UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA College of agriculture BERKELEY Agricultural Experiment Station BENJ. IDE WHEELER, PRESIDENT THOMAS FORSYTH HUNT, DEAN AND DIRECTOR CIRCULAR NO. 81 (October, 1912) SWEET PEA GROWING CLUBS CALIFORNIA JUNIOR EXPERIMENTAL LEAGUE BY F. L. GRIFFIN UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY THE SWEET PEA GROWING CLUBS Why grow Sweet Peas? The Sweet Pea is called the "Queen of the Annuals" because it combines beauty of form, blending of color, and fragrance to a degree excelled by no other flower. Few plants respond so quickly to good cultural treatment as will the Sweet Pea, and few plants will give such a continuous display of flowers. Cali- fornia has such a range of soil and climate especially adapted to growing the Sweet Peas that boys and girls in all parts of the state can enter a Sweet Pea Growing Contest upon nearly equal terms so far as conditions of growth are concerned. The Object in Forming Clubs. Since the Sweet Pea can be grown so easily in California and is so useful in decorating the home grounds, we want to show the world that we can grow better flowers of this species than any other place in the world. By forming Sweet Pea Growing Clubs in each school, every boy and girl will be given the chance to see who can grow and exhibit the most beautiful collection of these flowers. In addition to the honor of having grown the choicest collection of Sweet Peas, the successful contestants in each club will receive certificates of merit as well as special prizes. The nature and amount of these prizes will be announced later. Divisions of Contest. To give every boy and girl the greatest pos- sible opportunity to receive an honorable mention, in addition to other awards for joining the Sweet Pea Growing Clubs, the contest has been divided into two divisions. In Division A, the awards will be given to the boys and girls who make the best display of Sweet Peas in an exhibition to be held by each club at the end of the contest. In addition to this exhibit, each contestant must present a notebook, describing all of the work done from the spading of the soil to the gathering of the flowers. (See Report Blank A on page 14.) In Division B, a grand prize (which will be announced later) and special certificates of merit (issued by the College of Agriculture, University of California) will be given to the boys and girls through- out the state who undertake and carry through to completion at least five of the experiments outlined in this circular and who present the best written report concerning every detail of the experiments. (Suggestions for making out this report will be found on page 14.) Boys and girls entering the contest under the provisions of Division B will be enrolled as members of the California Junior Experimental League. This league has for its chief aim the spread of the gospel of Scientific Agriculture to the end that every boy and girl who is interested in this fundamental and most important of all occupations, will know how to grow and care for plants and animals in the very best possible manner. The league will have its head- quarters in the College of Agriculture, University of California, thus placing every member in direct contact with the State University. Directions and Utiles for the Contest. 1. Every school in the State of California is entitled to organize one Sweet Pea Growing Club. Each club may adopt any form of constitution and by-laws it sees fit, or it may exist as a loose organization, with only temporary officers. 2. The teachers and principal of each school will assist in forming the club in that school and all that any boy or girl will have to do to join will be to ask his teacher or principal to enroll him as a member of the Sweet Pea Growing Club of that school. Special blanks can be prepared, or the form printed on page 15 of this circular can be used for this purpose. 3. Boys and girls attending school where no club wil be formed this year may join the Special Sweet Pea Growing Club by filling out the enrollment blank on page 16 of this circular. Both the School and Special Clubs will contest under the provisions of Division A, and no one will be permitted to join the Special Club who is attending a school supporting its own club. The Special Club is for the boys and girls throughout the state who do not have the opportunity to join a local school club. Boys and girls, who for any reason are not attend- ing school, may join the Special Club. 4. Boys and girls wishing to contest according to the provisions of Division B will be enrolled in the California Junior Experimental League by filling out the lower blank on page 15 of this circular. 5. Contestants who enroll in either Division A or B shall receive no direct assistance in carrying out the details of the contest, other than the suggestions received from friends or by reading. 6. Membership in the Sweet Pea Clubs will be limited to boys and girls who are not over sixteen years of age. 7. Membership in the California Junior Experimental League is limited to boys and girls over twelve years of age. HOW TO GEOW SWEET PEAS When to Plant. As this circular will have state-wide distribution and as California has such a diversity of soil and climate, it is impos- sible to prescribe any one best date or even month in which to plant Sweet Peas. Our recommendations concerning when to plant must be general, and if you are in doubt, consult some seedsman, flower- lover, or write to the address given in paragraph 3 under rules for the contest. Over a large part of the state we may begin planting in September and continue until May, remembering, however, that the earliest flowers are generally produced from the earliest planted seed. Sep- tember, October, November and February are good months in which to plant. A prominent California seedsman states that in the cities bordering San Francisco Bay, as well as in Santa Cruz and Monterey and all other places having similar climatic conditions, Sweet Peas can be sown as late as May 1 with good success. Much more depends upon the condition of the soil, however, than upon the date of planting, a fact every contestant should remember. Experiment 1. Division B The object of the experiment is to determine, if possible, when is the best time to plant Sweet Peas in your city and county. Method: Select a strip of land two feet wide and at least twelve feet long, having as uniform soil conditions as possible. Drive stakes at each of the four corners of the plat and connect them with a stout piece of twine. Now divide the bed into small plats each two feet long and two feet wide. Each month, spade up and plant one plat to Sweet Peas. Keep this up for at least five months, and if you have land and time enough, try and have plantings made during each month from September to and including May. Caution. — The seed should be from the same source for all the plantings, that is, plant all the plats from the same packet of seeds. Do not spade up a plat until a few days before planting. Try and plant on or as near the same day each month as possible. Finally, give each plat the same amount of atten- tion and care. By August 15, 1913, a report will be required from each experimenter, describing fully the methods and results of this experiment. Where to Plant. Sweet Peas do best in partly shaded locations, hence in selecting our flower bed we should so arrange it that the flowers will be in the shade some time during the day. There are some varieties of Sweet Peas having very delicate shades that will "burn" badly when exposed to the strong sun, and it is necessary to provide artificial shade. Mosquito netting is recommended as being the best to use as it will provide sufficient shade and can be easily stretched over the wire netting or stakes to which the vines are clinging. Sweet Peas will make a most pleasing effect when planted so that they will have as a background a fence, a hedge, some shrubbery, or a building. In such locations they should be planted in long, narrow beds. When grown in the open garden, exposed to the full rays of the sun, the rows should run north and south, so that all of the plants may receive a nearly equal amount of sunshine and shade. If you cannot plant in long beds or in rows in the garden, use little beds one to two feet in diameter scattered along the fence or yard boundaries, and support the vines with stakes or circular pieces of wire netting. Experiment 2. Division B The object of this experiment is to find what effect shading will have upon the growth and vigor of the plants and the coloration of the flowers. Method: Plant two small beds of Sweet Peas. Locate one bed so that the plants will receive a maximum amount of sunshine. locate the other so that its plants will receive a maximum amount of shade. Or, plant a bed of Sweet Peas in the open ground. After the flower buds begin to appear shade one-half of the bed with fine mosquito netting, coarse cheese cloth, or some other material that will not prevent all of the sun's rays from reaching the plants, and leave the other half of the bed unprotected. Caution. — Plant seeds of only one variety in this experiment. Take special pains so that all of the plants will receive the same amount of cultivation, food and other care, so that you can be sure that whatever difference there is between the shaded and unshaded plants can be attributed to the effects of shading. Preparing the Seed Bed. The soil should contain enough moisture so that it can be worked easily and cause all the clods to crumble when touched with the hoe or rake. If the rains have not softened the proposed seed bed sufficiently, the soil should be thoroughly wet down two or three days before you are ready to spade. Two methods may be used in preparing the soil for planting. The first method is to give the proposed seed bed a liberal coating of well-rotted manure and then spade it under in the usual manner. The successive steps in the process are as follows : 1. Dig a hole at one end of the proposed bed two feet wide and a foot deep, taking the soil thus removed to a place near the other end of the plot. 2. Now, after placing the edge of the spade or fork about four inches from the edge of the hole, push it straight down, using foot pressure to aid you. 3. Separate this spadeful of earth from the rest of the soil by levering, or pushing back on the top of the shovel or fork handle, and then throwing the "soil slice" upside down in the hole, mixing the manure with the soil in the process. 4. Proceed right along in this manner, filling up one hole by digging another, until the whole bed is spaded, and then filling up the the last hole with the earth removed from the first. The second method of preparing the seed bed is perhaps better known as the trench method, and it is used by all good gardeners when preparing an extra fine seed bed for either flowers or vegetables. Using stakes and stout twine, mark off the boundaries of your Sweet Pea bed, making it about two feet wide and as long as desired. Give this bed a liberal coating of old stable manure, as well as a good dressing of bone meal, if you can obtain this last named fertilizer. It is our purpose to stir the soil in this bed to a depth of two or three feet, if possible, because experience has shown that the deeper and finer the seed bed, other things being equal, the more food and water the plants can obtain. The successive steps in the trench method are as follows : 1. Dig a hole at one end of the plat, two feet square and one foot deep. 2. AYheel or carry the soil thus removed and dump it in a pile near the other end of the bed. 3. Dig up the subsoil thus exposed as deeply as possible with the spade or a pick, mixing in some manure with the lumps of earth and then fining the whole mass as much as possible. •i. Dig up the next two square feet of surface to a depth of one foot, throwing it upside down upon the subsoil that has just been broken, thoroughly mixing the manure and bone meal with the surface soil in the process. 5. Again break up the newly exposed subsoil and then cover it with inverted surface soil as before, continuing this process until the entire bed is worked over. 6. After breaking up the subsoil in the hole which is left at the end of the bed, we will fill it with the earth obtained in making the first hole, thus leaving our seed bed level, although perhaps a trifle higher than the surrounding unworked ground. The trench system of spading is really not so laborious as it sounds, but it does require more backbone than the common method. However, the extra fine Sweet Peas that can be grown in such well prepared soil will certainly more than pay anyone for this extra pffort. Experiment 3. Division B Object: To find out if the trench system of spading will really produce better Sweet Peas than the ordinary method. Method: Select a piece of ground two feet wide and eighteen feet long, all of which has had the same treatment in previous years and which is uniform in its texture and composition. Divide this bed into four plats, each two by three feet, leaving a space two feet wide between each plat. Mark or call these plats No. 1, 2, 3, and 4, respectively. Do not spade or touch the little spaces between each plat, as they will serve to prevent the plants grown in one plat from getting the benefit of the extra tillage or manure that are given the others. Prepare the seed bed in Plat 1 by simply breaking the ground three or four inches deep with the hoe and then leveling and fining the soil with a rake. Use no other tools on Plat 1. Prepare Plat 2 by the ordinary system of spading, as outlined in the general directions. (First method.) Prepare Plat 3 by the trench system, which is also outlined in the general directions. (Second method.) Leave out all fertilizers in Plats 1, 2, and 3 as we wish to demonstrate the benefits of tillage only. Prepare Plat 4 by the trench system, but include the manure as this will give a check on Plat 3 and enable us to find out the extent to which manure has helped. Plant all of the plats on the same day and use the same kind of seed. Water and cultivate all the plats the same way, at the same time. In your report, which should be submitted by August 15, 1913, describe the effect which the different kinds of tillage and the manure has had upon the Sweet Peas. How did it effect the growth, vigor and height of the vines and the color and abundance of the flowers? Planting the Seed After the seed bed has been properly prepared, — if it is very loose, firm it by treading, — make a little V-shaped furrow with the hoe, about three inches deep. Drop the seed into the furrow, four inches apart, but if all the seeds grow the resulting plants will have to be thinned. Cover the seed to a depth of one inch, leaving the balance of the furrow to be filled in later. Some growers prefer to soak the seed in water for twenty-four hours before planting, as they find that such treatment hastens germination. Experiment 4. Division B Object: To determine whether or not soaking seeds in water or notching the dry seed coat will hasten germination. Method: Divide a packet containing 100 or more seeds into three equal parts. Lot No. 1, plant in the dry condition. Lot No- 2, cut off with a knife a small portion of the seed-coat of a dry seed, making the cut or notch on the side opposite the eye or sprouting end of the seed. Lot No. 3, place in water to soak at the time lots 1 and 2 are placed in the ground. After soaking just twenty-four hours remove from the water and plant. Prepare a seed bed wide enough to contain three parallel rows six to eight inches apart and each row should be long enough to receive all the seeds of one lot, planting the seeds one inch apart in the row. Caution. — Have the soil condition the same throughout the bed. Be sure and plant all the seeds at the same depth. This can be most accurately done by leveling and fining the seed bed and then dropping each seed in a little hole made with a dibble so made that it can only penetrate one inch into the ground. Each contestant should design and made his own dibble. Keep an accurate account of the treatment and number of seeds and dates of appearance of plants in the different rows.- Arrange the results as follows: Lot 1 Lot 2 Lot 3 1st day 2nd day 3rd day etc., In these spaces indicate each day the number of for 14 days Sweet Peas appearing in each row. Send in this report with a sketch of your dibble by August 15, 1913. Selection of Varieties Seedsmen have grouped Sweet Peas into four types or classes, viz : 1. The Early Flowering, Christmas or Tournament Type. As the names will suggest, this is an early flowering type and if planted in early September the plants should be in blossom by Thanksgiving and in full bloom by Christmas. In Southern California they will blossom all winter. If any club should decide to make their contest an effort to raise early flowers for a Christmas exhibit, this will be the type of Sweet Pea to grow. Pink, white and lavender colors predominate in this class. 2. The Cupids or Dwarf Class are often grown in pots and window boxes, or used for borders, as they are a low growing, sprawling type. While the flowers are of good size, they are borne on short stems, hence will be undesirable for the purposes of this contest. 3. The Grandiflora Type is very popular and commonly grown. The seed is inexpensive. All the hooded and shell-shaped varieties are in this class, as well as the best open form, round standard types. The members of this class are often referred to as the Eckfords. This type is especially adapted for the B division of the contest. 9 4. The Spencer or Waved Varieties are fast becoming the most noted of all the Sweet Peas, although originated only ten years ago in England. The type is characterized by its vigorous vines, bearing an abundance of large flowers on long stems, usually four to a stem. They are the best of all Sweet Peas for exhibition purposes. They set very few seed pods and will therefore continue to blossom for a longer period than the other types. All contestants in Division A of the contest should plant Spencers if they possibly can. Seedsmen's lists and catalogues present a bewildering number of varieties of Sweet Peas to select from, but club members should assume the responsibility of selecting the varieties they plant, as it may count a point in their favor if they do so. Send to some reliable seed house for its flower or Sweet Pea catalogue as soon as possible and make an early selection. It is permissable, however, to allow somebody else to make the selection and the seedsman's advice will perhaps be most reliable in this case. In either event, plant only those varieties that bear flowers of a pure or self color. Do not have a mixture of colors for exhibition purposes. For the convenience of club members a few of the leading Cali- fornia seed houses are mentioned. 1. Campbell Seed House, Pasadena, Cal. (This firm makes a specialty of the Tournament or Early Flowering type.) 2. California Seed Company, San Francisco. 3. Morris & Snow Seed Company, Los Angeles. 4. Trumbell Seed Company, San Francisco. 5. Germain Seed Company, Los Angeles. 6. Chas. Winsell Seed Company, Los Angeles. 7. The Hallawell Seed Company, San Francisco. 8. C. C. Morse & Company, San Francisco. (This firm has just issued a special booklet on Sweet Pea Culture which will be sent free to all who request it.) Thinning and Cultivating. As soon as the plants are two or three inches high they should be thinned to a distance of twelve inches apart, and the more vigorous growing varieties will do better if eighteen inches apart. Crowding reduces the number and size of the flowers. Now gradually fill in the trench in which the plants are growing, by drawing in some earth each time they are cultivated. After the last rain, the Sweet Peas should be well hoed, or mulched with old manure if possible. If a manure or straw mulch is not used, a dust mulch several inches deep will prevent the loss of moisture. 10 Experiment 5. Division B Object: Does thinning really produce more and larger flowers? Method: Plant a row of Sweet Peas at least ten or twelve feet long. Divide into three parts. Plant the seeds thickly in this row. After they appear above ground, thin Part 1 to two inches apart. Thin Part 2 to six inches apart. Thin Part 3 to twelve inches apart. Give the entire row the same kind and amount of cultivation and irrigation. Result: Describe every step in the experiment and tell what difference thinning had upon the size and number of the flowers in the different parts. Experiment 6. Division B Object: Will good cultivation have any effect upon the growth of the vines and the number and size of the flowers? Method: Plant a row of Sweet Peas eight or ten feet long. After the peas appear above ground divide the row into two parts. Cultivate Part 1 the very best way you know how. Do not cultivate Part 2 at all. Give both parts an equal amount of water and apply it in the same manner to both. Results: Describe the difference, if any, in the growth and vigor of the vines and the number of sprays and size of the flowers. Training the Plants. AYhen the plants are three or four inches high they should be provided with something to eling to. Tree boughs with plenty of twigs form good supports. A trellis made by driving stakes in the rows and stretching twine or wire between them is often used. Wire netting forms an excellent support but is more expensive. The supports should be five or six feet high at least, for in some instances Sweet Peas will attain a height of ten to twelve feet. Examine the plants often to see if any shoots require training or tying to the supports. This not only makes the flower bed look better, but actually helps in producing better flowers by keeping the vines straight, which in turn produce straight stems. Feeding and Watering the Plants. By the time the vines are two feet high, the plants will be demanding an increasing amount of water, and if there are no rains irrigation must be practiced. Much better results will be obtained by watering the plants thoroughly once or twice a week than by sprinkling every day. Make a furrow along each row of plants in which to run the water. A deep furrow is better than a shallow one, but the deep furrow must not be closer than ten or twelve inches, while if shallow it can be much closer. Run the water in the furrow in the evening and then fill in with earth the next morning, thus preventing the furrows from drying out and baking. If the soil is very light or poor, or if extra large flowers are desired, the plants can be forced by feeding. This should not be done until the plants are three or four feet high and have produced some flowers. For feeding or forcing, the plant food should be applied in a liquid 11 form. One of the easiest ways of making Liquid immure is to put some stable manure into a gunnysack and soak it in a tub or barrel of water. Stir the liquid well before using and mix one part of the liquid manure to about twenty parts of water, before applying to the plants. In using the liquid manure, it will be better to first irrigate the plants in the usual way, by the furrow 7 method, then apply the diluted liquid manure. Once a week wall be often enough to use this fertilizer. Commercial fertilizers, like nitrate of soda, may be used in a similar manner, but they are often so concentrated that they must be used carefully. Over-feeding will produce a rank growth and poor flowers. Experiment 7. Division B Object: To determine the best method of applying water to plants. Method: Plant three beds of Sweet Peas, each two feet wide and four feet long. If these beds are in a row, have an uncultivated space of at least twelve inches between the beds. After the vines begin to run, irrigate Bed 1 by sprinkling, using a sprinkling can of known capacity or otherwise measuring the water. Irrigate Bed 2 by running the water in a shallow furrow three or four inches from the plants. Irrigate Bed 3 by running the water along the row twelve inches from the plants, in a deep but narrow furrow. Use the same amount of water each time on each bed and do not cultivate any of the beds throughout the experiment. Try to have similar soil conditions for each bed and to treat them the same in every way except in watering. Besult: Describe the difference in the amount, color and vigor of foilage and the relative abundance and size of flowers in each of the three beds. Experiment 8. Division B Object: To determine the benefit of feeding plants with liquid manure. Method: Prepare three plats and plant to Sweet Peas as in Experiment 7. Cultivate, train and water the plants in each of the plats the same way. When the vines are three to four feet high and beginning to blossom, water Plat 1 once a week with liquid manure in the same manner as previously described. Water Plat 2 once a week with a solution of nitrate of soda, one ounce in five gallons of water. Water Plat 3 with ordinary tap water once a week, at the same time the liquid manures are applied to the other plats. Caution. — Try and use exactly the same volume of liquid on each plat each time. Cultivate and otherwise treat these plats in identically the same manner. Result: Has the manure water or nitrate of soda solution made any appre- ciable difference in the growth, vigor and color of foliage, and in the abundance and size of the flowers on the different plats? Care of Plants and Blossoms. The flowers should not be allowed to wither on the plant, but should be removed just as they have reached their prime. This will greatly prolong the blossoming period and at the same time provide beautiful sprays of flowers to make the indoors more attractive. 12 Extra large flowers may be produced by picking off most of the flower-buds on a spray or branch before they have opened, thus giving the blossoms that remain an extra amount of food. Sweet Peas are generally very free from fungous diseases and insect pests. If the Red Spider or Green Aphis appear on the vine give the vines a good drenching with the hose. If the insects get very bad, spray the vines with the Whale Oil Soap solution. Experiment 9. Division B Object: To demonstrate that the process of removing the blossoms on Sweet Pea vines, before they winter or go to seed, will prolong the blossoming period. Method: Plant a row of Sweet Peas eight or ten feet long. Care for the plants in the best manner you know how. When the blossoms appear divide the row into two sections. In Section 1 carefully remove all of the flowers as soon as they reach their prime or begin to wither. In Section 2 do not pick a single blossom, but allow all to go to seed. Keep a careful count of all the flowers (not sprays) removed from Section 1. At the end of the season, or by August 1, 1913, determine the number of seed pods on the vines in Section 2 as well as the number of flowers remaining in Section 1. Eesult: Have you noticed any appreciable difference in the number and size of the flowers produced in Section 1 and 2? What was the actual number of flowers produced in Section 1? In Section 2 (each seed pod corresponds to one flower) ? What was the per cent of increase or decrease of flowers in Section 1 as compared with Section 2? A Suggestive Score Card for Judging a Sweet Pea Exhibit Division A of the Contest A total of 50 points may be allowed for the twenty best sprays of Sweet Peas grown and exhibited by any contestant. A possible total of 50 points should also be allowed for the notebook. It is suggested that the points be distributed as follows: Sweet Pea Exhibit Notebook Points Freshness and good color 15 Notes to be based upon outline in Number of flowers to stem (four) 10 Blank A. Length of stem (18 in. approxi- Points mately) 10 Arrangement of flowers on stem.. 5 Neatness 15 Size of blossoms 10 (Approximate width of Stand- Accuracy 20 ard: 1% in. for Spencers; iy± in. for other varieties.) Completeness 15 Total, a possible 50 Total, a possible 50 The number of points awarded for the exhibit should be added to those given the notebook, making a total of 100 possible points in the contest. 13 From the above it will be seen that a contestant getting only second or third place for his exhibit, may get first prize on account of a good notebook. California Junior Experimental League Sweet Pea Growing Division The awards in Division B of the contest will depend entirely upon the notebook submitted. Contestants should take special pains to carry out all of the suggestions given in each of the experiments and to keep a full and accurate account of their work. The reports should be mailed to The Dean, College of Agriculture, University of Cali- fornia, Berkeley, by August 15, 1913. Note. — Special report blanks will be mailed to contestants upon receipt of their application for membership in the Experimental League. The cuts used in this circular are furnished by the courtesy of C. C. Morse & Company 14 REPORT BLANK A For Sweet Pea Growing Contest HOW THE CROP WAS GROWN 1. Grown by , School 2. Postoffice address 3. Area of plat in sq. rods, or the total length of rows 4. Kind of soil, — loamy, sandy, clayey, adobe, peaty 5. Kind of crop grown on it the year before 6. Kind of crop grown on it the second year before 7. Kind and amount of fertilizer used 8. Cost of fertilizer 9. Date of spading Hours required 10. Depth of spading in inches 11. Additional preparation of the ground: (a) How many times hoed when (b) How many times raked when (c) How otherwise prepared (d) Total hours work of preparation 12. Variety name 13. Seed procured from Did you select varieties yourself? 14. Quantity used for seed 15. Number of hills, or plants grown 16. Date of planting , 191. 17. Date when plants first came up , 191. 18. Date of each irrigation, if any , 191. 19. Date of each cultivation or hoeing , 191. 20. Date of first blossoms ready for picking , 191. .21. Date of any frosts on the crop , 191. 22. Number of specimens selected 23. Date of selecting specimens for exhibit , 191. 24. Notes on specimens at the time of exhibit 25. Was the selecting done without any other person present? 26. Was all the work of production done by the contestant? 27. Total number of hours worked I hereby certify that the above report is true. (Signed) Parent or Guardian. Teacher. 15 APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP IN THE SWEET PEA GROWING CLUB (For boys and girls not over 16 years of age.) Please enroll me as a member of the (School) Sweet Pea Growing Club of (city) (county), California. I promise to abide by all the rules of the Club and regulations of the Contest as outlined in this circular, and will do my best to grow a prize winning exhibit of Sweet Peas and to present a complete report of all my work- I wish to compete under the pro- visions of Division A, of the Contest, as outlined in this circular. (Signed) (Address) Parents or Guardians will please signify their consent by signing below. (Cut this out, fill in the blanks, and hand to your teacher or principal.) APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP IN THE CALIFORNIA JUNIOR EXPERIMENTAL LEAGUE (For boys and girls over 12 years old.) Please enroll me as a member of the California Junior Experimental League. I desire to cooperate with the College of Agriculture, University of California, in spreading the knowledge of Scientific Agriculture, and I will try: to learn all 1 can about growing plants and animals and taking care of their products. Every experiment I undertake I will carry through to completion if I possibly can. (Signed) (Age) ( Address) Parents or Guardians please signify their consent by signing above. (Cut this application out and send to The Dean, College of Agriculture, University of California, Berkeley.) 16 APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP IN THE SPECIAL SWEET PEA GROWING CLUB FOR INDIVIDUAL COMPETITORS (For boys and girls who cannot join a local club.) Please enroll me as a member of the Special Sweet Pea Growing Club as there is no Club in my school or town which I can join. I promise to abide by all the rules of the Club and regulations of the Contest as outlined in this circular, and will do my best to grow a prize winning exhibit of Sweet Peas. In addition, I will present a complete account of all my work. (Signed) . (Address). (School) Parents or Guardians please signify their consent by signing above blank. (Cut this application out and send to The Dean, College of Agriculture, University of California, Berkeley.)