Hl 1 :: T' Tier?*, '.' ' . > : ,?' ; ; ' ' i ', n ? f. Towo and Neigbboyrbood Witi . THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. LUDLOW Town and Neighbourhood. A SERIES OF SKETCHES OF ITS SCENERY. ANTIQUITIES, GEOLOGY, ETC., DRAWN & DESCRIBED IN PEN AND INK. BY OLIVER BAKER, FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF PAINTER-ETCHERS (LONDON) MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTISTS (BIRMINGHAM) WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN F AC-SI MILE FROM SKETCHES HY THE AUTHOR. Third Edition. LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & Co. LUDLOW : G. WOOLLEY, 42, BULL RING. 1906. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] AUTHOR'S PREFACE TO 1888 EDITION. SOME few years ago, whilst making additions to Wright's " Ludlow Guide " for Mr. Woolley, I undertook at his request to write and illustrate a more ambitious work, which has eventually taken the shape of the present volume. Its general plan was adopted, for the sake of brevity and to avoid the tedious repetitions to which topographical books are so liable. The purely historical portion has been only slightly treated, for several reasons. The documents which would have been essential to a serious historical treatise are bulky and numerous ; it would have been easy to fill the book, or a much larger one, with deeds, charters, and churchwardens' accounts ; but apart from the diffi- culties as to space, they would have been to some extent out of place in a popular work. Many of these have been already published, and I have met people who collected them but never anyone who read them. There was not much room, therefore, for original research in the historical branch of the subject, except where it was possible, by the examination of existing buildings, to throw light on their past, as for instance in the case of Bromfield Priory, in which important events at and subsequent to the Reformation are traced from the existing remains, appar- ently for the first time. This was a field which had remained comparatively untouched. I regret that in the case of the Guild College, I discovered the most interesting remains too late to insert more than a very slight notice of them. The large fourteenth-century window at the back of Church Street (which has low transoms and wooden shutters, showing it to be domestic work) would have been worth describing in detail. 884.^78 In conclusion, I have to ask the indulgence of those who may think the point of view I have taken that of the sketcher and the archaeologist an unpractical one. It is not so in reality. The fact is, that stronger language than mine might be used in condemnation of the heedless vandalism which in some cases is robbing us of our lawful heritage. This is sometimes done by people who have no excuse for not knowing better, under the plea of "' restoration," which often amounts to actual rebuilding. I have to acknowledge kind und valuable help from many friends who showed an interest in the work I under- took ; and especially to Miss E. Smith of Ludford, Mr. Edwin Smith, and the late R. K. Penson, Esq., my thanks are due ; also to the Rev. J. D. La Touche for looking over the geological chapter. O.B. EDGBASTON, 1888. PUBLISHER'S PREFACE TO 1906 EDITION. The aim of this work is to present in a popular and readable shape an accurate account of the Ludlow district, and of the objects of historical interest with which it abounds. In entrusting it to Mr. Oliver Baker, I felt that his artistic and archaeological qualifications, and his intimate acquaintance with the locality, well fit him for the task of dealing with a neighbourhood whose claim to attention rests so completely on its scenery and antiquities. The Pictorial Illustrations form an important feature, Mr. Baker having made sixty-seven special sketches for them, which have been reproduced in fac-simile by the eminent process-engravers, the Typographic Etching Com- pany, of London. If it reveals " the rich mine of good things " that " Ludlow and its Neighbourhood " is "to the Antiquary, Artist, Amateur Photographer, Naturalist, Geologist, Lover of Nature, and the jaded man of business," in far wider circles than hitherto, my ambition and aim in publishing this volume describing in " black-and-white " one of the most interesting and picturesque towns and localities in England, will find ample reward. The 4to Subscription edition published in 1888, and the 8vo edition of 1889, have been out of print for some time. To meet the demand for copies by the public, I have reprinted the edition of 1889, with all the original illustrations. I heartily thank the Press and the Public for so kindly receiving the previous editions, and trust in this more handy size it will still enjoy the appreciation of the touring public. CORVE ST., LUDLOW, August, 1906. CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY I CHAPTER II. THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. First Aspect Outer Walls Sally-port Beacon Tower Ex- ternal Walks Gateway Its Origin Leland's Account of the Fitzwarine Romance Its Castellans The Barons' War Its Occupation by the Mortimers By Richard Plantage- net Sacked by the Lancastrians Restored by Edward IV. Prince Arthur Court of Marches The Lords President "Comus " " Hudibras " Parliamentary Siege Decay 4 CHAPTER III. INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE. The Outer Ward Barracks Mortimer's Tower Bridge and Inner Gate The Inner Ward Norman Keep Other Nor- man Work Round Chapel Prince Arthur's Room Great Hall State Apartments . . . . . 1 5 CHAPTER IV. THE PARISH CHURCH. Its Situation South Side First Impression Scene from Churchyard Its History Interior Hexagonal Porch Nave Arcades Aisles Rood Loft Collegiate Stalls Miserere Carvings The Lady-Chapel Its Screen The Font St. John's Chapel Its Screen and Fittings Ancient Glass The Chancel Vestry Sedilia Reredos Treasure Chamber Monuments . . . . . . .23 CHAPTER V. THE TOWN. Remains of the Monasteries The College The Grammar School Barnaby House Dinham Chapel The Town Wall Broad Gate Gaol Butter Cross Corporation Maces Civic Buildings Domestic Architecture Almshouses The Museum ... . . . . . . 48 11. CHAPTER VI. LUDFORD. Ludford Bridge Village Church Monuments to the Foxes and Charltons Ludford House St. Giles's Almshouse Whitcliff . 63 CHAPTER VII. SURROUNDING DISTRICT. Introductory ......... 74 CHAPTER VIII. WALK TO RICHARD'S CASTLE. Huck's Barn Overton Sunny Gutter Moor Park Haye Woods Batchcott The Castle Mound and Ruins Clark's Account Church Boney Well Court House and Dove- cote .......... ?6 CHAPTER IX. WALK TO BROMFIELD, THROUGH OAKLY PARK. Views of Castle Prior's Halton Oakly Park Bromfield Bridge Priory Village Burway . . . . 83 CHAPTER X. WALK TO ORELTON, THROUGH ASHFORD, WOOFFERTON, ETC. Overton Lodge Ashford Hall Mill Ashford Carbonell Ash- ford Bowdler Woofferton Comberton Orleton Court Church 90 CHAPTER XL WALK TO STEVENTON. The River-side Fold Gate Steven ton 95 CHAPTER XII. DRIVE THROUGH WIGMORE, LEINTWARDINE, DOWNTON, ETC. Whitcliff Woods Mary Knowl Comus Valley (Sunny Gutter) Pipe Aston Elton Leinthall Starkes Wigmore Church Castle The Mortimers Abbey Leintwardine Downton-on-the-Rock Limestone Gorge Downton Castle Clungunford ....... 97 111. CHAPTER XIII. DRIVE THROUGH WIGMORE TO AYMESTREY, KINGSLAND, ETC. Wigmore Hall Deerfold Forest Leinthall Earles Croft Arnbrey Gatley Park Aymestrey Mortimer's Cross Shobdon Court Priory Village Kingsland Eyton Yarpole Luc ton Croft Castle -Church Bircher . .no CHAPTER XIV. DRIVE THROUGH STOKE ST. MILBOROUGH TO BROWN CLEE, TITTERSTONE, ETC. Rock Green Dodmore Middleton Crow Leasowe Ascent of Titterstone The Moor Stoke St. Milborough Cold Weston Brown Clee Bouldon Heath Chapel Peaton Corfham Castle Button 121 CHAPTER XV. DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. Corve Bridge Site of Norman Chapel Tumuli on Oldfield Stan ton Lacy Saxon Work Churchyard Tombs Vil- lage Manor-house The Lacys Culmington Elsich Delbury Holgate, &c. Munslow Upper Millichope . 129 CHAPTER XVI. DRIVE THROUGH ASHFORD, CAYNHAM, WHITTON, WHITTON COURT, ETC. Ashford House Caynham Court Camp Church Whitton Court Whitton Chapel Hope Bagot Bitterley Church Henley Hall .138 CHAPTER XVII. RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. River Onny Onibury Craven Arms Newton Stokesay Castle Its History Stokesay Church .... 144 CHAPTER XVIII. RAILWAY EXCURSION TO TENBURY. AND WALKS TO BURFORD. ETC. Woofferton Easton Court Little Hereford Nunupton Up- ton Court Middleton-on-the-Hill Brimfield Tenbury Church Tombs St. Michael's Burford Tombs Knigh- ton-on-Teme . . . . . . . . 154 CHAPTER XIX. GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD ..... 163 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Doorway to Norman Chapel, Ludlow Castle .... I The Butter Cross, from a side street, Ludlow .... 2 Ancient Corporate Seal, Ludlow ...... 3 Ludlow Castle, from the North ...... 4 Castle, from the River above Ludlow ..... 7 The Keep and Inner Moat, Ludlow Castle. (By the late Harry Baker) 16 Gateway to Inner Ward, Ludlow Castle. . . . .17 Doorway to Keep, Ludlow Castle . . . . . 19 Ground Plan of Ludlow Castle . . . . . .21 Ludlow Castle, from the Meadows . . . . . .22 Parish Church and Old House in Churchyard . . . .24 Doorway to Old House in Churchyard . . . . .26 Rood Screen and Stalls, Ludlow Church . . . .30 Miserere Carving, Ludlow Church . . . . . .32 Screen of the Lady-Chapel, and South Transept, Ludlow Church 37 Sedilia and Piscina, Ludlow Church . . . . -39 Easter Sepulchre and Towneshend Tomb, Ludlow Church . 43 Plan of the Town, showing the Old Wall . . . . 4- The Grammar School, from Mill Street, Ludlow . . -52 The Broad Gate, Ludlow 55 Ludlow " Corporation Insignia " . . . . . -57 The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow . . . .' . 58 Arms in Lane's Hospital, Ludlow . . . . . .62 Ludford Bridge, from the foot of Whitcliff . . . .63 Ludford Bridge from below ....... 64 The Teme from the Whitcliff Quarries . . . . .66 Porch of Oratory, Ludford House . . . . .70 The Old Bell Inn, Ludford 71 The Teme under Whitcliff 72 The Bull Inn Yard, Ludlow 73 Norman Font, Holgate ....... 74 V. Richard's Castle Church ........ 78 Porch, Richard's Castle Church ...... 80 The Court House, and Dove-cote, Richard's Castle . . .81 Druid Oaks, Oakly Park 83 Bromfield Priory from the River . . . . . .85 Priory Gate House, Bromfield . . . . . .87 Gateway, Bromfield Priory, from the Road . . . .89 Vesica Window and Norman Lights, Ashford Carbonell Church 9 1 Churchyard Cross at Orleton ...... 92 Pulpit and Chancel Arch, Orleton. . . . . -93 Cottage at Leinthall Starkes. ...... 94 Old Fireplace, Steventon ....... 96 Norman Tympanum, Pipe Aston. (From Wright's " History ofLudlow") ........ 98 Wigmore, from the Park ....... 99 Gatehouse to Wigmore Abbey . . . . . .102 The Teme at Downton . ....... 107 Croft Castle . . . . . . . . .119 Dodmore . . . . . . . . . .122 The Heath Chapel. (From Wright's " History of Ludlow ") 125 Interior of the Heath Chapel. ,, ..... 126 Saxon Doorway at Stan ton Lacy . . . . . .128 Tombs of the Lacys, Stanton Lacy . . . . .130 Culmington Church . . . . . . . .133 Elsich Manor House . . . . . . . -135 Old Sun-dial, Munslow . . . . . . .137 Triple Arch, Caynham Church . . . . . '139 Whitton Court ......... 140 Churchyard Cross, Bitterley. . . . . . .142 Norman Font, Bitterley . . . . . .143 Stokesay Castle and Church. . . . . . .145 Stokesay Castle from the Churchyard . . . . .146 Doorway of Great Hall, Stokseay ...... 148 Great Hall, Stokesay ... .... 150 Entrance Gate, Stokesay ....... 152 Heart Shrine, Tenbury . . . . . . .157 Tomb of Princess Elizabeth, Burford . . . . .160 Perpendicular Font, Burford ...... 162 Pentamerus Knightii . . . . . . .168 DOORWAY TO NORMAN CHAPEL, LUDLOW CASTLE. LuDiowTowN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. IN a modern work on English antiquities, Ludlow is spoken of as " the Queen of our inland watering-places." Though not too strong as a term of praise, this statement is to a great extent misleading, as in the ordinary acceptation of the phrase Ludlow is not a watering-place at all. But to the dweller in crowded cities, to the jaded man of business, to the antiquary, artist, amateur photographer, naturalist, geologist, or lover of nature, it is something a great deal better. To all these the place is a rich mine of good things, but it is not a watering-place ; and for those who seek crowded hotels and brass bands its beauties are not revealed. 2 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Like most things that turn out well, it is a trifle disappoint- ing at first the visitor arriving by rail has no preparation in the approach to the town, or in the first aspect of the place itself, for the actual wealth of beauty and interest that await him, and it is only on closer acquaintance that he will fully realise it. THE BUTTER CROSS, FROM A SIDE- STREET, LUDLOW. Then he will find that the town is grouped on the summit of a bold mass of Ludlow rock, that rises at the lower end of a flat and fertile plain. On three sides it is nearly INTRODUCTORY. 3 isolated from the neighbouring hills by the rivers Teme and Corve, and on the fourth it gradually merges into a spur of the Clee range. On the side towards the plain, where the rock is precipitous, stand the church and castle crown- ing the summit, the one with its tall and graceful tower, and the other with roofless and crumbling turrets and ivy-covered walls, which still defy the ravages of time, and show an outline against the sky nearly as grand as when they sheltered the Court of the Prince of Wales. The ridge is fortified along its whole outline in continuation of the churchyard and castle walls, but only one gate-tower remains, and that on the sloping side. The old town, confined within these walls, only covered the upper part of the mound, but in later times the houses have over- flowed nearly to the water's edge, and on the east particu- larly, nearly all the recent growth of the town has extended. Though ancient enough in appearance, it is even more so in reality ; numbers of the houses which show a neat front of brick or stucco, being old within, and often possess early fireplaces, panelling, or staircases, quite unsuspected from the outside. ANCIENT CORPORATE SEAL, LUDLOW. LUDLOW CASTLE, FROM THE NORTH. CHAPTER II. THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. First Aspect Outer Walls Sally-port Beacon Tower Ex- ternal Walls Gateway Its Origin Leland's Account of the Fitzwarine Romance Its Castellans The Barons' War Its Occupation by the Mortimers By Richard Plantage- net Sacked by the Lancastrians Restored by Edward IV. Prince Arthur Court of Marches The Lords President " Comus " " Hudibras " Parliamentary Siege Decay. OCCUPYING the post of honour, the Castle is the first point to which every stranger directs his steps. Probably the first glimpse he will get of the object of his search will be when reaching the open square, where the old red Market House stood, he sees its high outer walls and nail-studded gate among the tall elms, which, planted more than a hundred years since in the filled-up moat, now make a green wall of foliage round two sides of the first courtyard. And though few sights are more picturesque than this same scene on market days, when the square is filled with the stalls of the country people, who converge to this spot from every direction, yet there is nothing in the first glimpse greatly to raise his hopes or to gratify any high expecta- THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. 5 tions he has already formed of this celebrated ruin. The entrance arch, flanked by projecting buttresses, is grim enough, but the gate-tower is too much shattered with age to be at all striking, and the walls near it are without character. But if he will turn to the right, through an iron wicket, down a wide gravel path, once part of the moat, and past a square tower without windows or even loops, he will see, behind large trees, a more considerable block of towers, with a fine chimney ; and when he reaches the trees, where the old town wall, on his right, ends, he will begin to realise the unrivalled beauty and boldness of its site. For between their trunks a prodigious prospect opens out, stretching from the foot of the hill, across fields, and farms, and woods, for miles. Behind him, at the base of the walls, is a small outwork, built out on a mass of ' Ludlow ' rock, and by clambering round it he can reach a very curious little sally-port, which the outwork was doubtless intended to cover. The door still remains, and is protected in a unique manner with slabs of stone bolted to the woodwork, and iron plates over them, which would resist an attack of fire for a long time. Below the sally-port the path turns to the left, and, emerging from the trees, brings suddenly into view one of the main blocks of towers which, lifting their massive shapes into the sky, compel our admiration and awe, defy- ing as they have done the attacks of man or " the wreckful siege of battering days " to reduce them. From the beacon-cresset on the topmost battlements to the great drain openings at the foot, where it is difficult to distinguish the masonry from the solid rock, the whole of this stupen- dous mass is full of the most varied and interesting detail, and clothed with lichens and wallflowers and weeds on every ledge and cranny. The curtain wall beyond is pierced by the tall and graceful windows of the Great Hall, often called the Comus Room, from the performance therein of Milton's celebrated Masque. The path continues round the walls, commanding fine views over the meadows below, with the river its current stilled by mill- weirs lower down flowing sluggishly through them. The castle on the one hand and the view of distant country on the other con- tinually arrest the attention, until the path passing through an avenue of fine trees, the one is nearly hidden and the other completely lost. Here the path divides, one branch LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. descending steeply to the Castle Mill in the road below, and the other going straight through the avenue. These walks were laid out, and the trees which add so greatly to their beauty planted in 1772 by the Countess of Powis. Of course the stern and defensive appearance of the place has thereby been reduced, but they are a great additional charm, and a source of much health and pleasure to hun- dreds of inhabitants and visitors. By keeping to the upper one, we emerge through enormous wych-elms into an open space level with the castle wall, where an archway has been cut through it near its junction with that defend- ing the town. Passing through the arch, on the left is a large fragment of building, once the court-house. Another modern archway admits into the area of the old moat, now level with the street. Passing under the trees, populous with colonies of rooks, the visitor will find he has com- pleted the circuit of the castle, eleven acres in extent, and arrived once more at the entrance. Let him lift the latch boldly no warder now to challenge and enter the outer court. HISTORY. But before examining in detail the massive ruins that lie before him, it will be well to glance, in a manner neces- sarily brief, at the long series of brilliant events which make up their history, and to enumerate a few of the great men whose names are linked with their varying fortunes. Great obscurity hangs over the castle's first foundation, and learned authorities have differed as to the identity of its original builder ; but it is almost certain that Roger de Lacy, who held the estate from Osborne Fitz Richard, erected at the end of the eleventh century the keep tower. This Roger rebelled against William II., and later, on the death of his brother Hugh, it became the property of the Crown. Henry I. granted it to Pagan Fitz John, who was slain by the Welsh in 1136. A romance of the first part of the thirteenth century* which gives a history of the Fitz- warine family, states that in the reign of Stephen the castle was held by one Joce de Dinan, who " made the Castle of three wardes, and surrounded it with a double foss, one within and one without." It appears that * Wright's " History of Ludlow." 1852. THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. CASTLE, FROM THE RIVER ABOVE LUDLOW. Stephen had seized the estate of Fitz John, and placed as castellan in Ludlow, Joce de Dinan. Joce was in rebellion in 1139, and Stephen, accompanied by Prince Henry of Scotland, unsuccessfully laid siege to the castle. It was during this siege that Prince Henry, approaching too near, 8 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. was siezed by a grappling machine thrown from the wall, and was being dragged away when King Stephen rode up, and saved him by severing the cords with his sword. From a thirteenth century history of Wigmore Abbey,* by a monk of that house, we learn that " there arose at this time a very great war between Sir Hugh de Mortimer (of Wigmore) and Sir Joce de Dinan. Insomuch that this same Joce could not freely, or at his pleasure, enter or quit his castle for fear of Sir Hugh, so pertinaciously the latter pursued him. And because Joce could avail nothing against him by force, he set spies along the road where he heard Sir Hugh was to pass unattended, and took him and held him in his castle in prison till he had paid his ransom of 3,000 marks of silver, besides all his plate, horses, and hawks." In the above-mentioned romance his place of imprisonment is spoken of as " the highest tower in the third bailey, which is called to this day Mortimer's." Of this romance the following is Leland's account, given in his " Collectanea," under the head " Thinges excerptid out of an old Englisch boke yn ryme of the Gestes of Guarine & his sunnes Guarine wedded Mellet & had a sunne caulid Fulco. Joos, a knight, was left as governor to young Fulco. Guarine & he defendid his lands agayne one Walter, the greatest of the marche lorde oute of Lacy & Ludlow. They met at a bent by Bourne, at a brydge ende a little from Ludlow. Joos bare a sheld of sylver with thre blew lyons coronid with gold. Joos had a daughter caullid Hawise, whom Fulco entirely loved, & seying her in great dolour, askid the cause of her sorrow, & she answered that it was no matter for an hauker to amende ;. & he upon that toke his sworde and spere to rescew Joos. her father, as one Godarde was about to streke of his hede ; so that Godarde was slayne of him, & Gwalter Lacy dryven away. Then Joos recovered a horse & sore woundid Syr Arnold that did hym much hurt. Then Fulco killid one Andrew, a knight longging to Syr Walter Lacy. Gwalter Lacy & Syr Arnold were taken prisoners, & put in the Castle of Ludlow in a prison caullid Pendower. A gentil- woman caullid Marion deliverid both these knights by treason oute of Pendower for love of Syr Arnolde de Lis, one of them that promised her falsely marriage. Fulco Guarine wedded Hawise, daughter to Joos, at Ludlow "Wright's History of Ludlow," 1852. THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. o/ Castel. Joos & Fulco Guarine toke a journey into Ireland ; Marion tarried, faining sickness, behind, & write a lettre to her lovre Syr Arnold de Lis, to cum secretly to her up into the Castel with a ladder of leder & cordes. Arnold came according to Marion's desier, & had his pleasure of her ; & sone after came his band, & secretly scalinge the walls, killed the castellanes. Then Marion, seeing this treason, lept out of a tower & brake her neck ; * & Arnold killed after many of the burgesses of Ludlow towne, sparing neither widow nor child. Walter Lacy hearing that the castel was won, cam with his band thither, & mannid & vitailid Ludlow, keeping it as his owne. This tidings was told to Joos lying at Lamborne. Joos & Fulco, & his father Guarine, cam to rescue Ludlow, & in assaulting it killid many of Lacy's men. Lacy, with a band of men, cam oute to fight with them, but he losing many men, was fayne to recoyle within the toune. Gualter Lacy sent to the Prince of Wales for help, & he cam wynning by the way, Whitington. Fulco Guarine hurte the prince of Wales in the shoulder & drave hym to a castel caullid Cayhome, where Cay had been lorde, there asseging by three days killid many of them at a certen issue. Fulco was wounded, & yet roode to mete King Henry by Gloscestre, of whom he was welle intertaynid as his kinnesman, & there he had his wounde that Arnold's brother gave hym in the waste welle helid. King Henry made Fulco a knight & steward of his house, & lord & governor of thos marches." It has been made clear, however, by Mr. Eyton, the historian of Shropshire, that portions of this story are not in accord with the real history of the castle, which after the death of Joce in 1166, was restored by Henry II. to Hugh de Lacy. The growing power in Ireland of this Hugh led Henry again to seize the castle in 1181, and he granted the estates of Hugh, after his assassination in Ireland, to Walter, his son, retaining the castle, which, however, Walter regained in 1206, on paying 400 marks to King John. In 1207 it was again taken by John, and handed over to William de Braose. It was for a time in charge of Philip de Albini, and then of Thomas de Erdington. In 1214 John ordered Ingeram de Cygoine to restore the castle to Walter de Lacy. In 1224 Walter gave it up to William de * In Wright's translation she first kills Sir Arnold with his own sword while he was asleep. 10 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Gammages. It was afterwards held by Peter de Geneva, who married Matilda de Lacy, one of the grand-daughters of Walter. Peter made over the constableship to William de Lacy in 1234. Peter died in 1249, and his widow married Geoffrey de Genville, who next held the castle. Peter de Genville, their son, held it in 1292. During the Barons' War the castle and neighbourhood was the scene of prolonged turmoil, in which the king, the barons, and the Welsh took a leading part, and which continued till the victory of Henry at Evesham, after which comparative tranquility seems to have reigned, broken occasionally by the local squabbles of the Lords Marchers, among whom the Mortimers were the most prominent and powerful. They added Ludlow to their other great possessions by the marriage of Roger to Joan de Genville, daughter and heiress of Peter. Roger Mortimer, his son, received Edward III. in his Castles of Ludlow and Wigmore. After his attainder and execution, his son Edmund recovered this and other castles in 1354, and the estates passed out of the family on the death of this Edmund, the last Mortimer, in 1424, and into the hands of his nephew, Richard Plan- tagenet, Duke of York, who selected it as his chief place of residence, and when, thirty years later, he involved himself in intrigues for the possession of the throne, he twice found it necessary to retreat here, and raise an army among his tenantry. But on the second occasion he was defeated and taken prisoner by Henry VI. Having afterwards been appointed Protector by the House of Commons and again making war on the royal party, he had, in 1459, fortified himself at Ludford, where he was joined by the army of Lord Salisbury, returning victorious from Bloreheath. He had repulsed one attack by the king's army on the I3th of October, and had planned a surprise in which they would have been almost certain of success, when he was deserted by his principal officer and the troops under him. In this position he broke up the camp and fled to Ireland. The Lancastrians thus having Ludlow at their mercy, revenged themselves for the support it had always given, to the House of York by sacking it and the castle. The duke's eldest son, Edward, Earl of March, now came forward, and revived the cause of the Yorkists by his courageous and able tactics. Having defeated the king at the battle of Northampton, his father, hearing of his THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. n success, hastened to England, and laid claim to the crown, but was defeated and killed at Wakefield, and his second son murdered. Edward was here, at Ludlow, when the news reached him, and immediately prepared to attack the victors ; but was recalled by the advance of an Irish and Welsh army under the Earl of Pembroke. They fought at Mortimer's Cross, a little south of Ludlow, and Edward was again victorious. Shortly afterwards, march- ing on London, he was proclaimed king, as Edward IV. in 1461. Ludlow, whose fortunes had suffered with those of the Yorkists, shared abundantly in their prosperity. From this time the castle became the palace of the Prince of Wales, the seat of the Council of the Marches, and the centre of government for the whole Border. In the first year of his reign the king granted an extended charter to the town, which greatly advanced its prosperity, in consideration of " the laudable and gratuitous services which our beloved and faithful subj ects the burgesses of the town have rendered unto us in the obtaining of our right to the crown of England, for a long time past withheld from us and our ancestors, in great peril of their lives, and also the rapines, depredations, oppressions, losses of goods, and other grievances, for us and our sake', in divers ways brought upon them by certain of our competitors." Eleven years after, the king sent his two eldest sons, under the guardianship of their uncle, Earl Rivers, to Ludlow Castle, where they remained until the death of Edward IV., when they were taken to London, and murdered in the Tower by order of their uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. In the reign of Charles II. their remains were discovered, and re-interred in Westminster Abbey. The stirring events of Richard's reign are many of them connected with the locality, though not with the town itself. On the accession of Henry VII., after the battle of Bos- worth, he made considerable efforts to restore order and judicial authority to the Marches, placing his son Arthur, the Prince of Wales, at the castle, and paying visits to him there up till the prince's death, in 1502. On the death of Prince Arthur, who nominally presided at the Council instituted by Edward IV., a regular Court was established by Henry VII., under a permanent Lord President. As to the origin of this Court of Marches, 12 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. which for so many years made Ludlow a sort of metropolis to the Welsh Border, a few words may not be at this point out of place. It was due in the first instance to the exis- tence of the ancient and almost unlimited authorities of the Lords Marchers an authority which had its origin in a local condition of affairs during the Norman dynasty, and the political exigencies of various kings of that and later periods. Not only because the conquest of Wales was an important feautre in their programme, but quite as much for the sake of occupying the attention of a warlike and quarrelsome nobility, in directions convenient to themselves, those princes encouraged their barons in the dangerous enterprise of making settlements and seizing territory on the Welsh side of the Border. To enable them to hold the territories they had conquered, this encouragement took the form of giving them complete and independent juris- diction in their several domains ; so that each Lord Marcher, except those of Glamorgan who met in one court at Cardiff had his own court, where he administered the English law, allowing at the same time, from motives of prudence, many of the native laws and customs of the people he had conquered. This authority of the Marchers was not held under any grant from the Crown, being simply connived at for the time, and no doubt was useful enough in holding in check the turbulent people who had so often devastated the Border. But in more civilised times it became necessary to reduce this primitive state of things to better order, and efforts in this direction were made by Henry III. and Henry V., but it was not before the accession of Edward IV. that, as mentioned above, the Council of the Marches was established at Ludlow. Even then the separate jurisdiction of the old Lords Marchers was not altogether superseded, and many feuds and conflicting authorities were the result. But the vigorous policy of Henry VII. finally put an end to this, and set up a per- manent court, under a Lord President, the first to hold the office being William Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, and founder of Brasenose College. His successors, were Geoffrey Blyth, Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield ; John Veysey, Bishop of Exeter ; and Bishop Lee of Coventry and Lichfield, whose presidency was signalised by many reforms and extremely zealous administration of justice, leaving the Welsh Border in a condition of peace and prosperity. Richard Sampson THE CASTLE : ITS EXTERIOR AND HISTORY. 13 followed him in the presidency and bishopric in 1543. In 1548, the Duke of Northumberland ; William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, 1550 ; Richard Heath, Bishop of Worcester, 1553 ; William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, again, 1556 ; Gilbert Bourne, Bishop of Bath and Wells, who was imprisoned on the accession of Elizabeth ; Sir John Williams, who died at Ludlow, following him. In his place the celebrated Sir Henry Sidney of Penshurst was appointed, in 1559, whose administration, lasting twenty- seven years, is memorable for the great works he accom- plished, and the extreme zeal and prudence with which he regulated the district. His even more distinguished son, Sir Philip Sidney, was resident here during most of his father's tenure of office. In the British Museum is a paper describing the " Build- ings and reparacions don by Sir Hy. Sidney upon hr Ma ties howses in the Marches of Wales " referring to Ludlow and Wigmore. Henry Herbert, Earl of Pembroke followed for fourteen years ; Lord Zouch, 1601. Lord Eure, whose wife has an alabaster effigy in the church, does not seem to have shown the same probity as some of his predecessors, as a bond is still in existence between him, as Lord President, and Robert Morgan, Humfrey ap Richard Owen, and Humfrey ap Edward Humfrey, gentle- men, for the payment of 50 to Lord Eure upon his obtaining a grant for the sessions and quarter sessions being held at Harlech. Lord Gerard, 1616 ; Earl of Northampton, 1617 ; Earl of Bridgwater, 1633. On certain adventures en- countered by the latter and his family while passing through the neighbouring Haye Woods, on his arrival, was founded the plot of Milton's celebrated dramatic poem, or masque, " Comus," which was written for the earl, and acted by his children in the great hall of the castle on Michaelmas Night, 1634. Macaulay speaks of this poem as " certainly the noblest of the kind which exists in any language. The speeches must be read as majestic soliloquies, and he who reads them will be enraptured with their eloquence, their sublimity, and their music ; but the finest passages are those which are lyric in form as well as in spirit." Ludlow has through its castle other links of connection with great literary names. Samuel Butler resided here when secretary to the Earl of Carberry (the succeeding Lord President to that last named), who made him steward 14 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. of the castle, where probably a good deal of his great work " Hudibras " was written, in which humorous poem Cromwell and his son, Fleetwood, Desborough, and Prynne, with most of the prominent Puritans, are satirised. An- other name great in literature, though in a very different branch of it to Butler, is associated with this grim old pile that of Richard Baxter, the great Puritan divine. Born in Shropshire, he lived at Ludlow, when about seventeen, as a pupil of the chaplain to the Council. The " Holy Dying " of Bishop Jeremy Taylor was written to console his friend, Lord Carberry, for the death of his wife, who, in her youth, was the Lady Alice Egerton of Milton's " Comus." The position of the castle, especially its nearness to the high rock called Whitcliff, was such as to make it an easy prey to artillery of any great length of range, so that it was far from being the impregnable fortress it had hitherto been held, when the Parliamentary wars began. It held out for some time against the Parliamentary forces, but when seriously invested by Sir William Brereton, in 1646. was compelled to surrender. In 1651 it was dismantled, and the furniture and fittings sold ; the Court of Marches was virtually abolished then, but at the Restoration, being nominally set up again, the Earl of Carberry, the Duke of Beaufort (1672), and Earl of Macclesfield (1687) were Governors. In 1684, the Duke of Beaufort made a Pro- gress through Wales, and the MS. of Thos. Dingley, who accompanied him, show the castle to be still entire and to have been more or less re-furnished. During the popular ferment which preceded the Revo- lution of 1688, the local gentry met and declared for the Prince of Orange, and Lord Herbert seized the castle, and secured in it some adherents of the king. In the next year the Court of Marches was finally abolished, and the castle, though held by a governor for the Crown, was suffered to gradually decay, a process hastened in the reign of George I. by the stripping of the lead from the roofs. Buck, in 1731, describes some of the apartments as entire. CHAPTER III. INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE. The Outer Ward Barracks Mortimer's Tower Bridge and Inner Gate The Inner Ward Norman Keep Other Nor- man Work Round Chapel Prince Arthur's Room Great Hall State Apartments. ON entering the outer ward, we are confronted by a fine- pile of ruins on the other side of the open space. This space has been encroached upon at the right hand by the garden of a private house erected within the walls, and on the left is a row of battlemented ruins of Tudor character, probably barracks and stables (23 on plan). They had coats of arms showing them to be work of the end of the sixteenth century.* But the chief thing which attracts the eye and rivets the attention is the great Norman keep, which, rising on the far side of the inner moat, forms with the Elizabethan bridge which replaced the older draw- bridge, and some subordinate gables near it the chief feature of the main or inner ward. These buildings, being the most vital part of the castle, are placed at the more remote angle of the space, where the rock is steepest and least accessible. Going towards the keep, on the left is Mortimer's Tower (i on plan), which is identified as the place of Mortimer's imprisonment in the I3th century ; but it is, mostly at any rate, of later date, which is accounted for by the statement in the Fitzwarine romance, that the .original Mortimer's Tower " was nearly levelled with the ground " in the struggle between Walter de Lacy and Joce de Dinan. The lower story has a good vaulted ceiling. Still more to the left are buildings erected by Sir H. Sidney as a court-house and record office for the Court of Marches. Reaching the ivy-covered bridge, we see that the windows of the keep have been enlarged in the fifteenth century, except two, which are Norman and very fine. The heavy Gothic arches of the inner gate are before us, and over it the later and lighter work of Sidney, in which is a sculp- tured slab with this inscription under the royal arms : " Anno Domini Millesimo Quingentesimo Octagesimo com- * This carving fell down a few years ago and was allowed to perish. i6 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. THE KEEP AND INNER MOAT, LUDLOW CASTLE. pleto anno regni Illustrissimae ac Serenissimae Reginae, Elizabethae Vicesimo Tertio Currante." And below it, with the arms of Sidney and Elizabeth : " Hominibus Ingratis Loquimini Lapides Anno Regni Reginas Eliza- bethae 23. The 22 year complet of the Presidency of Sir INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE. 17 Henri Sydney, Knight of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, etc., 1581." The motive of this latter portion is said to be found in the thankless work this benefactor of Ludlow performed in Ireland ; though, in that case, why these stones should bear witness to man's ingratitude is not very obvious. GATEWAY TO INNER WARD, LUDLOW CASTLE. THE INNER WARD. The arches on the inner side of this portal are all late Tudor, forming part of Sidney's alterations. Passing under them into the inner court, considerably smaller than the first, and surrounded by much larger buildings, the keep on the left is still the principal feature, and should be first examined. It was the starting point of the original castle, but not, as was generally the case, complete, within itself. Its vaulted basement, entered by a passage and flight of steps, contains two pairs of Norman arches, and has the appearance of having formed, or at least part of it, the earlier chapel of the Norman fortress, the character of the i8 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. work being much plainer than that in the beautiful circular one in the court-yard. It was probably afterwards used as a dungeon. In the thickness of the east wall is a very singular passage, of which there have been many explana- tions, of various degrees of improbability, the most popular being that it was an arrangement for letting loose wild beasts upon the prisoners. It is twelve feet long, and opens at each end by square-headed doorways from the large chamber. As it was obviously part of the original design, and as there are evidences on the vaulting that there was originally a partition wall across the chamber, this passage must have been intended as a communication between the two rooms. The fact that the doors opened inwards towards the passage and were strongly barred on that side, makes it still more curious. It may be that it was designed to enable either half of the chamber to be used as a dungeon. There are two rectangular holes in the vault above, but they are comparatively modern alterations, probably for ventilation. The rooms above are now reached by a doorway made in the fifteenth century (which has some beautiful late panelling), and a flight of steps. Most of the original doors and windows have been re-modelled about the same time. In continuation of these steps, a staircase leads to the top of this tower, which is well worth climbing, as the trouble of the ascent is abundantly re- warded by the magnificent view it commands. Bearing in mind the position of the well, and the circular chapel, and the presence of Norman work in the north- eastern group of buildings, it seems that the later Norman fortress must have included all the ground occupied by the inner court : an unusually large area. Of this chapel only the circular nave remains. It is an exquisite example of twelfth century art, and one of the very few of that shape now remaining. It is entered on the west by a deeply recessed doorway, enriched with chevron, double billet, and other characteristic mouldings. Above a string course of double billets, are three large Norman windows, and below it, two late square-headed openings have been pierced. Round the interior walls is an arcade of fourteen arches, which had in the sixteenth century oak panelling with the coats of arms of successive Lords of Ludlow. The panels may still be seen at the Bull Hotel (in the " Bull Ring "), itself an interesting house. INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE. DOORWAY TO KEEP, LUDLOW CASTLE. 2O LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. The chancel arch of three orders, profusely ornamented with sunk star, chevron, and other mouldings, is supported on each side by four elegant shafts, and now opens into a small bare space, showing the probable extent of the chancel, though it has often been stated that it reached to the east wall of the castle. If it did, it was certainly a later addition. The remaining ruins will be best described by means of the accompanying plan. The square tower in the south- west corner marked (21), which is of Norman workmanship, has the lower story converted into an immense oven, and there are other evidences of its having been the bakery, though the kitchen is at the spot marked (17). In the opposite corner of the space is the well, still of great depth, though dry ; and near it another square tower, also more or less Norman. In the next group, which are all fourteenth century, with a few alterations, the corner one (16) is known, as Prince Arthur's Room, and was so called in the inventory of 1651, when the furniture was sold by the Cromwellian Government. The walls of this tower are pierced with recesses, wall-passages, windows, &c., of the most intricate kind, and are worthy of the closest study. Communicating with it is the Hall (15), frequently called the Comus Room, the shell of which, now roofless and open to the cellars, shows it to have been a beautiful chamber. Entered from the court by an ascending slope (once a flight of marble steps), and a fine pointed arch with graceful mouldings, it is lighted by three tall windows in the outer wall, and two larger ones in the inner, which have their fourteenth century tracery remaining. Between the latter is a smaller six- teenth century insertion. The block at the east end of the hall contained the state apartments. No. 14 was called the banquetting-room, and contains a good fire-place and doorways. The principal rooms beyond (12 and 10) are called the armoury and the " Apartments of the Two Princes " (Edward V. and his brother), but on doubtful authority. It is also stated that the fifteenth century traceried window in the latter room was the scene of the tragic end of Marion de la Bruere ; but obviously without a shadow of probability, as the size of the opening would not allow any one to jump out, and the window was not built for at least two centuries after that event. These rooms are part of a very fine and well-proportioned mass Jround Plan of Ludlow Castle. No. No. 1. Mortimer's Tower. 17. 2. Modern ice-house. 18. 3. Inner moat. 4. Stone bridge of two arches. 19. 5. Buildings erected by Sir Henry Sydney. 20. 6. The porter's lodge. 21. 7. A newel staircase leading to the top ol the Keep. 22. 8. The Chapel. 23. 9. Supposed site of the Choir of the Chapel. i 24. 10. Apartments occupied by the two Princes, sons of I 25. Edward IV. 26. 13. Beacon Tower. 27. 14. The State Apartments. 28. 15. The Hall or Council Room. 29. 16. Prince Arthur's Room. 30. The Kitchen. Probably the original Chapel, afterwards con- verted into a prison. The well, now about eighty-five feet deep. Postern tower. Bakehouse tower. Small Chamber in Keep. Stables, coach-house, &c. [the Town. The principal gateway, leading to the Castle from Modern fire-engine shed. Modern house. Early tower, probably Norman. Modern palisades across the Outer Court. A Sallyport. The Castle Yard, or Outer Court. 22 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. ^..- LUDLOW CASTLE, FROM THE MEADOWS. of towers which stand out from the line of ramparts and rise from the rock, which is itself more than a hundred feet above the river. The one to the east of the group (n) juts out into the inner moat, and, in the lower part, is of Norman work. Near this tower is a built-up doorway in the wall, by means of which, and a plank across the moat, the sally- port already described could be reached. In the outer wall to the north of the gate is a plain square tower (27), which though of very early masonry has no architectural features to identify it. If Norman, it would indicate a very extensive area for the original castle. CHAPTER IV. THE PARISH CHURCH. Its Situation South Side First Impression Scene from Churchyard Its History Interior Hexagonal Porch Nave Arcades Aisles Rood Loft Collegiate Stalls Miserere Carvings The Lady-Chapel Its Screen The Font St. John's Chapel Its Screen and Fittings Ancient Glass The Chancel Vestry Sedilia Reredos Treasure Chamber Monuments . THE traveller will not have been long in Ludlow before becoming aware of its magnificent collegiate church. For seven long miles, up or down the vale, its venerable tower is a landmark in the scene. Arriving by rail, it is the first object that arrests his attention, rising majestically above the roofs and chimneys of the houses that hem it in on almost every side, though of the church itself very little can be seen even from the streets. But if, passing through the Bull Ring, we turn along a narrow passage behind the old building called the Butter Cross, we are close upon it at once so close, indeed, that the walls rise like one sheer cliff of rugged sandstone, and nave and transept and aisle are merged into a mass of confused masonry, weather-beaten and time-worn, but relieved with buttress and pinnacle, and pierced with many windows. Over all, the tall central tower, even more weather-worn and grim, soars above the church, still showing through the stains of centuries rich traceries and sculptured niches, and great belfry windows, round which the jackdaws chatter and whirl. We are standing by the south porch, which, with its mouldered surface and restored quoins and buttresses, presents a curious mixture of picturesque age and formal newness ; if we pass through its elegantly vaulted interior and enter the church, a most impressive scene is before us. Through the long rows of shafted pillars, their dusky forms relieved against the streaming light from the great windows in the lantern, the distant choir and chapels show dimly, and between the tracery of their oaken screens the subdued sparkle of ancient glass. The great half-arches which span the aisles at their eastern ends, and support the transept 24 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. PARISH CHURCH AND OLD HOUSE IN CHURCHYARD. walls, are reared against the tower like huge flying but- tresses, and allow the eye to range at will over the transepts and side chapels. If we move forward into the nave, a long vista opens eastward the entire length of the church, broken only at the chancel arch by the dark mass of the rood-screen, and ended only by the storied panes of the great east window. The impressiveness of the whole is owing in no small degree to the extreme beauty and refinement of the per- vading colour. The ruddy tone of the external walls is here exchanged for a pale yellow-grey, sobered with age, and varied with the broken colour of mortar and time stains, which harmonise well with the rich brown of the woodwork, THE PARISH CHURCH. 25 the warm glow of stained windows, and the sombre tone of the screens and roof timbers. In wealth of colour and glow of light it culminates in the chancel, where the windows of great size and height, and only divided by slender buttresses are all filled with rich glass : that in the east end setting forth the life and martyrdom of the patron saint, St. Lawrence ; and below it is the stone reredos of fine tabernacle-work, gorgeous with colour and gilding. Where the chancel is entered by the groined portal under the rood-loft, the old stalls, from which the brethren of the College of Palmers chanted their daily service, remain in nearly their pristine beauty ; but the sculptured monu- ments beyond them, where groups of effigies lie in stony repose, are not theirs. Whatever memorials may have marked the place of their rest have long since been super- seded by grim Lords Marchers and their stately dames. But they were, perhaps, not less remembered. This noble fabric itself is their monument ; and as we wander under its long arcades and explore its dim recesses, we shall realise more and more what a grand memorial it is. But before examining it in detail, let us turn through the north door into the churchyard, where we shall see the building free from the houses which choke the view on other sides, and realise, in a manner impossible from any other place, the extreme beauty of the site. Here, in the dark avenue of yew-trees, the reigning stillness, in pleasant con- trast to the bustle of the narrow streets so close at hand, is emphasised rather than disturbed by the sleepy echo of the church clock chiming the quarters, and the intermittent clang of the jackdaws that float far above in aerial evolu- tions, circling in noisy clamour round the tower, or sunning themselves in secure enjoyment of the square putlock holes so invariably left by the old builder, and so carefully filled up by the modern restorer. Down the long perspective of rugged stems and dark foliage, the projecting mass of grey wall and buttress, with the fine flamboyant windows, is the north transept, an iron arrow on the apex of its gable marking it as the Fletchers' Chancel ;* and beyond it the chequered walls of the build- ing known as the Reader's House a quaint and delightful seventeenth century house of stone, plaster, and carved oak is just discernible. * The gift of a Company of Fletchers, or arrow-makers. 26 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. DOORWAY TO OLD HOUSE IN CHURCHYARD. This churchyard, beautiful as it is at this day, must in earlier times have been a very delightful place, more like a quadrangle or cloister garth to the college than an ordinary churchyard. From the far side of the open space the church to its topmost pinnacles is visible, towering above the dark line of yews which gird it at all seasons in a belt of living green. To the right, Hosier's Almshouses, a Gothic build- ing of stone, erected in 1468, is now a bald brick box, re-edified in the eighteenth century by the Corporation, who inscribed upon it " Resuscitarunt, ampliarunt, orna- runt ! " The College, in a line with it, has a little more character, and retains its fifteenth century portal, but has been lately made a Cottage Hospital. The old Rectory, also (as I believe) a part of the College, is picturesque in outline, but has likewise been recently renovated. Some old-fashioned and diminutive houses of red brick, with the Reader's House, shut in the eastern side. THE PARISH CHURCH. 27 But on the north side all is open, and as we lean on the low wall that surmounts the old town ramparts, and look across the broad prospect, as of old the Brethren of the Guild must often have looked, in their quiet pacing on this level space, there is doubtless much in the wide expanse of cultivated plain, into which the winding vale of Teme broadens itself, that is as they beheld it : shut in by the same rounded hills that melt into the far horizon, and clothed then, as now, in its sombre mantle of dark woods. But how much that is changed ! From this high terrace they would see where, at the edge of the slope, the Church of St. Leonard now makes, with the masses of trees, a blot of dark in the landscape, the tower and steep Gothic roofs of the Carmelite Monastery of White Friars that " fayre and costly thynge " which, four hundred years ago, John Leland saw nearly covering the flat ground by the windings of the Corve, and of which but one tottering arch remains. And instead of the red-brick villas where the town is ex- tending on the right, only the houses on each side of the steep descent below Corve Gate would meet their eyes. HISTORY. It may almost be taken for granted that a site so ob- viously fine as this would be occupied before the Norman Conquest ; indeed there is evidence of sepulchral remains there which could hardly have been later than Saxon ; but there is no evidence of a church of that date, no mention of a priest being found in the great Domesday Survey of William the Conqueror. The Norman church was doubtless a much smaller building than the present, though somewhat similar in plan. It probably had aisles and a tower. The font in the north chapel is Norman, and in the outer face of the wall near it, is a flat buttress, which is almost certainly of the same date. In an interesting Latin document which Leland met with in the monastery at Cleobury Mortimer, and which a monk of that convent copied for him, is preserved a statement that the people of Ludlow in 1199 found it necessary to enlarge their church, and that in doing it the workmen had to re- move a large tumulus to the west of it, in which were found three mausolea of stone, containing human remains. Professing them to be the bones of three Irish saints the 28 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. father, mother, and uncle of St. Brandan they re-interred them in the church, in anticipation of numerous miracles and consequent offerings. Whether the bones were Saxon or Roman remains, the above record is valuable as fixing the date of Early English additions to the structure, of which there are indications which, taken altogether, go to show that this later church was of similar dimensions to the present. A theory has been started that it was then a bay shorter in the choir than it is now ; but the very beautiful little window at the back of the high altar, the masonry surrounding it, and the jambs of the east window above it are Early English, and it is impossible to suppose that they were placed there by the fifteenth century builders. The south door, the window jambs in south aisle, and a piscina in the Lady-Chapel, are also Early English. The early part of the fourteenth century, when the College of the Palmers' Guild was confirmed in its posses- sions, and obtained formal recognition, was probably the date of the Decorated alterations and additions to the church, viz. : the north aisle, porch, portions of the chapels, the south transept, the beautiful reredos, and parts of the stalls. The next alteration, late in the four- teenth century, would probably be the building of the north transept by the Fletchers, or arrow-makers, whose name is still connected with it, and whose badge it bears on the gable. And when the town flourished so much through the favour of Edward IV., the tower which was perhaps Norman, and was burnt, there is reason to believe, in the war which raged in the district just before his accession was rebuilt as we now see it, together with the nave and greater part of the building, including all the roofs. About this time, probably, the screen, stalls, vestry, and many windows were added. When the Guild was dissolved, the church seems to have been administered with the other Guild property by the Corporation, and such papers as refer to it are preserved among the municipal records. The best of these is a book of churchwardens' accounts from 1540 to about 1600, which is of exceptional interest in throwing light on the history of the fabric at and after the Reformation. The reredos was probably mutilated in the fourth year of King Edward VI., when an Act was passed for abolishing and putting away divers books and images, and pretty THE PARISH CHURCH. 29 generally carried into effect, but the wooden erection which was placed in front of it has the appearance of being con- siderably later, and is said to have been given by Lord Powis in 1764. The organ, which is an exceedingly fine one, was given, by Lord Powis at the same time, and was originally erected over the rood-screen. It has been enlarged and improved more than once, and now stands in the north transept. The galleries which till 1860 disfigured the aisles were probably put up in the same century, and also the high pews which then existed. It is to be regretted that a quaint pulpit of early eighteenth century character, with a picturesque canopy, was removed at the same time as the latter. There are a number of interesting piscinas and lockers, which show that, in addition to the two existing chapels, there were chantries in the transepts, at both ends of the south aisle, and at the east end of the north aisle ; also probably at its west end. INTERIOR. The south porch is hexagonal, and the only known instance- in this country, except at St. Mary's, Redcliffe and at Chipping Norton. It is almost entirely Decorated ; the principal external details having perished, were renewed some years ago, but within it is untouched. The groining of the vault is very fine and of the same date, but the inner doorway, with its bold mouldings and nook-shafts, is noteworthy as one of the few early English features of the building. Over this porch is a chamber which may have been a residence for chantry priests, or was perhaps a domus inclusi. It is reached by a staircase turret, in the angle, which opens from the church. Just within the aisle, on the east, are remains of a late holy-water stoup, and by the staircase door is a niche for a piscina. The nave arcades are carried on each side on five slender columns and two responds, which for the late period of their erection (about 1460) are unusually simple and elegant in design. In plan they are elongated quatrefoils, and have at each projection a shaft with base and capital, between each of which the wave-moulding of the arch above is continued down the pillar. The large piers which support 30 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. the tower are treated in a similar manner, but on a larger and more elaborate scale, and the arches above them are extremely beautiful and effective. The south aisle contains a number of windows now fifteenth century, but in their jambs early English mould- ings can be traced. The corresponding windows in the north aisle, fine examples of the Geometrical Decorated style (about 1320 to 1350), are untouched, and contain in the upper lights the original heraldic glass. Both aisles at their eastern ends are continued into the transepts under large half-arches, which are a very con- spicuous feature of the church, and similar ones open into the side chapels, having rich screens across the bottom. rood-loft under the chancel arch is supported on a ROOD SCREEN AND STALLS, LUDLOW CHURCH. THE PARISH CHURCH. 31 very rich and massive oak screen, and was reached by a door in the tower staircase ; unlike the others, this screen has a large opening occupying two-thirds of its width. The lower part is solid panel-work enriched with carving ; above it open tracery, and above that ribbed framework in imitation of vaulting to support the loft. On the eastern side of this screen begin the Collegiate Stalls. COLLEGIATE STALLS. These stalls are remarkably fine examples of fifteenth century wood work, though the canopies which were once ranged over them are gone,* and many of the small figures have been mutilated or destroyed. They were designed to accommodate the priests of the college, but were doubtless sufficient in number for them and their more distinguished visitors. They extend on each side of the chancel to about half its length, are divided into three lengths by gangways and small flights of steps, and have six upright stall-ends richly carved on each side. These stall-ends are covered in intricate designs with the richest panel-work, and are finished above with the elaborate finials known as " poppy- heads," carved with great variety, hardly any two being alike. Most of them have niches for figures, and several are entirely composed of groups of figures, one being a bishop in episcopal vestments, and one the Virgin with the dead Christ on her knees ; the others from age and ill-usage are difficult to make out. THE MISERERES. There- are fifteen stalls on each side, and in each the folding seats known as misereres. They were so called from their merciful office in giving support to infirm and aged monks, who might lean upon them in chanting the long conventual services, while appearing to stand. They were a feature in the choir of most cathedral and collegiate churches, and are always exceedingly interesting, from the carvings which are found on their under sides. Great difference of opinion exists as to the meaning and purpose of these carvings, but it seems from the character of them, * There are canopies over some of them, attached to the ancient panel-work at the back, but they are modern 32 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. that at a time when pictures were few and the power to read rare, they were the genre paintings and story books of the Middle Ages. Those of Ludlow were not all of the same period, some being earlier than the stalls, others about the same age, and others later. This may be explained if we suppose the stalls to have been burned in the fifteenth century, when the tower was destroyed, and the earlier misereres to have been part of the salvage from that fire. The best executed, earliest, and most interesting are those which represent a distinct subject ; and it is noteworthy that they appear to be the work of the same man,* each bearing an incised mark resembling a sprig of some conventional plant, MISERERE CARVING, LUDLOW CHURCH. which was no doubt the private mark of the artist. Like nearly all misereres, they are arranged on a uniform plan a central group and two subordinate wings. Some are purely decorative, others appear to be illustrations of the quaint and fabulous Natural History of the Middle Ages, while many are satires directed against the exaggerated costume and gluttonous habits of certain periods. Be- ginning at the west end of the stalls on the south side, the first seat is blank, the second a Tudor rose of poor execu- tion ; (3) is blank. xNo. 4 has in the centre a figure in large cap, collar, and gown, holding a scroll, probably a scholastic ; on the left * These are marked x . THE PARISH CHURCH. 33 Is an old face in drapery, and on the right a young one. xNo. 5 seems to be an attempt to ridicule the worship of the beer barrel. A tun is set on end in the centre, and two men in the costume of the reign of Richard II. are kneeling on either side like a pair of heraldic supporters. The side ornaments are the ale-bench, with barrels, flagons, and drinking-cups : interesting from their unusual design. (6). A man drawing liquor from a diminutive cask with an immense flagon ; he wears a hood, belt and pouch of -the same period as the last. The side ornaments are con- ventional foliage. (7). A grotesque monster, with bird's head and wings, which was known as the cockatrice ;* smaller ones at either side, erased. Representations of the fabulous animals, with which mediaeval literature abounded, are frequent on the carved details of churches. x(8) Mutilated. A number of cocks and hens, with fox. This was probably meant to illustrate one of the popular fables, which recounts the adventures of Reynard the Fox, In this one the incised sprig is many times repeated, and forms a kind of ground for the birds. The two sides are stiff foliage. x(g) A group of five men apparently wrestling. On the left a horse with rich trappings. This group is so :much damaged that its intention is difficult to understand. On the right is a gypciere, or pouch, and a pillow. The gypciere was a kind of external purse made of silk or leather, stitched to a metal frame, and usually had three tassels ; the opening drawn together by a cord, as in this example. It was from this purse attached to the belt that the thieves of the period got the name of " cut-purse." Indeed, it is likely enough that the scene here depicted is that of a traveller who has been dragged from his horse, and is struggling with thieves, and that the group on the -right is the booty for which they contend. It is perhaps * The following is an ancient account of the origin of a cockatrice : " When the Cock is past seven years old an egg groweth within him, whereat he wondreth greatly. He seeketh privately a warm place, on a dunghill or in a stable, to which he goeth ten times daily. A toad privily watcheth him, and examineth the nest every day to see af the egg yet be laid. When the toad findeth the egg, he rejoiceth much, and at length hatching it, produceth an animal with the head and breast of a Cock, and from thence downwar.'s the body of a serpent. And that is a Cockatrice." 34 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. an illustration of the parable of the Good Samaritan, (10) An old woman in a peaked hood, seated in a quaint three-legged chair, is warming herself at a fire. On the right two sides of bacon, on the left a pot hung over a fire. (n) A swan rudely executed. On each side stiff foliage. (12) An owl in the centre, pigeons at each side. (13) Large female head in centre with reticulated head- dress ; small ditto on each side. This seems to be a bur- lesque on the mode of wearing the hair, which came into vogue about the reign of Edward IV., and developed into the horned or mitred shape, of which there are some re- markable examples in church sculptures. x(i4) A man in Richard II. costume, with large bundle strapped on his shoulders, is stooping to draw on his large boots. Conventional foliage at sides. (15) A group of stiff foliage. x(i6) A man in long frock, with waist-belt and collar, his head bare and hair long. By his side a barrel, pair of bellows (showing a very respectable antiquity for that useful implement), clogs, and hammer. The left pendant is a woman seated on a stool. The right shows an altar- tomb with fourteenth century panelling, spades, skulls and bones, and a pick, above them a hand issuing out of clouds, and holding the holy-water pot. It has been supposed that the principal figure is of a grave-digger ; but the grouping of the hammer, &c., with him, makes that very doubtful. The arms of both figures are broken off ; but the attitude of the woman suggests that she is admonishing the central figure. If we suppose the tools to show him to be a smith, and that he is unduly fond of the barrel at his side, the woman might be pointing to the tomb and its ghastly accompaniments on the other pendant as the certain end of such weakness. On the north side, the first at the east end, is another burlesque of the horned head-dress a large female head, with a hideous face, wears the offending coiffure, and on each side are boys jeering, one with a mirror.* The second is a similar subject ; but this time a bat wears the head- dress, and on each side are grotesque monsters. x (3) Represents the end of the ale-wife who gave short measure. In the centre group a demon is carrying the unfortunate hostess in the most unceremonious fashion, See illustration page 32, THE PARISH CHURCH. 35 with her false measure in her hand, to thrust her into hell- mouth, which is shown on the right hand, while the foul fiend himself plays the pipes. On the left is another demon, reading a long catalogue of her offences.* (4) A mermaid with mirror. Fish on each side. x(5) Mutilated. A man on the ground, with a woman holding him, and another apparently assisting ; on the left, a pot over a fire. Probably this represented practical joking in a kitchen rather a favourite subject. (6) A hart with scroll, a crown round its neck, with chain attached ; grotesque heads on sides. (7) The head of a bishop with long hair ; he wears the mitre, amice round the neck, and below may be traced the cope fastened by a morse or buckle ; on the two sides are mitres showing the pendant ornaments, called vittae or infulae. This combination of amice and cope is very un- usual, but occurs in the figure of Bishop Goldwell, in Norwich Cathedral. (8) Three groups of Prince of Wales' feathers, of a type rarely met with. This may probably have marked the seat of one of the young heirs apparent, who resided at Ludlow. Perhaps the Tudor rose, above mentioned, marked that of Prince Arthur, and it is quite possible that several of the later carvings may have indicated the seats of important people, as the hart gorged, the swan, and mermaid, are all badges of great families. (9) A fox in mitre, hood, and cope, preaching to a. number of geese from a pulpit. Mutilated. This has been supposed to be a satirical attack on the clergy ; but it is more probably another incident from the before-mentioned fable of Reynard the Fox, which was very popular in the Middle Ages ; on the left are a man, woman, and hare,, mutilated, but probably representing another fable. On the right conventional foliage. (10) Hunted stag, on each side hounds in pursuit. (n) A crowned head, with flowing hair and beard ; conventional foliage at sides. (12) An archangel blowing a trumpet ; conventional foliage. (13) Hawks on a lure, and lures on each side. (14) Blank. * She is without clothing, as that was the mediaeval method of representing a soul after death. 36 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. (15) Tudor roses grouped. (16) Blank. THE LADY-CHAPEL. It will be noticed that the chancel is not parallel to the nave, but this is not due to the accidental cause it has been attributed to, being intended to symbolise the leaning of our Saviour's head upon the Cross. Very likely the position of the two chapels was intended to follow the arrangement of the rood, St. John and the Virgin on each side of the crucifix. They are placed in the angle formed by the chancel and transepts, and are both large lean-to chambers with good Perpendicular roofs, divided from the chancel by the stall wainscoting, and from the transepts by rich screens. That of the chapel on the south (The Lady) has several light shafts, each with plain bases and capitals, rising from a thick beam, and supporting a number of con- verging ribs, which meet in carved bosses and carry the loft above. The three openings are treated like windows, with tracery in four principal lights and six smaller ones. A rich but mutilated fringe of perforated carving completes the whole. Just within the chapel is another piece of old woodwork, one of the original benches, and opposite to it the old Norman font, large, plain, and cylindrical. The latter was restored to the church by Sir Gilbert Scott, after having served for many years as a water-trough. In the upper lights of the east window is a quantity of old glass, extremely good in colour, representing on a background of vine-leaves, &c., a number of crowned heads. There are tablets of moderate age on the walls and piers, and the pavement has many gravestones. Those in the south-east corner are the earliest in the building, being mostly foliated crosses, which have been discovered in various parts of the church. In the south wall, above them, is a fine piscina of similar date (Early English), and near it another opening, probably the original piscina niche, the first having been inserted later. On the back of the stalls dividing the chapel from the chancel is a copy of the Ten Command- ments, painted on boards in old English characters. It has been erroneously described as a reredos of Henry VIII. 's time, but is really " the tables of the Commandments " which, in 1560, were required by the Queen's Commissioners THE PARISH CHURCH. 37 SCREEN OF THE LADY-CHAPEL, & SOUTH TRANSEPT, LUDLOW CHURCH. to be set up in the east end of the chancel, " to be not only read for edification, but also to give some comely ornament and demonstration that the same was a place of religion and prayer." ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL. The screen of the chapel on the north is more elaborately wrought and highly finished than the other. The open- ings are eight in number and much smaller, beginning 38 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. about breast-high above twice as many tracery panels and a row of perforated quatrefoils, each opening having a single mullion, and the head filled with intricate tracery. Above them the cornice arches over with considerable projection inside the chapel, and supports a loft. There are some quaint old benches with poppy-heads within the chapel, and one wall is wainscoted with the drapery panelling. Another portion of the wooden fittings remains in the arched canopy, with angels carved on its bosses, over the east window, intended as a kind of bal- dachino for the altar. In the pavement are many grave- stones, one of which, near the door, has the well-defined matrix of a brass effigy. There is also the matrix of a small brass built into the north wall. The glass in this chapel is of great interest, especially that in the east window, depicting in eight groups the "" Legend of the Ring." Briefly, the story is this : King Edward the Confessor having no coin to relieve an old man who asked his alms, gave him a valuable ring. Some time alter, the same ring was given to some pilgrims in the Holy Land by an old man, who told them he was John the Baptist, and who charged them to re-deliver it to King Edward as a token that his death would shortly ensue. The pilgrims, on their return, fulfilled their errand to the king, and have always been stated to be men of Ludlow. The topmost light on the left shows the pilgrims setting sail for Palestine ; (2) the king giving the ring to the old man ; (3) St. John as an old man giving the ring to the pilgrims ; (4) the pilgrims returning the ring to Edward ; (5) the pilgrims going to church in a procession of eccle- siastics ; (6) the pilgrims again before Edward, receiving some gift ; (7) reception of the pilgrims on their return to Ludlow ; (8) a gathering to celebrate their return. At the bottom is a fragment of an inscription, fenetra fieri feceront, which may be taken to confirm the connection of the window with the guild, or, at any rate, to show that it was not given by an individual. A few years ago the old glass occupied only the two centre lights, and it has been, together with that in the other three windows, which was also in a damaged and chaotic condition, restored. The latter are rich and harmonious in colour, and depict : that on the left, Our Lord, with SS. Catherine, Christopher, and others ; the other two, the Twelve Apostles, with portions of the Apostles' Creed. THE CHANCEL. Beyond the stalls, the windows occupy nearly the whole space. They have good Perpendicular tracery of the same design in each, which is continued below them with nearly similar stone panelling on the wall-surface. A well-moulded door- way of the same late style, with good original tre foiled panels and ironwork in the door itself, admits to the vestry, which is lighted by two small square - headed windows of two lights in the north, and one similar in the east wall. Near the latter are a stone bracket for an image and the pis- cina niche, showing it to have been used as a chapel. A smaller chamber, having a fireplace, to the west of SEDILIA AND PISCINA, LUDLOW CHURCH. 40 LUDLOVV TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. this, is entered from it by a pointed arch, and was pro~ bably the residence of a chantry priest ; it has one window,, and in it is a fine old iron-bound chest. The arch in north wall of chancel is described later with the monuments, but the piscina and sedilia opposite to it should not be forgotten. They are late, like their surroundings, and have flat, square-topped canopies ; the details, however, are very good' and should be examined. The reredos, which covers the east wall below the window, was discovered before the restoration, in a mutilated condition, and was restored under the direction of Mr. R. K. Penson, R.I., F.S.A., who has kindly furnished me with details which enabled me to make a fairly complete analysis of the whole, which is a deeply interesting work of ancient art. A very short account of it must suffice here. The whole of the upper row, which contains a great number of small figures in tabernacle work, is original, also that below, which has not much projection, including the door-head, with the knight and dragon in combat. All the detached figures under canopies are modern, from drawings by Overbeck, and the projecting canopies in the lower row are conjectural from the remains of the old ones, which had been cut down to one level, as also had the five bas-reliefs over the altar, which were re-produced on the original lines. They represent the Nativity, Baptism, Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension, of Our Lord. Portions of the colour and gilding are original. In the south wall, near the piscina, is a small doorway leading to a chamber at the back, which is lighted by the exquisite little thirteenth century window before mentioned. Many explanations of various degrees of probability have been given for its presence here, but the most likely are that it was a convenient place in which to keep the church treasures, or through which lepers and other outcasts might receive communion. In the tower is a fine peal of eight bells, but none are older than 1732. MONUMENTS. One would expect to find a church of such importance rich in mediaeval tombs, but though there are records which speak of several, they have nearly all disappeared. We have to remember, however, that the parish church was not the only large church in the town. It is probable that THE PARISH CHURCH. 41 great people of the place were interred as was the practice in early times, in the churches of the monastic bodies ; all the more so, as there are so few pre- Reformation tombs in the church. With the exception of two matrices of brasses in St. John's Chapel and some fragments of floriated crosses in the Lady-Chapel, there is but one Gothic tomb remaining, a group of two large and three small recesses, with cusped and crocketed arches, in the north-west corner of the north aisle, which tradition connects with the name of Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. As it is well known that he died at Ludlow Castle, that when his body was em- balmed and carried in great state to Worcester, the bowels were buried in St. Lawrence's Church, and as the style and decoration of the tomb are in accord with this date, it may well be that the tradition is correct. In each of the two larger recesses is a square altar-like tomb, the face highly enriched with Gothic tracery-panels, the easternmost having also a large Tudor rose, which ornament is prominent in the decoration of Prince Arthur's tomb in Worcester Cathedral. The smaller recesses are separated by semi-detached but- tresses, and each contains a seat. It is possible that a chantry chapel existed here, enclosed by screen-work, and that the seats were intended for officiating priests, and that a piscina was included in the damaged eastern portion. There is no inscription, except those on later slabs which have been used to repair the top, but perhaps the western- most tomb is that mentioned by Leland as to " one Cokkis, a gentleman servitor to Prince Arthur." On this tomb is- placed every Sunday, for distribution to twelve poor widows a dole of bread, which was founded by " Thomas Lane, Gent, Alderman of this Corporation," in 1676, who " for the Maintenance of that Charitable Gift, for ever, Devised a Parcel of Land in St. John's." The other monuments are not earlier than the reign of Elizabeth, but as they follow one another in close succes- sion, and most of them contain large figures, they afford an interesting and instructive series for the study of costume during that and the two following reigns. One of the oldest is a large altar-tomb of free-stone, under an elaborate Gothic arch at the far end of the chancel. It has life-size effigies of a knight and lady on the top, three small ones of daughters on each end, and six sons along the front. The head of the knight rests on a large clasped book, on each 42 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. side of which is a gauntlet, and another book in the folded hands. On the head is the black skull-cap of a Chief Justice. His armour is entirely plate, and early Eliza- bethan in character ; the hinges and other details are very clearly shown, and the sword in a singular position under the body. The lady wears the French Hood, or " Paris Head," a kind of close linen cap with a lappet hanging down from the back. The gown is fastened by a sash at the waist, and is thrown open below to display a stiff petticoat embroidered with a diapered pattern. The sleeves are puffed and slashed, and have small ruffs at the wrists. Her feet rest on three dogs, and those of the knight on a stag. The small figures on the front are attired in the civilian costume of the same period. They wear long open cloaks, showing the doublet buttoned down the front, trunk-hose stockings, and long shoes. There have been painted inscriptions under each group, but the lower ones have become undecipherable through damp. By very close scrutiny it can be made out that they are the names of the children, with the people they married, as " Amye was maride to Raffe Button, Esquire." It is a pity that the early historians of Ludlow did not copy them as well as the upper one, which can be read as follows : " Heare lieth the Bodyes of Syr Robart Towneshend, Knight, Chief Justes of the Counsell in the marches of Walles and Chester, and Dame Alice his wyff, Daughter, and one of the Hey res of Robert Povye, Esquire, who had between them twoo XII children VI sonnes and VI daughters lawfully begot." The general design of the arch is Late Perpendicular, but additions have been made to bring it more into harmony with the Renaissance character of the tomb : viz., the flat entablature at the top, the Towneshend arms in the recess, and the family badges, the scallop and pomegranate, as cusps to the arch. Previous to the Reformation this recess would be used for the reception of the Easter Sepul- chre, a moveable structure representing the Holy Sepulchre set up just before Easter, when certain rites in commem- oration of the Burial and Resurrection of our Lord were observed with great ceremony. On the south side of the chancel, under the second window counting from the east, is a small altar-tomb of plain classic character, and above (ingeniously combined with the THE PARISH CHURCH. 43 fifteenth century panel-work of the wall) are several coats of arms disposed in hatchments, and this inscription : " Heare lyeth the bodye of Ambrozia Sidney, iiij th daughter EASTER SEPULCHRE, AND TOWNSHEND TOMB, LUDLOW CHURCH. 44 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. of the Right Honourable Syr Henrye Sydney, Knight of the most noble order of the Garter, Lord President of the Counsell of Walles, &c., and of the Ladye Mary his wyef. daughter to the famous Duke of Northumberland, who dyed in Ludlow Castell ye 22nd of Februarie, 1574." The poet Churchyarde, writing in the reign of Elizabeth, of this tomb, says : " So to the same a closet fayre is wrought where lords may sit in stately solemne wise." This was probably a canopied oak pew, such as were frequently erected in churches at that time, for the use of great families, and of which a good example exists in the chancel at Stokesay. In the next bay towards the west is a large tomb of alabaster, with a mural arch above embellished with scrolls and pinnacles, and surmounted by a figure of Time, with a scythe and hour-glass. There are two large effigies. The male clad in civilian costume : namely, a long gown with sleeves reaching nearly to the ground, and hanging down from the shoulders as mere ornamental strips, with holes in the upper part for the arms. Underneath it a doublet and trunk-hose. The female figure shows some changes in costume since the date of the Towneshend figure. The hair is brushed back from the temples, and the Paris hood has the lappet thrown forward over the top of the head. The ornament in front of the skirts is scroll work instead of a diapered pattern. On the face of the tomb are figures of the sons in civilian dress, with short cloaks and long-waisted doublets ; and on the two ends the daughters. The names are painted above them, but a mistake has been made by putting James over a daughter and Mary over a son. The original iron rails are still round the tomb, with pennons at the corners, perforated with the initials of the deceased. Above is this inscription : " Heare lye the bodies of Ed- mund Walter, Esq., Chieffe Justice of three shiers in South Wales, and one of his Majestie's Councill in the Marches of Wales, and of Mary his wife, daughter of Thomas Hackelvit, of Eyton, Esquire, who had issue three sonnes, named James, John, and Edward, and two daughters, named Mary and Dorothy. He was buried the 29th day of Jan- uarie, Anno Dni., 1592." A very picturesque group on the opposite wall is the memorial of the Waties family, with two quaint figures under a plain lintel supported on Corinthian pilasters, and THE PARISH CHURCH. 45 a carved head in the centre. The male figure wears a black cap with ornamented border, large ruff, and long red gown. The lady has her head bare, ruff at the neck, tight- sleeved gown, over which a long mantle with. wide short sleeves. Under them is the following : " This monument was erected by Edward Waties, Esquier, one of his Ma tles Councell in Ordinary in the Principallity and Marches of Wales, in his lief 6 time anno Aetatis suae 70, in memorial of him self 6 & Martha, his late wief 6 decease d , who was daughter to Sir Charles Foxe, knight, and dame Issabell, his wief 6 . She departed this lief 6 the secon d day of October, 1629 ; they had issue between 6 them three sonnes, Charles, Edward, and Timothie, and foure daughters, Margaret, Issabell, Margaret & Anne, of all w ich only two are nowe livinge, Margaret, the younger, who is married to Edward Corbett, of Longnor, in the County of Salop, Esquier, & Anne, who is married to Edward Foxe, of Ludford, in the County of Hereford." The next figure in order of date is that of Dame Margaret Eure, at the end of the south transept. It shows the changes in female dress which were introduced towards the end of the reign of Elizabeth. The hair is drawn away from the forehead, and covered by a huge calash or hood, which falls a considerable distance down the back ; an enormous ruff surrounds the neck, and the skirts of the dress project abruptly at the hips, below the peaked stomacher, being extended by the use of farthingales. The figure is of alabaster, and reclines on the left elbow, instead of being recumbent at full length or kneeling, as hitherto. It does not now mark the burial-place of the deceased, as it was removed from the chancel during the restoration. At the feet is a wooden half-effigy of a man in late armour and a turban. The same figure occurs as part of the coat of arms above. The inscription says : " Here lyeth, ex- pectinge a joyfull Resurrection, the body of Dame Mary Eure, late wife to Right Hon. Ralphe Lord Eure, Baron of Malton, Lord President of the principalitie and Marches of Wales, & Lieutenant of the same, and Daughter of Sir John Dawney, of Sessey, in the County of Yorke, knight. She departed this mortal lyfe the loth day of March, Anno Domini 1612, aetatis suae 55." On the floor near the Eure monument is a slab of red stone, with a border of white inlaid, inscribed and dated 46 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 1617. In the centre an effigy of white stone inlaid and incised with the figure of a lady, but very much worn down. The monument in St. John's Chapel to Sir John Brydge- man and his wife shows a good example of the female costume prevalent during the reign of Charles I. It is a large white marble altar-tomb, with two recumbent effigies. The male figure is clad in a square cap and long robe. The female figure has the hair in ringlets, and over it a kerchief edged with a deep border of lace, a rich collar of lace round the neck, full sleeves to the gown, pointed stomacher, and a kind of sleeveless mantle formed in two pieces joined at the shoulder, and she holds a book in her right hand. The original railings still divide the tomb from the rest of the chapel. At the back of the tomb is the inscription : " Sacrvm Memoriae D'ni Johannis Brydgeman, Militis Seruientis ad legem et capitalis Justiciariz Cestrise. Qui maximo omnium bonorum mcevore (cum 70 annos vixisset), 5 to Febru anno 1637, P^ e Placideq ; animam Deo reddidit^ Francisa Vxor moestissima posuit." Which may be rendered, Sacred to the memory of Sir John Bridgman, Knight, Serjeant-at-Law, and Chief Justice of Chester, who, to the very great grief of all good persons (when he had lived seventy years), piously and peacefully gave up his soul to God on the 5th of February, 1637. Francisca, his ever-sorrowing wife, erected this monument. In the chancel is a white marble mural tomb, in the classic style of the eighteenth century, with a highly finished figure of a cherub seated on a collection of skulls, bones, hour-glass, and other emblems, which commemorates " Theophilus Salwey, Esq., who was the eldest son of Edward Salwey, Esq., a younger son of Major Richard Salwey, who, in the last century, sacrific'd all and every- thing in his power in support of Public Liberty and in opposition to Arbitrary Power. The said Theophilus Salwey married Mary, the Daughter and Heiress of Robert Dennet, of Walthamstow, in the County of Essex, Esq. r but left no issue by her. Obiit the 28th day of April, 1700, aet. 61. Pro Rege Saepe : Pro Republica Semper." PLAN OF THE TOWN, SHOWING THE OLD WALL. CHAPTER V. THE TOWN. Remains of the Monasteries The College The Grammar School Barnaby House Dinham Chapel The Town Wall Broad Gate Gaol Butter Cross Corporation Maces Civic Buildings Domestic Architecture Almshouses The Museum. THE remaining interest in the town itself is chiefly in the relics which connect it with the remote past, most of them remains of ecclesiastical military, civic, or domestic archi- tecture. Of the ecclesiastical, the monastery of the Carmelites has .already been mentioned. The existing fragments are a few carved heads in the wall of the burial-ground of St. Leonard's Church, which now occupies the site, the old font therein, and an old arch in the lane called Linney, which runs from the lower end of Corve Street towards the castle. This arch is of the transitional period from Norman to Early English. Leland spoke of the building .as a fair and costly thing, without Corv-gate by north, nearly at the end of the suburb. Laurence de Ludlow is said, in one of Stow's MS., to have been the founder, about 1349.* The site was granted in the 2nd of Elizabeth to R. Hackett and Thomas Trentham. There is an inventory of the goods temp. Henry VIII. in the Chapter House, Westminster. The Carmelites, or White Friars, took the first name from the place of their first residence, and the second from the colour of their habit. They were driven from Mount Carmel, in 1098, by the Saracens. The Austin Friars also possessed a large monastery on the slope below Goalford,f on the site of the Cattle Market. The founda- tions were uncovered when the latter was made, and plans were taken of them ; but no visible traces exist except the fish-ponds, now empty. Leland says : " Without Goalford -Gate stood the house of Austin Friars, who had seated themselves there before 1282." The Priory was granted to * The word Founder was often used in the sense of patron. Laurence could hardly have been the first founder, from the early -Character of the arch. f Now spelt Galdeford. THE TOWN. 49 Geo. Cotton and William Man, in the ist year of Mary. These friars had a white garment and scapulary when in the house, over which, when in the choir or abroad, they wore a cowl or large hood, both black, and black leathern girdle. There was also a Hospital of St. John the Baptist on the river-side below Ludford Bridge. The name survives in St. John's Close, and the ruin of a fulling mill under the top side of the bridge* is a relic of their property. Leland says: " On the North syde of the brydge, in ripa sinistra Teme, a Church of St. John standing without Broad Gate, some time a College with a Dean and fellows, of one Jordan's foundation." This seems to be, says Tanner, " the Hospital for a Prior, Warden, or Master, which one, Peter Undergod, in the latter end of the reign of John, built to the honour of the Trinity, St. Mary, and St. John the Baptist, valued at the dissolution at 13 33. 3d. The Warden and brethren ought, as it is sayd, to discharge ye cure and say divine service in ye king's chapell of Saynt Peter within ye Castell of Ludlow." The list of religious bodies of mediaeval Ludlow is com- pleted with the Brotherhood of the Palmer's Guild. Their College is a plain modernised building at the west of the church having a Perpendicular oak gateway and some panelled rooms. At the back are some remains of stone buildings, covering a considerable space, most of which are not earlier than the fifteenth century; but one large window, now hidden by decaying sheds, at the back of Church Street, is a capital example of Early Decorated work, and of great interest as attesting the importance and extent of the College. The old house adjoining on the north, known as the old rectory, has also been lately reno- vated ; and, on the removal of the plastering, it could be seen that the door, though ancient and retaining its old iron-work, was under and at one side of a much larger stone pointed arch, which can still be seen. The intervening space was filled up with stonework, and timber framing, and in the latter, at the top of the door, was a good window with moulded oak mullions, now removed. There was another window uncovered in the lower part of the wall, which presumably still remains, and has an ogee head, shutter hinges, and other signs of being coeval with it. * The remains of this mill were swept away in the recent disastrous flood (1886). 50 LUDLOW TOW\ AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. These evidences of alteration in the Tudor period are most interesting, especially as in this case illustrating an import- ant episode in the history of the town namely, the dis- solution of the guild, and the application of its property through new channels to works of religion and education. Doubtless, at this time the college buildings were altered to suit new requirements ; and we have in the Gothic masonry and Tudor additions a record of this. It would have been most interesting, as well as picturesque, if the ancient door and window had been retained, and I tried during the recent alterations to save them, but without avail. That part of the ground floor, lighted by the ogee-headed window, was divided by heavy oak framework, with pointed door- ways of the same date. That this was an important edifice we know from the notes of Leland, who speaks of it and its owners thus : " This church hath beene muche advanced by a brotherhood therein founded, in the name of St. John the Evangelist. The Originall thereof was (as the people say there) in the tyme of King Edward the Confessor, and it is constantly affirmed there that the Pilgrims that brought the Ringe from beyond the Sea as a token from St. John the Evange- list to K. Edward were the inhabitants of Ludlowe. This Fraternity hath a Guardian chosen annually amonge the Burgesses, and to this College belonge now a ten Priests partly found by endowment of Landes, partly by Gather- inge the Devotion of the People about there. And these Priests have a fayre house at the West end of the Paroche Churche yard, and by it an Hospitall or almshouse for 30 poore Folkes for the most part, and sometimes more, main- tained partly by the Fraternity and partly by mony given for Obbits of men buried there in the Churche." When we turn to its early history for confirmation of this claim to date from the time of Edward the Confessor (which would assume a town here in Saxon times, which Mr. Eyton thinks probable), we find it misty and confused, but still affording a distinct clue to such a society from a time not far short of that. The documents which still exist would themselves fill a large volume. The earliest is date- less and mutilated, but it has been demonstrated by laborious research to be as early as Henry III. or John, and in it there is evidence of the existence of a former guild. In the early years of the reign of Edward I., the guild THE TOWN. 51 obtained formal recognition, and in the Patent Rolls of Edward III. is a mention of the application, and its being granted by Edward I. In these Letters Patent the guild is spoken of as having existed " ab antique." Besides these facts in support of the claim, the name itself is difficult to explain by any other theory, and is known to have dis- tinguished the Fraternity from a very early time. In the will of William de la Vilde, 1317, is the following passage : " Item lego fraternitati St. Andre de ludlowe quae vocatur palmar gylde." Not included in the general Dissolution of Henry VIII., it was in the reign of Edward VI. surrendered to the Crown on condition of being handed over to the Corporation for the same charitable ends to which it had been always applied. The manuscripts relating to this transaction are preserved among the town records ; they extend over several years, but eventually the fee farm " of all suche burgages, mesuages, lands, tenementes, wooddes, and all other heri- ditaments what soe ever " belonging to " the guylde or fraternitie of palmers of our Ladye in Ludlow," the " warden, brythern, and sisterne of the sayd guylde being contented to surrender unto the Kinge's majestie's handes," were granted to " the bayliffes, burgessis, and commonal- tie," with the condition that they " alwayes finde in the same towne, at their own charges, a free grammar schole, with a schoolmaster and an hussher for the erudicion of youth in the Latine tonge, and also xxxiij poore and im- potent people, every one of them to have a chamber and iiij s a week, and alsoe on honeste learned man to preache Goddes woord, which shall be named the preacher of the towne of Ludlowe, and on honeste and discrete minister to assist the parson in the ministracion of the devine sacra- mentes and service there, wich shall be called the assistant to the parson." THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. In the fifth year of Edward VI., 1552, a new charter was granted, which states that a Grammar School had been maintained by the Guild and provides, among other things, that the " issues and profits of their premises should keep and continue the said Grammar School." There is a par- ticular of the Guild estate attached to the grant, which LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL, FROM MILL STREET, LUDLOW. gives the gross income as 121 35. nirf., but no means exist of identifying the actual property. The present income handsomely provides for a head master, second master, and writing master, and there are several exhibitions of value, open to boys of the district. The building itself stands in the lower part of Mill Street, and is very interest- ing. Its evident antiquity bears out the documentary evidence of its existence much earlier than the charter of Edward VI. Except the one at King's Norton, part of which is believed to be fourteenth century, there are probably few other instances of a grammar school so old THE TOWN. 53 either in fabric or foundation. The schoolroom, which faces the road, is a stone building with a large pointed door, and on its upper side two fourteenth century windows of two lights, having the heads cusped, and on the lower side is a modern copy of them. In the roof are five large dormers, which give light to a dormitory, and on the garden side are two more fourteenth century windows, like those facing the street, but having only one light. Near them is another door opposite and similar to the first. The lower part of the walls is panelled with Jacobean oak, which is carved above by the original maker and below by genera- tions of mischievous school-boys. The turret and windows under it are modern. There was a wooden bell-turret in the centre of the roof in 1800, but it was destroyed, when the present was erected and the south end modernised. BARNABY HOUSE. A little below the Grammar School, parallel to and just within the old Town Wall, is a row of buildings of grey- stone, much time-worn, and now divided into several tene- ments. Some years ago it was used as a silk-mill, and gave to the lane the name it still bears. But it has a much more considerable antiquity, as a close inspection will show. The side towards the lane bears evidence of having been much altered, especially the window openings, but there is high up a long opening like a doorway now bricked up with a shouldered arch in the head, which is thirteenth century. The end towards Mill Street was last used as a stable ; in it there is a large fireplace with moulded side- stones and corbelled-head. From the loft over this can be seen the fine timber framework of the roof, divided by large beams into compartments which are trefoiled in each end. In the garden front the walls are very thick and solid, of limestone rubble, with large quoins of sandstone. There is here an Early English window, and near it a corbelled-out projection ; also a large door of the same period, with shouldered head. This edifice was no doubt part of one which was called Barnaby House, and in medieval times served as a resting- place for pilgrims, of which there were great numbers passed through Ludlow on their way to the Well of St. Winifred at Holywell, in Wales. 54 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. DINHAM CHAPEL. Just within Dinham Gate stands a small chapel, now ivy- covered, and surmounted by a wooden turret, having been converted into a coach-house. Scarcely anything is known of its history, and it is not easy to decide what was its plan or extent, as only the chancel remains, but it seems very likely that the nave extended over the Town Gate, which was not an unusual arrangement. The chancel-arch, now fitted with large doors, is the entrance, and is of simple and very Early English character, with plain imposts ; and there is a similar one nearly as large in the north wall, but built up, as is a small doorway under it. This chancel was vaulted with stone, and the ribs remain entire, springing from corbels in the four angles, only a short distance from the floor, though the vault is lofty. On the south side are several apertures, which it is difficult to understand ; one of them has externally a Norman look. The recess of a large east window remains with, perhaps, tracery, but there is a stable built against it. MILITARY AND CIVIC REMAINS. The only military remains, except the castle, are the town fortifications, unless we include a building in Goalford, which was reconstructed as a gaol from the ruins of an ancient tower in 1754. The Town Wall can be traced throughout its length, and will be best understood from the plan. In many places it is still of considerable height and well preserved, though of the five gates only one remains. In Frog Lane there is a considerable length of the town ditch under the wall, cultivated as a garden to an old alms- house at the corner of Old Street. At this point, Old Gate crossed the street, and was entire within living memory. Broad Gate, at the other end of Frog Lane, the name of which no doubt comes from its proximity to the moat, has been tampered with at various times, and both sides en- crusted with houses, but still shows considerable strength, standing massive and grim across the street, whose great breadth it reduces to a narrow arched passage. The two semi-circular towers of stone with bricked-up loop-holes are probably late mediaeval work, but the heavy pointed arch within, with its portcullis groove and gate hinges, is of the THE TOWN. 55 fourteenth century at least. The brick arches at either end of the gateway passage are comparatively modern, as are most of the windows. The other gates were in Dinham, Linney, Corve Street, and Goalford. There was also one at the bottom of Mill Street, but probably only a postern for the Town Mill. The road from Dinham Bridge approaches the town through a narrow passage between high rubble walls, and at its upper end was Dinham Gate, which is mentioned in the thirteenth century, and remained till 1786. At the north-west angle of the churchyard, was Linney Gate, the door- jambs of which were recently discovered during repairs. The position of Corve Gate, at the top of the street of that name, is easily traced by the sudden widening of the street on the outer side of it. At the back of the Feathers Hotel, on the east side of the street, is a ruined tower, placed so as to strengthen the wall on this side, where the natural defences were weakest. There is a similar tower overgrown with weeds on the river side of the wall, above Mill Street. The Old Gaol is a plain Georgian building of stone. The following inscription was on the large stone over the doorway : ' This building was erected at the charge of the Corporation, MDCCLIV., in the fourth year of King George III., for the Common Prison of the town, in the place of Goalford's Tower ; an ancient Prison and Gate, by length of time 56 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. become ruinous." The only remains of the earlier building are two ancient doors, which may have been part of the Gate. Considering its ancient corporate history, the civic buildings of Ludlow are disappointing. The best is the Butter Cross, at the top of Broad Street, which, though not more than about two centuries old, is a very quaint building, and from some points quite a picturesque one. It was no doubt built on the site of a more ancient Market Cross, such as still exists at Cheddar and Salisbury. A good feature is the clock turret, in which is a bell stated to have belonged to the Chapel of St. Leonard ; but there is no evidence of this, and if it did, it must have been re-cast, as the inscription is " All Prayse and Glory to God for ever- more, 1684," and the bells at St. Leonard's were (at any rate, originally) much older. The lower story forms a shelter for market people, and the upper has a chamber used for Sunday School and similar purposes. In it the Corporation, in accordance with an ancient custom, meet on Sunday mornings, and march, with the Mayor at their head, and preceded by two mace-bearers in black gowns, into church and up the nave to the pew set apart for their use. This procession has a very picturesque effect, which is much enhanced by contrast with another one of surpliced choristers and clergy, which, starting from the far end of the chancel at the same moment, streams slowly down the choir, to the solemn accompaniment of the organ. The ancient maces used in this ceremony are a part of the Corporation insignia, which, though not so old as that of some towns, is very handsome, and much of it the same metal as is found recorded as far back as 1594, but melted down and re-worked into other designs. Besides the three maces, there are four silver tankards, two salvers, and two tobacco-boxes of the same metal. The maces have large crowns at the top and the town and royal arms on a boss, which is bracketed out from the stem, round which in each case are three ornamental bands at intervals. The design of the two smaller ones differs from the larger one, and they are older, having the letters P R for James II., on the occasion of whose visit they were bought. The great mace, which is 3 ft. 4^ in. long, was the gift of an ancestor of the Salwey family. The inscription on the knob at the bottom is, " D.D. Johanns Sal way Armiger unus ex alder- manis villae de Ludlow 1692," Two of the tankards are THE TOWN. 57 LUDLOW CORPORATION INSIGNIA. rather small, and are ornamented with the town arms. They have massive lids, and were acquired in 1677 and 1680. The larger ones have more ornamental lids, and the lion couchant-guardant of the town arms forming part of the hinge. They were made in 1718, as also were the salvers, which are rather shallow, and have the Ludlow arms. The Market, or Corn Exchange, in the Castle Square, is a Queen Anne building of red brick, not what architects call Queen Anne, but the actual work of that reign, and a very meagre and unprepossessing edifice, though not without character.* The Guildhall, a red-brick building in Mill Street, is used as a Police Court, and for Quarter Sessions. It was erected in 1768, on the site of a former one of that name, belonging to the Palmers' Guild. DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. Domestic architecture is well represented, the best example being the celebrated Feathers Hotel, one of the * Since taken down. 58 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. finest houses of its type in the country. Its exterior no visitor will be likely to miss, but parts of the interior are equally good, and he would do well, even if a teetotaller, to visit them. In the coffee-room the ceiling is divided by moulded beams into three compartments, which are most elaborately wrought and filled with intricate ornament. The carved oak mantel-piece is said to have come from the castle, but whether or not, it harmonizes admirably with the beautiful ceiling and rich panelling of its present THE FEATHERS HOTEL, LUDLOW. THE TOWN. 59 quarters. Its most prominent feature is the royal coat of arms, with the letters I. R. for Jacobus Rex, with bold arches and pilasters flanked by grotesque figures on each side. The adjoining room has good panelling, and the Foxe arms on a carved panel over the door.* Externally the house is a striking group of overhanging gables of timber and plaster, the timbers disposed in various quaint patterns, and richly carved. There is a tradition that the house was built by one Jones, which may account for the initials R.I. on the picturesque lock-plate of the front door. There are many houses of this kind in the town, though most of them are plastered over, and otherwise disfigured and concealed. Perhaps the next best is that known as the Reader's House, in the churchyard, chiefly of stone, with a projection of timber and plaster in the front face, and the back and ends of the same material. The projection is treated with considerable elaboration, and the lower portion, which forms a porch, has much bold carving.f The inner and outer doors are also very good. The row of houses at the top of Broad Street, which project over the footpath, is the old Butcher Row, and contains some good old work ; but the whole, with one exception, plastered over. There are some fine old houses in Church Street, one of which has some good carved panelling and a bold inscription. In High Street is a fine and elaborate ceiling of the time of Queen Anne. In the Bull Ring a barge board is carved to represent a hunting scene, and there are one or two good nouses there : one fine one in Dinham, and a few at the lower end of Corve Street. The statement is often made that the groups of houses which now stand in the midst of the Bull Ring are modern additions, and that when the old pastime of bull-baiting prevailed the whole area was open. This is not the case, as the isolated houses are quite as old as those round the sides, and in a walled town space would be too valuable to use for such a purpose. Certainly bull-baiting has been practised as much since the erection of the houses as before. * The arms are, a chevron between three foxes' heads erased (Foxe), impaled with three hatchets proper (Hackeluit). On each side of the shield is a panel with a late example of the water -bouget. In the absence of any history of the house, these arms are of great interest, as connecting it with two ancient families of the district. f See illustration, page 26. 60 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. ALMSHOUSES. About half-way down Old Street, at the corner of Frog Lane, a very fine old house of timber and plaster, with a stone basement, is delightful both in form and colour. It is an almshouse for old women, and was founded in 1674 by one Thos. Lane, who had been a servant to Sir Job Charlton. He left a sum of mimey in trust to the Charlton family, with which the present house, which had been granted by the Corporation, and was already old, was repaired and furnished. At the beginning of the century it was known as the Workhouse, and behind it a small prison or cell, as the House of Correction " for securing vagrants and other petty delinquents." In the dining-room is an old coat of arms, quartering France and England, surrounded by the Garter, and having as supporters the Lion and Dragon. It is surmounted by a crown and the initials E.R. It is probably the coat of Elizabeth ; but as she generally quartered Wales and Ireland, too, it might be that of Edward VI., with whose arms and supporters it corresponds. Near the modern church of St. Leonard, in Corve Street, is another almshouse, a long low building of stone, with the Foxe arms, and date 1593. Charles Foxe, of Brom- field, by his will of same date, left the land and chapel which he had purchased, and which were a part of the property of the White Friars for the use of the occupants of four almshouses which he had begun to build there. He also provided a stipend for the curate of Ludford, to read Divine Service every Wednesday and Friday, and every Sunday and festival day in the year, and he gave two bells, which he had in his sollar at Bromfield, to be hanged up in the steeple of the chapel.* - In the middle of the last century the trust of this charity had descended to two infants, Henry and James Foxe, who were educated abroad, and during their minority the charity was badly neglected, and the chapel allowed to get out of repair. In 1769, James Foxe, there being no issue of the family of the testator, and he living remote from the place, conveyed to the Corporation the whole premises. In 1759 the tiling was taken off the roof, " as it being in so ruinous a manner as rendered it a great nuisance, and very unsafe to pas- * He had been granted the manor of Bromfield Priory. THE TOWN. 61 sengers." In 1773 the roof of the church was taken down, and the timber sold for 12 6s. 8d., and there are records of sums paid in that year during the process of destruction, as " 5 75. iod., for four waggon-load of stone tile, and two waggon-load of brick tile, 260 laths," and " two dozen crests, and another for timber and iron bars from the chancel put in the charity school." One of the bells is said, without known authority, to be now placed over the Butter Cross. The walls of the chapel remained standing till the end of the century, the land being leased to Mr. Acton for 99 years at a rent of /I i6s. From the above it almost seems as if the almshouse chapel was the church of the Carmelite Friary, but if only a subordinate chapel, the monastery must have been a very important structure. The chapel had a chancel and a steeple, with room for several bells, and must have been large, from the quantity of tiles, and from the sum obtained for the decayed roof timbers, and it must have stood near the street, as the loose tiles were dangerous to passengers. The conduct of the Corporation with respect to this charity caused much dissatisfaction in the town their having pulled down the chapel, which it was one of the objects of the charity to " preserve and perpetuate," when the inhabitants were in want of church room and burial- ground ; that the value of the materials was not accounted for, and the long lease of the chapel land granted by the Corporation to one of their own body, were causes of com- plaint. On the expiration of this lease the modern church was erected. THE MUSEUM. A group of buildings at the corner of Mill Street and the Castle Square, called the Assembly Rooms, contains a large room for balls and meetings, a reading room and entered from Mill Street the Museum of the Ludlow Natural History Society. It contains a very fine collection of Silurian fossils, a large and well-preserved collection of birds, and many relics from the castle, church, and monas- teries of the town. There are also a number of the munici- pal charters and records of the greatest interest. The documents of the Guild of Hammermen the last of the Ludlow trade guilds in the original seventeenth century 62 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. oak chests, have recently been presented by the oldest surviving member of the guild,* and are of great value in throwing light on the commercial history of the town. There is a very fine old iron-bound chest with rude Gothic ornament. Over the doorway is a relic of an extraordinary old custom which was kept up within living memory in the town : viz., the two ends, with large wooden balls attached, of a large rope, with which the following ceremony was gone through : On Shrove Tuesday, the rope, which was three inches in circumference and thirty-nine yards long, was given out at one of the windows of the Market Hall at four o'clock, and two parties of townsmen, one representing Castle Street and Broad Street Wards, and the other for Old Street and Corve Street Wards, took the ends of it, and each tried to drag the other across the town, the Broad Street party trying to dip their end in the Teme, and the Corve Street theirs in the Corve. * Mr. Thomas Cook, late of Old Street. ARMS IN LANE S HOSPITAL. LUDFORD BRIDGE FROM THE FOOT OF WHITCLIFF. CHAPTER VI. LUDFORD. Ludford Bridge Village Church Monuments to the Foxes and Charltons Ludford House St. Giles' Almshouse Whitcliff. From the Broad Gate, the street descends steeply though not so steeply as it did when defence was more important than convenience to the River Teme, where the ancient bridge of Ludford still spans the rocky and shelving bed of the stream, as it has stood for seven centuries ; for though its claims to such antiquity are not yet recognised, and it sounds almost too good to be true, I think there can be no doubt that it is a Norman bridge. The enormous bulk of its weedy and rugged piers, together with the character of the semi-circular ribbed arches, and the regularity of its square and solid masonry, all point to this conclusion. But apart from the evidence of the bridge itself, it is known from the charter of the Hospital of St. John, now in the British Museum (which hospital stood near on the Ludlow side), that a bridge existed here in the 6 4 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. reign of John. In the Fitz Warine romance, written early in the thirteenth century, is the passage : " This Joce de Dinan caused to be made below the town of Dynan a bridge of stone and lime, over the river of Temede into the high road which goes through the March from Chester to LUDFORD BRIDGE FROM BELOW. Bristol." Joce was castellan of Ludlow in the reign of Stephen. It is also mentioned in other thirteenth century documents. About the middle of the sixteenth century Leland speaks of it thus : " There be three fayre arches in this bridge over Teme, and a pretty chapel upon it of St. Catherine. It is about a hundred years since this stone bridge was erected. Men passed afore by a ford a little below the bridge." This need not affect its claim to a greater age ; it may even be taken as confirmatory, because he evidently speaks of the first bridge there erected, and we know there was one there in the reign of John ; also be- cause if the bridge was one hundred years old then, it was LUDFORD. 65 probably three hundred, for the builders of it would be very unlikely to have used round arches at any time later than that. The chapel stood on the pier nearest to Broad Street, and was well preserved in 1772. In other respects the bridge is untouched, except by the beautifying finger of Time, and there are few things in this interesting county more worthy of study by the traveller, the artist, or the archaeologist.* Close under it, on the upper side, is a ruined stone building, f through which the river flows, and which was the fulling mill given by Peter Undergod to the above mentioned hospital on its foundation by him, in the reign of John. In the deep recesses of the old bridge, safe from passing wheels, very delightful is the view looking up stream. Tall trees almost hide the rocky bank on the one hand, and on the other, besides the fulling mill, some old tanneries, and a flour-mill are supplied by a shattered old weir, over which the river foams and boils, and below it, slides over shallow shelves of rocks and beds of loose stones. The quiet pool above shows with perfect reflection the steep grey sides of the white cliff, honeycombed with quarries, and festooned with brown vegetation, except where, at one point, the tail-water of some higher mill rushing in makes a space of rippling light. Below bridge, the view is quite different, but hardly less lovely ; the river widens out into a large pool, closed in on the right by a tree-covered bank, on which is a fine half-timber house, and supported by a V-shaped weir to supply flour-mills on either side. Both mills are ancient, built with all kinds of materials, and over- hang the water in the most picturesque fashion, adding greatly to the beauty of the scene ; between them a dis- tant reach of river flowing through banks covered with trees. LUDFORD VILLAGE. Ludford is the name of the village on the opposite bank of the stream, and is doubtless so called from the ancient * Since the above was written the disastrous flood of 1886 has damaged the lower portion of the bridge, necessitating repairs, which have, unfortunately been extended to vhe upper portion, in an attempt to make it look like a new one. | This was swept away by the flood. E 66 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. THE TEME FROM THE WHITCLIFF QUARRIES. ford which existed just below the two mills at the bottom of Old Street, before the bridge was built. It now lies away from the main road, and is a quaint and interesting nook, and well worth lingering over. Passing through the iron gate into the churchyard, its principal features are well seen, church, manor-house, almshouses, and mill, all ancient. On ascending the path, the first view of the church, with its ivy-covered walls, quaint barge-boards, and magnificent churchyard trees, and the well-grouped gables and chimneys of Ludford House beyond, is very striking, and raises hopes which a closer inspection hardly sustains. For the windows are filled with new glass in large sheets, and the entire south wall has been rebuilt. Originally Norman, it has under- gone many alterations, and now consists of nave, tower, chancel, and north transept. The Norman nave was a plain, oblong, without tower or transept. This is shown by the original west wall, with its Norman window, and the fifteenth century tower built against it. The windows of the nave are all modern, but the holy water stoup indicates the position of the old south door, now gone. The chancel arch is obtusely pointed ; above it two trefoil-headed LUDFORD. 67 windows have been pierced. On the south side of the chancel is a small fourteenth century window, with a piscina projecting from its sill, which show it to have been cut from a Norman capital, with remains of sunk star moulding. The transept, or Foxe Chapel, opens out of the nave by a large semi-circular arch, and out of the chancel by a round-headed opening obliquely cut through the wall. At the first glance these two arches appear to be Norman, but a closer examination shows that only the capitals of the larger one have any Norman character. The responds and arch mouldings are of the semi-octagon type common in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. It would seem that the statement on the brass to William Foxe is correct, that he was " founder of this ile adjeyning unto this churche." He died in 1554, and it seems likely that he re-used the fourteenth century window now in the east wall, and two Norman capitals found in the course of his alterations. All the other features of the " ile," viz., two small windows, and the large one on the north with square head, and three lights crossed by a tran- som, would agree with the above date. Above the latter, on the outside, are these arms on a stone shield : quarterly 1st and 4th argent, a chevron between three foxes' heads, erased gules, for Foxe. Second quarterly first and fourth on a bend, three dolphins embowed or : which arms also appear on the drip-stone terminations. The brass above mentioned is the earliest tomb. It is a large blue slab, now upright against the wall between the two arches, with engraved, effigies to William Foxe and his wife, an inscription, and two groups of sons and daughters, and at the corners four coats of arms. The knight is clad in plate armour of the early part of the sixteenth century, but with collar and apron of chain mail. The wife has the kennel or pedimental head-dress, and tight-fitting gown ; suspended from the waist by a chain is the pomander box. The inscription is : " Here undernethe this stone lyeth ye Bodye of Wyllyam Foxe of Ludlowe, yn the Countye of Salop, Esquier, and ffounder of thys Ile adjeyning vnto this Churche, and which Wyllyam reedefyed the Almes Howse of Seynt Gyles beying decayed, and also- Jane, hys wyff, Daughter and heyre of Richard Downe, of Ludlowe, afor- seyd which Wyllyam Decessyd the XXIII rd daye of Aprill, Anno dni M.C.CC.CCLIIII, and the seyd Jane decessyd 68 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. the day A. dni M.C.C.C.C.C, on whose soules Jhu have Mercy." This tomb is an interesting illustration of the Roman Catholic revival in the reign of Mary. It was probably erected by the wife, whose executors neglected to fill in the date of her death. The next is a quaint altar-tomb against the east wall of the " ile," with two blank shields, and a rectangular piece of white stone inlaid in the upper slab, which is supported on eight plain columns. Round its margin is the following : " Expecting a joyfull resurrection heare lyeth the bodies of Edwarde Foxe, of Ludforde, Esq., who died the and Jane his wife, who deceased the ." Having been erected in their lifetime, the dates have never been filled in, but it is plainly a work of the earlier part of the seventeenth century. In the north-west corner is an altar-tomb flanked with Ionic columns, on which is a full-length effigy of Sir Job- Charlton, in the scarlet robe and black skull-cap of a judge. On a mural continuation of the tomb is a long Latin in- scription, which speaks of him as Chief Justice of Chester, Speaker of the House of Commons, and Justice of the King's Bench, and as dying in 1697. Near the last is a mural monument, with a good bust and an extremely quaint inscription in English, but too long for quotation, to Dorothy, wife of Sir Job, who died 1658. There is also another mural monument to his second wife. There are a number of fine old tiles in this chapel, but it is mostly paved with grave-stones. LUDFORD HOUSE. The earlier history of Ludford House is not very weir known, but it is recorded that a house stood here as early as the twelfth century. In the reign of William the Conqueror, the manor belonged to Osborn Fitz Richard, lord of Richard's castle. In the reign of John, Peter Undergod founded the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, before mentioned, and gave to it all his lands in Ludford. At the dissolution, the manor, being seized by the Crown,, was granted to John, Earl of Warwick, of whom it was purchased by William Foxe. It is stated to have been bought in 1607 by Sir Job Charlton, of Whitton Court ;* * Wright's " History of Ludlow," 1852. LUDFORD. 69 but this must be an error, as the date of his death on his tomb is 1697, and the apparent date of the second Foxe tomb is later than 1607 ; moreover, Edward Foxe of Ludford was Sheriff of Shropshire in 1608. This Sir Job seems to have been of a convivial disposition, the fame of his entertainments being widespread. Among other great people, King James II. enjoyed his hospitality at Ludford. In 1732, Edmund Lechmere, of Hanley Castle, Worcester- shire, married the daughter of Sir Blundell Charlton, through whom Ludford has descended to John Lechmere M. Parkin- son, Esq., its present owner. The house is very large, built round a quadrangle, and is chiefly timber and plaster of the Tudor period, but some of it, notably that side facing the churchyard, is built upon a first storey of great thickness. Probably when William Foxe bought the manor, the hospital had here buildings of greater or less importance which he incorporated in the one we see at the present day, Tudorizing at the same time the existing windows. This is conjectural, of course, but nothing seems so well to explain the extraordinary mass of masonry and timber known as Ludford House. The side towards the road, in which is the principal entrance under a pointed arch, is chiefly rubble masonry, and rather heavy and gloomy. In the other portions there is more variety, and the side next the churchyard is exceedingly picturesque, with several bold projections and fine groups of chimneys ; in one of the former, a room over the porch is the Oratory, a place for prayer and meditation, from which is a secret passage believed to lead to the river-side. The interior has been modernised in parts, but there are many fine panelled rooms and much old furniture. The family portraits include a beautiful picture of Sir Job Charlton, which has recently been copied for the House of Commons, by J. Bridge, of Shrewsbury, and some fine examples of Vandyke, Sir P. Lely, and Reynolds. There is a curious and finely preserved portrait of Richard III., and some very fine Rembrandts and other old masters. Looking from the east end of the church, the visitor will see below him a scene of unusual beauty. On his left a yew-tree of great size, and partly hidden by its branches the ancient almshouse of St. Giles, referred to on the tomb of William Foxe, its long roof picturesquely broken by three stone gables in front (the centre one containing an empty LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. PORCH AND ORATORY, LUDFORD HOUSE. niche), and has many quaintly designed chimneys in the rear. Beyond it is a fine old timber and plaster house, formerly the Bell Inn, when the main road passed round that way. Two or three thatched cottages, and the ancient garden wall of Ludford House, half-smothered in climbing plants and wild pink, bound the view on the right, and Titterstone hill towering over the house-tops completes the scene. The inscription on the Foxe brass given above shows that there was an almshouse here at an early period, as it LUDFORD. 71 had fallen into decay in the first part of the sixteenth century, and was re-edified by Foxe about that time. His building seems also to have come to grief, for the almshouse was re-founded by Sir Job Charlton in 1672, when the present building was erected. The inmates were known as the Warden and poor of the Hospital of Ludford, had power to purchase and hold land, to sue and be sued, and had a common seal. The latest use of the seal occurs on a lease in 1718. THE OLD BELL INN, LUDFORD. 72 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. WHITCLIFF. From Dinham on the north-west, to Ludford on the south side oi the town, the river Teme, reinforced by the Corve, runs under a high bank of limestone, which, with great rocky walls in some places, steep slopes of bracken- fern in others, now interrupted with crags and ragged brushwood, and now channelled with smooth valleys of green turf, supports a large space of open green-sward and THE TEME UNDER WHITCLIFF. shady grove. This space, backed by woods and fenced by belts of fir-trees, has been for ages the public recreation ground of the people of Ludlow ever since, in fact, it was given them (together with a great deal more, since sold) by Jourdan de Ludford, in the thirteenth century. From it not only the town and castle, but very beautiful views of great extent and variety are visible. Stretton Hills, Corve Dale, and Wenlock Edge are seen over the interrupted reaches of the Teme to the north. Eastward the grey wall of Titterstone is an effective background to the towers of the castle and church, and the various ranges of goodly mansions and irregularly built houses below them ; while, down the river, Caynham Camp stands forth from the surrounding woods, a dark mass against distant streaks of grey receding ranges. Opposite the castle the trenches can still be seen which were thrown up in the Parliamentary LUDFORD. 73 siege. From the Ludford end of the common a rocky path leads down to the water's edge ; and a fine reach of river, calm and quiet between foaming weirs, lies beside it as it continues to Dinham Bridge. Here other paths converge from the higher parts of the common, coming down the steep little valleys on the hillside, which are rather curiously named, as Thankful Gutter, Hornbeam Gutter, &c., the latter from the trees (Hop Hornbeams) which line it ; Gutter being the local name for a small valley. THE BULL INN YARD, LUDLOW. i! NORMAN FONT, HOLGATE. CHAPTER VII. SURROUNDING DISTRICT. As a centre for rural drives and rambles, this district is hardly to be surpassed. Without the wild and gloomy grandeur of Wales and Cumberland, it has enough of hilly and rugged character to redeem it from the too luxuriant tameness of purely lowland scenery, and can even claim a very considerable mountain, as all who climb Titterstone will testify. Indeed, one of its greatest charms is the continual variety of its scenery. Not only in verdant meadows, rich with weed and flower, and by the side of still pools or quiet reaches of stream, not only through waving corn and deep grass, can the explorer rove ; but in the gloom of thick woods, and between high over-hanging crags, under which the water rushes and raves among the stones, and on the breezy height of wild, wind-beaten heath and common, or knee-deep in bracken and gorse on the steep volcanic sides of Titterstone itself, boulder-strewn and crowned with crags. Then what district can compare with the Welsh Border for picturesque buildings ? From the peasant's cottage, whose grey and mossy thatch overhangs the patched and SURROUNDING DISTRICT. 75 weather-stained walls, the huge oven and bulging chimney suggestive of the warm ingle-nook within ; to the many- gabled homestead, of more important proportions and greater elaboration of wall and chimney, carved barge- board and moulded beam ; or to the grey walls and high- peaked roofs of the old Abbey Farm, where the fat monastic glebe is still richer than its neighbours, with its ricks stand- ing among ruined walls and arches, and its sheltered orchards, where the gnarled and mossy fruit trees yet yield abundant harvests to generations their planters little dreamed of. Not less are the " stately homes of England " repre- sented here, both modern mansions, standing out from park and lawn, and antique manor-houses, more in harmony with the glorious surroundings, their groups of chimneys and high parapets rising among trees more ancient than themselves. From still older dwellings the stateliness has departed, and naked and grim are the walls of many a baronial fortress in this once turbulent land. Nor should the traveller despise the lowly village church, for if he care ever so little for antiquity, there is still a field teeming with interest in the ancient parish churches of a district like this, despite the devastations of time and the havoc of so-called restorations " a name " (to quote the Rev. W. J. Loftie) "that covers more sins than charity itself." To see a piece of country thoroughly, there is nothing like walking, but this being out of the question for the longer distances, I purpose to show how they can be explored most readily in a series of drives and short railway excursions. CHAPTER VIII. WALK TO RICHARD'S CASTLE. Huck's Barn Overton Sunny Gutter Moor Park Haye Woods Batchcott The Castle Mound and Ruins Clark's Account Church Boney Well Court House and Dove- cot. In starting to walk southwards, it is very desirable to note that the road which crosses Ludford Bridge, and now makes a straight course, cut through the rock, towards Ashford, has not been corrected in the present Ordnance Map, though it was changed more than twenty years ago. If we pass through a gate just beyond the first cottage, which is the only one in sight, a footpath leads through fields at the back of Huck's Barn (an ancient farmhouse modernised, from which there are magnificent views of the country towards the Clee Hills), and keeps for some distance the course of the former main road. About half a mile from Huck's Barn it passes through a corner of the grounds of Overton Lodge (Roland G. Venables, Esq.) where magnifi- cent trees abound, and the large white house is seen through them to the right and down a rocky lane to the left, past Overton Cottage (Alfred Salwey, Esq.,) into the main road again. The walk so far has been through scenery of con- siderable beauty, though of the ordinary pastoral character, but the high fence of Overton Cottage is no sooner passed than a change is manifest. We are then at the mouth of the ravine celebrated by its connection with Comus, and known locally as Sunny Gutter. The road is without fence on that side, and the woods, breast high in fern and bramble, come right down to the wheel-tracks, and hang over the road to join the grand old beeches of Moor Park on the opposite side, which overshadow a pretty little modern Queen Anne lodge. The woods on the upper side of the road extend for a very great distance, and are inhabited by numbers of deer, which roam about in a wild state. A good pedestrian would find it a great treat to walk from here to Mary Knowl, and so down the Wigmore road to Ludlow. The scenery thus explored is of the most romantic and delightful kind, but it is a fatiguing piece of work, and WALK TO RICHARD'S CASTLE. 77 the path not always easy to trace. It may be much shortened by taking a path on the right some half mile up, which, entering a lane, passes into the footpath near Huck's Barn. But instead of going through the gate into the lane, the path may be followed where it winds again to the left, and zigzags through the woods for about a mile and a half, rejoining the road above Whitcliff by a path called Morti- mer's Walk. Continuing the walk to Richard's Castle, we climb the steep pitch between the park palings on one side and the unfenced woods and thickets on the other, noticing, some half mile up, a narrow cart-track into the woods, worn into deep ruts by the timber wains, which, unlikely as it seems, leads to a large house (Hay Park), grandly situated in a large deer park on the upper slopes of the Vinnall. By the roadside is a weird and lonely pool, whose waters of inky blackness have gained it the name of the "Black Pool." Of course it is haunted ; and there are people who will describe the ghostly visits of one of the Salweys, who lived many years ago at the neighbouring Moor Park, which has now passed out of the family, though they still own large estates here, and have done so since the fifteenth century. The pool once passed, the woods give place to fields and lanes, and the park has a stone wall instead of the grey deer-fence overhung with dense foliage. The road now descends a steepish bank, but if we get over a stile on the left, we can cut off a corner, and enjoy a grand view over the park towards the Clee hills, the chief point in which is the Hall, standing in a fine situation among huge masses of trees. A few years ago it was an old mansion, and was then altered and enlarged by the late Major Foster, whose widow generally resides there. As we follow the field-path, a quaint white house on the knoll in front is the residence of the Ven. Archdeacon Maddison, rector of Richard's Castle. It appears to be all of the last century, with some older out-buildings, but its strong position, and the remains of a moat on one side, suggest a greater antiquity. This, with a few houses by the wayside, is the hamlet of Batchcott, placed at the foot of another of the lateral gorges of the Vinnall, which again affords a stroll of the rarest beauty and almost endless variety ; Hanway Common forming one side, and the Haye Woods and a smaller common the other bank. 78 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. U RICHARD'S CASTLE CHURCH. RICHARD'S CASTLE. Opposite the old smithy, two lanes diverge to the north- west. The nearer one leads between high banks, notable in spring for flowers, for nearly a mile to the church. Occasional peeps on the right give the valley and woods below Haye Park, and on the left a more extensive and distant view, bounded only by the blue horizon. In this and the neighbouring lanes are numbers of fine yew-trees, which attain great size in the limestone which here abounds, though there is but one in the churchyard, and that of moderate growth. The lane, though ascending always, has not prepared us in the least for the grand and elevated site on which we find the church, and some old houses near it, to be situated ; for, standing in the churchyard, the height is such that Leominster Priory, Orleton spire, and even the Malvern Hills, can readily be seen to the south and eastward. This place takes its name from Richard Scrob, or Fitz- Scrob, a Norman at the court of Edward the Confessor, whose presence was the cause of Earl Godwin's rebellion. Of his castle (of which very little remains, and that nearly hidden in trees and rank undergrowth, at the west end of the churchyard) our greatest authority, Mr. Clark, says : WALK TO RICHARD'S CASTLE. 79 " Richard's Castle is distinguished by one of those remark- able works in earth which have hitherto in topographical books passed undescribed. It is one of a series of works common on the Welsh Border and the Middle Marches. Such were Hereford, Worcester, Wigmore, and Caerleon. . . " What invader originally threw up the magnificent earthwork which must have guided Fitz Scrob in his choice of a residence is not known, but from its summit is com- prehended one of the noblest and most extensive prospects to be found even in a quarter of England, very rich in pleasing combinations of wood and water, lofty hills, and broad fertile dales. As the new settler traversed the meads of the Severn, and left behind him the grassy meadows of the Teme and the Lugg, and rode up the rising ground to the point where his own or his son's devotion afterwards established a church, he must have blessed the fate which placed him in a country so rich, and in the possession of which the vast earthwork immediately before him would be an assurance of more than ordinary security. " What were the precise works constructed by Richard it is difficult to say ; that he converted the mound into a keep, and girt the annexed ward with a wall, is possible, though the masonry, of which vast fragments remain, is apparently of rather later date. "The castle of Richard's Castle occupies a position equally remarkable for beauty and for strength. It stands upon the eastern slope of the Vinnall Hill, an elevated ridge which extends hither from Ludlow, and a little to the west of the castle is cleft by two deep parallel gorges, beyond which the high ground recedes in two diverging ridges, of which one extends westward in the direction of Wigmore, and the other southerly to the river Lugg at Mortimer's Cross, having on the ridge the ancient British earthwork of Croft Ambrey, and below it the fortress of Croft Castle, reported to occupy an early English site. " The castle, though far below the summit of the Vinnall, stands upon very high ground, sloping rapidly towards the east. An exceedingly deep and wide gorge descending from the west bounds the position on the south, while a smaller and tributary valley descending from the north falls into the greater valley below the castle, and thus completes its strength on the south, west, and north points. The defence towards the east is entirely artificial. Upon the 8o LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. point of the high land above the meeting of the two valleys a large and lofty mound has been piled up, the base of which is about 300 feet above the valley, and the summit sixty feet higher." Leland says : " The keep, walls and towers of it stand, but going to ruin. There is a poor house of timber in the castle garth for a farmer. It belongeth PORCH, RICHARD S CASTLE CHURCH. now to the King, of late to Lord Vaux, after to Pope. There is a park impaled." The Church of St. Bartholomew is large and most inter- esting, having nave, south aisle, transept, porch, and chancel, all ancient and beautiful. There is on thejfnorth side of the nave a small blocked-up Norman window, which is the earliest feature, though the wall is probably Norman too, and there are some half-buried apertures, which seem to indicate the existence of a crypt under the chancel, which, if there, is also probably Norman. The only Early English work is the priest's door and one of the above apertures, which appears to be the head of a door, the rest of the building being fourteenth century. To the early part of this period belongs the aisle, with its fine east window covered with ball-flowers, which also appear on the capitals of the nave arcade. This aisle and the transept have their roofs and gables of the original pitch, and are both very picturesque. WALK TO RICHARD'S CASTLE. 81 The transept, which is called St. John's aisle, contains some very beautiful fourteenth century glass in the upper lights, and a broken canopy in the wall with ornament of the same date. In front of it is a late seventeenth century canopied pew of good design, and the whole church is pewed with oak, in which are many fragments of carving. Near the font (modern) is an immense coffin-lid of the thirteenth century, with an unusually bold and well-preserved foliated cross sculptured on it. The tower is separated from the rest of the church, and stands at the eastern edge of the hill, a few paces from the chancel. It had a wooden spire, which was burnt, and is now covered with a pyramidal slate roof. There are several small loop-holes and three belfry windows with plain tracery. The nearness of the castle makes it appear unlikely to have been detached for defensive purposes, and no doubt the bells would be better heard in the village below than if it stood in the more usual position. At Berkeley, Gloucestershire, the tower is detached from the church so that it should not be used in attacks on the castle. The communion plate is old, and was given by different members of the Salwey family. It is of silver, and consists THE COURT HOUSE AND DOVE-COTE, RICHARD'S CASTLE. 82 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. of three patens (two of them are large, and have the Salwey arms and this inscription, " In usum Ecclesiae de Castro Richardi ex dono Johis Salwey, Arm. Rector is A.D. 1713), a small one uninscribed, a chalice and a flagon, having each the Salwey arms and the inscription, " Ex dono Richard Salwey Arm ; in usum Paroch de Castro Richardi in com Herefordice, 1729." In the bottom of the gorge below the castle is the cele- brated Boney Well, a copious spring, in which in spring and autumn small bones are found. This phenomenon has been remarked for ages, and was noticed by Camden. On the slope here a body of Royalists, under Sir Thomas Sunderford, 2,000 strong, were defeated by Colonel Birch. A town is said to have stood here which held a charter for a fair from King John. All the houses near the church are more or less ancient, but they were more beautiful till a few years ago, when sweeping changes were made, which, with an epidemic of iron roofs which broke out recently, have made sad havoc with this parish. Descending, however, the precipitous lane which goes due east to the village, we pass some very good ones. One, near the bottom, has an immense pigeon-house with a very fine gabled roof. This is the Court House ; it has also a rich piece of half-timber work, some fine panelled rooms, and a large portion of the moat remaining. In a field nearly opposite is a very perfect and extremely curious moated area. A few more twists in the lane bring us to Richard's Castle village, where there are two inns, one ancient, and from which we can return along the Leominster Road, past a new school-house to Batchcott, whence the same route is retraced to Ludlow. CHAPTER IX. WALK TO BROMFIELD, THROUGH OAKLY PARK. Views of Castle Prior's Halton Oakly Park Bromfield Bridge Priory Village Burway. Starting through Dinham and crossing the New Bridge, we take the lane to the right, and if we still keep to the right, where it divides at the quarry, we get fine views of the castle, which on this side stands on the edge of the rock. A mile or more of pleasant lane, bounded by hedgerows, over which we get peeps of Bringewood on one side and the two Clees on the other, brings us to Prior's Halton, a small cluster of old houses, one of them displaying unusual timber- work in its gable end, and, just beyond, to the lodge-gate of f--^-~ - . DRUID OAKS, OAKLV PARK. 84 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Oakly Park. Shortly after entering, the road descends a wooded slope, on which is a large oak, which, being uprooted by the wind some years since, was turned completely over, and stands on its head with roots in the air. As we proceed through the park the scenery is varied and beautiful ; on the left the park trees stretch away for miles to join the woods on Bringewood Chase ; to the right we get glimpses through venerable oaks of the red brick walls and gardens of the Hall. The latter, the residence of Lady Mary Windsor Clive, is a Georgian building without much beauty or interest that is not derived from its charming situation on the ridge overlooking the Teme Valley, and commanding distant views of Ludlow. Shortly after passing it, we emerge through the side wicket in the lodge-gate into the road near the Teme Bridge at Bromfield. From the upper side of the bridge is a charming view of still and peaceful landscape ; the river, fringed with alders and dammed up by the mill- weir below, flows almost without visible current between the park and open meadows. Below bridge, the scene is more lively ; the still pool at our feet divides to supply mills on either side, and beyond the foaming weir, the river, winding through a wooded glade, is lost among the trees. To the left the mossy wheel of the old saw-mill, overhung with great trees, beyond it a timber-yard and cultivated ground, and, showing pale against the dark firs, the grey old Priory Church, with its ivy-mantled ruin. Passing over the bridge, in the lane beyond, made more gloomy by the shadow of tall Scotch firs, is the massive gate- house of the Priory. Let us pass into the churchyard, which was also the burial-ground of the monks, and recall what is known of its history. No chartulary remains, but that a monastery existed on this spot from a remote period, before Ludlow itself was founded, is certain, and that it was of considerable importance in Saxon times is shown by the entry in Domesday Book r under the head " Quod tenet Ecclesia Sanctae Mariae. The same church holds Brunfelde, and there it is built. It is worth 505. annually to the canons, and Nigel, the physician, has i6s. annually from this manor. There were in King Edward's time twenty hides, and twelve canons of the same church had the whole." Then follows an interesting passage in the history of the Priory : " One of them (the canons), Spirtes by name, had alone ten hides, but when he WALK TO BROMFIELD, THROUGH OAKLY PARK. 85 was banished from England King Edward gave these ten hides to Robert Fitz Wimarch, as to a canon ; but Robert gave the land to a certain son-in-law of his, which thing when the other canons had shown the king, forthwith he ordered that the land should revert to the church, only delaying till at the time of the then approaching Christmas he should be able to order Robert to provide other land for his son-in-law. But the king himself died during those very festal days, and from that time till now the church BROMFIELD PRIORY FROM THE RIVER. hath lost the land. This land Robert now holds under Earl Roger ; it is waste, and was found waste." This Nigel was physician to Roger, Earl of Montgomery, and Spirtes is known to have lived in the reigns of the Danish kings Harold Harefoot and Hardicanute, and to have been banished by Edward the Confessor. Robert Fitz Wimarch, to whom was given the land of the banished Spirtes, is believed to have been Robert the Deacon, or a Norman ecclesiastic, whose daughter was married to 86 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Richard Scrob,* who would in that case be the son-in-law mentioned as receiving the land. In the reign of Henry I. the establishment was a College of Secular Canons, but that it soon after became a regular priory is shown by the mention of Osbert, Prior of Bromfield, as witness to a deed in 1148. It was greatly enriched by Henry II., in whose reign (1155) the canons subjected themselves to the Bene- dictine monastery of Llantony Secunda, near Gloucester, and so continued till the dissolution. The habit of Bene- dictine monks seems to have varied more than that of other orders, but was generally a white tunic with a black scapular over it, and a large oval hood. In the 2oth of Edward I., the prior claimed free warren in the manor, by charter of Henry II., which comprised a grant of Infangthef ; and one Henry de la Chapelle, being guilty of theft, was tried and hanged by the prior. Pope Nicholas' Taxation in 1291 gives 23 6s. 8d. as the annual value ; at the dissolution it was 78 igs. 4d. In the fourth of Philip and Mary, the manor was granted to Charles Foxe, whose estate, including Oakly Park, passed by marriage to Matthew Herbert, whose descendant, the Earl of Powis, devised it to Henry Clive, in whose family it still continues. Looking round the churchyard, we see that the situation of the monastery was delightful. Occupying a long pen : n- sula, nearly isolated by the confluence of the Onny and the Teme, its position must have been strong as well as secluded, especially when the triangle was completed by a high wall, in which stood the present Gate-house. The refectory would be parallel to the church ; the farm, domestic offices, and mill, would occupy the slope, with cloisters between the south side of the church and the Teme, and between the west end and the Gate-house, the principal courtyard. The church remains nearly entire, and is from this side a fine object, with its tower of three stages in the earliest phase of Early English, and the high-pitched gable of the nave with good Decorated window. If we enter through the fine arch in the north wall of the tower, the lower story of which forms a porch, before us is the corresponding arch, with nook shafts and rich mould- ings, which admits to the nave. The first object of interest is the font, which is a plain example of the same early period as the greater part of the church. On the south is the coat * Richard the Scrob gave the name to Richard's Castle. WALK TO BROMFIELD, THROUGH OAKLY PARK. 87 PRIORY GATE-HOUSE, BROMFIELD. of arms of the second Charles, painted upon the wall, which was probably rebuilt when the buildings on that side were converted into a residence for the Foxe family. The north aisle is separated from the nave by an arcade of two fine Early English arches, supported on a massive round column with plain capital, and two of the aisle windows are lancets of the same period. The present nave and chancel are only the nave of the Priory church, and are continuous, but were formerly divided by a screen of carved wood-work of the Elizabethan character, in a line with the east end of the aisle ; it has been taken down and placed against the east wall as wainscoting. The pulpit is composed of well-carved oak of the same period, but put together in recent times. In the south wall is a small doorway, which, if we pass through, admits us into the ruin on that side the church. This ruin does not exhibit any features which would identify it as part of the monastery. The doors and windows are all post-Reformation, or, if the walls are part of the Priory, which is likely enough, have been inserted. A careful examination of the external walls of the church from this side, which is not accessible from the churchyard, but forms part of the grounds of Oakly Park, reveals facts not before obvious. In the east wall can be traced the old Norman chancel arch, now built up, 88 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. and a Perpendicular window inserted, showing that the chancel of the Priory church was destroyed when the latter was converted into use for the parish ; and going round to the north side, a good Norman arch of several orders in the wall of the nave, showing the . existence of a chapel or continuation of the aisle. As the east walls of the nave and aisle have good Perpendicular windows, they were proba- bly brought from the destroyed portions, and not designed at the time of the alteration. A plain trefoil-headed piscina of large size was also brought from the old chancel, and re-fixed in the built-up chancel arch instead -of the south wall, as customary. This shows the alteration to have been made in Catholic times. With the exception of a corbel table with a number of grotesque heads, under the eaves of the aisle, the above Norman arches are the only remains of the monastery of Henry I's time, and of the Saxon one which preceded it there are no traces. Most of what remains must have been built at the time when the monastery flourished under the patronage of Henry II., of which period the belfry windows, two pointed lights recessed under a pointed arch, are an example. There are no monuments of any age, but in the south wall is a fine arched recess, with rich mouldings and cusps, which was no doubt intended for the tomb of a prior or benefactor. Under it has been cut the Foxe arms, with the letters C. F. & E. F. The Gate-house is a building of two stories, the lower of solid Early English masonry, with a wide and heavy arch through the centre, flanked by massive buttresses, and the upper of timber, now restored and used as a school-room. Except two small loop-holes, the windows have been modernised. The village is scattered along the main road to Shrews- bury and its adjacent lanes. Where it crosses the Onny on a bridge of three arches is a row of Lombardy poplars of gigantic growth. They are known far and near as the Twelve Apostles, though now reduced to eight by the terrific gales of recent years. Bromfield contains a number of picturesque thatched cottages, and is altogether a very charming place, chiefly on account of its wealth of timber and the lively and varied character of its two rivers. One can return to Ludlow by rail by taking the road which turns east from the Onny bridge, past a very quaint thatched WALK TO BROMFIELD, THROUGH OAKLY PARK. 89 cottage, where the key of the church is kept ; it is not much more than half a mile to the station. One can also return to Ludlow by the main road (three miles), which is comparatively uninteresting, or by a footpath between it and the river, which is gained by a field-gate some hundred yards along the main road, and is moderately easy to find. About half-way through the fields is Burway (C. W. Wicksted, Esq.,) an old farm-house, beautifully situated among fine trees on the river bank. It is said, with some probability, to have been the Home Farm of the castle. A carving over the porch, representing a portcullis (the badge of the House of Tudor) under an arch with grotesque figures, seems to confirm this, but the building is now under- going extensive alterations. The path in another field or two passes into a lane, which joins the road near the Corve Bridge at Ludlow. GATEWAY, BROMFIELD PRIORY, FROM THE ROAD. CHAPTER X. WALK TO ORLETON, THROUGH ASHFORD, WOOFFERTON, ETC. Overton Lodge Ashford Hall Mill Ashford Carbonell Ash- ford Bowdler Woofferton Comberton Orleton Court Church. Leaving the town by Ludford Bridge, past the old manor house of Ludford, and following the Leominster road, which is here cut deeply into the limestone, we arrive in a short mile at Overton turnpike, where the road divides, and keep straight ahead for Ashford, past Overton Lodge (Richard Betton, Esq.) Another mile of level turn-pike road, through pretty cultivated country, with some fine peeps out to the left towards Caynham Camp, Tinker's Hill, and Titterstone, lies before us. Ashford Hall, on the right before we reach the village, a Georgian brick mansion, has some fine timber in the grounds (Capt. Joynson). Turning to the left, the Teme is passed on a modern bridge of a single span, and just below it is Ashford Mill, where there was a mill at the time of the Domesday Survey. This one, though not very old, is pretty from below, looking up stream. Passing along the lane parallel to the river, on a high bank to the left the little church of Ashford Carbonell lifts its quaint bell-cot above a dense mass of black yew- trees. It is an old building, showing Norman workmanship in both nave and chancel. The nave has a south porch and dormer in the roof, and is lighted by a single long lancet at the west end and a two-light fourteenth century window in each side. There are two Norman doors, one with the nail-head moulding and a low Norman chancel arch. The chancel has five windows, three fifteenth century and square-headed, one of which is in the east wall, and two small Norman ones on the north. In it are a few late mural monuments. During a recent restoration, on the removal of the plaster from the east wall, it was found that the fifteenth century window mentioned above had replaced a curious group of openings of Norman date, viz., a vesica over two small, round-headed lights, an arrangement of extreme rarity. The latter window has been removed to WALK THROUGH ASHFORD, WOOFFERTON, ETC. 91 VESICA WINDOW AND NORMAN LIGHTS, ASHFORD CARBONELL CHURCH. the south side, and the Norman ones opened and restored.* Returning over the bridge into the Leominster road, Ashford Bowdler is a picturesque village to the left. It has two or three narrow lanes of cottages widely separated by gardens and orchards, and a small church buried in trees at the back of the Vicarage. It is an unpromising little structure on the edge of the river, which here divides the two Ashfords, but, on close examination, there are several small Norman windows and a built-up Norman door, which indicate an un-looked for antiquity. There is nothing very striking between this place and Woofferton, which is a group of half-timber farms, made important of late years by the addition of a large inn (the Salwey Arms) and a station, it being at the junction of the Shrewsbury * A drawing of this east end was sent by the Vicar to the late J. H. Parker, C.B., who in his reply said : " the very remarkable east end of your church I believe to be quite unique ; at least, I have never seen one like it. It is difficult to tell the exact date of it. The two lower windows by themselves would be of the eleventh century, but it is hardly probable the vesica can be so early." The restoration also included a quantity of new stained glass and costly oak fittings, the rebuilding of the bell-cot, the removal of the dormer, and re-mounting of the old font. 92 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. and Hereford Railway and the Tenbury line. There are several places worth seeing near here, such as Brimneld, Richard's Castle, &c., but in a walking excursion Orleton is about a convenient distance. To reach it, turn to the right past the station, along the road which crosses the railway. For more than a mile there is not a house in sight ; if any exist, they are hidden among the trees. Then a pretty cottage or two, and the entrance to Comberton village, which, with the pool and half-timber farms, is a capital subject for a sketch. Indeed, the whole village is very picturesque. About half-way up the road a narrow lane turns southwards between two farmhouses. This is the nearest way to Orleton ; in fact, the shingle spire of the church is visible at once. This village is a good specimen of those for which Herefordshire is so famous, and its orchards, cottages, and farms could not easily be matched in any district. Orleton Court is a very large and interest- ing house of timber and plaster. In the panelling of one of the rooms, said to have been occupied by Charles I., is an old inscription, " Honner Him in Hart that souffered on CHURCHYARD CROSS, AT ORLETON. WALK THROUGH ASHFORD, WOOFFERTON, ETC. 93 the Crosse for Thee, and worship Him." During alterations a cannon-ball was discovered lodged in the wall. The church is very interesting, and the north side very pic- turesque. The base of the tower, west door therein, and , x v v PULPIT AND CHANCEL ARCH, ORLETON. 94 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. priests' door in chancel are Norman, remainder of the chancel Early English, with six good lancets, and niche for figure in east wall. The font has nine large figures under Norman arches. Note the fine old chest hewn out of a solid trunk, also the heads of King Edward and Queen Eleanor to right and left of chancel arch. There are remains of good stained glass coeval with the tracery in the Geometrical Decorated windows on the north of the nave. There is a very fine Elizabethan carved pulpit, and on the north side of church an ancient timber porch nearly buried in ivy, and on the south a churchyard cross, with part of the head gone, but unusually well preserved. In the east face of the base of this cross, and of others in the neighbourhood, is a small pointed niche in which it is supposed the Paschal light was burned at Easter. For those whose powers of endurance are great enough, there is a delightful walk from here through the village of Richard's Castle to Ludlow, but those who have well explored the route described above will probably prefer to retrace it as far as Woofferton Station, and take the train back. '^NB*av>.y COTTAGE AT LEINTHALL STARKES. CHAPTER XL WALK TO STEVENTON. The River-side Fold Gate Steven ton. From Ludford Bridge the road turns down stream at the Ludlow side, past the bottom of Old Street. Just beyond the second flour-mill it passes so near the river, that long reaches of " watery glade " are visible over the bushes which fringe the bank, and if we get over the stile, where the road turns to the left, these charming views are still with us. In a few hundred yards the fishing-path leaves the river side, and turns up the bank to the road, which now continues along a ridge at some height from the river. On the left, a few yards over the railway bridge, Fold Gate is a small but well-preserved seventeenth century house of brick. Rather more than half a mile ahead is Steventon a few old cottages standing at 1he corner of a lane, down which, if we turn to the right, a fine old stone house becomes visible through the trees on the river-side. Many of its windows have been tampered with, but altogether a very good Jacobean house remains. It has the moulded brick chimneys characteristic of that style, a fine old porch and doorway, and a quantity of old panelling within. The whole is now in an extremely picturesque condition, but a general renovation is impending, which will probably destroy some of it. The garden is raised high above the river by a heavy stone wall, and on the south side the moat, still filled with water, remains. The title of Manor-house is sometimes given to the old cottage just above, a name which would seem to be more appropriately applied to the large house above described ; but this cottage is said to be so called in old deeds, and it certainly has the appearance of having been part of a larger building, and contains a huge chimney, heavy beams, and carved panelling. The walk may be pleasantly continued by passing under the railway, and up the lane which presently crosses Tinker's Hill, through a deep depression which occurs about midway in its length. Descending through woods and 9 6 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. coppices, in another mile it joins the turnpike road at a picturesque house, formerly an inn called " The Serpent," possibly in allusion to some old legend of a local serpent or dragon. By turning to the left here we can return to Ludlow by Caynham Camp, or through Ashford by turning to the right. OLD FIRE-PLACE, STEVENTON. CHAPTER XII. DRIVE THROUGH WIGMORE, LEINTWARDINE, DOWNTON, ETC. Whitcliff Woods Mary Knowl Comus Valley (Sunny Gutter) Pipe Aston Elton Leinthall Starkes Wigmore Church Castle The Mortimers Abbey Leintwardine Downton-on-the-Rock Limestone Gorge Down ton Castle Clungunford. LEAVING Lndlow by the Broad Gate, and turning to the right, immediately after crossing Ludford Bridge, the road ascends between rocky banks to the undulating sward on Whitcliff, from which we get a most complete and striking view of the town and surrounding landscape. At the point where the road turns into the wood a pause should be made to enjoy the glimpse of castle towers and walls now visible above the solid masses of middle-distant foliage. After a two-mile tug up an ever ascending road, unfenced for the most part from the green vistas and leafy glades of the vast woods through which it lies, open fields appear, and the woods, getting thinner, recede, and show the buildings of Mary Knowl Farm, a little beyond which the summit of the hili is reached. Here all depends on the weather ; if the air is clear, range after range of hills are visible, and in two directions the views are grand. Below the road is the deep ravine, called Sunny Gutter (the scene of the romantic incident which suggested to Milton his masque of Comus), along the northern slope of which the road descends, till a narrow pass in the hills admits us into the flat plain of Wigmore. At the foot of the hill is the diminutive church of Pipe Aston, which is worth inspection. Its best feature is a Norman north door with richly carved tympanum ; in its centre is a lamb holding a cross, within a circle supported by an eagle and a winged ox : the symbols of St. John and St. Luke. There are one or two Norman windows, a good roof, and small bell-gable. Again following the road, we arrive, in another half-mile of undulating country, at Elton, where there is a Queen Anne mansion (Salwey family), and the church near it. The latter has been restored, but LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. NORMAN TYMPANUM, PIPE ASTON. retains its Perpendicular rood-screen of carved oak, and some seventeenth century gravestones. Here we are at the edge of a level tract of country com- pletely hemmed in by hills, and variously known as Wigmore Lake and Wigmore Hole, probably a real lake at some remote period, before the Teme forced a channel for itself through the limestone rock at its north-east corner. Still keeping the main road, we shortly descry the clump of old yews which marks the little church of Leinthall Starkes from the neighbouring fields and hedge- rows. Although a Norman fabric, the church itself is not very picturesque, but the yew-trees are magnificent. It has a double bell-gable and Norman font. A little farther is the village a long street of straggling gable-ends and fruit-tree hidden roofs. For nearly a mile its quaint cottages line the road, thereby earning for it the title of " Long " Leinthall. WIGMORE. By this time we see, across the misty hollow, with its willowy hedgerows and level fields, a pile of wooded hills ; and in front of them a smaller detached hill, crowned with large trees and fragments of ragged masonry, and on a ridge still lower, a dark and sturdy tower, ivy-clad, and capped with timber bell-cot ; and straggling over the ridge, and perched on its orchard-covered slopes, are stone and thatch and tile-roofed cottages and farms. It is Wigmore ; WlGMORE. 99 and the ruin-covered hill was the palace and stronghold of the Mortimers, the sturdy old church was the resting-place of the Shobdon Canons, and the wooded hills beyond, the hiding-place and sanctuary of the Lollard John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham. Another mile, and we have entered the village street, where over the green and weedy roofs the church rises grey among the yew-trees. Here are two good inns, where we may put up our horses and refresh. From the open space in the centre of the village, where stood, some years since, the ancient market-house, a steep and narrow lane leads to the east end of the church a large and very interesting building. It has nave, south aisle, north chapel, chancel, and tower, all on different levels to suit the rocky situation, all pic- turesque, and all, at first sight, Decorated, but on entering the south door, through its beautiful timber porch, we see at once that the original church was Norman, and had no aisles, for in the piece of nave wall which remains on the south is a well-preserved Norman window, and the column and two arches are Early Decorated, like the aisles. The piscina and sedilia are placed in the sill of one of the chancel windows, and high up in the south wall is a small piscina, extremely interesting as indicating the presence of an altar in the rood-loft. The chapel is a Late Perpendicular lean- WIGMORE FROM THE PARK. ioo LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. to on the north, and has been double its present size, as we see by one of the arches communicating with the nave being blocked up, and by the piscina still showing in the outside wall. Two chantries are mentioned by Browne Willis ; the other was no doubt at the east end of the aisle. Note the fine Perpendicular roof to the nave, and the herring-bone masonry in the north wall. Owing, doubt- less, to the proximity of the abbey, the church is entirely devoid of monumental interest. From the churchyard there is a delightful view, and at its west end a lane leads past some old thatched cottages to the castle, whose massive ruins present but a shadow of its former grandeur, though much that is interesting remains. Its double moat is still to be seen, and beyond it the massive outer walls, in which the gate-house and entrance arch, nearly buried in ivy, are conspicuous. To the left the ruins contain a few windows temp. Edward I., and on the right is a round tower projecting into the ditch. Above these we see the ruins of the keep on a high central mound, and beyond the hilly country which formed the castle park. From the ruins an extensive view is obtained of the surrounding varied landscape, with Wigmore Church and village a fine object in the middle distance ; beyond, the amphitheatre of hills towards Leominster ; to the left, the cultivated plain shut in by Gatley Hill, Croft Ambrey, the Vinnalls, and Bringewood range. THE MORTIMER FAMILY. Wigmore is first mentioned by the Saxon Chronicle, which states that in A.D. 921 " King Edward in the Rogation Days commanded the burgh at Wisingamere to- be built." The same authority says that the Danes with a great army besieged it, but were repulsed in the same year. It is named in Domesday, Ralph de Mortimer then holding, it. It is commonly stated that he received it as a reward for turning out Edric, Earl of Shrewsbury, but though Ralph did put down Edric, there is no evidence that the latter ever held the castle. It remained, with vast estates, for several centuries in the Mortimer family, " whose ambition and intrigues made more than one English monarch uneasy on his throne." In the Barons' War, Roger, sixth Lord of Wigmore, took part WIGMORE ABBEY. 101 with Henry III., and by stratagem delivered his son, Prince Edward, from Hereford Castle and brought him to Wigmore. In 1327 another Roger Mortimer received Queen Isabella and her son, King Edward III., at Wigmore, where they were welcomed with magnificent festivities, " so likewise in his forests and his parks, and also with great costs in tilts and other pastimes." This Roger, being blinded by pride, set no bounds to his ambition and osten- tation ; his own son called him the " King of Folly." He was at last surprised with the Queen in Nottingham Castle, and seized by the young king, then eighteen, whose authority he had usurped. He was hanged in Smithfield, "the body remaining on the gibbet," says Stow, " two days and nights to be seen of the people." In 1354 his grandson, also named Roger, obtained a reversal of the attainder, and it was declared in Parliament that the charges on which he had been condemned were false and the sentence unjust. This Roger distinguished himself in command of the English forces in Burgundy, where he died, leaving a son Edmund, who married Lady Philippa Plantagenet, daughter of Lionel, Duke of Clarence, which union gave to his decendants their title to the English crown, afterwards the cause of so much bloodshed. In 1424 the male line of the Mortimers became extinct, and Wigmore passed to Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, who was beheaded after the battle of Wakefield. Edward IV. resided here when Duke of York. In the war between King and Parlia- ment the castle was burnt, and has gradually lapsed into ruin. WIGMORE ABBEY. Having thoroughly examined the castle, church, and village, we take the road leading northwards, from which we see, across the wide prospect ahead, the roof and build- ings of the abbey farm ; to our left is the Castle Hill, and, looking back, the old church shows grandly above the orchards. Keeping the main road for a mile, we turn down a lane to the right, and stop before an ordinary farm-gate. On either side of it are stone buildings with no great air of antiquity, but on entering we see that they have had ancient doors and windows, and formed part of the outer court of the abbey. To the right and left are sheds, and facing us is the gate-house to the second court, a stone 102 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. GATEHOUSE TO WIGMORE ABBEY. and timber building of singular design and extremely pic- turesque. Beyond it is the abbey barn and pigeon-house ; in a line with it to the left the guest-house and foundations of the church. This is all that can be identified of the Augustinian monastery of St. James and St. Victor which flourished here, but even this is of considerable interest, and much more might be brought to light by excavation. The gate-house is a long building of two stories, the lower half of stone, with a stone arch through the middle reaching into the upper story, which is of timber, and projects on heavy oak brackets which rest on a beam supported on stone corbels. It is now used as stabling, and a doorway has been cut in the outer wall. The guest-house is a stone building with original roof, but the addition of an attic floor has destroyed its character. It retains a tall fourteenth century window on the west and a large Perpendicular one in the east, the recess of which is covered with stone panel- ling of similar design to the tracery. The lower story has some small chambers, now full of farm implements. Un- fortunately the Tudor farmhouse was burnt a few years ago, WIGMORE ABBEY. 103 and the chimneys only escaped. To the north of the house are some ivy-covered masses of masonry, which, with the foundations which can be traced under the turf, are aU that remain of the church, though there are numerous sculptured fragments lying about and built into the walls which exhibit rich Norman and Early English workman- ship. The barn is a very large structure, and well worth examining, if it should happen not to be full of straw. It was probably erected very early in the history of the abbey, and is built of timber with low side walls and extremely high and steep roof, supported on seven principals starting from the ground and constructed of timbers of the most gigantic size. Another relic is the sewer of the abbey, running under the farmyard, a huge passage arched with stone, and believed by the natives to reach as far as the castle ! The pigeon-house was a most important feature of monastic life, and probably this one is coeval with the monastery, though the weather-vane has a later date. Nearly all that is known of the abbey's history is con- tained in a manuscript, written by a canon of Wigmore in the thirteenth century, the text of which is preserved in Dugdale's Monasticon. In the account of the ruin at Shobdon on page 114 will be found a brief summary of the earlier portion, which refers to the building of the monastery there, by Oliver de Merlimond. The manuscript goes on to tell how they removed to a place on the Lugg, near Aymestrey, and were forced to leave by Sir Hugh de Mortimer and settle at Wigmore. " It was too narrow and rough to make a habitation for them," and " there was too great deficiency, especially of water, and the ascent to the church was very disagreeable to them, and how they went about the country on every side to seek and consider of a place where they could make a decent and large dwelling for themselves and others for ever." How Walter Agay- neth discovered " the place where the abbey now stands," and how they were granted the ground by Sir Hugh, removed thither their goods, and built themselves habita- tions of wood. " And not long after came Sir Hugh to visit the canons, and there, by the request of Brian de Brampton, he sent for a monk of Worcester, who, when he had marked out the site of the church, caused the founda- tions to be dug." Sir Hugh laid the first stone, Brian de Brampton the second, and his son John the third, and all 104 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. three became benefactors to the abbey, Sir Hugh com- pleting the church at his own expense. The other documents which throw light on its history relate chiefly to the steps taken at its dissolution, and it seems certain that the main buildings were destroyed immediately after. In 1574 a Dr. Dee, the celebrated dabbler in witchcraft, writing to Lord Burghley, mentions having seen while at Wigmore Castle " an heap of old papers and parchments, obligations, acquittances, accounts, &c., in time past belonging to the Abbey of Wigmor, and there to lye rotting, spoyled, and tossed, in an old decayed chappell not committed to any man's speciall charge, but three quarters of them as I understand to have byn taken away by diverse (eyther taylors or others) in tymes past." The manor seems to have passed into the possession of the Cockeram family, and then to the Salweys, whose des- cendant, Mr. Alfred Salwey, still holds it. The men who established the abbey, and passed their lives in this secluded spot, were canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, called Black Canons from their habit, a black cassock with a white rochet over it, and a black cloak and hood over that. Though bound by the rules of their order, they were not monks, and not necessarily even priests, their rule being less strict than the monks', and they wore beards, while the monks were always shaved. They were great builders, and in those early times Art, Agri- culture, and Medicine owed much to their diligent study. LEINTWARDINE. Resuming our drive along the lane, we presently pass the water-mill which the canons wandered so far to ob- tain, a pretty old building, and parts of it perhaps original. Further on at the cross roads is a quaint old farm called Paytoe, with some relics of the abbey built into its walls. Here, by turning to the left, we may prolong our drive to Leintwardine, which is a good place for a halt, or, keeping straight on, and crossing the Teme at Criftonford Bridge, return through the gorge at Downton, which route is described on next page. Choosing Leintwardine now, we keep the narrow lane to the north, till at the end of a couple of miles, turning suddenly into the main road, we get the first glimpse of the village, which is strikingly pretty. The DOWNTON-ON-THE-ROCK. I(>5 Teme, after receiving the Clun, flows across flat meadows in the foreground, and is spanned by a picturesque bridge of several arches ; beyond it the village shows through large trees, and the tall square tower of the church above them. If we have not already refreshed at Wigmore, there are two suitable inns here, one of which, the Swan, is an old house with some fine carving and panelling. " Lanterden," as it is pronounced here, has a large church, with tall tower, having a quaint staircase turret, at the end of the south aisle ; large nave, clerestory, chancel, and chapel. There is a good Norman door and other ancient features, and some interesting tombs, but within much is new. This village is a favourite headquarters for anglers, the streams being preserved by a local association, and abounding in trout and grayling. A little to the west is Coxall Knowl, claimed by local savants as the site of the last battle fought by Caractacus against the Roman invader. DOWNTON. Ludlow is about seven miles from here, and the return journey may be taken by the main road by Mocktree Hill, whence is a charming view of Leintwardine, but the Downton route next described is far the most interesting. At the bottom of the village a narrow road starts nearly east, afterwards following the slope of Totter idge Hill, and from it we get for nearly two miles delightful views of the serpentine course of the river, which winds and twists in the vale below. In two sharp turns to the left we enter the narrow valley of Downton, at the mouth of which we get a glimpse of Burrington, a pretty, but not an interesting village, the church and many of the houses having been entirely rebuilt. Here we regain the road which we left near the abbey. The limestone gorge is only beginning to reveal itself when the lane bends between high banks, from which we emerge at the diminutive village of Downton-on- the-Rock, where are some good old houses, and a church now disused, a new one having been built by Mr. Knight, about a mile away. The old one, though dilapidated, is very interesting, having a small timber porch, good four- teenth century windows, curious Norman oak font, and two Norman doors. There is also a good Early Norman chancel 106 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. arch, in the thickness of which is a staircase to the rood- loft, which remains (a most unusual thing), but the rich carving of the screen under it is sadly mutilated. The west wall contains no opening, and the solitary Early English loop in the east has been built up, and on the wall inside are two elaborate seventeenth century mural monuments. On one of them (to George Haughton) is the following epitaph, to which the present state of the building gives additional pathos : " What here you see is but a due respect To him who never did this place neglect ; 'Twas here he did adore ye highest Lord, Who to his soul rich comfort did afford ; 'Twas here he did, with great joy and content, Receive his holy word and sacrament. Since, then, he loved this sacred place so well, 'Tis very meet y l here his name should dwell." Here we leave the carriage, which will go on by the road and wait on the other side of Downton Castle, while we go back down the lane to a point where there is a gate into the wood, and follow the cart-track, which descends steeply to a picturesque stone bridge with a wooden parapet. The water is deep and calm between rocky banks, of a peculiar green colour, and so clear that the trout can be seen dis- porting themselves in its transparent depths. Crossing the bridge, the path turns to the left along the river-side. On the opposite bank is a pretty cottage, half hidden in the rank vegetation, with its strip of garden-ground hardly distinguishable from the wooded bank which rises behind. As we proceed, the open glade, through which the river sweeps with foaming current, soon narrows to a wild and rock-bound cleft, where the trees, springing from crevice and fissure, wreathe themselves into fantastic sprays and masses, among which the sky is only seen at intervals. Fairly within the gorge the bank on this side recedes, and the trees are of large size, but on the opposite side the pale limestone rocks rise vertically from the water. Farther down there is a place where the timber has been felled, and there is an open space among the beeches, whose com- panions lie prone amid the flowers and brambles. The river is still now, and glides beneath the boughs almost noiselessly ; but through the leaves comes the distant murmur of a weir, as yet invisible faint at first, but grow- ing louder at each step, till a turn in the path shows an old THE TEME AT HAY MILL. 107 THE TEME AT DOWNTON. building through the stems, and below it the roofs of a larger one nes tling under the bank, and then, as we descend into the level sward between the woods and the river, the loud roar of the pent-up stream bursts upon the ear. Our first impulse is to make for the narrow footbridge which spans the stre am close to the house, and, on gaining it, the scene which meets our eyes is one which, far or near, it would be difficult to match for wild, secluded beauty. On the left the Hay Mill, in the deep shade of overhanging trees, its mossy wheel half hidden by the grass-grown masonry which divides it from the r iver-bed and the pent- house roof overhanging it. Above the weir the trees stretch their branches so far as to completely choke the chasm with foliage. On the opposite side the grey lime- stone stands up from the water in a perpendicular cliff, to io8 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. which the hazel and bramble cling in ragged luxuriance. For a long distance the woods approach the stream, often hanging over it, and the path continuing generally beside its edge, but sometimes mounting a slight eminence, gives great variety, and affords occasional peeps of fine reaches of river. In one place the rock closes in upon the water, so that a passage has had to be hewn through it, and the path winds for a time through a romantic cavern. Not far from here a rather good saw mill is passed on the other side the stream, and soon after the Castle Bridge, a stone structure of three arches, from which a pretty road winds up to the Castle. The latter was erected about the middle of last century by Richard Payne Knight, who paid great attention to domestic architecture and to landscape gardening of the wilder and more picturesque school, and to whose refined taste, and that of his family, is owing the preservation of the park and river scenery in all its natural beauty.* Ascend- ing the slope, we see the castle is a very state!}' but incon- gruous edifice, placed in a most charming situation, and commanding views of extreme and varied loveliness. After passing along the sunk fence into the road, we find the vehicle awaiting us, and, turning to the east, very soon enter the main road, and following it for nearly two miles through some good scenery, of which Bringewood is the chief feature, enter the village of Bromfield, which, with the return route, will be found on page 83. CLUNGUNFORD, ETC. If the traveller prefers to continue north of Leintwardine, an interesting piece of country may be seen, returning through Stokesay, but this district is easily explored by rail via Craven Arms. Broadward Hall is a curious stone building near the Clun, and close at hand is Heath House, an old red-brick mansion of the seventeenth century, with an extraordinary staircase of oak, hung with ancient tapestry. On the same estate, a little to the west, is Hop- ton Castle, a small but nearly perfect Norman keep. There is another fine castle at Brampton Brian, a mile or two west of Leintwardine , which withstood a famous siege in * This walk through the Downton Woods is, by permission of A. J. R. Boughton Knight, Esq., open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays. CLUNGUNFORD. 109 the Parliamentary wars, and whose ruins are still large and of great interest. A mile and a half to the north-west of Hopton Heath station, Beckjay Mill, on the Clun, is very picturesque, and was a favourite subject with David Cox. Clungunford House stands in a park just above (J. C. L. Rocke, Esq.,) and is modern. The " Rocke Arms " in the village is a good little inn, and the place generally pretty and interesting. Just above the inn is a large half-timber farmhouse, with some fine groups of perforated chimneys, called Abcott Manor-house. It has some panelled rooms and ornamental ceilings within, and was long the residence of the Princes, to whom there are monuments in the church. The latter stands just across the river, and is well worth visiting. Chiefly thirteenth and fourteenth century, it has some very good windows, of the latter period. One of them in the north-west angle of the chancel is an interesting instance of the low side or leper's window, as to the use of which so many theories are held. Externally it is not now very different from the others, except in reaching lower down the wall. Within, it has arrangements for a seat, and hinges as if for a wooden shutter. On the north side is a lean-to chantry of similar date. It communicates with the chancel by two arches, one large and the other smaller. In the wall under the east wall is an aumbry or locker. Two of the bells are mediaeval, having inscriptions and the stamp known as Royal Heads assigned to Edward I. and Queen Eleanor. A little north of the church is a tumulus, in which were found, some years since, a number of bronze spears and other implements of an unusual character. There is a picturesque village at Broome, one and a half miles north of Clungunford, and a station on the Central Wales Railway, from which Craven Arms is about three miles. The station is called Broome and Aston, from Aston-on-Clun, in the parish of Hopesay, a mile or so due north. The church at Hopesay is ancient and interesting, and so is Sibdon Castle, in spite of the peculiar Georgian patchwork on the principal face. CHAPTER XIII. DRIVE THROUGH WIGMORE TO AYMESTREY, KINGSLAND, ETC. Wigmore Hall Deerf old Forest Leinthall Earles Croft Ambrey Gatley Park Aymestrey Mortimer's Cross Shobdon Court Priory Village Kingsland Eyton Yarpole Lucton Croft Castle Church Bircher. THIS drive, as far as Wigmore, is described at page 98. If from that point, instead of turning north, we follow the principal street past the Castle Inn, and under the fine elms which line the park of Wigmore Hall (Major General Franklin), we shall presently emerge in front of the latter building, which is very agreeably situated on the slope, with woods behind, and can be recognised as an old half- timber house, in spite of more modern plasterings and additions. After passing two or three quaint cottages, we are in the open country, with the Wigmore hills receding behind, and those of Aymestrey and Croft rising in front. To our right is Deerfold Forest, a tract of primeval wood, interesting as the refuge of the Lollards in the time of Henry V., and as containing a specimen of that botanical rarity so venerated by the Druids the mistletoe oak. LEINTHALL EARLES AND CROFT AMBREY. A narrow lane to the left is the main approach to Leinthall Earles or Little Leinthall, a small village at the bottom of the valley, between Gatley Hill and Croft Ambrey. Its numerous thatched cottages and barns are dotted among the orchards, in true Herefordshire fashion, and its quaint little church, though plain, is not uninteresting. The bell- cat is placed a little east of the gable, and is octagonal in shape, but covered with a conical roof. The west wall is stone to the level of the eaves, and timber and plaster in squares above ; against it is an open timber porch (a most unusual position), and over it a window. The south wall is supported by two huge buttresses, and contains a Norman loop or two. From this village the camp on Croft Ambrey may conveniently be visited. The lane starts due south, CROFT AMBREY. in leaving the village where there is an old-fashioned stone farmhouse at one corner, and a cottage with carved timbers a little on its left ; and goes straight up the hill-side, be- coming in the upper part more like the stony bed of a stream. At about a third of the ascent it ceases, and the steep bracken-covered common is almost trackless. A little higher is a well which supplies water to Gatley Park, an old-red-brick house, Jacobean or later, which stands part way up the opposite hill, nearly hidden by trees. It has a good group of red-tiled gables, with a mass of chimneys in the centre, and large ivy-covered porch ; and is approached from the village by a long winding ascent through chestnut trees. A stiff climb from the spring brings us to the first entrenchment, within which rises a second, and the oval space on the summit is reached. The site is now covered with trees, more or less thickly, but the entrenchments are of great size, and can be made out easily. There are only two on the steep side by which we have ascended, but on the south, where the slope is more gentle, there are as many as four, all well defined. Croft Ambrey is one of the chain of British Camps which reaches from the Malvern range to Coxall Knowl, and is said to have been so named from Ambrosius. There is from it a most magnificent view, extending, it is said, into thirteen counties. From the Black Mountains in Breconshire to the Malverns and the Clee ; from the high summits of Montgomeryshire round to the Longmynd and Caer Caradoc range, the eye follows with delight the swelling hills and vast undulating plain, till they die away at the edges into the horizon. Down the northern slope of the camp the romantic and beautiful demesne of Croft Castle, richly clothed with ancient timber, stretches away towards the distant flats where the blue smoke of Leominster and its Priory tower are faintly seen. AYMESTREY. But at present we have to continue our drive from Wigmore towards Aymestrey. Nearly a mile beyond the turning for Leinthall the road passes under an avenue of fine elms, reaching a mile or more to the grounds of Yatton Court and the entrance to Aymestrey village. Here the Lugg is crossed by a bridge of three arches, and the river is open to the road, making with the old houses on the other 112 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. side a pretty scene. Here is a good inn, and the houses are scattered for some distance along the village street, which is only moderately picturesque, except where at the far end the church shows its battlemented tower above the fence. The latter is a pleasing object (though in a very low situa- tion), and very interesting. Most of the nave, tower, clerestory, and chancel are fifteenth century work, but the interior is chiefly Decorated. There are four pillars on each side, of very unusual design, a group of small shafts half-detached from a larger one, and supporting three pointed arches. There is a very handsome chancel screen of the fifteenth century carved oak, carried partly on corbels and partly on wooden uprights and similar screen- work is continued round the east ends of the two aisles so as to form chapels. In the chancel are some good Jacobean tombs, and a carved oak pulpit of the same date. It was not unusual on the Welsh border to build the church so as to be available for defence in case of emergency. Aymes- trey is an interesting example of this. The doors are very strong, and fastened by an arrangement rarely met with, except in mediaeval castles. A square beam of wood is drawn from a hole in the masonry of the jamb, to a corres- ponding hole on the opposite side. The base of the tower, which is also the porch, is vaulted, and has a circular open- ing through the stonework for hoisting bells, so that the defenders could not be burnt out, and could take pot shots at any assailants who might be attacking the door. The room above has narrow windows, very much splayed in- ternally, and with window-seats on each side, forming a kind of guard-room. A very curious early fourteenth century clock from this church is preserved in the South Kensington Museum.* SHOBDON. At the next turn seyeral roads meet at a spot which has given the name to a world-renowned and sanguinary battle Mortimer's Cross. Such a place was a favourite spot in early times for erecting a wayside cross, and perhaps one of the Mortimers had done so at the cross roads nearer to Leominster, where the pillar now stands to commemorate the great struggle between Yorkists and Lancastrians ^ * Since the above notes were taken, the church has been restored. SHOBDON PRIORY. 113 There is here a large inn, a water-mill on the River Lugg, and an old bridge of three arches over it ; but our way lies in the other direction, along the narrower road to the right, and in a short distance along a still narrower one, also to the right, which being rather elevated gives a good view over the flat country round Leominster. In less than a mile this lane brings us to a lodge gate in a fringe of trees, after passing through which we descend a long slope in the Park towards Shobdon Court, a brick and stone building in the Louis Quatorze style (the seat of Lord Bateman), standing among cedars of extraordinary size. Close to it is the church, the tower old and ivy-covered, and in the graveyard a Norman font, with good sculpture ; but the body of the church was rebuilt in the " Gothic style " in 1752, and is very ugly. To the north-west of the church, on a grassy eminence, are the remains of the one which was pulled down, or, more accurately, of Shobdon Priory, which were re-erected here by the late Lord Bateman. There are five arches, one large and central, and two smaller on each side ; which, though now placed in a group, must have been brought from different parts of the original building. They are perhaps the finest examples of late Norman work that exist. The large arch has a number of nook-shafts, which are covered, as well as the capitals, with the most elaborate sculpture. Besides many of the richer mouldings met with in Norman work, figures, dragons, and intricate interlacing foliage are lavished on the surface decoration with the richest effect. The two nearest the centre form an obtuse angle with it, and have solid tympana carved with large figures ; that on the north representing the Deity within an aureole, and that on the south the entry of our Saviour into Jerusalem. The outermost arches are similarly treated to the central one. It will be seen what a unique example it presents of Norman work, by the fact of it having been selected by the founder of the Architectural Depart- ment in the Crystal Palace to represent the later Norman period in the fine series of architectural examples there. It is a matter for congratulation that so perfect a cast is preserved, not only for the sake of students, but on account of the corroding action of the weather on the original work. Mr. Parker, the great archaeological authority, says in his Manual of Gothic, after speaking of certain of the above details : " Shobdon Church is altogether one of the richest examples of Norman sculpture in existence." H ii4 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. The only recorded history of Shobdon Priory is included in that account of Wigmore Abbey written in Norman- French by one of the canons in the thirteenth century, and copied in the Monasticon. The opening passages are much too long for quotation here, but they are devoted to an account of " the very noble bachelor, worthy, valiant, and bold Monsieur Hugh de Mortimer," who lived in the reign of King Stephen and his steward, Oliver de Merlimond. " At that time there was in Shobdon no church, but only a chapel of St. Juliana, and that was of wood, and sub- jected to the church of Aymestrey." Then follows an account of the building and dedication of the new church, which from internal evidence was in 1141, and the instal- lation therein of two monks from the Abbey of St. Victor at Paris. " He gave them in like manner his farm at Ledecote, with granges full of wheat, and oxen, and sheep, and pigs in great plenty, and two carucs of land." Bishop Robert de Beton (1131 to 1148) at this time having quar- relled with the Earl of Hereford and excommunicated him and the whole city, came to Shobdon at Oliver's request, and lived among the canons. On his departure, the canons, finding it very lonely, requested their Abbot to replace them with others knowing the English language, and re- turned to Paris. Their successors, however, had many quarrels with Sir Hugh, and also returned to their abbey, and when he had finally made peace with them and con- firmed their various grants, they discovered " that the place was very far from water, of which they were much in want, and determined to remove thence to Aymestrey, in a place they call Eye, close to the River Lugg, and there laid the foundation of the church, as people who proposed to fix there a lasting habitation. But it happened other- wise, for there arose at that time a very great war between Sir Hugh de Mortimer and Sir Joce de Dinan, then lord of Ludlow, and Sir Hugh was surprised and held prisoner in Ludlow Castle until ransomed. About this time the canons were desirous of having an abbot over them, and one An- drew, from the same abbey of St. Victor, was sent over and consecrated abbot by the bishop. Soon after, the friends of Sir Hugh observed the church which the canons had erected at Aymestrey, and advised him not to suffer that work to be finished there at the entrance to his land, lest his enemies might come and have there a lodging-place and KINGSLAND CHURCH. 115 stronghold in despite of him, for he had on all sides many enemies ; and he acted after their counsel, and made the canons remove to the town of Wigmore," where their buildings would be under the eye of his own garrison. The rest of their wandering and the foundation of the abbey is given in the account of Wigmore. Lost in bewilderment as to what could have induced any one to turn such marvellous work out of doors, in order to set up such a meagre and tasteless absurdity as the present church, we return down the hill, and, leaving the church and Court on the left, descend a narrow road past the stables, enter the village street, and turn to the left along half its straggling length of thatched roof and gable end, not so picturesque, but perhaps more flourishing than some we have passed. We turn to the right soon after leaving it, and again to the right, into a bare and uninteresting lane, which very soon touches the railway at a level crossing, and enters the outskirts of the considerable village of Kingsland. KINGSLAND. In that part of it which lines the main road are two good but small inns, some fine old houses, and a very singular tree a Scotch fir with an immensely tall and smooth stem, on the extreme end of which is a bunch of foliage. It is very rare to find an entire church of the Middle-Pointed or Decorated period, but St. Michael's, Kingsland, which lies among fields to the south of the main street, has only one or two features which are not in the finest phase of that style, viz., an Early English lancet on the south of the chancel, a fine fifteenth century wooden porch, and an addition of the same period on the top of the tower. Clerestory, aisles, tower, and chancel all afford beautiful and curious examples of Middle-Pointed detail, the only drawback being the ugly slate roofs. On the north side is a very curious little chantry chapel, on the east of the porch and opening out of it. In it is a large stone coffin under a richly cusped mural arch. It is lighted by an east window, filled with very intricate and unusual tracery, some side openings of different shapes, which appear never to have been glazed, and a window under the mural arch, having a number of straight, narrow apertures into the church. The clerestory has circular windows. n6 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. each with varied tracery, an arrangement very rarely found except in this county, where there are one or two other instances. A well-preserved sanctus bell turret stands on the east nave gable, and altogether this is a most remark- able and beautiful building, and well worth careful study. This place is also the farthest point we can extend the drive to, consistent with leisurely sight-seeing both ways ; we may, therefore, make a longer stay, and seek refresh- ment for man and beast. Two inns, the Bell and the Corners, stand at the junction of a smaller road with the main village street, and along this road, facing north-east, we start for the return journey, making straight for the River Lugg, and, in crossing it, leave the flat country finally for the hills and dales by which Ludlow is environed. Just across the bridge, a lane goes due east for two miles through some very broken and untouched country to Eyton. The farms and houses of this parish are many of them very rustic and beautiful, but it lies too wide of the route to be undertaken now. Its little church has been restored some years since, but contains, among other ancient remains, a fine rood-screen of the fifteenth century and a good timber porch of slightly later date. YARPOLE. On leaving the Lugg bridge, the lane winds among wooded hills to the top of a bank at a place called Basket's Gate, where is a cottage so quaint in outline as to be worth remembering. Descending as quickly into a crooked, shut- in little valley, the view of woody hills and green hollows is soon lost, but presently regained with the addition on one of the nearer ridges of a curious stumpy spire. Ruddy orchards are round us as we enter the old-world village of Yarpole, of which the chief thoroughfare is enlivened by a small, clear stream. Down a side lane to the left, our attention is at once drawn by the large yew-trees of the churchyard, and a singular detached belfry. The church itself has been almost rebuilt, and is a neat edifice, containing little of interest besides a font with shallow Norman arcading. But the detached belfry, which stands some yards to the north-west, is very delightful. It has a lower story of heavy masonry, with narrow loopholes ; the upper part, of wood, with the bells, is supported on a framing of large YARPOLE AND BIRCHER. 117 beams planted in the ground independent of the walls. Under the eaves of the upper part are a number of quatre- foil openings on each side. These detached towers are believed to have been so placed for purposes of defence a theory supported by their loopholed walls and the absence of windows in the lower stories, also by their being most frequent on the Welsh Border. At the corner of the village street is a small, ancient building of stone, the original purpose of which it is difficult to determine. Local tradi- tion states it to have been a temporary resting-place for bodies on the way to the churchyard. It has a round archway in both side walls, and was more probably a gate- house to a small monastery. Yarpole possesses a mill more efficient than picturesque, and a great many delight- ful old houses. Turning north-east from the centre of the village, we join the highway at four cross-roads, with Bircher village to the left. Bircher Know], a clump of timber on a considerable mound, is passed at the point where we enter the main road from Leominster to Ludlow. Beyond here the road is bare and open, but commands views of considerable variety and beauty to the east and north. Just off the road to the right is the large and pic- turesque village of Orleton, for account of which see page 92. It will repay exploring, if time will allow, and the next lane will take us to it. It was the birthplace, in the thirteenth century, of the great Adam de Orleton, who was so promin- ent in political affairs at the beginning of the fourteenth. He was Bishop of Hereford in 1317, of Worcester in 1330, and died Bishop of Winchester in 1345. To reach Ludlow from Orleton the natives take the lane from the church end of the village, through Comber ton and Woofferton, which they call the lower road, but, though much more hilly, the upper one is shorter and far more beautiful. To reach it we take a side lane near the Boot Inn, and crossing a little ford with footbridge, below the mill, re-enter the main road at an inn with an old-fashioned sign, the Maidenhead, and turn to the north. This road for some miles runs parallel to the Vinnall range of hills, and is very pretty. Richard's Castle village is about two miles on the way, but the best part of it lies away from the road. The church and some ruins of the castle have been already described ; they stand about a mile away, at the top of a very steep lane, and are finely situated. Unless very n8 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. enthusiastic, we shall now keep the main road, leaving them for a future examination. Nothing calling for remark occurs between here and Batchcott, which, with the rest of the route, is described at page 76. LUCTON. If too long, this drive can be very much shortened, and some fine country explored, by turning eastward when at Mortimer's Cross, instead of west towards Shobdon. In the first mile Lucton, famous for its school, is passed. Lucton Chapel is a handsome building, but quite new, with the exception of a fine Early English font and a monument to the founder of the school. It stands on the right hand, at some distance, and the school, a large, square Queen Anne building, nearer to the road. The latter was founded by John Pierrepont, vintner and citizen of London, 1708, who, " being unmarried, and having, with the blessing of God and the applause of men, gained a plentiful estate, retired to his native place to dedicate the greatest part of it to pious uses." CROFT. On our left the whole slope of Croft Ambrey is occupied by the picturesque park of Croft Castle (Rev. W. T. Kevill- Davies), which stands among avenues and clumps of magnificent trees, and is from this side a somewhat un- promising edifice. But following the road to the little village of Cock Gate, where there is a lodge at the corner of the park, an avenue a mile in length (of oaks of gigantic girth for the first half, and the rest of venerable beeches) approaches it from a better point. From the park there are grand views of the neighbouring country, especially towards Leominster, whose Priory tower is a prominent landmark. Croft Castle is ancient, but has suffered alteration in modern times. It is rectangular in shape, with an ivy-covered round tower at each angle. The original curtain walls remain, but have been pierced with a number of modern sash windows, especially on the south side, which has been embellished with eighteenth century Gothic projections. On the north are considerable Elizabethan additions. Near it is the church, an interesting little building, chiefly CROFT CASTLE AND CHURCH. 119 of the fifteenth century, but containing one or two windows which are fourteenth century, and a few sixteenth. It has a very quaint bell-turret of Jacobean style, with a leaden ogee-shaped roof. The chancel has a good ancient roof, and the entire gangway of the nave is paved with ancient encaustic tiles. Against the north wall of the chancel is an exceedingly fine altar-tomb of white freestone to one of the Croft family. Upon it are two large effigies of a knight and lady, and on the western end, which is carried up about ten feet high and projects in two canopies over them, are niches for ten smaller figures of saints and angels, seven of which remain, and along the south side ten more. In the figure of the knight the armour is a plain example of that in use at the end of the fifteenth century. The only unusual feature is the mentonniere, a continuation of the collar in front of the chin, on which the helmet fitted. The lady wears her hair in a reticulated head-dress, over which is a veil or kerchief arranged in the pedimental form. There is no CROFT CASTLE. inscription, but the costume shows it to have been executed about 1490. The only other tomb of interest is a slab to Sir William Croft, who was killed in a skirmish near Stoke- say Castle while fighting for King Charles in 1645. This family is of great antiquity, having owned this property in Saxon times. Sir Bernard Croft lived here in the reign of Edward the Confessor. His successor, Sir Jasper a Croft, was deprived of his estates by the Conqueror, but his 120 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. descendants soon recovered possession, and continued at Croft till towards the middle of last century, when the estate was bought by Somerset Kevill-Davies, Esq., the father of the present owner. From Cock Gate the road goes east towards Bircher, a small village of quaint farmhouses (one of which has an old pigeon-house), at a point where the road makes a sudden angle. Here we turn to the left, and join the Leominster and Ludlow main road near Bircher Knowl, from which point the route will be found described at page 117. CHAPTER XIV. DRIVE THROUGH STOKE ST. MILBOROUGH TO BROWN CLEE, TITTERSTONE, ETC. Rock Green Dodmore Middleton Crow Leasowe Ascent of Titterstone The Moor Stoke St. Milborough Cold Weston Brown Clee Bouldon Heath Chapel Peaton Corfham Castle Sutton. LEAVING the town by Galdeford, the road begins a gradual rise towards the hills, of which Titterstone is the principal range, and is already conspicuous, standing purple and dark behind the nearer field-covered heights. About half a mile from the town, at a cluster of houses called Rock Green, a footpath turns to the left between two cottages and across a field or two to Dodmore, a Tudor, half-timber farm-house. It has much ancient character, and one room contains a fireplace of carved oak. The country opens out immediately after passing Rock Green, and shortly after- wards we turn to the left, at a point called Mount Flirt, where the road forks, and at the next fork pass under the little Bitterley railway, and over the Ledwyche Brook. The railway is not for passenger traffic, but for bringing down the celebrated Dhu Stone from the hill. The village of Middleton lies a few hundred yards to the left. In it are numerous old houses, and a small church, rebuilt in the Norman style, but whether a copy of the old one or a new design it is difficult to say. On the high wooded hill be- yond the village, Downton Hall, a fine mansion, the seat of Sir C. H. Rouse Boughton, Bart., is distinguishable through a gap in the woods. The Clee Hill is from this side along rocky edge, culminating to the north in a grand crater-like mass. Rather more than a mile from Middleton, Crow Leasowe, a pretty seventeenth century house, is passed on the left. A row of fine trees leads to it from the road, and in front of the house is an oak of gigantic girth, about the largest in the district. The chimneys, doorways, and gables of the house are elaborately ornamented with moulded brick. Round Thorn is the next group of houses on the left, and here in making the ascent of Titterstone, if the summit is aimed at is a good point to turn off. LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. DODMORE. TITTERSTONE. The lane is narrow and crooked which leads from here to Clee Stanton, where there are one or two farms at the foot of the mountain, at which a vehicle can be put up while the hill is explored. Very few fields then intervene, and the open hillside is soon reached, covered with bracken and crowned with crags, like its bigger brothers in Wales ; for the basaltic rocks at this end, unlike the more southern portion, are untouched, except by the action of the ele- ments, and the splintered and shapeless masses that have toppled from the upper ledges lie in a slope of wreckage, which is far from easy to climb. On the apex itself a group of huge blocks is traditionally known as the Giant's Chair ; the whole scene being weird and savage to a degree sug- gestive of the goblins and malignant spirits which were supposed to haunt this spot, which the foxes have now to themselves. It is said that a rocking stone once existed here, and that from it the name of Titterstone is derived. There is a bank surrounding the space on the summit, and a number of smaller circles within, all having the appearance of artificial enclosures, though not sufficiently well pre- served to be explainable. Coal was got here with other minerals in the time of Leland, but in recent times the supply has run short, except on the north-east and south slopes, and at Knowbury, where the pits are still worked. STOKE AND COLD WESTON. 123 Adequate description of the scenery visible from here being out of the question in the space allowable, it must suffice to enumerate briefly the main points of interest. The day being only moderately clear, a great extent of varied landscape is visible ; in thick weather, of course it is greatly limited, though still beautiful ; when absolutely clear, sixteen different counties, with their landmarks, besides towers and villages innumerable, are readily made out. Ludlow, always charming, is seen as if it lay in a hollow amphitheatre of woods and hills, instead of its usual elevated site ; beyond, the heights of Radnor Forest and the Beacon, with the Black Mountains in Breconshire and the Sugar Loaf near Abergavenny to the south-west. Southward, the Knowl buttress of the Hill stretches a great distance, and where it dies off into the Teme Valley, can be seen the little town of Tenbury, with St. Michael's College at Oldwood, and the distant plateau to the east of Leominster. More to the east, the Abberley hills with the camp on Woodbury Hill, and the distant valley of the Teme fading away towards the Severn, and the Malvern Hills, on whose sides the houses can be distinctly seen. Still more eastward, the glittering roofs of Witley Court and the grey towers of Worcester. Among undulating banks and hollows, the spire of Cleobury Mortimer " standythe," as Leland says, " in the Rootes by Est, of Cle Hills," with the Royal Forest of Wyre stretching dark beyond, and, still more remote, the heights of Kinver Edge. Bewdley, Kidderminster, and Stourport, can readily be identified on the same side. Northwards the rival peak of Brown Clee (1,806 feet) stands boldly forth, but the view extends over Corve Dale, beyond Wenlock Edge and Siefton Forest to the Longmynd and the Wrekin. STOKE ST. MILBOROUGH. Beyond Round Thorn, nothing calls for remark till Lower Moor is reached, an old house with an immense stone chimney, and a carved coat of arms. On the same side is the Moor, a large white house, the residence of Capt. W. Kevill-Davies. Just beyond on the opposite side is an old farmhouse of timber, with some remarkable windows and chimneys at the back, and very picturesque. A little 124 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. further is the turning to Stoke St. Milborough,* and Clee Downton is still higher up the main road. At the latter place are some good seventeenth century houses of stone, and wildish scenery. We now turn off down the lane to Stoke, and dipping down into the valley, follow its windings by the brookside for more than a mile, and then turn to the left towards an old stone and timber mill, which we see to be ancient by the old dripstones, over which the square grey tower of the church is conspicuous. The village is romantically situated, but except the church only moderately pretty. The latter has a fine Early English tower, upon which a stage has been added in the fourteenth century. The arches within are very good instances of the earliest phase of Early English, and there are many four- teenth century windows of good and unusual design. In front of the old timber porch is a slab with a geometrical cross partly incised and partly sculptured. By taking the steep lane which climbs the slope on the north of the church, and turning to the left at the top of the first bank, the long ridge of Weston Hill is surmounted, and quite suddenly, without the slightest warning, on emerging from the thick hedgerows which shut in the lane, a view of exceeding grandeur bursts upon us. The wide vale of Corve is spread out before us, and from Abdon Burf on the right, across the whole range of Wenlock Edge to the Stretton Hills and the Longmynd, the view is without limit, and only partially disappears as we descend the un- fenced road to Cold Weston. The little Church of that name lies across the fields a few yards, and is one of those rude Norman Chapels which are not uncommon in the county. It has a good octagonal font, some windows, and a north door, which are Norman ; but a number of modern lancets have been added. A mile or so farther, the views are still good, and to the right, indications that we are drawing near the village of Clee St. Margaret. At the corner of the road is a queer old house projecting over the path ; another has a stone sign announcing it to be the Leg of Mutton Inn, but it is an inn no longer ; beyond is a footbridge and mill where the road crosses the rocky bed of * St. Milburga was the daughter of Merewald, founder of Leomin- ster Priory, and granddaughter of Penda, the great King of Mercia. She was prioress of Wenlock, and was buried there in the seventh century. STOKE AND COLD WESTON. 125 the stream, and at the same point is a footpath to the church, its wooden bell-cot already showing over the or- chards. There is a quantity of Saxon herring-bone work in the chancel, and a few features which are possibly also pre- Norman, viz. : south door, and oddly shaped and narrow priests' door ; very good little Early English chancel arch, with wooden doors, square hagioscopes on each side, carved pulpit, and a number of very good early benches a thing very rarely seen ; also curious fourteenth century window without tracery, and plain circular font. Of the two peaks of Brown Clee, which rise a few miles to the east, Abdon Burf is the principal, and 1,805 ^ eet above the sea. There are evidences on the summits of what must have been pre- historic fortifications, there being remains of a number of hut-circles, and a huge vallum of stone, 1,317 feet by 660 feet. Between Abdon Burf and this village, and about a mile to the east of the latter, is Nordy Bank, a well-defined Roman camp, and one of the most perfect remaining. A deep fosse encircles it, and there is a vallum with a slope of twelve feet. From here (Clee St. Margaret) it will be best to turn north-west for about a mile to the village of Bouldon, where is the only inn of this inhospitable region. Horses may rest here, and refreshments be ordered, while we explore the neighbourhood. A lane that winds up the hill to the north-west will conduct us in about a mile to the THE HEATH CHAPEL. 126 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Heath Chapel. By the side of a small stream that rattles down a deep and tortuous channel, between the roots of large trees, the lane climbs steeply the greater part of the way, and towards the top turns to the right towards the Heath House, which for some time has been visible through the trees on the shoulder of the hill. A short distance past the entrance to Heath House (Henry Downes, Esq.) the Heath Chapel stands in a field to the left of the road. Here we have the rare opportunity of seeing an early Norman fabric, without the changes and incrustations which passing centuries have, very often to their improve- ment, added to nearly all our buildings of that period. It is almost the unique instance of a church of that date retaining its primitive condition untouched. Externally the walls are relieved by flat buttresses at each angle and in the middle of each wall-face. The windows are all small and plain, with the exception of a square hole cut in the north wall in the churchwarden era. The only door is a large and fine one, with nook-shafts and rich chevron mouldings, and has its original ironwork and primitive lock. It admits into the south side of the nave, which is filled with fine Jacobean pews, most of them carved. The pulpit and reading-desk are of the same, and carved to match, but the seats at the extreme west, and those at south side of the chancel, have much earlier decoration, and seem from the size and character of the timbers to have been portions of a fifteenth century rood-loft. The chancel is cinonn mmo INTERIOR OF THE HEATH CHAPEL. CORFHAM CASTLE. 127 separated by a large and elegant arch of several orders, but of the severest simplicity, and the string-course which we noticed without is repeated round the wall-surface. The font is of the same early character as the building, and has some indications or arcading. Communion table and rails, pews, reading-desk, and pulpit are alike guiltless of varnish or French polish, and on all there rests the profound repose of an undisturbed antiquity. In the plain white- washed walls of this homely hillside sanctuary there is a solemnity and impressiveness often wanting in more pre- tentious structures of recent times. Its hoary stones are eloquent to-day of the time when this outlying barbican of the Clee was a heath in fact as well as in name, when the black-cock and the grouse roamed on the slopes, and there was heather instead of corn on the uplands. The engraving, which was made for a work by the late Mr. Wright, gives but a faint idea of the interior. Service is held here once a month. Returning down the hill, we notice a new church of corrugated iron in the village of Bouldon, and cannot refrain from the reflection that it will scarcely look so well as the one we have left does after seven hundred odd years have passed. Duly fortified by rest and refreshment, we make a start for the return journey, down the eastern side of Corve Dale. Peaton Strand is a small hamlet of old houses half a mile on the road, and another cluster the same distance beyond is Peaton. Here also is the once celebrated Corfham Castle, now distinguishable only by its earthworks, which, however, are extensive and well marked. It stood on the high ground on the east bank of the Corve, and was the centre of the great manor of Corfham, which Henry II. gave to Walter de Clifford " for love of Rosamond, his daughter." A free chapel within the castle of Corfham existed as late as 1635, but was then in decay. At Bron- croft, two miles north of here, there is another castle, prettily situated in a park. In 1645 it is spoken of as having been demolished by the Royalists, but it is now rebuilt and converted into a residence for the owner, Miss Johnstone. Still following the road, a long interval ensues without sign of dwellings, except on the distant slopes of Wenlock Edge, where an occasional village or country seat is visible : and the hamlets of Great arid Little Sutton,with Sutton Hill rising at the back, where Mr. Wright unearthed 128 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. on the summit some interesting evidences of an Anglo- Saxon burial-ground. Then Lower Hayton is passed, the only visible portion of a large and straggling community of cottagers, called Hayton's Bent, which dots the hillside for a long distance. Still farther, nearly opposite Stanton Lacy, is Hope Gutter, one of those beautiful little valleys so numerous in these parts, containing many picturesque cottages. The road is then without great interest, except in point of distant scenery, which improves as Ludlow is approached and becomes a part of it. .' SAXON DOORWAY AT STANTON LACY. CHAPTER XV. DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. Corve Bridge Site of Norman Chapel Tumuli on Oldfield Stanton Lacy Saxon Work Churchyard Tombs Vil- lage Manor-house The Lacys Culmington Elsich Delbury Holgate, &c. Munslow Upper Millichope . " PASSINGE out of Ludlowe by Corve-gato," says Leland, " I came straight to Corve Bridge, of five fayre arches of stone." If we follow in his footsteps to-day we shall find the bridge was rebuilt in the last century, and that its arches are now three, and anything but fair. Descending Corve Street, which takes its name from the little river flowing at the bottom, and crossing the bridge, which was partly built with stones from the old chapel of St. Leonard just above, we have two miles of wide and level highway before us, planted with oaks on either side a very pleasant run for the cyclist, but a trifle monotonous. More than half of it has been traversed when Rye Felton Farm is passed on the right, just across the railway. Near it the site of a Norman Chapel has lately been discovered, the traditional name of Chapel Field being thus explained. It seems to have been a plain rectangular chamber nearly thirty feet long, with a semicircular apse of another six feet. Numer- ous skeletons were unearthed, and some good tiles, but no gravestones or coffins. At the end of the second mile we turn off to the right, over the railway arch, and enter a large open space, called the " Old Field," and now used as a racecourse. Taking the easternmost of the diverging tracts, we notice, in crossing, four well-marked tumuli in a row close to the road. These have recently been examined (December, 1884) by Mr. C. Fortey. In the first, which is large and detached from the others, was found an urn of elegant shape, with traces of ornament and filled with burnt bones, the rim having an internal ledge for a lid ; below it a small cist was found of flat stones. In the next was a small quantity of bones and ashes, and in the end one a larger quantity and a bronze ornament. To the north- west is a larger mound, called " Robin Hood's Butt," the tradition being that that popular hero discharged his bow 130 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. from that spot at the tower of Ludlow Church, which is very visible in the distance, and that the arrow, falling short, stuck in the gable of the north transept, where it still remains.* This was also examined by Mr. Fortey, and at a depth of ten feet a heap of burnt bones and charcoal was found, a bed of clay followed, and, two feet below, a layer of ashes. Among the bones, those of a child of ten or twelve years were identified, and a bronze spear-head. STANTON LACY. Soon after reaching the edge of the " Old Field," the square grey tower of Stanton Lacy, though distant still, is conspicuous in front of dark trees, all the more so as the country hereabouts is flat and wanting in special land- marks. For the same reason Whitbatch and other rising grounds become important, and rival the distant Bringe- wood and Vinnall Hills. The road once regained, a short mile brings us to the lane, up which the church is seen with the Corve flowing past it. TOMBS OF THE LACVS, STANTON LACY. Of churches with Saxon architectural features this island can boast but few. They can almost be counted on the fingers, yet Stanton Lacy is one of them. The original building appears to have been cruciform in plan, as they * The real explanation of the arrow has already been given. (See foot-note on page 25). DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. 131 very often were, Saxon masonry being traceable in nave and south transept ; and the lines of narrow, projecting stones, characteristic of that style, are particularly noticeable in the west and north walls of the nave, and in the latter is a fine Saxon door with a curious cross over it. In the west end of the south wall of the aisle are two ob- tusely pointed recesses, and under them two ancient stone slabs, one incised with a geometrical cross and the other with a foliated one sculptured in relief, but much worn. There are two similar arches in the outer face of the chancel wall, but later and more elaborated, and under them two figures, apparently of the thirteenth century, but con- siderably abraded. These external monumental arches are often met with, more particularly in this district, but it is exceedingly rare to find the tombs still under them. Both of those in the chancel wall were in fair condition till about 1850, when an individual, who ought to have known better, sought to obtain a cheap immortality by having himself buried under one of them ; but on wrenching off the sculptured figure, and thereby breaking it through the middle, there was found, in a stone coffin, the skeleton of a man of great size. On this the idea was abandoned, and the damaged stone replaced. This is the more interesting from the existence of an old tradition that one of the Lacys was seven feet high. It is probably the tomb of the last Lacy, who died in 1241, and the earlier ones in the south aisle must certainly be memorials of his ancestors. The central tower is plain and square, with two two-light windows in each face. There are a number of good Early English lancets and Early Decorated windows in different parts of the church, which is not so very picturesque, in spite of its great antiquity, except on the north side. The village of Stanton Lacy requires some time and patience to explore, as its cottages are completely buried in orchards and other thick foliage. It was the seat for many genera- tions of the great family of De Lacy, the remains of whose manor-house form part of the residence of Mrs. Hodgson in the centre of the village. They are chiefly foundations, but immensely thick walls and great beams of oak attest the antiquity of a great part of the house. Concerning the foundation of the first church at Stanton, an old legend says that Milburga, the pious grand-daughter of Penda, King of Mercia, whose beauty attracted many 132 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. suitors, was staying at Stoke, when one of the latter, a. Welsh prince, determined to carry her off, which she hear- ing of fled towards Wenlock, and, being closely pursued by him, had crossed the Corve where the church now stands. Falling on her knees, she prayed that the river might become an impassable torrent ; and her prayer being heard and the pursuers baffled, she built there a church about 680 A.D. In Domesday Book Stanton is minutely described. Roger de Lacy then held it ; his father, Walter, was one of the heroes of the battle of Hastings. His brother Hugh succeeded to the estates on his banishment in 1095. He was succeeded by his nephew Gilbert, who died 1163. His- son Hugh (second) had from Henry II. a charter con- firming Stanton Lacy, Ludlow, and Ewias to him ; was- assassinated in Ireland, 1185. After being temporarily escheated, the estates were restored to Walter, his son, in 1189, who lost them in rebelling against King John, but recovered them on paying a fine. He died in 1241, leaving- two granddaughters, Matilda and Mary, who divided the estate. Matilda married Peter de Geneva, and, after,. Geoffrey de Genville, who both held Ludlow. CULMINGTON. Leaving by the lane through which we approached it r and turning north, past a queer old thatched house, and. through a tract of well-timbered valley silvery with willows, down which the Corve follows a tortuous channel, often near to the road, we pass on the left a fine old timber house,, called Langley, with a modern porch and a pool covered with water-lilies, and soon after a singular stumpy-looking object becomes discernible some distance ahead and slightly to the right. Drawing nearer, it is seen to be a church spire of stone, with two-thirds of its height missing, and finished instead with a small one of wood. Turning up a swampy lane and fording a large stream, the village of Culmington is entered. It presents nothing more attractive than the church, which stands on the right behind a red- brick farmhouse, which is older than it looks. The steeple, which forms such a strange object from a distance, is an elegant and beautiful example of the Early English broach spire ; indeed, the church is the best specimen of the First Pointed style in the district. The tower is plain and square. DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. 133 with small angle-buttresses, and the spire starts flush with it from a row of plain corbels. The latter has a gabled window in each face under a string-course, and the tower CULMINGTON CHURCH. has some small trefoiled openings, its weedy and untouched condition making it a very beautiful subject for pencil or camera. Entered through the tower, the church is a narrow oblong, undivided except by a fine Perpendicular carved screen. It can be seen by close scrutiny that the latter is now east- ward of its original place, as the acutely pointed windows and string-course of the Early English chancel are continued westward of it, and the old division is marked externally by a curious projection, with a small window and two interior 134 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. doorways, now blocked up, which was the staircase to the rood-loft. In one of the north windows of the chancel is a quaint Jacobean tomb, and opposite a very fine double piscina and square aumbry. Further west is a wall recess with rich mouldings and double row of ball-flowers. There is carving and the date 1641 on some of the pews. A small Early Norman door admitting to the vestry, in which is a good register chest, is the oldest feature. Passing through the village, we find it more interesting than it promised ; and, turning to the left, re-enter the main road. We now leave the Corve to the right, and follow the course of a smaller stream nearly due north. Wenlock Edge now comes into evidence, and the country generally is getting hilly and broken. Brown Clee not brown but purple appears over lower hills on the right, and Titterstone, looking like a volcanic peak, reappears above the nearer hills ; while to the left is Siefton Forest,, with a tall tower upon its summit known as Flounder's Folly. Culmington Manor (the residence of E. Wood, Esq.,) a large brick house in the modern Gothic style, stands on a high bank at some distance. In about a mile and a half, at a place called Pedlar's Rest, a lane on the right leads to Elsich, the original manor-house of Corfton, a village farther on. It is said to have been the home of John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, early in the fifteenth century, but most, at any rate, of the present house is Tudor. It is a very large and straggling place of limestone rubble, with fine brick chimneys, but, unfortunately, all the windows were restored in 1862. There is a remnant of the moat, and on the same side a curious staircase turret with an upper portion of timber and plaster. Inside is a staircase of solid oak steps, some good panelling, carved fireplace, and much fine old furniture. Corfton village is prettily situated in a small dell to the right of the main road. It possessed not a great while since as there are people living who were married in it an ancient chapel, which is now a roofless shell, with a few shapeless doors and windows, but nothing to which a date could be assigned. Near to the chapel yard, which is full of ricks, is the high mound,, the ditch, and entrenchments of some forgotten fort or castle. On the slope opposite Corfton is Corfton Hall, a modern building in the Gothic manner, lately the residence DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. 135 ELSICH MANOR HOUSE. of the late Hugh Lloyd Roberts, Esq. A little beyond, down a lane on the right, is the village of Diddlebury, or Delbury, of which a pretty ford and foot-bridge, an old farmhouse or two, a heavy Norman church tower peeping over trees, and the park gates of Delbury Hall are the chief features. The church quite bears out its first promise. It would be difficult to find anything more quaint than the tower, in which the windows, string-courses, and corbel- tables of a late Norman work are nearly hidden by a number of later staged buttresses added at various times, which, while giving support, add greatly to its picturesque effect. Its large semicircular west door has been built up, and a smaller inserted in the thirteenth century. The nave is divided from a south aisle by five pointed arches, from a north transept by one plain arch, and from the chancel not at all. There are numerous mural tablets in the chancel, and a good arch for the Easter Sepulchre. In the south 136 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. wall is a fine fourteenth century window, and in the south- west angle a small square opening with a sill, which looks like a low side window. Near it, a pointed priests' door and Norman window. In the north wall of the nave is a great deal of herring-bone masonry and a small Norman window. The main road has to be rejoined, and then one mile brings us to Munslow Aston, where there are an inn and a few old houses. There was a church here at the time of the Domesday survey. Aston Hall is a large stone house with good chimneys and other Jacobean features, but modern- ised. Munslow, another mile beyond, is a very pleasant and attractive village, which was sufficiently important in the reign of Henry I. to give its name to the division of the county, or Hundred, in which it stands. A large inn at the entrance is still called " The Hundred House," and for a moderate journey it will be convenient to rest there, and afterwards cross the Corve to Broncroft and Tugford, and return on the east side of the valley. But if time should allow, Shipton should be visited, though there is no longer an inn there, and it can be reached within two miles by rail from Longville station. At Shipton is a fine Elizabethan hall, for centuries the seat of the ancient Mytton family, and at Stanton Long and Holgate, on the way back, good churches. In the latter, a beautiful Norman font and very fine Norman south door. On the same high mound on which the church stands stood the castle of Holgate, or Helgot, built by Helgot de Stanton, and made use of by Henry I. in 1109. It was destroyed by the Royalists in 1645. MUNSLOW. In any case, Munslow Church is worth seeing, up a lane to the left, where it is very prettily situated on the slope of a small valley, looking across which its square fourteenth century tower, with small and simple belfry lights, pyramid roof, and no battlements, is seen among the rectory trees, with the ancient timber houses of the district dotted about. Seldom is a more rural and picturesque churchyard met with. The tombstones, many carved with quaint devices, are clothed in luxuriant creeping growths ; one of them has placed over it as a canopy the ancient timber lych-gate which has been removed from its original place by sawing through the pillars. The church itself is very interesting, DRIVE THROUGH CORVE DALE. 137 and, outwardly at least, extremely beautiful. Within, much has been renewed, but many features remain ; for example, a good incised slab (most unusual in this county), and the curious Decorated windows in the north aisle, con- taining a quantity of fine glass of slightly later date. On the south side are two fine Decorated windows, one of them of similar design to one at Richard's Castle, and a very fine timber porch of the same period, draped with honeysuckle, and opposite to it a quaint old sun-dial. At Upper Millichope, two miles due north from Munslow, is a curious twelfth century house, now used for farm purposes. Its main walls are immensely thick. The lower story is entered by a round-headed doorway, slightly ornamented, near which is a small window deeply splayed. There is a fireplace, and in one angle a stone staircase worked in the thickness of the wall, which was defended by three different doors. In the upper room are two curious windows of Early English character, with seats in the recesses. With the exception of the celebrated Jews' House at Lincoln, there is hardly another instance of a domestic building of such early character. After refreshment at the Hundred House, we can return down the other side the Dale by crossing at Beam Bridge towards Tugford, where there is a mill, and an interesting church with tower, nave, and chancel of the fourteenth century, and some good external mural arches for tombs. Beyond Tugford the route is given at page 127. OLD SUN-DIAL, MUNSLOW. CHAPTER XVI. DRIVE THROUGH ASHFORD, CAYNHAM, WHITTON, WHITTON COURT. Ashford House Caynham Court Camp Church Whitton Court Whitton Chapel Hope Bagot Bitterley Church Henley Hall. THIS drive can be shortened by starting through Lower Galdeford, past the Cattle Market, and following the direct road to Caynham ; but if time is not an object, some very good country is to be seen by following the Leominster road as far as Ashford Hall (page 90) ; and turning over the railway bridge. The river is then passed, and Ashford Carbonell village (page 90). At the top of the ascent is a fine view in several directions ; a large white house ahead is Ashford House (Miss Hall), where there is a fine avenue of elms and other large timber, and a herd of fallow deer. At the cross road an old-fashioned brick house, with very picturesque outbuildings, was an inn called the Serpent. From higher ground still further, Titterstone, always beautiful, is a great addition to the landscape, towering above the minor heights of Caynham Camp and Knowl Hill. In the hollow is a stream of some size flowing through fine trees, in crossing which an old mill can be seen, with Caynham Court in the background. Caynham Camp can be visited by leaving the carriage at a wicket on the left, just after passing the lodge gates of the Court (Sir William M. Curtis, Bart.,) and going up the field to a stile in an old orchard. By climbing straight up the hill, the first slight entrenchment is gained, then the fosse, and a steep vallum twenty feet high encircles a large space, with an entrance at the east, and now cultivated. The earthworks them- selves are densely covered with trees, but from the slopes below there is an unobstructed view of magnificent extent. This interesting British camp was several times fortified in the Middle Aees (Leland says, " Kainsham Castle, clene down, stood within two miles of Ludlow on a hill top ") and was used as late as the time of Cromwell, who had stores here during the siege of Ludlow. Returning down CAYNHAM CAMP AND CHURCH. 139 the hill, and passing the back of Caynham Court, the vicarage is passed on the left, and then the church. Though small, this church was a few years ago one of the best in the district, but had got out of repair. It is now rebuilt, with important additions in the Norman style. The old features TRIPLE ARCH, CAYNHAM CHURCH. which remain are a very curious triple Early English chancel arch, the lower part of tower, good door therein, and several lancets, all of that date, one or two Early Decorated windows, a small Norman window and south door. It is very much to be regretted that no photographs were taken of the old church. WHITTON. The road now begins to rise towards the Clee Hills, and the surrounding country is seen to great advantage. After passing a pretty house near the road (Whitton House), we turn to the right by a clump of Scotch firs, and along a lane which winds between high banks for nearly a mile, and again to the right, where there are two picturesque old houses at the corners, along the old wall of Whitton Park, over which the grand old gables and graceful chimneys of Whitton Court are very socn apparent, though its fine situation at the edge of a small ravine would hardly be 140 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. suspected. The house is built of small Elizabethan bricks with stone quoins, and encloses a small quadrangle, in which is a stone portion with two fourteenth century WHITTON COURT. windows and some elaborate timber and plaster work. The interior is exceedingly interesting, and contains many WHITTON CHAPEL. 141 old rooms in good preservation, and a great deal of fine tapestry. Within the late brick porch, a fine fourteenth century stone arch leads to a large hall of the same date, across one end of which is a carved and panelled timber screen of extraordinary massiveness, and a large fireplace between the windows above mentioned. On the walls are some very curious paintings. This beautiful old house, which was in the Charlton family for many generations, has been lately restored in the most conservative spirit, and retains, down to the smallest details, its ancient character. The dates 1611 and 1621 occur on the brick portions. It is now the residence of Miss Mills. About a quarter of a mile to the south of the park gate, Whitton Chapel stands alone among the fields. It has a square tower of great simplicity, without battlements and almost without windows, added about the fourteenth century, and the east window is similar in date. There is a south door with plain Norman arch and tympanum, round which is the nail-head mould- ing. Returning to the park, we follow the wall in an easter- ly direction to an old timber farmhouse called Rollings, and then to the left, till the little church of Hope Bagot appears at the head of a small valley between the buttresses of Titterstone. Passing the rustic old outbuildings of Hope Court (Captain Giles), a Georgian brick house, the church is reached by a footpath across an orchard. It is a small edifice, with considerable Norman character, viz., a very fine chancel arch, with nook shafts and elaborate sunk star ornament, south door with plain tympanum, a small window or two, and large cylindrical font. There is a good early timber porch ; two single-light windows in the chancel are thirteenth, the other fourteenth century. Very interesting piscina and sedilia in the window sill ; good Jacobean carved pulpit, and a curious fourteenth century window in south wall of nave. BITTERLEY. From here the Knowbury buttress of the Clee Hill can be crossed by going up the lane at the back of the church, and winding up the slope towards the new church, and across the network of fenceless roads and small tracks on the hill. After joining the Cleobury road, turn along a lane near the hamlet of Farden, and past a farm called I 4 2 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Hilluppencott, to Bitterley Court and church, standing near together on high ground, about a mile from the village ; the former a quaint house hiding all traces of antiquity under repeated coats of plaster. It has long been the residence of the Walcot family, and contains many literary treasures and interesting relics, including a pedigree of the Walcots from 1316 to 1643. The church is a Norman fabric, very much altered in modern times ; however, some CHURCHYARD CROSS, BITTERLEY. windows, a very fine font, and plain south door of that date remain. There is also an iron-bound chest of the fourteenth century, in which were found, some years ago, a pewter flagon, paten, and alms box. The pulpit is Jacobean, the lectern made from ancient woodwork, and the oldest BlTTERLEY CHURCH. 143 monuments seventeenth century, one to a Lucy of Charle- cote. Near a fine yew in the churchyard is an exquisite Decorated cross in such perfect condition as is very rarely met with. Bitterley village is reached in a mile ; it has many pretty houses, and a school founded by John New- borough, Head Master of Eton in 1712. A short distance this side Bitterley, a very queer old house, built of brick, stands in a field ; it is of Jacobean date, with an octagonal tower and stepped gables, and now occupied by cottagers. There is very good scenery, but little more of note to be seen from the narrow and tortuous lane, which brings us out into the main road, opposite the iron gates and fine elm avenue of Henley Hall. The latter is a large mansion of the Queen Anne period, but contains some panelling and fine ceilings of earlier date, and some old pictures. It is the residence of J. B. Wood, Esq. The route from here to Ludlow is described on page 121, and is not more than two miles in length. NORMAN FONT, BITTERLEY. CHAPTER XVII. RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. River Onny Onibury Craven Arms Newton Stokesay Castle Its History Stokesay Church. FOR Stokesay we take tickets for Craven Arms station, seven miles north, and leave the town at its northern ex- tremity. For two miles the railway runs so low as to leave very little of the country in view, and by the time any is visible, the Old Field has been reached, near the first station, Bromfield, where there is no sign of the village but the church tower and tall poplars near it, three parts of a mile to the west. The river Onny, sparkling over great beds of gravel, and swirling round deep pools and under tree-roots, is always on our left till we reach Onibury, where we cross it, and pass on along its other bank. Onibury is a small village of half a dozen farms, as many thatched cottages, and a small church. The latter has a plain square tower, which can be seen from the train, and a nave and chancel, chiefly fourteenth century, the best feature being a timber porch of the same date, which is not improved by a slate roof. A Saxon church was here at the time of the Domes- day Survey. CRAVEN ARMS. Just before the train slackens to run into Craven Arms station we catch a fleeting glimpse of the object of our journey, Stokesay Castle, and from a side which gives it to great advantage. Seen across a large, quiet pool, backed up with the steep grey sides of Norton Camp, and grouped with the grand elm-trees and rustic old church, it is a thing to be remembered. The busy junction at Craven Arms has made its mark on the surrounding locality, without adding to its beauty. The village being entirely of recent growth, and not at all interesting, we avoid it by turning at once through a wicket in the right-hand corner of the station yard, and follow a path at the back of the premises of the large Georgian hotel, from which it takes its name. RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. 145 This brings us to the main road, which runs parallel to the railway. Newton, a small village to the left, was a fine old place full of good houses till the modern Craven Arms encroached upon it. Nothing calls for special attention on the way, for although the hills are high and bold, and the castle occupies high ground in the centre of the valley, the road does not enable them to be seen to advantage, and is rather prosaic in itself. Not a mile from the station, it crosses an iron bridge over the Onny, and in the angle of the road is the parish school-house. Passing the latter, a lane STOKESAY CASTLE AND CHURCH. leads up the bank to a group of trees, where there is a stile into the churchyard. This side of the church is not striking, but on passing round its eastern end, he must be indeed a Goth who is not struck by the first view of the old manor- house. For from the deep moat which bounds the tangled grass and grey tombstones of the churchyard there springs a strange un-English looking pile of loopholed walls and high-pitched overhanging roofs and gables. The long central ridge, picturesquely broken by the tall window 146 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. gables of the great hall, leads the eye to the high battle- mented tower at the far end, and the quaint timber gate- house enriched with strange carved devices standing in the outer wall. STOKESAY CASTLE. A description of this place such as it deserves would require a volume to itself. The great and paramount in- terest of the building is the fact of its thirteenth' century STOKESAY CASTLE, FROM THE CHURCHYARD. character, and its perfect preservation, having neither fallen into ruin nor suffered alteration or renewal in modern RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. 147 times. We have no early manor-house existing to compare with it in completeness and continuity of style. The beautiful banqueting hall is itself without a parallel except among our baronial castles. Crossing the narrow gangway which replaces the old drawbridge, the courtyard is entered through the gatehouse before mentioned, on the arch of which, among other ornamentation, is a carving represent- ing the temptation of Adam. The main buildings extend along the far side of the court, and terminate in a large tower at the northern end, and a mass of projecting timber and plaster work at the other. The banqueting hall, which is in the centre, is entered by a large pointed door near its northern end, and is a room of noble and lofty pro- portions, lighted by three tall windows on either side, of the simplest form of tracery, viz., two pointed lights with a circular one above. There have been two shorter ones at the north end, but one over the entrance door has been built up. At the upper end of the room is a shoulder- headed door communicating with the private apartments, and in the centre of that part of the floor is the octagonal hearth on which the fire was made, the smoke escaping, in the absence of a louvre, as it could, through the chinks in the roof. The timbers of this roof, which are blackened with the smoke of six hundred years ago, rest on six long stone corbels, which are, like the rest of the hall, of later Early English design. At each end the timbers are carried across the end walls, whose surface they beautifully relieve, on two smaller stone brackets of exquisite form. At the north end a doorway leads down a short flight of steps to a lower chamber, in which is a well ; and over the doorway a staircase of primitive type is supported on timber framing and plain gallows-like brackets, the steps being blocks of solid oak. The first landing admits through a shoulder- headed door to some rooms overlooking the churchyard. In one of them, which has an ogee-headed window inserted, is a floor of very interesting tiles. The other windows are small lancets of early character, little more than loops. The upper part of the staircase has a landing which may have served as a minstrels' gallery, and gives access to a large and well-lighted room with an open timber roof and an Early English hood fireplace. This end of the building is rather puzzling, but it is probable that the lower part was originally carried up to form a tower-like 148 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. projection,, and that this upper story was rebuilt in timber and plaster work, and projected on brackets during altera- tions in the sixteenth century. At the other end of the Hall are some interesting rooms, with cellars or dungeons DOORWAY OF GREAT HALL, STOKESAY. under them. They are also accessible from the courtyard by a shoulder-headed door. Near it an external staircase leads to the dining-room through a similar door, and also RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. 149 across a bridge and through a larger pointed door to the tower. The dining room, unlike the rest of the building, has its primitive character veiled by seventeenth century panelling and other decoration of considerable richness, particularly the fireplace, which has the original stone arch surmounted by a gorgeous mass of carved wood, retaining many traces of gold and colouring. From this room, which has eight windows, open others towards the tower, which however, has no direct communication with other parts of the building, being practically detached, so as to form an isolated stronghold for emergency. It has a most singular design, resembling in plan a pair of irregular octagons, and has three stories, each designed to have separate entrances. The basement is entered from the south-east corner of the courtyard, under a pointed arch, and is a large chamber following the outline of the tower, and lighted by six lancet windows. It was formerly used as a blacksmith's shop when the castle was in use as out- buildings by a neighbouring farmer, and in consequence took fire, and was in danger of complete destruction ; as it was, the partitions in the different stories were burnt, so that their internal arrangement cannot now be seen. The second is a similar room to the basement, similarly lighted, and the upper one is now in most respects the same ; but it had a few years ago a feature of its own which made it quite different. The tower then had a high roof which was open below into this room, and starting from below the battlements, and partaking of their irregularity of plan, stood above them at its apex, and with its dark stone tiles showing between the battlements, and relieving them, alternately light and dark, added greatly to the beauty of the different views of the tower. This roof, which was in good repair, and was probably unique among the secular buildings of the three kingdoms, has a short time since (1880), for some inscrutable reason, been destroyed, and a flat one of lead substituted at great expense. The internal effect of the alteration is to give a flat and comparatively low ceiling to the room, in place of the old lofty one. This room, like the others, was intended to be entered by a large door from the courtyard, but it is now blocked up, and a late window inserted. This door and the one below must have been approached from a staircase which stood near the dining room as can be seen by the evidences on the 150 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. wall there by means of drawbridges ; so that the tower could be completely isolated at will. The three stages of the tower were also in communication by means of a narrow staircase in the thickness of the wall, which could readily be stopped up, and which now is the only means of access GREAT HALL, STOKESAY. to the upper room and the battlements. While the pyramidal roof remained, the embrasures were accessible from a narrow gangway round it. Between them the wall is pierced by very graceful loops or oilets for archers. A flight of steps leads to a turret with similar openings. In the courtyard is a deep well, which had some years ago a Gothic canopy of oak. Late in the sixteenth century RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. 151 the high crenellated wall defending the court on this side was taken down to its present level, and the timber gate- house, with its rich carving and chequered walls, erected in place of the stronger, but probably narrower gate tower. A portion of this original wall can still be seen against the tower, where it has been left to serve as a buttress, by which it will be seen that the courtyard has been a much stronger place than at present. The other staged but- tresses at the angles, and those between the windows of the hall, are additions made in the fifteenth century to support the walls. The window opening at the south end of the hall on the west side, reaches down to the floor level, and has instead of tracery two transoms and wooden folding doors, the lower of which are evidently ancient. As. the moat is close to the building along this side, there must have been another drawbridge here to make the door available. The upper part of the opening has been tam- pered with in modern times, but the lower looks like a fifteenth century alteration. At the Conquest, Stoke was held by Mildred of Edric Sylvaticus, but on Edric joining a Welsh rebellion, it was bestowed on Roger de Montgomery. At the death of Roger's successor, it again fell to the Crown, and was given to Walter de Lacy, who bestowed it on the family of Say of Richard's Castle. It is first called Stoke Say in a grant of the advowson to Haughmond Abbey, by Theodric de Say, in 1156. On the accession of Henry III., Stoke Say had reverted to the Lacys, who held it till 1240, when, as shown under Stanton Lacy, the estates were divided between two grand-daughters ; the youngest marrying John de Verdun, and receiving Stoke as part of her dowry. De Verdun died in 1274, and Stoke was then held by Regi- nald de Gray, who in 1281 sold it to John de Ludlowe. This family held it for many years, and in 1291 Laurence de Ludlowe had licence to build a wall of stone and lime at his mansion of Stoke Say, and crenellate or embattle it. This has been taken by several writers to refer to the forti- fying of the house, and therefore, in the absence of an embattled wall, to the building of the tower, and this has led to difficulties as to dates, because, apart from the early character of the building, there is mentioned in a roll of the household expenses of Richard de Swinfield, Bishop of Hereford, from 1289 to 1290, that he rested at Stokesay 152 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. for ten days, with a retinue of thirty-six horses, and men in proportion, showing that the place was then considerable, and probably its present size. This difficulty is obviated ENTRANCE GATE, STOKESAY. by the evidence I have pointed out of an embattled wall having existed round the courtyard, one side of a loophole and a garde-robe being still visible, which was doubtless the wall mentioned in the licence. I think there can be no RAILWAY EXCURSION TO STOKESAY. 153 doubt that the tower is earlier than 1291. The last of the Ludlow family held it in 1498, and it then passed by the marriage of his daughter to a Vernon of Haddon, who lived here when Leland visited this district. He says : " Aboot V. miles owt of Ludlo betwixt Ludlo and Bishop Castle ; Stoke Say belongeth sometime to the Ludlo's, now to the Vernons, builded like a castle." The Vernons lived here till 1607, when it was sold to Sir George and Sir Arthur Mainwaring. Thirteen years later it was sold to Elizabeth Craven and Sir William Craven, her son, in which family it remained till about twenty years since, when it passed to J. D. Allcroft, Esq., who resides at Stokesay Court. It was inhabited till 1706. STOKESAY CHURCH. Unlike other buildings of the kind, Stokesay Castle has no chapel, owing, no doubt, to the nearness of the parish church. The latter presents externally a Norman building, re-edified in the churchwarden era, but within has some very interesting points. The south door, is plain and un- touched Norman. The nave is filled with high oak pews, many having carvings and quaint hinges, and in the chancel is a fine Jacobean canopied pew with arched openings. There are a few mural monuments of some age, the best being in the outside of the chancel wall, having coats of arms and an inscription to Alice Baugh, who died 1662. There is a very good Early English tower-arch, but almost hidden by an old gallery, and there is a good carved chair in the chancel. CHAPTER XVIII. RAILWAY EXCURSION TO TENBURY, AND WALKS TO BURFORD, ETC. Woofferton Easton Court Little Hereford Nunupton Up- ton Court Middleton-on-the-Hill Brimfield Tenbury Church Tombs St. Michael's Burford Tombs Knigh- ton-on-Teme. A DAY may be well spent in a railway excursion to Tenbury and its neighbourhood. The line follows the course of the Teme southwards, about five miles, to Woofferton (where we leave the Shrewsbury and Hereford line for the Tenbury), and then turns with it towards the east. The scenery is very varied, and soon reminds us that we are in Worcester- shire, most of the valley being given up to cherry orchards and hop yards. The trench on the left, which might be taken for an early entrenchment, is only the bed of a disused canal. Close to Easton Court station, which takes its name from a fine modern mansion on the high ground to the left, the residence of Mrs. Tarratt, is Little Hereford Church, but it is not seen to advantage from the line, being really a most interesting edifice, and, but for a slate roof, quite picturesque. The tower and nave are Early English of an early type, the former having a fine west door, long loop-like lancets, and double lancet belfry windows. It seems, by the remains of corbels, to have had a parapet, but has now a pyramidal roof. There is a Norman window and a Norman font in the nave, which is entered by a fine Early English south door, and there is a beautiful tower- arch of the same date. The nave is divided from the chancel by a thick wall, in which is a very low chancel-arch, and above it a large built-up window recess, the sill of which has a projecting slab with a piscina at its south end. A little more to the south is a narrow doorway, giving access by a staircase in the thickness of the wall, entered by a door under the chancel arch, to the rood-loft. These are very interesting evidences of an altar in the rood-loft, when a rood-loft existed. They also show that the former chancel was much smaller and lower than the present one, NUNUPTON AND MlDDLETON-ON-THE-HlLL. 155 which replaced it early in the fourteenth century. On the north side of the chancel are two richly canopied recesses for tombs, close together, and there is another of similar date on the south side of the nave. All of them are richly carved and moulded, and have pinnacles flat at the top for figures. Under those in the chancel are modern inscrip- tions, recording the burial of members of the Delamere family early in the sixteenth century, and under the easternmost a good incised figure of a lady, very unusual in this district. There are three fine sedilia on different levels, and a plain piscina. Two or three modern windows are very bad. WALKS FROM EASTON COURT. It should be noted in passing that from this station some very hilly and varied country is accessible. A walk may be taken to Nunupton Oak, one mile due north ; Middleton- on-the-Hill, three miles in the same direction, returning over Brimfield Hill, through Brimfield, to Woofferton station. There is a footpath from Easton Court station over a footbridge behind the church, and up the hill for about a mile, which makes a short cut for Nunupton Oak. A short distance on the left is a fine old house, the centre and porch half timber, and the two ends Jacobean brick with ornamental gables. It is now very picturesque, but extensive alteration is contemplated. The oak, having been accidentally burnt, is now fallen. When standing, its stem was seventy feet long, twenty-five feet in circum- ference across the middle of the first length, and fourteen feet across the butt. On the opposite side of the valley another fine old house is very conspicuous, Upton Court (H. Horton, Esq.) It is chiefly half-timber, with fine old chimneys, and within has a good deal of late panelling, some Dutch tiles and stained glass. Middleton-on-the-Hill is a small village with rather pretty surroundings, and a church, which, though small, is a good specimen of an unrestored and nearly complete Norman fabric. The original flat Norman buttresses remain, five on each side of the nave and six in the chancel walls. On the south side is a good Norman window, and the south door with solid tympanum, north door with chevron and pellet moulding ; the plain chancel arch, font, 156 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. and tower-arch are all Norman. The tower is the full width of the nave, very tall, and hung with thick masses of ivy, the lower story lighted by Early English loops. Both this tower and that of Little Hereford bear evidence of having been built with a view to defence. Moor Abbey, a mile further south, is a large seventeenth century farm- house, but with no monastic remains apparent. From Brimfield Hill, which is thinly wooded, are good views to- wards Ludlow, the Clee Hills being fine objects, and the Stretton Hills generally visible. Brimfield village is pretty, in spite of an air of commercial prosperity. The church is uninteresting, having been entirely rebuilt in the last century, with perhaps the exception of the lower part of the tower, which shows early masonry. In the Vicarage garden is a fine Early English font. In the two and a half miles from Easton Court to Tenbury is nothing very noteworthy besides the tower of Burford Church among the trees by the river. TENBURY. On leaving Tenbury station for the town, the old Rose and Crown Inn, combining with the peep of church tower and houses across the river, is the first picturesque object. At this end of an old bridge is a handsome hotel, the Swan ; at the other end the town begins. It is a small but lively place on the right bank of the Teme, and, as a town, has considerable antiquity, but the evidences of it have been mostly swept away by the activity of this and the preceding generation, so that an old street or two, the bridge, and portions of the church, are nearly all that remain. In spite of its new appearance, the church should not be neglected, as it contains several very interesting effigies. In the north wall of the chancel, under an exquisite four- teenth century canopy, lies the small, cross-legged figure of a knight in complete chain-mail. His head rests on a lozenge-shaped cushion, and has the hood of mail drawn over it. He wears a hauberk of mail, over which is a long stircoat fastened by a narrow strap at the waist, and nearly reaching the feet, which rest on a talbot. The sword is suspended by a broad belt, and the shield is absent. The hands are placed together on the breast, holding a heart between them, and their covering of mail hangs down from TENBURY CHURCH. 157 the wrists. This beautiful monument is, except the face of the figure, in perfect preservation. It is about the oldest monumental effigy in the district, and perhaps the only HEART SHRINE, TENBURY. sculptured effigy in the kingdom which shows the mufflers or gloves of mail hanging loose from the wrists, not, as generally represented, on the folded hands. Probably it 158 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. does not mark the burial-place of the person commemora- ted, but was erected to contain the heart of some knight who fell in the Crusades. It has been referred to by Nash and other writers as a child in armour, but that is mani- festly erroneous. In the south wall of the south aisle is a gigantic effigy of a knight somewhat similarly armed to the foregoing, but as he lies in a recess in the wall, which has at some late period been plastered up, only half the figure is visible, and it cannot be properly studied. There is a large pointed shield on the left arm, bearing the arms of the Sturmey family : gules, a chevron between three mullets pierced, argent. The legs are crossed, the surcoat is shorter than in the smaller figure, and the mail has either never been indicated or has worn off in the course of centuries. The Sturmeys lived at Sutton Sturmey, near here, and were a great family in these parts. At the east end of the south aisle is a very elaborate tomb, richly carved in alabaster, and in perfect condition, on the top of which is a knight in Elizabethan plate-armour, and his wife in the costume of the same period. Round the sides are the coats of the family and their alliances, and on the tilting-helm of the knight, on which his head rests, is the family crest : an arm in armour, with the hand bare holding a sword, which pierces a boar's head couped. On the wall is this inscription : " Here lieth Thomas Acton, of Sutton, Esquire, who at the age of seventy years depted. this life Jan. 2, 1546 : and Mary, his wife, daughter to Sir Thomas Laycon, of Willey, Knight, being of the age of 58 years, deceased April 28. 1564, having issue in their life- tyme two sons, Launcelot and Gabriel, who died before them in their infancy, and Joyce, theire only daughter and heire, being then of the age of twelve years, was espoused to Sir Thomas Lucy, of Charlcot, Knight, which dame Joyce in dutiful remembrance of these her loving parents hath erected this monument, 1581. T.A. M.A." The Sir Thomas Lucy here mentioned was the Squire of Charlcote whose enmity Shakespeare is supposed to have incurred, and whom he afterwards satirised as Justice Shallow. In 1645 a major in the army of Charles I. made notes of the church in passing with the king's troops through Tenbury, and from these it is certain that there was a great deal of fine glass in the windows. It may have suffered at TENBURY AND BURFORD. 159 the close of the war from the Puritan fanaticism, and in 1770 a great flood threw down the nave and south aisle, and much damaged the windows, organ, and monuments. Even after this, when Dr. Nash made his collections, there were, besides those mentioned above, other monuments and stained glass. On the north side of the chancel, entered by a Decorated door, is an ancient vestry, over which has been a room with a window opening into the chancel, probably an anker-hold or domus inclusi. The tower at the west end is Norman, except the battlements. The west door was renewed in the restoration ; over it is a small Norman window. The belfry windows have two openings, divided by a baluster, and recessed under a round enclosing arch. In recent years a mineral spring has been developed at Tenbury, and a handsome pump-room, &c., built over it, the water being found to have valuable medicinal properties. At the Old Wood, about two miles from Tenbury, is the celebrated St. Michael's College, founded and built by the Rev. Sir F. A. Gore Ouseley, Bart. BURFORD. The bridge over Teme has been altered and added to at various times, but the main arches are original, and of early mediaeval work. At the end of the bridge opposite to the town is a large tumulus, with three very fine oaks growing upon it. It was the custom in early times to place such tumuli at fords to mark their position. A footpath leading from the bridge past this mound is the nearest and pleasant- est way to Burford village, which is reached in about a mile through riverside fields and hop-yards. The church, a continuous oblong without aisles or chancel arch, is inter- esting in itself, retaining many of its ancient features, among them curious Early English sedilia and piscina and a fine Perpendicular font ; but its chief attraction is a most interesting series of tombs, chiefly to the Cornwall family, who held this manor from a remote period. The earliest is a brass on the north side of the altar, with the figure of a lady boldly incised upon it. The date is covered by a modern reredos, but from the costume it certainly belongs to the latter half of the fourteenth century. The figure is attired in the veil head-dress and a tight-fitting i6o LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. kirtle, over which is a long mantle, fastened by a cord. The head rests on a cushion enriched with conventional foliage in a beautiful pattern. Only part of the Norman- French inscription is visible : " >J< Icy gist dame Elisa- beth, feme a mon Elmon de Cornewaylle, q" mort. ..." " Here lies Lady Elisabeth, wife to Sir Elmon de Corne- waylle, who died ..." Under a fine sepulchral arch, en- riched with crockets and ball-flower mouldings, in the north wall of the chancel, is an alabaster effigy of a lady. She is attired in a low-necked kirtle and mantle, her hair long and confined by a fillet, her head resting on two cushions supported by angels, and her feet on a dog. The colouring of the figure, with the following inscription, have been TOMB OF PRINCESS ELIZABETH, BURFORD. restored : " Here lyeth the body of the Most Noble Eliza- beth, daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, own sister to King Henry IV., wife to John Holland, Earl of Huntingdon and Duke of Exeter, after was married to Sir John Cornwaylle, Knight of the Garter, and Lord Stanhope. She died the fourth year of Henry VI., 1426." In the centre of the chancel is a wooden effigy of a knight in plate- armour, his feet on a heraldic monster, and round the base TOMBS AT BURFORD. 161 the following : " Edmundus Cornewaylle, Thomae Corne- waylle de Burforde, equitis aurati filius et haeres, obiit die Januarii, anno domini Millesimo Quingentesimo Octavo, aetatis suae Vicesimo. <%4 Requiescat in Pace." * In the recess of the south-east window of the chancel is an altar-tomb, whose upper surface is a thick sheet of lead, on which is incised the figure of a lady under a curious Gothic canopy. She wears the pedimental head-dress and a flowing robe with ornamental girdle. A group of children is squeezed into the bottom corner. This tomb has evident- ly been executed by a maker of incised slabs, the whole treatment being different from that of a brass. It is al- together a most interesting example, and probably unique. Round the margin is the inscription : " Here lythe Elys- bethe debroke, dawtur unto Sr Walter debroke off Webbe- lay, Knygth of the moste noble ordre, and lorde fferres of Chartelay whyche Elsbethe was wyffe unto Sr Richard Corbet of Morton, Knight, and after was married unto Sr Thomas leyghton, Knigth, of Stretton In le dale whyche Elysbeth depted. out of this transitory worlde In the yere of owre lorde god a dmccccclvi., whose soule jsu have." On the north side is a large monument in the most un- usual form of a triptych. The doors and framework externally are freely painted with representations of the Apostles. Internally the principal group is painted upon boards, and consists of three figures, life-size, in Elizabethan costume, Edmund Cornewaylle and his father and mother. There is a representation of a corpse below, many coats of arms, and a long inscription. Tradition tells wonderful stories of the size and strength of this Edmund ; he is depicted 7 feet 3 inches high. The painting of this tomb was the work of Melchior Salaboss, also known as Gerardino Milanese. It is in perfect preservation, and of very great interest, as there are but two others in the kingdom. Round the walls are numerous interesting monuments, Elizabethan and later, several containing well-preserved effigies and curious epitaphs, entering, as was the fashion of the times, into the chief incidents of the lives of the de- ceased. One records the burial of a lady who " lived to see seventeen score and more children raised from her body." Under a pointed arch, with good mouldings, in the * " Equitis aurati " indicated a rank of knighthood. Knights were so called whose spurs were golden or gilt. K l62 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. south wall, are two circular cavities with loose lids. This is one of the few remaining instances of the mediaeval custom of enshrining the heart of a great personage, who happened to die abroad, in the wall of a church. This shrine con- tained the heart of Sir Edmund Cornwaylle, Knight, who died at Cologne in the fourteenth of Henry VI. The old -covers have been replaced with modern ones. KNIGHTON-ON-TEME. Five miles north-east of Tenbury, in a picturesque and hilly neighbourhood, is the small chapel of Knighton-on- Teme, a very quaint building, containing many points of interest. The tower is an oblong continuation the full width of the church, divided from it by timber framing, .and carrying a wooden upper part and the bell-cages on a framework of thick beams. There are several Norman features, as chancel arch with blind arcade, tall and narrow south door with rich arcading above, and the fabric of nearly all the walls. In the tower are two elegant Early English lancets and one in the north wall, also a good Decorated window in the south of nave with the Sturmey arms over. PERPENDICULAR FONT, BURFORD. CHAPTER XIX. GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. FOR the study of the Silurian formations Ludlow presents great facilities, with the additional advantage of being close to the Old Red Sandstone and the very interesting Carboniferous limestone and coal-measures of the Clee Hills, which are surmounted by the basaltic rock so extensively quarried under the name of Dhu stone. We shall best obtain a comprehensive idea of the main geological outlines of the vicinity by ascending to some high central point, for which purpose the tower of the parish church offers the greatest advantages. From it, we look to the north into that remarkable district in which the immense series of rocks known as Lower Silurian which extends more or less interruptedly from the greater eleva- tions of North Wales is broken into by the protrusion of the hill we can see as a blue streak on the horizon, the Longmynd, in which the Cambrian rocks rise from beneath them. Beyond the great fault which runs down the Church Stretton valley, the Lower Silurian (Ordovician) rise again in the hummocky mass of Caer Caradoc, visible a little more to the east, and then dip again to the south-east, and disappear under nearer hills of higher formations, Wenlock Edge and Callow Hill. These are Upper Silurian, consist- ing of distinct groups of sandstones and shales, with bands of concretionary limestone ; they also form the heights still nearer, Norton Camp and View (Weo) Edge, and round to the north-west, Mocktree Hill and the hills round Leint- wardine and Downton, the dark line of Bringewood Chase, and, nearer still, ^the steep sides of Whitcliff, and the pre- cipitous ground over which we stand, are all composed of Upper Silurian rocks. Southwards the hills round Aymes- trey, the long ridge of the Vinnall range, the isolated group of Caynham Camp and Tinker's Hill, and the three rounded peaks of the Abberley Hills, which appear beyond the latter in the extreme distance, are all of this formation. To the east and north-east the prospect, geologically con- sidered, presents very different features. From about the 164 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. middle of the town below us, across the flat plain, and over the rising grounds of Whitbatch as far as the slopes of Wenlock Edge, and reaching far up into Corve Dale, east- wards to the Clee range, and spreading southwards into the great plain of Herefordshire, stretches a vast extent of Old Red Sandstone. It overlies, south of Ludlow, the Upper Silurian sandstone at Tinker's Hill, and on the east the Carboniferous Limestone rests upon its upper beds. Above it, in the slopes of the Titterstone Clee, rise in successive stages the Millstone Grit, the Coal Measures, and finally the basalt, which is spread over the summit. CAMBRIAN. Recent investigations have shown the existence in the Church Stretton district of a mass of rocks called Archaic, which are believed to be of much earlier date than any yet studied, though their exact history does not seem to be very clearly ascertained. They are exposed at Cardington, Hops Bowdler, and elsewhere, but the earliest rocks which lie within a convenient distance of Ludlow are the Cambrian, and the nearest places at which they can be studied are round the southern end of the Longmynd accessible from Craven Arms station in which locality the Upper Llandovery conglomerate rests unconformably on its lower slopes, and may be traced from the eastern side at Little Stretton to Mindtown on the west. The presence of this unconformity at its base, with other indications, has led to the conclusion that the Longmynd ridge was a high and steep island, rising from a former Silurian sea. The worm-tracks, Arenicola didyma, are found at Little Stretton, but no other organic remains. LOWER SILURIAN (Ordovician). The Lower Silurian may be seen near to Broome and Aston station, the first from Craven Arms on the Central Wales line, where there is a section of Hoar Edge Grits. They also occur at Carwood and Broken Stones, a mile or two further north. Hordesley Sandstones are exposed in the cuttings near Marsh Brook station, at Long Lane, two miles west of Craven Arms, and, one mile further north, the Cheney Longville Flags may be observed on the west of the village of that name. Also the Onny Shales in the river-bed at the same place, where many fine fossils have been obtained, including Sphocrospongia hospitalis. Some of the characteristic fossils to be found in the above neighbourhoods are : Near Marsh Brook, Glyptocrinus, Tentaclites Anglicus, Phacops conophthalmus, GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 165 Asaphus Powysii, Calymene Caractaci, Lichas laxatus, Strophomena grandis, S. alternata, S. expansa, Orthis Actoni(B, 0. Flabellulum, 0. vespertilis, Modiolopsis orbicu- laris, Bellerophon bilobatus, B. sulcatinus, &c. At Longville, Ampyi pennatus, Homolonotus bisculatus, Lingula termi- granulata, Discina punctata, Orthis alternata, 0. unguis, O. spiriferoides, Trinucleus concentricus, Remopleurides sp. Fragments of Iloenus Davisii, Cyclocystoides Caractaci, &c. LLANDOVERY. At the latter place, in the famous Onny section, the Llandovery can be traced between the Wenlock and upper beds of the Caradoc strata. The conglomerate can be seen, as mentioned above, at many points between Little Stretton and Mindtown, and its relation noted to the Cambrian, against which it lies unconformably. At Long- ville Iloenus Barriensis, I. Thomsoni, &c., are procurable in the section exposed in the bed of the Onny. The UPPER SILURIAN (Ordovician) is finely displayed in the parallel ridges north of Corve Dale, where the Wenlock shale, forming the greater part of Wenlock Edge, is crowned on the crest by the harder Wenlock limestone. The wearing down of the Lower Ludlow shale has formed the valley between it and the parallel, but less continuous, ridge, which is capped with Aymestrey limestone, the Upper Ludlow shale succeeding it on the slope towards Corve Dale. Similar features are traceable to the west and south- west of Ludlow, where in the escarpments of the Vinnall range the Wenlock limestone can be seen in quarries on the eastern side, with the lower Ludlow overlying. On the western side the Lower Ludlow shales, and farther west, at Burrington, the Wenlock shales have been denuded, iorming the valley of Wigmore Lake ; the hill above on the north-west, Bringewood, being crowned with Aymestrey limestone. The Upper Ludlow is well exposed near the town itself. In the rocks under the Castle it is very access- ible, and Homolonotus Knightii has been found. Near the Ludford end of Whitcliff is a large quarry abounding in fossil shells, and in the lane above, a long reach of the celebrated Fish Bone Bed is visible, from which many fragments of fossil fish have been unearthed. This bed occurs at Downton Castle, and there is a very fine exposure of it near Norton Camp, the hill above Stokesay Castle ; above the bed is a layer of shale abounding in Platyschisma and Modiolopsis Loevis. Nearly opposite Dinham Bridge 166 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. the Aymestrey limestone is visible, and there Cerotiocaris Encrinurus punctatus, Lichas Bucklandii, and Proetus Stokesii have been obtained ; and at the northern end of Whitcliff is a fine Upper Ludlow quarry, containing many interesting fossils. Along the Wigmore road are a number of small quarries of Aymestrey and Lower Ludlow, which latter is largely exposed in the Sunny Gutter below Mary Knowl, and in the roads about Burrington the Wenlock shale is easily accessible, also in the river-bed above there, where Phacops longicaudatus is numerous. Within the Burrington end of the Downton gorge are high cliffs of Aymestrey, and in one place a series from Downton sand- stone to Lower Ludlow. Lower down, near the Castle Bridge, the Ludlow Bone Bed is accessible in the river bank. The Tin Mill Race and the banks near Forge Bridge, still lower, should also be visited for fine sections of Downton sandstone. In the roads to the west of Ludlow masses of Pentamerus Knightii are common in the piles of road-metal. These come from the quarries at Leintwardine, where at Mocktree Hill is a grand section of Lower Ludlow and Aymestrey r with vast quantities of this fossil in very perfect condition r besides specimens of the Star Fish, Protaster Leptosoma and vermiformis, Ceratiocaris, Crinoids, Pterygotus, &c. There are also Phragmoceras ventricosum, arcnatum, and com- pressum, Favorites alveolaris, Litnites giganteus, Orthoceras saturni, ibex, and Mocktreense, Cyrtoceras extricatitm, Lingula lata, Phacops caudatus, Cardiola striata, besides many others of commoner occurrence. In quarries on Church Hill, close to the village, the Lower Ludlow is very prolific in fossils of many different kinds Star Fish, En- crinites, Trilobites, of which the following are a few : Protaster Miltoni, Leptosoma, and vermiformis, Mono- graptus chimoera, Leintwardinensis clavicula, and Nilssoni, Scaphaspis Ludensis, Paloeocoma Marstoni and Colvini, Sphoeraster pomum, Pteraspis Ludensis, Limuloides optatus, Pterygotus punctatus, Phacops Stokesii, Calymene tubercu- losa, &c., &c. Several of the quarries are now filled up, and the rock is no longer accessible, but one remains near Trippleton Farm, and is still productive. OLD RED SANDSTONE. The Transition beds between the Silurian and Old Red Sandstone can be studied in several places near the town. They are well exposed at GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 167 the south end of the railway tunnel at a quarry between Onibury and Norton, where Pterygotus and Eurypterus are iound in the yellow Downton sandstone ; also the mica- ceous shales near the Tin Mills at Downton. These Tin Mill shales occur on the right bank of the river, about half a mile below the town, where Cephalaspis Murchisonii, Lingula cornea, &c., also ; at a footbridge over the Led- wyche under Caynham Camp, where Berychia, Leperditia marginata, &c., are obtainable. At a quarry at Whitbatch, within two miles of Ludlow, the Old Red Sandstone and the calcareous rock called corn- stone which occurs in it, and in which its organic remains are chiefly found, are both well exposed. In a quarry higher up on the right fragments of fossil fish, Cephalaspis Lyelli, were found by Mr. Alfred Marston ; and in several places further up Corve Dale, notably at Hayton's Bent and Bouldon, the same collector found other species of Cephalaspis and Pteraspis, especially at the latter place. At Hill Halton, to the west of the town, near Oakly Park, Mr. Alfred Marston has also found organic remains in the marly beds which underlie the cornstones. CARBONIFEROUS LIMESTONE. The carboniferous lime- stone is developed on the north and south of the Titterstone Clee mountain, which appears to owe its elevation both to volcanic upheaval, to which the basalt on its summit seems to testify, and to denudation, which has carried away the -softer surrounding portions, and left the mountain limestone and Millstone Grit high above the neighbouring Old Red. On the side towards Cleobury Mortimer is the most instruc- tive series, where one ascends from the yellow upper beds of the Old Red Sandstone to the carboniferous shales and limestones, and afterwards Millstone Grit ; then the Coal Measures, and finally the basalt on the summit. On the shoulder of the hill are many disused coalpits, in the shale from which fossil ferns are found, and on the sides of the Batch Valley are many exposures of the Coal Measures. The carboniferous limestone is quarried on a large scale for lime-burning at the Knowl Hill buttress of Titterstone, and there are large excavations in the basalt on the upper part -called Hoar Edge, where the quarries show a wall of rock 145 feet high ; but the columnar shape of the latter rock is best seen in the untouched part, near the highest peak, of which the Giant's Chair is a part. i68 LUDLOW TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. The above account is, from the nature of the work, a very condensed one, and those who wish to follow up the subject will do well to obtain the Handbook to Shropshire Geology by the Rev. J. D. La Touche (Adnitt and Naunton, Shrewsbury), which deals with it in a masterly and ex- haustive manner. PENTAMERUS KNIGHTII. Woolley's Ludlow Publications. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 5/- net. Ludlow Town and Neighbourhood. By Mr. Oliver Baker, Fellow of the Royal Society of Painter- Etchers (London) ; Member of the Royal Society of Artists (Birmingham). With about 70 Illustrations in fac-simile, produced by the Typographic Etching Company, of London, from Original Sketches by the Author. New Edition (the Twelfth) with Eleven additional beautiful Illustrations and Plan of the Castle. Price 6d. post-free Sd. ; Cloth i/ post-free 1/2. Woolley's Guide to Ludlow Castle and Church. Giving a Historical and Descriptive Sketch of the Castle and Church of St. Lawrence, Ludlow. By Thomas Wright, Esq., M.A., F.S.A. To which is added An Account of the Ancient Monuments in the Church, and A Walk Through the Town. By Oliver Baker, Esq. Crown Bvo. 26 pp. Price $d. Guide to Stokesay Castle. A Historical Sketch. By the late Thomas Wright, M.A., F.S.A. SPECIAL OFFER ? Demy Svo. Cloth. 541 pp. Reduced to 6/- post-free, or in the folded sheets (unbound) S/-. Originally published at i6/-. Wright's History of Ludlow & the Welsh Border. Forming a popular Sketch of the History of Ludlow and the Welsh Border. By the late Thomas Wright, Esq., M.A., F.S.A., Hon. M.R.S.L. G.W. having purchased tne whole of the remaining copies of the original work, published In 1852, now offers them at the low price of 6'-, to give everyone who feels any interest in the History of Ludlow, the Lord Marchers and the Welsh Border, an opportunity of obtaining a copy of this very valuable work. Just published. Demy Bvo. 32 pp. Price (/- ; per Post, 1/2. The Glass in the Parish Church of Ludlow, with important Illustrations from original MS. By Henry T. Weyman, F.S.A. Quarto. Gilt Edges. Price 7/6. The Parish Church of St. Lawrence, Ludlow. A Monograph of the Tower Restoration, 1889 90 91. With Eleven Full-page Illustrations. A most important Work on the Restoration of our Parish Church. A few copies left. GEORGE WOOLLEY, Publisher, LUDLOW. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-40w-7,'56(C790s4)444 THK L1BKART A 000 998 930 !- I 1 S^J u a M V 9- PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK CARD 1 ^u University Research Library c? en