EMPEROR OK BRAZIL 
 Boro. Dec. 2^1825. 
 
 After Piiotog.1853. 
 
BRAZIL 
 
 THE BRAZILIANS 
 
 PORTRAYED IN 
 
 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE 
 SKETCHES. 
 
 REV. JAMES C. FLETCHER 
 
 AND 
 
 REV. D. P. KIDDER, D. D. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BV ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 EIGHTH EDITION. 
 REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY. 
 
 LONDON : SAMPSON, LOW, SON, & CO. 
 1868. 
 
f^^v 
 
 l3 
 
 ■'I- 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866. by 
 
 J. C. FLETCHER ^^D D. P. KIDDER, 
 
 lu ttic Clerk's Office of the District uourt of the District of Massachusetts 
 
 University Press : Welch, Bigelow, & Co., 
 
 Cambridge. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO THE EIGHTH EDITION 
 
 Within the last fifteen months two new editions (the sixth 
 and seventh) of " Brazil and the Brazilians " have been 
 exhausted. While translations of portions have been made in 
 various languages, and while an author in England has almost 
 wholly " made up " a general book on Brazil from this work, 
 nothing has shown a more flattering appreciation of it than the 
 offer of Professor Laboulaye — the firm friend of America — to 
 write an introduction for a French translation of " Brazil and 
 THE Brazilians," 
 
 Since the publication of the Sixth Edition (to the Preface of 
 which the reader is referred) several very important events have 
 occurred in Brazil, which the authors have thought best to men- 
 tion in this place, although they have noted them in the proper 
 chapters. 
 
 The Opening of the Amazon, which occurred on the 7th of Septem- 
 ber, 1867, and by which the Great River is free to the flags of all nations 
 from the Atlantic to Peru, and the Abrogation of the Monopoly of 
 THE Coast Trade from the Amazon to the Rio Grande do Sul (see page 
 589), whereby four thousand miles of Brazilian sea-coast are open to the 
 vessels of every country, cannot fail not only to develop the resources of Brazil, 
 but these measures will prove a great benefit to the bordering Hispano- 
 American Republics and to the maritime nations of the earth. The open- 
 ing of the Amazon is the most significant indication that the leaven of old 
 narrow, monopolistic Portuguese conservatism has at last worked out. Por- 
 tugal would not allow Humboldt to enter the Amazon valley in Brazil. The 
 result of the new policy is beyond the most sanguine expectation. The exports 
 and imports of Para for October and November, 186 7, were double those of 
 1866. This is but the beginning. Soon it will be found that it is cheaper for 
 all Bolivia, Peru, Equador, and New Grenada east of the Andes to receive 
 
iv ^ Preface to the Eighth Edition. 
 
 their goods from, and to export their India-rubber, cinchona, &c., &c., to 
 the United States and Europe via the great water highway which dis- 
 charges into the Atlantic, than by the long, circuitous route of Cape Horn, 
 or the Trans-Isthmian route of Panama. The Purus and the Madeira are here- 
 after to be navigated by steamers. The valley of the Amazon in Brazil 
 is as large as the area of the United States east of Colorado, while the 
 whole valley of the Amazon, in and out of Brazil, is equal to all the 
 United States east of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory; and 
 yet the population is not equal to the single city of Rio de Janeiro, or the 
 combined inhabitants of Boston and Chicago. It is estimated that a larger 
 population can be sustained in the valley of the Amazon than elsewhere on 
 the globe ; but it will never be peopled until there is as complete freedom 
 for emigrants, and as entire absence of red-tapeism in Brazil as exist in the 
 United States. 
 
 The System of Emigration is improving. In 1866 there were mis- 
 takes on the part of the agents for Brazil at New York. They were not 
 careful enough. They accepted any one and every one that applied for 
 passage under the liberal offers (which still hold good) of the Brazilian gov- 
 ernment, and there were mistakes on the part of many well-meaning, almost 
 penniless adventurers from our cities and from our own South, who sup- 
 posed that there was a royal road to pi-osperity in the tropics without labor, 
 and that slavery was a permanent institution in Brazil. But, notwithstand- 
 ing the croakers who have returned, many Southerners have succeeded and 
 are succeeding in Brazil. 
 
 Slavery has decreased with great rapidity during 1866-67, and the best 
 estimates make the present number of slaves 1,400,000, — a reduction by 
 the mild process of law and custom of 1,600,000 since 1853. The Emperor 
 took the initiative at the last session of Parliament, and invoked legislation 
 upon this most important subject. Dr. A. M. Perdigao Malheiro, an eminent 
 advocate at Rio, has published a most important and convincing pamphlet on 
 this question, entitled A escravidao no Brazil (Slavery in Brazil). 
 
 Direct taxation for the first time in Brazil has been brought about by 
 the exigencies of the Paraguayan war, — a conflict which has done more to 
 give Brazil a national feeling than any event since 1822. 
 
 The Paraguayan War. — The history and the aims of this contest, now 
 waging, have been more persistently misrepresented than those of any other war 
 of modern times, with the single exception of the misrepresentation in England 
 of the late internal struggle in the United States. From November, 1864 (the 
 beginning of the war), to November, 1865, the various battles and victories 
 were impartially described in the English journals, from which source other 
 countries, not South American, have derived their information. Bat in the 
 autumn of 18G5 the Brazilian government applied in London for a loan of 
 £4,000,000. Such was the competition for this loan, and such the confidence 
 of English financiers in Brazil, that £ 30,000,000 were subscribed. The loan, 
 of course, immediately went above par. From that time to this " opera- 
 tors" at Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, one thousand miles from the seat 
 of war, had a motive in sending rumors and partial statements detrimental 
 to the allies by the English steamer to Lisbon, whence their correspond- 
 
Preface to the Eighth Edition. v 
 
 encc would be telcj^raplied to London ; and the result would be the depres- 
 sion of the Brazilian loan for a few days, then when the " rise " took 
 place the " operators " and their friends could profit by their former trans- 
 action. In regard to the contest, Brazil had no other alternative tiian war 
 with Lopez, who is as truly a despotic dictator as Francia was. The origin 
 of the war is impartially set forth on page 353. The present position of the 
 allies is very much that of the armies of the United States at the end of 
 lSfi4, when Sherman made his famous "march to the sea" and Grant was 
 before Richmond. Brazil in 18G7 sent an army to the north of Paraguay 
 and retook all the fortified ports seized by Paraguay in 1864; and the allied 
 land and naval forces at the beginning of 1868, after varied experience, 
 were closing upon Humaita, the last stronghold of the Paraguayans, — a 
 fortress far more inapproachable than Sebastopol. 1868 will doubtless see 
 a complete resolution of a struggle whose end is the liberation of Brazilian 
 citizens and the reopening (which Paraguay had guaranteed by solemn 
 treaty obligations) of the great natural highway to the sea for the four 
 nations of Eastern South America. 
 
 Br.\ziliax Coffee. — Brazil has also had her peaceful triumphs. In the 
 great Exposition held at Paris in 186 7 Brazil attracted much attention by 
 the display of her material resources. She succeeded in obtaining a num- 
 ber of prizes. To the uninitiated it may seem strange that from all the 
 countries — Arabia, Java, Ceylon, Venezuela, the AVest Indies, and Central 
 America — contesting for the production of the best coffee, Brazil bore away 
 the palm. But it has long been known to dealers that coffee does not de- 
 pend upon where it grows, but upon the length of time it remains upon 
 the tree and upon the manner of Its curing. The Southern and the South- 
 western States became acquainted with coffee Imported from Rio de Ja- 
 neiro fifty years ago, at a time when Brazilians did not know how to cure 
 coffee ; but the taste of the South and West has alone kept up the demand 
 for the green, poorly cured coffee known in commerce as " Rio." The Bra- 
 zilians themselves never use " Rio," and although three fourths of all the 
 coffee imported Into the United States come from Brazil, yet much of it 
 Is sold as Mocha and Java, or under any other name than " Rio." The 
 English, Americans, and Germans make the poorest drink from coffee in 
 the world, while the Latin nations, who never hoil their coffee, make the 
 best beverage. For the history and culture of coffee see pages 449, 451. 
 
 CoTTOX can be grown In any portion of the Empire of Brazil. In qual- 
 ity it ranks far above our " uplands," and In the Liverpool market the best 
 Brazilian cottons stand next — though at a distance — to the " Sea-Island." 
 Pcrnambuco Is the chief port for exportation. There are no great cotton 
 plantations, but the most of its culture Is carried on by small farmers and 
 by free negroes and half-breeds. An article in the New York Ecening 
 Po.s-/, entitled "Small Farms for Cotton Culture "in our own country, called 
 forth a communication from Mr. Hitch, of the house of Henry, Forster, & Co. 
 of Pernambuco, In which he describes the Brazilian plan of little farms cul- 
 tivated by from one to six persons. This has an Important bearing on cot- 
 ton culture in the United States. Mr. Hitch shows how the demand caused 
 by the " cotton famine " brought forth the supply to such an extent that 
 
vi Preface to the Eighth Edition. 
 
 Pernambuco in five years increased her cotton exportation tenfold. See 
 page 525. 
 
 GoARAxA. — At the French Exposition of 1867 a brown chocolate-colored 
 Bubstance figured under the head of the medicines from Brazil. This brown 
 material might at first sight have been taken for chocolate cast In the form 
 of serpents, diminutive turtles, tapirs, &c. It was, however, a remedy which 
 has been used for centuries in Brazil and Bolivia, and which has lately be- 
 come one of the most fashionable antifebrile remedies in Paris. Guarana is 
 the indigenous name of this new contribution to civilized Pharmacy. The 
 junior author has often partaken of it on the Amazon; and as many have 
 recently inquired concerning the Guarand, a short notice of it may be inter- 
 esting. Dr. Cotting of Roxbury, Mass., gives a brief account of it in the 
 Boston Medical and Surgical Journal for February 7, 1867, pages 20, 21. On 
 the west bank of the river Tapajos (excepting the ' Madeira, the longest 
 southern affluent of the Amazon) lives a tribe of Indians called the Mauhes 
 or Maues, who prepare from the seeds of a small climbing plant (the Paul- 
 linia sorhilis') the Guarana. The plant bears berries somewhat larger than 
 coffee-berries, and two in a capsule, not unlike the coffee. These are 
 roasted, ground, mixed with a little water, made into various shapes, and 
 dried to hardness in an oven. Grated and dissolved in water or lemonade, 
 it is highly esteemed as a refreshing and stimulating drink. It Is much 
 used by the Inhabitants of Matto Grosso and other interior provinces, and 
 sometimes. It is said, to such an excess as to produce great tremulousness. It 
 is also much used as a remedy In diarrhoea and intermittent fever. Dr. James 
 C. White of Boston, who has analyzed the Guarana, has given the public his 
 analysis In a very Interesting paper. 
 
 The authors cannot close this Preface without recording an event which 
 may seem personal to them, but which Is also one of sadness to all those who 
 love Brazil In the things that are far beyond her material development. 
 Amongst the devoted men who have gone from the United States to " the 
 land of the Southern Cross," none have been more zealous, wise, and suc- 
 cessful In "winning souls" than Rev. A. G. SImonton of Rio de Janeiro. 
 He founded the Presbyterian mission at Rio de Janeiro In 1859. He estab- 
 lished the Imprensa Evangelica, a religious journal of the most excellent 
 character, and thus, in addition to his constant labors In the pulpit, he did 
 much to furnish Brazil with an Evangelical literature. A few days before 
 his death, when in apparent health, he wrote to the junior author a most 
 cheering letter, stating that during 1867 the fruits of the missions (the Ameri- 
 can Presbyterian) with which he was connected were no less than 112 con- 
 versions, 82 of whom made their profession " before men," and the remainder 
 were soon to follow their example. He died in San Paulo on the 9th of 
 December, 1867. The individual dies, but the Church lives, and his labors 
 will still bring forth fruit to be gathered by the earnest harvesters, his coad- 
 jutors, now laboring In the same field. 
 
 Newburyport, Mass., March, 1868. 
 
PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION. 
 
 The favorable reception which five editions of this work have 
 had in the United States, England, and Brazil, indicates a growing 
 interest in the largest and most stable country of South America. 
 It may be that the illustrations accompanying the Preface to the 
 first edition are not so appropriate to-day as they were ten years 
 ago, but there is still too much ignorance of Brazil in Europe and 
 North America. The present edition will give some idea of the 
 material and moral progress of Brazil during the last decade. 
 
 While several new volumes on some particular portion of the 
 country have been written since 1857, no other work in our lan- 
 guage has given a general view of Brazil and the Brazilians. As 
 much of the political and social life of the Empire centres at Rio de 
 Janeiro, the history and descriptions of the state of affairs at the 
 capital are, to a great extent, those of the whole country. It is for 
 this reason that the reader is detained longer in the city where the 
 Monarch resides and the Parliament holds its sessions. 
 
 Since 1857, one of the authors (J. C. F.) has visited Brazil in 
 four different years, passing much time at Rio de Janeiro; sojourn- 
 ing on plantations, and observing the phases of Brazilian slavery ; 
 making extensive journeys along the sea-coast, and penetrating the 
 interior. In 1862 he ascended the Amazon to the verge of Peru, 
 — more than two thousand miles up the most marvellous river in 
 the world. 
 
viii Preface to the Sixth Edition. 
 
 It was the intention of the authors to pubhsh a new edition in 
 1864 ; but unexpected duties, both in that and the following 
 years, called the junior colleague to Brazil, and prevented the de- 
 sired end. The advantages of later information will, it is hoped, 
 more than compensate for the delay. 
 
 The experience of the authors in Brazil extends over a long 
 period, and they have endeavored conscientiously and impartially 
 to give their views of the country and its people. They have had 
 no motives to do otherwise. While they have not spared what 
 they deemed faults, whether in religion, slavery, or other matters 
 (see concluding chapter), they have not withheld praise when due, 
 and it has not been from intention if they have failed to bring out 
 the good points of the Brazilians. To foreign merchants in Brazil, 
 unsuccessful in business, or to travellers hastening through the 
 country, ignorant of the Portuguese and French languages, and 
 never associating with the inhabitants, the descriptions of those 
 who have resided long in the Empire, or have travelled extensively 
 through it, seem overwrought. One must always bear in mind 
 the origin of the Brazilians, their newness among the nations of the 
 earth, and the fact that the only true mode of comparing Brazil is 
 not to measure her progress with the United States, England, 
 or France, but with the countries of America whose inhabitants 
 are of the Latin race. 
 
 To have detailed with only an ordinary degree of minuteness 
 the changes and progress of Brazil for the last ten years, would 
 require a large volume. As it is, there have been, by emendations 
 and additions, and by notes and appendices, nearly one hundred 
 pages of new matter printed in this edition, while the ordinary text 
 has in many cases been changed and increased. Everything, so 
 far as possible, is brought up to date (1866), by notes at the end 
 of the appropriate chapter. In some cases letters and Itinerary are 
 retained, irrespective of date, because they illustrate manners and 
 
Preface to the Sixth Edition. ix 
 
 customs tliat remain in statu quo. When greater space was need- 
 ed, the subject is more iuUy set forth in the Aj)pendix. Thus, in 
 regard to the jjresent Paraguayan War (ahout whose merits 
 there has been as much ignorance * in both the United States and 
 EngUxnd as there was in Europe concerning the late Rebelhon in 
 North Amei'ica), the reader will find a brief history of its origin 
 and progress on page 352. 
 
 Brazilian Slavery is treated in Chap. VIII., and the most 
 recent information concerning it is given on page 139. 
 
 Emigration to Brazil has of late attracted much attention, 
 especially in the South of the United States, since 1865. Infor- 
 mation under this head can be found on page 333, and in the con- 
 cluding chapter, in the Speech of Paula Souza, page 592. 
 
 Intimately connected with this subject is that of the Religious 
 Disabilities of Protestants ; and no portion of this work is so 
 indicative of great moral progress as the Speech of Sr. Furquim 
 d'Almeida (page 595), and the article in Appendix I. 
 
 For important Meteorological Tables, see Appendix K. 
 
 The Mineral Riches of Brazil are known to be considerable. 
 Diamond and gold mines have been the chief sources of mineral 
 wealth, but hitherto there has been a deficiency of useful minerals. 
 The desideratum has at length been supplied. Coal discoveries 
 have been made in various sea-coast provinces, but the most im- 
 portant in this respect was made by Mr. Nathaniel Plant (from 
 the British Museum) in Rio Grande do Sul. For a full account 
 of this rich coal mine see Appendix H. In the same Appendix it 
 will be seen that the new gold mines of Sr. Tasso, in Northern 
 
 * In four different issues of the journals of New York and Boston, in August, 
 1866, it was stated that the Allies were at " the last extremity," and that the Para- 
 guayans were just about to annihilate them. Up to this time (October, 1866), the 
 Paraguayans, in the four great battles, counting from that of Riachuelo, 1865, have 
 not won a single victory. The par of gold at Rio is 26c?. to the rail reis ; the average 
 in 1865 - 66 was 23|t/., which does not look like an " extremity." 
 
X Preface to the Sixth Edition. 
 
 Brazil, demonstrate that the precious metal is by no means con- 
 fined to the region of S. Joao del Rei. 
 
 The leading Brazilian Journals at the capital are noticed on 
 pages 252, 253. Brazilian Literature and literary Brazilians 
 (pages 586, 589) will interest many Anglo-Saxon readers. 
 
 While frequent mention is made of the ability and accomplish- 
 ments of the Emperor Dom Pedro II., Chapter XIII. is espe- 
 cially devoted to that monarch. 
 
 On pages 183-185, some account is given of Statesmen and 
 Political Parties. 
 
 In 1865, Professor Agassiz, the well-known savant, accom- 
 panied by an American scientific corps, visited Brazil at the invi- 
 tation of the Emperor. The Professor made extensive and most 
 interesting explorations, an account of which is soon to be given to 
 the world. His investigations in the Amazon region have excited 
 a great interest amongst men of science. Major Coutinho, a Bra- 
 zilian officer of engineers, at the command of the Emperor, ac- 
 companied Professor Agassiz in his explorations of the Amazon, 
 and afterward pubHshed at Rio, both in Portuguese and English, 
 some account of the wonderful fauna discovered by Professor 
 Agassiz in Northern Brazil. The English version of a portion of 
 these letters will be found in Appendix J. 
 
 For Population, Commercial Tables, Weights and Meas- 
 ures, and other statistics, see Appendices E, F, and G. 
 
 Within a few years several works on the Brazilian Empire have 
 appeared in England, France, Germany, and Brazil. Amongst these 
 may be mentioned Bates's " Naturalist on the Amazons," a charm- 
 ing book, and the best yet published on that wonderful region. The 
 Deux Annees au Bresil of Biard is, aside from its fine illustrations, 
 the most worthless book ever published on any country. The author 
 seems not to have had one serious reflection. Halfeld's " Survey 
 of the River San Francisco " is a magnificent elephant folio, pub- 
 
Pkeface to the Sixth Edition. xi 
 
 lislied at Rio de Janeiro, of which Sir Roderick Murchison said 
 (before the Royal Geograpliical Society), " Any country might be 
 proud of sucii a work." It cannot be purchased, but a number of 
 copies have been sent by the Brazihan government to the libraries 
 of the United States and Europe. The articles of M. Elis^ 
 Reclus, published in the Mevue des Deux 3Iondes, in 1862, show 
 their author to be an earnest friend of liberty, and, also, that they 
 were written after a very brief visit to Brazil. The conclusions 
 are somewhat hasty, especially when based on M. Biard's book, 
 and Dr. Av6 Lallemant's interesting but partial Reise durch sud 
 Brasilien, Leipsic, 1859. Quite a number of German works have 
 appeared concerning the " colonization " of Germans in Brazil 
 (which was in many cases a shameless piece of jobbery), and the 
 writers are not disposed to look upon anything in Brazil with the 
 least degree of allowance. Mr. Thomas Woodbine IlinchlifF's 
 " South American Sketches " (Longmans, London, 1803) is a 
 very pleasing and accurate book. Sr. Pereira da Silva is now 
 writing a complete history of Brazil, in the Portuguese language. 
 Sr. Aguiar (of San Paulo), in a pamphlet entitled Brazil e os 
 Brazileiros^ has given some very caustic sketches of his country- 
 men. Sr. Soares, of Rio Grande do Sul, has furnished us with an 
 important statistical work on the resources of Brazil. Sr. M. M. 
 Lisboa has, in his Romances Sistoricos, opened a literary mine, in 
 which it would be well if more Brazilian writers would delve. Sr. 
 A. C. Tavares Bastos, in his Cartas do SoUtario (Letters of the 
 Hermit), has given the Brazilian public a most important volume 
 on the various political, economical, and moral questions that so 
 deeply concern the well-being of the Empire. A very excel- 
 lent book on the resources of Brazil was published, in 1863, by 
 the Baron of Penedo (Brazilian Minister to England), apropos 
 to the contribution of Brazil to the Great Exposition of London, 
 in 1802. 
 
xii Preface to the Sixth Edition. 
 
 The thanks of the authors are due, for corrections and contribu- 
 tions in preparing this edition, to Mr. Robert WiUiam Garrett of 
 Rio de Janeiro ; to Mr. Brambier of Para ; to His Excellency Sr. 
 d'Azambuja, Brazilian Minister to the United States ; to the 
 Chevalier d'Aguiar, Brazilian Consul-General at New York ; and 
 to Professors Gumere and Cope, of Haverford College, near Phila- 
 delphia. To the late John S. Gillmer of Bahia the authors were 
 under many obligations. 
 
 October, 186fi. 
 
niEEACE. 
 
 The popular notion of Brazil is, 
 to a certain extent, delineated in 
 the accompanying side-illustrations. 
 Mighty rivers and virgin forests, 
 palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas 
 and alligators, howling monkeys 
 and screaming parrots, diamond-mining, 
 revolutions, and earthquakes, are the com- 
 ponent parts of the picture formed in the 
 mind's eye. It is probably hazarding no- 
 il thing to say that a very large majority of 
 general readers are better acquaint- 
 ed with China and India than with 
 Brazil. How few seem to 
 be aware that in the distant 
 Southern Hemisphere is a 
 stable constitutional mon- 
 archy, and a growing na- 
 tion, occupying a territory 
 of greater area than that 
 of the United States, and 
 
 that the descendants of the 
 s 
 
Preface. 
 
 Portuguese hold the same relative position iu South America 
 as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the 
 ^ew AVorld! How few Protestants are cognizant of the 
 fact that in .the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was 
 first proclaimed on the Western Continent! 
 
 The following work, by two whose experience in the Bra- 
 zilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeavors 
 faithfully to portray the history of the country, and, by a nar- 
 rative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the 
 land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, 
 customs, and advancement of the most progressive people 
 south of the Equator. 
 
 "While "Itineraries" relating to journej-s of a few months in 
 various portions of the Empire have been recently published, 
 no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or 
 America since the "Sketches" of the senior author, (D.P. K.,) 
 which was most favorably received in England and the United 
 States, but has long been out of print. 
 
 Although the present volume is the result of a joint efibrt, 
 the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author 
 to place his contributions in the hands of his 
 junior colleague, (J. C.E.,) with the permission 
 to use the name of the former in the third 
 ■person singular. The amount of mfJter from 
 each pen is, however, more 
 nearly equal than at first sight 
 would appear. 
 
 The authors have consult- 
 ed every important work in 
 French, German, English, and 
 Portuguese, that could throw 
 light on the history of Brazil, 
 
Preface. 6 
 
 and likewise various published memoirs and discourses 
 read before the flourishing "Geographical and Historical 
 Society" at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either 
 personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or 
 have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers. 
 
 For important services, the authors are happy to acknow- 
 ledsce their indebtedness to Couselheiro J. F. de Cavalcanti de 
 Albuquerque, His Brazilian Majesty's Minister-Plenipotentiary 
 at Washington, and M. le Chevalier d'Aguiar, Brazilian Con- 
 sul-General at New York; to lion. Ex-Governor Kent, of 
 Maine, and Ferdinand Coxe, Esq., of Philadelphia, both of 
 whom held high diplomatic positions at Rio de Janeiro; to 
 Hon. Judge J. U. Petit, formerly Consul in one of the most im- 
 portant N'orthern provinces of Brazil ; to Mrs. L. A. Cuddehy, 
 late of Rio de Janeiro; and to Rev. H. A. Boardman, D.D., of 
 Philadelphia. They also express their obligations to Mr. D. 
 Bates, Dr. Thos. Rainey, and to A. R. Egbert, M..D., for 
 valuable contributions to the Appendix. 
 
 The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or 
 daguerreotype views taken on the spot. All have been faithfully as well as skil- 
 fully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying 
 map, prepared by Messrs. J. H. Colton & Co., is one of the most perfect ever pub- 
 lished of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author 
 travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map 
 as he journeyed; and his sincere thanks are heartily given to Senhor John Lisboa, 
 of Bahia, who has devoted himself to the geography of his native land. 
 
 In 1866, J. H. Colton & Co. have published a gigantic map of Brazil, which 
 was a work of years by Mr. Rensberg, one of the leading lithographers of Rio 
 de Janeiro. Messrs. Fleuss, Brothers, publishers of the Semana Ilhistrada, have 
 jilso issued several important maps from their establishment — the Imperial Imti- 
 tuto Artistico at Rio. 
 
NOTES FOR THOSE GOING TO BRAZIL. 
 
 The Portuguese langufiRe is universally spoken in Brazil. It is not a dialect of the Spanish, but is 
 a distinct tongue : as Vieyra says, it is the eldest daughter of tlie Latin. Portuguese and French are 
 the Court languages. One-sixth of the population of large citie.s and towns speak French. Those 
 acquainted with tlie French, Italian, or Spanish easily acquire the Portuguese. Engli.sh is taught 
 in all the higher schools; and it is gratifying to the American that at the capital, and in some other 
 important places, the "Class Readers " of George S. Hillard, Esq., (author of "Six Months in Italy,") 
 are the text-hooks. While Messrs. Triibner &. Co., in London, and the Messrs. Appleton, in New York, 
 have published manuals for learning the Portuguese, it may be of advantage to state that if an Eng- 
 lishman or Anglo-American can give to the vowels the Continental sound, learn the contractions, 
 accents, ic, and the peculiarities of two or three consonants, he will find the Portuguese the easiest 
 of all foreign tongues. The termination iio is pronounced almost like oun in the English word noun. 
 Words ending in Oes are pronounced as if an n were inserted between the e and the s. Thus, Caraoes, 
 English Camoens. Terminations «n and im are very nearly pronounced like eng and ing in English : 
 t.g. Jerusalem is pronounced Jerusalen^r. JC has the force of Sli : thus, one of the great affluents of the 
 Amazon, Xingfi, is pronounced Shingu. 
 
 The word Dom, ((/onu'nMS,) which always precedes the name of the Emperor, is not used indiscrimi- 
 nately like the Don of the Spanish, but is a title applied by the Portuguese and their descendants 
 only to monarchs, princes, and bishops. 
 
 One milrcis. (a thousand reis,) about fifty-six cents, or two shillings and sixpence English. The 
 Brazilian unit-coin is always represented by the dollar sign after the mil : thus, 54500 are five mil and 
 five hundred reis, — about three dollars. A conto of reis is little more than £112. 
 
 Clothes, of course, should be of a character adapted to the tropics; but always take some woollen 
 garments, for in the interior, and south of Bahia, the thermometer often indicates 60° Fahrenheit. It 
 hardly need be added that a dress-coat is indispensable for those going to the palace. All personal 
 effects, like wearing-apparel, are admitted dutyfree; but the traveller would do well to remember 
 that he should not be overstocked with cigars. There are many drawbacks at the oustom-house in 
 favor of goods belonging to emigrants, as agricultural implements, macliinery, &c. &c. (vide page 333 
 and the concluding chapter of this work.) 
 
 As to the Patent Laws, mode of obtaining certain privileges for inventions, Ac, William V. Lid- 
 gerwood, Esq., (United States Charge d'Afl'aires in 1865-66,) can give more information than any other 
 person in Brazil. He resides at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Messrs. Triibner & Co. (CO Paternoster Row, London) have facilities for furnishing Brazilian and 
 Portuguese books to ajiy parts of Europe or North America. We are glad that this house is to pub- 
 lish a new and complete Portuguese and English Dictionary, — a very great desideratum, as all such 
 lexicons now extant are exceedingly antiquated. 
 
 English and American publications of standard works and light literature are to be obtained of 
 n. M. Lane & Co., 15 Rua Direita, Rio de Janeiro; and of Guelph de Lailhacar k Co., Rua do Crespo, 
 Pernambuco, and in the city of San Paulo. 
 
 Carrington &. Co."3 United States & Brazili.an Express is a very great convenience which has fol- 
 lowed the establishment of the United States and Brazil Mail Steamship Company. Messi-s. Carring- 
 ton t Co. t.30 Broadway, New York) charge tliemselves to deliver parcels and money, or to fill orders 
 in Para. Pernambuco. Bahia. and Rio de J.aneiro, and vice versd,. Fales and Dunciin, Commission Mer- 
 chants, 57 Rua Direita, are the agents at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Hotels in Brazil are not equal to those in Europe or the States. At Rio all h.ave high prices, 
 ranging, according to room, from ten shillings English to £1. The Exchange Hotel and Hotel doa 
 Estrangeiros are the best English hotels in the capital. Hotel d'Europa is the best Frencli hotel. 
 Bennett's, an hour from llio, is the most comfortable place in Brazil. Bahia, Hotel Furtin is a good 
 restaurant, and convenient to those arriving from sea. At Pernambuco, the Hotel Universel has the 
 same recommendations. The hotels of Bahia and Pernambuco are small, compared with those of Rio. 
 The prices of 1855 (pages 295 and 296) are from one-third to one-half higher in 1866, — except at 
 Petropolis, at which place are several good hotels. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAQ8 
 
 The Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Historic Reminiscences — First Sight of the Tropics — 
 Entrance to the Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur — 
 Gardner and Stewart — The Capital of Brazil — Distinction of Rio de Janeiro 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Landing — Hotel Pharoux — Novel Sights and Sounds — The Palace Square — Rua 
 Direita — Exchange — The " Team" — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House — 
 Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent's Opinion of Brazil — Post-OfiBce — Dis- 
 like of Change — Senhor Jus6 Maxwell — Rua do Ouvidor — Shops and Feather- 
 Flowers — The Brazilian Omnibus can be full — Narrow Streets and Police-Regu- 
 lations — A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York — Passeio Publico — Bra- 
 zilian Politeness — The " Gondola" — The Brazilian imperturbable — Lack of Hotels 
 — First Night in Rio de Janeiro 24 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Discovery of South America — Pinzon's Visit to Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus 
 Vespueius — The Name " Brazil" — Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Martin Affonso de Souza 
 — Past Glory of Portugal — Coligny's Huguenot Colony — The Protestant Banner 
 first unfurled in the New World — Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between -- 
 the Portuguese and the French — Defeat of the Latter — San Sebastian founded — 
 Cruel Li tolerance — Reflections 4ft 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Early State of Rio — Attacks of the French — Improvements under the Viceroys- 
 Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal — Rapid Political Changes — Departure of 
 Dom John VI. — The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro — Brazilians dis- 
 satisfied with the Mother-Country — Declaration of Independence — Acclamation of 
 Dom Pedro as Emperor 61 
 
 CHAPTER y. 
 
 The Andradas — Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly — Dom 
 Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force — Constitution framed by a Special Com- 
 mission — Considerations of this Document — The Rule of Dom Pedro I. — Causes of 
 
 Dissatisfaction — The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro II 73 
 
 7 
 
COXTENTS. 
 CnAPTER VI. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Praia dc FUitinngo — The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views — The Man who 
 cut down " Film-Tree — Moonlight — Rio " Tigers" — The Bathers — Gloria Hill^ 
 Evening S'-ene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Heathenism — A Ser- 
 mon in Honor of Our Lady — Festa da Gloria — The Larangeiras — Ascent of the 
 Cercovado — 'i?Le Sugar-Loaf 86 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Brotherhoods- Foip'tal of San Francisco de Paula — The Lazarus and the Rattle- 
 snake — Misoric T»Ma — Sailors' Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Re- 
 colhiiucnto for Crphan-Girls — New Misericordia — Asylum for the Insane — Jose 
 d'Anchieta, Fi unolsr of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of the Order — Friar 
 John d'Alu.e>dii — Churches — Convents 107 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Illumination of ♦.hi Ci y- —Early to Bed — Police — Gambling and Lotteries — Muni- 
 cipal Government —Vaccination — Beggars on Horseback— Erisons^Slavery — Bra- 
 '^zilian Laws in ffv<r ■^f Fieedom — The Mina Hereules-T^Snglish SLive-Holders — 
 --jSJavery in Brazil Pov^Oi'td 124 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Religion — The Corrupl.'a > i-f (he Clorgy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the 
 Brazilians — The Padr')- -F'isi^vi's — Consumption of Wax — Tbe Intrude — Pro- 
 cessions — Anjinhos — Sauta P-isv-ill.'anp, — The Cholera not cured by Processions 140 
 
 v^K<iPTER X. 
 
 The Home-Feeling — Brazilian Housts- Tl.<i Cirl— The Wife — The Mother — Moorish 
 Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-C>rt on Lv>gs — Brs^zilian Lady's Delight — Her 
 Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill thj ^ixo — Boston Apples and Ice 
 — Family Recreations — The Boy — The CoUogi.^— Oopiti'or.-Schools — Highest Aca- 
 demies of Learning — The Gentleman — Duties ol th'* C'ti.-en — Elections — Political 
 Parties — Brazilian Statesmen — Nobility — Ord°,r,- of k'li^hthood 1^ 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Praia Grande — San Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Manv'i6\a- -rinC3 v''9 Area- -View 
 from Ingd — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The F'ne.-'t '^<tevn.''h'T) ■Vovago 
 in the World — American Seamen's Friend Society — The Fudish Tec et->rj- — Eng- 
 lish Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennett's — Cascades — Excursions — 
 Botanical Gardens — An Old Friend— Home •, 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Campo Santa Anna — The Opening of the Assemblea Geral— Historj- o' PvciN 
 succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II. — The Regency — Con?«;it'vtt»i«s-' 
 Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1S40 — Debates i' 
 the House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos- 
 Deputation to the Emperor — Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedrc'* 
 
 i 
 
Contents. 9 
 
 PAQI 
 
 Majority — Tbe Assembly's t'roclaiuation — Rejoicings — New Ministry — Public 
 Congratulations — Heal State of Things — Ministerial Programme — Preparations for 
 the Coronation — Change of Ministry — Opposition come into Power — Coronation 
 postponed — Splendor of the Coronation — Financial Embarrassments — Diplomacy 
 — Dissolution of the Camara — Pretext of Outbreaks — Council of State — Restora- 
 tion of Order — Sessions of the Assembly — Imperial Marriages — Ministerial Change 
 — Present Condition 211 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Emperor of Brazil — His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements — Now York 
 Historical Society — The First Sight of D. Pedro II. — An Emperor on Board an 
 American Steamship — Captain Foster and the " City of Pittsburg" — How D. Pedro 
 II. was received by the " Sovereigns'' — An Exhibition of American Arts and Manu- 
 factures — DifiBcuUies overcome — Visit of the Emperor — His Knowledge of American 
 Authors — Success among the People — Visit to the Palace of S. Christovao — Long- 
 fellow, Hawthorne, and Webster 231 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Brazilian Literature — The Journals of Rio de Janeiro — Advertisements — The Freedom 
 of the Press — Effort to put down Bible-Distribution — Its Failure — National Library 
 — Museum — Imperial Academies of Fine Arts — Societies — Brazilian Historical and 
 Geographical Institute — Administration of Brazilian Law — Curious Trial 251 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 The Climate of Brazil — Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries — Cool Resorts — 
 Trip to St. Alexio — Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius — The Mulatto Improvisor — Sydney 
 Smith's "Immortal" Surpassed — ^ Lady's I iUBressions of Travel — An American 
 Factory — A Yankee House — The Ride up the Organ Mountains — Forests, Flowers, 
 and Scenery — Speculation in Town-Lots — Boa Vista — Height of the Serra dos 
 OrgOes — Constaucia — The "Happy Valley" — The Two Swiss Bachelors — Youth 
 renewed — Prosaic Conclusion — Todd's " Student's Manual" — The Tapir — The 
 Toucan — The Fire-Flies — Expenses of Travelling — Nova Fribourgo — Cauta Gallo 
 — Petropolis 26S 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Preparations for tbe Voyage to the Southern Provinces — The Passengers — Ubatub.a 
 — Eagerness to obtain Bibles — The Routine on Board — Aboriginal Names — San 
 Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians at Dinner — Incorrect 
 Judgment of Foreigners — S. Vincente — Order of Exercises — My Cigar — Paranagui 
 — H.B.M. "Cormorant" and the Slavers — Mutability of Maps — Russian Vessels in 
 Limbo — The Prima Donna — An English Engineer — Arrive at San Francisco do Sul 303 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 The Province of Parand — Message of its First President — Mate, or Paraguay Tea — 
 Its Culture and Preparation — Grows in North Carolina — San Francisco do Sul— 
 Expectations not fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My Coiupanions not wholly carnivo- 
 rous—A Travelled Trunk— The Tolling-Bell Bird— Arrival at Joinville— A New! 
 Settlement — Circular on Emigration to Brazil 320 
 
V. 
 
 10 Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 PAQJ 
 
 Colonia Donna Francisca — The School-Teacher — The Clergyman — A Turk — Bible- 
 Distribution — Suspected — A B C — The Fallen Forest — The House of the Director 
 — A Runaway — The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants — Orchidaceous Plants — 
 Charlatanism — San Francisco Jail — The Burial of the Innocent, and the money- 
 making Padre — The Province of Sta. Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful Scenery — 
 Shells and Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province of Rio Grande do Sul — Herds and 
 Herdsmen — The Lasso — Indians — Former Provincial Revolts — Present Tranquil- 
 lity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas and of the Paraguayan Lopez Jr 334 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Jonrney to San Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra do Cubatao — The Heaven &f the 
 Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — Ant-IIills — Tropeiros — Curious Items of Trade — • 
 Ypiranga — City of San Paulo — Law-Studeuts aud Convents — Mr. Mawe's Espe- 
 rienco contrasted — Description of the City — Respect for S. Paulo — The Vibionary 
 Hotel-Keeper '. '. 354 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 History of San Paulo — Terrestrial Paradise — Reverses of the Jesuits — Enslavement 
 of the Indians — Historical Data — The Academy of Laws — Course of Study — Dis- 
 ^ tinguished Men — The Andradas — Jose Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos — Alvares 
 Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop Moura — A Visit to Feijo — Proposition to abolish 
 Celibacy — An Interesting Book — The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada — High 
 Eulogium — Missionary Efforts in San Paulo — Early and Present Condition of the 
 Province — Hospitalities of a Padre — Encouragements — The People — Proposition 
 to the Provincial Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present Eucourage- 
 meuts 366 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Agreeable Acquaintance — Old Congo's Spurs — Lodging and Sleeping — Company — 
 Campinas — Illuminations — A Night among the Lowly — Arrival at Liraeira — 
 A Pennsylvanian — A Night with a Boa Constrictor — Eventful and Romantic Life 
 of a Naturalist — The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural 
 Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch of the Vergueiros — Plan of Colonization — Bridge of 
 Novel Construction — Future Prospects 396 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 A New Disease — The Culture of Chinese Tea in Brazil — Modus Operandi — The 
 Deceived Custom-House Officials — Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South 
 America — Homeward Bound — My Companion — Senhor Jose and a Little Diffi- 
 culty with him — California and the Musical Innkeeper — Early Start and the Star- 
 Spangled Banner — The Senhores Brotero of S. Paulo — Fourth of July inaugurated 
 in an English Family — "Yankee Doodle" on the Plains of Ypiranga — Lame and 
 Impotent Conclusion — Astronomy under Difficulties — Deliverance — Return to Rio 
 de Janeiro 416 
 
Contents. 11 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 PAOI 
 
 The Brazilian North — Extent of the Empire— The Falls of Itamarity — Gigantic Fig- 
 Xree— The Keel-Bill — A Plantation iu Miuas-Goraes— Peter Parley in Brazil — 
 Sweot Leuions — Baronial Style — The Padre — Vesper-Hours — The Plantation- 
 Orchestra— The White Ants obedient to the Church — The Great Ant-Eator — The 
 Paca — The A'usical Cart — The Mines and other llesources of Minas-Geraes — 
 Cotfee: its Ilisiury and Culture — The Province of Goyaz — Stingless Beos and Sour 
 Honey — Mato Grosso — Long River-Route to the Atlantic — A Now Thoroughfare 
 — Lieutenant Thomas J. Page — The Survey of the La Plata and its Aflluonts — 
 First American Steamer at Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation on the Paraguay — 
 Officers of the American Navy — Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain — Diamond and 
 Gold Mines the Hinderers of Progress — The Difierence in the Results from Dia- 
 monds and ColTee 432 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Cape Frio — Wreck of the Frigate Thetis — Campos — Espirito Santo — Aborigines — 
 Origin of Indian Civilization — The Palm-Tree and its Uses — The Tupi-Guarani — 
 The Liugoa Geral — Ferocity of the Aymores — The City of Bahia — Porters — Cadeiras 
 — History of Bahia — Caramuru — Attack on the Hollanders — Measures tnken by 
 Spain — The City retaken — The Dutch in Brazil — Slave-Trade — Sociability of 
 Bahia — Mr. Gilmer, American Consul — The Humming-Bird — Whale-Fishery — 
 American Cemetery — Henry Alartyn — Visit to Montserrat — View of the City — The 
 Emperor's Birthday — Medical School — Public Library — Image-Factory — The 
 Wonderful Image of St. Anthony — No Miracle — St. Anthony a Colonel — Visit to 
 Valenfa — Daring Navigation — In Puna Naturalihus — The Factory and Colonel 
 Carson — American Machinery — Skilful Negroes — Return Home — Commerce with 
 the United States 464 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Departure from Bahia — The Vampire-Bat — His Manner of Attack — The Bitten 
 Negro — Annoyances magnified — Anacondas — One that swallowed a Hoarse — The 
 Marmoset — Province of Alagoaz — The Republic of Palmares — Peruambuco — The 
 Amenities of Quarantine-Lite — Improvements at the Recife — Peculiarities of Per- 
 nambucan Houses — Beautiful Panorama — Various Districts of the City — A Bible-, 
 Christian — Extraordinary Fauatieism of the Sebastianists — Commerce of Pernam- 
 buco — The Population of the Interior — The Sertanejo and Market-Scene — The 
 Sugar and Cotton Mart — The Jangad.i — Parahiba do Norte — Natal — Ceard, — The 
 Paviola — Temperature and Periodical Rains — The City of Maranham — Judge 
 Petit's Description — The Montaria — Departure 503 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Magnificence of Nature in the Brazilian North — The City of Parii — The Entrance of 
 the Amazon — The first Protestant Sermon on these Waters — Parallel to the Black- 
 Hole of Calcutta — Eifects of Steam-Navigation — Improvements in Parii — The Canoa 
 — Bathing and Market Scenes — Produce of Para — India-Rubber — Pari Shoes — The 
 Amazon River — Mr. Wallace's Explorations — The Vaca Marina — Cetacea of the 
 Amazon — Turtle-Egg Butter — Indian Archery — Brazilian Birds and Insects — Visit 
 to Rice-Mills near Pard. — Journey through the Forest — The Paraense Bishop's Sus- 
 picions of Dr. Kidder — State of Religion at Pard 539 
 
12 - Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 PAoa 
 
 Amazonas— Its Discovery — El Dorado — Gonjalo Pizarro — His Expedition — Cruel- 
 ties — Suflerings — Desertion of Orellana — Ilis Descent of the River — Fable of the 
 Amazons — Fate of the Adventurer — Name of the River — Settlement of the 
 Country — Successive Expeditions up and down the Amazon — Sufferings of 
 Madame Godin — Present State — Victoria Regia — Steam-Navigation — Effects of 
 Herndon and Gibbon's Report — Peruvian Steamers — The Future Prospects of the 
 Amazon 563 
 
 Conclusion 582 
 
 NToTES 599 
 
 APPENDICES. 
 
 Appendix A. — Chronological Summary of the Principal Events that have transpired 
 in the History of Brazil 601 
 
 Appendix B. — Abstract of the Brazilian Constitution, sworn to on the 25th of 
 March, 1824, and revised in 1834 603 
 
 Appendix C. — Lines composed by D. Pedro II 605 
 
 Appendix D. — Slavery and the Slave-Trade in Brazil — England and Brazil 606 
 
 Appendix E. — Tables of Brazilian Coins, Weights, and Measures 607 
 
 Appendix F. — Population — The Yellow Fever of Brazil 609 
 
 Appendix G. — Imports, Exports, Revenue, Ac. of Brazil 614 
 
 Appendix H. — Recent Discoveries of Coal in Brazil 617 
 
 Appendix I. — Religious Disabilities 625 
 
 Appendix J. — Professor Agassiz's Labors on the Amazon 627 
 
 Appendix K. — Thermometrical Observations at Rio de Janeiro in 1864 634 
 
BATOF 
 
 Scale of'Six'OeopraphicalNUe^ 
 
 hmda ^\ 
 
 1 /. t'/" \ "iUt'ijaijnoii . . 
 
 2 Aiu^onuiotorMen of War, ^. 
 
 3 Atu^iompe for Menlmnt VosmU 
 
 dischttrtiuig Carao 
 
 4 Anciwrniie tor 2d.Vessdjfreeeiiin^ Ovyo 
 
 5 \al/on*jO- ^ . -- 
 
 6 (rtWlbtUl _ . 
 
 7 (iun/to S.Anna 
 
 8 Passeio Ptihlicv 
 
 9 XS''t/n Moa JYot^tvn 
 
 ID S.ffeniro 
 
THE SUGAR-LOAF, (ENTRANCE TO THE BAY OF RIO.) 
 
 giprzil ma tlt(| grrfianji. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 THE BAT OF RIO DE JANEIRO HISTORIC REMINISCENCES FIRST SIGHT OF THR 
 
 TROPICS ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR NIGHT-SCENES IMPRESSIONS OF BEAUTY 
 
 AND GRANDEUR GARDNER AND STEWART THE CAPITAL OF BRAZIL DISTINC- 
 TION OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 The Bay of Naples, the Golden Horn of Constantinople, and the 
 
 Bay of Eio de Janeiro, are always mentioned by the travelled 
 
 tourist as pre-eminently worthy to be classed together for their 
 
 extent, and for the beauty and sublimity of their scenery. The first 
 
 two, however, must yield the palm to the last-named magnificent 
 
 sheet of water, which, in a climate of perpetual summer, is enclosed 
 
 within the ranges of singularly-picturesque mountains, and is 
 
 dotted with the verdure-covered islands of the tropics. He who, 
 
 13 
 
14 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 in Switzerland, has gazed from the Quai of Yevay, or from the 
 windows of the old Castle of Chillon, upon the grand panorama of 
 the upper end of the Lake of Geneva, can have an idea of the 
 general vicAv of the Bay of Eio de Janeiro; and there was much 
 truth and beauty in the remark of the Swiss, who, looking for the 
 first time on the native splendor of the Brazilian bay and its circlet 
 of mountains, exclaimed, "C'est V Helvetic Meridionalel" (It is the 
 Southern Switzerland !) 
 
 What a glorious spectacle must have presented itself to those 
 early navigators — De Solis, Majellan, and Martin Aifonso de Souza — • 
 who were the first Europeans that ever sailed through the narrow 
 portal which constitutes the entrance to Nictherohy, (^Hidden 
 Water,) as these almost land locked waters were appropriately and 
 poetically termed by the Tamoyo Indians ! Though the moun- 
 tain-sides and borders of the bay are still richly and luxuriantly 
 clothed, then all the primeval forests existed, and gave a wilder 
 and more striking beauty to a scene so enchanting in a natural 
 point of view, even after three centuries of the encroachments of 
 man. De Souza — as the common tradition runs — supposed that 
 he had entered the mouth of a mighty river, rivalling the Orinoco 
 and the Amazon, and named it Eio de Janeiro, {River of January,') 
 after the happy month — January, 1531 — in which he made his 
 imagined discovery. Whatever may have been the origin of this 
 misnomer, it is not only applied to the large and commodious bay, 
 but to the province in which it is situated, and to the populous metro- 
 polis of Brazil, which sits like a queen upon its bright shpres. 
 
 We all of us know, either by our own experience or by that 
 of others, what is the sight of land to the tempest-tossed voyager. 
 When the broad blue circle of sea and sky, Avhich for days and 
 weeks has encompassed his vision, is at length broken by a shore, 
 — even though that shore be bleak and desolate as the ice-moun- 
 tains of the Arctic regions, — it is invested with a surpassing 
 interest, it is robed in undreamed-of charms. What, then, must 
 be the emotions of one who, coming from a latitude of stormy 
 winter, beholds around him a land of perpetual summer, with its 
 towering and crested palms, and its giant vegetation arrayed in 
 fadeless green ! 
 
 In December, 1851, when the Iludson and the Potomac were 
 
Entrance to the Harbor. 15 
 
 bridged by the ice-king, and clouds and snow draped the sky and 
 the kind, our good vessel stood out upon a stormy sea. A few 
 weeks of gales and rolling waves, varied by light winds and calms, 
 brought us to Capo Fino. This isolated peak shoots up as steeply 
 as the chalk-cliffs of England, as high as the Rock of Gibraltar, 
 and is covered to its very summit with verdure. No clouds — as I 
 last beheld them in conjunction with terra firma — were frown- 
 ing over this summer-land. The balmiest breezes were blowing, 
 and the palms upon the adjacent hills were gracefully waving 
 above the world of veo'etation — so new to me — which c-leamed in 
 the warm sunlight. It was in the midst of such a scene that the 
 day, not without evening-glories, faded away. The morning sun 
 shone clearlj', and the lofty mountain-range near the entrance to the 
 harbor stood forth in an outline at once bold, abrupt, and beautiful. 
 The first entrance of any one to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro forms 
 
 an era in his existence : — 
 
 " an hour 
 Whence he may date thenceforward and forever." 
 
 Even the dullest observer must afterward cherish sublimer views 
 of the manifold beauty and majesty of the works of the Creator. 
 I have seen the most rude and ignorant Russian sailor, the im- 
 moral and unreflecting Australian adventurer, as well as the culti- 
 vated and refined European gentleman, stand silent upon the deck, 
 mutually admiring the gigantic avenue of mountains and palm- 
 covered isles, which, like the granite pillars before the Temple 
 of Luxor, form a fitting colonnade to the portal of the finest bay 
 in the world. 
 
 On either side of that contracted entrance, as far as the eye can 
 reach, stretch away the mountains, whose pointed and fantastic 
 shapes recall the glories of Alj^land. On our left, the Sugar-Loaf 
 stands like a giant sentinel to the metropolis of Brazil. The round 
 and green summits of the Tres Irraaos {Three Brothers) are in 
 strong contrast with the peaks of Corcovado and Tijuca ; while 
 the Gavia rears its huge sail-like form, and half hides the fading 
 line of mountains which extends to the very borders of Rio Grande 
 do Sul. On the right, another loft}'' range commences near tho 
 principal fortress which commands the entrance of the bay, and, 
 forming curtain-like ramparts, reaches away, in picturesque head- 
 
16 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 lands, to the bold j^romontory well knoAvn to all South Atlantic 
 navigators as Cape Frio. Far through the opening of the bay, and 
 in some places towering even above the lofty coast-barrier, can be 
 discovered the blue outline of the distant Organ Mountains, whose 
 lofty pinnacles will at once suggest the origin of their name. 
 
 The general effect is truly sublime; but as the vessel draAvs 
 nearer to the bold shore, and we see, on the sides of the double 
 mount which rises in the rear of Santa Cruz, the peculiar bright- 
 leaved woods of Brazil, with here and there the purple-blooming 
 quaresma-tree, — and when we observe that the snake-like cacti and 
 rich-flowering parasites shoot forth and hang down even from the 
 jagged and precipitous sides of the Sugar-Loaf, — and as we single 
 out in every nook and crevice new evidences of a genial and pro- 
 lific clime, — emotion, before overwhelmed by vastness of outline, 
 now unburdens itself in every conceivable exclamation of surprise 
 and admiration. 
 
 The breeze is wafting us onward, and we pass beneath the white 
 walls of the Santa Cruz fortress. A black soldier, dressed in a 
 light uniform of enviable coolness, leans lazily over a parapet, 
 while higher up on the ramparts a sentinel marches with leisurely 
 tread near the glass cupola which, illuminated at night, serves as a 
 guide to the entering mariner. Immediately an enormous trumpet 
 is protruded from this cupola, and our good ship is saluted by a 
 stentorian voice, demanding, in Portuguese-English, the usual 
 questions put to vessels sailing into a foreign port. We soon glide 
 from under the frowning guns of Santa Cruz, and are just abreast 
 Fort Lage, celebrated as the first spot of the bay ever inhabited by 
 civilized man. The scene which now opens before us is exquisitely 
 beautiful. Far to our left, beneath the Sugar-Loaf, but nearer to 
 the city, is the fortress of St. John, bright amid the surrounding 
 verdure. Passing through a fleet of gracefully shaped canoes and 
 market-boats, manned by half-clad blacks, we cling to the steep 
 right-hand coast, which soon precipitously terminates, and reveals 
 to us the lovely little Bay of Jurujuba, — the "five-fathom" bay of 
 the English. Again looking to the opposite side, beyond St. John, 
 we have a glimpse of the graceful Cove of Botafoga (the Bay of 
 Naples in miniature) and the pretty suburb of the same name, 
 which seems like a jewel set between the smooth white beach and 
 
C -5 
 
Tropic Night-scenes. 17 
 
 vhe broad circle of living green. Here too we have another of the 
 many views of the Corcovado and the Gavia, which, as we vary 
 our position, are ever changing and ever beautiful. 
 
 Now the vast city looms up before us, extending, with its white 
 suburbs, for miles along the irregular shores of the bay, and run- 
 ning far back almost to the foot of the Tijuca Mountains, diversified 
 by green hills Avhich seem to spring up from the most pojiulous 
 neighborhoods. These combined cii-cumstances prevent a perfect 
 view of Ilio de Janeiro from the waters. While gazing uj^on the 
 domes and steeples, on the white edifices of, the city, and the bright 
 verdure-clad Gloria, Santa Theresa, and Castello Hills, we are cut 
 short in our admiration by the cry of a Brazilian official : — " Let go 
 your anchor." The command is obeyed, and we are comfortably 
 lying to under the formidable-looking guns of the Fortelcza Ville- 
 gagnon. Our vessel swings round and reveals to us on the opposite 
 shore the city of Praia Grande, the parti-colored cliff' of St. Do- 
 mingo, and upon a mere rock, which seems a fragment of the ad- 
 joining shore, the little church of Nossa Senhora de Boa Viagem, 
 in which Eoman Catholic voyagei'S are supposed to pay their vows, 
 and around which many graceful palm-trees are nodding in the 
 cool ocean-breeze. While awaiting the visit of the custom-house 
 oflScers we remain upon deck, and tire not of scenes so novel and 
 exciting. Little steamers and graceful falluas* are passing and re- 
 passing from Praia Grande and St. Domingo. White sails are dot- 
 ting the bay as far as the eye can reach, while all around us the 
 serried masts of Brazilian and foreign vessels are evidences that we 
 are in the midst of a vast and busy mart. 
 
 The night soon succeeds the short twilight of the tropics, and the 
 city from our ship seems like a land of fairy enchantment. Bril- 
 liancy and novelty do not end with the day. Innumerable gas- 
 lights line the immense borders of the city down to the very edge 
 of the bay, and are reflected back from the water in a thousand 
 'quivering flashes. The very forms of the hills themselves are de- 
 fined amid the darkness by rows of lamps extending over their 
 verdure-clad summits, and seem like the fabled star-bridges of an 
 Arabian tale. The steam ferry-boats bear various-colored lights, 
 
 * See engraving on page 60. 
 2 
 
18 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and each vessel in the harhor has a lamp at its fore; while every 
 turn of the wheel furrows through a diamond sea, and every dash 
 of the oar and every ripple from the gentle evening breeze reveals 
 a thousand brilliant phosphorescent animalciilse illuminating the 
 otherwise darkened waters. When we look above us we behold new 
 constellations spangling the heavens, and their queen is the Southern 
 Cross, guarded by her silent and mysterious attendants, the Majel- 
 lan Clouds. The Great Bear has long since been hidden from us; 
 but just peeping over the natural ramparts of the Organ Mountains, 
 we see an old and a welcome friend in that beaming Orion, who here 
 loses none of his northern splendor, and does not even pale before 
 his rival of the Southern Hemisphere. Amid such scenes who 
 could close their eyelids in sleep ? Dr. Kidder on one occasion, re- 
 turning from the northern provinces, entered the harbor at night- 
 fall during a squall, and thus describes the scene : — 
 
 " We passed close under the walls of Fort Santa Cruz ; but, just 
 as the vessel was in the most critical part of the passage, the wind 
 lulled, and the current of the ebbing tide swept her back, and by 
 degrees carried her over toward the rocks upon which Fort Lage 
 is constructed. The moment- was one of great excitement and 
 danger. Our situation was perceived at the forts, which severally 
 fired guns, and burned white and blue lights, in order to show us 
 their position. 
 
 "A more sublime scene can hardly be imagined. The rolling 
 thunders of the cannon were echoed back by the surrounding 
 mountain-peaks, and the brilliant glare of the artificial flames ap- 
 peared the more intense in the midst of unusual darkness. Happily 
 for the vessel and all on board, the wind freshened in time, and we 
 were borne gallantly up to the man-of-war anchorage, where, at 
 nine o'clock, we were lying moored to not less than seventy fathoms 
 of chain. 
 
 "The moon had not yet risen, and the evening remained very 
 dark. This circumstance heightened the beauty of the city and 
 the effect of her thousand lamps, which were seen brightly burn- 
 ing at measured intervals over the hills and praias of her far- 
 stretching suburbs. One young man was so enchanted with the 
 novelty and splendor of the scene, that he remained on deck all 
 night to gaze upon it, notwithstanding rain fell at intervals." 
 
Beauty and Grandeur. 19 
 
 More than one have had to confess tliat their first twenty-four 
 hours hefore Eio have been spent in a pcrpendicuh^r position with 
 the eyes wide open, and could exchiim, with empliasis, — 
 
 " Most gloi'ious night ! 
 Thou wert not sent for slumber." 
 
 Every thing is so fresh, so novel and awakening, that we are like 
 children on the eve of some great festival or the night before the 
 first journe}" to some vast city Avith whose wonders the story-book 
 and the improvisations of the nursery have filled the imagination 
 to the full. 
 
 I have again and again entered and quitted the Bay of Eio de 
 Janeiro when the billows were surging and when the calm mantled 
 the deep; and, whether in the purple light of a ti'Opic morning; 
 in the garish noon, or in the too brief twilight of that Southern 
 clime, it has alwaj^s presented to me new glories and new charms. 
 It has been my privilege to look upon some of the most celebrated 
 scenes of both hemispheres; but I have never found one which 
 combined so much to be admired as the panorama which we have 
 attempted to describe. On the Height of St. Elmo I have drank in 
 as much of beaut}^ from that curvilinear bay of Southern Italy, 
 upon whose bosom float the isles of Capri and Ischia, and upon 
 whose margin nestle the gracefull3'-shaped Vesuvius, the long arm 
 of Sorrento, and the proverbially-brilliant city of Naples. I have 
 seen very great variety in the blue, isle-dotted Bay of Panama; 
 and I have beheld in the Alps, and in the western entrance to the 
 Straits of Majellan, where the black, jagged Andes are rent asunder, 
 scenes of wildness and sublimity without parallel; but, all things 
 considered, I have jet to gaze upon a scene which surpasses, in 
 combined beauty, variety, and grandeur, the mountain-engirdled 
 Nictherohy. 
 
 The above impressions were penned before I had read, with a 
 single exception, one of the many detailed descriptions of the Bay 
 of Eio de Janeiro; and it occurred to me that those who had never 
 Been the natural beauties of this region would not give ready 
 assent to its exaltation above so many other places famous for 
 their scenery. Such might say, "He is an enthusiast, an exagge- 
 rator.'.' I have since perused many books, journals, and letters 
 
20 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 on Brazil; and all — from the ponderous tomes of Spix and Yon 
 Martius, down to the ephemeral lines of a contributor to the news- 
 papers — are of one accord in regard to this wonderful bay. Though 
 the works may be devoted to history, science, commerce, or to the 
 epistolary correspondence of friends, in this respect they all bear a 
 resemblance; for all draw the same portrait and from the same 
 original. Indeed, when reading the description given by the late 
 lamented English botanist, Gardner, I half suspected myself a 
 plagiarist, though I had never read his interesting and truly 
 valuable travels until my own account was written. 
 
 Describing the entrance of the harbor, this naturalist says, — 
 "Passing through the magnificent portal of the bay, we came to 
 an anchor a few miles below the city, not being allowed to proceed 
 farther until visited by the authorities. It is quite impossible to 
 express the feelings which arise in the mind while the eye surveys 
 the beautifully-varied scener}^ which is disclosed on entering the 
 harbor, — scenery which is perhaps unequalled on the face of the 
 earth, and on the production of which nature seems to have 
 exerted all her energies. Since then I have visited many places 
 celebrated for their beauty and their grandeur, but none of them 
 have left a like impression on my mind. As far up the bay as the 
 <!ye could reach, lovely little verdant and palm-clad islands were to 
 be seen rising out of its dark bosom ; while the hills and lofty 
 mountains which surround it on all sides, gilded by the rays of the 
 setting sun, formed a befitting frame for such a picture. At night 
 the lights of the city had a fine effect; and when the land-breeze 
 began to blow, the rich odor of the orange and other perfumed 
 flowers Avas borne seaward along with it, and, by me at least, 
 enjoyed the more from having been so long shut out from the 
 companionship of flowers. Ceylon has been celebrated by voyagers 
 for its spicy odors; but I have twice made its shores, with a land- 
 breeze blowing, without experiencing any thing half so sweet as 
 those which greeted my arrival at Eio." 
 
 The description given by the Eev. C. S. Stewart is valuable in 
 bhowing the impressions of this magnificent bay upon one who 
 had, since his first visit to Brazil, viewed some of the most re- 
 now^ned scenes in the world : — 
 
 "I was anxious to test the fidelity of the impressions received 
 
The Capital of Brazil. 21 
 
 twenty years ago from the same scenery, and to determine how 
 far the magnificent picture still lingering in my memory was 
 justified by the realif.y, or how far it was to be attributed to the 
 enthusiasm of younger years and the freshness of less experienced 
 travel. The early light of the morning quickly determined the 
 point. I was hurried to the deck by a message from Lieutenant 
 E , already' there, and do not recollect ever to have been im- 
 pressed with higher admiration by any picture in still life than by 
 the group of mountains and the coast-scene meeting my eyes on 
 the left. The wildness and sublimity of outline of the Piio do 
 Assucar, Dous Irmaos, Gavia, and Corcovado, and their fantastic 
 combinations, from the point at which we viewed them, can scarce 
 be rivalled; while the richness and beaut}' of coloring thrown 
 over and around the whole, in purple and gold, rose-color, and 
 ethereal blue, were all that the varied and glowing tints of the 
 rising day ever impart. No fancj^-sketch of fa'.ry-land could sur- 
 pass this scene, and we stood gazing upon it as if fascinated by the 
 work of a master-hand." 
 
 The city of Kio de Janeiro, or San Sebastian, is at once the 
 commercial emporium and the political capital of the nation. 
 "While Brazil embraces a greater territorial dominion than any 
 other country of the New World, together with natural advan- 
 tages second to none on the globe, the position, the scenery, 
 and the increasing magnitude of its capital render it a metro- 
 polis worthy of the empire. Eio de Janeiro is the largest city 
 of South America, the third in size on the Western Continent, 
 and boasts an antiquit}' greater than that of any city in the 
 United States. 
 
 Its harbor is situated just within the borders of the Southern 
 Torrid Zone, and communicates, as before described, with the 
 wide-rolling Atlantic, by a deep and narrow passage between two 
 granite mountains. This enti'ance is so safe as to render the ser- 
 vices of a pilot entirely unnecessary. So commanding, however, 
 is the position of the various fortresses at the mouth of the harbor 
 upon its islands and on the surrounding heights, that, if efficiently 
 manned by a body of determined men, they might defy the hostile 
 ingress of the proudest navies in the world. 
 
 Once within this mag^iiificent bay of Nitherohy, the wanderer 
 
22 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of the seas may safely moor his bark withiu hearing of the roar of 
 the ocean-surf 
 
 The aspect which Rio do Janeiro jircsents to the beholder bears 
 no resemblance to the compact brick walls, the dingy roofs, the 
 tall chimneys, and the generally-even sites of our Northern cities. 
 Its surface is diversified by hills of irregular but picturesque shape, 
 which shoot up in different dii*ections, leaving between them flat 
 intervals of greater or less extent. Along the bases of these hills, 
 and up their sides, stand rows of buildings, whose wdiitencd walls 
 and red-tiled roofs are in happy contrast with the deep-green 
 foliage that always surrounds and often embowers them. 
 
 The most prominent eminence, almost in front of us, is the Morro 
 do Castello, which overlooks the mouth of the harbor, and on 
 which is the tall signal-staff that announces, in connection with the 
 telegraph on Babylonia Hill, the nation, class, and position of every 
 vessel that appears in the offing. Upon our right we see the 
 convent-crowned hill of San Bento; and if we could have a bird's- 
 eye view from a point midway between the turrets of the convent 
 and the signal-staff of Morro do Castello, we should see the city 
 sj^read beneath us, with its streets, steeples, and towers, its public 
 edifices, parks, and vermillion chimneyless roofs, and its aqueducts 
 spanning the spaces between the seven green hills, constituting a 
 gigantic mosaic, bordered upon one side by the mountains, and on 
 the other by the blue waters of the bay. 
 
 From the central portion of the city the suburbs extend about 
 four miles in each of the three principal directions, so that the 
 municipality of Bio de Janeiro, containing five hundred thousand 
 inhabitants, covers a greater extent of ground than any European 
 city of the same population. 
 
 Here dwell a large pai't of the nobility of the nation, and, for a 
 considerable portion of the year, the representatives of the different 
 provinces, the ministers of state, the foreign ambassadors and 
 consuls, and a commingled populace of native Brazilians and of 
 foreigners from almost every clime. That which in the popular 
 estimation, however, confers the greatest distinction upon Bio, is 
 not the busy throng of foreign and home merchants, sea-captains, 
 ordinary Government-officials, and the upper classes of society; but 
 it is in the fact that here resides the imperial head of Brazil, the 
 
Distinction of Rio de Janeiro. ' 23 
 
 young and gifted Doni Pedro II., who unites the blood of the lira- 
 ganzas and the Ilapsburgs, and under whose constitutional rule 
 civil liberty, religious toleration, and general prosperity are better 
 secured than in any other Government of the New World, save 
 where the Anglo-Saxon bears sway. 
 
 Attractive as may be the natural scenery and the beauties of art 
 abounding in any country, it must be confessed that human exist- 
 ence, with its weal or woe, involves a far deeper interest. And the 
 traveller but poorly accomplishes his task of delineating the pre- 
 sent, if he leaves unattempted some sketches of the history of the 
 past as an introduction to the scenes and events which have come 
 under his own observation. After glancing rapidly at some of the 
 most striking sights and customs of Hio de Janeiro, I shall intro- 
 duce a brief sketch of its past history. 
 
HOTEL PHAROUX. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 LANDING HOTEL PHAROUX NOVEL SIGHTS AND SOUNDS THE PALACE SQUARE — 
 
 EUA DIREITA EXCHANGE THE " TEAM " MUSICAL COFFEE-CABKIERS — CUSTOM- 
 HOUSE — LESSONS IN PORTUGUESE, AND GOVERNOR KENt's OPINION OF BRAZIL 
 
 POST-OFFICE DISLIKE OF CHANGE — SENHOR JOSE MAXWELL RUA DO OUVIDOR 
 
 SHOPS AND FEATHER-FLOWERS THE BRAZILIAN OMNIBUS CAN BE FULL 
 
 NARROW STREETS AND POLICE-REGULATIONS A SUGGESTION TO RELIEVE 
 
 BROADWAY, NEW YORK PASSEIO PUBLICO — BRAZILIAN POLITENESS THE " GON- 
 DOLA" — THE BRAZILIAN IMPERTURBABLE LACK OF HOTELS FIRST NIGHT IN 
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 The stranger who, with anxious expectation, has paced the dock 
 of his vessel as it lies at anchor under Villegagnon, knows no more 
 welcome sound than the permission from the Custom-House and 
 health officers to land and roam through the city which for hours 
 before his eyes have visited. The blacks who have come from the 
 shore now return, pulling their heavy boat lustily along, for they 
 arc sure of a treble price from the newly-arrived. Who that has 
 visited Eio de Janeiro will not at a glance recognise the landing- 
 place depicted in the engraving? Hotel Pharoux, the Palace Stairs, 
 and the Largo do Pago, (Palace Square,) are associated with Rio de 
 
 Janeiro in the mind of every foreign naval officer who has been on 
 21 
 
Novel Sights and Sounds. 25 
 
 the Brazil station. But '"•liangcs liave taken place, and greater are 
 in contemplation, among this slow-moving people. Hotel Pharoux 
 still lifts its gray walls; but it is modernized, and the old restau- 
 rant and stable in the basement have given way to shell-merchants 
 and feather-flower dealers, and the upper stories form a private hos- 
 pital. We no longer land at the Palace Stairs, where formerly at 
 flood-tide the waters of the bay dashed and foamed against tho 
 stone parajiet which at this point marked their limit. The square 
 has been extended into tho waves, and soon the Government will 
 have fine quays along the whole water-edge in this part of the 
 city. 
 
 Instead of the old granite steps, we ascend the wooden stairs at 
 the end of a long jetty. Here our boat has arrived, amid odors 
 that cei'tainly have not been wafted fi*om "Araby the blest," and 
 we learn that the sewerage of Eio is a portable instead of an under- 
 ground atfair. The sense of hearing, too, is wounded by the con- 
 fused jabbering of blacks in the language of Congo, the shouts 
 of Portuguese boat-owners, and by the oaths of American and 
 English sailors. Once clear of this throng, what novel sights and 
 sounds astonish us! A hackney-coachman, in glazed hat and red 
 vest, invites us to a ride to the Botanical Gardens; a smart-looking 
 mulatto points to his '^ carriage" hard by the Hotel de France. 
 Before their words are ended, the roll of drums and the blast of 
 bugles attract our attention in another direction. There, in front 
 of the old palace, is drawn up a handful of the National Guard, 
 composed of every imaginable complexion, from white to African; 
 and now, as every day at noon, they remove their helmets, listen 
 for a moment with religious veneration to the strain of music 
 which the black trumpeters puff out from swelling cheeks, and then 
 resume, w4th the exception of the sentinels, their difficult task of 
 loitering in the corridors of the huge building, or basking in the 
 sunshine, until another sound of the bugle shall call them to .hango 
 guard or fall into ranks at vespers. 
 
 We are not yet readj^ to try the vehicles of Rio de Janeiro; so 
 we dismiss our would-be coachmen, and look around us in the 
 Largo do Pa§o. 
 
 At the Palace Square the stranger finds himself surrounded by a 
 throng as diverse in habits and appearance, and as variegated in 
 
26 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 complexion and costume, as his fancy ever jDictured. The majority 
 of the crowd are Africans, who collect around the fountain to 
 obtain water, which flows from a score of pipes, and, when caught 
 in tubs or barrels, is borne off upon the heads of both males and 
 females. 
 
 The slaves go barefooted, but some of them are gayly dressed 
 Their sociability wdien congregated in these resorts is usually 
 extreme, but sometimes it ends in differences and blows. To pre- 
 vent disorders of this kind, soldiers are generally stationed near 
 the fountains, who are pretty sure to maintain their authority 
 over the unresisting blacks. Formerly there were only a few 
 principal fountains; now there are large chaf arizes in all the 
 
 THE LARGO DO PACO, AND RUA OIREITA, FROM THE PALACE. 
 
 squares, and at the corners of ever^'^ third or fourth street are 
 smaller streams of the pure element, which flow at the turning of 
 a stopcock. 
 
 The Palace is a large stone building, exhibiting the old Portuguese 
 
The Palace Square. 27 
 
 style of architecture. It was long used as a residence by the vice- 
 roys, and for a time by Dom John VI., but is now appropriated to 
 various public offices, and contains a suite of rooms in which court 
 is held on gala-days. The buildings at the rear of the Palace 
 Square (represented on the left of the engraving) were all erected 
 for ecclesiastical purposes. The oldest was a Franciscan convent, 
 but has long since been connected with the Palace, and used for 
 pecular purposes. The old chapel, with its short, thick tower, 
 remains, but has been superseded, in popularity as w^ell as in 
 sijlendor, by the more recently-erected imperial chapel, which, 
 without belfry, stands at its right. Adjoining the imperial chapel 
 is that of the third order of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, which is 
 daily open, and is used as a cathedral. The steeples of this church 
 during certain festivals are illuminated to the very crosses, and 
 present a splendid appearance from the shipping. 
 
 The streets of the city are generall}' quite naiTOw; but the Rua 
 Direita, which is seen in the above cut beyond the Largo do Pago, 
 is wide, and well paved with small square blocks of stone which are 
 brought from the Isle of Wight. The Bua Direita and many of 
 the principal streets of Eio de Janeiro are now as well paved as 
 the finest thoroughfares of London or Vienna, pi'csenting a great 
 contrast to the former irregular and miserable pavement, which 
 was in use up to 1.854. The Rua Direita and the Largo do Rocio 
 are the points whence otnnibuses start for every portion of the vast 
 city and its suburbs. 
 
 The houses seldom exceed three or four stories; but a four-story 
 house at Eio is equal in height to one of five in New Yoi"k. For- 
 merly nearly all were occupied as dwellings, and even in the streets 
 devoted to business the first floors only were appi-opriated to the 
 storage and displa}^ of goods, while fixmilies resided above. But 
 since 1850 this has greatly changed in the quarter where the 
 wholesale houses are found : j^roprietors and clerks now reside in 
 the picturesque suburbs of Botafogo, Engenho Velho, and across 
 the bay at Praia Grande or San Domingo. Every evening presents 
 an animated spectacle of crowded steamers, full omnibuses, and 
 galloping horses and mules, all conveying the negociantes and 
 caixeiros (bookkeppers) to their respective residences. 
 
 The distant steeples on our left are those of the Church of 
 
28 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Candelaiia, which is situated on a narrow street back from the 
 Eua Direita. It is the hirgest church in the city, and presents 
 taller spires and a handsomer front than any other. 
 
 The Fraga do Commercio, or Exchange, occupies a prominent 
 position in the Eua Direita. This building, formerly a part of the 
 Custom-House, was ceded by Government for its present purposes 
 in 1834. It contains a reading-room, supplied with Brazilian and 
 foreign newspapers, and is subject to the usual regulations of such 
 an establishment in other cities. Beneath its spacious portico 
 the merchants of eight or nine different nations meet each other 
 in the morning to interchange salutations and to negotiate their 
 general business. The Exchange is not far from the Custom-House, 
 which formerly had its miin entrance adjoining the Pra§a. 
 
 THE RIO TEAM (NOW ABOLISHED). 
 
 Nothing can be more animated and peculiar than the scenes 
 which are witnessed in this part of the Eua Direita during the 
 business-hours of the day, — viz. : from nine a.m. to three p.m. It is 
 in these hours only that vessels are permitted to discharge and receive 
 their carijoes, and at the same time all e:oods and baimao-e must be 
 despatched at the Custom-House and removed therefrom. Conse- 
 quent upon such arrangements, the utmost activit}'' is required to 
 remove the goods despatched, and to embark those productions of 
 the country that are daily required in the transactions of a vast 
 commercial emporium. There Avere the black-coated merchants 
 
The Musical Coffee-Carriers. 
 
 29 
 
 congregated about the Exchange, and there came the negro dray. 
 The team consisted of five stalwart Africans pushing, pulling, steer- 
 ing, and shouting as they made their way amid the sei-ried throng, 
 unmindful of the Madeira Islander, who, with an imprecation and 
 a crack of his whip, urged on a thundering mule-cart laden with 
 boxes. Now an omnibus thunders through the crowd, and a large 
 four-wheeled Avagon, belonging to Smith's Express for the trans- 
 portation of "goods," rolls in its wake. Formerly all this labor 
 was pei'formed by human hands, and scarcely a cart or a dray was 
 used in the city, unless, indeed, it was drawn by negroes. Carts 
 and wagons propelled by horse-power are now quite common; but 
 for the moving of light burdens and for the transportation of furni- 
 ture, pianos, &c. the negro's head has not been superseded by any 
 vehicle until 1862, when Smith's Express, and large wagons called 
 andorinhas, came in vogue, except for pianos. 
 
 THE FORMER COFFEE CARRIERS OF RIO DE JANEIRO, 
 
 In 1857, while we were almost stunned by the sounds of the mul- 
 titude, we had a new source of wonderment. Above all the confu- 
 sion of the Eua Direita, we heard a stentorian chorus of voices re- 
 sponding in quick measure to the burden of a song. We beheld, 
 over the heads of the throng, a line of wdiite sacks rushing around 
 the corner of the Eua da Alfandega, (^Custom- House Street.) We 
 hastened to that portion of Eua Direita, and saw that these sacks 
 had each a living ebony Hercules beneath. These were the far- 
 
30 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 famed coffee-carriers of Rio. They usually went in troops, number- 
 ing ten or twenty individuals, of whom one took the lead and was 
 called the captain. These were generally the largest and strongest 
 men that could be found. While at work they seldom wore any 
 other garment than a pair of short pantaloons; their shirt was 
 thrown aside for the time as an encumbrance. Each one took a 
 bag of coffee upon his head, weighing one hundred and sixty 
 pounds, and, when all were ready, they started off upon a measured 
 trot, which soon increased to a rapid run. Since 1860 carts are 
 used for coffee. 
 
 The negro porters of pianos and crockery frequently carry in 
 their hands musical instruments, resembling children's rattle- 
 boxes: these they shake to the double-quick time of some wild 
 Ethiopian ditty, which they all join in singing as they run. 
 Music has a powerful effect in exhilarating the spirits of the 
 negro; and certainly no one should deny him the privilege of 
 softening his hard lot by producing the harmony of sounds which 
 are sweet to him, though uncouth to other ears. It is said, how- 
 ever, that an attempt was at one time made to secure greater 
 quietness in the streets by forbidding them to sing. As a conse- 
 quence, they performed little or no work; so the restriction was 
 in a short time taken off. Certain it is that they now avail them- 
 selves of their vocal privileges at pleasure, whether in singing and 
 shouting to each other as they run, or in proclaiming to the people 
 the various articles they curry about for sale. The impression 
 made upon the stranger by the mingled sound of their hundred 
 voices falling upon his ear at once is not soon forgotten. 
 
 "We now turn from the busy throng of the Rua Direita, and in a 
 few minutes we ascend the steps of a stately building, over whose 
 portico we read, in huge green letters, — ALFANDEGA. 
 We will not stop to trace the origin of this word and many others 
 in the Portuguese tongue beginning with^Z, to their Moorish origin, 
 but will immediately inform the reader that it is the first word he 
 learns in Brazil, and one which, in various languages, most tra- 
 vellers in foreign countries have occasion to remember. This is 
 the Custom-IIouse. "We enter a vast hall of fine architecture, 
 lighted by a graceful dome. There are hundreds of desj)atchers, 
 merchants, and officers. But what a contrast to the noisy multi- 
 
The Custom-IIouse. 81 
 
 tude of the Rua Direita ! All are uncovered, and, as each enters 
 the hall, the hat is removed and not replaced until the portico is 
 again reached. What a capital discipline for Anglo-American 
 visitors and for English and North American shipmasters, whose 
 head-coverings seem to be a portion of their corporeal existence ! 
 I once heard Albert Smith, in one of his delightful conversaziones, 
 say that in foreign lands an Englisbman considers it a part of the 
 British constitution not to take off his hat except when "God save 
 the Queen" may accidentally fall upon his ear. The Brazilian is 
 very strict in the outward observance of politeness; and, as he 
 would never enter a private residence without removing his hat, 
 so he considers tbat he should not enter any of the edifices belong- 
 ing to the Government of his Emperor without showing the same 
 respect. 
 
 At the end of the hall, on an elevated platform, is the chief- 
 collector, who is constantly engaged in signing despatches and 
 various other custom-house papers, which are noiselessly handed 
 him by sub-officers and clerks. The inspector-in-chief, who presided 
 over the Alfandega of Rio in 1855, was Senhor S. Paio Yianna, 
 of Bahia, who, though strict and almost rigorous in the administra- 
 tion of his office, is a gentleman of great intelligence and amenity 
 of manner. He took a deep interest in the finances of the empire, 
 and his annual statement was clear and full of important information 
 to the commercial statistician. His predecessor was Sr. Ferraz, to 
 whom is greatly due the immense reforms that have taken place 
 in the custom-house of Rio de Janeiro. Formerly it was most 
 corruptly administered : bribery was the rule and not the excep- 
 tion. To this day some most wonderful stories are told of the 
 . year 1844, when the treaty between England and Bi'azil expired, 
 by limitation, in the month of November. Bales, bags, and boxes 
 went through the Custom-House with astonishing rapidity; and 
 there is a tradition that the entire cargo of a schooner entered the 
 rear of the Alfandega, and in a remarkably short time emerged 
 from the Portilo Grande, {Great Door.) But there is no longer 
 opportunity for such abuses ; and the largest custom-house of the 
 empire is as well conducted as those of Germany or France. 
 
 At the left of the chief-collector, in the rear of a row of sup- 
 porting columns, — is the guarda mor, — Sr. Leopoldo Augusto da 
 
32 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Camara Lima, who is known to every sliip-captain as Senhor 
 Leopoldo. This gentleman, who speaks the Enghsh language most 
 fluently, has been arrayed on the liberal side of Brazilian j)olitics 
 for the last twenty years, and was in the front rank of those who 
 condemn the African slave-trade, which was so completely abolished 
 in 1850. The office of the guarda mor in 1865 is nearer the water. 
 
 The vast warehouses of the Alfandega extend quite to the sea- 
 side.* Here conveniences are constructed for landing goods under 
 cover. Once out of boats or lighters, they are distributed and 
 Btored in respective departments, until a requisition is formally 
 made for their examination and despatch. The removal of the 
 various articles within the Custom-IIouse, as well as their 
 transjiortation to the great door of exit, is facilitated by means of 
 small iron railways extending to every portion of the many 
 buildings. 
 
 That troublesome delays should occasionally occur in the despatch 
 of goods and baggage is not surprising to any one acquainted with 
 the tedious formalities required by the laws; nor would it be 
 strange, if, among the host of empregados or sub-officers connected 
 with this establishment upon very limited pay, some are occasionally 
 found who will embarrass your business at every step until their 
 favor is conciliated by a direct or indirect appropriation of money 
 to their benefit; but this is more rare than formerly. 
 
 Most of the large commercial houses have a despatching-clerk, 
 whose especial business it is to attend upon the Alfandega; and 
 the stranger who is unaccustomed to the language and customs of 
 the country will always avoid much inconvenience by obtaining 
 the services of one of these persons. From my own experience in 
 passing books and baggage through the different custom-houses 
 of Brazil, I am prepared to say that a person who understands and 
 endeavors to conform to the laws of the country may expect in 
 similar circumstances to meet with kind treatment and all reason- 
 able accommodations. If, however, a glance at your watch tells 
 you, in the midst of your labors and difficulties, that three o'clock 
 
 * In the "View of Rio de Janeiro from the Island of Cobras," merely the 
 water-front of the Alfandega is seen extending above the entire width of the palm- 
 tree ill the foreground. 
 
Lessons in Portuguese. 33 
 
 is near at hand, and you undertake to urge the sub-collector to ex- 
 pedite matters, you are sure to receive in rejil}^, '^Faciencia,senhor." 
 This is our second lesson in Portuguese; and the third soon follows 
 in response to our demand, "When can these things bo de- 
 spatched?" ^'Amanha" (to-morrow,) is promptly given. But should 
 you succeed in getting through the portao grande about the time 
 that huge door is being closed up for the day, you will witness a 
 lively scene. Boxes, bales, and packages of every species of goods, 
 cases of furniture, pipes of wine, and coils of rope, lie heaped 
 together in a confusion only equalled by the crowd of clerks, 
 feitors, and negroes, who block up the whole Eua Direita in their 
 rush to obtain possession of their several portions, and in their 
 vociferations to hasten the removal of their merchandise. 
 
 We ai'e perhaps wishing to expedite the tall Mina blacks whom 
 we have engaged to transport our luggage to its place of desti- 
 nation. By signs manual our meaning is comprehended, but we 
 receive a very cool ^^Espera um pouco, senhor," (Wait a little, sir,) 
 which completes our studies in Portuguese for the day. And what 
 a lesson we have received ! 
 
 Pacienciay amanha, and espera um pouco! These words in action 
 stare the nervous, impatient, tearing, fretting Anglo-American, 
 everywhere throughout Brazil. The Hon. Ex-Governor Kent, 
 whose name is associated with the Northeastern boundary and 
 with the politics of New England, was for four years a resident of 
 Rio de Janeiro as U.S. Consul, and for a portion of the time as 
 acting Charge d' Affaires. It was his deliberate opinion that Brazil 
 was the best place in existence to cool a fervid, speech-making, 
 community-exciting Yankee. I have laughed heartily at his dry 
 humorous manner, as he has unfolded con arnore this subject: — 
 
 " There is to a quietly-disposed, mild man, past the meridian of 
 life, who has seen many of the rough sides of humanity, something 
 agreeable and pleasant in the tranquil, calm, noiseless habits of the 
 Brazilians. To live a whole year and never attend a caucus or an 
 indignation-meeting, to hear nothing about elections, to see no 
 gatherings of the people, to read no placards calling upon the sove- 
 reigns to rise and vindicate their rights, to listen to no stump- 
 speeches or dinner-orations, never once to be importuned to walk or 
 ride in ;i political procession, to see not one torchlight-pageant in 
 
34 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 honor of a victory which has saved the country and the offices, — m 
 short, to live without politics, — is, to one who is inclined to quiet, 
 or who has been wearied out in the service, soothing and delightful." 
 
 Though the nation, by steamships and railroads and general 
 prosperity, is daily becoming more active, yet it may be still pre- 
 dicated that the Brazilian is not accustomed to be startled and 
 shocked by other people's miseries and w^oes. With a free and 
 well-supported press, his nature demands no thrilling evening 
 editions, filled with long and minute accounts of the last steamboat 
 disaster, fearful accidents, or horrible murders. As a general thing, 
 he thinks the moral, physical, and political worlds will turn on 
 their own axes without his interference. Hence it was, doubtless, 
 that some of the far-seeing and really wide-awake statesmen of 
 flio j)roposed a fine of five dollars to be imposed upon each citizen 
 who did not come up to the polls of the municipal election and de- 
 posit his vote. 
 
 Almost every one who arrives at Rio is expecting letters that 
 have anticipated him by the English steamer, and, as soon as his 
 trunks are relieved from the Custom-House, he makes his way to 
 the Correio Geral, or General Post-Office, in the Eua Direita. You 
 pass by a large vestibule, with a stone floor, occupied by several 
 soldiers, either on guard or sleeping on benches at the extremities 
 of the room, and upon inquiry you ascertain that the Postmaster 
 General and the larger portion of his employees are in- the rooms 
 above. We enter the front-door of the large apartment adjoining 
 this vestibule. On the right, behind a high counter, are the letters 
 and newspapers of the Post-Office, distributed, not in boxes, accord- 
 ing to alphabetical order, but in heaps, according to the places 
 from whence they have come; as, for instance, from the Mines, 
 from St. Paul's, and other important points. Corresponding to 
 this, on the sides of the room, are hung numerical lists of names, 
 an-angcd under the head of Cartas de Minas, de S. Paulo, kc. The 
 letters, with the exception of those belonging to certain mercantile 
 houses, and to those who pay an annual subscription to have their 
 correspondence sent them, are thrown together promiscuously, and 
 he who comes first has the pi-ivilege of looking over the M-hole 
 mass and selecting such as belong to himself or his friends. This 
 method has been somewhat modified since the establishment of 
 
The Post-Office. 35 
 
 Bteam-lines to Europe. On the day that the steamer arrives an 
 immense crowd gathers at the Post-Office; hut the letters, instead 
 of being investigated b}' all npon the counter, are carefully kept 
 in the back-part of the hall, where four persons at a time arc ad- 
 mitted. There is just cause of complaint in regard to the delivery 
 of the foreign steamers' (except the English) mails. The English 
 have their own mail-agent. The whole system is needlessly 
 clumsy and inconvenient for a city of three hundred thousand in- 
 habitants. I was informed at Eio that some years since Mr. Gor- 
 don, of Boston, who was then U.S. Consul, offered to the Brazilian 
 Government to put their chief Post-Office on the same footing of 
 efficiency that existed in the United States. Mr. Gordon was ad- 
 mirably qualified for this, having been for a number of years the 
 postmaster of the largest distributing and seaport office in New 
 England. His oifer was not accepted; for the Brazilians, though 
 more progressive than most South American people, still inherit 
 many characteristics from their Portuguese ancestors, and a pro- 
 minent one is dislike of change. The little progress that the 
 mother-country has made during the last few centuries is admirably 
 illustrated in the following well-known story: — Once upon a time 
 Adam requested leave to revisit this world : permission Avas 
 granted, and an angel commissioned to conduct him. On wings 
 of love the patriarch hastened to his native earth; but so changed, 
 so strange, all seemed to him, that he nowhere felt at home till he 
 came to Portugal. " Ah, now," exclaimed he, " set me down; every- 
 thing here is just as I left it." 
 
 The larger mails, departing coastwise, are very frequent, regular, 
 and swift. This may also be said of the mail to Petropolis by 
 steamboat, railway, and the turnpike of the Union Industry' Com- 
 panj^. Otherwise, inland transportation of letters is verj- sIoav. But 
 when the D. Pedro II. Eailway and similar constructions reach 
 far into the interior, there will be of course corresponding im- 
 provement in this respect. The inland mails to the distant 
 provinces depart once in five days, and return at corresponding 
 intervals. Their transmission through the country is slow and 
 tedious, being performed on horseback or by foot-carriers, at an 
 average, throughout the empire, of twenty miles in twenty-four 
 hours. Charges for postage are moderate, and a traveller to any 
 
86 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 portion of the country is permitted to carry as many epistles as 
 his friends M'ill intrust to him, provided they have the Government 
 stamp affixed to them. 
 
 There is, however, one exception to the general cheapness of 
 postage. It sometimes happens that books or packages which 
 ought to have passed through the Custora-House find their way to 
 the Post-Office, and then the expense is extravagant. There is a 
 crying evil which ought to be remedied: I refer to the charge by 
 the post-office clerks on letters which have already been prepaid. 
 ll; amounts to downright robbery. If the officials are not paid 
 a sufficient salary, let the Parliament reform the thing, so that 
 official extortion may no longer continue. 
 
 In 3^ears gone by, we next sought the large commercial trapiche 
 (warehouse) of Messrs. Maxwell, Wright & Co. This establishment 
 was long well known as the leading commission-house of Rio de 
 Janeiro. It was built up under the supervision of the vigilant and 
 prompt Mr. Joseph Maxwell, of. Gibraltar, and. various members 
 of his family, in connection with the Messrs. Wright of Baltimore. 
 Few Americans and Englishmen have gone to Eio without receiving 
 attentions from some one of the principals or employees of this 
 house. At the abundantly-spread table in the dining-room of the 
 trapiche, many have made their first acquaintance with Brazilian 
 dishes and with the refreshing fruits of the tropics. 
 
 In September, 1854, Sr. Jose Maxwell, the senior partner of this 
 important firm, died ; and probably the funeral of no other private 
 citizen in the capital or the empire was ever attended by such a 
 throng as that which followed to the grave the remains of this kind 
 father and respected citizen. This firm no longer exists. 
 
 We pass, by the Eua do Eosario, again into the Eua Direita, and 
 continue our promenade up the Eua do Ouvidor, which is the com- 
 bined Eue Yivienne, Eegent Street, and Broadway of Eio. It is 
 not, however, either long or broad, but the shops upon it ai-e bril- 
 liant and in good taste. There is no part of the city so attractive 
 to the recently-landed foreigner as this street, with its print-shops, 
 feather-flower stores, and jewellery-establishments. The diamond, 
 the topaz and emerald can here be purchased in any number, and 
 are temptingly displayed behind rich plate-glass. The feather and 
 in«ect-flowers manufactured in Brazil ai-e original and most beauti- 
 
Feather-Flowers. 37 
 
 tul. The early Portuguese found that the Indians adorned them- 
 selves with the rich plumage of the unsurpassingly brilliant birds 
 of the forest. In the Amazonian regions the aborigines have not 
 lost either the taste or the skill of their ancestors, and, like the 
 cultivators of roses, they are not content with the gorgeous colors 
 which nature has painted, but by artificial means produce new 
 varieties. Thus, on the Rio Negro, the Uaupe Indians have a head- 
 dress which is in the highest estimation, and they will only part 
 with it under the pressure of the greatest necessity. This orna- 
 ment consists of a coronet of red and yellow feathers disposed in 
 regular i-ows and firmly attached to a strong plaited band. The 
 feathers are entirely from the shoulders of the great red macaw; 
 but they are not those that the bird naturally possesses, for the 
 Indians have a curious art by which they change the colors of the 
 plumage of many birds. They pluck out a certain number of 
 feathers, and in the various vacancies thus occasioned infuse the 
 milky secretion made from the skin of a small frog. When the 
 feathers grow again they are of a brilliant yellow or orange color, 
 without any mixture of green or blue as in the natural state of the 
 bird; and it is said that the much-coveted yellow feather will 
 ever after be rejDroduced without a new infusion of the milky 
 secretion. 
 
 In the National Museum on the Campo St. Anna, many of the 
 curious head-dresses and feather-robes of the aboriginal tribes 
 attract the attention of the visitor. 
 
 There are few curiosities more esteemed in Europe and the 
 United States than the feather-flowers of Rio de Janeiro and Bahia. 
 They are made from the natural plumage, though from time to 
 time the novice has palmed off" upon him a bouquet, the leaves of 
 which, instead of being fi'om the parrot, have been stolen from the 
 back of the white ibis and then dyed. This deception can, how- 
 ever, be detected by observing the stem of the feather to be colored 
 green, which never is the case in nature. No one travelling in the 
 English steamers should postpone his purchases of these beautiful 
 souvenirs of bright birds and Brazil until he arrives at St. Vincent, 
 for the numerous pedlars of that island offer an inferior article 
 made from artificially-colored feathers. Rio de Janeiro is the best 
 mart for this kind of merchandise. No oi-nament can surpass the 
 
38 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 splendor of the flowers made from the breasts and throats of 
 hunnning-birds. A hidy whose bonnet or hair is adorned with 
 such plumage seems to be surrounded with flashes of the most 
 gorgeous and ever-varying brilliancy. The carnations and other 
 flowers made from a happy combination of the feathers of the 
 scarlet ibis and the rose-colored spoonbill are also ver}' natural, and 
 are highly prized. Bourget, 115 Ouvidor, is the best naturalist. 
 
 In these shops we may also find fish-scale floAvers, and those 
 manufactured from the wings of insects, and breast-pins which are 
 made by setting a small brilliant beetle in gold. 
 
 From the Kua do Ouvidor we turn into the Eua dos Ourives, 
 (Goldsmiths' Street,) where are scores of shops filled with large 
 quantities of silver android ornaments, from a spur to a crucifix. 
 
 We now wend our way through the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula 
 to the Largo do Eocio, (or Statue Square, as it is termed by the 
 English,) where we take an omnibus for Botafogo. The Brazilian 
 omnibus is very much like its prototype in all parts of the world, 
 with this single and very important exception : — it is not elastic. 
 A New York or Philadelphia omnibus is provei'bially "never full;" 
 but the same kind of vehicle in Eio can be filled, and, when once 
 complete, the conductor closes the door, cries " Vainos ^mbora," (Let 
 us be off",) the driver flourishes his long thong and sets his four- 
 mule team into a gallop. Away we go, rattling across gutters as 
 if there were none, and rushing through narrow streets as if negro 
 water-carriers had no existence. It is curious to behold the heavy- 
 laden slaves clearing the street and dodging into open shop-doors 
 as an omnibus appears in sight. Few accidents occur; and, when 
 they do, prompt reparation is made. On one occasion I was in a 
 "gondola" in the narrow Eua S. Jose. Our four long-eared beasts 
 were plunging on at a fearful rate, and, being much more un- 
 manageable than horses, could not be pulled up until the fore-wheel 
 crunched upon the legs of a poor old mullatress. She was severely 
 but not fatally injured, and was instantly cared for. The gondola- 
 driver, however, I never saw again holding the reins. The House 
 of Correction, or one of the many prisons, was, without doiibt, his 
 abode for the next few months. 
 
 The streets, with their diminutive sidewalks, are so narrow that 
 in many of them only one vehicle can pass at a time. I was more 
 
I^ ARROW Streets and Police-Reg ulatioxs. 
 
 39 
 
 than once remiuded of Pompeii and Ilerculaneiim, not only in some 
 of the commonest utensils and mechanic implements, in the open 
 shop-windows, and in the house of the Brazilian, who demands a 
 fine parlor, (the atrium,) and yet will sleep in a windowless alcove 
 like a dungeon's cell ; but in nothing was the resemblance more 
 striking than in the narrow ruas, which, doubtless, had their 
 origin in the desire to procui*e shade. Mr. George S. Ilillard, in 
 his thought-begetting "Six Months in Ital}^," says of the narrow 
 thoroughfares of Pompeii, "As each vehicle must have occupied 
 the space between the curbstones, w^c are left wnthout any means 
 of conjecturing what expedients were resorted to, or what police- 
 regulations were in force, when two carriages, moving in different 
 directions, met each other." If this accomplished author had 
 visited Eio de Janeiro previous to his excursion to the buried cities 
 of Magna Grecia, the mystery would have been solved. In the 
 narrow Euas Ouvidor, Posario, Hospicio, Alfandega, S. Jose, and 
 others, carriages and omnibuses never meet; and so admirable are 
 the police-regulations that no mistakes ever occur. At the corner 
 of each of these streets where it is crossed by another, we see 
 painted, with great distinctness, an index immediately under the 
 name of the street. Thus, two of the streets mentioned above are 
 adjacent to and parallel w^ith each other, and are crossed by the 
 Puas Direita and Quitanda. Upon their Eua Direita corners wo 
 behold the following : — 
 
 ISTow, if I am in a carriage at the point where the Euas Direita and 
 Eosario cross each other, and I wnsh to visit a shop at the corner 
 of the latter street and the Eua Quitanda, although it is more direct 
 for me to ascend by the Eua do Eosario, yet my Jehu knows that 
 
40 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 if he should go contrary to the index he would be subjected to a 
 heavy fine and forfeitui'e of certain privileges as a coachman. He 
 therefore whirls through the Direita, up the Eua do Ouvidor, and 
 along the Quitanda, travelling the three sides of the square, and 
 thus avoiding; all colUsion. 
 
 J 
 
 Rua da Quitanda. 
 
 Kua Direita. 
 
 J 
 
 r 
 
 In the city of New York there has been for many years every 
 imaginable proposition for the relief of Broadway, and there is 
 scarcely a citizen" or visitor in that vast emporium who has not on 
 more than one occasion been subjected to great inconvenience by 
 the regular "blockade" instituted every day in the lower part 
 of that immense thoroughfare, the whole of which might have been 
 avoided by the simple application of the Brazilian plan, and thus 
 making the innumerable omnibuses, drays, carts, and cai'riages 
 descend Broadway, and those vehicles that are uptown ward ascend 
 Greenwich Street. 
 
 But onward rushes our omnibus at a rapid pace. We whirl by 
 the Carioca Fountain, and, before we can give a second look at the 
 green sides of the Antonio Hill, we are bowling along under the 
 garden-walls of the lofty Ajuda Convent. All seems dismal, 
 with the exception of the foliage that appears above the high 
 enclosure. A turn brings us into the Largo da Ajuda, and at once 
 we have the wonderful view — to Northern qjq% at least — of the 
 Passeio Publico, (Public Promenade,') and before us the verdant 
 slopes of the Santa Theresa Hill. From beneath the tropic-trees 
 
The Passeio Publico. 
 
 41 
 
 which cover the latter, neat white cottages are peeping, and, for 
 a residence, no elevation within the city is preferable to Santa 
 Theresa. The Passeio Publico, which we are passing, was a 
 favorite resort of mine at Rio: and at all times — whether at nifrht 
 when it is brilliantly illuminated, or in the brightest hour of the 
 day — it is one of the pleasantest promenades within the precincts 
 of the municipality. Hero are overhanging trees, blooming para- 
 
 AQUEDUCT, LARGO DA LAPA, AND PASSEIO PUBLICO, FROM THE SANTA THERESA. 
 
 sites, rare plants, shady walks, and cool fountains. On the side 
 which fronts the bay is a large terrace, from which is a magnifi- 
 cent prospect of the Gloria Hill, the distant Sugar-Loaf, and, far 
 beyond, the rolling ocean. 
 
 Having passed this public garden, we are in the square called 
 Largo da Lapa. The palatial building on our right was purchased 
 a few years ago for the National Library, and was formerly one 
 of the most splendid private mansions in Rio. 
 
 Over a superbly-paved street our omnibus is hurrying ; but from 
 
42 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 time to time an open gate or a tall Cape of Good Hope pine-tree 
 tells us that gardens are in the rear of forbidding looking walls. 
 We dash along what is called the "Coast of Africa," — a long row 
 of low houses on our right; while on our left the bay is beneath 
 us, and therefore, the street being unshaded, the appi'opriateness of 
 the hot cognomen. That large three-story building, formerly the 
 English Embassy, was a foundling hospital. The Chafariz of St. 
 Theresa is built up against a portion of the rock of the jutting 
 hill whence it derives its name. After ^^assing the gardens of the 
 late Bariio de Mcriti and the Gloria Hill, our passengers begin 
 to descend at the various streets which cross the Catete, which is 
 the widest thoroughfare in this portion of the capital. Each per- 
 son, as he rises to depart, lifts his hat, and the compliment is 
 returned by every individual in the omnibus, though all may be 
 entire strangers. No one ever enters a large public conveyance in 
 Rio without saluting those within and receiving in return a polite 
 acknowledgment of his presence. Yery frequently a pinch of snuff 
 is offered to you by your unknown neighbor. I have seen gentle- 
 men but recently returned from Brazil enter a New York omnibus 
 and deferentially salute the inmates : the polite strangers were 
 received with a smile of derision or looked upon with a stare 
 of contempt. 
 
 Each omnibus has painted in -large characters upon its sides its 
 capacity: thus, "14 pessoas" means that the vehicle is registered 
 at the Bureau de Police to contain that number of persons, and 
 one passenger more than the registered number would subject the 
 company to a heavy fine. I have never seen more passengers 
 within than the figures on the side indicated. 
 
 I have more than once mentioned the "gondola," — that name 
 associated with love-romance and Venice, "moonrise, high mid- 
 night, and the voice of song." When I fii'st heard that melli- 
 fluous term in Brazil, I fancied that the sharp and graceful little 
 barges of the Queen of the Adriatic had been transported to the 
 bright waters of Rio de Janeiro; but I soon discovered my mis- 
 take, and ascertained that this sweet Italian word was used to 
 designate most unpoetic four-wheeled vehicles, drawn by as many 
 kicking, stubborn mules ! The gondola in every respect resembles 
 the omnibus, save that no conductor accompanies it. You prepay 
 
The Gondola. 43 
 
 Senhor Bernardo or a Senhor som.cbody else at the Largo do Pago ; 
 and if there ai*o any way-fares, these are received by the driver. 
 The o-ondola does not have the convenience which the New York 
 onniibiis possesses, in the shape of the leather strap by which the 
 passenger causes the driver to pull up at the will of the former. 
 In lieu of this, passengers make a very free use of canes, umbrellas, 
 and lists, battering at a terrible rate the end of the gondola nearest 
 the driver; or occasionally the leg of the latter is rather more 
 warmly than affectionately embraced by the individual sitting next to 
 the farther window. Sometimes the gondola cannot be "pi-opelled" 
 by its living oars; and, under such circumstances, when a Scotch- 
 man, a Yankee, or a Frenchman will relieve himself of many hard 
 woi'ds at the unfortunate Jehu, the Brazilians z'cmain perfectly 
 calm, not once descending to see what is the matter, and con 
 versing with one another as philosophically as if nothing had hap- 
 pened. On one occasion I was witness to a scene which will scarce!}'' 
 be credited. As a gondola full of passengers was turning out 
 of the Rua dos Ourives, it unfortunately " stuck." The driver 
 shouted at his mules, thrashed them with his long raw-hide thong, 
 tcheiced* at them, and stamped his footboard, all to no purpose : 
 the animals could not start the vehicle. Not one passenger got 
 out, but all looked from the windows as if this was a part of the 
 programme for which they had paid their dous testoes, (five English 
 pence,) and they determined to have their money's worth. The 
 poor driver was in deep distress : quite a crowd collected, but no 
 one offered to aid him, until he, by sundry vintems, allured the sez'- 
 vices of several Africans, whose broad shoulders applied to the 
 wdieels, in conjunction with the pulling of the mules, moved gon- 
 dola, passengers, and all. 
 
 Having something of a philological turn, I inquired why these 
 public conveyances were called gondolas. I was not long in ascer- 
 taining that a monopoly had been gi-anted to certain omnibus com- 
 panies, which was considered onerous, but the municipal govern- 
 ment could not in conscience abolish the contract or confer a new 
 
 * A sound unrepresentable by letters, similar to that made in the United States 
 in scaring chickens, by which all classes, high and low, in Brazil, call the atten- 
 tion of others. 18G6, all the gondolas have conductors. 
 
44 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 charter upon another omnibus association; however, all scruples 
 were finally overcome by granting privileges to a gondola company 
 to carry passengers ! 
 
 We will end our ride at the Ponta do Catete, and will thence 
 make our way to the Hotel dos Estrangciros, at the commencement 
 of the Caminho Velho de Botafogo ; or we may walk a few steps 
 farther, and enter Johnson's Hotel, on the Caminho Novo. The 
 Hotel dos Estrangciros is a large house kept on the French plan ; 
 the Hotel Johnson is where Englishmen " most do congregate," 
 and where one can find more comfort than at any other establish- 
 ment for the accommodation of the public in the city. Both are 
 surrounded by verdure, whether we consider the neighboring gar- 
 dens, or the adjacent hills, whose sides are covered with luxuriantly- 
 foliaged trees and clambering vines. Johnson's Hotel no longer exists. 
 
 The stranger at Eio de Janeiro is usually surprised at the 
 scarcity of inns and boarding-houses. There are several French 
 and Italian hotels, with apartments to let; and these ai'c chiefly 
 supported by the numerous foreigners constantly arriving and 
 temporarily residing in the place. But among the native po^nila- 
 tion, and intended for Brazilian patronage, there are only eight or 
 ten inns in a city of three hundi-ed thousand inhabitants, and 
 scai'cely any of these exceed the dimensions of a private house. 
 It is almost inconceivable how the numerous visitors to this great 
 emporium find necessary accommodations. It may safely be pre- 
 sumed that they could not, without a heavy draught upon the 
 hospitalities of the inhabitants, with whom, in many instances, 
 a letter of introduction secures a home. In the lack of such a 
 resort, the sojourner rents a room, and, by the aid of his servant 
 and a few articles of furnitui*e, soon manages to live, with more or 
 less frequent resorts to some caza de pasto or restaurant. Most 
 of the members of the National Assembly keep up domestic esta- 
 blishments during their sojourn in the capital. As a consequence 
 of this lack of hotels and boarding-houses, some of the commercial 
 firms maintain a table for the convenience of their clerks and 
 guests. This was once much more common ; but, since 1850, pro- 
 bably the greater portion of those formerly thus accommodated 
 club together, rent a house in Botafogo, Praia Grande, or on the 
 Santa Theresa, and keep up an establishment of their own. 
 
First ISTigiit in the Tropics. 46 
 
 Having thus been cicerone of the reader in his rapid whir? 
 through this cit}' of the tropics, I know of no fitter termination 
 to the day than for him to imagine himself in one of the vast 
 rooms of the Hotel dos Estrangeiros. 
 
 For many days, in a narrow berth, you have been rudely rocked 
 by the billows, and this is the first night on terra firma and a com- 
 fortable bed. The windows of your apartment are wide open, and, 
 as you close your eyes, the land-breeze, murmuring softly, bears 
 upon its wings not only the sweet, fresh smell of the earth, but, 
 stealing in its course from the adjacent gardens the fragrance of 
 jessamines, the delicate scent of the flora-pondia, and the odor of 
 the opening orange-blooms, it loads the evening air with the 
 richest aroma. The distant booming of the waves, as they break 
 upon the Praia do Flamengo, is a soothing melody, which lulls 
 you to dreams of scenes not more lovely than those around you, 
 where are 
 
 " Larger constellations burning, mellow moons and happy skies, 
 Breadths of tropic shade, and palms in cluster, knots of paradise," — 
 
 a land w^here 
 
 " Slides the bird o'er lustrous woodland, swings the trailer from the crag, 
 Droops the heavy-blossom'd bower, hangs the heavy-fruited tree, — 
 Summer-isles of Eden lying in dark purple spheres of sea." 
 
 Note for 1866. — The engravings on pages 28 and 29, though graphically re- 
 presenting the state of things in 1855, are no longer apropos. They are kept as 
 a matter of history. The Government has forbidden such exhausting and cruel 
 labor of the slaves. Carts now carry the coffee. But the municipality of Rio 
 should go one step further, and charge three times the amount for license on every 
 cart which does not have springs. To say nothing of the immense weight of the 
 vehicle now in use, whose parallel can only be found in Portugal, it acts like a 
 sledge-hammer to constantly batter the pavement to pieces. A cart with springs 
 could be made just as strong with half the weight, and one mule could propel as 
 much as two with the present brutal street-destroying machine. We are glad to 
 see already a few New York spring-carts at Rio. Have more, and the Flumi- 
 nenses will pay less for their pavement taxes. 
 
CHAPTEE 111. 
 
 DISCOVERY OF SOUTH AMERICA — PINZON'S VISIT TO BRAZIL — CABRAL^COELHO 
 
 AMERICUS VESPUCIUS THE NAME " BRAZIL" BAY OF BIO DE JANEIRO 
 
 MARTIN AFFONSO DE SOUZA PAST GLORY OF PORTUGAL COLIGNy's HUGUENOT 
 
 COLONY — THE PROTESTANT BANNER FIRST UNFURLED IN THE NEW WORLD 
 
 TREACHERY OF VILLEGAGNON CONTEST BETWEEN THE PORTUGUESE AND THE 
 
 FRENCH DEFEAT OF THE LATTER SAN SEBASTIAN FOUNDED — CRUEL INTOLE- 
 RANCE REFLECTIONS. 
 
 Although the bay and city of Eio de Janeiro are fraught with 
 interesting associations to the general student of history, and still 
 more to the Protestant Christian as that portion of the New World 
 where the banner of the Eeformed religion was first unfurled, yet 
 I have thought it best to introduce here a brief account of the 
 early discovery and settlement of Brazil. 
 
 Guanihani — that outpost of the New Woi'ld — was beheld by 
 
 European ej'es six j'ears before the .discovery of South America. 
 
 In 1498, Columbus landed near the mouth of the Orinoco. Ho 
 
 recorded, in enthusiastic language, " the beauty of the new land," 
 
 and declared that he felt as if "he could never leave so charming 
 
 a spot." The honor, however, of discovering the "Western heini- 
 
 sphere south of the equator must be awarded to Vincent Yanez 
 
 Pinzon, Avho was a companion of Columbus, and had commanded 
 
 the ''Niua" in that first glorious voj'^age which made known to the 
 
 Old World the existence of tlio New. Pinzon sailed from Palos in 
 
 December, 1499, and, crossing the equator, his eyes were Had- 
 
 dened, on the 26th of Januarj^, 1500, by a green promontory, 
 
 which he called Cape Consolation. This is now known as Cape 
 
 St. Augustine, the headland just south of the city of Pernambuco. 
 
 He sailed tlience northward, discovering the vast mouths of the 
 
 Amazon, and touched at various points until he reached the 
 
 Orinoco. 
 
 AVhen Pinzon beheld the palm-groves and densely-foliaged 
 46 
 
Discoveries of Pinzon and Cabral. 47 
 
 forests, and had scented the spic^'' breezes Avhich were wafted from 
 the shore, he supposed that he was visiting India-be3'ond-tho- 
 Ganges, and believed that he had already sailed past the renowned 
 Cathay. In the name of Castile he took possession of the goodly 
 land ; but, before he reached Spain, Pedro Alvares Cabral, a distin- 
 guished Portuguese navigator, had claimed the territory for his 
 own monarch. On the return of Vasco da Gama to Portugal, in 
 1499, with the certainty of having discovered the route to the 
 Indies by the Cape of Good Hope, the king Pom Emanuel 
 determined to send a large fleet to those famous regions, with 
 instructions to enter into commercial relations with the Eastern 
 sovereigns, or, in case of refusal, to make war upon them and sub- 
 due them. The command of this expedition was intrusted to 
 Cabral, and, on the 9th of March, the large fleet, with its fifteen 
 hundred soldiers and mariners, sailed amid grand militarj^ and 
 religious ceremonials, the king himself honoring the occasion by 
 his august presence. With this handful of men, intended for the 
 coercion of the Orient to the commercial notions of Portugal, 
 Cabral directed his course to the Cape de Yerdes, and thence, in 
 order to avoid the calms which prevail on the African coast, he ran 
 so fiir to the westward, that, without any intention on his part, he 
 discovered, on the 21st of April, 1500, the same land which, ninety 
 days previously, had been visited by Pinzon. Cabral's discovery 
 was, however, in the present pi'ovince of Espirito Santo, neai 
 Mount Pascal, which is eight degrees south of Cape St. Augustine. 
 Some Brazilian writers grudgingly mention the voyage of Pin- 
 zon; others ignore him altogether, wishing seemingly to ascribe 
 all the glory to one of their own Portuguese ancestors. Doubtless 
 Cabral was led by the trade-winds and by the currents — of which 
 he w^as not aware — to the coast of Brazil, and thus made his tbr- 
 tunate discovery. To-day, vessels sailing from Europe for the East 
 Indies can (as is well demonstrated by Lieutenant Maury's wind 
 and current charts) make the swiftest voyages by taking advan- 
 tage of the wonderful trade-winds, steering first toward South 
 Amei'ica and afterward in the direction of the Cape of Good Hope. 
 Pinzon set forth from Palos with the intention of making Western 
 discoveries; Cabral sailed from Lisbon with instructions to pro- 
 ceed to the Eastern discoveries of Vasco da Gama ; but, because a 
 
48 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 happy accident (some say a fierce storm) forced his fleet to Brazil, 
 and that, too, months after the landing of the Spanish navigator 
 at Cape St. Augustine, there is neither reason nor justice in the 
 national pride -which endeavors to take away the priority of dis- 
 covery from Vincent Yanez Pinzon. 
 
 On Easter Sunday mass was celebrated; and on the 1st of May 
 this solemnity was repeated, and, in the presence of thousands 
 of the aborigines, a huge cross was erected, bearing the insignia 
 of Dom Emanuel, and the land, to which they gave the name of 
 Vera Cruz, was solemnly taken possession of in the name of the 
 King of Portugal.* 
 
 It was the Padre Frei Henrique, of Coimbra, who conducted the 
 religious ceremonies, and in which he was piously joined (so reads 
 the chronicle) by os indigenos imitando os gestos e movimentos dos 
 Portugezes, (the savages imitating the gestures and movements of 
 the Portuguese.) 
 
 Two convicts were left with the natives, and one of these after- 
 ward became of great use as an interpreter. Cabral despatched 
 Gaspar de Lemos to Lisbon, to inform the monarch of the dis- 
 covery and appropriation of the new land of the 'True Cross, and 
 then pursued his route to the East Indies. The Pope of Pome 
 laid down a rule regulating the proprietorship of countries dis- 
 covered by Spain and Portugal, and thus was disposed the question 
 between Pinzon and Cabral. 
 
 The king Dom Emanuel was deeply interested in the intelli- 
 gence brought him by Gaspar de Lemos, and, in May, 1501, sent 
 out to his new dominions three caravellas under the command 
 of Gon^alo Coelho.f In one of these vessels was Americus Ves- 
 pucius. This expedition partook more of the character of failure 
 than of success, and was replaced, in 1503, by a second, which, 
 consisting of double the number of ships employed in the first, 
 sailed, according to some authorities, under Christopher Jacques ;f 
 according to others, under the same Gongalo Coelho,J accompanied 
 
 * Historia do Brazil, by Gen. J. I. de Abreu Lima. Rio de Janeiro, 1843. 
 I Ibid. vol. i. chap. ii. 
 
 \ Epitome da Hist, do Brazil, (by Jose Pedro Xavier Pinheiro. Bahia, 1854,) 
 chap. i. p. 27. 
 
The Name "Brazil." 49 
 
 again by Americu8. Four of these vessels were lost, with the 
 commander-in-chief; but the lucky Florentine escaped, and lived 
 to deprive, indirectly, the new territory of the name conferred 
 upon it by Cabral/" 
 
 The two remaining ships entered a bay, now supposed to be the 
 spacious Bahla cle Todos os Santos, and afterward coasted south- 
 ward two hundred and sixteen leagues, and there remained five 
 months anchored near the land, and maintained amicable relations 
 with the natives. Here they erected a fortress, and left in it 
 twentj'-four men. 
 
 As the most valuable part of the cargo which Americus Ves- 
 pucius carried back to Europe was the well-known dyewood, Ccesal- 
 pinia Braziliensis, — called, in the Portuguese language, pau brazil, 
 on account of its resemblance to brazas, "coals of fii^e," — the land 
 whence it came was termed the " land of the brazil-wood ;" and, 
 finally, this appellation was shortened to Brazil, and completely 
 usurped the names Vera Cruz or Santa CruzS^^ This change was 
 not effected without protestations on the part of some, — not because 
 their taste for euphony was shocked, but on the ground that the 
 cause of religion required a sacred title to the fairest possession 
 of faithful Lusitania in the ISTew World. One of the reverendis- 
 simos declared that it was through the expi*ess interposition of the 
 devil that such a choice and lovely land should be called Brazil 
 instead of the pious cognomen given to it by Cabral. Another — 
 a devoted Jesuit — poured forth a jeremiad on the subject, con- 
 cluding, with emphasis, by stating what a shame it was that "the 
 cuiDidity of man, by unworthy traffic, should change the wood 
 of the cross, red with the real blood of Christ, for that of another 
 wood which resembled it only in color" ! 
 
 Other voyages were undertaken at the order of Spain and of 
 Portugal, — thus making known the whole coast of Eastern South 
 America from the Amazon to the Straits of Majellan. Among the 
 navigators at the head of these expeditions were De Soils and Ma- 
 jellan, (Magalhiies.) In 1515, De Soils sailed on his Southern voyage, 
 and discovered the Eio de la Plata, which at first bore his own name. 
 On his way thither, he entered the bay now known as Eio de Janeiro. 
 Fernando de Majellan, a Portuguese in the service of Charles I. of 
 Spain, sailed, in 1519, to discover the western passage to the Indies. 
 
50 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 On the 13th of Deccmbei' he entered the bay previously visited by 
 Do SoHs, and remained there until the 27th of the same month, and 
 gave to it the name of Bahia (bay) de Santa Luzia, — the day of his 
 entrance being the anniversary of that saint. He afterward coasted 
 along the continent until he entered those sti'aits which still bear 
 his name, and which were for a century the only known highway 
 to the Pacific. Majellan was the first to circumnavigate the globe. 
 The usual account of the origin of the term Rio de Janeiro, so 
 inappropriately given to a bay, has already been referred to. The 
 facts seem to be adverse to the generally-accepted explanation that 
 Martin AfFonso de Souza discovered this sheet of water — which he 
 supposed to be a river — on the 1st of Januarj^, 1531. It is incon- 
 testable that it was entered twice at least several years previous to 
 his departure from Portugal. JVIartin Affonso de Souza was a 
 Portuguese gentleman of noble lineage, and of high estimation in 
 the court of Dom John HI. The king, having received information 
 of the visits of Spaniards to the coasts which he considered his 
 own, determined to send an expedition, commanded by De Souza, 
 to Brazil. De Souza had plenary powers on land and on sea, and 
 was to fortify and distribute the new territory. He was the first 
 donatory of Portugal in Brazil, and sailed from Lisbon on the 3d 
 of December, 1530. In a few weeks he sighted Cape St. Augustine, 
 near which he encountered three French vessels. He .gave them 
 battle, came off victorious, and took them in triumph to the pre- 
 sent harbor of Pernambuco. Afier refitting, he came to Bahia de 
 Todos OS Santos, where was the little settlement of the shipwrecked 
 Diogo Alvares Correa, (Caramuru,) whose romantic history is nar- 
 rated in another portion of this work. After some delay, he again 
 sailed southward, and, on the 30th of April, 1531, entered the bay 
 which had ah'eady been named Santa Luzia and Eio de Janeiro. 
 By reflecting for a moment upon the time (December 3, 1530) when 
 Martin Alfonso de Souza departed from Lisbon, and the various 
 events and delays of the voyage, we can easily perceive that it 
 would be an impossibility to sail more than five thousand miles, 
 (and his were not modern clipjDor-ships,) fight and ca])ture three 
 vessels, refresh successively at two difi:erent ports, and then 
 reach the Bay of Kio de Janeiro on the 1st of January, 1531.'^* 
 Aside from this, we have the direct and simj^le statement of Pero 
 
Past Glory of Portugal. 61 
 
 Lopes de Souza, brother to the commander, which not only settles 
 the date of their arrival, but the fact that the bay or supposed 
 river was previously known as Rio de Janeiro, — viz. : " Saturday, 
 30th of April, at four o'clock in the morning, we were in tlic mouth 
 of Rio de Janeiro."'** 
 
 Martin Aftbnso de Souza formed no settlement on the shores of 
 the magniticent bay wliich he had entered, but contented himself 
 with remaining there for a few months, where he constructed three 
 brigantines, and then sailed to the coast of the present province 
 of Silo Paulo. At a place which possessed no great natural ad- 
 vantages he commenced the first European colony (Vespucius's 
 handful of men and Cararauru's wigwams cannot bo called the 
 earliest settlements) in Brazil, and named it >S^^. Vincent. St. Vin- 
 cent no longer exists, unless its existence may be predicated in the 
 few miserable houses and the broken fountain which mark the 
 spot where was laid the first stone of the proudest colony of Por- 
 tugal. On the margin of that spacious and protected harbor which 
 De Souza rejected for an exposed arm of the sea, has sprung up the 
 first commercial cit}^ of South America, and the third in the New 
 World. 
 
 It Avill not be uninstructive to glance at the position, at that 
 time, of the kingdom which sent forth Diaz, Vasco da Gama, 
 Cabral, Coelho, Christbpher Jacques, Vespucius, and De Souza, 
 upon new and hazardous voyages of discovery. The territor}'- of 
 European Portugal was then no greater than at present j but her 
 ambitious monarchs and her daring navigators had pushed their 
 conquests and discoveries not only along the whole western and 
 eastern coasts of Africa, but to " the farthest Ind." Bartholomew 
 Diaz beheld the Cape of Good Hope six years before Columbus 
 discovered America; and Vasco da Gama doubled the same cape 
 ere the great Genoese landed at the mouth of the Orinoco. Poi"- 
 tugal had flourishing colonies in Angola, Loango, and Congo, before 
 Cortez had burned his ships in the Mexican Gulf Before the 
 Honorable East India Company was dreamed of, Portuguese vice- 
 roys and Portuguese commercial enterprises swayed it over mil- 
 lions in Hindostan and Ceylon. They trafficked with the distant 
 Pcnians and the little-known Burmese, on the baiiks of the Irra- 
 waddy, three hundred years before Judson proclaimed, near the 
 
52 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 same river, the gospel of the blessed Saviour. Centuries before the 
 English possessed Hong-Kong or the Americans had opened Japan 
 b}^ commercial treaties, Portugal owned Macao, held intercourse 
 with the curious Chinese, traded with the Japanese, and, through 
 her priests, led more than half a million of those almond-eyed 
 islanders to embrace the doctrines of Rome. Of her immense 
 acquisitions by conquest and discovery, that of Brazil was not to 
 be the least in its importance* and future destiny. "When wo look 
 at what Portugal loas and what she is, we can only exclaim, "How 
 are the mightj^ fiillen !" Portugal has been weighed in the balance 
 and found wanting. Shorn of all her possessions in the East except 
 a territory (comprising Goa and a few unimportant islands) not so 
 large as the State of South Carolina, her commerce is now scarcely 
 known in the Indian Seas. Her dominion west of Asia is limited 
 to her own small European kingdom, to languishing colonies in 
 Africa, and to a fcAV islands in the Atlantic. She owns not an inch 
 of territory in the Western World, where once she had a quarter 
 of the continent. She had not the conservative salt of a pure Chris- 
 tianity to preserve her moralit}'' and her greatness. Like Spain, 
 she became at once the patron and the protectress of the Inquisi- 
 tion; and, though the Portuguese are far more tolerant than the 
 Spaniards, yet the Government of Portugal held on to that cursed 
 engine of Eoman intolerance until 1821. The contrast between 
 Holland and Portugal forces itself upon the consideration of all. 
 They are both nearly of the same European area and population, 
 both were great maritime nations in the sixteenth century, and 
 both made extensive conquests in the East. But, Avhile neighbor- 
 ing states have created a mercantile marine since the era refoi-red 
 to, Holland, in this respect, still ranks as the third power in 
 Europe and the fourth in the world, and her internal pi'osperity 
 has not declined. Her credit has always maintained the highest 
 place among the nations of the earth, while Portugal has been 
 more than once on the verge of bankruptcy. Holland to-day 
 governs twenty-two millions of people, wlio are prosperous and 
 advancing, whether in the Eastern or the Western hemisphere. 
 Portugal, in all her dominions, rules less than one-third of that 
 number. The former is distinguished for tolerance and intelli- 
 gence; the latter, under the blighting shadow of the Papacy, has, 
 
Col'igny's Huguenot Colony. 53 
 
 even in the latter luilf of the nineteenth ccntniy, manifested nar- 
 rowness and bigotry,'^' and her people, as a whole, have been the 
 most ignorant of Europe. The last fcw^ years have, however, wo 
 trust, been the precursor of a better era for Portugal. Her young 
 and enlightened monarch has come to the throne with enlarged 
 viows, and it is fondl}^ hoped that his subjects will be elevated, and 
 that Portugal will assume a position more in accordance with the 
 liistorieal traditions of those days when her kings were energetic, 
 and when her navigators laid at her feet the treasures of the 
 world. 
 
 Eeturning from this digression, let us again watch the progress 
 of events in the new acquisitions of Portugal in the Western World. 
 
 Other eyes than those of Spanish navigators were looking toward 
 Brazil, and to that ver}^ portion of it which had been slighted by 
 Martin Alfonso de Souza. Among the adventurers from France 
 was Nicholas Durand do Villegagnon, a Knight of Malta, a man 
 of considerable abilities, and of some distinction in the French 
 service. He had even been appointed to the gallant post of com- 
 mander of the vessel which bore Mary, Queen of Scots, from France 
 to her own realms. Yiliegagnon aspii'ed to the honor of establish- 
 ing a colony in the New World, and Eio de Janeiro was the chosen 
 spot for his experiment. He had the address, in the outset, to 
 secure the patronage of the great and good Admiral Coligny, 
 whose persevering attempt to plant the Eeformcd religion in 
 both North and South America was a leading feature in his life 
 up to the time when St. Bartholomew's Eve Avas written in 
 characters of blood. 
 
 Villegagnon proposed to found an asylum for the persecuted 
 Huguenots. Admiral Coligny's intiuenco secured to him a respect- 
 able number of colonists. The French court was disposed to view 
 with no small satisfaction the plan of founding a colony, after the 
 example of the Portuguese and Spaniards. 
 
 It was in the year 1555 that Henry II., the reigning king, fur- 
 nished three small vessels, of which Villegagnon took the com- 
 mand and sailed from Havre de Grace. A gale of wind occurred 
 while they were j^et on the coast, and obliged them to put into 
 Dieppe, which they accomplished with considerable difficulty. By 
 this time many of the artificers, soldiers, and noble adventurers 
 
54 ■ ' Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 had become sick of the sea, and abandoned the expedition so soon 
 as they reached the shore. 
 
 After a long and perilous voyage, Villegagnon entered the Bay 
 of Nithcrohy, and commenced fortifying a small island near the 
 entrance, now denominated Lage, and occupied by a fort. His 
 fortress, however, being of wood, could not resist the action of the 
 water at flood-tide, and he was obliged to remove farther upward, 
 to the island now called Villegagnon, where he built a fort, at first 
 named in honor of his patron, Coligny. This expedition was well 
 planned, and the place for a colony fitly chosen. The native tribes 
 were hostile to the Portuguese, but had long traded amicably with 
 the French. Some hundreds of them assembled on the shore at 
 the arrival of the vessels, kindled bonfires in token of their joy, and 
 offered every thing they jiossessed to these allies who had come to 
 defend them against the Portuguese. Such a reception inspired 
 the French with the idea that the continent was already their own, 
 and they denominated it La France Antarctique. 
 
 It was upon this island that they erected their rude place of 
 worship, and here these French Puritans off'ered their prayers and 
 sang their hymns of praise nearly threescore years and ten before 
 a Pilgrim placed his foot on Plymouth Kock, and more than half a 
 centuiy before the Book of Common Prayer was borne to the 
 banks of the James Eiver. 
 
 On the return of the vessels to Europe for a new supply of colo- 
 nists, considerable zeal was awakened for the establishment of the 
 Reformed religion in these remote parts. The Church of Geneva 
 became interested in the object, and sent two ministers and four- 
 teen students, who determined to brave all the hardships of an 
 unknown climate and of a new mode of life in the cause. It is 
 interesting to reflect that when the Reformation was j-et in its 
 infanc}', the subject of propagating the gospel in distant parts 
 of the world was one that engaged the hearts of Christians in the 
 city of Geneva while Calvin, Farel, and Theodore de Beza were 
 Btill living. It would be difficult to find an earlier instance of 
 Protestant missionary eff'ort. 
 
 As the situation of the Huguenots in France was any thing but 
 happy, the combined motive of seeking deliverance from oppression 
 and the advancement of their faith appears to have prevailed 
 
TriE Trrachrry of Villegagnon'. 55 
 
 extensively, and iiuliiccd many to embark. "When we look at the 
 incipient movements of this enterprise, Avithout the knowledge 
 of its conclusion, there seems as mucli reason to hope that the 
 principles of the Keformation would have taken root here, as they 
 did afterward in North Amei-ica, where they have produced a 
 harvest of such wonderful results. 
 
 But misfortunes seemed to attend every step of the enterprise. 
 At Harfleur, the Papist populace rose against the colonists, and 
 the latter, after losing one of their best officers in the conflict, 
 were obliged to seek safety in retreat. They had a tedious voyage, 
 suffering at one time from a violent storm; and, having neared 
 the Brazilian coast, had a slight encounter with the Portuguese. 
 However, they were received by Villegagnon with apparent cor- 
 diality, and effectual operations began to be undertaken for their 
 establishment. But it was not long before certain untoward circum- 
 stances occurred which developed the real and villanous character 
 of their leader. 
 
 Having gained over to his complete influence a certain number 
 who cared not for spiritual piety, Villegagnon, under pretence 
 of changing his religion and returning to the true faith, com- 
 menced a series of persecutions. Those Avho had come to Antarctic 
 France 'to enjoy libert}^ of conscience found their condition worse 
 than befoi'C. They were subjected to abusive treatment and great 
 hardships. This unnatural defection consummated the premature 
 ruin of the colony. The newly-arrived colonists demanded leave 
 to return, which was granted, but in a vessel so badly furnished 
 that some refused to embark, and the majority, who persisted, 
 endured the utmost misery of famine. Villegagnon had given 
 them a box of letters, wrapped in sere-cloth, as was the custom. 
 Among them was one directed to the chief magistrate of the port 
 where they might chance to arrive, in which this worthy friend 
 of the Guises denounced the men whom he had invited out to 
 Brazil to enjoy the peaceable exercise of the Reformed religion^ as 
 heretics worthy of the stake. The magistrates of Hennebonne, 
 where they landed, happened to favor the Reformation, and thus 
 the malignity of Villegagnon was frustrated, and his treacherj'- 
 exposed. Of those who had feared to trust themselves to a vessel 
 so badly stored, and so unfit for the voyage, three were put to 
 
56 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 death by this persecutor. Others of the H\;guenots fled from him 
 to the Portuguese, where they were compelled to apostatize, and 
 to profess a religion which they abhorred. 
 
 The homeward-bound colonists were reduced to the greatest 
 extremity, and, from want of food, they not only devoured all the 
 leather, — even to the covering of their trunks, — but in their despair 
 they attempted to chew the hard, dry brazil-wood which hap- 
 pened to be in the vessel. Several died of hunger ; and they had 
 begun to form the resolution of devouring each other, when land 
 appeared in view. They arrived just in time to undeceive a body of 
 Flemish adventurers ready to embark for Brazil, and also about ten 
 thousand Frenchmen, who would have emigrated if the object of 
 Coligny in founding his colony had not thus been wickedly betrayed. 
 
 Though the Portuguese w^ero so jealous of the Brazilian trade 
 that they treated all interlopers as pirates, yet, by some oversight, 
 they permitted this French colony to remain four years unmolested; 
 and, had it not been for the ti'cachery of Villegagnon to his own 
 pai'ty, Eio de Janeiro would probably have been, at this day, the 
 capital of a French colony or of an independent State in which the 
 Huguenot element would have been predominant. 
 
 The Jesuits were well aware of this danger, and Nobrega, their 
 chief and provincial, at length succeeded in rousing the court of 
 Lisbon. A messenger was commanded to discover the state of the 
 French fortifications. On the ground of his report, orders were 
 despatched to Mem de Sa Barreto, governor of the colony, and 
 resident at San Salvador, to attack and expel the intruders who 
 remained. Having fitted out two vessels-of-war and several mer- 
 chantmen, the governor, taking the command in person, embarked, 
 accompanied by Nobrega as his prime counsellor. They appeared 
 off the bar at Eio early in 1560, with the intention of surprising 
 the island at the dead of night. Being espied by the sentinels, 
 their plan was foiled. The French immediately made ready for 
 defence, forsook their ships, and, with eight hundred native archers, 
 retired to their forts. 
 
 "With reinforcements from St. Yincente, Mem de Sa won the land- 
 ing-place, and, routing the French from their most important holds, 
 so intimidated them that, under cover of the night, they fled, some 
 to their ships and some to the mainland. 
 
Defeat of the French. 57 
 
 The Portuguese, not being strong enough to keep the position 
 the}' had taken, demolished the works, and carried off the artillery 
 and stores which the}' found. A short time after this, new wars, 
 made bj^ the native tribes, bi'okc out against them, and were prose- 
 cuted at different points with great ferocity for several years. In 
 the mean time, the French recovered strength and influence. Pre- 
 parations wei'o again made to extirpate them. A party of Portu- 
 guese and friendly Indians, under the command of a Jesuit appointed 
 by Nobrega, landed near the base of the Sugar-Loaf, and, taking a 
 position now known as Praia Vermelha, maintained a series of 
 indecisive skirmishes with their enemies for more than a year. 
 Occasionally, when successful, they would sing in triumphant hope 
 a verse from the Scriptures, saying, " The bows of the mighty are 
 broken," &c. Well might they call the bows of the Tamoyos 
 mighty; for an arrow sent by one of them would fasten a shield to 
 the arm that held it, and sometimes would pass through the body, 
 and continue its way with such force as to pierce a tree and hang 
 quivering in the trunk. 
 
 Nobrega at length came to the camp, and at his summons Mem 
 de Sa again appeared with all the succors he could raise at San 
 Salvador. All was made ready, and the attack deferred forty-eight 
 hours, in order to take place on St. Sebastian's Day. The auspicious 
 morning came, — that of January 20, 1567. The stronghold of the 
 French was stormed. Not one of the Tamoyos escaped. 
 
 South ey most justly remarks, never was a war in which so little 
 exertion had been made, and so little force employed on both sides, 
 attended by consequences so important. The French court was too 
 busy in burning and massacring Huguenots to think of Brazil, and 
 Coligny, after his generous plans had been ruined by the villanous 
 treachery of Villegagnon, no longer regarded the colony : the day 
 for emigration from his country was over, and they who should 
 have colonized Rio de Janeiro were bearing arms against a bloody 
 and implacable enemy, in defence of every thing dear to man. 
 Portugal was almost as inattentive to Brazil; so that, few and 
 unaided as were the Antarctic French, had Mem de Sa been less 
 earnest in his duty, or Nobrega less able and less indefatigable in 
 his opposition, the former would have retained their place, and 
 perhaps the entire country have this day been French. 
 
58 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Immediately after his victory, the govcrnoi, conformable to his 
 instructions, traced out a new city, which he named San Sebastian, 
 in honor of the saint under whose jiatronage the field was won, and 
 also of the king of the mother-country. The name of San Sebas- 
 tian has been supplanted by that of Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 In connection with the event just narrated, there remains on 
 record a melancholy proof of the cruelty and intolerance of the 
 victors. According to the annals of the Jesuits, Mem de Sa stained 
 the foundations of the city Avith innocent blood. "Among the 
 Huguenots who had been compelled to fly from Villegagnon's per- 
 secution was one John Boles, a man of considerable learning, being 
 well versed both in Greek and Hebrew. Luiz de Gram caused him 
 to be apprehended, with three of his comrades, one of whom feigned 
 to become a Eoman Catholic; the others were cast into prison; and 
 there Boles had remained eight years, when he was sent for to be 
 mart3"red at Eio de Janeiro, for the sake of terrifying his countrj'- 
 men, if any should be lurking in those parts." 
 
 The Jesuits are the only historians of this matter. They pre- 
 tend that Boles apostatized, having been convinced of his errors 
 by Anchieta, a priest greatly celebrated in the annals of Brazil. 
 But, by their own story, it is not very probable that a man who 
 for eight long years had steadfastly refused to renounce the religion 
 of his conviction would now yield. Boles doubtless proved a stub- 
 born unbending Protestant, and for this suffered a cruel death. 
 And, notwithstanding the statement that he was to be slain as an 
 example to his countr3'men, " if an}^ should be found lurking in 
 those parts," it was not the custom of Eome to put to death those 
 who renounced their errors and came into her protecting fold. 
 
 When Boles was brought out to the place of execution, and the 
 executioner bungled in his bloody office, "Anchieta hastily inter- 
 fered, and instructed him how to despatch a heretic as speedily as 
 possible, — fearing, it is said, lest he should become impatient, being 
 an obstinate man, and newly reclaimed, and that thus his soul 
 would be lost. The priest who in any way accelerates the execu- 
 tion of death is thereby suspended from liis office ; but the biogra- 
 pher of Anchieta enumerates this as one of the virtuous actions of 
 his life." 
 
 Though Eio de Janeiro was thus founded in blood, there is no 
 
Reflections. 59 
 
 Roman Catholic country in the world freer from bigotfy and in- 
 tolcrence than the Empire of Brazil. 
 
 Thus failed the establishment of Coligny's colony, upon which 
 the hopes of Protestant Europe had for a short time been concen- 
 trated; and Rio de Janeiro will ever be memorable as the first spot 
 in the Western hemisphere where the banner of the Reformed 
 religion was unfurled. It is true that the attempt was made upon 
 territory which had been appropriated by Portugal; still, a question 
 might arise as to the right of priority in the discovery of this por- 
 tion of Brazil, for it is certain that the Spaniard, De Solis, and also 
 Majellan, Ruy Faleii'o, and Diogo Garcia, Portuguese navigators in 
 the service of Spain, entered the Bay of Nitherohy long before 
 Martin Affonso de Souza. In whatever way this may bo settled, 
 the fact of the failure of this Huguenot effort is full of food for 
 reflection; and we can full}' sympathize with the remarks of the 
 author of "Brazil and La Plata," in regard to the treachery of 
 Villegagnon, and the consequent defeat of the aims of the first 
 French colonists: — 
 
 "With the remembrance of this fiiilure in establishing the Re- 
 formed religion here, and of the direct cause which led to it, I 
 often find myself speculating as to the possible and probable results 
 which would have followed the successful establishment of Protest- 
 antism during the three hundred years that have since intervened. 
 With the wealth, and power, and increasing prosperity of the United 
 States before us, as the fruits at the end of two hundred years' 
 colonization of a few feeble bands of Protestants on the compara- 
 tively bleak and bain-en shore of the Northern continent, there is 
 no presumption in the belief that had a people of similar faith, 
 similar morals, similar habits of industry and enterprise, gained 
 an abiding footing in so genial a climate and on a soil so exuberant, 
 long ago the still unexplored and impenetrable wilderness of the 
 interior would have bloomed and blossomed in civilization as tho 
 rose, and Brazil from the sea-coast to the Andes would have become 
 one of the gardens of the world. But the o-crm which miccht have 
 led to this was crushed by the bad faith and malice of Villegagnon; 
 and, as I look on the spot which bears his name, and, in the eyes of 
 a Protestant at least, perpetuates his reproach, the two or three 
 solitary palms which lift their tufted heads above the embattled 
 
60 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 walls^ and furnish the only evidence of vegetation on the island, 
 seem, instead of plumed warriors in the midst of their defences, 
 like sentinels of grief mourning the blighted hopes of the long 
 past." 
 
 FORTRESS AND ISLAND OF VILLEGAGNON. 
 
 But -WO should not look too "mournfully into the past;" for 
 though, in the mysterious dealings of Providence no Protestant 
 nation, with its attendant vigor and progress, sways it over that 
 fertile and salubrious land, may we not to a certain extent legiti- 
 mately consider the tolerant and fit Constitution of the Empire, 
 and its good government, the general material prosperit}^, and the 
 advancement of the Brazilians in every point of view far beyond 
 all other South American nations, as an answer to the faithful 
 prayers with which those pious Huguenots baptized Brazil more 
 than three centuries ago? 
 
 Note for 1S6G. — The present Emperor has certainly shown himself a friend 
 of toleration. He has aided in the construction of Protestant chapels for 
 colonists; the Government promptly suppressed three riots attempted against 
 Brazilian Protestants, (at Rio de Janeiro, at Bahia, and at Praia Grande;) and 
 other acts might be cited to demonstrate that we have true cause for gratitude 
 at the position of religious toleration in Brazil. But Brazilian legislation should 
 go one step further, and admit to the Parliament all fit men, of whatever 
 religious denomination. Then Brazil will be abreast with the nineteenth century 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 EARLY STATE OF RIO — ATTACKS OF THE FRENCH IMPROVEMENTS UNDER THE 
 
 VICEROYS ARRIVAL OF THE ROYAL FAMILY OF PORTUGAL RAPID POLITICAL 
 
 CHANGES — DEPARTURE OF DOM JOHN VI. THE VICEROYALTY IN THE HANDS 
 
 OF DOM PEDRO BRAZILIANS DISSATISFIED WITH THE MOTHER-COUNTRY DE- 
 CLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE ACCLAMATION OF DOM PEDRO AS EMPEROR. 
 
 For one hundred and forty years after its foundation, the city 
 of San Sebastian enjoyed a state of tranquil prosperity. This 
 quietness was in happy contrast with the turbulent spirit of the 
 age, and especiall}^ with the condition of the principal towns and 
 colonies of Brazil; nearly all of which, during the period referred 
 to, had been attacked by either the English, the Dutch, or the 
 French. In this interval the population and commerce of the place 
 greatly increased. 
 
 At the commencement of the eighteenth century the principal 
 gold-mines of the interior were discovered by the Paulistas, the 
 inhabitants of San Paulo. These gave the name of Minas Geraes 
 (^General Mines) to a large inland province, which became then, 
 as it still remains, tributary to the port of Rio de Janeiro. Gold- 
 digging was found to produce here effects similar to those which 
 resulted from it in the Spanish countries. Agriculture was nearly 
 abandoned, the price of slaves — who had been early introduced — 
 became enormous, and the general prosperity of the country retro- 
 graded; while every one who could rushed to the mines, in hope 
 of speedily enriching himself We even find that the curious and 
 abnormal condition of California in 1848 had its counterpart three 
 centuries ago in Brazil. 
 
 Even the Governor of Rio, forgetful of his official character and 
 
 obligations, went to Minas Geraes and engaged with avidity in the 
 
 search for treasure. The fame of these golden discoveries sounded 
 
 61 
 
62 Brazil and hie Brazilians. 
 
 abroad, and awakened the ciq:)idity of the French, who, in 1710, 
 sent a squadron, commanded by M. Du Clere, with the intent of 
 capturing Rio. Tlie wliole expedition was ingloriously defeated 
 by the Portuguese, under Francisco de Castro, Governor of Eio 
 de Janeiro. This officer possessed no military ability, but blun- 
 dered into a victory over the French, and permitted horrid 
 cruelties to be practised upon the prisoners. France was not 
 slow to resent the inhumanity with which her men had been 
 treated. 
 
 M. Duguay Trouin, one of the ablest naval officers of the times, 
 sought permission to revenge his countrymen and to plunder Hio 
 de Janeiro. Individuals were found ready to incur the expenses 
 of the outfit, in prospect of the speculation. The project was 
 a2:)in'oved by Government, and an immense naval force was placed 
 at Trouiu's disposal. 
 
 This expedition was eminently successful. The tactics of the 
 imbecile Castro did not succeed: the city Avas stormed, taken, and 
 afterward ransomed for a heavy sum. It was during the bombard- 
 ment that the convent of San Bento was battered by the balls, the 
 marks of which are still visible. 
 
 The plunder and the ransom were so great, that, notwithstand- 
 ing, on the return-voyage of the French, a number of their vessels 
 went down Avith twelve hundred men and the most valuable part 
 of the booty, there remained to the adventurers a j^rofit of ninety- 
 two per cent, upon the capital they had risked in the outfit. 
 
 From the time that Daguay Trouin's squadron weighed anchor 
 on their homeward voyage, no hostile fleet has ever entered the 
 harbor of Eio de Janeiro. Great changes, however, have taken 
 place in the condition of that citj'. 
 
 In 1763 it superseded Bahia as the seat of government, and 
 became the residence of the viceroys of Portugal. 
 
 The more substantial improvements of the capital were under- 
 taken at this period. The marshes, which covered a considerable 
 portion of the spot where the town now stands, were drained and 
 diked. The streets were paved and lighted. Cargoes of African 
 slaves, who had hitherto been exposed in the streets for sale, 
 exhibiting scenes of disgust and horror, and also exposing the 
 inhabitants to the worst of diseases, were now ordered to be 
 
Improvements under the Viceroys. 
 
 GO 
 
 removed to the Vallongo, which was designated as a general 
 market for these unhappy beings. 
 
 Fountains of running water were also multiplied. The great 
 aqueduct which spans the llua dos Arcos was then constructed; 
 and in these and various other waj's, the health, comfort, and 
 prosperity of the city were promoted under the successive adminis- 
 trations of the Count da Cunha, the Marquis of Lavradio, and Luiz 
 de Yaseoncellos 
 
 The system of government maintained during these periods 
 throughout Brazil was absolute in the extreme, and by no means 
 calculated to develop the great resources of the countrj^. j^ever- 
 theless, it was anticipated by the more enlightened statesmen of 
 Portugal that the colony would some day eclipse the glory of 
 the mothei'-countr}^ None, however, could foresee the proximity 
 of those events which were about to drive the royal family (the 
 house of Bragauza) to seek an asylum in the New World, and to 
 
64 Brazil a.\d the Brazilians. 
 
 establish their court at Kio de Janeiro. The close of the eighteenth 
 century witnessed their development. 
 
 The French Revolution and the leading spirit which was raised 
 up by it involved the slumbering kingdom of Portugal in the 
 troubles of the Continent. Napoleon determined that the court 
 of Lisbon should declare itself against its ancient ally, England, 
 and assent to the Continental sj-stem adopted b}' the Imperial ruler 
 of France. The Prince-Regent, Dom John VI., promised, but hesi- 
 tated, delayed, and finally, too late, declared war against England. 
 The vacillation of the Prince-Regent hastened events to a crisis. 
 The English fleet, under Sir Sidney Smith, eetablished a most 
 rigorous blockade at the mouth of the Tagus, and the British 
 ambassador left no other alternative to Dom John VI. than to 
 surrender to England the Portuguese fleet, or to avail himself 
 of the British squadron for the protection and transportation of 
 the royal family to Brazil. The moment was critical : the army 
 of Napoleon had penetrated the mountains of Beira ; only an 
 immediate departure would save the monarchy. No resource re- 
 mained to the Prince-Regent but to choose between a tottering 
 throne in Europe and a vast empire in America. His indecisions 
 were at an end. By a royal decree he announced his intention to 
 retire to Rio de Janeiro until the conclusion of a general peace. 
 The archives, the treasures, and the most precious efl'ects of th'e 
 crown, were transferred to the Portuguese and English fleets; and, 
 on the 29th of November, 1807, accompanied b}^ his family and a 
 multitude of faithful followers, the Prince-Regent took his de- 
 parture amid the combined salvos of the cannon of Great Britain 
 and of Portugal. That verj^ da}^ Marshal Junot thundered upon the 
 heights of Lisbon, and the next morning took possession of the 
 city. Early in January, 1808, the news of these surprising events 
 reached Rio de Janeiro, and excited the most lively interest. 
 
 What the Brazilians had dreamed of onlj^ as a remote possible 
 event was now suddenly to be realized. The royal family might 
 be expected to arrive any day, and preparations for their reception 
 occupied the attention of all. The Viceroy's palace was imme- 
 diately prepared, and all the public offices in the Palace Square 
 were vacated to accommodate the royal suite. These not being 
 deemed sufficient, proprietors of private houses in the neighborhood 
 
Arrival of the Royal Family. 65 
 
 were required to leave their residences and send in their keys to 
 the Viceroy. 
 
 Such Avere the sentiments of the people respecting the hosj")!- 
 tality duo to their distinguished guests, that nothing seems to 
 have been withheld; while many, even of the less opulent families, 
 voluntarily offered sums of money and objects of value to administer 
 to their comfort. 
 
 Tlie fleet having been scattered in a storm, the jorincipal vessels 
 had put into Bahia, where Dom John VI. gave that carta regia 
 which opened the ports of Brazil to the commerce of the world. 
 At length all made a safe entry into the harbor of Eio, on the 7th 
 of March, 1808. In the manifestations of joy upon this occasion, 
 ' .10 houses were deserted and the hills were covered with spec- 
 tators. Those who could procured boats and sailed out to meet 
 the royal squadron. The prince, immediately after landing, pro- 
 ceeded to the cathedral, and publicly offered thanks for his safe 
 arrival. The city was illuminated for nine successive evenings. 
 
 In order to form an idea of the changes that have occurred in 
 Brazil during the last lifty years, it must be remarked, that, up to 
 the period now under consideration, all commerce and intercoui'se 
 with foreigners had been rigidly prohibited by the narrow policy 
 of Portugal. Vessels of nations allied to the mother-country were 
 occasionally permitted to come to anchor in the ports of this mam- 
 moth colony; but neither passengers nor crew were allowed to 
 land excepting under the superintendence of a guard of soldiers. 
 The policy pursued by China and Jaj)an was scarcely more strict 
 and prohibitory. 
 
 To prevent all possibility of trade, foreign vessels — whether they 
 had put in to repair damages or to jji'ocure provisions and water — 
 immediately on their arrival were invested with a custom-house 
 guard, and the time for their remaining was fixed by the authori- 
 ties according to the supposed necessities of the case. As a conse- 
 quence of these oppressive regulations, a people who were rich in 
 gold and diamonds were unable to procure the essential imjolements 
 of agriculture and of domestic convenience. A Avealthy planter, 
 who could display the most rich and massive plate at a festival, 
 might not be able to furnish each of his guests with a knife at 
 
 table. A single tumbler at the same time might be under the 
 
 6 
 
66 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 necessity of making repeated circuits through the company. The 
 printing-press had not made its appearance. Books and learning 
 were equally rare. The people were in every way made to feel 
 their dependence; and the spirit of industry and enterprise were 
 alike unknown. 
 
 On the arrival of the Prince-Regent the ports were thrown open. 
 A printing-press was introduced, and a Eoyal Gazette was pub- 
 lished. Academies of medicine and the fine arts were established. 
 The Eoyal Librarj^, containing sixtj^ thousand volumes of books, 
 was opened for the free use of the public. Foreigners were in- 
 vited, and embassies from England and France took up their 
 residence at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 From this period, decided improvements were made in the con- 
 dition and aspect of the city. New streets and squares were 
 added, and splendid residences were arranged on the neighboring 
 islands and hills, augmenting, with the growth of the town, the 
 picturesque beauties of the surrounding scenery. The sudden and 
 'continued influx of Portuguese and foreigners not only showed 
 itself in the population of Rio, but extended inland, causing new 
 ways of communication to be opened with the interior, new towns 
 to be erected, and old ones to be improved. In fact, the whole 
 face of the countr}'^ underwent great and rapid changes. 
 
 The manners of the people also experienced a corresponding 
 mutation. The fashions of Europe were introduced. From the 
 seclusion and restraints of non-intercourse the people emerged into 
 the festive ceremonies of a court, whose levees and gala-days drew 
 together multitudes from all directions. In the mingled society 
 which the capital now offered, the dust of retirement was brushed 
 off, antiquated customs gave way, new ideas and modes of life 
 were adopted, and these spread from circle to circle and from 
 [town to town. 
 
 Business assumed an aspect equally changed. Foreign com- 
 mercial houses were opened, and foreign artisans established them- 
 selves in Rio and other cities. 
 
 This country could no longer remain a colony. A decree was 
 promulgated in December, 1815, declaring it elevated to the dig- 
 nity of a kingdom, and hereafter to form an integral part of the 
 United Kingdom of Portugal, Algarves, and Brazil. It is scarcely' 
 
Rapid Political Changes. 67 
 
 possible to imagine the enthusiasm awakened by this unlooked-for 
 change throughout the vast extent of Portuguese America. Mes- 
 sengers were despatched to bear the news, which was hailed with 
 spontaneous illuminations from the La Plata to the Amazon. 
 Scarcely Avas this event consummated when the queen, Donna 
 Maria I., died. 
 
 She was mother to the Prince-Eegent, and had been for years in 
 a state of mental imbecility'', so that her death had no influence 
 upon political affairs. Her funeral obsequies were performed with 
 great splendor; and her son, in respect for her memory, delayed 
 the acclamation of his accession to the throne for a year. He was 
 at length crowned, with the title of Dom John VI. The cere- 
 monies of the coronation were celebrated Avith suitable magnifi-. 
 cence in the Palace Square, on the 5th of February, 1818, 
 
 Amid all the advantages attendant upon the new state of things 
 in Brazil, there were many circumstances calculated to provoke 
 political discontent. It was then that bitter feelings toward the 
 natives of Portugal sprang up, which, though modified, still exist 
 throughout the Empire, and made, at a later date, the severance 
 of Brazil from the mother-country more easy of accomplishment 
 than the separation of the thirteen colonies of North America from 
 the crown of Great Britain. There had always been, to a greater 
 or less extent, a certain rivalry between the native Brazilian and 
 the Portuguese ; but now it found a new cause of excitement. The 
 Government felt itself bound to find places for the more than 
 twenty thousand needy and unprincipled adventurers who had 
 followed the royal family to the Kew World. These men cared 
 very little for the welfare of Brazil, either in the administration 
 of justice or in acts for the benefit of the public. Their greatest 
 interest by far was manifested in the eager desire to fleece the 
 country and enrich themselves. Honors were heaped upon those 
 Brazilians who had furnished house and money to the Prince- 
 Regent; and, as he had nothing to give them but decorations, he 
 was soon surrounded by knights Avho had never displayed either 
 chivahy or learning. The excitement thus aroused in a country 
 where titulary distinctions Avere hitherto almost unknoAvn was 
 intense. Every one aspired to become a cavalheiro or a coin- 
 mendador, and the most degrading sycophancy was practised to 
 
68 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 obtain the ro^-al favor. Men who had been good traders in im- 
 ported articles, or successful dealers in mandioca and coffee, once 
 knighted, could never again return to the drudgery and debasing 
 associations of commercial life, and must live either on previously- 
 acquired fortunes or seek Government employment. 
 
 On this gi'ound the native Brazilians and the newly-arrived 
 Portuguese fought their first battles. They were rivals for place, 
 and, once in office, the Brazihan was as open to evcrj* species of 
 bribery and corruption as the most venal hanger-on of the court 
 from Lisbon. The Brazilians, however, had one advantage over 
 their adversaries. The natives sympathized most fully with their 
 recently-knighted brethren, and listened to their complaints with 
 a willing ear. These things, together with the wretched state of 
 morals that prevailed at the court, were calculated to increase the 
 jealousy of what the Brazilians considered a foreign dominion 
 over thera. The independence of the English North American 
 colonies and the successful revolutionary struggle of some of the 
 neighboring Spanish-American provinces still more augmented the 
 uneasiness of the people ; and a consciousness of this increasing 
 discontent, and a fear that Brazil might be induced to follow the 
 example of her revolting Spanish neighbors, doubtless had a 
 powerful influence upon the Grovernment in making the con- 
 cessions named. 
 
 Tranquillity followed the erection of Brazil into a constituent 
 portion of the kingdom; but it was of short duration. Discontent 
 was at Avork. The intended revolt at Peruambuco in 1817 was 
 betrayed to the Government, and the insurgents were prematurely 
 compelled to take up arms, and suffered defeat from the troops 
 sent against them by the Count dos Arcos. From this time there 
 seems to have been a systematic exclusion of native Brazilians 
 from commands in the army. 
 
 Murmurs were gradually disseminated; but they found no echo — 
 as in the case of the jSTorth American colonies — from the press, 
 which had, with common schools, followed in the immediate wake 
 of the English colonists. The first, and at that time the only, 
 printing-press in the country, was brought from Lisbon in 1808, 
 and was under the direct control of the royal authorities. Its 
 columns faithfully recorded for the Brazilian public the health of 
 
Departure of D. John VL 69 
 
 all the Eun^pcan princes. It was filled with official edicts, birth- 
 day odes, and panegyrics on the royal family; but its jiagos were 
 unsullied by the ebullitions of the democracy, or the exposure of 
 their grievances. As has been well said by Armitage, " to have 
 judged of the country by the tone of its only journal, it must have 
 been pronounced a terrestrial paradise, Avhere no word of com- 
 plaint had ever yet found utterance." 
 
 But at length the time arrived when the monotony of the Court 
 Gazette was interrupted, and the people soon found voices for 
 their grievances, and in the end substantial redress. 
 
 The revolution which occurred in Portugal in 1821, in favor of a 
 Constitution, was immediately responded to by a similar one in 
 Brazil. 
 
 After much excitement and alarm from the tumultuous move- 
 ments of the people, the King, D. John. VI., conferred upon his son 
 Dom Pedro, Prince-Eoyal, the office of Regent and Lieutenant to 
 His Majesty in the Kingdom of Brazil. He then hastened his de- 
 parture for Portugal, accompanied by the remainder of his family 
 and the principal nobility who had followed him. The disheartened 
 monarch embarked on board a line-of-battle ship on the 24th of 
 AjDril, 1821, leaving the widest and fairest j)ortion of his dominions 
 to a destiny not indeed unlooked for by his majesty, but wJiich 
 was fulfilled much sooner than his melancholy forebodings antici- 
 pated.* 
 
 Eapid as had been the ijolitical changes in Brazil during the last 
 ten years, greater changes still were about to take place. Dom 
 Pedro, who now enjoyed the dignity and attributes of Prince- 
 Eegent and Lieutenant of His Majesty the King of Portugal, was 
 at this period in the twenty-third year of his age. He possessed 
 many of the essentials of popularity. His personal beauty was 
 not less marked than his frank and affable manners, and his dispo- 
 sition, though capricious, was enthusiastic. He had decision of 
 character, and was one who seemed to know when to seize the 
 
 * Just as the vessel was ready to sail, the old king pressed his son to his bosom 
 for the last time, and exclaimed, "Pedro, Brazil will, I fear, ere long separate 
 herself from Portugal ; and if so, place the crown on thine own head rather than 
 
 allow it to fall into the hands of any adventurer." 
 
70 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 proper moment for calming the populace, as when at Eio, while 
 the Kinc: was in the Palace of San Christovilo, only three miles 
 away, ne, upon his own authority, gave to the people and the 
 troops a decree whereby an unreserved acceptance of the future 
 Constitution of the Portuguese Cortes was guaranteed. He also 
 knew Avell how to guard his prerogative. The Prince's consort 
 was by lineage and talent worthy of his hand, for Leopoldina was 
 an archduchess of Austria; in her veins coursed the blood of 
 Maria Theresa, and it was her sister Maria Louisa who was the 
 bride of Napoleon. She was not possessed of great personal 
 beauty, j'ct her kindness of heart and her unpretentious bearing 
 endeared her to every one who knew her. 
 
 Dom Pedro had left Portugal when a mere lad, and' it was 
 believed that his highest aspirations were associated with the land 
 of his adoption. In the office of Prince-Eegent he certainl}^ found 
 scope for his most ardent ambition; but he also discovered himself 
 to be surrounded with numerous difficulties, political and financial. 
 So embarrassing indeed was his situation, that in the course of a 
 few months he begged his father to allow him to resign his office 
 and attributes. The Cortes of Portugal about this time becoming 
 jealous of the position of the Prince in Brazil, passed a decree 
 ordering him to return to Europe, and at the same time abolishing 
 the royal tribunals at Eio. This decree was received with indig- 
 nation by the Brazilians, who immediately rallied around Dom 
 Pedro, and persuaded him to remain among them. His consent to 
 do so gave rise to the most enthusiastic demonstrations of joy 
 among both patriots and loyalists. The Portuguese military soon 
 evinced symptoms of mutiny. 
 
 A conflict seemed inevitable; but the Portuguese commander 
 vacillated in view of the determined opposition manifested by the 
 people, who flew to arms, and offered to capitulate on the condition 
 of his soldiers retaining their arms. This was conceded, on their 
 agreeing to retire to Praia Grande, a city on the opposite side of 
 the bay, until transports could be provided for their embarkation 
 to Lisbon; which was subsequently effected. The measures of the 
 Cortes of Portugal, which continued to be arbitrary in the extreme 
 toward Brazil, finally had the effect to hasten, in the latter country, 
 a declaration of absolute independence. This measure had long 
 
Declaration of Independence. 71 
 
 been ardently desired by the more enlightened Brazilians, some of 
 whom had already urged Dom Pedro to assume the title of Emperor 
 Hitherto he had refused, and reiterated his allegiance to Portugal 
 But ho at length, while on a journey to the province of S. Paulo 
 received despatches from the mother-country, which had the effect 
 of cutting short all delay, and caused him to declare for independ- 
 ence in a manner so decided and explicit that henceforward all 
 retrograde measures would be utterly impracticable. 
 
 On the 7th of September, 1822, when he read the despatches, he 
 was surrounded by his courtiers, on those beautiful camj)inas in 
 sight of San Paulo, a city which had ever been, as it is now, cele- 
 brated in Brazil for the liberality and intelligence of its inhabitants. 
 It was then, on the margin of an insignificant stream, — the 
 Ypiranga, — that he made that exclamation, ^'■Iridependencia ou viorte," 
 (Independence or death,) which became the watchword of the Bra- 
 zilian Revolution; and from the 7th of September, 1822, the inde- 
 pendence of the countr^^ has since held its ofiicial date. It has 
 been truly said that in the eyes of the civilized world it was a 
 memorable circumstance, and must ever form an epoch in the 
 history of the Western continent. 
 
 It was indeed a gi-eat event, which has led to vast results. It 
 was a grand revolution, begun by one whose very birth and position 
 would have led the contemplative philosopher or statesman to 
 pronounce it impossible that he should become the leader of a 
 popular cause. It was the descendant of a long line of Euroj^ean 
 monarchs who inaugurated that movement which severed the last 
 — the most faithful — of the great divisions of South America from 
 transatlantic rule. 
 
 The Prince-Regent hastened to Rio de Janeiro by a rapid journey; 
 and there, so soon as his determination was known, the enthusiasm 
 in his favor knew no bounds. 
 
 The municipality of the capital issued a proclamation on the 2l8t 
 of Septembei', declaring their intention to fulfil the manifest wishes 
 of the people, by proclaiming Dom Pedro the constitutional Emperor 
 and perpetual defender of Brazil. This ceremony was performed 
 on the 12th of October following, in the Campo de Santa Anna, iu 
 the presence of the municipal authorities, the functionaries of the 
 court, the troops, and an immense concourse of peoj^le. His High- 
 
72 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ness there publicly declared, his acceptance of the title conferred on 
 him, from the conviction that he was thus obeying the will of the 
 people. The troops fired a salute, and the citj^ was illuminated in 
 the evening. Jose Bonifacio de Andrada, prime minister of the 
 Government, had in the mean time promulgated a decree, requiring 
 all the Portuguese who were disposed to embrace the popular cause 
 to manifiest their sentiments by wearing the Emperor's motto — 
 " Independencia ou morte" — upon their arm, ordering also, that all 
 dissentients should leave the country within a given period, and 
 threatening the penalties imposed upon high-treason against any 
 one who should thenceforward attack, by word or deed, the sacred 
 cause of Brazil. 
 
 The prime minister was the eldest of three brothers, all of them 
 remarkable for their talents, learning, eloquence, and (though at 
 times factious) for their sterling patriotism. They were unin- 
 fluenced by either the adulation of the populace or the favor of the 
 Emperor. Jose Bonifacio de Andrada combined, to an eminent 
 degree, the various excellencies suited to the emergencies of the 
 incipient stages of the Empire. 
 
 The Brazilian Revolution was comparatively a bloodless one. 
 The glory of Portugal was already waning; her resources were 
 exhausted, and her energies crippled' by internal dissensions. 
 
 That nation made nothing like a systematic and persevering 
 effort to maintain her ascendency over her long-depressed but now 
 rebellious colony. The insulting measures of the Cortes were con- 
 summated only in their vaporing decrees. The Portuguese domi- 
 nion was maintained for some time in Bahia and other ports, which 
 had been occupied by military forces. But these forces were at 
 length compelled to withdraw and leave Brazil to her own control. 
 So little contested, indeed, and so rapid, was this revolution, that in 
 les'' than three years from the time independence was declared on 
 the plains of the Ypiranga, Brazil was acknowledged to be inde- 
 pendent at the court of Lisbon. In the mean time the Emperor 
 had been crowned as Dom Pedro I., and an assembly of delegates 
 from the provinces had been convoked for the formation of a 
 Constitution. 
 
ARMS OF THE BRAZILIAN EMPIRE. 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 TUE ANDRADAS INSTRUCTIONS OF THE EMPEKOR TO TUE CONSTITUENT ASSEMHLY — ■ 
 
 DOM PEDRO I. DISSOLVES THE ASSEMBLY BY FORCE — CONSTITUTION FRAMED BY 
 
 A SPECIAL COMMISSION CONSIDERATIONS OF THIS DOCUMENT THE RULE OF 
 
 DOM PEDRO I. CAUSES OF DISSATISFACTION THE EMPEROR ABDICATES IN FAVOB 
 
 OF DOM PEDRO II. 
 
 The new state of affairs did not, however, proceed with either 
 smoothness or velocity. Political bitterness, jealousy, and strife 
 were at work. The Andrada ministry* were accused of being 
 arbitrary and tyrannical. Brazil owed her independence, and Dom 
 Pedro I. his crown, chiefly to their exei'tionsj yet their administra- 
 tions cannot by any means be exempted from censure. Their 
 views were certainly comprehensive, and their intentions patriotic; 
 but their impatient and ambitious spirit rendered them, when in 
 power, intolerant to their political opponents. They were assailed 
 with great energy, and finally compelled to resign; but such were 
 the tumults of the people, and the violent partisan exertions in 
 their favor, that they were reinstated, and Jose Bonifacio was 
 drawn in his carriage by the populace through the streets of Eio 
 de Janeiro. Eight months afterward a combination of all parties 
 
 * Jose Bonifacio was prime minister, and Martin Francisco de indrada was at 
 the head of the Finance Department. 
 
 73 
 
14: Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 again effected the ejection of the brothers Andrada from the 
 ministry, but not from power. They became the most factious 
 opponents of the Emperor and of the ministry which succeeded 
 theirs. They were unmitigated in their attacks, both in the 
 Assembly and through the press. 
 
 The Constituent Assembly had done little besides wrangling. 
 The members were mostly men of narrow views and of little 
 ability; hence it was that the Andradas, by their eloquence and 
 knowledge of parliamentary tactics, had such power over their 
 minds. The Emperor, with great good sense, had, in opening the 
 sessions, told the Assembly that the recent ''Constitutions founded 
 on the models of those of 1791 and 1792 had been acknowledged 
 as too abstract and too metaphj'sical for execution. This has been 
 jH'Oved by the example of France, and more recently by that of 
 Spain and Portugal." His Imperial Majesty seems to have had a 
 high standard of constitutional excellence, and one which we would 
 have deemed it difficult, and perhaps impossible, for the Brazilian 
 peojjle to have reached. "We have need," he said in his address 
 from the throne, " of a Constitution where the powers may be so 
 divided and defined, that no one branch can arrogate to itself the 
 prerogatives of another; a Constitution which may be an insur- 
 mountable barrier against all invasion of the royal authority, 
 whether aristocratic or popular; which will overthrow anarch}', 
 and cherish the tree of liberty; beneath whose shade we shall see 
 the union and the independence of this Empire flourish. In a word, 
 a Constitution that will excite the admiration of other nations, and 
 even of our enemies, who will consecrate the triumph of our prin- 
 ciples in adopting them." (From the Falla do Throno, 3d May, 
 1823.) 
 
 Notwithstanding those instructions, the Constituent Assembly 
 made no progress in forming a document from which such grand 
 results were to flow as those depicted by the Emperor. The 
 Andradas continued their opposition to various measures brought 
 forward by the Government. His Majesty was irritated by their 
 continual thrusts at the Portuguese incorporated in the Brazilian 
 army. An outrage committed by two Portuguese officers upon the 
 supposed author of an attack upon them was, in the excited state 
 of public feeling, magnified into an outrage on the nation. The 
 
D. Pedro L Dissolves the Assembly. '75 
 
 8uflfci-cr demanded justice from the House of Deputies, and the 
 Andradas most loudly demanded vengeance on the Portuguese 
 aggressors. The journal under their control, called the " Tamoyo," 
 (from a tribe of Indians who wore the bitter foes of the early Por- 
 tuguese settlers,) was equally violent. It even went so far as to 
 insinuate that if the Government did not turn aside from its anti- 
 national course, its power would be of short continuance, and, as a 
 warning to the Emperor, the examjjle of Charles I. of England was 
 alluded to in no unmeaning terms. 
 
 But Dora Pedro I. was no weak and vacillating Stuart. He pos- 
 sessed more of the spirit of Oliver Cromwell or of the First Na- 
 poleon. The Assembly, through the three brothers, was induced 
 to declare itself in permanent session. The Emperor, finding that 
 they (the Andradas) still maintained their predominance, mounted 
 on horseback, and, at the head of his cavalry, marched to the 
 Chamber, planted his cannon before its walls, and sent up General 
 Moraes to the Assembly to order its instantaneous dissolution. 
 
 The Assembly was broken up. The three Andradas were seized, as 
 well as the Deputies Eocha and Montezuma, and were, without trial 
 or examination, transported to France. Thus ended, for a brief 
 period at least, the political career of the eloquent, patriotic, and 
 factious Andradas. 
 
 The Emperor issued a proclamation, stating that he had taken 
 the measures recounted above, solely with the view of avoiding 
 anarch}^; and the public were reminded that " though the Emperor 
 had, from regard to the tranquillity of the Empire, thought fit to 
 dissolve the said Assembly, he had in the same decree convoked 
 another, in conformity with the acknowledged constitutional rights 
 of his people." 
 
 A special commission of ten individuals was convened on the 
 26th of November, 1823, for the purpose of forming such a Con- 
 stitution as might meet with the Imperial approval. The members 
 of this commission immediately commenced their labors under the 
 personal superintendence of D. Pedro I., who furnished them the 
 bases of the document which he wished to bo framed, and gave 
 them forty days for the accomplishment of the object. 
 
 The ten councillors, as a body, were badly qualified for the im- 
 portant task before them; yet several of their number were noted 
 
76 Bkazil axd the Brazilians. 
 
 for the excellence of their private characters, and two only for 
 their erudition. One of these two, Carneiro de Campos, was for- 
 tunately intrusted with the drawing up of the Constitution, and 
 to him it has been said Brazil is principally indebted for a number 
 of the most liberal provisions of the code, — provisions Avhich he 
 insisted on introducing in opposition to the wishes of many of his 
 colleagues. 
 
 It is evident that the drafting-committee of ten could not foresee 
 how liberal were the provisions of this Constitution, for most of 
 them were staunch royalists; yet various providential circum- 
 stances conduced to the production of a just and liberal instrument 
 of government. [See Appendix B.] 
 
 Its most important features may be stated in a few words. The 
 government of the Empire is monarchical, hereditarj^, constitutional, 
 and representative. The religion of the State is the Eoman Ca- 
 tholic, but all other denominations are tolerated. Judicial pro- 
 ceedings are public, and there is the right of habeas corpus and 
 trial by jury. The legislative power is in the General Assembly, 
 which answers to the Imperial Parliament of England or to the 
 Congress of the United States. The senators are elected for life, 
 and the representatives for four j^ears. The presidents of the 
 provinces arc appointed by the Emperor. There is a legislative 
 Assembly to each province for local laws, taxation, and government: 
 thus, Brazil is a decentralized Empire. The senators and representa- 
 tives of the General Assembly are chosen through the intervention 
 of electors, as is the President of the United States, and the pro- 
 vincial legislators are elected by universal suffrage. The press is 
 free, and there is no proscription on account of color, 
 
 The Constitution thus framed was accepted by the Emperor, and 
 on the 25th of March, 1824, w^as sworn to by his Imperial High- 
 ness, and by the authorities and people throughout the Empire. It 
 is an instrument truly remarkable, considering the source whence 
 it emanated, and we cannot continue the subsequent history of 
 the countr}^ without devoting to its merits a few passing reflections. 
 
 This Constitution commenced by being the most liberal of all 
 other similar documents placed before a South American people. In 
 its wise and tolerant notions, and in its adaptation to the nation for 
 which it was prepared, it is second onl}" to that which govei-ns the 
 
The Brazilian Constitution, XT 
 
 A.ngIo-Saxon Confederacy of North Amcricii. States and indi- 
 viduals may utter, in their charters of government, fine sentences 
 in regard to equality and right; but if they fail in practicability 
 and in securing those very elements of justice, stabilitj^, and pro- 
 gress, the eloquent phrases arc but "as sounding brass or a tinkling 
 cymbal." The Brazilian Constitution has, to a great extent, secured 
 equality, justice, and consequently national prosperity. She is 
 to-day govci'ned by the same Constitution with which more than 
 thirt}' years ago she commenced her full career as a nation. While 
 every Spanish-American Government has been the scene of bloody 
 revolutions, — while the civilized world has looked with horror, 
 wonder, and pity upon the self-constituted bill of the people's 
 rights again and again trampled under foot by turbulent faction 
 and priestly bigotry, or by the tyranny of the most narrow-minded 
 dictators, — the only Portuguese-American Government (though it 
 has had its provincial revolts of a short duration) has beheld but 
 two revolutions, and those were peaceful, — one fully in accordance 
 with the Constitution;* the other, the proclamation of the ma- 
 jority of Dom Pedro II., was by suspending a single article of the 
 Government compact. 
 
 Mexico, which, in extent of territory, population, and resources, 
 is more properly comparable to Brazil than any other Hispano- 
 American country, established her first Constitution only one 
 month (Februar}^, 1824) earlier than the adoption of the Brazilian 
 charter of government and rights. But poor Mexico has been the 
 prey of every unscrupulous demagogue who could for the moment 
 command the army. Her Constitution has repeatedly been over- 
 tlirown; the victorious soldiery of a hardier nation placed her at 
 the mercy of a foreign cabinet; her dominion has been despoiled; 
 her commerce crippled and diminished by her own inertness and 
 narrow policy; personal security and national prosperity are 
 unknown, and her people are this day no further advanced than 
 when the Constitution was fii'st set aside in 1835. 
 
 Brazil, on the other hand, has been continually progressing. 
 The head of the Empire is in the same famil}', and governs under 
 
 * The abdication of Dom Pedro I. in favor of his son, Dom Pedro II., the present 
 Emperor. 
 
78 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the same Constitution that was established in 1824. Her commercfe 
 doubles every ten years ; she possesses cities lighted by gas, long 
 lines of steamships, and the beginnings of railways that are spread- 
 ing from the sea-coast into the fertile interior; in her borders 
 education and genei-al intelligence are constantly advancing. 
 
 This great contrast cannot be accounted for altogether on the 
 ground of the ditference between the two people and between 
 their respective forms of government. It is doubtless true that 
 a Monarchy is better suited to the Latin nations than a Republic ; 
 and it is equally apparent that there is a very great dissimilarity 
 between the Spaniard and his descendants, and the Portuguese and 
 his descendants. The Spaniard affects to despise the Portuguese, 
 and the latter has of late years been underrated in the eyes of the 
 world.* The child of Castile, take him where you will, is ambi- 
 tious, chivalric, bigoted, vain, extravagant, and laz}". The son 
 of Lusitania is not wanting in vanity, but is more tolerant and 
 less turbulent than his neighbor, and is a being both economical 
 and industrious. 
 
 The reasons, under Providence, of the great divergence in the 
 results of the Brazilian and Mexican Constitution may be summed 
 up briefly thus : — Brazil, while providing a hereditarj^ monarchical 
 head, recognised most fully the democratic element ; while acknow- 
 ledging the Roman Catholic religion to be that established b}'- the 
 State, she guaranteed, with the single limitations of steeples and 
 bells, the unrestricted right of worship to all other denominations; 
 she established public judicial proceedings, the habeas corpus, and 
 the right of trial by jury. 
 
 Mexico, in the formation of her Constitution, copied that of the 
 United States, but departed from that document, in the two most 
 important particuhirs, as widely as the oft-quoted strolling actors 
 de^iatcd from the original tragedy when i\\Qj advertised "Hamlet" 
 to be played minus the role of the Prince of Denmark. The Mexican 
 Constitution established an exclusive religion with all the rigorous 
 bigotry of Old Spain ; and public judicial proceedings and the inter- 
 vention by juries were omitted altogether. The starting-point of 
 
 * "Strip a Spaniard of all his virtues, and you make a good Portuguese of 
 him." — Spanish Peoverb. 
 
The Rule of Dom Pedro L 79 
 
 Brazil and Mexico wore entirely different : the former, happy in a 
 suitable form of government and in liberal principles from the 
 beginning, has outstripped the latter in all that constitutes true 
 national greatness. 
 
 Brazil did not, however, attain her present proud position in 
 South America without days of trial and hard experience. Corrupt 
 and unprincipled men were in greater numbers than those who 
 possessed stern and patriotic virtue. The people were ignorant 
 and unaccustomed to self-government, and were often used by 
 unscrupulous leaders to the advancement of their own purposes. 
 
 The administration of Dom Pedro I. continued about ten years, 
 and, during its lapse, the country unquestionably made greater 
 advances in intelligence than it had done in three centuries which 
 intervened between its first discovery and the proclamation of the 
 Portuguese Constitution in 1820. Nevertheless, this administra- 
 tion was not without its faults or its difficulties. Dom Pedro, 
 although not tyrannical, was imprudent. He was energetic, but 
 inconstant ; an admirer of the representative form of government, • 
 but hesitating in its practical enforcement. 
 
 Elevated into a hero during the struggle for independence, he 
 appears to have been guided rather by the example of other poten- 
 tates than by any mature consideration of the existing state and 
 exigencies of Brazil; and hence, perhaps, the eagerness with which 
 he embarked in the war against Montevideo, which certainly had 
 its origin in aggi'ession, and which, after crippling the commerce, 
 checking the prosperity, and exhausting the finances of the Empire, 
 ended only in the full and unrestrained cession of the province in 
 dispute. 
 
 It may be remarked, that the defeat of the Brazilians in the 
 Banda Oi-iental, though a seeming disgrace, was one of the greatest 
 blessings that could have been bestowed upon the Empire. It 
 appears that that war and its disastrous results were the means 
 of preserving Brazil from making such modifications in her Consti- 
 tution as might, if effected, have terminated in the overthrow 
 of some of her most valuable institutions. The non-success of her 
 arms almost annihilated the thirst for military distinction which 
 was springing up; and the energies of the rising generation were 
 consequently turned more toward civil pursuits, from which resulted 
 
80 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 social ameliorations that tended to consolidate the well-being of 
 the State. 
 
 In addition to the imprudence and inconstancy of the Emperor, 
 it was said — and not without truth — that his habits were extrava- 
 gant and his morals extremely defective.* And yet, the main 
 cause of his personal unpopularity seems to have consisted in his 
 never having known how to become the man of his people, — in his 
 never having constituted himself entirely and truly a Brazilian. 
 
 He was often heard to express the sentiment that the only true 
 strength of a government lay in public opinion ; yet, unfortunately, 
 he did not know how to conciliate the public opinion of the people 
 over whom it was his destiny to reign. At the period of the Ilevo- 
 lution, he had, under the excitements of enthusiasm, uttered senti- 
 ments calculated to flatter the nascent spirit of nationality, and his 
 sincerity had been credited ; j^et his subsequent employment of a 
 foreign force, his continued interference in the affairs of Portugal, 
 his institution of a secret cabinet, and his appointment of naturalized 
 • Portuguese to the highest offices of the State, to the apparent ex- 
 clusion of natives of the soil, had, among a jealous people, given 
 rise to the universal impression that the monarch himself was still 
 a Poi'tuguese at heart. 
 /] The native Brazilians believed that they were beheld with sus- 
 kI picion, and hence became restive under a Government which they 
 regarded as nurturing foreign interests and a foreign party. Oppor- 
 tunities for manifesting their dissatisfaction frequently occurred, 
 and these manifestations were met by more offensive measures. 
 At length, after fruitless efforts to suppress the rising spirit of re- 
 bellion in different parts of the Empire, Dora Pedro found himself 
 in circumstances as painful and as humiliating as those which 
 forced his father, Dom John VI., to retire to Portugal. Opposi- 
 tion which had long been covert became undisguised and relentless. 
 The most indifferent acts of the Emperor were distorted to his pre- 
 judice, and all the ii-regularities of his private life were brought 
 
 * The older citizens of Rio de Janeiro have not yet forgotten the place that the 
 Marchioness of Santos held in the first Emperor's affections ; and his slighting 
 treatment of his own spouse — a daughter of the high house of Hapsburg — was 
 notorious. It has been said that, though a bad husband, he was a good father. 
 
Popular Agitation. 81 
 
 before the public. Individuals to whom be bad been a benefactor 
 deserted him, and, perceiving that his star was on the wane, had 
 the baseness to contribute to his overthrow. The very army which 
 he had raised at an immense sacrifice, which he had maintained 
 to the groat prejudice of his popularity, and on which he had 
 unfortunately placed more reliance than upon the people, betrayed 
 him at last. 
 
 After various popular agitations, which had the continual effectsj ^p) 
 of Avidoning the breach between the Imperial party and the patriots, ' \ " 
 the populace of Eio de Janeiro assembled in the Campo de Santa 
 Anna on the 6th of April, 1831, and began to call out for the dis- 
 missal of the new ministry, and for the reinstatement of some indi- 
 viduals who had that very morning been dismissed. Dom Pedro I., 
 on being informed of the assemblage and its objects, issued a pro- 
 clamation, signed by himself and the existing ministry, assuring 
 them that the administration was perfect^ constitutional, and that 
 its members would be governed by constitutional principles. A 
 justice of the peace was despatched to read this to the people ; yet 
 scarcely had he concluded, w'hen the document was torn from his 
 hands and trampled under foot. The cry for the reinstatement 
 of the cabinet became louder; the multitude momentarily increased 
 in numbers ; and, about six o'clock in the afternoon, three justices 
 of the peace (in Spanish America it would have been a battalion of 
 soldiers) were despatched to the Imperial residence to demand tha'' 
 the "ministry who had the confidence of the people" — as the late 
 cabinet were designated — should be reappointed. 
 
 The Emperor listened to their requisition, but refused to accede >| 
 to the request. He exclaimed, "I will do every thing for the ( 
 people, but nothing by the people !" j 
 
 No sooner was this answer made known in the Campo, than the 
 most seditious cries were raised, and the troops began to assemble 
 there for the purpose of making common cause with the multi- 
 tude. Further representations were made to the Emperor, but 
 were unavailing. He declared he would suffer death rather than 
 consent to the dictation of the mob. 
 
 The battalion styled the Emperor's, and quartered at Boa Vista, 
 went to join their comrades in the Canajjo, where they aiu-ived 
 about eleven o'clock in the evening; and even the Imperial guard 
 
82 Brazil axd the Brazilians. 
 
 of honor, winch had been summoned to the palace, followed. The 
 populace, already congregated, began to supply themselves with 
 arms from the adjoining barracks. The Portuguese party, in the 
 mean time, judging themselves proscribed and abandoned, durst 
 not even venture into the streets. The Emperor, in these trying 
 moments, is said to have evinced a dignity and a magnanimity 
 unknown in the days of his prosperity. On the one hand, the 
 Empress was weeping bitterly, and aj)prehending the most fatal 
 consequences; on the other, an adjutant from the combined 
 assemblage of the troops and populace was urging him to a final 
 answer. 
 
 Dom Pedro I. had sent for the Intendant of Police, and desired 
 him to seek for Yergueiro, a noble patriot, who had always been a 
 favorite of the people, and who combined moderation with sterling 
 integrity. Vergueiro could not be found. The envoy from the 
 troops and populace urged his Majesty to give him an immediate 
 decision, or excesses would be committed under the idea that he 
 (the envoy) had been either assassinated or made prisoner. The 
 Emperor replied, with calmness and firmness, ''I certainl}'- shall 
 not appoint the ministry which they require: my honor and the 
 Constitution alike forbid it, and 1 would abdicate, or even suifer 
 death, rather than consent to such a nomination." The adjutant 
 started to give this replj' to his general, but he was requested by 
 Dom Pedro (who seemed to be struggling with some grand resolve) 
 to staj" for a final answer. 
 
 Kothing could be heard from Yergueiro. The populace were 
 growing more impatient, and the Emperor was still firmer in his 
 convictions of that which his position and the Constitution required 
 of him in a moment so critical. But at length, like the noble stag 
 of Landseer, singled out by the hounds, he stood alone. Deserted, 
 harassed, irritated, and fiitigued beyond description, with sadness, 
 yet with grace, he yielded to the circumstances, and took the only 
 measure consistent with his convictions and the dignity of his im- 
 perial office. It was two o'clock in the morning when he sat down, 
 without asking the advice of any one, or even informing the mi- 
 nistry of his resolution, and wrote out his abdication in the follow- 
 ing terms : — 
 
 "Availing myself of the right which the Constitution concedes 
 
Abdication of Dom Pedro I. 83 
 
 to me, I declare that I have voluntarily abdicated in favor of my 
 
 dearly-beloved and esteemed son, Dom Pedro de Alcantara. 
 
 " Boa Vista, 7th April, 1831, tenth year "I 
 of the Independence of the Empire." i 
 
 He then rose, and, addressing himself to the messenger from the 
 Campo, said, '<IIere is my abdication: may you be happy! I 
 shall retire to Europe, and leave the country that I have loved 
 deai'ly and that I still love." Tears now choked his utterance, and 
 he hastily retired to an adjoining room, where were the Empress 
 and the English and Prench ambassadors. He afterward dis- 
 missed all his ministers save one, and, in a decree which he dated 
 the 6th of April, proceeded to nominate Jose Bonifacio de Andrada 
 (who, with his brothers, had been permitted to return from exile 
 in 1829) as the guardian to his children. 
 
 It was a striking illustration of the ingratitude with which ho 
 was treated in the hour of misfortune, that from all those upon 
 whom he had conferred titles and riches he was obliged to turn 
 away to the infirm old man whom, at a former period, he had re- 
 jected and cruelly wronged. Pinally, after arranging his house- 
 hold affairs, he embarked in one of the boats of the English line- 
 of-battle ship the Warspite, accompanied by the Empress,* and his 
 eldest daughter, the late Queen of Portugal. 
 A It was fortunate for Brazil that she had enjoyed that which no 
 Spanish-American country had ever experienced, — i.e. a transition- 
 state. She was not hurried from the colonial condition — an era 
 of childhood — into self-government, which can only be the normal 
 state of nations in their manhood. She had, as we have seen, the 
 monarch of Portugal, with all his prestige, to be her first leader in 
 national existence; afterward the son of the king, who, by peculiar 
 circumstances, was for a time the idol of the people, aided Bi-azil 
 in coming to a maturity far better fitted for representative-govern- 
 ment institutions than any of the neighboring states which had 
 achieved their independence at an earlier date. Had the transition 
 been more violent, the permanence of such institutions would have 
 been endangered. ' Dom Pedro was certainly, in the hands of God, 
 
 * The second Empress was the accomplished daughter of Prince Eugene 
 Beauharnais, whom D. Pedro I. had married in 1829. 
 
84 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 a prominent agent in giving to Brazil that form of government 
 whicla this day so wisely rules the Empii'e. 
 
 With all his faults,D. Pedro I. was a great man, and possessed some 
 noble aspirations, coupled with a promptness of action which will 
 be remembered long after his errors have been forgotten. None 
 but a great man could have returned to Europe and have fought 
 the battle of constitutional monarchy against absolutism, as he did 
 in the contest with his brother, Dom Miguel. His brief though 
 chivalric and heroic devotion to the cause of civil and religious 
 freedom in Portugal demands our highest admiration; and the suc- 
 cessful placing of the young Queen Donna Maria upon the throne 
 of that country gave quiet to the kingdom, and was one more 
 triumph in Europe of the liberal over the absolute. 
 
 As time rolls on, the true merits of D. Pedro I. are more recog- 
 nised by the Brazilians. Statues and public monuments are erected 
 to his memory; and, though it may not be wholly applicable, yet 
 there is no fulsome adulation, too common in that Southern clime, 
 when they entitle him '' Washington do Brazil." 
 
 He loved the country of his adoption; and a few days after the 
 memorable night of his abdication, as he gazed for the last time 
 upon the city of Eio de Janeiro, the magnificent bay, and the lofty 
 Organ Mountains, he poured from a full heart the following touch- 
 ing farewell to his son, Dom Pedro II., in which not only is parental 
 tenderness manifest, but a deep solicitude for the land whose des- 
 tiny at one time seemed so closely linked with his own : — 
 
 "My beloved son and my Emperor, very agreeable are the lines 
 which you wrote me. 1 was scarcely able to read them, because 
 copious tears impeded my sight. Now that I am more composed, 
 1 write this to thank you for your letter, and to declare that, as 
 long as life shall last, affection for you will never be extinguished 
 iu my lacerated heart. 
 
 "To leave children, country, and friends is the greatest possible 
 sacrifice; but to bear away honor unsullied, — there can be no greater 
 glory. Ever remember your father; love your country and my 
 country; follow the counsel of those who hav6 the care of your 
 education; and rest assured that the world will admire you, and 
 that I will be filled with gladness at having a son so' worthy of the 
 land of his birth. I retire to Europe : it is necessary for the tran- 
 
Departure of Dom Pedro I. ftft 
 
 quillity of Brazil, and that God may cause her to reach that degree 
 of prosperity for which she is eminently capable. 
 
 "Adieu, my very dear son ! Eeceive the blessing of your affec- 
 tionate father, who departs without the hope of ever seeing you 
 aofain. D. Pedro de Alcantara. 
 
 " On board tbe Warspite frigate, ") 
 April 12, 1831." J 
 
 On the following day D. Pedro I. went on board the English 
 corvette Volage. Before nightfall the Pao de Assucar was cleared, 
 and the ex-Emperor left Brazil forever. 
 
 Having thus briefly narrated the' historj^ of the Empire to the 
 abdication of the first Emperor, we will again turn our attention to 
 Kio de Janeiro, where most of the preceding events occurred. The 
 establishment of the regency, and the various changes and progress 
 under the new monarch, D. Pedro II., will be found in Chapter Xll, 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 THE PRAIA DO FLAMENGO THE THREE-MAN BEETLE SPLENDID VIEWS THE MAN 
 
 WHO CUT DOWN A PALM-TREE xMOONLIGHT EIO "TIOEES" — THE BATHERS — 
 
 GLORIA HILL — EVENING SCENE THE CHURCH — MARRIAGE OF CHRISTIANITY AND 
 
 HEATHENISM A SERMON IN HONOR OF OUR LADY FESTA DA GLORIA THE 
 
 LARANGEIEAS ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO THE SUGAR-LOAF. 
 
 My residence at Eio de Janeiro was on the Praia do Fla- 
 mengo, — a beach so named from its having been in early days 
 frequented by this beautiful bird. Let the reader imagine the 
 beaches of Newport, Ehode Island, or of the battle-renowned 
 Hastings, transferred to the borders of London or New York, so 
 that, by taking omnibus at Charing Cross or Union Square, in 
 fifteen minutes he will be on the hard white sands and in the pre- 
 sence of the huge ocean-waves, and he will have an idea of Pra-ia 
 do riaraengo. Entering one of the Gondolas Flumvienses at the 
 Palace Square, we rattle through various streets until we arrive at 
 the foot of the Gloria, where, if we wish an up-hill ramble, we 
 descend from our vehicle and pass over the picturesque eminence, 
 and are soon cooled by the full blowing sea-breeze; or, if we prefei 
 a more level promenade, we' leave our conveyance at the Eua do 
 Principe. The noisy wheels, and the equally noisy tongues, have 
 hitherto prevented any other sounds from occupying our attention ; 
 but now the majestic thunder of the dashing waves breaks upon 
 our ear. The eye is startled by the foam-crested monsters as they 
 rear up in their strength and seem ready to devour the whole 
 mansion-lined shore in their furious rage. The very ground 
 quakes beneath us, and the air is tremulous with the powerful con- 
 cussion. But no danger is to be apprehended. The coast, a few 
 feet from the sands, is rock-bound, and along the whole beach public 
 and private enterprise have erected strong walls of heavy stone. 
 Sometimes, however, old Neptune has asserted his rights A\ith 
 86 
 
The Three-Man Beetle. 
 
 87 
 
 such tremendous energy, that masses of rock, weighing tons, have 
 been wrested from their fastenings. In May, 1853, a storm pre- 
 vailed for several days, and a strong wind blew in the waves of the 
 ocean with great directness against the protecting walls, and the 
 strife was one of the fiercest that I have ever witnessed in contend- 
 ing nature. As they struck the parapet they dashed eighty feet 
 in height, thus showering and flooding the gay ly -painted residences, 
 and at the same time, in their retreat, undermining the land-side 
 of the wall, so that for hundreds of feet between the Eua da 
 Princeza and the Eua do 
 Pi incline the municipality 
 had a heav}' job for some 
 favorite contractor. (The 
 paving of the streets was 
 a never-failing source of 
 amusement to me during 
 my first year at Eio. Look 
 at the pavers in tlie Eua 
 S. Jose. The paving-ram 
 is the "three-man beetle" 
 of Shakspeare. A trio of 
 slaves are called to their 
 work by a rapid solo exe- 
 cuted with a hammer up- 
 on an iron bar. The three 
 seize the ram: one — the 
 maestro, distinguished by 
 hat — wails forth a ditty, 
 which the others join in choru- 
 at the same time lifting the beeiiL°^^^— ^=- 
 from the ground and bringing it dow^n with 
 a heavy blow. A rest of a few moments 
 occurs, and then the ditty, chorus, and 
 
 thump are resumed: but, as may be imagined, the streets of Eio 
 were by no means rapidly paved.) The damage done to the Praia 
 do Flamengo required more than one year for reparation. A battle 
 between the sea and the land like that of 1853 does not often 
 occur: the rule is peacefulness and amiability, for the huge waves 
 
 THE THREE-MAN BEETLE. 
 
88 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 themselves, that seem to foam so angrily, are only joyous in their 
 giant si:)Ort, and, once touching the myriad sands, kiss them in 
 their gentlest mood, and hasten silently back to their boisterous 
 companions. 
 
 The front of my house looked over the bay to Jurujuba and 
 Praia Grande, and also commanded a view of the long Flamengo 
 Beach, the Babylonia Signal, the lofty Sugar-Loaf, and the entrance 
 to the harbor. Far up the bay were verdant isles, and beyond all 
 towered the lofty Organ Mountains, sometimes gleaming in sun- 
 shine, and sometimes half veiled in mist, but always the grandest 
 feature in the landscape. From my back-windows, on my right, I 
 could see the precipitous southern side of the Gloria, and on my 
 left, beyond the red-tiled roofs, upreared the tall Corcovado, whose 
 Kio face is covered with forests. Beneath me was the garden of 
 my neighbor, a plodding Portuguese from Braga. This individual 
 was originally one of those industrious ignorant poor from the 
 mother-country, who in Brazil and elsewhere, by dint of regularity 
 and economy, acquire pi*operty, but rarely taste. He had a beauti- 
 ful stately palm-tree in the centre of his garden. Night after 
 night have I listened- to the music of the cool land-breeze as it 
 played through the long, feathery leaves. The sight of it was re- 
 freshing when the rays of the noonday sun made the more distant 
 landscape quiver. It was a "thing of beauty," and "a joy," but 
 not "forever." Early one morning I heard the click of an axe; 
 and, rushing to my window, I beheld Sr. M. directing a black, 
 who, with sturd}^ blows, buried the sharp instrument deep into the 
 trunk of the noble tree, and each succeeding stroke made the 
 graceful summit and the clustering fruit jDiteously tremble. 
 
 " The ruthless axe that hew'd its silvered trunk 
 Cut loose the ties that, tendril-like, had bound 
 My love uuto the tree ; and when it sunk. 
 My heart sank with it to the groiu d." 
 
 "AVoodman, spare that tree," 
 
 sung by the voice of an angel, would not have stayed the work ot 
 destruction ; and thus the prince of the tropic forest fell by igno- 
 minious hands. Sr. M., the regicide, went that morning to his 
 toucinho (bacon) and came secca establishment in the Rua do Eosario, 
 
The "Tigers" of Kio de Janeiro. 89 
 
 congratulating himself, as ho stuffed his nostrils with areia ])reta* 
 that he had gained a few more feet of sunshine for his cabbage-bed, 
 by cutting down a palm-tree that a centur}^ would not reproduce. 
 At evening, the view from the balcony in front of my residence 
 was most charming. On a bright night the heavens were illumined 
 by the Southern Cross, by Orion, and other stellar brilliants; and 
 sometimes, when clouds obscured the lesser celestial lights, the 
 bosom of the bay seemed like a sea of fire. But the most glorious 
 nocturnal sight was to watch the full moon rise above the palm- 
 crowned mountains beyond the Bay of San Francisco Xavier. Mild 
 rays of light would herald the approaching queen, and soon her 
 full round form, emerging, threw upon the distant waters of Juru- 
 juba her silver sheen, while the dashing waves that burst along 
 the whole length of the Praia do Flamengo seemed gorgeous 
 wreaths of retreating moonlight. We are in the height of enjoy- 
 ment. Perhaps we murmur 
 
 " On such a night as this," &c., 
 
 and speak something about chaste Dian "moving in meditation, 
 fancy free," when we are suddenly brought to the sad realization 
 that we are in a sublunary sphei'e. We rush from the balcony 
 spasmodically, and instantaneously snatch cologne-bottles, bouquet, 
 ammonia, or any thing that will relieve our olfactories. The 
 tigersf also have opportunities for watching the moon rise. Eight 
 o'clock has ari'ived, and these odoriferous — not to say savage — beasts 
 come stealthily down the Rua do Principe, and for the next two 
 hours make night hideous, not with yells, but with smells which 
 have certainly been expatriated from Arabia Infelix. 
 
 A curious story is generally told the newly-arrived stranger at 
 Eio, of a Fluminensian who on a visit to Paris became exceedingly 
 ill. Every restorative was applied in vain, until a French physician 
 well acquainted with the capital of Brazil was called in, and decided 
 at once that it was impossible to hope for the recovery of the 
 
 * Literally, black sand, — a favorite snuflf made in Bahia. 
 
 ^ The sewerage of Rio was formerly very defective, and slaves, nicknamed 
 " tigers," conveyed each night to the water's edge the accumulated oflFal of the city, 
 and the next tide swept it out to sea. 
 
90 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 patient unless he could breathe again his native air; but, as he 
 could not I'cturn to Eio, the physician instantly prescribed that 
 there should be concocted in the sick-chamber a compound of the 
 most "villanous smells." To make a long story short, the invalid 
 recovered ! 
 
 But at the date of writing this nuisance is much more tolerable 
 than formerly, for hermetically-sealed casks have been introduced, 
 and carts during daylight collect them, and their contents are con- 
 veyed to some very distant point from the city. Soon Eio will have 
 a good sj'Stem of sewerage, the plans for which were laid before 
 the Minister of the Emj^ire in 1854. When this is accomplished, 
 no tropic city will surpass it as an abode both healthful and agree- 
 able. 1865, " Eio City Improvements Company " is doing this work. 
 
 The Praia do Flamengo, saving this drawback when the wind 
 is in a wrong direction, is one of the most delightful suburbs for 
 the residence of a foreigner. One hour after the tigers have 
 finished their labors, the atmosphere is as free from anj^ thing dis- 
 agreeable as if naught but the fragrance of orange-flowers had 
 been wafted from the Gloria and the neighboring gardens; and the 
 morning light shin^js upon a pure white beach. 
 
 For tive months in the year the Praia do Flamengo is the 
 favorite resort of bathers of both sexes. During the bathing- 
 season, (from K^ovember to March,) a lively scene is witnessed 
 every morning. Before the sun is above the mountains a- stream 
 of men, women, and children pour down to enjoy a bath in the 
 clear salt water. The ladies who come from a distance are at- 
 tended by slaves, who bring tents and spread them on the beach 
 for the senhoras, who soon put on their bathing-robes and loose 
 their long black tresses. Men and women, hand in hand, enter the 
 cool, sparkling element, and thus those not skilled in natation 
 resist the force of the huge waves which come toppling in. The 
 senhoras are neatly dressed, in robes made of some dark stuff; but 
 there is not as much coquetry as in a French watering-place, where 
 the ladies study the becoming for the sea as well as for the ball- 
 room. The gentlemen are required by the police-regulations to 
 be decently clad, which still does not impede those who prefer a 
 swimming-bath to the douche of the billows. 
 
 It is a merry sight to behold Brazilian girls and boys evincing for 
 
The Bathers of Praia do Flamengo. 91 
 
 onco some activity, — nmnirig on tlio saud, and screaming with 
 pleasure whenever a heavier wave than before has rollctl over a 
 party and sends them reeling to the beach. The prostrate bathers 
 drive their feet convulsively into the sand to prevent being carried 
 back by the receding breakers. Now and then some mischief- 
 makers shout '* Shark ! shark I" and away dash the senhoras to 
 the shore, to be laughed at by the urchins who raised the cry. 
 There are some traditionary talcs about these rough-skinned 
 cannibals, but I never heard a well-authenticated instance of a 
 repast furnished by the bathers of Praia do Flamengo to the 
 dreaded " wolf of the seas." 
 
 By seven o'clock the sun is high, and all the busy white throng 
 have departed. Here and there, however, may be seen a curly 
 head popping up and down among the waves, its woolly covering 
 defying the fear of coup de soleil. The negresses that accompany 
 the ladies generally enter the water at the same time as their 
 mistresses. On moonlight nights the sea is alive with black 
 specks, which are the capita of the slaves in the vicinity, who 
 splash and scream and laugh to their hearts' content. They all 
 swim remarkably well, and it is pleasant to hear their cheerful 
 voices sounding as merrily as if they knew not a sorrow. 
 
 The people of Rio are fond of bathing, and on this account are 
 called cariocas, which some translate "ducks." Many walk miles 
 to enjoy it. There is a floating bath in the harbor, not far from 
 Hotel Pharoux, for those whose courage is great enough to brave 
 the element which is there called sea-water, but which a truthful 
 narrator, previous to the imj^roved sewerage, would stigmatize by 
 another name. 
 
 Nor are the bipeds the only animals that derive benefit from the 
 ablutions on Praia do Flamengo. The horses and mules have 
 allotted to them a certain portion of the beach, where at an early 
 hour they are bathed and brushed. It is a comfort to know that 
 the poor creatures have this chance of cleanliness; otherwise they 
 would suffer greatly from the laziness of their keepers. Gentlemen 
 who cai'e for their horses endeavor to procure English grooms, for 
 a black is proverbially a bad care-taker for any animal. The 
 beautiful horses imported at great exj^ense from the Cape of Good 
 Hope are soon destroyed under the hands of the negroes. It is 
 
92 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 considered that the climate of Brazil is unfavorable to them, and 
 one can hardly believe that these pamj^ered, delicate animals 
 are of the same race, half English, half Arabian, which at the Cape 
 of Good Hope will endure a journey of sixty or seventy miles a 
 day without other refreshment than a feed of oats and a roll on 
 the sand.* For all useful j)urj)Oses the horses of the country are 
 better, but they are not so swift or graceful as the imported animals. 
 
 It was but a few paces fi'om my front-door to the southern 
 entrance of the Gloria. Here, when the surf was not too high, 
 boats could land, and often were our evenings enlivened by the 
 presence of some of the intelligent officers from the men-of-war 
 whose station was beyond the Fortress Villegagnon. 
 
 Once within the gateway at the foot of the hill, we behold a 
 narrow, level strip of ground, occupied by one or two secluded 
 residences and a beautiful private flower-garden. The base of the 
 black rock which rises perpendicularly on the side facing the sea is 
 hidden by large waving banana-trees and overhanging creepers. 
 The diversified summit of the hill is checkered with every evidence 
 of city and country agreeably blended. Narrow paths wind 
 around the hill at different altitudes, leading to the many beautiful 
 residences and gardens by which it is covered to the summit. On 
 either side of the paths are seen dense hedges of flowering mi- 
 mosas, lofty palms, and the singular cashew-tree, with its bottle- 
 shaped, refreshing fruit, and occasionally other large trees, hung 
 with splendid parasites, while throughout the scene there prevails 
 a quiet and a coolness which could scarcely be anticipated within 
 the precincts of a city situated beneath a tropical sun. 
 
 The prettiest residence on the hill was that of the British Consul, 
 Mr. John J. C. Westwood, — a gentleman whom I always found 
 most read}^ to co-operate in any work of charity or benevolence 
 brought to his notice. In 1864 Mr. Westwood died. 
 
 Among the dwellers on the Gloria were two families, (English and 
 Swiss,) who in their tastes and accomplishments were far beyond 
 the mere shopkeeping class so often found in a foreign land. In 
 
 * When Napoleon was at St. Helena he was supplied with these horses, and 
 their fire exactly suited his style of riding. The old English generals whose duty 
 it Tras to accompany their " perverse prisoner" had often reason to complain of 
 the pace of the Cape horses. 
 
EVENTNa-SCENE ON THE GLORIA. 
 
 tlicir pleasant society one was often compensated for the homo- 
 circlo left fur over the billow. The Englishman was an amateur- 
 naturalist of the very first ability, while both families possessed 
 the best periodical and standard literature of England and of 
 France. After the fatigues of the day it was a delightful rcci-ea- 
 tion to spend the even- 
 ing amid such compa- 
 nions and surrounded 
 by such glorious sce- 
 nery. On many moon- 
 light evenings I could 
 enter into the feelings 
 entertained by Dr. Kid- 
 der years before, and, 
 as he expressed it, 
 could realize "the en- 
 chantment of an even- 
 inff-scene so felicitous- 
 ly described by Von 
 Martius." 
 
 "A delicate transpa- 
 rent mist hangs over 
 the country; the moon 
 shines brightly amid 
 heavy and singularly- 
 grouped clouds. The 
 outlines of the objects 
 illuminated by it are 
 clear and well defined, 
 
 while a magic twilight seems to remove from the eye those which 
 are in the shade. Scarce a breath of air is stirring, and the neigh- 
 boring mimosas, that have folded up their leaves to sleep, stand 
 motionless beside the dark crowns of the mangueiras, the jaca- 
 tree, and the ethereal jambos. Sometimes a sudden wind arises, 
 and the juiceless leaves of the cashew rustle; the richly-flowered 
 grumijama and pitanga let drop a fragrant shower of snow-white 
 blossoms; the crowns of the majestic palms wave slowly above the 
 silent roof which they overhang like a symbol of peace and tran- 
 
 FRUIT AND NUT OF THE CASHEW-TREE. 
 
94 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 quillity. Shrill cries of the cicada, the grasshopper, and tree-frog 
 make an incessant hum, and produce by their monotony a pleasing 
 melancholy. At intervals different balsamic odors fill the air, and 
 flowers, alternately unfolding their leaves to the night, delight the 
 senses with their perfume, — now the bowers of paullinias, or the 
 neighboring orange-grove, — then the thick tufts of the eupatoria, 
 or the bunches of the flowering palms, suddenly bursting, disclose 
 their blossoms, and thus maintain a constant succession of fra- 
 grance; while the silent vegetable world, illuminated by swarms 
 of fire-flies as by a thousand moving stars, charms the night by its 
 delicious odors. Brilliant lightnings play incessantly in the horizon 
 and elevate the mind in joyful admiration to the stars, which, glow- 
 ing in solemn silence in the firmament, fill the soul with a presen- 
 timent of still sublimer wonders." 
 
 Often, while enjoying the scene which the great German natural- 
 ist has so eloquently depicted, I was called away from my medita- 
 tions by the clangor of the bells in the tower of the Gloria Church. 
 Though the worship of Him who made the beautiful nature around 
 me should be ever more elevating than the mere contemplation of 
 the grand and wonderful in the material world, yet the sound of 
 those bells filled me with painful reflections. Whenever I entered 
 that pretty church of Nossa Senhora da Gloria, whenever I gazed 
 upon the kneeling throng and on the evidences of a corrupted 
 Christianity, I could not believe that God was worshipped "in 
 spirit and in truth." 
 
 In the interior, the octagonal walls are lined for several feet 
 with large Butch tiles, representing landscapes and scenes con- 
 nected with classic heathenism. Actseon and his dogs start the 
 timid deer, or pursue the flying hare; Cupid, too, with arrows in 
 hand, joins the sport. Over the chief altar Nossa Senhora da 
 Gloria, robed like a fashionable lady in silks and laces, looks down 
 upon the scene beneath. She has received many jewels from her 
 devotees, and no gem is esteemed too costly to win her favor. 
 She wears brilliant finger-rings, and diamond buttons fasten the 
 sleeves of her gown. Her bosom and ears are graced with diamond 
 necklaces and rich pendants. An immense diamond brooch 
 sparkles on her breast: this was vowed to the Virgin by Bonna 
 Francisca, the consort of Prince de Joinville, in prospective compen- 
 
The Marriage of Heathenism and Christianity. 95 
 
 sation for the restoration of Her IIif):hness'8 health. The flowiiiir 
 curls that cluster around Our Lady's bi'ow are also offerings, clipped 
 by some anxious mother from the glossy locks of a faVorite child.* 
 
 Let us enter the vestry in the rear of the church. Here we 
 behold a few specimens of what may be seen in every church in 
 Brazil, and which was formerly to be witnessed in almost every 
 heathen temple in old Italia before the days of Constantine the 
 Great. In the many particulars in which we can trace with 
 certainty the marriage between Christianity and heathenism, none 
 is more curious than the system of ex votos. The ancients who 
 were affected v.ith ophthalmia, rheumatism, boils, defective limbs, 
 &c. &e., prayed to their gods and goddesses for recovery, and at the 
 same time offered on the shrine of the favorite divinity, or sus- 
 pended near the altar, votive tablets, upon which were inscribed a 
 description of the disease and the name of the invalid. Grateful 
 acknowldgements and miraculous cures were also thus made 
 public for the edification of the faithful worshippers and for the 
 confusion of the inci'edulous. Thus, also, in Brazil every church 
 is filled with votive tablets, telling of wonderful cures by Nossa 
 Senhora and innumerable saints with very hard names. 
 
 The pious pagans, however, did not limit themselves to mere 
 wi'itten thanksgivings and descriptions of the parts affected, but 
 hung up in their temples the handiwork of their mechanicians 
 and artists, — representations in painting and in sculpture of hands, 
 legs, eyes, and other portions of the afflicted body. In the Gloria 
 Church also may be seen any quantity of wax models of arms, 
 feet, eyes, noses, bi-easts, &c. &c. Where the disease is internal, 
 and the seat of pain cannot well be modelled, the subject is gene- 
 
 ^ " This wooden deosa has a splendid head of hair. It is the last of a series of 
 
 rapes of locks committed on her account. When the brother of Sr. P. L a, a 
 
 young gentleman of my acquaintance, was seven years old, his hair reached more 
 than half-way down his back. His mother, having great devotion to Nossa 
 Senhora, sheared off the silken spoils, and offered them as an act of faith to her, 
 little thinking how literally she was copying the practice of heathen dames. The 
 locks were sent to a French hairdresser, who wrought them into a wig. It was 
 then brought to the church and laid in due form before Our Lady, when the priest 
 reverently removed her old wig and covered her with the flowing tresses of the 
 Larangeiras Absalom." — Ewbank's Sketches of Life in Brazil. 
 
96 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ralized by representing a bedridden patient: peril by sea i.s 
 represented by a sbipwreck. All proclaim one stor}^, — viz. : the 
 miraculous cure wrought by Nossa Senhora and other saints, 
 through the ex voto offering. 
 
 We have very early instances of the same mode of procedure 
 among the heathen. The lords of the Philistines, who had seized 
 in battle the ark of the Covenant, were with their people smitten ; 
 and, when returning the ark to the children of Israel, the pagan 
 Philistines made golden ex votos to accompany their dreadful cap- 
 tive: (1 Sam. vi. 4.) 
 
 Mr. Ewbank, who appears to have devoted much attention to 
 comparative archaeology and mythology, makes the following 
 quotation from Tavernier, one of the early Eoman Catholic travel- 
 lers in India: — "When a pilgrim goes to a jDagod for the cure of 
 disease, he takes with him a figure of the member affected, made 
 of gold, silver, or copper, and offers it to his god." In the second 
 volume of Montfaucon (also a Roman Catholic writer) there is a 
 long account of ex votos, "some of which were offered to Neptune 
 for safe voyages, Serapis for health, Juno Lucina for children and 
 happy deliveries : pictures of sick patients in bed, and eyes, heads, 
 limbs, and tablets without number, were offered to Esculapius and 
 other popular medical saints among the heathen." 
 
 This sad sj:)ectacle of modern heathenism at Eio de Janeiro is 
 somewhat ameliorated by the fact that, whenever the ex votos are 
 found in a church consecrated to ISTossa Senhora or to some saint, 
 the offerings are mostly brown and dusty with age. Occasionally 
 a fresh pair of eyes or breasts are to be seen, but new wax models 
 are less frequent in the caj)ital than formerly. There must, how- 
 ever, be a demand for them from some portion of the Empire; for 
 one-third of the wax and tallow chandlers (where these objects are 
 obtained) at Eio have an ex voto branch in their manufactories. 
 At Tijuca, Mr. M., a planter, informed me that he had just seen one 
 of his neighbors whose arm had been so disabled that its use was 
 lost, until he was advised by some one of the living "saints" to 
 go to a chandlery and purchase a wax model of his unruly mem- 
 ber to offer to the Virgin. Suffice to say the arm was completely 
 restored. 
 
 On the Sabbath I often passed over the Gloria Hill on my return 
 
A Sermon in Honor of Our Lady. 97 
 
 from the yhipping or ft-om the hospitals, where I had been holding 
 service or visitiu"; the sick. Durin"; a festival I mounted the 
 hill as usual, and as 1 walked beneath the broad platform upon 
 which the church stands, I heard strains of music that were most 
 unlike the solemn chants and the grand anthems of the Eomish 
 uumniunion. They were polkas and dances, performed by some 
 mi'.itury baud that had been hired for the occasion ! I have I'e- 
 cently been informed that this abuse, as well as some others, has 
 been remedied through the direct interposition of the Emperor. 
 
 Dr. Kidder thus gives an account of some of the religious exer- 
 cises at the Gloria, which is applicable to Brazilian church-services 
 in general : — 
 
 " Preaching is not know^n among the weekly services of the 
 church; but I twice listened to sermons delivered here on special 
 occasions. A small elevated pulpit is seen on the eastern side of 
 the edifice, and is entered from a hall between the outer and inner 
 walls of the building. In this, at one of the services which 
 occurred during Lent, the preacher made his appearance after 
 mass was over. The people at once faced round to the left from 
 the principal altar, where their attention had been previously 
 directed. The harangue was passionatelj' fervid. In the midst of 
 it the speaker paused, and, elevating in his hand a small wooden 
 crucifix, fell on his knees, and began praj'ing to it as his Loi'd and 
 Master. The people, most of whom sat in rows upon the floor, 
 sprinkled with leaves, bowed down their heads, and seemed to 
 join him in his devotions. He then proceeded, and, when the 
 sermon was ended, all fell to beating their breasts, as if in imita- 
 tion of tlie publican of old. 
 
 "In the second instance, the discourse was at the annual festa 
 of Our Lady of the Gloria, and was entirely eulogistic of her cha- 
 racter. One of the most popular preachers had been procured, 
 and he seemed quite conscious of having a theme which gave him 
 unlimited scope. He dealt in nothing less than superlatives : — 
 ' The glories of the Most Holy Virgin were not to be compared 
 with those of creatures, but only with those of the Creator.' 
 'She did every thing which Christ did but to die with him.' 
 'Jesus Christ was independent of the Father, but not of his 
 mother.' Such sentiments, rhapsodically strung together, left no 
 
98 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 place for the mention of repentance toward God or faith toward 
 the Lord Jesus Christ throughout the whole sermon." 
 
 In 1852, on the occasion of a very solemn festival in honor of 
 Our Lady, one of the most eloquent padres of Eio was ci,lled upon 
 to pronounce the discourse in the Church of Our Lad}^ of Mount 
 Carmel, which adjoins the Lnpcrial Chapel. In the evening of the 
 day referred to, a Eoman Catholic gentleman gave me an account 
 of the sermon, one sentence of which I translate for the benefit of 
 the reader: — "The magi of the East and the kings of the Orient 
 came on ijainful journeys from distant lands, and, prostrating 
 themselves at the feet of Nossa Senhora, offered her their crowns 
 for the bestowment of her hand; but she rejected them all, and 
 gave it to the obscure, the humble but pious St. Joseph !" 
 
 During a festival, the faithful (and othei's, for that matter) can 
 obtain any amount of pious merchandise, in the shape of medidas 
 and hentinhos, — pictures, images, and medals of saints and of the 
 Pope, &c. &c. These are "exchanged" — never sold — in the 
 church, and fetch round prices. A medida is a ribbon cut the 
 exact height of the presiding Lady or saint of the place of wor- 
 ship. These, worn next to the skin, cure all manner of diseases, 
 and gratify the various desires of the happy purchasers. There 
 are certain colors esteemed appropriate to different JSTossas Senhoras; 
 and once I ascertained the important fact, that, when some pious 
 Fluminense has made a vow to Nossa Senhora, great care must be 
 taken not to permit the wrong color to be used. A lady-member 
 of my family, wishing to make a small present to one of her friends, 
 — a young Eoman Catholic mother, — sent a neat pink dress for the 
 little one; but the package was soon returned, with many regrets 
 that the kind offering could not be received, for a vow was upon 
 the mother which had particular reference to her child. She had 
 vowed to a Nossa Senhora (whose favorite colors were like the 
 driven snow and the heavens above) that if her boy recovered from 
 his sickness he should be clothed in nothing but white and blue for 
 the next six months ! At the end of that time, it was added, the 
 present could be accepted. 
 
 Bcntinhos are two little silken pads with painted figures of Our 
 Lady, &c. upon them. These are worn next to the skin, in pairs, 
 neing attached by ribbons, one bentinho resting upon the bosom 
 
Brazilian Pyrotechny. 99 
 
 and the othoi upon the back. These are most efficacious for 
 protecting the wearer from invisible foes both before and 
 behind. 
 
 I visited the Gloria Church during one of these festivals, and 
 the " exchange" of pictures and medidas was immense. The price, 
 ho'vever, was not always paid in money. I found that wax 
 candles offered to the Virgin were esteemed equal to copper or 
 silver coin. The heat and crowd of the church on this occasion 
 were such that I sought the esplanade in front; and the contrast 
 of the cool night-air and the sweet odors that wafted up from the 
 gardens beneath was as agreeable as refreshing. 
 
 The multitude, I soon ascertained, were not confined to the 
 church. Groups were collected around the fountain, and thou- 
 sands were congregated in the ascent called the Ladeira da Gloria, 
 or whiling away their time by eating doces, smoking, and con- 
 versing in the Largo. They were awaiting the fireworks which 
 were to close the festival. The Brazilians are exceedingly fond 
 of p3'rotechny, and every festival begins and ends with a display 
 of rockets and wheels. The grand finale surpasses any thing in 
 this line that is ever witnessed in North America; and I doubt 
 if there is a single country in the world, except China, whei-e 
 pyrotechny is so splendid and varied as in Brazil. Not only are 
 there wheels, cones, suns, moons, stars, triangles, polygons, vases, 
 baskets, arches with letters and the usual devices known among 
 us, but, elevated upon high poles, are human figures as large as 
 life, I'epresenting wood-sawyers, rope-dancers, knife-grinders, bal- 
 let-girls, and whatever vocation of life calls for especial activity. 
 By ingenious mechanism these effigies go through their various 
 pai-ts with remarkable and lifelike celerity. There is nothing 
 gauche. The figures are well dressed, even to the gloves of the 
 represented ladies. The wood-sawyer makes the sparks fl}^ and 
 the knife-grinder whirls a wheel that sends forth a perfect "glory" 
 of scintillations ! 
 
 There is no festa throughout the year that is more enjoyed by 
 the pleasure-loving Fluminenses than that of Nossa Senhora da 
 Gloria. The evening before, the usual number of rockets are sent 
 up, — probably to arouse the attention of the Virgin to the honor 
 that is about to be paid her on the following day, lest, in the mul- 
 
100 Braz;il and the Brazilians. 
 
 tiplicity of her cares, she should forget the approach of this anni- 
 versary ; for she must have a very wonderful memory if she call 
 to mind each fete-day at which her esjiecial company is requested, 
 seeing that eveiy fourth church in Eio is dedicated to a Nossa 
 Senhora of some kind. 
 
 Early on the morning of this festival, the approach to the white 
 temple is crowded with devotees in their gayest attire; for there 
 is nothing in this celebration that requires the usual sombre black. 
 The butterflies themselves, and the golden-breasted humming-birds 
 that flit among the opening jessamines and roses around, are not 
 more brilliant than the senhoras and senhoritas of all ages who 
 flutter about, robed in the brightest colors of the rainbow, and 
 with their long black tresses elaborately dressed and adorned with 
 natural flowers, among which the carnation is pre-eminent. They 
 enter the church to obtain the benefit of the mass; and happy they 
 who have strength and lungs and nerve enough to force a way 
 up to the altar through the crowds whom nature has clad in per- 
 petual mourning. Once arrived at this desired sjiot, they squat 
 upon the floor, and, after saying their prayers and hearing mass, 
 they amuse themselves with chatting to the circle of beaux who, 
 on such occasions, are always in close attendance upon the fair 
 objects of their adoration. For be it remai'ked that most of the 
 praying, as in France, is done by the women; and probably for that 
 reason each man is anxious to secui-e an interest in the affections 
 of some fair devotee, in order that she may supply his own lack 
 of zeal. 
 
 After patiently displaying their charms and their diamonds for 
 some hours, a thrill of excitement passes through the throng, and 
 salvos of artillery announce the approach of the Imperial party, 
 who, when the weather permits, leave their carriages at the foot 
 of the hill, and slowly ascend the steep path that leads to the 
 church. This has been previously strewn with flowers and wild- 
 cinnamon-leaves. 
 
 On some occasions, troups of young girls in white, from the dif- 
 ferent boarding-schools, are in waiting at the top, to kiss the hands 
 of their Majesties. This is the prettiest part of the exhibition, — 
 the Emperor, with his stately form, and the Empress, with her 
 good-humored smile, passing slowly through the lines of bright- 
 
The Larangeiras. 101 
 
 ejed girls who arc not without a slight idea of their own prominent 
 part in the graceful group. 
 
 After the ceremonial in the chapel, the Imperial party descends 
 to the house of Senhor Bahia, a rich Brazilian banker, who has 
 a fine house hard by, where a splendid collation is prepared, 
 and the evening is terminated by fireworics and a ball. The 
 pyrotechnic display is on the road opposite his house; and woe 
 betide any unfortunate wight who would induce a spirited horse to 
 pass that way. There is no other road into the city from Botafogo; 
 so that he may as well take a philosophical resolution, and enjoy, as 
 best he may, thc'Catherine wheels and the fiery maidens pirouetting 
 in the midst of surrounding sparks. 
 
 A distinguishing feature of these gatherings is, that, amid all the 
 thousands present, no scene of rudeness or quarrel is ever witnessed. 
 Perfect good-nature reigns around; and if, in the inevitable pressure, 
 any person is trodden upon or jostled, an instant apology is made, 
 with the hat removed from the head. As water is the only beverage, 
 there is nothing to inflame the bad passions of the multitude. The 
 slaves ai'e not merely respectful in their manners, but evince a 
 joyous sense of liberty for the day; and they ambitiously seek the 
 best places for sight-seeing, which their less active masters in vain 
 wish to attain. 
 
 At midnight all is over, and the quiet stars shine down upon 
 the church -crowned and verdure-robed Gloria. 
 
 When we descend the Ladeira da Gloria and turn to our left, we 
 are in a finely -paved — and in some places macadamized — thorough- 
 fare called the Catete, a wide and important street, leading from 
 the city to Botafogo. About half-way between the town and the 
 last-mentioned suburb, we enter the Largo Machado, which is the 
 commencement of the Larangeiras, or the valley of orange-groves. 
 There were formerly many trees of the Laranga da terra,'^ or native 
 orange, in this lovely spot; and, although the most of them have 
 disappeared, their places have been filled with their sweeter rela- 
 tives, the Laranga selecta, and the night-air is laden with the rich 
 perfume of their flowers. Some of the prettiest gardens — which, 
 
 * GardDer is of the opinion that the Laranga da terra, or bitter orange, is not 
 indigenous. 
 
102 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 instead of thick stone walls, are surrounded by open iron railing 
 — and the most beautiful residences in Rio nestle in this quiet 
 valley. 
 
 A shallow but limpid brook gurgles along a wide and deep ravine, 
 lying between two precipitous spurs of the Corcovado Mountain. 
 Passing up its banks, you see scores of lavandeiras, or washer- 
 women, standing in the stream and beating their clothes upon the 
 
 boulders of rock which lie 
 scattered along the bot- 
 tom. Many of these 
 washerwomen go from the 
 city early in the morning, 
 carrj'ing their huge bun- 
 dles of soiled linen on 
 their heads, and at even- 
 ing return with them, puri- 
 fied in the stream and 
 bleached in the sun. Fires 
 are smoking in various 
 places, where they cook 
 their meals; and groups 
 \\\ iiTN of infant children are seen 
 ^ \^^y///S\i pl^yiiig around, some of 
 :^^^lji/ whom are large enough 
 
 have toddled after 
 
 to 
 
 their mothers; but most 
 of them have been carried 
 there on the backs of 
 the heavily-burdened ser- 
 vants. Female slaves, of every occupation, may be seen carry- 
 ing about their children as on page 167; but the lavandeiras no 
 longer work in a semi-nude state. 
 
 One is reminded by their appearance of the North American 
 Indian pappoose riding on the mother's back; but the diflcrent 
 methods of fastening the respective infants in permanent positions 
 pi"oduce very different effects. The straight board on which the 
 young Indian is lashed gives him his proverbially-erect form; but 
 the curved posture in which the young negro's legs are bound 
 
 LAVANDEIRAS. 
 
The Ascension of the Corcovado. 103 
 
 around the sides of tlio mother often entails upon liim crooked 
 limbs for life. 
 
 Up the valley of the Larungeiras is a mineral spring, which at 
 certain seasons of the year is much frequented. It is denominated 
 Agoa Ferrea, — a name indicating the chalybeate properties of the 
 water. Near this locality you may enter the road which leads up 
 the Corcovado. 
 
 An excursion to the summit of this mountain is one of the first 
 that should be made by every visitor to Eio. You may ascend on 
 horseback within a short distance of the summit; and the jaunt 
 should be commenced early in the morning, while the air is cool 
 and balmy, and while the dew yet sparkles on the foliage. The 
 inclination is not very steep, although the path is narrow and 
 uneven, having been w^orn by descending rains. The greater part 
 of the mountain is covered with a dense forest, which varies in 
 character with the altitude, but everywhere abounds in the most 
 rare and luxurious plants. Toward the summit large trees become 
 rare, while bamboos and ferns are more numerous. Flowering 
 shrubs and parasites extend the whole way. 
 
 I once made the excursion in company with a few fi-iends. 
 Our horses were left at a rancho not far from the summit, and 
 a few minutes' walk brought us through the thicket. Above this 
 the rocks are covered with only a thin soil, and here and there a 
 shrub nestling in the crevices. What appears like a point from 
 below is in reality a bare rock, of sufficient dimensions to admit 
 of fifty persons standing on it to enjoy the view at once, although 
 its sides, save that from which it is reached, are extremely pre- 
 cij^itous. In order to protect persons against accidents, iron posts 
 have been inserted, and railings of the same material extend 
 around the edge of the rock. This has been done at the expense 
 of the Government. If we except this slight indication of art, all 
 around exhibits the wildness and sublimity of nature. 
 
 The elevation of the mountain — twenty-three hundred and six 
 feet — is just sufficient to give a clear bird's-eye view of one of the 
 richest and most extensive prospects the human eye ever beheld. 
 The harbor and its islands; the forts, and the shipping of the bay; 
 the whole city, from S. Christovao to Botafogo; the botanical 
 garden, the Lagoa das Freitas, the Tijuca, the Gavia, and the 
 
104 Brazil and the Erazilians. 
 
 Sugar-Loaf Mountains, the islands outside the harbor, the wide- 
 rolling ocean on the one hand and the measureless circle of 
 mountains and shores on the other, were all expanded around and 
 beneath us. The atmosphere was beautifully transparent, and I 
 gazed and gazed M'ith increasing interest upon the lovely, the 
 magnificent panorama. 
 
 From the sides of this mountain various small streamlets flow 
 toward the Larangeiras. Bj^ means of artificial channels, these are 
 thrown together to supply the great aqueduct. In descending, we 
 followed this remarkable watercourse until we entered the city, at 
 the grand archway leading from the Hill of Santa Theresa to that 
 of San Antonio, as depicted on page 63, Nor is this section of the 
 route less interesting to those fond of nature. From time to time 
 negroes are met, waving their nets in chase of the gorgeous butter- 
 flies and other insects which may be seen fluttering across the 
 path and nestling in the surrounding flowers and foliage. 
 
 Many slaves were formei'ly trained from early life to collect and 
 preserve specimens in entomology and botany, and, by following 
 this as a constant business, gathered immense collections. These 
 are favorite haunts for amateur naturalists, who, if imbued with the 
 characteristic enthusiasm of their calling, may still find them as 
 interesting as did Yon Spix and Yon Martins, whose learned works 
 upon the natural history of Brazil may be compared with those 
 of Humboldt and Bonpland in Mexico and Colombia. 
 
 The aqueduct is a vaulted channel of mason-work, passing some- 
 times above and sometimes beneath the surface of the ground, with 
 a gentle declivity, and air-holes at given distances. The views to 
 be enjoyed along the line of this aqueduct are, beyond measure, 
 interesting and varied. Now j^ou look down at jonr right upon 
 the valley of the Larangeiras, the Largo do Machado, the Catete, 
 the mouth of the harbor, and the ocean; anon, verging toward the 
 other declivit}^ of the hill, j^ou may survey the Campo St. Anna, 
 the Cidade Nova, the splendid suburb of Engenho Yelho, and, in 
 the distance, the upper extremity of the bay, surrounded by moun- 
 tains and dotted by islands. At length, just above the Convent 
 of Santa Theresa, you will pause to contemplate a fine view of the 
 town. But for the Hill of S. Antonio and the Morro do Castcllo 
 the greater poi'tion of the city would here be seen at once. The 
 
 ' 
 
liECOLI ECTIONS OF Sr. DOMINGOS LoPEZ. 105 
 
 glimpse, however, that is perceptible between these eminences Is 
 perhaps sufficient, and the eye rests with peculiar pleasure upon 
 this unusually-happy combination of the objects of nature and 
 of art. 
 
 Probably no city in the world can compare with Rio de Janeiro 
 in the variet}' of sublime and interesting scenery in its immediate 
 vicinity. The semicircular Bay of Botafogo and the group of 
 mountains surrounding it form one of the most picturesque views 
 ever beheld. We are on the Corcovado; before us stands the 
 far-famed Sugar-Loafj and far behind us appears an immense 
 truncated cone of granite. When seen at a distance, this mountain 
 is thought to resemble the foretopsail of a vessel, and hence its 
 name, the Gavia. Between this and the Sugar-Loaf remains a 
 group of three, so much jesembling each other as to justify the 
 name of Dons Irmaos, or Two Brothers. The head of one of the 
 brothers stretches above his juniors, and also looks proudly down 
 upon the ocean which laves his feet. At the base of the Sugar-Loaf 
 is Praia Vermelha, a fertile beach, named from the reddish color of 
 the soil. It extends to the fortress of S. Joao on the right, and to 
 that of Praia Vermelha on the left, of the Sugar-Loaf. The latter 
 is a prominent station for new recruits to the army; and many are 
 the poor Indians from the Uj^per Amazon who have here been 
 drilled to the use of arms. This also was the scene of a bloody 
 revolt of the German soldiery in the time of the First Emperor, 
 
 The beach of the ocean outside the Sugar-Loaf is called Copa 
 Cabana. A few scattered huts of fishermen and a few ancient 
 dwellings belonging to proprietors of the land accommodate all the 
 present inhabitants of this locality. Once it used to be far more 
 populous, according to the recollections of Senhor Domingos 
 Lopez, — a garrulous sexagenarian with whom Dr. Kidder became 
 acquainted on one of his visits there, and who detailed to him the 
 monstrous changes that had transpired since his boyhood, when 
 the site of S. Francisco de Paula was a frog-pond, and all the city 
 beyond it not much better, although built up to some extent with 
 low, mean houses. The sand of this beach is white, like the surf 
 which dashes upon it. Whoever wishes to be entertained by the 
 low but heavy thunder of the waves, as they roll in from the green 
 Atlantic, cannot find a more fitting spot; and he that has once 
 
106 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 enjoyed the sublime companionship of the waves, that here rush to 
 ■pay their homage at his feet, ^Aill long to revisit the scene. 
 
 In beholding the Sugar-Loaf for the first time, I was seized with 
 an almost irresistible desire to ascend its sum^iit. This wish was 
 never carried into action. As my country nien, however, have 
 shared largely in this species of ambition, I shall be more ex- 
 cusable. 
 
 It is said by some, that a Yankee midshipman first conceived 
 and executed the hazardous project of climbing its rocky sides. 
 Nevei'theless, this honor is disputed by others in behalf of an 
 Austrian midshipman. Belonging to whom that ma}^, it was re- 
 served for Donna America Vespucci, in 1838, to be the first lady 
 who should attempt the exploit ; but the Donna failed to accomplish 
 what her ambitious mind determined. Several persons of both sexes 
 have, since this failure, made the attempt, and, at the peril of life 
 and limb, some have succeeded in scrambling to the verj' top. On 
 the 4th of July, 1851, Burdell, an American* dentist, accompanied 
 by his wife, a French coiffeur et sa dame, and a young Scotch- 
 woman, made the ascent. From the latter I received an account 
 of that adventurous night, when at times they seemed ready to 
 dash into the foaming ocean beneath. Their toil and danger were 
 of no small magnitude, and, when success finally crowned their 
 foolhardiness, thej^ sent up rockets and built a bonfire, to the asto- 
 nishment of the gazing Fluminenses. The last ascent of this sin- 
 gular mountain, which is almost as steep as Bunker Hill Monument, 
 was performed by a young American, who, without a companion 
 or the usual appliances and skill of a seafiiring man, worked his 
 way up to the very summit, under the full blaze of a burning sun. 
 He was, however, so disgusted with his adventure, that he begged 
 his friends never to mention the subject. 
 
 Note for 1SG6. — Great amelioration in the condition of the streets has taken 
 place since 1855. This is owing to a better system of paving, the stone for tbo 
 pavement being quarried from the liills that abound in the city. The Rio City 
 Improvements Company, against great natural obstacles, are now prosecuting the 
 sewerage of the capital, whicli, when completed, will render Rio the finest city of 
 the tropics. Nor should we overlook the Government works and docks, under 
 the direction of Charles Neat, Esq., in front of the Custom-House, on the island 
 of Cobras, and elsewhere. One of Mr. Neat's efficient aids is Mr. Bullman, of 
 Newcastle, England, to whom I am indebted for meteorological notes. 
 
CHAPTER Yll. 
 
 BRCTIIERHOODS HOSPITAL OF SAN FRANCISCO DE PAULA THE LAZARTTS AND THE 
 
 RATTLESNAKE MISERICORDIA — SAILORS' HOSPITAL AT JURir.HTBA FOUNDLING- 
 HOSPITAL BECOLHIMEXTO FOR ORPHAN-GIULS NEW MISERICORDIA \SYLUM 
 
 FOR THE INSANE JOs£ D'aNCHIETA, FOUNDER OF THE MISERICORDIA 
 
 MONSTROUS LE'JENDS OF THE ORDER FRIAR JOHN d' ALMEIDA CHURCHES 
 
 CONVENTS. 
 
 To turn from the contemplation of nature to the works of man 
 is not always the most pleasing transition ; and Bisliop lleber's 
 well-known and oft-cited lines — 
 
 " Though every prospect pleases, 
 And only man is vile" — 
 
 seem doubly true in South America, where the grand and the 
 beautiful are so wonderfull}^ profuse and in such strong contrast 
 with the shortcomings of earth's last -and highest creature. But 
 the philanthropy and practical Christianity embodied in the hos- 
 pitals of Eio de Janeiro are in happy dissimilitude with the 
 mummeries and puerilities which the Raman Catholic Church has 
 fostered in Brazil. These institutions, in their extent and effi- 
 ciency, command our highest respect and admiration. 
 
 Among the hospitals of the capital there are a number which 
 belong to different Irmandades or Brotherhoods. These fraternities 
 are not unlike the beneficial societies of England and the United 
 States, though on a more extended scale. They are generally 
 composed of laymen, and are denominated Third Orders, — as, fcr 
 example, Ordem Terceiro do Carmo, Da Boa Morte, Do Bom Jesus 
 do Calvario, &c. They have a style of dress approaching the cleri- 
 cal in appearance, which is worn on holidays, with some distin- 
 guishing mark by which each association is known. A liberal 
 entrance-fee and an annual subscription is required of all the mem- 
 bers, each of whom is entitled to support from the general fund in 
 
 107 
 
108 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 sickness and in poverty, and also to a funeral of ceremony when 
 dead. The brotherhoods contribute to the erection and support 
 of churches, provide for the sick, bury the dead, and support 
 masses for souls. In short, next after the State, they are the most 
 efficient auxiliaries for the support of the religious establishment 
 of the country. Many of them, in the lapse of years, have become 
 ricli by the receipt of donations and legacies, and membership in 
 Kuch is highly prized. 
 
 The extensive private hospital of S. Francisco de Paula belongs 
 to a brotherhood of that name. It is located in an airy position, 
 and built in the most substantial manner. Each patient has an 
 alcove allotted to him, in which he receives the calls of the phy- 
 sician and the necessarj'^ care of attendants. When able to walk, 
 he has long corridors leading round the whole building, in which 
 he may promenade, or from the windows enjo}'^ the air and a sight 
 of surrounding scenes. There are also sitting-rooms in which the 
 convalescent members of the fraternity meet to converse. 
 
 The Hospital dos Lazaros is located at St. Christovao, several 
 miles from the city, and is entirely devoted to persons afflicted 
 with the elephantiasis and other cutaneous diseases of the leprous 
 type. Such diseases are unhappily very common at Eio, where it 
 is no i-are thing to see a man dragging about a leg swollen to twice 
 its proper dimensions, or sitting with the gangrened member ex- 
 posed as a plea for charity. The term "elephantiasis" is derived 
 from the enormous tumors which the affection causes to arise on 
 the lower limbs, and to hang down in folds or circular bands, 
 making the parts resemble the legs of an elephant. The deformity 
 is frightful in itself; but the prevailing belief that the disease is 
 contagious imparts to the beholder an additional disgust. 
 
 It was an act of true benevolence by which the Conde da Cunha 
 appropriated an ancient convent of the Jesuits to the use of a 
 hospital for the treatment of these cases. It was placed, and has 
 since remained, under the supervision of the Irmandade do Santis- 
 simo Sacramento. The average number of its inmates is about 
 eighty. Few in Avhom the disease is so far advanced as to require 
 their removal to the hospital ever recover from it. Not long since 
 a person pretended to have made the discovery that the ele- 
 phantiasis of Brazil was the identical disease which was cured 
 
Elephantiasis and the Rattlesnake. 109 
 
 among the ancient Greeks by the bite of a rattlesnake. lie pub- 
 lished several disquisitions on the subject, and thus awakened 
 public attention to his singular theory. An opportunity soon 
 offered for testing it. An inmate of the hospital, who had been a 
 subject of the disease for six 3'ears, resolved to submit himself to 
 the hazardous experiment. 
 
 A day was fixed, and several physicians and friends of the parties 
 were present to Avituess the result. The afflicted man was fifty 
 years old, and, either from a confident anticipation of a cure, or 
 from despair of a happier issue, was impatient for the trial. The 
 serpent was brought in a cage, and into this the jDaticnt introduced 
 his hand with the most perfect jjresence of mind. The reptile 
 seemed to shrink from the contact, as though there was something 
 in the part which neutralized its venom. When touched, the ser- 
 pent would even lick the hand without biting. It became neces- 
 sary at length for the patient to grasp and squeeze the reptile 
 tightl}', in order to receive a thrust from his fangs. The desired 
 infliction was at length given, near the base of the little finger. 
 
 So little sensation pervaded the member that the patient was 
 not aware he was bitten until informed of it by those who saw the 
 act. A little blood oozed from the wound, and a slight swelling 
 appeared when the hand was withdi'awn from the cage; but no 
 pain was felt. Moments of intense anxiety now followed, while 
 it remained to be seen whether the strange application would issue 
 for the better or for the worse. The effect became gradually 
 manifest, although it was evidently retarded by the disease which 
 had preoccupied the system. In less than twenty-four hours the 
 Lazarus w^as a corj)se 1 
 
 The most extensive hospital in the city, and indeed in the Em- 
 pire, is that called the Santa Casa da Misericordia, or the Holy Housa 
 of Mercy. This establishment is located upon the sea-shore, under 
 the brow of the Castello Hill, and is open day and night for t'le 
 reception of the sick and distressed. The best assistance in the 
 power of the administrators to give is here rendered to all, male 
 and female, black or white. Moor or Christian, — none of whom, 
 even the most wretched, are under the necessity of seeking influ- 
 ence or recommendations in order to be I'eceived. 
 
 From the statistics of this establishment it appears that more 
 
110 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 than seven thousand patients are annually received, of whom more 
 than one thousand die. 
 
 In this hospital are treated vast numbers of English and 
 American seamen, the subjects of sickness or accident on their 
 arrival, or during their stay in the port. There are few nations 
 of the world which are not represented among the inmates of the 
 Misericordia of Eio de Janeii'o. Free access being always granted 
 to its halls, they furnish an ample and interesting field for benevo- 
 lent exertions in behalf of the sick and dying. 
 
 THE JURUJUBA HOSPITAL. 
 
 The years 1850, '51, '52, and '53 were those of great mortality 
 among foreigners on account of the first and only known visit of 
 the yellow fever to Eio de Janeiro and the coast of Brazil. The 
 number of deaths among the natives was much exaggerated, and 
 in no portion of the Empire was the mortality ever so great as in 
 those parts of the United States which have so often been visited 
 by the same disease. In 1854, '55, and '50, no cases of the yellow 
 
The Yellow Fever Hospital at Jurujuba. Ill 
 
 fever occurred, and its appearance and disappearance have been 
 equally mysterious. The reader curious in such matters will find 
 this subject treated in the appendix. (Dr. P.Candidodied in 1864.) 
 
 New hospitals were arranged for the reception of foreign mari- 
 ners stricken down with this fell malady; but none have been so 
 well appointed, so well regulated, and so eminently successful, as 
 the hospital at Jurujuba, under the supervision of an able medical 
 committee, of which Dr. Paulo Candido was the chief The prin- 
 cipal visiting and attending ph^'sician was Dr. Correo de Azcvedo, 
 a gentleman of great affability and experience, speaking ten differ- 
 ent languages with fluency, and who was a universal favorite among 
 his patients from all parts of the world. Every day during the 
 year the little steamer "Constancia," bearing the physician and his 
 assistants, passes through the entire shipping, receiving the sick, 
 and then transports them to the southern shores of the St. Xavier's 
 or Jurujuba Bay. The hospital is situated in the midst of perpetual 
 verdure, and whei'e the ocean and land breezes are uncontaminated 
 by the many impurities of a vast city. Here are excellent and 
 kind nurses, who co-operate with the physicians in promoting the 
 recovery of the invalids. Dr. Azevedo now resides at Theresopolis. 
 
 Jurujuba Hospital was for me a place of frequent visitation 
 during the prevalence of the dreaded yellow fever. How many a 
 poor wayfarer of the deep have I seen here and on shipboard, for 
 away from country, home, and relatives, go dowm to the grave! 
 How often, too, have I witnessed the power of that " hope which 
 maketh not ashamed," as I have caught from dying lips the last 
 loving messages sent to a distant father, mother, or sister, or as I 
 have listened to the triumphant hymn which proclaimed the vic- 
 tory over the last foe to man ! 
 
 Although there was free transit to all who wished to go to the 
 liospital, I never met a single Brazilian or Portuguese priest in my 
 many visits to Jurujuba. It could not be pleaded in extenuation 
 that it was an institution for English and American mariners, for a 
 very large proportion were Portuguese, Spanish, French, and 
 Italian sailors. The only Eoman Catholic ecclesiastic of any 
 grade that I ever saw at Jurujuba was one of the devoted Italian 
 Capuchins who seem at Rio to be ever on errands of mercy, 
 through tropic heats and rains, while the lazy, lounging, greasy, 
 
112 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 acclimated frades of San Antonio, San Bento, and of Carmo, live 
 at ease in their huge conventual buildings, situated in the loveliest 
 and healthiest portions of the city. 
 
 Before the erection of Jurujuba Hospital nearly all the necessitous 
 foreicrn invalids were accommodated in the Misericoi"dia. 
 
 The benevolence of this latter hospital is not confined to those 
 within its infirmaries, but extends to the different prisons of the 
 city, most of whose inmates receive food and medicines from the 
 provisions of the Misericordia. 
 
 Besides the public hosjHtal, the institution has another for found- 
 lings, and a Recolhimento, or Asylum for Female Orphans. The 
 Foundling-Hospital* is sometimes called Casa da Roda, in allusion 
 to the wheel in which infants are dej)Osited from the streets and 
 by a semi-revolution conveyed within the walls of the building. 
 This wheel occupies the place of a window, facing the thorough- 
 fare, and revolves on a perpendicular axis. It is divided by par- 
 tition into four triangular apartments, one of which always opens 
 without, thus inviting the approach of any who may be so heartless 
 as to wish to part with their infant children. They have only to 
 deposit the foundling in the box, and by a turn of the wheel it 
 passes within the walls, they themselves going away unobserved. 
 
 That such institutions are the offspring of a mistaken philan- 
 thropy is as evident in Brazil as it can be in any country. Not 
 only do they encourage licentiousness, but the}'' foster the most 
 palpable inhumanity. Out of three thousand six hundred and 
 thirty infants exposed in Eio during ten years anterior to 1840, 
 only one thousand and twenty-four were living at the end of that 
 period. In the year 1838-39, four hundred and forty-nine were 
 deposited in the wheel, of whom six were found dead when taken 
 out; many expired the first day after their arrival, and two hun- 
 dred and thirty-nine died in a short period. 
 
 The report of the Minister of the Empire for the official year 
 1854-55 gives the following alarming statistics and the comments 
 of the minister : — 
 
 * The Foundling-Hospital was formerly the large three-story building seen on 
 the right-hand side of the "View of the Gloria Hill from the Terract of the 
 Passeio Publico." The hospital is now in the Rua dos Barbonas. 
 
Foundling Hospital and Misericordia. 113 
 
 "In 1854, 588 infants were received, in addition to 68 already in 
 the establishment. Total, 656: died, 435; remaining, 221. 
 
 "In 1853, the number of foundlings received was 630, and of 
 deaths 515.(!) 
 
 <' There was, therefore, less mortality in the past than in the 
 former year. Still, the number of deaths is frightfid. 
 
 " U]) to the present time it has not been possible to ascertain the 
 exact causes of this lamentable mortality, which with more or less 
 intensity always takes place among such infants, notwithstanding 
 the utmost effort and care that has been used to combat the evil." 
 
 Well might one of the physicians of the establishment, in whose 
 company a gentleman of my acquaintance visited several depart- 
 ments of the institution, remark, "Monsieur, c'est une boucherie!" 
 
 What must be the moral condition or the humane feelings of 
 those numerous persons who deliberately contribute to such an ex- 
 posure of infant life? One peculiar circumstance connected with 
 this state of things consists in the alleged fact that many of the 
 foundlings are the offspring of female slaves, whose masters, not 
 wishing the trouble and expense of endeavoring to raise the chil- 
 dren, or wishing the services of the mothers as wet-nurses, require 
 the infants to be sent to the engeitaria, where, should they survive, 
 they of course are free. A large edifice for the accommodation of 
 foundlings is being erected on the Largo da Lapa. 
 
 The Asylum for Female Orphans is a very popular establishment. 
 It is chiefly supplied from the Foundling-Hospital. The institution 
 not onl}" contemplates the protection of the glials in its care during 
 their more tender j-ears, but provides also for their marriage, and 
 confers on them dowries of from two to four hundred milreis each. 
 On the 2d of July, every year, when the Eomish Church cele- 
 brates the anniversary of the Visitation of St. Elizabeth, by pro- 
 cessions, masses, and the like, this establishment is thi'own open to 
 the public, and is thronged with visitors, (among whom are their 
 Imperial Majesties,) some of whom bi'ing presents to the recolhidas, 
 and some ask for them in marriage. 
 
 The new buildings of the Misericordia are upon a grand scale, and 
 the view of it to those entering the harbor is, architecturally con- 
 sidered, truly magnificent. It is constructed of stone, and is six 
 hundred feet in length. There is only the half of the immense 
 
114 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 structure presented to the eye as we look at the sketch below, en- 
 graved from a daguerreotj'pe; and the reader will be astonished at 
 the size of this noble beneficiary edifice when he is informed that 
 it is a double building, and that its twin-brother is in the rear of 
 it; but it is so connected as to form several airy quadrangular 
 courts. With its modern improvements, insuring superior ventila- 
 tion, light, and cleanliness, — with its flower-gardens and shrubberies 
 for the recreation and exercise of the convalescent, — with its cool 
 
 St Luziis 
 
 Morro do Cadteiio. Arsenal of War. 
 
 MISERICORDI A. 
 
 fountains, its spacious apartments, kind attendants, and beautifui 
 situation, — this hospital is, as has been well said, "a credit to the 
 civilization of the age, and a splendid monument of the munifi- 
 cence and benevolence of the Brotherhood of Mercy." 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum, or, as it is officially called, the Hospicio de 
 Pedro II., situated on the graceful Bay of Botafogo, is a splendid, 
 fiilace-like structure, inaugurated in 1852. The accommodation 
 for the insane is here upon a scale of comfort and splendor only 
 equalled by the Misericordia, whose noble dome lifts itself above 
 
Jose de Anchieta. 115 
 
 the Praia da Santa Luzia. The French Sisters of Charity are the 
 nurses here as well as in the house of the Brothers of Mercy. The 
 Emperor, after whom the hospital at Botafogo is named, is one of 
 its most liberal supporters. 
 
 The annual expenses of the Misericordia are about one hundred 
 and fifty thousand dollars. A small portion of its receipts are pro- 
 vided for by certain tributes at the Custom-House, another portion 
 by lotteries, and the balance by donations and the rent of properties 
 which belong to the institution through purchase and legacies 
 The Foundling-Hospital and Eecolhimento have been in existence 
 about a hundred years. The original establishment of the Miseri- 
 cordia dates back as far as 1582, and took place under the auspices 
 of that distinguished Jesuit, Jose de Anchieta. About that time 
 there arrived in the port a Spanish armada, consisting of sixteen 
 vessels-of-war, and having on board three thousand Spaniards, 
 bound to the Straits of Majellan. During the voyage very severe 
 storms had been experienced, in which the vessels had suffered 
 greatly, and sickness had extensively broken out on board. An- 
 chieta was at the time on a visit to the college of his order, which 
 had been founded some years previously, and whose towei'S still 
 surmount the Castello Hill. Moved by compassion for the suffering 
 Spaniards, he made arrangements for their succor, and in so doing 
 laid the foundation of an institution which has continued to the 
 present day enlarging its charities and increasing its means of 
 alleviating human suffering. 
 
 It is impossible to contemplate the results of such an act of 
 philanthropy without a feeling of respect toward its author. 
 How many tens of thousands, during the lapse of moi*e than two 
 hundred and fifty years, have found an asylum within the walls of 
 the Misericordia of Rio de Janeiro, — how many thousands a grave ! 
 Anchieta was among the first Jesuits sent out to the New World, 
 and his name fills a large spa-ce in the history of that order. His 
 earlier labors were devoted to the Indians of S. Paulo, and along 
 that coast, where he endured great privations and exerted a power- 
 ful influence; but he finally returned to Rio de Janeiro, and there 
 ended his days. 
 
 His self-denial as a missionary, his labor in acquiring and method- 
 izing a barbarous language, and his services to the State, were 
 
116 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 sufficient to secure to him an honest fame and a precious memory; 
 but in the latter part of the ensuing century he was made a candi 
 date for saintship, and his real virtues were made to pass for little 
 in comparison with the power by which it was pretended that he 
 had wrought miracles. Simon de Yasconcellos, Provincial of 
 Brazil, and historian of the province, composed a narrative of 
 his life, which is one of the greatest examples of extravagance 
 extant. 
 
 It may be interesting to pass from the Santa Casa da Misericor- 
 dia, so happily associated with his name, up the steep paved walk 
 which leads to the old Jesuits' College on the Morro do Castello, 
 where Anchieta died. Here we may contemplate the huge anti- 
 quated structure, which, although long since pei'verted from its 
 original use, remains, and is destined to remain perhaps for ages 
 to come, a monument of the wealth and power of the order 
 founded by Ignatius de Loyola, whose name the college bore. 
 
 It is sickening to turn our attention from the good which 
 Anchieta did, to the absurd inventions in regard to the founder of 
 the Misericordia after he had been for a hundred years slumbering 
 in the tomb. It is only one of those monstrous legends invented 
 by the priests, approved by the Inquisition, and ratified by the 
 church, which were for centuries palmed off upon the cxedulity of 
 the people, as a means of advancing the interests and the renown 
 of rival monastic orders. 
 
 Mr. Southey remarks: — ''It would be impossible to say which 
 order has exceeded the others in Europe in this rivalry, each 
 having carried the audacity of falsehood to its utmost bounds; hut 
 in Brazil the Jesuits bore the palm." 
 
 Of this few will doubt who read the following. "Some," says 
 Vasconcellos, "have called him [Anchieta] the second Thauma- 
 tourgos; others, the second Adam, — and this is the fitter title; 
 because it was expedient that, as there had been an Adam in the 
 Old World, there should be one in the New, to be the head of all 
 its inhabitants and have authority over the elements and animals 
 of America, such as the first Adam possessed in Paradise. 
 
 " There were, therefore, in Anchieta, all the powers and graces 
 with which the first Adam had been endoAved, and he enjoyed 
 them not merely for a time, but during his whole life; and for this 
 
The Wonderful Gifts of Anchieta. 117 
 
 reason, like our common father, he was born with innocence, 
 impassibility, an enlightened mind, and a right will. 
 
 '^ Dominion was given him over the elements and all that dwell 
 therein. The earth brought forth fruit at his command and even 
 gave np the dead, that they might be restored to life ai d receive 
 baptism from his hand. The birds of the air formed a canopy 
 over his head to shade him from the sun. The fish came into his 
 net when he required them. The wild beasts of the forest attended 
 him in his journeys and served him as an escort. The winds and 
 waves obej'ed his voice. The fire, at his pleasui*e, undid the mis- 
 chief which it had done, so that bread Avhich had been burnt to a 
 cinder in the oven was drawn out white and soft by his inter- 
 ference. 
 
 "He could read the secrets of the heart. The knowledge of 
 hidden things and sciences was imparted to him; and he enjoyed 
 daily and hourly ecstasies, visions, and revelations. He was a 
 Baint, a prophet, a worker of miracles, and a vice-Christ; yet such 
 was his humilit}^, that he called himself a vile mortal and an igno- 
 rant sinner. 
 
 " His barret-cap was a cure for all diseases of the head. Any 
 one of his cilices, [wire shirts,] or any part of his dress, was an 
 efficacious remedy against impure thoughts. Water poured ovei 
 one of his bones worked more than two hundred miracles in Per- 
 nambuco, more than a thousand in the South of Brazil; and a 
 few drops of it turned water into wine, as at the marriage in 
 Galilee. Some of his miracles are commended as being more 
 fanciful and in a more elegant taste [sicl than those which are re- 
 corded in the Scriptures." 
 
 The book in which these assertions are made, and which is 
 stuffed with examples of every kind of miracles, was licensed by 
 the various censors of the press at Lisbon, — one of whom declares, 
 that, as long as the publication should be delayed, so long would the 
 faithful be deprived of great benefit, and God himself of glory! 
 
 The same author, who has collected and attested all the fables 
 which credulity and ignorance had propagated concerning Anchieta, 
 has produced a far more extraordinary history of Friar Joam 
 d' Almeida, his successor in sanctity. It was written immediately 
 after Almeida's death, when the circumstances of his life Avere freth 
 
118 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 in remembrance, and too soon for the embellishment of machinery 
 to be interwoven. 
 
 This remarkable person, whose name appears originally to have 
 been John Martin, was an Englishman, born in London during the 
 reign of Elizabeth. In the tenth year of his age he was kidnapped 
 by a Portuguese merchant, apparently for the purpose of preserving 
 him in the Catholic faith; and this merchant, seven years after- 
 ward, took him to Brazil, where, being placed under tho care of 
 the Jesuits, he entered the company. 
 
 Anchieta was his superior, then an old man, broken down with 
 exertion and austerities and subject to frequent faintings. Almeida 
 used to rub his feet at such times, in reference to which he was 
 accustomed to say that, whatever virtue there might be in his 
 hands, he had taken it from the feet of his master. No volup- 
 tuary ever invented so many devices for pampering the senses as 
 Joam d' Almeida did for mortifying them. He looked upon his 
 body as a rebellious slave, who, dw^elling within-doors, eating at 
 his table, and sleeping in his bed, was continually laying snares 
 for his destruction; therefore he regarded it with the deepest 
 hatred, and, as a matter of justice and self-defence, persecuted, 
 flogged, and punished it in every imaginable way. For this pur- 
 l^ose he had a choice assortment of scourges, — some of whipcord, 
 some of catgut, some of leathern thongs, and some of wire. He 
 had cilices of wire for his arms, thighs, and legs, one of Avhich was 
 listened around the body with seven chains; and another he called 
 his good sack, which was an under- waistcoat of the roughest horse- 
 hair, having on the inside seven crosses made of iron, the surface 
 of which was covered with sharp points, like a coarse rasp or a nut- 
 meg-grater. Such was the whole armor of righteousness in which 
 this soldier of Christ clad himself for his battles with the infernal 
 enemy. It is recorded among his other virtues that he never dis- 
 turbed the mosquitos and fleas when they covered him; that, what- 
 ever exercise he might take in that hot climate, he never changed 
 his shirt more than once a week; and that on his journeys he put 
 pebbles or grains of maize in his shoes. 
 
 His daily course of life was regulated in conformity to a paper 
 drawn up by himself, wherein he promised "to eat nothing on 
 Mondays, in honor of the Trinity, — to wear one of his cilices, 
 
Friar Joam d'Almeida. 119 
 
 according to the disposition and strength of the poor beast, as he 
 called his body, and to accompan}' it Avith the customary fly- 
 flapping of his four scourges, in love, reverence, and remembrance 
 of the stripes which our Saviour had suflFered for his sake. Tues- 
 days, his food was to be bread and water, with the same dessert, to 
 the praise and glory of the archangel Michael, his guardian angel, 
 and all other angels. AVednesdays, he relaxed so far as only to 
 follow tl^^e rule of the company. On Thursdays, in honor of the 
 Holy Ghost, the most holy sacrament, St. Ignatius Loyola, the 
 apostles, and all saints, male and female, he ate nothing. Fridays, 
 he was to bear in mind that the rules of his order recommended 
 fasting, and that he had forsworn wine except in cases of neces- 
 sity. Saturday, he abstained again from all food, in honor of the 
 Virgin, and this abstinence was to be accompanied with whatever 
 might be accei^table to her; whereby exercises of rigor as well as 
 prayer were implied. On Sundays, as on Wednesdays, he observed 
 the rules of the community." 
 
 The great object of his most thankful meditations was to think 
 that, having been born in England,* and in London, in the very 
 seat and heart of heresy, he had been led to this happy way of life. 
 In this extraordinary course of self-torment, Friar Joam d'Almeida 
 attained the great age of fourscore and two. "When he was far 
 advanced in years, his cilices and scourges were taken from him 
 lest they should accelerate his death ; but from that time he was 
 observed to lose strength, as if his constitution was injured by the 
 change : such practices were become necessary to him, like a per- 
 jDctual blister, without which the bodily system, having been long 
 accustomed to it, could not continue its functions. He used to 
 entreat others, for the love of God, to lend him a whip or a cilice, 
 exclaiming, "What means have I now wherewith to appease the 
 Lord ? What shall I do to be saved ?" Such are the works which 
 a corrupt church has substituted for faith in Christ and for the 
 duties of genuine Christianity. 
 
 Nor must this be considered as a mere case of individual mad- 
 ness. While Almeida lived, he was an object of reverence and 
 
 * On one side of his portrait is the figure of England, on the other that of Brazil, 
 and under them these words: — " Hinc Anglus, hinc Angelus." 
 
120 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 admiration, not only to the common people of Eio de Janeiro, but 
 to persons of all ranks. His excesses were in the spirit of his reli- 
 gion, and they were recorded after his death for edification and 
 example, under the sanction of the Superiors of an order which al 
 that time held the first rank in the estimation of the Eoman 
 Catholic world. 
 
 During his last illness the convent was crowded with persona 
 who wei'e desirous to behold the death of a saint. Nothing else 
 was talked of in the city, and the Fluminenses accosted each other 
 with condolences as for some public calamity. Solicitations were 
 made thus early for scraps of his writing, rags of his garments or 
 cilices, and, indeed, any thing which had belonged to him; and 
 the poi'ter was fully employed in receiving and delivering beads^ 
 cloths, and other things which devout persons sent, that they 
 might be applied to the body of the djnng saint and imbibe from 
 it a healing virtue. He was bled during his illness, and every drop 
 of the blood was- carefully received upon cloths, which were divided 
 as relics among those who had most interest in the college. 
 
 When the bell of the college announced his death, the whole 
 city was as greatly agitated as if the alarm of an invasion had been 
 given. The governor, the bishop-administrator, the magistrates, 
 nobles, clergy, and religious of every order, and the whole people, 
 hastened to his funeral. Every shop was shut. Even the crijoples 
 and the sick were carried to the ceremony. Another person died 
 at the same time, and it was with great difficult}^ that men could 
 be found to bear the body to the grave. ■ 
 
 An official statement of the proceedings of the day was drawn 
 up, to be a perpetual memorial; and the admiration of the people 
 for Friar Joam d'Almeida was so great, especially in Eio de Janeiro, 
 that they used his relics in diseases with as much faith as if he had 
 been canonized, and with as much success. For a while they in- 
 voked no other saint, as if they had forgotten their former objects 
 of devotion ! 
 
 The practical rules of our Saviour, in the Sermon on the Mount, 
 in regard to cheerfulness and absence of ostentation in religion, are 
 very far from coinciding with the above practices; and one would 
 judge that there was no need of a Mediator for the man who thus 
 worked out his own salvation. 
 
Churches, Chapels, and Convents. 121 
 
 There are within the city of Rio and its suburbs about fifty 
 churches and chapels. They are generally among the most costly 
 and imposing edifices of the country, although many of them have 
 but little to boast as regards either plan or finish. They may 
 be found of various form and style. Some are octagonal, some are 
 in the form of the Roman and some of the Grecian cross, Avhile 
 others are merely oblong. The Church of the Candelaria* was 
 originally designed to be a cathedral for the diocese of Rio de 
 Janeiro. It was commenced about seventy years ago, but is not 
 yet entirely finished. Like nearly every other building for eccle- 
 siastical purposes in the country, it stands as a memento of past 
 generations. The erection of a new church in Brazil is not an 
 event of frequent occurrence. 
 
 The chapels of the convents are in several instances larger, and 
 probably more expensive, than any of the churches. That of the 
 Convent of San Bentof is one of the most ancient, having been 
 repaired, according to an inscription it bears, in 1671. The exte- 
 rior of the edifice is rude but massive ; its windows are heavily 
 barred with iron gratings, more resembling a prison than a place 
 of worship. The sides of the chapel are crowded with images and 
 altars. The roof and ceiled walls exhibit paintings designed to 
 illustrate the historj^ of the patron . saint, the relics of whose 
 miracles are here carefully preserved. Unnumbered figures of 
 angels and cherubs, carved in wood and heavily gilded, look down 
 upon you from every corner in which they can be fastened : in 
 fact, nearly the whole interior is gilt. The order of the Bene- 
 dictines is by for the richest in the Empire, possessing houses and 
 lands of vast extent, though the number of monks is at present 
 quite small. In the convent pi'oper, a large square area is sur- 
 rounded by corridors open on one side, and exhibiting the doors 
 of the several dormitories of the monks on the other. An accessible 
 apartment is devoted to the library, composed of about six thou- 
 sand volumes. The sombre and melancholy air which pervades 
 
 * The tall spires of this church may be seen in the general "View of Rio de 
 Janeiro from the Island of Cobras," rising above the right of the central palm-tree. 
 
 f The turrets of this convent are those seen farthest to the right, in the " View" 
 referred to in the note above. 
 
122 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 this monastic pile is in perfect contrast with the splendid scene to 
 be enjoyed in front of it, and with the neat and modern appear- 
 ance of the Naval Ai'senal, located at the foot of the eminence on 
 which it stands.* 
 
 A striking peculiarity in the aspect of Eio de Janeiro is derived 
 from the circumstance that all the most elevated and commanding 
 
 sites of the city and its 
 vicinity are occupied by 
 churches and convents. 
 Of these may be next men- 
 tioned the Convent of 
 St. Anthony, a mendicant 
 order, whose shovel-hat 
 monks, although sworn to 
 eternal poverty, have con- 
 trived to obtain a very 
 valuable site and to erect 
 a most costly edifice. The 
 building, since they can pos- 
 sess nothing themselves, 
 belongs, very convenientlj", 
 to the Pope of Rome. In 
 it are two immense cha- 
 pels and a vast cloister, 
 with scarcely enough fi'iars 
 to keep them in order. 
 
 On a hill opposite that 
 of S. Antonio is the nun- 
 nery of Santa Theresa, occupying a situation more pictures(pie, 
 perhaps, than that of either of the monasteries mentioned; and 
 yet, as if to render the appearance of the building as offensive as 
 possible in the midst of scenery ever breathing the fragrance of 
 opening flowers and smiling in beauty, its contracted windows are 
 
 FRADES OF ST. ANTHONY. 
 
 * On the island of Cobras, nearly opposite the Convent of S. Bento, is an im- 
 mense copper ring near the water's edge, put down by the celebrated Captain 
 Cook in his last voyage. 
 
The Lady Boarders of Ajuda Convent. 123 
 
 not only barred with iron gratings, but even these gratings are set 
 with bristling spilces. 
 
 The Convent of Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, which is overlooked 
 from the Hill of Santa Theresa, completes the list of monastic insti- 
 tutions in the capital of Brazil. In this last-mentioned were for- 
 merly- many inmates' who had not taken the veil. The jealousy 
 of the Portuguese and their descendants was such, that in other 
 years it was not uncommon for a gentleman, when making a visit 
 to the mother-country, to incarcerate — or, more politely, "procure 
 lodgings" for — his wife in the convent, where she remained during 
 his entire absence. I have understood that this shameful practice 
 has been forbidden by the present Emperor. The monasteries may 
 all be considered unpopular, and could never again be erected at 
 any thing like their pi-esent expense. 
 
 The churches of all descriptions are generally open every morn- 
 ing. At this time masses are said in most of them. Ordinarily 
 but few persons arc in attendance, and these are principally women. 
 Upon the great holidays, several of which occur during Lent, the 
 churches are thronged, and sermons are occasionally delivered; 
 but nothing like regular preaching on the Sabbath or any other day 
 is known in any part of the country. 
 
 Note for 1SG6. — As the subject of health is mentioned in connection with hos- 
 pitals in this chapter, I add that I haye been deeply interested in the report for 
 18G-i of the sanitary condition of the Empire, published by the President (Dr. 
 J. P. Piegos) of the Junta Central de Hygiene Publica. It shows that, under the 
 wise and skilful treatment of the Brazilian faculty, cholera and the yellow fever 
 have almost entirely disappeared from Brazil. I am indebted to Dr. Manoel 
 Pacheco da Silva, of Rio de Janeiro, for this valuable pamphlet. Brazil has suf- 
 fered the greatest medical loss by the death of Dr. Paulo Candido, who did more 
 than any other man to make and publish close observations in regard to the epi- 
 demics of his country. He died at Paris in 1864; and his loss was felt in the 
 eminent medical circles of Europe as much as in Brazil. 
 
CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 ILLUMINATION OF THE CITY EARLY TO BED — POLICE — GAMBLING AND LOTTERIES 
 
 MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT VACCINATION BEGGARS ON HORSEBACK — PRISONS 
 
 SLAVERY — BRAZILIAN LAWS IN FAVOR OF FREEDOM THE MINA HERCULES 
 
 ENGLISH SLAVE-HOLDERS SLAVERY IN BRAZIL DOOMED. 
 
 The streets of few cities are better lighted than those of Eio do 
 Janeiro. The gas-works on the Atterrado sends its illuminating 
 streams to remote suburbs as well as through the many and intri- 
 cate thoroughfares of the Cidade Yelha and the Cidade Nova. 
 They have not the convenient fiction which city governments so 
 often palm off upon themselves in the United States, — viz. : that the 
 moon shines half the year; for in Eio, whether Cjaithia is in the 
 full, or whether shorn of her beams by unforeseen storms, the lamps 
 continue to shed their brilliant light. The coal for the gas comes 
 from England. 
 
 After ten o'clock at night few people are seen in the streets. 
 The Brazilians are eminently an "early to bed, early to rise" 
 people. When the great bells ring out the hour often, every slave 
 "heels it;" and woe be to him that is caught out after the tocsin 
 tolls the time when the law prescribes that he should be in his 
 master's house; for, if dilatory, the police seize Jose and commit 
 him to durance vile until his owner ransom him by a smart fine. 
 
 The same rule does not hold good in regard to freemen ; yet 
 one would think that it was equally in force without regard to 
 class, for the Fluminensians, as a general thing, retire at ten p.m. 
 Nothing is more surprising to a stranger from the North, to whom 
 the night is so attractive, with its coolness, its fragrance, and its bril- 
 liancy, than to find the streets and the beautiful suburbs of the city 
 almost as tenantless and silent as the ruins of Thebes or Palmyra. 
 
 The police of Eio de Janeiro is military, and is well disciplined 
 
 by officers of the regular army. They are fortified with plenty 
 124 
 
The Policeman and his Duties. 
 
 125 
 
 ot authority, and take care to use it. Great difficulties have some- 
 times occurred between the constabulary and foreigners, where, on 
 some occasions, the former have been to' blame; but it was good 
 for "Young America," when going "round the Horn" on his way 
 to California, to be held in wholesome restraint by these ''yellow 
 Brazilians," whom he affected to desjiise. The police is armed. 
 During the daj' j'ou may see them singly or in pairs, having their 
 positions in conv-enient localities for watching the slaves and all 
 others suspected of liability .to disorder. Now the policeman, with 
 three or four of his com- 
 panions, strolls along by 
 Hotel Phai'oux to have an 
 eye upon the foreign sailors; 
 or again, with a single con- 
 frere, he takes his stand by 
 the Carioca fountain ; or, 
 again, his undress-cap, 
 his blue uniform, his 
 sword, and his brace of 
 pistols, arc wholesomely 
 displayed at a corner venda, 
 where the tomanca^-shod 
 Sr. Antonio from Fayal 
 sells cachaga, (rum,) pig- 
 tail tobacco, cariie secca, 
 mandioc-flour, red Lisbon 
 wine, and black beans 
 The above-mentioned sta- 
 ples are the articles of 
 stock and consumption for 
 the low grocer and the low 
 
 class that patronize him. Sometimes he will get a little higher in 
 the provision-line, and add butter, brought from Ireland, lard 
 from the United States, onions from Portugal, sardines, a few hams, 
 and sausages. Then, too, he is somewhat of a lumber-inerchant; 
 
 POLICEMAN AND VENDA. 
 
 * A sort of wooden-soled slipper much worn by the lower class of whites and the 
 free blacks. 
 
126 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 for he purchases a few bundles of finely-split wood, which, togethei 
 "with chai'Goal, is the small accompaniment of the kitchen-battery 
 in Brazil. At these vendas is the only hard drinking (except that 
 done by English and Americans) in Rio, and that imbibing is by 
 the slaves. Often Congo or Mozambique becomes eloquent under 
 the effects of cacha^a, and then the jDoliceman is an effectual ai-biter. 
 
 ] have found few cities more orderly than Rio de Janeiro; and 
 the police are so generall}^ on the alert, that, in comparison with 
 New York and Philadelphia, bui-glaries rarely occur. I felt greater 
 personal security at a late hour of the night in Rio than I would 
 in New York. Yet there are occasions when the police receive a 
 strong hint through the jDublic press for their remissness. The 
 following, taken from a late Correio Mercantil, is an illustration: — 
 "Night before last, after eight o'clock, an individual named 
 Mauricio was attacked by a band of capoeiras* who fell upon him 
 with clubs, striking him upon the forehead, and gashing his thigh 
 in such a manner as to injure the artery. The victim, bathed in 
 blood, was taken to the drug-store of Sr. Pires Ferao, and there 
 received the necessary succors, which were afforded him by Dr. 
 Thomas An tunes de Abreu, who rushed to the aid of the poor man 
 as soon as he was called. No police-authority appeared to take 
 cognizance of this criminal deed!" Such outrages are exceptions, 
 and a few articles based on facts like the above soon arouse the 
 police to their duty. 
 
 There are some offences against the good of society which the 
 police occasionally winked at during my residence in Rio, — i.e. 
 gambling. The jo^o seems an inveterate habit of some Brazilians; 
 and when I have been cooped up with them in quarantine I have 
 had opportunities for watching how every class represented in the 
 Lazareto, from the padre down, gave itself up to the gambling- 
 passion. At Rio the laws are very stringent against gambling- 
 houses; and there are times when their owners are earnestly 
 ferreted out by the police. But in the Rua Princeza, during 1852 
 and '53, a certain lawyer each Saturday night constituted his 
 house a rendezvous where gamblers met, — the regular professional 
 
 * Africans, -who with daggers run a muck in the streets, but not often at the 
 present day in Rio. See page 137. 
 
Gambling and Lotteries. 127 
 
 blackleg, (including the lawyer,) and the young pigeon Avho came 
 to be plucked. When I went to my religious services at nine 
 o'clock on Sabbath morning, their carriages would be still standing 
 before the door, and their sleepy servants yawning and swearing 
 on every side. Policemen regularly marched down the Catete at 
 all hours of the night and in the daytime ; yet month after month 
 pasnod, and the den was not broken up until their operations w^ere for 
 a time suspended by the suicide of one of the parties concerned. 
 
 There is another species of gambling most deleterious in its 
 effects, which is countenanced and supported by the Government. 
 1 refer to lotteries. They are not " sham" concerns, but prizes are 
 put up, and, if drawn, paid. If it is a church, a theatre, or some 
 other public building, to be erected, the Government grants a 
 lottery. There are always six thousand tickets at 20$000 (twenty 
 milreis) eachj the highest prize is 20,000$000, (or about ten thou- 
 sand dollars,) and the second prize is half that sum: there are then 
 two thousand more tickets, which draw prizes of 20$000 (ten dol- 
 lars) and upward. Everywhere in the city are offices for selling the 
 tickets, and in the countr}^ there are equestrian ticket-venders who 
 go from house to house with the risking billets. There is no fraud 
 in awarding the prizes, and there is such a rage for this kind of 
 gambling that the tickets are sold in a few days. The effects are 
 bad; for the poorest whites and the shabbiest blacks will rake, 
 scrape, and steal, until they have sufficient to purchase the quarter 
 part of a billet, and then run with it to the shop where the flaming 
 wheel-sign with Anda a roda hoje (The wheel turns to-day) tells 
 them that this is the road to fortune. When such a spirit is 
 engendered by the State, it becomes rather difficult for the muni- 
 cij)al authorities to put down private gambling. 
 
 The head-quarters of the police are in an ancient public building 
 in the Rua do Conde. 
 
 The city government, consisting of nine aldermen, who compose 
 the Camara municipal, are elected by the people of Rio {i.e. those 
 possessing 100$, — about fift}' dollars income) once in four years. 
 
 The City Ilall, which is called the Camara Municipal, is situated 
 on the Campo Santa Anna. The General Government enforces 
 vaccination, and it is on the lower floor of this building where all 
 who present themselves ou Thursdays and Saturdays are vaccinated 
 
128 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 free of charge : the patients, however, are obligated to return after 
 eight days. A portion of the report of the Minister of the Empire 
 is devoted to this subject, and in the report of 1854-55 the minister 
 says that in the cities and large towns it is easy to enforce the 
 law, but in the villages and the country it is difficult to overcome 
 the obstacles which superstition throws in the way. 
 
 There is a class, confined to no portion of the world, which comes 
 under the especial surveillance of the police. Every Saturday the 
 beggars have their harvest. Mr. AValsh remarked, in 1828, that 
 beggars were seldom seen in the streets of Eio. This was far from 
 being the case in 1838, when Dr. Kidder resided there. Through 
 the lenity or carelessness of the police, great numbers of vagrants 
 were continually perambulating the streets and importuning for 
 alms; and mendicants of every description had their chosen places 
 in the thoroughfares of the town, where they regularly waited and 
 saluted the passers-by with the mournful drawl of Favorece o sen 
 pobre pelo amor de Deos. If any, instead of bestowing a gift, saw 
 fit to respond to this formula with its counterpart, Deos Ihe favorece, 
 (God help you,) they were not always sure to escape without an 
 insult. When this state of things was at its height, and it was 
 known that numerous rogues were at large under the disguise of 
 beggars, the chief of the police suddenly sprung a mine upon them. 
 He oft'ered the constables a reward of ten milrois for every mendi- 
 cant they could apprehend and deliver at the House of Correction. 
 In a few days not less than one hundred and seventy-one vaga- 
 bundos were delivered, over forty of whom were furnished with 
 emploj^ment at the marine arsenal. The remainder were made to 
 labor at the penitentiary till they had liquidated the expense of 
 their apprehension. This measure had a mgst happy effect, and 
 the streets were thenceforward comparatively' free from mendicity, 
 although persons really deserving charity were permitted to ask 
 for aid at their pleasure. 
 
 But in 1855 the evil had again become a crying one. All shades 
 of beggars seemed to abound everywhere. At length it was dis- 
 covered that poor, old, worn-out slaves — those afflicted with blind- 
 ness and elephantiasis — were sent out by their masters to ask 
 alms. A new chef de police, however, made an onslaught upon such 
 mendicants. He had them arrested and examined. JS^o slave was 
 
Beggars on IIorseback. 
 
 129 
 
 thenceforth allowed to beg, as ho rightly deemed that the owner 
 who had enjoyed the fruit of his labor during his days of health 
 could well afford to take care of him when overtaken by old age 
 and sickness.* Twelve mendicants were considered real objects 
 of charity, and had licenses given them. These beggars, being 
 either blind or lame, have now the monopoly of the eleemosynary 
 sympathies of the good people of Eio ; and I believe it is found to 
 be a most profitable business. Some of them are carried in a rede 
 by two slaves or drawn by one ; one worthy rejoices in a little 
 carriage pulled by a fat sheep, and another — a footless man — rides 
 
 \ \ 
 
 THE BEGGAR. 
 
 on a white horse. Sometimes, in the country-parts of Brazil, beg- 
 gars whose pedal extremities are free from all derangement play 
 the cavalier, altogether disdaining to foot it, and seem to receive 
 none the less charity than if they trudged from door to door 
 Upon one occasion, a female beggar, adorned with a feather in her 
 bonnet and mounted on horseback, rode up to a friend of mine at 
 St. Alexio, and, demanding alms, was exceedingly indignant at any 
 inquiries as to the consistency of her costume. The English pro- 
 verb is not remarkably complimentary to such mendicants; but 
 
 * The proverb in Portuguese is very forcible • — ** He who has enjoyed the meat 
 may gnaw the bones." 
 
 9 
 
130 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 a like application is never heard in the land of the Southern 
 Cross. 
 
 The House of Correction, referred to on a jDrevious page, is 
 located under the brow of a high hill, between the suburbs of 
 Catumby and Mata Porcos. The grounds pertaining to it are 
 surrounded by high granite walls, constructed b}^ the prisoners, 
 who have long been chiefly employed on various improvements 
 of the premises. On the hill-side is a quarry, and numbers are 
 emploj-ed in cutting stone for more extended walls and buildings. 
 Others are made to carry earth in wooden trays upon their heads, 
 sometimes from one part of the ground to another, or to fill the 
 cars of a tram-railway, which runs from within the walls to the 
 borders of a marsh nearly a mile distant, which is by this process 
 being reclaimed from the tide-water and converted into valuable 
 ground. The more refractor}^ criminals are chained together, gene- 
 rally two and two, but sometimes four or five go along in file, clank- 
 ing a common chain, which is attached to the leg of each individual. 
 
 The House of Correction is as fine a building, in an architectural 
 point of view, as any similar edifice in the United States. The 
 Director, (Sr. Falcao,) however, finds fault with its plan. It is not 
 yet completed; and it is gratifying to see that the Brazilian 
 Government is taking every measure to bring about an entire 
 reform in prison-buildings and prison-discipline. It is one of those 
 evidences of progress in a nation which is unmistakable. In 1852, 
 Sr. Antonio J. de M. Falcao — who, by his intelligence and enlarged 
 views, was admirably fitted for his ofiice — was sent to the United 
 States to inspect our various prison-systems. The report of Sr. Falcao 
 to the Minister of Justice (Sr. J. Thomas Nabuco de Araujo) is in- 
 corporated in one of the Relatorios of the nation for 1854-55, and is 
 full of interest. It seems strange to read, in the official message of 
 a Brazilian Minister, familiar and sensible discussions in regard to 
 the systems of Auburn and Pennsylvania ; and it is a deserved com- 
 pliment to Sr. Falcao that his able rejjort has been fully reprinted 
 in our own country, in the "Journal of Prison Discipline," so ably 
 conducted by F. A. Packard, Esq., of Philadelphia. Sr. Falcao gives 
 his preference to the system of Pennsylvania. The Eelatorio of 
 the Minister of Justice for the year mentioned is overflowing with 
 instructive and interesting details in regard to penitentiaries and 
 
Punishments of Slaves. 
 
 131 
 
 A_. 
 
 prisons. It is not, however, a n\ere dry narration of facts, but 
 wise suggestions and feasible improvements are laid before the 
 nation in a manner at once clear, attractive, and forcible. 
 
 The citj' prisons known as the Aljube and the Xadres da Policia 
 all have been in a sad state : bad ventilation, bad food, and miserable 
 damp cells, have called forth the denunciations of Sr. Falcao and 
 other enlightened philanthropists in Eio, and these evils will soon 
 be remedied. 
 
 Besides the prisons now enumerated, there are places of confine- 
 ment in the different forts; those of Santa Cruz and the Ilha das 
 Cobras being the principal. 
 
 Many of the prisoners are slaves, though the Brazilian law is not 
 at all dainty as to color or 
 condition. In the Relatorio 
 of the Minister of Justice 
 for the year 1854-55 I find 
 that from the 7th of Sep- 
 tember, 1853, to the 16th 
 of March, 1855, forty slaves 
 and twenty-one free per- 
 sons (which includes whites 
 and blacks) were, for mur- 
 der, condemned to death. 
 The punishment of four- 
 teen of the slaves was com- 
 muted, and that of but four 
 of the freemen. 
 
 One depai'tment of the 
 Casa da Correcgao is appro- 
 priated to the flogging of 
 slaves, who are sent thither 
 to be chastised for disobe- 
 dience or for common mis- 
 demeanors. They are re- 
 ceived at any hour of the 
 
 day or night, and retained free of expense as long as their masters 
 choose to leave them. It would be remarkable if scenes ol' extreme 
 ciuelty did not sometimes occur here. 
 
 ,. , ..... ,/ r' 
 
 THE LOG, IRON COLLAR, AND TIN MASK. 
 
132 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The punishments of the Casa da Correcao are not, however, the 
 only chastisements which the refractory slave receives. There are 
 private floggings; and some of the most common expiations are 
 the tin mask, the iron collar, and the log and chain. The last two 
 denote runaways; hut the tin mask is often placed upon the visage 
 to prevent the city-slave from drinking cacha^a and the country- 
 slave from eating clay, to which man}-- of the field-negroes are 
 addicted. This mania, — for it can be called nothing else, — if not 
 checked, causes languor, sickness, and death. 
 
 The subject of slavery in Brazil is one of great interest and hope- 
 fulness. The Brazihan Constitution recognises, neither directly 
 nor indirectly, color as a basis of civil rights; hence, once free, the 
 black man or the mulatto, if he possess energy and talent, can rise 
 to a social position from which his race in North America is 
 debarred. Until 1850, when the slave-trade was effectually put 
 down, it was considered cheaper, on the country-plantations, to 
 use up a slave in five or seven years and purchase another, than to 
 take care of him. This I had, in the interior, from intelligent 
 native Brazilians, and my own observation has confirmed it. But, 
 since the inhuman traffic with Africa has ceased, the price of slaves 
 has been enhanced, and the selfish motives for taking greater care 
 of them have been increased. Those in the city are treated better 
 than those on the plantations : they seem more cheerful, more full 
 of fun, and have greater opportunities for freeing themselves. But 
 still there must be great cruelty in some cases, for suicides among 
 slaves — which are almost unknown in our Southern States — are 
 of very frequent occurrence in the cities of Brazil. Can this, how- 
 ever, be attributed to cruelty ? The negro of the United States is 
 the descendant of those who have, in various ways, acquired a 
 knowledge of the hopes and fears, the rewards and punishments, 
 which the Scriptures hold out to the good and threaten to the evil : 
 to avoid the crime of suicide is as strongly inculcated as to avoid 
 that of murder. The North American negro has, \>y this very 
 circumstance, a higher moral intelligence than his brother fresh 
 from the wild freedom and heathenism of Africa; hence the latter, 
 goaded by cruelty, or his high spirit refusing to bow to the white 
 man, takes that fearful leap which lands him in the invisible 
 world. 
 
Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom. 133 
 
 In Brazil every tiling is in favor of freedom j* and such are the facili- 
 ties for the slave to emancipate himself, and, when emancipated, if 
 he possess the proper qualifications, to ascend to higher eminences 
 than those of a mere free black, that fuit will be written against 
 slaver}^ in this Empire before another half-century rolls around. 
 Some of the most intelligent men that I met with in Brazil — men 
 educated at Paris and Coimbra — were of African descent, whose 
 ancestors were slaves. Thus, if a man have freedom, money, and 
 merit, no matter how black may be his skin, no place in society is 
 refused him. It is surprising also to observe the ambition and 
 the advancement of some of these men with negro blood in their 
 veins. The National Library furnishes not only quiet rooms, large 
 tables, and plenty of books to the seekers after knowledge, but 
 pens and paper are supplied to such as desire these aids to their 
 Btudies. Some of the closest students thus occupied are mulattoes. 
 Formerly a large and successful printing-establishment in Eio — 
 that of Sr. F. Paulo Brito — was owned and directed by a mulatto. 
 In the colleges, the medical, law, and theological schools, there is 
 no distinction of color. It must, however, be admitted that there 
 is a certain — though by no means strong — prejudice existing all 
 over the laud in favor of men of pure white descent. 
 
 In some intestate cases, a slave may go before a magistrate, have 
 his price fixed, and purchase himself; and I was informed that 
 a man of mental endowments, even if he had been a slave, would 
 be debarred from no official station, however high, unless it might 
 be that of Imperial Senator. 
 
 The appearance of Brazilian slaves is \qvj different from that of 
 their class in our own country. Of course, the house-servants in 
 the large cities are decently clad, as a general rule ; but even these 
 are almost always barefooted. This is a sort of badge of slavery. 
 On the tables of fares for ferry-boats, you find one price for persons 
 wearing shoes, (calgadas,) and a lower one for those descalgas, or 
 
 * A Southern lady (the wife of the very popular United States Consul at Rio 
 during the administration of President Pierce) used to say that " the very paradise 
 of the negroes was Brazil ;" for there they possess a warm climate, and, if they 
 choose, may make their way up in the world. 
 
134 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 without shoes. In the houses of many of the wealthy Fluminensea 
 you makie your way through a crowd of little woolly-heads, mostly 
 guiltless of clothing, who are allowed the run of the house and the 
 amusement of seeing visitors. In families that have some tincture 
 of European manners, these unsightl}^ little bipeds are kept in the 
 background. A friend of mine used frequently to dine in the 
 house of a good old general of high rank, around whose table 
 gambolled two little jetty blacks, who hung about their '^pai" (as 
 they called him) until they received their portions from his hands, 
 and that, too, before he commenced his own dinner. "Whenever the 
 lady of the house drove out, these pets were put into the carriage, 
 
 and were as much offended 
 at being neglected as any 
 spoiled only son. They 
 were the children of the 
 lady's nurse, to whom she 
 had given freedom. Indeed, 
 a faithful nurse is generally 
 rewarded by manumission. 
 The appearance of the 
 black male population who 
 live in the open air is any 
 thing but appetizing. Their 
 apology for dress is of the 
 coarsest and dirtiest de- 
 scription. Hundreds of 
 them loiter about the 
 streets with large round 
 wicker-baskets ready to 
 carry any parcel that you 
 desire conveyed. So cheaply 
 and readily is this help ob- 
 tained, that a white servant 
 seldom thinks of carryLng 
 home a package, however small, and would feel quite insulted if 
 you refused him a preto de ganho to relieve him of a roll of calico 
 or a watermelon. These blacks are sent out by their masters, and 
 are required to bring home a certain sum daily. They are allowed 
 
 PRETO DE GANHO AND QUITANDEIRA. 
 
TuE MiNA Hercules. 135 
 
 a portion of their gains to buy their food, and at night sleep on 
 a mat or board in tlio lower purUeus of the house. You fre- 
 quently see horrible cases of elephantiasis and other diseases, 
 which are doubtless engendered or increased by the little care 
 bestowed upon them. 
 
 Formei-ly the coffee-carriers were the finest race of blacks. They 
 were almost all of the Mina tribe, from the coast of Benin, and were 
 athletic and intelligent. They worked half clad, and their sinewy 
 forms and jetty skins showed to advantage as they hastened at a 
 quick trot, seemingly unmindful of their heavy loads. This work 
 paid well, but soon broke them down. They had a system 
 among themselves of buying the freedom, of any one of their num- 
 ber who was the most respected. After having paid their master 
 the sum required by him daily, they clubbed together their surplus 
 to liberate the chosen favorite. There was a Mina black in Eio 
 remarkable for his height, who w-as called "The Prince," being, in 
 fact, of the blood-royal of his native country. He was a prisoner 
 of war, and sold to Brazil. It is said that his subjects in Eio once 
 freed him by their toil: he returned, engaged in war, and was a 
 second time made prisoner and brought back. Whether he ever 
 regained his throne I know not; but the loss of it did not 
 seem to weigh heavily on his mind. He was an excellent carrier; 
 and, "when a friend of mine embarked, the ''Prince" and his trooj) 
 were engaged to transport the baggage to the ship. He carried 
 the laro-est case on his head the distance of two miles and a half. 
 This same case was pronounced unmanageable in Philadelphia 
 by the united efforts of four American negroes, and it had to be 
 relieved of half its contents before they would venture to lift it 
 up-stairs. 
 
 From time to time the traveller will meet with negroes from 
 those portions of Africa of which we know very little except by 
 the reports of explorers like Livingstone, Barth, and Burton. 
 I have often thought that the slaves of the United States are 
 descended not from the noblest African stock, or that more than a 
 century of bondage has had upon them a most degenerating effect. 
 We find in Brazil very inferior spiritless Africans, and others of 
 an almost untamable disposition. The Mina negro seldom makes 
 a good house-servant, for he is not contented except in breathing 
 
136 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the fresh air. The men become coffee-carriers, and the women 
 quitandeiras, or street pedlars. 
 
 These Minas abound at Bahia, and in 1838 plunged that city into 
 a bloody revolt, — the last which that flourishing municipality has 
 experienced. It was rendered the more dreadful on account of 
 the secret combinations of these Minas, who are Mohammedans, 
 and use a language not understood by other Africans or by the 
 Portuguese. 
 
 When the delegation from the English Society of Friends visited 
 Eio de Janeiro in 1852, they were waited upon by a deputation of 
 eight or ten Mina negroes. They had earned money by hard 
 labor and had purchased their freedom, and were now desirous of 
 returning to their native land. They had funds for paying their 
 passage back again to Africa, but wished to know if the coast were 
 reall}' free from the slavers. Sixty of their companions had left 
 Eio de Janeiro for Badagry (coast of Benin) the year before, and 
 had landed in safety. The good Quakers could scarcely credit this 
 last information, thinking it almost impossible that any who had^ 
 once been in servitude "should have been able and bold enough" to 
 make so j)erilous an experiment;" but the statement of the Minas 
 was confirmed by a Eio ship-broker, who put into the hands of the 
 Friends a copy of the charter under which the sixty Minas sailed, 
 and which showed that they had paid four thousand dollars passage 
 money. (See Appendix.) A few days after this interview, Messrs 
 Candler & Burgess received from these fine-looking specimens ot 
 humanity ''a paper beautifully written in Arabic by one of their 
 chiefs, who is a Mohammedan." 
 
 In Eio the blacks belong to manj'- tribes, some being hostile 
 to each other, having different usages and languages. The Mina 
 negroes still remain Mohammedans, but the others are nominal 
 Eoman Catholics. 
 
 Many of them, however, continue their heathen practices. In 
 1839, Dr. Kidder witnessed in Engenho Velho a funeral, which was 
 of the same kind as those curious burial-customs which the African 
 traveller beholds on the Gaboon Eiver. You can scarcely look 
 into a basket in which the quitandeiras carry fruit without seeing 
 afetisch. The most common is a piece of charcoal, with which, the 
 abashed darkey will inform you, the "evil eye" is driven away. 
 
English Slave-holders. 137 
 
 There is a singular secret society among the negroes, in which the 
 hiffhest rank is assigned to the man who has taken the most lives. 
 They are not so numerous as formerly, but from time to time harm 
 the unoffending. These blacks style themselves capoeiros, and 
 during a festa they will rush out at night and rip up any other 
 black they chance to meet. They rarely attack the whites, know- 
 ing, perhaps, that it would cost them too dearl3^ 
 
 The Brazilians are not the only proprietors of slaves in the 
 Empire. There ai"e many Englishmen who have long held Africans 
 in bondage, — some for a series of years, and others have purchased 
 slaves since 1843, when what is called the Lord Brougham Act 
 was passed. By this act it is made unlawful for Englishmen to 
 buy or sell a slave in any land, and by holding property in man 
 they are made liable, were they in England, to prosecution in 
 criminal courts. The English mining-company, whose stockholders 
 are in Great Britain, but whose lleld of operations is S. Joao del 
 Rey in Brazil, own about eight hundred slaves, and hire one thou- 
 sand more. 1865, the English government has remedied this. 
 
 Frenchmen and Germans also j)urchase slaves, although they 
 have not given up allegiance to their respective countries. 
 
 If it be asked, " \Yho will be the laborers in Brazil when slavery 
 is no more?" the reply is, that, though the slave's bonds are 
 broken, the man, and a better man, still exists; and emigrants will 
 come from Germany, Portugal, the Azores and Madeira. 1865, 
 many are emigrating from the South of the United States. 
 
 It is a striking fact that emigrants did not begin to arrive from 
 Europe by thousands until 1852. In 1850 and '51 the African slave- 
 trade was annihilated, and in the succeeding year commenced the 
 present comparatively vigorous colonization. Each year the number 
 of colonists is increasing, and the statesmen of the Empire are now 
 devoting much attention to discover the best means for thus pro- 
 moting the advancement of the country. 
 
 Almost every step in Brazilian progress has been prepared by a 
 previois gradual advance: she did not leap at once into self- 
 government. She was raised from a colonial state by the residence 
 of the Court from Lisbon, and enjoyed for j-ears the position of 
 a constituent portion of the Kingdom of Portugal. The present 
 peaceful state of the Empire under D. Pedro II. was preceded by 
 
138 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the decade in which the capabilities of the people for self-govern- 
 ment were developed under the Regency. The effectual breaking 
 up of the African slave-trade is but the precursor of a more import- 
 ant step. 
 
 Slavery is doomed in Brazil. As has already been exhibited, when 
 freedom is once obtained, it may be said in general that no social 
 hinderances, as in the United States, can keep down a man of 
 merit. Such hinderances do exist in our country. From the warm 
 regions of Texas to the coldest corner of New England the free 
 black man, no matter how gifted, experiences obstacles to his eleva- 
 tion which are insurmountable. Across that imaginaiy line which 
 separates the Union from the possessions of Great Britain, the 
 condition of the African, socially considered, is not much superior. 
 The Anglo-Saxon race, on this point, differs essentially from the 
 Latin nations. The former may be moved to generous pity for 
 the negro, but will not yield socially. The latter, both in Europe 
 and the two Americas, have always placed merit before color. 
 Dumas, the mulatto novel-writer, is as much esteemed in France 
 as Dickens or Thackeray ai'e in England. An instance came under 
 my own observation which confirms most strongly the remark 
 made above. In 1849, it was my privilege to attend with a large 
 number of foreigners a soiree in Paris, given by M. de Tocqueville, 
 then French Minister of Foreign Affairs. I was introduced to a 
 visitor from the United States, who for the first time looked uj^on 
 the scenes of the gay capital, and as we proceeded to the refresh- 
 ment-room his arm rested on mine. I found that this clergyman, 
 by his intelligence, common sense, and modesty, commanded the 
 admiration of all with whom he came in contact. A few weeks 
 afterward a European university of high repute honored him with 
 the degree of Doctor of Divinity. In England he was looked upon 
 with interest and curiosity; but, had he proposed a social alliance 
 equal to his own station, I doubt if success would have attended 
 his offer. In 1856, the same clergyman was ejected from a New 
 York railway-omnibus, by a conductor who daily permitted, with- 
 out molestation, filthy foreigners of the lowest European class 
 to occupy seats in the identical car. When the matter was 
 submitted to the courts of justice, the decision sustained the 
 conductor. There was no attempt to place the case on any 
 
bi^AVERY. 139 
 
 other ground than that the pUiintiff was a man of African 
 
 descent. 
 
 Note for ISGG. — The laws and the treatment of slaves have greatly changed 
 for the better since 1850. It is estimated that, by the emancipation by will, by 
 the purchasing of their own freedom, and by the liberation of what were termed 
 Africanos livros, (those taken from captured slave-vessels and apprenticed out for 
 fourteen years,) the number of slaves has decreased one million, so that to-day 
 there are not 2,000,000 at the highest calculation. Slavery is now mostly con- 
 fined to the central sea-coast provinces. But the emancipated were not lost to 
 labor, as some of the advocates of slavery would have us believe. From 1850 to 
 1860, inclusive, the great tropical staples of cofiFee, sugar, cotton, and tobacco 
 actually increased more than 30 per cent. One of the latest notable cases of 
 emancipation was by the Emperor, who, on the occasion of the marriage (October 16, 
 1861) of the Imperial Princess to the Count d'Eu, liberated the slaves that were 
 hers by dower. Sr. Silveira da Motta, Senator from Goyaz, has been a far-sighted 
 statesman in this respect. He has repeatedly brought in bills to limit slavery; 
 and in the session of 1865, after the collapse of the so-called "Confederate 
 States," his eiforts, with those of the venerable Senator Visconde de Jequitinhonha, 
 have brought this subject most prominently before the Brazilian people; and 
 slavery, which (if the "institution" bad longer survived in North America) 
 would have died in twenty years without special legislation, will doubtless soon 
 be so limited by law that it will be extinguished at an early date. A. C. Tavares 
 Bastos, in the Chamber of Deputies, has been a jjersevering advocate of emanci- 
 pation. The case is a difficult one in many respects; and the prayer of every 
 philanthropist is that the Brazilians may have the wisdom to remove this great 
 ulcer from their body politic. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 EEHGION — THE CORRUPTION OF THE CLERGY — MONSIGNOR BEDINI — TOLERATION 
 
 AMONG THE BRAZILIANS THE PADRE FESTIVALS CONSUMPTION OF WAX 
 
 THE INTRUDO PROCESSIONS ANJINHOS — SANTA PRISCILLIANA THE CHOLERA 
 
 NOT CURED BY PROCESSIONS. 
 
 The "Eoman Catholic Apostolic" is the religion of the State in 
 Brazil; yet, by the liberal Constitution, and by the equally-liberal 
 sentiments of the Brazilians, all other denominations have the 
 right to worship God as they choose, whether in public or in 
 private, with the single limitation that the church-edifice must 
 not be exterior de templo, — in the form of a temple, — which has 
 been defined by the supreme judges to be a building "without 
 steeples or bells." Roman Catholicism in Brazil has never been 
 subject to the influences with which it has had to contend in 
 EurojDe since the Reformation. It was introduced contempora- 
 neously with the first settlement of the country as a colony, and 
 for three hundred years has been left to a perfectly free and 
 untrammelled course. It has had the opportunity of exerting its 
 very best influences on the minds of the people, and of arriving at 
 its highest degree of jDcrfection. In pomp and display it is unsur- 
 passed even in Italy. The greatest defender of the Church of 
 Rome must admit that South America has been a fair field for his 
 ecclesiastical polity; and if his religion could have made a people 
 great, enlightened, and good, it has had the power to have made 
 Spanish and Portuguese America a moral, as it is a natural, Para- 
 dise. Spain and Portugal, at the time of the appropriation of their 
 possessions in the New World, were equal, if not suj)erior, to the 
 English in all the great enterprises of the fifteenth and sixteenth 
 centuries: but how widely different have been the results which 
 have flowed from the colonies founded by both ! Brazil is in every 
 respect the superior State of South America just so far as she has 
 
 abandoned the exclusiveness of Romanism. Since the Independ- 
 140 
 
Corruption of the Priestuood. 141 
 
 ence, the priest-power has been broken, and the potent hierarchy 
 of Eorao does not rule over the consciences and acts of men as in 
 Chili or Mexico. On numerous occasions, measures have been 
 taken in the Assemblea Geral to curtail the assumptions of the 
 triple-crowned priest of the Eternal City; and once,* at least, it 
 was proposed to render the Brazilian Church independent of the 
 Holy See. 
 
 It may be said that the advancement in liberality which the 
 Empire has displayed has been owing to political considerations. 
 Granted : but every reader of histor}^ knows that the commence- 
 ment of the English Eeformation was largely implicated with 
 politics, and England's independence of the Papal power was the 
 beginning of her greatness as a state, and paved the way for the 
 rapid moral advancement which characterizes England to-day. 
 
 In Brazil, however, other than political views must be taken of 
 the present freedom from bigotry. The priests, to some extent, 
 owe the loss of their power to their shameful immorality. There 
 is no class of men in the whole Empire whose lives and practices 
 are so corrupt as those of the priesthood. It is notorious. The 
 Relatorios (messages) of the Minister of Justice and the Pi'ovincial 
 Presidents annually allude to this state of things. Every news- 
 paper from time to time contains articles to this effect; every man, 
 whether high or low, speaks his sentiments most unreservedly on 
 this point; no ti-aveller, whether Eomanist or Protestant, can shut 
 his eye to the glaring facts. In every part of Brazil that I have 
 visited I have heard, from the mouths of the ignorant as well as 
 from the lips of the educated, the same sad tale; and, what is 
 worse, in many places the priests openly avow their shame. Dr. 
 Gardner, the naturalist, lived in Brazil from 1836 to '41, and the 
 greater part of that time in the interior, where foreigners are very 
 rarely found. In speaking of the banishment of the laborious and 
 indefatigable Jesuits, whose lives in this portion of America were 
 without reproach, this distinguished botanist says, ''What different 
 men they must have been from the degraded race who now under- 
 take the spiritual welfare of this nation ! It is a hard thing to say, 
 
 * This •was during the Regency, -when Padre Antonio Maria de Moura ivas nomi- 
 nated to the vacant bishopric of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
142 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 but I do it not without "u-ell considering the nature of the asser- 
 tion, that the present clergy of Brazil are more debased and immoral 
 than any other class of men."* 
 
 Though wo should lament immorality in any man or class of 
 men, yet the combination of circumstances mentioned has had its 
 effect in rendering the people, as well as the Government, tolerant. 
 
 A few years ago, Consignor Bedini (Archbishop of Thebes, and 
 late Pope's Legate in the United States and in other partibus infi- 
 delium) was the Nuncio of Pius IX. at the Court of Brazil. In 
 July, 1846, the nuncio went to the mountain-city of Petroj^olis, 
 (about forty miles from Eio,) where are many German Protestants, 
 who have a chapel of their own, which, as well as the chapels in 
 other colonies, is protected under the broad shield of the Constitu- 
 tion, and receives a portion of its support directly from the Govern- 
 ment. There had been certain mixed marriages; and Monsignor 
 preached a furious sermon, in which he declared that all Eomauists 
 so allied were living in concubinage, — their marriages were void, and 
 their children illegitimate. A storm of indignation, both at Petro- 
 pohs and Eio, fell upon the head of the nuncio, whose arrival in 
 Brazil had been preceded by the rumor of an assurance to the Pope 
 that he would bind this Empire ''faster than ever to the chair of 
 St. Peter." The Diario do Bio de Janeiro, a conservative journal 
 always considered the quasi organ of the Government, denounced 
 M. Bedini in firm but respectful language, and insisted that it was 
 
 * I was once dining with a Roman Catholic gentleman in the province of Rio de 
 Janeiro, and, of his own accord, he said to me, "How can I obey the injunctions 
 of my priest ? he reads us the Decalogue, and yet he is the greatest breaker of the 
 seventh commandment." In the province of Bahia I made the acquaintance of a 
 Roman Catholic who had a number of female operatives under his charge, and a 
 chapel connected with his establishment. The priest (who was one of the few 
 moral ecclesiastics in Brazil) died. The proprietor then made known his wish for 
 a new chaplain. Five candidates presented themselves. Four were men whose 
 lives were of such a grossly-immoral character that I dare not insult my readers 
 by the particulars which I received from a member of the Romish Church. The 
 fifth was an old man of good repute, but not very active. As a dernier ressort he 
 was engaged to fill the chaplaincy ; but only a few months elapsed before he was 
 discovered to be living in open concubinage with an abandoned character, and on 
 remonstrance would not give up this sinful union. 
 
MoNsiGNOR Bedini. 143 
 
 the highest imprudence thus to kindle the tires of religious intole- 
 rance. Its columns contained sentiments in regard to this subject 
 of which the following is a specimen: — "Propositions like those 
 emitted from the Chair of Truth by a priest of the character of 
 M. Bedini are eminentl}' censurable." 
 
 The nuncio was put down, but not until one of his friends 
 published what were probably the sentiments of Monsignor, in 
 which he complains of the Emperor for "not taking sides in the 
 controversy and using his influence to prevent the spread of 
 Protestant heresies." 
 
 There is no country in South America where the philan- 
 thropist and the Christian have a freer scope for doing good 
 than Brazil. So far from its being true that a Protestant clergy- 
 man is always tabooed, and that the people " entertain a feeling 
 toward him bordering on contempt/' — as one writer on Bi-azil 
 has expressed it, — I can testify to the strongest friendship formed 
 with Brazilians in various portions of the Empire, — a friendship 
 which did not become weakened by the contact of years or by 
 the plain manifestations and defence of my belief; and I can 
 subscribe to the remark put forth by my colleague in 1845, when 
 he says, — 
 
 "It is my firm conviction that there is not a Eoman Catholic 
 country on the globe where there prevails a greater degree of V 
 toleration or a greater liberality of feeling toward Protestants. • 
 
 "I will here state, that in all my residence and travels in Brazil 
 in the character of a Protestant missionary, I never received the 
 slightest opposition or indignity from the people. As might have 
 been expected, a few of the priests made all the opposition they 
 could; but the circumstance that these were unable to excite the 
 people showed how little influence they possessed. On the other 
 hand, perhaps quite as many of the clergy, and those of the most 
 respectable in the Empire, manifested toward us and our work both 
 favor and friendship. 
 
 "From them, as well as from the intelligent laity, did wo -often 
 hear the severest reprehension of abuses that were tolerated in the 
 religious system and practices of the country, and sincere regrets 
 that no more spirituality pervaded the public mind." 
 
 To one who looks alone at the empty and showy rites of the 
 
144 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Eoman Catholic Church in Brazil, there is no future for the 
 country. But when we consider the liberal and tolerant senti- 
 ments that prevail, — when we reflect upon the freedom of debate, 
 the entire liberty of the press, the difi'usioh of instruction, and the 
 workings of their admirable Constitution, — we cannot believe that 
 future generations of Brazilians will retrograde. Intellectuality 
 without morality is, we are aware, an engine of tremendous power 
 wanting a balance-wheel; but we have faith that God, who has 
 blessed Brazil so highly in other respects, will not withhold from 
 her the greatest boon, however untoward at present may be the 
 prospect of such a bestowment. 
 
 A faithful narrator cannot pass over this subject without giving 
 a brief notice of some of the peculiarities connected with worship 
 
 at the capital, which, to a 
 certain extent, are those 
 witnessed in every pro- 
 vince of the Empire. 
 
 There is no mistaking 
 a priest or any species 
 of ecclesiastics in Brazil. 
 The frades, (monks,) the 
 Sisters of Charity, as well 
 as the priests, have their 
 peculiar costumes, — most 
 of them exceedingly incon- 
 venient in a warm climate. 
 You cannot be an hour in 
 the streets of Eio de Ja- 
 neiro without beholding 
 the jpadre, with his large 
 hat and his closely-but- 
 toned and long gown, 
 moving along with per- 
 fect composure under a 
 hot sun that makes every 
 one else swelter. In the churches, where there generally pervades 
 a cool atmosphere, the padre, with his uncovered, tonsured head, 
 with his thin gowns and airj^ laces, seems prepared for a tropic 
 
 i'M'.m-j:>y-sifyix/> 
 
 THE PADRE. 
 
The Tadre. 145 
 
 clime; but, when the mass is said and his duties are finislied, he 
 doffs his garment of common-sense thickness and dons that which 
 woukl be comfortable in a Northern winter. 
 
 The padre's office is not onerous in Brazil, unless he choose to 
 make it such ; and very few are thus inclined. There are no poor 
 families to visit through rude snow-storms; there is no particular 
 cure of souls, beyond repeating masses in the cool of the morning, 
 the carrying of the Host to the hopeless sick, and attendance 
 at a funeral, for which the carriage and fee are always provided. 
 The confessional does not trouble him greatly, for the people 
 are not much given to confession, knowing too well the charac- 
 ter of the confessor. If he is of an ambitious turn of mind, he 
 becomes a candidate for the Chamber of Deputies, — perchance he 
 succeeds in securing a seat in the Senate, — and there he will jjour 
 out more eloquence, in ore rotundo Lusitanian, than he has ever 
 delivered from the pulpit. Perhaps formerly his heaviest duties 
 were in getting up festivals. They have been wonderfull}'' abridged 
 as to number, but still there is a very respectable share of them, 
 which gives work to the padres and the alms-collectors, and holi- 
 days to clerks, school-children, and slaves. 
 
 Bishop Manuel do Monte Eoderigues d'Araujo, when professor at 
 
 Olinda, published a compendium of moral theology, and he states 
 
 that the number of holidays observed in the Empire of Brazil is 
 
 the same as that decreed by Pope Urban VIII. in 1G42, with the 
 
 addition of one in honor of the patron saint of each province, city, 
 
 town, and parish, for which Urban's decree also provides. These 
 
 holidays are divided into two general classes : — Dias santos de 
 
 guarda, or whole holidays, in which it is not lawful to work; and 
 
 Dias santos dispensados, or half-holidays, in which the ecclesiastical 
 
 laws require attendance upon mass, but allow the people to labor. 
 
 The number of the former varies from twenty to twenty-five, 
 
 according as certain anniversaries fall on a Sabbath or on a 
 
 weekday; while the number of the latter is from ten to fifteen. 
 
 The celebration of these holidays by festivals and processions 
 
 engages universal attention throughout the country; and the 
 
 JSTorth American is constantly reminded of the 4th of July 
 
 minus the patriotic enthusiasm. The number of festivals were 
 
 curtailed within a few years; yet some five or six during the 
 
 10 
 
146 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 year arrest the course of commerce and material duties gene- 
 rally. 
 
 It is particularly observable that all the religious celebrations 
 are deemed interesting and important in proportion to the pomp 
 and splendor which the}^ display. The desirableness of having all 
 possible show and parade is generally the crowning ai'gument 
 urged in all aj^plications for Government patronage, and in all 
 appeals designed to secure the attendance and liberality of the 
 people. 
 
 The daily press of Eio de Janeiro must annually reap enormous 
 sums for religious advertisements, of which 1 give one or two 
 specimens. 
 
 The announcement of a festival in the Church of Santa Rita is 
 thus concluded : — 
 
 "TMsfcsIa is to be celebrated with high mass and a sermon, at the expense of 
 the devotees of the said Virgin, the Most Holy Mother of Grief, who ai'e all invited 
 by the Board to add to the splendor of the occasion by their presence, since they 
 will receive from the above-named Lady due reward." 
 
 The following is the advertisement of a festa up the bay, at 
 Estrella, and is as clumsily put together in Portuguese as it appears 
 in the literal English translation which I have given : — 
 
 "The Judge and some devout persons of the Church of Our Lady of Estrella, 
 erected in the village of the same name, intend to hold a festival there, with a 
 chanted mass, sermon, procession in the afternoon, and a Te Dcum, — all with the 
 greatest pomp possible, — on the 23d instant ; and at night there will be a beautiful 
 display of fireworks. The managers of the feast have asked the Director of the 
 Inhomerim Steamboat Company to put on an extra steamer that will leave the 
 Praia dos Mineiros at eight o'clock in the morning and return after the fireworks. 
 
 "It is requested that all the devotees will deign to attend this solemn act, to 
 
 render it of the most brilliant description. 
 
 "Francisco Pereira Ramos, Secretary. 
 "EsTEELLA, Sept. 17, 1855." 
 
 The following will be to Northern Christians as novel as it is 
 irreverent : — 
 
 " The Brotherhood of the Divine Holy Ghost of San Gon9alo (a small village across 
 the bay) will hold the feast of the Holy Ghost, on the 31st instant, with all possible 
 splendor. Devout persons are invited to attend, to give greater pomp to this act 
 of religion. On the 1st proximo there will be the feast of the Most Holy Sacra- 
 ment, with a procession in the evening, a Te Deuni, and a sermon. On the 2d, — the 
 
Festivals, and Consumption of "Wax. 147 
 
 feaut of the patron of San Gon9aIo,— at three p.m. there will be brilliant horse- 
 racing [!] ; after which, a Tc Dcum and magnificent fireworks." 
 
 But it is not tho Church alone which advertises i\\(i festas. The 
 
 tradesmen, having an eye to business, freely make known their 
 
 ecclesiastic wares through the agency of pubhc journals. The 
 following is a specimen : — 
 
 ''Notice to the Illustrious Preparers of the Festival of the Holy Spirit.— In the Rua 
 dos Ourives, No. 78, may be found a beautiful assortment of Holy Ghosts, in gold, 
 ■with glories, at eighty cents each ; smaller sizes, without glories, at forty cents ; 
 silver Holy Ghosts, with glories, at six dollars and a half per hundred ; ditto, with- 
 out glories, three dollars and a half; Holy Ghosts of tin, resembling silver, seventy- 
 five cents per hundred." 
 
 The language of the last two advertisements seems to us like 
 blasphemy; but, with the Brazilian public, there is a levity and a 
 want of veneration in holy things shocking to all whose religious 
 impressions are derived from the word of God. 
 
 In some particulars the festivals of all the saints are alike. They 
 are universally announced, on the day previous, by a discharge 
 of skyrockets at noon and by the ringing of bells at evening. 
 During the festa, also, — whether it continue one day or nine, — the 
 frequent discharge of rockets is kept up. These missiles are so 
 constructed as to explode high up in the air, with a crackling 
 sound, after which they descend in beautiful curves of white smoke 
 if in the daytime, or like meteoric showers if at night. Dr. Walsh, 
 who had resided a number of years in Turkej^, thought that the 
 Brazilians quite equalled the Turks of Constantinople in their fond- 
 ness for exploding gunpowder on festival occasions. lie, more- 
 over, gives an estimate, by which it would appear that " about 
 seventy-five thousand dollars are annually expended in Eio for 
 gunpowder and wax, — the two articles which enter so largely into 
 all these exhibitions of pomp and splendor." The wax is con- 
 sumed in vast quantities of candles that are kept burning before 
 the different shrines, interspersed with artificial flowers and other 
 decorations. 
 
 Great care is bestowed upon this manner of adorning churches, 
 by day as well as by night. Sometimes regular rows of blazing 
 tapers are so arranged in front of the principal altars as to present 
 the appearance of semicones and pyramids of light streaming from 
 
148 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the floor to the roof of the edifice. These tapers are all made 
 of wax^ imported from the coast of Africa for this express use.. 
 No animal-oils are used in the churches of Brazil : that which sup- 
 plies the lamps is made from the olive or from the palm-nut. The 
 tapers are manufactured from vegetable and bees' wax. 
 
 Nothing is more imposing than the chief altar of the Candellaria 
 Church, when illuminated by a thousand perfumed tapers, which 
 shed their light amid vases of the most gorgeous flowers. Dr. 
 Walsh states that on a certain occasion he counted in the chapel of 
 S. Antonio eight hundred and thirty large wax flambeaux burning 
 at once, and the same night, in that of the Terceira do Carmo, 
 seven, hundred and sixty; so that, in consideration of the number 
 of chapels from time to time illuminated in a similar way, his 
 estimate hardly appears extravagant. 
 
 Sometimes, on the occasion of these festivals, a stage is erected 
 in the church, or in the open air near by, and a species of dramatic 
 representation is enacted for the amusement of the spectators. At 
 other times an auction is held, at which a great variety of objects, 
 that have been provided for the occasion by purchase or gift, are 
 sold to the highest bidder. The auctioneer generally manages to 
 keep the crowd around him in a roar of laughter, and, it is 
 presumed, gets paid in proportion to the interest of his entertain- 
 ment. 
 
 Epiphany is celebrated in January, and is styled the day of 
 kings. The occurrence of this holiday is not likely to escape the 
 mind of the most indifi'erent, for in the morning your butcher 
 kindly sends youi* beef gratis. The festa on that day is in the 
 Imperial Chapel, the Emperor and Court being in attendance to 
 give it a truly royal character. The 20th of January is St. Sebas- 
 tian's day, on which it is customary to honor the "glorious 
 patriarch" under whose protection the Indians and the French 
 were routed, and the foundations of the city laid. The members 
 of the municipal chamber, or city fathers, take especial interest in 
 this celebration, and by virtue of their ofiice have the privilege of 
 carrying the imago of the saint in procession from the Imperial 
 Chapel to the old Cathedral. 
 
 The Intrudo, answering to the Carnival in Italy, extends through 
 the three days preceding Lent, and is generally entered upon by 
 
The Intrudo. 149 
 
 the people with an apparent determination to redeem time for 
 amusement in advance of the long restraint anticipated. 
 
 The Intrudo, however, is no more celebrated as it was when 1 
 first went to llio. It was then a saturnalia of the most liquid 
 character, and every one, — men, women, and children, — gave them- 
 selves up to it with an abandon most strongly in contrast with 
 their usual apparent stiffness and inactivity. Before it was sup- 
 pressed by the police it was a marked event. It was not with 
 showers of sugar-plums that persons were saluted on the days of 
 the Intrudo, but with showers of oranges and eggs, or rather of 
 waxen balls made in the shape of oranges and eggs, but filled with 
 water. These articles were prepared in immense quantities 
 beforehand, and exposed for sale in the shops and streets. The 
 shell was of sufficient strength to admit of being hurled a consi- 
 derable distance, but at the moment of collision it broke to pieces, 
 bespattering whatever it hit. Unlike the somewhat similar sport 
 of snowballing in cold countries, this jogo Avas not confined to 
 boys or to the streets, but was played in high life as well as in low, 
 in-doors and out. Common consent seemed to have given the 
 license of pelting any one and every one at pleasure, whether 
 entering a house to visit or walking in the streets. 
 
 In fact, whoever went out at all on these days expected a duck- 
 ing, and found it well to carry an umbrella; for in the enthusiasm 
 of the game the waxen balls were frequently soon consumed : then 
 came into play s^Tinges, basins, bowls, and sometimes pails of 
 water, which were plied without mercy until the parties were 
 thoroughly drenched. 
 
 Men and women perched themselves along the balconies and 
 windows, from which they not only threw at each other, but also 
 at the passers-by. So great indeed were the excesses which grew 
 out of this sport that it was prohibited by law. The magis- 
 trates of the different districts formally declared against the 
 Intrudo from year to year, with but little effect until 1854, when a 
 new chef de police with great energy put a stop to the violent 
 Intrudo and its peltings and duckings. It is now conducted in a 
 dry but humorous manner, more in the stj'le of Paris and Eome. 
 The origin of the Intrudo was for a long time considered to have 
 some remote connection with ba ptism ; but Mr. Ewbank has beon 
 
150 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the first to trace clearly its beginnirig, and in a very interesting 
 archajological article follows it up to India, that storehouse of 
 many of the practices of the Latin Chui'ch. 
 
 The procession on Ash-Wednesday is conducted by the third 
 order of Franciscans from the Chapel of the J\Iisericordia, through 
 tne principal streets of the city, to the Convent of S.Antonio. 
 Not less than from twenty to thirty stands of images are borne 
 along on the shoulders of men. Some of these images are single; 
 others are in groups, intended to illustrate various events of scrip- 
 tural history or Roman Catholic mythology. The dress and orna- 
 ments of these effigies are of the most gaudy kind. The platforms 
 upon which they are placed are quite heavy, requiring four, six, 
 and eight men to carry them; nor can all these endure the burden 
 for a long time. They require to be alternated by as many others, 
 who walk by their side like extra pall-bearers at a funeral. The 
 streets are thronged with thousands of people, among whom are 
 numbers of slaves, who seem highly amused to see their masters 
 for once engaged in hard labor. The senhors indeed toil under 
 their loads. The images pass into the middle of the street, with 
 single files of men on either side, each one bearing a lighted torch 
 or wax candle several feet in length. Before each group of images 
 marches an angel {arxjinlio) led by a priest, scattering rose-leaves 
 and flowers upon the path. 
 
 As the reader may be anxious to know what kind of angels take 
 part in these spectacles, I must explain that they are a class created 
 for the occasion, to act as tutelary to the saints exhibited. Little 
 girls, from eight to ten years old, are generally chosen to serve in 
 this capacity-, for which they are fitted out by a most fantastic 
 dress. Its leading design seems to be to exhibit a body and wings; 
 wherefore the skirt and sleeves are expanded to enormous dimen- 
 sions, by means of hoops and cane framework, over which flaunt 
 silks, gauzes, ribbons, laces, tinsels, and plumes of diverse coloi-s. 
 On their head is placed a species of tiara. Their hair hangs in 
 ringlets down their faces and necks, and the triumphal air with 
 which they march along shows that they fully comprehend the 
 honor they enjoy of being the principal objects of admiration. 
 
 Military companies and bands of martial music lead and close 
 up the procession. Its march is measured and slow, with frequent 
 
The Anjiniio. 
 
 151 
 
 pauses, as well to give the burdened brethren time to breathe, 
 as to give the people in the streets and windows opportunity to 
 gaze and wonder. Few 
 seem to look on with any 
 very elevated emotions. 
 All could see the same 
 or kindred images in 
 the churches when they 
 please; and, if the design 
 is to edify the people, a 
 less troublesome and at 
 the same time moi'e effec- 
 tual mode might easily bo 
 adopted. There appears 
 but little solemnity con- 
 nected with the scene, 
 and most of that is shared 
 by the poor brethren who 
 tug and sweat under 
 the platforms : even they 
 occasionally endeavor to 
 enliven each other's sjDirits 
 by entering into conversa- 
 tion and pleasantr}' when 
 relieved by their alter- 
 nates. 
 
 When the Host is carried out on these and other occasions, but a 
 small proportion of the people are seen to kneel as it passes, and 
 no compulsion is used when any are disinclined to manifest that 
 deirree of reverence.* 
 
 THE ANJINHO. 
 
 * In 1852 John Candler and Wilson Burgess, two philanthropic Englishmen 
 belonging to the Society of Friends, went to Brazil for the purpose of presenting 
 to the Emperor "an address on slavery and the slave-trade." Their singular cos- 
 tume attracted much notice in the streets ; " and on one occasion," they say in their 
 narrative, "as we were walking in the Rua Direita, a Brazilian gentleman accosted 
 us in imperfect English, informing us that he had been in England, and knew the 
 Quakers. 'They [the Brazilians] ask me,' he continued, 'who you arc; I tell 
 them Friends, — very good people.' Finding him disposed to be familiar, we told 
 
152 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 No class enter into the spirit of these holiday parades with more 
 zeal than the people of color. They are, moreover, specially 
 complimented from time to time by the aj^pearance of a colored 
 saint, or of Nossa Senhora under an ebony skin, "ia vem o meu 
 parerde,'' (There comes my kindred,) was the exclamation heard 
 by Dr. Kidder from an old negro, as a colored effig}-, with woolly 
 hair and thick lips, came in sight; and in the overflow of his joy 
 the old man had expi-essed the precise sentiment that is addressed 
 by such appeals to the senses and feelings of the Africans. 
 
 Palm Sunday in Brazil is celebrated with a taste and effect that 
 cannot be surpassed by any artificial ornaments. The Brazilians 
 are never indifferent to the vegetable beauties by which they are 
 surrounded, since they make use of leaves, flowers, and branches 
 of trees on almost every public occasion ; but on this anniversary 
 the displa}' of the real palm-branches is not ovXj beautiful, but 
 often grand. 
 
 Holy Week, by which Lent is terminated, is chiefly devoted to 
 religious services designed to commemorate the history of our 
 Lord; but so modified by traditions, and mystified by the excess of 
 ceremonies, that few, by means of these, can form ojij proper 
 idea of what really took place before the crucifixion of Christ. 
 The days are designed in the calendar as Wednesday of darkness, 
 Thursday of anguish, Friday of passion, and Hallelujah Saturday. 
 
 Maunday Thui'sday, as the English render it, is kept from the 
 noon of that day till the following noon. The ringing of bells and 
 the explosion of rockets are now suspended. The light of day is 
 excluded from all the churches; the temj)les are illuminated within 
 
 him we were seeking the National Library. ' I will go with you,' he said. Taking 
 us by the arm, he took us by a narrow paved court-way which we had just avoided. 
 A Roman Catholic church, in which high mass was performing, opened by its 
 principal entrance into the court, and a number of persons stood bareheaded before 
 the doors. We requested him not to take us that way, as we could not take oif 
 our hats in honor of the service, and we desired not to give offence. 'Nevermind,' 
 was his rejoinder; 'leave that to me.' On coming to the people he took oflF his 
 Dwn hat, and as we passed through them he said, ' These are my friends ; you 
 must give dispensation ;' and we were suflFered to go on without molestation. Such 
 dispensation is not permitted in Portugal." — Narrative of a recent visit to Brazil by 
 John Candler and Wilson Burgess. London, 1853: Edward Marsh 
 
An Imposing Procession. 153 
 
 by wax tapers, in tho midst of which, on the chief altars, the Host 
 is exposed. Two men stand in robes of red or purple silk to watch 
 it. In some churches the effigy of the body of Christ is laid under 
 a small cloister, with one hand exposed, which tho crowd kiss, 
 depositing mone}' on a silver dish beside it at the same time. At 
 night the people promenade the streets and visit the churches. 
 This is also an occasion for a general interchange of presents, and 
 is turned greatly to the benefit of the female slaves, who are 
 allowed to pi*epare and sell confectionery for their own emolument. 
 Friday continues silent, and a funeral-procession, bearing a repre- 
 sentation of the body of Christ, is borne through the streets. At 
 night occurs a sermon, and another procession, in which anjlnhos, 
 decked out as has already been described, bear emblematic devices 
 alluding to the crucifixion. One carries the nails, another the ham- 
 mer, a third the sponge, a fourth the spear, a fifth the ladder, and 
 a sixth the cock that gave the warning to Peter. Never are the 
 balconies more crowded than on this occasion. There is an interest 
 to behold one's own children performing a part, which draws out 
 hundreds of families who otherwise might remain at home. There 
 is no procession more beautiful and imposing than this. As I gazed 
 at the long line of the gown-clad men, bearing in one hand an im- 
 mense torch, and leading by the other a brightly-decked anjinho, — 
 as from time to time I saw the images of those who were active or 
 silent sjDectators of that sad scene which was presented on Calvary 
 eighteen hundred years ago, — as I beheld the soldiers, helmet in 
 hand and their arms reversed, marching with slow and measured 
 tread, — as I heard the solemn chant issuing from the voice of child- 
 hood, or as the majestic minor strains of the marche fiinebre wailed 
 upon the night-air, — the aBsthetic feelings were powerfully moved. 
 But when a halt occurred, and I witnessed the levity and the utter 
 indifference of the actors, the effect on myself vanished, and I 
 could at once see that the intended effect upon the multitudes in 
 the street and in the neighboring balconies was entirely lost.* 
 
 * In Brazil, all veneration is taken away by the familiarity of the most sacred 
 things of our holy religion. At Bahia I learned, through a number of Roman Ca- 
 tholic gentlemen, of an occurrence which took place in 1855, in the province of 
 Sergipe del Rey. It was at a festival, and there was to be a powerful sex'mon 
 
154 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Hallelujah Saturday is better known as " Judas's day," on account 
 of the numerous forms in which that "inglorious patriarch" is 
 made to suffer the vengeance of the people. Preparations having 
 been made beforehand, rockets are fired in front of the churches at 
 a particular stage of the morning service. This explosion indicates 
 that the hallelujah is being chanted. The sport now begins forth- 
 with in every part of the town. The efiigies of poor Judas become 
 the objects of all species of torment. They are hung, strangled, and 
 drowned. In short, the traitor is shown up in fireworks and fan- 
 tastic figures of every desci'iption, in company with dragons, 
 serpents, and the devil and his imps, which pounce upon him. 
 
 KILLING JUDAS. 
 
 Besides the more formal and expensive preparations that are 
 made for this celebration by public subscrij^tion, the boys and the 
 negroes have their Judases, whom they do feloniously and mali- 
 
 pi'eached on the crucifixion. A civilized Indian, by the promise of muila cacha^a, 
 (plenty of rum,) consented to personify our Saviour on the cross. His position 
 was a trying one, and at the foot of the crucifix stood a bucket filled with rum, 
 in which was a sponge attached to a long reed. The individual whose duty it 
 was to refresh the caboclo forgot his office while carried away by the florid elo- 
 quence of the Padre. The Indian, however, did not forget his contract, and, to tho 
 "istonishment as well as amusement of the audience, shouted out, " Senhor Judeo^ 
 Senhor Judeio, mats fell" (0 Mr. Jew, Mister Jew, a little more gall!) 
 
Collections and Collectors. 
 
 155 
 
 if. If)*, 
 
 ciously drag about with ropes, liang^ beat, punch, stone, burn, and 
 drown, to their hearts' content. 
 
 Lent being- over, Easter Sunday is ushered in b}' the quick and 
 joyous strains of music from fine bands or large orchestras; by 
 illuminating the churches with unwonted splendor; and by the 
 triumphal discharge of rockets in the air, and of artillery from the 
 forts a ad batteries. 
 
 On Whitsunday the great feast of the Holy Spirit is celebrated. 
 In preparation for this, begging-processions go through the streets, 
 a long while in advance, in order to secure funds. In these expedi- 
 tions the collectors wear a red scarf (capo) over their shoulders : 
 they make quite a display of flags, on which forms of a dove are 
 embroidei-ed, surrounded by a halo or gloria. These are handed in 
 at windows and doors, and waved to individuals to kiss: they are 
 followed by the silver plate 
 or silk bag, which receives 
 the donation that is ex- 
 ])ected from all those, at 
 least, \\ ho kiss the emblem. 
 The public are duly no- 
 tified of ihe approacli of 
 these august personages 
 by the music of a band of 
 tatterdemalion negroes, or 
 by the songs and tambour- 
 ine accompaniments of 
 sprightly boys who some- 
 times carry the banner. 
 
 Collections of this stamp 
 are very frequent in the 
 cities of Brazil, inasmuch 
 as some festa is always in 
 anticipation. Generally a 
 miniature image of the 
 saint whose honor is con- 
 templated is handed around 
 
 with much formality, as the great argument in favor of a donation 
 The devotees hasten to kiss the image, and sometimes call up their 
 
 
 COLLECTORS FOR CHURCH FESTIVALS. 
 
156 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 children and pass it round to the lips of each. These collectors, 
 and a class of females called beatas, at times become as troublesome 
 as were the common beggars before they were accommodated at 
 the House of Correction. Occasionally but one or two of these indi- 
 viduals go around, crying out, with a most nasal twang, in the street 
 and at every corner, " Esmolas [alms] para nossa Senhora" of this 
 or that church. (1866, this begging is greatly curtailed.) 
 
 On the preceding page we behold a pair of these semi-ecclesi- 
 astic gentlemen-beggars who may be seen returning along the Praia 
 da Santa Luzia after one of their collecting-excursions. 
 
 The expeditions for Espirito Santo assume a very peculiar and 
 grotesque character in remote sections of the Empire. The late 
 Senator Cuuha Mattos describes them, in the interior, under the 
 Xiame of fulioes cavalgadas. He mentions in his Itinerario having 
 met one between the rivers of S. Francisco and Paranahiba, com- 
 posed of fifty persons, playing on violins, drums, and other instru- 
 ments of music, to arouse the liberality if not the devotion of the 
 people; and also prepared with leathern sacks and mules, to re- 
 ceive and carry off pigs, hens, and whatever else might be given 
 them. 
 
 Among the Indians in the distant interior, the live animals are 
 frequently promised beforehand to some particular saint; and often, 
 when a traveller wishes to buy some provisions, he is assured, " That 
 is St. John's pig;" or, "Those fowls belong to the Holy Ghost." 
 
 The procession of Corpus Christi is different from most of the 
 others. The only image exposed is that of St. George, who is set 
 down in the calendar as the "defender of the Empire." How this 
 "godly gentleman of Cappadocia" became the defender of Brazil 
 I have not been able to ascertain ; but his festival — falling as it 
 does on Corpus Christi day — is celebrated with great pomp. It is 
 a daylight affair, and occurs in the pleasantest season of the year. 
 St. George is always carried around the city on horseback. He is 
 ruddy and of a fair countenance, with a flowing wig of flaxen curls 
 floating on his shoulders. He flourishes in armour and a red velvet 
 mantle. For the day some devout person of his name lends the 
 saint his jewels; but when the festival is over he is stripped of his 
 glories and put away for the moths till the following year. He is 
 not remarkable for his horsemanship: his stiff legs stick out on 
 
Santa Priscilliana. 
 
 157 
 
 ^0 
 
 each side, and two men hold him to the saddle. If his prototyjie 
 had been no better equestrian, the dragon would have been un- 
 killed to the present day. 
 
 The Emperor walks bareheaded, and carrying a candle, in this 
 procession, in imitation of the piety of his ancestors, and is attended 
 by tlie Courtjthecavalhciros, orknights of the military orders, and 
 the municipal chamber in full dress, with their insignia and badges 
 of office. Whenever the Emperor goes out on these occasions, the 
 inhabitants of the streets through which he is to pass rival each 
 other in the display of rich silk and damask hangings from the 
 windows and balustrades of their houses. 
 
 In 1846, a certain Brazilian had the distinguished honor of trans- 
 porting from Eome to Eio 
 the holy remains of the 
 martyr-virgin St. Priscil- 
 liana. This was deemed a 
 most auspicious acquisition 
 for the city by some, but 
 by othei-s it was highly 
 condemned as an egregious 
 humbug. Nevertheless, she 
 was inaugurated. In order 
 that the bones might not 
 appear as repulsive as those 
 of the renowned "eleven 
 thousand virgins" in the 
 Church of St. Ursula at 
 Cologne, the frail remains 
 of St. Priscilliana were en- 
 cased in wax by some clever 
 artist at Rome at the time 
 her saintship was said to 
 have been removed from 
 the catacombs where she 
 had been buried more than 
 a thousand years ! 
 
 St. Priscilliana's likeness was engraved, and the picture was 
 " exchanged}" and the above engraving is a fac-simile of the one 
 
 SANTA PRISCILLIANA. 
 
158 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 "exchanged" while I resided in Pdo de Janeiro. She is represented 
 with a sword stuck unpleasantly through her delicate neck, which 
 meanS; as the Bishop of Eio de Janeiro* hath it, that the Emperor 
 Julian the Apostate had her put to death in this manner ! The 
 erudite bishop does not give us any of his authorities; but the faithful 
 are expected never to entertain the least doubt when a high prelate 
 Bpeaks. I know not what miracles she has performed at Eio, for 
 very little is heard concerning her at present, and it is certain that 
 she did not prevent the yellow fever and cholera from visiting the 
 capital of the Empire. It may, however, be asserted, on the other 
 hand, that this was not the department of St. Priscilliana; as St. 
 Sebastian is supposed to have the city under his especial charge. 
 
 When the cholera visited the coast of Brazil, though not so fatal 
 as in Europe and the United States, yet its ravages were somewhat 
 extensive among the slaves, who had escaped the yellow fever 
 which in former years had attacked the whites. When the cholera 
 made its appearance at Eio, the city was in a universal wail 
 of terror: charms and amulets were eagerly sought after, and 
 superstitious preventives were invented every hour. Prayers of 
 saints were worn next to the skin, as the}' are among the Moham- 
 medans of Arabia or the heathen of India. Badly-executed pic- 
 tures of St. Sebastian were ^'exchanged" for a few vintems, and a 
 Btar, with a prayer to the Virgin Mary, called ''The miraculous 
 Star of Heaven," was considered a certain safeguard to any person 
 who possessed it. Advertisements like the following appeared in 
 the daily papers : — 
 
 ORACAO PARA BENZER AS CASaI 
 
 contra a epidemia reinante, oi-nada de emblemas religiosos, 
 troca-se por 80 rs., na Rua dos Latoeiros n. 59. 
 
 "J. Prayer for blessing residences against the reigning epidemic, 
 adorned with religious emblems, is exchanged for four cents at !No. 
 59 Eua dos Latoeiros." 
 
 * Pastoral letter published March, 1846, at Rio de Janeiro. Also Noticia Hisiorica 
 da Santa Priscilliana in the Annuario do Brazil for 1846. 
 
Panic fiiom the Cholera. 159 
 
 The succeeding announcement, however, must have been from 
 some money-making fellow without church-policy in his head, 
 or he would have advertised his holy ware as troca-se instead 
 of vende-se. 
 
 PALAVRAS SANTISSiMAS 
 
 contra o terrivel flagello da peste, com a qual se tem appla- 
 cado a Divina Justi5a, como se vio no caso que succedeu no 
 real mosteiro de Santa Clara de Coimbra em 1480. Vendc-se 
 na Rua da Quitanda n. 174. Pre90, 320 rs. 
 
 [Translation.] ^^Ilost holy words and arms of the Church against 
 the terrible scoui'ge of the pest, with which Divine Justice chas- 
 tises, as seen in the case which succeeded in the ro3"al monastery 
 of St. Claire of Coimbra in 1480. To be sold at No. 174 Eua da 
 Quitanda. Price, 16 cents." 
 
 What Dr. Paulo Candido, Dr. Meirelles, Dr. Sigaud, Dr. Pacheco 
 da Silva, and other eminent physicians, thought of such remedies 
 we know not; but we believe that both they and many of the 
 people of Eio de Janeiro looked uj)on this religious quackery in the 
 right light. Nevertheless, there was, in the general alarm, a great 
 summoning of the church militant, and the newspapers of Septem- 
 ber, 1855, are full of long-sentenced notices of penitential proces- 
 sions. 
 
 Such appeals to the faithful were not in vain. The images were 
 removed and carried through the streets; and torchlight-proces- 
 sions of immense length — in which marched delicate ladies bare- 
 foot — were of frequent occurrence. With all these precautions, the 
 pestilence did not cease, though business went on as usual. Common 
 sense, however, had not left Eio, notwithstanding the panic which 
 prevailed. The secular authorities, urged on by the able editor of 
 the principal newspaper of the city, at last forbade all processions, 
 as the exposure consequent thereon tended to promote the spread 
 
160 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of disease; so the saints had no more promenades by lamplight, 
 and the young ladies kept their bare feet at home. 
 
 It is pleasing to contemplate at this crisis the conduct of the 
 monarch. The Emperor and his family remained at their palace 
 near the city, in order to inspirit the people, although it was the 
 usual time of removal to their mountain-residence of Petropolis. 
 His Majesty visited the hospitals, and superintended the sanatory 
 regulations, besides contributing largely to the fund for the sick 
 poor. 
 
 We cannot devote more space to religion in Brazil, — this interest- 
 ing but painful subject, — painful to every true Christian and well- 
 wisher to his race. If we look at Brazil in the point de vue religieuse, 
 we are overwhelmed at the amount of ignorance and superstition 
 that prevails. Let any one read Mr. Ewbank's Sketches, and, they 
 will see, archseologically considered, how close is the relation be- 
 tween heathen Eome and Christian Eome. If we grant that this 
 corrupt church at one time \v,A the only light and knowledge, 
 there is no necessity that we should remain in modified darkness 
 or use the glimmer of lamplight when we may have the clear efful- 
 gence of the noonday sun. May that light beam upon Brazil! 
 
 Note for 1SG6. — There are several native Protestant churches now in Brazil. 
 The regularly ordained pastors of these churches are legally authorized to per- 
 form the marriage ceremony. The clause of the constitution in regard to religious 
 toleration has been fully tested on three different occasions, and is shown to be 
 a "living letter." — The Imprensa Evangelica is the bi-monthly religious journal 
 of the Protestants at Rio, and is reasonably successful. Several faithful preachers 
 of the gospel from Europe and North America are now laboring with encouraging 
 success. In Appendix I will be found a remarkable article from the Roman 
 Catholic editor of the "Anglo-Brazilian Times," on the necessity of removing 
 from Brazilian law disabilities in regard to civil and mixed marriages, and to 
 Protestant representation in Parliament. 
 
CUAVTER X. 
 
 TJIE nOME-FEKLING BRAZILIAN HOUSES THE GIKL THE WIFE THE MOTHER — 
 
 MOORISH JEALOUSY — DOMESTIC DUTIES — MILK-CART ON LEGS BRAZILIAN LADY'S 
 
 DELIGHT — HER TROUBLES THE MARKETING AND WATERING — KILL THE SLYO 
 
 BOSTON APPLES AND ICE FAMILY RECREATIONS THE BOY THE COLLEGIO 
 
 COMMON-SCHOOLS HIGHEST ACADEMIES OF LEARNING THE GENTLEMAN DUTIES 
 
 OF THE CITIZEN ELECTIONS POLITICAL PARTIES BRAZILIAN STATESMEN — NO- 
 BILITY — ORDERS OF KNIGHTHOOD. 
 
 The German, the Englishman, and their descendants, have no 
 characteristic more marked than the home-feeling. The fireside- 
 circle, with its joys and cares, does not helong to the Gaul or to the 
 Italian. The Southern European has much in his delicious climate 
 to make him an out-of-door heing. The old Eoman was one who 
 lived in public. His existence seemed to be a portion of the forum, 
 the public bath, the circus, and the theatre. "Without books, maga- 
 zines, and newspapers, without letters to write, and witli a fine 
 climate always attracting him into the open air, there was nothing 
 to call him homo but the requisitions of eating and sleeping." 
 The city of Pompeii probably contained not more than twenty-five 
 thousand inhabitants, and only one-sixth of its space has been ex- 
 humed. In that small district there have been found public edifices 
 merely for theatrical entertainment, which will seat seventeen 
 thousand spectators. Most of the nations descended from the Ro- 
 mans are, like them, without the endearing associations connected 
 with the word home. There is, however, an important exception 
 to this rule in the case of the Portuguese nation, which in every 
 other respect is more Eoman than any living people. The home 
 and the family exist; and doubtless the Lusitanians owe this to the 
 Moors, who engrafted upon the Latin stock something of Oriental 
 exclusiveness. The Portuguese and their American descendants 
 to this day watch with a jealous eye their private abodes, and, 
 
 spending many of their hours within those precincts which are 
 
 11 161 
 
162 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 their castles, the home-attachments and family associations have 
 been cherished and perpetuated. 
 
 1 propose in this chapter to consider the residence and the family, 
 — to trace the education of the children to that age when they go 
 forth to occupy the position of adult j'ears. 
 
 The city-home is not an attractive place; for the carriage-house 
 and stable are upon the first floor, while the parlor, the alcoves, and 
 
 the kitchen are in the second 
 _ story. Not unfrequently a small 
 
 area or court-yard occupies the 
 space between the coach-house 
 and the stable, and this space 
 separates, on the second floor, the 
 kitchen from the dining-room. 
 
 The engraving represents one 
 
 of the older city-residences at 
 
 Eio. The access to the staircase 
 
 is through the great door whence 
 
 the carriage thunders out on 
 
 festas and holidays. At night it 
 
 is shut by iron bars of prison-like 
 
 dimensions. Every lock, bolt, 
 
 or mechanical contrivance seem 
 
 as if they might have come from 
 
 the Pompeiian department of the Museo Borbonico at Naples. The 
 
 walls, composed of broken bits of stone cemented by common mortar, 
 
 are as thick as those of a fortress. 
 
 In the daytime you enter the great door and stand at the 
 bottom of the staircase; but neither knocker nor bell announce 
 your presence. You clap your hands rapidly together; and, 
 unless the family is of the highest class, you are sure to be saluted 
 b}^ a slave from the top of the stairs with "Quein e?" (\Yh() is 
 there?) If you should behold your friends in the balcony, you not 
 only, if intimate, salute by removing the hat, but move quickly 
 the fingers of your hand, as if you were beckoning to some one. 
 
 The furniture of the parlor varies in costliness according to the 
 degree of style maintained; but what you may always expect to 
 find is a cane-bottomed sofa at one extremity and three or four 
 
 OLDER BRAZILIAN DWELLING-HOUSE. 
 
Ladies and Music. 163 
 
 chairs arranged in precise parallel roAVS, extending from each end 
 of it toward the middle of the room. In company the ladies are 
 expected to occupy the sofa and the gentlemen the chairs. 
 
 The town-residences in the old city always seemed to me gloomy 
 beyond description. But the same cannot be said of the new 
 houses, and of the lovely suburban villas, with their surroundings 
 of embowering foliage, profusion of flowers, and overhanging 
 fruits. Some portions of the Santa Theresa, Laraiigeiras, Bota- 
 fogo, Catumby, Engenho Velho, Praia Grande, and San Domingo, 
 cannot be surpassed for beautiful and picturesque houses. I cite 
 ])articularly the homes of M. Maximo de Souza, and Mr. Ginty. ' 
 
 There are various classes of society in Brazil as well as else- 
 where, and the description of one would not hold good for another; 
 but, having sketched the house, I shall next endeavor to trace the 
 inmates from infancy to adult life. 
 
 The Brazilian mother almost invariably gives her inflmt to a 
 bhack to be nursed. As soon as the children become too trouble- 
 some for the comfort of the senhora, they are despatched to school; ■ 
 and woe betide the poor teachers who have to break in those viva- 
 cious specimens of humanity ! Accustomed to control their black 
 nurses, and to unlimited indulgence from their parents, they set 
 their minds to work to contrive every method of baffling the 
 efforts made to reduce them to order. This does not arise from 
 malice, but from want of parental discipline. They are affectionate 
 and placable, though impatient and passionate, — full of intelligence, 
 though extremely idle and incapable of prolonged attention. They 
 readily catch a smattering of knowledge : French and Italian are 
 easy to them, as cognate tongues with their own. Music, sing- 
 ing, and dancing suit their volatile temperaments; and I have 
 rarely heard better amateur Italian singing than in Eio de Janeiro 
 and Bahia. Pianos abound in every street, and both sexes become 
 adept performers. The opera is maintained by the Government, 
 as it is in Europe, and the first musicians go to Brazil. Thalberg 
 triumphed at Eio de Janeiro before he came to New York. The 
 manners and address of Brazilian ladies are good, and their carriage 
 is graceful. It is true that they have no fund of varied knowledge 
 to make a conversation agreeable and instructive; but they chatter 
 nothings in a pleasant way, always excepting a rather high tone 
 
164 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of voice, which I suppose comes from frequent commands given to 
 Congo or Mozambique. Their literary stores consist mostly of the 
 novels of Balzac, Eugene Sue, Dumas pere et fils, George Sand, the 
 gossipping pacotilhas and the folhetins of the newspapers. Thns 
 they fit themselves to become wives and mothers. 
 
 Dr. P. da S , a gentleman who takes a deep interest in all 
 
 matters of education, and whose ideas are j)ractically and success- 
 fully applied to his own children, who possess solid acquirements 
 as well as graceful accomplishments, once said to me, "I desire with 
 all my heart to see the day Avhen our schools for girls will be of 
 such a character that a Brazilian daughter can be prepared, by her 
 moral and intellectual training, to become a worthy mother, capable 
 of teaching her own children the elements of education and the 
 duties which they owe to God and man : to this end, sir, I am 
 toiling." Such schools are increasing, and some are very excel- 
 lent; but, in eight cases out often, the Brazilian father thinks that 
 he has done his duty when he has sent his daughter for a few years 
 to a fashionable school kept by some foreigner : at thirteen or four- 
 teen he withdraws her, believing that her education is finished. 
 If wealthy, she is already arranged for life, and in a little time thie 
 father presents to his daughter some friend of his own, with the 
 soothing remark, "Minha filha, this is your future husband." A 
 view of diamonds, laces, and carriages dazzles her mental vision, 
 she stifles the small portion of heart that may be left her, and 
 quietly acquiesces in her father's arrangement, probably consoling 
 herself with the reflection that it will not be requisite to give her 
 undivided affections to the affianced companion, — -that near resem- 
 blance of her grandfather. Now the parents are at ease. The 
 care of watching that ambitious young lady devolves on her hus- 
 band, and thenceforth he alone is responsible. He, poor man, 
 having a just sense of his own unfitness for such a task, places 
 some antique relative as a duenna to the young bride, and then 
 goes to his counting-house in happy security. At night he returns 
 and takes her to the opera, there to exhibit the prize that his contos* 
 
 * A conto of reis is one thousand mili-eis, — equal to five hundred dollars. The 
 Brazilian never reckons a man's wealth by saying, " He is worth so many thousand 
 milreis;" but, "He has so many conlos." 
 
The Wife and Mother. 
 
 165 
 
 have gfiined, and to receive the congratulations of his friends on 
 the lovely young wife that he has bought. "'Tis an old tale;" 
 and Brazil has not a monopoly of such marria,q[es. 
 
 Then the same round of errors recommences : her children feel 
 the effects of the very system that has rendered the mother a 
 frivolous and outward being. She sallies forth on Sundays and 
 festas, arm-in-arm with her husband or brother, the children pre- 
 ceding, according to their age, all dressed in black silk, with neck 
 and arms generallj^ bare, or at most a light scarf or cape thrown 
 over them, their luxui-iant hair beautifully arranged and orna- 
 
 GOING TO MASS. 
 
 mented, and sometimes covered with a black lace veil : prayer- 
 book in hand, they thus proceed to church. Mass being duly gone 
 through and a contribution dropped into the poor-box, they return 
 home in the same order as before. 
 
 It is often matter of surprise to Northerners how the Brazilian 
 ladies can support the ra3's of that unclouded sun. Europeans 
 glide along under the shade of bonnets and umbrellas; but these 
 church-going groups pass on without appearing to suffer. The 
 bonnet is, however, becoming the prevailing mode. 
 
 You remark, in these black-robed, small-waisted young ladies, a 
 contrast to the ample dame who follows them. A Brazilian matron 
 
166 Brazil axd the Brazilians. 
 
 generally waxes Avondrously broad in a few years, — probably owing 
 to the absence of out-door exercise, of which the national habits 
 deprive her. It cannot be attributed to any want of temperance.; 
 for we must always remember that Brazilian ladies rarely take 
 wine or any stimulant. On " state occasions," when healths are 
 drunk, they only touch it for form's sake. During many years of 
 residence, I cannot recall a single instance of a lady being even 
 suspected of such a vice, which, in their eyes, is the most horrible 
 i-eproach that can be cast upon the character. Estd bebado, (He is 
 drunk,) — pronounced in the high and almost scolding pitch of a 
 Brazilian woman, — is one of the severest and most withering re- 
 proaches. In some parts of the country the expression for a dram 
 is um baeta Inglez, (an English overcoat ;) and the term for an in- 
 toxicated fellow, in the northern provinces, is Mle estd bem Inglez, 
 (He is very English.) The contrast between the general sobriet}' of 
 all classes of Brazilians and the steady drinking of some foreigners 
 and the regular "blow-out" of others is painful in the extreme. 
 
 "Wives in Brazil do not suffer from drunken husbands ; but many 
 of the old Moorish prejudices make them the objects of much 
 jealousy. Thei-e is, however, an advance in this respect; and, far 
 more frequently than formerly, women are seen out of the church, 
 the ballroom, and the theatre. 
 
 JSTevertheless, — owing to the prevailing opinion that ladies ought 
 not to appear in the streets unless under the protection of a male 
 relative, — the lives of the Brazilian women are dull and mono- 
 tonous to a degree that would render melancholy a European or 
 an American lady. 
 
 At eai'ly dawn all the household is astir, and the principal work 
 is performed before nine o'clock. Then the ladies betake them- 
 selves to the balconies for a few hours, to "loll about generally," 
 to gossip with their neighbors, and to look out for the milkman 
 and for the quitandeiras. The former brings the milk in a cart 
 of novel construction to the foreigner, — or at least he has never 
 seen such a vehicle used for this purpose before going to Brazil. 
 The cow is the milk-cart ! Before the sun has looked over the 
 mountains, the vacca, accompanied by her calf, is led from door to 
 door by a Portuguese peasant. A little tinkling bell announces 
 her presence. A slave descends with a bottle and receives an 
 
The Milk-Cart and Quitandeira. 
 
 167 
 
 allotted portion of tho rcfresliing fluid, for which he pays about 
 Bixpeuce English. One would suppose that all adulteration is thus 
 avoided. The inimitable 
 Punch says, if in the hu- 
 man world the " child is 
 father to the man," in the 
 London world the pump is 
 father to the cow, — judg- 
 ing from the results, {i.e. 
 the milk sold in that vast 
 metropolis.) Alas ! man- 
 kind is the same in Brazil 
 that it is in London. Milk 
 may be obtained pure from 
 the cow if you stand in 
 the balcony and watch the 
 operation; otherwise your 
 bottle is filled from the tin 
 can carried by the Opor- 
 toense, and which can has 
 oftentimes a due propor- 
 tion of the water that 
 started from the top of 
 Corcovado and has gurgled 
 down the aqueduct and 
 through the fountain at the corner of the street. 
 
 The qultandeiras are the venders of vegetables, oranges, guavas, 
 maracujas, (fruits of the "passion-flower,") mangoes, doces, sugai'- 
 cane, toys, &c. They shout out their stock in a lusty voice, and 
 the different cries that attract attention remind one of those of 
 Dublin or Edinburgh. The same nasal tone and high key may be 
 noticed in all. Children are charmed when their favorite old black 
 tramps down the street with toys or doces. Here she comes, with 
 her little African tied to her back and her tray on her Lead. 
 She sings, — 
 
 <' Cry meninas, cry meninos, 
 Papa has money in plenty, 
 Come buy, ninha, ninba, come buy !" — 
 
 ^■^-^^v-., 
 
 THE QUITANDEIRA. 
 
168 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and, complying with tlae invitation, down run the little mcninos 
 and meninas to buy doces doubly sugared, to the evident destruction 
 of their gastric juices and teeth. Be it remarked, en passant, that 
 no profession has more patronage in Rio than that of dentistry. 
 
 At length there appears at the head of the street that charm of 
 a Brazilian lady's day, — the pedlar of silks and muslins. He an- 
 nounces his approach by the click of his covado, (measuring-stick,) 
 and is followed by one or moi-e blacks bearing tin cases on their 
 
 heads. He walks up-stairs 
 r7;;2^ f-^'-^T I sure of a welcome ; for, if 
 
 I ||i| I they need nothing of his 
 
 wares, the ladies have 
 need of the amusement of 
 looking them over. The 
 negroes deposit the boxes 
 on the floor and retire. 
 Then the skilful Italian or 
 Portuguese displays one 
 thing after another; and 
 he manages very badly if 
 he cannot prevail on the 
 economical lady to become 
 the possessor of at least 
 one cheap bargain. As to 
 payment, there is no 
 need of haste: he will 
 call again next week, or 
 take it by instalments, — 
 just as the senhora finds 
 best; only he should like 
 senhora to have that dress, 
 — it suits her complexion so well; he thought of the senhora as 
 eoon as he saw it ; and the price, — a mere nada. Then, too, he 
 has a box of lace, some just made, — a new pattern for the ends 
 of towels, — insertion for pillow-cases, and trimmings for under- 
 garments. 
 
 Some families have negresses who are taught to manuflxcture 
 this lace, — the thread for which is brought from Portugal, — and 
 
 THE BRAZILIAN LADY'S DELIGHT. 
 
The Housekeeper's Troubles. 169 
 
 their fair owners make considerable profit by exchanging the })ro- 
 ducts of their lacc-cushious for articles of clothing. One kind of 
 needlework in which they excel is called crivo. It is made by 
 drawing out the threads of fine linen and darning in a pattern. 
 The towels that are presented to guests after dinner arc of the 
 most elaborate workmanship, consisting of a broad band of crivo 
 finished by a trimming of Avide Brazilian thread-lace. 
 
 These Italian and Portuguese pedlars sell the most expensive 
 and beautiful articles. A Brazilian lady's wardrobe is almost 
 wholly purchased at home. Even if she do not buy from the 
 mascate, she despatches a black to the Eua do Ouvidor or Eua 
 da Quitanda, and orders an assortment to be sent up, from which 
 she selects what is needed. The more modern ladies begin to wear 
 bonnets, but these are always removed in church. Almost every 
 lady makes her own dresses, or, at least, cuts them out and 
 arranges them for the slaves to sew, with the last patterns from 
 Paris near her. She sits in the midst of a circle of negresses, for 
 she well knows that " as the eye of the master maketh the horse 
 fat," so the eye of the mistress maketh the needle to move. She 
 answers to the description of the good woman jn the last chapter 
 of Proverbs: — "She riseth up while it is yet night, and giveth a 
 portion to her maidens j she maketh fine linen [crivo and lace] and 
 selleth it;" and, though her hands do not exactly lay hold on the 
 spindle and distaif, yet " she looketh well to the ways of her house- 
 hold, and eateth not the bread of idleness," always excej)ting that 
 taken on the balcony. 
 
 We may infer that the habits of servants were the same in Solo- 
 mon's time as in Brazil at the present day, judging by the amount 
 of trouble they have always given their mistresses. A lady of 
 high rank in Brazil declared that she had entirely lost her health 
 in the interesting occupation of scolding negresses, of whom she 
 possessed some scores, and knew not what occupation to give them 
 in order to keep them out of mischief A lady of noble family 
 one day asked a friend of mine if she knew any one Avho desired 
 to give out washing, as she (the senhora) had nine laz}^ servants at 
 home for whom there was no employment. She piteously told her 
 story, saying, " We make it a principle not to sell our slaves, and 
 they are the torment of my life, for I cannot find enough work to 
 
170 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 keep them out of idleness and mischief." Another, a marchioness, 
 said that her blacks "would be the death of her." 
 
 Slavery in Brazil, setting aside any moral consideration of the 
 question, is the same which we find the "world over," — viz.: It is 
 an expensive institution, and is, in every way, very poor economy. 
 When I have looked upon the careless, listless work of the bond- 
 man, and have watched the weariness of flesh to the owner, 1 have 
 sometimes thought the latter was most to be pitied. Any cruelty 
 that may be inflicted upon the blacks by the whites is amply 
 avenged by the vices introduced in families, and the troublesome 
 anxiety given to masters. 
 
 One of the trials of a Brazilian lady's life is the surveillance of 
 the slaves who are sent into the streets for the j^urpose of market- 
 ing and carrying water. 
 
 The markets in Eio are abundantly supplied with all kinds of 
 fish and vegetables. Of the former there are many delicate species 
 unknown in the North. Large prices are given for the finer kinds. 
 One called the garopa is much sought for as a piece de resistance for 
 the supper-table on a ball-night. Fifty milreis (about twenty-five 
 dollars) are given on such occasions. A fish is always the sign of 
 a casa de pasto, or common restaui*ant, at Eio. 
 
 The market near the Palace Square is a pleasant sight in the 
 cool of the morning. Fresh bouquets shed a fragrance around, and 
 the green vegetables and bright fruits contrast well with the dark 
 faces of the stately Mina negresses who sell them. . " What is the 
 price of this?" "Wliat will the senhor give?" is the common 
 reply; and woe betide the first efforts of a poor innocent ship's- 
 steward in his early attempts at negotiation with these queenly 
 damsels, whose air seems to indicate that with them to sell or not 
 to sell is equally indifferent and beneath their notice. 
 
 The indigenous fruits of the country are exceedingly rich and 
 various. Besides oranges, limes, cocoanuts, and pineapples, which 
 are well known among us, there are mangoes, bananas, fruitas de 
 conde, maracuja, pomegranates, mammoons, goyabas, jambos, 
 aragas, cambocas, cajus, cajas, mangabas, and many other species 
 whose names are Hebrew to Northern ears, but which quickly 
 convey to a Brazilian the idea of rich, refreshing, and delicate 
 fruits, each of which has a peculiar and a delicious flavor. 
 
Marketing. 
 
 171 
 
 With such a variety to supply whatever is to be desired, in view 
 of either the necessaries or luxuries of life, none need complain. 
 These articles arc found in profusion in the markets, and also 
 hawked about through the town and suburbs by slaves and free 
 negroes, who generally carry them in baskets upon the head. 
 Persons who wish to purchase have only to call them by a sup- 
 pressed whistle, (something like pronouncing imperfectly the word 
 tissue,) which they universally understand as an invitation to walk 
 in and display their stock. 
 
 
 
 THE EDIBLE PALM, (EUTERPE EDULIS.) 
 
 In an outer circle of the market mentioned you find small shops 
 filled with birds and animals. Here gay macaws and screaming 
 parrots keep up a perpetual concert with chattering apes and 
 diminutive monkeys. At a little distance outside are huge piles of 
 oranges, panniers of other fruits ready to be sold to the retailer and 
 the ([ultatideiras, wicker-baskets filled with chickens and bundles of 
 
172 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 palmito for cooking. It makes one sad to think that the procuring 
 of these pahnito-sticks has destroyed a graceful pahn, (^Euterpe 
 edulis;) but what is there that we are not ready to sacrifice to 
 that Maelstrom, the stomach r' One of those beautiful trees I 
 sketched at Constancia, fifty miles from Eio. It was not straight, 
 as we usually find it, but gracefully curved ; and, as it lifted its 
 slender form and tufted summit above the tropic forest, it presented 
 a ])icture of such uncommon loveliness, that day after day I visited 
 the spot to drink my fill of beauty. 
 
 Here comes the black cook, Jose, or Cajsar, basket on arm, 
 counting with his fingers, and bent on beating down to the lowest 
 
 price the white-teethed 
 Ethiopian who pre- 
 sides, in order that he 
 may have a few vin- 
 tems, filched from his 
 master, to spend, as he 
 returns home, in the 
 purchase of a little 
 cachaya, "pa?~a matar 
 bixo," (''to kill the 
 beast.") What this 
 much-feared animal is 
 has never been ascer- 
 tained ; but certainly, 
 judging from the pro- 
 tracted effort that is 
 required to kill him, he 
 must be possessed of 
 remarkable tenacity of 
 life, — a sort of phoenix 
 among animals ! The 
 fish, vegetables, fruit, 
 and Indispensable chickens, being purchased to his satisfaction, he 
 next goes to the street appropriated to the butchers. Here he hnyn 
 some beef, lean but not ill-flavored, an apology for mutton easily 
 mistaken for patriarchal goat, or a soft, pulpy substance, considered 
 a. great delicacy, (appropriately termed, by the Emerald Islanders, 
 
Eating and Drinking. 173 
 
 •'staggering Bob,") — the flesh of an unfortunate calf that had 
 scarcely time to look at the blue sky ere it was consigned to the 
 butcher's knife. Then he proceeds to the venda to purchase the 
 little dose for his hixo, and wends home, in high good-humor, to 
 prepare breakfast. 
 
 In many families a cup of strong coffee is taken at sunrise, and 
 then a substantial meal later in the morning. Dinner is usually 
 served about one or two o'clock, — at least where the hours of 
 foreigners have not been adopted. Soup is generally presented, 
 and afterward meat, fish, and pastry at the same time. Except at 
 dinners of ceremony, an excellent dish, much relished by foreigners, 
 alwa3's finds a place on a Brazilian table. It is compounded of the 
 feijiio, or black beans of the country, mingled with some came secca 
 (jerked beef) and fat pork. Farinha, or mandi oca-flour, is sprinkled 
 over it, and it is worked into a stiff paste. This farinha is the bread 
 for the million, and is the principal food of the blacks throughout 
 the country, who would consider it much deteriorated by being eaten 
 in any other manner than with the fingers. It is an excellent and 
 nutritious diet, and with it they can endure the hardest labor. Coffee 
 or mate are often taken after dinner, and the use of tea is becoming 
 more common. The "cha nacional" bids fair to rival that of 
 China; but the mate, though not generally used in the Middle and 
 Northern provinces, is considered more wholesome than tea, being 
 less exciting to the nerves. Some families have supper frequently 
 of fish ; but in others nothing substantial is taken after dinner, and 
 they retire very early to rest. Rio is as quiet at ten o'clock p.m. 
 as European cities at two in the morning. Even the theatre-goers 
 make but little noise, as they are generally on foot, — at least if they 
 reside in the city. So much do the places of public amusement 
 depend on the pedestrians, that if the evening is decidedly rainy 
 it is usual to postpone the performance until another night. It 
 must be remembered that half an hour's rain transforms the streets 
 of Eio into rushing canals, all the drainage being on the surface. 
 On a drenching day, the pretos de ganho, or portei-s, who lounge at 
 the corner of every street, make a good harvest by carrying people 
 on their backs across these impromptu streams. Sales are often 
 announced with this condition : — "The weather permitting." 
 
 One of the greatest delights for the black population of Rio is 
 
174 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the necessity of carrying water from the chafariz or public foun- 
 tain, or from the water-pipe which is at the corner of almost every 
 street. Blackcy lazily lounges out with his barril under his arm, 
 and happy is Congo if he espies a long queue of his compatriots 
 awaiting their turn at the stopcock. Here the news of their little 
 
 world is told amid bursts 
 of Ethiopian laughter; or 
 a small flirtation is car- 
 ried on with Eosa or 
 Jouquinha from the next 
 street; or perhaps there 
 is an upbraiding lecture 
 administered by some 
 jetty damsel from Angola, 
 whose voice, to his con- 
 sternation, is by no means 
 pianissimo. There is an- 
 other out-door affair much 
 more congenial : i.e. many 
 a sly attempt to kill the 
 bixo is made at the ad- 
 joining venda while the 
 water pours into the bar- 
 rils of the earlier comers. 
 Some mistresses, how- 
 ever, who find that their 
 cooks have always to wait 
 for the water, make arrangements with the water-carriers, who 
 perambulate the streets with an immense hogshead mounted on 
 wheels and drawn by a mule. This vehicle, during a fire, (not a 
 frequent occurrence,) is required to supply the fire-engines. These 
 men are generally natives of Portugal or the Azores, and seem 
 eminently qualified by nature to be hewers of wood and drawers 
 of water. They carry the water up-stairs and pour it into large 
 earthen jars, which bring to mind the waterpots.at the marriage 
 of Cana in Galilee. The huge earthen vases are arranged on 
 stands in places where there is a cun-ent of air, and the liquid 
 element in them thus acquires a coolness which, though not equal 
 
 THE ANGOLIAN'S REPROACH. 
 
Family Recreations. 
 
 176 
 
 to the iced water of the United States, possesses a delightful 
 frigidity. Ice is in Brazil an expensive luxury, brought solely 
 from North America, and not in general use even in Eio, and, of 
 course, unknown in the country. Boston apples and ice are both in 
 the highest esteem ; but the latter was rejected, as altogether un- 
 wholesome, upon its introduction in 1833, and the first cargo was 
 a total loss to the adventurers. At the present time both com- 
 mand a good price; and in the month of January the quitandeiras 
 may be heard crying out lustily, " Magiias Araericanas," (American 
 apples,) which they sell for five or six vintems each 
 
 THE ILHEO WATER-VENDER. 
 
 The Fluminensian lady has occasionally some respite from slave- 
 watching and household cares, when the senhor takes her to Petro- 
 polis or Tijuca, or perhaps gives her a few weeks of fresh air at 
 Constancia or Nova Fribourgo. Such visits are not, however, so 
 frequent as one would wish, and the senhora must content herself 
 with festas, the opera, and a ball, as a relief from her usual round 
 of duties. An evening-party in Eio generally means a ball. Fami- 
 liar intercourse with the higher families is difficult of attainment by 
 foreigners; but when the stranger is admitted he is received en 
 famille, and all ceremony is laid aside. In such home-circles the 
 evenings are often spent in music, dancing, and games of romps. 
 
176 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Here men of highest position are sometimes seen unbending their 
 stiff exteriors, and joining heartily in innocent mirth. A game 
 called "pilha ires" is a favorite, and is quite as wild and noisy as 
 "pussy wants a corner." An American gentleman informed me 
 that on one occasion he joined in this play with a Minister of the 
 Emj)ire, the Viscountess, (his wife,) two Senators, an ex-Minister- 
 plenipotentiary, three foreign Charges d'Affaires, and the ladies 
 and children of the family. No one feared any loss of dignity by 
 thus laying aside, for the moment, his ordinary gravity, and all 
 seemed to enjoy themselves in the highest degree. 
 
 The Brazilians have large families, and it is not an uncommon 
 thing to find ten, twelve, or fifteen children to a single mother. I 
 saw a gentleman — a planter — in the province of Minas-Geraes, who 
 was one of twenty-four children by the same mother. I afterward 
 was j)resented to this worthy matron at Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 I am persuaded that there is much of the home-element among 
 the Brazilians. Family fete-days and birthdays are celebrated 
 with enthusiasm. Though the standard of general morality is very 
 much lower than that of the United States and England, I believe 
 it to be above that of France, and there is a home-feeling diffused 
 among all classes, which tends to render the Brazilian a more 
 order-loving man than the Gaul. "With a pure religion his excel- 
 lencies would make him infinitely superior to the latter. 
 "^ The education of the Brazilian boy is better than that of his 
 sister. There is, however, a great deal of superficiality : he is 
 made a "little old man" before he is twelve years of age, — having 
 his stiff black silk hat, standing collar, and cane; and in the city 
 he Avalks along as if everybody were looking at him, and as if he 
 were encased in corsets. He does not run, or jump, or trundle 
 hoop, or throw stones, as boys in Europe and North America. At 
 an early ago he is sent to a collegio, where he soon acquires the 
 Fi-ench language and the ordinary i-udiments of education in the 
 Portuguese. Though his parents reside in the city, he boards in 
 the collegio, and only on certain occasions does he see his father or 
 mother. He learns to write a "good hand," which is a universal 
 accomplishment among the Brazilians; and most of the boys of the 
 higher classes are good musicians, become adepts in the Latin, and 
 many of them are taught to speak English with creditable fluency. 
 
^1 
 
"Professores," Colleqios, and Schools. 177 
 
 The examination was formei'ly a great anniversary, when the little 
 fellows were starched up in their stilfest clothes and their minds 
 were "crammed" for the occasion. Tlie boys acted their j)arts, and 
 the various professores, in exaltation of theii' office, read or delivered 
 meiiwriter speeches to the admiring parents; and the whole was 
 wound up by some patron of the school crowning with immense 
 wreaths the "good boj^s" wdio stood highest during the session. 
 The colleglo then took a vacation of a few weeks, and commenced 
 again with its boarders, the "very young gentlemen" students 
 But these things have greatly changed for the better, and many 
 collegios are ably conducted. 
 
 The principals of these establishments, when gifted with good 
 administrative capacities, reap large sums. One with whom 1 
 was acquainted had, after a few years' teaching, 20,000$000 (ten 
 thousand dollars) placed out at iiiterest. The professores do not 
 always reside in the collegio, but teach by the hour for a stipulated 
 sum, and are thus enabled to instruct in a number of schools during 
 the day. The English language has become such a desideratum at 
 Eio, that every collegio has liQ prof essor Inglez. 
 
 There has recently been a great improvement in the collegios 
 as well as in the public schools. The professores were sum- 
 moned, by a commission under the Superintendent of Public 
 Instruction, to appear at the Military Academy, and there to be 
 examined as to their qualifications for giving instruction. If 
 they passed their examination, which was most rigid, they re- 
 ceived a license to teach, for which they had to pay a certain 
 fee. The principals also were required to undergo an examina- 
 tion, if the commission should think it proper; and they Avei'e not 
 permitted to carry on their collegios without a certificate. The 
 educational authorities also asserted their right to visit these pri- 
 vate academies at any hour of the day or night, to examine the 
 proficiency of the scholars at any time during the term, to investi- 
 gate their sleeping-apartments, their food, and whatever apper- 
 tained to their mental or physical well-being. This was not a 
 mere threat, but schools were actually visited, and some were 
 reformed more rapidly than agreeably. The system of ''cram- 
 ming" was in a measure broken up, and the Empire thus took 
 under its control the instruction given in the private as well as in 
 
 12 
 
178 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the public aulas. This educational innovation at the capital is 
 owing to the energetic measures taken by the Visconde de Ita- 
 borahy, and Dr. Manoel Pacheco da Silva, who is at present the 
 President of the first classical institution of Eio de JaneirO; the 
 Imperial College of D. Pedro IT. The note of reform was sounded ; 
 every duty connected with teachers or scholars was fully in- 
 vestigated, and the revolution was made, notwithstanding the 
 complaints of professores who were degraded as incompetent, 
 and parents who found their children rigidly examined and only 
 promoted in the public schools after convincing proofs of real 
 progress. 
 
 There is a common-school system throughout the Empire, more 
 or less modified by provincial legislation. The General Government 
 during the years 1854-55 educated 65,413 children: there were 
 probably as many more of whom we have no Government report, 
 who were educated by private tuition and under provincial 
 authority. "When, therefore, we consider the number of slaves and 
 Indians in Brazil, and also when we reflect that the common-school 
 system is in its infancy, it is an encouraging proportion. There 
 are great defects in these elementary schools, but each year they 
 are improving. There seems to be an inquiry among the educated 
 men and the statesmen as to the plan best adapted to the country. 
 This inquiry is not always confined to the highest class of citizens. 
 Once in the interior I was aroused from my slumbers by a loud 
 knocking at the door. I hastily opened it, and saw a respectably- 
 dressed Brazilian, who informed me that he was a school-teacher, 
 and, learning that an American was in the village and would leave 
 that morning, he had made bold to come at this early hour (the 
 sun was just peeping over the palm-trees) to ask me if I could 
 either give him an account of the American system of teaching, or 
 could send him documents on that subject. In the same place 
 another teacher spoke to me of Horace Mann's reports on the com- 
 mon schools of Massachusetts ! 
 
 Great ignorance prevails in a large portion of the population, and, 
 though many years may elapse before a tolerable degree of know- 
 ledge will be properly diffused, yet the beginning has been made, 
 and the French proverb is true in this as in other things, ''Ce 71' est 
 que le premier pas qui coute." (It is only the first step that costs.) 
 
CoLLEGio OF Pedro II. 179 
 
 In the city of Eio, instruction can bo divided into the following 
 classes : — the primary, the secondary, (instru(;uo secundaria,) and 
 the private schools, (coUegios.) The College of Pedro II., the 
 Military and Naval Academics, the Medical College, and the 
 Tlieological Seminary of St. Joseph, are also under the direction 
 of the State. In the private schools are nearly five thousand 
 scholars. 
 
 Through some one of these establisnments the juvenile Brazilian 
 ascends the hill of knowledge. An institution already referred to, 
 which of late has awakened more interest than any other in the 
 capital of Brazil, was organized in the latter jxirt of 1837, under 
 the name of Collegio de Dom Pedro 11. It is designed to give a 
 complete scholastic education, and corresponds, in its general plan, 
 to the lyceuras established in most of the provinces, although in 
 endowment and patronage it is probably in advance of an}" of 
 those. There was at the opening an active competition for the 
 professorships, eight or nine in number. All of them are said to 
 have been creditably filled. The concourse of students was very 
 considerable from the first organization of the classes. A point 
 of great interest connected with this institution is the circum- 
 stance that its statutes provide expressly for the reading and study 
 of the Holy Scriptures in the vernacular tongue. For some time 
 previous to its establishment, copies of the Scriptures had been 
 used in the other schools and seminaries of the city, where they 
 were not likely to be less prized after so worthy an example ou 
 the part of the Emperor's College. The Eev. Mr. Spaulding (who 
 was the clerical colleague of Dr. Kidder at Rio de Janeiro) had an 
 application to supply a professor and an entire class of students 
 with Bibles; to which he cheerfully acceded, by means of a grant 
 from the Missionary and Bible Societies 
 
 The Military and Naval Academies are for the systematic in- 
 struction of the young men destined to either branch of the public 
 service. At fifteen years of age, any Brazilian lad who under- 
 stands the elementary bi'anches of a common education, and the 
 French language so as to render it with facility into the national 
 idiom or Portuguese, may, on personal application, be admitted to 
 either of these institutions. I have never witnessed a more in- 
 teresting scene than the assembling o£ these young men for their 
 
180 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 morning recitations. It carried me back to the North,}rn uni 
 versities, so much vigor and spirit did the Brazileiro students 
 manifest in their sports and repartees, or in their explanations to 
 each other of difficult points of geometry and engineering which 
 were soon to be brought before their professors. 
 
 The regular army of Brazil is about twenty-two thousand men. 
 The national guard consists nominally of more than foui- hundred 
 thousand men. 
 
 The Naval Academy was formerly on board a man-of-war ai 
 anchor in the harbor, and introduced its pupils at once to life upon 
 the water. 1865, the academj^ is removed to the city. 
 
 The Imperial Academy of Medicine occupies the large build- 
 ings near the Morro do Castello, and is attended by students in 
 the different departments, to the number of more than three hun- 
 dred. A full corps of professors, several of whom have been edu- 
 cated in Europe, occupy the different chairs, and, by their reputa- 
 tion, guarantee to the Brazilian student an extensive course of 
 lectures and study. The institution is in close connection with 
 the Hospital da Misericordia, which at all times offers a vast field 
 for medical observation. 
 
 The Theological Seminary of St. Joseph has less attraction for 
 the Brazilian youth than an}' other educational establishment 
 at Eio. 
 
 The 3'oung Brazileiro, (of course we speak of the gentleman's 
 hon,) after leaving his collegia, enters the Medical Academy, or, 
 having a warlike inclination, becomes a middy or a cadet, or he 
 possibly ma}' enter the Seminary of St. Joseph. If he has a legal 
 turn, he is sent to the Law Schools at S. Paulo or Pernambuco. 
 The young Brazilian likes nothing ignoble : he prefers to have a 
 gold lace around his cap and a starving salary to the cares and 
 toils of the counting-room. The Englishman and German are the 
 wholesale importers, the Portuguese is the jobber, the Frenchman 
 is the coiffeur and fancy dealer, the Italian is the pedlar, the Portu- 
 guese islander is the grocer, the Brazilian is the gentleman. Every 
 place in the gift of the Government is fall of young attaches, from 
 the diplomatic corps down to some petty office in the custom- 
 house. The Brazilian, feeling himself above all the drudgery of 
 life, is a man of leisure, and, looks down in perfect contempt upon 
 
The Brazilian Gentleman. 181 
 
 the foreigner, who is ahvaj'S grumbling, fretting, and busj'. The 
 Brazilian of twentj'-fivo is an exquisite. He is dressed in the last 
 Paris fashion, sports a fine eane, his hair is as smooth as brush can 
 make it, his moustache is irreproachable, his shoes of the smallest 
 and glossiest pattern, his diamonds sparkle, his rings are unexcep- 
 tionable : in short, he has a high estimation of himself and his 
 clothes. Ilis theme of conversation may be the opera, the next 
 ball, or some young lady whose father has so many cantos. 
 
 In spite of all drawbacks, many of these men, in after-life, — 
 whether in the diplomatic circle, in the court -room, in the House 
 of Deputies, or in the Senate, — show that they are not deficient in 
 talent or in acquirements. They can almost all turn a sentence 
 well, rhjnne when thej- choose, or make a fine ore rotundo speech, 
 echoed by the apoiados of their companions. Some few become fine 
 scholars, and more of them are readers than are generally supposed. 
 Man}'' of them travel for a year or two, and are educated in Europe 
 or in the United States. The interest which the Brazilians, wnth 
 D. Pedro II. at their head, are now manifesting in learned societies, 
 — whose ranks are recruited from the very class mentioned, — de- 
 monstrates that the *' little old men" of twelve have not all turned 
 out "froth ;" though too much of the vain, the light, and the super- 
 ficial must be predicated of the Brazilian, who looks upon cards, 
 balls, and the opera as essential portions of his existence. From 
 such men you would not expect much of the ''sterner stuff" which 
 enters into the structure of great statesmen. Nevertheless, the 
 countr}^ has made wonderful progress; and it must be added, that 
 from time to time there have arisen from the lower ranks of society 
 men of power, who have become leaders. There is nothing in the 
 origin or the color of a man that can keep him down in Brazil. 
 
 It must be borne in mind that the Brazilian thus described is 
 not the portrait of the large majorit}^ of the citizens of the Empire, 
 but of one from the higher classes as generally found in the cities. 
 There are exceptions; but the same religion and the same mode 
 of thinking have, to a greater or less degree, given a similaritj"" 
 to all who comprise the upper ranks of society, and from whom 
 come the magistrates, officers, diplomatists, and legislators. Their 
 greatest defect is not the want of a polished education, but of a 
 sound morality, a pure religion. Without these, a man may be 
 
182 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 atniable, refined, ceremonious; but their absence makes him irre- 
 sponsible, insincere, and selfisli. As nations are made up of indi- 
 viduals, it should be the ardent desire of every Christian and 
 philanthropist that this Southern people, which have so favorably 
 set out in their national career, may have that which is far higher 
 than mere relinenient or education. 
 
 The duties of the Brazilian citizen are clcarlj^ defined in the 
 Constitution and by-laws of the Emj^re. Each male citizen who 
 has attained his majority is entitled to a vote if he possess an 
 income of one hundred mih-eis. Monks, domestics, individuals not 
 in the receipt of lOOSOOO rent, and, of course, minors, are excluded 
 from voting. Deputies to the Assemblea Geral are chosen, through 
 electors, for four years. The Senator, who holds his position for 
 life, is elected in a manner somewhat different from the Deputado. 
 Electors, chosen by popular suffrage, cast their ballots for candi- 
 dates aspiring to the senatorial office. The names of the three 
 who stand highest on the list are handed to the Emperor, who 
 selects one; and thus he who has been chosen through the people, 
 electors, and the Emperor, takes his chair for lifetime in the Bra- 
 zilian Chamber of Peers. There seems to have been great wisdom 
 in all these conservative measures, and their excellencies are the 
 more enhanced when we examine the vai'ious laws and qualifica- 
 tions that pertain to elections and candidates in the States of 
 Spanish America. The Chamber of Deputies consists of one 
 hundred and eleven members, and the Senate, according to the 
 Constitution, must contain half that number. The provincial 
 legislators are chosen directly by the people. 
 
 An election in Brazil is not very dissimilar to an election in the 
 United States. Eio de Janeiro is divided into ten or twelve parishes 
 {freguezias) or wards. A list of voters in each parish is posted up 
 for some weeks before an election, and the Government designates 
 clerks and inspectors for the various freguezias. The elections are 
 held in churches. Upon an American expressing to a Brazilian his 
 surprise in regard to this seeming inconsistency in a Roman Ca- 
 tholic country,— where the importance put upon the visible temple 
 is as great as if it were the very gate of heaven, — no satisfactory 
 reply was obtained. The only theory by which the Fluminensian 
 attempted to account for it was on the supposition that when the 
 
Elections and Political Parties. 183 
 
 Constitutional Government was adopted it was deemed advisable 
 to give a solemnity to the act of voting, — that men in the sacred 
 edifice and before the altar would be restrained from acts of violence, 
 and would be otherwise more guarded than in a secular building. 
 Experience, however, has shown that political rancor will i-ide over 
 all religious veneration; for it is said that on certain occasions, in 
 some of the provinces, the exasperated electors have seized the tall 
 candlesticks and the slender images from the altar to beat conviction 
 into the heads of their opponents. 
 
 A ballot-box, in the shape of a hair trunk, is surrounded by the 
 clerks and inspectors; the vote is handed to the presiding officer; 
 the name of the voter is checked, and the ballot is then deposited. 
 Groups of people, active electioneerers and vote-distributers, may 
 be seen in and around the church, like the crowds of the "unterri- 
 fied" near the polls in the United States. The Government has 
 great power in the elections through the numerous office-holders in 
 its employ ; but ofttimes it suffers a defeat. The supreme authori- 
 ties have the right to set aside an election in cases of violence or 
 fraudulent procedure. 
 
 The parties are the ins and the outs, or Government and 
 Opposition. The party -lines were formerly more closely drawn, 
 under the names of Saquaremas, (the Conservatives,) and Luzias, 
 (the Progressives..) These names are derived from two unim- 
 portant freguezias in the provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Minas- 
 Geraes. 1866, the Liberals are now the ins. 
 
 These parties for some years contended for power and principle, 
 and so warm were their struggles that at times they seemed to 
 battle more for rule than for the success of jDriuciples. The Luzias 
 endeavored to promote the w^elfare of Brazil by adopting laws and 
 regulations for which the Saquaremas did not think the country 
 yet prepared. Both struggled for many years, and alternately held 
 the reins of government : at last the Saquarema party triumphed, 
 and from 1848 to 1864 was at the head of affairs. (1866, parties are 
 now called Liberal and Conservative.) 
 
 In 1854 the two parties were nearly reconciled, there being few 
 dissidents. This was owing to the wise policy of the Saquaremas. 
 They made very good use of their great influence; they adopted 
 some of the ideas of their opponents; and they promoted to 
 
184 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Government employment a number of the Luzias who were men 
 of acknowledged ability and probity. 
 
 This reconciliation was mostly owing to the political tacticii 
 of the late JMarquis of Parana, who was a most skilful politician 
 and a fluent speaker. He was an instance of a man of talent 
 reaching by his industry and energ}' the highest position in the 
 gift of the monarch and peoi^le. He knew well how to employ 
 intrigue, and his moral character was by no means spotless; yet at 
 his death, in September, 1856, party-spirit was laid aside, the faults 
 of the man were covered, and the energy and talent of the states- 
 man only were remembered. 
 
 Among the distinguished politicians and orators of Brazil may 
 be counted the Marquis of Olinda, (Pedro de Araujo Lima,) who 
 was educated at the Portuguese University of Coimbra, and has 
 dedicated more than thirty years of his life to the service of his 
 country. He was Regent during the minority of the Emperor, and 
 has been at various times a member of the Cabinet. 
 
 The Marquis d'Abrantes, (Miguel Calmon du Pin,) a skilful dijDlo- 
 matist, consummate financier, and a distinguished orator, was at 
 different periods a member of the Cabinet, and made himself still 
 better known by a volume giving an account of his diplomatic mission 
 in Euroj^e. The Marquis d'Abrantes was President of one of the 
 most useful and important societies in Brazil, — A Sociedade Auxilia- 
 dora da Industria Nacional, — a voluntary company of gentlemen 
 whose object is to advance the agricultural and mechanical and 
 mineral interests of the country, by importing model implements, 
 by correspondence with agriculturalists and manufacturers in all 
 parts of the world, by combating indifference and indolence 
 and every unprofitable routine of cultivation, and by developing 
 the resources of the country. He died in 1865. 
 
 Among the veteran statesmen may be mentioned Senator Yer- 
 gueiro, (once Regent during the minority of D. Pedro II.,) who has 
 materially advanced the prosperitj^ of his country by promoting, at 
 his own expense, European immigration. A fuller sketch of this 
 noble octogenarian is found in another chapter. (Died 1860.) 
 
 The Visconde de Uruguay (Paulino Jose Soares de Souza) was 
 formerly a leader in Brazilian politics, and was Minister of Foreign 
 Affairs when the cruel Dictator Rosas was overthrown by the 
 
Brazilian Statesmen and ^Nobility. 185 
 
 combined Brazilian and Argentine armies and was expelled from 
 Biu'uos Ayres. He died in 1866. 
 
 The Visconde de Itaborahy (Joaquim Jose Eodriges Torres) is a 
 skilful financier, who has been frequently a member of the Cabinet; 
 and it is to him that are due the reforms in the public treasury and 
 the creation of a national bank. lie has recently been engaged in 
 2)ronioting the interests of education, and in reforming public in- 
 stitutions. His views about steamers and railways are narrow. 
 
 The Visconde de Abaete (Antonio Paulino Limpo do Abreo) has 
 been many times Minister of Foreign Affairs, and is a brilliant and 
 persuasive orator. 
 
 The Visconde de Sepetiba, (Aui-eliano de Souza Oliveii-a,) who 
 has also been frequently a member of the Cabinet, was one of the 
 first who promoted the organization of companies to execute dif- 
 ferent enterprises of internal improvement. (Died 1855.) 
 
 The present (1857) Minister of Marine (Joao Mauricio Wan- 
 derl}^) was President for three years of the province of Bahia, and 
 directed its affairs with so much energy and prudence that he fully 
 earned the honor of being called by the Emperor to take part in 
 the Cabinet. (He is now Baron de Cotegipe.) 
 
 Zacarias de Goes e Vasconcellos, former President of the new 
 province of Parana, is a brilliant orator, and was called to a place 
 in the Cabinet which went out in 1853. (Premier in 1864. and 66.) 
 
 Luis Pedi-eira do Coutto Ferraz, though comparatively a young 
 man, has been called to places of high honor and trust, and in 
 1854-57 filled the important post of Minister of the Empire. 
 
 The Marques de Caxias — the Minister of War in the Cabinet 
 which had so long been at the head of affairs — was, at the death of 
 the Marques of Parana, placed by the Emperor over the Department 
 of Finance. He is a gentleman of ability, affable in his manners, 
 and distinguished as the commander-in-chief of the Brazilians in the 
 war against Rosas, and, in 1865-66, of the forces against Paraguay. 
 
 The Visconde de Jequitinhonha, (Montezuma,) as a politician, 
 diplomatist, and lawj-er, ranks among the first men of the Emj)ire. 
 (1865, he made strong Emancipation speeches.) 
 
 Brazil has always been well represented in foreign lands, and 
 her diplomatic corps is not, like that of the United States, recruited 
 from mere political partisans, but its members are fitted for their 
 
186 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 posts by education, discipline, and graduation, in the same "manner 
 as the dij^lomatic ranks of Enghmd and France. 
 
 Among them no one stands higher than the Baron of Penedo, 
 who represented Brazil in the United States from 1852 to 1855. 
 This gentleman distinguished himself as an advocate at Bio de 
 Janeiro, and is now Brazilian minister at the court of St. James. 
 He is a man of varied culture and enlarged, statesmanlike views. 
 
 These are only a few of the leading men of the Empire, and 
 want of space alone prevents the mention of many more. 
 
 Titles of nobility have been often used iu the foregoing pages, 
 and demand a further explanation. 
 
 Nobility in Brazil is not hereditary, but bene merito, and has no 
 landed interest or political influence. If a Brazilian has distin- 
 guished himself by his statesmanship, his valor, or his philanthropy, 
 and he receives patent of nobility from the Emperor, his sou does 
 not thereby become noble. The title is lost to the family at the 
 death of its possessor. The titles of nobility are six, — viz. : Mar- 
 ques, Count, Viscount com grandeza, Baron com grandeza, Yiscount, 
 and Baron. There are six orders of knighthood. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — We have elsewhere mentioned the names of other Brazilian 
 statesmen, but we cannot forbear to refer to Visconde de Camaragibe, a conser- 
 vative leader of Pernambuco ; to Sr. Sinimbti, a judge, senator, and minister; 
 Sr. Paranhos, distinguished as senator, diplomatist, minister, and orator; and Sr. 
 Souza Franco, senator from Para. Sr. Octaviano ranks high as a writer, speaker, 
 and diplomatist. The brothers Ottoni are well known, one as a political leader, 
 the other as a promoter of internal improvements. Silveira da Motta has great 
 honor for steps taken to abolish slavery. Nabuco, as minister and senator, is a 
 gentleman of great prominence. Saraiva, late Minister of Foreign Affairs, is a 
 man of ability, frankness, and energy. He was master of the situation; and the 
 affairs of Brazil iu the war with Pai-aguay received a new impulse by the change 
 of cabinet which brought Saraiva into power. Sr. Sa e Albuquerque is a pro- 
 mising young statesman. The Baron of Prados, a man of rare scientific attain- 
 ments, presided with dignity over the Deputies in 1864-65. Jose Bonifacio, Pedro 
 Luiz, Junqueira, and many others, are rising men. Martinho Campos is a deputy 
 of great independence, and of enlarged views. A. C. Tav;ires Bastos, the youngest 
 Brazilian statesman, has attracted much attention at home and abroad by his 
 liberal policy in regard to commerce, education, and administrative reform. 
 Among the leading diplomats not already mentioned are the Lisboas, at Paris and 
 Brussels, and Sr. d'Azambuja, so long Brazilian Under-Secretary of State, now at 
 Washington. Sr. C. F. Ribeiro, deputy from Maranham, is au alumnus of Yale 
 
CnAPTER XL 
 
 PRAIA GRANDE SAN DOMINGO — SABBATH-KEEPING — MANDIOCA PONTE DE AREA 
 
 VIEW FROM INGA — THE ARMADILLO COMMERCE OF BRAZIL — THE FINEST STEAM- 
 SHIP VOYAGE IN THE WORLD;— AMERICAN SEAMEN's FRIEND SOCIETY THE ENG- 
 LISH CEMETERY ENGLISH CHAPEL BRAZILIAN FUNERALS TIJUCA — BENNETX's 
 
 — CASCADES — EXCURSIONS BOTANICAL GARDENS — AN OLD FRIEND — HOME. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro, sometimes called A Corte (the Court) by the 
 ]}raziliaiis, while situated within the province of the same name, 
 is only the capital of the Empire. Praia Grande, on the opposite 
 side of the bay, is the capital of the province of Eio de Janeiro. 
 The latter city is in a neutral district, like the District of Columbia 
 in the United States, and all the laws of this metropolis, as those 
 of ^Yasllington, emanate from the General Government. 
 
 Ferry-boats, resembling those in the United States, run half- 
 hourly between the Court and Praia Grande, touching at the white 
 little village of San Domingo. The passage is made in thirty 
 minutes, and gives a fine view of the entrance to the harbor, the 
 whole water-line of Eio, and the various anchorages for the ship- 
 ping. These American boats were introduced by Dr. Rainey. 
 
 Praia Grande and San Domingo stretch around a semicircular 
 
 bay, and probably contain about sixteen thousand inhabitants. 
 
 On account of the quietness and cheaper rents, many prefer this 
 
 side of the water to the urbs JIuminis as a place of residence. I here 
 
 frequentlj' held religious services, and the Sabbath seemed more 
 
 like a day of rest than in Eio, where so many shops are open and 
 
 the people generally given to amusement. In regard to the holy 
 
 keeping of the day of rest the Brazilians are no more scrupulous 
 
 than their co-religionists in France or Italy. Militar}' parades are 
 
 as frequent upon that day as any other; and operas, theatres, and 
 
 balls are probably more crowded than during the evenings of 
 
 secular time. The foreign wholesale establishments are closed; 
 
 187 
 
188 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 but many of the native shopkeepers, and nearly all of the small 
 French dealers, make as great a display, in the morning at least, as 
 on Monday or Saturday. It must, however, be admitted to the 
 credit of the Brazilians that they have made great imjjrovements 
 in this respect. Formerly there was no closing of the smaller 
 places of business on Sunday, and that day, until within a few 
 years, was the favorite of the week for holding auction-sales. This 
 the authorities suppressed by edict; and in 1852, a number of the 
 Brazilian jobbers, by an agreement, {convenio,) for a while ab- 
 stained from Sunday dealings; but this move was b}' no means so 
 apparent as the sujDjDression of the auctions. In the discussion 
 which arose in regard to Sabbath-keeping, the BishojD of Rio de 
 Janeiro, and the leading journals, took an active part. ISotwith- 
 standing all these ameliorations, the Lord's day is one of amuse- 
 ment and business, so far as Brazilians are concerned; and its 
 profanation is such as to shock even those who are not accustomed 
 to the decent observance of that portion of time in England, Scot- 
 land, or the United States. 
 
 In Praia Grande and S. Domingo there are beautiful chacaras, 
 (country-seats,) and quiet, shad}^ nooks, whose delicious fragrance 
 and coolness contrast refreshingly with the hot landing-place of 
 the steam fei'ry-boat. 
 
 Twenty minutes' walk from the praia (beach) will bring us into 
 the sparsely-inhabited environs, where we ma}^ see the coffee-tree, 
 with its cheny-like berries, the noble dome-shaped mangueira, 
 whose fruit is esteemed so highly by the English in the East Indies, 
 and orange-trees, whose rich, yellow burdens never become weari- 
 some to the eye or cloying to the palate. There, too, we may see 
 fields of the mandioca, which plant has been and is as much asso- 
 ciated with the sustcntation of life in Brazil as wheat in moi*e 
 northern climes. This vegetable, {Jatropha vianihot L.,) being the 
 pi'incipal farinaceous production of Brazil, is deserving of i:)articulai 
 notice. Its peculiarity is the union of a deadly poison with highly- 
 nutritious qualities. It is indigenous to Brazil, and was known to 
 the Indians long before the discovery of the country. Southey 
 remarks: — "If Ceres deserved a i)lace in the mythology of Greece, 
 far more might the deification of that person have been expected 
 who instructed his fellows in the use of mandioc," It is difiicult 
 
The Mandioca Root. 
 
 189 
 
 to imagirie how savages should have ever discovered that a whole- 
 some loud might be prepared from this root. 
 
 Their mode of prepai-ation was by scraping it to a fine pulp with 
 oyster-shells, or with an instrument made of small sharp stones set 
 in a piece of bark, so 
 as to form a rude 
 rasp. The pulp was 
 then rubbed or ground 
 with a stone, the juice 
 carefully expressed, 
 and the last remain- 
 ing moisture evapor- 
 ated by the fire. The 
 operation of prepar- 
 ing it was thought 
 unwholesome, and the 
 slaves, whose busi- 
 ness it was, took the 
 flowers of the nhariibi 
 and the root of the 
 urucu in their food, 
 •''to strengthen the 
 heart and stomach." 
 
 The Portuguese 
 soon invented mills 
 and presses for this 
 purpose. They usually 
 pressed it in cellars, 
 and places where it 
 
 was least likely to occasion accidental harm. In these places it is said 
 that a white inficct was found generated by this deadly juice, itself 
 not less deadly, with which the native women sometimes poisoned 
 their husbands, and slaves their masters, by putting it in their 
 food. A poultice of mandioc, with its own juice, was considered 
 excellent for imposthumes. It was administered for worms, and 
 was applied to old wounds to eat away the diseased flesh. For 
 some poisons, also, and for the bite of certain snakes, it was 
 esteemed a sovereign antidote. The simple juice Avas used for 
 
 MANDIOCA, (JATROPHA M A N I H T.) 
 
190 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 cleaning iron. The poisonous quality is confined to the root; for 
 the leaves of the plant are eateii, and even the juice might bo 
 made innocent by boiling, and be fermented into vinegar, or inspis- 
 sated till it became sweet enough to serve for honey. 
 
 The crude root cannot be ]5reservcd three days by any possible 
 care, and the slightest moisture spoils the flour. Piso observes, 
 that he had seen great i-avages occasioned among the trooj^s by 
 eating it in this state. There were two modes of preparation, by 
 which it could more easilj- be kept. The roots were sliced under 
 water, and then hardened before a fire. When wanted for use, 
 they were grated into a fine powder, Vhich, being beaten up with 
 water, became like a cream of almonds. The other method was 
 to macerate the root in water till it became putrid, then hang it 
 iij) to be smoke-dried; and this, when pounded in a mortar, j)ro- 
 duced a flour as white as meal. It was frequently pT'cj^ared in this 
 manner by savages. The most delicate prejiaration was by pressing 
 it through a sieve and putting the pulp immediately in an earthen 
 vessel on the fire. It then granulated, and was excellent when 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 The native mode of cultivating it was rude and summary. The 
 Indians cut down the forest-trees, let them lie till they were dry 
 enough to burn, and then planted the mandioc between the stumps. 
 They ate the dry flour in a manner that bafiled all attempts at 
 imitation. Taking it between their fingers, they tossed it into 
 their mouths so neatly that not a grain was lost. No Eui'opean 
 ever tried to perform this feat without powdering his face or his 
 clothes, to the amusement of the savages. 
 
 The mandioc supplied them also with their banqucting-drink. 
 They prepared it by an ingenious process, which savage man has 
 often been cunning enough to invent, but never cleanly enough to 
 reject.. The roots were sliced, boiled till they beqamc soft, and set 
 aside to cool. The young women then chewed them, after which 
 they wore returned into the vessel, which was filled with water, 
 and once more boiled, being stirred the whole time. "When this 
 process had been continued sufficiently long, the unstrained con- 
 tents were poured into earthen jars of great size, and buried up 
 to the middle in the floor of the house. The jars were closely 
 stopped, and, in the course of two or three days, fermentation took 
 
Tapioca. 191 
 
 place. They liad an old superstition that if it were made by men 
 it would bo good for nothing. When the drinking-day arrived, 
 the women kindled fires around these jars, and served out the 
 warm potion in half-gourds, which the men came dancing and 
 singing to receive, and always emptied at one draught. They 
 never ate at these parties, but continued drinking as long as one 
 drop of the liquor remained, and, having exhausted all in one 
 house, removed to the next, till they had drank out all in the town. 
 These meetings were commonly held about once a month. De Lery 
 witnessed one which lasted three daj's and three nights. Thus, 
 man, in every age and country, gives proof of his depravity, by 
 converting the gifts of a bountiful Providence into the means of 
 his own destruction. 
 
 Mandioca is difficult of cultivation, — the more common species 
 requiring from twelve to eighteen months to ripen. Its roots have 
 a great tendency to spread. Cut slips of the plant are inserted in 
 large hills, which at the same time counteract this tendency, and 
 furnish it with a dry soil, which the mandioca prefers. The roots, 
 when dug, are of a fibrous texture, corresponding in appearance to 
 those of the long parsnip. The process of preparation is first to 
 wash them, then remove the rind, after which the pieces are held 
 by the hand in contact with a circular grater turned by water- 
 power. The pulverized material is then placed in sacks, several 
 of which, thus filled, are subjected to the action of a screw-press 
 for the expulsion of the poisonous liquid. The masses thus solidi- 
 fied by pi'essure are beaten fine in mortars. The substance is 
 next transferred to open ovens, or concave plates, heated beneath, 
 where it is constantly and rapidly stirred until quite drj^. The 
 appearance of the fariuha, when well prej)ared, is very white and 
 beautiful, although its particles are rather coarse. It is found upon 
 every Brazilian table, and forms a great variety of healthy and 
 palatable dishes. The fine substance deposited by the juice of the 
 mandioca, when preserved, standing a short time, constitutes the 
 tapioca of commerce, so well known in the culinary departments 
 of North America and Europe, and is now a valuable export from 
 Brazil. 
 
 Another species, called the Aipim, (manihot Aipim,) is common. 
 It is destitute of all poisonous qualities, and is boiled or roasted, 
 
Id'-J, Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and is but little inferior to the potato or the large Italian 
 chestnut. It has further the advantage of requiring but 
 eight months to ripen, although it cannot be converted into 
 farinha. 
 
 Not far from Praia Grande is the foundry, engine-manufactory, 
 and shij)-yard of Ponte da Area, where four or five hundred 
 mechanics and laborers, under European and Brazilian super- 
 vision, are turning out works of importance and magnitude. In 
 the 3'ear 1854, besides kettles, stills, and boilers, this establish- 
 ment constructed four steamers with their engines, and two more 
 steamers and a bark were uj)on the stocks. 
 
 But the most attractive part of this side of the water is the 
 peaceful and beautiful Rua da Inga and the Praia de Carahy. We 
 wind through a thoroughfare — if it can be so called — overhung by 
 graceful shade-trees; and on either side, almost hidden by hedges 
 of mimosa, creeping and flowering vines, huge plants and cacti in 
 gorgeous bloom, are the vermilion roofs and the blue arabesques 
 of Brazilian cottages. In a few minutes we reach the Praia de 
 Carahy, where the fanning sea-breeze dashes the waves in foaming 
 brightness agaijist the shell-paved beach. The scene beyond is 
 indescribable in its beauty and its grandeur; and the view of the 
 surrounding mountains and Rio de Janeiro nestling at their base 
 has often reminded me of the observations of Mr. Ilillard in regard 
 to Naples and Edinburgh, when he says, "The works of man's hands 
 are subordinate to the grand and commanding features of nature 
 around and above them : . . . . the magnificent lines and sweeps 
 of the landscape eat up the city itself" 
 
 When I gazed from the craggy cliff of Inga. upon the rolling 
 surf beneath, — the graceful lake-like Bay of Jurujuba on our left, 
 the islet of Boa Viagem before us, crowned with its picturesque 
 chapel, dear to mariners and kissed by the breeze-swayed palm- 
 tree, and as with silent wonder 1 beheld far across the water the 
 giant groupings of the Pao de Assucar, the Tres Irmaos, the wide- 
 topped Gavia, the columnar Corcovado, and the distant Tijuca, — 
 I could realize the emotions of the same polished and forcible 
 writer when acknowledging the utter impossibility of describing 
 the Italian scene to which the Brazilian landscajie is equal in 
 beauty and superior in sublimity. What Mr. Hillard has said of 
 
The View from Inga. 193 
 
 the glorious environs of Naples is doubly true of the view from 
 Ingii : — " AVhut words can analj'ze and take to pieces the parts and 
 details of this nuitchlcss panorama, or unravel that magic web of 
 beauty into which palaces, villas, forests, gardens, the mountains 
 and the sea, are woven ? What pen can paint the soft curves, the 
 gentle undulations, the flowing outlines, the craggy steeps, and the 
 far-seen heights, which, in their combination, are so full of grace, 
 and, at the same time, expression ? Words here are imperfect in 
 struments, and must j-ield their place to the pencil and the graver. 
 But no canvas can reproduce the light and color which play around 
 this enchanting region. No skill can catch the changing hues of 
 the distant mountains, the star-points of the playing waves, the 
 films of purple and green which spread themselves over the calm 
 waters, the sunsets of gold and orange, and the aerial veils of rose 
 and amethj'st which drop over the hills from the skies of morning 
 and evening." 
 
 Such scenes can ho felt, not described. 
 
 If we now turn from the white beach and the magnificent 
 Vista de Ingd, and seek the reddish-colored hills which are 
 beyond the Bay of Jurujuba, we shall in our rambles frequently 
 meet portions of the earth freshly thrown up. This has been done 
 by the armadillo; for the pointed snout 
 and the strong claws of this little buckler- 
 clad animal admirably adapt him for bur- 
 rowing, which operation he performs with 
 such astonishing rapidity that it is almost 
 impossible to get at him by digging. The 
 hunters, in such a case, resort to fire, and 
 smoke the armadillo out of his den. Not 
 being able to stand the fumes of burning ,.„£ armadillo. 
 
 wood, the little fellow rushes through the 
 
 new-made aperture, rolls himself up, is easily captured, and his 
 delicate flesh is soon consigned to the kitchen. This power of 
 enveloping himself so completely in his shell that he appears like 
 a round stone or a cocoanut, is a provision of a kind Providence. 
 The armadillo cannot run with any degree of rapidity, and, when 
 attacked by birds of prey, he rolls himself up like a hedgehog, and 
 
 otfers only a solid uniform surface impervious to beaks and talons. 
 
 13 
 
194 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 
 Or again, if set upon by a dog or some small quadruped, he "swal- 
 lows himself" and rolls down a hill. I have before me a specimen 
 of the armadillo that was seized in his 
 doubled-up state and thrust immediately^ 
 into boiling water, which has preserved 
 him in that position. So little does it re- 
 semble the live animal or his natural 
 elongated appearance, that no friend to 
 whom I have shown him could divine 
 wdiat it was, nearly every one taking him 
 to be some strange Brazilian nut. The en- 
 gravings afford a perfect likeness of him 
 from two different points of view: neither 
 head nor tail can be made of him, unless 
 the triangular piece is his os frontis. 
 
 In returning to Eio de Janeiro, it is 
 often an agreeable variety to make the 
 passage in ufalua* This is a species of 
 boat Avith lateen sails, and may be of 
 twenty or forty tons' burden. They are manned by a captain, who 
 steers, takes the three-cent fare, and scolds the poor blacks. When 
 it is calm, the more than half-naked negroes slowly pull at the 
 long oars, which are so heavy, that, in order to obtain a " pur- 
 chasej" they are obliged to step up on a sort of bench before them, 
 and thus, rising and falling to a monotonous African ditty, they 
 form one of the peculiar sights of Eio. Many of the poorer 
 classes go as passengers on these faluas; but they ai*e mostly 
 used for the transportation of light cargoes to various towns on 
 the bay. If we take a falua to the Saude, we pass through vast 
 quantities of shipping. 
 
 The great interests of Brazilian commerce draw an immense 
 number of vessels from all portions of the globe. Brazil itself pos- 
 sesses the second navy of the Western World, and her steam- 
 frigates and her sloops-of-war rendered essential service in the 
 overthrow of the tyrant Bosas at Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Since 1839, Brazil has had steamshijvlines running along tho 
 
 * The sail-boats in the engravings on pages 60 and 201 &re faluas. 
 
The Commerce of Brazil. 195 
 
 whole of her four thousand miles of sea-coast, but it was not until 
 1850 tluit Bteam-comniunication was established to Europe. It was 
 then that the Eoyal liritish Mail Steamship Company, whose 
 vessels start from Southampton, began their monthly voyages. 
 In 1857 Brazil had for a short time six different lines of steamers, 
 connecting her with England, Ei'ance, Hamburg, Portugal, Belgium, 
 and Sardinia. The United States, which hitherto had been the 
 great commercial rival of Great Britain in Brazil, had not a single 
 line of steamers to any portion of South America; and, while 
 England was reaping golden harvests, the balance of trade was 
 each year accumulating against us. With all this so evident, it did 
 seem strange that the General Government of the Union, which 
 had aided in extending Our mercantile interests by subsidies to 
 steamships running to other lands, had been so tardy in I'cgard to 
 South America, and especially unmindful of Brazil. England's 
 commerce with Brazil since the establishment of her first steam- 
 line in 1850 has increased her exports more than one hundred per 
 cent., while the United States required thirteen years to make the 
 same advance. Her entire commerce with Brazil, imports and 
 exports, advanced two hundred and twenty-five per cent, since 
 her first steam-line was established. Each year the balance of 
 trade was increasing rapidly against us. In 18G0-G1 the United 
 States exported to Brazil $6,018,394, while in return the United 
 States imported from Brazil $22,547,091 ; or, in other words, only a 
 year's trading with Brazil left against us the cash balance of 
 $16,528,697, which we had to pay at heavy rates of exchange. 
 England, in 1864, sold Brazil $40,612,985, and bought of her in 
 return only $33,079,755, thus leaving the latter her debtor. Why 
 was there such a disastrous account against us? British steamers, 
 energy, and capital, and our neglect, had thus advanced the com- 
 merce of England. Our Government and our merchants, notwith- 
 standing their boasted enterprise, did next to nothing to foster the 
 trade with Brazil. Purchasing as we do half her coffee crop and 
 the greater portion of her India-rubber, there should have been 
 an effort on our part to introduce effectually the many produc- 
 tions of our country which we can furnish as well as Great Britain 
 Our common cottons are better than the imitations of the same 
 manufactured at Manchester, England, and yet labelled "Lowell 
 
19G Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 drillings" and "York Mills, Saco, Me." We can furnish many 
 kinds of hardware and other items cheaper and better than 
 England. The few efforts made by single individuals (as in the 
 case of several American merchants) to introduce the labor-saving 
 machines of our country have already resulted in the establish- 
 ment of a number of Brazilian houses in Eio de Janeii'o, where 
 one can purchase various articles under the comprehensive name 
 of Generos Norte Americanos. In 1856, the United States purchased 
 one-third of all the exports of Brazil, but the imports from the 
 United States into the Empire were not one-tenth of the Brazilian 
 imports. This subject demands investigation from individuals and 
 from our Government. It does not fall within my province to 
 extend this to greater length in this portion of the work, but the 
 statistician and the political economist, as well as those who are 
 enffasred in commerce, will find in statistical works much informa- 
 tion in regard to our business-relations with Brazil: however, in 
 this connection I will mention the efforts of several persons who 
 were among the earliest to foresee the benefits arising from steam 
 communication between Brazil and the United States. To William 
 Wheelwright, Esq., (the energetic founder and entrepreneur of the 
 Pacific Mail steam-line on the west coast of South America, the 
 builder of the Copiapo Railway, and now the principal contractor 
 for constructing the great Argentine Central Railway,) belongs the 
 honor of fii'st suggesting the steam-line from New York to RiO de 
 Janeiro. John Gardiner, Esq., for many years a merchant at Rio, 
 actually made propositions to the United States Congress of 1851-52 
 for effecting this desired object. In 1854, Dr. Thomas Rainey, 
 now Director-in-Chief of the Ferry Company at Rio, devoted par- 
 ticular attention to this subject. At a pecuniary loss to himself, 
 he travelled twice from Washington to Rio de Janeiro, — visiting 
 the Amazon and the West Indies, — going before the Executive 
 heads and the statesmen of each Government, and calling attention 
 to the important facts which he had elucidated after patient inves- 
 tigation. These facts, printed in former editions of this work, 
 were very striking and convincing, and afforded to friends of both 
 lands some of the strongest arguments for uniting by steam the 
 two greatest American countries. Dr. Rainey, in connection with 
 R. M. Stratton, S. L. Mitchell, and others, urged before the United 
 
A Steamsuip Line to Brazil. 197 
 
 States Coiigiess of 1857-58 a proposition to establish a line from 
 New York and Savannah to Pani or Maranhani, so as to unite at 
 either of those ports Avith the Brazil Packet Company's steamers. 
 This measure was defeated Ijy only eight votes. 
 
 In 1852, the junior author was so imjDressed with the evidence 
 before him at Pio that the commei"ce of Brazil was gliding away 
 from the United States, that he wrote a letter on the subject of 
 steam communication to the New York Journal of Commerce, and 
 from that time forward he continued to agitate in the press, before 
 Chambers of Commerce and popular audiences in the United 
 States, and by visits to Brazil and by coi*respondence with Brazilian 
 statesmen, until there was no further necessity for agitation. 
 
 Hon. A. C. Tavares Bastos (the young Bj-azilian statesman re- 
 ferred to On page 186), by his essays entitled Cartas do Solitarlo, 
 (Letters of a Hermit,) by his communications to the daily press 
 of Eio, and by his persistent advocacy in the Parliament, did much 
 among his countrymen to bi'ing about a correct public opinion on 
 this subject. 
 
 It was a favorite idea with the friends of this measure that the 
 interests of the Western continent should be united; that the policy 
 of the North and South American States should be as far as pos- 
 sible American, and not European, and that to this end they should 
 be locked in the closest embraces by steam; thatb}^ this alone they 
 could cultivate those intimate relations of friendship and that mu- 
 tual confidence which would result in the material advancement of 
 the New World. The communication with Brazil, and, consequently, 
 with all South America, was exceedingly difficult. We had no 
 means of sending letters and passengers except by sailing-vessels, 
 which are slow, unreliable, and but little disposed to accommodate 
 the interests of rivals. Nearly all passengers and letters went to 
 Liverpool, thence to Southampton or the Continent, and thence to 
 Brazil, La Plata, and the Windward Islands, — a distance of nearly 
 nine thousand miles. Our commercial men not only had to send 
 by this most unnatural transit, but were compelled to submit to 
 the most harassing disadvantages, and were almost at the mercy 
 of European rivals. It is, therefore, to be regretted that the Con- 
 gress of 1857-58 did not have time to act upon the report laid before 
 that body. It was, however, only a work of time. In June, 1865. 
 
198 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the Senate of Brazil passed the bill, (brought into the Chamber of 
 Deputies in 1864j based on the law of the United States Congress, 
 signed by President Lincoln, May 28, 1864, to the following effect ; 
 that Brazil unite with the Government of the United States in 
 granting a joint subsidy to a line of steamers making twelve round 
 voyages per annum, from Xew York to Eio de Janeiro, touching 
 at St. Thomas, Para, Pernambuco, and Bahia. '' The United States 
 and Brazil Mail Steamship Company" obtained the contract. 
 
 Behind the island of Enxadas are the Eoyal Mail, the French, 
 and the Liverpool steamers, which have come over the pleasantest 
 route, save one, known in ocean-navigation. I have sailed on 
 many seas, but only one other voyage which, all things considered, 
 is comparable to that from Eio de Janeiro to England. We are out 
 of sight of land but six days at the longest stretch, (from Pernam- 
 buco to the Cape de Verdsj) while the average number of days at 
 sea without stopping are two and a half. From Eio to Bahia there 
 are but three days' steaming over summer waters; and the ten 
 or twelve hours at the second city of the Empire gives plenty of 
 time for refreshing promenades or rides into the country. In 
 less than two days we land at Pernambuco, where we spend from 
 twelve to twenty hours, lay in a stock of fine oranges and pine- 
 apples, (capital anti-nauseatics,) and perhaps purchase a few scream- 
 ing parrots or chattering monkej's to present to our European 
 friends. We then steam for St. Vincent, (Cape de Verds,) where 
 we remain a few hours, and, next steering northward, in forty- 
 eight hours we behold, one hundred and fifty miles at sea, the tall 
 iPeak of Tenerifte lifting itself more than thirteen thousand feet 
 l^rom the bosom of the ocean. Here we revel in peaches, pears, 
 Ifigs, and luscious clusters of grapes, — in short, all the fruits of the 
 temperate zone. We pass through the Canaries, and in thirty 
 hours are at Funchal, whei*e the fruit-dose is repeated; a walk upon 
 the shore (if health-bill clean) is permitted, and, after being bored 
 a few hours by the pedlars and grape-venders, we bid farewell to 
 picturesque Madeii*a, and, at the end of three days, sail up the 
 mouth of the Tagus and anchor before Lisbon. When we leave 
 Portugal, we steam along its coast and that of Spain, and in 
 three days we land at Southampton. No such steamer-voyage 
 exists in the woi'ld; and those who are in quest of the new, the 
 
Accessibility of Rio'de Janeiro. 109 
 
 strange, and the beautiful, can nowhere so easily and so cl caply 
 gratiiy their wishes in those respects as by the trip from South- 
 ampton to Eio, or vice versa. 186G, Teneriffe and Madeira are no 
 longer ports of call. 
 
 The steam-voyage from New York to Eio {via the tropic Isle 
 of St. Thomas, Para on the Amazon, and the bright cities of 
 Pernanibueo and Bahia) equals in pleasantness the route from 
 Europe to Brazil. The United States steamers anchor at Enxadas. 
 
 From the island of Enxadas, on either hand, over vessels from 
 the coasting-smack to the largest freighting-ships, may be seen the 
 flags of Spain, Portugal, Italy, Eussia, Hamburg, France, Belgium, 
 Bremen, Austria, Denmark, Sweden, England, the United States, 
 the South American Republics, and Brazil. These vessels are 
 required to anchor at sufficient distance apart to swing clear of 
 each other in all the different positions in which the ebbing and 
 flowing tide may place them: thus, boats may pass among them 
 at pleasure. 
 
 Situated accessibly as the port of Eio de Janeiro is, upon the 
 great highway of nations, with a harbor unrivalled, not only for 
 beauty, but also for the security it affords to the mariner, it be- 
 comes a touching-point for man}^ vessels not engaged in Brazilian 
 commerce. Those that suffer injury in the perils of the sea between 
 the equator and the Cape of Good Hope generally jDut in here for 
 repairs. Many sons of the ocean, with dismasted or waterlogged 
 vessels, have steered for this harbor as their last hope. At the 
 same time, nearl}' all men-of-war and many merchantmen, bound 
 round Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope, put in here to re- 
 plenish their water and fresh provisions. Thus, in the course of 
 business and of Providence, missionaries, either outward or home- 
 ward bound, were in various instances thrown among us for a 
 brief period; and we scarcely knew w^hich to value most, — the pri- 
 vilege of enjoying their society and counsel,' or that of extending 
 to them those Christian hospitalities not always expected on a 
 foreign shore. We enjoyed many such visits that will long be 
 remembered, and we seemed to be brought directly in contact with 
 Eussia, India, the Sandwich Islands, and Central and South Africa, 
 — the countries where the individuals met with had severally 
 labored. 
 
200 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Such circumstances beautifully illustrate the central position and 
 the important character of the harbor of Eio de Janeiro, which 
 forms a converging-point for vessels from any port of the United 
 States and Europe, and for returning voyages from Australia, Cali- 
 fornia, and the islands of the Pacific. 
 
 Annually more than twelve thousand mariners, sailing under the 
 flags of England and the United States, are gathered at Eio de 
 Janeiro. This class of men demands the earnest attention of the 
 philanthroiDic Christian. If pestilence visits Eio, they are sure to 
 fall before it sooner than any other men who resort thither. The 
 improvidence of sailors is proverbial, and their general dissipation 
 and recklessness are well known. A greater proportion of these 
 men die annuallj'^ than of those who follow any other calling. 
 They therefore really call for most earnest effort in their behalf, 
 both morally and physically. 
 
 The exertions that have been made among sailors at Eio from 
 time to time have not been entirely in vain. The American Sea- 
 men's Friend Society — a noble institution, which has carried the 
 church over the world for Americans and Englishmen — established 
 a chaplaincy at this port more than twenty years ago. oS'o chaj)el 
 was ever erected, because the peculiar regulations of the port are 
 such that vessels lie at anchor awa}' from the shore; hence it has 
 been usual to hold services on board various vessels that might be 
 in the harbor. The Bethel flag, with its white dove, would be 
 hoisted to the main, and, when unfurled to the breeze, like a 
 church-bell, though mute, would call the hardy mariners from the 
 various anchorages to come up to the floating tabernacle, there to 
 join in the hymn of praise, or to listen, in this distant clime, to 
 the lessons of sacred truth. During a number of j-ears it was my 
 privilege, in connection with duties on shore, to fill the post of 
 American Chaplain. It was my custom, when the Y)Ovt was 
 healthy, to visit the English and Amei'ican vessels each Friday, 
 conversing with the officers, dropping a word of advice to the 
 sailors, and placing in the hand of each a tract to announce the 
 ship over which the Bethel flag would float on the following Sun- 
 day. When the yellow fever prevailed, I daily attended the hos- 
 pitals and boarded the ships to administer the comforts of the 
 gospel to the sick and dying sailoi-s. Poor fellows ! Many passed 
 
The English Cemetery. 
 
 201 
 
 from time into eternity without being able to send a parting mes- 
 sage to their distant friends ; but, whenever I could ascertain the 
 address of their relatives, I forwarded their dying words, which 
 were frequently the outpourings of their faith and hope in Christ. 
 
 In this round of duties I w^as materially aided b}^ Senhor Lco- 
 poldo, the guarda-mor, who, with great kindness, made an exception 
 in favor of the chaplain, allowing me to visit all the vessels in port 
 without the special daily permit.* 
 
 From the loading-ground to the British Cemetery at Gamboa 
 the distance by water is little more than a mile; and often have I 
 
 ENGLISH CEMETERY AT GAMBOA. 
 
 had to lead the.moui'nful procession from the landing-place up the 
 green walks of this quiet and retired resting-place for the dead. 
 In this beautiful and secluded spot sleep more than one minister- 
 plenipotentiar}' and admiral. Men of eminent station, as well as the 
 unknown English and American citizen, the German, the French- 
 man, the Swede, and the representatives of the commercial marine 
 cl almost every nation, here slumber in death. No portion of Eio 
 
 * This courtesy can be better appreciated when the reader is informed that, by 
 the narrow and restricted port-laws of Brazil, no one except a custom-house officer 
 can visit, without permit, a vessel that is discharging. The penalty for each 
 offence is a fine of fifty dollars. : 
 
202 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 was ever more impressive to me, whether it was in reading the 
 solemn funeral-service in the hearing of many, or when, with none 
 but the sexton, I stood by the new-inadc grave, or when alone 
 I wandered through the sliady walks. This cemetery belongs to 
 the English; but the application of any consul for the burial of a 
 deceased person of another nation is never rejected. 
 
 While Englishmen either at home or at Rio have done so much 
 toward preparing and beautifying a suitable resting-place for the 
 dead, they have sadly neglected the living who come to this mart. 
 There is regular service for those who reside in the city; but for 
 the six thousand mariners who sail hither under the English flag, 
 no provision has been made. The duties of the English chaplain 
 conhne him to the shore; and, though occasionally English officers 
 and masters go to the chapel, the sailor is neglected. It may be 
 said, ''There stands the chapel; let him go thither." Men who are 
 not accustomed to the sound of the church-ii:oini>; bell, and whose 
 proclivities are not particularly God-ward, have some hesitation to 
 row one mile upon the water, and then, in a tropic clime, to walk 
 another, in a strange city, to a house of worship with which they 
 do not feel associated by ordinary local ties. For such men, either 
 the English Bethel Union, or some benevolent association connected 
 with the Established Church or with Dissenters, should make pro- 
 vision for regular worship. If men will not come to the gospel, we 
 must take it to them; and the most earnest workman in the vine- 
 yard of our Master will find enough to do among the English sailors 
 in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The lower class of English laborers, 
 either in the mines or engaged in the construction of railways, is 
 annually increasing, and it is hoped that the effort for ameliorating 
 the moral condition of the resident workmen, so auspiciously begun 
 at the Saude, may be followed up on the vast water-parish which 
 is ever to be found floating on the commodious bay. I am aware 
 that there are those who look upon it as a more hopeful task to 
 labor for the good of souls among the heathen than for seamen. 
 While I would not have a single soldier called in from the distant 
 outposts, I do believe that, under the circumstances, no distant 
 field is more encouraging than caring for the spiritual welfare of 
 those who "go down to the sea in shijis." They may be termed a 
 "hard set;" but the}' have noble and generous qualities and great 
 
Brazilian Funerals. 
 
 203 
 
 temptations. It therefore becomes the English Christian not to 
 rest until in every important foreign port he establishes worship 
 for the sailor. (1866, the Gamboa Cemetery is exclusively English.) 
 The English Chapel is situated in Eua dos Barbonos, near the 
 Largo da Mai do Bispo. This neat little edifice was erected in 1823, 
 almost immediately after the achievement of Brazilian Independ- 
 ence. Service is held here each Sunday morning at eleven o'clock, 
 and the English resident experiences a homelike feeling when he 
 finds himself surrounded by his countrymen, and listens to the 
 sacred and beautiful- service to which he was accustomed in the 
 
 THE ENGLISH CHAPEL. 
 
 land of his birth. It is, however, painful to reflect that so few avail 
 themselves of the opportunity which this chapel affords ibr hearing 
 the truth. The attendance is better since Kev. Mr. Preston's arrival. 
 Compared with all other English chapels which I have visited in 
 many foreign lands, that of Eio de Janeiro is the least frequented. 
 There are a number of Roman Catholic cemeteries in the vicinity 
 of the city, which belong to the different brotherhoods. The Bra- 
 zilian funerals are conducted with much pomp. Formerly inter- 
 ments took place in the churches; but, since 1850, there have been 
 no intermural burials. Carriages and outriders, and a long train 
 of friends in vehicles, make up the procession. There are not, to a 
 great extent, those peculiar customs and ceremonies which wero 
 
204 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 formerly consequent upon a death in a Brazilian family. There is 
 more j)arade than upon the Continent, and probablj' more, since the 
 burial-reform, than in England. The deceased child, often decked 
 with flowers, is borne to the grave in an open hearse with gilded 
 pillars. The driver of the hearse, the footman, and the four out- 
 riders, upon white horses, are in red livery. Custom forbids the 
 presence of women at a funeral, and also the attendance of very 
 near relatives. If the deceased be above ten years of age, the im- 
 mediate relatives remain at home for eight days, during the first 
 of which a profound silence is maintained. When friends come to 
 offer their sympathy, the customary salutation of those who enter 
 is, "Will you permit me to offer my condolence for the loss you 
 have sustained ?" Silence is then preserved by both parties, and, 
 after some minutes, the visitor withdraws. 
 
 From the cemetery of Gamboa is a vista of the Serra de Tijuca; 
 and among the man}'- jaunts near the city, none surpasses in inte- 
 rest the ride up these mountains. Passing through the long street 
 of Engenho Yelho, which is lined with the residences of wealth^' 
 families, each surrounded with its chacara or grounds, that glow 
 with the fadeless verdure of mangueiras, orange-groves, and palms, 
 interspersed with flowers of the brightest hues, we reach the foot 
 of the mountain. Here are many picturesque villas, each having 
 piazzas in front, and often approached by a large stone gateway, 
 where, in the evening, the family sit to amuse their listless hours 
 by watching the passers-by. These countrj'-residences are built in 
 a style that accords well with the glowing climate. The pediments 
 and cornices of the houses are ornamented with arabesques on a 
 ground of vivid blue. No uglj'- clusters of smoking chimneys 
 deform the roofs. The white walls glitter amid the dark foliage, 
 or stand in strong relief against the steep mountain-sides. The 
 native families generally live on the plain, and near the ever- 
 attractive road; but the Englishman, true to his national character, 
 climbs the mountain and builds an eyrie among the clouds. 
 
 On arriving at a mineral spring, called Agon 'Ferrea, j'ou quit 
 the railway for the more agreeable mode of travel afforded by 
 horse or mule. It is true that invalids and hard-hearted people 
 may cause four mules to drag them up the steep ascent. But no 
 one possessing eyes, taste, and health, should miss the opportunity 
 
i;':I:l'f-i.,i,i,f 
 
 |J(ti»Af»'»jif"V''' 
 
TiJucA. 205 
 
 of a horse-back ride. It is difficult to speak calmly of the scenery 
 about Rio. No pen can do justice to the view that meets the eye 
 half-way up the mountain. A good cicerone will keep your atten- 
 tion fixed on the flowers that adorn the left bank of the road 
 until he reaches a low part of the brushwood and pulls in his 
 horse, exclaiming, '"Look!" A wondrous view it is that bursts 
 upon you. There, unfurled before you, like a fairy panorama, 
 are the ba}' with its islands, the distant mountains blending with 
 the clear blue sky, — a dark precipitous clifl:' on the right, pouring 
 down its tiny cascades in silvery lines, that relieve its barren stern- 
 ness, and on the left a high hill, covered with glossy-leaved coffee- 
 plants : on the plain beloAV rises a single mound, and beyond is the 
 gleaming city, — its white edifices peacefully encircling the green 
 hills of Conception, San Bcnto, and Antonio. Nothing but a large 
 oil-painting can convey any just idea of this view; and it was here 
 that an English painter took his stand for his tropic landscape. 
 Leutsinger has the best photographs of Rio scenery. 
 
 After a long gaze you turn away only half satisfied, and imme- 
 diately lose sight of all on that side of the mountain, but soon dis- 
 cover the open sea beyond the opposite descent. A few minutes more 
 brings you to the residence of Mr. Bennett, an intelligent English- 
 man, who has erected in this beautiful spot a boarding-house, where 
 many of the foreign residents pass the hot months. Here, while 
 only eight miles from the Praca do Commercio, far from the heat 
 and noise of the busy city, we could spend our days and nights in 
 ease and comfort. No mosquitoes fright away sleep w^ith their 
 fierce war-whoops j no cockroaches — or baratas, as they are called — 
 crawl over 3'our feet as you sit in the piazza. But do not imagine 
 that there is total stillness. On the contrary, the air is vocal with 
 the sounds of that portion of animated nature which loves to dis- 
 turb nocturnal hours. Pre-eminent above all is the staccato music 
 of the blacksmith-frog, whose substantial body a man's hands 
 could not enclose, and every sound that he produces rings upon 
 the ear like the clang of a hammer upon an anvil, while the tones 
 uttered by his congeners strikingly resemble the lowing of distant 
 cattle. 
 
 Not for from Bennett's are the coffee-plantations of Mr. Lesceno 
 and of Mr. Moke, which are among the very first that Avere culti- 
 
206 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 vuled in Brazil; and, as tho}' are the only fazendas near to the city, 
 no stranger should omit an early walk to the lovely valley -where 
 the}' are found. 
 
 The excursions from the boarding-house are most varied and 
 interesting. To climb the Pedra Bonita and gaze u])on the moun- 
 tain-landscape and the far-off meeting of sky and ocean 's thc 
 dclightfid work of a few hours. The charm of Tijuca is that, 
 while its climate is unchanging June, and its verdure tropical, it 
 
 BENNETT'S, TIJUCA. 
 
 possesses the sparkling cascades and thundering waterfalls of 
 Switzerland. If we wander from Bennett's toward Eio, and 
 turn to our left, a few moments will bring us to a limpid stream 
 which hangs like a ribbon down the mountain-side, and sends up 
 
 " Brave notes to all the woods around, 
 When morning beams are gathering fast, 
 And husli'd is every human sound." 
 
 This beautiful fall is said to come from a height of three hundred 
 feet, and reminded me of the leaping brooks of the Valley of the 
 Bhone, or the graceful cascade of Arpenaz, that swings from an 
 Alpine cliff into the sweet vale of Maglan. Or again, if we ride 
 for a half-hour in the opposite direction from the mountain 
 boarding-house, we reach a wild and verdant spot, where, dismissmg 
 
Excursions. 207 
 
 otir horses, we climb up through banana-fields and forest, and reach 
 the foaming waters of the Cascata Grande. Here the Tijuca Eiver 
 leaps for sixty feet or more over a rocky inclined plain, presenting, 
 when the volume is increased, an imposing appearance; but, when 
 the stream is only supplied b}' the clear springs of the Serra, it 
 glides down in a transparent sheet, revealing the shining rock 
 beneath. The river pursues its way over a rock-bed down the 
 mountain, and loses itself in the lake which mirrors the giant 
 Gavia. 
 
 ]\Ii-. Ewbank, wlio is usually veiy correct in his facts, has 
 euriously departed from his accustomed precision in the statement 
 that it was " in this secluded retreat that the Bishop of I^io lay 
 concealed during the troubles with the Fi*ench Protestants of 
 Colignj-'s time." Is o "Bishop of liio" was in existence "during 
 the ti'oubles of Coligny's time." The onlj- bishopric in Brazil for 
 many years was that of Bahia. The French were finall}' expelled 
 from the Bay of Eio de Janeiro in 1567, and it was not until this 
 was effected that the city of San Sebastian or Eio de Janeiro was 
 founded. j\Li'. Ewbank was doubtless misled by some one infoi-ming 
 him that the remains near the Cascata Grande were those of Avails 
 erected for the bishop when the F'rench took possession of Eio. 
 This is perfectly correct; for in 1711, after the disastrous defeat of 
 the French commander Du Clerc, (in 1710,) Du Gua}- Trouin came 
 with an avenging squadron to Eio de Janeiro, and on such a scale 
 were his preparations that the inhabitants fled to the mountains 
 of Tijuca, and there remained until the city was taken and sacked, 
 and did not return before Trouin had sailed away with his heaA-y 
 ransom. 
 
 But if Mr. Ewbank has been led into error so far as a date is 
 concerned, he has more than made up for it by his beautiful and 
 graphic painting of the bright Falls of Tijuca, as it appeared to him 
 when taking a picnic-dinner upon the glistening stones: — "Om 
 table extended into the channel; and there we banqueted and 
 reclined amid scenerj- far excelling that which Pliny's Laurentinum 
 dining-chamber opened on. Shielded from the sun by nature's 
 parasols, far from the busy scenes of artificial life, not a carking 
 care to trouble us, and our spirits airy as our dresses, we laughed 
 and talked and dipped our cups in the crystal stream as people did 
 
208 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 in the golden age. Flora adorned the hanging shrubbery ; Pomona, 
 from the distance, looked on; zephyrs played round us; and 
 naiads — if naiads there be — frisked in the falls and threw spray at 
 us as they glided by." 
 
 From Tijuca there is a very fine excursion around the base of the 
 Gavia, high up whose steep sides are certain curious hieroglyjihics, 
 which have long occupied the attention of the learned. These 
 characters seem like Eoman letters ; but the best explanation of 
 their existence upon this precipitous wall is that nature has 
 chiselled them by rains and sun, and, perhaps in times remote, by 
 little shrubs, whose seeds, deposited by wandering birds, have 
 grown in the crevices until their swelling roots have aided the rain 
 in prying off friable portions of the rock. 
 
 This excursion can be extended upon the wave-washed beach 
 around to the Botanical Gardens, above which, from one of the 
 lesser hills, is a prospect not excelled by the views of Como and 
 Maggiore. The abrupt Corcovado presents a new face as it looks 
 do^m upon the calm Lagoa das Freitas. The stately palms of the 
 Jardim Botanico seem from oiu' elevation like the trees of a child's 
 toy garden. The Serra, across the Bay of Rio, takes every shade 
 of purple and blue during the daytime, and, as the sun at eventide 
 darts his rays athwart the Pao de Assucar and the Irmaos, the dis- 
 tant white fortress of Santa Cruz stands out from waters and moun- 
 tains of rose. A lady friend, who sketched for me the opposite en- 
 graved scene, accompanied the gift with this remark in regard to 
 the exquisite tints of that tropic region: — "Years of familiarity 
 never destroyed for me the loveliness and marvellousness of these 
 hues, which a painter would hesitate to put upon canvas for exhi- 
 bition to the inhabitants of a less genial zone." There is less 
 difficulty, however, in transferring to the sketch-book the bold out- 
 lines of those peculiar-shaped mountains which abound throughout 
 almost every league of the capital province of the Empire; and 
 the many scenes presented in this portion of " Brazil and the Bra- 
 zilians," which were taken to support no argument of mine, will 
 expose the absurdity as well as the inaccuracy of the descriptions 
 given, even in the latest American edition of McCulloch, of " the 
 neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro," which " consists in a great mea- 
 sui-e of plains" ! 
 
An Old Friend. 
 
 209 
 
 The Eotanical Gardens, to which we can now easily descend, is 
 situated in this romantic spot, and is reached from the city by a 
 fine turnpike which leads through Botafogo and under the shadow 
 of Corcovado. It is not a flower-garden, but rather a Jardin des 
 Plantes, where rare exotics, from the tiniest parasite up to the loftiest 
 palm, come under our inspection. Here you may behold groves of 
 cinnamon and clove trees, acres of Chinese tea, the Nogaras da 
 India, the bread-fruit, cacao and camphor trees, besides many others 
 that are objects of great curiosity. There was one tree, half hidden 
 
 LAGOA DE FREITAS. 
 
 by the dome-shaped inanqueira!<, that I often visited with peculiar 
 emotions of pleasure. It was a small North American maple. As 
 I looked upon that little tree, — an exotic in this distant land, where 
 no wintrj' blasts would strip it of its foliage, where not even an 
 autumnal frost would robe it in those gorgeous hues wni.,h the 
 flowers of this summer clime hardly surpass, — I could sympathize 
 with the Bedouin of the desert who, upon beholding the palm-tree 
 in the Jardin des Plantes of Paris, was transported far over moun- 
 tain and sea to the country of his nativity. The most surprising 
 sight to the Northern stranger in the Botanical Gardens is the long 
 avenue of the Pahna Eeal, (^Oreodoxa regia,) which we enter from 
 
 the great gate, and which, in its regularity, extent, and beauty, is 
 
 14 
 
210 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 unrivalled. It is a colonnade of natural Corinthian columns, -vrhose 
 graceful, bright-green capitals seem to suj)port a portion of the 
 blue dome that arches above. 
 
 But the sun's last rays are empurpling the granite peaks around 
 us, and, after a gallop through the villa-lined San Clemente, we 
 reach Botafogo. The lamps are already twinkling, and throw 
 their light upon the edge of that graceful little bay where the gay 
 regatta holds its annual festivity. Five minutes more, we dismount 
 at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros; and thus we have accomplished tho 
 entire circuit of the city San Sebastian de Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — No one who has not visited Tijuca since 1855, can have a just 
 idea of the many improvements that have taken place in that charming spot. The 
 Tijuca rail'vay conveys passengers from the Praca da Constitucao to the foot of 
 the mountain, a distance of seven miles. Near the terminus are several fine Bra- 
 zilian chacaras and villas, amongst them, the most conspicuous by its size and 
 good taste, is that of Militao Maximo de Souza. From the terminus horses can 
 be obtained, and after a fine up-hill ride, over a new road, you arrive at Boa 
 Vista, where a number of elegant English and Brazilian residences have been 
 recently" erected. By a winding road, at the right of the main highway, you 
 reach the finest house for picturesque situation, comfort and solidity in Brazil. 
 This is the residence of William Ginty, Esq. Where else in the world will you 
 find all the adjuncts of gas, (from the city mains,) running water, fine gardens 
 on a verdure-clad peak 1300 feet above the level of the sea! Mr. Bennett has 
 more than doubled the accommodations of his most excellent hotel, and. by his 
 tasteful horticultural adornments and other important additions, he has rendered 
 his mountain and valley home more attractive than ever. To the geologist a new 
 attraction is found, in the fact that it was in front of Mr. Bennett's that Prof, 
 Agassiz, in May, 1865, first discovered erratic boulders and drift — the evidence 
 of glaciers in the tropics at some remote geologic period of time. 
 
CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 THE CAMPO SANTA ANNA THE OPENING OF THE ASSEMBLEA GERAL — HISTORY OF 
 
 EVENTS SUCCEEDING THE ACCLAMATION OF DOM PEDRO II. THE REGENCY 
 
 CONSTITUTIONAL REFORM CONDITION OF POLITICAL PARTIES BEFORE THE 
 
 REVOLUTION OF 1840 DEBATES IN THE HOUSE OF DEPUTIES ATTEMPT AT 
 
 PROROGATION MOVEMENT OF ANTONIO CARLOS — DEPUTATION TO THE EMPEROR 
 
 . PERMANENT SESSION ACCLAMATION OF DOM PEDRO's MAJORITY — THE ASSEM- 
 BLY'S PROCLAMATION — REJOICINGS NEW MINISTRY PUBLIC CONGRATULATIONS 
 
 REAL STATE OF THINGS MINISTERIAL PROGRAMME PREPARATIONS FOR THE 
 
 CORONATION — CHANGE OF MINISTRY — OPPOSITION COME INTO POWER CORONA- 
 TION POSTPONED SPLENDOR OF THE CORONATION — FINANCIAL EMBARRASS- 
 MENTS — DIPLOMACY DISSOLUTION OF THE CAMARA PRETEXT OF OUTBREAKS 
 
 COUNCIL OF STATE RESTORATION OF ORDER SESSIONS OF THE ASSEMBLY 
 
 IMPERIAL MARRIAGES MINISTERIAL CHANGE PRESENT CONDITION. 
 
 The usual carriage-route to and from Gamboa is through the 
 
 Campo de Santa Anna. Many important public buildings are upon 
 
 the side of this large square. The railway station, an extensive 
 
 garrison, the Camara Municipal, the National Museum, the Palace 
 
 of the Senate, the Foreign Office, and one of the large opera-houses, 
 
 are to be found on different portions of the park. It presents an 
 
 animated scene on the 3d of May, when the session of the As- 
 
 semblea Geral is opened by the Emperor in person. The procession 
 
 from St. Christoviio to the Palace of the Senate is not surpassed in 
 
 scenic effect b}^ any similar pageant in Europe. The foot-guards, 
 
 (halberdiers,) with their battle-axes, — the dragoons and the hussars 
 
 in picturesque and bright uniforms, — the mounted military bands, — 
 
 the large state-carriages, with their six caparisoned horses and 
 
 liveried coachmen and postillions, — the chariot of the Empress, 
 
 drawn by eight iron-grays, — the magnificent Imperial carriage, 
 
 drawn by the same number of milk-white horses decked with 
 
 Prince-of-Walcs plumes, — and the long cavalcade of troops, — form a 
 
 pageant worthy of the Empire. The six coaches-and-six are for 
 
 211 
 
212 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the officers of the Imperial household. Her Majesty Dona Tl eresa 
 is surrounded by her maids of honor in their robes and trains of 
 green and gold. Believing that some fair readers will be gratified 
 with the details of Dona Theresa's toilette, one who is better ac- 
 quainted than I am M'ith ladies' costume saj-s that the hahiUement 
 of the Empress, on state-occasions, is an under-dress of white satin, 
 heavily embroidered with gold, with a profusion of rich lace falling 
 deeply over the corsage and forming its sleeves. These are looped 
 uj) with diamonds magnificent in size and lustre. The train is of 
 green velvet, with embroideries in gold corresponding with those 
 of the skirt. Her head-dress, with the hair worn in long ringlets 
 in fi'ont, is a Avreath of diamonds and emeralds in the shape of 
 flowers rising into the form of a coronet over the forehead, and 
 from which a white ostrich-feather falls gracefully to the shoulder. 
 A broad sash, the combined ribbons of diff'erent orders, — scarlet, 
 purple, and green, — crosses the bust from the right shoulder to the 
 waist, above which a mass of emeralds and diamonds of the first 
 water sparkles on her bosom. Her smile is one of engaging sweet- 
 ness, which is not assumed on mere state-occasions, but is seen 
 habitually, whether this Neapolitan j)rincess is accompanying her 
 august spouse in an afternoon ride, or whether with a single 
 attendant she grants a private audience to those who desire to pay 
 their homage to her majesty. 
 
 The Emperor is indeed a Saul, — head and shoulders above his 
 people ; and in his court-dress, with his crown upon his fine, fair 
 brow, and his sceptre in his hand, whether receiving the salutes 
 of his subjects or opening the Imperial Chambers, he is a splendid 
 specimen of manhood. His height, when uncovered, is six feet four 
 inches, and his head and body are beautifully proportioned : at a 
 glance one can see, in that full brain and in that fine blue eye, that 
 he is not a mere puppet upon the throne, but a man who thinks. 
 
 The opening of the Chambers is always performed by His Majesty 
 in person. He reads a brief address from the throne, setting forth 
 the condition arid necessities of the Empire, and then, pronouncing 
 the session aberta, descends from the dais, followed in jirocessiou 
 to his Imperial carriage by all the dignitaries of court and mem- 
 bers of the Assembly. The cortege returns to San Christovao 
 through streets that are decorated with hangings of crimson silk 
 
The Opening of the Assemblea Geral. 213 
 
 and satin bi'ocade. There is not the enthusiasm attending this 
 ceremony which is manifested at the inauguration of a new Presi- 
 dent of the United States, but the circumstances are different : the 
 oj^ening address of the Emperor corresponds to the annual message 
 of the President, and there is no occasion for the jubilatic proceed- 
 ings which are the concomitant parts of an inauguration. The 
 monarchial principle is deeply imbedded in the heart of the Bra- 
 zilian, and, in its adaptation to them and their country, it is 
 infinitely superior to republicanism. 
 
 It is appropriate, in connection with the opening of the Assemblea 
 Gei'al, to give a sketch of the events succeeding those which 
 brought the present Emperor to the throne of Brazil. 
 
 It will be remembered that it was in the Campo de Santa Anna 
 that the citizens assembled in April, 1831, and demanded D. Pedro I. 
 to restore the ministry which was the favorite of the people. Upon 
 the refusal of the monarch to this request, repeatedl}- and respect- 
 fully urged through proper magistrates, several divisions of the 
 arni}' and the national guard joined the populace. An adjutant 
 was sent to the Palace of San Christovao for a final answer, which 
 was o-iven in the abdication of the monarch under circumstances 
 which command our highest admiration. 
 
 The Adjutant (Miguel de Frias Vasconcellos) returned at full 
 gallop from San Christovao with the decree of abdication in his 
 hand. It was received with the liveliest demonstrations of joy, 
 and the morning air rang with '^ vivas" to Dom Pedro the Second, 
 
 At an early hour all the Deputies and Senators in the metropolis, 
 together with the ex-3[inisters of State, assembled in the Senate- /^ 
 House and appointed a provisional Regency, consisting of Vergueiro, 
 Francisco de Lima, and the Marquis de Caravellas, who were to / 
 administer the government until the appointment of the permanent 
 Eegency provided for b}^ the Constitution. The son in favor of 
 whom this abdication was made was not six years old : neverthe- 
 less, he was borne in triumph to the city, and the ceremony of his 
 acclamation as Emperor Avas performed with all imaginable enthu- 
 siasm. During the progress of these events, the corps diplomatique 
 had assembled at the house of the Pope's nuncio, to determine on 
 what course they should take in the progressing revolution. ]\Ir. 
 Brown, the American charge d'affaires, declined being present at 
 
214 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 this meeting, apprehending that its special design was to protect 
 the common interests of royalty. Those who met, however, agi-eed 
 to present an address to the existing authorities, in which, after 
 stating that the safety of their several countrymen was perilled in 
 the midst of the popular movements then taking place, they de- 
 manded for them the most explicit enjoyment of the rights ai.d 
 immunities conceded by the laws and treaties of civilized nations 
 They furthermore resolved to wait upon the ex-Emperor in a body, 
 to learn from his own lips whether he had really abdicated ! 
 
 These measures were highly offensive to the new Government, 
 being considered in the light of an uncalled-for interference. That 
 Government was at the same time highly pleased with the course 
 pursued by Mr. Brown, and also by Mr. Gomez, the charge from 
 Colombia, who dissented from the policy of the monarchial diplo- 
 matic agents. The Minister of State remarked that their conduct 
 was that of "true Americans." 
 
 The 9th of April was appointed as the first court-day of Dom 
 Pedro II., while the ex-Emperor still remained in the harbor. A 
 Te Deum was chanted in the Imperial Chapel. The troops appeared 
 in review; and an immense concourse of people, wearing leaves of 
 the "arvore nacional" as a badge of loyaltj^, filled the streets. 
 They detached the horses from the Imperial carriage, so that they 
 mijxht draw their infant sovereiij;n with their own hands. When 
 he had been conveyed to the palace he was placed in a window, 
 and the unnumbered multitude passed before him. After this he 
 received the personal compliments of the corps diplomatique, none 
 of whom were absent, notwithstanding the recent excursion on 
 board the Warspite. 
 
 The new Government courteously offered Dom Pedro I. the use 
 of a public ship. He declined it, on account of the delay and ex- 
 pense that would be necessary to its outfit; remarking, at the same 
 time, that his good friends, the Kings of Great Britain and France, 
 could well afford him the conveyance for himself and family which 
 had been offered by their respective naval commanders on that 
 station. 
 
 On the 17th of June the Assemblea Geral proceeded to the elec- 
 tion of the permanent Regency. The individuals elected were Lima, 
 Costa Carvalho, and Joao Braulio Muniz. The General Assembly 
 
The Regency. 215 
 
 was occupied during this session by exciting debates on the subject 
 of constitutional reform. 
 
 Senhor Antonio Carlos de Andrada presided in the Chamber of 
 Deputies. Jose Bonifacio, who had been appointed by the ex-Em- 
 peror as tutor to his children, was rccommissioned by the Assemblea, 
 that body having decided that the former appointment was invalid. 
 On accepting his charge, that distinguished Brazilian declared that 
 he would receive no compensation for the services he might render 
 in that important capacity, — which declaration he maintained in 
 the spirit of a true patriot. 
 
 Notwithstanding the magnitude of the revolution that had so sud- 
 denly transpired, the public tranquillity was scarcely at all disturbed. 
 
 On the 7th of October official desj)atche8 arrived, bringing the 
 congratulations of the Government of the United States upon the 
 new order of things. This was the first demonstration of the senti- 
 ments of other nations that was communicated at the Brazilian 
 coixrt, and as such was received with peculiar satisfaction. 
 
 In the month of April, 1832, two military riots occurred in Rio 
 de Janeiro, and in July following the Minister of Justice, in his 
 public report, seized the occasion to denounce the venerable Jose 
 Bonifacio, on suspicion of his having connived at the preceding 
 disturbances. The report of a committee in the Camara dos Depu- 
 tados demanded his dismission without a hearing. The Camara 
 agreed to this hy a bare majority, but the Senate dissented, and 
 that plot for degrading Andrada failed. The Regents sent in their 
 resignation to the General Assembly. A deputation from the 
 Chamber of Deputies besought them to remain in office. They 
 consented, but immediately organized a new ministry. 
 
 The next year, however, the opposition triumphed, not in verify- 
 ing these unjust accusations, but in deposing the old patriot as 
 tutor to the young Emperor. 
 
 The year 1834 was celebrated on account of the importait 
 changes that were made in the Constitution of the Empire. One 
 of these created annual assemblies in the j^rovinces, instead of the 
 general councils before held. The members of the provincial 
 assemblies were to be elected once in two years. Another abo- 
 lished the triple Regency, and again conferred that office upon a 
 single individual, to be elected once in four years. 
 
216 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 After the election for Sole Ecgent took i^liice, the Senate delayed 
 for a long time the announcement of the successful candidate; but 
 at length it was made known that Diogo Antonio Feijo, of San 
 Paulo, had received a large majority of the electoral votes. Feijo, 
 although a priest, had been for many j^ears engaged in political 
 life, and only two years before had been elected a Senator. One 
 of the last acts of the pi'eceding administration had been to appoint 
 him Bishop of Mai'iana, a diocese including the rich province of the 
 Minas. Feijo was installed Sole Eegent on the 12th of October, 
 1835. On the 24th he issued a judicious proclamation to the Bra- 
 zilian people, setting forth the principles that he intended to observe 
 in his administration. 
 
 The agitated question of the Regency being settled, affairs as- 
 sumed a more permanent aspect. Several foreign nations, at this 
 juncture, advanced their diplomatic agents to the highest grade. 
 The United States were desired to do the same, but did not consent. 
 
 In 1836 the Government, among other suggestions for the public 
 good, proposed to employ Moravian missionaries to catechize the 
 Indians of the interior. This measure, together Avith every other ori- 
 ginated by this administration, was opposed with the utmost rancor 
 and bitterness by Vasconcellos, a veteran politician of great abili- 
 ties and uncommon eloquence, but of doubtful principles and bad 
 morals. Notwithstanding the arts and power of Vasconcellos, the 
 leading measure of the administration prevailed. This was a loan 
 of two thousand contos of reis (£200,000) for the temporary relief 
 of the treasury. Open and active rebellions were at this time in 
 progress in Rio Grande do Sul, and also in Para. Their influence, 
 however, was scarcely apparent at the capital, where every thing 
 seemed quiet and prosperous. The General Assembly was slow in 
 making provision to suppress these outbreaks, and when they were 
 about to adjourn Feijo prolonged the session a month, "that the 
 members might do their duty." Movements for the abolition uf 
 the Regency, and the installation of the young Emperor, had 
 already commenced, even at this early da^. At times, and in 
 favorable circumstances, they became more apparent. 
 
 Feijo's administration was not calculated to be popular. His 
 character partook of the old Roman sternness. When he had once 
 marked out a course for himself, he followed it against all opposi- 
 
Condition of Parties. 217 
 
 tion. Disinclined to ostentation himself, he did not countenance it 
 in others. He neither practised nor abetted the usual arts of flat- 
 tering the popular will. He sometimes changed his ministers, but 
 his advisers seldom or never. At length, so embarrassed did he 
 find himself between the rebellion of Eio Grande and the flictious 
 opposition that checked his measures for repressing it, that he 
 determined to retire from his office. 
 
 On the 17th of September, 1837, Feijo abdicated the Eegency, 
 and the opposition party came into power. Pedro Araujo Lima, 
 then minister of the Empire, assumed the Eegency by virtue of a 
 provision of the Constitution, although Yasconcellos was the prime 
 mover in the new order of affairs. No commotion took place, and 
 it was evident that the strength of the new Government consisted 
 in union. A different policy was adopted toward the boy Emperor. 
 Feijo had been distant and unceremonious; the new administration 
 became over-attentive. More display Avas made on public occasions, 
 and the inclinations of a people passionately fond of the pomp and 
 circumstance of royalty began to be fully gratified. In October, 
 1838, the votes of the new election were canvassed, and Lima was 
 installed Eegent. His terra of oflSce was to cover the minority of 
 the Emperor. 
 
 Whether the Eegent himself expected such a result or not, it 
 soon became apparent that the dignity of his office was quite 
 eclipsed by the new honors with which the young sovereign was 
 complimented. The frequent changes of ministry hitherto had 
 embarrassed the diplomacy of the Brazilian Government, and had 
 caused much dissatisfaction to foreign powers, who were unwilling 
 to see their claims neglected from any cause. By degrees, how- 
 ever, the foreign as well as the internal affairs of the Government 
 became more permanently adjusted. 
 
 The year 1840 was signalized in Brazil by a new and startling 
 political revolution, which resulted in the abolition of the Eegency. 
 The Emperor, Dom Pedro II., was now in his fifteenth year; and 
 the political party opposed to the Eegent and the existing ministry 
 espoused the project of declaring his minority expired, and of 
 elevating him at once to the full possession of his throne. This 
 project had been occasionally discussed during the last five years. 
 But it had always been characterized as premature and absurd-. It 
 
218 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 wa<5 argued that the Constitution limited the minority of the 
 sovereign to the age of eighteen years, and that was early enough 
 for any young man to have the task of governing so vast an Em- 
 pire. On the othey hand, it was urged that, as to responsibility, the 
 Constitution expressly provided that none should attach itself to 
 the Emperor under any circumstances. Hence an abolition of the 
 Regency would, as matter of course, devolve the powers of the 
 regent upon some other officer. There would be one difference, 
 however. The Eegent, as such, enjoyed the privileges of royalty 
 itself, being also perfectly irresjionsible. This circumstance was 
 urged as a great and growing evil. However desirable it was for 
 a sovereign to possess the attribute of irresponsibility, it was a 
 dangerous thing for a citizen, accidentally elevated to office, to 
 have the power of dispensing good or evil without expecting to 
 answer for his conduct. As these subjects were discussed, much 
 feeling was aroused; but the best-informed persons supposed that 
 the Eegent would be able to defeat the plan laid for his overthrow. 
 
 The debate upon the motion in the House of Deputies to declare 
 the Emperor of age began early in July, and at first turned 
 principally upon constitutional objections. The legislature had, in 
 fact, no power to amend or overstep the Constitution. But the 
 plan was arranged, minds were heated, and the passions of the 
 people began to be enlisted. Violence of language prevailed, and 
 personal violence began to be threatened. Antonio Carlos de 
 Andrada, already described as a man of great learning and elo- 
 quence, but at the same time ^ery and uncontrollable, stood forth 
 as the champion of the assailing party, accusing the Regent and 
 his ministry of usurpation, especially since the 11th of March, when 
 the Imperial Princess, Donna Januaria, became of age. His efforts 
 were powerfully resisted, but his cause rapidly gained favor both 
 in the Assembly and among the people. 
 
 Galvao, until recently attached to the other party, made an 
 impressive speech on the side of immediate acclamation as 
 inevitable. 
 
 Alvares Machado demanded that party trammels should now be 
 abandoned. "The cause of the Emperor was the cause of the 
 nation, and ought to receive the approbation of every lover of the 
 country." 
 
Debates in the House of Deputies. 219 
 
 Navarro, a young but powerful member from Matto Grosso, fol- 
 lowed in a violent and denunciatory speech, in which he stigmatized 
 the Eegent, and all his acts, in the most opprobrious language. 
 Wliile in the heat of his harangue, he suddenly exclaimed, " Viva 
 a maioridade de sua Majestade Imperial!" The crowded galleries 
 had hitherto observed the most religious silence; but this exclama- 
 tion drew forth a burst of enthusiastic and prolonged applause. 
 Navarro, no longer able to make himself heard, drew his hand- 
 kerchief from his bosom to respond to the vivas from the gallery. 
 Members of the other party sitting near him imagined they saw a 
 dagger gleaming in his hand, and, not knowing whose turn might 
 come first, began to flee for their lives. One seized Navarro to 
 keep him quiet; but he, not perceiving the reason of the assault, 
 furiousl}^ repelled it. For a few moments the most intense and 
 uncontrollable excitement prevailed; but order was soon restored. 
 
 Crowds of people now assembled out of doors, demanding the 
 elevation of the young Emperor. Some went so far as to proclaim 
 his majority in the public squares of the city. The ministerial 
 party desperately resisted these strange movements in the House, 
 but they were unable to stave otf the debate. 
 
 Lirapo de Abreo, (afterward Visconde de Abaete,) an ex-minis- 
 ter, was in favor of the Eevolution, but he wished it to be a deli- 
 berate and consistent one, — at least preceded by the report of a 
 committee justifying the step. After much opposition to the mea- 
 sure, the committee was appointed, and a momentary calm ensued. 
 During the night both parties reviewed their positions. The clubs 
 and lodges, held their sessions, and the opposition met in caucus. 
 The Eegent and his ministry were also in conclave. Vasconcellos, 
 the Senator from ]\[inas-Geraes, the veteran politician, but a man 
 who had long been obnoxious on account of great moral delin- 
 quencies, was called in as their counsellor. 
 
 The session of the Chamber of Deputies next day was opened in 
 the midst of the deepest anxiety. The galleries were crowded with 
 people. The report of the committee was anxiously looked for, 
 and indeed imperiously demanded, but did not appear. 
 
 Navarro accused the majority of the committee of treacherously 
 intending delay. He urged the immediate and unceremonious 
 declaration of the Emperor's majority. He appealed to the galle- 
 
220 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ries, and received a deafening response of vivas to Dom Pedro II. 
 Indescribable confusion ensued. The President of the Chamber 
 attempted to call up the order of the day ; but it was impossible. 
 The absorbing question must be discussed. The more moderate of 
 the Opposition wished the j'oung EmjDcror's elevation deferred till 
 his birthday, — the 2d of December. The more violent exclaimed 
 vehemently against any delay Avhatever. The debate was pro- 
 tracted to an unusual length. In the midst of it a messenger 
 entered, bearing documents from the Regent. They were read by 
 the Secretary. The first was a nomination of Bernardo Pereira de 
 Vasconccllos as Minister of the Empire ! At the mention of the 
 name of Vasconccllos, irrepressible sensations of indignation were 
 apparent throughout the House. The Secretary proceeded to read 
 the second document, which proved to be an act of prorogation, 
 adjourning the General Assembly over from that moment to the 
 20th of November following. 
 
 Confusion and indignation were now at their height. The people 
 in the galleries could not be restrained. They poured down a tor- 
 rent of imprecations upon the administration, mingled with vivas 
 to the majority of Dom Pedro II. Antonio Carlos, Martin Fran- 
 cisco, (the two Andradas,) Limpo de Abreo, sprang to their feet, 
 and one after the other entered their vehement protests against 
 this act of madness on the part of the Government. They charged 
 the Begent with treason, and declared that every Brazilian should 
 resist his high-handed measures. Tliey represented Lima as 
 clutching, with a death-gT*asp, the power that was about to escape 
 from his hands. Thc}^ denounced him as a usurper, willing to 
 sacrifice the monarch and the throne, at the hazard of lighting up 
 the flames of civil war in every corner of the Empire. Vasconccllos 
 was portrayed as a monster whose name was significant of every 
 vice and crime, and withal the worst enemy the Emperor had; but 
 it was into his hands that the young monarch was now betrayed I 
 
 The President of the House attempted to enforce the Act of Pro- 
 rogation, but was prevented. Antonio Carlos de Andrada now 
 started forth, and called upon every Brazilian patriot to follow him 
 to the halls of the Senate, — situated upon the Campo de Santa 
 Anna, and nearly a mile distant. His friends in the House, and 
 the people en masse, accomj)anied him. The multitude increased 
 
Acclamation of Dom Pedro H. 221 
 
 at every step. On the arrival of the Deputies at the Senate, the 
 two Houses instantly resolved themselves into joint session, and 
 appointed a deputation, with Antonio Carlos at its Lead, to wait 
 upon the Emperor and obtain his consent to the acclamation. 
 During the absence of the deputation, several of the Senators en- 
 dearored to calm the passions of the people. The multitude with- 
 out had increased to the number of several thousand. No soldiers 
 appeared; but the cadets of the Military Academy, in the heat of 
 their juvenile enthusiasm, rushed to arms and prepared to defend 
 their sovereign. 
 
 Presently the deputation returned, and announced that, after its 
 members had represented to the Emperor the state of affairs which 
 existed at the present crisis, His Majesty had consented to assume 
 the reins of government, and had ordered the Eegent to revoke his 
 obnoxious decrees and to pronounce the Chambers again in ses- 
 sion. Thunders of applause followed this announcement. The 
 enthusiasm of the people knew no bounds. The country was saved, 
 and no blood was shed ! The citizens proceeded to congratulate 
 one another upon this peaceful triumph of public opinion. 
 
 The discussions of the Assembly turned upon the manner of con- 
 summating the revolution which had thus singulai-ly commenced. 
 Lima was now stigmatized as the ex-Pegent, and was pronounced 
 incompetent to reassemble the body which he had tried to pro- 
 rogue. The Marquis of Paranagua, President of the Senate, 
 declared that neither House was now in session, but that the mem- 
 bers of both composed an august popular assemblage, personifying 
 the nation, demanding that their Emperor be considered no longer 
 a minor. It was finally resolved to remain in permanent session 
 until His Majesty should appear and receive in their presence the 
 oath prescribed by the Constitution. The Assembly consequently 
 remained in the Senate-House all night. A body of the National 
 Guards, the alumni of the Military Academy, and numerous citizens, 
 also remained to guard them. 
 
 At daylight the people generally began to reassemble. By ten 
 o'clock not les3 than eight or ten thousand of the most respectable 
 citizens sirrounded the palace of the Senate. At that hour the 
 President of the Assembly made a formal declaration of the objects 
 of the present convocation. The rolls of both Houses were then 
 
222 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 called, and the legal number, both of Senators and of Deputies, 
 being found pi-esent, the President arose and said: — 
 
 "I, as the organ of the Eei^resentatives of this nation in General 
 Assembly convened, declare that His Majesty Dom Pcdi'o II. is 
 from this moment in his majority, and in the full exercise of his 
 constitutional prerogatives. The majority of His Majesty Senhor 
 Dom Pedro II. ! Viva Senhor Dom Pedro II., constitutional Em- 
 peror and perpetual defender of Brazil ! ! Viva Senhor Dom Pedro 
 11.!!!" 
 
 Millions of vivas from the members of the Assembly, from the 
 Bpectators in the gallery, and from the multitude in the Campo, now 
 rent the air in response, and were prolonged with indescribable 
 enthusiasm and delight. Deputations were appointed to wait upon 
 His Majesty when he should arrive, and to prepare a proclamation 
 for the Empire. At half-past three o'clock the Imperial escort ap- 
 peared. His Majesty was preceded by the dignitaries of the jjalace, 
 and followed by his Imperial sisters. On beholding the young 
 Emperor, the enthusiasm of the crowd exceeded any former limit. 
 Nothing but a reiteration of vivas could be heard in the Campo 
 daring the whole ceremony. His Majesty was received with all 
 possible formality, and conducted to the throne, near which the 
 members of the diplomatic corps were already seated in their 
 court-uniform. The Emperor now knelt down and received the 
 oath f)rescribed by the Constitution; and, after the auto de Jura- 
 mento was read aloud and solemnly signed, the following proclama- 
 tion, already drafted by Antonio Carlos de Andrada, and approved 
 by the Assembly, was now uttered: — 
 
 "Brazilians! — The General Legislative Assembly of Brazil, re- 
 cognising that happy intellectual development with which it has 
 pleased Divine Providence to endow his Imperial Majesty Dom 
 Pedro II., recognising also the inherent evils which attach them- 
 selves to an unsettled government, — witnessing, moreover, the 
 unanimous desire of the peo])le of this capital, which it believes to 
 be in perfect accordance with the desire of the whole Empire, — viz. : 
 to confer upon our august monarch the powers which the Constitu- 
 tion secures to him; therefore, in view of such important con- 
 siderations, this body has, for the well-being of the country, seen 
 fit to declare the majority of Dom Pedro II., so that he may enter 
 
Public Congratulations. 223 
 
 at once upon the full exercise of his powers as constitutional 
 Emperor and perpetual defender of Brazil. Our august monarch 
 has just taken in our presence the solemn oath required by the 
 Constitution. 
 
 "Brazilians! The hopes of the nation are converted into 
 reality. A new era has dawned upon us. May it be one of 
 uninterrupted union and prospei'ity ! May we prove worthy of so 
 great a blessing !" 
 
 After the ceremonies of the occasion had been completed, His 
 Majesty proceeded to the city palace, accompanied by the National 
 Guards and the people. In the evening a numerous and splendid 
 reception took place, and the joy of the whole city was manifested 
 by a spontaneous and most brilliant illumination. 
 
 To the astonishment of every one, the revolution was now com- 
 plete. The Regency was abolished; perfect tranquillity prevailed; 
 and Dom Pedro 11. — the boy who, when six years old, had been 
 acclaimed sovereign of a vast Empire — was now at fifteen invested 
 with all the prerogatives of his Imperial throne. The youthful 
 Emperor was very tall for his age, but not of the handsome pro- 
 portions for which he is now so distinguished. His mind was of 
 an exceedingly mature cast. As a student he was, it may be said 
 without any exaggeration, most remarkable in his tastes, applica- 
 tion, and rapid advancement. The study of the natural sciences 
 — not a mere smattering of them, but the most thorough and 
 abstruse investigation — was his delight; and his facility for ac- 
 quiring language was such, that this day he can converse in the 
 principal tongues of Europe. It was therefore no empty phrase 
 which Antonio Carlos do Andrada used when he spoke of the 
 ''happy intellectual development" of His young Imperial Majesty. 
 He was not a mere " boy Emperor." 
 
 The preceding year had witnessed the inauguration of steam- 
 navigation along the whole Brazilian sea-coast, so that the news 
 of the recent events at Eio de Janeiro was soon made known in 
 every town of the extensive Atlantic board, and by special couriers 
 in a few weeks the most remote parts of the wide Empire were 
 sending up their vivas for Dom Pedro II. 
 
 Congratulations were the order of the day. Every society, 
 every public institution, every province, and nearly every town, 
 
224 . Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 from the capital to the remotest parts of the Empire, hastened, on 
 the reception of the news, not only to celebrate the event with 
 extravagant rejoicing, but also to send a deputation to utter, in the 
 presence of the Emperor, their most profound sentiments of joy at 
 his elevation to the sovereignty, and their cherished hopes of his 
 prosperity and happiness. 
 
 Thus Avas accomplished, without bloodshed, the third j^opular 
 revolution of Brazil. The Constitution, with the exception of the 
 article relating to the majority of the Emperor, remained intact. 
 
 In regard to tlie peculiar form of rule of the pi-eceding nine 
 years, it may be said that there can be no doubt that the govern- 
 ment of the Regency was a benefit' to Brazil. During the entire 
 period of its existence it had to struggle with serious financial 
 difficulties, and also with the formidable rebellion of Rio Grande 
 do Sul, besides temporal outbreaks in other provinces. Neverthe- 
 less, improvement became the order of the day, and, in various 
 ways, was really secured. 
 
 The personal rule of the Emperor commenced under auspicious 
 circumstances. lie was the object of an enthusiasm w^hich has 
 never waned. The two leaders of his first Cabinet were Antonio 
 Carlos and Martin Francisco Andrada. Their elder brother, 
 Jose Bonifacio, was no more. In 1833, upon his deposition as tutor 
 to the Emperor, he withdrew from public life, and retired to the 
 beautiful island of Paqueta in the Bay of Rio, w^here he remained 
 until a short time before his death at Nictherohy in 1838. 
 
 Antonio Carlos at the very outset frankly and lucidly set forth 
 the principles upon which the ministerial action would be based 
 under the new order of things. Those principles were safe and 
 consistent; and from the known energy of the Andradas, together 
 with their associates, it may be presumed that no eftbrts were 
 spared to put them in practice. 
 
 The nation at large was exhilarated with the idea of the glorious 
 revolution that had transpired ; but the legislature, tired by its 
 recent paroxj'sms, soon fell back into its old method of doing busi- 
 ness. The first leading measure of the opposition was the appoint- 
 ment of a Council of State, the members of which were to hold the 
 office of special advisers to the Emperor. It became an immediate 
 and protracted subject of discussion, but did not succeed till late in 
 
Preparations for the Coronation. 226 
 
 the following year. Things throughout the Empire moved on in 
 their ordinary course, save that, when the subject of the Emperor's 
 elevation lost its novelty, that of his approaching coronation became 
 the theme of universal interest and of unbounded anticipation. 
 
 The early part of the year 1841 was fixed upon for the corona- 
 tion. Preparations for that event were set on foot long in advance 
 of the time. Expectants of honors and emoluments attempted to 
 rival each other in parade and display. Extraordinary embassies 
 were sent out from the different courts of Europe, in compliment 
 to the Brazilian throne. 
 
 While diplomatists and politicians were intent upon sharing the 
 honors of this occasion, the artisans and shopkeepers of the me- 
 tropolis displayed quite as much tact in securing the j)rofits of it. 
 Exorbitant prices were demanded for every article of ornament 
 and luxury; but those articles had now become necessary, and 
 aspiring poverty, not less than grudging avarice, was compelled 
 ^o submit to extortion. 
 
 Before the next session of the General Assembly difficulties had 
 occurred which seriously embarrassed the administration. Several 
 of the provinces had resisted the new appointments of presidents, 
 and in so doing had manifested tendencies to revolution. But the 
 most serious evil grew out of the lonflc-standinij rebellion in Rio 
 Grande do Sul. In the anxiety of the Cabinet to bring this inter- 
 nal war to a close, Alvares Machado had been appointed an agent 
 of the Government to treat with the rebels. Much confidence had 
 been reposed in his personal influence with those in revolt, and he 
 had been invested with extraordinary and unconstitutional powers. 
 But, with all the facilities offered them, the insurgents refused to 
 compromise. Machado was then appointed President of the j)ro- 
 vince. 
 
 In this office, instead of wielding a rod of iron, as his predeces- 
 sors had done, or had attempted to do, he adopted conciliatory 
 measures, and rather entreated a negotiation. This attitude was 
 stigmatized as dishonorable to the Empire, and such an outcry was 
 made in regard to it as to excite general alarm lest the interests 
 of the throne should be betrayed. This outcry was aimed at the 
 ministry. A change was demanded, and was at length obtained. 
 On the 23d of March the Andradas and their friends, with a single 
 
 15 
 
226 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 exception, were dismissed; and thus those who had brought abcut 
 the new order of things were supplanted, just in time for their op- 
 ponents to secure the decorations and the emoluments that were 
 soon to be distributed. 
 
 Mortifying as this circumstance may have been in some of its 
 bearings, it caused no grief to the Andradas in view of their per- 
 sonal wishes. They could point to the early days of their political 
 prosperity, in proof of their disinterested devotion to their country. 
 They could now, as then, retire in honorable poverty, preserving 
 the claim of pure patriotism as a more precious treasure than 
 wealth or titles. Theirs was the distinction that would cause pos- 
 terity to inquire why they did not receive the honors they had 
 deserved. Other men were welcome to the ignominy of wearing 
 titles they had never merited. 
 
 When the General Assembly convened in May, it was found ex- 
 pedient to postpone the coronation. Thus, for two months longer 
 this anticipated fete continued to be the all-engrossing topic of 
 conversation and of preparation in every circle, from the Emperor 
 and Princesses down to the lowest classes. That anxiously-looked- 
 for event transpired at length, on the 18th of July, 1841. It was 
 magnificent beyond the expectations of the most sanguine. The 
 splendor of the day itself, — the unnumbered thousands of citizens 
 and strangers that thronged the streets, — the tasteful and costly 
 decorations displayed in the public squares and in front of private 
 houses, — the triumphal arches, — the pealing salutes of music and 
 of cannon, — the perfect order and tranquillity that prevailed in the 
 public processions and ceremonies of the day, together with nearly 
 everything else that could be imagined or wished, — seemed to com- 
 bine and make the occasion one of the most imposing that ever 
 transpired in the New World. The act of consecration was per- 
 formed in the Imperial Chapel, and was followed by a levee in the 
 palace of the city. The illuminations at night were upon a splen- 
 did scale, and the festivities of the occasion were prolonged nine 
 successive days. 
 
 So far as pomp and parade could promote the stability of a 
 Government and secure a lasting respect for a crown, every thing 
 was done for Brazil on that day that possibly could be done with- 
 out greater means at command. There were circumstances, how- 
 
The Council of State. 227 
 
 ever, connected with the monarchial pomp and the lavish expendi- 
 tures of this coronation, which could not fail to be very embarrass- 
 ing to those who had to struggle with them. The finances of the 
 Empire were at the very lowest ebb, and constantly deteriorating. 
 The money used in support of this grand fete, including an expense 
 of one hundred thousand dollars for an Imperial crown, was bor- 
 rowed, and added to an immense public debt. In addition to this, 
 the Government was far from being stable and settled. Its 
 councils were divided, and its policy vacillating. The existence 
 of this state of things formed a principal j)retext for the splendid 
 demonstration alluded to. It was thought to be an object of the 
 first importance to surround the throne with such a degree of 
 splendor as would forever hallow it in the eyes of the people. 
 
 After the coronation, the sessions of the General Assembl}" were 
 resumed. On the 23d of November a law was passed establishing 
 the Conselho de Estado. This body was modelled upon the double 
 basis of the ordinary and extraordinary Privy Councils of Great 
 Britain. Among the gentlemen composing this Council were Lima, 
 Calmon, Carneiro Leao, and Vasconcellos. The verj- individuals who 
 oj)posed the Andradas at the period of the young Emperor's eleva- 
 tion, and who were then put down by acclamation, had, in the 
 short space of a year, not only managed to get back into public 
 favor, but also to secure life -appointments of the most influential 
 kind. 
 
 Vasconcellos, it is true, sought no titles. They were playthings 
 which he could easily dispense with for the gratification of his 
 fellow-partisans. But he loved power, and neither mortifications 
 nor defeat diverted him an instant from its pursuit. He finally 
 gained a position which probably suited his inclinations better 
 than any other, and in which, as the master-spirit of the body, 
 his influence must be widely felt. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1842, the Honorable Mr. Hunter,* United 
 States Charge d'Aff'aires at Eio de Janeiro, presented to His Majesty 
 the Emperor his credentials as envoy-extraordinary and minister- 
 
 * No foreign diplomatist in Brazil left warmer friends than the late Honorable 
 Mr. Hunter, of Rhode Island. His accomplishments as a scholar and his afia- 
 bility as a gentleman won the hearts of all. 
 
228 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 plenipotentiary, to which i-ank he had been advanced. Thia com- 
 l)liment was speedily reciprocated by the ajipointment of the 
 Honorable Mr, Lisbon as the minister of Brazil at Washington. 
 
 In continuance of the present historical sketch of Brazilian 
 affairs, it is painful to add that the year 1842 was marked by 
 rej)catcd and serious disturbances in different parts of the Empire. 
 The}' commenced with the elections for deputies. Various frauds 
 had been enacted, by suddenly changing the day, hour, and places 
 of elections. What was worse, bodies of troops and armed men 
 were introduced to influence votes, while crowds of voters Avere 
 brought in from other districts. In short, bribery, corruption, and 
 force triumphed over the free exercise of public opinion. It is 
 not to be presumed that one party was guilty of these measures 
 alone; but it ajipeared, in the issue, that the opposition had suc- 
 ceeded and that the ministei'ial party was in the minority. The 
 conduct of the ministry was such — though they acted with some 
 degree of plausibility in regard to preventing the regular meeting 
 of the Assembly and in issuing a decree for an extraordinary 
 session — that the sounds of rebellion were heard in parts of the 
 Empire which hitherto had been the most faithful and the most 
 tranquil. San Paulo and Minas-Geraes were in commotion and 
 disorder. The utmost consternation prevailed, and even at the 
 capital an incendiary proclamation was posted up at the corners 
 of the streets, calling upon the people to free the Emperor from 
 the domination which had been imposed upon him, and to rescue 
 both the throne and the Constitution from threatened annihilation. 
 
 It is interesting to note that the Brazilians, in their internal 
 commotions, put the blame in the right place, and have ever 
 rallied around J). Pedro. He, on the other hand, has always 
 proved, by his character and by his measures, worthy of their 
 devotion. The power of the Emperor of Brazil is not like that 
 of the monarch of Eussia, but is as limited as that of the sove- 
 reign of the British realm. 
 
 The Government was now driven to extreme measures. The 
 militia was called out, and martial law was proclaimed in the 
 three disturbed provinces. The supremacy of the law was main- 
 tained. The prospects of the Empire were for a short time very 
 gloomy and unpromising, but by degrees the storm blow over. 
 
The Imperial Marriages. 229 
 
 Order was gradually restored without actual hostilities or the loss 
 of many lives. The worst consequences of the rebellion were expe- 
 rienced in the disti'icts where it occurred, although public con- 
 fidence and the national revenue suffered severely. 
 
 The elections at the close of the j'ear occurred with more quiet- 
 ness, and on the 1st of January, 1843, the Emperor oj)ened the 
 General Assembly in person, and a new ministry' was appointed. 
 From that time to this there has been a softening down of parties 
 and factions ; and, though there has always been a certain amount 
 of corruption and unscrupulousncss in the political affairs of the 
 nation, no great disturbances have affected its welfare, and there 
 has been a constant tendency to obedience to law. In connection 
 with this, financial diflSculties were diminished and national 
 prosperity increased. 
 
 The most remarkable public events that transpired at Rio 
 during the year 1843 were the Imperial marriages. They were 
 celebrated with great rejoicings and all possible splendor. 
 
 As earl}^ as July, 1842, the Emperor Dom Pedro II. had rati- 
 fied a contract of marriage with Iler Eoyal Highness the Most 
 Serene Princess Senhora Donna Theresa Christina Maria, the 
 august sister of His Majesty the King of the Two Sicilies. The 
 marriage was duly solemnized at Naples, and, on the 5th of March, 
 a Brazilian squadron, composed of a frigate and two corvettes, 
 sailed from Rio de Janeiro to the Mediterranean, to conduct the 
 Empress to her future home. 
 
 In the mean time, on the 27th of March, a French squadron 
 arrived, under the command of His Roj'al Highness Prince de Join- 
 ville, son of Louis Philippe. This was Joinville's second visit to 
 Brazil. Soon after his arrival he made matrimonial propositions 
 to Her Imperial Highness Donna Francisca, the third sister of the 
 Emperor. The customary negotiations were closed with despatch. 
 On the 1st of May the marriage was solemnized at Boa Vista. 
 On the 13th of May the Prince and his Imperial bride sailed for 
 Europe. 
 
 The Empress Donna Theresa arrived at Rio on the 3d of Sep- 
 tember, and was received not only with magnificent ceremonies, 
 but also with sincere cordiality on the part of the Brazilians. 
 
 It may be mentioned here that the eldest sister of D. Pedro II., 
 
230 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Donna Maria, Queen of Portugal, had previously taken, as hot 
 royal consort. Prince Fernando Augusto, of Saxe-Coburg Gotha; 
 and on the 28th of April, 1844, Iler Imperial Highness Donna 
 Januaria was also married to a Neapolitan prince, — the Count 
 of Aquilla, brother to the Emjircss of Brazil and the King of the 
 Two Sicilies. Thus, in the course of a single j^ear, the Imperial 
 family of Brazil contracted honorable and flattering alliances with 
 the courts of Euroj^e. 
 
 In 1844, Brazil was rejoiced by the birth of the Imperial Prince 
 Dom Affonso; but his untimely death the following year brought 
 mourning u2:»on the nation. In 1846, the Princess Isabella (the 
 present heir-presumptive) was born, and, in 1847, her sister, the 
 Donna Leopoldina. In case of the death of these princesses, and 
 the demise of the Emperor without other issue, the Constitution 
 provides that the eldest child (Donna Januaria) shall be heir to 
 the Imperial throne. 
 
 In 1850, the slave-trade (which had continued despite solemn 
 treaties) was effectually put down ; and, soon after, a number of the 
 leading dealers in the inhuman traffic — men who had hitherto held 
 high position in society — were banished. 
 
 The same j^ear witnessed the first steamship-line to Eui"ope ; 
 and now the Empire is united to the Old World by no less than 
 three lines; and one line links together the two Americas. 
 
 For the last ten years the progress of Brazil has been onward. 
 Her public credit abroad is of the highest character. Internal 
 improvements have been projected and are being executed on a 
 large scale; tranquillity has prevailed, undisturbed by the slightest 
 provincial revolt; party spirit has lost its early virulence; the 
 attention of all is more than ever directed to the peaceful triumphs 
 of agriculture and legitimate commerce; public instruction is being 
 more widelj'' diffused ; and, though much is yet required to elevate 
 the masses, still, if Brazil shall continue to carry out the principles 
 of her noble Constitution, and if education and morality shall 
 abound in her borders, she will in due time take position in the 
 first rank of nations. 
 
 Note for 1866. — In October, 1864, the Princess Imperial, Donna Isabella, was married to Prince 
 Louis Philippe M. F. Gaston d"Orleans, Count d'Eu, eldest son of the Due de Nemours. They sj)ent 
 the greatf 1- portion of 1S65 in Europe. In December, 1.S64, the second Princess, Donna Leopoldina, 
 was nuuried to Prince Auguste of Saxe-Coburg Gotha, whose mother was Clementine d'Orleans, sa 
 that both the Princesses married grandsons of Louis Philippe. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 TH» EMPEROR OF BRAZIL HIS REMARK.\BLE TALENTS AND ACQUIREMENTS NEW 
 
 YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY THE FIRST SIGHT OF D. PEDRO II. AN EMPEROE 
 
 ON BOARD AN AMERICAN STEAMSHIP CAPTAIN FOSTER AND THE "CITY OF 
 
 PITTSBURG" HOW D. PEDRO II. WAS RECEIVED BY THE "SOVEREIGNS" AN 
 
 EXHIBITION OF AMERICAN ARTS AND MANUFACTURES DIFFICULTIES OVERCOME 
 
 VISIT OF THE EMPEROR HIS KNOWLEDGE OF AMERICAN AUTHORS SUCCESS 
 
 AMONG THE PEOPLE VISIT TO THE PALACE OF S. CHRISTOVAO LONGFELLOW, 
 
 HAWTHORNE, AND WEBSTER. 
 
 We naturally turn with interest and a laudable curiosity to look 
 at the character and abilities of the monarch who has been called 
 by Providence to the head of a growing nation. The Emperor of 
 Brazil, by the various limits of the Constitution, has not the scope 
 for kingcraft that is the heritage of Alexander II. or the achieve- 
 ment of Napoleon III. The life of some crowned heads is only an 
 official one; very few of the Dei gratia rulers possess intrinsic 
 merit : they are educated, refined, and may or may not be affable. 
 In the eye of the legitimist their chief distinction is the blood which 
 has coursed through the veins of generations of kings. He Avho is 
 situated half-way between the legitimist and the red republican 
 regards with a greater or less degree of veneration the repre- 
 sentative of executive power which he beholds in the ruler, and is 
 possibly excited to a certain admiration by the amiable and bene- 
 volent character which he who sits upon the throne may possess. 
 But it is very rare, in the history of nations, to find a monarch 
 who combines all that the most scrupulous legitimist would exact, 
 who is limited by all the checks that a constitutionalist would 
 require, and yet has the greatest claim for the respect of his sub- 
 jects and the admiration of the world, in his native talent and in 
 his acquisitions in science and literature. These rare combinations 
 
 meet in Dom Pedro II. In his veins courses the united blood of 
 
 281 
 
232 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the Braganzas, the Bourbons, and the Hajjsburgs. By marriage 
 he is related to the Eoyal and Imperial families of England, 
 France, Eussia, Spain, and Naples. His fother (Dom Pedro I.) 
 was an energetic Braganza; his mother (Donna Leopoldiua) a 
 Hapsburg, and sister-in-law to Napoleon I. His relatives, it will 
 be seen, are of every grade, — from the constitutional monarch to 
 the most absolute ruler. 
 
 His powers, modified by the Brazilian Constitution, have already 
 been considered; and it remains to point out his chief and com- 
 manding title to the regard of his nation and the world. 
 
 He has devoted much time to the science of chemistry, and his 
 laboratory at San Christovao is always the scene of new experi- 
 ments. Lieutenant Strain, the noble hero of the Darien Expedi- 
 tion, — whose science is as well known as his kindness and bravery, 
 — informed me that, on a visit to Rio de Janeiro more than ten 
 years ago, he found the Emperor a thorough devotee to the studies 
 of natural phenomena. Dr Eeinhardt — who has spent many years 
 in Brazil as a naturalist — visited the capital of the Empire when 
 D. Pedro II. was not yet out of his teens : the latter heard that an 
 American savant was about to enter upon a scientific exploration 
 of the Empire, and sent for him to aid him in performing certain 
 new chemical experiments, accounts of which had been perused by 
 his Majesty in the European journals of science. Dr. Eeinhardt 
 further added, that the young monarch, in his enthusiasm, paid no 
 attention to the time that flew by as they, in a tropic clime and a 
 close room, were cooped up for hours over fumigating chemicals. 
 
 It is well known at Eio de Janeiro that he is a good topo- 
 graphical engineer, and his theoretical knowledge of perspective is 
 sometimes put in practice; for the German Prince Adalbert, in 
 the published account of his visit to Brazil, states that the Emperor 
 presented him with a very creditable painting from the Imperial 
 palette. He has a great penchant for philological studies. I have 
 heard him speak three different languages, and know, by report, 
 that he converses in three more; and, so far as translating is con- 
 cerned, he is acquainted with every principal Eui'opean tongue. 
 His library abounds in the best histories, biographies, and encyclo- 
 pedias. Some one has remarked that a stranger can scarcely start 
 a subject in regard to his own country that would be foreign to 
 
The Accomplishments of D. Pedro IL 233 
 
 Dom Pedro II. There is not a session of the Brazilian Historical 
 Society from which he is absent; and he is familiar with the modern 
 literature of England, Germany, and the United States, to a degree 
 of minuteness absolutely surprising. When Lamartine's appeal for 
 assistance was wafted over the waters, it was the Emperor of 
 Brazil who rendered him greater material aid than any other, by 
 subscribing for five thousand copies of his work, for which he 
 remitted to the sensitive litterateur one hundred thousand francs. 
 His favorite modern poet is Mr. Longfellow, for whom he has an 
 unbounded admiration. 
 
 In literature and science he is not, however, confined to large 
 tomes, but a portion of each morning is allotted to the perusal 
 of foreign periodicals and journals, as well as the publications 
 of Brazil. That which emanates from his own pen is rai-ely seen ; 
 but I have before me some original lines by the monarch, which a 
 member of the diplomatic corjjs at Rio copied from the album 
 of one of the Imperial household. They were doubtless never 
 intended for the public eye; but the justness of their sentiment in 
 English, if not the mellifluousness of their Portuguese, is appre- 
 ciable by every reader of this work. (See Appendix.) 
 
 In 1856, the Honorable Luther Bradish, the accomplished and 
 dignified presiding officer of the New York Historical Society, at 
 the June meeting of that association, proposed Dom Pedro II. as 
 an honorary member of that learned body. The proposition was 
 seconded by Marshal S. Bidwell, Esq., and I need hardly add that 
 the vote was carried by acclamation. The same society, on a sub- 
 sequent evening, was briefly addressed by the Pev. Dr. Osgood, 
 whose remark in regard to the Emperor of Brazil is as true as it 
 is forcible : — " Dom Pedro II. , by his character, and by his taste, 
 application, and acquisitions in literature and science, ascends from 
 his mere fortuitous position as Emperor, and takes his place in Lhe 
 world as a man." 
 
 The Brazilian ruler receives his talents in a direct line : Dom 
 Pedro I. was a man of great energy and ability, and Donna Leo- 
 poldina was not without some of that power which characterized 
 Maria Theresa. The early studies of Dom Pedro II. wex'e con- 
 ducted by the Franklin of Brazil, — Jose Bonifacio de Andrada ; 
 and we know not how much his tastes for science may have been 
 
234 Brazil and tue Brazilians. 
 
 influenced by that ardent admirer of the study of nature. His 
 mind early became imbued witli such jjursuits, and, when growing 
 up to manhood, as we have ah'cady seen, he omitted no oppor- 
 tunity for making additions to his store of knowledge. 
 
 The first time that I saw the Emperor he was in citizen's dress, 
 accompanied by the Empress. They were in a coach-and-six, pre- 
 ceded and followed by horse-guards. He hkes a rapid movement, 
 and, whether on horseback or in a carriage, his chamberlains and 
 guards are kept at a pace contrary to the usual manifestations 
 of activity among the Brazilians. Two of the dragoons precede 
 the coach at full gallop, and, at the blast of their bugles, the sti*eet 
 is cleared of every encumbrance in the shape of promenaders and 
 vehicles. It has, however, occurred to me that the neck-muscles 
 of their Majesties must be exceedingly fatigued after their frequent 
 city and suburban rides, for the humblest subject who salutes them 
 is reciprocated in his attention. Their usual afternoon-drive is 
 through the Catete and Botafogo to the Botanical Garden. 
 
 A combination of circumstances brought me afterward into a 
 m.uch closer relation w^ith his Majesty than as a mere spectator 
 of his fine form when he passed rapidly by. In 1852, during the 
 temporary absence of Mr. Ferdinand Coxe, the Secretary of the 
 United States Legation at Rio de Janeiro, I was chosen to fill his 
 place, and finally, after his resignation, I was aj^pointed Acting 
 Secretary. In September, 1852, it became my duty to go to the 
 Palace of San Christovao in company with Governor Kent, who, in 
 the absence of the Minister-Plenipotentiary, held the post of Charge 
 d' Affaires in addition to that of American Consul. The occasion 
 that demanded this official visit of Governor Kent was, in accord- 
 ance with court-etiquette, to thank his Majest}^ for having accepted 
 the invitation of the American CajDtain Foster to visit the "City 
 of Pittsburg." This large merchant-steamer was on its way to 
 California via the Straits of Majellan, and, while stopping for coals 
 in the harbor of RiO de Janeiro, the captain invited the Emperor 
 and his court to an excursion on board the splendid specimen of 
 American naval architecture under his command. The Emperor 
 having signified his acceptance, all was made ready, and, at eleven 
 o'clock, the guns of the forts and of the men-of-war told that the 
 Imperial party were embarking in the state-barges for the steamer 
 
The Emperor on an American Steamer. 235 
 
 The day was most beautiful, and Captain Foster spared no pains in 
 adorning his fine steamer in a manner worthy of his guests. Flags 
 and streamers were suspended from every mast, the standards of 
 the North American Eepublic and the South American Emj)iro 
 floated in unison, while a full orchestra from the flower-strewn 
 deck sent forth the national anthems of Brazil and the Union. 
 "When the barges reached the " City of Pittsburg," Caj)tain 
 raster, with the American Charge d'AflEixii*es by his side, received 
 the Emperor, and, when welcoming him on board, placed the 
 steamer at his Majesty's order. 
 
 Doni Pedro II. was accompanied by the Empress, and also by 
 the Cabinet Ministers, the Imperial household, and the chief 
 officers of the array and navy. All were in full court-dress, with 
 the exception of their Majesties. 
 
 The excursion was of unusual interest. The fine steamer of 
 twenty-two hundred tons ploughed her way through the various 
 anchorages until she reached the men-of-war; the cannon of the 
 forts saluted her as she passed, and the vessels-of-war not only 
 sent forth their booming salvos, but the yards were manned, and 
 the sailors shouted their loud vivas to D. Pedro II. In the mean 
 while, the Emperor examined the *' City of Pittsburg" from the coal- 
 bunkers to her engine; and, as it fell to my duty to make many of 
 the explanations, it aff'orded an opportunity for observing the man 
 and forgetting the unbending features of the Emperor. He was 
 not content with beholding the mere upper-works of the machinery, 
 but descended into the hot and oily quarters of the lower part 
 of the ship, where the most intricate portion of the engine was 
 situated: a half-hour was afterward devoted to studying the 
 engraved plan of the machiner}-, which was further explained by 
 the chief engineer of the steamer, and by Mr. Grundy, an English 
 engineer, who has long been connected with the Brazilian navy. 
 
 When the investigation of the engine was concluded, the Emperor 
 wished to visit the forward-deck. Now, Americans are the vainest 
 people in the world, and we were all afraid that on this part of 
 the vessel Dom Pedro would not only be shocked with the ap- 
 pearance of some very rough specimens of humanity on their way 
 to the gold-regions of the Pacific, but that the said specimens would 
 not give His Majesty the reception which was due to his station as 
 
236 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the Executive head of the most powerful South American Govern- 
 ment. The Emperor's attention, however, could not be diverted to 
 a different point; and the captain, fearing and trembling, was led 
 to the forward-deck. There, upon the taffrail, sat representatives 
 of the New York "Mose," the Philadelphia ''Killer," and the Balti- 
 more "Plug-ugly." The cajitain's heart sank within him: he was 
 proud of his shij:), proud of his illustrious guest, but he had very 
 little to be proud of in some of his passengers, — especially the 
 unkempt and unterrified, who wei*e even more picturesque after 
 their voyage than upon election-day. The Emperor now ap- 
 proached the sovereigns, — ay, near enough to have them "betwixt 
 the wind and his nobility." Then occurred a scene, rich beyond 
 description, which could never have taken place with others than 
 Americans for actors. One of the unshaven, whose tobacco had, 
 up to this time, occuiiicd the greater portion of his mouth and 
 thoughts, suddenly tumbled from the taffrail, discharged his quid 
 into the ocean, and, hat in hand, yelled forth, in a well-meaning 
 but terrific voice, "Boys, three cheers for the Emperor of the 
 Brazils!" In a twinkle of an eye every Californian was uj)on his 
 feet; and never, in their oft -fought battles for the "glorious Demo- 
 cracy," did they send forth such round and hearty huzzas as they 
 did that day to D. Pedro II. The suddenness, the earnestness, the 
 good intention, and the enthusiasm of the whole procedure were 
 most mirth-provoking. The captain's fears subsided : his pons asi- 
 norum was ci'ossed, and he took breath and laughed freely. The 
 Emperor returned the impi'omptu salute with great respect, and, 
 for the occasion, with becoming gravity. 
 
 The Empress and her suite were not less pleased with the com- 
 modious saloons and richly-decorated cabins of the steamer than 
 her Imperial spouse had been with all its mechanical appoint- 
 ments. 
 
 The "City of Pittsburg" was at the command of the Emperor; 
 but on we steamed, notwithstanding a poi-tion of the court became 
 exceedingly sea-sick. His Majesty was too well pleased with his 
 new floating-dominion to resign it so soon; and thus we passed ten 
 miles bej'ond the Sugar-Loaf before the order was given to return, 
 The panoi'ama of coast-mountains never appeared to me more 
 magnificent than on that bright September day. 
 
How THE "Sovereigns" receive an Emperor. 237 
 
 The captain bad prepared a sumptuous collation, but tbero was 
 an obstacle which seemed more difficult to surmount than tho 
 forward-deck. The Imperial pair were not even in the habit of 
 dining with their suite, and, except on rare state-occasions, eminent 
 Ministcrs-Plenij)otentiary had never been invited to partake of a 
 repast in the same room with their Majesties. There was no pre- 
 cedent of a collation having been given on the deck of an American 
 vessel, and, above all, on board of a mere commercial ship. No 
 one liked the idea of consulting the Emperor about an affair ap- 
 parently so trifling as to the manner in which he desired to eat, 
 and therefore Captain Foster, who is as modest as he is hospitable, 
 took the whole matter into his own hands and made a precedent. 
 The "City of Pittsburg" was constructively a part of the United 
 States, and the captain was determined to do the honors of his 
 country as he would have done them on the banks of the Hudson. 
 Their Majesties Avere accommodated Avith an entire table to them- 
 selves, which, like six others in the ship, was separated from its 
 fellows by the space of two feet. The American party occupied 
 the adjoining table; the ministers and noblemen were seated at 
 another in a different part of the saloon, while the chamberlains 
 stood near the Emperor. Perhaps D. Pedro had no objection to 
 the proximity of the Americans, considering that they were all 
 " sovereigns." Captain Foster, who spoke French, proposed, with 
 a dignity becoming the occasion, the health of their Majesties; 
 and all passed off as easily and as happily as if there had been 
 a thousand and one ceremonies and precedents to have been 
 suppoi'ted and followed. 
 
 We entex'ed the harbor amid the booming of cannon, and at 
 sunset the Imperial party again embarked in the state-barges, 
 having spent what they afterward declared to have been one 
 of the most agreeable days of their lives. Again and again have 
 I heard their Majesties express their remembrance of that excur- 
 sion; and none of Captain Foster's personal friends felt a deeper 
 sympathy for him than did D. Pedro II. and Donna Theresa when 
 they learned, through the public journals, the sad fate of the "City 
 of Pittsburg" in the harbor of Valparaiso. 
 
 In 1854, I returned for a few montlis to the United States. 
 Having often had occasion while in Brazil to remark the isrno- 
 
238 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ranee whieh prevailed in regard to mj" own country, and the reci- 
 procal ignorance of the people of the United States in regard to 
 Brazil, I desired to do all that was in the power of a single indi- 
 vidual to remove erroneous impressions and to bring about a 
 better understanding between the two countries. There were 
 h'gher objects in view than the mere diffusion of knowledge and 
 the promotion of commerce; and, now that two years have elapsed 
 since this little effort was undertaken, I have the satisfaction of 
 knowing that new avenues of reciprocity have been opened, that 
 school-books have been prepared for Brazil in the American style, 
 and that thousands of dollars' worth of some of the articles dis- 
 played have been ordered since 1855. 
 
 I shall here introduce, even at the hazard of some repetition, the 
 greater part of a letter addressed to the "New York Journal of Com- 
 merce" and the "Philadelphia Ledger," which gives an account of 
 the effort to which I have referred. It is on my part due to others to 
 premise that many did not fully understand the proposed enter- 
 prise, and, after hearing of its success, regretted that they had not 
 had an opportunity of being represented in the "Exposition" at 
 the capital of Brazil. 
 
 "Rio de Janeiro, May 23, 1855. 
 
 " Messrs. Editors : — [After a few preliminary remarks, I wrote 
 as follows:] The motives which prompted me to undertake this 
 affair were simply the good of the United States and Brazil. When 
 laboring for several years as a missionary-chaplain at Eio de 
 Janeiro, I found great ignorance in regard to our country, its pro- 
 gress, and its producing-resoui'ces. I also discovered a reciprocal 
 ignorance in the United States concerning Brazil. In the latter 
 country we were known as a bold, hardy race, which consumed 
 two-thirds of the Brazilian coffee-crop, for which we sent, in return, 
 flour and a few articles of no great note. In the United States, 
 Brazil was often classed among the Spanish countries of America: 
 few people were aware that the Portuguese language was spoken, 
 and that here was the only monarchy in America, and the only 
 other constitutional Government on the Western continent which 
 has marched forward in tranquillity and material prosperity. I here 
 found English, German, and French goods and publications, with 
 Bome few exceptions, the mode, — and this, too, when many of the 
 
Exposition of American Manufactures at Rio. 239 
 
 same articles were to be bought cheaper in the United States; and 
 I also ascertained that our ships often came in ballast for coffee, 
 paj'ing for it cash at most exorbitant rates of exchange, when 
 European vessels brought cargoes at a profit in payment for the 
 chief staples of Brazil. 
 
 "In Brazil I found a very great want of school-books. In Chili 
 and New Grenada I saw Spanish books published by Messrs. Ap- 
 pleton, and I desired to see the same for the youth of Brazil, where 
 very great attention is awakening to the subject of education. I 
 observed here scientific societies which rank, in dignity and devo- 
 tion to belles-lettres, with the Xew York Historical Societj^, and like 
 associations of our own land. 
 
 "It was my ardent wish, first, to see this seven millions of 
 tolerant people possessing sound morality and true I'eligion. It 
 was my next desire to see men of science and learning in Brazil 
 linked with the kindred spirits of our vigorous land; to behold 
 good school-books in the hands of Brazilian children; and to see 
 our manufactures taking their stand in this country, which is so 
 great a consumer. 
 
 "In 1854, on account of the ill health of a member of m}^ family, 
 I was compelled to leave suddenly my field of labor for the United 
 States. There, after several months, it became evident that I 
 should have to abandon the land of my adoption. It was, how- 
 ever, necessar}'- for me to return to Brazil, in order to settle up my 
 affairs. It was then that, through the public journals, I off'ered 
 my services to convey to Rio de Janeiro, free of charge to the 
 donors, any articles that might be sent to my address. These 
 objects I solicited for the Emperor, for scientific and literary asso- 
 ciations, and for exposition to the public. I was a clergyman, and 
 I thought that no one could accuse me of speculation. For two 
 months was I, more or less, engaged at my own expense in making 
 solicitations in person, as well as by the press and by letters. I 
 regret to say that many persons who should have been interested 
 in such an enterprise did not choose to respond to the solicitations 
 of an unknown name, and thus the Exposition was not so rich 
 in some departments as it otherwise would have been, although 
 I with pleasure record that there were some influential men who 
 lent the weight of their names to the project. 
 
240 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 "At length a number of artists, publishers, merchants, and manu- 
 facturers were induced to send specimens of books, engi*avings, 
 sculpture, and manufactures j but these were few in comparison to 
 those who might have contributed to their own future benefit. 
 
 " Messrs. Corner & Sons, of Baltimore, generously placed their 
 bark at my disposal for a free passage. In the month of March, 
 the good bark ' Huntingdon' left Baltimore with my packages on 
 board. Eobert C. Wright, Esq., of that city, and his first clerk, 
 Mr. W. E. Jackson, did every thing in their power to facilitate the 
 enterprise, and to them more than to others I am indebted for 
 the successful consummation of my desired object. In Ajiril we 
 arrived at Eio de Janeiro, and for three weeks I had such vexation 
 and delay that I almost despaired of a prosperous termination. 
 Through the kindness of the Baron of Penedo, then Brazilian 
 Minister at Washington, and by a letter from Hon. William 
 Trousdale, the American Minister, my boxes and packages were 
 admitted free of duty. The custom-house regulations of this 
 country are exceedingly strict, and I had to give an account of 
 every thing that I had brought for the statistical purpose of the 
 Minister of Finance. As I had no list of the articles nor of their 
 values, as many of the boxes contained one hundred diff'erent 
 tightly-made packages, and as there were many objects of a fragile 
 nature, and as every thing had to be oj^ened by officers who might 
 not be the most careful, I suffered mentally and physically both 
 before and after the examination. It was no easy matter to undo 
 so many parcels, and it was hard to restore again some fine speci- 
 mens after a clumsy underling had put a nail through them. 
 
 ''The chief collector of the custom-house believed, from the day 
 that I arrived until the day of the examination, that I was medi- 
 tating some plot against the finances of the country, and openly 
 told some of the merchants that I intended to sell these things. 
 [That gentleman afterward became a very warm and an attentive 
 friend.] But when I had patiently assisted in opening for examina- 
 tion box after box, and we came to one containing the splendid 
 photographs of Fredericks & Guruey, the chief examiner said to 
 one of the others, 'Go call the second collector.' He came, and, 
 after expressing his astonishment at such perfection in photography, 
 he sent for the collector-in-chief. This latter gentleman left his 
 
Obstacles Overcome. 
 
 241 
 
 platform in the large public hall of the custom-house, and found his 
 way to the store-room. His admiration knew no bounds when he 
 saw the large life-sized photograph of Webster, — the last likeness 
 of the great statesman. From this time onwax'd, his suspicions in 
 regard to my project ceased. He looked with great pleasui*e into 
 Colton's fine maps, and delighted in a critical examination of the 
 exquisite bank-note engraving of Danforth & "Wright and that of 
 Toppan & Car])enter, who had contributed some most beautiful 
 specimens of tliis miugliDg of the beautiful with the useful in art. 
 The examination and noting down the contents of the boxes went 
 on very swiftly from the time of this visit of the chief collector. 
 
 
 ^A^A^J^ n,mv}tLj 
 
 
 THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 
 
 " One week after the custom-house was cleared, I received an order 
 from the Minister of the Empire, granting me a large hall in the 
 National Museum, for the purposes of an Exposition. The same 
 day I went to the palace, and communicated to the Emj)eror that 
 I should be ready to receive him at eleven a.m. next day, (May 16,) 
 
 16 
 
242 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 at the Museum. His Majesty received me, it seemed to me, with 
 more amiability than his usual serious countenance indicated, and 
 I soon discovered, from a remark which he made, that I was in- 
 debted to His Excellency Senhor Carvalho de Moreiro for a full 
 explanation to His Majesty of my project, which was on my part 
 far more philanthropic than commercial. 
 
 "That night sleep did not visit me, so busily was I engaged in 
 ■'.he arrangement of the whole affair. The next day, at five minutes 
 before eleven, (His Majesty is noted for his punctuality,) I heard 
 the well-known bugle-blast of the Imperial horse-guards; and, before 
 my assistants had time to withdraw, the coaches containing Dom 
 Pedro II. and the chamberlains drew up at the Museum. 
 
 "By the aid of some kind friends, I had so disposed the six. hun- 
 dred different objects that the exhibition was not Avanting in an 
 imposing appearance. The American and Brazilian flags fell in 
 graceful folds over the portrait of Washington and the likenesses 
 of the Emperor and his father. The maps of Colton and others, 
 and engravings from New York, Philadelphia, and Boston, covered 
 the walls. Books and small manufactured articles occupied tables; 
 beautifully-designed wall-papers and sample-books of mousseline de 
 laines were suspended; and large agricultural implements were 
 arranged on platforms provided for the occasion. 
 
 "His Majesty commenced at one end, and with great earnestness 
 and interest examined every thing in detail. He made many in- 
 quiries, and manifested a most intimate knowledge with the pro- 
 gress of our country. He was filled with admiration at the 
 specimens of books, steel engravings, chromo-lithography, (of 
 Philadelphia,) and agricultural implements. Every now and then 
 you might have hoard him calling to some of his noblemen or 
 chamberlains to come and admire with him this or that work of 
 the useful or beautiful arts. He was not, however, indiscriminate 
 in his praise, but was perfectly frank in his criticism. 
 
 "Being himself a thorough student of phj^sical science, and a 
 good engineer, he examined with minuteness the splendid edition 
 of the United States Coast Survey, from the bureau of the United 
 States Coast Surve}^, Washington; and he appreciated at their 
 Just value the various scientific works that occu2:)ied a conspi- 
 cuous table. 
 
Admiration for Mr. Longfellow. 24S 
 
 'Tor half an hour he pored over Youman's Atlas of Chemistry, 
 and praised its thorough excellence and simplicity. While exa- 
 mining a work on phj^siology, I heard him i-emarking upon the 
 superiority of the Craniology by the late Dr. Morton; and he in- 
 formed me that he possessed the writings of that eminent student 
 of the human frame. He was also well read in the immense tomes 
 of the pains-taking, erudite, and conscientious Schoolcraft, whose 
 works on the aborigines of North America were sent out by the 
 Chief of the Bureau of Indian Affairs at Washington. 
 
 "His Majesty was deeply interested in the various maps, geo- 
 graphies, and school-books sent out by Colton, Appletons, Wood- 
 ford & Brace, T. Cowperthwait, and Barnes. The finely-illustrated 
 publications of the various benevolent societies of our land were 
 sent out for the Imperial family, and attracted deserved attention. 
 The Emperor was much pleased with the only specimens of wood- 
 engraving, which were forwarded by Mr. Yan Ingen, of the firm of 
 Yan Incren & Snvdcr, whose skill has illustrated this work. 
 
 "The earnest examination which he gave the machinery, manu- 
 factures, and agricultural implements justified the reputation 
 which Dom Pedro II. enjoys in this respect. Howell's wall-papers, 
 after drawings by the students of the Philadelphia Academy of 
 Design, and the beautiful silk manufactures of Horstman, and 
 Evans, — which ought to be classed among works of art, — called 
 forth much praise. 
 
 "He next approached the table where were the books presented 
 by the Appletons and Parry & McMillan. Taking up the 'Eepub- 
 lican Court,' he said, 'I am astonished at such perfection in bind- 
 ing.' I replied, 'And none of those volumes were bound expressly 
 for 3'our Majesty." The binding of Appletons' books was suj^erb. 
 He opened the 'Homes of the American Authors,' and surprised 
 me by his knowledge of our literature. He made remarks on Ir- 
 ving, Cooper, and Prescott, — showing an intimate acquaintance 
 with each. His eye falling on the name of Longfellow, he asked 
 me, with great haste and eagerness, 'Avez-vouz les poemes de 
 Monsieur Longfellow ? It was the first time that I ever saw Dom 
 Pedro II. manifest an enthusiasm which, in its earnestness and 
 simplicity, resembled the warmth of childhood when about to 
 possess itself of some long-cherished object. I replied, ' I believe 
 
244 Brazil a'sd the Brazilians. 
 
 not, 3'our Majesty.' 'Oh/ said he, 'I am exceedingly sorry, foi 
 1 have sought in every bookstore of Eio de Janeiro for Longfellow, 
 and I cannot find him. I have a number of beautiful morceaux, 
 but I wish the whole work; I admire him so very much.' That 
 evening I found, among the books sent by Parry & McMillan, the 
 ' Poets and Poetry of America.' In this volume is a biographical 
 sketch of Longfellow, as well as some of the choicest selections 
 from his pen. This, with T. Buchanan Bead's 'Kew Pastoral,' 
 were afterward commented on and received with the most visible 
 pleasure by His Majesty. 
 
 "1 was absent from the part of the hall where Dom Pedro II. 
 waslookingattheengravingsof the American Bank-NoteCompany,) 
 and when I returned I found him engaged in a discussion with his 
 first chamberlain as to John Quincy Adams, — the chamberlain (as 
 the majority of even well-educated foreigners) supposing that John 
 Quincy Adams was the elder Adams. The Emperor insisted that 
 John Quincy Adams was not the early advocate of libei'ty and 
 the 'comrade,' as he termed him, of Washington, — but that he 
 was the son of John Adams, and, like his father, was a President 
 of the United States. And soon after he gave a very thorough 
 re-examination of the 'Eepublican Court,' and pointed out to the 
 chamberlain the distinguished mother of John Quincy Adams. 
 He was very anxious to see a portrait of Jeiferson. One of my 
 assistants found a very neatly-engraved porti'ait of the sage of 
 Monticello from the burin of Toppan & Carpenter. When he 
 received it, you should have heard him, without pedantr}^ or 
 atfectation, expatiate with great minuteness, correctness, and 
 judgment on the character of Jefferson as compared with that 
 of Washington. 
 
 "Approaching some very fine lithographs published by Williams 
 & Stephens, of New York, I introduced His Majesty to 'Young 
 America,' that handsome but independent-looking lad, and to 
 'Uncle Sam's Youngest Son, Citizen Know-Nothing.' I thought 
 that I had now a subject of which His Majesty really knew no- 
 thing; but I found that I was mistaken, as he recounted to some one 
 the pranks that this young fellow had been playing, and added that 
 he was a citizen of some power and knowledge, judging from the 
 recent (1855) elections in the United States. 
 
Success of the Exposition. 245 
 
 "Thus the whole day was occupied in the examination and ex- 
 planation of the American collection. 
 
 "A few days after the Exposition was closed, I had the many 
 things destined for the Imperial family taken to the large palaceie 
 of the Marquis d'Abrantes, situated in one of the most charming 
 environs of Rio, — viz.: the shore of the Neapolitan-shaped Baj^ of 
 Botafogo. His Majesty was spending some weeks here for the 
 benefit of sea-bathing. I passed the guards at the gate, and as I 
 ascended the steps the Emperor saw me, and, meeting me at the 
 door, thanked me heartily for what I had done. I desired him to 
 allow me to remain a few moments until the boxes arrived, as I 
 must give him some explanations as to the secret lock of the most 
 excellent trunk sent him by Peddle & Morrison, of Newark, N. J. 
 With his permission I went into the beautiful garden, where were 
 the richest and rarest of flowers in a land of perpetual bloom. 
 The air was truly loaded with sweet fragrance. There were foun- 
 tains and statuary, many brilliant-plumaged birds, and, indeed, 
 every thing in nature and in art to please and to gratify those alive 
 to the beautiful. When looking upon a scene so enchanting I 
 could only desire that this land, for which God has done so much 
 in a natural point of view, might possess the solid mental and 
 moral advantages which belong to our more rugged North through 
 the instrumentality of education and religion. 
 
 "The blacks soon arrived with the heavy boxes and the nicely- 
 finished plough, (sent by B. Myers, of Newark, N.J.,) all of which, 
 by the order of the chnmberlain, wei-e placed in the ante-room, 
 where His Majesty again examined and admired them. The first 
 thing that he inquired for was 'My Longfellow,' (in the 'Poets 
 and Poetr}^ of America;') the next, 'Youman's Atlas of Chemis- 
 try :' he then asked for the beautiful specimens of chromo-litho- 
 graphy, (by Sinclair, and Duval, of Philadelphia,) and finally in- 
 quired after the steam fire-engine which made its travels from 
 Cincinnati to Boston last spring. I furnished him with a plan 
 of it which had been given me by a clerk in the Baltimore Sun 
 office. He instantly took it, and began to explain its operations to 
 a French savant who was visiting the palace. For one hour he 
 was engaged in a review of the products of our country. He 
 called the Empress, who also expressed her gratification in the 
 
246 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 highest terms as I displayed the beautiful books sent for herself 
 and the princesses. Her Majesty was not only pleased with what 
 had drawn forth the praises of her Imperial spouse, but she, as 
 well as her maids of honor, displayed the woman in the delight 
 manifested at the fancy soaps and other articles of toilette sent 
 out by II. P. & W. C. Taylor, of Philadelphia, and Colgate & Co., 
 of New York. Many thanks were given to me for those who had 
 been so kind in remembering the Imperial family of Brazil, and 
 I left the palace, feeling that, so far as the head of the Brazilian 
 Government was concerned, all was most successful. 
 
 " With His Majesty's subjects the enterprise was not less fortu- 
 nate. On the 17th and 18th the Museum was visited by some 
 thousands, and astonishment and admiration were constantly upon 
 the lips of the Brazilians. Each evening I was completely worn 
 out by answering the many questions that were propounded from 
 every side. I have no doubt that a proper exhibition of American 
 arts and manufactures, arranged by business-men and those who 
 have means to carry it out, would redound a thousandfold to the 
 benefit of American commerce. For, during my walks among 
 those who Avere examining the various articles, I heard remarks 
 which convinced me that it only required to have our country's 
 productions known to cause a large importation. During and 
 since the Exposition, I have had many orders for books, en- 
 gravings, wall-papers, and Manchester prints; and this morning 
 I had an ajiplication for a sugar-crushing machine, and a large 
 lithographic printing -press. My reply in all cases has been, 'I am 
 not a commercial man; I am not here for that purpose; I have 
 no pecuniary interest whatever in this matter: but there are 
 houses here which have correspondents in America.' 
 
 "Upon the evening of the 16th, the Statistical Society of Brazil 
 held its meeting in the same hall where were the products of the 
 United States. The Viscount Itaborahy presided, and invited mo 
 to address the Society. I was very glad to have the opportunity 
 of explaining m}' plans to such a body of gentlemen, and found 
 them most sympathetic: they freely expressed their desire to see 
 the United States and Brazil more closely united. These remarks 
 were reported for the press, and my motives were thus more 
 widely made known to the people. 
 
A Pleasing Incident. 247 
 
 " The contributions from Washington, from the Bureau of the 
 Coast Survey, and from the Patent-Office, and the splendid work 
 on the North American Indians, to which Schoolcraft has devoted 
 his life, were looked upon by the Historical and other Societies as 
 a very great acquisition to their libraries. In this connection I 
 must not ojnit to mention some important medical works sent out 
 by Lippin'.ott, Grambo & Co., which were presented to the Imperial 
 Academy of Medicine. From these associations I received letters 
 of thanks, showing that the contributions of the various donors 
 are justly appreciated. The Brazilian Historical and Geographical 
 Society published in the daily press the list of historical and other 
 works and library-catalogues that had been thus added to their 
 own increasing literary stores. 
 
 "I have already occupied too much of your space, and I must 
 still beg leave to add a few remarks. 
 
 "I do not claim the 'Exposition' to have been a perfect collection 
 of what the United States can produce. It was far from it ; but, 
 from the interest it has created in this city of three hundred 
 thousand inhabitants, from the independent approbatory remarks 
 of the daily press, and from the desires which come from all quai'- 
 ters that the exhibition should continue, I think that a fiivorable 
 impression has been made, and I also believe that, from this little 
 affair, we may legitimately argue that there is a most favorable 
 opening here for the various manufiictures, &c. of our country. It 
 would require patience and capital, and perhai)s the hazarding of 
 something at first; but I believe that the end would more than 
 recompense the adventurers. One or two Americans, a few years 
 ago, commenced the importation of American agricultural imple- 
 ments, &c., and now there is quite a commerce in this line. If im- 
 portation should be extended, and this people could know what we 
 produce, our commerce would be most rapidly increased. Specu- 
 lators are not wanted, but moral, sound, enterprising business-men, 
 who will furnish the best articles at the lowest price. 
 
 "In conclusion, without wishing to excite expectations which 
 will not be realized, or without desiring to overestimate any thing 
 which has been done in this Exposition, I can only say that, how- 
 ever far short I may have come in my efforts, ray intentions have 
 been good, and, when I shall leave Brazil to return to the work of 
 
248 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 my Master in my own land, I shall have at least the consolation of 
 having endeavored to brifig about a closer relation between the 
 strongest Government of South America and the great Eepublic 
 of the North. 
 
 "I remain, gentlemen, very respectfully, 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 " J. C. Fletcher." 
 
 A pleasing incident connected Avith this affair grew out of the 
 late arrival at Eio of one of the presents destined for the Emperor. 
 After the "Exposition," I departed from the city and became en- 
 gaged in my legitimate labors in another part of the Empire. In 
 the month of July I returned from the Southern provinces, and 
 found that the Messrs. Merriam, of Springfield, Massachusetts, had 
 sent out a superb edition of Webster's unabridged quarto Dictionary. 
 I had also a few more books which were to be j)laced in the Em- 
 peror's own library. An account of the presentation of these 
 volumes was given in a private letter to Mr. J. P. Blanchard, of 
 Boston, fi'om which I extract the following : — 
 
 "The gift of Messrs. Merriam arrived during my absence in the 
 Southern provinces; but so soon as I returned I procured it from the 
 custom-house, and in due time conveyed it to the palace. Of course 
 it was too late for the Exj^osition in the National Museum ; but, 
 as your State had been very poorly represented in May, I was glad 
 to have this specimen of Massachusetts i^ublication, and this monu- 
 ment of the patient and faithful labors of a man who has done 
 so much to define and classify our mother-tongue. 
 
 "It was within two days of my departure for Bahia and Per- 
 nambuco that I stole a few hours to go out to the Imperial Quinta 
 of Boa Vista, — the Palace of S. Christovao. It is usual to go thither 
 in a coach drawn by at least two horses; but, finding a nice new 
 tilbury and a bright mulatto driver, I entered his vehicle, and, with 
 'Webster's Dictionary,' Hawthorne's 'Mosses from an Old Manse,' 
 and Longfellow's 'IIyj)erion,' I was soon whirling, through the 
 garden-lined streets of Engenho Velho, to the palace. The Palace 
 of S. Christovao is situated in one of the most picturesque environs 
 of Eio de Janeiro. It stands in bold relief against the lofty green 
 mountains of Tijuca, and is surrounded by the beautifully-foliaged 
 
"Webster, Hawthorne, and Longfellow. 249 
 
 trees jf the tropics. It has every adjunct that can make it a 
 delightful residence. As we rolled through the long avenue of 
 mango-trees, I saw the coach of one of the Ministers bowling along 
 with the servants in livery. My establishment looked small in 
 comparison with this brilliant equipage; but I felt that the three 
 books which I bore with me would delight His Majesty more than 
 all the carriages of the court. 
 
 ''I descended after the Minister had entered, and was conducted 
 to an ante-room by a chamberlain, to whom I made known the 
 purport of my visit and the nature of my volumes. Not wishing 
 to trust m}" precious load to any servant, I carried the three tomes 
 (no light burden) before me. After passing many corridors, I came 
 to a large, wide gallery, which overlooked a courtyard where 
 bright fountains were playing and the choicest and most fragrant 
 flowers were blooming. 
 
 "I had supposed that it was a day for private audience; but the 
 long gallery was filled with gentlemen in waiting, — noblemen, 
 Judges of the Supreme Court, Ministei's, Charges, and officers en 
 grande tenue, and some of them covered with decorations. I then 
 learned from Senhor Leal, and from the Neapolitan Charge d' Afi^aires, 
 that the 13th of July was the anniversary of the Imperial Princess 
 Leopoldina, and these gentlemen had come to felicitate their Ma- 
 jesties on the return of this anniversary. I took my stand at the 
 extreme end of the waiting train, thinking that I had better have 
 chosen a day when His Majesty was less occupied. Presently I)om 
 Pedro II. appeared, his fine manly form towering above everj 
 other. He was dressed in black; and, with the exception of a 
 star which sparkled upon his left breast, his costume was simple, 
 and its good taste was most apparent when contrasted with the 
 brilliant uniforms of the court. 
 
 ''I conjectured that His Majesty would first receive the con- 
 gratulations of the glittering throng that stood between him and 
 the plainly-dressed clergyman. Judge, then, of my surprise when, 
 merely bowing, he passed by the many titled gentlemen and repre- 
 sentatives of foreign courts, and came directly to the 'Webster,' 
 * Hawthorne,' and 'Longfellow.' "With a pleasant smile, he addressed 
 me, and led me to an open arch that overlooked the flowers and the 
 limpid fountain. There he examined the books and bestowed high 
 
250 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 eulogium upon the Dictionary, — not only for the beautiful style in 
 which it had been prej)ared by the publishers, but for the almost 
 encyclopedic character of the work. He sj^oke of Mr. Ilawthorne 
 as an author of whom he had heard, and was glad to possess the 
 'Mosses from an Old Manse.' I called his attention particularly 
 to the 'Celestial Eailroad,' which caused an allusion to Bunyan's 
 'guide and road-book to the Celestial City.' Since the month 
 of May he had jjrocured all the poetical works of JVIi*. LongfelloW; 
 but had not yet added to his library any of his (]\Ii'. Longfellow's) 
 prose compositions. He therefore considered 'Hyperion' a most 
 interesting acquisition. 
 
 "His Majesty conversed for a long time on the objects for which 
 I came to Brazil, and expressed his gratitude for the souvenirs 
 which he had received from citizens of the United States. I 
 stated to him that I would visit the Northern provinces and then 
 return to my native land. He expressed the customar}^ wishes of 
 a bon voyage, &c., but, wifch great earnestness, said to me, in con- 
 clusion, 'Mr. Fletcher, when you return to your countrj-, have the 
 kindness to say to Mr. Longfellow how much pleasure he has given 
 me, and be pleased to tell him combien je Vestime, coinbien je I'aime! 
 — how much 1 esteem him, how much I love him.' " 
 
 Thus ended, so far as my own personal effort is concerned, that 
 which I undertook to do. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — In many ways we have since learned of the good effect of this 
 efiFort at Rio de Janeiro in 1855. 
 
 The junior author has visited Brazil four times since the last-named year, and 
 had many occasions for long and intimate conversations with D. Pedro II., and 
 can testify to that monarch's continued interest in works that treat of morals, 
 literature, and art. AVith Mr. Longfellow and the Quaker poet Whittier he has 
 really lived on terms of intimacy, rendering himself familiar with their poetic 
 effusions, and on more than one occasion making felicitous translations of their 
 poems, of which he sent autograph copies to tliose authors. By his deep interest 
 in science, and by his correspondence with Professor Agassiz, that eminent 
 savant came to Brazil, and is now engaged in extensive explorations of the rich 
 treasures of nature in this empire. That the most pleasant relations, literary as 
 well as political, will continue to exist between North America is evident, when 
 the emperor has been represented by such affable gentlemen as the Baron of Penedo, 
 M. M. Lisboa, late Brazilian Minister to the United States, and Sr. Azambuja, 
 the present representative of H. I. M. at Washington. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 BRAZILIAN LITERATURE — THE JOURNALS OF RIO DE JANEIRO ADVERTISEMENTS — 
 
 THE FREEDOM OF THE PRESS EFFORT TO PUT DOWN BIBLE-DISTRIBUTION ITS 
 
 FAILURE NATIONAL LIBRARY MUSEUM IMPERIAL ACADEMIES OF FIN-E ARTS 
 
 SOCIETIES BRAZILIAN HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL INSTITUTE — ADMINISTRA- 
 TION OF BRAZILIAN LAW CURIOUS TRIAL. 
 
 The Brazilians, having a ruler with such literary and scientific 
 tastes, will assuredly make more progress in this direction than 
 formerly. 
 
 On account of the restrictive policy of Portugal, no printing- 
 press was introduced into this country until 1808. The general 
 taste for reading is mostly confined to the newspapers and the 
 translations of French novels. Authors are by no means numerous 
 in the Empire; but there have been within the last few years 
 a number of very creditable provincial histories, scientific disquisi- 
 tions, and one or two attempts at the general history of Brazil. 
 The bookstores abound with French works on science, history, 
 and (too often) infidel i^hilosophy. 
 
 There is, howevei', a Government bookmaking which is prolific 
 
 in the most interesting details. I refer to the annual Helatorios or 
 
 Eeports of the Ministers of the Empire, Finance, Justice, Foreign 
 
 Affairs, War, and the Navy. These are well written and well 
 
 printed, and contain the most valuable matter for the statesman, 
 
 the statistician, or the general reader. The Relatorio of the 
 
 Minister of Justice must demand an amount of labor unknown to 
 
 officials in the United States or in England; for every case that goes 
 
 before a jury in each of the twenty provinces must come under his 
 
 revision and must be placed in its proper table. The ci'ime, age, 
 
 sex, and nationality of the criminal are given, together with the 
 
 punishment. In addition to this, matters of prison-discipline and 
 
 the varied interests of ecclesiastical affairs are not forgotten. 
 
 251 
 
252 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The periodical literature of Eio has, within a few years, been 
 improved in character by the establishment of a Medical Review 
 and also of a Brazilian and Foreign Quarterly. The last-mentioned 
 periodical has been conducted with great spirit and literary enter- 
 prise, and promises to be of utility to the country; yet even in 
 this there is a too frequent resort to translations. If Brazilians 
 would only take the time to write, and make the effort to think 
 for themselves, foreigners would soon find their productions to be 
 interesting and valuable, and would prize them accordingly^. 
 
 The press being free, I doubt whether any journals in the United 
 States, England, or the Continent, contain so many communica- 
 tions from subscribers as those of Rio de Janeiro. As all of these 
 communicagoes must be accompanied with the cash, journalism in 
 Brazil is a lucrative "institution." Some of the editorials of the 
 Jornal do Cormnercio, the Correio, and the Diario will compare favor- 
 ably with those of New York or London. The Correio has an able 
 corps-editorial, and is an exceedingly readable paper. In the 
 Appendix will be found a leader from the Jornal do Commercio 
 which was elicited by a most provoking and uncalled-for note on 
 the African slave-trade, which was sent by the British Minister at 
 Rio de Janeiro to the Brazilian Secretary of State. 
 
 The appearance of the newspapers of Rio is like that of the 
 Parisian journals, only the Brazilian dailies are larger, in clearer 
 type, and upon superior paper. The bottom of each sheet contains 
 the light reading, in what is called the folhetim ; and each Sunday 
 the Correio Mercantil has several columns of pacotilha, (gossip.) 
 The Jornal do Commercio, the Mercantil, the Diario do Rio de Janeiro, 
 and the Diario Official are better printed than French dailies. 
 
 The newspaper-press in Rio is quite j^rolific. It issues four 
 dailies, several tri-weeklies, and a vaiying number of from six to 
 ten. weeklies and irregular sheets. During the session of the 
 National Assembly, verbatim reports of the proceedings and de- 
 bates of that body are published at length — like those of the 
 English Parliament and the American Congress — -on the morning 
 after their occurrence. 
 
 The Jornal do Commercio, already referred to, has the largest circulation, and is 
 under the direction of Sr. Castro, who translated into Portuguese Southey's 
 " History of Brazil," and Mr. Add^. The Correio Mercantil is the property of 
 
The Journals of Rio de Janeiro. 253 
 
 Muniz Barreto & Co., and is under the editor-in-chief Sr. Octaviano, one of the 
 finest writers in Brazil. Mr. Barreto deserves well of his country for the efforts 
 he has made to give a high tone to its press. The Diario do Rio de Janeiro is 
 edited by Saldanha Marinha, (an eminent politician in the Liberal party,) aided 
 by an efficient staff. The Diario Official was created for government purposes in 
 18G2. Its present editor is Sr. Tito Franco de Almeida, who formerly edited with 
 so much ability the Jornal do Para. All of the leading editors of the last three 
 journals are members of the Chamber of Deputies. The Anglo-Brazilian Times 
 is a semi-monthly English sheet, edited by Mr. Scully, with more sprightliness 
 than the Brazilian papers, and is a 'valuable addition to the journals of Rio. 
 There is an interesting agricultural journal published under the auspices of the 
 Imperial Agricultural Society, which merits a wide circulation. The first paper 
 of this kind, Agricultor Brazileiro, was started by Mr. N. Sands, in 1854. Only 
 one volume was publislied. 
 
 The most enterprising typographia is that of the Brothers 
 Liiemmert. in the Eua dos Invalidos. The press of the Typo- 
 graphia "Universal" turns out fine specimens of work. The 
 matter of the advertising-columns of the various newspapers ia 
 renewed ahnost dail}^, and is perused by great numbers of general 
 readers for the sake of its piquancy and its variety. Several 
 peculiar customs may be noticed, growing out of the Church and 
 Brotherliood advertisements mentioned in a previous chapter, and 
 the patronage of the numerous lotteries authorized by Govern- 
 ment. Persons frequently form companies for the purchase of 
 tickets, and those at a distance order their correspondents to pur- 
 chase for them. In order to avoid any subsequent transfer or 
 dispute, the purchaser announces, through the newspaper, the 
 number of the ticket bought and for whose account, — as, for 
 example : — "M. F. S. purchased, by order of J. T. Pinto, two half- 
 tickets, Nos. 1513 and 4817, of the lottery in behalf of the theatre 
 of Itaborahy." " The treasurer of the company entitled ' The 
 Friends of Good Luck' has purchased, on the company's account, 
 halftickets Nos. 3885 and 5430, of Uie lottery of the cathedral 
 of Goyaz." Following this custom, individuals who wish to publish 
 some pert thing usually announce it as the name of a company 
 for the purchase of lottery-tickets, although that name extends 
 sometimes through a dozen lines of rhyme. 
 
 The Brazilians have a most effectual way of collecting debts, which 
 ought to be made known for the benefit of creditors in other portions 
 of the world. The recipe is found in the following advertisement : — 
 
254 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ^'Senhor Jose Domingos da Costa is requested to pay, at No. 85 
 Eua de S. Jose, the sum of six hundred milreis ; and in case he shall 
 not do so in three days, his conduct will be exposed in this journal, 
 together with the manner in which this debt was contracted." 
 Another will show that the clergy are not always spared : — 
 " j\Ir. Editor : — Since the vicar of a certain parish, on the 8th 
 instant, having said mass with all his accustomed affectation, 
 turned round to the people and said, with an air of mockery, 
 'As we have no festival to-day, let us say over the Litany,' &c., 
 I would respond, that the reverend vicar knows well the reason 
 why there was no festival. Let him be assured, however, that 
 when intrigue shall disappear the festival will take place; but, if 
 he is in a hurry, let him undertake it at his own ex2:)ense, since 
 whosoever says the paternoster gets the benefit.* 
 
 "(Signed) An Enemy to Hypocrites." 
 
 A school-teacher, after announcing his terms for tuition, thus 
 continues and concludes, — the italics being his own : — 
 
 "The first-class day -scholars are instructed in the different 
 branches of science and literature, including the English, French, 
 Portuguese, and Latin languages. Second-class jDupils receive a 
 plain education, consisting of reading, writing, grammar, arith- 
 metic, and Christian doctrine. 
 
 " The director, not being in the habit of making splendid advertise- 
 ments or puffs in the daily papers, or of throwing dust in the eyes 
 of the public, can only promise that, being the father of a large 
 famil}^ and knowing what care and attention children require as 
 to their morals and education, he will do his duty toward them 
 accordingly." 
 
 The last specimen which I give illustrates the early marriages 
 which frequently take place in Brazil; but I defy any other 
 country to furnish the like of the following advertisement, which 
 appeared in the Jornal do Gommercio of Eio de Janeiro in 1852. It 
 is so unique that I furnish the original as well as the translation : — 
 
 "Precisa-se de uma senhora branca de afiangada conducta, e com 
 inteUigencia bastante para fazer companhia a uma menina casada 
 
 * " Quern rese o Pater noster come o pao." 
 
Freedom of the Press. 255 
 
 de menor idade, aqual precisa de algumas instrucgoes proprias de 
 seu estado. Quern cstiver nestas circumstancias annuncie por esta 
 folha para ser procurada." 
 
 "Wanted. — A white lady of faithful character and with sufficient 
 intelligence to be the companion [or, literally, " to make the com- 
 pany"] of a young bride who is a minor, and who is in need of 
 some instructions appropriate to her state. Whoever possesses 
 these qualifications may make known her address in the columns 
 of this journal." 
 
 Various allusions to the entire freedom of the press have already 
 been made; and it maj^ be mentioned, in this connection, that there 
 was an interesting example of its use for advertisements for pro- 
 moting the Bible in Brazil, and also its employment to put down 
 an effort for the diffusion of the Sacred Scriptures. My co-author, 
 (Dr. Kidder,) in the eai-ly part of his religious labors in Brazil, com- 
 menced by circulating the Bible. I prefer to give his experience 
 in his own words. After speaking of the general influence of the 
 mother-country iipon Brazil, he sa^'S, — 
 
 "Portugal has never published the Bible or countenanced its 
 circulation save in connection with notes and comments that had 
 been appi'oved by inquisitorial censorship. The Bible was not 
 enumerated among the books that might be admitted to her colo- 
 nies when under the absolute dominion. Yet the Brazilians, on 
 their political disenthralment, adopted a liberal and tolerant Con- 
 stitution. Although it made the Eoman Catholic apostolic religion 
 that of the State, yet it allowed all other forms of religion to be 
 held and practised, save in buildings ' having the exterior form of 
 a temple.' It also forbade persecution on the ground of religious 
 opinions. By degrees, enlightened views of the great subjects of 
 tolei-ation and religious liberty became widely disseminated among 
 the people, and hence many were prepared to hail any movement 
 which promised to give them what had so long been sys- 
 tematically withheld, — the Scriptures of truth for their own 
 perusal. Copies exposed for sale and advertised in the news- 
 papers found many purchasers, not only from the city, but also 
 from the distant provinces. 
 
 "At the mission-house many copies were distributed gratui- 
 tously; and on several occasions there was what might be called 
 
256 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 a rush of applicants for the sacred volume. One of these occurred 
 soon after n\y arrival. It was known that a supply of books had 
 been received, and our house was literally thronged with persons 
 of all ages and conditions of life, — from the gray-headed man to 
 the prattling child, — from the gentleman in high life to the poor 
 slave. Most of the children and servants came as messengers, 
 bringing notes from their parents or masters. These notes were 
 invariably couched in respectful, and often in beseeching, lan- 
 guage. Several were from poor widows who had no monc}^ to buy 
 books for their children, but who desired Testaments for them to 
 read at school. Another was from one of the Ministers of the 
 Imperial Government, asking for a suppl}" for an entire school out 
 of the city. 
 
 "Among the gentlemen who called in j^erson were several prin- 
 cipals of collegios, and many students of different grades. Ver- 
 sions in French, and also in English, as well as Portuguese, were 
 sometimes desired by amateur linguists. We dealt out the pre- 
 cious volumes according to our best judgment, with joy and with 
 trembling. This being the first general movement of the kind, we 
 were at times inclined to fear that some plan had been concerted 
 for getting the books destroj'ed, or for involving us in some species 
 of difficulty. These ajiprehensions were contradicted, however, by 
 all the circumstances within our observation ; and all who came 
 made their errand on the ground of its intrinsic importance, and 
 listened with deep attention to whatever we had time or ability to 
 address to them concerning Christ and the Bible. 
 
 ''It was not to be presumed, however, that so great an amount 
 of scriptural truth could at once be scattered among the people 
 without exciting great jealousy and commotion among certain of 
 the padres. Nevertheless, others of this class w^ere among the 
 applicants themselves. One aged priest, who called in person, and 
 received by special request copies in Portuguese, French, and 
 English, on retiring, said, 'The like was never before done in this 
 country.' Another sent a note in French, asking for L'Ancien et 
 le Nouveau Testament. In three days two hundred copies were dis- 
 tributed, and our stock was exhausted; but applicants continued to 
 come, till it was estimated that four times that number had been 
 sailed for. All we could respond to these persons was to inform 
 
Failure of Opposition to the Bible. 257 
 
 them where Bibles were kept on sale, and that we anticipated a 
 fresh supply at some future day. 
 
 " We were not disappointed in the opposition which was liliely 
 to be called forth by this manifestation of the popular desire for 
 the Scriptures. A series of low and vile attacks were made upon 
 us in a certain newspaper, corresponding in style with the well- 
 known spirit and character of their authors. Indeed, in immediate 
 connection with this interesting movement a periodical was started, 
 under the title of CathoUco, with the avowed object of combating 
 us and our evangelical operations. It was an insignificant weekly, 
 of anonymous editorship. After extravagant promises, and re- 
 peated efforts to secure permanent subscribers, it made out to 
 struggle against public contempt for the space of an entire month. 
 Yielding to the stress of circumstances, it then came to a pause. 
 An effort was made to revive it some time after, with the more 
 imposing title of CathoUco Fluminense. Thus its proprietors 
 appealed as strongly as possible to the sympathy and patriotism 
 of the people, by the use of a term of which the citizens of Eio de 
 Janeiro are particularly proud. Under this heading it barely suc- 
 ceeded in surviving four additional numbers, in onl}^ one of which 
 was the least mention made of the parties whose efforts to spread 
 the pure word of God had given it origin. 
 
 ''This species of opposition almost always had the effect to 
 awaken greater inquiry after the Bible; and many were the indi- 
 viduals who, on coming to procure the Scriptures, said their atten- 
 tion was first called to the subject by the unreasonable and fanatical 
 attempts of certain priests to hinder their circulation. They 
 contemned the idea, as absurd and ridiculous, that these men should 
 attempt to dictate to them what ihcy should not read, or set up an 
 inquisitorial crusade against the Bible. They wished it, and if for 
 no other reason, that the}^ might show that they possessed religious 
 liberty, and were determined to enjoy it. They poured inexpressi- 
 ble contempt upon the ignorance, fanaticism, and even the immo- 
 rality, which characterized some of the pretended ministers of 
 religion, who dreaded to have their lives brought into comj^arison 
 with the requirements of God's word. 
 
 "Those of our friends who were consulted on the subject almost 
 invariably counselled us to take no notice of the low and virulent, 
 
 17 
 
258 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 attacks made upon us, with which the people at kirge had no sym- 
 pathy, and of which every intelligent man would perceive the un- 
 worthy object. Such articles would refute themselves, and injure 
 their authors rather than us. 
 
 " The results justified such an opinion. One gentleman (a Portu- 
 guese) in particular said to us, with emphasis, 'Taking no notice 
 of these things, you ought to continue your holy mission, and 
 scatter truth among the people.' With this advice we complied, 
 and it is now a pleasing reflection that our energies and time were 
 devoted to vastly higher and nobler objects than the refutation of 
 the baseless but rancorous falsehoods which were put forth against 
 us. We knew full well that this opposition was not so much against 
 us as against the cause of the Bible, with which we were identified, 
 and we were content to 'stand still and see the salvation of the 
 Lord.' And most delightful it was to witness the results of that 
 overruling Providence which can make the wrath of man tributary 
 to the divine praise. 
 
 "The malignity of this worse than infidel opposition to the 
 truth excited the curiosity of numbers to examine whether indeed 
 the word of God was not * profitable for instruction and for doc- 
 trine.' The results of such an examination upon every candid 
 mind may be easily conjectured. Thus the truths of inspiration 
 found free course to hundreds of flimilies and scores of schools, 
 where they might be safely left to do their own office upon the 
 minds and hearts of the people. 
 
 "Some instances of the happy and immediate effects of circulating 
 the Bible came to our knowledge; but it is reserved for eternity 
 to reveal the full extent of the benefit. While subsequently tra- 
 velling in distant provinces, I found that the sacred volumes put 
 in circulation at Rio de Janeiro had sometimes gone before me, and 
 wherever they went an interest had been awakened Avhich led the 
 people to seek for more." 
 
 There are other means than newspapers for the progress of the 
 Brazilians in knowledge and belles-lettres. 
 
 In addition to the various colleges and academies described in 
 another chapter, there are a number of public institutions and as- 
 sociations whose object is the cultivation of literature and science, 
 and the diffusion of knowledge. 
 
National Library. 259 
 
 The Bibliotheca Nacional contains 100,000 volumes. These con- 
 sist chiefly of the books originally belonging to the Eoyal Library 
 of Portugal, which were brought over by Dom John VI. The 
 collection is annually augmented by donations and Government 
 aid. It was thrown open to the public by the Portuguese monarch, 
 and has ever since remained under suitable regulations, free of 
 access to all who choose to enter its saloon and read. This library 
 is open daily fl-om nine a.m. till two p.m., and was formerly en- 
 tered from the Rua detraz do Carmo; but the Government has 
 recently purchased the commodious private residence of Sr. Vianna, 
 which is beautifully situated in the vicinity of the Passeio Publico, 
 where the accommodations will doubtless be superior to those 
 which it has hitherto possessed. When it was located in the old 
 library-buildings, it presented an interesting sight to the visitor. 
 Tables covered with cloth, on which were arranged writing- 
 materials, and frames designed to support lai'ge volumes, extended 
 throuofh the room from end to end. The shelves, risinj; from the 
 floor to the lofty ceiling, were covered with books of every 
 language and date. You might here call for any volume the 
 library contained, and sit down to read and take notes at your 
 pleasure. The newspapers of the city and various European 
 magazines were always ready for the reader. !Not only this apart- 
 ment, but also various alcoves and rooms adjoining it on either 
 hand, were filled all around with books. This collection has also 
 been increased by valuable private donations, among which that of 
 the books of the late Jose Bonifacio de Andrada deserves especial 
 mention. 
 
 The publicity of such a library cannot fail to have a beneficial 
 influence upon the literary taste and acquirements of the students 
 of the metropolis, — which, by degrees, will extend itself to tha 
 whole community. While the student at Eio may find in tlie 
 National Library nearly all that he can desire in the field of ancient 
 literature, he may also easily gain access to more modera works 
 in the subscription-libraries. 
 
 The English, the German, and the Portuguese residents have 
 severally established such libraries for their respective use. That 
 of the English is somewhat extensive and valuable. 
 
 Among the Government institutions must be classed the National 
 
260 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Museum, on the Campo de Santa Anna, which is gratuitously thrown 
 open to visitors; and great numbers avail themselves of this plea- 
 sanl and instructive resort. The collection of minerals has been 
 much augmented in value by a donation from the heirs of Jose 
 Bonifacio de Andrada. They presented to the Museum the entire 
 cabinet of their father, Avho in his long public career had rare 
 opportunities for making a most valuable collection. At an eaily 
 period of his life he was Professor of Mineralogy in the University 
 of Coimbra, Portugal, where he published several works that gained 
 tiim a reputation among the scientific men of Europe. Through 
 
 his life he had been 
 industrious in ga- 
 thering together 
 models of machines 
 and mechanical im- 
 provements, toge- 
 ther with choice 
 engravings and 
 coins ; and his 
 heirs certainly 
 
 could not have 
 made a more mag- 
 nanimous disposal 
 of the whole than 
 to confer them 
 upon the nation. 
 The department of 
 mineralogy is well 
 arranged, but con- 
 tains many more 
 foreign than native 
 specimens. The 
 same lack of Bra- 
 zilian curiosities 
 formerly prevailed 
 in other depart- 
 ments, although in that of aboriginal relics there has been from 
 the establishment of the Museum a rich collection of ornaments 
 
 THE HARPY EAGLE. 
 
Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute. 261 
 
 and feather-dresses from Para and Matte Grosso. There is a con- 
 stant enlargement and improvement in every respect. Still, it 
 may be said that while the cabinets of Munich and Vienna, Paris, 
 St. Petersburg, London, and Edinburgh have been enriched by 
 splendid collections from Brazil, in various departments of natural 
 history, yet in the Imperial Museum of Rio de Janeiro but a meagre 
 idea can be formed of the interesting productions — mineral, vege- 
 table, and animal — in which the Empire abounds. 
 
 It was here that I saw a very fine living specimen of the great 
 harpy eagle, from the forests of the Amazon. 
 
 There is an Imperial Academy of the Fine Arts, which was 
 founded in 1824, by a decree of the National Assembly. It is at 
 present organized with a Director and four Professors, — viz.: of paint- 
 ing and landscape, of architecture, of sculpture and of design, and 
 a corresponding number of substitutes. This institution is open to 
 all who wish to be instructed in either department, and about 
 seventy students are annually matriculated, — the greater proportion 
 in the department of design. This Academy also provides funds 
 for the support of a certain number of its most meritorious alumni 
 at Pome, where they have ample opportunity for studj'ing the 
 classic productions of ancient and modern art. 
 
 The Conservatorio de Musica is a State Academy where instruc- 
 tion in instrumental and vocal music is given to both sexes by 
 competent professors. There is also a Conservatorio Dramatico, to 
 whose censorship were submitted, in 1854, two hundred and fifty 
 plays, of which one hundred and seventy were approved, fifty-foui 
 were amended or suppressed, and thirty-three w^ere of such a cha- 
 racter as not only to be suppressed but to merit unqualified rebuke. 
 
 The Imperial Agricultural, the Statistical, and the Aiixiliadora 
 Societies enroll many public-spirited men and good writers. But 
 the association which in its character, dignity, and numbers is 
 the first in all South America is the Brazilian Historical and Geo- 
 graphical Institute, organized at Rio de Janeiro in 1838, which has 
 done more than any other society to awaken the spirit of Brazilian 
 literary enterprise. This association adopted as its fundamental 
 plan the design of collecting, arranging, and publishing or pre- 
 serving documents illustrative of the history and geography of 
 Brazil. Several distinguished persons took a deep interest in it 
 
262 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 from the first. The Governinent also lent a fostering hand. The 
 Greneral Assembly voted an annual subsidy in aid of its objects, and 
 the Department of Foreign Affairs instructed the attaches of the 
 Brazilian embassies in Europe to procure and to copy papers of 
 interest that exist in the archives of different courts, relative to 
 the early history of Brazil. By this movement individual exertions 
 were aroused, and the spirit of inquiry was excited in different 
 parts of the Empire as well as abroad, and interesting results have 
 already been accomplished. 
 
 During the first year of its existence, this Institute numbered 
 near four hundred members and correspondents, and had collected 
 over three hundred manuscripts, of various length and value. The 
 most important of these it has already given to the world, together 
 with some valuable discourses and essays furnished by its members. 
 Two Fridays of each month are devoted to the sittings of this 
 association; and none of its members and patrons are so punctual 
 or take so deep an interest in all its proceedings as Dom Pedro II. 
 Its organ is a Quarterly Eeview and Journal, which publishes the 
 proceedings of the society at length, together with all the more 
 important documents read before it. We have been particularly 
 interested in the articles it has contained upon the aboriginal tribes 
 of South America, and also in its biographical sketches of dis- 
 tinguished Brazilians. The President is the Yiscount de Sapucahy. 
 
 On the whole, it may be questioned whether the Portuguese 
 language contains a more valuable collection of miscellany than is 
 thrown together in the pages of the Revista Trimensal ou Jornal 
 do Instituto Historico Brazileiro. 
 
 Almost all the leading men of Brazil belong to the learned pro- 
 fessions. Such a thing as an eminent mechanic or merchant hold- 
 ing high position in the State I believe to be unknown. There 
 are certain officers who hold their appointment and receive pay 
 under Government, in accordance with a rule which deserves par- 
 ticular mention. The professors of some of the public institutions, 
 and perhaps the attaches of some of the Government bureaux, 
 receive a certain annual salary. It may not be large ; but, after 
 holding office for a stipulated number of years, the employee, if his 
 conduct has been without reproach, can retire, and is paid from the 
 Imperial Treasury a sum equal to the added salaries of his whole 
 
Administration of Justice. 263 
 
 term of service. This is a strong inducement to the faithful dis- 
 charge of duty, and perhaps operates to keep unscrupulous dema- 
 gogues from seeking office as a reward for party exertions. It is 
 thus that the under-officers in the Brazilian Government acquire a 
 full knowledge of the difficult routine of the various Departments j 
 and the changes of ministry leave no difficulties for the new Cabinet 
 to surmount in carrying on the machinery of government. The 
 Brazilian mode certainly seems more in accordance with common 
 sense than the rotation-in-office principle which prevails in the 
 United States. 
 
 In another chapter will be found the course of study pursued in 
 the chief law-school of the Empire. The administration of justice 
 is much simpler than in England or the United States. There are 
 almost the same magistrates and judges, under different names. 
 The delegado or suhdelegado is the justice of the peace; the juiz 
 municipal answers to the circuit judge or the presiding officer of 
 the Court of Common Pleas; the Juiz dos Orphcios is the Judge of 
 Probate; the Juiz de Direito is the Judge of the Supreme Court. 
 There are district supreme judges in all the provinces, and there is 
 a Supremo Tribunal de Justicia, which corresponds to the Supreme 
 Court of the United States. 
 
 From the experience of Governor Kent with the Brazilian tri- 
 bunals, and from the interesting letters of Eev. Charles N. Stewart, 
 I cull the following facts in regard to the mode of conducting a 
 criminal trial at Eio de Janeiro. The party accused is first brought 
 before the suhdelegado in whose district the crime has been com- 
 mitted. He is verbally examined, and his replies, as well as the 
 questions, are all recorded. The accused is asked his age, profes- 
 sion, &c. as minutely as the magistrate thinks proper. He is not 
 compelled to answer, but his silence may lead to unfavorable in- 
 ferences. The examination of the prisoner is followed by that of 
 the witnesses, who are sworn by placing the hand upon the Bible. 
 The administration of the oath is of the most solemn and impres- 
 sive character, and in this respect at least the Brazilians read us a 
 wholesome and a needful lesson. All rise — court, officers, bar, and 
 spectators — and stand in profound silence during the ceremony. 
 When the jury retires there is also a great manifestation of respect, 
 — all standing: until the twelve have left the court-room. 
 
264 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The subdelegado, after the preliminary examination, decides 
 whether the accused shall be held for trial, and submits the papers 
 with his decision to a superior officer, who usually confirms it, and 
 the accused is imprisoned or released on bail. 
 
 In civil cases, unless of very great importance, the jurj^ does not 
 form a part of the judicial administration. The jury consists of 
 twelve men. "Forty-eight are summoned for the term; and the 
 panel for each trial is selected by lot, the names being drawn by a 
 boy, who hands the paper to the presiding judge. In capital cases 
 challenges are allowed without the demand of cause. The jury 
 being sworn and empannelled, the prisoner is again examined by 
 the judge — sometimes at great length and with gi*eat minuteness 
 — not only as to his acts, but as to his motives. The record of the 
 former proceedings, including all the testimony, is then read. If 
 either party desire, the witnesses may be again examined, if pre- 
 sent; but they are not bound over, as with us, to appear at the 
 trial. Hence, the examination of the accused and the witnesses at 
 the preliminary process is very important and material. In many 
 instances, the case is tried and determined entirely upon the record 
 as it comes up." — Brazil and La Plata. 
 
 When the record is read, witnesses are produced on the side of 
 the Government, and the prosecuting-attorney addresses the juiy. 
 The testimony, or the witnesses of the defendant, are then intro- 
 duced, and his advocate addresses — sometimes at great length — 
 the twelve on whose decision hangs the destiny of his client. The 
 prosecutor replies if he deem it best; after which the judge briefly 
 charges the jury and gives them a series of questions in writing, 
 the answers to which constitute the vei'dict; and thus, it will be 
 seen, special pleading and legal skirmishing is in a great measure 
 defeated. The decision in each case is by majority, and not by 
 unanimity, as with us. A case began is generally finished without 
 an adjournment of the court, though it should continue through 
 the day and the entire night. 
 
 The arrangement of the court-room is somewhat different from 
 that in the United States. The judge, with his clerk, sits on one 
 side of the hall, and the prosecuting-attorney on the other. The 
 jury, instead of being in a ''box," are seated at two semicircular 
 tables placed at the right and at the left of the judge. The lawyers 
 
Trial by Jury. 265 
 
 do not stand when they address the jury, but, like the professores 
 on exaraination-da}', the collegios always make their speeches ex 
 cathedra. The lawyers not engaged in the suit which may be 
 before the court occup}' a kind of pew which resembles the box for 
 criminals in English and American halls of justice. 
 
 The following verdict of a jury was returned in a case of homi- 
 cide Avhich occurred in Bio in 1851. The trial came off in the 
 spring of 1852, and the " return" is translated fi*om one of the daily 
 newspaj)er8 printed at the capital, and gives a clear and concise 
 notion of the nature of the questions propounded by the judge, and 
 the ease with which a jury can come to a speedy conclusion in 
 regard to the guilt or innocence of any accused individual : — 
 
 Questions propounded by the Judge to the Jury, and the Verdict rendered, 
 in the Second Trial of B. 
 
 In this case the first jury fully acquitted the respondent. The 
 presiding judge appealed to the Court of Eela^ao, consisting of all 
 the judges, twelve in number. This court, on hearing, sustained 
 the appeal and ordered a new trial. 
 
 Questions. 
 
 1. Did the defendant, B., on the 23d of September of the lasl 
 year, kill, by discharging a pistol, the Italian, C, in D.'s hotel ? 
 
 Answer. Yes; (by twelve votes.) 
 
 2. Did he commit the offence in the night-time? 
 Ans. Yes; (by eight votes.) 
 
 3. Did the defendant commit the offence with superiority of 
 arms, in a manner that C. could not defend himself with a proba- 
 bility of repelling the attack? 
 
 Ans. Yes; (by eleven votes.) 
 
 4. Did the defendant commit the offence proceeding with con- 
 cealment or surprise ? 
 
 Ans. No; (by seven votes.) 
 
 5. Are there any circumstances extenuating the offence in favor 
 of the defendant ? 
 
 Ans. Yes; (by eight votes.) By Act 18, § 3, of the Criminal 
 Code: — "If the defendant commits the crime in defence of his 
 proper person;" and ditto, § 4 of same article : — "If the defendant 
 
266 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 commits the offence or crime in retaliation or revdnge of an injury 
 or dishonor which he has suffered." 
 
 6. Do the jury find that the respondent commits the act 
 (or offence) in defence of his person ? 
 
 Ans. Yes; (by seven votes.) 
 
 7. Was the defendant certain of the injury (or evil) which he 
 intended to avoid (or escape from) ? 
 
 Ans. Yes ; (by seven votes.) 
 
 8. Was the defendant absolutely without other means less 
 prejudicial ? 
 
 Ans. No ; (by eight votes.) 
 
 9. Had the defendant provoked the occasion for the conflict? 
 Ans. No; (by eight votes.) 
 
 10. Had the defendant done any wrong which occasioned the 
 conflict ? 
 
 Ans. No ; (by eight votes.) 
 
 11 and 12, (like 9 and 10,) in reference to the family of the de- 
 fendant, if they had provoked, &c. ; and answered, No, (by twelve 
 votes each.) 
 
 Upon this verdict the court adjudged B. guilty, and sentenced 
 him to twelve years' imprisonment at hard labor and the costs. 
 
 An appeal was again taken to the same Court of the Eelacao. 
 He was pardoned by the Emperor, October, 1852, upon application 
 of the Minister-Plenipotentiary of his (B.'s) country and by the 
 petition of others. 
 
 The following is a curious case of some legal interest : — In 
 February, 1853, a black man was put on trial before the jury on 
 charge of having a pocket-knife, (jack-knife, as we call it.) It did 
 not appear that the black had done or threatened any injury ; but 
 the crime was, having a prohibited article. During the trial, a 
 white man appeared and claimed the negro as his slave. This 
 claim was made part of the case on trial, and the jury were directed 
 to determine whether he was free or the slave of the claimant. 
 They found, by the judge giving the casting vote, that he was 
 free, and, by ten votes, that he was guilty of the crime. He 
 was sentenced to one month's impinsonment as a freeman. Thus, 
 he obtained a judicial sec^ence which secured his freedom and 
 
Complaints of Corruption. 267 
 
 had to stay one month as a lodger in jail. A luck}" jack-knife 
 to him ! 
 
 It is impossible, in a "work like this, to enter fully into the merits 
 and demerits of the mode of administering law in Brazil. From 
 time to time many charges of corruption have been brought, by 
 rumor, against those who administer it, and doubtless, in some 
 cases, corruption has existed. Those who have had property 
 awaiting certain decisions of the Juizes dos Orphaos have com- 
 plained that it was much reduced before judgment was rendered. 
 Foreigners have also murmured at what the}^ termed unfairness, 
 and have hinted that some of the magistrates have not been above 
 bribery. 
 
 It would not be altogether just to compare the administration 
 of law in Brazil to that of England ; but I hazard nothing in saying 
 that in no country of South America is there greater personal 
 security and a fairer dispensation of justice than in this Empire. 
 Each year the various codes are becoming better digested ; and the 
 number of eminent men in the legal profession has placed it, in 
 point of mental ability, in the first rank of the learned vocations. 
 
CHAPTEE XY. 
 
 THE CLIMATE OF BRAZIL — ITS SUPERIOEITY TO OTHER TROPICAL COUNTRIES COOL 
 
 RESORTS TRIP TO ST. ALEXIO BRAZILIAN JUPITER PLUVIUS THE MULATTO 
 
 IMPROVISOR SYDNEY SMITH's " IMMORTAL" SURPASSED — A LADY's IMPRESSIONS 
 
 OF TRAVEL AN AMERICAN FACTORY A YANKEE HOUSE THE RIDE UP THE 
 
 ORGAN MOUNTAINS FORESTS, FLOWERS, AND SCENERY — SPECULATION IN TOWN- 
 LOTS — BOA VISTA HEIGHT OF THE SERRA DOS OEGOES CONSTANCIA THE 
 
 "HAPPY valley" THE TWO SWISS BACHELORS YOUTH RENEWED PROSAIC 
 
 CONCLUSION TODD'S " STUDENT'S MANUAL" THE TAPIR THE TOUCAN THE 
 
 FIRE-FLIES EXPENSES OF TRAVELLING NOVA FEIBOURGO CANTA GALLO — 
 
 PETROPOLIS. 
 
 Those whose tropical expei'ience has been in the East Indies or 
 the westei'n coast of Africa can have no just conception of the 
 delightful climate of the greater portion of Brazil. It would scera 
 as if Providence had designed this land as the residence of a srreat 
 nation. Nature has heaped up her bounties of every description : 
 cool breezes, lofty mountains, vast rivers, and plentiful pluvial irri- 
 gation, are treasures far surpassing the sparkling gems and the 
 rich minerals which abound within the borders of this extended 
 territory. No burning sirocco wafts over this fair land to wither 
 and desolate it, and no vast desert, as in Africa, separates its fer- 
 tile provinces. That awful scourge, the earthquake, — which causes 
 strong men to become weak as infants, and which is constantly 
 devastating the cities of Spanish America, — disturbs no dweller in 
 this Empire. While in a large part of Mexico, and also on the 
 west coast of South America, — from Copiapo to the fifth degree 
 of south latitude, — rain has never been known to fall, Brazil is 
 refreshed by copious showers, and is endowed with broad, flowing 
 rivers, cataracts, and sparkling streams. The Amazon, — or, as the 
 aborigines term it. Para, "the father of waters," — with his mighty 
 branches, irrigates a surface equal to two-thirds of Europe; and 
 
 the San Francisco, the Parahiba do Sul, the vast affluents of the 
 
 2G8 
 
The Climate of Brazil. 269 
 
 La Plata, under the names of the Paraguay, Parana, Cuiba, Para- 
 nahiba, and a hundred other streams of lesser note, moisten the 
 fertile soil and bear their tributes to the ocean through the southern 
 and eastern portions of the Empire. Let any one glance at the 
 map of Brazil, and he will instantly be convinced that this land is 
 designed by nature for the sustenance of millions. 
 
 Now, there must be some reason for this bountiful irrigation, 
 this fertility of soil and salubrity of climate. 
 
 Lieutenant Maury — who seems almost literally to have taken 
 *' the winffs of the mornino-" and to have flown to the uttermost 
 parts of the sea — has shown conclusively why it is that Brazil is 
 so blessed above corresponding latitudes in other lands. South 
 America is like a great irregular triangle, w^hose longest side is 
 ujion the Pacific. Of the tw^o sides w^hich lie upon the Atlantic, 
 the longest — extending from Cape Horn to Cape St. Eoque — is 
 three thousand five hundred miles, and looks out upon the south- 
 east ; while the shortest — looking northeastward — has a length of 
 two thousand five hundred miles. This configuration has a power- 
 ful etfect upon the temperature and the irrigation of Brazil. The 
 La Plata and the Amazon result from it, and from those wonderful 
 winds, called the trades, which blow upon the two Atlantic sides 
 of the great triangle. These winds, which sweep from the north- 
 east and from the southeast, come laden, in their journey over the 
 ocean, \vith humidity and with clouds. They bear their vapory 
 burdens over the land, distilling, as they fly, refreshing moisture 
 upon the vast forests and the lesser mountains, until, finally caught 
 up by the lofty Andes, in that rarefied and cool atmosphere they 
 are wholly condensed, and descend in the copious rains which per- 
 petuall}^ nourish the sources of two of the mightiest rivers of the 
 world. The prevailing winds on the Pacific coast are north and 
 south. No moisture is borne from the ocean to the huge barrier 
 of mountains within sight of the dashing waves, and hence the 
 aridity of so much of the hypothenuse of the triangle. I have 
 beheld the western and eastern coasts of South America within 
 thirty days of each other, and the former seemed a desert com- 
 pared with the latter. 
 
 No other tropic country is so generally elevated as Brazil. 
 Though there are no very lofty mountains except upon its extreme 
 
270 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 western border, yet the whole Empire has an average elevation 
 of more than seven hundred feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 This o;reat elevation and those stron^c trade-winds combine to 
 produce a climate much cooler and more healthful than the cor- 
 responding latitudes of Africa and Southern Asia. The traveller, 
 the naturalist, the merchant, and the missionary do not have their 
 first months of pleasure or usefulness thrown away, or their con- 
 stitutions imj)aired by acclimating fevers. 
 
 The mean temperature of Brazil — which extends from nearly 
 the fifth degree of north latitude to the thirty-third of south 
 latitude (almost an intertropical region) — is from 81° to 88° 
 Fahrenheit, according to diflTcrent seasons of the year. At Eio de 
 Janeiro, — on the authority of Dr. Dundas, — the mean tempera- 
 ture of thirty years was 73°. In December, (which corresponds to 
 June in the Northern Hemisphere,) maximum, 892°; minimum, 
 70° ; mean, 79°. In July, (coldest month,) maximum, 79° ; mini- 
 mum, 66°; mean, 732°. I can add, from my own observations for 
 several years, that I never saw 90° attained in the summer-time, 
 and the lowest in the winter (June, July, and August) was 60°, 
 and this was earl}' in the morning. 
 
 The heat of summer is never so oppressive as that which I have 
 often experienced, in the hot days of July and August, at New 
 York and Boston, where frequently the high point of 104° or 
 105° Fahrenheit has been reached. It must, however, be conceded 
 that three months of weather ranging between 73° and 89° would 
 be intolerable if it were not for the cool sea-breeze on the coast 
 which generally sets in at eleven a.m., and the delicious land- 
 breeze which so gently fans the earth until the morning sun has 
 flashed over the mountains. In the interior the nights are alwaj'S 
 cool; and it may be added that, one hundred miles from the sea- 
 coast, the climate is entirely different. 
 
 Eio is happily situated in its accessibility to the elevated regions. 
 An hour's ride leaves you among the cascades and coolness of 
 Tijuca ; six hours by steamer, railway, and coach lift you up to 
 the mountain-city of Petropolis ; or twelve hours will bring you 
 amid the sublimities of the Serra dos Orgaos and the silent and 
 refreshing shades of Constancia, where, at Heath's, we may be far 
 away from the dust, din, and diplomacy which are the constant 
 
Trip to St. Alexio. 271 
 
 concomitants of the commercial and political capital of Brazil. 
 Again, we may vary our route and ascend the mountains to the 
 elevated uplands upon which are situated the prosperous towns 
 of Nova Fribourgo and Canta Gallo, with their adjacent flourishing 
 cofiee-plantations. All of these are delightful resorts, and are be- 
 coming each summer more and more frequented. 
 
 Not far from the usual route to Constancia is the sweet little 
 valley of St. Alexio, where an American has erected a cotton- 
 factory in the midst of the most beautiful tropic scenery. To 
 some it might be a profanation that these wilds should be startled 
 by any other sounds than the leaping streams from the Serra, or 
 the songs of birds and the shrill music of the cicada ; but perhaps 
 there are few who would not be content to behold industr}^ taking 
 the place of indolence, though they might yield to none in love for 
 the beautiful. 
 
 I visited St. Alexio a number of times, and enjoyed the kind 
 hospitality of its director, who through many obstacles had at last 
 triumphed in establishing the first successful cotton-manufactory 
 in the province of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 My last visit to St. Alexio was made under such circumstances 
 of weather that I am consti-ained to give it as an instance of what 
 must be expected at certain seasons of the year. Though in the 
 pi'ovince of Eio de Janeiro there is no ''rainy season," proj^erly so 
 called, yet many visitors to the capital will not soon forget the 
 drenching rains, made doubly perceptible by the uncouth water- 
 spouts (see those in the engraving of the " Senate-House ") which 
 formerly poured more than a miniature cascade upon the passers- 
 by. But of these spouts it may now be said their "occupation's 
 gone," and by a city ordinance they are really where Intrudo 
 is, — among the curiosities of Eio that have only a historical 
 existence. 
 
 The usual mode of getting to St. Alexio is by steamer to 
 Piedade, and thence by carriage to the secluded valley some eight 
 or ten miles from the landing-place. On the occasion of the visit 
 referred to, I was accompanied by a number of friends, among 
 whom was Mr. M., the worthy director and one of the owners of 
 the " Fabrica." 
 
 "We left the Quai dos Mineiros (not far from the Convent of San 
 
272 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Bento) in the little clumsy steamer that plies between Eio and the 
 upper end of the bay. The morning was bright, but we were 
 soon overtaken by a thunder-storm. Such rain! In temperate 
 zones we fancy that we know what is meant by rain. Quite a 
 mistake! It is child's play when compared to the pouring tor- 
 rents of the tropics. There was no cabin, and the curtains but 
 half performed their oflSce. In rushed the water over our clothes, 
 under our feet, and out at the scuppers, like holy-stone day on 
 board ship. 
 
 When we were sufficiently wet, the rain abated and the curtain 
 rose. And well that it did so; for the bad weather had driven in 
 all the motley crowd of troupeiros usually occupying, along with 
 their more respectable animals, the forward-deck of the boat; and 
 the hot steam arising from the greasy cattle-drivers, the unkempt 
 muleteers, and the damp darkies, was not the most agreeable to 
 the lady portion of our company. 
 
 The time was beguiled in looking at the glorious scenery and in 
 listening to the improvisation of a mulatto who was going to a 
 festa in Maje, there to sell his wit and his doces. He told long 
 stories in verse, and imitated different voices with admirable skill. 
 "When asked to improvise on Paqueta, the lovely insular gem that 
 we were passing, he immediately dashed off in a strain of poetry, 
 describing the beauties of the island, and then descanted on the 
 fiiults and failings of its inhabitants, and in a satiric strain worth}' 
 of Juvenal lashed the proceedings of the people who frequented the 
 religious festas that are annually held on its bright shores. He 
 concluded with a eulogy on Jose Bonifacio de Andrada, who here 
 ended his days. In short, had Corinne heard him, jealousy would 
 have saved her the trouble of dying for love. Jesting apart, the 
 man's talent was of a high order, and the harmonious and flowing 
 verse showed the adaptation of the Portuguese language to 
 rhythmical composition 
 
 After a hasty repast at a rude inn near the landing-place of 
 Piedade, we prepared for the road. Up came our equipage. I 
 must, in justice to our worthy host, say that his nice American 
 vehicle had received some injury, so that he could only send his 
 mules and engage the best conveyance afforded by the village of 
 Maje. We felt some slight remorse at the destruction of life that 
 
A Lady's Impkessions of Travel. 213 
 
 our entrance into the venerable vehicle must have caused, as it 
 seemed to have served as a temporary refuge to some gay, locked-out 
 rooster. But we ought not to speak ill of the aged. Guiltless 
 alike of paint and washing, it far outdid Sydney Smith's ''Immor- 
 tal," which, doubtless, was kept in perfect cleanliness by his tidy 
 Yorkshire servants. However, the sight of a good team reconciletl 
 us to the rudeness of the vehicle. Four fine mules plunged along 
 through mud and water : I then understood how philosophical it 
 was to avoid the trouble of washing a carriage. The Hyde Park 
 turn-out of Count D'Orsay or the Earl of Harrington, in one short 
 mile, would have been on a par with ours. We forded juvenile 
 rivers and newlj'-made brooks; we lumbered, up hill and down 
 dale; now the coachman made a skilful detour close to a bank to 
 avoid a deep mud-hole on the other side, and now he was obliged to 
 pass under some tree whose overhanging branches gave us a capital 
 douche. After some miles of this travel we stopped at a venda to 
 give the animals breath and water before the gallop down the slope. 
 Soon we were off again. 
 
 " On, on Tve hasten'd, and we drew 
 Their gaze of wonder as we flew!" 
 
 And there was as black a tempest gathering for us poor Giaours as 
 ever threatened to wet that uncomfortable, sword-waving rider of 
 the "blackest steed!" Down came night and Brazilian rain! 
 What had formerly been the hood of the carriage was transformed 
 into a sort of a kitchen-sink, with a hole in the middle, through 
 which poured the water. Luckily, we had an umbrella : this was 
 inserted in the hole, and thus the stream was averted from our de- 
 voted heads. 
 
 In the midst of all this our driver gave a loud whistle, ai d 
 thereupon out rushed four dark figures from a hut by the roadside. 
 A lady of the party afterward described her romantic impressions 
 of this scene as follows: — 
 
 '•What my companions felt I know not; but it was quite allow- 
 able for me, a poor, weak woman, to give myself over as robbed, 
 or, at least, 'murthered!' One man jumped on the box with a 
 huge stick in his hand, and the others followed behind, uttering a 
 series of unearthly yells and undesirable epithets, but all addressed 
 
 to the mules; and, as I knew that the skins and skulls of those 
 
 18 
 
274 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians 
 
 beasts were thicker than mine, I was consoled. It was a party 
 sent to push us up a steep hill; for be it known to all who are 
 ignorant of the idiosyncrasy of these animals, that, when once they 
 consider the task assigned to them uni-easonable, no persuasion 
 can induce them to set shoulder to the work. No doubt they cry 
 to Jupiter, but he will not help them; and so they stand still, or 
 allow the vehicle to draw them backward; and on the edge of a 
 
 THE FABRICA AT ST.ALEXIO. 
 
 precipice this is not a pleasant way of travelling. So, after each 
 mule had clearly learned from the yelling quartette the estimation 
 in which he was held, we gained the summit. How gladly we 
 rolled down into that beautiful valley where the factory raises its 
 white walls! We afterward beheld it under a bright sun, and 
 Southej^'s remark that ' even nature herself abhors a factory, and 
 refuses to clothe its walls with climbers/ is here contradicted, for 
 
A Grove of Sensitive Trees. 275 
 
 the lovely glen in whose bosom this building reposes would lend 
 grace to any structure. 
 
 "How hearty was our welcome from the pretty Virginia hosto-ss 
 who met us as we entered, all forlorn! Eight gayly we recounted 
 our fright and adventures, and it was the old story over again : — 
 
 " ' She loved us for the dangers we had pass'd, 
 And we loved her that she did pity them.' 
 
 " Byron could not bear to see a lady eat, — it is so unethereal. 
 Strictly speaking, it is a singular process, — throwing sundry morsels 
 into a hole iu your face and using your chin as a mill. Of course, 
 it was only the masculine part of the company who partook of 
 the Westphalia ham, broiled chicken, and other dainties prepared 
 by the good hostess. Such proceedings did not agree with the 
 poetical feelings of my more celestial nature !" 
 
 The following morning we survej'cd the locality. The jjro- 
 prietor's house stands at a short distance from the factory, and 
 both were actually framed in the United States, brought out in 
 pieces, and put together in Brazil. The pine used for the house 
 has, in spite of predictions to the contrary, proved sujierior in 
 durability to jSIorwegiau pine. A meadow of bright green slopes 
 away from the house toward a clear, rapid brook, which, after 
 rains, may well be called a river; but in dry weather it is easily 
 traversed on the stones that strew its bed. Mr. M. had long and 
 painful researches to find a stream that never dries up even in the 
 hottest season. At last he discovered this little river, and here 
 took up his abode. The hills rise around, covered with the most 
 luxuriant growth; here and there a stately palm rises like a chief- 
 tain above its fellows; farther on, the mountains stretch away and 
 blend with the clear blue of the heavens. On the branches sing 
 bright-plumaged birds, that seem, in the early morning, to call on 
 the sensitive-plant trees to awake from their night's slumber. It 
 was, indeed, hard for me to realize that the little sensitive-jDlant 
 which I had looked upon at home as among the most delicate of 
 exotics is here reproduced in almost giant forms. Its family abounds 
 in Brazil, and the grove that surrounds the residence of Mr.. M. is 
 actually composed of trees which quietly fold their leaves in repose 
 at vespers, only to be awakened by the morning sun and the sing- 
 
276 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 iiig-birds. The city-friends of Mrs. M. used to oifer their condo- 
 lence that she was so for removed from society in that retired vale; 
 but they were always cut short in their proffered sympathy by the 
 information that no sense of loneliness pr^ivailcd in that sweet 
 spot. There one may find companionship in those majestic moun- 
 tains "precipitously steep," the flowering woods, th^ forest-voices, 
 and the gushing music of brooks and fountains. 
 
 A YANKEE HOUSE IN BRAZIL. 
 
 The. remembrance of St. Alexio is like that of a pleasant dream, 
 or the sunny memories of the secluded vales and sparkling waters 
 at the base of the Dent du Midi, — not a day's ride from the upper 
 end of the Lake of Geneva. 
 
 Mr. M. deserves the greatest credit for his persevering efforts 
 which placed here this first successful cotton-manufactory in the 
 province. Others had endeavored to establish similar fabricas, to 
 be driven by steam-power, in the city; but they were failures. Not 
 only had Mr. M. to contend with nature, but probably his worst 
 annoj^ances came from a dilatory Government. As to operatives, 
 the factory is supplied from the German colony of Petropolis. 
 Another has paid a just tribute of merit to Mr. M. ; and I can 
 heartily subscribe to the sentiments therein contained: — "Though 
 it is only in the more common fabrics in cotton that the manufac- 
 turer can yet compete with British and American goods, yet he 
 
Blooming Forests of the Serra dos Orgaos. 277 
 
 [Mr M.] deserves a medal of honor from the Government, and 
 the patronage of the whole Empire, not only for the, establish- 
 ment of the manufactory, but for the living example — set 
 before a whole province of indolent and sluggish natives — of 
 Yankee energy, ingenuity, indefatigable industry, and unyielding 
 perseverance." (Mr. M. died in 1857.) 
 
 It is a comfortable day's ride from St. Alexio to Constancia, — • 
 though the usual manner of procedure is to start at mid-day from 
 Kio in the steamer, arrive at Piedade at three o'clock, where 
 mules and guides are awaiting those w^ho have been prudent enough 
 to announce by letter to the "jolly Heath" their intention of 
 spending a few days amid the Serra dos Orgaos. A few hours 
 acx'oss the lowlands bring us through the town of Maje to Frechal, 
 (or Freixal,) where the weary and the lazy often spend a night in 
 a dirty inn, surrounded by crowds of children, (the proprietor is 
 the father of twenty-three meninos,) and by vast troops of mules, 
 which, laden with coffee, are on their way to the steamer at 
 Piedade. But for those who love a dashing ride up the mountains, 
 on a road in some places paved as the old Eoman causeways, — 
 those who wish to feel an evening atmosphere which in coolness 
 and chilliness reminds one of the temperate zone, — the Barreira 
 will be the resting-place. Here is the toll-gate of this fine moun- 
 tain mule-path, which must have been built at an immense cost, 
 as several miles are paved like the streets of a city. 
 
 We zigzag up the steep sides of the Serra, looking down upon 
 the tops of majestic forest-trees whose very names are unfamiliar, 
 and whose appearance is as curious as picturesque and beautiful. 
 Dr. Gardner, who made a most thorough investigation of the flora 
 of the Organ Mountains, has recorded in his interesting travels the 
 vegetal riches of this lofty range, and those who would revel in 
 descriptions of palms, Cassim, Lauri, Bignonias, Myrtacece, Orchi- 
 de(V, Bromellacece, ferns, &c. &c. must turn to the pages of a work 
 which, though necessarily deficient in the history, politics, and 
 present condition of Brazil, is the most unassuming and charming 
 book ever written on the natural asj)ect of the tropic land under 
 consideration. 
 
 In the months of April and May, (October and November in 
 Brazil,) only the autumnal tints of our gorgeous North American 
 
278 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 woods can compare with the sight of the forest of the Serra dos 
 Orgaos. Then the various species of the Laurus are blooming, and 
 the atmosphere is loaded with the rich perfume of their tiny snow- 
 white blossoms. The Cassice then put forth their millions of golden 
 flowers, while, at the same time, huge trees — whose native names 
 would be more unintelligible, though less pedentic, than their 
 botanic terms of Lasiandra, Fontanesia, and others of the Melas- 
 toma tribe — are in full bloom, and, joining rich purple to the 
 brightest yellow, jjresent, together with gorgeously-clothed shrubs, 
 "flowers of more mingled hue than her [Iris's] purpled scarf 
 can show." From time to time a silk-cotton-tree (the Chorisia 
 speciosa^ shoots up its lofty hemispherical top, covered with 
 thousands of beautiful large rose-colored blossoms, which grate- 
 fully contrast with the masses of vivid green, purple, and yellow 
 that clothe the surrounding trees. Floral treasures are heaped 
 on every side. Wild vines, twisted into most fantastic forms or 
 hanging in graceful festoons, — passion-flowers, trumpet-flowers, 
 and fuchsias in their native glory, — tree-ferns, whose elegance of 
 form is only surpassed by the tall, gently-curved palmito, which 
 is the very embodiment of the line of beauty, — orchids, whose 
 flowers are of as soft a tint as the blossom of the peach-tree, or as 
 brilliant as red spikes of fire, — curious and eccentric epiphytes 
 draping naked rocks or the decaj'ing branches of old forest-mon- 
 archs, — all form a scene enrapturing to the naturalist, and bewilder- 
 ing with its richness to the uninitiated, who still appreciate the 
 beauty and the splendor that is scattered on every side by the 
 Hand Divine. The overpowering sensation which one experiences 
 when entering an extensive conservatory filled with the choicest 
 plants, exotics of the rarest description, and odor-laden flowers, 
 is that (multiplied a thousandfold) which filled my mind as I gazed 
 for the first time upon the landscape, with its tiers of mountains 
 robed in such drapery as that described above; and yet there was 
 such a feeling of liberty, incompatible with the sensation expressed 
 by the word "overpowering," that it is impossible to define it. In 
 the province of Minas-Geraes, from a commanding point, I once 
 beheld the magnificent forest in bloom ; and, as the hills and undu- 
 lating plains stretched far away to the horizon, they seemed to be 
 envelojDcd in a fairy-mist of purple and of gold. 
 
Speculation in Town-Lots. 279 
 
 The Barreira is situated in a spot of great wildness and sublimity; 
 for the Organ-peaks, that rise thousands of feet above, seem like 
 the aifjuilles which start fantastically from the glaciers of Mont 
 Blanc; and the rushing, leaping, thundering cascades are com- 
 parable to the five wild mountain-torrents, "fiercely glad," that 
 pour into the Vale of Chamouny. I was once at the Barreira during 
 a tropic storm, and the foaming, roaring rivers, which hurried 
 down with fearful leap from the very region of dread lightning 
 and clouds, niadlj' dashed against the huge masses of granite, as 
 if they would have hurled them from their mighty fastenings, and 
 tore their way into the deep valley beneath with sounds that 
 reverberated among the giant peaks above, giving me a new com- 
 mentary on the sublime description in the Apocalypse : — "And I 
 heard a voice from heaven, as the voice of many waters and as the 
 voice of a great thunder." 
 
 From the Barreira we ascend b}' zigzags to the uplands, where 
 is situated the former fazenda of Mr. March. His residence — 
 80 often visited by Langsdorf, the celebrated Eussian voyager, 
 Burchell, the African traveller, and Gardner, the botanist — is now 
 to be numbered among the things that were; for the spirit of 
 enterprise and money-making has laid out in this elevated valley 
 a new resort for the Fluminenses, and speculation in town-lots 
 among the Organ Mountains was rife as 1 left the shores of Brazil. 
 I hope that it ma}' prove a successful enterprise; for here the 
 wearied and jaded irom the city will find coolness, salubrity, and 
 quiet in the midst of the most imposing scenery. 
 
 Before reaching March's and the former mountain-home of Mr. 
 H n, (whose hospitality many a visitor to Brazil will have occa- 
 sion to remember,) we climb along the very sides of one of the most 
 precipitous of the Organ-pipes. Hence is a view of commanding 
 extent, — of mountain, plain, bay, and ocean, — embracing, it is said, 
 a panorama of more than two hundred miles in circumference, in 
 the midst of which, though distant, the capital of the Empire is 
 seen gleaming amid its verdant and lofty environs. The point 
 for beholding this landscape is appropriately called Boa Vista, 
 ("beautiful view.") So enraptured was the Eev. Charles N. 
 Stewart with the grandeur of the scene, that he doubts if — in its 
 combination of mountain, valley, and water — it has a rival; and. 
 
280 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 adds that, in his Avide experience in various continents, he onl}' 
 remembers one other prospect that approximates to it, — viz. : the 
 pass " through the mountains of Granada, followed by the first 
 view of the ' Vega,' with the city, the Myalls, and the towers of the 
 Alhambra, and the snow-covered heights of the Nevada above all, 
 gloriously lighted by the glowing hues of the setting sun." 
 
 At the elevation of Boa Vista the climate is very much cooler 
 than at Eio. In the month of June the thermometer has been 
 known to foil as low as 32° Fahrenlveit just before daybreak; but 
 this is rare : 40° in the morning and 70° in the warmest portion 
 of the day is the winter regime; and, in the summer, 60° and 80° 
 are the two extremes. In January and February, (the July and 
 August of the Southern tropics,) violent thunder-storms often 
 occur, — generally in the afternoon, — and then pass over, leaving 
 the evening delightfully cool. 
 
 Here and at Constancia nearly all the European fruits and vege- 
 tables thrive ; and, as at Madeira and Teneriifo, the apple and the 
 orange, the pear and the banana, the vine and the coffee-plant, 
 may be seen growing side by side. Mr. Heath receives quite an 
 income from the productions of his vegetable-gardens ; and, at Rio, 
 the fine cauliflower, (so difficult of cultivation in the tropics,) the 
 best asparagus, and most of the artichokes, peas, carrots, &c. come 
 from Constancia, and are esteemed as rare in that land as the 
 carefully-cultivated hothouse pineapple in England. Two English 
 shillings per head are given for the largest Constancia cauliflower 
 at Eio. This kind of garden, it has seemed to me, might be in- 
 creased in number in the upper region of the Serra, where are 
 many fertile little valleys, all well irrigated by small streams of 
 cool and limpid water. If they could be managed with the care, 
 industr}'', and perseverance which Mr. Heath has brought to bear 
 upon such cultivation, they could not but bring a lucrative return 
 to their proprietors, and would confer a great benefit upon the 
 growing city of Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 Like the mountains of Tijuca and the curious elevations around 
 Eio, the whole of the Organ range consists of granite. The alluvial 
 soil is very deep and rich in the valleys, and underneath it exists 
 the same red-colored, slaty, ferrugineous clay which is so common 
 throughout Brazil. 
 
The Altitude of the Mountains. 
 
 281 
 
 The scenery becomes more tame as we leave Boa Vista, and wo 
 seem to be far removed from the climate of the plains, though 
 around us the palms, ferns, cacti, tillandsias, &c. tell us that we are 
 not beyond the limits of Capricorn. Creeping and drooping i)lants, 
 bright flowers and foliage, still abound. Occasionally, howling 
 monkeys hold a noisy caucus over your head, or a flock of bright 
 
 THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS. 
 
 parrots glides swiftly over the tall and gracefull3^-bending bamboos, 
 which are a distinctive feature in the landscape. This giant of the 
 gras.s-tribe has frequently been found in these mountains from 
 eighty to one hundred feet in height and eighteen inches in dia- 
 meter. They do not, however, grow perpendicularly, nor often 
 singly, but, in vast groups, shoot up fifty and sixty feet, and then 
 curve gently downward, forming most cool and beautiful domes. 
 
 As we look back, we have a view of the Organ-pipes, and the 
 aspect which they present is entirely diff'erent from that ragged, 
 
282 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 pointed, and diminutive appearance which they show when seen 
 from the bay. From our nearness and our altitude they seem like 
 sharp naked mountains rising above a sea of foliage. The range 
 from which they are detached is still more lofty, and is most 
 massive in its character. Few persons have ascended these moun- 
 tains, and those have either been naturalists or daring hunters. 
 Dr. Gardner made probably the most thorough scientific explora- 
 tion, and up these heights Heath has often pursued the clumsy 
 tapir or the lithe jaguar. The sloth, howling monkej'S, the Bra- 
 zilian otter, a little deer, {Cervus nemorivagus,) and two kinds of 
 peccari, may still prove attractions to the naturalist and the sports- 
 man; but every year they are becoming more rare. Of birds there 
 are many varieties, remarkable for their brilliant plumage, and a 
 few are much sought after for their delicacy, the jacu and jacuti ng a 
 being the most esteemed. 
 
 The difficulties of the ascension of these mountains consist of 
 the thickets of underwood, the sex'ried ranks of great ferns and 
 trailing bamboos, in addition to the steepness of the Serra. The 
 paths of the tapir, however, render the undertaking much more 
 feasible than it otherwise would be. Dr. Gai'dner, after two 
 attempts, — the latter made several years after the first, — attained 
 the highest summit of the range. These mountains — known in 
 geographies as a portion of the Brazilian Andes, the Serra do Mar, 
 and the Organ Mountains — have been variously estimated to pos- 
 sess an altitude ranging from five thousand seven hundred feet up 
 to eight thousand feet. The naturalist mentioned above made the 
 only calculations of their height that have come under my observa- 
 tion ; and, though they are only approximate, I give them, in this 
 note, as interesting from the manner in which he reached his con- 
 clusions. According to him, the elevation of the highest peak is 
 seven thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea.* 
 
 * In the first ascent, Dr Gardner accidentally broke his barometer before he had 
 made a single observation ; but, when on hi^ last excursion he attained the highest 
 summit, with the aid of the thermofheter he made the estimate in the manner thus 
 recorded: — "At mid-day the thermometer indicated 64° in the shade, and I found 
 that water boiled at a heat of 198° ; from which I estimate the height of the moun- 
 tain above the sea-level to be 7800 feet. A register of the thermometer — kept 
 
CONSTANCIA. 
 
 283 
 
 From March's an hour's brisk trotting will bring us within sight 
 of Constancia. Mr. Heath, when expecting guests, is almost 
 
 
 %^J^ 
 
 HEATH'S, (CONSTANCIA.) 
 
 sure to meet them at an inner gate of his estate, about a half-mile 
 from his residence, the main building of which rises from the midst 
 
 during our stay in the upper regions of the Serra and observed on the level of 
 Mr. March's fazenda — gave a mean difference of temperature between the two 
 places of 12° 5''. Baron Humboldt estimates the mean decrement of heat within 
 the tropics at 1° for every 344 feet of elevation, and considers this ratio as uniform 
 up to the height of 8000 feet, beyond which it is reduced to three-fifths of that 
 quantity, as far as the elevation of 20,000 feet. It has, however, since been found 
 that, in general, the effect of elevation above the level of the sea, in diminishing 
 temperature, is, in all latitudes, nearly in proportion to the height, the decrement 
 being P of heat for every 352 feet of altitude: this would give 4400 feet for the 
 elevation of the highest peak of the Organ Mountains above Mr. March's fazenda; 
 and, as this is 3100 feet above the level of the sea, we have for the total greatest 
 elevation 7500 feet.'' — Gardner's Travels in Brazil, second edition, p. 405 
 
284 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of the little cottages like a huge Bernese chalet. The smaller 
 buildings are filled, in the summer-time, with boarders who come 
 up to enjoy the cool air of Constancia and the bracing douche of 
 the cascade which rushes down from the hill opposite. In this 
 quiet cul-de-sac the Northerner is reminded, by the moss-roses and 
 violets, of his own far-off land in springtime. Not far from the 
 front-door, as we approach the main edifice, is a large clump of 
 roses of a diminutive kind, growing in wild profusion. The tube- 
 rose, the CajDC jessamine, and the delicate heliotroj^e, fill the air 
 with sweets; and these and the arbors, with their honeysuckles, 
 attract the tiny humming-birds, who sparkle in the sunshine like 
 winged emeralds of richest hue. 
 
 Who that has been to Constancia will forget the material com- 
 forts with which Heath surrounds one? It is one of the few resorts 
 for health and recreation that I have visited where the proprietor 
 seems more like a host entertaining his friends than a landlord 
 fleecing his boarders. His anecdotes keep up a constant cheer- 
 fulness, while his adventures among the forests and the mountains 
 of Brazil are full of instruction. He accompanied Gardner on 
 many of his excursions, and has been a perfect Nimrod. When 
 the felis-onga abounded, the neighbors were sure to send for Heath 
 to avenge depredations upon their folds; and many a well-sent 
 bullet from his rifle has brought the beautiful jaguar — the monarch 
 of the feline tribe in the Western World — to terms, which no troops 
 of hounds or Brazilian guns could have effected. He informed me 
 that many years ago his first visit to Constancia was in hunting 
 the tapir which had made such havoc in the fields of Indian corn 
 belonging to M.iivcW b fazenda, of which he was then the major-domo. 
 The number of these huge animals that he has in former years 
 killed in one season at Constancia has been thirty-two. This was 
 merely in the line of duty; for, if he had made a business of it, 
 he could have "bagged" more tapirs, jaguars, peccari, &c. in one 
 year than ever Gordon Cumming or Gerard did of their giant 
 game in the wilds of Kaffraria or Algeria. (Heath died in 1864.) 
 
 It has often been a subject of wonder to me that of the tapir, 
 the largest animal of South America, so little should be known. It 
 also derives an interest from the fact that, though one of its species 
 exists in the Old World, it was not discovered until long after the 
 
The American Tapir. 
 
 285 
 
 Tapir Amerkanus ; for the Malay tapir, differing but little from its 
 Occidental congener, was never described until the governorship 
 of Sir Stamford Raffles in Java. 
 
 The tapir forms one of the connecting-links between the ele- 
 phant and the hog. Its snout is lengthened into a kind of pro- 
 boscis, and, with the exception of the trunk of the elephant, which 
 it resembles, is the longest nasal appendage belonging to any 
 quadruped. It is, however, devoid of that clever little-finger with 
 which nature has enriched the trunk of the land-leviathan. This 
 curious animal has many fossil relatives, but on\j three living 
 species (two of them belonging to South America) have as yet 
 been discovered. 
 
 T H E ■ TA P I R. 
 
 The tapir is extensively distributed over South America east of 
 the Andes, but especially abounds in the tropical portions. It 
 seems to be a nocturnal vegetarian, — sleeping during the day, and, 
 sallying forth at night, feeds upon the young shoots of trees, buds, 
 wild fruits, maize, &c. &c. It is of a deep-brown color throughout, 
 approaching- to black, between three and four feet in height, and 
 from five to six in length. The hair of the body, with the excep- 
 tion of the mane, is scanty, and so closely depressed to the surface 
 that it is scarcely perceived at a short distance. Its muscular 
 
286 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 power is enormous; and this, with the tough, thick hide (ahiiost 
 impervious to musket-ball) which defends its body, enables it to 
 tear through thickets in whatever direction it chooses. The jaguar 
 frequently springs upon it, but is often dislodged by the activity 
 of the tapir, who rushes through the bushes and underwood and 
 endeavors to brush off his enemy against the thick branches. Its 
 ordinary pace is a sort of trot; but it sometimes gallops, though 
 awkwardly and with the head down. It is very fond of the water, 
 and high up on the Organ Mountains are pools where it delights 
 to wallow. Its disposition is peaceful, and, if not attacked, it will 
 neither molest man nor beast; but, when set upon by the hunter's 
 dogs, it can inflict terrible bites. ]\Ir. Heath informed me that each 
 time it seizes a dog with its teeth the flesh is cut completely from 
 the bone of the canine intruder. The flesh of the tapir is dry, and 
 is often eaten by the Indians of the interior, by whom it is hunted 
 with spears and poisoned arrows. It takes to the water, and is 
 not only a good swimmer, but appears almost amphibious, being 
 enabled to sustain itself a long time beneath the surface: hence it 
 has sometimes been called Hippopotamus terrestris. The largest 
 which Mr. Heath ever shot weighed fourteen Portuguese arrobas, 
 (about four hundred and fifty pounds,) though doubtless much larger 
 exist in the Amazonian regions. Naturalists divide the American 
 tapir into two species, — that of the lowlands and that of the moun- 
 tains, — the latter, found on eastern slopes of the Andes, diff'ering 
 but little from the one alread}" depicted and described. 
 
 The peccari is often met with in the woods of Brazil ; and this 
 little native swine is the most pugnacious fellow imaginable. 
 Neither men nor dogs inspire reverence; for he will attack both 
 with impunity. It is gregarious in its habits, and will, with its 
 companions, charge most vehemently, no matter how great the 
 odds. It is, I believe, one of the very few animals that has no 
 fear of the detonation of fire-arms. 
 
 There are many beautiful and secluded walks and rides in the 
 vicinity of Constancia, and frequently Mr. Heath accompanies his 
 guests in the wild and romantic spots which here abound. I once 
 climbed with two companions to the top of the mountain seen on the 
 right in the sketch of Constancia, (page 283;) and, though I have 
 made many ascensions among the Alps and the Apennines, I 
 
Todd's "Student's Maxual"— The "Happy Valley." 287 
 
 have never experienced so much fatigue and difficulty as on that 
 occasion. We were the first, with one exception, to stand upon 
 that height and behold the wondrous view around. I afterward 
 made a sketch of the Organ Mountains at a point some miles dis- 
 tant from Heath's, and where the peaks presented the appearance 
 of iri'egular saw-teeth; and I could then appreciate better than 
 before the Spanish and Portuguese terms (Sena and Sierra, — a saw) 
 for mountains. 
 
 The sketch alluded to (though not engraved) was made on the 
 fly-leaf of a book which I reread in the Serra dos OrgSos, and which 
 lias since circumnavigated with me the Continent of South Ame- 
 rica. That book was an English edition of Todd's ''Student's 
 Manual," — a work which delighted my boj'hood, which gave me 
 new resolution in college, and whose cheerful style, beautiful illus- 
 trations, and healthy thought cause it to be a most agreeable com- 
 panion when no longer under tutors and governors. 
 
 Mr. Heath once took our company, through a little belt of forest, 
 to a valley not more than two miles distant from Constancia. 
 From the edge of the woods we looked down upon a dell whose 
 narrow end was next to us. Bej'ond, on either side of the moun- 
 tain-spurs Avhich formed the valley, were the dark-green coffee- 
 trees and the pretty shrubs of the Chinese tea-plant. Far beneath 
 us, almost embowered amid giant bananeiras and orange-trees, we 
 perceived the red tiles of a cottage. We descended by a little 
 path to this half-hidden habitation, and were introduced to the pro- 
 prietors, two Swiss, brothers, who, after having served in the Eng- 
 lish army, retired upon a good pension, and here, in quiet, were 
 enjoj'ing life in one of the healthiest and most delightful places upon 
 the earth. The elder brother had not been to the city for eighteen 
 years. He had visited the United States when a younger man, but 
 only that portion which constitutes the noi-thern border of New 
 York. While we were conversing with them, a flock of wild par- 
 rots came swooping into the ojDen windows, screaming with delight 
 as they ate the sunflower-seeds which these benevolent old bachelors 
 had scattered for them. The edges of the co^ee-terreno (where 
 the berries are spread out to dry) were lined with large orange- 
 trees, whose boughs bent downward with their golden burden; 
 running roses had festooned themselves upon shrubs, trees, and 
 
288 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 outhouses, diffusing grateful fragrance from the thick clusters of 
 buds and blossoms; purling brooks mingled their noisj-, gleesome 
 music with the more softened cadence of a distant waterfall, and 
 the whole scene had so much of peace and felicity pervading it, 
 that the " Happy Yalley" of Dr. Johnson's imagination seemed 
 here to find its counterj)art in reality. 
 
 I paid many pleasant visits to this pretty spot, and the lovely 
 valley grew upon me by the hour. In the cottage of the two 
 Swiss I found the best current periodicals, in French, German, 
 English, and Portuguese, all of which languages they speak with 
 fluency. The contrast was, however, most striking, as we con- 
 versed about Grindenwald, Martigny, the Eiga, and the shores of 
 Lake Leman, (accurate paintings of which hung on the walls,) 
 and then looked forth upon a landscape of perennial bloom and of 
 unchanging verdure. They took me to their garden, where they 
 were, for their pleasure, cultivating moss-roses (which grow with 
 difficulty in Brazil) and vines brought from the warmer parts of 
 their native Switzerland. 
 
 During one of my visits they informed me that they had pur- 
 chased this plantation from a gentleman now residing in the State 
 of Indiana, and they were equally surprised when I informed them 
 that that State was my terre natale. They had kept up an active 
 correspondence with the former proprietor, whom they represented 
 as a lover of music and Goethe, but that since 1849 they had re- 
 ceived no intelligence from him, and they feared that he had fallen 
 victim to the cholera, which had swept through the Mississippi 
 Valle}' during the year mentioned. They desired me to write to a 
 friend to see if Mr. E. were dead or alive: accordingly, I wrote to 
 one of the professors of South Hanover College, Indiana; and my 
 correspondent ascertained that Mr. E. was still in the land of the 
 livine;. Professor T. visited him, and found Mr. E. a venerable 
 German of more than threescore years and ten; but his love for 
 music had not abated, and he was ready to battle for Goethe at a 
 moment's notice. He had not forgotten his friends in Brazil, but, 
 from some cause unknown, had not written to them ; and hence 
 their apprehensions. When, however, he heard the description of 
 the "Happy Yalley" in the sunny land of the Southern Cross, the 
 vision of its roses, golden fruits, fadeless green, and murmuring 
 
Prosaic Conclusion. 289 
 
 brooks came so vividly before him, that, aged as he was, his youth 
 seemed renewed, and he resolved to return once more to that which 
 was his first and beautiful home in the New World. I know not 
 if he carried his resolution into effect, but I can readily imagine 
 how powerfully one may be stirred up by the memory of beauty 
 which is inseparable from that peaceful dale in the Serra dus 
 Orgoes. 
 
 In July, 1865, I again visited the "Happy Yalley," at the invi- 
 tation of the elder brother, whom I found a cheerful hale man of 
 seventy-three. The younger brother spent the last year (1857) of 
 his life in an attempt to plant a colony near Theresopolis, a town 
 built since 1855 on March's old plantation. Mr. Einke never re- 
 turned to Brazil: in 1860 he visited the haunts of Goethe and 
 Schiller, and died at Lucerne, Switzerland, from a cold caught 
 while making a pilgrimage to the scenes of Schiller's '' Wilhelm 
 Tell." The " Happy Valley " has lost none of its loveliness. Long 
 may Sr. Fischer live to enjoy it! 
 
 In one of my early walks on Heath's plantation, I was very 
 much struck with a tall tree that shot up near the pathway. Its 
 trunk was a little inclined, — otherwise remarkably straight; but its 
 chief attraction was the long and venerable moss which hung from 
 the wide-spreading branches and was gently swayed by the per- 
 fume-laden morning-breeze. I sat down to sketch it, and while 
 thus engaged I was startled by a load chattering; and in an 
 instant a flock of brilliantly-colored birds, in curious flight, came 
 from the neighboring wood and alighted upon the solitary tree. 
 Though their motion on the wing was exceedingly clumsy, they 
 were most nimble as they leaped from limb to limb. They kept 
 up a continual chattering, as if they had met together to arrange 
 their plans for the day. I soon perceived that, notwithstanding 
 their brilliant plumage, which made the lofty tree seem laden with 
 large golden oranges, they were as uncouth in appearance as they 
 had been awkward in flight. Their bill was appai'ently of most dis- 
 p-'oportionate length, which did not, however, hinder their active 
 movements among the gnarled branches and pendent moss. Pre- 
 sently, having settled upon their arrangements for the day, they 
 took a unanimous vote, which was uttered in such a viva voce scream 
 that the very mountains resounded with wild, unearthly notes 
 
 19 
 
290 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 This was my first acquaintance with the toucan, which in its 
 appearance is one of the most eccentric members of the feathered 
 tribe. The feathers of the breast of the ramphastos dicolorvs are 
 of the most brilliant orange, chrome, and deep-rose colors, and 
 form a jirominent feature in the feather-dresses and ornaments of 
 the wild Indians of the interior. In the sixteenth century the 
 ''high-born" dames of the courts of Europe esteemed as their most 
 
 THE MOSS-COVERED TREE. 
 
 gorgeous and picturesque robes those trimmed with the breast- 
 feathers of the toucan. Its tongue is long, stiff, and is tij)ped and 
 edged with little, hairlike feathers. It has a singular manner of 
 taking its food. I have watched one in a tame state eating Indian 
 com; and it would take one grain in its huge bill, throw up its 
 head, elevating its long appendage, and by a series of quick jeiks 
 the grain would be tossed along the stiff tongue into the throat. 
 
The Toucan. 
 
 291 
 
 The toucan belongs to climbing-birds, and is classed with par- 
 rots, woodpeckers, and cuckoos. Its foot, provided with two toes 
 in front and two behind, is admirably adapted to the purposes of 
 climbing and clinging. Its bill is by no means solid, and might 
 be termed honey-combed in its structure, and hence is light. This 
 long and heavy -looking instrument seems to be very sensitive and 
 well supplied w4th nerves, as its ow^ner may be often seen scratch- 
 ing the curious organ with its foot. 
 
 Waterton speaks of one species of the toucan in Northern Brazil 
 (the toucans are only found in Tropical America) which ''seems to 
 suppose that its beauty can be increased by trimming his tail, 
 which undergoes the same operation as our hair in a barber's shoj); 
 only with this difference, — that it uses its own beak (which is ser- 
 rated) in lieu of a pair of scissors. As soon as his tail is full- 
 grown, he begins about an inch 
 from the extremity of the two 
 longest feathers in it, and cuts 
 away the web on both sides of 
 the shaft, making a gap about 
 an inch long: both male and 
 female adorn their tails in this 
 maxiner, which gives them a re- 
 markable appearance amongst 
 all other birds." 
 
 The toucan is a most grotesque 
 specimen of ornithology, and the 
 Aracari, (Pteroglossus,) with his 
 huge bill and goggle-eyes, ap- 
 pears like a melancholy Jaquea, 
 or a spectacled German idealist, 
 
 who has banished himself far from the haunts of men, to speculate 
 on the miseries of human nature and the exalted excellence of the 
 
 THE TOUCAN. 
 
 ' "populous solitude of bees and birds 
 
 And fairy-form'd and many-color'd things." 
 
 The student of natural history can find much to gratify him in 
 the Organ Mountains. There are many beautifully-colored snakes, 
 (only a few of which are very venomous,) a vast variety of lizards, 
 
292 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 curious frogs and toads, — as some one has remarked, — from the 
 small tree-kind, not more than an inch long, to those marsh ones 
 which are nearly' large enough to fill a hat. Beautiful butterflies 
 vie with the flowers which from time to time they taste, or their 
 brilliant wings are reflected from the small pools on whose banks 
 they alight in countless numbers. Large wasp-nests as well as 
 tropical leaves adorn the branches of trees. In some places, beetles 
 like gems attach themselves to the foliage and flowers of low 
 shrubs, and at night the air is liglited up with fire-flies which 
 Gardner compares, in brilliancy, to "stars that have fallen from 
 the finnament and are floating about without a resting-place." 
 
 One evening I walked from Ileath's toward the "Happy Yalley," 
 but, not prolonging my promenade far in that direction, I entered 
 a forest and pursued my way to the edge of a pi*ecipice, or rather 
 a crater-like hollow whose centre was a thousand feet below me 
 and whose sides were covered with trees. The night was dark, 
 and it had fallen so suddenly after the brief twilight, that, so far as 
 anticipation was concerned, I was unprepared for it. Before re- 
 tracing my steps I stood for a few moments looking down into the 
 Cimmerian blackness of the gulf beneath me; and, while thus 
 gazing, a luminous mass seemed to start from the \evy centre. I 
 watched it as it floated up, revealing, in its slow flight, the long 
 leaves of the Euterpe edulis and the minuter foliage of other trees. 
 It came directly toward me, lighting up the gloom around with its 
 three luminosities, which I could now distinctly see. This was the 
 pyrophorus noctilucus, so well known to every traveller in the 
 Antilles and in Tropical America. It is of an obscure, blackish 
 brown, and the body is everywhere covered with a short, light- 
 brown pubescence. When it walks or is at rest, the principal light 
 it emits issues from the two yellow tubercles; but, when the wings 
 are expanded in the act of flight, another luminous spot is dis- 
 closed in the hinder part of the abdomen. These luminosities — sup- 
 posed to be phosphoric in their composition — are so considerable 
 that the fire-fly is often employed in the countries where it prevails 
 as a substitute for artificial light. 
 
 In the mountains of Tijuca I have read the finest print of "Har- 
 per's Magazine" by the light of one of these natural lamps placed 
 under a common glass tumbler, and with distinctness I could tell 
 
The Fire-Fly and the Iguana. 293 
 
 the hour of the night, and discern the very small figures which 
 marked the seconds of a little Swiss watch. The Indians formerly 
 used them instead of flambeaux in their hunting and fishing expedi- 
 tions; and when travelling in the night the}' are accustomed to 
 fasten them to their feet and hands. In some parts of the tropics 
 they are used by the senhoritas for adorning their tresses, or their 
 robes, by fastening them within a thin gauze-work; and through 
 them their bearers become indeed "bright particular stars." It 
 was of this fire-fly (which resembles, in every thing but color, the 
 "snapping-bug" of the Mississippi Valley) that Mr. Prescott, in his 
 "Conquest of Mexico," narrates the terror which they inspired in 
 the Spaniards in 1520. "The air was filled with 'cocuyos,' 
 {pyrophorus noctilucus,) a species of large beetle which emits an 
 intense phosphoric light fi'om its body, strong 
 enough to enable one to read by it. These 
 wandering fires, seen in the darkness of the 
 night, were converted by the besieged into an 
 army with matchlocks." Such is the report 
 of an eye-witness, — old Bernal Diaz. the brilliant fire-fly. 
 
 In one of my rides toward Cant a Gallo, I 
 saw in the road the large lizard called the iguana. There is nothing 
 to me disgusting in this clean-looking reptile, whose skin, composed 
 of bright, small scales, resembles the finest bead- work. I had often 
 seen them at Rio spitted and hawked about the city; for the flesh 
 is esteemed a great delicacy, — resembling in its appearance and 
 taste that bonne bouche for epicures, a frog's hind-leg. The usual pic- 
 tures of the iguana do not render it full justice; they represent it 
 as horrid in appearance as the imaginary baleful-breathed, javelin- 
 tongued dragon fi-om which good St. George delivered so many 
 devoted virgins. The iguana is from three to five feet in length, 
 and is oviparous. A lady member of my family possessed cue 
 which was a great favorite, and she has kindly furnished me with 
 some notes on her pet. I insert them verbatim. 
 
 " Pedro [the iguana] aff'orded me much amusement. From his 
 close resemblance to the snake-tribe, it was difiicult for strangers 
 to rid their mind of the impression that he was venomous. Such 
 is not the case with iguanas. Their only means of defence is their 
 very pow<irful tail; and a sportsman told me that he has had a 
 
294 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 "dog's ribs laid bare by a stroke of an iguana's tail. My poor 
 pet, however, was not warlike, having been long in captivity. He 
 was given me as a 'Christmas-box' by a friend, and soon became 
 tame enough to go at liberty. He was about three feet long, and 
 subsisted upon raw meat, milk, and bananas. He had a basket in 
 my room, and when he felt the weather cool would take refuge 
 between the mattresses of my bed. There, in the morning, he 
 would be found in all possible comfort. One evening we missed him 
 from all his usual hiding-places, and reluctantly made up our minds 
 that he was lost; but, on rising in the morning, two inches of his 
 tail hanging out of the pillow-case told where he had passed a 
 snug night I My little Spanish poodle and he were sworn foes. 
 The moment Chico made his appearance, he would dash forward to 
 bite Pedro; but Chico thought, with many others, that 'the better 
 part of valor is discretion.' So he made off from the iguana as 
 fast as his funny legs could carry him. Then Pedro waddled slowly 
 back to the sunny spot on the floor and closed his eyes for a nap. 
 When the winter (a winter like the latter part of a Northern May) 
 began, he became nearly torpid, and remained without eating for 
 four months. He would now and then sun himself, but soon re- 
 turned to his blanket. 
 
 "I frequently took him out on my ai^m, and he was often spe- 
 cially invited; but I cannot say that he was much caressed. It 
 was in vain that I expatiated on his beautiful bead-like spots of 
 black and white, on his bright jewel eyes and elegant claws. 
 
 They admired, but 
 _-_ kept their distance. 1 
 
 had a sort of malicious 
 pleasure in putting 
 him suddenly down at 
 the feet of the stronger 
 sex, and I have seen 
 him elicit from naval 
 officers more symp- 
 toms of terror than 
 "would have been 
 drawn forth by an enemy's bi'oadside or a lee shore. But, alas 
 for the 'duration of lovely things I' Dui'ing the summer-months 
 
 THE IGUANA. 
 
Tkavelling Expenses. 295 
 
 he felt his old forest-spirit strong within him, and he often sallied 
 forth in the beautiful paths of the Gloria. On one of these occa- 
 sions he met a marauding Frenchman. Pedro, the caressed by me 
 and the feai-ed by others, knew no terror. The ruflSan struck him 
 to the earth. It was in vain that a little daughter of Consul B. tried 
 to save him b}' crying, ^11 est a Madame:' another blow fractured 
 his skull I My servant ran up only in time to save his body from 
 an ignominious stew-pan; but life was extinct. The assassin fled, 
 and Eose came back with my poor pet's corpse. On my return he 
 was presented to view with his long forked tongue depending from 
 his mouth. He was sent, wrapped in black crape, to a neighbor 
 who delighted in fricasseed lizards, but who, having seen him 
 petted and caressed, could not find appetite to eat him ! 
 
 " Thus ended the career of poor Pedro, after a life of pleasant 
 captivity; and perhaps it might be said of him, as of many others, 
 *He was more feared than loved!' " 
 
 From Constancia to Nova Fribourgo, or Morro Queimado, is a 
 mountain and forest path, which is sometimes taken by travellers 
 who wish to visit the villa named above. The route most frequently 
 traversed is by steamboat from Eio de Janeiro, on the bay as far as 
 the Macacu Kiver, and up this stream to the Engenho de Sampaio. 
 Thence we may go by carriage or mule-back to the floiu-ishing 
 town of Porto das Caixas, which is the general rendezvous for 
 the troops of mules that bring coffee and sugars from the Swiss 
 colonies of Nova Fribourgo and Canta Gallo and a large section 
 of the neighboring country. Here are also debarked the good^ 
 which return from the capital in exchange for produce. 
 
 In addition to its commercial importance, it is distinguished as 
 the family-residence of the Visconde de Itaborahy, (Senhor Joaquim 
 Jose Eodrigues Torres.) The traveller will here find a very goo I 
 hospedaria, (inn,) kept by a Frenchman, whose prices, though not so 
 moderate as in the interior of the country, may, with other expenses, 
 1)0 interesting to voyageurs who may come after me. I find in my 
 note-book the following entry for myself and companion: — 
 
 "Hospedaria de M. Boulanger. — Two dinners, two candles, two 
 beds, coffee for two, two breakfasts, and the stabling of two mules, 
 — 7$200," (equal to about 'sixteen English shillings.) 
 
 At the excellent boarding-house of Mr. Lowenroth, at Nova 
 
296 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Fribourgo, you pay 2$ (one dollar) per diem for every thing. At 
 Canta Gallo, thirty miles farther in the interior, I paid 6$000 (thir- 
 teen and sixpence English) per diem, for myself, guide, and three 
 mules. At Pedro Schott's, (a regular Tete noire chalet of rude con- 
 struction,) situated in a wild, secluded spot half-way between the 
 bay and Nova Fribourgo, for two dinners, two beds, two lights, and 
 the stabling of two mules, — 4$500, (ten shillings twoi)ence.) At 
 Constancia and at Petropolis you pay 4$000 (nine shillings) per 
 diem, the price of a first-class hotel in the United States. It must 
 be remarked, however, that wine is never extra, and, as this is ob- 
 tained at a cheap rate direct from Lisbon and Oporto, it is placed 
 uj)on every table. On going into the fertile province of Minas- 
 Geraes, I found that for m^'self and company we were charged at 
 Petropolis 16$000, (nearly nine dollars,) and the next night at a 
 little inn called Eibeirao we paid for the same accommodations 
 4$000, (two dollars and twenty cents.) Upon the sea-coast I have 
 always found the living expensive to the foreigner. Farther in the 
 interior the prices diminish. At the Ponta do Jundiahi, in the pro- 
 vince of S. Paulo, dinner for myself and guide, and feed for three 
 animals, the price was but 1$500 (three shillings and fivepeuce Eng- 
 lish.) The common Brazilian travels at a rate one-fourth cheaper 
 than either the North American or the European. He rarely stops 
 at the hospedaria, but, when he considers the day's journey ended, 
 whether at two o'clock p.m. or six p.m., he rides under a rancho, 
 gives a few handfuls of milho (maize) to his mule, and afterward 
 turns him out to pasture. He then — if he has no servant with him 
 — joins with others occupying the same rancho, smdfeijoes, and came 
 secca, greased with a little toucinho, and well stiffened with farinha 
 de mandioca, form a substantial supper, which has as an adjunct 
 coffee, red Lisbon, or water from the running brook. I have found 
 sleep as sweet on a raw hide spread in the dust of a rancho as in 
 the soft bed of the best New York hotel. The ranchos (mere tile- 
 covered sheds) are found all over the country, and, like the cara- 
 vanserais of the East, are often erected by the authorities; but in 
 many instances they have been built by some vendeiro, who charges 
 nothing for the shelter thus afforded to the tropeiros and the thou- 
 sands of sacks of coffee and sugar on their way to the seaboard 
 marts. The vendeiro, however, does not count without his host, for 
 
N'ovA Fribourgo and Canta Gallo. 297 
 
 troupeiros need feijoes, carne, farinha, cachaga, and coffee for them- 
 eelves, and milho for their mules. Then an extra girth, a saddle- 
 blanket, a pointed knife, and an iron spur, are often wanted; and 
 the Portuguese vendeiro thus accumulates property, and in time 
 becomes a fazendeiro, but does not give up the shop, which always 
 brings him a good return. 
 
 Those who intend travelling long journeys in Brazil would do 
 well to purchase their own mules. Horses and mules (the latter 
 are much more serviceable) maybe hired at the rate of from 5$000 
 to lOSOOO (eleven to twenty-two English shillings) for each fifty 
 miles, or for a certain sum the trip. 
 
 The coffee-plantations of the elevated uplands of Nova Fri- 
 bourgo and Canta Gallo rank among the best in the j)rovince of Rio 
 de Janeiro: many of them are owned by Swiss and Frenchmen 
 who came to Brazil at the invitation of Dom Joao VI., in 1820; but 
 the colony of which they formed a part fell through, and the most 
 energetic men have become proprietors. The Baron of New Fri- 
 bourg has immense plantations in the vicinity of N. Fribourgo, 
 where he not only employs slaves, but many emigrants from Por- 
 tugal, the Azores, and Madeira. His residence in the viUa, whence 
 he derives his title is a large mansion built in good taste. A Pro- 
 testant chapel of small dimensions is presided over by an old Lutheran 
 clergyman who came to Brazil with the early German colonists. 
 I could, however, perceive that there was but little Christian 
 vitality among this people. Lutherans of the old Church-and- 
 State School are among the very last men to propagate the gospel. 
 There is more hope of some of the new pastors in the more recently- 
 established German colonies. 
 
 At Nova Fi'ibourgo are a number of excellent schools, the chief 
 of which is the Listituto Collegial of Mr. John H. Freese. This 
 gentleman has devoted many years to instruction in this cool and 
 healthful spot, and many hundred young Fluminenses have here 
 received an education in English and French, as well as in the 
 Portuguese language. I have met with the scholars of ]\Ir. Freese 
 in different parts of the Empire, and they always manifested a 
 general intelligence beyond the alumni of other similar institutions. 
 His Nocoes Geraes dcerca da Educagdo da Mocidade Brazileira show 
 that he has given much attention to the subject of education. 
 
L'ys 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Between X. Fribourgo and Canta Gallo the scenery is remarkably 
 Alpine, and such is the cultivation that one is readily reminded of 
 the sweet valleys of Switzerland. In the neighborhood of Canta 
 Gallo I found a number of intelligent German, Swiss, and French 
 gentlemen, whose coffee-plantations bring them most lucrative 
 incomes. I was not a little surprised at a kind offer of a German, 
 
 NEAR THE VILLAGE OF NOVA FRIBOURGO. 
 
 who manifested the beginning of his hospitality by asking me if I 
 would not take ein grog, and was as astonished at my refusal as I 
 had been at his offering. 
 
 At the plantation-house of ]\Ii\ D., a Swiss from Zurich, I was 
 surrounded by many reminiscences of his fatherland; and when I 
 gazed upon his finely-cultivated fields, which stretched before ^is 
 mansion, I could almost believe myself in some of the gi-een vales 
 of the Oberland, large paintings of which graced the walls of the 
 
Extent of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. 299 
 
 salon. The illusion was rendered more complete when night had 
 hidden every palm-tree and flowering cactus, and I heard only the 
 sounds of the French and German languages, or from the piano 
 the simple notes of the Hanz des Vaches, sweet nocturnes, and the 
 majestic strains of Mendelssohn and Beethoven. [ could scarcely 
 believe myself a hundred miles in the interior of Brazil. I, how- 
 ever, realized that I was not in the land of Tell when I returned 
 to Canta Gallo preceded by a negro in livery, who bore (on horse- 
 back) a flaming torch, whose flashes of light revealed overhanging 
 mimosas, bignonias, and loug, bending bamboos. 
 
 The old hotel-keeper at Canta Gallo is a tall Frenchman who 
 was one of the body-guard of Napoleon I., which fact his mellifluous 
 Frangais, as well as rude fresco-paintings, soon inform you. 
 
 In returning from this excursion, there is a magnificent view of 
 the whole bay, extending as it does within its mountain-walls One 
 hundred miles in circumference. The most important ports upon 
 the borders of this ba}^ are Maje, Piedade, Porto da Estrella, and 
 Iguassu. At these several places great quantities of produce are 
 delivered by troops from the interior and embarked in steamers 
 and fulluas for the capital. 
 
 A glance at the map shows the Bay of Rio de Janeiro to 
 contain numerous islands, of various form and extent. Ilha do 
 Governador, or Governor's Island, is much the largest, measuring 
 twelve miles from east to west. Most of these islands are inha- 
 bited, and under tolerable cultivation. If any thing can add to 
 the imposing scenery of this magnificent bay, it is the vast number 
 of small vessels that are seen constantly traversing it, dotting the 
 green surface of the water with their whitened sails. From morn- 
 ing to evening may be seen, plying in every direction, open and 
 covered boats, canoes, lanchas, falluas, and smacks. 
 
 One of the most attractive residences for the people of Rio 
 during the hot season is the newly -formed colony of Petropolis, 
 situated about three thousand feet above the level of the sea. An 
 agreeable steamboat-transit amid the picturesque islands brings 
 you to Maua, the terminus of the first railroad formed in Brazil, 
 and for which the Empire is indebted to the enterprise of that 
 enlightened and patriotic Brazilian, Evangelista Ireneo da Souza, 
 who, on the opening of this railway was created Baron of Maua by 
 
300 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the Emperor. The road is about ten miles long, and leads to the 
 foot of the mountains, where carriages, each drawn by four mules, 
 receive the travellers. The ascent is by an excellent road, which 
 was built by the Government at an enormous expense, and reminds 
 one of the Simplon route. In some parts the side of the moun- 
 tain is so steep that three Avindings are compressed into a space 
 small enough to allow of your being heard as you speak to the 
 persons in the carriages going the opposite direction. When you 
 reach the summit, befoi-e descending into the valle}^ in which 
 stands the town, a magnificent prospect opens before you. All the 
 bay and city of Eio, with the plains of Maua, across which lies the 
 diminutive railroad, are mapj)ed out below. 
 
 In the year 1837, Dr. Gardner writes, " We passed through the 
 small, miserable village of Corrego Secco." This is now Petro- 
 polis. All the neighboring land was at an earlier date obtained by 
 the Emperor D. Pedro I. with a view to forming a German colon3\ 
 This design was interrupted by his abdication, but has been car- 
 ried out by his son, the present Emperor. It now contains ten 
 thousand inhabitants, and on every side are beautiful residences 
 of wealthy Eio families who resort thither during the summer. 
 Nothing can exceed the beauty of the vicinity. Eoads, bordered 
 by villas, stretch away from the centre, between hills still covered 
 with virgin forest. Many of these, inhabited by the German 
 colonists, bear the name of places in Fatherland, and the mind is 
 pleasantly transported to scenes in the Old World. The highroad 
 to the mining-district is thi-ough Peti'opolis, and troops of niules, 
 laden with coffee, sugar, and sometimes gold, are perpetually pass- 
 ing down to the head of the bay, where their loads are transferred 
 to falluas and steamers to be transported to the city. 
 
 The palace of the Emperor stands in the centre of the town, and 
 when finished and surrounded by cultivated grounds, will present 
 a beautiful appearance. Small streams intersect the streets and are 
 crossed by bridges, adding much to the singular aspect of the place 
 
 There are Eoman Catholic and Lutheran churches, large hotels, 
 and many shops. Here the Baron de Maua had a mansion plea 
 santly situated at the meeting of tAVO mountain-brooks. Several 
 of the diplomatic corps and other foreigners have villas here and 
 there, — the English generally seeking the heights 
 
Petropolis, the Mountain-City. 
 
 hOl 
 
 The colonists belong to a low class of Germans, and brought 
 with them few arts and but little education. It seems difficult in 
 any tropical climate to prevent the morals and industry of emi- 
 grants fi'om deteriorating, and this is particularly to be observed 
 in slave-countries. The degraded colonist, while setting himself 
 above the African, engrafts the vices of the latter upon the 
 European stock, and thus sinks to a lower grade than the negro. 
 The German in Brazil has the want of a sound moral people sur- 
 rounding him, to sustain and elevate him: therefore it is no marvel 
 if he sink lower and lower in the scale of civilization. Much, 
 however, is being done for the Germans of Petropolis. The 
 clergyman, as the pastor of the church and superintendent of the 
 schools, takes a deep interest in the welfare of his countrymen 
 both spiritually and intellectually. 
 
 SWISS VALLEY, NEAR PETROPOLIS. 
 
 It is not possible to obtain a view of the entire town of Petro- 
 polis at one glance, because it is scattered in various valleys 
 among the hills. More rain falls here than in Eio, and the tiny 
 rivulets often become rushing streams, and the mule-troops labor 
 on through miles of mud. This moisture keeps the air cool and 
 fi-eshens the flowers that cluster round the white-walled cottages 
 which gleam from their dark-green background. The accompany- 
 
302 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 mg view is taken in the Swiss valley, where, as you listen to tht 
 German accents of the villagers, fancy might induce you to believe 
 yourself in Europe, did not the waving palm and rustling banana 
 remind you that you dwelt under a tropic sun. 
 
 Petropolis is annually becoming of greater importance. Its 
 salubrious and delightful climate will make it a large and fashion- 
 able resort for the Capital of the Empire, and perhaps the day is 
 not distant when it will become the second city in the province. It 
 stands at the entrance to the fertile province of Minas-Geraes, and, 
 should some plan be devised for constructing a railway up the 
 mountains, its growth will be most rapid. If the Baron of Maun 
 would pay a visit to the United States and examine the Pennsyl- 
 vania railways, or the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, he ma}' be 
 encouraged to persevere. Professor Agassiz considers the engi- 
 neering triumphs of the Pedro IT. Railway of the first rank in the 
 world. The road under President Ottoni is still being pushed into 
 the interior. The Uniao and Industria turnjiike is unique in 
 South America. It begins at Petropolis, and extends to Juiz de 
 Fora in Minas-Geraes, and is traversed by stage-coaches and ordi- 
 nary freight- wagons. Srs. Lage and Joao Baptista Fonseca are 
 the chief officials of the UniiXo and Industria road. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — Since this chapter was written, some of the most important 
 measures for developing the resources of Brazil have been carried out, at an 
 enormous expense, but which day by day are sliowing tlieir results. During the 
 cabinet of the late Marquis de Paranii, Sr. Pedreira do Coutto Ferraz, Minister 
 of the Empire, contracted for the construction of the Pedro II. Railroad ; for that 
 of the great macadamized road called the Uniao e Industria; and for the Canta- 
 Gallo Railway, now twenty-five miles long. The first section of the Pedro II. 
 Railway was opened in 1857. The contract then passed from English into Ame- 
 rican hands, Messrs. Roberts, Harvey, and Harrah. Major Ellison, of Massachu- 
 Betts, was the chief engineer of the road. The trains now run to tlic Ponto 
 Desengano, on the Parahyba River. The great tunnel which terminates near 
 Mendes was opened in Decembei", 18G5. The Pedro II. Railway has now passed 
 into the hands of the Brazilian Government, and Mr. William Ellison is engineer- 
 in-chicf. Mr. Jacob Humbird and Sr. Carneiro Leao are principal contractors. 
 
CHAPTEK XYI. 
 
 PKEPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE TO THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES THE PASSEN- 
 GERS UBATUBA EAGERNESS TO OBTAIN BIBLES THE ROUTINE ON BOARD — 
 
 ABORIGINAL NAMES SAN SEBASTIAN AND MIDSHIPMAN WILBERFORCE — SANTOS 
 
 BRAZILIANS AT DINNER INCORRECT JUDGMENT OF FOREIGNERS S. VINCENTE 
 
 ORDER OF EXERCISES MY CIGAR PARANAGUA H.B.M. "CORMORANT" AND THE 
 
 SLAVERS MUTABILITY OF MAPS — RUSSIAN VESSELS IN LIMBO — THE PRIMA DONNA 
 
 AN ENGLISH ENGINEER ARRIVE AT SAN FRANCISCO DO SUL. 
 
 Although I had resided several years in the Empire, I had never 
 visited its Southern provinces. In June, 1855, duty as well as 
 inclination gave me the privilege which I had so long desired. 
 
 Having been kindly provided by Brazilian, German, and English 
 friends at Eio with letters of introduction, and being particularly 
 fortified by a strong carta de recommendagdo from the venerable 
 Senator Vergueiro, (one of the last of the constitutional patriots,) 
 I had every facility for seeing Southern Brazil to advantage. 
 
 Wishing to have ample leisure, I procured my passport, several 
 days before my departure, at the proper bureau. One of the first 
 lessons learned by the traveller in Brazil is patience and conformity 
 to all existing formalities. No matter how absurd the regulation, 
 as, for instance, that which requires one to obtain a passport in 
 leaving the city of Eio de Janeiro for the provinces, (where it is 
 never demanded,) you must submit. Protestations only bring a 
 shrug of the shoulders from the snuff-taking official, and woe be to 
 you if the hour for closing the bureau slips around before 3'ou have 
 obtained the necessary document. To be perfectly en regie, the 
 departing citizen or stranger must have his name registered either 
 in the custom-house or printed in some public .journal three days 
 before his passport is granted, in order that his creditors may have 
 an opportunity of knowing his movements. But the passport sys- 
 tem, as well as quarantines, never prevented the adit or exit of 
 
 rogues or pestilence. 
 
 303 
 
304 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 In addition to tliis, I had prepared, the day before, my baggage, 
 consisting 'of a trunk and a number of hxrge boxes of books, and 
 I had made arrangements with an under-clerk of a mercantile house 
 to have these put on the steamer at an early hour. Believing 
 myself perfectly secure, I was busily engaged in writing up to 
 within half an hour of tho time of departure. On entering the 
 mercantile establishment referred to, I found that my baggage was 
 still quietly resting where I had left it the day previous. There 
 was just time to hurry it down to the Consulado in a cart. Off wo 
 started, and, on reaching this place, we went through a set of 
 formalities in shipping the boxes; then, taking a boat, (for vessels 
 there do not lie in docks,) we arrived at the steamer, and had the 
 mortification to be informed by the Brazilian second mate that the 
 objects of our haste could not be received on board at that hour 
 without a special permit from the office of the steamer, which 
 was in a street one mile distant from the Consulado. 
 
 The blacks rowed me quickly to the shore, where I jumped into 
 a tilbury and rattled through the streets to the much-coveted 
 bureau of the Southern Steam-Packet Company. I obtained the 
 permit, and, with as great celerity in returning as in coming, I was 
 soon on board. I leave to the reader to judge how much easier 
 and more reasonable the whole matter would have been in England 
 or the United States, even if blame were to be attached to me for 
 not attending to my own luggage and seeing it fairly on the 
 steamer the day before. 
 
 Once on boai'd, I found that there had been no need of my great 
 fretting, for the engine snorted and hissed more than an hour 
 before we left the moorings. Our passports were all examined by 
 the police-officer, and our personal identities were verified by the 
 agent of the packet, in oi-der to discover if all the passengers had 
 paid their fare: the captain took his stand upon the wheel-house, 
 and to his "Small turn ahead" we moved through the assembled 
 shipping of the loading, discharging, and man-of-war anchorages, 
 until a "Stop her" brought us under the guns of Villogagnon. 
 Here we received the last visit of the agent, and then the Govern- 
 ment officials boarded us to see that all was right and you 
 
 imagine that we steamed out of the bay, in which imagination you 
 would be egregiously mistaken; for we lay before Villegagnon for 
 
Ubatuba. 305 
 
 two mortal hours, tossing up and down in a delightful swell Avhich 
 rolled in directly from the blue Atlantic. Something had been left 
 behind by the captain's wife, which (of more value than a band- 
 box) proved to have been a large package of money "expressed" 
 to the South ; and hence our delay. 
 
 It was after five o'clock when we passed the giant sentinels of 
 the Sugar-Loaf and Santa Cruz. The passengers, with the excep- 
 tion of myself, a Frenchman, and a Lombard, were either Bra- 
 zilians or Portuguese. The captain, though a Baltimorean, had 
 renounced his allegiance to the United States, and had been natu- 
 ralized in Brazil. Night soon came on, and a heavy rolling sea 
 compelled me to take to my berth, — not, however, before I had seen 
 the Brazilians horribly sea-sick; and all of them have such a bilious 
 look that one would anticipate for them an unusual degree of suf- 
 fering upon the "vasty deep." 
 
 Early the next morning I could see from my cabin-window the 
 mountains of the coast. The same magnificent scenery which so 
 delights the traveller in the vicinity of Eio de Janeiro is reproduced 
 all the way to Eio Grande do Sul, only the mountains vary in form, 
 and in some places the palm-trees are more luxuriant. AVhen I 
 came upon deck, we wei*e just entering the beautiful Bay of Ubatuba. 
 Two vessels were riding at anchor; and, for a small place, there is 
 considerable trade in coffee, which is brought down from the 
 interior and thence shipped to Eio. 
 
 The village of Ubatuba stretches along a circular beach, and its 
 bright houses are thrown out in prominent relief by the verdant 
 mountains that lift themselves in the background. The storm had 
 ceased ; and I rarely have witnessed a lovelier scene than was pre- 
 sented by this Southern landscape. The captain, seeing the calm- 
 ness of the water, had the good sense, at this juncture, to invite 
 the passengers to a most substantial breakfast, for which each one 
 on board had been fully prepared by his night's tribute paid to tl e 
 angry waves. 
 
 Every eye beamed with pleasure (doubtless the breakfast had ha I 
 
 something to do with it) as the vision of beauty before us came in 
 
 review. Good-nature and kindness is a predominant chai-acteristic 
 
 of the Brazilian; but even a churl would have been alegre under 
 
 our present circumstances. 
 
 20 
 
306 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 We only exchanged mails and took in oranges, (a hundred of the 
 most luscious could be purchased for an English threepence,) and, 
 bidding farewell to Ubatuba, in a short time we were sailing close 
 to woody islands or the green shore. The sea was smooth, the 
 passengers were all upon deck, and the best of feeling pervaded the 
 whole company. Wishing to profit b}^ the occasion, I descended 
 to my trunk and brought up a Portuguese Bible, which I offered 
 to a passenger on the conditions laid down in the rules of the 
 American Bible Society. Only a few moments elapsed ere I had 
 disposed of all the volumes of the Sacred Word which were at my 
 convenience, and on every side my fellow-voyagers were reading 
 with eagerness a book they had never seen before.. From time to 
 time I was called on for explanations, and I was renewedly con- 
 vinced of the freedom from bigotry which is a distinguishing nega- 
 tive quality of the Brazilians. An officer of the Imperial navy had 
 just returned from the Brazilian squadron at the river Plate, and, 
 in seeking the bosom of his family at Santos, wished the Scrip- 
 tures as a present for his children, and, when purchasing them, 
 he remarked, "Though I am a man forty-five years of age, I have 
 never before seen A Santa Biblia in a language which I could 
 understand." 
 
 Ubatuba differs in a certain respect from a number of neigh- 
 boring towns, inasmuch as it rejoices in one of the euphonious 
 aboriginal terms which were found throughout the country at its 
 discovery. Not many leagues from this village is the large town of 
 Angra dos Reis and the island denominated Ilha Grande dos Magos, 
 which names were given by Martin Affonso de Souza. Although 
 several of these harbors and islands had been previously discovered 
 and probably named, yet — owing to the circumstance that Souza 
 became an actual settler, combined with the fact that in following 
 the Eoman calendar he flattered the peculiar prejudices of his 
 countrymen — the names imposed by him have alone remained to 
 posterity. The 6th day of January, designated in English as that of 
 the Epiphany, is termed, in Portuguese, Dia dos Beis Magos, (Day 
 of the Kings or Eoyal Magi.) The island of S. Sebastian and the 
 port of S. Vincente were named, in like manner, on the 20th and 
 22d days of the same month. The Indian names of Brazilian 
 towns are among some of the most flowing and fine-sounding 
 
Midshipman Wilberfoece and the Mosquitos. 307 
 
 found in any language : — as Itaparica, Pindamonhangaba, InJwmerim, 
 Gua?'atingetd, Parahiba and its diminutive Parahibuna, &c., — the 
 h in each case non est litera. 
 
 It was only a few hours' run from TJbatuba to our next stopping- 
 place. We were constantly passing one of the boldest and most 
 picturesque coasts that I have ever seen. Near the island and the 
 town of San Sebastian, (the latter on terra firma,) I was continually 
 reminded of the banks of the Ehine and of the lake and mountain 
 scenery of Switzerland, though here perpetual verdure crowns cliif 
 and crag, and the valleys were covered with plantations of coffee 
 and sugar, and the orange-groves were prodigal of their golden 
 fruit. The shore was steep and high, and well-wooded promon- 
 tories stood out with minute distinctness in the bright, pure atmo- 
 sphere. The island of San Sebastian is only separated by a naiTOw 
 strait from the mainland, and it seemed to me, as I gazed upon it, 
 like one of the fabled Hesperides. The steep rocky sides of its 
 mountain-ridge are interspersed with belts of forest, from whose 
 thick-foliaged bosom cascades of Alpine magnitude dashed their 
 foamin<r treasures hundreds of feet below. 
 
 It was in a hamlet on this romantic island that Wilberforee — 
 a rollicking, fun-loving Eng- 
 lish midshipman — says he 
 saw the traces of Portuguese 
 hands in a neat white church 
 which rose from the midst 
 of mud houses. "The anti- 
 quity of the building," ho 
 writes, "was not the solo 
 proof of its origin. The pre- 
 sence of a church is in itself 
 sufficient to show whether 
 Portuguese or Brazilians 
 have founded the village. 
 It is said that the first build- 
 ing that Portuguese settlers 
 erect is a church : the first 
 
 that Brazilians build is a grog-shop." And then he significantly 
 adds, "We order these things better in England, and build both at 
 
 THE ROADSIDE VENDA. 
 
308 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the same time." I cannot say that the remarks of Midshipman 
 Wilberforce are altogether exact j for it is a fact that the Brazilians 
 already have too many churches for the priests, and also that they 
 do commence the nucleus of their village by a venda, which not 
 only serves as a drinking-house, hut as a 
 place for lodging and eating. The Brazilians 
 are a temperate people, as I have already 
 observed, and are not given to drunkenness 
 as the Northern nations; therefore "grog- 
 shop" is not the correct term to express the 
 foundation of a Brazilian settlement. Eeli- 
 gion and the venda are not always insepa- 
 rable; for you will frequently find a little 
 cross erected near its entrance, and some- 
 times an alms-box affixed to the door, on 
 which is painted ''Avhite souls and black" 
 lifting up from the flames of purgatory hands 
 of supplication ; and hard must te the heart 
 that can resist the piteous spectacle. 
 
 The midshipman is, however, entirely just in his observations on 
 mosquitos and the very vicious sand-flies called borruchudos. Both 
 his indignation and poetry arise at the trouble they gave him; for 
 he eloquently bursts forth in the following : — "Any one who should 
 write an ode to Brazilian scenery [near San Sebastian] would 
 probably begin, — 
 
 " ' Ye mountains, on whose woody heights 
 The greedy borruchudo bites ; 
 Ye forests, in whose tangled mazes 
 The dire mosquitos sting like blazes !' — 
 
 THE ALMS-BOX. 
 
 and so on to the end of the canto. Things that would be poetical 
 in themselves are sadly spoiled by the introduction of such utili- 
 tarian adjuncts as mosquitos. Greedy animals ! I am ashamed 
 of you. Cannot you once forego your dinner and feast your mind 
 with the poetry of the landscape ?" 
 
 San Sebastian is twelve or fourteen miles long, and of nearly 
 equal width. It is well cultivated and somewhat populous. Like 
 riha Grande, it was a rendezvous for vessels engaged in the slave- 
 
Santos. 309 
 
 trade. Sach craft had great facilities for landing their cargoes of 
 human beings at these and contiguous points; and if they did not 
 choose to go into the harbor of Eio to refit, they could be furnished 
 at this place with the requisite papers for another voyage. For no 
 other object was the vice-consulate of Portugal established in the 
 villa opposite. 
 
 The sun was setting as our little steamer issued from the Bay of 
 S. Sebastian, and before daylight was gone we neared the Alcatra- 
 zes, two rocky islands of curious shape, conspicuous objects well 
 known to all travelled Paulistas. 
 
 Before retiring to my cabin I had an interesting conversation 
 with a Portuguese who was proud of his little native peninsular 
 kingdom, and boasted of her great deeds and past prowess, but 
 spoke not of her present glory. The Lombard passenger enter- 
 tained me with sketches of the Milanese revolt of 1848, and with 
 warlike chansons, in which the name of Carlo Alberto II Ee di 
 Sardegna was ever prominent. 
 
 The next morning we arrived at Santos, situated a few miles up 
 a river of the same name, which is the chief port of the flourishing 
 province of St. Paul's. Here I landed my two boxes intended for 
 the interior, and which 1 hoped would reach their destination 
 before I returned to Santos, so that I could ride swiftly after them 
 and not be delayed as I had been in similar excursions in the rural 
 part of the province of Eio de Janeiro. I had some difficulty with 
 the custom-house; and no one but strangers who have gone 
 through this experience in Brazil can imagine the various annoy- 
 ances to which every species of goods is subjected. There are 
 no objections to the books because they are Bibles, but you must 
 pay duty (small, it is true) a second time upon them. 1 thought 
 because I had paid duties once at Eio that that was sufficient; but 
 here they have a provincial tariff from which no one is exempt. I 
 had letters from Senator Vergueiro to his two sons, who have a 
 mercantile house here, and also the father and the sons have im- 
 mense plantations in the interior; and it was to one of these 
 plantations that I determined to go, and, while doing good, be 
 enabled to see for myself the condition of the thousand European 
 colonists which the enterprising Yergueiros have under their 
 charu'e. 
 
SIO Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Senhor Jose Vergueiro, the principal of the Santos house^ (Ver- 
 gueiro & Filhos,) was absent, and his brother, the fourth son of 
 the Senator, was indisposed. But at his order every kindness was 
 shown me by the clerks of the establishment; and through one of 
 them my books were soon liberated from the custom-house. I 
 declined their invitation to dine at the Trapiche, for I had already 
 accepted the kind offer of my Brazilian compagnons de voyage at 
 the hotel of Senhor Francisco. Senhor F. was said to be a perfect 
 polyglot; but I found, by trying him in three languages, that he 
 only spoke a smattering of each. The dinner was plentiful and 
 excellent. I found that the convivial qualities of the Brazilians 
 were as remarkable as those of John Bull, — not that there was 
 drinking to any excess, but they ate heartily, and cheered most 
 lustily at every toast or sentiment, with which it seemed our feast 
 was as plentifully provided as with substantial food and doces. The 
 Brazilians are great toasters; and 1 have seen a table at which 
 twenty or more persons were assembled, and each proposed at 
 least one sentiment, while some proposed during the sitting the 
 health of as many as six different individuals. Some of these 
 toasts would be concluded by a song vociferated by the whole com- 
 pany as loudly as if German students had been the performers. 
 
 The company at Senhor Francisco's consisted of merchants, 
 physicians, a number of Government civil officers, and one colonel 
 of the regular array. Wine in abundance was placed upon the 
 table; yQ.t it was used in great moderation by those who did par- 
 take of it, while others seemed to abstain from it altogether. In 
 settling tlie bill, ($1 each,) not one of them would allow me to share 
 a penny of the expense; and throughout the whole repast, it being 
 known that I was a Protestant clergyman, they were most re- 
 spectful in their bearing, and all approved of the work in which 1 
 was engaged. I have been thus particular in mentioning this little 
 incident, because some writers and visitors in Brazil, but who cer- 
 tainly have never seen beyond a ship-ehandlery, hotel, or at 
 furthest some coast-city, have complained that Brazilians are in- 
 hospitable, selfish, and altogether distrustful of strangers. As to 
 inhospitality, away from the great towns it cannot be predicated of 
 them; and even in Eio and Bahia, the largest cities of Brazil, I 
 have met with the very warmest welcomes from Brazilians whom 
 
Hospitality and Kindness. 311 
 
 I had never seen until I handed them my letters of intioductiou. 
 Among the pleasantest memories of my life will be the recollection 
 of the kind hospitality manifested towards me by Brazilians at the 
 metropolis, where more than elsewhere coldness is said to abound. 
 As to selfishness and distrust of strangers, they possess the one in 
 common with human nature, and of the other they do not possess 
 more than is manifested by Englishmen or Americans when ap- 
 proached by the newly-arrived foreigner without letters of recom- 
 mendation. 
 
 From the hotel of Senhor Francisco we went on boai-d of our 
 steamer. That evening a knot of our passengers, together with 
 the captain and his mate, sat up to a late hour conversing in regard 
 to the demoralizing literature which floods the land from France. 
 They listened with great attention to remai'ks w^iich were in favor 
 of laying the axe at the root of the tree ; and a corrupt religion 
 was measured by the only true standard, — that great Eule of Faith 
 given to us by God in His word. 
 
 The next day our steamer did not leave Santos until noon, so that 
 I had an opportunity of going again to the warehouse of Senhor 
 Vergueiro & Filhos. 1 was glad to find that the youngest Vergueiro 
 was able to be in his counting-room, though Senlior Jose had not 
 yet returned from the interior. He regretted much that I could 
 not then accept the hospitality of their house, stating that his 
 father had written to them requesting that they would pay me 
 every possible attention, but hoped that on my return from San 
 Francisco do Sul 1 would give them a long visit. All this was said 
 in a manner so unaffected and cordial as to preclude all idea 
 of formality or insincerity. 
 
 At twelve o'clock the "vapor" left Santos, and we were soon 
 steaming down the river. 
 
 Santos is situated upon the northern portion of the island of S. 
 Vicente, which is detached from the continent merely by the two 
 mouths of the Cubatao Kiver. The principal stream affords en- 
 trance at high-water to large vessels, and is usually called Eio de 
 Santos up as far as that town. At its mouth, upon the northern 
 bank, stands the fortress of S. Amaro. This relic of olden time is 
 occupied by a handful of soldiers, whose principal employment ia 
 to go on board the vessels as they pass up and down, to serve as a 
 
312 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 guard against smuggling. Tlie course of tlie river is winding and 
 its bottom muddy. Its banks are low and covered with mangx'oves, 
 so that the foreground is not very inviting; but from the wheel- 
 house a fine prospect of back-countiy and distant mountains pre- 
 sented themselves on the north. The captain pointed out the site 
 of St. Vincent, — the first regularly-established colony in Brazil. 
 How Martin Alfonso de Souza could have chosen this place in pre- 
 ference to the present situation of Eio is indeed hard to account 
 for, excejjt on the ground that the Tamoyo Indians were too 
 numerous around the Bay of JSTictherohy. 
 
 The sea becoming rough, I took to my old and sovereign remedy 
 against nausea, — viz. : a good oerth, — and did not rise until I found 
 that the sun was high above the mountains, and that we were enter- 
 ing the intricate harbor of Paranagua. Before crossing the bar, we 
 saw outside a Brazilian schooner tossing up and down at anchor. The 
 captain, with his glass, perceived that it was one chai-tered by the 
 Steam-Packet Company, and was loaded with coals from which he 
 was to obtain his fuel for the remainder of the voj^age. It was of 
 the utmost importance, then, that the schooner should cross the bar. 
 With the jn-esent wind it would be impossible. The steamer's 
 head was put for the schooner. It was with difficulty that any 
 one became aroused, and then the utmost indifference was mani- 
 fested by the captain of the little sailing-vessel at a proposition 
 which would have made an English or a Yankee skipper dance 
 with joy, — i.e. to be towed in. His drawling reply was, ^^ Se o 
 Senhor quizer," (If the gentleman wishes it.) This was perfectly in 
 accordance with the general want of energy which characterizes a 
 
 certain class of Brazilians. The vessel was attached to the P , 
 
 and we were soon over the bar, steering up the difficult channel. 
 
 A number of letters which I wrote to a friend during this voyage 
 
 were preserved and afterward returned to me; and I have thought 
 
 it best from time to time to introduce portions of th.em which possess 
 
 at least the interest of being penned amid the scenes which they 
 
 describe. The following was written from the next port south of 
 
 Paranagua. <<c. t. c. . 
 
 ° " CAN Francisco do Sdl, 1 
 
 "Province OF Santa Cathakina. / 
 " This is not that San Francisco of wonderful growth, of adven- 
 turers, and of golden dreams. As to gold, there is none; as to 
 
Okder of Exercises on the Steamer. 313 
 
 adventurers, only two runaway sailors; and as to rapid growth, 
 that is reversed, for here there are plenty of houses to let, — plenty 
 'hunying [the only haste to be discovered] on to indistinct decay.' 
 
 "But I will go back for a day or two in ni}" journey. 
 
 ''I left Santos on the 15th. It is delightful to travel on a Bra- 
 zilian steamer, provided that you are not in a hurry. They take 
 things so easy: I mean both steamers and people. And let me say 
 that, of all the travellers with whom I have ever voj'aged, the Bra- 
 zilians are the most good-natured and agreeable after you have 
 laade their acquaintance. They are veiy obliging, yet from time 
 to time can display as much selfishness as other 'humans' on a 
 vessel, — that little world in miniature, where all that is bad is easily 
 brought to light. Pacieiiza is the motto of these steamers. When 
 you arrive at a town, after having been 'terribly' pitched about 
 and sea-sick, you may now count upon a good twenty -four or thirty- 
 six hours on land. It is a great luxury. The passengers desert 
 the vessel, (although good dinners are provided on shipboard,) and 
 oti' tliey rush to the hotels; or, in default of this, the}" seek the 
 Casus de Pasto, and feast to such an extent that you would deem 
 them half famished. 
 
 "The 'order of exercises' on board the steamer at sea may be 
 easily stated. Each morning at six o'clock the cabin-boy wakes 
 you up by giving you a cup of coffee, {noir,) and thirty or forty 
 minutes afterward a large bowl of niirujau, (arrowroot, or maize- 
 raush,) well sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, is placed on the 
 table, and a stra])ping big fellow, fortified with a ladle, is ready to 
 serve you with all the grace and celerity which appertains to the 
 same kind of presiding genii that you meet with at the Faubourg 
 du Temple in Paris. At ten o'clock a huge breakfast consisting of 
 roast and boiled beef, pork, fresh fish, pirao, (a dish of mandioca,) 
 t\:c. &c., is placed before you. Fall to, help yourself, and your neigh- 
 bors will do the same without any ritardo; and, when satisfied or 
 fatigued with this operation, vary the business by imbibing the tea 
 which the steward has just brought simmering in. Now mount 
 the deck. If the sea is not heavy, pipes, cigars, and promenades 
 are the next in the programme. The scenery on shore is my cigar j 
 and up to the present time there has been no diminution of my 
 enjoj'ment in this respect. If any thing, the mountains are still 
 
314 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 more fantastic and varied than at Eio, and the bays and islets are 
 perfectly picturesque. The passengers are full of pranks and jokes 
 for an hour or so, and then they take a nap or read. I will venture 
 to assert there never was before so much Bible-reading on board 
 of a Brazilian vessel. On account of the warmth of the climate, 
 each of these coast-steamers have, all around the upper deck, little 
 cabins, or, more properly, respectable dog-houses, with a sliding- 
 door. Although there are comfortable berths below, these uj)per 
 apartments are the choicest to be had; for, night or day, you ai'e 
 always sure of fresh, pure air. My fellow-passengers were stretched 
 around in these little cabins with the sliding-doors pushed back, and 
 
 VIEW OF PARANAGUA. 
 
 I thus had an opportunity of seeing them as I walked the decR. 
 I. was often called upon to explain the Scriptures, and rejoiced in 
 the opportunity of scattering the seed, which, though sown in ap- 
 
The "Cormorant" and the Slavers. 315 
 
 parently unproj)itious ground, the Master can cause to spring up 
 an hundredfold. 
 
 " We arrived at Paranagua on the Saturday morning after leav- 
 ing Rio, and now I can say that I have been in the newest Bra- 
 zilian province, — that of Parana. The entrance of the bay is a 
 ])eriect puzzle, and the mountains beyond the city are both lofty 
 and picturesque. AVhile the sun was streaming down upon the 
 deck of our steamer, I took a rough sketch of a portion of the 
 outer harbor, which I herewith enclose to you, premising the im- 
 possibility to do justice to this whole coast without the power of a 
 Constable, a Turner, or a Calame. 
 
 "Paranagua was formerly a celebrated rendezvous for scoundrels 
 of all nations engaged in the slave-trade ; and when the British 
 Government, a few years ago, ordered its cruisers to make a 
 vigorous demonstration on the Brazilian coast, the 'Cormorant,' 
 of the Eoyal Navy, steamed up these sinuosities, entered the har- 
 bor, and cut out a whole nest of slavers. The fort was well situated 
 near the bar, and H. B. M. ' Cormorant' must pass that point. After 
 a slight resistance before yielding their vessels, the pirate captains 
 and crews ran around by land to the fort and manned the guns, 
 anxiously awaiting the 'Cormorant' as she should proceed to sea, 
 dragging her trophies after her. Proudly she again ploughed 
 through the winding approach to the ocean. The guns of the fort 
 were well pointed, but H. B. M. ' Cormorant' proved to be as much 
 of a sagacious fox as a rapacious bird, for, perceiving the trap laid 
 for her, she prepared a most ' artful dodge.' Her crew very adroitly 
 placed the largest slaver between herself (the man-of-war) and the 
 fort, and then onward steamed the 'Cormorant.' Bang went the 
 cannon of the fortress: the balls touched not the bird of prey; but, 
 in the twinkling of an eye, she slipped beyond the slaver, discharged 
 the heavy guns from her bows, and the dislodged cannon of the fort 
 told how capital had been the aim of H. B.M.'s gunners. The 
 slavers, however, prepared to respond; but the discreet 'Cormorant' 
 cunningly retired behind the big vessel, though but for an instant. 
 She sailed once more onward, and discharged her farewell shot with 
 such telling effect upon the old fort that the inmates made no 
 further attempt to hinder the 'Cormorant,' which soon gained the 
 open sea, and in a few moments, by skilful scuttling, put the slave 
 
316 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 vessels beyond the reach of o trafico, as you know the Brazilians 
 call the accursed slave-trade. 
 
 "Most of our passengers went ashore here, many of them bound 
 for Curitiba, the capital of this new province. Their great kind- 
 ness 1 shall not soon forget; and 1 am happy to think that they 
 will carry the Bible, perhaps for the first time, where probably 
 few have ever seen the records of salvation. 
 
 "I also went ashore. Paranagua is a pretty and a clean town, — 
 a little in decay I thought at first; but a second inspection told me 
 that I had not done justice to the only port of Parana. This town 
 contains about three thousand inhabitants, and annually exports 
 mate to the amount of one million of dollars. Mate is the dried 
 leaves and young stems of a species of oak which is gathered 
 in the interior and brought dowi. in raw-hide cases, exceedingly 
 tightly packed, and is hence shipped for the Spanish-American 
 Kepublics. 
 
 "I found a number of large wholesale stores doing a good busi- 
 ness with those who brought hither the products of the back- 
 country. One of these merchants invited me to go to the house 
 of his brother for the purpose of examining a map of the province, 
 which I had in vain sought for in the metropolis, the boundaries 
 not having as yet been definitely fixed. Fancy my feelings when, 
 after threading a number of streets, I entered a house where a 
 recent floor-scrubbing made every thing appear damp, and a largo 
 map was brought forth which seemed to have imbibed as much of 
 humidity as possible without being wet ; and, though it was perfect 
 in every part save one, that part was just what I wished to see, — 
 viz. : the boundary between Parana and S. Paulo. Moisture, mil- 
 dew, and mice had carefully eradicated every design of the engineer 
 and every scratch of the engraver, so that I was left to return, 
 mourning over the mutability of maps and the carelessness of man 
 ii. Paranagua. 
 
 •'In one of the streets the ruins of a church attracted my atten- 
 tion; and I was informed that it was an edifice nearly comj^leted 
 by the Jesuits when they were expelled. You can scarcely travel 
 a hundred miles along the Brazilian sea-coast (which stretches, 
 with its bays and inlets, nearly four thousand miles) without 
 encountering, in some rich valley or upon some picturesque emi 
 
The E-ussians and the Prima Donna. 317 
 
 ncnce, the immense churches, chapels, and convents of this order, 
 whose members entered Brazil when its prosperity was at its 
 height and when its ambition was hindered by no external circum- 
 stances. I have been more surprised at the hugeness of some of 
 the conventual edifices in Bi-azil than at any thing of the kind I 
 have ever seen in France, Germany, or Italy. 
 
 "As the little canoe in which we went from the steamer to the 
 town neared the inner harbor, where vessels were moored close to 
 the shore, I perceived two which looked remarkably desolate and 
 forlorn. They were Russian vessels which were found near this 
 port at the commencement of hostilities, and, fearing to be nabbed 
 by some H.B.M. 'Bulldog,' 'Grabber/ or 'Jowler,' slid into this 
 out-of-the-way place. It appears very singular to see these 
 Northern birds of the ocean clipped of their wings here. They are 
 truly out of place; for their yards are taken off, the topmasts are 
 down, and, with their stiff hulks, awnings of canvas in the house- 
 roof style, and with their general want of rigging, the}' seem like 
 the 'Fury' and 'Hecla' in their Gi'eenland clothes, or rather as 
 if the winter-bound Bay of Archangel were their resting-place, and 
 it and the surrounding shores were suddenly clad by the 'Hand 
 divine' with the warmth and flowers and verdure of this perpetual- 
 summer land. 
 
 "When, on my return, I reached the steamer, I found that a 
 lady whose peculiar taste in dress had attracted the attention of 
 all on board was attended b}'' a number of 'spruce gentlemen' 
 whose well-trimmed moustaches and highly-polished patent-leather 
 shoes indicated that they belonged to a class very different from 
 the poncho-clad passengers bound to Curitiba and the Sertoes. It 
 was not long before I ascertained that the lady in question was the 
 'bright particular star' of a theatrical company then travelling the 
 provinces, and that the gentlemen Avere from the same establish- 
 ment, they having arrived some days previous to their prima 
 donna assoluta. 
 
 "The passengers who were destined for Santa Catharina re- 
 mained that night upon the steamer; but the next day, (Sunday,) 
 at an early hour, all left, with the exception of myself, to pass the 
 hours of sacred time at Paranagua, where a grand festa was to take 
 place in honor of some saint. One of the greatest inducements was 
 
318 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 to attend the theatrical perforinanees of the strolling actors, who 
 were to give dignity and honor to the occasion by stujjid and 
 vulgar comedies. You will think, perhaps, 'What is the use of 
 disseminating the word of God among such a people?' I will 
 reply, 'Be not weary in well-doing;' and it is God's own word. 
 My duty is to scatter it far and wide, to preach it by precept 
 whenever I can, and by example always, and then leave the rest 
 to Him. I have already found more than one notable instance in 
 Brazil, where a Bible, left under circumstances just as untoward, 
 has produced its fruits. 
 
 "I spent my day on board, but had very little quiet while the 
 steamer was receiving her cargo of coals from the schooner along- 
 side, from which — in some manner very unaccountable to the 
 8kipj)er — there were many tons short. I had all to myself, 
 a large table well spread with viands; but, being of a social 
 nature, I invited the engineer (a common-sense and wide-aAvake 
 fellow of the Manchester machine-shop stripe) and the Brazilian 
 second mate to join me. I find out from the Englishman that 
 there are many of his countrymen and their children at the Saude, 
 [a division of the municipality of Eio de Janeiro,] uncared-for 
 either morally or intellectually. They are too far from the Eng- 
 lish church to attend service : but this plea of distance perhaps is 
 only put forward to hide the real one of indifference. Now, can 
 you not put something in train for them? They are workmen, 
 and he saj'S that both adults and children are not doing what they 
 ought, one class running to cacha^a and the other to ignorance, and 
 'Sunday is no Sunday.' Next year there are a thousand English 
 and Irish laborers coming out for the Pedro Segundo Railway, and, 
 
 on account of the distance and the pulpit-duties of Mr. , a 
 
 clergyman, he cannot have facilities for attending to their minds 
 or souls. 
 
 [In regard to the matter here referred to, some English ladies 
 and an American theological student (then on a visit to Brazil) 
 took it up, and interested both English and American merchants 
 in the plan. They furnished the means, and, just as all was well 
 organized, a competent man was found in an English mate, then 
 on his homeward voj-age from Australia, and intending to devote 
 the remainder of his days to God in some other employment than 
 
Letters of Introduction. 319 
 
 that of following the ocean, and was persuaded to take charge of 
 the new school, which in a short time was in full operation, and 
 disseminating its ameliorating influences upon both parents and 
 children.] This school in 1865 is still a great success. 
 
 " The next day (Monday) we left Paranagmi. After a fine run 
 of eight hours along a coast abounding in repetitions of Corco- 
 vados and Peaks of Tijuca, we entered the safe Bay of San Fran- 
 cisco do Sul. 
 
 "Letters of introduction are great things in Brazil. They have 
 smoothed the way for me everywhere previous to arriving at this 
 port, and I here find no exception to the general rule expressed 
 in the line above. Mr. Y., the agent of the steamer, received me 
 very kindly, and my boxes were soon despatched and landed upon 
 the beach, which was filled with fishermen, mulatto women, half- 
 naked children, and an indescribable lot of sundries in the shape 
 of timber, rice spread out to dry, canoes drawn up, &c. ko. In 
 another hour the steamer had rounded the promontory, and was 
 soon out of sight on its way to Desterro. So, for the present, 1 
 will say, — Adeos." 
 
 Note for 1S66. — The Saude School, referred to in this chapter, Las been the means 
 of great good at Rio ; and, though its chief patroness, Mrs. Jane S. D. Garrett, has 
 returned to England, thus leaving a void not easily filled, it is steadily accom- 
 plishing its good work. An acknowledgment for hospitality received is here due 
 Mrs. Garrett, the recollection of whose home in the Larangeiras will long be one 
 of the " pleasures of memory." The junior author, during his visits of 1862, '63, 
 '64, and '65, received in Rio much kindness from the Swiss family of Mr. Gustave 
 Lutz, and in the American homes of Mr. George N. Davis, Mr. Henry E. Milford, 
 and Mr. John Hayes. It gives us pleasure also to recognize the courtesies 
 of Admiral Tamandar^, Senhora Andrade e Pinto, (of the Rua St. Ignacio,) the 
 Baron de Maua, Sr. Militao Maximo de Souza, Mr. W. G. Ginty, and Mr. Bennett. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE PKOVINCE OF PARANA — MESSAGE OF ITS FIRST PRESIDENT — MATE, OR PARA- 
 GUAY TEA — ITS CULTURE AND PREPARATION — GROWS IN NORTH CAROLINA — SAN 
 FRANCISCO DO SUlA— EXPECTATIONS NOT FULFILLED — CANOE-VOYAGE — MY COM- 
 PANIONS NOT WHOLLY CARNIVOROUS — A TRAVELLED TRUNK— THE TOLLING-BELL 
 BIRD — ARRIVAL AT JOINVILLE — A NEW SETTLEMENT — CIRCULAR ON EMIGRATION 
 TO BRAZIL. 
 
 The province of Parana, whose chief port, Paranagna, I had 
 just left, merits a still further mention. It commenced its full 
 provincial career about the year 1853, though for a number of 
 years previously projects had been entei'tained in the General 
 Assembly at Rio to set off the comarca of Curitiba from San Paulo 
 as a distinct province. As to its limits, they are essentially 
 those of the old district of Curitiba. Its first President, Zacarias 
 de Goes e Yasconcellos, was Minister of Marine in 1852-53, and is 
 one of the instances so frequent in Brazil of a j^oung man who. 
 rising rapidly by his talents, attains the highest positions of State. 
 He is probably the youngest person ever called to take a seat in 
 the Imperial Cabinet, where by his eloquence and by his readiness 
 at response (for the ministers are interpellated as formerly in 
 France and as now in England) he rose to an eminent place among 
 the statesmen of Brazil. 
 
 In 1854, he opened for the first time the Provincial Assembly of 
 Parana, and his Relatorios (messages) of that year and the follow- 
 ing, now both before me, display ability and research. 
 
 He places the population at 62,000, only one-sixth of which is 
 composed of slaves; and, if his statistics be correct, the province of 
 Parana must enjoy a salubrity beyond any other portion of the 
 world, — the births exceeding the deaths between two and three 
 hundred per cent. 
 
 He enforces upon the legislators the duty of making the com- 
 mon-school education far more obligatory than it is. "Primary 
 320 
 
Education and Paraguay Tea. 321 
 
 instruction," he urges, "is more than a mere right of the child, a 
 duty discharged toward him; it is a rigorous obligation. It is 
 thus that you (the rej)resentatives) should consider and dispose of 
 the subject in the legislation of the new province. 
 
 ''The people oblige themselves to be vaccinated. They respond 
 to this without fail, for vaccination is a preservative from fatal 
 pestilence. 
 
 "Now, primary instruction is, so to speak, a moral vaccine, which 
 preserves the people from that worst of pestilences, — ignorance, — 
 from those crude notions which brinff man to the level of the brute, 
 and which change him into the fit and facile instrument for rob- 
 bery, assassination, revolution, and, in fine, for all evil. 
 
 "Primary education is more: it is a kind of baptism with which 
 man is regenerated from the dark ignorance in which he is born, 
 and truly effects his entrance into civil society and into the enjoy- 
 ment of those rights and privileges which are his heritage." 
 
 When we consider what arc the views of Eoman Catholics in re- 
 gard to baptism, we can see the force of the remarks of Senhor 
 Zacarias. 
 
 The President does not merely confine his attention to the early 
 training of the youth of his provincial charge, but his remarks m 
 reference to the various branches of agriculture show him to be 
 a man of enlarged vicAvs, and that he is as read}' to combat indo- 
 lence as ignorance. He alludes to the fact that wheat was for- 
 merly not only an article of cultivation in the fertile comarca of 
 Curitiba, but that it was exported. This branch of agriculture is 
 now almost abandoned, and, according to his statements, because a 
 large portion of the population, eschewing the labor required in the 
 production of the cereals, rush to the virgin forests, and there, 
 stripping the evergreen leaves and the tender branches of the Ilex 
 Paraguayensis, easily convert them into the popular South American 
 beverage known as the yerba mate or herva Parnguaya, and thus 
 amass fortunes or obtain a livelihood without the intervention of 
 persevering industry or great exertion. 
 
 Large quantities of this kind of tea are annually exported from 
 the province of Parana. Senhor Zacarias would not have the tea- 
 bearing Ilex uprooted to produce the same effect as the vigorous 
 
 Marquis de Pombal brought about by the destruction, in the last 
 
 21 
 
322 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 century, of tlio vineyards of Portugal; but he wishes to control its 
 gathering, to moderate the inclinations and the causes that push 
 the people into this branch of labor for a few months and then 
 leave them indolent for the remainder of the year. 
 
 The mate of Paraguay, doubtless from prejudice, is considered 
 superior in quality to that of Parana; but the inhabitants of the 
 interior neighboring Spanish provinces prefer the former to the 
 latter, as they are accustomed to use the beverage without sugar; 
 while in the cities of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo the former is 
 the favorite, and is almost always sweetened before consumption. 
 
 In the interior of the province of San Paulo, after my visit to 
 Santa Catharina, I met with an American physician, a man of 
 great scientific tastes and acquirements, who has taken up his 
 residence in South America for the purpose of research in his 
 favorite study of botany. In the course of many interesting con- 
 versations with him in regard to the various vegetable riches and 
 wonders of the surrounding regions, I was not a little pleased to 
 find that he was pei-fectly acquainted with the mode of prepara- 
 tion, as well as the class and family, of the plant in question. 
 Mate, as I have already mentioned, is the name of the prepared 
 article of the tree or shrub which is commonly known to botanists 
 as the Ilex Paraguayensis. It is classified by Yon Mai'tius as be- 
 longing to the lihamnee fixmily, and he gives it the scientific name 
 of Cassine Gongonlia. The Spaniards usually denominate it Yerba 
 de Paraguay, or mate. 
 
 While in Paranagua, I obsei'ved many raw-hide cases which the 
 blacks were unloading from mules or conveying to the ships riding 
 at anchor in the beautiful bay. Upon inquiry, I learned that these 
 packages, weighing about one hundred and twenty pounds each, 
 consisted of mate. This substance, so little known out of South 
 America, forms truly the principal refreshing beverage of the 
 Spanish Americans south of the Equator, and millions of dollars are 
 annually expended in Buenos Ayres, Bolivia, Peru, and Chili in its 
 consumption. This town of Paranagua, containing about three 
 thousand inhabitants, exports every year ncai^ly a million of dollars' 
 worth of mate. 
 
 In Brazil and in Paraguay it can be gathei'cd during the whole 
 year. Parties go into the forest, or places where it abounds, and 
 
Paraguay Tea in Xorth Carolina. 3'23 
 
 Dreak off the branches with the leaves. A process of kihi-dryiug is 
 resorted to in the woods, and afterward the branches and leaves are 
 transported to some rude mill, and there they are by water-power 
 pounded in mortars. 
 
 The substance, after this operation, is almost a powder, though 
 small stems denuded of their bark are alwaj^s permitted to remain. 
 By this simple process the mate is prepared for market. Its pre- 
 paration for di'inking is equally simple. A small quantity of the 
 leaf, either with or without sugar, is placed in a common bowl, upon 
 which cold water is poured. After standing a short time, boiling 
 water is added, and it is at once ready for use. Americans who 
 have visited Buenos Ayres or Montevideo may remember to have 
 seen, on a fine summer evening, the denizens of that portion of the 
 world engaged in sipping, through long tubes inserted into highly- 
 ornamented cocoanut bowls, a liquid which, though not so palata- 
 ble as iced juleps, is certainly far less harmful. These citizens of 
 Montevideo and Buenos Ajtcs were enjoying with their bombilhas 
 a refreshing draught of mate. It must be imbibed through a tube, 
 on account of the particles of leaf and stem which float upon the 
 surface of the liquid. This tube has a fine globular strainer at 
 the end. 
 
 Great virtues are ascribed to this tea. It supplies the place of 
 meat and drink. Indians who have been laboring at the oar all 
 day feel immediately refreshed by a cup of the herb mixed simply 
 with river-water. In Chili and Peru the people believe that they 
 could not exist without it, and many persons take it every hour 
 of the day. Its use was learned from the natives; but, having been 
 adopted, it spread among the Spaniards and Portuguese, until the 
 demand became so great as to render the herb of Paraguay almost 
 as fatal to the Indians of this part of America as mines and pearl- 
 fisheries had been elsewhere. 
 
 It gi'ows wild, and never has been successfully cultivated, 
 although attempts were made by the Jesuits of Paraguay to trans- 
 plant it from the forests to their plantations. These attempts have 
 been considered by many without result; still, there are others who 
 consider that the experiment justifies further efforts, and are urging 
 this day the domestication, so to speak, and the cultivation, of mate 
 under a regular system. 
 
324 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 But that -which astonished me most in the doctor's conversation 
 was the statement that a shrub simihir to the Ilex Paragvayensis 
 was indigenous to the United States, and that a decoction of its 
 leaves and branches was actually used as a beverage in the region 
 where it grew. 
 
 His life had been full of adventure in every portion of the globe j 
 and, when he was a younger man, he roamed over each Southern 
 and Western State, hunting for the weed which was vulgarly sup- 
 posed to cause the "milk-sickness." Although he did not find the 
 cause of that disease, which has so damaged manj^ a speculation in 
 Western towns and villages, yet he made the acquaintance of a 
 little tree in North CaroHna, from the leaves of which many of 
 the country -people of the old North State ''make tea." If I re- 
 member rightly, he informed me that it was the Ilex euponia; but 
 scientific readers must not hold me responsible for this name, as 
 my note-book may probably mislead me. A few years afterward, 
 
 Dr. was in- this, the most glorious field for a botanist in the 
 
 world, — this Southern Brazil, whose magnificent flora has been the 
 Avild delight of every favored follower of Linnaeus who has been 
 permitted to enter it. In the course of his rambles he encountered 
 the Ilex Paraguayensis, and immediately saluted it as his old ac- 
 quaintance (under features but little diiferent) of North Carolina. 
 Some months elapsed, and he visited Paranagua; and he was almost 
 as much surprised at another discover}', which was not, however, 
 in the botanical hne. He found, in this out-of-the-way part of 
 Brazil, an American woman engaged in the delightful art of 
 preparing feijoes and toucinho (pork and beans) for natives and 
 foreigners who might patronize her establishment. In conversa- 
 tion with Dr. in regard to the mate, she exclaimed, "Why, 
 
 doctor, this is the. same truck we use in CaroUner to make tea." 
 Here was a most striking confirmation of the true conclusion 
 of science. 
 
 Now, if this tree or bush really abounds in North Carolina, why 
 may not the enterprise of some of her citizens add to the exports 
 (laid down in every geography as tar, tobacco, turpentine, and 
 lumber) mate? Brazil and Paraguay are reaping their millions 
 from a shrub which grows spontaneously^, and the subject is really 
 worth investiucation in the United States. 
 
San Francisco do Sul. 325 
 
 Returning from the new province of Parana, attention "will be 
 now directed to the province of Santa Catharina. 
 
 San Francisco is an ancient town which has evidently seen tetter 
 daj'S. The arrival of a stranger with such a peculiar cargo as 
 mine created quite a sensation in the usually-stagnant society of 
 this northern portion of the province of Santa Catharina. All the 
 idlers, gossipers, men of business, and even the Padres came to see 
 the new books. The priest found no objection to them, and two 
 hours had not elapsed before the}^ were all disposed of, and I made 
 my arrangements to ascend the river San Francisco do Sul to the 
 German and French colonies founded on the lands once belonging 
 to the Prince de Joinville. 
 
 In the mean time, with Mi'. V. and two new acquaintances, both 
 Germans, 1 strolled around the town, which is finely situated 
 on an island separated from the mainland only by a very small 
 stream. Before us stretched a bay three miles in width and six in 
 length. It is well protected from the ocean, and in it is discharged 
 the river San Francisco do Sul, Avhich flows from the mountains 
 that rear their green summits far in the distance. That lofty ridge, 
 in its highest elevation, is more than four thousand feet above the 
 level of the sea, and from its inland base to the rich plain where 
 Curitiba is situated there is a gradual ascent of twenty miles. 
 With an energetic people, this district — which in regard to fertility 
 and climate is one of the finest in the world — would bloom with a 
 cultivation not surpassed by the rich fields of Lombardy or the 
 model farms of Midlothian. 
 
 Great hopes were entertained at the beginning of this century 
 that San Francisco do Sul would become a flourishing mart, on 
 account of the road which would open the high plains to the com- 
 merce of the bay. Furthermore, there was great activity at that 
 time, the chief occupation of the inhabitants consisting in ship- 
 building and in the cutting of timber. Vessels of large dimensions 
 were formerly built here, as well as coasters, at the order of mer- 
 chants from Rio, Bahia, and Pernambuco. The wood used was so 
 strong, holding the iron so firmly, that ships built of it were of the 
 most durable quality, and were in greater esteem with the Portu- 
 guese and Spaniards than those built in Europe. In 1808, Mr. 
 Mawe, one of the earliest English voyagers in Brazil, wrote that, 
 
326 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 on account of its sliii>building, "the harboi- of San Francisco do 
 Sul is likely to become of considerable value to Brazil; and if it 
 be connected with Curitiba, the cattle of which have been found 
 Bu^icrior to those of Eio Grande, there is every probability that at 
 no distant day the Portuguese navy will touch here to be supplied 
 with salt provisions." 
 
 As I look-ed upon the silent streets of San Francisco, — as I be- 
 held its bay innocent of any vessel except the smallest coasters, 
 and its once-busy shipyards containing but two small mandioca 
 sloops upon the stocks, — I thought how wide a difference there was 
 between. the reality of the present and the sjseculations of half 
 a century ago in regard to the commercial activity and future 
 growth of the town, situated upon the waters of Bahitonga, by 
 which name the natives called the bay. It was thought that the 
 establishment of a colony of Europeans in the vicinity of the de- 
 caying town would resuscitate it; but thus far there has been no 
 such result, and I fear that many a year will elapse before this 
 can be accomplished. 
 
 I determined to start for the colony at an early hour the next 
 morning, and to this end Mr. V. kindly sought for a canoe belong- 
 ing to a gigantic slave who rejoiced in the appropriate name of 
 Jose Grande. After nightfall the African made his appearance, 
 and it was settled that we should commence our trip at three and 
 a half o'clock in the morning. 
 
 Mr. V. regretted that the circumstance of his boarding prevented 
 his offering me his hosjDitality, but recommended me to a hotel, or, 
 more properly speaking, a regular countiy-inn, which had just 
 been opened by a German from the colony of Donna Francisca. 
 My experience in that establishment was at the time detailed in a 
 letter to a friend at Eio : — 
 
 "Ilerr Sneider, mine host, and all his family, spoke scarcely 
 any thing but German, and as much of English and Portuguese 
 as can be compressed into 'yes' and 'Sim, Senhor.' By-the-way, 
 I have picked up a certain quantum of that same jaw-breaking 
 language of Goethe and Schiller, which I have neglected since my 
 university days for the tongues of Southern Europe. My supper 
 was perfectly German; for it closed with beer, which, in default of 
 barley, had been made fx-om rice, that abounds in this vicinity. 
 
Herr Sneider's Inn. 327 
 
 Having finished my repast, I gave orders that, as they had pre- 
 pared supper enough for three men, the remainder should be 
 arranged for my breakfast in the canoe, as it would be entirely 
 too early to partake of that meal before embarking. 
 
 " We then had a mutual -instruction society, — an exchange of Eng- 
 lish and German. How many children there were I cannot say; 
 but there was any quantity of blooming fresh frauleins from nine- 
 teen yeai's and dowiiward, together with a number of health}^, rosy 
 boys. It had been so long since I had looked upon blue-eyed and 
 tair-haired children that they were quite a curiosity. Having 
 occasion to see Mr. Y. before retiring, I said to them, ' I go now to 
 Mr. V.'s: when I return, I wish to have a large room and a good 
 clean bed.' A patron of the inn informed me that I should be 
 thus accommodated in every particular. 
 
 "When I again entered Herr Sneider's, I was told that my room 
 was ready, and, upon ni}" signifjnng my intention to go to bed, the 
 whole family, — Herr S., Frau S., Frauleins S., and the bo3-s, — to m}' 
 astonishment, followed me to the apartment, which proceeding I 
 did not fancy, because it did not seem quite convenable, taking into 
 view the feminine portion of the procession. I, however, concluded 
 to be led to my quarters, of which I entertained the highest ex- 
 pectations. These expectations w^ere realized so far as the size of 
 the chamber was concerned ; but, unfortunately, mine was not the 
 only bed in it, for there were four or five others, filled with snoring 
 occupants. I determined to be gracious and make no complaint, 
 for assuredly my clean sheets would make up for a little too much 
 of society. So, pulling down the supposed coverlet, I found that it 
 was a feather-bed for a regular Prussian winter. These Germans, 
 when they left Fatherland, could conceive of no country whei-e 
 wintei' and snow could not evep be exotic. I discovei-ed also that, 
 instead of the good, healthy, and hard Brazilian mattress, there 
 was a second huge feather-bed ; and I must thrust myself between 
 these. When my eyes got beyond the first, I found my clean 
 sheets to be of the color of the dirty Minas cotton which so plentifully 
 (or scantily, as the case may be) clothes the slaves throughout the 
 Empire. A closer inspection informed me that they had seen 
 w^hiter days, and had also made the acquaintance of manj^ other 
 lodgers, which fact I roundly asserted, and to which they partly 
 
328 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 assented. I, however, resolved to make the best of it, when they 
 would let me, — for they hung around as if they would never give 
 me the opportunity of going to rest. A young German ship- 
 chandler had his bed in the same room, and, without ceremony, 
 commenced to divest himself befoi-e the company preparatory to 
 sleep. This I could hardly do, and seated myself and began to 
 read. Finally the family left me, with many schlafen Sie wohl. 
 Having read as long as I wished, I determined to enter my bed, 
 fortified Avith a pair of pantaloons, (I had not forgotten the 
 sheets,) which after a time, proving rather uncomfortable w4th 
 feather-beds, I threw to one side. But this operation caused 
 the young ship-chandler much concern; for, hearing me moving 
 around in the dark, and supposing me ill, he screamed for the 
 family, and the scene which ensued is indescribable with pen : 
 only the pencil of Eembrandt could depict the depth of shadow 
 and the rich chiaro-oscuro, and that of Teniers the ruddy, 
 jolly features of the group of 3'oung Germans thus aroused 
 to see what was the matter with the American, who by this 
 time was snugly ensconced in his bed and almost bursting with 
 laughter. 
 
 "I slept badly, and at half-past three o'clock heard the pon- 
 derous step of Jose Grande. Following him through the deep 
 gloom that hung around, we (for I had given a bright German lad 
 permission to go with me) entered the canoe, Avhich was soon 
 shoved from the shore, and were propelled by Jose toward Donna 
 Francisca. Young German}^ and myself lay down in the bottom 
 of the narrow 'dug-out.' 
 
 "The morning was dark and drizzly, and a feeling of loneliness 
 crept over me as 1 lay listening to the pattering raindrops and the 
 dripping oar disturbing the oppressive silence. I thought of those 
 so 'dear to me, but who now were separated from me by thousands 
 of miles of ocean ; but I was less lonely when I breathed a pi'ayer 
 for them and felt in my heart the ever-cheering sentiment of 
 poor Pringle : — 
 
 •' 'A still small voice comes through the wild, 
 (Like a father consoling his fretful child,) 
 Which banishes bitterness, wrath, and fear, — 
 Saying, "Man is distant, but God is near!" ' 
 
A Travelled Trunk. ' 329 
 
 "I tried to sleep, but it was impossible; so, after three hours, I 
 said to Jose, ' We will breakfast.' On opening the budget, I found 
 two plates, four j)ieces of meat, and — nothing else, — not even a knife 
 and fork; but, as I am neither a lion, a vulture, nor even a Guacho 
 of Corrientes, I could not bi*eakfast on flesh alone. The rain had 
 now ceased, and I proposed to Jose to land and to purchase some- 
 thing from one of the farm-houses on shore. ^Ndo tern nada, senhor,' 
 ('They have nothing,') was Jose's sage reply. Nevertheless, at my 
 request, he jDut into a pretty cove at the foot of a mountain, and 
 sallied forth for a bargain. He 'soon returned, accompanied by a 
 sickly-looking boy, bringing oranges, bananas, and enough farinha 
 for four men. Young Germany and myself fell to work while 
 Jose's strong arm was sendijig us over the glassy waters. At Eio 
 de Janeiro I had often looked with admiration upon the slaves in 
 the boats stuffing and throwing farinha into their mouths; but I 
 never then dreamed that I should employ my digits for the same 
 purposes. I must admit, however, that there was neither grace- 
 fulness nor dexterity on my part; for m^- face became powdered 
 with the efl^ort to 'pitch in' the farinha d la Brazilienne. We had 
 one other compagaon de voyage, but not an eating one. Faithful old 
 trunk ! What sketches thou mightest give of Europe, America, 
 (North and South-,) and of the African Isles ! — what scenes thou hast 
 witnessed in three zones, on the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, 
 in the Straits of Majeilan and on the Isthmus of Panama, in the 
 Mexican Gulf, and, lastly, on the Eio San Francisco do Sul I Each 
 time that I open thee, and see there imprinted 'W. S. Chase, 
 trunk and harness maker. Providence, E.I.,' my thoughts run 
 over the past, and I recall the bright summer-day that I bought 
 thee, when on the eve of my first voyage ' over the seas and 
 far away.' Thou callest up a host of memories, — 
 
 ' the fond recollections of former years, — , 
 
 And the shadows of things that have long since fled 
 Flit over the brain like the ghosts of the dead.' 
 
 "Speaking of sketches, I send yoxx one which I took of myself 
 and fellow-voyagers. They are after (a very long way, indeed) 
 a compound of Gainsborough and Turner, with a slight addition 
 of Wilkie and Kenny Meadows thrown in." 
 
330 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The river became narrower, and every moment some largo 
 aquatic bird would be startled by our voices or by the dash of the 
 oar. Now it would be a beautif\il white ibis, then a blue heron or 
 a band of dancing cranes. From the mangrove-bushes and the 
 
 more distant woods we could hear the sometimes harsh and some- 
 times musically-solemn sound of the uruponga, or tolling-bell bird, 
 making the air resonant with its peculiar and solitary note. I had 
 listened again and again to these birds in my journeys in different 
 parts of Brazil, but I never had the good fortune to see but one, 
 and that was in the province of San Paulo. The sound- which the 
 uruponga (what a sweet aboriginal onomatope !) sends forth varies 
 little, but it can always be said to bo metallic. To hear it from 
 afar, it is not unlike the tolling of a bell; but, when distance does 
 not mellow the cadence, it is more like striking an anvil or the 
 filing of a large piece of iron. To listen to it in a Brazilian foi'cst 
 at mid-day, ringing forth its mournful knell when every other 
 songster is mute, powerfully disposes one 
 
 " To musing and dark melancholy." 
 
 Wallace says, in his account of the Amazonian regions, "We 
 had the good fortune one day to fall in with a small flock of 
 
The Tolling-Bell Bird. 
 
 831 
 
 URUPONGA, OR 
 TOLLING-BELL BIRO. 
 
 the rare and curious bell-bird, (Casmaj'hynchos carunculata,') but 
 
 they were on a very thick, lofty tree, and took flight before we 
 
 could get a shot at them. Though it was about four miles off in 
 
 the forest, we went again the next day, and found them feeding on 
 
 the same tree, but had no better success. On the third day we 
 
 went to the same spot, but from that time saw them no more. 
 
 The bird is of a pure white color, the size 
 
 of a blackbird, has a broad bill, and feeds 
 
 on fruits. From the base of the bill above 
 
 grows a fleshy tubercle, two or three 
 
 inches long and as thick as a quill, sparingly 
 
 clothed with minute feathers : it is quite 
 
 lax, and hangs down on one side of the 
 
 bird's head. The bird is remarkable for 
 
 its loud, clear, ringing note, — like a bell, — 
 
 which it utters at mid-day, when most other birds are silent." 
 
 Waterton, in his wanderings in Demerara, often alludes to the 
 campanero, (uruponga.) In one passage he says, "It never fails to 
 attract the attention of the 
 passenger : at a distance 
 of nearly three miles you 
 may hear this snow-white 
 bird tolling evevy four or 
 five minutes, like the dis- 
 tant convent-bell. From 
 six to nine A.M. the forests 
 resound with the mingled 
 strains of the feathered 
 race; after this they gra- 
 dually die away. From 
 eleven to three all nature 
 is hushed in midnight 
 silence, and scarce a note 
 is heard saving that of the 
 
 campanei'o. 
 
 No bird has been more 
 misrepresented by artists than the uruponga. The mistake has 
 been in copying stuffed specimens. The accompanying illustration 
 
332 Brazil axd the Brazilians. 
 
 is one of many that represents the uruponga with a stiff horn in 
 the unicorn style. The body is well enough, but the rhinoceros- 
 appendage is utterly at variance with nature. The little engraving 
 is a correct likeness of this singular bird, whose small, flexible, and 
 drooping appendage is very similar to that which is a part and 
 parcel of every turkeycock. 
 
 I was struck by the fact that, though the aquatic birds were at 
 first startled by us, they did not seem to have much fear. They 
 flapjied their great wings and moved slowly from us a few paces, 
 and then speedily resumed their former position. 
 
 On, on sped our canoe under the sturdy strokes of Jose. The 
 scenery was still more striking and beautiful. A background of 
 high mountains was prefaced by gentle eminences and by a woody 
 margin of bright-green ti'ees. Even the tall African, whom no 
 one would have suspected of a taste for these glorious views, ex- 
 claimed, from time to time, ^^E muito bonito, senhor!" ("It is very 
 beautiful, sir.") By the way, Jose gave me his idea of Protestants, 
 — viz. : people who were not baptized, and were destined to 
 inferno. 
 
 After some hours' rowing, the river became exceedingly' nari'ow, 
 so that the trees, with their rich parasites, completely overarched 
 us. This was near the new village of Joinville, in the colony of 
 Donna Francisca. "We jumped ashore, tied our canoe to the stump 
 of a recently-fallen tree, and tramped over — or, rather, througli — a 
 road which was like a sponge soaked with water. Here, indeed, 
 was the beginning of a new town in the wilderness, — houses stuck 
 down in the woods, and plenty of mud and children : but for the 
 difference of the flora, I would have believed myself beyond the 
 Missouri, on the borders of Kansas. On every side the forest was 
 to be seen, and here and there an opening, in the centre of which 
 was the cabin of the colonist. The smallness and newness of the 
 houses, the deadened trees, the muddy streets, and the general 
 appearance of eveiy thing, reminded me of a pioneer settlement 
 in the West. It was curious to see men from the Ehine, and 
 some from the environs of Berlin, here planted amid wild woods, 
 in cottages of the rudest construction, thatched with palm- 
 leaves. 
 
 The "Hotel" of Herr Palma was my goal, and a hearty welcome 
 
The Welcome. 333 
 
 awaited mc; for the letters of Mr. Y., in addition to the pros- 
 pect of gain from the stranger, prompted it. The German cannot 
 forget his native land ; and one glance showed me 'that, though 
 hard work must necessarily be the morning, noon, and night regime 
 of the colonist in these woods, yet here were all the appliances for 
 amusement, — a ballroom, a gallery for the orchestra, and a ten-pin 
 alley. Mine host sent immediately for the schoolmaster, so that 
 I might receive every mark of honor and disfinguished village- 
 consideration. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — In regard to emigration from the South of the United States, 
 I here insert the circular issued by Sr. Galvao, the official agent at Rio, and coun- 
 tersigned by the Brazilian Consul-General at New York: — 
 
 "EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL. 
 "The Imperial Government loolis with sympathy and interest on American emi- 
 gration to Brazil, and is resolved to give it the most favorable consideration. Emi- 
 grants will find an abundance of fertile land, suitable for the culture of cotton, 
 sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco, rice, etc. These lands are situated in the provinces 
 of Rio Grande do Sul, Santa Catharina, Parang, Sao Paulo, Espirito Santo, and 
 Rio de .Janeiro ; and each emigrant may select his own lands. As soon as the 
 emigrant has chosen his land, it will be measured by the Government, and posses- 
 sion given on payment of the price stipulated. Unoccupied lands will be sold at 
 the rate of 23, 46, 70, or 90 cents per acre, to be paid before taking possession, 
 or sold for terms of five years, the emigrants paying six per cent, interest yearly, 
 and receiving the title of property only after having paid for the land sold. The 
 laws in force grant many favors to emigrants, such as exemption from import 
 duties on all objects of personal use, implements of trade, and agricultural im- 
 plements and machinery. Emigrants will enjoy under the Constitution of the 
 Empire all civil rights and liberties which belong to native-born Brazilians. They 
 will enjoy liberty of conscience in religious matters, and will not be persecuted 
 for their religious belief. Emigrants may become naturalized citizens after two 
 years' residence in the Empire, and will be exempt from all military duties except 
 the National Guard (militia) in the municipality. No slaves can be imported into 
 Brazil from any country whatever. Emigration of agriculturists and mechanics 
 is particularly desired. Good engineers are in demand in the Empire. Some 
 railroads are in construction and others in project: besides there are many roads 
 to be built and rivers to be navigated. On sale, at the disposal of emigrants, 
 lands of the best qualities, belonging to private persons. These lands, varying 
 in price from $1.40 to $7.00 per acre, are suitable for the growth of coffee, sugar- 
 cane, cotton, tobacco, rice, Indian corn, etc., and may be obtained in every con- 
 dition, from virgin forest to that in a complete state of cultivation." 
 
/ 
 
 Chapter xvm. 
 
 COLONIA DONNA FRANCISCA THE SCHOOL-TEACHER THE CLERGYMAN A TURK 
 
 BIBLE-DISTBIBUTION SUSPECTED A B C THE FALLEN FOREST THE HOUSE OP 
 
 THE DIRECTOR A RUNAWAY THE VILLAGE CEMETERY MORAL WANTS 
 
 ORCHIDACEOUS PLANTS CHARLATANISM SAN FRANCISCO JAIL — THE BURIAL OF 
 
 THE INNOCENT, AND THE MONEY-MAKING PADRE THE PROVINCE OF STA. CATHA- 
 
 ItlNA DESTERRO BEAUTIFUL SCENERY SHELLS AND BUTTERFLIES COAL-MINES 
 
 PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO SUL — HERDS AND HERDSMEN THE LASSO 
 
 INDIANS FORMER PROVINCIAL REVOLTS PRESENT TRANQUILLITY ASSURED BY 
 
 THE OVERTHROW OF ROSAS, AND OF THE PARAGUAYAN LOPEZ JR. 
 
 The Colonia Donna Francisca is a new enterprise, whose origin 
 may be stated in a few words. In 1843, Prince de Joinville mar- 
 ried Donna Francisca, tlie sister of tlie Emperor of Brazil. Witti 
 her hand he received, as a dower, a large forest-estate in the pro- 
 vince of Santa Catharina. A few yeai's ago, at some of the 
 watering-places of Germany, the Prince met with Senator Schroeder, 
 of Hamburg, who proposed to him a plan for making his dower 
 profitable, — viz. : to grant a certain portion of land to a company, 
 who should form a colony upon it. The Prince granted nine square 
 leagues, reserving a certain number of acres for himself in the most 
 desirable situations. The company was formed, and agreed to 
 bring out some sixteen hundred colonists within a given time. 
 From March, 1851, to March, 1855, the number, according to con- 
 tract, had arrived. The greater portion of the colonists are from 
 German Switzerland, though France and Germany are represented 
 by a respectable minority. The village of Joinville contains about 
 sixty houses; in the surrounding country there are one hundred 
 and twenty buildings, and others in construction. After deducting 
 deaths, there are something like fifteen hundred inhabitants in this 
 colony; while there are a considerable number of French, and 
 
 French Swiss, in an adjoining colony founded by Prince de Joinville 
 834 
 
The Teacher a^d the Clergyman. 335 
 
 on his own lands. Two-thirds of all the colonists are doubtless 
 Protestants, while the other third are Romanists. 
 
 What will be the success of the colony remains to be seen. The 
 colonists, with few exceptions, are not of the first class who seek 
 the Xew World; and doubtless the compan}-, wishing to fulfil their 
 contract as to numbers, were not by any means careful in the 
 selection of the emigi-ants. They are obliged to pay for their land, 
 which is much dearer than in the United States, and, having the 
 thick forests to fell, are soon out of funds. Their distance from 
 any market, and the impossibility of obtaining remunerating ci'ops 
 until the hard labors of the pioneer are performed in the unbi-oken 
 wild wood, operate powerfully against all but the most courageous 
 hearts. With lands, however, (which the company has now ob- 
 tained,) away from the low district bordering the river, the prospect 
 will be brighter. I am nevertheless convinced that the best means 
 of colonizing Brazil is not by private speculation in village-lots and 
 farming-grounds. 
 
 Herr Palma returned, accompanied by the school-teacher. The 
 latter was a dandified-looking gentleman, dressed in the latest 
 Parisian fashion, but withal a person not wanting in ability or in 
 acquirements; for at bis rooms I found chemical apparatus, with 
 which he was constantly experimenting, and I also ascertained 
 that he was an engineer and an artist of no ordinary merit. He 
 offered his services to go with me to the Lutheran clergyman, and 
 to be at my disposition generally. To the clei-gyman I had n( 
 letters. In a few moments I was at his house, which was most 
 scantily furnished: indeed, I have rarely seen in the backwoods of 
 the United States a minister surrounded with so little comfort, or 
 so few of the necessaries of life. He spoke neither French nor 
 Portuguese, and his stock of English exceeded very little my stock 
 of German; so that I had great difficulty in making him compre- 
 hend my mission. I attempted to be more explicit through the 
 teacher, to whom I spoke in French, ■which he translated into Ger- 
 man. Still he did not seem to comprehend, and I left his house 
 feeling somewhat discouraged at my reception, especially when I 
 contrasted it with the warm co-operation which I had received 
 from the Lutheran clergyman at Petropolis. 
 
 In the mean time a rumor ran through the village that a 
 
336 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 strano-er Avitb Bibles had arrived, and when I returned to the little 
 inn I had as much as I could do to attend to the visitors. Anaong 
 them was an accomplished and refined lady, the daughter of an 
 LL.D. of Hamburg, and wife of the head-director of Prince de 
 Joinville's colony, which must not be confounded witb the Ham- 
 burg colony in Joinville. My German Bibles and Portuguese 
 Testaments were soon exhausted, but I had some still left at San 
 Francisco, for which they paid me the money, and I sent them the 
 next day after my return. 
 
 The clergyman now joined us. He was a little more cordial 
 this time. I invited him and the school-teacher to take tea with 
 me. During the repast, the latter left us a few moments, and 
 then returned; but while he was absent, the clergyman said to me, 
 " How did you become acquainted with the teacher ? He is a turn- 
 coat." I then understood his reserve, and non-comprehension of 
 my remarks which I had made in the presence of the pedagogue 
 at the parsonage. The teacher was born in Bulgaria, — was a 
 Mohammedan : he afterwai'd went to Germany, and finally came 
 to Brazil with some Belgian savants whose object was scientific 
 exploration. The young man became attached to a Brazilian girl 
 twelve 3^ears of age, renounced his religion, became a Romanist, 
 and married her. I could still further appreciate the cautious 
 movements of the clergyman, when he informed me that he him- 
 self was a Bohemian by birth, was educated in Vienna, and was 
 the means of turning some seventy Papists to Protestantism, 
 and on this account he M'as expelled from Austria. Although I 
 received the kindest of treatment from the schoolmaster, truth 
 compels me to say that among the people of the village he has 
 the reputation of being Roman Catholic only in theory, for in 
 practice he was as much of a Turk as if he resided in the heart of 
 the Ottoman Empire. 
 
 The company ai'ound me was a mixed one, some being Romanists, 
 others Protestants. In the course of the evening an honest-look- 
 ing Bernese Swiss came into the room. I saluted him, and spoke 
 of the Bible, but observed that be viewed me with a cautious eye. 
 Soon I saw him and the pastor go out together. They returned in 
 a few minutes; and a short time after the Bernese took me aside 
 and said, "I am convinced that you have a good object in view. I 
 
Suspected of being a Jesuit. 
 
 33'i 
 
 was afraid you -were a Jesuit," (he had not forgotten the Sondor. 
 hiind in his own country;) "but the j^astor assures me that you aj-o 
 not. I wish to do good. I once hoped to be a missionary, but 
 earl}' circumstances prevented, and therefore I must be content to 
 work through others : so please accept this small sum of money, 
 and all that I wish you to do is to spread the good news of the 
 bhissed Saviour." After he went awaj^, the pastor handed me 
 ano''.her small sum, which the same Bernese had given him for me. 
 The total was onl}- nine francs; but that sum is equal to one hun- 
 dred francs in the United States. I afterward sent him, from San 
 
 A GERMAN EMIGRANT'S CABIN AT DONNA FRANCISCA. 
 
 Francisco do Sul, sufficient Bibles in return for his gift, and hope 
 that he will thus be more immediately made the instrument of 
 spreading "the good news of the blessed Saviour." 
 
 It was late when my visitors retired. The next morning, at 
 
 22 
 
338 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 an early hour, mounted upon a wild-looking horse, and dashing 
 throuirh mud and mire, I went to breakfast with the director of 
 the Hamburgese (the Joinville, not the Prince's) colony. As I 
 rode along, I saw on either hand the small cottages of the colonists, 
 (distinguished from Brazilian houses by their chimnej^s,) reared 
 amid the overshadowing, broad-leafed banana-trees, in this land of 
 no winter. But they have a hard lot, for the forest-land is difficult 
 to clear; the soil is not so rich for cereals and other productions 
 which they have been accustomed to cultivate, and, above all, the 
 people are poor, and, many of them being from the lowest classes 
 in Germany, quite a number give themselves up to drink. It was 
 on this latter account that the pastor solicited German temperance- 
 tracts. 
 
 As I passed one house, in the midst of hundreds of palms and 
 other magnificent trees, I heard the sweet sound of a mother 
 teaching her little one to lisp its ABC. 
 
 It was a new sight for me to behold the primeval forest of the 
 tropics being prostrated under the fell swoop of the woodman's 
 axe. On every side, nobJe palms and rare and gigantic parasites 
 were hurled in wild confusion to the ground. Near the house of 
 Mr. n., I saw one of these wood-kings lifting his solitary head 
 amid his fiillen companions. The monarch was crowned and fes- 
 tooned with magnificent orchidas and clambering wild vines. His 
 own bright-gi'een foliage spoke of life and vigor; but the dripping 
 dew-drops seemed like falling tears mourning the desolation 
 around. But, to make this world a fit habitation for man, 
 nature, as well as man, must make her sacrifices : so utility recon- 
 ciled me. 
 
 The little long-tailed birds (closely resembling the whidah-birds 
 of Africa) that I had often seen pining in cages were here in glorious 
 freedom, playing before me, gracefully floating from fern to fern, 
 or swinging in fearless glee upon the pendent parasitic vanilla 
 which loaded the morning air with its rich perfume. 
 
 The house of Mr. H. was prettily situated, and, in this remote 
 corner of the world, it was as interesting as it was strange to con 
 over, in his little parlor, the last London "Illustrated News," 
 "La Presse," and the Paris "Illustration." Madame II., from La 
 Belle France, demonstrated that others besides American women 
 
The Village Cemetery. 
 
 d39 
 
 could enter the backwoods and undergo with contentment the 
 hardships and the excitements of a pioneer life. 
 
 When Mr. H. and myself were ready to return to the village, our 
 horses were brought to the door; but mine had the bad taste to 
 break his halter, and, snorting a loud adieu, away he went, career- 
 ing along the road toward Joinville. His free movement, crested 
 mane, and distended nostril, made him look for all the woi'ld like 
 one of the steeds on the Elgin marbles; only he was minus his 
 rider. As he disappeared from sight, he flung his heels high in the 
 air, and gave a series of farewell kicks and other antics Avhich were 
 enough to provoke laughter from even brooding melancholy. Mr. 
 11. kindly furnished me with another horse, and the last that I saw 
 of my steed was just as we reached Joinville. He had entered a 
 small sugar-plantation, and was enjoying a most delightful repast 
 of the tender young cane. 
 
 Before entering the village, we turned aside from the road, 
 ascended a forest-crowned hill, upon whose sides was the rural 
 cemetery where were buried the colonists of the Hamburg settle- 
 ment. It was a sad yet beautiful spot. The morning sun had 
 risen high above the forests, yet the dense foliage was still 
 sparkling with matinal freshness. Each day and each year the 
 sun will shine upon that remote little cemeterj-; but those who 
 there sleep will never again behold the morning glories of this 
 
340 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 bright land. The earth was yet fresh that covered the remains 
 of one of the finest men of the colony : a few wreaths immortellei 
 had been hung with rustic taste by some kindly hand near the 
 humble grave; but no father or mother or gentle sister Avould 
 ever shed the silent tear over the sleeping dead. 
 
 From the same hill we had a fine view of the village. The 
 living and the dead are thus brought near each other; but man is 
 a forgetful creature, and the lessons of cemeteries and new-made 
 graves are as easily forgotten in this retired nook as amid the busy 
 hum of the vast city. 
 
 Before leaving the colony, I visited the school, which is sustained 
 by the common-school fund of the province, and I found that the 
 Bulgarian had not been neglectful of his little charge, which he 
 instructed in both German and Portuguese. 
 
 In wandering through Joinville, I called upon a colonist who 
 has a brother in New York, and, while in his house, a gentle- 
 manly-looking man entered. By his conversation I ascertained 
 that he was a physician. So soon as he knew who I was, and iu 
 what cajjacity I had visited the colony, he took me warmly by the 
 hand, and I learned that he was one of those physicians who care 
 for the souls as well as for the bodies of their patients. My inter- 
 course with him was very pleasant; for, in addition to his piety, 
 I found him a gentleman of cultivated mind, having been educated 
 at the Universit}^ of Halle ; and that which particularly interested 
 me was that he had, apart from his professional studies, attended 
 the lectures of Tholuck. 
 
 He, as well as the Lutheran clergj^man, highly approved of the 
 proposition of another German pastor in the Empire, which is to 
 have an ordained missionary colporteur to go from colony to 
 colony throughout Brazil, with Bibles and tracts, encouraging 
 such communities as have pastors ; by the printed Word and reli- 
 gious works rallying those who are without a clergyman ; and 
 performing the rites of marriage where, for want of a minister, 
 this — so essential to the purity of a community — has been to a 
 great extent neglected. 
 
 There are German colonies scattered here and there throughout 
 the whole length of the Brazilian sea-coast, and there is, from the 
 nature of the case, a loud call upon the evangelical Germans of our 
 
Orchidaceous Plants. 
 
 341 
 
 land to care foi" the spiritual welfare of their countrymen in Brazil. 
 I believe that such a work, carried on by a few of the Lutheran 
 churches of the United States, would redound in great good. They 
 could thus direct the operations of the man who should be called 
 to this labor better than a large benevolent society that has fifty 
 other lands in view. Such an enterprise is of the most imperious 
 necessity, not only for keeping alive evangelical piety, but the 
 knowledge of Protestant Christianity. 
 
 On returning to the hotel, I found that a large basket of orchi- 
 daceous plants of the rarest species had been prepared according 
 to m}' order, which I sent as a present to a kind friend at Rio de 
 Janeiro. The lot, with the basket, cost but three dollars : in England 
 they would have brought a 
 fabulous price, considering tho 
 rage that now exists among 
 royal and noble horticul- 
 turalists for these curious 
 subjects of Flora's kingdom. 
 They can be easily trans- 
 ported over the ocean, if care 
 be taken that all contact with 
 salt water be avoided. 1 found 
 that there was a naturalist 
 not fiir from Rio who often 
 sent orchidse to England. 
 Brazil is exceedingly rich in 
 parasites and air-plants; but 
 none among the vast variety 
 is more graceful than the 
 vanilla, which is found in 
 greater or less abundance 
 from the northern limit of 
 the Empire to the province 
 of St. Catharine's. Its little 
 star-like flower, its pretty leaf, 
 and its delicious fragrance, 
 
 make it an object of beauty and of admiration. I, howevei*, could 
 never understand why the vanilla-bean should be imported into 
 
 THE VANILLA. 
 
342 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Rio from Mexico and Central America via New York, when the 
 plant itself abounded in Brazil. 
 
 I left the colony with sincere regret that I could not remain 
 longer and see more of the people; but, according to the announce- 
 ment, the steamer which was to take me back to Santos was to 
 arrive the next morning. So I bade farewell to my newly -made 
 friends, and, after several hours' hard rowing in the cramped-up, 
 narrow canoe, arrived at San Francisco do Sul. 
 
 The steam-packet was not in the harbor on the appointed day, 
 and I passed the time very agreeably with Mr. V. and a number 
 of Germans, one of whom was a young physician educated at 
 Breslau, but was about to retire in disgust from the colony and 
 irom Brazil. He was certainly more adapted to a formed than to 
 a forming societ}". He alleged, as his principal reason, that Brazil 
 was a great field for charlatanism; that pretenders and quacks 
 could always succeed better than the regular scientifically edu- 
 cated. He instanced the case of a barber of the Schleswig-Holstein 
 army, who emigrated to the new province of Parana and is now 
 the phj^sician in highest repute in that region. I was further 
 informed that this ci-devant knight of the razor had recently ap- 
 peared in the theatre at Paranagua with a decoration bespangling 
 his breast, pretending that it was conferred in Europe for his dis- 
 tinguished surgical services ! My Breslau friend was evidently a 
 cultivated man, and well read in his profession, but home-sickness 
 was doubtless the disease that made him look at every thing with 
 distorted vision; for I doubt if there can be found on the Western 
 Continent a countiy where the Government and the medical 
 foculty are more strict than in Brazil. Thei-e are successful 
 charlatans under the yery eyes of the medical schools in Paris, 
 and it is not therefore strange that examples occur in a vast, 
 thinly-populated country. 
 
 Often, leaving my companions, I would stray alone into the 
 foliaged walks which are found' on every side, and there I could 
 be as retired as if a thousand miles from the haunts of man. 
 A favorite p ace was the ruins of an old convent on the summit 
 of a vine-clad hill, near which were the new foundations of 
 an hospital erected as an expiatory offering by some rich 
 lady of San Francisco : she having died, her pious work, 1 
 
The Burial of the Innocent. 343 
 
 fear, will soon be in the same condition as that of the 
 Jesuits, 
 
 In one of my rambles I paid a visit to the jail, the onlj^ occu- 
 pant of which was a German Avho, in a fit of anger, had struck 
 the director of the Hamburg colony. Kow, it is perfectly allow- 
 able in Brazil to call a man very hard names and cheat him as 
 much as 3'ou please with impunity; but to strike a man is beyond 
 all bounds of deeenc}', and the jail or some other punishment is 
 sure to follow. The prisoner seemed very happy under the cir- 
 cumstances, having a finer room than that which I occupied at 
 Herr Sneider's, and perfect freedom to go where he pleased at 
 certain hours of the day. 
 
 From the jail I entered the large chui-ch, situated near the 
 centre of the village. The floor was so constructed of wood that 
 it could be lifted up in sections, which was always done when 
 interments took place. Here for nearly two centuries pcoj'jle had 
 been buried who died with the fond hope of being brought nearer 
 to heaven by having their bodies within these precincts jnade by 
 man's hands. An old negro was diffo-ino; a arrave, and each time 
 his heavy hoe (the sj>ade is rarely used) went down, it ruthlessly 
 crunched and smashed through skulls and ribs and whatever else 
 is fragile in our poor human frame. The fragments were pitched 
 up as common clay. 
 
 I Avas disturbed in my meditations of this scene bj' the fat, jolly, 
 round padre, who, with a giggling face, gave ordei'S, in a loud and 
 any thing but solemn voice, to an assistant who was bearing a cofiin 
 to the centre of the church. It was a small coffin, yet it was large 
 enough. It was uncovered, and in it lay, in the slumber of death, a 
 little girl of twelve months. A sweet smile was upon her features; 
 her tiny hands were clasped together, and her eyes were open and 
 beaming with such a lovely expression that they seemed to be 
 gazing into heaven. The tinsel and the ornaments with which 
 the body was bedecked I scarcely saw. Three women, clad in deep 
 mourning, and with mantillas of richest broadcloth trailing from 
 their heads to the ground, swept noiselessly through the church, 
 giving one lingering look at the innocent dead. The priest ap- 
 proached and saluted me. I had seen him upon my arrival, and 
 made bold to make a few inquiries in regard to the child. He in- 
 
844 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 formed me that he was just propjiring to say mass for it: I, however, 
 took uj) tlic words of our Saviour, and said, "Of such is the Iving- 
 dom of heaven," and that the little one redeemed by the Saviour 
 was already an angel in the realms of light, and that there was no 
 need of saying mass for such, even waiving the question of right to 
 say mass for any one. He replied with an e verdade, senhor, but, 
 notwithstanding, Avent on to his work, — because he made by it 
 money, — because the church is corrupt, and man seeks out new 
 inventions rather than follow the plain precepts of truth. 
 
 After speaking with him against intermural burials, I espied a 
 pulpit, and asked him if he preached: he answered, "Sometimes, 
 especially at the festas." To all my remarks on preaching the 
 righteousness of Christ only, he bowed, grinned, uttered many 
 e verdades and muito ohrigados, (it is very true; I am much obliged 
 to you;) and I left, profoundly convinced that a moral earthquake 
 will be necessary to shake off the indifference of the. Brazilian 
 priesthood before their minds will be directed aright. 
 
 The steamer entered the bay, and I turned my face northward. 
 
 The province of St. Catharine, in which the colon}'- of Donna 
 Francisca is situated, is the smallest in the southern part of the 
 Empire. In fertility and salubrity it is second to none. Its re- 
 sources, however, have been developed only fifty or sixty miles from 
 the coast: beyond this, the aborigines still abound, and farther in 
 the interior they are Avarlike, and cherish a deadly hatred to the 
 white man. Yet I would not convey, through this statement, the 
 impression that the province is a howling wilderness; for the tOAvns 
 on the sea-coast, the villages, and the flourishing small plantations, 
 more remote from the littoral, and the numerous colonies founded 
 by the Imperial and provincial governments, by private companies 
 and by single individuals, on the belt of land stretching from the 
 Rio San Francisco do Sul to the Mampituba, all speak of a certain 
 amount of ciA^ilization and progress. The population is estimated 
 at ninety thousand. 
 
 The capital of the province is often called Santa Catharina, though 
 its proper and full name is Nossa Senhora do Desterro, which may 
 be translated either "Our Ladj' of the Desert" or of "Banishment." 
 It is situated upon the island which gives the name to the province, 
 and its harbor, though small, is compared with that of Eio de 
 
Saxta Catharina. 
 
 345 
 
 Janeiro for excellent! and beauty. Desterro is the seat of a 
 considerable trade; yet the planters are not engaged in grand 
 agricultural operations, as in the provinces farther noi'th. Tho 
 coffee exported thence enjoys a high reputation, and is of a 
 superior quality. 
 
 ^^^r^^^-^^{^'- 
 
 .\i -- 
 
 The island of Santa 
 Catharina is mountain- 
 ous and finely wooded, 
 and the scenery with 
 which the city of Des- 
 terro is sujTOunded has been the 
 admiration of every traveller who 
 has been privileged to visit thih 
 picturesque region. A friend who 
 resided many years ago in the 
 islands of the Pacific, on visitinjr 
 St. Catharine's wrote home his im- 
 pressions, stating that the general 
 aspect of all around him was so 
 like the South Seas that he felt as if he were suddenly trans- 
 ported thither and were again amid the scenes of bygone years. 
 He added, "The palm-tree tossing its plumed branches in the 
 wind, the broad leaves of the banana rustling in the breeze, the 
 
340 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 perfume of the orange-blossoms and Cape jessamine, the sugar, 
 cane, the coffee-plant and cotton-bush, the palma Christi and guava, 
 the light canoe upon the water, and the rude huts dotting the 
 shore, — all hurried me in imagination to the Marquesas, the Society, 
 and the Sandwich Islands." 
 
 There is a commerce here in artificial flowers made from 
 beetles' wings, fish-scales, sea-shells, and feathers, which attract 
 the attention of every visitor. These are made by the mulheres 
 (women) of almost every class, and thus they obtain not only 
 pin-money, but some amass wealth in the traffic. The wreaths, 
 necklaces, and bracelets made from the scales of a large fish are 
 not only curious, but are exceedingly beautiful. Their effect at 
 night is that of the most brilliant set of pearls, and they are as 
 much superior in splendor to the small specimens of fish-scale 
 flowers manufactured in Ireland, and exposed in the Sj'denham 
 Palace, London, as the diamond surpasses the glisten of cut- 
 glass. 
 
 Not only tropic fruits and flowers are here to be found in profu- 
 sion, but the choicest horticultural productions of Europe can be 
 cultivated to perfection; and such is the salubrity of the air, that 
 Desterro is often visited by invalids from the more northern pro- 
 vinces, and even from more distant countries. 
 
 The natural history of Santa Catharina is peculiarly interesting. 
 Among the shells abounding On the coast there is a species oi Jilui'ex, 
 from the animal of which a beautiful crimson color may be ex- 
 tracted. It is, however, the department of entomology which has 
 excited the most lively admiration of the naturalists who have 
 visited the province. The butterflies are the most splendid in the 
 world. Langsdorff says they are not like the tame and puny 
 lepidopters of Europe, which can be caught by means of a small 
 piece of silk. On the contrary, they rise liigh in the air, with a 
 brisk and rapid flight. Sometimes they light and repose on flowers 
 at the tops of trees, and rarely risk themselves within reach of the 
 hand. They appear to be constantly on their guard, and, if caught 
 at all, it must be when on the wing, by means of a net at the ex- 
 tremity of a long rod of cane. Some species are obseiwed to live 
 in society, hundreds and thousands of them being sometimes found 
 together. These generally prefer the lower districts and the banks 
 
COAL-MINES AND RiO GkANDE DO SuL. 347 
 
 of streams. When one of thera is caught and fastened by a pin on 
 the surftice of the sand, swarms of the same species will gather 
 round him, and may be caught at pleasure. 
 
 It has been rumored for many years that mines of coal exist 
 within the bounds of the province; but, notwithstanding some 
 examinations by order of Government, no satisfactory discoveries 
 have yet been made. Doctor Parigot, who was employed to make 
 surveys in the province in 1841, reported the existence of a car- 
 boniferous stratum, from twenty to thirty miles in width and about 
 three hundred in length, running from north to south through the 
 province. The best vein of coal he opened he jDronounced half 
 bituminous, and situated between thick strata of the hydrous oxide 
 of iron and bituminous schist; but hitherto there has been no very 
 encouraging result from these explorations. In the neighboring 
 province of Rio Grande do Sul, coal of a better kind, though some- 
 what argillaceous, was found about the same time at a place called 
 Herval, not far from S. Leopoldo. But in 1861 the most important 
 mineral discovery ever made in Brazil was made by Mr. Nathaniel 
 Plant, in Eio Grande do Sul; and the name of Candiota, in connec- 
 tion with coal, will be as famous in Brazil as Cardiff in England. 
 For full accounts of this great discovery, see Appendix H. 
 
 The province of Sao Pedro do Rio Grande do Sul (more com- 
 monly known as simply Rio Grande do Sul) constitutes the extreme 
 southern portion of the Empire of Brazil. It is so called from the 
 first parochial Church of St. Peter, (S. Pedro,) and the river 
 called Grande, (see on the map Barra do Rio Grande,) near whose 
 margins it was erected. In many of the official papers of the Em- 
 pire, this province occurs as S. Pedro, to distinguish it from Eio 
 Grande do Norte. In the salubrity of its climate and the fertility 
 of its soil it resembles the Republic of Uruguay, upon which it 
 borders. It is admirably adapted for European immigration, and 
 the most successful of all the colonies established by the Imperial 
 Government is that of S. Leopoldo, founded in 1825, which to-day 
 numbers a busy and prosperous population of more than eleven 
 thousand souls. 
 
 All the cereals and fruits of Central Europe can be cultivated in 
 this jjrovince, and formerly immense quantities of wheat were 
 grown, so that not only was there suflicient for home-supply, but 
 
348 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 for exportation. This branch of agriculture has now so dwindled 
 that flour is, to some extent, imported from the United States. 
 
 The great wealth of Eio Grande do Sul consists of that which 
 constituted the riches of the patriarchs, — flocks and herds. The 
 Guachos of Buenos Aj^res are not moi'e expert on horseback or 
 more skilful in the use of the lasso than are the Eio Grandenses, 
 •whose occupation from childhood is the care and culture of the 
 herds of cattle which roam the vast campinas or prairies. It has 
 been estimated that in the province of Rio Grande do Sul, not 
 mentioning parts of Santa Catharina and S. Paulo which are 
 devoted to the same purposes, five hundred thousand cattle are 
 slaughtered annually for the sake of preserving their hides and 
 flesh, while as many more are driven northward for ordinary con- 
 sumption. Most of the came secca, or jerked beef, in common use 
 throughout Brazil, is prepared here. After the hide is taken from 
 the ox, the flesh is skinned off" in a similar manner from the Avhole 
 side, in strips about half an inch in thickness. The meat, in this 
 form, is stretched in the sun to dry. But very little salt is used in 
 its preservation, and, when sufficiently cured, it is shij)ped to all 
 the maritime provinces, and is the only kind of preserved beef 
 used in the country. Stacks of this meat (emitting no very agi'ee- 
 able odor) lie piled up, like cords of wood, in the pi^ovision-houses 
 of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 In the financial year 1853-54, Rio Grande do Sul exported the 
 value of near $3,000,000 in hides, horns, hair, and wool, $1,000,000 
 of which were imported into the United States. 
 
 The character of the people is somewhat peculiar, owing to their, 
 circumstances and mode of life. They are generally tall, of an 
 active and energetic appearance, with handsome features, and of a 
 lighter skin than prevails among the inhabitants of the northern 
 portions of the Empire. Both sexes are accustomed, from child- 
 hood, to ride on horseback, and consequently acquire great skill in 
 the management of those noble animals upon which they take their 
 amusements as well as perform their journeys and pursue the wild 
 cattle of their plains. 
 
 The use of the lasso is learned among the earliest sports of boy- 
 hood, and is continued until an almost inconceivable dexterity is 
 acquired. Little children, armed with their lasso or bolas, make 
 
Lassoing Wild Cattle. 
 
 349 
 
 war upon the chickens, ducks, and geese of the farmyard, until 
 their ambition and strength lead them into a wider field. 
 
 For the pursuit of wild cattle the horses are admirably trained, 
 so that, when the lasso is thrown, they knoAV precisely what to do. 
 Sometimes, in the case of a furious animal, the rider checks the 
 horse and dismounts, while the bull is running out the length of 
 his raw-hide rope. The horse wheels round and braces himself to 
 sustain the shock Avhich the momentum of the caj)tured animal 
 must inevitably give. The bull, not expecting to be brought up so 
 
 THE LASSO. 
 
 suddenly, is thrown sprawling to the ground. Eising to his feet, 
 he rushes upon the horse to gore him; but the latter keeps at a 
 distance, until the bull, finding that nothing is to be accomplished 
 in this way, again attempts to flee, Avhen the rope a second time 
 brings him to the ground. Thus the poor animal is worried, until 
 he is wholly within the power of his captors. 
 
 Nor is it only in Eio Grande do Sul or San Paulo that scenes of 
 this kind may be observed. They were formerly witnessed in Eio 
 de Janeiro itself At the Matadouro publico, situated on the Praya 
 d'Ajuda, before the municipal- butcheries were removed to the spa- 
 cious abattoirs at San Christovao, vast numbers of cattle were daily 
 slaughtered. Among the droves that reached the capital from the 
 
350 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 distant sertoes was occasionally an ox so wild and powerful that 
 he was not disposed to surrender life without a desperate struggle. 
 He would break from his enclosure and dash into the streets of the 
 city, threatening destruction to whoever opposed his course. A 
 hoi'se, accoutred with saddle and bridle, and with a lasso fastened 
 to him by a strong girth, stood ready for the emergencj^, and was 
 mounted in an instant to give jiursuit. The chase was widely dif- 
 ferent in its circumstances from that which occurs in the open 
 campos; but perhaps no interest was lost in the rapid turning of 
 corners of streets, the heavy clatter of hoofs upon the pavement, 
 and the hasty accumulation of spectators. In a short time, usually, 
 the noose of the lasso whirled around the horns of the fugitive, 
 an area was cleared, and the scene already described was enacted, 
 until the runaway ox was killed on the spot or led away in triumph 
 to the slaugliter. The lasso is, moreover, in frequent use in the 
 Campo de Santa Anna, in the same city, where vast herds of mules 
 
 ^\"^v::..<^^^^.^lv^uvvn' 
 
 THE GUAYCURUS. 
 
 are frequently congregated for sale. The purchaser has only to 
 indicate which animal out of the untamed multitude he would like 
 to examine, and the tropeiro soon has him " slippernoosed" at the 
 end of his long rope, by which he holds or leads him at will. 
 
 This portion of Brazil was inhabited at the period of the settle- 
 ment by two peculiar tribes of savages. On the eastern jiart of 
 
Tranquillity Secured by the Fall of Rosas. 351 
 
 Bio Grande do Sul and in St. Catharine's were the Carijos, who were 
 said to be the most humane of all the aborigines, and were the 
 most accessible to European manners and cultivation. North of 
 the province under consideration were the Guaycurus, — Indian ca- 
 valry, — so called because the Portuguese found them ready to give 
 battle on horseback. "Where they obtained these horses is an un- 
 explained mystery, but doubtless they were j)rocured either 
 through the Spaniards on the Pacific coast, or from some of the 
 earliest settlements on the La Plata. I have in my possession an 
 old picture of Guaj'curus charging regulars, and their position 
 reminds one of that resorted to by the wild Camanches of New 
 Mexico. 
 
 Eio Grande do Sul is in population and commerce the fifth or 
 sixth province in the Empire. Until the I'apid augmentation of 
 exports from Para, she occupied with certainty the fifth place. 
 
 For a series of years Eio Grande was in open rebellion against 
 the Imperial Government, to which fact allusion has already been 
 made. The effect of this struggle was the proclamation of free- 
 dom to the slaves b}^ both parties, so that the number of those 
 in bondage was greatly diminished. The proximity of this pro- 
 vince to the Spanish-American Governments doubtless did much, 
 before the Empire of Brazil was fully established in strength, to 
 incline it to republican notions, and it was thought at one time 
 that Rio Grande would sever itself from the Empire, and, like the 
 Banda Oriental, or Uruguay, (once a province of Brazil,) become 
 an independent State. But, betvS'Cen generous concessions and 
 vigorous measures, Rio Grande was brought back to allegiance, 
 and to day none of her sister-provinces excel her in loyalty to the 
 existing regime. Brazil, howev^er, has taken effectual means and 
 preventives that her southern border be no longer distux'bed. The 
 tyrant Rosas* was overthrown through the aid of the Brazilian 
 
 * Allusion having been made to tile part which Brazil took in the overthrow of 
 the Nero-Borgia of the New World, the following note from Mr. Hadfield's work 
 will give an outline of the history of affairs in the Argentine Confederation : — 
 
 "In January, 1831, the provinces of Buenos Ayres, Entre Rios, Corrientes, and 
 Santa F6, entered into a federal compact, to which all the other provinces at 
 subsequent periods became parties. The union was a voluntary alliance. No 
 general Constitution was promulgated, and the adhesion of the several Jnembers 
 
352 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 army and navy, and Brazil is now (1866) eudsavoring to conquer 
 a peace by overthrowing a new despot,— Lopez Jr. Brazil is en- 
 was left to be secured by the resources of the person who might obtain the direc- 
 tion of affairs. This Argentine Confederation, like the Republic which it bad 
 succeeded, soon fell into a state of anarchy; and it was not till the election of 
 General Rosas as governor or captain-general, with almost absolute power, in 
 1835, that even temporary quiet was secured. But cruelty and despotism marked 
 his sway at home, and his ambition, which continually prompted him to endeavors 
 to extend his power over the whole country watered by the La Plata and the Parana, 
 led him into disputes with foreign powers; and these ultimately brought about 
 his downfall. 
 
 "On the death of Francia, Dictator of Paraguay, Rosas refused to acknowledge 
 the independence of that power, insisting that it should join the Argentine Con- 
 federation. At the same time he refused to allow the navigation of the Parang by 
 vessels bound to Paraguay. Lopez, the new Dictator of Paraguay, therefore entered 
 into alliance with the Banda Oriental, now called Uruguay, with which Rosas was 
 at war. These powers applied for assistance to Brazil. The war was prolonged 
 until the whole country on both sides of the Plata and the Paranii was in a state 
 of confusion. Great Britain volunteered her mediation, but it was rejected by 
 Rosas. England and France tried various measures with Rosas from 1845 to 1849, 
 but in vain. On the final withdrawal of the two great powers in 1850, Brazil 
 determined on active interference. Accordingly, toward the close of 1850, Brazil, 
 Uruguay, and Paraguay entered into a treaty, to which Corrientes and Entre Rios, 
 as represented by Genei'.al Urquiza, became parties, by which they bound them- 
 selves to continue hostilities until they had effected the deposition of Rosas, 
 'whose power and tyranny' they declared to be 'incompatible with the peace 
 and happiness of this part of the world.' Early in the spring of 1851, a Brazilian 
 fleet blockaded Buenos Ayres, and soon after an Argentine force commanded by 
 Urquiza crossed the Uruguay. General Oribe, who commanded the army of Rosas 
 at Montevideo, capitulated. His soldiers for the most part joined the army of 
 Urquiza, who — at the head of a force amounting, it is said, to seventy thousand 
 men — crossed into Buenos Ayres. A general engagement took place on the plains 
 of Moron, February 2, 1852, when the army of Rosas was entirely defeated. Rosas, 
 who had commanded in person, succeeded in escaping from the field; and, in the 
 dress of a peasant, he reached in safety the house of the British minister at Buenos 
 Ayres. From thence, with his daughter, he proceeded on board H.B.M. steamer 
 Locust, and on the 10th of February sailed in the Conflict steamer for England." 
 
 Note for i566.— The Paraguay War of 1865-66.— In 1862, Lopez Sr., the 
 second Dictator of Paraguay, died. In 1859 he had given the Brazilian Govern- 
 ment difficulty by his non-compliance with the solemn treaties made in 1850, 
 which granted the right of way for steamers going to Matto Grosso up the river 
 Paraguay, and also by his refusal to settle the boundary-line question between 
 Paraguay and Brazil. He thus treated the power which had saved Paraguay from 
 the tyrant Rosas. However, matters were bridged over, because Brazil made 
 earnest diplomatic efforts, accompanied by a strong show of force. In 1862, 
 Lopez Sr. died. Lopez Jr. assumed the reins of government, and became third 
 Dictator of Paraguay. He then sent for mechanics from Europe, imported vast 
 quantities of machinery and iron, nominally for the railway from Asuncion to 
 
Hope of Future Development. 353 
 
 gaged in a just war, though not one of her seeking, and the downfiiU 
 of Lopez the younger will be promotive of as great a benefit as the 
 vietorj' over the former disturber of South American peace, — Eosas. 
 
 Villa Rica, but in reality, as subsequent events have shown, for war purposes, 
 as he seems to have been filled with hatred of Brazil for presuming, through the 
 Brazilian statesman Paranhos, to interfere in Paraguayan affairs. In 18ti3-64, 
 the Banda Oriental, or Republic of Uruguay, became torn by internal faction : 
 the Blancos (the ins) were opposed by the Colorados (the outs), led by General 
 Flores. Brazilian citizens in Uruguay sutfered at the hands of the Blancos, and 
 Brazil was compelled, after long and peaceable protestation, to send down Vice- 
 Admiral Visconde de Tamander^ with the Brazilian fleet to protect her citizens 
 She did this effectually by aiding Flores, and the government of Uruguay fell 
 into the hands of the Colorados. Forced to take up arms to protect her subjects 
 in Uruguay from ill treatment and extortion, she showed by her moderation in the 
 hour of triumph that her practice was consistent with her profession, and that 
 no ideas of conquest or oppression had mingled with the exaction of the repara- 
 tion she had so long and vainly sought by peaceful means. But Lopez, before 
 the Blanco party fell, had said to Brazil, "If you attack Uruguay, I will attack 
 you." This was a mere pretext, as his ample preparations showed. On the loth 
 of November, 1864, without declaration of war, Lopez caused the Brazilian mail- 
 steamer Marquis de Olinda, on her way to Matto Grosso, to be seized and brought 
 back to Asuncion, and her passengers, including the President of Matto Grosso and 
 a number of Brazilian army and navy officers, to be put into prison, where they are 
 to this day, (March, 1866.) The Brazilian Minister, Vianna de Lima, could not 
 obtain his passports without the intervention of the United States Minister, Mr. 
 Washburn. Paraguay steamers then went up the river, bombarded and seized 
 Coirabra, took Albuquerque, Corumbii, and other points in Brazil, and committed 
 great outrages upon an almost defenceless people. Of course Brazil had no other 
 resource than to fly to arms. But Brazil, like all large bodies, moved slowly, and 
 in the mean time Lopez, (whose object should have been to secure the neutrality 
 of the Argentine Confederation,) without judgment and without knowledge of 
 international law, demanded from the Argentine Confederation passage for the 
 Paraguayan arms across the Argentine State of Corrientes. The President (Mitre) 
 of the Confederation replied, in efl"ect, "We are at peace with Brazil: it cannot 
 be done." At this Lopez seized, without declaration of war, steamers belonging 
 to the Confederation. Uruguay, the Argentine Confederation, and Brazil were 
 then all brought into alliance, through the good ofiices of the Brazilian envoy, Sr. 
 Octaviano. On June 11, 1865, at a place on the river Parana, not far from Cor- 
 rientes, the first naval conflict took place between Paraguayans and Brazilians 
 Barroso commanded the Brazilian fleet. The odds (in number of Paraguay steamers 
 and land-batteries) were against the Brazilians; but the victory achieved was the 
 most brilliant in the annals of South America. Lopez's troops had invaded Cor- 
 rientes and Rio Grande do Sul, but were defeated at the Yatay (or Ytati) on the 
 17th of August, 1865, and at Uruguayana (Rio Grande do Sul) on the 18th of 
 September, 1865, the Emperor commanding in person. The great conflict at the 
 mouth of the ParanA and Paraguay will doubtless settle forever that despotism 
 in Paraguny, which has kept one of the finest countries of our glo1)e as an inland 
 Japan, without progress or development. 
 
 23 
 
CHAPTEE XIX. 
 
 JOUHNET TO SAN PAULO NIGHT-TRAVELLING SEREA DO CUBATAO — THE HEAVEN 
 
 OF THE MOON FRADE VASCONCELLOS ANT-HILLS TROPEl^OS CURIOUS 
 
 ITEMS OF TRADE — YPIRANGA CITY OF SAN PAULO LAW-STUDENTS AND CON- 
 VENTS MR. MAWE'S EXPERIENCE CONTRASTED DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY 
 
 RESPECT FOR S. PAULO THE VISIONARY HOTEL-KEEPER. 
 
 On my return from the province of Sfinta Catliarina I again 
 touched at Paranagua, and, with the usual slowness which charac- 
 terized Brazilian coast-travelling a few years ago, I came leisurely 
 to Santos, and thence proceeded to the city of San Paulo. A j^oung 
 Brazilian had the intention of accompanying me to the capital of 
 the province; but when I informed him that it was my determina- 
 tion to start for the interior the day of my arrival at Santos, he at 
 first laughed at me, considering it an impossibility, and intimated 
 that I would gladly accept the proffered hospitality of friends. 
 When he found me unmoved in my resolution, he dropped his 
 smiles, and looked at me with that pity which is bestowed upon the 
 hopelessly insane. 
 
 At half-past five o'clock in the evening I set out alone. I have 
 often heard exclamations of surprise, from those who have never 
 been in Brazil, at the very idea of journeying without a com- 
 panion in a land which their imaginations have pictured as the 
 abode of brigands and wild beasts. Though I have compassed 
 many leagues sohis, I have never met with the former, and the 
 latter have been quite harmless. My horse, in size, in his trap- 
 pings, and in general appearance, was befitting a Calmuck Tartar. 
 He had never made the acquaintance of a curry-comb, but got over 
 the fine road which leads to Cubitao with a speed worthy of a bet- 
 ter-looking animal. It was dark before I reached the bridge which 
 spans the Eio do Cubitao; and, not feeling exactly sure of a hospe- 
 daria, I rode up to a little way-side venda, and my inquiries wore 
 
 answered very satisfactorily in French. The same man I saw upon 
 8M 
 
A Zigzag Road.' 355 
 
 my return, and learned from him that he came to Brazil twenty 
 years ago under the impression that gold was as plentiful as paving- 
 stones. He directed me to an inn kept by a German beyond the 
 bridge. Having given my name at the Registro, and having paid a 
 slight toll, I clattered over, and was soon at the house of the Ger- 
 man. I felt half inclined to push onward over the mountains, so as 
 to make San Paulo before mid-day of the morrow. I however con- 
 cluded to refresh myself and horse, and gave orders for suj^per. 
 The refreshment, so far as sleep was concerned, was a minus quan- 
 tity, and at an early hour I was astride my steed and on my way 
 up the Serra. The road which traverses this range of mountains 
 is probably the finest in Brazil, with the exception of the Imperial 
 highway to Petropolis. When Dr. Kidder visited this portion of 
 the Empire, there existed a very excellent road, made at gi-eat ex- 
 pense; yet, owing to its steepness, it was perfectly impassable for 
 carriages. His description of that route is as follows : — 
 
 "It embraces about four miles of solid pavement and upward of 
 one hundred and eighty angles in its zigzag course. The accom- 
 plishment of this great work of internal improvement was esteemed 
 worthy of commemoration as a distinguished event in the colonial 
 history of Portugal. This appears from a discovery made on my 
 return. Halting on the peak of the Serra, my attention was drawn 
 to four wrought stones, apparently imported. They corresponded 
 in size and form to the mile-stones of the United States, and had 
 fallen prostrate. One lay with its face downward, so embedded in 
 the earth as to be — to me at least — immovable. From the others, 
 having removed with the point of my hammer the moss and rubbish 
 by which the tracery of the letters was obscured, I deciphered aa 
 follows : — 
 
 "MAEIA I.EEGINA, 
 
 NESTE ANNO, 1790. 
 
 OMNIA YINCIT AMOR SYBDITOEYM 
 
 FES SE ESTE CAMIXHO NO FELIS GOYER- 
 
 NO DO ILLo E EXo BERNARDO JOSE DB 
 
 LORENO, GENERAL DESTA 
 
 CAPITANIA. 
 
356 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 " A solid pavement up this mountain-pass was rendered essential 
 from the liability of the road to injury by the continued tread of 
 animals, and also from torrents of water which are frequently pre- 
 cipitated down and across it in heavy rains. Notwithstanding the 
 original excellence of the work, maintained as it had been by 
 frequent repairs, Ave were obliged to encounter some gullies and 
 filides of earth, "svhich would have been thought of fearful magni- 
 tude had they not been rendered insignificant in comparison with 
 the heights above and the deep ravines which ever and anon 
 yawned beneath precipitous embankments. At these points a few 
 false stops of the passing animal would have plunged both him and 
 his rider beyond the hope of rescue. Our ascent Avas rendered 
 more exciting by meeting successive troops of mules. There Avould 
 first be heard the harsh voice of the tropeiros urging along their 
 beasts, and sounding so directly above as to seem issuing from 
 the A'cry clouds: presently the clattering of hoofs aa'OuM be dis- 
 tinguished, and at length Avould be seen the animals, erectis 
 auribus, as thej^ came borne almost irresistibly doAvn by their 
 heaA^y burdens. It was necessary to seek some halting-place 
 while the several divisions of the troop passed by, and soon their 
 resounding tread and the echoing voice of the guides would be 
 lost in the thickets beneath." 
 
 The aboA^e description of the road was strictly true fifteen years 
 ago; but nOAv, by judicious engineering, the grades are not nearly 
 so steep, and at a \'ast expense the Avhole is finely macadamized. 
 Still, the ascent is too precipitous for heaA'ilj-laden carriages. But 
 this will soon be remedied. English engineers are surA^eying a 
 route into the interior Avhich may extend as far as the province 
 of Goj^az ; and it is the fond hope of the Vergueiros that the time 
 is not distant AA'hen the coffee of Campinas, Limeira, and Itii Avill 
 be brought upon wheels to Santos. In the engi-aving the pre- 
 sent comparatively greatly-winding highway is in strong contrast 
 with the almost perpendicular road made by the early Jesuits 
 before the one of which Dr. Kidder speaks. The Jesuits' Eoad 
 is the dark line seeming to divide the conical mountain into 
 equal parts. 
 
 As I pushed up with my sorry-looking steed, the Serra became 
 enveloped in mist, so that I could scarcely see a rod before me; but 
 
"The Heaven of the Moon." 
 
 357 
 
 upon mj return the mountains were not only bathed in glorious 
 sunlight, but the plains beneath and the distant ocean seemed 
 brought near, as by magic. There was a wildness and sublimity 
 in the landscape which I have not seen surpassed in the vicinity of 
 Eio de Janeiro. From the summit of the mountain the dark and 
 rusTired <roro;es were not even clothed with the abundant foliage 
 which is found everywhere else. Streams burst forth from some 
 of the loftiest peaks, and thundered down into the deep i-avines 
 beneath. 
 
 THE BRIDGE AND SERRA 00 CUBITAO. 
 
 The Jesuit Vasconcellos made the ascent of this Serra two hun- 
 dred years ago, and his description of the scenerj' is sketched witn 
 a masterly hand; but his estimate of the altitude was cei-tadnly 
 extraordinary : — 
 
 "The greater part of the way yo\i have not to travel, but to get 
 ou with hands and feet, and by the roots of trees; and this among 
 such crags and precipices, that I confess my flesh trembled when 1 
 looked down. The depth of the valleys is tremendous, and the> 
 niiraber of mountains, one above another, seems to leave no hope 
 of reaching the end. When you fancy you are at the summit of 
 one, you find yourself at the bottom of another of no less magni- 
 tude. True it is, that the labor of ascent is recompensed from time 
 
858 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 to time; for when I seated myself upon one of these rocks, and 
 cast my eyes below, it seemed as though I was looking down from 
 the heaven of the moon, and that the whole globe of earth lay 
 beneath my feet. A sight of rare beauty for the diversity of 
 prospect, of sea and land, plains, forests, and mountain-tracks, all 
 various, and beyond measure delightful. This ascent, broken with 
 shelves of level, continues till you reach the plains of Piratininga, 
 in the second region of the air, where it is so thin that it seems as 
 if those who newl}^ arrive could never bi'eathe their fill." 
 
 Dr. Kidder thus criticizes Vasconccllos : — 
 
 "The last sentence is as erroneous as the preceding are graphic 
 and beautiful. I should not, however, deem it necessary to correct 
 the statement, had not Southey, upon its authority, represented 
 this ascent to continue eight leagues to the very site of S. Paulo, 
 which is upon the plains of Piratininga. The truth is, that from 
 the summit of the Serra, before stated to be three thousand feet 
 above the sea, the distance to S. Paulo is about thirty miles, over a 
 country diversified with undulations, of which the prevailing 
 declination, as shown by the course of streams, is inland. Never- 
 theless, so slight is the variation from a general level, that the 
 highest point within the city of S. Paulo is estimated to be pre- 
 cisely the same altitude with the summit mentioned. What incon- 
 venience would be experienced from rarefaction of the atmosphere 
 at such an elevation may be easily determined." 
 
 It however appears to me that the estimated altitude of the 
 Serra, made by the good frade Vasconccllos, was a just one accord- 
 ing to his standard; for, even considering that he did not have the 
 asthma, to go up a steep mountain, ("the heaven of the moon" 
 in elevation,) not by travelling, "but to get on with hands and 
 feet, and by the roots of trees, and this among such crags and 
 precipices," was assuredly sutficicnt to make one pant and feel 
 as if ho were "in the second region of the air" and "could never 
 breathe his fill." I once encountered a tall, lank Californian on 
 the Isthmus of Panama. It was at the end of a hot and sultry 
 day : the pedestrian gold-digger had set his face toward the Pa- 
 cific, while I was seeking the port of Aspinwall. I accosted him, 
 and inquired the distance to Obispo, (at that time the terminus of 
 the Panama Eailway.) "Stranger," said he, "they call it five 
 
 \ 
 
Mules and Muleteers. 359 
 
 miles; but I can assure you that it is ahout Jive hundred, for I never 
 have been so tired in all my life." He estimated distance as Frado 
 Vasconeellos estimated the altitude of the Serra de Cubatao. 
 
 Having once attained the summit of the mountain, I galloped 
 over the upland plains, feeling more uneomfoi'table from the cold 
 than ever before in Brazil. At ten o'clock I reached the hotel of 
 M. Lefevre, a Frenchman from Eoussillon, at whose well-provided 
 table my chilliness was soon removed. 
 
 The plains between this and San Paulo, w^here there was no cul- 
 tivation, were dotted by termite-ant-hills of such a size and form 
 as to remind one of the pictures of a Hottentot village. In some 
 places the industrious little creatures had literally ploughed up 
 the ground for many yards around. The earth composing the 
 outer shell of these insect-habitations becomes so indurated by 
 the action of the sun that they retain their original erect position 
 and oval form for scores of j^ears. 
 
 The country over which 1 passed, save that the earth has a 
 marked ferruginous appearance, resembles what are called the 
 "oak-openings" of the western parts of the United States. In 
 the vicinity of the village of San Bernardo there are considerable 
 plantations of coffee and Chinese tea 
 
 I was constantly meeting with troops of mules laden with coffee, 
 on their way to Santos, or passing others returning from the sea- 
 board to the interior. It may be here remarked, that ordinary 
 transportation to and from the coast is accomplished with no incon- 
 siderable regularity and system, notwithstanding the manner. 
 Many planters keep a sufficient number of beasts to convey their 
 entire produce to market; others do not, but depend more or less 
 upon professional carriers. Among these, each troop is under 
 charge of a conductor, who superintends its movements and 
 transacts its business. They generally load down with sugar and 
 other agricultural products, conveying, in return, salt, flour, and 
 every variety of imported merchandise. I was informed that two 
 hundred thousand mules annually arrived with their burdens at 
 Santos. A gentleman who had for many years employed these con- 
 ductors in th , transmission of goods stated that he had seldom or 
 never known uu article fail to reach its destination. 
 
 The Paulista tropeiros, as a class, differ very much from the 
 
360 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Mineiros and conductors that visit Eio de Janeiro. They have a 
 certain wildness in their look, which, mingled with intelligence 
 and sometimes benignity, gives to their countenance altogether a 
 peculiar expression. They universally wear a large pointed knife, 
 twisted into their girdle behind. This faca de ponta is perhaps 
 more essential to them than the knife of the sailor is to him. It 
 serves to cut wood, to mend harnesses, to kill and dress an animal, 
 to carve food, and, in case of necessity, to defend or to assault. 
 Its blade has a curve peculiar to itself, and, in order to be approved, 
 must have a temper that will enable it to be struck through a thick 
 piece of cojDper without bending or breaking. This, being a favorite 
 companion, is often mounted with a silver handle, and sometimes 
 encased in a silver sheath, although it is generally worn naked. 
 Many foreigners (among them Englishmen) have purchased these 
 knives to take home as curiosities, not knowing that they were 
 manufactured in Great Britain or in the northeastern part of 
 France. Lady Emeline StiBwart Wortley, in her interesting gossip- 
 ing letters from the New World, states that she procured in Peru, 
 as a great curiosity, a poncho of the country, so that she might 
 show to her friends in England the peculiar costume and the manu- 
 factures of the people who are descended from Castilian adven- 
 turers and the subjects of Atahualpa. Before leaving South 
 America, some kind friend engaged in commerce, not wishing Lady 
 Emeline to be duped, broke her pleasant delusion by infoi*ming her 
 that the poncho in question was from the looms of Scotland. It 
 might also be mentioned that many of the beautiful water-vases 
 seen by foreigners at Rio de Janeiro are manufactured at the pot- 
 teries in Staffordshire, and are sent'out in large quantities to South 
 America. The mysteries of the sujjply of distant countries with 
 the productions considered as peculiar to those lands would form 
 a curious book, far more interesting than the "blue-books" of Old 
 England, or the annual "Commerce and Navigation" issued from 
 the United States financial department.* 
 
 * Paper manufactured in New England bears the stamp " Bath Post" and " Paris." 
 Large establishments near New York import labels and wrapping-paper from France, 
 to put in and around hats which go over the Union as made on the banks of the 
 Seine. Staflfordshire not only makes water-vases supposed in South America to 
 
Entrance to San Paulo. 361 
 
 B.efore the sun had set, I saw in the distance the city of San 
 Paulo. Its elevated position on a small table-land that springs up 
 from the plain, and its many towers and steeples and old conventual 
 buildings, give it an appearance far more imposing than a town of 
 greater population. Before ascending the hill, I passed the pavi- 
 lion erected on the margin of the Ypiranga to commemorate the 
 declaration of Brazilian independence which was emphatically 
 made by Dom Pedro I. when (September 7, 1S22) in this place he 
 exclaimed " Independencia ou Morte!" Such a spot should be hal- 
 lowed in the thought of every Brazilian, as well as memorable 
 throughout the world; and it is therefore not much to the credit 
 of Brazil or to the province of San Paulo, fertile in patriots, that a 
 more fitting monument, of "enduring brass or marble," has not 
 hitherto been erected commemorative of an event of such vast 
 national interest. 
 
 Eventide was setting in as I splashed through the Tiete, the first 
 of the La Platan affluents that I had crossed; and I soon ascended 
 to the city. When I entered the first street, I felt more convinced 
 than ever that I was south of the tropic of Capricorn; for, though 
 verdure unchanging can be seen everywhere, yet in the nights of 
 June (which answers to December in the northern hemisphere) 
 there is experienced a chilliness which renders overcoats comfort- 
 able. Mine had been left behind by accident, and not only my 
 feelings told me of its absence, but, beholding several law-students 
 well cloaked, I was forcibly reminded of my carelessness and my 
 consequent suffering. I fell into conversation with the young 
 "limbs of the law," and found them exceedingly affable and com- 
 municative, as they kindly guided me to the hotel of Senhor C. 
 Observing a large convent near at hand, I remarked that a new 
 country like Brazil had little need of a body of monks and friars. 
 I was somewhat surprised at the earnest and ready reply of one, 
 who, apparently uttering the sentiments of the party, said, "No, 
 Senhor, we need none of them: they are a lazy set; and we 
 approve of what the King of Sardinia has recently done in regard 
 
 have been manufactured on the spot, but drives a good trade with statues of the 
 Virgin, supposed to be the production of Italy and France, where they adorn so 
 many houses of the peasantry. 
 
362 Brazil atsid the Brazilians. 
 
 to convents." Brazil has few monks in her splendid conventual 
 buildings, and those few, with the exception of the Italian Capu- 
 chins, are indolent, luxurious, and licentious. The many edifices 
 already secularized are used for state arsenals, provincial palaces, 
 libraries, hospitals, &c. 
 
 I could not but contrast my introduction to S. Paulo with the 
 entrance of Mr. 3Iawe, who nearly half a century ago made the 
 acquaintance of the same city. In mj case I rode into town and 
 went to the hotel in the same manner as I would have done in 
 Boston, Liverpool, or Geneva. But Mr. Mawe's experience with 
 Brazil was immediately succeeding the opening of the country by 
 royal decree in 1808. In his very readable "Travels" he says, 
 "Our appearance at S.Paulo excited considerable curiosity among 
 all descriptions of people, who seemed by their manner never to 
 have seen an Englishman before. The very children testified their 
 astonishment, — some by running away, others by counting our fin- 
 gei'S and exclaiming that we had the same number as they. Many 
 of the good citizens invited us to their houses, and sent for their 
 friends to come and look on us. As the dwelling we occujDied w^as 
 very large, Ave were frequently entertained by crowds of young 
 persons of both sexes who came to see us eat and drink. It was 
 gratifying to us to perceive that this general wonder subsided into 
 a more social feeling: we met with civil treatment everywhere, and 
 found great pleasure in a more refined and polished company than 
 we had seen in the Spanish settlements." 
 
 Though San Paulo is still distinguished for its " refined and 
 polished" society, it is hard at this day to conceive of the curiosity 
 at seeing strangers which must have been one of the direct con- 
 Bequences of Portugal's Japanese policy toward the colony of Brazil. 
 
 S. Paulo is situated between two small streams upon an elevation 
 of ground, the surface of wdiich is very uneven. Its streets are 
 narrow, and not laid out with regard to system or general regu- 
 larity. They have narrow side-walks, and are paved with a ferru- 
 ginous conglomerate closely resembling old red sandstone, but dif- 
 fering from that formation by containing larger fragments of 
 quartz, — thus approaching bi'eccia. 
 
 Some of the buildings are constructed of this stone; but the 
 material more generally used in the construction of houses is the 
 
Taipa Houses. 363 
 
 common soil, which, being slightly moistened, can be laid up into 
 a solid wall. The method is to dig down several feet, as would b*^ 
 done for the foundation of a stone house, then to commence filling 
 in with the moistened earth, which is beaten as hard as possible. 
 As the wall rises above ground, a frame of boards or planks is made 
 to keep it in the proper dimensions, which curbing is moved up- 
 ward as fast as may be necessaiy, until the whole is completed. 
 These walls are generall}' very thick, especially in large buildings. 
 They are capable of receiving a handsome tinish within and with- 
 out, and are usually covered by projecting roofs, which preserve 
 them from the eflect of rains. Although this is a reasonable pre- 
 caution, yet such walls have been known to stand more than a 
 hundred years without the least protection. Under the influence 
 of the sun they become indurated, and are like ono massive brick, 
 impci'vious to water, while the absence of frost promotes their 
 stability. 
 
 From San Paulo I wrote to one of my friends at Eio a letter, 
 from which I take the following extracts: — 
 
 " June 2G, 1855. 
 
 "1 am in a cold room, — such cold as 1 have not before ex- 
 perienced in Brazil. The moon is shining coldly; men creep 
 about in cloaks, (I wish I had one,) and the only thing that 
 possesses caloric is the candle which throws its dim light upon this 
 paper. I ought, however, to except the stirring strain of a distant 
 bugle, that really fills the night-air with a warming melody. 
 
 " Here I am stopped, because people do nothing d'appressado 
 (in a hurry) in Brazil. I put my two boxes ashore at Santos on 
 the 14th, and they were not sent forward until the 23d; and 
 to-day I passed the rancho where the troop encamped last night. 
 This evening they have reached a point two miles beyond San 
 Paulo, — at which rate thej' will attain their destination — Limeira 
 — about the 14th of July, the da}^ on which I hope to sail from 
 Eio for the northern provinces. But if possible I shall hire extra 
 mules, overtake my boxes, transfer them to my animals, and push 
 on so as to reach the colony of Vergueiro (more than one hundred 
 miles from here) by Saturday night. 
 
 "Tell Scnhor Fei-nando Eocha that his friend, Senhor Seraphim, 
 has been most useful and kind to me, running over the whole town 
 
364 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 to procure for me the requisite animals. Do you think that an 
 American or an Enslish merchant would have done as much, late 
 at night, for a stranger three hours after his arrival ? 
 
 "1 fcAr you will find me quite complaining, and place me in the 
 category of those travellers who, like Smollett, were always scold- 
 ing and grumbling about the inconveniences of the country in 
 which they were 'voyaging.' I assure you that I take things as 
 nmch like a philosopher as possible, — eating all kinds of food in 
 all sorts of places, and sleeping where I would have scruples about 
 making a daylight examination. Fancy, I slept, or at least at- 
 tempted it, last night in a dirty German hospedaria, with a wild 
 parrot overhead and my Calmuck horse haltered just the other side 
 of a thin partition: so, between the music of one biting his chain, 
 and the other crunching his milho, (Indian corn,) I got a very small 
 share of 'nature's sweet restorer.' 
 
 "Yesterday 1 left Santos, although I was informed that it was 
 impossible to start for the interior the same da}'- that I arrived j 
 yet my kind friends, the Vergueiros, enabled me to keep my word 
 which I gave on board the steamer, to the effect that night should 
 see me on my way. To-day I rode thirty-two miles, which you 
 know, as Paulistas travel, is a good day's journey. As I drew near 
 to San Paulo and gazed upon the green prairies dotted by hei*ds, 
 the white houses surrounded by trees, and in the background the 
 distant mountains, I seemed to behold, as in j'ears gone by, the 
 like scenes of Burgundj", Piedmont, and Northumberland. 
 
 "I felt a more profound respect for San Paulo than for any South 
 American city that I have yet visited. It was larger than I anti- 
 cipated, and its houses, with their overhanging eaves, give it an 
 appearance not unlike that of Vevay, on the Lake of Geneva. 
 These eaves, I should say, extend over the streets five or six feet, 
 protecting the passers-by from the rain and sun, and giving a Swiss 
 picturesqueness to the whole. 
 
 "My feelings of respect, however, arose not from the size of the 
 cit}', nor from its picturesqueness, but because there is a more in- 
 tellectual and a less commercial air about the people than you see 
 elsewhere in Brazil. You do not hear the word dinheiro constantly 
 ringing in your ear, as at Bio de Janeiro. There are no less than 
 five hundred law-students in the legal colleg-e here established, and 
 
The Law-Students. 365 
 
 their appearance really recalls the Dane law-school of Hai-vard 
 University and the students of Heidelberg. The genus student is 
 the same the world over, — full of pranks, fun, and mischief. The 
 week of my arrival, several scores of these fellows had * kicked up 
 a row' (as one of them elegantly expressed it) at the theatre, so 
 that the President of the province ordered a strong police-force to 
 be present at the next representation, and it was not without dif- 
 ficulty that order was preserved. 
 
 "In entering the city, I fell in with a number of these young 
 legalists, who conducted me to the hotel where many of their 
 classmates were whiling away their time at billiards; and, judging 
 from the sound of rolling balls and -lucky hits' at this late hour, 
 one would suppose they will have little opportunity for preparing 
 their morning lesson. The hotel-keeper is a young Brazilian, 
 
 educated at 's, in Nova Fribourgo, and speaks very good English. 
 
 He has too many projects, however, to succeed. His last plan is 
 to establish a sort of Surrey Zoological Gardens, for concerts, exhi- 
 bitions, and recreation generally, at Rio de Janeiro. His chosen 
 spot for this purpose is on the Praia Vermelha, not far from the 
 Sugar-Loaf Speaking of gardens, I am reminded of plantations, 
 and will only sa}" that to-day I saw immense plantations of what I 
 had first supposed to be coffee, but which proved to be genuine 
 Chinese 'green tea.' 
 
 "But now to bed: if rolling billiard-balls will let me sleep, I will 
 be refreshed for the journey of to-morrow. 
 
 "P.S. AVednesday morning. — I have a hoi-se, a conductor, and 
 two mules, and shall be off in a few moments. You will next hear 
 from me at Limcira." 
 
 Note for 1866. — The Sao Paulo and Jundiahy Railway is now nearly completed 
 from Santos to Jundiahy (mentioned on page 899). The effect of these various 
 railways is becoming apparent, and though some of them in the Empire are not 
 very paying stock, there must be in the end a great gain to the country. The 
 Sixo Paulo road is rightly located ; for it penetrates the interior of one of the most 
 fertile of the Southern provinces. 
 
CHAPTEE XX. 
 
 HISTORY OF SAN PAULO — TERRESTRIAL PARADISE REVERSES OF THE JESUITS 
 
 ENSLAVEMENT OF THE INDIANS — HISTORICAL DATA THE ACADEMY OF LAWS 
 
 COURSE OF STUDY DISTINGUISHED MEN THE ANDRADAS JOs£ BONIFACIO 
 
 ANTONIO CARLOS ALVARES MACHADO VERGUEIRO BISHOP MOURA A VISIT 
 
 TO FEIJO — PROPOSITION TO ABOLISH CELIBACY AN INTERESTING BOOK THE 
 
 DEATH OF ANTONIO CARLOS DE ANDRADA HIGH EULOGIUM MISSIONARY 
 
 EFFORTS IN SAN PAULO EARLY AND PRESENT CONDITION OF THE PROVINCE — ■ 
 
 HOSPITALITIES OP A PADRE ENCOURAGEMENTS THE PEOPLE PROPOSITION TO 
 
 THE PROVINCIAL ASSEMBLY RESPONSE RESULT ADDENDA PRESENT ENCOU- 
 RAGEMENTS. 
 
 The history of San Paulo takes us back to an early period in the 
 settlement of the New World by Europeans. It has already been 
 remarked that, in 1531, Martin Affonso de Souza founded S.Vicente, 
 the first town in the captaincy, which for a long time bore the 
 same appellation. There had previously been shipwrecked on the 
 coast an individual by the name of Joiio Earaalho, who had ac- 
 quired the language of the native tribes and secured influence 
 among them by marrying a daughter of one of their principal 
 caciques. Through his interposition, peace was secured with the 
 savages and the interests of the colony were fostered. Ey degrees 
 the settlement extended itself inland, and' in 1553 some of the 
 Jes^iits who accompanied Thome de Souza, the first captain-general, 
 found their way to the region styled the plains of Piratininga, and 
 selected the elevated locality on which the city now stands, as the 
 site of a village, in which they commenced to gather together and 
 instruct the Indians. 
 
 Having erected a small mud cottage on the spot Avhere their 
 
 college was subsequently built, they 2:)rocceded to consecrate it by 
 
 a mass, recited on the 25th of January, 1554. That, being the day 
 
 on which the conversion of St. Paul is celebrated by the Eoman 
 
 Church, gave the name of the apostle to the town, and subsequently 
 306 
 
A Terrestrial Paradise. 367 
 
 to the province. St. Paul is still considered the patron saint of 
 both. A confidential letter, wi-itten by one of these Jesuits to his 
 brethren in Portugal, in addition to many interesting particulars 
 on other subjects, contains the following passage, which may serve 
 to show how the country appeai-ed to those who saw it nearly three 
 hundred years ago. This letter exists in a manuscript book taken 
 from the Jesuits at the time of their expulsion from Brazil, and 
 still preserved in the National Library at Eio de Janeiro. Its date 
 is 1560. No part of it is known to have been hitherto rendered 
 into English previous to the translation made by Eev, Dr. Kidder. 
 
 '* For Christ's sake, dearest brethren, I beseech you to get rid of 
 the bad idea you have hitherto entertained of Brazil: to speak the 
 truth, if there were a paradise on earth, I would say it now existed 
 here. And if I think so, I am unable to conceive who will not. 
 Respecting spiritual matters and the service of God, they are 
 prospering, as I have before told you; and as to temporal affairs, 
 there is nothing to be desired. Melancholy cannot fee found here, 
 unless you dig deeper for it than were the foundations of the palace 
 of S. Eoque. There is not a more healthy place in the world, nor 
 a more pleasant country, abounding as it does in all kinds of fruit 
 and food, so as to leave me no desire for those of Europe. If in 
 Portugal you have fowls, so do we in abundance, and very cheap; 
 if you have mutton, we here have wild animals, whose flesh is 
 decidedly superior; if you have wine there, I aver that I find my- 
 self better off with such water as we have here than with the 
 wines of Portugal. Do you have bread, so do I sometimes, and 
 always what is better, since there is no doubt but that the flour of 
 this country (mandioca) is more healthy than your bread. As to 
 fruits, we have a great variety; and, having these, I say let any 
 one eat those of the old country who likes them. What is more, 
 in addition to yielding all the year, vegetable productions are so 
 easily cultivated (it being hardly necessary to plant them) that 
 nobody can be so poor as to be in want. As to recreations, yours 
 are in no way to be compared with what we have here. 
 
 "Now, I am desirous that some of you should come out and put 
 these matters to the test; since I do not hesitate to give my opinion, 
 that, if any one wishes to live in a terrestrial paradise, he should 
 not stop short of Brazil. Let him that doubts my Avord come and 
 
368 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 see. Some will say, What sort of a life can that man lead who 
 sleeps in a hammock swung up in the air? Let me tell them, they 
 have no idea what a fine arrangement this is. I had a bed with 
 mattresses, but, my physician advising me to sleep in a hammock, I 
 found the latter so much preferable, that I never have been able to 
 take the least satisfaction, or rest a single night, upon a bed since. 
 Others may have their opinions, but these are mine, founded upon 
 experience." 
 
 The Jesuits, unhappily, did not find this paradise to be perennial. 
 Their benevolence, and their philanthropic devotedness to the In- 
 dians, brought down upon them the hatred of their countrymen, 
 the Portuguese, and of the Mamalucos, as the half-breeds were 
 denominated. These two classes commenced at an early day the 
 enslavement of the aboriginals, and they continued it through suc- 
 cessive generations, Avith a ferocious and bloodthirsty perseverance 
 that has seldom found parallel. As the Jesuits stoadfastl}^ opposed 
 their cruelties, the Portuguese resorted to every means of annoy- 
 ance against them. They ridiculed the savages for any compliance 
 with the religious formalities in which they were so diligently in- 
 structed, — encouraging them to continue in their heathen vices, and 
 even in the abominations of cannibalism. Nevertheless, these mis- 
 sionaries did not labor without considerable success. The Govern- 
 ment was on their side, but was unable to protect them from the 
 persecutions of their brethren, who, although calling themselves 
 Christians, were as insensible to the fear of God as they were 
 regardless of the rights of men. From the pursuit of their ima- 
 gined interest, nothing could deter them but positive force. As the 
 Indians were driven, back into the wilds of the interior, through 
 fear of the slave-hunters, the Jesuits sought them out, and carried 
 to them the opportunities of Christian worsliip and instruction. It 
 was thus that a commencement was made to the celebrated Reduc- 
 tions of Paraguay, which occupy so wide a sj)ace in the early 
 history of South America. Sometimes the Paulistas would dis- 
 guise themselves in the garb of the Jesuits, in order to decoy the 
 natives whom they wished to capture. At other times they as- 
 saulted the Eeductions, or villages of neophytes, boasting that the 
 priests were very serviceable in thus gathering together their 
 prey. 
 
Historical Data. 869 
 
 Voluntary expeditions of these slave-hunters, styled bandciras, 
 spent months, and sometimes years, in the most cruel and deso- 
 lating wars against the native tribes. Instigated by the lust of 
 human plunder, some penetrated into what is now the interior of 
 Bolivia on the west ; while others reached the very Amazon on the 
 north. As the Indians became thinned off by these remorseless 
 aggressions, another enterprise presented itself as a stimulant to 
 their avarice. It was that of hunting for gold. Success in the 
 latter enterjDrise created new motives for the prosecution of the 
 former. Slaves must be bad to work the mines. Thus, the exter- 
 mination of the native tribes of Brazil progressed, for scores of 
 years, with fearful rapidity. One result of these expeditions was 
 an enlargement of the territories of Portugal and an extension 
 of settlements. By the growth of these settlements four large 
 provinces were populated. They have since been set off from that 
 of S. Paulo, in the following order : — Minas-Geraes, in 1720 ; Eio 
 Grande do Sul, in 1738; Goyaz and Matto Grosso, in 1748. 
 
 During the period when Portugal and her colonies were under 
 the dominion of Spain, a considerable number of Spanish families 
 became inhabitants of the captaincy of S. Paulo; and when, in 
 1640, that dominion came to an end, a numerous party disposed 
 itself to resist the Government of Portugal. They proceeded to 
 proclaim one Amador Bueno, king; but this individual had the 
 sagacity and patriotism peremptorily to decline the dignity his 
 friends were anxious to confer upon him. The Paulistas have 
 been subsequentlj' second to none in their loyalty to the legitimate 
 Government of the country; unless, indeed, the unhapp}'- disturb- 
 ances that occurred among them in the years 1841-42 be con- 
 sidered as forming an exception to this remark. It is now one 
 of the most prosperous provinces of the Empire. 
 
 My colleague remained many days in the provincial capital, and 
 gives the following account of its institutions and great men : — 
 
 '<The Academy of Laws, or, as it is frequently denominated, the 
 University of S. Paulo, ranks first among all the literary institu- 
 tions of the Empire. I enjoyed an excellent opportunity for visit- 
 ing it, being introduced by the secretary and acting president, Dr. 
 Brotero. This gentleman — whose lady is a native of the United 
 
 States — desei'ves honorable mention, not only for the zeal and 
 
 24 
 
370 . Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ability Avith which he administers the affairs of tho institution 
 of which he has since become the president, but also as an author. 
 He has published a standard work on the Principles of Natural 
 Law, and a treatise upon Maritime Prizes. 
 
 "The edifice of the Curso Juridico was originally constructed as 
 a convent by the Franciscan monks, whom the Government com- 
 pelled to abandon it for its present more profitable use. Being 
 larger and well built, a few alterations rendered it quite suitable 
 to the purposes for which it was required. The lecture and recita- 
 tion ro'oms are on the first floor, the professors' rooms and library 
 on the second; these, together with an ample court-j^ard, compose 
 the whole establishment, save two immense chapels still devoted 
 to their original design. In one of these I found several very 
 decent paintings, and also an immense staging, upon which work- 
 men were engaged finishing the stucco-work upon the principal 
 arch of the vaulted roof Both chapels abounded with mytho- 
 logical representations of the patron saint, both in images and 
 colors. The library of the institution, containing seven thousand 
 volumes, is composed of the collection formerly belonging to the 
 Franciscans, a pai't of which was bequeathed to the convent by the 
 Bishop of Madeira; the library of a deceased bishop of S. Paulo; 
 a donation of seven hundred volumes from the first dii'ector ; and 
 some additions ordered by the Government. It was not over- 
 stocked with books upon law or belles-lettres, and was quite defi- 
 cient in the department of science. The only compensation for 
 such deficiencies was a superabundance of unread and unreadable 
 tomes on theology. Among all these, however, there was not to 
 be found a single copy of the Bible — the fountain of all correct 
 theology — in the vernacular language of the country; a rarer 
 volume than which, at least in former years, could scarcely have 
 been mentioned at S. Paulo. This particular deficiency I had the 
 happiness of supplying by the donation of Pereira's Portuguese 
 translation, bearing this inscription : — 
 
 "AG BIBLIOTHECA DA ACADEMIA JURIDICA DE S. PAULO 
 
 DA SOCIEDADE BIBLICA AMERICANA 
 
 PELO SEU CORRESPONDENTE 
 
 „ „ „ D. P. Kidder. 
 
 CiDADE DE S. PaTJLO, "l 
 
 16 de Fev'o de 1839. j 
 
The Academy of Laws. 371 
 
 ''The history and statistics of the institution were kindly com- 
 nmnicated to me by the secretary-, in a paper, from which the 
 following abstract is translated : — 
 
 "The Academy of the Legal and Social Sciences of the city of 
 S. Paulo was created by a law dated August 11, 1827. It was for- 
 mally opened, by the first professor, Dr. Jose Maria de Avellar 
 Brotero, on the 1st da}^ of March, 1828, — Lieutenant-General Jose 
 Arouche de Toledo Eendon being first director. 
 
 "The statutes by which it is governed were approved by law, 
 November 7, 1831. 
 
 "The studies of the preparatory course are — Latin, French, 
 English, Ehetoric, Eational and Moral Philosophy, Geometry, His- 
 tory, and Geography. 
 
 "The regular course extends through five years. The several 
 professorships are thus designated : — 
 
 "First Year. — 1st professorship, Philosophy of Law, Public Law, 
 Analysis of the Constitution of the Empire, and Eoman Law. 
 
 "Second Year. — 1st professorship, Continuation of the above sub- 
 jects, International Law, and Diplomacy; 2d professorship. Public 
 Ecclesiastical Law. 
 
 "Third Year. — 1st professorship, Civil Laws of the Empire; 
 2d j)rofessorship, Criminal Laws, Theory of the Criminal Process. 
 
 "Fourth Year. — 1st professorship, Continuation of Civil Law ; 
 2d professorship, Mei^cantile and Maritime Law. 
 
 "Fifth Year. — 1st professorship. Political Economy; 2d professor- 
 ship. Theory and Practice of General Law, adapted to the Code of 
 the Empire. 
 
 "The age of sixteen years and an acquaintance with all the pre- 
 paratory studies are requisite in order to enter the regular course. 
 No student can advance without having passed a satisfactoiy 
 examination on the studies of the pi-eceding year. "When the 
 examinations of the fifth year are passed acceptably, the Academy 
 confers the degree of Bachelor of Arts; and every Bachelor is 
 entitled to present theses on which to be examined as a candidate 
 for the degree of Bachelor of Laws. 
 
 "In examinations on the course, students are interrogated by 
 three pi'ofessors for the space of twenty minutes each. Coni- 
 petitors for the Doctorate are required to argue upon their 
 
372 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 theses with nine professors successively, each discussion lasting 
 half an hour. At the end of each examination, the professors, 
 by secret ballot, determine the approval or rejection of the 
 candidate. 
 
 "In order to explain the peculiarities of the above course of 
 study, it should be remarked that, in its arrangement, the Uni- 
 versity of Coimbra was followed as a model. The education im- 
 parted by it may be formal and exact in its way, but can never bo 
 popular. The Brazilian people look more to utility than to the 
 antiquated forms of a Portuguese university; and I apprehend it 
 will be found necessary, ere long, in order to secure students at 
 the University of S. Paulo, to condense and modernize the course 
 of instruction." 
 
 In 1855, the prosperity of the Law-Academy was no longer a 
 matter of doubt, as at that time there were two hundred and 
 ninety-six students in the five classes, and three hundred moi-e in 
 the preparatory course, which, by recurring to their list of studies, 
 I find (^miniis the Greek language) to be very similar to the studies 
 in most colleges in the United States. Under Senhor Brotero, the 
 institution at San Paulo has become exceedingly popular, and, 
 doubtless, is far more practical than in the first years of its exist- 
 ence. It is here and at the Pernambuco Law-School (which con- 
 tains three hundred and twenty students in the regular course) 
 that the statesmen of Brazil receive that education which so much 
 better fits them for the Imperial Parliament and the various legis- 
 lative assemblies of their land than any preparatives that exist in 
 the Spanish-American countries. 
 
 "My sojourn at S. Paulo," continues Dr. Kidder, "was rendered 
 inereasingl}' intei'csting by repeated interviews with several distin- 
 guished citizens of the province. One evening, while walking in 
 eompan}^ with several gentlemen in the extensive gardens of Senhor 
 Eaphael Tobias d'Aguiar, a popular ex-president of the province 
 and one of its largest land-proprietors, the conversation turned 
 upon the different foreign travellers in Brazil. Mawe was recol- 
 lected by some; but St. Hilaire, the French botanist, enjoyed the 
 highest consideration of all, as having accomplished his task in the 
 most thorough manner. 
 
 "Senhor Eaphael related a very interesting anecdote, ^communi- 
 
Distinguished Men. 373 
 
 cated to liim by St. Hilaire. A poor man in England, in reading 
 the work of Mr. Mawe, had become so enthusiastic with the idea 
 of the vegetable and mineral riches of Brazil, that, in order to get 
 to the country, he actuall}' came out in the capacity of a servant. 
 After reaching Eio de Janeiro, he had by some means found his 
 wa}^ up the Serras into the interior, where his industrious exer- 
 tions had been rewarded with success, and whei'e the botanist 
 found him actually possessed of a fortune. 
 
 "Among the distinguished men of S.Paulo, I will first mention 
 the Andradas, — three brothers, whose family residence is Santos. 
 These brothers were all educated at the University of Coimbra, in 
 Portugal, and received the degrees of Doctors in Jurisprudence and 
 Philosophj^, and the 3'ounger that of Mathematics. 
 
 "Jose Bonifacio, the eldest, after his gi-aduation, travelled several 
 years in the northern countries of Europe, — devoting himself mean- 
 while to scientific researches, the results of which it was his inten- 
 tion to publish in Brazil. On his return to Portugal he was created 
 Professor of Metallurgy in Coimbra, and of Medicine in Lisbon. 
 While engaged in these professorships, he published several trea- 
 tises of much merit, among which was a dissertation on 'The 
 Necessity of Planting New Forests in Portugal, and particularly 
 of Fir-Trees along the Sandy Coasts of the Sea-Shore.' His valor 
 was called out by the invasion of Portugal, when he organized and 
 headed a body of students who determined to do what they could 
 toward repelling the army of Napoleon. In 1819 he returned to 
 Brazil in time to take a leading part in the revolution of inde- 
 pendence. (He died at Praia Grande in 1838.) 
 
 "Antonio Carlos returned to Brazil soon after having completed 
 his education. In the year 1817, while executing the office of 
 Ouvidor in Pernambuco, he was arrested as an accomplice of the 
 conspirators in a revolt which broke out at that time. He was 
 sent to Bahia and thrown into prison, where he remained four 
 years. As a pi'oof of his philanthropy as well as of his indomitable 
 energy of mind, it must be mentioned that he spent this long 
 period almost exclusively in instructing a number of his fellow- 
 prisoners in rhetoric, foreign languages, and the elements of 
 science. Being at length liberated, he returned to San Paulo, 
 where ho was shortly afterward elected deputy for that province 
 
374 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 in the Cortes of Lisbon. He assumed liis duties in that body, and 
 remained in it until the increasing insults and aggravations which 
 were heaped upon the Brazilians, without the hoj)e of redress, 
 forced him and several of his colleagues, among whom was Feijo, 
 to withdraw and embark secretly for England. Having arrived at 
 Falmouth, they published a solemn declaration of the motives 
 which induced them to desert the Cortes and to quit Lisbon, 
 Thence the}' returned to their native country. 
 
 "Martin Francisco, the younger brother, had won high dis- 
 tinctions as a scholar, and, from early life, was the frequent 
 subject of political honor. At the first organization of the 
 Imperial Government he was created Minister of Finance, and 
 in this capacity did the country important service, — his elder 
 brother being at the same time Minister of State and of Foreign 
 Affairs. At this period the three brothers were all elected mem- 
 bers of the Assembly which convened to prepare a Constitution 
 for the Empire. 
 
 "Before the discussions of that body were brought to a close, the 
 Emperor was induced, by the coalition of two minor parties, to 
 dismiss the Andrada Ministry and to apjDoint Royalists as their 
 successors. The jDOwerful opposition which the brothers imme- 
 diately arrayed against those by whom they had been supplanted 
 made the position of the new Ministry and that of the Emperor 
 also extremely embarrassing. Attacks produced recrimination, 
 until the Emperor at length resolved upon the i-ash and desperate 
 expedient of dissolving the Assembly by force, which he succeeded 
 in accomplishing, and then apprehended the three brothers Andrada 
 and a few others who were leaders of the opjjosition. They were 
 all, without the least examination or trial, conveyed on board a 
 vessel nearly ready for sea, and transported to France. 
 
 "Their time in Europe was not idly spent. Already acquainted 
 with all the more imjjortant modern languages, they devoted them- 
 selves to literarj' pursuits and the society of the learned with all 
 the enthusiasm of students. 
 
 "In the year 1828, the two younger brothers returned to Rio, 
 and, after a short detention in the prison of the Ilha das Cobras, 
 received a full pardon from the Emperor. Jose Bonifacio came out 
 in 1829 from France. 
 
Jose Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos de Andrada. 875 
 
 ''The French admiral, who had known him in Europe, sent im- 
 mediately to offer him every attention; but Andrada requested 
 iiim to make no demonstration, as he was very uncertain how he 
 might be received. But as soon as the arrival of the ship was 
 known, Calmon, the Minister of Finance, went immediately on 
 board to offer his congratulations and ever}' kind civility. On 
 Andrada's interview with the Emperor, it is said th it the latter 
 proposed an embrace, and that all the past should be forgotten. 
 Andrada replied, with Roman firmness, that the embrace he would 
 most cheerfully give, but to forget the jDast was impossible. 
 
 "The Emperor then proposed to him to enter into the Ministry, 
 but he declined, assuring His Majesty that he only returned to 
 Brazil to live in retirement. Nevertheless, Jose Bonifacio, in his 
 old age, was the individual to whom the Emperor, on his abdica- 
 tion, confided the guardianship of his children. He had then 
 proved the faithlessness of many of those officious partisans who 
 had urged him forward in his attempted overthrow of the men 
 who were his earliest and most devoted friends. The Emperor 
 had learned, by painful experience, how to appreciate real 
 patriotism. 
 
 "Antonio Carlos and Martin Francisco had no sooner returned 
 to their native province, than they were immediately restored by 
 their countrymen to important offices, and have ever since retained 
 a prominent position in the national councils. They have, more- 
 over, continued the same ardent and fearless advocates of their 
 principles that they Avere in early life. 
 
 "It has been said, and perhaps justly, that 'the Andradas, when 
 in power, were arbitrary, and, when out of place, f^^ctious; but 
 their views were ever great, and their probity unimpeachable.' 
 Their disinterestedness was manifest, and is deserving of eulogy. 
 Title and wealth were within their reach ; but they retired from 
 office undecorated, and in honorable poverty. In many of their 
 acts they were doubtless censurable; yet, when the critical circum- 
 stances of Brazil at the period are taken into consideration, surely 
 some apology may be made for their errors. When old age re- 
 quired Jose Bonifjicio to withdraw from public business, he retired 
 to the beautiful island of Paqueta, in the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. 
 He died in 1838; and, if there is any one fact that more loudly 
 
376 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 than another iipbraids the lack of literary enterpi'ise in Brazil, it 
 is that no memoir of so distinguished an individual has made its 
 appearance, or, so far as I could learn from his brothers, was ever 
 contemplated. 
 
 "Both Antonio Carlos and Martin Francisco are distinguished, 
 powerful orators. The latter is clear, expressive, and chaste in 
 his diction ; the former is fluent, impetuous, and sometimes extra- 
 vagant. Antonio Carlos is particularly fond of the arena of debate, 
 and few questions come before the Provincial or National Assembly 
 which are not subjected to the searching analysis of his acute mind 
 and to the often-dreaded ordeal of his flaming rhetoric. His speeches 
 abound in beautiful illustrations from the French, Spanish, Italian, 
 and English poets; and, when discussing questions of jurisprudence 
 and diplomacy, his references display a critical acquaintance with 
 standard English authors upon those subjects. As a random speci- 
 men of his style of eloquence, I will ti'anslate a paragraph from his 
 Bpeech in the General Assembl}^ at Rio de Janeiro, in 1839, on the 
 much-debated question whether foreign troops should be hired to 
 compose the standing army of the Empire. 
 
 "After having gone through with an elaborate argument, he 
 Bays, 'I am unwilling to weary the house. I have proved that the 
 measure is anti-constitutional, that it is injurious to the dignity 
 of Brazil, that it is useless, that it is impolitic, and that it will be 
 oppressive to the nation. 
 
 "'Now I must close. It pains me to think that such a measure 
 can possibly be approved. Such is the aversion I cherish toward 
 it, that I am caused to fear that, if it should pass, some of our 
 citizens will wish themselves alienated from the land of their birth; 
 alienated, I was about to say, from a degraded nation. But this 
 tongue cannot utter such a reproach, nor this heart anticijsate 
 such an injury, to the Brazilian people. 
 
 "'Every night, when I seek rest upon my humble couch, the 
 first act of devotion I render to God is a thanksgiving that I was 
 born upon this blessed soil, — in a countJj^ in Avhich innocence and 
 liberty were natives, but from which they temporarily fled away 
 on the approach of those iron fetters of social bondage which 
 Cabral, tlie accidental discoverer, imported in connection with the 
 limited civilization of Portugal. 
 
Antonio Carlos and Alvares Machado. 377 
 
 •' * Eis, descobreis Cabral os Brazis nao buscados, 
 C OS salgados vestidos gotejando, 
 Pesado beijas as douradas pray as, 
 E 4s Gentes que te hospedao, ignaras 
 Do Vindouro, os grilboes lan9as, 
 Miserandos ! Entao a liberdade, 
 As azas nao manchadas de baixa tyrannia 
 Soltou isenta pelos ares livres. 
 
 "' So it was an infamous series of oppressive laws and sliameful 
 proscriptions was imposed upon our poor ancestors, and would 
 have rested upon us to-day, had not the grand achievement of our 
 national indej^endence set us free ! Allow me to remark a startling 
 coincidence. To-morrow will be the anniversary of that indepen- 
 dence, — an event ever to be remembered. To-day an effort is made, 
 which, if successful, will throw clouds and gloom over it, and thus 
 efface the brightest picture in our history. 
 
 "'How is it that we, who were able to shake off the yoke of 
 foreign bondage without the aid of mercenary troops; are supposed 
 to be incompetent to crush rebellion within our own borders? 
 Shameful reflection ! Is Bento Gonsalves some European adven- 
 turer? No! be is a Brazilian, like us; and least of all can he 
 withstand Brazilians. 
 
 "'My heart is overflowing, but my tongue fails to express my 
 thoughts. If this measure pass, I shall have nothing left me to 
 do but to hide my head, and to weep and sigh, in the language of 
 Moore, — 
 
 " ' Alas for my country ! her pride is gone by. 
 
 And that spirit is broken which never would bend : 
 O'er the ruin her children in secret must sigh, — 
 For 'tis treason to love her, 'tis death to defend.' 
 
 " An intimate friend and political associate of Antonio Carlos is 
 Senhor Alvares Machado, another aged Paulista, also celebrated 
 for his prompt and often passionate eloquence. A brief extract 
 from one of his speeches in the Chamber of Deputies forcibly 
 expresses the provincial pride which the Paulistas cherish to- 
 gether with their sentiments of independence. 'How,' said he, 
 'can the present administration expect to intimidate us, who never 
 succumbed to the founder of the Empire? We spoke the language 
 
378 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of liberty, of justice, and of truth, to a king and the descendant of 
 kings. 
 
 ** ' On one occasion it was proposed to construct our constitution 
 after the monarchial model, and to accom2:)lish this intrigues were 
 set on foot in all the provinces. What then was our language ? 
 "Sire," said we to the monarch, "despotism may be planted in the 
 province of S. Paulo, but it will be upon the bones of the last of 
 her inhabitants."' 
 
 "Another prominent member of the provincial legislature of 
 S. Paulo was Vergueiro, a Senator of the Empire. This gentle- 
 man, a Portuguese by birth, has long been conspicuous in Brazil. 
 Previous to the independence of the colony, he was one of the 
 deputies to the Cortes of Lisbon, and had there distinguished him- 
 self above most of his colleagues for the open and explicit manner 
 in which he defended the interests and privileges of the land of his 
 adoption. Subsequently, while in the Brazilian Senate, he main- 
 tained his reputation as a skilful debater and a sincere friend of 
 liberal institutions. During the scenes connected with the abdication 
 of the first Emjjeror, he acted an important part, and, as has 
 already been stated, was appointed at the head of the provisional 
 Eegency. 
 
 " During one of my visits to the Provincial Assembly of S. Paulo, 
 this gentleman made a long and interesting speech on the subject 
 of the outbreak and disorders at Villa Franca. 
 
 "The sessions of this legislative body are held in an apartment 
 of the old College of the Jesuits, which has long since been appro- 
 priated to the uses of the Government. My attendance upon its 
 deliberations was not very frequent, although several of my visits 
 were quite interesting. Probably no provincial legislature in the 
 Empire presented a greater array of learning, of experience, and 
 of talent, than did this. At the period of w^hich I am speaking, 
 Martin Francisco de Andrada occupied the Presidential chair, while 
 Senhores Antonio Carlos, Yergueiro, Alvares Machado, Eaphael 
 Tobias, the Bishops of S. Paulo, of Cuyaba, and Moura, the Bishop- 
 elect of Rio de Janeiro, with various other gentlemen of distinction, 
 took part in the proceedings. 
 
 "At the close of one of the sessions, I had the pleasure of meet- 
 ing several of these gentlemen in a saloon adjoining the hall of 
 
A Proposition to Eecede from Rome. 379 
 
 debates, and of hearing from them the warmest expressions of 
 American feelinic and of a o-enerous interest in the affairs of the 
 United States. 
 
 "Antonio Maria de Moiira was considered the special representa- 
 tive of the ecclesiastical interests in this legislature. This indi- 
 vidual had gained a great degree of notoriety during a few years 
 previous. He had been nominated by the Imperial Government to 
 till the vacant bishopric of Eio de Janeiro. The Pope of Eome 
 was, for some reasons, displeased with the nomination, and accord- 
 ingly refused to consecrate him. This circumstance gave occasion 
 for long diplomatic negotiations, and for a time threatened to in- 
 terrupt friendly relations between Brazil and the Holy See. For 
 several years questions relating to this subject were frequently 
 and freely discussed before the National Assembly. During these 
 debates expressions were often used not the most complimentary to 
 His Holiness, and facts of a startling character were brought to 
 view. For example, a reverend padre, in speaking on the subject, 
 alluded to a canonical objection to this candidate, which, he said, was 
 very generally known, — viz. : 'the illegitimacy of his birth: 'that, 
 however, was a trifling matter, it having been dispensed with in 
 the case of two of the actual bishops of the Empire. But this 
 gentleman had signed a report declaring against the forced celibacy 
 of the clergy, and, when interrogated by His Holiness on the 
 subject, had refused to give explanations.'* 
 
 " The longer this subject was discussed, the wider the difference 
 seemed to grow. The Pope was unwilling to recede from his 
 position, and the Brazilians resolved not to brook dictation fiom 
 the Pope. 
 
 ''The proposition to make the Brazilian church independent of 
 His Holiness was more than once started, and it was finding 
 increased favor with the people. But the question was regarded 
 solely in its political bearings. Consequently, it became an object 
 for the Government to settle it in the easiest way practicable. On 
 the accession of a new ministry, measures were adopted to satisfy 
 Moura and to induce him to step out of the way. Accordingly, 
 
 * See Jornal do Commercio, Juue 30, 1839. 
 
380 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 he was at length persuaded to waive his claim, and to resign ai. 
 office which he could not be permitted to fill peaceably. The ques- 
 tion was then easily disposed of. _The Government made another 
 nomination, which the Pope approved, — at the same time compli- 
 menting the rejected candidate with the title and dignities of 
 bishoji in partibus infidelium. At the time I met him. Padre Moura 
 did not appear to be over thirty-five years of age. His demeanor 
 was aff'able and his conversation iutei"esting. He was understood 
 to be the confidential adviser and assistant of the old Bishoj) of S. 
 Paulo. He had been for a series of years engaged in political 
 life, and will probably continue in similar engagements, since they 
 will be in no wise inconsistent with the obligations of his office of 
 bishop in partibus. 
 
 " I had the honor of more than one interview with the ex-Regent 
 Feijo. The first was in company with an intimate friend of his, in 
 the lower room of a large house, where he was staying as a guest, 
 in the city of S. Paulo. There were no ceremonies. His reverence 
 appeared to have been lying down in an adjoining alcove, and had 
 hastily risen. His di'ess was not clerical. In fact, his garments 
 were composed of light striped cotton, and appeared b}" no means 
 new; while his beai^d was apparently quite too long for comfort in 
 so warm a day. He was short and corpulent, about sixty j^ears of 
 age, but of a robust and healthful appearance. His countenance 
 and cranium bore an intellectual stamp and conveyed a benevolent 
 expression, although there might have been something peculiar in 
 the look of his eyes, which gave rise to a remark made to me before 
 I saw him, that he had 'the physiognomy of a cat.' His conver- 
 sation was free and very interesting. My friend mentioned to 
 him that I had made several inquiries respecting the customs of the 
 clergy and the state of education and religion in the country. He 
 proceeded to comment upon these several topics, and expressed no 
 little dissatisfaction with the actual state of things, particularly 
 among the clergy. He said 'there was scarcely a priest in the 
 whole province that did his duty as the Church pi-escribed it, and 
 especially with reference to catechizing children on the Lord's 
 day.' 
 
 "He was on the eve of a journey to Itu and Campinas, and, being 
 asked when he would set out, replied, Dizem no Domingo, ('Sunday 
 
Proposition to Abolish Clerical Celibacy. 381 
 
 is talked of;') thus indicating that even he himself had not too high 
 a respect for the institution of the Sabbath-day. On another oc- 
 casion I called on him at his own house in Eio de Janeiro, while 
 he was in attendance on the Senate, of which he was a member, 
 and for a long time president. It was in the morning, and I found 
 him alone in his parlor, occupied with his brevnary; while at the 
 same time there lay on the table by which he was sitting afaca de 
 ponta, or pointed knife, of the species already described, enclosed 
 in a silver sheath. I presented him with copies of some tracts that 
 we had just j)ublished in the Portuguese language for circulation in 
 the country. He received them courteously, and again entered 
 into conversation I'especting various plans for the religious amelio- 
 ration of Brazil. He, however, seemed to have little faith, and less 
 spirit, for making further exertions, having been repeatedly baffled 
 in his cherished projects for improvement. So little encourage- 
 ment, indeed, had he met with from his brethren .the clergy, that 
 he was inclined to compare some of them to the dog in the manger, 
 since they would neither do good themselves, nor allow others to 
 do it. 
 
 '' Feijo is a remarkable man. Like many others among the Bra- 
 zilian clergj', he entered upon a jjolitical career in early life, and 
 laid aside the practical duties of the priesthood. His abandon- 
 ment of the Cortes of Portugal, to which he had been elected in 
 the reign of Dom John YI., has already been mentioned. 
 
 "After the establishment of the independent Government of 
 Brazil, he became a prominent member of the House of Deputies. 
 During a debate in that body he listened to what seems at first to 
 have struck him as a veiy strange proposition, — viz.: 'that the 
 clergy of Brazil were not bound by the law of celibacy.' Coming, 
 however, as the statement did, from a gentleman of great learning 
 and probity, it secured his candid attention. Subsequent reflection, 
 while meditating upon the means of reforming the clerg}-, and 
 examining the annals of Christianity, convinced him not only that 
 the proposition was correct, but also that the most fruitful source 
 of all the evils that affected this important class of men was a 
 forced celibacy. Whereupon, as a member of the Committee on 
 Ecclesiastical Affairs, he offered to the House his views on the sub- 
 ject in the form of a minority report. 
 
382 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 "In this report be proposed, 'that since celibacy was neither en- 
 joined upon the clergy by divine law nor apostolical institutions, 
 but, on the contrary, was the source of immorality among them; 
 therefore, the Assembly should revoke the laws that constrained 
 it, and notify the Pope of Eome of the necessity of revoking the 
 ecclesiastical j)enalties against clerical matrimony; and, in case 
 these were not revoked within a given time, that they should be 
 nullified.' 
 
 "As a matter of course, such a report, coming from an ecclesias- 
 tic of high standing, excited a great deal of attention. To the 
 surprise of many, it was received with great favor by both priests 
 and peojDle. This circumstance, together with his o-wn convictions 
 of duty, prompted the author to develop his opinions at length' 
 and in a systematical treatise. Thus originated his celebrated work 
 on Clerical Celibacy. From the remarks of a competent critic on 
 that work, we select the following: — 'It is really a novelty in the 
 literary world. We can, in truth, say no less than this : — that the 
 book contains unquestionably the best argument ever advanced, in 
 any Papal or Protestant country, against the constrained celibacy 
 of priests and nuns. It sets forth all that a Protestant can say, and 
 what a Eoman Catholic priest, in spite of every early prejudice, is 
 constrained to say, against a cruel and unnatural law, enacted 
 against the immovable law of the almighty Ci'cator.' 
 
 "The author is master in ancient as well as in modern Catholic 
 lore, — in canon law, and in the writings of the fathers; and we 
 should be no less amazed than instructed by seeing any one of his 
 brother-prelates in America or in Europe come out with any thing 
 like a rational answer to 'Feijo's Demonstration of the Neces- 
 sity OF Abolishing Clerical Celibacy.' 
 
 "Notwithstanding the violent attacks made upon him in con- 
 nection with this startling attempt at innovation, yet he was sub- 
 sequently elevated to the highest offices in the gift of the nation. 
 He was, successively, appointed Minister of State, Eegent of the 
 Empire, and Senator for life. 
 
 " He was, moreover, elected by the Imperial Government as 
 Bishop of Mariana, a diocese which included the rich and important 
 province of Minas-Geraes. He, however, did not see fit to accept 
 this dignity, but, on resigning his Eegency, returned to his planta- 
 
The Death of Distinguished Men. 383 
 
 tion, a few miles from the city of S. Paulo, where he resided during 
 my visit to that part of Brazil. 
 
 "After that period his health declined, and a pension of four 
 thousand milreis per annum was conceded to him, in consideration 
 of his distinguished services in the past. In 1843 he died." 
 
 Since the above was written by my co-laborer in this work, many 
 of the leading men whom he met at San Paulo have gone to their 
 rest. Antonio Carlos, Martin Francisco de Andrada, and Alvares 
 Machado, are no more. The constitutional Empire which, with 
 self-sacrificing toil, they aided in erecting, and for which they suf- 
 fered in the crucible of political persecution, exists on a firm foun- 
 dation, and their labors are not forgotten, though as yet no lofty 
 monument rears its form to tell of their true patriotism. 
 
 Antonio Carlos de Andrada expired on the 5th of December, 
 1845, and from the Necrologia in the Annuario do Brazil for 1846 I 
 extract the following testimonial to his talent, worth, and states- 
 manship. It may be remarked that, if every foreigner who investi- 
 gates the character of the deceased finds so much to command 
 his admiration, we should pardon the high strain of eulogium pro- 
 nounced by his countrymen upon one who, for so vcisnij years, nobly 
 filled the first places in the gift of the monarch and the people. 
 
 ''The Assemblea Gcral of 1844 being dissolved, Antonio Carlos de 
 Andrada was, in 1845, newly elected Deputy for his native province 
 of San Paulo. But he had scarcely been informed of his election 
 by the Paulistas, when he heard that he had been chosen Senator 
 for Pern ambuco, after having also received the poj)ular votes of the 
 provinces of Para, Minas, Ceara, and Eio de Janeiro. He took his 
 seat thus late in life in the Senate-chamber, — a tardy recompense 
 for his great merit. 
 
 "In literature, in Parliament, and in the whole Empire, his death 
 left a great void, which will long be felt by all his compatriots. 
 
 "With no other ambition save that of serving his country, — the 
 sole glor}^ desired by his generous heart, — he neither desired nor 
 sought for honors. 
 
 "The Councillor Carlos Antonio de Andrada was of medium 
 height and of a robust constitution : every feature of his face ex- 
 pressed genius, feeling, and energy of mind. Of easj^ and graceful 
 manners, mild and jovial in familiar conversation, he rendered 
 
384 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 himself agreeable to every one who api^roached him. Severe for 
 himself, be was indulgent to others, and ready to pardon an offence 
 or an injustice done to him. He was a devoted friend, and a gene- 
 rous adversary to bis competitors in public life: be never employed 
 his power to injure others, but always to protect the Aveak. An 
 excellent fatbei-, a loving husband, the best of brothers, — there was 
 not a single domestic virtue which was not found in Antonio 
 Carlos!" 
 
 What matters it if to such a man no monumental stone be 
 erected ? — 
 
 " The fame is lost -which it imparts : 
 Who for his dust a tear would claim 
 Must write his name on living hearts." 
 
 The conclusion of the eulogy to the deceased statesman is the 
 highest encomium that could be pronounced upon a public man in a 
 government where, too often, those in power have not scrupled to 
 enrich themselves at the expense of the State. 
 
 There is the noblest and most eloquent praise in the simple fact 
 and statement, — viz.: "Such was the Councillor Antonio Carlos 
 de Andrada: he lived and died poor!" 
 
 The following details of the missionary efforts of ni}'- colleague 
 and predecessor will be found, I doubt not, deeply interesting: — 
 
 " Allhough two hundred years had elapsed since the discovery 
 and first settlement of the province of San Paulo, it is not known 
 that a Protestant minister of the gospel had ever visited it before. 
 Although colonized with the ostensible purpose of converting the 
 natives, and subsequently inhabited by scores of monks and jjriests, 
 there is no j^robability that ever before a j)erson had entered its 
 domains, carrying copies of the word of life in the vernacular 
 tongue, with the express intent of putting them in the hands of the 
 people. 
 
 "It is necessary to remind the reader, that, throughout the entire 
 continent to which i*efcrence is now made, public assemblies for the 
 puri)ose of addresses and instruction are wholly unknown. The 
 people often assemble at mass and at religious festivals, and nearly 
 as often at the theatre; but in neither place do they hear principles 
 discussed or truth developed. The sermons in the former case are 
 seldom much more than eulogiums on the virtues of a saint, with 
 
Hospitalities of a Padke. 385 
 
 exhortations to follow his or her example. Indeed, the whole sys- 
 tem of means by which, in Protestant countries, access is had to 
 the public mind, is unpractised and unknown. The stranger, there- 
 fore, and especially the supposed heretic, who would labor for the 
 promotion of true religion, must expect to avail himself of provi- 
 dential openings rather than to rely on previously-concerted plans. 
 The missionary, in such cii'cumstances, learns a lesson of great 
 practical importance to himself, — to wit, that he should be grateful 
 for any occasion, however small, of attempting to do good in the 
 name of his Master. The romantic notions which some entertain 
 of a mission-field may become chastened and humbled by contact 
 with the cold reality of facts; but the Christian heart will not be 
 rendered harder, nor genuine faith less susceptible of an entire 
 reliance on God. 
 
 "The unexpected friendship and aid of mine aged host at San 
 Bernardo, already mentioned, was not a circumstance to be lightly 
 esteemed. Scarcely less expected was the provision made for me, 
 at the city of S. Paulo, of letters of introduction to gentlemen of 
 the first respectability in the various places of the interior which I 
 wished to visit. At one of those places, the individual to whom I 
 was thus addressed, and by whom I was entertained, was a Eoman 
 Catholic priest; and it affords me unfeigned satisfaction to say, 
 that the hospitality which I received under his roof was just what 
 the stranger in a strange land would desire. 
 
 ""When on reaching the town where he lived I first called at his 
 house, the padre had been absent about two weeks, but was then 
 hourly expected to return. His nephew, a young gentleman in 
 charge of the premises, insisted on my remaining, and directed my 
 guide to a pasture for his mules. In a country where riding upon 
 the saddle is almost the only way of travelling, it has become an 
 act of politeness to invite the traveller, on his fii-st arrival, to rest 
 upon a bed or a sofa. This kindness, having been accepted in the 
 present instance, was in due time followed by a warm bath, and 
 afterward by an excellent but a solitary dinner. Before my repast 
 was ended, a party of horsemen passed by the window, among 
 whom was the padre for whom I was waiting. After reading the 
 letter which I brought, he entered the room and bade me a cordial 
 welcome. He had arrived in company with the ex-Regent Feijo, 
 
 25 
 
386 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 with whom I had previously enjoyed an interview at the city of S. 
 Paulo, and from whom ho had received notices of me, as inquiring 
 into the religious state of the countrj^. My way was thus made easy 
 to introduce the special topic of my mission. On showing me his 
 library, — a very respectable collection of books, — he distinguished, 
 as his favorite work, Calmet's Bible, in French, in twenty-six 
 volumes. He had no Bible or Testament in Portuguese. I told 
 him I had heard that an edition was about to be published at Eio, 
 with notes and comments, under the patronage and sanction of the 
 Archbishop. This project had been set on foot in order to counter- 
 act the circulation of the edition* of the Bible-societies, but was 
 never carried into effect. He knew nothing of it. He had heard, 
 however, that Bibles in the vulgar tongue had been sent to Eio de 
 Janeiro, as to other parts of the world, which could be procured 
 gratis, or for a trifling consideration. Judge of the happy surprise 
 with which I heard from his lips that some of these Bibles had 
 already appeared in this neighborhood, three hundred miles distant 
 from our depository at Eio. His first remark was, that he did not 
 know how much good would come from their perusal, on account 
 of the bad example of their bishops and priests. I informed him 
 frankl}^ that I was one of the persons engaged in distributing these 
 Bibles, and endeavored to explain the motives of our enterjirise, 
 which he seemed to appreciate. 
 
 *'He said Catholicism was nearly abandoned here and all the 
 world over. I assured him that I saw abundant proofs of its 
 existence and influence; but he seemed to consider these 'the 
 form without the power.' Our convei-sation was here interrupted; 
 but, having an oi:)portunity to renew it in the evening, I remarked 
 that, knowing me to be a minister of religion, he had reason to 
 suppose I would have more pleasure in conversing on that subject 
 than upon any other. 
 
 "I then told him I did not comprehend what he meant by saying 
 that Catholicism was nearly abandoned. He proceeded to explain 
 that there was scai'cely an}- thing of the spirit of religion among 
 either priests or people. He, being only a diacono, had the pi'ivilege 
 of criticizing others. He was strong in the opinion that the laws 
 enjoining clerical celibacy should be abolished, since the clergy 
 were almost all de facto much worse than married, to the infinite 
 
An Interesting Conversation. 387 
 
 ecandal of religion ; that such was their ignorance that many 
 of them ought to sit at the feet of their own people to be in- 
 structed in the common doctrines of Christianity; that the spirit 
 of infidelity had been of late rapidly spreading, and infecting the 
 young, to the destruction of that external respect for religion and 
 the fear of God which used to be hereditary. Infidel books were 
 common, especially Yolney's 'Euins.' I asked whether things were 
 growing better or worse. ' Worse/ he replied ; ' worse continually I' 
 ' What means are taken to render them better?' 'jSTone ! We are 
 waiting the interference of Pi'ovidence.' I told him there were 
 many pious persons who would gladly come to their aid if it were 
 certain they would be permitted to do the work of the Lord. He 
 thought they would be well received if they brought the truth; 
 meaning, probably, if they were Eoman Catholics. 
 
 "I asked him what report I should give to the religious world 
 respecting Bi-azil. 'Say that we arc in darkness, behind the age, 
 and almost abandoned.' 'But -that you wish for light ?' 'That we 
 wish for nothing. We are hoping in God, the Father of lights.' 
 
 "I proceeded to ask him what was better calculated to counter- 
 act the influence of those infidel and demoralizing works he had 
 referred to than the word of God. 'Nothing,' was the reply. 
 'How much good, then, is it possible you youi'self might do, both 
 to your country and to immortal souls, by devoting yourself to the 
 true work of an evangelist !' He assented, and hoped that some 
 day he should be engaged in it. 
 
 "I had before placed in. his hands two or three copies of the New 
 Testament, to be given to persons who would receive j^rofit from 
 them, and which he had received with the greatest satisfaction. 
 I now told him that whenever he was disposed to enter upon the 
 work of distributing the Scriptures we could forward them to him 
 in any quantity needed. He assured me that he would at any 
 time be happy to take such a charge upon himself; that when the 
 books were received he would circulate them throughout all the 
 neighboring country, and write an account of the manner of their 
 disposal. We accordingly closed an arrangement, which subse- 
 quently proved highly efficient and interesting. When I showed 
 him some tracts in Portuguese, he requested that a quantity of 
 them should accompany the remission of Bibles. On my asking 
 
388 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 how the ex-Regent and others like him would regard the circula- 
 tion of the Scriptures among the people, he said they would rejoice 
 in it, and that the propriety of the enterprise would scarcely admit 
 of discussion. 'Then/ said I, 'when we are engaged in this work 
 we can have the satisfaction to know that we are doing what the 
 better part of 3'our own clergy approve.' 'Certainly,' he replied: 
 'you are doing what we ought to be doing ourselves.' 
 
 "Seldom have I spent a night more happily than the one which 
 followed, although sleep was disposed to flee from my eyelids. I 
 was overwhelmed with a sense of the goodness and providence of 
 God, in thus directing my way to the very person out of hundreds 
 best qualified, both in circumstances and disposition, to aid in pro- 
 moting our great work. This fact was illustrated in the circum- 
 stance that, although I had a most cordial letter of introduction to 
 the vigario of the same village, which I left at his house, I did not 
 see him at all, he happening to be out when I called. To use the 
 expression of a gentleman acquainted with the circumstances, 'he 
 Lid himself,' as though fearing the consequences of an interview, 
 and, by not showing at least the customary civilities to a stranger, 
 gi'eatly offended the gentleman who had given me the letter. The 
 padre whose kindness I experienced had jjaused in his clerical 
 course some years before, and was engaged in the legal profession, 
 although he retained his title and character as a priest. In corre- 
 spondence with this circumstance, there is scarcely any department 
 of civil or political life in which priests are not often found. After 
 the second night I was under the necessity of taking leave of him 
 in order to pursue my journey. 
 
 "At another village, a young gentleman who had been educated 
 in Germany was often in my room, and rendered himself very 
 agreeable by his frank and intelligent conversation. He repre- 
 sented this to be one of the most religious places in the country, 
 having a large number of churches and priests in proportion to 
 the population. In one church particularly the priests w^ere un- 
 usually strict, and, in the judgment of my informant, quite fana- 
 tical. They always wore their distinguishing habit, Avere correct 
 in their moral deportment, required j^ersons belonging to their 
 circle to commune very often, and, moreover, discountenanced 
 theatres. This latter circumstance was unusual ; for, in addition 
 
How Suicide is Restrained. 389 
 
 to the cleigy being often present at such amusements, there was 
 even in that place the instance of a theatre attached to a church. 
 
 ''I introduced to this young gentleman the subject of circulating 
 the Bible. He at once acknowledged the importance of the enter- 
 prise, and expressed great desires that it should go forward; saying 
 that the Brazilians, once understanding the objects, of the friends 
 of the Bible, could not but appreciate them in the most grateful 
 manner. He proposed to converse with his friends, to see what 
 could be done toward distributing copies among them. I put two 
 Testaments in his hands as specimens. The next morning he told 
 me that, having exhibited them the evening previous to a company 
 of young persons, there had arisen a universal demand for them, 
 and many became highly urgent not to be overlooked in the distri- 
 bution. He consequently repeated his assurance that the sacred 
 books would be received with universal delight, and requested a 
 number of copies to be sent to his address. I was told that here 
 also many of the rising generation had very little respect for reli- 
 gion, through the influence of infidel writings and of other causes. 
 The apology for almost any license was, 'I am a bad Catholic.' 
 The people generally assented to the dogmas of the Church, but 
 seldom complied with its requirements, excei:)t when obliged to do 
 so by their parents or prompted by the immediate fear of death. 
 The rules requiring abstinence from meats on Wednesdays and 
 Fridays, also during Lent, had been abolished by a dispensation 
 from the diocesan bishop for the last six years, and the Provincial 
 Assembly had just asked a repetition of the same favor. The deci- 
 sion of the bishop had not then transjMred, but many of the people 
 were expressing a disposition to live as they should list, be it 
 either way. 
 
 "Just previous to my visit to this place, a young man of a re- 
 spectable family, having sunk his fortune in an attempted specula- 
 tion on a newly-arrived cargo of African slaves, had committed 
 suicide. It was said to be the first instance of that crime ever 
 known in the vicinity, and the result was an unusual excitement 
 among all classes. I may here observe, that suicide is exceedingly 
 rare throughout the whole of Brazil; and there can be but little 
 question that the rules of the Church, depriving its victim of Chris- 
 tian burial, have exerted a good influence in investing the subject 
 
390 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 with a suitable horror and detestation. Would to Heaven a similar 
 influence had Ijcen exerted against other sins equally damning but 
 more insidious ! The very abomination of moral desolation could 
 exist in the same community almost unrebuked. 
 
 "At a third village I was entertained by a merchant of truly 
 liberal ideas and of unbounded hospitality. He also offered to co- 
 operate with me in the circulation of the sacred volumes, not only 
 in his own town, but also in the regions beyond. 
 
 "Having accomplished a journey of about two hundred miles 
 under very favorable circumstances, I again reached the city of 
 S. Paulo. 1 had not stayed so long in various places as I should 
 have been interested and happy to do, in compliance with urgent 
 invitations. I had, however, important reasons for not indulging 
 my pleasure in this respect. My mind had dwelt intensely upon 
 the state of the country, as shown by facts communicated to me 
 from various and unexceptionable sources. I had anxiously in- 
 quired how something for its good might be accomplished ; whether 
 there was any possibility of exceeding the slow and circumscribed 
 limits of private personal communication of the truth. Hope, in 
 answer, had sprung up in my mind, and was beginning to be 
 cherished with fond expectation. 
 
 • "From the idea of distributing a couple of dozens of Testaments 
 in several schools of the city, I was led to think of the practica- 
 bility of introducing the same as reading-books in the schools 
 of the whole province. This seemed to be more desirable from the 
 fact, universally affirmed, that there then prevailed an almost entire 
 destitution of any books for such use in the schools. The Mont- 
 pellier Catechism was more used for this purpose than any other 
 book; but it had little efficacy in fixing religious principles ujjon a 
 proper basis, to resist the undermining process of infidelity. 
 
 "Encouraged by the uniform thankfulness of those individuals to 
 whom I presented copies, and also by the judgment of all to whom 
 I had thought proper to suggest the idea, I had finally resolved to 
 offer to the Government, in some approved form, a donation of 
 Testaments corresponding in ma-gnitude to the wants of the pro- 
 vince. Fortunately I had, in the secretary and senior professor 
 of the univei'sity, a friend fully competent to counsel and aid in the 
 prosecution of this enterprise. I laid the whole subject before him. 
 
Proposition to the Provincial Assembly. 391 
 
 He informed me that the proper method of securing the object 
 would be by means of an order from the Provincial Assembly, 
 (if that body should see fit to pass one,) directing the teachers 
 of schools to receive said books for use. 
 
 "Early next morning he called with me to propose the subject 
 to various prominent members of the Legislative Assembly. \Ye 
 visited gentlemen belonging to both political parties : two priests, 
 one a doctor in medicine and the other a professor in the Academy 
 of Laws; the Bishop-elect of Eio de Janeiro, who was confidential 
 adviser of the old Bishop of S. Paulo, — the latter also belonging to 
 the Assembly ; and at length the Andradas. Each of these gentle- 
 men entertained the proposition in the most respectful manner, 
 and expressed the opinion that it could not fail to be well received 
 by the Assembly. The bishop, who was chairman of one of the 
 committees to which it would naturally be referred, said he would 
 spare no effort on his part to carry so laudable a design into effect. 
 He, together with one of the padres referred to, had purchased 
 copies of the Bible, at the depository in Eio, for their own use, 
 and highly approved of the edition we circulated. 
 
 "Our visit to the Andradas was peculiarly interesting. These 
 venerable men, both crowned with hoary haii'S and almost worn 
 out in the service of their country, received me with gratifying 
 expressions of regard toward the United States, and assurances 
 of entire reciprocity of feeling toward Christians who might not 
 be of the Eonian Church. They were acquainted with, and appre- 
 ciated the efforts of, the Bible Societies : they, moreover, highly 
 approved of the universal use of the Scriptures, especially of the 
 New Testament. They pronounced the offer I was about to make 
 to be not only unexceptionable, but truly generous, and said that 
 nothing in their power should be wanting to carry it into full 
 effect. Indeed, Martin Francisco, the president of the Assembly, 
 on parting, said that it gave him hapj^iness to reflect that their 
 province might be the first to set the example of introducing the 
 word of God to its public schools. Senhor Antonio Carlos, at the 
 same time, received some copies of the Testament as specimens of 
 the translation, Avhich, with the following document, as chairman 
 of the Committee on Public Instruction, he presented in course of 
 the session for that day : — 
 
392 ±5razil and the Brazilians. 
 
 '^'Proposition to the Honorable Legislature, the Provincial Assembly 
 of the Imperial Province of S. Paulo. 
 
 " * "Whereas, having visited this province as a stranger, and having 
 received high satisfaction, not only in the observation of those natural 
 advantages of climate, soil, and productions with which a benignant 
 Providence has so eminently distinguished it, but also in the gene- 
 rous hospitality and esteemed acquaintance of various citizens; and, 
 
 " 'Whereas, in making some inquiries upon the subject of educa- 
 tion, having been repeatedly informed of a great want of reading- 
 books in the primary schools, especially in the interior; and, 
 
 '''Whereas, having relations with the American Bible Society, 
 located in New York, the fundamental object of which is to distri- 
 bute the Word of God, without note or comment, in different parts 
 of the world ; and, whereas the New Testament of our Lord and 
 Saviour Jesus Christ is a choice specimen of style, as well on sub- 
 jects historical as moral and religious, in addition to embodying 
 the jiure and sacred truths of our holy Christianity, the knowledge 
 of which is of so high importance to every individual, both as a 
 human being and as a member of society ; and, 
 
 " 'Whereas, having the most unlimited confidence in the philan- 
 thropic benevolence of said Society, and in its willingness to co- 
 operate for the good of this country, in common with all others, 
 and especially in view of the happy relations existing between two 
 prominent nations of the New World : therefore I propose to 
 guarantee, on the part of the said American Bible Society, the free 
 donation of copies of the New Testament, translated into Portu- 
 guese by the Padre Antonio Pereira de Figueiredo, in sufficient 
 number to furnish every primary school in the province with a 
 library of one dozen, — on the simple condition that said copies shall 
 be received as delivered at the Alfandega (Custom-House) of Eio 
 de Janeiro, and caused to be distributed among, preserved in, and 
 used by, the said several schools, as books of general reading and 
 instriLCtion for the pupils of the same. 
 
 " 'With the most sincere desires for the moral and civil prosperity 
 of the Imperial province of San Paulo, the above proposition is 
 humbly and respectfully submitted. " 'D. P. Kidder. 
 
 *' 'City of San Paulo, Feb. 15, 1839.' 
 
 "The same day I received a verbal message, saying that the 
 Assembly had received the proposition with peculiar satisfaction, 
 and referred it to the two committees on ecclesiastical affairs and 
 on public instruction. The following official communication was 
 subsequently received : — 
 
Response and Results. 393 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " 'To Mr. Kidder : — I inform you that the Legislative Assembly- 
 has received with especial satisfaction your offer of copies of the 
 New Testament, translated by the Padre Antonio Pereira de 
 Figueiredo, and that the Legislature will enter into a deliberation 
 upon the subject, the result of which will be communicated to you. 
 
 " • God preserve you 1 
 
 "'Miguel Eufrazio de Azevedo Marquez, Sec. 
 
 " 'Palace of the Provincial Assembly, 
 S. Paulo, Feb. 20, 1839.' 
 
 } 
 
 "Among other acquaintances formed at S.Paulo was that of a 
 clergyman, another professor in the Law University. His con- 
 versation was frank and interesting, and his views unusually 
 liberal. He gave as emphatic an account as I have heard from 
 any one of the unhappy abandonment of all vital godliness and 
 of the unworthiness of many of the clergy. He approved of the 
 enterprise of the Bible Societies, and cheerfully consented to pro- 
 mote it within the circle of his influence by distributing Bibles 
 and tracts, and reporting their utility. Exchanging addresses 
 with this gentleman, I left him, entertaining a high estimation 
 of his good intentions, and with ardent hopes that he might yet be 
 greatly useful in the regeneration of his Church and in the salva- 
 tion of his countrymen. 
 
 "Thus were happily completed arrangements with persons of 
 the first respectability and influence, in each principal place of the 
 interior which I had visited, that they should distribute the word 
 of God among their fellow-citizens. All the copies that I brought 
 were already disposed of, and there was a pi'ospect that the day 
 was not distant when it could be said that a Roman Catholic Legis- 
 lature had fully sanctioned the use of the Holy Scriptures in the 
 public schools of their entire territory. I was told, on the best 
 authority, that the committees of the Assembly were drafting a 
 joint report, recommending compliance with the offer by means 
 of an order on the treasury for the funds needed in payment of the 
 duties and the expense of distribution. 
 
 "Such circumstances as the results of this short visit were so far 
 bej^ond the most sanguine anticipation, that, on leaving, I found it 
 difficult to restrain my feelings of gratitude and delight for what 
 mine eyes had seen and mine ears had heard. 
 
394 Brazil and the iiRAziLiANS. 
 
 "In conclusion, it becomes necessary to add that, owing to the 
 n.gitatious and intrigues common to most political bodies, action in 
 reference to my proposition was delayed beyond the exj)ectation 
 of its friends. The last direct intelligence I had from the subject 
 was received in conversation with the president of the Assembly. 
 I met this gentleman on his subsequent arrival at Eio de Janeiro 
 to discharge his duties as a member of the House of Deputies. 
 He informed me that such were the political animosities existing 
 between the two parties into which the Assembly was divided that 
 very little business of any kind had been done during the session. 
 The minority as a party, and individuals of the majority, fovored 
 the project, but, under the circumstances, did not wish to urge im- 
 mediate action upon it. JVIeantime, through some slanders circu- 
 lated by an English Catholic priest residing at Eio, the suspicions 
 of the old bishop were excited lest the translation was not actually 
 what it purjDorted to be, but had suffered alterations. 
 
 "An examination was proposed, but, either through inability or 
 wilful neglect, was not attempted ; and thus the superstitious 
 humor of the old diocesan was counted among other things which 
 caused delay. The president expressed a hope that on the next 
 organization of the Assembly the proposal would be fully accepted. 
 
 "I subsequently saw in a newspaper that the committee to whom 
 the subject had been referred, or probably its chairman, in direct 
 contravention of his voluntary promise to me, but in obedience to 
 the old bishop's idle fears, had filed in the secretary's office a rejiort 
 unfavorable to the proposal. The proposition Avas probably never 
 acted upon. To the credit of the province, it certainly was never 
 formally rejected." 
 
 The dissemination of the truth, however, does not depend upon 
 legislative acts or the aid of statesmen, though we may hail with 
 pleasure everj'' move of the "powers that be" for the advancement 
 of knowledge and religion. The circulation of the Scriptures is 
 not a matter of sectarianism ; and all should rejoice in the diffusion 
 of that "which" (as the barbarian chieftain in Northumberland 
 said to his compeers Avhen the first monk visited Britannia) 
 " teaches us the origin and the destiny' of our souls." 
 
 I visited the province of S. Paulo more than sixteen years after 
 the events narrated above, and I found the same willingness mani- 
 
Fruits of Former Labors. 395 
 
 fested by all ranks of society in the reception of the word which 
 my companion in authorship experienced among the Paulistas, and 
 1 was thus enabled to diffuse very many copies of Holy Writ. From 
 time to time, in this pleasant portion of Brazil, I found much to 
 encourage my labors among the humble and ignorant as well as 
 among the more elevated and intelligent. It was not less pleasing 
 occasionally to trace the workings of the seeds of truth sown so 
 many yeai's before by Dr. Kidder. I found that an eminent Brazilian 
 had been won, by the perusal of A Santa Biblia, to " wisdom's ways," 
 and to become the earnest advocate of its circulation. Far in the 
 interior of this province I met with two gentlemen who did not 
 profess to be Christians, but who, as philanthropists, took a deep 
 interest in the Bible cause. One of them told me that a Brazilian 
 came to him a few days before with a Portuguese Bible, saying 
 that he was "so rejoiced to have the Bible in his own vernacular." 
 My informant thinks this Biblia must have come either from my pre- 
 decessor or from the Bibles left at the house of an American merchant 
 in Rio de Janeiro. I was also informed by an English Avatchmaker 
 at Campinas that he had met with a Brazilian who had in his pos- 
 session a Portuguese Bible, and that he took great pleasure in carry- 
 ing it with him to the Eoman Catholic church each Sunday. 
 
 In a most fertile and densely-populated portion of the province 
 I made the acquaintance of a physician who had resided in Brazil 
 eleven years, — had travelled, for scientific purposes, through much 
 of the Empire, — had won the respect and esteem of the Brazilians 
 by his affability as well as his professional ability. lie therefore 
 has a great influence. It is his opinion that Brazil, in a certain 
 sense, is I'eady for a reformation; but that the inhabitants have 
 had such immoral priests, and are themselves so low in a moral 
 point of view, that it would not be a vigorous breaking away from 
 the trammels of Eomanism. They are, however, not bigoted, and 
 are willing to read. He it was that gave me the instance of the 
 padre who, by reading some of the works of Luther that had 
 strayed from Germany into Brazil, preached such Protestant ser- 
 mons that he was attacked by the bishop, and finaUy driven away 
 from his parish, but not from his sentiments. It seemed to me, 
 when hearing of this incident, that the old German Eeformer was 
 still hurling his inkstand. 
 
CHAPTEE XXI. 
 
 AGREEABLE ACQUAINTANCE OLD CONGO'S SPUES LODGING AND SLEEPING COM- 
 PANY CAMPINAS ILLUMINATIONS — A NIGHT AMONG THE LOWLY ARRIVAL AT 
 
 LIMEIRA A PENNSTLVANIAN A NIGHT WITH A BOA CONSTRICTOR — EVENTFUL 
 
 AND ROMANTIC LIFE OF A NATURALIST — THE BIRD-COLONY DESTINED TO THE 
 
 PHILADELPHIA ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES YBECABA SKETCH OF THE 
 
 VERGUEIROS PLAN OF COLONIZATION BRIDGE OF NOVEL CONSTRUCTION 
 
 FUTURE PROSPECTS. 
 
 On the morning of the 21st of June, I left the city of San Paulo 
 for Limeira. Before starting, I called upon Messrs. E. and C, two 
 English engineers who had come out to make the surveys for a car- 
 riage-road into the interior. In the bookcase of Madam E. I 
 found many an old friend. How curious it was to see Cheever's 
 "Windings by the Waters of the Eiver of Life," Hamilton's "Life 
 in Earnest," and other good books, in this distant city, whose very 
 existence was perhaps unknown to the authors mentioned ! I was 
 loath to leave the agreeable company at Mr. E.'s; but my mules, horse, 
 and conductor were all ready, and now, with this cavalcade, vamos. 
 
 My conductor was an old darkey of sixty, whose vestments con- 
 sisted of a roundabout, a pair of pantaloons, and an old straw 
 hat. His naked, bony heels were ungarnished by the slightest 
 sign of a spur. As I was to ride fast, in order to accomplish my 
 journey in a given time, I saw that it would never do to have old 
 Congo go unarmed as to his pedal ex- 
 tremities ; so, reining up at a hard- 
 ware-store, I furnished the ancient with 
 a pair of iron spurs, each sj^ike of 
 which was large enough for the gaff of 
 a fighting-cock. With a bit of whip- 
 cord he fastened them to his skinny 
 ankles, and, mounting, we were soon 
 en route, and in a few minutes cleared the city of San Paulo. 
 
 At ten o'clock in this climate the sun is by no means cold. Tho 
 396 
 
Old Congo's Spurs. 397 
 
 extra animals, once outside of the streets, had a great disposition 
 to roam over the plains of Piratininga, and much of our time was 
 lost in changing from one side of the road to the other in search 
 of the fugitives. Under the influence of his unusual exercise and 
 the warmth of the day, the juice of youth seemed to he oozing out 
 of old Congo. He uttered prayers, at a most vociferous rate, to 
 Santa Maria and Diabo. And I am sorry to record that most of 
 his pious ejaculations were to the latter character, whose name, 
 though not in the calendar, is more frequently used in Brazil than 
 those of all the saints put together. Hearing the clatter of hoofs 
 behind us, I turned round, and beheld two Paulistas galloping in 
 the same direction with ourselves. In passing us, they both burst 
 into a fit of immoderate laughter. I could not at first divine what 
 so excited their caehinnatory powers, until one of them exclaimed, 
 " Olha as esporas." Upon looking down, I perceived that the whip- 
 cord which fastened the iron spikes to the heels of old Congo had 
 slipped around, and the spur was standing 
 out prominently in front of his instej). The 
 old fellow, in his ai'duous chase after the 
 wandering mules, had not i^erceived this, and 
 went on belaboring and thumping the sides 
 of his animal with his blunt, bony heels. 
 After the ride of a league, I found my 
 boxes; but Joachim Antonio da Silva, the muleteer who had them 
 in charge, would not give them up until I made many assurances 
 that all was right. And now once more forward ! 
 
 Previous to to-day, I had always had young negroes or German 
 boys for my conductors, and I feared that the ambition of old 
 Congo was dead, and that no hope of reward would resurrect it. 
 He went very slow: the journey must be accomplished with those 
 boxes in four days, or I could not come off" victor. The trip was 
 considered, by muleteers, one of eight days; so, in order to accele- 
 rate the speed of my animals, I determined not to leave old Congo. 
 We pushed on, as rapidly as possible, through a fine region of 
 countr}^, abounding in coffee and sugar plantations. I had much 
 conversation with the old negro, who could remember when, more 
 than half a century ago, he was stolen on the coast of Africa, but 
 did not recollect ever having heard the story of the Creation and 
 
398 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Eedcmption; so I employed myself in endeavoring to pour into his 
 mind some light on that greatest of all subjects to man. lie found 
 it very interesting, and pronounced it ^'muito bonito," (very beau- 
 tiful.) 
 
 "With all our pushing, driving, and changing animals, we only 
 got over twenty-four miles, — which is a good day's work for Bra- 
 zilians, but did not satisfy me. By, a bright moon we arrived at a 
 house where we could find no "entertainment for man or beast." 
 "We rode on to a mere road-side hovel, and to our question, Tern 
 lugar? we received the response, ""We cannot receive jovl: we have 
 no room." This was from a slatternly-looking mulattress. Every 
 thing was against us; but it was imijossible for us to go farther. 
 Old Congo, however, made a speech with such eloquence that the 
 desired quarters were obtained. And such a room ! No cabin in 
 Old Ireland, or clapboard shed in the "Far "West," could surpass it 
 in ugliness and narrowness, to say nothing of dirt. The floor was 
 mud, and the walls were of dried mud, ornamented with the marks 
 of the "daubing" fingers. It was six feet by eight, and here were 
 stowed self, saddles, sacks, and Congo. No wonder that they said ■ 
 they had "no room." "We supped off of beans, uncooked corn- 
 meal, and eggs, whose durable qualities were, not to be questioned. 
 AVe (that is, I first and Congo afterward) stood up (for there was 
 no chair in the house) to a table something like a horse-trough. I 
 am capable of any thing. My bed was a mat spread on a board 
 and graced by a pillow and a sheet. Such an article as a coverlet 
 did not exist in that casa. The African had more sense than I 
 had, for his poncho was large and heavy. By a dim light stuck 
 into the mud wall, I read to poor old Congo the first passage of the 
 Holy "Word that he, doubtless, had ever heard in a language which 
 he understood; then, praying in Portuguese, I lay down upon my 
 board, and he upon the ground, which I think must have been a 
 softer couch than mine. In a letter to a friend I thus detailed my 
 experience: — "I piled on to me, in lieu of coverlet, my saddle- 
 cloth and mackintosh. I was more sensitive to the cold than the 
 night before, and sleep would not be wooed. I then put on my 
 coat; but that did not keep off the cold nor the fleas, which were 
 'still so gently o'er me' creeping. I kicked away until I could 
 stand it no longer, and then (I scarcely dare write it to you) I 
 
How We Slept. 399 
 
 aroused old Congo from a sound sleep, and made him get into — no 
 — on to my board, to warm me. It was not exactly the ease of the 
 aged monarch of Israel; for it was cruel to transfer the ancient 
 darky from the comfortable bosom of mother-earth to the hard 
 realities of a soft board and a cold young man. I profited nothing 
 by it, for slumber came not to my eyelids, and the thought of cer- 
 tain bixos rendered me still more wakeful, if such a thing were 
 possible." 
 
 Before cock-crowing I ordered the mules to be saddled, and at 
 dajdight we were again on our way. I rode on, far in advance of 
 my muleteer, and, passing a mile beyond the village of Jundiahy, I 
 arrived at the hotel of Senhor Jose Pinto. I found a large party 
 at a twelve-o'clock breakfast, which repast was perfectly a la 
 Brazilienne. They supposed that I would wish matters in a different 
 style, but I made them all at ease by sitting down, telling them 
 that I was not a stranger, and manifesting my "at-homenoss" by 
 eating as heartily of their dishes as if I had been accustomed to 
 them all my life. This opened their hearts, and thus gave me, both 
 then and afterward, an opportunity of speaking of those higher 
 interests which concern man here below. 
 
 In two hours or more my baggage-mules came up. I perceived 
 that, at this rate, it would be impossible for me to get on as I 
 wished, or to complete all my arrangements at Limeira and 
 Ybecaba and get back to Eio de Janeiro for my northern trip. 
 Fortunately for me, I foimd at Jose Pinto's the two Paulistas whose 
 mirth had been so excited at the revolution of the old African's 
 spurs. They were going far into the interior, and had an extra 
 animal, Avhich I hired, and pushed on, accompanied by them, leav- 
 ing my old Congo to come up sem duvida (without fail) two days 
 after me. 
 
 I had now a better opportunity of knowing something more of 
 the moradores, or road-side dwellers, of which class my companions 
 were specimens. They sang for me fandango melodies, Ethiopian 
 airs in bad Portuguese, and entertained me in various ways. In 
 return, I gave them some information about the world outside of 
 Brazil, not leaving out, in the end, a mention of the "Hapjiy 
 Land." 
 
 Our resting-place was to be the important town of Campinas, 
 
400 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 (or San Carlos,) more than one hundred miles in the interior. As 
 we approached this town, I was struck by the beauty and fertility 
 of the surrounding country. The grand old mountains had been 
 left far behind us, and around, as far as I could see, were extensive 
 plains, or rather rolling prairies, and almost every acre occupied. 
 There were most highly-cultivated coffee-plantations, from whose 
 deep green could be seen, peeping here and there, the large white resi- 
 dences of the plantei'S. It was on the evening of the 28th of June 
 that we drew near Campinas. The clear beauty of the tropic night 
 was made even more beautiful by the illumination of the city, 
 by the huge bonfii'es spread over the plains, and by the most bril- 
 liant fireworks sent up from every street and from all the sur- 
 rounding plantations. The sight and sounds were such that one, 
 without any stretch of imagination, would have believed himself 
 near some besieged city during a fierce bombardment. It was 
 "St. Peter's Eve;" and every man who had a Pedro attached to his 
 name felt himself obligated to burn a huge heap of combustibles 
 before his door, and to send up any quantity of sky-rockets and 
 fire off innumerable pistols, muskets, and cannon. Under such a 
 storm we entered Campinas. My two Paulistas led me through 
 the narrow streets, and we finally arrived before a row of small 
 whitewashed houses. These were the residences of the friends of 
 my Paulistas; but I could not think of stopping there, and desired 
 that some one would lead the way to an inn. They were all very 
 kind, but were so occupied with our tired animals that no one 
 could be spared for the purpose. The hotel, if one can call it such, 
 was at a great distance, and it was suggested that I had better 
 stop with them, though it was muito mal, (very bad fare.) I thought 
 that it could not be harder than the night before. I entered : this 
 was the residence of Senhor Theobardo o Carpinteiro ; or, in plain 
 English, Theobald the carpenter. Senhor Theobardo, however, had 
 not expended any of his skill upon his own house, for the floors 
 and the walls were composed of the same substance as the street. 
 The night before I had only been in the outer court. I now had 
 an opportunity of seeing the inner temple. Senhor Theobardo was 
 half Indian, half mulatto, and I think that, if he could have had 
 an extra half, it would have been yellow Portuguese. He and his 
 children had formed such a close alliance with the substance of 
 
Sr. Theobarda the Carpenter. 401 
 
 which hia floors were made, that one could literally say that all 
 (judging from their complexion) were of the "dust of the earth." 
 The kitchen, which served the pui'pose of parlor and dining-room, 
 was without chimney, chairs, or any of the appliances of civilized 
 life. A few earthen pots were the culinary utensils, and a fire in 
 one corner of the room, in the style of the Patagonians, (indeed, 1 
 have seen the same kind among the Terra del Fuegians,) served for 
 cooking, the smoke the meanAvhile escaping as best it could. 
 When I saw Mr. Theobardo, Mrs. T., and all the little T.s squatting 
 around the fire, and the mellow light of the embers not softening 
 their sallow features, which, excepting their flashing eyes, were un- 
 relieved by a single trace of cleanliness or grace, I thought that 
 Borrow, in his wildest adventures among the gypsies of Spain, 
 could not have witnessed a group more wild, more dirty, or more 
 picturesque. But I soon found that, although thej^ had dirty 
 faces, they had large hearts, and I reflected that my mission was 
 to them as Avell as to the more elevated; so I made myself at 
 home, and also put them at their ease. We talked about the United 
 States, and finally I got out a Portuguese New Testament, and, 
 collecting whites, and those who had all sorts of mixtures, from 
 the white, through the red, down to the negro, I commenced read- 
 ing the Holy Book. I had a most interested audience, who proba- 
 bly for the first time heard the message of salvation. I shall 
 never forget that night, and the kindness of the most lowly people 
 I ever met Avith, — lowly, at least, as to this world's goods; and 
 it is my earnest hope and prayer that the truth may reach and 
 enrich their souls. 
 
 The room which they assigned to me was not quite so large as 
 the one I had occupied the night before, and was shared between 
 boards, planes, chisels, saws, harness, saddles, a Paulista, and my- 
 self Just as I was retiring, a huge wooden bowl, as large as a 
 bath-tub, was brought to me filled with water. This was of their 
 own accord : but who would have thought it, among these people 
 who apparently never performed any ablutions ? 
 
 That night slumber was sweet indeed; and the next morning I 
 
 departed at an early hour, leaving my blessing and one milreis with 
 
 the kind Theobardo. The former he accepted, but the latter he 
 
 declined, until I forced it upon him as a lenibrani^a. 
 
 26 
 
402 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Our route was still more picturesque than that of yesterday 
 The fine road was overshadowed by trees and wild vines; and the 
 carolling birds and singing Paulistas made the ten leagues appear 
 short. Our party was enlarged by two young Germans on their 
 way to Ybecaba. All the houses by the road-sides, and even the 
 huge churches, are built of (or, rather, rammed down with) mud 
 or clay. The large conventual buildings of S. Paulo and the im- 
 mense church of Campinas (whose walls are five feet in diameter) 
 are composed of beaten earth. 
 
 The whole feature of the country had changed: the sublime 
 scenery of the coast was not here to be found, but, in its stead, that 
 which reminded me of the United States. In the newness of the 
 settlements and plantations, I could have easily believed myself in 
 the northern part of Ohio. We were now constantly fording and 
 passing over streams, which were the head-waters of the River 
 Plate. We pushed on until night, illumined by a full moon in an 
 unclouded sky, brought us to the town of Limeira. Here I had 
 
 before been informed I should find an American physician, Dr. , 
 
 formerly of Pennsylvania. I rode up to his house, and had a most 
 welcome reception. I desired to journey on by moonlight to the 
 plantation of Senator Vergueiro; but the doctor would take no re- 
 fusal, and stated as a further inducement that another American 
 had arrived that very day, and that we together would compose 
 such a trio as had never before been seen in the distant villa of 
 Limeira. 
 
 Limeira is situated in a most fertile region, watered by streams 
 
 that send their tribute to the mighty Parana. If Dr. was 
 
 surprised at my unexpected arrival, I was no less astonished to 
 learn that another American had arrived that day, who was peram- 
 bulating the province, practising his profession of dentist. In 
 what nation pretending to civilization will you not find the Ame- 
 rican dentist? I may be permitted to indulge a little patriotic 
 pride when speaking of this profession, whose members more than 
 any other of my compatriots may be found in almost any portion 
 of the world. Their superior merits have been repeatedly acknow- 
 ledged by Englishmen and Frenchmen of the same profession. The 
 secret of their perfection and success has been owing to various 
 causes, not the least of which is the regular dental colleges which 
 
American Dentists in Foreign Lands. 403 
 
 exist in the United States, being the first institutions of the kind 
 ever founded, and until recently the only ones in the world. I have 
 met with American dentists at Eio de Janeiro, Valparaiso, and in 
 New Granada. At Paris the dentists a la mode are Americans.* A 
 sickly schoolmate, with whom in years gone by I had dug out 
 many a page of hard Latin, is now the most popular dentist in 
 Berlin. On the continent, in interior cities, you will meet with 
 Yankee teeth-replacers and teeth-extractors; and, if the professor 
 or doctor has not the advantage of being a citizen of the great 
 Eepublic, he publishes in emphatic characters in his advertisements 
 that he has studied his profession in the United States, or fills molars 
 d la mode Americaine. 
 
 But to return to Dr. . He gave me a hearty Pennsylvania 
 
 welcome, and, as it was late, soon conducted me to my chamber. 
 Now, this chamber was adjacent to a medicine-room, where were 
 not only plenty of the bottled doses which flesh in Brazil is fre- 
 quently "heir to," but also the apartment was adorned with many 
 specimens of the rich floral and animal kingdoms of Brazil. There 
 being no door to close the aperture that existed between this room 
 and mine, I was frequently disturbed during the night by a strange 
 noise, which could not proceed from unemployed physic or from the 
 dx'ied and stuffed specimens which were hung around in profusion. 
 When daylight returned, I ascertained that the singular noise had 
 arisen from the rustling of a very fine boa-constrictor, that had slept 
 (or rather attempted to sleep) within about eight feet of my bed. 
 
 * Amekican Dentists. — Mr. Walsh, the Paris correspondent of the Journal of 
 Commerce, in a late letter, says : — 
 
 " A few days ago I had occasion to apply to the principal Paris bookseller in the 
 department of medicine for some recent comprehensive and elegant work on Den- 
 tistry, lie wrote to me at once the following reply : — ' I regret that it is not in my 
 power to meet your wishes : there is nothing recent nor good in France on the art 
 and science of dentistry. Our surgeons are obliged to borrow from the Americans 
 their proficiency and treatises on this subject, acknowledging that your country- 
 men are much further advanced than they themselves are in this important branch 
 of the medical art. It is unnecessary for me to mention to you works published 
 fifteen years ago.' Your dentists may be gratified by this testimony. The success 
 of the Americans of the profession who have settled in this capital is strong evi- 
 dence of the justness of appreciation." 
 
404 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 This room-mate of mine had been jjresented to the dcctor, and was 
 one of the chief occupants of the medical apartment. 
 
 The doctor's life had been of that romantic kind which from 
 time to time we find coupled with devoted study and hard reality. 
 A great lover of nature, he early turned his attention to botany and 
 geology. lie roamed over the whole United States, and finally 
 came with a few others to Brazil, many years ago, to explore the 
 flora and mineralogy of this Empire. Being an enthusiastic natu- 
 ralist, he fairly revelled in the glorious field of his favorite studies; 
 but the sickness of one of the expedition brought him back to Rio 
 de Janeiro, where he was induced by the Amei-ican minister to fill 
 the place of mineralogist on board of an American frigate which 
 was on its way to examine the coal-fields of Borneo. I shall not 
 soon forget the interesting account which he gave- me of this ex- 
 pedition, during which he visited Madagascar, the coasts of Zanzi- 
 bar, China, Tonquin, Manilla, &c. &c. His reports adorn the 
 publications of the Smithsonian Institute. After he had filled hia 
 accepted time of service on board the frigate, he returned to Brazil, 
 penetrated the forest, and resumed, on his own account, further 
 explorations; but, in order to obtain the necessary means, he first 
 practised his profession as a physician. 
 
 From other lips I learned the sequel of the doctor's adventures 
 in a field .widely different from that of botany. He opened his 
 office on the plaza of an important town in the interior of San 
 Paulo. On the opposite side of the square was a young Brazilian 
 widow, endowed with the double attraction of wealth and beauty. 
 It was not long before the doctor was approached by empenhos,"^ 
 and became duly informed that the bereaved Brazilienne thought 
 that she could find in him a solace for all her afflictions. The doctor 
 replied that he was already married to the virgin forests, and, not 
 contemplating another marriage, ran away to his beautiful woods. 
 
 * Einpenho : this word is used in Brazil to express the idea, in politics, commerce, 
 &c. &c., of soliciting aid, promotion, and favors not by direct approaches. Thus, 
 A Tvishes a favor from D : A ascertains that B is very well acquainted with C, who 
 is a most influential friend of D, and to whom D is under obligations. B goes to C 
 and C in turn to D, and thus the favor is obtained through intermediates. The 
 verb cmpenhar means to lay, to pawn, to pledge, to persuade. Dinheiro, Diabo, 
 and Empenho are most frequently used in Brazil. 
 
EoM^NCE OF A Botanist. 405 
 
 On his return, however, a more powerful empenho was brought to 
 bear upon him. The doctor yielded, — was led to the church, and 
 the fair Paulista married him. Their ixnion was blessed by a fine, 
 chubby boy, whom the patriotic physician named George Washing- 
 ton, fondly hoping that this was the first child born in Brazil who 
 bore the illustrious name. "But," said he, "fancy my disgust 
 when, the other day, I learned that some yellow Sertanejo had 
 anticipated me, and had his clay-bank urchin baptized also George 
 Washington !" 
 
 At the earnest request of influential persons, he took up his 
 residence at Limeira; but his plans for botanical researches, foiled 
 for a time, have not been given up, and it is his intention at some 
 future day to explore the dense sylva of the interior, where nature 
 so luxuriantly abounds in the gigantic, the wonderful, and the 
 beautiful. 
 
 On the following morning after my arrival at Limeira, accom- 
 panied by Dr. , I went to the Fazenda de Ybecaba, the planta- 
 tion of the Vergueiros. It was a clear and lovely day, and we 
 rode along under an archway of forest-trees, manj- of them clad 
 with the most curious epiphytes and orchidaceous plants. From 
 time to time the doctor would point out some very remarkable 
 subjects of this portion of Flora's kingdom, and delineate their 
 peculiarities and qualities as only one can whose heart is bound 
 up in the beauties of nature. We halted in an open space, and my 
 companion indicated with his finger one of the common palms of 
 this region. In the tree itself there was nothing to render it 
 worthy of attention above its fellows to those accustomed to its 
 graceful form; but there was an accidental interest given to it 
 which called forth the doctor's enthusiastic admiration. He was 
 not only a thoroughly-educated botanist and mineralogist, but was 
 an amateur ornithologist, and loved to watch every trait of the 
 gaudy and brilliant birds of Brazil. From the tufted crown of the 
 palm there hung twenty nests of the large oriole called the Iguash; 
 and the feathery inhabitants of this swinging town were hovering 
 around and chattering like "children just let loose from school." 
 The doctor informed me that, though so many leagues intervened 
 between Limeira and the sea-coast, he would cause the tree to 
 be carefully cut down, sawed into sections, and trunk, top, and 
 
406 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 nest transported to Santos, and there shipped for Philadelphia. Its 
 destiny, after it arrived at the City of Brotherly Love, was to be the 
 Academy of Natural Sciences. The nests would also be sent, Avith 
 several specimens of the Iguash. This whole project, however, 
 was to be coupled with one condition, which was a sine qua non; i.e. 
 the Directors of the said Academy of Natural Sciences were to re- 
 erect the palm-tree, with its long nest-adornments, in the centre or 
 in some conspicuous part of their edifice; for, unless this was 
 guaranteed, the doctor added, " palm-tree, birds, and all would soon 
 be consigned to oblivion." It was a grand idea — and I doubt if it 
 were ever befox^e entertained by a naturalist — to transport a lofty 
 nest-covered tree on the shoulders of men for more than two hun- 
 dred miles, in order that it might be sent thousands of leagues 
 over the ocean as a specimen of the wonders of vegetation and of 
 the bird-architecture of this Southern Hemisphere. 
 
 We resumed our route, and 
 in a few minutes we over- 
 took old Congo, w^ho, true to 
 his word, had driven and 
 ridden well, and had got over 
 more ground in forty-eight 
 hours than he had on any 
 previous occasion in five days. 
 We emerged from the forest- 
 bordered road, and saw in the 
 distance the celebrated plan- 
 tation of Senator Yergueiro. . 
 
 Though I had heard more of this establishment than of any 
 similar one in Brazil, it did not fall behind my anticipation. 
 We passed through the great gateway, and were welcomed by the 
 screams of a flock of gay ly -pain ted parrots, which were at times 
 alighting, and at times w^hii-ling around the tops of a group of lofty 
 trees. Two pairs of them rested upon different branches, and 
 seemed to be in amiable confab in regard to the newly-arrived. 
 Between Campinas and Limeira, and also at Ybecaba, I beheld the 
 loftiest trees that I met with in any portion of the country. Three 
 noble denizens of the forest have been left not far from the resi- 
 dence of Senhor Vorgueiro, and form a conspicuous object iu the 
 
The Fazexda of Ybecaba. 407 
 
 landscape. In the distance could be seen the manor and the chapel, 
 and on either side of them various out-buildings, which served as 
 shops, store-rooms for coffee, and sheds for machiner3^ On our 
 left were neat little cottages belonging to the colonists. The pecu- 
 liarity of Ybecaba consists in the fact that free labor is employed 
 in carrying on its vast operations; and those whom Senator Yer- 
 gueiro and his sons have brought to displace the Africans are men 
 of the working-classes from Germany and Switzerland. With en- 
 larged views and true economy, we shall see in the sequel that 
 the}^ have adopted that plan which has not only been productive 
 of great and profitable results to themselves, but that they have 
 helped to elevate and greatly benefit the condition of those who 
 were in narrow circumstances at home. The Yergueiros have 
 solved the question, so often asked, " AVhat is the true mode for 
 colonization in Brazil?" 
 
 As we drew near the mansion we saw on every side of us evi- 
 dences of thrift. For the first time away from Eio de Janeiro I 
 saw carts whose wheels were not of the old primitive Eoman kind, 
 but turned upon their axles like civilized cartwheels. And it may 
 be mentioned that these, and all the agricultural implements and 
 machinery, are manufactured on the plantation. When subse- 
 quently examining the workmanship of carpenters, cabinet-makers, 
 blacksmiths, and Avheelwrights, fi-om the Cantons de Yaud and 
 Yalais, and from interior villages of Prussia, I perceived that not 
 only had they not lost their skilfulness, but had actually gained 
 under the supervision of their enlightened proprietors. 
 
 Senhor Luiz Yergueiro received us with marked attention. 
 The doctor was, of course, an old favorite; but Senhor Y. soon 
 made me feel at home, and I afterward discovered that he took a 
 deep interest in my visit to Brazil, from the account which he had 
 read in the Correio Mercanfil of my presentation, at Rio de Janeiro, 
 of the various specimens of American arts and manufactures to 
 the Emperor' and to the different scientific societies of the 
 metropolis. 
 
 Every facility was given me for full investigation of the books of 
 the plantation and the condition of the colony, which enabled me 
 to make a just and fair comparison between this sj'stem of coloni- 
 zation and those of Petropolis and Donna Francisca, and also to see 
 
408 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 more clearly the results of contrasted free and slave labor. The 
 whole of the da^^ was thus occupied; but, before detailing any ac- 
 count of that examination, it will be best to give a more full 
 account of the family Vergueiro, whose venerable head has been 
 mentioned scvei'al times in previous pages of this work. 
 
 Nicoldo de Pereira de Campos Vergueiro is a native of Portugal, 
 and of noble descent. He arrived in Brazil before the King, Dom 
 John VI. By profession a lawyer, he is a man of cultivated and 
 disciplined mind. He early settled in the province of San Paulo, 
 and took a conspicuous part in the political affairs of the country. 
 From the very commencement of agitations for extending the 
 rights of his adopted land, he stood in the foremost rank of patriots, 
 shoulder to shoulder with the Andradas, Feijo, and others eminent 
 in the struggle for Brazilian independence. His private virtues, his 
 modei'ate and enlightened views, and his great firmness, made him 
 an object of confidence on the part of the people. He was deputed 
 to the Cortes of Portugal, having for his colleagues Jose Bonifacio 
 de Andrada, and Feijo. He did not, however, escape to England 
 with them when they were threatened by the Cortes, but demanded, 
 fearlessly and firmly, his passport, and succeeded in obtaining it. 
 He returned to Rio de Janeiro, and from that time to this has been 
 a leader on the liberal side of politics, and is to-day called a 
 Sa?ita Lusia. From the era of Brazilian liberty until now, he has 
 either been Deputy or Senator. On that trying night when the 
 people in the Campo Santa Anna clamored for the reinstatement 
 of the Ministr}'^ dismissed the previous day, Dom Pedro I., before 
 resorting to the last expedient left to him by the Constitution, sent 
 for Vergueiro, knowing that he was one who possessed the confi- 
 dence of the populace, to desire him to form a ministry in accord- 
 ance with their wishes. Vergueiro was not found, or the revolution 
 would have either been sta^-ed or put off to a more distant period. 
 He has been repeatedly Minister of the Empire, has received 
 emii.eat places from the people, but has steadfastly refused all title 
 of nobility, and every honor from the Imperial Executive, except 
 the Grand Cross of Santa Cruz. 
 
 Before leaving for Southern Brazil, I called upon Senator Ver- 
 gueiro at Rio de Janeiro. He was at that time present in the 
 capital during the session of the Assemblea Geral, and resided in 
 
Senator Vergueiro and Family. 409 
 
 the beautiful suburb of Botafogo. It was in the evening that I 
 entered his residence, and was received by his daughters, whom I 
 found intelligent and possessing one accomplishment so often 
 lacking in a Brazilian lady : they could converse. Not many 
 moments elapsed before the venerable Senator entered. His hair 
 was white, and his form was bowed under the weight of fourscore 
 years; yet in the glance of his eye there was something which told 
 that the soul was neither slumbering nor decrepid. His smiling 
 countenance also proclaimed that neither the burdens of age nor 
 of past and pi'csent public and private service had affected in the 
 least degree the cheerfulness of his nature. Whether conversing 
 about the copies of the sacred truth, or of my contemplated visit 
 to Ybecaba, — whether addressing a playful remark to his family, or 
 a word of information to me, — he was a most pleasant picture of a 
 hale and happy old man, wnth his mental powers unimpaired, and 
 with the hopefulness of youth. The aged statesman stands almost 
 alone in the Brazilian Senate-Chamber; for the patriotic yet 
 impetuous Andradas are gone; the eloquent, the irresistible, but 
 unsafe Vasconcellos has long since been laid in the tomb; the old 
 Marquis of Valenga has recently been followed to his "long home;" 
 a new generation of Brazilians fill their places: nevertheless, 
 Nicolao de Pereira de Campos Vergueiro still represents an 
 admiring constituency, no longer, as in stormier times, battling for 
 right, but as the advocate of every measure for the advancement 
 of his beloved country. 
 
 Few men in Brazil have been blessed with such sons; few, we 
 may add, have taken such pains to have their children properly 
 educated. Co-operating with their father, they have presented in 
 their colony a model to their compatriots. His four sons were 
 educated in Brazil, Germany, and England. The oldest, Senhor 
 Luiz, studied law at the University of Gottingen. Senhor Jose (head 
 of the Santos house) was trained in the military school of Prussia, 
 and rose to the position of first lieutenant of the thirty-seventh 
 Prussian jnfantry during the troubles between Belgium and 
 Holland. 
 
 The third son (who had charge of the Eio house of Yergueiro & 
 Filhos) was educated as a commercial man in London and Ham- 
 burg, and the yo anger brother had a thorough mercantile training 
 
410 Brazil asb the Brazilians. 
 
 in the same ^;ities. By their European education they have been 
 enabled to carry out more easily the plans of their father concern- 
 ing emigration. 
 
 In 1841, Senhor Yergueiro, in the teeth of public oj)inion, sent 
 to Germany for forty families as colonists; but the General Govern- 
 ment was so opposed to the old Senator during the troubles of 1842, 
 in the province of San Paulo, that the colony was broken up. In 
 1846, he again commenced carrying out his project; and, in so 
 doing, he has been completely successful. The Government itself 
 through official organs, has commended the system of Vergueiro 
 as the system worthy of imitation. 
 
 That sj'stem may be stated in few words. Sr. Vergueiro has in 
 Europe an agent who communicates with cantonal and communal 
 authorities, and with private individuals, offering inducements to 
 the able-bodied poor who wish to emigrate with their fomilies to 
 the New World. The emigrant, at his option, can defray his own 
 expenses to Brazil, or, permitting Sr. Yergueiro to transport him, 
 he (the emigrant) agrees in such case to refund at his own time 
 and convenience the price of his jjassage at a small rate of interest. 
 The agent at Hamburg charters a vessel, and thus a large number 
 of colonists are enabled to seek a new home at a very moderate 
 outlay. 
 
 Sr. Y. guarantees on his part to defray all the expenses of the 
 colonists from the sea-coast to his plantations, and, on their arrival 
 at their final destination, to furnish each head of a family with a 
 house, so many thousand coffee-trees, propoi'tioned to the number 
 of each family, and to supply all with provisions, articles of 
 clothing, &c. at wholesale prices. The colonist, on his jjart, agrees 
 to tend faithfully his allotted portion of coffee-trees, to share the 
 profits and expenses of the crop, and not to leave without giving 
 one year's notice and paying his indebtedness (if any exist) for 
 passage-money advanced. 
 
 This contract is very simple, and is a safe investment for both 
 contracting parties. 
 
 During the j^ear 1854, the result of the coffee-culture on the 
 plantation of Ybecaba was one million six hundred thousand pounds, 
 of which one-half of the expenses and profits belong to the 
 laborers. 
 
A NftvEL Bridge. 
 
 411 
 
 I visited the cottages of the colonists, about one mile from the 
 manor. As I passed along, I was constantly saluted by cheerful 
 Swiss and German workmen, some of whom were surrounded by 
 noisy and joyous fiiir-headed children, who capered about with as 
 much life and glee as if at the foot of the Hartz or in the valleys 
 of the Oberland. 
 
 Before reaching the hamlet, (of which I present a sketch drawn 
 by a young German at Ybecaba,) I crossed a small stream upon a 
 
 COLONIA VERQUEI RO. 
 
 bridge of a novel and cheap construction, which in its simplicity 
 commends itself to every settler in Australia or Western America, 
 where proprietors are many but laborers are few. It may be 
 styled a "self-made" bridge. A number of logs are fastened longi- 
 tudinally in the water, leaving, of course, spaces between them. 
 On the top of these are thrown large branches, and then finer 
 brush; and on the surface is placed a certain quantity of clay and 
 
412 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 loose earth. A portion of the brook higher up is turned aside by a 
 ditch through the light soil, and conducted over the log and brush- 
 heap. In a few days this little side-stream has borne down an 
 immense burden of red soil across the bridge, and has rendered 
 the superstructure as firm as the road, while beneath, through 
 branches and logs, the "river runs merrily by." The ditch, the 
 water through it having finished its work, is closed, and a solid 
 passage-way is thus obtained.* 
 
 At the hamlet I found an intelligent head-agent, who kept the 
 books of the colonists, and gave to the latter oi'ders for every pound 
 of bacon, yard of cloth, &c. Without his signature they could not 
 obtain these articles at the manor storehouse. 
 
 The larger portion of the colonists were Roman Catholics; but 
 I did not leave before every opportunity was afforded for their 
 obtaining the Scriptures, both in Portuguese and German. 
 
 Some of the colonists have thriven remarkably, having in five 
 years' time gained five and seven thousand milreis, ($2500 and 
 $3500.) The state of morals was certainly most creditable when 
 comparing it with that of the countries whence they came. From 
 1847 to '55, (the period of ray visit,) among several hundred 
 laborers of the humblest classes of German and Swiss, not an 
 illegitimate child had been born. The Vergueiros encourage the 
 marriage-institution as not only essential to purity, but for the 
 interest of both planter and colonist. There are now about one 
 thousand European workmen, including children. 
 
 Ybecaba is a small plantation, containing but five or six square 
 miles; but near by the V.s possess afaze?ida not so well cultivated, 
 but thi-ee times as large. At Angelica they own a new plantation, 
 well adapted to the culture of coffee, which is twelve leagues in 
 circumference. Hitherto blacks have been employed upon this 
 large estate; but it is the intention of the proprietor to introduce, 
 
 * In some of tbe mining-districts there is a simple and philosophical mode of 
 splitting off the side of clayey mountains. Wells are dug into them, and, during 
 the heavy rains, these, by means of gutters, become filled with water. The hydro- 
 static pressure of the liquid columns forces off masses from the facts of mountains 
 which would require hundreds of men for months to accomplish with the mattock 
 and shovel. 
 
Condition of the Brazilian Colonies. 413 
 
 as soon as possible, free white laborers. I deraanded of Sr. Luiz 
 Vergueiro if it were mere philanthropy which prompted their 
 efforts to introduce free labor: he replied, most promptly and de- 
 cidedlj', " We find the labor of a man who has a will of his own, 
 and interests at stake, vastly more profitable than slave-labor." 
 
 I could not but contrast the happy and cheerful condition of 
 these colonists with the discouraged residents in the colony Donna 
 Francisca. Though the Germans of Petropolis have every advantage 
 of a nearness to market, and a growing city which has many wants 
 to be supplied, yet the condition of the colonists at Ybecaba is 
 infinitely superior if we consider the prosperity of the individual. 
 The settlement at Leopoldina in Eio Grande do Sul has been the 
 only truly successful Imperial colony, that of Petropolis being under 
 the Governo Provincial. By the report of the Minister of the Em- 
 pire for 1854-55, I ascei-tain that, out of seventeen colonies founded 
 by the Imperial Government and by the provincial authorities, 
 only four can be called prosperous; and of but two can it be said, 
 " muito.prospera." The remainder are placed under the heads "not 
 prosperous," "confounded with the population," "in decay," or 
 "no information of its condition." Of the twenty-four private 
 efforts at colonization, twenty-one are reported prosperous, nearly 
 all of which have been founded since 1852, and more or less on the 
 Vergueii'o system. These colonies are in five provinces, and the 
 excellence of the "plan-Vergueiro" consists in this, — viz.: its ap- 
 plicability throughout the Empire on a great or small scale. Nine 
 of the twenty-one senhors have each less than one hundred and 
 twenty colonists, thus enabling the small proprietors to have, to a 
 certain extent, the advantages of the larger landholders. Slavery 
 (since the vigorous measures of 1850 were adopted against the 
 slave-trade) has been doomed in Brazil. The Emperor and his 
 Government are against this inhuman traffic, and the popular voice 
 sustains them. The comparative ease with which a slave may 
 obtain his freedom, and, by the possession of property, the rights 
 of citizenship, will probably in twenty years put an end to servi- 
 tude in this South American Empire. There must then be a supply 
 of laborers from some other source than Africa. The mother- 
 country, the Portuguese islands, Germany, and Switzerland will 
 furnish that supply. Individual emigration as it exists from Europe 
 
414 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 to the tTnited States can never succeed in Brazil on a large scale, 
 owing to the peculiar structure of the Government; but the system 
 inaugurated by Sr. Vcrgueiro & Sons is capable of indefinite exten- 
 sion, while it protects the interests of both employer and em- 
 ployee. Though there may be individual instances of oppression 
 under a powerful and unjust proprietor, yet, as a whole, this plan 
 will in the end prove a great blessing to Brazil and to the poorer 
 classes of Europe. Already the Swabian, the Fribourgeois, the 
 Yaudois, the Valaisan, the Portuguese, and the Ilheo, look up like 
 men in their new homes: they have no longer that ajipearance — 
 too common in their native districts — of the crushed and cringing 
 peasant who has no thought beyond the pinching want of to-day. 
 As we look upon their joyous ftices, we can readily believe what 
 Sr. Jose Vergueiro said to me at Santos: — "They breathe here the 
 air of freedom, sir, — such as they never snuflPed in their native 
 land." 
 
 Under such a system, they have not the pressing cares of the 
 pioneer; they are not the victims of speculating land-companies, 
 and, at the same time, though enjoying comparative ease, their 
 own interest keeps them from indolence. At a year's notice, when 
 they have learned, under the tuition and protection of a powerful 
 Brazilian, the cultivation of tropical productions, they can leave 
 and " set up" for themselves if they choose. They can easily 
 become naturalized; their children grow up as citizens attached 
 to the soil; and, if nothing untoward occurs, Brazil, in half a 
 century, will have a host of small proprietors infusing a new life- 
 blood into the body politic. Under her mild Government there 
 will spring up a more hardy peojile, who will be the subduers of 
 the virgin forests and the pioneers in the vast, fertile, healthy, 
 but almost unexplored regions of Parana, Goyaz, Mato Grosso, and 
 Minas-Geraes, where the head-waters of the Amazon and the La 
 Plata are interlaced ot separated by a narrow dividing-ridge. 
 
 To the speedy and sure accomj)lishment of this desired consum- 
 mation, Brazil should still more modify her laws, so that there may 
 be every facility for the introduction of colonists. Already the 
 Empire has done away with some of the most objectionable fea- 
 tures; but much remains to be done. Every obstacle should be 
 removed, and the Government, by a general act, should proclaim 
 
Hopes for the Future. 415 
 
 its policy as liberal in all the initiatoiy steps for the newlj arrived 
 as it is generous in regard to the holding of property by foreigners. 
 Such measures would promote immigration, and in time a new 
 population would grow up in this beautiful country, worth}- of its 
 vast resources. Let a pure gospel be in the hearts of such a 
 people, and Brazil, in the futui-e, will be a land in every respect 
 unsurpassed on the face ol the earth. 
 
 Sr. Yergueiro and his sons are making constant improvements in 
 modes of cultivation, and are studying the best manner of applying 
 Northern labor and skill to tropical agriculture. I before men- 
 tioned the workshops of the mechanics, where agricultural imple- 
 ments in wood and iron are turned out in a style equal to any 
 thing of the kind made in Europe or North America. Among the 
 various machines for facilitating the preparation of coffee for 
 market was one — the invention of Senator Vergueiro — which 
 cleans no less than thirty-two thousand pounds of coffee jjer 
 diem. 
 
 We had been kindly invited to dine at the mansion-house, and it 
 is unnecessary that I should particularize the component parts of 
 a most sumptuous dinner. Suffice it to say that the ''fat of the 
 land" was there in profusion, and that the "feast of reason," &c. 
 
 was well supplied by Sr. Luiz V., Dr. , and the intelligent 
 
 padre, who conversed fluently in both French and German. 
 
 The doctor and myself left Ybecaba at a late hour, and, after a 
 pleasant ride by moonlight, reached Limeira. 
 
 Note for 1SG6. — Senator Vergueiro died in 1860. On account of financial and 
 other difiSculties, it is said that Ybecaba, though still kept up, is not in so 
 flourishing a condition as formerly. The conclusion of the long intestine struggle 
 in the United States has caused many Southern planters to look to Brazil. The 
 Imperial Government, as has been mentioned, is determined to receive them on 
 most liberal terms; and "colonization," which it must be confessed has not ful- 
 filled the expectation of its friends, will give place to "immigration," which has 
 done so much for the United States, and, if the Government of Brazil will only be 
 liberal and will fulfil its promises, viz., to sell land at a fair rate and cut the red 
 tape of public offices and petty fiscaes and subdelegados, (interior supervisors and 
 justices of the peace,) a population will be introduced which will add a thousand- 
 fold to the well-being and honor of the Empire. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 A NEW DISEASE THE CULTURE OF CHINESE TEA IN BRAZIL MODUS OPEBAXDI 
 
 THE DECEIVED CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS PROBABLE EXTENSION OF TEA-CULTUHB 
 
 IN SOUTH AMERICA HOMEWARD BOUND MY COMPANION SENHOR JOs£ AND A 
 
 LITTLE DIFFICULTY WITH HIM CALIFORNIA AND THE MUSICAL INNKEEPER 
 
 EARLY START AND THE STAR-SPANGLED BANNER THE SENHORES BROTERO OF 
 
 S. PAULO FOURTH OF JULY INAUGURATED IN AN ENGLISH FAMILY "YANKEE 
 
 doodle" on THE PLAINS OF YPIRANGA LAME AND IMPOTENT CONCLUSION 
 
 ASTRONOMY UNDER DIFFICULTIES DELIVERANCE RETURN TO RIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 The next day after my visit to Ybecaba, I was employed in 
 
 obtaining such information from Dr. as one would be sure to 
 
 find in a man of intelligence and observation who had long resided 
 in the country. I made many inquiries in regard to the various 
 diseases of Brazil, and the remarks of this experienced physician 
 confirmed my own oft-repeated ojjinion that few portions of the 
 world could boast of so great a salubrity as this Empire. 
 
 Probably no tropical country has been so exempt from a general 
 disease as Brazil. It has only been within the last five years that 
 the yellow fever invaded these healthy realms, and not until 1855 
 has that dreadful scourge, the cholera, touched these shores. The 
 ravages of these two devouring pestilences — both of which were 
 confined to a narrow belt of the sea-coast — have been greatly over- 
 estimated. During the prevalence of the cholera in the vicinity 
 of Bahia, I was in that city of one hundred and twenty thousand 
 inhabitants. I have seen it gravely stated in American and Eng- 
 lish journals that so great was the mortality and the panic there 
 that there were not enough people left to bury the dead ! JSTow, 
 if the perpetrators of this horrible fiction had given the truth, 
 they would have described a great deal of sickness among the 
 blacks and much panic among the whites; that, oiit of a provincial 
 
 population of nearly a million, 9,490 died from all diseases in the 
 416 
 
A l^EW Disease. 417 
 
 political year 1855-6, the majority of cases being cholera, but that 
 business went on as usual. I was in Eio de Janeiro during several 
 yellow-fever seasons, and though — from personal knowledge, by 
 visiting the hospitals and examining the list of the deceased — I 
 ascertained that a truly large proportion of the foreigners in the 
 city did fall before the terrific disease, yet, as a general thing, 
 there were about as many natives that died of consumption each 
 day as of the yellow fever. 
 
 Though no general pestilence has swept through the land, j^et 
 there are peculiar diseases in different parts of the Empire. In 
 some of the mountainous districts there exists the same swelling 
 of the throat and neck which is known in Switzerland as goiire. 
 •The Brazilians call it papos; and Von Martins saj'S that he found 
 in the valley of the Parahiba Eiver instances of this swelling larger 
 than are seen in Europe, but not accompanied with the melancholy 
 and idiotic appearance so often combined with the goitre in Switzer- 
 land, Germany, and Northern Italy. 
 
 At Limeira I became aware of a new disease, which, like the 
 goitre, seems to be confined to certain localities. I was sitting in 
 
 the office of Dr. , conversing with him in regard to Brazil, 
 
 when I observed a Portuguese, about sixty years of age, enter, and 
 demand, with great earnestness, if he thought that he could live. 
 Soon after, a middle-aged Bi^azilian came, and, seeming to cling to 
 the words of the physician as tenaciously as to a divine oracle, 
 made nearly the same interrogatory. Neither of these men ap- 
 peared in ill health, and, if I had not heard them state that they 
 had great difficulty in swallowing, I would have considered them 
 in a perfect sanitary condition. Upon inquirj^, I ascertained from 
 the doctor that these men had a disease which is widely i)i*evalent 
 in some portions of Interior Brazil, but he has never seen a notice 
 of it in any medical work whatever. The Brazilians call it mal 
 de engasgo. The first indication of its existence is a difficulty in 
 swallowing. The patient can swallow dry substances better than 
 fluids. Wine or milk can be drunken with more facility than 
 water; still, both are attended with difficulty. To take thin broth 
 is an impossibility^. In some cases fluids have been conveyed to 
 the stomach in connection with some solid. The person thus 
 aifected appears to be in good health, but in five or six years death 
 
 27 
 
418 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ensues from actual starvation. The sufferings of such a one was 
 described to m-e as most horrible. 
 
 Some phj'sicians in the province of San Paulo think it a paralysis 
 
 of the oesophagus; but Dr. , who has seen many cases of mal de 
 
 engasgo, inclines to the belief that it is a thickening of the mucous 
 membi-ane. As the oesoi^hagus is in general the least affected by 
 disease of any part of the body, and is very rarely paralyzed, he 
 cannot believe that so wide-spread a disease as the mal de engasgo 
 can proceed from paralysis. Living as he does in the interior, it 
 is difficult to obtain a subject for dissection, or permission to make 
 a post-mortem examination, and therefore he has had no oppor- 
 tunity for a thorough investigation of the disease; but it is his 
 intention to do so as soon as facilities present themselves, and then 
 to lay the result before the medical world. He informed me that 
 he was called to visit a man suffering from this malady eighty 
 miles from Limeira, and to his astonishment he found in the same 
 room no less than nine persons similarly affected. As yet no 
 remedy has been found. The full extent of country over which 
 the mal de engasgo prevails is not known ; but to this physician's 
 certain knowledge it exists from Limeira (two hundred miles from 
 the sea-coast) to Goyaz, — a distance of four hundred miles. It is 
 not found upon the coast; and a journey to the sea-board always 
 benefits the afflicted patient. In 1855 I communicated the above 
 facts in regard to the inal de engasgo to the New York "Journal 
 of Commerce." A few days after its publication, a physician of 
 Brooklyn suggested, in the columns of the same journal, that 
 there might be erysipelas at the bottom of the disease. He gave 
 as an instance one of his own patients who suffered from symp- 
 toms like those described, and which finally resulted in the 
 discovery of erysipelas. I know that one case of similarity in a 
 disease does not prove a general rule : still, the subject is worthy 
 of investigation. 
 
 One topic of our conversation possesses a far more general in- 
 terest than the nature of a new disease : it was the cultivation 
 of the Chinese tea in Brazil. 
 
 There is probably no other country where the culture of this 
 Asiatic shrub has been so successful away fi'om its native region. 
 The Portuguese language is the only European tongue wliich has 
 
The Culture of Chinese Tea. 419 
 
 preserv-ed the Chinese name {cha) for tea; and as the stranger at 
 Kio de Janeiro and other towns of the Empire passes the vendas, 
 he is always sure to see a printed card suspended, announcing Cha 
 da India and Cha National: the former is the designation given to 
 tea from China, and the latter to the same production grown in 
 Brazil. 
 
 In 1810, the first plants of this exotic were introduced at Eio de 
 Janeiro, and its cultivation for a time was chietlj confined to the 
 Botanical Garden near the capital and to the royal farm at Santa 
 Cruz. In order to secure the best possible treatment for the tea, 
 which it was anticipated would soon flourish so as to supply the 
 European market, the Count of Linhares, Prime Minister of Por- 
 tugal, procured the immigration of several hundred colonists, not 
 from the mingled population of the coast of China, but from the 
 interior of the Celestial Empire, — persons acquainted with the 
 whole process of training the tea-plant and of preparing tea. 
 
 This was probably the first colony from Asia that ever settled in 
 the New AVorld, of which we have authentic records. The colonists, 
 however, were not contented with their expatriation : they did not 
 prosper, and they have now disappeared. Owing in part, doubt- 
 less, to characteristic differences in the soil of Brazil from that of 
 China, and perhaps as much to imperfect means of preparing the 
 leaf when grown, the Chinese themselves did not succeed in pro- 
 ducing the most approved specimens of tea. The enthusiasm of 
 anticipation, being unsustained by experiment, soon died away; 
 and near the city of Rio de Janeiro the cultivation of tea has 
 dwindled down to be little more than an exotic grown on a large 
 scale at the Botanical Gardens. 
 
 As a Government matter it was a failure; but several Paulista 
 planters took up the culture, and, though they encountered years 
 of discouragement, they have lived to see it, though as yet in its 
 infancy, one of the most flourishing and remunerative branches of 
 Brazilian agriculture. * 
 
 Between Santos and San Paulo, near San Bernardo, I saw large 
 and productive tea-plantations. The manner of its culture differs 
 but little from that adopted in China. Tea is raised from the seed, 
 which, being preserved in brown sugar, can be transported to any 
 portion of the country. These little tea-balls are planted in oeds, 
 
i20 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and then, in the manner of cabbage-plants, are transported to the 
 field and placed five feet aj)art. The shrubs are kept very clean 
 by the hoe, or by the plough, which, though a recent introduc- 
 tion, has on some plantations been eminently successful for this 
 purpose. 
 
 The shrubs are never allowed to attain a height of more than 
 four feet; and the leaves are considered ready for picking the 
 third year after j)lanting. The culture, the gathering, and the 
 preparation of tea are not difficult, and childi'en are profitably 
 and efficiently employed in the various modes of arranging it for 
 market. The apj^aratus used is very simple, consisting of — 1. 
 Baskets, in which the leaves are deposited when collected; 2. Carved 
 framework, on which the}' are rolled, one by one; 3. Open ovens, 
 or large metallic pans, in which the tea is dried by means of a fire 
 beneath. Women and children gather the leaves and carry them 
 to the ovens, where slave-men are engaged in keeping up the fire, 
 stirring, squeezing, and rolling the tea, — which operations are all 
 that it requires before packing it in boxes for home-sale or for ex- 
 portation to the neighboring provinces. 
 
 The tea-plant is a hardy shrub, and can be cultivated in almost 
 any portion of Brazil, though it is perhaps better adapted to the 
 South, where frosts jjrevail, and which it resists. If left to itself in 
 the tropics, it will soon run up to a tree. The coifee-tree requires 
 rich and new soil, and-4i warm climate unknown to frosts; but the 
 
 tea-i)lant will flourish in any soil. Dr. , who visited various 
 
 portions of China, is of the opinion that the cha can be grown in 
 any part of the United States from Pennsylvania to the Mexican 
 Gulf There are not many varieties of the plant, as is often sup- 
 posed, black and green teas being merely the leaves of the same 
 tree obtained at different seasons of the year. The flavor is some- 
 times varied, as that of wines from the same species of grape grown 
 on different soils. The plant is not deciduous, as in China, and in 
 Brazil is gathered from March to July, which in the Northern 
 hemisphere would correspond to the interval between September 
 and January. 
 
 I was informed that several million pounds are now annually 
 prepared in the provinces of San Paulo and Minas-Geraes, and its 
 culture is on the increase. 
 
The Deceived Custom-House Officials. 421 
 
 Some years ago the tea-planters were greatly discouraged; for 
 the cha was badly prepared, was sold too new, and hence the de- 
 mand did not increase. But, since a greater expeinence in its cul- 
 ture and preparation, a better article for this favorite beverage 
 has met with corresponding encouragement. Formerly the culti- 
 vators said that, if they could obtain sixteen cents per pound 
 wholesale, it would be as remunerative as coffee. In 1855, twenty 
 cents for the poorer article could be obtained; and for superior 
 qualities — the greater portion of the crop — forty cents per pound 
 wholesale was readily commanded. The demand for it is constantly 
 increasing. When rightly prepared, it is not inferior to that im- 
 ported from China. Much, indeed, of the tea sold in the province 
 of San Paulo as cha da India has merely made the sea-voyage from 
 Santos to Eio de Janeiro, and there, after being packed in Chinese 
 boxes, is sent back to the Paulistas as the genuine aromatic leaf 
 from the Celestial Empire. I have seen foreigners in Brazil who 
 esteemed themselves connoisseurs in tea deceived by the best cha 
 nagional. 
 
 A few years ago, Mr. John Rudge, of the province of San Paulo, 
 sent some tea from his plantation as a present to his relatives in 
 Eio de Janeiro. This was prepared very nicely, each separate leaf 
 having been rolled by the slaves between the thumb and forefinger 
 until it looked like small shot. It was thus invested with a foreign 
 appearance, packed in small Chinese tea-caddies, and shipped at 
 Santos for the capital. When the caddies arrived, they were seized 
 at the custom-house as an attempt to defraud the revenue. It was 
 on the other hand insisted that the boxes contained cha national, 
 although, by some neglect, they did not appear upon the manifest. 
 The parties to whom the tea had been sent offered to have it sub- 
 mitted to inspection. The caddies were opened, and the custom- 
 house officials screamed with triumph, adding to their former sus- 
 picions the evidence of their senses, for the sight, the taste, the 
 smell of the nicely-prepared tea proclaimed emphatically that it 
 was cha da India, and that this was an attempt to defraud His 
 Imperial Majesty's customs. It was not until letters were sent 
 to Santos, and in reply the certificates of that provincial custom- 
 house had been received, that the collectors at Eio were satisfied 
 that there was no fraud, and that the province of San Paulo 
 
4:22 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 could produce as good tea as that brought arour.d the Cape of 
 Good Hope. 
 
 A few years may suffice to show on the pages of the "Commerce 
 and Navio-ation" of Great Britain and the United States that tea 
 
 o 
 
 enters hirgely into tlie articles of importation from Brazil. Fifty 
 years only have elapsed since the first cargo of coffee was shipped 
 from Eio dc Janeiro, and now Brazil supplies two-thirds of the coffee 
 of the world. ■ The revolution in Hayti was the commencement of 
 a new era for the cofiee of Brazil. 
 
 In 1846, Dr. learned that several planters were about to 
 
 root up their tea-shrubs. He besought them not to carry out their 
 intention J ''for," said he, "there is to be a great revolution in 
 China, [in 1845 he had been informed in the Celestial Empire of the 
 existence of the Triad Society,] and the price of teas will be sure to 
 go up in a few years." The disheartened planters were encouraged 
 to go on; and, only a short time before my visit to Limeii-a, one of 
 
 these fazendeiros sent to Dr. several pounds of most excellent 
 
 tea, at the same time assuring him (the doctor) of his deep grati- 
 tude for having been prevented from the destruction of his planta- 
 tion. He had found it exceedingly remunerative, and next year 
 he intended to enter into more extensive operations. 
 
 Throughout the world the use of tea is becoming as universal as 
 that of coffee, and any continued disturbance in China must bring 
 into prominent notice the tea-culture of Bi*azil. The recolte is now 
 almost entirely used within the Empire; but the adaptability of the 
 culture to almost any portion of the immense territory, and the 
 ease by which it can be carried on, will doubtless, in a very brief 
 period of time, fully develop this new source of national wealth. 
 
 It was on the morning of the 2d of July that I set out on my 
 departure from Limeira. I shall never forget the kindness and 
 attention of my generous host, as well as the welcome reception at 
 the model plantation of Senator Vergueiro. The few days spent 
 there so pleasantly gave me fresh hopes and great encouragement 
 for the future of Brazil.* 
 
 * At Limeira I met a German engineer, who, with his accomplished Hamburgese 
 wife, (to whom I am indebted for the sketches of the bridge at Cubitao and the 
 German colonist's house) forms an agreeable society i< r Dr. . 
 
Homeward Bound. 423 
 
 The moon was shining brightly as I bade farewell to the two 
 Americans and turned my face, for the first time in months, home- 
 ward. I rode on in silence for half an hour, and was then over- 
 taken by a "lone horseman" going in the direction of Camjiinas. 
 We journeyed together, and at noon we halted near a clear, purling 
 brook, and beneath the shade, of lofty, overarching trees we 
 shared a palatable dish of farinha de milho and fried chicken, which 
 tl e good mulher of the Paulista had thoughtfully provided for his 
 journej'. I have often had occasion to speak of the kindness mani- 
 fested by Brazilians of all classes toward strangers. The casual 
 visitor to Bi-azil may, in the coast-cities, come in contact with, 
 shopkeeping Portuguese, whose fleecing propensities are not ex- 
 celled b}' their brethren in London, Paris, or New Yoi-k; and 
 hence he may grandly generalize, in writing home to some obscure 
 journal, that the Brazilians are the greatest set of rascals in the 
 world. 
 
 My travelling-companion was a carpenter, but was an adept in 
 other crafts. My horse having cast two of his shoes, we turned to 
 a road-side venda and purchased the necessary articles, which Sr. 
 Tomaso attached with all the skill of a practised blacksmith. 
 
 We arrived at Camjsinas at four o'clock in the afternoon. I rode 
 immediately to a hospederia ; but the innkeeper seemed so perfectly 
 indifferent as to custom that I bade him good-da}', and sought the 
 house of an English daguerreotypist, to whom I had letters. I 
 had there a warm welcome, and the remainder of daylight was 
 spent in rambling through this mud built city in company with my 
 
 host and an Italian physician to whom Dr. of Limeira had 
 
 given me a note of introduction. I found much to interest me in 
 the vast cathedral, built wholly of taipa: the carved woodwork 
 (reminding one of old European cloisters) was by some mulatto 
 sculptors from Bahia, and w^ould have done credit to the best 
 Italian artists in that line. The physician, who was a fierce Mal- 
 thusian, entertained me with long-winded speeches in suj^port of 
 his favorite ideas, until I finally obtained a respite by leading him 
 on to some wonderful snake-stories, which, though equalling in 
 length (the stories, not the snakes) his Malthusian arguments, were 
 far more interesting. 
 
 I made arrano-ements at the house of a mule-dealer for an extra 
 
424 Brazil and the Braziliaxs. 
 
 animal, which was to cany me forward on the morrow, as my 
 Eosinante gave evidence of exhaustion. My newly-engaged quad- 
 ruped was to be forthcoming, together with a guide, at sunrise. 
 The sunrise came, and two succeeding hours; but neither biped 
 nor quadruped appeai*ed. Finally, when almost in despair, the 
 long-expected pair clattered up to the door. The usual apologies 
 of "mules in pasture," "diflScult to catch," &c., were offered and 
 accej)ted. I Boon perceived that my guide, instead of being a mere 
 employee, was the son of the proprietor of the animals which we 
 bestrode, — that he was not simply Jose, but Scnhor Jose, — and that 
 he was musical withal. I, however, feared that his j^osition as a 
 gentleman might somewhat interfere with the orders for increased 
 speed which from time to time I might find it necessary to issue. 
 
 We rode on through a finely-cultivated region, large coffee- 
 plantations stretching on either hand as far as the eye could reach, 
 variegated with fields of waving sugarcane or groups of umbra- 
 geous forest-trees. My companion enlivened the way by many 
 songs to the Virgin and "to his mistress's eyebrows;" but, when 
 the sun had sunk beneath the horizon, Sr. Jose concluded that we 
 had journeyed far enough for one day, and proposed that we should 
 tarry for the night at the house of a planter near by. To this I 
 strongly objected, as my contract was that I should be carried for 
 a specific sum to a specific point, several leagues farther on. I 
 found that he was no underling, to be crossed in his wishes; and he 
 firmly resisted. I would have left him where he was, without 
 further ado; but, knowing the difficulty of separating animals that 
 have ti-avelled in company, I thought best to compromise the 
 matter by stating that we would remain here for the night, in 
 which case, however, the compensation would be several milreis 
 less than if we had accomplished the contemplated number of 
 leagues. But he was not the man for a compromise: he demanded 
 full pay for short work. I then determined, at all hazards, to push 
 on without him. I found m}" perverse horse as stubborn as Sr. Jose. 
 I endeavored to start him in the direction of San Paulo: he, how- 
 ever, was resolved to travel only toward the plantation. I spurred 
 the mule, which I rode, after him, endeavoring to head off the 
 horse : this I found a most difficult task. Sr. Jose, meantime, sat 
 motionless as a statue, secretly and maliciously enjoying my un- 
 
Sr. Jose and a Little Difficulty. 425 
 
 successful efforts. I was fatigued beyond measure; but my will 
 was unbroken, (as well as that of my horse,) and at last victory 
 crowned my struggles, and, shouting to Sr. Jose " Boa nolte," and 
 triumphantly exclaiming, ''I know how to protect my rights," I 
 trotted off, Rosinante in advance, toward San Paulo. 
 
 Glancing over ni}'- shoulder, I beheld my guide still statue-like 
 bestriding his mule, and comparable to any thing else than 
 "Patience on a monument smiling at grief." Poetically speak- 
 ing, he was planted. 
 
 My way was now over a good road, though the overhanging 
 forest obscured almost every ray of moonlight. My animal went 
 gayly on, leaving, however, time enough for a few reflections. 
 Among them the most prominent was, "Suppose Sr. Jose rides 
 after me and salutes me in the back with his long knife," {faca de 
 ponta,) which looked innocent enough when reposing in its sheath 
 or cutting an orange. In all my travels in Brazil I never carried 
 a weapon of any kind, and this was the first time that I felt the 
 least suspicion that all might not be perfectly safe. In the midst 
 of these reflections and thoughts about that long knife, I had 
 accomplished more than a half-league, when I heai'd the rapid 
 movement of mule-hoofs. Sr. Jose came thundering up the hill, 
 and overtook me. Instead, however, of a knife-salutation or loud 
 words, ho instantly, in the mildest possible voice, suggested that 
 we should change beasts, as he was very much fatigued, and that 
 the difference in the gait of the two animals would be a relief 
 to both parties. We went on as cosily as if nothing had happened, 
 and at eleven o'clock rode up to the house of one Sr. Joiio Baptista, 
 ■whose residence Avas christened with the mellifluous and auriferous 
 name of California. 
 
 We soon aroused Sr. J. Baptista, who, while we sipped our cha, 
 tinkled on his guitar " many a roundelay." I informed Sr. J. B. 
 that the morrow was the dia da independencia in the United States, 
 and requested the favor of " Hail Columbia." Sr. J. B. declined, on 
 the ground of not possessing the tune in question; but (like a 
 skilful shopkeeper who, destitute of a certain article, suggests to 
 his customer another which, in his estimation, is equally good 
 if not superior) Sr. J. B. proposed the Brazileiro, as being nearer 
 the required national air than any thing else ia his musical 
 
426 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians, 
 
 HERCULES BEETLE. 
 
 treasury. Its spirit-stirring strains were quivering in my ear 
 when I thousrht how difficult it would be to find in the back- 
 
 woods of Wisconsin or Minnesota ac- 
 complished musicians such as Sr. J. B. 
 or Sr. Jose, who was also skilled in the 
 art. The Brazilians, as a whole, are a 
 musical people, and sometimes, during 
 a storm, when I have been plodding 
 on in darkness, I have been cheered 
 by the sound of a violin, a guitar, or 
 by human voices singing sweetly in 
 concert. 
 
 1 could sleep but little, and that 
 little was rudely interupted, (whether 
 by a giant beetle or a stealthy bat I 
 was unable to ascertain;) and I jumped 
 from my hard bed at two o'clock on 
 the morning of the Fourth of July, 
 and aroused the household of Sr. J. 
 Baptista and the sleepers in the neighboring rancho by screaming 
 at the top of my voice the " Star-sj^angled Banner." 
 
 I bade my musical host and Senhor Jose adeos, mounted my 
 Kosinante, and accomplished thirty-two miles before breakfast. 
 My primary object had been to get to Santos, in order to take the 
 steamer of the 6th for Eio; and a secondary consideration was to 
 celebrate the Fourth of July at the house of Mr. E., the English 
 engineer. 
 
 I visited Senhor Brotero, the President of the Law-School for 
 which San Paulo is so justly celebrated. Madame Brotero I found 
 to be a countrywoman, from Boston. I also made the acquaintance 
 of Senhor Brotero, Jr., to whom Senhor Octaviano, the accom- 
 plished editor of the Correio Mercantil, of Eio, had given me a letter 
 of introduction. This gentleman, who bids fair to be one of the 
 leading men of S. Paulo, possesses enlarged views, and has had the 
 advantage of extended travel in Europe and North America. 
 
 It was a pleasant forenoon that I spent with Mr. and Mrs. E. 
 and Mr. C, inaugurating with them the celebration of my nation's 
 birthday. Mr. C, however, threw something of a damper upon 
 
Fourth of July Inaugurated at S. Paulo. 
 
 427 
 
 my patriotism by dropping in, "By-the-way, it is the birthday of 
 George III.:" but chronology shows that Mr. C. was just four 
 weeks out of the way, and his inappropriate remark in no manner 
 marred the general harmony of the occasion. 
 
 These and other friends pressed me not to hasten on at my rapid 
 rate, thinking that thirty-two miles before breakfast was sufficient 
 for one day : but my purpose was to make twenty miles that night 
 before I sought repose. 
 
 Senhor Coelho (the maitre-d' hotel) had procured for me a fine 
 mule. He was a lithe animal, and when I mounted he bounded 
 
 YANKEE DOODLE ON THE PLAINS OF YPIRANGA. 
 
 away as though he had wings. He clattered through the streets, 
 descended the hill, splashed through a little affluent of the La 
 Plata, and, just as the sun was setting, went galloping gayly over 
 the plains of Ypiranga. I soon came in sight of the pavilion 
 erected over the spot where Dom Pedro I. exclaimed, Independencia 
 ou Morte, and, being animated wnth Fourth-of-July sentiments, I 
 gave vent to my patriotism in shouting, at a furious rate, "Yankee 
 Doodle " and " Hail Columbia," to the no small amusement and 
 astonishment of the sable passers-by. M§ 
 
 1 reached San Bernardo and passed through its silent streets. 
 The atmosphere was laden with the perfume of some sweet night- 
 
428 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 opening flower, and the sky overhead seemed joyous as my home- 
 ward-bound spirits. My mule flagged not, and I was congratu- 
 lating myself that my journey's end would soon be accomplished, 
 when, to my surprise, the spirited beast whirled suddenly' to the 
 right, and plunged into the stable-yard adjoining a large -white 
 house. I kicked, and cuffed, and spui-red, all to no purpose. The 
 noise which I made aroused two poncho-clad Brazilians, who came 
 toward me, thus discoursing in Portuguese: — "Yes, it is he." 
 "No; let me look again." <' Yes, I am certain it is." These little 
 mDnosyllables are as brief and as elliptical in the language of Lusi- 
 tania as in the plainest Saxon, and could give me no clue to the 
 meaning of the locutors. I was not, however, long left in doubt, 
 for one of them approached, and thus addressed me: — ^' Senhor, 
 isto e meu animal." (''This is my beast, sir.") Supjiosing that he 
 was mildly accusing me of theft, I replied that he must be mis- 
 taken, for I had hired that mule at S. Paulo. "It may be," he 
 said; "but still he is mine." I then ascertained that the man Avas 
 the proprietor of my long-eared steed, and that he (the proprietor) 
 had preceded me in company with a number of law-students who 
 were on their way to Santos. Feeling by this time much fotigued, 
 and considering the stubbornness that had come over my quadruped, 
 I asked if I might lodge at the house for the night. The other 
 personage now turned up his sombrero and informed me that there 
 was no room in the inn, but possibly I might be accommodated a 
 mile flirther on. I could not make my mule stir; so these two 
 benevolent individuals aided me in whipping and kicking the 
 brute until he was fairly under way. I had, however, advanced 
 only five hundred yards, when master long-ears pulls me up again, 
 and no dint of beating, pulling, pounding, and tugging could make 
 him budge a peg on the "forward march." He willingly beat a 
 retreat, and the next moment I again stood before the white 
 hospedaria from which I had been politely sent away a short time 
 before. My two new-made acquaintances were soon by my side, 
 and I once more begged for a room. One of them gave a negative 
 answer; but, when I suggested that I was willing to pay a good 
 price for my accomm^^tions, he left me as if to consult some one. 
 I then heard an emphatic female voice screech out, "Xao, Senhor." 
 This reply was brought to me, and I sent back word that I had 
 
Lame and Impotent Conclusion. 
 
 429 
 
 letters from Senator Vergueiro, showing that I was a respectahle 
 person. It was of no avail, for at each fresh attempt to move the 
 tender mercies of the woman to whom belonged that voice, I re- 
 ceived a more emphatic " JVdo, senhor." My last resort was to 
 claim, in "the sacred name of Brazilian hospitality, only room 
 enough upon their floor for a stranger who is here stopped con- 
 trary to his own will." The reply was the same, "JVao, senhor." 
 "Then," said I, "it is an outrageous shame. I have travelled 
 through a number of your provinces, and have mingled much with 
 the rich and the poor, but this is the first time that I have been 
 unable to obtain shelter. Here I am, compelled before a large 
 house to pass the night in the road." My appeals and denun- 
 ciations were equally 
 unsuccessful; so I sat 
 
 down upon a curb- ^ -^ __ 
 
 stone, holding the ^ 
 
 bridle of my obsti- 
 nate and tired ani- 
 mal. Poor fellow ! his 
 fiitigue was not equal 
 to mine. I had ridden 
 since morning nearly 
 fifty miles, and had 
 spent seven hours in 
 San Paulo. Three or 
 four daj's had elapsed 
 since I had had a com- 
 fortable sleep, and the 
 night-air was keen for 
 Brazil, though it was 
 as balmy as a May 
 evening in the North- 
 ern hemisphere. The 
 body, however, was 
 not suffering so much 
 as the mind. I felt ^i- 
 
 this inhospitality to the quick. I sat with mj' head bowed down 
 upon my left hand, turning my eyes from time to time toward the 
 
 ASTRONOMY UNDER DIFFICULT CIRCUMSTANCES. 
 
430 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Btars and the waning moon. It was studjnng astronomy under 
 difficult circumstances, so tliat I did not make much progress. 
 
 While thinking of my condition, and feeling that it was worse, 
 and my treatment more outrageous, than when, a mere innocent 
 student-traveller, I was once taken prisoner on suspicion by the 
 Austrians in Lombardy, and led by an armed soldier through the 
 streets of Pavia, I was aroused from my reflections by an old 
 negress, Avho said to me, "Come here, senhor." I followed her to 
 a comfortable room, where she left me with a nice cup of tea and 
 doce accompaniments. My mule was cared for, as well as mj^self, 
 and Avhen the morning sun awoke me I found that I was to have 
 as my fellow-travellers the young law-students. I ascertained 
 that this house was kept by a respectable Brazilian widoAv, Avho 
 was making a large fortune by letting mules for riding or for 
 the transportation of baggage, and that whoever emploj-ed her 
 animals in S. Paulo would be entertained gratis at this otherwise 
 inhospitable hospedaria. It so happened that the students and 
 myself were not aware of this regulation, and had hired our mules 
 of another man, who had guided them as far as this house. Here 
 the young "legals" insisted on stopping. The Donna da Casa 
 ■•efused them accommodation, and they had taken possession vi et 
 armis. It may be that, owing to senhora being somewhat embit- 
 t-«-red by such proceedings, had refused me when I pleaded the name 
 of Senator Yergueiro and Brazilian hospitality. For assuredly 
 there was plenty of room, when we consider that there were eight 
 unoccupied beds in the house. It may be, also, that the senhora 
 was suspicious of a stranger travelling alone at that hour of the 
 night, as she had been deceived a few weeks before by an indi- 
 vidual who pretended to have letters from a nobleman, but who 
 turned out to be an unmitigated scoundi'ol. I was (justly, as I 
 thought) indignant for a time, and entertained an idea that it 
 would be right that the public should know through the Eio 
 journals of such treatment to an estrangeiro ; but the more I 
 reflected upon it, I became rather ashamed of my indignation. I 
 had travelled thousands of miles In Brazil, and this was the first 
 experience of the bitTCr; and how foolish it would be to lay it 
 before the public ! The widow had a perfect right to make such 
 regulations as she chose concerning her household, and an Anglo- 
 
Eeturn to Rio de Janeiro. 431 
 
 Americ.in who is firm for the independence of the home-castle is 
 assm"edly the last man who ought to complain. So I dismissed 
 the whole subject, and have never recurred to it since, except to 
 indulge in a laugh at my own ludicrous position in the stable- 
 yard, and the tableau of the stubborn mule and the curbstone. 
 Thus ended my Fourth of July, 1855. 
 
 The next day I arrived with my student-friends at Santos, and, 
 after enjoying for a few days more the hospitality of Casa Vergueiro, 
 I steamed away in the comfortable old Paraense for Eio de Janeiro. 
 From San Sebastian to the Sugar-Loaf we were pitched about in 
 fine style by an angry sea; but the sun shone forth brilliantly as 
 on the following day we lay under the guns of Villegagnon, and 
 the glorious panorama of the magnificent bay, sparkling in the 
 freshness of morning, lost none of its splendor by comparison 
 with the beautiful scenes which I had witnessed in Southern 
 Brazil, and which I afterward found unequalled in the provinces 
 of the North. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — The province of S. Paulo, like other Southern provinces, by 
 its climate, soil, &c., oflFers very desirable inducements to emigrants from the 
 United States. The hilly portions of S. Paulo, Parang, St. Catharines, and 
 Rio Grande do Sul are the best adapted to sheep-farming. A very pleasant 
 offering of four fine merinos to the Emperor of Brazil was made by Dr. George 
 B. Loring, of Salem, Massachusetts, in 1865. The sheep were received at Rio 
 ■with thankfulness by the Emperor, and were placed in the hands of Mr. John 
 Hayes, the energetic and intelligent American director of the plantations of the 
 Baron of Maud. These sheep will be the beginning of better things in the ovine 
 race in the Southern provinces. Senhor Marcondes, the Minister of Agriculture 
 in the Cabinet of August, 18G4, and Senhor Paulo Souza, filling the same station 
 in the Cabinet of May, 1865, highly praise the gift of Dr. Loring. 
 
 ^*. 
 
CHAPTEE XXIII. 
 
 THE BRAZILIAN NORTH EXTENT OF THE EMPIRE — THE FALLS OF ITAMARITY 
 
 GIGANTIC FIG-TREE — THE KEEL-BILL A PLANTATION IN MINAS-GEBAES — PETER 
 
 PARLEY IN BRAZIL SWEET LEMONS BARONIAL STYLE THE PADRE VESPER- 
 HOURS THE PLANTATION-ORCHESTRA THE WHITE ANTS OBEDIENT TO THE 
 
 CHURCH, — THE GREAT ANT-EATER — THE PACA THE MUSICAL CART — THE MINES 
 
 AND OTHER RESOURCES OF MINAS-GERAES COFFEE : ITS HISTORY AND CULTURE 
 
 THE PROVINCE OF GOYAZ STINGLESS BEES AND SOUR HONEY MATO GBOSSO 
 
 LONG RIVER-ROUTE TO THE ATLANTIC A NEW THOROUGHFARE LIEUTENANT 
 
 THOMAS J. PAGE THE SURVEY OF THE LA PLATA AND ITS AFFLUENTS FIRST 
 
 AMERICAN STEAMER AT CORUMBA STEAMBOAT-NAVIGATION ON THE PARAGUAY 
 
 OFFICERS OF THE AMERICAN NAVY DR. KANE AND LIEUTENANT STRAIN 
 
 DIAMOND AND GOLD MINES THE HINDERERS OF PROGRESS THE DIFFERENCE 
 
 IN THE RESULTS FROM DIAMONDS AND COFFEE. 
 
 c 
 
 ^ow to the North: not 
 the Boreal North, with 
 hoary beard and glisten- 
 ing spears and crunch- 
 ing ice-batteries, — but a 
 genial, sunny, laughing, 
 flowery, Austral North. 
 
 e on the hither side 
 of the equator are so 
 wedded to experience, 
 that it is difficult to con- 
 ceive of a North where 
 
 "The fields are florid in eternal prime," 
 
 and where mighty rivers, with 
 unabated force, sweep onward, — 
 
 "And traverse realms unknown and bloom- 
 «.. ing wilds, 
 
 And fruitful deserts, worlds of solitude ; 
 THE MfNEiRo. "Where the sun smiles and seasons teem in vain." 
 
 432 
 
C 4'af ADE OF ITAMARITY, NEAR £M..J.^£^^J1X .1 S. 
 
Extent of the Empire. 433 
 
 I could never become accustomed to look for the sun and 
 the equator in the direction which all past experience told me 
 was the region of stern winter. I could not be reconciled to 
 the idea that the southern front of my Brazilian residence was 
 the coldest side, although I knew that reason and geographj' 
 informed me that that portion of my house looked toward the 
 Falkland Islands and the unexplored snow-continent of the 
 Antarctic zone. 
 
 But to the Brazilian North ! If by land, it will be many months 
 of painful journeys up mountains and hills, through dense forests 
 and jungles, over wide campos and broad rivers, before we reach 
 the Sena Facaranua, which divides Brazil and Venezuela. J have 
 not seen the record of a single traveller who has ever accomplished 
 this long terrestrial route. Eschwege, Eodriguez, Ferreira, Nat- 
 terer, Mawe, Prince Maximilian, Spix and Yon Martius, St. Hilaire, 
 Langsdorf, Pohl, Burchell, Gardner, Lieutenant Strain, the expedi- 
 tion under Castlenau, and Wallace, have traversed large districts 
 of Brazil; while — not to mention earlier fluvial explorations — 
 Mawe, Smyth, Edwards, Herndon, Gibbon, and Wallace (the most 
 thorough explorer) have examined the Amazon, and Lieutenant 
 Page has the honor of being the first scientific investigator of the 
 La Plata and some of its tributaries. Still, it is hazarding nothing 
 to say tliat the greater jjortion of this extensive Empire has only 
 been trodden by the foot of the wild Indian, or, at long intervals, 
 by the most adventurous of the Portuguese traders. It is difficult 
 for us to comprehend even the dry tables of distances : how much 
 more inconceivable the toil and the almost insurmountable obstacles 
 to be endured and overcome in a vast country with a sparse popu- 
 lation, and, in certain portions, no roads save the paths of cattle 
 and the tracks of the tapir ! The distance, on a straight line 
 drawn from the head-waters of the river Parima, on the north, to 
 the southern shores of the Lagoa Mirim, in Eio Grande do Sul, is 
 greater than that from Boston to Liverpool. It is farther from 
 Pernambuco to the western boundary which separates Peru and 
 Brazil, than by a direct route from London, across the Continent, 
 to Egypt. Brazil has neither been explored nor surveyed, and its 
 full extent cannot be accurately ascertained; but, accoiding to the 
 best calculations made in 1845 for the Diccionario Geographico 
 
 28 
 
434 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Brazileiro, the Empire contains within its borders 3,004,460 square 
 miles. The United States, by the hxtost computations of the Topo- 
 graphical Bureau at Washington, has an area of 3,002,013 square 
 miles. But by the settlement of different boundary-lines since 
 1856, Brazil has acquired additional territory: so that we should 
 have to add to the jjossessions of the United States an area equal 
 to that of the adjacent States of New England, New York, and 
 Pennsylvania, to make it of the same dimensions as the land of the 
 Southern Cross Euroj)ean Eussia possesses an area of 2,142,504 
 square miles, and the remainder of Europe 1,687,626. It is by 
 these figures and comparisons that we may arrive at an approxi- 
 mate idea of the vastness of Brazil. 
 ^ It is not, however, its extent which should attract our attention 
 
 80 much as the fact that no portion of the globe is so available for 
 cultivation and for the sustentation of man. 
 
 It has already been seen that the internal resources of this 
 Emj)ire are commensurate with its favored position and its wide 
 extent. It is neither the gold of its mines nor the diamonds that 
 sparkle in the beds of its inland rivers that constitute the greatest 
 sources of its available wealth. Although natui-e has bestowed 
 upon Brazil the most precious minerals, yet she has been still more 
 C/'' prodigal in the gift of vegetable riches. Embracing nearly five 
 degrees north of the equator, the whole latitude of the southern 
 torrid and ten degrees of the southei'n tempei*ate zone, and 
 stretching its longitude from Cape St. Augustine, (the easternmost 
 point of the continent,) across the mountains of its own interior, to 
 the very foot of the Andes, its soil and its climate offer an asylum 
 to almost every valuable plant. In addition to numberless varieties 
 of indigenous growth, there is scareelj' a production of either India 
 which might not be naturalized in great perfection under or near 
 the equator; while its interior uplands, and its soil in the Far 
 South, welcome many of the fruits, the grains, and the hardier 
 vegetables of Europe. 
 
 Ever}- year this Empire is becoming more developed; yet it will 
 require two centuries of its present progress to bring it to an equal 
 position with the United States. The signs of the times are, how- 
 ever, that Brazil will not go on at the snail's-pace which charac- 
 terized her up to the abolition of the slave-trade; and the internal 
 
The Falls of Itamarity. 435 
 
 improveinents auspiciously begun under D. Pedro II. will rapidly 
 unfold the resources of the country. 
 
 Of the twenty provinces, four only are inland, — viz. : Minas- 
 Geraes, Goyaz, Mato Grosso, and Amazonas, (sometimes called 
 Alto Amazonas.) It is in Mato Grosso ("dense forest") and 
 Goyaz that the head-waters of the Amazon and the La Plata have 
 their origin, within a few miles of each other; while on the bor- 
 ders of Minas-Geraes the sources of the San Francisco, the Tocan- 
 tins, and the La Plata take their rise from the same mountain- 
 ridge. 
 
 The usual route to the fertile province of Minas-Geraes is thi'ough 
 Petropolis, and the traveller thither should not fail to make a little 
 detour and visit one of the prettiest cascades in Brazil. Following 
 for a few miles the highroad to the Minas, we turn to our right, 
 and there, among the dells formed by the Serra da Estrella, wo 
 find the Falls of Itamarity. The name, in the Guarani language, 
 signifies "shining stones," or "the rock which shines;" so called, 
 doubtless, from the glittering appearance of the large mass of rock, 
 the face of which is worn smooth by the water. Ita means "stone 
 or rock." This cascade is composed of three distinct falls, formed 
 by a stream of small size unless after heavy rains. The charm of 
 this lovely spot consists in the surrounding woods and the mur- 
 muring waters; so that we may truly say that 
 
 "the gush of springs 
 And fall of lofty fountains, and the bend 
 Of stirring branches, and the bud which brings 
 The swiftest thought of beauty, here extend, 
 Mingling, and made by Love unto one mighty end." 
 
 Garlands of parasites enfold the old trees in their graceful arms, 
 and bands of verdant climbers depend from the highest boughs to 
 the very ground. The torrent has undermined the banks and 
 prostrated the trees that stood near the edges, and they now lie in 
 wild disorder across the bed of the stream, mingled here and there 
 with huge stones brought down by the force of the water. 
 
 The bridge represented in the engraving was improvised for the 
 occasion of the visit by Sir W. Gore Ouseley, formerly British 
 ]\Iinister to Br-izil. Such crossings are easily formed by felling a 
 
436 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 few trees and binding them together with the supple vines that 
 abound. Nature soon heals her wounds and clothes them with 
 parasites, so that in a few weeks the artificial structure seems like 
 a work of her own hand. 
 
 The road from Petropolis to Barbacena is exceedingly pic- 
 turesque, — sometimes winding along the side of a mountain which 
 
 A BRAZILIAN MOUNTAIN-ROAD. 
 
 gives extensive views of plains be3'ond, and sometimes in deep 
 valleys along the banks of babbling streams. Long troops of 
 mules on their way to Estrella are constantly passing; but — to 
 nliow the wildiiess of the region notwithstanding frequent vil- 
 lages and fiizendas — we were startled ever}^ few moments by 
 flocks of wild parrots, and could hear in the trees the chattering 
 of monkeys. Now a fine road for coaches leads to Barbacena. 
 
 At a place called Padre Correas, not far from Petropolis, is a 
 celebrated wild-fio; tree, whose branches extend over a circum- 
 
Giant Fig-Tree and the Jacaranda. 437 
 
 fercnce of four hundred and eighty feet, and four thousand persons, 
 it is computed, can stand under its shade at noonday. Near by, 
 on the heiirht east of the hamlet, can also be seen two rows of the 
 Brazilian pine, {Araiicaria Braziliana,) so well known in the large 
 conservatories of Europe and the United States. Yery fine speci- 
 mens of this Brazilian pine-tree are to be found in the Crystal 
 Palace at Sydenham. ^Yhen one hundred miles farther in the 
 interior, I saw xnviwy jacaranda (rosewood) trees. Their resemblance 
 to the common locust of the United States is very striking. There 
 are a number of species of the jacaranda, varying in tint from a 
 deep rich brown to a beautiful violet. The latter kind I have 
 never seen north of the equator, save in small specimen-pieces; 
 but, at the Fazenda do Governo, Dr. Joaquim A. P. Da Cunha, the 
 amiiable proprietor, showed me, in his establishment for making 
 sugar, a beam, fifty feet long and three feet in diameter, of the 
 violet-tinted jacaranda. It had performed the menial office of a 
 connecting-beam for fifty years, and its exterior was dusty ; but, 
 on chipping it, I found it to be of the most beautiful violet. The 
 wood of Dr. Da Cunha's pig-pen consisted of boards and sticks of 
 rosewood : but let none of my readers imagine a highly-polished 
 piano or a splendid centre-table; for exposure to the atmosphere 
 renders the jacaranda as plebeian in appearance as the commonest 
 weather-beaten pine. The rosewood-tree is cut down, deprived 
 of its branches, and conveyed to market generally by floating it 
 to some seaport-town, Avhence it is shipped to North America and 
 Europe. It is of exceeding hardness and durability, — cog-wheels 
 made of this wood lasting longer than those constructed from any 
 other ligneous substance. The United States annually purchase 
 of Brazil eighty thousand dollars' worth. of rosewood. 
 
 As I was journeying in the province of Minas, I observed a flock 
 of birds of which I had seen the same species at the foot of the Organ 
 Mountains, and which I then took to be the common blackbirds so 
 well known in North America; but a closer inspection showed them 
 to possess a bill of remarkable thickness. They had a clear and 
 musical whistle, and I afterward discovered them to be the ani, — 
 a genus of scansorial birds found only in Tropical America. They 
 are sometimes called the keel-bill. They live in flocks, and it is 
 said that they have practical communism among them, many pairs 
 
•438 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 THE KEEL-BILL. 
 
 using the same nest, -which is built on the branches of trees, and 
 is of a large size. Here they lay and hatch in concert. 
 
 I cannot enter into the details of ray 
 journey in Minas-Geraes, but I am reluctant 
 to pass over a visit to one of the finest 
 plantations in the province. The proprietor 
 was a Brazilian, and the whole fazenda, 
 in its minutest details, was carried on in the 
 manner peculiar to the country, without 
 any admixture of foreign modes of govern- 
 ment and culture. 
 
 Twelve miles be^^ond the Parahibuna (an 
 aflfluent of the Parahiba) we turned aside 
 from the highway, and, after riding through 
 a belt of enclosed forest-land, we saw before us the large plantation- 
 house of Soldade, belonging to Senhor Commendador Silva Pinto. 
 The approach to the mansion was between two rows of palm-trees, 
 around whose trunks a beautiful bignonia (the venusta) entwined 
 itself, and then threw its climbing branches over the feathery leaves 
 of the palms, thus forming a magnificent arch of flowers and 
 foliage. /The buildings, in the form of a hollow square, occupied 
 an acre of ground. On two sides of the square was the residence 
 of the Commendador and his familj', while the remaining sides 
 consisted of the sugar-establishment and the dwellings of the 
 slaves. We entered the court-yard by a high gateway, and then 
 for the first time we perceived the venerable planter sitting in a 
 second-story veranda, reading. So soon as he saw us he laid down 
 his book, descended into the square, and with great affability bade 
 us a warm welcome. The American party doubtless owed this 
 hospitable reception to one of our companions. Dr. Ildefonso Gomez, 
 a Brazilian Avhom almost every man of science visiting the Empire 
 has delighted to honor for his intelligence, for his eminent abilities 
 as a natui'alist, and for his integinty as a jnan. 
 
 Servants flew about noiselessly at the commands of the Com- 
 mendador : they gave us rooms, hot coflee, hot baths, &c. &c. 
 Then both they and their master did that which is most grateful 
 to the weary traveller : they let us alone. 
 
 When I had performed my ablutions and was recovered from 
 
Peter Parley in Brazil. 439 
 
 fatigue, I went to the veranda where the Commendador had been 
 reading. I picked up his book, and to my astonishment I here 
 found that it was A Historia Universale do Senhor Pedro Parity, 
 (Peter Parley's Universal History!) Old Peter Parley in the inte- 
 rior of Brazil! I knew that England had availed herself of those 
 books which have delighted Anglo-American childhood, and that 
 hosts of counterfeiters and imitators had arisen, assuming that 
 nam de plume; but it was beyond m.j most sanguine expectations 
 to have ever seen in the Portuguese language, and in an interior 
 province of distant Brazil, the history of the Eastern and Western 
 Continents by Senhor Pedro Parley amusing and instructing youth 
 and old age. It was no imitation. In reading the preflice, I per- 
 ceived that some priest had had to do with the translation, for it 
 roundly asserted that Senhor Pedro Parley was tan bom Catholico 
 Romano! which will doubtless be an important piece of informa- 
 tion to the veritable Puritan-descended Peter. 
 
 I looked from the veranda upon a scene of cultivation. Close at 
 hand were one hundred and fifty hives with bees; gently-rounded 
 hills were covered with grazing flocks and herds, cotton and sugar 
 fields were in valleys, while Indian corn and mandioca in large 
 tracts were far to our right. The orange-orchard was the largest 
 that I ever saw in any land : it was computed that there were ten 
 thousand bushels of six different kinds of the luscious fi'uit. The 
 sweet lemon abounded to such an extent that it was estimated 
 that there were five thousand bushels. A "sweet lemon" seems 
 almost as much of a contradiction in terms as an honest thief; but 
 it is a i-eality. Dr. Ildefonso Gomez informed me that this fruit, 
 exactly resembling the acid one bearing the same name, was 
 originally a sour lemon, but, by a disease and by grafting, a new 
 species has been produced. The taste is not so rich as that of an 
 orange, but is very quenching to the thirst, and the Brazilians at 
 Rio consume great quantities of them. Near S. Romao, a little 
 place on the head-waters of the San Francisco, the lemon-tree has 
 become naturalized, and the cattle that pasture in the woods are so 
 fond of the fallen fruit that when killed their flesh smells strongly 
 of it. 
 
 Of all the articles mentioned above, not one finds its way to 
 market. They are for the sustenance and clothing of the 8la^'es, 
 
440 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of whom the Commendador formerly had seven hundred. These 
 are engaged in cultivating coffee, (for this is the great coffee- 
 region,) which is the only crop intended by the proprietor to bring 
 back a pecuniary return. This senhor owns other plantations, but 
 that of Soldade contains an area of sixty-four square miles. 
 
 At dinner we were served in a large dining-room. The Com- 
 mendador sat at the head of the table, while his guests and the 
 various free members of his family sat upon forms, the feitors 
 (overseei's) and shepherds being at the lower end. He lives in 
 true baronial style, and I was reminded of the descrij^tion by Mr. 
 J. G. Kohl of castle-life among the noblemen of Courland and 
 Livonia. A pleasant conversation was kept up during the long re- 
 past, and at its close three servants came, — one bearing a massive 
 silver bowl a foot and a half in diameter, another a pitcher of the 
 same material containing warm water, while a third carried 
 towels. The newly-arinved guests were thus ser\'ed in lieu of 
 finger-basins, which are rarel}?^ seen outside the capital. 
 
 The Commendador had a chapel in his mansion, and each morn 
 ing mass was performed by an amiable young Portuguese priest, 
 who knew much more about music than the gospel. The padre 
 had many questions to ask concerning the peculiar doctrines of 
 Protestants, and I was surprised to find that he possessed no 
 Bible. I presented him with a New Testament, and before my de- 
 parture we had many most earnest and serious conversations in 
 regard to vital piety and the solemn responsibility that was upon 
 him to teach the truth as it is in Christ Jesus. With the approval 
 of the Commendador, (which was heartily given,) exi^lanations of 
 the Scriptures were hereafter to constitute a portion of the chapel- 
 service on Sunday's. This planter is now the Baron of Bcrthioga. 
 
 On these interior plantations there is a beautiful custom at ves- 
 pers of ottering a short prayer and wishing each other a good- 
 night; not that they then retire, but boa noite is the form of a 
 blessing. We were all sitting on the veranda as the last rays of 
 the sun were gilding the hill and the distant forest. The chapel- 
 bell struck the vesper-hour. The conversation was arrested: we 
 all arose to our feet. The hum of the sugar-mill ceased; the shout 
 of the children died away; the slaves that were crossing the court- 
 yard stopped and uncovered the head. All devoutly folded their 
 
The Plantation-Orchestra. 441 
 
 hands and breathed the evening prayer to the Virgin. I too joined 
 in devotion to the blessed Saviour, the sole Mediator, and when 
 the padre and others wished me the blessing in the name of Nossa 
 Senliora, I returned the benediction em norne de JVosso Senhor Jesus 
 Christo. The noise of merry voices again rang through the court- 
 yard; the day's labor was finished; and soon night, with its dark- 
 ness, silence, and repose, reigned over Soldade. 
 
 Another custom I observed in various parts of Brazil, which, 
 though a mere unmeaning form, is a custom both Christian and 
 beautiful. I doubt, however, if one in a thousand attach any 
 deeper significancy to it than we do to "good-morning." At the 
 close of the day the slaves enter the room where their master is, 
 and, with their hands crossed, each addresses the fazendeiro in a 
 pious salutation, the full form of which is, "I beseech your blessing 
 in the name of our Lord Jesus Christ," and the reply should be, 
 ''Our Lord Jesus Chi'ist bless you forever;" but in time this prayer 
 and benediction are abbreviated to the last words of each sentence, 
 which are pronounced in a most rajoid and business-like manner by 
 both parties: — Jesiis Christo sempre, (forever.) 
 
 In the course of our conversation the Commendador told us that 
 he had his "own music now." He spoke of it very humbly. We 
 desired to hear his musicians, supposing that we should b^f.r •"• 
 wheezy plantation-fiddle, a fife, and a drum. The Coramor.d.f'.or 
 said that we should be gratified in the evening. An hour afcer 
 vespers I heard the twanging of violins, the tuning of ^uteo, short 
 voluntaries on sundry bugles, the clattering of trombcre'j. and all 
 those musical s}' niptoms preparatory to a beginning of some march, 
 waltz, or polka. I went to the room whence ])YO^r■od'Jd these 
 sounds; there I beheld fifteen slave musicians, — a regular band: 
 one presided at an organ, and there was a choir of younger negroes 
 arranged before suitable stands, upon which were sheets of printed 
 or manuscript music. I also observed a respectable colored gentle- 
 man (who sat near me at dinner) giving various directions. He 
 was the maestro. Three raps of his violin-bow commanded silence, 
 and then a wave of the same, a la Julien, and the orchestra com- 
 menced the execution of an overture to some opera with admirable 
 skill and precision. I was totally unprepai-ed fox this. But the 
 next piece overwhelmed me with surprise : the choir, accompanied 
 
442 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 by the instruments, performed a Latin mass. They sang from their 
 notes, and little darkies from twelve to sixteen years of age read 
 off the Avords with as much fluency as students in the Freshman 
 year. I could scarcely believe my eyes and ears, and in order to 
 try the accomplishments of the company I asked the maestro for 
 the Stabat Mater: he instantly replied, "Sim, Senhor," nained to 
 the musicians the page, waved his baton, and then the wailing and 
 touching strains of Stabat Mater sounded through the corridors of 
 Soldade. While at supper we were regaled by waltzes and stii-ring 
 marches, — among the latter " Laflxyette's Grand March," composed 
 in the United States. The maestro regretted that they had it not 
 in their power to play our three national airs; but I promised him 
 that when an opportunity should afford I would take pleasure in 
 adding to his musical library "Yankee Doodle," "Hail Columbia," 
 and the "Star-spangled Banner." One morning at three o'clock I 
 was awakened by a servant, who informed me that the orchestra 
 was about to play the Brazileiro in honor of Senhor Commenda- 
 dor's guests; and in a few minutes the band, with the addition of 
 big drum, little drum, and cymbals, startled the early birds by the 
 national anthem of Brazil, which was succeeded by "Lafayette's 
 Grand March." 
 
 Before our departure from Soldade, the hospitable proprietor 
 furnished us horses, and we sallied forth to roam over the immense 
 plantation. A portion of our party carried their guns, hoping to 
 meet with game in our ramble. We rode over hills used as pas- 
 ture-ground, which were literally dotted with the upright and 
 fallen columns that had been ere(Hed by the termites, or white ant. 
 These curious edifices and their still more curious architects have 
 always had a great attraction for the naturalist. The hillocks 
 are conical in their shape, but not with a broad base and tapering 
 point as those built b}' the termites of Africa. Exposure to the 
 sun has rendered them exceedingly hard, and doubtless many 
 that are seen upon the uplands of S. Paulo and Minas-Geraes are 
 more than a century old; for houses whose walls have been built 
 from the same earth are still in existence which Avere built by earh'- 
 settlers in the seventeenth century. Sometimes the termites' 
 dwelling is overturned by the slaves, the hollow scooped wider, and 
 is then used as a bake-oven to parch Indian corn. In m}' ride over 
 
Literary White Ants. 443 
 
 Soldade I saw a number of very large vultures, who, during the 
 rain, had taken refuge in the houses that had been vacated by the 
 white ant. 
 
 These insects do not, however, always dwell in columnar edifices 
 of three and six feet in height. I have seen, in some portions of 
 Brazil, the ground ploughed up, to the extent of one hundred 
 feet in circumference, by one nest of white ants. Again, they will 
 climb trees, carrying building materials with them, and erecting 
 a small archway (resembling 
 what caipenters call an "inch- 
 bead") over them for protection 
 against their sworn enemy, the 
 black or brown ant, and on the 
 loftiest branches they will con- 
 struct their nest. In cities they 
 are sometimes vcrj^ destructive : 
 hence every Brazilian lady keeps 
 her fine robes in tin boxes, and 
 each gentleman who pretends to 
 a library must often look at it 
 to see if the cupim, or white ant, has not become a most penetrating 
 reader of his volumes. My introduction to the cupim was in the 
 house of our former Consul, ex-Governor Kent. A box of books 
 sent out by the American Tract Society was placed in a lower 
 room, and the next morning it Avas announced to me that the 
 cupim had entered my property. I hastened to the room, and, 
 turning over the box, beheld a little black hole at the bottom, and 
 white, gelatinous-looking ants pouring out as though very much 
 disturbed in their occupation. I opened the box, and found that 
 a colony of cupim had eaten through the pine wood, and then 
 had pierced through "Baxter's Call," "Doddridge's Else and 
 Progress," until they had reached the place where Bunyan's 
 Pilgrim lay, when they were rudely deranged in their literary 
 pursuits. 
 
 On another occasion I saw a Brussels carpet, under which cupim 
 had insinuated themselves and had eaten out nearly all the canvas 
 before the proprietor made the sad discovery. 
 
 Dr. Kidder, at Campinas, witnessed the depredations of the white 
 
 WHITE ANTS IN 
 
444 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 ants in the faipa (clay-built) houses. They insinuate themselves 
 into the mud -walls, and destro}^ the entire side of a house by per- 
 forations. Anon they commence woriiing in the soil, and extend 
 their operations beneath the foundations of houses and under- 
 mine them. The people dig large i)its in various places, with the 
 intent of exterminating tribes of ants which have been discovered 
 on their march of destruction. 
 
 Mr. Southey states, on the authoi'ity of Manoel Felix, that some 
 of these insects, at one time, devoured the cloths of the altar in 
 the Convent of S.Antonio, at Maranham, and also brought up into 
 the church pieces of shrouds from the graves beneath its floor; 
 whereuj)on the friars prosecuted them according to due form of 
 ecclesiastical law. What the sentence was in this case, yve are 
 unable to learn. The historian informs us, however, that, having 
 been convicted in a similar suit at the Franciscan Convent at 
 Avignon, the ants were not only excommunicated from the Eoman 
 Catholic Apostolic Church, but were sentenced bj^ the friars "to 
 the pain of removal, within three days, to a place assigned them 
 
 in the centre of the 
 earth." The canon- 
 ical account grave- 
 ly adds that the ants 
 obeyed, and carried 
 away all their 
 young and all their 
 stores ! 
 
 The white and 
 other ants have, 
 however, enemies 
 far more tangible 
 than bulls of ex- 
 communication, in 
 the Myrmccophaga, 
 or the great ant- 
 eater, the Taman- 
 dua, and the "little 
 ant-eater," of which the last two have a prehensile tail. The great 
 ant-eater is a most curious animal, but well adapted to the purposes 
 
 
 GREAT ANT-EATER. 
 

The Great Ant-Eater. 445 
 
 for wliich it was designed by the Creator. Its short legs and long 
 claws (the latter doubled up when in motion) do not hinder it from 
 running at a good pace; and when the Indians wish to catch it 
 they make a pattering noise upon the leaves as if the rain were 
 falling, upon which the myrmecophaga cocks his huge bushy tail 
 over his body, and, standing perfectly still, soon falls a prey. In 
 the northern part of Minas-Geraes a naturalist once came sud- 
 denly upon the great ant-eater, and, knowing the harmless nature 
 of its mouth, seized it by the long snout, by which he tried to 
 hold it, when it immediately rose upon its hind-legs, and, clasping 
 him around the middle with its powerful fore-paws, completely 
 brought hitn to a stand. It was struck down with a club a 
 number of times, but soon recovered and ran off; and not until 
 a pistol-ball was lodged in its breast was the naturalist able to add 
 it to his collection. It measured six feet in length without the 
 tail, which, together with the long tufts of hair, measured full four 
 feet more. 
 
 When the great ant-bear sleeps, it lies on one side, rolls itself 
 up so that its snout rests on its breast, places all its feet together, 
 and covers itself with its bushy tail. When thus curled up, it is 
 80 exactly like a bundle of hay that any one might pass it care- 
 lessly, imagining it to be a loose heap of that substance. 
 
 When it walks or runs, the claws of the foi'e-feet are doubled 
 up, causing one side only of the foot to rest upon the ground. The 
 proper use of these powerful claws is to obtain the white ant. 
 When the ant-bear wishes a meal, he attacks one of the hai"d 
 hillocks ah'eady described, and with his huge fore-paws furiouslj^ 
 tears out a portion of the walls, and, thrusting in his long, slender 
 tongue, which is covered with a viscid saliva, and to which mj-riads 
 of ants adhere, he opens his little mouth and draws it in: then, 
 shutting his lips, he pushes out his tongue a second time, retain- 
 ing the ants in his mouth until the tongue has been completely 
 exserted, when he swallows them. Wallace says that the Indians 
 of the Upper Amazon positively assert, that the great ant-eater 
 sometimes kills the jaguar by tightly embracing the latter and 
 thrusting its enormous claws into the jaguar's sides. The 
 aborigines also " declare that these animals are all females, and 
 believe that the male is the 'curupira,' or demon of the forest. 
 
446 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The peculiar organization of the animal has j^robably led to this 
 error." 
 
 As we descended the hills of Soldade on our return to the planta- 
 tion-house, one of our party fired at two pacas which were feeding 
 near a little stream. Either the aim of the hunter was not good, 
 or the buckshot did not tell upon the hairy side of the animal, and 
 in a few moments he had swum the river and was hidden in the 
 thick copse of bushes and ferns. The paca, the capybara, and 
 agouti abound in Brazil, and are of the same family as marmots 
 
 THE PACA. 
 
 and 6ea\ ors. The paca attracts the attention of the hunter both 
 on account of the difficulty of its capture (as it takes the water 
 and swims and dives admirabl}^) and the esculent nature of 
 its flesh. It is about eighteen inches in height and two feet in 
 length, and its color is brown, spotted with white. The hinder 
 limbs (being considerably bent) are longer than the anterior 
 ones, and its claws are w^ell formed for digging and burrowing. 
 They are easily domesticated, and make lively pets, eating readily 
 out of the hand of those it is accustomed to, but hiding from 
 strangers. A friend bound to the United States had one on ship- 
 board, which was a great favorite, and bade fair to weather the 
 voyage and visit the shores of North America ; but either the 
 
The Musical Cart. 
 
 447 
 
 new paint, or some salt water that he drank in a storm, cat short 
 the thread of his existence, and poor paca was consigned to the 
 blue waves of the Atlantic. 
 
 After leaving our kind host, we journeyed toward Barbacena, over 
 roads that can be used for vehicles; but the only movable article 
 of that kind which we saw was the Eoman cart, unimproved since 
 the days of the Georgics. Indeed, all Eoman carriages were of the 
 same simple plan. The wheels did not turn on their axis, but axis 
 and wheels turned together. We could often hear music of a most 
 fortissime character, which they ground out as they moved slowly 
 over the plantations. I was informed that the Brazilians construct 
 these carts of a particular wood, having special reference to the 
 musical qualities, which, when put into action under a heavy 
 load and behind three yoke of cattle, resemble the concentrated 
 powwow of a thousand belligerent tomcats. On the day of somp 
 
 THE MUSICAL CART. 
 
 festa, I was travelling near the banks of the Parahiba, and miles 
 away I heard the ginnding of a cart. The distance had somewhat 
 mellowed its music, and, after a long ride, I came up with it, and 
 found a gay party of country Brazilians in their holiday attire 
 riding upon the old Eoman chariot, which was adorned with bed- 
 covers of a bright pattern. The unbonneted senhoras seemed as 
 much at home in their turn-out, and doubtless as proud of it, as the 
 
448 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 most- clashing lady of the Fifth Avenue in her cushioned coach 
 which sways softlj^ upon the most modern elastic springs. 
 
 The province of Minas-Geraes is^ the m os^importa nt of all the 
 inland divisions of the Enii^ire, owing to its mineral and vegetal 
 riches, its immense herds, its accessibility to market, and its 
 population. It contains eight hundred thousand inhabitants, and 
 yet is so extensive that there are within its area of one hundred, 
 and fifty thousand square miles many forests, — a perfect wilder- 
 ness, overrun with Indian tribes, and where the jaguar roams in 
 undisturbed independence. 
 
 Other portions are among the most imj)i'Oved and eligible parts 
 of the Empire. One writer has remarked, with great emphasis, 
 that, if there be one spot in the world which might be made to sur- 
 pass all othei-s, Minas is that favored spot. Its climate is mild and 
 healthful; its surface is elevated and undulating; its soil is fertile, 
 and capable of yielding the most valuable productions; its forests 
 abound in choice timber, balsams, drugs, and dye-woods. 
 
 But all these circumstances together have not given the pro- 
 vince so much celebrity as the single fact of its inexhaustible^ 
 mineral wealth. Its name signifies the general or universal mines, 
 and, accordingly, mines of gold, silver, copper, and iron are found 
 within its borders, besides quantities of precious stones. Sevei*al 
 of the most valuable gold-mines not far from Ouro Preto have been 
 wrought by an English mining company for the last twenty years. 
 This enterprise has been unquestionably a source of profit to its 
 stockholders, and has I'endered great service to the country gene- 
 rally, by introducing the most approved methods of mining and 
 by giving an impetus to Brazilian industry. This company con- 
 stantly emj)loys a large number of miners from Cornwall, and has 
 established quite an English village at its j)rincipal mine. 
 
 The agricultural capacities of the province are very great. It 
 yields coffee, sugar, tobacco, and cotton. It indeed produces some 
 coarse manufactures of cotton. Its soil yields Indian corn in great 
 profusion, and may be made to grow wheat. Upon its campinas, 
 or upland praii'ies, innumerable herds of cattle, and some flocks of 
 sheep, are jjastured. The milk of the cows is converted into a 
 species of soft cheese, known as the queijo de Minas. Immense 
 quantities of them may be seen at Rio de Janeiro, and from that 
 
■in 
 
 The History of Coffee. /44ft 
 
 port they are scattered along the coast, being very much esteemed 
 as an article of food. 
 
 The great staple, however, of Minas-Geraes, and of the whole 
 Empire of Bi*azil, is coifee. What a histor}" might be written of 
 the voyages, the naturalization, and the uses of this mefnber of the 
 Rabiacece family ! The coffee-tree is not, as is generally supposed, 
 a native of Arabia, but its home is Abyssinia, and particularly 
 that district called Kaffa, whence the name of the beverage-berry. 
 To this day the coffee-plant is found growing as far as the sources 
 of the White Nile. It was not taken to Arabia until the fifteenth 
 century, wdien, being cultivated extensively, with great success as 
 to quantity and quality, in the province or Kingdom of Yemen, and 
 embarked from Mocha, the coffee of that portion of the world ob- 
 tained a celebrity which it has never lost. When it was introduced 
 by the Orientals into Europe Ave know not; but as early as 1538 
 we find edicts against it, issued by the Mohammedan priests, on 
 the gi^ound that the faithful went more to the coffee-shops than to '-"('iT 
 the mosque. The earliest notice that we have of it in France is 
 in 1643, when a certain adventurer from the Levant established in 
 Paris a coffee-house, which did not succeed. In a few years, how- 
 ever, it became the viode among the aristocracy, through its 
 inauguration by Soliman Aga, the Ambassador of the Sublime 
 Porte at the Court of Louis XIV. Several of the high personages 
 of the time resisted its introduction, — among them the celebrated 
 Madame de Sevigne, who had declared that the popularity of coffee 
 would be merely ephemeral; and, in the intensity of her admira- 
 tion for Corneille, she predicted that Le Racine passerait covime le 
 cafe, (Eacine will be forgotten as soon as coffee,) both of which 
 predictions have jiroved rather detrimental to the prophetic reputa- 
 tion of the renowned lady letter-writer. Before the middle of the 
 seventeenth century it was in vogue in the principal capitals of 
 Europe. An English merchant from Constantinople was the first 
 to introduce it to the Londoners, and his wife, being a young and 
 pretty Greek, was a most attractive saleswoman. It is said that 
 the coffee-houses were greatly multiplied during the Protectorate, 
 and that Cromwell, wishing to protect the interest of the taverns, 
 and doubtless urged on by the publicans, caused them to be closed. 
 
 Previous to the eighteenth century, all the coffee consumed in 
 
 29 
 
m5>' 
 
 450 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Europe was brought from Arabia Felix via the Levant, and the 
 Pachas of Egypt and Syria took good care to increase their coffers 
 by exorbitant transit duties. This exaction was broken up by the 
 vessels of Holland, (first,) England, and France sailing around the 
 Cape of Good Hope to Mocha. In 1699, Yan Horn, first President 
 of the Dutch East Indies, obtained coffee-plants and had them 
 cultivated in Batavia, where they wonderfully prospered, and the 
 berries of Java obtained a reputation second only to those of ilocha. 
 One of the Batavian shrubs was transplanted to the Botanical 
 Gardens of Amsterdam in 1710, and by great care succeeded so well 
 that a shoot was sent to Louis XIV. and placed in the Jardin dea 
 Plautes. From this last plant, slips were confided to M. Isambert 
 to be taken to Martinique; but M. Isambei't died before the arrival 
 of the ship, and consequentl}^ the coffee-plants perished. In 1720, 
 Antoine de Jussieu, of the Royal Botanical Gardens, sent, by Cap- 
 tain Declieux, three more coffee-shrubs, also destined to Martinique. 
 The voyage was long, the vessel was short of water : two of the 
 plants died, but Captain Declieux shared Ms ration of water with 
 the cajier, and thus succeeded in introducing it into the West 
 Indies : that plant was the ancestor, it is said, of all the coffee- 
 plantations in America. 
 
 The honor of planting the first coffee-tree in Brazil belongs to 
 the Franciscan Friar Villaso, who in 1754 placed one in the 
 garden of the San Antonio Convent at Rio de Janeiro. It was not, 
 however, until after the Haytien insurrection that coffee became an 
 object of great cultivation and commerce in Brazil. In 1809, the 
 first cargo was sent to the United States, and all the coffee raised 
 in the Empire in that year scarcely amounted to 30,000 sacks, 
 while in the Brazilian financial year of 1855 there were exported 
 3,256,089 sacks, which brought into the country nearly $25,000,000. 
 The United States, during the financial year ending June 30, 1856, 
 imported, from all coffee-producing countries, 235,241,362 pounds of 
 the beverage-berry, 180,243,070 pounds (i.e. nearly three-fourths 
 of the whole) of which came from Brazil. The next highest 
 country on the list is Venezuela, which sent us 16,546,166 pounds; 
 and thirdly, Hayti, from which we imported about 13,500,000 
 pounds. The whole sum paid by the United States for coffee was 
 821,514,196, of which Brazil received no less than $16,091,714. 
 
Coffee-Culture. ^^^ 
 
 The great coffee-region, as has been mentioned, is on the banks 
 of the Eio Parahiba, and in the province of San Paulo; but every 
 year it is more widely cultivated, and a considerable quantity is 
 now grown in provinces farther northward. It can be planted by 
 burying the seeds or beri'ies, (which are double,) or by slips. The 
 trees are placed six or eight feet apart, and those plants which 
 have been taken from the nursery with balls of mould around their 
 roots will bear fruit in two years; those detached from the earth 
 will not produce until the third year, and the majority of such 
 shrubs die. In the province of S. Paulo, and the richest portions 
 of Minas-Geraes, one thousand trees will yield from 2560 to 3200 
 pounds, in Eio de Janeiro from 1600 to 2560. In some parts of S. 
 Paulo, one thousand trees have yielded 6400 pounds; but this is 
 extraordinary. In the province of Eio de Janeiro, trees are gene- 
 rally cut down every fifteen j^ears. There are some cafiers on the 
 plantation of Senator Vergueiro which are twenty-four years old, 
 and ai"e still bringing forth fruit. As a general rule, they are not 
 allowed to exceed twelve feet in height, so as to be in reach. When 
 the berry is ripe, it is about the size and color of a cherry, and 
 resembles it, or a large cranberry: of these berries a negro can 
 daily collect about thirty-two pounds. There are three gatherings 
 in the yeai', and the berries are spread out upon pavements or a 
 level portion of ground, (the terreno,') from whence they are taken 
 when diy and denuded of the hull by machinery, and afterward con- 
 veyed to market. Nothing is more beautiful than a coffee-planta- 
 tion in full and virgin bloom. The snowy blossoms all burst forth 
 simultaneously, and the extended fields seem almost in a night 
 to lay aside their robe of verdure, and to replace it by the most 
 delicate mantle of white, which exhales a fragrance not unworthy 
 of Eden. But the beauty is truly ephemeral, for the snow-white 
 flowers and the delightful odor pass away in twenty-four hours. 
 
 It is by toilsome journeys on mule-back that the coffee-sacks 
 from Minas-Geraes generally reach a market, and nothing so much 
 hinders the general prosperity of this province as its lack of good 
 roads and some feasible thoroughfare to a market. The province 
 has, of late years, expended considerable sums upon the construc- 
 tion of roads, but as yet it cannot send a single ton of its produce 
 to market upon wheels. The journey from Ouro Preto, the capital, 
 
452 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 to Eio de Janeiro, — a distance of about Uxo hundred miles, — is 
 performed on the backs of mules and horses only, and ordinarily 
 requires fifteen days. 
 
 As to education, it is but just to say that Minas-Geraes, accord- 
 ing to official statistics, takes the lead of all the provinces in this 
 praiseworthy enterprise. The provincial Government has made 
 large expenditures for the suj^port of schools, and the people seem 
 to have appreciated the benefit to he derived from them. 
 
 Should the long-talked-of enterprise of steam navigation upon 
 the Eio Doce and the Eio de S. Francisco ever prove successful, 
 the interests of Minas-Geraes vs^ould be greatly promoted. A most 
 thorough survey of the Eio de S. Francisco was made by Mr. Halfekl 
 
 As to the navigation of the Eio San Francisco, — a river as large 
 as the Volga, — a glance at the map will show its importance to 
 Minas and all other provinces watered by it and its tributaries. 
 The San Francisco is the largest river emptjdng into the Atlantic 
 between the Amazon and the Eio de la Plata. It rises in the pro- 
 vince of Minas, and waters the soil of Bahia, Pernambuco, Sergipe, 
 and Alagoas, in its course to the ocean. From the mouth of the 
 Eio das Velhas to the Falls of Paulo Affonso, not many leagues 
 east of Joazeira, a distance of seven hundred miles, its waters are 
 suitable for navigation, although, from the sparseness of population 
 on its banks, and the lack of enterprise, it is but little used for this 
 purpose. The Falls of Paulo Affonso are described by those who 
 have seen them as an immense cataract, over which the river 
 plunges, forming a spectacle of the utmost grandeur. The vapors 
 arising from the ravine may be seen at a great distance. They 
 resemble the smoke of a conflagration in the midst of the forest. 
 The river does not again find a tranquil bed until near its er$.- 
 bouchure, but for the space of seventy-five miles dashes with fury 
 over a succession of rapids and smaller catai-acts, which effectually 
 interrupt the passage of vessels and forbid the hope of any arti- 
 ficial connection between the upper and lower navigation. 
 
 But these difficulties are about to be overcome in another man- 
 ner: a railway from Pernambuco to Joazeira has already been 
 projected, through the enterprise of the Messrs. de Mornay, who 
 have obtained the concession of the first portion for its construc- 
 tion from the city of Pernambuco to Agoa Preta, on the river Una, 
 
Railroad to the S. Francisco. 
 
 453 
 
 a distance of seventy-four miles. From Bahia also another road 
 has been projected northward to Joazeira. Now, from the latter 
 point to the mouth of the Eio das Yelhas there is an uninterrupted 
 steamboat navigation for seven hundred miles, and numerous tri- 
 butary rivers increase the navigation to nearly two thousand miles. 
 It is therefore from the Barra das Yelhas that a railway will most 
 probably be made to Eio de Janeiro, about four hundred and thirty 
 miles in a straight line, — the whole comprising, by rail and by 
 river, as Mr. Borthwick in his excellent report says, "a grand in- 
 ternal communication between the capital and the most thriving 
 provinces;" and such is its necessity that it is only a question of 
 time. When such a system of internal improvements is completed, 
 no province will be more benefited than Minas-Geraes. The recent 
 investigations of Mr. Ilalfeld have been published by the government. 
 
 INHABITANTS OF THE FORESTS OF G0YA2. 
 
 Upon the west and north of Minas-Geraes is the large province 
 of Goyaz. Like most of the interior portions of Brazil, Goyaz was 
 discovered and overrun at an early day by the Paulistas, in their 
 search for mines and Indian slaves. It abounds in gold, diamonds, 
 and precious stones; but its remoteness from the sea-shore, and its 
 lack of roads, canals, and steamboats upon its navigable rivers, are 
 great obstacles to the development of its resources. 
 
 This province, bounded on the west by the Araguaia, may be 
 considered as occupj^ing the central portion of Brazil, and is not 
 generally mountainous, although its surface is elevated and un- 
 equal. Some tall virgin forests are seen upon the banks of its 
 rivers, in which most comical monkeys abound; but the larger 
 
454 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 part of the province is covered with that species of low and 
 stunted shrubbery vpbich prevails in large portions of the province 
 of Minas, and is designated by the terms catingas and carasqueiros. 
 Its soil yields the usual productions of Brazil, together with many 
 of the fruits of Southern Europe. Cultivation has progressed 
 further in Goyaz than in ]\Iato Grosso, though it is still extremely 
 backward. 
 
 The name of this province is derived from the Goyas, a tribe of 
 Indians formerly inhabiting its territory, but now nearly extinct. 
 Various other tribes still exist within its borders, several of which 
 cherish a deadly hatred to the people who have invaded their 
 domains and disturbed them in their native haunts. Settlements 
 are often laid waste by the hostile incursions of these Indians. 
 
 In Goyaz, as well as in other portions of the interior, the tra- 
 veller will find plenty of honey made by stingloss bees. I do not 
 know that it holds true in Brazil, as in North America, that the 
 bee precedes by a few miles the onwai'd march of civilization, — 
 advances as the Indian and the wild beast prepare to take their 
 departure, — and thus is the pioneer of a better state of things; but 
 it gives of its sweets to sustain and cheer the settler and the 
 voyageur in those vast and fertile solitudes. I sujjpose that the 
 bees of Brazil are indigenous, and not like the honey-bee of the 
 United States, which was unknown before the arrival of Eurojieans, 
 and to which the Indians — having no term for it in their language 
 — gave the name of "English flies." The greater portion of the 
 Brazilian bees possess, in their absence of weapons, a peculiarity 
 which many a stung sufferer would wish the Apis mellifica of North 
 America possessed. Some of these bees make sour honey, which 
 will compensate for sweet lemons.* 
 
 * Dr. Gardner, in his visit to Goyaz, was entertained at a little place not far from 
 Natividade, near the mountains which form the southwestern boundary of Piauhi. 
 "The owner of the house," he says, "returned from the woods, shortly after our 
 arrival, with a considerable quantity of wild honey, some of which he kindly gave 
 us, and we found it excellent : it was the product of one of the smaller bees so 
 numerous in this part of Brazil. This was the season in which the people go to 
 the woods in search of honey. It is so generally used, that, after leaving Duro, 
 [where Goyaz, Piauhi, and Pernambuco are contiguous,] a portion was presented 
 to us at almost every house where we stopped. These bees mostly belong to the 
 genus Melipona, Illiq., and I collected a great many, which, with some other zoo- 
 
GoYAZ — Stingless Bees. 455 
 
 In some portions of Goyaz society is very backward, but not 
 altogether in the state which existed at the time (1817) of St. 
 Ililaire's visit. There is a powerful class of the inhabitants called 
 vaqueiros, or cattle-proprietors. These men possess vast herds of 
 horned cattle, and their principal business is to mark, tend, and 
 fold them. They understand the use of the lasso, and also of the 
 long knife. However, their moral and intellectual condition is by 
 no means perfect. 
 
 logical specimens, were afterward lost in crossing a river. A list of them, with 
 their native names and a few observations, may not be uninteresting: — 
 
 "1. Jatahy. — Tbis is a very minute yellowish-colored species, being scarcely two lines long. The 
 honey, which is excellent, very much resembles that of the common hive-bee of Europe. 
 
 "2. Mulher branco. — About the same size as No.l, butof a whitish color: the honey is likewise good, 
 but a little acid. 
 
 "3. Tuhi. — A little black bee, smaller than a common house-fly: the honey is good, but has a pecu- 
 liar bitter flavor. 
 
 "4. Manoel cVAbreu. — About the size of the tubi, but of a yellowish color: its honey is good. 
 
 " 5. Atakira. — Black, and nearly the same size as the titbi, — the principal distinction between them 
 consisting in the kind of entrance to their hives : the tuhi makes it of wax, the atakira of clay. Its 
 honey is very good. 
 
 "6. Oarili. — Of a blackish color, and about the same size as the tubi: its honey is rather sour, and 
 not good. 
 
 "7. Tataira. — About the size of the tuhi, but with a yellow body and a black head: Its honey is 
 excellent. 
 
 " 8. Mumbilco. — Black, and larger than the tubi: the honey, after being kept about an hour, becomes 
 as sour as lemon-juice. 
 
 "9. Bejui. — Very like the tubi, biit smaller: its honey is excellent. 
 
 " 10. Tiuhd. — Of the size of a large house-fly, and of a grayish-black color : its honey is excellent. 
 
 "11. l}iird. — About the size of a house-fly, and of a yellowish color: its honey is acid. 
 
 " 12. Urussu. — About the size of a large humble-bee : the head is black and the body yellowish. It 
 produces good honey. 
 
 " 13. UrussH preto. — Entirely black, and upward of an inch in length : it likewise produces good 
 honey. 
 
 "14. Canidra. — Black, and about the same size as No. 13: its honey is too bitter to be eatable. It is 
 said to be a great tliief of the honey of other bees. 
 
 "15. Cliiipc. — About the size of No. 10, of a black color. It makes its hive of clay on branches of 
 trees, and is often of a very large size. Its honey is good. 
 
 "16. Urapua. — Very like No. 15, but always builds its hive rounder, flatter, and smaller. 
 
 " 17. EnchH. — This is a kind of wasp about the size of a house-fly : its head is black and the body 
 yellow. It builds its hive in the branches of trees : this is of a papery tissue about three feet in circum- 
 ference. Its honey is good. 
 
 " 18. JEiidiu pequeno. — Very similar to the last, but always makes a smaller hive : it also produces 
 good honey. 
 
 " The first eleven of these honey-bees construct their cells in the hollow trunks of trees, and the 
 others either in similar situations or beneath the ground. It is only the last three kinds that sting, all 
 the others being harmless. The only attempt I ever saw to domesticate these bees was by a Ccrnish 
 miner in the Gold District, who cut off those portions of the trunks of tlie trees which contained the 
 uest, and fastened them up under the eaves of his house. They seemed to thrive very well ; but when- 
 ever the honey was wanted, it was necessary to destroy the bees. Both the Indians and the other 
 inhabitants of the country are very expert in tracing these insects to the trees in which they hive. 
 They generally mix the honey — which is very fluid — with farinha before they eat it, and of the wax 
 they make a coarse kind of taper about a yard long, which serves in lieu of candles, and which the 
 country-people biing to the villages for sale. We found this very convenient, and always carried a suffi- 
 cient stock with us: not unfrequently we were obliged to manufacture them ourselves from the wax 
 obtained by my own men." 1865, M. Brunet, of Bahia, has found forty kinds of bees. 
 
456 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 But, in the general imi:»rovement which is gradually pervading 
 all Brazil, this province receives its share; and, when the railways 
 are completed to Joazcira, Goyaz will be easily brought within 
 a few hours of the great marts on the Atlantic seaboard. The 
 various affluents of the Tocantins and of the Parahiba do Sul 
 water this province, and afford it a certain species of communica- 
 tion with the adjacent provinces; and yet in the middle and 
 southern provinces I have met with travellers and mule-troops 
 taking the long and fatiguing land-route to Eio de Janeiro and 
 Santos. From Goyaz, the capital of the province, to Para, the 
 distance is more than one thousand miles, and this journey has 
 been jjerformed the whole way by water, with the exception of a 
 few leagues. This long river-route was accomjjlished as early as 
 1773, under the governorship of Jose d'Almeida de Yasconcellos 
 Sobral e Carvalho, and we of the North are filled with wonder 
 that this navigation does not become permanent and reliable. As 
 Brazilian steamers have been running regulai-ly upon the Amazon 
 since 1853, we may hope in time to see the waters of the Tocantins 
 and its tributaries furrowed by suitable vapores. The President of 
 this province, Sr. Magalhaes, descended the Araguaya to Para inl863. 
 
 Mato Grosso is an immense province, containing a greater area 
 than the original thirteen States of the Union. It is west of 
 Goyaz, and borders ujDon Bolivia, the Argentine Confederation, 
 and Paraguay. 
 
 Mato Grosso may be reached from Para by ascending either the 
 Tocantins, the Chingu, the Tapajos, or the Madeira Elvers. A 
 glance at the map would lead one to suppose that the passage of 
 the Madeira was not only the longest, but also that which would 
 be in every way the most difficult. It is, however, better known 
 than either of the others, and is the only one which has, to any 
 extent, been a commercial thoroughfare. 
 
 The distance in a right line from Para to Villa Bella, or Mato 
 Grosso, (one of the principal towns of the province,) is about one 
 thousand miles. Not less than two thousand five hundred miles 
 must be traversed in making the passage by water. Lieutenant 
 Gibbon, U.S.N., has given a very interesting account of his 
 descent (in 1852) of the Mamore Eiver, from the fort Principe de 
 Beira to the Madeira, and thence to Para; but the best detailed 
 
Lieutenant Page's Survey of the La Plata. 457 
 
 sketch of this long route and the numerous difficulties it opposes 
 to either the ti*aveller or the merchant is found in a memoir pub- 
 lished by the G-eographical and Historical Institute of Rio de 
 Janeiro. Brazil established mail-steamers to Cuyaba in 1856^ 
 
 For the distance of fifteen hundred miles up the Amazon and 
 the Madeira, to the Falls of St. Antonio, there is nothing in the 
 way but a powerful current. Much of the country through which 
 the last-named river flows is very unhealthy. From the Falls of 
 St. Antonio a succession of falls and rapids extend upwai'd more 
 than two hundred miles. Nearly all this distance it is necessary to 
 transport canoes and cargoes overland, by the most tedious and 
 difficult processes imaginable. Precipices must be climbed, roads 
 cut, and huts built from time to time as a temporary shelter 
 against the rains. In short, three or four months are necessarily 
 consumed on this part of the route. Once above this chain of 
 obstacles, there remain about seven hundred miles of good naviga- 
 tion on the Mamore and Guapore Rivers. Previous to steam-navi- 
 gation on the AiTiazon the entire voyage occupied ten months, 
 when made by traders carrying goods. Vast numbers of Indians 
 and negroes are required as oarsmen and bearers of burdens. It 
 is customary for several companies to associate together, and the 
 supplies which must necessarily be provided beforehand occasion 
 great expense and inconvenience. The downwai'd voyage, as a 
 matter of course, Avould be much more easily and quickly per- 
 formed. Notwithstanding the tedium and the toil of this long 
 and dreary passage, it is generally less dreaded than the overland 
 route to Rio de Janeiro. On the latter, an interminable succession 
 of mountains, the lack of any direct or suitable roads, the impos- 
 sibility of procuring provisions by the way, — at least for great 
 distances, — and the slow pace of loaded mules, are by no means 
 trifling difficulties in the way of either desj)atch or pleasure. 
 • But by the enterprise and abilit}^ of Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, 
 U.S.N., a new route by water to the capital of the Empire has 
 been opened to Brazil and the world. This gentleman, acting 
 under orders of the United States Government, sailed from Nor- 
 folk in 1853, in the U. S. steamer "Water- Witch," four hundred 
 tons' burd(m and nine feet draft. The object of this expedition 
 was the survey of the river La Plata and its tributaries, for the 
 
458 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 advancement of commerce and the promotion of science. Although 
 some obstacles presented themselves at Eio de Janeiro, the Impe- 
 rial Government finally granted its consent, and the Water-Witch 
 went on its mission of peace; and no one can read Lieutenant 
 Page's report to the late Secretary of the Navy (Mr. Dobbin) 
 without the deej)est interest, and the conviction that the surveys 
 and discoveries of the Commander and those under him are of the 
 greatest importance to North America and Europe, as well as to 
 Brazil and the South American States. 
 
 The investigations of Lieutenant Page on the Parana, Paraguay, 
 and also a number of their tributaries, show conclusively that these 
 rivers can become the richest channels of commerce. Of the Para- 
 guay he says : — 
 
 " This river differs from the Parana in several particulars. Its 
 period of rising is generally the reverse; it contains but few 
 islands, is confined between narrow limits, is more easy of navi- 
 gation, because less obstructed by shoals, and the course of its 
 channel is less variable; its width from one-eighth to three-fourths 
 of a mile, its velocity two miles per hour, and its rise is from 
 twelve to fifteen feet. In October it attains its maximum and in 
 February its minimum state. From its mouth to Assuncion, a dis- 
 tance of two hundred and fifty miles, there were found no less than 
 twenty feet of water when the river had fallen about two feet. 
 This depth of water remained unchanged for the distance of 
 several hundred miles above Assuncion, and the Water- Witch haa 
 ascended the Paraguay seven hundred miles above this place be- 
 fore she found less than twelve feet. At this time the river had 
 fallen several feet. 
 
 "The admirable adaptation of these rivers to steam-navigation 
 cannot but forcibly strike the most casual observer. 
 
 "There are no obstructions from fallen trees, neither shoals nor 
 rocks, to endanger navigation. At suitable points — in fact, at 
 every point in Paraguay particularly — an abundance of the best 
 wood may be procured immediately on the banks; and, when 
 populated, no difficulty will be found in obtaining a supply of it 
 prepared for immediate use. By experiment carefully made, 
 one cord of the Paraguay wood was ascertained to be equal, in 
 the production of steam, to a ton of the best anthracite coal. 
 
Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain. 459 
 
 "The left bank of the river, up to the distance of four hundred 
 and fifty miles from Assuncion, is populated, but more and more 
 sparsely as the northern frontier is approached. Between the most 
 northern Paraguayan and the most southern Brazilian settlements — 
 a distance of two hundred and fifty miles — there is no habitation of 
 civilized man. Various tribes of Indians were met with at dif- 
 ferent points, with some of whom we 'held a talli,' and parted on 
 such friendly terms, because of the numerous presents we made 
 them in trinkets and tobacco, that they became somewhat trouble- 
 some, following us along the banks on horseback, desirous that we 
 should repeat the visit on shore." 
 
 This was the first steamer that ever ploughed the upper waters 
 of the Paraguay. The arrival of the "Water-Witch at Coimbra 
 (Brazil) was hailed with the liveliest demonstrations of joy, and 
 Lieutenant Page was received by the authorities with the most 
 marked attention. His command, owing to the proper permission 
 from the Imperial Government arriving too late, did not proceed 
 higher than Corumba. Lieutenant Page is, however, of the oj)inion 
 that Cuiba, in Mato Grosso, may be reached by small steamers. It 
 is hoped that this energetic and intelligent officer may yet prose- 
 cute his surveys for the benefit of the world. 
 
 It is interesting to reflect that while the American navy has 
 been to a great extent, for nearly fifty years, exempt from the work 
 of war, her gallant ofiicers have won imperishable laurels in the 
 nobler pui'suits of scientific investigation. The names of Bache, 
 Lieut. Strain, Kane, Gillis, Page, and the scores who have been 
 employed on coast-surve3-s, have done more to benefit their country 
 and mankind than all the naval battles of the nineteenth century. 
 Since these pages were commenced, three whose names are men- 
 tioned above have slept the "last sleep." When scientific attain- 
 ments, self-sacrifice, and suffering shall be connected together, the 
 hero of the Arctic regions and the hero of the Isthmus of Darien 
 will not be forgotten by the thousands who shall come after us. 
 To both may be applied the language of Mr. George Eipley, of New 
 York, in regard to Kane: — "The admirable qualities which they 
 displayed in the discharge of their official duties are a sui-e pledge 
 of permanent fame. Courage, wisdom, fertility of resource, power 
 of endurance, and devotion to an idea, are stamped upon their 
 
460 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 intrepid career." As Dr. Kane, though bent on an errand of mercy, 
 was the first American to attempt "to lift the dead veil of mystery 
 which hangs over the Arctic regions," so Lieutenant Strain, for the 
 benefit of mankind, was the first American to explore the wonder- 
 ful rivers of that region of fabulous fertility in the South. 
 
 ^Vbile a midshipman, he obtained leave to enter the interior of 
 Brazil, and, accompanied by a small party of brave spirits, (among 
 whom was Dr. Eeinhart,) he exploi-ed the province of San Paulo, 
 tracing the rivers Tiete and Paranai:)anema nearly to their conflu- 
 ence with the Parana. The dangers and hardships he encountered 
 in this expedition were only inferior to those of the more recent 
 and better-known expedition to the Isthmus of Darien. His ser- 
 vices as an explorer were suitably acknowledged by the Imperial 
 Government; and in Brazil I have heard high encomiums on Lieu- 
 tenant Strain, and in his death science has lost a noble son.* 
 
 It would be an interesting expedition, and great good would be 
 accomplished, if the Government of Brazil would consent to send 
 out, with England, France, and the United States, a joint scientific 
 commission, to explore thoroughly the whole district of Central 
 Brazil, from Bolivia to Bahia, with particular reference to the 
 navigability of the waters, that here interlace, of those vast rivers 
 which irrigate such a wide extent of territory. 
 
 In the northern part of this province are countless hosts of 
 monkeys, mostly of the howling kind. M. de Castelnau, on the 
 
 * The cnreer of this ofiBcer after leaving Brazil may be briefly stated : — From 
 South America he went to California. "In 1849, returning from the Pacific, he 
 crossed the continent from Valparaiso to Buenos Ayres, of which he published a 
 narrative entitled ' The Cordillera and Pampa.' Subsequently, he was attached to 
 the Mexican Boundary-Commission. An African cruise followed his return from 
 Mexico, and not long after he led the fatal expedition across the Isthmus of Darien, 
 which cost so many valuable lives, and undermined the health, and has now caused 
 the death, of the leader. Rallying from the effects of the hardships of that adven- 
 ture, he accompanied Lieutenant Berryman in the voyage of the steamer Arctic to 
 sound the course of the Atlantic telegraph. This was his last public service. 
 But his energetic spirit could not brook inaction, and at the time of his death he 
 was on his way to join the same ship from which he had been detached three years 
 before to examine the Darien route ; and on the same spot where he won so high a 
 name among American explorers he yielded up his life." — Providence (R.I.) Journal 
 
A Race of Indians "avith Tails." 
 
 461 
 
 head-waters of the Amazon, found the written authentic account 
 of a padre of very early times, who affirmed that there was here 
 a race of Indians which 
 he had seen, who were 
 dwarfish in size and had 
 tails. He says tliat one 
 was brought to him whose 
 caudal extremity was 
 "the thickness of a finger, 
 and half a palm long, and 
 covered with a . smooth 
 and naked skin;" and 
 also he further sets his 
 seal to the fact that the 
 Indian cut his own tail 
 once a month, as he did 
 not like to have it too 
 long. Was not the padre's 
 dwarf the Brachyurus cal- 
 vus, with the short, ball- 
 like tail, discovered a few 
 years ago in this region 
 by Mr. Deville ? 
 
 Cuiaba, the capital of 
 Ma to G rosso, has a 
 healthy location upon a 
 river of the same name. 
 
 Although called a city, it is, in fact, but a village. Its houses are 
 nearly all built of taipa, with floors of hardened clay or bricK. 
 The region immediately surrounding it is said to be so abundant 
 in gold, that some grains of it may be found wherever the earth 
 is excavated. It is about one hundred .miles from the diamond- 
 district. 
 
 Its soil is fertile, but it almost universally lacks cultivation. In 
 Bome parts particular attention is given to grazing; but, gene- 
 rally speaking, the inhabitants make no exertions to produce any 
 thing that is not requisite for their own consumption. Indeed, 
 they do not always reach the limit of their own necessities. Iho 
 
 THE BALD-HEADED BRACHYURUS. 
 
462 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 province abounds in gold and diamonds; but, owing to the lack 
 of skill employed in searching for them, the products of either, for 
 latter years, have been very small. What is gained by the miners 
 and the garimpeiros, as the diamond-seekers are called, together 
 with a certain quantity of ipecacuanha, constitute the M'hole 
 amount of exports from the province. These articles are gene- 
 rally sent on mule-back to Eio de Janeiro, where manufactured 
 goods in return are purchased and sent back over the tedious land- 
 route. 
 
 The first printing-press ever seen in Mato Grosso was procured 
 at the expense of the Government in 1838. In matters of educa- 
 tion this 2:)rovince is exceedingly backward. The schools are not 
 only few in number, but great inconveniences are suffered from the 
 lack of books, paper, and nearly every other material essential to 
 elementary education. In addition to this low and unpromising 
 state of education, that of religion appears, from the reports of 
 successive presidents of the j^rovince, to be still worse. There are 
 but few churches in existence: not more than half of these are 
 supplied with priests; and all, without great expenses in repairing, 
 will ere long be in ruins. 
 
 Goyaz and Mato Grosso may be ranked together in the relation 
 they bear to the other portions of the Empire and of the world. 
 Both were originally settled by gold-hunters. The lure of treasure 
 led adventurers to bury themselves in the deep recesses of these 
 interminable forests. Their seai'ch was successful. Their most 
 eager avarice was satiated. But agriculture was neglected; peo- 
 ple could not eat gold, and in many instances those who were able 
 to count their treasure by arrobas were in the greatest want of the 
 necessities of life. The ground was not cultivated; nothing was 
 exported; no flourishing towns were built. The gold-fever, abating, 
 left society in a state so enfeebled that we see its effects even to- 
 day. Gold and diamonds hindered the progress of Goyaz and 
 Mato Grosso more than their dense forests and great distance 
 from the sea-shore. It is instructive to look at the widely-different 
 results of the mineral and vegetable riches of the Empire. After 
 Mexico and Peru, (before the discovery of Australian and Califor- 
 nian treasure,) Brazil furnished the largest quantum of hard cur- 
 rency to the commercial world. Here the diamond, the ruby, the 
 
Difference in Results from Diamonds and Coffee. 463 
 
 sapphire, the topaz, and the rainbow-tinted opal sparkle in their 
 native sj)lendor. And yet so much greater are the riches of the 
 agi-icultural productions of the Empire, that the annual sum re- 
 ceived for the single article of coffee surpasses the results of eighty 
 years' yield of the diamond-mines. From 1740 to 1822, (the era 
 of independence,) a i)eriod which was the most prosperous in 
 diamond-mining, the number of carats obtained were two hundred 
 and thirty-two thousand, worth not quite three and a half millions 
 pounds sterling. The exports of coffee from Eio alone during the 
 year 1851 amounted to £4,756,794! And when we add the sums 
 obtained for the other great staples of sugar, cotton, seringa, 
 (or the India rubber,) dye-woods, and the productions of the im- 
 mense herds of the South, we have, it is true, a better idea of the 
 sources of wealth in Brazil, but only a faint conception of the vast 
 resources of this fertile Empire. 
 
 Having thus glanced at- all the interior provinces except 
 Amazonas, we next turn our attention to the maritime provinces 
 north of Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 Note for 1S66. — The war with Paraguay (which was a piece of unparalleled 
 barbarity on the part of President Lopez, son of the old Dictator) brought untold 
 misery upon the thinly-settled population. Until November, 1864, steamers plied 
 up to Cuyaba, and the products of the country, chiefly ipecacuanha, descended the 
 river and were thus brought to market. All commerce, though never considerable, 
 has been checked. Probably the largest purchaser in the world of ipecacuanha 
 and of Brazilian sarsaparilla is the well-known Dr. J. C. Ayer, of Lowell, Massa- 
 chusetts, whose remedies are found over the whole world. In ISGO, Brazilian 
 officials descended the rivers Araguaya and Tocantins to Para in the old style, 
 (see page 456.) Though there are many difficulties, these great rivers may yet 
 be made to serve as highways from an interior almost closed to the outer world. 
 
CFAPTEE XXIY. 
 
 CAPE FRIO — ■WRECK OF THE FRIGATE THETIS CAMPOS — ESPIRITO SANTO ABORI- 
 GINES ORIGIN OF INDIAN CIVILIZATION THE PALM-TREE AND ITS USES 
 
 THE TDPI-GUARANI — THE LINGOA GERAL FEROCITY OF THE AYMORES THE 
 
 CITY OF BAHIA PORTERS — CADEIRAS HISTORY OF BAHIA CARAMURU ATTACK 
 
 OF THE HOLLANDERS MEASURES TAKEN BY SPAIN THE CITY BETAKEN THE 
 
 DUTCH IN BRAZIL SLAVE-TRADE SOCIABILITY OF BAHIA MR. GILLMER, AME- 
 RICAN CONSUL THE HUMMING-BIRD WHALE-FISHERY — AMERICAN CEMETERY 
 
 HENRY MARTYN VISIT TO MONTSERRAT VIEW OF THE CITY THE EMPEROR's 
 
 BIRTHDAY MEDICAL SCHOOL PUBLIC LIBRARY IMAGE-FACTORY THE WON- 
 DERFUL IMAGE OF ST. ANTHONY — NO MIRACLE — ST. ANTHONY A COLONEL 
 
 VISIT TO VALEN9A DARING NAVIGATION IN PURIS NATURALIBUS — THE FAC- 
 TORY AND COLONEL CARSON AMERICAN MACHINERY SKILFUL NEGROES 
 
 RETURN HOME — COMMERCE WITH THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 To reach the Brazilian North by sea has been no difficult task 
 since 1839. At Eio de Janeiro, scarcely three days elapse unless 
 some steamer, either foreign or nngional, embarks for the city of 
 Bahia. Entering one of these, in a few hours we will be abreast 
 of Cape Frio, which huge oval mass of granite marks the spot 
 where the line of coast turns to the north and forms nearly a 
 right angle. 
 
 Some years ago, the English frigate Thetis, bound homeward at 
 the expiration of a cruise in the Pacific, was wrecked upon Cape 
 Frio. This vessel, on leaving the harbor of Eio, where she had 
 touched, encountered foul weather. After strug2;lino: a^-ainst it 
 till it was presumed she had cleared the coast, she bore aAvay on 
 her course. The darkness of the night was impenetrable, and, the 
 wind being strong, the ship was running eight or ten knots an 
 hour, when, without the slightest warning or apprehension of 
 danger by any one on board, she dashed upon this rocky bulwark. 
 The officers and crew, in the shock and consternation of the mo- 
 ment, had barely time to transfer themselves to contiguous por- 
 464 
 
EspiRiTO Santo. 465 
 
 tions of the promoBtory, before the shivered frigate went to the 
 bottom. Most of those on board were saved by di-awing them- 
 selves up, on shelves of the rock, out of the reach of the waves, 
 where, in the most constrained position, they were forced to remain 
 throughout the dismal night. 
 
 A good light-house has since been constructed upon Cape Frio, 
 which at the present time renders the approach of the navigator 
 nearly as safe by night as it is by day. I 
 
 We pass the Parahiba Eiver, twenty miles from the mouth of 1 
 which is the flourishing town of Campos, formerly called S. ' 
 Salvador. The vast region surrounding this town is known as the 
 Campos dos Goyatakazes, or plains of the Goyatakaz Indians, the 
 aboriginal inhabitants. It is a rich tract of country, and has, for 
 beauty, been compared to the Elysian fields. Campos is situated 
 on the western bank of the river. The town has regular and well- 
 paved streets, with some fine houses. Its commerce is extensive, 
 employing a vast number of coasting-smacks to export its sugar, 
 its rum, its coffee, and its rice. The sugars of Campos are said by 
 some to be the best in Brazil. 
 
 Not many leagues beyond the disemboguement of the Parahiba 
 we sail along the coast of Espirito Santo. This province embraces 
 the old captaincy of the same name, and part of that of Porto 
 Seguro. Although this portion of the coast was that discovered 
 by Cabral and settled by the first Donataries, yet it is still but 
 thinly inhabited, and has not made the improvements that may bo 
 found in most other parts. Its soil is fertile, and especially adapted 
 to the cultivation of sugarcane, together with most of the inter- 
 tropical productions. Its forests furnish precious woods and useful 
 drugs, and its waters abound with valuable fish. But vast regions 
 of its territory are only roamed by savage tribes, who still make 
 occasional plundering incursions upon the settlements. Surveys 
 have recently been instituted upon the rivers Doce and S. Ma- 
 theus, and it is thought practicable to render those streams navi- 
 gable to small steamers. Organized companies have had these 
 enterprises in charge, and propose to open new and direct means 
 of transport between the coast and the province of Minas-Geraes. 
 Should this undertaking succeed, it will be of great imj^ortance, 
 
 not only to the provinces of Espirito Santo and j\Iinas-Geraes, but 
 
 30 
 
466 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 also to the city of Babia, to which large quantities of the produce 
 exported would be directly conveyed. 
 
 The distance from Eio de Janeiro to Babia is about eight hundred 
 miles. There is no large city or flourishing port on the coast, nor 
 is there a single direct or beaten road through the interior. The 
 onh' author who has ever travelled over this portion of Brazil by 
 land is Prince Maximilian of Neuwied. Few naturalists have 
 exhibited more enthusiasm, and few travellers more persevering 
 industry-, than did His Highness in passing through these wild and 
 uncultivated regions. It is difficult to form an idea of the impedi- 
 ments, annoyances, and dangers which he had to surmount. But 
 Buch was the interest and cheerfulness with which the Prince per- 
 formed his journeys, that he described his condition b}^ saying, 
 "Although scratched and maimed by thorns, soaked by the rains, 
 exhausted by incessant pei'spiration caused by the heat, never- 
 theless the traveller is transported in view of the magnificent 
 vegetation." His travels in Brazil were accomplished between the 
 years 1815 and 1818, and the rich and interesting work in which 
 he o-ave their results to the world furnishes up to the present day 
 the best account we have of the scener}^ and of the people on this 
 section of the coast. No pai-t of Brazil has been less agitated by 
 the revolutions of the last half-century. Under the present regime, 
 there has been a gradual improvement; yet, up to 1839, the whole 
 province of Espirito Santo contained not a single printing-press, 
 and many of its churches, built with great expense by the earl}' 
 settlers, are going to decay. But when we look at recent educa- 
 tional statistics, we find that there is progress even in this quiet 
 corner of the world. In 1839, there were but seven primary 
 schools in the province; but in 1855, the Minister of the Empire 
 reports twenty-nine sustained by the Imperial fund, to say nothing 
 of those conducted by provincial and private enterprise. Various 
 internal improvements are contemplated; and we hope the day is 
 not far distant when Espirito Santo shall have her fertile soil, 
 which is so well adapted to the sugar and coffee plants, teeming 
 ■ with cultivation. 
 
 Frequent allusion has been made to the aboriginal tribes of Brazil. 
 Their histoiy would fill many volumes. The same interest which 
 attaches to the Incas and their subjects, to the Montezumas and 
 
Origin of Indian Civilization. 467 
 
 the millions over whom they lorded it, does not beloi.g to the tribes 
 or nations which inhabited Brazil at its discover;}. The few re- 
 mains of antiquity which have been reported in the Xorth are doubt- 
 less monuments of the Empire of the Incas east of the Andes. 
 
 That erudite and accurate student of Indian antiquities, Mr. 
 Schoolcraft, has, I think, clearly shown that the germ of Mexican 
 civilization was the cultivation of the maize, which, to produce in 
 quantities and in perfection, requires, at least for some months, 
 continued labor. Thus the ancient Mexicans, if they were even 
 for a short time nomadic, would be recalled to the spot whence 
 they drew their principal sustenance. The want of rain cither 
 called forth eflPorts for artificial irrigation, or for the construction 
 of floating gardens on the lakes which gem the great Valle}' of 
 Azteca. These could not be well abandoned without the greatest 
 sacrifice, and thus there grew up insensibly a community, — a settle- 
 ment. If the early history of the great Peruvian nation, which 
 numbered more than three times the population of Mexico, could 
 be known, we should doubtless find that their civilization originated 
 in endeavoring to procure food by the cultivation of the rainless 
 and arid Pacific sea-coast, by resorting to artificial irrigation. 
 When strength of mind and skill were developed, they could push 
 their way into a more favored region, driving back other tribes. 
 Thus, in time, they extended their conquests, their comparative 
 civilization, and their Sabean religion over a territor^^ comprising 
 the country from the Pacific coast on the west to the eastern slope 
 of the Andes, and from the equator to Valparaiso. 
 
 The tribes of Brazil, however, from the natural irrigation, and 
 from the spontaneous products of the forests and plains, had no 
 motives to call forth that mental effort for existence which often 
 results in civilization. They were not settled; neither were they 
 habitually and widely nomadic, each tribe having certain limits, 
 where it remained until driven out by a superior force. The 
 plantain, the banana, the cashew, the yam, — above all, the man- 
 dioca, and the more than two hundred species of palms, — furnished 
 them food, drink, and raiment. The little cultivation to which' 
 they attended was that of the mandioca-root, which, when planted 
 in burned ground, thrives among the stumps and roots of trees 
 without further husbandry. 
 
468 
 
 Brazil and the iiRAziLiAxs. 
 
 But the most generous gift (to 
 
 which alhision has been made) thai 
 
 bountiful Providence gave Brazil is 
 
 the palm-tree. The traveller 
 
 in the interior provinces and 
 
 sv upon the sea-coast away from 
 
 % the cities is struck by the 
 very great application of this "Prince 
 of the Vegetable Kingdom" to the 
 wants of man. And if the prince 
 plays so important a part in the do- 
 naestic economy of Europeans and 
 their descendants, his highness was 
 and is servant for genei'al house and 
 field work among the aborigines of 
 Brazil. To this day it furnishes the 
 Amazonian Indians house, raiment, 
 food, drink, salt, fishing-tackle, hunt- 
 8'^y ing-implements, and musical instruments, and 
 almost every necessary of life except flesh. Take 
 tiie hut of an Uaupe Indian on one of the affluents 
 of the Kio Negro. The rafters are formed by 
 the straight and uniform palm called Leopoldina 
 pulchra; the roof is composed of the 
 leaves of the Carana palm; the doors 
 and framework of the split stems of 
 the Iriartea exhoriza. The wide 
 bark which grows beneath 
 the fruit of another species is 
 sometimes used as an apron. 
 The Indian's hammock, his 
 bow-strings, and his fishing- 
 lines are woven and twisted 
 from the fibrous portions of 
 difterent palms. The comb 
 with which the males of some 
 of the tribes adorn their 
 heads is made from the hard 
 
 v:>\^ 
 
 JAR'.-ASSU PALM (LEOPOLDINA MAJOR.) 
 
The Brazilian Savages Cannibals. 4:fi9 
 
 wood of a palm; and the fish-hooks are made from the spines of 
 the same tree. The Indian makes, from the fibrous spathes of the 
 Manicaria saccifera, caps for his head, or cloth in which he wraps 
 his most treasured feather-ornaments. From eight species he can 
 obtain intoxicating liquor; from many more (not including the 
 cocoanut-palin, found on the sea-coast) he receives oil and a harvest 
 of fruit; and from one (the Jard assu) he procures, by burning the 
 large clusters of small nuts, a substitute for salt. From another he 
 forms a cylinder for squeezing the mandioca-pulp, because it resists 
 for a long time the action of the poisonous juice. The great woody 
 spathes of the Maximiliana regia are "used by hunters to cook meat 
 in, as, with water in them, they stand the fire well:" (Wallace.) 
 These spathes are also employed for carrying earth, and sometimes 
 for cradles. Arrows are made from the spinous processes of the 
 Patawd, and lances and heavy harpoons are made from the Iriatea 
 ventricosa; the long blowpipe through which the Indian sends the 
 poisoned arrow that brings down the bright birds, the fearless 
 peccari, and even the thick-skinned tapii*, is furnished by the 
 Setigera palm: the great, bassoon-like -musical instrumeijts used in 
 the "devil-worship" of the Uaupes are also made from the stems 
 of palm-trees 
 
 One would have supposed that a people thus supplied with 
 almost every necessity of life would have exhibited gentleness 
 and docility, and would have been among the most peaceful of the 
 denizens of the New World. Ou the contrary, the aborigines of 
 Brazil were a warlike, ferocious people, unskilled in the usual arts 
 of peace, and were of the most vengeful and bloody character. 
 Many of these tribes were cannibals: some ate their enemies in 
 grand ceremonial; others made war for the purpose of obtaining 
 human food; and others still devoured their relatives and friends 
 as a mark of honor and distinguished consideration. At this day, 
 in the remote interior, on the upper waters of the Amazon, there 
 exist, in as wild a state as when South America was first dis- 
 covered, tribes whose anthropophagous propensities are as fully 
 indulged as if the European had never placed foot upon the conti- 
 nent. We would feel inclined to discredit the accounts of all the 
 early navigators who touched upon the Brazilian coasts in regard 
 to the cannibalism of the natives, were it not that it is fully con- 
 
470 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 firmed at the present day : forty days' journey (as travellers travel) 
 from the mouth of the Amazon up the river Purus, arc found the 
 Catauixis, and near them otlicr tribes of Indians, who, Mr. Wallace 
 (a thorough and truthful explorer) says, "are cannibals, killing 
 and eatin"- Indians of other tribes, and they preserve the flesh 
 thus obtained smoked and dried." 
 
 So far as can be ascertained, there were moi-e than one hundred 
 difl'erent tribes inhabiting Brazil at the discovery of South America. 
 
 The large majority of these belonged 
 to one race, and were called, upon 
 the sea-coast, Tupi Tupinaki, Tupi- 
 nambi, or something similar, in the 
 way of a compound of the root Tup. 
 In the South, uj)on the head-w^atera 
 of the La Plata, they were called 
 Guaraui. They were most curiously 
 situated, dwelling in a narrow belt 
 ujDon the whole sea-coast from the 
 mouth of the Amazon down to the 
 present province of S. Paulo. Here 
 they extended inland to the Para- 
 guay, and up its waters and across 
 the interlacings of the La Platan and Amazonian sources, where, it 
 is surmised, they had their origin : thence they were found upon 
 the ]\[armora, the Madeira, the Tapajoz, and other rivers, down the 
 Amazon to the great island of Marajo. This people spoke in effect 
 the same language, called by Dr. Latham, in his treatise on the 
 languages of the Amazon, the Tupi-Guarani. This learned philolo- 
 gist says that as far northward as the equator and as far south as 
 Buenos Ayres the Tupi-Guarani language was to be found. Now, 
 there were, surrounded by this widely-spread race, numerous tribes 
 of other aborigines, who spoke a class of languages totally distinct 
 and different. These different tribes, it was ascertained b}- the 
 Jesuits and traders, comjirehended, to a certain extent, the Tupi- 
 Guarani tongue, though their own languages were so unlike that 
 they scared}^ had one word in common. The priests, the traders, 
 and the slave-hunters pushed their way through these tribes, and 
 each, in their widely-different mission, aided in the formation of a 
 
 BOTACUDO DANDY. 
 
 i 
 
The Ferocity of the Aymores. 
 
 471 
 
 NATIVE PLUG-UGLY. 
 
 remarkable language, called the Lingoa Geral or Lingoa Franca, 
 which was the common vehicle of communicatiou, from the Orinoco 
 to the La Plata, among people whose lan- 
 guages remain unknown. The trader, 
 the scientific explorer, and the Brazilian 
 Government official, at this day have 
 their intercourse with the savages of 
 the Japura, the Parana, the Chingu, 
 and the Araguaia, hy the Lingoa Geral. 
 The basis of this, as already observed, is 
 the Guarani or Tupi-Guarani tongue.* 
 
 These surrounded tribes, so to speak, 
 occasionally, though rarel}', succeeded 
 in reaching the coast. Thus, the Ay- 
 mores — a cannibal tribe who acquired 
 such a teri'ible celebrity — made their 
 appearance ujDon the sea-shoi-e a long time after the discovery of 
 Brazil. The coast-tribes regarded them with horror, and con- 
 sidered them as irrational beings, 
 ignorant of the construction of 
 huts and of the art of adorning 
 their persons with the rich plumage 
 of the })arrot and the gay -painted 
 macaw. They had a still more 
 distinctive characteristic, that con- 
 sisting in an unconquerable fear of 
 water, which impeded them from 
 following their enemies when they 
 swam a river or plunged into a 
 lake. They assaulted Porto Seguro 
 and the Ilheos with such ferocity 
 that Bellegarde says that labor 
 ceased on all the plantations for want of workmen who had gone 
 to give them battle. They were afterward routed and nearly all 
 
 LIP-ORNAMENT OF THE SOUTH 
 AMERICAN INDIAN. 
 
 * Dr. Latham says, "With two exceptions, the distribution of the numerous dia- 
 lects and subdialects of the Tupi-Guarani tongue is the most remarkable in the 
 world, — the exceptions being the Malay and the Athabascan tongues." 
 
472 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 dispersed, and there onlj remain as their descendants the Bota> 
 cudos, a few hundred of whom still — now peacefully — wander upon 
 the banks of the rivers Doce and Bellemonte. These Indians, 
 like many of the savages of South America, wear the most absurd 
 ornaments of light wood, (the aloe,) which they at pleasure insert 
 and take out from slits in their ears and lips. 
 
 But the question naturally arises. What have become of the 
 numerous tribes once inhabiting the sea-coast and those provinces 
 where now a civilized population most abound ? Where are the 
 Tupi-Guarani ? Many wandered to remote parts of the Empire ; 
 
 fr^^ik 
 
 
 A BOTACUDO FAMILY ON THE MARCH. 
 
 European diseases and vices, as well as war and the march of 
 civilization, swept them from their places. The Guarani of South 
 Brazil, under the Jesuits, reached a certain degree of advance- 
 ment; but the inhuman Portuguese slave-hunter, who pushed his 
 way as far as Bolivia, with ruthless hands broke up the missions 
 and led them into captivity, and they soon melted away before 
 cruel taskmasters. Of the Tupinambas and the Tamoyos, who 
 dwelt in the present provinces of Eio de Janeiro and Minas- 
 (leraes, the former were exterminated, and the latter were so 
 constantly harassed and defeated in war by the colonists, that, 
 though for a long time wanting unanimity, they finally were per- 
 suaded by the eloquence of an influential and eminent chief (Jappy 
 A.8SU, — a second Orgetorix) to emigrate to the distant North, — 
 
Resemblance of the Aborigines to the Dtaks. 473 
 
 then more than three thousand miles from their former home, — 
 and they settled upon the southern bank of the Amazon, from 
 its confluence with the Madeira, at various points, down to the 
 island of Marajo. Their descendants are found this day in tho 
 (Country between the Tapajoz and the Madeira, among the lakes 
 and channels of the great island of the Tupinambas. They aro 
 now called the Mandrucus, — the naost 
 warlike Indians of South America. They 
 live in villages, in each of which is a for- 
 tress Avhere all the men sleep at night. 
 This building is adorned within by the 
 dried heads of their enemies decked 
 with feathers. These ghastly orna- 
 ments have the features and hair very 
 well preserved. 
 
 The existing tribes, in their manners 
 and cust(mis, are closely allied to our 
 North American Indians, with this ex- 
 ception : — that the savages south of the 
 equator have all been found to be ex- 
 <;eedingly deficient in any religious idea. 
 None of them, when first visited, seemed 
 to have the faintest conception of the 
 
 Great Spirit which so strikingly characterized the simple theo- 
 logy of the aborigines of the Mississipj)i and the St. Lawrence. 
 Attempts to civilize them have proved abortive except Avhen they 
 are held in a state of pupilage, as they were by the Jesuits, or 
 under the rigid discipline of the Brazilian arm}'. 
 
 The curious ethnologist will find in the tribes of the Upper 
 Amazonian waters the red man who has been untouched by 
 civilization. Mr. Wallace — who roamed for some years among 
 these sons of the wilderness — has given us much information in 
 regard to them, and says that one of the singular facts connected 
 with these Indians is the resemblance which exists between some of 
 their customs and those of nations most remote from them. Thus, 
 the gravatdna or blowpipe reappears in the sumpitan of Borneo ; 
 the great houses of the Uaupes and Mandrucus closely resemble 
 those of the Dyaks of the same country ; while many small baskets 
 
474 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and bamboo boxes from Borneo and New Guinea are so similar ir. 
 their form and' construction to those of the Amazonian Indians 
 tliat they might be supposed to belong to adjoining tribes. Then, 
 again, the Mandruciis, like the Dyaks, take the heads of their 
 enemies, smoke-dry them with equal care, preserving the skin and 
 hair entire, and hang them up around their houses. In Australia, 
 the throwing-stick is used; and on a remote branch of the Amazon 
 (the Purus) we see a tribe of Indians (the Purupurus) differing 
 from all around them in substituting for the bow a weapon only 
 found in such a i-cmote portion of the earth, among a people so 
 distinct from them in almost every physical characteristic. 
 
 The aboriginal population is unknown, and there are only about 
 nineteen thousand catechized or Christian Indians reported by the 
 Minister of the Empire. 
 
 On the ocean-route from Eio to Bahia there are four small islands, 
 called the Abrolhos, ("Open your eyes,") which are dangerous pro- 
 jections from a bank of rocks that exhibits itself occasionally 
 between the seventeenth and twenty-fifth degrees of south lati- 
 tude, at a distance of from two to ten leagues from the mainland. 
 Besides these, there is also a regular reef of rocks running quite 
 near the shore, and generally parallel with it, the whole distance 
 from Cape Frio to Maranham. Espirito Santo, Porto Scguro, 
 Ilheos, and, in fact, nearly all the ports along the entire coast, are 
 formed by openings through this reef. 
 
 After three or four days' steaming, the lower exti'emity of the 
 island of Itaparica, with its numerous palm-trees, looms up in the 
 horizon, and but a short time elapses before the eye catches the 
 outline of tne white domes and towers of Bahia San Salvador, the 
 second city of the Empire. 
 
 \yhen the steamer arrived, I was, through the kindness of Sr. 
 Nobre, the guardd mor, immediately transferred to the shore in his 
 Government-barge. The walls of a circular fort rising from the 
 bosom of the water, built by the Dutch, frown upon the shipping; 
 Avhile the fortresses on the hills command the harbor and the 
 entire cit}'. 
 
 Landing at the Custom-House, I passed into the lower town, 
 with its narrow streets (in some places there is but one) running 
 parallel to the water's edge. 
 
The City of Bahia. 475 
 
 Along the Eua da Praya are located the Alfandega and the Con- 
 Bulado, through the latter of which all home-jiroductions must pass 
 preliminary to exportation. Some of the trapiches (warehouses) 
 near by ai'e of immense extent, and are said to be among the 
 largest in the world. 
 
 Around the landing-places cluster hundreds of canoes, launches, 
 and various other small craft, discharging their loads of fruit and 
 produce. On one part of the praya is a wide opening, which is 
 used as a market-place. Xear this a beautiful spacious modern 
 building has been constructed for an exchange. It is well supplied 
 with newspapers from all parts of the world, and is in a cool and 
 airy situation. The principal commercial houses are situated on 
 tbe Eua Xova do Commercio, and these compose the finest blocks 
 of buildings in Brazil, — perhaps in all South America. These 
 edifices would adorn the business-portions of London, Paris, or 
 New York. 
 
 The lower town is not calculated to make a favorable impression 
 upon the stranger. The lofty buildings are nearly all old, although 
 generally of a cheerful exterior. The streets in this vicinity are 
 very narrow, uneven, and wretchedly paved, and at times as filthy 
 as those of Xew York. At the same time it is crowded with pedlars 
 and cari'iers of every description. You here become acquainted 
 with one peculiarity of Bahia. Owing to the irregularities of its 
 surface and the steepness of the ascent which separates the upper 
 town from the lower, it does not admit the use of wheel-carriages. 
 Not even a cart or truck is to be seen for the purpose of removing 
 burdens from one place to another. Whatever requires change of 
 place in all the commerce and ordinar}' business of this seaport — 
 and it is second in size and importance to but one other in South 
 America — must pass on the heads and shoulders of men. Burdens 
 are here more frequently carried upon the shoulders, since, the 
 principal exports of the city being sugar in cases and cotton in 
 bales, it is impossible that they should be borne on the head like 
 bags of coffee. 
 
 Immense numbers of tall, athletic negroes are seen moving in 
 pairs or gangs of four, six, or eight, with their loads suspended 
 between them on heavy poles. Numbers more of their fellows are 
 Been sitting upon their poles, braiding straw, or lying about the 
 
476 
 
 Brazil and tue Brazilians. 
 
 alleys and corners of the streets asleep, reminding one of black 
 snakes coiled up in the sunshine. The sleepers generallj' have 
 some sentinel ready to call them when the}- are wanted for busi- 
 ness, and at the given signal they rouse up, like the elephant to bis 
 burden. Like the coft'ec-carriers of Eio, they often sing and shout 
 as they go; but their gait is necessarily slow and measured, re- 
 sembling a dead-march rather than the double-quick step of theii 
 Fluminensian colleagues. Another class of negroes are devoted to 
 carrying passengers in a species of sedan-chair called cadeiras. 
 
 :^" 
 
 PORTERS OF BAHIA. 
 
 It is indeed a toilsome and often a dangerous task for a whito 
 person to ascend on foot the bluffs on which stands the cidade alta, 
 particularly when the powerful rays of the sun are pouring, with- 
 out mitigation, upon the head. No omnibus or cab can be found 
 to do him service. In accordance with this state of things, he 
 finds near ever}' corner or place of public resort a long row of cur- 
 tained cadeiras, the bearers of which, hat in hand, crowd around 
 him with all the eagerness, though not with the impudence, of 
 carriage-drivers in North America, saying, " Quer cadeira, Senhorf 
 ("Will you have a chair, sir?") When he has made his selection, 
 and seated himself to his liking, the bearers elevate their load and 
 march along, apparently as much pleased with the oiDportunity of 
 
Cadeiras and thete, Carriers. 
 
 477 
 
 ^— '• 
 
 J 
 
 r-- 
 
 carrying a passenger as he is with the chance of being carried. 
 To keep a cadeira or two, and negroes to bear them, is as necessary 
 for a family in Bahia as the keeping of carriages and horses is else- 
 where. The livery of the carriei'S, and the expensiveness of tho 
 curtaining and ornaments of the cadeira, indicate the rank and 
 style which the familj^ maintains. 
 
 Occasionally you will 
 meet aj^roud Creole Mina 
 
 negress, w^ho rejoices in -r^r^^::^^ j^-^-i ^.J 
 
 the name 'par excdhnce 
 of the Bahiana. Her 
 turban, her shawl, her 
 ornaments, and her 
 elastic step in the heel- 
 ed slipper, display a 
 native grace unattain- 
 able by modern fashion. 
 
 I regret that I have 
 no sketch of Bahia taken 
 from the water, — for 
 from that point the city 
 seems truly magnificent 
 in its proportions; but 
 the large cut, from a 
 daguerreotype, gives a 
 view of the religious 
 metropolis of Brazil, 
 stretching on its ter- 
 raced hills around to 
 
 Montserrat. The steep ascent on which we see tho cadeira- 
 carriers is the same np which Henry Martyn climbed in 1805, so 
 graphically' described in the journal incoi^porated in the pages of 
 his biography. The lower city, with the exception of the Eua 
 Nova do Commercio, has been very little changed since the visit 
 of that devoted missionary. 
 
 Some of the streets between the upper and lower towns wind 
 by a zigzag course along ravines; others slant across an almost 
 perpendicular bluff, to avoid, as much as possible, its st(;epnes8. 
 
 THE BAHIANA NEGRESS. 
 
478 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Nor is the surflice level when you have ascended to the summit. 
 Not even Eome can boast of so many hills as are here clustered 
 together, forming the site of Bahia. Its extent between its 
 extreme limits — Eio Vcrmelho and Montserrat — is about six miles. 
 The city is nowhere wide, and for the most part is composed of 
 only two or three principal streets. The direction of these 
 changes with the various curves and angles necessary' to preserve 
 the summit of the promontory. Frequent openings between the 
 houses built along the summit exhibit the most picturesque views 
 of the bay on the one hand and of the countr}^ on the other. 
 The aspect of the city is antique. Great sums have been expended 
 in the construction of its pavements, — more, however, with a view 
 to preserve the streets from injury by rain than to furnish roads 
 for an}^ kind of carriages. Here and there may be seen an ancient 
 fountain of stonework, placed in a valley of greater or less depth, 
 to serve as a rendezvous for some stream that trickles down the 
 hill above; but nowhere is there any important aqueduct, though 
 recent water-works, with steam-engines manufactured in France, 
 have been lately erected east of the Noviciado, which will furnish 
 a bountiful supply of the potable element to the city. 
 
 In contemplating Bahia from the theatre (the large building on 
 the high terrace) we are carried back to the eai"liest periods of the 
 colonial history of Brazil. The old round foi't in the midst of the 
 waves is an episode of the brief power of Holland in this portion 
 of America, upon which Time has made no perceptible change. 
 
 Bahia de Todos os Santos, the Bay of All Saints, was discovered 
 in 1503 by Americus Yespucius, who was then voyaging under the 
 patronage of the King of Portugal, Dom Manoel. In 1510, u 
 vessel under the command of Diogo Alvares Correa was wrecked 
 near the entrance of this bay. The Tupinambas, inhabiting the 
 coast, fell upon and destroyed all who survived this shipwreck, 
 except the captain of the vessel. The Indians spared Diogo, — 
 probably, as some supposed, on account of his activity in assisting 
 them to save articles from the wreck. He had the good fortune 
 to obtain a musket and some barrels of powder and ball. He early 
 took occasion to shoot a bird, and the Indians, terrified by the ex- 
 plosion no less than by its effects, called him from that moment 
 Caramwrti, "the man of fire." 
 
Romantic History of Caramuru. 479 
 
 He then conciliated their favor by assuring them that, although 
 he Tvas a terror to his enemies, he could be a valuable auxiliary to 
 his friends. He accordingly accompanied the Tupinambas on an 
 expedition against a neighboring tribe with whom they were at 
 war. The first discharge of Caramuru's musket gained him 
 possession of the field, his frightened adversaries scampering for 
 their lives. 
 
 Little more was necessary to secure him a perfect supremacy 
 among the aboriginals. As a proof of this, he was soon compli- 
 mented with proposals from various chiefs, who offered him their 
 daughters in marriage. Diogo made choice of Paraguassu, 
 daughter of the head-chief Itaparica, whose name is perpetuated 
 as the designation of the large island in front of the city, while 
 that of Paraguassu, the bride, is applied to one of the rivers 
 emptying into the bay. He built a hamlet which he denominated 
 S. Salvador,* in gratitude for his escape from the shipwreck. 
 This settlement was located in a place denominated Gra^a, on the 
 Victoria Hill, a suburb of the city, still occasionally called Villa 
 Velha, (old to^vn.) 
 
 After the lapse of some years, a ship from Normandy anchored 
 in front of Caramuru's town and opened communications with 
 the shore. Diogo now determined to return to Europe; and, 
 having supplied the vessel with a cargo, he embarked for Dieppe, 
 accompanied by Paraguassu. He intended, if he arrived safely, to 
 go from Dieppe to Lisbon. The French, however, would not jjer- 
 mit this, but preferred to make him a lion in their own capital. 
 Paraguassu was the first Indian female who had ever appeared in 
 Paris. A splendid fete was given at her baptism, when she was 
 christened Catharine Alvares, after the Queen Catharine de Xedicis. 
 King Henry II., accompanying his royal spouse, officiated on the 
 occasion as godfather and sponsor. 
 
 * In successive editions of the narrative of the " United States Exploring Expe- 
 dition" we find the following: — "The city of San Salvador, better known as Rio 
 de Janeiro," — which is comparable for accuracy to McCulloch's Geographical 
 Dictionary, making the mountainous province of Rio de Janeiro to consist "mostly 
 of plains." San Salvador is eight hundred miles north of Rio de Janeiro, and 
 San Sebastian — the old name of Rio — has about as much similarity to San Salvador 
 as New Orleans has to New York. 
 
480 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The French Government contracted with Caramurii to send out 
 vessels which should carry him to his adopted country, and return 
 with brazil-wood and other articles, which should be given in ex- 
 change for goods and trinkets. In the mean time, true to his original 
 intent, he contrived to inform Dom John 111., of Portugal, of the 
 importance of colonizing Bahia. A j^oung Portuguese, who had 
 just finished his studies in Paris and was returning to Portugal, 
 was the bearer of this message. This young man (Pedro Fer- 
 nandez Sardinha) afterward became Bishop of Bahia. 
 
 The natives rejoiced at Caramuru's return, and his colony now 
 increased rapidly and extended its influence in every direction. 
 
 At this period the King of Portugal, in order to secure the set- 
 tlement of Brazil, divided the country into twelve captaincies, 
 each of fifty leagues' extent on the coast, and boundless toward 
 the interior. Each captaincy was conceded to a, Donatary, whose 
 power and authority were absolute. Francisco Pereira Coutinho, 
 who came to take possession of Bahia, was a man rash and arbi- 
 trary in the extreme. He became jealous of the influence of Diogo 
 Alvares, and commenced to persecute and oppress him, and finally 
 sent him on board a ship as a prisoner. 
 
 This course exasperated the Indians, who determined on revenge. 
 They attacked the settlement and killed Coutinho. Diogo Alvares 
 was again restored to his original supremacy. 
 
 The growing importance of the country, together with rumors 
 of violence practised b}' the Donataries, induced Dom John III. to 
 appoint a Governor-General of Brazil, to reside at S. Salvador and 
 to have jurisdiction over all the Donataries. 
 
 In 1549, Thome de Souza, the first Governor-Genei-al, landed with 
 military ceremonies at Villa Yelha, but in the course of a month 
 proceeded to choose another location for the commencement of his 
 operations. It was that of the present Cathedral, Government 
 Palace, and other public buildings. 
 
 Caramurii was now an old man, but was of great service to the 
 Governor-General in consummating with the natives a treaty of 
 peace. In four months a hundred houses were built, and various 
 sugar-plantations were laid out in the vicinity. 
 
 From this period the city of S. Salvador, having been constituted 
 the capital of Portuguese America, and remaining under the direct 
 
Bahia Captured by the Hollanders. 481 
 
 patronage of the mother-country, rapidly increased in size and 
 importance. 
 
 The year 162-1: witnessed the first depredations of the Dutcn 
 upon the then quiet and pi-osperous eit}" of Bahia. Without tho 
 least notice or provocation, a fleet from Holland entered the 
 harbor, attacked the city, burned the shipping, and debarked men 
 to seize the fortress of S. Antonio, and, after some fighting, gained 
 possession of the town. This they sacked, not even sparing the 
 churches. The captors immediately erected additional fortifica- 
 tions and built many new houses. They made prizes of all the 
 Portuguese and Spanish ships that came into the harbor not 
 knowing that the town had changed masters. 
 
 Portugal was at this time tributary to Spain. The news of the 
 loss of Bahia caused great consternation at Madrid, and the more 
 since it had been rumored that the English were to unite their 
 forces with the Dutch and establish the Elector-Palatine King of 
 Brazil. The Spanish court adopted measures worthy of its super- 
 stition and its power. Instructions were despatched to the Gover- 
 nors of Portugal, requiring them to examine into the crimes which 
 had provoked this visitation of the divine vengeance, and to 
 l^unish them forthwith. Novenas were appointed throughout the 
 whole kingdom; and a litany and prayers, framed for the occasion, 
 were to be said after the mass. On one of the nine days there was 
 to be a solemn procession of the people in every town and village, 
 and of the monks in every cloister. The sacrament was exposed 
 in all the churches of Lisbon, and a hundred thousand crowns were 
 contributed in that city to aid the Government in recovering 
 S. Salvador. 
 
 A great ocean-fleet of forty sail, carrying eight thousand soldiers^ 
 
 sailed under D. Fadrique de Toledo and D. Manoel de Menezes, 
 
 which in March, 1625, appeared off" the bay; and after some delay, 
 
 the object of which was to learn if the Hollanders had received 
 
 reinforcements, D. Fadrique, satisfied that they had not, entered 
 
 the harbor with trumpets sounding, colors flying, and the ships 
 
 ready for action. The Dutch vessels also, and the walls and forts, 
 
 were dressed out, with their banners and streamers hoisted, either 
 
 to welcome friends or defy enemies, whichever these new-comera 
 
 might prove to be. The city had been fortified with great care, 
 
 SI 
 
482 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 according to the best principles of engineering, — a science in which 
 no people had at that time such exj)erience as the Dutch. " It was 
 defended by ninety-two pieces of artillery, and from the new fort 
 upon tlie beach they fired red-hot shot. 
 
 After some severe skirmishing, the Dutch, having waited in vain 
 for the fleet from Holland, proposed a capitulation, which w-as 
 acceded to. 
 
 The Hollanders attempted to retake the city in 1638, vmder 
 Mauritz, Count of Nassau, who was then in possession of Pernam- 
 buco and a large portion of the adjoining coast. They were re- 
 peatedly defeated at Bahia, but succeeded for a time at other 
 points. 
 
 The original attack, on the part of the Dutch, grew out of 
 purely mercenary motives. It was planned and executed under 
 the auspices of the celebrated West India Company. Proving 
 successful at first, the Hollanders did not content themselves with 
 plundering the inhabitants, but determined to make the very soil 
 their own. Their inroads were manfully resisted by the Portu- 
 guese, and the war, at different times, extended along the_ whole 
 coast from Bahia to Maranham. 
 
 In 1636, Mauritz, Count of Nassau, was sent out to .take com- 
 mand of the troops and to govern the new Empire. Under his 
 direction active measures were set on foot; forts, cities, and 
 palaces were built, and the country was explored in soai'ch of 
 mines. Agriculture was undertaken with a strong hand, and it is 
 easy to imagine what changes would have been introduced into 
 those fertile regions by the industrious Hollanders, had not the 
 fate of war decided against them. In the low ground, the mai-shea 
 and the streams that surround the city of Pernambuco, they would 
 have especially gloried. 
 
 But the Brazilians, under their vigilant leaders, Camariio, Hen 
 rique Diaz, (the former an Indian, the latter a negro,) Souto, and 
 Vieyra, kept up such incessant attacks upon the Hollanders, that 
 at last, in 1654, they were expelled from Pernambuco, and in 1661 
 they abandoned, by negotiation, all claim to Brazil. 
 
 It is interesting to think that, whatever motives may have urged 
 the commercial Hollanders to attack Brazil, the Christians of that 
 brave little Protestant country were not slow to follow u]) the 
 
Commerce for the Ransom of Slaves. 483 
 
 Bettlements; and hence, in Pernambuco and vicinity, faithful mis- 
 sionary stations were estabhshed, and, when the Dutch were finally 
 driven from the country, some of the clergymen came to Kew 
 Amsterdam, and one of them was the first pastor of the Dutch 
 Eeformed Church founded at Flatbush, Long Island. 
 
 From this time the Hollanders ceased their attacks on Bahia, 
 that city advanced in wealth and prosperity, and was the seat of 
 the Viceroyalty until 1763, when it was transferred to Eio de 
 Janeiro. 
 
 The position of Bahia, opposite the coast of Africa, caused it to, 
 be, from early times, an important rendezvous for those engaged 
 in the African slave-trade. The offensive ideas now associated 
 with that traffic among all enlightened nations are strangely in 
 contrast with the semblance of philanthropy under which it was 
 originally carried on. "What a worthy enterprise, to send vessels 
 to ransom those poor pagan captives and bring them where they 
 could be Christianized by baptism, and at the same time lend a 
 helping hand to those who had been so kind as to purchase them 
 out of heathen bondage and bring them to a Christian country ! 
 Expressive of such ideas, the bland title bj^ which the buj-ing and 
 selling of human beings was known during the seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries, was the ''commerce for the ransom of slaves." 
 
 Bahia increased in population and wealth, and in 1808 its pros- 
 perity was still more augmented b^'' the Carta Eegia which opened 
 the ports of Brazil to the world. 
 
 This city was the last that remained faithful to Portugal; for, 
 though the indejiendence of the Empire was declared in September, 
 1822, it was not until July, 1823, and after severe suffering, that 
 the Portuguese army evacuated Bahia de San Salvador. The rebel- 
 lion of 1837 was frightful in the extreme; but the Imperial Go- 
 vernment finally obtained the mastery, and from that day to this 
 Bahia has continued quiet, and has made rapid strides of im- 
 provement. 
 
 I do not think that there is any city in Brazil that so interests 
 the foreigner as Bahia. It is the spiritual capital of the country, 
 being the residence of the archbishop. The churches, the con- 
 vents, and other public buildings, are upon a large scale, and have 
 no provincialism in their appearance. The people are gay and 
 
484 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 social, and in ray extended travels throughout the Empire 1 have 
 nowhere found a society equal to that of Bahia. At the house of 
 Mr. Gillmci', the American Consul, one is always sure to meet the 
 most refined and well-educated Brazilians. This gentleman is one 
 of the few American consuls who, by knowledge of the language 
 of the land where they reside, by sociabilit}- of character and ease 
 of manners, and by pride of country', justly represent a great 
 nation. Mr. Gillmer has long resided at Bahia, and by his many 
 excellent qualities has won the hearts of the Brazilians. The 
 weeks spent in his agreeable family gave me an opportunity for 
 making many acquaintances among the citizens of Bahia and the 
 foreigners resident in that city. The residence of Mr. Gillmer is in 
 a delightful portion of the city, where verdure and bloom abound. 
 Each night *the breezes were laden with sweet odors, and every 
 morning the sun seemed to reveal new beauties of opening buds 
 and brilliant flowei's. The house of Senhor Nobre was surrounded 
 
 by shade and fruit trees, and his large 
 salon was weekly filled by amateur 
 and professional musicians, who gave 
 the most charming soirees musicales. 
 
 Early one morning I looked from 
 a window of the Consul's house, 
 and saw, upon the branch of a 
 bread-fruit-tree beneath me, a hum- 
 ming-bird sitting quietly upon her 
 tiny nest. In the midst of the foli- 
 age she appeared like a piece of 
 lapis lazuli sui'rounded by emeralds; 
 for her back was of the deepest blue. 
 Everywhere throughout Brazil this 
 little winged gem, in many varieties, 
 abounds, while in North America, 
 from Mexico to the fifty-seventh de- 
 gree of latitude, it is said that there 
 is but one species of the humming- 
 bii'd. Mr. Gossc calls the long-tailed kind {Trochilus polytjnus) the 
 gem of American ornithology; and well it deserves the title, if 
 we consider the flashes of rich golden green, purplish black, deep- 
 
 THE LONG TAILED MALE 
 HU M M I NG-B 1 R D. 
 
American Cemetery. 
 
 485 
 
 bluish gloss, and gorgeous emerald green, which irradiate from this 
 winged jewel. 
 
 The males are among the most belligerent of creatures, — rarely 
 meeting without having terrible combats 
 
 The city is not, however, so much distinguished for its frequen- 
 tation by humming-birds as its ba}^ is celebrated as a "whaling- 
 ground." To "fish for whales" is a reguhir 
 business at Bahia, and nearly everj^ week, 
 from the numerous terraces, admiring 
 thousands can gaze upon the stirring ex- 
 citement of capturing these monsters of 
 the deep. Why they frequent this port 
 I do not know, unless their j)eculiar food 
 abound in its waters. If we descend 
 through lime-tree hedges to the Rio Ver- 
 melho, we may have an opportunity 
 (besides seeing the fixtures for extracting 
 oil) of witnessing the triumphant arrival 
 of the dead leviathan. Hundreds of 
 jjeople — the colored especially — throng 
 
 around to witness the monster's dying struggles, and to procure 
 portions of his flesh, which they cook and eat. Vast quantities of 
 this flesh are cooked in the streets and sold by quitandeiras. 
 Numbers of swine also feast upon the carcass of the whale; and 
 all who are not specially discriminating in their selection of pork 
 in the market, during the season of these fisheries, are liable 
 (nolens volens) to get a taste of something ^'vqyj like a whale." 
 This whale-fishery was once the greatest in the world. At the 
 close of the seventeenth century, it was rented by the Crown for 
 thirty thousand dollars annually. 
 
 From the Eio Vermelho we ascend by a winding path to the 
 Victoria Hill, passing en route the English and American cemeteries. 
 The latter is the only burial-ground in Brazil belonging to the 
 citizens of the Union, and our country has long been greatly 
 indebted to the courtesy of English consuls for suitable places of 
 interment for natives of the United States. This cemetery is the 
 result of private generosity, and especially of the energy and 
 liberal subscriptions of Mr. Gillmer. It is, however, neither just 
 
 TROCHILUS POLYTMUS. 
 
486 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 nor reasonable that he should bear the whole burden. In vain has 
 he appealed to our Government for aid in keeping up this resting- 
 place for our country's dead; and the result is, that, no allowance 
 being granted, the cemeteiy is in a sad condition. The policy of 
 Great Britain is noble in this resiject. Everywhere she erects 
 chapels and provides cemeteries for her subjects; and, though 
 necessarily the United States cannot recognise any connection 
 between Church and State, yet a decent place for the burial of the 
 dead iji foreign countries is a matter of common humanity, Vvhich 
 demands immediate attention from Government. I have known 
 jjarents in the United States who would have given thousands if 
 they could only know the spot where rested the remains of beloved 
 sons who, dying in hospitals, were thrust into the common receptacle 
 for those whose countr}^ had not made provision of a cemetery. 
 
 On the Victoria Hill may be found the finest gardens that Bahia 
 affords, the most enchanting walks, and the most ample shade. 
 Here, too, are the best houses, the best air, the best water, and the 
 best society. The walls of two ancient and extensive forts also 
 add much to the romance and histoi"ical interest of the place. 
 With its magnificent prospect of blue water and verdant isles, it 
 is a spot that combines an external beauty of the rarest quality. 
 It was here that Henry Martyn, who incidentally touched at this 
 port on his passage to India more than half a century ago, sighed 
 and sung, — 
 
 " O'er the gloomy hills of darkness 
 Look, my soul ; be still, and gaze." 
 
 That the moral aspect of the place has not undergone any very 
 great change (unless it be in diminished bigotry and greater indif- 
 ference) is not to be presumed, as no causes have been at work 
 that contemplated such a change. Everywhere there are still 
 evidences which give point to the remark of Martyn : — ''Crosses 
 there are in abundance; but when shall the doctrines of the 
 cross be held up?" 
 
 I looked upon no portion of Brazil with greater interest than 
 those walks, gardens, chapels, and convents visited by Henry 
 Martyn. The Hospital for Lepers, and the chapel where ho gently 
 and lovingly, yet firmly, uttered his protest against corrupt religion. 
 
Henry Martyn in Bahia. 
 
 487 
 
 are still etanding: the latter, however, is no longer in use. Tha 
 pepper-plantation is torn up, but the clove-trees of which he speaka 
 are still flourishrne:. Some of the convents which he entered are 
 now tenantless of their monkish dwellers; for in some respects a 
 better day has dawned upon Brazil, and many of these huge build- 
 ings, once given up to thriftless, indolent, and vicious orders, are 
 now used for colleges, lyceums, libraries, and hospitals. The con- 
 vent where the future missionary to Persia alone, as the sun waa 
 setting and the cloisters were darkened, taught, with Vulgate in 
 
 A CHAPEL VISITED BY HENRY MARTYN. 
 
 hand, "the faith once delivered to the saints" to the curious and 
 benighted friars, still lifts its whitened walls, — walls which heard 
 his teachings and the prayers which he whispered for the blessing 
 of a pure gospel to descend upon Brazil. Have Henry Martyn's 
 prayers been forgotten before the Lord of Hosts? We love to 
 regard the jietitions of the early Huguenots at Eio de Janeiro, 
 those of the faithful missionaries of the Reformed Church of Hol- 
 land at Pernambuco, and the prayers of Henry Martyn at Bahia, 
 as not lost, but as having already descended, and a*s still to descend, 
 in rich blessings upon Brazil. 
 
 My intercourse with Eev. Mr. Edge, the English chaplain, waa 
 exceedingly pleasant. He was a Cambridge man, and one of en- 
 larged and catholic views. The chapel was better filled (m the 
 
488 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Sabbath than any other that I saw in Brazil. In a ramble with 
 him, I sketched, under a burning sun, the chapel above, which was 
 near the country-seat mentioned b}- Martyn where he first saAV the 
 clove and the pepper. That first visit of Henry Martyn in the 
 country, awa}^ from the house of Antonio Jose Correa, I believe to 
 have been where the Hospital of Montserrat is now situated. 
 
 The day was beautifully clear, and we rode over a long, well- 
 paved street called the Calgado, which reaches quite into the 
 country. In the outer suburbs the cocoanut-palm grows in great 
 profusion, and the jaca-tree waves its green, glistening foliage 
 above the infinite variety of vegetation which adorns this Southern 
 land. We passed the Carmelite Convent and went as far as the 
 
 N. SENHORA DE M N T S E R R AT. 
 
 road which leads to the Fever Hospital: here we descended and 
 walked to the tongue of land called Montserrat, upon which are 
 picturesque fortifications, a row of summer-houses, — that of Mr. 
 
View of Bahia fkom Montserrat. 489 
 
 Gillmer distinguished by the American flag, — and on the extreme 
 point a small Eoman Catholic chapel, more than two hundi*ed ^^ears 
 old, above the doorway of which I deciphered this inscription: — 
 "A Virgem foi concebida sem peccado original." Why Eomanists 
 should cling with such tenacity to the dogma of the immaculate 
 conception, which contains nothing essential to salvation, I could 
 never understand. 
 
 We visited the well-appointed hospital near by, which is intended 
 particularly for those who have been smitten with the j-ellow fever; 
 but its attacks have been very light for the last few years, though 
 the cholera, in 1855, was quite fatal to the blacks and to the mixed 
 population generally. Yet, when we consider that, out of a popula- 
 tion of nearly a million in the province, but nine thousand fell 
 before the cholera, the percentage is small compared -with that of 
 New York in 1833, and almost nothing when compared with the 
 ravages of the same disease at St. Louis in 1849 and '50. In the 
 spring of 1857, the journals of the United States teemed with the 
 accounts of the fell swoop of the yellow fever at Rio de Janeiro, 
 where for a short time twenty-five persons per diem died. It can be 
 proved by actual statistics that no city of equal population in the 
 United States has so good a sanitary condition as Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 The view of Bahia from Montserrat is truly magnificent. The 
 curving lines of whitened buildings — the one upon the heights, the 
 other upon the water's edge — everywhere sejiai^atcd by a broad, 
 rich belt of green, itself here and there dotted with houses, — the 
 fortress, the shipping, the white-capped waves, over which the 
 whale-boats are pursuing their gigantic sport, — the distant isle of 
 Itaparica and the blue ocean beyond, — all form a picture which at 
 the time fills one with exhilarating delight, and ever after dwells 
 in the cabinet of memory a choice and beautiful picture. There 
 are few cities that can present a single view of more imposing 
 beauty than does Bahia to a person beholding it from a suitable 
 distance on the water. Even Eio de Janeiro can hardly be cited 
 for such a comparison. The capital excels in the endless variety of 
 its beautiful suburbs; but in the Ai'chiepiscopal City beauty is con- 
 centrated and presented at one view. In Rio, for pleasant abodes, 
 one section competes with another, and each offers some ground 
 of preference; but in Bahia, the superiorities seem all to be united 
 
490 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 in one section, leaving the foreigner no room for doubt that the 
 focus is the Victoria Hill. 
 
 Bcneatli its brow, just on the edge of the bay, is a stately resi- 
 dence embowered with cool fruit and flowering trees, where foun- 
 tains sweetly murmur in cadence with the musical rippling of the 
 waters which break upon the neighboring beach. It may, how- 
 ever, distress some of my readers to know that this beautiful place 
 is a snuff-factory, where the celebrated area ^veta is made which 
 enjoys a mono2:iol3" in Brazil. Snuff-making and snuff-taking were 
 found among the aborigines; but this particular snuff was the 
 invention of a Swiss from Neufchatel, and from which he acquired 
 a large fortune. By his will, after enriching his relatives, he left 
 liberal sums for the endowment of hospitals for his native canton, 
 and also for benevolent purposes in Bahia. The main establishment 
 (there are branches in Eio and Pernambuco) is under the superin- 
 tendence of M. Barrelet, of Neufchatel, in whose agreeable family 
 I had that intercourse so sweet to the Christian in a foreign land. 
 
 Common-school education at Bahia is upon the best footing in 
 the Empire, and the Bahians take great pride in showing the 
 statistics of their various institutions. Young Br. Fairbanks ac- 
 companied me one morning through the chief hospital and the 
 medical college. In the latter I found that there were nearly three 
 hundred students attending the lectures. Some of the professors — 
 both natives and foreigners — are men of talent and erudition, and 
 the course of instruction is probably equal to that of an}- medical 
 school on the Western continent. In the library connected with 
 the institution I saw some very large and very costly volumes on 
 anatomy in the Eussian language. They had been recently sent 
 out from St. Petersburg, and were in every respect very finely 
 gotten up. 
 
 Near b}' is the old Cathedral, an immense edifice, which has 
 been constructed with great expense, and is superior to any church 
 in Brazil, unless it may be the unfinished Candalaria of Eio. In a 
 wing of this building, from which ma}' be enjoyed a very com- 
 manding view of the harbor, is located the public library. It con- 
 tains many thousand volumes, a large portion of which are in 
 French; and it also possesses some most valuable manuscripts. 
 
 The librarian is the Hon. Chevalier de Lisboa, the accomplished 
 
National Gala-Days. 491 
 
 scholar and gentleman, who, as Minister-Plenipotentiary, repre- 
 sented Brazil at Washington in 1845. I was deeply interested in 
 a large and well-illustrated volume shown me by the Chevalier, 
 which was an account of the "Dutch in Brazil" and was published 
 at Amsterdam before the middle of the seventeenth century. 
 
 In the immediate neighborhood of the Cathedral are the archi- 
 episcopal palace and seminar}^, and the old Jesuit College, now 
 used as a military hospital. The latter building, together with 
 the Church of JSTossa Senhora da Conceigao, (its steeples are seen on 
 the right of the large view of Bahia,) on the Praya, may almost be 
 said to have been built in Europe : at least, the principal stone- 
 work for them was cut, fitted, and numbered on the other side of 
 the Atlantic, and imported ready for immediate erection. The 
 President's palace is also but a short distance from this locality. 
 It is a substantial building, of ancient date, located upon one side 
 of an open square. 
 
 The Presidents of provinces are appointed by the Emperor, and 
 his choice is by no means confined to the particular province to be 
 governed. Hence Brazilian statesmen are liable to many changes 
 of residence : but it may be that there is wisdom in this, for it has 
 been said that the selections are thus made of strangers to the pro- 
 vince so "that the influence of family connections and personal 
 friendships may not prove temptations to partiality in the distribu- 
 tion of "-ifts and emoluments under their control." The President 
 
 O 
 
 is, in fact, a Viceroy with a body-guard; and it seems to me that 
 the appointing-power by which he is elevated to office is one of 
 the most conservative elements in the Brazilian Constitution. 
 
 My colleague was at Bahia on the anniversary of the Emperor's 
 birth, and his felicitous* description of that scene will convey an 
 idea of similar celebrations throughout the whole Empire : — 
 
 " The Baliians were preparing to celebrate the birthday of their j'outhful Em- 
 peror, the 2J of December. This anniversary is, throughout the nation, a favorite 
 one among the several dias de grande gala, or political holidays. Of these the Bra- 
 zilians celebrate six. The 1st of January heads the list with New Year's compli- 
 ments to His Majesty. The 25th of March commemorates the adoption of the 
 Constitution. The 7th of April is the anniversary of the Emperor's accession to 
 the throne. The 3d of May is the day for opening the sessions of the National 
 Assembly. The 7th of September is the anniversary of the Declaration of the 
 national Independence; while the last in the catalogue is the 2d of December, the 
 Emperor's birthday. On all these days, except the 3d of May, His Majesty holds 
 
•492 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 court in the palace at Rio. Presidents of provinces, as the special representatives 
 of the Crown, follow the example of their sovereign, by holding lev6e in the several 
 provincial capitals ; but they do not presume to receive Imperial honors in their 
 own person. The place of honor in their sola de coHcjo is always allotted to the 
 portrait of His Majesty. Near by, as the special representative of the throne, the 
 President takes his place, accompanied perchance by the bishop. Before these, in 
 measured step, pass the dignitaries invited, in the order of their rank and distinc- 
 tion, paying their obeisance severally to the Imperial portrait. After this ceremony, 
 mutual compliments are exchanged by the individuals present, and the company 
 breaks up. 
 
 " It was no ordinary celebration that was to take place at this time. During the 
 recent session of the National Assembly at Ptio de Janeiro, it had been more than 
 intimated that the Bahians generally were doubtful in their loyalty. Not relishing 
 Buch insinuations, they had resolved to make a display on this occasion which, 
 from its unexampled magnificence, should not only demonstrate their fidelity to the 
 throne, but should throw even the metropolis into the shade. In addition to the 
 usual cortejo, there were to be ceremonies for three successive days and illumina- 
 tions for as many nights. On the first day there was to be a grand Te Deum, with 
 a sermon ; on the second, a military ball at the palace ; and on the third, an un- 
 rivalled exhibition of fireworks, on Victoria Hill, at the Campo de S. Pedro. 
 
 " The 2d of December came. It was not clad in the frosty robes of a Northern 
 winter, with whistling winds and drifted snow at its heels. Nay, the North is not 
 farther from the South than is the idea many a reader has pictured in his imagina- 
 tion at the bai'e mention of December, from the reality of the day in question. 
 Preceded by but a brief interval of twilight, the sun threw upward his mellowest 
 rays, burnishing the wreathed clouds of the eastern horizon. Pi-esently from his 
 bed of ocean he rose majestic on his vertical pathway, looking down on one of the 
 fairest scenes nature ever presented to the eye of man. The boundless expanse of 
 the Atlantic on the east, — the broad and beautiful bay on the south and west, with 
 its palm-crested islands and circling mountains, — were but an appropriate foreground 
 to the lovely picture of the citj' herself, reposing like a queen of beauty amid the 
 embowering groves of the proud eminences over which her mansions, her temples, 
 and her lordly domes were scattered. 
 
 *' The day was ushered in by the roar of cannon from the several batteries and 
 the vessels-of-war. From that moment might be seen the shipping of every nation 
 in the harbor, gayly decked with flags, signals, and streamers of unnumbered 
 hues. 
 
 " Being much occupied in the morning, I did not reach the Cathedral in time to 
 listen to the discourse which preceded the Te Deum, which terminated at three 
 o'clock P.M. At this moment there was a discharge of rockets in front of the 
 Oathedi'al and a general salute of artillery from the guns of the forts and shipping. 
 The scene was now transfen-ed to the Government Palace, the old residence of the 
 Viceroys, where the cortejo took place. At the same time, the troops of the city, 
 to the number of two thousand five hundred, were paraded in the Palace Square 
 and in the streets leading from the Cathedral to that place. These, together with 
 all the other principal streets, had been adorned by silk and damask hangings from 
 the windows, — the national colors, yellow and green, being most frequent and most 
 admired. The illumination at night throughout the city, but specially at the Pas- 
 seio Publico, was, of all other parts of the celebration, most interesting to me. 
 
 " This public promenade of Bahia is located on the boldest and most commanding 
 
The Public Promenade of Bahia. 493 
 
 height of the whole town. One of its sides looks toward the ocean, and another 
 up the bay, while nothing but an iron railing guards the visitor against the danger 
 of falling over the steep precipice by which its whole front is bordered. For 
 airiness, this locality is not even surpassed by the Battery of New York, while its 
 sublime elevation throws the last-mentioned place into an unfavorable contrast. 
 The space allotted to the Battery is greater, but the variety and richness of the 
 trees and flowers of the Passeio Publico of Bahia fully compensate for its deficiency 
 in this respect. Here it was, under the dark, dense foliage of the mangueiras, the 
 lime-trees, the bread-fruit, the cashew, and countless other trees of tropical 
 growth, that thousands of lights were blazing. Most of these hung in long lines 
 of transparent globes, — so constructed as to radiate severally the principal hues of 
 the rainbow, — and waved gracefully in the evening breeze as it swept along, laden 
 with the fragrance of opening flowers. 
 
 " The calmness of a summer evening always throws an enchantment over the 
 feelings ; but there was a peculiar richness in this scene. Not only was the ob- 
 server delighted with the varied and skilful exhibitions of artificial light around 
 him, but, lifting his eyes above them to the vaulted empyrean, he might there gaze 
 upon the handiwork of the Almighty, so gloriously displayed in the bright constel- 
 lations of the Southern sky. 
 
 " The Avealth, fashion, and beauty of the Bahians never boasted a more felicitous 
 display than was mutually furnished and witnessed by the thousands that thronged 
 this scene. AVhat an occasion was here offered to the mind disposed to philosophize 
 on man! From hoary age to playful youth, no condition of life or style of 
 character was unrepresented. The warrior and the civilian, the man of title, the 
 millionnaire and the slave, all mingled in the common rejoicings. Never, espe- 
 cially, had the presence of females in such numbers been observed to grace a scene 
 of public festivity. Mothers, daughters, wives, and sisters, who seldom were per- 
 mitted to leave the domestic circle, except in their visits to the moi-ning mass, bung 
 upon the arms of their several protectors, and gazed with undissembled wonder at 
 the seemingly magic enchantments before and around them. The dark and flowing 
 tresses, the darker and flashing eyes, of a Brazilian belle, together with her some- 
 times darkly-shaded cheek, show ofl" with greater charms from not being hidden 
 under the arches of a fashionable bonnet. The graceful folds of her mantilla, or 
 of the rich gossamer veil which is sometimes its substitute, wreathed in some inde- 
 scribable manner over the broad, high, and fancy-wrought shell that adorns her 
 head, can scarcely be improved by any imitation of foreign fashions. Nevertheless, 
 the forte of a Brazilian lady is in her guitar, and the soft modinhas she sings in 
 accompaniment to its tones. 
 
 " On the marble monument erected in memory of Dom John's visit to Bahia 
 illuminated forms were fitted, and, on this occasion, displayed, in large and bril- 
 liant letters, extravagant praise to D. Pedro II. 
 
 " In another quarter, upon a high parapet overlooking the sea and bay, had 
 been constructed a fancy pavilion, in the style of an Athenian temple. In front 
 of this, supported by the central columns, had been placed a full-length portrait 
 of His M.njesty. In the saloons of this palacete were stationed bands of music, 
 surrounded by ladies and dignitaries of the province. The portrait of the 
 Emperor was concealed by a curtain until a given hour of the evening, when the 
 President made his appearance, and, suddenly drawing it up, gave successive 
 vivas to His Majesty, the Imperial family, the Brazilian nation, and the people 
 of Bahia, — all af which were responded to with deafening acclamations from the 
 
491 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 multitude ar)und, while the heavens above were resplendent with the discharge 
 of a thousand rockets. 
 
 " On Wednesday, the festivities of the great national anniversary terminated with 
 a pyrotechnic display. The Passeio Publico was illuminated more brilliantly than 
 before, and all the gardens surrounding the Campo de San Pedro were lighted up 
 with torches and bonfires. A large platform had been erected in the centre of thia 
 square, upon which the Emperor's portrait was again exhibited, — the Archbishop 
 assisting the President to roll up the curtain from before it at the appointed hour. 
 The concourse of people was vastly greater than it had been on any previous evening. 
 The weather was without interruption serene and beautiful, but neither the plan 
 nor execution of the fireworks deserved high commendation. Yet all the bustle and 
 crowd passed away, as on the previous nights, without the slightest disturbance. 
 This fact was certainly a happy comment upon the orderly disposition of the people. 
 I witnessed no funcqao in Brazil which was, on the whole, more interesting to mc 
 than this. Its superiority over the exhibitions of the usual religious festivals was 
 manifest. In fact, the simple circumstance that it was a civic celebration, and 
 destitute of any religious pretensions, went far to commend it to the admiration 
 of any one who had often been shocked by those incongruous medleys of the 
 solemn and ridiculous which are by many thought essential to the 'pomp and 
 splendor' of religious anniversaries." 
 
 Away from the pretty Victoria Hill, in a portion of the lower 
 town, the stranger, among other curiosities, may see what is called 
 by its right name, — afabrica de imagens, (image-factory.) It is not 
 my intention to enlarge on worship in this city, for it is the same 
 as throughout the Empire. Saints, crucifixes, and every species 
 of the ghostly paraphernalia of Eomanism, are here exhibited in 
 the shoj)S, with a profusion which I nowhere else saw, indicating 
 that the traffic in these articles is more flourishing than in other 
 parts. It is not in name only that Bahia enjoys the ecclesiastical 
 supremacy of Brazil. It is the see of the only archbishop in the 
 Emjjire. Its churches exceed in number and in sumptuousuess 
 those of any other city; and its convents are said to contain more 
 friars and more nuns than those of all the Empire beside. 
 
 But I cannot pass over this subject without referring to Saint 
 Antonio de Argoira, who seems to be the favorite jjatron of the 
 calendar in Brazil. His image is in the Franciscan Convent, and 
 his history is as follows: — 
 
 In 1595, a fleet, under the direction of some Lutherans, sailed from France, with 
 the intention of capturing Bahia. On their way they attacked Argoim, a small 
 island on the coast of Africa belonging to the Portuguese, and, after having com- 
 mitted various depredations, carried otf, among other sacred things, an image of St. 
 Anthonj'. 
 
 Once more at sea, the fleet was attacked with storms, which sunk several of the 
 vessels. Those that escaped this fate were assaulted with a pestilence, dui-ing 
 
The Miracle Explained. 495 
 
 which, through pure spite toward the Roman Catholic religion, the aforesaid image 
 was thrown overboard, having been first hacked with cutlasses. The vessel that 
 carried it put into a port of Sergipe, and all on board were taken prisoners. These 
 men were sent to Bahia, and the first object they saw on the praia was the very 
 same image they had so maltreated. It had been cast up by the waters to 
 confront them ! 
 
 A worthy citizen obtained the image and placed it in his private chapel ; but 
 when the Franciscans learned what a miracle had happened, they demanded the 
 image, and carried it in solemn procession to their convent. So great was its fame 
 now, that King Philip ordered the establishment of a grand procession in memory 
 of these events. And, strange to tell, popularity did for the image what the 
 bitter hostility of the heretics could not do. Its friends, the friars, became ashamed 
 of its old and ugly appearance, and laid it aside to make room for a more gaudy 
 and fashionable one, which was christened in its name and presumed to be the 
 inheritor of its virtues. Having thus been introduced to the citizens of Bahia, 
 St. Anthony was now enlisted as a soldier in the fortress near the barra bearing 
 his name. 
 
 In this capacity he received regular pay until he was promoted to the rank of 
 captain by the Governor, Rodrigo da Costa. The order for his promotion lies 
 before me, and is so curious that I give the concluding portion. After referring to 
 a vow by the camara municipal, which had been unfulfilled, the Governor says, — 
 
 "Wherefore, and because we now more than ever need the favors of the afore- 
 mentioned saint, both on account of the present wars in Portugal, and of those which 
 may yet happen in Bahia, the said Chamber has besought me, in commemoration 
 of the afore -mentioned vow, to assign to the said glorious St. Anthony the rank and 
 pay of a captain in the fortress, where he has hitherto only received the pay of a 
 common soldier. 
 
 " In obedience to this request, and subject to the approval of the King, I there- 
 fore assign to the glorious St. Anthony the rank of captain in the said fortress, and 
 order that the solicitor of the Franciscan Convent be authorized to draw, in his 
 behalf, the regular amount of a captain's pay. 
 
 *' Rodrigo da Costa. 
 "Bahia, July 16,1705." 
 
 Now, the miracle of S. Antonio was truly notable. But the in- 
 vestigations of modern science, and a little more experience, have 
 cleared up the mystery. While conversing with a gentleman, not 
 a Eomanist, at Bahia, about S. Antonio's singular voyage to the 
 coast of Brazil, he gravely, to my surprise, stated that it was 
 without doubt a bona fide account that the hacked image had floated 
 to the Western world : all could be explained by natural laws. A 
 few days afterward he gave me the following, which Avill doubt- 
 less be a novel confirmation of Lieutenant Maury's theories in 
 regard to ocean winds and currents. 
 
 "It is not at all surprising that, in those days of gross credulity and ignorance, 
 the appearance of the image of Santo Antonio on this coast should have been con- 
 sidered as a miracle, performed expressly for the purpose of bringing to condign 
 
496 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 punishment the 'pirates' for the sacrilegious act they had committed. Of the 
 appearance of the image on the beach, and its having floated from Afiica, no rea- 
 sonable doubt can be entertained ; and, in proof of its entire probability, the follow- 
 ing remarkable coincidence may be presented : — 
 
 "About fifteen years ago, the late Visconde do Rio Vermelho, a gentleman of the 
 utmost veracity, and owner of an extensive fishery on this coast a few miles to the 
 north of the harbor of Bahia, near Itapican, declared to the writer of the present 
 lines that the figure-head of a vessel, somewhat injured by fire, was brought to his 
 residence from the beach (where it had been stranded) and placed on his grounds. 
 Shortly after, a painter from the city, engaged in painting the house, on seeing the 
 figure immediately recognised it as one he had painted, some months previously, 
 for a vessel which had afterward sailed for the coast of Africa, and of whose safety 
 great fears were entertained, no news having been received from her. It was sub- 
 sequently ascertained that the vessel in question had been burned to the water's 
 edge, on the coast of Africa, — the figure-head, singulai-ly enough, having brought 
 the first tidings of the disaster. 
 
 " It is likely that the figure-head, being of light cedar, and the pedestal to which 
 it was attached, of hard wood with bolts and fastenings of iron, may have floated 
 in a nearly upright position, thus presenting a broader surface for the action of 
 the northeast trade-wiuds, and materially accelerating its j)assage across the 
 Atlantic." 
 
 At Eio de Jiineiro S. Antonio has long enjoyed the position and 
 received the pay of a colonel in the regular army. How he can 
 appropriate his salary to himself is difficult for us to understand; 
 but it may throw some light on the subject to state that it passes 
 through the hands of his terrestrial delegates, — the Franciscan 
 monks, — and by a proper application you may see the accounts 
 and receipts for his saintship's washing, clothing, &c. 
 
 Traditions respecting St. Thomas's visit to Brazil are very 
 common in different parts of the country. Many of them were 
 coined by the Jesuits, and they have passed currently among a 
 credulous people. Observe the logic with Avhich the renowned 
 Simon de Vasconcellos proves that Saint Thomas, certainly, must 
 have been in South America. 
 
 "With what show of reason," says the Jesuit, "could the American Indian be 
 damned, if the gospel had never been preached to him ? He who sent his apostles 
 into all the world could not mean to leave America — which is nearly half of it — out 
 of the question. The gospel, therefore, must have been preached there in obedience 
 to this command. But by whom was it preached ? It could not have been by either 
 of the other apostles, Paul, Peter, John, &c. St. Thomas, therefore, must have 
 been the man!" 
 
 No wonder the Jesuits were able to map out his travels from 
 Brazil to Peru, to find traces of his pastoral staff, crosses erected 
 by him, and inscriptions in Greek and Hebrew written by his 
 
The Commerce of Bahia. 
 
 497 
 
 hand. They even brought his sandals and mantle unconsuraed 
 out of the volcano of Arequipa. I suppose it was either in going 
 or returning that he visited England and preached under the 
 Glastonbury Thorn. 
 
 The commerce of Bahia suffered to some extent at the suppres- 
 sion of the slave-trade; but it is slowly advancing in legitimate 
 channels. The culture of tobacco and of coffee are both increasing. 
 Eailways are projected into the interior, and steamers (not to men- 
 tion the Government lines) run to the coast-towns in Sergipe and 
 Alagoas on the north, and nearly to Espirito Santo on the south. 
 
 DARING NAVIGATION. 
 
 Sr. Martin, former President of the province, deserves great credit 
 for his advancement of agriculture, while Senhor Lacerda, co-ope- 
 rating with Messrs. Carson & Gillmer, has done much toward 
 advancing the manufacturing-interest. The finest factory in all 
 Brazil — perhaps South America — was erected according to the 
 plans and under the superintendence of Colonel Carson, an Ame- 
 rican of daring energy and genius. During my stay in the province 
 of Bahia, one of the pleasantest excursions was my visit to Ya- 
 len^a, the seat of the factory. 
 
 It was a cheerful party that accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Gillmer; 
 and the day was so bright that our trip was most agreeable over the 
 
 bay through a fleet of little whale-boats that were in hot pursuit 
 
 32 
 
498 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of their spouting game. There were a number of Brazilian gen- 
 tlemen on board, who, finding the American Consul making an 
 excursion, came and j^h'^ced their houses at the disposition of him- 
 self and companions. About noon we passed the light-house on the 
 Moro de S. Paulo, — a beautiful structux-e, built under the superin- 
 tendence of Colonel Carson. We steamed up the river Una to 
 Valenga, where the colonel joined us, and we then re-embarked in 
 long ''dug-outs" in order to ascend the stream to the fahrica. 
 
 In a few moments we were at the foot of roaring rapids, upon 
 the borders of which the genius of this enterprising American had 
 erected a saw-mill, a window-sash factory, and a planing-machine; 
 in addition to which he had constructed a lock, — the first in Brazil, 
 — through which our canoes passed. In the sash-factory we saw 
 the chief Avorkman, Mr. Foster, from Worcester, Massachusetts. 
 This establishment belonged to Dr. Bernardini, a Brazilian LL.D., 
 who left the judge's bench to enjoy the more lucrative position of 
 a manufacturer. At Dr. B.'s order, a slave brought down, with 
 capital skill, several saw-logs from above the falls. The expertness 
 with which he balanced himself and guided- in perfect safety his 
 clumsy craft was truly admirable, and called forth from our party 
 loud huzzas. The manner in which he managed the log illustrates 
 the descent of the rapids of the Upper Amazonian affluents. 
 
 We resumed our route, passing up the narrow stream. Upon 
 the banks were numerous negresses and mulatresses engaged in 
 washing. In looking upon them I thought, for the first time in 
 my life, of the nuisance of clothing in matters of manual labor. 
 The women (whose glistening rounded limbs were as smooth as 
 those of the Greek Slave) were naked to the Avaist, and the chil- 
 dren — some not far from their teens — were in pur is naturalibus. 
 
 We arrived at the factory, or, rather, at the factories; for, cluster- 
 ing around the large fahrica, whose white Avails stand out in bold 
 relief from its background of green, are machine-shops, foundries, 
 &c. &c. The rattle of the looms, the cheerful smile of the merry 
 girls, and the indescribable din and buzz of a factory, made me 
 almost imagine myself near LoAvell. The operatives, men and 
 women, are mostly from the orphan-asylum and foundling-hos- 
 pitals. They are under good discipline, and compare in morals 
 very favorably Avith those of the best-conducted factories in our 
 
Cotton-Factory at Valenca. 499 
 
 own land. In the foundry I saw the whole opei-ation of modelling, 
 moulding, and finishing, performed by negroes. The fbreman of 
 the foundry is a Brazilian negro, trained by Mr. Carson, and the 
 most intricate machinery is here manufactured. 
 
 Extensive buildings were still going up to facilitate the manu- 
 facture of cotton cloths, which are of finer quality than those 
 turned out at St. Alexio ; and it is gratifying to state that this 
 factory can scarcely meet the demand, and, doubtless, in a few 
 years Messrs. Lacerda & Co. Avill be amph^ rewarded for their im- 
 mense outlay. I here found a millwright (Mr. R. A. Randall) from 
 Scituate, R.I.* 
 
 THE VALENCA FACTORY. 
 
 After a sumptuous and truly tropical dinner, the gentleman- 
 portion of our party sallied forth for an excursion, the end of 
 which was to find a suitable place to sketch the immense factory. 
 
 * It seemed truly out of place, in this distant corner of the world, to read the 
 names of machinists of the United States, whose workmanship was here benefiting 
 a people speaking another tongue. The following are some of the names which 
 I copied from inscriptions on the machinery: — C. Lewis, New York, drilling-lathe; 
 "D. Dicks, Hadley Falls, Mass., antifriction press or punch; S. Jones, Boston, im- 
 proved shears; C. F. Pike, Providence, R.I., iron-planer; J. & S. W. Putnam & Co., 
 Fitchburg, Mass., bolt-cutter. There were other machines, by J. Peck, Coventry 
 Factory, (Anthony's,) R.I., and by Thayer, Houghton & Co., Worcester, Mass. 
 
500 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 The paint de vue was well chosen ; but each of us carried away a 
 piece of the foreground, in an innumerable quantity of garapatos, 
 which small insects — resembling- very diminutive spiders — clung 
 to our garments with a most tenacious hold. Each one of these 
 little fellows produces a boil; and, in some parts of Brazil, cattle 
 in a long dry season — the insect cannot survive a drenching — 
 have sometimes perished by the sores thus created. I hastened to 
 the house, plunged into a bath of hot water, and then was rubbed 
 down with a pint of rum, — more of the article, by three gills, 
 than ever before had been applied to my p)hysique, either exter- 
 nally^ or internally. This eflf'ectually stopped the depredations 
 which had begun. 
 
 Earl}'- the next morning, Mr. Eandall and I went to the spot 
 where two of our countrymen were buried. Three Americans 
 came out together, and he alone was left. He feelingly recounted 
 to me the circumstances of their death as we passed up a narrow 
 path to their resting-place. The graves were under the deep shade 
 of two jaca-trees, and over them small obelisks had been erected. 
 It was to me a solemn scene in that early morning hour. 
 
 After bi-eakfast, Mr. Gillmer, Mr. Pointdextei-, a young Pole, and 
 myself, went up the river to see an upper waterfall. The shrubs, 
 the dead stumps, and- the lofty trees on the banks seemed bloom- 
 ing with orchidaceous plants. Eich cabinet-woods also abound in 
 the forest. At Bahia, the Visconde Fiaz and Senhor Viana (brother 
 of the chief collector of customs at Rio) showed me, at their re- 
 sidences, some of the finest specimens of furniture, made from 
 native woods, that I ever saw. We finally reached the fall, which 
 resembles a miniature Niagara. The river Una here pours over a 
 ledge of rocks in such volume that it has been computed there is 
 enough water-power to drive one hundred factories of five thou- 
 sand spindles each. 
 
 On our return from our visit to the fabrica, Ave accepted the 
 hospitality of Senhor Bernardini, who gave us a sjilendid dinner. 
 
 We were accompanied to the city by Colonel Carson, whom I 
 found a most interesting man of intelligence and common sense. 
 His hfe had been a wandering one. He came out to Brazil to 
 die; but the delicious climate made him a new man, and he had 
 truly "gone ahead," — building saw-mills, light-houses, factories, 
 
Cottons from "York Mills," Saco, Maine. 501 
 
 and had been abroad, for the Provincial Government, to investi- 
 gate the sugar- phxntations of the West Indies and the States on 
 the Mexican Gulf, for the j)urpose of promoting the growth of 
 sugar in Bahia. He gave me much information concerning the 
 trade that might be between the United States and Bahia. In that 
 second port of Brazil we have been annually losing ground. But 
 many articles — for instance, cottons, hardwai'e, leather, soajDS, &e. 
 &c. — might be introduced with advantage. The specimens of 
 leather from J. Chadwick, Esq., of Newark, — the same found in 
 the shoes of Mr. Bo^-nton, — and the samples of cutlery and carving 
 sent out by Mr. Garside, also of Newark, attracted, b}^ the excel- 
 lence of their quality, much attention at Rio; and the same may 
 be said .of the rojDC and rope-yarn manufactured at the Excelsior 
 Works by Mr. H. Webber & Co. All of these ai'ticles, and many 
 others, if properly managed, might be exported to Brazil, whose 
 trade would really be worth as much as all the remainder of South 
 America if we only had it in our possession. Formerly, large 
 quantities of common drillings were exported from the United 
 States to Bahia, from the York Mills, Saco, Maine, and were held in 
 great favor by the Brazilians. This article was actually imitated 
 at Manchester, England, and sent out to Bahia Avith the stamp, 
 "York Mills, Saco, Maine," and sold as such. But, though well 
 sized and fair-looking, it soon proved worthless and fell into dis- 
 repute, and the Brazilians to this day believe that the Yankees 
 cheated them. In England, common cottons cannot be made 
 equal to those manufactured in the United States, because the 
 price of the raw article is too high, and the best cotton is con- 
 sumed for fine goods, and only the "waste" for the coarser; 
 whereas, in the American factories as good a raw article is used 
 for the coarse cloth as for the finer textures. 
 
 Brazil annually consumes many million yards of cotton cloths, 
 both plain and printed. She only produces about three million 
 yards : the rest must be supplied from abroad. We honor fair 
 and honorable competition ; we admire the perseverance of John 
 Bull in all that is good, and would have our own merchants 
 imitate the latter quality and that only, and endeavor to have at 
 least a fair share in the trade with Brazil, so that we may not 
 annually have a cash-bill of fifteen millions of dollars against us 
 
502 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 when our productions are needed by the growing Empire of the 
 South. Let our far-seeing commercial men turn their attention in 
 this direction, and, by judicious measures, secure a foothold. 
 
 Just after niglitfall our little steamer was again at the wharf, 
 and all returned home, delighted with the excursion to Yalen^a. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of Bahia, it becomes me to mention — 
 without entering into particulars — that my Bible-labors there, as 
 elsewhere throughout the Empire, were prospered ; and I pray 
 that the seed sown, where were Henry Martyn's first missionary 
 efibrts on foreign ground, may be prospered bj' Him who openeth 
 and no man shutteth, and who takes care of Ilis own word. 
 
 Note for 1866. — I profit by this space to mention that some of the most import- 
 ant explorations have been made since 1855, — as that of the province of Ceard, 
 under the direction of Srs. Frei Allamao, Capanema, Lagos, and others, consti- 
 tuting a scientific commission. Several important rivers have been explored and 
 mapped. The Purus, that large Amazonian affluent, is perhaps more unknown 
 than the river Nile. Sr. Herculano Ferreira e Penha, when President of Parji, 
 called particular attention to this river in one of his annual messages, (since 
 translated by Dr. Spruce, the Upper-Amazonian traveller, and published by the 
 Royal Geographical Society.) In 1862, Major J. M. daS. Coutiuho, in the steamer 
 Pirajd, ascended this river, taking soundings, &c., for seven hundred miles. This 
 is remarkable; for the affluents of the Amazon are generally interrupted in their 
 n.avigation at a comparatively short distance from their embouchures. It is believed 
 that the Purtis is the " Madre de Dios" of the old Spaniards, and that by this river 
 Brazilians can go to the borders of Bolivia. An English explorer, i\Ir. Chandless, 
 June 15, IStiG, reached even a higher point on the Pur6s than Coutinho attained. 
 I regret tliat want of space prevents my giving an extended account of other 
 labors by Coutinho, Halfeld, (whose survey of the S. Francisco is a magnum oj}us,) 
 and other river-explorers like Dr. Couto de Magalhaes, who in 1863 descended 
 the Araguaya from near Goyaz to Para. 
 
 In Bahia is a quartette of scientific men to whoni the savavts of England, France, 
 and America are greatly indebted ; viz. Dr. Wucherer, Professor in the JNIedical Colleiie 
 of Bahia, who has made many contributions to the British Museum, department of 
 Natural History ; M. Brunei, a Frenchman, who has explored the Amazon, the San 
 Francisco, and the Parnahiba ; Rev. Dr. Nicliolay, the physical geographer, now rector 
 of the English Chapel at Bahia, who has amassed important geographical data in this 
 portion of Brazil ; and Sr. Antonio Laccrda, Jr., a native Brazilian, educated in the 
 United States and France, an enthusiastic lover of natui-al science in general, and well 
 kno^vn iu Europe and America as a most accomplished entomologist. 
 
CHAPTEE XXV. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BAHIA THE VAMPIEE-BAT — HIS MANNER OF ATTACK THE 
 
 BITTEN NEGRO ANNOYANCES MAGNIFIED — ANACONDAS ONE THAT SWALLOWED 
 
 A HORSE THE MARMOSET PROVINCE OF ALAGOAZ THE REPUBLIC OF PAL- 
 MARES PERNAMBUCO THE AMENITIES OF QUARANTINE-LIFE IMPROVEMENTS 
 
 AT THE RECIFE PECULIARITIES OF PEKNAMBUCAN HOUSES BEAUTIFUL PANG- 
 KAMA VARIOUS DISTRICTS OF THE CITY A BIBLE-CHRISTIAN — EXTRAORDINARY 
 
 FANATICISM OF THE SEBASTIANISTS — COMMERCE OF PERNAMBUCO THE POPULA- 
 TION OF THE INTERIOR THE SERTANEJO AND MARKET-SCENE THE SUGAR AND 
 
 COTTON MART THE JANGADA PARAHIBA DO NORTE NATAL CEARA — THE 
 
 . PAVIOLA TEMPERATURE AND PERIODICAL RAINS THE CITY OF MARANIIAM 
 
 JUDGE PETIT'S DESCRIPTION THE MONTARIA DEPARTURE. 
 
 'i\'\\\4 'iWi^rA^il' the Xorth ! Leav- 
 ing the pleasant city of Bahia, we again 
 turn our faces toward the Amazon. Our 
 steamer glides rapidly over a summer sea, and, though we visit 
 province after province, we cannot dwell long upon their scenery 
 and condition, for in both they are very similar to some of the 
 lesser divisions of the Empire which we have already considered. 
 The monotony of the voyage is broken up by tinkling guitars, 
 merry singing, and eloquent speaking. Wo have embr^-o states- 
 men on board; military officers with fierce moustaches and high- 
 
 503 
 
604 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 sounding titles; medical students returning to Sergipe, Alagoaz, 
 Pernambuco, and Parahiba; witty, sallow, dirty sertanejos; black- 
 eyed senhoras; and two or three tonsured, gambling padres. All 
 form a fit audience; and the vociferous apoiados, apoiadidissimoSy 
 encourage the maiden efforts of the orators, and beguile the time 
 as we steam along the low coqueii'o-lined coast. 
 
 A hazy bank of fog hanging in the distant horizon indicates the 
 mouth of the great Pvio San Francisco, and the boundary-line 
 between the provinces of Sergipe and Alagoaz. Sergipe is thinly 
 populated : but in the eastern portion a considerable quantity of 
 suo-ar and tobacco is cultivated; while the western districts are 
 devoted chiefly to the rearing of cattle. 
 
 In another chapter I have spoken of the annoyances to which 
 herds are sometimes subject from the little chigoes. The younger 
 portions of the herds have in some places a more formidable enemy 
 
 in the huge vampire-bat. The 
 ov\mer of large possessions in the 
 northwestern part of Goyaz said 
 he could not rear cattle with any 
 success or profit, from the havoc 
 committed among his calves by 
 the winged demons the vam- 
 pires. I have often had my own 
 horses and mules bled and sucked 
 by these sanguinary j^hyllostoriiina. 
 The}^ abound from Paraguay to 
 the Isthmus of Darien ; and the 
 reports of early travellers and the figurative language of poets, 
 so long discredited, ai'e found to be much nearer the truth than 
 the world has believed. Morning after morning have I seen 
 beasts of burden, once strong, go staggering, from loss of blood 
 drawn during the night by these hideous monsters. In almost 
 every instance they had taken the life-current from between the 
 shoulders, and, when they had finished their mui'derous work, the 
 stream had for some time continued to flow. The extremities, 
 however, are the usual points of attack; and the ears of a horse, 
 the toes of a man, and the comb of a cock, are choice raorceaux 
 for the display of the vampire's phlebotomizing propensities. 
 
 THE VAMPIRE-BAT. 
 
The Vampire-Bat. 
 
 505 
 
 The exact manner by which this bat manages to make an inci- 
 sion has long been a matter of conjecture and dispute. The 
 tongue, which is capable of considerable extension, is furnished at 
 its extremity with a number of papillae, which appear to be so 
 arranged as to form an organ of suction, and their lips have also 
 tubercles symmetrically arranged. These are the organs by which 
 it is certain the bat draws the life-blood from man and beast, and 
 some have contended that the rouo-h tong-ue is the instrument em- 
 ployed for abrading the skin, so as to enable it the more readily to 
 draw its sustenance from the living animal. Others have supposed 
 that the vampire used one of its long, sharp, canine teeth to make 
 the incision, which is as small as that mad6 by a fine needle. Mr. 
 Wallace says that he was twice bitten, — once on the toe, and a 
 second time on the tip of the nose. "In neither case," Avrites that 
 explorer, "did I feel any thing, but awoke after the operation was 
 completed. The wound is a small round hole, the bleeding of which 
 it is very difficult to 
 stop. It can hardlj' be 
 a bite, as that would 
 awake the sleeper : it 
 seems most probable 
 that it is either a 
 succession of gentle 
 scratches with the 
 sharp edge of the 
 teeth, gradually wear- 
 ing away the skin, or 
 a triturating with the 
 point of the tongue 
 till the same effect is 
 produced. My brother 
 was frequently bitten 
 by them J and his opi- 
 nion was that the bat applied one of its long canine teeth to the 
 part, and then flew round and round on that as a centre, till the 
 tooth, acting as an awl, bored a small hole, — the wings of the bat 
 serving at the same time to fan the patient into a deeper slumber. 
 He several times awoke while the bat was at work, and, though 
 
 HEAD OF THE VAMPIRE-BAT, SIZE OF LIFE. 
 
506 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of course the creature immediately flew away, it was his impression 
 
 that the operation was conducted in the manner above described," 
 
 There is much in the dental arrangement of these iihyllostoma to 
 
 make this seem plausible. The molar teeth of the true vampire 
 
 or spectre bat, are of the most carnivorous character, — the first 
 
 being short and almost plain, and the others sharp and cutting 
 
 and terminating in three and four points. Notwithstanding this, 
 
 that most accurate naturalist and observer — Dr. Gardner — is of the 
 
 opinion that it wounds its victim in a manner entirely different 
 
 from the foregoing description. He says that, 
 
 "Having carefully examined, in many cases, the wounds thus made in horses, 
 mules, pigs, and other animals, — observations that have been confirmed by informa- 
 tion received from the inhabitants of the northern part of Brazil, — I am led to be- 
 lieve that the puncture which the vampire makes in the skin of animals is effected 
 by the sharp, hooked nail of its thumb, and that from the wound thus made it ab- 
 stracts the blood by the suctorial powers of its lips and tongue." 
 
 Some of these bats measure two feet between the tips of their 
 wings. There are some persons whom a vampire will not touch, 
 while others are constantly victimized. The alligator-riding 
 Waterton states that for eleven months ho slept alone in the loft 
 of a wood-cutter's abandoned house in the forest, and, though the 
 vampires came in and out every night, and hovered over his 
 hammoclv, yet he could never have the pleasure of being bitten, 
 — which amusement he doubtless would have foregone if he had 
 liad the experience of Mr. Wallace, who says that a wound on the 
 tip of the toe is very painful, rendering a shoe unbearable for 
 several days, and "forces one to the conclusion that, after the 
 first time for the curiosity of the thing, to be bitten by a bat is 
 very disagreeable." 
 
 There are instances in Northern Brazil where individuals for 
 whom the bat entertained a great predilection had to be removed 
 to a different portion of the country, where the bloodthirsty ani- 
 mals did not abound. One of Mr. Wallace's party — an old negro — 
 was constantly annoyed with them. He was bitten almost every 
 night; and, though there were frequentl}^ half a dozen persons in 
 the room, he Avould be the- party favored by their attentions. 
 "Once," Mr. Wallace writes, "he came to us with a doleful counte- 
 nance, telling us he thought the bats meant to eat him up quite, 
 for, having covered up his hands and feet in a blanket, they had 
 
Annoyances Magnified. 
 
 507 
 
 THE ELECTRIC EEL. 
 
 descended beneath his hammock of open network, and, attacking 
 the most prominent part of his person, had bitten him through a 
 hole in his trousers!" 
 
 Wliile enumerating the various insects, reptiles, and vicious 
 animals of Brazil, the reader who has not visited that land would 
 be led to the belief that it is impossible to stir a foot without 
 being affectionately entwined by a serpent, sprung upon by a 
 jaguar, or bitten by a rattlesnake. In your fancy every bush 
 swarms with chigoes ready to en- 
 graft their stock upon your legs, 
 every cranny contains a scorpion 
 waiting to ensconce himself in your 
 pantaloons, and every pool is filled 
 with electric eels prepared to give you 
 a shocking reception. I can only say 
 that, when travelling on the sea-coast 
 
 and in the interior, I never was more annoyed by insects than I had 
 been in the southwestern portion of the United States; and that, 
 with a moderate degree of care, you may journey fifty days with- 
 out experiencing any thing more deadly than the 
 bit-e of a mosquito. The sand-flies call forth more 
 complaints from naturalists and travellers than do 
 either serpents, scorpions, or centi2)edes; and yet all 
 of these are more or less found throughout the 
 interior. But difficulties only seem insurmountable 
 in the distance: they disappear when looked boldly 
 in the face, and do not affect the tourist and the 
 naturalist one-tenth as much in reality as in antici- 
 pation. 
 
 In this connection a few words may be devoted 
 to the anaconda, the largest of the ophidian family. 
 I confess myself to have been incredulous in regard to the 
 powers and capacities of this huge reptile until I went to Brazil, 
 and I have no doubt that I shall, in the opinion of some, add a few 
 pages to the innumerable "snake-stories." 
 
 The enormous anaconda, {Eunectes murinus,) or sucuruju of the 
 natives, (a portrait of which forms the initial letter of this chapter,) 
 inhabits Tropical America, and particularly haunts the dense forests 
 
 THE SCORPION. 
 
508 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 near the margin of rivers. The boa-constrictor, the jiboa of the 
 Indians, is smaller and more terrestrial. The first of these crea- 
 tui'cs which I saw was a young one belonging to a gentleman in 
 the province of S. Paulo. I afterward saw one in the province 
 of Eio de Janeiro that measured twenty-five feet. Mr. Nesbitt, 
 the enii-incer who took the Peruvian Government steamers to the 
 iijjper affluents of the Amazon, informed me that he shot, on the 
 banks of the Huallaga, an anaconda which measured twenty-six feet 
 seven inches. An Italian physician at Camj)inas (S. Paulo) gave 
 me an account of the manner in which the sucuruju, or anaconda, 
 took his prey. 
 
 The giant ophidian lies in wait by the river-side, where quadru- 
 peds of all kinds are likely to frequent to quench their thirst. He 
 patiently waits until some animal draws within reach, when, with a 
 rapidity almost incredible, the monster fastens himself to the neck 
 of his victim, coils round it, and crushes it to death. After the un- 
 fortunate animal has been reduced to a shapeless mass by the pres- 
 sure of the snake, its destroyer prepares to swallow it by sliming 
 it over with a viscid secretion. When the anaconda has gulped 
 down a heifer (by commencing with the tail and hind-feet brought 
 together) he lies torpid for a month, until his enormous meal is 
 digested, and then sallies forth for another. The doctor added 
 that the sucuruju does not attempt the deglutition and digestion of 
 the horns, but that he lets them protrude from his mouth until 
 they fall off by decay. It had been said by some casual observers 
 that the anaconda dies after swallowing a large animal, that the 
 buzzards seen near him eat him up; but the doctor added that 
 close observation showed that this statement was entirely erroneous. 
 However, the vultures were always the close attendants of the 
 sucuruju, to aid him in the delivering of his faeces. As to the 
 amount of credence due to the statements of Dr. B., relative 
 to the horns of the swallowed animal and the peculiar mid- 
 wifery of the buzzards, I leave the reader to form his own opinion; 
 but the facts are incontrovertible in regard to the capacity of the 
 anaconda to swallow animals whose diameter is many times 
 greater than its own. Of all the travellers and explorers whose 
 writings I have read, Wallace and Gardner are the most raoderate 
 in their accounts as eye-witnesses, and are most particular to re- 
 
The Snake that Swallowed a Horse. 509 
 
 cord nothing of which they were not fully persuaded after patient 
 and careful investigation. Mr. Wallace says "it is an undis- 
 puted foct that they devour cattle and horses." In the province 
 of Goyaz, Dr. Gardner came to the fazenda of Sape, situated at the 
 foot of the Serra de Santa Brida, near the entrance to a small 
 valley. This plantation belonged to Lieutenant Lagoeira. Dr. G. 
 remarks that in this valley and throughout this province the ana- 
 conda attains an enormous size, sometimes reaching forty feet in 
 length : the largest which he saw measured thirty-seven feet, 
 but was not alive. It had been taken under the following circum- 
 stances : — 
 
 "Some weeks before our arrival at Sape," writes Dr. G, "tlie favorite riding- 
 horse of Seiihor Lagoeira, wliich bad been put out to pasture not far from the 
 house, could not be found, although strict search was made for it all over the 
 fazenda. Shortly after this one of his vaqueiros, (herdsmen,) in going through the 
 wood by the side of a small stream, saw an enormous sucurujti susj^ended in the 
 fork of a tree which hung over the water. It was dead, but had evidently been 
 floated down alive by a recent flood, and, being in an inert state, it had not been 
 able to extricate itself from the fork before the waters fell. It was dragged out 
 to the open country by two horses, and was found to measure thirty-seven feet in 
 length. On opening it, the bones of a horse in a somewhat broken condition, and 
 the flesh in a half-digested state, were found within it: the bones of the head were 
 uninjured. From these circumstances we concluded that the boa had swallowed the 
 hoi'se entire. In all kinds of snakes the capacity for swallowing is prodigious. I 
 have often seen one not thicker than my thumb swallow a frog as large as my fist; 
 and I once killed a rattlesnake about four feet long, and of no great thickness, 
 which had swallowed not less than three large frogs. I have also seen a very slender 
 snake that frequents the roofs of houses swallow an entire bat three times its own 
 thickness. If such be the case with these smaller kinds, it is not to be wondered 
 at that one thirty-seven feet long should be able to swallow a horse, particularly 
 when it is known that previously to doing so it breaks the bones of the animal by 
 coiling itself round it, and afterward lubricates it with a slimy matter, which it baa 
 the power of secreting in its mouth." 
 
 Near Sape many of the marmoset monkeys abound, and a very 
 small species, sometimes called the ouistiti, {Jacchus auritua,) is 
 exceedingly nimble, and not wanting in beauty. 
 
 The Brazilian girls are fond of pets; and, among others, a great 
 favorite is this ouistiti, which is rarely ever seen "out of Brazil^ 
 even in the best zoological collections. It has a skin like chinchilla 
 fur, and its face presents none of the repulsive features of other 
 monkej^s. These little animals become very tame and sleep ujwn 
 the lap or shoulders of their mistress. Their actions are most 
 graceful and rapid. Two that a friend of mine embarked for the 
 
510 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 United States could mount the ship's ropes ten times as rapidly 
 as the nimblest sailor. If birds came on board, they hunted them 
 from rope to rope, and passed along under the spar upon which 
 their victim sat, and then pounced upon it with certain aim. In 
 their native forests thc}^ are very fond of insects, which they catch 
 with great expertness. They are excessively timid when roughly 
 handled: one of the two referred to was teased by the sailors, and 
 in consequence died in convulsions. It was p)itiful to see the other 
 
 THE MARMOSET. 
 
 look at himself in a glass, making a plaintive noise and licking the 
 reflection of his own face. They were so small that a square cigar- 
 box, the length of one "Havana," contained them both. "With 
 great care the surviving ouistiti was kept alive through a Northern 
 winter. His food was bread, sponge-biscuit, apples, and now and 
 then a chicken's neck or a mouse. It was curious to see him 
 devour the latter. He began at the snout and carefully jjushed 
 back the skin, eating the bones and every thing until he reached 
 the tail, which was all that he left inside the skin. His last effort 
 was to aid in erecting a parsonage, by being exhibited at a fair for 
 that purpose. But his benevolence was too much for him : the little 
 fellow pined and died, after having endured a succession of fits; and 
 his end was doubtless hastened by the breath of his numerous 
 
The Province of Alagoas. 511 
 
 visitors, and by an escape of gas in the chamber where lie was 
 kept J for the deHcate monkeys in the London Zoological Gardens 
 were all killed by being in a room with a stove. An open grate 
 was substituted, and their successors escajDed. 
 
 Next to Sergipe in our northward route is the small province of 
 Alagoas. It derives its name from the lake — or, strictly speak- 
 ing, the inlet — on which stands its old capital, the city of Alagoas. 
 The principal seaport of the province is Maceio. Into this port we 
 entered, after a passage of about thirty-six hours from Bahia. As 
 we bore up to land in the morning after our second night at sea, 
 we found the coast very flat, sometimes exhibiting a sandy beach, 
 and anon banks of eighty or ninety feet elevation, denominated, 
 from their prevailing color, the Eed Clifi's. "VVe approached so near 
 these cliffs as to perceive distinctly their stratification, which 
 resembled successive layers of brick. 
 
 The most favored island of the Southern seas can hardly present 
 a more lovely aspect tlian does the harbor of Maceio. The port is 
 formed by a reef of rocks visible at ebb-tide, which runs north and 
 south for a sufficient distance in a right line, and seems to form an 
 angle with an extreme point of land on the north. From the same 
 point the beach sweeps inward in the form of a semicircle. The 
 sand on this beach exhibits a snowy whiteness, as if bleached by 
 the foam of the ocean-waves that unceasingly dash upon it. 
 
 A little back from the water is a single line of white houses, em- 
 bowered here and there by groves of majestic coqueiros, whose 
 noble fruit, clustered amid their branching leaves, might be 
 thought to resemble jewels set among the plumes of a cox'onet. 
 Upon a hill-side, some distance in the rear, stands the city, con- 
 taining a population of about six thousand. 
 
 My visit to Maceio was most agreeable, connected as it was with 
 the S3'mpathizing Brazilians and others who were glad to receive 
 the Word, and who gave me many pleasant assurances that the 
 sojourn of my co-laborer and predecessor had not been forgotten. 
 One old man, with teai*s in his eyes, referred to Dr. Kidder's visit, 
 and aided me in the dissemination of the Truth. 
 
 Maceio is the depot of large quantities of cotton and sugar which 
 are brought down from the interior. Good brown sugar can be 
 purchased at Maceio for two dollars and fifty cents per hundred- 
 
512 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 weight, and the planters admit that they can raise sugar at a profit 
 at a market-price of less than two dollars per hundredweight. 
 
 This province, fifteen years ago, was in a constant state of 
 turmoil; but for the last ten years it has settled down into quiet- 
 ness, and is advancing with the general improvement of the Empire. 
 
 After leaving Maceio, we j)ass along a coast interesting in the 
 history of the past. Before us we see Cape St. Augustine, which 
 was the first portion of the New World discovered south of the 
 equator. Our track is that over which, in early times, sailed Caven- 
 dish and Lancaster, the great English freebooters, who devastated 
 the Brazilian coast-towns in 1591 and '93. Here, too, passed the 
 ships of Lord Cochrane and Admirals Taylor and Jewett, two Eng- 
 lishmen and an American in the service of Brazil, who by their 
 bravery and skill defeated the Portuguese fleets and did much to 
 secure the Northern cities to the new regime. 
 
 In the interior, about sixty miles from Porto Calvo, there was a 
 curious communit}^, hidden away amid groves of palm-trees, having 
 a regular military and priestly government, and known as the Re- 
 pvblic of Palmares. It seems almost like romance to read of a set- 
 tlement composed of fugitive slaves, who were perfectly organized, 
 and from time to time Avent forth on predatory excursions, carrying 
 off treasure and cattle, and taking captive the wives and daughters 
 of the Portuguese and then exacting a heavy ransom. 
 
 They had villages and towns; and, in addition to their marauding 
 sallies, they carried on a regular trade with some of the colonies. 
 They flourished for sixty years; and such, at length, became their 
 audacity that regular war was declared against them, and for months 
 the Portuguese sustained the severest contest that they had ever 
 been obliged to undertake west of the coast. The little State was 
 heroically defended; but when, after it had gallantly held out 
 against great odds, cannon were brought to the aid of the besiegers, 
 the Eepublic of Palmares fell. When all hope was gone, the leader 
 and the most resolute of his followers retired to the summit of a 
 high rock Avithin the enclosure, and, preferring death to slavery, 
 threw themselves from the precipice, — men worthy of a better fate 
 for their courage and their cause. 
 
 In its consequences to the vanquished, this victory resembled those 
 of the inhuman wars of antiquity. The survivors of all ages and of 
 
The Republic of Palmares. 
 
 513 
 
 either sex were brought away as slaves. A fifth of the men were 
 selected for the Crown : the rest were divided among the captors as 
 their booty, and all who were thought likely to fly, were trans- 
 ported to distant parts of Brazil, or to Portugal. The women and 
 children remained in Pernambuco, being thus sej^arated forever 
 from their husbands and their fathers. 
 
 Twelve hours after we had left Maceio, the towers and domes of 
 the Eeeife, or Pernambuco, appeared, like those of Venice, to be 
 gradually rising from the sparkling water. Far to our right, on a 
 bold and verdant hill, we could descry the suburb called Olinda, 
 (translated the beautiful,') seeming like a rich mosaic of white towers, 
 vermilion roofs, bright green palm-trees, and bananeiros. It is, 
 however, in this case distance that lends enchantment to the 
 view; for Olinda, whose inhabitants once looked down in contempt 
 
 r 
 r 
 
 THE JANGADA, AND THE ENTRANCE TO PERNAMBUCO. 
 
 upon their commercial neighbors of the Pecife, is now in decay. 
 
 The law-school, with its three hundred students, has been tran.s- 
 
 ferred to Pernambuco, and this once valiant capital of the 
 
 equatorial colonies of Portugal is now going rapidly to decay. 
 
 Olinda deserves to be regarded as S. Vincente, and the two 
 
 places may be considered as exhibiting the classic remains of the 
 
 33 
 
514 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 colonial system of Portugal. Ol'nda, however, reminds us nearly 
 as much of the Dutch as it does of the Portuguese, being known 
 in the annals of Holland as the ancient Mauricius, upon which the 
 ambitious Count of Nassau staked his fortune and his fame. 
 
 As we drew near to Pernambuco, the warehouses and the ship- 
 ping presented the features of a large commercial town, and the 
 resemblance between it and the silent Queen of the Adriatic no 
 longer forced itself upon the beholder. The waves outside of the 
 curious reef, (recife,) or natural breakwater, were dotted with 
 lateen-sailed jangadas or catamarans, and the proprietors of these 
 dancing rigged rafts seemed literally at sea "on a log." 
 
 Our steamer came proudly up to the fierce little fort and white 
 pharo that (so low is the reef) appeared to rise from the water. 
 We anchored on the seaward side of the fortress and awaited with 
 anxious expectation the visit of the health-boat. Every passenger, 
 from the wild matuto (forester) and sertanejo to the dignified 
 medico and the vain officer of the Imperial army, was rejoicing at 
 his approaching liberation. The health-boat came bobbing around 
 the fort, and we had the satisfaction of hearing that we should be 
 quarantined for ten days on an island four miles west of the city. 
 There was really no necessity for this, for our health-bill from 
 Maceio was immaculate. It is needless to narrate our adventures 
 in getting to the quarantine; our navigation on a jangada; how 
 fifty pejr-ons were quartered in four rooms (comfortable for eight 
 individuals) which would have been unbearable except for the 
 capital ventilation through the arched tiles; how merry we were, 
 and contented, under the circumstances; how we were refreshed 
 by cocoanut-milk and bracing breezes; how I had opportunities 
 for doing good; how we were all liberated and a hundred more 
 put into our places; and how kind was my reception (when I was 
 permitted inside of Pernambuco) by Mr. Samuel Johnson and Mr. 
 Hitch, (the heads of two houses, English and American.) All this 
 must be unwritten history. As has been said of a traveller's delay 
 in Italy, it may be said of this detention at Pernambuco, in logical 
 language there was no causa causans; but the causa sine qua non 
 was that we Avere in Brazil, where the " brief authority" of officials 
 is sometimes notoriously overbearing. 
 
 Pernambuco is the third city of Brazil, and is the greatest sugar- 
 
The City of Pernambuco. 515 
 
 mart in the Empire. Its population is variously estimated at 
 eighty thousand and one hundred thousand. In all respects Per- 
 namhuco is a thriving and a progressive city. Those who remem- 
 ber its former unpaved streets and its other inconveniences for 
 comfort and conveyance would now be surprised at the various 
 changes and improvements. Water-works have been constructed, 
 good bridges erected, and extensive quays have been formed ou 
 the margins of the rivers that would serve, according to Mr. Ilad- 
 field, as models for the conservators of "Father Thames." Printing- 
 presses send forth dailies and weeklies, besides from time to time 
 respectable-sized books and Government documents. Education is 
 looking up, whether we consider the common schools, the collegios, 
 or the flourishing institution for legal instruction, which rivals that 
 of San Paulo. 
 
 The cit}' is divided into three parishes or districts, called, seve- 
 rally, S. Pedro de Gonsalves or Recife, S. Antonio, and Boa Vista, 
 which are connected by bridges and good roads. 
 
 Man}' of the houses of Pernambuco are built in a style unknown 
 in other parts of Brazil. A description of one where my prede- 
 cessor was entertained by a friend may serve "as a specimen of the 
 style referred to : — • 
 
 "It was six stories high. The first or ground floor was denominated the arma- 
 zem, and was occupied by male servants at night ; the second furnished apartments 
 for the counting-room, &c. ; the third and fourth for parlors and lotlsring-rooms ; 
 the fifth for dining-rooms; and the sixth for a kitchen. Readers of domestic habits 
 will perceive that one special advantage of having a kitchen located in the attic 
 arises from the upward tendency of the smoke and effluvia universally produced by 
 culinary operations. A disadvantage, however, inseparable from the arrangement, 
 is the necessity of conveying various heavy articles up so many flights of stairs, 
 AVater might be mentioned, for example, which, in the absence of all mechanical 
 contrivances for such an object, was carried up on the heads of negroes. Any one 
 will perceive that the liability of mistake, in endeavoring to preserve the equili- 
 brium of each vessel of water thus transported, exposed the lower portion of the 
 house to the danger of a flood. Surmounting the sixth story, and constituting, in 
 one sense, the seventh, was a splendid observatory, glazed above and on all sides. 
 
 "The prospect from this observatory was extended and interesting in the ex- 
 treme. It was just such a place as the stranger should always seek in order to 
 receive correct impressions of the locality and environs of the city. His gaze from 
 such an elevation will not fail to rest with interest upon the broad bay of Pernam- 
 buco, stretching, with a moderate but regular incurvation of the coast, between the 
 promontory of Olinda and Cape St. Augustine, thirty miles below. This bay is gene- 
 rally adorned with a great number of jangadas, which, with their broad lateen sails, 
 •aake no mean appearance. Besides the commerce of the port itself, vessels often 
 
516 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 appear in the offing, bound on distant voyages, both north and south. No porl is 
 more easy of access. A vessel bound to either the Indian or the Pacific Ocean, or 
 on her passage homeward to either the United States or Europe, may, with but a 
 slight deviation from her best course, put into Peruambuco. She may come to an 
 anchor in tlic Lameirao, or outer harbor, and hold communication with the shore, 
 either to obtain advices or refreshments, and resume her voyage at pleasure, with- 
 out becoming subject to port-charges. This is very convenient for whaling-ships 
 and South Sea traders. In order to discharge or receive cargo, vessels are required 
 to come within the reef and to conform to usual port-regulations. 
 
 •'Men-of-war seldom remain long here. None of large draught can pass the bar, 
 and those that can are required — probably in view of the danger of accidents when 
 so close to the city — to deposit their powder at the fort. Few naval commanders 
 are willing to yield to such a requirement; while, at the same time, their berth in 
 the Lameirao cannot be relied on for either quietness or safety. The powerful 
 winds and heavy roll of the sea are frequently suificieut to part the strongest cables. 
 These are sufficient reasons why Pernambuco is not a favorite naval station either 
 for Brazil or for foreign nations. The commercial shipping is under full view from 
 the observatory, yet it is too near at hand and too densely crowded together to 
 make an imposing appearance. 
 
 "Olinda, seen from this distance, must attract the attention and the admiration 
 of every one. Of this city set upon a hill, one is at a loss whether to admire most 
 the whitened houses and massive temples, or the luxuriant foliage intei'spersed 
 among them, and in which those edifices on the hill-side seem to be partially 
 buried. From this point a line of highlands sweeps inward with a tolerably regular 
 arc, terminating at Cape St. Augustine, and forming a semilunar reconcave, analo- 
 gous to that of Baliia. The entire summit of these highlands is crowned with green 
 forests and foliage. Indeed, from the outermost range of vision to the very pre- 
 cincts of the city, throughout the extended plain, circumscribed by five-sixths of 
 the imagined arc, scarcely an opening appears to the eye, although, in fact, the 
 country overlooked is populous and cultivated. Numbers of buildings, also, within 
 the suburbs of the city, are overtowered and wholly or partially hidden by lofty palms, 
 mangueiras, cajueiros, and other trees. The interval between Recife and Olinda is 
 in striking contrast to this appearance. It is a perfectly barren bank of sand, a 
 narrow beach, upon one side of which the ocean breaks, while on the other side, 
 only a few rods distant and nearly parallel, runs a branch of the Beberibe River. 
 
 " At a distance varying from one-fourth to half a mile from the shore runs the 
 bank of rocks already mentioned as extending along the greater portion of the 
 northern coast of Brazil. Its top is scarcely visible at high-tide, being covered 
 with the surf, which dashes over it in sheets of foam. At low-water it is left dry, 
 and stands like an artificial wall, with, a surface sufficiently even to form a beautiful 
 promenade in the very midst of the sea. This natural parapet is approached by the 
 aid of boats. It is found to be from two to five rods in thickness. Its edges are a 
 little worn and fractured, but both its sides are perpendicular to a great depth. 
 The rock, in its external appearance, is of a dark-brown color, and, when broken, 
 it is found to be composed of a very hard species of sandstone of a yellow com- 
 plexion, in which numerous bivalves are embedded in a state of complete preserva- 
 tion. Various species of small sea-shells may be collected in the water-worn cavi- 
 ties of the surface. At several points deep winding fissures extend through a portion 
 of the reef; but in general its appearance is quite regular, — much more so, doubt- 
 less, than any artificial wall could be after hundreds of years' exposure to the wear- 
 
Various Districts of the City. 5.17 
 
 ing of the ocean-waves. The abrupt opening in this reef, by which an entrnnce is 
 offered to vessels, is scarcely less remarkable than the protection which is secured 
 to them when once behind this rocky bulwark. 
 
 " Opposite the northern extremity of the city, as though a breach had been arti- 
 ficially cut, the rock opens, leaving a passage of sufficient depth and width to admit 
 ships of sixteen feet draught at high-water. Great skill is requisite, however, to 
 conduct them safely in ; for no sooner have they passed the reef than it becomes 
 necessary to tack ship and keep close under the lee of the rock, in order to avoid 
 the danger of running aground. 
 
 "Close to this opening and on the extremity of the reef stands the fort, built 
 at an early day by the Dutch. Its foundations were admirably laid, being com- 
 posed of long blocks of stone, imported from Europe, hewed square. They were 
 placed lengthwise to the sea, and then bound together by heavy bands of iron. A 
 wall of the same nature extends from the base of the fortification to the body of the 
 reef. This wall appears to have become perfectly solidified, and, in fact, aug- 
 mented by a slight crust of accumulating petrifaction. This circumstance corrobo- 
 rates the idea that the rock, on the whole, may be increasing, like the coral reefs 
 of the South Sea Islands. 
 
 "The district of S. Pedro — frequently called that of the Recife — is not large. 
 Its buildings are most of them ancient in their appearance : they exhibit the old 
 Dutch style of architecture, and many of them retain their latticed balconies or 
 gelovzias. These gelouzias were common at Rio de Janeiro at the period of Dom 
 John's arrival. But that monarch, dreading the use that might be made of them 
 as places of concealment for assassins, ordered them to be pulled down; and they 
 are now rarely seen in the metropolis. 
 
 "The principal street of the Recife is Rua da Cruz. At its northern extremity, 
 toward the Arsenal da ^larinha, it is wide and imposing in its aspect. Towai'd the 
 other end, although flanked by high houses, it becomes very narrow, like most of 
 the other streets b}' which it is intersected. A single bridge connects this portion 
 of the city with S. Antonio, the middle district. 
 
 " S. Antonio is the finest part of Periiambuco when considered as a city. It con- 
 tains the palace and military arsenal, in front of which a wall has recently been 
 extended along the river's bank. Just above the water's edge has been placed a row 
 of green-painted seats for the accommodation of the public. These are inviting, 
 mornings and evenings, although, in the absence of shade-trees, the rays of the sun, 
 pouring upon the turfiess sand, render the heat intolerable throughout the day. 
 
 "The principal streets of this section of the city, together with an open square 
 used as a market-place, are spacious and elegant. The bridge crossing the other 
 river is longer and more expensive than the one just described, although the depth 
 of the stream beneath is not so great. Oa the southern or southwestern bank 
 of this river stands the British Chapel, in a very suitable and convenient location. 
 That edifice is built in modern style, and generally well attended by the English 
 residents, on Sabbath-days, both morning and evening. Boa Vista is very exten- 
 sive, and is chiefly occupied by residences and counti-y-seats. A few large build- 
 ings stand near the river, and, like most of those in the other sections of the town, 
 are devoted in part to commercial purposes. Beyond these, the houses are gene- 
 rally low, but large upon the ground, and surrounded by gardens, here denomi- 
 nated sitios. The streets here were formerly unpaved, and unhappily suffered to 
 remain in a most wretched condition. Sand, dry and wonderfully comminuted, 
 abounds on all sides, unless variegated by filthy pools of standing- water. 
 
518 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 "The hedges in the environs of Pernambuco are similar to those of Rio, although 
 generally more rank in growth. Many of the houses exhibit an expensive and at 
 the same time tasteful style of consti-uction. I was pointed to one in the veranda 
 of which was arranged a collection of statues. The owner being a wealthy and 
 notorious slave-deiilur, some wag, a few years since, thinking either to oblige or to 
 vex him, crept in by night and supplied him with a cargo of new negroes, by paint- 
 ing all the marble faces black." 
 
 Pernambuco has ever manifested more activity than any other 
 of the Northern provinces. It was the first to decLarc against the 
 Portuguese Government, and several times there have been com- 
 motions that threatened for a time the dismemberment of the State; 
 but at the present time there is no province more faithfuL An 
 outbreak occurred in 1848, in consequence of a band of miscreants 
 from the interior joining witli a few disaffected in the city; but 
 their leaders were summarily dealt with, and since that time the 
 province has remained perfectly tranquil. 
 
 The state of religion at Pernambuco is not obviously different 
 from that in other pai'ts of the Empire. The monasteries are in 
 low repute, having at present but few inmates. The hospicio of 
 the Barbadinhos, or Italian Capuchins, has been converted into a 
 foundling-hospital. None of the churches are remarkable for their 
 beauty, or splendor of construction. That of Nossa Senhora da 
 ConceigiJo dos Militares is distinguished for a singular painting upon 
 its walls, designed to represent the battle of the Gararapes, and to 
 commemorate the victory which was then obtained over the 
 heretical Hollanders. 
 
 I followed up the Bible-labors of my predecessor, and found some 
 unexpected openings for sowing the good seed. There never was 
 a more favorable opportunity than the present for the introduction 
 of truth and of a pure worship into this portion of Brazil. What 
 is most needed in view of this object is a number of fearless and 
 faithful Brazilian preachers. 
 
 Through the English chaplain, Dr. Kidder was made acquainted 
 
 with a priest who had alread}'' become convinced of the necessity 
 
 of some new measures for enlightening the people, and who had 
 
 recently taken an active part in circulating Bibles and tracts. 
 
 He thus records his interview with this Bible-Christian: — 
 
 " I met with this padre a few days after my arrival in the city. He came into 
 the house of a friend with whom I was dining, and, happening to lay his hand upor 
 some of the new tracts which I brought along, he broke forth in expressions of 
 
A Bible-Christian. 519 
 
 delight, saying that he had use for a quantity of these publications. In addition 
 to their subject-matter, he was particularly pleased with their severally bearing the 
 imprint of Rio de Janeiro, a circumstance that indicated the radiation of light from 
 that important point This individual was a man fifty years old, as much like the 
 ex-Regent Feijo in his appearance as any other Brazilian I ever saw. Part of his 
 education he had received in Portugal, part in Brazil. He had once been chaplain 
 to the prison-island of Fernando de Noronha. Owing to his recent change of views 
 on several important topics, he had suffered considerable persecution from his 
 bisbDp and some others of the clergy, but he seemed in no way disheartened by this. 
 
 " His opinion was, that the silent distribution of tracts and Scriptures among 
 those persons and families disposed to read and prize them was the best method 
 of doing good in the country at present. And most faithfully did he pursue that 
 method, calling on me every few days for a fresh supply of evangelical publications. 
 
 "I one day returned his visit, and found him surrounded with- quite a library, 
 among which his Bible attracted my attention, as having been for a year or two past 
 his one book. Almost every page in it was marked as containing something of very 
 especial interest. I could but wish that all with whom the Bible is not a rare 
 book prized it as highly as did this padre, who, after having spent the greater 
 portion of his life as a minister of religion according to the best of his previous 
 knowledge, now in his declining years had found the word of God to be 'a light to 
 his feet and a lamp to his path.' " 
 
 In 1838, there occurred in this province one of the most extra- 
 ordinary scenes of fanaticism which is a melancholy pi'oof that the 
 boast of the Eomish Church is in vai.i that such extravagances are 
 confined to Protestant countries. The following narrative, con- 
 densed from the official documents before me, may challenge a 
 parallel in either history or mythology. In order that the reader 
 may fully understand it, I will remind him that there prevails 
 in Portugal, and to some extent in- Brazil, a sect called Sebas- 
 tianists. The distino-uishino; tenet of this sect is the belief that 
 Dom Sebastian, the King of Portugal who, in 1577, undertook 
 an expedition against the Moors in Africa, and who, having been 
 defeated, never returned, is still alive, and is destined yet to make 
 his reappearance on earth, when all that the most enthusiastic 
 Millerarian ever anticipated will be realized. JSTumberless dreams and 
 prophecies, together with the interpretation of marvellous portents 
 confirming this idea, have been circulated with so much of clerical 
 sanction, that many have believed the senseless whim. Nor have 
 there been lacking persons, at various periods, who have under- 
 taken to fulfil the prophecies, and to prove themselves the veritable 
 Dom Sebastian. 
 
 The prime point of faith is, that he will yet come, and that too, 
 as each believer has it, in his own lifetime. The Portuo;uese look 
 
520 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 for his appearance at Lisbon, but the Brazilians generally think it 
 most likely that he will first revisit his own city, St. Sebastian. 
 
 It appears that a reckless villain, named Joao Antonio, fixed 
 upon a remote part of the province of Pernambuco, near Pianco, 
 in the Comarca de Flores, for the appearance of the said Dom Se- 
 bastian. The place designated was a dense forest, near wdiich 
 were known to be two acroceraunian caverns. This spot the im- 
 postor said was an enchanted kingdom, which was about to be 
 disenchanted, whereupon Dom Sebastian would immediately appear 
 at the head of a great army, with glory, and with power to confer 
 wealth and happiness upon all who should anticipate his coming by 
 associating themselves with said Joao Antonio. 
 
 As might be expected, he found followers, who, after a while, 
 learned that the imaginary kingdom was to be disenchanted by 
 having its soil sprinkled with the blood of one hundred innocent 
 children! In default of a sufficient number of children, men and 
 women were to be immolated, but in a few days they would all rise 
 again and become possessed of the riches of the world. The pro- 
 phet appears to have lacked the courage necessary to carry out his 
 bloody scheme; but he delegated power to an accomplice, named 
 Joao Ferreira, who assumed the title of "His Holiness," put a 
 wreath of rushes upon his head, and required the pi'oselytes to kiss 
 his toe, on pain of instant death. The official letter to Sr. Fran- 
 cisco Eego Barras, at that time President of Pernambuco, states 
 that "he also married every man to two or three women with 
 superstitious rites in accordance with his otherwise immoral con- 
 duct." After other deeds, too horrible to describe, he commenced 
 the slaughter of human beings. Each parent was required to 
 bring forward one or two of his children to be offered. In vain 
 did the prattling babes shriek and beg that they might not bo 
 murdered. The unnatural parent would reply, "Ko, my child; 
 there is no remedy," and forcibly ofPer them. In the course of two 
 days he had thus, in cold blood, slain twenty-one adults and twenty 
 children, when a brother of the prophet, becomiUj^ ealous of "His 
 Holiness," thrust him through and assumed his power. At this 
 juncture some one ran away, and apprized the civil authorities of 
 the dreadful tragedy. 
 
 Troops were called out, who hastened to the spot; but the infatu- 
 
Extraordinary Fanaticism. 521 
 
 ated Sebastianists had been taught not to fear any thing, but that 
 should an attack be made upon them it would be the signal for the 
 restoration of the kingdom, the resurrection of their dead, and the 
 destruction of their enemies. Wherefore, on seeing the troops ap- 
 proach they rushed upon them, uttering cries of defiance, attacking 
 those who had come to their rescue, and actually killing five, and 
 wounding others, before they could be restrained. Nor did they 
 submit until twenty -nine of their number, including three women, 
 had actually been killed. Women, seeing their husbands dying at 
 their feet, would not attempt to escape, but shouted, "The time is 
 come ! Viva ! viva ! the time is come !" Of those that survived a 
 few escaped into the woods, the rest were taken prisoners. It was 
 found that the victims of this horrid delusion had not even buried 
 the bodies of their murdex'ed offspring and kinsmen, so confident 
 were they of their immediate restoration. 
 
 Pernambuco lies on the great eastern shoulder of the South 
 American continent, where it pushes farthest into the ocean. Its 
 present great commercial importance is largely owing to this for- 
 tuitous position. The city does not depend for its large exports 
 on the fruitfulness or plenty of the region immediately sur- 
 rounding it. 
 
 This region is the sertao, {" the wilderness, or desert,") — a term 
 applied to much of the great promontorj^ on which the province lies. 
 It is a continued plain, of but little elevation above the sea, of a 
 surface undulating to a small degree, occupied by a crisp, thin herbage 
 on a baked ferrugineous clay, or patched over Avith dwarfed forests, 
 is irregularly supplied with rain, and is very sparsely populated. 
 
 Pernambuco sends out annually four millions of dollars of exports 
 past the angry little fort at the end of the Recife. A half-million 
 reaches the United States. But its abundant beef and hides are 
 gathered from the fat but untamed herds. that riot among the sedgy 
 meadows of the far-off San Francisco ; while a portion of the cotton 
 and sugar are harvested three hundred miles away, around the 
 Villa das Flores and among the foot-hills of Santa Barbaretta, — the 
 first mountain-chain that arrests the trade-wind as it sweeps west- 
 ward, laden with rain, which pours down the little valleys that 
 furrow the serra and fill the region below with plenty. 
 
 There are also an immense number of sugar-plantations on the 
 
522 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 proposed railway from Pernanibuco to Joazeiro. From the Recife 
 to the river Una; — a distance of. seventy-five miles — there are no 
 less than three hundred sugar-estates on the sections of the railway 
 already under contract. 
 
 The distant population of this province is as untamed as the 
 wilderness in which it exists. Law is worn very loosely. Society 
 is patriarchal rather than civil. The proprietor of a sugar or cattle 
 estate is, practically, an absolute lord. The community that lives 
 in the shadow of so great a man is his feudal retinue; and, by the 
 conspiracy of a few such men, who are thus able to bring scores of 
 lieges and partisans into the field, the quiet of the province was 
 formerly more than once disturbed b}^ revolts, which gave the 
 Government much trouble. 
 
 Revenue, accordingly, can only be collected by import and ex- 
 port duties. Taxation is impossible, because there is no sj'stem 
 of tax-gathering vigorous enough to collect it. A few years ago 
 an excise Avas put on the herds of cattle, and the exciseman went 
 into the sertiio for the Emperor's money. He was caught, strij^ped, 
 and imprisoned in the ti'unk of a dead bullock, with his head stick- 
 ing out. "If the Empei'or wants beef," the sertanejos said, "let 
 his exciseman take it along." 
 
 The provincial of Pernambuco, as he enters the city from the 
 sertao to do his semi-annual marketing, is worthy of such an ex- 
 ploit, and is a notable. The highway to the city lies through 
 Cachinga, — a neat little hamlet two or three leagues from the 
 Recife. The village is hidden from the observer as he approaches 
 by a long valley of orange and banana trees. This is the sertanejo's 
 last night's halt before getting to market. He has already ridden 
 for twelve days, perched upon a couple of oblong cotton-bags 
 strapped parallel to his horse's sides, followed by his train of a 
 dozen horses or mules, loaded, in the same way, with cotton or 
 sugar. A monkey, with a clog tied to his waist, surmounts one in 
 place of tiie driver; pai'rot and his wife another; and a large brass- 
 throated macaw with a stiff blue coat of feathers another. A raw 
 hide protects his wares from the rain. Night after night he has 
 slept on the earth, or has been suspended in his inseparable ham- 
 mock, slung between two trees, with only the generous, starry sky 
 for a coverino;. 
 
The Sertanejos' Cavalcade. 
 
 523 
 
 Cachingii, quiet and silent by day, is boisterous by night ; for, 
 (iiiring its watches, the sertanejos accumulate about the vendas by 
 liundrcds. The first streaking of the morning witnesses a miscel- 
 laneous distribution, over the earth, of men, jaded horses, mules, 
 monkej^s, parroquetas, and sugar and cotton bags. The caravan 
 is at once put in motion. Each individual sertancjo stirs his 
 beasts, packs their loads, goes behind the riding-horse, seizes hold 
 of the tail, puts a foot on the hock-joint, and leaps up on the back 
 
 SERTANEJOS. 
 
 aa if ascending a flight of stairs. This is a summons to every horse 
 of his troop — already educated to it — to take his place in the train. 
 In an instant the motley cavalcade is rolling down the valley of 
 the Capibaribe before the sun 'has absorbed the dew-drops, which 
 are like pendent jewelry on the rank leaves of the thick orchards 
 that overhang the road. The sertanejo passes on, only pausing to 
 uncover before the patron saint of all cavaliers, (who is shut up in 
 a wooden case at the gateway of the bridge of San Antonio,) and 
 he finally halts with his various merchandise, living and dead, in 
 the street Trapixe. 
 
 The individuality of the sertanejo is now manifest. On his head 
 he w^ars a pindova hat, after the pattern of a sugar-loaf, attem- 
 
524 Brazil and the Braziliaxs. 
 
 pered by expevience to every condition of weather. Under it is an 
 affluent "shock" of hair, in the midst of which, in a doubtful state 
 of Hght and eclipse, is a thin, bronze face, of Portuguese configura- 
 tion, with eyes significant of divided curiosity and suspicion. He 
 is attired in a cotton shirt and unmentionables, the one scant to the 
 elbows and unbuttoned at the throat, leaving his tanned bosom 
 bare, and the other rolled up to the knees. His feet are all un- 
 learned in such commercial literature as the statistics of boots 
 and shoes. 
 
 Early morning is the busy hour of Pernambuco. The sugar- 
 streets ar^ thronged with a wonderful miscellan}^ of horses, mules, 
 asses, and sugar-bags; sugai'-merchants delicatelj- holding samples- 
 cotton-bales, goats with their flxmilies on a morning j^romenade; 
 and qnitandeiras eloquently passing panegyrics on cakes, comfits, 
 and oi'anges. And still the tide of loaded horses and asses pours 
 into the Trapixe. The horses lie down to rest, and the sertanejo, 
 fatigued with the riot of the night, and anticipating the noontide 
 siesta, pillows- himself to slumber on the neck of his steed. A 
 wood-dealer, with twin-bundles of fagots strapped on the side 
 of his donkey, attempts to force a way. He is followed by a 
 poultry-dealer mounted on an ass, with an immense hamper of 
 fowls, advertised by a dozen chicken-necks thrust at full length 
 through the lattices. Macaws and pai'rots make the tenor of the 
 busy occasion; while the ambitious trumpets of a half-dozen 
 donkeys lend their bass semitones. In the midst of this Babel of 
 sounds, the sabia — sweetest of the Southern feathered tribes of 
 song and peer of the Northern thrush and the mocking-bird — 
 pours out his heart}^ mellow praises from a lady's window by the 
 bide of a whitewashed church. 
 
 No market-scene can anj'where be more various, checkered, and 
 interesting than at Pernambuco, in the busy sugar-season. Before 
 meridian, the actors have changed, and others have taken their 
 places. The black ganhadores, naked to the waist, with sugar-bags 
 on their heads, hurry from the sugar-warehouses to the lighters, 
 at full trot, in exact pace to their own boisterous music. 
 
 Nearly the whole of Brazil is adapted to the cultivation of sugar; 
 but it is on the sea-coast from Campos to the sixth degi'ce of south 
 latitude that it is produced in the greatest abundance. The export 
 
The Jangal>a or Catamaran. 525 
 
 of sugar from Pernambuco is annually increasing, and its produc- 
 tion is flourishing under the improved machinery introduced by 
 the brothers De Mornay. In 1821 this province produced 20,000,000 
 pounds; in 1853 the total was 140,000,000 pounds. The whole 
 number of pounds exported from Brazil in 1855 was 254,765,504, 
 of which we purchased to the amount of more than a million 
 of dollars. 
 
 The ordinary price at Pernambuco is about three cents per pound 
 for brown and five cents for pure white sugar. The clayed or white 
 sugars are exported to Sweden and the United States: much of the 
 brown is sent to the Mediterranean : the consignments to England 
 are generally put up for "Covves and a market." 
 
 Pernambuco also exported, in 1866, 32,159,040 pounds of cotton 
 to Liverpool. This cotton is of a good quality, and brings a higher 
 price than the generality of that expoi'ted from the United States. 
 To the Quakers of England this Brazilian article has the preference, 
 because it is mostly, according to Friends Candler and Burgess, 
 raised by the free half-breeds of the interior; and I believe that 
 there is very little of it which has to do with slave-labor. Great 
 Britain imported from Brazil, in 1856, 21,830,000 pounds of cotton; 
 but, as we have seen, Pernambuco alone in 1866 exported near- 
 ly fifty per cent more. In 1854 the export of cotton from 
 Pernambuco was not quite three million pounds. The fibre is 
 infeiMor only to that of sea island. 
 
 But the Brazilian Mail-steamer awaits us. We bid farewell to 
 our friends, and soon pass on one side the little fort at the end 
 of the reef, and on the other the rusty cannons of old Fort do Brum, 
 and are at once on the ocean. At the same time a hundred jangadas, 
 or catamarans, sail}' out for the fishing-grounds at some indefinite 
 distance from land, — ten, fifteen, twenty, or forty miles. These 
 curious crafts are each composed of four logs of cork-palm, eight 
 inches in diameter, pinned together, with a plank thrust down 
 between them for keel and rudder, and a broad, brown lateen 
 Bail, made from fibrils, affixed to a rude mast. The catamaran 
 flies like the wind, and the clipper — swift courser of the sea — 
 cannot outstrip it. The fisherman, with breeches rolled up to his 
 thigh, (for every wave submerges his palm-logs,) sits securely 
 on a pegged stool : occasionally he dips up the brine with a 
 
526 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 calabash and dashes it over his sail. Have no fear for this frail 
 ship-carpentry. The catamaran will re-enter the harbor to-mor- 
 row morning, or, at furthest, the next day after, laden with a 
 cargo of most extraordinary fish, — pink-eyed, ox-eyed, and four- 
 eyed, round-shouldered, Eoman-nosed, scaly and unsealed; and 
 among them are some wearing a quantity of tails, hairy and 
 tufted, like a buffalo-bull's. Only once, the story goes, a cata- 
 maran was run down at night: the pickcd-up owner was carried 
 to Baltimore, to return at length and find his inconsolable widow 
 solaced by a new marriage, and some young birds in the family 
 nest not yet old enough to fly. 
 
 Dr. Kidder once performed a voyage in a jangada to the beautiful 
 island of Itamaraca, and his experience shows that they are breezy, 
 watery, and safe. 
 
 A minute after passing Fortaleza de Brum, a last sight is taken 
 of a couple of Hollandish-looking windmills; and, as we glide 
 away we have a glimpse of Cocoanut Island, lifting up its forest 
 of green feathers against the clear sunset-sky, and finally nothing 
 remains but the rocky pyramid of Olinda, crowned with a cross- 
 bearing church, and, bej'ond, the low shores that stretch away 
 toward Parahiba do Noi'te. 
 
 There is an utter dissimilarity in the geological position of the 
 provincial capitals of Northern Brazil. But there is a striking 
 resemblance in the heavy stone-masonry of the houses, in the tones 
 of the families of bells that inhabit ever}'- church-turret, in the 
 profound sand that fills the streets, and in the twinkle of the 
 eyes and the thin sallow faces of the male inhabitants. 
 
 The little island of Itamaraca, which, under the old Dutch Go- 
 vernment, was the most spirited and afiluent along the Avhole coast, 
 has now been almost lost sight of in geography, and has been de- 
 graded from a first commercial consequence into a lean and beg- 
 gared colony of fishermen and fruit-raisers. Parahiba, the capital 
 of Parahiba do Norte, with a population of ten thousand, is situated 
 upon the Parahiba Piver, some ten miles from the sea. The greenery 
 of both shores overhangs the narrow river so closely that it seems 
 to be ajiproached through a cavern of verdure. Eed crabs doze 
 on the muddy beaches, and countless tribes of waders industriously 
 pick uf> a living at ever}' retreat of the tide. At the end of this 
 
Rio Grande do Norte and Ceara. 
 
 527 
 
 arched a^venue of trees, and on the hill-side of a narrow valle}', 
 whitewashed Parahiba appears, and, as our steamer draws neai', 
 the bells of a cathedral that rises above it summon the priests to 
 perform the solemn offices for the dead. 
 
 Natal, or Eio Grande do Norte, is, on the other hand, built on low 
 lands near the sea. The steamer does not enter it, but lies off at 
 an anchorage two or three miles from the shore. Passengers, with 
 their luggage, are delivered, for want of boats, on board of a 
 vivacious raft of palm-logs that goes hobbling round at the mercy 
 of the sea. Each wave sweeps its whole length and breadth. JJn 
 route to his post is a military commandant, just assorted and dis- 
 
 charged from the ruder human clay of the steamer, and he stands 
 erect on the float, brilliant in attire and trappings, and made more 
 magnificent by his top-boots, which, at every plunge, fill up with 
 water from the briny deep. 
 
 Ceani can hai'dly be said to have a harbor: it is only a road- 
 stead. This city is on ground comparatively level, and but few 
 feet higher than the ocean. The bluff, tall mountains of Ibiapaba, 
 four or five leagues distant, picturesque as the shores of the Hudson, 
 and visible froJi the sea for a hundred miles, (though not marked 
 
528 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 on the maps,) form a beautiful background. Their sides are fretted 
 with coffee-plantations, and, under the glass, their profile is ser- 
 rated with feathery palm-woods. Here the style of landing is 
 very different from that at Natal. A boat transports the pas- 
 sengers to the verge of the surf that always breaks on the shore. 
 A municipal chair, (padiola,') large enough for the accommodation 
 of a couple of beef-fed aldermen, is borne on the backs of four 
 stout slaves, until the water reaches their chins, and the surf, as 
 they advance, passes over and around them. In the swift drift of 
 water that precedes the breakers, the chair receives the precious 
 freight of human life and treasure, and is carried at once, through 
 the surf, to the shore. 
 
 Aracati, in the province of Ceara, and Parnahiba, in that of 
 Piauhy, are principally cattle-marts. There is an equally striking 
 difference in the productions of the different provinces. Pernam- 
 buco and Aracati are sugar-dealers; Parahiba exports cotton princi- 
 pally. Ceara mingles sugar and coffee, and is eminently rejmt- 
 able for its beef Parahiba and Piauh}^ have a ruder civilization, 
 and accumuhite hides, tallow, and beef, and gather rice on the low 
 plains along the rivers. ^Maranham, in addition to its large 
 exports of cotton, rice, and salt, is a druggist, collecting many 
 species of invigorating roots, barks, and balsams in its woods. 
 Para is gratefully known to the world for its cacao and caoutchouc. 
 
 There is a difference, too, in the appearance of the coasts. After 
 leaving Olinda, no highlands are seen, except the mountains behind 
 Ceara, until the bluff sand-hill of San Marcos is turned on entering 
 Maranham. After leaving Pai-ahiba do Norte, the eye tires of the 
 dreary shores and hillocks of white sand, herbless and treeless, 
 save here and there a riband of green cocoanuts in the little 
 valleys, or columnar cacti that from time to time shoot up out 
 of the unrelieved desert as if to keep note of its utter desola- 
 tion. Though, as has been observed, there is no Sahara in 
 Brazil, there has often been much suffering from drought in 
 this portion of the Empire, As seen from the deck, glistening 
 sand frequently stretches away beyond the reach of sight. Such 
 is the character of the country for hundreds of miles. This 
 is slowly modified as the voyage extends farther north. The white 
 sand-drifts are, at long intervals, striped with vegetation ; then it 
 
Coast-Scenes. 
 
 529 
 
 becomes more interspersed, until at Maranliam the wliole shore is 
 clothed with the beautj^, brilliancy, and luxuriance of tropical 
 growth. 
 
 The sea-built masonry of the reef of Pernambuco appears at 
 frequent intervals along the coast, at distances varying from one 
 
 THE CAC/CO. 
 
 hundred to one thousand yards from shore. At Cearji alono it 
 seems to pass under the land, through the sandy point of Mucoripe. 
 The ocean, with its low, hoarse voice of habitual sorrow, often 
 breaks over it. 
 
 Petitinga — a triangle of green in the midst of a wide desolation 
 of sand-hillocks — is famous for the tortoise-shell (second only to 
 that of the South Sea) gathered among these disrupted rocks. 
 
 U 
 
530 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 But the morality of the hamlet is like that of the Bedouins. Legiti- 
 mate trade is sometimes suspended to plunder a flour-vessel which 
 has been driven ashore by a storm and the currents. Then the 
 whole population turn salvors, and salvage covers the cargo. 
 
 The point of the coast about Cape S. Eoque is dangerous to 
 vessels making their way close to the shore, in consequence of 
 sunken reefs and the strong current, at the rate of three or four 
 miles an hour, that, having ah-eady swept across the ocean from 
 the African coast, impinges on Brazil not far from Bahia, and is then 
 deflected northwardly till it passes the mouth of the Amazon, after 
 "which it continues until it becomes known to us as the Gulf Stream. 
 This is a serious obstacle to attempting a landing north of Cape 
 S. Eoque, because then, with an adversity both of wind and cur- 
 rent, it is difiicult to turn the cape without standing far out to sea. 
 Before the introduction of steamers, news from Northern Brazil was 
 sometimes received at Eio de Janeiro via Europe. Mr. Southey 
 mentions the case of a vessel sent eastward from Maranham in 
 1656, having troops on board for some special emergency, which, 
 after having been out fifty days, — a time long enough to exhaust her 
 provisions, — found it necessary to put back, and in twelve hours 
 reached the port she had left. 
 
 Eiofht desrrees of latitude and more than fifteen hundred miles of 
 coast are comprehended between Pernambuco and Para on the 
 Amazon. The climate of all is much alike, and without any 
 appreciable differences on account of seasons. The range of the 
 thermometer in the shade is from 82° to 90°, scarcely ever indi- 
 cating a change of more than five degrees. So equable, indeed, is 
 the temperature of the northern coast, that one cannot but be 
 astonished at Avitnessing it advance slowly, during six months of 
 the year, from 82° to the maximum, then, turning and tracing its 
 way back, to the minimum with equal decorum. But the quan- 
 tity and distribution of rain are very unequal, and its seasons 
 vary at diff'erent points along the coast. At Pernambuco the rain 
 continues about three months only, and falls in inconsiderable 
 quantities, while at Para, by exact observation, less than sixty 
 days of the year are without rain. But the reader must not ima- 
 gine a continuous state of overhanging clouds: the sun is seen as 
 often as at New York. The rainy season at Pernambuco is nearly 
 
The Eainy Season, 
 
 531 
 
 ended when that at Maranham begins. At this latter point the 
 tropical rain, though less continuous than at Para, is established 
 in full vigor. Light occasional showers inaugurate its approach. 
 Every day invigorates it, till, at the height of the season, in a 
 bright sky, black clouds rush up suddenly from every point of 
 the horizon to the zenith, bring their stores together in an angry 
 shock, accompanied by violent lightning and thunder, and pour 
 them down in a deluge on the earth. At this time, although 
 the rain sometimes con- 
 tinues incessantly dur- 
 ing the day, there is a 
 usual periodicity of the 
 showorS; at ten o'clock 
 in the morning and 
 three in the afternoon, 
 — lasting a couple of 
 hours, and with bright 
 skies between. So great 
 is their precision that 
 all the appointments 
 of the day are made 
 with reference to these 
 short times of tenij)est. 
 The rainy season of 
 Maranham continues 
 about six months, and 
 during this time no less 
 than two hundred and 
 thirt}' inches of rain 
 falls! So says a British 
 resident. Whatauthor- 
 it}' he has for his data 
 1 know not. The re- 
 mainder of the year is rainless. Still, vegetation does not droop. 
 Plants have in themselves the power of adaptation to great dif- 
 ferences of seasons, and borrow and absorb the transparent moisture 
 which the trade-wind brings from the sea, thus maintaining their 
 usual rankness of growth. 
 
 THE SAPUCAYA NUT. 
 
532 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 And now, turning from the weather to something more stable, 
 we observe that the city of San Luiz de Maranham ranks as the 
 fourth in the Empire, and is the capital of the rich and important 
 province of the same name. The estuary upon which it stands 
 was discovex'ed by Pinzon in 1500. Though Maranham was made a 
 captaincy as early as 1530, the French, in 1612, were the first to 
 form a permanent settlement, and, in compliment to the patron 
 saint and the royal family of France, named the town St. Louis and 
 the bay St. Mary. 
 
 The territory of the province is rather uneven in its surface, 
 although it has not a single range of mountains. It is watered by 
 a large number of rivers, both great and small. It remains to a 
 great extent covered with forests, in which valuable woods and 
 precious drugs are abundant. The soil is peculiarly adapted to the 
 cultivation of rice, which it produces in vast quantities. Cotton 
 thrives much more than the sugarcane. The indigenous fruits are 
 numerous and rich, and in the distant interior are many edible 
 nuts, amono; which none is more curious than the three-cornered 
 Brazil-nut {Bertholetia excclsa) and the sapucaj^a, {Lecythis oJlaria.) 
 The latter is a capsule or nut as large as an infant's bead, filled Avith 
 small, oil}", eatable grains. With this capsule pretty vases and 
 sugar-bowls are often made. The pineapples and bananas, of 
 several species, deserve mention for especial excellence. Mineral 
 riches have not been withheld from this portion of the globe. Fine 
 strata of old red sandstone furnish an excellent and common 
 material for building; while iron and lead ores and antimony have 
 been discovered, although they have not j'Ct been turned to public 
 advantage. Fish abound in the waters of the province; and herds 
 of sheep, cattle, and horses multiply rapidly on the plantations of 
 the interior. 
 
 San Luiz de Maranham is believed to be better built, as a Avhole, 
 than any other city of Brazil. It exhibits a general neatness and 
 an air of enterprise which rarely appears in the other towns of the 
 Empire. There are, moreover, within its bounds but few huts 
 and indifferent houses. None of the churches appear unusually 
 large or sumptuous, but many of the private dwellings are of a 
 superior order. The style of construction is at once elegant and 
 durable. The walls are massive, being composed of stone broken 
 
The City of San Luiz de Maranham. 
 
 533 
 
 fine and laid in cement. Although the town does not occupy a 
 large extent of ground, the surface it covers is very unequal. 
 Its site extends over two hills, and, consequently, a valley. The 
 rise and descent in the streets are 
 in many places very abrupt. Few 
 carriages are in use, and, in accord- 
 ance with this circumstance, there is 
 only one good carriage-road in the 
 entire vicinity. That road leads a 
 short distance out of town. The 
 cadeira is but little known here as a 
 means of conveyance. The rede, or 
 hammock, is generall}" used as a means 
 of easy locomotion. It is very com- 
 mon, both in Maranham and Para, 
 to see ladies in this manner taking 
 their passeio, or promenade. Gentle- 
 men do not often make their ap- 
 pearance in public in this stjde, 
 
 although it is generally conceded that they are quite fond of 
 swinging in their hammocks at home. 
 
 Hon. John U. Petit, who resided for a number of 3'ears at Ma- 
 ranham, has kindly furnished me a few of his full notes; and his 
 descriptions of Maranham are so fresh, graphic, and full of life that 
 I give them entire: — 
 
 " The lateral streets, crossing the two principal thoroughfares, descend rapidly 
 to the estuaries on each side. The heavy rains dash their torrents along down their 
 pavements and cleanse the whole city. Filth is thus made impossible. Qiiebra- 
 cosla or Breakback Street deserves its name, for it drops down abruptly like a 
 declivity. 
 
 " My first landing was made at evening, and at the end of the outpouring of the 
 diurnal rains. Already the sun was out, and the clouds were half dispersed from 
 the sky, except here and there a few remaining fugitives, fantastically arranged, 
 now in crags and mountain-steeps, now in distant harvest-landscapes, now in long, 
 blue lakes, with sloping shores of green and orange. 
 
 " But the prevailing and superabundant humidity at this season, though unfelt 
 and obviously unseen, is yet seen in its effects. Every thing that is touched is 
 clammy. The wet season is the green age of mould. And yet it is not so much wet 
 as musty. Mould grows on every thing that gives it a place for rest. A grease- 
 spot on a coat, or a soiled coat-collar, becomes verdant after a night's exposure. 
 Albino wakes you to take a cup of coiFee, and you sip the liquid swinging in your 
 hammock, just as the morning is peeping, and the velvet-breasted wren is singing 
 
534 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 from the tall crown of a bread -fi-uit-tree or early humming-birds are sucking nectar 
 from the very throats of the red pomegranate-flower. Albino then improvises a 
 lustre on your boots. But you have hardly sunk down in your hammock and 
 waked up again, when — presto — your boots are grown over with a green vegetable 
 nap, an antiquity-looking mildew. The old black, revered, neat's-leather trunk, 
 fellow-visitor of many States, and the acquaintance of many custom-house ex- 
 plorers, — now standing modestly back by the wall with its lid uplifted, as though 
 it wished everybody to look in and see its very heart, — under the novel influence, is 
 first white, then brown, then yellowish, and, at last, green in an apparent old age. 
 But, if this attract remark, it is only for a moment; for the mould perishes at the 
 first hot breath of old Sol, — suddenly as the ephemera that lives a whole life and 
 dies in crossing a sunbeam. 
 
 "Maranham, in its principal streets, is built of compacted stone-masonry. 
 Houses are usually of two, three, or four stories, with walls of two and a half 
 or three feet in thickness, the better to resist attacks of external heat. Maran- 
 ham is nearly a finished city ; but a house was erected, not long since, in the 
 Street St. John. A train of asses and mules brought the red, ferrugineous sand- 
 stone — just landed from Bom-Fim — up the Palace Square in panniers, — a reluctant 
 slave compelling them from behind. The lime was carried in baskets, on the heads 
 of slaves, from the opposite sea-shore ; while, in order to mix the mortiir, women 
 marched up, loaded with water-jars, from the abundant fountain behind Prai.'^ 
 Cuju. 
 
 "The population is affluent. The residents of the city are the proprietors of the 
 plantations and of the numerous slaves dwelling on the fazendas of the mainland. 
 Factors supervise them there, and the annual rents are paid without giving the 
 masters any trouble in going after them, and the money is soon wasted in the 
 abundance — and, sometimes, the dissipation — of the city. 
 
 "With such ample means, the children of its burghers are very well educated in 
 the more brilliant and showy and less practical attainments of knowledge, — some- 
 times at home, less often abi'oad. Ladies mcire frequently than gentlemen are met 
 with who have learned the arts of pleasing and conquest at Lisbon, Madrid, and 
 Paris. This superior class constitutes a social realm where Roger de Coverley 
 
 might live happy. 
 
 * ********* 
 
 "Before midnight, the streets are quiet as churchyards, and it is only the late 
 walker who is met by the patrol with a musket on his shoulder and a bayonet at the 
 end of it, and required to give the countersign ; and, answering, it is likely, with a 
 very difficult utterance, Amigo, which means that he is a particular friend of the 
 Emperor's, is then directed to move on. 
 
 "Below the class of opulent citizens, who dwell in large stone houses having 
 balconies at all their windows and verandas above, that shut out the invasion of 
 the sun, first in rank is the large class of shopkeepers and artisans. For these, 
 several schools exist. The city, too, abounds in charities. It has its home of 
 orphans, its house of foundlings, a house of lepers, hospitals for the sick, and 
 misericordias, with open doors, embracing all the children of distress. 
 
 " The Portuguese make an important element of the population in all the cities. 
 They are spirited, ambitious, self-reliant, and money-making. They do not create 
 wealth, but acquire it. The Brazileiro looks on them with habitual aversion. This 
 had its origin in the time of the colonial dependence on Portugal, when home- 
 bred courtiers of the monarch crowded all the walks of ambition in Church and 
 
"Old Uncle Ned" in Maranham. 535 
 
 Stato, to the exclusion of the natives of the colony. The Government then was 
 terribly unjust and oppressive. The Portuguese appointees were generally in 
 circumstances of decayed fortune, which they went abroad to repair ; aud the his- 
 tory of the capilanias is only a repetition of the old story of the outrages and rapa- 
 city of the Roman proconsuls. To this deep cause of hatred another is added, in 
 the steady iiow of Portuguese colonization into the Empire, monopolizing, by vigor 
 and ingenuity, the shopkeeping and the more skilful mechanical employments, in 
 which a Brazilian rarely appears. Most of them come as adventurers and obtain 
 competence, many of them affluence. 
 
 "A vessel touches in Brazil, loaded with Portuguese lads bent on making for- 
 tunes. Each has a large chest, capable of holding a whole family, At a custom- 
 house inspection, two of the boys lift up the huge lid. In the immense cavei'n to 
 which it opens are seen dispersed a shirt, 'a pair of socks,' needles and thread, 
 and, in addition, the adventurer's stock in trade, — two or three strings of Spanish 
 onions. In ten or twelve years the boy has become a man, and embarks his chest 
 again to return to Portugal. But now he has it strapped with ropes to keep down 
 the cover. Small boxes and carpet-bags cluster around it, as if they were the 
 old chest's children ; and the old chest, having no wings, but feeling maternal, 
 hovers over tliem with its shadow. And, before embarking, the indefatigable 
 Portuguese has paid duty on a considerable amount of specie. Such is the 
 facetious and somewhat overdrawn picture by which the Brazileiros, the lineal 
 descendants of a common ancestry, solace themselves over their deadly enemies 
 the Portuguese. 
 
 "The class of Brazilians proper — the offspring of the old Portuguese emigrant, 
 — embracing the civil functionary, the army and navy ofiBcer, the priest, and the 
 gentleman of the city and the country — forms about one-third of the popula- 
 tion. The Portuguese population, in number, is about one-sixth. Below these 
 are the varieties, — making about one-half the census, — the negro, mulatto, 
 mestizo, and Indian. The wants of the latter are few and cheap: — a house 
 floored on the naked earth, palm-thatched at the sides and overhead, with 
 hammocks slung diagonally across it for sitting and sleeping, and with attire 
 exceeding Eve's garden-dress merely by a shirt or pantaloons ; besides these, 
 the sea and earth, equally bountiful, spread their tables with plenty. But indi- 
 viduals of one class easily shift into another. Genteel persons sometimes get 
 out of their places and become vagabonds ; while, overcoming the slightest 
 possible obstacle on account of color, exchanges in society are made, as every- 
 where else, by some in subordinate ranks forcing themselves out of their posi- 
 tions upward. 
 
 "A musical furor rages like the dog-star. Piano and harp are vocal in the 
 parlors and saloons. But the guitar — as in the vine-covered cottages of Portugal 
 — is a joy forever in all the households of the poor; while its humbler types — the 
 banjo and marimba — are an equally universal property of the black and all his 
 derivatives. The slave that goes bareheaded, barefooted, and unshirted vexes it 
 (the marimba, — that primitive guitar) in the soft moonlight, before his master's 
 door, in the presence of a bevy of loitering wenches, on whose hearts, as a second 
 instrument, he plays, — taking them captive by the sorcery of his art. The 
 melodies of the North American plantations (the African-born airs of Virginia and 
 Tennessee, long since threadbare in the United States) are, like the smallpox, con- 
 tagious through all ranks of society. A dozen negroes, carrying a large crockery- 
 hogshead slung over their shoulders on bamboos, are mourning, in minor melody. 
 
536 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the fate of 'Poor Old Ned.' In the Street Sant' Anna, from behind a latticed 
 door, one hears a musical voice telling Susannah not to cry.* Aristocratic pianos 
 
 are loud with ' Rosa d' Alabama' 
 and ' Senhoritas de Bufl'alo,' 
 with much more music than 
 prosody. 
 
 "Outside and inside, S. Luiz 
 is a very lovable city. Good- 
 temper, courtesy, and kindness 
 are almost univei-sal. This is 
 confined to no position of life, 
 A ready, overflowing hospitality 
 ^' welcomes the stranger at every 
 I door. 
 
 ''It is very pleasant to draw 
 a picture of Maranham by me- 
 mory, with the bay, dotted over 
 with little islands of verdure 
 broad enough in some places 
 not to permit you to see the 
 '; opposite shores, folding it in 
 the embrace of its two large 
 estuaries ; strange fishermen's 
 craft, picturesque montarias and 
 canoes, lying along the praias ; 
 dainty, tall cocoanuts fringing 
 the profile of the city, as it 
 seems to be thrown carelessly 
 over the sharp ridge that ad- 
 vances into the bay ; groves of 
 "*'"^^\ft bananas and oranges clinging 
 
 THE MARIMBA. On its steep sides; a redolence 
 
 of sweets from native flowers 
 filling the air ; occasional mirantes pretentiously stretching up above tlie general 
 perspective of red tiles ; and the tall tower of the cathedral and the populous 
 turrets of scores of churches pushing their rounded pinnacles into the sky. 
 
 "'Swallows,' says Dr. Johnson, 'certainly sleep all winter. A number of them 
 
 ■v. 
 
 * The wide diffusion of the so-called " Ethiopian Melodies" of the United States is almost incredible. 
 In 1849, at one o'cloclc in the morning, I was riding from Charing Cross to the Surrey side of London, 
 and heard a party of young Englishmen singing, at tlie top of their voices, '"Oil. Susannah!" kc. Once, 
 in passing over the Gloria Hill, at Rio de .Janeiro. I caught the notes of the same tune, which was being 
 performed by one of the Inmates of a Brazilian cottage. But the most unexpected treat, in tliis parti- 
 cular, I experienced in 1S60, at Terracina, — the ancient Anxur. and not fiir from the Three Taverns 
 mentioned in Acts xxviii. 15. It was an Italian midnight ; and, while I was listening to the sound 
 of the Mediterranean wave, as it broke upon the decaying quays of Terracina, and thinking of the long 
 past of old Rome, I was startled by a clear voice (which made the ruins around us ring) sending forth 
 upon the night-air "Old Uncle Ned." It suddenly dashed away every thought of Italy and Rome and 
 carried me most hastily over the ocean. I afterward discovered that the serenader was a Boston 
 Yankee, wlio had wandered to this quiet nook, and who had been so singularly affected by the sacred 
 and classic associations that he gave vent to the " Ancient Uncle Edward," as most in accordance with 
 emotions called forth by the antiquity — classic and sacred — of Terracina. — J. C. F. 
 
How THE Swallows Winter. 537 
 
 conglobulate together by flying round and round, and then, all in a heap, throw 
 themselves under water and lie in the bed of a river.' The first greeting at Maran- 
 ham to the April visitor is the dear old friend the swallow. He builds his house 
 under the tiled eaves. It haunts church-spires in myriads, as though a religious 
 bird. As the sun goes down and shines with diminished beams, and until he 
 finally sinks to rest, far up in the sky little flocks of swallows are seen wheeling in 
 giant circumferences. Sometimes their enemy the vulture, at the same hour of the 
 evening, is up there with his family, airing, after a day spent shamefully among car- 
 casses. Then squadrons of swallows muster and drive him from those azure fields. 
 Now they disport themselves along the earth, now flit on lazy wing above the house- 
 tops, or pick a zigzag way along the airy avenues, among the groves of palm and 
 figs and oranges, or dart away, swift and unerring as an arrow, after some gay 
 butterfly, from which — as riches cannot shield from death — his velvet bosom and 
 painted wings cannot buy him escape. A half-dozen weeks hence, the swallow that 
 sits at the margin of that red tile, teaching her young, with afi"ectionate art, to fly, 
 may, under Northern skies, at home, skim above the fragrant clover-meadows or 
 yellow harvests, or through the blossoming orchard or butternut-clump, or lave her 
 white bosom in the little lake, or sweep along the hill, chasing the shadow of a 
 lazy cloud. Thus are the swallows delightfully occupied during our cold winter, 
 and when the time to migrate arrives they gather in countless hosts on all the 
 house-tops, preparatory to their long journey, to proclaim, with other harbingers, 
 to Northern lands, still brown with the hues of annual death, that light-footed 
 Spring is coming with a power of resurrection. Choicest of the gifts with which 
 man mitigates his lot is the physical charm of all beauteous nature, its mute yet 
 divinely-speaking flowers, and its happy birds, harmonious with more than choral 
 sweetness. 
 
 •'The sight of the pretty white village of Alcantara, of five or six thousand 
 inhabitants, a half-dozen miles distant across the bay, makes one wish to visit 
 the mainland. Alcantara is noted for the production of salt, g.athered, as in 
 some of the West India Islands, from natural pools supplied with water from the 
 oceau at the recurrence of the spring-tides. A few miles farther up the coast is 
 the village of Guimaraens, in the midst of a region abounding in cotton, rice, and 
 mandioca. 
 
 "The twin-bays of San Marks and San Jos6, immediately behind the island 
 of Maranham, are reached from the interior of the province by several rivers — the 
 Pindare, the Mearim, and the Itapicurd — hardly more considerable than the 
 Mohawk or the Upper Wabash. As Alcantara invites you to its shores, these 
 rivers tempt you to ascend their mangrove-lined banks to their sources. 
 
 "The mangrove-tree is present along all the tide-water of Northern Brazil, 
 and at high-water is standing in it at mid-waist, only its branches, sea-green 
 leaves, and a ftew white blossoms above it. Behind it, on the high shore, are lines 
 of towering palms. Vegetable propriety is outraged in the manner in which the 
 mangrove grows. From its shaft, a half-dozen inches in diameter and a half- 
 dozen feet high, it puts forth horizontal branches. These, in turn, drop down 
 suckers, that become rooted into the mud and soon attain the size of the parent 
 stem; and these, in turn, send out other branches and drop other stems, till 
 the tree has grown into a large framework, and so strengthens itself against the 
 tempests. In its deep shadows, where no human foot intrudes, the sericoria 
 — the woodcock of the tropics — fearlessly leads abroad its young. Upon the 
 Tv/ots oysters cling, and, at low-water, present the cui-ious spectacle of bivalves 
 
588 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 growing on trees. The mangrove contains, in great abundance, the principle 
 of tannin, which, in the form of a concocted extract, may become a valuable article 
 of commerce." 
 
 The montaria referred to is thus described by Dr. Kidder : — 
 
 "In the river, in front of the Varadoura, a respectable collection of merchant- 
 vessels may generally be seen at anchor. None of the water-craft, however, appear 
 more picturesque than does the montaria, — a species of flat-boat used much on 
 
 THE MONTARIA. 
 
 these waters. In the first one which I sa.w, I counted ten Indians paddling it 
 rapidly against the tide. They each held a paddle, about the size and shape of an 
 oval spade, perpendicularly in both hands, and, all striking at once into the water, 
 gave the boat great momentum." 
 
 We now bid adieu to the clean, the gay, the hospitable city of 
 San Luir, and steam for Para. 
 
 JVote for 1SG6. — Since this chapter was written, J. C. F. has visited the whole 
 coast from Rio de Janeiro to Panl, and the cities of Bahia and Pernambuco four 
 times in as many years. He would be glad to enumerate the many improvements 
 which have taken place, in railways, &c.; but want of space forbids. ' He cannot, 
 however, forget the many warm receptions, particularly at Pernambuco, from 
 Messrs. Swift, Hitch & Rollins, (the various partners of Henry Forster & Co.,) from 
 S. P. Johnson, from the Baron of Livramento, a "live" Brazilian, from Sr. Tasso, 
 and from the Sa. e Albuquerque family at Gararapes; and neither is he unmindful 
 of the kindness of two eminent Brazilian statesmen, the Visconde de Camarigibe 
 and the Visconde de Boa Vista, as also of Dr. Vasconcellos, editor of the Jornal do 
 Recife. 
 
CHAPTEE XXVI. 
 
 MAGNIFICENCE OF NATURE IN THE BRAZILIAN NORTH THE CITY OF PArX THB 
 
 ENTRANCE OF THE AMAZON THE FIRST PROTESTANT SERMON ON THESE WATERS 
 
 PARALLEL TO THE BLACK-HOLE OF CALCUTTA EFFECTS OF STEAM-NAVIGATION 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS IN PARX THE CANOA BATHING AND MARKET SCENES — 
 
 produce of para — india-rubber — para shoes the amazon river mb. 
 
 Wallace's explorations — the taca marina — cetacea of the amazon — • 
 
 turtle-egg butter — indian archery brazilian birds and insects 
 
 visit to rice-mills near para — journey through the forest — the 
 
 PARANESE bishop's SUSPICIONS OF DR. KIDDER STATE OF RELIGION AT 
 
 PARA. 
 
 We rapidly" steam over the four hundred miles between Maran- 
 ham and Para, and we have reached the eastern edge of the Bra- 
 zilian North, — the maritime border of that vast basin which 
 contains an area equal to that of two-thirds of Europe. We are 
 about entering iipon a region the most wonderful in its nature, — ■ 
 where every object is upon the grandest scale. The mightiest 
 river of the world rises in the loftiest mountains of the Western 
 continent and flows for thousands of miles through forests unparal- 
 leled in beauty, extent, and productiveness. Here the Victoria 
 Regia, the giant of Flora's kingdom, nestles on the bosom of the 
 shady pools, or reposes on the still waters that are shielded by some 
 verdant peninsula from the rushing waves of the never-ceasing 
 flood that pours from the Andes. Millions of the most brilliant- 
 plumagcd birds and insects, curious quadrupeds and reptiles, in- 
 habit this almost terra incognita. Perhaps no region of our globe 
 possessing such Avonders has been so easy of access and so little 
 explored. We are, however, on the eve of a great change : steam 
 is doing its legitimate work, and the present generation may not 
 live to see the Valley of the Amazon, like that of the Mississippi, 
 teeming with millions, but there will be a thorough knowledge of 
 
 its vast resources. Much that is visionary has been written con 
 
 539 
 
540 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 cerning the "mighty Orellana;" and those who are expecting tc 
 behold its fertile shores a hulf-century hence filled with a thrifty 
 population and smiling under civilization are doubtless doomed 
 to disappointment. And, while Southern Brazil will ever be the 
 tit field of enterprise for the European and North American, still, 
 there is no reason to doubt that the statement of Mr. Wallace — 
 the most thorough explorer of the Amazon Valley — is strictly true 
 when he says, "For richness of vegetable production and fertility 
 of soil it is unequalled on the globe, and offers to our notice a 
 natural region capable of suppoi'ting a gi'eater population and 
 supplj'ing it more completely' with the necessaries and luxuries of 
 life than others of equal extent." 
 
 Amazonia should have a volume to itself; but this work would 
 be incomplete without some notices of this portion of the Empire 
 of Brazil, which has always excited a deep interest on both 
 continents. 
 
 The city of Belem, or Para, is usually the point of departure for 
 those visiting the Amazonian region from the East. There was 
 formerly a land and water route from Maranhain to Pani, which 
 has now been abandoned : according to Mr. Southey, it used to be 
 performed by canoes passing through the continent, and coasting 
 around not less than thirty-two bays, many of them so large that 
 sight cannot span them. These bays are connected by a labyrinth 
 of streams and Avaters, so that the voj'age maj* be greatly short- 
 ened by ascending one river with the flow, crossing to another, and 
 descending with the ebb. The distance thus circuitously measured 
 is about three hundred leagues, and maj' be traversed in thirty 
 days. Dr. Kidder says, — 
 
 "I met with one individual who had in early life passed through this inland 
 passage in a much more direct course, his voyage occupying only fourteen days. It 
 was at that golden era when Indian labor was plenty and could be secured at four 
 cents per day. Some years after, the same individual wished to perform this 
 voyage, but was forced to abandon it, from the difficulty of finding canoe-men to serve 
 him even at fifty cents per day. He entertained the most delightful recollections 
 of the route, exhibiting as it did the gloiies of nature in all their pristine loveliness. 
 Nothing interrupted the security of the traveller, and nothing disturbed the silence 
 of those sylvan retreats save the chattering of monkeys or the carolling of birds. 
 The silver expanse of waters, and the magnificent foliage of tropical forests, taller 
 than the world elsewhere contains, and so dense as almost to exclude the light of the 
 Bun, combined to impress the mind with inexpressible grandeur. 
 
 " The canoes were drawn up on shore every night when refreshment and repose 
 

The Entrance of the Amazon. 
 
 541 
 
 were des.red, and the skilful Indians, in a few moments, could secure sufficient 
 game for the subsistence of the party. Thus the voyage was prosecuted with little 
 fatigue and with every diversion." 
 
 In some portions of Brazil where there are so many streams to 
 be crossed, ferry-boats, on some occasions, were formerly extem- 
 porized. An ox-liide was the principal material for the construc- 
 tion, and a slave was the means of propulsion. 
 
 NOVEL FERRY-BOAT. 
 
 Para is situated on the river of the same name, which, some con- 
 tend, is but a continuation of the Tocantins, and not one of the 
 mouths of the Amazon. Mr. Wallace inclines to the former, but 
 general belief to the latter, opinion. 
 
 During the prevalence of certain winds, and owing to the strong 
 currents, which force the fresh water far out to sea, the entrance 
 of the Pani River is sometimes both difficult and dangerous. 
 My colleague thus describes his experience : — 
 
 " We entered this mouth of the Amazon at a fortunate juncture. The weather 
 was so clear that we distinctly saw the breakers on both the Tigoca and Braganza 
 banks, and the tide had just commenced flowing upward. For nearly an hour we 
 could observe, just ahead, the conflict of the ascending and descending waters. 
 Finally, the mighty force of the ocean predominated, and the current of the river 
 seemed to recoil before it. 
 
 " This phenomenon is called, from its aboriginal name, pororoca, and gives cha 
 racter to the navigation of the Amazon for hundreds of miles. No sailing-craft can 
 descend the river while the tide is running up. Hence, both in ascending and 
 descending, distances are measured by tides. For instance. Para is three tides 
 
542 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 from the ocean, and a small vessel entering with the flood must lie at anchor during 
 two ebb-tides before she can reach the city. Canoes are sometimes endangered in 
 the commotion caused by the pororoca, and hence they generally, in anticipation, 
 lie to in certain places called et<peras or resting-places, where the water is known 
 to be but little agitated. Most of the vessels used in the commerce of the Upper 
 Amazon are constructed with reference to this peculiarity of the navigation, being 
 designed for floating on the current rather than for sailing before the wind, although 
 their sails may often be made serviceable. 
 
 "The ebb and flow of the tides in the Amazon are observed with regularity five 
 hundred miles above the mouth, at the town of Obidos. The pororoca is much 
 more violent on the northern side of the island of Marajo, where the mouth is wider 
 and the cm-rent becomes more shallow. 
 
 " As we passed up the great river, the color of the water changed from the dark 
 hue of the ocean we had left to a light green, and afterward, by degrees, to a muddy 
 yellow. We were barely in sight of the southeastern bank of the river; and, after 
 we had ascended more than forty miles, the island of Marajo began to be visible on 
 the opposite side. In the course of the day we approached nearer the continent, 
 and the shore was seen to be uniformly level and densely covered with mangrove- 
 thickets. The only village distinctly seen was Collares, which our commander, 
 Captain Hayden, had captured during the revolution. The whole day we were 
 borne along by the combined force of steam and wind, but the tide was part of the 
 time against us. At evening a clear full moon shed down from an unclouded sky 
 new splendor upon a scene already sublime. A most fragrant breeze from the land 
 became more and more perceptible as the river narrowed. Two boats were the 
 only craft we saw during the whole ascent. Finally, we came alongside the Forte 
 da Barra, two miles distant from the city of Belem, and were hailed as we passed. 
 The lights of the town, and of vessels in front of it, then became visible. We 
 described a semicircle around the harbor, passing between two vessels-of-war, and 
 came to an anchor at ten o'clock. 
 
 "The towers of the cathedral, of the palace, and of several churches, were dis- 
 tinctly visible in the moonlight. 
 
 "The second day after our arrival was the Sabbath, and through the courtesy 
 of Captain H. it was arranged that I should hold a Bethel service on board the 
 Maranhense steamer. Some American seamen were present, and several persons 
 came from the shore. These, together with the ship's company, formed an audience 
 to whom I announced the tidings of the kingdom of God. Making allowance for 
 the circumstance of a public packet just clear of her passengers and the same 
 night going to sea with another supply, the occasion was very favorable for divine 
 service, and I felt truly grateful for the opportunity — probably the first ever enjoyed 
 by any Protestant minister — of attempting to preach Jesus and the resurrection 
 upon the wide waters of the Amazon. I held similar services at Par4 on seven suc- 
 ceeding Sabbaths, — once on board an American vessel in port, and at other times in 
 the private house of a friend. 
 
 " The location of Paril, or the city of Belem, is in 1° 28^ S. latitude and 48° 28' 
 W. longitude. Its site occupies an elevated point of land on the southeastern 
 bank of the Pard, River, the most important mouth of the Amazon. This city ia 
 eighty miles from the ocean, and may be seen from a long distance down the river. 
 It has a very imposing appearance when approached from that direction. Its 
 anchorage is very good, formed by an abrupt curve in the stream, and admits vessels 
 of the largest draft. The great island of Marajo forms the opposite bank, twenty 
 
Effects of the Indian Revolution. 543 
 
 miles distant, but is wholly obscured from sight by intervening and smaller 
 islands. 
 
 "The general appearance of Par4 corresponds to that of most Brazilian towns, 
 presenting an array of whitened walls and red-tiled rOofs. The plan on which it is 
 laid out is not deficient in either regularity or taste. It possesses a number of public 
 squares, and the streets, though not wide, are well paved, or rather macadamized. 
 The proportion of large, well-built houses is respectable, although the back-streets 
 are mostly filled with those that are diminutive in size and iudiiferent in con- 
 struction. 
 
 '♦ The style of dwelling-houses is peculiar, but well adapted to the climate. A 
 wide veranda is an essential portion of every habitation. It sometimes extends 
 quite around the outside of the building, while a similar construction prevails on 
 at least three sides of a spacious area within. A part of the inner veranda, or a 
 room connected with it, serves as the dining-room, and is almost invariably airy and 
 pleasant. The front-rooms only are ceiled, save in the highest and most expensive 
 edifices. Latticed windows are more common than glass, but some houses are fur- 
 nished with both, although preference is always given to the former in the diy sea- 
 son. Instead of small, dark, and unventilated akoves and sweltering beds for 
 sleeping, they have suspension-hooks arranged for swinging hammocks across the 
 corners of all the large rooms, and transversely along the entire sweep of the 
 verandas. Some dwellings contain fixtui'es of this sort for swinging up fifty or 
 sixty persons every night with the least possible inconvenience. 
 
 "The eflFects of the revolution of 1835 are still very apparent in Pari. Almost 
 every street shows a greater or less number of houses battered with bullets or 
 cannon-shot. Some were but slightly defaced, others were nearly destroyed. Of 
 the latter, some have been repaired, others abandoned. The S. Antonio Convent 
 was much exposed to the cannonading, and bears many marks of shot in its walhi. 
 One of the missiles was so unlucky as to destroy an image perched in a lofty nicho 
 on the front of the convent." 
 
 This revolution was one of the most successful on record, 
 where the aborigines, guided by white leaders, nearly regained 
 their power, and for a time held in subjection the European 
 descendants. Para, though now prosperous, has been singularly 
 unfortunate in the check to its progress which has been the 
 heritage of many revolts. 
 
 The traveller, on entering this city, is struck with the peculiar 
 appearance of the people. The regularlj'-descended Portuguese 
 and Africans do not, indeed, differ from their brethren in other 
 parts; but they are comparatively few here, while the Indian race 
 predominates. The aboriginals of Brazil may here be seen both in 
 pure blood and in every possible degree of intermixture with both 
 blacks and whites. They occupy every station in society, and 
 may be seen as the merchant, the tradesman, the sailor, the sol- 
 dier, the priest, and the slave. In the last-named condition they 
 excited most my attention and sympathy. The thought of slavery 
 
544 Brazil and the Braziliaxs. 
 
 is always revolting to an ingenuous mind, wliether it be considered 
 as forced upon the black, the white, or the red man. But there 
 has been a fatality connected with the enslavement of the Indians, 
 extending both to their captors and to themselves, which invests 
 their servitude with peculiar horrors. 
 
 Nearly all the revolutions that have occurred at Para are 
 directl}" or indirectly traceable to the spirit of revenge with which 
 the bloody expeditions of the early slave-hunters are associated in 
 the minds of the natives and mixed bloods thi^oughout the country. 
 The Brazilian revolution in this part of the Empire was attendea 
 "with greater horrors than in an}' other province. 
 
 When the independence of the country was declared, Para was 
 for a time held by the Portuguese authorities. On tlie arrival of 
 Lord Cochrane at Maranham, he despatched one of his officers, 
 (Captain Grenfell,) with a brig-of-war, to take possession of Para. 
 This officer had recourse to a stratagem Avhich, although success- 
 ful, was little more creditable to his bz'avery than his integrity. 
 
 Having arrived near the city, he summoned the place to surren- 
 der, asserting that Lord Cochrane was at anchor below, and, in 
 case of opposition, would enforce his authority with a vengeance. 
 Intimidated b}' this threat, the city hastened to swear allegiance 
 to the throne of Dom Pedro I., and Grenfell managed to have 
 obnoxious individuals expelled before his deceit was found out. 
 Opposition, however, soon sprang up : a party was organized 
 with the intent of deposing the provincial junta. The latter, 
 of course, claimed the protection of Grenfell. He immediately 
 landed with his men, and, joining the troops of the authorities, 
 easil}' succeeded in quelling the insurrection. A large number of 
 prisoners were taken, and five ringleaders in the revolt were shot 
 in the public square. Thence returning on board, he received, the 
 same .evening, an order from the president of the junta to prepare 
 a vessel large enough to hold two hundred prisoners. A ship of 
 six hundred tons' burden was accordingly selected. It afterward 
 appeared that the number of prisoners actually sent on board by 
 the president was two hundred and fifty-three. These men, in 
 the absence of Captain Gi-enfell, were forced into the small hold 
 of the prison-ship, and 2)laced under a guard of fifteen Brazilian 
 soldiers. 
 
Parallel to the Black-Hole of Calcutta. 545 
 
 "Crowded until almost unable to breathe, and suifei-ing alike from heat and 
 thirst, the poor wretches attempted to force their way on deck, but were repulsed 
 by the guard, who, after firing upon them and fastening down the hatchway, threw 
 a piece of ordnance across it and effectually debarred all egress. The stifling sensa- 
 tion caused by this exclusion of air drove the suffering crowd to utter madness, and 
 many are said to have lacerated and mangled each other in the most horrible man- 
 ner. Suffocation, with all its agonies, succeeded. The aged and the young, the 
 etrong and feeble, the assailant and his antagonist, all sank down exhausted and 
 in the agonies of death. In the hope of alleviating their sufferings, a stream of 
 water was at length directed into the hold, and toward morning the tumult abated, 
 but from a cause which had not been anticipated. Of all the two hundred and fifty- 
 three, four only were found alive, who had escaped destruction by concealing them- 
 selves behind a water-butt." — Armitaye, vol. ii. p. 108. 
 
 This dreadful scene is perhaps unparalleled in history, or finds 
 its parallel alone in the black-hole of Calcutta. Its only mitigation 
 consisted in its having been caused by carelessness and ignorance, 
 without "intent to kill." It has, however, but too much affinity 
 with the treatment of the prisoners taken and confined at the same 
 place in the subsequent civil revolutions. Vast numbers of these 
 unhappy men were crowded into the prison of the city and of the 
 fort, where they were kept, without hope of release, until death 
 set them free. Besides, a prison-ship, called the Xin Xin, was 
 tilled to its utmost capacity. Dr. Kidder has estimated that not 
 less than three thousand had died on board that one vessel in the 
 course of five or six years. My colleague thus speaks of the last 
 great revolt at Para : — 
 
 "The disorders that broke out at Pard in 1835 were disastrous in the extreme. 
 They first commenced among the troops. The soldiers on guard at the palace 
 seized an opportunity favorable to their designs, and on the 7th of January simul- 
 taneously assassinated the president of the province, the commander-at-arms, and 
 the port-captain. A sergeant, by the name of Gomez, assumed the command, and 
 commenced 'an indiscriminate slaughter of the Portuguese residents. After twenty 
 or thirty reputable shopkeepers had been killed, these insurgents proceeded to 
 liberate about fifty prisoners, among whom was Felix Antonio Clemento Malcher, 
 an individual who had been elected a member of the provisional junta at the time 
 of Grenfell's invasion, but who was subsequently arrested as the instigator of a 
 rebellion at the Rio Acard. This Malcher was now proclaimed president, and a 
 declaration against receiving any president from Rio until the majority of Dom 
 Pedro II. was formally made. 
 
 "No houses were broken open on this occasion. Order was soon restored, and 
 things remained quiet till the 19th of February. At this time, Francisco Pedro 
 Vinagre, the new commander-at-arms, having heard that he was to be arrested for 
 some cause, called out the soldiers and populace to attack the president. Malcher 
 shut himself up in the Castello fort and attempted to defend himself. In the course 
 of two or three days two hundred men were killed and the president captured. 
 
 35 
 
546 Bkazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 He was sent to the fort at the Barra, below the city, as if to be imprisoned, but 
 was murdered on the way, undoubtedly by the orders of Vinagre, who was now 
 supreme. 
 
 "On the 12th of May an attempt was made, under the constitutional vice-pre- 
 sident, Senhor Correa, to take possession of the town, by landing troops from a 
 squadron of thirteen vessels-of-war. This attempt was repulsed, and the vessels 
 dropped down the river. Soon after, a new president (Senhor Rodriguez) arrived 
 from Rio. On the 24th of June he landed with a body of two hundred and fifty 
 troops, the insurgents having retired toward the interior. Disorders still continuea 
 in the province, and, on the 14th of August, a body of Indians, led on by Vinagre 
 and others, suddenly descended upon the capital. They obtained possession of the 
 city and commenced an indiscriminate massacre of the whites. The citizens were 
 obliged to defend themselves as they best could. Vinagre fell in the midst of a 
 street-skirmish. An English and a French vessel-of-war, lying in the harbor, sent 
 on shore a body of marines, but soon withdrew them on account of the pusillani- 
 mous conduct of the president. 
 
 " The Indians commenced firing upon the palace from the highest houses of which 
 they could get possession, and artillery from the palace attempted to return the 
 fire. The president, however, soon withdrew and abandoned the city to destruc- 
 tion. Many families succeeded in escaping on board vessels in the harbor, but 
 many others fell victims to rapine and murder. Edurado, the principal leader after 
 the death of Vinagre, endeavored to protect the property of foreigners, and, to some 
 extent, succeeded : nevertheless, as fast as possible, the foreign residents withdrew 
 from the city, and thought themselves fortunate to escape with their lives. The 
 period that ensued might with propriety be called the reign of terror. But it was 
 not long a quiet reign. Disorders broke out among the i-ebels, and mutual assassi- 
 nations became common. Business was effectually broken up, and the city was 
 as fast as possible reverting to a wilderness. Tall grass grew up in the streets, 
 and the houses rapidly decayed. The state of the entire province became similar. 
 Anarchy prevailed throughout its vast domains. Only a single town of the Upper 
 Amazon maintained its iiitegrity to the Empire. Lawlessness and violence became 
 the order of the day. Plantations were burned, the slaves and the cattle were 
 killed, and in some large districts not a white person was allowed to survive. 
 
 "In May of the following year, General Andr6a arrived as a new president from 
 the Imperial Government and forced his way into the capital. He proclaimed 
 martial law, and, by means of great firmness and severity, succeeded in restoring 
 order to the province. It was, however, at the cost of much blood and many lives. 
 He was accused of tyranny and inhumanity in his course toward the rebels and 
 prisoners ; but the exigencies of the case were great, and furnished apologies. 
 One of the most disgraceful things charged upon him and his officers was the abuse 
 made of their authority in plundering innocent citizens, and also in voluntarily 
 protracting the war so that their selfish ends might be advanced. Certain it is that 
 the waste of life, the ruin of property, and the declension of morals, were all com- 
 bined and lamentably continued ; and yet in this state of things we see nothing but 
 the fruits of that violence and injury which, from the first colonization of Par& by 
 the Portuguese, had been practised against the despised Indians. 
 
 "In addition to the more direct consequences of the disorders, the salubrity 
 of the country and of the city itself fearfully deteriorated. The rapid growth and 
 the equally rapid decay of vegetable matter on the spots from which years of culti- 
 vation had banished it brought on epidemics and other fatal diseases, which swept 
 
Effects of Steam-Navigation. 547 
 
 ofiF hundreds tf the people that survived the wars. Thus, one of the richest and 
 fairest portions of the earth was nearly desolated. 
 
 "Until 1848 it was only by slow degrees that Pard recovered. Nothing, indeed, 
 but the extraordinary and spontaneous fertility of the whole region has enabled 
 the province, in any considerable degree, to reclaira its business-relations. Not- 
 withstanding all the natural beauties so profusely exhibited at Pard, — reminding 
 one, at every step and at every glance, of the. glorious munificence of the Creator, 
 — there are but few places which suggest sadder reflections upon the wickedness 
 and misery of man. Until within a few years, we can scarcely point to a bright 
 spot in its history. During the early periods that succeeded its settlement by 
 Europeans, a continual crusade was carried on against the aboriginals of the soil, 
 for the purpose of reducing them to a state of servitude. In vain were the reason- 
 ing and power of the Jesuits arrayed in opposition to this course. In vain was 
 African slavery introduced as its substitute. The cruel and sanguinary purposes 
 of the Portuguese were persevered in. An innocent and inoffensive people were 
 pursued and hunted down in their own forests like beasts of prey. Thus, iniquity 
 triumphed ; but a terrible retribution followed. The foul passions which had been 
 nurtured in the persecution of the Indians were equally malevolent when excited 
 against each other by the common jealousies and differences of life. For a long 
 time previous to the outbreak of 1835, assassinations had been the order of the 
 day. Scarcely a night passed without the occurrence of more or less. No man's 
 life was secure. Revenge rioted in blood. This was too much the case in other 
 parts of the country at the same peiiod, but at Pard worse than elsewhere. Then 
 followed the dreadful scenes already described, in which the long-degraded and 
 down-trodden Indians, headed by fictious and intriguing men, gained the ascend- 
 ency in turn and drove the white population into exile." 
 
 It is a singular fact that Brazil was the first country of South 
 America, and perhaps, for an Empire so vast, the first in the world, 
 to bind her provinces together by steam-navigation. Para is now 
 reaping the fruits of this Avise measure. The great old Convent 
 of S. Antonio has but few monks, and recently the greater portion 
 of its spacious grounds has been sold to the Amazon Navigation 
 Company, (a Brazilian association.) This company is now erecting 
 on or near these grounds the large workshops, coal-depots, wharves, 
 &c. so essential to the proper prosecution of their various and ex- 
 tended steam-interests. The Custom-House was formerly a huge 
 ecclesiastical building, and the barracks of the standing arni}^ once 
 belonged to the order of Carmelites. A great number of new 
 houses have been recently erected from the Custom-House to the 
 Castello fort, and an extensive pier has been constructed where 
 formerly there were no facilities for landing except that which the 
 beach afforded. The streets were, a few years since, in a wretched 
 state ; but from the date of the regular steamers on the Amazon (1853) 
 there has been a vast improvement. Nearly all are macadamized, 
 
548 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 and are well lighted by campliene. Formerly the rede and the 
 most antiquated Portuguese vehicles were the only means of land- 
 conveyance in Parti. Mr. Henderson (to whom I am indebted for 
 recent information) says that there are now nearly fifty coaches, 
 (of Newark and Boston manufacture,) which are at the command 
 of citizens or visitors ; and on Sunday j)articularly are they most 
 busily occupied iu plying between Para and Nazare at the modest 
 rate of twentj^-five cents each passenger. The ladies formerlj^ made 
 their calls and visits by being carried in a hammock : they noAv ride 
 behind a pair of handsome grays. A few years only have elapsed 
 since nearly all the water was carried in truly Oriental style, and 
 the following beautiful description of Dr. Kidder is still most 
 accurate so far as nature is concei-ned; but in regard to the water- 
 carriers the 'picturesque is diminishing, while the convenient is 
 gaining: — 
 
 " The evening and morning scenes that may be enjoyed at Pard are indescribably 
 beautiful. At night all is still, save the occasional rustling of a balmy breeze ; and 
 the imagination must be vivid that can picture to itself more loveliness than is ex- 
 hibited when the moon walks forth in her splendor. The dark luxuriant foliage, 
 crovrning hundreds of spreading trees, is burnished with a mellow lustre too ex- 
 quisite for words to portray ; while the waving plumes of numerous palm-trees, 
 glancing their reflections downward upon the beholder, add to the charms of the 
 scenery. The opening blossoms of many fruit-trees and humbler flowers load the 
 air with a fragrance which is none the less grateful from not being mingled, as in 
 some of the larger towns, with oflFensive effluvia. The blandness of the evening air 
 is in delightful contrast to the rigors of the noonday sun, and an occasional breeze 
 invigorates the system after either the confinement or the exposure of the day. 
 Although in the course of the night there falls a copious dew, yet so balmy and 
 healthful is the atmosphere that there is no dread of exposing to it the most deli- 
 cate constitution. This is the climate that of all others I would seek as a relief to 
 enfeebled health, and especially for pectoral aff'ections. 
 
 "A morning scene is scarcely inferior in effect. I sometimes went out to enjoy 
 it long before the mild radiance of the moon was lost in the more powerful beams 
 of the king of day, who at his appointed time rose through a brief twilight and 
 hastened on his effulgent course through the cloudless ether. The Brazilians are 
 generally early risers, and it may be remarked that in their towns generally the 
 foreign houses are those latest opened for business. Nevertheless, there are few 
 who walk abroad for the pleasure or exercise of walking. Almost the only persons 
 met in my morning walks at Pard were the negroes and Indians, in countless num- 
 bers, going with earthen jars upon their heads for water. 
 
 " There is no artificial fountain in the whole city. The only source of drinking- 
 water is a spring on the eastern side of the town. Jars of this water are sometimes 
 earned around on horseback for sale, to accommodate those who do not keep a large 
 supply of servants. A few wells in the suburbs, together with the current of the 
 river, fui'uish water for washing and similar purposes," 
 
The Ox-Carts and Advancing Civilization. 549 
 
 Though a few tottering and almost skeleton horses may still be 
 seen staggering under the load of four water-jars, a better day has 
 dawned upon Para. The introduction of more than two hundred 
 water-carts, drawn each by a single ox, is an event to be chronicled 
 as an advance in civilization, and shows as much improvement as 
 macadamized streets and modern carriages. The Brazilian is far 
 more flexible than the Portuguese. A few j-ears ago, a benevolent 
 citizen of the United States endeavored, at his own cost, to furnish 
 the peasantry of some of the Portuguese islands with suitable and 
 civilized carts instead of the inconvenient clumsy vehicles which 
 they and their fathers before them had been using for centui-ies. 
 His benevolent enterprise was entirely frustrated, for they Avould 
 not give up their antiquated ox-killing carts. In 1856, Portugal 
 was the only division of Europe, excepting Turkey, that did not 
 possess a railway. The water-carts of Para are similar in shaj^e 
 to that depicted on page 175. 
 
 AVhile the city fronts upon the river, its rear is skirted by a 
 shaded walk whose equal would be difficult to find in Brazil. The 
 Estrada das Mangubeiras is a highway extending from near the 
 Marine Arsenal on the river side to the Largo da Polvora on the 
 eastern extremity of the cit}''. It is intersected b}' avenues lead- 
 ing from the Palace Square and the Largo do Quartel. Its name 
 is derived from the mangabeira-trees with which it is densely 
 shaded on either side. The bark of these shade-trees is of a light 
 grayish color, regularly striped with green; their product is a 
 coarse cotton that may be used for several purposes: their appear- 
 ance is at once neat and majestic. 
 
 On the grounds of the old Convent — now the Hospital — of S. 
 Jose, a botanical garden was laid out in 1797; but it was neglected, 
 and finally abandoned during the troublous times of 182.3 and '35. 
 
 In 1854, during the presidency of the distinguished and talented 
 Sebastiao do Eego Barros, formerly Minister of War, the site for 
 a new botanical garden was laid out farther from the city and on 
 a far more extensive scale. He sent to Europe and procured five 
 or six skilful professional gardeners, who designed a handsome 
 plan for the new works, which will doubtless soon be prosecuted 
 to completion. 
 
 Beyond the actual precincts of the city, one may instantly bury 
 
550 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 himself in a dense forest and become shut out from every indica- 
 tion of the near residence of man. 
 
 The coolness of these silent shades is always inviting, but the 
 stranger must beware lest he loses his way and thus be subjected 
 to many annoyances and difficulties. Formerly there were many 
 stories told of persons who became bewildered in the mazes of 
 these thickets, and, though but a short distance off, were utterly 
 unable to find their w\ay back to town. Several j)ersons are 
 believed to have perished in this manner. 
 
 All important posts throughout the town are regularlj" guarded, 
 and whoever approaches after eight o'clock at night is hailed with 
 a harsh, indistinct call: — " Quern vat Id?" (Who goes there ?) The 
 proper answer is, ^^Amigo," (A friend,) — which many contract to a 
 swinish grunt. To this the condescending permission, " Passa 
 largo!" is generally retorted by the soldier, and the person goes by. 
 
 My colleague, in giving his experience at Para, thus writes: — 
 
 " As my lodgings were opposite the trem, or military arsenal, my ears became 
 very familiar with these exclamations, whicii were vociferated the whole night long. 
 Not only these, but the piercing scream, 'As armasr which resounded every hour 
 when guard was relieved, and the blowing of a horn at frequent intervals, — as, 
 for example, at Ave Maria, when all the soldiers doif their caps in honor of the 
 Virgin, — formed no small annoyance, at least during houi's allotted to repose. 
 Another peculiar custom of Par4 is the ringing of bells and the discharge of 
 rockets at a veiy early hour of the morning. I sometimes heard it at four o'clock, 
 and with much regularity at five. [In 1862, J. C. F. occupied the same room.] 
 
 " Few objects at Pard attract more attention from the stranger than the fashion- 
 able craft of the river. Vessels of all sizes — from that of a sloop down to a shallop 
 — are called canoas. Few canoes proper, however, are in use. The montaria, seen 
 and described at Maranham, is very common in the harbor. 
 
 "The large cattoas, made for freighting on the river, appear construcited for any 
 thing else rather than water-craft. Both stem and stern are square. The hull 
 towers up out of the water like that of a Chinese junk. Over the quarter-deck is 
 constructed a species of awning, or round-house, generally made of thatch, to pro 
 tect the navigator against the sun by day and the dew by night, and, it also may 
 be added, against the moon ; for the Paraenses are very superstitious in regard 
 to the silver beams of Luna. Sometimes a similar round-house is constructed 
 over the bows, giving something like homogeneity to the appearance of the vessel. 
 This arrangement rendei's it necessary to have a staging or spar-deck rigged up, on 
 which to perform the labors of navigation. The steersman generally sits perched 
 upon the roof of the after round-house. The idea continually disturbing my mind 
 while beholding these canoas was, that, being so top-heavy, they were liable to over- 
 set, as they most inevitably would if exposed to a gale of wind. They are thought, 
 however, to answer very well their purpose of floating upon the tide. Moreover, 
 one special advantage of the round-house is that it furnishes room for the swinging 
 of hammocks, and thus saves the canoe-men the trouble of going on shore to sua- 
 
 J 
 
Bathing and Market Scenes. 
 
 551 
 
 pend them on the trees. Mr. Mawe says that, in descending the Amazon, he passed 
 a man who had moored his canoe while he fastened his bed upon some branches 
 of a tree overhanging the water and took a nap ! 
 
 AMAZONIAN CANOA. 
 
 "The street running parallel to the river and connecting with the several land- 
 ings is that in which the commercial business of the place is principally transacted. 
 At certain hours of the day it presents a vei'y lively appearance. 
 
 "Various objects and customs are observed at Para that appear altogether pecu- 
 liar to the place, lu one section of the city, when animals are slaughtered for 
 market, va.-'t numbers of vultures are observed perched upon the trees or wheeling 
 lazily through the air. Along the margin of the river, both morning and evening, 
 great numbers of people may be seen bathing. No ceremonies are observed at these 
 very necessary, and no doubt very agreeable, ablutions. Men, women, and chil- 
 di'en — belonging to the lower classes as a matter of course — may be seen at the 
 same moment diving, plunging, and swimming in different directions. 
 
 "There is generally a crowd of canoes around Ponta da Pedra, the principal 
 landing-place. These, together with the crowd of Indians busily hurrying to and 
 fro, conversing in the mingled dialects of the Amazon, are peculiar to Par4. Here 
 may be seen cargoes of Brazil-nuts, cacdo, varrilla, annatlo, sarsaparilla, cimiamon, 
 tapioca, balsam of copaiba in pots, coarse dried fish in packages, and baskets 
 of fruits, in infinite variety, both green and dry. Here are also parrots, macaws, 
 aud some other birds of gorgeous plumage, and occasionally monkeys and serpents, 
 together with gum-elastic shoes, which are generally brought to market suspended 
 on long poles to prevent their coming in contact with each other. These formerly 
 arrived in immense quantities ; but now the ' India-rubber' is mostly conveyed to 
 market in the shape of small slabs. 
 
 "The indigenous produce of the province of Para is immense in quantity and 
 of great value. If the people were only industrious in collecting what nature fur- 
 
552 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 nishes so bountifully to their hands, they could not avoid being rich. If enter- 
 prising cultivation were added to that degree of industry, there is no limit to the 
 vegetable wealth wnicli might be drawn from this treasure-house of nature. 
 
 "Rice, cotton, sugar, and hides are exported in small quantities, and are pro- 
 duced by the ordinary methods. The trade in gum-elastic, cac4o, sarsaparilla, 
 cloves, uructi, and Brazil-nuts, is more peculiar. 
 
 " The use of the caoutchouc or gum-elastic was learned from the Omaguas, — 
 a tribe of Brazilian Indians. These savages used it in the form of bottles and 
 syringes: (hence the name syringe-tree.) It was their custom to present a bottle 
 of it to evei-y guest at the beginning of one of their feasts. The Portuguese settlers 
 in Para were the first who profited by turning it to other uses, converting it into 
 shoes, boots, hats, and garments. It was found to be specially serviceable in a 
 country so much exposed to rains and floods. But of late the improvements in its 
 manufacture have vastly extended its uses and made it essential to the health and 
 comfort of the whole enlightened world. The aboriginal name of this substance 
 was cahuchii, the pronunciation of which is nearly pi-eserved in the word caoutchouc. 
 At Par4 it is now generally called syringa, and sometimes borracha. It is the pro- 
 duct of the Siphilla elaslica, — a tree which grows to the height of eighty and some- 
 times one hundred feet. It generally runs up quite erect, forty or fifty feet, without 
 branches. Its top is spreading, and is ornamented with a thick and glossy foliage. 
 On the slightest incision the gum exudes, having at first the appearance of thick, 
 yellow cream. 
 
 ''The trees are generally tapped in the morning, and about a gill of the fluid is 
 collected from one incision in the comse of the day. It is caught in small cups 
 of clay, moulded for the purpose with the hand. These are emptied, when full, 
 into a jar. No sooner is this gum collected than it is ready for immediate use. 
 Forms of various kinds, representing shoes, bottles, toys, &c., are in readiness, 
 made of clay. 
 
 "When the rough shoes of ParS. are manufactured, it is a matter of economy to 
 have wooden lasts. These are first coated with clay, so as to be easily withdrawn. 
 A handle is aflBxed to the last for the convenience of working. The fluid is poured 
 over the form, and a thin coating immediately adheres to the clay. The next move- 
 ment is to expose the gum to the action of smoke. The substance ignited for this 
 purpose is the fruit of the wassoi^-palm. This fumigation serves the double purpose 
 of drying the gum and of giving it a darker color. When one coating is suflBcieutly 
 hardened, another is added and smoked in turn. Thus, any thickness can be pro- 
 duced. It is seldom that a shoe receives more than a dozen coats. The work, 
 when formed, is exposed to the sun. For a day or two it remains soft enough to 
 receive permanent impressions. During this time the shoes are figured according 
 to the fuicy of the operatives, by the use of a style or pointed stick. They retain 
 their yellowish color for some time after the lasts are taken out and they are con- 
 sidered ready for market. Indeed, they are usually sold when the gum is so fresh 
 that the pieces require to be kept apart : hence, pairs of shoes are generally tied 
 together and suspended on long poles. They may be seen daily at Pard, suspended 
 over the decks of the canoes that come down the river and on the shoulders of the 
 men who deliver them to the merchants. Those who buy the shoes for exportation 
 commonly stuff them with dried' grass to preserve their extension. Various persons 
 living in the suburbs of Par4 collect the caoutchouc and manufacture it on a small 
 scale. But it is from the surrounding forest-country, whei-e the people are almost 
 entirely devoted to this business, that the market is chiefly supplied. The gum 
 
I 
 
 India-Hubber. 
 
 553 
 
 may be gathered during the entire year ; but it is more easily collected and more 
 serviceable during the dry season. The months of May, June, July, and August 
 are specially devoted to its preparation. Besides great quantities of this substance 
 which leave Pard in other forms, there have been exported for some years past 
 about three hundred thousand pairs of gum-elastic shoes annually. Tliere are, 
 however, some changes in the form of its exportation ; and a few years ago a patent 
 was taken out, by an American in Brazil, covering an invention for exporting 
 caoutchouc in a liquid form. The Amazonian region now supplies, and probably 
 will long continue to supply, in a great degree, the present and the rapidly- 
 increasing demand for this material. Several other trees — most of them belonging 
 to the tribe Euphorbiacioe — produce a similar gum ; but none of them is likely to 
 enter into competition with the India-rubber tree of Pari. 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF INDIA-RUBBER SHOES. 
 
 "Another tree, not uncommon in tlie province, called the massaranduba, yields 
 a white secretion, which so resembles milk that it is much prized for an aliment. 
 It forms, when coagulated, a species of plaster, which is deemed valuable. The 
 trees yield the fluid in great profusion. Their botanical character has never been 
 properly investigated. It has been said that the juice of the India-rubber tree la 
 also sometimes used as milk, and that the negroes and Indians who work in its 
 preparation are said to be fond of drinking it ; but a young lady who drank it at 
 Pai'4 died from the effects of the coagulation in her stomach. 
 
 " The annato or urucd is another valuable production of Pard. This is a well- 
 known coloring-matter of an orange dye. It is a product of the tree known to 
 botanists as tlie Bixa orellana. This tree grows ordinarily to about the size and 
 form of the quince-tree, and exhibits clusters of red and white flowers. Its coloring- 
 matter was extensively used by the aboriginals at the period of discovery. By 
 means of it they formed various kinds of paint, and were fond of besmearing the 
 whole surface of their bodies with it. 
 
554 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 " The preparation used in commerce is the oily pulp of the seed, which is rubbed 
 off and then left to ferment. After fermentation it is rolled into cakes weighing 
 from two to three pounds, and in this form is exported. Cacdo — the substance 
 from which chocolate is prepared — is a common and valuable production of Pari. 
 It is made from the seeds of the Theobroma cacdo, represented on page 5-9. 
 
 "It would be an interesting although an almost endless task to investigate the 
 botany of the Amazon. Laurels are yet to be won in this field of science ; and it 
 mus.t be set down as by no means complimentary to American botanists that they 
 have not entered it as competitors. I have often heard of Burchell as having re- 
 sided some time at Pari ; but I apprehend that he was, at the period of his visit, 
 too far advanced in years to do full justice eitjier to his own reputation or to the 
 interminable field here spread before him." 
 
 The most thorough exploration of the Amazon has been by an 
 Enghshman, — Mr. Alfred R. Wallace, whose attention was directed 
 to Northern Brazil by Mr. Edwards's little book, "A Voyage up the 
 Amazon." With the enthusiasm known only to the naturalist, he 
 entered upon this almost untrodden field in 1848, and, after de- 
 voting himself to the study of the strange and beautiful objects 
 which abound in the remotest portions of the interior, in 1852 he 
 gave up his wandering and romantic life among the almost unknown 
 aborigines, and returned to England laden with Flora's richest 
 spoils. But, alas ! the burning of the ship on his homeward voyage 
 not only caused the loss of his entire collection, but for many days 
 his life was exposed in an open boat upon the broad Atlantic. Not- 
 withstanding the great loss of materials, — which every naturalist 
 and traveller can fully appreciate, — he prepared on Northern Brazil 
 the two most interesting volumes extant. He went not to study 
 the government and the people, but the Indians, forests, flowers, 
 birds, and the wild beasts of Amazonia. Whoever wishes a fresh 
 and reliable book on nature can turn to Mr. Wallace with a surety 
 that he will find in the "Narrative of Travels on the Amazon and 
 Rio Negro" a deeplj^-interesting book for general reading, and in 
 the "Palms of the Amazon" a little volume which the naturalist 
 will count among his best treasures. 
 
 The waters of the great river are scarcely less productive than 
 the soil of its banks. Innumerable species of fish and amphibious 
 animals abound in it. Several large kinds of fish are salted and 
 dried for use. But the commerce in this article of food does not 
 extend bej^ond the coast. Owing to the style of preparation, or to 
 the coarse quality of the fish, foreigners set no value upon it. The 
 
Fish at the Falls of the Madeira. 655 
 
 most remarkable inhabitant of these waters is the vaca marina, 
 commonly called by the Portuguese peixe boi, or fish-ox. This 
 name is evidently given on account of the animal's size, rather 
 than from any resemblance to the ox or cow other than its being 
 mammiferous. 
 
 The vaca marina cannot be called amphibious, since it never 
 leaves the water. It feeds principally upon a water-plant (cana 
 brava) that floats on the borders of the stream. It often raises its 
 head above the water to respire as well as to feed upon this vege- 
 table. At these moments it is attacked and captured. It has only 
 two fins, which are small and situated near its head. The udders 
 of the female are beneath these fins. This has been pronounced 
 the largest fish inhabiting fresh water; but, notwithstanding its 
 
 PEIXE BOI, OR VACA MARINA. 
 
 mammoth dimensions, — being, according to various accounts, from 
 eight to seventeen feet long, and two to three feet thick at the 
 widest part, — its eyes are extremely small, and the orifices of its 
 ears are scarcely larger than a pin-head. Its skin is very thick 
 and hard, — not easily penetrated by a musket-ball. The Indians 
 used to make shields of it for their defence in war. Its fat and 
 flesli have always been in estimation. It served the natives in 
 place of beef Not having salt for the purpose, they used to pre- 
 serve the flesh by means of smoke. 
 
 The waters of the Amazon up to the very base of the Andes are 
 inhabited by several species of cetacea, of which we have very 
 scanty information. Mr. Nesbitt — who was the chief engineer on 
 the Peruvian Government steamei's built in New York and taken 
 up the Amazon, and who spent a number of years on the King 
 of Waters and its afliiients — has kindly fui-nished me several items 
 concerning i\\Q fauna of that region : — 
 
556 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 " There are thousands of tlie regular sea-porpoise in the Amazon and its affluents, 
 at the very foot of the xVndes. Indeed, I have seen larger schools of them in the 
 Huallaga than I ever saw in the Hudson, and of enormous dimensions. Fish of 
 every kind is very abundant in all the rivers and lakes. 
 
 "At the Falls of the Rio Madeira the traveller will halt and gaze with wonder 
 at the vast multitude of fish of all kinds and sizes — from the huge cow-fish to the 
 little sardine — struggling with might and main to ascend the foaming, dashing 
 current, without the slightest hope of success. Presently, some monster will make 
 a dash at a school of his small congeners, when suddenly there will be a cloud 
 of all sorts and sizes leaping in the air and trying to dodge their ravenous pursuer. 
 All that is necessary for one wishing a fish is to take his canoe-paddle and 
 strike right or left, when he is sure to hit: he cannot possibly miss. Here are 
 almost always to be found great numbers of Indians collecting, salting, and drying 
 fish. The peixe boi is an excellent fish for food; I would almost as soon have it for 
 the table, in every shape, as the best veal : indeed, it might be palmed upon the 
 unwary for that article. It is also equal to the best dried beef for chi2)ping, in the 
 estimation of many. 
 
 "In this connection I might mention the Tartaruga, or turtle of the Amazon: 
 these are to be found by the thousand in nearly all the affluents, — especially the 
 Madeira, Purus, Napo, Ucayali, and Huallaga. At the season for them to deposit 
 their eggs on the 'praias,' the streams will be fairly speckled with them, paddling 
 their clumsy carcasses up to their native sand-bar ; for it is positively asserted by the 
 natives that the turtle will not deposit its eggs anywhere except where it was 
 itself hatched out. They lay from eighty to one hundred and twenty eggs every 
 other year. Of this I have been assured by persons who have artificial ponds and 
 keep them the year round for their own table. September and October are the 
 months for depositing their eggs." 
 
 Dr. Kidder says : — 
 
 " The turile-egg butter of Amazonia (manteiga da tartaruga) is a substance quite 
 peculiar to this quarter of the globe. At certain seasons of the year the turtles 
 appear by thousands on the banks of the rivers, in order to deposit their eggs upon 
 the sand. The noise of their shells striking against each other in the rush is said 
 to be sometimes heard at a great distance. Their work commences at dusk and 
 ends with the following dawn, when they I'etire to the water. 
 
 "During the daytime the inhabitants collect these eggs and pile them up in heaps 
 resembling the stacks of cannon-balls seen at a navy-yard. These heaps are often 
 twenty feet in diameter, and of a corresponding height. While yet fresh they are 
 thrown into wooden canoes, or other large vessels, and broken with sticks and 
 stamped fine with the feet. AVater is then poured on, and the whole is exjjosed to 
 the rays of the sun. The heat brings the oily matter of the eggs to the surface, 
 from which it is skimmed off with cuyas and shells. After this it is subjected 
 to a moderate heat until ready for use. When clarified, it has the appearance of 
 butter that has been melted. It always retains the taste of fish-oil, but is much 
 prized for seasoning by the Indians and those who are accustomed to its use. It is 
 conveyed to market in earthen jars. In earlier times it was estimated that nearly 
 two hundred and fifty millions of turtles' eggs were annually destroyed in the manu- 
 facture of this manteiga. Recently the number is less, owing to the gradual 
 inroads made upon the turtle race, and also to the advance of civilization." 
 
 But the Government now regulates the turtle-egg harvest, so that 
 
The Great Skill of the Caboclo Archers. 557 
 
 their numbers may not be so rapidly diminished. There are some 
 extensive beaches AVhich yield two thousand pots of oil annually: 
 each pot contains five gallons, and requires about twenty-five hun- 
 dred eggs, which w^ould give five million ova destroyed in one 
 locality. 
 
 Indeed, it is a wonder how the turtles can ever come to maturity. 
 As the}'- issue from the eggs and make their way to the water, 
 many enemies ai'e awaiting them. Huge alligators swallow them 
 by hundreds; the jaguars feed upon them;* eagles, buzzards, and 
 great wood-ibises are their devourers; and, when they have escaped 
 these land-foes, many ravenous fishes are ready to seize them in 
 the stream. They are, however, so prolific, that it has remained 
 for their most fatal enemy, man, to visibly diminish their number. 
 
 The Indians take the full-grown turtle in a net, or catch him 
 with a hook, or shoot him with an arrow. The latter is a most 
 ingenious method, and requires more skill than to shoot a bird upon 
 the wing. The turtle never shows its back above the Avater, but, 
 rising to breathe, its nostrils only are protruded above the surface : 
 so slight, however, is the rippling that none but the Indian's keen 
 eyes perceive it. If he shoot an ari'ow obliquely it would glance 
 off the smooth shell: therefore he aims into the air, and apparently 
 "draws a bow at a ventui^e;" but he sends up his missile with such 
 wonderfully accurate judgment that it describes a parabola and 
 descends nearly vertically into the back of the turtle. (Wallace.) 
 The arrow-head fits loosely to the shaft, and is attached to it by a 
 long fine cord carefully wound around the wood, so that when the 
 turtle dives the barb descends, the string unwinds, and the light 
 shaft forms a float or buoy, which the Indian secures, and by the 
 attached cord he draws the prize up into his canoe. Neai'ly all 
 the turtles sold in market are taken in this manner, and the little 
 
 * " The jaguar, say the Indians, is the most cunning animal in the forest: he can 
 imitate the voice of almost every bird and animal so exactly as to draw them 
 toward him : he fishes in the rivers, lashing the water with his tail to imitate ftxlling 
 fruit, and, when the fish approach, hooks them up with his claws. He catches and 
 eats turtles, and I have myself found the unbroken shells, which he has completely 
 cleaned out with his paws: he even attacks the cow-fish in its own element, and an 
 (!ye-witness assured me that he had watched one dragging out of the water this 
 bulky animal, weighing as much as a large ox." — Wallace 
 
558 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 square vertical hole made by the arrow-head may generally be seen 
 in the shell. 
 
 In connection ^yith this might be mentioned the archery of some 
 of the civilized Indians in various portions of the Empire. A large 
 and strong bow is bent by their legs. In this way they are able to 
 shoot game at a great distance. 
 
 CABOCLO ARCHERS. 
 
 As to the birds of the Amazon, they are everywhere brilliant 
 beyond birds in any other portion of the world. Some, like the 
 dancing cock of the rock, and the curious and little-known umbrella- 
 bird, are very difficult to obtain. I can only mention the latter. 
 
 This singular bird is about the size of a raven, and is of a similar 
 colorj but its feathers have a more scaly appearance, from being 
 margined with a different shade of glossy blue. On its head it 
 bears a crest different from that of any other bird. It is formed 
 of feathers more than two inches long, very thickly set, and with 
 hair}'' plumes cui'ving over at the end. These can be laid back so 
 as to be hardly visible, or can be erected and spread out on every 
 side, forming, as has been remarked, '' a hemispherical, or rather 
 a hemi-ellifjsoidal, dome, completely covering the head, and even 
 reaching beyond the point of the beak." It inhabits the flooded 
 islands of the Eio Negi'O and the Solimoes, never apj)earing on tho 
 
The Umbrella-Bird. 
 
 559 
 
 mainland. It feeds on fruits, and utters a loud, hoarse cry, like 
 Bume deep musical instrument, — whence its Indian name, Uera- 
 mimbe, "trumpet-bird." 
 
 And what can be said of the countless tribes of insects that 
 swarm in the Amazonian 
 forests ? My first ac- 
 quaintance with the rich 
 livino; a*ems of Brazil was 
 made at the retired resi- 
 dence of Mr. G., in the 
 lovely Larangeiras at Eio 
 de Janeiro, and after- 
 ward in various parts of 
 the Emj)ire. I did not 
 cease to wonder at the 
 innumerable and bril- 
 liant hosts of Lepidop- 
 tera, Coleoptera, Heli-co- 
 niida?, &c. &c. It would 
 require volumes to note 
 them. In the vicinity 
 of Para itself there is 
 ample opportunity for 
 the study of nature. 
 
 Dr. Kidder visited the 
 American ricc-mills situated twelve miles distant from the city, 
 and thus describes the excursion : — 
 
 THE UMBREL LA-BI R 0. 
 
 " Our way led through a deep, unbroken forest, of a density and a magnitude 
 of which I had, before penetrating it, but a faint conception. Notwithstanding this 
 is one of the most public roads leading to or from the city, yet it is only for a short 
 distance passable for carriages. Indeed, the branches of trees are not unfrequeutly 
 in the way of the rider on horseback. ■ A negro is sent through the path periodically 
 with a sabre to clip the increasing foliage and branches before they become too 
 formidable. Thus the road is kept open and pleasant. Notwithstanding the heat 
 of the sun in these regions at noonday, and the danger of too much exposure to 
 its rays, an agreeable coolness always pervades those retreats of an Amazonian 
 forest, whose lofty and umbrageous canopy is almost impenetrable. The brilliancy 
 of the sun's glare is mellowed by innumerable reflections upon the polished surface 
 of the leaves. Many of the trees are remarkably straight and very tall. Some 
 of them are decked from top to bottom with splendid flowers and parasites, while 
 
560 Brazil and the Brazilians, 
 
 the trunks and boughs of nearly all are interlaced with innumerable runners and 
 creeping vines. 
 
 "These plants form a singular feature of the more fertile regions of Brazil. But 
 it is on the boi'ders of the Amazon that they appear in their greatest strength and 
 luxuriance. They twist around the trees, climbing up to their tops, then grow 
 down to the ground, and, taking root, spring up again and cross from bough to 
 bough and from tree to tree, wherever the wind carries their limber shoots, till the 
 whole woods are hung with their garlanding. This vegetable cordage is sometimes 
 so closely interwoven that it has the appearance of network, which neither birds 
 nor beasts can easily pass through. Some of the stems are as thick as a man's 
 arm. . They are round or square, and sometimes triangular, and eveu pentangular. 
 They grow in knots and screws, and, indeed, in every possible contortion to which 
 they may be bent. To break them is impossible. Sometimes they kill the tree 
 which supports them, and occasionally remain standing erect, like a twisted column, 
 after the trunk which they have strangled has mouldered within their involutions. 
 Monkeys delight to play their gambols upon this wild rigging ; but they are now 
 scarce in the neighborhood of Para. Occasionally their chatter is heard at a dis- 
 tance, mingled with the shrill cries of birds ; but generally a deep stillness prevails, 
 adding grandeur to the native majesty of these forests. 
 
 ********** 
 
 "On our route to Maguary, I was surprised to see lands which ten or twelve 
 years ago had been planted with sugarcane now entirely overgrown with trees of 
 no insignificant dimensions. Only a few acres immediately around the engenho had 
 been kept free from these encroachments. Here was located the first mill for 
 cleaning rice ever built in the vicinity of Pard. It was established by North 
 American enterprise. A small water-power existed on the site ; but, after the mills 
 were constructed, it was found that this power was insufficient in the dry season : 
 consequently, a steam-engine of sixteen horse-power was imported from the United 
 States, and has been made to do good service. The steam-power was kept in action 
 constantly, and, at proper seasons, the water-power also. Both were inadequate 
 to the amount of business that offered. Several American mechanics were em- 
 ployed at this establishment, which, small as it is, compares favorably with any 
 mechanical establishment in the whole country. A stream connects this engenho 
 with the great river, and thus furnishes cheap conveyance for cargoes to and 
 from the city." 
 
 My colleague also had some experience at Pani not quite so 
 
 agreeable as riding through Amazonian forests : — 
 
 "Soon after my arrival, in company of the United States Consul, I waited on 
 Senhor Franco, the president of the province, to whom I bore a letter of commenda- 
 tion. This individual had formerly been clerk in one of the English mercantile 
 houses in Pard, and was subsequently educated as a beneficiary of the province, 
 of which he had now become the chief magistrate. He i*eceived us with civility, 
 and in person conducted us through the palace. I found that building one of the 
 best of the kind in the Empire. It was built, together with the cathedral and some 
 of the churches, in the days of that talented but ambitious prime minister of Por- 
 tugal, the Marquis of Pombal, who 'cherished the splendid idea of having the throne 
 of Portugal and all her dominions transferred from the banks of the Tagus to those 
 of the Amazon. This circumstance accounts for the ample size and magnificent 
 structure of these buildings in a town of moderate extent. 
 
The "Pastoral" of the Bishop. 561 
 
 "At a proper time I waited on the juiz de direito, — the chief officer of the police, 
 — to exhibit my passport and obtain a license of residence in the very loyal and 
 heroic city of Par4 and the province of which it was the capital. No embarrass- 
 ments were put in my way, and no detention occurred. I obtained the requisite 
 license, and kept it until I had occasion to obtain a new passport on my departui-e. 
 Nevertheless, it appeared at one period that my unmolested residence in the city 
 ■was very much in jeopardy. 
 
 "The old Bishop of Para seemed to have caught the contagion of alarm from his 
 colleague in Maranham ; and both these prelates — yielding more than their sober 
 judgment should have allowed them to certain unfounded and malicious repre- 
 sentations sent them from some quarter — wrote to Senhor Franco concerning me 
 as a very dangerous person, who ought not to be suffered to laud in the province. 
 The president probably satisfied himself on that point during my visit to him ; and 
 although he owed his political elevation very much to his ecclesiastical patrons, yet 
 he managed to satisfy their apprehensions by a very short and formal correspond- 
 ence with the American Consul. No person interfered with me or any of uiy pur- 
 suits from first to last." 
 
 The see of Para is certainly still very much endangered by the 
 Bible, if we may judge from the "pastoral" issued in the Diario do 
 Commercio (of the 8th of April, 1857) by Dom Jose Affonso de Moraes 
 Torres, "by the grace of God and of the Holy Apostolical See, 
 Bishop of Griio Para." The good bishop seems to be terribly' exer- 
 cised by what he terms uma Sociedade Biblica ultimamente creada 
 com noma de AlUanga Christa, (a Bible. Society lately created 
 under the name of the Christian Alliance.) He saj^s that its 
 emissaries circulate books, one of which — a catechism — he has 
 read, and that in it he "encounters a doctrine entirely opposed to 
 the belief of the Church of Jesus Christ." ,That which particularly 
 stirs up his ire is that the little book teaches that the worship of 
 images is idolatry. He then insists that such worship is altogether 
 right, only that the internal operation of the mind is not exactly 
 the same as when worshipping God. He not only hurls his invec- 
 tives at the little book and at heretics, but proves from Scripture 
 that we can be doing God's service in adoring his creatures. He 
 adduces, with decided emphasis, that Abraham worshipped the 
 angels and adored the sons of Heth (!) \_adorou os filhos de Heth, 
 Gen. xxiii. 7.] 
 
 The true head of offence in the little book is that it contains 
 unmutilated the Ten Commandments. I have in my possession the 
 Ten Commandments as they are printed in all the books of religious 
 instruction in Portugal and in some parts of Brazil, and the second 
 commandment is entirely omitted ; and, in order to make up the 
 
 36 
 
562 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 Decalogue, the tenth commandment is thus divided. "Thou shalt 
 not covet thy neighbor's house" figures as the ninth, and "Thou 
 shalt not covet thj' neighbor's wife," &c. &c., "nor any thing that, 
 is thy neighbor's," is the tenth. 
 
 The state of religion at Para is by no means flattering, and the 
 heart is as far from being reached by empty forms and gorgeous 
 pageants on the Amazon as it is on the Tiber or the Danube. The 
 grand annual festival of Nazare always attracts from the city an 
 immense crowd, who go not for religious edification, but for the. 
 nine days' feasting, dancing, fireworks, and gaming. 
 
 rJeneral reflections upon the character and tendency of such a 
 scene of festivities — so absorbing to a whole community and so 
 long continued — seem unnecessary. If it had no religious preten- 
 sions it would be less exceptionable; but for a people to be made 
 to think themselves doing God's service while mingling in such 
 amusements and follies is painfull}^ lamentable. 
 
 Note for 1SG6. — The city of Pani Las returned to its former size, the population 
 now being as great (if not greater) as it was before the disastrous days of 1835- 
 38. In 18G2 the junior author could see but few traces of the rebellion in the 
 condition of the buildings, and, though the elderly people had ineffaceable recol- 
 lections of the revolt and scenes of bloodshed, the great majority of the popula- 
 tion have grown up without sad souvenirs. Many improvements have taken place. 
 Some of the most important in a material point of view are those which have 
 been brought about by Sr. Pimento Bueno, the gerente of the Amazonian Naviga- 
 tion Company. The houses of James Bishop & Co. (J. C. Bond), H. K. Corning & Co. 
 (Mr. Moran), and Burdett & Everett (Mr. Pond), are energetic representatives of 
 American interests at Pard. President Brusque, who was President of the province 
 of Paril in 1861, '62, and '63, took the deepest interest in publishing the material re- 
 sources of the province of Para, and his Relalorios of 1862-63 are full of the most 
 valuable information. The latest and most reliable English book on the Amazon 
 is the " Naturalist on the Amazon," by Henry Bates, Esq., London, 1863. This 
 is a most charming and valuable work. Mr. B. passed nearly ten years in that 
 equatorial region, and has given the world many important facts concerning the 
 great valley, aside from information in regard to its natural history. Only one 
 drawback to many is to be found, in his "Darwinian" views; but they are "put" 
 Bo modestly, and his investigations are so much better than his theory, that one 
 becomes only interested in the great theme of his book, "the King of Waters." 
 
CHAPTEE XXVII. 
 
 AMAZONAS ITS DISCOVEHT EL DORADO — GONCALO PIZABBO HIS EXPEDITION 
 
 CRUELTIES SUFFERINGS DESERTION OF OBELLANA HIS DESCENT OF THE 
 
 RIVER FABLE OF THE AMAZONS FATE OF THE ADVENTURER NAME OF THE 
 
 RIVER — 'SETTLEMENT OF THE COUNTRY SUCCESSIVE EXPEDITIONS UP AND DOWN 
 
 THE AMAZON SUFFERINGS OF MADAME GODIN PRESENT STATE — VICTORIA 
 
 REGIA STEAM-NAVIGATION EFFECTS OF HERNDON AND GIBBON'S REPORT 
 
 PERUVIAN STEAMERS THE FUTURE PROSPECTS OF THE AMAZON. 
 
 AiMAZONAS (or Alto Amazonas) is the most northern province of 
 Brazil. My colleague thus writes in regard to the history of this 
 vast and almost-unknown division of the Empire: — 
 
 "No portion of the earth involves a greater degree of physical interest. Its 
 central position upon the equator, its vast extent, its unlimited resources, its mam- 
 moth rivers, and the romance that still lingers in its name and history, are all 
 peculiar. Three hundred years have elapsed since this region was discovered; but 
 down to the present day two-thirds of it remains uncivilized and almost unex- 
 plored. 
 
 "Indeed, few persons, save the Indians, and the slave-huuters who once pursued 
 them, have even penetrated its remote sections, or seen any parts of it save the 
 banks of navigable rivers. The circumstances of its discovery will ever be con- 
 sidered remarkable. It was about the middle of the sixteenth century when the 
 fixble of El Dorado filled the public mind of Europe. The existence of a New 
 World was then fully demonstrated, and the leaven of desire for its undeveloped 
 treasures had spread from court to camp, from princes to beggars, until the whole 
 mass of society was in a ferment. Avarice, personified under the garb of adven- 
 ture, bestrode the ocean. Scarcely did her footsteps touch the shores of the New 
 AVorld, ere they were bathed in blood. She commenced her work of desolation 
 in the fair islands of the Caribbean. She caused the din of arms to resound in 
 the primeval forests and aboriginal cities of the continent. She scaled the 
 Cordilleras, and laid waste savannahs upon both the Atlantic and the Pacific 
 shores. 
 
 "Among the bloodthirsty and cruel men who stood forth as leaders in the work 
 of conquest and plunder, Gon$alo Pizarro, the brother and associate of the con- 
 queror of Peru, was second to few, if any. His talents may have been less, but 
 his daring and cruelty were greater. In 1.541, this adventurer set out from Quito, 
 with an army of three hundred soldiers, and four thousand Indians to serve them 
 as bearers of burdens, with the design of discovering the land of gold. This waf 
 
 563 
 
564 Brazil and the Brazilian-s. 
 
 an imaginary kingdom, shaped out of tlie half-comprehended tales of the persecuted 
 Indians and exaggerated by the most extravagant fancies. 
 
 " This fabulous kingdom received a name IVom the fashion of its monarch, who 
 was said, in order to wear a more magnificent attire than any other potentate in 
 the world, to put on a daily coating of gold-dust. His body was anointed every 
 morning with a costly and fragrant gum, to which the gold-dust adhered when 
 blown over him by a tube. In this barbaric attire the Spaniards denominated him 
 El Dorado, — the Gilded King. No fictions concerning this monarch or his kingdom 
 were too extravagant for credence. He was generally located in the grand city of 
 Manoa, in which no fewer than three thousand workmen were employed in the sil- 
 versmiths' street. The columns of his palace were described as of porphyry and 
 alabaster : the throne was ivory, and the steps leading to it were of gold. Others 
 built the palace of white stone, and ornamented it with golden suns and moons of 
 silver, while living lions, fastened by chains of gold, guarded its entrance. With 
 day-dreams like these dancing before the minds of commanders and soldiers, the 
 army of Pizarro set out, cherishing the highest anticipations. 
 
 " In proceeding eastward from Quito, they were obliged to cut their way through 
 forests, to climb mountains, and to contend with hostile tribes of Indians. Every 
 tribe with which they met was interrogated about El Dorado, and when unable to 
 give any intelligence of it they were put to torture : some were even burned alive, 
 and others were torn to pieces by bloodhounds, which the Spaniards had trained to 
 feed on human flesh. 
 
 "The eflTects of this dreadful cruelty returned upon the heads of its perpetrators 
 with a terrible vengeance. As the tidings of their approach spread from tribe to 
 tribe, the poor natives learned to flatter their hopes and send them along. The 
 rains came on, and, lasting for months, rotted the garments from the bodies of the 
 soldiers, who could neither make nor find a shelter. At length their provisions 
 were exhausted, and they began to feed upon their dogs. The sick multiplied, so 
 that they were obliged to build a brigantine in which to carry them. This was a 
 herculean task for soldiers to perform, especially without the requisite implements. 
 Before it was accomplished they had to slaughter their horses for food. Their 
 troubles continued and even increased : still, with death staring them in the face, 
 Pizarro continued to seize prisoners, and put them in irons when he supposed they 
 desired to escape. When they at length stood upon the banks of the river Napo, 
 not less than one thousand of the Peruvians had perished. 
 
 " The commander now heard of a larger river into which this emptied, and was 
 told that the country surrounding the junction was fertile and abounding in pro- 
 visions. He therefore determined to despatch the vessel with fifty men to procure 
 supplies for the rest. Francisco de Orellana, a knight of Truxiilo, was put in com- 
 mand of this expedition. The stream carried them rapidly downward through an 
 uninhabited and desert country. When they had descended about three hundred 
 miles, the question was started whether they should not abandon the idea of return- 
 ing. They had not found food sufficient for themselves ; and how could they succor 
 the army ? Besides, how could they ascend against the current in their enfeebled 
 state? It would only be to perish with the rest. They might as well continue 
 their descent, for ' rivers to the ocean run,' and there was some chance that they 
 might in this way not only save their lives but also immortalize their names by new 
 discoveries. Orellana urged these considerations with so much plausibility, that 
 all consented save two, — a Dominican friar and a young knight of Badajoz, who con- 
 tended against the plan as treacherous and cruel. Orellana disposed of this objec- 
 
 I 
 
The Expedition of Orellana. 565 
 
 tion by setting the knight on shore, to perish or return to the army as he best could. 
 The friar became an easy convert to the new scheme, and thenceforward took a pro- 
 minent part in it. Orellana renounced the commission he had received from 
 Pizarro, and received an election from his men as their commander, so that he might 
 make discoveries in his own name, and not under delegated authority in the name 
 of another. 
 
 "It was on the last day of December, 1541, that this adventurous voyage was 
 commenced, after mass had been said by the Dominican. Their prospects were 
 gloomy enough. Their stock of provisions was wholly exhausted, and they were 
 forced to boil the soles of their shoes and their leathern girdles, in hope of deriving 
 nourishment from them. 
 
 "It also became necessary to build a better vessel. This being accomplished 
 with great difficulty and delay, they resumed their voyage. Sometimes they met 
 with a kind reception from the Indians, but more generally they had to fight their 
 way with great losses and imminent danger of complete destruction. 
 
 " It was in the month of June that, during a battle with a hostile tribe, they dis- 
 covered what they reported to be Amazons. Friar Gaspar, the Dominican, affirms 
 that ten or twelve of these women fought at the head of the tribe which was subject 
 to their authority. He described them as very tall and large-limbed, having a white 
 complexion, and long hair plaited and banded around their head. Their only article 
 of dress was a cincture, but they were armed with bows and arrows. The men 
 fought desperately, because, if they deserted, they would be beaten to death by 
 these female tyrants ; but, when the Spaniards had slain some seven or eight of the 
 latter, the Indians fled. These stories were generally believed to have been delibe- 
 rate falsehoods fabricated with the idea of giving consequence to the voyage. The 
 existence, however, of a powerful tribe of Amazons in that portion of South Ame- 
 rica was a subject of deliberate inquiry and grave discussion for at least two cen- 
 turies. Condamine and others favored the opinion that there had been such a 
 people, of which some remnants remained till about the time of Orellana, soon afterr 
 which they became extinct by amalgamation with surrounding tribes. The Spanish 
 historian Herrera has given detailed accounts of the adventures of Orellana, com- 
 piled from his own statements, endorsed by his veracious chronicler. Friar Gaspar. 
 They contain, however, but little authentic information. But, strange as it may 
 seem, modern investigation (as will be seen hereafter) has proved that the veracious 
 frade apparently spoke the truth. 
 
 " In the course of seven months they reached the ocean. After some repairs 
 made upon their vessels, they sailed out of the great river during the month of 
 August, and on the 11th of September they made the island of Cubagua. Orellana 
 proceeded thence to Spain, to give an account of his discoveries in person. 
 
 "The excuse he presented for deserting Pizarro was accepted, and, on solicita- 
 tion, he received a grant of the conquest of the regions he had discovered. He 
 had but little difficulty in raising funds or enlisting adventurers for his expedition. 
 It, however, proved disastrous. His fleet arrived out in 1544, but, amid the labyrinth 
 of channels at the mouth of the river, it was impossible to find the main branch. 
 After a month or two spent in beating about, without being able to ascend the river 
 or to accomplish any important object, Orellana succumbed to his misfortunes, and, 
 like many of his men, sickened and died. He was the first to descend the embouch- 
 ment of the Amazon ; but Pinzon is said to have discovered the mighty current in 1500. 
 
 " Mr. Southey had so much respect for his memory, that he made an effort in his 
 histc ry to restore the name of Orellana to the great river. He discarded Maranon, 
 
566 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 as having too much resemblance to Maranham,* and Amazon, as being founded 
 upon fiction and at the same time inconvenient. Accordingly, in his map, and in 
 all his references to the great river, he denominates it Orellana. 
 
 " This decision of the poet-laureate of Great Britain has not proved authoritative 
 in Brazil. Amazonas is the universal appellation of the great river among those 
 who float upon its waters and who live upon its banks, and is now given to the new 
 province whose capital is the Barra do Rio Negro. 
 
 " Para, the aboriginal name of this river, was more appropriate than any other. 
 It signifies 'the father of waters.' The term ' Parii River' designates the soutliern, 
 in opposition to the northern, principal mouth of the Amazon, and also the province 
 through which the mighty river finds the ocean." 
 
 The name Amazonas has been stated by some to be derived from 
 the Indian word A?nassona, — a term, it is pretended, applied to the 
 wonderful phenomenon of a high tide of these rivers two days 
 before and two daj-s after full-moon, which extends to the very 
 confluence of the Madeira. As this tide is very destructive to 
 small craft, the natives called it Amassona, ("boat-breaker.") This 
 story, it seems to me, has no foundation whatever. I do not believe 
 Amassona to be an aboriginal term ; for the Portuguese substantive 
 amds means "a heap," and the simple verb amassar means "to 
 knead," "to bruise," &c.; while the retlex verb ainassar-se means 
 " to heap up itself" 
 
 The origin of the name and the mystery concerning the female 
 warriors, I think, has been solved, within the last few years, by the 
 intrepid Mr. Wallace, who left the beaten track, — the bod of the 
 great river, — and in the remotest haunts of the wild man, by his 
 persevering patience and his knowledge of the Lingoa Qeral, has 
 given much information to the world concerning the little-known 
 interior. 
 
 I believe it will now be found that, although the early monkish 
 chroniclers of the New World often used their imaginations instead 
 of being content with facts, they were in this case not so cul])able 
 as man}^ have supposed. They really believed that they had fought 
 with female warriors, and certainly appearances were in favor of 
 their truthfulness. Mr. Wallace, I think, conclusively shows that 
 Friar Gaspar and his companions saw Indian male warriors who 
 were attired in habiliments such as Europeans would attribute 
 
 * Both words have evidently a common origin, being derived from the Portuguese 
 mare, "the sea," and nao, "not," — not. the sea, as a great river near its mouth 
 appears to be. 
 
Origin of the Name Eio Amazonas. 567 
 
 to woman. Mr. Wallace visited numerous tribes on the upper 
 affluents of the Amazon, and, in speaking of their language, habits 
 of dress, and other characteristics, he says, — 
 
 " The use of ornaments and trinkets of various kinds is almost confined to the 
 men. The women wear a bracelet on the wrists, but no necklace, or any comb in 
 the hair : they have a garter below the knee, worn tight from infancy, for the pur- 
 pose of swelling out the calf, which they consider a great beauty. While dancing 
 in their festivals, the women wear a small tanga, or apron, made of beads prettily 
 arranged : it is never worn at any other time, and immediately the dance is over 
 it is taken off. 
 
 "The men, on the other hand, have the hair carefully parted and combed on 
 each side and tied in a queue behind. In the young men it hangs in long locks 
 down their necks, and, with the comb, which is invariably carried stuck on the top 
 of the head, gives to them a most feminine appearance : this is increased by the 
 large necklaces and bracelets of beads and the careful extirpation of every symptom 
 of beard. Taking these circumstances into consideration, I am strongly of opinion 
 that the story of the Amazons has arisen from these feminine-looking warriors en- 
 countered by the early voyagers. I am inclined to this belief from the effect they 
 first produced on myself, when it was only by close examination that I found they 
 were men ; and, were the front parts of their bodies and their breasts covered with 
 shields such as they always use, I am convinced any person seeing them for the 
 first time would conclude they were women. We have only, therefore, to suppose 
 that tribes having similar customs to those now existing on the river Uaupes in- 
 habited the regions where the Amazons were reported to have been seen, and we 
 have a rational explanation of what has so much puzzled all geographers. The 
 only objection to this explanation is, that traditions are said to exist among the 
 natives, of ' a nation of women without husbands.' Of this tradition I was myself 
 unable to obtain any trace, and I can easily imagine it entirely to have arisen from 
 the suggestions and inquiries of Europeans themselves. When the story of the 
 Amazons was first made known, it became, of course, a point with all future tra- 
 vellers to verify it, or, if possible, to get a glimpse of these warlike ladies. The 
 Indians must no doubt have been overwhelmed with questions and suggestions 
 about them, and they, thinking that the white men must know best, would transmit 
 to their descendants and families the idea that such a nation did exist in some dis- 
 tant part of the country. Succeeding travellers, finding traces of this idea among 
 the Indians, would take it as a proof of the existence of the Amazons, instead of 
 being merely the effect of a mistake at first, which had been unknowingly spread 
 by preceding travellers seeking to obtain some information on the subject. 
 
 " In my communications and inquiries among the Indians on various matters, I 
 have always found the greatest caution necessary to prevent one's arriving at wrong 
 conclusions. They are always apt to affirm that which they see you wish to be- 
 lieve, and, when they do not at all comprehend your question, will unhesitatingly 
 answer, 'Yes.' " 
 
 Having thus explained the origin of the word Amazonas, we will 
 
 a<iain turn to the historic sketch of Dr. Kidder : — 
 
 "About seventy years after the events (the voyage of Orellana) above narrated, 
 the Portuguese began to settle in Pari, advancing from Maranham. In 1616, Fran- 
 cisco Cadeira, the first chief-captain, laid the foundations of the present city of Par^ 
 
568 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 under the protection of Nossa Senhora de Belem. In 1637, another party descended 
 the Amazon from Quito. It was composed of two Franciscan friars and six sol- 
 diers, who had been sent on a mission to the Indians upon the frontiers of Peru. 
 The mission proved unsuccessful. Some of the missionaries grew weary and re- 
 turned ; othei'S persisted until the savages attacked and murdered the commander 
 of their escort of soldiers, when all dispersed. Those who were disheartened at the 
 prospect of the dreadful journey back to Quito committed themselves to the waters, 
 as Orellana had done nearly a century before. They reached Belem in safety, but 
 so stupefied with fear as to be unable tg give any satisfactory account of what they 
 had seen. It was enough for them to have escaped from the horrid cannibals 
 through whose midst they had passed. 
 
 "In the same year, the first expedition for the ascent of the Amazon was 
 .organized. It was commanded by Pedi'o Teixeira, and was composed of seventy 
 soldiers, twelve hundred native rowers and bowmen, besides females and slaves, 
 who increased the number to about two thousand. They embarked in forty-five 
 canoes. The strength of the opposing current and the difficulty of finding their 
 coui'se amid the labyrinthian channels of the river rendered their enterprise one 
 of unparalleled toil. Many of the Indians deserted, and nothing but unwearied 
 perseverance and great tact enabled Teixeii-a to keep the rest. After a voyage of 
 eight months, he reached the extent of navigation. Leaving most of his men with 
 his canoes at this place, he continued his journey overland to Quito, where he was 
 received with distinguished honors. He was accompanied on his return by several 
 friars, whose business it was to record the incidents and observations of the voyage. 
 A considerable amount of authentic information was thus collected and published 
 to the world. The party reached Belem in December, 1639, amid great rejoicings. 
 After this, voyages upon the Amazon became more common. 
 
 "In 1745, M. La Condamine, a French academician, descended from Quito, and 
 constructed a map of the river, based upon a series of astronomical observations. 
 His memoir, read before the Royal Academy on his return, remains to this day a 
 very interesting work. In modern times, the most celebrated voyages down the 
 Amazon have been described at length by those who accomplished them, — e.g. Spix 
 and Von Martins, Lister Mawe, Lieutenants Smyth, Herudon and Gibbon, and 
 Mr. Wallace. 
 
 "The expeditions to which I have alluded have generally been prosperous, and 
 not attended with any peculiar misfortunes. Not so with every voyage that has 
 been undertaken upon these interminable waters. The sutf jrings of Madame Godia 
 des Odonnais have hardly a parallel on record. The husband of this lady was an 
 astronomer associated with M. Conlamine. He had taken his family with him to 
 reside in Quito, but, baing ordered to Cayenne, was obliged to leave them behind. 
 Circumstances transpired to prevent his returning for a period of sixteen years, and 
 when finally he made the attempt to <»,scend the Amazon he was taken sick and 
 could not proceed. All the messages that he attempted to send his absent wife 
 failed of their destination. In the mean time a rumor reached her that an expedi- 
 tion had been despatched to meet her at some of the missions on the Upper Amazon. 
 She immediately resolved to set out on the perilous journey. She was accompanied 
 by her family, including three females, two children, and two or three men, one of 
 whom was her brother. They surmounted the Andes and passed down the tributary 
 streams of the Amazon without serious diffijulties; but the farther they entered 
 into the measureless solitudes that lay before them, the more their troubles in- 
 creased. The missions were found in a state of desolation under the ravages of 
 
T]iE Heroism of Madame Godin. 
 
 5G9 
 
 the smallpox. The vilkge where they expected to find Indians to conduct thera 
 down the river had but two inhabitants surviving : these poor creatures could not 
 aid them, and they were left without guides or canoe-men. Ignorant of navigation, 
 and unaccustomed to either toil or danger, their misery was now beyond descrip- 
 tion. Their canoe, in drifting on the current, filled with water, and they barely 
 escaped with life and a few provisions. They managed to construct a raft ; but this 
 was soon torn to pieces upon a snag. The forlorn company again escape to the 
 shore, and, as their only alternative, attempt to make their way on foot. Without 
 map or compass, they know not whither they go. In attempting to follow the 
 windings of the stream they become bewildered, and finally plunge into the depths 
 of the forest. Wild fruits and succulent plants now furnish them their only food. 
 Weakened by hunger, they soon fall victims to disease. 
 
 "In a few days Madame Godin, the sole survivor, stood surrounded by eight 
 dead bodies! Imagine the horror that overwhelmed her as she saw one after 
 another of her friends and family in the agonies of death ! In the desperation of 
 the hour she attempted to bury them, but found it impossible. After two days 
 spent in mourning over the dead, she roused up with a determination to make 
 another effort to seek her long-lost husband. She was now nearly three thousand 
 miles from the ocean, without food, and with her delicate feet lacerated by thorns. 
 Taking the shoes of one of the dead men, she started upon her dreary way. What 
 phantoms now tortui'e her imagination and people the wilderness with frightful 
 monsters ! But she wanders on. Days of wretchedness and nights of horror 
 ensue. At length, on the ninth day, she heard the noise of a canoe, and, running 
 to the river-side, she was taken up by a party of Indians. Suftice it to say that 
 they conducted her to one of the missions, from which, after long delays and great 
 exposure, she was finally conveyed down the Amazon and restored to her husband 
 after nineteen years' separation. They returned to France together and spent the 
 remnant of their days in retirement ; but Madame G. never fully recovered from 
 the eflFects of her fright and sufferings. 
 
 "Even at this day, the traveller upon the waters of the Amazon, above Par&, 
 finds himself in a wild and uncultivated region. He will scarcely see fifty houses 
 in three hundred miles. There are but few settlements directly on the river. Most of 
 the villages are on the tributary streams and the Iguaripes, or bayous. The houses 
 universally have mud floors and thatched roofs ; and, though the population is in- 
 creasing, I fear that for a long time to come 
 the great majority of the inhabitants in 
 the immediate vicinity of the Lower Ama- 
 zon will be such as are depicted in the 
 engraving. 
 
 "Notwithstanding all the beautiful 
 theories respecting steam-navigation on 
 the waters of the Amazon and its tribu- 
 taries, nothing was accomplished deserv- 
 ing the name until 1853. As far back 
 as the year 1827, an association, called 
 the South American Steamboat Com- 
 pany, was organized in New York, with 
 the express design of promoting that 
 
 navigation. It owed its origin to the suggestion of the Brazilian Government 
 through its charge d'affaires, Mr. Rebello, resident in the United States, who 
 
570 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 stipulated decided encouragements, and the grant of special privileges on the part 
 of His Majesty Dom Pedro I. A steamboat was fitted out and sent to Par4, and 
 other heavy expenses were incurred by the company ; but, through a lacK of co- 
 operation on the part of Brazil, the whole enterprise proved a failure. Claims for 
 indemnification to a large amount were for a long time pending before the Brazilian 
 Government. 
 
 "After 1838, small Government steamers were from time to time sent up the 
 Amazon as far as the River Negro. Such voyages were repeated at intervals, and 
 sufficed for steam-navigation on the Amazon until 1853. The globe does not else- 
 where present such a splendid theatre for steam-enterprise. Not only is the Amazon 
 navigable for more than three thousand miles, but the Tocantins, the Chingd, the 
 Tapajos, the Madeira, the Negro, and other affluents, are unitedly navigable several 
 thousand more. All these rivers flow through the richest soil and the most luxu- 
 rious vegetation in the world." 
 
 Near their margin is found the giant of Flora's kingdom^ whose 
 discovery a few years since is as notable a fact to the naturalist 
 world as the regular opening of steam-navigation upon the Amazon 
 is to the commercial world. 
 
 Of all the Nj-mphseaceae, the largest, the richest, and the most 
 beautiful is the marvellous plant which has been dedicated to the 
 Queen of England, and which bears the name of Victoria Regia. 
 It inhabits the tranquil waters of the shallow lakes formed by the 
 widening of the Amazon and its affluents. Its-leaves measure from 
 fifteen to eighteen feet in circumference. Their upper part is of 
 a dark, glossy green; the under portion is of a crimson red, fur- 
 nished with large, salient veins, which are cellular and full of air, 
 and have the stem covered with elastic prickles. The flowers lift 
 themselves about six inches above the water, and when fidl blown 
 have a circumference of from three to four feet. The petals unfold 
 toward evening : their color, at first of the purest white, passes, in 
 twenty -four hours, through successive hues from a tender rose-tinge 
 to a bright red. During the first day of their bloom they exhale a 
 delightful fragrance, and at the end of the third day the flower fades 
 away and replunges beneath the waters, there to ripen its seeds. 
 When matured, these fj'uit-seeds, rich in fecula, are gathered 
 by the natives, who roast them, and relish them thus prepared. 
 
 The description of this magnificent plant explains the admiration 
 experienced by naturalists when beholding it for the first time. The 
 celebrated Haenke was travelling in a pirogue on the Rio Mamore, 
 in company with Father Lacueva, a Spanish missionary, when ho 
 discovered, in the still waters close to the shore, this gigantic 
 
The Victoria Eegia. 
 
 571 
 
 Nymphseacese. At the sight the botanist fell upon his knees, and — • 
 as a not very pious French writer very Frenchily records — expressed 
 his religious and scientific enthusiasm by impassioned exclama- 
 tions and outbursts of adoration to the Creator, — '' an improvised 
 Te Deum which must have deeply impressed the old missionary." 
 
 THE VICTORIA REGIA AND THE BOAT-BILL. 
 
 In 1845, an English traveller, Mr. Bridges, as he was following 
 the wooded banks of the Yacouraa, one of the tributaries of the 
 Mamore, Tarae to a lake hidden in the forest, and found upon it a 
 colony of Victoria Recjias. Carried away by his admiration, he was 
 about to plunge into the water for the purpose of gathering some 
 of the flowers, when the Indians who accompanied him pointed to 
 the oavage alligators lazily reposing upon the surface. This in- 
 formation made him cautious; but, without abating his ardor, he 
 ran to the city of Santa Anna, and soon obtained a canoe, which 
 was launched upon the lake which contained the objects of his 
 ambition. The leaves were so enormous that he could jDlace but 
 
572 
 
 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 two of them on the canoe, and he was obliged to make severa. 
 trips to complete his harvest. 
 
 Mr. Bridges soon arrived in England with the seeds, which he 
 had sown in moist clay. Two of these germinated in the aquarium 
 of the hothouse at Kew. One was sent to the large hothouses of 
 Chats worth : a basin was prepared to receive it, the temperature 
 was raised, and the plant was placed in its new resting-place on 
 the 10th of August, 1849. Toward the end of September it was 
 necessary to enlarge the basin and to double its size, in order to 
 give space to the leaves, Avhich developed with great rapidity. 
 So large did they become that one of them supported the weight 
 of a little girl in an upright position. 
 
 The first bud opened on the beginning of November. The flower 
 in bloom was offered by Mr. Paxton (the celebrated designer of the 
 London Crystal Palace) to his monarch, and the great personages 
 of England hastened to Windsor Castle to admire the beautiful 
 homonym of their gracious sovereign. 
 
 The name given to this maiwellous plant by Lindley was happily 
 chosen; but the natives of the Amazon call it " Uape Jaj)ona," — the 
 Jacana's oven, — from the fact that the jacana is often seen upon it. 
 
 The jacana is a singular 
 spur-winged bird, twice 
 the size of a woodcock, 
 provided with exceedingly 
 long and slender toes (from 
 which the French term it 
 the surgeon-bird) which 
 enable it to glide over 
 various water-plants. It 
 inhabits the marshes, and 
 woods near the water, and 
 many a time in the in- 
 terior I have seen it steal- 
 ing over the lilj^-leaves on 
 the margin of rivers. 
 Eeturning from this di- 
 gression to the capabilities of the great river for steam-navigation, 
 we remark that the extent of the Amazon and its affluents is 
 
 THE JACANA. 
 
The "King of Waters." 573 
 
 immense. From four degrees north latitude to twenty degrees 
 Bouth, every stream that flows down the eastern slope of the Andes 
 is a tributaiy of the Amazon. This is as though all the rivers 
 from St. Petersburg to Madrid united their waters in one mighty 
 flood. 
 
 Geographers have never fully agreed which of the upper tribu- 
 taries desei-ves to be called the main stream of the Amazon; but 
 the most recent explorers are decided in considering the Tangu- 
 ragua or Upper Maraiion as its principal source. This rises in a 
 lake — Lauricocha — situated almost in the region of perpetual 
 snow. Nearly all the branches of the Amazon are navigable to a 
 great distance from their junction with the main trunk, and, col- 
 lecting the whole, afford an extent of water-communication un- 
 paralleled in any other part of the glo.be. There is a total of ten 
 thousand miles of steam-navigation below all falls; and, these 
 obstructions once passed, steamers could be run for four thousand 
 miles. The most navigable of all the branches is the Puriis. 
 
 A volume of fresh water, constantly replenished by copious rains, 
 pours forth with such impetus as to force itself — an unmixed cur- 
 rent — into, the ocean to the distance of eighty leagues. While the 
 principal branch of the Ganges discharges 80,000 cubic feet of water 
 per second, and the large Brahmapootra 176,200 cubic feet every 
 sixtieth part of a minute, the Amazon sends through the narrows 
 at Obidos 550,000 cubic feet per second. ( Von Martius.) 
 
 This "king of waters" is remarkable for its wide-spreading 
 tributaries. On the north side, the first from the west, below the 
 I'apids of Manseriche, is the Morona, and then come in succession 
 the Pasta(;a, Tigre, Xapo, Iga, Japura, Eio Negro, and many 
 streams of lesser note. From the south it receives — proceeding 
 from west to east — the Huallaga, Ucayali, Yavari or Javary, 
 Huta, Hyuruay, Teffe, Coary, Puri'is, Madeira, Tapajos, Chingii, 
 and Tocantins. Most of these affluents discharge their waters 
 into the Amazon by more than one mouth, Avhich frequently are 
 widely apai't. Thus, the two most distant of the four mouths 
 of the Japura are more than two hundred miles asunder, and the 
 outer embouchures of the Purus are about one hundred miles from 
 each other. In the upper portion of its course the Amazon divides 
 Equador from Peru, between which its width varies from half a 
 
574 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 mile to a mile; beyond the limits of Equador it increases to twt» 
 miles; and below the Madeira — its most considerable tributary, 
 having a course little less tlian two thousand miles in length — it is 
 nearly three miles. Between Faro and Obidos — to which place 
 the tide reaches — it decreases to less than a mile ; but below Obidos 
 't widens again, and, after the junction of the Tapajos, it is nearly 
 Beven miles across. The Avidth of the channel of Braganza do 
 Norte — the northern mouth of this vast river — is thirty miles 
 opposite the island of Marajo and fiftj' at its embouchure; that 
 of the Tangipura Channel is eighteen miles at the junction of the 
 Tocantins and thirty at its mouth. 
 
 While the whole area drained by the Mississippi and its branches 
 IS 1,200,000 square miles, the area of the Amazon and its tributaries 
 (not including that of the Tocantins, which is larger than the Ohio 
 Valley) is 2,330,000 square miles. This is more than i» third of all 
 South America, and equal to two-thirds of all Europe. JTlr. Wallace 
 has startled Englishmen with the fact that "all Western Europe 
 could be placed in it without touching its boundaries, and it would 
 even contain the whole of our Indian Empire." 
 
 In 1851-52, Lieutenants (U. S. N.) lierndon and Gibbon de- 
 scended the Amazon, — one by its Peruvian and the other by its 
 Bolivian tributaries. Their interesting reports were published b}' 
 the order of Congress, and are laid before the world. Lieutenant 
 Gibbon passed over the most unknown route, and hence his work 
 possesses more intrinsic interest. Lieutenant Ilerndon's volume 
 not only for the moment awakened the United States and England 
 to the importance of the Amazon, but the fact of his descent of that 
 river and his inferences — many of them totallj'' visionary — aroused 
 the Brazilian Government to the performance of their duty, and in 
 1852-53, Brazil, by treaty with Peru, engaged to run steamers, 
 under the Brazilian flag, from Para, — the contractors to have the 
 monopol}^ of steamboat-navigation on the Amazon for thirty j'cars, 
 with an annual bonus of one hundred thousand dollars for the first 
 fifteen ; the voyage to be performed by two steamers, — one ascend- 
 ing the Amazon from Para, the other descending it from Nauta, 
 and meeting the up-boat at Barra. 
 
 Nauta is in Peru, on the right bank of the Amazon, forty-six 
 leagues below the junction of the Huallaga, and has a population 
 
Amazonian Steameks. 576 
 
 of one thousand. This company, under the leading of that en- 
 terprising Brazilian, the Baron of Maua, immediately sent its 
 first steamer from Para to Nauta. The association, in return for 
 privileges granted, contracted to found numerous colonies in the 
 provinces of Para and Amazonas. ISTearly every month colonists 
 under tbe direction of the Amazon Navigation Company arrive 
 from Portugal and her islands at Para. The colonies at Obidos 
 and at Serpa, and another at the mouth of the Eio Negro, did not 
 prove successful. Although the company engaged to plant colo- 
 nies above the Barra of the Rio Negro, one on the Eio Teffe, (above 
 Y. de Ega,) three on the Madeira, at Crato and Borba, two on the 
 Tapajos,. not far from Santareni, and three on the Tocantins, it is 
 doubtful if the contract be carried out. 
 
 The contract made by the company with the Portuguese emi- 
 grants was this : — 
 
 " They bind themselves to work for the company for two years at a certain com- 
 pensation per diem, and to be housed and fed during that period ; and, at the end 
 of their apprenticeship, each person is entitled to a certain portion of open land in 
 fee-simple, — the heads of families to have a comfortable house on their portion, no 
 matter whether they were married before engaging or during their service." 
 
 I asked Mr. Nesbitt — a practical engineer who was for three 
 years travelling on the Amazon and some of its navigable tri- 
 butaries — his opinion of the steamers employed by the company. 
 His reply (April, 1857) was as follows : — 
 
 "Thus far they have succeeded well. The company have fully complied with 
 their part of the contract both in Brazil and with Peru. There were seven steamers 
 in successful operation in April, 185G, and two new boats expected every week : 
 one of these two was the ' Bay City,' built in New York for the Sacramento and San 
 Francisco trade, but was so badly twisted in trying to double Cape Horn that she 
 put back to Rio de Janeiro for repairs, and was sold for the benefit of the under- 
 writers and purchased for the Amazon Company. The names of the seven steamers 
 that were running are the 'Tapajoz,' 'Rio Negro,' 'Marajo,' 'Monarcha,' 'Cameti,' 
 'Tabatinga,' and 'Solimoes.' The 'Rio Negro' and 'Tapajoz' were the packets from 
 Par4 to the Barra do Rio Negro, — making semi-monthly trips : but, after the 1st 
 of January, 1857, there was to be a weekly packet. The 'Marajo' ran between the 
 Barra and Nauta, in Peru, — making a trip every two months, and, after January, 
 1857, the trips were to be monthly. The ' Monarcha' was running on the Rio 
 Negro, rom the Barra to the mouth of the Rio Branco, and intended to go as far 
 as Barcellos and Moreira — still higher — whenever the water in the Rio Negro would 
 permit, which would be about eight months in the year. The Rio Negro, a few 
 leagues above the Barra, spreads out into a very wide bay of some leagues in 
 breadth, which renders steam navigation more difficult than anywhere else on the 
 lower river, as it becomes shallower on account of the great width ; but above thia 
 
576 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 bay there is no trouble. There are several lakes adjacent to the Rio Negro, where 
 large quantities of fish are caught, salted, and dried for market. There are a 
 great many splendid localities for farming-purposes on the Rio Negro above the 
 Barra. The ' Solimoes' was intended for the Rio Tapajoz. The ' Cainetd' was a 
 regular packet on the Tocantins, between the city of Par4 and the town of Camet4, 
 — making monthly trips. 
 
 "All these steamers had as much business as they could well do, — those for the 
 Barra more than they could do ; hence the necessity for weekly trips. 
 
 " These steamers were fast superseding the square, stem-and-stern, crawling 
 river-canoas ; for as soon as a ti-ader makes one trip in a steamer he begins to set 
 some value upon time, and forsakes his three-month mode of getting up stream 
 for a three or four days' trip. Captain Pimento Bueno, (son of the distinguished 
 Senator,) the energetic and gentlemanly general superintending agent, told me that, 
 with the Government bonus and the merchants' business, the steamers paid exceed- 
 ingly well. They are all good boats, and most of them built of iron, as that mate- 
 rial is decidedly the best, on account of the worms that are so destructive in the 
 Amazon. Every town on the river furnishes wood at a fixed rate. The business 
 of the steamers is constantly on the increase ; and the industrious inhabitants 
 of any of the villages can collect their syringa. Brazil-nuts, sarsaparilla, cacS,o, 
 &c. &c. and send them down to Par4 by the steamer, and, on her return-trip, re- 
 ceive their money. This is creating new artificial wants, and, of course, making 
 the people exercise more industry for the purpose of supplying their newly- 
 awakened demands. 
 
 "These steamers certainly have done wonders in the last four years toward re- 
 volutionizing the whole business of the Amazon Valley; for, even from Moyabamba, 
 Tarapota, and other Peruvian towns among the mountains, they now bring down 
 their products in canoes and on bolsas (rafts) to meet the steamer at Nauta, which 
 they never thought of doing before. Neither are the advantages of steam confined 
 to the business-relations of life ; but there is evidently an increasing desire on the 
 part of the great mass of the people to learn more of the outside barbarians." 
 
 Mr. Nesbitt thus states the effect of the sight of a steamer on 
 
 the remote population of the Upper Amazon : — 
 
 "As we would be passing a sand-bar on the upper rivers in Peru, where a steam 
 boat had never before been heard of. and while all the fishermen and fish-driers 
 would be standing in amazement, gazing at the 'monster of the vasty deep,' — not 
 knowing vphether it was a spirit from the diabo or some new saint sent by the 
 Immaculate Virgin, — I would touch the steam-whistle, which would give such an 
 unearthly screech that men, women, children, dogs, and monkeys would take to 
 their heels and run for dear life, and would never stop to allow me to make 
 the amende honorable." 
 
 I was desirous to obtain from this observant and practical man 
 
 an opinion in regard to the views and theories of Lieutenants 
 
 Maury and Herndon concerning the Amazon. In reply, he made 
 
 the following statement : — 
 
 " I think that Lieutenant Maury's letters are painted rather beyond nature ; but 
 his ideas of the Amazon Valley and its capabilities are certainly, on the whole, 
 nearer the mark than any other writer I have ever read. His theory of climate, and 
 
Herndon's Expedition — Peruvian [Steamers. 577 
 
 his reasons why the Valley of the Amazon is not like the same latitudes in Africa, 
 &c. &c., are assuredly correct, in my humble opinion; for I was forcibly impressed 
 with their correctness while on the spot. The rainy season is not the incessant 
 'pouring down' of Africa, Central America, and the Orinoco-region. It is more 
 of a showery season : it is true sometimes when it rains ^it pours,' but the showers 
 are of short duration comparatively, and they fall at such regular intervals that one 
 can make his calculations for business-engagements almost to a certainty. And you 
 will never have a day without seeing the sun more or less. 
 
 " The dry-season is not feverish and scorching ; for scarcely a week — certainly 
 not a fortnight — passes without one or more good showers. Such a thing as 
 crops suffering for the want of moisture is not known on the Amazon. Although 
 the days may be warm, the nights are always cool and pleasant, with yery 
 heavy dews. 
 
 " Lieutenant Herndon's ideas of the low banks were just such as any person 
 would form who travelled down the river in a canoe, as it is impossible for any one 
 thus situated to form a correct estimate of the country. It would require years^ 
 not a few months — to learn the Valley as it ought to be learned. There is not 
 nearly so much land subject to inundation as Herndon estimated : notwithstanding, 
 there are considerable portions that are overflown at high floods. Herndon's ex- 
 pedition left its work unfinished ; but it was of vast service to the country on the 
 Amazon, both directly and indirectly, — as that expedition, I have not the least doubt, 
 was the lever that moved the Brazilian Government to promote steam-navigation on 
 the Amazon. So that was the beginning; 'but the end is not yet.' " 
 
 In regard to the steamers ordered by Peru — which made the 
 contract with Dr. Whittemore, formerly of Lima — to be built at 
 New York and transported in pieces to Para, to be run in connec- 
 tion with the steamers of the Brazilian and Amazon Navigation 
 Company, Mr. Nesbitt gives me the following information: — 
 
 " I went out with the steamers to the Amazon, was with them while they were 
 being reconstructed in Par4, and, after they were ready to start up the river, I took 
 command of one of them. Dr. Whittemore, our leader, commanded the other, and 
 proceeded as far as the town of Obidos, where he turned them both over to me 
 to deliver to the proper authorities, assisted by his friend, Mr. Z. B. Cavaly. Dr. 
 Whittemore then returned to New York. 
 
 " These steamers were not iron, — as frequently stated by newspaper paragraphs, — 
 but were constructed of pure Georgia pine, frame, planking, and all. The smaKest 
 one was ninety feet long, called the Iluallaga ; the other was one hundred and ten 
 feet in length, called the Tirado, in honor of the then Secretary of State of Peru." 
 
 In reply to the question, How did the Peruvian steamers turn 
 out ? Mr. N. replied as follows : — 
 
 " They did not turn out so well as was anticipated, or as could have been desired 
 for the credit of our country, whence they came. They were built very light, and 
 poorly finished and furnished ; so much so, that the Peruvian Government ofiBcer 
 who was appointed to receive them refused to do so, so that we wei-e left some 
 twenty-five hundred miles up the river from the ocean, with a couple of steamers 
 and two American crews, without any provision being made either by the contractor 
 or by the Peruvian Government for our support ; and of the stores we had on board 
 
 37 
 
578 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 a great poi-tion was in a damaged state. Under these circumstances, the agents of 
 the contractor were, from the necessity of the case, compelled to compromise with 
 the Governor-General of Eastern Peru, — Colonel Francisco Alvarado Ortiz, — who 
 had no authority delegated to him in the matter whatever by the Government of 
 Peru, but who, in this disagreeable juncture, acted very fairly and was exceedingly 
 liberal. By the compromise I had to remain in charge of the steamers until the 
 Supreme Government would act in the matter. But the controversy is not yet 
 finally settled, I believe, as a part of the contract-money is still due, and the 
 Government refuses to pay it, on the ground that the contract was not complied 
 with on the part of the contractor. 
 
 " One of them, the Huallaga, never turned a paddle-wheel after she reached 
 the port of Nauta, but was tied up to the bank, and was rotting all the time that I 
 was there. The other, the Tirado, made a few trips to various points above. I 
 took her on two occasions up the Rio Huallaga almost to Chasuta, which is nearly 
 three thousand five hundred miles from the ocean: one of these trips was made duriiig 
 the lowest stage of water, and I never found less than fifteen feet water anywhere in the 
 river-channel, — so that a steamer of ten feet draught can pass from the Pongo de Sal 
 to the Atlantic Ocean any day in the year. These steamers are at the present mo- 
 ment becoming more useless every day. Neither of the two boats have been run 
 for any purpose since I left them, eighteen months ago ; neither, indeed, can they 
 be used, as the Peruvians know nothing about the management of steamboats and 
 the engineers have all returned to the United States. The use of them has never 
 been worth a dollar to the Government, and never will be. 
 
 " The Salt-rapid on the Huallaga, below Chasuta, is a natural curiosity. The 
 banks of the river for more than a league are one solid mass of rock-salt, hard and 
 clear as ice, in some places of a bluish-red color, and in others almost white, appa- 
 rently the whole very pure, and in sufficient quantity to supply all South America 
 for centuries. 
 
 " I have ascended the Huallaga, Ucayali, Pasta9a, Madeira, and a short distance 
 above the Barra do Rio Negro. The Huallaga, as before mentioned, is navigable 
 for steamers the year round, for vessels of ten feet draught, as high as the Pongo de 
 Sal, without the least trouble, — and to Chasuta, with ordinary caution and care, — 
 and for canoes from Tinga Maria (only three hundred miles from Lima) to the 
 mouth, down stream; but the ascent by canoes is very difficult. The country is 
 excellent, being very healthy and fertile, with numerous villages all along the banks. 
 The Pasta5a is a very fine little affluent, and is navigable for steamers several hun- 
 dred miles the greatest part of the year; but there are a number of tribes of hos- 
 tile Indians on its lower waters. The land is most excellent, and the best Peruvian 
 bark on the upper rivers is found on this stream. There are sometimes small 
 quantities of gold brought down by the friendly Indians near its head-waters : I 
 have seen some very fine specimens of it. The Ucayali can be ascended by a light- 
 draught steamer nearly six hundred miles a part of the year, and as far as Sarayacu 
 the whole year. The Rio Madeira is also a fine stream : it is navigable for any 
 class of river-steamers to the Falls ; but at no time can a steamer ascend these 
 rapids. However, above the dozen rapids, there is plenty of water for several hun- 
 dred miles, for a small steamer, the year round." 
 
 In 1853, a translation of Lieutenant Maury's letters was published 
 in the widely-circulated Correio Mercantil of Eio de Janeiro; and I 
 well remember the commotion his communications on the Amazon 
 
 J 
 
Effect of Lieutenant Mauky's Letters in Brazil. '579 
 
 caused at the capital, in connection with a report that a "flibustier- 
 ing" expedition was fitting out at New York to force the opening 
 of the great river. 
 
 It is certainly a matter of deep regret that one whose writings 
 and scientific investigations have (notwithstanding his manifold 
 short-comings in regard to his own country) blessed and are bless- 
 ing the world, should have permitted himself to make use of lan- 
 guage which could only inflame a sensitive nation, and of some 
 arguments which can only tend to "flibustiering." If Lieutenant 
 Maury had left out the offensive language, and a portion of his 
 reasoning, which has been by Brazilians legitimately construed as 
 nothing less than an advocacy of the theory that might makes 
 right, I believe that it would have spared much unnecessary sus- 
 picion and jealousy. Since that time a better feeling has been 
 growing between the two countries; and we are sure that the time 
 will come when both governments will be closely linked by com- 
 mercial interest,* while we should receive Brazil's great staples free 
 
 * In the United States Commercial Relations for 1864 I find the following are 
 the two leading staples of trade, by James Monroe, Esq., Consul at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 The total importation of flour in Rio de Janeiro during the year 1863 amounted 
 to 319,852 barrels, of which 241,362 barrels were from the United States. The 
 number of barrels imported from the United States in 1862 was 261,865, and in 
 1861 302,061. 
 
 There were exported from this city in 1863 1,353,273 bags of cofl"ee, against 
 1,487,583 bags for 1862, and 2,064,335 bags for 1861. This decrease of ex- 
 portation has been due to a falling oif in the crops. During both the years last 
 named all the coffee raised in this province which was not required for home 
 consumption was exported at high prices. The decrease in the amount of the 
 crops has been due, in part, to unfavorable seasons and the ravages of an insect 
 which attacks the tree and sometimes the flower and newly-formed fruit, but 
 still more to defective modes of agriculture and the want of labor. The lack of 
 laborers might be in part supplied by the introduction of suitable machinery. 
 This has been done to a small extent; but improvements of this kind seem to 
 spread slowly among the great plantations in the interior. The partial failure 
 of the crops upon many old estates is no doubt owing to the continued cropping 
 of many successive years without making the necessary returns to the soil. 
 
 While the exportation of coffee from this port to the United States in 1861 
 was 756,355 bags, in 1862 it was but 394,656 bags, and in 1863 only 388,875 bags. 
 The causes of this decrease in the consumption of coffee in our country are too 
 well understood to require explanation here. It is a striking example of the 
 manner in which important events in countries widely separated become related 
 to each other — events having no common origin in material or political causes, or 
 in the plans of any human intelligence — that the falling off in the coffee crop 
 of Brazil for the past three years has been nearly balanced by the decrease in 
 the demand for the article in the United States. 
 
580 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 of dut}', and that which is exported by us to Brazil ought not to 
 be heavily taxed. The property of our citizens dying intestate 1$ 
 administered by the Brazilian Government in a manner that never 
 gives satisfaction. Outrages committed upon citizens of the United 
 States in distant portions of the Empire in 1853 very tardily met 
 with redress from the interior magistrates, whose feelings towardl 
 Norte Americanos were embittered by the conclusions arrived at 
 after reading the letters of Tenente Maury. It was long ere we 
 regained the sympathies which we had in 1850, when it was pro- 
 posed, in case of war with England, that the whole Brazilian coast- 
 trade should be put under the flag of the United States. 
 
 At Bio, Senhor de Angelis replied to Lieutenant Maury's 
 ''Amazon and the Atlantic Coasts of South America," (Port, 
 trans.,) and his arguments, supported by Vattel and other writers 
 on international law, arc very ably stated. His volume, how- 
 ever, contains at its close some very pointed and plain language 
 in regard to Texas and Greytown, which adds nothing to his 
 argument. 
 
 We hope, however, that the judicious policy of the Union will 
 always maintain a course which should be that of a country 
 ■professing the j)rinciples of justice and liberality. 
 
 Whether the Amazon region, at least in the vicinity of the great 
 river, can ever be thickly peopled b}^ a more Northern race, re- 
 mains to be seen. It is in one range of temperature, (not like the 
 Mississippi, which enjoys every variety of climate,) and is as yet 
 an almost unbroken wilderness. Some persons who have given 
 much attention to this subject argue from the nature of the 
 case that the provinces of Para and Amazonas can never become 
 flourishing rendezvous for Northerners. But, as Brazil differs 
 from all other tropical countries, it may be that the "howling 
 wilderness" of the Amazon will yet smile with industry and 
 civilization. This was my conviction when in that valley in 1862. 
 
 As the case stands, Brazil certainly has the right, and the sole 
 right, to control the rivers within her own borders, no matter if 
 they do rise in other states; and, as previous to the treaty which 
 gave the United States the right of descending the St. Lawrence 
 no other country would have had the right to force England to 
 open to the United States that river because many of her tri- 
 
Benefit to be Derived from Opening the Amazon. 581 
 
 butaries have their rise iu the territory of the Union, so there is 
 no justice in any proposition to force Brazil to concede the free 
 navigation of the Amazon. So ntiuch for the principle involved. 
 But we are happy to say that Brazil has waived all narrow state 
 polic}^ and precedent, and on the Tth of September, 1867, declared, 
 by Imperial decree, the Amazon open to the flags of all nations, 
 from the Atlantic to Peru. Brazil has thus applied to the Amazon 
 the most enlarged political economy, and will in due time reap 
 incalculable benefits in the development of her vast resources. 
 
 About one-half of Bolivia, two-thirds of Peru, three-fourths of 
 Equador, and one-half of New Grenada, are drained by the Amazon 
 and its tributaries. For the want of steam-communication the 
 trade of all these parts of those countries goes west over the 
 Andes to Callao. There it is shipped, and, after doubling Cape 
 Horn and sailing eight or ten thousand miles, it is then only off 
 the mouth of the Amazon, on its way to Europe or the United 
 States; whereas, if the navigation of the Amazon were free, the 
 produce of the interior could be landed at Para for what it costs 
 to convey it across the Andes to the ports of the Pacific. 
 
 Note for 1866. — In 1802, J. C. F. travelled on the Amazon from its mouth to 
 the limits of Pei'u, in the new steamers ISIandos, Belem, Icamyaba, and the 
 Inca. The Amazon Navigation Company (whose President is the well-known 
 Baron de Maua, a Brazilian nobleman and financier at Rio de Janeiro, and whose 
 chief director at Par4 is the energetic Sr. Pimento Bueno) has conferred the 
 greatest blessings upon that region, which is yet destined to see a greater deve- 
 lopment. The line has increased its steamers and its efficiency generally; and 
 now the Peruvians have inaugurated a line on their share of the Amazon and the 
 branches up the Solimoes and the Huallaga. The colonies referred to on page 575 
 have ceased, from various causes; but the valley has gained. It is still a vast 
 wilderness; but the volumes of Bates, ("Naturalist on the Amazon," London, 1863,) 
 the observations of M. Brunet, a thorough but most modest explorer, the labors 
 of Coutinho, Costa de Azavedo, and Scares Pinto in 1861, '62, and '63, and the 
 magnificent explorations now being conducted by Professor \gassiz, will turn 
 the attention of the world to this wonderful basin. The kind attentions of Sr. 
 Pimento Bueno, Charles Jenks Smith, and Dr. Coutinho, at Pard,; of Dr. Peixoto 
 (Municipal Judge at Cametd), Dr. Marcos at Villa Bella, Mr. Jeffries at Obidos, 
 and Sr. Jos<S de Freitas Guimaraes, Henrique Antonii, Dr. Gustave, and Charles 
 Collyer contributed much to procure the collections for Professor Agassiz made by 
 me in 1862. 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 The authors, in reviewing the ground which they have gone 
 
 over in this volume, only feel the imperfection of their labors and 
 
 how difficult has been the task to give in so small space a just and 
 
 general view of Brazil. They have compai*ed the Empire not with 
 
 England and the United States, but with other countries of the 
 
 New World which have been peopled by descendants of the Latin 
 
 race. This they believe to be the true mode of comparison. Many 
 
 errors may thus be avoided. In the year 1857 their attention was 
 
 called to an editorial in one of the most widelj'-circulated and 
 
 influential papers of our country, in which occurs the following 
 
 sentence : — 
 
 " To those who wish to know how deep human nature can sink in moral degrada- 
 tion and the extreme limit of monarchical imbecility, we recommend a reading of 
 Ewbank's 'Brazil,' whose details of hopeless superstition, general ignorance, and 
 political demoralization have no parallel." 
 
 "We have already shown our appreciation of the author referred 
 to by direct quotations from his work ; and had he who penned 
 this editorial remembered that Mr. Ewbank (more than 20 3'ear.s 
 ago) was a stranger abiding for a few months in a new and curious 
 country, and published a journal of observations and events which 
 he jotted down from the impressions of the moment, and makes 
 but few generalizations, he (the editor) would not have been so 
 sweeping in his condemnation of Br.azil. He seems, however, to 
 have entirely overlooked one of Mr. Ewbank's few general con- 
 clusions. Ilad he read it ho would doubtless have been convinced 
 that there was something hopeful in Brazil. As the ojjinions of 
 the author in question have been often quoted to us as entirely 
 at variance with any encouragement in regard to the Empire 
 ruled by Dom Pedro II., we cite from his last chapter the follow- 
 ing, which is to the point : — 
 
 " The character of the Brazilians, I should say, is that of an hospitable, affec- 
 tionate, intelligent, and aspiring people. They are in advance of their Portuguese 
 682 
 
Conclusion. 683 
 
 progenitors in liberality of sentiment and in entei'prise. Many of their young men 
 visit Eui'ope, others are educated in the United States : add to this an increasing 
 intercourse vrith foreigners, — the means ordained by Divine Providence for human 
 improvement, — and who does not rejoice in their honorable ambition and in the 
 career opened before them ? It must be remembered, however, that no one people 
 can be a standard for any other, for no two are in the same circumstances and con- 
 ditions. The influence of climate, we know, is omnipotent ; and, from their occupy- 
 ing one of the largest and finest portions of the equatorial regions, it is for them to 
 determine how far science and the arts within the tropics can compete with thei 
 progress in the temperate zones. As respects progress, they are, of Latin nations., 
 next to the French. In the Chambers are able and enhghtened statesmen ; and the 
 representatives of the Empire abroad are conceded to rank in talent with the ambas- 
 sadors of any other country. As for material elements of greatness, no people under 
 the sun are more highly favored, and none have a higher destiny opened before them. 
 May they have the wisdom to achieve it!" — Uwbank's Sketches of Life in .Brazil. 
 
 It is impossible to appreciate the present condition of Brazil 
 without taking into view the influences of the mother-country. 
 Notwithstanding the wealth and glory of Portugal during tho 
 short period of her maritime supremacy, there are few countries 
 in Europe less fitted to become the model of a prosperous state in 
 modern times. In whatever light we consider Portugal or her in- 
 stitutions, wo find them altogether behind the spirit of the age. 
 Yet that country, as insignificent in size as it is indifferent in con- 
 dition, held nearly half of South America under the iron sway of 
 colonial bondage from the period of its discovery until 1808, — we 
 might. almost say 1822. 
 
 The short space of forty four years is all that Brazil has yet 
 enjoyed for the great object of establishing her character as an 
 independent nation. During that period she has had to contend 
 with great and almost numberless difficulties. A large proportion 
 of the inhabitants were persons born or educated in Portugal, and 
 consequently imbued with the narrow views and the illiberal feel- 
 ings so common to the Portuguese. The laws, the modes of doing 
 business as well as of thinking and of acting, that universally pre- 
 vailed, were Portuguese. All these required decided renovation in 
 order to suit the circumstances of a new empire rising into being 
 during the progress of the nineteenth century. 
 
 Such a renovation is not the work of a day; and if it should 
 appear that as yet it has only properly commenced, still, the Bra- 
 zilian nation will stand before the world as deserving the highest 
 credit. She has broken off bonds that had remained riveted upon 
 
584 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 her for ages. She has advanced from a degrading colonial servi- 
 tude to a high and honorable position among the nations of the 
 earth. What is perhaps still bettei', she cherishes a desire for 
 improvement. She directs a vigilant eye toward other nations; 
 she observes the working of their different institutions, and mani- 
 fests a disposition to adopt those which are truly excellent, as far 
 and as fiast as they can be adapted to her circumstances. 
 Her finances are in a very good condition. But she should 
 be ready to accept and to court a greater reciprocity among the 
 nations of the earth, and should abandon all narrow policy. 
 
 The revenues of the Empire are almost entirely the product of 
 heavj^ duties upon commerce. Unfortunately, the nation has but 
 few manufactures to call for her high tariff as a means of protec- 
 tion. Her duties upon imports constitute a direct tax upon inter- 
 nal consumption ; while the duties upon exports embarrass her 
 trade abroad. Thus, agriculture is doubly oppressed, and it is 
 under the burden of great difficulties that the immense resources 
 of the country are to a comparatively small degree developed. 
 
 Were there no other means of providing for the expenses of 
 government, it would, perhaps, be idle to dwell upon this ruinous 
 process, unless it were to comment ujjon it as a necessary evil. 
 But is there no possibility of raising a revenue for Brazil from the 
 sale of public lands? Millions upon millions of acres remain as 
 yet unappropriated, notwithstanding the utter cai'elessness with 
 which the richest and most valuable portions of the public domain 
 have hitherto been 3'ielded to tbe ownership of whomsoever might 
 incline to take possession of it. Might not Government surveys be 
 instituted, and the whole country brought under legal demarca- 
 tion? Hitherto, not one-fiftieth part of it was ever surveyed; 
 and even in some populous districts great uncertainty respecting 
 boundaries still exists. It is understood that a reform in this 
 direction has been begun. But what advantages could result 
 from these surveys, unless spontaneous foreign immigration were 
 encoiiraged ? 
 
 Great things have been done in this respect, but more still re- 
 mains to be accomplished. But the colonial system has not proved 
 the success which its friends had hoped. The popular mind is 
 waking up to the true mode. Intelligent emigrants are needed. 
 
COKCLUSION. 585 
 
 Open wide the doors, let the Government throw off all restriction 
 of passports and every tax upon the emigrant, and the great and 
 small proprietors will not have to resort to expensive means to 
 induce immigration : it will flow of itself. 
 
 Education is daily exciting increased attention. In the new 
 system of school-instruction, the French model has heen generally 
 followed. Having already' described institutions of the various 
 grades, — from the primary school to the law-university, — it will 
 now be sufficient to remark that a great degree of improvement 
 upon the former state of things is already manifest; but at the 
 same time the work of educational reform has only commenced. 
 The teachers' salaries are too low; the interest among the com- 
 mon peoj)le requires to be more fully excited; and a very serious 
 obstacle is to be overcome in the want of suitable school-books. 
 
 It is sad to often find hinderanccs to the cause of education in 
 the very men who ought to be leaders in the movement for the 
 intellectual as well as the moral training of the young. A single 
 instance and a general remark will illustrate what wo mean. 
 
 A priest residing in one of the most prominent cities of the 
 Empire, and, indeed, exercising his functions beneath the very 
 shadow of one of the universities, was heard to say, ^'Ndo gosto de 
 livros; gosto 7nais de jogar," (''1 have no relish for books; I like 
 gaming better.") In corroboration of these remarks is the lan- 
 guage of a distinguished Brazilian statesman, uttered before the 
 Imperial Legislature : — 
 
 "A narrow strip on the coast is all that enjoys the benefits of civilization; while, 
 in the interior, our people are still, to a great degree, enveloped in barbarism." 
 In immediate connection with this remark, the same gentleman added, "We have 
 been unable to do any thing, and nothing can be accomplished without the aid of a 
 moral and intelligent clerg}'." 
 
 Notwithstanding the picture sketched in these brief but just 
 intimations, there is much room to hope for Brazil on the score 
 of education. The schoolmaster is abroad in the Empire; the 
 press is at work; but the number of scholars has not proportion- 
 ately increased with the population since 1855. Let slavery be 
 done awa}'^, and the next decade will witness a vast improvement. 
 
 The history of Brazilian literature is brief; yet, under the cir- 
 cumstances in which it has sprung up, that literature must be 
 considered creditable. Of all that has been written in the Portu- 
 
686 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 guese language within the last hundred years, Brazil has produced 
 her full proportion of what is meritorious. The volumes of the 
 Canon Pinheiro (Eio de Janeiro) on Portuguese literature, and of 
 Wolf (Berlin) on Brazilian literature, sufficiently attest this. 
 Portugal has never produced a scientific man superior to Jose 
 Bonifacio de Andrade : indeed, for years she borrowed this distin- 
 guished Brazilian to adorn her university of Coimbra and her 
 medical schools of Lisbon. The only living Portuguese prose 
 writer who excels the Brazilian prose writers is Alexander Hercu- 
 lano of Lisbon. He is the present master in historic writing, and, 
 though differing from them both, may be compared to Lord 
 Macaulay or Mr. Prescott. As a prose writer, however, Torres 
 Homem, a Brazilian statesman tinged with as much African blood 
 as courses the veins of Alexander Dumas, is by the admission of 
 literary men at Rio their first prose writer. It is to be regretted 
 that he has not devoted himself more to literature. Perhaps the 
 most pojDular native writer of fiction is Sr. Alencar, author of the 
 Guarani. He has had the good taste and foresight to take up a 
 native subject. In historic writings, while there have been many 
 essaj'S, the largest works are those of Varnhagen (now Brazilian 
 minister to Peru) and Pereira da Silva. The former has amassed a 
 vast amount of material for future writers of history, while the 
 latter is now publishing what he purposes to be an exhaustive 
 history of his country. The Quarterly Eeview of the Imperial 
 Geographical and Historical Institute for thirty years has been 
 enriched by well-written articles and essays in history and geo- 
 graphy. In political writing the Brazilian press has abounded. 
 Tormerly their political theories w^ere greatly influenced by French 
 writers, but at the present time no foreigner so influences the minds 
 of the younger and middle-aged Brazilian statesmen as John Stuart 
 Mill. The key-note and, indeed, the burden of Sr. Zacarias' Poder 
 Moderador is John Stuart Mill on Liberty. In the law universities 
 of San Paulo and Pernambuco are many able professors and writers 
 on law; w4iile the medical colleges of Rio de Janeiro and Bahia 
 have writers equally eminent in their department. There are 
 wanting lay discussions on religious subjects; but we are glad to 
 see an essay on religious toleration by Sr. I. B. Bareto of Pernam- 
 buco. It is, however, in poetry that, at the present time, Brazil 
 
Conclusion. 587 
 
 excels the mother-country. The names of Magalhaens and Gon- 
 Qalves Dias, in poetry, stand deservedly high. Gonyalves Dias ia 
 supreme in lyric poetry. His sad and tragic end on board a wrecked 
 ship in sight of his native land caused the profoundest emotion 
 throughout Brazil. There are many other poets of merit, but who 
 have only written fugitive pieces. Within the last few years the 
 example of Dom Pedro II. has influenced the young men to the 
 study of the English and American poets. Excellent translations 
 of the poetry of Longfellow and Whittier have, among others, been 
 made by the Emperor, M. M. Lisboa, Pedro Luiz, and Bittincourt 
 S. Paio. Porto Alegre, Macedo, Norberto, and Assis are well 
 known. 
 
 It may perhaps be considered by some as a misfortune, in a lite- 
 raiy point of view, to Brazil, that her language is the Portuguese. 
 A jjrcjudice against that language prevails extensively among 
 foreign nations; and, although that prejudice is in a great degree 
 unjust, it will not soon be overcome. The learned have seldom 
 been induced to acquire that knowledge of the language which is 
 essential to an appreciation of its real merits. Those who have 
 formed its acquaintance accord to it high praises. Mr. Southey, 
 for example, has declared it to be "inferior to no modern speech," 
 and to contain " some of the most original and admirable works 
 that he had ever perused." Schlegcl, in his "History of Litera- 
 ture," bears the very highest testimony to the beauty and copious- 
 ness of the Portuguese language, and cannot restrain his admira- 
 tion for De Camoes. Of the Lusiad a distinguished French writer 
 has said, "It is the first epic of modern times." (It must be remem- 
 bered that the Latin nations have never been able to comprehend 
 Milton.) M. de Sismondi says, "The distinguished men whom 
 Portugal has produced have given to their country every branch 
 of literature." And again: — -"Portuguese literature is complete : 
 we find in it every department of letters." (^De la Litterature du 
 Midi de V Europe, t. iv. p. 262.) "The Portuguese language," 
 says M. Sane, "is beautiful, sonorous, and copious: it is free 
 fx'om that gutturalness with which we reproach the Spanish : it 
 has the sweetness and flexibility of the Italian and the gravity 
 and descriptiveness of the Latin." {Poesie Lyrique Portuguaise, 
 p. xc Paris, 1808.) In fine, it may be remarked that no living 
 
588 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 language — not excepting the SjDanish and Italian — is so near in 
 every respect the tongue of old Imperial Eome as that of Lusi- 
 tania. If the Brazilians, possessing such a language, shall develop 
 the genius and the application necessary to such a result, they 
 may j'et, by creating a literature worthy of themselves, secure 
 the respect and admiration of the world. 
 
 Notwithstanding so little is known of the Portuguese language 
 to certain classes of the literati, it prevails wherever there are or 
 have been settlements of that nation, — not only in Brazil and the 
 Portuguese Islands, but along the coasts of Africa and India, from 
 Guinea to the Cape of Good Hope and from the Cape of Good 
 Hope to the Sea of China, — extending over almost all the islands 
 of the Malayan Archipelago. 
 
 How interesting it would be to witness light and truth radiating 
 from Brazil and spreading their influences to each of those distant 
 climes ! Before such an event can be reasonably anticipated, how 
 great must be the changes in the moral and religious condition 
 of the Empire ! 
 
 The ecclesiastics are notoriously coi*rupt. The report of a Minis- 
 ter of Justice not many years ago contains the following language : — 
 
 "The state of retrogression into which our clergy are falling is notorious. The 
 necessity of adopting measures to remedy such an evil is also evident. . . . The 
 lack of priests who will dedicate themselves to the cure of souls, or who will even 
 offer themselves as candidates, is surprising. ... It may be observed that the 
 numerical ratio of those priests who die or become incompetent through age and 
 infirmity is two to one of those who receive ordination. Even among those who 
 are ordained, few devote themselves to the pastoral work. They either turn their 
 attention to secular pursuits, as a means of securing greater conveniences, emolu- 
 ments, and reffpect, or they look out for chaplaincies and other situations, which 
 ofiTer equal or superior inducements, without subjecting them to the literary tests, 
 the trouble and the expense, necessary to secure an ecclesiastical benefice. 
 
 " This is not the place to investigate the causes of such a state of things ; but 
 certain it is that no persons of standing devote their sons to the priesthood. Most 
 of those who seek the sacred office are indigent persons, who, by their poverty, are 
 often prevented from pursuing the requisite studies. Without doubt, a principal 
 reason wliy so few devote themselves to ecclesiastical pursuits is to be found in the 
 small income allowed them. Moreover, the perquisites established as the remunera- 
 tion of certain clerical services have resumed the voluntary chai'acter which they 
 had in primitive times, and the priest who attempts to coerce his parishioners into 
 the payment of them almost always renders himself odious, and gets little or 
 nothing for his trouble." 
 
 At the present time Brazil is in want of nothing so much as 
 
 pious, self-denying ministers of the gospel, — men who, like the 
 
Conclusion. 689 
 
 Apostle to the Gentiles, will not count their lives dear unto them- 
 selves that they may win souls to Christ. And is it too much to 
 hope that God in His providence will raise up sucK men in His own 
 way, especially when we reflect that His own Word shall not 
 return unto Him void, and that faithful prayer shall never be for- 
 gotten before the throne of the Most High. 
 
 We might have unfolded before the reader many more incidents 
 of labor in our Master's cause in Brazil, but have, from proper 
 motives, withheld details : we believe that we have every encou- 
 ragement to hope for Brazil in a religious as well as a political 
 point of view. 
 
 Several things are of instant importance to the present and future 
 welfare of Brazil. First, immediate legislation in regard to putting 
 an end, by judicious measures, to slavery in the empire. The diffi- 
 culties, though great, are not like those of the United States, where 
 there is such an unreasonable prejudice against color, and where 
 before the recent rebellion millions claimed a divine right for 
 perpetuating the accursed institution. The Brazilians have always 
 had a higher moral theory on the rights of the negro than the 
 North Americans. The economical phase of the subject is unques- 
 tioned. The very best estimates are that the number of slaves 
 from 1851 to 1861 has decreased more than one million,* and the 
 statistics in the Relatorios of the Ministers of Finance and of 
 Public Works, Agriculture, and Commerce, prove that at the end 
 of the same decade the great tropical productions of coffee, sugar, 
 cotton, tobacco, &c. had increased more than thirty per cent. The 
 seriousness with which her own statesmen are taking up this 
 subject, the openly-expressed and well-known anti-slaveiy senti- 
 ments of the Emperor, all are so many earnests that the appeals to 
 Brazil by such calm, true men as Laboulaye (vide Journal de Dcbats 
 for July, 1865) and Cochin of Paris, and of devoted friends of 
 freedom in England and the United States, will not be in vain. We 
 sincerely hope that Brazil will not be the last nation to hold men 
 in, bondage, and that, in a generous rivahy, she may anticipate 
 Spain in wiping off this foul blot from her national escutcheon. 
 
 Second, suitable legislation should be immediately had in regard 
 to religious disabilities. In Appendix I we have given an article 
 from a Eoman Catholic editor at Eio on this important subject. 
 
590 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 In January, 1866, most eloquent and forcible addresses to the 
 same purpose were delivered in public meeting at the Rio Ex- 
 change, by Dr. Furquim d' Almeida, whose breadth of view and 
 practical political economy give to him something of the character 
 of the English Cobdon, and of that American friend of Brazil, 
 A. A. Low, Esq., the large-minded President of the New York 
 Chamber of Commerce. No country can ever reach a high deve- 
 lopment, moral, material, and intellectual, unless soul-liberty in its 
 fullest extent be incorporated in the political theory and practice 
 of its peojile. The speech of Dr. Furquim d'Almeida is a just and 
 strong corollary from Pedro Luiz's famous anti-Jesuit speech in 
 the liarliament of 1864, A. C. Tavares Bastos' Cartas do Solitario, 
 and 1. B. Barreto's essay on Intolerance. 
 
 Third, it is highly important in a material view that Brazil 
 should remodel her laws in regard to the manner of raisins: her 
 revenue. This subject is referred to on page 584. It is to be 
 hoped that the Paraguay war will not only see that fomenter of 
 discord, Lopez Jr., driven from South America, but that the ne- 
 cessity for increased revenue will cause timid financiers and those 
 wedded to old Portuguese notions to combine with a few men of 
 nineteenth-century notions to carry through a law for a direct and 
 an equalized mode of taxation. In a few cities there is, to a small 
 degree, direct taxation ; but too often is it of a narrow character, — 
 levying upon the foreigner, and having no general application. 
 There are some men in the province of Eio de Janeiro, outside of 
 the neutral ground of the metropolis, who are capitalists and large 
 land-owners. The junior author recalls one, who had no family 
 besides his wife, and who informed him that he (the capitalist) 
 owned eight square leagues of land, in addition to his personal 
 property, which is immense, but that he did not have to pay a 
 penny for taxes, either on his real or personal estate. Now, a 
 common road-side shopkeeper without children, having an income 
 of $2000 per annum, would have to pay to the general government 
 just as many indirect taxes for the clothes that he wore and the 
 wine that he drank (the principal imported articles that both used) 
 as the man worth his hundreds of thousands. By lowering the 
 import dues, by eradicating altogether the system of export duties, 
 and by beginning with a moderate direct impost, agriculture and 
 
Conclusion. 591 
 
 commerce will flourish. — 1868. A modified direct taxation has 
 been inaugurated. 
 
 Fourth, there should be no exclusiveness in regard to teachers 
 and professors in the higher public institutions of learning. Ac- 
 cording to the present laws, if a gifted man of science, being 
 a foreigner, should wish to remain in Brazil for six years to teach 
 his particular branch in a public institution, he could not obtain a 
 place: it can be given to none but a native or naturalized Brazil- 
 ian. We do not blame the Brazilians for cultivating a spirit of 
 nationality, but we do find fault with any thing that will foster 
 a spirit of narrowness. M. Agassiz was for years professor in a 
 university under the auspices of the Prussian government ;. but 
 Professor Agassiz did not lose his Swiss nationality b}" serving 
 under the King of Prussia, neither was he esteemed a less com- 
 petent or a less faithful teacher because he was not a Prussian. 
 When the same savant came to the United States, he remained 
 some years before becoming naturalized, and he would have been 
 held hy the public in the same estimation even if he had not become 
 an American citizen. There is scarcely a first-class institution of 
 learning in the United States without a foreign professor; and it 
 has worked greatly to the advancement of education. This spirit 
 of exclusion in Brazil is to be found in other ranks of life where 
 the calling is much more humble than that of teaching. 
 
 Brazil can afford this, and in so doing will only be carrying 
 out the same enlarged policy which characterized her conduct 
 in abrogating the monopoly of the coast trade, and in opening 
 the Amazon to the flags of all nations. As Brazil is, and will be 
 for many years, an almost purely agricultural country, a great 
 benefit will arise from the recent (1867) opening of the coast 
 trade to the flags of all nations. The Amazon, which heretofore 
 has been jealously guarded, is now open to the developments 
 which will arise from making it a free river. We therefore hope 
 Brazil will do away with all exclusiveness in regard to mental as 
 well as material things. 
 
 Lastly, red tape demands the attention of the Assemblea Geral. 
 Red tape, to an indefinite extent, exists in all the public offices 
 outside of the Imperial legislature. In that body there is a great 
 freedom from red-tapeism. If a subject is rightly presented through 
 
592 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 the usual channels, it goes through the regulai* parliamentary 
 forms, and is much less impeded than it would be in London or 
 Washington. The wording of propositions, bills, and laws is 
 singularly free from the almost endless legal tautology in the docu-' 
 ments of a similar character brought into the British Parliament 
 or into the Congress of the United States. But many of the affairs 
 in the public offices are subject to the greatest delays, from the 
 highest to the lowest functionaries, and are nearly as much involved 
 in red tape as they would be in Portugal and Spain, or as a case of 
 Chancery in an English court. There are too many citizens, as 
 well as officials, who constantly cry, Governo, Govenio; and, 
 the. government being expected to do every thing, no individual 
 activity is developed. Here is great room for improvement. 
 J The reforms indicated ai'e all very urgent; but the first three are 
 of such grave imporTance to Brazil that the heart}^ prayer of every 
 well-wisher of the country is that the Brazilians may have wisdom 
 to achieve them in such a manner as shall redound to her highest 
 good. 
 
 In finishing this volume, we cannot do better than to give a literal 
 translation of extracts from the letter of welcome and of instruc- 
 tion to some emigrants from the South of the United States, written 
 by Sr. Paula Souza, the Minister of Public Works, Agriculture, 
 and Commerce, in 1865-66; and also a few extracts from the power- 
 ful speech of Dr. Furquim d' Almeida on religious toleration. We 
 believe that this letter, as well as the speech of Furquim d'Almeida, 
 expresses the mind of His Majesty the Emperor and of the 
 enlightened minister; and if all Brazilian statesmen, on this and 
 other questions, are inspired by the same enlarged sentiments, their 
 country cannot fail to make rapid progress towards the highest 
 civilization. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro, October 9, 1865. 
 Brazil is an immense territory, as you well know, bounded on the north in 4° 
 north latitude by English and Dutch Guiana and Venezuela, and on the south 
 in almost 34° south latitude by the La Platan Republics; on the east by the 
 Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by the Republics of Peru, New Granada, &c. It 
 contains all climates, and produces, if not naturally, at least with less labor than 
 in any other part of the world, almost all the products of all the zones; and the 
 fruitfulness of its soil is not inferior to the variety of its climate, and repays with 
 usury the labor that seeks its good services. Irrigated by immense and gigantic 
 rivers, almost all navigable, and some of which are now navigated, it offers the 
 
Conclusion. 593 
 
 cheapest system of travel, and transportation for the exuberance of production 
 which seeks other countries and exportation; immense forests and wide-spread . 
 pbxins lie there unprofitable, but awaiting only the man or men that solicit pro- 
 duction from them. Its mineralogical riches are not inferior to the variety, abun- 
 dance, and excellence of its woods. 
 
 From the margins of the Amazon and its confluents to the shores of the Para- 
 guay and Parana, you will find a soil rich from its geological composition, a 
 salubrious climate, and a conformation of surface yielding with little trouble the 
 ways of communication for the products, where you and your associates may fix 
 your residence, adopting this country as your home, to go hand in hand with us, 
 (who receive you fraternally,) in raising it, by your energy and industry, to the 
 height of its destinies, — destinies revealed to us by the maguificence of its nature. 
 
 Our form of government differs little, at bottom, from that under which you 
 and your companions were reared. Our President rules during life ; and the 
 presidency is transferred by inheritance; and, without criticizing what our con- 
 temporaries of North America do, I will say that we find in this advantages of 
 order and stability which the United States of America alone, among all the 
 republics, has been able to present. As to other differences, most are those of 
 habits and customs. We alike adore liberty as the fecund principle for the 
 development of man and the human family, and alike respect governmental 
 forms as a guarantee of this liberty. 
 
 Descendants of Portuguese, and Catholics, we outwardly differ from the founders 
 of the city of Providence, Rhode Island, and from the Puritan Dissenters of Mas- 
 sachusetts. AVe do not, however, differ in the adoration of the same principle. 
 Come, then, to Brazil, where you will be welcome, and can live well, as is your due. 
 
 In the property that you may be able to bring there is one kind of which our 
 legislation does not permit entry : it is that which, perhaps, may consist of slaves ; 
 I must say more, — that the importation of even the free African is forbidden by law. 
 If, then, any of your associates possess property of this nature, they should get 
 rid of it. This, however, is not meant to imply that, once among us, they may 
 not employ their capital in that manner; unhappily, we still possess slaves, and 
 trade in them witliin the Empire, from one province to another, is permitted. 
 
 We have, already, lands surveyed and marked off in several provinces, whither 
 those emigrants who wish them can go immediately and establish themselves: 
 their extent, however, is small, and does not comport with a rapid and instanta- 
 neous introduction of a great number. This will not be, however, a thing to 
 cause difficulty, or to retard emigration, because the government is resolved to 
 go on establishing the emigrants on lands, making, consecutively and proportion- 
 ately, the surveys and limits, giving provisional title-deeds guaranteeing to the 
 holder the definite title-deeds in the legal fol-m. The law does not permit the gift 
 of lands, and requires its sale; but the price is so low, and the facilities for pay- 
 ment so great, that negligence only, or complete idleness, will be incapable of 
 satisfying them. The price varies from half a real to a real and a half the square 
 bra^a, (lid. or 21 cents, to 2s. 8d. or 63 cents, the acre,) according to the quality 
 of the land and its topographical situation: we have thus, then, a square league 
 of 3000 bra9as square (10,764 acres) for a sum of 4500 dollars at the minimum, 
 or 8250 dollars at the maximum price, whilst, in the pamphlet accompanying 
 this, Sr. Sarmiento, Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary of the 
 Argentine Republic, says that the lands of the Argentine Confederation are sold 
 at from 10,000 to 40,000 patacoons (li dollars each) the Spanish league, (about 
 7700 acres.) [N.B. The real is equivalent to half a mill of the United States.] 
 
 38 
 
694 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 With us, as there, both horned cattle and sheep produce magnificently, as like- 
 wise all other animals which man subjects to his rule and use. Coifee, sugar-cane, 
 cotton, indigo, quinine, vanilla, tobacco, as also all alimentaceous articles, pro- 
 duce wonderfully, and form the fountain of the private and public wealth of the 
 Empire. Foreigners obtain naturalization with facility. The colonist is at the 
 end of two years a dc facto Brazilian, if he desire it. Any foreigner as well as 
 the colonist can, after two years, become a citizen by making his declaration 
 before any Camera municipal. A few days are sufficient, if naturalization is 
 sought through our Parliament, which can consider emigrants as importers of any 
 industry, or capital, or those worthy from their personal qualifications. In this 
 last category you and yours will be received, and you will be able to return in 
 March, as Brazilian citizens, to the United States, to import your property, 
 machines, and industry of every kind. 
 
 If our advancement is not yet great, if our development is lingering, this does 
 not arise from political commotions, or perturbation of public order; the Bra- 
 zilian people, as worthy and brave as any other, are more than any other sociable 
 and affable, — of a gentleness of disposition nearly degenerating into a vice, and 
 which has even prejudiced its good reputation abroad. If there is some indolence 
 in our character, it has, as compensation, a profound sentiment of duty and 
 propriety. 
 
 The Brazilian citizen is free in the widest sense of the term: if in the great 
 cities or towns we see in practice all our administrative system, it is not the less 
 true that a great part of the interior lives more or less well with part of it, sus- 
 tained by that sentiment of duty and propriety and by the tendency of its gentle 
 and tolerant disposition. 
 
 We are Catholics ; we have a religion of the State ; but we force no one to follow 
 it; the constitution merely requires that the deputies profess that religion; all 
 religions may be practised, except that they cannot be in temples with the out- 
 ward form. Our municipal life has some resemblance to that of the townships 
 of North America. Every four years every citizen who possesses an income of 
 200 milreis, 100 dollars, from real estate, can vote, (if he be not guilty of an un- 
 bailable offence,) if he be more than twenty-five years old, or than twenty-one 
 years if a military officer, a priest in holy orders, a graduate of any academy, or 
 married. The voters assemble and vote for those citizens whom they desire to 
 represent them during the period of four years. These are justices of peace, and 
 form the municipal chamber, that is, the municipal executive and legislative power 
 for that quadrennial period; the police are nominated by the government of the 
 provinces ; we have the habeas corpus applied to all cases of offences, and guarantee- 
 ing the liberty of the citizen; the right of complaint is sacred, and permitted even 
 to the slave; the press is free; and the jury tries the greater part of the offences. 
 
 Whatever may be the divergence of the opinions of tie political parties in the 
 Empire, all are agreed in preserving what we possess: as in every part of the 
 world some seek to achieve the future with greater rapidity, some with less, but all 
 starting from the principle of the rights acquired, which no one desires to lessen. 
 
 Brazilian legislation grants certain and specific favors to emigrants, and the 
 government of Brazil seeks eagerly to enlarge those favors; in your letter you 
 desired to know them, and I, to furnish them complete, have ordered the legisla- 
 tion in favor of emigrants to be compiled and delivered to you. I would advise 
 you to begin your journeys through Brazil by the province of S. Paulo. Sr. Street, 
 a naturalized Brazilian citizen, has orders to accompany you; and, as he now 
 knows us, he will be able to furnish you all the information that you may require. 
 
 
Conclusion. 595 
 
 From S. Paulo go to Paramt, Santa Catharina, Rio Grande, and, on return, if 
 you desire, you can travel through our«provinces of the interior and north, where 
 you will obtain data and information that will enable you to give a just and sure 
 idea of us and our country to your associates, and if, then, you resolve on settling 
 among us, your resolution will be the fvuit of mature reflection and studies, 
 which will please us more, because we open our arms to you with fraternal soli- 
 citude, without desire to attract by hyperbole of phrase, but only by the truth 
 of fact: then we will be able to say that there are no evils that do not bring good, 
 since the ills of our contemporaries of the North have brought us good, since 
 they brought us the influx of North American energy, activity, and industry ; and 
 our grief at seeing them divided will be compensated for by the pleasure of the 
 new elements of approximation and union that are olfered to us. 
 I am, with pleasure, 
 Tours, &c. 
 
 Antonio Francisco de Paxjla Sotjza. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM A SPEECH MADE BY Dk. FURQUIM D" ALMEIDA, 
 
 At ike Exchange of Rio de Janeiro, on the occasion of forming the International 
 
 Emigration Society, January 26, 1866. 
 
 But there are not only material embarrassments which we will have to remove 
 to attract a great current of spontaneous emigration: the moral ones are much 
 more important and much more difficult to combat. They are the old prejudices 
 still encastledin our customs and in our laws, and maintained by a false patriotism 
 and an intolerant religious spirit. Powerful enemies, evei-ywhere opposing the 
 most tenacious resistance to evei-y innovation, to every idea of progress, these 
 jjrcjudices among us will not allow themselves to be vanquished easily: they will 
 struggle while they have strength, and will yield only at the last extremity. We 
 must count upon a bloody struggle, but we should not be discouraged on this 
 account ; on the contrary, we should invest ourselves with more patience and 
 more courage to attack them and overcome them. This is the principal mission 
 of our enterprise. 
 
 Moral embarrassments are represented by three orders of facts, civil, poli- 
 tical, and religious; and may be translated into civil, political, and religious 
 inequality as regards the foreigner who wishes to adopt our country as his own. 
 
 The civil inequality is quite patent. Our civil legislation prior to the law of 
 September 11, 1861, did not acknowledge marriages not celebrated according to 
 the prescriptions of the Catholic Church; that is, marriage purely and simply 
 civil did not exist: consequently, marriages celebrated between Protestants or 
 any other Dissenters, or by any other Church, were null, and for these the legi- 
 timacy of their families, the first base of every well-organized society, was 
 wanting. 
 
 The law of September 11, 1861, wishing to satisfy in some measure the just 
 complaints that were raised from all sides against this state of things, took a 
 middle course, which does not satisfy the just reclamations of those who ask for 
 civil marriage, and has much displeased the defenders of a purely religious and 
 Catholic marriage. 
 
 This law does not establish civil registry; it contents itself with merely tole- 
 rating marriages celebrated between Dissenters according to the rites of their 
 various faiths, and by their respective clergy. But nothing is changed as regards 
 
596 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 mixed marriages, and they, in the silence of the law, are regulated by the 
 anterior legislation. 
 
 The inequality and injustice in this point are manifest. The Dissenter is tole- 
 rated merely to marry according to the ritual of his faith, when civil marriage 
 should have been allowed to him as a perfect right, subject to no restriction, and 
 to none of the many abuses to which marriage not civil can give place. Now, 
 the marriage of Dissenters being merely tolerated, the consequence is that it is 
 considered illegitimate in the eyes of the Catholic religion, the religion of the 
 State, and the ecclesiastical authorities judge themselves authorized to consider 
 it as such whenever occasion offers. 
 
 Let us suppose a case which can very easily take place. A married couple, 
 of any dissenting faith, weary of one another, come to an understanding that 
 they ought to separate and marry again: they address themselves to any one of 
 our bishops, abjure their religion, adopt Catholicism, and ask license to marry 
 whomsoever each may choose. 
 
 Tlie bishop does not oppose the least doubt; he receives them into the bosom 
 of the Catholic Church, and grants them license to marry a second time, it being 
 that the Catholic Church considers as simple concubinatio a marriage not made 
 before it and according to its precepts. Facts like these have already taken place 
 among us ; and their repetition must sap the basis of family, must withdraw 
 from it all its moral strength, and implant immorality sanctioned by law. 
 
 On the other hand, the law of September 11, 1861, regulates nothing with 
 respect to mixed marriages: consequently, they continue to be performed accord- 
 ing to the previous legislation, that is, they are made before a Catholic priest and 
 according to the Catholic rites and usages sanctioned by the civil law. Now, the 
 Catholic Church does not permit marriage between a Dissenter and a Catholic, 
 unless with the condition that the Dissenter bind himself by oath to rear and 
 educate the children in the Catholic religion. 
 
 What injustice, what humiliation to the Dissenter who may wish to form ties 
 with the families of the country ! He has to subject himself to a hard and humili- 
 ating condition if he wish to obtain a Brazilian wife. He is obliged to stifle the 
 cries of his conscience, which clamors that his religion is the best, and to swear 
 that his children will be educated in the principles of that which he believes 
 worse than his own. Gentlemen, do you know of a prescription more unjust, 
 more intolerant, more absurd? 
 
 Beyond all, the worst is that it is contrary to our Constitution, which esta- 
 blishes liberty of conscience, and is useless because there is no method of enforcing 
 it. Our Constitution guarantees to all the free exercise of his religion, M'ith the 
 sole restriction that the places of worship may not have the exterior form of a 
 temple, i.e. with steeples and bells. 
 
 That is to say, every one may follow the creed that pleases him, and may edu- 
 cate his family in the same religious principles, without any authority having 
 power to call him to account. Now, then, shall the civil legislation remain in 
 flagrant contradiction to the Constitution in exacting that the Dissenter marrying 
 a Catholic shall bind himself by oath to educate the children in the Catholic 
 religion? Such a prescription is an exaction merely vexatious and humiliating, 
 without any practical result, since our civil legislation has no penal sanction for 
 it. What is the authority charged with its execution? 
 
 A voice. — The ecclesiastic authority. 
 
 Sr. FuRQUiM. — This has at its disposal neither the secular arm nor the penal 
 sanction: it can merely lay hand on excommunication, which to-day is worth no- 
 
Conclusion. 597 
 
 thing. (Cries of No! No!) The Catholic himself amongst us can abjure his 
 religion without any authority being able to call him to account, for the Consti- 
 tution guarantees to all full liberty of conscience. (New cries of No! No!) Are 
 we perchance in the Middle Ages ? Can we be under the dominion of the Inqui- 
 sition? So it might seem on hearing such warm and intolerant "No! No!" 
 Happily we are in the nineteenth century, and in one of the most free and 
 tolerant countries of modern times. I can, therefore, speak to you with all frank- 
 ness and liberty. I am a Catholic, I was educated in this religion, I intend to 
 belong to it until death ; but my reason tells me that it is needful to give to all the 
 right of adoring God according to their conscience. (Great cheers.) 
 
 By all that I have just exposed to you in relation to our legislation on mar- 
 riages, you can appreciate how much it is incomplete, unjust, and unequal. 
 
 In the political part the same injustice and inequality exist: our Constitution 
 forbids to the naturalized foreigner access to certain elevated charges of the 
 State, such as Deputy and Minister of State. There is in this a great injustice 
 and inequality. To invite the foreigner to form part of our nationality, aban- 
 doning all that is dear to him in his country, asking him to come with his family, 
 bis industry, his labor, his capital, enriching and aggrandizing our country, — to 
 close on him the doors to the highest charges of the country he adopts, is an 
 absurdity only explicable by the circumstances and the epoch in which our Con- 
 stitution was promulgated. 
 
 We had just declared our independence, and the country was yet in hostilities 
 with the mother-country. The exclusion of foreigners from certain of the higher 
 offices of the State was established on purpose to take these offices and keep them 
 from the Portuguese. Now it is absurd, and has no more a reason to exist. 
 It is an odious exclusion, — above all in a new country that has need to attract 
 emigration with all its force. 
 
 It remains to us to speak of the religious inequality in which the foreigner is 
 placed relative to the native. This inequality transudes through every pore of 
 our laws, beginning with the Constitution, which establishes that the religion of 
 the State is Catholic, and considers it as a civil and political institution which has 
 a distinct place among the various branches of our social organization. 
 
 For it are destined all the official honors; churches constructed at the cost 
 of the State; an important place in the estimates; imposts paid by all the fol- 
 lowers of all religions, and of which it alone has the advantage. To other faiths 
 the Constitution merely concedes tolerance ; it admits them, but with a certain 
 distrust, with a certain reserve, in which Dissenters can discern a species of con- 
 tempt. On the other hand, the Constitution exacts, for the exercising of certain 
 offices, the oath to maintain the Catholic religion. It is a new embarrassment, 
 a new injustice to the naturalized foreigner who belongs to a dissenting faith. 
 Either he must be untrue to his conscience, or he has to see himself excluded for- 
 ever from aspiring to the many high charges of the State. 
 
 All these embarrassments, united to those we already mentioned in the part 
 relative to marriages, constitute the most difficult part of our programme. The 
 religious question arouses serious difficulty on both sides. On one hand we have 
 to overcome the prejudices of the country in that respect; on another, the 
 sectaries of dissenting faiths show the highest repugnance to come to a country 
 where their faith is merely tolerated, whilst marriage, which is the basis of the 
 family and of society, does not rest upon solid and secure bases, and in which 
 the difierence of religion excludes them from certain elevated charges of the 
 State. 
 
598 Brazil and the Brazilians. 
 
 They are serious obstacles ; but they must be vanquished if we wish a wide 
 current of spontaneous emigration to travel towards our country. From the 
 countries of the Latin race and of the Catholic religion few emigrants can come 
 to us; the Latin race has little tendency towards emigration. For a proof I will 
 cite France, which with all her power and resources has shipwrecked in the 
 enterprise of peopling her colonies. The tendency to emigration only exists in 
 the Anglo-Saxon and Teutonic races. If, then, we seriously wish to jjeople our 
 country, we should open its gates to all races and religions, abolishing all the 
 religious embarrassments that still exist in our laws relative to Dissenters. 
 
 By all I have just set forth to you, you must have comprehended what is our 
 end in undertaking to found an international association of emigration, and what 
 is the programme which it should have in view. You recognize that, to obtain 
 a wide current of emigration to our country, it is indispensable, iirst of all, to 
 treat of removing the obstacles that oppose themselves to it within the country. 
 We see that these obstacles are material and moral; that among the material 
 surges up the competition of slave labor, which it is needful to combat. We see 
 that it is necessary to develop and perfect our ways of communication, to survey 
 and mark off the public lands in localities appropriated to colonization. 
 
 As to the moral obstacles, we recognize as the principal the civil, the political, 
 and the religious inequality, and we see that it is indispensable to reform our 
 legislation on marriage, establishing civil marriage, admitting the naturalized 
 foreigner to all the ofiBces of State, and putting an end to the ditFerences of 
 religion in all that I said respecting the civil and political rights of the naturalized 
 foreigner. 
 
 Our end, then, is very patent ; our programme very clear. We need to employ 
 all the means within our reach to remove all the material and moral obstacles 
 that oppose themselves to emigration. It is in this sense that all the powers of 
 our association should be directed. If we in heart wish that our country be 
 enriched and aggrandized; if we wish that there travel hither a wide and vast 
 emigration of individuals of all the advanced races of Europe and the United 
 States, who profess all varieties of faith ; if we wish them to settle and amal- 
 gamate with our population, forming a homogeneous and strong nationality, and 
 not constituting in the bosom of our country little nationalities distinct in race, 
 in language, in religion, in customs, enemies and rivals, without cohesion among 
 them, — if, in fine, we wish that our country fifty years hence be a nation on the 
 European or North American model, and not an insignificant nation on the 
 African, the Chinese, or the Indian model, the road to follow is this that we have 
 just traced. Let us follow it with boldness, with perseverance, with sincere 
 patriotism. (Many cheers and shouts of "Well done.") 
 
NOTES. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Americus Vespuctos fiires worse at the hands of some Portuguese authors than Pinzon. The 
 Padre Ayres de Casal, in his Corograplda BrasiVca, urges that the Florentine "never accompanied 
 Gongallio Coelho or Christopher Jaques in their explorations of the coast of Brazil." Gen. J. I. d'Abreu 
 Lima, in a note (page 8) to his Historia do Brazil, roundly asserts that Americus Vespucius did 
 not accompany the two navigators mentioned above, (iw/aria o que se p6de negar mm bnas authnridades 
 £ que elle accompanhasse ans dtris primeirns exploradores Portugueses acima mentinnados.) It is true, 
 also, that Robertson throws doubt upon some of the dates of Americus Vespucius, but more recent 
 writers, of equal authority, give the account as stated in the text. This hesitation on the part of some 
 Portuguese and Spanish historians, in regard to Americus, is doubtless influenced by the sentiment, on 
 one side, that the employment of the Florentine by the King D. Manoel necessarily supjioses an under- 
 rating of the Lusitanian navigators, — which does not follow, because the latter, in the expeditions 
 referred to, appear to liave had the supreme command : on the side of the Spaniards, tliey never 
 could forgive Americus for having supplanted, in the New World, the name of Columbus, of whom they 
 are as proud as if he were a Castilian. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 It is commonly supposed that the wood yielding the red dye, Ciemlpim'a Brazillettn, derived its 
 common name, Brasril-ivood, from its being principally imported from, and produced in, Brazil. This, 
 however, is not the fact. It has been shown that woods yielding a red dye were called Brazil-woods 
 long previously to the discovery of America, and that the early voyagers gave the name Brazil to that 
 part of the continent, to which it is still applied, from their having ascertained that it abounded in 
 such woods. — Bancroft's Philosophy of Colors, ii. 316-321. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The Padre Ayres Casal, in his Corof/raphia Brasilica, says that the squadron "entered the Bay of 
 Santa Luna, which name was changed to that of Rio de Janeiro, beaiuse it was entered on the first 
 day of the year, 1532." Any examination of the facts of the case aa detailed by almost every other 
 chronicler will not bear out the statements of Padre Ayres Casal. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Diario de Pedro Lopez de Souza. page 14, in which ho explicitly says, " Sabbado 30 de Abril, no quarto 
 cfalva, eramos com a bocca do Rio de Janeiro." 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 The Madeira Christians were compelled to flee for refuge to the United States, in 1850 ; and in 1852 
 most intolerant acts were sanctioned by the Portuguese Government, in order to put an end to the 
 so-called Protestant heresy in that island. 
 
 599 
 
Appendix A. 
 
 CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS THAT HAVE 
 TRANSPIRED IN THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL. 
 
 A.D. 1500. The continent of South America dis- | lo93u 
 covered on the 26th of January, by Vincent j 
 Tanez Pinzon, a companion of Columbus, | 
 and the first European who crossed the 1594, 
 equator on his way to America. 
 " April 21, Pedro Alvarez Cabral, coEmander 1615. 
 of the second Portuguese fleet that doubled 
 the Cape of Good Hope, discovered that 
 portion of the Brazilian coast now called 1624. 
 Espirito Santo. 1630. 
 
 " On May 3, he landed at Porto Seguro. 
 
 1503. The Bay of All Saints discovered by Americus 
 Tespucius. 
 
 1510. Diogo Alvarez Correa (Caramurti) ship- 
 wrecked at Bahia, (Bay of All Saints.) 1637 
 
 1530. The unexplored territory of Brazil divided 
 
 into captaincies by the King of Portugal. 1640. 
 
 1531. Martin Alfonso de Souza entered the Bay of 
 
 Nitherohy, (Rio de Janeiro,) previously 1646. 
 
 visited by De Solis and Majellan. On the 
 
 22d of January he discovered the harbor 1654. 
 
 of San Vincente, and there founded the 1661. 
 
 first European coluny. 
 1548. Numbers of Jews, having been stripped by 
 
 the Inquisition of Portugal, were banished 
 
 to Brazil. 1693. 
 
 Thome de Souza, the first governor-general, leoi 
 
 founded the city of San Salvador, (Bahia.) 
 The first bishop appointed, to reside at Bahia. 
 Villegagnon occupied the Bay of Kio de Ja- 1710. 
 
 neiro with a colony of French Protestants, 
 
 and built the f>rt which still bears his 1711. 
 
 name, upon a small island in the harbor. 
 1567. The French e.xpelled by the Portuguese and 1713. 
 
 Indians. 
 
 " The city of St. Sebastian founded. 1729. 
 
 1572. The government of the colony of Brazil di- 1758- 
 
 vided between two captains-general, resi- 
 dent severally at S. Salvador and Rio de 1763. 
 
 Janeiro. Hence the name Brazils. 1S05. 
 
 1676. The government again reduced to the juris- 1808. 
 
 prudence of one captain-general, residing 
 
 at Bahia. 
 1580. Brazil, in connection with Portugal, brought 
 
 under the dominion of Spain. 
 1391. Thomas Cavendish, the English adventurer, 
 
 Backed and burned S. "Vincente. 
 
 1549 
 
 1552 
 1555 
 
 James Lancaster, commanding a marauding 
 expedition, fitted out of London, captured 
 and plundered Pernambuco. 
 
 The French established a colony at Maran- 
 ham. 
 
 The French expelled from Maranham. 
 
 The city of Belem (Pari) founded by Fran- 
 cisco Caldeira. 
 
 The Dutch invaded Bahia. 
 
 Second invasion of the Dutch, in which th'^y 
 took possession of the whole coast of Brar 
 zil, from the river of S. Francisco to Ma- 
 ranham. Pernambuco was their seat of 
 government. 
 
 Expedition of Pedro Teixeira, from Parfi to 
 Quito, by way of the river Amazon. 
 
 Portugal and her colonies freed from the 
 Spanish j'oke. 
 
 The Dutch defeated in the battle of the Qua- 
 rarapes, near Pernambuco ; and in 
 
 Finally expelled from Pernambuco. 
 
 Holland abandoned, by negotiation, all claim 
 to Brazil. 
 
 The diocese of Bahia constituted an arch- 
 bishopric. 
 
 Regular mining for gold commenced. 
 
 Settlements made in Minas-Gcnies. 
 
 Destniction of the famous Republic of the 
 Palmares. 
 
 Assault of the French upon Rio de Janeiro 
 under Du Clerc. 
 
 Capture of that city by Du Quay Trouin, and 
 ransom by its inhabitants. 
 
 Northern limits of Brazil defined by the 
 treaty of Utrecht. 
 
 Discovery of the diamond-mines in Serro Frio. 
 
 60. Forcible and complete expulsion of the 
 Jesuits fiom Brazil. 
 
 Transfer of the capital from Bahia to Rio. 
 
 Rev. Henry Martyn visited Bahia. 
 
 Arrival of the royal family of Portugal. 
 
 Publication of the Carta Regia. 
 
 Establishment at Rio of the first printing- 
 press in Brazil, 
 
 Second printing-press established at Bahia. 
 
 Bemark. — These two were the only presses 
 in use up to 1S21. 
 
 601 
 
602 
 
 Appendix A. 
 
 1815. Brazil elovatefl to the rank of a Kingdom. 
 
 1817. Kevolt in Pernambuco. 
 
 1818. Acclaniatiou and Coronation of D. John VI. 
 
 1821. The Constitution of the Cortes of Portugal 
 
 proclaimed and adopted at Kio. 
 " 24th Ajiril, D. John VI. returned to Portugal, 
 leaving his son, Dom Pedro, Regent of 
 Brazil. 
 
 1822. 7th September, Declaration of Independence. 
 " 12th October, Acclamation of D. Pedro as 
 
 Emperor. 
 1^ " 1st December, Coronation of D. Pedro I. 
 " " " Session of the Assembly con- 
 
 voked to draft a Constitution. 
 
 1823. Montevideo united to Brazil, under the title 
 
 of the Cisplatiue Province. 
 ' " The new Con.stitution offered to the Brazilians 
 by the Emperor. 
 
 1824. March 25. — Sworn to, throughout the Em- 
 
 pire. 
 
 " Revolt in Pernambuco. Confederation of the 
 Equator proclaimed and suppressed. 
 • 1825. Independence of Brazil recognised by Por- 
 tugal, August 29. 
 
 " Birth of the Imperial Prince D. Pedro II., 
 December 2. 
 1826. On the deatli of King Dom John VI., the Em- 
 peror of Brazil, heir-presumptive to the 
 Crown of Portugal, abdicated that crown 
 to his eldest daugliter, D. Maria II. 
 
 " Final separation of Montevideo from Brazil, 
 tliat province becoming the Cisplatine Re- 
 public. 
 
 1831. Abdication of D. Pedro I., and Acclamation 
 
 of D. Pedro II. 
 
 1832. War of the Panellas for the Restoration of 
 
 the first Emperor. 
 1834. Reform of the Constitution, creating Provin- 
 cial -Assemblies. 
 1SS5. Revolution broke out in Para, January 7. 
 " Dlogo Antonio Feyo elected Regent. 
 
 1836. Donna Januaria recognised as Imperial Prin- 
 
 cess, and heiress to tlie throne. 
 
 1837. Feijo renounced the Regency, September 19. 
 " Pedro Araujo Lima appointed Regent pro 
 
 tempore. 
 " Revolt in the city of Bahia, November 7. 
 
 1838. Restoration of Bahia, March 15. 
 
 " Death of Jose Bonifacio de Andrada. 
 " Lima elected to the Regency. 
 
 1839. First steam-voyage along the northern coast. 
 
 1840. Abolition of the Regency and Accession of 
 
 Dom Pedro II. to tli^ full exercise of his 
 prerogative as Emperor. 
 
 1841. The Emperor's Coronation, July 18. 
 
 1843. Imperial marriages. 
 
 1844. The treaty between Brazil and England, 
 
 signed in 1827, expired by limitation, No- 
 vember 11. 
 
 1845. Birth of the Imperial Prince D. Affonso. 
 
 1846. Birth of Donna Isabella, (heiress- apparent.) 
 
 1847. June 11, death of D. Affonso. 
 
 " July 1.3, Birth of Donna Leopoldina. 
 
 1849. December, First appearance of yellow fever. 
 
 1850. Sujipression of the slave-trade. First steam- 
 
 ship-line to Europe. 
 
 1852. Overthrow of the Buenos Ayrean Dictator 
 
 Rosas by the aid of the Brazilian arms. 
 " Ground broken for the first railway. 
 
 1853. The first locomotive on the Mau& Railwajr, 
 
 and steamers on the Amazon. 
 
 1854. Rio de Janeiro lit by gas. 
 
 1855. Surveys for various railways. 
 
 1857. The first section of the Pedro Segundo Rail- 
 way finished. 
 
 1858-59. First section of Pernambuco Railway 
 opened. Bahia Railway do. 
 
 1S64. Marriage of the two princesses. 
 
 1865. War with Paraguay. 
 
 1866. Opening of S. Paulo Railroad. 
 
 1866. March 19, Birth of a son to D. Leopoldina. 
 
 1867. Dec. 7, Birth of a second son to the same. 
 
 IMPERIAL FAMILY. 
 The Crown of Brazil is hereditary in the line of direct succession. 
 
 Emperor— Dom Pudro II. d'Alcantara, born Dec. 2, 1825. Salary, $440,000; and income from largo 
 estates. 
 
 Empkess — Donna Theresa Christina, sister to the King of the Two Sicilies. Salary $54,800 
 
 Imperial Princesses — Donna Isabella, heiress-apparent, born in 1846; Donna Leopoldina, born in 
 1847. 
 
 Donna Isabella married, October 16, 1864, the Count d'Eu, eldest son of the Duke de Nemours. 
 
 Donna Leopoldina, the second princess, married the Prince Auguste de Saxe-Coburg, December, lS6t. 
 
 Emperor's Sisters— Donna Januaria, born 1822. Married to the Prince D. Luiz Conde d'Aqoilla, 
 1843. Donna Francisca, born in 1824. Married to the Prince de Joinville, 1843. 
 
 In Portugal. 
 Ex-Empress of Brazil, the Duchess of Braganza. Donna Amelia AnonsTA. widow of Dom Pedro I. ; 
 born in 1812. 
 
 Note. — In case of the death of D. Pedro II. without issue, his sister Donna Januaria, who has three 
 children, will succeed to the throne ; and at her decease her eldest child will be the Monarch of Brazil. 
 
Appendix B. 
 
 ABSTRACT OF THE BRAZILIAN CONSTITUTION, SWORN TO ON THE 
 25TH OF MARCH, 1824, AND REVISED m 183-i. 
 
 (1) Brazil is declared an Independent Empire, and its GoTsrnment Monarchial, institutional, and 
 Representative. (2) The Reigning Dynasty is to be Dom Pedro I. and his successors. (3) The Roman 
 Catholic religion is constituted that of the State ; but the exercise of all others is permitted. (4) The 
 unrestricted communication of thought, either by means of words, writings, or the agency of the 
 press, exempt from censure, is guaranteed: with the condition that all who abuse this privilege shall 
 become amenable to the law. (5) A guarantee founded on the principles of the English Habeas Corpus 
 Act. (6) The privileges of citizenship are extended to all free natives of Brazil, to all Portuguese 
 resident there from the time of the Independence, and to all naturalized strangers. (7) The law is 
 declared equal to all : all are liable to taxation in proportion to tlieir possessions. (8) The highest oflScea 
 of the State are all laid open to every citizen ; and all pri\ileges, cxcepMng those of office, abolished. 
 (9) The political powers acknowledged by the Constitution are the Legislative, the Moderative, the 
 Executive, and the Judicial; all of which are acknowledged as delegations from the nation. (10) It is 
 declared that the General Assembly shall consist of two chambers : the Chamber of Deputies are to hold 
 their office for four years only ; the Senators are appointed for life. (11) The especial attributes of the 
 Assembly are to administer the oaths to the Emperor, the Imperial Prince, the Regent, or the Regency; 
 to elect the Regent or Regency, and to fix the limits of his or their authority, to acknowledge the 
 Imjierial Prince as successor to the throne, on the first meeting after his birth; to nominate the 
 guardian of the young Emperor in case such g\iardian has not been named in the parental testament; 
 to resolve all doubts relative to the succession on the death of the Emperor or vacancy of the throne; 
 to examine into the past administration, and to reform its abuses; to elect a new dynasty in case of 
 the extinction of the reigning family ; to pass laws, and also to interpret, suspend, and revoke them ; 
 to guard the Constitution, and to promote the welfare of the nation; to fix the public expenditure and 
 ta.\es; to appoint the marine and land forces annually upon the report of the Government; to concede, 
 or refuse, the entry of foreign forces within the Empire; to authorize the Government to contract 
 loans to establish means for the iiayment of the public debt; to regulate the administration of national 
 property and decree its alienatiju; to create or suppress public offices, and to fix the stipend to be 
 allotted to them ; and, lastly, to determine the weight, value, inscription, type, and denomination of 
 the coinage. 
 
 (12) During the term of tlieir office, the members of both Houses are alike exempted from arrest, 
 unless by the authority of their respective Chambers, or when seized in the commission of a capital 
 offence. For the opinions uttered during the exercise of their functions, they are inviolable. (13) AU 
 measures for the levying of imposts and military enrolment, the choice of a new dynasty in case of 
 the extinction of the existing one, the examination of the acts of the past administration, and the 
 accusation of Ministers, and of Councillors of State, are required to have their origin with the House 
 of Deputies. For the Indemnification of its members, it Is decided that a pecuniary remuneration shall 
 be allotted to each during the period of the sessions. (14) The number of the Senators is fixed at one- 
 half that of the Deputies, and the members are required to be upwards of forty years of age, and to 
 be in actual possession of an income amounting to at least eight hundred milreis per annum. (15) It 
 is their exclusive attribute to take cognizance of the individual crimes committed by the members of 
 the Imperial Family, Ministers, or Councillors of State, as well as of the crimes of Deputies during 
 the period of the Legislature. Their annual stipend is fixed at fifty per cent, more than that of the 
 Deputies. 
 
 (16) The Members of both Chambers are to be chosen by Provincial Electors, who are themselves to 
 be elected by universal suffrage, — in which only minors, monks, domestics, and individuals not in the 
 receipt of one hundred milreis per annum, are excluded from voting. (17) The Senators are nominated 
 by the Provincial Electors in triple lists, from which three candidates the Emperor selects one, who holds 
 office for life. (19) Each Chamber is qualified with powers for the proposition, opposition, and approval 
 of projects of law. In case, however, the House of Deputies should disapprc ve of the amendments oi 
 
 603 
 
604 Appendix B. 
 
 gdditions of the Senate, or vice versd, the dissenting Chamber shall have the privilege of requiring o 
 temporary union of the two Houses, in order that the matter in dispute may be decided in General 
 Assembly. 
 
 (20) A veto is conceded to the Emperor ; but it is only suspensory in its nature. In case three suo- 
 cessive Parliaments should present the same project for the Imperial sanction, it is declared that on the 
 third presentivtion it shall, under all and any circumstances, be considered that the sanction had been 
 conceded. (21) The ordinary annual sessions of the two Houses of Legislature are limited to the period 
 of four months. 
 
 (22) To each province of the Empire there is a legislative Assembly, for the purpose of discussion on 
 its particular interests, and the promotion of projects of law accommodated to its localities and 
 urgencies ; but these Assemblies are not invested with any power excepting that of proposing laws o' 
 provincial interest. 
 
 (23) The attributes of the moderative power (which is designated the key to the entire political organ- 
 ization, and which is vested exclusively in the hands of the Emperor) are the nomination of Senators, 
 according to the before-mentioned regulations; the convocation of the General Assembly whenever the 
 good of the Empire shall require it; the sanction of the decrees or resolutions of the Assembly; the 
 enforcement or suspension of the projects of the provincial Assemblies during the recess of the Cham- 
 bers; the dissolution of the House of Deputies; the nomination of Ministers of State; the suspension 
 of magisti'ates ; the diminution of the penalties imposed on criminals; and the concession of amnesties. 
 
 (24) The titles acknowledged in the Constitution as appertaining to His Majesty are "Constitutional 
 Emperor and Perpetual Defender of Brazil." His person is declared inviolable and sacred, and he 
 himself exempt from all responsibility. He is, moreover, designated as the chief of the executive 
 power, which power is to be exercised through the medium of his Ministers. Its principal functions 
 are the convocation of a new General Assembly in the third year of each legislature, the nomination 
 of bishops, magistrates, military and naval commanders, ambassadors, and diplomatic and commercial 
 agents ; the formation of all treaties of alliance, subsidy, and commerce ; the declaration of war and 
 peace; the granting of patents of naturalization, and the exclusive power of conferring titles, military 
 orders, and other honorary distinctions. All acts emanating from the executive power are to be signed 
 by the Ministers of State, before being carried into execution ; and those Ministers are to be held 
 responsible for all abuses of power, as well as for treason, falsehood, peculation, or attemjits against 
 the liberty of the subjects. (25) In addition to the Ministry, a Council of State is also appointed, the 
 members of which are to hold offices for life. They are to be heard concerning all matters of serious 
 import, and principally on all subjects relating to war and peace, negotiations with foreign States, and 
 the exercise of the moderative power. For all counsels wilfully tending to the prejudice of the State, 
 they are to be held responsible. 
 
 (26) Tha judicial power is declared independent, and is to consist of judges and juries for the adjudi- 
 cation of both civil and criminal cases, according to the disposition of future codes for this efl'ect. The 
 juries are to decide upon the fact, and the judges to apply the law. For all abuses of power the 
 judges, as well as the other officers of justice, are to be held responsible. It is within the attributes 
 of the Emperor to suspend the judges in the exercise of their functions; but they are to be dismissed 
 from office only by a sentence of the supreme courts of appeal instituted in all the provinces. 
 
 (28) The presidinfs of the provinces are to be nominated by the Emperor ; but their privileges, qualifi- 
 cations, and authority are to be regulated by the Assembly. 
 
 (29) If, after the expiration of four years, it should be found that any articles of the Constitution 
 required reform, it was decreed that the proposed amendment should originate with the House of Depu- 
 ties ; and if, after discussion, the necessity of the reform was conceded, an act was to be passed and 
 sanctioned by the Emperor in the usual manner, requiring the electors of the Deputies for the nest 
 Parliament to confer on their representatives especial powers regarding the proposed alteration or 
 reform. On the assembling of the next House of Deputies, the matter in question was to be proposed 
 and discussed, and, if passed, to be appended to the Constitution and solemnly promulgated. (The 
 reforms were few, — the two principal being the regulation of succession in case of the death of D. 
 Pedro II. without issue, his sister Donna Januaria, or her children, becoming heirs; and changing the 
 provincial councils to provincial Assemblies.) 
 
 (30) Finally, civil and criminal codes are organized; the use of torture is abolished; the con- 
 fiscation of property is prohibited ; the custom of declaring the children and relatives of criminals 
 infamous is abrogated, and the rights of property and the public debt are guaranteed. 
 
Appendix C. 
 
 The following lines were composed by D. Pedro 11., and written by him in the album of one of the 
 Maids of Honor. They were doubtless never intended for the public eye, but were obtained through a 
 member of the diplomatic corps at Kio Janeiro. Their didactive character and great compactness iu 
 the Portuguese make a poetic translation exceedingly difficult; but they have been kindly and very 
 faithfully rendered into English verse for tliis volume by Mr. D. Bates, of Philadelphia, whose 
 "Speak Gently" has become a household word. 
 
 Se fui clemente, justiceiro, e pio, 
 Obrei o que devia. £ mui pesada 
 A Bujeigao do sceptro; e quem domina 
 Nao tem ao seu arbitrio as leis sagradas: 
 Fiel executor deve cumpri-laa 
 Mas nao pode altera^las. E o throno 
 Cadeira da Justiga; quem se assenta 
 Em tao alto lugar, fica sujeito 
 A mais severa lei; perde a vontade! 
 Qualquer descuido chega a ser enorme, 
 Detestavel, sacrilego delicto! 
 Quando no horizonte o sol espaiha 
 Sobre a face da terra a luz do dia, 
 Ninguem o admira, todos o conhecem ; 
 Mas se eclipsado acaso se pertorba, 
 Nesse instanto infeliz todos se assustao, 
 Todos o observao, todos o receiao : 
 Logo Be premiei sempre a virtnde, 
 Se OS vicios castiguei, nada merecei. 
 
 P. n. 
 
 Dec. 1852. 
 
 If I am pious, clement, just, 
 
 I'm only what I ought to be: 
 The sceptre is a weighty trust, 
 
 A great responsibility; 
 And he who rules with faithful hand, 
 
 With depth of thought and breadth of range, 
 The sacred laws should understand. 
 
 But must not, at his pleasure, change. 
 
 The chair of justice is the throne: 
 
 M'ho takes it bows to higher laws; 
 The public good, and not his own. 
 
 Demands his care in every cause. 
 Neglect of duty, — always wrong,^ 
 
 Detestable in young or old, — 
 By him whose place is high and strong, 
 
 Is magnified a thousandfold. 
 
 When in the east the glorious sun 
 
 Spreads o'er the earth the light of day, 
 All know the course that he will run. 
 
 Nor wonder at his light or way: 
 But if, perchance, the light that blazed 
 
 Is diram'd by shadows lying near, 
 The startled world looks on amazed. 
 
 And each one watches it with fear. 
 
 I likewise, if I always give 
 
 To vice and virtue their rewards, 
 But do my duty thus to live; 
 
 No one his thanks to me accords. 
 But shoald I fail to act my part. 
 
 Or wrongly do, or leave undone, 
 Surprised, the people then would start 
 
 With fear, as at the shadow'd suu. 
 
 606 
 
Appendix D. 
 
 SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE-TRADE IN BRAZIL— ENGLAND AND 
 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 [Translated from the Jornal do Commercio of Rio de Janeiro of May 26, 1856.] 
 
 It is Impossible to tindertake, with greater energy and witli more hone.sty than our Government did, 
 the difficult task of suppressing the slave-trade. This is a truth which cannot be contested, it being a 
 self-evident fact. 
 
 Notwitlistanding the old usages of our agricultural and manufacturing industry, which were actu- 
 ally based upon tlie slave-trade, and which must iiave suffered from its suppression, prejudices did not 
 even spring out of these circumstances. Injured interests, habits broken up, did not even raise a cry : 
 reason prevailed, and the prospect of future national welfare was acknowledged, and the whole nation 
 and its Government did not hesitate to accept all the sacrifices of the jiresent. in order to leave to future 
 generations the country freed from this centennial crime, however painful may be its just e.xpulsion. 
 
 In consequence of this cliange of opinion in Europe, and especially in England, toward Brazil, we 
 Bhould have thought that tlie relations between the Governments of Brazil and Great Britain had 
 attained sucli a degree of brotlierly esteem that it might be wished to exist between the official i-epre- 
 sentatives of both nations joined by so many ties of mutual interest. We were convinced tliat. seeing 
 the efforts made by the Brazilian Government properly supported by tlie general opinions of the people, 
 the English Cabinet would certainly give it credit and tlie homage of its sympathies. But the notes 
 addressed by the British legation to the Imperial Cabinet, when an attempt was made to land slaves 
 near Pernambuco, and especially the last of their notes, have completely destroyed our illusions on this 
 subject. 
 
 After having subdued the indignation caused by reading that note, considering its full extent, w« 
 said to ourselves, "What can the British Government mean when, in our present circumstances, it 
 assails us with such a threat?" Is it the suppression of the slave-trade? Certainly not. If proper 
 reflection could not suggest to that Government that by carrying the threatened measure into execu- 
 tion they would only promote and encourage that very trade which we are anxious to suppress, we 
 would recommend to them the lessons given by the years 1830 to 1850 inclusive! 
 
 Public opinion in support of our Government has strongly sustained, and maintained with all pos- 
 sible watchfulness, with all the power of reason, the conviction that the suppression of the slave-trade 
 is a true national interest: this conviction gave to our Government an incalculable strength, by which 
 it was able to obtain the entire and immediate extinction of that trade, so that whole years have 
 passed without any attempt being made to violate this law. 
 
 And when an attempt of this kind is occasionally made, it is always done through merchants of. 
 Lisbon and in Africa connected with North American adventurers, and carried on in vessels from the 
 United States; and even the BrJt-zili.an Government succeeds in discovering the agents of this crime, 
 and manages to watch and accompany them and to arrest them at the very moment when they are 
 going to perpetrate it. 
 
 And in view of tliese facts the British Government, instead of congratulating our functionaries and 
 applauding their efforts, sends us insults and threats. 
 
 In the two attempts made by Americans to establish tlie slave-trade, praise must be given to the 
 Government of Brazil alone, which has so ably succeeded in defeating and repelling them. England 
 must be conscious enough that with all her squadrons on the coast of Africa, and on the vast seas of 
 this Empire, committing even all the silly excesses of the Aberdeen bill, it would not have effected 
 any thing against attempts of that kind; and wlien our Government, by its measures and vigilance, 
 succeeds in obtaining this admirable result, we find it difficult to explain the object of the note alluded 
 to. But why, on this occasion, did not the British Government act as it would do if it believed that 
 insults and threats are the best means to suppress this trade? They ought to direct their threats and 
 insults not against us, who are innocent in this case, but against the United States. 
 
 The crime was wholly of foreign origin, and its authors were in New York and Boston. Brazil has not 
 arms long enough to reach them ; but every thing that could be done was actually done, and, at the very 
 moment that a North American crime was about to be perpetrated, a Brazilian authority stopped it. 
 606 
 
 I 
 
Appendix E. 
 
 60T 
 
 Dnt Albion's arms are long, and. with its diplomacy and crxiisers, why does not the Government of Great 
 Britain turn all its means of action and all its arrogant demands toward the Cabinet at Washington? 
 Why does she not compel it to prevent such criminal enterprises at the hands of its hold adventurers 
 and filibusters? 
 
 Tlie following is the contract between a number of Mina blacks (who freed themselves) and the 
 captain and consignee of the British brig Robert, — in which vessel they sailed for their native land, 
 and arrived safely : — 
 
 "CHARTER PARTY. 
 
 "Rio be Jaxeiro. 
 "On the 27 th of November, 1S51, it is agreed between George Duck, master of the British brig called 
 the Robert, A 1. shall receive in this port sixty-three free African men (women and children included 
 ill this number) and their luggage, and shall proceed to Bahia, and remain there, if required, fourteen 
 diys. and then proceed to a safe port in the Bight of Benin, on the coast of Africa not south of Bada- 
 gry, (the port of destination being decided in Bahia,) and deliver the same, on being paid freight here, 
 in this port, the sum of £800, to be paid before the sailing of the next British packet. The master 
 binds himself to provide for the said passengers sixty pounds of jerlced beef, two and a half alquieres 
 of farinha. and one-half an alquiere of black beans, daily ; a cooking-place and the necessary firewood 
 to be furnished by the captain ; half a pipe— say si.xty gallons — of water to be sujiplied daily. The 
 master is allowed to take any cargo or passengers and luggage that may offer at Bahia for the benefit 
 of the ship. 
 
 " Passengers and luggage to be on board on or before the 15th of December, 1S51, and disembark 
 within forty-eight hours after the ship's arrival at the port of destination. 
 " Penalty for non-performance of this agreement, five hundred pounds sterling. . 
 
 "GEORGE DUCK, 
 "RAPHAEL JOS£ OLIVETRA." 
 
 Appendix E. 
 
 TABLES OF BRAZILIAN COINS, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. 
 
 The following statistics, from the consular bureau of the United States, were most carefully made 
 out by J. S. Gillmer, Esq., American Consul at Bahia, and forwarded in his reports to the State Depart- 
 ment at Washington. These are the most correct computations of Brazilian coins, weights, and mea- 
 sures, ever presented to the English and American public. 
 
 COPPER COIN 
 is composed as follows : — 
 
 Table exhibitivg the legal gold and silver coins 
 of Brazil, with their weights in dwts. and grains 
 Troy, fineness, and comparative value in Federal 
 monei/ of the United States: — 
 
 GOLD. 
 
 DenoUtinatiou. 
 
 Dwts. 
 
 Grains. ^'^^Jlut^'^ 
 
 
 9 
 5 
 
 11 
 6 
 
 63^ 
 
 l4 
 
 $ 8.20 
 4.62 
 
 10.24 
 5.12 
 
 MiKMlas 
 
 (■20 luilreis.) 
 
 Half do 
 
 
 SILVER. 
 
 Deaomination. 
 
 Dwts. 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Comparative 
 Value. 
 
 
 17 
 5 
 
 16 
 8 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 914 
 
 41 
 
 $ 1.00 
 30 
 94 
 47 
 23^ 
 
 Two patac.as 
 
 Two-milreis piece, 
 
 One do 
 
 Eive hundred reis 
 piece 
 
 The real (pi. reis) imaginary. 
 
 Five-reis piece, (imaginary.) 
 
 Ten " " (out of use.) 
 
 Twenty-reis do. one vintem. 
 
 Forty " do. two vintems. 
 The latter weighs 18 dwts. 10 grains, of the no- 
 minal value of 2i cents. Twenty-five of these pieces 
 make a niilreis, or 1000 reis, the real being merely 
 used as a numeral. 
 
 The above calculations are not given as abso 
 lutely correct, but, with the exception of very slight 
 fractional differences, they are so. 
 
 PAR OF EXCHANGE. 
 The Brazilian "Soberano," or twenty-milrois 
 piece of the recent coinage, being worth (according 
 to its relative value compared with our gold coin) 
 S10.24, it follows that the "par of exchange" 
 between the two countries is 511 cents per mil- 
 reis ; but, the currency of Brazil being more than 
 one-half composed of Government paper money, 
 this standard cannot be applied to commercial 
 
G08 
 
 Appendix E. 
 
 transactions as a guide, and in the absence of direct 
 exchange transactions with the United States, we 
 must be governed by the rate of exchange on 
 London, which either rises or falls as influenced by 
 the commercial or other vicissitudes of the day. 
 
 The rate of exchange on London being twenty- 
 eight pence per milreis, by taking the value of the 
 pound sterling at $1.S0 cents, the result is fifty- ' 
 six cents as the value of the milreis in United 
 States currency. 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASUKES. i 
 
 The " Marco" is divided into 
 8 Ounces, 
 64 Octaves, 
 192 Scruples, 
 4608 Grains, — which are equal to 354114 Troy 
 p-ains, or 229.400 French grammes, — 83 lbs. Troy 
 weight being equal to 135 " Marcos." 
 
 COMMERCIAL WEIGHTS. 
 The " Aratel," or Round, contains 
 2 Marcos, 
 4 Quartos, 
 16 Ounces, 
 128 Octaves, and 
 9216 Grains, — which are equal to 7082 Troy 
 grains, — 110.729 pounds being equal to 112 lbs. 
 avoirdupois. 
 32 pounds = 1 Arroba = 32% lbs. avoirdupois. 
 4 Arrobas or 128 lbs. (Portug.) = 1 Quintal = 
 129J-< lbs. avoirdupois. 
 13J^ Quintals or 51 Arrobas = 1 ton = 17483^ lbs. 
 avoirdupois. 
 
 DRY MEASURES. 
 
 The "Alqueire" of Bahia, in dailj' use for com, 
 mandioca. &c., contains 2475 cubic inches, equal to 
 1.15 Winchester bushels, and is divided into halves 
 and subdivided into quarters, eighths, &c. 
 
 The " Moio" of Bahia contains 30 alqueires, or 
 " Fangas," as they are called when used for mea- 
 suring lime. The " Moio," therefore, is equal to 
 &4.6 Winchester bushels. 
 
 The " Alqueire" of Rio de Janeiro contains 2322 
 cubic inches, equal to 1.08 bushels. 
 
 (The " Moio" of Lisbon is composed of 15 Fangaa, 
 and each Fanga of 4 Alijueires ; the Lisbon Alqueire 
 contains 824.832 cubic inches ; the Lisbon " Moio," 
 therefore, is equal to 23.02 bushels.) 
 
 LIQUID MEASURE. 
 
 Duties are exacted itt the custom-houses of the 
 Empire on liquids by the " Medida" of Rio de Jar 
 neiro, which contains 1C2.4 cubic inches, 142.241 
 " Medidas," being equal to 100 gallons ; but in the 
 different provinces they are sold by local measure. 
 
 In the province of Bahia, oil, rum, &c. are sold 
 by the Canada of Bahia, which contains 435 cubic 
 inches, equal to 1.883 gallons. — one Canada, there- 
 fore, being nearly equal to Is gallons. 
 
 The '• Canada" is divided into halves and subdi- 
 vided into quarters, called " Quartillos," eighths, &c. 
 
 CLOTH MEASURE. 
 The "Covado" and 
 " Vara." 
 The former is equal to 26.7 inches, and the latter 
 equal to 43.3 inches : each is divided into halves, 
 thirds, quarters, and eighths. 
 
 LONG BIEASURE. 
 12 lines ^ 1 inch. 
 
 8 inches = 1 Palmo. 
 12 inches = 1 P6 or foot. 
 
 5 Palmos = 1 Vara. 
 
 2 Varas = 1 Bra5a. 
 935.276 Bra9as = 1 mile, (Port.) 
 
 3 miles = 1 league. 
 
 18 leagues = 1° of Latitude. 
 
 LAND MEASURE. 
 
 Land in Brazil is bought and sold by the "Ta- 
 refa" of 900 sqiiare Bra9as, or 3600 square Varas, 
 which are equivalent to 4330 (Eng.) square yards. 
 
 The " Geiia" of land in Portugal is considered 
 equivalent to 4840 square Varas, equal tc 5821 
 square yards. 
 
 JVote for ISGG. — The French metrical system is now adopted by law; but the present denominations 
 will doubtless be kept for a long time. The heavy copper money ought to be destroyed, and little 
 coins, like the American three-cent piece, be substituted, so that the immense amount of paper money 
 (like omnibus and ferry tickets) may be abolished. The American Bank Note Engraving Com- 
 pany of New York are now preparing very beautiful new postage-stamps, adorned with the head of 
 the Emperor. 
 
Appendix F. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 Nothing is more difficult to ascertain witli correctness than the population of Brazil. No cersuj 
 of the wliole country lias as yet been taken; and when we see it stated from " official documents," it 
 means nothing more than conjecture and approximation. I believe that the population of Brazil is 
 not far from nine millions. Thomas J. Adamson, Esq., United States Consul at Pernambuco, a careful 
 collector of statistics, gives, in 1864, the latest estimated population of Brazil at more than ten 
 millions. I think that his Brazilian authority made the estimate too high. — J. C. F. 
 
 Estimated Population of Brazil, by Thomas J. Adamson, Esq., remamhueo. 
 
 Provinces. 
 
 Free 
 Population. 
 
 Slave 
 Population. 
 
 Proportion of 
 
 Slaves to Free 
 
 Persons. 
 
 Amazonas. 
 
 Para 
 
 Maranham 
 
 Piauhy 
 
 Cearft 
 
 Rio Grande do Norte 
 
 Parahiba 
 
 Pernambuco 
 
 Alagoas 
 
 Serfripe 
 
 Bahia 
 
 Espiritu Santo 
 
 Rio de Janeiro 
 
 Sao Paulo 
 
 Parang 
 
 Pt. Catharina 
 
 Rio Grande do Sul 
 
 Minas 
 
 Goyaz 
 
 Matto Grosso , 
 
 Total 
 
 Grand total 
 
 68,000 
 300,000 
 330.000 
 200,000 
 504,000 
 200.000 
 2.50,000 
 
 1,040.000 
 250.000 
 2-20,000 
 
 1,100.000 
 ."iCOOO 
 
 1,000,00.) 
 
 TOJ.OOO 
 
 80,000 
 
 1.^.5.000 
 
 380,000 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 205,000 
 
 95,000 
 
 8,."507,000 
 10,014,000 
 
 1,000 
 20,000 
 70.000 
 20,000 
 36,000 
 25,000 
 30,000 
 
 260,000 
 50,000 
 .')5,000 
 
 300.000 
 15.000 
 
 400,000 
 80.000 
 20,000 
 15,000 
 40,000 
 
 260,000 
 
 15,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 1,707,000 
 
 1 to 68 
 1 to 15 
 1 to 4.714 
 1 to 10 
 1 to 14 
 1 to 8 
 1 to 8.137 
 1 to 4 
 
 Ito 
 1 to 
 Ito 
 
 5 
 4 
 3.666 
 
 1 to 3.333 
 1 to 2.500 
 
 1 to 
 1 to 
 1 to 
 1 to 
 1 to 
 
 8.750 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 9.500 
 
 4.800 
 
 1 to 13.666 
 1 to la 
 
 THE YELLOW FEVER OF BRAZIL. 
 ^Written for '• Brazil axd the Brazilians" by A. R. Egbert, M.D.) 
 
 In a publication like the present, any elaborate medical disquisition on the j'ellow fever of Brazil 
 would be obviously misplaced ; yet in a work upon that country a brief sketch of this disease seems 
 necessary. 
 
 Owing to the peculiar situation of the Brazilian Empire, any one unacquainted with the country 
 would naturally suppose that it would abound in those causes which, in all tropical countries, are so 
 inimical to the lives of strangers. This is not the case, but exactly the reverse. Lying immediately 
 under "the Line," Brazil is, for its situation, singularly mild and healthful. Its climate is delightful, 
 and, along the coa.st especially, is tempered by a cool and never-failing breeze; while, in the interior, 
 the elevation of the country compensates for its proximity to the Equator, — thus proving that climate 
 must never be judged by latitude alone. All these things go to show why BrazU has been so free from 
 the ravages of that ■' terrible scourge," the yellow fever. 
 
 Like all other epidemics, yellow fever hides its origin in the mists of the past. These giant devasta- 
 tors of nations have had no chroniclers to record their birth and early history. Some physicians 
 imagine they can find this fever described in the writings of Hippocrates; but they forget that the 
 peculiar symptoms on which they rely to establish the identity — black vomit and yellowness of the 
 
 39 609 
 
610 Appendix F. 
 
 skin — are by no means peculiar to the disease in question. Tlie prevalent opinion among those whc 
 have investigatod the subject is tliat the disease is of modern origin ; and some facts se<-m to connect 
 it with tlie slave-trade. It certainly made its appearance simult;ineously with that traltic, aud some 
 of our Southern physicians are convinced that it, like the blacks, was imported from Africa. 
 
 As far as our knowledge extends, Pdre Dutertre is the earliest writer who can be said to have alluded 
 to this '-frightful scourge of the warmer shores of the Atlautio." lie saw it in 1635, in the Antilles, 
 and expressly tells us that before that time it was unknown in those islands. In 1647 it was in Barbar 
 does. Pere Labat found it raging at Bliirtiniiiue in 1049. TVe earliest period at which this epidemic 
 occurred in the territory of the United f tatef was i-i liiSn, at Hoston. Since then it has been, unfor 
 tunatoly, too well known to our ancestors over the whole Atlaniic coivst. 
 
 It first appeared in Brazil in December, 1849, or January. 1850, and committed its greati st ravages 
 in 1850. in the maritime provinces. It was especially violent at Par4, Bahia, and Rio de Janeiro. 
 Pernambuco escaped. Bad as it was, the accounts of its ravages were greatly exaggerated. In the 
 whole Knijiire of Brazil, the population of which is. more than seven millious, there were from this 
 disease, in 1850, in fourteen thousand deaths ; and, according to the official reports, there were not 
 quite four thousand deaths from yellow fever in the city of Kio de Janeiro, — whose population is three 
 hundred thousand. Dr. Paulo Candido and Dr. Murrilles, who stand deserveilly high in the medical 
 profession, corroborate this statement. Dr. Lallemant, an eminent German physician of the first pro- 
 fessional ability at Rio exaggerates, it seems to us. both the number of cases and deaths: the former 
 he places at one hundred thousand, and the' latter at ten thousand,— which seems to be utterly at 
 variance with the statement of all the rcjiorts from other and equally credible sources. But, even 
 admitting Dr. Lallemanfs figures, we can see how much less w.as the mortality than at New Orleans, 
 (a city of one-thircl the population of Rio.) where in the month of Augiist, 1853, 52e9 perished from this 
 fell disease. And yet it has been represented that the capital of Brazil is the most unhealthy place in 
 the world! According to Dr. Lallemant, 475 died at Rio in 1851 ; 1943 in 1S52: 853 in 1S£3; and only 
 four in 1854. In 1S57 a few scores of cases occurred, but we have not the exact number at hand. 
 
 In 1854 the disease had entirely disappeared, and has not since shown itself until in the beginning 
 of 18.j7, and in the month of March of that year it ceased. 
 
 There is little doubt that the cause of yellow fever is peculiar and specific. But great diversities of 
 opinion exist upon the nature of this cause. Some consider it to be a living, organized, microscopic 
 being, and others regard it as a species of ferment. Strong reasons are adduced in favor of both theories ; 
 but nothing is positively and definitely known of the nature of the cause. 
 
 As to whether the disease be contagious or not, authorities are divided. But it is now beginning to 
 be generally conceded that it is not contagious; and the burden of proof is certainly in favor of this 
 view of the subject. 
 
 Yellow fever exhibits a great diversity of phenomena, occasioned by a variety of infl\iences, — 
 assuming the particular form in accordance with the circumstances of its appearance, — scorbutic, 
 typhous, or whatever the case may be. 
 
 [The symptoms are then desci-ibed. The writer thus continues: — ] 
 
 These symptoms generally last from a few houis to three days, when they siibside, leaving the 
 patient cheerful and hopeful. But this is a delusive calm, and continues from a few hours to twenty- 
 four. Then set in debility and prostration. In severe cases the weakness is extreme : the pulse is quick, 
 irregular, and feeble ; the skin is yellow, orange, or of a bronzed aspect ; the blood appears to be nearly 
 stagnant in the capillaries, and the dependent and extreme parts of the body become of a dark pur- 
 plish hue. The tongue is now often brown and dryish in the centre, or smooth, red, and chapped ; 
 and sordes occasionally collects about the gums and teeth. The stomach resumes its irritability, and 
 the black vomit appears. The bowels often give way and discharge large quantities of black matter, 
 Bimilar to that ejected by the stomach, — and occasionally hemorrhage takes place from various parts 
 of the body ; low delirium sets in ; an offensive odor sometimes exhales from the whole body ; the 
 eyes become sunken and the countenance collapsed, and death takes place, often quietly, but some- 
 times in the midst of convulsions. 
 
 Occasionally patients will die of yellow fever without either the black vomit, yellowness of the skin, 
 or hemorrhage appearing. 
 
 Instead of pursuing this fatal course, the system very often reacts after the period of abatement, 
 and a secondary fever sets in, which may be of various grades of violence. It continues a varialile 
 length of time, — sometimes speedily terminating in health, and sometimes runniiig into a typhoid 
 form, which may last, with various results, for two or three weeks or more. In severe cases the con- 
 valescence is always extremely tedious, and the patient is often incommoded by obstinate and unhealthy 
 sores or abscesses in various parts of the body. 
 
 In some cases the animal functions seem to be at first almost untouched. The patient may be walking 
 In the streets and nothing call attention to his case, unless, it may be, an unusual expression of counte- 
 nance. Upon his pulse being examined, it is found to be exceedingly feeble, if not quite alsent at the 
 wrist. Bla- k vomit aud death speedily ensue. These have been called "walking cases." 
 
Appendix F. 611 
 
 The modes of treatment are many and widely different. — sometimes none of tlie slightest nse. 
 
 [As tlie treatment of yellow fevei- in the United States is within the reach of all, it has been thought 
 best to omit meution of it here, and only to insert Dr. Egbert's account of the Brazilian methtid as 
 laid down by one of the first physicians of the Kmpire. — J. C. F.] 
 
 The prevention of tlie disease is of course even more important than its treatment. Individuals 
 who are unable to leave the place where the disease prevails should select a residence in the highest 
 and healthiest spots; should sleep in the highest parts of the house; should avoid the night-air; 
 should abstain from fatiguing e.xeroise, exposure to alternations of temperature, and excesses of all 
 kinds; should endeavor to maintain a cheerful and confident temper; should use nutritious and 
 wholesome but not stimulating diet; and, if compelled to enter any spot where the atmosphere is 
 known to be infected, should take care not to do so when the stomach is empty or the body exhausted 
 by perspiration or fatigue. 
 
 According to the best medical authorities in the United States, attempts to guard against this disease 
 by low diet, bleeding, purging, or the use of mercury, are futile. — if not worse; for they weaken the 
 system, and the weaker the system the less is it able to resist the entrance of the poison, or its influence 
 when absorbed. 
 
 The following mode of treatment is that recommended and pursued by Dr. Paulo Candido, of Rio, 
 and was under him eminently successful. 
 
 " The first step is to cleanse the digestive canal. Castor oil, in a dose of two, four, or even six ounces, 
 must be admistered without delay, whatever be the state of the patient. If he obstinately rejects this 
 remedy, employ citrate of magnesia or neiitral salts in sufficient quantity to ])roduce eight evacua- 
 tions. This effect ought to be kept up the succeeding days, but with greater moderation. Neither 
 foreign substances nor intestinal secretions ought to be allowed to remain : they become the centres of 
 poisonous matter. The torpor of the intestines does not allow us to trust wholly to purgatives : it is 
 necessary to administer injections, and I make use of the following mixture : — 
 
 " Di . — Expressed juice of Persicaria. cut up and steeped in water 2 lbs. 
 
 Lemon-juice (skin and pulp cut and squeezed) 4 oz. 
 
 Sulphate of Soda i " 
 
 Socotrine Aloes 4 " 
 
 Camphor, and Sulphate of Quinine, each 1 drachm. 
 
 M. — Saturate witli kitchen salt. 
 Q. S. for two or three enemas. 
 "If persicaria cannot be obtained, it may be replaced by the same quantity of infusion of chamomile, 
 orangi!-leaves, or sea-water. 
 
 "These injections must be given every two hours, as hot as possible: they are rejected immediately, 
 but are usually followed by an abundant perspiration; but the use must be continued. 
 
 " Hot siiiaiiisins at the soles of the feet, tlie knees, and tlie thighs, ought to be eni])loyed from the first, 
 coiyointly with the above remedies, and repeated until some abatement of fever ensues. 
 
 "Friction all over the body, particularly on the abdomen, groin, armpits, arms, with the follo\\ing: — 
 
 " IX . — Camphorated Vinegar lib. 
 
 Sulphate of Quinine 2 drachms. 
 
 Tincture of Quinine 2 oz. 
 
 Creosote 1 drachm. 
 
 M. 
 "A drachm of creosote in half a pound of spirits of wine, to rub the abdomen, arms, and sides, is an 
 excellent means of provoking perspiration and producing other effects. Tliese frictions must be per- 
 formed under the coverings of the bed, in order not to chill the patient, and must be continued for three 
 or four hours. Besides their antiseptic action, they produce perspiration. 
 
 "A weak infusion of borage, sweetened, every hour, very hot, each Infusion prepared at the time 
 of being taken ; or of hot gnm- water. 
 
 "If tlie perspiration cannot be effected in two or three hours, we must have recourse to the tincture 
 of aconite napel, (monk's-hood,) one drachm of, in two pounds of water, to take by spoonfuls every 
 qtiarter of an hour, without interrupting the other means. 
 
 " Besides, in four hours after the evacuants have been administered, the use of interior chloride 
 must commence : — 
 
 " IX . — Eau de Labarraque 2 drachms. 
 
 Distilled water, slightly acidulated with Muriatic Acid 14 bottle. 
 
 M.— 
 "Take three sjioonfuls of this mixture in half a cup of fresh water, or simply a spoonfiil of Eau de 
 Labarraque in a glass of pure water, and take a spoonful of this solution every quaiter cr half hour. 
 
 "Sugar must never be added to Eau de Labarraque. It must be saturat' d with chloride, which is 
 easily known by the smell, and kept out of the light. 
 
612 
 
 Appendix F. 
 
 " For verj' delicate persons the dose must be weaker. All these means must he continuous : they do 
 not contradict each other. 
 
 •'At the end of twenty-four hours, the malady is <ipnerally subdued; but the medicaments must not 
 cease, hut the employment of them relaxed or the intervals augmented. 
 
 '• Kelapses, and that deceitful calm that is so often noticed preceding death, take place from the 
 abdominal secretions having been permitted to be reabsorbed. Therefore the medicaments must be 
 continued. 
 
 " I permit no broth, oranges, wine, or any thing else, until two days after the symptoms havo 
 disappeared and when the pulse has lowered perhajjs to forty. 
 
 "1 have often had recourse to sialagogues for the secretion of saliva: these are such substances as 
 ginger, cinnamon, liquorice-root, kept in the mouth. I advise amateurs to smoke cigiirs. 
 
 "Tonics, especially the preparations of quinine, are very useful in small repeated doses when oidy 
 weakness remains. 
 
 " I ought to add, that if the terrible symptom of suppression of urine takes place, I give to the 
 patient a drachm of nitrate of potash dissolved in a bottle of water, — half a cupful every half or cjuarter 
 of an hour; injections of an ounce of camphorated vinegar in two cupfuls of tejiid water; frictions of 
 the same vinegar or camphorated oil of almonds on the abdomen repeated at short inten'als. 
 
 " I have no faitli in bleeding, leeches, cui)ping, calomel, quinine internally, ammonia, laudanum, 
 opium, arsenic, turpentine, nitrate of silver, ice, hot or cold baths, Ac," 
 
 The treatment of Dr, Paulo Candido diflers very materially from that pursued by the prominent 
 physicians of the United States, It also differs from that pursued in the AVest Indies, The reason of 
 this is, I presume, owing to the different character of the disease in Brazil. The yellow fever first 
 appeared in Brazil on the 2Fth of December, IS-tS, and remained in the country from that time until 
 March, 1854 ; in December, '57 it reappeared in a milder form, and in April disappeared. 
 
 The following is a schedule, from official records, of the number of deaths in the Empire and in the 
 Capital, (where it was the most severe,) separately, during each year : — 
 
 
 Pupulatiou, 
 
 Deaths Id 1850. 
 
 Deaths Id 
 
 1H61, 
 
 Deaths io 
 l»o2. 
 
 De.iths ID 
 1863. 
 
 Deaths in 
 ISM. 
 
 Kmpire. 
 
 Kio de Janeiro. 
 
 7,000,000 
 300,000 
 
 14.000 
 
 . 3827 
 
 8719 
 475 
 
 9527 
 1943 
 
 8531 
 853 
 
 04 
 
 This table shows thai tlie disease was comparatively light, the percentage being small. 
 
 The following is an extract from the " Report of the Minister of the Empire" for 1855. 
 
 " The yellow fever, as an epidemic, may be considered nearly extinct in tliis city, (liio,) This benefit 
 is particularly owing to the very vigilant sanitarj' policy that has been established. The great number 
 of ships from all parts of the world which frequent this port has ever been the great focus of infection 
 for this and other epidemics, 
 
 '• Happily, this has been combated by the disinfecting measures that have been resorted to, and by 
 the prompt .succor that has been rendered to the afflicted crews, who, as soon as the epidemic sliows 
 itself, are conducted in the steamer (health-steamer) to the maritime hospital of .lunijnba, where they 
 receive the most judicious and careful treatment. This hospital merits all praise. During the past 
 year there entered 1027 patients, (not all yellow fever:) cured, 1576; died, 40. Therefore the mortality 
 was less than '2]A per ceat." 
 
 The origin of this pestilence in Brazil is a mooted point, and has given rise to the most conflicting 
 views among the best observers: for example, Dr, Pennell. of Rio, and Dr. Patterson, of Bahia, enter- 
 tain precisely onjjosite opiniims, — the former contending for the indigenous, the latter for the foreign, 
 origin of the disease ; and both offer cogent arguments and striking facts in support of the opposite 
 conclusions. 
 
 The scope of this paper does not admit of medical discussion; yet, as the facts observed bj* Dr, Pen- 
 nell are higlily important, and, as his conclusions entirely coincide with those of Dr, Dundas, a short 
 sketch of them will be given. 
 
 They state that for some years the fevers of the country had been clearly changing their character, 
 and the genuine remittent had been little seen for three years; that it was replaced in 1847, '48, and 
 '49, by a fever of^its own chiss, popularly known as the "Polka fever," but in reality a remittent; 
 and that this fever was, in its turn, superseded by the yellow fever, a disease with similar features. 
 
 Coincident with these and other changes in the iliseases of Brazil, the climate in its broad features 
 had altered strangely. Thunder-storms— formerly of daily occurrence at a certain hour, so that 
 appointments for business or pleasure were made in reference to them as to taking jilace ''before" oi 
 '■after' the shower during the summer — are now but seldom heard. There was, too. at the commence- 
 ment and during the continuance of the pestilence, a stagnation and want of elasticity in the atmosphere, 
 Irom the cessation to a great degree of the fresh and regular winds from the sea, — a change very per 
 ceptible and veiy ojjpressive. 
 
 I 
 
Appendix F. 613 
 
 Tlie snpportersof the theory of the foreign origin of yellow fever insist that it was imported liy a certain 
 eb>p from New Orleans to Bahia, (some say to Periiambuco,) and thence ditl'used throughout the Empire. 
 Some of them urge that it was imported from Africa by slave-ships, whilst the fa-ts adiiuced by Dr. 
 Pennell go far to establish, as already stated, its indigenous parentage. Dr. Dundas says that in support 
 of this opinion we have the strong additional fact that for the last forty years there has e.\itited, uncon- 
 trolled by any efficient quarantine-laws, an extensive intercourse with the United States, Africa, and 
 the West Indies, — the very hotbeds of yellow fever, — and yet up to 1S49 Brazil remained perfectly 
 heiilthy. Can we then in reason believe, if the disease be deemed really importable, that the maritime 
 cities of Brazil could, under such circumstances, have escaped infection for a period of forty years ? Though 
 it is usual to say that no epidemic has visited Brazil, yet several of the older writers, as Bocha Pita iu 
 1666, P6re Labat in 16S6, and Fereira da Rosa in 1694, have recorded the appearance of epidemics closely 
 resembling the yellow fever, which, after persisting for some years, and desolating some of the large 
 cities on the coast, finally passed away. 
 
 Drs. Pennell and Dundas conclude, from the above and other facts, that the yellow fever, which 
 recently afflicted Brazil, is not an imported disease, but owes its origin to certain obscure atmospheric 
 disturbances, embracing variations of temperature, hygrometric influence, electrical tension, atmospheric 
 pressure. &c.: and, judging from the previous history of Brazil, we believe that these unfavorable con- 
 ditions are but temiiorary : and we are rejoiced to be able to hope that the disease has nearly passed 
 away, that Brazil will maintain its character of unparalleled salubrity among the tropical regions of 
 the globe, and will deserve its title of '• the Italy of the New World." 
 
 The following statements will show the greater healthfulness of Brazil as compared with the United 
 States. 
 
 In 1S47, in New Orleans, there were 2252 deaths from yellow fever. The popidation was about 90.000. 
 
 In 1853. there were, from May 26 to October 22, 8406 deaths from the yellow fever. The population 
 of the city was more than 100,000; but, owing to so many having fled, it wiis estimated that not more 
 than 50,000 people were in the city during the prevalence of the epidemic. 
 
 In 1854. there were nearly 14,000 cases of yellow fever in New Orleant; from July 14 to October 15, 
 there were 2420 deaths from this cause, The population was about 102,000. 
 
 In Mobile, during the year 1853, there were, from August 1 to September 16, 611 deaths from yellow 
 fevev. Population of the city, 12,500. 
 
 In Natchez, in 1853, there were, from July 17 to September 20, 263 deaths from yellow fever. Popu- 
 lation, 5000, of which only 2000 remained in the city. 
 
 In Charleston, in 1854, there were from fifteen to twenty deaths daily during the height of the disease. 
 Population, 29,000. 
 
 In Galveston, in 1854, there were from fourteen to fifteen deaths daily. Population, 7000. 
 
 In Savannah, during the year 1854, from August 23 to October 17, there were 919 deaths from yellow 
 fever. Population, 11,000. Three-fourths of the population fled to the country: the roads a few miles 
 from the city were iine<l with tlie tents of the fugitives. 
 
 In general, it hag been found that from one-half to two-thirds of the population flee from the cities 
 in the United States when any severe epidemic prevails; and this must be born in mind whilst reading 
 the above data. 
 
 In the terrible scourge at Norfolk and Portsmouth, Va., in 1855, 45 per cent, of the whole popula- 
 tion died from j'ellow fever. The city was nearly deserted, there being scarcely a sufticient number to 
 take care of the sick. The duration of the disease was one hundred and twenty-seven days. 
 
 Now. compare tliese data with the table before mentioned, and we immediately see the comparative 
 immunity of Brazil from the yellow fever even during its most fatal visits. Under such circumstances 
 further ciimments, so far as comparison with the United States is concerned, are useless. 
 
 It is very probable that the mildness of the climate may have exerted a greatly modifying influenr* 
 upon the disp;ise, rendering it less severe and less fatal. 
 
 In writing the above article we do not profess to have done any thing more than to have mads 
 a mere compilation from dilferent authorities and arranged them to suit our purpose. We therefore, 
 whatever may be the merit of the iiroduction, disclaim all originality. 
 
 The authorities we have been enabled to consult, and from which we have drawn our maUrid, are as 
 f illows. — 
 
 Medical News and Library for 1853 and 1854. 
 
 Dr. WoDil's Practice of Medicine. 
 
 New Orleans Medical and Surgical Journal for 1853. 
 
 Report of the Minister of the Empire of Brazil. 
 
 Harper's New Monthly Magazine, 1857. 
 
 Sketches of Brazil, (a medical work.) by Robert Dundas, M.D., Supt. of the British Ilaspital at Bahia, 
 
 Cunseils contre la propagation de la fievre jaune, by Dr. Paulo Candido, Pio de Janeiro. 
 
 And the Keport of Dr. Lallemant, of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
Appendix G. 
 
 The following staterreut shows the annual 
 aggregate imports into Jirazil from foreign coun- 
 tries, in cuntos de reis. (A couto = £112 10s. 
 excli. 27 rf. per ISOOO.) 
 
 1840-41.. .57,727 
 1811-42. ..56.010 
 1842-43.. .50,a39 
 184;i-44...5S.28;J 
 1844-45...57,228 
 
 1815-46.. .52,193 
 1846-47. ..55,740 
 1847-48...47,349 
 1S4S-49... 51,569 
 1849-50... 59,165 
 
 1850-51. ..76,918 
 1S51-52... 92,800 
 1852-53... 87 ,336 
 1863-54.. 84,^&3 
 1854-55...84,7S0 
 
 Annual statement of exports from Brazil, from 
 1841 to 1855. (In contos de reis.) 
 
 1840-41...41,670 
 1841-12. ...39,084 
 1S42-43... 41,039 
 1S4:;-14... 43,800 
 1844-16... 47,054 
 
 184.5^6... 53,630 
 1846-47...62,449 
 1847-48... 67,926 
 1848-49... 66,7 89 
 1849-50. ..55,032 
 
 1850-51...67,7&8 
 1851-52. ..66,640 
 1852-53...73,644 
 1853-54...76,843 
 1854-55...UO,570 
 
 Statement of principal exports in four periods of five years each, and in lS63-61f 
 The Canada is nearly two gallons; the arroba, 32| lbs. avoirdupois. 
 
 Rum 
 
 Cotton 
 
 Rice 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Hair 
 
 Cac.io 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Hidfs, salted... 
 
 Ilides, dry 
 
 bianiond.-s 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 India-Rubber.. 
 
 Mate 
 
 Gold (bullion). 
 Sars.iparilla.... 
 
 canadas 
 arrobas 
 
 number 
 arrolia 
 (litavas 
 arrobas 
 
 oitavas 
 ariolias 
 
 1st Period. 
 
 1844-5 to '48-9. 
 
 Average. 
 
 2,709,669 
 
 714,959 
 
 291,262 
 
 7,591,«85 
 
 31,740 
 
 190,203 
 
 7,873.952 
 
 680,028 
 
 675,283 
 
 632 
 
 326,343 
 
 38,336 
 
 254,474 
 
 194,f.08 
 
 3,469 
 
 2d Period. 
 
 1849-50 to '53-4. 
 Average. 
 
 2,651,8::0 
 956,237 
 256,865 
 
 8,652,262 
 47,0S1 
 276,606 
 
 8,850,1S3 
 512,078 
 533,663 
 6,3&t 
 499,204 
 105,781 
 404,221 
 195,756 
 5,003 
 
 3d Period. 
 
 1863-4 to '57-5 
 Average. 
 
 2,847,935 
 979,365 
 
 7,765,695 
 44,637 
 223,058 
 11,224,544* 
 
 498,884 
 448,498 
 
 548,504" 
 
 143,130 
 
 461,962 
 
 75,401 
 
 4th Period. 
 
 1858-9 to '62-3. 
 
 Average. 
 
 2,313.782 
 846,934 
 
 "'8,'364,9'l8" 
 40,381 
 273,746 
 10,933,697* 
 
 634,454 
 369,748 
 
 '693,126" 
 
 161,380 
 549,615 
 370,8f6 
 
 1,784,993 
 1,297,228 
 
 7,941,310 
 62,786 
 284,190 
 
 8,183,293* 
 764,:!36 
 445,625 
 
 "907 ,21 8 
 
 232,288 
 
 719,069 
 
 31,898 
 
 * Average lor these two periods is much affected by the partial destruction of the coffee-trees by an 
 insect in 1861-62. In the year 1860-61 there was the greatestcrop ever raised in Brazil. It amounted 
 to 14,585,268 arrol)as. In "the year 1866 no less than 9,584,611 arrobas of coffee were exported from Kio 
 and Santos alone: so that there is a great gain on 1863-64. 
 
 Sialement of principal imports in four periods of fioe years each, and the year ISGSSli- 
 
 Cotton (manufactured) 
 
 Wool... " 
 
 Linen.. " 
 
 Si.k " 
 
 Mixed.. " 
 
 Wines 
 
 Flour (Wheat) 
 
 Hardware 
 
 Salt Fish 
 
 Crockery, porcelain, and cut glasses., 
 
 Specie 
 
 Salt 
 
 Butter 
 
 Machinery 
 
 Drugs 
 
 Tea 
 
 Copper 
 
 Coal 
 
 Furniture 
 
 Ar7iis 
 
 Boots and Shoes., 
 Beef and Pork .... 
 
 Oil 
 
 Spirits, distilled.. 
 Powder 
 
 6M 
 
 Avernge. 
 1844-45 to 
 1 848-49. 
 
 Value in 
 
 Contos. 
 
 16,781 
 
 2.926 
 
 1,905 
 
 1,287 
 
 1.571 
 
 3,058 
 
 3,457 
 
 2,193 
 
 1.212 
 
 932 
 
 2,050 
 
 796 
 
 1,186 
 
 213 
 
 467 
 
 277 
 
 398 
 
 642 
 
 163 
 
 206 
 
 314 
 
 750 
 
 608 
 
 400 
 
 241 
 
 Average. 
 1849-50 to 
 1853-54. 
 
 Value in 
 
 Contos. 
 
 26,446 
 
 4,821 
 
 2,510 
 
 1,892 
 
 2,222 
 
 3,321 
 
 4,:«0 
 
 3,256 
 
 1..5S4 
 
 1,403 
 
 6,929 
 
 687 
 
 1,394 
 
 242 
 
 724 
 
 404 
 1,008 
 115 
 .316 
 329 
 
 566 
 
 467 
 330 
 
 Average. 
 1843-51 to 
 1857-58. 
 
 Value in 
 Contos. 
 30,350 
 6.116 
 2,638 
 2,730 
 4,127 
 3,145 
 5,496 
 4,371 
 2,867 
 1,880 
 7,686 
 
 853 
 1,571 
 
 277 
 1,094 
 
 1,458 
 
 696 
 890 
 
 Average. > 
 1858-59 to 1F6.3-64. 
 1862-63. , 
 
 Value in 
 Contos. 
 30,501 
 4.963 
 2,616 
 2,865 
 2,670 
 4,608 
 7,679 
 6,167 
 2,773 
 1,712 
 4,376 
 1,026 
 2,149 
 796 
 1,456 
 
 2,540 
 
 1,014 
 1,661 
 
 Value in 
 Contos. 
 23,970 
 4,401 
 2,992 
 2,350 
 2,735 
 5,632 
 4,142 
 4,797 
 1,383 
 1,462 
 19,P,07 
 1,326 
 1,940 
 621 
 1,498 
 
 1,833 
 
 1,122 
 1,665 
 
Appendix G. 
 
 615 
 
 The importation of Brazil in three periods was 
 made by the principal importers as follows : — 
 
 Great Britain & Possessions 
 
 France and Possessions 
 
 Portuijal and Possessions ... 
 
 Spain and Possessions 
 
 United States 
 
 Hanseatic Cities 
 
 River La Plata 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Chile 
 
 Sardinia (Italy after 1860) .. 
 
 Austriii, 
 
 Others 
 
 1841-5 
 
 1854-5 
 
 contos 
 
 contos 
 
 30,50.3 
 
 45,450 
 
 7,4 n 
 
 9,978 
 
 4,552 
 
 6,46S 
 
 737 
 
 1,230 
 
 5,703 
 
 6,9ai 
 
 2,725 
 
 4,884 
 
 1,711 
 
 4,217 
 
 868 
 
 1,671 
 
 92 
 
 1,128 
 
 328 
 
 755 
 
 475 
 
 2eo 
 
 2,093 
 
 1,648 
 
 57,228 
 
 84,780 
 
 contos. 
 
 64,838 
 
 23,110 
 
 6,346 
 
 2,250 
 
 6,259 
 
 5,453 
 
 9,062 
 
 1,805 
 
 146 
 
 2,222 
 
 The exports of Brazil were made 
 To 
 
 Great Britain & Possessions 
 
 France and Possessions 
 
 Portugal and Possessions... 
 
 Spain and Possessions 
 
 United States 
 
 Hanseatic Cities 
 
 River La Plata 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Chile 
 
 Sardinia (Italy after I860)... 
 
 Austria 
 
 Others 
 
 1844-5 
 
 contos 
 11,306 
 2,462 
 4,216 
 
 697 
 9,210 
 4,844 
 2.427 
 1,612 
 
 165 
 1,072 
 3,125 
 5,91N 
 
 1854-5 1863-4. 
 
 contos 
 
 29,274 
 
 8,172 
 
 4,649 
 
 877 
 
 23,807 
 
 6,675 
 
 4,175 
 
 2,783 
 
 1,479 
 
 1,217 
 
 1,624 
 
 5,838 
 
 47.054 90,570 129,470 
 
 contos. 
 
 52,485 
 
 17,060 
 
 6,662 
 
 4,316 
 
 21,666 
 
 1,184 
 
 4,014 
 
 020 
 
 1,188 
 
 565 
 
 764 
 
 18,946 
 
 N.B.— A conto of reis (1000$) = £112 lOs. 
 
 Flour exported from the United States to Brazil. 
 
 1855-56 386,306 bbls. 
 
 1856-57 498,264 " 
 
 1857-58 531,796 " 
 
 1S58-59 484,355 " 
 
 1S59-60 507,544 " 
 
 1860-61 427,161 bbls. 
 
 1861-62 376,315 " 
 
 186-2-63 410,094 " 
 
 1^6.3-64 410..S62 " 
 
 1864-65 362,066 « 
 
 Total ...1,986,498 
 Average 397,299 
 
 Total ...2,408,265 
 Average 481,653 
 
 Flour formerly paid 3 milreis perbbl. in Brazil, 
 but since 1858 only 900 reis. 
 
 Coffee imported into the United States f rem, Brazil. 
 
 1855-56.. .1,094.838 bags. 
 1856-67. ..1,254,939 " 
 1857-58... 898,421 " 
 185S-59...1,202,190 " 
 1859-60... 979,498 " 
 
 Total 5.429.8S6 
 
 Average.l.0S5,977 
 
 1860-61. ..1,137 ,088 bags. 
 1861-62... 567,146 '• 
 1862-63... 366.908 " 
 1863-64... 674,182 " 
 1864-65... 474,843 " 
 
 Total 3,120.167 
 
 Average. 624,033 
 
 In former times coffee was admitted free into 
 the United States, but now pays a duty of 5 cents 
 a pound, which is a very heavy tax upon it; and it 
 is believed that, if the duty was reduced, coffee 
 would be more largely imported, and the revenue 
 would not suffLT. Brazil should reciprocate such 
 a reduction by removing her export duty. 
 
 The four principal articles of export from Brazil 
 in twenty-four years. Arroba ^ 32 As. 
 
 Cotton. Coffee. Sugar, 
 
 (arrobas.) (arrobas.) (arrobaa.) 
 
 1840-41 691,875 5,059,223 6,698,.39l 
 
 1841-12 639,580 5,.565,325 4.817.577 
 
 1842-43 685,149 5,897,556 5,209^21 
 
 1843-44 814,255 6,294,281 5,682,980 
 
 1844-45 826,445 6,229.277 7,476,286 
 
 1845-46 646,.345 7,034,582 7,110,804 
 
 1846-17 606,882 7,947,753 6,963,960 
 
 1847-48 639^88 9,307,292 7,409,.349 
 
 1848-49 843,416 8,354,840 8,801,616 
 
 1849-50 1,103,314 5,935,817 7,993,986 
 
 1850-51 883,440 10,148,268. 9,907,860 
 
 1851-52 898,250 9,544,858 7,480,099 
 
 18.52-53 997,908 9,923,982 10,681,344 
 
 18.5.3-54 892,27.3 8,698,036 8,258,378 
 
 1864-65...... 869,960 13.027,526 7,951,422 
 
 185.5-56 1,024,801 11,651,806 7,448.582 
 
 1856-57 1,088,025 13,026,299 7,670,430 
 
 1857-58 1,014,550 9,719,054 7,257,758 
 
 18.58-69 7.51,348 11,168.110 10,506,245 
 
 1859-eO 854,624 10,307,293 6,735,070 
 
 1860-61 670,860 14,585,258 tMo1,188 
 
 1861-62 872,210 9,880,924 10,571,970 
 
 1862-63 1,085,628 8,716,836 9,345,371 
 
 1S63-64 1.297,228 8,183,293 7,794,310 
 
 1864-65 *655,374 
 
 * First six months. 
 
 ■f- One portion of the crop in Bahia (one of the 
 largest producers) for 1860-61 has not been ren- 
 dered. The demand for cotton since 1862 baa 
 diminished the production of sugar. 
 
 Estimates of expenditures for 1S66-67. 
 
 Ministry of Empire 5,100 contos. 
 
 " Justice 3,139 " 
 
 " Naw 7,975 " 
 
 War". 14,583 " 
 
 " Foreign Aflaire 848 " 
 
 FiiiJince 18,042 " 
 
 " Agriculture, Public 
 
 Works, & Commerce. 9,185 " 
 
 Total 58,875 " 
 
 Estimated receipts 55,000 " 
 
 Deficit 3,875 " 
 
 The internal funded debt up to March, 1865, was 
 as follows : — 
 
 Contos 78,419. ..at 6 per cent. 
 
 '• l,837...at 5 " 
 
 " 119. ..at 4 " 
 
 Total 80,376 
 
 Debt not converted 466 
 
 Treasury notes in circula- 
 tion 12,400 
 
 Total 93,242 
 
 External debt 70,640 
 
 Grand total 163,882 - £18,337,500 
 
 The Government paper money circulating in 
 Brazil, which in 1855 was 45,000 contos, has been 
 reduced to 29,094 contos. 
 
 [The various tables, with a single exception, of 
 Appendix G were prepared with great care by M. 
 le Chevalier d'Agniar, Brazilian Consul at New 
 York.] 
 
616 
 
 Appendix G. 
 
 The following on the Internal and Foreign Debt of Brazil was published in January, 1866, by 
 
 Henry Nathans, Esq., Broker, at Riode Janeiro. 
 
 INTERNAL DEBT OF BRAZIL. 
 
 Total emission of 6 per cent. Stock 86,752:400$ 
 
 5 per cent. " 1,384:400$ 
 
 4 per cent. " 119:600$ 
 
 88,256:400$ 
 
 Redeemed. 
 
 Of six per cent, emission 3,672:000$ 
 
 •' five " " " 161:200? 
 
 "four" " " $ 3,833:200$ 
 
 Total emission in circulation 84,423:200$ 
 
 In 80,793 Bonds of l.OOCS each 6 per cent 80,793:000$ 
 
 " 885 " " 800$ " 6 per cent 708:000$ 
 
 " 1,577 " " 600$ " 6 per cent 946:200$ 
 
 " 1,683 " " 400$ " 6 per cent 633:200.j 
 
 83,080:40(« 
 
 " 601 " "1:000$ " 5 per cent 691:000$ 
 
 " 487 " " 600$ " 5 per cent 292:000$ 
 
 •' 600 " " 400$ " 5 per cent 240:000$ 
 
 1,223:200$ 
 
 " 113 " "1:000$ " 4 per cent 113:000$ 
 
 » 11 " " 600$ " 4 per cent -. 6:600$ 119:600$ 
 
 84,423:200$ 
 
 Of this amount there are possessed by religious charitable establishments, life-insu- 
 rance companies, &c 17,048:200$ 
 
 which, with the exception of 3 and 4,000:000$, will finally revert to the country: the 
 remainder will only find its way on the market if extraordinary mortality should occur. 
 
 The banks hold either for their own account or hypothecation 851:400$ 
 
 FOREIGN DEBT OF BRAZIL. 
 
 
 Real Value. 
 
 Nominal 
 Talue. 
 
 Redeemed. 
 
 Nominal 
 
 Value in 
 
 Circulation. 
 
 Loan of 1839 
 
 £312,512 
 
 954,260 
 
 508,000 
 
 3,300,000 
 
 1,425,000 
 
 475,000 
 400,000 
 135,000 
 
 £411,200 
 1,040,600 
 508,000 
 3,855,300 
 1,526,600 
 
 I 1,373,000 
 
 £94,400 
 
 170,700 
 
 89,900 
 
 37,800 
 
 248,800 
 
 125,900 
 
 £316,800 
 
 " 1852 
 
 866,900 
 
 " 1859 
 
 418,100 
 
 " 1,S6;} 
 
 3,817,500 
 
 May 19, 1858 
 
 1,277,700 
 
 Mar. 15 1860 
 
 
 
 
 Account of Pernambuco Railroad 
 
 Account of Mucury Colony 
 
 1,247,100 
 
 October 19, 1865 
 
 7,709,762 
 5,000,000 
 
 8,714,600 
 6,943,613 
 
 767,500 
 
 7,947,100 
 6,963,613 
 
 
 £12,709,762 
 
 £15,678,213 
 
 767,500 *£14.910.713 
 
 
 
 
 THE ABOVE WILL F.\LL DOE AS FOLLOWS: 
 
 Loan of 1839 in 1869 emitted at 5 per cent. 
 1852 in 1882 " 4^ 
 
 (a) 1859 in 1879 " 5 " 
 
 (6) 1858 in 1888 " 4i " 
 
 (c) 1860 in 1890 " 4i " 
 
 1863 in 1893 " 4^ " 
 
 1866 in 1902 " 5 " 
 
 (a) In 1859 the loan of 1829 matured, and, the Bonds being then at par, new Bonds were given in 
 exchange at same price and interest as the old ones. 
 
 (6) and (c) These two loans were raised for the benefit of Dom Pedro II. Railway, Pernambuco 
 Railway, Carri.ige Road of Uuiao e Industria and Mucury Colony. All of these companies, with tha 
 pxctptiou of lbs Pernambuco line, are now Government property; and her quota of these loans is 
 £400,000. 
 
 The amortization of loans herein given is calculated till 1865, and in March, 1866, only, can the 
 exact amount be ascertained. The amortization is as follows : — 
 
 1 per cent, for loans of 1839, 1852, 1859, 1865. 
 
 2 " " " 1858 and 1860. 
 1 65-100 " " 1863. 
 
 * It will be seen that Mr. Nathans makes the grand total of Brazil's indebtedness over six million ponndg 
 Bterling more than Chevalier d'Aguiar, who puts it at £I8,.'«7,')<H). This apparent discrepancy is reconciled by 
 idding the new loan of £5,000,000, made October 19, 1865.— J. C. F. 
 
Appendix H. 
 
 RECENT DISCOVERIES OF COAL IN BRAZIL. 
 
 (From " The Anglo-Brazilian Times," of July 8, 1865.) 
 LETTER FROM PROFESSOR AGASSIZ. 
 
 Our readers are aware that since this illustrious stranger arrived in Rio 
 he has not been for a moment at rest. Whilst his assistants have been, each in 
 his special department, working towards the attainment of the object which they 
 have in view in Tropical America, the professor himself has been the most active 
 of the party, trying to win from Nature the secrets which she holds; and we are 
 informed that many new and interesting facts have been added to the domain 
 of science. 
 
 We have from the outset looked upon this expedition with great interest, in so 
 far as we have seen in it a value lying beyond the fields of pure science. The 
 speculations of the pliilosopher of to-day may to-morrow become the established 
 facts of commerce, and it will be impossible for the investigations of Agassiz to 
 leave behind them only barren results. His labors may in the end yield us a 
 harvest of material wealth: indeed, we have before us at this moment one very 
 pertinent illustration of this fact, which we may assume is but the forerunner of 
 many others of the same kind. 
 
 Our readers have for a long time heard of the famous coal-beds of Candiota, in 
 the province of Rio Grande do Sul. The expectations of many are turned in 
 that direction, as the most valued instance of the hidden wealth of Brazil. Mr. 
 Plant has so far awakened or revived an interest in these tilings, that from time 
 to time the topic has been made a public one, has been regarded as a question 
 for commercial action, and has been debated each time with growing interest in 
 the Legislature. We are not to-day talking of the value of this matter in the 
 abstract: our minds have been long made up •on this subject: we only wish to 
 show how the opinion of a man like Agassiz at once settles the whole question, 
 and leaves only to commerce the practical development of plans for making 
 available this most important element in a nation's wealth and power. 
 
 Mr. Plant, as a geologist, submitted to the examination of the professor such 
 fossils and geological illustrations of the province of Rio Grande do Sul as he 
 supposed would be of interest and would help to complete the collections which 
 are being made for the United States. The importance of these fossils, and 
 the sure deductions which science draws from them, appear to have startled 
 and delighted the great savant; and a ffew days since the following letter was 
 placed in the hands of Mr. Plant. We print it verbatim, as it is of such a 
 nature as to become at once important, and will show the Government of Brazil 
 that if it only follows up the path opened up by science, the results as a source 
 of wealth cannot be doubted. 
 
 617 
 
618 Appendix H. 
 
 "Rio, June 18, 1865. 
 
 "Dear Sir: — I have not yet returned my thanks for the fine specimens you 
 have presented tc me, though ever since I saw them I have looked for a moment's 
 leisure to do so. 
 
 "However, this gives me an opportunity of expressing a more mature opinion 
 concerning their geological age, which I am glad to have an opportunity of 
 recording, especially since the examination I have made of them has satisfied 
 me of the correctness of some views concerning the fossils of the oldest geolo- 
 gical formation, in which I had little confidence. That these organic remains all 
 belong to the Carboniferous period is unquestionable; and it is the close affinity 
 with the characteristic fossils of Europe which particularly interests and in a 
 measure surprises me. Had the whole collection been made in Pennsylvania, I 
 would not more decidedly have recognized its Carboniferous characteristics, down 
 to the rocks underlying and overlying the fossiliferous beds; and the photographs 
 you have shown me of the localities leave no doubt of the great extent and value 
 of the coal-beds proper of the river Candiota, whilst the coal itself may fairly be 
 compared to the best in the market, judging from the specimens you have shown 
 me and those I owe to your kindness. 
 
 "With my best wishes for the further success of your geological explorations, 
 in which I hope you may hereafter also include the Drift and erratics, now that 
 you are satisfied of their existence in Brazil, 
 
 " I remain, 
 
 " Yours, very truly, 
 
 "L. Agassiz. 
 
 "N. Plant, Esq." 
 
 We think our subscribers will join with us in our opinion that we have much 
 to look for from this expedition, fitted out by the munificence of Nathaniel 
 Thayer, Esq., of Boston. It may be that this expedition has been projected with 
 a conviction of the value of science as an agent in commerce. We are sure the 
 indirect results will, for Brazil, be very important. One of the world's greatest 
 minds is breaking in upon a region almost unknown. His aim is, we know, to 
 extend the empire of mind and to storm the stronghold of nature, making her sub- 
 servient to the wants of man; and in parting with Professor Agassiz and his 
 co-laborers for a season, we can but give him our benediction, with the hope that 
 in a few months he will be among us again, rich with treasures from the Amazon. 
 
 We are also at liberty to state that Sr. Capanema, whose abilities as a geologist 
 are too well known to need comment, has seen Mr. Plant's collection of fossils 
 from the Candiota coal-mines, and has arrived at the same conclusion as Professor 
 Agassiz in respect to the coal-beds belonging to the Carboniferous period. 
 
 [So interesting to science and to commerce are these coal discoveries in Rio 
 Grande do Sul, that I asked Mr. Plant to give me full information on this subject. 
 Under date of July 24, 1865, he has forwarded me that which constitutes the 
 remainder of Appendix H. — J. C. F.J 
 
Appendix H. 619 
 
 the coal-fields of the river jaguarao, and its tributa- 
 ries the rivers candiota and jaguarao-chico, in the pro- 
 vince of rio grande do sul. 
 
 The coal-basin of the river Jaguarao is situated in the southern part of the province of Kio Grande 
 do Sul, between lat. 31° and 32° South, and long. 3il° and 326°, (French Meridian,) in the valley of 
 the Jaguarao and its tributaries the rivers Candiota and Jaguarao-chico. It covers an area of about 
 fifty miles by thirty, its greatest diameter being from north to south. The coal strata, which the 
 geological section illustrates, and from whence the accompanying specimens have been obtained and' 
 the thickness of the beds determined, are exposed in an elevated escarpment on the bank of the 
 river Candiota, at a place called "Serra Partida," where they appear in the following order of 
 superposition : — 
 
 The uppermost bed (No. 1) is composed of sandstone of a highly ferruginous nature, resembling 
 in its appearance the "Gres Bizarre" of EiU'ope. It contains nodules of a silicious peroxide of iron, 
 yielding from 25 to 35 per cent, of metal. It varies considerably in its thickness, in some places 
 being completely worn away, and in others attaining a depth of upwards of 200 feet. Immediately 
 below this occurs a bed (No. 2) of coal-shale, very argillaceous, and perhaps unfit for fuel : it possesses 
 a thickness of 9 feet, and can be seen cropping out wherever the superincumbent bed has been de- 
 nuded: it rests upon a bed (No. 3) of sandy oclireous shale, containing spetaiia of an ochreous oxide 
 of iron, which, together with the iron-stone found in the sandstone, will, in all probability, be turned 
 to profitable account when the coal-beds are worked. Underneath this is a bed (No. 4) of bituminous 
 coal, 3 feet thick. The mineral, although it leaves a high percentage of ash, will be found useful 
 in melting the iron-ores from the interstratifying beds; and there is every reason for supposing that 
 it will be found of a better quality when the bed is fairly worked. The samples tested were taken 
 from very near the surface, wliich may in some measure account for its apparent impurity: it rests 
 on a bed (No. 5) of white clay, or schist, containing innumerable impressions of fossil plants (perhaps 
 aquatic), the general appearance of which would lead one to conclude that these Carboniferous de- 
 posits belong to a later period tlian that assigned to the coal-measures of England and the United 
 States, were such a conclusion not confuted. by the fossil ferns found in the otlier interstratifying 
 shales: it has a thickness of 5 feet, and overlies a bed (No. 6) of good coal, 11 feet thick. This coal 
 resembles very much in its appearance the Newcastle, and may be traced for many miles along the 
 banks of the river Candiota, sometimes forming the bed of that river, and of the small streams falling 
 into it; it is separated from another seam by a thin parting of blue clay (No. 7). The coal of the 
 lower bed (No. 8) appears to be even of a better quality than No. 6: it hius a clean, shining fracture, 
 and in some places thin seams of pure cannel coal may be traced along the bed. It is highly in- 
 flammable, boiling up like oil during combustion. This coal has been u.sed as fuel in various ways 
 with marked success. It has been tried on the steamers navigating the "Lagoa dos Patos" in the 
 province of Rio Grande, and although it left a greater portion of ash than the Cardiff coal, it was 
 found to be a good caking coal, and served every purpose of a steam fuel. Below this is another bed 
 (No. 9) of blue clay, containing vestiges of fossil plants. In every thing else it is similar to the upper 
 bed of the same mineral, and has a thickness of 9 feet. It reposes on the thickest seam (No. 10) of 
 coal exposed in the escarpment at the "Serra Partida." This is the lowest bed of coal exposed in any 
 part of the coal-field of Candiota; but in all probability other beds will be found nearer to the centre 
 of the basin, or this, as well as the incumbent beds, may become thicker, judging from the fact that 
 all tlie beds appear to thicken as they approach the middle of the vallej- of the river Jaguarao. The 
 great thickness (25 feet) and the good and homogeneous character of the seam are important features 
 in this coal-field. The mineral (although taken from near the decomposed face of the cliff on the 
 river Candiota) was found to leave even less ash than that from the seam above. It has frequently 
 been used on steamers with the same success as Newcastle coal. The coke obtained from this coal 
 by Mr. W. G. Ginty, of the Kio Gas AVorks, (see Mr. Ginty's report,) was even better than that derived 
 from Newcastle coal. It overlies a bed (No. 11) of ironstone shale, which, in a scientific point of 
 ^iew, s the most important deposit of the coal-measures of the Jaguarilo, from the fact I'f its con- 
 taining impressions of organic remains, by which the geological age of the coal-beds can be determined ; 
 the fossil plants found imbedded in this shale all belong to the same genera as those which charac- 
 terize the coal-fields of Great Britain and the United States, — the most abundant belonging to the 
 genera " Lepidodendron" and "Glossopteris;" others have been recognized as being similar to the 
 ferns found in the very oldest secondary rocks, thus leaving no uncertainty as to the true Carboni- 
 ferous character of the coal-measures of the river Candiota. This seam is very prolific of fossils; and 
 there can be no doubt that when these immense beds of mineral treasure are worked, many new and 
 interesting forms of vegi table life will be brought to light to enrich our knowledge of the coal-fields 
 of the Southern hemisphere. The iron-stone shale is very rich in metal, and will, doubtless, be 
 worked as an iron ore, v,hen the mines are opened. Below this there occurs another bed (No. 12) of 
 sandstone, similar in all respects to the uppermost bed, after which is a bed (No. 13) of fine crystal- 
 
620 
 
 Appendix H. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF STRATA SHOWN ALONG THE fALLEY OF 
 THE CANDIOTA, RIO GRANDE DO SUL. 
 
 ^ Surface. 
 
 V Ferruginous 
 sandstone. 
 
 White fossiliferous 
 sLule. 
 
 > Coal. 
 
 > Parting of blue clay. 
 
 113 Ft. 
 
 > Fossiliferous clay. 
 
 Ironstone shales 
 with fossil ferns. 
 
 Metalliferous lime- 
 stone. 
 
 (■ - 
 
Appendix H. 621 
 
 line lin.estone, containing small fragments of graphite disseminated throughout the mass: it is tra- 
 versed also by veins of a very pure carbonate of lime in the form of double-refracting spar, which in 
 some places attain a considerable thickness. This limestone will not only be of immense value as a 
 calcined lime, but also as a flux in smelting the iron ores. The three things essential for the erection 
 of smelting works are thus found on the same district interstratifying each other, — the ore, the fuel, 
 and the tiu.\, all of the very first quality, — a combination of mineral riches (only waiting for the 
 hand of man to realize them) scarcely to be found together in one spot in any other part of the 
 globe. Evidently, the two lowest beds of these coal-measures are mica-schist tNo. 14), and another 
 limestone rock (No. 16), of a very dark and compact nature. It is scarcely possible to determine 
 which is the lowermost, as in some places the mica-schist is seen lying on the sieuite which surrounds 
 the coal-basin, and in others the limestone: the name of "Metalliferous limestone" has been given 
 it, owing to the innumerable crystals and thin veins of sulphuret of iron which appear in it. In 
 all probability, other metalliferous veins will be found in this limestone. 
 
 Nearly the whole of the coal-basin of the valley of the Jaguarao is enclosed by sienitic hills of 
 from 200 to ;^00 feet high ; the sides towards the coal-field slope gently downwards till they disappear 
 under the sandstone overlying the coal : on the other side, the sienite, after presenting an uneven 
 and undulating aspect for some three or four le.agues, gradually subsides into an even country, which 
 continues on almost perfectly plain till the seaport city of Kio Grande do Sul (S. I'edro) is reached. 
 So that the company already formed for making the survey for a railway to carry the mineral riches 
 of the valley of the Jaguarao down to a seaport, where the coal can be shipped to the different ports 
 along the coast of Brazil and to the river Plate, will find no difficulty in discovering a route along 
 which a cheap line of rails can be laid down. 
 
 The engraving opposite p. 347 (from a photographic view of the different escarpments in which the 
 coal-beds are shown along the river Candiota) will show the great facilities aflorded for working the 
 coal in almost any part ol the basin, by open cuttings. Tram-ways tan be laid down branching off in 
 different directions from the main trunk line, along which the coal-wagons can be run right into the 
 Beams of coal, thereby rendering the sinking of expensive shafts quite unnecessary. 
 
 The general dip of the beds is from 5° to 10° S. W., and in no place are there signs of subsequent 
 upheavals or dislocations of strata visible, so that very little obstruction will be met with in carrying 
 the tram-ways along the seams as the working of them goes forward. 
 
 It is almost uimecessary to dwell upon the immense value of these coal-deposits as a commercial 
 enterprise, when it has been already ascertained, by a " running survey" of the country between the 
 Beaport of Kio Grande do Sul (S. Pedro) and the coal-mines of Candiota, that in all probability the coal 
 will bo delivered on board vessels lying in the port of Ilio Grande at perhaps less than lis. 75^000 
 per ton, where it is at the present moment being sold at Ks. 24;JO00, and as soon as a bill is passed 
 allowing vessels of all nations to trade between the Brazilian ports, there will be no lack of enter- 
 prising ship-owners to carry the Rio Grande coal to Kio de Janeiro, in which port alone the enormous 
 amount of 180,000 tons of coal are annually imported for a price which will enable the coal-mining 
 company to sell the Candiota coal, in the market of the capital of the Brazilian Empire, for about Ks. 
 16$000 per ton, a price which will annihilate any competition Irom foreign markets, seeing that the 
 foreign coal is seldom sold for less than Ks. ■22!f000 per ton. 
 
 The consumption of coal in the river Plate is perhaps as great as that of Kio de Janeiro, and the 
 facilities for supplying the markets of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo from the coal-mines of the 
 river Candiota are still greater than those for supplying Kio. The coal can be sent from the mines, 
 put on board coU.ers, and delivered in Montevideo, in three or four d.ays, at about half the cost of de- 
 livering the same article in Rio, and in a market where coal is never less than fifteen dollars per ton, 
 or Rs. ilOifOOO. The consumption of coal along the Brazilian coast and in the river Plate increases yearly, 
 and in all probability it will be found, after the coal-mines of Candiota have been opened for a few 
 years, that a single line of railway will not be found sufficient to carry the supply of coal to meet 
 the increasing demands. 
 
 lUo DE Janeiro, 20th July, 1865. Nathaniel Plant. 
 
 The Brazilian Coal-Fields, by Edwaed Hull, B.A., F.G.S. 
 
 (Note from the Quarterly Journal [England] op Science, No. II. April, 1S64.) 
 
 The immense empire of Brazil, occupying one-third of the continent of South America, with an 
 area of upwards of 3,000,000 of S(]uare miles; considerably larger than Russia in Europe; watered 
 by the largest river in the world, which, with its tributaries, is navigable for many hundred miles 
 from its mouth; its western bounds stretching to the spires of the Andes, and its eastern washed by 
 the waves of two oceans, — such a country as tliis would appear fitted to occupy the foremost rank 
 amongst the nations of the Western hemisphere, provided its boundless resources were turned to 
 account by an intelligent people, and civilization were advanced by wise laws. 
 
 It is satisfactory to reflect, that while most of the surrounding republics — the shattered limbs of 
 
622 Appi:ndix H. 
 
 Spanish America — are tossed on the waves of anarchy, Brazil enjoys a peaceful government, iinde. h 
 constitutional monarchy; personal freedom, with political security; monarchical principles com- 
 bined with popular rights. We notice these points in the government of Brazil because they afford 
 the highest guarantee of national progress and development of industrial i)ursuits. Nor are the raw 
 materials necessary for the attainment of a high position among the manufacturing communities 
 of the world absent from the soil of Brazil. 
 
 The northern half of the empire is physically not unlike the plain of Northern Italy on a large 
 scale. Covered with forests springing from a rich alluvial soil, and watered by the Amazon and its 
 giant branches, it is prodigiously fertile. The southern half is hilly, and sometimes mouutainous, and 
 gives birth to tlie Rio de la Plata. One of the peaks of the Organ Range rises behind the harbor of 
 Rio de Janeiro to an altitude of 7,500 feet. It was once supposed that this great empire — rich in 
 precious stones and nearly all the metals from gold to iron inclusive— was devoid of one natural 
 product, useful, if not absolutely essential to the full utilization of the other mineral treasures, namely, 
 coal; but such a supposition was altogether erroneous, as recent investigations have fully shown. 
 
 A writer in a recent number of tlie Quarterly Review for 1S60 mentions [in a Review of Brazil and 
 the Brazilians] the existence of a coal-field about forty miles from the sea [in the province of Rio 
 Grande do Sul]. This is all that was known on the subject on this side of the Atlantic, till very 
 recently. 
 
 To a countryman of our own, Mr. Nathaniel Plant, we are Indebted for a full account of the 
 position and resources of three distinct coal-fields which he has recently explored in the southern part 
 of the empire. The largest presents some features of peculiar interest, which we proceed briefly to 
 lay before our readers. 
 
 The first notice of these minerals seems to have been taken by a Mr. Guilherme Bouleich, in the 
 province of pio Grande do Sul. This appears to have been in the year 1859. 
 
 The matter, however, seems to have been lost sight of until the end of 1861, when Mr. N. Plant, 
 who for several years had been examining the mineral districts of Rio Grande do Sul, and other parts 
 of South America, determined to make a fuller exploration of the coal districts: and he has now sent 
 to this country an account of the very remarkable deposits of mineral fuel to be met with, together 
 with those unbiassed witnesses, — photographic views and rock specimens.* 
 
 The Candiota coal-field is the largest of the three which have yet been discovered. It lies between 
 lat. 31° and 32° S., and is thus at the extremity of the province of Rio Grande do Sul. It is traversed 
 by the river Jaguarao and several of its tributaries, along whose banks the seams of coal crop out. 
 There are two great seams of bituminous coal, the lower being 25 feet in thickness, and separated 
 by only a very few feet of shale from the upper bed, (or series of beds, which is 40 feet in thickness.) 
 In some places the intermediate bands of shale which separate the mineral into distinct layers, thin 
 away, in which case a solid seam of no less than 65 feet is formed, unsurpassed, wo believe, in vertical 
 dimensions by any similar formation yet discovered. We have handled specimens of the coal; and, 
 though taken from the outcrop, it is scarcely distinguishable, except bj- a slight brownish hue, from 
 the ordinary coal of our own country. 
 
 The coal strata reposes on a series of shales, sandstones, and crystalline limestones, the whole of 
 which are supported by mica-schist, and finally by sienite. 
 
 Iron is also present, as in the coal-formation of Britain, both in the form of bands of clay-ironstone 
 and as a roof for the seams of coal. At the top of the cliff formed by the outcrop of the coal-seams 
 there occurs a mass of silicious iron-ore several yards thick, a sheet ca.=ting from which, taken by Mr. 
 N. Plant, was exhibited at the late Industrial Exhibition among other Brazilian products. Thus 
 there occur in close proximity to each other the ore, the fuel, the flux and clay necessary for the 
 establishment of iron-furnaces. 
 
 The several minerals thus united rise in the form of an elevated escarpment, which may be traced 
 for several leagues, affording the utmost facility for working by open works, or tunnels driven Into 
 the sides of tlie hills. 
 
 From its base stretches a gently sloping plain of basalt, over which a railway to a port on the Rio 
 Gonsalo might be laid down at a very moderate cost. ********* 
 
 ******************** 
 After an inspection of the fossil plants which have been sent over to this country, there can be no 
 doubt, we think, that these beds belong to the Carboniferous age. Mr. Plant has sent over several 
 pieces of ironstone on which are imprinted very distinct specimens of Lepiilodendron, and several 
 ferns not unlike those of the coal measures of Britain. A gentleman, also, who has studied the coal 
 measures of Nova Scotia, which are of the same age as those of Britain, refers in a letter, which we 
 have seen, to fine specimens of Sigillaria and Stigmaria, both of which are ch.aracteristic of tliis 
 period. Specimens of these, however, we have not seen in the collection we have examim'd: but, 
 nothing can be more distinct than the fronds of Lepidodendron already referred to. While on this 
 
 • These have been laid before the Geological Society, Manchester, by his brother. Mr. S. Plant, Curator of the Rornl 
 Museum, Sairord. 
 
Appendix II. 62S 
 
 s'lbject, we may be allowed to remark that although, on the authority of Professor M'Coy, the ago 
 of the Australian coal-fields was for some time considered to be Jurassic, the recent investigations of 
 the Rev. AV. B. Clarke go to establish the Carboniferous age of these beds. Mr. Clarke has sent to 
 England a collection of fossils from the New South Wales coal-fields, containing specimens of Lepi- 
 dodendron and Spirifer; and thus it would appear that during the same great epoch, so pre-eminently 
 Cnrboniferous, deposits of coal were being elaborated over both sides of the equator, — a marvellous 
 instance of the uniformity of nature's operations in early geologic times. 
 
 The importance of these great deposits of coal to the commerce of the eastern seaboard of South 
 America need not be dwelt upon. At the present time nearly 200,000 tons of coal are annually im- 
 ported into Rio de Janeiro alone, at a cost of forty-nine shillings per ton, and from this depot other 
 coast towns are supplied. When once the coal-fields of Candiota are opened up, the Brazilian Govern- 
 ment may be supplied at nearly half the price, and our own little island be spared the doubtful honor 
 of providing fuel for a continent on the other side of the globe. 
 
 (Signed) Edward Hull. 
 
 Report on the Caxdiota Coal, by W. G. Gintt, Engineer-in-Chief of the 
 Rio de Janeiro Gas Works. 
 
 Mr. Nathaniel Plant: 
 
 Dear Sir: — I have received and examined j-our samples of Brazilian coal from Candiota with great 
 interest, and I am glad to be able to congratulate you on its really good quality. 
 
 The samples you sent me were too small for complete and satisfactory analysis in the apparatus 
 nt my disposal. I found also the samples varied a good deal in ajipearance and quality. This has 
 arisen, no doubt, from their having been obtained from various positions on the nearly perpendicular 
 f vce of the immense stratum, and from variable periods of exposure, as, owing to the crumbling away 
 or disintegration of pieces under the incessant action of the weather, these samples may have been 
 exposed for periods varying from each other as seconds do from centuries. 
 
 The Candiota coal resembles tlie Newcastle steam-coal (which comes to this market, at least) very 
 much in structure, cleavage, and general appearances; nor does it differ very much from Newcastle 
 coal in its useful properties, except that it contains more than double the quantity of ash, which is 
 detrimental to its heating powers; but this objection is likely enough to disappear altogether in 
 bamples from the deeper parts of the mine. 
 
 The coke fr(nn the Candiota coal is, however, very different in appearance from that of the New- 
 c:istte coal, and resembles the coke of (what is sold here as) Cardiff coal in its silvery-colored laminations. 
 
 Some of this Candiota coal, however, especially that of the lower seam, is very friable, and is 
 evidently what is called caking coal (that is, it boils or becomes molten during the process of car- 
 bonization) : however all the qualities of the coke from the Candiota coal are very good. 
 
 As you say the dip or inclination of the seams or strata of this Candiota coal is 5° from the 
 plane of the horizon, I think it most reasonable to presume that a much finer, more compact, and 
 equable quality of coal may be calculated upon at lower depths. 5° is a gradient of 1 in 11.4, or 8.77 
 per cent., or 462 feet per mile. Thus, in such an immense field as you have described to me, there is 
 ample margin for obtaining other than surface coal, which for obvious reasons, in Brazil as elsewhere, 
 cannot be as pure, as compact, or as uniform in quality as that obtained at great depths. I shall 
 v\atcli the prosecution of your explorations in this direction with great interest. 
 
 The following are the result? of my examinations (as far as they went) on the Candiota coal, — the 
 Biimples of Newcastle, Cardiff, and Wigan Cannel, with which it is compared below, having been tried 
 at the same time in the same^apparatus: — 
 
 Specific Per- Illuminating 
 
 Gravity cent. Cubic Feet Power in 
 
 Water, of of Gas Staudard 
 
 1.000 Ci ke. per Ton. Caudles. 
 
 Candiota coal (mean of three qualities) 1.240 63 6,600 5.00 
 
 Do. do. lower seam 1.230 60 8,198 5.80 
 
 Newcastle 1.250 62 
 
 Cardiff.' 1.275 SO 
 
 Gas, or Cannel coal (Case and Morris) 1.240 62 9,600 20.50 
 
 From the appearance of the lower seam, I do not despair of your finding a good gas coal for us in 
 the Candiota district, and thus freeing the Brazilian Gas Companies from the fearful tax they have to 
 pay in the shape of freights from England, amounting to from 200 to 300 per cent, on the value of the 
 materic prima. 1 send you labelled samples of the different qualities of coke above referred to. 
 I remain your obedient servant, 
 
 (Signed) W. G. Gintt, 3tem. Inst. C. K, 
 
 Engineer Eio de Janeiro Gas Company 
 
624 Appendix H. 
 
 THE GOLD-MINES OF NORTHERN BRAZIL. 
 
 Gold is plentifully diffused in veins, lodes, and deposits of auriferous earth throughout the primitive 
 mountain valleys of Northern Brazil. Rivers and streams, laden with water-worn particles of the 
 "precious metal," testify the fact. But, in the absence of capital and skilled labor for its extraction, 
 gold in Northern Brazil is confined to the acquisition of private adventurers or to aboriginal tribes. 
 In South Brazil, in the province of Minas-Geraes, in the vicinity of Sao Joao del Key, the gold mines 
 worked by English companies have proved up to this time the most remunerative in South America. 
 In 1806, that energetic Brazilian Sr. Jaccomo Tasso, of Pernambuco, called the attention of Knglish 
 capitalists to the gold-regions of Parahyba do Norte, and soon after a company was formed under the 
 title of the "Tiisso Brazilian Gold-Mining Company (limited)," having a capital of £200,UU0 (with 
 power to increase), at £5 per share. The officers of the association, who have long been in commercial 
 and other relations v.ith Brazil, are as follows : — CH.iRLES C.vpper, Esq., Merchant, London. Charles 
 S.^b'XDERS, Esq., Merchant of Liverpool and Pernambuco. Charles Barber, Esq., London. William 
 Ceemer, Esq., London. Edward Johnston, Esq., Merchant of London, Liverpool, and Kio. Sebastian 
 Pinto Leite, Merchant of London, Manchester, and Liverpool. Bonami Price, Esq., London, Director 
 of the St. John del Rey Gold Company. 
 
 This company availed itself of the local knowledge and territorial possessions of Sr. Tasso, which 
 are situated in the heart of the gold district of Parahyba, determined to undertake the work of gold- 
 mining in Northern Brazil on a scale and with such approved machinery as shall render the enter- 
 prise one of immediate and great productiveness. In pursuance of this resolution, the company 
 entered into a contract for the purchase of the estates of Sr. Tasso, at Pianco, in the province of Para- 
 hyba, Brazil, (on which estates eight gold-bearing lodes have already been discovered,) and also for 
 exercising the rights of exploration and pre-emption, within the provinces of Parahyba and Pernam- 
 buco, now conceded to that gentleman by the Brazilian Government. An imperial concession for 
 these purposes includes the unexpired right for four years to explore the interior of both provinces for 
 minerals, and to appropriate and work to the extent of 150 "datas,"or about 25,000 acres, eligible 
 either for gold or fur other mining enterprise. 
 
 When the concession was obtained, Mr. William Reay and Mr. Thomas Andrew, surveyors of prac- 
 tical experience in Brazilian gold-mining, were sent from England to Sr. Tasso's estate in the district 
 of Pianco, through which flows one of the affluents of the river Piranhiis. Several rich lodes of gold 
 were traced by them, and portions of the ore assayed with satisfactory results. Notwithstanding the 
 necessary imperfection of such methods as could be adopted on the spot, the result of twenty-six 
 assays gave an average of aljout 16 dwts. 5? grains of fine gold per ton of ore, as taken in each.caso 
 from the surface of the several lodes then traced. The chief of these assays yielded on the average 
 1 oz. 9 dwts. 23 grs. per ton of ore, and five samples obtained from different parts of the '"Boa Espe- 
 ran^a" lode yielded 2 oz. 9 dwts. and 15 grs. of gold per ton. Later " extracts" from the lodes gave 
 even more e.xtraordinary results. Mr. Charles Martin, London, reporting on them, says : — "I send 
 you herewith copy of the assays I have had made of your quartz, which are surprisingly rich, and 
 which would pay enormously if the bulk should prove any thing like the sample." 
 oz. dwt. gra. oz. dwt. grs. 
 
 No. 5 Gold 3 10 12 per ton of 20 cwt. I No. 6 Gold 12 5 15 per ton of 20 cwt. 
 
 Silver 18 " u | Silver 3 15 " " 
 
 Another sample assayed by Messrs. Johnson, Matthay & Co., of London, yielded : — 
 
 Gold 6a50 oz. per ton of 20 cwt. [ Silver 4-350 oz. per ton of 20 cwt. 
 
 In addition to the, " eight lodes" mentioned, two lodes, of a still richer description, are believed to 
 lie near the centre of the estate. The grounds on which investments were recommended were — 
 1st. That the provinces of Parahyba and Pernambuco, over which the rights of the company will 
 extend, contain the richest gold-mines in the empire. 2d. That, besides the lodes of gold, the locality 
 contains an enormous quantity of auriferous ore detached from the lodes, available at comparatively 
 little expense. 3d. That the surface of the land already explored at Pianco is remarkably favorable 
 for mining operations. 4tli. That the neighborhood being populous and fertile, labor is cheap, and 
 supplies of cattle, corn, and other produce are easily obtainable. 5th. That a main road, along which 
 a great part of the cotton exported from Pernambuco is now conveyed, runs through the site of the 
 concession at Pianco. 6th. That Sr. Tasso transfers to tlie company not only his right of exploration 
 and pre-emption throughout the provinces of Parahyba and Pernambuco, and the concession of 
 thirty-six " datas" (equal to about 6000 acres) already obtained at Pianco, but also the absolute 
 ownership of all his estate in that vicinity, estimated at about 12,000 acres, together with buildings, 
 stock, timber, and all his rights appertaining thereto. 7th. And, finally, that a moderate outlay 
 appears sufficient to insure very large returns. If only fifty tons of ore per day were reduced, it is 
 estimated that a year's operations, at that rate, would yield a profit on the cost of working of not 
 less than £46,500. 
 
Appendix I. 
 
 (From " The Anglo-Brazilian Times," of October 24, 1865 (edited by a Koman Catholic), Rio de Janeiro. 
 RELIGIOUS DISABILITIES. 
 
 HowEVEK diminished the influence religious bigotry may now openly exert 
 upon the conduct of civilized peoples, it is not by any means a powerless element 
 of mischief, even among those nations who put forward the strongest pretensions 
 to the perfect establishment of religious toleration, and who allow to the dictates 
 of conscience the utmost latitude of thought and action. 
 
 Nations, even more than individuals, with difficulty loosen and divest them- 
 selves from those trammels which hereditary reverence throws around them, — 
 those trammels which arise from the "straining at a gnat and swallowing a 
 camel " scruples of doctrinal education, — from that Phariseeism that lies at the 
 root of all intolerance, (whose life and nature are egotism and self-conceit,) 
 which bestows opprobrious terms upon its brother man, and says to him, "Stand 
 aside: I am holier than thou;" "Thy faith is not my faith: therefore thou art a 
 fool, and a godless man, and unfit to rule thyself." Religious "cant," as it has 
 been termed, is still rampant and destructive among some of the freest and most 
 progressive nations; and the cry of "Religion and the Church in danger!" still 
 proves sufficient, at times, to drown the dictates of conscience and even-handed 
 justice. 
 
 What wonder, then, when commercial, Protestant England and polished and 
 tolerant Papal France still furnish occasional examples of outbursts of reli- 
 gious intolerance, that Brazil, a land lately emerged from her colonial chrysalis, 
 barely entering into contact with tlie outer world, (her liberal constitution and 
 laws rather the work of enlightened monarchs and progressive statesmen, acqui- 
 esced in by a gentle people, than the expression of the inner feeling of the 
 advanced masses,) should still maintain upon her statute rolls legislative pro- 
 visions contrary to the liberality and spirit of that constitution? If religious 
 disabilities are hurtful in old and densely-populated countries, they are a hundred- 
 fold more mischievous in a new and thinly-settled one like Brazil; for they tend 
 to repel instead of attracting immigration, and they deprive those who are 
 subjected to them of that feeling of equality of rights and interests which it 
 should be the great endeavor of a people to inculcate among those citizens of 
 other lands who come among them to be of them and with them. 
 
 Brazilian legislation disables any but Roman Catholics from becoming Deputies, 
 and, constructively, from becoming "electors," — the "delegates" of the United 
 States. Whence arises danger to the "Good Estate" if his fellow-citizens give 
 their suffrages to a "heretic" whom they trust and wish to honor? Do the 
 Papist and Jewish legislators of Great Britain and Prussia advocate insurrection 
 and immorality? Does Louis Napoleon find his Jewish senators and his Minister 
 of Finance less faithful than his Roman Catholic ones? Do conscience and 
 honor make their resting-place" only in the bosom of members of a " state 
 religion"? And are not the property, the interests, the intelligence of the 
 dissenting portion of a population as worthy of, and as much entitled to, repre- 
 sentation, as the property and interests of members of the State Church? 
 
 40 625 
 
626 Appekdis I. 
 
 Does the legal restriction of a cross or steeple render the heretical house of 
 prayer less a temple of that God whose worship was first carried on in upper 
 rooms, in caves, in groves ? Will the sight of heretical peristyles and decorations 
 uproot from the minds of the faithful the precepts of a Church whose claim it is 
 to possess the keys of heaven and hell, to loose and unloose? Can a legislature 
 which enacts such stringent laws of mortmain, that provides for the extinguish- 
 ment of the confraternities, and for schools to educate and enlighten the rising 
 generation, — can they, can the ministers of the state religion themselves, 
 believe that the "outward signs of temple" will undermine and overthrow a 
 worship bequeathed to them by the martyrs that carried it triumphantly through 
 the opprobrium and the bloody scenes of Jewish and Roman persecution? No! 
 it cannot be that they seriously believe it ! — to do so would be to doubt themselves 
 and their religion; but a few intolerant minds raise the war-cry of "The Church 
 in danger!" and " cant " carries the day against the secret wishes of the tolerant 
 majority. 
 
 But perhaps nothing is likely to operate more injuriously on the successful 
 issue of immigration than the legislative intolerance of "civil" marriages. 
 These have been permitted by the laws of several nations which furnish emi- 
 grants, not merely by such Protestant countries as Great Britain and the United 
 States, but likewise by Roman Catholic France and Italy. Great numbers of 
 their marriages have been celebrated according to the simple form and regulations 
 of their permissive laws of civil matrimony: yet Brazil refuses to allow them force 
 or validity within her territories! What will be the efl'ect of such intolerance 
 upon the proud emigrants from the Southern States, whom Brazilians are so wisely 
 endeavoring to attract, in whose country a simple rite and registry before a country 
 justice is a usual form of marriage, yet is a marriage and an evidence unrecog- 
 nized and invalid in Brazilian courts of law ! Will these Americans, so rightly 
 jealous of their own and their families' reputation, willingly seek Brazil while 
 she stamps upon their children the brand of illegitimacy ? Is not this also into- 
 lerance rampant behind the mask of "danger to the Church"? 
 
 These are matters well and deeply to be pondered by Brazilian legislators, and 
 on which some Brazilian O'Connell can win reputation and the homage of men. 
 
 Let him boldly couch the spear and overthrow the dragon of intolerance at the 
 next session of the legislature, and he will find the demon "cant," like Apollyon, 
 needs but a vigorous thrust to send him howling from the presence of the assem- 
 bled wisdom of Brazil. 
 
 Immigration is yet a tender exotic in this country, that calls for gentle handling 
 and careful culture. The weakling plant is promising fairly now, and now is the 
 time to nourish it, to cull away every weed that threatens injury, that the little 
 upshoot, gaining strength and vigor day by day, deep-rooting and wide-branch- 
 ing, may spread around through all the land, bringing prosperity and happiness 
 to millions, and riches and power to Brazil. 
 
 Note. — Disxenters in the new House of Commons. — There are in the House of 
 Commons, as representatives of English constituencies, thirteen Independents, 
 twelve Unitarians, five Jews, three Catholics, three Quakers, one Baptist, and one 
 Wesleyan; as representatives of Irish constituencies, thirty-one Catholics, one 
 Quaker, and one Independent; as representatives of Scotch constituencies, three 
 United Presbyterians, two Free Churchmen, one Independent, and one Unitarian: 
 making the total number of Dissenters in the new House of Commons forty-four, 
 and the number of Catholics thirty-four: gross total, seventy-eight. 
 
Appendix J. 
 
 - PROFESSOR AGASSIZ'S LABORS ON THE AMAZON. 
 
 The wonderful discoveries made by Professor Agassiz in tlie fauna of the 
 Amazon have attracted the attention of the scientific world. In due time these 
 great results will doubtless be published by the professor himself. But so great 
 is the interest manifested in these explorations that I avail myself of two letters 
 written by Dr. J. M. da Silva Coutinho, (the Brazilian explorer of the Purus,) who 
 accompanied the professor on the Amazon. 
 
 The first letter of Dr, Coutinho from Mangos, under date of November 7, 
 18U5, gives the following account of the professor's researches : — 
 
 "In the beginning of September I wrote my first letter from this capital, giving 
 a slight notice of my labors so far. We had then more than 300 species collected 
 in Parii, Tajipurii, Gurupd, Porto de Moz, Monte Alegre, Villa Bella, and Serpa. 
 In Santar^m we collected only some four species We spent fifteen days on the 
 passage from Para. 
 
 " From Manaos we started on the 10th of September, on board the Icamiaba, 
 bound for Tabatinga, intending to pursue our voyage in the Peruvian steamers 
 thence to the village of Jurimaguas, and in canoe and on foot from this landing 
 to the eastern side of the Andes. 
 
 "Several of our travelling companions M'ere to stay at Tabatinga, S. Pag^s, 
 Nauta, and Laguna, to make collections in the Maranhao, Uallaga, Ucayalle, 
 Napo, Hyauary, and other affluents of the Soliuiocs or Upper Amazon. 
 
 "We planned this journey while awaiting the state of the Rio Negro, still at 
 the beginning of the ebb, as we could make valuable collections only forty days 
 later. 
 
 " In Tefi"6, during the stay of the steamer, we collected some specimens of the 
 Acard petroina, with its eggs in its mouth, and Professor Agassiz had then an 
 opportunity of studying this curious phenomenon, of such great scientific interest. 
 
 "We found the ebb far advanced there, and the people of the place said that 
 there was already abundance of fish. 
 
 " We started the same day from TefF6 [where Bates collected in 1857-59]. 
 
 " In Fonte Boa, Tunantins, and S. Paulo, we found the river lower ; and some 
 of the inhabitants said that the freshet could not delay long. 
 
 " This circumstance caused us to alter the plan of the voyage, and Professor 
 Agassiz resolved to return from Tabatinga to Teffe, to remain at work there, 
 profiting by the best time for the fisheries of the Solimoes, whilst Dr. Coutinho 
 and another would go to the side of the Andes to study the geologic formations 
 and the vestiges of the ancient glaciers. 
 
 "When we came to Tabatinga, this plan was further altered in view of the 
 news from Peru. The civil war had invaded the districts of Caxamarca and 
 
 627 
 
628 Appendix J. 
 
 Chachapoyas, through which we had to pass, and there was neither safety on the 
 way nor means of effecting the trip. Besides this, as the excursion to Peru could 
 be made at any time, and the ichthyological study of the Solimoes only when the 
 river is lowest, almost all the fishes disappearing as soon as the freshet begins;, 
 we agreed to leave the work of the Andes to a later period, and to use the time 
 of low water in the Solimoes. 
 
 " In Tabatinga we found the remnant of the Spanish commission, which had 
 descended by the Napo, having traversed the republic of Ecuador. One of the 
 members was very sick. [Spanish should doubtless read "Peruvian." — j. c. f.] 
 
 "There we left Mr. Bourget to make collections from the Hyauary, and Mr. 
 James and another to explore the 19a, Hyutay, and Hyuru4. 
 
 "On the 24th of September we were in Tefife. The first fishing that we did 
 was on the beaches of Nogueira, five miles off, opposite the city. The enthusiasm 
 of Professor Agassiz seemed to reach ecstasy on seeing the great number of species 
 collected in only three casts of the net. 'This success is so great that I feel my 
 head splitting,' said he, contemplating the fishes on the beach. 
 
 " We continued with much profit our labors in the basin of TetF^, passing 
 afterwards to the left side of the Solimoes in company with Major Estulano, who 
 furnished us the occasion and means of making a fine collection. The best 
 result we obtained was in Lake Boto, which is one of the deposits of water so 
 curious in the islands of the Amazon. 
 
 "The Parand-Mirim, the channel which separates two islands, is obstructed at 
 the higher part, either because of a bank formed before it turning aside the 
 current, or of the increase of the beaches at the upper parts of the islands. The 
 ParanA-Mirim passes then to the condition of a gulf or bay. During the low 
 stage of tho river, these deposits contribute with their contingent, and so the 
 Bands little by little advance towards the mouth. When the river rises there is 
 not the least emptying of the gulfs : on the contrary, they receive a part of the 
 water of the river. Finally, the mouth di'ies in the summer, plants grow, the 
 sediment increases the soil rapidly, and the gulf is transformed into a lake. 
 
 " As I said, the labors in Lake Boto were very satisfactory. The professor had 
 here another opportunity of verifying the principle established by him many 
 years ago upon the resemblance of the adults and young of diverse genera of the 
 same family. 
 
 " In the Tefi"^ he discovered a new genus of the family of the Scomberesoces, 
 which he has named Limnobelone. This genus is distinguished from the others 
 by having the dorsal and anal fins larger, and the caudal rounded. The maxillars 
 are like those of the genus Belone. 
 
 " In Lake Boto we caught a young fish of a new genus, having the inferior 
 maxillar much larger than the superior, entirely different from the adult, and, 
 under this point of view, perfectly resembling another genus of the same family, 
 the Ilemiramphus Braziliensis, which is found in the Atlantic Ocean and is common 
 at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 "Not less important was the discovery made by the professor in some fishes 
 of the family of the Siluroides, of having only two bones in the opercular appa- 
 ratus, when, until now, it was believed to have three. 
 
 "In Teff^ great assistance was rendered by Dr. Romauldo, the Juizde Direito, 
 Captain Joao da Cunha, and Lieutenant Pedro Mendes. The old fisherman Vicente 
 Marquez gave us important information on the habits of the fishes, according to 
 which we could settle on secure bases for the distribution into species. 
 
Appendix J. 629 
 
 "On the 18th, our companion Mr. James arrived, having visited the 19a and 
 Hyutaby, but not having had time to examine the Hyuru:!.* On the 21st, the 
 Icamiaba anchored in the port on her return from Tabatinga, bringing Mr. Bourget. 
 Both brought upwards of two hundred species. We embarked on the same day, 
 and came to this capital on the 23d of October. 
 
 "From want of health and of alcohol, we have not done here as much as we 
 desired. In all we collected seventy-six species, almost all new, during the three 
 days we passed at Lake Hyanuary. The most notable discovery was a new genus 
 of the family of the Chromides, which has the caudal fin shaped like a lance, to 
 which Professor Agassiz gave the name of Dr. Coutinho. 
 
 " The President of the Province accompanied us to Hyanuary, and furnished 
 us all requisites. Dr. Tavares Bastos and other gentlemen also went with us. 
 
 "Up to this time we have collected 776 species, of which 650 are new. 
 
 " The professor said, before coming to the Amazon, that he would be well 
 satisfied if he collected 250 new species. The result, then, has been extraordi- 
 nary; and the professor says that it is a true revelation for science. 
 
 " We supposed that there would be diversity of the species in the black and 
 white water, in the lakes and rivers, in the^ upper part and the mouths ; but no one 
 had imagined that it would extend to the same region where all circumstances 
 are identical. 
 
 "The species of Pard are entirely diiferent from those of Tajapurfi, these from 
 those of Gurupd, these from those of Monte Alegre, and so on. Even between 
 near places there is a notable diflference, as we observed in the lakes of Jos6- 
 Assu and Maximo, which are not four miles apart, and lie on the same side of the 
 Tupynambaranas. 
 
 " The Amazon, then, comprehends a great number of ichthyologic faunae, or 
 provinces occupied by distinct species. 
 
 "The knowledge of this fact opens new horizons to scientific researches, and 
 is the surest base for the study of the distribution of species. 
 
 "Having established, therefore, the great principle, it remains to know the 
 number of the ichthyologic provinces, the extent of their limits or the situation 
 of the points of contact, and the causes which determine the differences. All 
 these questions exact long labors and study, but their result must be extraordinary 
 and perhaps one of the finest results yet obtained in the study of nature. 
 
 " The surprise increases when we reflect that the climate does not vary thr6ugh- 
 out a great extent of the Amazon. 
 
 "The same phenomenon that is observed in the main stream takes place in the 
 tributaries; and, as our labors were made in a few places of the Amazon, and 
 merely, besides, in the Tapajos, Hyauary, 19a. and Tefi"e, some leagues from their 
 mouths, an idea may be formed of the great result of a complete exploration that 
 would embrace the courses and all the tributaries. There is no exaggeration 
 in supposing the existence of between two and three thousand species in the 
 valley of the Amazon. Until now only a little more than 100 were known. 
 Wallace collected 205 in the Rio Negro ; his collection, however, was in most 
 part lost. 
 
 "With our labors in the Negro, Madeira, and in Alau^s and other parts of the 
 province of Par4, we hope to find, perhaps, 300 species more, reaching thus a 
 
 * Dr. Coutinhos writea with an initial H all those names of the affluents of the Amazon whicli 
 commence with a J in the map of Brazil affixed to this work. 
 
630 Appendix J. 
 
 number exceeding 1000, which are as many as are known at present in the 
 Mediterranean. 
 
 "When Linnffius published the 6th edition of his System of Nature, a little 
 more than a century ago, the number of known species on all the globe did not 
 exceed 300. Now, however, the labors of only three months give the knowledge 
 of almost 800 in the Amazon." [April, 1866. — The final result of five months is 
 Bald to be 1300 species. — J. c. f.] 
 
 SECOND LETTER. 
 
 " ManAos, November 24, 1865. 
 
 "As 1 said before, we resolved to put off the trip to Peru in consequence of the 
 news received at Tabatinga of affairs in that republic. The low stage of water, 
 also, was nearly at its close, and thus but little time remained to make useful col- 
 lections. As soon as the rise commences, the beaches become covered and the 
 margins inundated, while the greater number of the species of fish leave the rivers 
 for the Igapd, the forest that borders the river and remains flooded during winter. 
 The fishes that remain seek the deepest places, and the use of the net or hook 
 becomes almost impossible. The only recourse to the Indian is the arrow and 
 harpoon, but fishing then becomes very slow, and not rarely the fisher has to 
 return empty-handed. 
 
 " The collection that we made in the Teff^ and its neighborhood was magnifi- 
 cent. Besides numerous species. Professor Agassiz discovered many new genera, 
 acquiring knowledge, likewise, of some important laws to which certain species 
 are subject in their development, ignorance of which has caused mistakes in 
 classification. 
 
 " Schomburg, for example, established as a special characteristic the adporous 
 protuberance found in the head of some fishes of the genus Cychla: we, on the 
 contrary, find that this is accidental. We had occasion to examine the Tucunari 
 (the indigenous name) without the protuberance, with it beginning to develop, 
 and after it had attained its growth. 
 
 " This curious phenomenon takes place in the commencement of winter. The 
 fishermen account for it by saying that the fish, while entering the 'igap6,' 
 strikes its head against the trees, and therefore the inflammation appears. The 
 trutt reason, however, is the critical state in which the ' Tucunare ' is at the 
 beginning of winter, which is when it spawns. 
 
 "Through the profusion of some genera of the family of Chromids, permitting 
 the comparative study of the young and the adults, the professor was enabled to 
 lay down the following law: — that the samo species presents different radicals 
 according to age. 
 
 "In some new species of the Siluroids the professor found, likewise, only two 
 bones in the opercular apparatus, whereas all the species previously known had 
 three. 
 
 "He verified again the principle established by him many years ago on the 
 resemblance of adult and young individuals of different genera of the same 
 family. A new genus was found belonging to the family of the Scomber osoces, 
 which he called Lymnobelona, and which was distinguished from the others by 
 having the dorsal and anal fins greater, and the caudal rounded. As in the genus 
 Belona, the maxillars are equal. 
 
 " Some time afterwards we caught a young one of the new genus, having the 
 lower maxillar much greater than the upper one, and in this point of view some- 
 
Appendix J. G31 
 
 what resembling the other genus of the same family, the Ilemiramphus Braziliensis, 
 inhabiting the sea, and found on almost all the coast of Brazil. 
 
 " At Mandos we collected 150 more species, almost all in the Lake Hyanuary, 
 opposite the city. 
 
 "To-day there arrived in the /cammia a fine collection brought by the two 
 parties sent to Lakes Manacdpurfi and Cudayiis. In two bottles alone the pro- 
 fessor found sixty-eight species; and we hope to iind a greater number in the 
 eight barrels not j'et opened. 
 
 " The collection made up to now consists of 970 species, of which more than 
 700 are new. Imagine the surprise and pleasure of Professor Agassiz in view of 
 60 great a result, who wlien entering the Amazon considered himself fortunate 
 should he find 250 species. 
 
 " The results that we obtained at the first points made us believe that the great 
 river possessed many distinct faunae of the ichthyological provinces: however, 
 when at our last two we explored some igarapes (smaller rivers) and lakes, distant 
 from one another not more than 1200 yards, we saw then that the number was 
 extraordinary. The collection of so great a number of species in a few places, 
 and during only three months, surprises the more when we reflect that, in 1840, 
 Captain Wilkes collected only 600 in a voyage round the globe, with three ships, 
 in an expedition lasting four years. 
 
 " As yet we cannot determine what number of species a single region contains, 
 on account of the rarity, and of the little time at command. At present we are 
 treating of this important question in Lake Hyanuary. 
 
 •' The family of Chromidn is one of those wbich show the greatest sensibility to 
 changes of their mode of living, and therefore the most important discoveries 
 made by us appertain to them. It comprehends, in the Amazon, the fishes known 
 as the Tucunare, Jacundus, and Acards. 
 
 "Fifteen new genera have now been established by the professor, embracing 
 the fishes that live by preference in the igarapes, and he thinks of separating two 
 of these genera into families, in consequence of their general characters, some 
 belonging to the Gobioides and others to Cyprinodontes. Those fishes are known 
 by the name of Amore, and are found only at the west part of the island of 
 Marajo, at the place Taypurli. This circumstance makes us believe that the 
 Amores determine approximately the point to which the waters of the ocean 
 reach in the Amazon. 
 
 "The most interesting genus, however, in the opinion of the professor, is one 
 discovered by us in Lake Hyanuary, opposite this city. It came, so to say, to 
 strengthen the union of the families, serving as intermediate between others 
 rather separated, as those of the Jacundds (Crenia/chla), and divers Acards [Sa- 
 ianoperea, Hjigrogonus). The structure of the caudal fin of the new genus is an 
 exaggeration of the Jacnndd type, in consequence of the prolongation of its medial 
 rays, whilst the dorsal and anal fins are equally elongated in the posterior part, 
 as in the true Acards. The body resembles the Jacundd. 
 
 "According to the professor, the name Foh/morphes suits the Chromids v!q\\. 
 Its genera resemble the greater part of those of the families inhabiting the ocean, 
 many rivers of the East Indies, and other points of the globe. In the Amazon, 
 then, representatives of a great proportion of the inhabitants of the waters are 
 found. This family is one of those most widely spread, although the greater 
 number of its species are found in South America. Represented in the 
 whole of tropical Asia, it extends to Africa on the western coast to the Cape of 
 
682 Appendix J. 
 
 Good Hope. In America it is met with in all the streams of the continent, from 
 Patagonia to the Gulf of Mexico; being substituted in the North by the Ehjchiida 
 [Centrarchids), which might well be joined with the true Chromids. 
 
 "The professor has paid particular attention to the study of the Chromids, on 
 account of the difficulties presented in the knowledge of the species. 
 
 "It is almost impossible to determine with precision the special characteristics 
 of these fishes without examining a great number of specimens, because the 
 young and adult differ considerably in some genera, and there is a notable differ- 
 ence between the two sexes. In some genera the young have a more elongated 
 form than the adults; the contrary happening in others. It is by the color, how- 
 ever, that the adults are most distinguishable from the young. The Tucunares, 
 for example, when completely developed are remarkable for their brilliant fjlors, 
 transversal stripes, and a beautiful dark-blue spot on the tail, having a yello\vish 
 or pink fringe. The young, on the other hand, are pale, and have only a lof^gi- 
 tudinal stripe. In the new Fleo7-oj)o, the longitudinal stripes that the young ha^e 
 are substituted in adolescence by some black spots on the sides and tail. Th^i 
 contrary is observed in the genus Mesonauta. A line of black dots, which the " 
 young have, disposed diagonally on the sides, is transformed by age into a con- 
 tinuous streak; and in other genera modifications more or less remarkable, 
 according to age, are observed. 
 
 "It is therefore evident that, to appreciate these great differences, the exami- 
 nation of one individual is insufficient. For this reason the descriptions published 
 up to the present time cannot give an exact idea of these fishes, and it is very 
 probable that some fishes, considered as different species, are only the same at 
 different ages. Still more: the adults vary, likewise, according to the season, 
 and at the time of spawning, during .which they have the most brilliant colors. 
 On this point, however, the inquiries require much time. The difference of cha- 
 racter between the sexes does not appear to be the same in all the genera. 
 The most considerable we found among the Cychla and Geophagus [Tuczmare and 
 Acardyne). The male possesses at the milting season an adporous protuberance 
 in the head, as I have already mentioned^ and which Schomburg gives as special 
 characteristic of the species Cychla trifasciata and Cychla niyromaculata. 
 
 " The habits of the Chromids are very variable. Whilst some swim at the sur- 
 face, as the Lepterophilum [Acard-pena] and the Mesonauta [Acard Merere), others 
 descend a little below. Of this kind is the genus Cychla; but the Ilygroyonua 
 does not leave the bottom, and, buried in the mud, often escapes the net. This 
 genus, which comprehends the Acara-assu, is one of the most beautiful, from the 
 carmine spots that the fishes have on the tail, upon the dorsal and side fins. Its 
 habit is to leave eggs in the orifices found in the banks, and to remain there until 
 the young can accompany it. 
 
 "The fishes of genera Geophagus and Satanoperca (^Acardyane and Acaratinga) 
 keep the eggs in a pouch formed by the superior pharyngeal bones, which curve 
 upon the branchial arches. 
 
 " The professor had an opportunity of studying the complete development of 
 the eggs, (observing the newly-born in the branchial pouch up to their state of 
 swimming freely,) in the species to which he gave the name of the Emperor, 
 Geophagus Pedroinus, and of which he made a complete study.* 
 
 * This fish wati Sr?t discovered on the 22dof Novfmber, 1862, by Sr. Henrique Antonii and J. C. F., 
 while collecting specimens for Professor Agassiz, in an igarapi on the island of Pupagayos, opposite 
 the Slanilos. 
 
Appendix J. 633 
 
 "The configuration of the head is very curious in these species that preserve 
 the eggs in the branchial pouch. They have a nervous protuberance, resembling 
 the electric lobule of the Malapterurus, in the part posterior to the cerebellum, 
 serving as a root to the nerve that is prolonged hence to the inferior branchial 
 arch, forming, evidently, such a centre of special action as is shown in the 
 marsupial pouch. For this reason the protuberance well merits the name of 
 ^genetic lobule.' 
 
 "About thirty years ago the family of the Chromids was established, almost at 
 the same time, by Heckel and jNIUUer, with some genera of the Lahroides and 
 Scienoides of Cuvier. The number of its species was then very limited. In the 
 British Museum catalogue published in 1862, which gives the last and most com- 
 plete enumeration of this family, the number of its species in all the world is 
 110, distributed in 19 genera. Of these species, only 12 belonged to the Amazon. 
 Now, however, we have here 120 species, almost all new, — that is, a greater number 
 than were known in 1862 in all points of the globe. 
 
 "At another opportunity I will speak of the families of the Siluroids and 
 Characins. 
 
 "In the next fortnight we purpose setting out for Mauds, and thence to Pard." 
 
 A A^OLCANO IN SOUTHERN BRAZIL. 
 Captain Burton, F.R.G.S., English Consul at Santos, writes a brief but inte- 
 resting letter to "The Anglo-Brazilian Times," in regard to the discovery of a 
 volcano in Southern Brazil, about half-way between S. Paulo and Paranagua. 
 
 "Mr. Editor: — I was canoeing down the river of Iguapd, — in this consular 
 district, — it is called, ridiculously enough, the Ribeira, or rivulet, — when, calling 
 on the excellent vigario (vicar) of Xiririca, M. J. Gabriel da Silva Cardoso, and 
 looking over his Livro do Tombo, (Parish Register,) I was struck by the name of 
 a place, in the Tupi or Lingua Geral 'Vutupoca,' translated Morro que rebenta, 
 'hill that explodes.' On the other side of the river, bearing southwest from the 
 vicarage, rose the morro, clothed with trees cap-d-pie, an isolated gradual cone, 
 with a distinctly volcanic outline. Its northeastern face is, I was told, a perpen- 
 dicular rock. 
 
 "The fearful rains of January, 1866, prevented my ascending the Exploding 
 Hill. But the result of many local inquiries was that as lately as fifteen years 
 ago flame has been seen rising from the hill, and the phenomenon was accompa- 
 nied by rumblings and explosions which extended across the river to the opposite 
 range of Bananal Pequeno. 
 
 "You will, I hope, hear from me again. Should this report of a dormant vol- 
 cano in Southern Brazil be confirmed by absolute exploration, the discovery will 
 be of no little value in a geograpliical point of view. And these lines may per- 
 haps, should I be unable to carry out my project, induce another and a better 
 man to undertake the task. It is not, you will remember, half a century ago 
 when the scientific men of Europe declared that no volcanic formations, and cer- 
 tainly no volcanoes, could be found in this magnificent empire. 
 "I am, sir, 
 
 "Your obedient servant, 
 
 RICHARD F. BURTON, F.R.G.S. 
 
 " Hotel Milton, Santos, Brazil." 
 
Appendix K. 
 
 THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS AT RIO DE JANEIRO IN 1804. 
 
 
 
 Centigrade 
 
 
 The same reduced to Fahrenheit. 
 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 Average. 
 
 
 25.350 
 25.399 
 24.970 
 24.240 
 21.920 
 20.029 
 19.229 
 20.1;i0 
 20.700 
 21.844 
 23.321 
 24.839 
 
 27.250 
 27.820 
 27.155 
 26.762 
 23.986 
 22.800 
 22.221 
 22.781 
 22.838 
 23.951 
 ■ 24.815 
 26.519 
 
 26.719 
 27.040 
 28.052 
 26.081 
 23.484 
 22.392 
 21.855 
 22.017 
 22.414 
 23.127 
 24.672 
 25.233 
 
 7°7.630 
 77.718 
 76.946 
 75.632 
 71.456 
 68.052 
 66.612 
 68.234 
 69.260 
 71.319 
 73.978 
 76.710 
 
 81.0.50 
 82.076 
 80.879 
 80.172 
 75.175 
 73.051 
 71.998 
 73.006 
 73.110 
 76.112 
 76.667 
 79.734 
 
 8°0.094 
 80.672 
 82.494 
 78.946 
 74.271 
 72.306 
 71..339 
 71.631 
 72.34.'i 
 73.629 
 76.410 
 77.419 
 
 o 
 79.591 
 
 
 80.155 
 
 
 80.107 
 
 
 78.250 
 
 May 
 
 73.634 
 
 
 71.136 
 
 July 
 
 69.984 
 
 
 70.957 
 
 
 71.571 
 
 
 73..353 
 
 
 75 684 
 
 
 77.954 
 
 
 
 Meteorological and other observations by Lieutenants (Brazilian Navy) Jos6 da Costa Azevedo and 
 
 Joao Soares Pinto, of the Commission for settling the limits between Brazil and Peru. 
 
 Average Temperature, each month for si.\ months, at Para, (lat. S. 1° 27' 06",) from observations in 
 
 the street of-S. Jeronimo, from November to April inclusive, 1861-62. 
 
 
 Reaumur. 
 
 The same by therm. Fahrenreit. 
 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 
 20.0 
 20.1 
 20.4 
 19.5 
 19.3 
 19.5 
 
 22.2 
 22.6 
 22.6 
 22.8 
 22.5 
 23.5 
 
 21.7 
 21.5 
 21.4 
 , 21.8 
 22.1 
 21.8 
 
 77. 
 
 77.2 
 
 78 
 
 75,8 
 
 75.4 
 
 75.8 
 
 82 
 
 82.8 
 
 82.8 
 
 83.3 
 
 82.6 
 
 84.8 
 
 80 8 
 
 
 80 3 
 
 
 80 1 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 81 7 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 
 Average for six months 
 
 19.6 
 
 22.8 
 
 21.7 
 
 76 1 83.3 
 
 80.8 
 
 Average Temperature each month for six months in 1S62, at Manaos (Barra), from observations on 
 the grounds for the Cathedral [Igrega Matriz]. 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 Augiist 
 
 September. 
 October 
 
 Average tor six months. 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 20.9 
 
 20.5 
 20.9 
 20.8 
 20.3 
 21.8 
 
 20.9 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 22.2 
 22.2 
 23.3 
 23.9 
 24.6 
 24.9 
 
 23.5 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 21.8 
 22.5 
 23.4 
 
 23.1 
 23.7 
 24 
 
 23.2 
 
 The same by therm. Fahrenheit. 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 79 
 
 7?.l 
 
 79 
 
 78.8 
 
 77.6 
 
 81 
 
 79 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 82 
 
 82 
 
 84.4 
 
 85.7 
 
 87.3 
 
 88 
 
 84.8 
 
 84.6 
 84 
 
 85.3 
 
 Si.2 
 
 Nnte.—The lowest average at Para recorded by Srs. Soares and Pinto was that of December, at 5 
 A.M., when it was Reaumur 18.7, (Fahrenheit 74.7 ;) but there is no 5 A.M. record for the four succeeding 
 months. The lowest average at Man.^os in the six hottest months of the year was in June, at 10 p.m., 
 Reaumur 19, (Fahrenheit 74.7,) and at 3 a.m., Reaumur 19.2, (Fahrenheit 74.9.) Pari is dryer and a little 
 cooler than Manaos. 
 634 
 
Appendix K. 
 
 635 
 
 
 Latitude South. 
 
 Longitude '^est 
 of Greenwich. 
 
 Ordinary Level 
 of Kiver above 
 that of the Ocean. 
 
 Declivity of the 
 Amazon current, 
 in English feet. 
 
 Parfi, 
 
 1° 27' 
 1 43 
 1 24 
 
 1 49 
 
 2 24 
 
 1 55 
 
 2 37 
 
 3 08 
 3 08 
 
 06" 
 
 08 
 
 57 
 
 00 
 
 50 
 
 03 
 
 25 
 
 05 
 
 04 
 
 48° 26' 17" 
 60 25 39 
 51 34 47 
 
 53 25 64 
 
 54 39 14 
 
 55 26 29 
 66 40 58 
 
 58 22 24 
 
 59 57 03 
 
 Metres. 
 10.71 
 12.49 
 13.09 
 14.62 
 15.38 
 17.70 
 24.23 
 25.26 
 28.19 
 35.09 
 36.79 
 37.34 
 3S.03 
 38.26 
 45.99 
 
 Feet. Inches. 
 35 1.6 
 
 
 40 11.7 
 
 
 42 11.3 
 
 
 47 11.6 
 
 
 50 5.5 
 
 Obidost 
 
 68 0.8 
 
 Villa Bella]: 
 
 79 5.9 
 
 
 84 2.2 
 
 
 92 5.8 
 
 
 115 1.5 
 
 Teffe (or Ega) 
 
 
 
 120 8.4 
 
 
 
 
 123 9.8 
 
 
 
 
 124 9.2 
 
 Villa de S. P. d'OIiveuca. 
 
 
 
 125 6.3 
 
 
 4 15 
 
 00 
 
 69 62 13 
 
 150 10.6 
 
 
 
 * On the island of Marajo, (southwest portion,) 131 geographical miles from Par&. 
 
 f The tide reaches Obidos during the lowest stage of water. 
 
 J Sometimes called Villa Nova. 
 
 g Before the careful observations of Srs. J. da Costa Azevedo and Scares Piuto, the estimates of 
 the elevation of the river above the level of the ocean were mere guesses : e. g. the level of the river 
 at Manaos was placed by Spix and Martias at 169 (metres) 57cms. (English feet 556 4 inches) above 
 the ocean, Castelnau at 62m. 4Scms. (204 feet Hi inches), and by Herndon, 1475 feet(!); whereas the 
 real level above the ocean is 92 feet b\ inches. Can there be found elsewhere in this world such a 
 channel for internal narigation ? 
 
 THE DECLIVITY OF THE AMAZON PER LEAGUE* (PORTUGTJESE) FROM TABATINGA 
 
 TO parI. 
 
 From Tabatinsa to Villa S. P. d'Olivenga 
 
 " A'illa d'6liven9a to Teffe (Ega) 
 
 " Teffe to Coary 
 
 " Coary to Manaos 
 
 Manaos to Scrpa (129 geographical miles).. 
 
 Serpa to Villa Bella (159 
 Villa Bella to Obidos (105 
 Obidos to Santarem ( 73 
 Santarem to Prainha (100 
 Prainha to Gurupi (143 
 Guriipa to Breves (119 
 Breves to Para (131 
 
 Para to mouth of the Amazon. 
 
 Average declivity per league... 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 2.720 
 2.400 
 2.S70 
 2.970 
 2.940 
 3.200 
 3.690 
 3.S60 
 4.140 
 4.910 
 6.900 
 7.810 
 6.847 
 
 4.090, or 1 inch per mile. 
 
 Count de Castelnau's observations in 1844 make the declivity per league 4.14 inches. 
 
 * The ordinary Portuguese league is about four English miles. 
 
 Note. — I observed the tide at Obidos in November, 1862 ; Mr. Bates, in 1S55, observed it on the 
 Tapajos, a distance of 530 miles from the ocean. This tide is of fresh water banked up or diivcn 
 inward by the regular ocean tide. — J. F. C. 
 
Time Table of the United States and Brazil Lixe. 
 (From the agent, W. R. Garrison, Esq., 5 Bowling-Green, New York.) 
 
 Passage from New York to Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 a . 
 
 ^ Cm 
 ai 
 
 hours. 
 
 12 
 22 
 11 
 12 
 
 — .J 
 Passage from Rio de Janeiro to New York. g> § 
 
 Leave N. Y 22J of each mo. of 30 days, 3 p.m. 
 
 Arrive at St Thomas (14U0 miles) the 29th 
 " P;ir.i (1610 " )the 7th 
 " Peruambuco (1090 " ) the 15th 
 " Bahia . (375 ' ) the 17th 
 " Rio .laneiro ( 725 " ) the 20th 
 
 Total 5200 miles run. 
 
 Total running time 25 days, 15 hours. 
 
 Leave Rio the 25th of each month, at 2 p.m. 
 
 Arrive at Bahia ( 725 miles) the 2.'ilh 
 " Pernambuco( 375 " ) the 1st 
 " Para (1090 " ) the 6th 
 " St. Thomas (1«10 " ) the 14th 
 " New York (1400 " ) the 21st 
 
 Total running time, 22 days 16 hxiurs. 
 Four calls, 2 " 23 " 
 
 hours. 
 
 12 
 13 
 34 
 12 
 
 28 days. 
 
 N. B. — In months having 31 days the steam- 
 ers leave New York the 23d. 
 
 26 days 15 hours. 
 
 From New York to Rio and back 58 days 
 15 hours. 
 
 N. B. — The steamers will leave Rio the 
 26th of months having 31 d.Tys. 
 
 
 The United States and Brazil Mail Steamship Company corresponds, first, at St. Thomas with the 
 English, French, and Spanish steamers which run to 43 ports in the West Indies, Me.xico, Central 
 America, New Grenada, Venezuela, and the Guianas; with the English and French lines to Kurope; 
 2d, at I'arV it corresponds with the Amazon Navigation (Brazilian) Company-s steamboats, which run 
 up as far as Peru and are in connection with Peruvian steamboats on the upper Amazon, Sjpd with 
 Brazilian coast steamers for Maranham, Ceara, &c. ; 3d, at Rio with the French and English steamers 
 which go to Montevideo and Buenos Ayres, (the French line leaving Rio on the 22d of each month.) 
 We understand that the time is to be shortened. Mr. A. Arango, of New York, was the successful ad- 
 vocate of the company at Rio in 1865. Mr. J. F. Navarro was the New York agent until Juue, 1866. . 
 
Index. 
 
 Abdication of Dom Pedro I., 1, 83. 
 Aboriginal names, 306. 
 Aborigines, 466. 
 Academy of Fine Arts, 261. 
 Academy of Laws, 369. 
 Acclamation of Dom Pedro II., 223. 
 Administration of Brazilian law, 2d3. 
 Advertisements, 254. 
 Agassiz, 210, 250, and Aiipendix J, 627. 
 Alagoaz, province of, 611. 
 Alto-Amazon;iS, province of, 563. 
 Amazon River, 539, 55 i. 
 
 canoa, 551. 
 
 Cetacea of, 555. 
 
 discovery of, 563. 
 
 entrance to, 541. 
 
 expeditious, 563", 568, 574, 581. 
 
 explorations, 554. 
 
 first Protestant sermon on the, 542. 
 
 future of, 581. 
 
 Navigation Company, 547. 
 
 origin of name, 666. 
 
 source, 573. 
 
 Bteamer.-i, 575. 
 
 tributaries, 673. 
 
 Valley (area of), 574. 
 imazons, tribe of, 576. 
 Amenities of quarantine life, 514. 
 American Cemetery, 485. 
 
 factory, 274. 
 
 machinery, 501. 
 
 Seaman's Friend Society, 200. 
 
 sheep, 431. 
 Americus Vespucius in Brazil, 49. 
 Anacondas, 508. 
 
 one that swallowed a horse, 509. 
 Andrada, Antonio C, 215, 218, 222, 373, 377. 
 
 death of, 383. 
 
 Jose Bonifacio, 72, 73, 83, 215, 224, 272, 323. 
 
 Martin Francisco. 73, 220, 224, 376, 383. 
 Annoyances magnified, 507. 
 Ant-hills, .359. 
 Araguya explorations, 463. 
 Armadillo, 193. 
 
 Astronomy under difficulties, 429. 
 Asylums, 107-123. 
 Aymores, ferocity of, 471. 
 
 Bahia, city of, 475, 476. 
 
 history of, 478, 479 . 
 
 recaptured from Hollanders, 482. 
 
 sociability of, 484. 
 
 Bahia, Tiew of, 489. 
 
 Baronial style, 440. 
 
 Bastos, A. C. Tavares, 139, 186, IPT. 
 
 Bates, 581. 
 
 Bay of Rio de Janeiro, 14. 
 
 Beautiful panorama, 516. 
 
 scenery, 345. 
 Bees, indigenous, 455. 
 Bennett's, 206, 210. 
 Bible Christian, 519. 
 
 distribution, 266, 306, 336. 
 Bird Colony, 405. 
 Bishop Moura, 379. 
 Boat-bill, 571. 
 Boa Vista, 279. 
 Botanical gardens, 208. 
 Brazil, discovery of, by Pinzon, 46. 
 
 Cabral, 47. 
 
 first governor, 50. 
 
 independence, 71. 
 
 origin of name, 49. 
 
 revolution in, 72. 
 Brazilian Constitution, 76, and Appendix B, 603. 
 
 dinner, 310. 
 
 funerals, 203. 
 
 Historical and Geographical Institute, 261. 
 
 Jupiter Pluvius, 272. 
 
 literature, 251, 586. 
 
 writers, 586. 
 Bridge of novel construction, 411. 
 Brotero of San Paulo, 426. 
 Brotherhoods, 107-123. 
 Burial of the Innocents, .343. 
 Burton's discovery of a volcano, Appendix J, 633» 
 
 Cadeiras, 476, 477. 
 
 Campinas, 400. 
 
 Campos, 465. 
 
 Campo Santa Anna, 211. 
 
 Candiota coal, Appendix H, 617 
 
 Canoe voyage, 328. 
 
 Canta Gallo, 292. 
 
 Cape Frio, 464. 
 
 Captain Foster, 235. 
 
 Carumarfl, 478. 
 
 Cascades, 206. 
 
 Cear4, 527. 
 
 exploration of, 502. 
 Charlatanism, 342. 
 
 Chinese tea, its culture in Brazil. 419, 420. 
 City of Pittsburgh, 2.35. 
 Climate of Brazil, 269, and Appendix K, 63t 
 637 
 
638 
 
 Index. 
 
 Coal-mines, 347, and Appendix H, 617. 
 Coffee, its history and culture, 449. 
 Colleges, 178. 
 Colonia Donna Francisca, 334. 
 
 Joinville, 332. 
 Commerce of Brazil, 194. Appendix G, 614. 
 Commerce with United States, 501. 
 Constancia, 2S3. 
 
 Constitution of Brazil, 76, and Appendix B, 603. 
 Convents, 107-123. 
 Cool resorts, 270. 
 Cormorant and slavers, 315. 
 Coronation of D. Pedro II., 225. 
 Cotton-factory, 4&3. 
 Council of State, 227. 
 Course of law study, .371. 
 Curious items of trade, 360. 
 Curious trial, 265. 
 
 Daring navigation, 497. 
 
 Deceived custom-house officials, 421. 
 
 De la Condamiue, 568. 
 
 Desterro, 344. 
 
 Diamond- and gold-mines, 448, 462, 463, and Ap- 
 pendix 11, 624. 
 
 Difficulties overcome, 241. 
 
 Discoveries of new species of fish by Agassiz, Ap- 
 pendix J, 627. 
 
 Diseases in Brazil, 417, and Appendix F, 609. 
 
 Distinguished men, 373. 
 
 Dom Joao VI., 64, 69. 
 
 Dom Pedro I., 69, 71, 73-85. 
 
 Dom Pedro II., 231-250. 
 
 Dr. Kane and Lieut. Strain, 459. 
 
 Education, 16.3, 176, 178. 
 
 El Dorado, 564. 
 
 Emigrants" instructions, terms, ic, 333, 592. 
 
 Emperor of Prazil, 231-250. 
 
 his remarkable talents, 232. 
 on board an American steamer, 235. 
 Emperor's birthday, 491. 
 English Cemetery, 201. 
 :bapel, 202. 
 engineer, 318. 
 Enslavement of the Indians, 368. 
 Espiritu Santo, 4R5. 
 
 Events after abdication of Dom Pedro I., 213. 
 Excursions, 207. 
 
 Exhibition of Uaited States manufactures, 239. 
 E.xpenses of travelling, 6, 295. 
 Exploration of rivers, 463, 502. 
 Extent of the empire, 433. 
 Extraordinary fanaticism of Sebastianists, 520. 
 
 Fallen forest, .338. 
 
 Falls of Itamarity, 435. 
 
 Family re<reatiuus, 175. 
 
 Feijo, Bishop, senator and regent, 216, 380. 
 
 Finest steam-voyage in the world, 198. 
 
 Fire-flics, 233. 
 
 Firsi Protestant church in America, 54. I 
 
 First steamer at Coimbra (Upper Paraguay), 459 
 Fish on the Amazon, Appendix J, 627. 
 
 on the Madeira, 556. 
 Forest flowers and scenery, 277. 
 Foundling Hospital, 113. 
 Fourth of July in an English family, 426. 
 Frade Vasconcellos, 357. 
 French in Brazil, 54, 62. 
 Funerals, 203. 
 Furquim d'Almeida's speech, 594. 
 
 Gigantic fig-tree, 437. 
 
 Gillmer, 484. 
 
 Godin, Madame, 56S. 
 
 Goyaz, province of, 453, 454. 
 
 Great ant-eater. 445. 
 
 Guaran4, Preface to Sth Edition. 
 
 Happy valley, 287. 
 
 Heath, Mr., 284. 
 
 Heaven of the moon, 357. 
 
 Herds and herdsmen, 348. 
 
 Herndon's explorations, 574. 
 
 Historical and Geographical Institute, 261. 
 
 Historical data, 369. 
 
 Hollanders in Brazil, 481. 
 
 Home-life, 163, 169. 
 
 Homeward bound, 423. , 
 
 Hospitalities of a padre, 385. 
 
 Hospitals, 107-123. 
 
 Huguenots, 54. 
 
 Humming-bird, 484. 
 
 Hunter, Hon. William, 227. 
 
 Image factory, 494. 
 Immediate reforms needed, 589. 
 Imperial Academy of Fine Arts, 261. 
 
 marriages, 229. 
 Improvements of Recife, 514. 
 Incorrect judgments, 310. 
 Indian archery, 558. 
 
 revolution at Para, 543 
 Indians, 351, 470. 
 India rubber, 552. 
 In puris naturalibus, 498. 
 
 Jacana, 572. 
 
 Jaguar, or Brazilian tiger, 445, 557. 
 
 Jangada, 525. 
 
 Journals of Rio, 253. 
 
 Journey to San Paulo, 354. 
 
 Judge Petit's description of Maranham, 533, 634. 
 
 Keel-bill, 437. 
 
 Lady's impressions of travel, 273. 
 
 Lasso, 349. 
 
 Law students and convents, 361. 
 
 Limeira. 402. 
 
 Lingoa Geral, 471. 
 
 Literature, 251, 588. 
 
 Lodging and sleeping, 395. 
 
 Longfellow, Hawthorne, and Webster, 249. 
 
Index. 
 
 639 
 
 Long river-route to Atlantic, 456. 
 Lopez and Paraguay, 352. 
 
 Machado, Alvares, 377. 
 
 Magnificence of nature, 539. 
 
 Mandioca, 189. 
 
 Maranliam, city of, 533. 
 
 Marmoset, 510. 
 
 Martyn, Henry, 486, 487. 
 
 Matto Grosso, 456. 
 
 Mawe's experience, 362. 
 
 Medical schools, 180, 490. 
 
 Mexico and Brazil compared, 77. 
 
 Mines and other resources of Minas Geraes, 448. 
 
 Miracle explained, 495. 
 
 Missionary efforts iu San Paulo, 386. 
 
 Montaria, 538. 
 
 Montserrat, 498. 
 
 Mulatto improvisator, 272. 
 
 Museum, 266. 
 
 Musical cart, 447. 
 
 innkeeper, 426. 
 
 Natal, 527. 
 
 National library, 259. 
 
 Navigation on Paraguay, 459. 
 
 New disease, 416. 
 
 New York Historical Society, 237. 
 
 Night among the lowly, 398, 399. 
 
 Night travelling, 354. 
 
 Night with a boa-constrictor, 403. 
 
 Nova Friburgo, 295. 
 
 Old Congo's spurs, 397. 
 Omnibus, 38, 42. 
 Opening of Parliament, 211. 
 Orchidaceous plants, 341. 
 Organ Mountains, 277. 
 their height, 282. 
 Origin of Indian civilization, 467. 
 Overthrow of Rosas, 351. 
 
 Paca, 446. 
 
 Palace of viceroys, 27. 
 
 S. Christoviio, 248. 
 Palm-tree and its uses, 468, 469. 
 Pard, 540, 551, 560. 
 Paraguay tea, or mat6, 321, 
 Parahiba do Norte, 526. 
 Parallel to the Black Hole of Calcutta, 545. 
 Parana, province of, 326. 
 
 first president of, 321. 
 Paula Souza's letter to American emigrants, 592. 
 Paviola, 527. 
 Pedro 11. Railway, 302. 
 Peixe-boi, 555. 
 
 Pennsylvanian in Brazil, 402. 
 Pernambuco, 515. 
 
 commerce of, 521. 
 
 houses of, 515. 
 Peter Parley in Brazil, 439. 
 Petrojjulis, oUl. 
 
 Pizarro, Gon9alo, 563. 
 
 Plan of colonization, 412, 413. 
 
 Plant, Nathaniel, 347, 607, 609. 
 
 Plantation in Minas Geraes, 438. 
 
 Plantation orchestra, 441, 442. 
 
 Ponte da Area, 192. 
 
 Population of interior, 522. 
 
 Porters, 476. 
 
 Portuguese language and literature, 588. 
 
 Praia Grande, 187. 
 
 Probable extension of tea-culture in America, 422. 
 
 Produce of Amazon, 553. 
 
 Proposition to abolish celibacy, 381. 
 
 Provincial revolts, 351. 
 
 Purtis River, 502. 
 
 Railroads. 299, 302, 365. 
 
 Religious disabilities, 594, and Appendix I, 625. 
 
 Republic of Palmiires, 512. 
 
 Respect for San Paulo, 364. 
 
 Reverses of .Jesuits, 368. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro, 21. 
 
 Bay of, 15, 51. 
 
 capital of Brazil, 187. 
 
 City Improvements Company, 89. 
 
 Custom-IIouse, 30. 
 
 early condition, 61. 
 
 Exchange, 28. 
 
 founded, 58. 
 
 historic reminiscences, 14. 
 
 journals, 251. 
 
 libraries, 259. 
 
 literary and scientific societies, 220. 
 
 markets, 170. 
 
 municipal government, 124. 
 
 paving, 4.3, 87, 106. 
 
 public promenade, 41. 
 
 squares, 25, 38, 211. 
 
 Rua Direita, 27. 
 Ouvidor, 36. 
 
 schools, 177. 
 
 splendid views, 19, 22, 88, 192, 205. 
 
 " tigers," 89. 
 
 under the viceroys, 63. 
 Rio Grande do Norte, 527. 
 Rio Grande do Sul, 347. 
 Romantic life of a naturalist, 404. 
 Russian vessels in limbo, 317. 
 
 Sabbath observance, 188. 
 Saint Catherine's, 346. 
 Saint Vincent, 312. 
 San Domingo, 187. 
 San Francisco do Sul, 325. 
 San Paulo, 361. 
 
 history of, 366. 
 San Sebastian, 307. 
 Sanitary condition of Brazil, 12a. 
 Santo Aleixo, '271. 
 Santos, 309. 
 Schools, 177 
 School-teacher, 335. 
 Sebastianists, 520. 
 
640 
 
 Index. 
 
 Senhor Josfi and a little difficulty, 534, 525. 
 
 Serra do Cubitao, 355. 
 
 Sertanejo and market-scene, 52-1. 
 
 Shells and Imttei-flies, 346. 
 
 Sketch of the A'ergueiros, 407. 
 
 Skilful negroes, 498. 
 
 Slavery, 132. 
 
 Slave-trade, 483. 
 
 Societies, 261. 
 
 Southern provinces, 303. 
 
 Sijeculations in town-lots, 279. 
 
 Star-Spangled Banner, 426. 
 
 Statesmen of Brazil, 186. 
 
 Stingless bees and sour honey, 455. 
 
 Sugar and cotton mart, 525. 
 
 Survey of the La Plata, 467. 
 
 Sweet lemons, 439. 
 
 Swiss bachelors, 287. 
 
 Sydney Smith's '' Immortal," 273. 
 
 Tapioca, 191. 
 
 Tapir, 288. 
 
 Tasso gold-mine. Appendix H, 624. 
 
 Temperature and periodical rains, 530, 531. 
 
 Terrestrial paradise, 367. 
 
 Thermometrical tables of Kio de Janeiro and 
 
 Para, Appendix K, 634. 
 Tijuca, 205. 
 
 Todd's Students' Manual, 2S7. 
 ToUing-bell bird, 331. 
 
 Toucan, 291. 
 
 Travelled trunk, 329. 
 
 Tropeiros, .360. 
 
 Tupi Guarani, 470. 
 
 Turtles and turtle-egg butter, 556. 
 
 Ubatuba, 305. 
 Umbrella-bird, 559. 
 
 United States and Brazil mail steamers, 197, and 
 Appendix L, 636. 
 
 Valencia, 498. 
 Vampire bat, 504, 503, 506. 
 Vergueiro, 378. 
 Vesper hours, 442. 
 Victoria Kegia, 571. 
 View from Inga, 192. 
 Village cemetery, 339. 
 Visionary hotel-keeper, 365. 
 Visit to Feijo, 380. 
 Volcano, Appendix J, 633. 
 
 White ants obedient to the Church, 443. 
 Wonderful image of St. Anthony, 494, 496. 
 Wreck of the frigate Thetis, 4&1. 
 
 Yankee Doodle, 47. 
 Ybecaba, 407. 
 Youth rcPiwed, 239. 
 Ypiranga, 361. 
 
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