Bruges ftill retains a petty traffic, and * 
 the poorer citizens find employment in 
 the manufacture of broad baize, and 
 fome of the coarfer fabrics. 
 
 Bruges, it has been alleged, has its 
 name from the three hundred bridges 
 (bruggeri] which once formed various 
 communications over its interfe&ing ca- 
 nals. It is nearly of a circular form, 
 with feven gates, fix large market places, 
 200 ftreets compofed of houfes larger 
 and higher than thofe of Oftend, a ca- 
 thedral founded 865, and dedicated to 
 St. Donatus, feven churches, fourteen 
 chapels, and various other religious 
 buildings. The fpire of St. Marys is 
 of unufual elegance and height, and is 
 defcried by mariners, when off Oftend. 
 Several rows of trees, and a tall fpire 
 c 2 adorn
 
 20 FROM DOVER 
 
 adorn the public fquare. Chiming of 
 bells is much admired in this quarter of 
 the town, and feems to be a frequent 
 and favourite entertainment in the Ne- 
 therlands. The town-houfe is a ftately 
 morceau, in which the Greek and Go- 
 thic ftyles of architecture are happily 
 blended, yet with fuch a wanton pro- 
 fufion of ornament as to take from the 
 general effect. Near it ftands the chapel 
 of the holy blood. The precious relict, 
 refembling a whitifh jelly, with a few 
 red fpots, inclofed in a double glafs vial, 
 was brought from Paleftine 1148, by a 
 Count of Flanders, or by tradition, and 
 ufed to melt regularly every Friday 
 morning, and continue diflblved till three 
 o'clock, when it again congealed, and 
 this during half a century after its im- 
 portation ! 
 
 Bruges is the cradle of many erudits, 
 but of whofe lives little elfe is known 
 than names and dates. Charles Ferdl-
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 21 
 
 ) though blind from infancy, com- " 
 bined the qualifications of a mufician, 
 orator, and philofopher. He gave pre- 
 lections on belles lettres at Paris. Pope 
 Innocent VIII. informed of the extent 
 of his attainments, and the fanctity of 
 his life, allowed him to take deacon's 
 orders ; and he is faid to have preached 
 with uncommon fervor of eloquence. 
 Simon Sfevin, the mathematician, pafles 
 for the inventor of failing chariots, which 
 run at the rate of four Dutch leagues an 
 hour. Grotius honoured the contrivance 
 with a poem, intitled, Iter curfus ve- 
 lifcrl *. Why has the difcovery been 
 neglected ? John of Bruges is reputed 
 the firft painter in oil, and the name of 
 
 * Troll, in his letters on Iceland, aflerts, that a 
 peafant had conftruded a fledge, in the form of a 
 fliip, with fails, and which performed land -voyages in 
 winter over level tracts of countrj. Two of his 
 fons, in failing home from church, unfortunately 
 overturned it, and broke it in pieces. 
 
 c 3 Gomar
 
 32 FROM DOVER 
 
 Gomar is perpetuated in the calviniftic 
 fet, of which he was the founder. 
 
 Again took barge. They reckon the 
 diftance eight hours. Among the paf- 
 fengers, I could not help remarking a 
 friar, who alternately recited his bre- 
 viary, and bowed to the company. His 
 devotion and good breeding feemed 
 equally matter of routine. In this re- 
 fpect, there are many friars : yet of the 
 two, I would be more in chanty with 
 this nonchalance than with the grimace 
 of TartufFe. 
 
 Un rien prefque fuffit pour lefcandalifer, 
 Jufquei-la qu'ilfe vint, I'autrejour, acufer 
 D* avoir pris une puce enfaifantfapriere, 
 Et de I* avoir tuee a<uec trap de colert. 
 
 The fog again fetting in, I went be- 
 low, and was agreeably furprifed to meet 
 with an Englifti gentleman, who had 
 frequently traverfed Auftrian Flanders. 
 His remarks upon the afpect and re- 
 
 fources
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 23 
 
 fources of the country coincided with 
 thofe of the ftudent from Louvain. No 
 land, it would appear, lies wafte ; and, 
 if too little attention is, perhaps, paid to 
 pafturage, three hundred years have 
 witnefled the induftry and fuccefs of 
 the Flemings in the culture of grain. 
 The multiplication of the human race 
 keeps pace with that of the means of 
 fuftenance ; and the Low Countries, 
 though often wafted by war and pefti- 
 lence, rank, at this day, among the moft 
 populous diftricts of Europe. Yet, the 
 very circumftance of their natural ferti- 
 lity may provoke the cupidity of neigh- 
 bouring dates. 
 
 At one o'clock we were fummoned 
 to dinner, and partook of two courfes, 
 wines, and a deflert. A feparate dinner 
 was ferved up to paflengers of the fe- 
 cond order, and a third to thofe who 
 have their conveyance free. Thefe fe- 
 veral repafts are quietly prepared in a 
 c 4 fmall
 
 24 FROM DOVER 
 
 fmall kitchen j and every thing proceeds 
 
 with the utmoft regularity. 
 
 As the Bruflels diligence received me 
 from the track-boat, and merely pafled 
 along fomeof the outfkirts of 'Ghent, I can 
 enter into no details refpecting this once 
 great and profperous city. Provoking 
 it is, thus to have a faint and tranfient 
 glimpfe of a place of note ; but my time 
 was not my own, and could not be 
 fquandered in the gratification of curio- 
 fity. Curiofity itfelf is a relative term ; 
 for I have heard of an Englifh traveller, 
 who merely changed horfes at Paris, 
 and alked the name of the town ; and 
 have feen a wealthy gentleman, who 
 travelled four hundred miles to London, 
 which he had never feen, fmifhed hi< 
 bufmefs in an hour, and immediately 
 meafured back his route. 
 
 The circumftances of our land con- 
 veyance were, by no means, propitious 
 a clumfy, ill hung coach all the 
 
 places
 
 TO BRUSSELS. 25 
 
 places taken the dearth of converfation 
 fupplied by a grating Flemifh fong the 
 clamour of a wafpifh bantling and a 
 very fcanty allowance of ileep at Aljl* 
 
 I itb. Were again feated in our dili- 
 gence by four o'clock in the morning. 
 Moft of the company renewed their in- 
 terrupted {lumbers. 
 
 Day-light difplayed a portion of Bra- 
 bant, abounding in villages and com- 
 fortable hamlets, in cows, hogs, and 
 poultry. The general flatnefs, as we 
 approached Bruflels, was relieved by 
 gentle wavings, whilft hedges, planta- 
 tions, and horticulture were profufely 
 friended with the labours of the plough.
 
 a6 BRUSSELS. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 JJRUSSELS, or, according to the French 
 orthography, Bruxellcs^ is fituated in the 
 heart of a fertile and populous diftrift, 
 about 200 feet above the level of the 
 fea, and in a climate which is reckoned 
 temperate and falubrious, though fre- 
 quently deformed by fogs. 
 
 The town, which ftands partly on a 
 plain, and partly on a rifmg ground, in 
 fhape refembles a pear, with the taper- 
 ing end to the fouth. A fuite of earthen 
 ramparts, faced with brick, and crowned 
 with rows of trees, forms a moft agree- 
 able and varied walk, all around the 
 city. So gay and fhifting is the prof- 
 pec~t, that I could never patiently attend 
 
 to
 
 BRUSSELS. 27 
 
 to the cumberfome ornaments of the 
 feven gates, the gloomy maifon deforce^ 
 the antique round tower of the clothiers, 
 and a few other minute objects which 
 occur in the tour of the ramparts. 
 
 Within the gates are reckoned from 
 300 to 400 ftreets and lanes, 14,500 
 houfes, and_from four fcore to ninety 
 thoufand inhabitants. Moft of the 
 houfes in the old part of the town are 
 of brick, with painted, or white warned 
 walls, and many of them with iron bars 
 at the windows on the ground floor, 
 arfd gateways to the ftreet. The ftreets 
 are, in general, narrow, and deftitute of 
 footways, with lamps fufpended by cords 
 over the middle. 
 
 The numerous inns afford genteel- 
 and reafonable accommodation. Nearly 
 200 hackney coaches, clumfy, but gaudy 
 and comfortable, are employed at the 
 rate of an efcalin (ydl) per hour. The 
 difplay of equipages, on certain holi- 
 days,
 
 28 BRUSSELS, 
 
 days, is rich and glaring : but the Briton 
 looks in vain for the fmart trim carnage 
 of his native country. 
 
 To enumerate and defcribe the con- 
 tents of the ten quarters of BrufTels, 
 would greatly exceed the plan of thefe 
 journals. I, therefore, only flightly 
 tpuch on a few of the mod confpicuous 
 objects. 
 
 I. The ftately front of the palace, 
 planned by the Sieur Folte, is embelliih- 
 cd with ftatues and has reliefs by Del- 
 veaux. The Hercules, at the bottom 
 of the grand ftaircafe, is an admired 
 production of the fame chifel. The 
 chapel, on the right of the principal en- 
 try, all done in ftucco, and adorned with 
 a double range of pillars, deferves to be 
 particularly noticed, 
 
 In the centre of the place royak^ a 
 fquare remarked for fine buildings, and 
 the ftriking portico of the new church 
 of St. Coudenberg, the ftates of Bra^ 
 
 bant
 
 BRUSSELS* 19 
 
 bant have ere&ed a bronze ftatue of the 
 late Duke Charles of Lorraine. 
 
 The arfenal contains the complete ar- 
 mour of Charles V. the furniture of his 
 war horfe, his fword of ftate, the grand 
 ftandard of France, taken at the battle 
 of Pavia, the curioufly wrought armour 
 of the unfortunate Montezuma, the 
 archduke Albert's coat of mail and 
 heavy arms, the Huffed fkin of the horfe 
 on which the infanta Ifabella made her , 
 entry into BrufTels, the arms of Maxi- 
 milian, of the Duke of Alva, Prince of 
 Parma, &c. &c. 
 
 The fagacious Marfden has noticed 
 the large whifkers on Montezuma's vi- 
 zor, and is very unwilling to deprive 
 the native Americans of beards. Cer- 
 tain it is, that, among fome of the In- 
 dian tribes of the new world, eradica- 
 tion is ftill practifed. Frequent repeti- 
 tion of the practice, may, perhaps, have 
 ultimately obliterated this mark of man- 
 hood
 
 gO BRUSSELS. 
 
 hood among other races : and thus ac- 
 counts, apparently difcordant, may be 
 reconciled. 
 
 Hie Duke of Aremberg's hotel, and 
 the church of the Carmelites deferve to 
 be vifited on account of feveral mafter- 
 pieces by Rubens. The fupprefled 
 church of the Jefuits, dedicated to St. 
 Michael, and ornamented by a tall and 
 elegant fpire, is, perhaps, the moil hand- 
 fome in Bruflels. 
 
 II. The chapel of our lady is a fine 
 remnant of Gothic architecture, embel- 
 lilhed, without, by fome ftatues of 
 Quefnoy, and, within, by a great altar, 
 executed on the defign of Rubens, the 
 maufoleum of the Spinoza family, and 
 numerous paintings by Grayer, Janfens, 
 and others. 
 
 In the centre of the large court, called 
 h grand Sablon, is a fplendid public 
 fountain, the monument of gratitude, 
 erected by Thomas, Earl of Aylefbury,
 
 BRUSSELS. 31 
 
 1750. It confids of a group of marble 
 figures, one of which reprefents Miner- 
 va, in a reclining pofture, holding in her 
 hand a medallion, exhibiting the por- 
 traits of the emperor Francis I. and of 
 the emprefs queen, Maria Therefa. On 
 the right hand of the goddefs is Fame, 
 and, on her left, the Scheldt, in the 
 femblance of a genius. The Aylefbury 
 arms, with fuitable infcriptions, are cut 
 upon the pedeftal. 
 
 The petit fablon is a fmaller fquare, 
 planted with elms. Near it ftands the 
 foinbre manfion once occupied by the 
 Duke of Alva, whofe dark fpirit feems 
 ftill to haunt its chambers. 
 
 The Steenporte fountain is the moll 
 magnificent in the city, being even en- 
 cumbered with fculptures, and the water 
 tumbling from bafon to bafon, and from 
 four {hells, into as many cifterns, level 
 with the ground. 
 
 III. The
 
 J2 BRUSSELS. 
 
 III. The Grande place ^ in which ie- 
 veral of the principal ftrcets concentrate, 
 is a ftriking oblong fquare, formed of 
 public buildings of unequal height, and 
 disfigured by heavy carvings and gild- 
 ings. Forty-one years were employed 
 in building the town-houfe, the moft 
 ilately edifice of the kind in the Ne- 
 therlands. It is a large and quadrangu- 
 lar pile, from which {hoots a fpire, beau- 
 tifully tapering, to the height of 364 
 feet. A brazen figure of St. Michael, 
 the patron of the place, turns upon a 
 pivot, on the top, at the pleafure of the 
 wind. The apartments, rather fpacious 
 than elegant, are lined with tapeftry, in 
 gilt frames, and contain paintings by 
 fome of the moft celebrated of the Fle- 
 mim fchool. 
 
 IV. The fourth quarter prefents us 
 with the elegant chapel of Notre Dame 
 de bon Secours, in form of a rotunda, 
 
 and
 
 BRUSSELS. 33 
 
 and with an old hofpital founded for 
 pilgrims who vifit Gompoftella. But 
 the fame of both is eclipfed by a little 
 gentleman, y clept manneke piffe* who 
 performs uaceafing duty, zndfans fafon, 
 to the great edification of the good 
 burghers. The French foldiers in 1 747, 
 rudely profaned this diuretic palladium, 
 and filenced the indignant murmurs of 
 the inhabitants : but Lewis XIV. with 
 laudable magnanimity, commanded that 
 the perfon of the darling dwarf fhould 
 be held facred, arrayed in coftly apparel, 
 and dubbed a knight of his own order. 
 The chevalier flill appears in full uni- 
 form upon gala days; and, to fuch a 
 degree has he become the man of the 
 people^ that his removal or mutilation 
 might excite an infurre&ion. Vive done 
 le manneke ! 
 
 V. The church of St. Gertrude and 
 St. Nicholas, (landing upon an iflet, 
 formed by two branches of the Senne, 
 D and
 
 3-| BRUSSELS. 
 
 / 
 
 and deriving a venerable afped from its 
 mouldering Gothic tower, is fuppofed to 
 have been 'founded in the ;,th or 8th 
 century. Several of the convents in 
 this quarter have been fupprefled. 
 
 VI. In St. Catharine's church are two 
 celebrated pieces of de Grayer, the firft, 
 the reception of St. Catharine into hea- 
 ven, where (he takes her place with the 
 Trinity, and is efcorted by St Joieph 
 and a fuite of angels j the fecond, the 
 martyrdom of the four crowned heads. 
 
 The grand Beguinagc, an aflemblage 
 of houfes, furrounded by a wall, might 
 accommodate 700 or 800 Beguines, 
 though they reckon at prefent fcarcely 
 half that number. This Community is 
 peculiar to the Low Countries, yet feems 
 admirably adapted to the fyftem of mo- 
 dern fociety, whether among catholics 
 0K. proteftants, ' Th 1 ^. 1 JBeguirte brings 
 along with her the means of her main- 
 tenanje^ijf^^.po.fre^s.tbem,: may re- 
 10 a
 
 BRUSSELS. 35 
 
 gulate her own menage, or join her 
 ftock to that of a particular company. 
 The fuperior prefides in matters of ge- 
 neral difcipline, and all attend upon the 
 ftated exercifes of devotion: but moft 
 of the day is fpent in the varied and 
 elegant occupations of female hands. 
 Any individual may retire from the/i- 
 terhood, when {he pleafes, mingle again 
 with the world, and enter into the mar- 
 ried ftate. The comparative fewnefs of 
 ladies of eafy virtue in feveral of the 
 Flemifli towns has been afcribed, and, 
 perhaps, juftly, to this falutary inftitu- 
 tion. 
 
 The four large bafons, with their re- 
 fpedive quays, for the reception of fmall 
 craft from the canals, and a large hand- 
 fome cuftom-houfe, like wife belong to 
 the fixth divifion. 
 
 VIL The church of the Auguftines 
 
 is a fabric of unufual elegance, and 
 
 ftored with a variety of paintings. That 
 
 D2 of
 
 36 BRUSSELS. 
 
 of the Dominicans, though no ways 
 handfome, is enriched with choice pro- 
 ductions of the Flemifh pencil, as St. 
 John the evangelift, St. John the Bap- 
 tift, Mary Magdalene, and St. Peter, all 
 by de Grayer, the miraculous cure of the 
 Duke of Cleves, the Virgin, St. Thomas 
 Aquinas, and St. Vincent Ferrier raifmg 
 a child from the dead, by Janflens. 
 
 The theatre, built 1700, according to 
 the plan of Bombarde, an Italian archi- 
 tect, is long, narrow, ill lighted, and 
 crazy; but ferves the purpofes of a play- 
 houfe, opera and ball-room. The boxes 
 are difpofed in five tires, and each is 
 provided with its feparate ftove, which 
 may be heated at the pleafure of the 
 company. 
 
 VIII. The grand parochial and colle- 
 giate church of St. Guduh was founded 
 in the year 1010. As it ftands upon a 
 {helving ground, the afcent on one fide 
 is by a magnificent ftair of thirty-nine 
 v fteps. The two large fquare towers, 
 
 though
 
 BRUSSELS. 37 
 
 though imfinifhed, give it a fingular caft 
 of folemnity, and the variety of work- 
 manmip difplayed throughout the whole 
 is really aftoniftiing. On the pillars 
 which fupport the high vaulted roof, 
 are ftatues of Ghrift and the apoftles : St< 
 Paul, St. Bartholomew, and St. Thomas, 
 fuperior to the reft, are by Jerome Quef- 
 noy. The pulpit, a curious produ&ion 
 of Henry Verbruggen of Antwerp, is 
 placed in the middle of the nave. At 
 the bale are Adam and Eve, big as life, 
 the expelling Angel, and Death in the 
 rear. Our firft parents, though clofely 
 purfued, bear upon their fhoulders the 
 terreftrial globe, the cavity of which is 
 filled by the preacher. From the globe 
 rifes a tree, whofe top extends into a 
 canopy, fuftaining an angel, and Truth, 
 exhibited as a female genius. Above are 
 the Virgin and the infant Jefus, crufh- 
 ing the ferpent's head with a crofs. The 
 fteps on either fide appear as if cut from 
 D 3 trunks
 
 3$ BRUSSELS. 
 
 trunks of trees, and are accompanied by 
 carvings of the oftrich, eagle, peacock, 
 parrot, &c. Befides the main church, 
 there are fixteen private chapels under 
 the fame roof, and rich in the precious 
 metals, or the mummery of relics. That 
 in which the profaned hofts are depofit- 
 ed, is all of marble, and the altar, // is 
 faid, of folid filver. I pretend not to 
 give even a catalogue of the paintings 
 in this auguft temple, but fhall only ob- 
 ferve that the pencils of de Grayer, le 
 Clerc, Rubens, and .Vandyke, have all 
 contributed to the ample collection. 
 
 The public library, confifting of 
 40,000 volumes, and a large aflbrtment 
 of manufcripts, is kept in a feparate 
 building, founded 1625, by order of the 
 Infanta Ifabella. Here, too, the acade- 
 my, of fciences and belles lettres hold 
 their meetings. 
 
 In fpite of the uniform ftraightnefs 
 of the principal alleys, the puny ferpen- 
 
 tine
 
 BRUSSELS. 39 ' 
 
 tine footways, and the many indifferent 
 ftatues, I am willing to believe that noY 
 flranger ever patted half an hour in the 
 park, without being agreeably affected 
 by the tout enfemble, and that rows of 
 trees and fplendid buildings, and groupes 
 of well drefled ladies and gentlemen, 
 moving about in various directions, 
 may, in fonrie meafure, atone for ftiff- 
 nefs of diftribution, and fiience, at.leaft 
 for a time, the cenfures of criticifm. 
 The walks concentrate in a fmall ocla- 
 gonal bafon : and, in one of the corners 
 are a few mops and coffee-houfes, dig- 
 nified with the appellation of VauxhalL 
 
 The large fquare without the park:, / 
 though not ftrictly uniform in all its 
 'parts, extorts the admiration of the moft 
 fuperficial obferver, and is, in my opi- 
 nion, greatly fuperior to any thing that 
 London or New Edinburgh can boaft. 
 Among the magnificent buildings which 
 form this fquare, the hotel of the States 
 D 4 of
 
 40 BRUSSELS. 
 
 of Brabant, planned by Guimard, and 
 which coft 600,000 florins, is the mod 
 confpicuous. The emperor's minifter, 
 the foreign ambafladors, and mod of the, 
 nobility and gentry, inhabit this fplen- 
 did quarter, which, in every fenfe of 
 the expreflion, deferves to be ftyled the 
 court end of the town. 
 
 IX. & X. Of the churches, chapels^ 
 and convents in the ninth quarter, none fc 
 fo far as I recollect, require any parti- 
 cular defcription ; and the tenth, in the 
 heart of the town, confifts chiefly of or- 
 dinary houfes and the public markets. 
 The latter are plentifully fupplied with 
 provifions of all kinds. 
 
 The Gobelins and Sabloniere at Paris 
 fnatched from Bruflels the palm for 
 tapeftries, as Mechlin and Valenciennes 
 have, in a great meafurc, deprived it of 
 the manufacture of fine lace. Though 
 fome of the latter continues to be 
 wrought, efpecially in the environs, the 
 
 thread,
 
 BRUSSELS. 41 
 
 thread, of uncommon finenefs, is the 
 product of Valenciennes and Gambray. 
 The acknowledged fuperiority of Fle- 
 mifh lace may be afcribed to the excel- 
 lent quality of the flax reared in the 
 country, and to the obfervance of a di- 
 vifion of labour; for one invents the 
 patterns, another fafliions the ground, a 
 third, the flowers, &c. 
 
 On reviewing the annals of this illuf- 
 trious city, I find it frequently fuftained 
 very heavy lofles by fire, famine, war, 
 and peftilence, and that between 1/53 
 and 1764, fmart {hocks of earthquakes 
 were not uncommon, but occafioned little 
 harm. In 1020, Herkenbald^ amman 
 of the town, put to death his ne- 
 phew for a rape. On the igth of Jan. 
 1 1 oo, a company of the citizens, who 
 had attended Godfrey of Bouillon to 
 the Holy Land, returned unexpectedly 
 to their wives and families, who, not 
 Jong before, had mourned their death. 
 
 The
 
 42 BRUSSELS. 
 
 The feftivity of the day concluded with 
 each wife carrying her hufband from 
 table to bed In 13^9, Jonathan, a rich 
 Jew of EnghiQn, is laid to have bribed 
 John of Louvain, a convert to the fyna- 
 gogue, to procure him fome conie- 
 crated hofts. The adopted Ifraelite, 
 under cover of night, ahftradcd lixteen 
 froni St. Catharine's chapel, while Jo- 
 nathan, his family, and others of the 
 circumcifion, met purpoiely to vent 
 their imprecations upon the .ftolen god 
 of the Chriftians. Jonathan, however, 
 was foon after ftabbrd by an unknown 
 hand in his own garden ; and his trem- 
 bling widow delivered the infulted hofls 
 to the Jews of Bruflels. When they 
 me^in their fynagogue on Good Friday 
 13/05 they expofed the fpoil on a table, 
 and, after mumbling over it their horrid 
 blafphemies, proceeded to wound the 
 wafers with their knives, when, to their 
 utter confufion, drops of blood announ- 
 ced
 
 BRUSSELS. 43 
 
 ced a miracle. Upon the depofition of 
 a {ingle woman, many of the Jews were 
 apprehended, dragged through the ftreets 
 on carts, put to the torture, and, after- 
 wards, burnt alive upon the higheft 
 tower of the walls ! The flames, we 
 are gravely tolJ, were feen at the diftance 
 of forty-five miles, and two infernal 
 figures danced in the blaze, nor difap- 
 peared till the bodies were entirely con- 
 fumed ! The anniverfary of this at of 
 infamy is ftill celebrated on the firft 
 Sunday after the I3th of July, when 
 the hofts are borne about in folemn pro- 
 ceflion, attended by the clergy en mq/fc, 
 the magiftrates, judges, and even the 
 governors of the province ! The faculty 
 having recommended to Duke Charles 
 (1444) to cut off his hair, moft of his 
 courtiers and the gentlemen of fafhion 
 appeared in wigs, to the no fmall ridi- 
 cule of the public. The celebration of 
 the feftival of the miraculous image of 
 
 the
 
 44 BRUSSELS. 
 
 the virgin was performed 1545, with 
 circumftances of unufual poiup. The 
 great devil, in the form of a huge bull, 
 darting fire from his horns, ulhered in 
 the proceflion of priefts and monks, 
 crofles, banners, and relics of faints. A 
 ftnaller devil fat between the flaming 
 horns, and moved along with his fatanic 
 majefty, who was conducted by a boy, 
 difguifed like a wolf, refting on the 
 fhoulders of a chubby cheeked burgher, 
 or foidifant archangel, arrayed in mining 
 wings and armour. Next followed a 
 cart, bearing an organ, compofed of a 
 feries of twenty narrow wooden cafes, 
 each inclofing a cat, the extremity of 
 whofe tail projected from a fmall aper- 
 ture, attached, by a firing, to its refpec- 
 tive key. The performer was no Han- 
 del, but a very refpectable bear, who 
 executed his part amid repeated burfts 
 of applaufe, while feveral.cf his own 
 fpecies, joined by groups of monkeys,
 
 BRUSSELS. 45 
 
 flags, wolves, &c. capered in unifon to 
 the mufic around a large cage, placed 
 upon a cart, and drawn by horfes. In 
 this cage, two monkeys played upon that 
 delightful inftrument, the bag-pipe, to 
 children habited a la bete y and acting, in 
 their gambols, the fable of Circe and 
 the companions of UlyfTes. From the 
 windows and balconies of the town- 
 houfe, Charles V. Philip II. and all the 
 court, eagerly contemplated this grand 
 fpectacle. Specimens of the fame re- 1 " 
 jined tafte, though on a fmaller fcale, 
 may yet be feen in this and other cities, 
 during carnival ; and, if I rightly recol- 
 lect, Mercier, in his Tableau de Paris, 
 hints at a proceflion, which favoured of 
 fomething elfe than the odor of fan&ity. 
 From July 1556 to the fame month of 
 the following year, Brabant was vifited 
 by drought, cold, and famine. Nine- 
 teen thoufand of the common people, 
 including children, died in Bruflels 
 
 alone :
 
 46 BRUSSELS. 
 
 alone : but an unufual concourfe had 
 
 reforted thither to folicit alms of the 
 
 court. 
 
 A refidence of three months in the 
 capital of Brabant, has fuggefted the 
 following fticlures on the character of 
 the natives. Like their Flemifh bre- 
 thren, they are, in- general, robuft, but 
 difpofed to phlegm. Certainly they are 
 deficient in expreflion of mind, one of 
 the firft conftituents of beauty. Never 
 have I obferved, in any one place, fuch 
 an a.flfemblage of foft, fedate, and infipid 
 countenances. If the ladies poflefs one 
 iota of fentimental grace, they are fure 
 to bury it under a, thick varnifh of 
 rouge. I pretend not to account for 
 the boyifh uniformity of feature pre- 
 valent among the men. Perhaps grofs 
 and copious diet may have its efFed ; 
 the fmoaking of tobacco may deaden 
 the complexion, and injure the nicer 
 traits of phyfiognomy the recurrence 
 
 of
 
 -BRUSSELS. 47 
 
 of heavy mafles of building, of dead 
 flats, ,. of. t lazy fogs, may conipire to 
 mental dulneis,an|d confequent negation 
 of animated looks and geftures. The 
 Marquis D'Argens has obferved, that 
 even Jefuits here want genius, and 
 load their policy with the heavinefe of 
 the climate ; that, with the exception of 
 Vandyke, the Klemiih. painters betray a 
 coarfenefs of manner, which no brilli- 
 ancy pf (.colouring, and no length of 
 acquaintance with the purer models of 
 the Roman and Venetian fchools have 
 ever been able to efface. The children, 
 it has r ^een remarked, are generally 
 handfome; and, though not lively, have 
 a winning air of gentlenefs and : con- 
 ^tentment, the, refult of the lenient modes 
 of .-^lemifh- education. ,, Hiftory has. 
 
 ')OI/Ti JIU 3I;.j'iJj jI3 ' * 
 
 tov^e,yer,, ftamped on,e decided lineament 
 .of tlve political character of the Nether- 
 
 4 fNyji yt:> liil't ^JI/Lll T'J 
 
 landers^ namely.jtheir extreme fenfibi- 
 
 it.of t,hejr ciyif 
 or
 
 48 BRUSSELS. 
 
 or religious inftitutions. The Emperor's 
 propofed innovations have been con- 
 ceived in good intention ; but he fhould 
 not overlook the firm attachment of his 
 fubjeds to thofe chartered immunities 
 which he iworc to prefer ve, nor forget 
 that more real benefit may redound to 
 humanity from the ftricl: obfervance of 
 good faith, than from perfevering in 
 changes, which, however falutary in the 
 eye of the benevolent philofopher, may 
 irritate the untra&able fpirits of a fu- 
 perftitious people. 
 
 Having had little perfonal intercourfe 
 with the Bruxellois, I cannot prefume 
 to eftimate their peculiar moral excel- 
 lencies or defects. Some of my coun- 
 trymen, however, who fhould know 
 them well, allege that the middling 
 ranks are truly polite, the beau mpnde 
 not untrequently rude, and the lower 
 orders habitually boorifti. So little do 
 the extremes of fociety here unite in the 
 
 ordinary
 
 BRUSSELS. 49 
 
 ordinary offices of life, that, in one 
 part of the town, the French language, 
 and, in the other, the Flemifh, is fpoken 
 almoft exclufively. The accidents of 
 birth or external condition determine 
 the circles of aflbciation, amufement, or 
 frivolity, in which every individual ought 
 to move. An aflembly of nobles would 
 be polluted by the prefence of a roturier; 
 and a failure of etiquette might difturb 
 the harmony of a concert. 
 
 The ftated offices of public worfhip 
 are alike obferved by all ; and, if carni- 
 val is brilliant, paffion-week is marked 
 by a general and decided gloom, by 
 deeds of penance, and frequented flirines 
 of faints and martyrs. With the expi- 
 ration of the holy feafon, the flame of 
 devotion or of fuperftition expires- 
 fociety refumes its wonted afpect and, 
 the rigid votary, abfolved from paft fins, 
 again enters on his caicer of worldly 
 indulgence. 
 
 A dif-
 
 JO BRUSSELS. 
 
 A difpofition to lounge feems more 
 or lefs to characterize all ranks. The 
 noblefle loll in their carriages, or faunter 
 in the park, during the day ; and, in the 
 evening, refort to the theatre, the con- 
 cert, or the ball. Court levees and for- 
 mal entertainments, likewife, fill up 
 many a vacant hour. Such as have 
 gardens are partial to the rearing of 
 flowers, and deferve well of the public> 
 fince they convert the ftreet fweepings 
 into a tulip or a rofe. I have often re- 
 marked people fitting .or ftanding non- 
 chalamment at their doors; and, after a 
 walk of two hours, have been furprifed 
 to find them in the fame liftlefs attitude. 
 Want of active employment is extremely 
 favourable to the propagation of vague 
 unfounded reports ; and we all know 
 that the Brit/Jets' gazette has become 
 proverbial. The beggars would labour, 
 were not labour more irkfome than 
 begging. For a fingle farthing, they 
 
 will
 
 BRUSSELS. 51 
 
 ftyle you baron, marquis^ or milord 
 Anglou. Some years ago, their number 
 was little ihortof 2000, notwithstanding 
 the regular annual diftribution of food, 
 raiment, and money, to the amount of 
 227,000 florins, the joint tribute of fifty- 
 three charitable inftitutions. In Brufiels, 
 I firft obferved maftiffs yoked to wheel- 
 barrows and fmall fledges a pitiful fhift 
 to fave trouble, and avoid paying toll. 
 A London porter would fnatch up one 
 of thefe dog-loads with contempt, and 
 deride the flow-paced indolence of the 
 carman. It may feem ridiculous to a 
 ftranger that a refined city of Europe 
 fliould ape, without a blu(h, the cuftoms 
 of Kamtlhatka : but pity and indignation 
 take place of ridicule, when he beholds 
 the poor meagre animal panting for breath, 
 flill patient of injury, and ftill faith- 
 ful to his truft. Horfes, it may be faid, 
 are equally overftrained and treated with 
 wanton feverity. But can one aft of 
 E 2 cruelty
 
 ,-2 BRUSSELS. 
 
 cruelty juftify another? or, who has 
 authorifed us to convert into beafts of 
 burden a creature not deftined to the 
 yoke, the friend, too, and protedor of 
 man, who cheers his folitude, {hares his 
 attachment, and reproves his want of 
 
 fidelity and kindnefs ? 
 uj ixb-' 

 
 *** 53 
 
 -v ,_ f. 4 -j 
 
 CHAP. III. TJ^ 
 
 tROM BRUSSELS TO LAUSANNE. 
 
 ON the loth of April 1787, 1 quitted 
 
 Bruflels in company of . The 
 
 air was calm and ftill as perfuafion, and 
 the notes of the frifldng warblers wel- 
 comed the cheering fun-beams darting 
 through a diftant foreft. Our equipage 
 prefented a lefs amiable picture, namely, 
 a heavy coach, lined with fhag, which 
 had once been yellow, three horfes^ 
 moving with more than Flemifh gravity, 
 and a brawny German coachman, fierce 
 with his cap of hair, his teeth worn to 
 black fpecks by the conftant infertion of 
 a tobacco pipe, and his vifage furly, and 
 disfigured by the fmall-pox. In fpite, 
 E 3 however,
 
 54 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 however, of his rough exterior, we found 
 him extremely attentive, and even of 
 mild difpofitions. 
 
 At half a league from the Pofte de^ 
 Namur, we paflfed Ixelles y a village feated 
 in a pleafant valley. In our progrefs, 
 we had a peep of the abbey of Cambre^ 
 whofe walls have witnefled the aufteri- 
 ties of many a benedidtine nun. CrofTed 
 part of the forefl of Soigne, a remnant 
 of the Sylva Ardttenna mentioned by 
 Caefar. Several paved ways interfect this 
 fhady diftrid:. The fox, wolf, and bear, 
 haunt its recefles, but rarely approach 
 the dwellings of man. The brandbirtz, 
 or ftag of the Ardennes, larger than the 
 ordinary fpecies, of a dark hue, ap- 
 proaching to black, with long hair de- 
 pending from the neck and (boulders, is 
 now of very rare occurrence. Some 
 modern travellers have inadvertently 
 confounded it with the elk. 
 
 Partook
 
 TO LOUS'ANNE. 55 
 
 Partook of a ruftic breakfaft at Val- 
 terlo, where is a poor auberge, and a 
 chapel, in form of a rotunda. 
 
 From this to Genappe the country, lefs 
 flat than that through which we have 
 pafled, ftill abounds in arable and pafture 
 fields, though the foil appears to be con- 
 fiderably impregnated with iron. 
 
 Genappe is a fmall town on the Dyle y 
 feated in a country famous for hunting, 
 and including fix villages within its 
 diftrift. Its caftle is fuppofed to have 
 been the chief refidence of the dukes of 
 Lothier ; and its dependent fiefs are ftill 
 governed by peculiar laws. At the table 
 d'hote, at noon, an old Auftrian officer, 
 of polite manners, was our only mefE- 
 mate. 
 
 Through the village of Sombref, into 
 the county ofNamur. As we approached 
 the town of the fame name, the ground 
 gradually lowered into a plain, or rather 
 narrow bottom. In this bottom, about 
 4 thirty
 
 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 thirty miles fouth-eaft of Bruflels, Na- 
 mur is picture fquely feated, between two 
 hills, at the confluence of the Meufc 
 and Sambrc. By far the largeft portion 
 of the town is fituated on the north 
 bank of the latter. The fteep and 
 rocky height on which the caftle ftands, 
 is almoft inacceflible, except from the 
 river, and, whilft it contributes to the 
 ftrength of the place, enhances the ma- 
 jefty of the landfcape. On its fummit 
 is a deep well (independent of two ex- 
 cellent fprings), fufficient to iupply a 
 garrifon of 4000 men. The ftreets are 
 neat and clean, but feem to be little 
 frequented. The church of the ci-de- 
 vant Jefuits is a fuperb ftru&ure of red 
 and black marble, 140 feet long, 100 
 broad, and 120 in height, with mafly, 
 but well proportioned Doric columns of 
 red and curioufly veined marble. Over 
 the high altar is a fine painting of the 
 Refurre&ion by Reubens. The cathe- 
 dral,
 
 TO LAUSANNE. tf 
 
 dral, dedicated to St. Alban, is a very 
 inferior fabric. The fading light hardly 
 afforded me a glimpfe of one collegiate 
 and four parifh churches, of feveral mo- 
 nafteries and nunneries, of the cour du 
 prince, a handfome fquare, and of the 
 palace, which is ufually occupied by 
 the governor of the province. The en- 
 virons produce coal, lead, black marble, 
 and calamine. 
 
 i itb. The outfkirts of Namur are 
 pleafantly decked with plantations and 
 villas ; and the contiguous hills, though 
 fandy, have their doping fides clad with 
 hops and vines. 
 
 An uneven road of two leagues, lined 
 with aged elms, conducted us to a diC- 
 trict of forbidding downs : yet, fuch is 
 the power of afTociation, that the fight of 
 furze, now a novelty, recalled at once 
 the wilds of Caledonia and the fcenes 
 of youth. I hailed this neglected fhrub 
 as an old friend, and could even have 
 
 become
 
 58 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 become its panegyrift, could have expa- 
 tiated on its winter bloflbms, and its 
 fummer fragrance, its hofpitality to the 
 unfledged choirefters of air, its oppofi- 
 tion to intruding cattle, a*nd to more 
 intruding man. 
 
 Our firft ftage was Emptmer^ a fhabby 
 inn, where we were received by an En-, 
 glim woman, who, in the courfe of fome 
 years, had nearly loft the ufe of her 
 native fpeech, yet ferved us with much 
 alacrity, and treated us on the footing 
 of the rnojl favoured nations. Often I 
 wifhed to alk her what charm could 
 attach her, in the humble capacity of a 
 waiter, to fuch a comfortlefs abode : 
 but as often her interefting looks, in 
 which I could read feeling, blended with 
 a dignified fuppreflion of forrow, checked 
 the impertinent query. The maid of 
 Emptiner may have feen better days, 
 and her ftory might, probably, furnifh 
 the materials of a melting romance. 
 2 But
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 59 
 
 But it is the fate of the traveller to 
 glance at objects of intereft for a mo- 
 ment, and then to bid them adieu per- 
 haps for ever. 
 
 As we crofled a narrow portion of the 
 bifhopric of Liege, the road became 
 more tolerable, but the face of the coun- 
 try was ftill rugged, and acquired addi- 
 tional harihnefs as we entered the pro- 
 vince of Luxembourg. Here the far- 
 mers pare and burn their mofs-grounds, 
 but quickly exhauft them by a crop of 
 rye and another of oats. Are they ig- 
 norant of two important truths that 
 mofs is fpeedily convertible into foil by 
 the application of lime and that it may- 
 be fubftituted for manure upon poor 
 grounds ? As we (lowly journeyed over 
 rough road and dreary waftes, the fpire 
 of Marcbe at length befpoke a town. 
 It is commonly defigned Marcbe en fa- 
 mine an appellation truly chara&eriftic 
 of its hungry afpect. The houfes are 
 
 of
 
 60 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 of mud, or of timber and plafter, and 
 the flrects are a nuifance even to the 
 parting eye. Yet it ftands upon the 
 Marfctte^ is a provoftfhip, with nineteen 
 villages under its jurifdiction, a parifh 
 church, a convent of Carmelite monks, 
 a nunnery of the fame order, and an 
 academy for the education of youth. 
 
 1 2tb. Between this place and Romont^ 
 a paltry village, are fome fcattered fo* 
 refts, the noted receptacles of highway- 
 men. Fortunately, none of them paid 
 us a vifit. 
 
 Having once more meafured an un- 
 welcome extent of bad road and heathy 
 moor, we alighted at Malmaifon^ a fingle 
 inn, and a mock upon the name. With- 
 out, it has the appearance of a paiTable 
 barn within, that of a capacious hogfty. 
 Yet here our evil ftars had doomed us 
 to pafs the night, on beds of antedilu- 
 vian fabric, confecrated by the duft and 
 tatters of age. I beg none may reckon 
 
 thefe
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 6l 
 
 thefe and fimilar ftridures unreafonably 
 cenforious, or prompted by impatience 
 of inconvenience or hardfhips. To the 
 occafional privation of a few external 
 comforts, I can fubmit with a fmile or 
 ironical figh. The fybarite, who al- 
 lowed his repofe to be difturbed by the 
 folding of a rofe-leaf on his couch, for- 
 got, or affected to forget, that many a 
 brave fellow is contented to {lumber on 
 draw, or make the earth his pillow. 
 But, having undertaken to regifter fads, 
 J am folicitous to record them precifely 
 as they occurred. Whoever profecutes 
 the fame route may thus anticipate the 
 nature of his accommodation, whilft 
 the philofopher, from traits apparently 
 trifling, may deduce more than one im- 
 portant inference, relative to manners 
 and the exifting ftate of fociety. 
 
 lyb* Our profpeds began to brighten 
 within a few miles of Attart ; and the 
 appearance of the country continued ta 
 
 improve
 
 6l PROM BRUSSELS 
 
 improve as we approached Arlon. Mo- 
 dern antiquaries fetch the name of this 
 place from ara Lun&, and allege that 
 its original inhabitants worfhipped the 
 moon. But does it not. correfpond to 
 Orolaunum of the ancients ? Like other 
 frontier towns, it has more than once 
 felt the deftructive influence of war, and 
 about two years ago was nearly reduced 
 to, aflies by fome defperadoes in a fit of 
 intoxication. Here was born Jerome 
 Bufleiden^ celebrated for his embafTies 
 and love . of fcience. He founded a 
 college of languages in the univerfity 
 of Louvain, and proved himfelf worthy 
 of fuch a precious monument as the 
 tears of Erafmus. 
 
 The next ftage to the French frontier 
 was (hort and pleafant. As travellers, 
 we were not permitted to lodge in 
 Longwy^ a fmall, neat, and ftrongly 
 fortified town, built by order of Louis. 
 XIV. It has a handfome public fquare, 
 
 and
 
 TO, LAUSANNE* 63. 
 
 acid is ufually garrifoned by a regiment 
 of regulars. Winding down to a de- 
 tached village of the fame name, the, 
 fcene feemed as if changed at once, and 
 the habitudes of a nation ftanaping, their 
 irnpreffions upon every thing ground us. 
 The heavy features of the Flemings, and 
 the dead uniformity of their plains, had 
 completely difappeared. The houfes 
 were more light and airy, the foldiers 
 Ijad rather a genteel than a martial gait, 
 and a degree of levity to which a Scotch', 
 man is with - difficulty reconciled, ani- 
 mated the deportment of individuals. 
 .Our landlady, for convention's fake, or 
 perhaps from curiofity, had frequent re- 
 courfe to the figure of interrogation. 
 John Bull would have deemed her 
 queftions obtrullve,; and a Fleming 
 would have fpared himfelf the trouble 
 of uttering them. 
 
 iqtb. Near the village of Cruln^ cul- 
 ture and population evidently increafe. 
 
 At
 
 64 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 At Fontoy, an ancient and romantic 
 aflemblage of houfes, diftinguifhed by a 
 ruinated caftle, we were allowed to 
 drop out of the carriage, and take our 
 (ration in the paflage of the Auberge, 
 without one word or fign of welcome- 
 Our good voiturin exhorted us to take 
 pofleflion of a room, and led on to the 
 attack. In confequence of his repeated 
 
 i S 
 
 and fpirited remonftrances, we procured 
 a little fire. A lively tourift has re* 
 marked, that, in France, all are polite, 
 except tradefmen and innkeepers, an4 
 that the converfe of the pofition holds 
 in England. Muft the two nations be 
 antipodes in every thing, and never 
 mutually improve by unreferved inter- 
 courfe ? 
 
 In the afternoon I was much delighted 
 with the chequered view of gentle fwells, 
 woods, orchards, vineyards, rich paftures, 
 and fpringing wheat, A foft ihower 
 
 had
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 6j 
 
 had frefliened the face of nature, and all 
 was redolent of fpring. 
 
 As we refted from the travel of the 
 day, the fun {hot his declining rays 
 upon the fpires of Metz. To avoid 
 importunate examinations of our per- 
 fons and luggage, we put up in one of 
 the fuburbs. Of thofe who fauntered be- 
 yond the walls, a confiderable proportion 
 confided of foldiers or Jews. The latter 
 are diftinguiftied by the fhape of their 
 hats, and fubjedted to many invidious 
 reftraints. I have fomewhere read, that 
 when a deputation from their body- 
 waited upon the marechal de la Ferte, 
 to compliment him as governor of the 
 province, he defired they might not be 
 admitted. I cannot endure even the fight 
 ofthem^ added he, a parcel of 'wretches , 
 who betrayed my majler. Underftandin-g, 
 however, that they brought him a pre- 
 fent of 4000 piftoles /"/ is true, conti- 
 nued he, poor creatures, they knew not 
 F 'what
 
 66 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 what they did pray ^ do flew them to the 
 audience chamber. 
 
 i$tb. Rolled along the banks of the 
 Mofelle, on level furface and good road. 
 The marm lark, alauda moxcllana^ called 
 by the natives grande fingjinotte, but 
 more correctly, roujjellne^ or alouette dc 
 maraisy fmaller and more {lender, but of 
 a fweeter note than the common field 
 lark, is found in this part of Lorraine, 
 as in Alface and Poland. About three 
 miles from Metz, we croffed the river in 
 a flat bottomed boat. The morning 
 was calm and delightful, the ftream glided 
 fmoothly along, the peafants refted from, 
 their toils, and every field was glad with 
 renovated verdure. On our right, run 
 a range of high grounds, ftudded with 
 decayed caftles, villages, and woods 
 whilft, on our left, the furface ftretched 
 in champaign cultivation, or rofe, with 
 eafy acclivity, from the river. 
 
 Joui
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 67 
 
 Jcut aux arches, a draggling village* 
 derives its name from the Roman aque- 
 duct, which conveyed the waters of the 
 Gorze acrofs the Mofelle, into the baths 
 and naumachia of Metz. Of two hun- 
 dred arches, done in rough work, the 
 traveller now contemplates only eight 
 entire, and feveral ftill lofty and ma- 
 jeftic in their ruins. The vulgar afcribe 
 this and other bridges to the {kill of the 
 old gentleman in black^ forgetting that 
 he never performed one material fervice 
 to the human race. There is reafon to 
 believe that the Romans were nice in 
 their choice of water, and greatly im- 
 proved that which they feleded for the 
 ufe of cities by conveying it, frequently 
 for feveral miles, along a bed of fand, 
 on which it might acquire foftnels, and 
 depofit its impurities. 
 
 The Mofelle, here very broad, flows 
 
 through a country abounding in villages 
 
 and vineyards. Some attention has 
 
 F 2 even
 
 68 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 even been beftowed upon the culture of 
 the potatoe : for experience, the fafeft 
 of all inftructors, will conquer at laft the 
 combined influence of vulgar and learned 
 prejudice. 
 
 About raid-day we arrived at Pont-a- 
 Mouffon, a town of middling fize upon 
 the Mofelle, and guarded by fome flight 
 fortifications. Many of the houfes are 
 built upon piazzas, the principal ftreets 
 concentrate in a fpacious fquare, and the 
 whole has a light and pleafant appear- 
 ance. The univerfity, founded by 
 Charles III. Duke of Lorraine, has 
 confiderably declined : but there is a 
 good military academy for the fons of 
 decayed noblefle. 
 
 Some of my countrymen might not 
 pardon me, if I quitted this place with- 
 out taking notice of John- Barclay, fon 
 to the celebrated William Barclay of 
 Aberdeen. The Jefuits, entrufted with 
 John's education, admired his talents, 
 
 and
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 69 
 
 and pra&ifed every artifice to decoy him. 
 into their fociety. His poem on the 
 coronation, and the firft part of his 
 Euphormion, recommended him to 
 James VI. to whom he was prefented 
 1 60 1. The fame of his other pieces is 
 eclipfed by that of his Argents. 
 
 Scarcely had we got beyond the walls 
 of his native town, than I thought of 
 John and his Argenis no more. All 
 tended to awaken thofe pleafurable 
 emotions, which the beauties of nature 
 and the ceafelefs mercies of heaven in- 
 Ipire in every mind that is not dead to 
 feeling. The extended tracts through 
 which our route was directed, adorned 
 by the placid windings of the river, 
 the lively green of diftant hills, and 
 groves of fruit-trees, difplayed a profu- 
 fion of bloflbms, and wafted a richnefs 
 of perfume, which no powers of paint- 
 ing or of language can convey to the 
 fancy. No trace remained of winter 
 F 3 ihe
 
 70 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 the fky was unclouded the air tempe- 
 rate and ferene. The meaneft peafant 
 feemed to partake the bleflings of re- 
 turning fpring. Too many fymptoms 
 I certainly could perceive of poverty 
 and depreffion few, I think, of fretful- 
 nefs or difcontent. Refined egotifm, I 
 know it well, will urge, and with plau- 
 fibility, too, that where no difcontent 
 exifts, no amelioration of condition 
 fhould be propofed. But refined bene- 
 volence will deem thofe of our fellow 
 creatures who fubmit to hardftiips with- 
 out repining, well entitled to every at- 
 tainable comfort, and will feek its pureft 
 gratifications in the diffufion of happi- 
 nefs. The female villagers tript lightly 
 on the grafs, in a circular dance : the 
 young men feemed to prefer parties at 
 nine pins a feparation not quite confo- 
 nant to our ideas of French gallantry. 
 
 Had the river clofe upon our left. 
 Beyond it, the country rofe in gentle 
 
 elevations
 
 "TO LAUSANNE.. 71 
 
 elevations. Again crofted it near its 
 junction with the Meurthc^ where it 
 fweeps weftward in the direction of 
 Toul. At length came down upon the 
 plain of Nancy a plain rich in corn 
 and wine, watered by the mazy Meurthe, 
 and fkirted behind by an extent of 
 foreft. 
 
 In refpect of external regularity and 
 elegance, I have feen no city which, as 
 a whole, can rival Nancy. The place 
 royale, diverging flreets, and various 
 public and private buildings, are well 
 worthy of a detailed defcription. But 
 my time barely allowed a hafty glance ; 
 and I came away more imprefied with 
 the general effect than with the beauties 
 of particular parts. The houfes are 
 furnifhed with tin eave troughs, the 
 roofs confiderably flattened, and the 
 ftreets lighted a VAnglaife* 
 
 The memory of the good and vene- 
 rable Staniflaus, who fo much benefited 
 F 4 and
 
 J2 *ROM BRUSSELS 
 
 and embellifhed the place, is ftill pre- 
 ferved with refpeft and gratitude. He 
 founded the medical college, and infti- 
 tuted the fociety of fciences and belles 
 lettres. To the laft is attached a library 
 of 10,000 volumes, enriched with joo 
 ancient medals. 
 
 The company in the dining room en- 
 countered two liberal courfes with a 
 heroifm truly marvellous. A French- 
 man would fooner mifs his dinner than 
 his fupper, is partial to ftewed and high 
 feafoned meats, to poultry and game, 
 to pafte and fricaflees devours much 
 vegetable, but more animal, food and 
 reckons garlic a falutary condiment. 
 
 Duval relates that he faw in the pri- 
 fon of Nancy friar John, a hermit of 
 Lorraine, who, in imitation of Jefus 
 Chrift, abftained from aliment during 
 forty days, or rather from folid food, 
 for it is allowed that he drank water. 
 In one of his paroxyfms of inianity, he 
 
 killed
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 73 
 
 killed a man whom he deemed impor- 
 tunate, and had his fentence of death 
 commuted into perpetual confinement. 
 Being feized with an infatiable curio- 
 fity to examine the internal ftru&ure of 
 his body, and having made a large in- 
 cifion with a piece of glafs, he was pro- 
 ceeding to contemplate the vifcera with 
 great compofure, when a furgeon luckily 
 interfered, and, with fome difficulty^ 
 fucceeded in healing his wounds. 
 
 The two Adams, efpecially Nicholas, 
 excelled in fculpture: the name of the en- 
 graver Callot ftill lives in Callotine^ while 
 the fame of Maimbourg fleeps in fix- 
 teen quartos. 
 
 i6/. The country was, perhaps, in 
 itfelf, not lefs inviting than it was yefter- 
 day : but a continued rain compelled us 
 to view it through a glafs darkly. The 
 villages through which we pafled were, 
 in the true French ftyle, richly endowed 
 with the materials of good hufbandry. 
 
 At
 
 74 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 At one of them called Rav'tlle, we ftopt 
 to dine. In the afternoon the heavens 
 refumed their ferenity, and we enjoyed 
 a pleafant run along the Mofelle, having 
 floping vineyards on the right, and large 
 trads of corn and pafture on our left* 
 At fix o'clock we refted at Cbarmes, a 
 fmall neat town, fituated in the heart 
 of extenfive meadows, about twenty 
 miles from Nancy. The inhabitants 
 boaft of their bridge ; though neither 
 that nor any thing about the place ftruck 
 us as at all remarkable. The inn is 
 rather above mediocrity, and we were 
 flill regaled with the Mofelle trout, 
 reckoned the moft delicious in the 
 world. 
 
 I'jtb. A dull and thinly peopled 
 country. Stopped two hours at Epinal, 
 a fmall gloomy town, with a paper ma- 
 nufadory. The Mofelle, on which it 
 ftands, is here rapid, and feparates into 
 two branches. Befides other religions 
 
 houfes,
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 75 
 
 houfes, Epinal has a noted abbey of 
 canoneflfes, with an yearly revenue of 
 12000 livres. The nuns are all noble, 
 and wear a broad blue ribband, with a 
 golden crofs, furmounted with eight 
 points, and reprefenting the Virgin and 
 St. Goeri ! 
 
 As we began to afcend a wild and 
 unpeopled, but pidurefque, region of hill 
 and rock, fome fcattered caftles, haften- 
 ing to utter decay, pointed to the faft- 
 nefles of feudal warfare. The Voges, 
 (Vofagus, or Vogefus mons) that chain of 
 hills upon which we had juft entered, 
 forms the greateft part of the fouthern 
 frontier of Lorraine, and is terminated 
 by Alface on the eaft. Donnon, the 
 higheft fummit, is four hundred toifes 
 above the level of the fea. The whole 
 ridge ftretches from Bafil to Treves, an 
 extent of fifty leagues, and gives rife to 
 the Meufe> Saone^ III, Sar, Meurtbe^ 
 &c. Though the foil be, in general, 
 
 fandy
 
 76 FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 fandy and floney, the paftures. are rich 
 and uncommonly productive, owing, it 
 is fuppofed, to the facilities of irrigation. 
 In default of pafture, the fides of this 
 chain are covered with fir, oak, or beech : 
 but the pines which crowned the fum- 
 mits, and attracted the admiration of 
 the ancients, have been gradually def- 
 troyed, to the diminution of rural 
 beauty, and of the countlefs ftreamlets 
 which iffued from the elevated forefts, 
 Vacclnlum myrtlllus, called by the natives 
 briabeUe, is found in fuch abundance, 
 that its berries conftitute an article of 
 food during greateft part of the year. 
 The woodcock fummers on the high'eft 
 and moft abrupt cliffs, and defcends, in 
 winter, into the thickets and plains. 
 The water-owzel, (hy, filent, and folitary, 
 haunts the loftieft recefles, and gravely 
 flalks along the banks of dreams, or 
 even under water, in queft of infects. 
 The peafants fubfifl chiefly on the pro- 
 duce
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 77 
 
 duce of the dairy, and a coarfe bread of 
 barley and oats, feldom tailing butcher 
 meat or wine. Their huts, adjecled to 
 eminences, or, funk in the earth, are 
 damp and comfortlefs. A thin partition 
 feparates the cattle from the family, and 
 the dung is heaped up before the door. 
 Temperance, exercife, and frequent ex- 
 pofure to the open air can alone coun- 
 teract fuch flovenly habits of life. The 
 ftrong fpirit diftilled from the cherry 
 and juniper is fold out of the country. 
 The men are, for the moil part, ftout, 
 and fuffer no reftraint from their drefs> 
 which is loofe and wide. Environed 
 with a bracing air, with grand and ex- 
 tended profpects, remote from the com- 
 plications and corruptions of crowded 
 focieties, limiting his wants and attach- 
 ments, the moral, like the phyfical, 
 frame of the mountaineer, aflumes a 
 tone of vigour and independence ; fen- 
 timcnts and affections are exprefled as 
 7 they
 
 7# FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 they arife ; a native franknefs, an un- 
 affeded hofpitality, attracts the fleps of 
 the wanderer, as he overlooks and pities 
 the cities of the plain. From tranfient 
 hints and obfervation, it was not diffi- 
 cult to learn, that the Vogians are of 
 fimple manners, impatient of reftraint, 
 kind to ftrangers, and fondly rivetted to 
 the mountains of their fathers. 
 
 In the courfe of this ftroll, we pafled 
 Sertigny^ a village of high and romantic il- 
 tuation, within a few miles of Plombieres. 
 This town and its fmoke, feen at the bot- 
 tom of a noble and deep amphitheatre, 
 give a fmgular and pleafant relief to the 
 gloom and folitude which furroundthem. 
 Plombieres {Plumbaria) has given 
 rife to the conjecture that lead was once 
 worked in the neighbourhood, though 
 others prefer the Celtic compound ploit 
 (warm) and ber, (water), and aflert that 
 no metals have been found iri the diftridTr. 
 The valley is here fo ftraitened as to 
 
 admit
 
 TO LAUSANNE. 79 
 
 admit only one ftreet, confiding of 
 eighty or ninety houfes, of a neat and 
 clean appearance. They are watered by 
 the little river Eatigrogne, which receives 
 the tepid ftreams, and is reckoned ex- 
 cellent for wafhing and bleaching. 
 
 The cold bath is faid to contain 
 petrol, fulphate of iron, common fait, 
 magnefia, and a fmall proportion of 
 foda. The fource never freezes in win- 
 ter, but frequently emits a vifible vapour 
 in that feafon. The warm fpring is 
 fulphureous, and boils an egg in a few 
 minutes ; but, when put on the fire, 
 does not boil fooner than common 
 water. Henry II. Duke of Lorraine, in 
 1614, found it of fmgular benefit in 
 reftoring the tone of the ftomach, and 
 gave it vogue. But the Romans were 
 not unacquainted with the virtues of 
 thefe- mineral ftreams, which are re- 
 commended for ulcers, cholics, inveterate 
 fevers, rheumatifm, inflammations, white 
 
 fwellings,
 
 So FROM BRUSSELS 
 
 fwellings, &c. The fiffures of the 
 granite rock through which they pafs, 
 obferves the Abbe Bexon, are lined and 
 filled with a very white clay, in which 
 may ftill be found grains of quartz, and 
 which is, in fact, quartzy matter, re- 
 folved by water, imparting a foftnefs 
 and deterfive quality, improperly deno- 
 minated foapy. Fufed by a moderate 
 heat, it yields a fine glafs of a milk 
 white colour, and is real petunze, which 
 may enter into the comppfition of prime 
 porcelain. Plombieres has a wire and 
 paper manufactory, and a convent of 
 capuchins, and is reckoned exactly 
 fixteen leagues from Nancy, Bafil, and 
 Bcfah9on. 
 
 i8tb. We were this morning fur- 
 prifed by cold and froft, as in the 
 middle of December. The horfes 
 dragged flowly up hill, unwilling to 
 quit the warm retreat of the watering- 
 place. One of the travellers, too, would 
 
 willingly
 
 BRUSSELS. 8l 
 
 willingly have lingered there for a few 
 days, and collected obfervations and 
 fpecimens of the natural productions- 
 but, fated to pafs on, without turning 
 to the right or to the left, he can barely 
 catch at one or two detached facts. 
 Marble, of a blood coloured ground, 
 with white fpots, apparently cryftallized, 
 is of common occurrence. The ground* 
 in feveral places, founds hollow, and 
 has fometimes burft and difcharged great 
 quantities of water, to the annoyance 
 of the inhabitants. The expanfion of 
 the fame element in deeper cavities is, 
 probably, the caufe of repeated, but 
 flight fhocks of earthquakes in this hilly 
 diftrict. 
 
 Entered the province of Francbe 
 Comfe, the territory of the ancient Se- 
 quani^ but no longer the ager optimns 
 totius Gallic. At Fougerolle rE$life, a 
 long village, with a long church, and a 
 long name, we were accofted by one 
 G of
 
 82 BRUSSELS. 
 
 of thofe nuifances, a petty buralift, who 
 affected extreme impatience to fearch 
 our trunks. A twelve fol piece corrupt- 
 ed his fenfe of duty to his king and 
 country, and fpared us the trouble of 
 detention. 
 
 Halted at Luxueil, or Luxeu, Lux- 
 ovium of the Romans, another watering 
 place, twelve miles from Plombieres, and 
 rifing in reputation. The circuit of the 
 town, in early times, extended a great 
 way round, and included the baths. 
 Many of the houfes are large and fur- 
 nifhed with good wine cellars, but all 
 have an old and fombre afpect.-* The 
 four warm baths are unctuous even to the 
 touch, and poffefs fimilar properties ; 
 another, tepid and infipid, depofits a 
 dark greyifti mud, and emits an odour 
 of fulphur and iron, like thofe of Plom- 
 bieres ; one of the cold fources is an 
 ordinary chalybeate, and the other, unc- 
 tuous, and flightly tinged with iron, is 
 
 celebrated
 
 BRUSSELS. 83 
 
 celebrated for mitigating the acrid habits 
 of the blood and lymph, and in 1719 
 effectually removed an epidemic dyfen- 
 tery. The hot waters are prefcribed as 
 a fpecific in moft cutaneous diftempers. 
 An infcription, accidentally difcovered 
 1753, bears that thefe baths were re- 
 paired by Labienus, at the command of 
 Julius Casfar. 
 
 The Abbey of Benedictines of Lux- 
 ueil was founded by Columbanus, the 
 Irifh monk. The prefent abbot draws 
 23,000 livres as his portion of the rents. 
 
 Proceeded by two old fortreffes and 
 fome pleafantly fituated country-feats 
 to VefouL The latter is a decent town, 
 with 2000 inhabitants, fituated near the 
 Durgeon, at the foot of a hill, called la 
 motte de VefouL This hill rifes in a co- 
 nical form, from a bafe half a league in 
 circumference, has its fides covered with 
 corn, vines, and pafture, and is not 
 eafily fcaled in lefs than an hour. Be- 
 G 2 fides
 
 84 BRUSSELS. 
 
 fides a chapter, Vefoul has a collegiate 
 church, a convent of capuchins, and 
 two nunneries. The canons fucceed to 
 the eftate and moveables of every perfon 
 in the village of Chataumouftier^ who dies 
 without an heir in the direct line of de- 
 fcent ! 
 
 Supped in company of a pleafant par- 
 ty. Two Genevans took me by the 
 hand, as they retired, and wifhed good 
 night with a franknefs far more engaging 
 than the moft ftudied graces of a Chefter- 
 field. Sincerely did I regret their early 
 departure, but their plan of travelling 
 allowed only a few hours fleep, and they 
 had drolled fome miles to examine the 
 Frais pints, and other natural curiofities. 
 The former is a large funnel, (ixty feet in 
 diameter at top. It is feldom quite dry, 
 but the quantity of water varies very 
 much, according to the ftate of the wea- 
 ther, and fometimes fpouting from a 
 depth of thirty or forty feet, overflows 
 
 an
 
 BRUSSELS. 85 
 
 an extent of meadow ground. There 
 are feveral other excavations in the 
 vicinity. 
 
 igtb. My Genevans had taken the 
 wings of the morning. Rain and dul- 
 nefs till noon. 
 
 From Rioz, a pitiful village, we pur- 
 fued our route through a varying furface, 
 and fcenes of the rude fublime. The 
 deep valley, formed by the little river 
 Orignon^ has a peculiar complexion of 
 fequeftration and fweetnefs. It is im- 
 poffible to view fuch landfcapes without 
 emotion, but it requires a hand, at 
 once bold and delicate, to pourtray them. 
 Meanwhile Bcfanfon, Vefontio or Ve- 
 Jbntlum^ civitas et maxima Sequanorum^ 
 maximum et munitijjimum oppidum^ &c. 
 of the Romans, met our eyes. The 
 faint veftiges of an amphitheatre, aque- 
 duct, and temple, the rock cut by 
 Casfar, and various antiquities, fpeak of 
 its early fplendor. It enjoyed the benefit 
 G 3 of
 
 86 BRUSSELS. 
 
 of a public fchool for the languages and 
 rhetoric. Thefacrafepta of the Romans 
 correfpondedto the quarter at prefent cal- 
 led Les Clofes, the Campus Martins, to the 
 Champ de Mars, Char it urn mons, to Char- 
 monfj Campus Carnae, to Champ Carne, &c. 
 The hurried paflenger may not ftop to 
 trace the origin, profperity, and mis- 
 fortunes of an individual city, but may 
 indulge a moment of veneration, or 
 cherifh a melancholy emotion, when 
 chance prefents to his view the grey me- 
 morials of ages that are gone. . . . 
 
 The Doux or Daubs, a confiderable 
 river, divides Befan9on into the upper 
 and lower town : but of the former, 
 little remains except the caftle. The 
 inhabitants are faid to amount to 25,000. 
 Of the public buildings, the new theatre, 
 the town houfe, with its four wings, the 
 Intendant's hotel, the hofpital, and the 
 fountains are moft admired. The high 
 and romantic hills, which at once fkreen 
 
 and
 
 BRUSSELS. 87 
 
 and adorn the town, would produce a fine 
 effect in landfcape painting. One of 
 them, beautifully wooded, is diftin- 
 guifhed by a monument, to perpetuate 
 the narrow efcape of Lewis XIV, whofe 
 horfe fell under him on the brink of the 
 precipice. In Befan9on are two chap- 
 ters, a collegiate church, four abbeys, 
 eleven convents, and a feminary for 
 ftudents in theology. Among its men 
 of letters are reckoned the Chifflets^ Car- 
 dinal Granvelle, and Jean Baptifte Bullet, 
 the learned and laborious compiler of 
 the Celtic dic'lion'ary. 
 
 The adventures of the Abbe de Vatte- 
 uille are fo fingular, and fo little known, 
 that I am tempted to trace their outline. 
 He was brother to Baron de Vatteville, . 
 once ambaflador at the court of London. 
 The abbe, when colonel of the regiment 
 of Burgundy, in the fervice of Philip IV. 
 of Spain, evinced his courage by repeated 
 of eclat. Chagrined, however, 
 G 4 with
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 with neglect of promotion, he refigned 
 his com million, and retired into the con- 
 vent of Carthufians, at Befan^on. As 
 his reftlefs fpirit could ill brook the gloom 
 and filence of a cloifter, he appointed 
 a confidential friend to wait for him, 
 withahorfe, without the garden wall, and 
 fccretly procured of his relations fome 
 money, a riding drefs, a cafe of piftols, 
 and a fword. Thus equipped, he ftole, 
 during the .night, from his cell, into 
 the garden, {tabbed the prior, whom 
 he met on his way, fcrambled over 
 the wall, and rode off at full fpeed. 
 When hit> horfe could advance no fur- 
 ther, from fatigue and hunger, he alighted 
 at an cbfcure inn, ordered all the meat 
 in the Louie to be got ready, and fat 
 down to dinner with the utrnoft com- 
 poiure. A traveller, who ai rived a few 
 minutes later, politely requefted that he 
 might be allowed to fhare with him. 
 Vatteville rudely refufed, alleging that 
 
 there
 
 BRUSSELS. 89 
 
 there was little enough for himfelf, and, 
 impatient of contradidion, killed the gen- 
 tleman on the fpot with one piftol, and 
 prefenting the other to the landlady and 
 waiter, fwore he would blow out their 
 brains, if they once dared to interrupt 
 his repaft. Having thus efcaped with 
 impunity, he encountered various for- 
 tunes, landed, at length, in Turkey, af- 
 fumed the turban, received a commiflion 
 in the army, was raifed to the rank of 
 baftiaw, and nominated to the govern- 
 ment of certain diftridts of the Morea. 
 But longing to revifit his native country, 
 he entered into a fecret correfpondence 
 with the Venetians, then at war with 
 the Turks, obtained abfolution, along 
 with a confiderable church living in 
 Franche Comte, delivered the towns and 
 forts under his command into the hands 
 of the enemy ; and was actually pre- 
 fented by Lewis XIV to the vacant fee 
 of Belanfon. The Pope, however, 
 
 who
 
 90 BRUSSELS. 
 
 who had granted abfolution, refufed the 
 bull, and Vatteville was obliged to con- 
 tent himfelf with the firft deanery, and 
 two rich abbeys. In the midft of his 
 magnificence he fometimes deigned to 
 call on his old friends, the Carthufians, 
 and, at laft, expired quietly in his bed, 
 at the advanced age of ninety ! A ro- 
 turier, guilty of one half of his enor- 
 mities, would have been broken upon 
 the wheel, 
 
 2O/. Moved up ' a high and fteep 
 hill. Though the country appeared little 
 cultivated, and thin of inhabitants, fome 
 roaming flocks and herds agreeably en- 
 livened the fhifting profpects. Break- 
 faded at r Hdpitpl de Qrayd-bois y a forry 
 village, with a poor inn, The miftrefs > 
 old and infirm, craved, in the moft pi- 
 teous tone, fomething pour V amour de 
 Dieu. Her claim reminded me of the 
 old woman whom friar Yves, envoy of 
 St. Lewis, encountered in the ftreets of 
 
 Damaf*
 
 BRUSSELS. 91 
 
 Damafcus, holding, in her right hand, 
 a platter of fire, and, in her left, a flafk 
 of water. What mean you, fatd the am- 
 baflador, by tbefe oppojite fymbols ? With 
 the fire, anfwered the picturefque mo- 
 ralift, 1 'would confume Paradife, and with, 
 the water, extinguifh the flames of HelL 
 The friar, Hill more aftoniihed, requefted 
 {he would explain the enigma. / would 
 have every man, {he replied, follow vir- 
 tue from pure love to the Deity, regard" 
 lefs of the hope of reward, or the fear of 
 punifhment. Amid the jarring fyftems 
 of ancient and modern fages, how amia- 
 ble and fublime is the philofophy of an 
 unlettered female, whofe very name 
 has not defcended to pofterity. Crufa- 
 (ders of every denomination, bafe inqui- 
 fitors, who rack the fibres of your fel- 
 low mortals, and bigotted or interefted 
 perfecutors, who would torture the ho- 
 neft feelings of the upright and the tole- 
 rant think of the woman of Damafcus, 
 
 find be covered with confufion ! 
 
 Heavy
 
 92 BRUSSELS. 
 
 Heavy hail and fnow precluded all 
 diftant views. The mountains, I could 
 no longer term them bills, prefented a 
 whitened furface, curioufly contrafted 
 with the gloom of tall and impending 
 firs. We halted at a fingle inn, encom- 
 pafled with dreary fcenery, and were, 
 during the remainder of this day's ftage, 
 enveloped in drifting fnow. Misfor- 
 tunes, as the faying is, come not fingle 
 our good coachman, by hard driving, 
 dropt his pocket-book, which he never 
 recovered, and being fuddenly attacked 
 with a violent fit of ficknefs, I fainted, 
 as we arrived at Pontarller. An hour's 
 reft completely reftored me, and I am 
 
 . 
 
 not fure but the agreeable fenfations of 
 returning health counterbalanced thofe 
 of fuffering. 
 
 Pontarller^ the Ariarlca of Antoninus, 
 Allolica of Peutinger, and, in low Latin, 
 Arecium, Pens Arleti^ Pons Elaverii, &c. 
 (lands upon the Doux, near Mont Joux, 
 
 part
 
 BRUSSELS. 93 
 
 part of the Jura ridge, and one of the 
 moft commodious pafles into Switzer- 
 land, 'ft has 2000 inhabitants, but no 
 manufactures of any note. 
 
 2 ifl. The Jura mountains, chequered 
 with fnow and fable pines, rofe full in 
 view, under a cloudlefs fky. In thofe 
 elevated regions, the fcattered huts are 
 moftly conftru&ed of timber, and excite 
 the pity of the traveller, whilft the rug- 
 ged character of the country, and the 
 pride of luxuriant firs, projecting their 
 dark fhades, infpire emotions of melan- 
 choly grandeur. 
 
 Jougne, our firft ftage, a romantic af- 
 femblage of hamlets, embofomed in 
 mountains, is diftinguifhed by a venera- 
 ble caftle, perched on the point of a 
 rock, with one of the towers ftill habit- 
 able. They told us it was the property 
 of the Due de la Rocbefattcault, who 
 poflefles feveral lord (hips in this part of 
 Franche Comte and many may he pof- 
 
 fefs,
 
 94 BRUSSELS. 
 
 fefs, if his character correfpond to pub- 
 lic report. 
 
 The narrownefs of the pafs, cut by 
 Csefar, when lie led his troops into Ger- 
 many, the Doux winding beneath, and 
 its accompanying fcenery of wood and 
 rock, all confpired to form an enchanting 
 landfcape. The inhabitants of the val- 
 ley are ufually occupied in cutting gra- 
 nites, cryftals, and marcafites, for the 
 jewellers of Geneva and Neuchatel. 
 
 I could not regret our t tardy progrefs 
 along the uneven route of Jura, a ridge 
 defigned by Cxfar, motis altijjimus Inter 
 Sequanos et Helvetia*, and ftretching from 
 Bafil to fome leagues beyond Geneva. 
 Though nearly parallel with the Alps, 
 its bafe is moftly calcareous. Its primi- 
 tive range fronts Switzerland, and is 
 compofed of a hard rock, of a fine 
 grain, ufually inclining at an angle of 
 lefs than forty-five degrees ; but, oc- 
 cafionally, parallel with the horizon* 
 6 Its
 
 BRUSSELS. 95 
 
 Its line of direction interfe&s two great 
 plains, of which one feparates it from 
 the Alps, and the other from the moun- 
 tains of Burgundy and the Voges. The 
 fecondary range, formed of humbler 
 elevations, gradually fubfides into the 
 plains of the Rhine and Saone. Nature, 
 ever delicate in her gradations, has, pro- 
 bably, adjufted a fcale of harmony in 
 the comparative heights of mountains. 
 Thus the higheft fummits of Jura are 
 lower, by forty or fifty toifes, than the 
 lowed of the Alps, and nearly as much 
 elevated above the higheft peaks of the 
 Voges. Though the general ftrudure 
 of Jura be calcareous, the fouthern fur- 
 face is ftrewed with fragments of vitri- 
 fiable matters, fuch as are found in 
 maffes among the Alps. Gravel and fea 
 {hells occur at considerable elevations, 
 and even at the tops of the ridge. The 
 latter bear herbage ; and the fnow diC- 
 appears early in fummer. The whole, 
 
 ieen
 
 g6 BRUSSELS. 
 
 feen from a diftance, refembles an ex- 
 tended mound, or wall of an uniform 
 height : but, on a nearer approach, the 
 irregularities of the group open upon 
 the perfpective, and, blending with wood 
 and verdure, compofe a pidture nobly 
 varied, and fmgularly ftriking. 
 
 Whether from a partiality to freedom's 
 air, or from fomething in the climate 
 congenial with my frame, or, from the 
 mere play of imagination, I felt, as it 
 were, an expanfion of animal fpirits, 
 the gale feemed more pure and fweet, 
 and the fun-beams more enlivening, 
 when, at half a league from Jougne, we 
 entered the territory of the Swifs. 
 
 Gradually, and in mazy rural beauties, 
 our way led us down from towering 
 rocks and fnow, to the more amiable 
 profpects of blooming fpring. 
 
 Through Clees or le Cles, a townlet in 
 the bailliage of Yverdun, upon the little 
 river Orbe, noted for its fubterraneous 
 
 paf-
 
 BRUSSELS. 97 
 
 paflages. The caflle, difmantled by the 
 Swifs, 1475, is no unfightly ruin. 
 
 Stopped at La Sarra y another fmall but 
 clean town of one ftreet, formerly, it is 
 faid, warned by the V.enoge, which now 
 flows at fome diftance to the weft. 
 Hard by the town is a large chateau, 
 founded on a rock of baftard marble. 
 Quarries of the latter and of hard ftone 
 abound in the neighbourhood ; and Sarra 
 is faid to be a Celtic term denoting 
 ilone. 
 
 We now entered upon Jorat^ a fubor- 
 dinate ridge, which, commencing above 
 Vevey, runs confiderably to the north. 
 4ts higheft elevation above the lake of 
 Geneva is 277 toifes, and its bafe a hard 
 free ftone, fomewhat inclining to a blu- 
 ifh colour. 
 
 Though the remainder of the road 
 was far from fmooth, every turn of the 
 wheels afforded fome interefting variega- 
 tion of profpect, while the paftoral and 
 H airy
 
 98 BRUSSELS, 
 
 airy villages of Cbavornay^ Bavois, Cbc- 
 Jeau t &c. intimated population and com- 
 fort. 
 
 At length, the Alps of age, hiding, 
 without a metaphor, their heads in the 
 clouds, and the magnificent expanfe of 
 the Leman, burft, like enchantment, 
 upon the fight. Laufanne received us at 
 the clofe of day and once more we 
 mingled in domeftic fociety.
 
 I '99 ) 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 (Lanfonium^ Laufone^ &c,) 
 {lands upon three hills or prominences 
 of the Jorat, a mile and a half from the 
 lake of Geneva, and four hundred feet 
 above its level. This fituation, fum% 
 ciently incommodious, and removed at 
 leaft an Englifli mile from the ancient 
 Laufonium, had been reprefented as the 
 fcene of miracles; and, as the church 
 fprung from the legend, the town fprung 
 from the church. The cathedral, indeed, 
 and the profpects which it commands, 
 may well be termed a Jlanding miracle. 
 Conceive a venerable pile of Gothic ar- 
 chitecture, with a fquare tower of admi- 
 rable fymmetry, its glittering pinnacles, 
 H 2 tierc
 
 100 LAUSANNE. 
 
 tieres of elegant arches, and high vaulted 
 roof within, auguft by its fimplicity, 
 difplaying a fuperb choir, and 272 ele- 
 gant pillars, and thrilling with the folemn 
 peal of the organ, or with the voices of 
 an honeft people, preferring their orifons 
 to the Father of Goodnefs ! From the 
 terrace on which this cathedral is feated, 
 you may patiently furvey the bold and 
 elevated contours of the Alps, with their 
 hoary and rocky peaks reflected in the 
 lake, Mont Blanc domineering in the 
 diftance, the wavy luxuriance of fhelving 
 fhores, and the frequent and comfortable 
 dwellings of a contented peafantry. * 
 The tombs of feveral of the bifhops in 
 the choir have been much defaced. 
 That of Duke Charles of Schomberg, 
 killed in the battle of Marfaille, in Pied- 
 mont, is remarked for its fimplicity.- 
 On the fouth of the choir is the rofe-ivin- 
 dow y noted for its fmgular adventure. 
 About the middle of laft century, it was 
 
 rent,
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 tent, With part 'of the contiguous wall* 
 by an earthquake. ,The cleft, wide 
 enough to admit the coats of tennis 
 players, and even the players thcmfelves, 
 was fo much ftraitened. by another earth- 
 
 3i.IJ.ISII JO *cii;3i; 3.U jiJ,/ Jiiift 
 
 quake, ten. years after, as to be hardly 
 difcernible. In the wall of the weftern 
 tower is a black round hole, occafioned 
 
 DjjiJir?! ci 3iIIOlJiOY 
 
 by lightning* 
 3 to 3fiJ ip 30;i 
 
 The ftone ufed here> called molajfe, 
 hardens by expofure .to the air. but is 
 
 ~C<7..J nOua JIUB OJ DSIOTlJ IHj D3nIjnOD 
 
 apt to :? receive injury from the rajru 
 Hence the unufual projection of the tiled 
 roofs* The two fpikes on the tops of ma- 
 ny of the houfes give them a fantaftic air. 
 At the windows of forrie of them I ob- 
 ferved convex mirrors, riot to reflect in 
 miniature the moft delightful of all land- 
 fcapes, but paffengfr's on the Jlreet ! A 
 fimilar trait of pitiful tafte is betrayed 
 in fome of the neighbouring gardens, 
 where yews and box trees are cut into 
 artificial figures. In Holland, where all 
 H 3 is
 
 10* LAUSANNE. 
 
 is forced, and the mind rivetted to limited 
 and interefted notions, fuch Gothicifm 
 may yet be tolerated ; but here it can 
 ferve only as a miferable foil to the mag- 
 nificent defigns of nature. 
 
 The town-houfe is rather an odd than 
 an elegant building. In the wall of the 
 veftibule is inferted a fquare piece of 
 marble, being one of the fides of a cof- 
 fin found at Vidi. The body which it 
 contained crumbled to duft upon expo- 
 fure to the air. Bochat thus interprets 
 the infcription : Soli genio luri^e r facrnfn 
 tx vofo pro fafate Augitjlorum Publius Clo- 
 dius Cornelia prlmti? curator Vikan&nrm 
 Lau/bnnenfium iterum Sevir 'jhHf&f&Ar 
 
 J J O J 
 
 confenfu confdit retpublicae conventits Hei- 
 vetlci 'defuo dedicavit. 
 
 The afcent to the upper part of the 
 town, or la cite> is by Hoping lanes aftd 
 a long covered ftair. 
 
 The bailli refides in a large gloomy 
 caftte, formerly th^e bilhdp's palace. He 
 
 it
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 is chofen by the fenate of Berne, and 
 continues in office feven years, with an 
 annual falafy of nearly j.2OOO. The 
 day of his inftalment is^ I believe, the 
 bnly one of public rejoicing at Laufanne. 
 A numerous cavalcade of gentlemen, 
 and the counfellors, in their robes, re- 
 ceive him as he enters, a round of field 
 pieces is fired from the terrace, and a 
 public entertainment given in the town- 
 houfe. 
 
 The academy, under the immediate 
 patronage of the government, is chiefly 
 frequented by young men of the country, 
 deftined to the church. Notwithftand- 
 ing the fmall emolument attached to the 
 ieveral chairs, they have ufually been 
 filled by men of r,efpeclability and emi- 
 nent talents ; fuch, efpecially, were Fa- 
 ret, Viret^ Hot t man , Conrad Gefner, Be- 
 za, Scapula, de Crot/fa^ Earbeyrac^ Bo- 
 chat^ &c. The medical profefibrfhip was 
 inftituted in favour of Monfieur Tiffot, 
 H 4 whole
 
 IO4 LAUSANNF. 
 
 whofe modefty in private life reflects ail 
 amiable luftre upon his profeflional ta- 
 lents. Tlie library belonging to this 
 feminary is well felected, and contains 
 fdme Roman coins and inscriptions, and 
 a few curioiities in natural hiftory. It 
 received confiderable additions from the 
 liberality of Hyacintho de Quiros, a 
 Spaniard Jby birth, but who withdrew 
 from the papal court, abjured the Romifh 
 faith, and was nominated by the govern- 
 ment of Berne, Profeflbr extraordinary 
 in church hiftory. 
 
 A public library has lately been efta- 
 blifhed, and promifes to be attended 
 with the heft confequences. The phy- 
 fical fociety is compofed of the firft 
 fcientific characters of the place, and 
 fome diftinguiihed foreigners. They 
 purpofe publifliing their tranfatlions in 
 regular order. 
 
 The public fchool has fix preceptors, 
 and 45 poor fcholars, penfioned by go- 
 vernment. 
 
 Baron
 
 LAUSAHNEv 
 
 Baron d'Erlacb, the prefent bailli, 
 poiTefTes an excellent cabinet of foffils, 
 particularly well aflbrted in fpecimens 
 from Saxony and the Swifs Cantons. 
 Colonel Reynier has a curious collection 
 of fluffed birds, and the amiable and 
 accomplifhed Mademoifelle Roel has 
 painted the native fpecies of papilios. 
 
 In this fmall town, whofe inhabitants 
 
 . do not exceed 7000, are fix printing- 
 
 prefles, three bookfeller's (hops well fur- 
 
 nimed, and a considerable circulating 
 
 library. 
 
 A trifling periodical paper, Le Journal . 
 de Laufanne^ and a fheet of advertife- 
 ments, Feuille d* avis^ are printed weekly. 
 
 The municipal government is vefted 
 in a burgo-mafter, treafurer, five banne- 
 rets, or captains of wards, the fmali 
 council of 24, that of 60, and the great 
 of 200. There is a civil and criminal 
 judge for the diftrid, with feveral offi- 
 cers under him. Two or three indivi- 
 duals
 
 106 LADSANNt. 
 
 duals of diligence and integrity, would 
 fuffice to the maintenance of peace and 
 good order. But fuch citizens as ftyle 
 themfelves noble, cherifh to this day that 
 moft abfurd of all prejudices, that trade 
 degrades their dignity and, as they can- 
 not all be bred to the liberal profeffions, 
 and few of them have much patrimony^ 
 a number of petty offices feem to have 
 been created in their favour. 
 
 I regret that I can pafs no ericomiurri 
 upon the mode in which criminal jufc 
 tice is here adminiftered. The trial is 
 conducted iri fecret confeffion inuft 
 precede condemnation, and may be ex^- 
 torted by the rack, or years of folitary 
 confinement. Capital crimes are, for- 
 tunately, very rare. The inhabitants 
 of the principal ftreet, riie de Bourg^ en- 
 joy the fignal privilege of being tried by 
 a jury. 
 
 The three churches are alternately 
 ferved by eight or nine of the eftablifhed 
 
 clergy,
 
 LAUSANNE. 107 
 
 clergy, who are diftributed into clafies* 
 and, ufually, promoted according to 
 feniorky. All recite their fermons 
 avoiding, on the one hand, the theatri- 
 cal gefticulations of the French, and, on 
 the other, the frigid monotony of our 
 Britilh preachers yet are not exempt 
 from a provincial drawl. Though their 
 livings be fmall, the clergy are much re- 
 fpe&ed, mingle freely in fociety, and 
 are little given to dogmatize in public or 
 private. An annual national faft is ap- 
 pointed by government, and is obferved 
 with much more rigour than Sunday, 
 every thing which favours of levity or 
 amufement being ftudioufly avoided, and 
 many individuals literally abftaining 
 from food during greateft part of the 
 day. 
 
 Previous to the reformation, Laufannc 
 contained five parifh churches. From 
 a paper entitled Catalogue raifonnt des 
 Evequcs de Laufannc^ it appears that 
 
 Pro*
 
 108 LAUSANNE. 
 
 Protaftus, or S. Protais, firft held 
 bifhoprick. He was buried at S. Prex. 
 Marius or S. Maire r the fourth in the 
 lift, "died 60 1, and is reputed the firft 
 author in the Pays de Vaud, having pen- 
 ned a fmall chronicle of his own times. 
 According to the catalogue, this chroni- 
 cle contains bien des chafes curicufes* 
 probably more curious than true. It is 
 ibmewhat fingular that when he records 
 the fatal effects of a prevailing fmall- 
 pox (variola], he notices that it proved 
 fatal to cows, 
 
 Henry, who was affaffinated 1019, is 
 faid tohave founded the cathedral and five 
 churches. The wife of Burchard made 
 feveral pious foundations. Burchard 
 himfelf fell in battle, on Chriftmas day, 
 1088, brandiftring the facred lance, 
 which was fuppofed to be that of St. 
 Conftantine. His fucceflbr, Lambert^ 
 was obliged to refign a caufe de fa mau- 
 vaife economic. Guy of Marlalne wa 
 
 depofed
 
 LAUSANNE. 109 
 
 depofed on account of diffolute conduct. 
 Landric of Dornay, who built the 
 tower of Ouchy, the caftle of Lucens, 
 &c. anticipated the difgrace of depofl- 
 tion, by voluntary refignation, 1174, 
 <z caufe (Timpudicite aupres du Pape. 
 William of Montbonnay was aflaffinated 
 by his barber, in the caftle of Lucens, 
 on the 9th of July, 1406. In 1479, 
 Benedict of Montferrand caufed profecute 
 the caterpillars (chenilles) who had pre- 
 fumed to prey upon the fruits of his 
 diocefe. Being found guilty, they un- 
 derwent the fentence of the greater ex- 
 communication. The lefler would-have 
 - been more fuitable to the ftature of the 
 delinquents. The town and cathedral 
 feem to have fyflfered much from fire in 
 the years 1216, 1219, 1225, and 1374, 
 when the houfes were built of timber, 
 and no regular police had been efta- 
 blifhed. In 1426 the citizens contri- 
 buted to the erection of a public clock, 
 3 which
 
 113 LAUSANNE, 
 
 which was regarded as a novelty. The 
 reft of the catalogue is occupied with 
 names and dates ; and there is a chafm 
 of a whole century, from 650 to 750. 
 The council of Bafil, when transferred 
 to Laufanne, on account of the plague, 
 Jield its fittings in the convent of the 
 Cordeliers. Its church, dedicated to St. 
 Francis, ftili remains, but, of the con^ 
 vent, the vaults only have been prefer- 
 ved, and are ufed as public wine cellars. 
 
 Befides the public hofpital there is 
 a charity fchool, in which the youth 
 of both fexes are gratuitoufly educated^ 
 and bred to profeflions. 
 
 The following notes are extracted 
 from a diary of the weather, begun at 
 Laufanne jft of June, 1787, and ending 
 2 2d January 1789. 
 
 The greateft heat of 1787 was on the 
 6th of Auguft, when the mercury in 
 Reaumur's thermometer rofe to 241 
 above zero, at two o'clock P. M. in the 
 (bade, and with a north expofure. It 
 
 fell
 
 LAUSANNE. II* 
 
 fell not below zero till 26th Novem- 
 ber, and its greateft defcent, which took 
 place at feven o'clock on the mornings 
 of the 29th November, 1787, and 2d 
 January, 1788, was 5!. During No- 
 vember, December, and January, it was 
 more frequently feveral degrees above 
 than below the freezing point : and the 
 inhabitants reckoned the winter unufu- 
 ally mild.r On the fecond of June, I 
 obferved ripe ftrawberries, full blown 
 rofes, carnations, &c. alfo wheat and 
 rye in the ear, and fix feet high. Green 
 peas were common about the middle of 
 the fame month, and harveft commenced 
 on the i gth of July. Ripe pears, ap- 
 pies, and plumbs, were ferved a,t table 
 on the 4th of Auguft, and excellent 
 peaches on the 1 2th of September. The 
 vintage was pretty general by the middle 
 of October. The thermometer marked 
 24, on the 1 2th of July, 1788. During 
 the four laft days of December it never 
 
 rofe
 
 112 LAUSANNE, 
 
 rofe above 9 below zero, and, on the 
 evening of the 3Oth, defcended to i. 
 The wine froze in feveral of the cellars, 
 and the moifture in bread and other ar- 
 ticles of provifion was quite congealed. 
 The winter proved uncommonly fevere 
 over the greateft part of Europe. A {in- 
 gle fiafh of lightning, very vivid, and very 
 unexpected, aftonifhed the inhabitants 
 at eight o'clock P. M. on the 24th of 
 February. It was followed, almoft in- 
 ftantaneoufly, by a loud peal of thunder. 
 A flight flioek of an earthquake was felt 
 an hour after, at three leagues from the 
 town. Flies, bees, and butterflies were 
 not imfrequent on the 8th of March, 
 when violets, primrofes, crocufes, &c. 
 were in full blow. Swallows were ob- 
 ferved on the I ith. On the 3Oth, many 
 fhrubs and trees were in leaf or flower, 
 and the gardens exhibited a fine difplay 
 of tulips, jonquils, daffodils, and crowns 
 .-^-On the following day, at 
 
 half
 
 LAUSANNE. i 13 
 
 \ia\f paft paft five o'clock P. M. we felt 
 a flight (hock of an earthquake, accom- 
 panied by a rumbling noife. The un- 
 dulatory motion was from S. to N. 
 Turnips and radifhes were common 
 about the end of April. Rofes, and a 
 variety of fummer flowers, were in their 
 prime on the iSth May. Some green - 
 peas were ferved in foups on the 21 ft, 
 when hay harveft was pretty general. 
 At 25 minutes paft mid day of the 25th, 
 there was a flight, but fenfible (hock of 
 an earthquake, which lafted only a few 
 feconds. Another lefs fenfible, was felt 
 next morning, at half paft nine o'clock. 
 A thunder ftorm on the third of June, 
 was more than commonly violent. The 
 lightning burnt feven houfes at Sulen, a 
 neighbouring village, five at St. Croix, 
 in mount Jura, and eight at Thonon, a 
 town of Savoy. The 8th of the fame 
 month was alfo uncommonly tempeftu- 
 ous, heavy rain and hail fhowers pouring 
 x down
 
 114 LAUSANNE. 
 
 down from different quarters of the 
 heavens, and rattling during the inter- 
 vals of thunder. Towards evening, the 
 low hanging clouds affected contrary 
 movements, whilft the bluifh tinge and 
 ragged borders of thofe charged with 
 the electric fluid, gave a peculiar intereft 
 to the flitting feene. At laft, they all 
 rufhed from S. W. and a fmart breeze 
 fet in from the fame quarter. The hail 
 lay a foot thick in the public fquare of 
 Berne, and confiderably injured the crops 
 about Nyon. I remarked ripe pears and 
 goofeberries on the 27th. Harveft be- 
 gan on the nth July. On the I2th of 
 September the fwallows collected on the 
 houfe tops, and difappeared. The vin- 
 tage was general early in October. The 
 utmoft range of the barometer, during 
 19 months, was i^ inch, within which 
 its variations were frequent, and fome- 
 times fudden. The feafons of equinox 
 and folftice were marked by no peculiar 
 
 de-
 
 LAUSANNE. 11$ 
 
 derangement of the elements, nor am I 
 warranted to conclude that the moon's 
 phafes at all influenced the ft ate of the 
 weather. 
 
 The Laufannois are, in general, po- 
 lite, fociable, attached to their country 
 and relatives, and courteous to ftrangers. 
 In their evening parties, termed foc'ietes^ 
 frequently enlivened by the prefence of 
 foreigners, there reigns an eafe of com- 
 munication, which is highly engaging. 
 Some of the company ufually play at 
 vlngt-un-, and never flake deep: but 
 they who value their converfation talents 
 as much as I do, will regret the leifure 
 beftowed upon a game at cards, and that 
 a dull one. The ladies feldom paint, 
 are lefs talkative, but more fplntuelles^ 
 Or, or leaft, more interefting than the 
 Gallic fair, and more happily blend mo- 
 defty and affability than the natives of 
 any country I have as yet vifited. The 
 gentlemen have a fharpnefs of feature 
 i 2 ex-
 
 Il6 LAUSANNE. 
 
 expreflivc of intellect, a livelinefs of dif- 
 pofition peculiarly attracting, a ccfoipe- 
 lent (hare of general information, and a 
 relifh for the fimple and elegant accom- 
 modations of dotneftic fociety. An opu- 
 lent Englishman would be apt to con- 
 fider them as penurious, forgetting that 
 economy with them is a neceflary vir- 
 tue ; for their incomes are limited, and 
 difgrace attaches to infolvency. But, if 
 all the luxury which wealth brings in its 
 train be unknown, the extremes of po- 
 verty are likewife banifhed. On the 
 ftreets, I do not recollect to have feen a 
 beggar and benevolence is here an ac- 
 tive virtue. The fympathy and affift- 
 ance beftowed upon objects of diftrefs 
 would extort a blufh from the fons of 
 avarice, if capable of blufhing. I faw 
 
 Monfieur , who had experienced 
 
 fome fad reverfes of fortune, bent with 
 years, in a coarfe, but warm garb, re- 
 taining on his venerable countenance a 
 
 ferenity,
 
 LAUSANNE. 1 17 
 
 ferenity, and even a fraile, which ad- 
 verfity had refpecled. The recolle&ion 
 of the delicate ingenuity by which his 
 fellow citizens contrived to relieve his 
 wants, without hurting his feelings, has 
 more than once repreffed the rifmg fen- 
 timents of fnifanthrophy, when reflecting 
 upon fcenes which I abhor to defcribe. 
 The youth recounted to me with tears of 
 joy, the kindnefles of their parents to 
 this amiable old man. -What are vo- 
 lumes of morality compared to the charm 
 pf native virtue ?
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 an. 1789. A HE ftern call of duty 
 this morning fevered me from weeping 
 friends. Yet why regifter unavailing re- 
 grets ? Shall we not meet again in this 
 or in a better world ? Meanwhile, let 
 me endeavour, as on former occafions, 
 to note the remarks fuggefted in the 
 route. 
 
 Vtdi) on the right, indicated by two 
 handfome villas and a few farm houfes, 
 deferves to be noted as the fite of the an- 
 cient Capentrasy Arpentra^ or Arpentlna^ 
 a town founded, it is alleged, by the 
 Gauls, and from which afterwards arofe 
 Laufonne. The occafional difcovery of 
 Roman antiques attefts a place of rank: 
 
 but
 
 FROM LAUSANNE, &C. 1 19 
 
 but not a fmgle vifible relic directs the 
 eye of the uninformed traveller, nor 
 does hiftory diftinftly inform us how or 
 when Arpentina difappeared. Perhaps 
 it was defolated by the barbarians in the 
 fourth and fifth centuries, when Helvetia 
 fmarted from their inroads, when Orbe^ 
 the ancient Urbigenum y and Avenches^ 
 the acient Aventicum y were laid in aflies. 
 The furface flattened as we advanced, 
 producing vines, intermingled with rich 
 paftures and artificial meadows. -S>. 
 Sulpice, once a confiderable priory, with 
 the adjoining houles, placed on a point 
 of land, enhance the profpedr, if viewed 
 from a diftance. A lefs tranfient object 
 of contemplation is a great portion of the 
 Jura ridge, receding, as it were, from 
 the majefty of the oppofing Alps, yet 
 fkirting a delightful aflemblage of com- 
 fortable manfions, and the dwellings of an 
 induftrious, contented peafantry. The 
 Savoy fhore, on which the prince and the 
 i 4 prieft
 
 120 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 prieft cramp exertion, and grind the face 
 of the poor, lay fhrouded in mift and 
 merited obfcurity ; but the curtain was 
 drawn afide from the amphitheatre of 
 Vaud, whofe magnificence and beauty 
 have attracted the fond admiration of a 
 Voltaire and a RoufTeau, of a Gibbons 
 and a Raynal, and in which Tavernier 
 preferably chofe to reft from his long 
 and various wanderings. When Lewis 
 XIV alked why he did not prefer pur- 
 chafing an eftate N in his kingdom the 
 vagrant jeweller plainly replied, ceft 
 que je vettx^ Sire, que mon domainc foit a 
 moi. 
 
 Marges, charmingly fituated on the 
 lake, is a fmall, but clean, well built 
 town, confirming of two ftreets, with a 
 commodious wharf. It is the feat of a 
 baill't^ whofe jurifdiction includes the 
 , greateft portion of la Cote^ a diftrict nine 
 miles in length, and three in breadth, 
 having its gentle acclivities finely varied 
 
 with
 
 TO LYONS. 121 
 
 vineyards, meadows, corn fields, 
 and a rich profufion of fruit-trees. Its 
 white wines are celebrated for tReir 
 ftrength and flavour, and will keep twen- 
 ty years, without indicating any fymp- 
 toms of decay. 
 
 Through St. Prex, an inconfiderable 
 village, which lays claim to the firft 
 church in the Pays de Vaud^ and ftands 
 upon the line of the Roman way, which 
 led from Geneva to Befan9on> The 
 milliary column, removed from St. Prex 
 to the bridge of Boifon, bears that the 
 road was repaired in the year 214 of the 
 phriftian era. 
 
 Rol/e, according to fome, the Rotulum 
 of ancient geographers, is a neat town- 
 let of one ftreet, lying in the bottom of 
 a bay, and occafionally reforted to on 
 account of its mineral waters, efpecially 
 by thofe afflicted with rheumatifm. 
 The ground, on the right, though in a 
 
 (late of culture, is diverfified with 
 
 patches
 
 122 j. FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 patches of wood, the relics of the great 
 foreft which it is conjectured gave name 
 to the. canton, Vaud (in low latinity, 
 comitotus Valdenfis) being derived from 
 the German Wald* 
 
 During our progrefs, we remarked 
 frequent orchards, ftored with apple, 
 pear, cherry, walnut, and chefnut trees, 
 The farmers not flavifhly wedded to 
 prejudice or mere routine, fuccefsfully 
 cultivate faint-foin, lucern, and other 
 artificial grafies. Buck wheat too, is 
 abundantly common ; and hence, we 
 may conclude, beneficial. 
 
 Nyon, Noviodunum, Noiodunum, Co- 
 lonia^ueftriS) &c. a Roman colony, and 
 a ftation on the military way between 
 Geneva and Befanfon, retains few fymp- 
 toms of former confequence. Some an- 
 tiquities have, however, been difcovered 
 in the town and neighbourhood, frag- 
 ments of Corinthian pillars have been 
 inferted ia the walls of feveral houfes, 
 
 and
 
 TO LYONS* 123 
 
 and Monfieur des Vignes has in his pof- 
 feffion a ftone with a Roman infcription, 
 apparently in honour of Gordian III. 
 The bailli's chateau, like thofe of Lau- 
 ianne and ; Morges, is fufficiently gloomy, 
 bur, like them, too, commands a mofl 
 delicious profpecl:. Here is a manufac- 
 tory of coarfe porcelain and ftone ware, 
 and fome timber is (hipped for Geneva, 
 The number of inhabitants is loofely cal- 
 culated at 4500. 
 
 Crofied a fmall parcel oi* Genevan 
 territory, comprehending the villages of 
 Seligny and la Coudre. 
 
 Coppet is diftinguifhed by the ftately 
 manfion of Necker a delightful raftjre- 
 xnent, which moft philofophers would 
 prefer to the fmoke of Paris, and the 
 corruptions of a court. 
 
 Entered Gex, the country of the La- 
 tobriges, now aa appendage of Bur- 
 gundy, feven leagues in length and five 
 in breadth. Its 25 proteflaat churches 
 
 were
 
 FROM LAUSANNJE 
 
 were demolifhed in the laft century: 
 and the people have reverted to catho- 
 licity and fervitude. Its mountains, a 
 continuation of Jura, afford excellent 
 pafture, and its dairies are noted for 
 eheefe: but there is a dearth of wood 
 and of ordinary provifions, many of the 
 inhabitants fubfifting chiefly on chefnuts 
 during winter. In fome parts is found 
 a wild filk, the produce of a varied co-r 
 loured caterpillar, whjch lives, works, 
 and dies upon its favourite pine. Unlike 
 their Swifs neighbours, who are, in ge- 
 neral, well made, robuft, healthy, and 
 decently apparelled, the Gefois are di- 
 minutive,, meagre, dirty, ragged, trip- 
 ping along, and uuhiftling for iv-ant of 
 thought^ in n6ify fabots. 
 
 Yerfoix, or Verfoy, once a. Roman fta- 
 tion, was erected in the fancy of the 
 Due de Choifeal injo the formidable 
 rival of Geneva. Streets were even 
 traced, a canal to Seyflel was planned, 
 
 a de-
 
 TO LYONS. 125 
 
 a detachment of troops pafied a fevere 
 \vinter under wooden fheds, and 1 25,000 
 livres were expended, when the minifter 
 was di {miffed and his project abandoned. 
 
 The valley in whofe centre Geneva is 
 fituated, though not naturally fertile, is 
 ftudded with neat rural feats and gar- 
 dens, and owes it pleafing variety of 
 vegetable productions to the induftry of 
 the inhabitants. The fite of Geneva is 
 more deprefled than that of Laufanne, 
 but the foreground of the landfcape is f 
 perhaps, more gay, and the mountainous 
 terminations are not lefs bold, abrupt, 
 and fublime. The open country be- 
 tween the Alps and Jura, is reckoned 
 eighteen leagues from North to South^ 
 and five from Eaft to Weft. 
 
 The difturbed ftate of the city rendered 
 it unfafe to enter its gates. A trifling 
 rife in the price of bread had excited the 
 populace to ads of open violence; and 
 the funeral of a woman, who had been 
 
 killed
 
 126 FROM 
 
 killed by the military, became the 
 fcal of infurreftioh. A few of the fol- 
 'diers have been killed and wounded, and 
 all are this day difarmed. The govern- 
 ment, it is alleged, will fhortly undergo 
 certain modifications congenial with its 
 republican fpirit. 
 
 Such are the leading features of all 
 the intelligence I have been able to col- 
 lect in the fuburb of Secheiron y where 
 an elegant inn and comfortable accom- 
 modations miferably compenfated our 
 exclufion from the birth place of Rouf- 
 feau, from a juftly celebrated feat of 
 learning and the art?. 
 
 Before I take leave of one of the fineft 
 lakes in the world, it may be proper to 
 note the following particulars. The 
 form of this magnificent bafon is that 
 of a crefcent, with blunted horns, of 
 which that next Geneva is the moft 
 deeply indented. The courfe of north- 
 ern (here, from Geneva to Villeneuve, 
 
 meafures
 
 TO LYONS. 12^ 
 
 rneafures about fifty-five Englim miles ; 
 but a ftraight line, drawn through Cha- 
 biais, would not exceed forty-two. The 
 extreme breadth, from Rolle to near Tho- 
 non, is reckoned twelve miles ; but be- 
 tween Rolle and Geneva it feldom fur- 
 paffes three. De Luc fuppofes that the 
 depth, which is very unequal, exceeds 
 not 1 60 fathoms. Off Meillerie, Sauf- 
 fure had foundings at 95 o feet. The 
 furface, reckoned 1228 feet above the 
 level of the Mediterranean, never freezes 
 completely in the fevereft winters, andj 
 owing to the melting of the mountain 
 fnows, rifes, in fummer, to the height 
 of ten feet. The only femblance of an 
 ifland is a fmall rocky eminence, near 
 Geneva, called pierre a Ncyton^ anciently 
 lapis Neptuni) and fuppofed to have been 
 confecratcd to the god of the trident. 
 That the Rhone, which enters at Ville- 
 rieuve, and iffues at Geneva, preferves 
 its courfe, uninterrupted and unmixed, 
 6 through
 
 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 through fuch an extent of water, is one 
 of the many wonders which never ex- 
 ifted but in the minds of the credulous. 
 Yet many fidions originate in truth. As 
 the river rumes in with violence, it pre- 
 ferves its onward courfe for a fhort dif- 
 tance, ere it is uniformly diffufed.in the 
 mafs. The tale, however, is not of 
 yefterday. Ammiahus Marcellinus, who 
 fo eafily fwallowed the balls of fire, 
 feems anxious to digeft them by a mi- 
 raculous river. A Pssninis Alpibus, fays 
 he, effufiore copia fontium Rhodanus 
 fluens, et proclivi impetu ad planiora di- 
 grediens, proprio agmine ripas occultas^ 
 et paludi fefe ingurgitat, nomine Lema- 
 no, eamque inter means, mifquam aquls 
 mifcctur externis,fed altrinfecus fummitates 
 und<z prteterlabens fegniores qu&ritans ex- 
 ttus vlam fibi Impetu veloci nwlitar^ &c. 
 Befides the Rhone, forty fubordinate 
 ftreams pour their tribute into the lake. 
 In different portions of the furface, the 
 
 afpedt
 
 TO LYONS. 129 
 
 afpec~t ufually varies: but the moft de- 
 lightful changes are occafioned by the 
 pure azure of day, the glowing tints of 
 the rifmg and fetting fun, and the tre- 
 mulous reflections of the moon. Some- 
 times it exhibits fhadings of fea-green, 
 and is liable to confiderable agitation 
 from high winds. The phenomenon of 
 ihefeicbe, or mock tide, confined to the 
 extremities of the lake, and which oc- 
 curs when the warmth of the atmofphere 
 is moft favourable to the melting of the 
 fnow, has been afcribed by Jallabert and 
 others to the increafed volume of the 
 Rhone and the Arve. The fifh moft 
 common in this lake are trout and perch, 
 the latter uncommonly large. The want 
 of falmon is compenfated by the large 
 and fmall umble or ombre ^ varieties of the 
 falmo umbra of Linne, and mentioned 
 by fome naturalifts as peculiar to the 
 Swifs and Italian lakes. The large fort, 
 frequently termed umblc chevalier, mea- 
 K fures
 
 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 fures three feet, when full grown, and 
 taftes like falmon. The back is blue, 
 with dark (hadings, and the belly of a 
 golden yellow. The liezole, pala, farra^ 
 orferra, and even the platte^ feem to be 
 only provincial appellations of ihejalmo 
 lavaretus. The tippet grebe haunts the 
 Leman from December to February, 
 makes it neft of rufhes, interwoven with 
 reeds, and has it partly immerfed, but 
 not floating, as Linne has afTerted. On 
 account of its delicate and warm plumage, 
 which is converted into muffs and tip- 
 pets, it fells for about fourteen millings. 
 Though principally known upon the 
 continent by the name of Grebe du lac dc 
 Geneve, it likewife frequents the lake of 
 Zurich, and that of Grandlieu, in Britany. 
 The fcenes and the fociety of the 
 enchanting borders which ftill detain my 
 lingering regards, have fuggefted an, 
 honejl compliment, though in verfe : 
 
 Farewell,
 
 TO LYONS. 
 
 i. 
 
 Farewell, ye modeft roofs, ye antique tow'rs ! 
 Condemn'd from you and innocence to ftray, 
 Still muft I dream of vine-clad hills and bow'rs, 
 Where balmy zephyrs fan the lap of May. 
 
 n. 
 
 Adieu, ye rocks, that echo to the voice 
 Of fwains difporting in the daified glade, 
 Adieu, ye walks, where virtue's fons rejoice, 
 Mufing, at eve, in contemplation's fhade ! 
 
 in. 
 
 Ye Alpine monuments of age, whofe pride 
 Sublimely mocks our boafted domes below, 
 Far into vapour blue I fee you glide, 
 Vanifh your awful cliffs and hoary heads of fnow ! 
 
 IV. 
 
 You heights of Jura, may each patriot hail, 
 As bulwarks rear'd by an Almighty arm 
 Oh Ikreen Helvetia, when the hofts a/Tail, 
 Oh guard her children from the tyrant's harm I 
 
 v. 
 
 I leave the wavy pine, the tufted dell, 
 The vale of fmiles and many manfions fair, 
 I leave thofe charms no common lore can tell, 
 Thofe charms which lull ambition, pride and care. 
 
 VI. 
 
 And muft I leave thee, Leman, Europe's boaft, 
 Sweeping in crefcent form the vale profound, 
 While fairy wavelets play upon thy coaft, 
 And foaming Rh6ne is footh'd, and liftens to the 
 found ? 
 
 K2 Oft
 
 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 VII. 
 
 Oft would I pore upon thy glafly ftream, 
 In balmy vifitations of the morn, 
 And oft, at eve, in Cynthia's quiv'ring gleam, 
 Would catch the echo of the winding horn. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Oft have I ftray'd thy margin's maze along, 
 As oft admir'd grand Nature's changing pow'rs, 
 Who now moves placid to the vernal fbng, 
 And now in frowns and midnight horrors low'rs. 
 
 IX. 
 
 For blythfome morn, in faffron cin&ure bound, 
 'Mid all the glories of the blue fercne, 
 Would fhed ambrofial dews and fragrance round, 
 And myriad flow'rs bedeck the {helving green. 
 
 x. 
 
 When, lo ! a lurid cloud, athwart the fky, 
 With coming blafts deforms the tranquil pole, 
 The forky darts of glaring light'nings fly, 
 The dread infpiring peals of thunders roll ! 
 
 XI. 
 
 The torrent tumbles to the mountain's bafe, 
 The drifted mafles from their craggs are hurl'd 
 The din rebellows thro' th' unfathom'd maze, 
 And dark confufion fcowls upon the world ! 
 
 XII. 
 
 O ye, who wind along the mountain hoar 
 Hie to fome cave, or ihepherd's rude abode, 
 Whether tremenduous wonders you explore, 
 Or wend to Rome, to kneel before your God ! 
 
 For
 
 TO LYONS. 133 
 
 xm. 
 
 For foon this elemental war fliall ceafe, 
 Thefe hollow founds in airy diftance die, 
 Iris, the gentle harbinger of peace, 
 Shall trace her glorious arch along the Iky. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Hufti'd was the whirlwind, when, from lofty fanei 
 The frefhen'd landfcape feem'd to ftretch afar, 
 Geneva's tow'rs fofe on the weftern plain, 
 And glitter'd to the day's refulgent ftar. 
 
 xv. 
 
 Her walls of lore would then recall a name, 
 To truth, humanity, and freedom dear 
 O ye, whofe breafts glow with a gen'rous flame, 
 Pardon his errors and his worth revere ! 
 
 XVI. 
 
 And next the rocks of Meillerie difplay'd 
 Dear fombre haunts, where youths and virgins figh, 
 Whilft Vevey's fhore fpoke of the haplefs maid, 
 And Chillon's turrets trembl'd on the eye. 
 
 xvn. 
 
 Such tender fympathies invade the foul, 
 When fond remembrance wakens from repofe, 
 Sweet were thofe moments when from play we ftolc 
 And melted at the tale of Julia's woes ! 
 
 Thou fun of eve, whofe mild declining ray 
 Would tinge yon airy ice with rofeate hue, 
 And clofe with ever-varying charms the day, 
 Accept the tribute of a long adieu ! 
 
 *3 Yet
 
 134 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 XIX. 
 
 Yct> oft as radiance of the weftern ikies, 
 In fome far diftant land appears to burn, 
 Fancy fhall bid Valdenfia's viftas rile, 
 Shall bid the hours on angel wing return. 
 
 Yes, they return I'll linger yet awhile 
 On borders darling as my native home^Y 
 Kind Fancy, all my wayward thoughts beguile, 
 And waft me to the friends from whom I roam '- 
 
 XXI. 
 
 Again I mingle in the ocial choir, 
 The converfe fage or jocund ftill goes round, 
 Laufonia's nymphs ftill ftrike the trembling wire, 
 And wake to tcflacy the thrilling found. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 Let others revel in their gorgeous halls, 
 Their bulfe of Ind and canopy difplay, 
 In fullen ftate deride the poor man's calls, 
 Or fawn on fcepter'd pageants of a day. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 Let others prize the pomp of Europe's crimes, 
 And all the wealth our captive brethren yield, 
 Let monfters, favage as their frozen climes, 
 Eredl their empire on the blood-ftain'd field ! 
 
 Mine be the boon of fond domeftic joy, 
 And health, and competence, and inward eafe 
 Ah ! thefe. are bleffings fure without alloy, 
 Again I breathe Helvetia's genial breeze. 
 
 Ah
 
 TO LYONS. 135 
 
 XXV. 
 
 Ah no ! like fleeting phantonTof the morn, 
 Which long and oft its viftim may deplore, 
 The fpell difTolves in air the fwain, forlorn, 
 Pours his fad defcants on the parting fhore. 
 
 3 ift. A moft unwelcome fog deprived 
 us this morning of all diftant views, as 
 we journeyed either on French or Gene- 
 van ground. 
 
 Met a few peafants on their way to 
 fearch for gold fpangles, which are oc- 
 cafionally deteded in the fand, that ad- 
 heres to large ftones, along the Rh6ne, 
 chiefly from the junction of the Arve to 
 a few leagues further down. The quan- 
 tity, however, is fo inconfiderable as 
 merely to yield the waftiers a fcanty 
 fubfiftence in winter, when in want of 
 better employment. 
 
 Dined at Colonge^ a ftraggling bourg, 
 obvioufly French, from its dirty afpect. 
 A fmart perruqutire, the only profeffional 
 individual of the place, wielded the ra- 
 zor, comb, and tongue, with equal grace 
 and alertnefs. 
 
 K We
 
 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 We had now reached le grand Credo, 
 the laft of the Jura mountains, whilft 
 part of the Savoye Alps rofe towering 
 on our left. Airy woods and threat- 
 ning cliffs environed us, as we pafled on 
 to Fort -de FEclufe, a moft romantic de- 
 file between Vouache and the termination 
 of Credo) admitting only a narrow road 
 and the channel of the river, which 
 rolls its blue ftream at the foot of abrupt 
 and majeftic rocks. This (Inking pafs 
 is well characterized by Csefar : iter *an- 
 gujlum et difficile inter montem Juram et 
 jtumen Rhodanum, vix qua fmgidi carri 
 duccrentur : mons autem altiffimus impen- 
 
 Js JL 
 
 dcbaty ut facile pauci prohibere pojfent. 
 The indications noted by Sauffure, in his 
 Voyages dans les Alpes, a work which it 
 is impoffible to perufe or praife too much, 
 nearly amount to a proof that the paflage 
 was effected by the preffure and gradual 
 erofion of the water, and coincide with 
 the hiftorical deductions of Senebier re- 
 lative
 
 TO LYONS. 137 
 
 lative to the ancient extent of the lake 
 of Geneva. 
 
 At the barrier, an invalid demanded 
 our pafiport, with which the officer de- 
 claring himfelf perfectly fatisfied, we 
 were allowed to proceed. 
 
 Three miles onward, near the hamlet 
 of Coupy, we wound down on foot, to 
 examine the noted perte du Rhone. No 
 fooner has the river efcaped from one 
 narrow pafs than it feems to court ano- 
 ther, and, unlefs during a flood, difap- 
 pears under a heap of calcareous rocks 
 which it has undermined, for about fix- 
 ty paces. The covered excavations are 
 probably abrupt and deep, for the ftream 
 is obferved to re-iflue with unufual calm- 
 nefs. The water, in its fubterraneous 
 courfe, is fuppofed to filtrate through 
 beds of gravel, as fubftances thrown 
 into the defcending ftream are never ob- 
 ferved to remount. The Valferine, a 
 neighbouring rivulet, paffes under the 
 
 fame
 
 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 fame calcareous rock. The Guadiana, 
 in Spain, the Vernelle, in Franche Comte, 
 feveral rivulets in Normandy, and fome, 
 I believe, in Yorkfhire, have been re- 
 marked as fubjed: to fimilar difparitions. 
 
 A little below, the rocky banks are 
 vaulted with frowning groves. The fall 
 of the leaf admits the long excluded 
 light, and the latter, as if to compen- 
 fate its abfence in the fummer, is ren- 
 dered quite dazzling by the multiplied 
 fplendour of icicles, depending like cryf- 
 tal luftres. 
 
 Our guides reconducted us by an eafy 
 afcent to Pont-Lambirt, a bridge thrown 
 over a yawning precipice and here 
 Abraham Uamari y our poftillion, awaited 
 us. 
 
 Faffed the night at Chatillon de Mi- 
 cbaille, a poor village. All this after- 
 noon we have been in Bugey^ another 
 Appendage of Burgundy, hilly, abound- 
 ing in fheep paftures, and producing fir, 
 
 hemp,
 
 TO LYONS. 139 
 
 hemp, and walnuts. The royal or gol- 
 den eagle, of no frequent occurrence 
 in Europe, haunts the fummits of its 
 mountains. The warbling of the greater 
 red ftart, or rock-fhrike, which fo agree- 
 bly enlivens thefe inhofpitable regions, 
 is repaid with death. In a ftate of inno- 
 cence and virtute, would we, for a fa- 
 vory meal, facrifice the bird whofe notes 
 had delighted us ? Or, fhould it excite 
 our furprize, if they who can feel a pe- 
 culiar relifh for fuch repafts, fhould re- 
 fort to an execution as to a puppet-fhew? 
 In the epicure's bill of fare, the nightin- 
 gale ranks with the ortolan : and the 
 red-breaft, which, from inclination o r 
 neceffity, implores our protection, is 
 reckoned exquifite in autumn. The 
 French may plead the example of 
 the Romans, who tamed a great va- 
 riety of fmall birds, and fed them for 
 the table. Varro, if I rightly recollect, 
 makes mention of a fmgle villa, in which 
 
 5000
 
 140 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 5000 thruflies were fattened in the courfe 
 of one year. But it is no extenuation 
 of modern barbarity to allege that the 
 Romans were always cruel upon an ex- 
 tenfive fcale. 
 
 Feb. ift. Hills, drearinefs, and poverty 
 accompanied us .for fome miles. Near 
 St. Germain-de-Joux, we remarked a 
 clufter of decent houfes, and remarked 
 them as a rarity. The pool of Sylant 
 I can hardly call it a lake with its deep 
 and fhady banks, and its folitary cafcade, 
 finely accords with the furrounding 
 gloom. The little lake of Nantua, too, 
 about a mile in length, fkirted by per- 
 pendicular rocks, from which tumble 
 two cafcades, contributed to beguile the 
 tedioufnefs of our highland way: for 
 the fcenery is wildly pi&urefque, with- 
 out harfhnefs, and fome of its mod cap- 
 tivating features are reflected from the 
 tranfparent bafon. In the neighbour- 
 hood of Paris or London, this little dif- 
 
 trift
 
 TO LYONS. 
 
 tri& would receive the daily vifits of the 
 curious and the fentimental, would be 
 exalted into fairy land, and have its 
 charms confecrated in fong. Yet I love 
 it chiefly on account of its fequeftration. 
 On the right ftands the town of the 
 fame name, of fmall lize, though the 
 fecond in Bugey, with a parifli church, 
 a Benedictine priory, a nunnery, a col- 
 lege, and an hofpital. Its principal ma- 
 nufactures are of hair, chamois, gauzes, 
 callicoes, and nankeen. In a neighbour- 
 ing gorge of the mountains, there is a 
 warm fpot of perpetual verdure, fkreened 
 from the northern and weftern blafts, 
 and in which the fand martin is found 
 in the midft of winter. 
 
 N'avez vous pas fouvent, aux lieux infrequentes, 
 Rencontre tout a coup ccs afpefts enchantes 
 Qui fufpendent vos pas, dont 1'image chcrie 
 Vous jette en un douce ct longue reverie ? 
 Saififlez, f '11 fe peut, Icurs traits les plus frappans, 
 JEt des champs apprenez 1'art de parer les champs. 
 
 DE JLILLR. 
 
 15 ThrougU
 
 142 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 Through meadows and winding vales, 
 feme of whofe lofty fides are wooded 
 to the top ; yet was the country thin- 
 ly peopled, and the' road tirefome, till 
 we eyed the blue fmoke of Cerdon y 
 flowly rifmg from a bottom of uncom- 
 mon depth. In' the courfe of our de- 
 fcent, we leifurely contemplated the va- 
 rying afpects of the hills, planted with 
 ruined towers, and the playful windings 
 of a ftream, partly {haded by (lately 
 walnut trees. The whole fcenery, in- 
 deed, has charms which I cannot de- 
 fcribe. Surely, if compelled to lead a 
 hermit's life, I would fearch for my cave 
 among the mountains of Cerdon and 
 would rejoice when I had found it. 
 
 At noon, we alighted in the village. 
 Our landlady, in all the fimplicity of un- 
 feigned grief, informed us of the prema- 
 ture departure of one of the three canons, 
 who officiate in the parifh church. During 
 the late feverc and double preflure of cold 
 
 and
 
 TO LYONS. 143 
 
 and famine, his ceafelefs employment 
 was to adminifter temporal and fpiritual 
 fuccour to the ftarving and the defolate. 
 But fatigue and anxiety were preying 
 on his vitals, and he died of a fever in 
 the flower his days, and amid the la- 
 mentations of the poor, who fo largely 
 fhared the fruits of his benevolence.- 
 Hear, and blufh, ye mitred great ! when 
 you repofe on the down of luxury, or 
 purfue the airy profpects of ambition, 
 heedlefs of the fufferings which you arc 
 called upon to foothe, and regardlefs of 
 the labouring tribes of your fellow-men^ 
 without whom your condition would be 
 helplefs an obfcure minifter of the altar 
 delights to deal his alms from his fcanty 
 portion, and lavimes his life in the no- 
 bleft fervice of humanity ! No- fculp- 
 tured marble may rife upon his tomb 
 but bis vuitnefs is in Heaven , and bis re- 
 cord is on high. 
 
 The
 
 144 FROM LAUSANNE 
 
 The next ftage, to Sf. Detiys-le- Cbof- 
 fon, prefented fome plcafant and extended 
 plains, checquered with villages and old 
 caftles. Our auberge apparently cor- 
 refponded to the poverty of the village 
 yet never, under a French roof, was I 
 entertained with more unaffected hof- 
 pitality. Every one of the family was 
 more anxious than another to render 
 our fituation comfortable, and this, with 
 an expreffion of cordiality, which, when 
 it quite delighted us, extorted a warm 
 tribute of praife even from our Jewifli 
 driver a man who very faithfully per^ 
 formed his duty, but feldom could be 
 noufed from taciturnity. 
 
 2//. Parted very early, and very re- 
 luctantly. For once I took an afteclion- 
 ate leave of an innkeeper. The good 
 man bade God blefs us and fure I am 
 his honeft prayer is worth all the holy 
 waters and benedicite's of St. Peter's. 
 
 The
 
 TO LYONS; 145 
 
 The dawn revealed a country inclining 
 to flatnefs, with few houfes in fight.- 
 Ferried the Aln^ a river of fome fize* 
 which has its fource in the val-de-neige 
 of Jura, and abounds in the fmall fpe- 
 cies of ombre. 
 
 Montluel (mons lupclli)^ our meridian 
 ftage, is the head town of that part of 
 Brefle, which is termed Valbonne 
 an extenfive tracl: of plain, which 
 ftretches, northwards, beyond the view, 
 and is not a little enlivened by the fre- 
 quency of cottages, moft of them, in- 
 deed, of clay, but neat and tiny. Clean-, 
 linefs is feldom the companion of po- 
 verty and, upon enquiry, I found that 
 moft of the peafants are actually pro- 
 prietors of fmall farms. 
 
 Montleul Has a collegiate and two 
 parifh churches, and is traverfed by a 
 confiderable rivulet called Seranne. 
 
 Scarcely had we proceeded a few 
 
 miles in the afternoon, when increafing 
 
 L culture
 
 146 FROM LAUSANNE, &C. 
 
 culture and population, a hovering cloud 
 of fmoke, the dome of an hofpital, and 
 the fpires of temples announced the pre 
 fence of a city. According to Martyn, 
 this city is ninety-five miles, three fur- 
 longs from Geneva.
 
 ( 147 ) 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 LYONS. 
 
 i (a corruption of Lugdun, a Celtic 
 word denoting the junffion of Jlreams^ 
 probably exifted at a very early period : 
 but the foundation of the Roman colony, 
 under the aufpices of the fame Lucius 
 Munatius Plancus, to whom Horace ad- 
 drefles the feventh of his firft book of 
 odes, dates from the year of Rome 711, 
 or forty*three years before the birth of 
 Chrift. The colonifts, expelled by the 
 Allobroges from Vienne in Dauphiny, 
 had retired to the confluence of the 
 Rhone and Saone. On the fame 
 at prefent called Enay or dinay, 
 
 ^ rofe a magnificent temple to 
 L 2 Auguftus,
 
 148 LYONS. 
 
 Auguftus, the offering of the fixty tribes 
 of Gaul, embellifhed with fixty ftatues, 
 and ferved by fixty arufpices and three 
 hundred augurs. Under its roof, Cali- 
 gula inftituted thofe academical competi- 
 tions, to which the eloquent of all coun- 
 tries were invited. The unfuccefsful 
 candidate was not only obliged to pur- 
 chafe at his own expence a prize for his 
 opponent, but to efface his own compe- 
 tition piece with a fpunge, or elfe be 
 fcourged with rods, or even precipitated 
 into the Rhone. 
 
 Palleat, ut nudis preflit qui cakibus anguem, 
 
 Aut Lugdunenfim rhetor diQurus ad aram. JUVENAL. 
 
 But I muft not expatiate upon the 
 ancient hiftory of this illuftrious city ; 
 for the fubjecT: would demand a feparats 
 volume, and has been minutely difcufled 
 by learned pens. 
 
 The fituation of the modern town> 
 nearly in the centre of Europe, on twQ 
 
 navigable
 
 LYONS. 149 
 
 navigable rivers, and on the junction* 
 of many public roads, is extremely fa- 
 vourable to the purfuits of commerce. 
 The Rhone affords an expeditious com- 
 munication with Languedoc, the Comtat 
 Venaiflin, Provence, and the Mediter- 
 ranean ; the Saone, uniting with the 
 Doubs, lays open the trade of Burgundy 
 and Franche Comte, whence the land 
 tranfport into Alface, Champagne, and 
 Lorraine, is neither troublefome nor 
 expenfive ; the vicinity of Geneva, 
 Switzerland, and Savoy, facilitates an ad- 
 vantageous traffic with thefe ftates and 
 invites, through their channel, to more 
 extended dealings with a confiderable 
 portion of Germany, Piedmont, and 
 the Milanefe. The climate, too, is of 
 a happy temperature ; and the gay con- 
 fufion of hill and dale, diftant viftas of 
 the Alps, and a rare felicity of the vari- 
 ous products of favoured foils, laboured 
 by human induftry, and adorned with 
 L 3 cheerful
 
 IJO LYONS. 
 
 cheerful dwellings, -compofe the fur- 
 rounding landfcape. Very different is 
 the complexion of the town itfelf. The 
 ftreets are moftly fombre, ill paved, 
 narrow, and dirty many of the houfes 
 are dimly lighted by oiled paper, are un- 
 equal in height, though none of them 
 low, and all blackened with fmoke. 
 Several families refide in the fame tene- 
 ment, and even the moft wealthy feldom 
 occupy an entire houfe. The number 
 of houfes, including fuburbs, is com- 
 puted at 7000. 
 
 An academician of the place, who 
 kept a regifter of baptifms, marriages* 
 and burials, from ift January 1750 to 
 3 1 ft December 1774, gives the follow- 
 ing refults. i. In 1750, there were 
 4807 baptifms, 86 1 marriages, and 3370 
 burials. In 1774, 5777 baptifms, 1391 
 marriages, and 3613 burials. 2. The 
 males exceed the females by a twenty- 
 third. 3. The months of Auguft and 
 
 Sep-
 
 LYONS. 
 
 September are moft fatal to infants and 
 children, December and January to thofe 
 of ten years and upwards. 4. More 
 boys than girls die from birth till ten 
 years, and more girls than boys from 
 ten to twenty. 5. Four- ninths die be- 
 fore the twentieth year. 6. Females, who 
 have attained the age of fixty, generally 
 live longer than men, who have attained 
 . the fame age ; but more men than 
 women have completed their century. 
 7. Longevity prevails moft in the cloifter. 
 $. The crifls of climatenc years is un- 
 fupported by fact. 9. The proportion 
 of births is as one to feventy-two. 
 
 10. The yearly average of births for 
 1770, 1774, was 5560, which, multi- 
 plied by thirty-four, gives 189,040. 
 
 1 1. The annual average of burials, dur- 
 ing the fame years, was 4100, which, 
 multiplied by thirty- two, is 131,200. 
 From circumftances incident to moft 
 large towns, this ftatiftical writer re- 
 
 L 4 duces
 
 LYONS. 
 
 duces the average of births to 5000, and 
 increafes that of burials to 4666. Thefe 
 terms, multiplied as above, give, refpec- 
 tively, 170,000 and 149,^12, of which 
 the mean term 159,656, is, perhaps, not 
 very remote from the actual population. 
 In Lyons many are the public ob- 
 jects deferving of notice. I merely hint 
 at fome of the moft confpicuous. The 
 rows of buildings, along the quays of 
 the two rivers, though not magnificent, 
 are well entitled to the epithet bandfome. 
 The Place des Terreaux, a (lately fquare, 
 is chiefly diftinguimed by the hotel de 
 ville, which connoifleurs reckon inferior 
 only to the Stadthoufe of Amfterdam. 
 It is in the form of an oblong fquare, 
 with a wing 430 feet long on each fide 
 of the front. The middle of the latter 
 is crowned with a cupola, and the great 
 gate adorned with columns of the Ionic 
 order. In the large hall is a feries of 
 paintings of the fovereigns of France/ 
 
 The
 
 XYONS. 153 
 
 The ceiling, too, is covered with paint- 
 ing but figures over head are never 
 viewed to advantage, and therefore, had 
 better never appear. The two curious 
 brazen tablets, exhibiting a fragment of 
 the harangue pronounced by Claudius 
 in the fenate, when he moved that mu- 
 nicipal privileges fhould be extended to 
 his native city, are preferved in the vef- 
 tibule. A copy of their contents may 
 be found in Thicknefle's Tour. It is 
 fuppofed that the whole fpeech was en- 
 graved as a token of the gratitude of the 
 inhabitants. On the great ftair-cafe is 
 reprefented the deftruftion of Lyons by 
 fire, a cataftrophe which Seneca deplores 
 with his ufual quaintnefs una nox fuit 
 Inter urbem maximam et nullam. 
 
 The place de belle cour is a large and 
 fplendid fquare, with a grove on each 
 fide, and an admired equeftrian ftatue 
 of Louis XIV. in the centre. Along 
 
 the
 
 154 LYONS. 
 
 the fides of the pedeftal are the figures 
 of the Rhine and Saone, alfo in bronze. 
 The cathedral, dedicated to St. John, 
 is an ancient pile, better lighted than 
 moft Gothic edifices. The clock, ori- 
 ginally conftructed by Nicholas Lippius 
 o Bafil 1598, and repaired and im- 
 proved by NouriJfoTi) an ingenious 
 watchmaker of Lyons 1660, difplays a 
 cock which flaps his wings thrice and 
 crows twice at every hour, an angel 
 walking forth to falute the virgin, the 
 Holy Ghoft gliding from above, and God 
 the Father beftowing benediction ! The 
 archbifliop has the title of primate, with 
 a revenue of 150,000 livres. The canons 
 of St. John are counts of Lyons, muft 
 prove fixteen quarters of nobility, wear 
 a crofs of enamelled gold, furmounted 
 with eight points and four coronets, and 
 are little anxious to be reminded of the 
 humble deportment of the early Chrif- 
 tians. 
 
 When
 
 LYONS. 155 
 
 When the abbe de Villeroi, who had 
 made many unfuccefsful attempts to be- 
 come one of their number, was ap- 
 pointed by the king to the archbifhopric, 
 they waited upon him with the ufual tri- 
 bute of refpeftful compliments. While 
 he received them with courtefy, he could 
 not help remarking, that thejlone which 
 the builders refused was become the 'head 
 
 / -' 
 
 of the corner. Their fpokefman inftantly 
 replied, This is the- Lord's doing^ it is 
 marvellous in our eyes. 
 
 The other religious buildings are 
 fourteen parifh churches, four priories, 
 and twenty monafteries and nunneries. 
 
 The hofpitals and charity work-houfes 
 are faid to contain nearly one fixth of the 
 population. The hotel-dieu, a princely 
 building, with a fuperb dome, and the 
 chief charity houfe, are fupported by 
 the produce of two ferry-boats which 
 ply between the city and Dauphiny.
 
 LYONS. 
 
 The ftated fare is but one fol ; yet 
 from 1200 to 1500 livres will be col- 
 le&ed on a funday or holiday. I failed 
 not to vifit the hotel-dieu, a theme of 
 ceafelefs admiration in France. The 
 kindly and pious nurfing of the fasurs 
 de la cbarite y one of the few orders of 
 nuns which humanity will refpect, may 
 foothe the bed of languifhing ; but the 
 cleanlinefs and comfortable accommoda- 
 tion of the wards by no means corre- 
 fpond to the grandeur of this edifice. 
 The patients lie two or three in a bed, 
 and furrounded by coarfe woollen cur- 
 tains and ofFenfive odours. 
 
 The theatre, fpacious and highly de- 
 corated, is faid to furpafs thofe of Paris. 
 The prefent company of players are in 
 favour with the public. I faw them per- 
 form once, and had no defire to fee 
 them, again. It may be prejudice or 
 want of tafte but French acting very 
 feldom pleafes me. 
 
 The
 
 LYONS. 157 
 
 The academy of Sciences, Belles Let- 
 tres, and Arts, eflablifhed by letters pa- 
 tent 1758, preferves a tafte for literature 
 and philofophy in the gayeft provincial 
 town in France. A rage for routes and 
 gaming is very prevalent among the 
 higher ranks, and all are anxious to cul- 
 tivate the graces and accommodations of 
 polifhed life. Even the gentlemen fport 
 their parafols in crofiing the ftreets. 
 The rigid moralift may declaim, and 
 cenfure the growing effeminacy of the 
 age ; but the trim Lyonnois may remind 
 him that the fun-fkreen was known in 
 Perfepolis of old, and has been found 
 traced upon a Tufcan vafe. 
 
 The operative, and by far the largeft 
 clafs of citizens, are employed in the 
 fedentary labours of the loom, in pre- 
 paring thofe filks and filver fluffs, thofe 
 laces and velvets, which are admired 
 throughout Europe. 
 
 The
 
 IjS LYONS. 
 
 The yearly quantity of raw filk im- 
 ported, exclufive of 1200 bales front 
 Languedoc and Provence, has been, for 
 fome time paft, averaged at twenty mil- 
 lions of pounds weight. About ten 
 years ago, there were 2000 filk flocking 
 frames, which were fuppofed to produce 
 1500 pairs a day, at the medium price 
 of nine livres a pair. This branch be- 
 gan to flourifh only in 1750, and already 
 feels the baneful influence of fifcal inter- 
 ference. A fpecial regulation, too, wor- 
 thy of the dark ages, precludes the in- 
 tervention of female hands. The filk 
 weavers rife early, and work late ; yet 
 earn fcanty wages, and often impair 
 their health. Vaucanfon's mode of 
 twitting the filk is very generally 
 adopted. 
 
 The works in lace rival thofe of every 
 country. From this department the 
 women are not excluded j and, of the 
 
 20,000
 
 LYONS. 159 
 
 20,000 individuals employed in embroi- 
 dery, 6000 are females. 
 
 Here fancy is racked and exhaufted 
 in conceiving new and elegant defigns; 
 and the pattern-drawers are often allowed 
 the benefit of country recreation, to re- 
 ftore their jaded fpirits. 
 
 Pit-coal is now pretty generally ufed 
 in Lyons. The fmell is fenfibly ofFen- 
 five to a ftranger and I am convinced 
 that continental people do not aflecl: 
 delicacy when, on their arrival in Eng- 
 land, they give it a place in their lift of 
 grievances. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Lyons arc 
 furnaces or kilns, in which coal-dull is 
 reduced to coak (charbon defottffre) 
 In this ftate it is ufed not only as char- 
 coal in the manufactories, but frequently 
 as fuel in private families. 
 
 The junction of the two rivers is, by- 
 no means, fuch a marvellous phenomenon 
 as frad been reprefented two flreams 
 15 unite
 
 l6o LYONS. 
 
 unite with fome degree of agitation, and 
 that is all. A fmgle wave in the ocean 
 is twenty times more fublime. But it is 
 part of the French characler to give im- 
 portance to trifles, and always to boaft 
 in the fuperlative degree. Yet, if the 
 fober obferver find no unufual conten- 
 tion of billows, he will not fail to re- 
 mark the contrail of flow and rapid pro- 
 grefs, previous to the blending of the 
 rivers; and the claflical fcholar will re- 
 call with fatisfadion the MITIS Arar 
 of Lucan, and the Rbodanus CELER of 
 'Tibullus. In more downward days Arar 
 was defigned Sangona, becaufe ftained 
 with the blood of chriftians maflacred in 
 the amphitheatre. If this be the true ety- 
 mology, it was unknown to Marcellinus, 
 who mentions Sauconna as the provincial 
 appellation. Its carp are reckoned the 
 mod delicious in France. 
 
 Of .eminent characters, natives of 
 iSidonius Apollinaris deferves com- 
 memoration
 
 LYONS. l6l 
 
 memoration. His panegyric of the Em- 
 peror Majorian conveys a curious picture 
 of the modes of drefs and combat of 
 the Gauls, during the fifth century. 
 But a more honourable claim to regard 
 than nine books of epiftles and four 
 and twenty pieces of poetry, is the re- 
 lief which he afforded to thoufands of 
 the indigent during a year of famine. 
 Even from remote corners of Gaul the 
 needy repaired to Clermont, and par- 
 took of his charities. 
 
 The abbe Terraffon is advantageoufly 
 known by his judicious and elegant re- 
 vifion of Diodorus Siculus. His difler- 
 tation on Homer's Iliad is cold and 
 whimfical ; but his moral romance en- 
 titled Sethos, though fprinkled with pe- 
 dantry, fhould cover his literary fins. 
 Like fome other philofophers, he argued 
 in favour of the fyftem of Law, the 
 financier, tafted of its tranfient benefits, 
 and, when the bubble burft, again funk 
 M, into
 
 l6l LYONS. 
 
 into retirement without a figh. Me 
 voiltiy faid he, tire cT affaire jc revivrai 
 de peu cela meft plus commode. They 
 xvho knew him, knew he was fincere : 
 for his character was marked by a love 
 of tranquillity and much apparent ftoi- 
 cifm and funplicity. His brothers, An- 
 drew and Gafpar, were diftinguifhed 
 for pulpit eloquence, and his relations, 
 Mathew and Antony Terraflbn, acquired 
 celebrity at the bar and from their wri- 
 tings on jurifprudence. An enviable 
 union of talents and virtue feems to 
 have been hereditary in the family. 
 
 De Boze, an eminent fcholar and an- 
 tiquary, collected many rare and very 
 curious books. 
 
 Jacob Spon^ an able and fludious phy- 
 fician, published an account of his tra- 
 vels in Italy, Greece, Dalmatia, &c. an 
 efteemed hiftory of Geneva, and fome 
 leirned tracts, which evince his ardour 
 of antiquarian refearch. 
 
 The
 
 LYONS. 163 
 
 The genius of Chaxelles delighted in 
 mechanics and other branches of natural 
 philofophy. He projected the naviga- 
 ting of gallies upon the ocean, meafured 
 the pyramids of Egypt, and afcertained 
 that their four fides exactly faced the 
 four quarters of the globe. 
 
 De Lagny^ the famous mathematician* 
 was the friend of lettered men, and 
 the father of the poor. Though much 
 addicted to fevere ftudy, he had con- 
 tracted no harmnefs of manners, and 
 was of an uniformly cheerful difpofition* 
 When incapable of recognizing the fea- 
 tures of a fingle friend, and funk in fi- 
 lence, Maupertuis abruptly alked him 
 the fquare of 12; 144, faid he, and 
 expired. 
 
 Jean Trucbet^ furnamed Father Sebaf- 
 lian, was reputed the firft mechanician 
 and engineer of his country. Though 
 vifited by crowned heads, and carefled 
 by genius and fortune, he preferred hia 
 M 2 primi-
 
 164 LYONS. 
 
 primitive fimplicity of manners and at- 
 tachment to the Carmelite order. Among 
 his ingenious inventions was that of a 
 machine for tranfplanting full grown 
 trees. 
 
 Claude Francois Meneftrier> a jefuit and 
 profound erudit, difplayed very uncom- 
 mon powers of memory. When Chrif- 
 tina of Sweden patted through Lyons, 
 ihe caufed write and pronounce 300 
 words, the moft whimfical that could 
 be imagined : and Meneftrier repeated 
 them all, firft in the written order, and 
 then in any order agreeable to the com- 
 pany. 
 
 Jacques Stella, a celebrated painter, 
 pafled great part of his life at Rome. 
 On account of his well known probity, 
 a quarter of that city was entrufted to 
 his care. Having refufed to open the 
 gate to a troop of debauchees at an 
 untimely hour, he was fentenced to a 
 long imprifonment on the evidence of 
 
 wretches
 
 LYONS. 165 
 
 wretches whom they had fuborned. Du- 
 ring his confinement, he painted on the 
 wall, with a bit of charcoal, the virgin, 
 holding the infant in her arms. This 
 figure long attracted the public notice- 
 Cardinal Barberini honoured it with 
 a vifit, and the prifoners ftill have a 
 lamp burning, and offer up their prayers 
 at the obliterated fhrine. Stella's inno- 
 cence being foon recognized, he was 
 honourably releafed, and his accufers 
 publicly puniflied. 
 
 Nicholas Andry^ a celebrated phyfi- 
 cian at Paris, contributed during forty 
 years to the Jour?ial des Savant, and is 
 reported to have affifted the literary la- 
 bours of Window, the anatomift. 
 
 It is related of Garin, the wine mer- 
 chant, who lived in the reign of Lewis 
 XI, that in the wreck of an ample for- 
 tune, he maintained his good humour 
 and unfullied integrity, courted the 
 mufes, and became a fuccefsful imitator 
 pf the Proven9al poets. 
 M 3
 
 CHAR VII, 
 
 FROM LYONS TO AVIGNON, 
 
 $tb. Feb. As the coche d'eau was de- 
 tained by the flooded ftate of the river, 
 we bargained with a voiturin, at the 
 rate of fifteen {hillings a place ; and he 
 engaged to convey us in his coach to 
 Avignon in four days, and not to admit 
 more than four paflengers. The dif- 
 tance is reckoned forty-eight leagues. 
 
 Monfieur de S- , with whom we had 
 
 contracted an acquaintance at the table 
 d'hote, very obligingly agreed to keep 
 us company, though his firft intention 
 was to have waited for the barge. This 
 young gentleman, who had travelled in 
 England, joined to a various and eafy 
 converfation a moft engaging and un- 
 
 affecled
 
 FROM LYONS, &C. 167 
 
 affected politenefs. In the courfe of 
 thefe journies I have more than once 
 regretted that there (hould be fo little 
 reciprocation of manner between the 
 French and Britifh. By mutual con- 
 ceflions and mutual adoptions, the cha- 
 racters of both might be affimilated and 
 rendered truly captivating. 
 
 We took our feats after breakfaft, 
 entrenched among huge bales of goods, 
 to which our trunks and portmanteaus 
 feemed as cock-boats to men of war. 
 Our conductor, with his long goad and 
 bafhaw countenance, fet his mules off 
 at a hard trot ; but he and they quickly 
 fettled at a fober pace. 
 
 The ftone bridge, which connects the 
 populous village of la, Guillotlere with 
 the city, prefents a fenfible convexity to 
 the river, is 1300 feet in length, and 
 confifts of twenty arches, but threatens 
 decay, and is totally devoid of elegance. 
 M 4 La
 
 168 FROM LYONS 
 
 La Guillotiere, ftridly fpeaking, is 
 in the territory of Dauphiny, but has 
 been adjudged a dependency of the Li- 
 onnois, upon the principle that the river 
 flowed upon the other fide of it. 
 
 It was in a walk adjoining to this fub- 
 urb, that Marivaux had his myfterious 
 interview with a dwarfifti old man. ^ 
 One evening, in a coffee houfe, when 
 more unfortunate than ufual at play, 
 his attention was attracted by the piercing 
 eyes of a diminutive old man, whofe 
 countenance interefted him, and feemed 
 to invite to converfation. Perceiving 
 that Marivaux was on the point of ad- 
 dreffing him, he made him a refpecTful 
 bow, and quitted the room. The au- 
 thor of Marianne dogged the ftranger 
 to the walk, crofTed his path as if by 
 accident, and faluted him politely, with- 
 out, however, extorting a fingle fyllable, 
 or preventing his almoft immediate dif- 
 parition. Next day, after having fruit- 
 
 lefsly
 
 TO AVIGNON. 169 
 
 lefsly fearched for him in various quar- 
 ters of the town, he met with him on 
 the fame fpot, muftered up all his refo- 
 lution, and requefted he might be al- 
 lowed to walk along with him, were it . 
 only for a few minutes. / know you^ 
 Monjteur de Marivaux, faid the ftranger, 
 with a fmile ; and you may be ajjiired 
 your attempts to get acquainted with me 
 yeflerday paffed no( unobferved. But all 
 fuch attempts, at leaji for the prefent, are 
 vain. How, Sir, replied Marivaux, a 
 little warmly, JJjall I have the honour of 
 being known to you, and you refufe to 
 Nay, be calm, interrupted the other, / 
 do know you, Sir, 1 knew your father, 
 and what will fur prize you more, I know 
 your errand to Lyons, and the caufe of 
 your prefent chagrin. But reafons, which 
 J am not at liberty to difclofc, require that 
 our converfation Jhould end here. I ajk 
 pardon, returned Marivaux, but fincc 
 you know me, may I not at leajl hope~ 
 
 Hopes
 
 FROM LYONS 
 Hopes and intreaties arc alike vain Be- 
 ware even of following me, left youjhould 
 injure both of us, without gratifying your 
 curiofity In the fmalleft point. Let itfuf- 
 fice that you intereft me, and that it will 
 one day depend upon yourfelfto be convinced 
 of the truth of my ajfertion. Farewell^ 
 then, my dear Marivaux continue to 
 cultivate literature and, above all, pre- 
 ferve your honour. Believe me, on the 
 word of a gentleman, whatever my fate 
 may be, I am determined to fee you again 
 before you die. Once more adieu the 
 people begin to remark us / may no lon- 
 ger be feen upon the walk. With tliefe 
 words he abruptly broke off, leaving the 
 anxious inquirer petrified with aftonifti^ 
 ment. To no purpofe did he inquire 
 
 at all the inns, coffee-houfes, and places 
 of public refort nobody had feen or 
 heard of fuch a perfon. The entertain- 
 ing novelift lived forty years after this 
 fingular adventure, and maintained to 
 
 his
 
 TO AVIGNON. 
 
 his laft hour, that his diforder could not 
 be pronounced mortal, until the little 
 old gentleman of Lyons fhould make 
 his appearance. 
 
 Before proceeding further, we were 
 joined by our fourth companion a 
 German, travelling fouthward upon 
 bufmefs. 
 
 At St. Fonds^ the fir ft poft from Ly-* 
 
 ono, Monfieur de S and I fallied out, 
 
 and commenced a fmart walk ; but a 
 fudden fhower induced us to enter a hut 
 by the way-fide, Here we were politely 
 received by two damfels, plying the 
 diftaff. Spinning wheels are hardly 
 known in Dauphiny, which, however, 
 is famous for its fine yarn. 
 
 Through St. Symphorlen d'oxon, or 
 St. Sapborin, the fecond poft village, and 
 noted for poft-afles, which trip nimbly 
 along. In cold latitudes, the long eared 
 ^nimal degenerates, and feldom moves 
 with alacrity. 
 
 The
 
 1J2 FROM LYONS 
 
 The Gere, upon which this village 
 Hands, turns feveral flour mills, and 
 others employed in the man f ufadure of 
 paper and fword blades. 
 
 For nearly fifteen miles, we moved 
 on a rough uneven road, and over a 
 country abounding in hills and ftones, 
 yet producing the mulberry, and enli- 
 vened by the noble ftream, whofe abrupt 
 and wooded banks mud gratify every 
 lover of rural beauty. 
 
 Every now and then we pafTed 
 carts, laden with bales of cotton, from 
 Marfeilles, and deftined to traverfe the 
 kingdom to Rouen. The commodity is 
 often reconveyed to the fouth in a ma- 
 nufa&ured ftate. 
 
 Pray look at that bottfe, faid M. de S.~ 
 
 for it Is the dwelling of a nobleman. N& 
 
 roturler is entitled to battlements over the 
 
 gateway. In fact, had it not been for 
 
 thefe faid battlements, I ihould not have 
 
 diftinguifhed it, and could not help ex- 
 
 8 claiming,
 
 TO AVIGNON. 173 
 
 claiming, la mafure de Don Thomas de 
 Xarall -dye, replied my companion, 
 Le Sagejhould not have placed hisfcenery 
 or bis manners beyond the Pyrenees. Un- 
 lefs in the neighbourhood of large 
 towns, I have fcarcely feen one genteel 
 country feat in France. My fellow tra- 
 veller readily admits the fact, and af- 
 cribes it to a pafiion for mixed focieties, 
 which feems to make part of the national 
 character, to the abfurd ftigma attached 
 to the term provincial, and to the po- 
 verty of many of the landholders. 
 
 Vienne, grey and irregular, {landing 
 on the Rhone and Jere, and, partly, 
 furrounded by rocky hills, had a pic- 
 turefque effect in the dufk. Our late 
 arrival prevented us from vifiting the 
 cathedral, amphitheatre, obelifk, tri- 
 umphal arch, and the more imperfect 
 remains of Vienna Alhbrogum, one of 
 the moft confpicuous colonies of Gaul, 
 a feat of learning and of the mufes, and 
 
 honoured
 
 174 tROM LYONS 
 
 honoured with the privilege of having 
 its citizens aflbciated with fenators. As 
 the literati of old were babbling egotifts^ 
 we need not be furprifed that Martial 
 fliould notice this- city with much felf- 
 complacency. 
 
 Fertur babtre meos, Jt vera ejt fama, lilellos t 
 Inter deliciaj t pulcbra 
 
 The prefent walls are faid to defcribe 
 a circumference of four Englifh miles. 
 Some activity is difplayed in the manu- 
 facture of filks, ratteens, and cutlery 
 wares. The Jere is reputed to be pecu- 
 liarly adapted to the tempering of fleel ; 
 and the fword blades of the place have 
 acquired a reputation, though not pro-* 
 verbial, like thofe of Toledo. 
 
 As the waiter peremptorily refufed us 
 fire for the bed-rooms, alleging there 
 was no timber in the houfe, and Mon- 
 fieur de S - ilrongly fufpe&ed her 
 veracity, he flyly purloined fome fag- 
 
 gots,
 
 TO AVIGJtfON. 175 
 
 gots, and bellows into the bargain. Yet 
 fuel has become rare in Dauphiny, owing 
 to the intricacy and abfurdity of the 
 foreft laws, which, precifely in propor- 
 tion to their intricacy and abfurdity, 
 have contributed to the general licence. 
 Where communities have a right of 
 cutting, each individual has fnatched 
 what lay firft in his way, regardlefs of 
 the wants of futurity ; and no tribunal 
 has been found hardy enough to enforce 
 regulations which prefcribe to landhold- 
 ers the complicated details of managing 
 their forefts, under the mofl grievous 
 penalties. A proprietor, who thins his 
 forefts at his pleafure, is liable to have 
 the whole confifcated, and to a fine of 
 3000 livres ; repetition of the acl fub- 
 jectshim to banifhment, and the burning 
 of his own trees, to death ! Nor is this 
 the only province in France, where want 
 of timber begins to be ferioufly felt. 
 As the woods diminifh, and population 
 
 and
 
 176 FROM LYONS 
 
 and manufactures increafe, recourfe rnuft 
 be had, however reluctantly, to coal, 
 of which large magazines remain yet 
 unopened. 
 
 Water, our next demand, was alfo* 
 refufed -apparently from pique. 
 
 6tb. Started about four o'clock in the 
 morning. As none of us were much di- 
 pofed tamely to forego the fimple luxury 
 of warning face and hands, I fuggefted 
 that we fhould run to the door, bawling 
 out au feu au feu vite de Veau. The 
 ftratagem fucceeded, and our complaifant 
 attendant, fomewhat confufed in drefs 
 and mind, climbed the flair in humble 
 trepidation, and brought along with 
 her a copious pail of the cleanfing ele*- 
 ment. 
 
 This ludicrous little incident produced 
 no vifibie effects upon our German, 
 whom it was impoflible to fatiate with 
 deep. Pulling out his night-cap, with 
 great compoiure, he reclined his head 
 
 upon
 
 TO AVIGNOtf* 177 
 
 upon a fide of the carriage, atid allowed 
 no roughnefs of the way, nor capers of 
 the mules, to break his repofe. 
 
 On an eminence, nearly oppofite to 
 Empuy, ftands Gondrieux^ famed for its 
 highly flavoured fweet-wine, which fells 
 upon the fpot at fix guineas the hogf- 
 head. 
 
 Over flat ground, covered with fmall 
 flones. 
 
 Through Auberive^ a paltry village^ 
 two pofts from Vienne. Still the coun- 
 try appeared rugged, though not defti- 
 tute of picturefque beauty. 
 
 At Les Peages de RoJJillion, our dining 
 ftage, we remarked three coflfee-houfesj 
 which are, perhap3, three too many 
 for fuch an infignificant place. 
 
 The next poft and half* to St. Ram* 
 bcrt^ proved dull ; and darknefs over- 
 took us as we paced forwards to St. Val- 
 lier, Urfoli of the ancients, a fmall town, 
 fituated, they told us, in a fertile coun- 
 N trv.
 
 178 FROM LYONS 
 
 try. On alighting at the inn, we feated 
 ourfelves by the dining-room fire, in 
 company of the poft-mafter of Monteli- 
 mart and a French traveller. I was not 
 a little furprifed to find them warmly 
 engaged in political difcuflion. The tra- 
 veller fupported the caufe of republican- 
 ifm ; and the poft-mafler, after a feeble 
 defence of the monarchical fyftem, 
 changed the fubject of converfation. 
 
 Scarcely had we fecured a room with 
 three beds, when our ears were affailed 
 by thirty or forty tongues of pafiengers, 
 juft efcaped from the water diligence of 
 Lyons. An ample fupper was fpeedily 
 provided: but how all were accommo- 
 dated during the night, is a problem 
 which I cannot folve. 
 
 7/. Light dawned as we approached 
 Tain, or Tbein, Tegna of the Romans, 
 a little town, pleafantly feated at the bot- 
 tom of the hermitage-hill, celebrated 
 for its wine. The foil, formed of de- 
 
 compofed
 
 TO AVIGNON. 179 
 
 compofed granite, and heaped round the 
 plants, admits the concentration of heat 
 in the hollows, without allowing the 
 water to ftagnate. Great attention^ too, 
 is beftowed upon the choice and manage- 
 ment of the vine. A more funny ex- 
 pofure on the oppofite fide of the river 
 produces the cote-rotie. Thefe wines coft 
 from three to four livres a bottle upon 
 the fpot. About feven hundred hogf- 
 heads of the hermitage are produced 
 yearly. At Tain are the ruins of an old 
 caftle, while directly oppofite ftands the 
 fweet fmall town of 'Tournon^ on the de- 
 clivity of a hill, and defended by a tur- 
 retted fort, planted upon an ifland. In 
 fpite of the rawnefs of the morning, I 
 felt no fmall fatisfaction in contemplating 
 the moft romantic points of view we 
 have hitherto feen in Dauphiny. Yet 
 the river, with its rocky and hilly banks, 
 and houfes, churches, or decayed cha- 
 teaus fprinkled among the vines, confti- 
 N 2 tute
 
 l8o FROM LYONS 
 
 tute the leading features of the landfcape 
 from Lyons to Avignon. 
 
 In this diftrict a few of the lime-kilns 
 are lined with a hard black bafalt, which 
 foon vitrifies into a fmooth homogeneous 
 coating. This contrivance is flill more 
 common, I am informed, in the Viva- 
 rais. Should it not be adopted where- 
 ever the materials can be eafily procured ? 
 
 Crofled the Ifcre in a boat managed 
 by the moveable pulley a convenient 
 contrivance, though not always fafe, and 
 frequent upon the large rivers in France, 
 cfpecially where their rapidity precludes 
 the building of a bridge. The Ifere, 
 a rapid and muddy ftrearn, rifes in the 
 Alps, traverfes Dauphiny, and joins the 
 Rhone three miles above Valence. It 
 is the Ifara of the antients, and is thus 
 characterized by Lucan : 
 
 -Qfi gurgite du3m 
 
 Per tarn mxltafuo, jtam<s majoris in amnttn 
 Lap/us, ad aquoreas ncmen win ftrtulit tauten*. 
 
 Its
 
 TO AVIGNON. l8l 
 
 Its blacklfli hue is probably occafioned 
 by a mixture of foft fchiftus. 
 
 Valence ftands in a fine plain, two 
 leagues in breadth. Its regularly embat- 
 tled walls, and the abrupt calcareous 
 rocks upon the oppofite bank of the 
 Rhone recalled a faint picture of Avig- 
 non. It is noticed by the Romans, un- 
 der the defignations of Valentia Segalau- 
 norum^ and Civitas Valentinorum y was the 
 ftation of a colony, and is iuppofed to 
 have had its name from the ftrength of 
 its fituation. According, however, to 
 the popular tradition, the neighbouring 
 rocks were the haunts of Buard y a 
 doughty giant, who, having extermi- 
 nated the puny race of natives, begot 
 another more worthy of himfelf, and 
 who, from their prodigious ftrength, 
 gave name to Valence. The Dominicans 
 ftill exhibit the bones of Buard pro- 
 bably of the large wild ox of Gaul, 
 If not, why not produce a tibia or two 
 N 3 of
 
 l82 FROM LYONS 
 
 of his highnefs's immediate offspring? 
 or why, for ever, folemnly prac- 
 tice upon the ignorance of the peo- 
 ple? 
 
 As our muleteer was impatient to pro- 
 ceed, we had little leifure to examine 
 either the upper or lower half of the 
 town. The ftreets appeared to be nar- 
 row and dirty. St. John's church has 
 an air of antiquity, and pafles for the 
 remain of a Roman pantheon. The 
 univerfity is faid to be greatly on the 
 decline. 
 
 Valence is famous for its councils, and 
 infamous for the breaking of fmugglers 
 upon the wheel. 
 
 Little worthy of remark occurred in 
 the courfe of our next ftage to Paillaffe, 
 Umbenno of the itineraries, now a fhabby 
 village. From this to L'or;ol y or Lauriol y 
 we travelled in the dark, paffing the 
 Drome upon a bridge. 
 
 Lauriol
 
 TO AVIGNON. 183 
 
 Lauriol is a miferable townlet, with 
 a ruined caftle, and placed at the bot- 
 tom of a hill. All Is not gold that glitters. 
 We drove to the fign of the chariot d'or. 
 Our fupper confided of a fhoulder of 
 mutton and eggs Cato, a half ftarved 
 dog, had paid his refpeds to the former ; ' 
 and the latter, to fpeak like Dr. Johnfon, 
 were far from recent. Monfieur de S 
 in a dark pafTage, encountered an abbe 
 and a female friend. At a little diftance, 
 he had taken them for thieves, and 
 opened his table knife with fome trepida- 
 tion. The houfe and its tenants 'had 
 fuch a repulfive afpect, that we took 
 pofieffion of a room with four beds, and 
 barricaded the door. 
 
 8/16. At four o'clock, the hoarfe voice 
 of our conductor fummoned us to de- 
 part. 
 
 On refuming our journey we found 
 
 the road confiderably improved, and 
 
 frequently lined with walnut or muU 
 
 N 4 berry
 
 184 FROM LYONS 
 
 berry trees. The chefnut and fig are 
 alfo common, and acceflible to every 
 paflenger. Rice was formerly cultivated 
 with fuccefs, but was abandoned on ac- 
 count of the noxious exhalations from 
 the flooded grounds. In warm coun- 
 tries, the fea-coaft fhould be preferred 
 for the culture of this invaluable grain, 
 experience having proved that the water, 
 near the fea, may be foxmer let off, and, 
 without any prejudice to the health of 
 the inhabitants. Might not the moun- 
 tain fpecies, which requires little or no 
 flooding, be advantageoufly introduced 
 into the rotations of crop in fouthern 
 Europe ? Moft of the vineyards are in- 
 clofed, but the grain fields, and even 
 orchards, are deftitute of fences. . 
 
 The (harpnefs of the air and the plea- 
 fmg variety of landfcape had fo quick- 
 ened our pace, and diftraded our atten- 
 tion, that we left the coach far behind, 
 and found ourfelves hard upon Monteli- 
 15 mar,
 
 TO AVIGNON. 185 
 
 war, before we imagined we had pro- 
 ceeded half way. As we refted on a 
 parapet near the gate, we leifurely con- 
 templated the floping hills, frequent vil- 
 lages, and various culture on the weft, 
 all cheered by the morning fun. 
 
 Montdimar^ MoniUium Adheman^ a 
 fmall, but populous and trading town, 
 ftands upon an eminence, is wafhed, not 
 by the Rhone, as fome geographers af- 
 fert, but by the obfcurer dream of the 
 RobioU) and environed by a plain which 
 yields excellent wine. It has regular 
 walls and a citadel, and is ufually gar- 
 rifoned by two companies of infantry. 
 The ftreets are narrow, and roughly 
 paved. Near the town we found mafTes 
 of baialt and tripoli, though no regular 
 traces of a volcano have been difcovered 
 on this fide of the Rhone. 
 
 Our ftars call us for once upon a good 
 inn large, clean, and commodious-- 
 vet lacking two fmall conveniencies 
 
 hung
 
 l86 FROM LYONS 
 
 hung bells, and a temple to a certaiu. 
 Goddefs, whofe rites are performed in 
 France with little regard to decorum. 
 The great ones who have pafled this 
 way, and flopped at the inn, have their 
 names blazoned upon the ftair-cafe - 
 Jofeph II. and the Comte d'Artois being 
 the moft confpicuous in the lift, 
 
 As we waited dinner, Major R. of 
 the Laufanne militia, unexpetedly ancj 
 very agreeably furprifed us and, as he 
 was porting, gave us frefti accounts of 
 our Swifs friends. At table, we natu- 
 rally relaxed into merriment, and even 
 the German deigned to fmile. The 
 major purfued his folitary journey to 
 Provence, and our party followed baud 
 pajjlbiis <zquis. 
 
 We were fenfible of a confiderable 
 defcent in the courfe of a few miles. 
 The warmth of the afternoon, clear fun- 
 fhine, and brown complexions admo- 
 nifhed us of our latitude. Sauflure has 
 
 remarked
 
 TO AVIGNON. 187 
 
 remarked that the botanift from the 
 north here begins to recognize the ve- 
 getable produ&s of fouthern climes, fuch 
 as the Judas-tree, pomegranate, laven- 
 der, &c. Thefe, he obferves, are moftly 
 found upon calcareous rock, for delicate 
 plants and evergreens refift the cold bet- 
 ter on dry ftony fituations than in bot- 
 toms or argillaceous earths. Another 
 indication of a warm latitude, according 
 to naturalifts, is the blacknefs of the 
 hogs. Perhaps I might add a third the 
 broad brimed beavers and fhort petti- 
 coats of the women, the former for the 
 fake of fhade, and the latter for cool- 
 nefs. This coftume is not quite agree- 
 able to our notions of claflical elegance, 
 and our dreams of Arcadian fhepherd- 
 efles are at an end, when we obferve 
 thefe ruftic damfels picking up the dung 
 of horfes upon the high-way, for fuel. 
 BufFon, like a patriot philofopher, grave- 
 ly remarks that the fmoke of this ex- 
 
 cre-
 
 FROM LYONS 
 
 crememitious matter might be converted 
 into fal-amoniac. 
 
 Through Donzerre, a petty bourg, at 
 the foot of a hill, famous for its wines. 
 It gives the title of prince to the bifhop 
 of Viviers, who formerly had his mint 
 in the ftreet ftill called rargenterie. 
 
 Here the country opens into a plain, 
 ikirted on the eaft, by the lower hills of 
 Dauphiny, and to the weft by the Rhone* 
 beyond which rife the mountains of 
 Languedoc. In the midft of this plain, 
 whofe foil feems to be a mixture of fand 
 and quartzy pebbles, rifes a folitary caU 
 careous rock with a fiat top, impending 
 over the next fmall town in our way, 
 Picrre-latte, which is the fame as Pierre- 
 large. This place, too, is furroundcd 
 by puny walls, and has a fingular af- 
 pect. Some of the neighbouring far- 
 mers cultivate madder > - but this crop 
 fucceeds better a little further fouth. 
 
 Slept
 
 TO AVIGNON. 189 
 
 Slept at la Palud, a village, where tke 
 patois is fo prevalent that it was with 
 difficulty we could underftand or be un- 
 derftood. 
 
 gtb. Purfued our way by Montd-ragon^ 
 a fmall town, whofe name, fite, and an- 
 cient walls fmell ftrongly of romance." 
 Yet Ponce de Montdragon, if we can be- 
 lieve a troubadour, was a forbearing 
 hero. 
 
 * I faw him fall without breaking his 
 
 * lance. The equerry who overthrew 
 
 * him was mounted on a forrel horfe, fo 
 
 * meagre that you perceived the great 
 
 * vein of his neck. Ponce did not pique 
 
 * himfelf upon taking revenge, but went 
 
 * elfewhere to feek a new engagement.' 
 The whole paflage, which may be feea 
 in Mrs. Dobfon's account of the Trou- 
 badours, is a curious remain of the (tm- 
 ple irony of the 1 2th century. 
 
 Pafled Mamas, another infignificant 
 town, under a violent bize and fuch 
 
 clouds
 
 FROM LYONS 
 
 clouds of duft as confined us to the 
 coach. Over a portion of the Comtat 
 VenaiJJln, included between Dauphiny 
 and the principality of Orange. Many 
 of the olive trees, killed by the late frofts, 
 exhibited a melancholy fpeclacle. In 
 ordinary winters they preferve their ver*. 
 dure, and, even when attacked by the 
 froft, will fend up {hoots from the roots, 
 by which means truncheons are eafily 
 obtained for frefh plantations. The fort 
 moftly cultivated in the fouth of France 
 is the long leaved variety of olea Eu- 
 ropaa. A fat foil imparts luxuriance to 
 the tree, but the beft fruit and oil are 
 produced upon light, and efpecially cal- 
 careous grounds. Grain is nowife in- 
 jured by its made, and the fallen fruit 
 affords fufficient manure. 
 
 Through Piolen^ a large village, with 
 a priory, and fome filk manufactures. 
 
 Merely gazed, en paflant, upon the 
 triumphal arch, circus, aqueduct, baths, 
 
 and
 
 TO AVIGNON. 
 
 and temple of Orange. Our muleteer^ 
 who cared not for the fineft antiquities 
 in the world, and who had imbibed all 
 the obftinacy of his daily aflbciates, would 
 not make this place a ftage, for it did 
 not fuit his arrangements. I muft, there- 
 fore, beg leave to refer the curious to 
 Menards's excellent account of the tri- 
 umphal arch, in the 26th volume of 
 the Memoirs of the Academy of Infer ip- 
 tions and Belles Lettres^ to Father Bona- 
 ventura's Nouvelle Hljlolre d^Orajigc^ 
 and to the fecond volume of Swinburne's 
 travels in Spain. Orange is the Arau- 
 fio Cavarum and Araufio Secundanorum 
 of ancient writers. The .Cavari occupied 
 that diftricl: of Narbonnefe Gaul com- 
 prehended between Provence and Dau- 
 phiny, on the 1 left bank of the Rh6ne, 
 from the Durance to the Drome. The 
 other epithet refers to the foundation of 
 a colony of veterans of the fecond legion, 
 under the aufpices of Julius Csefar, in 
 
 the
 
 192 FROM LYONS 
 
 the year of Rome 708. Hence alfo the 
 defignation Oolonla Julia Secundanorum* 
 Cicero's mother was a native of Araufio. 
 Though greatly fallen from its former 
 grandeur, Orange is the feat of a biiliop, 
 and of an univerfity ; ftands in a plain 
 fertile in wine, corn, and faffron, at 
 three miles from the Rhone, watered 
 by the limpid rivulets of Egues and( 
 Maincs^ and drives fome traffic in filk. 
 Several of the churches and monafteries 
 were demolifhed or defaced by the rage 1 
 of the reformers. The town and its 
 fmall principality long acknowledged the 
 fovereignty of the houfe of Naflau, but 
 were ceded to France by the treaty of 
 Utrecht. 
 
 Between Orange and Courf&ezon, a 
 diftance of only three miles, the country 
 is reckoned unfruitful, and abounds with 
 thofe quartzy pebbles, rounded by at- 
 trition, which are fo prevalent in the 
 whole valley of the Rhone. 
 
 Cour-
 
 TO AVIGNON. 193 
 
 Courthe'ZQn, where we halted, is an 
 infignificant bourg, the birth place of 
 Saurin, the mathematician. Within a 
 mile and a half is a fmall fait lake, on 
 whbfe banks are found feveral maritime 
 plantsV 
 
 Re-entered the pope's territory and 
 crofled the Sorgue, which, ifluing from 
 the far-famed fountain of Vauclufe, dif- 
 ports in pure ftreams ere it mingle with 
 the Rhone. The Sorgue (Sulga) is, 
 probably, the Orge of Pliny, the S having 
 been dropt, as fome commentators al- 
 lege, by the careleflhefs of tranfcribers. 
 Eft in provincia Narbonnenfi^ I quote the 
 words of the Latin naturalift, nobillt 
 fons^ Orge nomine. In eo berbte naf* 
 cuntur in tantum cxpetlta bubus^ ut merjis 
 capltlbus eas quarant. 
 
 Adjoining to the bridge ftands the 
 
 town of Sorgue, alfo ftyled Pont de 
 
 Sorgue^ and correfponding to Vindalis of 
 
 the ancients, of inconfiderable fize and 
 
 o de-
 
 rt)4 FROM LYONS, &c. 
 decayed afpect, once the gay fummcr 
 refidence of Pope Urban V. and ftill 
 marked by a few towers of his palace, 
 fpared by the pride or pity of the Cal- 
 vinifts. 
 
 The fpires and battlements of Avig~ 
 non, frowning in the twilight, formed 
 the folemn termination of our journey.
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 
 
 AVIGNON. 
 
 A LINY, Strabo, and others flightly take 
 notice of Avemo^ or Avemo Cavarum^ 
 as one of the flourifhing cblonies of Nar- 
 bonefe Gaul. The Burgundians wrefted 
 it from the Romans, the Franks from 
 the Burgundians, the Saracens from the 
 Franks, and Charles Martel from the 
 Saracens. It afterwards acknowledged, 
 though with partial interruptions, the 
 fovereignty of the Counts of Touloufe 
 and Provence, till 1348, when Pope 
 Clement VI. purchafed it of Jane, Queen 
 of Sicily, for the fum of 80,000 florins. 
 The climate of this city feems to par- 
 take of the inconftancy of its political 
 fate. The average heat of the year, in- 
 deed, is reckoned 54 of Fahrenheit's 
 o 2 ther-
 
 196 AVIGNON, 
 
 thermometer, and the mean quantity of 
 rain 20 inches ; the breezes from the 
 fouth, though, fometimes, infufferably 
 hot, are genial and warm ; the air is, 
 for the moft part, dry, and the fky fel- 
 dom obfcured. But the bize from the 
 north or north-eaft, and the cers, or 
 majlral) from any of the points between 
 north-weft, and fouth-weft, efpecially 
 foom north-weft, and by north, fweep 
 the plain with cold and violence. When 
 Auguftus, during his refidence in Gaul, 
 confecrated an altar to the Circian wind, 
 did he mean to propitiate its fury, or 
 folemnly atteft his gratitude for thofe 
 ftern, but falutary gales, which, when 
 they wafte the fruits of the earth, may 
 diflipate the feeds of languor, difeafe, 
 and death ? However this may be, as 
 Avignon ftands at the narrow end of a 
 great funnel, we need not be furprized 
 that ancient and modern obfervation 
 fhould concur in attefting the impetu- 
 ofity of the blafts to which it is inci- 
 dent
 
 AVIGNON. 197 
 
 dent that while the writers of Rome 
 advert to the Circian wind, Petrarch 
 fhould beftow upon the Rhone the epi- 
 thet vento/tffimuS) that Madame de Se- 
 vigne' fhould call it a devil of a river, 
 that the chancellor de 1'Hopital fhould 
 defcribe, without the aid of poetic fic- 
 tion, the ludicrous effects of a whirl- 
 wind, and that the fair citizen of the 
 prefent times who fought fhelter from 
 the fun beams of an April morning, 
 fhould fhiver at midnight in the month 
 of June. The natural funnel to which 
 I allude, is formed by an alpine range, 
 extending from the grand St. Bernard to 
 Montventoux, and by the correfponding 
 convergence of the heights of Auvergne 
 and the Vivarais. In the upper regions 
 of this ample valley, the currents of air 
 quietly expatiate in the moderation of 
 freedom, but, as their boundaries ftraiten, 
 they accumulate, and iflue with a force 
 proportioned to their confinement. 
 o 3 Hence
 
 198 AVIGNON. 
 
 Hence the Comtat VenaifTin is not 
 ly exempt from the rigor of a northern 
 wihter. The Rhone very lately, not- 
 withftanding its breadth and rapidity, 
 admitted the paflage of loaded carts, the 
 mercury in Reaumur's thermometer fell 
 to 12 below zero, and not only olive 
 trees, but more hardy vegetable produc- 
 tions perimed. The cold of 1776 was 
 more intenfe, though lefs durable ; and, 
 in the winter, 1754-5, the thermometer 
 indicated 22 under zero. 
 
 To compenfate thefe inequalities of 
 temperature, Avignon enjoys an airy 
 and delightful plain, 16 miles in length, 
 and 9 in breadth, bounded, on the north, 
 by Dauphiny and the principality of 
 Orange, on the eaft, by a chain of moun- 
 tains, on the fouth, by part of the fame 
 chain and the river Durance, and, on the 
 weft, by the Rhone. Though the foil 
 fkirting the latter be rather poor and 
 ftony, the greateft proportion of this le?
 
 AVIGNON. 199 
 
 vel country is fertile of rye, barley, 
 wheat, faffron, madder, filk, wine, and 
 oil. The farmers are averfe to the cul- 
 ture of oats, flax, and hemp, and pre- 
 fer fown clover and lucern to the fponta- 
 neous grades. 
 
 Without the wall, and oppofite to 
 Bartelaffe, once rofe a temple, of beau- 
 tiful marble, to Diana. For fome time 
 it was ufed as a powder-magazine, but 
 being ftruck with lightning on the 2Qth 
 of Auguft, 1650, it was blown up, and 
 the mattered fragments difperfed in the 
 town and river. 
 
 The city-wall, conftrudted of fine 
 free ftone, flanked, at diftances, with 
 fquare towers, and topped with battle- 
 ments, appears beautifully regular, but 
 is a wall of parade or police, and not of 
 defence. In vain did its founder, In- 
 nocent VI. urge its completion, in 
 vain did he levy 4000 Italians, and 
 preach an elegant crufade againft Cer- 
 o 4 voile,
 
 200 AVIGNON. 
 
 voile, a leader of banditti the infallible 
 pontiff fubmitted to treat the daring free- 
 booter with a fumptuous repaft and 
 40,000 crowns ! The fouth fide of the 
 wall is the leaft folid and elegant, and 
 now begins to crumble. On the north, 
 the line of building is interrupted by 
 the Doms, the bold projection of a cal- 
 careous rock, on which is feated the 
 papal palace. The alleys along the river, 
 formed by rows of elms, are the fum- 
 mer promenade, whilft thofe of the fouth 
 fide are moft frequented in winter. The 
 entire circuit may rneafure three En- 
 glim miles but much fpace is afligned 
 to religious buildings, gardens, and ho- 
 tels and, if we may credit common 
 report, the number of inhabitants has, 
 within thefe thirty years, gradually de- 
 creafed from 23,000 to 10,000. Very 
 different is the picture of the fecond Ba- 
 bylon exhibited by Petrarch : but, in his 
 day, the city had not recovered from 
 
 the
 
 AVIGNON. 201 
 
 the fiege of 1226, when its ramparts 
 and 300 turreted houfes were levelled 
 with the ground, when the inhabitants 
 ftill fmarted from a grievous contribu- 
 tion, when the compafs of the place 
 was more contracted and each houfe 
 contained a greater number of families. 
 Allowance, too, mould be made for one 
 of the genus irritablh vafum, whofe ro- 
 mantic fancy cherifhed with notions of 
 proud pre-eminence the land which gave 
 him birth, but tinged every tranfalpine 
 fcene with a melancholy made. 
 
 The fpven gates of Avignon are faid 
 to have a fantaftic reference to the fame 
 number of parifh churches, of hofpitals, 
 colleges, monafteries, and convents.* 
 Moft of the private houfes are well built, 
 and of excellent free ftone ; but the 
 ftreets are narrow and tortuous, and the 
 pavement, compofed of pebbles, is un- 
 commonly rough. Viewed at fome di 
 
 tance,
 
 202 AVIGNON. 
 
 lance, and efpecially by moonlight, the 
 cancellated wall and venerable fpires give 
 to the place an air of pidurefque fo- 
 lemnity ; yet, fo far as I recoiled, not 
 one fquare or range of building deferves 
 to be noted for elegance or grandeur. 
 Although the town's revenue be very 
 confiderable, not a public lamp illumi- 
 nates the maze of darknefs and even 
 the proteftant, bewildered in fome fo- 
 litary lane, hails with feelings of com- 
 placency a draggling image of the vir- 
 gin, ftuck upon a wall, and diftinguifhed 
 by a forry lantern. A fcanty popula- 
 tion, frequent and high winds, and fuc- 
 ceflive weeks of bright fun-mine are, 
 doubtlefs, highly favourable to the pro- 
 motion of cleanlinefs within and with- 
 out the gates ; but, as the citizens feem 
 to be little fenfible of thefe advantages, 
 the Rhone occafionally indulges them 
 in a general ablution. It is even re- 
 corded that, in 1343, the ftreets were na- 
 
 vigate^
 
 AVIGNON, 203 
 
 vigated by boats. If fo, the Durance 
 probably contributed to the inundation, 
 and the united dreams may have flooded 
 a considerable extent of country. A 
 folid wharf, for the accommodation of 
 fmall craft, and a prolonged fubftantial 
 embankment of ftone now prove efTecr 
 tual barriers againft fjmilar encroach- 
 ments. In fome other refpects, too, the 
 vigilance of the police is entitled to com- 
 mendation. A magiftrate is always in-r 
 waiting to liften to complaints preferred 
 by citizens or ftrangers, and corn, pur- 
 chafed in years of plenty, is, in times 
 of dearth, diftributed at prime coft, from 
 the public granary. The propriety of 
 fixing the tarifs of the more ordinary 
 marketable commodities, may be queC- 
 tioned, but the pradice originates in 
 good intention, and fo diftin&ly are the 
 current rates of each article exhibited, 
 (bat he who runs may read* 
 
 The
 
 204 AVIGNON. 
 
 The palace, a mafly pile, but devoid 
 of elegance, was founded by Benedict: 
 XII. and rofe, in fpite of the letters and 
 fonnets of Petrarch. Within its pre- 
 cincts the vice legate ftill retains -a few 
 apartments and the fhadow of a court. 
 One of the lower halls, referved for an 
 arfenal, contains 4000 ftand of arms> 
 various coats of mail, and obfolete wea- 
 pons of attack and defence. Another 
 low chamber ferves as a corps de garde, 
 and is occupied by 100 Swifs, habited 
 more like parrots than men, and hired 
 to move as gaudy pageants in the train 
 of delegated power. Moft of the wain- 
 fcoting of the juftice-hall and the cedar 
 of the chapel have been torn down for 
 fuel ; but the papal chair is ftill remarked 
 by its elevation above that of the car- 
 dinalsi Little elfe than the form of the 
 conclave can now be traced. 
 
 There are various concealments in 
 the thicknefs of the walls, and fubterra- 
 
 neous
 
 AVIGNON. 205 
 
 neous pafles appear to have multiplied 
 with the deeds of darknefs. One of 
 them, which extended under the Rhone, 
 was long fince blocked up to prevent the 
 incautious from exploring its recefTes. 
 Pope Urban V. from a miftaken or af- 
 fected notion of piety, caufed bury 
 fomewhere under the foundations of the 
 palace, a ftatue of Hercules, on the pe~ 
 deftal of which was the following in- 
 fcription : 
 
 Hercull Avennico 
 Deo potentl proteftori 
 
 C. Tufcillus 
 
 Pro civium Vennirorum fufcepto vofo 
 L. M. D. D. 
 
 b'J"-^ (t - j ijjcjr.-.i-j ^pif 
 
 The two archdeacons and the canons 
 of the cathedral have lodgings in the 
 palace. The archbifliop's houfe, detached 
 from the latter, but alfo on the Doms, 
 is a handfome plain building. 
 
 The
 
 The cathedral, wliich ftands withift 
 the walls of the palace, upon the fite, it 
 is alleged, of an ancient temple dedicated 
 to Hercules, prefents little worthy of 
 remark, if we except fome rich and de- 
 corated chapels, a filver altar, and a few 
 paintings by one of the Mignards. In 
 the chapel of Notre Dame de Chapckt^ is 
 difplayed the magnificent tomb of Pope 
 John XXII. who died 1334. On the 
 9th of March, 1759, when the body 
 was removed into its prefent receptacle, 
 it was flill entire,, and meafured five 
 feet the arms and the hands, the latter 
 covered with white fatin gloves, were 
 crofled over the heart a large golden 
 ring containing a fapphire, adhered to 
 the finger- the body was wrapped in a 
 tunic of purple filk that in an ample 
 cope, ftrewed with pearls and that 
 again in the lugubrious pall \ When 
 his holincfs refigned his breath, there 
 were, doubtlefs, many fons and daugh- 
 ters
 
 AVIGNON. 207 
 
 ters of poverty to whom the fum ex- 
 pended upon thefe unmeaning trappings 
 of the grave would have adminiftered 
 relief.. The charader of John XXII 
 was not lefs complex and bizarre than 
 this his laft coftume. He heard mafs 
 almoft every day, rofe at night to ftudy 
 and to prayer, publifhed medical trea- 
 tifes, and was eafily acceflible to fuch of 
 the faithful as demanded an audience; 
 but he believed in the abfurdities of en- 
 voutage and the incantations of demons, 
 delighted to amafs wealth from prolong- 
 ing vacancies in the ecclefiaftical depart- 
 ments, conftructed tables of the prices 
 of crimes, and, with dexterous artifice, 
 could inftigate and allay the fury of a 
 crufade, and enforce or retract a dogma, 
 as fuited the views of his chimerical and 
 fickle policy. A recent erection has 
 alfo re-placed the decayed monument of 
 Benedict XII. He introduced the ufe 
 of the tiara, and honed catholics believe 
 that
 
 3oS AVIGNON. 
 
 that he performed miracles after his 
 death. Certain it is, that previous to 
 his departure, he was gifted with no fu- 
 pernatural powers, and was confcious 
 of his oxvn inferiority of intellect. When 
 apprized of his election, he told the car- 
 dinals that their choice had fallen upon 
 an afs the only proof, it has been 
 wickedly obferved, that ever he gave of 
 a found judgment. The finking flation 
 of the Doms fronts the grey and fom- 
 brous rocks of Villeneuve, whilft rude 
 and age-worn towers, the filence of for- 
 faken chambers, occafionally broken by 
 the whittling of the blaft, the tolling of 
 the great bell, or the chanting of aged 
 priefts, awaken emotions of melancholy 
 grandeur * * * 
 
 There is a,curiofity connected with 
 fentiment which few neglect to gratify, 
 when gratification is attainable, So, 
 from the rock of contemplation, I de- 
 fcended to the church of the nuns of St. 
 
 Claire,
 
 AVIGNON. 209 
 
 Claire, merely becaufe in that church 
 at fix o'clock in the rooming of the 
 6th of April, 1327, Petrarch was firft 
 fmitten with the charms of his miftrefs. 
 " She was drefled," fays he, " in green, and 
 u her robe was embroidered with violets. 
 " Her features, air, and gait, announced 
 " fomething more than mortal. Her fi- 
 " gure was an aflemblage of delicate 
 " graces; her eyes beamed with tender- 
 ;< nefs, and her eye-brows were black as 
 " ebony. Her golden ringlets, interwoven 
 l< by the fingers of love, played upon 
 " fhoulders whiter than the fnow. Her 
 " neck was a model of elegant proportion, 
 " and her complexion animated by thofe 
 " native tints, which art in vain attempts 
 " to imitate. When me opened her mouth* 
 *' you perceived the beauty of pearls, and 
 " the fweetnefs of the rofe. The mildnefs 
 " of her look, the modefty of her deport- 
 " ment, the melting accents of her voice, 
 " baffle the powers of defcription. Gaiety 
 p ' " and
 
 2io AVIGNON* 
 
 C| and gentlenefs breathed around her, and 
 " thefe fo pure, and happily attempered* 
 " as to enchain every beholder in fend- 
 " ments of virtue ; for Laura was chafte 
 " as the dew-drop of the morn !" At fix 
 o'clock in the morning, and alfo upon 
 the 6th of April, this beautiful lady 
 breathed her laft. It is difficult to re- 
 ject this romantic coincidence of dates. 
 But fliall we, alfo believe that her depar- 
 ture was announced to Petrarch, in a 
 dream, with the fame accuracy as that 
 of his friend, the amiable bifhop of Lom- 
 bez ? If the fenfibility of the poet, trem- 
 blingly alive to gloomy anticipation, fre- 
 quently conjured up, in his waking 
 hours, fcenes of tender and fatal fepara- 
 tion, the fame dark picture might flit 
 before him in vifions of the night, and 
 the dying form of her he loved, whofe 
 delicate conftitution could ill fuftain the 
 preflure of domeftic afflictions, might 
 invade his repofe. Or, he might fancy 
 
 dreams
 
 AVIGNON* 211 
 
 dreams which never occurred, or give 
 to thofe which did the colouring of real 
 incident. 
 
 My next vifit was to the church of 
 the Cordeliers, a large and fimple edi- 
 fice of fine hewn (lone* Under its bold 
 vaulted roof, unfupported by pillars, are 
 feen the confpicuous monuments of Fo- 
 lard, the celebrated commentator of Po- 
 lybius, of the anti-pope Nicholas V. and 
 of the brave de Crlllon. But an obfcure 
 unadorned (lone, hardly to be diftin- 
 guifhed from the floor, indicates the re- 
 mains of Laura, and forcibly recalls the 
 pathetic truth that to this complexion 
 we mufl come at la/I. Without repeating 
 the circu'mftances relative to the difco* 
 very of this humble tomb, the fuppofed 
 verfes of Petrarch contained in the 
 leaden box, and the well-known lines 
 of Francis I. , it may fuffice to remark 
 that the native fimplicity of the narrow 
 
 houfe is more fuitable than the pomp of 
 p 2 marble
 
 312 AVIGNON. 
 
 marble to that beauty and virtue which 
 fhunned the glare of day, and will live 
 for ever in the impaflioned ftrains of 
 their faithful admirer. 
 
 The convent of Celeftins, a fpacioup 
 fquare, with covered galleries, and an 
 ample garden, was founded by Charles 
 VI. of France, who lived too long, fmce 
 he lurvived his reafon. This ftately 
 building is at prefent tenanted only by 
 a few old monks, and is to be fupprefled 
 on their demife. Meanwhile, their 
 venerable forms, (lowly moving in the 
 court or pafTages, fadden the features of 
 decay which characterize this papal city. 
 As they feem to conftitute an harmo- 
 nious family, perhaps the greateft curfc 
 that could be pronounced upon any one 
 of them would be ultimusfuorum moriatur. 
 In the choir of their church ftands the 
 monument of the anti-pope Clement VII. 
 whilft the tomb of St. Benexet figures in 
 the nave. The lives of popes and anti- 
 popes
 
 AVIGNON. 213 
 
 popes occupy their own (hare in the hu- 
 man ftory, but the memory of St. Be- 
 nezet, or little Benedict, is lefs known 
 to fame. When only twelve years of 
 age, and a fhepherd boy of Avillard in 
 the Vivarais, he requefted an audience 
 of Pontius, bifhop of Avignon, but was 
 difmifled by the fervants on account of 
 his vulgar and uncouth appearance. * 
 The prelate, who, from his balcony, ob- 
 ferved the piteous air of the youth, in. 
 vited him to make known his requeft. 
 May it pleafe your worfhip, faid Bene- 
 zet, an angel, laft night, enjoined me 
 to build a bridge over the Rhone, from 
 this city to Villeneuve. Verify your 
 aflertion, replied Pontius, by lifting that 
 flone, pointing to a mafs of rock fome 
 cubits fquare. The holy (tripling im- 
 mediately toffed it in the air like a mut- 
 tle-cock the miracle was published, and 
 the bridge, begun in 1177, was com- 
 pleted in the 1'pace of eleven years. 
 p 3 The
 
 214 AVIGNON. 
 
 The abbe A , who favoured me with 
 this intelligence, concluded in his fly 
 way, that fuch was the received tradi- 
 tion, but that he could not vouch for 
 all the particulars. And God forbid, 
 my dear abbe, that I {hould call for 
 your vouchers. But it may be proper 
 *o hint to amateurs in Romifli miracles, 
 that the above recital is brevity and mo- 
 defty, compared with the authentic record 
 which Sebaftian Caftrucci details in the 
 fulnefs of faith, and with circumftances 
 fomewhat differing from thofe juft men- 
 tioned. His preamble is too precious 
 to bear tranflation. In quefto anno fu 
 comminciata la fabrica del ponte d* A- 
 vignone sul Rodano^ e fiercbe Fiftoria ne 
 altretanto vera quanta maravigliofa, con- 
 uien riferirla come finceramente e defcritta 
 in lo proceffo autentico delta citta^ fatto In 
 prova del vero V anno medefimo* 
 
 The bridge, whatever may have been 
 its origin, now prefents the ruined frag- 
 ments
 
 AVIGNON. 215 
 
 merits of three and twenty arches, which 
 once oppofed the curve of a large circle 
 to the rapidity of the ftream. A dif- 
 pute having arifen between Innocent X. 
 and Louis XIV. refpecting the property 
 of the paflage, no toll was exacted, and 
 the fabric fufFered dilapidation without 
 repair. As a confiderable ifland, part of 
 which is called Plot and the other las 
 Bartelaffc, now divides the river into two 
 branches, a new and more permanent 
 communication might be effected from 
 this quarter of the Comtat into Langue- 
 doc. Benezet's chapel, in which he 
 was originally interred, projects from 
 one of the ftarlings. When his remains 
 were threatened with a vifitation from 
 the river in 1674, they were removed 
 entire, according to fome, and petrified^ 
 according to others. This latter fpecies 
 of apotheofis was not unfuitable to the 
 founder of a bridge. 
 
 P 4 The
 
 2l6 AVIGNON. 
 
 The convent of Celeftins likewife 
 contains a hideous production of the 
 pencil of Rene, the ingenious and be- 
 nevolent, but eccentric and too gallant 
 Count of Anjou. The reprefentation ia 
 that of his favourite miftrefs, as he took 
 her from the grave, when half confumed 
 by worms ! 
 
 The church of the Dominicans has a 
 noble vaulted roof, the plafter cieling 
 of which perfectly reiembles free-ftone. 
 Its baldachin is, likewife, much admired. 
 
 Near this church is the chapel of 
 the White Penitents, embellifhed with fix 
 admired paintings of Peter Mignard. 
 Fleury feems to afcribe the origin of 
 the penitentiary fraternities in Italy and 
 the fouth of France, to a tribe of wan- 
 dering Scots, who, in 1398, moved in 
 proceffion, wrapped in linen facks, with 
 large hoods covering the face, and wear- 
 ing crofles compofed of brick- duft, 
 blood, and oil. Their example diffufed 
 
 a rage
 
 a rage for long and wild pilgrimages, 
 and the folemn march of the day was 
 fucceeded by the indecent licence of the 
 flight. This compound fervor of enthu- 
 fiafm, hypocrify, and debauchery, gradu- 
 ally fubfided, and more regular and 
 chafte corporations were inftituted in 
 fome of the fouthern towns of Europe, 
 and recognized by the church. 
 
 In the maifon de miferlcorde is depofited 
 an ivory crucifix, one foot in length, 
 and, except the arms, of one piece. A 
 happy delicacy of execution appears in. 
 the features, tongue, nails, and drapery 
 about the wafte. A humane jailor fur- 
 nimed his condemned prifoner with 
 the ivory and utenfils. The culprit, 
 when dragged to the fcaffold, produced 
 this furpafling fample of his fkill, and 
 kneeling before it with ardent expref- 
 fions of devotion, excited the admiration 
 and pity of the multitude, who fhouted 
 for his pardon. The vice legate yielded 
 
 to
 
 2l8 AVIGNON. 
 
 to their importunate clamours, and the 
 object of his mercy pafled the reft of his 
 days free from reproach. 
 
 The univerfity, originally founded by 
 the Counts of Provence, but eftabliflied 
 and endowed 1303, by Boniface VIII, 
 has dwindled into a paltry fchool of theo- 
 logy; and the college of the Jefuits, 
 once fo renowned, has fhared in the me- 
 rited wreck of the order. 
 
 The three hofpitals are maintained 
 chiefly at the public expence. The la- 
 zaretto of Si. Rock, without, the walls, 
 the deftined receptacle of thofe infected 
 with the plague, has been allowed to 
 crumble. Thrice in the fame century 
 was Avignon vifited with peftilence. 
 That of 1334 appears to have differed 
 materially from the ordinary plague, 
 and was afcribed to the extreme heat 
 and drought of the feafon. The fkin 
 came off in fcales, and the people, ftruck 
 with a temporary frenzy, run along the 
 
 ftreets
 
 .AVIGNON. 219 
 
 ftreets, fcourging themfelves with whips. 
 More fatal was the contagion of 1 348, 
 when Laura yielded to its rage. Aa 
 hundred and twenty thoufand inhabi- 
 tants are faid to have perimed in three 
 months a ftatement which feems to be 
 as much exaggerated as that of the hun- 
 dred thoufand ftudents attracted to the 
 place fix years before by the munificence 
 and invitation of Clement VI. This 
 pontiff remained fhut up in his apart- 
 ments, which were purpofely heated by 
 large fires, and efcaped infection. Had 
 it been remarked at that period that the 
 extremes of heat and cold are alike ad- 
 vcrfe to the propagation of this dreadful 
 malady ? If the latter be connected 
 with putridity, a certain degree of heat 
 and moifture may be neceflary to its 
 diffufion ; and when the heat becomes 
 intenfe, the requifite humidity may be 
 deftroyed. Thin flices and fhreds of 
 raw meat are preferved in tropical coun- 
 tries
 
 220 AVIGNON. 
 
 tries by mere expofure to the fun's rays, 
 and a pope in Europe may, perhaps, be 
 guarded from contagion by retiring into 
 a hot-houfe. 
 
 When careful of his own perfon, Cle<- 
 ment was not unmindful of the interefts 
 of his people. Like a kind paftor, he 
 authorized every prieft to grant abfolu- 
 tion and plenary indulgence to the fick, 
 recompenfed the attendance of phyfi- 
 cians and nurfes, and purchafed the 
 champ fleuri) a large field, for the recep- 
 tion of the dead. In 1362, 17,000, 
 including nine cardinals, one hundred 
 bifhops, and many officers attached to 
 the papal court, were carried off between 
 the SQth of March, and the 25th of July. 
 Laftly, the plague of Marfeilles ex- 
 tended to Avignon, and, in fpite of the 
 pious and intrepid fervices of Bifhop 
 Achards, deprived it of 30,000 inhabi- 
 tants. From this blow it has not yet 
 recovered. Indolence, languor, and de- 
 
 folation
 
 AVIGNON. 221 
 
 folation pervade the ftreets. Few fitua- 
 tions are, naturally, more favourable to 
 the purfuits of trade and commerce : but 
 exorbitant duties are levied upon com- 
 modities the moment they pafs into the 
 French territory, and the multiplication 
 of church livings and lounging offices is 
 unfriendly to habits of regular. and per- 
 fevering induftry. The place, however, 
 ftill retains a name for fpun filks, for 
 gloves, which are clafled with thofe of 
 Paris, Grenoble, Vendome, and Mont- 
 pellier, and for morocco leathers, which, 
 in point of luftre, are not inferior to 
 thofe of Marfeilles or Strafburgh, but 
 cannot rival thofe of the Levant. 
 
 The vice-legate, as governor of the 
 city and Comtat, enjoys an annual falary 
 equivalent to ^".1500, is ufually an 
 Italian, continues in office five or fix 
 years, and looks to a hat or feme ftation 
 of dignity and emolument. His deci- 
 fion, in criminal cafes, is final, but, in 
 
 civil
 
 222 AVIGNON. 
 
 civil matters, an appeal is competent 
 from his tribunal to the court of Rome. 
 In virtue of an extenfion of his commif- 
 fion, granted by the pope, and confirmed 
 by letters patent, regiftered in the par- 
 liaments of the refpective diftrids, he is 
 allowed to exercife fpiritual jurifdiclion 
 in the ecclefiaftical provinces of Vienne, 
 Aries, Narbonne, and Embrun; but 
 muft previoufly declare in writing, that 
 he will, in no ways, infringe the liber- 
 ties of the Gallican church. The trif- 
 ling revenue accruing to the Pope from 
 church preferments in this diftrict is ex- 
 pended upon the fpot, and his govern- 
 ment is adminiftered with laudable mo- 
 deration. 
 
 The beauty of the Avignonnaifes is 
 nearly as proverbial as that of the Lan- 
 cajhire 'witches^ and would be fo with 
 more reafon, could the fair citizens ufe 
 rouge 'without abujing it. Some of the 
 more mode/1 prefer a daily agrement, 
 
 which
 
 AVIGNON. 223 
 
 which they are confident gives to the 
 complexion un colons frals et animL 
 The blooming helpmate of an apothecary 
 told me fans fa^on that fhe confidered 
 hearing mafs and taking a lavement as 
 indifpenfible duties. But her advice 
 might be interefled. 
 
 The traveller who tarries at Avignon, 
 may expect to enjoy the pleafure of a 
 fine day, and of delightful profpeds; 
 but will be fortunate indeed, if he can 
 fuperadd thofe of virtuous and confiden- 
 tial fociety. Far be it from me to pafs 
 unqualified and indifcriminate ftrictures 
 upon any community ; and among the 
 thoufands, who ftill refide within the 
 papal walls, I fhould be grieved to think 
 that honefty is an empty name. Yet 
 perfonal intercourfe has concurred with 
 the unbiafled reprefentations of indivi- 
 duals in eftablifhing the deplorable fact, 
 that amidft the frequent repetitions of 
 the folemn fummons to offices of devo- 
 
 tioo,
 
 224 AVIGNON. 
 
 tion, real or feigned bigotry, fneaking 
 finefie, and difregard to truth, reign tri- 
 umphant. Thus, too, is Rome a well 
 known feat of atheifm and chicane 
 and thus it will ever be, when idlenefs 
 takes place of induftry, when rewards 
 are held out to unworthy compliances 
 and talents for intrigue, when the ac- 
 commodations of confeffion and abfolu- 
 tion are of eafy accefs, when phantoms 
 are fubftituted for realities, and a childifh 
 mummery for the love of God and of 
 our fellow-men, Well, faid a fenfible 
 and affectionate friend, you have to pafs 
 
 fome months at Avignon, which JJjelters 
 the French renegade, and fqflers an un- 
 due proportion of monks and clergy. I 
 
 ftudied there myfelf, and am no Jiranger 
 to the char after of the inhabitants Be- 
 ware of forming intimacies, and recolleft 
 that the Catholics are there the JEWS. 
 The point of this parting exhortation 
 recurred with fmgular zeft when, upon 
 9 a fri-
 
 AVIGNON. 225 
 
 a Friday evening, a canon of the cathe- 
 dral politely offered to conduct me to 
 the fynagogue. The latter is (mail, but 
 neat, and mimics the diftribution of the 
 temple of Jerufalem. The chanting of 
 the Hebrew fervice is peculiarly grating, 
 but the compofed air of the worfhippers 
 betokens the fmcerity of devotion. The 
 women occupy an under apartment, and 
 have the fervice read to them in the 
 Provenal dialecT:, as few of them under- 
 ftand Hebrew. When I took the liberty 
 of afking one of them* why fo few of 
 her fex attended the fynagogue, fhe re- 
 plied that moft of them were occupied 
 with family concerns, and could fay 
 their prayers at home. Nor would I 
 willingly fupprefs the following trait. 
 Upon obferving an elderly man, to whom 
 thofe in the porch paid particular atten- 
 tion, I prefumed he was a rabbi but 
 was foon informed that he was a fimple 
 honed trader, who had lately paid the 
 Q_ amount
 
 226 AVIGNON. 
 
 amount of a bond of furety, which, ow- 
 ing to fome flaw in the deed, he might 
 have evaded with impunity. He is 
 nearly reduced to poverty, but has ac- 
 qujred additional rtfpect, and has pre- 
 ferved his peace of mind. His brethren 
 here, to the number of five or fix hun- 
 dred, are allowed to live cooped up in a 
 feparate and ill aired quarter of the town, 
 in confideration of repeated douceurs, 
 and upon condition that the men wear 
 orange or yellow hats, and the wo- 
 men flat caps, fluffed at the fides. Yet 
 it is generally allowed that they live 
 quietly, and that they are more exem- 
 plary than their neighbours in the dif- 
 charge of domeftic duties. Their modeft 
 inoffenfive deportment muft fenfibly af- 
 fect every feeling mind, and induce it 
 to fympathize with an unfortunate por- 
 tion of our fpecies, fo long branded 
 with epithets of the vileft abufe, fo often, 
 doomed to bleed at the fhrine of relent- 
 lefs fanaticifm, fo often goaded by per- 
 13 fccution
 
 AVIGNON. 227 
 
 fecution to gratify the avarice or the 
 caprice of princes. Among Jews, no 
 doubt, may be found ufurers, and men 
 of more acutenefs than delicacy in the 
 tranfa&ions of life, but, in a commer- 
 cial ftate of fociety, ufury ceafes to be 
 a crime, and they who flake their only 
 property at a more than ordinary rifk, 
 are well entitled to an advanced premi- 
 um. Depravity of the fenfe of honour 
 is an almoft neceflary confequence of 
 marked opprobrium and invidious fe- 
 gregation. Ceafe to ftigmatife a de- 
 graded clafs of beings admit them to 
 the equal rights of humanity, open to 
 their view other profpects than thofe of 
 mere lofs and gain, and then cenfure, 
 if you will, their dereliction of inte- 
 grity. The flave ftill groans under the 
 fanction of European laws the myriad 
 (hades of Indians are unappeafed muft 
 we alfo purfue with infamy and fcorn 
 the harafled remnants of a once diftin- 
 guiftied people ? 
 
 Q.2
 
 ( 228 ) 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 FROM AVIGNON TO BAREGES. 
 
 June 6fb t 1789. J- ms morning, after 
 an hour's hard tugging, we effected our 
 paflage acrofs the river, in fpite of a 
 flood and fierce bize. Villeneave les 
 Avignon, the landing place in Langue- 
 doc, a fmall town, but feated on a 
 rocky fhore, with forae large detached 
 buildings, has an impofmg afpecl: at a 
 diftance. The old caftle, perched on 
 Mont Sf. Andre, has been converted 
 into an hofpital for invalids. The con- 
 vent of Carthufians founded by Inno- 
 cent XII, is a fpacious edifice, richly 
 ftored with paintings and relics, and 
 contains the monument of its founder, 
 fomewhat defaced by the rage of the re- 
 formers.
 
 FROM AVIGNON, &C. 
 
 formers* The Jituation of your houfe y 
 faid a ftranger,. is delightful Yes, re- 
 plied the difciple of St. Bruno, in tht 
 eyes of paffengers. But I have feen 
 owners of lordly manfions, who might 
 truly employ fimilar language. The 
 pale anchorite and the liftlefs nabob 
 would pine in the heart of paradife. 
 Man hugs his dwelling, not becaufe 
 it is fplcndid or homely, but becaufe 
 it is the fcene of unaffcctedvirtue the 
 fcene with which he aflbciates his better 
 principles arid feelings. 
 
 The Benedictines are a more lufty or- 
 der than the Carthufians, and their abbey 
 here figures like a palace on a hill. The 
 fuperior was on a diftant vifit, and had 
 carried along with him the key of the 
 library. We found only one monk, who 
 railed at the progrefs of reafon and phU 
 lofophy, hard fuperiors, who threaten 
 to take with them the key of the abbey. 
 A few of the villas of the cardinals and 
 0^ 3 officers
 
 230 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 officers of the papal court ftill exift in 
 this corner of Languedoc. 
 
 As we wound flowly up hill, we lei- 
 furely furveyed Avignon, and her plains, 
 the checquered fcenery of Dauphiny, 
 Montventoux towering to 6000 feet, 
 and the diverfified afpect of Provence. 
 No fooner had we gained the height, 
 than the fore-ground appeared parched 
 and fomewhat difmal. The mulberry 
 trees had juft been ftript of their foliage, 
 moft of the olive trees had perifhed, and 
 confiderable tracts of land were untilled, 
 though fpontaneoufly producing the 
 evergreen and kermes oak, wild thyme, 
 lavendar, and box wood. During fome 
 milep, we. could difcern few traces of 
 habitations, until we began to defcend 
 upon the Gardon^ a fmall, but delightful 
 river, pure and azure as the iky under 
 which it flows. Rifmg among the Ce- 
 vennes, it mingles with the Rhone not 
 far from Beaucaire, warning down in 
 
 its
 
 TO BAREGES. 231 
 
 its courfe thin fpangles of gold, which 
 practifed fearchers difcover in the fand. 
 The occupation is by no means lucra- 
 tive, feldom yielding more than 24 fcls 
 a day, and frequently Jefs. Yet the 
 fame employment, obferves Buffon, 
 would have procured a Roman twenty- 
 five times the value of his fubfiftence. 
 An increafed quantity of this precious 
 metal is neceflarily attended with its 
 depreciation. Before the difcovery of 
 the new world, adds the eloquent hif- 
 torian of nature, there was really twenty 
 times lefs gold and filver in Europe than 
 at prefent, but commodities were pro- 
 portionably cheaper. What, then, have 
 we gained by additional millions ? The 
 burthen- of their weight. Having crofled 
 the river in a wherry, we ftopt at la 
 Foux, a poft-houfe, adjoining to the 
 Tillage of RemoulinSi 
 
 As our mules required reft, and no 
 poft-horfes could be procured, I re- 
 
 quefted
 
 2J2 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 quefted a light guide to accompany me 
 to the Pont du Gard^ and walked fmartly 
 about an Englifh mile and a half over 
 a fandy foil. At once the object of my 
 fearch ftarted into view in the grandeur 
 and beauty of bold defign and elegant 
 proportion. What a noble remain of 
 an aqueduct, which, winding in a courfe 
 of twenty-fix miles, conveyed water 
 from the fountains of Eure and Airan, 
 near Ufez, into the heart of Nifmes! 
 Conceive a triple bridge, of Tufcan ar- 
 chitecture, almoft entire, rifmg majefti- 
 cally between two high and fleep rocks, 
 which even the flood torrents have 
 fpared. The fquare maffes of which 
 this fabric is compofed, confift of porous 
 limeftone, containing a curious variety 
 of marine bivalves, and fomewhat fret- 
 ted by the rains and the blafts of ages. 
 Some of them meafure 20 feet in 
 length, and are joined, not by cement, 
 but by iron bands. The undermoft 
 
 tire
 
 TO BAREGES. 233 
 
 tire confifls of fix arches, the fifth of 
 which, 13 toifes in fpan, is the ordinary 
 paflage of the river. The length of this 
 firft bridge is 83 toifes. Eleven arches 
 which compofe the fecond, meafure each 
 56 feet in diameter, and 60 in height, 
 prefenting a range of 133 toifes and 2 
 feet. The third, or upper bridge, is 
 4 toifes high, 136 and 3 feet long, and 
 confifls of 35 arches which fuftain the 
 trough, or aqueduft, properly fo called, 
 and which meafures 5 feet in depth and 
 4 in width. The adjeclion of a modern 
 bridge, for the convenience of a high- 
 way, may offend the eye of an anti- 
 quarian, but is conftruded with ftrid: 
 regard to unity of defign, and may con- 
 tribute to preferve the original building. 
 The date of the latter no where occurs, 
 but the initials A. JE. A. have been 
 conjectured to denote AquaduQtu JElil 
 Adrlani. 
 
 Few
 
 534 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Few fcenes have more delighted me 
 than the fhaggy banks of the Garden, 
 fringed with olive and wild fig-trees, and 
 diftinguifhed by a grand, but eventful, 
 memorial of the Roman name. Such 
 arc the memorials which awaken our 
 early formed and magnanimous notions 
 of the genius and prowefs of a mighty 
 people which tranfport us more feel- 
 ingly than does the page of hiftory to 
 days of patriotifm and deeds of valour. 
 But our emotions why diiTemble are 
 darned with fadnefs. Here the labours 
 of years were employed to divert ftreams 
 from the fources of their native purity, 
 to the fanguinary exhibitions of the am- 
 phitheatre, and there a triumphal arch 
 rofe upon the field of groans, to publifh 
 to diftant ages that Rome was the dif- 
 turber of the world's peace, and the 
 butcher of countlefs thoufands. The 
 myriad hordes of the north at length 
 (hook her haughty empire, and levelled 
 
 it
 
 TO BAREGES. 235 
 
 it with the duft but empires have 
 emerged from her ruins, and the fplen- 
 did, but fatal dream of national aggran- 
 difement has harafled the repofe of ci- 
 vil fociety. 
 
 My little cicerone allowed me to me- 
 ditate in filence for, though a French- 
 man, he could fpeak only the patois* of 
 his province : but he procured for me a 
 {ketch of the bridge, the work of a young 
 and rude pencil, yet fufficiently refem- 
 bling to recall the object at any diftance 
 of time. The ftoney hillocks about Re- 
 moulins produce wine of a fuperior qua- 
 lity to that of the neighbouring plains. 
 Inequality of furface, it has been found, 
 is friendly to the vine Bacchus amat 
 colics* In dry ground, the grape yields 
 lefs juice, but more flavour fmall ftones 
 retain and reflect heat, aud thus is the 
 fruit more fpeedily and more perfectly 
 matured. Between this and Nifmes, 
 the country is fiat, and moftly planted 
 with low olives.
 
 2^6 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 The celebrated fountain of Nemaufut, 
 may juftify the etymology of Bullet 
 new (furpafling) andy^e (fource) though 
 the place probably exifted before its 
 fountain had attracted attention. The 
 leaft improbable account deduces the 
 origin of this venerable city from the 
 Phoceans of Marfeilles, who, hemmed 
 within the narrow limits of their firft 
 fettlement, colonized Orange, Nice, An- 
 tibes, Tarragona, Sardinia, &c. When 
 Fabius Maximus reduced it, we find it 
 defigned Nemaufus^ urbs Volfcorum Arc- 
 comicorum. If it afterwards fhook off 
 the yoke, it was again reduced by Pom- 
 pey, and appears to have been governed 
 by confuls, decemvirs, a fenate, ediles, 
 a company of decurions, a quseftor, a 
 college of pried s, &c. In fubfequent 
 periods, it was deftined to be wafted by 
 the barbarian invader, and flamed with 
 the blood of the partifans of contending 
 factions. The monuments of its an- 
 cient
 
 TO BAREGES. 237 
 
 cicnt fplendour, the celebrated amphi- 
 theatre, matfon carree^ temple of Diana, 
 fountain, &c. have been repeatedly de- 
 fcribed. They who wifh for more de- 
 tailed information than may be found 
 in the pages of Smollet, Thicknefle, and 
 others, may confult Gauthlers hiftory 
 of Nifmes, the memoirs of Seguicr and 
 de la Ferriere, Bergiers excellent work 
 upon the Roman military ways, and the 
 feven quartos of Menard. The prefent 
 city has greatly fhrunk from the circum- 
 ference of the ancient walls, contains 
 about 40,000 inhabitants, but fcarcely 
 one modern building deferving of atten- 
 tion. The houfes are decent and fub- 
 ftantial, but the ftreets ill paved, mifer- 
 ably narrow, and ftrangely confufed. The 
 proteftants^ who compofe at leaft one 
 third of the population, hold their re- 
 ligious meetings a mile and a half from, 
 the town, in a field called the Defart. 
 Why tolerate only by halves, and deny 
 
 the
 
 238 FROM AVJGNON 
 
 the ufe of churches to the moft fober 
 and induftrious portion of the citizens? 
 The revocation of the edift of Nantz 
 gave to the trade of this place a blow 
 which it has not yet recovered. The 
 only atonement that can now be made 
 to the defcendants of the injured, and 
 to the manes of the injured themfelves, 
 is to grant unlimited toleration of opi- 
 nion, and the abolition of all vexatious 
 and unchriftian reftraints. 
 
 The manufactures of this place are 
 chiefly filks, filk ilockings, woollen 
 cloths, and printed cottons. The filk 
 {lockings are preferred even to thofe of 
 Lyons, yet are often flight. During 
 fome years, the annual exportation of 
 this article to Spain, was computed at 
 twenty five thoufand dozen of pairs. 
 The number of frames in the .town is 
 from feven to eight thoufand. 
 
 Among the many diftinguifhed per- 
 fons to. whom Nifmes has given birth, 
 
 Domitius
 
 TO BAREGES. 239 
 
 Domitius Afer might be quoted with 
 praife, as an eminent orator, and the 
 mafter of Quin&ilian, had he not courted 
 the imperial favour by the moft abject 
 adulation, and a&ed the part of informer 
 under Tiberius, Caligula, and Nero. 
 The talents of Broiiffbn^ the lawyer, 
 could not redeem him from the charge 
 of dark fanaticifm and daring zeal : but 
 furely, the cruelty of his punifliment 
 was difproportioned to his crimes. Amid 
 the ferment and intolerance of contend- 
 ing parties, the mild charity recom- 
 mended by Jefus is mutually obliterated* 
 Brouflbn, however defirous of pro- 
 moting reform, mould not have infti- 
 gated the enemies of his country, and 
 no chriftian magiftrate fhould have 
 countenanced the inhumanity of break- 
 ing an unhappy zealot alive upon the 
 wheel, furrounding his fcaffold with a 
 double batallion, and drowning his laft 
 words in the loud beating of drums, 
 
 Let
 
 240 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Let us quote a nobler trait. Villars, 
 conful of the city, having received or- 
 ders from the court to mafTacre all the 
 proteftants on the horrible day of St. 
 Bartholomew, dared- to difobey, con- 
 voked the principal inhabitants of each 
 perfuafion, and caufed them to fwear to 
 live in amity and peace. The abbe 
 CaJJaigne, though hooked into the ma- 
 licious couplet of Defpreaux, was re- 
 puted a learned and not inelegant divine; 
 and his tranflations of Salluft, and of Ci- 
 cero's treatife de Oratore^ are mentioned 
 with commendation. Jean Nicot^ am- 
 baflador at the court of Portugal, intro- 
 duced tobacco into Europe. Has he 
 benefited mankind? To the proteftant 
 reader I need barely name Jacques Sau- 
 rf#, the firft pulpit orator among the 
 French refugees in Holland. Superior 
 to the illiberal dogmas of his age and 
 party, he delighted to exercife chanty 
 to all. He was accufed of herefy, be- 
 
 caufe
 
 TO BAREGES. 24! 
 
 caufe he would not maintain that the 
 Pope was antichrift, and the church of 
 Rome the whore of Babylon. II ne vou- 
 lut jamais employer ces grands traits 
 d" 1 eloquence^ fays an arch biographer. 
 
 jtb. The plains which environ Nifmes 
 are extend ve and finely fkirted. Their 
 principal covering is the vine. A great 
 proportion of the produce is converted 
 into brandy, and exported from Cette. 
 Four years ago, the current price of the 
 vin du pays, for table ufe, was a half- 
 penny per quart, and large quanti'ties 
 were purchafed by the brandy diftillers 
 at a much lower rate. But the prices 
 vary confiderably according to the na- 
 ture of the crop. Five gallons of bran- 
 dy are ufually obtained from thirty of 
 wine. The roads in this province are 
 excellent, but, in dry weather, very 
 dufty. The richnefs of the verdure, 
 and vivid glow of day-light are grateful 
 to travellers from the north, 
 
 R Dined
 
 242 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Dined at Lunel^ a fmall town, which 
 communicates by a navigable cut with 
 the Mediterranean. It is the birth-place 
 of Folquet, of whom the Englifh reader 
 may obtain fome curious notices in Mrs. 
 Dobfon's hiftory of the Troubadours. 
 This Folquet is not to be confounded 
 with the infamous bifhop of Touloufe. 
 Our only meflmates were a lady and a 
 gentleman, with their daughter, a fine 
 girl of twelve or thirteen years of age, 
 but palfied in the left arm. They had 
 juft returned from the waters of Balaruc. 
 It is impoflible not to love the French 
 for their eafe of communication. We 
 converfed on the fame footing as if our 
 acquaintance had been of long (landing, 
 and all regretted that we muft feparate 
 fo foon. However, to fweeten our 
 adieus, Monfieur propofed that we 
 fhould difcufs a bottle of the wine of 
 the place, which has the rich mufcadine 
 flavour of Frontignan, and is produced 
 
 by
 
 tO BAREGES. 43 
 
 fey a fimilar procefs. The grapes are 
 firft deprived of their feeds, then tram- 
 pled and prefTed, and the muft, as it 
 iflues from the prefs, is received into a 
 cafk, in which it is allowed to ferment 
 for fome days^ and is then bunged* 
 Pure Frontignan improves by age, but 
 Lunel fooner arrives at its founded ftate, 
 after which it quickly degenerates* The 
 former ufually cofts from nine to ten 
 pounds fterling the hogfliead, and the 
 latter from eight to nine. Both kinds 
 are often adulterated by the carriers* 
 In France I have not yet perceived a 
 fmgle fymptom of intoxication, and in 
 the heart of this wine and brandy coun- 
 try, the people feem to be juft as fober 
 as in the lefs favoured diftricts. Yet 
 toujours gat, and vive la bagatelle, are 
 the order of the day. I think I may 
 aflert, without incurring the charge of 
 partiality, that my countrymen excel 
 the French in .more than one eftimable 
 R 2 qua-
 
 244 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 quality ; but candour compels me to ac- 
 knowledge, that when whifky is abun- 
 dant, fobriety is not the prevalent virtue 
 of North Britain. 
 
 In the afternoon, we had a glimpfe of 
 the Mediterranean, or, ratherj of a fait 
 lake which has been detached from it. 
 It is indifferently termed LEtang^ or 
 Cetang de Thau or Tbaur^ obvioufly, 
 then, the Stagnum Tauri of Pliny. One 
 of the hills which fkirt it has derived 
 its appellation of Cette or Settc, from 
 Mons Setius ; the other, St. Ft/ix, or 
 Pie Fegtiie, the ancient Fecyus^ rifes at 
 Balaruc, and extends to Frontignan. 
 The whole landfcape is rich and pitu- 
 refque : 
 
 Setlus inde mons tumet 
 
 Proccrus arcem, ct pinifer Fecyi jugum 
 Radice fufa in ufque Taurum pertinet. 
 
 Fejl. Avltn. 
 
 Lay at Montpellier^ Mons puellanim. 
 Being built upon the eftate of the two 
 
 virgin
 
 TO BAREGES. 245' 
 
 virgin daughters of Folcrandus, bifliop 
 of Lodeve, who confecrated themfelves 
 and their property to God and the 
 church, it is defigned in fome of the 
 old archives Domtm Puellarum^ and Z)0- ' 
 natio Montis Pudlarum. Yet we alfo 
 find it written Mons PeJJulanus^ Mons 
 Pi/leriusy and Mons Pejlorius. The Lez, 
 formerly Lers, and fuppofed to be the 
 Lirla of Pliny, flows in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, and may have given 
 rife to the two latter defignations. And 
 what Jhall we not fay of the Lers, ex- 
 claims Peter Olhagarai, with its flux and 
 reflux of the Auriege and tbe Arget, 
 ivhofe banks are crujled over with gold 
 and Jtlver. Does not this appearance of 
 things corroborate the exiflence oftreafures 
 concealed in the magazines of thefe moun- 
 tains? Q Peter, great is thy faith! 
 Montpellier is feated upon an eminence, 
 about two leagues from the Mediterra- 
 nean, and is warned by the Merdanfon^ 
 R 3 which
 
 246 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 which, occafionally, flows under ground. 
 The alleged number of inhabitants is 
 40,000, many of whom are proteftants. 
 The limited extent of the place feems 
 hardly equal to this computation. The 
 houfes are fubftantially built of good 
 Hone, but ill lighted, as too frequently 
 happens in this gay country, and the 
 flreets are narrow and irregular. The 
 place de Peyrou ihould be confidered a- 
 part, as a magnificent public walk, being 
 a large fquare, formed by the town wall, 
 a fuperb public fountain, and two iron 
 baluftrades. The fountain, or temple 
 d'eau is fupplied by a long aqueduct of 
 a triple row of large arches, perhaps the 
 moft flriking modern work of the kind. 
 From the terrace, in a clear day, are 
 feen the diftant Alps and Pyrenees, 
 whilft a luxuriance of cultivated plain, 
 and the Cevennes and Rouiflillon moun-> 
 tains form the more immediate features 
 of the profpeft. The fun gilded the pic- 
 ture
 
 TO BAREGES. 247 
 
 ture with his foft evening rays, and the 
 fummer breeze wafted fragrance. Every 
 body feemed to faunter upon the walk, 
 or move about in the ftreets, or make 
 merry upon benches at their doors. In 
 fine weather, indeed, who could brook 
 confinement within the lugubrious 
 chambers of Montpellier ? The boafted 
 ftatue of Louis XIV. fcarcely drew my 
 attention. There is a horrible want of 
 life in all ftatues and I am not partial 
 to the memory of Louis le Grand. When 
 Jofeph II. vifited the Peyrou, he afked 
 with an arch freer, ou eft la ville de cettc 
 place $ The e/planade is another public 
 walk, bordered with olive trees, and 
 commanding a beautiful profpect of the 
 fea. The theatre, of late erection, is 
 one of the moft handfome in France. 
 The univerfity, founded by Pope Alex- 
 ander IV. has Hill confiderable repute 
 upon the continent as a medical fchool. 
 The botanical garden, firft planted by 
 R 4 De-
 
 248 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Delaurens, phyfician to Heny IV. though 
 lefs extenfive than might be expected, 
 contains upwards of 12,000 fpecies of 
 plants, and has well-fheltered terraces 
 for thofe kinds which affect the made. 
 Under an arch, in a lonely corner of 
 the garden, the author of the Night 
 Thoughts interred the remains of his 
 Narcifla. The royal academy of fci- 
 ences, connected with that of Paris, 
 holds a diftinguifhed rank. But medi- 
 cine, letters, and Icience, are not the 
 fole fupportof Montpellier. It carries on 
 a very confiderable traffic in brandy, li- 
 queurs, and verdegreafe. Three thoufand 
 tons of the latter commodity are annu- 
 ally collected from meets of copper with 
 which the vacancies of every wine cellar 
 are filled. t A worthy friend, with whom 
 I had the rare good fortune to meet, on 
 my return to Montpellier, fupplied me 
 with the following additional notices. 
 The towri ufed to be much benefited by 
 
 the
 
 TO BAREGES. 249 
 
 the refort of confumptive patients, efpe- 
 cially Englim ; but few now refide here 
 on account of health. Good medical 
 advice is not fo local as formerly, ancj 
 the vogue of the day has changed more^ 
 perhaps, than the ftate of the atmofphere. 
 The climate of Montpellier, in fad:, is 
 liable to contrarieties to a feries of un- 
 comfortable drought, followed by heavy 
 and tedious rains. Some meteorologifts 
 have eftimated the average of rainy days 
 in the courfe of the year at 80, and the 
 mean quantity of rain, as indicated by 
 the pluviometer, at 28 inches, 8 lines. 
 The marfhes between the town and the 
 fea do certainly not contribute to the 
 falubrity of the air. The genteel cir- 
 cles form a gay and brilliant, but very 
 diifipated, fociety. The diflblution of 
 manners is general and lamentable ; yet 
 cheerfulnefs feems to be painted on every 
 countenance. The hill on which the 
 town flands, and fome of the furrounding 
 
 ground
 
 FROM AVIGNQK 
 
 ground contain an argillaceous earth, 
 yellow, or grey, in which are found fmall 
 particles of quickfilver. To this cir- 
 cumftance, as well as to the contiguous 
 fwamps, has been afcribed the want of 
 good teeth, very obfervable even'among 
 the females of Montpellier. The environs 
 abound in marine petrifactions, and the 
 variety of indigenous plants, in a circuit 
 of thirty miles, is fuppofed to exceed that 
 of any given fpace of the fame extent in 
 Europe ; but the eager and repeated re- 
 fearches of botanifts have exterminated 
 fome of the rarer fpecies. 
 
 Supped at the table d'hote in the /#- 
 9el ' du Cheval blanc. The converfation 
 was rather more poignant than ufual, and 
 I was particularly diverted with the fol- 
 lowing trait of an honeft Dutch mer- 
 chant. Having pafled the day in his 
 rounds of bufmefs, in company of one 
 of his correfpondents, the latter pro- 
 pofed going to fee Caftor and Pollux. 
 I Co/tor
 
 TO BAREGES. 25! 
 
 Caftor and Pollux ! exclaimed Meenheer, 
 je ne connols pas cette maifon ; Jans doutc 
 die eft nouvellement etablie. 
 
 Rondekt, the ichthyologift, was bom 
 at Montpellier, where he profefled medi- 
 cine with great celebrity. His rage for 
 anatomy prompted him to difiecl: the 
 body of his own child. He died of a 
 furfeit of figs. Sebaftian Bourdon, a dif- 
 tinguifhed painter and engraver, parti- 
 cularly excelled in landfcape. In con- 
 fequence of a confiderable bet, he painted 
 a dozen of human heads, large as life, 
 in one day. This hafty group is not 
 the leaft finking of his capital perform- 
 ances. Michel le Fancheur^ though a 
 calvinift, was beloved by the fenfible 
 and moderate of either church. His 
 fermon againft duelling made fuch an 
 impreffion upon the Mare'chal de la 
 Force, that he declared he would in fu- 
 ture decline a challenge. When we 
 contemplate the life and character of
 
 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 de la Peyronie^ firft furgeon td 
 Louis XV. we are at a lofs which moft 
 to admire, profeflional {kill, zeal for the 
 advancement of his profeffion, or tin- 
 wearied efforts in the caufe of humanity. 
 Let every furgeon and every philanthro- 
 pift perufe the life of this moft excellent 
 man ! I will not mangle it by the exhi- 
 fcition of imperfed: details. The works 
 <jf .Father Co/Id betray a mind of no or- 
 dinary powers many of his ideas have 
 tfie ftamp of originality, and even his 
 errors teach us to think. The following 
 paffage is bold and fmgular The genius 
 of a philofopher isjlartled at nothing ; be 
 forefeet all, expefts #//, and perceives the 
 effect in its caufe. We admire and fear 
 only 'what ive do not under/land. 'The 
 fall of the uni'oerfe would critjh^ without 
 q/lonijbing) the true philofopher. Where 
 'will you jind a greater philofopher than 
 one of our generals, who, in the heat of 
 a battle^ afks a pinch of fnufffrwn one of 
 
 bit
 
 ' TO BAREGES. 253 
 
 bis Jl off, and) as the latter, In the acJ of 
 prefenting the box, had bis body fevered 
 by a cannon bullet ', turned to an officer on 
 the other fide. ', and faid he would trouble 
 him for a pinch ^ as their friend had car- 
 ried the box along with him ? This may 
 be cool, but was it humane P May we 
 likewife be allowed to afk if it was 
 true\ 
 
 $tb. In the courfe of our morning 
 itage the foil appeared inclined to fand, 
 and the fields moftly open, though not 
 unfertile in olives, wine, and corn. Had 
 a diftant peep of Balaruc^ Frontignan> 
 and Cette. Meze, correfponding to the 
 ancient Mefua y a paltry townlet, but 
 fweetly feated on the fhore, was our 
 halting place at noon. A large brandy 
 diftillery, of late erection, has raifed the 
 price of wine in this neighbourhood. 
 Several gentlemen at table difputed with 
 much afperity and vociferation, concern- 
 ing the precife degree of authority de- 
 v legated
 
 AVIGNOtt 
 
 legated to the governor of a French 
 province. When moft emphatic, they 
 often pulled off their hats, which pro- 
 duced a very ludicrous effect. I was 
 apprehenfive that fome affairs of honour 
 might have been the refult, but was 
 agreeably furprifed to find them a few 
 minutes after as gentle as lambs, and 
 the queftion left exactly as they found 
 it. All feparated in good humour, and, 
 as no regrets or apologies for intemper- 
 ance of debate were once hinted at, I 
 concluded that the whole was mere ma" 
 fiiere. 
 
 Failing the village of Montagnac, we 
 entered upon a delightful country, water- 
 ed by the Eraut (Rauracls^ or Arauta)^ 
 a winding river, which has its fource in 
 the Cevennes, and mingles with the fea, 
 a little below the handfome bridge, on 
 which we crofled it. A gay profufion 
 of vegetable charms adorns its banks. 
 At its confluence with the Peyne, ftands 
 
 Pezenaf,
 
 TO BAREGES. 
 
 Pezenaf, Pifcena of Pliny, eight league* 
 from Montpellier, and containing from 
 fix to feven thoufand inhabitants. A- 
 round it ftretches a plain of fmgular fer- 
 tility and beauty, fkirted by rugged hills. 
 Like many of the Languedocian towns 
 and villages, it is diftinguifhed at fome 
 diftance by a fquare tower, adjected to 
 the church* The caftle, founded on a 
 perpendicular rock, once an extenfive 
 and ftrong fortrefs of the family of Mont- 
 morency, is now a heap of ruins.-*- 
 Here occurred the well known interview 
 between Richard Cromwell and the 
 Prince of Conti. With all deference to 
 his highnefs, we may be be allowed to 
 prefume that the poor pitiful fellow was 
 happier than the unprincipled ufurper. 
 Having afced for a bookfeller's {hop, 
 the waiter, by fome extraordinay ftretch 
 of complaifance, offered to condudt me 
 to the only one in town. It was a 
 wretched dirty hovel, in which an old 
 
 woman
 
 2j6 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 woman had fcarcely room to turn, and 
 where a few mufty and obfcure novels 
 held their folitctry reign. Companion 
 may often reconcile to mifery. In the 
 large city of Valladolid, the feat of a 
 bifhop and of a imiverfity, and one of 
 the two fupreme tribunals in Spain, the 
 Chevalier de Bourgoanne could not pro- 
 cure a map or chart, or even a copy of 
 Don Quixot. 
 
 gtb. A ftrange confufion of tongues 
 in the market-place awakened me by 
 four o'clock. The croud were bufily 
 employed in buying and felling the cods 
 of the filk worm, a fpecies of traffic 
 which, it feems, is regularly repeated, 
 every morning, during the feafon, and 
 occafions an annual circulation of a 
 hundred thoufand crowns. The average 
 price is 30 fols per pound. Some of 
 the by-ftanders informed me that Peze- 
 nas is likewife a frequented ftation for 
 the fale of horfes, mules, and grain, at 
 
 the.
 
 TO BAREGES. 257 
 
 the public fairs, has fome extenfive tan- 
 neries, and that its wool has the repu- 
 tation of being fuperior to any in Lan- 
 guedoc. Pliny quotes it on account of 
 its fine wool, dyes, and durable fluffs 
 and Celtic etymologifts will tell you, that 
 P/.f, fignifies ivov/, and cert, fine. Woad 
 is fuccefsfully cultivated in the neigh- 
 bouring fields. The root is about an 
 inch thick, and from a foot to a foot 
 and a half in length, giving out five or fix 
 leaves, each nearly a foot long^ and fix 
 inches broad, and a ftalk which rifes to 
 three or four feet. The flower is cruci- 
 form, and the feed of a violet or yellow 
 colour. This plant fpeedily exhaufts 
 the foil, and requires moifture, with 
 frequent dreffings and cleaning. It fuf- 
 fers from early frofts, and is quickly de- 
 voured by grafshoppers. In a favourable 
 feafon and foil, the leaves may be cut 
 four times, but ufually yield only two 
 crops. 
 
 s Tha
 
 2j8 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 The common people fpeak a jargon, 
 which, to the ear of a ftranger, founds 
 like that of Provence a dialed:, no 
 doubt, of the old Romans, now a prey 
 to daily corruption, and which may 
 foon be obliterated in modern French. 
 
 Travelled over fome miles of barren 
 ground, till we approached Beziers. The 
 origin of this place is loft in antiquity. 
 Some medals noticed by Peirefc and others 
 would lead us to infer that its inhabitants, 
 at a very early period, had a mint and 
 the ufe of the Greek tongue confe- 
 quently, that they may have been a co- 
 lony from Marfeilles. Previous to the 
 invafion of Gaul by the Romans, it was 
 reckoned one of the principal towns of 
 the Volfci Teftofagi. The ancient name 
 is varioufly written, as Biterrte, Beterra 
 Bliterra, &c. The epithet Septimana~ 
 rum indicates the ftation of the feventh 
 legion, conducted thither under Julius 
 Caefar. The Goths extended the. terra
 
 TO BAREGES. 259 
 
 Septimania, over the whole of Langue- 
 doc. The only memorials of the Ro- 
 man name I could trace in this town are 
 the mere remnant of an amphitheatre, 
 and fome infcriptions on the wall of the 
 town houfe. Other monuments have 
 made obeifance to time, Goths, Sara- 
 cens, and crufaders. During the Al- 
 bigenfian war, Beziers fuftained a me- 
 morable, but fatal, fiege. When the 
 brave garrifon at length furrendered, the 
 holy conquerors for fo they were reck- 
 oned butchered 60,000 of the inhabit- 
 ants, and laid the city in afhes. I am 
 -much inclined to fubtract a cypher from 
 this bloody account, efpecially as I read 
 in the recital of an eye-witnefs, feptcm 
 millia. Certain it is, the whole of the 
 prefent population exceeds not 20,000. 
 The town, neverthelefs, feated on a 
 hill, covers an ample portion of ground, 
 whilft its narrow, ilUpaved, and very 
 dirty ftreets form a moft remarkable con- 
 s a traft
 
 260 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 traft to the enchanting fcenery which 
 furrounds them. The cathedral, though 
 fmall, impofes by its lofty fituation.- 
 It is dedicated to St. Nazarius, and con- 
 tains the monument of Blanche d'Ev- 
 reux y the celebrated beauty of her age, 
 and who, in her (ixteenth year, was 
 married to Philip of Valois, in his fifty 
 fixth ! Oppofite to the cathedral, is the 
 Belvidere, or terrace, one of the beft fta- 
 tions for furveying the beautiful valley, 
 or rather amphitheatre, which is watered 
 by the winding Orbe, gayly cloathed 
 with the productions of a genial climate, 
 and enlivened by the eight locks of the 
 great canal, forming as many cafcades. 
 The delightful fituation of Beziers has 
 long been confecrated in a monkim line : 
 
 SI Deus in terra, vcllet habllare, Biterrit. 
 
 The eulogy of father Vaniere is more 
 claffical and appropriate; but truth, which 
 is often at war with poetry, will detract 
 from the merits of the Beziers mufcadine 
 
 wine,
 
 TO BAREGES. 261 
 
 wine,* fo inferior to thofe of Frontignan, 
 Lunel, and Rives-altes. In the rue 
 Fraftfot/e, the only tolerable ftreet, ftands 
 a large grotefque ftatue of Pepefuc, a 
 corruption, it is alleged, of Peire Pee- 
 rue, a valiant captain, who repulfed the 
 Englifh, when they attempted to feize 
 upon this quarter of the town. If fo, 
 he deferved a better ftatue and a better 
 name. The bridge over the Orbe, con- 
 fifts of feventeen arches, of very un- 
 equal dimenfions. Some of the calca- 
 reous ftrata near Beziers abound in fea 
 {hells, efpecially in thofe of oyfters, in 
 beautiful prefervation. 
 
 Among the eminent citizens of Be- 
 ziers, Jean Barbeyrac is well known by 
 his learned commentary upon Grotius* 
 treatife de ^ure Belli ac Pads. The writ- 
 ings of Peliffbn Fontanier are not more 
 admired than were the generofity of his 
 fentiments, and the conftancy of his 
 ffiendfhip. Rather than betray his mafter 
 S 3 Fou-
 
 262 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Fouquet, he fubmitted to a confinement 
 of four years in the Baftille. When 
 deprived of paper and ink, he fcrawled 
 upon the margin of books, with lead 
 fnatched from a pane of glafs, or with 
 an imperfect ink prepared from a burnt 
 cruft of bread and wine. A dull Bif- 
 cavan was occafionally permitted to dt- 
 vert his folitude by playing on the bag- 
 pipe. The found of this inftrument at 
 length became the fignal for a fpider, 
 which he had tamed, and for which he 
 comlefcended to cater, to come forth and 
 feize its prey. Is it not the experience 
 of tyranny which has taught moft ani- 
 mals to fhun the approach of man ? And 
 does not the labour of domeftication 
 pmcipally confift in counteracting that, 
 experience in particular inftances ?- 
 When confidence is once eftablilhed, and 
 gives rife to familiar obfervation, are 
 we not obliged to confefs, that the objecl; 
 
 of
 
 TO BAREGES. 263 
 
 of our cares, be it a bird or a fpider, is 
 fufceptible of memory, reafoning, and 
 affection ? What a pity that Fontanier's 
 fpider was crufhed to death by a demon 
 of a gaoler ! a trait of wanton malig- 
 nity which would provoke a ftoic* For 
 the reft, Fontanier's converfion to ca- 
 tholicity was laudable, if fincere ; but 
 his flattery of the difpenfers of public 
 favours may be thought to detract from 
 his folid merits. Elegance and luminous 
 philofophy characterize the writings of 
 the amiable and blamelefs de Mairan. 
 Un bonnete homme, he ufed to fay, eft 
 celui a qui le rcclt d'une bonne aRion ra- 
 fraichit U fang a true picture of him- 
 felf. The name of Pierre-Paul Riquet^ 
 created Count of Caraman^ is affociated 
 with the canal which he projected and 
 executed, and which joins the Mediter- 
 ranean to the ocean. 
 
 Richnefs and variety of culture kept 
 
 us clofe company to Narbonne, Accord- 
 
 s 4 ing
 
 264 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 ing to Strabo, Pytheas of Marfeilles re* 
 prefented this place as one of the prin- 
 cipal towns of Gaul. It received a Ro~ 
 man colony under the conduct of the 
 orator, L. Craflus, in the year of Rome 
 636, and during the confulate of 4J. 
 Martins Rex whence Narbo Mart'tus. 
 We find it likewife defigned Decuma- 
 norum colonla^ from the circumftance of 
 Cxfar's having made it the ftation of the 
 tenth legion. When Auguftus honoured 
 it with his refidence, he divided Tranf- 
 alpine Gaul into four governments, or 
 departments. That which took its name 
 from Narbonne, comprehended Savoy, 
 Dauphiny, Provence, Roufillon, and 
 Foix, The Romans feem to have con- 
 fidered this capital as an important ftrong- 
 hold. Eft in eadem provlncia^ fays Ci-t 
 cero, (pro Font do J Narbo Martius, c<* 
 Ionia nojlrorum clv'ium^ fpecula popult RQ- 
 mam ac propugnaculum. Pomponius 
 Mela, too, employs thefe marked ex- 
 
 preflions ;
 
 TO BAREGES. 265 
 
 preflions : fed ante flat omnes Atacinorum 
 Decumanor unique colonia, unde ollm bis 
 terris auxilium fuit ^ nunc et nomen et de- 
 cus eft Martlus Narbo. It was the feat 
 of a public academy, and a flouriming 
 fea port. Ft/it. The inroads of fubfe- 
 quent conquerors, more marked by ruin 
 than love of the arts or embellifhment, 
 ftrewed in fragments the amphitheatre, 
 circus, capitol, &c. Thefe fragments 
 were employed in conftruding modern 
 works of defence, when the town was 
 a barrier on the fide of Spain ; but, 
 fmce the acquifuion of Rouflillon to 
 the French territory, the fortifications 
 have been negleded, and nothing re- 
 mains but the wall, flanked by a few 
 baftions. 
 
 Narbonne is now a place of fmall ex- 
 tent, fix miles from the fea, upon a na- 
 vigable communication from the Aude 
 to the royal canal. The vicinity of the 
 (tang de la Rubinne, (Rubrefus^ and 
 12 Rubren*
 
 266 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Rubrenjis of Pliny and Mela) added to 
 a low fituation, furrounded by hills, 
 may contribute to generate moifture, and 
 its concomitant, want of cleanlinefs ; 
 but Bachaumont and la Chapelle feem 
 to have been more than ufually peevifh, 
 when they penned thefe uncourtly lines : 
 
 , Digne objet de notre courrotix, 
 Vieille villc toute de fange, 
 Qui n'es que ruifleaux et qu'cgouts, 
 Pourrois tu pretendre de nous 
 
 Z.e moindre vers a ta louange ? 
 
 6 
 
 During the prevalence of the Autan^ 
 feaft or fouth-eaft wind) which fome- 
 times rages between this and Touloufe, 
 the exhalations from the moift grounds 
 muft be particularly offenfive and nox- 
 ious. This hot wind, like the Sirocco 
 irl Italy, is attended with head-aches 
 and lofs of appetite, and, fometimes, 
 with a morbid fwelling of the body. 
 
 Of the four gates of Narbonne, two 
 are ancient and two modern. A bridge 
 
 divides
 
 TO BAREGES. 267 
 
 divides the town into la cite and la villc. 
 Moft of the houfes have a mean appear- 
 ance ; but the ramparts, (unrounding 
 gardens and well- watered luxuriant mea- 
 dows, prefent an enlivening profpeft. 
 The' cathedral, an unfinished building, 
 is remarked for its grand fteeple, and 
 the monument of Philip the Bold, who 
 died at Perpighan, in 1285. His body 
 was boiled at Narbonne in wine and wa~ 
 ter^ and, by a whimfical partition, his 
 'flefti and bowels were depofited in this 
 tomb, and his bones and heart conveyed 
 to Paris. The archbimop has a large 
 revenue and gloomy palace. In one of 
 the apartments of the latter, is a Saint 
 Cecilia by Michael Angelo. In the ad- 
 joining garden, (lands a curious antique, 
 commonly called P Hotel des Oracles a 
 fmall niche, with an aperture, through 
 which the oracular voice is fuppofed to 
 have proceeded. The figures of Cupids, 
 Gladiators, &c. upon the pedeftal, and 
 
 the
 
 268 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 the aged afped; of the marble, leave little 
 doubt that it is a precious relic faved 
 from the general wreck. 
 
 Of 8000 inhabitants, three fourths 
 are priefts and women. No traffic is 
 here carried on, except in grain, of 
 which Narbonne is no inconfiderable 
 dep6t. Its wheat is preferred to any in 
 the fouth of France for feed. The fu- 
 periority of its hpney is attributed to 
 the uncommon variety of aromatics up- 
 on the neighbouring hill of Clape^and 
 fome of the wafte grounds. . It lofes 
 part of its flavour by carriage, and is 
 "often adulterated or counterfeited. The 
 apothecaries fell it at 30 fols a pound. 
 Althaea Narbonnenfis grows fpontane- 
 oufly in the environs. It was firft no- 
 ticed by the abbe Pourret, nearly refem- 
 bles A. cannablna^ and is converted by the 
 peafants into cloth of a coarfe texture. 
 
 Of the inhabitants few have attained 
 to diftinguiftied eminence. The em- 
 peror
 
 TO BAREGES. 269 
 
 peror M. Aurelius Carus triumphed 
 over the Sarmatians and Perfians, but 
 his fhort career of fixteen months 
 was terminated by lightning. If the 
 epitaph of Bofquet fpeaks truth, his 
 memory mould be held in veneration. 
 Gregem (he was bifhop of Montpellier) 
 vcrbo ct EXEMPLO fcdulo pavit, largus 
 erg a pauper es^ fill parcijfimus, omnibus 
 benignus. 
 
 iof/j. The rocks and hills on either 
 fide of the way afforded no unplcafant 
 variety. At a few miles from Narbonne, 
 Vernet, our voiturin, who was well ac- 
 quainted with the country, had the at- 
 tention to conduct us under one of the 
 arches of a new bridge on the left, 
 where, he faid, we would hear an echo 
 repeat twenty times. The repetitions 
 were actually twelve, and very rapid in 
 fucceflion. The arch has a pretty wide 
 fpan, and the lownefs of the water ufu- 
 ally admits {landing under it in fummer. 
 
 There
 
 270 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 There are hills in the neighbourhood. 
 As we advanced, we perceived the fnowy 
 tops of the Pyrenees rifing to the left. 
 We pa fled through the bourg of Lefjgnan^ 
 and dined at the village of Moris, with 
 fome travelling merchants. Like moft of 
 their country men, they indulged freely in 
 the fuperlative degree, and told us we 
 ihould deep in the prettied town of 
 France. However eager to verify this af- 
 fertion, we could not expect that our mules 
 fhoulcl quicken their pace ; nor, indeed, 
 was the trial of patience fevere for 
 nothing could exceed the glowing fcenery 
 and fine temperature of the evening- 
 In the courfe of this day's progrefs, we 
 noticed a great many villages and old 
 caftle.s, and, towards the clofe of it, be- 
 gan to traverfe gentle eminences, fvvelling 
 amid the moft lovely verdure and tutu 
 of wood, receiving their rich tints from 
 the parting fun-beam,. During great 
 part of the way, however, we had to 
 
 regret
 
 TO BAREGES. 271 
 
 regret a want of made, and the preva- 
 lence of a rocky or gravelly foil. 
 
 Carcaffone (Carcafo, Carcaffo, Carca- 
 fum, CarcafliO) and Volcarum 'Teflofagum) 
 is a confiderable town of the Lower Lan- 
 guedoc, with 15,000 inhabitants, 12 
 leagues weft of Narbonne. The Aude 
 which divides it into the old and new 
 town, is the Atax of Pliny, rifes in Mont 
 Cafpir, one of the Pyrenees, and not in 
 the Cevennes, as alleged by fotne, and 
 enters the Mediterranean below Nar- 
 bonne, traverfmg the marfh of Stgean^ 
 by means of a canal of hewn flone, the 
 gula Atacis of the Romans, and ftill 
 retaining the appellation of la goul 
 d'Aude. 
 
 The old part of the town, or la cite^ 
 is feated moftly on a hill, includes the 
 cathedral and bifhop's palace, and is de- 
 fended by a romantic caftle, flanked with 
 towers. The lower part exhibits a re- 
 gular fquare with ftreets at right angles, 
 
 ttrees
 
 272 FROM AVIGNOK 
 
 tirees au cordeau^ and the four gates may 
 be feen from the grande place, in the 
 centre of which is a fountain with art 
 admired figure of Neptune. But, un- 
 lefs in regularity of defign, and neat- 
 nefs of a few public buildings, Carcaf- 
 fonne excels in nothing her fifter cities. 
 Her only fouvenir of the Roman name 
 is a column of coarfe grey marble, found 
 in 1729, and infcribed, Pnncipl juven- 
 tutis M. Numerlo Numenano nobilijjima 
 Cafari N. M. P. P. 
 
 The unfortunate inhabitants, during 
 the Albigenfian war, were allowed to 
 capitulate, only upon condition of quit- 
 ting the town^puris naturalibus a favage 
 requifition, from which the Vifcountefs 
 herfelf was not excepted. By way of 
 amende honorable to pofterity, the ma- 
 nufactory of woollen cloths has been 
 here eftabliftied upon an extenfive fcale. 
 A fingle houfe employs from 700 to 800- 
 workmen. Of the fuperfines, which 
 
 are
 
 TO BAREGES. 273 
 
 ftrc in high requeft, a large proportion 
 is exported to the Levant ; and the in- 
 ferior forts are moftly purchafed by con- 
 tractors for the army. The yearly 
 amount of exported woollens is reckoned 
 'fourteen millions of livres, and of thofe 
 manufactured for the home market, two 
 millions. 
 
 During fupper we were informed that 
 two officers were poifoned laft night at 
 Pezenas, at the inn which we had quit- 
 ted fo lately. This alarming accident 
 proceeded from the maid neglecting 
 to fcour the copper kettles. The un- 
 fortunate travellers have been removed 
 to Montpellier for medical afliftance, 
 but one of them, it is apprehended, is 
 paft recovery. What unaccountable in- 
 fatuation, to perfevere in the ufe of 
 fuch veflfels, without fo much as tinning 
 them! M. Thierri, an eminent phy- 
 fician of Paris, publifhed a thefis, and 
 M. Amy, advocate of the parliament of 
 T Aix,
 
 274 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Aix, wrote an excellent treatife to prove 
 the noxious effects of copper, when ap- 
 plied to culinary purpofes. Thefe au- 
 thors and their writings have already 
 funk into oblivion, and the practice 
 which they condemned continues in full 
 force ; whilft in Sweden, where copper 
 is more abundant, a falutary edict of the 
 college of health has banifhed it from 
 the kitchen, fince 1753. 
 
 i itb. We had calculated our journey 
 fo as to reft at Touloufe on the Fete- 
 DieUj or Corpus Chrifti day, that we 
 might witnefs the proceflions, which, 
 in large towns, are conducted with un- 
 common pomp and folemnity. But the 
 ftages of muleteers are immutable as the 
 laws of the Medes and Perfians and 
 one day's detention at Avignon, by a 
 flood of the Rhone, kept us back juft 
 one day from the ftation which Vernet 
 had allotted for the refreshment of his 
 cattle and his foul. Yet why regret the
 
 TO BAREGES. 275 
 
 difappointment ? 'If we miffed the pa- 
 geantry of the city, we enjoyed the glif- 
 tening of the dew, if deprived of arti- 
 ficial incenfe, we inhaled the firft fcent 
 of the breeze, if we perceived no pro- 
 longed ftreets lined with tawdry tapeftry 
 and daubings, we could leifurely con- 
 template the delightful carpeting of a 
 highly varied vegetation, and, if our 
 ears were not aflailed by the jingling of 
 bells, the matin notes of the grove were 
 occafionally drowned in the ruftic an- 
 them, which now agreeably fwelling 
 along* the fields, and now dying away 
 in diftance, under a cloudlefs Iky, and 
 amid the frequency of human dwell- 
 ings, induced a moft delicious reverie. 
 Away, faid I to myfelf, with the pen 
 and the pencil ! What are the efforts 
 of art and genius, when compared with 
 the glowing fcenes which encompafs our 
 abodes? How feebly do the painter 
 and poet mimic the opening of a 
 T a fum-
 
 2j6 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 jfummer day ? How fublime the artlefs 
 worfliip of the heart, when the peafant, 
 awakened from his {lumbers, and, under 
 the canopy of heaven, invokes the com- 
 mon Parent of exiftence to protect and 
 blefs him ? All forenoon we obferved 
 village parties traverfmg their little dif- 
 tri&s, and chanting the fervice of the 
 day with every appearance of unfeigned 
 piety. Sunday is not obferved with 
 half of this folemnity. We did not 
 meet a fmgle traveller : but though we 
 had left our condu&or to the liberty of 
 his confcience, he preferred moving on, 
 content to make the fign of the crofs^ 
 or pull off his hat, as thefe fimple pro- 
 ceflions pafled along. 
 
 Caftdnaudary, (cqftrum novum Arrii) 
 the head town of Lauragais, a diftrid of 
 the higher Languedoc, ftands upon a 
 rifmg ground, fix leagues N. W. of Car- 
 caflbne, and thirteen S. W. of Touloufe, 
 has a handfome collegiate church, and 
 
 fome
 
 TO BAREGES. 277 
 
 fome neat houfes, but the ftreets are 
 rendered fome what gloomy by the pro- 
 jections of the roofs. 
 
 Our merchants at Mons warmly re- 
 commended the hotel de Notre Dame as 
 the beft inn in Languedoc, and our 
 meflmates at Carcaflbne very gravdy 
 gave it as their opinion that it was 'the 
 beft in Europe. Alas ! we found { the 
 Virgin a fhabby patronefs -for the houfe 
 was dirty, the maid petulant, and the 
 dinner fcanty. Yet, I fhould do all 
 juftice to the landlord, who, in his blue 
 fatin coat, with laced ruffles, filk ftock- 
 ings, and a bag at his hair, was bufied 
 in the noble occupation of roafting a 
 chicken. 
 
 Blaife cCAuriolc, a native of this place, 
 and prbfeflbr of canon law at Touloufe, 
 alarmed by fome foolifli prediction of d 
 fecond deluge, caufed build an ark for 
 himfelf, his relatives, and friends. 
 
 T 3 In
 
 278 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 In the courfe of the evening, we met 
 crowds returning from mafles and pro- 
 ceffions the women moftly in pairs, 
 and fome aftride on horfe or afs, with 
 gipfey hat$ of coarfe ftraw. Obferved 
 an uncommon abundance of cattle and 
 poultry, and excellent crops of maize 
 and millet. 
 
 Through the village of la Bqftide 
 d'dnjou, the fuppofed fite of the ancient 
 Elufw. Here brick houfes become fre- 
 quent, from the deficiency of free-ftone. 
 Wood and inclofures have been thinly 
 fcattered fince we left Carcafibne. 
 
 Lay at the little town o Villefrancbh 
 where, to our great furprize, every per- 
 fon in the houfe was really civil. This 
 place was founded by Raymond, Count 
 of Touloufe, 1091, and included within 
 its original walls the caftle of the family 
 of Polier, from which iflued Claude Po~ 
 lier^ who was firft honoured with the 
 Jijle of Knight of the Cock. This order 
 
 of
 
 TO BAREGES. 279 
 
 of knighthood now flourifhes only in 
 Great Britain. 
 
 I2tb. From this to Totdoufe is feven 
 leagues, over a rich flat country, and 
 through the villages Raxiege, Caflenet^ 
 '&c. But 1 purpofely defer my notices 
 of the capital of Languedoc, till we 
 return to pafs fome weeks there in au- 
 tumn. 
 
 l$tb. Entered Annagnac^ a diftricl; 
 ef Gafcony^ twenty-two leagues in length, 
 and iixteen in breadth, abounding in 
 beautiful rivulets, in wine, grain, and 
 fruits. Gafcony is a vague term (applied 
 to a confiderable portion of Guienne, 
 and firft employed by Gregory of Tours,) 
 derived from the Vafcons, a Spanifh tribe, 
 who, ifTuing from their faftnefles in the 
 Pyrene'es, occupied thefe regions towards 
 the clofe of the fixth century. Poverty, 
 pride, and provincial diaJecl: (Hfcrimi- 
 nate their dcfcendants from the herd of 
 frenchmen. They pronounce moft of 
 T 4 the
 
 28o FROM AVIGNON 
 
 the quiefcent letters, and confound b and 
 v. Whence Scaliger's bon mot, Felices, 
 quibus vivere eft bibere ! E and a are 
 treated with the Tame want of ceremony, 
 and e is honoured with an acute accent. 
 Their vicious turns of phrafe have been 
 collected into a dictionary of Oafconijms^ 
 and another might be compofed of their 
 Gafconades. But, if the Gafcons have 
 foibles and peculiarities, they may, per- 
 haps, juftly c,laim a comparative fuperi* 
 ority in refpect of quicknefs of percep^ 
 tion and regular deportment. 
 
 A country fomewhat hilly, with fcat- 
 tered patches of wood, vallies moftly 
 allotted to grain, and a road uneven, and 
 feldom good, compofed the afpecl: of the 
 morning ftage. 
 
 By the village of Lcgucvin and fome 
 hamlets, to Uijle en Jourdain^ Caftcllum 
 lEtium of the ancient itineraries, and 
 Infula Jordanis of modern Latinifts. It 
 is a paltry town, in a bottom, upon the 
 
 Save,
 
 TO BAREGES. 
 
 Save, and frequently infefted by inter- 
 mittent fevers. It has a demolifhed 
 caftle, and collegiate church, and gave 
 birth to the abbt Anfelme^ the poet and 
 pulpit orator. 
 
 The little territory of Lomagne, which 
 received us in the afternoon, makes part 
 of the lower Armagnac. Halted at Gi- 
 mont) a fmall town, on a Doping ground, 
 warned by the Gimone^ one of the many 
 tributary ftreams of the Garonne. It 
 has three parifti churches and an hof- 
 pital : but appears to be thin of inhabi- 
 tants, and very dull. Our hoftefs, a 
 woman of grave exterior, but not averfe 
 to converfation, gave us a very friendly 
 reception. For the news of the day 
 {he informed us that fome aflaflins had 
 murdered the gardener and fecretary of 
 Monfeigneur de Chauvigni, bimop of 
 Lombez, and made their efcape with a 
 confiderable quantity of fpecie.
 
 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 14/A. An agreeable flroll over the 
 fame fort of country, pafling Aubiet, an 
 loiigaificant bourg. 
 
 I>^j4ucb, or Aufch) the head town of 
 Armagnac, and feat of the metropolitan 
 church of Gafcony,^J5 leagues from 
 Toulgufe and 33 from Bourdeaux, 
 ftands upon a hill, which rifes in the 
 middle of a valley, encompafTed with 
 high grounds, a,nd warned by the Gers, 
 one of the many ftreams which gave rife 
 to the name Aquitania. The upper and 
 lower part of the town are connected by 
 a ftone ftair of two hundred fteps. The 
 houfes are large, and fubflantially con- 
 ftruded of excellent free ftone. The 
 Dumber of inhabitants is vaguely com- 
 puted at 4000. The cathedral is a mag- 
 nificent gothic pile, which I regretted I 
 could not examine more at leifure. The 
 \veuern porch, a recent addition, is ad- 
 mired by connoificurs ; but is, certainly, 
 encumbered with ornament. The ftained 
 
 glafs
 
 TO BAREGES. 283 
 
 glafs is of exquifite richnefs. Adjoining 
 is the archbimop's palace, an ample 
 manfion, and commanding a delightful 
 range of variegated profpect. The in- 
 come of this fee is rated at 126,000 
 livres, and is worth a great deal more. 
 The dioceie includes 372 parifh churches, 
 and 277 chapels of eafe. The chapter 
 is compofed of 15 iiignitaries and 25 
 canons. Suavis, bifliop of Auch, af- 
 fifted at the council of Adge 506.* 
 Moft of the windows in the town have 
 been (nattered by the late hail ftorm. : .- : 
 According to Mela, the Aufdl were 
 the moft celebrated people of Aquitania, 
 and their city, Climberrls or Cliinberrttm 
 of the Gauls, and Aufci or Augujla Auf- 
 fiorum of the Romans, was the moft 
 flouriming, and enjoyed the privilege 
 of being governed by its own laws. 
 There are a few mulberry trees about 
 the town, but the laft which we obferved 
 
 in this journey. 
 
 Th
 
 2$4 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 <Sf 
 
 The pears of Auch, efpecially its boni 
 Chretiens^ are in high requeft. Some 
 very large kinds are cultivated hard by 
 the walls. The feeds feldom attain to 
 maturity, and the juices, of which they 
 are deprived, are diffufed in the pulp. 
 The pear has long been a favourite fruit 
 in France. Some gardeners reckon no 
 lefs than 500 forts ; for with them every 
 fhade of variety conftitutes a fpecies. 
 The more modeft Duhamel is content 
 with 119, to which, he fays, 30 or 40 
 of an indifferent quality may be added 
 from the common orchards. The Lin- 
 nean botanift reduces the fpecies of py- 
 rus to thirteen, and, in this humble 
 enumeration, includes the pear, apple, 
 and quince, . I thought, the landlord 
 ihould never have ended his panegyric 
 of the bans cbretiens.. But you forget 
 . their amazing weight faid I on went dc 
 me dire quunfeulpefe. 126,000 livrcs* 
 He laughed heartily, and changed his. 
 
 difcourfe
 
 TO BAREGES. 285 
 
 difcourfe to archbilhops. The late Mon- 
 feigneur d'Apchon he mentioned in 
 terms of the warmeft regret. This ex- 
 cellent prelate, in the afliduous difcharge 
 of his paftoral functions, went about 
 continually doing good. As he lived upon 
 one tenth of his income, he confecrated 
 the remainder to offices of charity* 
 From the multiplied acts of his genero- 
 (Ity, Soave has felected two, which 
 ought no longer to be confined within 
 the limits of the Italian language. 
 
 The archbifhop, foon after his in- 
 ftallation, being informed that two ladies 
 had been fuddenly reduced from afflu- 
 ence to a ftate of humble retirement, 
 without relinquifhing any of thofe vir- 
 tues which had diffufed a luftre over 
 their better days, honoured them with 
 his firft vifit, and exprefled, in the moft 
 handfome and delicate terms, at once 
 his high regard for their character, and 
 the fyropathy with which he defired to 
 
 par-
 
 286 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 participate their misfortunes. In thfc 
 courfe of converfation, he caft his eye, 
 as if by accident, on a picture of no in-, 
 trinfic value, but for which he faid he 
 would willingly give 2000 crowns. 
 The ladies, overjoyed to find in their 
 humble retreat any object which could 
 intereft their auguft vifitor, affured him 
 that they would efteem themfelves fm- 
 gularly happy if he would accept of it 
 as a prefent. By no means , replied d'Ap- 
 chon, I Jhall be too fortunate to procure 
 it at any price. In fad, no fooner had 
 he returned home than he fent a polite 
 note and 2000 crowns as the price of 
 the picture. The frigid amateur may 
 fmile, and referve his crowns for pieces 
 of acknowledged merit ; but furely the 
 good archbifhop of Auch might gaze 
 upon a forry painting, the memorial of 
 his beneficence, with more exquifite 
 feelings of fatisfaction than the pencil 
 of a Reubens or a Titian ever infpired. 
 
 Courage
 
 TO BAREGES. 287 
 
 Courage is fo nearly allied to gene* 
 rofity that it is feldom found to exift 
 without it. During the night, a fire 
 broke out in a houfe inhabited by feveral 
 poor families. With great difficulty all 
 made their efcape, except two little boys 
 in the upper ftory. The archbiftiop of- 
 fered a reward, firft of 100 louis d'ors, 
 and then of 200, to the -perfon who 
 fhould bring them down alive. But 
 the clanger appeared too imminent to all 
 the by-ftanders, who remained mute. 
 God forbid^ exclaimed the prelate, that wt 
 JJjould Jland Jtill and fee two unfortunate 
 viffims periJJj in the flames. I will mount 
 myfelf. Having inftantly caufed join 
 two ladders by ropes, he climbed with 
 undaunted refolution,- rufhed through 
 fmoke and flames, and, bearing one 
 boy on his (houlders and the other in his 
 arms, defcended amid the acclamations 
 of the yet trembling- fpeclators. Paint- 
 ers, painters, what a fubjeft for your 
 
 canvafs ! 
 
 Through
 
 288 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 Through Bilnau^ and a few fcattered 
 Tillages. The country hilly to Mirandc, 
 the fmall capital of dftarac, or EJlarac, 
 founded 1289, upon a hill near the 
 Baife. It is furrounded with walls, but 
 is poor and dirty. The air, too, felt 
 clofe and difagreeable. They charged 5 
 fols additional for fupper, on account of 
 the late fcaroity, produced by blighting 
 fogs and continued drought. The people 
 are compelled to mix oat-meal with their 
 flour, which they deplore as a mighty 
 calamity. How > then, could they exift 
 in the Land of Qakes ? 
 
 i$tb. A hilly and fwelling furface, as 
 yefterday, pleafantly checquered with 
 clumps of trees, and feftoons of vines. 
 At the little town of Mielan, we experi- 
 enced much uncommon civility from the 
 innkeeper owing, probably, to the re- 
 motenefs of the fituation. 
 
 Defcended into tfce beautiful plain of 
 Bigorre^ aq oval amphitheatre. The 
 
 fmall
 
 TO BAREGES. . 
 
 fmall county of that name, ager Biger- 
 
 ^ 18 leagues in length, and 3 in 
 breadth, contains within that narrow 
 compafs a furprizing variety of hill and 
 dale, was anciently renowned for its 
 wines, and more anciently for its flags 
 and rein-deer^ when Gaul, by reafon of 
 its forefts, might be compared to Canada 
 or Lapland. 
 
 Our meridian ftage was to Rabaflems t 
 a very (haggling village. A great con- 
 courfe of people had aflembled at the 
 cattle fair. The men were ftout, and 
 rather groffiers. Several of them wore 
 bonnets like thofe of our Highlanders, 
 but white, and with a loofe fcarlet tuft 
 upon the top. The women had fine 
 frefh complexions, and a peculiar ex- 
 preflion of fagacity, to which the red 
 capulet worn by many of them, per- 
 haps, contributes in part. 
 
 In the afternoon, we traverfed part of 
 
 an extended and delightful plain. A 
 
 u fudden
 
 290 I ROM AVJCNON 
 
 fudden mower, the fir ft that had occur- 
 red during this journey, warned us of 
 our approach to the mountains. As it 
 paffed off, the fun fpread his gentle 
 beams over the refreshed and fragrant 
 verdure which furrounded us, while the 
 Pyre'nean ridge, like the ftupendous de- 
 corations of an immenfe theatre, rofe 
 into majefty as the clouds retired. 
 
 Lay at Tarbes, the chief town of the 
 *Tarbelli, whom Pliny diftinguifhes by 
 the epithet quatuorftgn ani ; thus intima- 
 ting that their garrifon was compofed of 
 four bodies of troops, each of which had 
 its refpedive enfign, or ftandard-bearer. 
 It ftands upon the beautifully winding 
 Adour^ which, rifmg in the Pyrenees, 
 here feparates into five ftreams, and falls 
 into the fea near Bayonne. 
 
 S^iii tenet el ripas ATURI, quo lit tore curvo 
 MoltiUr a dmiflum c /audit TARBELLIUS equor. 
 
 Luc. 
 
 Few
 
 TO BAREGES. 291 
 
 Few French towns of the fame fize 
 have pleafed me more than Tarbes. 
 There is fomething peculiarly captivating 
 in a fequeftered fituation, a mild atmo- 
 fphere, a fruitful plain, beautified with 
 wood and water, and fkirted by lofty 
 and age-worn mountains. The ftreets 
 are clean and well aired, the houfes 
 neatly built, and covered with blue flate, 
 The ladies are admired for their hand- 
 fome perfons. The men have much the 
 look of health, and regular features. 
 Out of 8,000 inhabitants is formed a 
 very feled and agreeable circle. No 
 wonder, then, that Tarbes fhould have 
 detained fome Englifti families on their 
 way to or from the watering places, and 
 detained them for life. Accommodation 
 is good, and provifions are cheap. The 
 only difcouraging circumftanceto aftran- 
 ger is, that the French language is not 
 here fpoken in its purity. The public 
 buildings are the cathedral, a parifh 
 u 2 church,
 
 292 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 church, a convent of Cordeliers, another: 
 of Carmelites, and a college of the Peres 
 de la Doflrine. 
 
 The town experienced no difafter from 
 a fmart fhock of an earthquake in 1 750 ; 
 but a neighbouring valley was entirely 
 deftroyed. 
 
 Watering places are, ufually, the re- 
 fort of the fick, of the idle, and of the gay. 
 But not a few repair to the baths of the 
 Pyrenees, for the purpofes of profecuting 
 the ftudy of natural hiftory. I have juft 
 caught a few minutes converfation with 
 an interefting young gentleman, pofting 
 to Bagnieres, his head quarters in fum- 
 mer. He reckons the extreme height 
 of Mont-Perdu , the higheft of the marble 
 mountains, 1760 toifes fuppofes that 
 the low lying plains have been formed 
 by the foil and rubbifh wafhed dow* 
 from tke fides of the hills that water 
 is the great agent of the important, but 
 gradual, changes which are conftantly 
 
 going
 
 TO BAREGES. 293 
 
 going on upon our planet, and predicts 
 the final abafement of the Pyre'ne'es in 
 a million of years. Whence then {hall 
 flow the fountains and rivers, which re- 
 frefh the earth, and are necefTary to the 
 life and accommodations of man? From 
 new Alps and new Pyrenees, which the 
 waters of the deep fhall have gradually 
 abandoned. 
 
 ifitb. Rolled through vallies, in which 
 a poet might faunter the live-long day, 
 and fmg of nature and the loves of fhep- 
 herds. Streamlets trickling from the 
 furrowed and wooded rocks, difpenfe 
 rnoifture, verdure, and richly varied 
 enamel over the plain. The numerous 
 habitations confift of detached cottages 
 rather than of villages, and each dwelling, 
 clean and cheerful, has attached to it a 
 group of trees and a little garden. The 
 mountains wildly frowning in the mift, 
 prefented a ftriking contraft to this ami- 
 tranquillity below. The plain gra- 
 u 3 dually
 
 294 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 dually narrowed, and our road at length 
 became an upward path. The vines, 
 creeping from trunk to trunk, and the 
 pendent clufters of their fruit, gave place 
 to fcenes more woodland, and to a more 
 uncultivated world. Yet the foil was 
 fertile, efpecially in grain. Flax, too, is 
 reared in this and the adjacent diftricts, 
 and is manufactured upon the fpot into 
 table linen of fuperior finenefs. That 
 of the beft quality is obtained from fo- 
 reign feed, occafionally renewed. Ex- 
 pofing the plant to the dew upon the 
 meadows is preferred to fteeping, as it 
 facilitates the bleaching and communi- 
 cates a more perfect whitenefs. 
 
 To fpeak in the language of the coun- 
 try, we afcendedto the valley of Lave dan, 
 {Levitancnfis pagus^ or Levitanta]} a dif- 
 trict of Bigorre, more elevated, indeed, 
 than Tarbes, but flill a valley, winding 
 for thirty miles among the mountains, 
 in fome places very narrow, but, in 
 
 others,
 
 TO BAREGES. 295 
 
 others, expanding, to a breadth of twenty 
 miles, celebrated for its breed of gene- 
 rous horfes, for its quarries of blue Hate 
 and marble, and for points of view, to 
 which no powers of defcription can do 
 juftice. Here the air is pure, and the 
 ftreams are unpolluted, the fky is fhaded 
 with fhifting or fantaftic clouds, the 
 gorges of the mountains difappear in 
 their windings, and the general filence 
 may be compared to that which pervades 
 the deferts of the world. The buftle of 
 cities and the tumults of ambition do not 
 even murmur from afar. The fprings 
 of regular government ceafe to exert 
 their energies, for the mountaineer re- 
 fufes to fubmit to the gripe of the tax- 
 gatherer, or contribute to the fupport of 
 a complex fyftem from which he derives 
 no benefit, or which he does not under- 
 ftand. If puftied to extremities, he be- 
 takes himfelf to his faftnefles, and with- 
 holds even the voluntary tribute, which 
 u 4 is
 
 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 is ufually accepted in place of dated im- 
 ports. Mod of the paftures, which are 
 rich in fummer, and fatten the cattle 
 which winter on the landes of Bour- 
 deaux, are common to parifties. 
 
 Refted two hours at Lourdes (Lapur- 
 duni) the capital and only town of La- 
 vedan. It is in fa<t nothing more than 
 a clean romantic village, planted on the 
 dorfal ridge of a rock of calcareous 
 fchiftus, with a caftle ftill entire, which 
 has frequently ferved the purpofes of a 
 date prifon. Its uncouth towers, hang- 
 ing walls, and mafly ramparts, now 
 vainly frown on the peaceful vale. The 
 dreadful fcience of attack and defence 
 has changed its modes and afpecls, and 
 delights to unfold its dedru&ive energies 
 over a wide extent of fair and crowded 
 plains. Yet, when from the hoary battle- 
 ments, the eye explores the grand re- 
 cedes of nature, and catches the airy 
 yida or hanging wood, it may give ^
 
 TO BAREGES. 297 
 
 tear to individual fuffering to the fo- 
 litary being who may ftili languifti in 
 the dungeons of the caftle. 
 
 Some of the houfes of Lourdes are 
 wholly built of a fiffile marble, quar- 
 ried from the interior of the fchiftofe 
 ftrata. The apparent direction of the 
 latter is from eaft to weft, with a gentle 
 inclination to the fouth. The Gave de 
 JPau, which has its fource in eternal 
 fnow, and tumbles down the vale with 
 the roar of a torrent, here deviates to 
 the weft of its northerly courfe, then 
 pafies Pau, and joins the fea near Bay- 
 onne. Gave, in this part of the country, 
 is a generic term of Bifcayan origin, 
 denoting a ftream, and receives its fpe- 
 cific defignation from the chief place by 
 which it flows. 
 
 The valley narrowed as we advanced, 
 but prefented beautiful windings, an 
 agreeable variety of native woods and 
 paftures, and now and then a decent and 
 
 com-
 
 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 comfortable cottage. The darning noife 
 of the torrent was occafionally drowned 
 in the louder and more prolonged mur- 
 murs of the heavens for thunder, rain, 
 and funmine had alternate fvvay. 
 
 At fome miles from Lourdes, a Bene- 
 dicTme convent ftands aloft, upon the 
 right, and the chateau of Monfieur de 
 Rochefort ftill higher, on the left. 
 Vernet directed our eyes to a towering 
 mountain, on whofe fummit he affured 
 us, there was a lake nine miles in cir- 
 cumference, the water of which is fo 
 exceffively cold, as to prove fatal to the 
 unwary drinker. Do you really believe 
 it is colder than ice ? faid I. Out, Mon- 
 ftcur, par tous les dialks^ exclaimed he, 
 miUe fois plus froids and, as he con- 
 jured up fuch a legion of allies^ I let him 
 have it his own way. It is, however, 
 an undoubted fad, that while fermented 
 liquors and ardent fpirits flay their thou- 
 lands, the coldeft waters of the Swifs 
 
 glaciercs
 
 TO BAREGES. 2Q9 
 
 glacieres prove a fafe and refrefliing be- 
 verage. 
 
 At the obfcure, but romantic village 
 of Pierre jite, we took leave of this good 
 vojturin, who conducted himfelf all the 
 way perfectly to our fatisfaction. 
 
 On reviewing the pencil notes of the 
 day, if I might be allowed to judge from 
 partial and fuperficial infpection, the 
 rocky range on either fide of the wind- 
 ing valley, is compofed of argillaceous 
 and calcareous matters, often difcernible 
 in the form of alternate layers, but the 
 one fometimes prevails almoft to the ex- 
 clufion of the other. Here, for exam- 
 ple, the argillaceous greatly predomi- 
 nates. 
 
 \~jtb. The bridge and part of the car- 
 riage road between this and Bareges 
 having been carried away, we hired four 
 chairmen, to relieve one another, and 
 two fmall poneys for our luggage. As 
 for myfelf, I was happy to perform this 
 
 laft
 
 JOO FROM AVIGNON 
 
 laft ftage on foot. An interefting march 
 it, indeed, was, between two majeftic 
 ridges, clothed in verdure and the plan- 
 tations of nature. The Gave fometimes 
 rufhed far below, and often broke its 
 precipitate courfe againft fragments of 
 rock. The damaged ftate of the road 
 obliged us to fetch a compafs along a 
 narrow, wet, and unfound path-way. 
 But this dilemma was of fhort duration, 
 and the toil of afcent was agreeably be- 
 guiled by hoary precipices, furrowed by 
 the torrents of fome thoufand years, and 
 imparting a grey reverence to nodding 
 forefts. Our guides, as if unconfcious 
 of the charms of general landfcape, 
 pointed to the more minute objects of 
 curiofity, as to a lead mine, which had 
 been abandoned, or to a natural arch of 
 fnow between two approaching cliffs. 
 Among the many fmall bridges which 
 occurred in our way, they forgot not to 
 direct our attention to the Pont dt FEn-
 
 TO BAREGES. 30! 
 
 ,/^r, fo called from the deep yawning 
 chafm, over which its arch is thrown, 
 and the fhady pines which contribute to 
 the gloom. We likewife obferved many 
 cafcades or, as they figured in the dif- 
 tance, filver threads of water depending 
 from the heights, whilft one nearer, and 
 tumbling in a feries of angry falls, ar- 
 refted attention. 
 
 At a village called Saltgos^ we cleared 
 the afperities of our pilgrimage, and had 
 a fmooth and almoft level road to Luz, 
 a townlet fweetly fequeftered in a high 
 valley, near the jundion of the Baft on 
 with the Gave. Here we fnatched a 
 ruflic breakfaft in the open air, and 
 gazed upon fcenery which I will not 
 venture to delineate. A diftant funny 
 pafture detained my lingering regards. 
 Again we began to climb again the 
 mountains approached, and gradually 
 afTumed the features of bleaknefs had 
 a tranfient peep of St. Sauveur, pic- 
 
 turefquely
 
 J02 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 turefquely featcd at the bottom of the 
 Pic de Laff, and reached the place of 
 our deftination before mid-day. 
 
 Bareges confifts of a fmgle ftreet of 
 ftnall and flight houfes, meanly fur- 
 nifhed, and habitable only one half of 
 the year. 
 
 Provifions are brought from a diftance, 
 and, like the lodging, are dear and bad. 
 There is not a fmgle inn. One muft 
 immediately engage rooms and a pro- 
 viding cook. In fpite of thefe difcou- 
 ragements, there is no deficiency of 
 company ; for the waters have long main- 
 tained a deferved celebrity for the heal- 
 ing of gun-fhot wounds, obftrudions 
 of the vifcera, white fwellings, &c. 
 They rife 'from feveral fources of dif- 
 ferent degrees of heat, from 94! to 1 14 
 of Fahrenheit's thermometer, and are 
 commodioufly diftributed into four fe- 
 parate baths. Their fteam is more or 
 lefs perceptible according to the tem- 
 perature
 
 TO BAREGES. 303 
 
 perature of the external air; but their 
 degrees of native warmth and propor- 
 tions of petrol and fulphur undergo little 
 or no variation. The hotteft fmell 
 ftrongly of rotten eggs. The uniform- 
 ity of their flow, their limpidity in the 
 bathing troughs, the oily evanefcent pel- 
 licle on the furface, the white ftringy 
 filaments in the jet from the cock, and 
 the uncluous fediment, found adhering to 
 the fides and bottom of the troughs, are 
 deferving of attention. In moft cafes, 
 bathing and drinking are both prefcribed, 
 and the douche^ or pump bath, is often 
 very efficacious in lubricating ftiffened 
 joints, and refolving inveterate tumours. 
 From time immemorial, the people of 
 the diftrict employed thefe waters fuc- 
 cefsfully in the cure of froft bitten limbs. 
 The warmeft may be drunk at the fource 
 with perfect fafety, and proves a whet 
 to the appetite before meals. 
 
 ii The
 
 304 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 The etiquette of vifiting is here fairly 
 adjufted. Whoever wifhes to be re- 
 ceived into fociety, makes his round of 
 vifits to all who have arrived before 
 him otherwife, it is underftood that 
 he wifhes to live retired, and receives no 
 moleftation. Gaming prevails, but fel- 
 dom to any great extent. The enter- 
 tainments are a weekly ball, felect pri- 
 vate parties in the evening, and, fome- 
 times, private plays. Good walks and 
 a circulating library are much wanted ; 
 but French ladies and gentlemen con- 
 trive to exift very agreeably without 
 either. 
 
 The furrounding hills are verdant to 
 their fummits, but deftitute of trees, with 
 the exception of a puny plantation of 
 firs, behind the village, to break the 
 force of the avalanges. 
 
 A variety of curious fimples, rock 
 cryftals, afbeftos, fpars, &c. will reward 
 the refearches of the naturalift. The 
 
 moun-
 
 TO BAREGES. 305 
 
 mountain ftrawbeny abounds during 
 the fummer months, and ufually makes 
 the principal article of the deffert. The 
 trout, and more common frefh water 
 fifti are fupplied by the Gave and fome 
 lakes among the mountains. The moun- 
 tain-heron, firft obferved by the Baron, 
 de la Peirouze, haunts elevated meadows, 
 near the banks of flreams, and is diftin- 
 guifhed by its variety of colours. Wild 
 deer, pheafants, quails, and a rare fpe- 
 cies of white partridge^ though I fufpect 
 the ptarmigan are the pincipal game. 
 The flefh of the chamois, here called 
 yfard^ is fometimes prefented at table, 
 and efteemed a dainty. Bears have been 
 known to approach the village. The 
 cattle in the neighbouring vallies are 
 feldom fubject to epidemical diforders, 
 owing, it is alleged, to the frequency of 
 aromatic herbs in the paftures, and a 
 ftrong impregnation of a nitrous fair. 
 But may not the purity of an elevated 
 x atmof-
 
 306 FROM AVIGNON 
 
 atmofphere likewife have its influence ? 
 Though the weather be fometimes foggy, 
 the air is, for the moft part, dry and fweet. 
 Thunder ftorms are lefs frequent than 
 one would imagine, and the lightning 
 very feldom occafions the fmalleft harm. 
 Is It attracted by any metallic veins? 
 In the higher regions of the Alps, the 
 forked ftreaks of the electric fluid are 
 alfo reported to be innocuous. Would 
 they be fo, if thefe elevations were peopled 
 like the plains? A roaming fhepherd 
 may not be killed by lightning in the 
 lapfe of a thoufand years, when, in a 
 country (locked with towns and villages, 
 an individual or two may be cut off in 
 the courfe of every fummer. After all, 
 how groundlefs is the dread of a thun- 
 der ftorm? The chance is, perhaps, 
 many millions to one, that we (hall die 
 by fome of the lefs violent procefles of 
 nature; or, fhould the fire of heaven 
 really confign us to the tomb, what exit 
 
 can
 
 TO BAREGES. 307 
 
 can we conceive more eafy and inftanta- 
 neous ? 
 
 The highland women of Bigorre and 
 parts adjacent, are fimply clad in the 
 red hood mentioned above, with a coarfe 
 jacket and petticoat. Some of them 
 have no (lockings, and others, ftockings 
 without foles. Their employment at 
 the watering places is moftly confined 
 to making up, and warming beds, fweep- 
 ing rooms, and vending cherries, ftraw- 
 berries, whipt creams, and foflils. Frank^ 
 nefs, naivete, and a pleafant vivacity 
 mark their manners. The men feem to 
 be more fly and fullen ; and a Parifian 
 petit-maitre would readily enough mif- 
 take them for Hottentots or Orang- 
 outangs. Their drefs ufually confifts of 
 a coat of thick frieze, manufactured at 
 home, remarkably wide breeches, braces 
 of the Gauls, and either a white bonnet 
 with a red tuft, or a frieze night cap. 
 Many of them throw over all a very* 
 x 2 coarfe
 
 308 FROM AVIGNON, &C. 
 
 coarfe cloak, with a hood, and fome wear 
 the hood without the cloak. Their (hoes, 
 or efyartilleS) are of pack-thread, the 
 foles clofe and thick, the upper part, 
 like net-work, having two cords to twine 
 and tie about the ancle, in the manner 
 of bufkins. The common language of 
 the country is a dialect of the old Bif- 
 cayan, which founds harfh to the ear of 
 a ftranger, yet claims refpecT: as a relic 
 of thofe Iberians, who, retiring into the 
 wilds of a province impervious to armies, 
 preferved, amid the wafteful conten- 
 tions of Romans, Goths, and Saracens, 
 their native cuftoms and Celtic idiom.
 
 39 ) 
 
 CHAR X. 
 
 TOULOUSE. 
 
 TOLOSA, urbs and civifas Tolofatium^ &c. 
 the capital of the Volfci Teftofagi, appears 
 to have been one of the moft flouriming 
 cities of Gaul. It was defigned Palladia, 
 from the olive groves which environed it, 
 the partiality evinced by its citizens to 
 the worfhip of Minerva, or the laudable 
 protection with which they foftered fci- 
 ence and polite literature in their public 
 fchools. 
 
 Marcus PALLADIA non inficianda TOLOSJE 
 Gloria , quern genuit pacts arnica quits. 
 
 MART. 
 
 The coftly offerings of crowding vota- 
 ries adorned its celebrated temple. But 
 the exiftence of the fatal gold and' its 
 liquid receptacle may well be queftioned, 
 x 3 until
 
 J1O TOULOUSE. 
 
 until the tale of Juftin will ftand ex- 
 amination, and fome phyfical or hiftori- 
 cal trace of a lake be difcovered. 
 
 When the Vifigoths chofe this city 
 for their capital, they too fuccefsfully 
 laboured to obliterate every veftige of 
 the Roman name. Upon the road to 
 Blagnac, and near the chateau d$ St 
 Michel^ a forry fragment of the amphi- 
 theatre attracts the fteps of the inquifi- 
 tive. It feems to have been of an oval 
 form, and conftrucled of bricks and 
 fmall ftones. Its fituation favours the 
 conjecture that the city once occupied 
 more ground, or flood upon a different 
 fite. 
 
 I n 73 2 > Touloufe was taken and pil- 
 laged by the Saracens. During feveral 
 centuries it was governed by its own 
 Counts, but was uqited to the crown 
 Binder Philip the Bold, 1272. 
 
 Touloufe flands upon the Garonne, 
 45 leagues weft of Mcg^pellier, and 
 
 169 $.
 
 TOULOUSE. 311 
 
 169 S. W. of Paris, in an ample plain, 
 fertile in corn, millet, and mulberries; 
 and its tall fpires, {hooting under a pure 
 and warm fky, convey, at a little dif- 
 tance, fome vague notion of eaftern 
 magnificence. 
 
 Including the immediate fuburbs, fe- 
 parated from the wall only by a gate or 
 bridge, this town meafures in a ftraight 
 line, from North to South, 2000 toifes, 
 and, from Eaft to Weft, 1200. Mr. 
 Necker ftates its population at 56,000. 
 The average annual confumption of flour 
 is 2jo t ooofetiers*i which, according to 
 the mean calculation in France, of three 
 fetiers to each individual, would give 
 90,000. But, in all attempts to eftimate 
 population, it is extremely difficult to 
 approximate the truth. Now, however, 
 that I have got among numbers, I may 
 be allowed to add to the annual bill of 
 fare 1700 head of cattle 6500 calves 
 
 * A fetier nearly crfrrefponds to ten bufhels. 
 
 x 4 3
 
 312 TOULOUSE. 
 
 33,000 fheep 40,000 hogs and 
 50,000 lambs and kids, not including 
 butcher meat of different forts purchafed 
 without the liberties of the town. 
 
 Here are eight gates, double the num- 
 ber of places publiqucS) with many public 
 buildings and private hotels. Of the 
 principal ftreets, few are deficient in 
 length or breadth, but all are roughly 
 paved, diftributed without regard to 
 uniformity or neatnefs, and never en- 
 livened by the activity of the bufy or the 
 gay. The brick preferves its colour better 
 than in London, and its dark fhade is 
 frequently relieved by white wafhing or 
 paint. Only one hotel, at prefent oc- 
 cupied by one of the prefidents, is really 
 built of ftone, and is ftyled by way of 
 eminence la malfon de pierre. The other 
 hotels, of which fome are elegant and 
 (lately, are diftinguiflied, in the French 
 ftyle, by the family name blazoned in, 
 capitals over the gate- way. 
 
 The
 
 TOULOUSE. 313 
 
 The metropolitan church, dedicated 
 to St. Stephen, though unfinifhed, is 
 large, and has a ftriking choir. The 
 high altar is encumbered with figuring, 
 yet the ftoning of the tutelar faint, by 
 GervaisDrouet, well defer ves to be fingled 
 from the group. The cloifters are quite 
 entire. The nave was built by Ray- 
 mond VI. Count of Touloufe, and the 
 choir by Bertrand de L'ifle, one of the 
 bifhops. The bell in the fquare tower 
 was prefented by Jean de Cardaillac, 
 patron of Alexandria, and adminiftrator 
 of the church and fee of Touloufe. It 
 bears his name, weighs 50,000 Ib, and 
 is reckoned inferior to none in the king- 
 dom, except the great bell of Rouen. 
 The chapter, erected 1077, confifts of 
 the archbifhop, provoft, chancellor, five 
 archdeacons, a grand chanter, 24 canons, 
 4 hebdomadaries, 44 prebendaries, 26 
 priefts of the choir, 2 mufic mafters, 
 8 choirifters or finging boys, 2 beadles, 
 2 veftry keepers, and a door keeper. 
 
 The
 
 314 TOULOUSE. 
 
 The church of St. Sern'm (Saturninus) 
 ranks next in point of dignity a lofty 
 venerable pile, with a fine tapering fpire, 
 rich in pompous decorations and relics, 
 but dark within as the abode of fuper- 
 ftition. It was founded by bifhop Syl- 
 vius, afterwards dubbed a faint, con- 
 tinued by St. Exuperius, and finifhed 
 by St. Raymond, 1096. Its abbot has 
 a large revenue, and prefides in his 
 chapter of 24 canons, 10 prebendaries, 
 i o priefts of the choir, a rhafter of cere- 
 monies, &c. 
 
 The pillars which fupport the roof, 
 have marred the noble fimplicity of de- 
 fign, for which the large and elevated 
 church of the Dominicans has been fo 
 much celebrated. 
 
 The Cordeliers likewife boaft of a fpa- 
 cious and well proportioned temple, with 
 its tall fpire, a neat fquare convent, with 
 a handfome garden, and cloifters hung 
 round with paintings relative to the 
 
 hiftqry
 
 TOULOUSE. 315 
 
 hiftory of St. Francis. In their charnel 
 houfe, a fubterraneous vault, are ranged 
 along the wall, and in an erect pofture, 
 about fixty or feventy corpfes, moft pi- 
 tifully fhrunk and light, the flefh and 
 hair totally decayed, but the fkin, like 
 brown leather, clofely adhering to the 
 bones. The features, in fome inftances* 
 are moft diftindtly preferved. I par- 
 ticularly recollect an aged nun, with her 
 hands crofled upon her breaft, her head 
 humbly raifed, and the configuration of 
 her lips pourtraying awe, blended with 
 pious hope and refignation. Others feem 
 to wear a cynical fmile, the rifus Sar- 
 donicus, or grin of death. Maupertuis, 
 near the clofe of life, frequently de- 
 fcended into this ghaftly manfion. A 
 friend one day afked him, at whom 
 the dead were laughing he inftantly 
 anfwered at the living. Some of 
 thefe bodies, if we can believe the 
 conductor, have remained in the vault 
 
 during
 
 316 TOULOUSE. 
 
 during four centuries, and have all been 
 taken from graves in the church ; for 
 thofe interred in the garden or cloifter 
 are confumed in the ufual way. Some 
 afcribe the fingular property of the 
 church earth to the prefence of flaked 
 lime, which had been allowed to incor- 
 porate with the foil during the building 
 of the edifice, but the monks have re- 
 courfe to the more fimple theory of a 
 permanent miracle. Similar images of 
 the departed are exhibited in the convent 
 of Capuchins near Palermo ; and the 
 ifland of Stroma, in the Pentland Frith, 
 was once noted for its repofitory of 
 mummies. 
 
 La Doradc, a church of confiderable 
 antiquity, takes its name from a gilt 
 image of the. virgin, which is borne in 
 proceflion upon occafions of public ca- 
 lamity. 
 
 The Carthufian cloifters are uncom- 
 monly extenfive, and open into an orange 
 grove. 
 
 But
 
 TOULOUSE. 317 
 
 But I fhould fpin out this account 
 through many a tedious page, did I fpe- 
 cify every church and convent in Tou- 
 loufe. Suffice it to note, that its eight 
 parifhes are ferved by their refpe&ive 
 vicars and curates, and have their feveral 
 charity-houfes, in which foups and me- 
 dicines are provided for the indigent. 
 
 The palace^ for fo the parliament 
 houfe is fly led, is an old and paltry 
 building. The parliament dates its re- 
 gular form from 1302, when its jurif- 
 di&ion comprehended, befides Langue- 
 doc, the provinces of Guienne, Dau- 
 phiny, and Provence. It is compofed 
 of the grand chamber, the tournelle, or 
 criminal court, two chambers of inquefts, 
 and one of requefts. The grand chamber 
 confifts of the firft prefident, four prefi- 
 dents a mortier, twenty-four ecclefiaftical, 
 and nineteen lay counfellors. The go-, 
 vernors of Languedoc and Guienne arc 
 likewife entitled to a feat, and the arch- 
 7 biihop
 
 318 TOULOUSE. 
 
 bifhop of Touloufe and the abbot of 
 St. Sernin are counfellors ex officio. 
 
 MV 
 
 To this department likewife belong two 
 honorary prefidents, and two honorary 
 knights. Five prefidents a mortier and 
 feventeen counfellors conftitute the tour- 
 nelle. Each of the inqueft chambers has 
 two prefidents, and from fifteen to twen- 
 ty counfellors. To the requefts are attach- 
 ed two prefidents, eleven ordinary, and 
 two honorary counfellors. Subordinate 
 to the above dcfcription of office-bearers, 
 are the advocates and folicitors general, 
 recorders, fecretaries, &c. In the printed 
 lift of advocates for this year I find two 
 
 
 
 hundred and four names. Some of them 
 merely give advice, others draw up me- 
 morials, and others plead. I hear of 
 none who are celebrated for talents of 
 argumentation or eloquent harangue, 
 and the profeflion is not efteemed the 
 moft reputable in the world. The ad- 
 vocates obvioufly faeer at the prefidents, 
 
 and
 
 TOULOUSE. 319 
 
 and the citizens at the advocates. I have 
 heard of one of the latter, named Adam y 
 who regularly prepared fpeeches for one 
 of the prefidents ; but having been fud- 
 denly called to Paris, and his employer 
 having ventured to difcourfe, was more 
 than once very ferioufly embarrafled. 
 A fly barrifter whifpered, loud enough 
 to be heard even "by the difconcerted 
 magiftrate, Adam^ where art tbouf 
 With the advocates may be clafled fixty- 
 iix principal agents, each of whom has 
 his two fubflitutes. What a numerous 
 hoft, levied for the diftribution of juftice 
 in a fingle province ! 
 
 The town-houfe, dignified with the 
 name of Capitol^ from the Capitolium of 
 70/0/2?, forms an entire fide of the public 
 fquare. The front is adorned with pil- 
 lars of the Corinthian order, of the 
 marble of Languedoc, and the windows 
 with fplendid balconies. In the great 
 hall, is a fuite of the portraits of the 
 inoft eminent citizens, an admired 
 
 painting
 
 320 TOULOUSE. 
 
 painting of the entry of Louis XIV. 
 and a public regifter of all the remark- 
 able events which have occurred in the 
 place and neighbourhood during fix 
 centuries. 
 
 The eight principal magiftrates, or 
 Capitouh) acquire nobility in virtue of 
 their election, tranfmit it to their pof- 
 terity, and are the only municipal officers 
 in the kingdom who are entitled to wear 
 the Comtal robe. Six are eleded an- 
 nually, and two re-elected- all from 
 citizens, who have been four years fuc- 
 ceflively members of the political council. 
 
 The court of exchange, erected by 
 letters patent, confifting of a prior, and 
 confular afleflbrs. nominated from the 
 
 N 
 
 mercantile clafs of inhabitants, is autho- 
 rized to judge, in the firft inftance, in 
 all queftions purely commercial, ad- 
 mifters juftice gratuitoufly, and has 
 been known to difpatch a hundred 
 caufes in one day. Whea the litigated 
 
 pro-
 
 TOULOUSE* 321 
 
 property exceeds not 500 livres, it8 de- 
 cifion is final. Parties may plead their 
 own caufe, or employ one of the four- 
 teen poftulanS) or procurators attached 
 to the court. Such a fimple and falutary 
 accommodation to the interefts of the 
 trading part of the community is, furely, 
 entitled to every praife ; but the mul- 
 tiplicity of caufes tried betrays the li- 
 tigious fpirit of the citizens, who are 
 little addicted to the purfuits of com- 
 merce. The only manufactures of any 
 confequence are thofe of blankets, wor- 
 fted (lockings, hats, and leather. In 1782, 
 the academy of fciences propofed as the 
 fubject of a prize memoir, the revolu- 
 tions of the commerce of Touloufe, and 
 the means of extending its activity. No 
 fatisfactory paper has yet appeared. 
 
 The theatre is richly decorated, and 
 
 w r eH attended ; yet the men feem not 
 
 lefs fond of the diverfion of hand-ball 
 
 than of dramatic entertainments, and 
 
 y tf /,
 
 322 TOULOUSE; 
 
 bilboquet is a favourite amufement among 
 the young of both fexes. 
 
 The bridge communicating with the 
 Fauxbourg St. Cyprien?, a folid building, 
 the work of Manfard, defer ves to bo 
 mentioned, but not in the extravagantly 
 cncomiaftic language of the Touloufains. 
 They are, indeed, extremely partial to 
 every thing conneled wkh their city ; 
 and, when they gravely aflert that the 
 latter is inferior only to Paris, it is eafy 
 to perceive that a fhort diflance feparates 
 them from Gafcony. Why boaft they 
 not rather of the noble and extended 
 frofpecl: from this bridge ? of the Py- 
 renees at 100 miles, and of the Ce- 
 vennes, blended with other heights in 
 Auvergne, apparently connecting the 
 chain of Alps ? 
 
 The univerfity, founded 1215, flill 
 retains a name as a fchool of law, and 
 has 26 profeffors. Several of its .col- 
 leges have been deferted, owing,, no 
 
 doubtj
 
 TOULOUSE. 323 
 
 doubt, in part, to an obftinate and fool- 
 ifh perfeverance in the trammels of fcho- 
 laftic routine. Profeflbrs who have 
 taught during 20 years, acquire the title 
 of Count of Laivf. But, whilft Mon- 
 tefquieu's Efprit des lolx continues to be 
 prohibited, the lectures even of a Count 
 cannot be highly captivating. 
 
 Subordinate feminaries, and private 
 teachers in all the eflential and orna- 
 mental parts of education, are by no 
 means wanting. Many^ too, are the 
 public and private libraries, and cabinets 
 of the curious. Lodging and board are 
 cheap and comfortable, and gentlemen, 
 no doubt, may be found of elegant and 
 enlightened minds. Yet would I not 
 be acceflary to placing a young foreigner 
 for his education in a city where a 
 vicious pronunciation and phrafeology 
 infect the difcourfe even of the higher 
 ranks, where fuperftition impedes the 
 progrefs of learning, where a favage in- 
 Y 2 quifition
 
 JZ4 TOULOtfSBr 
 
 quifition and the condemnation of Cafas 
 have darkened the abodes of philofophy, 
 and the academy of the Floral games. 
 The latter, I need hardly obferve, is pe- 
 culiar to Touloufe, had its origin early 
 in the I4th century, and flitt holds its 
 annual meeting upon the third of May* 
 when five prizes are^djudged to the fuc- 
 cefsful competitors in poetic competitions* 
 The character and tranfadions of 
 Marcus Antonlus Primus would occupy 
 a few pages of this chapter, were they 
 not ably fketched by that matter-painter 
 Tacitus. 
 
 Of Statins Surculus, or Urculus, we 
 know little elfe than that he was a rhe- 
 torician. 
 
 The few particulars which have been 
 tranfmitted to pofterity of the Trouba- 
 dours, Peter Vidalxs\&W illlam dc Figuelra^ 
 will be found in St. Pelaye's Memoirs on 
 Chivalry, and in Mrs. Dobfon's Abridge- 
 ment of that work. 
 
 The
 
 325 
 
 The appropriate literary reputation of 
 Buael refts upon his pure Latmity. Qf 
 mild deportment, and unambitious of 
 preferment, he confecrated his days to 
 letters and philofophy. Un t.el bomme 
 (a fneakmg literary office-hunter), ob- 
 ferves Bayle, dans If fond trh-meprifabl^ 
 ri eft point meprifi. Bunel et fesfemblablcs^ 
 dans kfond tres dignes d'ejlimc^ font re- 
 gardes ervic tnepris. And Bayle fpoke 
 the language of truth and feeling. 
 
 The name of Cujas is almoft identified 
 with that of European jurifprudence. 
 The fon of a fuller, and, in a great mea- 
 Ture, felf-taught, he frequently prele&ed 
 at Bourges to 1000 ftudents, many of 
 whom he accommodated with books 
 and money. He ufed to ftudy prone 
 on the floor, with his volumes fcattered 
 around him. Fortunately, he lived not 
 to witnefs the fhamelefs difhonour of his 
 only daughter. 
 
 y 3 Jean
 
 326 TOULOUSE. 
 
 Jean Eticnne Duranti, author of the 
 treatife dc ritibus ccclefia, fell a facrifice 
 to the fury of the leaguers. On the loth 
 of February, 1589, as he raifed his 
 hands to heaven, and prayed for his af- 
 faflins, he was mortally wounded, and 
 executed with every demonftration of 
 wanton ferocity. Yet, the year before, 
 he had laboured to protect the city from 
 the plague, had founded the college of 
 Efquille, and given repeated proofs of 
 public and private liberalities ! 
 
 Gut de Faur, feigneur of Pibrac, en- 
 joyed the well earned fame of a fcholar 
 and profound civilian. Yet few of his 
 writings are now perufed, if we except 
 his quatrains , characlerifed by an elegant 
 fnnplicity, and tranflated even into 
 Turkifh, Arabic, and Perfic. In fpite 
 of Bayle and the abbe de Condillac, the 
 circumftances related of his intrigue 
 with Marguerite, confort to Henry IV. 
 may excite the fufpicion of the candid 
 
 ancl
 
 TOULOUSE. 327 
 
 and fceptical, while his apology for the 
 maflacre of St. Bartholomew's arraigns 
 his criminal weakaefs or unprincipled 
 compliance. 
 
 Goudouli) or Goudelin^ fon of a fkilfuj 
 furgeon, published a collection of poems 
 in the Languedocian dialecl;, and is r$- 
 garded as another Homer by the good 
 people whofe idiom he has prefled into 
 the fervice of the mufes. The Englifh 
 reader will eafily difpenfe with long quo- 
 tations from the provincial bard ; but the 
 following has been remarked for its 
 foftnefs and fimplicity : 
 
 , tU\ViTl- I 2,-? y > -. t tiVifl \V\ , 
 
 jfant'u paftovrelets que Jejouts 1as oumlrelos 
 Scnlelt apazima If caltmas del jour , 
 Tant que les auzelets, per faluda I' amour, 
 Uflon le gargaiilol de mllo canfonnetos. 
 
 Go, gentle fhepherds, haunt the grove, 
 While Phoebus darts his fcorching ray- 
 Go, myriad warblers, welcome love 
 With thrilling note and roundelay. 
 
 A modeft inoffenfive demeanour en- 
 hanced the genius of Maignan a felf- 
 Y 4 taught
 
 328 TOULOUSE. 
 
 taught geometrician and natural philofq- 
 pher. 
 
 The fonnet to Cardinal Richlieu has 
 immortalized Maynard^ one of the firfl 
 poets who gave eafe and elegance to his 
 native language, whofe fociable difpofi- 
 tions are fondly quoted by his country- 
 men, and whom Voltaire has judicioufly 
 eftimated as a writer and a man. Over 
 the door of his fludy, in his country 
 retreat, were infcribed the following 
 lines : 
 
 Las ePefferer et de me plainJre 
 Det mvfes, des grands et dufort ; 
 C'ejl ici que j 1 'attends la mart, 
 
 Sans la defirer, ni la craindre. 
 
 And thus he advifes his fon to apply, 
 to the bar, rather than feek preferment 
 at court : 
 
 Toutes let pomfeufcs maifons 
 Des princes lesplus adorable* 
 We font qite de belles prifons, 
 d'tlluftres mijerablcs, 
 
 ffeureitx
 
 TOULOUSE, 329 
 
 Heureux gut vit obfcvrement 
 Dans quelqve petit coin de terre, 
 
 Et qui f approcle rarement 
 De ccux qui portent le tonnerre I 
 
 Putffes tu connmtre le pr'tx 
 Dts maximes que te debits 
 
 U* covrttfan a eheveuie grif t 
 >ue la raifen a fait. termite ! 
 
 The lively humour of Campijlron^ an 
 humble imitator of Racine, recommend- 
 ed him to the Duke of Vendome, who 
 appointed him his fecretary, and pro- 
 cured him preferment. But fo little 
 fuited was the gay indolence of his tem- 
 per to the regular difcharge of his func- 
 tions, that he frequently found it more 
 convenient to burn than to acknowledge 
 the letters addrefled to his patron. The 
 Duke obferving him one day feated by 
 the fire, with a large bundle of con- 
 demned papers, archly remarked, Voila 
 ftampiftron tout occupe afairefes reponfes. 
 Two chairmen having refufed to carry 
 him on account of his unufual weight, 
 lie fell into a violent fit of paflion, which 
 induced apoplexy and death.
 
 > VAV\ 
 
 'i 
 
 FROM IjJJSMBS TO- MARSEILLES." 
 
 v 
 
 , 1789. EAVING Nifmes a 
 fecond time, we purfued our journey 
 eaftward, over a level furface flrewed 
 with grain, vines*'; olives, and mulber- 
 ries. Curtbujfot was one of the few vil- 
 lages in our way, and fingle dwellings 
 appeared more fparingly fcattered than 
 might be expeded in fuch a fine climate, 
 and near a trading town.; oj.5i 
 
 Independently of thofe focial ties 
 which twine about the heart, local attach- 
 ments have their charms, are flrengtb- 
 ened by temporary abfence, and excite 
 a tender intereft when the fcenes with 
 which they are aflfociated are clofing 
 on the view. With fomething more 
 than curiofity did I recognize thofe parts 
 
 of
 
 FROM NISMES, &C. 33! 
 
 of the Comtat to which my eyes had 
 been lately fo familiar, and the thought 
 that I muft bid them a long, perhaps 
 an eternal farewel, only endeared them 
 to my fight. 
 
 As we began to afcend, our attention 
 was attracted by a range of hillocks, 
 crowned with decayed fortreffes, on the 
 left. From a height within a mile and 
 a half of Beaucaire^ that town and 7#- 
 rafcon feemed like a large city, traverfed 
 by a glittering ftreani j on one hand, 
 Mont-ventoux rofe ftately in the di- 
 ftance, whilft on the other, the fpires of 
 Aries pointed to a fpot of ancient fame, 
 and the reflected fun-beams defcribed 
 in dazzling characters the march of a 
 majeftic river. 
 
 Beaucaire, fuppofed to be the Uger- 
 num of the ancients, is a town of mo- 
 derate fize, in the Lower Languedoc, 
 feated at the foot of a rock, twelve miles 
 aft of Nifmes. Its modern appellation 
 
 i$
 
 33* ROM UISMES 
 
 is derived from Bdloquadra, which, in 
 Low Latin, defigned the fquare caftle 
 on the fummk of the rock. This for- 
 trefs, ftill refpeclable in its ruins, was 
 difmantlcd 1632. The town is encom- 
 pafled, rather than defended, by regular 
 walls, and contains few public buildings 
 of any confequence, except the hotel-de- 
 ville, three churches, and an abbey of 
 Benedictines. It is noted for its annual 
 fair, which is held upon the 22d of July, 
 lads three days, attracts merchants and 
 traders from various countries, even 
 from Perfia and Armenia, and occafions 
 a circulation of feveral millions of livres. 
 As the town is inadequate to the accom- 
 modation of all the ftrangers, many of 
 them pals the night in tents. 
 
 Dined at the hotel de Luxembourg with 
 two gentlemen, one of whom had de- 
 dicated the beft portion of his life to 
 foreign travel, and had acquired the 
 franknefs and urbanity of a cofmopolhe.
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 333 
 
 In his various and entertaining converfa- 
 tion, I was willing to forget the difap- 
 pointment of a proper conveyance to 
 Aries, and back to St. Remy in the eve- 
 ning, our hired mules being unequal 
 to this extra-fervice. But I cannot fo 
 readily forget the name of Jacques C&ur, 
 fuggefted by that of one of his places 
 
 of confinement. 
 
 / 
 
 From a limple trader, this extraordi- 
 nary man rofe to an unrivalled pitch 
 of commercial eminence. His three 
 hundred factors, or agents, were difperfed 
 over the world, the inventory of his 
 French eftates equalled in length the lift 
 of titles of the firft grandee of Spain, 
 his purfe and his labours were generoufly 
 employed in relieving the neceflities 
 and arranging the financial interefts of 
 the ftate. But his fplendid fortunes and 
 confequent influence of name provoked 
 the jealoufy of Charles VII. and promp- 
 ted the bafe cabal? of unprincipled cour- 
 tiers.
 
 334 FROM TTISMES 
 
 tiers. Accufed of detcfted crimes, drag- 
 ged from caftle to caftle, menaced with . 
 torture, condemned by an infamous tri- 
 bunal, ftript of his pofTeffions, and torn 
 from his family, who vainly appealed to 
 a fenfe of gratitude and juftice, Cocur 
 was for ever banifhed from the country 
 which he had blefled and adorned. 
 Hardly had he effected his efcape from 
 the prifon of Poitiers, when he was 
 again arrefted, and lodged in the- con- 
 vent of Cordeliers at Beaucaire. Per- 
 ceiving that his enemies fought his life, 
 he continued to maintain a private cor- 
 refpondence with Jean de Village, his 
 trufty friend and partner in trade. The 
 latter, accompanied by a few faithful 
 affociates, quietly effected the liberation 
 of the prifoner at midnight, and fafely 
 conducted him by land to la tour de boite^ 
 whence a bark conveyed him to Mar- 
 feilles. Village attended him by land 
 to Nice, where both embanked on board 
 
 an
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 
 
 an armed veflel, and croffed to Pifa. 
 From Pifa, they journeyed to Rome, and 
 experienced the diftinguilhed hofpitality 
 of Nicholas V. Unfortunately, that 
 good pontiff paid the debt of nature 
 before his perfecuted gueft had well re- 
 pofed from the fatigue of his wanderings 
 and the faintnefs of difeafe. Having 
 fpent fome months in fettling his affairs 
 with fuch of his agents and correfpond- 
 ents as remained true to their engage- 
 ments, Cocur took an affectionate leave 
 of his friend and deliverer, and fet fail 
 in the fleet which Calixtus III. had 
 equipped for an expedition againft the 
 Turks. As it does not appear that he 
 held a commiflion, it is fuppofed that 
 he availed himfelf of an armed convey- 
 ance to fome ifland of the Archipelago, 
 whereon he might recruit his health and 
 labour to forget his fufferings. Mon- 
 fieur Bonamy, of the academy of infcrip-, 
 jions and belles lettres, has too fuc- 
 
 cefsfully
 
 336 *ROM NISMES 
 
 eefsfully refuted the popular, but romani 
 tic, tale of his retreat in Cyprus, and a 
 return of profperous fortune. Certain 
 it is, that Cocur was landed among the 
 lick, when the fqadron touched at Chios* 
 and that he died upon that ifland in No- 
 Tember 1456. 
 
 Thus it is, that the fate of an indi- 
 vidual, in an age comparatively remote, 
 has tranfported me from the banks of the 
 Rhone to Rome, and from Rome to 
 Chios. 1 envy not his feelings who 
 would deem the digreflion excurfive or 
 prolonged. With fond, with weeping 
 intereft we liften to the tale of fancied 
 woes and fhall we difdain to trace the 
 ftriking viciffitudes of real life ? 
 
 We walked acrofs the Rhone, partly 
 on a bridge of boats, and partly on an 
 ifland formed by late accretions, and 
 which, overrun with grafs and brufh- 
 *?ood, renders the old adage, 
 
 Entrt
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 337 
 
 Entre Beaucaire et Tarafcon 
 Ne pott ni vache ni moulon, 
 
 of none effeft. The river, though broader 
 than the Thames at London, is very 
 rapid, efpecially during a flood, pre- 
 cludes every attempt at building a fton* 
 bridge, and frequently carries away the 
 boats, notwithstanding the ftrength oC 
 their moorings. When the mtftral, or 
 north-weft wind, rages upon the pafTage, 
 it is not always fafe to venture m a car- 
 riage, for coaches have been blown 
 over. We had fine calm weather, but 
 preferred footing this fmgular bridge, 
 to avoid jolting, and enjoy the very in- 
 terefting field of profpecl: which fur- 
 rounded us. Still Languedoc detained 
 my parting regards Languedoc, that 
 large and fruitful province, juftly famed 
 for its diverfity of foil and produce, its 
 cities and manufactures, its lovely land- 
 fcapes, and its genial fkies. Nor, with- 
 out feelings a-kin to regret, can I quit 
 Z the
 
 338 FROM NISMfiS 
 
 the banks of that ftream which, ifluing 
 from the happy mountains of the Val- 
 lais, has, for ages, continued its ma- 
 jeftic flow, imparting life to the (hifting 
 fcene, and enhancing the charms of 
 every fummer day. 
 
 The very moderate extent of Tarafcon 
 was remarked by Strabo, who terms it 
 iroxjfcww. It ftands dire&ly oppofite to 
 Beaucaire, at five leagues from Avignon 
 and four from Aries, has an old caftle, 
 a chapter of fifteen canons, and a few 
 convents. Its traffic confifts chiefly in 
 oil, ftarch, and a fort of ftufFs of filk 
 and woollen. The air of the environs 
 is faid to be temperate and healthy. The 
 ground is more deficient in wood than 
 in verdure or grain, and is fo light, that 
 a one horfe or one afs plough fuffices for 
 tillage. The women work much in the 
 fields, and not a few of them without 
 blockings or (hoes, or even covering up- 
 on the head to ikreen them from the fun. 
 
 Hence
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 339 
 
 Hence fo many prematurely brown and 
 withered complexions among the female 
 peafantry* 
 
 The legendary fpirit of the tenth cen- 
 tury gave currency to the tale of Laza- 
 rus. Martha and Mary having been ex- 
 pofed in the Mediterranean, in a veflel 
 without fails, and driven upon the coaft 
 of Provence, Martha, it feems, retired 
 to Tarafcon, where (he tamed a fright- 
 ful ferpent, the huge tarafque^ or de- 
 vouring dragon, a bugbear ftill dreaded 
 by the children of the country. 
 
 Claude de Bectox^ abbefs of St. Ho- 
 nore, of this place, was efteemed the 
 moft learned and accomplifhed lady of 
 her age. Francis I. recommended her 
 letters as a model of epiftolary writing, 
 and, in company with queen Margaret 
 of Navarre, honoured her with a vifit. 
 
 Privat de Mo/ierfSy a man of fcience, 
 
 calm, and even phlegmatic in his general 
 
 deportment, was tenderly alive to every 
 
 z 2 breath
 
 FROM N1SMES 
 
 breath diredled againft his darling fyftem 
 of modified vortices. If we may believe 
 his biographer, he even died of a fit of 
 paffion, induced by a violent difputation 
 in defence of his phyfical tenets. We 
 pity or deride fuch warm pertinacity ; 
 yet intemperance of zeal for precon- 
 ceived opinions difFufes its bane among 
 thoufands of the fpecies, and pollutes 
 even the receiTes of domeftic life. 
 
 Leon Menard was born 1706. His 
 writings procured him admiffion firft 
 into the academy of Marleilles, and af- 
 terwards into that of Infcriptions and 
 Belles Lettres at Paris. Modeft and un- 
 ambitious, he lived in obfcurity, and 
 died in poverty. His hiftory of Nifmes, 
 7 vols. 4to, is flrangely difproportioned 
 to his fubjedt, yet contains the materials 
 of a curious and authentic account of 
 that interefting city. 
 
 Purfued our route through fields in 
 iillow, or covered with poor grafs or 
 
 dead
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 34! 
 
 dead olives, and yielding, in turn, to the 
 almond and mulberry, fcattered over a 
 wide and fruitful plain. 
 
 Lodged at Sf. Remy, a fmall neat 
 town, with a collegiate church, founded 
 by Pope John XXII. It takes its name 
 from the canonized archbifhop of Reims, 
 who journied into Provence, in company 
 of Clovis, when the latter went to be- 
 fiege Gondebaud, King of the Burgun- 
 dians, in Avignon. Michel and Jean 
 NoftradamuS) natives of St. Remy, have 
 acquired more than their juft fame- 
 the latter by his carelefs biography of 
 theTroven9al poets, and the former, by 
 his prophetic ftanzas or centuries, which 
 were eagerly perufed in an age prone to 
 fuperftition, but, like thofe of 2\\fenjible 
 prophets, are vagXie, obfcure, or unin- 
 telligible. Jodelle's diftich deferves to 
 be qnoted for its quaint playfulnefs : 
 
 Nojlradamitt (umfalfa damus, namfallere noftrum eft, 
 JSttumfayatlartmf) mlnift nojiradamus. ' | 
 
 z 3 The
 
 34* FROM NISMES 
 
 The evening was occupied in paying 
 bur devoirs to two remarkable monu- 
 ments, which befpeak the elegance of 
 the Auguftan Age, and the ftte of Glanum 
 Uviiy a town which now exifts only in 
 name. As my remarks on the triumphal 
 arch and real or fuppofed maufoleum do 
 not materially differ from thofe of Mr. 
 Swinburn, I beg leave to refer to that 
 gentleman's Journey into Spain. A mi- 
 lord Anglois, faid our conductor, has 
 lately taken accurate meafurements ancl 
 plans of both the buildings, with a view 
 to ereft exa<3: imitations of them on his 
 own grounds. Why do not other lords 
 follow his example ? By a feries of fuch 
 tranfplantatiqns, if I may be allowed 
 the expreflion, might not palpable mo- 
 dels of ancient architecture be diffufed, 
 and tranfmitted through an indefinite? 
 fucceffion of ages. One half of the 
 Aims fquandered on the turf, or at the 
 gaming table, would deck Great Bri- 
 
 tain
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 34 
 
 tain with the obelifks, arches, amphi- 
 theatres, and temples of Greece and 
 Rome. 
 
 26//6. Our progrefs to Orgon was 
 acrofs a flat country, prefenting a fingu- 
 Jar mixture of verdant and parched 
 plains, interfered by a ridge of rock. 
 Not a femblance of a cloud fpotted the 
 iky, while Montventoux and Cavaillon 
 were eafily diftinguifhed, and the dark 
 rocks of Vauclufe frowned in the dif- 
 tance. With what eagernefs would I 
 have approached them ! That we 
 might not mifs an early paiflage to Italy, 
 we had not retarded our voiturin a fingle 
 hour; but as his mules required reft at 
 Cenas, I bargained with the poft-mafter 
 of Orgon to convey us to the Fountain, 
 a,nd back to our gite in the evening. 
 The fellow well knew that we would 
 not be allowed to re-crofs the Durance 
 after fun-fet ; and, had it not been for 
 the boatmen and poftillion, who timely 
 1 4 warned
 
 344 FROM NISMES 
 
 warned us of this circumftance, the di- 
 greffion, however defirable, would have 
 coft us another day. The poft-mafter 
 feemed not a little chagrined when he 
 found us refolute in proceeding directly 
 fouthwards, and we were not lefs fo at 
 being thus cruelly tantalized. 
 
 Orgon (Ernaginum of Ptolemy) is a 
 fmall town with a convent of Augufti- 
 niart friars. Around it there is abun- 
 dance of free-ftone, of a beautiful white. 
 The calcareous rocks are full of petri- 
 fied fhells, and one of chalk and marl 
 has been perforated for the fpace of 
 440 yards, to give paffagc to a canal 
 projected by Monfeigneur Boifgelin, 
 archbimop of Aix, and deftined at 
 once for the purpofes of commerce and 
 irrigation, but interrupted for want of 
 funds. 
 
 At Cenas, a pleafantly fituated village, 
 about three miles from Orgon, is a ba- 
 ronial caftle in ruins. The feigneur of 
 
 the
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 345 
 
 the place, notorious for his hauteur and 
 exactions, has found it prudent to quit 
 his manfion, fmce the revolution. The 
 populace, it feems, had threatened to 
 proceed to extremities. In the courfe 
 of a long journey, however, from Bare- 
 ges to Marfeilles, this was the only in- 
 ftance of public outrage which fell under 
 our obfervation. Reports of violent com- 
 motions and predatory attacks reached 
 us from every quarter, but died away 
 as we approached the fcenes of alleged 
 delinquency. In times of ferment or 
 alarm, truth feems to retreat into the 
 quiet abodes of filence and philofophy. 
 I have heard a very active and intelli- 
 gent officer, who had ferved with di- 
 tin&ion in the feven years' war, declare, 
 that he had perufed all the reputable ac- 
 counts of that memorable feries of hof- 
 tilities, and found them all deficient in 
 point of fact. And who has not heard- 
 twenty different explanations of fome 
 
 remark-
 
 346 FROM NJSMES 
 
 remarkable occurrence at the diftance, 
 perhaps, of only a few yards ? And 
 who would give implicit faith to the 
 recitals of the mod unprejudiced hifto- 
 rian? 
 
 ijth. Having ftarted before dawn, 
 our attention was attracted to the north- 
 caft quarter of the heavens by a red au- 
 rora borealis. A tranfient meteor is 
 more than fufficient to revive the fcen, 
 and afibciations of youth and home; 
 and this luminous appearance, compari- 
 tively rare in the fouth of Europe, might 
 be laid tojla/Jj upon my memory the re- 
 membrance of the paft. 
 
 Broad day-light betrayed a rocky, 
 parched, and thinly peopled country. 
 Stopt at Lambefc, a fmall town on an 
 eminence, fupplied with excellent water, 
 and enjoying an atmofphere of reputed 
 falubrity. The inn had a lefs inviting 
 afped than the private houfes. The 
 pwn- clock is one of the many inftance$ 
 
 of
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 347 
 
 of ingenious, but ufelefs contrivance, 
 upon which much valuable time and in? 
 duftry have been expended. Yet I 
 joined the badauds who applauded the 
 movements of a puppet man, woman, 
 and child, and muft acknowledge that 
 the figures acted their parts with ad* 
 mirable precifion, Hdas I exclaimed 
 pne of the by-flanders, nous ne famines 
 tons que des automates. I^ittle inclined 
 to difcufs metaphyfics jn a public ftreet, 
 I left him tQ ruminate on his delectable 
 pofition, and, impelled by the powerful 
 motives of heat and thirft, proceeded to 
 a fruit ftall, where a woman, impelled 
 by the motive of a half- penny, handed 
 me a dqzeq of peaches. 
 
 A few Almond- trees fometim,es re* 
 lieved the dreary afpec^ of rock and 
 fand. As this plant b.loflbms in Febru- 
 ary, it is liable to fuffer from late frofts, 
 and feldom yields more than one good 
 in five years. 
 
 From
 
 FROM KISMETS 
 
 prom St. Caunat rifes la Trcvareffc, 
 a calcareous hill, in which are found 
 gypfum, filex, foffil fhells, and fome 
 fragments of petrified wood. In the di- 
 rection of this ridge, at a place called 
 Calannc^ feveral varieties of lava and 
 (horl indicate an extinguifhed crater. 
 
 While the fun ftill beamed on the 
 thanklefs wafte, Aix^ in the bottom of 
 a valley nearly encompafled with hills 
 and rocks, burft on our view like a fairy 
 city. The town wall, irregular, fome- 
 what dilapidated, and deftitutk :5 6f * 
 ditch, is very inadequate to the piirp'ofes 
 of defence. But the ftreets ate hi gene- 
 ral well paved and handfome, and : the 
 houfes genteely conftrucT:ed of "a fceauti- 
 ful white ftone, with fronts ufually or- 
 namented with fctilpf.ire and balconies, 
 Hence this city, occupying a fmall fpace, 
 with a population of 24,000, has been 
 called Paris in miniature. An occafional 
 dirty lane or the oiled paper of a win- 
 dow
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 349 
 
 dow frame detracts from the general 
 complexion of elegance and grandeur. 
 The courfe (orbit die )^ formed of three 
 alleys of 300 yards in length, and 
 ftiaded by four rows of tall elms, is one 
 of the gay eft I have feen in the heart of 
 a town. Still I pity rather than admire 
 plantations in a ftreet. The centre of 
 the middle walk is frefhened and em- 
 bellifhed by four fountains, one of which 
 plays off an inceffant ftream of warm 
 water from the baths. The buildings in 
 this quarter partake of magnificence, 
 and the beau monde greatly enliven the 
 fcene on a fummer evening They who 
 can afford the requifite leifure fhould 
 examine the cathedral, a gothic ftruc- 
 ture, containing the tombs of the Counts 
 of Provence, and fome admired pic- 
 tures. But the richeft collection of 
 paintings, we were told, is in the chapel 
 of the Blue Penitents. As the fun fd- 
 dom Hands (till, a benighted traveller 
 
 would
 
 3^0 FftOM 
 
 would confider himfelf under very par- 
 ticular obligations to any difciple of a 
 Prieftly or Lavoifier, who (hould even 
 partially fupply this want of complaifance 
 in the great luminary. Before peram- 
 bulating one half of the town, the ap- 
 proach of night warned us to . refume 
 our lodgings. One of our mefuiiates 
 kindly furniflied me with the following 
 particulars: Aix is well fupplied with 
 excellent water, fiih, and fruits ; but 
 good beef and mutton, and the products 
 of the dairy can hardly be expected in 
 a country deftitute of pafture. There 
 is, befides, a deficiency of garden fluff, 
 and poultry is brought from a diflance 
 jnoftly from the. Lionnois. Handfome 
 buildings for the accommodation of 
 ftrangers have been conftru&ed near the 
 baths. The warm fources feem to differ 
 little from common water when heated, 
 but are frequently recommended in cafes 
 cf gout, dropfy, palfy, fcurvy, and con- 
 
 fumptions.
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 3I 
 
 iumptions. They were known to the 
 Romans, and, after having lain long 
 concealed, were re-difcovered about a 
 century ago. Solinus alleges that, in 
 his time, they had' loft part of their 
 heat and reputation. Their temperature 
 is nearly the fame as that of the Queen's 
 bath, at Bath. The univerfity, founded 
 1409, confifts of the three faculties of 
 theology, jurifprudence, and medicine, 
 but has never attained to great celebrity. 
 Smollet was little enamoured of the cli- 
 mate ; but, like moft invalids deprived 
 of the comfort of one's own fire-fide, 
 he was difpofed to be fretful. It is 
 rather peevifh to make the fame moun- 
 tains funnels in winter, and fcreens in 
 fummer. 
 
 Aix was the capital of the Saluvii or 
 Salii, but has its name from Aqu&, im- 
 pofed upon it by Caius Sextius Calvinus, 
 who here founded a colony. Caius Sex- 
 tiut Prgconfuly *v\6la Salviorum 
 13
 
 FROM NISMES 
 
 aquas Scxtias condidit. Liv. As this co- 
 lony was afterwards encreafed by Auguf- 
 tus, we find it alfo defigned Colonia, 
 Julia Augujla. 
 
 The olives and oil of the immediate 
 neighbourhood are reckoned the firft in 
 Provence ; and the adjacent vineyards 
 yield a confiderable quantity of wines 
 and brandy. 
 
 A fmgular affemblage of marine pe- 
 trifactions was difcovered thirty or forty 
 years ago, in the heart of a hard marble 
 quarry, 15 miles from the fea, and 648 
 feet above its level, on a fpot without 
 the town walls. Shark's teeth and fhells 
 were diftin&ly remarked; but human 
 bones, and even entire fkulls, were per- 
 ceived by the eye of fancy, while the 
 Amfterdam gazette, cool and methodical 
 in its very falfehoods, gravely aflerted 
 that men had been found in an upright 
 pofture, regularly ranged at the diftance 
 of a foot and a half, and confolidated 
 
 with
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 353 
 
 with the rock ! Guettard, of the Pari- 
 fian Academy of Sciences, was fimple 
 enough to refute thofe ftatements fo bard 
 of belief. 
 
 Storks have frequently been obferved 
 to rendezvous near the capital of Pro- 
 vence, previous to their departure for 
 Egypt or fome region of Africa. Wife 
 and happy birds ! whofe migration en- 
 fures perpetual fummer, and the multi- 
 plication of their offspring. 
 
 The tranfition is eafy from notices 
 of natural hiftory to Jofeph Pitton de 
 Tourneforf, the illuftrious botanift. In 
 the perufal of his life, we may meet 
 with few incidents of wit or humour : 
 but his labours of refearch and his un- 
 wearied philanthropy are configned in 
 lafting memorials ; while his anxiety to 
 deferve rather than to obtain applaufe, 
 is a fairer eulogy than candour will 
 allow us to beftow upon many who have 
 afpired to the pretenfions of philofophy. 
 A A
 
 354 FROM N1SMES 
 
 <2Stb. Our view of the country was 
 intercepted in the morning by a thick 
 haze. When the fun broke out, the 
 fields on every fide appeared fandy 
 and withered, though occafionally inter- 
 fperfed with gardens. The road fre- 
 quently narrowed, and, confidering that 
 it lay between two diftinguifhed cities, 
 was very little frequented. In the 
 journey of a day, as in that of life, the 
 fcenery is checquered, and an\ uninte- 
 refting pafTage may conduct to the 
 brighteft profpeds. At la Vijle^ a de- 
 lightful and roufing fpedlacle opened 
 on our view the gulf of Lyons 
 gleaming in the fun, the fail fwelling 
 from afar, dark grey mountains, roman- 
 tic rocks, pi&urefque iflets, a proud 
 city, with her fpacious port, and villas 
 crowded among vineyards, olive and fig 
 trees. A more extenfive verdure only 
 was wanting to render it truly enchanting. 
 
 Marfellles
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 355 
 
 Marfeilhs was founded about 600 
 years before the Ghriftian sera, by a 
 colony of Phoceans from Ionia, who 
 early cultivated commerce, and gave 
 umbrage to Carthage. Moulding their 
 government upon the plan of the Greek 
 republics, they early rofe to opulence 
 and fame. The public embellimmcnts 
 of their city, the plantation of their 
 colonies at Toulon, Nice, Antibes, &c. 
 their liberal encouragement of arts and 
 fciences, and their fchools, which vied 
 with the celebrated academies of Athens 
 and Rhodes, attefted, at once, the ex- 
 tent of their refources and the elegance 
 of their tafte. Cicero hefitates not to 
 ftyle Marfeilles novae Galliarum Athena-, 
 Livy praifes the highly polifhed manners 
 of the inhabitants ; and Tacitus, ufually 
 fparing enough of words and compli- 
 ments, employs the following very 
 pointed exprefllons : Arcebat eum ab 
 illecebris peccantium, prseter ipfius bo- 
 A A 2 nam
 
 356 FROM NISMES 
 
 nam integramque naturam, quod ftatim 
 parvulus fedem ac magiftram Jludiorum 
 Maffiliam habuent^ locum Graca comitate 
 et provincial} parfimonla mlftum^ ac bene 
 compofitum. It appears from Cxfar, 
 Pliny, and Juftin, that the fpirit of ci- 
 vilization and improvement was diffufed 
 over the province. We likewife learn that 
 the Romans fent their children to Mar- 
 feilles to be educated in the languages, 
 eloquence, belles lettres, and philofophy. 
 If we confider the then infant ftate 
 of navigation, and the perils incident 
 to a tedious courfe of coafting, we (hall 
 be difpofed to clafs Pytheas and Eu- 
 themenes among the firft of nautical 
 adventurers. . The former, clearing the 
 ftreights of Gibraltar, proceeded as far 
 north as Tbule (probably Iceland), and, 
 dire&ing his courfe along the fhores of 
 the Baltic, vifited the borders of the 
 Viftula; while the latter, advancing 
 fouthward, explored the coaft of Sene- 
 gal.
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 357 
 
 gal. Strabo and Pliny have openly at- 
 tacked their veracity ; and the account 
 of Thule favors, no doubt, of more 
 than Abyffinian fiction, fince earth, fea, 
 and air ceafed to exift feparately, and 
 formed a fpongy compound upon which 
 the terraqueous globe was fufpended, 
 but which was inacceflible by land or 
 water. Before, however, the reader 
 laugh or condemn, he may confult Gaf- 
 fendus In vita Pelrejkii^ and the argu- 
 ments of Bougainville and Bailly. 
 
 Crinas was a celebrated and wealthy 
 phyfician, whofe favourite prefcriptions 
 were bleeding, drinking water, and the 
 ufe of the cold bath. Part of his for- 
 tune was expended in repairing thofe 
 walls which Cacfar had demolifhed. 
 
 The political revolutions of the Maf- 
 filians may be comprifed in a few fen- 
 tences. The Romans, who had cherimed 
 their alliance, might not forgive their 
 generous adherence to the caufe of Pom- 
 A A 3 pey,
 
 TROM NISMES 
 
 pey, and the fiege which they fo long 
 and manfully fuftained, terminated in the 
 dependence of a once free and happy 
 people, in the extinction of their virtues, 
 and even of their name. In the fifth 
 century, few traces of their language 
 remained, and they tamely acknow- 
 ledged the fway of Enric, king of the 
 Vifigoths, and of Alaric, his fon. They 
 received, in fucceffion, the yoke of Theo- 
 dofius, king of the Oflrogoths, of the 
 Merovingian, Carlovingian, and Bur- 
 gundian princes, and, latterly, obeyed 
 the Counts of Aries and Povence. In 
 the reign of Lewis the Blind, and under 
 the government of Hugh Count of 
 Aries, Marfeilles, like other maritime 
 towns, experienced the wafting hand of 
 the Saracen. Under Conrad the Paci- 
 fic, it breathed from its calamities ; but 
 Us immediate governors, or vifcounts, 
 cxercifed an abfolute authority towards 
 the end of the tenth century. A faint 
 
 glimmer-
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 359 
 
 glimmering of long loft freedom marked 
 the feeble fway of the five fons of 
 GeofFroy, but became extind under the 
 reign of Charles of Anjdu, brother to 
 Saint Lewis. 
 
 The modern port is flill free, engrofTes 
 a very confiderable {hare of the Levant 
 trade, the annual exports of that de- 
 partment alone being averaged at thirty 
 millions of livres, and extends its com- 
 merce to the eaft, to Guinea, and to 
 America. The quays, extending into 
 the town, and forming a bafon capable 
 of containing 2000 fhips, are crowded 
 by Jews, Turks, Greeks, Armenians, 
 Moors, Spaniards, and Genoefe. The 
 entrance is narrow and flickered by 
 hills, with only 16 feet of water. The 
 fplendour of the adjoining buildings, 
 the buzz of tongues, the fwarms of boats 
 which ply in the harbour, and the con- 
 veyance of various commodities, afford 
 a brilliant and lively fpcclacle, to which 
 the eyes of few are familiar. 
 
 A A 4 The
 
 360 FROM NISMES 
 
 The number of inhabitants in the 
 old and new town is roundly, and, 
 perhaps, vaguely computed at 100,000. 
 Necker, who is efteemed fober and re- 
 gular in his calculations, reckons 90,000. 
 But I find Monficur Raymond, in a 
 paper inferted in the Memoirs of the 
 Medical Society at Paris, reduces them 
 to 68,508. He likewife remarks that 
 the proportion of males exceeds that of 
 females, that fmgle perfons are more 
 numerous than the married, that mar- 
 riages are lefs fruitful, and children 
 more liable to mortality than in moft 
 large towns. 
 
 One will ceafe to wonder at the lofs 
 of 60,000 by the plague, if one will 
 have the fortitude to traverfe the dirty 
 ftreets of the old town. They are 
 moftly tenanted by the lower clafTes of 
 people, efpecially by families who fubflft 
 by fiming. Many of their antique dwell- 
 ings are covered with a compofition of 
 
 clay
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 361 
 
 and ftraw, yet, placed on an eminence, 
 have fomewhat of a dignified and city- 
 like air. In this quarter, as in the lanes 
 of a certain capital, the unwary paflenger 
 may experience no very favoury regale j 
 yet, fuch is the virtue of a regular ex- 
 ercife and temperate habits, and fuch are 
 the benefits of an elevated expofure, 
 that the fimermen and their neighbours, 
 in fpite of their miferable lanes and 
 evening libations, enjoy more uninter- 
 rupted health and longer life than the 
 inhabitants of the new town. 
 
 The latter, which has rifen in the 
 courfe of the prefent century, has many 
 noble and fpacious ftreets ; and although 
 the idea of uniformity has not been fo 
 fondly cheriflied as in new Edinburgh, 
 the impartial eye of criticifin can hardly 
 be offended where a certain degree of 
 variety rather enlivens than disfigures the 
 general group. Le Cours, a ftately row, 
 which connects the old and new towns, 
 
 is
 
 362 FROM NISMES 
 
 is bordered, as at Aix, by tall and fhady 
 trees. The modern houfes of individu- 
 als are conftrucled in a handfome ftyle, 
 but few of the public edifices deferve 
 very particular notice. , 
 
 The town-houfe, upon the principal 
 quay, firft attracts the attention of a 
 ftranger. The front is richly orna- 
 mented with bas reliefs, among which 
 appear blazoned the arms of France, by 
 Puget. Its large hall, on the ground 
 floor, ferves the purpofes of an exchange, 
 but double the fpace would be required 
 to accommodate with eafe the numbers 
 that aflemble at bufmefs hours. Surely 
 the French bear fqueezing in a carriage 
 or apartment with more meeknefs than 
 the Englim. Having entered a little 
 before noon, I was accofled by a young 
 gentleman, who I found had been long 
 in Turkey, and had had occafion to ob- 
 ierve much quiet" deportment, and ex- 
 perienced much kind hofpitality even 
 
 among
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 363 
 
 among Mahometans. Believe me, con- 
 tinued he, they are not fo rude and over" 
 bearing as many would reprefent them. 
 The rabble at Conftantinople do not conjli- 
 tute a people any more than the canaille at 
 Paris ^ or watermen at London. He re- 
 prefented the trade which actually fub- 
 lifts between the Levant and the fouth 
 of France as by no means correfponding 
 to the advantages which might naturally 
 refult from relative fituation, variety of 
 produce, the low price of labour, and 
 the inaptitude of the Turks for the de- 
 tails of bufmefs. Mais, Monf.eur, les 
 
 cntraves^ les entraves His broker in- 
 
 ftantly called him away, and I could no 
 longer trace him in the crowd Our 
 fchools and colleges teach us little of the 
 ways of men and the intercourfe of na- 
 tions. If at leifure to pafs fome months 
 at Marfeilles, I fhould, for information's 
 fake, bear with a little daily juftling in 
 the Hotel de Ville. The upper apart- 
 ments
 
 364 FROM NISMES 
 
 ments contain the celebrated paintings 
 of Serre, exhibiting the ravages of the 
 plague. 
 
 The theatre is a new and tafteful edi- 
 fice, with five tires of boxes or galleries. 
 The company was numerous, and gayly 
 apparelled, but the actors rather outftept 
 the modefty of nature. 
 
 Having been too late in applying for 
 a note of admiflion into the manufac- 
 tory, we were deprived of the pleafure 
 of viewing the curious preparations of 
 coral, which, wrought into bracelets, 
 necklaces, and a variety of ornamental 
 trinkets, is exported to the Levant, Ara- 
 bia, and even Indoftan. The coral itfelf, 
 red, white, or black, or of fome of the 
 intermediate {hades, is fiflied from the 
 beginning of April to the end of July, 
 upon the coafts of Provence and Sicily, 
 but more abundantly near the African 
 fliore. Its medical properties may juftly 
 be queftioned, though fome gravely al- 
 lege
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 365 
 
 lege that it will flop at once the moft 
 violent hemorrhage, preferve houfes 
 from lightning, and counteract the influ- 
 ence of malevolent genii. 
 
 As the manufactory of quilts has de- 
 clined, that of foap has flourifhed The 
 foaperies confume no inconfiderable 
 quantity of coal. That of Newcaftle 
 is preferred, being of a fuperior quality, 
 and cheaper than coal carried landways, 
 though only fifteen miles diftant. Silks 
 and velvets, inferior to thofe of Lyons, 
 but better fuited to the Levant and Weft 
 India markets, are likewife fabricated in 
 Marfeilles : but it is chiefly foreign trade 
 which imparts activity and opulence to 
 the place. The exports, of home pro- 
 duce, are the various filken, woollen, 
 cotton, and linen fabrics of France, oil, 
 liqueurs, jewellery, and hard wares 
 of colonial articles, hides, tortoife-fhells, 
 fugar, coffee, and indigo and of foreign 
 articles, fpices, ambergreafe, dyeing 
 
 fluffs,
 
 366 FROM NISMES 
 
 fluffs, quickfilver, cork, tin, and lead. 
 The imports confift of corn, rice, rai- 
 fms, Cyprus wine, fponge, wax, drugs* 
 filks of various qualities, fluff's of goats* 
 hair, raw hides, copper, box-wood, 
 olive oil, pot-afh, galls, alum, copperas, 
 Turkey leather, carpets, printed muf- 
 lins, &c. 
 
 The Catalans, no inconfiderable tribe, 
 enjoy the exclufive privilege of dealing 
 in wine within the walls. 
 
 I have flightly hinted at the fources 
 of the wealth and fplendour of Mar- 
 feilles, and would gladly have expatiated 
 upon its commercial profperity. But 
 the half-ftarving and ragged being, of 
 the fame nature and deftiny with our- 
 felves, who fo often crofles our path 
 in the moft flouriming towns of Europe, 
 reprefles our zeal for the undue accumu- 
 lation of riches in particular fpots or in 
 the hands of any one clafs of a com- 
 munity. The inftuution of hofpitals 
 
 may
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 367 
 
 may remedy, but certainly does not re- 
 move the evil. In Marfeilles there is 
 one for poor children, another for found- 
 lings, and the Hotel-Dieu, which receives 
 yearly 1000 of the indigent. Of thefe 
 laft, one is fuppofed to die in every feven. 
 The wants of thofe who have known 
 better days, are relieved, with anxious 
 and delicate induftry, in the courfe of 
 each month, from the funds of a par- 
 .ticular fociety. The defign of fuch an 
 iaftitutloa reflects the higheft honour on 
 the feelings of its founder, and increafes 
 the public regret that part of the capital 
 fhould have been expended upon a ufe- 
 lefs hqufe and church. 
 
 Marfeilles is armed or defended by 
 walls and a citadel ; but poflefles no 
 means of vigorous refinance on the land- 
 fide. Its arfenal is provided with 40,000 
 ftand of arms. 
 
 Though included in Provence, the 
 
 Maflilians claim an independent jurifdic- 
 
 8 tion
 
 368 FROM NISMES 
 
 tion over their city and adjoining terri- 
 tory, with right to elect their own ma- 
 gi ft rates. 
 
 The corporation of fimermen is au- 
 thorized tochoofe four judges, or prudes 
 bommes (prudentes homines), who decide 
 petty caufes in the fpirit of equity and 
 good fenfe, without fubj ecting the par- 
 ties to delay, fufpence, or chicane. They 
 hold their courts on Sunday, after pub- 
 lic fervice. 
 
 The porters, too, conflitute a corpora- 
 tion. Their ftrength of body has be- 
 come almoft proverbial ; yet few have 
 recorded that fidelity for which they are 
 not lefs eminently diftinguifhed. A 
 tradefman or merchant will freely entrufl 
 his moft important keys to the porter at- 
 tached to his fervice. 
 
 The abbey of St. Victor is revered 
 for its antiquity ; but its fat revenues 
 have been fhared among fecular canons, 
 who wear a golden crofs. The vigil of 
 
 St. La-
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 369 
 
 St. Lazarus, reputed the firft bimop of the 
 place, ufed to be celebrated by the branlc 
 de St. Elme, a fort of public mafque- 
 rade, in which the mod handfome boys 
 and girls, in the fancied attire of gods 
 and goddefles, or reprefenting the alle- 
 gorical characters of nations, moved 
 through the ftreets, to the found of 
 drums and mufical inftruments. 
 
 In this really ftriking town may be 
 had almoft every article of accommo- 
 dation and moft of the luxuries of life. 
 The fea air moderates the heat of fum- 
 mer and the cold of winter, while the 
 port fupplies a daily fource of varying 
 entertainment, and commerce, by con- 
 necting individuals whom remote dif- 
 tance or jarring faith had feparated, a- 
 ferts her faireft triumph in the virtual 
 removal of waters, mountains, and fu- 
 perftition. 
 
 The town is fo confined by the fea 
 
 and high lands, as nearly to preclude 
 
 B walking.
 
 37 FROM NISME3 
 
 walking. The neighbouring foil is na-" 
 turally poor and rocky ; but climate and 
 induftry have not combined in vain to 
 (batter bloflfoms and verdure on the 
 bofom of aridity. Much nakednefs 13 
 likewife covered by the bajlldes (fmali 
 villas), which fome have eftimated at 
 five or fix hundred, and others at twelve 
 thoufand. So very vague is conjecture 
 when applied to number. Certainly 
 they are too much crowded for conveni- 
 ence or retirement and I (hould fooner 
 look for a country feat in Mofcow or 
 Smoleniko than in the vicinity of Mar- 
 feilles. 
 
 Before quitting the latter, I fhould 
 notice the eftablifhment of its academy 
 of belles lettres in 1726, under the au- 
 fpices of the marechal due de Villars, 
 then governor of Provence. It was, at 
 the fame time, adopted by the French 
 academy, to which it fends, in the way 
 of annual tribute, an eflay in profe of 
 
 verfe,
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 371 
 
 Verfe, compofed by one of its number. 
 Its twenty members aflbciate to their 
 labours as many ftrangers, who are en- 
 titled to a feat, when in Marfeilles, and 
 when abfent, annually prefent their re- 
 fpective eflays. The director and chan- 
 cellor are elected annually, and the fe- 
 cretary for life. 
 
 As in ancient, fo in modern times, 
 Marfeilles has proved the cradle of feveral 
 men of letters, tafte and genius. The 
 Chevalier d? Arvleux is advantageoufly 
 known by his travels and his oriental 
 learning. At Algiers, he ranfomed 380 
 of his countrymen from bondage a 
 noble act of charity and peremptorily 
 refufed a purfe of 600 piftoles, the tri- 
 bute of their gratitude. Father FeuilUe 
 is the learned author of the Journal d 'Ob- 
 fer vat ions qftronomiques et hot {uniques, in 
 three quarto volumes, printed at the 
 Louvre. Mafcaron obtained a diftin- 
 guimed name by his funeral orations, a 
 B B 2 fpecies
 
 372 PROMT NISMES 
 
 ipecies of compofition in which it 19 
 difficult to arrive at excellence. The 
 name of Plumisr is a fufficient panegyric 
 to all who are converfant in the walks 
 of botany. Depth of erudition and in- 
 tegrity of manners fecured folid efteem 
 to Antomc de RnfK. the author of a 
 
 *X/ * 
 
 learned hiftory of Marfeilles and of the 
 counts of Provence. Puget fketched 
 fome admired pictures as foon as he 
 eould hold the pencil. In his latter days 
 he applied exclufively to fculpture, in 
 which he furpafled, at leaft in the opi- 
 nion of his countrymen, every artift of 
 the laft century. Andre de Peyjjonel, the 
 king's phyfician at Guadaloupe, firft 
 afcertained that coral is an animal pro- 
 duction, though the merit of this dif- 
 covery has been commonly afcribed to 
 de Juffieu. Du Marfais was an acute 
 grammarian and a practical philofopher. 
 The poverty with which he ftruggled 
 during the courfe of a long life, never 
 
 ruffled
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 373 
 
 ruffled his temper, nor made him ftoop 
 to an act of bafenefs. Monjieur du Mar- 
 fais, obferved one of his wealthy but 
 niggardly acquaintance, eft un fort hon- 
 wete homme il y a quarante ans quil eft 
 mon ami, il eft pauvre^ et il ne m a jamais 
 rien demandL This unfeeling fon of 
 Plutus was probably not aware, that when 
 he pronounced the eulogy of the poor 
 grammarian, he pointed the moft ex- 
 quifite fatire againft himfelf. An illite- 
 rate gentleman, who likewife wifhed to 
 compliment Du Marfais, felicitated him 
 on the applaufe beftowed upon his 
 Hiftory of the Tropes, remarking that an 
 interefting account of that people had 
 long been wanting. Study and affluence 
 feldom go hand in hand. The hijlorian 
 of the Tropes was tutor to the fon of Law, 
 and had his fmall property involved in 
 that of the financial quack. Yet, pre- 
 vious to the failure, he had rendered 
 ferviceable to feveral perfons of 
 B B 3 rank
 
 374 FROM NISMES 
 
 rank and fortune, who totally negleded 
 him in his poverty, and imprefled on 
 his honeft heart the melancholy leflbn of 
 the littlenefs of the great. As he hap- 
 pened to pafs the corner of a ftreet, he 
 flopped to obferve the ludicrous cere- 
 mony of burning the effigy of a Swifs 
 proteftant before an image of the virgin. 
 All prefTed forward to the glowing fcene, 
 and two women were efpecially obftre- 
 perous for the precedency of paying 
 their homage. Si vous voulez frier, faid 
 one to the other, metfez vous a genoux 
 oil vous etcs ; eft ce quc la bonne merge 
 11 eft bas par tout % Du Marfais, who 
 ftood at her elbow, begged leave to re- 
 mind her that omniprefence was an ex- 
 clufive attribute of Deity, and could riot 
 belong to the Holy Virgin. Voyez, donc^ 
 exclaimed the enraged female, ce vlcux 
 coqiiln^ cet huguenot, ce parpaillot^ qui 
 pretend quc la bonne vierge neft pas par 
 tout. Inuantly the mob attacked him 
 
 as
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 375 
 
 as a .blafphemer, and, had it not been 
 for the feafonable interference of the 
 guard, would have facrificed him to 
 their fury. At the age of eighty, he 
 met the approach of death without fear 
 and -without regret. 
 
 Spondanus, Bouche, and Noguier, 
 aflert a curious fact, namely, that in 
 1596, fhoals of dolphins infefted the 
 .port and ftreets of Marfeilles, crowded 
 into the {hips and galleys, fome of which 
 they funk, devoured the bodies of mari- 
 ners who fell into the water, and com- 
 pelled the tradefmen to fhut their {hops. 
 Recourfe was had, but in vain, to various 
 expedients of deftruction. Thefe boun- 
 ding guefts made good their quarters 
 during a complete month. At length a 
 deputation was fent to Cardinal Acqua- 
 viva, then legate at Avignon. His 
 -eminence difpatched Bordini, btthop of 
 Cavaillon, who, in virtue of his exor- 
 ,cifmg talents, commanded the invaders 
 B B 4 jo
 
 376 FROM NISMES 
 
 to retire, and they difappeared in a twink- 
 ling. Manifeftofegnoy obferves the pious 
 Fantoni Caftrucci, della potcjla ddla chi- 
 efa Romana, ctfe la vera chiefa dl Chrijlo^ 
 dato oportiuiamente^ o per converfione, o 
 per confufione degli eretici di quel tempo. 
 Did Bondini's exorcifm confift in a little 
 Italian flynefs ? or had the dolphins pre- 
 vioufly indicated a difpofition to take 
 leave ? 
 
 The accidental circumftance of await- 
 ing at this fea-port a fair wind for Italy, 
 reminded me of the following little 
 narrative. 
 
 A young man, named Robert, fat 
 alone in his boat, in the harbour of 
 Marfeilles. A ftranger had ftept in and 
 taken, his feat near him, but quickly 
 rofe again ; obferving, that, fmce the 
 matter had difappeared he would take 
 another boat. " This, Sir, is mine," 
 faid Robert, " would you fail without 
 *' the habour?" " I meant only to 
 
 move
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 377 
 
 " move about in the bafon, and enjoy 
 " the coolnefs of this fine evening. But 
 " I cannot believe you are a failor." 
 " Nor am I yet on Sundays and holi- 
 " days, I ad the bargeman, with a view 
 " to make up a fum." " What ? covet- 
 " ous at your age ! your looks had al- 
 " moft prepofTefled me in your favour." 
 " Alas ! Sir, did you know my fitu- 
 " ation, you would not blame me." 
 " Well perhaps I am miftaken let us t 
 *' take our little cruize of pleafure, and 
 cc acquaint me with your hiftory." 
 
 The ftranger having refumed his feat, 
 the dialogue, after a ihort paufe, pro- 
 ceeded thus. " I perceive, young man, 
 " you are fad what grieves you thus?" 
 " My father, Sir, groans in fetters, and 
 " I cannot ranfom him. He earned a 
 " livelihood by petty brokerage, but, in 
 " an evil hour, embarked for Smyrna, 
 *' to fuperintend^ in perfon the delivery 
 ** of a cargo, in which he had a concern. 
 
 " The
 
 FROM NISMES 
 
 ** The veflel was captured by a Barbary 
 " coriair, and my father was conducted 
 " to Tetuan, where he is now a flave. 
 " They refufe to let him go for lefs than 
 " 2000 crowns, a fum which far exceeds 
 w our fcanty means. However we do 
 " our beft my mother and fifters work 
 " day and night I ply hard at my ftated 
 " occupation of a journeyman jeweller, 
 " and, as you perceive, make the moft I 
 v " can of Sundays and holidays. I had 
 " refolved to put myfelf in my father's 
 " (lead ; but my mother, apprized of my 
 " defign, and dreading the double pri- 
 " vation of a hufband and only fon, 
 u requefted the Levant captains to re- 
 " fufe me a paflage." " Pray, do you 
 " ever hear from your father? Under 
 * c what name does he pafs? or what is 
 " his mafter's addrefs !" " His mafter 
 tl is overfeer of the royal gardens at 
 44 Fez and my father's name is Robert 
 ** at Tetuan, as <it Marfeilles." " RQ- 
 
 " bert
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 379 
 
 " bert- overfeer of the royal gardens?" 
 " Yesi Sir." " I am touched with 
 " your misfortunes but venture to pre- 
 " did their termination." 
 
 Night drew on apace. The unknown, 
 upon landing, thruft into young Robert^ 
 hand a purfe containing eight double 
 louis d'ors, with ten crowns in filver 
 and inftantly difappeared. 
 
 Six weeks had pafled fince this adven- 
 ture, and each returning fun bore wit- 
 nefs to the unremitting exertions of the 
 good family. As they fat one day at 
 their unfavoury meal of bread and dried 
 almonds, old Robert entered the apart- 
 ment, in a garb little fuited to a fugitive 
 prifoner, tenderly embraced his wife 
 and children, and thanked them with 
 tears of gratitude for the fifty louis they 
 had caufed remit to him on his failing from 
 Tetuan, his free paflage, and a comfort- 
 able fupply of wearing apparel. His 
 aftonifhed relatives eyed one another in 
 
 filencc
 
 380 FROM NISMES 
 
 filence. At length, Madame Robert, 
 iufpe&ing her fon had fecretly concerted 
 the whole plan, recounted the various 
 inftances of his zeal. " Six thoufand 
 *' livres," continued fhe, " is the fum 
 * we wanted and we had already pro- 
 " cured fomewhat more than the half, 
 " owing chiefly to his induftry. ' Some 
 *' friends, no doubt, have afliftcd him 
 *' upon an emergency like -the prefent." 
 A gloomy fuggeftion croffed the father's 
 mind. Turning fuddenly to his fon, 
 and eyeing him with the fternnefs of dif- 
 tracYion, " unfortunate boy," exclaimed 
 he, " what have you done ? How can 
 " I be indebted to you for my freedom, 
 * c and not regret it? How could you 
 " effect my ranfom, without your mo- 
 <l ther's knowledge, unlefs at the ex- 
 * c pence of virtue ? I tremble at the 
 *' thought of filial affection having be- 
 " trayed you into guilt. Tell the truth 
 <; at once and let us all die, if you 
 
 " have
 
 TO MARSEILLES. 381 
 
 " have forfeited your integrity." " Calm 
 your apprehenfions, my deareft fa- 
 ther," cried the fon, embracing him, 
 no, I am not unworthy of fuch a pa- 
 rent, though fortune has denied me the 
 fatisfadion of proving the full ftrength 
 of my attachment I am not your deli- 
 " verer but I know who is. Recollect, 
 " mother, the unknown gentleman, who 
 " gave me the purfe. He was particular 
 w in his enquiries. Should I pafs my life 
 " in the purfuit, I muft endeavour to 
 ** meet with him, and invite him to 
 *' contemplate the fruits of his benefi- 
 " cence." He then related to his father 
 all that pafled in the pleafure-boat, and 
 removed every diftreffing fufpicion. 
 
 Reftored to the bofom of his family, 
 Robert again partook of their joys, prof- 
 pered in his dealings, and faw his child- 
 ren comfortably eftablimed. At laft, on 
 a Sunday morning, as his fon fauntered 
 on the quay, he recognized his benefac- 
 
 tor,
 
 382 FROM NISMES 
 
 tor, clafped his knees, and entreated him 
 as his guardian angel, as the faviour of 
 a father and a family, to fhare the happi- 
 nefs of his own creation. The ftranger 
 again difappeared in the crowd but, 
 reader, this ftranger was Montefquieu.
 
 ( 383 ) 
 
 CHAR XII. 
 
 FROM MARSEILLES TO PISA. 
 
 QElober 6, 1789. JLJ.AVING agreed with 
 the matter of a French tartane for our 
 paflage to Leghorn, we were towed out 
 of the harbour at five o'clock in the 
 morning. When the fails were fet, and 
 a boat had brought off frefh provifions, 
 we fcudded under a fmart breeze, paff- 
 ing the chateau fflf^ a fortrefs planted 
 upon a rocky iflet, and ufed, occafionally, 
 as a ftate prifon. Monfieur le Comte 
 d e , and I, as the wind rofe, crawled 
 into the boat, which was lafhed to the 
 deck, and afforded us the only clean 
 feat which could be procured ; for the 
 cabin was full of merchandize and dirt, 
 and peculiarly loathfome to frefh water 
 
 Jailors,
 
 384 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 failors. We were both Tick enough in 
 the open air. The many kind attentions 
 and enlivening converfe of a Greek fai- 
 lor contributed not a little to beguile the 
 irkfomenefs of our fituation. I found 
 he had been unfortunate in his adven- 
 tures, but feemed happy as a prince (if 
 princes are happier than others), and 
 had gained the affections of all the crew. 
 He ipoke French with tolerable eafe, 
 and blended his modern Greek with 
 lingua Franca. Though converfant in 
 the geography of the Mediterranean, 
 neither he nor his captain could affign 
 any fatisfadory reafon why this part of 
 it fhould be termed the Gulph of Lyons. 
 The capital of the Lionnois is obvi- 
 oufly too remote from the fhore to im-* 
 part its name to any portion of the fea. 
 William of Nangis ufes the expreffion 
 mare boats, and the gtilpb of the lion 
 has been conjectured to be the proper 
 interpretation, either on account of the 
 
 high
 
 TO PISA. 3j 
 
 high fwells to which it is incident, or 
 from the armorial lion of the MafTilian 
 Greeks. The fifh caught for the Mar- 
 feilles market confift of tunney, turbot, 
 ray, thornback, groundling, mullet, 
 pilchard, roach, mackarel, gilt-head, 
 bream, &c. But I was little in a mood 
 for profecuting fuch enquiries, and re- 
 collect little more than that we had the 
 coaft of Provence vifible on the left, 
 that we had a diftant peep of Toulon, 
 and that, with the fall of night, We were 
 abreaft of Antibes and Nice* Fortunately 
 the moon fhone bright; and, as we 
 brumed along the white and dark furges, 
 under fore and fore-top fail, I imaged 
 cndlefs groups of fantaftic figures, a no- 
 vel amufement which fupplied the want 
 of fleep and dreams. 
 
 7/. By day-break, we were in fight 
 
 of Corfica, whofe high lands were tipt 
 
 with fnow. The lower valiies were 
 
 fhrouded in fogs, while we enjoyed a 
 
 c c brifk
 
 386 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 brifk breeze and pure iky. We cleared 
 Capo Corfo about noon, and foon after 
 defcried the fhores of Genoa and Tuf- 
 cany. Italia Italia ! Yet did Neptune 
 befpray us mod unmercifully, and 
 the vermicelli foup ferved to the crew 
 was mingled with a faltnefs not its own. 
 Drenched and exhaufted, we now eagerly 
 Syed our deftined port, as it grew upon 
 the fight. Some Englifh failors were 
 the firft to affift in hauling us into 
 fmooth water, among the fmall craft, 
 though they knew the vefTel to be French, 
 and expected nothing for their trouble. 
 I believe their generous propenfity to 
 lend a band accompanies them through 
 every corner of the world an excel- 
 lent propenfity, not in failors only, but 
 in thofe of every rank and condition. 
 As the health-office is fcrupuloufly fhut 
 at fun-fet, we could not land till next 
 morning. For the fake of variety the 
 French count ftiifted his quarters to a 
 
 coil
 
 TO PISA. 387 
 
 coil of ropes : I ftill preferred the boat, 
 but neither of us dozed fo profoundly 
 as our vigilant guard, a ragged fellow, 
 with a nifty bayonet, who was fent on. 
 board, not to protect us from nightly 
 depredations, but to prevent us from at- 
 tempting to get on more. For this 
 friendly fervice, he expe&s a douceur 
 from each paflenger yet Leghorn is a 
 free port ! 
 
 %tb. This morning we attended Pa- 
 gan, our captain, to the office, where the 
 bills of health were infpected. We were 
 then required to give in our names, 
 that of our country, and that of the inn 
 at which we were to lodge. Once more, 
 Leghorn is a free port I It is fecured, 
 on the land fide, by a moat and baftions, 
 and the harbour is defended by a double 
 battery. The town is of a quadrangular 
 form, with handfome wide flreets, well 
 paved, and clean. The houfes are, for 
 the moft part, conftructed of brick, 
 c c 2
 
 388 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 with ruftic coins of ftone. Moft of the 
 windows on the ground floor are fe- 
 cured with iron bars againft the intru- 
 fion of thieves and gallants. Thepiazza 
 grande^ or public fquare, is more con- 
 fpicuous for its dimenfions than for ftrik- 
 ing edifices, and regularity, rather than 
 fplendour, characterizes the general af- 
 pecl; of the town. One o'f the moft 
 ftately buildings is the new theatre, 
 which indifpofition prevented me from 
 vifiting. The Duomo, or principal 
 church, defigned by Georgio Vafari, 
 has a chapter of canons. There are, 
 befides, feven parifti churches and twelve , 
 convents. Jews, Greeks, and Englifh 
 are allowed to perform public worfhip 
 in their refpeclive chapels ; and, among 
 the numerous hofpitals, one is deftined 
 to the Turks. The quarter between the 
 public fquare and the weft end of the 
 town, is termed la piccolo. Venez,ia^ on 
 account of its canals, which, bordered by
 
 TO PISA. 389 
 
 excellent quays, and croffed by marble 
 bridges, afford a commodious convey- 
 ance for all defcriptions of goods, to the 
 very warehoufes of the merchants. 
 Near to the harbour is a marble ftatue, 
 erected by Cofmo II. in honour of his 
 father Ferdinand I. who erected the 
 double mole, which projects a great way 
 into the fea, affords a depth of 36 feet 
 water, and ftill retains the name of Molo 
 Ferdinando. The four African (laves in 
 bronze, twice as large as, the ordinary 
 fize, and chained to the corners of the 
 pedeftal, are more admired than Ferdi- 
 nand himfelf. The living Jlaves are 
 condemned to work the dragging engines 
 fixed to lighters. Convicts, whofe fer- 
 vices are adjudged for life, wear a yel- 
 low cap and jacket the others have 
 both of a dingy red. It may feem more 
 cruel to exact fervitude than death, and 
 galley- flaves rivetted to hopelefs drudgery 
 in a free port is a painful folecifni. But 
 c c 3 the
 
 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 the abolition of capital punifhments has 
 diminifhed the frequency of murder; 
 and the felons, though no longer free, 
 are not overftrained, or treated with 
 wanton feverity. The ftate fanclions 
 no fyftematic traffic in human flem, nor 
 dignifies with the appellation of com- 
 merce the fouleft outrage on huma- 
 nity. The darftna^ or inner harbour, 
 is a capacious bafon, in which the Duke's 
 galleys are ufually laid up in ordinary. 
 Adjoining to it is the lazaretto , a com- 
 modious infulated building, deftined to 
 thofe who are obliged to perform qua- 
 rantine. Near the moleto^ or quarantine 
 road for fhips, are two white towers, 
 ere&ed upon rocks. The higheft, called 
 ma'zocco^ is uled as a powder magazine. 
 In the other is a fpring of frefh water, 
 which fupplies part of the fhipping. 
 Good water i, however, fcarce at Leg-* 
 horn that of the public fountain being 
 drinkable. The rain is greenly 
 
 collected
 
 TO PISA. 391 
 
 collected in large earthen jars, and fome 
 of the more opulent inhabitants fetch 
 their water from Pifa. La Bocca^ a 
 fnug bafon, is allotted to fmall craft. 
 The light-houfe, when feen from the 
 extremity of the mole, figures like one 
 tower placed upon another, and ferves 
 as a beacon to a reef of rocks. It was 
 creeled 1543, by Duke Cofmo the firft, 
 who, in a great meafure, rebuilt the 
 the harbour according to the plan of the 
 celebrated architect, Ammanato, and 
 conferred upon Leghorn its boafted im- 
 munities. The rearing of moles in the 
 Mediterranean, is a work of immenfe 
 labour and expence, as huge mafles of 
 ftone are heaped under water, to ferve 
 as a foundation. In furveying thefe fo- 
 lid ftructures, I reflect with pleafure on 
 the ufeful magnificence of the Medicean 
 family, and am -tempted to exclaim, 
 wben Jball we fee their like again. 
 
 c c 4 Veflels
 
 392 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 Veflelsof almoft every trading country 
 frequent this port. The crowd of {hip- 
 ping is not fo great as at Marfeilles, but 
 the proportion of Britifh bottoms is 
 more confiderable. The feveral com- 
 mercial nations have their refpedive con- 
 fuls, and all difputes which arife in the 
 courfe of multiplied mercantile tranf- 
 a&ions are adjufted with laudable 
 promptitude and impartiality. Jews 
 are not lefs favoured than Catholics ; 
 and it has become a local proverb, that 
 one had rather offend the Grand Duke 
 than a fon of the circumcifion. The 
 Englifh exports for Leghorn are chiefly 
 fait fiih from Newfoundland, woollen 
 and cotton fabrics, and hard wares, in 
 exchange for which are {hipped mixed 
 cargoes of wine, oil, filks, fruits, {efpe- 
 cially juniper berries,) anchovies, marble, 
 Parmefan cheefe, and rags. Though' 
 goods are not liable to be vifited, fome 
 are prohibited entrance, as Bolognefe 
 
 liqueurs,
 
 TO PISA. 393 
 
 liqueurs, and others are fubject to heavy 
 duties, if carried beyond the liberties 
 of the town. A flight tax, regulated 
 by the number and fize of the bales of 
 goods, is levied as wharfage. The active 
 portion of 50,000 individuals, who com- 
 pofe the population of the place, is 
 chiefly occupied in brokerage and the 
 various departments of foreign trade. 
 Few of the principal merchants of Leg- 
 horn are Tufcans, for few Tufcans have 
 large capitals. But as their nobility do 
 not difdain the purfuits of commerce! 
 and the laws of primogeniture have been 
 duly modified, they may expect to {hare 
 the proportion of wealth due to their 
 enterprize and perfeverance. 
 
 The only manufacture of any note 
 is that of coral, which is fifhed off the 
 coafls of Sardinia, Corfica, and Tunis. 
 Micali's magazine .difplays one of the 
 richeft and moft various aflbrtments of 
 Saleable commodities that is, perhaps, to 
 
 be
 
 394 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 be feen in any one fhop in Europe. 
 When lighted up, its luftres, mirrors, 
 and eight clerks, befides other fons of 
 the counter, befpeak the fplendour of 
 an Arabian tale. A ftranger is particu- 
 larly ftruck with the number and fre- 
 quentation of the coffee houfes, and the 
 quantities of ice fo exquifitely prepared, 
 and at fuch moderate prices. 
 
 If the polite fcholar will pardon me 
 the fudden tranfition, I would beg leave 
 to acquaint him that he may likewife be 
 accommodated upon reafonable terms 
 with copies of the Italian claflics, printed 
 in a neat type, though not immaculate. 
 LafTels mail recount the ftate of litera- 
 ture as good bargains are preferred in 
 this place before good books, fo there is no 
 academy of wits, or any other record of 
 learned men in it. 
 
 Leghorn, originally an obfcure vil- 
 lage, dates its profperity from the period 
 when the Genoefe gave it in exchange 
 
 for
 
 TO PISA. 
 
 for Sarfana^ which had the rank of a 
 bi (hop's fee. Cqftnim de Liburno, its 
 appellation in Low Latin, gave rife to 
 the Italian Livorno, which the French, 
 by an eafy licence, converted into Li- 
 vourne, and the Englifh, with the coarfe- 
 nefs of tars, into Leghorn. It ftands at 
 44 leagues S. of Pifa, 18 S. W. of Flo- 
 rence, and 58 N. W. of Rome. 
 
 * Like Moliere's good cit, who fpoke 
 profe without knowing it, I would not 
 have been confcious of thefirocco y which 
 regaled us after landing, had not the gen- 
 tleman to whom we were recommended 
 aflured me that it actually blew. 
 Though flowly recovering from a late 
 indifpofition, I could perceive nothing 
 oppreflive or malignant in the open air. 
 But in other regions and in other fea- 
 fons, it may produce the effects which 
 travellers have afcribed to it. 
 
 loth. This morning we took poft for 
 the baths of Pifa, The diftance to Pifa 
 
 itfelf
 
 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 itfelf is reckoned fourteen Knglim miles, 
 and two furlongs. At firft we drove' 
 over a country moftly flat and rather 
 dull, but as we approached the laft men- 
 tioned town, we found ourfelves in the 
 mid ft of an extenfive and fertile plain, 
 which is fkreened from the blafts of the 
 north by high mountains, that form a 
 delightful boundary to the perfpecYive. 
 Towards the end of vintage, and begin- 
 ning of winter, mod of Tufcany is 
 liable to be drenched, though not every 
 year, with copious difcharges from the 
 clouds. Snow, however, is feldom feen, 
 as the Appenines fkreen the plains from 
 the tramontane blafts, while the fea 
 to the fouth, imparts an agreeable tem- 
 perature to the atmofphere. Cottages, 
 farm-houfes, and inclofures, were more 
 frequent than in the country we had juft 
 left. We likewife obferved confiderable 
 groves of French oak and cork- tree, with 
 their underwood moftly of myrtle. The 
 5 cork-
 
 TO -PISA. 397 
 
 cork-tree, quercus fuber, Lin. grew not 
 in Italy in the days of Pliny, but feems 
 to thrive well in tracts little iuceptible 
 of culture. When twelve years old, its 
 bark ought to be ftripped, to make way 
 for the new one and the operation, is 
 repeated once every eight or ten years, 
 during fair fettled .weather, ufually in 
 the month of July, as rain is very apt 
 to injure the new formed bark. The 
 firft and fecond ftrippings are of a very 
 inferior quality. The tree continues 
 healthy during a century and a half, if 
 regularly deprived of its outer bark at 
 the end of eight or ten years. I need 
 hardly add, that the cork is flattened 
 and prepared for ufe, by fteeping it in 
 water, and placing it over a fire of char- 
 coal. In Barbary, where this tree 
 abounds, they form it into cylindrical 
 bee-hives; and, in fo me parts of Spain, 
 they convert it into roofing and lining 
 for their houfes. The Grecian ladies 
 
 are
 
 PROM MARSEILLES 
 
 are faid to have been the firft who em- 
 ployed it for the foles of their flippers, 
 on account of its lightnefs and refiftance 
 of moifture. But its moft valuable pro- 
 perty, and that which is moft neglected 
 is its buoyancy. Why {Hould not every 
 mariner be furnifhed with one of the 
 abbe de la Chapelle's jackets, which he 
 t2\\$Jcaphandre^ and which enabled him 
 to preferve an erecl: pofture in the deepefl 
 parts of the Seine, and, in that pofition, 
 to fire a piftol and drink a glafs of wine ? 
 The beautiful and fragrant orange tree 
 here thrives perfectly well in the open 
 air; bdt the citron and lemon are culti- 
 vated only in gardens. 
 
 The rain ceafed as we arrived at Pifa* 
 But, without halting there for the 
 prefent, we drove about four miles north- 
 wards to the baths, where we pafled a 
 few weeks of delightful weather. Pliny 
 is the only ancient writer who notices 
 the baths of Pifa, or, as they are ufually 
 
 defigned,
 
 TO PISA. 399 
 
 defigned, by the modern Tufcans, / bagni 
 di San Giuliano. In the beginning of 
 the thirteenth century, certain regu- 
 lations were adopted for the convenience 
 and accommodation of ftrangers, who 
 reforted to the fpot to obtain the blefling 
 of the waters or of the faint. Ugolino 
 da Monte Catinl firft celebrated the vir- 
 tues of the former ; and he has been 
 followed by Savonarola^ Fallopio^ Cocchi^ 
 Biancbi) &c. Could we implicitly be- 
 lieve thefe and other advocates of St. 
 Julian's baths, we fhould aflert that the 
 latter are of fmgular efficacy in cafes 
 of apoplexy, epilepfy, bile, head-ach, 
 eye-ach, ear-ach, indigeftion, gout, hy- 
 pochondria, dropfy, confumption, &c. 
 But fuch indifcriminate commendation 
 fmells rather ftrongly of a quack's ad- 
 vertifement. Capacclo of Naples, in his 
 treatife del Bagni, warmly commemo- 
 rates their virtues in removing fymp- 
 toms of gout and a difordered liver, 
 
 while
 
 400 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 while Vidto of Florence afcribes to the 
 Queen's bath the property of correcl> 
 ing the humours of the uterus, and 
 Cambiagi boldly affirms that it has cured 
 fterility. According to the refults of 
 feveral chemical analyfes, thefe waters 
 are impregnated with gypfum and in- 
 confiderable portions of bitumen, vitriol^ 
 nitre, and common fea-falt. They are 
 nearly of the fame temperature with 
 that of the atmofphere in mid-fummer, 
 and give to linen or ftones a tinge of 
 yellow, bordering upon green. The 
 prefent commodious buildings were 
 erected under the infpecYion of the 
 Count di Richecour, at the requeft of the 
 Emperor Francis L 1743. Befides ample 
 lodging for the fick and their attendants, 
 they contain 29 bathing rooms, fix 
 pump baths, and two dry bagnios. Each 
 bathing place has its,clofet and chimney; 
 and drinkers of the water have the con- 
 venience of a covered gallery for walk- 
 ing in wet or hot weather. The Cafino^ 
 
 or
 
 TO PISA. 40* 
 
 Cr principal hotel, is a large but plain 
 edifice, with a few public rooms, and 
 feveral fuites of apartments for private 
 lodging. There are likewife detached 
 houfes, in which individuals or parties 
 may be accommodated during the water- 
 ing feafon. As that was already pad 
 (it lafts from May till Oaober), the 
 place feemed to be deferted, yet poflefled 
 not a few of thofe attractions which are 
 independent of fociety. The fcenery* 
 around has a warm and diverfified afpecT:, 
 and the fields are never deftitute of ver- 
 dure. Near the baths is a fteep and 
 high hill, over-grown with myrtle. An 
 eafy ferpentine foot-path conducts to its 
 top, from which the beholder gazes 
 on a luxuriant extent of chequered 
 plain, the hilly regions towards Lucca, 
 the picturefque view of Pifa, and a por- 
 tion of the Mediterranean. In the courfe 
 of our little pedeftrian rambles, we faw 
 few cattle upon the farms, and were 
 D D in-
 
 402 TROM MARSEILLES 
 
 formed that they are moftly houfed, for 
 the fake of the manure, as fodder can 
 be procured for them in the midft of 
 winter. Two oxen or two coius, often 
 of a whitifh breed, fuffice for ploughing 
 the ftrongeft foil. Their place is fome- 
 times fupplied by buflfalos, two of which 
 are faid to be equivalent to four horfes 
 .in draft. This race of animals was 
 introduced into Italy about the end of 
 the 1 6th century; and has, probably, 
 degenerated. At lead, I faw none of 
 the fize of an ordinary bull. Though 
 of lefs tractable difpofitions than the lat- 
 ter, they are eafily driven along, by 
 means of a cord, attached to an iron 
 ring, pafled through their noflrils. The 
 infertion of this ring is not effected 
 without much trouble and rifk ; for the 
 animal mud be previoufly thrown upon 
 his back, and his feet tied with ftrong 
 ropes. The men who unbind him muft 
 inftanftly take to their heels, as he runs 
 
 about
 
 TO PISA. 403 
 
 about quite furious, and ftrikes what- 
 ever ' comes in his way, making every 
 effort to detach the badge of fervitudCj 
 to which he becomes reconciled only by 
 habit. It is not unufual to allow the 
 buffalos to range for their fubfiftence in 
 the woods, and catch them by means of 
 large dogs, which dexteroufly lay hold on 
 them by the ear, and conduct them to 
 the yoke. At the age of twelve they 
 are often fattened for the Jews, who eat 
 their flefh. The female gives more milk 
 than a cow, but it taftes of mufk, and 
 is not generally relimed. In fome parts, 
 it is made into cheefe. A more docile 
 and interefling animal, which fometimes 
 crofled our path, was the dromedary, of 
 which the Grand Duke keeps a confider- 
 able number in the neighbourhood of 
 Pifa. In refpect of appearance and 
 manners they anfwer to the well known 
 accounts of travellers and naturalifts. A 
 horfe not accuftomed to the fight of them, 
 D D 2 is
 
 404 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 is ftartled at their appearance; but the 
 antipathy is not mutual, nor is it by any 
 means fo decided as many authors have 
 aflerted. The callofities of their limbs 
 may be the effect of thofe conftrained 
 poftures to which they are fubjedted 
 from their birth ; but if it be a fact, that 
 they never allow themfelves to be over- 
 loaded, no length of fervitude will ac- 
 count for the unfightly protuberance on 
 the back. 
 
 In this diftricl:, moft of the farms are 
 fmall, and feldom yield an adequate re- 
 turn to the tenant, when he covenants 
 to give the half of the produce to the 
 landlord, as is too often the cafe. In- 
 clofures of thorn, fweet briar, myrtle, vir- 
 gin's-bower, &c. with dropping hedge- 
 rows ufually bound the farm, which is 
 frequently bifedted longitudinally by a 
 double row of mulberries, while the 
 cottage, for the moft part, near the cen- 
 tre, is almoft hid among foliage. Much 
 
 ground
 
 TO PISA. 405 
 
 ground is allotted to gardening, as the 
 common people eat little animal food ; 
 and, in their horticultural operations, 
 fpare neither water nor manure. Yet, 
 furely, in fuch a favoured climate, they 
 might add to their catalogue of efculent 
 plants. 
 
 Could I prefume to {ketch the charac- 
 ter of a people from cafual obfervation 
 and reading, I would allow to the Tuf- 
 can a love of arts and finery, dex- 
 terity and perfeverance, attachment to 
 his patriotic fovereign, with more than 
 an ordinary fhare of duplicity and gri- 
 mace. In the higher circles, I could in- 
 fiance acts of meannefs which an Englifh 
 gentleman would with difficulty believe. 
 But this ftridure applies not exclufivcly 
 to Tufcany, and Teems to form a feature, 
 of Italian manners. 
 
 Having fpent moft of the winter at 
 Pifa, a few remarks relative to that ve- 
 nerable city will complete the plan of 
 thefe mifcellaneous diaries. 
 
 D D 3 Anti-
 
 406 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 Antiquarians afcribe the origin of 
 this city to a colony from that of the 
 fame name in Greece, and have, con- 
 fequently, imparted to the Arno the po- 
 etical appellation of A/fco. Virgil has 
 certainly fung : 
 
 Terlium tile kom'inum, Uivumque Interpret Ajyllat, 
 Cut pecudumjibrxy cceli culJtJera parent, 
 Et lingua volucrum, et prafagi fulmlnis ignes 
 Mille rapit denfos acie, atque hnrrcntilus hajl'is- 
 Hos parere jubent ALTHE.JE AB ORIGINS PISM, 
 
 URBS ETRVSCA SOLO. 
 
 EN. x. 175. 
 
 Plfcc Inter amnes^ fays Pliny, Auftrem 
 et Arnum orta a P elope Pifisque, Jive a' 
 Teutanis Grteca genie. From Liyy, Di- 
 onyfius of Halicarnaflus, Strabo, &c. 
 we learn that the Pifans cultivated a clofe 
 connection with their conquerors, and 
 gloried, without a blufh, in the humili- 
 ating defignation of Colonla obfequens 
 Jlcmana. Their fawning arts pafied 
 not unnoticed by the Emperors ; and, 
 
 in
 
 TO PISA. 407 
 
 in Rome, a Pifan could always find em- 
 ployment, and was eligible- to the office 
 of magiftrate, as if he had been born 
 in the great city. Availing themfelves, 
 however, of the diibrdered ftate of Italy, 
 during the downfall of the empire, they 
 again rofe to the independance of a re- 
 public. Many and fevere were their 
 conflicts with the Saracens, whom they 
 ufually defeated and fpoiled. In the 
 eleventh century, we find them main- 
 taining the rank of a moft flouriming 
 and refpeclable maritime power. Their 
 harbour, the famous Porto Pifano, now 
 totally choaked up, and feldom vifited, 
 even by the prying eye of curiofity, con- 
 tained, at one period, 200 armed galleys. 
 Of thefe, forty were difpatched to the 
 affiftance of Amaury, king of Jerufa- 
 lem, and contributed to the defeat of the 
 Saracens, who had laid fiege to Alex- 
 andria. The Pifans likewife exerted 
 themfelves with fuccefs in the expulfion 
 D D 4 of
 
 408 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 of Roger, the ufurper of the Sicilian 
 crown, furnifhed powerful fuccours to 
 Frederic Barbarofia, in the courfe of his 
 operations againft the Milanefe, and, 
 when the fame prince embarked in the 
 crufades, they fent to his aid Lanfranco, 
 their archbifhop, with fifty galleys, in 
 which laft they imported the holy earth 
 of the campofanto. With the French, 
 too, they co-operated in thofey2z<rra/ ex- 
 peditions, which they well knew how 
 to render fubfervient to the aggrandife- 
 ment of their trade. Ten thoufand tur- 
 rets, equivalent to the banners of fo 
 many noble families, and 150,000 in- 
 habitants attefted the fplendour and prof- 
 perity of the city. That profperity was 
 lirft checked by the rival power of the 
 Genoefe, with whom the Pifans waged 
 a long and doubtful warfare. The fatal 
 difcomfiture off Meloria in 1284, was 
 attributed to the treachery of Count 
 \Jgolino, who bafely retired with his
 
 TO PISA. 409 
 
 divifion into port, and devolved the 
 unequal combat on his colleagues in 
 command, Oberto Morofmi, and An- 
 dreotto Saracino. Forty-nine galleys 
 and twelve thoufand men remained in 
 the hands of the Genoefe. To the crime 
 of deferting his country's fervice in the 
 hour of danger, Ugolino added that of 
 ufurped dominion, fupported by a feries 
 of cabals and perfidy, while the Flo- 
 rentines were powerful enough to fkreen 
 him from the gripe of juftice. But no 
 fooner could his enraged fellow citizens 
 feize upon him with impunity, than they 
 confined him and his two nephews in 
 a tower of the prifon, which ftill fub- 
 fifts, and in which they were left to 
 perifh in the agonies of hunger. Hit- 
 tory has recorded their miferable fate, 
 which Dante has inverted with claflical 
 horror. The mifdecds of Ugolino had, 
 doubtlefs, merited the laft punimment, 
 his innocent relatives were entitled 
 
 to
 
 410 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 to the pity and protection of the ftate. 
 The conquerors now feized upon and 
 demolifhcd the Porto Pifano, and with its 
 navigation and commerce, the glory of 
 the republic rapidly declined, till, in the 
 courfe of a fruitlefs, though not inglo- 
 rious, ftruggle againft the Florentines, 
 the independance of Pifa, and of her 
 territory, expired. Under the aufpices 
 of Lorenzo, the magnificent, her citi- 
 zens were allowed to breathe from their 
 misfortunes. Their low lying plains, 
 which were faft reverting to the ftate of 
 a barren and noifome marfh, attracted 
 the beneficent attentions of this patriotic 
 and enlightened prince. Not only did 
 he appoint an officer to fuperintend the 
 cleanfing of five and twenty deep canals, 
 but defrayed the expence of the Foffb di 
 Rippafratla, which receives the moun- 
 tain waters as they defcend round the 
 baths, and form an ample communi- 
 cation between the Arno and . Serchio. 
 8 It
 
 TO PISA, 411 
 
 It was referved to Louis XII. of France 
 to extinguim the feeble hopes which 
 the Pifans ftill entertained of regaining 
 their liberty. Many of them forfook 
 their native walls, pafled over into Sicily, 
 or migrated to Rome, Genoa, or Naples. 
 Grafs ftill grows on the filent ftreets, 
 and feventeen thoufand inhabitants, 
 moftly poor and degraded, prefent the 
 remnant of a fair and once fiourifhing 
 community. Few are the objects which 
 now folicit the attention of the ftranger. 
 The Duomo, or cathedral, founded 
 1063, and finifhed 1092, ftands upon 
 the fpot once occupied by Adrian's baths. 
 The famous Brufchetto was entrufted 
 with the defign, and appears, at firft 
 fight, to have happily blended the beau- 
 ties of Greek and Gothic architecture ; 
 yet a clofe infpection reveals the dif- 
 jcfta membra of more venerable and 
 claffic piles prefled into the fervrce of 
 the eleventh century, and treated with 
 
 little
 
 412 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 little refpect to proportion or graceful- 
 nefs of ftrudture. Like the adjoining 
 buildings, it is of white marble of Car- 
 rara. Its three brazen gates, chiefly de- 
 figned by John of Bologna, difplay the 
 hiftory of Jefus and the Virgin, with a 
 delicacy of execution that is truly v r on- 
 derful. The feparations of the compart- 
 ments are diftinguifhed by fantaftic fi- 
 gures of birds, fruits, lizards, &c. Was 
 it not Michel Angelo, who reckoned 
 thefe doors worthy of the entrance into 
 heaven ? The want of light within this 
 ftnking edifice, for its hundred windows 
 are narrow and painted, may be friendly 
 to emotions of reverence and fear, but 
 (hades the beauties of fome valuable 
 paintings by del Sarto, Lutti, the Zue- 
 cheri, &c. and of feventy-two ftately 
 pillars, fixty of which are f aid to be of 
 oriental granite, and twelve of various 
 marbles. The pillars amount in all to 
 two hundred and eight. Among the
 
 TO PISA. 413 
 
 fepulchral mormments of note, is that 
 of the Emperor Henry VII. who was 
 much attached to Pifa, and founded its 
 univerfity. To the outer walls is at- 
 tached an ancient farcophagus, repre- 
 fenting in has relief, Meleager's hunting, 
 and containing, according to report, the 
 remains of Countefs Beatrice, who died 
 1113, and with whofe daughter, Ma- 
 tilda, the race of Tufcan Counts ex- 
 pired. The expence of creeling the ca- 
 thedral, was moftly defrayed by the 
 fpoils taken from the Saracens at the 
 fiege of Palermo. The edifice was ori- 
 ginally dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; 
 but as me was pleafed to reveal to the 
 good St. Raniero, patron of Pifa, and a 
 capital performer of miracles, that he 
 fhould flcep in her bofom, /. e. be buried 
 in her favourite church, his name has 
 gradually fupplanted that of our lady. 
 Yet, to the lover of truth and fcience, 
 a greater than St Raniero is here. From 
 
 the
 
 414 PROM MARSEILLES 
 
 the vibrations of a lamp fufpendcd in 
 the dome, Galileo, when yet young, 
 took the hint of meafuring time by a 
 pendulum, as from the top of the hanging 
 tower, he commenced thofe experiments 
 which gave a fatal blow to the long con- 
 fecrated jargon of the fchools. The fall 
 of an apple fuggefled to Newton thofe 
 laws by which countlefs worlds are re- 
 gulated In their motions through the im- 
 menfity of fpace and time. And thus 
 are we induced to hope, that, in every 
 country and in every age, circumftances 
 apparently trivial, and which pafs un- 
 noticed by the bulk of mankind, will 
 operate inftantaneoufly on the fprings 
 of genius, and give birth to fpeculations 
 the moft comprehenfive, interefting, 
 and fublime. 
 
 Hard by the Duomo ftands a detached 
 pillar of white marble, fupporting an 
 urn, or vafe, bearing a reprefentatlon of 
 Silenus, playing on the double flute. 
 
 Anti-
 
 TO BIS A. 415 
 
 Antiquarians have fuppofed that the vef- 
 fel inclofed the afhes of fome departed 
 Pagan, though the Pifans have infcribed 
 upon the capital of the pillar Ztyefto e 
 II talento che Cefare Imperatore dledc a 
 Pifa, col quale mifurava lo cenfo cbe a lui 
 era dato. But were not fuch contribu- 
 tions eftimated by weight and number, 
 and not by meafure ? 
 
 The Baptiftery, San Giovanni del Eat- 
 tcfimO) is a beautiful rotunda, meafuring 
 I- 10 yards in circumference, and fur- 
 mounted by a noble dome.. Its internal 
 decorations are a range of pillars of Sar- 
 dinian granite, and an octagonal font of 
 variegated marble. Several pillars of 
 oriental granite, or marble, refting upon 
 lions, fupport the pulpit. None of the 
 paintings are much prized, except that 
 cf Zebedee's children, by del Sarto. 
 This magnificent ftrudure was begun 
 under the fuperintendance of Clonctto 
 ij and Arrlgo Cancellleri, and was 
 
 finilhed
 
 416 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 fmifhed in the courfe of the following 
 year, each family contributing a florin* 
 The number of families, at that time 
 refident in Pifa, amounted to 34,000. 
 
 Upon the fame confecrated area (lands 
 the Campanile, Torre Pendente^ or famous 
 leaning tower, a beautiful marble cylin- 
 der, with its eight (lories, diftinguifhed 
 by as many colonades. The height 
 from the ground is 188 feet, and the 
 projection of the top over thebafe about 
 14 feet. An excellent flair of 195 (leps 
 conducts to the platform upon the top, 
 which is furrounded by an iron baluf- 
 trade, and commands a mod enchanting 
 landfcape. * The name Campanile^ ob- 
 vioufly points out the defign of the build- 
 ing namely, a receptacle for the bells 
 of the church, which, in early times, 
 ufed to be fufpended in a tower detached 
 from the main building. The Pifans 
 dill difpute whether it owes its inclined 
 pofition to art or accident. The torre 
 
 Gar-
 
 TO PISA. 417 
 
 Garifauda of Bologna received its pen- 
 dency from the bad tafte of the times ; 
 and it is not more aftoniming that Wil- 
 liam of Nuremberg, the planner of the 
 campanile, fhould adopt a miferable con- 
 ceit in a piece of beautiful architecture, 
 than that Milton, the grave and fublime 
 Milton, fhould do fo in a folemn poem. 
 Yet a common mafon would feel little 
 hefitation in giving it as his opinion, 
 that this fair fabric was originally erect, 
 and an eye accuftomed to obferve may 
 remark a tendency in all the towers of 
 Pifa, efpecially in that of the obfervatory, 
 to deviate from the perpendicular. This 
 fmgular circumftance is afcribed to the 
 infecurity of the foil, which is faid to 
 be hollow at a little depth, and incident 
 to flight earthquakes. 
 
 The Campo Santo begun in 1200, was 
 not completely finifhed till 1464. It, 
 too, is a Gothic building of white mar- 
 ble, 520 palms long, and 160 broad, 
 E E cor-
 
 . FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 correfponding, as is pretended, to the 
 dimenfions of Noah's ark. The area, 
 filled with earth brought from the holy 
 land, and containing the remains of 
 the noble families of Pifa, under a 
 pavement of party-coloured marble, is 
 inclofed by a cloifter, along which, and 
 under the windows, are ranged ancient 
 marble farcophagi -and tomb ftones. The 
 other walls are curiouily painted in 
 frefco by Giotto, Mecbarino, Eiiffalmachi^ 
 Uenozzo, Sorio, Orgagna, &c. who may 
 be ranked among the revivers of their 
 art. Of thefe figures, expreflion of 
 countenance conftitutes the principal 
 merit, for the colouring, though in 
 many inftances renewed, has fadly faded, 
 and we in vain look for eafe or graceful- 
 nefs of defign. The multiplicity and 
 oddity of the fubj edits favour more of 
 burlefque than of that folemnity which 
 we naturally attach to the abodes of the 
 departed ; for befides the miracles of 
 
 St.
 
 TO PISA. 419 
 
 St. Ranieri, the fufferings of Job, the laft 
 judgment, hell torments, &c. &c. &c. 
 Death is here reprefented as a hag, borne 
 on black wings, and brandishing a fcythe 
 before a mixed multitude of princes, 
 popes, and beggars, while, there, the 
 angels are bufily employed in drawing 
 the fouls of the bleffed out of their mouths. 
 In another compartment, an angel and 
 a devil are fcrambling for a monk, who 
 has the misfortune to be torn to pieces 
 in the conflict. La Vergognofa has her 
 name from peeping through her fingers 
 at Noah in his cups ! The monuments 
 in the Campo Santo are particularly de- 
 fcribed by Norris, in his Cenotaphla Pi- 
 fai&) a learned work. But let me not 
 fupprefs the fimple infcription to the 
 memory of Count Algarotti : 
 
 Algorotto Ovidn amulo t 
 
 Newtoni difcipulo^ 
 
 Fredericus Magnus. 
 
 E 2
 
 420 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 Algarottus non omnis. 
 A. D. 1764. 
 
 Frederick had penned Hie jacet Ovidii 
 amuluS) et Newtoni dlfcipulus, and 
 charged the chevalier Guazze/i with the 
 execution of the monument. This gen- 
 tleman took the liberty of altering the 
 original as above : but his Pruflian Ma- 
 jefty never complained that he had ex- 
 ceeded his inftrudions. 
 
 The conventual church of the knights 
 of Sf Stephen is diftinguifhed by fome 
 of its paintings, by its high altar of por- 
 phyry, incrufted with calcedony, but 
 more by ftandards, horfe tails, and other 
 trophies of the prowefs of the Knights 
 againft the Infidels. The palace of the 
 order, fituated in the fame fquare (Pi- 
 azza de Cavallkrl)^ may be remarked 
 by the bufts of the fix grand mafters, 
 but has little the appearance of a palace. 
 The order of St. Stephen was inftituted 
 
 by
 
 TO PISA. 421 
 
 by Cofmo I. 1561 ; and the knights were 
 not admitted to all the privileges of their 
 ftation, till they had ferved three years 
 on board of galleys deftined to chaftife 
 the Barbary corfairs. Even at this day, 
 fuch of them as belong to the clafs della 
 giuftizla^ muft prove the fame degrees of 
 nobility as Knights of Malta, and fwear 
 allegiance to the Grand Mafter of the 
 order. If unmarried, they are gratu- 
 itoufly lodged and boarded in the palace, 
 and may enjoy the free difpofal of their 
 fortune, with the exception <3f a fourth 
 part, which, on their demife, devolves 
 to the fociety. The cavalieri della gra- 
 tia and thofe of commanderies are ex- 
 empted from vows, the former being 
 honoured with the title on account of 
 eminent talents, and the latter, in virtue 
 of founding a commandery. In other 
 refpe&s, fmce France accommodated the 
 differences between Tufcany and the 
 Barbary States, a cavaliere dl San Ste- 
 phana
 
 422 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 phano at Pifa is very like a knight any 
 where elfe, except that he wears a blue 
 uniform, and appears to be abundantly 
 confcious of his dignity. 
 
 The church of San Matteo is vifited 
 on account of a few good paintings by 
 the two Melani) brothers, and natives 
 of Pifa, and for that reprefenting Chrift 
 expelling the venders of wares from the 
 temple, by Pie fro di Cortona. Over the 
 facrifty, in the church of St. Francis, 
 are reprefented the Virgin and Child by 
 Cimabue. La Splna is a fmall, but ele- 
 gant Gothic church, built about 1230, 
 incrufted with marble, and decorated 
 with ftatues. I have not learned that 
 any of the other religious buildings 
 merit particular notice. The archbilhop 
 has a large revenue, and enjoys fome 
 ipecial privileges, while the canons of 
 the cathedral are all noble, and entitled 
 to wear the drefs of a cardinal. 
 
 The.
 
 TO PISA. 423 
 
 The Arno, a ftream more muddy than 
 copious, divides the town into two un- 
 equal parts, termed il di qua, and /'/ di 
 la d? Arno. The quays afford a pleafant 
 and warm walk in winter. That be- 
 tween the marble bridge and the Ponte 
 a Mare is the moft genteel and gay quar- 
 ter of this decayed city, while that 
 which extends from the fort to the mar- 
 ble bridge, is faid to bear a ftriking re- 
 femblance to the rue de la Megiflerie at 
 Paris. An aqueduct of 5000 arches, 
 the work of Cofmo I. and Ferdinand I. 
 conveys a plentiful fupply of waters from. 
 Acclano. The flag flones, with which 
 the ftreets are paved, are more conveni- 
 ent for bipeds than quadrupeds; but every- 
 thing confidered, the town is no un 
 comfortable place of refidence for in- 
 valids, or thofe who are tired of the 
 world. 
 
 The Grand Duke ufually pafles part 
 of the winter here, in a palace remark- 
 able
 
 424 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 able for its plainnefs, but not, on that 
 account, the lefs fuited to his unafluming 
 deportment, and philofophic patriotifin. 
 Leopold has his foibles, but foibles 
 which difappear in the magnitude of 
 his virtues for he has reduced a fu- 
 perfluous military eftablifhment, abo- 
 lifhed the inquifition, the abufe of afy- 
 lums, and capital punishments, has in- 
 troduced a wholefome reform into the 
 adminiftration of juftice, betrays a laud- 
 able anxiety to promote commerce and 
 the arts, and feeks to derive his happi- 
 nefs from that of his fubjeds. Why do 
 not fuch princes live for ^ever ? And 
 why {hould Macedonia s madman and the 
 Swede attract the notice of remote pof- 
 terity, when he who has laboured for 
 the peace and profpcrity of his people, 
 fhall pafs away and be forgotten, like a 
 tale that has been told ? 
 
 The private palaces, which, in France, 
 would be termed hgtels, are thofe of 
 
 the
 
 TO PISA. 425 
 
 the Albiz*zi) Lanfranchi and Lanfran- 
 duccL 
 
 The marble bridge is a plain, but ele- 
 gant ftructure, and ufed to be the fcene 
 of the Giuoco del Ponte, a mock fight, per- 
 formed every third year, by thofe of 
 the oppofite banks of the river. But, 
 as this fmgular exhibition was attended 
 with much idlenefs, ferocity, and even, 
 in fome inftances, the lofs of lives, it 
 has of late been fuppreffed. 
 
 The univerfity library contains near 
 40,000 volumes. The profeflbrs, forty- 
 two in number, are appointed by the 
 Grand Duke, enjoy a yearly falary, 
 which is fixed according to feniority, 
 the loweft being equivalent to 35!. fter- 
 ling, and the higheft to nyl. They 
 give fhort public prelections, in Latin 
 or Italian, and read a gratuitous courfe 
 of lectures in their own houfes. Their 
 fuperior, the prior of St. Stephens, is en- 
 titled Proweditore generate dello Studio. 
 F F The
 
 426 FROM MARSEILLES 
 
 *The number of ftudents may be reck- 
 oned from 500 to 700. The botanic 
 garden difplays an excellent aflbrtment 
 of European plants, arranged according 
 to the Linnean claflification, but is rather 
 deficient in exotic fpecies. The infcrip- 
 tion over the door Hie Argus ^ fed non 
 Briareus efto, fpeaks to the feelings of 
 botanifts. Cofmo I. by his particular 
 attentions, caufed it to be diftinguifhed 
 as a receptacle of vegetable rarities at a 
 period when botany was little cultivated 
 in Europe. America and the Levant 
 contributed to augment his collection, 
 while Ikilled herbalifts were commif- 
 fioned to ranfack Italy and Sicily, and 
 he enjoyed the elegant felicity of fup- 
 plying the gardens of princes with the 
 decorations of Flora. Ghini^ of Imola, 
 the firft profeflbr in botany at Pifa, was 
 fucceeded by the celebrated Casfalpinus. 
 Among 'thofe who have contributed to 
 the reputation of this feminary, are 
 
 reckoned
 
 TO PISA.. 427 
 
 reckoned Galileo , Caftelli, Borelli, Guic- 
 ciardini, Vefaliiu, Bellini^ Norris, and 
 Mercuriale. The prefent teachers live 
 in a ftate of enviable harmony, and, 
 as Algarotti has juftly remarked, while 
 they exercife polite attentions to citizens 
 and ftrangers, avoid, on the one hand, 
 the confequeniial airs of the Doctors of 
 Bologna, and, on the other, the harfher 
 pedantry of the profeflbrs of Padua. 
 
 The public hofpital, for airinefs and 
 good management would not difgrace 
 London or Edinburgh. Often is it vifited 
 by the Grand Duke, who is not lefs 
 grand for being ftyled over the gate of 
 this pious edifice, Father of the Poor. 
 Alas ! how few fovereigns can truly 
 claim fuch an honourable title ! 
 
 Thus far had I proceeded in my re- 
 marks, when circumftances of peculiar 
 urgency recalled me to my native coun- 
 try. On reviewing thefe pages and 
 
 notes
 
 428 FROM MARSEILLES, &C. 
 
 notes of journeys performed in various 
 diftri&s of our favoured ifland, I per- 
 ceive many points of curious comparifon ; 
 but to ft ate them with accuracy, can- 
 dour, and effecl, would require frequent 
 opportunities of foreign travel, and an 
 extended intercourfe with people of all 
 ranks at home and abroad. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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 Printers-Street.
 
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