■- mm ■ MM ,. '■■'■.'■■'•'.' Hill 111 ■• Bora - '• •■»■■."." / * p~*~z> ■ 3 e+*fa J&AC- THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT r- A VIEW O F ANCIENT AND MODERN DUBLIN, WITH ITS IMPROVEMENTS TO THE YEAR I 7 9 6. TO WHICH IS ADDED TOUR TO BELLEVUE, IN THE COUNTY OF WICKLOW, THE SEAT OF PETER LA TOUCHE, fisqj Knight of the Shire for the County of Leitrim, By JOHN FERRAR, Author of the Hiftorv of Limerick. To mend the heart, and harmonize the mind, T' add fcnfibility to all mankind ; With charity and fong to foothe our cares, And cull the hopeful flowers from noxious tares. DUBLIN 1796. DA D75 fn [ vii ] PREFACE. X H E following tour was planned and executed in a fhort fpace of time ; — four weeks. From the learned, the author will hope for indulgence ; becaufe it was his zealous intention, and warmeft wifh, not only to entertain, but to improve every one who takes up the book. If it finds a place in the library of the virtuous ; — if he is fo happy as to entertain the fair and amiable part of the creation; — to ftrengthen one good mind in the difcharge of its moral duty ; — or to reform one bad one from the deftru&ive paths of vice ; then it will be a fource of conftant fatisfaclion, and a pleafing reflection, that he made a tour to Bellevue, .« Reader forgive him then, If author of no mifchief, and fome good, He feek his proper happinefs, by means That may advance, but cannot hinder thine." The great interefts of truth and huma- nity are indeed a worthy and exalting en- quiry. To bring former pleafing fcencs to the [ vffi ] the traveller's recollection, is alfo a pleafing talk. It addreffes our finer feelings, and gives exercife to every mild and generous propensity. The following pages will be found to contain a more circumftantial View of Dublin, and its improvements, than was ever published. It was the au- thor's defire to give the public an ufeful, not an expenfive book. He embraces this opportunity of exprefT- ing his grateful fenfe of the honours con- ferred on him by the prefent Roman Pontiff, alfo for the obliging communica- tions of Mrs. Peter La Touche, General Straton, the Honourable and Reverend William Dawfon, the Reverend Doctor Barrett, S. F. T. C. the Reverend Edward Ledwich, Mr. Jofiah Boydell of London, Mr. Grierfon, Mr. Samuel Walker, Mr. Samuel Sproule, Mr. Whitmore Davis, and Mr. J. Campbell, Paradife-row. Dublin, October i, 1796. [ iii ] SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Earl of Aldborough Countefs of Aldborough Mrs. Atkinfon Jofeph Atkinfon, Efq; Mich. Marfhall Apjohn, Efq; Edraond Armftrong, Efq; Mrs. Brown low, 2 copies. Mifs Brownlow Mifs Fanny Brownlow Mifs Brownrigg Mrs. Barry Mrs. Buckley, Briflol Mifs Bunian Rt. Hon. John Beresford Rt. Hon. Sir John Blaquiere Hon. Francis N. Burton Jofiah Boydell, Efq; Rev. DocW Barrett Richard Paul Bonham, Efq; William Blacker, Efq; T. C. John Bagwell, Efq; Mr. Champion Brady Mr. John Bennett, Briftoi James Bell, Efq; London Rev. Thomas Burgh Mr. John Byrn Mr. Godfrey Byrn Mr. Ulick Burke Mr. George Brett Blue Coat Hofpital Mr. John Bovfe Mr. Richard Burnett Mr. John Birch Lady Colthnrft Hon. Sophia Cecil Mrs. E. Cregan Lord Vifcount Conyngham Lord Cloncurry Spencer Compton, Efq; Samuel Cooper, Efq; Richard Cane, Efq; John Cam, Efq; Campbell, Efq; James Carrick, Efq; Richard Cuthbert, Efq; Hans Caulfield, Efq; Mr. Edward Chapman Mr. George Chapman Mr. John Campbell Mr. James Campbell Mr. W. Paulett Carey Mr. St George Campbell Mr. Coulfon, T. C. D. Mr. H. B. Clarke Mr. Richard Cook Mr. Collis Crowe Mr. Richard Canter Mr. Laurence Cafey Mifs Davy, Briflol Hon. and Rev. Will. Dawfon Rev. Doclor Dobbyn Rev. Robert Difney Patrick Dennis, Efq; Kilkenny James Dixon, Efq; Henry D'Efterre, Efq; Alexander Donovan, Efq; S. T. C. D. Mafter J Henry Davis Mr. Whitmore Davis Mr. Bennett Dugdale Mr. John Donnelan Mr. Robett Darlington Lord Bifhop of Elphin John Exfhaw, Efq; A 2 Chailcs [ »v ] Charles EchlJn, Efq; John Ellerton, Efq; Rev. Doctor Fitzgerald Augufline Fitzgerald, Efq; Charles Fitzgerald, Efq; J. Walcot Fitzgerald, Efq; Thomas G. Fitzgerald, Efq; T. C. D. Mr. Anthony Fox Captain Fellows Alderman Fleming Rev. Mr. FJyn Mr. Edward Flin Mr. James Ferrier Mr. G. Folingfby, 6 copies Doctor Chriflopher Fitzfimons Countefs of Granard Earl of Granard Mrs. Grattan Geo. Grierfon, Efq; 25 copies Henry Deane Grady, Efq; James Griffith, Efq; Mr, Will. Goggin, 25 copies Rev. Mr. Goff Mr. Jacob Geoghegan Mr. George Garty Mr. William Geary Mr Alexander Gordon Mr. T. Auguftine Geary Hon. Mrs. Howard, London Mrs. Hume Mifs Hughes, London Sir Vere Hunt, Bart. Sir Robert Hudfon, Bart. Will. Auguftus Howard, Efq; M.D. F. R. S. London Rev. Doctor Hume Rev. Mr. Hume Mr. Edward Hughes, London William Holland, Efq; Henry Hutton, Efq; Robert Hancock, Efq; Rev. Averili Hill J. S. Harrifon, Efq; Hans Hamilton, Efq; Mrs George Hoey v\ illiam Higginbotham, Efq; David Hunter, Efq; London Mr. James Haly Mr. Matthew Honan Mr. Charles Harricks Mr. John Hoyle Captain John Howard Mrs. Johnfon .Airs. Jeffreys J. Jackfon, Efq; Samuel Johns, Efq; Rev. J. Irvine Rev. Henry Ingram Mr. Drury Jones Lord Kilmaine John Kelly, Efq; Thomas Kelly, Efq; Anthony King, Efq; Andrew Knox, Efq; John Kilpatrick, Efq; Surgeon Kerr Mr. John K earns Mr. John Kerans Mr. John Kelly .jj f Mrs. Peter La Touche Lady Cecilia La Touche Mils La Touche Rt. Hon. David La Touche David La Touche, Efq; John La Touche, Efq; John La Touche, Jun. Efq; Peter La Touche, Efq; Peter La Touche, Jun. Efq; Peter Digges La Touche, Efq; Robert La Touche, Efq; George La Touche, Efq; Paul Le Mefurier, Efq; London William Locke, Efq; Michael Lloyd, Efq; Robert L. Lackey, Efq; Mrs. Richard Lloyd Rer. C v ] Rev. Edward Ledwich Rev. Thomas Locke Mr. Thomas Lee Countefs of Moira and Haflings Countefs of Miltown Mrs. Humphrey Minchin Mrs. W. A. Minchin IViifs Minchin Earl of death Earl of Moira Hon John MafTey General MafTey Sir Hugh D'lion MafTey, Bart W. Mackintosh, Efq; London Humphrey Minchin, Efq; John Mincnin, Efq; W. A. Minchin, Efq; Francis Mathew, Efq; Francis Mc. Namara, Efq; John Moore, Efq; John M'Clintock, Ffq; P. 'arjoribanks, Lfq; George Morgan, Efq; Wiliiam Marrett, Efq; Bryan M' Mahon, Efq; Nicholas Viahon, Efq; Randall .\ic. Donnell, Ffq; Arbuthnoc Marrett, T. C. D. B. W. Mathias, T. C. D. Mr. .Murphy, T. C. D. Mr. James A iagee Mr. Par. Mun-ay Mr Peter Murray Mr. Samuel .iorris Mr. John Moore Mr. James M'Donnell Mailer J. L. Mc. Crea Mr. B. Mathews, fenior Mr. F. Aiathews Burton Newenham, Efq; Aylmer Neville, Lfq; Mr. Charles Neil Mr. Francis Neil Mr. Thomas Neil Ralph Oufley, Efq; John O Neil, Efq; William O' Regan, Efq; Gordon O'Neil, Efq; Mr.M. O'Vlara Mr. James O'Reilly Lady Powerfcourt Rt. Hon. Thomas Pelham Doctor Paifley Thomas Prendergaft, Efq; John Parker, Efq; London Thomas Pugh, Efq; London Eyie Burton Powell, Efq; Reverend Richard Powell Rev. John Pennefather Mr. John Parry, Bookfeller, 50 Copies Mr R latthew Parker Mr. Michael Pennick Theobald Pepper, Efq; Mafter J. Shore Parry Sir Boyle Roche, Bart. William Rowley, junior, Efq; William Rifk, Efq; Cap. Reide Reverend William Role Mr. Rigby Mr. Pat. Ryan Mr. James Ryan Mr. George Ruflell Mr. James RufTell Hon. Richard Sent Leger John Prendergaft Smyth, Efq; William Smyth, Efq; Henry Stamer, Efq; William Stamer, Efq; Edward Shiel, Efq; Henry Sirr, Efq; W. B. Swan, Efq; Cap. Sutton Mr. James Stanford Reverend Doctor Stack Rev. [ vl ] Rev. Abraham Seawright Reverend Matthew Sleater Samuel Sproule, tfq; Mr. John Sharman Mr. Patrick Sheeby Mr George Sharpe Mr James Shore John Sraithwick, Efq; Moft Rev. Doftor Troy John TaafFe, Efq; Jofeph Tenifon, Efq Stephen Travers, Efq; Jofeph Taylor, Efq; Reverend Mr. Tew Mr- Robert Tegart Mr. Taylor Mrs. Vefey Mifs Venables, London Mifs Charlotte Vicars Edward Vicars, Lfq; Richard Vicars, Efq; Reverend Robert Vicars, Col. Urqhuart Charles Vereker, Efq; John Venables, Efq; Mr. H. Ferrar Venables Mr. Patrick Vaughan Mrs. Woodroffe Mrs. Wafon Nicholas Weflby, Efq; Walter Widenham, Efq; Tandy Wilkinfon, Efq; Adderly W ilcocks, Efq; Captain Welch John Vv aller, Efq; Bolton Waller, Efq; Samuel Walker, Efq; Edw. Athenry vVhyte, Efq; John Thomas Weftropp, Efq; George V* ebb, Efq; Robert Williams, Efq; London Mr. Robert Webb Mr Samuel V/hyte Mr. Henry Walker Mr. Jofeph Walker Mr. George v heeler Mr James Wafon Mr. Matthew v - illiamfon Mr. Edward Weyman Mr. Paul Wright Mrs. W all, Pallis Rev. Archdeacon Wall Mr. Richard Welfh. t \ Y/////SS //. f / />/'/'. 'hv/t/' /le/Vf m //< ff. VIEW OF DUBLIN, &c, CHAPTER I. Ejfecls of travelling — Invocation — Views in Ireland — Dublin — Its Antiquity — Colony from Brifiol — Caftle defcribed — Terms and Parliaments held there — Carmelites — Printing in Irijlo Characters — Quays built — Population of Dublin — Churches -—Trinity College — Trial of Fellows —Theatre — New Chapel — Library — Famous Men — Epitaphs —Mufeum — Society of King's Inns — Conftantia Grierfon — Hiflorical Society — Botanic Garden — John Hozvard — Rojnan Catholic College at Maynooth — Truftees — Profeffors. JL RAVELLING for health or pleafure over this fertile and beautiful ifland, is one of the many- benefits arifing from good roads. It is an amufe- ment by which a luxuriant capital diftributes a portion of its fuperfluous riches through thirty- two counties, and a number of villages, fome of which confider the money thus expended as their principal fupport. On the other hand, the tra- veller finds his curiofity gratified, his knowledge b encreafed, 2 VIEW OF DUBLIN. encreafed, or his health reftored ; — while the fcenes of virtuous induftry and of fuffering po- verty, which prefent themfelves, efpecially in re- mote parts of Ireland, will, in the comparifon y imprefs his heart with gratitude towards HIM, who " fpreadeth his light over the earth, and " eovereth the bottom of the fea." It will teach him a leifon of humility and contentment, which until then he probably never had the pleafure of enjoying fo completely, and he will be thankfuL «'» But Oh ! Thou bounteous Giver of all good, ** Thou art of all Thy gifts, Thyfelf the crown I " Give what Thou canft, without Thee we are poor, M And with Thee rich, take what Thou canfl away !" It produces exquifite fatisfa&ion to the man of fenfibility, to fee the human face divine ; — to fludy all ranks- of mankind, fometimes walking or riding, fometimes in a chaife or coach. We rleed not defire to explore diftant countries when we have fuch various' and inexhauftible refources at home. Travelling diffufes reciprocal benefits from the capital to the moll: diftant parts of the kingdom. To promote thi3 ufeful purpofe, and gratify the numerous vifitors of Bellevue, the author began with an effay, and ended in a vo- lume, touching on fome places never defcribed before. Auguil is certainly the belt month for travelling, either for health or amufement. The glory of Ireland confifts in its picturefque views, romantic fcenery and natural curiofities ; which to explore with fatis faction requires both a clear fky VIEW OP DUBLIN. 3 (ky and ample time. Whoever hurries along in a clofe carriage, arriving late, and fetting out early, muft return with a very fuperficial know- ledge of what he goes to fee. As this tour begins with Dublin, it is neceffary to give fome account of the city, which we hope will appear novel and interefting. The origin of Dublin never was, and probably never will be afcertained. The fabulous dories of fome writers, and the wild conjectures of others, bewilder with- out fatisfying the mind. The city is firft men- tioned by Ptolemy in the year 140, when it was confined to the fouth fide of the river ; and we know the Danes entered the Liffey, in the year 498, with a fleet of 60 fail ; poffefTing themfelves of Dublin, Fingal, &c. j they walled the former. Before the harbour was cleared they had feven caftles near Dalkey for ftoring their cargoes.* The next ancient authority concerning Dublin is king Edgar's charter, called Ofwald's Law, dated at Gloucefter in the year 964. In the tenth cen- tury they had kings in feveral parts of Ireland, one of whom, Sitric, ruled Dublin in 1038, and gave the ground for building Chrift Church. They were attached to the Roman pontiff, and fixed the fpiritual fovereignty at Armagh *. b 2 Dublin * See Ledwich's Antiquities, p. 428 ; a work of great re- fearch and ingenuity, the author of which has taken much lau- dable pains to remove the rubbifh which concealed the Irifh hiftory. See alfo Mr. Ledwich's Statistical Account of the Parifh of Aghaboe ; which we hope will be followed throughout the kingdom, as it is «xtrernely ufeful and entertaining. 4 VIEW OF DUBLIN", Dublin was erecled into a bifhopric by Wil- liam the conqueror in the year 1084, and into an archbifhopric in n 52; foon after which pe- riod, Henry II. encouraged a colony from Briftol to fettle there, 500 of whom, diverting themfelves at Cullen's Wood, were furprized and killed by the Irim en Eafler Monday 1209. In the reign of John the fee of Glandeloch, in the county of Wicklow, was united to Dublin. The caftle of Dublin was built in 1 2 1 3 *, by- Henry de Londres, and was flanked with towers, and * It is afferted in the Anthologia Hibernica, that Dublin originated in a few cabins, erected on a rath or hill where the eafcle now (lands. Thefe were furrounded by an entrenchment r and inhabited by a few poor fifl-ermen. An arm of the LifFey flowed through Crampton-court, the Lower Caftle -yard, and at high water, beat againir. the riling ground in Ship-ftreet. Ano- ther arm of the river fwelled fo far as Fifhamble-ftreet : and the Poddle overflowed Bride-ftreet. Harris informs us that fo late as i534> Crane-lane, EfTex-ftreet, Temple-bar and Fleet- ftreet were a flrand, which was not embanked until the reign of Charles II. In 1535 there was a fmall harbour in Dames- gate, near Cork-hill, where archbifnop Alan embarked for Eng- land. The Danes feized on the infant city, enlarged and for- tified it in the year 1015, coined money there, beat off Me- highlin, king of Meath, who attacked them and burned the fuburbs. However in 11 70 it yielded to the Englifh under Miles de Cogan and Raymond le Grofs, who with 5400 men reduced it, and put an end to the Danifh power. As this con- fined fpot was unpleafant, Henry II. erected a pavilion on the fpot where Caftle-market lately flood. King John added confi- derably to the caftle, but the completion of his dsfign was re- ferved for Henry the Londres, who finifhed it ; yet it went to decay, and the chief governors were obliged to keep their court at St. Sepulchre's, Kilmainham and St. Thomas's-abbey. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 5 and moated ; but was not converted to the vice- roy's ufe until the reign of queen Elizabeth. Birmingham tower was rebuilt in 1777, and in the fouthern range a handfome edifice, called Bedford Tower, has been erected ; the front is decorated with a fmall arcade of three arches, over which is a very handfome octagon fteeple, with a cupola. This tower fronts the viceroy's apartments, and is connected with the building on each fide by two gates, with flatues of Juftice and Fortitude. The principal court is an oblong fquare, where the viceroy's body guard of horfe and foot is mounted every day. There is alfo a company of battle-axe guards, who do duty in the caftle, and more immediately furround his excellency, now John Jeffreys Pratt, Earl Camden *. The lower court contains the trea- fury, regifter office, (late offices, military ftores, an armory for 40,000 men, and a barrack, where a company of foldiers is ftationed. The ball- room, which is now appropriated to the meetings of the illuflrious order of St. Patrick, is called St. * Charles Pratt, father of the prefent earl, was born in 1730, created baron Camden in 1765, and earl Camden, vif- count Bayham, in 1786. In 1754 he married mifs Elizabeth Jeffreys, by whom — who died in 1780 — he had iffue John Jef- freys, the prefent earl, born in 1759. He married December 31ft, 1786, mifs ■ Molefworth, niece to lord Lucan. His lordfliip landed 31ft March 1795, and was fwom lord lieu- tenant on the fame day. His fecretary is the right honourable Thomas Pelham. The celebrated writer, Mr. Jofeph Addifon, was fecretary to the earl of Wharton, lord lieutenant of Ire- land. 6 VIEW OF DUBLIN. St. Patrick's Hall, is magnificent in its conftrue* tion, and fpacious in its dimenfions, being lately ornamented in the cieling with fome excellent hiftorical and allegorical paintings by the inge- nious Mr. Waldre. The caftle was the ordinary place of meeting both for the parliament and courts of juflice, until the rebellion of 1641, and from thence to the refloration. The large halls of re- ligious houfes alfo afforded a commodious recep- tion to the parliament, which met in the year 1333 in the hall of the Carmelites in White- friar's-ftreet, now the Methodiil meeting-houfe *. It is recorded that the firfl book printed in Dublin was the Englifh liturgy, by Humphrey Powel, in the year 1550 ; and fo early as 1571, Nicholas Walfh, chancellor of St. Patrick's church, introduced printing in Irifh characters. In the 17th of Charles I. the citizens of Dublin brought in their plate to be coined, to fupply the exigencies of the flate. In the beginning of the laft century the river Liffey was not bounded by quays on the northern fide ; from Ellis's to Or- mond-quay — a mile in extent — was overflowed by the tides ; and in the prefent century much more of the city has been reclaimed from the river and from the fea. The fouthern parts have alfo furprizingly encreafed ; there are perfons living who remember a part of Grafton-flreet to be meadow ground. The conflant feuds among the Irifli themfelves ; the inconquerable jealoufy of * Harris's Hiflory of Dublin, page 43. VIEW OP DUBLIN. 7 *of their wealthy neighbours ; the frequent drug- gies for property and power between the Englifh chieftains * ; all contributed to make it a deprefled and negle&ed city ; and it is not to be wondered at if the people are many years behind their neighbours in all the improvements of civilized life. We will now examine the population of Dub- lin, which is the fureft criterion to judge the ex- tent of a city. In the laft century it was an in- confiderable place, when Rriftol could boaft of many a gothic pile, and pofteffed great trade, with double the number of inhabitants. Yet we ihall fee immediately that it now doubles Briftol in its population, and has increafed within this century more than any city in Europe, London excepted. In the year 1 644 it appears that the inhabitants were numbered by order of govern,- -ment, when there were 5551 proteftants, and 2608 Roman catholics ; Total number in 1644 - - 8,159 In 1681, the number was - - 40,000 In 1745 - 121,48c Between 171 1 and 1753 there were 4030 houfes built ; in which laft year the -number of inhabitants was - - 128,570 In * The principal families that came into Ireland during the firft fixteen years of the invafion of the Englifh, were the Barrys, Bruces, Chappels, Cogans, Comyns, Courceys, Courtenays, Ferrers, Fitz-Geralds, Fitz- Henrys, Fitz-Maurices, Flemings, Glanvilles, Griffiths, Haitings, Lacys, Nangles, Nugents, Power, or De la Poers, Prendergafts, Purcells, Smyths, Tho- mas, Tuites, Tyrrels, Verdons, Welfhes. 8 VIEW OF DUBLIN. In 1766 the number was - - 131,940 In 1795 - ... 220,000 Which is one-fifth of London, and double that of Briftol *. Thus it appears that the inhabitants of Dublin increaied in 37 years near five times their number, and in the laft 50 years they in- creafed 98,520. Thefe calculations were taken from the Philofophical Tranfa&ions, and from the laborious and ingenious Do&or Rutty. From the clofeft inveftigation Dublin feems to be un- der-rated, and London rather over-rated in their population. To afcertain that of the two firft cities of the Britifh empire is labour well be- llowed. Befides the cathedral of Saint Patrick, and Chrift church, there are 18 parifli churches in Dublin, with 45 chapels of various denomina r tions f. St. Patrick's would appear to advantage, if * Dublin contains two-thirds of the inhabitants which the whole kingdom numbered in the year 1 169, when, according to that profound politician, Sir William Petty, Ireland contained only 300,000 ; and has increafed fince that time as fourteen to one, according to the calculation of Gervais Parker Bufhe, Efq. f In the nave of this church are fome fepulchral inferiptions ; that of Dean Swift was compofed by himfelf, and forcibly de- fcribes his ftate of mind at the time. " Hie depofitum eft corpus Jonathan Swift, S. T. D. hujus ecclefice cathedralis decani, ubi fseva indignatio ulterius cor lacerare nequit. Abi viator et imitare, fi poteris llrenuum pro virili libertatis vindicatorem. Obiit 19 die menfis Octobris 1745, ^Etat. 78." There VIEW OF DUBLIN. 9 if placed in an open elevated fpot ; but it is fome- times laid under water, and not much frequented by valetudinarians. It was built in 1190 by archbifhop Comyn ; the fpire in 1750, by a le- gacy from Doctor Sterne, late bifhop of Clogher. The church contains a good monument of the Ionic order, by Van Noft, with ornaments of ex- cellent fculpture, and a Latin infcription to the memory of the late archbifhop Smyth, fon to Doctor Thomas Smyth, bifhop of Limerick in 1695. Chrift church is a venerable gothic ftruc- ture, built by Dona*:, bifhop of Dublin in 1038, for which purpofe Sitric, the Dane, gave the ground. Edward VI. added the chorifters. It is remarkable for the burial place of Richard earl of Strongbow, who died in 11 74*; for a good monument of the Kildare family, and another of lord chancellor Bowes, who died in July 1776. Saint Werburgh's is a very ancient church ; it was partly burned in 1754, and repaired with confiderable tafle in 1759. The front is perfectly and elegantly proportioned in the different orders of There is another monument of Duke Schonnberg, who fell glorioufly at the Boyne, and was written by Dean Swift, after having in vain folicited his heirs to erect a fuitable monument to his memory. # Lord John Cutts, celebrated for being a hero and a poet, was buried in Chrift church in January 1706-7. On the ac- ceffion of queen Anne he was made commander in chief of the forces in Ireland, and one of the lords juftices, to keep him out of the way of aclion ; a circumftance which broke his heart. i o VIEW OF DUBLIN. of architecture ; the fleeple, which is extremely light and beautiful, is 160 feet high, and the fpire was built in 1768. Saint Anne's church in Dawfon-ftreet * feerns to be the faireft church in Dublin, where magnificence of difplay is correct- ed by fimplicity of defign. Its front, copied from a church at Rome, confifts of a range of Doric pilaflres, with regular entablature ; but the ori- ginal defign was never completed. St. Thomas's church is alfo a very handfome one, but was ne- ver finimed ; it forms an excellent termination to Gloucefter-ftreet ; the infide well defigned, and decorated with columns of the Corinthian order. The ornaments are numerous, and the flucco work is particularly admired. In the year 1689 mod of the churches were feized on, and trans- ferred to the Roman catholics. Saint Andrew's was built in 1670, and is now rebuilding. The univerfity of Dublin was firfl projected by archbifhop Leech in the year 1 3 1 1 , but death prevented his good defign. His fucceffor, Alex- ander de Bicknor revived and eftablifhed it in Saint Patrick's church. Trinity college was founded * The mayoralty-houfe, in Dawfon-ftreet, is a fpacious roomy building, fuitable to the dignity of the chief magistrate. In the garden ftands the equeftrian ftatue of George 1. which was formerly the ornament of Effex-bridge ; and in the three par- lours are ten good whole length portraits of Charles II. Wil- liam, III. the dukes of Bolton and Richmond, the marquifTes Townfhend and Buckingham, the carls of Northumberland, Harcourt and Buckingham{hire 3 and alderman Henry Gore Sajikey. VIEW OF DUBLIN. II Founded by queen Elizabeth in 1591 ; but the original conflitution being found imperfect, it received a new charter in 1637, and a fet of fta- tutes compiled by archbifhop Laud. During Tyrone's rebellion in Ulfter it ftruggled with many difficulties, but it was foftered by James and Charles ; and has arifen to be one of the mod extenfive and efteemed univerfities in Eu- rope. There are feven fenior and fifteen junior fellows. If no objection lies againft the eldeft of the juniors, he is elected by the provoft and fe- niors to a fenior fellowfhip. But the fevered trial of the faculties, of which we have any knowledge, attends the election of a junior fellow. He muft be examined for three days in logic, metaphyfics, mathematics, philofophy, ethics, hiftory, chrono- logy, greek, latin and hebrew, and a fourth day is dedicated to composition. There are 70 fcho- lars, among whom and the ftudents a fpirit of emulation is well fupported, and diligently at- tended to, in the public quarterly examinations. Befides the 22 fellows, there are five royal pro- feffors, viz. divinity, common law, civil law, phyfic and greek. The firfl has 700I. the fecond 460I. all the reft; iool. per annum, except the profeffor of phyfic, who has no falary. The col- lege has the patronage of nineteen church liv- ings in the province of Ulfter, in value from 300I. to 1 oool. yearly ; for feventeen of which they are indebted to the munificence of king James I. 12 VIEW OF DUBLIN. James I. to whom they efcheated by the rebellion of O'Neill*. In a few months after the arrival of James II. in Ireland, a mandamus was prefented to the heads of Trinity college, in favour of Green, who had been difappointed of a profeflbr- fhip. Yet when they fhared deeply in the public diflrefs, when their rents, as well as their pen- sions, were withheld; when they were even obliged to fell their plate to procure daily food, v/hen the royal vengeance was threatened, when they were furrounded with foldiers, they undauntedly re- fufed obedience to the mandamus. They pleaded their own caufe before Sir Richard Nagle ; they urged the incapacity of Green, and (hewed the falfity of his petition ; but above all they (hewed, that without violating their oaths, they could not •admit him. The iffue of this unequal conteft was fpeedy and decifive. The fellows and fcholars were forcibly ejected by the foldiers of a king . who had promifed to defend their privileges. The communion plate, library and furniture were feized ; the college was converted into a barrack, and the chapel into a magazine. The members obtained their liberty only by the interceflion of the bimop of Meath, on condition that three of them mould not meet together ; and while Petre was advifing the weak king to bellow the college on the Jefuits, Moore, a Roman catholic eccle- fiaftic, * Two rf thefe advowfons, Killifhandra and Killylea, were purchafed by the college. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 13 fiaftic, was nominated provoft ; and being a lover of letters, with a liberal mind, he faved the library from the ravages of the foldiery. The buildings are beautiful and very extenfive, confiding of two fpacious fquares. The area of the firft is 212 feet by 316, and was built chiefly by the munificence of parliament, who granted 42,ocol. for the purpofe. It is formed entirely of hewn (tone, ornamented with Corinthian pil- lars, and contains the refectory, hall, chapel, and theatre. The front of the theatre, which was opened in J 787, is well decorated with four Co- rinthian columns fupporting a pediment. The interior, — exclufive of a femicircular recefs 36 feet in diameter, — is 80 feet long, 40 broad and 44 high, excellently ornamented with ftucco work. In the pannels are whole length portraits of the foundrefs queen Elizabeth, the pious and exem- plary archbifhop Ufher, who was the firft ftudent admitted, and fix other eminent men, educated here, viz. archbiihop King, bifhop Berkely, Wil- liam Molyneaux, dean Swift, Doctor Baldwin and Henry Grattan. Indeed the general conduct and literary acquirements of the clergy of the eftablifhed church, compared to that of other countries, is a ftrong proof of the good difcipline of Trinity college. Oppofite to the theatre is the new chapel, which is very fpacious and lofty, and beautifully ftuccoed, with a front of four fplendid Corinthian columns, uniform with the theatre. In this, which is nearly finiflied. will be placed a beautiful *4 VIEW OF DUBLIN beautiful monument of Doctor Baldwin, by Mr. Hewetfon, a native of Ireland fettled at Rome. A large farcophagus of black and gilded marble fupports a white marble matrafs, on which the provoft is reprefented in a recumbent pofture, larger than the life, with a fcroll, reprefenting his will, by which he left his fortune, amounting to 8o,oool. to the college. There are many other figures of excellent fculpture, which do the higheft honour to the artift. The new college front was flnifhed in 1759. The following famous men alfo received their education in this College, or were at fome time members thereof: Mr. Molloy ♦Doctor Francis Stoughton Sullivan Mr. Parnell Doctor Goldfmith Mr. Southern Mr. Congreve Mr. Farquhar Doctor Huntington Doctor Bedell, Bifhop of Kil- more William Chappell, fuppofed au- thor of the Whole Duty of Man *Ambrofe Ufher, brother to the primate ♦Doctor Helfham ♦Doctor Lawfoa *John Sterne, M. D. founder of the college of phyficians *Mr. Dodwell •Doctor Delany •Doctor Thomas Leland *Dean Hamilton ♦Doctor Peter Browne, Bifhop of Cork Doctor Chandler, Bifhop of Durham Doctor Wilfon, Bifhop of Sodor and Man Charles Johnfton, author of Chryfal Mr. Dunkin Reverend Mr. Pilkington Right Hon. Edmund Burke Daniel Hayes, Efq; Thofe thus marked * had been Fellows. The VIEW OF DUBLIN. 15. Both the the theatre and the new chapel are from defigns of Sir William Chambers, who furnifhed plans for the late improvements *. The library, which was finifhed in 1732, extends the entire length of the inner fquare ; it is a double building, compofed of brick and faced with flone, with a magnificent Corinthian entab- lature, crowned with a balluftrade. It is the mod fuperb room in Europe for fuch a purpofe; being 210 feet long, 41 broad and 40 high. It is very conveniently fitted up, and contains 40,000 claffed books -f, betides about eleven hun- dred valuable MSS. in Englilh, Irifli, Latin, Greek, Hebrew, Arabic and Perfian, which are daily increafing. Many of them relate to Irifli hiftory and antiquities ; particularly to the trou- bles in 1 64 1, all the depofitions relative to which are to be found in this library, with the fettle- ment of Ireland and plantation of it by James I. The MSS. however do not relate folely to Irifli affairs. There are many Latin ones of the facred fcriptures, particularly of the New Teftament, which are of various ages, and of remote anti- quity ; fever al alfo in the Irifli character but Latin language. *In the fe:T,on of 1787 pailiament granted 12,000!. for the purpofe of building a new chape!, which fum the expences of the building have already very confidently exceeded. The architect is Mr. Graham Myers; the fimplicity and elegance of the interior part will do infinite credit to his tafte and judg- ment ; it is a great additional ornament to the Univerfny. f The learned and ingenious John Barrett,. D. D. is the prefent librarian of Trinity College. iS VIEW OF DUBLIN. fanguage. Here alfo is found the Greek MS. of the New Teftament, which belonged to Mont- fortius, and is the only book extant, which reads the contefted verfe, i Epiftle John, chap. v. verfe 7. the one at Berlin being generally denied to be genuine. Among a variety of other articles are fome old tranflations of the Bible, by Wickliffe, Pervie, Ambrofe, Ufher, &c. ; feveral on the arts and fciences, and fome old Englifh and Irifh poems, with five tracts of Doctor John Wickliffe, founder of the Reformation, in 1580*. The galleries are adorned with good buffs in white marble of Plato, Socrates, Ariftotle, Cicero, Demofthenes, Homer, Shakefpeare, Milton, Ba- con, Newton, Locke, Boyle, Parnel, Swift f, Ufher, earl of Pembroke, with thofe of Doctors Delany, Lawfon, Gilbert, Clement and Baldwin. The * MefTrs Richard Edward Mercier and Co. are bookfellers to the univerfity, and alfo to the honourable fociety of King's Inns, which has a good library of books and MSS. the prin- cipal part of which were purchafed from the family of the late judge Robinfon. The fociety was founded by act of parliament, and is limited to forty-five members, who have a houfe near the College-park in Townfhend ftreet, where they meet to dine every day in term. The oldeft member is William Henn, Efq; late one of the judges of the court of King's Bench, who was admitted in 1762. The object of this fociety is a laudable and good one : to preferve the original purity of the law, by pre- venting illiterate or improper perfons from becoming barrifters and folicitors. -j- Dean Swift was born in Hoey's-court, Dublin, on the 30th November 1667,- and died in Dublin on the 19th October »745- (Jyej, ana fuunA e/n/aai/a r/Zesr/y/// i/Ao^/eaA and LA am/? /AjA */////, reA/yr'a Ay //ire, // e /iia/r one /AnJ^ AeeAr/n //is //aj/ a A /nrecs. tfe jre, _//v Aiee/r, w&foiicA //ie ///esia a/ia '/cm//, tj/na c'aAce , ar a/ i rf'i'w //it Aiara J^a* a i e ? . a/ia/ //? //a //; y as+jAe?zj&, a/ _-Z t ,/nu ear/Ai/y ^/Ja//, *JrruA /rayz^e/ e?'er /Ae u>A/& ea^iae/u/ca/ *j//&7, ^/Jeaa JzcA/rnt mica wi/A ai/?iy t/j/ff&zm** A a ay A/, t y^^v^ fc me cAouA me //e/eaee/ie a/ c/Ae>/ty//z, ±Ja mar/ztA A/A/c em mar/a A tfuvtowr aA&e. : ij/'/ids /u/' a/A ^/)c&A an/A ///A/fid AcljA an/A J/t^es. iJn, s*€0*i£u r fJ$&>, ETERNITY*^ 6a<>/e/, t//u/- u/te yt/\>A tj/yej , an/A in/t>r?re m# y/a^A; ^s-fc.eA/tJAary, c^Aaaej , /CtMCs /tu:?^^/^^^ un/Ai a/ JpzrA> ^A/uA Aec/i; b'Aev FATE , a/A <-A'a/zt/r€- tm a /A)#nA/?. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 17 The park is well planted and extenfive, contain- ing 7 a. 2 r. 27 p. yielding much recreation to the citizens in fummer, and a variety of manly diverfions to the (tudents, whofe prefent number, exclufive of the provoft and fellows, is 761, but by reafon of the war, 200 lefs than they were five or fix years ago. On the northern fide of the park is the print- ing office *, ornamented with a good portico of the Doric order. Oppofite to which is the ana- tomy-houfe, containing the celebrated models of the human figure, executed by Monfieur De Noue at Paris, and purchafed by the earl of Shel- burne, who prefented them to the college about e 1752. * The king's printer is George Grieifon, Efq; who has a very extenfive printing-houfe in Smock-alley, which is well worth infpeclion. His relative was one of the moil learned women on record ; Mrs. Conftantia Grierfon was born in the county Kilkenny, and v/as an excellent fcholar in Greek and Roman literature ; alfo in hiftory, divinity, philofophy and ma- thematicks, though (he died at the age of 27, in the year 1733. All her attainments were by the force of her own genius, and uninterrupted application. She wrote many elegant poems, and was not only happy in a fine imagination, a great memory, an excellent undemanding and exact judgment, but all thofe were crowned by piety and virtue ; (he was too learned to be vain, and too wife to be conceited. Of her knowledge of the Latin tongue, fhe gave a ftriking proof in her dedication of the Dublin edition of Tacitus to lord Carteret, and that of Terence to his fon. When his lordfhip was lord lieutenant he obtained a pa- tent for Mr. Grierfon to be the king's printer; and to reward the uncommon merit of his wife, caufed her life to be inferted in it. 1 3 VIEW OF DUBLIN. 1752. The grand front is 350 feet in extent? ornamented with Corinthian pillars, and other decorations in excellent tafte. Over the veftibule, which is an octagon, terminated with groined arches, in the centre of this front, is the mufeum, a beautiful room 60 feet by 40, furnifhed with an excellent collection of Irifh foffils, a variety of curious and exotic natural and artificial produc- tions ; among which thofe from the newly-difco- vered iflands in the South fea, and from the North Weft coaft of North America — prefented by Doctor Patten and by Captain King — make a confpicuous figure. The old painting on the ftaircafe of the Spanifh and rebel army befieged in Kinfale, in October 1601, by lords Mountjoy and Clanrickard ; and the attempts of Don Alonzo del Campo, aided by Tyrone and O'Donnel, to raife the fiege, is well worth notice. The hiftorical fociety is an excellent inftitution, honourable to the univerfity, and productive of many national advantages ; and feven acres of ground have been taken this year 1795, near Harold's Crofs, which is now forming into a Bo- tanic garden *. His royal highnefs the duke of Gloucester is chancellor, and the earl of Clare is vice-chancellor of Trinity college. The vifitors are the chancellor, or vice-chancellor, and the archbifhop * Dr. Wade, the author of that ingenious work " Flora Dubmnif.nsis/' has been lately appointed by the Dublin So- ciety to arrange the plants, and to a<5l as their profeifor and tetf «rer in botany . VIEW OF DUBLIN, 19 archbifliop of Dublin. Learning, though often corrupted, occupies almoft all the youth, who are well brought up, and has fpread into thofe clafles which were before ignorant of it. It is to this we are indebted for the banifhment of grofs de- baucheries, and the prefervation of politenefs,- which it has been the means of producing within the prefent century. Mr. Howard having been created a Doctor of Laws by the univerfity of Dublin, it will doubt- lefs pleafe the reader to find here fome account of that benevolent man ; which we fincerely hope may promote the imitation and practice of his virtues. John Howard, Efq; a man of lingular and tranfcendent humanity, was born in London in 1726. His father was a reputable tradefman in St. Paul's Church-yard, and he was apprenticed to Mr. Nathaniel Newnham in Watling-ftreet, but having a weak conftitution, he took a lodging at Stoke Newington, where he was tenderly treat* ed by Mrs. Sarah Lardeau, a widow. He mar- ried this lady in 1752, and (he died in 1755. In the year 1756 he experienced fome of the evils which it afterwards became the bufinefs of his life to redrefs. He embarked in the Hanover packet for Lifbon, was taken by a French priva- teer, and fuffered extreme hardfhip in the packet and in France. In 1758 he married a daughter of Edward Leeds, Efq; who died in 1765 in child-bed. Mr. Howard then left his villa near Lymington, and purchafed an eftate at Carding- c 2 ton 2o VIEW OF DUBLIN. ton near Bedford. While he lived here in re- tirement, it was his meat and drink to make his neighbours happy. His neat but humble man- fion was ever hofpitable and open to deferving men. His charity had no bounds, except thofe of prudence, and was not more commendable for the extent of it, than for the manner in which it was exercifed. He gave not his bounty to countenance vice and idlenefs, but to encourage virtue and induftry. He was never inattentive to the tale of woe, and was Angularly ufeful in fur- nifbing employment for the poor of both fexes, when a fcarcity of work rendered their fituation mod compaffionable. He made it his bufinefs to vifit the abodes of affliction, and in cafes of bodily diforder acted as a phyfician as well as a friend. His kindncfs even extended to their immortal part ; for he watched over the morals of his neigh- bourhood, and ufed his advice, his admonitions s and influence, to difcountenance all immorality, to promote the practice of religion. As a mod effectual means to this great end, he erected and fupported fchools for the poof children, which he carefully fuperintended. His liberality extend- ed to neceffitous perfons of all parties, and to dif- tant places. To the village where he refided he was an univerfal bleffing, in every part of which are to be feen the plealing monuments of his tafte and munificence. In the year 1773 he was appointed high fherifF of Bedfordfhire, when his office brought the dif- tref? VIEW OF DUBLIN. 21 trefs of prifoners to his notice ; he obferved fuch abufes and fuch calamity in the county gaol, as he had before no conception of. He determined to vifit all the prifons in England ; and the farther he proceeded the more (hocking were the fcenes prefented to his view. In 1775 he enlarged his circuit by going to Wales, Scotland and Ireland, where he found the fame need of reformation. He was examined in the houfe of commons, and received their thanks. His chief object was to ftop that mocking diftemper called the jail fever, which raged dreadfully ; and alfo to reform the criminals, by making them attend divine fervice. For thefe purpofes he travelled into France, Flan- ders, Holland, Germany, Switzerland. He alfo vifited Pruflia, Auftria, Denmark, Sweden, Ruffia, Poland, Spain and Portugal. In all thefe ex- penfive and hazardous journies he denied himfelf the ufe of meat and wine ; he declined all the honours offered to him by crowned heads. To him the infpe&ion of a jail or hofpital was more grateful than all the entertainments of a palace. With what aftonifhment and gratitude he was re- ceived by their miferable inhabitants, may be eafily imagined ; for while he meditated their re- lief they partook of his bounty, and fome were liberated by it ; for he confidered all of every nation, and people, and tongue, as brethren. What wonder if fuch a man was univerfally be- loved ? He courted not the favour, nor feared the frowns of any man ; Integrity needs no defence ; Safe is the man who trufls to innocence ! but 22 VI E W OF DU BL IN. but with a manly freedom and a chriftian forti- tude, he fpoke his mind to crowned heads — par- ticularly to the late emperor of Germany — hi a manner to which they were not accuflomed. In 1777 he publifhed " The State of the Prifons in England and Wales, with an Account of fome foreign Prifons," 410. In 1773 ne t00 ^ a tmr ^ journey through Germany and Italy, and pub- lifhed fome remarks on the treatment of prifoners of war, and the hulks on the Thames. Wifhing to acquire farther knowledge, he in 1781 again travelled the continent, and publifhed a narrative of his tour, with an account of the infamous Baf- tile, happily now no more. His exertions, how- ever, were not yet at an end ; for he formed a refolution to vifit the Lazarettos of Trance and Italy, in order to obtain a knowledge of the ~beft method to flop the plague. But not gaining full information there, he proceeded to Smyrna and Conftantinople, where that dreadful diforder ac- tually prevailed, and he caught the infection, but recovered. On his return he came to Ireland, and propofed a new and important object — to in- fpect the charter fchools ; he reported what he found amifs to the houfe of commons, and it had a good effect in reforming the abufes of fome of thefe fchools. He alfo publifhed an " Account of the Lazarettos," and " the Grand Duke of Tufcany's new Code of Criminal Law." Not yet fatisfied with what he had done, he again refolved to purfue the path of duty, and to the VIEW OF DUBLIN. 23 the great concern of his friends, fet out in the fummer of 1789 to revifit RufTia, Turkey, and fome other countries of the Eaft. In this journey it pleafed God to cut off his life; for, having fpent fome time in Cherfon, a new fettlement of the Emprefs of Ruffia, in the mouth of the Bo- ryfthenes, on the black fea ; on vifiting a young lady in the fame diforder, he took a malignant fever, which carried him off on the 20th of Ja- nuary 1790. According to his own exprefs de- fire, he was in five days after buried in the garden of a villa belonging to a French gentleman who had treated him with great kindnefs. Mr. Howard like a modeft, unambitious man, refufed number- lefs honours when living; but a ftatue, by Bacon, was erected in 1796 to his memory in St. Paul's church, London. For him Mr. Cowper wrote •:he following excellent lines : " Patron of elfe the molt defpis'd of men, Accept the tribute of a Granger's pen ; I may alarm thee, but I fear the fhame, I mud incur, forgetting Howard's name. Blefl with all wealth can give thee, to refign Joys doubly fweet to feelings quick as thine ; To quit the blifs thy rural fcenes bellow, To feek a nobler amidft fcenes of woe ; To traverfe feas, range kingdoms, and bring home Not the proud monuments of Greece and Rome, But knowledge, fuch as only dungeons teach, And only fympathy like thine could reach ; Speaks a divine ambition, and a zeal The boldeft patriot might be proud to feel." Epitaphs 24 VIEW OF DUBLIN. Epitaphs found in Trinity College. P. M. S. KATAPA ESTI MH AITO0A NEIN Dixit Epi&etus, credidit JoHANNts Sterne M. & J. U. D. CoJlegii SS indi<. Trinitatis Dublin Socius Senior Collegii, Medicorum ibidem Prasfes primus ; Qui natus Fuit Ardbracbas, 26 Novembris, 1624. Denatus fuit, Dublin, 18 Novembris 1669. Cujus Ofra. On a monument in AntechapeL P. M. S. Reverendi admodum viri Georgii Browne, S. T. P. Alumni Socii et tandem Prspofiti hujus Collegii, Qui rem literariam ingenio, diligentia, aliorum inftitutionc Per triginta annpjum fpatium promovit jEdes has dimidia {ua parte aucliores amplificavit : pecuniS Partim a regni Ordinibus impetrata, partim fuo ipfius Teftaraento legata, quod feliciter inchoavit, alteti Perficiendum Reliquit. Qui charitate in pauperts, ftudio in bene meritos, Benignitate erga omnes, tantum profecit, Ut folus etiam inter bonos, optimi Praefidis partes Implevifl'e videretur. Quern vivum viventes colebant, mortuum mirabuntur poflen, Monumentum hoc publicis Collegii fumptibus extru&um Prsepofitus et Socii Seniores poni curavere. OBIIT Quinquagenarius die quarto Junii, Dominica Trinitatis Anno Domir.'" 1699 On VIEW OF DUBLIN. 25 On Dr. Luke Chaloner's monument in Ante- chapel. Conditur hoc tumulo, Chaloneri trifte cadaver Cujus ope et precious, conditur ifta domus. Thus paraphrafed by a Wag : Under this ftaircafe, lies Chaloner's fad carcafe, By whofe prayers and intreaties, this houfe now fo great is. Saint Patrick's college at Maynooth, in the county of Kildare, initituted by an acl of parlia- ment, was opened for ftudents in October 1795, and inaugurated on the firft of November follow- ing. For this purpofe, the duke of L-jinfter, with a very liberal and expanded mind, granted to the Roman catholics a leafe for ever of fixty acres of ground, where they are now erecting a college. Truftees are appointed to receive dona- tions, and to purchafe lands, not exceeding ioool. per annum. The truitee^ appointed by the act are The Lord Chancellor, Moft Rev. J. T. Troy, D. D. Ld. Chief Juftice King's Bench, Thomas Bray, D. D. Ld. Chief Juftice Com. Pleas, ■ Boetius Egan, D. D. Ld. Chief Baron of Exchequer, Rt. Rev. P. J. PJunket, D. D. Arthur James, Earl of Fingall, P. Mac Devett, D. D. jenico, Vifcount Gonnanftown, Fras. Moylan, D. D. Sir Edward Bellew, Bart. Ger. Teaghan, D. D. Richard Strange, Efq; Dan Delany, D. D. Sir Thomas French, Bart. Edm. French, D. D. Moft Rev. R. O'Reilly, D. D. Rev. Thomas Huffey, D. D. Secretary to the board of truftees, Rev. Andrew Dunn, D. D. Agent, Robert Marlhall, Efq; The 26.. VIEW OF DUBLIN. The actual flate of the Roman catholic college % as mud be naturally expected from the very re- cent date of its exiftence, and from the want of accommodation in any degree proportioned to its object, is neceflarily confined for the prefent year to a courfe of fludies, adapted to the circum- flances of the fmall number of fcholars admitted on the foundation — This courfe is now under the direction of the following matters and profefTors : Rev. Thomas Hurley, D. D. prefident. Rev. Francis Power, D. D. vice-prefident. Professors. Rev. M. Aherne, D. D. of Moral Theology, Rev. Peter J. Delort, A. M. L. L. D. of Ma- thematicks and Philofophy, Rev. John Euftace, A. M. of Eloquence and Belles Letters, James Bernard Clinch, A. M. M. R. I. A. of Humanity. * His excellency earl Camden went to Maynooth, 26th of April 1796, to found the new college, extending 400 feet, and intended for 200 ftudents. He was addreffed by the profeflbrs and Itudents in Greek, Latin and Engli/h ; from whence the following lines : O Camden .' — Patron of our youth, 'Tis thine to raife this ufeful pile, Sacred to virtue, order, truth, And hope — long banifh'd from our ifle. Here, ever new, in future days, Thy better glories (hall defcend, And minds too young to lavifii praife, Shall hail thee Founder — Father — Friend ! CHAPTER VIEW OF DUBLIN. 27 CHAPTER II. Stephen's Green College Green> Coinage of 'James II. — Phoenix Park — Knights Templars — Grand Canal — Great Advantages of it — Royal Canal — Aqueducl — Docks at Ring fend — South Wall Light Houfe Late Improvements of Dublin — Sackvillc-Jlreet — Duke of Rutland — Aclive Magifirates Sir John Blaquiere Parliament Houfe — Parliament fat in £>ueen- fireet — Courts of Juflice. JVIeRCER's hofpital ftands on the fite of St. Stephen's church*, whofe parifh is now united to * This extenfive and good inlHtution was founded in 1734* by Mrs. Mary Mercer, and contains fixty-two beds. It was in- corporated in 1750, and is fupported by fubfcription. Here is a fchool for teaching anatomy and furgery, under the direction of five profeffors, Melfrs Hartigan, Lawlefs, Deafe, Creigliton, Archer ; and lectures regularly delivered on thefe fubjects, from November until May. The mufeum is worth notice, and con- tains two fmall Egyptian mummies, brought over by Mr. Whaley, who got them near JerufJem ; a child with one body and one heart, four arms and four legs ; another double child, and 28 VIEW OF DUBLIN. to Bride's. From that church it is imagined Stephen's Green had its name, which is one of the largeft fquares in Europe, being very nearly an Englifh mile round. It was walled and planted with a double row of trees in 1670, between which is a gravel walk kept in excellent repair. It is very well watered and, including the walks, contains 17 acres, 1 perches. In the centre is an equeftrian ftatue of George II. by Van Noft, and a flat piece of meadow, which is extremely rural and pleafant in fummer, and is the property of the lord mayor. Harcourt-ftreet, which con- tains the fpacious town refidence of lord Clon- mell, York-flreet, Leefon-flreet and Baggot-flreet, which are all new ftreets, add very much to the public convenience of Stephen's Green. In the centre of College Green is an equeftrian ftatue * in and a double cat, preferved in fpirits of wine ; with feveral na- tural curiofities, and curious furgical infiruments. In the lec- ture-room are fome good anatomical drawings. For the (late of this hofpital, fee the Rev. Gilbert Aultin's fermon, preached At St. Anne's church, and publiihed by Chambers. * The ftatue was erected by the city of Dublin. It was be- pun in the year 1700, when Sir Anthony Pery was lord mayor* and finimed in 1701, Sir Mark Rainsford lord mayor, John Eccles, Ralph Gore, fherifFs ; and was opened with great fo- Jemnity on the firft of July 1701, being the anniverfary of ihs 'jiclory obtained at the Boyne, with this infcription, GUL1ELMO Tertio j Magns Britannia?, Francias et Hibernia?, Regi, Ob Religionftn Confervatam, Reftitutas Leges, Libertatem Afiertam, Gives Dublinienfis hanc flatuam pcfuere. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 29 in brafs of William III. the parliament-houfe on the north tide, the port-office on the fouth, and the grand weft front of the college on the eaft, render it the moft beautiful pyramidal Iquare in Europe. King Charles II. firft honoured the chief ma- giflrate with the title of lord mayor ; and it is a very remarkable tranfaction in the hiftory of Dublin, that James II. having affembled his par- liament there, repealed the acts of Settlement, and paffed a bill of proscription, but he foon after loft his crown. In the year 1689, brafs and copper of the bafeft kind, old cannon, broken bells, kitchen utenfils, were eagerly collected ; and from every pound weight of fuch vile materials, valued at 4d. pieces were coined and circulated to the amount of five pounds in nominal value. They were called crowns, half crowns, and mil- lings, and they were obtruded on the public with circumftances of infolence and cruelty. The va- lue of the bafe coin thus ilfued, was one million fix hundred thoufand pounds. Woods afterwards got a patent for coining copper money, which was violently attacked by dean Swift ; but Woods's metal was of a purer kind than that of king James. The Phoenix park is a noble one, alloted to the ufe of the viceroy and his fecretaries, being feven miles in circumference. It is as large as Dublin, and contiguous to it ; having feveral good pieces of water, and diverfied with gently rifmg 30 VIEW OF DUBLIN. rifing prominences, woodland, and well improved fields. Kilmainham hofpital was a part of it, where the knights templars, or knights of St* John of Jerufalem, had a houfe, to whom the park belonged. The earl of Chefterfield, in the year 1747, erected a Corinthian fluted pillar near the centre, with a phoenix on the top. The cir- cular road, which was finifhed in 1780, is a con- siderable ornament to the city, and fuch as no other in Europe can boafr. of. This and the park mud add greatly to the recreation and health of the citizens ; yet they are both forfaken for the banks of the canal, which appear like a beautiful avenue lined with trees, enlivened with boats and company paffing and repairing. The formation of canals, which had been brought to perfection in France in the reign of Lewis XIV. and long fmce in England, was fcarcely known in Ireland until the year 1765, when the grand canal was begun by a company of enterprifmg men, who were incorporated in 1772 by an acl of parliament. The fums of mo- ney required for this work were enormous, and the difficulties to be furmounted fo aftoniiriing, that the national purfe was for fome time clofed, and their (lock fell to 30 per cent. But fuch was the fortitude and perfevering induftry of the un- dertakers, that boats began to ply to Sallins in 1783, to Athy in 1791, which, although but 32 miles by land, is 42 by water from Dublin. The paffage in the ftate cabin only feven Britifh (hil- lings. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 31 lings. The canal is proceeding rapidly to Carlow, and by the unwearied diligence and public fpirit of the prefent directors, in five fliort months of the year 1795 they have made it twice as perfect as it was made in 12 years, with an expenditure of nearly three hundred thoufand pounds. It is a cheap and pleafant mode of travelling, at the rate of 3^ miles an hour. The revenue of ft is very considerable, and their (lock, which fold for 130 before the war, now fells for 104 per cent. Mr. Griffith and Mr. Macartney were great pro- moters of this work. MefTieurs Evans, Jeflop and Chapman were the engineers. The former of whom has evinced great (kill, zeal and integrity in a molt arduous undertaking. The grand canal is now carrying on to Philip- town, Banagher and Birr. When fmifhed, it will open a communication with the populous city of Limerick, and be attended with numerous and great advantages to the country. In time of war, Limerick has been found a very convenient port for the Eafi: Indiamen, as in that courfe they efcape the enemy's cruizers ; and their valuable cargoes might be fent by the canal to Dublin, and from thence to Liverpool, with fafety and expedition. From the firfr, lock of the grand canal at Kil- mainham, a cut has been made to the river Liffey at Ringfend, extending three miles, having twelve neat bridges to accommodate the different roads to Dublin y that at Baggot-flreet, called Macart- ney- 32 VIEW OF DUBLIN. ney-bridge, is deemed an elegant ftructure. At the feventh lock on this line, the great bafons and docks commence, for which and the north docks, parliament granted 45,0001. in the year 1791. Thefe works, when finifhed, will be the nobleft of the kind in Europe, and will coll above ioojoool. of which fum parliament will pay one- third. They include a fpace of 35 acres of ground, of which 26 acres will be covered with water, fixteen feet deep. The reft of the ground will be occupied by three large fea locks, to admit fhips from the river ; three extenfive graving docks, ftores and wharfs from 70 to 84 feet wide. The great bafon * is 4000 feet long, and 330 feet average breadth, capable of containing 400 fail of fquare rigged veifels, which is equal in ex- tent to the whole of the admired docks at Li- verpool. The upper bafon is 2000 feet long. The engineer is Mr. JefTop, who comes from England yearly to give plans and directions. Mr. Edward Chapman is the executive engineer. Mefirs Cowan, Gamble and Kirkwood are con- tractors for the graving docks ; Mr. Stephens for the * April 23, 1796, the great bafon was opened at high tide; when his excellency earl Camden in the Dorfet yacht, com- manded by Sir A. Schomberg, with a number of barges from ihe canal, cutters and boats highly decorated were admitted under adifcharge of twenty-one pieces of cannon, and had room to fail in various directions. There were fixty thoufand people prefent ; it was the bed aquatick fete ever feen in this king- dom. John Macartney Efq; addrefTed his excellency, and wa* knighted. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 33 the {hip locks ; Meflrs Bergan and Hayes for the bafon walls. The royal canal is another proof of national fpirit and national induflry. The fubfcribers were incorporated in 1789; it is now nnilhed to Kilcock, 14 miles, and is proceeding rapidly to Kinnegad. There has been upwards of 250,0001. expended on it, of which fum 66,oocl. were contributed by parliament. The excurfion to Lucan and Leixlip, on the banks of the river LifFey, is romantic and beautiful, where the va- riegated profpects have a bold and happy effect. Near Leixlip is the fined aqueduct in Europe, built by the royal canal company. It is 100 feet high, erected on a bridge over the river Rye, which is 30 feet wide and 30 feet high. The company has expended very near 30,000!. on this aqueduct. The ride from thence to town, on the canal bank, commands a molt extenfive view of the bay and furrounding country. On Sunday the 20th of December 1795, the firft excurfion was made in a barge to Kilcock, with the duke of Leinfter and marquis of Kildare, amidft the ac- clamations of the people, whofe joy was very ar- dently expreffed. Dublin would be a commodious ftation for fhipping, were it nor. for two fand banks, called the North and South Bulls, which prevent large veflels from crofiing the bar. The harbour, how- ever, was greatly improved by a prodigious work on the fouth fide of the river, called the South d Wall ; 34 VIEW OF DUBLIN. Wall ; which was begun in 1748, and finifhed in feven years. It extends from the point of Ringf- end into the bay, 17,754 feet, or about three miles, viz. from the king's watch-houfe to the block-houfe, 7,938 feet, and from thence to the light-houfe, at the extremity of the wall, is 9,816 feet. It is formed of large blocks of mountain granite, flrongly cemented, and flrengthened with iron cramps. The breadth of the road to the block-houfe is near 40 feet, and from thence to the light-houfe 32 feet at bottom, but narrows to 28 feet at top ; the whole rifing five feet above high water. A new bafon has been formed at the block-houfe, of an oblong fhape, which is 900 feet long, and 450 broad. The wall, or landing place, will be 200 feet broad, on which there will be ten convenient wharfs. The light-houfe was begun June 21, 1762, un- der confiderable difficulties, from the depth of the water, from .the power of the winds in fuch an expofed fituation, and from the raging of the feas. Thefe however were overcome by the mafterly {kill of Mr. Smyth, the architect ; who colle&ed vaft rocks, and depofited them in a huge caifToon cr cheft, which was funk to the bed of the fea, and afterwards guarded with a buttrefs. of folid mafonry, twenty-five feet broad at th^ bafe. On this the ingenious architect raifed a beautiful cir- cular ftru&ure, three ftories high, furrounded by an octagonal lantern of eight windows. It is compofed of white hewn granite, firmly temented, gradually VIEW OF DUBLIN. 35 gradually tapering to the fummit, and each (lory ftrengthened with (lone arch-woric; A (tone ftaircafe, with an iron balluftrade, winds round the building to the fecond ftory, where an iron gallery furrounds the whole. The lantern is Tup- plied with large oil lamps, whofe light is power- fully encreafed by reflecting lenfes. The mode of lighting has been greatly improved, and fmce the year 1768, when it was finifhed, it has rvoved of mod material fervice to the (hipping referring to Dublin* It remained for the prefent enlightened age to complete fuch laborious works, to the improve- ment of our commerce, the vaft advantage and convenience of our manufactures, and the em- ployment of fo many thoufands of our poor. It was not until the .year 1768, even in London, that the projecting figns and penthoufes were re- moved, the ftreets flagged, and the houfes num bered, an- invention fo necelfary in a large city. The fame regulation was effected in Dublin, by an act of parliament, in 1774, and another act in 1785, for better paving, lighting and cleanfing the city, oy which an additional number of globes with double burners were erected. Thefe neceflary improvements contribute exceedingly to the beauty and convenience of the metropolis. Dublin has emerged very rapidly indeed from its confined fituation ; the building of Parliament- Itreet, and the widening the new buildings of Dame-ftreet, which was a wretched narrow one, d 2 have J 6 VIEW OF DUBLIN. have added much to public convenience. But the grand improvement was made in the year 1795, in Sackville-ftreet, which is 120 feet wide, and the boaft of the city, being terminated to the north by the rotunda and public rooms. The continuation of this ftreet to Carlifle-bridge, and the opening from thence to Stephen's-green, is a work of the utmofl utility, uniting the eaftern parts of the town, which were divided by the river. The city is extremely well watered, not only by the Liffey, but by pipes in every ftreet. The bafon was made in 1670*, is fituated near the grand canal harbour, and is fupplied by a river of foft good water, running under the canal. In the duke of Rutland's time, who died in Dub- lin, October 24, 1787, moft defervedly lament- ed — the fountains were erected ; which are fo ufeful and ornamental to the city, which contri- bute fo much to the cleanlinefs and health of the poor, who were formerly obliged to purchafe wa- ter at the huxter's pipe f . But after all we have faid * At the eaftern end of St. Catherine's church there is a neat mural monument of white marble, to the memory of William Mylne of London, architect, who died in 1790; by whofe flcill and integrity the water- works of Dublin were enlarged, and eftablifhed on a perfect plan. -j- To the humanity and tafte of Sir John Blaquiere the city of Dublin is chiefly indebted for the ereclion of conduits and fountains in various parts of the city. The following lines were written as a motto for the fountain in Merrion-fquare, which is embellifhed with fome excellent fculpture in bafib re- lievo, and bufts of the duke and dutchefs of Rutland : Sad for her lofs ; — Hibernia weeps to raife This mournful record to her Rutland's praife 1 VIEW OF DUBLIN. 37 faid of the improvements of Dublin, and not- withftanding the aft patted in 1785 for improving the police, much remains to be done by a vigilant and active magiftracy, who, it is hoped, will ever labour to deferve the efleem and confidence of their fellow citizens, by fetting their faces againft every fpecies of peculation and mifconduct in the contractors, and in thofe who handle the public money ; and ftudy to approach nearer to London, whofe lamps, whofe pavements, and police are the boaft and pride of its inhabitants. The limits of this work will not permit us to defcribe all the public buildings ; we can only mention fuch as are moil deferving of notice. The parliament-houfe was ten years building, and was finished in 1738, at the expence of 42,000!. It is formed of Portland-done, having in front a portico of Ionic columns, in the molt perfect flate of architectural harmony. The internal parts cor- refpond with its outward magnificence, and were much improved by the tafte of the prefent fpeaker, Mr. Fofter ; a great part having been confumed by fire, February 27, 1792. Suitable eaftern and weftern fronts are erecting from a defign of Mr. Gandon's, which, when finifhed, will form a fuit of buildings not to be equalled for convenience and elegance. The coft will be more than that of the original building ; but why mould expence be confidered in fuch national works, when the money circulates in the king- dom, and returns in various channels to the pockets 3$ VIEW OF DUBLIN. pockets from whence it came. In the year 1729, when the foundation of this houfe was laid, the parliament fat at the blue-coat hofpital in Queen- ftreet, and a fruitlefs attempt was then made to obtain the fupplies for twenty-one years ; which, had it fucceeded, would have rendered their meeting ufelefs during that period, for any pur- pofes of government. Yet, fuch was the influ- ence of miniiters, and the prevalence of corrup- tion, that the attempt was defeated but by a ma- jority of one. The courts of jufiice in Chrift-church-lane were rebuilt in 1693, but tne Situation and accefs to them being extremely crouded and inconvenient, the duke of Rutland laid the foundation of the new four courts on the Inn's-quay on the 13th of March 1786. The courts and fuite of public offices form one grand pile of excellent architec- ture, the fituation of which being highly favour- able, has a fine effect when viewed from the op- pofite fide of the river. The extent of the build- ing is 433 feet ; the wings being 99 feet long by 50 in depth. On the weftern fide are the roll's office, the hamper, king's bench, and remem- brancer's offices. Gn the eaftern fide are the offices of the court of exchequer*. The princi- pal front is compofed of fix columns of the Co- rinthian order ; the feveral courts within radiate from a large circular hall, 64 feet diameter. Ad- joining * It is worthy of remark, that in the reign cf Edward III. the courts of common pleas and exchequer were held at Carlow. VIEW OF DUBLIN. 39 joining thefe are the judges* apartments, jury- rooms, &c. Mr. Gandon, the architect, formed the defign, and fuperintends the building*. When finifhed, it will be a further proof of the ingenuity and great fkill of this gentleman in his profef- fion. * On the 5th of June 1795, the royal a/Tent was given to an aft for eftabliihing the new courts of juftice, and new feflions- houfe, and conftituting the fame to be within the county of the city of Dublin, and county of Dublin. CHAPTER 40 VIEW OF DUBLIN. gM— I — ■ — CHAPTER III. Barracks — Kilmainham Hofpital — i?uercifolia — Ge- ranium Cordifolium — Orangery — Peach-houfe — Vinery — Hull of a Ship — Geranium Zonale- — Jaf~ minum Azoricum — Borejfus Flabellifer — Phoenix Daclyliflcra — Bromelia tribe — Ginger — Annona Squamofa — Arabian Coffee — Rofe of China — Myrtus pimanta — PaJJiflora quadrangularis — Tokay Grapes — fafminum Grandiforum — Gera- nium Hermanifolia — The Poet's Neflar — Francis Sandys — Turkijh Tent — Flower Garden — Mi- chael Pennick — Dunran — Extenfive and charm- ing View. .1 HE green-houfes and hot-houfes now claim- ed our attention. From Mrs. La Touche's dref- fing-room — containing many very good portraits and paintings — defigned and furnifhed with fkil- ful tafte and elegance, we entered a beautiful confervatory, palling on the right hand a richly ornamented little bath room. The confervatory is 104 TOUR TO EELLEVUE. is two hundred and fixty-four feet in length, with a handfome walk in the middle. On each fide of this delightful walk is planted a furprizing variety of rare exotic plants, natives of Afia, Africa and America. Above the border, on the fouth fide ? is a flue for warming the houfe in winter, the en- tire length of which is covered with rare plants in pots, which forms the toute enfemble, and clothes the whole with unequaled tafte and neat- nefs. Travellers agree nem. con. in faying, that it far fupaffes in health and vigour any group of foreign plants to be found in Ireland *. The de- scription of Mr. Darwin, the ingenious author of " The Botanic Garden," is well applied here. " Obedient fails from realms unfurrow'd bring, For her the unnam'd progeny of fpring ; Attendant nymphs her dulcet mandates hear, And nurfe in foflering arms the tender year, Plant the young bulb, inhume the living feed, Prop the weak (lem, the erring tendril lead, Qr fan in glafs-built frames the ftranger flowers, With milder gales, or fleep with warmer fhowers; In one bright point admiring nature eyes The fruits and foliage of difcordant ikies !" The apparatus of glafs-work — of which we have given an engraved view — coil above three thou- fand pounds, and we were not a little furprized when we were informed it is only ten years fince this * Much cf the fouthern part of Africa is jet unexplored by botanills. Many new and rare plants have been lately fent to the king's gardens at Kew, by Mr. MafTon, who has been ap- pointed by government to go out and fearch for them. Such i? the love of fciencc in the reign of George III. -PS V TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 105 this amazing \vo?k was commenced, and the out- line nearly finifhed by a Mr. Shanley, a native of Ireland, and an ingenious honed man, defervedly efleemed for his good natural talents, whofe death was a public lofs. To enumerate all the plants in the Bellevue collection would not only be attended with great labour, but probably appear prolix and unentertaining to thofe who are not lovers of botany. We fhall therefore only remark fuch as are very curious for their fize, for their rarity, or for their quick growth. A plant of the Ceratonia Siliqua Edules Carob, or locuft tree, which covers twenty feet of wall ; remarkable for being the fruit on which St. John was providentially fed in the wildernefs ; a gera- nium otto of rofes, fixteen feet ditto ; a Myriacas Quercifolia, or oak leaved, candle berried myrtle, ten feet ditto; Fuchfia Coccinea, fcarlet flowered, fixteen feet ditto ; a Geranium Cordifolium, or heart-leaved crane's bill, twenty-four feet ditto ; with many others, which have certainly grown prodigioufly in fuch a fhort fpace of time. A fu- perb orangery next offered its blooming fruit to our view. It is erected in a fquare form, planted in 1789, with orange trees in the centre. The northern part covered with fig trees and cherries in the angles, intermixed with many curious plants in pots ; and in a border on the fouth eafl and weftern fides are mignionettcs, fweet peas and lupins, in bloom in the month of March ; even mignionette all the year.. For thefe annuals, al- though So6 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. though hardy, are very difficult to force, and in general thought unmanageable at thefe feafons. A walk three feet broad led us to an extenfive and lofty peach-houfe, in full bearing, fixty feet in length, and eighteen in breadth ; the flues of which are alfo covered with uncommon and cu- rious exotic plants in pots, and fome rare tropical plants raifed from feeds this year. We walked through this luxurious and fertile houfe, on a painted walk, to a fplendid vinery, well (locked with fifteen forts cf choice grapes. This lin- gular houfe contains three crops of grapes, fome bunches of which are twenty-feven inches in length ; one trained horizontally, another ob- liquely and alcove-ways, which is the principal crop. The vinery is forty-two feet in length and twenty-four in breadth ; the back in the highefl part twenty feet. In this houfe is a large cittern, which collects, for the ufe of the plants, all the water falling from the roof j an ufeful and good contrivance. Adjoining to this vinery is a grand conferva- tory of an oval form, nearly forty feet long, twenty-four broad and twenty in heighth. The fhell altogether has much the refemblance of the hull of a large fhip ; the fouthern and north ends being higher than the middle. The roof and fides are glazed and finifhed at a very confidera- ble expence. The north end of this houfe is co- vered with the Geranium Zonale, or zone-marked crane's bill, at prefent (Auguft 1795) eighteen feet TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 107 feet high. Jafminum Azoricum, twenty feet ditto, interfperfed with the beautiful Indian climber. Dolicha;; Lignofus intermingled with other foreign plants. In the middle is a large clump of African and American evergreens ; the Jafminum Azoricum, or azorian jafmine in parti- cular, is very large, covering a fpace of forty yards, hanging in feftoons, mixed with the Jaf- minum OdoratilTimum ; Malva Capenfis, or cape mallow ; Rhus Fomentofum", or downy-leaved fumach ; Rhus Lucidum, or mining-leaved fu- mach ; and Geranium Cucullatum, or hollow leaved crane's bill. This laft plant is now fix- teen feet high, and its (tern meafures eighteen inches in circumference. A fine plant of the Bo- raflus Flabellifer, or fan-leaved palm. Ditto of the Phcenix Dactylifera, or date-bearing palm, with frondofe, pinnated, branched leaves. The male plants producing male flowers only, and the female date tree producing female flowers and fruit, when impregnated by the male. Leaving this richly perfumed green-houfe, we entered a pinery, containing two tan beds well ftored with the choked of the Bromelia tribe, and heated by two fires; the flues and vacant fpots of which are covered with plants, natives of the hot regions of Afia, Africa and America ; a few names of the mod ufeful for domeftic pur- pofes we mail fubjoin. The Amomum Zingiber, or ginger ; Annona Squamofa, or cuftard apple ; a fine large plant in fruit of the CofTea Arabica, or Arabian io8 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. Arabian coffee ; a large plant of the true Cayenne pepper ; the Hibifcus Rofa Sinenfis, or rofe of China, fix feet high ; Myrtus Pimenta, or All- fpice tree, fix feet ; the PaflifloraQuadranguleris*, which bears the pafTion-flower, and alfo produces an excellent eatable fruit, fhaped like a large melon ; the flove of this pinery is of the fame di- menfions of the grapery before defcribed. Join- ing this is a neat little vinery, the grapes of which are of the Tokay and black Hamburgh kinds, ex- tremely large and prolific. The vacant places of this houfe are alfo covered with curious and rare plants. One of the Jafminum Grandiflorum covers the back wall, and a large plant of the Geranium Hermanifolia covers twelve feet of glafs at one iide ; the vines being trained over them within fixteen inches of the glafs. A luxurious peach-houfe next prefented itfelf to our view ; but really we are apprehenfive that by this time fome of our readers have been fet longing for the rich fruits we have tailed, and have attempted to defcribe. Wherever hofpita- lity and politenefs reign, it is the poet's happy privilege not only to fip the nec~tarious beverage, but to tafte the fruits of the earth ; and here they grow in fuch perfection, he envied not the princes of Circama, the nabobs of India, or the rich mer- chants * The flower of this plant .exhibits the inftruments of our Saviour's paffion — from whence it had its fpecific name— and is fucceeded by its fine melon-fhaped fruit, the pulp of which is famed for its pleafing and grateful flavor— it flowered at F>cile- ?ue at Chriftmas laft. TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 109 chants at the Cape of Good Hope. This peach- houfe is fixty feet in length and eighteen broad, heated by two fires when wanted early in the fea- fon. The flues are allb clothed with rare exotics, and the trees on this day (9th Augufl) laden with abundance of ripe fruit of large fize. The next is a good cherry-houfe, which produces an- nually extraordinary crops of fruit, agreeing with the orangery in fize and form, which terminates this aftonifhing and uncommonly uniform range of glafs work. A ferpentine gravel walk on the left brought us to the Turkiih tent, a much ad- mired piece of architecture, erected in 1793 by the ingenious Francis Sandys ; another walk on the right led us into a flower garden, blooming in all the modeft pride of unaffected beauty, which cannot be better defcribed than in the language of the poet : " Hiiher emerging from yon orient fkies, Botanic Goddess ! bend thy radiant eyes ; O'er thefe (oft fcenes afTiime thy gentle reign, Pomona, Ceres, Flora in thy train ; In noon's bright blaze thy vermil veft unfold And wave thy emerald banner ftar'd with gold." Thus fpoke the Genius, as he ltept along, And bade thefe lawns to Peace and Truth belong ; Down the fteep Hopes he led with modeft Ikill The willing pathway, and the truant rill, Rais'd the young woodland, fmooth'd the wavy green, And gave to Beauty all the quiet fcene." We were now led to another flower garden, which, with the one we parted, was filled with rare lio TOUR TO BELLEVUE. rare flowers difpofed in a novel and fanciful ftile* Here are two fmall forcing-houfes *, on an im- proved and good plan for ripening early fruits and blowing early flowers. They are heated by one fire only, on a truly economical plan, which is deferring of imitation. In this happy ifle in the dark days at Chriftmas, may be found the blufhing rofe and the carnation in full bloom, the lufcious pine apple in fruit, and in the different ftages of its growth ; the peach and the grape are alfo found here very early. After viewing thefe various works, arifmg from the inspiration of the Almighty, on the mind of man, we will be na- turally led to exclaim with Job, " He fetteth an " end to darknefs, and fearcheth out all perfec- Ci tion. He putteth forth his hand on the rock ; " he overturneth mountains by the roots. He " cutteth out rivers among the rocks ; and His " eye feeth every precious thing." The kitchen garden is divided by a good brick wall, well furnifhed with every article of culinary ufe, or of elegance in the defert, and replete with every requifite appendage for bringing it to per- fection. From hence we could fee the boundlefs ocean over the garden wall of fourteen feet ; and the * Thefe forcing houfes were erected in the years 1 791 and 1792 by Mr. Michael Pen nick, the gardener, to whom the author is indebted for much interefting and ufeful information. Btllevue is a (Inking proof that he is ingenious, laborious and extremefy ikilful in his profefTron. He alfo has a natural tafle for poetry, having published fome good defcriptions of Bellevue in the Hibernian Magazine for June 1794 — for October 1794 — 1 and for May 1795. TOUR TO BELLEVUE. Ill the eye darts over a cheerful landfcape to the eaft- ward. Having finifhed this agreeable courfe of botany and gardening, we went by a gravel walk to the oclagon building * and gothic rooms ; where there is an extenfive view of the Scalp, the Sugar-loaf hills, Dromin, Howth, Dalkey, Lam- bay, Dunrant, and Kindleftown hill, at the foot of which is an old caftle, almoft demolifhed in Cromwell's time. We now palfed by a gravel walk, on the fummit of the noted hill over the Glen of the Downs, until we again arrived at the Turkifh tent, which marks the refined tafte of the owner. From hence is feen a ruftic habitation, which gives the fcene a natural character. It is formed of flumps and roots of wood, thatched with heath, and Gothic arches in front, with an extenfive view of the Glen of the Downs. Vain would be the attempt of the mod fertile imagi- nation to difplay by defcription the variegated fcenery and enchanting profpecl: which this fpot commands. The foft and rude touches of nature are * The oftagon building was erected in 1766 by Fncch John- fon. The Goihic dining-room — which is extremely curious, and feems like a rock, was added in the year 178S, by Francis Sandys, who was an excellent architect. The delign and execution of his various works will remain a lading honour to his name and to his oountry. He was a native of Ireland, and died at Bellevue on the 15th of July 1785. f Dunran is a romantic, woody, rocky tract of ground, much admired by travellers — it belongs to General Cunning- ham, two miles from his feat at Mount Kennedy- 112 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. are fo finely blended, that the eye alone can de- lineate them ; and in an inftant we behold moun- tains, hills, villages, vallies, meadows, promon- tories, rivers, winding ftreams, and the ocean. Emblem of life ! — where waves on waves arife, While hope looks up, and views ferener ikies ; Where dill the troublous fea inceflant roars, And (till hope flatters, as we eye the mores ! CHAP TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 113 CHAPTER IX. Peter La Touch? — Glen of the Downs — Macbeth — Gold Mine — Copper — Alum — Saltpetre — Em- ploying the Poor — Giandeloch — Samuel Hayes — Man ofRofs — County Wicklow — Earl Fitz William Shillela — Mr. Taylor's Hymn to the Deity — Eulogy on Poetry — Camp — Brien Boru — Military Ardour — Militia of Ireland — Profane curfing — Rochejiown — Stillorgan — Donnybrook — Mary Anne Cox. C5 O many circumftances lend their aid to embel- lifh Bellevue and its vicinity, that we fcruple not to pronounce it one of the bed excurfions near the capital > but it retires from the view, and its unobtrufive charms are therefore feldom feen *. 1 The * The prefent poffeffor of Bellevue had a confiderable fhare in planting and improving the demefne. To have a tafie for rural affairs, a-nd to employ a portion of our time on them, leaves a condant fatisfa<5tion on the mind ; while fafhionable midnight amufements enervate oui bodies and injure our health. Mr. Peter La Touche expended upwards of 30,000! on the eftablifhment 114 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. The lovely qualities of unafluming merit are only carnally noticed, while fcenes lefs captivating force attention by a bold difplay ; thefe, like mo- defty, fhun the public eye, and are only vifited by the difcerning view. Whether we regard the beauty of the refpective fituations, or the graces of nature, improved by the chafteft defigns of art, they equally demand our attention, and excite our warmefl approbation. When viewing the neighbourhood and the decent peafantry, we are ready to exclaim with the poet, There flretch the ample profpecls wide, The fea, the mountains, vales appear ; The tempting walk, the grateful ride, Invite through all the varied year ! Or there, or no where can be found Health ever rofy, ever gay ; Content there tills his narrow ground, And lings the toils of life away ! We now purfued our journey through the deep Glen of the Downs, the moft romantic and pichirefque road in the vicinity of Dublin. It runs between two ridges of mountains, which fhelve down in various graceful fhapes. The fur- rounding fcenery is uncommonly delightful, hav- ing an Alpine wildnefs and magnificence ; the lofty mountains moftly clothed to the fummit, under whofe fpontaneous woods we travelled a mile, eirablifhment of extendve iron works at Lough Allen, and it mull pleafe every friend of Ireland to find he has fucceeded fo far, that they produce at this time more iron than is fufficient to fupply the neighbouring country. TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 115 mile, the gray rocks peeping out in various places, and forming a good contrail:. The vale is no wider than to admit the road, near which a fmall river meanders. The fwelling verdant promi- nences of an immenfe conical mountain add to the beauty of the fcene ; while the o&agon build- ing, hanging over us, ftrikes the eye in a peculiar and fanciful manner. It reminded us of Dunfi- nane hill, on the fide of the river Tay in Scot- land, on the fummit of which Macbeth built and fortified his imaginary impregnable caflle, as a place of fecurity againft the attacks of his rival Malcolm III. Before we take leave of the county Wicklow *, it is worthy of remark, that in the fummer of 1795 a quantity of pure virgin gold was found by the country people in a fmall ftream between the mountains of Ballinavalley and Ballynaful- logue, about four miles from Arklow. Such property veiling in the crown, Major Browne of the engineers, attended by the Kildare militia, and Mr. Hayes the fub-fheriff, took porTefiion of what is called Little Peru. But this is not a new difcovery ; for Dr. Rutty informs us that a red 1 2 ochre, * The county of Wicklow contains 311,600 acres, 11,546 houfes, and 58,000 in ibitants ; a very fcanty population for fo large an extent. Part of the county is rendered unfit for habi- tation and incapable of culture by mountains intermixed wi*h rocks and bogs ; the eaft and weft fides however, efpee;;:J]y along the coaft, for feven miles in breadth, are well wooded, intermixed with delightful fcenery, and crouded with gentle- men's feats. ii6 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. ochre, containing filver and gold, was found in 1765 at Newbridge near Cronebawn. There alfo is the water which tranfmutes iron into copper, and produces vaft advantage to the proprietors. Inflead offending it to England to be fluxed and plated, it is certain it might not only be done at home, but that copperas, alum and faltpetre might be made in the county Wicklow, which would fave immenfe funis to this kingdom, and employ a great number of poor families. In this county alfo are the ruins of the cathedral of Glandeloch and round tower, with a ftone-roofed chapel, difcovered by the late Samuel Hayes, Efq; of Avondale, whofe amiable candour, and ex- tenfive knowledge of antiquity could only be equalled by his politenefs and hofpitalityo Mr. Hayes was an ufeful member of the Com- mittee of Agriculture, of the Dublin Society, and the author feels great pleafure in paying a tribute to his memory *. He was a lover of planting and * Mr. Hayes v.as reprefentative in parliament for the bo- rough of Maryborough, and one of the commiflioners for (tamp duties ; he died in December 1795. His character cannot be better defcribed than in the portrait he gives of the Man of Rofs in page 34 of his work. " What an excellent example is held out in Mr. Kerles of Rofs, better known as immortalized by Pope as the Man of Rofs. Once a week he constantly treated twelve of his neighbours, chofen indifcriminately from the farmers who attended the market there. The general difceurfe on rural fubjecls which arofe from fach a meeting was of infinite advantage to both parties, while he himfelf exhibited a pattern ©f every focial virtue. Though liberal to magnificence in the execution TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 117 and gardening ; and we wilh that every Irifh gentleman poffened the fame manly and patriotic difpofition. He wrote an ingenious treatife on planting, which was publifhed in 1794, by Sleater, with fome handlbme embellifhments, and dis- plays a fund of learning and polite literature. The whole county of Wicklow is celebrated for its romantic beauties, its glens, its ancient oaks, and is reckoned the mod picturefque in the kingdom *. There the O ' Tooles and O'Byrnes flourifhed, and for ages maintained themfelves againft the Englifh government - y nor was execution of feyeral public works, for the advantage and orna- ment of Rofs, many of which ftill remain, he was fo plain in his manners and frugal in his own expences, that he was ena- bled to extend his charity to a degree which became proverbial. His table was covered with the bed productions of the county, but no foreign wine or fpirits were ever allowed to appear; their place was amply fupplied by good cyder and line beer." * The barony of Shillela, proverbially famous for its timber, is in this county, and gave the denomination of Fairwood Park to that diftrict in which the great but unfortunate earl cf Straf- ford built his hunting lodge, and paiTed much of his time. His defcendant earl Fitz William now poffefTes this eftate, »nd lately expended 4C00I. in building a hall for the fale of coarfe woollens. It is worthy of remark that when this lord Strafford was lord lieutenant of Ireland, John Qgilby, who was born in Edinburgh in 160c, v/as appointed matter of the reveh, and built a theatre in Dublin. After the war in England he was reduced and went to Cambridge, where he became fo complete a matter of the Latin that he publifhed a tranflation of Virgil in 1649. He then went to Ireland, and built another theatre in Dublin which coft him icooJ. Il8 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. was it reduced to a county until the reign of James I. in 1606. From Bray, which is partly in this county and partly in the county of Dublin, the more bends in to form the bay, and oppofite the turn of the bend lies the little ifland of St. Benedict, belonging to the archbilhop of Dublin. William Fitz William was appointed governor of Wicklow in the year 1375, and the prefent earl Fitz William has a confiderable eftate in the county. Glandeloch, celebrated for its feven churches, was a well inhabited city until about .1214, when the fee, after a fucceffion of twelve bid-sops, was annexed to Dublin by the pope's legate. We experienced fuch a high degree of plea- fure and fatisfaction from viewing the great works of nature and art before us, that our hearts beat in unifon. We felt too, on comparing notes, that fome of the fine firings were touched that were never touched before. It is impolTible for man to know at what perfection he may arrive in humanity and tendernefs. His mind is always capable of improvement, and if he polfeifes one fpark of charity then he will certainly difcern the vanity of all earthly enjoyments. Mr. Taylor, our companion, declaring that poetry conduced, among other caufes, to meliorate, humanize and enlarge the mind, he repeated the following hymn for us, and received our unanimous thanks ; " Ever- TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 119 « Everlafting, holy GOD ! Nature trembles at thy nod ! Father of the mighty whole, Number, harmony and foul ! Light and fpirit ever thine, Counfel, intellect divine. Mighty Parent ! may thine eye, Which can ev'ry thought defcry, Piercing fwift, divinely bright, Round me fcatter mental light ! That my foul may rapid rife, And regain her native fkies. Thro' earth's dark Tartarian tomb, May thy light my fteps illume ; And difclofe the arduous way To the coafts of endlefs day. Cut the reins, and loofe the bands, Wove by guileful Nature's hands, Which forgetful of her birth, Keep the foul a (lave to earth. To thy fount divinely pure, Ever tranquil and fecure, Gracious, bid my labours tend, And my exil'd foul defend ; Exil'd from her place of reft, Wand'ring, weary and oppreft. To thy bofom hade my flight, Where feraphs pure to dwell delight ; Where the foul from anxious toil Refts, as in her native foil ; Finds the period of her woes, Joy unmixt with forrow knows ; And to be divinely free, Lofes all herfelf in thee." The dawn of fuperior intelligence, the firlt emanations of intellect, and the charadteriftical traits, 120 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. traits, which originally diftinguifhed the favage from the brute, were primarily evinced by poetry. By poetry the great truihs of morality and of hiftory were at tirli communicated ; and by its irr elidible power impretTed on the memory, it long fupplied the want of written characters. Bv poetry che principal inftitutes of infant politics were traditionally handed from generation to ge- neration, and thus was preferred all that was ef- fential to be known of hiitory, religion, or juris- prudence. We mud then ceafe to wonder that divine honours were paid to the inventors of this art, who were thought to be endowed with fu- perior powers, and whofe works were efleemed among the choiceft gifts of heaven. In a more advanced period of civilization, when other fci- ences interefted the mind, ftill poetry preferved an eminent fuperiority. Innumerable are the al- liances recorded of its wonderful effe&s, and of the refpecl and admiration paid to it in all ages. Hence Homer, Odyssey VIII. " O King ! to mercy be thy foul inclin'd, And fpare the poets ever gentle kind ; A deed like this thy future fame would wrong, For dear to gods and men is facred fong !" Palling by the handfome feats of Hoeyfield, Mr. Hoey ; Hollybr.ook, Sir Robert Hudfon ; and Wingfield, Colonel Gore; we returned to Bray, and vifited Mr. Rowley, a curious and fkilful botanift, who lately imported a collection of fcarce exotic plants into his green-houfe at Old Court. TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 121 Court. At Loughlinftown we met an old elm of great fize, and formerly of confiderable beauty. On riding into the camp we paffed fome ancient and good fcenery of Mrs. Domville's. Viewing fuch a body of armed men, we confidercd Ire- land as once the great theatre of Irifh valour, in defence of their country ; when feeing themfelves inverted by fea and land, with a view to the com- plete conqueft of their ifland, they made vigorous preparations to check the progrefs of the holtile Danes. Having collected all their force, and lodged their wives and children in places of fecu- rity, they advanced in good order, and 'with a bold countenance, to meet an enemy which they no longer confidered invincible. While Turge- fius was animating his victorious legions, exhort- ing them to put an end to a ftruggle of fifty years, with one great and important day, ■ Brien Boru pathetically addrelfed his countrymen in a fpeech of confiderable length, of which the following is an abftract : " Againft their pride and ambition (faid he) you will in vain feek a remedy or refuge from any obfequioufnefs or humble behaviour. Thefe plunderers of the earth, thefe ravagers of the uni- verfe, finding countries to fail them, endeavour to rifle the wide feas and the ocean. If the enemy be wealthy, he inflames their avarice ; if poor, their ambition. Of all men, they alone thirfl after acquisitions, both poor and rich, with equal avidity and pamon. Devaftations, mur- ders, 122 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. ders, and univerfal deftruction, they by a lying name ftile empire and government j and when they have fpread a general devafiation, they call it peace. Deareft to every man, by the ties of nature, are his children and kindred. Thefe are matched from us to fupply their armies, and doomed to bondage in other parts of the earth. Our wives, daughters and fillers, however they efcape violence from them as from open enemies, are debauched under the appearance of friendfhip. Our goods are their tribute, our corn their pro- vifion, our bodies and limbs their tools for drudgery of making cuts through woods, and drains in bogs, under continual blow's and out- rages. " Let us, who are yet unfubdued, who ftill preferve our forces intire, and want not to ac- quire, but only to fecure, liberty, mew at once, in the very firit encounter, what kind of men Ireland has referved for her own vindication and defence. Here you fee a general, here an army j there tributes and mines, with a long train of ca- lamities and curfes, ever attending a ftate of flavery. Whether all thefe are to be for ever impofed and borne, or we forthwith avenge our- felves for the attempt, this very day muff deter- mine. As therefore you advance to battle, look back upon your anceftors, who lived in the happy ftate of liberty ; look forward to your pofterity, who, unlefs you exert your valour in this very field, muff live for ever in a miferable ftate of fen-hude/' The TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 123 The event is too well known to be recited fiere ; but it affords matter of aflonimment to the philosopher to reflect on the great change, and the progreffive civilization of mankind. For cer- tainly an Irifh gentleman lives more rationally, more elegantly now than an Irifh prince did fome centuries ago. He wants nothing to make him happy but a prudent attention to the improve- ment of his country, and a benevolent confidera- tion for the welfare of thofe who labour to pay his rents. The union of the three kingdoms is well difplayed in the appearance of fo many Irifh,. Englifh and Scots foldiers in this camp, which commands a good view of the fea, with the feats of Mr. Roberts, Mr. Byrne, Mr. Macartney, Mr. Brooke, Mr. Patrickfon, Mr. O'Reilly and Mr. Meredith. From the hill of Rocheftown* — where lord Clonmell intends building — we had a full profpect of the bay and all the adjacent country, which has been lately very much im- proved by lord Clonmell, Mr. Dwyer, Mr. Sproule, Mr. Swan and Mr. Tubbs. Loftus Hall, the feat of the latter, is the belt, fituation in the vicinity of Dublin. The extenfive and charm- ing view from one bed-chamber — looking down on the city, acrofs the bay, to Howth and Wales — cannot be equalled, pofTelTmg all that can be conceived * This place is celebrated for pure and wholefome air. Here lord Clonmell is right in building. On the hill is a handfome obeliflc, called Mapas's, built by the head of that family in 1741^ when provisions were dear ; thus relieving all the labouring poor,, 124 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. conceived of the fublime and beautiful works of nature combined with art, Whence admiration overflows the mind, And leaves the pleafure felt, but undefin'd. Military men who have been on fervice, and have feen fighting camps, inform us that this one is irregular and icattered in a great degree. Yet the canvas tents, the wooden taverns and huts, the brick houfes erecled in fuch a Ihort fpace of time, the park of artillery, the exercifing of fuch a numerous body of men, the officers wives, the foldiers ladies, the numerous vifitors, altoge- ther form a more novel and grotefque appear- ance than was ever exhibited before in Ireland, The camp, which was formed the 29th of May 1795, is eight miles from the caitle of Dublin, and extends over 120 acres of ground, which be- longs to the dean and chapter of Chrift church. It is extremely well fituated for the purpofe ; wa- tered by a mountain river and a perpetual fpring, capable of fupplying an army of 20,000 men. It lies on two hilly ridges, having the fea in front and the Wicklow mountains in the rere. On the firft and fecond * lines are fixty-four wooden houfes, - The fecond line of the encampment is on Drum-gun hill, fo called from the drum and the gun, being the lafl: place where king James's army was encamped after their defeat at the Boyne. Here they lay for five days, and the king flept one .ni"ht at Puck's caftle, a little above the encampment. It is alfo worthy of remark, that there is a houfe at Chapel-lzod, called The King's Houfe, which in rocp waj occupied by king James in the morning and by king William in the evening TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 125 houfes, each containing thirty-fix privates and two non-commiffioned officers. On the third line are the captains and fubalterns houfes, in fome of which three are quartered in diftinct apartments ; and on the fourth are the ftaff, to the rere of which are the mefs-houfes and kitch- ens, with the quarter-guard in front, making in all 125 houfes. The wooden houfes were at firfl intended for the fummer's campaign, but from the efforts of fome diabolical fpirits to difturb the peace of the kingdom, it was judged expedient by a prudent and vigilant government to prepare for the win- ter. For this purpofe they were pitched, can- valfed and made water proof; thofe of the pri- vates are furnifhed with a large ftove, fo con- trived that the men cook their kettles on the top of the ftove, while the heat communicates to every part of the houfe ; the officers alfo have av fmall ftove. Thefe houfes, which have been found to anfwer every purpofe, and to fave large fums of lodging-money, &c. were introduced by the earl of Carhampton, lieutenant-general of the ordnance, to whom was committed the formation of the camp, whofe indefatigable attention to his duty, to the peace and welfare of his country, has appeared on many occafions. The board of ord- nance has ever been attentive to the convenience and comfort of the troops # ; and it would prove a con- * Mr. Obrel is furgeon-general ro the camp; the men have been femaikcbiy healthy. 126 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. a confiderable faving in fuel, if their ftoves* were introduced into the barracks and hofpitals throughout the kingdom, efpecially where a very high price has been paid for coal, wood and turf. In the beginning of June 1795 the troops be- gan to encamp, and marched in afterwards in the following order : The Breadalbane Fencible Highlanders, commanded by the earl of Breadalbane — 860 men. The Downfhire Militia, by the marquis of Downfhire — 760 men. The Weftmeath Militia, by the earl of Weftmeath, who firft took pofTeffion of the wooden houfes — 540 men. The Derry Militia, by the Right Hon. Thomas Conolly ; and, in his abfence, by the Hon. Colonel Stewart — 600 men. The Fermanagh Militia, by lord Ennifkillen, which remain- ed only a month, being ordered againft the defenders at Naas ; and the Longford Militia, commanded by the earl of Granard, matched into their ground — 480 men. The Drogheda Militia, commanded by major Fairtlongh, were the fecond which got into wooden houfes — 280 men. The Effex Fencibles, commanded by colonel Urquhart — 550 men. The Aberdeen Fencibles, by colonel Leith — 600 men — fucceeded the Weftmeath and Drogheda Militia. The * Thefe ftoves v/ere invented by Thomas Burgh, Efq; de- puty furveyor-general of the ordnance. In May 1796, a large ftove was erecled at the rere of each regiment, which cooks fixty kettles at once, and is capable of ferving 700 men every day. The refident ovetfeer is Mr. CommifTary Davis, whofe conftant attention to the welfare of the foldiery met the genera! approbation of the commanding officers in the camp. 5 H a 2- I ea 3 "" ; '_ TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 127 The Argyle Fencibles, by colonel Clavering — 700 men — marched out to Dungannon in March, and were fucceeded by the Invernefs Fencibles, colonel Baillie. The Royal Irifh Artillery, by colonel Wright, which always made a very foldierly and fine appearance — 200 men. In April 1796 the Donegal Militia — 700 men — commanded by the Right Hon. Wiiliam Burton Conyngham ; and the Clare Militia — 460 men — commanded by lord vifcount Conyngham, fucceeded the Aberdeen Fencibles, who went into country quarters *. Major-general Crofbie is firft, and major-gene- ral Egerton is fecond in command at camp ; co- lonel Cradock is quarter-mafter-general. Major Stark and major Armftrong brigade majors. On the 22d Augufl 1795 the different corps then in camp formed an army of 4000, and on that day were reviewed by his excellency earl Camden, lord lieutenant of Ireland -f. The troops made an excellent martial appearance, and performed all * The annexed view of the camp mews on the right the ruins of Rathmichael church, where half-yearly fairs are held ; beyond which is the beautiful fcenery of Mr. Roberts at Mount Eden, terminated by the Sugar-loaf Hill. In front are two lines of wooden huts, with officers in the rere, and the women's huts under the hill ; the grand parade terminated at Mrs. Dom- ville's wood by the royal Irifn artillery. On the left is Loftus Hill and grove, with Mapas's obelifk, Killiney hill and Bray head. j His excellency alfo reviewed this camp on the 3d March 1796, ant! expreflld his fatisfaaion at the comfort and cleanli- nefs of the men. To complete the accommodation, there is a ball-room and coffee room fupplied with Irifh and foreign news- papers, and public breakfafis, patronized by the countefs of Granard, lady Emily Stewart, Mrs. Crofbie and Mrs. Egerton. 128 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. all their manoeuvres of exercifing and mam-fight- ing to the entire approbation of his excellency, and the greatefl concourfe of fpectators ever feen in the country. After the review the earl and countefs Camden, with the nobility, officers and gentry, were elegantly entertained at breakfaft by general Crofbie in his tent and wooden houfe. The winter's encampment in the wooden houfes was occupied by the artillery on the right, the Argylefhire fencibles on the left, and the Aber- deen fencibles and Longford militia in the centre, making in February 1796 a total of 1900 men, exclufive of officers, commanded by the earl of Granard in the abfence of the generals *. The entire length of the line from right to left is one-third of a mile, which is gravelled forty- five feet in breadth, where every regiment pa- rades oppofite its own lines-, and in the centre is the * Here it will not appear mifplaced to record the prefent good management of the Britifh army. The commander in chief is a friend to foldiers, to their widows and children. He constantly (ludies their comfort and convenience. His Royal Highnefs has difmifled thofe young boys for whom intereft had got commiilions, as for finecure places. He has aboliflied the practice of raifing men for rank, by which many an inexperienced (tripling, who had money, ftepped over the brave old veteran. He has reformed and confolidated the army into effective batta- lions of 1000 men each, by which means a vail faving has been made in the pay of ufelefs officers. Lcn^ fervice or profeffiona! merit is Aire to meet his protection. His Roval Highnefs's fe- cretary is colonel Robert Brownrigg, a native of Ireland, the friend and lover of his country, the difinterefled friend of me* ritorioas officers and foldiers. TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 129 the grand parade, where the guards are relieved every morning. We have been thus particular in defcribing this encampment becaufe it is novel in its kind, and in all probability was the means of faving the capital and the kingdom from the incendiary's fire and the rebel's fword. On the 23d of Auguft 1795, when the 111th and 114th fegiments, with arms in their hands, encouraged by a number of difaffe&ed perfons in Dublin, re-» fufed being drafted into other regiments, and were ripe for infurreclion, the troops in camp, the day after their review, marched to town with the utmoft zeal and alacrity, and foon overawed the infurgents*. On the trial often defenders, on the 29th of February, for a confpiracy to murder k John * According to Charron, in one of his chapters on wifdom, there is nothing fo unequal as equality. There is no fuch great hatred as that which takes place amongft perfons who are equal to one another. The envy and the jealoufy with which equals are pofTefTed, are the caufes of troubles, feditions, and of civil wars. In all governments there muft be inequality of rank, but it fhould be moderate. Harmony itfelf confifts not in a complete equality of tones, but in a difference of tones that (till agree one with another. — The honeft and upright hiftorian, Philip de Comines, who was in England fo early as in the reign of Ed- Ward IV. fays, that of all the governments with which he was acquainted, that of England was the government in which there was mod regard paid to the common good. To this we may furely add, that at prefent our throne is literally eftablilhed in righteoufnefs. The decency, the dignity, the ferioufnefs, and the fanclity of the foval deportment, are objects of univerfal ad- miration, and might well be expecled^o arreft the attention, or Simulate the emulation of his fubje<5>s. 130 Tour to bellevue. John Hanlon, a foldier of the artillery, it ap- peared in evidence that an infernal confederacy, and a deep laid plot had been formed to feize the magazine and battery in the Phoenix park, with the caftle of Dublin, and to overturn the govern- ment, by bringing a large body of deluded rebels to town. It is a mofl diftinguifhed honour to the troops in this camp, which we record with in- finite pleafure, that not the fmalleft depredation has been committed, nor even a fowl taken from the country people. It is a comfortable reflection for the fubaltern, that, afnfled by the camp allow- ance of bread and forage, he can get his breakfafl and dinner and keep a horie here for 12 s. 8d» per week. The Dublin affociation has, we hope, done much good by fending moral and religious books to the foldiers in camp, fome of whom are truly pious, while others affailed our ears with curfing and fwearing. The corruption of our nature ap- pears, not only in the propenfity of mankind to irrational and cruel amufements, but in their in- clination to commit the mod unprofitable and im- pious fins. Tor inftance, that of fporting in pro- fane oaths with the tremendous name of the Su- preme Being. Bccaufe of fwearing the land mourn- ith, faid a prophet thoufands of years ago ; and what land even in Chriflendom, yea what parifh in this reformed ifland mourns not, or ought not to mourn for the fame provoking crime ? a crime which is the helliili offspring of practical atheifm and TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 131 and heathenim infolence ; a crime that bring3 neither profit, honour, nor pleafure to the profane wretch who commits it ; a crime for which he may be put to open fhame, forced to appear be- fore a magiftrate, and fent for ten days to the houfe of correction, unlefs he pays an ignomi- nious fine ; and what is more awful (till, a crime, which, if perfifted in, will one day caufe him to gnaw his impious tongue in the feverefl torments. Surely the man who drinks this infipid and yet deftructive iniquity like water, muft have his moral tafte ftrangely vitiated, not to fay dia- bolically perverted. The militia of Ireland — many of whom are here — has become in the fhort fpace of two years the pride, the boaft, the bulwark of the nation. They have proved their genius, and their inge- nuity in learning fo quickly the military art. To them we may look for ample protection from our enemies, and for fecurity to our liberties, where the foldier and citizen united, becomes indeed the ftrength and defence of his country. Already by their uniform good conduct have they proved with what juftice the highefl expectations were formed *. By their fpirited exertions in fupport of the laws, they have proved themfelves the befl guardians of their country's peace and honour. We may now, under GOD, hope at length to reft fecure from perpetual alarms, while the hu- k 2 mane * See the Rev. Edward Bayly's fermon, preached at Arklow the 1 8th of Augufl 1793. 132 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. mane and vigilant exertions of our government are putting an end to the difturbances, oc- casioned by the machinations of a fet of difcon- tented wicked men ! The eftablifhment of a mi- litia was not only a wife meafure for the defence of the nation, but a neceffary tax on the rich to fupport 16,000 poor men. As the public mind is in a promifmg Mate of progreflive improve- ment for its own intereft, we hope the time will very foon arrive when thefe men will purfue the mod ufeful and profitable of all employments- agriculture. On feeing this numerous martial force we for- rot ourfelves, and our hearts for a moment pant- ed for military glory on hearing the (hrill fife and drum. We rejoiced the hearts of fome of the poor. fellows by giving them a little money, and we fat down in a tent to a frugal dinner of bread, fruit and wine. It infpired us with innocent mirth and jov ; we felt ourfelves as ftrong as Sampfon when he went out againft the impious Philiftines, and certain I am there was not a man of us who would not that moment have marched to meet an enemy, and would have laid down his life in defence of his family. In fhort we got rid of all womanifii apprehenfions of the French. Proceeding to town by the high road, the ride exhibits fome of the moft beautiful and pic- turefque fcenery. From the hill of Stillorgan, its fine park, with the extenfive demefne of earl Fitz William, the bay, city, &c. form a good prof- pe& j TOUR TO BELLEVUE. 133 pe£l ; with a handfome obelifk, above 100 feet high *, to each fide of which is a double flair- cafe leading to a platform which encompaffes the obelifk, and from whence a view of Howth on the oppofite fhore, appearing very like the rock of Gibraltar. The road was greatly enlivened by the equeftrian and pedeflrian citizens, the death- dealing artillery waggons and the life -giving bread waggons. The feats of Mr. Digges La Touche, Mr. Alexander, Sir Thomas Lighton and Doctor Perceval, increafed our fatisfaction. To fee the fair women with veils — not nuns — tripping on fancy's airy wings along the luxuriant fields, the perfumed, blooming gardens, were objects at once animating and pleafing to our minds. Donnybrook is a handfome village, two miles from Dublin, whofe fair on the 26th of Auguft is reforted to by all the lower claffes, like Bartholomew fair in London. We returned fafely to Dublin greatly fatisfied with our excur- fion ; and vifiting St. Anne's church, we found a tribute paid to the memory of an amiable wo- man by her affectionate hufband. The reader will not be difpleafed if the author, defirous to preferve it, concludes his firft volume with it. EPITAPH * This obelifk was built in a time of fcarcity (1740) by Sir Pigot Piers, Bart, in order to employ the poor. 134 TOUR TO BELLEVUE. EPITAPH In St. Anne's church-yard, Dublin, inclofed within an iron railing, on the northern fide. On the head-ftone. To the Memory of Mrs. Marianne Cox. Gentleft fpirit ! Thou child of elegance, And fweet fimplicity, - Adieu ! In gentlenefs of affeclion, In fhong underftanding, With innocent gaiety, In delicacy and dignity of mind, I never knew thy equal. Oh ! if I forget thee, Even in my mirth 1 On the foot-Hone. Sac. Mem. M. Cox. Heu ! flore Venuftatis abrepts. Masr. Am. Pos. Hasc, funt Obleclamenta miferioc, Ob. 27 Jan. 1787. /E tat is 23. ADDENDA. t 135 ] ADDENDA. V> H R I S T Church in Dublin was originally built for a friary. It was converted by Henry VIII. into a royal collegiate church, like Saint Peter's, Weftminfter. It is folely under a dean and chap- ter, where the archbiihop of Dublin has no ju- rifdiction. At the Weavers Hall, on the Coombe, there is a large portrait of king George II. curioufly wrought in various coloured thread, the work of John Vanheaver, a famous tapeftry weaver, in !73 8 - Mr. Sproule — for whom fee page j$ — finiihed a perfpe&ive view of Merrion Square, which the proprietor, lord Vifcount Fitz William, had the honour to prefent to the king, at his majefty's requelt. It is in his collection, well known to be the fir ft and beft in Europe. Sarah-bridge was built by Mr. Alexander Ste- phens, a native of Scotland. See page 46. The botanic garden is at GlaiTnevin, where the Dublin fociety has taken fixteen acres of ground purfuant to act of parliament for promoting a icientinc knowledge in the various branches of agriculture. The gardens are laid out as follows : A Hor - 1^6 ADDENDA. A Hortus Linn^eensis, divided into three parts: The Herbaceous, (Herbarium.) The Shrubs (Fruticetum.) The Trees. (Arboretum.) Each plant therein to be arranged according to its clafs, order, genus and fpecies, beginning with the firfl clafs and proceeding regularly to the firff. clafs of Cryptogamia, for which a fcpa- rate divifion of ground i& to be allotted. The Cattle Garden. The next garden is the cattle garden, or Pe- cudarium, which is to confifr. of five divisions, as follows : i. The fheep divifion, or Hortus Ovinus. 2. The horned cattle divifion, or Hortus Bo- vinus. 3. The horfe divifion, or Hortus Equinus. 4. The goat divifion, or Hortus Hircinus. 5. The fwine divifion, or Hortus Suinus. The Hay Garden. The next garden will be the meadow divifion, containing all plants of which hay can be made, arranged according to their times of being fit for cutting, placing on one fide of the walk thofe that are valuable, and on the other, thofe that are the leaft ufeful, for the fcythe. The Esculent Garden. The next garden will be the Eiculent one, or Efcarium, which is to contain every plant that furnifhes food to man, arranged in divifions as follows : 1. Thofe ADDENDA. 137 1. Thofe vvhofe roots furnifli food, wholly or principallv. 2. Thofe whofe flocks or leaves, ditto. 3. Thofe whofe flowers, ditto. 4. Thofe whofe feeds, ditto. The Dyers' Garden. The next will be the Dyers' garden, wherein all plants, which afford any afliftance in dying colours, will be arranged, according to the co- lours they die, with like marks and catalogues. The next will be a garden of Saxatile, or Rock Plants. The next will be one for Creepers and Climbers. The next for Bog and Water Plants. The next for Marine Plants. The next will contain a feparate collection of all Variegations of every Tree, Shrub and Herb. The Nursery. The next will be the Nurfery, where the pro- pagation of all the choked kinds will be attended to, and the different modes of layering, grafting, inoculating, &c. exhibited for inftruction. It is propofed that there (hall be a profeffor, who fhall give lectures on botany in general ; and alfo feparate lectures on the cattle and hay- gardens, for the inftruction of the common farmers, their fervams, or labouring men, all of whom are to be admitted to the lectures gratis, on 138 ADDENDA. on the order of a vice prefident, or the treafurer, fecretary, or profeflbr. That like lectures be given on the garden for Dyers' ufe, and that for the purpofe of extending practical knowledge, particularly in hufbandry, famples and feeds be allowed to be given, and even plants, where they can be fpared, to all perfons who may wifh for them. The lectures on botany at large to be given during the feafon when the generality of plants are in flower, for the better demonftration of the fexual fyftem. And the profeflbr to be allowed the ufe of the houfe and gardens for delivering thtm, and to take pupils, and receive fubferip- tions. The fociety having refolved that their commit- tee of agriculture do, in their name, requefl Dr. Wiule, the author of Flora Dublinienfis, to un- dertake the arrangement of the plants, and to act as their profeflbr and lecturer in botany, fo far as a knowledge of the vegetable products, and their qualities may tend to promote agriculture, arts, or manufactures ; and the committee having accordingly applied to him, and obtained his compliance, they have now the fatisfaction of the certain aid of his great knowledge and abilities to promote and complete the undertaking. The following lines were inferibed on a plate fixed on the foundation ftone of Mavnooth col- lege. — See page 25. COMES DE CAMDEN, Hi'bermae Pro-Rex, ad ReK- nionis et Literarum, incrementnm, huius R. Collegii Catholici Deo, ADDENDA. 139 Deo, fub nuncupatione S. Patricii dicati, patriaque Munificentia* dotati, primum lapidem collocavit ; prccfentibus, prseter Aulicum Comitatum, pluriniis ex Collegii Curatoribus et frequentiflimo populo : xii. Kal. Maii Anni Salutis mdccxcvi. Regni Georgii III. Regis Augufti xxxvi. The following lines were infcribed on the filver trowel prefented to his Excellency : COMITI DE CAMDEN HIBERNLE PRO-REGI R. ACAD. S. PATRICII APVD MANOOTH AD RELIG. ET RE1PVB. BONUM PATR1A MVNIF. DOTATI FAVTORI PATRONO QVI JEDIF. PRIM. LAP. POSVIT DIE VIGESIMO APRILIS 1796 ACAD. CVRATORES G. A. TEST. DD. CC. The following lines were infcribed on a gold box, prefented by the truftees to the Right Hon. Secretary Pelham : V1RO NOBILI THOM^E PELHAM BON. ART. ET SC1ENT. PATRONO R. ACAD. S. PATRICII MJECENATI CC. DD. CC. We have omitted to mention the Houfe of In- dufti y, which is a new and fpacious building, well worthy the protection of parliament. Let us ufe every •I40 ADDENDA. every effort to fupprefs beggars, but let us not forget that age, infirmity and misfortune muft increafe the poor in fuch a populous city as Dublin. Count Rumford, of Munich in Bavaria, has been here this year, and made fome very ufeful favings in this houfe. Here are ninety girls and eighty-five boys, healthy and well-looking, who are taught to read and write, to card and fpin cotton. The Hibernian fchool is over-rated in page 66. All the charity fchools in Dublin contain 7416 children, of whom 5076 are clothed, dieted, lodged and apprenticed ; 752 are clothed, educated and apprenticed ; 1588 are educated. Here then, my fellow citizens, is the foundation for many a good ftruclure, arifmg from a virtuous education. Here is the bafis for fobriety and in- duflry ; — the fureft and belt hopes of our future national profperity. This is the moil interefting page of our work, and will give pleafure to every benevolent mind. If there are 7416 poor chil- dren maintained and educated in Dublin, what mull be their number in the country. May God protecl them. May He llrengthen and profper every effort made for their relief, until the legif- lature fees the juftice and neceflity of a fmall tax to erecl a free fchool in every pariih in the king- dom, for clothing and educating them. FINIS. A TOUR FROM DUBLIN TO LONDO N, IN 1795, THROUGH THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA, BANGOR, CONWAY, LLANGOLLEN, SHREWSBURY, STRATFORD ON AVON, BLENHEIM, OXFORD, WINDSOR, HAMPTON- COURT, TWICKENHAM, AND KENSINGTON. By JOHN FERRAR. Which left no individual unbleft, No wifh ungratified within the breaft ; Blifs undifturb'd, and pleafure fo fincere, We could not purchafe at a price too dear DUBLIN 1796. ■ /'if/// t fla j. //////,. ///j ./W///r/ sff/y////r/j. ///r o/' //f'/'A' (t/iJ C { ///ri/ri/ , «/ //if ./Jri/ij/i . '//// 11/ ; tury, was fo (truck with this connexion and this proof, that upon reading the fifty -third chapter of Ifaiah, with floods of penitential tears, he lamented his former infidelity, and warmly embraced the faith, which he had fo publicly ridiculed. Staffordflvire contains 8ic,oco acres and 2525a houfes ; it is watered by the Trent, the Dove, and feven other rivers, which produce falmon and abundance of other excellent fifh. It alfo abounds DUBLIN TO LONDON. 35 abounds with iron, copper and coal. The ma- nufacture of earthen ware has become fo very extenfive of late years as to employ many thou- fands of hands, and to export to a prodigious amount. Here are various aflbrtments and beds of clay, which however contemptible in its ap- pearance, is abundantly more beneficial than rocks of diamond or veins of gold. This is moulded into vefifels of every fnape- and fize ; fome fo delicately fine as to fuit the table of a prince, others fo remarkably cheap that they minifter to the convenience of the pooreft peafant. And all fo perfectly neat as to give no difgufl to the niceft tafle. The key of all thefe ftores, locked up in the bofom of the earth, is given to induflry, in order to produce each as neceflity demands. Which mall we molt admire, the bounty or wifdom of our great Creator ? How admirable His precaution in placing the cum- brous wares under ground ! Were they fcattered on the furface, our roads would be blocked up, and room would not be left for the operations of hufbandry. Were they at a greater depth, it would cod Us immenfe pains to procure them. Were they fpread into a pavement for nature, univerfal barrennefs rauft enfue. Well, thertj may even the inhabitants of heaven, lift up their voices and fing, great and marvellous are thy works O Lord God Almighty. Birmingham, from being a fmali village, has increafed to a very populous town, rilled with manufacturers, who are famous for their iron d 2 and 36 ATOURFROM and fteel works, which they fend to all parts of the world in great quantities. Here is an in- exhauflible fund of combuftible materials, which mollify the moft flubborn bars. They melt even the hardeft flint, make it more ductile than the fofteft clay, and by great ingenuity and labour, have brought the arts to the utmoft perfection, by which means we are furnifhed with the mod curious and ferviceable manufactures in the world. Without the affiftance of iron, what would be- come of all our mechanic fkill? Without this we could not fix the mafl, or drop the faith- ful anchor. We mould fcarce have any orna- ment for polite life or utenfil for common ufe. We called to fee Mrs. Charlotte M at Bir- mingham, whom you may remember, from af- fection to her father, confented to marry the man fhe did not heartily love. She had an inexpreffible fweetnefs in her countenance, and an air of calm dejection which affected us greatly. While fhe was playing and finging to her harpficord Mrs. Jordan's beautiful fong— " Since I am doomed " this fad reverfe to prove," — Henry took out his pencil and wrote the following lines, When lovely Charlotte with her fparkling eyes, Struck Werter with ineffable furprize ; When the foft accents trembled on her tongue, Or to her lyre in founds harmonious fung ; In mute attention inwardly he figh'cl, He kifs'd her hand — -then droop'd his head and died ! Unhappy Werter ! — oft we mourn thy fate, Which gave thy pureft love fo fiiort a date, The gentle Charlotte could thy paflion prove, Her friendship gave, but could not give her love ! CHAP- DUBLIN TO LONDON. 37 CHAPTER V. Warwick/hire Strafford Shakefpeare - — His Houfe His Monument His Character 1 Shakefpeare Gallery — Mr. Boy del I — Worcefier- fhire — Chapel Houfe — Henry — Nuns — Woodjlock — Romantic Spot — Blenheim — Park — Rofamond —.^ueen Eleanor — Palace — Paintings — Library — Chapel — Sgueen Elizabeth's Tree — Her Verfes Steel Manufactory Duke of Marlborough' s Characler. W: E now entered Warwickfhire, the air of which is healthful, the foil rich, producing much corn, malt, wood, wool, iron, coal and cheefe. It contains 670,000 acres, and 22,500 houfes. Arriving at Stratford on the beautiful river Avon ; Where nature liflening flood, whilft Shakefpeare play'd, And wonder'd at the work herfelf had made J We foon repaired to the houfe where our favou- rite poet was born, which is in good prefervation, tenanted by a butcher, whofe wife is related to. Mrs. Harte, the immediate defcendant of Shakef- peare. 38 A TOUR FROM peare. This poor woman fhewed us his pedigree in manufcript, and we had the fupreme fatisfaction of handling the old painting box and pencils of our immortal bard. We alfo got fome of his mulberry tree, and his chair is preferved in the chimney corner. Henry fat down in it and re- ceived fuch infpiration, fuch an animated glow of fpirits, that we know not what will be the con- fluence, for he has been writing on every oppor- tunity fmce. Shakefpeare had built a good houfe for himfelf, but the corporation quarrelled a few years ago with the lady who held it, and the bar- barians threw it down, and with more than favage cruelty, " left not one wreck behind !" Shakefpeare was the eldeft fon of John Shakef- peare, a confiderable dealer in wool at Stratford, who had ten children, and gave William his own employment. He was born 23d April 1564, and died in 16 16, in the fifty-third year of his age. He was buried at the northern fide of the church at Stratford, where a mural monument is placed with his effigy and this infcription, "1 Stay, paffenger, why doft thou go fo faft ? Read, -if thou canfr, whom envious death hath plac'd Within this monument; — Shakefpeare, with whom Quick nature dy'd, whofe name doth deck the tomb Far more than coft ; fince all that he hath writ, Leaves living art but page to ferve his wit." Nature was almofl his only inftructer, and his own genius carried him farther than any human £>eing ever foared before. Borne on fancy's wings he DUBLIN TO LONDON. 39 he gave to nothingnefs a name, a form, a figure. According to Pope, " if ever any author deferved the name of an original, it was Shakefpeare." His poetry was infpiration indeed. He is not fa much an imitator, as an inftrument of nature ; and it is not fo juft to fay, that he fpeaks from her, as that (he fpeaks through him. Nor does he only excel in the paffions ; in the coolnefs of reflection and reafoning he is full as admirable. 1 his is perfectly amazing, from a man of no education or experience in thofe great and public fcenes of life which are ufually the fubject of his thoughts ; fo that he feems to have known the world by intuition, and to have looked through human nature at one glance. When fuch uni- verfal and juft applaufe is paid to him, we ihall not attempt any farther encomium. He himfelf tells us in the life and death of king John, '*. To gild refined gold, to paint the lily, To throw a perfume on the violet ; To fmooth the ice, or add another hue Unto the rainbow, or with taper light To feek the beauteous eye of heaven to garaifh a Is wafteful and ridiculous excefs." And wafteful and ridiculous indeed it would be to fay any thing in his praife. We efteem, we honour every one, who fludies to perpetuate his memory, and we admire the great labour and perfeverance of alderman Boydell, and his ne- phew Jofiah Boydell, who have furnifhed a gallery with hiftorical paintings 'taken from the fcenes of this 4o ATOURFROM this immortal bard. There the poet and the painter will long flourifh together, and Shakef- peare's name for ever live. " Immortal bard, all hail ! may every fpring Around thy tomb the nymphs of Avon bring ' Around, ye grateful nymphs, around him tread, Record his beauties, and bemoan him dead. The famed God of eloquence (who fmil'd On thy great birth, and chofe thee for his child.) In either regions language did excel, At once th' interpreter of Heaven and Hell." In this gallery are blended the works of thofe great mailers, Sir Joshua Reynolds, West, Opie, Northcote and Smirke ; who under the aufpices of the prefent king have rendered London famous for exquifitely fine painting. Long as the art remains Sir Joihua's memory will be revered for his extenfive genius, and rare talents ; the chaftity of his defigns ; his foft, na- tural colouring ; the graceful manner, and flrong iikeneffes of his portraits. His mind was fea- foned with fublime ideas and good principles, and well ftored with polite learning. He was ever ftudious to collect whatever might be of fer T - vice to, or adorn the profeflion he embraced. His lectures from the prefident's chair contain much ingenious theory and much practical advice. They were not only highly improving and agreeable, but were efleemed as models of good oratory ; and his molt pleafing employment was to cherifh and inftruct ingenious young artifts. The nume- rous DUBLIN TO LONDON. 41 rous and dignified proceflion at his funeral to Saint Paul's church is a ftrikirig proof how much he was beloved in life and regretted in his death. Being carried from Somerfet houfe, the lord mayor and city maiihals on horieback, went to Tempk-bar to meet his remains, and attend them to the church ; nor has anv one fet a higher value on his merit, or honoured his memory more than Meflieurs Boydell. What printing has been to fcience, engraving has been to the arts. It has dif- fused knowledge, and psreferved what would have been loft. To the munificence of a Sovereign, the beginning of whole reign was diftinguifhed by great attention to the fine arts, and uniformly continued ever fince, we are to attribute the firft fubftantial caufe of permanent improvement. The founding of the Royal Academy forms an epoch in our hiftory, from which this country may date its perfection in the arts. By this the talents which were infulated .and difperfed were collected into one common focus, promoting the reputation and the riches of the nation. The genius of Reynolds fecured what the liberality of our gracious King had begun, and under the genius of Woollett and Bartolozzi, engraving as compared to painting, became a congenial and , not a fubordinate art. Meflrs. Boydell have pub- limed this year a print of the death of Major Pierfon, which cod them the aftoniiliing fum of 5000I. Lady Lucan has been long employed in making illuftrations for the works of our immortal bard. They 42 A TOUR FROM They confift of portraits in miniature, of build- ings and other objects that are handed down as genuine, and refer to fome part of his corn- pofitions. They are fmifhed with great tafte, cor- rectnefs of defign and brilliancy of execution. When fmifhed they will form twenty large and fplendid volumes in folio, which are intended to grace the magnificent library of her fon-in-law, Earl Spencer, at whofe manfion at Althorp they may be feen, with a fuperb and molt valuable collection of paintings. We flept at Stratford, and in the morning went again to view Shakefpeare's houfe, which we parted with regret, often thinking of fweet Willy O. Pairing now over the river Avon, and the fair villages of Alderminfter and Hennington, the feat of Jofeph Townfhend, Efq; we arrived at Shipfton upon Stower in Worcefterfhire, an an- cient town, whofe market on Fridays is very large. This county is watered by the Severn and the Avon, is mteffpefed with hills, and well clothed with wood. The/ manufacture glafs and Kidder- minfter fluffs, and at Droitwich great quantities of fait are made from the fait fprings. It con- tains 540,000 acres, and 21,800 houfes. Poll- ing ten miles from Shipflon, we came to Chapel- • houfe on the borders of Oxford fhire. This inn is kept by Mr. Boniface, and a more beautiful fituation cannot poffibly be conceived. He has a few acres of ground, which are laid out in better tafle than Vauxhall. The houfe is fituated where four DUBLIN TO LONDON. 43 four great roads meet, on a rifing ground, com- manding a good view of the country, and near it Hands Heythorp, the feat of the Earl of Shrews- bury. Honefl Boniface and his daughter were extremely attentive and obliging. Henry re- minded her that a monaftery \ formerly flood here, and in this very fpot a chapel for the nuns of the order of Saint Therefa ; his pen was fel- dom idle, he gave Mifs Boniface the following excellent lines : M O facred folitude ! divine retreat i Choice of the prudent, envy of the great : By thy pure ftream, or in thy waving (hade, We court fair Wifdom, that celeftial maid : The genuine offspring of her lov'd embrace, — Strangers on earth ! — are innocence and pence ; There, from the ways of men laid fafe afhore, We fmile to hear the dirtant tempeir. roar : There blefs'd with health, with bufinefs unperplex'd This life we relifh, and enfure the next." Riding to Woodflock * we found on our right hand a moil romantic, deep and beautiful glen, fo thickly % Henry VIII. fupprefled 647 monasteries, whereof twenty- feven had votes in the houfe of peers. He alfo demolished ninety colleges, 2374 chanteries, and^i 10 hofpitals, the yearly value of all which were i6i,iool. befides the money made of church plate and ornaments ; cattle, corn, timber, lead and bells, amounting to 9000 marks of gold and filver. • The illuftrious Alfred not only occafionally refided at Woodftock, but according to a M. S. in the Cottonian library, fpent fo much of the little fpace here, in which he was difen- gaged 44 A TOUR FROM thickly covered with wood that we could not fee the bottom. Here for near two miles are two roads running clofe to each other, which are both convenient and handfome, the one being hard for winter, and the other foft for fummer. Woodftock was very famous for its palace and park, ufed by many of the kings of England. Henry I. in i\ 09 beautified and increafed the buildings, and walled the park, which not only contained deer, but lions, tigers and panthers. Rous, the hiftorian, tells us that this was the firft park in England ; in point of natural beauty and elegant embellimment, it ftill maintains priority. In the reign of queen Ann, Blenheim was con- ferred on the family of the Churchills, as a re- ward for the fervices of John duke of Marlbo- rough. Blenheim palace is a magnificent ftruc~hire, well fuited to the munificence of the Britifh par- liament, who granted 500,0001. for the purpofe ; and yet we were told here it was never paid for. The gardens, which occupy 100 acres of ground, can be feen at all hours, except during divine fervice, but the houfe only from three to five in the evening. A good defcription of the place, with a view and ground plan is fold here. On gaged from his numerous wars, that he tranflated Boethius de Confolatione Philofophirs ; and about the fame time he founded the univerfity of Oxford. Here facred Alfred, vi&or of his foes, Indulg'd a fludious and a mild repofe ; Bad fcience bloom with renovated grace, And clafp the Mufes in a clofe embrace. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 45 On entering the park a moft enchanting prof- pect difclofed itfelf to our view ; the lofty towers of the palace rifing in front ; on the left part of the borough of Woodftock ; on the right a broad and deep vale, through which the river Glyne flows, with bold, winding ihores, interfered by a magnificent bridge, which cod 2o,oool. the centre arch of which is 101 feet diameter ; a lawn crowned with a fuperb column, which leaves the tailed trees round its bafe at a didance below, while light clumps, groves and plantations of va- rious ihapes, clothe the remoter plain. All thefe form an affemblage of unrivalled attractions, in which the beautiful and fublime are combined, and confpire to drike the eye of tade with an ir- refiftible charm. The river forms two cafcades and covers 206 acres of ground. The effect of the bridges give an uniformity to the fcene, and is one of the happied efforts of judgment. Every circumflance unites to form one vail and beautiful effect. It commands a calm fcene ; a view, that without furprifing, no repetition can render in- different ; the eye reds on it with complacency and returns to it with delight. This noble park was the nrd made in England, in 1 123. It is twelve miles in circumference, con- tains 2700 acres, and is graced with an obelifk 130 feet high, reciting the victories of the duke. Near the bridge is an iiland, called by her name, in which Queen Elizabeth was confined by her fifter Mary. Near this are the ruins of the palace, which 46 A TOUR FROM which were lately removed with feveral remains of antiquity. The literati have often deeply la- mented the ravages of the rude Goths, and the depredations of the favage Danes ; — but in the enlightened reign of George III. that the vene- rable ruins mould be razed, which was for cen- turies the refidence of our kings, is ftrange and unaccountable. A little to the weftward of thefe ruins flood her bathing fpring |, and Rofamond's bower, the unfortunate paramour of Henry II. of whom the old fong : Moil peerlefs was her beauty founds Her favour and her face ; A fweeter creature in the world Did never prince embrace ! Alas ! me foon felt the punifhment of illicit love ; for the implacable Queen Eleanor, finding the -f- The following infcription was penned, on a report that an urn was intended to be erected over the fpring. If the verfes fhould be neglefled, let the moral be remembered. Ye fair ! who tread in pleafures mazy round, Where many a fnare, and many a gulph is found ; For once reflect ! with penfive ftep draw nigh, And let this moral gain th' attentive eye : " Birth, titles, fortune, — all that fate can give, " Or the mofl favour'd of your fex receive; " Youth's blooming grace, ev'n Rofamonda's charms, " All that delights, or captivates and warms, n Weigh'd in the fcale 'gain ft virtue are but vain — " Link'd with fair virtue, deathlefs wreaths obtain, " While vice lives only in the roll of fame, " To wake your pity or to warn from fliame." DUBLIN TO LONDON. 47 the clue to her apartment in the bower, in a fit of rage and jealoufy, forced unhappy Rofamond to drink of the fatal bowl. In the Roman temple in the park the prefent Duke erected in 1789, a white marble tablet to the recovery of his Ma- jefty, with the following elegant and loyal in- fcription : " Deo maximo cqnfervatorij et providently divinae : ob recuperatam Georgii III. regis optimi, pientiflimi falutem, hoc marnior Georgius dux Malburienfis, expleto defiderio, votique compos, iri aliquod grati animi teftimonium, Icetus, lubenfque dedicavic. Anno Salutis humanx .mdcclxxxix." The library is a piece of exquifite architecture, 180 feet long and 34 broad, containing a good ftatue of Queen Anne ; the duke's collection of books is a very good one, confiding of twenty- four thoufand volumes. We have not looked into the defcription of Blenheim, but what (truck us mod in the paintings were the great hall ; the fcripture piece, fuffer little children to come unto me ; Ifaac bleffing Jacob ; the paflage through the red fea ; the room painted with the characters of all nations is extremely fine ; the whole length of the prefent dutchefs, by Romney ; the family piece of lady Clifden, and lady Spencer ; the framed piece, containing thirty-three portraits of the duke's family, and three of Mary queen of Scots, feme enamelled, and fome painted in oil ; the delightful group of the duke and dutchefs, with their fix children - y indeed the whole collec- tion 48 A TOUR FROM tion is we prefume one of the belt in England, and fuited to this magnificent, palace. The tapeftry, reprefenting the battle of Blenheim, the cardinal virtues, &c. is univerfally and juftly admired for its good colouring and expreffion. The following lines, beautifully worked by lady Spencer, did not efcape our notice, and were grateful to our feelings : " Thy pretence, Saviour^ may I feel, O ftamp me with Thy Spirit's feal ; Lord ! — feal my pardon with Thy blood And let me know I am born of God !" From the library we paiTed along a piazza, with arcades below, to the chapel in the weflern wing of the palace. The coup d'ceil on entering is extremely grand, and correfponding with the place. The light and (hade of the painting is well contrived, diffufing an air of compofed fo- Iemnity, unmixed with gloom, unaccompanied with melancholy. The chief ornament is a fuperb monument by Ryfbrach, to the memory of the firft duke and du chefs ; they are reprefented with their two fons who died young, as fupported by Fame and Hiftory : thefe are coloflal figures pro- minent and {Inking. The pen of hiftory feems to have traced the infcription To the memory Of John Duke of Marlborough and his two Sons His Dutchefs has erecled this monument In the year of Christ 1733. Beneath DUBLIN TO LONDON. 49 Beneath is the taking of marfhal Tallard, in baffo relievo. The altar-piece is excellent, and re- prefents our Saviour taking down from the crofs, by Jordaens of Antwerp. The gallery for the family is hung with crimfon velvet, and over the chimney is a curious painting on black marble, by AlefTandro Veronefe. The theatre is conve- nient and handfome, containing a variety of well painted fcenery. Plays are very unfrequent here ; the nobility of England have objects of much more importance to attend to. At Woodftock we found a good inn, kept by James Nichols, which we would recommend ; near the door of which Hands a very large and venerable tree planted in 1559 by Queen Elizabeth, the year after fhe came to the crown, for fhe always had a great love for this place of her confinement, and was a great benefactor to it. The following verfes were written with charcoal on the window fhutter of the room where fhe was confined :" Oh, fortune ! how thy reftleffe wavering (late, Hath fraught with cares my troubled wit, Witnefs the prefent prifon whitUer fate, Could bear me, and the joys I quit. Thou caufcdft the guiltie to be loofedj From bandes wherein are innocents inclofed ; Caufing the guiltles to be frraites referved And freeing thofe that death well deferved ; But by her malice nothing can be wroughte, So God fend to my foes all they have thoughte. Anno Dom. 1555. Elizabeth Prisoner. Vol. II. e Elizabeth, $o A TOUR FROM Elizabeth, who was afterwards queen, and reigned with great prudence and glory, was long a prifoner at Woodftock, and would in all pro- bability have loft: her life, had not Philip and the Spaniards interceded for her ; — not out of any affection for that princefs, but from fome political motives. Woodftock is unrivaled for the fined poliihed fteel work, and for gloves. While the traveller waits the hour to fee the palace, he feldom fails to purchafe ; and he has liberty if he has leifure, to ride in the park. Woodftock is a fair town, governed by a mayor, aldermen and common council, with confiderable franchifes confered by our ancient fdvereigns : but if it were not in- vidious to exhibit living characters, it may boaft of a patron, whofe liberality excels that of all the kings and queens that ever honoured it with their refidence. The town-hall and the church will be lading monuments of his munificence, — - of utility in its application. CHAP- DUBLIN TO LONDON. 51 CHAPTER VI. Oxford/hire Univerfity— Alfred — The Schools — ■ Obfervatory Chriji Church All Souls Library — Corpus Chrijli — New College Chapel — Mr. Peckitt—Mr. Price — Sir Jofiua Rey- nolds—Mr. Wejl—Mr. Jarvis—Radcliffe Li- brary De/lruclive Lightning 5/. Mary's Church Remarkable Effecls of Lightning - Henley — Park Place. OXFORDSHIRE boafts of good air and foil, and is watered by the Thames, which parts it from Berkfhire. Some of the roads are fo deeply fhaded with venerable trees, they are equal to the aca- demic walks of Oxford. The county contains 125.000 inhabitants. The city of Oxford is famous for its illuftrious univerfity, and almoft furrounded by the rivers Charweil and Ifis. It is large, handfome and populous, containing thirteen parifh churches j and yet this being vacation time, we found fo few e 2 people 52 A TOUR FROM people in the ftreets, it feemed to us like a de- ferted village. That Oxford was a place of public fiudy before the Saxon conqueft is beyond all doubt, but then the ftudents lived in the citizens houfes, and had no diftinction of drefs. They fhared the common calamities brought on by the Saxons and Danes, until Alfred the learned Saxon recalled them, reftored the univerfity and repaired its ruins. He founded the firft college in 872, and fending his own fon to ftudy there, brought many of the nobility there alfo. There are now in Oxford eighteen colleges and feven halls, in which the ftudents live with the fame diicipline as thofe in the colleges, but upon their own fortunes. The fchools form a magnificent quadrangle. The principal front on the outfide is 175 feet in length, in the centre of which is a tower, whofe higheft apartments are appointed for aftronomical obfervations and philofophical experiments. Ap- proaching the city from Woodftock we met a fp'lendid obfervatqry for the fame purpofes, which is highly ornamental to the place. It Hands in a field of ten acres, north of the infirmary, a be- nefaction of the Duke of Marlborough for that purpofe — The fituation is extremely advantageous, as it commands a very extenfive horizon, and is not liable to be incommoded by the fmoke of the town. The main ftreet is very fpacious, the colleges and houfes forming a mod fuperb range of finely contrafted ftruclures, enlivened in cer- tain parts with trees and parterres in front of the houfes. We DUBLIN TO LONDON. 55 We fir ft vifited Chriit. church, which was founded in 1525, by Cardinal Wolfey, and con- tains his flatue. The roof is a noble frame of rafter work, beautified with near 300 cc its of arms, properly blazoned, and decorated v ith painting, carving and gilding in the Gothic ftile. The eaftern window is well painted by Price h »m a defign of Sir James Thornhill, reprefentihg the epiphany. We next vifited All Souls college, fi- tuated in the high ftreet ; the library is a very ex- tenfive one 200 feet in length and 32 in breadth. It contains a number of good bulls, and a beau- tiful one by Roubillac, of Colonel Codrington the founder, alfo fome curious remains of ancient painted glafs. Corpus Chrifti contains a vellum roll of the pedigree cf the royal family from Alfred to Edward, richly decorated, but the moft ftriking curiofity is an ancient manufcript French bible with paintings, given by General Oglethorpe, New college chapel exceeds every thing at Ox- ford, and is a noble fpecimen of Gothic magni- ficence. The ante-chapel is fupported by two finely proportioned pillars, and the choir, which we entered by a Gothic fcreen of beautiful con- ftru&ion, is 100 feet long, 65 high and 35 broad. Over the communion table is an original paint- ing of Annibal Caracci J, prefented by the Earl of J The Duke of Orleans regent of France was a good judge of painting, and united the collections of Chriftina Queen of Sweden, and Cardinal Richlieu. Spence fays the moft coflly picture in the collection was the Belle Raphael, and cofr 13C0I. Ten 54 A TOUR FROM of Radnor, reprefenting the fhepherds coming to Christ after his nativity. The force and fpirit of the fhepherds is finely contrafted by the grace- ful elegance of the virgin and attending angels. The windows of the ante-chapel contain fixty-four portraits large as life, of the patriarchs, prophets, martyrs, &c. by Mr. Peckitt of York ; and alle- gorical figures of Temperance, Fortitude, Faith, Juftice, Prudence and Charity, by Mr. Price. There are other pieces of the nativity, &c. de» figned by Sir Jofhua Reynolds and Mr. Weft, which are the moft exquifite fpecimens of fine flained glafs, and exhibit portraits of the two ar- tifts, Sir Jofhua and Mr. Jarvis, as fhepherds pay- ing adoration to the new born Saviour. Choir fervice is performed here every day at eleven and five, with great folemnity and an excellent organ. RadclifFe library is a fumptuous pile of building, fituated in an ample fquare, formed by St. Mary's church, the fchools, Brazen-nofe, and All-fouls colleges. The pavement is of two colours, of a peculiar ftone brought from Hartz forefl in Ger- many. The building was finifhed in April 1749. The traveller may alfo vifit the Bodleian library, the theatre, the Afhmolean mufeum, the Claren- don printing houfe, and the phyfic garden. The Ten thoufand guineas were offered lately by a fovereign for the three Marys at the fepulchre by Annibal Caracci. The re- gent's fon, on fucceeding his father, ordered Coypel to cut to pieces all the indecent pictures in the palais royal, but this order was not rigidly complied with, as feveral of them made their way to Drefden and Berlin. DUBLIN TO LONDON. S5 The Bodleian library built on the foundation of that of Duke Humphry, exceeds that of any univerfity in Europe, and even thofe of all the fo- vereigns in Europe, except the emperor's, which is older by ico years. It was firft opened in 1601, and has fince found many benefactors, particularly Sir Robert Cotton, Sir H. Saville, Archbimcp Laude, Dr. Pccocke, Mr. Selden and others. The Vatican, the Medicean, that of Beffarion at Venice, and that juft mentioned, exceed the Bod- leian in Greek manufcripts ; which yet excels them all in Oriental ones. As to printed books, the Ambrofian at Milan, and that of Wolfenbut- tle, are two of the moft famous, and yet are in- ferior to the Bodleian. The Afhmolean mufeum was founded by Elias Afhmole, Windfor herald in the reign of Henry II. He made a munificent offer to bellow the uni- verfity all the rarities he had purchafed from the two Tradefcants *, phyfic gardeners at Lambeth ; with * Both father and fon were great travellers ; they vifited Ruflia, Turkey, Greece and Egypt, from whence they brought multitudes of rare plants and flowers. They were buried at Lambeth, with the following remarkable lines on their monu- ment : Know, flxanger, ere thou pafs, beneath this (tone, Lye John Tradefcant, grandfire, father, fon ; They gather'd what was rare in land, fea, air, As by their choice collections may appear ; Whilft they (as Homer's Iliad in a nut) A world of wonders in one clofet (hut : Thefe 56 ATOURFROM with his own collection of coins, manufcripts, &c. on condition they mould build a fabric for their reception, which was accordingly fmifhed in 1682 by Sir Chrif. Wren. It is defervedly efteemed equal to any in the city, and is remarkably well finifhed in the Corinthian order. Doctor Lifter, the Reverend William Borlafe and others have enriched it with valuable benefactions of natural and artificial curiofities, antiquities', ores, foifils, urns, ftatues, paintings, &c. The Countefs of Weftmoreland bellowed on it a magnet of an oval fliape, eighteen inches diameter, which fup- ports a weight of 145 pounds. There are many Grecian, Roman and Saxon coins, the gift of Thomas Braithwaite ; and a picture reprefenting our Saviour going to his crucifixion, made of feathers, which deferves particular notice. Here are alfo fome good paintings j a dead Chrift, by Annibal Caracci ; feveral portraits of the Tradef- cant family, particularly Sir John the grandfa- ther, drawn after his death, and an extraordinary reprefentation of Chrift's defcent into hell, by Brugell. It is no wonder that Oxford is much re- forted to, as fome of the greateft and beft of men have enjoyed infinite pleafure and fatisfaclion in Thefe famous antiquarians, that had been Both gardeners to the Rofe and Lilly Queen, Tranfplanted now themfelves, fleep here, — and when Angels fhall with their trumpets waken men, And fire (hall purge the world, thefe hence fhall rife, And change this garden for a paradife ! DUBLIN TO LONDON. $7 in vifiting the refidence of their youth, and re- ceding on their innocent fports : " 'Twas here we chas'd the flipper by the found, And turn'd the blindfold hero round and round ; 'Twas here at eve, we form'd our Tairy ring, And Fancy ilutter'd on her wildest wing ! Hail Memory, hail ! thy universal reign .Guards the lead link, of Being's glorious chain ; Still fhall thy active principle prefide, And wake the tear to Pity's felf denied." On the 13th Auguft 1795 there fell a body of lightning in England, the effects of which were fo general and fo fatal, we think it neceffary to preferve here fome memorial of them. The flames were exceedingly vivid and inceffant, the claps of thunder as loud and tremendous as were ever heard. The fpire oF Saint Mary's church at Oxford was injured; the weather-cock attracted the lightning, which mattered the mafonry, and running downwards broke to pieces the work near the clock, burning the figure XII. In a houfe near Newport Pagnell a young woman was ftruck dead by a flam which entered at the chimney. At Braintree a fire ball fell which burned three houfes and ail the furniture ; it alfo fhivered the church fteeple in an hundred pieces, and melted the clock. At Codington a boy was ftruck, and his hat burned in twenty pieces. Several balls of fire were feen defcending from the clouds, and at Cuckfield one fell in the ftreet. In SufTex fe- veral iheep were killed, and a wind mill of Mr. Lock's 53 A TOUR FROM Lock's at Copthorne was (hivered to pieces. At Huntley a large elm was (truck in three directions down the body, the bark torn off and carried above 100 yards. At Lee church in Kent ano- ther large tree was ftruck, the bark torn off, the leaves burned to cinders, and a fine cow killed which took fhelter under it. Several houfes were confumed in different places, and near Newark a boy was ftruck dead by a violent flam of the lightning. Travelling through Benfon, we perceived a windmill near the forty mile ftone, which is fup- pofed to be the higheft fpot of ground in England. We arrived at Henley on the Thames, which is a very fair, populous town, containing fix thoufand inhabitants. Here is a free grammar fchool, founded by James I. in 1604, and another, well endowed, for clothing and educating poor chil- dren ; alfo twenty-two alms-houfes for poor peo- ple, and many other charities lately recovered by the laudable activity of Mr. Blady, late town clerk. Near Henley is Park-place, the beautiful feat of Field Marlhal Conway, where he lately died, univerfally lamented. He was a generous friend to agriculture and fcience, which con- ftantly fhared his mind, his purfe and his pa- tience. Chemiftry was his chief ftudy. Henley is a refpeclable market and corporate town, with an amphitheatre of woody hills behind it. The bridge, built by Hay ward, is formed with uncom- mon fimplicity and elegance. It is the mod beau- tiful DUBLIN TO LONDON. 59 tiful ftru&ure of the kind on the Thames, and is enriched with fculpture by Mrs. Darner, which might be admired on the Tiber. The mafks of the Thame and Ifis, that decorate the confoles of the central arch, are among thofe works which have amufed a mind, capable of blending the exertions of genius with the attractions of female grace, and the charms of polifhed life. — Thus the poet, alluding to the beautiful ftatues of Lady Eliza Fofter and of Lady Melbourne, executed by the ingenious Mrs Darner. " Long with foft touch fliall Darner's chifTel charm, With grace delight us and with beauty warm, Fofter's fine form mall hearts unborn engage, And Melbourne's fmile enchant another ase." CHAP- 6o A TOUR FRO M CHAPTER VII. Wind/or — Corporation — Guildhall — Church — frU School — Barrack — Theatre — Cajllc — Prefence Chamber— Charles II. Tapcjlry .Queen's Drawing Rooom Room of Beauties — Dr ' effing Room — Piclurc Gallery — Audience Chamber — Sir Benjamin Weji — Saint George's nail— Curious Memorandums — Round Tower — Royal Standard — Extenji-ve View — Wind/or Fore/2 — Berk/hire — ■ Remarkable Antiquities. AVING fiept at Benfon, we arrived early at Windfor, which is delightfully fituated in Berk- fhire, fo called from the ferpentine courfe of the Thames here, and termed in Edward the Con- feflbr's charter Windlefhore, hence Windfor. It is governed by a mayor and thirty brethren, ten of whom are aldermen. They had the power of electing members to ferve in parliament, but they are now chofen by the inhabitants at large. The guildhall, which is a very handfome ftru&ure, fup- ported with columns and arches of Portland ftome, was DUBLIN TO LONDON. 61 Was erected in 1686. On the fouth fide of it is a ftahie of Prince George of Denmark, erected by Sir Chriftopher Wren, in 17 13. The parifh church is a very ancient fabrick, has a ring of eight bells, and the King has prefented it with the organ removed from Saint George's chapel. In the year 1706, a handfome free fchool was creeled on the north fide of the church yard, for thirty poor boys and twenty girls, who are well clothed, and t;iught reading and writing. To relieve the public from the burden of quartering foldicrs, and partly to concentrate the military force, a barrack has been built at Windfor, for the accommodation of 1000 infantry; and Co- lonel Trigg having reprefented the great inconve- niencies of the nek foldiers in their quarters, the King propofed to build an hofpital, for which purpofe the corporation prefented him with a piece of ground, and the building, which confifts of two large wards, was nruflied in 1784. A fmall but commodious theatre was erected by Mr. Bowen in 1793, at the expence of Mr. Thornton the manager, whofe time of performing is reftricled to the Eton vacation, winch are the months of January and September. Windfor cattle was fir ft built by William the Conqueror ; his fon Henry improved it, Tind fur- rounded the whole with a (hong wall. Henry II. held his parliament herein the year 1 170; feverai of our kings were born in it, particularly the heroic Edward Ilk who on that account made it the feat of the noble order of the garter, Queen Elizabeth 62 A TOUR FROM Elizabeth made a terrace walk on the north fide of thecaftle, which now extends 1875 feet in length, and may with juflice be deemed the nobleft walk in Europe. The upper ward of the caftle is a fpa- cious quadrangle, in the centre of which is an equeftrian ftatue in bronze of King Charles II. in a Roman habit. Beneath is a curious water engine, invented by Sir Samuel Morland, to fupply the place with water. The entrance to the royal apart- ments is by a pair of handfome iron gates, the afcent is gentle, by three flights of ftone fteps, containing twelve in each flight ; and here within a dome is reprefented the flory of Phaeton, pe- titioning Apollo to permit him to drive the cha- riot of the fun ; at the corners of the dome are the four elements, exprefled by a variety of cha- ra&eriftic emblems. The Queen's guard chamber is adorned in the ceiling with Britannia, in the perfon of queen Ca- therine of Portugal, bearing the arms of England and Portugal. In this room are guns, bayonets, pikes, bandoleers, &c. difpofed in various beauti* ful forms, wiih the armour of the Black Prince. The queen's prefence chamber contains three of the cartoons f, lately removed from Hampton- court, f Originally there were twelve of thefe cartoons, two of which were in the poffeflion of the King of Sardinia, and two of Lewis XIV. cf France, who offered ioo,oco louis d'ors for the feven at YVindfor. The twelfth belonged to a private gentleman, who pledged it for a fum of money, and part of it is frill in the pofTedion of William Hoare, R. A. at Bath ; the fubjecl is the murder of the innocents. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 63 court, viz. the miraculous draught of fiflies j Peter and John healing the cripple ; Saint Paul and Barnabus at Lyftra ; all the figures of which are admirably performed. The queen's audience chamber is alfo ornamented with fome good ta- peftry made at Coblentz, and prefented to King Henry VIII. The paintings are William Prince of Orange ; James the firft's queen ; and Frede- rick-Henry Prince of Orange. The ball room has on its ceiling King Charles II. giving freedom to Europe, reprefented by the figures of Perfeus and Andromeda. The tapeftry reprefents the twelve months, was made at BrufTels, and fet up by Charles II. who alfo left here a large filver table and fland, with a looking glafs in a corref- pondent frame. On the ceiling of the queen's drawing room is reprefented an affembly of gods and goddefTes, and the tapeftry fhews the feafons of the year. Judith and Holofernes by Guido, and a magdalen by Sir Peter Lely, are very good paintings. The ceiling of the queen's bed chamber reprefents the flory of Endymion and Diana. The bed fet up by the prefent queen is of exquifite workman- fhip and coft 1400I. The whole of the bedftead and teller, which is made with a dome in the centre, are curioufly carved and gilt, the curtains, &c. are of a rich pea-green corded tabby, the head, teller and counterpane of whice fattin, on which are embroidered a variety of the mod rare flowers, in die brightefl colours, and difpofed with great 64 A T O U R F R O M great judgment. Here is a mirror of one plate, made in England, ten feet high and five broad ; and a full length of the Queen by Weft. The •room of beauties is fo called, from a collection of portraits of the mod celebrated ladies, in the reign of Charles II. among which are the Dut- cheifes of Richmond, Cleveland, Somerfet ; the Countefs of Northumberland ; Ladies Denham, Sunderland, Gramont and Offory. The Queen has lately furnifhed her dreffing room with a neat filk knotting of Manchefter ftuff, and twelve elegant chairs in a correfpondent (tile. In a clofet belonging to this room we faw the white fatin banner, with three fleurs de lis worked in it, and filver ftandard, which is annually delivered here on the 2d of Au^uft before twelve o'clock, by the duke of Marlborough and his fucceffors, by which they hold Blenheim. On feeing the fine painting of the birth and triumph of love, the flowefs'and fruit pieces in this room, by the Princefs Elizabeth,. Henry exclaimed, - F o glow'd the grape, fo perfect the deceit, My hand reach'd forward ere I found the cheat. Queen Elizabeth's, or the picture gallery, con* tains a good collection of paintings, the molt re- markable of which are an Italian market ; Hol- bein's family ; the wife men's offerings, Sir Wil- liam Penn ; Henry VIII. by Holbein ; the angel appearing to the fhepherds ; the interview between Henry VIII. and Francis I. King of France. The tapeftry DUBLIN TO LONDON. 65 tapeftry of the king's bedchamber is very ancient:, and represents the flory of Hero and Leander ; -on the ceiling Charles II. is painted in the robes of the garter, feated on a throne, under a canopy fupported by Time, Jupiter and Neptune, at- tended by Europe, Afia, Africa and xYmerica. In the King's drawing room is an allegorical painting of the reftoration ; Charles II. feated in a car, drawn by horfes cf the fun, attended by Peace and the polite arts; Hercules driving away rebellion, fedition and ignorance ; this room has been lately fitted up with hangings of garter blue filk, with gijt moulding, and a very large glafs of Englifh manufactory from Liverpool, eleven feetbv fix feet. The king's dining room is carved mod exquifitely with fruit, filb, fowl, done in iime wood, by Gibbons, a famous ilatuary and carver in the reign of Charles II. The audience chamber is graced with the inimitable works of Sir Benjamin Weft, celebrating fome of the deeds of the immortal Edward III. viz. the furrender of Calais ; his pafiage over the river Somme ; the battle of Poictiers, when the Black Prince took King John and his fon Philip prifeners ; the battle of Neville's crofs, where David, King of Scotland was taken prifoner by Queen Philippa, while Edward was befieging Calais ; the hiftory of Saint George ; the firft inftallatwn of the order of the garter in Saint George's chapel. A detail of which fubjects ma^ be found in the {'.-- cond volume of Hume, or fourth cf Rapin's hif- Vol. II. r 66 A TOUR FROM tory of England. Let not the traveller haften out of the room which contains the portrait of the queen and fourteen of her children by the fame great matter. Saint George's hall is a magnificent apartment, which is generally allowed one of the fineft in Europe, and is dedicated to the peculiar honour of the order of the garter. On the back of the throne is pointed a large canopy and drapery, re- prefenting Saint George encountering the dragon, both as large as life. At the end of the hall is a Latin infcription, thus tranflated. " Anthony Ver- " rio, a Neapolitan, born of a noble race, orna- " mented with a mofl happy hand this large pile " of building, of the mofl noble King Charles ic II. and Saint George." The reft of the king's apartments contain fome beautiful clocks by Vul- liamy, decorated with mafonic fymbols and de- vices. In the King's chapel near the hall, divine fervice is performed every morning at eight o'clock, where the King attends when at Windfor. The afcenfion ; Mary Magdalen ; the lafl fupper ; curing the paralytick ; the railing of Lazarus ; by Verrio and Sir Godfrey Kneller, are fine paint- ings, and the carving in this chapel is worth par- ticular attention. It reprefents a great variety of palms, pelicans, doves and other allufions to fcrip- ture hiftory, and the ftar and garter, all executed by the mafterly hand of Gibfon. Turning over Camden's Britannia in the King's library, we found the following memorandums, fome DUBLIN TO LONDON. 67 fome of them very curious, written in a blank leaf, by the late Prince of Wales. If the anti- quary does not get a meal, he may a few morfels, not to be found in books of chronology. " Paper was firft invented in the time of Alex- ander the Great, 340 years before Chrift. None made of cotton till the year 1000. The firft made uf linen rags in 1 179 by a German. Not made in England until the year 1687. "In 529, water mil's for grinding corn were mvented by Belilarius, while befieged in Rome by the Goths. " King Alfred the Great, who fucceeded to the crown of England anno 872, meafured time by wax candles, twelve inches long ; they had the inches marked on them, and turned four hours each. To preferve them from the air he had white horn fcraped and framed ; thus lanthorns were the in- vention of a king. " Surnames were firft ufed in England in the •reign -of William the Conqueror, but not gene- rally until Edward II. when fettled, it is faid, by an act of parliament. " Hugh Lupus was the firft earl after the con- -queft, which is the moft ancient title of nobility. The firft duke was Edward the Black Prince, •created Duke of Cornwall 1337. The firft mar- quis was Robert de Ver-e, created Marquis of Dublin in 13S5. The firft vifceunt on record •is John, Vifcount Beaumont, created in 1440, The order of baronets was erected in 161 1, by mes L b 1 It 68 AT OUR FROM " In 1 155, coaches were firft ufed in England, and in 1176, Henry II. divided England into fix counties, and appointed three itinerant judges for each. " In 1 185, wool was firft manufactured in Eng- land, and in 1 192, coats of arms came to be ufed in families ; they originated from the badges of thofe who went to the crufades, to recover the Holy Land from the Saracens. " The firft afiize of bread was proclaimed in England by King John, in 1202, and he was the firft King who caufed fterling money to be coined about the year 1203, when filver was only twenty pence an ounce. All the pennies, with the head in a triangle, were Irifh coin, that being anciently the fhape of the Irifh harp. "Linen was firft made in England in 1253, 37th Henry III. before which woollen fhirts were worn. " The Knights Templars were fuppreffed in 1 31 2, by Clement V. they poffeffed 9000 manors in Chriftendom, which were given to the Knights of St. John of Jerufalem, which order is now known by the name of the Knights of Malta. Charles V. having given them that ifland, when tkey were driven from Rhodes by Soliman. " The firft Parliament, in which the lords and commons fat together, was held at Eltham. in Kent 1330, 4th Edward III. " Anno 1340,. 13th of his reign, Edward III. went into Flanders, and by the perfuafion of the Flemings, DUBLIN TO LONDON 69 Flemings, took the ftile, title and arms of the King of France, viz. three fleurs de lis, adding this motto " Dieu et mon droit," God and my right. " Augufl 26, 1346, was fought the battle of Crefiy, when the Kings of Bohemia and Majorca, nine other princes, eighty knights bannerets, twelve hundred knights, and thirty thoufand common foldiers were flain. The King of Bohe- mia's flandard, on which were embroidered in gold, three oftrich feathers, with the motto " Ich dien," £i I ferve," was brought to the Prince of Wales, who has ever iince borne them in his coronet. " Printing with wooden blocks and types was firft invented by Kofter, at Haerlem, in 1430; the metal types were invented by Guttemburgh of Mentz in j 441. The firft. quarto printed was Tully's Offices in 1465, which is in the Bodleian library, Oxford. " The monasteries were fupprefled in 1488. Im- propriations are fuch livings, as at the difiblution of monafteries, were difpofed of to the befl bidders, and fo became lay property. Of about 10,000 churches and chapels now in England, 3835 are impropriations. " In 1504, 1 9th Henry VII. millings were firft coined in England ; and hats were firft manufac- tured in London by Spaniards in 1510, cd of Henry VIII. before which woollen caps were worn. This year gardening was introduced into England from the Netherlands. The jo ATOURFROM (i The name of proteftants began at the diet of Spires 1529; the protefting {fates were, the Elec- tors of Brandenburgh, the Landgrave of HefTe, and the Princes of Lunenburgh. In 1534 the papal authority was entirely abolifhed in Eng- land. " In 1568, 10th Elizabeth, on the Duke of Alva's perfecution in the Netherlands, a number of artifts in the woollen and (ilk manufactures came over, and introduced thefe arts into England. " Tobacco was not known in England till 1 5865 and in 1660 an act was paMed to prohibit the cul- tivation of it in England or Ireland % at the fame rime an act was palled for erecting a pod office. " The flocking frame was invented by the Rev* Mr. Lee of Cambridge, 1589, 31ft of Elizabeth ; and in 1604 the prefent tranllation of the bibl-e was made." We were now conducted to the round tower, built in form of an amphitheatre on the highefl part of the mount. The afcent by a flight of ieo flone fleps, at the top of which a cannon is planted and levelled at the entrance ; there are alfo feven- teen cannon mounted round the curtain. The a- partments are in excellent order, and belong to the governor, whofe office is both civil and mi- litary, and his charge important. In 1784, Mr. Gray erected an engine here, for railing water upwards of 370 feer. In the guard room may be feen the firft match-locks and pikes ever made, with the coats of mail of John King of France, and DUBLIN TO LONDON. 71 and David King of Scotland. The rooms con- tain fome curious ebony chairs, fome good ta- peftry, reprefenting the ftory of Hero and Lean- der, and another worked with gold and filverj the ftory of Auroclotus, king of Phrygia, and his three daughters, weeping to death by the fide of the Helicon. We now proceeded to the top of the tower, on the leads of which is placed the royal ftandard fourteen yards long and eight broad, and is hoifted on ftate days, or whenever the royal family is here. This tower commands a delightful and extenfive profpect, where the ob» jects by which we were feparately charmed are in- cluded within the fphere of vifion, and open on the fight with collective beauty. Henry imme- diately recollected Pope's lines on Windfor foreft, " To paint anew the flowery fylvan fcenes, To crown the forefts with immortal greens ; Make Windfor hills in lofty numbers rife, And lift her turrets nearer to the fkies." The winding of the Thames, Windfor, the fo- reft, Eton, numberlefs towns contrafted, with the adjacent, variegated fields, venerable woods, and groupes of trees difpofed with great tafte on the banks of the river — altogether combine to ren- der this view one of the moft captivating the ima- gination can picture to itfelf. It would be almoft impoflible to recite the churches, manfions, feats and remarkable places to be ken. from thefe leads ; we fhall only remark the names of the twelve counties 72 A TOUR FRO M counties we had in fight. Middlefex, EiTex, Hert- ford, Bucks, Berks, Oxford, Wilts, Hants, Sur- rey, Suffex, Kent, Bedford. Berkfhire contains 527,000 acres and 130,000 inhabitants. The moft remarkable antiquities in Berkfhire are St, Leonard's hill, near Windfor, on which have been difcovered great numbers of ancient coins, inftruments of war, and an antique lamp. A large camp in Eaft Hemftead, in Windfor foreft, called Casfar's camp. Cherbury caflle, with an orbicular rampart, treble ditched, faid to have been the caflle of the Danifh king Canute. The mofl re- markable curiofity of natural hiftory is a conti- nued bed of oyfter-fhells, which for many gene- rations has been found near Reading, extending through five or fix acres of ground. Near Maid- enhead is the vicarage of Bray, fo famous in fong for being kept by the fame clergyman during the reigns of James, William, Anne and George, under all the changes of government, keeping to one principle only, that of living and dying vicar of Bray \. % Near this fpot, in digging a bed of ftifF clay, was lately found a perfect petrifaction of a turtle, weighing 49 pounds, and meafuring fixteen inches in its krgeft diameter. CHAP- DUBLIN TO LONDON. 73 C H A P T E R VIII. Saint George's Church Roof Choir Painted Glafs — Singing Ma/Jis — William Fitzuiiliams-— The King's Munificence — His Character — Eton Hampton Court — Staines — Rural Beauty Twickenham — Alexander Pope — His Grotto--— Camera Obfcura — Pope's Character — Univerfai Prayer — His Death. O AINT George's church is univerfaliy admired for its Gothic magnificence ; it was built by Ed- ward III. in 1337, and greatly improved by Henry VII. The roof is of marble of excellent work- manship ; it is an ellipfis, whofe ribs fuftain the whole with admirable beauty. Every part of this lofty ceiling has a different device and arms of the PCings from Edward the Confeffor to Henry VII. The choir is ornamented with the moft cu- rious carvings, and the feats of the knights of the garter, who are inftalled here. The enfigns, ban- ners, helmets, &c. of the knights are removed at their death, but the plates of their titles, engraved 74 A TOUR FROM engraved and blazoned, remain as a perpetual me- morial. ^The altar was furnifhed with 3580 ounces of filver, but the parliament forces in Crom- well's time carried it away. The altar piece, re- prefenting the laft fupper, is by Weft. But the painted window over the altar, defigned by Weft, and executed in 1788 by Jarvis and Foreft, is of the moft exquifite beauty, and coil 4000I. The fubject is the refurrection, — in the centre is our Saviour afcending from the grave, preceded by the angel of the Lord ; above whom is an hoft of cherubims, and among them is a portrait of the King's fon Oftavius. In the right hand com- partment are the two Marys and Salome, ap- proaching to anoint the body of their Lord. In the left hand divifion are Peter and John, informed by Mary that the body of Christ was miffing, and are running with aftoni foment and fpeed to- wards the fcpulchre. The other windows of this- ancient church contain fcripture pieces by the fame unrivalled mailers. Many grants of land have been made here for finging mafles for de- parted fouls J. Thefe have been laid afide, and fince the reformation four general obiits are ob- ferved J The Englifii owe their co'nverfion from idolatry to the order of Benedictine monks. In the year 596, Pope Gregory fent to England the pious Augufline, prior of the monaftery of Saint Andrew at Rome. He became Archbifliop of Canter- bury ; and the Benedictines founded feveral monafterv-s in England, as alfo the metropolitan church of Canterbury, and all the cathedrals which were afterwards erected. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 75 ferved annually, in commemoration of the found- ers and benefactors to this ancient flrudture. In this church are depofited the remains of Henry VIII. and his Queen Jane Seymour, King Charles I. and a daughter of Queen Anne. Hen- ry VI. and Edward IV. are alfo buried here, with Elizabeth Widville his queen, and Mary his daugh- ter. Near th/z altar is a monument of gray marble, and a plate of copper, with this infcription, tran- flated from the Latin, This tomb is all that remains to you, William Fitz-Williams. Thy fcanty lot's confin'd to this fmall urn, All elfe from thee, by greedy death is torn ; Wealth, honour, beauty, all the outward grace, By fortune furnifn'd, thou did ft once poffefs ; All but the mind and fame ; — in Heaven lives Thy mind, thy fame in ev'ry mouth furvives ! We parted with infinite regret this beautiful Gothic church, in repairing and beautifying which, we were well informed, the King ha6 laid out not lefs than fifteen thoufand pounds. The alterations and additions to the altar will be lading monu- ments of the flouriiliing ftate of the arts in thofe days. His Majefly George III. is not only ex- tremely fond of improvement, but a great pro- moter of agriculture, and a generous benefactor to good hulbandry. His tafte for painting and engraving, with his princely encouragement, are llrongly evinced at Windfor, and have rendered London the firft fchool in the world for thefe fine ar:s- ?6~ A TOUR FROM arts. To him we owe their rapid progrefs, who has cultivated them with fuch fuccefs, that the annals of no other country, in the fame fpace of time, can produce. Long may he live to be a father to his affectionate people, and to patronize art and fcience ! Long may he reign ! — Long may his people fing, Happy and glorious ! — Long live the King ! Our foldiers valiant, and our (tatefmen wife, England and Ireland will more profperaus rife, When peace expands her wings. Windfor Great Park is fourteen miles in circum- ference, and is well flocked with deer, and a va- riety of other game. The lodge was the refidence of the late Duke of Cumberland, who greatly improved its natural beauties ; and by numerous plantations of trees, extenfive lawns, new roads, fpacious canals and rivers, made this villa one of the rnofl delightful imaginable. In the houfe is the genealogy of the Brunfwick family ; Windfor caftle in draw work ; the late King George II. in needle work ; Rubens's family ; fix flags heads finely carved, and a curious table of petrified water. On the oppofite fide of the river is Eton, fa- mous for its college, which ranks as the fir ft fchool in the Britifh empire. Henry VI. pur- chafed, 1 2 September 1440, the perpetual advow- fon of the parifh, for the purpofe of founding a fchool, and the building was begun in 1441. Some of its endowments were taken away by- Edward DUBLIN TO LONDON. JJ Edward IV. but being exempted in the act of diffolution, it has increafed in profperity to this time. The library is large, and contains a very valuable collection of books, bequeathed by Wad- dington Bifhop of Chefler, and Richard Topham, Efq; The village of Eton is divided from the college by a fmall bridge. We foon reached the margin of thofe academic groves, above whofe tufted foliage Eton lifts its antique towers, and awakens in the minds of her matured offspring, the affecting apoflrophe of its own infpired bard, •' Ah, happy hills ! — ah, pleafing (hade ! Ah, fields beloved in vain ! Where once my carelefs childhood ftray'd, A ftranger yet to pain ! I feel the gales that from ye blow A momentary blifs beftow ; As waving frefli their gladfome wing, My weary foul they feem to foothe, And redolent of joy and youth, To breathe a fecond fpring !" Bending our ferpentine courfe on old Thames, we ported to the handfome town of Staines *, where a good flone bridge is building at the fide of the wooden one, from thence to Hampton Court, which is delightfully fituated on the north bank of the river, twelve miles from London, and a fmall * At fome diftance above the bridge, (land; what is called London mark rtone, which is the ancient boundary to the jurif- diction of the city of London on the Thames. On a moulding round the upper part is inferibed, " Gjd prefenre th: city ct London, A. D 1280." 78 A TOUR FROM fmall diftance from the village of Hampton. Tin? palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolfey, and furniflied in a ftile of magnificence ; but the building, with its coftly furniture, was prefented by him as a peace offering to Henry VIII. The park and gardens, with the ground on which the palace now Hands, are about three miles in cir- cumference. The whole palace confifls of three quadrangles j the firfb and fecond are Gothic ; but in the latter is a moft beautiful colonade of Ionic order, the columns in couplets, erected by Sir Chriftopher Wren, and over the portal is a beautiful alt.ro - nomical clock, made by Tompion. Through this is the paffage into the third court or quadrangle, in which are the Royal apartments, which were magnificently built of brick and ftone by Wil- liam III. and on the farther fide of them are the gardens, with the fuperb front of ftone facing them. Both the ceiling and fides of the great ft.aircafe are painted by Verrio. This leads to the guard chamber, which is upwards of fixty feet long and forty wide. This room contains arms for a thoufand men, placed in various forms. In this chamber are the portraits of eighteen Britiffi admirals, painted by Bockman, Dahl and Sir Godfrey Kneller. The rooms through which company are con- ducted in this palace, are, the guard room, the King's firft and fecond prefence chambers, his audience chamber, drawing room, (late bed cham- ber. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 79 ber, dreffing room, writing clofet, Queen Mary's clofet, the Queen's gallery, her date bedchamber, drawing room, Prince of Wales's prefence cham- ber, his drawing room and bedchamber, the pri- vate dining room, chapel, the Kings private dref- fing room, his private bedchamber, council cham- ber, formerly the cartoon gallery, and the public dining room. The painters who have contri- buted to adorn this paragon of palaces are chiefly of the Flemifh fchool. From thence we directed our courfe to Twick- enham, and if any thing could give an additional glow to our fpirits, it was the pleafing objects of this day's ride. We paffed the Duke of Argyle's and feveral other good feats, riding over Maiden- head thicket, Sunbury common, and Twickenham common. The rich drapery of the furrounding fcenery ; — the women and children gathering the yellow fheaves ; — the grapes, peaches, figs and pears growing in front of the final 1 neat houfes ; — the little gardens planted in a thoufand fantafli- cal forms, with fountains, grottos and flatues ; — the fwans, in graceful ma jelly, failing on old Thames * ; the weeping willows bending over the filent dream ; — all contributed to encreafe our fatisfaclion. i " Eternal beauties grace the fqiiling fcene Fields everfrefli and groves for ever greeen !" Twickenham * Cygnets are to this day fold a* Norwich, about Chriftmas, for a guinea a piece. Few birds make fo inelegant a figure out of the water, cr have the -ccnirmnd of fuch beautiful attitudes on thaf So A TOUR FROM Twickenham, a villacre ten miles and a quarter from London, is fituated on the Thames, between Teddington and Ifleworth, and is adorned with many handfome feats. Proceeding along the river from Teddington, the fir ft is Strawberry-Hill, the elegant Gothic villa of the Earl of Orford. The next is the handfome houfe of Sir Francis Baftet, Bart, built by the late Earl of Radnor. Below this, is Mr. May's beautiful little houfe, built by Mr. Hudfon the painter, the mailer of the late Sir Jofhua Reynolds; oppofite the back of which is afmall houfe, with an elegant Gothic front, the property of Mr. Lewes* Next is the celebrated villa of Pope, now of Lord Mendip (Welbore Ellis) adjoining to whofe gardens is Lieutenant Colonel Pechel's. Near this is the feat of Countefs Dowager Poulett. Farther down is the handfome houfe and gardens, with a large terrace next the river, of Mrs. Allanfon. All thefe houfes, with many others on this delightful bank, enjoy a very pleating profpect up and down the river, perpetually enlivened by the Weil- county navigation, and other moving pictures on the furface of the water. Below the church is York Houfe, the feat of Major Webber. On the tli at element. Moit of our poets have noticed it, but none in Co piclurefqne a manner as Milton, The {wan, with arched neck Between her white wings mantling, proudly rows Her (late with oary feet. Par. Lost, B. rn. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 81 the fite of the late Earl of Strafford's houfe, Lady Anne Conolly is erecting a noble feat. Next to this is the houfe of George Pocock, Efq; the ad- ditional octagon room to which was built to en- tertain Queen Caroline at dinner. Below this is the pretty little box of George Hardinge, Efq; fo hid by trees as hardly to be feen ; it is called Ragman's Caftle, from a cottage that once flood there, built by a dealer in rags. Near this is Marble Hill, the feat of the Earl of Buckingham- fhire, built by George II. for the Countefs of Suffolk. Farther down is the neat little houfe of Lady Bridget Tollemache : it is delightfully fituated in the meadows-, and was lately occupied by Lady Dianna Beauclerk, who has decorated one of the rooms herfelf with lilacs and other flowers, fo very natural, as to be taken at firft fight for real ones. Below this is the large houfe and extenfive grounds of Richard Owen Cam- bridge, Efq; and next is Twickenham Park, the feat of Lord Frederick Cavendifh. This led us to Ifleworth, which, from the entrance into the meadows at Marble Hill, is about a mile and a half on the bank of the river. From our inn at Twickenham we went without a guide, in awful filence, to vifit the houfe of the celebrated Alexander Pope. We were fhewed the garden door, and walking in, foon found the venerable trees planted by his hand ; for he had the happinefs to like all that were good, and ex- cluded no beautiful tree or flower from his garden. Vol. II. g Yet. 82 ATOURFROM Yet he often complained of the impertinence of troublefome vifitants, which prevented him from enjoying the retirement he loved. They behaved with fo little decency, that fometimes they would flop his chariot, or rufh into his gardens, with- out knowing whether it would incommode him or not. We walked about without feeing any houfe ; at length we came to a narrow paffage, arched over with Derbymire fpar, and various coloured ftones, having a buft of Pope in white marble at the entrance. This led us to a hand- fome Roman temple, containing a good green houfe. Returning back we came to a grotto, and paffing through it, we found ourfelves on the banks of the Thames, in the front of the houfe. The paffage runs under the high road, and feemed to us like enchantment. It is kept in excellent repair by Lord Mendip, the prefent poffenor. The late Sir William Stanhope enlarged the houfe. Near the river, propped with uncommon care, ftill ftands the weeping willow, planted by Pope himfelf, fome flips of which have been planted by the Emprefs of Ruflia at Peterfburgh. Having found a fpring of the cleared: water, which con- ftantly runs through the cavern, Pope fixed on this fpot for his fubterraneous way and grotto. From the river we could fee through an arch, up a dark walk, to an open temple, entirely formed with {hells in a ruflic manner ; and from that diftance we could look down under the temple, through an arcade of trees, and fee boats fuddenly palling as through a perfpe&ive glafs. The DUBLIN TO LONDON. 83 The once celebrated grotto is no longer remark- able, but for having been erected under the im- mediate direction of our bard. The dilapidations of time, and the pious thefts of vifitors, who felett the fpars, ores and even the common flints, as fo many facred relics, have almoft brought it to ruin. It no longer forms a " camera obfcura j" nor does " the thin alabaftar lamp of an orbicular form" now " irradiate the ftar of looking-glafs" placed in the centre of it. Even the " perpetual rill that echoed through the cavern day and night is no longer in exiftence *." In two adjoining apertures in the rock are placed a Ceres and a Bacchus, an excellent buft of Pope, and fome other figures. In the right cavity which opens to the river, by means of a fmall window latticed with iron bars, our bard fat, it is faid, when he compofed fome of his happieft verfes. At the extremity next the gar- den is this infcription, from Horace, on white marble : Secretum iter et fallentis femita vitae. In another grotto which paifes under a road to the {tables, and connects the pleafure-grounds, are three beautiful bufts, in Italian marble, of Sir William Stanhope, his daughter, and the late Earl of Chefterfield. In a niche, oppofite each, is placed a Roman urn of exquifite workmanfliip. Huge maffes of ftone are fcattered round, in g 2 imitation * See Pope's Letter to Edward Blount, Efq; June 2, 1725, 84 A TOUR FROM imitation of rocks ; and wild plants and hardy foreft trees are planted on each fide, to give a fyivan rudenefs to the fcene. From this fpot, after vifiting the orangery, &c. you are led to a fmall obelifk, erected by the filial piety of our poet, with this tender and pathetic infcription : Ah ! Editha, Matrum Optima, MuLIERUM AMANT1SSIMA, Vale! In the church of Twickenham, Pope and his parents are interred. To their memory, he himfelf erected a monument : to his own, the venera- tion and gratitude of the late Bifhop Warburton ereQed another. On the outfide of the church is a white marble tablet, with the following epi- taph, written by Mifs Pope, the aclrefs, who was the pupil and friend of Mrs. Clive : Sacred to the Memory Of Mrs. CATHERINE CLIVE, Who died Dec. 7, 1785, Aged 75 Years. Give's blamelefs life this tablet fhall proclaim, Her moral virtues and her well earn'd fame. In comic fcenes the flage fhe early trod, " Nor fought the critic's praife, nor fear'd his rod." In real life, was equal praife her due, Open to piry and to friendlhip true ; In wit ftill pleafing, as in converfe free From all that could afflict humanity : Her DUBLIN TO LONDON. 85 Her gen'rous heart to all her friends was known, And e'en the ftranger's forrows were her own. Content with fame, ev'n affluence (lie wav'd, To (hare with others what by toil (lie fav'd ; And nobly bounteous from her (lender (lore, She bad two dear relations not be poor ! Such deeds on life's (hort fcenes true glory (lied, And heav'nly plaudits hail the virtuous dead. Pope knew well how to enjoy the fortune he was bleft with. His conftitution did not permit him to run into excefs. He thought himfelf rich, nay, he thought there was no poverty where there was health, peace and competence. He was not made for courts ; he could not flatter ; his religion excluded him from all offices of truft and profit ; he rather wanted fomebody to humour him than to humour others ; fo that he was calculated for the private life he led. " What is man altogether, but one mighty inconfiftency ? Sicknefs and pain is the lot of one half of us ; doubt and fear the portion of the other ! How unfettied is his belt part, his foul, and how changing and variable in his body ? The one fhaken by every notion, the other affected by every blafl of wind." Thefe are Pope's exclamations, and whoever thinks in this train muft fee the emptinefs of all earthly grandeur ; it would almoft make us remain in a poize of ina&ion, void of all good dengns ; but we muft return to our own narrow felves, and thofe things which affect ourfelves. Pope's genius was chafte and brilliant ; he poiTeffed fine feelings, was compaffionate and generous j yet it cannot be 86 A TOUR FROM be denied that he had a temper eafily provoked, and not foon brought to terms of reconciliation. He fhould have treated the dunces with a filent contempt. His univerfal prayer is, we believe, the firfl of the kind made by a Roman catholic ; but he muft be judged very gently here ; for, efpe- cially in his old age, he was exceeding moderate, and never a bigoted zealot. This prayer breathes nothing but humility, charity and peace ; as he purpofely avoided any pomp of diction, it is very excellent, and worthy of much attention. He wrote little after this, he declined gradually, went to Briftol wells, and returned to his houfe at Twickenham, where he died on the 30th of May 1744, and was buried in the parifh church there with his father and mother ; let us fay, in his own lines on his much efteemed favourite Mrs. Blount, " Peaceful fleep out the fabbath of the tomb, And wake to raptures in a life to come !" CHAP- DUBLIN TO LONDON. 87 CHAPTER IX. Twickenham — Richmond — James Thorn/on — Seats on the Thames — Richmond Bridge — Courfe of the River — London — Strawberry Hill — Earl of Orford Col ley Cibber Mrs. Darner Hogarth — Paintings — Lady Diana Beauclerk Myjierious Mother Printing Prefs Lord Orford* s Works — Hyde Park — Conclufion. A .T Twickenham we hired a boat, from whence we could for feveral miles view the numerous feats which grace the river, in all the pride of rural and aquatic beauty, between Teddington and Ifleworth, to which former place, feventy- three miles from the fea, the fpring tides advance. Near Teddington is the ancient feat of Lord Dud- ley, now Mr. Taylor's. On the oppofite fide of the river are Ham Walks and Richmond Hill ; accounted the mod beautiful walk in England. Richmond, anciently called Sheen, is nine miles from London, and the fin eft village in the Britifh dominions. From the fingular beauty of its fituation it has been called the Frefcati of England, 88 A TOUR FROM England. The royal palace flood here, in which Edward III. died of grief, for the lofs of his heroic fon the Black Prince. Ann, the wife of Richard II. alfo died here, who firft taught the Englifh ladies the ufe of the fide faddle. In 1497, the palace was deftroyed by fire, and rebuilt by Henry VII. who having been Earl of Richmond, commanded that the village mould be fo named. Here he died in 1509 ; and here alfo Queen Eli- zabeth expired in 1603. On viewing the park, we inftantly recollected Mifs Parke's beautiful fong in the Duke of Leeds' concert of ancient mufic, Where'er you walk, cool gales (halJ fan the glade, Trees where you fit fliall croud into a (hade ; Where'er you tread the bin filing flowers fliall rife, And all things flourifh where you turn your eyes. King William granted the Duke of Ormond a confiderabie extent of land at Richmond, where he built a palace, but on his attainder it devolved to George I. and the edifice was taken down fome years ago. The royal gardens are feparated from thofe at Kew by a wall ; they are four miles in circumference, extending along the river. His prefenf Majefty has entirely changed the face of them ; the terrace is deftroyed, molt of the build- ings are pulled down, the ftiff grandeur of the gardens is annihilated, and the beauties for which they were f° celebrated are loft in the refinements o? modern tafte. In the S. E. quarter a road leads DUBLIN TO LONDON. 89 leads to a fequeftered fpot, in which is a cottage that exhibits the moft: elegant fimplicity. Here is a .collection of curious foreign and dorneftic beafts, with many rare and exotic birds. Being a favourite retreat of her Majefty, this cottage is kept in great order and neatnefs. On the fouth is a fmall park, in which (lands an elegant ob- fervatory, and a complete collection of aftrono- nomical inftruments. Thefe gardens are open to the public every Sunday from June to Sep- tember. The fummit of Richmond Hill commands a moft luxuriant profpect, which Thomfon has ce- lebrated in his Seafons. His refidence was at Rofsdale houfe, and after his death it went to George Rofs, Efq; who through veneration for his memory not only forbore to pull down the manfion, but enlarged and improved it. The Honourable Mrs. Bofcawen, the prefent poiTeffor, has repaired Thomfon's favourite feat in the gar- den, and placed in it the table on which he wrote his verfes *. Over the entrance is inferibed, " Here Thomfon fung the Seafons and their change." He * The infide is adorned with fuitable quotations, and in the centre the following appears, " Within this pleafing retirement, allured by the mufic of the nightingale, which warbled in fofc unifon to the melody of his foul, in unaffeded chearfulnefs, and ' genial though Ample elegance, lived James Thomfon. Senfibly alive to all the beauties of nature, he painted their images as they rofe in review, and poured the whole profufion of them into his inimitable Seafons. Warmed with intenfe devotion to the So- vereign 90 A TOUR FROM He was buried at the weft end of the north ifle of Richmond church. There was nothing to point out the fpot, till a brafs tablet with the fol- lowing infcription was put up by the Earl of Buchan, " In the earth, below this tablet are the remains of James Thomfon, author of the beau- tiful poems, entitled the Seafons, the Caftle of Indolence, &c. who was buried here Auguft 29, 1748. The Earl of Buchan, unwilling that fo good a man and fweet a poet mould be without a memorial, has denoted the place of his inter- ment for the fatisfaction of his admirers, in the year 1792." Underneath, are the following lines from his Winter : " Father of Light and Life, —Thou Good Supreme ! O, teach me what is good ! teach me Thyfelf ! Save me from folly, vanity and vice, From every low purfuit ! and feed my foul With knowledge, confcious peace, and virtue pure, Sacred, fubftantial, never fading blifs. A little below Richmond bridge, the view up the river through the arches, of the feats and park, exceeds all defcription, and is well worthy the attention of thofe fpirited gentlemen, who are publifhing a hiftory of the Thames. This famous river takes its rife from a fpring, which is fcreign of the univerfe, its flame glowing through all his com- positions ; animated with unbounded benevolence, with the ten- dered focial fenfibility, he never gave one moment's pain to any of his fellow creatures,- fave only at his death, which happened at Richmond, Auguft 22, 1748. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 91 is almoft dry in fummer, within two miles of Cirencefter. At Lechdale, 138 miles from Lon- don, it is joined by the Lech and the Coin, and there becomes navigable for veflfels of ninety tons burthen. Running by Godflow nunnery, where fair Rofamond was interred, it reaches the acade- mic groves of Oxford, where it is joined by the Charwell, and thence continues its courfe to Reading forming a boundary to the counties of Berks, Bucks, Surry, Middlefex, EfTex and Kent. Among many other fmall towns and villages, on its bank (land Henley, Windfor, Hampton, Kingfton, Twickenham, Ifleworth, Richmond, Brentford, Kew, Putney, Batterfea, Chelfea and Lambeth. Then on the north fide are Weftmin- fler and London ; on the oppofite fide Southwark ; forming together one continued city, extending to Limehoufe and Deptford. The painter and the poet have exerted all their ikill to defcribe the beauties, which the banks of this river dilplay from Windfor to London, but they found it im- poflible. The magnificent feats adorned by art and nature ; the extenfive lawns and highly im- proved gardens ; the boats and barges for plea- fure and burthen, are highly pleafmg ; whilft the innumerable mails, which extend like a forefl to Deptford, mult give the aflonifhed flranger an idea of the widely extended commerce, and vaft opulence of London. Dyer has well defcribed the river in the following lines : See 92 A TOUR FROM See the filver maze Of {lately Thamis, ever chequer 'd o'er With deeply laded veficis, gliding fmooth And conftant as his flream ; in growing pomp,' By Neptune ftill attended, flow he rolls To great Augufta's mart, where lofty trade, Amid a thonfand golden fpires enthron'd, Gives audience to the world. From this excellent excurfion on the water, 'we landed at Strawberry-hill, whofe Gothic front is deeply embofomed in venerable trees, and Strikes with facred awe the penfive mind. The Honourable Mr. Horace Walpole, now Earl of Orford, has been long diftinguifhed, and univerfally efleemed, not only for his refined tafle, and correct judgment in literature and painting, but for his learned writings and his amiable qua- lities as a mam. The houfe is formed from va- rious ancient models and felecl: parts of churches and chapels, and was built at different times by his lordfhip whofe tafte is difplayed in ornament- ing the edifice, and in his choice of the valuable paintings, fculpture and antiquity which it con- tains, many of which were purchafed in the mod diflant parts of Europe. The approach to the houfe through lofty trees, the embattled walls overgrown with ivy, the fpiry pinnacles, the grave air of the building, give it all the ap- pearance of an old abbey ; efpecially on entering the gate, where there is a fmall oratory, inclofed v- hh iron rails. In this houfe Colley Gibber wrote his DUBLIN TO LONDON. 93 his comedy, called the Refufal, and the celebrated French divine Pere Courayer refided here. Lord John Sackville afterwards took the houfe, and in 1748 Mr. Walpole purchafed the fee-fimple of it. In 1753 he began his improvements, when the library and great parlour were built ; the gal- lery and round tower in 1760 and 1761, and the Beauclerk tower in 1776. On entering the houfe you are led through 1 fmall hall and paflage, lighted with painted glafs windows, into a large parlour, hung with the portraits of Sir Robert Walpole, his two wives and children, and other family pictures ; one of which, by Reynolds, contains the portraits of the three Ladies Waldegrave, daughters of the Dutchefs of Gloucefler. The window has many pieces of painted glafs, as have all the windows in every room, and the chimney-piece, chairs, table, &c. are Gothic ; as are alfo moil of the chimney pieces and furniture throughout the houfe. The fame (Hie of architecture which was adopted in building the houfe prevails in the internal decorations ; each room having Gothic fkreens, niches or chimney pieces, moflly defigned by Mr. Walpole himfelf, and adapted with much tafte to their refpective fituations. Mod of the windows are ornamented with ftained glafs, which on a bright day has a very good effect, and adds a richnefs to the rooms. To defcribe the va- luable collection at this villa, fo peculiarly into*- reftinff 94 A TOUR FROM refting to the virtuofo, and the antiquarian, would fill a large volume. We can only endeavour to point out fome of the mod valuable articles. In the great parlour are feveral portraits, among which are Sir Robert Walpole, Earl of Orford, the prefent earl, and a converfation in fmall life, an early production of Sir jofhua Reynolds. The chimney piece in the little parlour is taken from the tomb of Ruthal, bimop of Durham in Weft- miniler abbey. In this room are Mrs. Dumer's admired model of two dogs in terra-cotta; a drawing in water colours, by Mifs Agnes Berry, from Mr. William Locke's death of Wolfey, *■* In deep contrition's pangs proud Wolfey dies, Ye proud, behold his portrait and be wife." In the blue breakfafting room are the very beautiful miniatures of the Digby family by Peter Oliver, and in the adjacent clofet a portrait of Sarah Malcolm, painted by Hogarth the day before (he was executed for the murder of Lydia Duncomb, her miftrefs, and two fervants. There are many other pieces of Mrs. Darner's fine fculpture, and curious ebony chairs in feveral of the rooms. On the ftaircafe is the rich fuit of armour of gilt fteel, which belonged to Francis I. King of France. The chimney piece in the li- brary is taken from the tomb of John, Earl of Cornwall, in Weftminfler abbey. The books of which there is a valuable collection, particularly of Englifli hifiory and antiquities, are ranged within DUBLIN TO LONDON. 95 within Gothic arches of pierced wood. In this room is a clock of filver, gilt, which was a pre- fent from Henry VIII. to Anne Bullen, and a fkreen of the firft tapeftry made in England, being a map of Middlefex. Defcription cannot do juftice to the fplendour and elegance of the gallery, which is fifty-fix feet long, and thirteen wide. The ceiling is copied from Henry VII. chapel, ornamented with gilt fret work. In this room is the famous eagle found near Caracalla's bath at Rome in 1742, one of the flneft pieces of fculpture in the world. The moft remarkable pictures are the marriage of Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York ; Sir George Villiers by Janfen ; Sir Godfrey Kneller, by himfelf ; Mary Queen of France, and Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk ; the Earl of Sandwich, by Sir Peter Lely ; Frances, Countefs of Exeter, by Vandyke. At the end of the gallery is a cir- cular drawing room, the chimney piece of which was defigned from the tomb of Edward the Con- feffor in Weftminiter-abbey. The cabinet is a fmall fquare room, with a femicircular recefs in each fide. A ftar of yellow glafs on the top throws a deceitful made over the room, which makes every thing appear as if gilt. In this room is the ineftimable cabinet of enamels and minia- tures, containing portraits by Petitot, Zincke and Oliver. In the glafs cafes are fome exquifite fpe- cimens of art ; particularly a fmall bronze bud of Caligula, with filver eyes, found at Hercula- neum 96 A TOUR FROM neum, and given to Lord Orford, by Sir Horace Mann ; and the beautiful filver bell of Benve- nuto Cellini, the celebrated Italian artid. In one of the recedes, on an antique pededal, is a noble bud of Vefpafian, in black marble. In the other recefs, on an antique pedeftal, adorned with fatyrs heads, and foliage, in relief, (lands the famous eagle, of Greek workmanfhip, one of the fined pieces of fculpture known : it was found in the Baths of Caracalla at Rome. On, and under the tables, are other pieces of ancient fculpture, in buds and urns. On the Japan cabinets are fome choice fpecimens of Roman earthen ware, finely painted and well preferved. In the windows, and other parts of the room, are feveral good bronzes. In the north bed-chamber is a very curious pi&ure of Henry VIII. and his children ; Madam de Maintenon ; Ninon de l'Enclos ; and Ho- garth's fketch of the Beggar's Opera, containing portraits of the original performers. In the Beauclerk clofet are Lady Diana Beauclerk's beautiful drawings ; happily defigned from the mod interefting fcences in the tragedy of the Myderious Mother. The library over the circular drawing room contains an extenfive collection of engraved Englifh prints and portraits bound in volumes by Faithorn, Hogarth, and the mod eminent artifts. In a corner of the garden, en- circled with trees, dands a neat Gothic chapel,, erefted on purpofe to contain a curious fhrine, or DUBLIN TO LONDON. 97 cr mofaic monument, fent from Rome, the work of Peter Cavalini. Lord Orford has obliged the literary world with feveral books. His play of The Myfterious Mother fhews how intimately he is acquainted, with all the paffions and recefies of the human bread ; while his lively and affecting defcriptions of virtue and vice make a deep im- preflion on the attentive reader. Speaking of the fublime pleafure we received in this charming fpot, Henry immediately repeated the following lines from his lordfhip's play, " Pleafure has charms ; — fo has virtue too : One fkims the furface, like the fwallow's wing, And feuds away unnoticed. T'other nymph, Like fpodefs fwans in folemn majefty, Breads the fullfurge, and leaves long light behind !" The cabinet is a little room beyond concep- tion fplendid and enchanting. Entire windows of painted glafs, in which are large heads of Chriit and two Apoftles furrounded with beautiful mo- faics ; a large ftar of yellow flamed glafs in the centre of the dome: the carpet, imitating the mofaic of the windows and the flar in the ceil- ing ; and the gilt mouldings and ornaments ; all confpire to throw fuch a golden gloom over the whole room as to give it the folemn air of a Rcmifh chapel ; efpecially when firfl viewed through the grated door. The pictures, bronzes, antiquities, gems and curiofities, are too nume- rous to be detailed. But one thing we mud no- tice ; and that is, a fmall filver bell of the moft Vol. II. H exquiiite. 9* A TOUR FROM cxquifitc workmanlhip, covered over with lizards, grafshoppers, and other infects, in the higheft relief, by Benvenuto Cellini. In feveral parts of the houfe are pieces of fculpture, and modellings in terra-cotta, by the Honourable Mrs. Darner ; and drawings and modellings in wax, by Lady Diana Beauclerk. The garden is laid out in the modern ftile ; and, in the encircling wood, is a neat Gothic chapel, erected on purpofe to contain a curious mofaic monument (fent from Rome) the work of Peter Cavalini, who made the tomb of Edward the ConfelTor in Weftminfter-abbey. Adjoining the wood is the delightful retreat of the late Mrs. Give the a&refs, which Mr. Wal- pole gave to her for her life ; and in the gardens of which, fince her death, he has placed an urn, adorned with mafks, on a pedeftal, and the fol- lowing lines, to her memory : Ye Smiles and Jeffs, (till hover round ; This is Mirth's confecrated ground : Here liv'd the laughter-loving dame, A matchlefs aclrefs, Clive her name, The Comic Mufe with her retir'd, And (hed a tear when (he expir'd. H. W.. Lord Orford, in the year 1757, fitted up a printing prefs near his houfe, where, among a number of other books and fmall tracts, the fol- lowing were neatly and correctly printed. Anec- dotes of Painting, in four volumes quarto ; Ca- talogue of royal and noble Authors, two volumes o&avo ; N v DUBLIN TO LONDON. 99 octavo ; Fugitive Pieces, one volume octavo ; the Myflerious Mother, a tragedy ; and a Letter to the Editor of Chatterton's Mifcellanies, all writ- ten by his lordfhip. Happy would it be for many of our nobility if they paffed a part of their time in the fame rational and entertaining man- ner. The worthy pofTeHbr of Strawberry-hill never refufes a written order to curious perfons, to view his houfe and collection, without which it cannot be feen ; nor is it ever (hewn, only be- tween the hours of twelve and three, from the firft of May to the firft of October. Let the poet, the hiftorian, the painter, the fculptor, the admirer of Gothic beauty vifit this fpot, and they will have the fatisfaction of feeing fuch a rare treafure as cannot be feen in any other part of Europe, communicating to the enraptured mind the mingled emotions of furprize and pleafure, and awakening all the tendered affections of the foul: There Painting fliews the wonders of her art, Gains on the fenfe, and captivates the heart ; From mimic pencils new creations rife, Start into life, and wear its native dyes. From Twickenham we got into the great weft- em road at Brentford, and pafling Sion-houfe, the feat of the Duke of Northumbeland ; Gun- nerfbury-houfe, the late Princefs Amelia's ; Chif~ wick, the Duke of Devonfhire's ; Holland-houfe, Mr. Bearcroft's, we came to Kenfmgton, which is a large populous village, two miles from Hyde- H a park ico A T O U R F R O M park corner. The Palace, which was the feat of Lord Chancellor Finch, afterwards Earl of Nottingham, was purchafed by William III. who greatly enlarged it, as Queen Mary did the gar- dens. They were farther improved by Queen Anne, and Queen Caroline completed the defign by extending them confiderably farther, at pre- fent being three miles and a half in compafs. They were laid out partly by Wife and partly by Kent, but have been much improved fmce the time of the latter. In the noble green houfe, Queen Anne and her confort Prince George of Denmark, frequently fupped in the fummer fea- fon. As none of the Royal Family refide in this palace, free admiffion is given into the gardens, which are much reforted to by company riding and walking from London. The palace is an irregular building, but contains many grand apartments, which are adorned with a great va- riety of valuable paintings. There are likewife feme good buds by Ryfbrack, and fine tapeftry by Vanderbank. In the ftate dreffing room are hangings of needle work, a prefent from the Queen of Pruffia, alfo an amber cabinet, and a beautiful orrery, In the Queen's gallery are the portraits of King William and Queen Mary, for the painting of which Kneller was knighted. Arrived in the buftle of Hyde-park, we foon got to our hotel in Piccadilly, where we congra- gratulated each other on our arrival, after a moft agreeable and pleafing tour. Henry now con- cluded "DUBLIN TO LONDON. 101 eluded with the four lines in the title page, and we proceed to give a concife view of the origin and extent of London. Without attempting to wander into the remote regions of legendary nar- ration, we may be allowed to conjecture that London was a place of much refort anterior to the invafion of Britain by Julius Casfar ; and on the arrival of that prince in England was the capital of the Trinobantes, one of the many fmall nations into which Britain was formerly divided. In the reign of Nero, London, as reprefented by Tacitus, was become a city famous for the great concourfe of merchants who reforted to it ; a fuffi- cient indication that it muft have been founded long before its deftruction by Boadicea, and have been, even then, of fome antiquity as a trading town. It is fituated in a very extenfive plain, through which the river Thames flows, and at the diflance of a few miles, in every direction except towards the eafi:, is furrounded by hills, which terminate the view to great advantage, forming a vaft natural amphitheatre. When the Romans became mailers of London they enlarged the precincts, and altered their form. It extended in length from Ludgate-hill to a fpot a little beyond the tower. The breadth was not half equal to the length, and at each end grew confiderably narrower. The time in which the wall was built is very uncertain, but its ancient courfe was as follows : It began with a fort 102 A TOUR FROM fort near the prefent fcite of the tower, was con- tinued along the Minories, and the back of Houndfditch, acrofs Bifhopfgate-ftreet, in a ftrait line by London-wall to Cripplegatt ; then re- turned fouthward by CrowderV Well- Alley, \1- derfgate j thence along the back of Bull and Mouth-ftreet to Newgate, and again along the back of the houfes in the Old-Bailey to Ludgate ; foon after which it probably fmifhed with another fort, where the houfe, late the King's Printing- Houfe, in Black-Friars, now Hands : from hence another wall ran near the river fide, along Thames-ftreet, quite to the fort on the eaftern extremity. The walls, about twenty-two feet high, were three miles, a hundred and fixty-five feet in circumference, guarded at proper di (lances on the land fide with fifteen lofty towers. Thefe with the remnants of the wall and the difpofition of the tyle and mafonry, proved the Roman {fcruchire. London Wall, near Moor fields, is now the moll entire part of that ancient precinct. London, the metropolis of Great Britain, one of the largefl and moft opulent in the world, the feat of liberty, and the encourager of the arts, confiding of the cities of London and Weftmin- fter, and the borough of Southwark, in the coun- ties of Middlefex and Surry, the two former on the north fide, and the latter on the oppofite bank of the noble river Thames. In length it is above feven miles ; but its .greateft breadth is only three miles, and in fome places it is con- fiderably DUBLIN TO LONDON. 103 fiderably lefs. The curious reader, who would contraft the ancient ftate of London with its prefent prodigious extent, may find much amufe- ment, by •confulting Fitzftephen's account of it in the reign of Henry II. the plan of London as it exifted in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and Mr. Pennant's " Account of London." Of this wonderful contraft fome idea may be formed from an anecdote of the Earl of Burling- ton, related by Mr. Walpoie, in his " Anec- dotes of Painting :" When that nobleman was .afked why he built his houfe in Piccadilly, fo far out of town, he anfwered, " becaufe he was de- termined he would have no building beyond him." Little more than half a century has fo inclofed Burlington-houfe with new ftreets, that it is now in the heart of that part of the town. Before the dreadful conflagration in 1666, which fwept away 65600 inhabitants, London, wholly inelegant, inconvenient and unhealthy, arifing principally from the narrownefs of the {treets, and the projections of the buildings, which confining the putrid air, generated many peftilential diforders. On the ruins of the old the prefent city has fmce arifen, in which nothing that can conduce to the health, eafe and comfort of its numerous inhabitants, has been neglected ; and it is juftly become, in point of beauty, con- venience, and elegance, what it is in wealth and commerce, the glory of the ifland, the admi- ration of ftrangers, and the firft city in the univerfe ! The 104 A TOUR FROM The population of London and Weftminfter is more than a million, but Dr. Price's calcula- tion has reduced it to lefs, allowing only fix in- habitants to each houfe. Like all other European capitals, Naples alone excepted, its population is kept up by continual recruits from the country, and confumes 7000 perfons, who remove into it every year without encreafing its population. London contains a ninth part of the people of England, whilft Paris contains only a fifteenth part of the inhabitants of France. The increafe of buildings in London ftrikes us with aftonifh- menr, but it is afferted .thefe proceed entirely from an increafe of luxury, and prove no increase of inhabitants ; yet it is certain no place in the world pofTeffes more attractions for foreigners as well as natives. The vicinity in all directions prefents us with green houfes, hot houfes, exotics and flower?, which furniih the houfes in the city with an agreeable verdure in the dreary months of winter, and have found a very lucrative branch of cultivation. In no part of the world are more laborious manufactures carried on, particularly the follow- ing, to a confiderable extent : Foundries for iron and brafs Hats of various forts. Flatting mills, Silks and callico, Oil and corn mills, Genoa velvet, White lead mills. Gauze, Tobacco and fnuft manufdclo- Hofiery, ries, Pins and needles, Sail making, Mufical inirruments, Sho: DUBLIN TO LONDON. 105 Shot and tin manufactories, Mathematical inftruments, Letter foundries, Clocks and watches, Printing on types and copper, Jewellery, Engraving, Glafs making and ftaining, Tanning, Leather drefting, Cutlery and polifhed fteel, Guns and fwords, Coaches and cabinet work, China ware. Wedge wood's wares, Various potteries, Statuary and marble works. Carpets and floor cloths, Paper hanging, Gold and filver work, Silver plating, Refining and fmelting, Gold beating, Dying and Pruffian blue. Turpentine works, Starch, Soap and candles, Coopering, Sugar baking, Diih'lling and brewing, Wine and vinegar, Bricks and tiles. Weftminfter, which was once a mile from Lon- don, but is now completely united to it, is a diftinct city, the civil and ecclefiaftical govern- ment of which were once veiled in the dean and chapter of Weftminfter ; but, fmce the Re- formation, the civil part has been committed to laymen. The high fteward, who is generally a nobleman of rank, is chofen by the dean and chapter, and has an under fteward who officiates for him ; but his appointment mull be confirmed by the dean and chapter. The under fteward, with other magistrates, keeps the court-leet, which tries all petty offences ; and he is com- monly a chairman of the quarter feffions. Next to him is the high-bailiff, chofen alfo by the dean and chapter. His power refembles that of a (he- riff j for by him juries are fummoned, and all the io6 A TOUR FRO M the bailiffs of Weftminfler are fubordinate to him, and he makes the return at the election of mem- ber: of parliament. CHURCHES. To begin with the buildings of this great me^ iropolis, the cathedral of St. Paul, as the moll confpicuous, claims our firft attention. This noble fabrick is 2292 feet in circumference, and 404 in height to the top of the crofs. Not for magnitude only, but for the magnificence of the building, it is efteemed inferior to none in Eu- rope, except St. Peter's at Rome. It is unne- cefTary to enter into a minute defcription of it, as the reader may find a very copious account of the whole, in a fmall book, entitled " The Cu- riofities of St. Paul's Cathedral." The infide of this church will one day be diftinguifhed for a magnificence unknown to our anceftors, and even to the prefent age : it is now deftined to be the receptacle of the monuments of fuch illuflrious men as may hereafter do honour to their country by their talents and their virtues. Two have been creeled in 1796; the fir ft for that great philan- thropic John Howard, Efq; and the fecond for the celebrated Dr. Samuel Johnfon. The names of a Iieathfield, a Cook and a Reynolds, have likewife been mentioned, as highly worthy of being diftinguiihed ; and the Houfe of Commons have actually voted that a monument to the ho- noured memory of Lord Rodney mould be placed in this Temple of the Britifh Worthies. In DUBLIN TO LONDON. 107 In the courfe of thirty-five years was this mighty fabrick, lofty enough to be feen at fea eaftward, and at Windfor weftward, began and finilhed by one architect, one principal mafon, and under one Bifhop of London, Dr. Henry Compton. The charge was fupported chiefly by a fmall and eafy impofition on fea-coal. Weftminfter Abbey, the conventual church of St. Peter, is a noble fpecimen of Gothic archi- tecture. This church is faid to have been founded by Sebert, King of the Eaft Saxons, in the year 610. Having been deftroyed by the Danes, it was rebuilt by Edward the Confefibr in 1066. " An abbey," fays .Mr. Pennant, " is nothing without relics. Here was to be found the veil, and lb me of the milk of the virgin ; the blade- bone of St. Benedict ; the finger of St. Alphage ; the head of St. Maxilla ; and half the jaw-bone of St. Anaftafia." Henry III. pulled down the Saxon pile, and began to build the prefent mag- nificent ltrudture in 1245. The great work was carried on flowly by fucceeding princes ; but it can hardly be faid to be finilhed before the time of Sir Chriftbpher Wren, who built the two towers at the weft end. This church is 360 feet in length within the walls ; at the nave it is 72 broad, and at the crofs 195. Here moft of our monarebs have been crowned, and many of them interred. It gives them crown?, and Joes their allies keep : There made like Gods, like mortals there they fleep : Making the circle of their reign complete, Thefe funs of empire, where they rife they let. Wall- r. St. io8 ATOURFROM St. Stephen's, Walbrook, is a fmall church, of exquifite beauty, the mafter-piece of Sir Chrifto- pher Wren. " Perhaps Italy itfelf," fays a ju- dicious writer, " can produce no modern build- ing that can vie with this in tafte and proportion. There is not a beauty which the plan would ad- mit of that is not to be found here in the greater!: perfection ; and foreigners, very juflly, call our tafte in queftion, for understanding the graces no better, and allowing it no higher degree of fame." — Over the altar is a beautiful picture of the martyrdom of St. Stephen, by Weft, prefi- dent of the Royal Academy. The character of the faint is fully expreued in his angelic counte- nance, refigned to his fate, and full of fure and certain hope. Befides thefe churches, that belonging to the Temple, one of our celebrated feats of law, merits particular attention. It was founded by the Knights Templars in the reign of Henry II. upon the model of that of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerufalem. The reader will find a full de- fcription of this church, and its curious ancient monuments, in Mr. Pennant's Account. Among the illuftrious perfons of later date, interred in this church, were the celebrated lawyer Plowden, treafurer of the Temple 1572, (of whom Cam- den fays, that in integrity he was fecond to none of his profemon) and Selden, the beft fkilled of any man in the conftitution and various branches of antiquity ; but who, toward the clofe DUBLIN TO LONDON. 109 clofe of his life, was fo convinced of the vanity of all human knowledge, as to fay, that the nth, 1 2th, 13th and 14th verfes of the fecond chapter of the Epiftle to Titus afforded him more confolation than all he had ever read. There are likewife a great number of chapels for the eftabliftied church, foreign proteflant churches, Roman catholic chapels, meetings for the diffenters of all perfuafions, and three fyna- gogues for the Jews. PALACES AND PARKS. The magnificence of royalty is not to be found in the palaces of the metropolis. The palace of St. James was originally an hofpital for leprous females, dedicated to that faint. It was furren- dered to Henry VIII. who erected on its fcite the prefent palace. He likewife laid out a large piece of ground adjoining into a park, formed a canal and walks, calling it in conformity to the former name of the contiguous building, St. James's Park. Charles II. enlarged and improved this fpot, adorning it with plantations of trees. The circumference of it is near a mile and a half. This park has been rendered one of the mod delightful fpots in the kingdom, by the genius of the late Mr. Brown, that diftinguifhed pupil of the great Kent, who, in the moft happy manner, adopted and improved thefe principles of garden- ing which were laid down by his predeceflbr. The beauty of this park is heightened by its being contiguous to another of lefs extent, called " The no A TOUR FROM " The Green Park." ' In this too is a fine piece of water on the mod elevated part. This is re- cruited every tide from the Thames, by the water- works at Chelfea ; and it forms a refervoir for the fupply of the houfes in the neighbouring dif- tridl. Here the deputy ranger, Lord William Gordon, has a very neat lodge, furrounded by a fhrubbery, that renders it enchantingly rural, although fo near the houfes in Piccadilly. A fine afcent in this park, called " Conflitution-hiiy from the falubrity of the air, leads to Hyde-park, another royal demefne. This is adorned with a noble piece of water, called " the Serpentine Ri- ver," and with diversified plantations of various kinds of trees, which, together with its elevated fituation, commanding rich and extenfive views, render it a very captivating fcene. In the mod favourable fituation which St. James's Park could furnifh, flands a fuperb build- ing, erected by Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, in 1703, and called Buckingham-houfe, until it was purchafed in 1761 for the purpofe of making it the Royal refidence, when it acquired the name of the Queen's-palace. In 1773 the parliament fettled this houfe upon the Queen, in cafe fhe mould furvive his Majefly, in lieu of Somerfet- houfe. Here is a fine collection of prints, and a great variety of pictures, by the moil eminent mailers. Cariton-houfe, the refidence of the Prince of Wales, the gardens extending to St. James's Park, DUBLIN TO LONDON. 1 1 1 Park, is a (lately building, on which vafl fums have for fome years been expended. The por- tico to the grand front toward Pall-mall is truly elegant. The Banqueting-houfe at Whitehall was begun in 1 619, from a defign by Inigo Jone3. It is only a fmall part of the vafl: plan of a palace that was intended to be worthy of the refidence of the Britiih monarchs, but which was left in- complete on account of the unhappy time that followed. The ceiling of this noble room was painted by Rubens, who had 3000I. for his work. The fubject is the apotheofis of James I. It forms nine compartments. One of the middle repre- fents our pacific Monarch on his earthly throne, turning with horror from Mars and other dif- cordant deities, and giving himfelf up, as it were, to the amiable goddefs he had always adored, and to her attendants, Commerce and all the Fine Arts. A few years ago this ceiling underwent a repair by the mafterly hand of the late Mr. Cipriani. — Little did James think that he was erecting a pile from which his fon was to ftep from the throne to the fcaffold ! — The Ban- queting-houfe has been, for many years pad, con- verted into a chapel ; and George I. granted a falary of 30I. a year to twelve clergymen (Tix from Oxford, and fix from Cambridge) who officiate a month each. COURTS 112 A TOUR FROM COURTS OF JUSTICE. Weilminfter-hall, now the feat of parliament, and of the courts of law, (lands on the fcite of a royal palace built by Edward the Confeffor. The flairs to it on the river Hill keep the name of Pa- lace Hairs ; and the two palace yards belonged alfo to this extenlive pile. Many parts of it exift to this day, appropriated to other ufes. The great hall was built by William Rufus, or poflibly rebuilt ; a great hall being then too neceflary an appendage to a palace ever to have been neglected. It became ruinous before the reign of Richard II. who rebuilt it in its prefent form, and, in 1399, kept his Chriflmas in it, with his chara&eriftical magnificence ; the number of his guefls, each day, being ten thoufand. — This great hall ex- ceeds, in dimenfion, any in Europe, which is not fupported by pillars. Its length is 270 feet; the breadth 74 ; and its height in proportion. The Guildhall of the city, fituated at the end of King-flreet, Cheapfide, was built in the year 1431. Its great hall is 153 feet long, fifty broad, and fifty- eight high ; in which are placed two tremendous wooden giants, the pictures of fe- veral of the kings and queens of England, and of twelve judges who diflinguifhed themfelves in determining the difference between landlords and tenants, on rebuilding the city, after the fire. Here is likewife a fine pidlure of Lord Chief Juf- tice Pratt, late Earl Camden j a marble whole- length ftatue of Mr. Beckford, who was twice lord DUBLIN TO LONDON. 113 lord mayor ; and another more magnificent ceno- taph, to the late Earl of Chatham, both exe- cuted by Bacon. MILITARY AND NAVAL OFFICES. The Tower, to the eaft of London bridge, is a very ancient ftructure, in which is the white tower, founded by William the Conqueror, in 1078. It is furrounded by a wall and ditch, which inclofe feveral ftreets, befide the building called the Tower. Here are fome artillery ; a magazine of fmall arms for 60,000 men, ranged in beautiful order ; and a horie armoury, in which are fifteen figures of our kings on horfeback ; and the civil branch of the office of ordnance. Here are likewife the crown and other regalia, the mint, and the menagerie for wild beafts and and foreign birds. The circumference of the whole is about a mile. It contains one parifh church, and is under the command of a conflable and lieutenant governor.— The Tower was a pa- lace during 500 years, and only ceafed to be fo on the acceffion of Queen Elizabeth. Here fell the meek ufurper, Henry VI. by the dagger of the profligate Gloucefter. Here, full of horrors, died, by the hands of hired ruffians, the unfteady Clarence. Who can read, without fhuddering, his dreadful dream, which Shakefpeare makes him re- late to the lieutenant ? And here the fweet inno- cents, Edward VI. and his brother the Duke of York, fell victims to the ambition of their remorfe- lefs uncle ! And the empoifoning of Sir 'Thomas Vol. II. 1 Oveibury H4 A TOUR FROM Overbury makes up the fum of the known mur- ders, the reproaches of our ancient fortrefs. Here there is a ftrait room or dungeon, called from the mifery the unhappy occupier of this very con- fined place endures, the Little Eafe. But this will appear a luxurious habitation, when compared with the inventions of the age of Louis XI. of France ; with his iron cages, in which perfons of rank lay for whole years ; or his Oubliettes, dungeons made in form of reverfed cones, concealed with trap-doors, down which dropped the unhappy victims of the tyrant, brought there by Triftan PHermite, his companion and executioner in or- dinary. Sometimes their fides were plain, fome- times fet with knives, or (harp-edged wheels j but in either cafe they were true Oubliettes. The frrft who fufFered here by the axe, was Sir Simon de Burley, knight of the Garter, tutor of Richard II. and the mofl accomplifhed man of his time, who fell a victim in 1388 to the malice of the potent faction which had ufurped the regal authority. Queen Anne went on her knees to the Duke of Gloucefter, the King's uncle, to implore mercy ; and continued in that attitude before the inexorable tyrant three hours. One perfon of rank fufFered here by the more infamous way of the halter. • Sir Jervis Eiwayes, lieutenant of the Tower, fufFered here in 1615, for his concern in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury. Being much addicted to gaming, he ufed to fay feriouily in his prayers " Lord, let me DUBLIN TO LONDON. 115 me be hanged if ever I play more :" and yet he broke this ferious prayer a thoufand times, little imagining that there was a Power capable to detect and to punifh. The body of the confcientious amiable prelate Fifher, Bifhop of Rochefter, was finally removed to this church : he fell a victim to his opinion of the pope's fupremacy, and the treachery of the Attorney-general Rich, who, under pretence of confulting him, obtained his confidence, and be- trayed him. The pope rewarded his orthodoxy with a cardinal's hat, but it did not arrive till the poor bifhop's head was on a pole on London bridge. His headlefs corpfe was removed, to be near that of his friend, who fuffered about three weeks after, in the fame caufe, the great Sir Thomas More. But his body did not long keep company with that of his brother fufferer, nor his head on the bridge. His affectionate daugh- ter, Margaret Roper, procured the one to be removed to Chelfea ; and the head accidentally blown into the Thames, to be given to her. She kept it during life as a relique, and directed that after her death it mould be lodged in her arms and buried with her. Here reft the beauteous Anna Bullen, who fell on May 19th, 1536, for a fictitious charge of adultery, by a tyrant lufting for a new object; and the profligate Catharine Howard, but on a full conviction of the fame crime. George, lord 1 2. Rochfort, ll6 A TOUR FROM Rochford, the innocent brother of the former, involved in the accufation, preceded her to the grave by two days ; as his infamous wife, a caufe of their death, accompanied, unpitied, her mif- trefs Catharine Howard, in execution and in fe- pulchre. Beneath the communion table repofes the hand- fome, reftlefs, ungrateful fon of Charles II. the Duke of Monmouth. His ambition, like that of many of thofe he followed to this place, occa- fioned his death. He is faid to have died calmly ; and to have acknowledged the guilt of rebellion : but love preferved her influence to the laft. mo- ment. He was married very young and for inte- refted motives. He had made a connection of the mod tender nature with Lady Harriet Went- worth, who lived with him as his wife. He could not, with all the arguments of our bed divines, be convinced of the fin of adultery ; he called her the choice of his ripened years. Lady Har- riet had placed herfelf in a window, to take a laft and farewell look : he was mailer enough of himfelf to make her a graceful bow. The king, on the evening of the execution, vifited the wi- dowed duchefs, to give affurance of his attention to her and her children. Within the Tower, on the green before the chapel, was beheaded the accomplimed Lord HaftingS. His fidelity to the children of his late mailer Edward IV. was the caufe of his death. He was dragged from the council table, by order of DUBLIN TO LONDON. 117 of their ambitious prote&or, Gloucefter, who fwore he would have his head before he dined ; and fuch was his hafte, that the unfortunate lord had only time to make a fhort fhrift to a pried who cafiially pafTed by, and his head was taken off on a log which happened to lie in the way. So little did he expect death, that, fcarcely an hour before, he was exulting in the fate of his enemies, Lord Rivers, Lord Richard Grey, and Sir Thomas Vaughan, at PontefracT: ; yet all four underwent the ftroke of the headfman on the fame day. See Sir Thomas More's hiftory of Richard III. Elizabeth, wife of Henry VII. breathed her lafl here in child-bed in 1502. Here died, in September 1592, Sir John Per- rot, the fuppofed fon of Henry VIII. by Mary wife to Thomas Perrot, Efq; of Haroldftone in the county of Pembroke. In his great flature, and high fpirit, he bore a flrong refemblance of that monarch. Young Perrot firft attracted his notice by an engagement he had with two of the yeomen of the guard, whom he foiled in a quar- rel he had at the ftews in Southwark. He was in high favour in the following reign. In that of Mary he fell into difgrace, on account of his at- tachment to the reformed religion. When Queen Elizabeth fucceeded, he experienced the fmiles of his fovereign and filler. At length he was conflituted Lord Deputy of Ireland, where he grew very unpopular, by reafon of his haughty conduct: ; Ii8 A TOUR FROM conduct ; was recalled, unjuflly accufed, and condemned of treafon. His fentence was refpited ; but he died of a broken heart, unable from his lofty fpirit, to brook the ill-treatment he met with from one he thought fo near an ally. The fallen Lord Chancellor JefFeries, the cruel infhument of defpotifm under James II. died, imprifoned here, of a broken heart, aided by intemperance. Whilfl here, he received, as he thought, a prefent of fome Colchefter oyfters, and expreffed great fatisfaction at the thought of having fome friend left : but on taking off the top of the barrel, appeared an halter. Here was bafely confined, by Henry III. Gryffydd, father of the laft Welch Prince Llewelyn ap Gryffydd j who impatient of im- prifonment, attempted to efcape by lowering him- ielf from . the walls : the line he was defcending by broke, and, being of a great bulk, he was darned to pieces, and perifhed in a mod miferable manner. The Horfe-guards, a very light and elegant ftru&ure, was rebuilt in 1754, at the expenfe of 30,0001. It (lands oppofite the Banqueting-houfe. It contains apartments for the officers and pri- vates of the life-guards, a troop of which con- flantly do duty here. The War-office is in this place, and here courts martial for the army are occafionally held. * The Ordnance office, for the military depart- ment, is a handfome (lone building in St. Mar- garet's- DUBLIN TO LONDON. 119 garet's-ftreet, Weftminfter. That for the civil is in the Tower. The Admiralty, which was rebuilt in the late reign by Ripley, is a large ftructure, the clum- finefs of which is veiled, in fome degree, by a handfome fcreen, defigned by one of the Adelphi architects. Here the higher departments of the bufinefs of the navy are tranfacted, and the lords of the admiralty have convenient houfes ; thai of the firft lord, a new erection, adjoining to the main building. There are other naval offices at Somerfet-place. OFFICES COMMERCIAL AND FISCAL, The Royal Exchange, the refort of all the na- tions of the world, rifes before us with the full majefty of commerce. Whether we confider the grandeur of the edifice, or the vaft concerns tranfacted within its walls, we are equally (truck with its importance. The original ftruclure was built in 1567, by Sir Thomas Grefham, then one of the greateft merchants in the world. In 1570, Queen Elizabeth went to the Bourfe, as it was then called, vifited every part, and then by found of trumpet, proclaimed it the Royal Exchange. The Bank of England, a magnificent ftruclure, is fituated in Threadneedle-ftreet. The centre, and the building behind, were erected in 1733. Before that time the bufinefs was carried on in Grocer's-hall. The front is a kind of veftibule ; the bafe rufl.ic, the ornamented columns above, ionic. Within is a court leading to a fecond ele- gant I2o A TOUR FROM gant building, containing the hall, and other offices. Within a few years have been added two wings of uncommon elegance, defigned by the late Sir Robert Taylor. The Cuftom-houfe, to the weft of the Tower, is a large irregular ftructure of brick and ftone, before which mips of 350 tons can lie and dif- charge their cargoes. It was built in 17 18, on the defb uctiom by hre, of a former cuftom-houfe, on the fame fpot. In Mr, Pennant's Account of London are fome curious particulars of the pro- duce of the cuftoms at different times, from the years 1268, when the half-year's cuftoms, for foreign merchandize in the city of London, came only to 75I. 6s. iod. to the quarter ending April 5, 1789, when the produce for the year amountecj to 3,71 1,126!. One of the moft beautiful remains of the ar- chitecture of the fixteenth century was Somerfet- houfe, built by the Lord Protector in the reign of Edward VI. But this building has been de- molifhed to make way for the expanded grandeur of Somerfet-place : which magnificent ftructure was begun to be built, according to the plan of Sir William Chambers, when the nation was en- gaged in a ruinous war with America, France and Spain : it has already coft 334,7031, and remains in an unfinifhed ftate ; the eftimate of the ex- penfe of completing, as delivered to the Houfe of Commons by Sir William Chambers in Fe- bruary 1790, was 33,5001. The DUBLIN TO LONDON. ill The front to the Thames is erected on a noble terrace, fifty. three feet wide; and the building, when finifhed, will extend about i ioo feet. This terrace, which is unparalleled for grandeur and beauty of view, is fupported on a rough ruflic bafement, adorned with a lofty arcade of thirty- two arches, each twelve feet wide, and twenty- four high. The grand femicircular arch in the middle of the bafement is that intended for the reception of the King's barges. The length of the arcade is happily relieved by projections, diftinguifhed by rufticated columns of the Ionic order. Near the parade, in St. James's Park, is the Treafury, which has a noble elevated front. Gloomy and maffy paffages lead through it into Downing-ftreet and White-hall. What is called " The Cockpit,'* forms a part of this building, and is now the council-chamber for the cabinet minifters. THE MONUMENT. This noble column was erected in commemo- ration of the great fire in 1666, when the damage occafioned by the devouring element was efti- mated at 10,716,0001. It was begun in 1671, and finifhed in 1677, by Sir Chriftopher Wren. It is a fluted Doric column, 202 feet high. On the weft fide of the pedeftal is a bafs relief, cut by Gabriel Cibber. BRIDGES. London bridge, to the weft of the Tower, was firft built of wood, about the beginning of the eleventh 122 A TOUR FROM eleventh century. The prefent {lone bridge was begun in 1 176, and finifhed in 1209. The length of it is 915 feet, the exact breadth of the river in this part. The number of arches was nineteen, of unequal dimenfions, and greatly deformed by the enormous (tellings, and by houfes on each fide, which over-hung and leaned in a terrific manner. Thefe were removed in 1756, when the upper part of the bridge aflumed a modern and very noble appearance. Weftminfter-bridge, univerfally allowed to be the fined in the world, was built by Mr. Charles Labelye, a native of Switzerland. The firft ftone was laid on the 29th of January 1739; the lad in November 1747 ; but, on account of the finking of one of the piers, the opening of the bridge was retarded till the 17th of the fame month, 1750. The whole of the fuperftruclure is of Portland (lone, except the fpandrels of the arches, which are built of Purbeck. It is 1223 feet in length. It has thirteen large and two fmall femicircular arches ; the centre arch is feventy-fix feet wide ; the other arches, on each fide, decreafmg in width four feet. The architect: afTerted, that the quantity of ftone ufed in this bridge was nearly double to that employed in St. Paul's Cathedral ; and that the whole expenfe did not exceed 218,800!. Blackfriars -bridge, that elegant addition to the magnificence of the metropolis, was built by Mr. Mylne. The (lone was laid October 30, 1760, and DUBLIN TO LONDON. 123 and the whole ftrufrure was compleated about the end of the year 1768, at the expenfe of 152,8401. 3s. iod. The length of this bridge is 995 feet ; the breadth of the carriage-way twenty- eight, and of the foot-paths feven feet each. It confifts of nine elliptical arches, the centre one of which is 100 feet wide ; and both this and the arch on each fide are wider than the celebrated Rialto at Venice. MUSEUMS. The Britifh mufeum, which is open to the public gratis, according to a prefcribed form of rules I, was founded by the parliament in 1753, in confequence of the will of Sir Hans Sloane, who :j; Such literary gentlemen as defire to ftudy in it, are to give in their names and places of abode, figned by one of the officers, to the committee ; and if no objection is made, they are per- mitted to perufe any books or manufcripts, which are brought to them by the meffenger, as foon as they come to the reading room, in the morning at nine o'clock ; and this order lafts fix months, after which they may have it renewed. There are fome curious manufcripts, however, which they are not per- mitted to perufe, unlefs they make a particular application to the committee, and then they obtain them ; but they are taken back 10 their places in the evening, and brought again in the morning. — Thofe who come to fee the curiofities are to give in their names to the porter, who enters them in a book, which is given to the principal librarian, who (bikes them off, and orders the tickets to be given in the following manner : — In May, June, July and Auguft, forty-five are admitted on Tuef- day, Wednefday, and Thurfday, viz. fifteen at nine in the forenoon, fifteen at eleven, and fifteen at one in the afternoon. On Monday and Friday fifteen are admitted at four in the after- noon, 124 A TOUR FROM who directed his executors to make an offer to the public of his valuable collection of natural and artificial curiofities and books for the fum of 2o,oool. and the noble building, called Montague- houfe, which had been built by the firft Duke of Montague, was purchafed for their reception. At the fame time were purchafed for io,oocl. the MSS. collected by Edward liarley firft Earl of Oxford. Here are Iikewife the collection by Sir Robert and Sir John Cotton ; and large funis have fmce been voted, to augment this noble re- pofitory. The Leverian Mufeum is fituated at the begin- ning of Great Surry-ftreet, on the fouth fide of Blackfriars-bridffe. This magnificent and inftruc- o o tive mufeum was collected by the late Sir Afhton Lever, and contains the mod aftonifliing collection of fpecimens in every branch of natural hiftory that had ever been formed by an individual. Another mufeum, confiding of anatomical preparations, and natural curiofities, collected by the late Dr. William Hunter, who built a fpa- cious edifice for their reception in Windmill- ftreet, Oxford-ftreet, is now open to the public, and is to continue fo for thirty years from the time of his death in 1783. Of the Inns of Court, or focieties for the ftudy of the law, the principal are the Middle and Inner Temples, noon, and fifteen at fix. The other eight months in the year, forty-five are admitted in three different companies, on Monday, Tuefday, Wednefday, Thurfday and Friday, at nine, eleven and one o'clock. DUBLIN TO LONDON. 1 25 Temples, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. Thefe are very fpacious, and have large and pleafant gar- dens, which, at certain times of the day, are open to the public. The others are Clifford's Inn, Clement's Inn, Barnard's Inn, Furnival's Inn, and Staples Inn. The Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and the Royal Academy of Artifls, have noble apart- ments in Somerfet-place. The Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Com- merce, have a handfome houfe in the Adelphi ; in the great room of which is a feries of paint- ings by Mr. Barry, which do great honour to that artift. Of the Public Seminaries, the mod diftin- guilhed are Weftminfler School, adjoining the Abbey, and, though not originally founded, yet nobly endowed by Queen Elizabeth ; St. Paul's School, founded in the beginning of the 16th century, by Dean Colet ; the Charter Houfe, founded about the fame time, both for a fchool and hofpital, by Thomas Sutton, Efq; and a School, in Suffolk-lane, Thames-ftreet, founded in 1561, by the company of Merchants Taylors. The principal hofpitals are Chriic's Hofpital, near Newgate-ftreet, a royal foundation, for or- phans and poor children ; St. Bartholomew's Hofpital, in Wed Smithfield, another royal foun- dation for the fick and lame ; Bridewell in Bridge-flreet, Blackfriars, once a royal palace, but now a royal hofpital, for the apprenticing of the induftrious 126 A T O U R, Sec. induftrious youth, and a prifon for the diflblute % Bethlem, in Moorfields, another royal hofpital for lunatics ; St. Luke's in Old-ftreet Road, alfo for lunatics ; St. Thomas's, in the Borough, the fourth royal hofpital, for the fick and lame ; and for the fame purpofe are Guy's Hofpital adjoin- ing ; the London Hofpital, in Whitechapel Road ; the Middlefex Hofpital, near Berners-ftreet ; and St George's Hofpital, near Hyde Park Corner. The Foundling Hofpital, in Lamb's Conduit Fields j the Afylum at Lambeth, for orphan girls ; the Magdalen Hofpital in St. George's Fields for penitent profnitutes ; the Marine So- ciety in Bifhopfgate-ftreet ; the Small Pox Hof- pital at Clerkenwell and Pancras ; the Weftmin- fler lying-in-Hofpital, and many others for the fame purpofe, are alfo excellent institutions. Thus London has rifen to its prefent rank of the firfl city in Europe with refpec~t to opulence ; and nearly, if not entirely fo, as to number of inhabitants. Paris and Constantinople may dif- pute the latter with it. Its population, like that of all other towns, has been greatly over rated, and is not yet exactly determined ; but it is pro- bable that the refidents in London, Weftminfter, Southwark, and all the out parifhes, exceed one million. ADDENDA, [ 127 ] ADDENDA. G RE AT events often arife from little caufes. The Hon. and Rev. Mr. Dawfon, being detained a few days at Bangor, hns explored a paffage by Lake Ogwin and Capel Kerrig, through a rocky valley to Pentra Vilas church, four miles from Kerniog Mawr. Every one who has been at the latter place knows that the road goes a circuit of 42 miles by Conway and Llanruft. If there- fore the road can be fhortened 1 8 miles and five hours faved, it will be a public fervice, as a few hours will make a material difference in convey- ing daily intelligence between the two capitals. This new road would commence mid-way be- tween the Ferry and town of Bangor ; no hill occurs except at Lake Ogwin, which may be le- velled by mining a narrow bed of rock, in which the lake is fituated ; the road will then be fub- ftituted in the place of the lake, and will run through two vallies. Inn keepers and interefted people always oppofe public improvements ; but the Irifh Parliament will not fail to encourage fuch an ufeful work, which fooner or later will be carried into execution. Ks In page 52, line. 12, read twenty colleges and four halls. [ "8 3 A N ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE NAMES CONTAINED IN THE VIEW OF DUBLIN. ALAN, Archbifliop Jofeph Addifon Doctor Aherne Surgeon Archer Rev. Gilbert Auftin Jofeph Atkinfon 52, Marquis of Abercorn Queen Anne Mr. Alexander Major Armftrong Gervais Parker Bufhe Chancellor Bowes Alexander de Bicknor Duke of Bolton Marquis of Buckingham Earl of Buckinghamfhire Bifhop Berkeley Doclor Baldwin 13, Browne, bifhop of Cork Rt. Hon. Edmund Burke Rev. Doftor Barrett 15, George Browne Sir Edward Bellew Doclor Bray Mr. Bergan Sir John Blaquiere Rt. Hon John Beresford Bifhop Bennett Arthur Browne Rev. Mr. Ball Lady Belvidere 5 26 27 28 77 55 64 76 [27 9 10 ib. ib ib 13 •4 ib ib. 52 24 25 ib 33 36 ^ 5' ib. 5 2 Rev. Dr. Burrowes 69 Sir Daniel Bellinghara 70 Mr Burton 8z Robert Barry 85 Rev. Edward Bayly 96 taajor Browne 115 Brien Boru 121 Mr Byrne 123 Mr. Brooke ib. Earl of Breadalbane 126 Thomas Burgh ib. Colonel Baillie 127 Robert Brownrigg 128 Miles de Cogan 4 Earl Camden 5, 26, 32 Countefs Camden 5, 63 Archbifhop Comyn 9 Lord John Cutts ib. Charles I. 1 1 Charles II. 10, 29, 40 Mr. Congreve 14 Chandler, bifhop of Durham ib. Sir William Chambers 15 Lord Carteret 1 7 Lord Clanricarde 18 Don Alonzo del Campo ib. Earl of Clare 18, 25, 6$, 76 Earl of Charlemont 49>5'»55 Mr. Cowper 23 Luke Chaloner 25 Lord Carleton 25, 76 Rev. James B. Clinch 26 Surgeon C I2 9 3 Surgeon Creighton 27 Earl of Chefterfield 30 Mr. Chapman 31 Mr. Cowan 32 Mr. Cooley 41 Mr. Cartels 49 Rt. Hon. William Conyngham 51, ss> 8o James Clcghorne 52 Carolin 60 Earl of Clonmell 55,76,79,123 General Cuninghame 55, 100 Lord Cloncurry 6$, 70 Count Thomas Conway 72 James Count Conway 72 Mr. Cranfield 75 Lord Carysfort 80 Mr. ChrifUe 82 David Chaigneau 85 Rev. Doaor Corbet 98 Oliver Cromwell 1 1 1 Earl Carhampton j 25 Rt. Hon. Tho. Conolly 126 Colonel Clavering 127 General Crofbie ib. Colonel Cradock ib. Mrs. Crofbie ib. Philip de Comines 129 Marianne Cox 134 Mr. J. Campbell iv Mr. Dodwell Mr. Dunkin Doctor Delany Rev. Andrew Dunn Rev. Peter Delort Surgeon Deafe Stephen Dickfon Marquis Downfhire Lord De Vefci Dean Drelincourt Whitmore Davis Hon. Henry Dillon Jeremiah D'Olier Lord De Vefci Vol. II. 27, ib. ib. 25 ib 26 52 52 5S> 126 55 64 66, 86 72 76 80 Dauphin of France Mr. Darwin Mrs. Domville John Dwyer Edward VI. Queen Elizabeth Do&or Egan Rev. John Euftace John Eccles Mr. Evans Doctor Elrington Earl of Ely Mrs. Efte John Exfhaw John En for Lord Ennifkillen General Egerton Mrs. Eperton Edward IV. Mr. Farquhar Earl of Fingail Sir Thomas French Doctor French Rt. Hon. John Fofter 37 Doctor Fitz-Gerald Duke Fitz-James Mifs Fitzmaurice Mrs. Faulkner Earl Fitz-William William Fitz-William Major Fairtlough Viicount Fitz-William Raymond Ie Grofs George I. George II. George III. Henry Grattan Doclor Goldfmith George Grierfon Conftantia Grierfon Duke of Gloucefter Lord Gormanftown 95 104 121 123 9 XI 25 26 28 3 1 5* 55 66 71 73 126 127 ib. 129 14 25 ib. ib. ,48^6 52 72 76 82 117 1 1 8 126 *35 4 10 10, 64 129 >3>58 1 + '7 ib. 18 25 Ralph [ i3° 3 Ralph Gore Mr. Griffith Mr. Gamble James Gandon Rev. George Graydon Rev. Richard Graves Francis Grofe Colonel Gore Earl of Granard Countefs of Granard 28, Captain King x8 3 1 1 Mr. Kirkwood 32 32 J Marquis of Kildare 33 37, 52! Richard Kirwan 48, 52 52 Doctor Kearney 52 62, 69! Anthony King 52 80 1 Lord Kaims 60 12c Walter Blake Kirwan 6$, 66 126 John Kelly 98 i27|Mr. Knox 99 Henry If. Henry de Londres Earl Harcourt Mr. Hewetfon Doctor Huntington Doctor Helfham Dean Hamilton Daniel Hayes Judge Henn John Howard Doctor Huffey Surgeon Hartigan Mr. Hayes Mr. Hoffman Samuel Hayes 47, 99, Mr. Higgins Bifhop Hamilton Rev. William Hamilton Surgeon Hume Rev. Singleton Harpur Sir Francis Hutchinfon Rev. Mr. Hume Sir Robert Hudfon Mr. Hoey 4 ib. 10 H ib. ib. ib. ib. 16 »9 25 27 33 42 116 49 5« 5 2 5 2 69 82 99 ib. 120 Mrs. Peter La Touche 63,66, 91, ICI Rev. Edw. Ledwich 3, 52, 80 Archbifhop Leech 10 Doctor Lawlon Doctor Leland Sarah Lardeau Edward Leeds Surgeon Lawlefs Lewis XIV. Duke of Leinfter Charles Lucas MefTrs. La Touche H ib. *9 ib. 27 33 2 5>33>55 41 42 James I. Charles Johnfton James II. Mr. Jeffop James IV. Rt. Hon. Mr. Jones Mr. Johnfton Enoch Johnfon Archbifhop King n, 118 14 82 29- 3 1 60 82 99 1 1 1 '3 Rt Hon David La Touche 55 Peter La Touche 55, 66, 86, 9 8 > "3 Richard Lawlefs 70 Wm. Digges La Touche 76 Dutchefs of Leinfter ib. John Lees ib. Lord Longford 80 Major Lane 8 1 David La Touche 85, 90 John La Touche ib. David Digges La Touche ib. Mrs. John La Touche 93 Earl of Lanefborough 85 Colonel Leith 126 Sir Thomas Lighton 133 William Molyneaux Mr. Molloy Mr. Graham Myers Richard Edw. Mercier Lord Mountjoy *3 H l 5 16,48 18 Doctor C «3> 3 Doaor Mac Devett Doflor Moylan Robert Marfhall Mary Mercer Sir John Macartney 3 ; William Mylne Doctor Mudan Primate Marfh Sir Richard Mufgrave Rev. William Magee Leonard Mac Naily Theobald M'Kenna Lord M'ountjoy Bartholomew Mofs William Maturin Queen Mary Charles Stanley Monck Humphry Minchin Mr. Mapas Rt Hon. Mr. Mafon Earl of Meath Montaufier Mr. Mickle Lady Araminta Monck Mrs. M'Donald Reverend George Miller Mr. Marlon Malcolm III. Mr. Macartney Mr. Meredith Macbeth Earl of Northumberland Sir Richard Nagle William Newcome Doaor O'Reilly Henry Ofborne Rev. Doaor O'Connor Daniel O'ConneU Lady Oriel O'Tooles and O'Byrnes John Ogilby Mr. O'Reilly Surgeon Obre 25 ib ib. 27 ■ 3 2 36 47 48 5 1 5 2 ib. ib. 55 59 63 64 66 70 79 82 ib 95 96 99 101 102 104 » "5 123 ib. *i5 10 12 5« 25 64 *y 72 93 117 ib 123 125 Charles Pratt S Rt. Hon. Tho. Pelham 5, 139 Humphry Powell 6 Sir William Petty 8 Rev. Mr. Pilkington 14 Earl of Pembroke 16 Doctor Patten 18 Dotfor Plunket 25 Doaor Power 26 Sir Anthony Pery 28 Mr. Prior 47 Lord Powerfcourt 50, 58 Lord Primate 5 1 The Provolt ib. William Prefton 52 Sir Laurence Parfons ib. Ear! of Portarlington 55 Sir John Patnell ib. Hon. and Rev. John Pomeroy Alderman Pierfon 64 William Pitt 7* Mr. Putland 84 Michael Pennick no Mr. Patrickfon 123 Doaor Rutty Duke of Richmond Judge Robinfon Sir Mark Rainsford Duke of Rutland Yv illiam Ridgeway Sir Boyle Roche Salvator Rofa Mr. Roberts William Rowley John Rawfon Robefpiere The Man of Rofs William Rowley, Efq; Count Rumford 8, 115 10 16 28 3 6 > 59 52 76 80 ii, 123 82 86 8S 116 120 140 Sitric, King of the Danes 3 Dean Swift 8, 9, 16, 29 k 2 Doaor [ *3 2 J Doctor Sterne 9, 14, Archbifhop Smyth Strongbow Duke Schqmberg Henry Gore Sankey Doctor Sullivan Mr. Southern Earl of Shelburne Richard Strange Mr. Stephens Sir Alexander Schomberg Edward Smyth Whitley Stokes William Smith Earl of Shannon Robert Shaw Doctor Stephens George Simpfon Erafmus Smith William Smyth William Stamer Captain Smyth Samuel Sproule 73, Seneca John Scott Rev. Jofeph Stock Rev. Dotfor Stock Sir Skeffington Smyth Mifs Scott Mr. Shanley Francis Sandys Earl of Strafford Mr. Swan Hon Colonel Stewart Major Stark Lady Emily Stewart Alexander Stephens General Straton 24 1 Mr. Taylor 9|Turgefius ib. John Tubbs ib Marquis Townfhend Doctor Troy Doctor Teaghan Doftor Tiffot 10 14 ib. -7 25 3 Z 32 44 5 2 ib. 55 ib. 59 ib. 64 65 70 82 123 66 86 ib 99 ib ib 105 109 "7 r»3 126 127 ib. 135 iv. 10 Archbifhop Ufher General Vallancey Mifs Vicars Counfellor Vavafour Colonel Urquhart John Vanheaver William the Conqueror Mr. Waldre Nicholas Wallh William III. Bifliop Wilfon John Wickliffe Doctor Wade 1 8 ; Mr. Whaley Mr. Wilfon Countefs of Weftmorland Rev. John Walker 52 Rev. James Whitelaw William Webb Samuel Whyte Jofeph Cooper Walker Marquis of Waterford Mr. Waldron Samuel Walker William Watfon William Worthington Count Walih de S errant Ralph Ward Luke White Mr. Weftenra John Hawkins Whitehead Earl of Weftmeath Colonel Wright 25> 5 1 ib 118 121 123 "3 5 l 63 74 126 l 3S 4 6 6 10, 28, 64, 82 M 16 18, 138 27 42 46 61,65 5 2 ib. ib. ib. f 55 64 iv. 69 70 72 73 76 84 99 126 127 49 Lord Yelverton 25 Rev. Doctor Young 52 Arthur Young 99 75 (Duke of York 128 ALPHA* E 133 3 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE NAMES CONTAINED IN THE TOUR FROM DUBLIN TO LONDON. Duke of Ancafter H Mr. Bearcroft 99 King Alfred 43 >5* Earl of Burlington 103 Elias -\fhmole 55 Earl of Buchan 90 Saint Auguftine 74 Agnes Berry 94 Duke of Argyle 79 Ann Bullen 95 Mrs. Allanfon 8c Princefs Amelia 99 Hugh Earl of Chefter it Queen Anne 100 Charles I. Samuel Cooper 1 1 7 Sir Nicholas Bayly 7 Caraclacus 16 Marquis of Buckingham 21 Earl Camden 21 Sir Orlando Bridgeman 23 Lady Clifden 47 John Boydell 39' Colonel Codrington 55 Jofiah Boydell ib. Annibal Caracci ib. Francis Bartolozzi 41 Sir Robert Cotton 55 Mifs Boniface 43 Mr. Coypel 54 Reverend William Borlafe 56 Field Marihal Conway 58 Thomas Braithwaite ib. Charles II. 62 .65 Brugell the Painter ib. Q^ Catharine of Portugal 62 John Beckford 1 12 Duchefs of Cleveland 64 Brown the Architect 109 Queen Charlotte ib. Duke of Buckingham no Duke of Cornwall 67 Mr. Blady 58 Clement V. 63 Mr. Bowen 61 Charles V. ib. Belifarius C-i King Canute 7* Vifcount Beaumont ib. Oliver Cromwell 74 King of Bohemia 69 Duke of Cumberland 76 Bockman the Painter 78 Lady Ann Conolly 8 1 Sir Francis Ballet 80 Richard Owen Cambri dge ib. Earl of Buckinghamfhire 81 Lord Frederick Caven dim ib. Lady Diana Beauclerck ib. Earl of Chefterfield 83 Hon. Mrs. Bofcawen 89 Mrs. Clive 84 98 Colky C »34 3 Colley Cibber Pere Courayer Earl of Cornwall Benvenuto Cellini Peter Cavalini Queen Caroline Julius Casfar Captain Cook Compton, Bifhop of London ib Cipriani 1 1 1 92 93 94 96 97 100 ICI 106 Hon. Mrs. Damer 59, 94, 98 Lady Denham 64 David, King of Scotland 65 Marquis of Dublin 67 Dahl the Painter 78 Lord Dudley 87 Dyer the Poet 91 Lydia Duncomb 94 Duke of Devonfliire 99 Edward I. 3, 22 Queen Elizabeth 24, 45, 41; Queen Eleanor 46 Edward the Confeflbr 5c Edward III. 61, 68 Edward the Black Prince 62 Princefs Elizabeth Edward TI. Edward IV. Countefs of Exeter Earl Fitz-William 21 Henry Fitzroy 23 Fair Rofamond 47 Lady Eliza Fofter 59 Francis I. 64 Fore ft the Painter 74 William Fitz-Williams 75 Mary Queen of France 95 Faithoin the Painter 96 Chancellor Finch 100 Prince George of Denmark 61 Lady Gramont 64 Gibbons the Statuary 65 Pope Gregory 74 Mr. Gray 70 George II. 76, 81 George I. 88 Dutchefs of Gloucefter 93 Lord William Gordon 1 10 Marquis of Hertford r> icholas Hookes Lord Howard frs, Holland Henry VIII. 23, 43 Henry IV. Mrs. Harte Henry I. Henry II. Henry III. Hayward the Architect William Hoare Holbein Henry VII. Henry VI. Hudfon the Painter George Hardinge Hogarth John Howard Lord Heathfield 44 46, ir ib. 13 17 i IS 27 37 ,61 '°3 107 5« 6z 64 , 88 ,76 80 8r 94 106 ib. Mr. Jackfon Inigo Jones Mr. Jones Jordaens of Antwerp Mr. Jervis James I. King John John King of France Jarvis the Painter Samuel Johnfon William Goddard Owen Glendower George III. ' 2 »6 41,61, 75 2> 7 J 3 16, 18 49 54 58 68 . 70 74 106 Sir Godfrey Kneller 66, 95 Koiler the firft Printer 69 Kent the Architect 100 Llewellin, I *35 3 Llewellin, Prince of Wales 5,1 o Prince of Orange Maria Lloyd Earl of Leicefrer Lady Lucan Archbifhop Laud Doctor Lifter Mr. Lock Louis XIV Sir Peter Lely Hugh Lupus Reverend Mr Lee Mr. Lewen Duke of Leeds William Locke Ninon de L'Enclos Madoc ap Griffith Colonel Middleton Sir Thomas Middleton Madoc ap Meredith Edwin Earl of Mercia Roger de Montgomery i Munday Hannah M Charlotte More Duke of Marlborough Queen Mary Lady Melbourne Sir Samuel Morland Lord Mendip Sarah Malcolm Sir Horace Mann Madam de Maintenon *3 6+ 74 80, 92, 97 94 80 88 94 96 45 1 6 Lady OfTory 24 Prince Octavius 41 Earl of Orford 5, Peter Oliver 5<5 Pennant 10, 62:Earl of Pembroke 63 Doctor Pugh 67; Henrietta Maria Percy 70 Mifs Ponfonby VIr. Parks King Penda Henry Percy Major Pierfbn Mr. Peckitt of York Doctor Pococke Sir William Peon Queen Phtlippa Colonel Pechel Countcfs Dowager Paulett George Pocock Alexander Pope > lifs Parke i-Vtitot the Painter Queen of Pruffia Doctor Price Chief Juftice Pratt Doctor Percival Sir Pigot Piers, Bart. 20 2. : . 24 26 27 ib 52 ib V 44 79 59 62 80, 82 94 96 ib. Earl of Northington Mr. Northcote James Nichols Countefs Northumberland Duke of Northumberland 107 13 16 17 20 21 26 27 41 54 55 64 65 80 80 8t ib. 88 95 100 104 nz 133 ib. Earl of Rochefter Sir Jofhua Reynolds Rous the Hifrorian 2 1 Mr. Romney 4o:Roubillac the Sculptor 49 Cardinal Richlieu 64 Earl of Radnor 99 Duke of Ormond Lord OfTory King Ofwald K.ng Offa Mr. Jpie General Oglethorpe Duke of Orleans 24, 88 24 26 27 4 c 53 53 76, S8, Dutchefs of Richmond Rubens the Painter Emprefs of Ruffia Richard II. Earl of Richmond George Rofs Ruthal, Bifhop of D 'iyfbrack the Sculptor Lord Rodney 34 4°, 54 44 47 53 ib. 54 64 1 1 1 Sz 1 12 ib. S 9 94 100 106 Sir C '36 1 Sir William Stanley Thomas Lord Seymour Shakefpeare Mr. Smirke Earl Spencer Earl of Shrewfbury Lady Spencer Queen of Sweden Sir Henry Saville Mr. Selden King of Sardinia Dutchefs of Somerfet Lady Sunderland Soliman, Emperor Jane Seymour Earl of Strafford Countefs of Suffolk Sir William Stanhope Lord John Sackville Duke of Suffolk Earl of Sandwich Sebert, King of the Saxons Mr. Lloyd Trevor Surgeon Thompfon Mrs. Trimmer Jofeph Townfhend Marfhal Taliard Sir James Thornhill John Tradefcant Colonel Trigg Mr. Thornton Richard Topham Mr. Tompion 23 24 37 40 42 43 47 53 55 ib. 62 64 ib. 68 75 81 ib 82 93 95 ib 10- 23 24 3 2 4-2 49 53 55 61 ib. 77 78 Lady Bridget Tolemache 8t James Thomfon 89 Alefsandro Veronefe 49 Anthony Verrio 66 Robert de Vere 67 Vicar of Bray 72 Sir George Villiers 95 Charlotte Vicars 37 Mr. Walpole 13 Mr. Watts 17 Edward Wotton 20 Earl of Weftmorland 2 1 Sir Watkins Williams Wyne 23 Colonel Watts 26 Sir Benjamin Weft 40, 54, 65 Mr. Woollet 41 Cardinal Wolfey 53, 78 Sir Chriftopher Wren 56, 78 .Countefs of Weftmorland ib. \ iliiam the Conqueror 61, 67 Elizabeth Widville 75 Waddington, Bifhop of Chefter 77 Major Webber 80 Bifliop Warburton 84 Sir Robert Walpole 93 Lady Waldegrave ib. William Rufus U2 Elizabeth of York 95 Zincke the Painter 95 DIRECTIONS FOR THE BINDER. VIEW OF DUBLIN. View of the Cufiom-houfe to front the Title. Dedication after the Title. Mrs Grierfon's Poem on the Art of printing - - Page 17 View of Sarah Bridge - - - - — 4 6 Medal ftruck for David La Touche - - - — 91 Bellevue in the County of Wicklow ... - — 9S View of the Hot-houfe at Eellevue — 104 of the Camp at Loughlinilown - - — 127 TOUR TO LONDON. Duke of York's Arms to follow Title. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. ID' „,i 1 W® URl JUL l RECEIVED LD-URL JUL 12 195S AM PM 7-4 <*-9 9-10 % - _-j? *»** 1|7 1QC 1 Form L9-20m-7,'61(Cl437s