i /?-i^ / /-ife^ L« lllM(^Iill^ljI^liI^i in 2007 with funding fro IVIicrosoft Corporation //r//n/ 'i \ CAPTAIN COOK: vl»«-iT'1. HIS VOYAGES, AND THE PLACES HE VISITED. AMES COOK, the celebrated navi- gator, was born at Marton, in the North Riding of Yorkshire, on the 27th of October, 1728. His parents were poor and honest. His father was a farm-baiHff to a Mr. Skottow, and his mother was the daughter of a farm-labourer. When the boy was eight years old, his fattier was pro- ' moted to be Mr. Skottow's lund at a place called Airy Holme, near Great Ayton ; and Mr. Skottow, finding James to be an intelligent lad, put him to school, at his own expense, with a schoolmaster at Great Ayton, where he learned to write and to cipher. Though James's father was willing that his son should reap all the advantage possible from his schoohng, he could not afford, with the claims of eight other children upon liim, to support the boy after he could earn a living for himself. Before VOL. I. N.S. — NO. VI. 322 CAPTAIN COOK. lPcopIc's Magazine, June 1, 1868. James was thirteen years old, he was taken from Bchool and bound apprentice to Mr. Sanderson, a haberdasher at Staiths, about ten miles north of Wliitby. His occupation was thoroughly uncon- genial to him. Ho had a natural liking for a sailor's life, and his desire to indulge this liking grew into a longing that could not fail to be now and again a hindrance to the haberdashery busi- ness, and to the displeasure of his master. A quarrel ensued, the result of which was that Mr. Sanderson gave up the indentures to his appren- tice, who forthwith bound himself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, owners of several vessels engaged in the coal trade. While Cook was serving in this capacity in the spring of 1755, war broke out between England and France, and Cook determined to enter the royal navy. His vessel was lying in the Thames, so he betook himself to a rendezvous in Wapping, and entered on board the Eagle man-of-war, com- manded by Captain Hamer, and mounting sixty guns. For six months he served as an able seaman, when Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Palliser super- seded Captain Hamer in command of the Eagle. Captain Palliser quickly singled out James Cook from the rest, as an unusually intelligent and excel- lent seaman ; all the officers spoke in the highest terms of him, and the captain promised him all the encoui-agement in his power. In due course a master's warrant was obtained for him, and in the summer of 1759 Cook was ap- pointed to the Mercury frigate, then under orders to sail for the North American station. Arrived on the station, whither Captain Palliser "had preceded him, James Cook at once distin- guished himself by a service which required both, skill and hardihood, and which was also of the very highest importance. Sir Charles Saunders, the naval commander-in-chief, co-operating vnth General Wolfe in his proposed attack on Quebec, wished to place some of his largest ships in such a position that they might effectually engage the enemy's batteries and also cover the army when it should be landed for the assault on the French camp at Montmorency and Beauport. Before he could do this he must have the soundings of the river St. Lawrence between the island of Orleans and the shore opposite to the French camp. Who was the fittest man to perform this duty ? Cap- tain Palliser told the admiral tliat on board the Mercury was a young man who was equal to the occasion, and that man was James Cook, the master. Cook performed this difficult and dangerous ser- vice to the complete satisfaction of the admiral, though not without considerable risk to himself. On one occasion the Indians employed by the French to cut him off were so close upon him that he had only time to run his boat — a barge belong- ing to one of the men-of-war — into the sedge on the Isle of Orleans, and as he jumped out at the bow of the boat the Indians stepped in over the stem. After the capture of Quebec, Lord Colvill ap- pointed Cook to be master of the Northuniberlomd, his lordship's flag-ship, and in this vessel Cook availed himself freely of much leisure time to study mathematics, astronomy, and the principles of drawing. The Northumberland assisted at the recapture of Newfoundland from the French in 1762, and Cook was employed, with great gain of reputation, in surveying the heights and harbours along the coast. Towards the end of the same year he returned to England, and married, at Barking, in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, to whom he ever remained sincerely and devotedly at- tached. Early in 1763, after peace had been arranged with France and Spain, Captain Graves, who, as former Governor of Newfoundland, had noticed the excellent ability and intelligence of Mr. Cook, was again sent out as governor ; and wishing to obtain information for the construction of better charts than then existed of the North American coast line, obtained the appointment of Cook as marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador. This appointment Cook held under Captain Graves and under his successor. Cook's old friend. Sir Hugh Palliser, till 1767, when he returned bo England, and remained unemployed for a year, en- joying the rest he had so well earned by many years of labour. The occasion which next called him into notice was an unusual one. Astronomers calculated that in 1769 there would be a transit of Venus over ttie sun's disc, and as it was of great importance to the science of astronomy that accurate observation should be made of the phenomenon, the Royal Society petitioned the King, in February 1768, that he would be pleased to order a vessel to be fitted out for the purpose of conveying suitable persons to the Marquesas, or Friendly Islands, at which places it was reckoned the transit could be best observed, and there to make such observations as might be deemed necessary. The petition was favourably answered ; a barque was taken up for the purposes of the expedition, and Alexander Dalrymple, Esq., a member of the Royal Society, was selected by his brethren to take charge. Mr. Dalrymple made it a condition of his accepting the command, that he should be granted a brevet com- mission as captain in the royal navy, a condition with which Sir Edward Hawke, who then presided at the Admiralty, declared that he would rather cut off his right hand than comply ; urging that it reople'B Magazine. June ), 19i58.] CAPTAIN COOK. 323 ■was a monstrous thing to require seamen, bom and bred, officers as well as sailors, to yield obedi- ence to a civilian who knew no more of seaman- ship or of naval discipline than they did of church architecture. Mr. Dalrymple being as firm as Sir Edward Hawke, Mr. Stephens, the secretary of the Admiralty, suggested that some naval ofiicer might be found who could carry out the object of the expedition as well as Mr. Dalrymple. Mr. Cook was already known as an able surveyor, and no mean astronomer, and Mr. Stephens mentioned his name to the board. Sir Hugh Palhser readily and warmly recommended him as being thoroughly qualified for the post, and in consequence of this recommendation James Cook, the farm-labourer's son, was first promoted to be a lieutenant in the royal navy, and was then appointed to command the expedition to the South Sea. The time occu- pied in the voyage was from July 30, 1768, to June 12, 1771. On the 29th of August, 1771, Cook was pro- moted to be a commander, and on the 22nd of June, 1772, sailed again, to determine whether or not there was a great continent in the high southern latitudes, as had been reported, and also denied. He returned from this voyage on the 30th of July, 1775, and on the 9th of August was made post-captain, and a captain of Greenwich Hospital. On the 12th of July, 1776, he quitted England for the last time, in his ship Resolution, accom- panied by the Discovenj, under Captain Gierke, bound on the quest which has occupied so many hardy seamen, from Erobisher to McClintock — the discoveiy of a north-west passage. The particu- lars of this voyage, and of the sad event which dimmed the lustre of it, are given below. Let us now say a few words as to Captain Cook's cha- ^poter and personal appearance. Captain King, who sailed with him as second lieutenant, and who succeeded him in command of the Resolution when he died, thus speaks of his former commander : — ' The constitution of his body was robust, in- ured to labour, and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomatii bore, without difiiculty, the. coarsest and most ungrateful food. Great was the indifierence with which he sub- mitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious. His judgment, in what- ever related to the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs were bold and manly ; and both in the conception and in the mode of execution bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admii-able presence of mind in the moment of danger. His temper might perhaps have been justly blamed, as subject to hastiness and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most benevolent and humane.' Another quality of Cook's mind, and one that helped him most effectually, by seconding the plans his genius had formed, was that of perseve- rance, unflagging, unabated, even in the presence of difficulties the most formidable and discourag- ing. He had contrived, in spite of defective ori- ginal education, to acquire a vast amount of varied and sterhng knowledge. The son of the farm- labourer became, by dint of unwearied effort and ceaseless application, not only a thorough seaman in every sense of the word, but a worthy com- mander of men, the companion of the learned, a scientific astronomer, an elegant writer. Cook was about six feet in height, good-looking, and of simple address. His face was full of ex- pression, his eyes were small, of a brown colour, and quick and piercing. His hair was of a dark brown, and there was a presence about him which marked him for one of Nature's most favoured sons. He was a faithful and affectionate husband and father, and the posthumous reward which was given to him by the Government was of such a kind as a loving man, solicitous for those depen- dent upon him, would have desired. A pension of 2001. a-year was settled on his widow, and an an- nuity of 25L upon each of his three surviving sons ; and an arrangement was made for the sale of Cook's published charts, by which the great navi- gator's family were placed in a position of com- fort, if not of affluence. Two* of his sons were also received into the naval service. Of the three great voyages of discoveiy in which Captain Cook had the chief command, the first was undertaken by the express desire of the King (George III.), and at the instance of the Royal Society, under the circumstances already men- tioned. Cook's companions in this voyage were Mr. Banks (afterwards Sir Joseph Banks), who went at his own cost, and also suppHed many valuable contributions to the instruments and knowledge of the explorers ; Dr. Solander, the eminent natu- ralist ; Mr. Charles Green (from the Greenwich Observatory) ; Mr. Monkhouse, surgeon of the ship, and several other persons of less note. On the 30th of July, 1768, the Endeavour, a vessel of 370 tons, left the Thames. She touched at Ma^ deira and Rio, and then made no further halts till she arrived off Strait le Maire, between the soxth- eastem point of Terra del Fuego and Staten Island. The question with Captain Cook now, was whether to make the passage round the Horn, or, as sea- men in those days preferred, to ' plod his weary way ' through the tiresome navigation of the Straits of Magelhaens. Cook doubted perhaps the truth of the stories he had heard of the perennial 824 CAPTAIN COOK. [People** MosKcIne, June 1, 1968. bad weather said to prevail about Capo Horn, and he resolved to try. He was the first to maintain that the passage by the Horn, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, is not only the safest but the most economical in point of time, and to lay down the rule for navigation in these parts, which has been poted upon by seamen ever since. He passed round the Horn, experiencing only the mildest weather, and sailed at once into the Pacific, shaping a north- west course across it. After a fair-weather voyage he came upon an Tiiiknown island, which he called Lagoon Island, and afterwards discovered others, which he called Thumb-Cap, Bow Island, the Groups, Bird Island, and Chain Island, besides some others of what are now known as the Society Islands ; but the place to which he considered himself bound was Ota- heite, the principal island of this group, for at this place Captain Wallis, who returned from a voyage of discovery while Cook was preparing for 86*, had recommended that the transit of Venus should be observed. On the 11th of April, 1769, the Endeavour came in sight of this island, and on the 13th cast anchor in a bay called Port Royal Bay by Captain Wallis, but by the natives, Matavia. Before landing, or allowing any of his men to do 80, Lieutenant Cook drew up a set of rules, which he ordered to be observed by the men during their 8tay in the island. These rules inculcated the most humane principles for the guidance of the men in their conduct towards the natives ; pre- scribed the way in which trade with them should be conducted ; and warned the men against any infringement of the known rules of naval disci- pline. AU being done that was requisite for the maintenance of peace on the part of the English, Lieutenant Cook proceeded to land, in order to find a spot suitable for making astronomical obser- vations. The natives, who up to this time had been somewhat shy, crowded near him when, hav- ing selected a spot, he proceeded to erect a tempo- rary fort to defend the party on shore. So far as Cook himself was concerned, there was nothing but goodwill towards him on the part of the na- tives ; a feeling which was preserved in spite of some acts of severity he was compelled to commit in order to check the barbarians' habit of thieving, and stiU more in spite of not a few unwarrantable, not to say brutal actions done by the English to- wards the natives. Cook was firm in repressing such actions on his followers' part, as ho was also firm in insisting on redress for theft committed by the natives. Any of his seamen caught flagrante delicto, or convicted on reliable evidence of in- juries done to the people, were as certain of punish- ment as they were of being supported against any imposition attempted by the natives; and as a matter of fact he several times flogged men of his crew in the presence of the people, for offences done against them. On the other hand, he on one occasion found it necessary to seize all the canoes he could lay his hands on, and keep them until certain things which had been stolen were given up. From the fort which had been erected the transit of Venus across the sun's disc was distinctly seen in all its stages ; and several parties of observers were also sent to adjacent parts jn order to notice the phenomenon. Before quitting the island Lieutenant Cook made a complete coast survey of it, while Mr. Banks and the other scientific gentlemen took occasion to ex- amine minutely the natural history specimens the place afforded. Garden seeds, pigs, and sheep were also left, in hope that they might extend and multiply in the island, which as yet had nothing of the kind ; horses and oxen were also unknown there. From Otaheite the Endeavour went on a southerly course, inclining westward, with the intention of seeking the great continent which some folks de- clared to exist in the high southern latitudes. Going on this course for about three weeks, during which time he visited several other of the Society Islands, Lieutenant Cook sighted the high land of what he supposed might be the great southern continent. It proved to be high land in New Zealand, a coun- trj^ on which as yet no European had landed. Finding nothing that he wanted in the baj- where he first put in, and unable to come to any under- standing with the people. Lieutenant Cook left the place, which he called Poverty Bay, and sought a convenient harbour elsewhere. He visited Hawke's Bay (so called by him after the first lord of the Admiralty) and the Bay of Islands, stopping some time in the latter place, which seemed to him a most admirable place for a colony. It was at these places he succeeded in opening a sort of trade with the New Zealandcrs, and in learning most of the information he acquired during this voyage, about the people and the products of the country ; but the hostile disposition of the natives was such as to preclude the obtaining of much information. Cook found from the people, however, that they had some tradition of a great country, which they called UHmaroa, lying towards the north-east, and from which they seemed to think the strangers must have come. Cook continued his voyage, surveying as closely as possible the coast line of the new land, and landing on all convenient occasions, for the purpose of making astronomical observations, in company with Mr. Banks and the others. He skirted the northern island, passing round the top of it by Capo Maria Van DiemCn, as Tasman had called the north- westernmost headland, and sailing down the People's Magazine, June 1, 1868.] CAPTAIN COOK. 325 west coast, came to an anchor in Queen Charlotte's Sound, which he ever afterwards made his chief resting-place in New Zealand. Here he landed animals and sowed seeds, and tried to make friends with the natives, whom he so won over as to in- duce them to entertain a real friendship for him. Cook had much difficulty on all occasions in keeping his own people from doing violence, whereby they threw back, and sometimes quite frustrated, his efforts to civilise and improve. The Englishmen thought no more of killing an Indian than of shoot- ing a hare ; and one of them, when detected and punished for rifling an Indian plantation, boldly asserted there was no harm in taking a savage's property. Cook, however, wishing to impress the natives with a sense of his justice, not only punished his men, as has been said, when proved to have wronged the Indians, but always paid in nails, hatchets, cloth, or other things, for whatever he took away from the land for the use of the vessels. Cook now established for the first time that New Zealand consisted of two islands, of which he ascertained also the extent. After some time spent in Queen Charlotte's Sound, the Endeavour was turned southward from Cape Turnagain, and kept along the east coast of Poenammoo (the south- em island), weathered Cape South, which is the southernmost point of Stewart's Island, and re- turned coastwise to the western entrance of Cook's Strait, that divides the northern island from the southern. On the 31st of March, the Endeavour left Cape Farewell, and standing west, came on the 19th of April in sight of a place which, by reason of the many specimens of plants obtained there, the lieutenant called Botany Bay. Here the natives were at first hostile, but seeing the effect of the firearms they became shy, and it was with much difficulty Cook was able to win them to any confi- dence. Tupia, who was able to converse in Ota- heite language with the natives of New Zealand, was not able to understand, or to be understood, by the people here. They seemed to be an in- tractable race, very barbarous and simple. Cook surveyed the eastern coast of Australia between the thirteenth and fifteenth desrrees of south latitude, and first established the fact that New Guinea and New Holland were distinct. At Batavia, where the repairs of the ship detained the explorers for some weeks, sickness, for which the hardships of the voyage and the want of suit- able provisions had prepared the frames of the seamen, committed sad havoc among the crew. Tupia and his son died, as did also Mr. Monk- house, the surgeon. Mr. Banks's life was despaired of, and the'-e was but one man in the whole of the Endeavour^s crew who was not down with the fever. Even after thev loft Batavin the illness continued among the crew. Before they had gone many miles, Mr. Sporing, assistant to Mr. Banks, Mr. Parkinson, the natural history painter, Mr. Green, the astronomer, the boatswain, carpenter, cook, and others, making in all twenty-three, be- sides seven who died at Batavia, were carried off ; and when the ship put into the Cape of Good Hope, her crew were a poor weakly set, in sore need of rest and wholesome diet. At the Cape, Cook remained till the 14th of April, recruiting the sick and refitting the ship. On the 1st of May he arrived at St. Helena, shortly after leaving which place Mr. Hicks, bis first lieu- tenant, died, and Charles Clarke, who was subse- quently allied with Cook in the command of the third exploring expedition, was promoted to fill the vacancy. On the 18th of June, the Lizard was sighted, and on the 12th, Lieutenant Cook landed at Dover, and proceeded to London to re- port himself. The professional reward which Cook received, on the 29th of August, 1771, for his services, was a commander's commission, and the appointment to command an expedition which was to determine whether there was a continent in high southern latitudes. For such a voyage the old Eiideavour was not suited. He sailed in a new vessel, called the Re- solution, accompanied by the Adventure, to which Captain Tobias Fumeaux was appointed. After a prosperous voyage they arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, whence they started in the direction of Cape Circumcision, and in search of the land said to have been seen by the French navigator, Bouvet, a few years before. In latitude 55° 8' south, and longitude 24° 3' east, they were stopped in their progress southward by a set field of ice, which seemed firm and unyield- ing, and might have been there for centuries. Thirty leagues up and thirty leagues down the great icy barrier did the ships sail, but no opening was discovered ; so, on the 17th of January, 1773, being in south latitude 67° 15', and despairing of finding their quest, the voyagers bore away to the eastward in search of the land reported to have been seen by Bouvet. Captain Cook and a few more were the minority who thought there was no land in these parts. Captain Fumeaux thought there was, and appealed to the proofs afforded by birds and weeds that were seen, in order to bear him out. On the other hand Cook felt certain, from the way in which the swell of the sea set, that there was not any large tract of land near ; and he rejected the signs of birds and weeds as non-conclusive of the proximity of a continent or island, though he admitted that far to the southward, too far to be accessible, there mig-ht he land. He deferred, however, to the 326 CAPTAIN COOK. [People's Mizazine. June 1, IMS. opinion of Lis companions, and continued the search eastward, till on the 8th of February the ships were parted by a storm. Not meeting the Adventure again when the storm was over, Captain Cook determined, as winter was coming on, to give up the search for the land for this reason, and to stand to the northward. This he accordingly did, and on the 25th of March, after having been one hundred and seventeen days at sea, cast anchor in Dusky Bay, New Zealand. Immediately negotiations were opened with the natives for the supply of wood and vegetables ; and the captain, whose incessant care for the health of his men had been abundantly rewarded, took measures for still more effectually keeping away scurvy and such like diseases. For the good of the natives he loft some geese and sowed some garden seeds, trying to make the people under- stand the use and importance of them. After resting his men, watering the ship, and making an accurate survey of the coast. Cook sailed on to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where to his great joy he found the Adventure, from which he had been separated fourteen weeks. Some time was spent in examining the country, and trying to improve the condition of the natives. Sheep and hogs were given to them, and garden seeds were sown, some of the natives engaging to preserve them and look after them when they should have grown up. Leaving this place, the Besolufion and Adventure revisited Otaheite, and on their return route to Queen Charlotte's Sound discovered, on the 23rd of September, Harvey's Island. From Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cook sailed on the 26th of No- vember on another search after the great southern continent. In latitude 71° 10' south, longitude 106° 54' west, he got encumbered in the ice ; and finding no way on, but having, as he deemed, every reason to think that the ice extended to the pole, gave up the search, went about and stood for the northward, his intention being to winter in the tropics and to go on exploring the Pacific in the following season. In pursuance of this plan Cook sailed out of the inhospitable southern re- gions, and on the 11th of March sighted Easter Island, whence he visited the Marquesas, St. George's Island, and another island, which, in honour of his friend and patron, he called Pal- liser's Island. On the 22nd of April he again put into the harbour of Matavi, at Otaheite, where he was received with the most unbounded enthusiasm. A naval review, in which a hundred and sixty double war canoes, besides many others laden with spectators, the total number of men afloat being about seven thousand, was held in his honour. Other signs of the goodwill of the king were not wanting, though one proof of his subjects' en- thusiasm took the form of attachment to the coods. rather than to the persons of the strangers, and Cook had to teach in a forcible manner the as yet unknown difference between meum and tuum. After visiting the other islands he sailed west- ward, discovered Home Island, Palmerston Island, and Savage Island, the last being so named because of the implacable hostility of the natives, who re- sisted fiercely all attempts of the strangers to land. Still on the westerly route, he came to Anamocka, or Rotterdam, discovered by Tasman in his voyage ; and on the 16th of June saw some land which he took for Quiros's Tierra Australis, but it turned out to be the island of Malicollo. Shepherd's Islands and the New Hebrides were then visited, the latter having been seen by Qniros in 1606, and by Bourgainville in 1768. New Cale- donia and the Isle of Pines next came under notice, and on the route thence to Queen Char- lotte's Sound, Norfolk Island was first discovered, a place uninhabited, but having apparently all the attributes of an earthly paradise. Two attempts were subsequently made to find the great southern continent, but without success, and Cook was fully persuaded that he had satis- factorily proved beyond all question that there was no such thing attainable, if it existed at all, as a continent in the liigh southern latitudes. On the 22nd of March, 1775, he returned to Table Bay, having accomplished twenty thousand league-s of sea since he last cast anchor there. He stayed only a short while at the Cape, and then sailed for England, arriving at Portsmouth on the 30th of July. The third and last voyage of Captain Cook was undertaken with the view of discovering a north- west passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The Hesolutionvfhs still Cook's vessel, but the Discovery, under the command of Captain Clarke, an acting lieutenant on Cook's first voyage, was substituted for the Adventure. They left Plymouth on the 8th of July, 1776, and sailed southward till they arrived at New Zealand. Traversing the seas of this quarter, he discovered the island of Mangeea, and finally ar- rived at the Friendly Islands. In and about these islands Cook remained for three months, doing liis best to promote a good understanding with the people, and to introduce among them the benefits of a higher civilisation. He then visited Otaheite and other islands of that group, and started on his way to the north. It was on the 19th of January, 1798, as he was crossing the waters of the North Pacific, that Cook discovered several islands, of which the first he understood to be called Atooi by the natives. He visited one or two of them, and called the group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the first lord of the Admiralty ; but he stayed only a short time. reople*9 Magazine. June 1, 19C8.] CAPTAIN COOK. 327 and went forward, intending to return to what lie rightly considered ' a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.' Concerning the main object of the voyage, the discovery of a north-west passage, it will be enough to say here that it was a failure. There is no knowing what Cook might have done liad his life been spared to make a second attempt, but it may be said, without disrespect to the memory or the character of Captain Cook, that he was not the man for arctic work. His forte lay in navigating in more genial climates ; not that he lacked courage to venture wherever duty might call him, but his genius as a navigator seemed to expand and his ability as a civiliser to increase more in the warm than in the frigid zone. After spending some weeks in the neighbourhood of Nootka Sound, or as it is also called. King George's Sound, and pene- trating Behring's Straits to latitude 65° 46' N., and 191° 45' W. longitude. Cook considered him- self to be so fast bound by the ice, that all further operations must bo deferred till the following season. He turned to the eastward, and succeeded in getting 5° farther to the northward, but then set fields of ice prevented his going any farther, and he put about for the Sandwich I.slands, in- tending to go to Kamtschatka in the following May. On the 26th of November, 1778, he came in sight of the island of Mowee, one of the Sandwich group, that had not been before visited, and on the 30th approached Hawaii, the largest of them all, and conspicuous at a distance of more than a hun- dred and fifty miles, by the snow-capped heads of Mauna Kea and Manna Loa, each of which is fourteen thousand feet above the sea level. Seven weeks were spent in sailing round and surveying this fine island, and the natives showed during that time every disposition to be more friendly than any of the natives of other i.slands in the Pacific. They brought hogs, fruit, and vegetables, the articles in wliich they were most rich, and freely exchanged them against naUs, knives, hatchets, and daggers, and other iron articles which the strangers had to ofier. When Cook landed, he was received with the utmost deference, all the people falling on their faces and addressing him as Orono, the highest title of honour they could give him. It seems they took him for the god Lono, who having years ago, according to their tradition, left the islands in a canoe, had promised to return on an island bearing cocoa-nut trees, swine, and dogs. The ship's masts they took for cocoa-nut trees, and the firing of the guns for Lono's lightning and thunder ; and when they saw ' fires burning at the mouths ' of the strangers (who smoked cigars), and that the men were horned (i. e. wore cocked hats), and ' took any- thing they wanted out of their bodies ' (pockets), they made no doubt that they were Lono's won- derful people come back with him. All the time Cook stayed he received the utmost attention and kindness from these people, the great difficulty he had to contend with being their inve- terate habit of theft. On the 4th of February, 1789, the Resolution and Discovery stood out of Keala- keakua Bay on their voyage to Kamtschatka, laden with provisions and all things necessary to their enterprise ; but a storm in which they were caught so disabled the Sesohttion, that Captain Cook put back to Hawaii to repair her. The in- habitants, who had begun to tire of their guests, who ate so much food, did not welcome them back with much alacrity ; moreover, they began to ply their thievish tricks so continuously, as seriously to endanger the peaceful relations between them and the Englishmen. The circumstances which led to the rupture of this relation and to the death of Captain Cook were connected with this thievishness, and may be stated quite shortly. Several thefts had been committed, for which various punishments had been inflicted ; but theft still continued, and the officers and men of the ships took care to make severe reprisals by seizing canoes and other pro- perty, and even by the personal detention of the chiefs. A spirit of animosity was thus engen- dered, and being at its height, it happened that some of the natives carried off the large cutter belonging to the Discovery. Captain Cook ordered the armed boats of both ships to intercept any canoes that might be coming to or going from the bay, and also determined himself to seize the king, in accordance with the practice he had found effi- cacious in the other islands, until restitution of the boat should be made. The boats were sent accord- ingly, and Captain Cook landed with an armed boat's crew, intending to persuade the king if possible, if not, to compel him, to come on board the Resolution. Kariopoo, the king, agreed to come in spite of the remonstrances and entreaties of his family and the chiefs, and was on his way to the beach when the Hawaiians, believing that harm was intended to him, began to arm themselves, and to threaten the English. Captain Cook, with a lieutenant of marines, a small party of marines, and the king, was within fifty yards of where the boats lay, and a great crowd of natives gathered round the king, urging him not to go. While things were in this state, an altercation arose between some of the natives and the marines ; several of the former were killed, and after the melee became general. 328 CAPTAIN COOK. CTeople's Masazine, June 1, 1S68. in spite of Cook's efforts to stop it, the officers in charge of boats mistook the Captain's signs that they should come nearer in shore, and drew their boats farther out, their men meanwhile keeping up a fire on the people on the beach. At that time it was to the boats alone that Captain Cook had to look for his safety ; for when the marines had fired the Indians rushed among them, and forced them into the water, where four of them were killed. Their lieutenant was wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace. Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock ; he was observed making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the back of his head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his musket under the other arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution and timidity, for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed. At last he ad- vanced upon him unawares, and with a large club or common stake gave him a blow on the back of the head, and then precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain Cook. He staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand and one knee, and dropped his musket. As he was rising, and before he could recover his feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger. He then fell into a bit of water about knee deep, where others crowded upon him and endeavoured to keep him under ; but struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and casting his look towards the pinnace, seemed to sohcit assistance. Though the boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet from the crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems it was not in their power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in deeper water ; he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and beiug almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, and was endeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him a blow with a club, and he was seen alive no more. With what happened to the expedition after the death of its leader we have not now any concern. It wUl be enough to say that the ships returned home in the following year, without liaving suc- ceeded in attaining the object of their voyage. Let us, before closing this account of him and his voyages, say a few words respecting the ' now and then ' of the places that he visited. Concerning Madeira and the Cape there is not much to be said, except that the latter has changed hands, having passed from the Dutch to the English ; but concerning the other places visited by Cook, and which were more particularly con- nected with his name, a great deal might be written. Otaheite, or Tahiti, where Captain Cook received so much kindness and attention, is still governed by a native sovereign, who has certain rights over the adjacent islands. He and his people, however, besides having been converted to Christianity, have to a very great extent de- veloped the resources of the islands into a regular trade with New South "Wales. This trade consists chiefly in sugar, cocoa-nuts, and arrow-root, the staple products of the Society Islands, which are exchanged against hardware, clothes, and manu- factured goods. The population of the island at the last census was 9,000. The Marquesas Islands, which Cook also visited, and on which he found a people kindred with other South Sea Islanders, were glad in 1842 to acknowledge the sovereignty of France, under whose dominion they remain a tolerably flourishing colony, with 20,000 inhabi- tants. The question of the north-west passage, which Cook tried to answer, has since received solution at hands not less brave, and the experi- ence of later explorers has shown that Cook's verdict of ' no continent ' in high southern lati- tudes was fallacious. It would be long to describe the changes that have come over three other places — Australia, New Zealand, and the Sandwich Islands — since the days Cook first visited them. A few particu- lars may, however, be interesting. As regards New Zealand, it wUl be remembered that the banks of the Thames and the Bay of Islands were the places spoken of by Cook as the most suitable and desir- able of all he saw for the estabhshment of colonies. Subsequent experience has not shown the latter place to be so desirable as at first sight it seemed to Captain Cook ; but on the Firth of Thames the erection of the city of Auckland has justified the recommendation of the navigator. On the south-east point of the northern island, nearly opposite to Cook's favourite spot — Queen Charlotte's Sound — is Port Nicholson, with Wel- lington city inside of it ; and on the southern island there have arisen, in addition to many less important places. Nelson, in Blind Bay, and Otago or Dunedin, on the south-east coast. Poverty Bay of Captain Cook's time, is still Poverty Bay, and though places which Cook did not visit have since become the sites for flourishing towns, there are not many striking contrasts to draw between the now and then of other districts which he explored. The northern island is now divided into four pro- vinces — WelHngton, Auckland, Hawke's Bay, and Taranaki ; the southern island into five — Canter- bury, Nelson, Marlborough, and Southland ; and the population of the two is estimated at 200,000 English and 50,000 Maories. There is every rea^ son to think that the Maori population has greatly diminished in number since Cook's time ; and, under the advance of a higher civilisation, it is People's Maf;a2lne, June 1, 1868.] CAPTAIN COOK. 329 exceedingly probable that the saying current among the Maories may come true : — ' As the white man's rat has driven away the native rat ; as the European fly drives away our own ; as the clover kills our fern ; so will the Maories disappear before the white man himself.' Concerning the islands which, of all Cook's dis- coveries, have been most associated with his name, the Sandwich Islands, very much that is interest- ing might be said. The necessary considerations of space, however, forbid the insertion of more than a few general remarks. The islands are vol- canic in their origin, and mountainous ; active volcanoes exist in several of them, and the volcano of Kilauea, 6,000 feet high, on the shoulder of Mauna Loa, is perhaps the grandest in the world. On the occasion of the last eruption, a column of molten lava was flung into the air to a height of 500 feet, thence descending in liquid fire upon the adjoining country, which it overran for miles, and was only stopped by the sea. The. inhabited islands are eight in number, and lie in a .slant between north-west and south-east. Hawaii is the largest, though not the most commodious in respect of' harbours ; Oahu, the second largest, bearing the palm, and having for its chief port the excellent harbour of Honolulu, now the seat of a bishopric and the capital of the islands. Soon after Cook's death, the more powerful of the two chiefs who divided the sovereignty of the islands conquered them all, and established a dynasty, which has remained to this time. In the year 1786 this king, by way of retaliation for injuries done to him by an Ameiican captain, detained two English sailors — Isaac Davies and John Young — who hap- pened to be on shw-e at the time. These men were treated with great kindness, settled down among the people, and were married — the latter to a woman of the royal house. When Captain Vancouver visited the islands in 1790-4 he had frequent interviews with these men, and with Kamehameha, the king. Finding the king well disposed to the reception of ChristLanity, and quite disgusted with the idolatry of his people. Captain Vancouver asked Mr. Pitt to send out missionaries, but nothing was done ; and it was not till 1820 that any steps were taken to carry the light of Christian truth into these islands. Then some CongregationaUsts from America, and subse- quently some Roman Catholics, came there, and first preached the Gospel to the Hawaiians. In the year 1860, and several times after that date. King Kamehameha IV., under whom the govern- ment was formed into a constitutional monarchy, applied for a Church of England mission to be established in his kingdom ; and the appointment of the Bishop of Honolulu was the result of the application. This king, Kamehameha IV., married Emma, the granddaughter of John Young, the Liverpool shipwright, who was one of the men detained in the islands. When people read, a few months back, how Emma, Queen Dowager of the Sandwich Islands, was entertained in this country, and saw in her the representative of a high and a Christian civili- sation that was establishing itself with effect in the islands, they might have been excused for thinking that more than eighty years must have elapsed since Captain Cook was worshipped as the god Lono, and since he was savagely slain on the little promontory in what is now called Cook's Bay. CASTLES IN THE AIR. I BTJILT a castle in the air, In my wild boyhood's thoughtless glee ; And all the world was good and fair, And every heart was true to me ; TUl Time's cold blasts, too rudely blown. Shook down my castle stone by stone. I built a caatle in the air. In manhood's mom, and called it Home ; And, though sweet love and joy were there. Yet wind's would blow, and clouds would come ; And, spite of all my heart's fond trust, I felt my castle stood on dust. I built a castle in the air, And decked it o'er with wealth untold ; But soon I saw that carking care Was not kept out by bars of gold ; And Death tcould stalk through jewelled doors, And haunt my gilded corridors. I built a castle in the air, Ambition gave the wood and stone ; But I looked forth, and everywhere These castles lay on earth o'ertlirown, And nought siu'vived but a tarnished pall. Or a shivered tablet on the wall. So I ceased these airy domes to rear, For time and thought had made me wise, And taught me how 'twas bootless here To ' build on aught beneath the skies,' And air and earth alike were vain The soiil's large longings to sustain. And chastened thus, as calm I roam, What earth refuses, heaven suppHes ; For the thresholds of my Father's home Shine bright and glorious from the skies ; And steadfast now, 'mid life's brief stages, I budd me on the ' Rock of Ages.' 830 FIOTUBES OF DUTCH LIFE. CPeoplo'a Mnsraine, Jan; I , ISGS. PICTURES OF DUTCH LIFE. A Tirrcn rouTEit. 5E propose, from time to time, to give sketches of foreign towns, sometimes of the buildings and the historical associations connected therewith, and sometimes of the social and trading ma"nners and customs of the inhabitants. We shall thus bring before our tarry- at-home readers, pictures of the life going on in foreign countries, and we propose to begin with Amsterdam. Anyone who wishes to study the life and doings of the street population of Amsterdam, must visit its 'grachten.' These are the real streets of this famous old commercial city, although their name is derived from the canals which run be- tween the rows of houses. The canal generally leaves a space free on both sides for carriages and foot-passengers, and this road and pathway bear the same name as the canal. On the larger Grach- ten, these roads become complete stT-eets, and on the water-side, as well as by the houses, they are furnished with trottoirs, not composed of slabs of r