\ 
 
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 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR.
 
 
 B.t ^at:-{
 
 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR: 
 
 JOURNALS 
 
 AN EIGHT YEARS' RESIDEXCE IN THE DIOCESE 
 
 OF MAURITIUS, 
 
 AND OF A VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 
 
 VINCENT W. RYAN, D.D. 
 
 BISHOP OF MAURITIUS. 
 
 SEELEY, JACKSON, AND HALLDAY, FLEET STREET. 
 LONDOX. MDCCCLXIY.
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Many persons having expressed a desire to obtain in- 
 formation concerning the Diocese of Mauritius_, I have 
 thought it advisable to give a short account of the various 
 islands comprised in it ; of the distinct elements of the 
 population ; and of the progress of the operations of the 
 Church of England amongst them. Such an account 
 leads naturally to a description of the natives of Ma- 
 dagascar, of whom so many are found in Mauritius ; and 
 of the openings which have been presented for Christian 
 efforts since the death of Queen Ranavalona, and the 
 means employed to take advantage of them. As such 
 an account has been called for, and is likely to be chiefly 
 read, by those who are interested in Missionary work, the 
 narrative of events, and the descriptions of persons and 
 places, will be given chiefly from journals and letters 
 written at the time. In this way it is hoped that an
 
 VI PREFACE. 
 
 accurate impression will be produced of the real state 
 of the case, and that it will be easy to mark the steps 
 of the progress wfeich, through God's blessing, has been 
 made, in supplying pastoral ministration to our own 
 people, — and in extending the Missionary operations of 
 our Church among the representatives of many nations of 
 Africa and Asia who are placed within our reach. 
 
 This is an appropriate occasion for me to return my 
 earnest thanks to those kind friends out of the Diocese 
 who have helped, by their sympathy, and prayers, and 
 contributions, the work, of which the laity and clergy 
 in the island itself could not adequately meet the re- 
 quirements. And I mention with lively gratitude the 
 help given by those Societies which confer so much 
 blessing on those who receive their aid in distant lands ; 
 and concerning which we cannot doubt that they bring 
 down on Britain the larger blessing, which belongs to 
 those who give.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEK I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Mauritius and the Seychelles — General Description— Lan- 
 guage, etc 1 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 First Four Years — Arrival — Residence — State of Ecclesi- 
 astical Affairs — Churclies — Mahebourg — Vacoas — Belle 
 Isle — Morne Brabant — Mariners' Chapel — Ordinations 
 — Visit to the Seychelles — IVFahe — Praslin — He Cu- 
 rieuse — lie aux Cerfs — Return to Port Louis — Indian 
 Christians' Association — Schools — Confirmation at Va- 
 coas — Sarradie — Prosper — Cassis — Hurricane — Pro- 
 cession of Fete Dieu .7
 
 Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Visitation Tour to the Seychelles, 1859 — Coetivy — Mahe — 
 Consecration of St. Paul's — Praslin — Four Services — 
 Peros Banhos — Chagos Islands — Salomon Islands — Six 
 Islands — Return to Port Louis 92 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to England — Return — The Seychelles — Port Louis — 
 Mauritius Church Association — Powder -MiUs Asylum 
 — Examination — Bishopstowe — Pamplemousses — Tour 
 to Mahebourg — Grand River S. E. — Villebague — News 
 from Madagascar — Confirmation at Vacoas — Creve Coeur 
 — Meeting for a New Church — Laying the Foundation 
 — Baptisms — Cholera — Visitation Tour — Mahebourg 
 — Liberal Aid of Miss Burdett Coutts . . . .146 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Madagascar : Events of the last Thirty Years — Malagasy 
 Documents: — 1. The Suppression of Prayer: 2. An- 
 other Account : 3. First Persecution ; Arrest of Rafara- 
 vavy : 4. Death of Rasalama : 5. Death of Rafaralahy 
 — Various Letters — Account of the Persecution of 1849 
 — Subsequent Letters 220
 
 CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Visit to ]\Iadagascar — Arrival at Tamatave — Journey 
 through the Forest — Reach Antananaravo — Interviews 
 with the King — Native Services — Visit to the Scenes 
 of Martyrdom — Leave-taking — Return to Tamatave — 
 Arrival at Mauritius 268 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Conclusion — Hurricane at Seychelles — Bourbon — Mahe — 
 Devastations of the Storm — PrasHn — Return to Port 
 Louis 324
 
 pst jof lllustcatbns. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL, PORT LOUIS {FrOtlHspiece) 
 
 MAP OF THE DIOCESE OF MAURITIUS .... Page 1 
 PORT LOUIS, WITH THE POUCE AND PIETER BOTTE MOUNTAINS . 10 
 CHURCHES AT MAHEBOURG AND PLAINES WILHEMS . . .71 
 CREVE CGEUR, AND THE PIETER BOTTE MOUNTAIN . . .193 
 TRAVELLING THROUGH A FOREST IN MADAGASCAR . . . 286 
 ANTANANARIVO 307
 
 MAP OK THi: DIOCESE OF MAURITIUS.
 
 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MAURITIUS AND THE SEYCHELLES. 
 
 The Island of Mauritius is situate in 20 degrees soutli 
 latitude and 57 degrees east longitude^ and possesses 
 many advantages from its geographical position and its 
 excellent harbour. When first discovered by the Portu- 
 guese in 1505 it had no indigenous race of men dwelling 
 in it, nor does it appear that any settlement was made by 
 that people of sufficient duration to lead to the importation 
 of slaves from Madagascar, or from the continent of Africa. 
 "\^liile the Dutch, who gave to the island the name of 
 Mauritius, held it, from 1644 to 1710, many of the natives 
 of Madagascar were brought over by them — large num- 
 bers of whom escaped from the plantations, which were 
 few in number, and gathered in bands in the forests and 
 mountains, from whence they earned on a system of 
 predatoiy incursions on the settlements and factories, 
 which so annoyed and impoverished the settlers that it 
 was one of the main causes which led to their abandon-
 
 2 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 ment of the island. The Frencli then took possession of 
 it, and gave to it the name of the Isle of France. Under 
 their rule the traffic in slaves went on vigorously, and 
 those who now occupy the place of the peasantry of the 
 country are either freed slaves or their descendants, of 
 African or Malegache extraction. 
 
 The scenery of the island is veiy fine and varied; 
 several distinct ranges of mountains, generally wooded to 
 the summit, with wide and well-cultivated plains between 
 them, extensive gorges and deep ravines, furnish a great 
 variety of beautiful landscapes ; while many of the bays and 
 inlets of the coast, fringed with palm-trees above the white 
 beach, and girt in to seaward with the line of reefs, on 
 which the waves dash with incessant surges, present com- 
 binations of beauty and grandeur which must be seen 
 to be duly appreciated. 
 
 The number of the ex-apprentice population, occupy- 
 ing, as we have said, the place of the peasantry, is about 
 40,000. They are generally employed on small holdings 
 of their own, like our English allotments ; or as domestic 
 servants. The labour on the sugar-cane plantations is 
 cari-ied on by coolies from India : of these, the remark^^jle 
 number of 228,780 were in the island in September, 1863. 
 They come from each of the three Presidencies of India, 
 and amongst them are found representatives of many of 
 the tribes of that country, from Peshawur to Cape Comorin. 
 Several thousand Chinese are living in Mauritius, chiefly 
 artisans, pork-butchers, and keepers of grocers^ shops. 
 
 In some parts of Port Louis the tradesmen are chiefly
 
 THE SEYCHELLES. 
 
 Mohammedans and Parsees from India. Arabs and Abys- 
 sinians are met with_, but not in large numbers. 
 
 The remaining part of the settled population^ — the 
 whole of whichj according to the last census^ amounted to 
 310_,000, — is made up of English and French residents, 
 who have come from Europe; of the descendants of the 
 French colonists of former days ; and of the coloured 
 inhabitants of mixed origin, among whom there are some 
 of all classes of society — some of them having obtained 
 high distinction in their competition with other students 
 for the prizes given by the learned professions in Europe. 
 
 Besides the above, there are generally two regiments 
 of the line stationed on the island, a company of sappers 
 and miners, and one or two batteries of artilleiy. 
 
 The number of seamen passing through the harbour 
 in the year 1855, for which I obtained the returns, was 
 15,764. 
 
 Nearly a thousand miles to the north of Mauritius 
 are the Seychelles Islands — about thirty in number — the 
 largest of which, Mahe, is eighteen miles long and about 
 five miles wide in its broadest part. Several others are 
 inhabited, and the population of the whole is about 8000. 
 From the position of these islands, lying near to the 
 equator, and out of the usual track of hurricanes, though 
 occasionally \dsited by them at long intervals, the vege- 
 tation is very luxuriant, and the timber finer than in 
 Mauritius. One tree, the coco-de-mer, is peculiar to this 
 archipelago, and flourishes chiefly on the island of Praslin,
 
 4 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 21 miles N.E. of Mfihe. It grows to the height of a 
 hundred feet, and the large branch-leaves at the summit 
 are more than twenty feet long. The nut is double, 
 sometimes triple, and I have seen some quadruple in 
 form. The explanation given of the name '' coco-de-mer" 
 is, that until the Seychelles were discovered the nuts were 
 only found on the shores of other lands, whence it was 
 inferred that they grew in the sea. The white gelatinous 
 substance inside the nut is rather insipid in taste, and the 
 chief use made of any part of the tree is that of a part of 
 the leaf, which is employed in the fabrication of elegant fans 
 and baskets, which command a high price, and are greatly 
 admired. The bulk of the population of these islands is 
 of the ex-apprentice class, and it will be seen in subse- 
 quent pages how much encouragement has been given to 
 the work carried on amongst them. A description of the 
 Isle of Lepers will be given in its place. 
 
 Another scene of operations is presented by the groups 
 of coral islands in the Chagos Archipelago. Situate 
 about a thousand miles east of the Seychelles, and entirely 
 different from those islands with their granite peaks, and 
 from Mauritius with its basaltic mountains, these emerald 
 gems of the sea present from a distance the appearance 
 of trees growing out of the water; and on drawing nearer 
 are found impracticable for landing on the seaward side, 
 because of the extensive reefs by which they are fenced off 
 from approach. They have been formed by the coral 
 insect. 
 
 It will be seen from the account of my visit to
 
 THE DIALECT. 5 
 
 tliem in 1859^ that several islands^ Agalega^ Coetivy, and 
 He Platte, lie between Mauritius and the Seychelles. I 
 may also mention that there are coral islets near to ^lau- 
 ritius, and some amongst the Seychelles group, between 
 which and Madagascar a few are also found : viz. the 
 Auiirautes and Providence Island, &c. ; but the Chagos 
 groups have this peculiarity, that there is no land of a 
 different formation anywhere in the vicinity. 
 
 A flourishing trade in cocoa-nut oil is the chief cause 
 why labourers of African descent, or imported from India, 
 are found in these islands. 
 
 The language which may be called vernacular in Mau- 
 ritius is Creole, a sort of corrupt French. Chinese arti- 
 sans, Indian coolies, Arab traders, Mozambique rescued 
 slaves, natives of Madagascar, and English soldiers, who 
 might land on the same day, each utterly unable to com- 
 prehend any one of the others, would be found, after a 
 year's residence, conversing together for the ordinary pur- 
 poses of life with ease in this strange dialect. The num- 
 ber of words in it is very limited. One expressive term is 
 used for all the shades of meaning which in the original 
 have their own separate words. For instance, for all 
 kinds of " seeing " the strong word guetter is employed. 
 Happiness of every degree, as well as different gradations 
 of complacency and affection, are expressed by the word 
 '^ content.'^ Gagner is used for every sort of acquisition, 
 from a large fortune to a bad cold. To catch and lay hold 
 of is chomho ; i.e. ^' Hens — bon ;" and a thief once passed by
 
 6 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 a crowd of persons untouched, because an officer who had 
 seen him emerge from a house, pursued by the occupants, 
 called out " Attrapez-le V If he had said, " Chombo-li " he 
 would have been seized at once. To the lower classes, 
 who only know Creole, good French is as unintelligible as 
 good English. In fact, more than once I have heard of the 
 reply being given to some one who spoke in French, " Moi 
 n^a pas connais Anglais.^' The only gender acknowledged 
 in the pronouns is the masculine singular, and as the 
 article when once put in is not again dropped, the com- 
 binations are sometimes exceedingly remarkable. Thus, 
 " the eyes,'^ " les yeux," becomes lizie ; and, " his eyes,'^ 
 son lizie : " Li viri son lizie,^^ he turns about his eyes. 
 
 The auxiliaries for the verbs are two : — Va, and^m. 
 
 Thus : — I go, is expressed by moi alle, 
 
 I shall go, „ moi va alle, 
 I went, „ moi fini alle. 
 
 It sounds strange at first to hear such expressions as, 
 ^' I have finished beginning ^^ — " I have finished finish- 
 ing.''^ Moi fini commence — Moi fin fini.
 
 . CHAPTER II. 
 
 FIRST FOUR YEARS IN MAURITIUS. 
 
 Although the British occupation of Mauritius dates 
 from 1810^ there was no Protestant church in the island 
 till 1828, when an old powder-magazine was adapted to 
 that purpose. No bishop visited the members of our 
 Church there tiU 1850^ when the Bishop of Colombo went^ 
 for the purpose, chiefly, of holding confirmations. He 
 consecrated three churches, visited several missionary sta- 
 tions, and by his earnest and faithful representations of 
 the wants of the Church, and the formation of the Mau- 
 ritius Church Association, gave an impulse to the cause, 
 of which the good results are felt to the present day. 
 When, chiefly through the efforts of the late Bishop of 
 London, a sum of money had been secured for the par- 
 tial endowment of a Bishopric at Mauritius, to be sup- 
 plemented by the salary of the retiring senior- chaplain, 
 the appointment was ofi*ered to me. The first six years of 
 my ministry had been employed in the island of Alderne}^, 
 where I had been confirmed in an acquaintance with the 
 French language, which had been begun at a former
 
 8 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 period. Those who thought of me for this reason were 
 not aWare of the fact, which many friends will be interested 
 in knowing — that some of my very early days had been 
 spent in IMauritius, from whence I went to Alderney for 
 some years ; where the fact of the language being French 
 enabled me to keep up an interest, which I had never lost, 
 in what was then known to me as " the Isle of France." 
 
 On the 30th of November, 1854, the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury and the Bishops of Lichfield, Chester, and 
 Gibraltar, consecrated the Bishop of Sydney and myself 
 in the parish church of Lambeth, where a large congre- 
 gation was assembled, and many of our friends and bre- 
 thren came there, with a prayerful interest in the solemn 
 service. The sermon was preached by our common friend, 
 the Rev. Canon Champneys ; and that night I set forth 
 for Guernsey and Alderney, to bid farewell to my friends, 
 and to endeavour to secure fellow-helpers for my work. 
 I succeeded in obtaining two, and at the Bishop of Win- 
 chester's request I consecrated the church at Cobo Bay, 
 the Rev. W. Guille acting as commissary. 
 
 On that occasion I met twenty-two clergymen, most 
 of them old friends. At Liverpool, eighty-two afterwards 
 united in a most kind address to the Bishop of Sydney 
 and myself; while the clergy in Islington had presented 
 me with a beautiful case, containing the Bible in eleven 
 versions, and the Prayer-book in eight; and a valuable 
 chronometer watch, made expressly for my tropical ser- 
 vice, had been given me by several lay friends in the same 
 place. These, with many other proofs of Christian affec-
 
 THE VOYAGE OUT. 9 
 
 tion and sympathy, contained in tliem a source and spring 
 of encouragement wliicli was often afterwards drawn 
 upon. For some time before my consecration I bad en- 
 deavoured to collect funds_, and, chiefly from Liverpool and 
 Islington, had obtained rather more than a thousand 
 pounds. The venerable Dowager Lady Grey had en- 
 trusted me with 200/., the residue of funds belonging to 
 a society which had once laboured for the establishment 
 and maintenance of schools in Mauritius. One of the 
 conditions of this advance was that I should defray the 
 outward expenses of Mr. Stephen Thornton, a school- 
 master formerly employed by the society to which I have 
 referred. 
 
 On the 15th of March, 1855, our party sailed from 
 Gravesend, consisting, besides m.y own family, of the 
 Rev. Dr. Fallet, whom I had recommended to the Secre- 
 tary of State (Sir G. Grey) for the chaplaincy at Seychelles, 
 having ordained him at Highbury, on March 11th, 
 1855 j Mr. Vaudin, a native of Sark ; and Mr. Western, 
 a Highbury master. Mr. Bichard was to follow with his 
 family, to take charge of a mission to the seamen. He 
 arrived on the 6th of August, and at once apphed himself 
 to his w^ork. 
 
 During the voyage out we had prayers eveiy morning 
 and evening in the cuddy, our excellent Captain (Noakes) 
 having given notice to that effect on the second morning 
 after we sailed. We also had tw^o full services every 
 Sunday; that is, the morning and evening prayer and 
 a sermon. There is much reason for thankful hope that
 
 10 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 these services were greatly blessed to several on board. 
 On the llth of June we came in sight of Mauritius, 
 having been eighty-two days at sea, during which time 
 the only land we saw was a glimpse of Madeira by moon- 
 light, and a clear view for several hours of the island of 
 Trinidad. The effect produced on all the passengers by 
 the lovely scenery of Mauritius was very great. Before 
 da^dight we were up to look out for land, which we soon 
 discovered. The sail up to and along the coast was exqui- 
 sitely beautiful. The word ^'^ fairy-land" seemed to occur 
 to every one. By four in the afternoon we landed. My 
 first welcome was very cheering. Captain Kelly, the 
 harbour-master, came to meet us, and offered to pilot us 
 in. He told me I had been very much wanted, and ex- 
 pressed very great pleasure at seeing me arrive. When we 
 anchored, the two chaplains then resident in the town, 
 Messrs. Pennington and Mason, came on board, with Mr. 
 Stair Douglas ; and then Mr. James Fraser, partner of 
 Captain Ireland, invited us to his house at Burnside ; and 
 Mr. Wiehe, Mr. Bartlett, Mr. Finnis, Mr. Kerr, Mr. 
 Ferneyhough, Mr. Beke, and others, welcomed us very 
 cordially. As the Governor had not arrived, we accepted 
 Mr. Fraser's hospitable invitation to Burnside, towards 
 Pamplemousses. The scene on shore was of the most 
 extraordinary character — French, Creoles, Arabs, Parsees, 
 Indians, with their many interesting costumes, met us on 
 the road. The plants and trees were all of an oriental 
 character — cocoa-nut trees, tamarinds, aloes, bamboos, 
 presented both novelty and variety. The mountains,
 
 BISHOPSTOWE. 11 
 
 with evening shadows on them ; the sea, appearing at in- 
 tervals between the openings ; the setting sun, and many- 
 other objects, combined to make the drive interesting to 
 an extent which only those in like circumstances, after 
 three months at sea, can understand. 
 
 The question as to where we were to fix our residence 
 next occupied our attention. The concurrent advice of 
 all friends at home had been that we should not try to 
 reside in town, but I found that it was expected in Port 
 Louis that I should ; and as a house had been looked at 
 vre took it, at the rate of 16/. per month. The income 
 allowed by the colony, from the date of my landing till 
 January of the ensuing year, was at the rate of 600/. per 
 annum. After a few days our eldest boy fell ill with a 
 raging fever, and for some time we despaired of his life. 
 Through the kindness of Captain and Mrs. Brownrigg 
 we had the opportunity of taking him to Beau Bassin, 
 about six miles from the town ; and then we occupied for 
 a month a house at Grand River, tenanted by the Rev. P. 
 Beaton, who was gone to Boui'bon ; and then we moved 
 into the house of the late chaplain, Mr. Banks, also at 
 Grand River, where we stayed until January, 1858, when 
 we moved to the residence at Pailles, since called Bishop- 
 stowe ; which was purchased for the see with the help of 
 1000/. from the Government. 
 
 The ecclesiastical position of affairs was as follows : — 
 
 In the town of Port Louis there were two chaplains : 
 
 the Rev. Philip Pennington, appointed by the Duke of 
 
 Newcastle in (April or May) 1854; the Rev. W. L.
 
 12 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Mason, appointed by Sir G. Grey, on my recommenda- 
 tion, towards the close of that year; the Rev. J. G. R. 
 De Joux, chaplain of the Mission at Plaines Wilhems and 
 Black River. 
 
 The services in town were — 1st, a military service 
 at six o'clock in the morning, at St. James's. 2nd. An 
 English service at 1 1 a.m. 3rd. Another at 5 a.m. 
 
 Every claim for any service of our Church, made by 
 any of its English members, among the military, the 
 seamen, the Indians, the residents in the other districts, 
 besides the prisons and the hospitals. Port Louis, was ad- 
 dressed to those two chaplains in town, with the following 
 exception: — The churches of St. John's at Moka, and 
 St. Thomas's at Plaines Wilhems, had one service each 
 performed in them by the Rev. J. M. De Joux, Inspector 
 of Government Schools, whose strength had been most 
 seriously impaired by a paralytic seizure. For the In- 
 dians, nothing was doing beyond the colportage of a few 
 copies of the Scriptures by an agent employed by the 
 committee of a Juvenile Church Missionary Society. 
 
 Our first Sunday in Port Louis was June 17th. 
 After a disturbed night from the rattling of the hurri- 
 cane-shutters through a strong trade-wind, we enjoyed a 
 breakfast very much in the English style, and felt thank- 
 ful to be in our o-um house, so near the church — just across 
 the road. The soldiers passed at seven to church, and 
 our own service began at eleven. Mr. Pennington read 
 the prayers ; Mr. Mason the lessons ; and I preached on 
 Rom. XV. 29, feeling that my farewell subject in England
 
 MAHEBOURG. 13 
 
 was one of the most appropriate I could take on begin- 
 ning here. Everything was most delightful — the well- 
 ordered church, the large and mixed congregation, and the 
 hopeful character of the text. But the responsibility was 
 most deeply impressed. The evening service was at five, 
 when I read the prayers, Mr. Pennington the lessons, and 
 Mr. Mason preached on Mary and Martha. 
 
 The second town in the island, in population and im- 
 portance, is Mahebourg, standing on a bay on the south- 
 eastern coast, about thirty miles from Port Louis. Our 
 first visit there was made on the 15th of June. At four 
 o^ clock Mr. Bartlett called at Labourdonnais Street for 
 Mrs. Byan and mj^self, and having taken up Mr. Wiehe 
 vre proceeded to Mahebourg, which I was anxious to visit 
 at once, to see the state of the church now being built 
 there, and to inquire into the state of things among the 
 population. We had a deeply interesting day. It was 
 bright starlight w^hen we started. The first travellers 
 whom we met were a group of English sailors, whose 
 direction towards the country did not look well in con- 
 nexion with the frequency of desertions from ships which 
 have recently taken place. In fact, all that I have heard 
 since our arrival respecting the numbers of the sailors, 
 their conduct, and the facilities which are offered by the 
 authorities for their instruction, tends to strengthen my 
 desire to do as much as possible for their good. The next 
 whom we met, overtook, or saw by the roadside, repre- 
 sented another class, urgently needing spiritual assistance.
 
 14 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 The swarthy figures of Indian carriers passing by the 
 carriage, with loads of fruit and vegetables on their heads 
 for the early market in Port Louis, others returning with 
 empty baskets or driving empty mule-carts, and the fires 
 by the roadside, around which groups of them were 
 gathered, buying coffee and cakes, gave a very oriental 
 appearance to the scene ; while the large Indian village at 
 Grand River, about two miles from Port Louis, and the 
 frequent recurrence of Indian huts, and the sight of 
 Indian labourers, drivers, messengers, along the whole 
 road to Mahebourg, at intervals by no means rare, left 
 an impression of the numbers, the need, the claims of 
 these heathen on our Christian effort, very strong on my 
 heart. And when we came to our journey's end, it was 
 very touching to see Indian labourers employed in helping 
 the workmen who were raising the structure intended to 
 be a house of prayer in the name of Christ. The text 
 naturally recurred to my mind, '' The sons of strangers 
 shall build up thy walls" — and with it, the earnest desire 
 that they might be gathered into the fold of the Church, 
 and made partakers of the privileges of the children of 
 God. 
 
 A visit to the barracks, where the head-quarters of the 
 85th Regiment, under Colonel Power, were stationed — one 
 to the Regimental School — and another to a large school, 
 where a great number of day-scholars and boarders were 
 assembled under Mr. George Clark, one of the most able 
 and successful teachers in the island, from whose friendly 
 assistance I have derived many advantages on subsequent
 
 PAMPLEMOUSSES. 15 
 
 occasions, filled up my time at Mahebourg in a very 
 agreeable manner. The church — of which the design had 
 been originally made by the Rev. W. Banks, and after- 
 wards altered in some respects by the Rev. Mr. Fleming — 
 w^as in a forw^ard stage of erection ; and monthly visits 
 w^ere paid to Mahebourg until it w^as completed. 
 
 The scenery along the road w^as of the most striking 
 character : every few miles brought some new^ range of 
 mountains in sight : only the highest peaks had summits 
 of bare rock, all the lo\ver ridges were covered to the top 
 with forest. Fine specimens of the fern-tree abounded on 
 the elevated plain in the centre of the island. And here 
 one feature of the scenery, noticed by the Bishop of 
 Colombo, struck us very forcibly, viz. the large number of 
 bare trees, which looked as if blasted by lightning or 
 stripped and shattered by whirlwinds, but which are really 
 eaten by white ants. The large nests of the ants near 
 the tops of some of them had a very strange appearance. 
 
 Wednesday, June 27th. — Captain West, the proprietor 
 of the estate at Grand Bay, called for me at 10 a.m., 
 and I started wath him in his carriage, accompanied by 
 Mr. Weston, to look at the schools, as I had promised. 
 The morning had been showery, so that the air was very 
 refreshing, and even cool. We stopped at Pamplemousses, 
 about seven miles from Port Louis, to go over the famous 
 Botanical Gardens there. Mr. Duncan, who has charge of 
 them, was very cordial in welcoming me to the island, and 
 seemed really glad for himself and others at the prospect
 
 16 • MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 of a service on Sundays. The trees in the garden were 
 very fine — many kinds of palm^ the cinnamon, the clove- 
 tree, the nutmeg, the bamboo, especially the thorny bam- 
 boo, gave the place a thoroughly oriental appearance. It 
 was with strange feelings that I looked upon these fine 
 specimens of a vegetation hitherto known to me only by 
 books or in conservatories. From the top of a long 
 avenue of palms the summit of Pieter Botte could be seen 
 through the vista, and the efi'ect was very fine. What 
 would some of our friends in England give for such a 
 sight ! Not far from the gardens we saw the site of the 
 new church which is to be erected, and for which a sub- 
 scription has been begun in the village of Pample mousses. 
 The situation appears central and convenient, within the 
 seventh mile from town. In proceeding to the estate, 
 we passed through thousands of acres planted with 
 sugar-canes. Some fields were sadly blighted by a weed 
 which has appeared of late years in the island, and which 
 it requires the greatest care to keep down. The sight 
 of Coin de Mire and Round Island, and the intervening 
 sea, which opened on us as we descended the very gentle 
 slope to the estate, reminded me of our first day^s view of 
 Mauritius. Much on the estate reminded me of England. 
 The spirit with which each department of work was con- 
 ducted, the care for all the labourers, the provision for 
 educating their children, continually made me recal similar 
 things in England, while the extensive and powerful ma- 
 chinery resembled Manchester cotton-mills. 
 
 In one part of the large machinery-house we found a 
 
 I/'
 
 GRAND BAY. 17 
 
 room for a school, which is used until the school-house (a 
 neat and commodious building) is roofed in. The master, 
 one of the converts from the Vacoas ^Mission, was only able 
 to speak French, so that there is no English instruction. 
 The number of scholars on the books was 38 ; present, 35 : 
 the larger number Indians, some very young. All the 
 Indian children on the estate are expected to attend. The 
 eldest girl, about fourteen, read, wrote, and ciphered well, 
 and led the singing of a beautiful French hymn on the 
 influences of the Holy Spirit. Several of the boys showed 
 much intelligence, and had a very pleasant manner ; but 
 one rough, uncultivated-looking youth, of about twelve 
 years of age, attracted my special notice. There was an 
 inquisitive, penetrating expression about his eyes, which 
 indicated the working of an eager mind, but wherein the 
 powers of that mind consisted was a mystery, for he could 
 not read so well as many of his juniors. Something which 
 was said about him elicited from Mr. West the remark that 
 he was the orphan of an Indian priest, and had succeeded 
 his father as the oracle of the camp — that he wrote out 
 poetiy for the Indians, and made so much by that occu- 
 pation that he did not care about coming to school for his 
 rations. He was sent to fetch specimens of his poetry, 
 and returned with twenty-six sheets of manuscript Hindoo 
 poetry, recently written with great neatness in black ink, 
 with red lines at intervals^ and illuminated work on some 
 of the pages remarkably well done. I could not but feel 
 what a treasure that youth might become to his country- 
 
 c
 
 18 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 meiij if his mind and heart were imbued with the knowledge 
 and love of Christ. 
 
 We visited also a school in a building belonging to the 
 Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, but rented by 
 the Government. The order and discipline were as well 
 maintained as I have ever seen them, and the authority of 
 the master, Mr. Benoit, was complete, though his manner 
 was exceedingly quiet. All the boys and girls present, 
 nearly forty, were Creoles, some of them evidently in good 
 circumstances, and they showed great intelligence. 1 was 
 sorry not to see a single Indian child there. 
 
 As on the Mahebourg day, so on this, a leading 
 impression left on my mind is — the Indians, the Indians; 
 and while the impression is fresh I desire to record it. 
 On our way out we saw a string of seven or eight of 
 them led along by the police, and I found that the sys- 
 tem of vagabondage, or, as it would have been called in 
 old times here, " marooning,^^ prevails to a great extent — 
 that men are continually running away from the estates 
 to which they had been assigned. On looking at the 
 '^ camp,^^ on Captain West's estate, long lines of stone 
 houses, capable of accommodating 400, I saw many of 
 these men, who had already done their task and had 
 returned to spend the rest of the day in idleness. In 
 going over the estate we met many thus returning from 
 their work. The few women whom we saw had a veiy 
 degraded appearance, and altogether I felt that the 
 habits of the people presented the opportunity, and their
 
 GRAND BAY. 19 
 
 condition loudly proclaimed the need^ for teaching and 
 preaching the Gospel, which alone can truly elevate and 
 civilize, and make happy. My ignorance of the language 
 was very painful to me when I went into the hospital on 
 the estate, in which there were five men, some of whom 
 looked very ill and sorrowful. The utter indolence of 
 the Indian women is spoken of in all quarters. On our 
 return home we saw fields in which the cane had been 
 recently planted; others just prepared for planting, and, 
 in fact, the cane in every stage of its progress. We were 
 thus enabled to judge of the amount of manual labour 
 required. Nothing but ocular demonstration can convey 
 an idea of the rocky nature of the soil in which some of 
 the best crops are reared. A cane-field in some parts, 
 when just ready for the plants, presents the appearance 
 of lines of stone walls, thick and high, some of the stones 
 weighing even tons, and requiring several men with crow- 
 bars to move them. After an interval the ground is 
 renewed, by placing the walls in the furrows, and making 
 furrows where the walls had been. This, of course, bears 
 directly on the subject of the Indians. Manual labour 
 to an immense amount will alv/ays be wanted. A large 
 number of Indians must form the great proportion of the 
 population of Mauritius, if it is to continue a sugar- 
 producing colony. These Indians are from a low class, 
 even in India. Some dreadful atrocities have been per- 
 petrated by them of late years. One fearful case of sufi*o- 
 cation after protracted torture, in which thirteen of them 
 were concerned, and for which three were executed, is
 
 20 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 spoken of with much horror ; and since we landed two 
 frightful murders have taken place, one in the Vallee des 
 Pretres, a beautiful glen near Pieter Botte, and another 
 this last week in the district of the Savannes. The 
 poor people are indeed in the highways and hedges of 
 humanity. The spell of their own religion, whatever 
 that was, is to a great extent broken ; the check of their 
 native institutions and local associations removed; and 
 nothing adequate to the need done to bring them under 
 the holy influences of the true religion, to train them in 
 the observances of the spiritual worship of God, or to 
 bring them into that communion of saints which sur- 
 rounds a Christian wherever he is with a brotherhood on 
 earth, and consoles him with the hope of an inheritance 
 in heaven. I say, nothing adequate to the need, for some- 
 thing has been done. A devoted man who had once 
 laboured among the Wesleyans, and left them with very 
 honourable testimonials to his consistent and faithful dis- 
 charge of the duties he had undertaken, and afterwards 
 worked in a mission belonging to the Society for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel, has been employed for a year 
 by the Madras Bible Society, with another to help him. 
 
 The emancipated slaves have, from the period of my first 
 arrival, excited deep interest, and that interest has gone 
 on increasing with further acquaintance. A large district 
 to the right of the road to Mahebourg goes by the name 
 of Vacoas. The country, some years ago, was covered with 
 forest trees ; now a great deal of it is cleared, especially on 
 the slopes of the Trou aux Cerfs, and here the emancipated
 
 VACOAS. 21 
 
 slaves and tlieii' descendants have purchased small plots of 
 ground, built their '^ cazes" (or cabins) in them_, and 
 cleared the ground to cultivate rice, potatoes, and even 
 sugar-canes, on the sale of which articles they make their 
 living. Left to themselves, they are generally veiy de- 
 graded, very ignorant, and sometimes veiy destitute. 
 Their neighbours of European descent looked down upon 
 them vrith much the same feeling as the planters on the 
 slaves of old. Amongst these persons Mr. De Joux began 
 his missionary efforts some four years ago, when he was 
 Mathematical Professor at the Royal College here. As 
 soon as he could, he gave up his work at the College to 
 settle among them. The w^ork at Vacoas was an offshoot 
 from that at Petite Riviere (Bambou), but the accounts I 
 had heard of the religious destitution of the people made 
 me wish to visit it first. 
 
 On the 26th of July I started at half-past six, and met 
 Mr. De Joux at a place called Chester Bank. "When we 
 reached the little caze, which is now the Vicarage of 
 Vacoas, I was much struck with eveiything around me. 
 The simplicity and working character of the whole appa- 
 ratus was very clear. The ground round the house, till 
 very recently a forest, had now veiy serviceable beds of 
 artichokes, garlick, &c., a reseiToir, various buildings for 
 pigs, goats, and poultry, which are most necessary in such 
 an out-of-the-way place to avoid shortness of food. The 
 view from the windows of the room in which we break- 
 fasted was very grand ; the finest sight of the Trois Ma- 
 melles that I have yet gained, and more than a couple of
 
 22 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 miles off. The air was very cool, and a great deal of rain 
 fell in heavy showers nearly the whole time I was there. 
 One of Mr. De Joux's servants seemed particularly pleased 
 to welcome me to the house. He had a fine, expressive, 
 happy-looking countenance. I found he was a Malegache, 
 who had been a soldier in Madagascar, and is now a soldier 
 of Christ. During the prevalence of cholera he acted as 
 Mr. De Joux's chief agent in raising and directing a band 
 of helpers, through whose instrumentality all the families 
 were visited. Finding Mr. De Joux very ill from a re- 
 peated attack when he came to the house one day, he 
 determined not to leave him any more, and has continued 
 with him ever since. His joy at the prospect of getting a 
 Bible in Malagasy was great ; " Moi bien content " the 
 expression of it. At breakfast, venison was produced. Its 
 appearance was thus accounted for. The day before yes- 
 terday Mr. De Joux was riding along in one of the showers 
 so frequent at Vacoas, when he heard a voice shouting out, 
 " Eh, Monsieur ! ou allez vous du temps qu^il fait V' ''Je 
 vais visiter des malades,^^ he replied to the chasseur with 
 his pack of hounds. " Et moi,^^ the other replied, "je 
 vais manger mon diner.^' Next morning a present of 
 venison was sent. 
 
 We walked through the rain by a most primitive path 
 to the most completely missionary church I have yet seen 
 — a long building of palisades, well thatched, nicely fitted 
 up with benches, having, when we entered it, the boys' 
 school towards one end and the girls' at the other. The 
 master was away, having gone to see his father at Pample-
 
 VACOAS. 23 
 
 mousses. The mistress, an intelligent young woman, evi- 
 dently interested in her work, and delighted to see Mr. 
 De Joux, was superintending the whole. '^ La pluie et 
 la boue/' as a fine boy explained it to me with great 
 ndivetiy had kept most of the pupils away. Their parents 
 are squatters with small portions of ground, from two to 
 ten acres, on which they have built their little cazes, and 
 until Mr. De Joux began to work amongst them they 
 were living very much like savages, in many respects. I 
 was intensely eager to see what had been done with these 
 children, and was indeed gratified when I heard the eldest 
 boys and girls read distinctly in French, the next spelling 
 their monosyllables, and the last learning the letters of 
 the alphabet. I felt, Here is a nucleus for good, minds 
 redeemed from the waste. I examined each one of the 
 twenty childi'en, and was greatly pleased with their hearty 
 and aff'ectionate manner. When I asked them to sing, a 
 little collection was brought out, printed for the Mission, 
 and they sang with more heart and voice than softness 
 and melody two beautiful hymns. This also rejoiced me 
 much. 
 
 It was easy to see at once that Mr. De Joux was a 
 pastor with his flock. A sick man, into whose caze he took 
 me, asked for Vincent, having heard from Mr. De Joux 
 that he was ill ; and both the man and his wife entered 
 readily and heartily into the spirit of some remarks made^ 
 of a rehgious character. Three of their boys belonged to 
 the school. The nice furniture of the humble dwelling 
 was quite in accordance with the refined tone of the
 
 24 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 people. On our way to and from churcli we crossed a 
 torrent, which is sometimes so swollen that all the men in 
 the congregation have to help in getting the children 
 across. One of Mr. De Joux^s ministerial experiences was 
 very descriptive of the real character of his work among 
 those simple people. Two days ago he was catechising in 
 the house of a good lady, in one corner of the parish, when 
 he found that even his knowledge of the language and 
 habits of the people did not avail to make them under- 
 stand and appreciate what he said. The lady volunteered 
 to make it plainer to them, and their countenances at once 
 brightened, and he begged her to go on, with the double 
 purpose of doing her good and of making it plain to them. 
 He had just been telling me that the congregation at 
 Bambou were his "great children,^^ and that these at 
 Vacoas were "mes petits enfans,^^ when we met two men, 
 one of whom at once said, " Un des enfans malade?^' 
 (meaning, "Is one of the parishioners sick?^') On re- 
 turning to the house, I found my Malagasy friend near 
 his own little caze. I entered, and saw a bed with snow- 
 white sheets in one room, and another bed in another 
 room, with a prayer-book, hymn-book, &c., on the table. 
 It was a hut made of palm-leaves and bamboos, but beau- 
 tifully neat and nicely furnished. I asked if they had 
 any children, and found they had one girl — that she sang 
 nicely, that they had hymns every evening, and that she 
 was one whom I had noticed as leader of singing in the 
 school. It was very delightful to wish such people a 
 blessing in the name of the Lord.
 
 BELLE ISLE YACOAS. 25 
 
 A nearly level road, extending ten miles westward of 
 Port Louis, parallel to the sea, leads to the licensed 
 school-room at Belle Isle, belonging to the Society for 
 the Propagation of the Gospel. On the second Sunday 
 in September I held a confirmation there, when forty- 
 seven candidates presented themselves. I was much 
 gratified and encouraged by that service, and the same 
 effect was produced on several members of the Mauritius 
 Church Association who were present. Five of the can- 
 didates had walked ten miles, several eighteen miles, and 
 three (two Creole women and a Christian Indian) had 
 been sent in a cart about nine miles. Many circum- 
 stances combined to make me feel most deeply the privi- 
 lege of uniting in Christian worship with such a congre- 
 gation. At the close of the service, those who had come 
 from Morne Brabant, eighteen miles off, entreated me, 
 in the name of their friends and relatives, to send them a 
 catechist. The room, the benches, &c., were all ready. 
 
 On Sunday, September 30th, I again visited Vacoas. 
 Mrs. Ryan and L. accompanied me to Mr. De Joux's little 
 parsonage. We found that the Roman Catholic neigh- 
 bours had sent flowers, artichokes, peas, &e., because Mr. 
 De Joux's Bishop was coming. This conduct is just like 
 what we have experienced from the first from the Roman 
 Catholic laity here. But the four priests of the neigh- 
 bouring parts were so diligent that only three Roman 
 Catholics attended the service. The doors of the thatched 
 church, which is built of palisades, were most tastefully 
 hung with roses, and the bouquets of flowers blended
 
 26 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 with the leaves of the Vacoas palm inside the church 
 produced a very pleasing effect. Round this building, at 
 irregular distances of from one to seven miles, the huts 
 of the ex-slaves are found. They were much neglected 
 when Mr. De Joux began his work among them. Marriage 
 was unknown among many of them. They were very 
 ignorant, and the Word of God had no place. He began 
 in a caze, which I have visited with much interest. He 
 has now between forty and fifty children in the school. 
 
 There were about 200 adults, besides the children, at 
 the service, and eighty-four persons were confirmed. It 
 was a most thrilling service to me in some parts. " Notre 
 Pere qui es aux cieux,'^ came w^th peculiar power when 
 uttered under such circumstances ; and the expression in 
 the second Collect, " dont le service est une liberte par- 
 faite," made me feel how we ought to strive and pray that 
 all who have the bodily enfranchisement may indeed 
 know the liberty wherewith Christ makes His people 
 free. 
 
 The accompanying hymn is often sung in our services, 
 and some of its expressions have a very special power 
 under the circumstances, — 
 
 " Oh ! que ton joug est facile ! 
 
 Oh ! combien j'aime ta loi, 
 Dieu Saint, Dieu de I'Evangile ! 
 
 Elle est toujours devant moi ; 
 De mes pas c'est la lumiere, 
 
 C'est le repos de mon cceur : 
 Mais pour la voir tout entiere, 
 
 Ouvre mes yeux, bon Sauveur.
 
 VACOAS. 27 
 
 Non, ta loi n'est point p6nible 
 
 Pour quiconque est ne de toi ; 
 Toute victoire est possible 
 
 A qui combat avec foi. 
 Seigneur, dans ta forteresse 
 
 Aucun mal ne m'atteindra ; 
 Si je tremble en ma faiblesse, 
 
 Ta droite me soutiendra. 
 
 D'un triste et rude esclavage 
 
 Affranchi par Jesus-Christ, 
 J'ai part a son heritage, 
 
 Aux secours de ton esprit. 
 Au lieu d'un maitre severe 
 
 Pret a juger et punir, 
 Je sers le plus tendre Pere, 
 
 Toujours pret a me benir. 
 
 Dieu qui guide, et qui console, 
 
 J'ai counu que le bonheur ; 
 C'est de garder ta parole, 
 
 Et je la serre a mon coeur. 
 Fais moi marcher dans ta voie, 
 
 Et me plaire en tes statuts ; 
 Si je cherche en toi ma joie, 
 
 Je ne serais pas confus." 
 
 Mr. De Joux works nobly for the temporal and spiritual 
 interests of his people. The opposition and the difficulties 
 are great. Men who have been slaves^ and have then been 
 left for many years uncared for^ are not easily reclaimed ; 
 and then, when the effort to reclaim them is made in any 
 quarter, the priests direct their attention especially to that^ 
 so that the obstacles are immense. But the encourage- 
 ment is also very great j and if only our brethren in Eng-
 
 28 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 land will help, the way is open for approaching these poor 
 people wdth the blessings of the Gospel of peace in our 
 hands. At the north-eastern end of the island there is 
 the same facility of access, but as yet not the means to 
 avail ourselves of it. Mr. De Joux is the only clergyman 
 at present. 
 
 Morne Brabant. — This part of the island is twenty- 
 eight miles from the town, and the district until lately 
 was in a very wild, uncultivated state. Many of the resi- 
 dents are of Malegache extraction, and some of them were 
 very earnest for the settlement of a minister amongst 
 them. I promised to go to them as soon as I could, and 
 on the 12th of December I went off" early with Mr. 
 Bichard to visit them. The journey to Black River was 
 by land, the scenery most lovely. We took the lower 
 road by the coast, and in fording the river the horses 
 stuck fast, much to my dismay, for I w^as five days vacci- 
 nated, with much irritation of the arm, and there have 
 been many serious, and a few^ fatal, cases of re-vaccina- 
 tion. (The prevalence of epidemic small-pox has made 
 the use of this precaution general.) However, an Indian 
 appeared, who carried me out of the car^-iage, across the 
 broad stream, with a very tottering step it is true, and I 
 felt that he was a very different man from a strong Eng- 
 lish waterman. The state of my arm the day before had 
 not permitted me to make a definite arrangement with 
 Mr. De Joux and the catechist, who had therefore gone 
 on before we reached Petite Biviere on our way. They
 
 MORNE BRABANT. 29 
 
 went in a donkey-carriage more inland^ over tlie hills. At 
 Black River station we found a boat, and waited till Mr. 
 De Joux and Mr. Du Casse came up, and then went by- 
 sea to the Morne, which we reached in an hour and a half. 
 The scenery was most enchanting. The white breakers 
 on the reefs, the bright crystal waves under the light of a 
 tropical sun, the line of coast along which we were sailing, 
 rising gradually into mountains clothed with trees to the 
 very summits, and opening out the most beautiful gorges, 
 supplied objects of insatiable interest. It was indeed a 
 beautiful sail. In front, the Morne, a fine high moun- 
 tain, apparently rising from the sea, but having in reality 
 a large wide plain extending from its outer base, far away 
 to the south-west. On the isthmus, between the Morne 
 and the land, was the house to which we were going. 
 Children and adults w^ere to meet us from the plain on 
 the seaward side of the mountain. 
 
 We were welcomed by Madame La Bonte, mother of 
 Madame Beguinnot, in w^hose house the school is kept and 
 the assembly held, Mons. Beguinnot acting as school- 
 master. Between fifty and sixty persons were assembled, 
 — Europeans, French Creoles, Mozambique ex-appren- 
 tices, and Malagasy Christians. I examined the young 
 people and several of the old, and found that very few 
 could read. My former acquaintances, who had tw^ice 
 walked thirty-six miles (eighteen there and back) to be 
 confirmed, w^ere there ; very earnest for Malegache books, 
 and for a catechist to come regularly every Sunday. I 
 began the service by reading a French hymn, which was
 
 30 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sung ; then I said a few Collects from memory in French ; 
 after which I addressed them on the latter part of Rev. 
 vii.j words which have peculiar force w4ien one sees the 
 representatives of several nations and tongues listening to 
 the word of life. Mr. De Joux then spoke to them, and 
 especially met the objection which the Romish priest has 
 been diligently instilling into their minds, — that we are 
 not likely to hold on. As the work has been interrupted 
 once after having been most prosperously begun, the ob- 
 jection has weight with many : but I trust that, through 
 God's mercy, we shall be so supported from home as not 
 to be exposed to this sorrow. Mr. De Joux's expression 
 when addressing the people sounded rather strange, — "Mes 
 petits enfans,'' — when there were those present who were 
 slaves in the time of Mons. Lamartic ; but conversation 
 with them soon showed that he was right. I feel much 
 sorrow when I ascertain, in one part of the island after an- 
 other, how few can read. The Romish schools in such dis- 
 tricts are for teaching their catechism, but not for teach- 
 ing them to read the word of God. Those who can read, 
 and who have the word of God, rejoice in it exceedingly. 
 The issue of my visit was the establishment of that 
 school, the adhesion of the Romish teacher from the 
 Chamarel to us, and the arrangement of a plan for giving 
 Scriptural instruction in a region (the Chamarel moun- 
 tains) which we never could penetrate before. And on 
 the second day after we had been there, the catechist 
 came to tell me he was so impressed by the desire of the 
 people at the Morne for a Sunday service, that he pro-
 
 MORXE BRABANT. 31 
 
 posed to go every Saturday (eighteen miles, and some of 
 it a very bad road), returning on the Monday, if the ex- 
 pense of the donkey could be arranged. This leaves a 
 space of twenty-eight miles from Port Louis entirely open 
 to judicious, and, above aW, persevering effort. On our re- 
 turn we partook of the very kind hospitality of the officer 
 in command at the station, and called on Mons. Geneve, 
 who is mentioned by the Bishop of Colombo in his Jour- 
 nal. He received us with great politeness, and we re- 
 turned well pleased with the day's excursion. 
 
 I will here introduce a brief mention of some encou- 
 raging incidents at the end of 1855. 
 
 On the 14th of December, as 1 was writing in the 
 vestry, a vei*y striking Indian entered the vestiy, and 
 came and stood before me, and in a deep thrilling voice 
 said he was a Mohammedan, but an unhappy one, and he 
 wished to put on Christ by baptism. He turns out to 
 be a well-read man, and has gone through very keen 
 trial the last eighteen months, which he has interpreted 
 as a punishment for his hardness of heart when under 
 Christian instruction in India. He had been a monitor 
 for eight years in a mission-school, and appears to have 
 endeavoured to believe that Christianity was not a bad re- 
 ligion, but that Mohammedanism was the true one. The 
 question which has lately given him no rest is, " If 
 Christ fully revealed the will of God, and made a perfect 
 propitiation, what need could there be of Mohammed's 
 teaching?" He afterwards wrote a letter to me, in 
 which he spoke of the privilege he had enjoyed in the
 
 32 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 instruction of the school at ^ladras; and when I had 
 another interview with him^ I found that his mother 
 had been "learned in explaining the Koran/^ because 
 her father was one of those who knew it by heart. Her 
 principles used to blot out the instructions received at 
 school, but still some things remained, and here in his 
 distress he remembered them, and wished very much to 
 become a Christian. He was baptized early in the fol- 
 lowing year. 
 
 On Sunday morning, December 16, I had the privi- 
 lege of conducting the opening service on board the 
 Mariners^ Chapel, and a most interesting occasion it was. 
 A month before, the ship had been purchased — a bark 
 which used to trade between this and Melbourne. It 
 had been in the workmen^s hands, going through various 
 processes, ever since; and there it was, with a fine clear 
 deck covered with new benches, with a wooden roof over 
 nearly the whole length of the deck, closed in near the 
 bows by the Union Jack, and with long pieces of sail- 
 cloth to fill up the space between the roof and the bul- 
 warks if necessary; the reading-desk neatly fitted on to 
 what had been the binnacle of the ship, and the main 
 cabin below ready as a vestry, while a bell was fastened 
 in the bow of the ship to summon the sailors from the 
 neighbouring vessels. The deck was crowded when I 
 was summoned up to begin the service. From the cabin 
 window I had seen the boats coming from difi^erent ships, 
 and I found Captain Kelly, the harbour-master (to whose 
 exertions we owe so early a possession of a ]\Iariners'
 
 PORT LOUIS. 33 
 
 chapel_, and so complete a fitting out for the purposes of 
 Christian worship), General Hay, Commissary- General 
 Laidley, several gentlemen connected with the shipping, 
 a large number of captains of ships, amongst them some 
 Americans (the American consul Tvas also there), and a 
 large number of seamen. 
 
 It was a most interesting occasion. I preached from 
 Psalm cvii. 23-32, and referred to the Bishop of London^s 
 expression of deep interest in such a work, and his quota- 
 tion from an American bishop, Potter of Pennsylvania. 
 In this way we realised much communion of spirit — the 
 Church on shore coming to meet our brethren from the 
 ships, and a voice from London, and one from Pennsyl- 
 vania, joining in the same brotherly sentiments. 
 
 The completion of the Seamen^ s Church determined 
 me to ordain Mr. Bichard as deacon on St. Thomases 
 day, instead of waiting, as I had intended, till Easter. 
 Mr. Taylor, the Missionary to the Indians, was also 
 ordained deacon at the same time. Many Indians were 
 present in their white dresses ; some with more European 
 costume. That three such labourers as Dr. Pallet and 
 these two should have been put in my way during the 
 year is matter of much thankfulness, and I regard it as 
 an answer to the many prayers for which I have asked, 
 and which I know have been offered up on that behalf. 
 
 On Christmas-day our church was completely full in 
 the morning, but very thin in the evening. We felt much 
 communion of spirit with those at home, and the oneness 
 of the spiritual part of the day^s observances prevented
 
 34 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 me from feeling some of the circumstances of difference 
 as much as I should have done. One characteristic 
 difference was that the sexton (rather to my discomfort) 
 got up to shut part of the eastern door, because the trade- 
 wind was rather fresh, and made quite a rustling in the 
 beautiful palm-leaves, or rather branches, with which the 
 church was thickly decorated. They made me think of 
 another assembly and other palms. 
 
 1856. — On July 1st six Bengalees were baptized, with 
 several peculiarly interesting circumstances ; such as a 
 nine years' certificate of excellent character, brought by 
 one of them from his master, and the connection of two 
 others with efforts made by Mr. Banks. It is quite 
 pleasant to look at our baptismal register now, with its 
 interlacing of Indian names. The spirit of inquiry seems 
 to me to be spreading, and to be very earnest. A fine 
 youth of sixteen is now in the school with turbaned head 
 and Indian dress, among those who are preparing for the 
 work of teaching by and bye. Another has just been 
 brought to me by his uncle (Peersaib), just landed — a boy 
 of -sixteen, who reads English well. Caste is not quite 
 broken here. The youth first mentioned above declined 
 boarding with our catechist because of caste — (he is not 
 yet a Christian, but very earnest in his desire to read the 
 Scriptures) — and I find that a man who was very ill some 
 time ago must have died for want of food, had not his 
 master procured from a distance a member of the same 
 high caste as himself to give him nourishment. Several 
 Indians of high position have been to me lately. On
 
 PORT LOUIS. 35 
 
 Sunday last the Tamil singing in the school-room sounded 
 in my ears in the intervals of my reading the Command- 
 ments. A Teloogoo Christian of good education has just 
 been to me^ to tell me of his work_, &c. in his new situ- 
 ation. It is very pleasant to hear him say that he under- 
 stands all my sermons. It was the pleasant part of the 
 testimony of the poor sailors on board the *"' Malabar ; '^ 
 but vrhat makes it specially so in his case is the proof of 
 the efficiency of the teaching of the Missionaries in India. 
 Many instances of this have been brought before me. 
 Ability and perseverance must have been applied in the 
 Indian schools to enable them to send forth such pupils 
 as I have seen. 
 
 On my way from visiting a sick woman just now (Wed- 
 nesday evening), I went near the school-room_, where Mr. 
 Taylor was holding his service. The full, deep response 
 of the congregation was indeed delightful to hear ; and as 
 I heard him enlarging with such fluency, and such easy 
 modulation of voice to them, I felt what a blessing it 
 was to have found such a man here. Perhaps, in all India 
 one more fit for just what there was to do at first could 
 not have been found. Charles Kooshalee^s judicious and 
 earnest work among the Bengalees was suggested last 
 night as a theme of grateful thought, when I passed a 
 house where two of his catechumens are .preparing with 
 much joy to celebrate their Christian marriage. While 
 standing near the school, the form of a soldier in very 
 distinct outline, coming down the hill from the citadel, 
 reminded me of my early acquaintance with Mauritius,
 
 36 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and how the men who served here in those days have 
 passed away. What a comfort to have such indications 
 as God in His mercy has given of His favour: — may He 
 bless our efiforts to do a good that shall remain ! 
 
 July 4th. — Oh ! the wonderful meaning conveyed in 
 our blessed Lord^s precept, " Pray ye therefore the Lord 
 of the harvest that He will send forth labourers into 
 His harvest/^ I do trust, that when the success given 
 here is spoken of it will be remembered that Mr. De 
 Joux is working at Vacoas, that Mr. Taylor is working 
 among the Indians, Mr. Bichard among the sailors — 
 besides other labourers. These are the men who go the 
 daily rounds, and speak the words, and give the books, 
 &c. Mr. Vaudin is now at work as my schoolmaster, so 
 that Alderney, Sark, and Guernsey (Mr. Bichard is from 
 Guernsey) have each their agents here. How wonderfully 
 the providence of God works ! Possessions of England in 
 Europe where French is spoken, giving labourers for 
 possessions of England in Africa of the same character ; 
 the latter being connected with Africa, Madagascar, India, 
 and China. 
 
 July 21st. — We are now having cooler w^eather. Yester- 
 day morning the thermometer was at 68° in the verandah. 
 Twice lately I have had walks on the sea-shore to our left ; 
 once with Capt. Gordon, the zealous helper of our work 
 here, and last week with three young men, whose fathers 
 had been cut off by the cholera of 1854. It was a most 
 beautiful walk. We went on towards the west until sun- 
 set, and of all the sunsets I ever saw, none equalled that in
 
 PORT LOUIS. 37 
 
 one respect J viz. the fiery gold which fringed the cloud in 
 which the sun went down. The coral strand on which we 
 were walkings the calm expanse of water before us^ the 
 reflection of the light on the feathery palm-trees, the 
 glorious brightness of that island-shaped cloud, made up 
 a scene which I do not think I shall soon forget. And 
 then, when we turned our backs on the west, we had before 
 us the mountains of Port Louis, Pieter Botte, the Pouce, 
 and others, under the hght of the full moon. After the 
 work of the preceding days it was a very refreshing walk. 
 Two evenin2:s afterwards^ while L. and I were walkins: 
 before the house in the bright moonlight, a magnificent 
 meteor blazed brightly over the mountains at some height, 
 shedding a light far beyond that of the moon ; then went 
 horizontally from south to north, divided into two parts; 
 and at last seemed to burst into a thousand sparks. 
 Our Creole servant was greatly moved at seeing it, and 
 described it as '^ a. great light which parted from the 
 moon, and then divided into two stars.^' From the great 
 transparency of the atmosphere, the moon appeared just 
 like a balloon, not with its usually fixed appearance, but 
 giving the idea of being suspended in the atmosphere, and 
 moving on. I never saw a sky in which it seemed so 
 easy to conceive the appearance of bright angels of mercy 
 passing on in their ministrations to the children of God. 
 
 One circumstance in our present position may be in- 
 teresting, \'iz. that the very house we are living in was 
 formerly used as a receptacle for the poor slaves who were 
 smuggled in from Africa : as many as forty have been
 
 38 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 stowed in the upper part of the house, waiting for an 
 opportunity to be transferred to the estates. On the 
 question of African Immigration there is a good deal of 
 really earnest inquiry going on. Among all the discus- 
 sions, the thought occupies my own mind very seriously, 
 — Is not an opportunity going to be presented to us for 
 training native agents for Missionary work along the coast 
 of East Africa? and not only along the coast, but into the 
 far interior also ? 
 
 Aug. 6th. — Mr. De Joux has just been here, and given 
 me an account of the occupation of the table-land at Cha- 
 marcl last Sunday. The difficulty of the road in the midst 
 of mud and rain, and over a tenacious red clay, seems 
 to have tried them all ; but their success encouraged them 
 greatly, and they obtained at once seventeen children for 
 the school. A beautiful feature in Mr. De Joux's cha- 
 racter is the admiration which he so heartily expresses for 
 his devoted catechists. Speaking of their high hopes, he 
 said it was not in their own strength, and mentioned his 
 joy at seeing one of them (in the large room where he 
 and they were sleeping on benches, &c., as they could) 
 praying, as he thought, in the dark, but being visible to 
 Mr. De Joux through the light from a chink in the par- 
 tition, and bending for a long time in earnest devotion. 
 All that part of the island is chiefly peopled by Africans 
 and Malegaches; but there are some Indians, and I was 
 most thankful to hear that the shepherd of a friend of 
 ours there, who is an Indian, knowing two of the ver- 
 nacular languages of India, asked permission to gather
 
 PORT LOUIS. 39 
 
 the children of Indians around into a room on the hill- 
 side, which was very cordially given him. r\Iost heartily 
 do I re-echo Mr. De Joux's remark, that we must do our 
 best that all may have a chance of learning for themselves 
 the way of salvation. 
 
 Yesterday morning two very different descriptions 
 were given me by the same individual; each, however, 
 adding to the force of our obligations towards the Indians. 
 The first was an account of a dreadful murder. On one 
 of the estates it was known that there were Thugs. Some 
 time ago, a groom complained of some of his subordi- 
 nates. They resented this, met together, and over a glass 
 of water vowed his death. About a fortnight since he 
 suddenly disappeared. These men had dissembled their 
 resentment, and invited their victim to sup with them. 
 They drugged him, strangled him, and then carried him 
 on the shoulders of four, and threw him do^vn among the 
 sugar-canes. His sudden disappearance caused much un- 
 easiness, and through the unwearied diligence of a police 
 officer the whole matter was discovered. AVhen the body 
 was found, it was so decomposed that the daughter of the 
 murdered man, a child of ten years of age, did not recog- 
 nise it, but she recognised a red handkerchief which had 
 fallen from the head, and which had the Thuggee knot m 
 it and was covered with hair, as belonging to her father ; 
 and it was also ascertained that the handkerchief had been 
 on the man when he was with the others, on whom, for 
 some reason or other, suspicion had fallen. One of them 
 was led to a place where the body lay, and on seeing it.
 
 40 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 was so startled that he lost his presence of mind. The 
 same effect was produced on two others; and at last the 
 first confessed the whole of what they had done. One 
 wretch coolly said, " Do jou suppose it is the first time V 
 
 There is reason to fear that there are other Thugs on 
 the island, and perhaps the trial may lead to their disco- 
 very. The recklessness of human life, their own or others', 
 is a sad feature of some of the Indians here. A kind of 
 fatalism is also very prevalent among them. A different 
 picture was given of another man, whose wife died some 
 time ago ; and he was anxious to have his child baptized, 
 though not a Christian himself, from the impression that 
 his child would be happier from it. The daughter of his 
 employer, who was confirmed last year, began to teach 
 him to read. The Bengalee catechist is indefatigable in 
 his attention to him, and now the man is deferring his 
 child's baptism because he wishes at the same time to be 
 baptized himself. 
 
 Sept. 5fh. — Yesterday was one of those days of en- 
 couragement which often, in God's mercy, succeed times 
 of special, though very imperfect effort. Since April I have 
 had morning-classes on Thursdays for T:he young, and 
 finding that several were overlooked in the Confirmation 
 of last year, T gave notice that there would be one again 
 this year. I expected at first between 30 and 40. There 
 were 103; — English, French, Creole, Mozambique, Male- 
 gache, and Indian ; and I had the very great comfort of 
 feeling that every one had been under a pastor's hand. 
 The great majority had passed individually before me.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES. 41 
 
 There was an impression on ni}^ own spirit^ and on many 
 others, I find, of the power of the blessing of God on the 
 large congregation, which it is very delightful to dwell 
 upon. In connexion with every such use of the means 
 of grace, I feel gi-eat comfort in the thought of many 
 prayers offered on our behalf. I may truly say, that not 
 a day passes in wbich I do not realize to my thoughts 
 wdth heartfelt gratitude, the efficient help which has been 
 given from home. I do not think I ever felt more deeply 
 my own inability to answer the calls of my position in the 
 way of spiritually improving them than I do here. The 
 comfort is to look beyond the contracted limit of our 
 puny, irregular efforts, to the powerful operation of the 
 counsels and the actings of God in His covenant of grace ; 
 and then hope revives again. 
 
 The chief incident of the year 1856, so far as the work 
 of my diocese is concerned, was our visit to the Seychelles 
 islands, where Dr. Pallet had been labouring for rather 
 more than a year in succession to Mr. De la Fontaine. The 
 latter clergyman had left the islands rather suddenly, as 
 he was suffering^rom illness ; and some time had elapsed 
 before a suitable candidate for the chaplaincy there could 
 be found. Dr. Fallet applied himself with much zeal and 
 industry to his work, and had the satisfaction of seeing 
 the fruit of his labours in a large and attentive congre- 
 gatidn, and in the gradual prevalence of a system of 
 Christian order and morality which it cost him much pains 
 to establish. The account given in the following journal
 
 42 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 will show what the nature of the work was, and what 
 were the circumstances under which the ministrations of 
 the Church of England had to be carried on for some 
 years, until we were enabled to provide more suitable 
 means and appliances for Christian worship and for ele- 
 mentary education. 
 
 H. U. Brig " Frolic," lat. between 5° and 6°, 
 long. 53^ East : Oct. 30, 1856. 
 
 I thankfully embrace the opportunity of a very fine 
 day to begin an account of our pleasant visit to the Sey- 
 chelles, on w^hich we started on Saturday, the 11th of the 
 month, at three o^ clock in the afternoon. The pressure 
 of work connected with the early arrival of a mail from 
 England, and the replies sent a few days after, with the 
 various arrangements for the work during my absence, 
 particularly under the circumstances of Mr. Hobbs^s 
 "arrival in very delicate health, and Mr. Walshes intended 
 departure within a- week after us, together with the 
 anxiety about Mrs. Ryan's removal in her weakness from 
 recent illness, made the departure feel hurried, and rather 
 uncomfortable. AH that could be dofle by our kind 
 friends was done to facilitate our movements and plans. 
 ]\Ir. Wiehe sent his carriage to Grand River. Several of 
 us breakfasted wiih him. Mr. Bartlett was most active 
 in helping, and I prayed with them and Messrs. Bichard 
 and Taylor in the vestry. 
 
 Some extracts from my journal will, I think, be 
 the best method of sending home an account of this
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 43 
 
 visit, as it -oall secure my naming circumstances which 
 are now so common to me that I should not otherwise 
 do so, — 
 
 ^'Saturday, Oct. llth. — We were off at three. The 
 breeze was strong and water rough after leaving the Bell 
 buoy ; and there was a good deal of sickness amongst us 
 all — distressing in the night, and all the early part of 
 Sunday. 
 
 '^ Sunday, Oct. 12th. — The most un-Sunday-like Sun- 
 day I think I ever passed. I was suffering from prostration 
 of strength and repeated and violent sickness, and appa- 
 rently there was no prospect of my doing anything among 
 the seamen ; but just as Service was going to be read by 
 the Captain, I determined to rise from my bed on the deck 
 and try, and I was greatly helped. I read through the 
 Prayers and Communion Service, and gave them an 
 address on the God of Bethel, with allusion to our wor- 
 ship together, not in a church, but on the seas. I felt 
 truly thankful afterwards that I had been enabled to make 
 the effort, and reminded of the promise, ' As thy day, so 
 shall thy strength be.^ Very soon afterwards I suffered 
 greatly from siclcness again, and had violent attacks till 
 late at night, and was only able to read the service to my- 
 self in the afternoon, and one or two hymns with the 
 children on deck. Such days do, indeed, show that ' our 
 solemn and religious days ought to be accounted the 
 llower of our time, and that we should strive to spend 
 them happily.' '' 
 
 Before I proceed with Monday, I must note down our
 
 44 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 fellow-passengers : — Commander, Capt. Peyton ; Doctor, 
 Mr. Walsh ; Lieuts. Flood and Stevens ; Mate, Mr. Ger- 
 mains ; Master, Mr. Wells ; Assistant, Mr. Tarrouy ; Pay- 
 master, Mr. Sanders ; Junior Assistant, Mr. Coombes. 
 Captain and Mrs. Wade and their infant were our fellow- 
 passengers, Captain Wade being Civil Commissioner of 
 the Seychelles. They came to Mauritius a few months 
 ago, just at the end of the visitation of the cholera, and 
 they lost their only child, a very interesting boy, nearly 
 three years old. This heavy blow had made us all feel 
 deeply for them. 
 
 All our meals were on deck, and there was the greatest 
 kindness on the part of all in attending to the passengers. 
 The order of our days was as follows : — Tea very early ; 
 the seamen mustered for prayers (generally three Collects 
 and the Thanksgiving) at about nine; breakfast after- 
 wards ; dinner at four ; bed between eight and nine. 
 
 " Monday, Oct. ISth. — Rose early, and found deliver- 
 ance from the discomfort and prostration of sea-sickness 
 most welcome. I got the books up. We had prayers at 
 nine, and it was pleasant to find that the whole party was 
 improving. The memory was busily occiipied with vivid 
 recollection of many places and very different scenes. 
 
 " Tuesday, Oct. 14th. — I passed a very wakeful night, 
 and observed from my bed that it was very dark, and on 
 coming on deck at four, found the eclipse just occurring. 
 How strange that no one had warned any one else about 
 the eclipse ! I began distributing little books, and the 
 Memoir of Mr. Anstruther, and read the last division of
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 45 
 
 Sanderson's Sermons^ vol. iii., near the end. Many expres- 
 sions in tlie Psalms for the day (Morning Prayer) seem 
 very suitable to the circumstances in which Ave are pro- 
 ceedmg to the Seychelles. Many thoughts about the for- 
 midable danger of being satisfied with a mere external 
 routine of earnest work. 
 
 " Wednesday, Oct. \^th, — Lat. 10° at twelve o^clock. 
 Wet in the night. Rain and shght squalls. Had con- 
 verse with Mr. Flood about the Scamander and the sur- 
 rounding country. A good deal of conversation to-day 
 with different individuals. In the evening the sailors 
 singing, ^ Cheer, boys, cheer/ "^ Red, White, and Blue;' 
 ^ The White Squall,^ and another : all of them, as far as I 
 could hear, very appropriate seamen's songs. I was much 
 struck with the effect, though the sentiments were limited 
 to earthly patriotism and feeling. There is a wide field 
 in England for the work now begun in so many schools, of 
 training the young to sing proper songs properly. 
 
 " Thursday, Oct. IQth. — Distance from Mahe 215 
 miles, at twelve o'clock. I finished the account of Lemonier, 
 the French botanist ; a part of his scheme for collecting 
 plants, &c., carried Mons. Poivre across these very seas 
 a hundred years ago, under the auspices of the French 
 king. How delightful to think of the efforts now made 
 to send everywhere from England the Tree of Life ! Con- 
 versed with Captain Wade about the affairs of Seychelles, 
 and with the boatswain about St. Augustine's Bay, the 
 people, &c. His impression is favourable. The manoeuvre 
 to-day was firing three rounds and shifting the breeching :
 
 46 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 done in very quick time. One pleasant association with 
 all this is its use in the suppression of the slave-trade. 
 Several of our officers have been on the Western 
 coast. Looking at the map, the Eastern coast seems 
 very close to us here. The evening has been very 
 lovely. IMr. Ellis^s Visit to Madagascar, which I have 
 brought with me, is in full requisition. 
 
 " Saturday, Oct. ISth. — Land appeared at about 
 seven, but there was a doubt as to which of the islands 
 was seen. Frigate Island, then a strange mass of rocks, 
 Reciffe Island, and Mahe, form the first line from east to 
 west. I was the first to see Mahe. A shell was brought 
 up from forty fathoms, sounded in the night. I was re- 
 minded of the Channel Islands. Bird, one of the quarter- 
 masters, belonged to Mr. Veck^s choir at Forton, and 
 must have been in the choir, I think, the day I was con- 
 firmed there. 'Hope deferred, not lost,' has been in 
 circulation to-day. Very beautiful was the appearance of 
 the islands as we drew near -^ridges crested with trees 
 running across the length of !Mahe, about eighteen miles ; 
 the sun setting behind one of the highest hills, and just 
 showing part of his orb like living flame where the slope 
 gave an opening. We came to our anchorage in the dark, 
 St. Ann's and He aux Cerfs being to the east, and the 
 curve of the harbour in the dark shadow of the mountain 
 before us. The ship let go best bower anchor before 
 seven o'clock. We have reason for much gratitude for 
 such a passage. All on board are struck \a ith the wonderful 
 alteration in Mrs. Ryan's appearance. We were unable
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 47 
 
 to 2:0 on shore because of the reefs. I doubted this 
 
 o 
 
 very much at the time, but had reason to be fully con- 
 vinced of it afterwards; and even when the pilot came 
 I felt it was better to remain on board during the night, 
 so as to be ready for the service with the sailors the 
 next day before I went on shore. 
 
 '' Sunday, Oct. 19th. Make. — A most deeply interest- 
 ing day. I rose at half-past three, and saw the islands 
 of St. Ann^s and He aux Cerfs on one side, and Mahe 
 on the other, by moonlight. The whole effect was most 
 lovely. Afterwards, in the course of the morning, we 
 had a view which was perfectly enchanting. I never saw 
 anything like it before. The islands to the east, being 
 shut in with each other, presented the appearance of a 
 beautiful cove, the sea in which was of the brightest and 
 lightest green. The shore was the white coral sand, 
 skirted by gentle undulations, richly wooded ; and 
 above all rested a few elegant light clouds. It was, 
 indeed, a scene of surpassing beauty, and elicited the 
 admiration of all who saw it, while it made me think 
 of many who did not. The morning on board was rather 
 confused. At ten we had service — Psalm xxiii. The men 
 were very attentive, and we distributed tracts to each. 
 We struck on coral several times in the boat as we went 
 ashore. There was a large body of people on the shore 
 to meet us. 
 
 ^'We had ser^dce soon after four, and a full congre- 
 gation in the church, which is formed of three rooms of a 
 dwelling-house, turned into one, holding about two hundred
 
 48 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 people. I preached on ^ La Paix de Dieu/ and felt very 
 thankful to have such a subject ready. I had great comfort 
 in speaking, and felt it very exhilarating to think of the 
 different places in which the same Gospel is preached. 
 The large majority before me were of African descent. 
 Mr. J. Le Brun was at church, his wife^s health taking 
 him to Seychelles for probably several months. The 
 singing was excellent ; Mrs. Griffiths, the wife of the 
 district magistrate, with whom we afterwards dined, 
 having taught the girls. She is a Bordelaise, and her 
 family are Calvinists. 
 
 " Mondmj, Oct '20th. Make. — After a most re- 
 freshing night v/e saw a beautiful sunrise, and enjoyed 
 two or three walks before breakfast. One was above the 
 Cemetery, in a place formerly set apart, in the time of the 
 French, as the Kiug^s Garden, full of cinnamon-trees and 
 other rare and luxuriant plants. Being on the western 
 slope of the hill the shade was complete, and the place 
 most favourable for meditation. Another was up to the 
 flag-staff, to the east of Government House; Mrs. Wade 
 and L. with me. The view from that spot is very 
 extensive, commanding all the sea-line to the east and 
 to the west. The monument to Mons. De Quincy, the 
 last French commandant of the Seychelles, who after- 
 wards served under the English government, is there. 
 Several of his family are buried with him, and at the foot 
 some of their most faithful slaves, the places being marked 
 by wooden crosses. I heard strange stories afterwards 
 from others, as to the treatment of slaves here in former
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 49 
 
 times. Another walk was with Dr. Fallet, when our 
 subjects of converse were arrangements about schools, the 
 church, Praslin, &c. Mons. Dubois, the President of the 
 recently-formed ' Association Protestante de Bienveil- 
 lance,' called, and I spoke much with him on the ad- 
 vantage which, under God's blessing, may accrue from 
 such associations. 
 
 " Mrs. Ryan and I visited the schools : 42 girls were 
 present. They read John iii. nicely, and answered ques- 
 tions well. Their singing was very soft and harmonious ; 
 for which, I afterwards found, they were indebted chiefly 
 to the frequent instruction given them by Mrs. Griffiths. 
 The boys, numbering 30 or 31, read the same chapter, 
 not quite so well; but a much larger proportion had a 
 little knowledge of geography. We looked over the 
 library, which has several copies of a few good books and 
 tracts, and a few large Bibles. The Register for this 
 year shows that the books and tracts are fully circulated. 
 I should state here, that the emplacement of oui* buildings 
 is rented from a Romanist, at twenty dollars a-month. 
 On entering by a wooden gate from the road which skirts 
 the sea, the first building on the left is the Boys^ School- 
 room ; some thirty yards farther on is the Chui'ch-room ; 
 on the left, the Girls^ School; and a little farther on 
 the Yestry, which is also the library. 
 
 " In the evening Captain Wade took us by a walk 
 round part of the hill, beginning by the bamboo arches, 
 up through the Kiug^s Garden, and round to the flag- 
 staff, by a beautiful descent on the eastern side of the 
 
 E
 
 50 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 hill. Cinnamou-groves, many betel-nut creepers, a clove 
 plantation in an elevated dell, valleys full of trees, peaks 
 2000 feet high, the sea, the islands — all, at different 
 parts, opening to the view. 
 
 " Tuesday, Oct. 2\st. — I was out early this morning 
 vpith Captain Wade. We ascended to the ridge of the 
 hills, so as to get a view to the sea on the other side. 
 The whole walk was full of interesting objects and inci- 
 dents. Our track at first was over a begun road, at 
 present in a dangerous state from the blasted rocks and 
 excavations on it. Then came a foot-track leading to the 
 top of the hill, nearly, if not quite, three miles off -, from 
 which we saw a beautiful valley and plain on the right, 
 and in front down to the sea, and a wider road leading to 
 the mill of what had once been a flourishing sugar-plant- 
 ation. To the left, along the shore, is a beautiful little 
 bay, barred in from the sharks by a coral reef. Just 
 above the high-water mark is a single line of cocoas, and 
 across a calm blue sea the rugged and mountainous 
 island of Silhouette ; and the smaller one, called He Nord. 
 The ridsie was so far in advance of the mountain-ran2:e, 
 or rather of a curve of them on each side, that we had a 
 commanding view of beautiful dells on our right, and of 
 dark-green gorges on our left. The vegetation was most 
 luxuriant. At our feet on both sides were pine-apples 
 growing wild, the cocoa-palms waving in every direction, 
 and timber-trees filling the gorges and crowning the 
 mountains to their summits, except where the flames, 
 which are but too readily applied, have cleared the
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 51 
 
 ground ; leaving scattered and leafless trunks as the 
 only evidence that the forest once stood where the 
 manioc-root is now planted,, or the jungle overspreads 
 the soil. 
 
 "It was a good opportunity for seeing the people and 
 ascertaining the nature of some of Dr. Fallet's work. One 
 Negro whom we met^ expressed with the most joyous look 
 and hearty w^ords his satisfaction at seeing Captain Wade 
 again — ' Moi bien content voir mon commandant.^ We 
 met then^ or on the next walk we took there^ many coming- 
 in with fish or vegetables to the town, or returning with 
 their purchases from it. A foot-track diverging from the 
 larger one suggested the search for a caze, which other- 
 wise might not have been seen among the trees, or else 
 the loud and generally joyous accents of conversation 
 made us look and see one or more cazes among the cocoas 
 and bananas. The cazes are generally far superior to those 
 in Mauritius. A Negro w as standing near one of them, of 
 which the arrangements were really admirable. About 
 twenty feet from the cabin in which he lived was the kitchen 
 cabin, with all his implements for cooking. Near this was 
 a pig-stye, with two pigs in it ; not far off a poulaillier, or 
 enclosed place for fowls, out of which a goodly number 
 came to feed ; and a few paces farther on a clear well of 
 water, at the foot of a small rock, on which a moveable 
 stone was placed. The dwelling had a low verandah and 
 two apartments, in the inner one of which his wife was 
 lying ill. It was very dark, and I could not at first see 
 her, as I spoke to her on prayer and the mercy of God in
 
 52 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Jesus Christ; but I was thankful to find from her 
 replies that she entered into the meaning of what I said. 
 Now right and left, and in front, there are many cabins, 
 and groups of cabins, to which we have full access ; and 
 there is a little congregation in the bay to which I have 
 alluded, whom Dr. Fallet has visited often. For all this 
 service, however, he greatly needs the help of a Scripture- 
 reader or catechist. 
 
 " The sugar estate, and the road from it to the town, 
 had been made by an enterprising man of colour now 
 dead, and an unfortunate litigation among his heirs has 
 checked every thing. A superior carpenter^s shop stands 
 about half-way, near a marshy part of the ridge, where the 
 rice flourishes greatly. We were here supplied wdth cocoa- 
 nuts from the tree, very skilfully opened. In one of the 
 cazes an old man had different articles made from the 
 cocoa-tree to sell. A striking feature of the landscape, 
 which we found afterwards in the other islands, was the 
 large — some of them immense — boulder-stones, or rocks, 
 of granite, scattered on every side. We were quite ready for 
 breakfast on returning from this walk; the trade-wind 
 which greeted us on the eastern side of the hill, having a 
 most refreshing and even exhilarating effect. I think we 
 did not see the thermometer under 80°, nor above 8^°, 
 while we were there. The heat is great, but the air 
 delicious. 
 
 " At twelve Capt. Wade held a lev6e, at which I had 
 the opportunity of seeing the principal inhabitants, who 
 expressed much pleasure at his return ; the ceremony not
 
 TISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 53 
 
 being quite so formal as some others of tlie kind at which 
 I have been present. The captain and some of the officers 
 of the 'Frolic' were there. In the afternoon, we visited the 
 schools again ; L. and V. with us. We heard the younger 
 girls read, and Mrs. Ryan gave pincushions to them all. 
 To the boys I could only promise three Prayer-books, and 
 hold out the hope of a general distribution of prizes soon. 
 "We do feel most grateful when we have the opportunity 
 of bestowing the gifts, which our dear friends at home 
 have sent us, on such as these, and thus make them glad 
 and encourage them in what is so conducive to their pre- 
 sent and future good. We called on Madame Griffiths 
 afterwards, and I wrote out ' The Happy Land,' ' Joy- 
 ful, joyful,' ' I think, when I read the sweet Story of old,' 
 &c., in the hope that, although she is a French lady, she 
 may teach the girls those beautiful hymns. How delight- 
 ful it would be to hear a group of them singing, under the 
 shade of their waving palm*, the very same words which so 
 many thousands of English children in town and country 
 now sing so often ! On the other hand, I often felt during 
 the course of the evening sen'ice at the church, how de- 
 lightful it would be if the practice adopted by Dr. Fallet 
 were known and acted on in England. At the close of 
 the prayers, after the hymn, he named the verse at which 
 they left off in the preceding week, and immediately on 
 his doing this several boys stood up. He called on one 
 of them to repeat the passage ; it was in Luke vii. Then 
 another ; and, to my delight, I saw young men and women,
 
 54 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAll. 
 
 as well as the boys and girls, and even children of five 
 and a-half years of age, stand up from different parts of 
 the room to repeat the stoiy of the raising of the Widow^s 
 Son. He allowed as many as forty to repeat, as it was a 
 special occasion, and then gave a few brief explanations, 
 to which all were exceedingly attentive. Captain "Wade 
 was as much surprised and gratified as we were, at this 
 proof of the success with which the worthy pastor is 
 building up his flock on the word of God. 
 
 " Wednesday, Oct. 22nd. — Confirmation. At eleven I 
 held a Confirmation. The church was full, and ninety 
 candidates came forward, out of ninety-six accepted. Ill- 
 ness, unavoidable absence, and a foolish rejection of some 
 because they had not their tickets, which were taken by 
 the clerk, were the reasons why the full number were not 
 there. But how thankful I felt to see such a number 
 present ! After all that had been said about the scattering 
 of the flock since Mr. De la Fontaine^s departure, and the 
 relapsing of some to Popery, — to see some from all ranks 
 and various ages coming forward, while those who looked 
 on had been confirmed by the Bishop of Colombo, or 
 were Romanists observing us with eager attention ! Mons. 
 Dubois, the President of our Association, was one of the 
 confirmed. There were but few of the upper classes, and 
 nearly all were of African descent. It was a service full 
 of encouragement to me. I spoke to them on 1 Thess. ii. 
 12, — ' That ye would walk worthy of God, who hath called 
 you unto His kingdom and glory .^ Many circumstances
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 55 
 
 indicative of Providential guidance, and favourable in- 
 fluence from above, give a bright aspect to the condition 
 of this church. 
 
 "After the service Mr. Griffiths took us round the 
 ground allotted by the Government for our new church. 
 It is an excellent situation. After resting some time in 
 the middle of the day, I went up the hill again with 
 Mrs. Ryan and Y. J.; Captain Peyton and Mr. Flood 
 accompanying us. The view was the same which I have 
 described above, except that Silhouette had a mist resting 
 on the top of its majestic hills. The poor woman was 
 better. We met many of the people, and conversed with 
 several. Several of the Griffiths, and Dr. and Mrs. Pallet, 
 came in the evening. I looked at an account of the ope- 
 rations in Affghanistan, with more interest from knowing 
 that Captain Wade had been in the 13th all through the 
 campaign. 
 
 " Thursday, Oct. 2Srd. Praslin. — We started early 
 for Praslin, several from the island accompanying us. 
 The passage was very much longer than we expected. 
 Instead of landing by twelve or one o^ clock at the part to 
 w^hich we wished to go, we went round the farthest point, 
 lost time by having gone too much to leeward at first, 
 and did not even anchor till it was dark. "V^Tien we 
 arrived at the farthest point of Praslin, the view was very 
 animated and beautiful. On our right was the island of 
 La Digue, witk a long wide beach, a house nicely situated 
 among the trees, an immense towering boulder- stone, and 
 an abundance of trees. Beyond it, rather farther back,
 
 56 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the Island of Felicite, looking more rugged and bare in 
 some parts, but said to have the finest timber in these 
 islands. On our left was the most exquisite scenery, — a 
 beautiful bay formed by the small island, which is con- 
 nected with the end of Praslin by a coral reef, (and which 
 seemed from our position to be joined to the mainland), then 
 having the white beach under a low ridge, looking like an 
 isthmus, connecting the headland point wdth the mountain 
 range of the interior — a spur of which forms the opposite 
 side of the bay. Here the trees seemed to revel in luxu- 
 riance, and many of the celebrated coco-de-mer trees were 
 visible. As we passed on, we had the He Curieuse on 
 our right, and a deep bay of Praslin on our left. Here 
 we anchored, and I determined to go on shore, so as to 
 open a communication with the people at once. "VVe 
 landed in the dark, and made our way to the house of a 
 Mons. Adrien. He was away, but I made no scruple 
 to ask for his house. A police-sergeant w^ho had accom- 
 panied us, busied himself to get eggs, a messenger, &c. 
 The incident of the night was the return of the messenger 
 after midnight with the following reply, — 
 
 ' Je vous fais savoir que j'ai parle au monde pour etre 
 present pour demain 7heures du matin, pour la Confirma- 
 tion. Je suis, Mons., votre 
 
 * Serviteur obeissant, 
 
 ' Philippe Annette.' 
 
 " Having read this, I soon resumed the sleep which it 
 had interrupted. In the morning, when I saw the people
 
 VISIT TO THE SEYCHELLES. 57 
 
 assembled in their best clothing, the men on one side and 
 the women on the other^ to receive us, I was indeed veiy 
 glad ; and on learning that seventy-nine were prepared, and 
 that the largest proportion of them were there for Confir- 
 mation, I thanked God and took courage. The beautiful 
 little church had many spectators, besides the catechu- 
 mens, and the hymn was sung with a fervour which re- 
 minded me of other French services in very distant lands. 
 
 "After the service, we returned by a different path 
 from that which we had taken in the morning, that we 
 might see the coco-de-mer trees^ w^hich are peculiar to 
 these islands. The difficulties of oui* return were great, 
 as it was night. But for the guide, Amedee, I do not 
 think we should have accomplished it. The darkness in 
 some parts was such that I could literally see nothing. 
 Mrs. Ryan held the hand of the guide, who carried Vin- 
 cent, while I held hers. At one part of the road, when 
 we were in darkness in the valley, we could see the light 
 of the setting sun reflected on the leaves of the tall 
 coco-de-mer trees, but soon the only object of attention 
 was the road, 
 
 " Our guide was a fine spirited young man, who has 
 been a few voyages to India, and has now bought several 
 acres of land near a property where his fathers, or their 
 contemporaries, were slaves. We passed the ruins of the 
 residence in the morning. Flights of wide steps, remains 
 of large buildings, and the lines of those magnificent 
 avenues of trees, which French proprietors always like to 
 have near their residences, carried the mind back to a
 
 58 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 period not very remote, when cargoes of slaves supplied 
 the want of manual labour. The state of things which has 
 followed in the Seychelles is in several respects of gloomy 
 character. The proprietors, or many of them, are very 
 poor ; caste prejudice is still very strong, and work is done 
 by the labouring class in return for the permission to work 
 the ground for themselves on other days. The result is 
 an apathetic manner of life in both classes. The relaxa- 
 tion of morals connected with the oppressions of slavery 
 has left sad consequences behind. Popery cherishes the 
 French feeling of some classes, and imposes on the igno- 
 rance of others.^^ 
 
 I should have mentioned that Dr. Fallet has helped 
 the young man mentioned above, and that he seems to 
 me to take a very kind and paternal interest in all that 
 concerns the real welfare of his people in the different 
 islands. It was quite cheering to see how well they know 
 him in all parts of the islands, though he has not been 
 here more than fourteen months. 
 
 After the Confirmation we had gone to the house of a 
 Mons. Monna, a Roman Catholic proprietor, who was a 
 very attentive listener at the church. The family were 
 elegant and polite, and cordially hospitable; and on ask- 
 ing whether I could do anything for them at Mauritius, 
 a tale of sorrow accounted for the pensive appearance of 
 the mother, and caused her tears to flow abundantly. A 
 beloved son had left them eighteen months ago, and they 
 had but too much reason to fear that he had died of cholera 
 in the hospital at Calcutta. Rumours of this had reached
 
 THE ISLE OF LEPERS. 59 
 
 them ; but no parting message — nothing that belonged 
 to him^ had been conveyed to them. I promised to write 
 to Calcutta to inquire. 
 
 The adieux of the people were very earnest and 
 affectionate. Many had to walk to distant parts of the 
 island. The proprietress of the property in that bay 
 which I described as on our left when we rounded the 
 island^ was rather in a hurry, because she had to walk 
 •round a certain point just before the tide rose. I said I 
 would see her if we could, as I wanted to see the coco-de- 
 mer trees, and a friend had asked Mrs. Ryan to bring one 
 if possible. Before we left, she sent a servant with a fine 
 young tree, and a large nut of the right kind. The 
 catechist presented me, in the name of the parish, with a 
 bundle of tortoise-shells — a very acceptable present, so 
 appropriate to the place, and so heartily given, with a 
 graceful regret that they had nothing better. 
 
 He Curieuse ; the Isle of Lepers. — As soon as I found 
 that a visit to this place — the hospital-island to which 
 all lepers are consigned by the Mauritius Government — 
 was practicable, I determined to go. We returned from 
 Praslin too late on Friday night to visit it then, and 
 therefore on Saturday, the 25th, we rowed past the ship 
 to it, and secured time while the sails were being 
 hoisted, the anchor weighed, &c. 
 
 Our Praslin guide, and the catechist Phihppe, accom- 
 panied us. We landed on a beautiful beach of white coral 
 sand, washed by waves of the clearest crystal. The palms
 
 60 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 touched the high-water mark, and^ with other trees, formed 
 a beautiful grove along the plain, which was terminated 
 by a steep hill. To the left was the avenue leading to the 
 house of the superintendent, Mr. Forbes, who received us 
 on the shore, and led us to it. The house is spacious and 
 airy, and well situated for the purpose of inspecting and 
 managing the two lepers^ camps. Mr. Forbes was ex- 
 tremely civil and obliging, and seemed thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with and interested in the sad charge confided to* 
 him. I visited each caze, or cabin, in the two camps, or 
 spoke with the inmates; and as the superintendent said it 
 would be troublesome for many, and impossible for some, 
 to be brought together, I endeavoured to speak to them 
 apart — a solemn and yet not cheerless work. The first 
 we came to was a man whose hands and feet were nearly 
 gone, through the effects of the leprosy ; but he did not 
 seem so thoroughly broken down as some whom we saw 
 afterwards. His commodious caze was clean ; provision 
 of various kinds around him ; materials for fishing-rods, if 
 I remember right, and a little garden : but the appearance 
 of the man was in many respects most sad to look upon. 
 With him, as with most of the others, I spoke on Matt, 
 xi. 28, — " Venez k mois vous tous qui etes fatigues et 
 charges et je vous soulagerai.^' The next was named 
 Prosper. He had been highly commended by Mr. Forbes, 
 as the only one who could read or write. He bore deep 
 marks of the disease ; and one symptom which I observed 
 in him more than in most, was a frequent rolling of the 
 eye-balls. He is the dresser of wounds of the establish-
 
 THE ISLE OF LEPERS. 61 
 
 ment^ and all were struck with the neatness of his little 
 garden. To him I spoke of the consolations of God^s 
 word^ and found that he most heartily responded. I pro- 
 mised him a Bible. He thanked me^ and asked if I would 
 kindly add, " quelques pamphlets et un livre de service." * 
 His expressions led me to ask him whether he had had 
 these books in his possession before, when he said 
 "Yes;" that Mr. De la Fontaine had given him some; 
 that he had read them to the others ; but that " le Pere 
 Theophile les lui avait arraches tons." I confess that I 
 felt exceedingly indignant when I saw this poor leper, and 
 heard him deploring a loss which no man on earth ought 
 to have the power to inflict on one of the subjects of 
 Queen Victoria. The honest faces of the sailors around 
 me responded to my words as I denounced this heartless 
 conduct on the part of an Italian priest towards a forlorn 
 sufferer in that remote place. On my return to Mahe, I 
 wTOte on the fly-leaf of a good-sized French Bible, — 
 
 " Donne a Prosper de Tile Curieuse, 
 
 par I'Eveque de Maurice, 
 
 au nom de la Societe pour la 
 
 Propagation des Connaissances Chretiennes de Londres, 
 
 Ce 26 Octobre, 1856. 
 
 ' Sondez les Ecritures.' 
 
 Exhortation de Jesus-Christ. Jean, v. 39." 
 
 I trust this conduct will not be repeated by Pere 
 Theophile. 
 
 * Mr. Forbes said that the " livre de service," or liturgy, 
 would be particularly valuable, as he reads the Burial Service 
 over the poor lepers when they die.
 
 62 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 The next was a woman, who had heen fourteen years in 
 bed. The ladies were not permitted to see her. Indeed 
 the sight was very frightful. The hands so burnt together 
 by the disease that in one of them there was what looked 
 like the the thumb bent down, and forced out between the 
 little finger and the next, and having the nail on it, while 
 all the rest was a mass of flesh. " From the sole of the 
 foot to the crown of the head, wounds and bruises and 
 putrefying sores.^^ The coffin, which is kept ready made 
 in every cabin, seemed peculiarly, though sadly, appropriate 
 in hers. It was a very, very solemn scene. Poor thing ! 
 she responded softly and mournfully, but yet confidently, 
 to what I said about the presence of the Saviour, and the 
 benefits of prayer, and the joys of heaven. 
 
 A blind woman, attended by her god-child ; an aged 
 man, almost an idiot, and a woman, attended by their 
 children and a grand-child j a youth, born of leprous 
 parents, who had been discharged, and then sent back un- 
 mistakably infected; an old woman, who begged me to 
 get her sent off (her hands and feet were nearly gone, but 
 the disease had not been active lately) ; some men who 
 seemed prostrate, and others who were sturdy in strength 
 and appetite, though the disease was in them ; and several 
 Creoles, uninfected as yet, seeming very passive and gentle, 
 but ignorant of almost everything, were the chief objects 
 of interest afterwards. How often we recurred to the 
 scene ! What an impressive lesson of thankfulness for 
 health ! What an explanation of Lazarus ! AVhat an 
 illustration of sin !
 
 THE ISLE OF LEPERS. 63 
 
 I have spoken to Dr. Fallet and the catechist about a 
 more frequent visiting of this island. 
 
 On leaving Curieuse, we saw the captain^s boat (the 
 whaler) steering for it from the ship. Captain Wade was 
 in it. Being a much lighter boat than ours, it was rowed 
 back, so that they reached the ship at the same time that 
 we did. All sail was set. A canoe came off from the 
 shore for Amedee (the guide) and Philippe (the cate- 
 chist). We weighed anchor, and returned by the opposite 
 passage to that by which we had come; thus getting a 
 view of the whole island, and of the islets near. A cha- 
 racteristic feature of the scenery was the canoe drawn up 
 on each white beach, not far from the house ; this being 
 the only means of conveyance from one part of the island 
 to the other, as well as from the smaller islands to it. 
 The intricacy of the passage with a head-wind gave an 
 opportunity for frequent tacks, and the skilful and quick 
 working of the ship was admirable. 
 
 It had been my intention to visit La Digue, where 
 there are also Protestants, and, if possible, Pelicite also ; 
 but it was impracticable. Though I landed at Praslin in 
 the dark, the moment we could do so, and visited Curieuse 
 while the ship was getting under way, I could not 
 secure any time for more. Had we returned by our former 
 route, it might have been done ; but another engagement, 
 which had been put off for safety, as far as possible — 
 viz. to Saturday afternoon at five o^ clock — made us wish 
 to get back. We anchored at half-past five, and were 
 very late in meeting the engagement, which was this : —
 
 64 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Dr. Fallet asked me^ soon after I arrived from Mau- 
 ritius, whether I would accept an invitation from the 
 Societe de Bienveillance to dine with them. On my re- 
 plying that it would give me great pleasure, if Captain 
 Wade had made no other arrangements, he said that some 
 of the members had thought it might not be agree- 
 able to me to sit at table with " des noirs." (I mention 
 these things to show what the state of matters is.) On 
 hearing this, I told him that I should be particularly 
 gratified to meet them, and the time was fixed for 
 Saturday evening. Captain Wade and Mr. Griffiths 
 accompanied me. The first lieutenant and doctor of 
 the ship were also there. The place was an upper 
 story of a ship-building dock, very tastefully ornamented 
 with oranges and citrons, and festoons of moss. The 
 repast was a cold collation, and the speech made by 
 Mons. Dubois in French, after an English preface, 
 was very touching. The cordial welcome of their 
 Bishop, and the confidence which they expressed in 
 good results to come from this acknowledgment of their 
 brotherhood with the Church in Mauritius and Eng- 
 land, made me see in vivid colours how responsible the 
 charge is. In reply, I dwelt chiefly on the advantage 
 of organization for carrying out the good works of the 
 Gospel, and told them how I had been encouraged as 
 to their prospects by seeing their readiness to do what 
 they could for themselves. Hearing so much English 
 spoken, I spoke in English (but found next day that 
 several of them had assembled to hear it in French
 
 MAHE. 65 
 
 from Monsieur Dubois), and I then addressed them in 
 that language. 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 26th. — At eight I read prayers, and Dr« 
 Fallet preached. I went off to the ship for senice at 
 eleven, and preached there on Psalm c, dwelling chiefly 
 on ^^ all lands/^ and alluding to the ^^Frolic^s'^ recent 
 visit to Tristan d'Acunha on the one side of the Cape, 
 and now to the Seychelles, &c., on the other. In the 
 evening I preached on shore to a very crowded con- 
 gregation on John, V. 39, — " Sondez les Ecritures.^^ 
 Thus ended my public work, as we expected to sail 
 early the next morning. Very full of promise is the 
 field, and very suggestive of reasons for prayer, work, 
 and hope. 
 
 Monday, Oct. 27th. — I was rather uneasy and uncom- 
 fortable on rising, feeling that the heat was great ; but I 
 walked with Captain Wade to Dr. Fallet^s house, with 
 which I was much pleased. There is rich vegetation on 
 part of the way to it ; among the rest, beautiful coffee- 
 plants, Tvath large berries on them. On the way back 
 (the house is some distance to the east). Captain Wade 
 showed me a spot on which the parsonage might be built. 
 AYe called on Mr. Griffiths, and then went to say farewell 
 to the boys and girls who assemble at school at seven in 
 the morning; and then round by the Bazaar. A very 
 large assemblage of the people gathered in the church to 
 see us off. I had reported myself to the captain as ready 
 to leave at any hour on Monday morning ; being anxious 
 to get to Mauritius with as few Sundays absent as pos-
 
 66 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sible ; and we were all ready^ but eventually did not start 
 till next day, the paymaster's vouchers^ &c., not being col- 
 lected in time. 
 
 What was to be done ? We decided on going to the 
 He aux Cerfs, about four miles from Mahe, and were 
 taken thither in the cutter ; a strong pull for our fine 
 crew, the wind being ahead. A policeman piloted us, 
 and it being high water, we went over several reefs with 
 just water enough. The men did their work, as it all 
 seems to be done on board the " Frolic/' very heartily. 
 When we landed on the coral strand we w^alked to the 
 house, the only one on the island, while the sailors pro- 
 ceeded to the fine cocoa-nut trees to provide themselves. 
 A most interesting incident occurred before we left the 
 beach. An Indian came to me, and eagerly asked if I 
 were from Mauritius, and then told me that he had been 
 one of Mr. Rhenius's scholars ; that he greatly wanted a 
 Bible, &c. j and that there were about thirty Indians in 
 Mahe, to whom he could give Tamil books if he had them. 
 Here was a scattered seed ! He then guided us towards 
 the house, when the owner of the island, Mons. Deny 
 Calais, came to meet us. His mother, a venerable and 
 cheerful old lady of Indian origin ; his sister, who carries 
 on a baking establishment from which Mahe is supplied ; 
 his wife and five of his children, who have been educated 
 by an older brother, and who were confirmed in 1850, 
 made up a party such as is not often met with. We could 
 easily have spent a whole day with them on their beauti- 
 ful island, nearly all of which we could see from the top
 
 ILE AUX CERFS. 67 
 
 of one of the hills. He had just cleared^ by burning, 
 ground enough to plant 60_,000 cocoas, from which he 
 did not expect any profit for six years. Short grass like 
 that in England, and a herd of cows, made us all recal 
 park scenery at home. An immense turtle, forty-one 
 years old, which several of the party remembered as large 
 as a dollar, and many beautiful tortoises caught in the 
 neighbourhood, suggested other associations. Though 
 we were quite unexpected, (the young people having but 
 just returned from their fruitless visit to Mahe to see 
 us off), an excellent luncheon w^as soon spread, for which 
 we could not stay, as evening was drawing on rapidly. 
 Vt'e departed with two beautiful tortoises, sticks and 
 shells, &c., and with a most pleasing impression of the 
 courtesy and hospitality of our friends, to w^hom I 
 earnestly wished much blessing from above. Acci- 
 dentally, as it seemed, I found out that Mr. Calais had 
 had the chief management of the church at Praslin, and 
 heard from him several hints about the best plan for the 
 one which w^e want; which came just in time for the 
 details given me in the evening by Captain "Wade, about 
 the commencement of the fund. 
 
 Afterwards I arranged with Captain ATade, Mr. 
 Griffiths, &:c., as to the new organization of our School 
 Committee. Captain Wade, President; Mr. Griffiths, 
 Treasure!'; Dr. Fallet, Secretary: Messrs. Dubois and 
 Lefevre, other members. It was decided to meet on the 
 first Monday of every month, to apply at once for the 
 Government grant in aid, and to increase the salary of
 
 68 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Mr. Collie from 41. to 5/., and of Mrs. Knowles from 
 SI. to 4/. a-month. Mr. Butler, from a distant part of 
 Mahe, came to see us, and professed his willingness to 
 give a caze, and four dollars a-month towards a school, 
 in his part of the island. We received affecting visits 
 from three sisters, who came to thank me for kindness 
 to their mother, who died of cholera in Mauritius in 
 April last; one of them, particularly, was much over- 
 come. We had also another visit, still more touching, 
 from a venerable woman, very neatly dressed in black, 
 with her little granddaughter dressed in white, to thank 
 me for visiting the mother of the child, who had also 
 died of cholera at the same time, after having made 
 every preparation to return to her children and mother 
 at Seychelles. Many presents of fowls, &c., were brought 
 on this and the following day (Tuesday, October 28th), 
 when we left, I trust really thankful for the refreshing 
 visit. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the kindness of our hosts 
 throughout our stay. May much blessing rest on them, 
 and on their dear infant ! The earnest state of mind in 
 which the people seemed to be, was most encouraging. 
 There were 153 confirmed — a pledge of the interest of the 
 Church of England in these our brethren, received as 
 heartily as it was given : crowds listening to the word from 
 their pastor^s lips — the schools efficiently worked, as far 
 as the instruction which the teachers can give is concerned 
 — an organization created for raising funds for a church 
 — a tried resistance to Popery, which sent three priests
 
 INDIAN CHRISTIANS. 69 
 
 when our chaplain was goue^ and there was some show 
 of reason for the statement that we had given them up : 
 all these circumstances, combined with the lovely scenery, 
 the beautiful weather, and the interesting character of 
 the place and people, and, above all, with the hope that 
 I may be able effectually to help them, makes the 
 remembrance of our sojourn truly delightful. Now is 
 the tiaie to remember, to pray, and to act. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct. 2Sth. — ^lany came on board, as a son 
 of Mr. Griffiths was to accompany us to Mauritius. We 
 left at twelve, passed between St. Ann^s and He aux 
 Recifs, and saw Mahe till late by the light of the 
 burning timber on the mountains. 
 
 At Port Louis, on Wednesday, February 4, 1857, the 
 annual meeting of the Indian Christians^ Association was 
 held. This association was organised by Mr. Taylor, with 
 the view of combining the members of our Tamil and 
 Bengalee congregations in some practical efforts of Chris- 
 tian benevolence. A certain subscription constitutes 
 membership, and the objects of the Society may be 
 understood from what it has already done, aided to a 
 considerable extent by subscriptions from European re- 
 sidents : — Two widows and their children have been 
 protected and supported by means of the Society. A 
 Scripture -reader has been maintained and paid, whose 
 office is not only to read the Scriptures, but to go to 
 houses and instruct candidates for baptism. School- 
 fittings have been purchased for some of our Indian
 
 70 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 scliools; and large parcels of books, Praj^er-books, Pil- 
 grira^s Progress, &c. from India, have been paid for by 
 the committee, and sold among the members ; while 
 some of the larger books necessary for catechists were 
 given to them. 
 
 It was to commemorate the anniversary of this Society 
 that we met. I occupied the chair ; Mr. Bichard and 
 Mr. Vaudin were the only other Europeans there. The 
 weather was too rough for Mr. Hobbs to be present. It 
 was a very pleasant sight. More than fifty adults and 
 more than thirty young persons and children attended. 
 A hymn in Tamil was sung to a familiar tune; then 
 one in Bengalee ; next the Report was read, in Tamil by 
 Mr. Taylor, then in Bengalee by Charles Kooshalee. 
 Mr, Joachim, a highly respectable young man from the 
 Immigration Office, who has. always helped the work, 
 made a speech in Tamil ; after him Isaac, the well-edu- 
 cated native from Bombay, whom we rescued from coolie 
 labour, addressed the Bengalees in Hindoostanee, I believe; 
 Anandappen, an able schoolmaster, with spectacles, then 
 in Tamil; C. Kooshalee in Bengalee. Then I spoke, and 
 Mr. Taylor interpreted in Tamil ; after which I ventured 
 on speaking in Creole to the Bengalees, most of whom 
 could understand what I had to say. Mr. Joachim's 
 brother said a few words in Tamil, and James (the cate- 
 chist who came to me for baptism after his troubles at 
 Black River, his Indian name being Peersaib). The pro- 
 ceedings were terminated by another hymn in each lan- 
 guage, and by the Blessing, interpreted as I delivered it,
 
 iSrc^-: 
 
 Jlk- 
 
 4i_ 
 
 AfiF** 
 
 4^ '^4g^' 
 
 
 ^ -. 
 
 4' ^' " ^ 
 
 5^ THOMJlS CKURCTi, PLAll^'ES --VTI.HEHvIS 
 
 
 I 
 
 ,B:KTST CTrrjp.CK, M.A.TIE-BOUR'
 
 PETITE RIVIERE. 71 
 
 and responded to by a fervent 'Mmen/^ I felt a deep 
 and thankful interest in this my first meeting with the re- 
 presentatives of the Indian Church here. Oh, that we 
 may be enabled to be faithful, afi'ectionate, and single- 
 minded, in the endeavour to build up a Church for 
 Christ among these strangers in the land ! ^' God has 
 done great things for us already, whereof we rejoice; ^^ but 
 how much remains to be done ! It is delightful to know 
 that an Indian work is connected with each of our settled 
 districts. Mahebourg has its clergyman and its catechist. 
 Plaines Wilhems has a devoted and experienced missionary, 
 and a schoolmaster-catechist near him. Vacoas has a 
 schoolmaster-catechist and his wife, the latter a pupil of 
 Mr. Sandys of Calcutta. Bambou has an Indian school, 
 and so has Grand River. What we need is a mighty in- 
 fluence from above, to make our work a work of the Spirit : 
 and how soon might it grow, expand, and prevail all over 
 the island ! 
 
 March 24:th, 1857. — Last Friday week I had the satis- 
 faction of placing Mr. Leatherdale at Moka; then pro- 
 ceeding with Mr. Wiehe to Vacoas, where everything was 
 indeed in a most gratifying position; and in returning 
 home by Petite Riviere \'isited a school, where there were 
 eighty-three children present that day. In one apartment 
 was a Creole school ; in another was a Madras teacher, 
 with his little Tamulians; and across the yard, in another 
 place, were children receiving instruction from Bengalee 
 teachers. The children in an English school would 
 wonder at the sights in these schools, and at the sounds ;
 
 72 MAURITIUS AT^D MADAGASCAR. 
 
 one class singing the alphabet ; another spelling syllables 
 at the pitch of their voices ; others writing letters^ which 
 look more like a drawing of a house than a part of the 
 alphabet. After school^ the children (Indians, I mean) are 
 taken by their teachers to the different plantations. On 
 referring to the map, the following line of schools may 
 be seen : — 
 
 1. Port Louis: Boys near the Cathedral; girls and 
 little boys in Black Town, at the southern end of it. 
 
 2. Grand River : Indian school. 
 
 3. Petite Riviere, about three miles on : a Creole 
 school {i, e. French and English) ; Tamil and Bengalee. 
 
 4. Bambou : Creole and Indian schools. 
 
 5. Petite Riviere Noire : Creole school; French only 
 as yet. 
 
 6. Coteau Raffin, before the peninsula of the Mome. 
 
 7. Chamarel, at the top of the mountain. 
 
 8. Morne : French and English school; chiefly French. 
 On Friday morning, April 24th, I went with Captain 
 
 Gordon to visit the schools in the Morne district. Near 
 the Chamarel mountain a striking and sad contrast was 
 presented — one of the pupils of our school, a bright, well- 
 behaved, intelligent little fellow, answered, though not ac- 
 curately, yet very intelligently, to our questions. But near 
 the waterfall a poor woman and her two boys gave the im- 
 pression of gross ignorance and darkness, which was pain- 
 fully confirmed by our conversation with her. " Vos gar- 
 90ns vont a Pecole ?^' "N^a pas connais.^' Then followed 
 other questions to explain what I meant, but she knew
 
 THE FETE DIEU. 73 
 
 nothing about it. "Yous faire priere?^^ '^ N^a pas con- 
 nais/' '' Qui faire tout qd^V pointing to the mountains, 
 the sky, &c. " N^a pas connais, nous comme la bete 
 merae." I then repeated the first sentences of the Behef, 
 ^' Je crois en Dieu/'' &c. " N^a pas connais/^ " Notre Pere 
 qui es aux cieux/' '''N'a pas connais/^ Then came a 
 thrilling voice from a negro who had come up with us, 
 and was out of sight behind a tree. ^^Personne n^a pas 
 montre li." How strong her excuse ! and how heavy the 
 blame falling on others ! What chains could well be 
 worse than those which are left to press on the souls of 
 those whose bodies have been freed ! 
 
 June 17th. — The events of the past week have been of 
 a very chequered nature. Causes for sorrow and for joy 
 have been busily at work. I have felt much grief from 
 several circumstances attendant on the celebration of the 
 Pete Dieu. Last year the military band did not play, 
 because the celebration was on a Sunday. This year the 
 band went to the Thursday celebration, and also to the 
 procession on Sunday. This has a very bad effect, and 
 the crowds of people who attended, many of whom I met in 
 returning after the French service, and from visiting Mr. 
 Bichard and a sick child, showed how attractive such 
 sights are. The scornful derision with which many speak 
 of the whole ceremony is probably little known by those 
 who conduct it : Indians calling it the '^ Yamsey blanc ■/' 
 another describing it as very pretty, " tout badiner, 
 badiner, badiner; '^ another person thinking the display 
 could only do good to the cause of Protestantism ; and
 
 74 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 many expressions of that kind give a strange idea of the 
 state of the crowd who were present. Mr. Bichard^s se- 
 rious illness, the dangerous state of one of our most 
 promising Sunday scholars, and Mr. De Joux^s serious 
 accident, which has kept him in bed now ten days, all con- 
 tributed to make me feel how little we can look to things 
 around for comfort. But the consciousness that we are 
 doing God's work, the remembrance of the " much peo- 
 ple^' in the city of Corinth, and of the festivals which 
 grieved such men as preached the Gospel in Smyrna and 
 Antioch of old; and the thought of many who pray for 
 us and help us, were elements of comfort seasonable and 
 strong. And yesterday w^as a gratifying day. It was the 
 day on which the Governor and General Hay were to be 
 present at the distribution of prizes to our Vacoas 
 children. This was a pleasing ceremony, although very 
 heavy rains during the night, and dark masses of clouds 
 in the morning, seemed at first to preclude the hope of a 
 large gathering. We started early. Mr. Kelly, an officer 
 from the ^^ Megsera," and I, went on the bridge, where Mr. 
 Ptivington, another officer of the " Megsera,'' and Mr. A. 
 Wiehe, met us in a carriage. The carriage returned for 
 Mrs. Ryan and Alfred, and we walked on up the hill. 
 Leaving Alfred with Mrs. De Joux, we went on to the 
 Tamarind Falls, about three miles or more farther. The 
 road was very bad in some parts, and I walked more 
 than the distance, as I went back to look for the carriage. 
 Jean Sarradie's house and school, and the other school, 
 with all the locality, were thus brought under my direct
 
 VACOAS. 75 
 
 observation. We met people walking in from a long dis- 
 tance, because they bad heard there was to be service. 
 Every survey of the country tends to impress on me 
 more the value of Mr. De Joux's unwearied labours, and 
 the power which accompanies them under God^s bless- 
 ing. Having arrived at the house of Mr. Moon, we were 
 guided to the Tamarind Falls by one of his men. The 
 view was magnificent. We stood at the edge of a ravine 
 covered with fine timber-trees, at the foot of which the 
 Tamarind Kiver wound along — I should think, at least 900 
 feet below us. In front, rather to the left, the falls came 
 leaping and foaming, seven in number, out of what seemed 
 a primeval forest, which looked grey and venerable under 
 the heavy clouds which intercepted the light of the sun. 
 The view of the foliage of many kinds of trees in the hol- 
 low, and all up the sides, is very fine indeed. Such sights 
 are like a condensation of many books. 
 
 At Mr. Moon's we looked over the exquisite drawings 
 of island-flowers made by Mrs. j\Ioon, which are the ad- 
 miration of all who see them. Our hopes for the Indians 
 and other inhabitants of these parts gave a cheerful im- 
 pression to my mind, which enabled me more fully to 
 enter into the feelings with which the whole party 
 enjoj-ed these beautiful scenes. 
 
 On returning to Yacoas, we found Mr. De Joux in 
 bed for the tenth day. On the previous Sunday week, 
 after going to Bambou in the morning for the service there, 
 and holding a service at Yacoas in the afternoon, he was 
 on his way to visit a sick person, when his horse fell on
 
 76 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 its side, and Mr. De Joux was severely liurtj his leg being 
 bruised from the thigh-bone to the ancle. Finding that 
 there were adults gathered as well as children, we pro- 
 ceeded to the chapel, and held a service. I addressed 
 them on Eph. vi., endeavouring particularly to impress 
 on them the duty of praying for their devoted pastor. 
 The Governor and Lady Higginson, and Miss Louisa H., 
 came at the close of the service, and the children repeated 
 Scripture and the Catechism. Their clear, deliberate, ear- 
 nest manner, was very pleasing to witness, and Miss De 
 Joux^s class acquitted themselves admirably in finding the 
 references to the Catechism, and reading them simulta- 
 neously. We went back to the Vicarage and palisadoed 
 schools for the examination and distribution of prizes. 
 We found the girls' school taken possession of by a troop 
 of Indian children ; altogether there were between 150 
 and 160 present. The Indians were in small numbers, 
 from its being the day of one of their heathen festivities. 
 However, a little scholar, a proficient in music, was 
 brought forward, and went through various chants, beating 
 time in a way which excited the eager interest of all pre- 
 sent. To see the wonder of the less energetic Creoles, men, 
 women, and children, at the strenuous singing in measured 
 cadence of this little ragged boy, about seven or eight 
 years old, was not only amusing, but encouraging too. 
 The infusion of the Indian element will, I believe, stir 
 up the whole of the other part of the population. The 
 Creoles, again, sang very sweetly the hymns which they 
 have been taught. The girls' sewing, and the boys'
 
 GRAND RIVER CAMP. "TH 
 
 arithmetic and writing, were mucli commended. All of 
 them have improved in reading, and their attachment to 
 the school and to their teachers is evidently very strong. 
 I missed one of the best boys — quite a young man in fact, 
 and found he was so anxious for a Prayer-book that T 
 sent him one. He was kept at home by a large abscess in 
 the knee. Sewing implements for the girls who could 
 use them, and picture handkerchiefs for the others, Indians 
 and all, completed our list of prizes. I trust the hand- 
 kerchiefs will prove a strong attraction for the Indians. 
 Compulsion is about to be used by the Government — un- 
 avoidably, I believe ; but if we can gather them in other 
 ways it will be far better. 
 
 June SOth. — I have just returned from the Black 
 River Road, part of Mr. De Joux's district, Mrs. Ryan 
 and A. having accompanied me. We started at nine, to 
 give prizes sent by our English friends. In the school at 
 Grand River Camp there were thirty-six Indian children, 
 evidently impro\dng steadily, especially in w^ritiug and 
 arithmetic. Sad complaints, however, against the master 
 from some of the neighbours, with a petition from him- 
 self, stating that his conversion to Christianity is the cause 
 of it, obliged me to summon him to town for Friday, while 
 I praised the progress of the children. Driving on to 
 the tenth mile westward from town, we came to the Bam- 
 bou School-house, belonging to the Society for the Propa- 
 gation of the Gospel. There were sixty-two children. The 
 girls^ sewing, &c. was examined. The notes to '' God 
 save the Queen^' were well sung by a large class of boys
 
 78 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and girls, and I gave them all the Manchester handker- 
 chiefs with that tune. Mr. Hobbs and Mr. Taylor looked 
 over the books of the Creole boj^s, and examined the 
 Indians. Several of the members were assembled, and 
 after a few Collects, I read the opening verses of Psalm 
 Ixxviii., with remarks. We called on a French Protestant 
 family living near, and then on the Superintendent 
 of the Police Station, and then proceeded to Petite 
 Riviere on our way back. Here, there w^ere twenty-eight 
 Creoles and thirty Indians in the school, and three out- 
 side promised by their mother for the school. The teacher 
 of English and music for that school and Bambou, five 
 miles apart, is one of our not very hopeful normal pupils 
 of last year. Now, he is bright, energetic, and successful — 
 teaching us not to give any one up too soon. 
 
 I have thus, within a fortnight, seen 320 children 
 actually gathered in these two groups of schools. Oh, 
 that I could see every other part of the island even thus 
 supplied ! 
 
 Aug. Wth. — Four aged ex-slaves, who have not re- 
 ceived the relief which they should have done, came to me by 
 agi'eement yesterday to receive their first monthly allow- 
 ance of a dollar. One of them was at least seventy-three 
 years of age, and another was so infirm that he did not 
 arrive till long after the other three were gone. I had 
 the three in to prayers, and their outstretched necks 
 and eager answers, when I questioned them on the pas- 
 sage, John xiv., showed how accustomed they were to such 
 teaching. This class is rapidly dying off, and there is
 
 VACOAS. 79 
 
 something peculiarly touchiDg in the thought of the light 
 of the Gospel cheering the evening hours of days which 
 began with so much oppression and sorrow. 
 
 Aug. 12th. — This mornings another old man came 
 with a paper, respecting a friend of his w^ho cannot w^alk, 
 so that six are now on our list for the monthly pittance of 
 a dollar. As far as their strength goes, they still cultivate 
 a little maize. A sick man has recently sent for me, who 
 is dying in one of the Negro cazes ; so that gradually 
 my acquaintance with that part of the population in town 
 and country is becoming extensive. May it be really 
 beneficial ! 
 
 Aug. ISth. — This morning, old Prosper brought his 
 wife up to see " Madame.^^ They are still strong and able 
 to v/ork, and seem very happy. The joyous laugh with 
 which they both greeted an attempt at pleasantry on his 
 part, reminds me of this remarkable feature in Negro con- 
 versation. Mrs. Stowe often describes it : but I do not 
 think any one who has not witnessed and heard the *^ Ho ! 
 ho ! ho ! " can have any adequate idea of it. With some 
 it came a propos to almost anything. The old man became 
 very fidgetty after a few minutes, because they had left the 
 caze " li tout seul ; " and " di monde capable venir vo- 
 leur moi.'^ The propensity to steal is a very sad evidence 
 of the degradation in which they have been left. 
 
 On Sunday morning, Sept. 30, I started with Mrs. 
 Ryan for Yacoas, to hold a Confirmation there. The little 
 church was very much crow^ded, and the necessity for a 
 new one was made veiy plain. I trust this object will be
 
 80 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 accomplished next year. There were sixty candidates, 
 just thirty of each sex; and many respectahle Romanists 
 looking on, and joining in the other parts of the service, 
 with their Prayer-books. It was very touching to see Miss 
 De Joux, who is blind, led up to the rails by two of those 
 whom she has guided in spiritual things ; and I think it 
 is not often that a young person coming to be confirmed 
 has the privilege of bringing so many of her own pupils in 
 religious knowledge to be confirmed with her. Another 
 very touching incident was the appearance of three 
 Chinese, one of them especially retaining all the appear- 
 ance of his countrymen : but there was a bright joyous- 
 ness about his look which was very delightful to see. I 
 felt much moved as I placed my hand on his head, and 
 prayed for his continuance in the right way unto the 
 heavenly kingdom. 
 
 There was a goodly number of communicants after- 
 wards, and it would be difficult to collect a more interesting 
 assembly within the precincts of a Christian church. 
 England, Ireland, Switzerland, Africa, Madagascar, India, 
 China, and Mauritius, were represented, either at the Con- 
 firmation or at the Communion afterwards. I felt truly 
 thankful on behalf of the friends who have so kindly 
 helped us, and felt a refreshing impression on my own mind 
 that all the anxiety of the work was far more than repaid 
 by such a sight as that. I can scarcely ever refrain, in 
 addressing them, from quoting the account of the in- 
 numerable multitude from "every nation" hereafter. 
 
 An interesting sight of another kind was the new
 
 VACOAS. 81 
 
 school-room^ wliich has been built for the Central School 
 at Vacoas^ of large dimensions^ open to the west and at 
 both endSj covered on the top^ and to the east. Black 
 boards are inserted between pillars made of crooked 
 branches of trees ; benches fixed in much the same 
 way; and the whole apparatus put up, room and all, 
 at an expense of a few dollars, by that most excellent 
 catechist, Jean Sarradie. He seems remarkably filled 
 with the wisdom which is from above. He has long 
 wanted a larger place for a church, and when he 
 heard there was to be one, he at once claimed the old 
 one for a hospital. His reasoning was this — (it is very 
 instructive as to the state of things), — " Sir, when a man 
 is very ill in one of those cazes, and you send me to mind 
 him ('pour entretenir li') for two or three days I can^t 
 look after others ; but when there is a hospital, we shall 
 have all such together under good care." His description 
 of one case which Mr. He Joux had despaired of was most 
 graphic and animated. After mentioning the heat of the 
 fever, the blackness of the tongue, &c., he said, in his 
 expressive Creole, "Jamais, Monsieur, ete mis dans sa tete 
 que cet enfant jamais echappe,'^ and yet, through God's 
 mercy, he got better. Sarradie, as I have mentioned 
 before, was once in the army of the Queen of Madagascar. 
 His idea about food and sleep, &c., is well worth putting 
 down. I wish I had his own words, but the thought was 
 this, — that God calls him now to serve Him in the body ; 
 and that if he does not take proper care of that, he will not 
 be able to do the service: consequently, he does take care 
 
 G
 
 82 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 SO long as God wants him. As for the black population 
 around, he considers that he has done enough among them, 
 and now he wishes to deal with some of the whites. He 
 says that they express much surprise, and he himself feels 
 it, at the fact that such an unlearned man, unable to read 
 French (he gives them a French Bible, and then the text 
 he wishes them to read from the Malegache Testament), 
 should be able to answer and convince them. They infer 
 that God must be with him, and he hopes and believes 
 the same. 
 
 Jan. 4iiky 1858. — "We had a striking instance this 
 morning of the power of simple faith in old Prosper, who 
 has been ill. His wife came to Mrs. Ryan for medicines, 
 and this morning he was at the house to have a prayer of 
 thanks to God, and thank Madame for her care. As I read 
 Psalm ciii. in French, in a catechetical way, his remarks 
 (there were three other Negroes present) were very touch- 
 ing and beautiful. On New-year's day we had sixteen 
 at family prayers. They came with little presents, and 
 received handkerchiefs, some of them with the Queen's 
 picture on them. Their intense gratitude to the Queen, 
 as their deliverer from slavery, makes them prize these 
 handkerchiefs immensely. The Scripture reading is in 
 the form of question and answer, and Prosper is a very 
 expressive commentator. His description of a good man 
 sleeping ; and the angels above him talking to each other 
 about him as a servant of God ; and the discomposure of 
 Satan at such a scene, was most rich and touching. Also, 
 the knocking at the door when it was too late, and the
 
 PORT LOUTS. 83 
 
 test applied to false profession. All the others listen 
 like children. 
 
 On Saturda}^^ Jan. 16th, there was every appearance 
 of a hurricane. Mr. ]\Iason accompanied me to the 
 Harbour-mastei^'s office, and Captain Wales kindlj^ pro- 
 raised to see to Mr. Bichard, who was exposed to some 
 danger in the Floating Church. We returned in the 
 wind and rain, and were taken up by Mr. Antelme, who 
 had a solids carriage, drawn by two powerful mules. 
 Every part of the house was closed up, and the wind 
 and rain blew and beat against it very fiercely for some 
 time. In the morning there was a lull. Heavy masses 
 of clouds were hanging over the mountains, the river 
 was sweeping by with a full red tide, and I went to the 
 shore to see how the ships had fared. Four only 
 were left at the Bell buoy, the rest had gone to sea. 
 In the evening, just as I was going to begin the 
 service, a message came that an Inspector of Police 
 was dying at Cassis. In a very drenching rain I went 
 to the place after service, and, leaving the carriage in 
 the road, followed a policeman, who took one of the 
 lamps, along the by-road leading to the house. I was 
 very thankful that the weather held up just at that 
 moment, for the first step I took from the high road was 
 into coral and water, and many a similar step I was com- 
 pelled to take on the way there and back before I rejoined 
 the carriage. The difi'erent temperature of water here 
 and in England prevented the bad results which might
 
 84 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 have followed this after the heat of preaching. On arriv- 
 ing at the house, a sad spectacle presented itself. In the 
 verandah and front rooms were several Malabars, men, 
 women, and children, looking wild and frightened : from 
 the inner room, where the sick man was lying, came 
 sounds of prayer in French, from an aged Creole, while 
 two or three other men of colour were standing round, 
 and I heard the voice of the dying man, calling loudly in 
 English, " Mercy, mercy ! '^ His poor wife was in a state 
 of distraction ; her son, a lad of thirteen, trying to appease 
 her ; and an old woman of strange appearance was giving 
 trouble to all by her incoherent sounds and actions. I 
 went into the inner room, spoke for some time to the 
 sick man, and then prayed with him, all around kneeling 
 down. He seemed very much soothed, spoke very ration- 
 ally, and I left him w^th his hands closed in the attitude 
 of prayer. The next morning w^hen I called he w^as alive, 
 but had not spoken since I had left, and the poor wife 
 spoke of my unexpected appearance among them the night 
 before as if it had been an angel from heaven. It was 
 one of those occasions in which the privilege of doing 
 much good at small cost is given by our Heavenly Father. 
 The comfort to the sick man, the impression on the 
 Creoles and Malabars from seeing one of his own people 
 coming to him, the check given to that strangely- excited 
 old woman, and the arrangement of one or two other 
 matters, prepared them for the visit of a brother-officer of 
 the police, to whom I sent a message on my return home-
 
 PORT LOUIS. 85 
 
 wai'dsj and wlio came with his wife, and provided for 
 every comfortable attention to the sick man till his 
 death at half-past three on the Monday afternoon. 
 
 After a while the rain began again, and it can only 
 be imagined by those who have seen tropical rains when 
 hurricanes are near. As soon as the news could reach us 
 from Bourbon we found that they had felt the centre of 
 the storm, and suffered far more than ourselves. Three 
 large buildings and a Leproserie are reported to be laid 
 flat on the ground; of seven bridges in one part, four were 
 utterly demolished, and three much injured; 30 bodies 
 washed on shore; 40 persons killed by the falling of cazes 
 or by the floods in another part ; a large new ship dis- 
 masted of its three masts, and out of thirty-two vessels 
 driven to sea, only eighteen had been heard of a week 
 after : such are some of the facts which show how fearful 
 the weather must have been with them. 
 
 We moved into our new house on Saturday, Jan. 23rd. 
 I was up at half-past four on Sunday to be quite ready 
 for the military ser\dce, and on returning at night was 
 very tired, having taken part in four services and preached 
 three sermons. The heat had been most oppressive, and 
 the fannings of all parties, ladies and gentlemen, dui'ing 
 the sermon in the morning, more universal than I ever 
 remarked before. After two or three vain attempts to 
 sleep, I was just dozing, when the impression of being in a 
 large stone building, somewhere in England, and feeling 
 it crashing and tumbling about me, seized me, all at once, 
 so strongly that I was expecting to be crushed ; when
 
 86 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the noise awoke me, and I heard a truly awful peal of 
 thunder. I had distinctly seen the lightning. L. rushed 
 in from her room, exclaiming, " What a dreadful clap of 
 thunder ! " V. awoke and screamed with fright ; while A. 
 alone slept through it ; and I thought of the words, '' calm 
 as a child's repose," asT saw him sleeping so peacefully 
 amid the flashes of lightning and the roar of the thunder; 
 for the storm continued some time, though nothing 
 equalled the first peal. The next day I found that at 
 Pamplemousses, at Grand River, at Fort George, and in 
 the harbour, and in many points included by these, the 
 same sensation was felt which we experienced — that of 
 immediate nearness, which shows how tremendous the 
 electric discharge must have been. Old residents in the 
 tropics afterwards said they had never before heard such 
 a crash. '^ It is the glorious God that maketh the 
 thunder ! " 
 
 April 27th. — Yesterday a special call took me to the 
 Hospital, which I have not generally visited on a Monday, 
 and I saw much to awaken feeling there. One vfard had 
 many patients afflicted with scurvy, w^ho reminded me 
 powerfully of the descriptions of the early discoverers. In 
 one of the ships, only three men out of seventeen were 
 available for work when they got here; another week 
 would probably have seen them drifting at the mercy of 
 the winds and waves. As I was leaving that ward, an 
 Indian came from another to speak to me, and a well- 
 known friend, formerly master of a school at Grand River; 
 and I found another convert very near the last hour, with
 
 POKT LOUIS. 87 
 
 many poor^ old^ and debilitated ex-slaves. From thence 
 I went to the women's ward, where an aged Englishwoman 
 is in great prostration of body, and exceedingly deaf, but 
 e\ddently deriving light and comfort from her Bible and 
 good books, with which she is well supplied. Near her 
 was a poor creature whose language no one understands, 
 brought here by a ship driven away from some of the 
 South Sea Islands by stress of weather, and left here sick. 
 She has recovered of the sickness, but is now pining away 
 from grief. I hope I have found a way of tracing out 
 her history, and the island she comes from. This may, 
 with God^s blessing, save her life. 
 
 Before I left home this morning I showed Prosper the 
 pictures of '^ Grande Terre,^^ as they call Africa, in Dr. 
 Livingstone^s book. He entered with great zest into the 
 subject, and seemed thoroughly to appreciate the love of 
 the Missionary in leaving his home to go through all 
 those journeys and hardships for the good of others. 
 June 4:th. — In returning to Port Louis from the Morne, 
 I found there had been much excitement among the In- 
 dians about the idolatrous Pete Dieu procession. ^' ^Vhy 
 do you teU us we are wrong ?^^ they triumphantly asked 
 our catechist; "see, they are doing just the same.^^ 
 "Promener le bon Dieu,^^ is the dreadful expression by 
 which they designate the ceremony. How terrible the 
 thought, that what is called a branch of the Christian 
 Church should hold up such a stumbling-block before the 
 Mohammedans and Hindoos ! It is a gi'eat relief, however, 
 that this year the band was not permitted to play, so that
 
 88 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the apparent encouragement of the Government was not 
 shown. 
 
 At the Civil Hospital a most touching incident took 
 place. The poor woman from Byron's Island is sinking 
 fast. I went and stood by the mattrass on which she 
 was lying, and touched her forehead. She seemed to 
 struggle to recover consciousness ; then seized my hand, 
 and afterwards my feet, and pointed upwards, speaking in 
 the most earnest and pitiful accents. But I could not 
 understand one word. All I could do was to clasp my 
 hands as in prayer, and look upwards. Oh ! how solemn 
 is the duty which rests upon the Christian Church to pray 
 that labourers may be sent into every part of the harvest, 
 that God may give the word, and that great may be the 
 company of the preachers.* 
 
 August \Qth. — Last week Captain Harmer arrived, 
 and brought a parcel, with several sets of Bibles and Tes- 
 taments, and some bags, pinafores, &c., for our schools, 
 from the classes at Edge Hill, and one from St. Stephen's. 
 I always receive these with peculiar pleasure ; they look so 
 like fruit of Christian instruction ; besides conveying the 
 assurance of affectionate remembrance of our work. I 
 was led to frame many wishes for the time when such 
 
 * An investigation of this case brought out the painful fact, 
 that about sixty natives had been kidnapped in Byron's Island, 
 and taken to Reunion, to work in the plantations. The poor 
 creature mentioned above died of grief. Her last request, made 
 to me through a sailor who knew her language, was, that after her 
 death her head might be sent to her father !
 
 PORT LOUIS. 89 
 
 help may be sent from children in Mauritius to those of 
 Madagascar or East Africa, or some of the many islands 
 connected with us. God gi-ant that it may indeed be so ! 
 
 Prosper is now on our ground. Such a remarkable 
 character ! There was an interesting scene this morning 
 at family prayer. Fifteen Negroes were assembled in our 
 verandah, listening with the most profound and calm 
 attention to descriptions of the New Jerusalem, from Rev. 
 xxi. xxii., and to the invitation for all to come ; and after- 
 wards Prosper, who is greatly respected by them all, was 
 heard conversing most earnestly with them about Mr. 
 Vaudin, in whose ministrations they expressed their great 
 delight : and from a little distance I could hear him tell- 
 ing them that they must " prier Dieii,^^ " prier sans 
 cesse,^^ that He might send His Holy Spirit to make it all 
 effectual. 
 
 Yesterday the Sabbath tranquillity was disturbed : 
 first, by the firing of guns at the Romish Cathedral for 
 the Assumption of the Virgin ; secondly, by the firing of a 
 royal salute for Louis Napoleon^s birthday ; thirdly, by the 
 frightful procession of the Yamsey, which met me on my 
 return home from my work. Torches, men disguised as 
 tigers, and in other ways ; beating and fencing with long 
 sticks ; and shouts mixed with the beating of tom-toms, 
 made us feel we were not in a Christian land. The value 
 of the Romish Christianity of the poor Creoles of the 
 lower classes may be seen from the fact of their beating 
 the tom-toms for the poor heathens and Mohammedans at 
 the Yamsey ; which in this island seems to be a mixture of
 
 90 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 heathen and Mohammedan absurdities. In going through 
 the Epistle to the Hebrews^ I had arrived yesterday morn- 
 ing at chap. xi. 8-16 ; and the leading thought of those 
 verses^ "strangers and pilgrims on the earth/' was well 
 impressed on me in more ways than one. 
 
 Sept. 2hth. — Prosper is going on very steadily. 
 The other day, after expounding the passage about the 
 widow of Nain, at family prayers, I said to Prosper, just 
 outside the house, " That was a beautiful story, Prosper.^' 
 — " Yes j He felt great pity for her.^^ I thought it a very 
 beautiful reflection of his, and it was unexpected ; for 
 when I was reading, he seemed quite to raise himself up 
 at the words, " I say unto thee. Arise ;^^ and yet the Sa- 
 viour^s compassion had struck him more than His power. 
 How often the need arises in this world of sorrow for 
 imitating that sympathy, and what blessing attends the 
 exercise of it ! If those who are immersed in the tempt- 
 ations of luxury and grandeur, could only be made to 
 see what misery there is in the world to alleviate, and 
 what opportunities for doing good, what a change would 
 be produced ! 
 
 March 2Srd, 1859. — This rnorning three aged 
 Negroes were seated near the kitchen, two of them 
 old friends, who had been separated in early youth, 
 and re-united here. They spoke to me long ago of 
 a brother ; and last night they walked from Petite 
 Riviere to a place above where we are living, to 
 "dormir" near their brother; and this morning they 
 brought him to me to be taught the Lord^s Prayer,
 
 PORT LOUIS. 91 
 
 and the Belief, and the Commandments, and to be 
 baptized. The poor grey-headed nian_, as much a pagan 
 in every sense as if he had remained near the African 
 lake all his days ! Prosper was very eager about him, 
 and began at once teaching him the Lord^s Prayer. 
 Prosper^s ideas of toleration are as sound as most of 
 his other views. When the brothers spoke of having 
 brought him to be made a Christian, Prosper objected 
 strongly to an5i;hing like compulsion. " X^a pas 
 force li. Demandez li si li voulait. Bon Dieu content si 
 coeur donne.^^ I asked the old man this morning how he 
 had recognised his youn2:er brother. He said that his 
 mistress used to send him to the Bazaar, and that one 
 day a boy called, " La mon frere.'-' But he added, " Moi 
 ete fin oublie \i;'' then, " li cause semble moi, nom maman, 
 nom mon pere, et moi connais.''^ There were two others 
 at our prayers this morning from an entirely opposite 
 part of the island, Pointe aux Piments, not yet Christians 
 even by profession.
 
 92 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES 
 AND CHAGOS ISLANDS. 
 
 May, 1859. — Ha\4ng received letters from Mahe, 
 which announced the completion of the church for the 
 purposes of divine worship^ I was anxious to seize the first 
 opportunity of going to consecrate it, as well as to per- 
 form the duties of inspection, and to revisit the work which 
 had presented so many features of encouragement in 1856. 
 The Governor was about to send a Commission of Inquiry 
 among the remoter dependencies of Mauritius, and it was 
 arranged that I should proceed in H. M. despatch gun- 
 boat " Lynx/' with the Commissioners, Captain Berkeley 
 and Mr. Caldwell. The limited accommodation precluded 
 the practicability of making the same happy arrangements 
 as last time, and it was therefore decided that I should go 
 alone. I looked forward to the excursion with compara- 
 tively depressed feelings, and felt much the need of that 
 prayer about which I preached on the Sunday evening 
 before I left, from Rom. xv. 30, — " Now I beseech you,
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 93 
 
 brethren^ for the Lord Jesus Christ^s sake, and for the 
 love of the Spirit^ that ye strive together with me in your 
 prayers to God for me." 
 
 Monday, May 2nd, was the day fixed for our depar- 
 ture, and I read Psalm cxxi. with the servants and others 
 in the verandah, in Erench, and gave them directions 
 about their conduct while I should be away. Many came 
 to say " Good-bye " on board the ship, but the wind fall- 
 ing light, our departure was put ofi" till the next morning 
 at eight, and veiy thoroughly I enjoyed the cool refreshing 
 rest of another night at Failles. I thought it better to 
 come in alone at that hour, and we started in tow of the 
 tug-steamer, Mr. Wiehe, Colonel Cockburn, Captain 
 Wales, and Mr. Mason coming out as far as the Bell buoy. 
 It was very pleasant to have Failles in sight so long, and 
 to consider the mercies vouchafed to me there. Our 
 party on board the ship consisted of Captain Berkeley ; 
 Mr. Medlycott j j\Ir. Cooke, master; Dr. Hunter; Mr. Fitt, 
 midshipman; Mr. Morgan, master's assistant; !Mr. Fierson, 
 captain's clerk; Mr. Hill, engineer; Mr. Hart^ gunner; 
 Mr. Caldwell; Mr. Maule, R.A.; Mr. Marindin, R.E. 
 Nothing could have been more kindly and pleasant 
 than our intercourse during the eight weeks we were 
 together. I sufi'ered very severely from sea-sickness, but 
 found that the swinging bed in the captain's cabin was 
 the means of giving me a quiet night. 
 
 Wednesday, May 4M. — Long before daylight I had 
 a most refreshing bathe. Mr. CaldwelFs excellent coffee, 
 prepared soon after daylight, was the prelude to many
 
 94 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 such scenes, when Mr. Medlycott, the officer of that watch, 
 generally joined us, after watching with me from the 
 connin2:-stool the crlorious risinc: of the sun. I felt much 
 
 o o o 
 
 depression, not so much of spirits as of strength, these 
 days, and great in'itation of stomach and suffering from 
 sea-sickness. 
 
 This season is a very suitable one for recalling all the 
 mercies of my Heavenly Father, for looking at the events 
 of life in their relation to my duties ; and, while I count 
 up the treasures which have been so bountifully given to 
 me, to ponder well all the obligations under which I lie to 
 Him who loved me, and gave Himself for me. Many 
 ways indeed there are, of proving the truth of my grati- 
 tude in the openings for work in this diocese. 
 
 Thursday, May 6th. — A much quieter night. I had 
 conversation during some of the still hours of darkness 
 with Captain Berkeley, chiefly about the Kroomen, and 
 their useful qualities and habits. The sunrise was very 
 magnificent, and I felt how suitable the Morning Hymn 
 was, as the rays of light struck the tops of the rolling 
 foaming waves. 
 
 UovT/MV T£ zufMaruv avrj^idfMov ysXacifMa. 
 " The many-twinkling smile of ocean." 
 
 The brightness into which the morning star vanished re- 
 called the beautiful similitude about a good man^s death, 
 '' Like the morning-star that never sets, but fades away 
 into the light of heaven.-'' I find a very traveller-like sen- 
 tence in my diary to-day, — " Delicious cup of coffee from
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 95 
 
 Mr. Caldwell." What a trifle to put clown^ but what real 
 comfort after the exhaustion of sea-sickness ! 
 
 I was beginning to feel exceedingly unhinged till to- 
 da)^^ when the sickness abated^ though the dulness of im- 
 paired energ)^ is veiy heavy on me. I have been reading 
 in Isaiah all these days, and find the descriptions and the 
 promises very full of comfort and blessing. 
 
 Friday, May (Sth. — We had a run of 186 miles. I 
 was very much struck this morning with the description 
 of the river of healing waters in EzekiePs vision^ and 
 derived vei*y gi'eat encouragement from it. Last night 
 I read a great part of the Book of Esther^, and dwelt in 
 thought on the providential interposition of God. To- 
 day has been one of the most thrilling days in my life. 
 Before noon we made out Agalega. A tremendous 
 surf was raging on its southern end, and all along a 
 great part of the south-western coast. We stood in to 
 a bay where the land retreated veiy considerably^ in the 
 hope of finding smooth anchorage. My fixed purpose 
 was to go on shore, and I went down to pack up the 
 books and tracts which I wanted. I was expecting to 
 hear the rattle of the anchor-chain, but on coming up 
 found two boats had set ofi" to get soundings ; the whaler 
 with Mr. Cook, Mr. Marindin, and foar men j the galley 
 with Mr. Hart and six men ; and we were standing off 
 to sea. We soon went round, and on nearing the shore, 
 it was thought two boats were seen; but it was soon 
 ascertained there was only one, and the Captain made 
 out, as he told me privately, that the ensign was reversed
 
 96 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 (a signal of distress), and a shirt on the top of a boat- 
 hook. The cutter was despatched, under the charge of 
 Mr. Medlycott, to meet the galley, and it was ascertained 
 that there were more than her own crew on board. Were 
 they all there ? It was a most anxious question. When 
 the cutter reached the galley, she proceeded towards the 
 shore, and the galley came to the ship. There were 
 twelve on board, but not Mr. Cook. As soon as we could 
 hail the boat we inquired for him, and to our intense 
 relief it was found that he had gone back in the cutter 
 for the capsized whaler. It appeared that in less than 
 an hour from the time of their leaving the ship, a puff of 
 wind had upset the whaler, while rising on a wave. Two 
 of the four men could not swim. The boat, sunken 
 below the surface of the water, rolled about, and slipped 
 from under them when they tried to stand on it. An 
 oar was lashed to the bow of the boat to steady it. Mr. 
 Marindin swam off for the ensign, which was floating 
 away, and it was held up to attract notice. One of the 
 young men who could not swim laid hold on Mr. 
 Marindin, promising to do so softly. Mr. Marindin 
 thought he saw a shark, but very wisely said nothing 
 about it. Presently, after aborit three-quarters of an 
 hour, the galley passed back, most providentially, suf- 
 ficiently near to catch sight of the struggling men and 
 the whaler's ensign. They tried to tow the sunken boat, 
 but were obliged at last to let her go, and make for the 
 ship. The cutter afterwards brought her, and her first 
 movement, on nearing the ship, was to go right under
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 97 
 
 hev, emerging on tlie other side ; making tlie whole thing 
 palpably and visibly impressive to us all. It v»as delight- 
 ful to see the effect produced on the sailors by Mr. 
 Marindin's calm and resolute behaviour. '' That ^ere 
 soldier officer behaved like a brick/'' was their expression 
 of admii'ation. 
 
 It was with a thrill of tearful joy that I heard they 
 were all safe. Tearful, perhaps, because I was weakened 
 and depressed in strength; but when I thought of what 
 the sorrow might have been_, I felt thankful indeed that 
 the destruction had been averted. Being surrounded 
 by these young officers on the pre-vious days had veiy 
 forcibly recalled my days of pupils, and I was now 
 reminded of the wonderful escape of some of them, in 
 crossing from Guernsey to Alderney in an open boat, in 
 October 1841 ; amongst whom were the present Rector 
 of Alby, in Norfolk, the Rev. T. R. Govett; and the 
 Rector of Melling, in Lancashire, the Rev. J. R. Glaze- 
 brook. In that case, too, the coolness of one of the 
 men in the boat had much to do with the safety of the 
 others. 
 
 There were circumstances which made the deliverance 
 at Agalega very remarkable. Had I not gone down to 
 pack up, under the idea that they would soon anchor, 
 it is most probable that I should have gone in one of 
 the boats ; and had I proceeded to the shore, I\Ir. Hart 
 would not have been there to rescue the whaler. 
 
 It was with very deep satisfaction that I received 
 from Mr. Cook and ^Ir. Marindin the proposal to have 
 
 H
 
 98 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the men together to return thanks. The Captain most 
 readily gave his cabin, and I read some of the verses of 
 Psahn cxxiv. 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, S, — " If it had not been the 
 Lord who was on our side, now may Israel say .... 
 then the waters had overwhelmed us, the stream had gone 
 over our soul. Blessed be the Lord, who hath not given 
 us as a prey to their teeth. Our soul is escaped as a 
 bird out of the snare of the fowler : the snare is broken, 
 and we are escaped. Our help is in the name of the 
 Lord, who made heaven and earth, ^^ — and offered prayers 
 of thanksgiving. Several besides those who had been in 
 danger were there. 
 
 Saturday, Maij 7th. — AVe stood away during the night. 
 In the morning there was some difficulty in making the 
 land again. '^Ye proceeded to the north-west point, and 
 anchored a short time, and Mr. Caldwell went out in a 
 boat with Mr. Medlycott to look for a passage ; but there 
 was too much risk of injuring the boat. There were fear- 
 ful breakers on the reef near the pass. Towards nightfal 
 we stood off, and w^ent on, leaving Agalega. Some men 
 on the shore made signs as if for the boat to come in, 
 and then followed, apparently, a description by signs, of 
 the upsetting that would take place in the breakers. 
 I was very glad when the Captain communicated to me 
 his decision to proceed. He and the boat^s crew^ had 
 worked hard for a day and a half, and the shore was lined 
 with reefs. There is thick but low vegetation on the 
 island. The land air, and relief from suspense, I sup- 
 pose, enabled me to dine down-stairs for the first time,
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 99 
 
 and I slept exceedingly well. I hope in some other way 
 to get at the inhabitants of Agalega, who may be acces- 
 sible to our ministrations. 
 
 Sunday, May Sth. — This was a most lovely day. There 
 was a gentle,, favouring breeze, and we had service twice 
 on deck ; besides visits to the sick, and unpacking of the 
 library and lending the books. The Church Missionary 
 Intelligencers were (as on board the " Frolic'^) very accept- 
 able; also, Adams's Allegories were read with much in- 
 terest. My morning subject was Matt. vi. 9, '^ Our Father 
 which art in heaven :'' and the evening subject, Gen. 
 xxviii. 15, Jacob at Bethel. I had pleasant conversation 
 with many, and felt it had been a day of religious teaching 
 and preaching, and was very thankful for all the favour- 
 able circumstances attending it. 
 
 Monday, May 9th. — We had a fresh breeze in a squall, 
 and then calms. We made the island of Coetivy distinctly, 
 and came round the north-west point, a boat being sent 
 to communicate with the shore. After dinner we started, 
 but met the galley, reporting that they had seen no one 
 to speak to, though men were distinctly visible on a brown 
 hill* in full view of the ship. Tt afterwards turned out 
 that they were labourers returning from the other end of 
 the island to their habitation. It was a most lovely evening 
 scene from the ship's deck. The white coral strand, the 
 beautiful cocoa-palms, and other trees, in some places very 
 densely planted and of towering height ; the brown hill 
 
 ■^ This was the only instance that I remember of a hill on a 
 coral island.
 
 100 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 standing out of the midst of the green of various shades; 
 the calm sea, and the silvery moonlight, gradually spread- 
 ing over the whole landscape, made up a very rich and 
 fair prospect ; and having been able to visit the sick during 
 the day, as well as to read for a considerable time, the 
 effect of the whole was to give me a feeling of rest and 
 peace. 
 
 Ccetivy. Tuesday, May 10th. — Just after sunset I 
 am writing on deck these notes of one of the most in- 
 tensely interesting days I ever spent. I was up at twenty 
 minutes to four, and had abundant opportunity for quiet 
 remembrance of the day. At that early hour the water 
 poured over me was just like fire, from the phosphoresence. 
 At eight o^ clock I started with the Captain and Mr. 
 Caldwell, led by a canoe which had come off from the 
 shore when the manager had made us out. AYe sought 
 in vain for a passage to the shore, until we came opposite 
 to the Residence. A shark w^as distinctly seen inside the 
 reefs, with the fin out of the water several times. 
 
 The landing is in a quiet bay, near the northern end 
 of the island, with a sandy shore, and luxuriant palm-trees 
 fringing it at high-water mark. At a veiy short distance 
 from the landing-place is the Residence. As we stood 
 with our backs to the sea the camp was on the left hand, 
 some 300 yards off; and nearer to the house, almost in 
 front, the oil-store, carpenter's shed, &c. To the right of 
 the house is the provision-store, and behind it spacious 
 pigsties with immense animals in them. The place for
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 101 
 
 drying the nuts, and the mill (for which forty-five donkeys 
 are kept), are between the house and the camp. The Cap- 
 tain's tent was pitched right in front of the house, and for 
 several hours the scene was very animated, as the boats 
 successively arrived, and difi*erent parties went off in dif- 
 ferent directions, mustering again for an ante-breakfast 
 under the tent, and ending with the breakfast itself under 
 
 the hospitable roof of Monsieur and Madame , 
 
 who were very kind and attentive. 
 
 My first duty was to baptize two children; and 1 
 afterwards distributed Bibles, New Testaments, a Prayer- 
 book, and tracts. All were most thankfully received, and 
 some of the younger people showed their gratitude after- 
 wards in a very expressive manner. They went and se- 
 lected some of their finest pigeons and a couple of Muscovy 
 ducks, and had them placed in well-secured baskets, and 
 brought them for a present to me. As I left in a smaller 
 boat I did not take them with me, but the donors watched 
 very carefully the departure of the larger boat, and saw 
 their presents sent off before they would leave the beach. 
 
 The island is about seven miles long and one across. 
 A very unhealthy lagoon has been formed just behind the 
 bouse and camp, and many children have died from its 
 injurious effects. Before the birth of the youngest child 
 brought to us (a labourer's), the mother was sent to an- 
 other part of the island, and not allowed to return till the 
 child was several weeks old. The necessity of having the 
 stores near the landing-place involves that of having the 
 Besidence there also.
 
 102 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 On going round the cazes of the people, I was able to 
 see every one of them, about thirty in all, including child- 
 ren. There are six women on the island. I found some 
 who had been baptized by Mr. Banks, Mr. Le Brun, and 
 by Roman Catholic priests, and also several unbaptized. 
 One old man was very anxious to be baptized, and my 
 good impression of him was fully confirmed by the 
 manager, but I could not ascertain that he knew enough 
 of the simplest truths of the Gospel to warrant me in bap- 
 tizing him. 1 left copies of the Catechism, translated by 
 Mr. De Putron, and published by the Society for Pro- 
 moting Christian Knowledge, with the earnest and re- 
 peated request to Madame , with whom I had much 
 
 interesting conversation, that she would let her children 
 teach the Negroes from it. I regret to say that one of 
 the most profligate, hardened sinners I have ever met with, 
 was in that camp — a woman nearly seventy years old; 
 but, on the whole, I was very thankful for the kind of 
 opportunity given me of exercising a missionary vocation 
 there. Part of it had indeed been direct missionary work 
 with unbaptized African heathens. Most probably no 
 minister of God^s Word had ever landed on that island 
 before, certainly not within the memory of its present 
 occupants. What need for prayer that labourers may be 
 raised up for carrying on such work effectually ! 
 
 Two points were impressed on my mind at Coetivy, in 
 confirmation of opinions often entertained before; and 
 I have subsequently seen reason to hold them still more 
 forcibly : —
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 103 
 
 1. That the true way of doing good in all these islands 
 is to work hard for the improvement of the labouring 
 classes, especially the Creoles at Port Louis, and in our 
 other schools at Mauritius, and at Mahe and Praslin. 
 These form the greater part of the Creole population of 
 the islands. 
 
 2. That an itinerating catechist — a hardy, zealous, 
 able man, who could go for a month or two at a time to 
 these islands, — would, under God^s blessing, render in- 
 valuable service in the instruction of the labourers and of 
 their children, in the restraint of immorality, in the pre- 
 paration for the visits of a clergyman, or of the Bishop. 
 It would be a noble field of usefulness. I should mention 
 the satisfaction which was experienced by one friend at 
 the visit of the doctor of the ship. She had been threat- 
 ened with paralysis after the birth of her twelfth child 
 some months before, and was still very weak. Her hus- 
 band was also suffering from long-standing disease of the 
 liver, and they were both exceedingly grateful for the 
 attention and prescriptions of Dr. Hunter. 
 
 Wednesday, May Wth. — After the exertions of yes- 
 terday, and the tremendous sun of Coetivy, a gentle, easy 
 sail was very pleasant : 2, 3, 3 J, 4, 4 J, 5 knots was our 
 gradually increasing rate of progress. The account of 
 the Convocation; Vinet's beautiful discourse to a newly- 
 married couple; Napier, vol. iv. ; and Creoles and Coo- 
 lies, gave me diversified matter of interesting reading. 
 Just as we went down to dinner the He Platte was 
 in sight, and the evening was again most lovely.
 
 104) MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 The poor invalid was sinking all day. I visited him 
 several times; and just as I was retiring to rest, Mr. 
 Pierson came to ask me to see him again, at his own 
 request. I had a very satisfactory interview with him, 
 though he was exceedingly weak. The next day he died, 
 just as we were off St. Ann^s ; and on the following morn- 
 ing I buried him in the cemetery above Government 
 House. I felt very thankful that I was there to minister 
 to his wants, in the rapid passage towards and through 
 the dark valley. 
 
 Arrival at Make. Thursday, May \Wi. — Long before 
 daylight I could make out He Nord, by the help of Mr. 
 Marindin's glass j then Silhouette ; then we stood off till 
 morning, and, on tacking, were able to run along in sight 
 of the southern and south-eastern parts of the island, of 
 which we obtained excellent views. There were not only 
 the white coral beach and the cocoa-palm plantation, but 
 also steep hills and mountains behind, forming varied 
 combinations of exquisite beauty. On reaching the road- 
 stead, we saw again the enchanting scene which had so 
 struck me from the " Frolic,^' and all who witnessed it 
 confessed that it was the view of the day. Mr. Antoine, 
 the pilot, came on board in mourning ; and the death on 
 board, and the remembrance of Mr. Griffiths and Mrs. 
 Wade, both suddenly cut off since we were here before, 
 made thoughts of the vicissitudes of human life very 
 natural and impressive. 
 
 I met Mr. Dubois and the school-children, with Mr.
 
 YISITATIOX TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 105 
 
 Adrian Calais and Mrs. Knowles. The new church on 
 the right hand, and the new school on the left, in coming 
 towards Government House, were very cheering tokens 
 of improvement. Instead of the hired dwelling-house, 
 used as a school in the week and as a church on Sundavs, 
 here is a really beautiful edifice for public worship, and a 
 commodious, well-arranged school for the education of 
 the young ; and all the plans have been formed, the 
 greater part of the subscriptions raised, and the church 
 and school built, since I was here in October, 1856. 
 Perhaps it is well that so much had tended to depress me 
 physically, or I might have been too much elated at all 
 this. On landing with Captain Berkeley, I was kindly 
 invited by Mr. Telfair to take up my quarters at Govern- 
 ment House. I saw Dr. and Mrs. Brooks, and also Mde. 
 Pallet ; but I found, rather to my dismay, that Dr. Pallet 
 was gone to Praslin. This turned out well in the end. 
 I walked into the country with Mr. Cook, and was re- 
 ceived by the" people, from their cazes on the roadside, 
 with veiy earnest demonstrations of good-will and wel- 
 come. They seemed to feel more than the facts of the 
 case warranted, as to my part in the improvements which 
 had been effected. 
 
 I felt very thankful to have a good walk again, and 
 to find myself thus brought in peace, after a thousand 
 miles of voyaging, to the haven where for the present 
 we would be. 
 
 Friday, May ISth. — A boat was sent off to Praslin 
 for Dr. Pallet. I went down to the schools, gave the
 
 lOG MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 cliildren hymn-books^ and other books^ &c. The guls 
 were sewing very nicely. Took a long walk in the 
 evening to Anse Nord-Ouest. 
 
 Consecration of St. Paul's, Make, Saturday, May 
 \4ith. — I had the privilege of consecrating the church at 
 Mahe,, Dr. Pallet having returned from Praslin in the 
 night. A body of sailors from the ^' Lynx " were present, 
 and the ceremony was one of much happiness, and plea- 
 sure, and hope to me. Several times during the day I 
 felt weak, and rather weary. I thought of some I had 
 left in Port Louis, who would have greatly enjoyed the 
 proceedings of the day. I preached on 1 Thess. ii. 1 2, — 
 " That ye would walk worthy of God, who hath called you 
 unto His kingdom and glory." There was a good con- 
 gregation, though the notice had been short. Mr. Fer- 
 dinand Savy, the contractor ; Mr. Loiseau, the notary ; 
 Mr. Butler, the surveyor; and ]\Ir. Dubois, the re- 
 sponsible agent, who has shown so much zeal, were 
 all with me to-day. I trust this completion of an 
 earthly house of God may prove the means, by His grace, 
 of greatly helping on the work of building the spiritual 
 temple. 
 
 Sunday, May 15/A. — Three sermons in the new 
 church ; the first at eight (French service), on 1 Cor. xi. 
 26, — "Car toutes les fois que vous mangerez de ce pain, 
 et que vous boirez de cette coupe, vous annoncerez la mort 
 du Seigneur, jusqu^a ce qu^il vienne." There were 108 
 communicants. The second at half-past ten, in English.
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 107 
 
 Two hj^mns. Psalm c. and Psalm cxlLx., were sung by the 
 sailors. My text was Amos, iv. 12, — " Prepare to meet 
 thy God " (with reference to the death which had taken 
 place during the week). The third at seven, on Matt, 
 vi. 9, — " Om* Father which art in heaven.^' 
 
 There were good congregations, and quiet, serious 
 attention, and I felt truly thankful for this opportunity 
 of preaching the Word of God in that church to so many. 
 The satisfaction of being called to do God^s work is very 
 great on such days as this, and I enjoyed much com- 
 munion of spirit with those far distant. 
 
 Monday, May \Qth, — I had much feeling of sick- 
 ness and languor on awaking, — probably from the return 
 of weather so much warmer, after the strain of the sea- 
 sickness, but was better after breakfast, and then had 
 a very busy day. 
 
 According to promise, I went to visit the tomb of Mr. 
 Griffiths, which was in nice order, with bouquets of 
 flowers ; and I also looked at the ground where the sailor 
 was buried, with reference to the tombstone to be set 
 up, for which a good sum has been subscribed by his 
 comrades. Afterwards I attended at the chm*ch, for a 
 vestry-meeting, to arrange the various matters connected 
 with the election of churchwardens, auditors, the fixing of 
 pew-rents, and the kind offer of the Governor and Mrs. 
 Stevenson to present some useful gifts to the church. It 
 was decided that a pulpit and reading-desk were the most 
 essential requisites now wanting, those in use having been 
 transferred from the room formerly occupied as a chui'ch.
 
 108 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Afterwards I gave prizes to the boys and girls, which 
 were supplemented on subsequent days during my stay ; 
 and then went over Dr. Pallet's house, formerly occupied 
 by Dr. Ford. It is a very commodious^ conveniently- 
 situated house, between the church and the school, and 
 in front of Government House; so that a line drawn 
 from the former to the latter would have the church on 
 the right and the school-buildings on the left. It is also 
 near to the police-station and prisons, and in the centre 
 of the town. It would be a great advantage if the house 
 were purchased for the chaplain. 
 
 I went afterwards, with Dr. Fallet and Mr. Caldwell, 
 to the Anse Nord-Ouest, and stopped some time with Mr. 
 Green (an old man-of-war's man), who asked for a Bible, 
 and was anxious for a visit from Madame Fallet to his 
 wife. His child was one of six afterwards baptized on 
 one of the days of my stay. We went by a more inland 
 track, and then returned by the main road; thus securing a 
 visit to several cazes, where the people were busily at work, 
 and very civil. They remembered Dr. Fallet, from his 
 visits to a sick man near them. On our return we saw a 
 most glorious sunset over Silhouette, by turning round at 
 a point on the road. There was much to converse about 
 with Dr. Fallet in the many branches of his work, which 
 were suggested by the incidents of the walk, or recalled 
 from the mention made of them in letters. All the day 
 and the evening were occupied, and then we had to make 
 preparations for Praslin to-morrow. 
 
 Praslin. Tuesday ^ May 17th. — We started at eight,
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 109 
 
 under steam^ and readied tlie anchorage about one. The 
 passengers from Mahe were Mr. and Mrs. Telfair^ Dr. 
 and Mrs. Brooks^ Dr. and 3Iadame Fallet, Mr. Dubois,, 
 and Mr. Constant Collie. Vie went round the south- 
 eastern side^ as on the former occasion^ with La Digue on 
 our rights but were not so near as then to the Crocodile 
 and Shark rocks. The lovely views presented on ap- 
 proaching the island were the admiration of every one. 
 Recesses thickly planted with cocoa-nut-trees^ bays with 
 coral beaches^ uplands^ hills, and almost mountains 
 behind, caused a variety of combinations of the most en- 
 chantino; sceneiT. After anchorins: in Curieuse Bay, I 
 went across to lie Curieuse; Mr. and Mrs. Telfair and 
 Dr. and Mrs. Brooks going there for the night. Captain 
 Berkeley, Mr. Marindin, and the Doctor, were with us 
 soon afterwards. Mr. Forbes, the superintendent, was 
 very hearty in his welcome, and showed me various fine 
 pieces of coral, preserved for me, over one of which 
 he had built a temporary- shed. I found that he had 
 been at sea in his youth, and had visited Pitcairn^s 
 Island. I promised him a copy of Livingstone, and one 
 of Ellis, as loans, hoping they may be circulated among 
 the islands. 
 
 I found several changes among the lepers. Tlie poor 
 woman who was such a sad object last time, had died, as 
 well as several others. Prosper had been left undistm-bed 
 this time in the possession of the Bible which I sent him 
 in the name of the Society for Promoting Christian 
 Knowledge. He seemed very happy in the enjoyment
 
 110 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 of that and his Prayer-Book, and several tracts, to the 
 number of which I added some. I found them all very- 
 ready to enter into conversation, and felt it a great privi- 
 lege to tell them of the love and mercy of Him who died 
 for them. 
 
 On returning to the ship we procured a meal, and 
 then landed at Grande Anse under the charge of Amedee, 
 our former pilot and guide, whom I was very glad to see 
 again, and who has gone on steadily profiting by the help 
 of friends who esteem him much ; so that he now has a 
 caze, some groimd, and a good whale-boat. It was rather 
 late to stai-t, but I felt it important to reach the other 
 side of Praslin that night, and it proved well that we 
 started. 
 
 I was reminded every step of the way of the journey 
 three years ago. The desolate heritage of a former pro- 
 prietor of slaves, and about a mile more of the road up 
 the hill, was all that we had light to see. But as w^e 
 proceeded, groups of dusky figures were gathered at the 
 turns of the road, and were at last so numerous that I 
 determined on having service when we reached the 
 church. One heavy fall on a narrow piece of wood 
 across a marshy part (of which I had not been warned), 
 shook me a good deal, but on the w^hole I was not so 
 fatigued as I expected. After the prayers, I read Psalm iv., 
 and preached to the people, with special reference to the 
 services of the next day, from the words of the 5th verse, 
 " Ofi'er the sacrifices of righteousness,^^ while I also dwelt 
 on the other thoughts of that Evening Psalm. The only
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. Ill 
 
 light in the church was near me^ but as the people knew 
 the service and the hymns by hearty that did not interfere 
 with the devotions of the congregation. 
 
 After the service,, we (Dr. and Madame Pallet, M. 
 Dubois, Mr. Marindin, and I) repaired to the house near 
 the church, which has been erected since my last visit for 
 the accommodation of the clergyman. It consists of two 
 rooms, the smaller a bedroom, the larger an eating and 
 sitting-room. Here an excellent supper was prepared, of 
 which I was too tired to partake much, but had the plea- 
 sure of seeing the others enjoy such fowl and duck as are 
 rarely to be met with out of Seychelles. As soon as 
 everything was cleared, Mr. Marindin and I took possession 
 for the night, opening eveiy door and shutter (windows 
 there are none), while Dr. and ^ladame Fallet, and the 
 others, procured quarters elsewhere. The moonlight in 
 that glorious bay, and on the plains and towering hills 
 behind, made one of those scenes which are to be felt 
 but cannot be described. My own rest was not good ; 
 Mr. Marindin^s was disturbed by what proved the begin- 
 ning of a sharp touch of illness. 
 
 Wednesday J Maij 18th. — In the morning, at a quarter 
 to four, I was again out by moonlight, bathing this time 
 in the moonlit sea. When the day dawned, it was most 
 interesting to see the people coming in pirogues, or 
 wending their way along the beach, and through the 
 openings in the palm-groves, and by the time the sendee 
 began, our friends from the ship and the islands on that 
 side had arrived, when the church presented a most ani-
 
 11.2 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 mated and encouraging sight. It was well that I had 
 preached the sermon on the previous night, for there 
 were four distinct services to be performed, — 
 
 1. The Consecration Service; 
 
 2. The Confirmation Service, at which 59 were con- 
 firmed ; 
 
 3. The Communion Service, at which 112 communi- 
 cated ; and afterwards, 
 
 4. The Baptism of several children. 
 
 Again the homely table was spread in the rude but 
 comfortable house, and at half-past three we returned on 
 our homeward route. In the interval, I had called on 
 poor Madame Mouma, who was lamenting her son re- 
 ported dead at Calcutta when I was here last, and now 
 she was in mourning for her husband. All seemed tinily 
 pleased to see us, and at the time and afterwards gave 
 little tokens of their good-will. The young carpenter, 
 w^hose caze we had visited, was there with his w4fe and 
 children. One of Philippe^s sons brought me a present, 
 and Philippe himself seemed to me to have made good 
 progress since 1856. In common with many others, he 
 was very anxious for a schoolmaster. The house men- 
 tioned above is intended for a school, as well as a resting- 
 place for the clergyman at night. Philippe's great desire 
 for education was chiefly founded on the danger which 
 Popery presents to the uneducated. "When ignorant, 
 they believe all that the priests tell them ; when they are 
 enlightened, then they can reason and give an answer. '^ 
 It was with very hearty sincerity that I commended this
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 113 
 
 interesting flock to the blessing of our Heavenly 
 Father. 
 
 The first part of our return homewards was exceed- 
 ingly trymg. Mrs. Telfair was carried in a hammock by 
 two Krdbmen, but the tide washed right up to the green 
 bushes skirting the shore, so that I was obliged to take off 
 shoes, stockings, and gaiters, and to wade. Several pas- 
 sages in the valley required the same process, and then 
 I enjoyed the luxury of dry shoes and stockings. As the 
 journey was performed by daylight, we saw the towering 
 coco-de-nier trees to great advantage, and on reaching 
 the summit of the pass had veiy good views of St. Ann^s 
 and other bays towards La Digue. The trees loaded with 
 small oranges in our path caused many delays. Mr. Hart 
 and Mr. Hill bargained that the former should climb and 
 get the fruit, and the latter carry the spoil. All united 
 in expressing their astonishment that we should have got 
 over such ground in the dark.* The wild-looking flyiug- 
 foxes, sweeping oj^er the crags on the opposite hill-side, 
 added to the grandeur of the scene ; and the feeling that 
 v/e were passing through a forest of such trees as are found 
 in no other islands in the world helped to lighten the 
 fatigue of the road, which was not small. By the time 
 we reached Mr. Adam's the evening had set in. From 
 half-past three to half-past six was the time taken in 
 reaching his house. Heavy sand afterwards made us turn 
 up to the left, and in so doing we came near the Roman 
 Catholic church, quite a small building, and passed close 
 * See page 57.
 
 114 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 to Mr. Adrien^s house, where we had lodged last time. 
 A boat was at hand, and we were soon on board. Mr. 
 Adricn came to me at the other side of Praslin, and was 
 exceedingly civil. I told him I was glad of the opportunity 
 of thanking him for the use of his house. He afterwards 
 came to me at Mahe_, and brought several presents. 
 
 On my way through the valley I had entered into con- 
 versation with an old Negro, whose expressions at once 
 showed much intelligence. He spoke particularly on the 
 sin of crucifying the Son of God afresh, by giving way to 
 sin after professing to serve Him. This led to my question- 
 ins: him further, when I found that he had been instructed 
 by Mr. Banks and Mr. Le Brun. The old man came to 
 me afterwards at Mahe wdth a basket of beautiful fruit, 
 Chinese guavas, limes, and large oranges picked off the 
 trees green, that they might last till we got to Mauritius, 
 for Madame and the children. 
 
 Thuj'sday, Maij 19th. — Finding there was time, I went 
 off again with Amedee to Curieuse, and was veiy thankful 
 that I had gone. I walked over the Lepers^ Cemetery, 
 and was much struck with the care which had evidently 
 been taken of all the graves. There seems to be an under- 
 standing among them that the survivors will perform this 
 kindness for those who die. There were one or two monu- 
 ments to English seamen, dated many years back, and the 
 epitaph on one of the poor lepers was so like the strange 
 compositions of some of our English villages that I felt 
 sure some clever half-educated man had been a resident 
 on the island. My conjecture proved correct. An odd
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 115 
 
 man, thouglit to be veiy learned, of the name of Donnelly, 
 had framed the verses, which were as follows. After the 
 age, date of death, &c., — 
 
 *' La Malheureuse 
 (Reunissez a son caractere, 
 Toutes les qualites necessaires,) 
 A laisse apres elle 
 Des regrets immortels." 
 
 " Quam metuendus est iste locus !" 
 
 These epitaphs caused remembrances of Europe to 
 mingle with other feelings excited by the view of that 
 burial-ground. The loveliness of the surrounding scenery 
 close upon the coral beach, within hearing of the breakers, 
 and within sight of the bright sea under the light of a 
 tropical sun, contrasted strangely with the thoughts sug- 
 gested by the graves of such children of sorrow as the 
 exiles from England and the lepers from islands of Africa. 
 It is under such circumstances that the consolations of the 
 Gospel appear in their clearest light. 
 
 On revisiting the lepers, I had a pretty good number 
 of them round the door of Prosper^s caze. I read to them 
 John,iii. 14-21, and explained the verses, with application to 
 themselves. Some of Prosper's remarks afterwards showed 
 a confusion of ideas which I endeavoured to dispel. He said 
 that he had been told that the Jews were a wandering 
 people to this day, because they despised the brazen ser- 
 pent on Mount Zion. This gave me a good opportunity 
 of repeating the explanation of the type. I offered a few 
 words of prayer with them, and left them with the Blessing.
 
 116 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 It was very satisfactory to myself that I had gone over 
 again, for I saw much more of Prosper, who had known 
 Mr. Denny, Mr. Banks, and Mr. Le Brun. 
 
 The whole of our party then set off for the ship, w^hich 
 was already in mid-channel, and went on for La Digue, 
 which we reached at eleven o'clock. This was my first 
 visit to that island. It has a large plain from the shore 
 up to high hills on its eastern side. The vegetation is 
 fine, and the trees immense, particularly filhaos. About a 
 mile's walk brought us to the church, built close to the 
 house of Mr. Mellon, who gave the ground, timber, &c. 
 He was not there, but his son was. The house is spacious 
 and lofty, and close to a remarkable boulder of granite, 
 of great height, which rises out of the plain of sand. 
 
 We had the Litany Service, and I read a few of the 
 Consecration Prayers, and then preached on the 100th 
 PsalDi. Dr. and Madame Pallet, Mr. Dubois, Philippe and 
 party, had come over in a boat. I preferred licensing the 
 chapel to consecrating it, as the work is in its commence- 
 ment, and the people were very different from those who 
 have been instructed and trained at Praslin. 
 
 It was dark when we reached the harbour at Mahe. 
 There was heavy rain, but we landed safely, after a most 
 interesting trip, between seven and eight o^ clock. 
 
 Friday, May 20th. — I felt better on rising than I 
 think I have done at all since I left Mauritius, and was 
 very thankful for this with so much work before me. 
 
 This has been a thoroughly pastoral day. I sent 
 Prayer-books to the girls through Mrs. Kuowles. The
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 117 
 
 confinnation took place at half-past eleven. There were 
 seventy-nine candidates. I addressed them, just before 
 the imposition of hands, from Josh, xxiv., and baptized 
 three children afterwards. 
 
 ^ Some bands of young people came up with presents. 
 I took some rest during the afternoon, and read the Blue- 
 book on Mauritius and the Seychelles ; and Vinet on 
 " ^ATiile we have time^ let us do good unto all men/^ came 
 in well before my tour with Dr. Fallet to visit families of 
 the congregation and others. Among the people \asited 
 was a poor woman who had called on me last time, whose 
 mother had died of cholera at Mauritius. On all sides I 
 had the kindest inquiries for *^ Madame et Ma^m^selle et 
 les petits garcons.-'^ I was very thankful for the day^s 
 work. 
 
 Saturday, May 2\st. — I had a pleasant time by the 
 flagstaff. Now that all my work is done, I feel veiy^ anxious 
 to get back. I walked with Mr. Telfair to the new^ bridge 
 that he had constructed about three miles from the town 
 on the northern side, and I saw how much improvement 
 had been effected by comparison w^th the state of the road 
 before. On our way out w^e called on Mr. Cauvin, who 
 showed us his vanilla, pepper, nurseiy for cocoa-nuts, &c. 
 Then we passed the Hodoul estate, formerly owned by 
 the captain of a privateer. The place in which he built 
 his ships ; the rock near which he anchored inside a narrow 
 pass ; the remnants of his terraced constructions all up the 
 hill-side; the fine trees near his mansion; flamboyant, 
 cocoa, bread-fruit trees and others, all illustrated the short
 
 118 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 history told me of his deeds as a privateering captain, and 
 then as an importer of slaves ; and now, notwithstanding 
 the fertility of the soil, and the luxuriance of the vegetation 
 of all sorts, desolation is stamped on the place, even in the 
 next generation. 
 
 Sunday, May 22nd. — At the first service at eight, I 
 preached on Matt. vi. 9, — " Notre Pere qui es aux cieux," 
 at the second (Enghsh) on Psalm c; in the evening on 
 Matt. xvi. 24, — "Then said Jesus unto his disciples, If 
 any man will come after me, let him deny himself, and 
 take up his cross and follow me.^^ The congregation was 
 very large, and many French people were present. 
 
 Monday, May 23rd. — I walked to Mr. Duhois' with 
 Dr. Pallet, along the northern shore. I hear much of his 
 kindness to the poor. Mr. Cauvin came to breakfast. 
 He was the first who imported cloves to Zanzibar in 1822, 
 and there are beautiful groves there now. We received 
 tidings of a bark in the distance. I hoped it was the "Tul- 
 loch Goram,^^ by which I should probably have to go. (It 
 proved afterwards to be an American bark, coming to land 
 a sick man.) I took a long walk to Belvidere, more than 
 a mile from North-west Bay, calling at Mr. Rosses on 
 my way back. I passed several rivers, or rather torrent 
 streams. More than twenty people assembled among the 
 large boulder rocks, and we went into a caze, where I read 
 a hymn and prayers, and then addressed them on Luke, 
 XV. 1, — " Then drew near unto Him all the publicans and 
 sinners for to hear Him ;'' and then offered prayer again. 
 I arranged about the school and chapel room, and for one
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 119 
 
 of the girls to be trained in town_, and felt truly thankful 
 for this result. I had very pleasant converse with Dr. 
 Fallet about contingent arrangements. Met Savy : on 
 appealing to his religious feelings, I found he had for- 
 merly been a VVesleyan. 
 
 Tuesday, May 24th. — The Queen^s birthday. I took 
 an early walk near the flagstaff. My usual subject of 
 intercession for Tuesday, the Colonies, Colonial Bishops, 
 and societies and agencies at work for their good, seemed 
 particularly easy this morning, and I read Psalm xx. 
 and Psalm xxi. in prayer for the Queen. I was much 
 touched by a present from old Constant, who arrived from 
 Praslin, of oranges, so arranged as to ripeness that they 
 might reach Mauritius for Madame. Many other visits 
 and presents from the kind-hearted people. I sent for 
 Amedee, to give him a pair of oars for the boat in which 
 he has done us such good service. There was a levee at 
 twelve. A royal salute was fired from the " Lynx," and the 
 officers were present, while the marines mounted guard. 
 
 When all had retired, a body of the Seychelles people 
 came up, and presented me with a nice address respecting 
 the church, and my visit. 
 
 I called to see a young American who was very ill, and 
 read and prayed with him ; gave Mr. Gardiner, of Pras- 
 lin, a Reference Bible, and received several visits. In the 
 evening I read for Dr. Pallet, who conducted the cate- 
 chising service as before, three years ago. The last verses 
 of Mark i. were the subject. 
 
 Wednesday, May 26 th. — Went down to the school and
 
 120 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 examined the first class of girls, and was very much pleased 
 with their reading and answers to my questions on Luke, 
 XV. 1-10, the parables of the lost sheep and the lost 
 piece of silver. Then w^ent on with Dr. Fallet and Mr. 
 Dubois to the " Lynx," and breakfasted on board ; after 
 w^hich, taking Mr. Maule, we proceeded to St. Ann^s, He 
 Longue, and He aux Cerfs. Melzidor, our boatman, w^as 
 one of many instances I have met with, of the great 
 value of the instruction in our schools. When I 
 w^as here last, he was at Silhouette, where he lived 
 several years. He is now the occupant of Long Island 
 (in the Bay of Mahe)^ with his own family and his 
 brother^s: and through his early education, has always 
 had, and now has, books with him, and is fit to receive 
 the exhortation to teach his children their catechism and 
 prayers. His gladness at seeing me at Mahe, and his 
 active zeal to-day, showed how well he remembered the 
 kindness received in our schools. We found St. Aun^s 
 a very fine island, with a mansion of the old times, having 
 an enormous tamarind-tree in the front (twenty paces from 
 the trunk to the end of the branches). A few stunted 
 coco-de-mer trees showed hov/ remarkable the soil of 
 Praslin must be which sends them up 120 feet. 
 
 The hat and shoes of a former resident, a Mr. Sa\y, 
 coincided with the description of his height — more than 
 seven feet. The manager was very kind and attentive. I 
 left a bundle of tracts at the house. On leaving St. Ann^s 
 we passed close to Round Island, and landed at Long 
 Island^ where Melzidor^s little dwelling was. Met his
 
 VISITATIOX TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 121 
 
 brother^ "baptized by Dr. Fallet, afterwards at Mahe. I 
 spoke a good deal to bis wife andbimself about the child- 
 reiij and about prayer, and left some tracts with them. 
 We had a very pleasant visit at the lie aux Cerfs after- 
 wards. 
 
 Thursday^ Mmj 26th. — I examined the schools in the 
 morning, and afterwards discussed with Mr. Telfair ar- 
 rangements about them. Some interesting visitors came 
 from Glacis to-day. At Dr. Fallet^s service to-night I 
 read, and he gave his usual extemporaneous address on a 
 portion of Scripture, taking 2 Sam. xxiv., on which he 
 made several striking remarks. 
 
 Friday, May 27th. — There was heavy rain and wdnd 
 early this morning. Preparations for starting to-morrow. 
 Just as everything was settled, Mr. Cook came, and re- 
 ported a bark to leeward beating up. We suppose it may 
 be the ^' Tulloch Goram." Visits to blacksmith and his 
 famil}^, and others. 
 
 Saturday, May 2Sth. — The ship anchored before day- 
 light, and proved to be the " Tulloch Goram,'-' bringing 
 no letters for the " Lynx,'^ to the great disappointment 
 of many on board. Dr. Bell, from Johanna, was a pas- 
 senger in her. I decided on going by her, as all opinions 
 concur in the probability of her being at least tw^o weeks, 
 and perhaps three, or even four, before the "Lynx,'^ at 
 Mauritius. It seems the plain path of duty to seize the 
 first opportunity under my circumstances. 
 
 Sunday, May 29th. — The most depressing Sunday, on 
 the whole, that I have known, I think, for many years ; so
 
 122 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 niucli secular business lias almost unavoidably been pressed 
 into it, and so much perplexity has arisen about my move- 
 ments, that I have been sorely tried in both these re- 
 spects. The house of God has been my blessed refuge, as 
 often before. The petition in the Collect, that we might 
 " think those things that be good," came with an impres- 
 siveness which I never remember on any former occasion. 
 If only I desire and plan what is good, all will be well. 
 iVt the early service I preached in French, on Matt. vi. 
 10, — " Ton regne vienne ;" afterwards in English, Eccles. 
 xii. 13, 14, — ^' Let us hear the conclusion of the whole 
 matter : Fear God, and keep His commandments ; for 
 this is the whole duty of man. For God shall bring every 
 work into judgment, with every secret thing, whether it 
 be good, or whether it be evil.^' And in the evening on 
 Philip, iv. 7, — " La paix de Dieu, laquelle surpasse toute 
 intelligence, gardera vos coeurs et vos esprits en Jesus- 
 Christ." I thought much of some friends now removed. 
 Much alone to-day, and felt it good to be so. Visited 
 Mrs. Telfair in her sick chamber to-day, and read Psalm 
 Ixi. I also went on board the ship, to visit Workman, 
 one of the stokers, who was very weak, and to him also 
 read Psalm Ixi. Had a pleasing conversation with Dr. 
 Pallet after church this evening. Read Vinet to-day, — 
 ^^Les chants et les pleurs." 
 
 Monday f May SOth. — Another very trying day. After 
 much delay and various rumours, find that the " Tulloch 
 Goram" is going to take in cargo, which will probably 
 involve a fortnight's delaj. If I go on, I shall have the
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 123 
 
 opportunity of acting as chaplain to the crew of the 
 "Lynx/^ — seventy souls. I shall be able to visit the 
 Chagos Islands^ which are in my diocese; and it is now 
 extremely probable that the ^''Lynx^^ will be at Zvlauritius 
 at least as soon as the " TuUoch Goram." Had there been 
 a good prospect of reaching Mauritius, where there is so 
 much concentrated work^ a fortnight sooner by going with 
 Captain Sangster, I should have felt it my duty to go. I 
 was sadly disappointed on going with Captain Berkeley to 
 Mr. Collie, and finding Mr. Dubois and Dr. Bell there, 
 evidently with minds made up about the detention of 
 the ship. 
 
 Having decided not to go by the '^ Tulloch Goram,^^ I 
 went on board to-night to see Captain Sangster, as I was 
 determined not to let any comparison between the ships 
 influence me in my decision ; but I did not find him there. 
 Mr. Maule went with me, and on to the " Lynx," where 
 much kind feeling was expressed about my going with 
 them early to-morrow morning. I trust we may be a 
 shorter time than is expected. Probably this is the last 
 day of my sojourn in the Seychelles. How much to stir 
 up persevering prayer, and praise also ! 
 
 Tuesday, May ?>lst. — I was up veiy early this morn- 
 ing ; after lying awake some time, I wTote a little birth- 
 day note to L. while the baggage was packing, and left it 
 to go by the "Tulloch Coram." Though it was early 
 when w^e started, Mr. A. Calais and Mrs. Knowles were 
 accompanied by many of the boys and girls, and there was 
 a goodly number of the congregation down to see me off.
 
 124 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 I felt much drawn to tliem, and much comforted by then* 
 cordial affection. Reasons for humiliation I mourn over 
 deeply ; but I feel that there is indeed ground for most 
 earnest gratitude, and for good hope in the results which 
 have been vouchsafed at the Seychelles. j\Ir. Telfair and 
 his nice little girl, Dr. Brooks and Mr. Mulloy, came on 
 board with us. Dr. Fallet parted with much feeling. I 
 feel renewed thankfulness for such a man there. 
 
 Mr. Antoine piloted us through by St. Ann^s and 
 He Longue, and we steamed all along Mahe to Point 
 Capuchin, east by south, and I am now writing on the 
 conning-stool, having, I hope, got over the danger of 
 sea-sickness. (This proved a very fallacious hope, for I 
 suffered more severely even than on leaving Mauritius.) 
 I have just read with intense interest some of Mr. 
 Ellis's book. The scenery at Mauritius, the parting at 
 ^ladagascar, plants, animals, scenery, openings for good, 
 prayers for blessing, link between friends at home and 
 people there, all are most suggestive. The sad part 
 about the ravages of cholera while he was away, shows 
 what our prayers should be now with reference to the 
 cholera at Bourbon, both for them and for Mauritius. 
 Our course brought us close to Frigate Island, which 
 was the first land we made in the " Frolic '^ in 1856. 
 I thought again of Captain and j\Irs. Wade, who were 
 with us there. 
 
 Wednesday, June 1st. — Much misery from sea-sickness 
 last night and to-day. The retching was more violent, 
 accompanied this time with spitting of blood, which
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 125 
 
 ratlier alarmed me from the weakness I felt ; but I have 
 found the swinging-bed invaluable, and we have been 
 much favoured in the weather^ having been able^ most 
 unexpectedly, to keep our course. The Psalms for the 
 day were the first and second in the morning, and third 
 and eighth in the evening. It is a long time since I had 
 so much leisure for reflection. " La solitude pour le 
 pasteur." Three buckets of water over me were very 
 refreshing early to-day. All are very kind in their sym- 
 pathy. T had repeated attacks of sickness till late in the 
 evening, but enjoyed my swinging-bed greatly, and have 
 had no sickness while on it at all. IMr. Ellis^s book has 
 again to-day been a very interesting companion. None 
 but those who have travelled with Missionary views can 
 understand the narratives, the allusions, the hopes and 
 the anxieties, related in such a book. 
 
 Thursday, June 2nd. — I bathed by early starlight, 
 and returned to my swinging-bed, of which arrangement 
 J felt the advantage afterwards. To my great delight I 
 have been free from the sickness thus far to-day. The 
 very movements of the flying fish seemed exhilarating 
 this morning. Our course also interposed all our sails 
 between us and the sun for the whole morning. I had 
 some conversation with Denis, the Krooboy who was 
 with Dr. Livingstone. His account is, that all his people 
 are leaving their gree-grees and coming to our schools. 
 He mentioned also Mrs. Livingstone and their little 
 boy. Mr. Hart is better to-day. I was able to resume 
 morning prayer — making use of the Collect for Ascension-
 
 126 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 day. I thoiiglit of the happy services on shore at Port 
 Louis and at Mahe, and in many other places^ and 
 enjoyed the Psalms and Lessons for the day — a very 
 bright and blessed one. I was able to come down and 
 write in the cabin^ and tried to do something in copying 
 out my journal ; but was unable to do much, and felt 
 great depression at times. How immense is the comfort 
 of having the Refuge that never fails to flee to and be 
 safe ! The heat was intense in the cabin this evening. 
 We are gradually nearing the equator. 
 
 Friday, June Srd. — We have made about 143 mile's 
 since yesterday. My night was disturbed with unplea- 
 sant dreams, and I was up at four; just in time to bathe 
 and go down again before a squall, with much rain, came 
 on. I felt veiy incapable all the early part of the day, 
 but w^as better towards noon and afternoon, and greatly 
 enjoyed the ninth Psalm. We have need of circum- 
 stances of external depression to teach us the virtue of 
 the inner springs of consolation. I read on with very 
 great interest Mr. Ellis's book. His description of the 
 ''bird beloved by cattle," is singularly coincident with 
 what I observed at Coetivy ; and his summary of the 
 results of Missionary operation, as observed by him at 
 the Cape, very like what we have to speak of, both in 
 the encouraging and discouraging parts. The '' fiddling 
 and arrack" at Madagascar, too, show how the same 
 classes of temptations are besetting people everywhere. 
 Read Vinet on '^ Soyez toujours joyeux," in the Nou- 
 veaux Discours, with eager interest, and translated part
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 127 
 
 of it to Mr. Hart. Nice tunes from Captain Berkeley 
 on his flutina* 
 
 Saturdaij, June Srd. — 147 miles since yesterday, but 
 are now in only 2° 55' south latitude. I had veiy refresh- 
 ing sleep, and felt uncertain when the eight bells went 
 whether it was for twelve o^clock or four. Not hearing the 
 voice of the oflScer of the morning watch, I went up to 
 bathe : the starlight was bright, and I feared a hot 
 glaring day, but it has proved very different. The double 
 awning has been most cool and refreshing. Meditated 
 this morning on the security of the heavenly bliss, and 
 the apparent insecurity of earthly pilgrims towards it. 
 Lent Captain Berkeley, Ellis's Madagascar, On the 
 spot where I was sitting yesterday to write, at the foot 
 of the main-mast, and which I thought of making 
 my permanent place, the halyard block and the jaw- 
 rope gear fell, bringing the trysail nearly down. Is 
 it not an admonition for sustained watchfulness and 
 dependence ? 
 
 Sunday after Ascension, June 5th. — A wakeful night, 
 and I felt much tendency to apprehension about my work 
 in the day, but was, as usual, greatly helped with it. In 
 the early part of the day there was very little wind, and 
 a heaving, uncertain sea, and afterwards a light but plea- 
 sant breeze. The men were all mustered at divisions, 
 and I went with the captain and officers over the lower 
 deck. Eveiything is in most beautiful order, looking 
 thoroughly appropriate for the day. The men were at 
 the service in their Praslin straw hats. I preached on the
 
 128 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Ascension from Acts^ i. 9-11, — "And when lie had spoken 
 these things, while they beheld, he was taken up ; and a 
 cloud received him out of their sight. And while they 
 looked stcdfastly towards heaven as he went up, behold, 
 two men stood by them in white apparel ; w^hich also said, 
 Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven? 
 this same Jesus, which is taken up from you into heaven, 
 shall so come in like manner as ye have seen him go into 
 heaven.'^ I had a long afternoon — was alone and quiet 
 on the deck a good part of the time : looked up the library 
 again, and had converse with several of the men. At about 
 three the sky became exceedingly black, and a strong 
 sqaall of wind came up from south- south-west. This 
 brought the ship up to her course, south-east ; but as 
 there was every appearance of rough weather, we had 
 evening service on the lower deck. This was hot 
 and trying, but I was glad of it for the sick. I 
 preached on Deut. xxxiii. 25, — " As thy days, so shall 
 thy strength be," with special reference to some part 
 of the morning sermon — the need of grace to be kept 
 safe for the inheritance. I felt very thankful indeed at 
 having been able to preach and converse to-day. The 
 sea broke heavily over the ship while we were down at 
 service. 
 
 Monday, June 6th. — Our progress to-day was ninety- 
 four miles. I resumed Ellis this morning with renewed 
 interest, and read part of Captain Nolloth's little book 
 on Mozambique, conversing with Captain Berkeley about 
 the descriptions of the latter. It is a great comfort, in
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE SEYCHELLES. 129 
 
 various ways, to be surrounded by those who have so 
 mucli informatioD, and whose education has been so 
 good. I find that some of the crew have been prac- 
 tising the Morning Hymn for our Sunday service. Read 
 Vinet on " Le Principe de TEgalite humaine.^^ ^^Tiat 
 a cause for the deepest thanksgiving, when the elucida- 
 tion of such principles is accompanied by the conviction 
 that, through God^s grace, they are very precious to my 
 heart : " Man, as man, equal to all other men before God ! '' 
 How often have I had to contend, and how heartily, for 
 this ! I read some of Dr. Livingstone also this evening, 
 and am very glad to see how fully engaged both his 
 book and Mr. EUis^s are on board. 
 
 Tuesday, June Ith. — The weather very calm to-day. 
 The thermometer 88° in the shade and the awning very 
 refreshing. I finished Ellis to-day, and feel very thank- 
 ful that I have had time to study the book, and to let 
 its various descriptions, incidents, prospects and senti- 
 ments, enter quietly, and not too quickly, into my mind. 
 Have I not a peculiar interest in all this? Ought I 
 not to know all that may be known of Madagascar, to 
 kindle my interest, and at least to quicken my prayers 
 in its behalf? Ought not the Church in Mauritius to 
 desire and seek for a door of entrance there ? And so 
 with Dr. Livingstone^ s book. Coming just after him in 
 the "Frolic," and now again in the "Lynx;'^ seeing 
 those who have just left him in his second expedition, 
 and who are able, both officers and men, to tell me so 
 much of the actual work which awaited him; then 
 
 K
 
 130 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Captain Nolloth's book on Mozambique and the neigh- 
 bouring islands and towns ; all is most appropriate to 
 the position in which this tour places me, as supple- 
 menting so large a part of the map of the Africo- 
 Indian Ocean. 
 
 Wednesday, June Sth. — After a very quiet night the 
 wind is light to-day, but in the right direction. We 
 were 140 miles from Peros Banhos at noon. I read the 
 account of the Six Islands in the written report, and 
 examined the chart. I fear there may be delay, and 
 feel the need of prayer that good may be done to souls 
 by my visit. 
 
 Thursday, June 9th. — We came in sight of Peros Ban- 
 hos, and made Moresby Island and Diamond Island before 
 noon, and are approaching rapidly as I am writing this. 
 What a delightful passage we have had, where so much 
 difficulty was predicted from head-winds and high sea ! 
 Instead of the twelve days which Mr. Antoine, the Sey- 
 chelles pilot, said was the least time we could do it in, 
 this is only the ninth day and we have not tacked once, 
 nor gone to the north of the line, as will be seen by re- 
 ference to the chart. Blessed be God for all his mercies ! 
 May His goodness be the incentive and the supply of our 
 service of Him ! 
 
 Chagos Islands. — In order to understand the account 
 which is to follow, it is necessary to give here a slight 
 account of the groups of islands visited, viz. Peros Banhos, 
 Salomon Islands, the Three Brothers, and Eagle Island, 
 the Six Islands, and Diego Garcia.
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 131 
 
 These groups of islands have been formed by the coral 
 insect on an outline more or less strictly circular. But 
 in no case is the circle or oval complete. Hence the 
 danger of the navigation, and hence also the accessibility 
 of the islands. If the circle were complete, as there is 
 no landing on the seaward side, there would be no access ; 
 but the actual state of the case is, that reefs and islands, 
 with passes between them, now make up the round, so that 
 when inside the pass, or part where the coral is not yet 
 heaved up high enough to block up a vessePs passage, you 
 have the most novel and enchanting view all round you. 
 The vessel anchors to the lee of an island covered with 
 cocoa- palms and other trees from end to end. From the 
 stern of the ship you see the same view, with variety of 
 size and shape; and on either side islands, islets, and rocks, 
 separated by foaming reefs or by narrow passes, meet the 
 eye, so that you are encircled by these objects in such a 
 way as not to be able to see the pass by which you en- 
 tered. The diameter of this circular or oval outline is from 
 four to six miles ; but at Diego Garcia, which we visited 
 last, the effect was greatly heightened by the continuation 
 of the land in graceful curves all round the outline, ex- 
 cept at the opening, where one or two islets and the pass 
 are found, affording one unbroken prospect of rich tro- 
 pical verdure. 
 
 These groups of islands produce cocoa-nuts in large 
 quantities, and some of them large timber. A manager 
 at each station, sometimes embracing a whole group, 
 superintends a number of workmen, nearly all of African
 
 132 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 descent. To inquire into their state, treatment, and wages, 
 was the object of the Commissioners ; mine, to see what 
 could be done for their spiritual good ; and, while much 
 spiritual destitution was brought before my notice, I was 
 also led to find, far beyond what I expected, the fulfilment 
 of the promise, " Cast thy bread upon the waters, and 
 thou shalt find it after many days." 
 
 I now resume the account of the afternoon of Thurs- 
 da}^, June 9th. We landed at He du Cour, Mr. Fort, 
 who came out in a boat, giving us a pilot for our boat, 
 whose name was Amedee, and who was formerly one of 
 Mr. Jenkins's pupils in Port Louis — a very intelligent 
 man, tonnellier or cooper to the establishment, on good 
 wages. He was glad to receive a book, and I was much 
 pleased to find my first acquaintance in the island able 
 to profit by the means I had brought with me. 
 
 Monsieur and Madame H , at the head of the 
 
 establishment, were very kind. Monsieur H was so ill 
 
 with dysentery that the doctor was sent for to prescribe 
 for him. 
 
 Accompanied by Mr. ^laule and Mr. Marindin I 
 walked across the island, and found the windward side 
 completely barred against all approach from the sea, by 
 reefs extending far into the sea. The coral was in every shape 
 and of various colours ; and it was the first time that I had 
 seen a beach of coral stones, if they may be so called. 
 Nothing but coral in large masses, in the reefs and on the 
 beach, and some of it very beautiful. A house was ap- 
 propriated to Mr. Caldwell and myself, eveiy door and
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 133 
 
 sliutter thrown open, and tlie sound of the surf was to be 
 heard on both sides, the island being only 360 paces broad. 
 
 Friday J Jan. 10th. — Soon after five I went off to bathe, 
 under the guidance of an old Negro, whom I found very 
 ignorant but earnestly docile. The most remarkable 
 catch of fish I ever saw took place near the spot where I 
 had bathed. Several men had a few gunny-bags tied to- 
 gether, with which they made a net. This was seized by 
 a man at each end, taken about ten feet or so into the sea, 
 put down and drawn to shore with the centre part full of 
 fish. On walking up to them I observed what seemed to 
 be a line of sea-weed, a few feet from the water-mark, but 
 on looking nearer I found it was a bank of fish some forty 
 yards in length by two yards or more in breadth. The 
 explanation given of this is, that these fish make their way 
 over the shallow reef just outside the island to avoid the 
 pursuit of the larger fish in the deep water. 
 
 I met Amedee on my return to the house, and had the 
 satisfaction of learning from him that a man named Desir 
 from Yacoas was there, and could read well. I saw much 
 of Desir during the day, and borrowed from him a French 
 Prayer-book, given to Henriette Le Bon in November, 
 1855, when I had to perform the office of baptizing the 
 child of one of their neighbours. I visited the camp four 
 times, and had many opportunities of speaking, teaching, 
 reading, and praying with the sick and others. It was a 
 great satisfaction to be able to take the doctor with me to 
 the sick, of whom there were five, including Monsieur 
 H . I spoke there, as in the other islands afterwards,
 
 134 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 with the managers on the duty of teaching the simple 
 elements of Christianity and the Lord^s Prayer to these 
 poor people. Mr. De Joux and Mr. Le Brun were the 
 persons named by the Protestants as having instructed 
 them. I have found in all the islands_, I believe, men un- 
 baptized and untaught, as well as a proportion of nominal 
 Roman Catholics. Mr. Banks, Mr. Clark, and Mr. De la 
 Fontaine, as well as Mr. De Joux and Mr. Le Brun, were 
 the names had in honour and grateful remembrance by 
 those who could read, generally speaking. 
 
 When we got outside the pass, we sailed along by 
 Diamond Island, and the Captain and Mr. Caldwell went 
 on shore to Moresh Island about a prisoner. An immense 
 shoal of porpoises passed ahead of the ship, and played 
 their gambols with very determined energy. While 
 anchored on a bank, a large quantity of fish were caught, 
 and I found myself engaged in the favomite pursuit of my 
 boyish days, with better success than I think I ever had 
 before, hauling up six large fish in a very short space of 
 time. The change was good for the sailors, both in the 
 amusement and in the kind of provisions secured. Another 
 kind of fishing suggested itself to my mind. 
 
 Saturdai/, June 11th (St. Barnabas^ day). — Four years 
 ago I landed in Mauritius. How many mercies to review ! 
 We began steaming at three in the morning, and made 
 out Salomon's Islands, while the others were in sight. 
 Anchored ofi" He Fouquet at about eight. The schooner 
 " Sanspareir^ was there. There are only sixteen la- 
 bourers. Mr. Alard, the manager, remembered me at the 
 
 I
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 135 
 
 hospital in the cholera of 1856. One of his people, named 
 Gustave, had pretty' clear notions about the Crucifixion, 
 and I urged him to speak to the others, and left a New 
 Testament and tracts in French. In the evening, five men 
 from the island came on board, and I spoke to them as 
 they leaned against the bulwarks of the vessel in the clear 
 moonlight. Their earnestness was most touching as I 
 spoke of the Saviour's love and compassion. 
 
 So many persons have expressed their deep interest 
 in hearing of the method pursued in teaching these men, 
 that I am induced to write it in full, as it illustrates 
 the manner in which the truth has to be broken into 
 small fragments, so as to be profitably received by hearers 
 of that description. 
 
 It was with a very strong feeling of responsibility 
 that I began to speak to them. AVhat passage of Scrip- 
 ture should I take ? What subject should I try to im- 
 press on their minds ? At home, the subject not dwelt 
 on to-day might be taken up at another time, but here 
 was one opportunity of ioiparting to minds that could 
 not take in much, and only during a few minutes, the 
 message of salvation. Which of the parables or state- 
 ments of the Gospels should I take ? After prayerful 
 consideration of the matter, I chose what would perhaps 
 be a very obvious text to most persons — tbe parable of 
 the lost sheep. I was speaking to labourers from an 
 island where there were neither sheep nor shepherds, 
 and had to find out how far any of them were acquainted 
 with other places, so as to be able to understand my
 
 136 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 words. I proceeded thus, — " Autrefois ein di monde qui 
 berger . . . Qui 9a berger?" After a little while an 
 answer from one of them, — " Gardien troupeau, mon- 
 sieur.'^ " Qa meme/' I replied — "Gardien troupeau." 
 " A present li ete y enna pour li cent brebis. Qui 9a, 
 brehis?^' This was followed by some delay; then one 
 earnestly replied, " Moutons, monsieur.^' " Bien ! a la fin 
 de la journee — besoin compter — ein fin manque — combien 
 reste?'' This question was answered by one of them, 
 and then I proceeded, — "A present qui li faire?'' No 
 answer was given, which I thought honest on their part, 
 for I fear their own plan would have been to do nothing. 
 I then changed the question, and put it thus, — '^ Si li 
 hon berger, qui faire? li alle dormir?'' *^ N^a pas, 
 monsieur.^' '^ Qui done?'' iVnd then one of them said, 
 most earnestly, — " Roder ^archer." This is their pro- 
 nunciation of chercher. I praised that answer, and then 
 dwelt on the pains and toil through which the shepherd 
 went, till at last he found the sheep behind some rock 
 or bush, torn perhaps and wearied; and now, what 
 was he to do ? One of them replied, — " Ramener her- 
 gerie." Ah, but I said, '' Si n'a pas capable marcher ? 
 A present, qui faire?" Then came a very earnest 
 reply, — " Charger sur son zepaule, monsieur." I then 
 told them it was the very thing he did ; and that, though 
 he was tired and wearied, he carried that sheep all the 
 way, and never stopped till it was safely in the fold. 
 And when I described him as calling his camarades 
 to rejoice with him, and asked them why he was " si
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 137 
 
 eontent?^^ they very quickly replied, — " Parceque li ete 
 trouve son brebis ? ^' By this time they were prepared 
 for the exposition and application of the parable, and 
 seemed to feel most deeply what I told them of our 
 wandering away in sin, and of the tender love of the 
 Good Shepherd in coming to suffer and to die that He 
 might bring us back. 
 
 Immediately after the morning work I went across the 
 bay to He Boddam, belonging to a different proprietor, and 
 managed by Mr. Hugon. Immense numbers of timber- 
 trees gave the island a very solid and substantial appear- 
 ance. I found that the man who guided us across the 
 island was a pupil of Mr. Banks, baptized by him, and he 
 told us of Paul, who was on He Anglaise. We proceeded 
 thither and found a well-known candidate for work at Va- 
 coas, at a time when we were compelled to close our schools 
 (a Malegache named Paul). A New Testament and 
 tracts were given in several directions on this group, and a 
 promise made of my only remaining French Bible to 
 Paul, which I afterwards sent by Captain Le Fevre, of 
 the ^' Sanspareil/^ 
 
 Whit-Sunday, June 12th. — Extract from my diary. 
 On opening this book to-night, I saw the text at the be- 
 ginning, " Cast thy bread upon the waters, for thou shalt 
 find it after many days;" and it is indeed most appropriate 
 to the events of this day." I rose early in the morning, and 
 while I was preparing my sermon. Captain Le Fevre, of the 
 ^' Sanspareil," came for the regulation of his chronometer, 
 and I read to him (a French Roman Cathohcj part of my
 
 138 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sermon on the Holy Ghost_, preached in Alderney in 1842. 
 Captain Berkeley kindly took my suggestion about having 
 service earlier than usual, that we might have a service 
 before starting. I read tlie Litany and a sermon on Acts, 
 ii. 1-11. After the sermon two poor Negroes from He 
 Fouquet were brought to me to be baptized. They were 
 from my audience of the previous evening, and one of them 
 had entreated with weeping that he might be brought. I 
 baptized them by the names of Onesimus and John, feel- 
 ing very hopeful, especially about the former, who re- 
 sponded most fervently to the exhortation at the end of 
 the service. The young officers kindly gave them some 
 nice clothes afterwards. It was a happy service. 
 
 We were well through the pass by twelve, that time 
 of day being chosen because of the light for the patches 
 of coral. I felt thankful, on leaving that group of islands 
 behind, that three of them, the only islands with men on 
 them. He Fouquet, He Boddam, and He Anglaise, had 
 been visited by me in peace, and I trust wdth a blessing. 
 The Questions on Religion, translated by my old pupil 
 He Putron, were given for all the islands. Preached in 
 the afternoon on the prayer of Jabez. Afterwards there 
 was a most lovely moonlight evening. 
 
 Mo7idaij, June IWi. — We anchored off Eagle Island, 
 but I did not land. There are sixteen men on the island, 
 and I saw five of them on board. The prospect of a use- 
 less wetting in the surf, and not feeling well after a 
 wakeful night, and a tendency to shivering, kept me on 
 board. I thoroughly catechised the three men who re-
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 139 
 
 mained on board, two of whom were Protestants, and 
 taught them as one would children the verse, ^^ Je suis le 
 chemin, la verite^ et la vie ; personne iie vient au Pere que 
 par moi/'' It was one of the best opportunities I have had. 
 They were natives of Galega, taught by Mr. Le Brun in 
 Mauritius. When the boats came back a Yacoas man, 
 living close to Mr. De Joux, was with them. I gave them 
 all tracts. It was a beautiful sight to watch their little 
 pirogue going through the sui'f. 
 
 Tuesday, June I4:th. — Off Six Islands aU night, having 
 made them the evening before. We worked quite round 
 them to the pass in the morning, but there was not suffi- 
 cient water for the ship. In the water near the pass was 
 a large devil-fish. Even when inside the circular reef, in 
 the boat, there was need of great care to avoid the patches 
 of coral, on which the sea often broke on both sides of us. 
 We met the administrator, Mr. Ribault, coming out to us, 
 and took him into our boat, and learned from him that 
 his wife and nephew were ill, and several of the labourers, 
 and that there had been much difficulty at various times 
 in the supply from Mauritius. On landing, I found that 
 the nephew, a man of about forty, knew me well, from 
 having once come to the vestry at Port Louis, and 
 had a long conversation with me. Several people were 
 here who knew Mr. Le Brun and Mr. Banks. I had 
 many opportunities of conversing with the people, and 
 explaining tracts which I gave them. The most interest- 
 ing incident in the day was the nsit to a chapel, built by 
 a Malegache convert, named Celestin Cyriacus, opposite
 
 140 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 to his own caze, where he intended to gather as many as 
 would come for united worship. Others had spoken 
 to me of him as able to teach, but negligent. He and 
 another Malegache came to me afterwards, expressing 
 their need of books. A desire for knowledge of the right 
 way is wonderfully spread among these poor people. We 
 brought away Madame R , her nephew, and others. 
 
 TVednesday, June 16th. — This morning early, Diego 
 Garcia was on our port bow. We stood towards the Point 
 Maria Ann, then to Minni Minni, the estate on the 
 opposite side. Mr. Mainguy, the manager, came out to 
 meet us, and treated us with the most entire hospitality. 
 He gave me a fine pig, which I sent to the ship's crew, 
 and a basket of oranges and lemons. At three o'clock in 
 the afternoon we had a solid breakfast, but I resisted the 
 urgent and often-pressed invitation to dine at seven. 
 
 Mr. Barry, the manager of Point Maria Ann estate, 
 and Mr. E-egnaud, manager of South -East Point estate, 
 came over also. There was much expression of courtesy 
 and kindness from them all, and to each other. I went 
 among the people and spoke a good deal with them. 
 One of the slaves captured in the "Lily" was there, cate- 
 chised by Mr. Banks, and he remembered a good part of 
 the Belief and the Lord's Prayer in English. Several 
 causes tend to produce a bad state of morals among the 
 labourers ; though, as far as physical comfort and supply 
 went, they seemed to be remarkably well off. Spent a 
 quiet evening on board. 
 
 Thursday, June \Q>th. — Early this morning I landed
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 141 
 
 at Mr. Mainguy'sj with Mr. Medlycott acd ^Ir. Marindinj 
 and then walked to South-East Point estate, about three 
 miles distant. "We met near the habitation an old Bombay 
 Malabar, who had been for thirteen years palefrenier in 
 Port Louis, and who would rejoice in a teacher. It was 
 very touching to see his countenance as he called out to 
 me after we parted, entreating me to send him one who 
 could show them the right way. 
 
 Monsieur and Madame Regnaud, and their four 
 children, occupied the spacious house, in front of which 
 many mills were at work pressing out the oil. I never 
 met with more cordial hospitality and kindness. Mon- 
 sieur and Madame Bertin were in a pavilion close by. 
 We were quite prepared by our walk for the excellent 
 breakfast they gave us. Near the house is a nice garden, 
 in front of which there were ver}^ large banian and other 
 trees, and in the garden were date -trees, orange -trees, 
 lemons, bananas, and vegetables of many kinds. There 
 are more Malabars here than in any of the other islands. 
 I spoke to several in Creole, chiefly Madrassees. One of 
 them broke into downright laughter when I spoke of the 
 folly of idolatry; describing the piece of wood, part to bm-n, 
 part carved into the figure of a man, and then worshipped. 
 It was veiy touching to hear one say, " My father and 
 mother never taught me the right way, and at Mauritius, 
 during nine years, no one ever taught me.^^ 
 
 The medium for my tracts at this place was a woman 
 named Eugenie, a former pupil of Mr. Anderson, to 
 whom I gave books and tracts. I baptized a little child.
 
 142 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Eugenie and others being present. I was obliged to de- 
 cline an invitation to dinner^ and being rowed to the ship 
 in one of Mr. Barry's boats^ found a man who could 
 read well, a pupil of Mr. Jenkins^ and gave him tracts 
 and a Bible for the English sailor. 
 
 Friday J June 17 th. — Went off with Mr. Hart and 
 Mr. Pitt, at a quarter-past seven, to the Point Maria Ann 
 estate, about three-quarters of an hour's sailing in the 
 whaler with a fair wind. We had to get into pirogues 
 to be pushed on shore, the water being very shallow. 
 On the way we saw another large devil-fish at the surface 
 of the water, and the men told us afterwards that it some- 
 times upset their pirogues when suddenly disturbed or 
 struck. I felt the sun a good deal this morning, but had 
 much conversation with the inhabitants of the camp. On 
 landing, I had asked an old Negro on the beach whether 
 any one amongst them knew the right way to heaven. " Y 
 enna de monde ici qui connait bon 9imin di ciel?'' His 
 reply, very earnestly given, was, — "Ein di monde la 
 haut connait morgeau, mais son soeur li connait beaucoup 
 mieux.'' — " A man up there knows it a little, but his 
 sister knows it a great deal better.'' I was truly thankful 
 to find that the man was Eudoxe Le Bon, reported to be a 
 good workman, and that his sister or half-sister, Pelagic 
 Figaro, about twelve years of age, was a well-known 
 Vacoas pupil. She knew me directly and seemed quite 
 pleased to see me. I made her read out one of the 
 tracts, w^hich she did very nicely, and sang the first verse 
 of the Vacoas hymn-book, —
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 143 
 
 " Accoiirez tons a la bonne nouvelle, 
 Car a vous tons le salut est preche, 
 Jesus s'est approche ; 
 
 II vous appelle ; 
 Toumez done votre coeur 
 Vers le Sauveur." 
 
 As I left her caze, an old woman of Mr. Le Brun's 
 congi'egation came out to me^ and on my second ^nsit to 
 the camp I found Pelagie reading aloud the Questions 
 on Religion, translated by my former pupil^ the Rev. P. 
 De Putron ; the old woman, with her spectacles on, look- 
 ing over her, and others listening. On a third visit I 
 saw her seated with five other girls around her, and then 
 she wrote a letter for me to bring to her friends here. I 
 had many opportunities of explaining and giving away 
 tracts here. One of the readers had been taught by Mr. 
 Clark and ^Ir. De la Fontaine. 
 
 Some shells were given me by Mr. Barry, in one of 
 whose boats I came off, feeling rather sick. The nide 
 singing of the men, preceded by the blowing of a shell 
 with a deep trumpet-sound, was interrupted at interv'als 
 by some descriptions from the narrative in the Gospels 
 about the Lake of Tiberias. Two men, brothers of one 
 on board, whom we had brought from Six Islands, all 
 belonging to Mr. Le Brunts congregation, came to the 
 ship with us. I gave several copies of the "Hymnes de 
 PEglise Anglicane.^^ 
 
 Saturday, June ISth. — I am wi'iting this out of sight 
 of Diego Garcia, which we quitted about noon. I went on 
 shore early to breakfast with Mr. Mainguy, Mr. Caldwell
 
 144 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 accompanying me, and liad a long walk alone at the back of 
 the house, remembering the first of the Psalms for the day, 
 the ninetieth ; and on quitting recollected the next, the 
 ninety-first. I hope this evening to go over that one 
 which I so often read at family prayers on Saturday even- 
 ing, the ninety-second. I visited the camp again, saw 
 Amelie, and promised her some books and hymns, which 
 I afterwards sent by Mr. Mainguy. Saw several sick 
 persons and others, and repeated the substance of my 
 former exhortations to them. 
 
 The Captain and Mr. Hill, and Mr. Maule, joined us 
 at breakfast, and we departed laden with presents. To 
 me, a turkey, six capons, two ducks, oranges and shells, 
 from the managers generally; to the crew, a large pig; and 
 to the captain and officers, baskets of poultry, two turkeys, 
 two turtles, &c. I left them with a very deep impression 
 of their great kindness and hospitality, and in the hope 
 that good seed had been sown, and its growth in other 
 cases stimulated. Another man to-day knew Mr. De 
 Joux and Mr. Jenkins. It is dehghtful now to feel that 
 we are really on the way home. 
 
 Trinity Sunday, June I9th. — At one o'clock this 
 morning Mr. Hart came and woke me, saying the poor 
 gentleman was just dead (Mr. Ribault's nephew from the 
 Six Islands). I found he was not quite dead, and spoke 
 to and prayed with him. About an hour afterwards he 
 died. Who would have thought, when I had a long con- 
 versation with him in the vestry some three years ago, 
 that that interview would prove preparatory to my minis-
 
 VISITATION TOUR TO THE CHAGOS ISLANDS. 145 
 
 tering to liis dying wants in the middle of the Indian 
 Ocean ! His poor aunt and her daughter were sadly 
 distressed. The waves were high and wind strong in the 
 morning. The sermon was on Rev. iv. 3, "There w^as 
 a rainbow round about the throne/' and the funeral was 
 immediately afterwards. In the afternoon^ squalls of 
 wind and rain came on so strongly that we could have 
 no service. It is long since I have had only one service 
 on a Sunday. 
 
 Friday, June 24ith. — At noon^ we were 117 miles from 
 Mauritius, and we made out the light on Flat Island at 
 midnight. 
 
 Saturday, June 2Dth. — We reached Port Louis. The 
 island looked most beautiful and attractive as we ap- 
 proached. Captain Wales and Mr. Wiehe reported all 
 wxll. Corporal Sealy came with a kind message from the 
 men, and three cheers were very heartily given. I felt 
 parting with them all much. Off to Pailles with Mr. 
 Wiehe. Yery delicious is the feeling of grateful satis- 
 faction on reaching my home again, and finding all well. 
 They had only heard of our arrival a few minutes before. 
 God be praised for all His mercies !
 
 146 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 
 
 A.D. 1860, 1861, 1862. 
 
 The fact that sucli a variety of subjects needed attention 
 at once^ and that we had to attempt so many churches 
 and schools in so short a space of time, made it necessary 
 for me to visit England, to press on the notice of friends 
 and brethren at home the claims which we had on their 
 sympathy and help. On the 13th of June, 1860, I landed 
 at Southampton; on the 14th, I was at a meeting in Pad- 
 dington ; on the 23d of March, 1861, I left England 
 again, having spoken at a meeting at Chilham on the 
 22nd; and the whole of the intervening nine months 
 was occupied, without a single week's intermission, in ad- 
 vocating the cause for which I had come home. In the 
 Channel Islands, in every part of England, and in several 
 places in Ireland, this work was carried on. The result 
 was very gratifying in the amount of support elicited; 
 and the warmest interest was expressed by many in hear- 
 ing of the work of the Church of England in what had 
 been to them comparatively unknown lands. My absence 
 from the diocese had barely exceeded eleven months; for
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 147 
 
 T had landed at the Seychelles and discussed some of the 
 matters connected with the Church and Schools on the 
 12th of May, 1860; and on the 18th of April, 1861, 1 was 
 at the same place, settling with the then Commissioner, 
 Capt. Wade, some of the details of the same business. 
 
 On reaching Mauritius, I felt the effects of the ardu- 
 ous work I had had in Europe ; and on several occasions 
 I was led to fear that I might be compelled to leave my 
 work from failure of strength. In God's mercy this result 
 was avoided, and I was able to attend to the various mat- 
 ters described in the following journal extracts. To make 
 plain some allusions in those extracts, it will be necessary 
 briefly to describe some of the events which had happened 
 while I was absent. A great revival of the Slave Trade 
 had taken place on the eastern coast of Africa, and several 
 dhows, with slaves on board, had been captured by her 
 Majesty's cruisers — chiefly by the " Lynx" and the " Gor- 
 gon.'' Between eight and nine hundred of these, mostly 
 youths of both sexes, had been landed in Mauritius ; and 
 more than a hundred had been placed in the Powder Mills 
 Asylum — an excellent institution, founded by the Governor, 
 Sir William Stevenson, in which orphan children of 
 Negro or Indian parents w^ere taken care of, taught, and 
 trained in industrial pursuits. The whole was placed 
 under the charge of the Rev. P. Ansorge, a zealous mis- 
 sionary, whose long labours in Bengal, and earnest love 
 for the poor Indians, marked him out as the fit person to 
 undertake such an office. Nearly all the children were 
 Indians before I left in 1860; but the arrival of so many
 
 148 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Africans made it seem advisable to place some of their 
 number there. It was most sad to find that a great pro- 
 portion of them died, notwithstanding all the tenderness 
 and care with which they were treated ; so that, after a 
 few months, not quite fifty were left. 
 
 I must now describe my approach to the islands, on 
 my return. On Monday, April 15, 1861, we were about 
 six hundred miles north of the Seychelles. My journal 
 then begins : — 
 
 " Yesterday was a very quiet, soothing day ; we had 
 smooth water, a quiet ship, good singing, and attentive 
 congregations. I took in the morning, John, x. 11, — ^ I 
 am the Good Shepherd;^ in the evening, Amos, iv. 12, 
 — ^ Because I will do this unto thee, prepare to meet thy 
 God, Israel.'' There is great comfort in the really ex- 
 tempore method of preaching on such occasions. In the 
 morning it came in quite naturally, when I was speaking 
 of the valley to be trodden at last by us all, for me 
 to tell of the intelligence I received at Marseilles of the 
 death of two young men, one a clergyman and the other 
 a merchant (Mr. Balls, of the Liverpool Collegiate In- 
 stitution, and Mr. Wilberforce Hodgson). One feels 
 a reality in conversing thus, about facts of everyday life, 
 which makes it comparatively easy to make a plain 
 application of religious truth. 
 
 *^ Aprnl 16th. — This has been one of the chequered 
 days which we have at sea : a strong breeze early and a 
 good run of 244 miles ; then a stoppage in the machinery, 
 
 J
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 149 
 
 and all our hopes of getting to the Seychelles to-morrow 
 checked. The heat is great, and the breeze unrefresh- 
 ing ; the sea-water is 86° of heat. I felt much of the 
 tropical sleepy weakness this morning. We are now going 
 at half-speed, that we may not come upon Dennis Island 
 in the dark. Last year I left my work on the 1.2th of 
 May, and this year I am likely to resume it on the 18th 
 of April. This is one advantage of the Seychelles being 
 in the line of route. The heat is very great to-day, 
 
 '^ Ap7'il 16th. — Yesterday was one of those inter- 
 esting days in which the field of my work is brought 
 clearly to my \'iew in several of its aspects, — some of 
 them suggesting much encouragement, others reminding 
 me how little has been done, in comparison with that 
 which remains to be done. At about eight o'clock in 
 the morning we made Dennis Island, which is one of 
 the few coral islands in the group ; and as I looked 
 at the trees, seeming to stand out of the water (the only 
 parts of the island \dsible for some time), I was vi\'idly 
 reminded of the description which I have given so often, 
 during the last year, of the first appearance of those 
 gems of the ocean. A white coral beach, large tracts 
 covered with thick bushes, and a few cocoa-palms here 
 and there, were the only features of the scenerj^ of the 
 island itself; and then, at each end, there was the long, 
 dangerous reef, over which the large breakers were foaming. 
 We passed abreast of the island in its whole length, and 
 then came upon very difi'erent scener}^, — Silhouette and 
 Mahe on one side, Praslin and Curieuse on the other.
 
 150 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Lofty mountains, sloping hills, deep valleys, spacious bays, 
 luxuriant vegetation, were all scanned with the naked eye, 
 or by the help of our glasses, with an interest intensely 
 increased from our knowledge of the localities and of the 
 people, and of the work going on amongst them. At one 
 point we had the sea between Praslin and Curieuse well 
 open, and could make out the recess where we had landed, 
 the mountain we had climbed, and then, after an interval, 
 the palm-grove where the church stands, and the long beach 
 and magnificent valley, which was the scene of our four 
 hours and a-half walk in 1856. As we neared Mahe, 
 and came to the point where several islets appear to be 
 joined to the mainland, we were all struck with that view 
 as the most beautiful of any, the shadows of evening 
 showing us some effects which we had not witnessed 
 before. 
 
 There was a little delay in the Medical Superintend- 
 ent's visit, so that we could not go on shore for half an 
 hour, and we were on board again at about seven ; hence 
 our time on shore only extended to about an hour and 
 a-half: but it was very interesting indeed. In the first 
 place, I had time for a good deal of practical conversa- 
 tion wdth Dr. Fallet on the work of his mission, as well 
 as on matters more especially touching himself, having 
 seen some of his friends in Paris. Madame Fallet we 
 were very sorry to find not wtII. She was away with 
 friends in the country. The schoolmaster, Mr. Deny 
 Calais, had gone out to meet us in the ship, but we had 
 missed him. The boys, however, found out that I was
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 151 
 
 come, and I wdsh our friends in England could have 
 seen the way in which, w^ithout any teacher, they formed 
 themselves into a little body, and won the golden opinions 
 of all our passengers, by their respectful salutations of 
 them as they passed. One elderly French gentleman was 
 so pleased, that he came to me to express his pleasure, 
 — '^ Ce sont la les premiers elements de la politesse,^' 
 was one of his remarks. A httle further on the girls 
 were assembled, and when we got to the school we found 
 strips of ground in front of it planted w^ith roses and 
 other flowers by the children themselves. By this time, 
 many of our friends had come out of their houses to 
 greet us; and when we got to the school, I ga^-e some 
 very pretty reading-cards with pictures, sent from Cam- 
 bei-well for the purpose, dividing them equally between 
 the two schools. Mrs. Ryan gave a few bags, with scis- 
 sors, needles, &c., to the first girls, two of them being 
 most gladly received by young women from Belombre, 
 who are doing well now that they have a school there, 
 and one bag being taken by the mistress (Madame 
 Knowles), quite as eagerly as by her pupils. These helps 
 to industiy had been provided by a friend in Lancaster. 
 A bag from New Brighton, with many useful articles for 
 girls, furnished L. with gifts for many of the other girls. 
 It was a bright hour for them, and they looked greatly 
 pleased. I wish we could have stayed a fortnight, because 
 they so wished it ; and there was so much that was in- 
 teresting and encouraging in what we saw of former 
 pupils of the schools. At present there are fifty-nine
 
 152 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 boys and sixty-nine girls at Mahe.* I told tliem I 
 hoped to come next year for a confirmation, and to stay 
 with them longer. 
 
 We passed on to Government House, Captain Wade 
 being with us. The contrast between his present lonely 
 position and the circumstances under which we saw him 
 before was very painful. He was much pleased that I 
 had seen his children in London. 
 
 On our way up we had met Mr. Collie and his son, 
 and Mr. Forbes, the Superintendent of the Lepers' 
 Island, who asked me if I had brought the large-type 
 Bible which I had promised him ; thus reminding me of 
 one of those omissions which are so easily made, but so in- 
 excusable. I hope to repair the omission when I get back 
 to Mauritius. From him I learned, with much regret, 
 of the death of Prosper, the Negro mentioned in previous 
 journals, who attended to the other lepers in various 
 ways, and had acted as a teacher among them. It is 
 pleasant now to remember that, at my last visit to that 
 island in 1859, I had so fully explained to him the 
 meaning of the lifting up of the brazen serpent. What 
 changes are ever occurring in all the scenes *of human 
 action and suffering ! 
 
 After a few minutes' rest at Government House we 
 went to the Cemetery and to the Flag-staff, the views on 
 all sides being, as ever, wonderfully beautiful. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Higginson were with us, it being their first visit to 
 
 * Three sisters of some Romish order have now gone to the 
 Seychelles, but have only withdrawn one pupil.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. ] 53 
 
 the Seyclielles, which Sir James Higginson had visited 
 alone during his government, and had always expressed 
 much interest in. After looking at a fine specimen of 
 the leaf-fly we visited the church, which is now nicely 
 finished. How thankful I again felt, as I stood within 
 that sacred edifice, to think of the way in which God had 
 prospered our endeavours for His truth in that island ! 
 Many of the people had gathered there, and Mrs. Hig- 
 ginson said she was powerfully reminded of the descrip- 
 tion in the Acts, when they all accompanied us to the 
 boat which was to take us back. The signal-gun hurried 
 our steps. We paid a parting visit to Dr. and Mrs. 
 Brooks, who had come to meet us in the ship, and 
 brought a most acceptable present of excellent oranges 
 from Silhouette, and then, with many parting good 
 wishes (five or six hands being held out at a time, with 
 '^ Bonne sante, bon voyage ^^), and hopes that we would 
 stop longer next time, we started. Mrs. Ryan, Mrs. 
 Higginson, and L., with the Captain, Mr. Higginson 
 and the Doctor with me, in a boat pulled along man- 
 fully by four strong Seychelles boatmen ; the coxswain, 
 who is an ^Englishman, reminding me of my visit in the 
 '^ Frolic,'^ in 1856. It was moonhght ; we went right 
 over the reefs, and could see the sparkling coral bottom 
 for a great part of the way, and we got on board at about 
 seven, with our lemons, some of which the Negro boys 
 had darted into the woods to get for Vincent and Alfred, 
 together with mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. It was with a 
 renewed feeling of loving interest in the temporal and
 
 154 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 eternal welfare of their inhabitants that we left those 
 beautiful islands, to which, in times past, the words of 
 Bishop Heber had often been applied, — 
 
 " Where every prospect pleases, 
 And only man is vile." 
 
 April 2Srd. — We have just sighted one of the peaks 
 of Mauritius, and one of the islands near it. I am 
 very thankful for this. The last few days especially, I 
 have felt relaxed by the heat. How many mercies are 
 we reminded of by the sight of the land which we 
 left on the 7th of May last year ! What an amount of 
 blessing we have received since then ! May I return 
 to this arduous post very dependent on that blessing 
 from above ! 
 
 I must try, before we leave the ship, to finish my 
 journal. On Saturday night I managed to get down to 
 the little praying company. It was a great contrast to 
 some meetings for prayer and reading the Scriptures, 
 and the heat of the small cabin was not very easy to bear ; 
 but the refreshment of spirit was truly delightful. I 
 finished Rom. viii. with them, and was greatly encouraged 
 myself. On Sunday it was rough, but we had our 
 services. In the morning I preached on 1 John, i. 7, — 
 " If we walk in the light as He is in the light, we have 
 fellowship one with another; and the blood of Jesus 
 Christ His Son cleanseth us from all sin,^^ — taking as 
 the heads, — light, fellowship, pardon: beginning with 
 the last, and suiting the address to the Collect for the day.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 155 
 
 In the evening I took as my subject Psalm c. The Cap- 
 tain thanked me very warmly afterwards. It was a great 
 relief to me to have ended well the four Sundays and 
 the Good Friday of our voyage. Perhaps I am rather 
 too apprehensive beforehand about these services; but 
 so much might happen to hinder them, that I am 
 very thankful when I have preached and they have 
 hstened. 
 
 April 24:th. — We anchored at about half-past nine last 
 night, but as no doctor came off we went to bed at 
 about eleven; Mr. Bichard having come in a boat, and 
 remained within speaking distance some time. This 
 morning, before daylight, I was roused from sleep by the 
 announcement that Mr. Bichard was on board, and I had 
 a long conversation with him before sunrise. We came 
 on shore with Mr. Wiehe, after meeting many friends on 
 board; visited the church (which is much improved), 
 breakfasted with Mr. Wiehe, and then went out to 
 Pailles, where we found the house quite renovated after 
 the hurricane. And now I have come back to to\Mi in 
 order to preach to-night. I am entering on my work 
 with a deep feeling of my need of the prayers which bring 
 down the prevailing grace of God. Some most en- 
 couraging facts have been told me already; others are 
 the reverse. One item of intelligence I must not omit. 
 Five sailors from the hospital, on Sunday last, got a boat 
 to go to Mr. Bichard^ s service at the Floating Church in 
 the morning, and the same in the evening. To a man 
 simply seeking the salvation of immortal souls, such a fact
 
 156 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 was most encouraging. Captain Ilarmer is now appointed 
 Superintendent of the Sailors' Home. 
 
 April 25M. — This morning V. J. and I were in at 
 eighty having previously had a most refreshing bathe. 
 Prosper does not look so well. All the poor people are 
 delighted to see us^ and from various parts Negroes have 
 already been either to the vestry or to Failles. This 
 morning, as we were driving in, a man with his hat off, 
 bowing and smiling almost under the ponies' heads, 
 proved to be one of my Malegache friends. We hear a 
 most encouraging account of Vacoas. Before the mail 
 goes I hope to send several accounts besides that of Sey- 
 chelles, for I shall try to get about the country more than 
 I did, and not to come so often into town. Two meetings 
 fall on this day — one of the clergy at twelve, the other of 
 the Mauritius Church Association. How^ thankful I feel 
 to have such a report to give them ! 
 
 April 29tli. — Yesterday was to me a very solemn day. 
 The expression in the Collect, " the sundry and manifold 
 changes of the world,'' had a very real meaning and power- 
 ful emphasis to my mind. The sad changes of the past 
 year, and the sweeping changes of the last six years, were 
 too much in my thoughts for me to be able to refrain 
 from enlarging on the subject. The greetings in the 
 vestry were congregational afterwards. 
 
 This morning, one of my first visits was from a woman 
 of rather respectable appearance, with her two sons. She 
 was fearfully affected with leprosy. Eleven Negroes were 
 here at once just now^ I find the elder of the two brothers.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 157 
 
 whom I SO often spoke of — who had been stolen from 
 their homes at different times, and then met in Mauritius, 
 and who had a third brother here — is dead, so that both 
 are gone now. I do not know that, of all the sad and 
 harrowing accounts I have heard or read of the slave- 
 trade, any came to my mind with such thrilling effect as 
 Mrs. Stevenson^s simple description of the poor children 
 who were placed at the home at Powder Mills, after being 
 rescued from the slave-ship, and whom no one could com- 
 fort in their wailing for their mothers, from whom they 
 had been stolen. It is a great relief to feel that, as 
 far as we can, we are now trying to remedy such fearful 
 wrongs. 
 
 Vacoas. — On Tuesday, April 30th, Vincent and I 
 rode up to Beau Bassin, to breakfast with Captain and 
 Mrs. Brownrigg, many of whose friends and relations we 
 had seen in England. Mrs. Byan, L., and X., came on 
 in a small carriage. It is a place which always recals the 
 great mercy which we experienced there in 1855, when 
 Vincent^ s first solid aaiendment from his dangerous 
 illness took place. Captain Brownrigg could not come 
 on to Vacoas with us, as he had to attend a meeting of 
 the Legislative Council in town, but he kindly sent part 
 of us on in his carriage, and ]\Ir. Wiehe came just before 
 twelve and took the others. 
 
 At Vacoas we found many traces of the severe hur- 
 ricane of February last ; amongst others, the WTCck of our
 
 158 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 former Industrial School workshop. But we were cheered 
 by unmistakeable evidences of solid improvement. An 
 excellent school-room, built of stone, with more than fifty- 
 boys present, and more than forty girls, with the usual 
 accompaniment of the parents or grandparents of some of 
 the children, and several of our former scholars. The 
 whole of that building is the work of our Industrial 
 School. Mrs. De Joux and Miss De Joux have been able 
 lately to secure the help of a really efficient master and 
 mistress, and the result of their combined exertions was 
 as gratifying as could be desired — far more so than I 
 could have expected, knowing the difficulties they have to 
 contend with. The decency and neatness of the children's 
 dress, the soft and even melodious greeting from them all, 
 as we entered, in English; their singing,' while Miss De 
 Joux played on the harmonium given by j\Ir, Wiehe ; the 
 precise accuracy with which they pronounced the words of 
 the Morning Hymn in English, and afterwards of the 
 hymn, "Louez le Nom de PEternel,^' in French; their 
 perfect repetition of the Creed and the Lord^s Prayer, 
 and their reading in English and in French, and repetition 
 of various parts of Scripture, and then their hearty sing- 
 ing of "God Save the Queen,'' — made me wash most 
 earnestly that some of our kind friends at home could 
 have seen them, and heard what we did from their lips. 
 The fact of Miss De Joux's blindness seemed more strik- 
 ing than ever as we witnessed the perfect control under 
 which she had them, and the teaching powder which she
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 159 
 
 manifested. The moral and mental progress seemed to 
 be in keeping with the material advancement made ; and 
 I have a good hope that^ with God^s blessing, our work 
 will stand fast, and become a centre of usefulness in every 
 aspect of Christian training — the information of the 
 mind, the discipline of the conduct, and the preparation 
 for useful pursuits. 
 
 The hymn just mentioned I will give in this place, — 
 
 " Louez le Nom de I'Eternel, 
 
 Celebrez Le dans vos cantiques, 
 Que votre chant soit solennel, 
 
 Et vos paroles magnifiques. 
 Lui seul est grand, Lui seul est saint ; 
 
 C'est par Lui seul que tout subsiste ; 
 A son pouvoir rien ne resiste ; 
 
 Lui seul aussi doit etre craint. 
 
 Devant ce Roi de I'univers, 
 
 S'evanouit toute j)uissance ; 
 II va parler ; terres et mers ! 
 
 Ecoutez-le dans le silence. 
 II enrichit, II appauvrit, 
 
 II agrandit, II humilie ; 
 Rappelle-t-il a soi la vie, 
 
 L'homme aussitdt tombe et perit. 
 
 Ce Dieu si grand, si glorieux, 
 
 De nous, Chretiens, s'est fait le Pere ; 
 Son bien-aime, des plus hauts cieux, 
 
 Est descendu sur notre terre, 
 Et dans sa grande charite, 
 
 n nous a, par son sacrifice, 
 Acquis le don de la justice. 
 
 La vie et Timmortalite.
 
 160 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Confions-nous en son pouvoir, 
 
 Xe craignous point ; II est fidele. 
 Son prompt secours nous fera voir 
 
 Que sa promesse est eternelle. 
 Oui, notre Roi garde ses saints 
 
 Sous le sceptre de sa puissance ; 
 Ah ! remettons en assurance 
 
 Tout notre esprit entre ses mains." 
 
 An excellent piece of ground is now secured. At one 
 extremity the new industrial atelier is begun — stone- 
 work at each end^ and wooden in the centre ; then comes 
 the school mentioned above ; then we hope to have the 
 school and the minister's residence. None but a man of 
 Mr. De Joux's devoted attachment to bis work would 
 have remained in such a residence as that which he has 
 now occupied for several years. 
 
 Several pleasing incidents added much interest to 
 the visit. First of all_, we found Pelagic there. She had 
 recently arrived from Diego Garcia, and on hearing that 
 we were coming to Vacoas, came and took her place among 
 her former school-fellows. She seemed very pensive and 
 quiet. I found that, after my visit to Diego, she had 
 read the prayers, &c. regularly on the Sundays. Her 
 mother's return to Mauritius is the reason of her being 
 here. Mr. De Joux also brought to my notice three little 
 girls, one of whom I had long known as a good and pro- 
 mising child, and on questioning them, I found out the 
 touching circumstances to which he had alluded in one of 
 his letters to me, connected with the dying hours of one 
 of their schoolfellows — a child, I believe, of about eight
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 161 
 
 years old. It seems that they often visited her, and on 
 one night, when the parents were thoroughly exhausted 
 and gone to rest, these little girls remained up with the 
 sick child, and read passages from St. Mark, from the 
 First Epistle to the Corinthians, and the Thessalonians, 
 on the resurrection, &c. None but those who have seen 
 these children in their uncared-for state can rightly esti- 
 mate the preciousness of such results as these. Another 
 very interesting incident was our visit to Sarradie^s caze. 
 We found it now in the possession of his daughter and 
 her husband, a converted Chinese — the parents telling 
 me, with much satisfaction, of their arrangement in the 
 matter. They (Jean Sarradie and his wife) are going to 
 live elsewhere. 
 
 A large wooden chapel has been built recently by the 
 Romanists, quite close to our work ; but I feel confident 
 that they are now too late. Those who have been raised, 
 by God's blessing on our efi'orts, from the ignorance and 
 vice in which they were sunk, and who have been taught 
 the authority of the Word of God, and the duties of self- 
 reliant industry, are likely to remain staunch members of 
 the Church through whose instrumentality such benefits 
 have been conferred upon them. Patience, prayer, afi'ec- 
 tionate effort, and watchful perseverance, are needed to 
 secure what w^e have already obtained, and to make 
 further progress in the diffusion of light, and truth, and 
 holiness amongst them in the name of Jesus Christ. 
 
 May \st. — Sarradie was with me on Monday evening, 
 and it was indeed a treat to converse with him — to hear
 
 162 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the story of his services in the Malegache army, and of 
 his coming to Mauritius ; and then to see the earnestness 
 which animated his countenance when I suggested to him 
 the possibility of a return to Madagascar some day. The 
 words ^^ grand plaisir " were repeated four times, with 
 great variety of phrase and intonation of voice ; and I was 
 especially pleased to hear the way in which he spoke of 
 " mon pays 9a.''' 
 
 Powder-Mills Asylum^ May 4:th. — Yesterday, Friday, 
 I visited this institution in company with Mr. Wiehe. 
 V. J. was with us. It was indeed an interesting visit, 
 and full of encouragement. On passing the gate of the 
 premises I found, on the right hand, where there was 
 nothing before but a small shed, used as a carpenter^s 
 shop, and one adjoining for the blacksmith^ s, a large new 
 building of three stories, with accommodation on the 
 ground-floor for the residence of two teachers — (deacon- 
 esses have been sent for from Kaiserswerth) ; on the first 
 story, sleeping accommodation for 40 children, and above 
 that again for 25. Beyond this house, a large and elegant 
 iron shed, where vigorous carpentering was going on, 
 and beyond that a spacious forge. Still further to the 
 right, a set of outhouses for the attendants. Between 
 these and the old buildings, a new hospital ; behind the 
 hospital, garden-ground, allotted to the children at their 
 own request, nicely fenced in by them, and carefully cul- 
 tivated. Mr. Ansorge has cheerfully resigned two of the 
 rooms which had been given for his own dwelling, and all
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 163 
 
 was filled by the increase in the number of the pupils. A 
 body of tailors, and one of basketmakers (boys), filled the 
 verandah; and in the girls^ room there were 33 (the larger 
 portion Indian), — all of whom, except the youngest, were 
 employed in sewing. I took upon me to look at the 
 sewing, especially that of the poor little Africans. It was 
 surprising to me to see what they could do, after what I 
 had heard of their savage state when they landed. The 
 singing was most touching, especially '"'^From Egypt lately 
 come,^^ which they sang ^' From India lately come.^^ The 
 first classes, boys and girls, read well in English, and 
 answered questions admirably. In their Indian language 
 they seemed to read with great fluency and emphasis. I 
 feel truly thankful that such success has attended our 
 kind Governor's and Mrs. Stevenson's earnest and per- 
 severing care for those poor oi-phans. One poor little 
 thing was pointed out to me, whose father is imprisoned 
 for twenty years, for having murdered her mother. 
 
 The simultaneous development of the material and the 
 moral progress of the Institution was most encouraging 
 to witness, and the value of such labourers as Mr. and 
 Mrs. Ansorge very emphatically shown. 
 
 But the chief interest of the day was the examination 
 of the state of the poor liberated Africans. The account 
 of the method of the capture of the children, as described 
 by themselves to the interpreter, a man who came here 
 voluntarily some few years ago, was very heart-rending. 
 Until the interpreter came, no one knew what they \Yanted. 
 " Amai, amai,'' was their unceasing wail, and it was found
 
 164 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the word meant mother. More than forty died^ and we 
 saw three yesterday who do not seem likely to recover. 
 But the stronger ones now look happy, and the greatest 
 care is taken of them. 
 
 I could not help saying to Mr. Wiehe, as we looked 
 at the place yesterday, that if we had proposed in our 
 conversation six years ago, such appliances — so provided, 
 so prospered — it would have seemed just like a dream. 
 How abundant are the mercies of God to those who strive 
 to do His will, and carry out His purposes of love ! What 
 a rich reward to Mr. and Mrs. Ansorge for all their pity, 
 and prayers, and pains, for poor orphans around them ! 
 
 So much with reference to yesterday, and now I have 
 to tell of the discovery I have made to-day. Some 
 twelve or thirteen Negroes, men and women, came to 
 pay me a visit this morning. A Malegache employed 
 in selling Bibles also came, and with our own people we 
 had about fifty at our service — singing, exposition, ques- 
 tions, and prayer. After the service I sat down among 
 the people and told them of what I had seen yesterday. 
 They were deeply interested. From their own experience 
 they corroborated what I said about the children's grief, 
 and told me how sacks were put over the head, or flour 
 thrust into the mouth, to prevent crying out — how chil- 
 dren were seized on the road, and taken away " as far as 
 Plaines AVilhems from here,'' into the jungle, and then 
 " papa, maman, roder cimin (chemin) pour zenfants,'' 
 but did not find them, of course ; they were " dans li 
 hois/' &c. I questioned them about their country, which
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 165 
 
 they described as a plain without a stone in it, the moun- 
 tains being in the distance. They described the elephant, 
 the " cayman" or crocodile, and the hippopotamus, and 
 the conversation became most animated. I told them of 
 the interpreter at Powder Mills, and that he was of the 
 Macquoas. " "V^Tiy," they said, " that is our language ! " 
 "Do you remember it?" I asked. "Quite well." 
 " What is the word for mother ?" " Mayaga." " Then 
 what is amai?'' "That is mother, too." I turned to the 
 Polyglotta Africana, given me by the Church Missionary 
 Society Committee, and under the head " Matatan," I find 
 that mother is either amai or mayaga. This gave me the 
 clue. I named many other words in their language, to 
 which they gave the equivalent ci^eole ; and old Prosper^s 
 memory is wonderful, after his long absence. Many of 
 the others evidently remember their language well, and I 
 hope now that we shall be able to learn an East- African 
 language in Mauritius. It is, indeed, a delightful 
 discovery. 
 
 Tuesday, May \^th. — I went with Mrs. Stevenson, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Marindin, to visit this institution, and 
 had time more fully to examine into the progress made 
 by the children. The Indian portion of them gave abun- 
 dant proof of the care and skill with which they are 
 taught and trained. Their reading, their intelligent 
 answers on the subject before them, the neat writing, and 
 the accurate ciphering, were all in keeping with the 
 neatness and comfort of their appearance, and the order 
 and activity which they showed in the workshops. But,
 
 166 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 as usual, it was especially in the singing that I was so 
 much impressed with their progress. They sang especi- 
 ally the hymn — 
 
 " O'er the gloomy hills of darkness," 
 to a complicated but very appropriate and animated tune, 
 which reminded me of the afternoon service at Caldwell, 
 near Stapenhill, and of a zealous member of the congre- 
 gation there. What an effect it would have upon the 
 supporters of Missions if they could witness such a sight, 
 and listen to the sweet concert of children's voices 
 sounding forth their desires for others to know that 
 Gospel through which they themselves have been brought 
 to the knowledge of God ! Oh that, through God's great 
 mercy, some may be raised up from amongst these boys 
 and girls to become teachers to the heathen of the truth 
 as it is in Jesus ! 
 
 I approached the gallery where the East Africans 
 were gathered with anxious expectation. The Polyglotta 
 Africana was in my hand. I thought I had discovered 
 their language by means of some of our old Negroes, to 
 whom I had spoken several of the words which they 
 readily understood. I began. There was a mass of 
 heavy, inanimate-looking, depressed faces. The moment 
 I pronounced some of the words it was as if an electric 
 flash had passed over them. The glad smile, the glistening 
 eyes, the white teeth, the wondering attention, made us 
 feel that we had the key to their minds. They gave ac- 
 curately the distinction between the face' and the forehead, 
 and with great glee pulled their hair, pointed to the eye,
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AXD MAURITIUS. 167 
 
 tlie nose^ the ear^ &c., as we named the words given in 
 the vocabulary. Their acting was most expressive. At 
 the word '^ I dance/' one of the biggest got up, and 
 suited the action to the word, to the great deUght of the 
 whole gallery. At the word for '^ a gun,^^ one of them 
 mimicked the act of firing. But when the word for 
 ^^ father '^ was given^ it was most touching to see the 
 eager, grateful looks with which they all pointed to Mr. 
 Ansorge, and when the word for ^'mother'' was pro- 
 nounced, they did the same to Mrs. Ansorge. That 
 hearty, spontaneous demonstration of gratitude and affec- 
 tion from those poor rescued slaves, struck me as one of the 
 very highest rewards that those devoted Missionaries could 
 have for their self-denying labours in the name of Christ. 
 It was amusing to see the air which one of the boys put 
 on when Mr. Marindin pronounced the word for " king.^^ 
 He sat up to his full height, folded his arms, and put on 
 a look of stern gravity, which seemed to imply, " See how 
 much I am exalted above those who surround me \'^ They 
 were well acquainted with words imported into their lan- 
 guage from the Portuguese, such as "kamisa'-* (shirt), 
 and they fully understood all about cotton, needles, 
 thread, &c. Mrs. Stevenson was so much pleased with 
 this discovery of the language, that she has taken the 
 Polyglotta to extract that vocabulary, and to have it 
 printed on cards. I should have said, that when we 
 named various tribes, such as Marawi, Muntu, &c.^ they 
 pointed to boys from their number belonging to them, 
 and Nyassa they all knew. Some^ of course, were more
 
 168 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 familiar with their tribal words, but the vocabulary op- 
 posite the name Matatan was best understood. A^Tiat 
 an opening of preparation for work in Eastern Africa this 
 might prove, with God^s blessing — the language and the 
 helpers ! 
 
 Those who heard my statement in England will 
 remember my account of the Mohammedan who came 
 to me in the vestry, and said that he greatly desired, 
 by baptism, to " put on the Lord Jesus Christ/^ On 
 Saturday last I had a most satisfactory interview with 
 him; — one that made me thank God and take courage. 
 He brought me a book of subscriptions for an Indian 
 school, set on foot by himself, of which the patron is the 
 magistrate, whom he has served for some time; the 
 treasurer is a planter near at hand, and the subscribers 
 are the gentry around and labouring Indians. What a 
 blessed result ! just what we hope and pray for — that 
 those who have received the truth themselves will do 
 their utmost to spread the knowledge of it amongst 
 others. I find that he holds a service, a kind of cottage 
 lecture, among the Indians eveiy Sunday. On questioning 
 him further about his early days, he told me, that when 
 first he heard his own religion decried, he felt very much 
 grieved; but as he did not know his own religion, he 
 had to inquire of his mother, who knew it well. He then 
 described his reading the Koran, the instructions of the 
 Missionaries, &c. I promised to help him in his school 
 after I had visited it, and seen its working, and en- 
 couraged him to work on in the cause of that Heavenly
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 169 
 
 Master, who will require of us hereafter an account of 
 our employment of the talents entrusted to our keeping. 
 
 Friday Moiming, May Z\st. — I have just had a deeply- 
 interesting visit from Mr. A., the manager of the estate 
 on He Fouquet, of the Salomon Islands. His report 
 of John and Onesimus is very touching. John had 
 been very regular, and had made good progress in his 
 prayers and in knowledge of the books I had left. Two 
 or three months ago he was drowned in a tideway, when 
 a heavy squall had produced a sudden current. He was 
 quite close to Mr. A., and had laid hold of an oil-barrel, 
 but it twisted with him, and, as he could not s\\dm, he 
 sank. ^' La derniere parole sur ses levres, ce fut le nom 
 de Jesus-Christ.^' How thankful I felt as I heard those 
 words ! 
 
 Ooesimus is dull, but very fervent, constantly coming 
 to Mr. A. and saying, " I shall soon have finished my 
 task, and then you'll have the prayer with me." Mr. A. 
 confesses that sometimes he wearies him with his im- 
 portunity. What a blessed result of those Whitsuntide 
 ministrations in 1859 ! 
 
 Another individual from those islands, about whom 
 I felt very anxious, as so much depended on him, has 
 gone to his rest, after doing his duty well. This was 
 Paul, the Malegache catechist whom I found on He 
 Anglaise. I had sent him, at his earnest request, a 
 French Bible, and strong fears were expressed that it 
 would not reach its destination. I now find that it did, 
 that he had a chapel constructed, and that he had
 
 170 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 prayers and reading the Scripture every evening, in the 
 face of strong opposition from the manager of one of the 
 islands. Not long ago he was attacked by dysentery, 
 and died. Who shall tell what results may be found in 
 the great day of manifestation, from the journey under- 
 taken with so much apprehension, and carried out with 
 so much weakness ? Mr. A. says, '^ Votre visite a fait 
 beaucoup de bien ; '' and he is very earnest on the point 
 of having men who can read and instruct the others 
 sent amongst those islands. 
 
 Bishopstowe, June Wth, 1861. — We started early in 
 the morning to breakfast at Burnside, and thus the 
 arrangements of the day brought us to the same house 
 to which we went the first day we landed in Mauritius, 
 six years before. At prayers I read the Gospel for the 
 day (St. Barnabas'), and afterwards we went to an 
 Indian school, kept up by Mr. Ireland. A very cheer- 
 ing sight it was, the room beautifully decorated with 
 creepers and flowers, and filled with sixty or sixty-one* 
 Indian children, of whom seventeen were girls. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Ansorge were there. The examination was 
 conducted in four languages — Nagri, Bengalee, Tamil, 
 and English; and when they read the 15th chapter of 
 St. Luke, and answered Mr. Ansorge's questions, trans- 
 lated from mine, I felt glad and encouraged. Their 
 eager, sparkling eyes, and animated gestures, as they 
 
 * This is the whole number on the books — all were present. 
 Generally about thirty-six attend ; some two days in the week, 
 and so on.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 171 
 
 answered the questions about the lost sheep and the 
 Good Shepherd, were very cheering to behold; and I 
 had the happy feeling that a well of living water is 
 indeed opened in the midst of the large resident heathen 
 population around. About fifteen adult Christians came 
 in to see it all. Hymns were sung, and prizes dis- 
 tributed. Jean Sarradie, whom I had brought with 
 me, was surprised, and greatly delighted, at finding that 
 work was being done in other parts besides the Vacoas 
 and Black River districts. 
 
 At Pamplemousses we had a very interesting sendee. 
 About seventy persons were present, of whom between 
 twenty and thirty remained for the Sacrament, eight 
 being clergymen. A missionary from India, Mr. Alex- 
 ander, successor to Henry Fox in the Telugu Mission, 
 was there. I preached on St. Barnabas, bringing the 
 different descriptions and allusions in the Acts into one 
 view. It was a very soothing and encouraging subject. 
 In Mr. A^Tieeler's yard the little school had twenty-two 
 black children under Pierre, a pupil of Philippe from 
 Praslin, and a master was present from Villebague, of 
 the name of Miller. 
 
 July 4ith. — The public meeting for the relief of the 
 sufferers from famine in India has turned out to be a 
 very important one. The mayor convened it, and all 
 classes were there. I went prepared to say something 
 of the obligations of Mauritius to India, and was indeed 
 surprised and gratified to find myself forestalled by 
 gentlemen of French origin, as well as others, who
 
 172 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 expressed this in the strongest terms. The act of 
 emancipation was called " Feterncl honneur de notre 
 siecle/' and altogether the statements made and the 
 reasons given were very encouraging. The result has 
 been a large collection, which it is hoped may reach 
 40,000 dollars — showing what the island could do, if 
 only there were a zealous Protestant population here. 
 Our own population has been rather pinched at times 
 from the dearness of rice, but the supply now seems 
 tolerably abundant, and the price rather lower. 
 
 I had a delightful service on board the Mariner's 
 Church on Tuesday, when three from the " Noma" 
 and two captams of ships were confirmed. It was 
 truly comforting to feel that, as far as man can judge, 
 they were sincerely desirous of publicly ratifying a cove- 
 nant really made with God. Requests for a French 
 evening service in the week are made to me, but as 
 yet I must pause. I feel how greatly we need the help 
 of God's grace to enable us to deal with the work before 
 us; and if I often mention this, it is because I so often 
 feel the need of prayer on our behalf. 
 
 Yesterday evening, after the service, ]\Ir. Wiehe told 
 me he had had a most interesting conversation the evening 
 before with a Monsieur L., from Madagascar, who gave 
 an account of the rebellion and bloodshed constantly 
 going on in many parts ; of the hatred felt against the 
 Hovas by the other tribes, of the perseverance of the 
 Christians (all to a man, he said, Protestants), of the 
 firmness of the Prince, and his efi'orts for the Christians.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 173 
 
 The account from Madagascar shows the influence ^Yhich 
 the Prince has, and illustrates the mixture of barbarism 
 and civilisation which prevails. There seems to be no 
 truth in any of the reports — some of them very recent — 
 of the Queen^s death. 
 
 July loth. — Jean Sarradie, the Malegache_, is now 
 installed as the guardian and trainer of four Mozambique 
 boys in our grounds, and this morning I had a deeply 
 interesting conversation with him. In dwelling on the 
 need of persevering to the end, I told him of that part of 
 the Pilgrim^s Progress, where one turned aside even near 
 the gate of heaven ; and this led him to recount to me 
 one of those remarkable dreams, which in so many cases 
 prove the turning-point of real conversion among in- 
 quirers from the heathen. He told me his thoughts 
 about the sermon yesterday afternoon, on the subject, — 
 " Having your feet shod with the preparation of the 
 gospel of peace." He said he had lain awake till one 
 o^ clock thinking over that ; " for when you said, ' Have 
 your feet shod,'' &c., I thought, how can that be, when 
 the Lord told St. Peter to take his shoes off?'' (This 
 confusion of persons is not at all uncommon with them). 
 "But then,'' he said, "I saw it was something to do 
 with the heart, a parable, and it was very instructive." 
 It is very beautiful to witness old Prosper's simplicity 
 and fervency of faith. The keen discernment that he 
 has of the simple truths of the Gospel, as they affect 
 the soul and its standing before God^ is most interesting 
 to observe.
 
 174 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Since I came in_, a young Negro has been here listen- 
 ing most attentively to the account of the way of salva- 
 tion. He expressed great surprise when I read of the 
 great multitude in heaven who had come from the sor- 
 rows of this world. 
 
 July 2\th. — This morning we have begun teaching 
 our Negro boys the alphabet. I was so afraid of bringing 
 on anything like sickness, that I have so far left them 
 entirely to out-door occupation. It is beautiful to see 
 our coachman's kindness to them. What a joy it would 
 be to have some of these youths trained and fitted to go 
 to East Africa, to proclaim the Gospel to their perishing 
 fellow-countrymen ! 
 
 Tour to Mahehourg, Grand River {South-East), ^c, from 
 Saturday Morning^ August \Othj to Tuesday Evening^ 
 August 13M. 
 
 August IQth. — We were detained for some time by 
 the settlement of an Indian quarrel before we started, 
 and as the ponies had to go more than a mile beyond 
 Curepipe, Vincent and I walked up the Moka Hills, 
 which was rather hot work. We called to ask after Mrs. 
 Martindale, and heard rather an unfavourable account 
 from her son. As we were going to see Dr. Keid, who 
 had attended Capt. Martindale to the last, we thought 
 it a good opportunity for conveying a message to him. 
 We found the coachman waiting for us at the gate of 
 the chiu'chyard, in sight of the white monument of Mr. 
 Stair Douglas's little child, and of the ground where we
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 175 
 
 buried Capt. Martindale last "Wednesday, and where 
 Armand^s * own little child was buried in our absence. 
 At the 13th milestone we left the ponies in the road, and 
 went up to call on Mr. EveljTi, whose little one I had 
 baptized not long ago. On the way I measured the 
 stem of a large fern-tree_, and was quite prepared to hear 
 of these trees being often found forty feet high, as we 
 were afterwards told by a competent observer, Mr. Clark, 
 of Mahebourg. Passing by our old hotel at Curepipe, 
 which is now shut up, we went on to the establishment 
 of a Monsieur Planch e, near the 16th milestone. Several 
 coloured youths were sitting about with guns in their 
 hands, waiting to go to the chasse. Want of success in 
 their last expedition was urged by the proprietor as his 
 excuse for not offering us breakfast. Fortunately, we had 
 a bottle of tea with us, and some bread, and made a very 
 refreshing tiffin. We reached Mahebourg about foui*, and 
 before six I had seen, chiefly by meeting them, all whom 
 it was my duty to see ; ^dz. Dr. and Mrs. Finnimore, with 
 whom we stayed ; Mr. Pennington, the clergyman ; Mr. 
 and Mrs. Telfair (my hosts in 1859 at Seychelles) ; Cap- 
 tain Macfarlane, the militaiy commandant, and other 
 officers. We walked again to the camp, where a com- 
 pany of soldiers were engaged in rifle practice, there 
 meeting several old friends, and returned when it was 
 quite dark to Dr. Finnimore^s, having arranged the 
 order of proceedings for the next day. 
 
 On Sunday morning early, V. J. and I had a bathe in 
 * The coachman.
 
 176 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the sea, and arranged with Dr. Reid about visiting the 
 hospital. I preached at the morning service on 2 Kings, 
 V. 13, 14, and afterwards visited Captain Wray, the pay- 
 master, who has been very ill, and prayed with him. We 
 then took lunch at the mess, where all, as usual, were most 
 kind. I next went to the hospital, and left The British 
 Soldier in Indian A Light for the Line, and other books, 
 saying a few words to the men, and then went to Mr. 
 Pennington's till service at four. The Confirmation was 
 in French and English, and I gave an address in each 
 language. A young Komanist came to me just before 
 the service, wishing to be confirmed; but I did not feel 
 confidence enough in his seriousness of mind, though I 
 have had many conversations with him in town. 
 
 After service, we (Mr. Telfair, Mr. Pennington, Dr. 
 Reid, V. J., J. Baptist, and I), went to see a Mons. Ro- 
 sidor, living near the sea, but were a long time getting to 
 him, from heavy squalls of rain. John Baptist, the cate- 
 chist, had a sad tale of sorrow to tell me, — the loss of two 
 children this year having evidently given a very gloomy 
 turn to his mind. He told me that " all his bones were 
 broken,^^ and used other Oriental expressions, which re- 
 minded me strongly of those in the Psalms. After John 
 Baptist's sorrowful account, I could not help going round 
 by the school. His poor wife was very much altered, and 
 sad. We reached Mr. Clark's quite late. Many hymns 
 and pieces of sacred music were sung, and I was most 
 powerfully reminded, as they were singing " Vital spark 
 of heavenly fiame/' of the last scenes of their dear
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 177 
 
 motlier's life. The evening was closed with a Psalm^ and 
 a few prayers in French. 
 
 Monday morning opened very cloudily : heavy rain 
 had been, and was then threatening; but we got our 
 bathe, and started at about eight, over the Higginson 
 bridge. Between four and five we were at the Post at 
 Grand River South-East, having gone all round the coast, 
 walking and riding, and walking again — very wet, and 
 dirty, and tired. It was a very interesting journey, pain- 
 fully so in some respects, though there was much that 
 was very pleasant in it. Mr. Clark's kindness provided 
 eveiything necessary for our transport, and Mons. Cheron 
 received us most hospitably. The first incident which 
 took place after we had walked to look at Dr. Finnimore's 
 house, now in process of construction, was our meeting 
 three neatly-dressed, intelligent-looking boys, coming 
 from old Grand Port, with their tin boxes, or malles, of 
 books, going to Mr. Clark's school. A couple of miles 
 further on, a coloui-ed man, in answer to our questions, 
 said that there was no school for his children, and for 
 those around; and this was the state of things which we 
 found to exist during the whole of the journey of fifteen 
 or eighteen miles : not a single school after crossing the 
 river, up to Grand River South-East, and then no school 
 there either. 
 
 We passed a beautifully-an-anged Indian camp, on a 
 rising ground jutting into the bay, but no school or cate- 
 chist was there. AYe came to a camp at Belle Vue, where, 
 on inquiry, we found there was one Clii-istian. The men 
 
 N
 
 178 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 shouted for him, and he came very eagerly, and told me 
 he had books, but no church — no semces on Sunday. 
 Mons. Blancard, manager of the estate, promised me to 
 show every attention to any Missionary who might come. 
 
 On the next estate, we heard there were several 
 Christians, but they were at a distance at work. Mr. 
 Portal, the proprietor, had been a fellow-passenger with 
 us on board the " Norna,'^ on our journey to England, 
 last year. 
 
 On the next estate, no Christians, but a very intelli- 
 gent man — the guardian of the camp, who said he had a 
 book in Oordoo. I told him to fetch it, which he did, and 
 it proved to be the Gospel of St. John. "A light shining 
 in a dark place," is a very just representation of such a 
 book in a heathen camp, where there are hundreds who 
 know nothing of the way of salvation. 
 
 AYhile I was speaking to this Indian I managed to 
 stop a Malegache, who was walking in our direction, and 
 afterwards had a very interesting conversation with him. 
 A simple exposition of the salvation of God, several times 
 repeated to this unbaptized heathen man, who had a 
 very intelligent and inquiring mind, led to many 
 questions on his part, and to a full statement of his 
 previous history and his present circumstances, which 
 made me feel very much interested; — interested both in 
 the missionary work, which I felt I was carrying on 
 indirectly, and in the condition of the man and of his 
 children. No school, and a great desire for a teacher, 
 both for old and young, was the cry here also.
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 179 
 
 Soon after leaving him, we reached Mons. Cheron-'s 
 hospitable dwelling, and were received, as on the previous 
 journey, with the hearty welcome of a Christian man. 'We 
 found that the daughter, who took so much care of the 
 orphans, had mamed, and was settled on the neighbouring 
 estate in the next bay, where we afterwards saw her and 
 her like-minded husband ; being guided thither, and as 
 far as Grand River South-East, by one of the orphans 
 whom Mons. Cheron had protected, now grown up to be 
 a fine, intelligent, and obliging young man. The chief 
 object of my visit was to receive explanations, which were 
 now given me, about the non-establishment of a school 
 on Mons. Cheron^s property. The facts were these. After 
 my former visit, Mons. Cheron had written to the Govern- 
 ment, offering to build a school at his own expense, and to 
 defray the whole or part of the schoolmaster'' s salary, if 
 the Government would give him a site on the government 
 land called the Pas Geometriques, near the sea. To this a 
 favourable answer was returned, and a request made for a 
 plan of the ground by a government-surveyor. From that 
 day to the present the surveyor had not been procurable, 
 and there the matter rests. I hope now to set it in 
 motion again. The proposal of Mons. Cheron is, that 
 his daughter, who has long cared for the neighbouring 
 orphans, should have the charge of the school, which is to 
 be built near her present place of residence. Most thank- 
 ful should I be to see this object accomplished; for the 
 want of all means of moral and religious instruction along 
 the whole of that part of the coast is very deplorable.
 
 180 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Mr. Clark returned from this spot, having sent the 
 ponies which he had lent to Vincent and me on before 
 him. We borrowed an old white mule for Vincent, w^hich 
 I rode a short distance ; and, after following the windings 
 of the coast for about two hours more, we_ arrived at the 
 western side of the embouchure of Grand River South- 
 East, in a very weather-beaten condition. My bag, with 
 robes, &c., in it, which I had left at Mahebourg, to be 
 sent from thence direct to Port Louis, had followed us 
 on the head of a Malabar, and two other Malabars had 
 come with our little hand-packages. Our delay at Mons. 
 Cheron's had given them time to come up with us soon 
 after we left him. They were to have met us long before 
 by crossing the bay in a pirogue. Poor fellows ! they 
 looked very tired. The regular ferry-boat was on the 
 other side; and, as the Erench say, "pas moyen^^ of 
 making the people hear. So we took shelter in an 
 Indian shop, and waited the arrival of a country pirogue, 
 which was towing a mule across. Into that we got, 
 took leave of our conductors and helpers, and enlisted the 
 help of a good-natured-looking European on the opposite 
 side, who brought a jMalabar to take our dripping bag- 
 gage up to the barracks, where we found a hearty w^el- 
 come. We were very glad to hear of the interest taken 
 in the books which we had sent for the men. 
 
 The next morning we had a very refreshing bathe in 
 the sea, and after breakfast began our journey again. We 
 went up towards the cascade in a pirogue ; but the force 
 of the current kept us at some distance. On returning
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 181 
 
 to the village I found that the carriage which was to have 
 been sent had not arrived. A. young clerk, of the name 
 of Robert, very kindly offered his spring-cart and mule, 
 and his own services to drive. We accepted his offer veiy 
 thankfull}^, and in the meanwhile walked about a mile on, 
 and then turned off to the left, and went down the cliff, 
 close to the waterfall, which was truly grand. On re- 
 turning to the road we found my European friend of the 
 former day, and it proved that words spoken by me very 
 much at random, as far as his special case was concerned, 
 had been very appropriate to his state, and he left me 
 under the deepest emotion. 
 
 We reached the Deep-River Estate, in the Trois Islots 
 district, at near twelve o^ clock, and had a very pleasant 
 visit of about an hour, during which I looked over the 
 nice little library of the manager^s son, just come from a 
 good school in England. I promised him a Greek Testa- 
 ment, having given a French one to Mons. Robert, who 
 had driven us thus far. After a refreshing meal, we 
 started in another mule-cart, with which we travelled 
 for four hours, sometimes walking, sometimes riding, 
 until we reached the entrance of a long bye-road, lead- 
 ing up to a plantation named Menifay, at the seventh 
 milestone from town, on the Moka road. We walked 
 the last four miles down the Moka hills, and after meeting 
 several of our friends returning from town, reached home 
 just about dark. At about twelve miles from town we 
 had come to a government-school, and the master told 
 me I was the first clergyman he had seen there. I trust
 
 182 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the blessing of God will rest on tliis journey, which has 
 furnished nie with many of those facts, by which my own 
 eflPorts and the co-operation of others have to be 
 stimulated. 
 
 Auffust 29th. — Yesterday^ V. J. and I started, after 
 our own little service in the verandah, for Pamplemousses 
 and Villebague, and I had a very encouraging day. 
 
 As we passed through the large street leading to Pam- 
 plemousses, I saw an Indian schoolmaster, with the keys 
 of one of our last-established schools, which he was just 
 going to open ; a few paces on, two of the first class of 
 the Koyal College, whom I had been examining recently; 
 and about three miles onward^ several nicely-dressed 
 Indian boys, with good tin boxes containing their books, 
 on their way to the school at Mr. Ireland's. Their cheery 
 " Good morning. Sir,'' was very pleasant. 
 
 At Mr. Wheeler's, there were twenty-four children 
 assembled in the school on the church-ground. About a 
 mile and a-half beyond, an Indian school, where the 
 children were all most sedulously at work with eye, 
 finger, and voice, at the palmyra-leaf lessons ; and a few 
 miles further, Mr. Miller's school at Villebague, where 
 the singing, the examination in French and English, the 
 repetition in both languages^ and the quiet, orderly, 
 intelligent demeanour of the children, all gave me very 
 great pleasure. 
 
 I afterwards called with ]\Ir. Wheeler on several intel- 
 ligent members of his Villebague (fortnightly) congrega- 
 tion, and was very thankful to find the Bible in their
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 183 
 
 possession, and evident!}' an object of very deep interest 
 to them. On my return, I called on some of the members 
 of our church at Pamplemousses; and after dining with 
 Mr. Wheeler, we reached town in time for me to read 
 prayers at oui* Wednesday-evening service. I was tired, 
 but very much gratified with the day^s occurrences. 
 
 Sept. 6th. — Yesterday we went to Powder Mills (the 
 school for Indian and African orphans). I shall not 
 attempt any description of that gratifying scene, at 
 which the Governor and Mrs. Stevenson w^ere present, 
 with many visitors filling up one side of the place ; among 
 whom were the Procurem'-General, the Protector of Im- 
 migrants, the Rector of the Royal College, the Inspector 
 of Schools, the Chief of the Police, Magistrates, and 
 Members of the Legislative Council, and about 200 
 rescued Indian and African orphans, looking healthy and 
 happy, and receiving prizes for progress in knowledge, 
 and for their skill in various industrial works, of which 
 the specimens were exhibited. An aged Christian, the 
 mother of the Organizing Master of Government Schools, 
 said, that she could not enjoy it as she would have 
 wished, from the yearning she felt that our friends at 
 home could have witnessed the sight. 
 
 It happens that the anniversaiy of the Institution is 
 the Governor's birthday, and I feel very thankful that it 
 is so, for the pains that he and Mrs. Stevenson have 
 taken about that Institution have been very great indeed. 
 Nothing but a lively interest in the welfare of those poor 
 orphans, and a most hearty sympathy with the efi'orts
 
 184 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 bestowed by Mr. and Mrs. Ansorge for their real good, 
 could have led to such prompt, efficient, and persevering 
 attention as has been given by them from the first, to all 
 the wants of the Institution. The gathering yesterday 
 was too full of satisfaction, and encouragement, and 
 interesting incident, for me to give any detailed account 
 of it. One or two of the incidents were very simple 
 and touching. When everybody was looking on in the 
 crowded apartment to see the examination of the older 
 children, I found a row of about twenty little orphans 
 of very tender years, who were beginning some of the 
 infant-school tunes. I encouraged them, and we had the 
 whole of the hymns, exercises, and other performances 
 admirably gone through, the dear little children looking 
 so very happy. 
 
 On distributing the flags to the captains, I found that 
 none of the Africans were captains yet^ so I asked for the 
 best among them, and gave him a flag. The look of dis- 
 consolate woe which another African boy put on when 
 he found this out, attracted everybody's notice, and the 
 receiver kindly offered to give him the flag. He declined 
 most significantly, and showed what a difference there 
 was in receiving the flag from him and from me ; so that I 
 have promised him another. Towards the close I found 
 a group of boys around me, and one bright little Indian 
 looking at me with a most expressive smile, from which I 
 gathered that he wanted to speak to me. I asked him 
 what he wanted : " To go to town to see you/' " Well, 
 but/' I said, " I am come here to see you." This, how-
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 185 
 
 ever, was not the same thing, and it was most amusing, 
 wherever I was afterwards, there was this little fellow 
 with his beaming smile, and the same request. At last, 
 when I was talking with Mr. Ansorge, the same lively 
 face intruded again ; and I asked Mr. Ansorge to question 
 him in the Bengalee language, when the same reply came 
 out, "He wishes to go to town to see you.''' "What the 
 real meaning of all this is I do not know, but I shall be 
 very thankful to God if many are found to have the same 
 feeling of affectionate confidence. 
 
 It was very sad, the other day, when our Mozambique 
 boys were told of the prospect of their returning to their 
 own people when they knew enough, to hear of their 
 having at once thrown down their tools, and refused to 
 learn any more; because, as they observed very signi- 
 ficantly, their country was one where they would be 
 hunted, and sold or killed. What a fearful system is that 
 which destroys even the love of country in the heart of 
 man ! By and by, I hope they will feel differently. 
 
 Sept. 19/A. — At prayers in the verandah, yester- 
 day, I mentioned the opening of Madagascar. After 
 prayer, Sarradie, Prosper,, and a Malegache of the name 
 of Jacques, came into my study. Their delight was great 
 when I said that the teaching of many years ago had been 
 hidden, like seed in the earth, while bad weather pre- 
 vailed, and then sprung into life and verdure. They 
 all rejoiced at the similitude ; and old Prosper, after 
 his wont, seized on one thought which occurred to him, 
 and repeated it again and again, — " Ah ! Tevaugile ! li
 
 186 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 travaille, Pevangile travaille, Pevangile travaille dans 
 tout pays '/^ The word ^'^ travaille" is what they always 
 use for the working of seed in the earth. Sarradie was 
 greatly delighted. "L^evangile travaille comme Chinois 
 sous terrc," was his shrewd remark_, alluding to the dex- 
 terity of the Chinese in underground operations. 
 
 Last week, I was told by Mr. Mason that a Protest- 
 ant schoolmaster, who had married a Roman Catholic, 
 was dying ; and that his relations were trying to keep the 
 clergyman from him ; and that the wife and mother- 
 in-law had howled and shrieked in the most dreadful 
 manner when he (Mr. Mason) went, and had even said, 
 '^ Retro, Satanas ! " As soon as I could, on Monday 
 morning, I went, and the scene which awaited me baffles 
 all description. There was the helplessly sick man, and 
 there were the women shrieking, and stamping, and 
 making use of insulting epithets: altogether, the sight 
 was a sorrowful and saddening one, only relieved by the 
 poor man's determination to stand fast and maintain his 
 faith. I have made such representations of the matter, 
 that I trust they will now let him die in peace. Mr. De 
 Joux had a similar case, some years ago ; but the woman 
 who then behaved so violently is now one of our staunchest 
 friends — most frequent and regular at church, and her 
 eldest son one of our most promising young men, a regu- 
 lar attendant at Mr. Mason's Monday-evening class, and 
 a diligent teacher in our Sunday-school. How cheering 
 is every simple look directed to the grace of God, and its 
 wonderful results !
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 187 
 
 Sept. SOth. — We are getting touches of warm weather, 
 which make cool evenings pleasant, and the thoughts of 
 hotter days formidable. I feel very tired on a Sunday 
 evening, though it is now generally spent at home. 
 Yesterday, I had twenty- six at my early French service 
 in the verandah. In a place like this there is need of 
 constant instruction and training, and the field seems to 
 widen every week. On Saturday, as I w^as going up the 
 side of a ravine, a fine, strong young negro overtook me. 
 On questioning him, I found he knew nothing about reli- 
 gion, no form of prayer, no anything, and could neither 
 read nor write. He was very grateful for my promise, 
 that when Mr. Banks comes out we shall try to have an 
 evening school. 
 
 Yesterday, I heard the full particulars of the zeal of a 
 little Indian boy at the Asylum, one of the first who had 
 asked to be baptized last year. He requested permission 
 some time back to have half-an-hour every evening to 
 himself, and spent it in teaching a heathen how to read, 
 and the truth of the Christian religion at the same time. 
 "When the heathen applied for baptism, he was found to 
 be thoroughly well taught. " Out of the mouths of babes 
 and sucklings hast Thou ordained strength." I was next 
 told that a poor w^oman, wife of a former servant of ours, 
 wished to see me. She was veiy ill. Formerly her hus- 
 band had asked to be baptized, and she had threatened to 
 leave, with her two daughters by a former husband, and 
 had held long, and sometimes angry discussions, with the 
 Christian servants. Within the last few days she has
 
 188 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 been baptized, and when Mr. Ansorge asked her if she 
 remembered all that Jesus had suffered for her, she said 
 with great earnestness, — " What other hope could there 
 be for me V After I had prayed yesterday, she put her 
 hand on her bosom, and said, very eagerly, " Was that 
 prayer for me?^' (^'^ ga pour moi ? ca priere la?") And 
 when I said " Yes,^' and spoke of the mercy of the Saviour, 
 her eyes filled with tears^ and the drops rolled down her 
 cheeks. It was a very affecting sight, especially as she 
 had been the most repulsive of all the servants we have 
 ever had, and she had shown great bitterness against 
 Christianity. These instances came with much comfort 
 to me yesterday. 
 
 Madagascar is much in my thoughts just now, but no 
 opening yet for me. I pray that we may go to the work, if 
 we are called, with the genuine feeling, '^ Not unto us, 
 Lord, not unto us, but unto Thy name be the glory." A 
 letter was sent from the King of Madagascar to Mr. Le 
 Brun, earnestly asking his assistance, especially towards 
 the building of a large room to be used as a school. A 
 formal message was also sent to the Governor, asking, I 
 believe, for a deputation or embassy. In answer to these, 
 Mr. John Le Brun is gone in one ship, and Colonel Mid- 
 dleton, R.A., Mr. Marindin, B.E., Mr. Newton, Assistant 
 Col. Sec, Mr. ]\Iellish, a banker, and Mr. Caldwell, to 
 take a congratulatory message to the King. They left 
 a fortnight ago. Very deep interest is excited on the 
 subject here. Travellers, naturalists, politicians, mer- 
 chants, all are on the qui vive. I am anxiously looking
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 189 
 
 out for a favourable opportunity. Thus far the accounts 
 are cheerful and encouraging. The results of the London 
 Missionary's Society's work so many years ago are most 
 encouraging; but the trials and dangers to which the 
 population will be exposed, from the rapid influx of civilis- 
 ation, are neither few nor light. I trust that many 
 prayers will be offered up in England with special refer- 
 ence to the openings in Madagascar. A handsome Bible, 
 in English, has been sent to the King. 
 
 Oct. 1 7th. — Of all the interesting sights which work 
 like ours brings into \iew at times, I do not think 
 there has been one which would have been more pleas- 
 ing to many of our friends, than Prosper acting as my 
 interpreter to the foui* ^Mozambique boys, a few morn- 
 ings ago. The subject was Adam and Eve, Paradise, 
 and the permission to eat of all the trees but one. 
 Their wonder and delight, and Prosper's eager anima- 
 tion, were most interesting to witness, and I felt how 
 God had done for us beyond what we ever anticipated, in 
 making Prosper an evangelist for these youths from East 
 Africa. 
 
 Nov. 19th. — Vincent and Alfred went with me to 
 Yacoas ; L. accompanying us as far as Rosalie, which is 
 the house now inhabited by Mr. and Mrs. Higginson, 
 next to the chm-ch at Plaines Wilhems. There we had 
 prayers in Enghsh, and I read Psalm ciii., having had 
 our French service in the verandah before starting. 
 
 At Vacoas, we found Mr. De Joux lame from the bite 
 of a scorpion, but he was able to get to the house, which
 
 190 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 is now nearly finished, and to the schools,, with which, as 
 usual, I was very much interested and pleased. It cer- 
 tainly is a most touching sight to see Miss De Joux 
 iseated at the harmonium, with all those dark boys and 
 girls around her, looking as if they were under the com- 
 mand of her eye, although she is totally blind. On our 
 way to the Tamarind Falls we looked into another school, 
 in a very remote part, and at Mr. Moon^s saw the curio- 
 sities from Madagascar which their friend, Mr. Caldwell, 
 had brought. Mr. M., who had been seriously ill in 
 town during many weeks, was out there for change of air, 
 and spoke in the warmest manner of the benefit he had 
 derived from the Practical Suggestions to an Invalid. 
 Yesterday, I found the same book, the prized com- 
 panion of a young Englishman, who is very ill in the 
 hospital. 
 
 Confirmation at Vacoas, Sunday, Bee. Sth, 1861. — 
 Instead of starting too early in the morning, we did not 
 leave Bishopstowe till half-past eight, Vincent and Sar- 
 radie accompanying me. I was thus enabled to hold my 
 morning-service in the verandah before going. After 
 reaching the table-land of Moka the air was very fresh, 
 and the scenery never seemed more beautiful. Doubtless, 
 it was partly the feeling of progress in the work of making 
 known the truth of the Gospel which made the plains 
 and mountains, cane-fields and forests, look so beautiful; 
 and Sarradie^s account of his escape from Indian robbers, 
 near to one of the plantations which we passed, was accom-
 
 THE SEYCHELLES AND MAURITIUS. 191 
 
 panied with expressions of gratitude, which harmonized 
 well with our scenery and onr work. The weapon 
 which he dashed out of the assassin^s hand is still in his 
 possession. 
 
 On reaching Vacoas we found everything ready, and 
 the palisadoed chapel, though evidently unfit to encounter 
 another hurricane, was filled with attentive worshippers. 
 Many of the old ex-apprentices have died since my first 
 visit, but the race was represented by a goodly sprinkling 
 of old men and old women, all with red handkerchiefs on 
 their heads. Their children and grandchildren were 
 there, and the efi'ect of the unwearied teaching bestowed 
 upon them was shown in one most pleasing manner ; viz. 
 the full and hearty response to every part of the service, 
 and the hearty joining in the three hymns which were 
 sung. Scholars of former days, now grown up into young 
 men and women, were present also in large numbers; and 
 it was most gratifying to see how the concentrated oppo- 
 sition of the priests, their having built a chapel quite close 
 to our work, and having sent another abbe to help in 
 their work, has resulted in giving us a strong, because 
 a tried congregation. Now that I know from experience 
 how they move about to difi'erent parts of this island, 
 and how they go to difi'erent islands in the Indian Ocean, 
 I do indeed rejoice, though with a joy which there is 
 much to temper and to chasten, in the blessing which we 
 are permitted to see. 
 
 It was very touching to hear Mr. De Joux afterwards 
 ascribing all to the grace of God, who can prosper the
 
 192 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 feeblest means: " for here am I/' he said, pointing to 
 both his ears, " quite deaf; and there is my daughter, a 
 poor blind girl; and it pleases Him to make use of us.'' 
 The number prepared for confirmation was forty-one, 
 and thirty-nine were counted, though some could not 
 attend. After the service there were two baptisms of adults, 
 whom I hope to confirm on the morning of the 20th. As 
 I reached Failles, on returning, the congregation were 
 gathering for the half-past-four o^clock service in the 
 verandah, which Mr. Cochrane took, and I came on into 
 Port Louis for the evening service, finishing Psalm xxvii., 
 and taking occasion from the last verse, with its earnest ex- 
 hortation to " wait on the Lord,^^ to give a strong protest 
 and warning about the idolatrous falsehoods of the Imma- 
 culate Conception, that being the day of its celebration. 
 With reference to adult baptism, I had a very interesting 
 interview with a man from one of the Salomon Islands, 
 He Boddam, the only one where the manager had been 
 not very cordiah This Negro came to me last week, 
 reminding me of my last visit, and askiug to be baptized. 
 I found him scarcely ready yet. On questioning him 
 about the Bible which I had sent to the Malegache, 
 Paul, since dead, he told me what I had heard before, 
 how Paul regularly instructed them out of it. " '\^"here 
 is the Bible now?^^ I asked. "La has meme/' here- 
 plied. "But who has got it?^^ "It is in his coffin; 
 we buried it with hini \'' How affecting the thought, 
 that there was no one else in the island who could 
 read it !
 
 t; ~' ''
 
 MAURITIUS. 193 
 
 Examination of Miss FoimrCs School, Creve CoeWj 
 Dec. 10, 1861. — The weather was very threatening 
 indeed after tropical showers of rain, when L. and I 
 started for Creve Coeur, coming through the town to leave 
 the boj'S for their examinations. About ten minutes after 
 we left w^e had a burst of rain, which in less than a 
 minute made me wet through, as I was exposed from 
 driving, but it refreshed the ponies for their twelve miles' 
 pull and back. After leaving Port Louis we had no more 
 rain aU day. In Miss Fomm's school we found 30 pupils, 
 24 girls and 6 boys, and all who were present were ex- 
 ceedingly pleased with the results of the examination. The 
 dress and manner and behaviour of the pupils, their 
 neatly-kept writing-books, their correct reading, and above 
 all, their thoughtful, intelligent answers to Scripture 
 questions, all bore witness to the pains and skill which 
 have been bestowed upon them. If only such a school 
 can increase and continue, it will prove an element of the 
 greatest good in our population. "When I had questioned 
 the classes on the chapter which they had read, the Super- 
 intendent of Government Schools, who was present with 
 the organizing master and another certificated teacher from 
 Cheltenham, asked me w^hether they knew beforehand that 
 that chapter would be taken, — they had done it so well? 
 I told him the simple fact, that I had chosen it at the 
 moment from the four gospels, which were given me to 
 make my selection. A large number of texts were re- 
 peated well. The proceedings began with a hymn in 
 English, and terminated with one in French. 
 
 o
 
 194 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 " C'est Jesus qui mc mene, 
 Car je suis sa brebis : 
 Et vers le ciel ainsi sans peine, 
 Ma route je poursuis. 
 
 Conduit sur les rivages 
 
 Des plus limpides eaux, 
 Je traverse les paturages 
 
 Les plus frais, les plus beaux. 
 
 Jamais seul sur ma route, 
 
 Toujours pres du Seigneur, 
 Je lui parle, et jamais le doute 
 
 Ne vient troubler mon coeur. 
 
 Que mon vcbu, ma pensee 
 
 Soit de vivre pour toi, 
 En suivant la route trace e 
 
 Dans ta divine loi ! 
 
 Toujours done, je te prie, 
 
 Tiens-moi sous ton regard. 
 Car t'aimer, Jesus, c'est la vie, 
 
 Qui, c'est ' la bonne part ! ' " 
 
 The dictation, arithmetic, and geography, were all 
 done well, and my knowledge of the condition in which 
 some of the pupils entered the school a few months 
 ago, enabled me to form an opinion on the pains and. 
 skill with which they had been taught. I do trust 
 this establishment may prove the commencement of an 
 Institution for lasting good to Mauritius, and thus an 
 appropriate memorial to the venerated lady* in whose 
 thoughts, and prayers, and efforts, this colony had a 
 special place for so many years. 
 * Lady Grey.
 
 MAURITIUS. 195 
 
 At tlie other side of Mr. Hobbs's dwelling-bouse we 
 found a Tamil school^ with twenty-five children, and here 
 again were greatly pleased with the order, and method, 
 and progress which we could observe, even without un- 
 derstanding the language. IMrs. Hobbs has an excellent 
 plan with her teachers. Every Friday she examines the 
 schools, and a book is kept in which the progress made 
 by the pupils from one Friday to another is marked down. 
 By referring to this, she at once sees the limits within 
 which her examination has to be confined. I was glad to 
 find here also texts of Scripture nicely repeated. Thus, 
 close under the crags of Pieter Botte, there are fifty-five 
 children from that beautiful valley, learning in three lan- 
 guages, English, French, and Tamil, the way of salva- 
 tion and peace; altogether, in the district of Pample- 
 mousses, there are more than five hundred children under 
 our direct inflaence and teaching. "We may well say, 
 " What hath God wrought ! '' 
 
 Dec. 18//^. — Yesterday was one of my most busy 
 days. I left Bishopstowe at seven, with the two boys 
 and Mr. Ackroyd, who had spent the evening before with 
 us. The boys remained in town to prepare for their prize 
 deliveiy, and I went on with an Indian, named ^Yilliam, 
 to Pamplemousses, and thence to Villebague, to visit 
 Mr. Miller^s school, numbering fifty-four boys and girls. 
 Several of them were absent, but those who were there 
 answered very nicely indeed. It was rather fatiguing to 
 go through the whole process, but the results and the 
 promise in that school are matter for much gratitude.
 
 196 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 On our return, I called at the house of the magistrate of 
 the district, and afterwards at the surgeon^ s, and also in- 
 spected an Indian school, one of the first established by 
 Mr. Taylor. There is a very peculiar efficiency in those 
 Indian teachers, and the palmyra -leaf tablets, and the 
 sand on the floor for writing, give one a pleasing idea of 
 cheapness as to appliances. I am very thankful to have 
 received a large case of school-books in Tamil and Eng- 
 lish, from the Vernacular School-book Society, which has 
 my very strong sympathies. This reminds me of the 
 deep gratitude I felt the other day, at having a Christian 
 teacher well acquainted with the Indian languages, when 
 Mr. Franklin described to me his last night with a young 
 Indian, who w^as executed recently for a fearful murder. 
 His experience was more like that of the dying thief than 
 anything I remember. The way in wdiich the poor youth 
 seized upon the ofi'ers of salvation, made for the first time, 
 and the efi*ect produced on his mind and heart by the 
 reception of the good news, were most touching. 
 
 But, to return to my w^ork. Mr. Wheeler returned 
 with us, and we reached tow^n at five o^ clock. St. Jameses 
 School was full, and very nicely decorated. I presided at 
 the distribution of prizes. Then came the distribution of 
 the Sunday-school prizes, and then refreshments, dui'ing 
 which I went out for some fresh air; and then, after an 
 exhibition of the magic-lanteiii, a ride home in the bright 
 moonlight, all very well tired. 
 
 Dec. 30th. — Very sad to us has been the subsequent 
 illness and death of Mr. Miller. His anxiety about his
 
 MAURITIUS. 197 
 
 wife, who was very ill, .added to the excitement of the 
 examinations, I suppose, brought on sudden illness, and 
 he died on the Sunday after my visit. 
 
 On the 20th there was a grand day at Vacoas. Many 
 from town, from Moka, &c., were there. On the 24th, 
 Powder Mills presented all the attractions perceived in 
 former visits. One incident struck me much, — An Indian 
 boy, when they were thanking their benefactors, was asked 
 what he meant by ^' the Governor,^^ and he said, " father 
 and mother/^ Mrs. Stevenson richly deserves such a testi- 
 mony to her devoted attention to their wants in every re- 
 spect. Many prize distributions in town occupied me 
 greatly, and on Friday last I went to Bambou, where I con- 
 firmed twenty-one persons, and gave the prizes afterwards 
 to pupils whose proficiency agreeably surprised me. 
 
 On Christmas-day we had a very interesting time. 
 At my French Communion, natives of Europe, Asia, 
 Africa and America, were present, and the same at the 
 administration in English. jVumbers of Indians attended 
 at their places of worship, and altogether there was much 
 to encourage us. My last Christmas-day visit was to a 
 young Englishman in the hospital, with whom I prayed 
 at about six o'clock, and he died at about seven. 
 
 Jan, IMh, 1862. — A meeting in our drawing-room, 
 yesterday evening, of some of the principal residents near 
 us, has been a very encoui'aging incident in a time of 
 depression. It was to consider about a small church, or 
 a church-room, to be erected on our ground. General 
 Breton, Mr. Sholto Douglas, Mr. John Douglas, Mr.
 
 198 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Mellish, Mr. Wildman, Mr. Holloway, Mr. Wing, Mr. 
 Stanley, Mr. Newton, Mr. Marsh, Rev. D. Cochrane, and 
 myself, were present. Commencing with prayer, we pro- 
 ceeded to discuss the character of the building we wanted, 
 and to consider what we could raise. I strongly urged a 
 decent, commodious room, to cost about 200/. This was 
 overruled, for one to cost about 600Z. ; viz. 300/. from 
 subscriptions, and when that sum is secured, then the 
 Government will give the equivalent. 170/. was subscribed 
 in the room, and I am leaving the matter in the hands of 
 the General as President, and Messrs. Sholto Douglas, 
 Mellish, Stanley, and Capt. Morrison, R.E., as a working 
 Committee. 
 
 Jan. 17th, — On Monday I went to the Morne with 
 V. J., after early prayers with our people in the verandah. 
 We found Mr. Odell at Black River; and Jean Sarradie, 
 who was with us, walked on to the Morne with the order 
 to send a pirogue from Coteau Raffin, from Mr. Latour^s. 
 My companions expressed the greatest delight at the 
 exquisite beauty of the view; and afterwards, when we 
 looked back from the Morne, it was very doubtful which 
 view was the more beautiful of the tw^o. The heat was 
 intense, and there was a good deal of w^alking. At one 
 time we all got under the shade of a palm-tree, and caught 
 the gentle, but most refreshing breeze, that seemed to 
 flutter round the stem. It was very remarkable, that the 
 only time a doctor ever went with me to the Morne, three 
 very serious cases of illness presented themselves. He was 
 most kind, and his recent return from Madagascar en-
 
 MAURITIUS. 199 
 
 abled him to give most interesting information about that 
 place and people. 
 
 The next morning we started for a spot I had never 
 yet seen — the gorge of the Black River; and I walked at 
 least six miles, and the same back, crossing the Black 
 Biver six times, and reaching at last a hunting-box, or 
 "hangar,^^ belonging to Mons. Geneve. There we walked 
 in the shade, and in the midst of glorious scenery. The 
 gorge is in fact a ravine between some of the highest 
 mountains in the island, the sides of which are covered 
 with timber to the top. AVhile wandering alone in 
 the wood I met two wild-looking Malagasies. They 
 knew a very little of Christianity, but they longed to 
 know more ; and when I told them I should try to get 
 them more fully taught, poor fellows ! they took off the 
 covering from their heads, and said most emphatically, 
 "Nous bien content.'''' We returned to the Poste, 
 and started for home. Night overtook us before we 
 reached it, and we were very tired; but it was well I 
 had come, for the next morning there were about forty 
 gathered in the verandah for the Word of God and 
 prayer. 
 
 Jan. 2Sth. — The cholera has been some time in the 
 island, but I ti-ust that, through God's mercy, we may be 
 spared a wide epidemic. As usual at this time, there 
 are many cases of illness. By a circular from the mayor 
 all schools are broken up for a week. 
 
 Feb. Dth. — Yesterday was a busy day. On visiting 
 the hospital I found poor Mr. Swete's murderer in the
 
 200 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 cholera ward. I am thankful to say he is better. The 
 accounts were brighter yesterday. 
 
 March \st. — The last month has had none of those 
 journeys which were so pleasant to record. I have not 
 seen Mr. De Joux since I wrote last. The cholera has 
 occupied us all, and our own share of it has been intensely 
 trying; though, through God^s great mercy, only for a 
 short period. 
 
 The untiring devotcdness of the clergy has been a 
 source of great thankfulness and encouragement. The 
 Sunday before last, Mr. Odell was compelled to remain at 
 home. I had the verandah service, attended by between 
 forty and fifty; then (quite unavoidably) the whole morning 
 service ; and then received a report of three cases of cholera. 
 I went to Rochebois to visit one of the sufferers, who died 
 the next day. At the prison, I visited another on my re- 
 turn ; and that evening, after a full French service, w^hen 
 1 preached on the words, '^ Je suis etranger et voyageur 
 chez toi, comme Vont ete tons mes peres," I officiated 
 at the funeral of the third, at about six o^clock. There 
 have been some most distressing bereavements. 
 
 March 6th. — I find I must leave all attempt to send 
 information till next mail, if God permit. The assassin of 
 Mr. Swete has recently died of dysentery. I saw him in 
 hospital, in the cholera ward, and spoke a little to him. 
 His knowledge of English was imperfect, but he under- 
 stood when spoken to of Jesus Christ. What a blessing 
 to have that saving Name to proclaim everywhere ! Our 
 relief fund for cholera is very satisfactory.
 
 MAURITIUS. 201 
 
 March 8th. — I was very sony to send sacli hurried 
 letters home by the last mail^ and that I had not made 
 some journal memoranda of our days of cholera. The 
 work consequent upon the prevalence of that fearful 
 disease amongst us was of a very arduous character^ and 
 some of the cases brought under our notice were very 
 heart-rending. Now it is too late to tiy to gather up the 
 recollections ; they are not sufficiently distinct for writing. 
 We have been very mercifully brought through thus far, 
 and I feel what deep cause for thankfulness and praise I 
 have to my Heavenly Father. That my own attack came 
 before the epidemic was rife, only a few weeks after it 
 first appeared, was cause of much thankfulness. My dear 
 wife^s has come towards the close, and a fortnight earlier 
 would have been much more serious in several ways. 
 May we use our renewed health to His glory, " in whom 
 we live and move and have our being V' 
 
 The meeting for orphans, &c. was held yesterday, at 
 half-past three o^ clock. It was high time we should get 
 up some society, for the cases are far too numerous and 
 pressing for me to undertake them. 
 
 March 13th. — Yesterday I took Mr. Ross and Jean 
 Sarradie with me to the Powder-Mills Asylum, which 
 presented, in some respects, a very mournful contrast 
 with the scene witnessed there on former occasions. Two 
 days before there had been quite a panic among the 
 ilfrican childi'en. They had all been crying, and almost 
 shrieking, that ^Mfricans get sick, die : Malabar get sick, 
 no die.'' This arose from the recovery of most of the
 
 202 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Indian children who had been attacked with the cholera, 
 while the Africans succumbed almost from the first hope- 
 lessly. In consequence of this panic, and the spread of 
 the disease, Mr. Ansorge had written to ask for a sepa- 
 ration and removal for a time. I had strongly opposed 
 this, feeling sure that no extemporised home would have 
 the comfort of their own place ; and that, both in respect 
 of food and lodging and care, they were better near the 
 Asylum. Of course my opposition could only be shown 
 in the way of expressing an opinion, as I have nothing 
 whatever to do with the Asylum officially. 
 
 On reaching the place, I saw white tents pitched just 
 outside the walls, and felt much relieved by the sight. 
 This partial change and dispersion is just what is wanted. 
 On going in, we saw Mr. Ansorge, looking worn and de- 
 jected. They were just going to nail up the coffin of the 
 chief tailor of the Industrial School, and the grief of his 
 poor wife, who had been one of the pupils of the Insti- 
 tution, was most affecting to witness. She had nursed 
 him with the most unremitting attention, and Mr. An- 
 sorge said they had loved each other as only a Christian 
 man and woman can do. He had been baptized in the 
 prison nearly six years ago by Mr. Taylor. Mr. Ansorge 
 said, that for the five years he had known him, his con- 
 duct had been in every respect that of a Christian man. 
 His dying experience was of the most consoling character, 
 and he departed in full assurance of faith. When Charles 
 Kooshalce, who watched with him all the last night, 
 asked him if he felt trust in the Lord Jesus Christ, he
 
 MAURITIUS. 203 
 
 replied, " How can you ask me that question ? Since 
 tlie day of my baptism I have always had strong faith in 
 the Lord Jesus Christ/^ It is very delightful to witness 
 the simplicity and strength of the faith of such converts 
 from heathenism. At his own urgent request the Lord^s 
 Supper was administered to him. There were several 
 sick in the hospital. One poor man seemed veiy ill, hut 
 the doctor had hopes of his recovery when he saw him. 
 A few minutes afterwards he was dead. It is a fearful 
 disease for rapidly extinguishing the vital powers of the 
 body. A nice little boy, who had long wished to be bap- 
 tized, when the proposition to baptize him in the hospital 
 was made, said, " Oh, no ! VThat a place to be baptized 
 in ! I want to go to the church when I am well.^^ As 
 he got worse, he sent of his own accord to ask that it 
 might be done there, and now he is gathered to his 
 rest. 
 
 The children all seemed pleased to see me, and eagerly 
 laid hold of the Cottager's Illustrated Sheet, and many 
 little books, sent in a box from Sheffield. Mrs. Ansorge 
 seemed greatly sustained in her trying duties, and they 
 are much comforted by the assistance of Mr. and Miss 
 Farmer, from the Training College at Cheltenham, who 
 give such help as well-trained Christian teachers might 
 be expected to do. Jean Sarradie was at once penetrated 
 with a feeling of the deepest interest in the poor sick, and 
 expressed his readiness to go to help if he were wanted. 
 
 March ISth. — Our last days in England last year are 
 recalled to us often now. "We are still going on well at
 
 204 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 home, but I am sorry to say that the cholera is rather 
 on the increase again. Yesterday, when I came in, I 
 heard there had been twenty- two deaths on Sunday. To- 
 day I looked in at the Military Hospital to see a dying 
 man^ of the name of Taylor, and was shocked to hear of 
 the death of the hospital serjeant, a few minutes before, 
 from cholera. Since my return to the vestry, I heard of 
 the rapid death of Jacob, our former servant, from the 
 same disease. Mr. De Joux has been incessantly at hard 
 work, and I trust he will have been blessed in his deed. 
 "What a happy use for his new house to have been put to, 
 to have been made the refuge for the sick, and dispen- 
 sary of the district ! 
 
 April 14/A. — One little countiy journey was taken 
 last Tuesday, when Mr. Wiehe and Mr. Jourdain went 
 with me to Creve Cceur, to examine two or three spots 
 for a site for an Orphan House, which we hope may be 
 placed near the Church Missionary property. Many cir- 
 cumstances combine to make the Lent services solemn 
 and impressive to us all this year. One pleasant dif- 
 ference from other years is, that the clergymen at Moka 
 and Plaines Wilhems and Pamplemousses, instead of 
 helping us, are having services each day this week 
 themselves. 
 
 April 2Sth. — Mr. De Joux is now thoroughly installed 
 in his new house. One cottage we visited with him last 
 Thursday had two most grateful occupants, — a woman 
 and, I think, her grandson. She, cured of a swelling 
 all over, which had seemed desperate, by his vigorous
 
 MAURITIUS. 205 
 
 and persevering measures^ under God^s blessing^, and 
 the youth of a bad and obstinate wound in the leg. 
 Her gratitude, first to God and then to Mr. De Joux, was 
 very fervently expressed. The school was flourishing. 
 
 One of our Mozambique boys has been, and is, very 
 ill. Sarradie^s care of him is most beautiful. By night 
 and by day he is watching him and tending him most 
 carefully, and his report of the boys is truly gratifying. 
 He says none of his work ever gave him such satisfaction. 
 '^^Even that boy," he says, "in all his sickness, if anything 
 is given him to refresh him, do you think he would take 
 it without breathing a prayer ? Oh, no ! " Two very old 
 men are in a caze on the grounds, and I was so pleased 
 to hear their account of Sarradie^s kindness. They call 
 him "Mons. Jean," and they say they are sure of a visit 
 from him once or twice every day. " Si n^a pas soleil 
 levant, eh bien ! li viui soleil couchant. Tons les jours, 
 jamais manque. Bien bon pour nous." 
 
 May 5th. — On Saturday the 3rd we had a meeting 
 which had much of a solemn character about it, on the 
 occasion of laying the foundation-stone of the new church 
 within our grounds. Mr. Mellish, who had done every- 
 thing in the way of the building arrangement, was kept 
 away by domestic affliction, and General Breton and his 
 daughter will probably never see the building when 
 finished. Old Negroes had come fi-om a distance to see 
 the ceremony, and I hope that some of them will profit by 
 the ministrations within those walls. I hope that the next 
 foundation-stone laid will be that of Vacoas church.
 
 206 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 May SOth. — Yesterday (Ascension Day) was one of 
 those bright days of encouragement which leave a happy 
 and strengthening impression behind them. Our own 
 people assembled a good deal earlier than usual in the 
 verandah, and I had a very interesting service with them, 
 taking as my subject the first eleven verses of the first 
 chapter of Acts. I was enabled to hold the French ser- 
 vice through Mr. OdelPs kindness in taking the service 
 at the cathedral. Mrs. Ryan, the two boys, and I, then 
 went on to Burnside, where we had prayers, reading one 
 of the Psalms for Ascension Day — the 103rd. It is now 
 within a few days of seven years since we first took up 
 our sojourn for a few days at Burnside on arriving here, 
 and in a few days more our kind friends will be following 
 so many others, and going home. At St. Barnabas' 
 church there were seven clergymen present besides myself. 
 Mr. Wheeler, the incumbent, read the morning service to 
 the end of the Psalms ; Mr. Cochrane, the Lessons and 
 remaining part; Mr. Franklin directed the choir; Mr. 
 Hobbs read the first part of the Baptismal Service ; Mr. 
 Ansorge baptized the children ; I received them into the 
 congregation of Christ's flock, and finished the service, 
 having given them a short address just before they were 
 baptized ; Mr. Odell read the Epistle ; the Governor and 
 Mrs. Stevenson, and Mr. and Mrs. Ansorge, were the 
 sponsors : Mr. Bichard took no part, but had to hurry to 
 town directly the service was ended for a marriage. 
 
 There were 72 children to be baptized, some from each 
 of the presidencies of India, and a few East- Africans.
 
 MAURITIUS. 207 
 
 Their demeanour was reverent, earnest, and devout, and 
 many of tlie older ones answered well in English, when I 
 questioned them in the course of my address, which was 
 based on the statement that hy baptism we profess to 
 belong to Christ. How do we belong to Christ ? In two 
 ways, — 1. By trusting in Him. 2. By following Him. I 
 then endeavoured to iuipress on them the reasons for 
 trusting in Him^ which are suggested by Christmas-day 
 and Good Friday, Easter-day and Ascension-day; and 
 afterwards instanced as points to be imitated, — 1. He 
 ^^was subject unto^^ His parents. 2. His hearing and 
 answering questions in the house of God. 3. That He 
 was always seeking the glory of God. 4. That He was 
 always doing good to man. Hence their need to pray 
 that they might have good thoughts about others, speak 
 good words, do good actions, &c. ; and then I recurred 
 again to the Ascension, and the blessed prospect open 
 before all who trust in Him and follow Him on earth, of 
 following Him into heaven. A few remarks in contrast 
 on the misery and the wages of the devil's service were 
 made towards the close, and I felt how well they must 
 have been taught and trained to listen and answer as they 
 did. There was a thrilling power in the expression, 
 " that hereafter he (or she) shall not be ashamed to con- 
 fess the faith of Christ crucified, and manfully to fight 
 under His banner against sin, the world, and the devil ; 
 and to continue Christ's faithful soldier and servant unto 
 his life's end.'^ 
 
 I felt very thankful tnat the Governor and Mrs.
 
 208 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Stevenson were permitted to see such results of their pa- 
 rental solicitude for those poor orphans. May the blessing 
 they have been made the instrument of imparting be largely 
 reflected on themselves ! As for Mr. and Mrs. Ansorge, 
 none but attentive observers and eye-witnesses could at all 
 appreciate what they have done and w^hat they have gone 
 through. My own feelings were of a very satisfactory and 
 hopeful character, because I had seen the Institution, 
 superintendents, teachers, Industrial masters and pupils, 
 under the severe pressure of the visitation of cholera, and 
 had witnessed the fruits of Christian principles and 
 Christian teaching under the most trying circumstances, 
 and had heard the most delightful accounts of the prayer- 
 ful spirit which had manifested itself among some of the 
 children, and the trust and confidence with w^hich others 
 had passed into the valley of the shadow of death. One 
 of the girls baptized yesterday, a paralysed cripple, was 
 suffering from a severe attack of cholera when I saw her 
 before, and the teacher. Miss Farmer, who brought a little 
 Indian infant in her arms to the font yesterday, was 
 taking a poor little African girl to the cholera hospital 
 when I last visited Powder Mills. 
 
 The mention of the African girl reminds me that seve- 
 ral Africans wished to be baptized yesterday, and were 
 much disappointed when their request was refused, on the 
 ground of their not yet understanding sufficiently the 
 elements of Christianity. It was mentioned before that 
 the cholera was much more fatal among the East-Africans 
 than among the Indians, in proportion to the number
 
 MAURITIUS. 209 
 
 attacked. Their mournful remark was : '^ Cholera come 
 to Indian boy, he no die ; come to African, he die. Indian 
 boy baptize, African boy no baptize/^ or something to 
 that effect. I mention this to illustrate the conscientious 
 endeavour to make the service truly profitable, and to 
 prepare them for it^ which has marked aU the preliminary 
 proceedings in the work. 
 
 After the seiwice was over, Mr. Ansorge baptized six 
 Bengalee adults, and before I left the grounds I had the 
 pleasure of hearing that the Governor had given 50/. 
 towards the Moka Endowment Fund. Mr. Wiehe and 
 Mr. Jourdain joined me in looking over the glebe at 
 Pamplemousses for a site for an orphan-house, and, 
 through ]\Ir. "^ATieeler's corchal interest in the matter, 
 we were able to select an admirable spot just opposite 
 the entrance to the Botanical Gardens. Thus, various 
 parts of our work were brought before me in an en- 
 couraging way, with evidence that a fruitful blessing 
 from God is attending the feeble efforts we are making 
 to do good in His name. One touching incident con- 
 nected vAih. Mr. Bichard's unwearied labours I must 
 mention. A poor Englishman came ,to me the other 
 day, suffering from the Madagascar fever, and wanting 
 a ticket for the hospital. Mr. Bichard went himself to 
 get it, and has attended the poor man diligently ever 
 since. This morning he reports him dead of cholera. 
 His testimony about the part of Madagascar he has been 
 in, was, that "if he had been made of Bibles and 
 tracts,^' or had had ever such a number, all would 
 
 p
 
 210 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 have been distributed^ the people were so intensely eager 
 to get them. I trust his earnest words on that point 
 will not be forgotten by us. 
 
 June 2nd. — A painfully solemn interest has been 
 added to the proceedings on Ascension-day, from the 
 death by cholera, that veiy night, of one of the little 
 girls who had been baptized then. Her name was 
 Bertha. She was in full health and spirits at eight 
 o^clock that evening. Towards morning, Mrs. Ansorge 
 heard a groan, and went in, and found her struggling 
 in the terrible disease. In a few hours she was gone. 
 How touching this makes our retrospect of the sweet 
 singing of the beautiful hymn that morning, — 
 
 " See the Good Shepherd, Jesus, stands," &c. 
 
 And especially the two last lines, 
 
 " And keep the gate of heaven in view, 
 Till we shall enter there." 
 
 A different case within these few days has been the 
 rapid death, from the same disease, of a poor Indian leper, 
 whose loss of limbs and extreme sufferings made him 
 welcome the messenger who came to summon him, as we 
 trust, to the place where pain and weeping are unknown. 
 The cholera is still prevailing. Eleven deaths occurred 
 on Saturday. Yesterday, after the service, it was pleasant 
 to find the verandah congregation looking at the walls 
 of the new church, which are rising rapidly. I have 
 found the Ascension-services most attentively followed 
 by our people. Prosper's deep "Amen/^ when I con-
 
 MAURITIUS. 21] 
 
 eluded my exposition this morning, seemed to come from 
 the fulness of his heart. Poor old man ! He looks very- 
 happy. But a veiy few more years will probably see the 
 extinction of the race that were slaves. We are getting 
 more and more fully into the knowledge of a large 
 number of them. It is very sad, as old age comes on, 
 to see in many of them the results of early ill-treatment. 
 Poor old Prosper and Marie put on mourning directly 
 they heard of the death of Prince Albert. 
 
 Journal of a Visitation Tour to Grand River S.E., 
 Grand Sabhj and Mahehourg. 
 
 June I9th to June 21st, 1862.— Early on Thursday 
 morning, June 19, we started, Mr. Cochrane and I in 
 one carriage, Mr. John Douglas and Mr. Ryley in 
 another. The catechist, Charles Kooshalee, walked 
 ahead, but we missed him on the road, and instead of 
 going to Grand River South-East, he went to Mahe- 
 hourg, where we found him on Friday evening. In a 
 wild uncultivated spot, about foui-teen miles from towTi, 
 we came upon a police-serjeant, who was superintending 
 the erection of a wooden house, and whom I recognised 
 as the soldier of the 5th who had attended upon Captain 
 Johnson at Lucknow. He thankfully received some little 
 books and tracts, and after a short conversation with him 
 we moved on. A mounted policeman directed us to a 
 new road, and introduced us to the Road Surveyor, w^hose 
 announcement that there were seven miles of "Macadam/' 
 2J inches thick, before us, was not vei-y cheering. The
 
 212 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 road here was extremely beautiful^ passing through an 
 ancient forest, with every variety of fern and creeper 
 mingled with the foliage of the different trees, presenting 
 new aspects at every step. Our road then took us 
 through a very fine estate, L^Etoile, close under the 
 Camisard and Bambou (of Grand Port) mountains, with 
 the beautiful river flowing between us and them. When 
 we came to the end of the Trois Hots we turned into 
 Captain Paddle's estate, at Riviere Profonde, where we 
 stayed nearly an hour, and then went on to Grand Kiver 
 South-East. Mr. Ryley and Mr. Douglas stopped at 
 Beauchamp, Mr. Cochrane and I went on to the Military 
 Poste, where an officer of the 24th was in command, 
 named Sawbridge; and though he had only gone down 
 the day before, he made us very comfortable. An en- 
 gineer on the railway-works, Mr. Higginson, was staying 
 at the Poste, and we spent a very pleasant evening. 
 Books and tracts were given to the serjeant for the soldiers, 
 and very thankfully received. 
 
 It was with veiy sad feelings that I ascertained, for the 
 third time, the utter absence of all means of education 
 for the children of the labouring classes. For the large 
 fishing-village east of the Poste, for the Grand River S.E. 
 village itself, and for the settlement just across the ferry — 
 no school, no teacher, and the strongest desire for one 
 expressed by the people. Assurances of interest and en- 
 couragement were given to me by some of the leading 
 people ; and in the many cazes which I visited it was the 
 one story, "No instruction — we should be most thankful
 
 MAURITIUS. 213 
 
 for it." Here occurred one of those striking instances of 
 encouragement which are the more valuable, because so 
 utterly unexpected. At one fisherman^s caze, to the 
 question, " Have you any children at school ?" the answer 
 was given, " Yes, one.'' " ^There V '' At Mr. Nicolo's.'' 
 '' TVTiat Mr. Nicolo V '' At the :\rorne." Now a look 
 at the map -^^ll shou', that whether the Morne is sought 
 by the coast line, or (which would be much shorter in time) 
 by coming to town, the distance is more than forty miles. 
 The woman was a catechumen of Sarradie's, and having no 
 school at Grand Eiver S.E., left her child at the Morne. 
 How intensely I wished that our Morne school were better! 
 The probable result of my strong representations this time 
 will be the establishment of a Government-school down 
 there. 
 
 June 20th. — After a refreshing night and a deli- 
 cious bathe in the sea we proceeded in a pii'ogue to 
 Petit Sable, the estate of ]\Ions. Cheron — a visit not to be 
 forgotten. As we passed across the lovely bay, the boat- 
 men showed me a house recently erected, well propped 
 at the four corners, and shut up. Mr. Mahon, a young 
 Irishman, who had brought out excellent testimonials from 
 Lord Londonderry and from the Rector of his parish in 
 Ireland, had just finished the house, and had written to 
 me to tell me of it, when he was struck with virulent 
 cholera, and died in a few hours. His brother-in-law, a 
 young man between 20 and 30, was also seized and 
 died, and a sister-in-law of 16, taken at the same time, 
 also died, and was buried in the same grave with her
 
 214 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 brother. It seemed a most solemn interruption to our 
 work, \^liicli has been so long delayed ; and the stillness 
 and beauty of the scene in its natural features, seemed only 
 to impress the more the solemn lessons of death and judg- 
 ment. The sea was like a molten lake, bounded to the 
 south by the long line of reefs, with white foaming waves 
 incessantly leaping up over them ; and on the land side, the 
 tall wood-covered mountains in the distance were reflected 
 in the water; and between those mountains and ourselves 
 there were lower heights covered with sugar-canes, and 
 then the grassy plain down to the coral beach. As we 
 moved on, we came in sight of Mons. Cheron's residence, 
 and heard most happy accounts of his kindness and charity 
 from our native boatmen, who told me what I well knew 
 before, but with a freshness and emphasis which were very 
 cheering to listen to. Then we had to go and see our 
 venerable friend, and to hear of the illness and death of 
 his daughter, who had always been so kind to the poor, 
 and especially to orphans. She had gone to the camp to 
 attend on Indian women ill of the fever, and had caught 
 the fever herself, and when she knew that she was to die, 
 expressed her firm trust in her Saviour, — " Je sais en Qui 
 j^ai cru." I have seldom heard an)i;hing more touching 
 than the old man^s description of the last scene of her life. 
 She was suffering from thirst, and one of those standing 
 near asked her if she would not like a little arrow-root ; she 
 said " Yes," but that she would not take it, as she knew 
 her father had to give her medicine in the morning, and 
 she did not wish to go against his directions in anything.
 
 MAURITIUS. 215 
 
 '' Je ne voudrais pas contrarier papa en rien.^^ He was 
 reclining on a couch not far off, and heard this_, though 
 they thought him sleeping^ and he at once came up and 
 asked her if she would take some arrow-root^ and gave it to 
 her. And after a little soothing conversation he placed 
 her head gently on the pillow. She expressed much satis- 
 faction, and said she was going to " sleep so sweetly, and 
 would awake very brightly.^^ And then the old man^s 
 voice failed him, as he tried to say that she did sleep 
 sweetly, and had a good awaking, pointing to heaven. 
 His account of the trials of the cholera was very graphic, 
 their remoteness from medical attendance being great. 
 Madame Cheron was very ill in bed. I went and prayed 
 with her. Another daughter was absent, on account of 
 the illness of her child. In the midst of all this there 
 was the greatest calmness and submission to the will 
 of God, and if any question had arisen as to the source 
 of Mons. Cheron^s charity, and his good hopes about 
 the departed, and his resignation in suffering, the answer 
 would have been found in the well-worn Bible which was 
 on his table. 
 
 • We resumed the question of the School, and I hope 
 now to establish one there on the Grant-in-Aid system, 
 and trust that, if I am permitted again to visit those 
 parts, it will not any more be to explore, but to inspect. 
 It is a great comfort to me to feel that some personal 
 effort has been given on my part to those works for which 
 I ask kind friends at home to give us help. 
 
 Very important help was given on that day by Mr.
 
 216 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAll. 
 
 Clavk from Maliebourg, who brought his own two ex- 
 cellent horses,, and pressed (though that is scarcely the 
 word, where all is so freely lent) the ponies of two of 
 the neighbouring proprietors into our service. I walked 
 most of the way, but rode a little, just to provide against 
 excess of fatigue. A proprietor of the name of Sornay, 
 and another of the name of Portal (the latter a fellow- 
 passenger in the "Noma" in 1860), were very kind; 
 and we sat some time in Mr. Sornay^s verandah, having 
 some refreshment, and enjoying the beautiful prospect of 
 the Mahebourg bay, and islands and reefs, which has, 
 doubtless, given it the name of Belle Yue. A veiy 
 touching incident occurred here. On passing an Indian 
 camp, where I had found on a previous occasion a man 
 who possessed a copy of the Gospel by St. John, I 
 made inquiries, but he was gone, and there was neither 
 Christian man nor Christian book there. I said a few 
 words to them, chiefly with the view of preparing the 
 way for the missionary or catechist, about the excellent 
 religion of Jesus Christ. AYhen we had gone on a little 
 way, a voice suddenly sounded out behind me in Creole, 
 " Is that a religion that Lascars may enter V A better 
 text could not well be, and I enlarged on it. Presently 
 another of the followers spoke to the man who had ques- 
 tioned me in Bengalee, and he then told him in Creole 
 the excellence and advantage of that religion, ending 
 with " Quand vous fini mort, vous allez case du Bon 
 Dieu la haut, 9a bien bon cimin 9a," &c. Without 
 laying undue stress on the probable direct results of this.
 
 MAURITIUS. 217 
 
 it opens a most comfortable prospect for the man's atten- 
 tion to the missionary who shall be able to go to him, 
 and speak in his own tongue " the wonderful works of 
 God/^ 
 
 At Mahebourg we spent a very pleasant evening at 
 Mr. Clark's ; Mr. Pennington, the clergyman, being one 
 of the party. Next day, visits to an interesting convert 
 from Popery, (who expressed his deep obligation to Mr. 
 Bichard), to the gaol, to the churchwarden on business, 
 and to the S. P. G. schoolmaster and catechist, took up 
 the time before our departure. Mr. Clark kindly drove 
 us to the thirteenth milestone from town. On our way 
 we passed an estate famous for the large badamier-trees 
 in front of the house ; one branch which I measured was 
 nearly sixty feet, and Mr. Clark measured another fifty- 
 four feet long. There were originally four, but one morn- 
 ing, when the resident manager awoke and looked out 
 of his window, one of them had disappeared — all but the 
 tops of the highest branches. The ground is cavernous, 
 and some great fall had taken place in the night, like 
 that which, a few years ago, took place in a field near 
 Ripon. AYe walked a good part of the way up the hills 
 near Curepipe, and took the opportunity of drinking 
 some excellent water by piercing the " Traveller's Tree;" 
 by no means so fine a specimen as those described in Mr. 
 Ellis's book. At the plantation of Mr. Evelyn, thirteen 
 miles from town, we found my little ponies; and after 
 enjoying most heartily the hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. 
 Evelyn, we came on, just in time to receive the unex-
 
 218 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 pected pleasure of news from England, the mail being 
 early. 
 
 June 2Gth. — With reference to the above, I have 
 taken every measure that I can for the establishment of 
 a Government School at Grand River S.E., and a Grant- 
 in- Aid School at Petit Sable ; and I have great hopes 
 that, by the time I return from Madagascar, all will be 
 en train. 
 
 July Sth. — The "Gorgon" is arrived. ^Ve hope to 
 sail for Madagascar on Thursday or Friday; and it is 
 now likely that I shall be at the laying of the stone at 
 Vacoas before I start. The operations of the Church of 
 England in this diocese have received most encouraging 
 help from the Christian liberality of Miss Burdett 
 Coutts, who has placed the sum of 2000/. at my disposal 
 for purposes of endowment, on the condition of help 
 being elicited from local sources. This munificent gift 
 came at a most opportune moment. The ravages of 
 cholera had taxed our energies, and led to a great strain 
 on charitable funds, and produced an amount of orphan 
 distress which seemed imperatively to claim the establish- 
 ment of a Protestant Orphanage. The demands for pas- 
 toral ministrations amongst our own people had steadily 
 increased in proportion to the attempts made to supply 
 them. Three churches in course of erection, and three 
 more urgently demanded, were added to calls for mis- 
 sionary effort ; and my mind was beginning to yield to 
 unwonted feelings of apprehension, when a letter from the 
 Hon. A. Kinnaird conveyed to me the animating intelli-
 
 MAURITIUS. 2] 9 
 
 gence tliat we had been so kindly remembered for good. 
 The results are already most cheering. Partly from for- 
 mer exertions made by the Rev. S. Hobbs^ and partly 
 from recent efforts^ I am able already to report as 
 follows, — 
 
 1500/. from Mauritius itself, for the purchase of five 
 acres of ground at Yacoas, on which a parsonage, with an 
 excellent dispensary attached to it, is now built, and an 
 Industrial School, and a school for boys and girls; while 
 a stone church is in progress of erection, to replace one of 
 palisades, which is entirely rotten on the windward side. 
 
 Vacoas .£1500, to meet o£'oOO* 
 
 At Plaines Wilhems . . .250 „ 250* 
 At Moka, tbe gift of a bouse, which 
 
 is to be removed, and an acre of 
 
 ground on which to build it, and 
 
 a subscription of . . . 225 „ 225* 
 
 At Savanne 200 „ 200* 
 
 At Seychelles (I hope) . . .200 „ 200 
 
 At Pamplemousses . . . 250 „ 250 
 
 Port Louis, Mahebourg, Black River, still uncertain. At 
 Plains ATilhems we have secured three acres of ground, 
 with buildings on them, to be used for materials for a 
 parsonage. This short sketch will show how fruitful the 
 donation of 2000/. is likely to prove. 
 
 * Those marked with an asterisk are already paid.
 
 220 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FROM NATIVE RECORDS. 
 
 Before I proceed to give some details of my visit to 
 Madagascar^ it seems natural to advert_, for a few mo- 
 ments, to the deeply-interesting subject of the past 
 history of that island. Yet I cannot offer to my 
 readers a mere repetition of a narrative with which most of 
 them must already be well acquainted. In four or five 
 different publications* all the leading facts of a history, 
 which is almost without a parallel, have been made 
 familiar to the English public. I shall not, therefore, 
 present the same facts in any narrative of my own. But 
 the progress of the Gospel in Madagascar has been marked 
 by one peculiar feature. When the messengers by whom 
 the message of mercy was first conveyed to that island 
 were driven away, they left behind them scholars who 
 could not only, under the teaching of the Holy Spirit, 
 keep alive the flame of Divine truth, but also put on 
 
 * Such as, The Gospel in Madagascar ; ]\Ir. Ellis's Three 
 Visits : and two or three other volumes.
 
 MADAGASCAR. 221 
 
 record both the sufferings of the faithful followers of 
 their Lord, and the chief events of their chequered 
 career. These disciples, deprived as they were of all 
 European help, took care to preserve the memory of 
 the fearful scenes through which they themselves had 
 passed. Every circumstance of importance in their long 
 struggle with theii' persecutors was faithfully recorded. 
 A portion of these interesting narratives has been 
 placed in my hands_, and I feel unwilling that so 
 valuable a document should remain unknown. I pro- 
 pose, therefore, to print it, in the present chapter, as 
 a fitting introduction to the account which I have been 
 requested to give of my visit to that interesting island. 
 And to it I shall append a few further accounts of the 
 same description — letters written, many years ago, by 
 the native Christians to their friends in Mauritius, 
 narrating their trials and difficulties, and intreating 
 advice and assistance. The first section of this chapter 
 will appear for the first time in print on this occasion; 
 the second will be gathered from published accounts, 
 given at the time, i.e. many years since, but which, 
 to many of my readers, will be still new. 
 
 I begin, then, with a portion of the native history, 
 translated from the original Malagasy documents by 
 one who was himself formerly a labourer in that island. 
 The aptness of the Scripture citations will strike the 
 reader. As a motto to the whole histoiy, they placed at 
 the head, Luke, xii. 32, 33. — " Fear not, httle flock,'' 
 &c. &c.
 
 222 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAK. 
 
 I. — The Suppression of Prayer to God. 
 
 (written by RxVTSARAHOMBA.) 
 
 " Not long will last 
 The night-storm ; 
 Not many days 
 Bring only sorrow : 
 Yonder the dawn appears, 
 For happiness is near. 
 
 The clouds will break, 
 
 The darkness vanish : 
 
 Accomplished be the "Word ! 
 
 It cannot fail : 
 
 But we shall see ere long 
 
 The land good to dwell in." — Hymn 157. 
 
 It was in the month of March, 1835, that the Sove- 
 reign suppressed prayer to Jehovah God, and belief in 
 Jesus Christ : in the first place, calling all the white 
 people, with their wives and children, to assemble at 
 Ambodinandohalo to hear the Queen^s words. 
 
 Assembled, the word of the Sovereign was told by 
 Ratsimanisa, — " As to you, whites, you can do this in the 
 English language among yourselves; but my people can- 
 not do so ^' {i. e. pray to Jehovah and Jesus Christ). 
 
 Then were the Missionaries exceedingly grieved, 
 having no 'answer. Going to their houses, they could only 
 pray to Jehovah to change the Queen's heart, if that were 
 good, and to save the believers.
 
 malagasy documents. 223 
 
 Of the White People, Missionaries. 
 
 This was the Testament given by Jesus Christ to His 
 disciples, — Matt. xxYui. 19. — ^'' Go ye therefore, and 
 teach all nations, baptizing them in the name of the 
 Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost. ^' 
 
 This is what the Missionaries have exhibited in these 
 latter days, when preachers have stood forth with many 
 good people, as it were executors of the will, to fulfil the 
 Lord^s commands. So, calling a Kabary (assembly), they 
 said, ^^lio is willing to go and teach the foolish and ignorant 
 natives ? Then there were those who replied, " Enough ! 
 let me go." So they divided the work and labour among 
 all of them ; and those that remained at home said, " Go, 
 then, and we will support you, your wives and your 
 children, in all your journey; for that is oui- share. ■'^ 
 
 Those who went were called '^ Missionaries," or 
 " Sent ;" and they were not people of no standing, with- 
 out fathers or mothers in the land of their nati^-ity; but 
 there were relatives, having grief to part with them, and 
 friends who wept over them; and themselves also felt sor- 
 row at parting with their relatives, for they left persons 
 whom they loved, for their own love to the salvation of manr 
 kind and the glory of God upon the earth. But they gave 
 their own lives willingly, and esteemed them as nothing, 
 that they might accomplish and fulfil the will of God. - 
 
 After this, a very stringent Kabary* (proclamation) was 
 delivered to the people, telling what things the Queen 
 
 * A word used in various senses ; as, in English, we have 
 " Order," meEining either rank, or regularity, or a command.
 
 224 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Ranavalona disliked; viz. prayers to God. So she enacted 
 a strong law on the subject : for she said, " This has 
 changed the ancestral customs ; and the things done by 
 the nodor (ancestral) kings are what must be observed.^' 
 So the people were forbidden to do these things again [i. e. 
 to pray, be baptized, or anything of that kind, or the 
 substance of it) ; and they were forbidden to pronounce 
 the name Jehovah, or to say. Believe in Him, or 
 Jesus Christ. For she said, " What are these words 
 used by you ? we know nothing of these words : for was 
 it not Rakelimalaza (Little but Renowned One), and 
 Ramahavaly (the Answerer), and Manjakatsiroa (the One 
 King), who made Ranavalomanjaka to reign? So do not 
 this thing,^-' said she. 
 
 Then those who had done so were ordered to accuse 
 themselves, each one telling what he had done, whether 
 going to chapel, praying, preaching, or being baptized. 
 
 It was seen that the Queen was exceedingly angry: 
 for the music ceased in the Palace, the cannon was con- 
 tinually fired off, and there w^as a great terror. 
 
 For about eight days the people went up on a hill to 
 accuse themselves j* nevertheless there were some that 
 did not go up, for they said to themselves, '' We will wait 
 for God, to see what Jehovah wdll do for us.^' Then the 
 people feared, for they thought some would be put to 
 death, and did not see what the Queen would do to them. 
 
 The Missionaries also had great anxiety: ''for it was 
 we,^' they said, "who first taught them, and these are our 
 * To give in their confessions ; which were written down.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 225 
 
 children against whom the Queen is angry." So their 
 hearts palpitated extremely on this account. All of them 
 then, except I\Ir. Griffiths, wrote a letter to the Queen, 
 saying, " Let us tell your Majesty, if there be blame it is 
 our fault, for we were the origin and authors of all 
 this/^ Then the Queen replied that she did not blame 
 them ; but it was her own people she deemed guilty. 
 
 And the end of this Kabary was, that some were re- 
 duced in rank, and the tribes were fined ; but none were 
 put to death on this occasion by the Queen ; but it was 
 enacted that any who were guilty a second or a third 
 time should certainly be put to death. 
 
 So when the Missionaries saw that there was no 
 longer any means of teaching the people, they all went 
 home in 1835, except the families of Mr. Johns and 
 Mr. Baker. 
 
 Prayer did not then cease, for when God implants 
 His Word in people^s hearts men cannot root it up. For 
 such has been from the death of Stephen (Acts vii.) until 
 this time. 
 
 For from the beginning Christians have exceedingly 
 abhorred backsliding from the knowledge of Christ ; but 
 would rather reply to their accusers like the reply of 
 Peter (Acts, v. 29), — " Vi'e ought to obey God rather 
 than man.^^ 
 
 So it was in Imerina : for there were people who 
 thought not of, nor regarded, the rigour of the Sovereign's 
 law, but esteemed their bodies worthless as a bit of lost 
 iron, and also then- goods, that they might obtain that to 
 
 Q
 
 226 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 which God called them. For they followed the Lord^s 
 words, saying, " Fear not them that kill the body ; but 
 fear Him who can cast away the soul into hell P (Matt. 
 X. 28):''*' and the words, Luke, xiii. 24, — "Strive to 
 enter in at the strait gate." So they went forward on this 
 occasion ; for they said, " We cannot enter the Kingdom 
 of Heaven except through great tribulation." So they 
 visited each other oftentimes; and when they met toge- 
 ther they sang and prayed in whatever houses they as- 
 sembled ; and in the country in such places as were secret. 
 And many people saw and heard this, but were not yet 
 bold to accuse them. 
 
 II. — The Suppression. — another account. 
 
 Acts J iv. 17. — " But that it spread no further among 
 the people, let us straitly threaten them, that they speak 
 henceforth to no man m this name.^^ 
 
 A day never to be forgotten is this day : for at noon 
 the Queen Ranavalomanjaka ordered all the whites, 
 whether English or French, to assemble at Mr. Griffiths'. 
 
 They sent to Mr. and Mrs. Griffiths to inquire if all 
 were assembled. More than five times they sent. The 
 reply was, " They are not yet come." The great ones 
 therefore sent an aid-de-camp to collect them, for they 
 were annoyed at the delay. 
 
 When all were come, the officers of the Palace, more 
 than sixty men, entered, bringing the Queen's word. 
 
 * This is given from memory.
 
 MALAGASY DOCr.MENTS. 2*27 
 
 After Raiuinaliaro, lltli lionour, Chief Officer of the 
 Palace, had spoken the compliments to the Queen, he said, 
 '- The word of the Sovereign to be told you, relatives and 
 friends, is in writing." He added (addressing Ratiaray, 
 10th honour), "Read." It was read. He trembled whilst 
 reading the Queen^s word to the Teachers : for he knew 
 that it could not be felt as agreeable, and liked by the 
 Teachers (Missionaries and others). 
 
 Now the substance of these words was to be golden- 
 mouthed to the whites, calling them relatives and friends, 
 and thanking them for all their bodily and mental labours, 
 teaching her people wisdom and good dispositions ; but 
 yet making a law to suppress at once the teaching of 
 God^s Word, praying to the God of life, observance of the 
 Sabbath-day, public assemblies, baptizing, the Lord^s 
 Supper, the making of a Society (Church), and the pro- 
 nouncing of the name of Jesus. So that thereby the 
 labour of the Missionaries in Madagascar was ended. The 
 Missionaries did not see any word of God by which they 
 could reply to this message. 
 
 Some inquired from Mr. Griffiths, '^^How shall we reply 
 to this?" Others said, "You must reply." So Mr. Griffiths 
 said to the officers, " In a written word the Queen sends 
 to us, so we will also put on paper our reply to the 
 Queen^s words." "Very good," said they. " So do, and 
 send it to me," said Raininaharo. They departed. 
 
 Ratsimahavava (a slave of Raininaharo, put with Mr. 
 and Mrs. Griffiths to learn household work, who had 
 learned every night the Word of God)^ when he heard of
 
 228 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 this suppression of the "Word of God, said, " The Devil 
 will dance to night." 
 
 They (the Missionaries) were in consternation at this 
 message of Ranavalomanjaka. The Teachers of God^s 
 Word then wrote thus, — "This work we have been so 
 long carrying on we deemed to be sweet to your Majesty, 
 pleasing to you, and a thing you liked ; as making your 
 people wise, and cleansing your land and prospering your 
 kingdom ; therefore did we fatigue our bodies and make 
 our minds anxious in teaching your people. Nevertheless, 
 now, at this time, you do not like it, and forbid it : there- 
 fore are we surprised and annoyed that you prohibit the 
 teaching of what is right and lawful.^' 
 
 Then came the Queen's reply to this, — " It is my 
 people that I do not like to change the customs of my 
 ancestors, and therefore I shall prohibit them." 
 
 Then the Teachers waited to see what the Queen 
 would do to the learners. And on Sunday (8th March) 
 following, the Queen^s word was announced to the learners. 
 The people (Ambaniandro) were collected at Mahamasina, 
 to a Kabary, when the Sovereign's word was announced 
 as follows, — 
 
 "This is what I declare unto you, Ambaniandro, 
 (all my people), says Ranavalomanjaka ; it is impossible 
 that in this land there can be two (Sovereigns) ; it is not 
 to be inquired to how many did the kings, Andriatsimito- 
 viaminandriana, &c. &c., leave the kingdom, for to me only 
 was it left. Behold then, you fellows, these customs de- 
 scending from the twelve sovereigns are held by me.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 229 
 
 Ranavalomanjaka ; and now at this time that you fel- 
 lows would change them, even these Yazimba (ancestors 
 worshipped), and Sikidy (divination), and the Sampy 
 (idols), and the customs descended from the twelve kings; 
 I detest it (the change), says Ranavalomanjaka. If the 
 ancestors' customs are contemptuously treated by people, 
 that is a thing I detest, says Ranavalomanjaka. And 
 these words which you fellows use, saying, ^ Believje 
 Him,' ^follow His ways;' those words, ' Baptism,' 
 * Society ; ' you fellows are following the customs of the 
 whites, and on Sunday you fellows abstain from work, and 
 3^ou fellows required to swear and will not, but say, ^True,' 
 ' Verily ; ' you fellows cannot be allowed to lean aside in 
 this matter ; and if you make yourselves masters in this, 
 I hold this in aversion, says Ranavalomanjaka." 
 
 ^^ Then," replied the chief judges, headmen (of dis- 
 tricts), and military officers, "if such is the error (or 
 crime) of your servants, so that on this account our So- 
 vereign Lady is angry (for, indeed, it is in the sky there 
 are no stumbling-stones, but on earth are causes of trans- 
 gression) ; then, Officers of the Palace ! take these our 
 words of reply, and say to our Sovereign Lady that it 
 cannot be inquired to how many did the twelve kings 
 bequeath this kingdom : it is to her Majesty alone : 
 therefore, we plead guilty ; for it is a thing done. So, 
 whatever our Lady decides upon (as punishment) is to be 
 thankfully accepted." * 
 
 * This is the technical language of complete submission.
 
 230 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 To this pica of guilty the following reply was given, — 
 " I esteem not 10,000 people to be many; but if it be a 
 question of changiug the rites and customs of the twelve 
 kings, and rites descended from the ancestors^ then would 
 I cut off twice as many, so I swear (such is my past 
 coronation oath), for I will not suffer fools in my land. 
 Yet, on account of those words of the people^ and their 
 supplication for pardon^ behold ! I give three days for 
 self-accusation in this matter. So, let each one come and 
 confess ; for, if thou (each one) dost not confess in this 
 matter, but art convicted by accusation, thou shalt be 
 put to death by me, says Ranavalomanjaka ; for I am a 
 Sovereign that wdll not deceive.^' 
 
 The people again replied, thanking the Queen, — "It 
 is agreeable to us, sweet to us, swallow^ed by us, what you 
 say, Rabodonandrianampoinimerina (the Queen\s title 
 of honour) ; and we make a plain plea of guilty, for we 
 have done this ourselves, our wives, our children, and 
 our families: so, whatever our Lady determines, we render 
 thanks to her, whether it be long or short ^' (for a less or 
 more severe punishment). 
 
 Then the Kabary broke up, for it was evening. 
 
 On the evening of the next day all the whites were 
 again required to assemble at Mr. Griffiths^ house. 
 Then came Raininaharo, 11th Honour, along with his 
 companions, officers of the palace, bringing a letter from 
 the Queen, saying, — "You can abstain on Sundays, being 
 each one a white person, and observe your customs ; but 
 those taught by you must not abstain or observe your
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 231 
 
 customs : moreover, if 3-ou do not teacli figures (aritli- 
 metic), then you must cease to teach ^^ (or they may cease 
 to learn). 
 
 They then went to Ambatovinakey* and proclaimed, 
 — " You fellows, who kill the moon in your houses (de- 
 secrate the month by observing Sunday), as if you (mean 
 wretches !) could see the moon before the beast of the 
 field If Such has never been my word, says Ranavalo- 
 manjaka, nor a word of the officers of government, nor of 
 the twelve sovereigns ; but you are usurping, changing 
 houses (having secret conventicles), and doing youi' own 
 wills, not abiding under the reign established by Radama, 
 but changing the kingdom/^ 
 
 Then the people replied, — '' We plead guilty on 
 account of tliese things, done by ourselves, by our wives, 
 our children, and our families ; for we thought it was 
 good in our land. Yet now, as our Sovereign Lady does 
 not like it, we plead humbly : whatever our Sovereign 
 Lady does, is accepted with thanks.^^ The bearers of the 
 Queen^s message then replied, saying, — '' Let each one 
 among all of you have his or her name written doTMi, 
 with what transgression he perpetrated, were it only 
 once j tell of the houses where you have done this, and 
 what you have done. You, soldiers ! make a separate 
 
 * A place of public proclamation. 
 
 t The new moon is observed for the Queen to announce the 
 first of the month from the mountain-tops, before even animals, 
 which are always on the look-out ; hence it is an impudent 
 assumption to change days.
 
 232 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 list, telling- what you have done, and your names. In 
 like manner let the scholars, people, and slaves, give in 
 these particulars." Then the word-bearer of the Queen 
 went home, and the people dispersed, going to have their 
 names written down, and the confessions of all learners. 
 Some said, — ''To look for pretty women was our end in 
 going to places of worship on Sundays; for there were 
 assembled the cleanly and handsome when Sunday came 
 round." Others, at Analakely,* — "We were doing work 
 for the Government service under the white people, 
 and they would not have liked us if we had not 
 gone ; therefore we did so." Others said, — " We, 
 indeed, were baptized, but we had no belief; so, 
 when the Queen prohibited baptism, we went away." 
 But the larger number said, — "We were indeed bap- 
 tized, and prayed in many different houses, of which we 
 cannot tell the number we frequented, for we prayed 
 every morning and evening, and on eating or drinking, 
 or whatever we were doing : so, whatever our Sovereign 
 Lady determines, we must give her thanks." Others, who 
 had not been baptized, yet made confession, saying, — 
 '' We have indeed prayed, we know not how often : so, 
 whatever our Sovereign Lady determines, thanks be to 
 her." 
 
 Then were separated those who had been baptized; 
 
 and they sent this reply to the Queen, — "Take this 
 
 our message to the Queen, that we have in truth been 
 
 baptized ; then, whatever our Sovereign Lady decides 
 
 * A great soap manufactorj.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 233 
 
 upon^ we render thanks." When the Queen had heard 
 these messages she repHed, — '' I have heard your state- 
 ments; let them all be put into one list." Then they 
 were made into one summary writing. 
 
 There was one man who had not had his name 
 written down (he was said to be^ like Rafaralahy^ after- 
 wards put to death) ; he went to the chief judges to 
 accuse himself (confess to being a Christian), and said, — 
 " I come to accuse myself, for I often prayed, and went 
 to the places of worship frequently." It was asked of 
 him, — ^MYhat! are you, then, that fellow?" ^^Yes, I 
 also." They said,* — "Now, fellow, make a prayer, and 
 let us hear it." He immediately knelt down and prayed 
 thus, — "0 God over all! Lord of heaven and earth! 
 who hast given us hands and feet ! have mercy upon 
 us sinners, for Thou oughtest to be exceedingly angiy 
 on account of our transgressions and our failings. And 
 bless the Sovereign of this land; prosper her Govern- 
 ment in the right and fitting ways, that her subjects 
 may dwell in peace. Strengthen her servants, subdue 
 her enemies. Let her advisers have just designs and 
 suitable thoughts, to benefit her land, and make her 
 people wise, and to prosper her kingdom. Bless all the 
 people; the Judges and the Officers, the Civilians and 
 
 ^ These were the judges in civil cases, and not inclined to 
 carry out so unprecedented a law : true, it was the military 
 statute law, but they did not like to be the Queen's execu- 
 tioners, to put the Christians to death merely for doing what the 
 Queen disliked.
 
 23i MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 the Soldiers ; whether men or women, little or great. 
 Rejoice the afflicted ; heal the sick ; make the fools 
 wise. Forgive our sins and our errors, because of the 
 sufferings and death of Jesus Christ, Saviour and Re- 
 deemer." 
 
 Before he ceased to pray, the Judges said, — ^' That 
 is enough, for we do not see his fault; but it is the 
 changing of ancient customs that the Queen dislikes 
 in this : so, go home, for we have heard the fellow's 
 prayer." • 
 
 Then all the praying people assembled together, 
 each division collecting together with their companions, 
 to write their names and self-accusations, as the Queen 
 had commanded. Soldiers, scholars, civilians, slaves, 
 each were put down on one paper, and in four divisions. 
 When it was finished, and all names and confessions 
 were entered, it was taken to the Queen.* Oh, how 
 anxious was the talking of the people when this docu- 
 ment had reached the Sovereign ! for they said, four or 
 six out of these four classes will be put to death for 
 doing what the Queen does not like. When the 
 teachers heard this, they wrote a letter to the Queen, 
 in which they said, — ''May it please your Majesty, we 
 humbly beseech ; be not needlessly angry with the 
 peoi:)le that prayed and learned from us, for if there 
 be occasion of anger, and something you disapprove, 
 
 * I heard the numbers of the names estimated at about 
 850, besides others, making about 1000 ; but they got tired of 
 the work, and stopped it.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 235 
 
 which you deem to be guilt_, we who taught are they 
 with whom you should be angr}^^ for with us exclusively 
 they found these things, w^hich did not arise among 
 themselves.'^ 
 
 The answer of the Queen to this was, — "You incur 
 no blame and guilt on this account, but what you did 
 was good : but w^hat angers me with the people you 
 taught is, that they change the customs of the an- 
 cestors ; for they go to the praying-houses continually.'^ 
 
 All desired the return of the Sabbath-day; never- 
 theless fearingly, for fear and the trembling of death had 
 fallen upon a great many at that time : for it was 
 thought that many would be put to death among the 
 people that prayed to God. Especially severe w^as the 
 message sent to the twelve chief learners under the 
 Missionaries, and to Razafimanana, an officer of the 
 10th honour (a General) ; so that there seemed to be no 
 hope for their lives : they must, it was thought, suffer 
 death. 
 
 Now, on the evening of Saturday there was a dread- 
 ful storm of wind, with rain, thunder, and lightning — 
 " such as had never been seen," said the old people ; so 
 that the trees were torn up by the roots, and the house 
 of the great enemy of the Word of God w^as thrown 
 down (he by name Rainiharo) ; and many other houses 
 were destroyed in the villages around on that night. 
 Mr. Griffiths went to Rainiharo to offer congi-atulations, 
 after the custom of the people on such occasions. 
 
 And there happened to be a soothsayer passing by,
 
 236 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and he cried out, '^ Ah ! God is firing from on high ! ^' 
 Some ignorant people said, " The God of the whites, 
 perhaps, is angry with the Sovereign for the suppressing 
 of prayer ; for never have we seen any storm so wonder- 
 ful as this." 
 
 Nevertheless, on Sunday there was no commotion 
 whatever, or talkings ; but the town of Antananarivo was 
 exceedingly silent, w^hether in the palace or the city ; but 
 soon after noon-day on Monday, at about three o'clock, 
 the cannon were fired to summon all the praying people 
 to assemble together. There was great terror. Many 
 said, " The Kabary will be held at Ambatoraka." * 
 
 So the greater part of the people said, ^' Some will 
 probably be put to death." At length, when they heard 
 the voice of the crier calling out to the praying people, 
 " To Andohalo ! to Andohalo ! " then the hearts of all the 
 praying people were comforted, for it was understood 
 that there would be no execution if the Kabary were held 
 there, for it is not the custom to execute criminals there.t 
 
 When all were assembled at Andohalo, those bringing 
 the Sovereign's word arrived. And this was the reply to 
 the people's pardon-begging, and the conclusion of the 
 edicts addressed to them, — 
 
 " Now this is my declaration to you, subject-people, 
 
 * A place where death-sentences are pronounced. 
 
 t It was the design of the mihtary officers, the real govern- 
 ment of the day, to create great terror ; and as nobody was in 
 the secret, we were all in a state of great terror, though death 
 could not legally be inflicted. — Trans.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 237 
 
 saith Ranavolaipanjaka. I would have had these people 
 put to deathj if it had not been for the pardon-begging of 
 the ximbaniandro (loyal people) ; but_, on account of the 
 plea for pardon made by you, this is my edict, — Every 
 sixth shall pay a fine of unbroken money (the whole 
 dollar) ; and the military officers, and civil officers over 
 hundreds, shall be reduced to half their rank. And as 
 to Ratsimiharo, this is the Queen's declaration to him, — 
 If he had not been a part of me and companion, I would 
 have put him to death, saith Ranavalomanjaka ; but he 
 shall be reduced two degrees in rank. And as to Razafi- 
 manana, (the General), because he acted without asking 
 leave of me, but did his own pleasure, therefore he also is 
 reduced two ranks. And with regard to Ravalisa, 8th 
 rank, officer of the palace, who said, ' These fellows would 
 have led me to ])rayer, but I would not,' I will raise 
 him and add one degree to his honour, saith Ranavalo- 
 manjaka." 
 
 Some of the people remarked, *'Ah! this man was 
 wise in not knowing the AVord of God." Others, who 
 knew the Word of God, said, " They who are praised of 
 men for unrighteousness, are an extreme abomination in 
 the sight of God.'' 
 
 This was the great law of suppression under which 
 the Christians suffered for twenty-five years. It was fully 
 accepted by the people. 
 
 On this occasion, the Sovereign proceeded to enact a 
 most severe law, as follows, — ^' If any are guilty a second^
 
 238 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 especially a third time, they shall not live ; T will put 
 them to death/' saith Ranavalomanjaka. Then answered 
 all the Kabary answerers, all the heads of the people, and 
 the military officers (in the name of all the classes), and 
 said, "Firstly, let us render thanks, Rabodonandrianim- 
 poinimerina,* for thy favour and regard to us, our wives, 
 our children, and our families, by which thou dost not 
 put to death, dost not destroy us, on this account. It is 
 grateful to us, swallowed by us, sweet to us. Thanks, ex- 
 ceeding thanks, to our Sovereign Lady. Moreover (to the 
 Queen's messenger), take this our declaration to our Sove- 
 reign Lady, — AVith regard to these words of thine, which 
 no one can alter, that none must transgress a second time, 
 especially a third time, there is no hatred of wives and 
 children, no disregard of relations, that we will not show 
 (to fulfil the law), but we will deliver them up, and will 
 take heed that this shall be no anxious care to our Lady." 
 Then they delivered the Hasina thereupon (a form of 
 tribute in token of loyalty), and the Kabary broke up. 
 
 Then also all the believers thanked God for saving 
 them from the fear and tremor of death; for they said, 
 " Blessed be God, who hath not dealt with us after our 
 sins :'' and they rejoiced in Jehovah at that time. (Hab. 
 iii. 2. 1 Sam. ii. 1, 2. Gen. xxxii. 9, 10.) 
 
 The people then asked permission (from the Govern- 
 ment), saying, "Where shall we put the books of in- 
 
 * A great title, signifying " The Lady Sovereign served by 
 Imerina."
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 239 
 
 struction given to us by the white people?" On the 
 morrow they were told, — "Bring all your books to Soavin- 
 drainihanjaka j let not one hold back a single one at all/^ 
 And this was made perpetual. Therefore, many of the 
 scholars feared to keep any book having in it the name of 
 Jehovah and Jesus Christ. Greatly was the grief of many 
 augmented, for they had hoped to kindle a lamp in the 
 midst of darkness. So the greater number delivered up 
 the books ; yet were there many who retained small por- 
 tions of the books of instruction. 
 
 Afterwards, when some of the scholars taught by Mr. 
 Griffiths resorted to him (as school-children), and did not 
 bring their books and lessons, not even one, Mr. Griffiths 
 said, " Where are the books I gave you?" They replied, 
 "We have delivered them all at the Soavindrainihanjaka." 
 Mr. Griffiths said, " How is it that you have given up my 
 property there ? Many of these books do not contain the 
 name of Jehovah and Jesus Christ. Go and fetch them 
 quickly." So the scholars went and told the rulers, 
 saying, " Mr. Griffiths has ordered us to fetch the books : 
 for there are many among these books without instruction 
 of the Word of God." The reply of the Sovereign was, 
 " Take all the books to Mr. Griffiths (without exception)." 
 Accordingly, on the morrow, the scholars brought all 
 the books to Mr. Griffiths, so that the east of his premises 
 was nearly filled with them. 
 
 And many there were who hid books of the Word of 
 God, putting them into small boxes, and burying them 
 under the earth in each one's house, drawing them out
 
 240 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 at night-time to be read; for they could not of all 
 things abandon the words of eternal life. And some who 
 had many books brought one or two to Mr. Griffiths ; and 
 their language was, when they delivered up the Baiboly 
 and the Testamenta (they called the Old Testament, 
 "Baiboly"), while tears fell from their eyes, ^' We must 
 not hold fast the lamps (or lanterns) to enlighten us 
 in the dark, and to point out to us salvation from ever- 
 lasting sorrow and suffering." And, "Happy were we 
 when we saw that word (of God), and heard the word 
 preached to us." Never can it be forgotten ; but our 
 fathers, our mothers, our children and our relations, 
 occasion us fear, remaining in darkness, not to see the 
 light. For we had hoped to be able to teach them to 
 know God and Jesus Christ the Saviour; but now the 
 means of teaching them are shut up. For the Sovereign 
 will not allow them to be spoken to and taught any 
 longer. This is our grief, making our tears to fall day 
 and night, that, absolutely, there are no means of teaching 
 our children and relations, and of speaking with our 
 fathers and mothers forthwith. 
 
 Now the Christians were "tampina," — shut up, sealed, 
 corked (as the word means), as a bottle that must only be 
 opened by the master. No foreign help, no open sym- 
 pathy : left to themselves and to God.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 2-11 
 
 III.— The First Persecution, 1836, 1837.— 
 Rafaravavy and her Companions. 
 
 Jer. xliv. 4. — " Do not this abominable thing which 
 I hate.^' 
 
 Now after a short time from this period the praying 
 progressed again, and we remembered the word which 
 says, " If we cannot free ourselves from them who speak 
 on earth, how much more from Him who speaks from 
 Heaven V^ Heb. xii. 25. (Quoted from memory.) At this 
 time the number of the people serving God multiplied, 
 and strengthened in mutual love : and the very slaves who 
 afterwards accused her, came to learn from Rafaravavy. 
 So they (the Christians) had prayer on the hill-tops, and 
 in houses, where they met together, as they had formerly. 
 Consequently, on the 26th ofiidimizana (7th month, now 
 near the end of the year), two persons, her slaves, made a 
 compact to look and hear again, that they might lay an 
 accusation. The names of these accusers were Rakasikia 
 and Rambodotafikia ; and the names of the accused were, 
 Rafaravavy, &c. — eight names. 
 
 They laid their accusation before the authorities, 
 who conveyed it to the Queen, who ordered them to be 
 touched (apprehended) by the bearer of the silver spear, 
 called The Hater of Falsehood. And the charge against 
 them by this officer was, " Praying and doing what the 
 Queen has prohibited you from doing.^^ So these were 
 each of them apprehended, and shortly sentenced thus, — 
 " Of the men, they are to lose wives and children (re- 
 ft
 
 242 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 duced to slavery), and for their persons the Sovereign will 
 decide ; and for the bodies of the women also her Majesty 
 must choose/^ Thus accused, they replied, saying, — 
 '^ We cannot deny that we prayed to the Lord of heaven 
 and earth_, indeed; therefore, whatever our Sovereign 
 Lady does must render thanks (or praise, honour) to 
 her." Then were they questioned, and strongly pressed 
 thus, — "Who, individually, are your associates?" they 
 inquired, but no one would tell. Yet there was one of us 
 that boldly gave some names. It was Rasalama (the first 
 martyr). She expressly named Andriamanana, and Rain- 
 itsieva, &c. (Five names of the most devoted Christians 
 are in the list.) So these also were apprehended, as had 
 been the former; and the men were condemrfted to lose 
 wives and children, and the Queen to choose what should 
 be done to their persons, as also the persons (bodies) of 
 the women. There was not one of these that denied 
 having prayed ; so their property was all confiscated, and 
 they made ready (asha\dng to be sold into slavery). After 
 this valuation of them, their friends gave bail for them for 
 a short time, when they were all taken to Ambotondra- 
 fandrana (to be sold), except Rafaravavy, since it was 
 thought she would be put to death : so she was put in 
 bonds in a separate house. So they were all appraised 
 at Ambotondrafandrana, and it was proclaimed, — " These 
 are reduced to slavery for ever and ever — not to be re- 
 deemed." Then the appraised were all put into one house, 
 to be guarded until purchasers were found, and the men 
 were chained : but the women were not bound.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 243 
 
 IV. — The Killing of Rasalama, the First 
 Martyr, 1837. 
 
 '^ These are they which came out of great tribulation, 
 and have washed their robes and made them white in the 
 blood of the Lamb." — Rev. vii. 14. 
 
 " And they overcame him by the blood of the Lamb, 
 and by the word of their testimony : and they loved not 
 their lives unto the death." — Rev. xii. 11. 
 
 When they had all entered the house appointed by 
 the Queen, then spoke Rasalama, — " If I see the Tsitia- 
 laingia* coming I rejoice, for I have hope of life in 
 heaven." 
 
 When the guard in charge heard this, he bound her 
 strongly, and she rose up to be bound ; " for most 
 worthy am I to bear this," she said, " whether it be 
 blows or bonds." 
 
 She also spoke much and sang in the house, and the 
 master of the house was angry when he heard it. Rasa- 
 lama also inquired what words of hers they had reported 
 to the ruling officer. Then said the messenger, "We 
 reported nothing except the words saying, ^ If I hear the 
 Tsitialaingia coming I rejoice, as having hope of life in 
 heaven.^ " " Why," said she, '^ when I spoke so many 
 words, did you report so few trifling ones ? In vain is 
 the net spread if the bird is not caught." She also said, 
 — " The master of sorrow is nothing, but it is the scoffers 
 
 * OjSicer bearing the silver spear.
 
 24i MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 that are dreadful/'* Then again she spoke^ — '^Alas! 
 alas ! the kingdom is destroyed.'^ Then said the guard 
 and the master of the house, — "What is it, you slut, 
 that should destroy the kingdom ?'' They then beat her 
 severely, and bound her fast ; neither did they cover 
 her with the lamba (outer garment). Then she said to 
 them, — " You will see evil when the last man comes,'^ 
 (meaning death). Again she spoke, — "I ask, sirs, my 
 garment ; for I am now cold.-*' And she prayed. Then 
 they gave her the garment, when she said, — "Yea; for 
 she who asketh, receiveth ; and to her that knocks, it is 
 opened ; and, moreover, they seeking, find.'' Then came 
 again the writer, saying, " Put in good order your words, 
 for we do not perceive what words we should Vrite to be 
 taken to the Queen." She replied again, — "Yonder is' 
 where I would be joined (meaning the house of Eafara- 
 vavy), to be a substitute for my, companion ; for behold 
 you sa}^, ' Rafaravavy shall be put to death' : it is not she 
 w^ho shall diCj but I shall be killed in her stead. And as 
 to these men, Indraintsieva, east of Analakely, and An- 
 drianantoandro, who told of them ? Was it not I only ? 
 And shall not that be for their glory? (One of these, in 
 fact, suffered martj^dom in 1840.) There w^as no one to 
 raise them up, so I exalted them. And as to these, Rat- 
 sarahomba, and Ratiaray, and Ramanakoraisina, these 
 shall be my associates when the last man comes." She 
 then said, "Andriamatan (means, eyes pressed), and An- 
 
 * That is, as if it were said, " The Queen is not much to be 
 cared for, but evildoers or speakers are a dreadful thing."
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 245 
 
 driamarivo (stoned), and tlie last man_, (death/^) (This is 
 unintelligible except the last.) 
 
 After this, they offered her rice to eat, but she 
 said, — " This little rice is brought to bribe us ; but 
 when shall it happen that Rasalama shall serve Ingia- 
 hivony?"* (The officers took the condemned Christians 
 at a nominal value for slaves, &c., but she would sooner 
 go to heaven, the land of liberty and purity.) Again 
 they pressed her to eat, the master of the house saying, — 
 " If you will eat, we ^dll relax the fetters/^ " Yes, then, 
 I will eat a little,''^ she said. So they loosed her chains 
 again. Then she clapped her hands and said, — "With 
 these I received the Bible, and I read it.^' Afterwards 
 she spoke in like manner, on recalling the taking away 
 of her garment, — " Why did you dishonour the Queen ? 
 Am I not of one kind with her ? for, is she not a woman 
 as well as IV 
 
 The landlord then spoke to all present, saying, — 
 " If even a dog's mangled carcase were hung up over 
 me, when should I be found doing what my Sovereign 
 Lady disapproves ? Would it not be better to precipi- 
 tate one^s self over the rock than do what her Majesty 
 dislikes ?^^ Rasalama replied, — "Here thou, Ramian- 
 dravola, sayest, ' If a mangled dog were over me, when 
 should I do what the Queen dislikes?' And if to be 
 thrown from the rock of making right (name of the 
 
 * The language is strongly negative, — " Shall I become the 
 slave of Ingiahivony ? No, never ! Let me go to Christ and 
 heaven !"
 
 246 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 rock over which criminals are thrown), how should I 
 not follow the Queen^s words ?* Oh^ you shall see evil 
 when the last man comes ; for, don^t you understand 
 that the last man is Death ?^^ 
 
 They now removed her into a separate house from 
 the rest. And when she was to be killed they put on 
 the death-manacles, and led her by the chapel of Mr. 
 Griffiths, for it had been her house of prayer. Then 
 she said to the people accompanying her, — " In this 
 house I heard the words of the Saviour; for here was 
 I taught, as by a father and mother, the word of the 
 Saviour." She was then condemned and led to execu- 
 tion, they proclaiming to the people, — " For being high- 
 mouthed, this one is put to death, IMerina Amba- 
 niniandro ! So I announce to you, she would not wait 
 for my judgment upon her, therefore I have put her to 
 death." Still, on the road she continued to sing, for 
 she hoped for the life in heaven ; so that some people 
 said, — '' Where is that God to whom she has prayed, 
 that He does not save her now?" The rest of her asso- 
 ciates were brought into slavery, and divided amongst 
 the military officers. 
 
 * This is one of the strange sayings they often use to express 
 themselves strongly — here for unbounded loyalty and sub- 
 jection.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 247 
 
 V. — RafaralahYj a Soldier : the Second Martyr 
 PUT TO Death, 1838. 
 
 '' Be thou faittfiil unto death, and I will give thee a 
 crown of life." — Rev. ii. 10. 
 
 After a short time — about five months — there was 
 another accusation laid in the month Adaoro, 1838 (per- 
 haps April). There was a man named Rafaralahy; this 
 man made great progress in belief and in the love of God 
 and Jesus Christ; he also manifested great kindness to 
 people, and he taught his wife and the servants (slaves). 
 Many people had affectionate friendship with him. There 
 was one man, Rafiakarana, in trade with him, so that 
 they two were close friends, and they conversed about the 
 Word of God, which it was forbidden by the Queen to do. 
 That conversation caused his death, since he disregarded 
 the prohibition of the Queen in this matter proclaimed 
 to the people. 
 
 For after a while he showed to him (Rafiakarana) the 
 Bible and some other books which he possessed. Rafia- 
 karana w^as astonished when he saw these, and exclaimed, 
 "T^Tiat, here then is England! and Mr. Griffiths (the Mis- 
 sionary) is yet here, and I almost get into danger ! " After 
 awhile they two estimated their stock, and it was with the 
 money of Rafaralahy the business had been carried on ; 
 that caused the dispute. Rafaralahy sufi'ered awhile and 
 did kindness to Rafiakarana, for he wanted to have no dis- 
 pute whatever with him, but endured, though the money 
 was his own in fact. Then rose up again Rafiakarana and
 
 248 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 his associates to accuse Rafaralahy that there was again 
 prayer with him. 
 
 Rafiakarana also elevated the kiady^ over the rice and 
 small property — all of it — saying it was his. He then 
 laid claims of debts upon Rafaralahy, and seized three of 
 his slaves, sometimes saying, " I have debts due to me from 
 Rafaralahy, and seize you in payment ;" and sometimes say- 
 ing, ^^ When he prayed I took them.^^ In short, his asser- 
 tions were continually changing. Nevertheless, Rafaralahy 
 had made over these slaves to his mother and sister; 
 and in fact the Queen^s judgment was given to restore to 
 him the rice and small things which had been claimed by 
 Rafiakarana, so that he did not obtain a farthing ; yet he 
 desired again to get the land of Rafaralahy^s relations. In 
 short, there were no persons, whether military officers, or 
 believers or unbelievers, among all the people, that did 
 not hate Rafiakarana on account of his deeds, and he is 
 now very miserable in his living among the people in his 
 own fellowship (acquaintance). 
 
 Then came the Tsitialaingia to apprehend Rafaralahy, 
 and he could not deny the accusation. He was pressed 
 to tell of his associates (turn informer and save himself, as 
 was offered to all), but he did not tell; so a confiscation 
 was ordered. They therefore took his person and his wife, 
 and bound him in his house. And in the house he was 
 confined: so they cooked rice, and placed it before them 
 all; and when they had eaten about a mouthful, just then 
 the executioners came to convey him to the place of execu- 
 
 * This was a pole, to signify that he claimed the property.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 249 
 
 tion. And they inquired,, sayings " Is the prisoner here V 
 The people in the house (his wife and two slaves, with the 
 aide-de-camp and others), gave no reply : but he himself 
 replied, saying, " Here I am/' They then removed the 
 chains from his legs and took him forth, tying his hands 
 behind him. So he went out, showing no fear whatever. 
 And he clasped hands with his wife and bade her farewell. 
 Now, when approaching the place of execution, he turned 
 his head to look at the slaves and smiled ; and he spoke, 
 but the two servants did not hear what he said. He went 
 a little further and then looked back again, and said to the 
 slaves in presence of the people, " Be not vainly grieved 
 for me, but take heed to your own deeds ; for this will 
 beautify* me." Then the people reviled him exceedingly 
 on account of that speech. Again he looked back on the 
 servants and smiled. Arrived at the place of death, the 
 executioner said, '^Make haste now." Then he said, "Do 
 not needlessly hurry me, but let me retire by myself a 
 little.''^ Then he kneeled down, and so was speared ; and 
 he died. His brother then begged his corpse, which was 
 given, and it was buried. 
 
 It was on Monday, the 19th of xldaora, 1838, that 
 Kafaralahy was apprehended on account of his prajdng. 
 His wife, children, and property were confiscated, and 
 eventually himself put to death. On the morrow, Tues- 
 day, his two slaves went to see him, in the house where 
 he was bound, along with a certain aide-de-camp ; and it 
 happened while they were there the rice was ready, so it 
 * Mahamaudina — to cleanse, pohsh, &c.
 
 250 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 was set before them; and when they had taken one or 
 two mouthfuls^ the six men appointed to take him sud- 
 denly approached with a loud noise, and called out, out- 
 side the house, — "Where is the prisoner bound here- 
 about?^^ No one replied, and they inquired again. Then 
 Rafaralahy himself replied, — "Here I am.^^ The men 
 said, — "Stand up, fellow." So he stood up; and he, 
 the man and his wife, clasped each other^s hands. The 
 executioners took a small rope from the place of his rice, 
 then they removed the iron chains from his feet, and 
 tied his hands behind him with the cord. On being thus 
 taken away, he bid farewell to his companions in the 
 house; but nobody replied, for there was terror upon 
 them. So they took him away. The four of the men 
 went two on each side of him, and the other two went 
 before, carrying the spear to the place of putting to 
 death, Ambohipotsy. And those two servants (slaves) of 
 his, as also that certain aide-de-camp, were there. 
 
 The gentlest and kindest of men, he showed strong 
 affections, but no fear. 
 
 When they three came to the brother^s house, they 
 found the people of the house cooking rice to send to 
 him ; so they told them that Rafaralahy was dead. 
 When his brother heard that, he started off to go to 
 Ratiaray (a palace officer), and to the relations of Rafa- 
 ralahy, that they might beg his corpse from the Queen. 
 Arrived there (at the Palace), they told Ratiaray, who 
 went to the Queen to beg the body. But the brother of 
 Rafaralahy returned to watch by, and save the body, lest
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 251 
 
 it should be devoured by wild dogs^ whilst the relatives 
 waited the Queen^s reply. It was getting dark ; he stood 
 astride some hours^ I believe, over the body, holding his 
 eight-foot long spear grasped in both hands, to keep off 
 some twenty or thirty dogs, and killed six or eight. At 
 length Ratiaray returned, announcing that the body was 
 granted. Then Rafaralahy's two slaves went, accom- 
 panied by four men, bon'owed by the brother from the 
 relations, to fetch away the body. It was night, and an 
 exceedingly dark night ; so they carried the body. They 
 went eastward, below Antananarivo (several miles) ; and 
 just as they reached Ampefiloha, west of Anjanahaiy, 
 the cannon was fired off, signifying bed- time (about 
 9 P.M.). Arrived at Ambavahady, in Janahary, they 
 laid down the body to go and buy a shroud, and fetch 
 persons to assist in the burial. When all met, a third 
 part — being a great number — went before to dig the 
 grave. It finished, he was buried about the middle of 
 the night. The burial ended, the people went home. 
 
 The papers given above appear, I believe, for the first 
 time, in English ; and they will hardly be read by any 
 without interest. But besides these, there are a few 
 other documents of the same class which were printed 
 in a Missionary periodical, some years since, but which 
 have only been partially given in the works recently pub- 
 lished on the subject of Madagascar. It has been sug-
 
 252 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 gested to me that these native records of the days of 
 persecution ought not to be suffered to drop out of sight, 
 and that it would be advisable to add them to the pre- 
 viously untranslated narratives which have occupied the 
 former part of this chapter. Yielding to this suggestion, 
 I shall here give some of the more interesting of these 
 journals and letters. 
 
 The first that I shall give is a letter to friends at 
 Mauritius, dated June 25, 1841, — ■ 
 
 " Our salutations to you, say the little flock in Mada- 
 gascar. Through the blessing of God on us we are yet alive, 
 and do not forget you and all our friends. This is 
 what we have to communicate to you, beloved father ; the 
 affliction which has occurred to us, and of which you have 
 heard, greatly increases. Executions, ordeals, and miseries 
 increase throughout the country, so that three thousand 
 persons have lately taken the tangena (poison -water) at 
 Vonizongo, by order of the Sovereign and the officers; 
 and in other places it has been the same. The wretched- 
 ness of the people is unutterable ; it is exceedingly great 
 through the country, and we announce it to you, our 
 friends in the Lord. However, through the blessing of 
 God, we are able to send you this letter. Do not forget 
 us ; do, sir, let us all be remembered by you. We have 
 received your letter conveying your salutation to us 
 all. We now send you the bearer of this letter to see 
 you, and his meeting you will be the same as if we our- 
 selves met you in person. He has our entire confidence ; 
 and he is acquainted with us all. You may safely tell
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 253 
 
 him whatever you have to communicate to us, and what- 
 ever he tells jovij that you may receive as our communi- 
 cation. He has done all he possibly could to preserve the 
 little flock ; tell him what you advise us to do. Do 
 rescue us, beloved father, if possible. If God be not our 
 defence, we are dead men : we are as a city set on a hill, 
 that cannot be hid. The bearer of this letter cannot 
 write : will you please to put in writing what you have to 
 say, lest he should forget it. 
 
 " Our service under the government continues to be 
 exceedingly severe. When the children of Israel served 
 under Pharaoh, perhaps they obtained some little respite; 
 but ours is incessant labour : we must work both day 
 and night. 
 
 " With regard to the number of our little flock, the 
 bearer of this will tell you, if you ask him. Our especial 
 salutations to you ; you are as our anchor, and we have 
 seen how zealously and devotedly you have laboured for 
 us ; and not only for us who survive, but for them that 
 have fallen asleep. May the Lord bless you in all your 
 work, and may you not lose your reward !" 
 
 A second letter was written by four other Malagese to 
 the same friend, — 
 
 " June 26th, 1841. — To you, beloved friend, health 
 and happiness. We have received your letter, and the 
 various things you sent with it. May God bless you ! 
 May Jehovah God lift up upon you the light of His 
 countenance, for the compassion you have shown to the 
 sufi^ering and afflicted people of God ! It is not in our
 
 254 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 power to repay you. May He bless you, and all that is 
 yours, whether in going out or in coming in ! 
 
 "You desire us to come to you.* That is good; 
 but there is too much on the road at present to permit 
 the attempt : many are engaged, going and returning, in 
 conveying timber for the Queen's houses. The path, 
 therefore, dear friend, is too difficult as yet ; but, through 
 the blessing of God, we do hope to meet you.f You ex- 
 hort us to take courage, and not to be cast down. We 
 accept your exhortation, and rejoice. You ask us also if 
 there is anything we want ; and desire us to tell you. 
 No^v there is one thing that much afflicts us, — our want 
 of Bibles. We can conceal them, though there are 
 many enemies. Those we possess are becoming quite 
 worn out. 
 
 " With regard to our means of livelihood, it may be 
 said, we have and we have not. All our property was 
 taken from us before we were reduced to slavery; and 
 we are not yet free, but remain in servitude. However, 
 it is the word of the Lord, ^Consider the ravens, they 
 sow not, they reap not, yet God feedeth them :' and so, 
 beloved friend, the Lord has pity on us. 
 
 " We have been in very great affliction and danger, 
 but God has mercifully preserved us thus far. Saluta- 
 tions to all the congregation with you, from the little 
 flock scattered, for the shepherds are gone. However, 
 
 sight 
 
 I. e. to escape to Mauritius, 
 t Being known as Christians, it was needful to keep out of
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 2oO 
 
 we still meet and visit each other occasionally. Our 
 faithful companion conveys this : do not hesitate to place 
 confidence in him/^ 
 
 In the following year, they wi'ote as follows^ — 
 
 ^' Antananarivo f July Sth, 1842. — May you live and 
 be blessed of God, beloved friend ! x\nd how are you ? 
 for we are in the enjoyment of health through the 
 blessing of God, and we now inquire after your welfare 
 in a letter. I tell you that our trials are greater now 
 than ever, because the number of the persecuted Christ- 
 ianis is increasing daily. The officers of the Queen are 
 searching for them everywhere, to put them to death. 
 We do not know what to do, as the road for escape in all 
 directions is almost impassable, and our hiding-places are 
 nearly all known to our enemies, so that the persecuted 
 Christians are at present truly afflicted. If you can fix 
 upon any plan, or find any way for us to escape, write to 
 us immediately in answer to this letter. And may you 
 live and be blessed of God, beloved friend ! '' 
 
 "Antananarivo, July 16th, 1842. — May you live and 
 be blessed of God, beloved friend ! How are you and 
 your family? I am in the enjoyment of health through 
 the blessing of God, and am alive to inquire after your 
 welfare in a letter. And I tell you, my dear friend, that 
 the present trials of the Christians are very heavy to be 
 borne by flesh and blood, but they are even light to be 
 borne by the mind and soul that lean on the Lord. 
 
 " I tell you that two of our number have been accused 
 and condemned (as the others had been before) to per-
 
 256 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 petual slavery. Four brothers have been recently accused 
 and pursued. Obadia and Ralaijao they could not find, 
 as their friends succeeded in concealing them, but Ra- 
 bearahaba and Ratsitahina were caught and put to death, 
 in Vonizongo, on Sunday and Monday markets, and their 
 heads were cut off and fixed on poles. The persecutions 
 are carried on with such vigilance at present as to make 
 concealment extremely difficult. Leaning on God's mercy 
 is our only hope of existence here. 
 
 " I received letters twice from you ; one from Tama- 
 tave and another from Mauritius, in which you have 
 truly sympathised with us, and given us excellent counsel. 
 I told you in a former letter, that the Queen ordered the 
 tangena to be given me, but by the blessing of God I 
 got over it. Join me, my beloved friend ! to bless the 
 Lord who hath blessed and preserved me alive. Five of 
 our friends are hiding themselves with me, and I shall 
 take particular care of them; but the others go from 
 place to place to seek for something to support nature. 
 
 " I assure you that I shall pay the strictest attention 
 to what you have told me, and shall do all that lies in my 
 power, by the help of God, to commiserate our distressed 
 and persecuted friends, even after every farthing that you 
 have placed in my hands is spent. 
 
 " May you live and be blessed of God ! saith your 
 friend." 
 
 ^^Antananarivo, July 21^/, 1842. — May you live and 
 be blessed of God ! And how are you and your family ? 
 I tell you, my beloved friend, that our troubles are still
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 257 
 
 increasing — a letter an-ived yesterday to inform us that 
 the robbers, on the 12th instant, discovered two of our 
 sisters in the deserts — Rafaravy and Razafitsaroana, and 
 took them away from their concealment. 
 
 '^ These five robbers went up to the ^-illage in the 
 night, after all the people were gone to sleep, and found 
 the two women in one house. They tied their hands 
 and feet, and carried away their clothes, and everything 
 they found in the house. They returned to the house 
 to seek for tobacco, and, in searching for it, they dis- 
 covered our two sisters concealing themselves in the 
 rice-cellar, and carried them off. As to the little money 
 you have placed in my hands, I shall pay the strictest 
 attention to distribute it among the most needy and 
 distressed Christians. Remember me to all friends, and 
 may you live long, and be blessed of God, beloved 
 friend!" 
 
 In the year 1845 they wrote as follows, — 
 
 ^^ Our salutations to you. We inquire after your wel- 
 fare. We are sorry it is so long since we heard from you. 
 We earnestly desire to hear of your state, and should be 
 delighted to see your handwriting. 
 
 " With regard to our condition here, we are well ; but 
 two sisters the Lord has taken away; and another, the 
 wife of one of us. So far as we can judge respecting their 
 removal, it is happy ; for we indulge the hope that God 
 has received them through the salvation which is in Christ. 
 'Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord/ and won 
 derful indeed is the blessing of God : for He has truly
 
 258 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 answered our prayer^ and your cries : so that, as to 
 ourselves, not any of us have been apprehended by the 
 persecution. 
 
 " The number of the learners is very greatly increasing ; 
 and those who were reduced to slavery, ^ never to be re- 
 deemed,^ have been permitted to be redeemed. Yes ! 
 wonderful and astonishing altogether is the power of God, 
 for He rescues His people from the hands of the wicked ; 
 He redeemed Israel from slavery; and He plucks them 
 from the hand of the devil, that they may become the 
 people of God. Read Acts, v. 39. 
 
 " Be therefore strong in prayer for us, friends ! Tell 
 all your companions, as widely as you can, that ^ what is 
 not possible with men is possible w^ith God,^ and ' none 
 can hinder what He does.^ Do not be unmindful of the 
 childi-en that God has given to be nursed and trained 
 by you, for God will not be unmindful of you ; and He 
 will do still more abundantly ! Therefore be earnest in 
 prayer, beloved ! for prayer is power, and strength, and 
 life; for God hears your supplications there, and sends 
 His answers to us. We earnestly desire to have some 
 spelhng-books and reading-lessons. 
 
 " With regard to the general condition of the country, 
 the people are more and more afflicted ; the seasons are 
 more and more severe; the work becomes harder; the 
 imposed service more oppressive ; and the Government does 
 not change. Three of our friends are deceased (besides 
 those before mentioned). We are not able at present to 
 write at great length, because the oppoi-tunity of sending
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 259 
 
 a letter has come suddenly ; but, if there should be any- 
 thing else to say, we shall send again. 
 
 " And now, in conclusion, beloved ! when we ex- 
 amine the word of God from the beginning to the end, 
 and the passages which are suitable to us in the Word, it 
 gives us hope and confidence indeed. We see that God is 
 powerful j that no one can pluck out of His hands, nor 
 hinder that which He is doing. Read, if you please, Dan. 
 iii. 27, 28 ; iv. 34, 35 ; vi. 20, 22. Earnestly, therefore, 
 plead on our account and your own ; for, if God be with 
 us, who can be against us ? (E,om. viii. 31-39.) 
 
 " We have been very much grieved to hear of the death 
 of Mr. Johns : and yet again we rejoice, for he has been 
 received by the Saviour. 
 
 " All the Christians in Madagascar present their salu- 
 tations to all you that are in Christ Jesus, in whom 
 friends who love one another, even though distant, are 
 united in one, — say all your friends and companions in 
 Madagascar.^' 
 
 The next document which I shall give is an account 
 of the persecution of 1849, from the journal of a Christian 
 native who was present. Some passages are necessarily 
 omitted, for the sake of brevity, — 
 
 " The persecution was commenced on Monday, the 
 19th of February, 1849, by an order from the Queen's 
 Government to demolish two houses which had been used 
 as places of worship. This order was carried into effect; 
 at the same time five persons were arrested and put in
 
 260 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 irons. All possible means were used to induce these pri- 
 soners to reveal their companions : three of them re- 
 fused, but two of the five at length gave the names of 
 others, of whom four were immediately seized. 
 
 " On the 22nd, two other persons, a father and his son, 
 were arrested. On the 29th, a number of the people were 
 summoned to meet the officers of the Queen, to know her 
 will as to the manner in which the Christians were to be 
 dealt with. ^ These are the words of the Queen,^ said 
 one of the officers, — ' I ask you, saith the Queen, — tell 
 me the truth, — tell me no falsehood. What is the reason 
 you will not forsake this new religion and mode of wor- 
 ship ? I have deprived officers of their honours (rank) ; 
 put some to death, and reduced others to perpetual 
 slavery ; and yet you still persevere in practising the new 
 religion. What is the reason you will not renounce it V 
 Whereupon two of the Christians, in the name of their 
 companions, replied, ' that they were constrained (to 
 persevere) by reverence for God and His law.^ 
 
 " Another assembly of the people took place on the 
 25th, when the Queen^s officers again brought a royal 
 message, in these words, — ' If any new religion or mode 
 of worship, and especially this worship of yours, be in- 
 troduced and practised in my country, I forbid it : it 
 shall never be done. These are the things that are pro- 
 hibited, — Baptism; the ceasing from work on each Sab- 
 bath, or seventh day; the forbidding to swear by father 
 or mother, or by the Queen ; the refusing to sacrifice 
 bullocks, or to worship the idols. Therefore come
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 261 
 
 forward^ all of you who have done these things, and con- 
 fesSj that I may determine what punishment to inflict on 
 you ; for if any one shall wait until he is accused by 
 another, that person shall be punished without mercy/ 
 
 " On the 14th of March, nine persons, five of whom 
 were vromen, belonging to the province of Yonizongo, 
 when called on to take the oath prescribed, declared their 
 adhesion to the Christian faith, and were put in chains and 
 wi-apped in mats. On the 16th, a soldier, who refused 
 the oath of abjuration, was similarly treated. 
 
 "On the 21st, aU the people who had accused themselves 
 were ordered to repair unto Analakely, to take the oath, 
 and to invoke curses upon their heads if they should trans- 
 gress any more. But an officer of the oth honour, when 
 called upon to take the oath, replied, ' It is God alone 
 that I worship, for He alone can do all things for me, 
 and I shaU not pray to any other object whatever/ So 
 he was put in chains, to await the Queen'' s pleasure. 
 
 " On the 22nd, the swearing in of the people was con- 
 tinued, when two more persons, one of them a sei-vant 
 of Prince Ramonja, the Queen^s nephew, refused, and 
 were put under aiTCst. On the following day, there were 
 two others. One of these, Ramany, stood up and said, — 
 ' 1 believe in God, for He alone can do all things ; and 
 I desire to obey whatever He commands me ; but as to 
 swearing by the Queen, or by one^s father or mother — 
 a lie is a lie still, whether you swear to it or not. I 
 believe in God, and put my trust in Christ, the Saviour 
 and Redeemer of all that believe in Him.^ He also was
 
 262 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 put in chains, to await the Queen^s pleasure. At the 
 same time, a female named Ranivo, of the tribe of 
 Ralambo, avowed her trust in God and in Christ, and 
 was put in prison. 
 
 " The next three days were occupied in inquiries 
 among the people, as to the houses where they assembled 
 to worship, and who were the preachers, when Rabet- 
 sarasaotra and Rasoalandy were mentioned. 
 
 '' On the 28th, another large assembly of the people 
 took place, when the officers of the palace delivered the 
 Queen^s message, — ^ I, the Queen of Madagascar, say 
 that no religion whatever, besides that of Andrian- 
 impoinimerina and Radama, and the ancestors, shall 
 ever be introduced or practised in this my country; 
 anything else is totally rejected by me. Had I not 
 ordered the followers of the new rehgion to accuse them- 
 selves, they would soon have overturned the country. 
 I deem them rebels; and I will tell you how I have 
 punished them, — as the spirits of Andi'ianimpoinimerina 
 and Radama have revealed to me.^ 
 
 ^' The prisoners, before mentioned as having been put 
 in chains, were then brought into Analakely, each being 
 borne by two poles on men's shoulders, wrapped in mats, 
 and their mouths stuffed with rags to prevent them from 
 speaking. The female, Ranivo, alone being unconfined, 
 and made to walk behind. 
 
 "The punishments were then proclaimed. 1. The wives 
 and children of all the prisoners were reduced to slaveiy. 
 2. Those already slaves were condemned to work in
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 263 
 
 chains all the rest of their lives 5. The multitude 
 
 that accused themselves were to atone for their offences by 
 paj^ing each three bullocks and three dollars ; but half of 
 that sum was forgiven them. 6. The criminals in custody 
 were, four of them to be burnt alive, and the rest, four- 
 teen, to be thrown from the rock Itsinihatsaka, and their 
 bodies afterwards burnt. This sentence was executed 
 upon them. 
 
 " Then all the rest of the people were called upon to 
 take the oath of allegiance, — drinking the holy water 
 mixed with the holy earth taken from the tombs of the 
 twelve kings. The Christians who had been condemned 
 to slavery were then sold in the presence of all the people. 
 
 '^ The Prince Eamonja, the Queen's nephew, was con- 
 demned to pay one hundred dollars as an atonement, 
 and Rajoaka, an officer of the palace, to pay fifty dollars ; 
 but both these penalties were afterwards reduced one-half. 
 All honours possessed by any of the Christians were de- 
 clared to be forfeited." 
 
 A list then follows of the numbers sentenced to these 
 various punishments, fioes, &c., and the whole number 
 amounts to one thousand nine hundred and three persons. And 
 this large number of Christians w'as discovered, more than 
 twelve years after the last Missionary had left the island. 
 
 I pass over several years, and give a letter of the date 
 of 1854,— 
 
 " Antananarivo, Mh July, — To the beloved Christian 
 brethren in London, — We have received the letter written 
 by you on the 7th of January, 1854, speaking of the afflic-
 
 264 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 tion which we have endured, and telling also, to encourage 
 us, of your love and oneness of heart with us in Christ. 
 And we rejoiced greatly in God when we read your letter, 
 for your reminding us of the love of Christ deeply affected 
 our hearts. Read Rom. v. 3, 4, 5. Therefore would we 
 praise God, the Father of Jesus Christ our Lord, who 
 has blessed us and enabled us to bear those calamities. 
 And we search the Holy Scriptures day and night; they 
 fix our hearts, even though men mock and speak evil of us. 
 Read Matt. v. 11, 12. 2 Cor. iv. 15-17. Matt. x. 22. 
 And we praise the great Redeemer, who has chosen us out 
 of the world to be His people. Read John, xv. 16. 1 John, 
 iv. 10, 19. That also encourages us and supports us in 
 the love of Him. And we desire that, by the help of God, 
 we, together with you, may rejoice in the great Redeemer, 
 who hath caused us to love each other greatly in His name. 
 Read 2 Cor. iii. 5. John, xv. 5. 
 
 "And when we have examined and thought on the 
 counsel given to us by you, then our hearts have been 
 gladdened, and we have rejoiced, and we thank you in the 
 name of Christ ; for the counsel given by you to us has 
 caused our hearts to be comforted and soothed in our faith 
 and peace. And when we heard that Rev. W. Ellis and 
 Mr. J. Cameron had come to visit and see us, and desired 
 to see the flock of Christ, we were glad, and rejoiced greatly 
 that you had sent them to us, that we might see their faces 
 and shake hands with them : it would be like our seeing 
 you all, therefore we rejoiced on that account. 
 
 "And we have rejoiced also on account of Rev W.
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 265 
 
 Ellis and Mr. James Cameron arriving at Tamatave from 
 Mauritius_, for we have received good counsel and the word 
 of God fi'om them ; we also received letters from them, 
 and wrote to them^ and we rejoiced and were glad on that 
 account. Read 2 Cor. vii. 6_, 7 ; ii. 4. The books sent 
 by J. Cameron and Rev. W. Ellis have come to us, but 
 many are the people of God and they (the books) are not 
 sufficient : therefore we say to you, Finish the work, for 
 the people are diligent, through the great mercy of God- 
 Then you who have sent, and we who have received them, 
 may rejoice. 
 
 " And we also say unto you, beloved brethren, forget us 
 not in your prayers in the day and in the night. 2 Thess. 
 iii. 1. Col. i. 3. 1 Thess. v. 25. And now we come with 
 our remembrances, and to make salutation to all the flock 
 of Christ that are in your land, or in other lands, who have 
 sympathized with us, and borne affliction with us. Acts, 
 xiv. 22. Matt. x. 38 ; xvi. 24. 
 
 ^' We hear of the sympathy of the flock of Christ in 
 your land and in other lands towards us. May we, with 
 you, beloved brethren, praise God everlastingly for the 
 grace of Jesus Christ our Lord. Matt. v. 7. May the 
 love which comes from God, and the word of peace which 
 is above all knowledge, be with you ! '^ 
 
 One other letter, dated more recently, will fitly intro- 
 duce the account of my own \dsit : — 
 
 " Antananarivo, Sept. IIM, 1861 .—To Rev. Wm. Ellis. 
 — We have received the letter that you wrote in the month 
 of June, 1861, which came from London, and we rejoice
 
 266 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 at the exhortation you gave for our continuance in Jesus 
 Christ, and your remembrance of us in your prayers to 
 God ; and that the brethren and sisters mth you ceased 
 not to entreat God on behalf of the brethren and sisters 
 with us. 
 
 " And now God has heard the prayers which we have 
 offered to Him_, and Madagascar is wide open for the 
 Word of God ; those that were in bonds are now all re- 
 leased from their chains, and are come to Antananarivo. 
 The pilgrims that were in hiding-places are now to be 
 seen; and these are now new things with us. 
 
 " On Friday, the 23rd of August, Ranavalona the 
 Queen died, and Rakoto Radama was raised to be the 
 King of Madagascar : on the 23rd of August, 1861, he, 
 Radama 11. , was raised to be the King. 
 
 " But there was nearly a contention about it, for Prince 
 Ramboasalama hired many people to set him upon the 
 throne, and there was nearly a struggle at Antananarivo 
 among the people. But God brought their foolish plans 
 to nothing, and the officers, and the judges, and the 
 leaders of the people were banished by the king, and sent 
 away as exiles. Prince Ramboasalama was also banished 
 from Antananarivo, and those people that were chained and 
 banished were those people that were strong in persecuting 
 the Christians. And now we thank God for subduing 
 the enemy. 
 
 " When the people heard it proclaimed that Radama II. 
 reigned, all the people, both great and small, rejoiced ex- 
 ceedingly; and the Commander-in-Chief, Rainiharo's son,
 
 MALAGASY DOCUMENTS. 267 
 
 and his family, and some of the officers and Christians, did 
 all they could to cause Radama II. to reign. But all these 
 people had not power enough to do that ; for it was God 
 who sought to do good for Madagascar, and gave strength 
 to these people to cause Radama II. to reign. 
 
 "And on Thursday, the 29th August, 1861, we that 
 were in concealment appeared : Rainivao, Ramiandry, 
 Rainiketaka, Razaka, Rabodo, and Andrianbahiny ; then 
 all the people were astonished when they saw us that we 
 were alive and not yet buried or eaten by dogs, and there 
 were a great many of the people desiring to see us, for 
 they considered us as dead — and this is what astonished 
 them. On the 9th of September those that were in fetters 
 came to Antananarivo, but they could not walk on account 
 of the weight of their heavy fetters and their weak and 
 feeble bodies. 
 
 " And this we tell you, our beloved friend, that v/ho- 
 soever of our brethren or sisters wish to come up to 
 Antananarivo, there is no obstacle in the way — all is free; 
 for Radama II. said to us : ' Write to our friends in 
 London, and say that Radama II. reigns, and say, that 
 whosoever wishes to come up can come.^ And bring all 
 the Bibles and Tracts with you, for we long to see your 
 face, if it be the will of God. We are much in want 
 of medicine, for many are sick and feeble among the 
 Christians, and we long for you to come up to Antananarivo. 
 And we visit you, and we visit your wdfe, and we visit 
 your children, and all the brethren and sisters in the 
 faith j until we meet may God bless you.
 
 268 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 
 
 The subject of the evangelization of Madagascar had 
 been familiar to my thoughts ever since my appointment 
 to Mauritius. On the journey out^ in the spring of 1855, 
 I read Mr. Ellis's two volumes on the History of Mada- 
 gascar ; and when Mr. E. came out in 1856 I had 
 several conversations with him_, and took a deep interest 
 in his proceedings. One part of my employment on 
 board the " Lynx/' in 1859, during the two months' 
 cruise to the Seychelles and Chagos Islands, was a 
 careful perusal of his second book, which is so well cal- 
 culated to sustain any interest which may have been 
 produced before as to the condition and prospects of 
 Christians there. In the meanwhile, my own work in 
 Mauritius brought me into contact with many natives of 
 Madagascar, and I was led to admire especially the fer- 
 vent zeal which they manifested for the reading of the 
 Scriptures, and for the services of the house of God. 
 One of my last acts before leaving for England in 1860, 
 was to consecrate a chapel at the Morne, chiefly for the
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 269 
 
 use of Malagasy Christians ; and when in London in that 
 year I called at the office of the Bible Society, to convey 
 to the secretaries the earnest request of some of those 
 Christians for a full copy of the Scriptures ; as they had 
 only the New Testament. The reply was, that the plans 
 entertained for revising the version had led to the delay 
 in sending out more portions of the Old Testament. 
 Various accounts reached me from time to time of the 
 sufferings and doings of the Christians, especially one, 
 which was so interesting that I have inserted it in the 
 preceding chapter. 
 
 Under these circumstances, it was with real interest 
 that I heard in the August of 1861 that the way was open 
 for missionaries to Madagascar, by the death of the Queen 
 and the accession of her son, Prince Rakoto Radama. 
 On meeting the Rev. J. Le Bi*un in the street, and his 
 announcing to me his intention of going to the capital in 
 consequence of a letter written by the king to his father, 
 I said to him, and repeated the statement several times 
 to his brother, as well as afterwards to Mr. Ellis, that I 
 would certainly go myself, if anything like an opening 
 were presented. The Mission of Congratulation, which 
 went from Mauritius in September last year, was strictly 
 precluded from having any minister of religion in any 
 way connected with it, so that I could no^ go with them. 
 My own work also greatly needed me, as I was in the 
 midst of preparations for confirmation, and in other ways 
 hard-pressed, ha\dng recently returned from England, and 
 I put off going till some future time. ^luch interesting
 
 270 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and valuable information was given me by various mem- 
 bers of the Mission on their return ; and when Mr. Ellis 
 came to Mauritius on his way 1 had several conversa- 
 tions with him, in which we chiefly discussed the con- 
 dition of the Christians, and kindred subjects. I told 
 him, as he afterwards reminded me at Antananarivo, of 
 my intention to go if an opening presented itself, and 
 made what inquiries I could mto the prospect of such 
 openings being found in other parts besides the capital. 
 About the middle of June I was told that Mr. Caldwell 
 was going to the capital, to convey presents from the 
 Queen of England to the King, and I at once decided 
 on attempting to go with him, as I had travelled with 
 him before ; my simple object in visiting the capital 
 being to ascertain for myself how far it was really oc- 
 cupied by Protestant missionary agents; what further 
 openings there were, the nature of the operations required ; 
 and to get such a knowledge of the country and the 
 people as would fit me to counsel and direct those who 
 might afterwards be sent. I particularly wished to see 
 the King, to tell him my plans, and to obtain his 
 sanction. 
 
 On going to the Governor to lay the matter before 
 him, I was very thankful to find that his Excellency 
 quite entered iilto my views, that he would endeavour to 
 secure me a passage in the " Gorgon,^^ which was to take 
 a special mission as far as Tamatave, and that he would 
 ask me to present the Bible, which was sent with the 
 Queen's sign manual in it. This was a most agreeable
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 271 
 
 communication^ and I felt most thankful at the prospect 
 of discharging such a commission. 
 
 On communicating my intention of proceeding to 
 Madagascar to the clergy, and to different membei-s of 
 our congregations^ it was met with warm support, and 
 led, I am sure, to much fervent prayer. On the last 
 Sunday of my officiating in the Cathedral, I thought it 
 due to the congregation to give them my reasons for 
 leaving them, though, as I hoped, only for a season, in 
 the following terms, — 
 
 " Before I proceed to apply the subject which I have 
 chosen to your personal meditation, there is another on 
 which I desire to say a few words — my own intended 
 visit to Madagascar. I feel, my brethren, that you have 
 a risrht to ask the reason of mv absentins mvself for a 
 time from the performance of my duties amongst you, 
 and I also feel very sincerely and deeply my need of your 
 prayers that the journey may be blessed of God, to the 
 gloiy- of His name and the diffiision of His truth. My 
 object is to ascertain, by personal observation, what 
 openings there are for the missionary" action of the 
 Church of England, that in continuing the correspon- 
 dence, which has long been begun with our great Socie- 
 ties at home, I may be able to give the report of an 
 eye-witness, and so to urge with more weight the appeal 
 for help towards the great work of evangelization in 
 Madagascar. One end in vievr in seeking this personal 
 knowledge is to avoid anj-thing like interference with the 
 noble work of che London Missionary Society — a work
 
 272 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 which has stood the test of long years of fiery per- 
 secutioiij and has left results full of promise for the 
 future. In so wide, a field, however, as that large island, 
 with its several millions of inhabitants, there is ahundant 
 room for the independent operation of our Church ; and 
 while we are taught in our solemn services to pray so 
 often that it would please God to ^ make His way known 
 upon earth. His saving health among all nations,^ it is 
 only the part of plain consistency, when God in His pro- 
 vidence sets before us an open door, to endeavour to 
 profit by the opportunity, and to seek to make that way 
 known. The history of that island, especially during the 
 last twenty years, has furnished abundant illustration of 
 the statement of Scripture that ^ the dark places of the 
 earth are full of cruelty.^ Its present condition seems to 
 warrant the hope that the Sun of Righteousness is rising 
 on it, with healing in His wings. There is every ground 
 for expecting the sanction and encouragement of the pre- 
 sent Sovereign to be given to every eff'ort for difi*u3ing 
 civilization and education, and for preaching the Gospel 
 of truth and peace ; and it is indeed a most happy feature 
 in the messages and tokens of congratulation sent by our 
 gracious Queen, that a copy of the AVord of God is to be 
 presented in her name. 
 
 " My brethren, the spirit in which we should regard 
 this beginning of effort made by our Church, should be a 
 spirit of deep humility, realizing the tremendous difficul- 
 ties which there are in the way of spreading the Gospel 
 of Christ amongst a people who have so long been sitting
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 273 
 
 in darkness and the shadow of death — remembering the 
 utter insufficiency of all human means in themselves, and 
 at the same time keeping in view the iSighty power of God 
 our Saviour, who has promised to be with His servants 
 in the endeavour to obey His command, — ^Go ye and 
 teach all nations, baptizing them in the name of the 
 Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost ; teaching 
 them to observe all things whatsoever I have commanded 
 you ; and lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of 
 the world/ The spirit in which we should enter upon 
 such a work is that of Psalm cxv. — ^ Not unto us, Lord, 
 not unto us, but unto Thy name give the glory, for Thy 
 loving mercy and for Thy truth^s sake;^ and I would 
 repeat again what I have often said before, and each 
 time, if possible, with deeper conviction of the truth 
 of the statement, that the first and most efi'ectual help 
 which the members of the Church can give to its 
 Ministers, is the earnest remembrance of them in their 
 prayers for God^s guidance and protection — for His grace 
 and blessing. How remarkable is the applicability with 
 which words, written more than eighteen hundred years 
 ago, may continually be used in our day, — 'Finally, 
 brethren, pray for us, that the word of the Lord may 
 have free course and be glorified/ ^^ 
 
 I left Mauritius in H. M. ship "Gorgon,^^ on the 
 1.2th of July, accompanying Major-General Johnstone, 
 and Captain Anson, the Inspector- General of Police. On 
 arriving at Tamatave we found Mr. Caldwell and his 
 party still there, as well as the newly-appointed consul.
 
 274 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Mr. Pakcnham, and his wife ; and as a numerous body of 
 French officers had just started, with several hundred 
 Maromites or bearers, we were detained for some days 
 before we could set out. Rumours of the coronation 
 having been put off till late in September reached us, 
 and I more than once expressed my determination to 
 return in that case before the end of August, at which 
 time I understood the '^ Gorgon^' would be back from 
 Mauritius. 
 
 Tamatave, July \7th. — Though we have had offers of 
 large houses to ourselves, the General and I have pre- 
 ferred remaining on board as long as the Captain can 
 allow us to do so. Yesterday I stayed in the ship till 
 2 P.M., and then went on shore with the General and the 
 Mission to call on the Governor. The costumes, uniforms, 
 swords, pikes, muskets, bugles, and fifes, of the officers 
 and military, were very strange in some respects, but the 
 hearty kindness of our reception was quite unmistakeable. 
 Sarradie walked by the side of my palanquin, and was 
 asked afterwards by one of the chief people whether he 
 was my aide-de-camp, to which he replied *' Yes," and 
 was then told to speak to me about schools and teachers 
 in Malagasy and English. A beautiful letter from the 
 native Christians was brought to me this morning, ad- 
 dressed, ^' To the Eishop of Mauritius, the beloved brother 
 on board the ship." I hope to meet them to-day. The 
 GeneraPs speech in proposing the King's health yester- 
 day was a very feeling and appropriate one. It would be 
 likely to give an excellent impression about the good
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 275 
 
 wishes of the Queen and of the Governor of ^Mauritius 
 towards the King and people of Madagascar. I believe 
 that all this is thoroughly appreciated here. There is a 
 wonderful opening, great need, great readiness for 
 teachers_, and no obstructions, except such as are com- 
 mon to all efforts made for diffusing the knowledge of 
 the Gospel. 
 
 July \Sth. — Yesterday I went on shore, and amongst 
 other visits I went to see the native Christians, or rather 
 they came to see me at their catechist^s house, and I had 
 a very interesting time with them. One fine young man 
 had had a chain on him for five years, because of his pro- 
 fession of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. When I referred 
 to the persecutions which they had endui-ed, and the de- 
 struction of their books, one of them took out a hjTnn- 
 book from his pocket, the only book he had rescued 
 from the destruction; and showed by digging in the 
 sand how he had buried it in the earth. I told them of 
 the strong and wide-spread feelings of good-will which 
 prevail in England for them, and how I hoped that the 
 light which was beginning to shine would increase and 
 extend over all Madagascar; and dwelt on the parable of 
 the mustard-seed, and on each point fervent and striking 
 answers were made by them. I then told the catechist 
 to read the latter part of Rev. \\i., and stopped him when 
 he came to the part about the " lamb a fotsy,^^ the white 
 garments. WTien he had done, they were in a state of 
 tremulous and even tearful attention. They would not 
 hear of my going away without a present, so they made
 
 276 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 me accept three geese and several fowls; and when I 
 asked them what I could do for them, the one reply was, 
 '' Bible, Bible." 
 
 Sunday, July 20th.-^A most interesting day. The 
 heavy fall of rain prevented the residents on shore from 
 coming off to the service on board ship, and the same 
 cause made our having service on deck impracticable, so 
 that we had it down on the lower deck. This enabled 
 the sick to hear. My subject was Rom. xv. 29, " The 
 fulness of the blessing of the Gospel of Christ." My 
 faithful Sarradie was there, saying " Amen" at the end of 
 all the prayers, though he could not understand them fully, 
 but he knew their purport well. As soon afterwards as a 
 boat couid be got we started in the rain, and I found my 
 cloak most acceptable. A house was at very short notice 
 made ready, and we proceeded to the place of wor- 
 ship. The congregation numbered between twenty and 
 thirty, and as I found the majority understood French 
 better than English, I performed the service in the 
 former language, and addressed them on Psalm xxiii. 
 From this place I put my cloak over my robes and 
 went to the native Christians^ house of prayer. Very 
 interesting and touching was the sight. They sang 
 hymns, being led by the young man who had been in 
 chains for five years in the late Queen^s time. The 
 catechist (sent by Mr. Le Brun) prayed with them, 
 and at my request read part of John x. They expressed 
 a great desire that I should pray for them in the English 
 language, which I did ; and at the close of their service
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 277 
 
 I told him to explain to them the Benediction^ which I 
 then pronounced. General Johnstone, who is at the 
 head of the Government-Mission, and who takes a great 
 interest in the spiritual state of the people, was present 
 at the close, and enjoyed it greatly. I was very thankful 
 for such a Sunday, the fii'st in Madagascar. 
 
 Our journey up to the capital occupied seventeen 
 days — from July 2*2nd to August 8th. 
 
 Royal Serjeanfs House, Hivondro, July 22nd. — We 
 started to-day with a Marshal, six other militaiy officers, 
 a company of soldiers, carrying many of them a musket 
 on one shoulder and a spear on the other, and a band of 
 music. I found the palanquin-motion very tr^^ing at first, 
 and the shaking most unpleasant. There was in this 
 first journey much novelty and excitement. The running 
 and singing and responding of the bearers was at times 
 of a very lively character. At the first halt, by a brook 
 where the road was well shaded, I got out, and was 
 w^alking on, Avhen the soldier in charge of the bearers 
 carrying the treasure stopped me, signifying to me that 
 Captain Anson had committed it to my charge. As I had 
 been asked by Captain Anson to look after that small but 
 heavy box while he completed some of his arrangements, 
 and I had promised to do so, I was compelled to stop 
 till the whole party moved on again. Not veiy far from 
 Hivondro a halt was made, that our military friends might 
 come up with us, and escort us through Hivondro, a 
 densely-built village or small town, about eight miles from 
 Tamatave. The dust, and the crowds, and the soldiers
 
 278 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and the music, made a scene not soon to be forgotten. 
 We passed through in great style and marched up a grassy 
 hill to the Royal flagstaff, sign of the Lapa, or King^s 
 house ; where a salute was given in the usual way by 
 presenting arms. This was done several times, and I was 
 told that one of the salutes was for me. Sarradie dis- 
 covered in the Marshal an uncle of his. I am now 
 writing with my desk on my knee, while General John- 
 stone is arranging his palanquin for a bed in one corner 
 of the room, and a Malagasy woman, daughter of the 
 Serjeant, is seated on the ground, watching us in the 
 deepest silence. My cot-palanquin is on the opposite 
 side. Sarradie is most useful, both to work and to in- 
 terpret. He is in one door-way ; two Malagasy with their 
 lambas in the other, through which the declining sun is 
 streaming. Looking to the west is a beautiful lake, 
 with wooded and gently-rising grounds and mountains 
 beyond; while from the east the loud roar of the surf 
 tells how near we are to the sea. The scenery and the 
 people supply subjects of the most thrilling interest to the 
 traveller, but I am thankful to feel every other interest 
 absorbed in that of prayerful desire for their salvation. 
 Sarradie^s company is very refreshing. It seemed a 
 strange realization of pictures of the imagination to see 
 him just now bringing in a splendid specimen of the 
 angrsecum superb um. 
 
 July 2^rd. [Morning.) — Last night the sunset from 
 this little eminence diffused a rich rose-coloured appear- 
 ance over successive ridges of wooded hills, coming down
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 279 
 
 in parallel lines, but with tlie most graceful curves and 
 slopes, from the high mountains about sixty miles dis- 
 tant ; and the broad lake-like river between us and them 
 was literally scarlet. We all said we had never seen any- 
 thing like it before. This morning the mountains are 
 cloud-capped ; the intervening ridges have various shades ; 
 one hill is quite bright, having shades of different depth 
 behind and before it. The river is animated with many 
 long canoes, herds of cattle are passing between me and 
 the bank, and natives in all kinds of costumes are running 
 about on the land. It is a very beautiful sight, indeed. Most 
 sad, however, is the degradation in which so many of the 
 people — the large mass of them, with few exceptions — are 
 plunged. The relief is great when we find any Christians, 
 as was the case early this morning, when two of the 
 bearers were brought to me as Christians, wishing to greet 
 me. One of them could read fluently in the New Testa- 
 ment, which I have brought with me, and which has been 
 very useful. Several requests have been made for it, which 
 I have not been able to comply with. I do trust that this 
 journey of mine will be made subservient to the great end 
 of making God^s way known in this land, and His saving 
 health among its people. The beauty of the sceneiy is 
 quite indescribable. 
 
 There w^ere long delays about the pirogues, which had 
 to cross over the lake once and then return for us ; and we 
 were compelled to go back and rest in the house. There 
 were very beautiful views across the broad lake-like river, 
 and I observed for the first time the wicker palisading
 
 280 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 and traps for fish, extending quite across the narrower 
 part beyond the landing-place. I started to walk to Am- 
 bakatalamanca, but did not walk the whole way. On reach- 
 ing that place there was much difficulty about going on. 
 My bearers behaved well. We went on to Trano Maro, 
 which we reached easily at about four o'clock — a far bet- 
 ter place than the former, and I had another good walk 
 on the way. The glee of the bearers was excessive as 
 they got in, far before any one else. One little fellow 
 especially, with such wonderful powers of leaping, and, 
 at the same time, making his whole body quiver with 
 strong contortions, as I never saw in any one else, led the 
 way in singing, while the others responded in choru^; and 
 then repeatedly threw his spear into the air, catching it 
 again ere it could touch the ground; and gave every 
 indication of the greatest delight at the termination of our 
 day's journey from Hivondro. 
 
 Andrakoditra,July 24/A. — Much to my disappointment 
 we have been compelled to wait here, after arriving at 
 about two o'clock. AVe left Trano Maro this morning, 
 and I have had a good deal of w^alking, partly with Dr. 
 Mellor, who went up the Zambesi with Dr. Livingstone, 
 and after going to the Cape for his health, was on his 
 way back to the East-African coast in the ^^ Gorgon," 
 when this expedition was sent, and he was joined to it by 
 request as our medical man. 
 
 The country we have passed through to-day has been 
 most lovely — open glades, fine trees, dense shrubs, 
 angrsecums in abundance. The carolling of the birds, the
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 281 
 
 fresh breeze, and the brightness of the air, all combined to 
 make the walk most pleasant. I got into the palanquin 
 when we struck down to the beach, after walking a little 
 way. V^e arrived at Amparaua about ten, and stayed 
 there some time, and then came on to Andrakoditra 
 between one and two. Much to my disappointment, we 
 have to halt here. I am writing this with my back to the 
 sun, from which I am shaded by a tree, as I sit on a sand- 
 bank facing the sea, with a Ime of surf as far as the eye 
 can reach on each side. 
 
 General Johnstone is an earnest Christian man, whose 
 chief interest is in the spiritual good of the people. Some 
 Christian bearers are with us, and I either read, or get 
 our interpreter to read with them, and they join us at 
 prayers, when we can manage to have united prayers. 
 The people generally are exceedingly kind and civil, but 
 their social state is very degraded indeed. I am so thank- 
 ful about Sarradie. His gratitude to Mrs. R. for some of 
 her preparations for his comfort is most warmly expressed, 
 and his heart's desire and prayer to God for his brethren 
 after the flesh is evidently one of the deepest and most 
 abiding emotions of his soul. This morning, long before 
 daylight, in a short waking interval, I had a little chat 
 with him in the dark, and he said shortly afterwards, 
 ^^ Quel bel pays ! seulement si gagne la benediction." 
 I feel very thankful for such a man. 
 
 It seems to me now, as if I should be still more plain 
 and urgent with long-settled congregations, to tr}^ and 
 draw professing Christians to more decided and self-
 
 283 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 denying ways of seeking the glory of God and tlie good 
 of man. 
 
 Ivavongay, July 2^t1u — This morning I had a deli- 
 cious bathe in the breakers, and then a refreshing walk 
 on the beach before and after sunrise. I talked wdth 
 Sarradie about the rising of the Sun of Righteousness on 
 Madagascar. He compared Messrs. Freeman and Jones, 
 and others, to the light of dawn. God grant that it may 
 indeed prove so ! I walked through a most lovely countr5\ 
 There were lakes with white shores, and woods beyond on 
 the right, and woods also on the left, a good part of the 
 way. Then we came to the small lake below Ivavongay, 
 which is a village built on a rising ground ; and I felt 
 a great desire to swim across that lake, but refrained, 
 chiefly from not wishing to infringe my rule of not 
 bathing more than once each day. Afterwards, w^hen the 
 interpreter came up, we found that he and his party had 
 seen a crocodile there, and I felt thankful and warned. 
 Read the Collect and Epistle and Gospel for St. Jameses 
 day, and felt them to be most appropriate. May my 
 experience answer to that which is prayed for there ! 
 
 I had a long conversation with Mr. M'Gee, whom we 
 met here, on the plants and places which he had seen, and 
 was much interested in his descriptions ; and then went 
 along the lake to look for alligators, and saw a herd of oxen 
 cross the stream. It was a very animated spectacle. Their 
 immense horns out of the water looked like a moving- 
 shrubbery. In the evening we had a large assemblage. 
 Adrianissa and Sarradie read and prayed in Malagasy,
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 283 
 
 using John xiv., and I ended with the Lord^s Prayer and 
 the closing verses of 2 Cor. xiii. — " The grace/^ &c. 
 
 Manombonohitra, July 2Sth. — Our course to-day was 
 nearly at a right angle to that of the previous days, 
 and we took to the water of the Iheroqua in sixty-four 
 pirogues. My willing bearers rowed me in first, and we 
 came to Maroomby at once, instead of landing at Am- 
 phibohibazo, and then proceeding by land. The wide 
 expanse at first and narrow stream afterwards, the 
 villages on the hills, the dells, the sugar-canes in 
 the fields, the rude mills for crushing the canes, the 
 primitive wicker-nets for catching the fish, with the 
 flovrers, and the birds, and the herds of oxen, and the 
 natives on the shore, or in the deeply-laden pirogues, 
 going do^Ti with merchandise, made every step full of 
 interesting novelty. The landing at Maroomby, which 
 we approached by a canal flowing through rice- grounds, 
 was very bad, but the village was not an unfavourable 
 specimen of the generality of Malagasy villages. At the 
 end of it an inclosure, which bore marks of former cul- 
 tivation, had several kinds of garden-trees in it, and very 
 fine cofi"ee-trees growing luxm-iantly. It contained a large 
 house, which we found belonged to a native chief. The 
 traveller's tree was in abundance. Much commerce, or 
 rather traffic, seemed to be going on. Three native 
 officers met us, who were sent to conduct the Missionaries. 
 I saw much to-day that was very repulsive among the 
 heathen people, and a great contrast in the native 
 Christians, whose kind attention to Sarradie was veiy
 
 284 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 pleasing. We had prayers this evening, I repeating the 
 Blessing in Malagasy. I read a good deal in Mr. Ellis's 
 hook to-day with much interest, and was pleased to see 
 how much more we had been able to do in our travelling 
 time on this day than he had done. 
 
 Ambatoerana, July 29th. — I was most thankful for 
 sleep last night, as I had a severe cold and headache ; 
 and I had a delightful dip this morning, after con- 
 sulting the doctor, — a real plunge into a running stream, 
 a native Christian placing his lamba on the sand. We 
 set off earlier. The weather was very fine ; the country 
 very beautiful indeed ; hills and valleys, and dales and 
 rivers, following each other in continuous succession. The 
 bamboos and ravinalas were mixed together in very 
 striking combination, and with them, at times, trees with 
 small dark-green leaves, making the whole effect very 
 beautiful ; and an abundance of tree-ferns, showing that 
 we are in a cooler region. At Ranomafana, Mr. Oliver and 
 I went down to the river, and felt the heat of the under- 
 ground springs very sensibly, even unbearably, in some 
 parts. The men came in for prayers in the evening. 
 Being overtaken by sleep before they began, I was roused 
 by hearing them singing. 
 
 Ampassimhe, July 31st. — I felt exceedingly unwell 
 at one part of the night — with shivering, heaving of the 
 chest, and piercing pains in the feet. The affection was very 
 alarming at the time. The apprehension of not fulfilling 
 the mission on which I had come, mingled with many 
 thoughts about the beloved ones I had left behind ;
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 285 
 
 but still I felt I had done quite right in coming. 
 May it please our Heavenly Father to bring me safely 
 through^ in answer to the many prayers offered on that 
 behalf ! 
 
 Marovivongyj July ^\st. — We passed the ^' Weeping- 
 place of the Hovas^^ this morning, and the enchanting 
 loveliness of the view to the south-east, commanding the 
 sea, and looking to ev^ery other point of the compass, with 
 hills, and woods, and valleys, was quite indescribable. The 
 road is grotesquely difficult. I was so tired with my walks 
 in the sun on previous days, that I set out determined to 
 remain in the palanquin ; but it was simply impossible for 
 me to do so, and I have walked a good deal, bat in the 
 wood, which makes a great difference. We are now in, 
 or near to, the worst part, it is said, for the fever. But 
 T feel thankful that I have come. We have, so to speak, 
 held up the standard of the Cross in every place. Last 
 night we had fourteen native Christians at our evening 
 prayers ; three of them officers just come down from the 
 capital, and one of them, quite a young man, made some 
 beautiful remarks on John xv., which I asked him to read. 
 Their singing is delightful. The need of Missionary effort, 
 comprehensive, vigorous, and persevering, is most painfully 
 impressed on me, chiefly from the very sad and degraded 
 condition of the women. It would be difficult to conceive 
 anything more vile and debased than their condition as a 
 rule j and this, of course, re-acts on all the relationships 
 of the whole community. Their only tie seems to be 
 their children^ up to nine or ten years of age.
 
 286 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Alamanazoatra, Aug. \st. — The morning of this day 
 found us at Beforana, of which we had heard very bad 
 accounts from all quarters. Its special unhealthiness is 
 strongly dwelt on in Col.. Middleton's report. '\^Tien we 
 were there the evening was fine and dry, and though 
 the morning was cloudy there was no mist; and having 
 had a delicious bathe in* the river which runs by it in the 
 evening, I left the place rather impressed in its favour. 
 The early part of the journey was very pleasant, but 
 before eight o^clock in the evening I had gone through 
 more strain, pressure, and effort, than in any previous 
 day^s journey in my life, I believe. The rain fell at times 
 heavily, and increasingly so towards evening, and ren- 
 dered the steep clayey hills slippery in the hard parts, 
 and sloughy in the soft ones, to an extent which it is 
 difficult to recollect even after having gone through it. 
 Many steep and long ascents, succeeded by descents as 
 steep and as long, seemed to be varied only by miry 
 places, into which the men sank up to their thighs; and 
 by rivers, of which they had to descend one bank and as- 
 cend the other in the most extraordinary manner; and by 
 trees, which had fallen across the path in every strange 
 position that could be conceived. Up one of the worst 
 hills I came upon the Queen^s picture carried by twenty- 
 five men. It reminded me of the drawings in Layard^s 
 Nineveh. The deal case was covered over with various 
 integuments of fibrous leaves, many of which were torn 
 and blowing in the wind. The outrunners among the 
 bearers had two long powerful lianes, or native creepers,
 
 ^
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 287 
 
 attached to the chest, so as to check or pull forward as 
 occasion required ; and at some moments of pressure the 
 whole twenty-five, commander, chief helpers, and all, 
 pressed round it with a close comTilsive movement, which 
 seemed necessary to keep the whole from falling to the 
 ground. Yet on they went, step by step, or rather half- 
 step by half-step, with this immense case, swaying, ba- 
 lancing, and leaning first to one side and then to another, 
 but in no instance being permitted to give way. Progress 
 was made, though the old chieftain told me he expected 
 to sleep three nights in the wood. Even for my cot-v 
 palanquin, the efibrts of eight men seemed at one time all 
 needed to keep it from going wi'ong, and then to act on 
 one corner of it in such a way as to draw it on right. 
 After I had walked to the extent of my strength, and my 
 palanquin and its efi'ects were wet much beyond what was 
 promising for the night, I determined to remain in, but at 
 least four times afterwards I wished to get out, and gave 
 orders for the bearers to stop ; but they would not let me 
 get out, and it was well they did not. The General, who 
 had been compelled to abandon his large palanquin, hailed 
 me as he passed on, accompanied by Sarradie on one side 
 and a bearer on the other. I was delighted to hear his 
 voice, but very sorry when I found he was out of his 
 palanquin, and felt intense anxiety about him, which was 
 dispelled at last by Sarradie^s welcome announcement 
 that he had arrived safely and was well lodged. The last 
 hour or so was very exciting. A man close a-head, giving 
 warning of every hole and tree, and piece of water, was
 
 288 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 incessantly crying out one thing or another. In the dense 
 forest the gray trees every now and then looked just like 
 the group of cazes, and the bright fire-flies again and 
 again made it seem that the lights of human abodes were 
 near. The screamings of the lemurs and the noises of 
 other animals added to the strange excitement of the 
 scene, and I felt truly thankful when the work w^as over, 
 and I met Sarradie, whose joy was intense, as he took me 
 by the hand at the entrance of Alamanazoatra, into which 
 place the bearers bounded with the merriest shouts 
 
 > of joy- 
 
 The cooks had arrived, but all we could get for them 
 to operate on was a fowl and some rice — no salt or other 
 table appliances ; so that we had to manage the fowl, and 
 the rice it was boiled in, without any accessories. One fork 
 and a leg-bone of a fowl were our only helps, and we both 
 laughed heartily at the contrast between our dinner with 
 the 5th Fusiliers a few weeks ago, and our meal in the 
 wood-cutter's hut at Alamanazoatra. AYe were much 
 relieved when we found that our companions had decided 
 on not coming on beyond the midw^ay station ; and w^ere on 
 the whole very comfortable for the night, through God^s 
 preserving care over us. 
 
 Maromanga, Aug. Zrd. — The General and I reached 
 this place comfortably last night, and are having our Sab- 
 bath's rest in every sense of the word. We have had the 
 Litany together, then a Malagasy assemblage. I dictated 
 to Sarradie the topics of an address to them, following the 
 line of thought of the beautiful Collect for this day, and
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 289 
 
 I ended witli the Lord's Prayer in Malagasy, and the 
 Blessing, 2 Cor. xiii. 14, — " The grace of our Lord Jesus 
 Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the 
 Holy Ghost, be with you all. Amen," — in the same lan- 
 guage. We hope to have another service presently. I have 
 been reading the beautiful essay in Aids to Faith on the 
 death of Christ. How intensely I hope that the way will 
 be made clear for us to do something in Madagascar ! 
 What England's Sabbaths and privileges appear to me 
 when viewed at this distance, from the midst of the scenes 
 of sorrow and degradation which w^e w^itness here, I cannot 
 describe. 
 
 AngavOj August 6th. — From Tamatave to Andevo- 
 ranto, where we turned inland, the beach is one mass of 
 rolling surf; above that is sandy but rich soil, running 
 in embankments parallel with the sea, and covered with 
 a great variety of trees, plants, and flowers, amongst 
 which many beautiful kinds of birds are seen and heard. 
 This slip of land, about a mile on the average in width, 
 has again parallel with it a magnificent chain of lakes, 
 which go inland for many miles, and in some of which 
 are large and fruitful islands. Looking at these lakes 
 with one's back to the sea, the timber-covered hills of 
 the centre of the island are very clearly seen, and behind 
 them the blue mountains which form the water-shed of 
 the island. From these mountains innumerable streams 
 run down into the rivers, some of which are very wide 
 and beautiful. When w^e turned inland, north and by 
 west, we got into pirogues, which took us at least twelve 
 
 u
 
 290 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 miles on a broad and beautiful stream, the Iheroqua; 
 since which time we have crossed some of its tributaries 
 up to a certain point every day. Within the last five 
 days we have crossed the Mango urou, which even up 
 here is a fine rapid river, and the Valalla and others, 
 which have given us a very great idea of what the lower 
 parts towards the coast must be. We have crossed 
 several isothermal lines already. Before the great forest 
 which we came through on Friday, with very fine timber- 
 trees, we had a zone of bamboos and ravinalos, or tra- 
 veller's trees, which afi"orded many views of exceeding 
 richness and beauty. As we get higher, and the country 
 flattens, there are more rice-grounds and more herds of 
 cattle, but all up the road from Tamatave to where we 
 are now, an incessant stream of poultry-carriers shows 
 how adapted Madagascar is for that kind of produce. 
 Dr. jMellor is in raptures with the island; birds and 
 plants have been his chief care, and he has had incessant 
 work. Mineral productions are expected to be found in 
 abundance. The gums, such as copal, &c., seem to be 
 very plentiful. The people are in a very degraded state 
 in many respects. The dominant race evidently possess 
 many fine qualities which fit them for command ; but vice 
 and licentiousness have eaten into the veiy heart of the 
 people, and the amount of disease which one meets with 
 is but an indication, I fear, of their filthy and immoral 
 habits. Slavery prevails very widely ; not, it seems, in any 
 cruel or burdensome form ; but still very thoroughly, as 
 far as the rights of property are concerned. But the
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 291 
 
 grand subject of interest is the leavening of so many- 
 thousands with Christian teachings and the apparent 
 aptitude of the people to receive and to diffuse that 
 light. I feel much more hopeful now than I ever did 
 before, of the good results from our Malagasy work in 
 Mauritius. 
 
 The houses of the people are chiefly built, in the 
 lower parts of the country, with the traveller's tree. 
 The effect of such thin walls is that, when lying awake at 
 night, the least noise in the village is heard; and when 
 the head man wishes to give a message in the name of 
 Radama, he shouts at the full pitch of his voice from 
 some central place, and is heard in the houses distinctly. 
 Last night was very trying and uncomfortable, from the 
 lowness of the rooms, which are hung with tobacco-leaves 
 in various stages of drjdng, and from the unceasing move- 
 ments of the rats. I slept with a stick in my hand, with 
 which I struck the roof at inteiTals and dispersed the 
 intruders, who seemed to flee in all directions. I was very 
 thankful to have secured any rest all. A bathe in the 
 morning was impracticable, but I had a most refreshing 
 one afterwards in the bed of a mountain torrent. 
 
 Amhatomanga, August Q>th. — We slept at Ambodi- 
 nangavo, where the thermometer varied from 81° to 
 47° in the twenty-four hours. I had a very trying 
 night, from congestion of the bronchial organs, my 
 cough being hard and strong. 1 spoke to the doctor 
 this morning, who thought some of the symptoms 
 rather severe. I was sorry to find that the General
 
 292 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 had bad a touch of fever in the night. I revived a 
 good deal as we went up the winding mountain-side, 
 and when I got out of my palanquin the bright sun 
 had a most exhilarating effect. One view of to-day 
 excelled anything of the kind I had ever seen. From 
 the top of Angavo we looked back upon a very clear 
 atmosphere down to its base, and to the plain imme- 
 diately below ; but beyond that, as far as the eye could 
 reach, all the hills and woods we had crossed were 
 covered with a white fleecy mist, or rather snow-like 
 clouds, to which the sun^s rays gave the most pure and 
 beautiful brightness — it was a soft, white, shining light. 
 A native Christian seeing me admire this, told me that 
 the idea in the words, ^' Though your sins be as scarlet, 
 yet shall they be white as snow,'' was borrowed in their 
 translation from that veiy appearance, which, therefore, 
 must be familiar to them. It is a very beautiful adapt- 
 ation. We are evidently now in the country of a domi- 
 nant, warlike, and industrious race. 
 
 Aug. 7th, — This has been a most interesting day. 
 Early in the morning we paid a visit to the tomb on the 
 summit of the high rock, where the remains of the late 
 husband of our hostess are laid. I left Capt. Anson, 
 Dr. Mellor, and Mr. Oliver there, and almost imme- 
 diately after I had left them they saw the reflection of 
 themselves in the mist in gigantic proportions, answering 
 to movements of the arms, &c. — another spectre of the^ 
 Brocken. Starting at eight in the morning, I walked 
 for two hours and a quarter. From one spot I counted
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 293 
 
 fourteen villages. All the valleys are inundated arti- 
 ficially, so as to make rice-grounds. There are very fine 
 herds of cattle. At nine o'clock we came on the most 
 imposing view of the Silver Palace at Antananarivo. It 
 must be a wonderful structure^ and the perfection of a 
 royal palace as to emblematic situation, for it crowns the 
 summit of the highest land to which we can get from the 
 sea. In the bright clear sunlight it looked so clear and 
 light, as well as lofty, that it was almost as if it were 
 hovering on wings over all the surrounding dwellings, 
 which are far beneath it. Messenger after messenger 
 met us, and at last we had to halt, and to be received 
 by a band of soldiers ; there were thirteen officers in 
 gorgeous but well-made uniforms, of every shade of blue, 
 and every style of embroidery. The commander had 
 been a good deal at Southport, in his early days, and 
 spoke much of Mr. Greatbach. Their splendid cocked 
 hats, and waving plumes of red and blue, gave them a 
 most picturesque appearance. The band wore red tunics, 
 and the common soldiers were dressed in white ; nothing 
 could be more cordial than the greeting they gave us ; 
 and it sounded very touching to me to hear them play 
 " God Save the Queen " mth so much spirit, on the side 
 of the hill where we met them. They escorted us several 
 miles, and we were stopped once by an officer of high 
 rank, who came as an extra-messenger from Radama, to 
 express his very great satisfaction at our arrival. They 
 brought us to this village, Ambrasoeiro, where we are 
 to pass the night in sight of Antananarivo. It was very
 
 294 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 toucliing to hear these young officers asking for ''the 
 Book of Jesus Christ." I hear that Mr. Ellis has plenty 
 to do^ and attends on the King every day to teach him 
 English. I have been most mercifully cared for in this 
 journey ; provision for my wants of various kinds, such 
 as a proper introduction to the King, a companion like 
 the General, a faithful servant like Sarradie, a band of 
 Christians with us in all our movements, and an excel- 
 lent supply of all necessary food and accommodation, 
 are matters for which I feel I ought to be very thankful. 
 The severe trial to my chest in coming up makes it ap- 
 pear as if the work of regularly visiting Antananarivo 
 was not to be mine ; but much practical good may result, 
 with God^s blessing, from this journey, of research and 
 inquiry. T dare say I have mentioned it before, but it 
 is a constant feeling with me that the urgency of the 
 wants, about which I am come, quite makes even all the 
 beautiful and magnificent sceneiy tame in comparison. 
 I can now well understand why St. Paul himself said so 
 little about the scenery of his journeys ; he had the 
 care of the first implanting of the Gospel among those 
 people, and such labours give birth to feelings of the 
 most solemn character. I do not mean to say that I have 
 such a work, or that I am the first in planting the Gospel 
 here; but the aspect of the whole country, en masse, 
 is that of a nation sitting in darkness and in the shadow 
 of death ; and such an aspect has most engrossing thoughts 
 and feelings connected with it. 
 
 Antananarivo, Sunday, Aug. 10th. — This has been a
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 295 
 
 very solemn day. I passed a night of much disquiet and 
 pain, and had to send for the doctor early this morning, 
 and was not able to go with Mr. Ellis, as I had arranged, 
 to the Christian Assembly. Their reception of me is 
 deeply touching. To-night I had a man with me, accom- 
 panied by his sons, fine young men, and younger children, 
 w^ho had a Bible which he had kept eighteen years in the 
 midst of tremendous persecution. The texts which he 
 had found and fed upon were most remarkable, as mat- 
 ters have turned out: Jer. xlvi. 27, — "Fear not thou, 
 
 my servant Jacob, and be not dismayed, Israel ; for, 
 behold, I will save thee from afar ofi", and thy seed from 
 the land of their captivity ; and Jacob shall return, and 
 be in rest and at ease, and none shall make him afraid : '' 
 Jer. xlii. 11, 12, — " Be not afraid of the king of Babylon, 
 of whom ye are afraid ; be not afraid of him, saith the 
 Lord, for I am with you to save you, and to deliver you 
 from his hand ; and I will show mercies unto you, that 
 he may have mercy upon you, and cause you to return to 
 your own land;^^ Isa. xhx. 15, — "Can a woman forget 
 her sucking child, that she should not have compassion 
 on the son of her womb ? yea, they may forget, yet will 
 
 1 not forget thee.^^ And others of a like character. 
 At eleven o'clock I was able to have service here, and 
 all the English in Antananarivo, with one exception, were 
 present. 1 had hoped to go to some Malagasy service 
 this afternoon, but it was advisable for me not to move. 
 
 August nth. — We have just returned from a most 
 interesting ceremony. Between twelve and one we were
 
 296 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sent for to the Palace^ to which we were conducted by 
 several officers and a band of soldiers. General Johnstone 
 had to present the Queen's letter, and to introduce the 
 other members of the embassy, which he did in a very 
 earnest and feeling manner, dwelling particularly on the 
 affectionate interest felt by the Queen and people of Eng- 
 land in the welfare of the rulers and people of Mada- 
 gascar ; on the satisfaction with which the King's policy 
 was regarded in England; and on the hopes of future 
 progress and advancement which that policy tended to 
 encourage. He dwelt_, also, on the personal pleasure 
 which it afforded him to be commissioned to express 
 these sentiments ; and ended with placing in the King's 
 hands the letter, with her Majesty's sign manual appended 
 to it, which was then read to the King, his Majesty 
 looking over it, while Ra Hanirika, the secretary, first 
 read the English, and then gave a translation. The first 
 reply the King made, was to step forward and ask very 
 earnestly about the health of Queen Victoria, whether she 
 was well when the General heard of her, &c. ; to which 
 the reply was made that the last accounts were good, 
 and that our earnest hope and prayer was that she was 
 in the enjoyment of good health. 
 
 The General then introduced me, and as the Bible 
 sent by the Queen was ready for presentation, it had been 
 brought up in a palanquin by Sarradie and another 
 native Christian, folded in a rich railway wrapper, over 
 which were placed two handkerchiefs, one the Union 
 Jack, and the other the Royal Standard. I then ad-
 
 
 rJ^^ 
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 297 
 
 dressed his Majesty in the following words, which 
 were interpreted to him paragraph by paragraph, by Ra 
 Hanirika, — 
 
 " Sire_, it is my pleasing duty to present to your 
 Majesty, in the name of my gracious sovereign Queen 
 Victoria, a copy of the best of all books, the holy "Word 
 of God. I trust that your Majesty will receive it as a 
 sign of the heartfelt interest with which the Queen of 
 England and her people desire to help, as far as they 
 can, in promoting the welfare of the rulers and people 
 of Madagascar. The Bible has been, to the Royal 
 Family of England, the basis of many years of such 
 public and domestic happiness as few princes have ever 
 enjoyed. The Bible has been the solace and stay of our 
 beloved Queen in that deep sorrow which befel her, 
 when her Royal Consort was suddenly taken away by 
 death. It is therefore a treasure, of which she appre- 
 ciates the value, a source of light and strength of which 
 she knows the depth and purity. May it prove to your 
 Majesty, under the teaching of that Holy Spirit by 
 whom it was indited, a fountain of wisdom, for guidance 
 in the discharge of your high and important duties ; a 
 means of advancing in true and solid progi'ess; and a 
 channel by which the love of God in Christ Jesus may 
 be more and more fully conveyed to your soul. It is 
 a book full of encouragement, as your Majesty already 
 knows, to all who desire to glorify God by doing good 
 to man; a book which shows how the light of God 
 Almighty^s countenance and favour shines on every
 
 298 MAURITIUS AXD MADAGASCAR. 
 
 effort to teach and train the young in the way in which 
 they should go, to alleviate the sorrows of the needy, to 
 relieve the oppressed of their burdens, to maintain the 
 cause of the helpless, to distribute equal justice to all 
 classes in the state. And I cannot more fully express the 
 earnest and affectionate solicitude which I trust I may 
 be permitted to say I feel for your Majesties, and for all 
 ranks and degrees of men in the large and beautiful 
 island over which you are called to rule, than by offering 
 the fervent prayer that the light of this sacred book may 
 shine brightly in all the homes of Madagascar, from the 
 King^s palace to the peasant^s cottage, and that under 
 that heavenly influence, peace and happiness, truth and 
 justice, religion and piety, may be established amongst 
 you for all generations.^' 
 
 The King seemed to enter with much feeling into 
 some parts of the above, and shook my hand warmly 
 at the close. Captain Anson was then presented, and 
 informed the King that he was commissioned to offer 
 to his Majesty several presents from the Queen, in token 
 of the good will felt towards himself and his people, but 
 as they were not all arrived, he hoped to have some future 
 occasion of giving them. 
 
 Lieutenant Oliver, R.A., and Dr. Mellor, were after- 
 wards presented, and then the King and Queen, who had 
 remained standing up to this time, sat down, and the 
 party retired to their seats, which were rather too far 
 removed for general conversation. General Johnstone 
 was placed on the right, then the chief secretaiy, Ra
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 299 
 
 Hanirika, then myself, ]\Ir. Ellis, Captain Anson, Dr. 
 Mellor, and Mr. Oliver. Behind their Majesties was a 
 group of officers and attendants at the palace ; and when 
 any of these young men moved away, they observed the 
 strictest care in not turning their backs on the King 
 and Queen. A few spearmen against the wall behind the 
 King, recalled to the mind what Madagascar was, not 
 very long ago. Opposite us, on the left hand of the King 
 and Queen, was a long row of ladies, young and old, in 
 great variety and gorgeousness of costume. Behind us 
 were several of the officers of the palace, and towards the 
 other end of the room, Mr. Caldwell, Mr. A. TTiehe, Mr. 
 Castray of the Commissariat, and Messrs. AYadling and 
 Wilmot of the 5th Fusiliers. . I was specially interested 
 in two persons whom Mr. Ellis pointed out to me — one, 
 the son of the late prime minister, himself a good man, 
 but whose father was one of the chief instigators of all the 
 e\dl deeds of the late Queen. Another, the son of Ram- 
 boasolama, whose death is attributed to his disappointment 
 in his schemes for seizing on the crown. The son is 
 a most promising youth, and has been adopted by the 
 Queen. After the formal presentation was over the Gene- 
 ral went up to the King, and stated that the kind reception 
 we had met with on our appearing there exhibited a satis- 
 factory proof of the continued friendship towards the 
 Queen of England, entertained by himself and his country. 
 He instanced the recent appointment of a consul, as an 
 event likely to tend to the mutual advantage of both 
 countries; and on the King making some observations
 
 300 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 with respect to the state of things in Europe, the General 
 said that two ideas seemed especially to occupy the minds 
 of men in Europe, — Free Trade and Nationalities. That 
 he trusted the time was not far distant when the principles 
 of free trade maintained by him would result in great 
 advantages to his people; that Madagascar was larger 
 than England, and, under the well-directed skill and 
 energy of its inhabitants, might rise to the same degree of 
 wealth and importance ; that the feeling seemed to be 
 extending and increasing in strength, that nationalities 
 should be respected, and that every people should possess its 
 own country, and not be in subjection to stronger powers; 
 and at the close the General said, that he could not with- 
 draw without expressing to his Majesty, the gratification 
 we had all felt, in passing through his territories, at the 
 uniform kindness we had met with. 
 
 Captain Anson went up to the Queen, and told her 
 that he had a special present intended for herself from 
 Queen Victoria. This seemed to gratify her Majesty very 
 much. Captain Anson mentioned afterwards the fact, 
 that the consuls of several nations in Mauritius were 
 anxious to come to Antananarivo, and that he had advised 
 those who came to him to wait till they were fully 
 accredited for that purpose by their own courts. He 
 then expressed his great satisfaction at the manner in 
 which the soldiers had behaved, as well as the bearers, and 
 all the inhabitants with whom we had had to do. 
 
 During one of the vacant intervals, I went up to the 
 King and told him of the great interest which was felt in
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 301 
 
 the International Exhibition — of the wonderful effect 
 produced on the mind by seeing in one building the pro- 
 ductions of so many countries, and of meeting the inhabi- 
 tants of so many lands. I said, that Madagascar con- 
 tained many things which deserved to be placed in such a 
 building, and alluded specially to beautiful vases of gold 
 and silver, the work of native skill, which were on a stand 
 in front of ns. I also spoke of the pleasure it was to see 
 the labouring people from the most distant parts of Eng- 
 land coming in crowds to see such a sight, which they 
 could do so quickly and cheaply by means of the rail- 
 ways. He seemed very much interested as this was in- 
 terpreted to him; and after a time he made a move 
 towards the place where I was sitting, which I anticipated 
 by going up to him, and I found that he wished to talk 
 again about the Exhibition, and about the possibility of 
 sending some of those articles even now. His chief 
 question, however, was as to the renewal of such an 
 opportunity — whether it would be again in a short time, 
 or not. A'^Tien I mentioned the facilities of travelling in 
 England, and hinted at the need of good roads, and other 
 means of intercommunication between the different parts 
 of the island, the Chief Secretary asked me if I knew that 
 they had already established a Post Office. I took occa- 
 sion to tell his Majesty, how glad I should be to give him 
 any help in the way of schools and teachers that he might 
 need. I mentioned the great interest with which I had 
 heard of the school in progress of erection, and told him 
 that I had once been principal of a training-school for
 
 302 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 masters, and therefore might be useful to him, and that 
 it would give me much pleasure to be so. I expressed the 
 great pleasure I felt in finding Mr. Ellis looking so well ; 
 and as I had not yet specially addressed the Queen, I said 
 to her that I was sure Queen Victoria would be much 
 pleased to hear how we had been received; that she 
 read the accounts of those matters; and that her kind 
 feeling to the people of Madagascar was such, that it 
 would give her much satisfaction to hear of their good- 
 will and friendship, and kind inquiries for her. This 
 seemed to give great pleasure, for the Queen at once 
 seized my hand and pressed it warmly, and the King said 
 he was glad to hear such things. I then asked him for a 
 private interview the next day, which he said he would 
 give me at twelve o^ clock, and I told him how anxious I 
 was to see the building he had begun for school purposes. 
 The health of the King and Queen was then drunk, then 
 that of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, then the union of 
 the two nations, and we retired. 
 
 August 12th. — At twelve o'clock an officer came, who 
 conducted Captain Anson and myself to a house near the 
 palace, where the King and Queen, with Ra Hanirika, were 
 waiting, with several officers, two young ladies, and three 
 little boys. I at once presented a copy of the Church 
 Service to the King, and explained to him, through Ra 
 Hanirika, that a part of the book contained our prayers 
 in public worship, a part the Psalms, another the Les- 
 sons, &c. I afterwards gave a manuscript copy of the 
 prayer, which I have composed for use after the prayer
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 303 
 
 for our Queen ; and the Chief Secretaiy took a great deal 
 of pains to read to the King the prayer for Queen Vic- 
 toria, and to translate it ; and he then translated our 
 prayer for the King and Queen of ^ladagascar, and I 
 placed it in the Church Service.* In doing this, I told 
 the King what my wishes were with reference to the dif- 
 fusion of the Gospel in Madagascar, and the establishment 
 of schools ; that I found Antananarivo pretty well occu- 
 pied by Mr. Ellis, and that I had no wish to interfere at 
 all with his work, but that I desired, wherever an opening 
 was presented, to tiy to avail myself of it, and alluded espe- 
 cially to places on the coast. The King^s reply was, that 
 he would be glad for me to do an)i:hing I could for the 
 good of the people, whether at Antananarivo or elsewhere; 
 and I said that I was very thankful to have his sanction 
 so clearly expressed. I then spoke of the Royal College 
 at Mauritius, and the advantages which might be reaped 
 there by youths from Madagascar. The reply was, that 
 any families desiring to send their sons were at perfect 
 liberty to do so. Schools for the children of the lower 
 classes were then spoken of, and I offered to do anything 
 
 * Prater for the King axd Queen of Madagascar. 
 " Almighty God, by whom kings reign and princes decree 
 justice, we earnestly beseech Thee to give Thy blessing to Eadama, 
 King of this Island, and to his Queen, and to make them instru- 
 ments in Thy hand for promoting the temporal and spiritual 
 welfare of the people committed to their charge. May they be 
 guided by Thy grace in the performance of their high duties, and 
 at length obtain the crown of eternal life, thi'ough Jesus Christ 
 our Lord. Amen."
 
 304 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 I could in procuring the requisite appliances^ in the way 
 of slates, books, maps, &c, 
 
 Mr. Ellis, who came in soon after we had begun, 
 spoke of the love of the English people for Queen Victoria, 
 as connected with their habit of constantly praying for 
 her, and with the diffusion of the Word of God among 
 the people ; adding some plain and faithful remarks on the 
 paramount influence of such facts as these. I then gave 
 an account of the sympathy of the Queen with the suf- 
 ferers from the Hartley Colliery explosion, and the con- 
 solation which that sympathy had given to many poor 
 widows and orphans. The King, who appears to have a 
 very practical turn of mind, seemed much struck with 
 this, and inquired particularly into the nature of the ac- 
 cident, and the number of the sufferers. The Queen was 
 also very attentive. 
 
 Photography and Geography gave a pleasing variety 
 to our interview. Captain Anson presented to the King 
 a gold key with a small aperture at the top, through 
 which a photograph of Queen Victoria was veiy distinctly 
 seen, and looked at with much interest. The King having 
 handed it to the Queen, it was carefully appropriated by 
 the latter. We then told the King that we had found 
 fault with Mr. Ellis for his photograph of him in the 
 book, whereupon Mr. Ellis asked to have the drapery re- 
 moved from another photogi-aph which had been coloured 
 in England and brought out. It struck me as very far 
 superior to that in the book. 
 
 There were two good atlases on the table, sent from
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 305 
 
 Mr. Ellis's native town, and we took occasion to show 
 how Madagascar occupied the same sort of relative posi- 
 sition to Africa as Great Britain did to Europe. Also we 
 pointed out the relative sizes of Mauritius, Madagascar, 
 and Bourbon. This last point seemed greatly to interest 
 the Queen. Then, the King taking my arm, we went on 
 to the school which he is building, and for some time 
 heard very nice singing in English and native music. 
 The national song struck us as very beautiful, and also 
 one in praise of Antananarivo. The King seemed passion- 
 ately fond of music, and was greatly pleased at our ap- 
 proval of several of the pieces. After remaining for some 
 time we took our leave, and the King remained behind, 
 keeping Mr. Ellis with him. 
 
 In the evening of the same day a large body of 
 Christians, representing the three congregations of Anta- 
 nanarivo, and several of them related to the nobles, came, 
 with Mr. Ellis as their interpreter, to express their very 
 great pleasure at our \asit, the love they felt for us, and 
 their wish to show in some substantial way their good-will 
 and affection. These words were accompanied by a pre- 
 sent of a fine fat ox and other gifts. The General replied 
 through Mr. Ellis, that he felt their kindness very deeply; 
 that he rejoiced in receiving such a mark of the good- 
 will of those whom he trusted he could regard as Chris- 
 tians, not only in name, but in reality ; that the fact of 
 many of them being related to the higher families in the 
 land added much to the importance of their being real 
 servants of the Lord Jesus Christ, as their good example 
 
 X
 
 306 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 might have so great an influence on others; that he 
 prayed they might be blessed of God in their basket and 
 in their store, in their persons and in their famiUes, and 
 that we might meet together hereafter in a better land 
 above. A very marked effect was produced on them as 
 Mr. Elhs interpreted the address, of which the above is 
 only a summary, and I then spoke to them in substance 
 as follows, Mr. Ellis again acting as interpreter : — '^ I 
 am very thankful to receive such words of affectionate 
 kindness from you and other Christian brethren here. 
 They answer to the feelings of my heart towards you, and I 
 have had such feelings for many years past. I have read 
 a great deal about Madagascar in Mr. Ellis^s books, and in 
 others, and I have thought about you and prayed for you 
 often. And now, on coming to visit you, I am received 
 by all the Christians T have seen with much love and kind- 
 ness, and I am very thankful for it. If I can do anything 
 for you, it will give me much pleasure, for I earnestly 
 desire your happiness. You have given us a very valuable 
 present, but we value it chiefly because of the affectionate 
 feeling and kind words with which you have accompanied 
 it. I shall now pray that God may bless you all, and 
 though I do not know your language well, I shall say the 
 words in Malagasy, taking them from the New Testament, 
 2 Cor. xiii. 14, — ^The grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, 
 and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy 
 Ghost, be with you all. Amen.' '^ 
 
 Visit to the Places where the Martyrs suffered, Wed- 
 nesday j Aug. 13/A. — Captain Anson accompanied me to
 
 «i V
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 307 
 
 Mr. Ellis^s housCj from whence he guided us to the places 
 of the most touching interest — the spots where the martyrs 
 were put to death. Several native Christians, most of 
 them leading men in the congregations, accompanied us, 
 and while their presence added greatly to the reality of the 
 impression made on us, they were also able to fill up 
 many of the little incidents which give so much effect to 
 the description of such events. We proceeded along the 
 crest of the hill on which the city is built, passing by 
 the King^s Palace, the house of Prince Ramon j a, the 
 School which is being erected, and at last came to an unoc- 
 cupied space, at the end of which, overlooking the steep 
 ascent at the southern extremity, was first of all a slightly- 
 elevated mound, with the remains of the perpendicular 
 part of the cross, on which several had suffered, still in 
 the ground, and the transverse part lying on the grass, 
 and then a ditch some feet down the slope, where many 
 Christians had been speared, some of whose bones were 
 there when we visited the spot. The subdued, and yet 
 eager manner, in which the native Christians described 
 what had happened, was very exciting to the hearers. 
 It made old stories of martyrdom appear quite recent 
 and fresh. From the explanations given to me I 
 gathered the following facts, — That the Christians went 
 to their death with cheerful countenances, singing hymns 
 as long as they were able to do so. Straw was stuffed 
 into their mouths by their persecutors to stop them, but, 
 until violently hindered, they sang loudly the praises of 
 God. Some of the heathens, who were particularly de-
 
 308 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sirioiis of seeing how they behaved when the last hour of 
 suffering came, confessed afterwards that nothing so im- 
 pressed them as the courageous demeanour and glad sing- 
 ing of those who were being led out to death, A large 
 crowd seems to have followed on the occasion to which 
 our friends referred, with shouting and imprecations 
 against the Christians. The victims were taken into the 
 ditch and made to bend forward, and then two spears 
 were struck into their bodies, one on each side of the 
 backbone, and when they fell prostrate with their wounds 
 their heads were cut off, and placed in rows along the 
 edge of the ditch. The heads of five members of one 
 family were placed thus in a row on one occasion, and 
 thirteen others behind them, and were left a long time 
 there, till removed secretly, as I understood, by their 
 friends. The whole scene, the description, the mournful 
 tone of voice, the affectionate earnestness of manner of 
 those who told us, some of whom had been for years ex- 
 posed to the most imminent danger themselves, all pro- 
 duced a most solemn effect on the mind. There was a 
 keen wind blowing from the south-east, reminding me of 
 the breezes on Hampstead Heath, and the story to which 
 we were listening made me realize the deep sympathy 
 which Christians at home would feel in all such records 
 and evidences of the faith and devotedness unto death of 
 that part of "the noble army of martyrs ^^ who had suf- 
 fered where we stood. 
 
 On going from that extremity of the hill back towards 
 the town, we descended by a very steep path, so as to go
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 309 
 
 under the rock from which many had been hurled. Mr. 
 Ellis pointed out in one of the many villages_, which are 
 as it were dependent on Antananarivo, the spot where 
 several persons were stoned or beheaded, I think as re- 
 cently as 1858, because they were Christians. We then 
 passed along the base of the town-hill, crossed a very deep 
 ditch, and ascended as near as we could get to the fatal 
 rock from which many had been hurled, and on one 
 memorable occasion, as many as fourteen at once; the 
 summit of the rock is in sight of the western verandah of 
 the large palace : one fall, appearing to be more than 70 
 feet, brought the victims to a rounded-off ledge, over which 
 they went some 50 feet more; and peach-trees were in 
 blossoQi when we were there, at the veiy spot where the 
 bodies generally stopped. It was a very harrowing spec- 
 tacle to witness the actual rock from which our brethren 
 and sisters had been thro^Ti with so much cruelty to meet 
 so fearful a death ; but the e\idence was clear, that they 
 had died with unfailing faith and triumphant hope. The 
 brother of one of the sufferers was with us — a manly and 
 devoted Christian he seemed to be ; I saw him every day, I 
 believe, while I was in Antananarivo, and sometimes twice 
 a-day, and oftener. He brought his children to see me, 
 and from all that I saw of him I was led to form the 
 highest opinion of his straightforward, earnest, Christian 
 character: but when we afterwards came to the spot to 
 which the bodies of those fourteen were taken to be burnt, 
 he wept like a child at the recollection of his brother's 
 sufferings. One severe part of the fiery trial through
 
 310 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 which these Christians passed, was their being j^l^ced 
 where they could see the fall of their brethren, and then 
 being asked whether they would not recant : but all such 
 attempts to shake their constancy proved ineifectual. 
 They seemed so filled with a realization of the love of 
 their Saviour, and with a joyful hope of heaven, that they 
 utterly despised all offers of life on such conditions. One 
 very striking instance I heard of from an old officer of 
 the palace, as well as from our companions on that day. 
 A young woman, who was beautiful and accomplished, 
 and who was very much liked by the Queen, was placed 
 where she could see her companions fall, and was asked, 
 at the instance of the Queen, who wished to save her life, 
 but would not exempt her from the common sentence 
 against the Christians, whether she would not worship the 
 gods and save her life: she refused, manifesting so much 
 determination to go with her brethren and sisters to 
 heaven, that the officers standing by struck her on the 
 head, and said, " You are a fool ! you are mad ! " and they 
 sent to the Queen, and told her she had lost her senses, 
 and should be sent to some place of safe-keeping. She 
 was sent away, strongly guarded, into the country, some 
 thirty miles away, and afterwards was married to a Chris- 
 tian man, and died only two years ago, leaving two or 
 three children behind her. 
 
 It may well be conceived that our feelings were veiy 
 deeply stirred by all this, and that we were prepared to 
 look with no ordinary interest on the houses of the first 
 Missionaries, on the sites of the first chapels, and on the
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 311 
 
 European graveyard, all of which we passed on our way 
 to the last of the four spots we had to visit. This was 
 just at the opposite end of the town from the first, 
 forming the northern or north-western bluff of the hill, 
 and visible from the Palace. Here four nobles were 
 burnt because they were Christians, — that kind of death 
 being inflicted because it is not counted right to shed 
 the blood of a noble. One of them was a woman, and 
 the child which was born while she was at the stake was 
 pushed back into the flames by the ruthless persecutors. 
 The bodies of those who had been hurled from the rock 
 were brought hither to be burned, and it was here that 
 the brother of one of the sufferers was so much overcome 
 by his grief. The object of bringing those bodies so 
 great a distance seems to have been to intimidate the 
 residents in that quarter, where Christianity had espe- 
 cially flourished, among the artisans by whom it is chiefly 
 inhabited. 
 
 Each of these four spots is likely to be had in lasting 
 remembrance, for Mr. Ellis has secured these four sites 
 for chapels, which he hopes soon to be able to erect. 
 The congregations have so long been in a state of ex- 
 treme depression as to worldly circumstances, and so 
 many of their members have so recently been delivered 
 from ardent persecution and imminent danger of death, 
 that they are not able to do this of themselves ; and it is 
 to be hoped that there will be no difficulty, on the part 
 of friends and brethren at home, in showing their prac- 
 tical sympathy with the survivors of such devoted ser-
 
 312 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 vants of Christ, by giving gladly of their substance to 
 help them. I was very much struck with the similarity 
 of the accounts given by these Madagascar Christians to 
 the Martyrologies of earlier days. The insulting taunts 
 and the insidious questions, met with calm courage and 
 unbending firmness, were points on which one might 
 have expected an agreement; but the supernatural ap- 
 pearances, the beautiful rainbows, and other such well- 
 known accompaniments of ancient stories, were repeated 
 with an earnestness, which was the more striking be- 
 cause I did not expect it. Then, that the genuine 
 instinct of the Christian heart should so naturally lead 
 to the selection of those places of suffering as sites 
 for places of worship, by those who desire so carefully to 
 eschew all that looks like mere form, or that approaches 
 to superstition. How naturally a commemoration-service 
 would follow ! God grant that the national church of 
 Madagascar, which has yet to be formed, may approach 
 in some other points to the early model, and that we 
 may be able to hold sweet communion in public worship 
 with those whom we ought so fully to esteem and 
 love ! 
 
 Aug. 14/A. — I breakfasted with a native family, going 
 with Mr. Ellis to the house. The father, mother, and 
 six childi'en were assembled, the youngest in its grand- 
 mother's arms. It was a beautiful sight to see the little 
 things with their foreheads on the ground, in Oriental 
 fashion, at prayers, the infant in its grandmother's arms, 
 covered by her lamba. The old lady seemed much
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 313 
 
 pleased when I made a remark on the affection of grand- 
 parents for the little ones. 
 
 Afterwards I visited the King's School with the 
 General. We found the King there, as he was reading 
 with Mr. Ellis in a room close at hand; Ra Hanirika^s 
 sons were there again_, and Ra Hanirika repeated my re- 
 quest for the music of the National Anthem, and the 
 song in praise of Antananarivo. The General w^as also 
 much pleased with the singing. After that was over we 
 came away, and afterwards heard that the King had re- 
 sumed his reading with Mr. Ellis. 
 
 Aug. loth. — From some unexpected difficulty about 
 the palanquins, we arrived rather late at the French 
 banquet, the appointed time being two o'clock, and 
 found the King and Queen, and all the rest of the com- 
 panj^, assembled. My place w^as on one side, next to the 
 Keeper of the Seals ; opposite me were Colonel Lezline 
 and the Abbe Fenaz, who is mentioned in one of Bishop 
 Mackenzie's letters. Mr. Laborde was particularly atten- 
 tive j and indeed the impression made by the whole ban- 
 quet, which was most tastefully got up, was of a very 
 pleasing character, from the cordial urbanity of our hosts, 
 and from the interchange of friendly sentiments which 
 took place after General Johnstone's speech. "We left 
 (the General and I) at about six o'clock. 
 
 Auff. IQth. — A banquet was given for the King at 
 the house of the Commander-in-Chief. On arriving at 
 three o'clock we were ushered into a handsome room, 
 with a gallery all round it, where we took our seats at
 
 314 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 once round the table. I sat on the left of our host_, the 
 General on the right. The brother of our host was on 
 my left, next to him a daughter of Prince Ramonja, 
 and then Mr. Ellis ; on the right of the General another 
 daughter of Prince Ramonja : Ra Hanirika_, Capt. Anson, 
 and all the English in Antananarivo, were present, except 
 Dr. Mellor, who had hurt his hand. Mr. Ellis inter- 
 preted on the left, and Ra Hanirika on the right. I 
 was very much interested with the young men of high 
 rank whom we met that evening. There were many 
 courses, in each of which rice held a large part, and 
 many toasts were drunk with much moderation. We 
 (the General and I) left at about six, as did Mr. Ellis, 
 to whose house I afterwards proceeded, and held im- 
 portant conversation with him, ending the evening with 
 prayer with the little company assembled in his room. 
 
 I had a parting interview with the King; Mr. Ellis, 
 Dr. Mellor, and Ra Hanirika, were there again. Again I 
 thanked the King and Queen for their kindness, and 
 expressed my earnest wishes for their prosperity, and for 
 God's blessing on their people. Afterwards I called at 
 Ra Hanirika^s house; I found that a beautiful lamba 
 had been sent for me, instead of being presented to 
 me. 
 
 Aug. 17th. — On the last Sunday I was up early, 
 and witnessed in various ways the gatherings of the 
 Christians on their way to their public worship. The 
 groups of people in their white lambas going to the 
 chapels, which begin to be filled quite early, were a most
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 315 
 
 interesting sight; and the cheerfulness of countenance of 
 such as I met on my way to Mr. EUis^s for my early 
 bath_, was very pleasant to witness. I had before used 
 my glass in making out from our elevated place of resi- 
 dence the little bands wending their way to the chapels 
 situate in the eastern end of the town. A little before 
 nine o^ clock Mr. Ellis called for me^ and I went with 
 him to one chapel^ the doors of which were so densely 
 thronged that we went round to the others^ hoping to 
 find an easier entrance, and at last were obliged to force 
 our way through a crowd; and in passing to the central 
 part of the chapel, it needed the greatest care not to 
 tread upon the closely-packed people. We thought about 
 1200 were present. A native Evangelist was speaking 
 with much fluency and apparent efi'ect when we went 
 in. When he had done, Mr. Ellis officiated for a time, 
 and then introduced me as their friend. 1 addressed 
 them through Mr. Ellis, as interpreter, on the words, — 
 '' The fulness of the blessing of the gospel of Christ.^^ 
 We afterwards looked in at another chapel, just to say 
 '^ Yeloma," pronounced '^ veloom,^^ and 1 read the Bless- 
 ing (2 Cor. xiii. 14) in Malagasy. I then proceeded to 
 my own English service, which was attended as on the 
 previous Sunday, with the addition of several young 
 Malagasy officers, most of whom I have often seen and 
 conversed with. Not long after the conclusion of this 
 service, I was told that the leaders of the singing in the 
 chapels wished to come and sing with me before parting. 
 About seventy men and women came into the room and
 
 316 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 sang : I prayed with them in Enghsh, ending with the 
 
 Lord's Prayer and the Blessing in Malagasy ; and since 
 
 they left I have had one or two quiet hours, in part of 
 
 which I have been reading a veiy interesting portion of 
 
 the life of Bishop Wilson. The evening service was 
 
 chiefly in French. It is probable that my public work 
 
 in Antananarivo is now over. I feel very thankful to be 
 
 so much better to-day than I was last Sunday. 
 
 The simplicity, fervour, and zeal of these native 
 
 Christians are most remarkable. Their enjoyment of 
 
 Sunday services has reminded me forcibly of Watts's 
 
 lines, — 
 
 " In holy duties let the day 
 In holy pleasures pass away." 
 
 And one part of their practice is very suggestive of a 
 pleasant explanation of some of our anthems, — I mean, 
 the very great repetition which there is in their singing. 
 They go over the same verse eight times, and oftener, 
 without the least indication of anything like weariness; 
 as if the heart was so taken up with the sentiment that 
 it is quite a pleasure to repeat it. 
 
 Aug. l^th. — The morning of my departure from 
 Antananarivo was full of interesting incidents. Before 
 I bade good-bye to the little party at Mr. Ellis's, Psalm 
 cxxii. was read, and prayer offered, and I left them with 
 many assurances of their kind wishes and good-will. 
 Large numbers came to our residence, and amongst 
 them one young man whom I had often seen, who, 
 with many apologies, said that he hoped I would not
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 317 
 
 be offended at liis offering me a present^ but that lie did 
 not like me to go without one from him_, and that he 
 wished to give me money to procure my breakfast on 
 the road, I thanked him yerj heartily, but told him 
 that I could not accept money, and that, as I had a 
 breakfast already provided, I could not take two any 
 more than I could wear two hats. I said this to try 
 to pass off the disappointment which he expressed, but 
 I fear I did not succeed. This was the last token at 
 Antananarivo of a generous kindness, which had mani- 
 fested itself eveiy day, and often several times each day, 
 during the whole of our residence there. I left at about 
 eight, ha\dng seen 'Mv. Pakenham, who had arrived on 
 the Saturday, and Mr. Wadling, who had come down to 
 wish me good-bye. The General accompanied me as far 
 as Amprasoeiro, and I parted from him with feelings of 
 thankfulness at having had so much of his company in 
 all the previous time, and with the earnest prayer that 
 a blessing may rest upon him in remaining to fulfil im- 
 portant duties in the capitak 
 
 About seven miles from Antananarivo, with a bright 
 sun, a clear blue sky, and a delicious animating breeze, 
 I saw before me on the plain several groups of people, 
 among whom the white lamba, and Yerj white too, pre- 
 dominated; and on looking through my glass, found 
 that some of them were Christian friends who had come 
 to the capital to see me, and who were mindful of my 
 statement to them that I should probably pass not far 
 from their village on the Monday. The whole was
 
 318 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 most Pilgrim' s-Progress-like, and the similarity was not 
 diminished by the fact that twenty-six of them (eight 
 men and eighteen women) came to our resting-place, and 
 we had singing and prayer together, and they gave me 
 their names and asked me for mine, and left a present 
 of poultry and rice for our journey. 
 
 Maromanga, Aug. 20th. — Here am I, three days 
 on my return journey with Dr. Mellor, and Mr. Castray 
 of the Commissariat department, who is a very experienced 
 and methodical traveller. Last night I had symptoms 
 of w^hat might have proved heavy sickness, but I am 
 much better to-day. 
 
 Ampossifoty, Aug. 2\st. — We have just met Mr. 
 Lambert and his friends. He has the crown for Radama, 
 and has succeeded in getting all the European powers 
 formally to acknowledge him as king of Madagascar. I 
 questioned him about his being detained at Beforana by 
 order of the Queen, that he might catch the fever, 
 and heard that it was so; that Madame Pfeiffer and 
 himself w^ere detained there nineteen days, and caught it 
 very badly. Sarradie has just come to tell me that a 
 Christian aide-de-camp of Radama's has been helping him 
 to repair my palanquin. 
 
 Aug. 22nd. — After parting with Mr. Lambert we 
 reached Analamazaotra, in good time to have a walk in the 
 forest. I w^as very restless in the early part of the night from 
 a kind of over-excitement, and most thankful, knowing the 
 journey before me, to find that I had gone to sleep, and felt 
 too the comfort of my well-swung cot, as I heard the noise
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 319 
 
 of the numerous rats. The bearers were very noisy here. 
 lu the morning a dense mist hung over the whole forest, 
 but by degrees it cleared and we were not more than three 
 hours in getting to Andenahana. 1 felt curious to see 
 what sort of ground we had passed over in the dark and 
 in the rain, and saw what a struggle it must have been, 
 with so much more water in the streams than there was 
 to-day. As the mist gradually cleared away and the sun 
 shone brightly on the deep forests, in the valleys, and on 
 the hills, the views were very magnificent. Dr. Mellor was 
 with me when we were near some very fine trees; amongst 
 them the borasses-palm, and over them parasites of 
 all kinds. I got out of my palanquin at the '^Bullock's 
 Lamentation," a place of which no description would con- 
 vey a con-ect idea. The reason of the name given to me is 
 this, that when the poor animals come to the top of the path 
 they find it impracticable to walk down and are obliged 
 to slide down, on all-fours; and that when they reach 
 the bottom the large drops are rolling from their eyes. My 
 ebony stafi", bought from the chieftain at Manombohitra 
 on the way up, was of great use to me here. There were 
 several large birds flying in circles overhead, with a veiy 
 loud and mournful scream. The lemurs at one time were 
 crying out in concert with them. It was altogether a 
 morning of much enjoyment. Somewhere about here, I 
 think it was, that the ]\laromites, on hearing the report of 
 a gun in the woods, said it was Befek-fak, which I believe 
 means, " the Gatherer of Leaves ;" an epithet applied by 
 them to Dr. Mellor, from his habit of collecting specimens
 
 320 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 on the road. The afternoon journey to Beforana was in- 
 deed a marked contrast to our journey up the same road 
 on August 6th. The bright sun enabled us to see the 
 forest in all its beauty, and when we came on elevated 
 openings in the road we saw the ranges of mountains 
 parallel to each other, stretching far away in the distance, 
 and covered wath woods. I felt very thankful and en- 
 couraged, as we came along, to think that the worst part 
 of our journey was now £>yeY. 
 
 Andanaha Menarana [Hole of Serpents), Aug. 26th. 
 — Here we are, I am thankful to say, safely on the coast 
 again, having come this morning from the other side of 
 Marombe, at the head of the Iheroqua river; and after 
 three hours and a-half rowing, reached Andevorante, from 
 which place we have come on here, after I had had a most 
 refreshing bathe in the breakers on the coast. It was 
 twenty-nine days since I had left the salt water. Last 
 Sunday was a very remarkable one. We were resting at 
 a place called Ampassimbe, when who should come into 
 the village but two of the London jMissionary Society's 
 Missionaries, with their wives and the Missionary Su- 
 perintendent of Schools. We soon made their acquaint- 
 ance, and they came into our Litany service, at 
 the close of which we sang, "How beauteous are their 
 feet," &c. ; and then a Malagasy service began, singing, 
 prayer, and reading, and I pronounced the Blessing. We 
 then dismissed the Malagasy congregation, amongst 
 whom I counted nine or ten native Christians, and instead 
 of a sermon I read the account of my visit to the four
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 321 
 
 spots where the mai-tyrs bad suffered in Antananarivo. 
 Yesterday morning we parted with them, and yesterday 
 evening, as I was walking across the hilly country of 
 our last stage, I met the three others, looking in ex- 
 cellent health and spirits. They have a vast work before 
 them. 
 
 Tamatave, Sept. \st. — Through God^s grace and 
 blessing, I have got back safely thus far, and it is now 
 the fifth day that we have been here, waiting for our ship. 
 This is a great disappointment to me, especially as I have 
 had some very unpleasant symptoms of illness since we 
 arrived ; but I am thankful to say that I feel much better 
 to-day, and I hope that the delay here may help me in 
 the work for which I am come to Madagascar. The time 
 of my journey has been a very solemn one, with spiritual 
 and eternal realities pressing veiy closely on my soul. 
 The degraded state of the heathen here, and the feivent 
 piety of many of the Christians, bring the kingdom of 
 Satan and that of Jesus Christ into very palpable con- 
 trast ; and the joy of the Christians in their present 
 liberty is very clearly explained by the sad tales of per- 
 secution and suffering, even unto death, of which they 
 have to tell. It seemed strange, as well as deHghtful, to 
 be holding services, as I did all the way up, when there 
 was the opportunity, in places where, one short year 
 before, it would have been death to have attended them. 
 Amongst my bearers were some very earnest Christians, 
 who are still clinging to me, though their employment is 
 over ; and one fine young man, an inquirer, who, like all 
 
 Y
 
 322 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 others into whose case I have inquired, has been attracted 
 to Christianity by some striking circumstance in the his- 
 tory of friends, masters_, or relations. The recovery of a 
 rich heathen's child, after he had asked the prayers of 
 Christians for it, all other means having failed, was what 
 made this youth first think of attending to Christianity. 
 Another very devout young man told me yesterday how 
 his mistress had taught him, and that her husband had 
 been put to death, and herself sold as a slave, because of 
 her religion. These are some specimens of the reasons 
 they give. One good old man found out my liking for 
 good water, and at all the mountain- streams was ready 
 to supply me ; and, what has proved of much more im- 
 portance since we are here, where the water is not good, 
 he goes out more than a mile to a stream where it is ex- 
 cellent. I have prayers with them morning and evening 
 here, and have been much comforted by their company. 
 The people here are very thankful for the prospect of help 
 from us. Their devoutness and affectionate manner in the 
 service of God are very instructive to behold. May we 
 be guided and prospered, so as really to help them ! The 
 need of Madagascar is urgent. 
 
 Sept. Srd. — Last night fifteen native Christians came 
 in to our evening prayers, and this morning about nine. 
 Two of my best bearers have returned to-day to the 
 capital. I quite feel that I have parted with brethren in 
 saying ^^ Good-bye '' to them: such society has been the 
 great charm of my travels here. 
 
 The "Gorgon " arrived at Tamatave on Friday morning.
 
 VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 323 
 
 September 5th, and we started the next day, reaching 
 Mauritius in three days and a-half. 
 
 It would be ungrateful on my part did I not mention 
 the great kindness shown to me by Captain Dupre of the 
 French frigate " Hermione/^ and by Mons. Depresbourg, 
 who was left in command during the absence of the Com- 
 mandant at Antananarivo. Hearing that I was ill, Mons. 
 Depresbourg sent a courteous message, offering me any 
 medical attendance which could be supplied from the 
 ship.
 
 324 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Very soon after my return from Madagascar we were 
 startled by tlie intelligence that a severe hurricane had 
 visited the Seychelles,, and that there had been great 
 loss of life and property from the effects of its violence. 
 Those islands are so completely out of the usual track 
 of hurricanes, that in former days, when men-of-war 
 were stationed at Mauritius, they were sent to the 
 Seychelles during the hurricane season. Consequently, 
 when one of those fearful tempests hm'st upon Mahe, 
 on the 12th of October, many of the houses were 
 unable to resist its violence; and there were no outlets 
 provided for the torrents, which rushed down the water- 
 courses from the hills surrounding the chief town — 
 Port Victoria. The result was, the destruction of many 
 dwellings from the force of the wind, and the carrying 
 away of houses and trees, and many human beings, by 
 the flood. It was a providential circumstance that 
 H. M. ship "Orestes'^ was in the harbour; as effectual 
 relief was at once administered by Captain Gardner, in
 
 CONCLUSION. 325 
 
 the supply of food for the poor whose houses had been 
 swept away and their stores of provisions destroyed; 
 while the officers and men helped to restore the com- 
 munication between different parts of the town. It 
 was very gratifying to hear^ through the report sent by 
 the Acting Commissioner, Mr. Dupuy, of the zeal with 
 which the Acting Chaplain, the Rev. H. Vaudin — who 
 was supplpng the place of Dr. Fallet, absent on leave 
 — had applied himself to the work of attending to the 
 sufferers and helping to alleviate their sorrows. Dr^ 
 Brooks, the Government Medical Officer, had been inces- 
 santly employed in the care of the wounded and the 
 relief of the distressed; and Mr. Brunton, the Inspector 
 of Police, had not only supplied assistance to the town, 
 but was gone to examine the state of the country dis- 
 tricts. In Mauritius, the Mayor of Port Louis had 
 proposed to hold a meeting in aid of the Lancashire 
 Distress Fund, but it was felt to be necessary to delay 
 that measure, and to make an appeal at once for the 
 suffering population at the Seychelles. This was done, 
 and by the next mail I went to visit them. The Sur- 
 veyor-General, Captain Morrison, E.E., went by the 
 same opportunity; and Mr. Prince, Superintendent of 
 Police, had gone some days previously by a sailing- 
 vessel. 
 
 We landed at Bourbon, now called Reunion, the 
 next day, and were very kindly received by the 
 Consul, Mr. Hay Hill, who took us to see several of 
 the public buildings ; amongst them the Library, which
 
 326 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 has a good collection of books^ in the Historical Depart- 
 ment especially. We called on the Governor, Baron 
 Darican ; and were shown over the barracks by an 
 officer, whom I had seen at Antananarivo a few weeks 
 before. The monument to Captain Munro, who w^as 
 killed in the action which was fought when the English 
 took the island, was pointed out to us on an open piece 
 of ground, just outside St. Denis. We spent about 
 three hours in going round the town, and were chiefly 
 struck with the size of some of the houses, the large 
 extent of garden-ground attached to them, and the luxu- 
 riant growth of some of the trees. 
 
 Leaving Bourbon on the evening of the 7th, we 
 made He Platte at two o^clock on the 11th, and Mahe 
 long before sunset ; and then we went at slow speed 
 for a time, and afterwards stopped altogether till towards 
 morning. AVhen 1 came on deck we were beyond St. 
 Ann's, so that 1 had not the opportunity which I had 
 expected of observing the state of the island from the 
 southern point onwards. One of the passengers, the 
 Bev. P. Pennington, made a remark on the exceeding 
 beauty of the view from the roadstead, which was quite 
 in accordance with the testimony of many other ob- 
 servers; but there were changes visible to me, which 
 made a great diflference in my impressions of the scene. 
 The tremendous landslips which had taken place, espe- 
 cially to the left of the towni, as we looked from the 
 ship, gave the idea of most complete and overwhelming 
 destruction. On shore we found all the cocoa-nut trees
 
 CONCLUSION. 327 
 
 blighted; the traveller's trees with their large leaves 
 broken; and many other trees, a very fine tamarind 
 among them, level with the ground. The fine trees by 
 Dr. Brooks's house were completely spoiled. Looking 
 towards Government House, from the bridge by the 
 Church, we saw what a wide sweep the flood had made, 
 reaching to our schools on one side, and beyond Royal 
 Street on the other. Between these two, the Police 
 buildings, the Church, and Mr. Vaudin's house, are 
 situate. A very little more destruction in some parts, 
 or less egress for the water in others, might have led to 
 the most disastrous consequences for those buildings, 
 and for the people in them. Two children were carried 
 by the flood into Mr. Vaudin's yard, one dead and the 
 other just expiring. A most thrilling account was given 
 me afterwards by a woman, who had been driven with 
 her children from one refuge to another ; and, as all had 
 been blown down or carried away, just managed with 
 help to get through the mud to the church, where 
 several families were gathered, with the corpses of the 
 children near them. After it was dark, and the lamps 
 were lit in the church, they heard the voice of a man 
 shouting, " Sauve moi ! sauve moi ! " and it gradually 
 diminished in strength, till, as they supposed, he was 
 drowned. 
 
 But to return to the account, which it will perhaps be 
 better for me to give in the order in which I saw the 
 places or heard the narratives of the people. I shall now 
 mention the visit to the Cemetery, where the marks of the
 
 328 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 raging flood were really terrific. On looking up what had 
 been a very beautiful valley, with houses large and small, 
 and avenues of trees and gardens, and humbler plant- 
 ations, a wide surface presented itself covered with masses 
 of granite rocks, some of which, at the distance of at 
 least a mile from the first fall of the clifi", had been dis- 
 lodged from their bed and hurled against the wall, with 
 such violence as to knock it down level with the ground, 
 and to make a passage for the flood, which brought the 
 debris of a house, which it had demolished outside, right 
 among the graves ; and to carry away entirely the building 
 which had been used to receive the coffins, and to shelter 
 the minister and attendants at funerals. As the Cemetery 
 rises abruptly to a considerable height, the stream was 
 sent back through the lowest corner, and again mingled 
 with the other waters and flowed towards Government 
 House. Here a tree-covered mound diverted it by a few 
 yards from the straight course towards the house, or all 
 would have been swept away. On looking from Go- 
 vernment House towards the sea, the change from former 
 days was very mournful. The whole of the richly cul- 
 tivated ground was now covered with grey mud and 
 sand, and detritus of granite, as the waters had flowed 
 round the elevated land on which the Government House 
 stands. 
 
 After a little while, I went with Dr. Brooks, Captain 
 Morrison, Mr. Prince, and Mr. Vaudin, to the main chan- 
 nel by which the flood had rushed down, the damage at 
 the Cemetery having been caused by a slight turn to the
 
 CONCLUSION. 329 
 
 right. Here the size of the blocks of granite was enor- 
 mous, Captain Morrison estimating some at more than 
 100 tons. The ravine was greatly deepened in some 
 places. One large house, with several Sisters of ^Mercy in 
 it, and a Capuchin Friar and children, and others who 
 had fled thither for refuge, was raised from its foundations, 
 and then collapsed amidst the water and mud, by which 
 many of the inmates were suffocated. The Friar''s escape 
 was very remarkable — nearly five hours were employed in 
 digging him out. This body of water seems to have been 
 the cause of most of the deaths which occurred in the 
 town. One poor young woman was rescued who gave 
 birth to a child on the following day. Her aged mother 
 perished. 
 
 During the afternoon and evening T received four visits, 
 which brought the reality of the scenes strongly to my 
 view. One was from Mons. Dubois, living about a mile 
 and a-half to the south of the tovrn. Destruction of life 
 and property took place very near him, and he said that 
 as the strong gusts of wind swept over the store which 
 he was tiying to secure, he remarked how merciful it was 
 that the house was sheltered by those large trees ; alluding 
 to two very fine caoutchouc trees, which I had often ad- 
 mired. On reaching his house, he found both level with 
 the ground. Mr. Mulloy told me, that as they were in the 
 house, which is on an elevation, he heard a sound as of 
 thunder, and on opening the door, he saw the vast rush 
 of water and stones going down, destroying the houses as 
 I have mentioned before ; and that the houses in the
 
 330 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 midst of it looked like sliips tossed about in the sea. 
 The great aunt of three motherless boys, whose father is 
 in the Mauritius police-force, came to tell me that their 
 grandmother, who kept them, was carried away by the 
 flood. I saw them afterwards, and took care they should 
 be relieved for the present. P. Annette^s brother-in-law 
 called, and described the efforts made for rescuing suf- 
 ferers and dead bodies in a very animated manner. His 
 caze was injured and his leg hurt ; but he had* struggled 
 to work, " pour me debattre, et Dieu merci j^ai reussi.^^ 
 He had a veiy vivid recollection of warnings given by Dr. 
 Fallet, " peut-etre cocas perdis, peut-etre maladie, peut- 
 etre ouragan j beaucoup di monde parle ca dans les rues 
 a present.''^ 
 
 On the next day, Nov. 13, I was in-doors almost en- 
 tirely the whole day, occupied in the intervals between the 
 visits, which were very numerous, in preparing a sermon 
 on Psalm ix. 5, which I preached in the evening. It 
 was a subject most congenial with the current of my 
 thoughts, and the tone of conversation kept up by those 
 who came to me. A plaintive and solemn impression 
 seemed to be upon them all. The service was well at- 
 tended, and my text had a power of application to the 
 circumstances which made it very impressive. " Tu les 
 emportes comme par une ravine d^eau,^^ was no longer a 
 similitude, but the description of a reality. 
 
 One heartrending case of bereavement was that of Mr. 
 Arthur Barallon, whose emotion in describing it to me 
 was very touching to witness. When the dead were
 
 CONCLUSION. 331 
 
 counted, lie had lost his father, two sisters, two nephews, 
 three nieces — eight in all. Such instances as these may 
 serve to give an idea of what the work of desolation has 
 been. Distress in many forms prevails in the land, and 
 there will be need of much patient investigation of the 
 varied wants of different individuals, that the money 
 voted by Government and that collected by public sub- 
 scriptions may be judiciously and effectually applied. At 
 a committee-meeting, vdih the Acting Commissioner in the 
 chair, at which I was present as a member of the Central 
 Committee of Mauritius, a classification was made of four 
 classes eligible for relief. 1st. Those who needed rations. 
 2nd. Those who needed tools and materials. 3rd. Those 
 whose loss of relatives and bad state of health made them 
 dependent on help from others. 4th. Those whose losses 
 of property would make it desirable to offer them some com- 
 pensation. I mentioned a strong case of this kind, where 
 a deserving and industrious young man had worked hard at 
 a cocoa-nut property, and was giving material assistance to 
 an aged father and other relations, when the tempest came, 
 and the flood carried away a large quantity of the oil 
 already in store, and several thousand cocoa-nuts ready 
 for crushing were spoiled in the ruins of the magazine, in 
 which they had been stored. My own inquiries were 
 prosecuted carefuUy during the whole time of my stay, 
 and I had many opportunities of administering relief 
 which was most gratefully received, after I had ascer- 
 tained that it was really wanted. 
 
 The more strictly ecclesiastical part of my visit had
 
 332 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 much that was very interesting connected with it. To see 
 the Church not only unhurt^ but with its towers so tho- 
 roughly finished^ and to connect with it the preservation 
 of human life and the large distribution of food to the des- 
 titute and hungry which has taken place since the hur- 
 ricane, was very gratifying. The tower was filled with bags 
 of rice, of which there were many also piled up in two 
 corners of the church, as no other building was available 
 at the time, and the strictly eleemosynary charaeter of the 
 transaction made it resemble the collection of alms at our 
 offertories. The church-yard has also been partly occupied, 
 there being no access to the cemetery. This will be a 
 solemn and impressive memento of the visitation which 
 came upon the town on the 12th October, 1862; and it 
 may prove advisable hereafter to have a tablet in the 
 church wdth a suitable commemorative inscription. 
 
 On the 14th, Captain Morrison, Mr. Prince, Mr. 
 Vaudin, and I, w^nt to Praslin, starting just before sun- 
 rise, and reaching the island after midday. In a planta- 
 tion near our church there, a large number of cocoa-nut- 
 trees had been blown down; but the chief effect pro- 
 duced, as far as I could learn, was from the immense de- 
 posit of water, which seems to have been some feet deep 
 on the plain below the mountains. No notice had been 
 given of our coming, so that we found even the catechist 
 away on one of his regular services in another part of the 
 island ; but we sent messengers about in different direc- 
 tions, and the people came, though in smaller numbers 
 than on previous occasions; and some arrived at nine
 
 CONCLUSION. 333 
 
 o^ clock at night, after we had finished. We sang three 
 times, had the Litany, and an address, and the Confirma- 
 tion semce. I had baptized the daughter of a neigh- 
 bouring proprietor just before the service. I was greatly 
 encouraged by what I saw of several of the members of 
 our Church there. The account given by old Constant's 
 wife of her difficulties in learning to read the Bible, and 
 of the comfort which she derives from even her limited 
 ability to read, was very pleasant ; and I found her very 
 earnest about the education of a child whom she has 
 adopted. One of our boatmen helped in Mr. De la Fon- 
 taine^s time ; another is schoolmaster at Praslin, and was 
 confirmed, his wife having been confirmed by the Bishop 
 of Colombo. Candidates of former times came to greet 
 me, and the catechist seemed to me to be going on in his 
 usual, sensible, hardworking manner, with simplicity and 
 success. The chief material improvement since my last 
 visit is a house for the schoolmaster, and the purchase of 
 eleven acres of land to serve partly as a cemetery. "We 
 found one member of the congregation occupied in 
 finishing the tomb of his child. 
 
 At Mahe, Philippe's half-sister was particularly brought 
 to my notice, and a most striking character she is. For 
 many years she has been studpng the Bible, and has 
 read the histories of the Old Testament with enlightened 
 application, and stored up both the narratives and the 
 lessons they convey. Her vivid description of the comfort 
 she derives from reading the Bible at night, without which 
 she cannot sleep, was coupled with expressions of happiness
 
 334 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 in being able to speak to her Heavenly Father for herself 
 and others, which made me feel very thankful to hear that 
 her Bishop was one of those for whom she prayed. She 
 spoke with deep gratitude of Dr. Brooks^s kindness to her, 
 and her aged mother, whom she afterwards brought to 
 see me. 
 
 On Sunday, the 16th, we had the Sunday-school at 
 half-past one, after the morning service in French, during 
 which I held the Confirmation and addressed the candi- 
 dates on three portions of Scripture, — The 1st Psalm, — 
 showing the Book (or law) of God's servants ; Matt. v. 1-12, 
 showing their character; and Rev. vii. 9-17, describing 
 their end. 
 
 A sermon in English in the afternoon, and one in French 
 in the evening, left me completely tired ; and very soon 
 after da^dight the next morning there were persons stand- 
 ing outside, come to visit me and to ask me for relief, or 
 to send messages to their friends in Mauritius. 
 
 It would be difficult to conceive a more impressive con- 
 trast than that presented by the Government House as 
 we knew it in 1856, and in its desolate condition on the 
 occasion of this visit in 1862. At the former period we 
 were enjoying the hospitality of Captain and Mrs. Wade, 
 whose open house was the resort of the officers of the ship, 
 while the inhabitants were continually coming in numbers 
 to welcome their Commissioner on his return; at this latter 
 time Capt. Wade was in his grave, in an elevated part of 
 the Cemetery overlooking the valley, now become a scene of 
 desolation and ruin. Mrs. Wade had died in Jersey, and
 
 CONCLUSION. 335 
 
 their orphan children were in Europe. The ground-floor 
 of the house was occupied by a detachment of the police- 
 force, w4th the exception of the room in which I was 
 sleeping ; and in the upper story was a large gang of Indian 
 prisoners, sent to help in clearing the debris and re-opening 
 the communication in the town. In the excitement of 
 such sorrowful circumstances it was difficult for me to get 
 to sleep, and on one wakeful night I had recoui'se to the 
 practice of earlier days, and beguiled the hours by com- 
 posing some Latin verses, which I committed to paper the 
 next morning, and I insert them here as a part of the re- 
 collections of that solemn visit, and in order to introduce 
 what seems to me a veiy elegant reproduction of the 
 ideas in the French language, by a fellow-passenger on the 
 return voyage to ^Mauritius, — 
 
 Quse domus infantes, matremque, patremque fovebat 
 
 L^etitia et risu, tristis et orba silet. 
 jSTam matris cineres tellus longinqua tuetur ; 
 
 Hie propior tumulus condidit ossa patris ; 
 Vallis, quse magnas eedes humilesque tabemas 
 
 Monstrabat, rapidis obruta sordet aquis : 
 Hie strata est, vulsis altd radicibus, arbos ; 
 
 Hie rupes mira mole voluta jacet ; 
 Donaque naturae videas, hominumque labcres ; 
 
 Communi moestum strage replere solum. 
 Sic cito transibunt humanse gaudia vitae, 
 
 Sic cito terrestris spes ruitura viget. 
 Arripe, mortalis, coelestes an-ipe sedes, 
 
 Queis nunquam saevas mors paret atra vices ; 
 Quas neque ferri acies, dirove incendia fumo. 
 
 Nee tempestatum vis tetigisse valet. 
 
 Government-House, Seychelles, Xov. 1862.
 
 336 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Translation of tlie above by Count S., — 
 
 Ce foyer qu'emplissait de bruit et d'allegresse 
 Le rire des enfants — des parents la tendresse 
 
 Est vide maintenant. 
 La mere a succomb'e sur un autre rivage, 
 Et le tombeau du pere est 1^ pres de la plage, 
 
 Funebre monument. 
 
 Le torrent a comble la riante vallee, 
 L'arbre est deracine — et la roche ebranlee, 
 
 Dans un supreme effort, 
 A dechire les flancs de la vaste montagne 
 Jonche de ses debris la ville et la campagne 
 
 Semant partout la mort. 
 
 Ainsi passent, belas ! les bonbeurs de la terre, 
 Eien ne dure ici bas que I'bumaine misere 
 
 La desillusion ! 
 Vers le ciel seulement portons nos esperances, 
 C'est la qu'on trouve un terme a toute souffrance, 
 
 A toute affliction ! 
 
 It is hoped that the preceding pages will convey to 
 those who are interested in the operations of the Church 
 of England in our colonies and dependencies an accurate 
 impression of the nature of the work to be done in 
 the Diocese of Mauritius ; of the circumstances under 
 which that work has to be carried on ; and of the various 
 nations and kindreds of the earth who are likely, under 
 God^s blessing, to derive advantage from it. A clear call 
 to proceed to "the regions beyond'^ was given by the 
 openings in Madagascar; and it was so evidently the 
 duty of the Bishop of Mauritius to avail himself of the 
 nearness of his position — the distance between Port
 
 CONCLUSION. 337 
 
 Louis and Madagascar being not quite half as great as 
 to the Seychelles — that the Society for the Propagation of 
 the Gospel in Foreign Parts asked me to proceed to the 
 capital, and make the necessary inquiries for the establish- 
 ment of a Church-of-England Mission. That request was 
 not received till after my return. I then ascertained that 
 the subject of Madagascar had been fully and frequently 
 brought to the notice of the members of the Church of 
 England at home, in connexion with a scheme for sending 
 at once a Bishop and six Clergymen to the capital. 
 
 This scheme, which would, doubtless, have been the 
 best to adopt if no antecedent circumstances had made the 
 situation a peculiar one, appeared to me so unadvisable in 
 the actual condition of affairs at Antananarivo, that I felt 
 I could not co-operate in carrying it out. That condi- 
 tion, when I left Mauritius in April, 1863, was as fol- 
 lows, — A king was on the throne who had been favour- 
 ably impressed for Christianity under the teaching of con- 
 verts of the London Missionary Society. Books were ready 
 for our use, such as Grammars, Dictionaries, Vocabularies, 
 and an excellent translation of the Scriptures, through the 
 instrumentality of Missionaries of the same Society, who 
 had reduced the language to writing, and then prepared 
 those books in it. Large numbers of people in the capital 
 had attached themselves to that body as soon as the perse- 
 cution ceased, and it was felt very strongly by the repre- 
 sentatives of the London Missionary Society in Antaca- 
 narivo, and by the Directors at home, that a Mission from 
 us would tend to distract and confuse the minds of the
 
 338 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 native Christians, if carried on just in the one place 
 where thousands had attached themselves to their con- 
 gregations. Strong remonstrances were made against the 
 establishment of such a mission just there, while the most 
 cordial encouragement was given to us to occupy other 
 parts of the island. It therefore seemed to me the best 
 plan for the present to commence Church-of-England 
 Missions in Madagascar under my episcopal superin- 
 tendence from Mauritius. Many advantages would result 
 from making that island the basis of operations at first. 
 All Missionaries go to Mauritius before proceeding to 
 Madagascar. By having institutions in the former island, 
 where newly-arrived clergymen and teachers may become 
 acclimatised to the tropics, be brought into contact 
 with natives of all the parts of their field of work, and 
 thus learn the language, and prepare a body of native 
 helpers to go forth with them, or to which they might 
 send promising youths to be trained for the several depart- 
 ments of Missionaiy work, it is clear that much solid 
 practical good would be secured ; and in cases of sufi'ering 
 from the fevers of Madagascar, the better climate of ^lau- 
 ritius would afford a near and easily accessible sanita- 
 rium. And then, as any Mission developed in its extent, 
 or advanced towards the interior, which would be the 
 certain result of success, a Bishop might be appointed, 
 whose experience of the work and knowledge of the lan- 
 guage made him able efiiciently to direct and to superin- 
 tend the various operations of the Mission. In discussing 
 such a subject, the physical geography of Madagascar
 
 CONCLUSION. 339 
 
 must be carefully considered. A Bishop at Antauanarivo 
 would be separated fifteen days' journey from missions on 
 the coast.* From Mauritius, the same coast is reached in 
 three days. The Romish missions in Madagascar have 
 their basis of operations at Bourbon ; and one cannot but 
 feel, that if there had been an island situated with reference 
 to the Zambesi Mission, as Maui'itius is with reference to 
 Madagascar, there would be in all probability a difi'erent 
 tale to tell as to the results of so much liberality on the 
 part of the Church at home, and so much self-denial and 
 devotedness on the part of those w^ho w^ent forth to the 
 work, and are now classed amongst the "unreturning 
 brave." 
 
 The previous summary of matters of fact contained in 
 this book supplies the reasons which have induced me to 
 offer my personal superintendence, as long as it pleases 
 God to give me the opportunity of doing so ; and I do 
 most earnestly commend the work, with its responsibilities, 
 which are weighty, and its difficulties, which are great, 
 and its encouragements, which are solid and cheering for 
 all believers in God's promises, to the sympathy and the 
 prayers of all who love that Saviour through whom those 
 promises are given for men of " every nation, and kindred, 
 and tribe, and tongue, and people." 
 
 But I should very much regret any impressions about 
 the work in Madagascar which would divert the current of 
 
 * This number of days is given by Commodore Dupre, in his 
 Narrative of a Three Months' Residence in Madagascar, as the 
 time required for the journey.
 
 340 MAURITIUS AND MADAGASCAR. 
 
 prayerful sympathy from the other objects which have 
 been noticed in the preceding pages. To have the oppor- 
 tunity of making known the salvation of Christ amongst 
 tens of thousands who have come from many heathen 
 lands^ is in itself a most powerful reason for seeking to stir 
 up amongst friends and brethren at home the spirit of 
 prayer and intercession for the bestowal of that grace of 
 the Spirit^ which applies the Word for conversion and 
 edification to the soul of man. And when we draw the 
 inference which we are warranted to do^ by the further 
 consideration of plain facts^ that good results obtained in 
 our work in the diocese itself are likely to be reflected in 
 the regions of Eastern Africa, and in many parts of Hin- 
 dostan, — then we feel that an occasion is presented for 
 strong desire, and believing prayer, and earnest expect- 
 ation, that the work in our own districts, in the churches 
 and schools of our many islands, may be well sustained, 
 and largely blessed, and made in abundant measure a 
 blessing in the earth. 
 
 LONDON: 
 Strangeways iSi Walden, Printers, 2S Castle St. Leicester Sq.
 
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