fiKor^air-) 
 
 HISTOM AND DESCRIPTION. 
 
 "^ ^ :l^9^. 
 
 illBM lililii 
 
 By Post for Two St.amps. 
 
 BY MICHAEL T. MOB.EALL, 
 
 ^Cdfc?, HIGH STREET, MANCHESTER, 
 
 BALMORAL HOUST;, MATLOCK.
 
 ^t 
 
 f^ 
 
 ,^< 
 
 ABEL MOERALL, 
 
 NEEDLE AND THIMBLE MANTJFACTTJEER, 
 
 Wareliouses, 4, Grresliam Street, City London, 
 
 & 7, Higli Street, Manchester ; 
 Manufactory, Studley Mills, Nr. BromsgroYe. 
 
 The principal processes now exhibiting in the 
 Machinery Department of the International Ex- 
 hibition, Class 7 B., & Crystal Palace Sydenham,
 
 UCSB LIBRARY 
 
 HISTOfiY AND DESCEIPTION 
 
 OF 
 
 NEEDLE MAKING. 
 
 PRICE ONE PENNY. 
 
 BY POST FOR TWO STAMPS. 
 
 BY 
 
 Michael T. Moeraxl, 7, High-st., M.axchestee, 
 Balmokal House, Matlock. 
 
 1862.
 
 ENTERED AT STATIOXEES' H-iLL. 
 
 3LiXCHESTEE : 
 rRL^TTED BY H. BELDDOK, 55, EArLKN'EE STEEET»
 
 IFMlfA^lc 
 
 In presenting the Third Edition of this little 
 work to the public, it gives me great pleasure to 
 state, that the History and Description of Needle 
 Making, on its first appearance in 1862, was 
 kindly noticed by the press, and well received by 
 the Needle Makers ; many of them having expres- 
 sed to me their satisfaction and surprise that I had 
 procured so much information, as no history of 
 needle making had ever before been published. 
 Descriptions of the processes have attimes appeared 
 in the magazines, but the writers who visited the 
 manufactories at Redditch, treated the subject 
 more as a puff for the manufacturers who enter- 
 tained them, so that very little was known to the 
 public respecting it, pre\TLOus to the Great Exhi- 
 bition of 1851. The ofiicial description on Abel 
 Morrall's case, in Class 22, gave but little in- 
 formation, as it was very defective ; it has been 
 amended and forms part of this work. The cases 
 of needles shewn in the Exhibition were not much 
 noticed, but visitors were most anxious to see 
 needles made by Abel Morrall's machinery in Class 
 6 ; and many notices of needle making appeared 
 in the news-papers diu-ing the time of the Ex- 
 hibition, which has brought the trade prominently 
 before the public . The fi-equent applications from
 
 IT PEEFACE. 
 
 persons connected with the press, for a history of 
 the art, was one reason that induced me to compile 
 the history of needle making. 
 
 This useful branch of manufacture has been the 
 staple trade of Studley, my natiye "sdUage, fi'om 
 time immemorial, and my family are engaged in 
 the business, and haye been for at least six gener- 
 ations, and haye introduced most of the impvoye- 
 ments that have been effected in the modern needle 
 — one of the most useful implements of the world. 
 
 It is indeed an important little article; and before 
 ^yriting its histoiy, I visited the places in England 
 where needles are made. At Long Crendon, in Buck- 
 inghamshire, I was grayely informed that Solomon 
 Shi'impton, a native of that ^-illage, fii-st introduced 
 needle making into the neighbourhood of Redditch 
 at the begimiing of the present centurj\ I answered 
 my informant, that such tales would not do for a 
 history of needle making, as it is well known, that 
 needles were made in that locality, long before any 
 needle maker came there from Long Crendon ; as 
 I remember an old man called George Wigget 
 a natiye of Studley, who was near one hundred years 
 old : this old man could give no infonnation as to 
 the introduction of needle making, but said when he 
 first went out to work, it was to tm-n Alcock's mill 
 at Samboume, near Studley, used for pointing and 
 scoiu'ing needles, and that in his day, Studley was 
 the principle place for needle making. Ha\ing
 
 PREFACE. V 
 
 examined records and considted the oldest needle 
 makers, I find the old man's testimony to be worthy 
 of credit. In following this interesting reseai'ch 
 through past ages, it is found the trade becomes 
 gradually smaller, and at last is obscured in cer- 
 tain families at Studley and Alcester. 
 I have traced this useful art between Studley, Al- 
 cester, Redditch, London, Long Crendon, Chester, 
 and other places,and have gathered up the fragments 
 of its history to compose this little work. The fii-si 
 Edition came in useful for the Reporters at the 
 Dublin Exhibition, the second Edition came out in 
 1 854, iu time for the opening of the Ciystal Palace, 
 at Sydenham, and which contains many facts not 
 recorded in the first, and in this present Edition 
 will be found new facts and interesting matter, 
 obtained from various sources although the author- 
 ities are not always stated; my object having been 
 to collect facts which may prove useful at some fu- 
 ture time. I hope the Reporters will find this 
 equally beneficial at the International Exhibition 
 of 1862. 
 
 MICHAEL T. MORRALL 
 
 7, High Street, Manchester,
 
 \7 9 
 
 Needles in tlieii* different 
 stages of manufactui-e, see 
 
 OFFICIAL DESCRIPTION, page 
 
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 I
 
 THE NEEDLE. 
 
 Chapter I. 
 High up in the Lebanon nestling amongst the mul- 
 bery trees, stands a Adllage called Eden, believed 
 by many people in the land, to be the first home of 
 Adam and Eve, where the first sewing was ever done, 
 when as we are informed "they sewed fig leaves toge- 
 ther to make themselves aprons. ' ' How true to Nature 
 is this, for do we not remember how in very early life; 
 we fastened together leaves for our adornment, with 
 thorns gathered fi-omthe May Bush, little thinking that 
 the same thing had been done ages before in Eden, and 
 that the most gorgeous dress originated in a fig leaf. 
 
 How simple then appears the origin of needles ; if as 
 is supposed they were first made out of thorns. Our 
 Sacred records state that Tubal Cain worked in iron and 
 brass ; and that one of the rivers running out of Eden 
 contained gold which was pronounced good: we may 
 infer that the gold was good for the making of useful and 
 ornamental articles ; and at that early date there may 
 have been needles made of gold, as also of iron or brass. 
 In Dr. Abbott's Museum, at Cairo, is a wood needle of 
 extremely old date, togetherwithapieceof sewing, taken 
 out of the tomb of an Egyptian lady. At the Dublin 
 Exhibition there was a collection of bone and bronze 
 needles, foimd in Ireland and Denmark. In the City 
 Museum London, there are some specimens of old Bri- 
 tish needles. In this country formerly, the upper clas- 
 ses used gold and silver needles, and some estates were 
 held by the annual payment of one or two of these 
 costly articles. 
 
 There is a custom observed yearly, at Queen's Col- 
 lege, Cambridge, when the Bursar gives to every mem- 
 ber a needle and thread, in remembrance of the founder, 
 whose name being Egglesfield, was deduced from two 
 French words, Aguille Fit : a needle and thread 
 
 Hemy Y, when Prince of "Wales, was a student in 
 this College, and "He came into liis father's presence 
 in a strange disguise, being in a garment of blue satin, 
 ■ftTOught fuU of eyelet holes, and at every eyelet the
 
 HISTORY A^'D DESCRIPTION 
 
 needle left hanging by the silk it -was Tn-oiiglit with." 
 The habit of a scholar was so very different from that 
 of a soldier in those days, that notliing coiild better 
 allay the kings suspicions than this silent declaration 
 of attachnientto literature andrennnciationof the sword. 
 {Speed's Chronicle.) 
 
 We know an ola Scotch woman who says in her 
 younger days she darned her stockings with a wood 
 needle. There are at this day Indian women, who sew 
 with needles of porcupine quill, and thread made of the 
 sinews of the deer. There are the fish-bone, that the 
 Greenlanders and the South Sea Islanders use ; the wo- 
 men of one race sitting in their snow burrows stitching 
 by the light of theii- oil lamps ; and the women of the 
 other race wearing while at work, a great palm leaf on 
 their heads for shade, and cooling themselves occasion- 
 ally by a SMom in the calm waters, within the coral 
 reef ; the Chinese claim to have made steel needles from 
 a remote period, we have seen some good needles that 
 were made in that Empire. A correspondent writing 
 from Shanghai, says, at Ningpo there is a needle man- 
 ufactory, where you may see men grinding long steel 
 bars to the necessary fineness, by rubbing them with 
 theii- hands upon a stone, then notcliing them at the 
 requii-ed lengths, breaking them off" and filing the points, 
 while little boys take up the wondrous tale and punch 
 the eye in each individual needle. 
 
 Chapter II. 
 
 The Spaniards are said to be the inventors of 
 steel needles in Eiu-ope, and to have taught the Ger- 
 mans the art of making them ; and it was from these 
 countries that we derived our supplies of steel needles, 
 until a sufficient quantity were made at home. Little 
 is known of the history of many of our useful arts be- 
 fore the Eeformation, the records of the Monasteries, 
 &c., having been destroyed, or dispersed at the disso- 
 lution of religious houses ; and it is only by the perse- 
 verance of the learned tailor Stowe, (who spent his life 
 in gathering up the scattered records,) that we have 
 any information ; and when Stowe became old and
 
 OF NEEDLE MLiKING. 3 
 
 poor, the king granted Mm ''Letters Patent," to beg 
 ii'omourloYirig subjects in the churches, for one year, 
 and so little were his labours appreciated, that the alms 
 were scarcely worth collecting, so the king graciously 
 allowed him to beg a little longer, hoping thereby he 
 might be better remunerated. 
 
 If we had the records of the Augustine Priory, at 
 Studley, they would perhaps enlighten us about needle 
 making in that parish, which is probably the original 
 place in England, where this branch of industry arose. 
 A general idea prevails, that needles have always been 
 made here, and the inhabitf.nts cannot conceive a time 
 when there were no needles made in their \illage. 
 
 The oldest needle making families are Eawlins and 
 Blimdell. The Morralls are descended from the for- 
 mer family, in the female line. There is a tradition 
 which is supported by the Roll of Battel Abbey, tliat 
 these fa>nilies originally came from Normandy ; A 
 needle manufacturer, on a visit at Studley, from Nor- 
 mandy, recognised the Morralls, there being a family 
 named, de Morall in the part he came from. Needles 
 W'cjre at an early period made in 'SVales ; vre have not 
 produced the date of its introduction, and can only 
 state that needles continued to be made at "Welsh Wen- 
 lock, until about the year 1790, the Welsh needle 
 makers have followed the trade into War^\ickshire. 
 
 The earliest record of needle making in London is in 
 the year 1545, during the reign of Henry YIIL, and the 
 most general idea is, that tliis useful branch of industry 
 was introduced by a Moor from Spain, who also, it is 
 said, about the year 1563, commenced the making of 
 his own wire, which gave him the pre-eminence over the 
 needle makers in the other parts of the kingdom, who 
 had to import theii's from Spain and Germany. 
 
 Stowe, in his chronicles states, that when the first 
 Q,ueen Mary reigned, needles were sold in Cheapside 
 and some other busy streets of London, and that they 
 were at that time made hja Spanish Negro, who refused 
 to disclose the secrets of his art. How long the Moor 
 enjoyed his exclusive privileges Stowe does not state. 
 Another author, taking up the tliread of the narrative,
 
 4 mSTOEYA^TD DESCMPTIOJSr 
 
 states that the art was lost at the NegTo's death, but was 
 soon after recoTered by one Elias Karuse, a Grerman, 
 and other skilled workmen who came over from France, 
 Flanders, and Germany, during^ the reign of Elizabeth, 
 and thus the trade was re-established in London, and 
 the sale of needles greatlyextendedthi'oughout England, 
 Wales, and Ireland ; the importation iDecoming every 
 year smaller, ujitU it entii-ely ceased, and exportation 
 commenced. It may be mentioned here, as a curious 
 incident, that soon after the execution of King Charles, 
 Cromwell' s government resolved to apprentice Elizabeth 
 Stuart, the second daughter of the late king, to a needle 
 maker ;* but from the time the princess was made ac- 
 quainted with the government's intentions, her spirits 
 became depressed, her health declined, and her demise 
 in 1650, prevented this cruel and tyrannical resolution 
 being carried into effect. 
 
 It appears that this b^ade was commenced at Long 
 Crendon, in Buckinghamshire, by one Christopher 
 Greening, who, with his wife andthi'ee children, settled 
 in that pretty village about the year 1650, having been 
 brought there by the iniiuence of a family named Da- 
 rner, who took an interest in that locality. Is'o mention 
 is made of the place where the Grreenings came from ; 
 perhaps they were Londoners, Long Crendon being near- 
 er the metropolis than to Studley ; and we may infer that 
 the London needle makers were a considerable body at 
 this time, from the fact of their being incorporated by 
 Charter only six years later, namely, on the tenth day of 
 November, one thousand six hundred and fifty-six, the 
 8th. of Charles II., (commonly called Cromwell's time.) 
 
 The trade at Long Crendon possesses some distinctive 
 characteristics, the smaller lands of needles used for 
 domestic work do not appear ever to have made much 
 ])rogress, the goods produced here being of a larger 
 description, namely, sail and ])acking needles, together 
 T\ith those used for netting and sui'gical purposes . The 
 
 *The author has not been able to ascertain the name of 
 this UP' die maker, norths place of his residence, anyptrson 
 funiishir.o- such information v.ill confer a favour.
 
 OF NEEDLE MA KTSG, 5 
 
 making of knitting pins and pillow lace forming part 
 of the staple trade of the village. The inhabitants of 
 this place, by frequent intermarriages, may be consid- 
 ered as one family ; they have a general family resem- 
 blance, being decidedly Danish in their appearance ; 
 they have about half-a-dozen family names, that of 
 Shrimpton being the most numerous. The people are 
 most of them musicians, which often leads to drinking 
 and neglect of business. This place presents no appar- 
 ent advantage for needle making, it being destitute of 
 water power, and it is fourteen miles from Aylesbury 
 which is the nearest Railway Station, the only means 
 of conveyance being a London waggon, reminding a 
 stranger of the picture in Dick Whittington. When 
 at Long Crendon, we dilligently enquii^ed respecting 
 the Darners and Greenings; those with whom we con- 
 versed said that no such names had ever existed in the 
 neighboui'hood. Having procured a local directory, we 
 find that the only information on this subject is, that 
 Lord Dormer is Lord of the Manor, and we are led to 
 conclude that the name is not correctly spelt in the old 
 volume afterwards referred to. The Dormers are Roman 
 Catholics; the family mostly resides in Warwickshire, 
 and the name of Greening may still be met with amongst 
 the needle makers of that county 
 
 The restoration of King Charles II. gave an impetus 
 to the needle trade; the court and people never dressing 
 more exti'avagantly than during this reign ; the king 
 granted a magnificent coat of arms to the needle makers 
 — the crest, an apple tree and serpent ; a shield of green 
 with three needles in aline, ducally crowned; support- 
 ers, a man on the right side and a woman on the left 
 — the woman holds a needle m her dexter hand. The 
 apple tree and serpent now forming the background of 
 the arms, or may be left out, the crest being a Moor's 
 head in profile, \\a'eathed about the temples and coped 
 at the shoulders, and in his ears a pearl. The heraldist, 
 who is seldom at a loss in searching out a genealogy 
 when it is necessary, has given the shield Adam and 
 Eve for supporters, and a motto, "They sewed fig leaves 
 together and made themselves aprons;" the inference
 
 6 HISTOBY A^D DESCEIPTIO?^ 
 
 of course being that needles must liave been employed 
 even at that period, and thus that it is a manufactiu-e 
 which commenced almost with man himself, and is 
 closely connected with the history of the human race, 
 wherever gathered or scattered on the face of the earth. 
 
 By the needle, we may infer, were made the simple 
 attu-e of the first martjT, Abel, andhis mui'derer, Cain, 
 he garments of righteous Xoah, and those that were 
 destroyed by theilood; Joseph's coat of many colours, 
 and his long fioT^-ing robes in which he made himself 
 known to his brethren in Egypt, where they went buy- 
 ing corn. The needle was no doubt used in forming the 
 dress of the infant Moses, in which he was presented 
 to Pharaoh's daughter ; by it was also made the shep- 
 herd's di-ess and the royal robes of David ; and at least, 
 the hem of the garment of the Holy One of Israel, for 
 which the Roman soldiers cast lots ^^dthout the gates 
 of Jerusalem. 
 
 Holy Scripture tells us about the veil of the Holy of 
 Holies ; and we read of the garments of the priests be- 
 ing beautifully embroidered. The mother of Sisera 
 says unto her maidens, "Take unto Sisera needle-work 
 of divers colours on both sides." So that in some shape 
 or other the use of the needle is very ancient, and no 
 doubt beguiled away the hours of the maids of Juda. 
 The Pagan Greeks esteemed the art of needle-vrork so 
 highly, that they attributed its invention to their fa- 
 vourite goddess Minerva. Homer constantly introdu- 
 ces his heroines so engaged. 
 
 The conventual institutions of the middle ages were 
 admirable schools for the various productions of the 
 needle — embroidery, tapestry, and the rest, Magnificent 
 garments worked by the needle, were presented to 
 Popes Leo III. and lY. ; and also beautiful Scriptiu-e 
 subjects were worked by the needle to adorn the var- 
 ious chapels in Eome. 
 
 The daughters of kings and nobles, although care- 
 fully educated in polite Literature and various accom- 
 plishments, were not considered suitable for "v^ives 
 unless they were good needle women. 
 
 The garments worn by Edward the Confessor, on
 
 OF IS^EEDLE MAKING. 7 
 
 state occasions, were embroidered by bis queen Elgi- 
 tba. There is now in the possession of tbe Fishmongers 
 Company in London, a splendid state pall, representing 
 Christ delivering the keys to Peter, the production of 
 this time. Coming dowTi to the time of Mary, Queen 
 of Scotland, we find that she was usually engaged in 
 sewing when she sat in coimcil vnth her ministers of 
 state ; and during her captivity at Hardwick Hall, 
 amused her hours with works of tapestry in order to 
 defend herself fi'om the chill and damp of her prison 
 walls. This injured queen has left behind her needle 
 work of great value and beauty. 
 
 In Queen Anne's time, the needle seems to have 
 fallen into disuse ; we find in ^'The Sjjectcdo)'^^ com- 
 menting on the idleness of the ladies of that time, 
 proposes certain rules to amend it ; — 
 
 1st. That no maid shall be allowed to receive the 
 addresses of her first lover, but in a suit of her own 
 embroidery. 
 
 2nd. That before every fresh domestic she shall 
 appear in a fresh stomacher. 
 
 3rd. That no one be married till she have all do- 
 mestic linen ready, and a mantle for the baby ready 
 stitched. 
 
 If similar rules were adopted by society 7iou', we 
 should have less slavery at the milliner's shops — in 
 other words, less fancy crocheting, more of the useful 
 and less useless labour in the houses of the middle 
 and higher classes. 
 
 "Look at my daughter's work," we have often heard 
 fond mothers exclaim, on the return of their daughter 
 from school. It is very pretty, but can she make her 
 own clothes, can she bake and cook, &c. ? If not it 
 is worse than pretty time misspent. 
 
 Guicardini ascribes the invention of tapestry to the 
 Flemings ; though it is believed that it was practised 
 by the Saracens long before its introduction into Eu- 
 rope. The fii'st manufactories were at Brussels, Ant- 
 werp, Lisle, and Valenciennes; the art was introduced 
 into France in the reign of Francis I. , who established 
 a manufactory at Fontainbleau ; and into England in
 
 O HISTORY AXD DESCRIPTION 
 
 the reign of James I. Tapestry hangings were, how- 
 ever, kno^Ti many years earlier, and had reached great 
 artistic perfection. 
 
 Berlin patterns, and work properly so called, were 
 not known till 1804, when the hrst pattern, on checked 
 paper, was published by a print-seller in Berlin. In. 
 1810, Madame Wittich, the wife of a print-seller, in 
 that city, and herself a celebrated workwoman, urged 
 her husband to engage in that branch of his business 
 with more spirit. They are worked on canvass, either 
 worsted or silk, with wool manufactured at G-otha, and 
 dyed at Berlin. They were inti'oduced into England 
 in 1831. Wilks, of Eegent Street, imported a large 
 quantity of patterns from Berlin; and from there, and 
 Paris, the best materials of silk, wool, occ; and, more- 
 over, engaged the best French workers to accompany 
 him to this countiy. To this individual we owe an art, 
 which gives amusement to so many of our ladies ; and 
 is sometimes the horror of theii- husbands and brothers. 
 
 The needle has handed down to us many an histor- 
 ical pictui-e, and iUusti-ated the life of many a saint ; 
 and no one in ancient times, surpassed the celebrated 
 Miss Linwood, whose collection of pictures most of us 
 have seen, and who worked "The Judgment of Cain," 
 after the age of seventy. 
 
 Oiu- beloved Queen is said to be a proficient in nee- 
 dle work. The needle is alike found to be the consoler 
 of cares in the palace and the cottage. It is the source 
 of enjoyment to thousands, and sustenance to tens of 
 thousands ; and is too often the companion o f squalid 
 misery — for instance the poor shii't makers, so well 
 described by Hood, in his "Song of the Shii-t," who 
 get 4|d. for a long day's labour ; and of those ^Tetched 
 creatures who toil for the "Jew slop sellers." There 
 are also the poor milliners and di'ess makers, who are 
 shut out fi'om the genial breeze and sunshine, and 
 almost the light of heaven, often for seven long days 
 in a week, for 12, 14, and 16 aye, and 18 hom-s 
 a day, in the season, up the three pair hack. Martyrs 
 indeed they are to pitiless poverty and miserable pride : 
 — the poor crcatui-es.
 
 OF ^TEEDLE MAKING. 9 
 
 <'We must have our dresses, and bonnets, and 
 mantles, and caps, &c., by nine o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, for the review and ball to morrow evening," said 
 several aristocratic ladies, as they bounced from a 
 splendid equipage into a milliner's shop in Eegent St., 
 the other day ; and it is now three o'clock." 
 
 "I doubt please your ladyship," said the milliner, 
 **that we shall not be able to get all of them done, as 
 we only received your ladyship's commands yesterday' ' 
 addi-essing the eldest of them. 
 
 "OhI lor!" exclaimed the quorum at once. 
 
 *'But indeed you must;" said the matron of the 
 group, or I shall icithdraw my patronage', for I cannot 
 bear to see my daughters in the ball dresses you sent 
 home last week ; therefore they must be done" 
 
 ''I shall, ladies, do my utmost to ensru-e them in 
 time," said the shopkeeper. 
 
 TVith a sad heart, even the milliner proceeds up 
 stairs to the poor over-worked in the three 2)air back, 
 for she knows aheady they can scarcely hold up; but 
 rents are so high, taxes so great, and the patronage of 
 Lady Gr. of such importance, that the cruel order must 
 be obeyed, and money must be made while the sun 
 shines. 
 
 "Gii'ls," said she, "Lady G.'s dresses and those for 
 the young ladies must be done to night, and the car- 
 riage dresses home by nine o'clock in the morning, for 
 the review in the Park : so you must again work all 
 night." 
 
 The poor pale-faced slaves: one sighs, tears start 
 into the eyes of another, a third murmm-s at the ukase, 
 a fourth is awakened by the order from a stupor in- 
 duced by previous nights and days of fatigue. 
 
 How the needle could tell of that sad hea\y night's 
 work, as it passed through the splendid materials 
 which were to adorn the persons of the ladies at that 
 gay festive and fashionable ball a few hours later. 
 
 But ^^hat matters those sighs, and tears, and miu'- 
 murings ; they would not be seen there ; no, but they 
 were seen somewhere else, and heard also, as truly as 
 the sighs and groans of the negro slaves.
 
 10 HESTOEY AXD DESCEIPTION 
 
 Chapter III. 
 
 Kow oiu' little wonder-worker must say a little about 
 his own orig'in. 
 
 Many of our most useful arts haye been introduced 
 into England by refugees fi'om the continent. Tbe 
 oldest families of needle makers are the Blimdells, 
 Eawlins,* Hewits, Alcocks, and Chatterleys. It 
 appears probable they were brought into this part 
 by the Thi-ogmorton family, who protected them 
 in time of persecution. The Connells of Eedditch 
 are from Limerick, where the family formerly car- 
 ried on an extensiye needle trade. There is also a 
 family of the name of Shi'impton from Long Crendon, 
 in the neighbourhood of Redditch ; but at yvhat time 
 needles were iii-st made in Alcester, and Studley, in 
 "Warwicksliii-e, we haye no information, neither is there 
 any name giyen as the inyentor or introducer of nee- 
 dle maldng into that locality. It is therefore probable 
 that needles haye been made in Y^ar^^•ickshil•e at a yery 
 remote period. Xormandy or Germany being the most 
 likely coimtries in which the inyention had its rise, and 
 that the introduction of the craft into London was mere- 
 ly in consequence of some improyements in this useful 
 branch of industry. 
 
 DESCEIPTIOX OF NEEDLE MAEXN'G rS' LO>"DOX. 
 FEOM .\2s" OLD yOLr:ME. 
 
 "Preyious to the year 1563, wii^, for making 
 needles, was imported from Spain and Germany ; but 
 from that time the needle makers made their own -^ire. 
 Haying dra^Ti the wii-e to its proper lineness, the 
 needle maker proceeded to cut it into pieces the length 
 of the needles required to be made, wliich he flattened 
 at one end on an an^-il, in order to form the head and 
 the eye ; then the wires are placed on a sheet of iron 
 over the lire to soften, after which the "v\ire is pierced 
 
 * Wm. the last of the Ravdius in this neighbom-hood, died 
 a few years ago.
 
 or NEEDLE MAKING 11 
 
 at the extreme end of the flat part on the anvil, a 
 sqnare punch is hammered half throngh, which process 
 is termed first eyeing. The needles are then laid on a 
 leaden block, to bring out with another punch the small 
 bit of steel remaining in the eye; the roughness caused 
 by punching is removed from the surface of the eye 
 by cutting a groove in the flat part of the wire on each 
 side of the needle ; the head is next filed round, anc' 
 the point formed by the same process. The needles 
 are then laid on an iron pan and placed on a charcoal 
 fire until they become red hot, when they are thrown 
 into a basin of cold water to harden. They are next 
 placed on an iron shovel and held over the fire, which 
 serves to temper them and take oiF their brittleness. 
 The process of hardening crooks them, so that they 
 have to undergo the operation of straightning, which is 
 done by placing each needle on a small anvil, and a 
 few gentle taps makes it perfectly straight. The next 
 process is scouring. To do this they take 12,000 nee- 
 dles and range them in small heaps against each other 
 on a piece of new buckram, sprinlded with emery dust 
 and oil of olives, and make up in a roll well bound at 
 each end. This roll was originally placed under the 
 feet of the worlanen, and scoured by moving the feet 
 backward and forward as he sat at work at the other 
 processes ; but now the roU is placed on the polishing 
 table and over it a thick plank loaded with stones, 
 which men work backward and forward for two whole 
 days, by which means they become bright. They are 
 then taken out and washed with hot water and soap, 
 and afterwards placed in a round box filled with bran, 
 mioistened a little, which is then suspended in the air 
 by a cord, and kept stirred until the bran and the 
 needles are both dry. The needles are afterwards sor- 
 ted, the poiats are all turned one way, and polished 
 with an emery stone turned with a wheel. Nothing 
 now remains to be done but to count them, five at a 
 time, and make them up in packets of twenty-five 
 needles in a paper for sale." Needles were begun and 
 finished by the makers at their own homes, unassisted 
 by mill power in those days; in London, at Long Cren-
 
 12 HISTOUT AXD DESCiaPTIOX 
 
 don in Biickingliamsliire ; at Alcester, and Studley, in 
 Warwickshire ; and there were but few needle makers 
 who were mostly very poor, although they sold their 
 needles for a high price; and needles were yeiy scarce 
 in some parts of England at this time. Humourous 
 tales are told of Tv'here the loss of the only needle in 
 th.e house has thrown the whole ^-illage into dismay. 
 Such an event is not at all likely to trouble us at the 
 present time ; we can obtain them in abundance, and 
 hence we find that they are lost, broken and destroyed 
 by dozens, without a moment's consideration, because 
 they are cheap ; and every improvement for abridging 
 labour in the needle making, has caused more orders 
 and employed a greater quantity of people, who are 
 better off, in every respect, than they were formerly. 
 EngKsb needles are now preferred in foreign countries; 
 and the Grerman manufacturers, especially imitate our 
 labels to meet the markets. Some very extensive fac- 
 tories in Prussia, never label with their own names, 
 but print on tbeii- own premises labels of English firms 
 as they are ordered. 
 
 Chapteb. IY. 
 
 About tbe year 1700, a mill worked by horses, was 
 established at Studley for pointing and scouring needles; 
 soon after, a mill of this kind was set up at Sambourne, 
 a yillage near Studley, superintended by a family 
 named Biddell, who taught Richard Hemming the art 
 of needle making, the founder of the celebrated firm of 
 Hemming and Sons, of Hedditch. The horse mills 
 were in the course of time superseded by John Alcock, 
 of Alcester, who fitted up parts of the old flour mills on 
 the River Arrow for pointing and scouring needles. 
 About 1750, some needle makers in this locality began 
 to aspire to the dignity of Manufacturers. Mackenzie 
 appears to have been the first to establish a needle 
 manufactory in 'SNTiitechapel, London ; but it cannot 
 be determined whether any needles were made through- 
 out at his establishment. It is quite certain that 
 Mackenzie was supplied with needles in an unfinished 
 state by Charles Rawlins, of Alcester, which were
 
 OF KEEDLE MAKIKO 13 
 
 finished in "WMtecliapel. Mackenzie introduced some 
 improvements in the finisliing of his needles, which 
 brought them into request; and Mackenzie's White- 
 chapel needles obtained a pre-eminence over all other 
 makes. The fame of those needles still lingers in the 
 mind of the old lady, when she hears the well laiown 
 cry of Whitechapel Needles, twenty-five for a penny. 
 Mackenzie, although famed, became embarrassed, 
 and was about to join the ConneUs of Limerick, who 
 were needle makers in that City. Mackenzie was 
 overtaken at Liverpool by his creditor, Chas. Rawlins, 
 to whom he gave up his tools in payment of his debt. 
 This was a disappointment to the Connells, and they 
 removed to Redditch, in the year 1780 ; when needles 
 ceased to be made in Ireland, Mackenzie returned 
 to London, and was supplied with needles by John 
 Shrimpton, of Long Crendon ; but the business of Ma- 
 ckenzie gradually declined — ^he could not compete with 
 the Alcester needle makers. One of the tools obtained 
 by Rawlins was called by Mackenzie his money-spin- 
 ner, which was used in burnishing the eyes of the 
 needles. It gave the eye a bright appearance, after 
 which they were called silver eyed. The information 
 Rawlins received from Mackenzie, enabled him to 
 make superior needles to any other maker ; he also 
 silvered the eyes for other manufacturers, for which 
 he received one shilling per thousand, or about_ten 
 shillings per hour. A person named Jas. "Waterhouse, 
 took Rawlins 6,000 needles to silver one dark night; 
 he then placed a ladder to the window were Rawlins 
 worked, and discovered the process of silvering the 
 eyes, which he made public. 
 
 Chapteb Y. 
 
 The Alcester needle makers, jealous of the fame of 
 the London needles, labelled their common qualities 
 with Whitechapel labels ; by this means, and the 
 greater facilities for making needles in Warwickshire, 
 needles soon ceased to be made in London. The Alces- 
 ter manufacturers began also to make sail and packing 
 needles, a branch of the trade almost exclusively
 
 14 HISTORY A2^D DESCRIPTION 
 
 confiued to Long Crendon. The Long Crendon needle 
 makers not being progressive, they looked with eon-- 
 tempt on what they called new fangied ways of making 
 needles, and continued to make them in the "good old 
 way," handed do^^Ti to them through a long line of 
 Greenings andShiimptons, fi-om old Christopher|Green- 
 ing ; and, as a matter of course, their ti-ade declined, 
 and the prosperous state of needle making in Wai'- 
 wickshire atti-acted the most energetic needle makers 
 from all parts, bringing with them useful contrivances 
 connected with their art, and thus this manufacture 
 became concentrated on the borders of the counties of 
 "War-v^ick and Worcester. The fii'st Long Crendon 
 needle makers who came into this locality settled at 
 Alcester, and were employed by William Mascoul, a 
 manufacturer in that town. About the year 1785, 
 Michael Morrall who had been taught the art by 
 his maternal imcle, Charles Kawlins, removed from 
 Alcester to Washford Mill, Studley, and entered into 
 partnership with his brother Abel, and John Archer, 
 their brother in law. 
 
 In 1790, two and a half millions of needles were 
 made per week in this district one million of which 
 were made by Morrall, Archer, and Morrall of WasIT- 
 ford Mill, Studley. Many inprovements were made 
 by this hi'm in the art of needle making. In 1793, 
 Michael Morrall made some experiments in di-illing 
 the eyes, which induced the firm to engage Charles 
 Davis, a watchmaker of Alcester, to di-ill needles for 
 them. They were introduced into the market for sale, 
 but were declined in consequence of the price being so 
 much higher than had been paid for them before the 
 eyes were drilled. Drilling was, therefore, discontin- 
 ued, the fii-m ha-sing sustained a considerable loss by 
 the experiment. !Many attempts were made by this 
 firm to induce the needle pointers to use respirators 
 to prevent the dust entering then* lungs, but the 
 workmen refused to use them ; the pointers' impression 
 evidently being, if he made use of any contrivance 
 which would lengthen his life, it would at the same 
 
 +i7np fi3T»f1 fn vAflnnp fViP nmmTnf nf T^no-ps Tip nmilfl ftarn.
 
 OF liTEEDLE MAKEN'G. 15 
 
 Thi-ee rewards have been given by the Society of 
 Arts, for the invention of machinery, as a substitute 
 for manual labour in pointing needles — one to Thomas 
 Wood of Berkhamstead, in 1811; one to George Prior 
 of Otley, in 1813, and one to Thos. Eoberts of Dum- 
 fries, in 1815. 
 
 Needle pointing may be thus described: — we will 
 suppose the workman to be seated in front of a grind- 
 stone revohing at a velocity of from tv\^o to three 
 thousand times per minute, he takes up from fift^^ to 
 a hundred wii'es, spreads them out so that they lie 
 singly (but close together,) wdth their ends perfectly 
 even, and then introduces them between the palms of 
 his hands, which are brought together so that the fin- 
 gers on one side point tovrards the ^Tist on the other, 
 the ends of the ^dres are then pressed upon the grind- 
 stone, and by a slight motion of the hands to and fro, 
 each ^ire is made to tm-n on its axis at the same time, 
 and thus they are all pointed perfectly and beautifully 
 at once, and with incredible rapidity. But whilst we 
 are looking on, admiring the brilliancy of the scintil- 
 lations produced by the friction, lighting up the squalid 
 face of the operative, and thinking it forms a scene 
 worthy of a Eembrandt, we are crossed by a reflection 
 upon the deadly character of the work, — those verj- 
 sparks which give a character to the scene, carry death 
 in their path, for fatal experience has told us that where 
 the workmen are daily exposed to the influence of the 
 dust produced by the grindstones, six or seven years 
 will be sufficient to terminate their existence. 
 
 It is horrible to think that any portion of oui' fellow 
 creatures should be subject to such an ordeal, but from 
 the high rate of remimeration offered, and the fact that 
 there are many who, fi^om loss of character, are not 
 enabled to obtain employment at other branches of the 
 business, no difficulty has hitherto been found in 
 obtaining a sufficient number of operatives to perform 
 the work. 
 
 Chapter YI. 
 
 About 1790, John Farr, a retired button maker,
 
 16 HTSTOP.T AXD DESCEITTTON 
 
 commenced making sail and packing needles at Alees- 
 ter, by means of dies fixed in a stamp, after tke man- 
 ner of making buttons. These kinds of needles -were 
 also cast in moulds by AVilliam Connor, at Broomsgrove. 
 At tMs time, also, James Cook commenced making 
 bodkins by stamps in Stndley. Tbis may be said to 
 be tbe introduction of the stamp for needle making: it 
 bo\reTer made but little progi-ess and the needle makers 
 had no idea of using the stamp for the smaller kinds 
 of needles untill about the year 1800, when a Birming- 
 ham factor, who happened to be on business at Wash- 
 ford Mill, expressed his surprise that stamps and presses 
 were not used in the needle making. The idea thus 
 thi'o-^Ti out was immediately acted upon, and a press 
 was invented and introduced in the above mill, and 
 the attempt made to form 100 needles at a time ; but 
 they could not succeed in making more than 35. This 
 process was very complicated, vnd. was discontinued in 
 consequence of the disappearance of Charles Davis, 
 the person who worked the machine. He was foimd 
 some time afterwards in Birmingham, making needles 
 by stamp and press, and retui-ned to Alcester and made 
 needles for Greorge Pardowe, of Coughton. 
 
 The fii'm of Morrall, Archer and MorraU, received 
 a large Russian order, and gave a bond to have it 
 ready at a certain time, but the slow process of filing 
 needles prevented them from ha^v-ing the order execu- 
 ted soon enough : the bond was consequently forfeited, 
 and the order countermanded. All orders for needles 
 from the same source have invariably, since then, been 
 sent to Germany instead of England. This firm sus- 
 tained considerable losses through Napoleon over-run- 
 ning Europe. Their trade had diminished because of 
 the war. The sword makers in Birmingham were 
 fully employed at this time, but the needle makers were 
 without work. This firm (the largest in the neighbour- 
 hood) stopped ; they were able to pay aU demands, but 
 could not keep on the business. Two firms at Redditch, 
 began by Richard Hemming and WiUiam Bartlett, 
 took most of the orders for needles; and these two 
 
 42-Mwtn T»rtt-r/\ T\/%/\v» o4* 4-V^ri Vii^o/1 rwP 4*ria 4~t*QAci IT* T? /:^rl/^■^'f /^ri
 
 OF NEEDLE MAKING. 17 
 
 In 1811, Abel and Micliael Morrall, sons of the 
 before-named M. Morrail, commenced stamping nee- 
 dles, and introduced the first eye into the needles by 
 means of the stamp. What is meant by the first eye 
 is an indenture half through the head of the needle. 
 Abel Morrall also contrived a punch to make the eye 
 of two needles at each pull of the press ; and several 
 others began to use the stamp and the press ; but so 
 strong is prejudice, however, that long after this plan 
 had been introduced, it was found necessary to remove 
 the regularity of appearance which needles so made 
 presented, to make them in fact, appear like hand-made 
 needles in order to sell them. 
 
 Needle making was introduced in Hathersage, in 
 1810, by Samuel Cocker, who had learned the art at 
 Bank Top, in Manchester, and also worked at Chester 
 for William Evans, a needle manufacturer in that City. 
 Cocker had learned the old system of needle making ; 
 he therefore, in 1812, engaged a person who had learned 
 needle making from the Morralls at Washford Mills, 
 named Robert Cook, to make needles by machinery. 
 The workpeople of course came from the same part as 
 R. Cook, so that they were continually leaving Hath- ■ 
 ersage, and returned to their old homes in Warwick- 
 shire. 
 
 R. Cook continued in Cocker's employment for nine 
 years. In 1821 he commenced for himself, and the 
 two firms carried on in Hathersage ; but of late years 
 the trade has gradually declined. 
 
 In 1823, Abel Morrall invented a small machine for 
 filing 100 needles at a time. This was kept private, 
 and answered well. It was communicated to James 
 Pardowe, of Studley, by William WoodaU, who worked 
 (previously to his engagement with James Pardowe) 
 for Abel Morrall. 
 
 James Pardowe was the first manufacturer who 
 introduced steam power into his mill for pointing an d 
 scouring needles, but water power is generally used 
 when it can be had. 
 
 The process of gilding the eyes of needles, was in-
 
 ■ 18 HISTOKY A^'D DESCRIPTIOX 
 
 troduced at a mamifaetory in Exeter Eo^, Bii'ming- 
 ham, by Scambler Brothers, assisted by two of Charles 
 Rawlins's sons ; the idea was taken from the gilt 
 button makers. Scambler obtained a patent for this 
 process, but the other makers set it aside thi'ough the 
 specihcation being wrongly laid for an improyement, 
 instead of an ornament, to the needles. This process 
 is now only used for common qualities for exportation 
 and labelled, "AMiiteehapelXeedles." 
 
 The following sad story of smart trading may cause 
 uncomfortable feelings in some quarters when brought 
 to recollection: — Do we not know of certain pm-chases, 
 made by certain simple Africans : the purchase money 
 on om* side being needles, — "TThitechapel Sharps," 
 duly gilded at the head — which were found after the 
 departure of the traders, to be without eyes I It is a 
 sad stoiy. The Redditch needle makers who prepare 
 gilt "AVhitechapel Sharps" for the African market, 
 say, that they dont belieye it ; that the needles were 
 of a coarse and ill-finished kind, but they were neyer 
 blind, yet the testimony is so sti'ong, and the effects 
 of the cheat were so serious in damaging oiu- commer- 
 cial character among the sayages, that we fear there 
 can haye been no mistake. If we laugh at such stories 
 it is with a weeping heart, for tricks like these done 
 in any corner where new races are found, are a graye 
 misfortime to the whole human race. 
 
 "We know that about thirty years ago, one firm 
 sent out needles without any filing, so as to render 
 them almost useless. 
 
 Chapter YII. 
 
 Abel Morrall had for a considerable timeentertain- 
 ed the idea that needles would pass thi-oiigh the work 
 with greater ease, if made without the grooye. He 
 made a small assortment of them, which were intro- 
 diiced into London by Edward ^lorrall, in 1 82o. These 
 needles were approyed of; but the difficulty of making 
 them preyented A. MorraU from proceeding with the 
 grooyeless needles at that time. A few grooyeless
 
 OF XEEDLE MAKING. 19 
 
 facturer of Stiidley ; but they did not take with the 
 public. 
 
 The drilled-eyed needles were soon after success- 
 fully brought out by William Grreen, of Astwood, who 
 had seen the drills formerly used at Washford Mill, 
 He was supplied with needles by Abel Morrall, and 
 sold them to the tailors and other users of needles, 
 who soon began to ask for the drill-eyed needles at 
 the needle shops ; and thus they came into general use. 
 Grreen drilled the square eyed needles with great care. 
 The reader should bear in mind that the eyes are not 
 made with a drill ; the punch makes the eye, and 
 the intention of di'illing is to clear the eye, and prevent 
 the cutting of the thread. Every mechanic knows that 
 the eye ^iJl be rough after the drill, and much trouble 
 is taken to clear the roughness out of the eye by some 
 manufacturers, and yet after all their tTouble needles 
 would be less liable to cut the thread if never di'illed 
 at all. This may perhaps appear strange to the reader ; 
 but let him examine a needle when magnihed, and he 
 will see the sharp edges caused by drilliug. It also 
 appears strange that needles were made Tvith square 
 eyes, yet such is the fact; and long after drilling came 
 into use, the needle makers continued to make the 
 eyes with square punches, and then drill them, Abel 
 Morrall was the first to use a round punch in making 
 the eye of the needle. 
 
 Needles are now drilled by children, in a careless 
 manner, as they have to drill a certain quantity per 
 day ; and, of course, they are more anxious about the 
 green fields and shady lanes than they are in drilling 
 needles — ''warranted to carry a large thread and not 
 to cut in the eye or di-ag at the head." 
 
 The method usually adopted for this piu-pose is 
 what is technically called "counter-sinking." It 
 amounts to tliis : a girl, seated in front of the small 
 lathe in which a drill is kept running at a high speed, 
 takes betw^een the forefinger and thumb of her left 
 hand from thirty to forty needles, vnth the heads 
 downwards, then by dexterously passing the edge of a 
 knife along the eyes, causes them all to lie one way ;
 
 20 HISTOEY AND DESCRIPTION 
 
 the eyes are now touclied one at a time upon tlie drills 
 by which the edges of the apertiu*e are removed — then 
 by a slight movement of the linger all the needles are 
 turned to present the other sides of the eyes, which 
 are treated in a similar manner and they are then left 
 as iinished. 
 
 Our reader will bear in mind that the object to be 
 attained is a perfectly smooth eye, one that shall be 
 free fi-om any biuT, in order that the thi-ead shall not 
 be injured ; but let the di-ill employed be as sharp and 
 perfect as it may, it will diive up a biuT before it, 
 which, in this case, will be left in the centre of the 
 eye, the worst position it could occupy. 
 
 About this time an improvement was inti'oduced by 
 Abner Mellen, of Redditch, which consisted of a pe- 
 culiar mode of di'essing buffs used in polishing needles. 
 This appears to be the only improvement made in the 
 art at Redditch, which is certainly cmious when we 
 consider its fame as a needle making place. The me- 
 chanical part of the trade has always been done out 
 of Eedditch. Xeedles were made there by hand, but 
 none were made bymachinery until about the year 1828. 
 
 The hand-workers prices were much reduced by the 
 machines. Each contended that his method was the 
 best ; and by the year 1830, some of the ''stampers" 
 as the machine-men were called, had removed to Red- 
 ditch. In the autimm of this year the hand-workers 
 came to the determination of breaking all the machines 
 in Redditch, which they carried into effect, and were 
 proceeding to Studley, when theii* leader was taken 
 into custody by Shailer, then constable of Studley. 
 Eight men were lodged in prison at Worcester, and 
 were sentenced by the Judge at the assizes to terms 
 varying from six to eighteen months' imprisonment. 
 The hand-workers saw it was hopeless to attempt to 
 stop the machines, so they came to the ^ise conclusion 
 to give up their old system, and learn to make needles 
 by machinery ; and the two leading firms in Redditch, 
 W. Hemming & Sons, and AV. Bartleet & Sons, pre- 
 vailed upon the master stampers to teach them, & as far 
 as possible, find them employment. The hand- workers
 
 OF NEEDLE MAKTN-G. 21 
 
 were vrell satisfied with tlie change : and thus came 
 to a conchision the long-disputed question between the 
 old and new systems of needle making. Till within 
 a few years one man in the district made needles 
 by hand This individual, William Bradbury, of 
 Studley, entered into an arrangement with a London 
 house before the introduction of machines, to make 
 needles for them as long as he should be able to work, 
 and to be kept by them in constant emplojTuent at a 
 stated price ; and the old firm foimd their old work- 
 man his work and wages up to the time of his death, 
 which happened suddenly in 1853. 
 
 Before the introduction of, or rather before the 
 making of needles by machinery generally, in 1824, 
 only five millions were made in this district per week, 
 while in 1847, n.fty millions were made in the same 
 time. 
 
 Many of the hand-workers who were too old to 
 learn the new way of making needles ; were now em- 
 ployed in soft straightening, a process common to both 
 ways of making them ; but this was not to last long, 
 for Abel MorraU invented a machine for straightening, 
 which would do more work in one hour than could be 
 done by hand in twelve. The invention was kept 
 private, and it is now superseded, as the process of 
 soft straightening is dispensed with. 
 
 Chliptee YIII. 
 
 Abel Morrall had been for several years endeavom*- 
 ing to make oval-eyed needles ; the great difficultj^ 
 being to prevent the eye from cutting the tlu-ead. 
 At length he invented a machine for burnishing the 
 eyes, and took out a patent for the same in 1839. 
 He then entered into an engagement with W. Bartleet 
 & Sons, to make oval-eyed needles for them, and 
 burnish them with his patent machine. The other 
 needle makers seeing it to be a great improvement, 
 entered into a league to disprove his right to the pa- 
 tent. It was the wish of the manufacturers, except 
 W. Hemming, to infringe on the patent ; but he pro- 
 tested against this mode of action, informing them
 
 22 HISTOEY AND DESCEIPTIOX 
 
 that Abel Morrall, had as great a right to the patent 
 as he had to any other property, until they proved to 
 the satisfaction of a eoiu't of law that he had no legal 
 claim to it ; and he, W. Hemming, would not infi-inge 
 on any man's rights, but would A^ithdraw from the 
 league immediately if any one infi'inged upon it. 
 He wished them rather to prove that A. Morrall had 
 no right to the patent. The case was accordingly 
 brought to trial — Heroming and others, v. the Queen 
 —and was decided in favoiu' of the patentees. The 
 eedle makers then cndeavoiu-ed to improve on the 
 patent, but did not succeed. They then obtained one 
 for certain parts disclaimed before the trial of Abel 
 Morrall's patent, which they termed Helix-eyed ne- 
 dles. 
 
 During the pending of tliis question, trade was veiy 
 bad in this district, and Abel Morrall had an offer 
 from France to go to that countiy, and superintend 
 some English needle makers abeady established there. 
 The French government offered to increase the duty 
 on English needles, which has since been done ; but 
 A. Morrall preferred staying in England, and making 
 an assortment of grooveless needles He sent his 
 nephew, Michael T. Morrall, in 1841, to introduce 
 them in Lancashii-e, Yorkshii-e, and other adjoining 
 ooimties. These needles were approved of in the north 
 of England, and in the spring of 1843, they were in- 
 troduced into London, but M. T. Morrall could not 
 induce the shopkeepers to tiy the needles, so he gave 
 a quantity to the men employed in the large tailors' 
 shops at the "West End," wliich soon brought them 
 into demand in the trimming shops of London ; from 
 which time Abel Morrall has received the general 
 support of the tailors in all parts of the United Iving- 
 dom. 
 
 According to the speciiication of Abel Morrall's 
 patent machine, for Superseding Drilling his needles 
 pass tlu'ough a process which pierces an eye nearly two 
 sizes larger than any other needle, and is constructed 
 on such a principle as to remove every minute angle, 
 biuT, and rough edge, and to clean smootlily away
 
 OF NEEDLE MAKING. 23 
 
 any other cutting particle that may have been left in 
 the eye of the needle, which no other operation has 
 hitherto been able to effect, thereby rendering it im- 
 possible to cut the thread. Morrall's patent method 
 of clearing the eye may be described as follows : — a 
 piece of tine steel wire is slightly roughened upon its 
 surface throughout its length, which after being hard- 
 ened and tempered, may be likened to a fine file ; this 
 wire is run through the eyes of about a hundred needles, 
 and its ends being made fast, the needles are then put 
 into a violent motion. The result is ob-sT.ous. The 
 metal inside the eyes is gradually worn away, until at 
 the end of about an hour and a half it has become as 
 smooth as a piece of glass ; sharp edges, burrs, rough- 
 ness of all kinds being entirely removed from its 
 vicinity; and when (the needles being nearly completed) 
 this operation is repeated, it leaves the inside of the 
 eye as bright as the exterior portion of the needle, 
 adding one more example to the many already existing 
 of the best results being obtained by the simplest 
 means. 
 
 Chaptee IX. 
 In 1840, Joseph Turner, a needle manufactui-er, of 
 Redditch, revived the practice of hardening needles 
 in oil instead of water, as the oil did not crook 
 them so much, and therefore the same labour in 
 straightening them was not required. Hardening is 
 effected by making the needles red hot in an oven, 
 and suddenly throwing them into a tub of cold water. 
 This sudden cooling of the steel makes it as brittle as 
 a piece of glass. The needles will now break almost 
 with a touch, indeed, in this condition, they would be 
 as useless as in the soft state; but by raising their tem- 
 perature to about 600 degrees, and by allowing them 
 to cool gradually, the required degree of elasticity is 
 given. The needles now require considerable force to 
 break them, and if bent should spring into a perfectly 
 straight line. The hardening and tempering processes 
 are very defective at the present time, and there is 
 ample scope for improvement in this department in the 
 construction of an apparatus for ascertaining the heat
 
 24 HISTORY AXD DESCRIPTIOX 
 
 of the fire instead of the hardener being left to liis 
 own judgement. The crooked needles are mostly 
 straightened by women at their own houses. The 
 straighteners assembled at Eedditeh, and passed res- 
 olutions to put down the process of hardening in oil. 
 Joseph Turner was several times mobbed at lledditoh, 
 and at length removed to Sti^atford-on-Avon, but 
 finding that town unsuitable for needle making, he 
 retui-ned to Redditch, when the public opinion had 
 cooled down. All the commoner qualities of needles 
 are now hardened in oil, but it is foimd not to answer 
 for better goods. The straightening of needles is a 
 very tedious process, and often very imperfectly per- 
 formed, the marks of the hammer being fi-equently 
 left on them. 
 
 It is a singular fact that, although so many needles 
 are hardened in oil, yet the straighteners all find 
 constant emplojTnent. 
 
 About this time Dr. Holland inti'oduced the fan- 
 blower in connexion with the grindstone, by the 
 proper application of which the dust is eftcctually 
 removed from the workshop to the exterior of the 
 building. Dr. Holland's fans soon came into use in 
 Sheflield and Hathersage ; but no attem^it was made 
 to inti-oduce them in the needle district. In 1842, A. 
 Morrall made an improvement in darning needles, by 
 making the eyes oval ; by this means they are much 
 easier to thi-ead, and from which they derive theu- 
 names, rh. "Egg-eyed Darners," the eyes are also 
 biu'ni'^hed by the patent process. 
 
 In 1844 the operative needle makers formed a 
 trades' union among themselves. In 1846 the needle 
 pointers "struck" for an advance of wages, although 
 thoy were earning from 2£ to as high as 6£ per week. 
 Only little sldU or labour is requii-ed in the process of 
 pointing ; but in consequence of the needles being 
 groimd on a dry stone, the dust is inhaled by the 
 pointer, and settles on his lungs, so that his life is 
 of short duration, seldom exceeding 35 years. 
 
 Their wages were mostly spent in intoxicating 
 liquors and other degrading practices, theii- maxim
 
 OF ^^:EDLE MAKING. 25 
 
 being *'a short life and a merry one." The pointers 
 were about the most degraded part of the population 
 of the district : only about one in six could write his 
 own name. Benevolent men had often sought to 
 refoiTu this state of things. The Society of Arts 
 offered a premium for the invention of an apparatus 
 which should prevent the entrance of the dust into the 
 lungs of the dry grinder. In 1821, J. H. Abraham 
 of Sheffield, sent to the society a model of a mouth 
 guard, which was approved of and found to answer 
 when used by the needle pointers ; but they refused to 
 use it for no other reason than the fear that it would 
 tend to reduce their wages. The poraters continued 
 to act thus tni the time of the before-mentioned strike 
 in 1846. The manufacturers refused to give the ad- 
 vance, and the money of the pointers was at length all 
 gone, so that the greatest distress prevailed amongst 
 them. 
 
 The masters now called a meeting to arrange the pri- 
 ces to be paid to the poraters; for some sorts of needles 
 the prices were advanced, and for others reduced. It 
 was also arranged that Abel Morrall should go to 
 Sheffield, to inspect the fans used by the griaders, 
 and bring back a report to the needle manufactiu"ers, 
 which was done, and the fans introduced into some of 
 the mills that were under the control of manufacturers. 
 This strike continued nearly twelve months, and the 
 pointing being one of the lirst processes, before the 
 strike was at an end almost all the needle makers were 
 out of work, and the manufacturers' stocks were sold off. 
 
 The pointers had not only to contend with the 
 manufacturers, but the public opinion was against 
 them ; the press also took up the subject, and the 
 pointers at last beginning to doubt the goodness of theu' 
 cause \^ished to return to their work again on the 
 terms proposed by the manufacturers. Although the 
 pointers began to use the fans with great reluctance, 
 they soon came to approve of the new system ; as be- 
 fore the introduction of these fans the workmen were 
 enveloped in dust, which prevented them having glass 
 ■wdndows in their part of the mill — the Light being ad-
 
 26 HISTOEY A^D DESCEIPTION 
 
 mitted by holes witli wooden lids over them. The fans 
 are constructed with a kind of funnel placed immedi- 
 ately behind the grindstone, which has a metal tube 
 extending to a box atthe bottom of the stone, in which 
 the fan revolves, thereby producing a draught of air 
 down the fimnel which takes off the particles of dust, 
 leaving none to ily about the room. 
 
 It may be said that this arrangement has been 
 generally employed about 12 or 14 years, and already 
 a markei change is evident in the needle pointers as 
 a body, they are no longer that dissipated class they 
 were, ' although much yet remains for improvement. 
 
 Some years previous to the pointers' strike, a 
 pointing machine was invented by one of the Cockers, 
 a wire manufacturer of Hathersage. The machine 
 could not compete -vsith the pointers in speed, there- 
 fore it was not used. At the time of the strike it 
 was sent to the needle manufacturers at Eedditch, 
 but was purchased by the pointers and broken. 
 
 A case of needles was sho~«Ti by Cocker & Son, of 
 Hathersage, and one by Cocker & Son, of Sheffield, at 
 the Great Exhibition of '51 ; but we are informed 
 that no needles are made in Sheffield at the present 
 time, and R. Cook, is the only needle maufacturer at 
 Hathersage. 
 
 Chapter X. 
 
 The question has often been asked in magazines, 
 why are needles made in Eedditch, when there is no 
 river nor any apparent cause likely to attract needle 
 making to that place l" This question may be answer- 
 ed by stating, that of late years public writers have 
 treated needle making too much as alledditch question, 
 taking it for granted that the art of needle making 
 took its rise in that place ; but it is not more than 40 
 or 50 years since Eedditch was only a third rate nee- 
 dle making village ; and in 1 700 a greater quantity of 
 needles were made by one lii'm in Studley, than were 
 produced by all the needle makers at Eedditch. 
 
 In 1700, Studley was the principal place for needle 
 making in that locality, and the trade is supposed to
 
 OP NEEBLE MAKTKG. 27 
 
 have taken its rise at Stndley : a very pretty village 
 and parish, in the County of War-wick ; it is 15 miles 
 Soiith of Birmingham, 4 North of Alcester, and only 
 3 mil^s from Redditch. Although there is no trace 
 of any river at Redditch, there is a small rapid stream, 
 called the river Arrow, which takes its rise at the 
 Lickey Hills, near Broomsgrove ; and when it enters^ 
 TVar-svdckshire it is a good sized and useful stream. 
 It passes through Studley and Alcester ; and turns a 
 goodly number of old mills used in grinding and 
 scorning needles. Emery stones are found in this 
 stream, which are ground to powder in the mills, and 
 used with oil and soft soap in scouring needles. 
 
 These are all the processes in needle making re- 
 quii'ing mill power. The wire and other necessaries 
 in the art can easily be procured in Birmingham; and 
 the Birmingham factors send off large quantities 
 of needles, with other goods to all parts of the 
 world. There may be other reasons why needles are 
 made there; as all attempts to make it into a staple 
 trade of any other district, have so far been unsuccess- 
 ful. It is very difficult to establish a needle manufac- 
 tory out of the needle district. As a general rule only 
 the worst workmen can be obtained, as the others will 
 not leave theii- own district, those who do, only remain 
 a short time ; so that the manufacturer cannot depend 
 upon liis workmen stopping with him. The people of' 
 other districts do not easily learn the art — ^those who 
 have tried to establish this branch of manufacture in 
 Birmingham, say, that the children do not learn so 
 soon to be useful in a needle manufactory as the 
 natives of Redditch or Studley ; therefore if the man- 
 ufactm-er succeeds in establishing himself no other 
 maniifacturer will foUow him, and in all probability 
 he T\dll not be able to make the best goods for a con- 
 siderable time. The workmen who went from the 
 needle disti-ict to France, returned long before the 
 expiration of the time for which they were engaged. 
 There is a needle manufactory at Chesterfield, estab- 
 lished by Henry Essex, of Studley, who is now 
 endeavouring to introduce needle making into the 
 state of New York.
 
 28 HISTOET AND DESCEIPTION 
 
 An attempt was made about ten years ago by a 
 London bouse, to establisb a needle manufactory at 
 Long Crendon ; but it bas recently removed to Red- 
 ditch. Xeedles bave been made at Long Crendon ever 
 fiince tbe time of Cromwell ; but tbe needles made in 
 tliis tillage were principally sail, packing, and surgeons' 
 needles, also netting needles and knitting pins. Tbis 
 txade was carried on in private bouses, in tbe same 
 way in wbicb needles were generally made in tbe 
 Seventeentb Century. Tbere is no river at Long 
 Crendon, and it is by no means well situated for needle 
 making. An attempt was once made in tbis ^-illage 
 to scour tbeir needles by wind mills, but it did not 
 answer. Fisb books were also made bere, and in tbe 
 neigbbourbood of Eedditcb, but it is quite a seperate 
 trade from needle making ; but tbey are often sold by 
 needle manufactui-ers. Steel crochet books, and all 
 kinds of needles for fancy work are made in tbis 
 locality, by tbe workmen v>'ho came from Long Cren- 
 don, and tbey supply tbe manufactiu-ers vriih them. 
 These goods are made by hand in private houses. 
 Abel Morrall was the first to make crochet hooks by 
 stamp and press, for which a London bouse unfaiiiy 
 obtained a patent. 
 
 Chapter XL 
 
 Most of tbe needle makers have agents in London, 
 and many of the London houses have tbeir own names 
 put on the needle labels ; but whatever be the names 
 or addresses, it is nearly certain the needles were 
 made in the neighboiu'bood of Redditch. Tbe inice 
 of needles varies from ninepence per thousand and 
 upwards. The common qualities are sold to Hawkers, 
 who impose upon the public by representing themselves 
 to be needle makers out of work. Xo respectable 
 manufacturer will put his name on needles sold by this 
 class, and tbe names on such labels are therefore 
 fictitious. The only way to procure good needles is 
 to go to some well Ioiotvti shop, and the best needles 
 should not be charged more than one shilling for a
 
 OF JfEEDLE MAKING. 29 
 
 hundred. There are in most toT^Tis shops noted for 
 needles, often kept by a venerable old lady, and 
 these are the best places for good needles, thimbles, 
 and other odds and ends ; those who encourage 
 hawkers will realise in their own experience, Mrs. 
 Harris' soliloquy while threading her needle : — 
 
 Oh ! dear a me, what needles ! well really I must saj- 
 All things are sadly altered, for the worse too, since my day; 
 The pins have neither heads nor points, the needles have 
 
 no eyes, 
 And there is ne'er a pair of scissors of the good old fash- 
 ioned size. 
 The very bodkins now are made in fine new fangled ways; 
 And the good old British thimble is a dream of other days; 
 I'm sure I often ponder with a kind of awful dread, 
 On those bold spinning jennies that go off on their own 
 
 head ; 
 Thcsepower-loomsand odd machines, those whizzing things 
 
 with wheels. 
 That evermore keep moving, besides one really feels 
 So superanuated like, and laid upon the shelf, 
 "When one sees a worsted stocking get up and knit itself I 
 
 MBS. »'OETO^^ 
 
 A stranger about to visit this district for the pur- 
 pose of seeing needles made, will do best to go free of 
 engagements with any manufactm-er, as the trade is 
 open to inspection throughout the needle making 
 villages. The visitor should proceed byrail to Eedditch, 
 thence to Alcester, and return to lledditch along the 
 river side. In addition to the old mills and the 
 beautiful scenery, there are antiquated mansions, ivj- 
 clad churches, studded here and there, which are sure 
 to interest and gratify the lover of the picturesque. 
 Studley MUl belongs to the well known firm of Abel 
 MorraU, which was the first to bring out the celebra- 
 ted grooveless and egg-eyed needles. Near to this 
 mill is the old Priory, with, its stately avenue of ehns 
 and the sociable rooks ; so often found near ancient 
 mansions. This Priory was founded by Lord Peter 
 de Studley, in the reign of Henry II. The old Manor 
 House is also near to it. Farther on is Washford
 
 30 HISTOEY AXD DESCRIPTION 
 
 Mill, formerly the manufactory oftlie celebrated Joliii 
 and Matthew Mills, who removed to Beoley MiU, and 
 were succeeded by Morrall, Archer, and MorraU, now 
 used by Millward & Sons, of Redditch, for pointing 
 and scouring their needles. And near to this mill 
 are Ahel MorraU' s needle works, and the house of 
 Wm. Bradbury, the last indi\idual engaged in needle 
 making by hand. Then pass over the old forge bridge, 
 from which a view of the river is very beautiful; near 
 to it is Ipsley Mill, and on that eminence is the Parish 
 Chm-ch and Ipsley Court, the Bii-th place of "Walter 
 Savage Landor. After leaving here, a pleasant walk 
 of a mile brings us to Redditch, which is delightfully 
 situated on a hill on the western borders of "Worces- 
 tershire. The manufacture of needles and fish-hooks is 
 carried on here to a great extent. Opinion seems 
 prevalent in the mind of the public, that needle 
 making is exclusively confined to Redditch — such is 
 not the case — the manufacture of needles is by no 
 means confined to that place, but, like the Potteries of 
 Staffordshire, it is the staple trade of a disti-ict, of 
 which Redditch may be called the capital and Studley 
 the centre. And there is scarcely a ^-illage within ten 
 miles that does not contribute a share of these useful 
 articles. The trade can be traced to and fro between 
 Alcester and Studley. The oldest firm in Redditch is 
 that of H. Millward & Sons ; it dates from the year 
 1730, but at first their needles where mostly made at 
 Studley. The next oldest firm in Redditch are the 
 Holyoakes & Gould. The Chillingworths can-ied on 
 an extensive needle trade at the old forge mill, near 
 Redditch. At Studley, in addition to those other-^-ise 
 mentioned, were the elder Charles Rawlins, Himiphi-ey 
 Hays, and William Hewitt. At Alcester, William 
 Archer, John and Joseph Scriven, and others. 
 
 Chapter XII. 
 
 Thus far have we given a concise history of the 
 progress of needle making up to the year 1851. We 
 will now say a little about the machinery of Abel 
 MoiTall.
 
 or NEEDLE MAKING. 31 
 
 On its becoming knowTi in the needle district that 
 A. Morrall intended sending his needle machinery 
 to the Exliibition, the needle makers remonstrated 
 strongly against it, fearing, as they said, that foreign- 
 ers would take the trade away from the country ; but 
 when they found him determined they offered him a 
 large sum of money to refrain. This he declined, and 
 still persisted in exhibiting his machinery. Thi'eats 
 were then held out that Ms property would be des- 
 troyed. Many letters passed between Abel Morrall 
 and the Executive Committee of the Great Exhibition; 
 the Committee being as anxious that needle maldng 
 should be shewn, as the needle makers were that it 
 should not ; yet up to the day before the opening of the 
 Exhibition, A. Morrall was undecided whether to 
 work his machinery or not, however, at last he con- 
 cluded to work it ; and from the opening to the close, 
 needle making attracted a large share of public 
 attention. A. Morrall exhibited needle makiiig as 
 done by hand, in addition to the machinery, 200, 000 
 needles were given away to visitors in the month of 
 May. Many of the nobility examined the machinery 
 — the Duke of Wellington and the Duchess of Gloces- 
 ter were frequent visitors, — a single needle was made 
 for the Prince of Wales at his own special request, 
 vdiich he took away. On the 16th. June, the Queen, 
 Prince Albert, and suite inspected the machinery. 
 The Queen examined each process, and was pleased 
 not only to express her satisfaction, but to accept 
 from the inventor specimens of needles in their differ- 
 ent stages of manufacture. The Queen asked many 
 questions respecting the progress of this useful art in 
 England — as to the nimiber of people employed before 
 machinerj^ was introduced — the quantity of needles 
 made per week, — the number of persons now employ- 
 ed, and needles made. The Queen was much pleased 
 to find that the introduction of machinery had caused 
 more emplojTuent for the people, and ordered the 
 questions and answers to be entered in a book. 
 
 The Duchess of Kent afterwards requested some 
 specimens the same as presented to the Queen.
 
 32 mSTOKY AND DESCEIPTION 
 
 Needle making was equally attractiye to all classes, 
 a great number of the working people of Lancasliire, 
 and Yorkslm-e brought home, at least, one needle 
 made at the Exhibition. 
 
 Chaptee XIII. 
 
 Abel Morrall's machinery is thus described in the 
 catalogue : — 
 
 "jIoekall, a., Studley Works, Warwickshire, 
 Inyentor and Manufacturer of machinery for maldng 
 needles, viz., a stamp for making the heads of needles; 
 a press, mth double punch, for making the eyes of two 
 needles at one time ; machinery for filing the burr oif 
 needles, caused by the stamping; a di-ill; and a model 
 of A. Morrall's patent machine, which burnishes the 
 eyes of 12,000 needles at one time, and it is computed 
 that a good workman may caiTy a hundred thousand 
 needles per day thi'ough this stage, whilst in that of 
 eyeing, in which formerly only 400 or 500 per hour 
 could be completed — 4,000 per hour are now easily 
 produced. In the filing, 500 an hour was under the 
 old system, a fair amount of work, now, 40,000 in 
 a day of ten hours is the estimated quantity, with the 
 additional advantage of true making. 
 
 OFFICIAL DESCEIPTIOX OF XEEDLE MAEXN'G. 
 SEE DIAGRAM, PAGE 1. 
 
 On the Case, — Class No. 22, — and it was honourably 
 mentioned. 
 
 The needle maker commences with the wire, which 
 has been previously prepared for him, in the form of 
 rolls about three feet in diameter— the size of the 
 wire of course depending upon the kind of needles to 
 be made. The workman takes two or three roUs 
 together (in aU three or foui- hundred wires) and vdth 
 a pair of large shears cuts thi'ough the whole. He 
 then continues to cut ofi" the -wires, so that each may 
 be long enough for two needles, — as in the emjraviny^ 
 Pac/e 1 
 
 The \\Tres being cut, have next to be straightened, 
 since each one possesses the same degree of ciu-vature
 
 OF NEEDLE MAKING. 33 
 
 as the roll from wliich it is cut. This is eifected 
 rapidly and perfectly, by placing from ten to fifteen 
 thousand into two iron rings, which stand parallel 
 with each other, and after having made the whole red 
 hot in an oven, rubbing the wires to and fro by a bar 
 of iron, which is partly curved, by which means each 
 wire is made to rotate upon its axis, and thus its 
 highest parts are pressed upon until it is broiight 
 to a straight line — the whole operation not lasting 
 more than two or three minutes. The wires are now 
 ready for pointing, bearing in mind that they are each 
 long enough for two needles, we can readily under- 
 stand that it will be necessary to point both ends, in 
 fact they are cut ofi' this length in a great measure for 
 the convenience of holding them. The grinder then 
 takes a mimber of these pieces in his hand, and points 
 them, by causing them to rotate on a dry grindstone. 
 They are now washed, then dried over a fire, and 
 placed singly between two dies, which flattens the 
 wire in the middle, and stamps the shapes of the heads 
 of two needles, with indentations for the eyes, and also 
 to mark the place of separation. The wires thus pre- 
 pared, are taken to a hand press, and by means of a 
 double pimch, both the eyes of the twin needles are 
 made at one time. The next process is gone through 
 by children : each child takes two wires in its hand, 
 on which it places about fifty double needles, to facil- 
 itate the process of filing, which is done by fastening 
 the wired needles down on a strip of wood, by means 
 of steel springs, worked by a treadle under the foot of 
 the workman, who moves a iile over the needles until 
 the projections caused by stamping are removed. 
 They are now turned and the other side is filed, then 
 placed in a kind of hand- vice, and the upper part of 
 the double needles are moved backwards and forwards 
 between the finger and thumb until they are broken 
 into two. The tops of the heads are then filed round, 
 and the roughness removed from the inside of the eye. 
 The needles are next hardened, by being ranged in 
 quantities on iron plates, and placed in a furnace until 
 they are red hot, when they are taken out and emptied
 
 34 HISTOEY AXD DESCEIPTIOX 
 
 into a copper, containing oil or water, and then tem- 
 pered by being placed over a slow fire and allowed to cool 
 gradually. The crooked needles are now straightened 
 by a small hammer, one at a time, on an anrU., they 
 are then gathered together, and mixed with oil, soft 
 soap, and emery powder, wrapped in loose canvas, and 
 placed in a kind of mangle worked by mill power, to 
 be scoured. They are often taken out, washed, and 
 redressed. This process takes about a week, and when 
 done the needles are washed in hot water, and dried in 
 saw dust. "Winnowing and sorting follow. They are 
 now spread out in a line on a piece of wood, the heads 
 projecting over one side, under which is placed a red 
 hot iron, to soften that part of the needle previous to 
 the eyes being bui-nished, to prevent them cutting the 
 thread. The points are then set and the needles polish- 
 ed, being held in the hand after the manner of pointing, 
 and rotating on a wheel covered ^vith prepared leather, 
 which is called a "BufiV They are now coiuited, 5 
 at a time, and wrapped in theu' well known papers, 
 labelled, and tied up, 10 packets of 25 needles, in a lot, 
 for sale. About 1 00 millions of needles are made every 
 week in the needle district, and the best qualities pass 
 thi'ough upwards of seventj' processes. One pound's 
 worth of steel is said to produce about 70 £ worth of 
 needles, and there are at the present time, 100 manu- 
 factm-ers, and 10,000 people dependant on needle ma- 
 king for theii' daily bread. 
 
 "It is somewhat remarkable that the modern needle 
 should have been produced in as primitive a manner 
 as it is possible to imagine, till -within the last 40 or 50 
 years, machinery, properly so called, not having been 
 introduced for its manufacture till \\dthin the period 
 named. Still more sti'ange is it that the whole of the 
 improvements made should have been eftected by the 
 Morralls, although so many are engaged in the trade." 
 Professor Crises Lecture on needle making. 
 
 Chapter XIY. 
 
 There were twelve exhibitors of needles, three from 
 Redditch, two fi'om Studley, one from Birmingham,
 
 OF ]o:edle maexn'g. SS' 
 
 two from Sheffield, one from Hathersage, one from 
 Long Crendon, and two from Aix~la Chapelle. Eight 
 medals were awarded for cases containing needles, fish- 
 hooks and other things : two exhibitors of fish-hooks 
 from Redditch, one of whom received a medal. One 
 case of needles from Studley honoiu-ably mentioned. 
 
 The folloTsdng needle maniifactm-ers' cases are placed 
 in the Exhibition Museum, Kensington Palace, London: 
 — Abel Morrall, Stiidley, William Bartleet & Son, and 
 Gr. Boulton & Son, Redditch. 
 
 Abel Morrall' s machine attracted considerable atten- 
 tion in the Polytechnic Institution, Regent Street, 
 London. The dies and punch used at the Exhibition, 
 together with samples of needles, are now placed in 
 the Museiun, at Peel Park, Salford. 
 
 "With respect to the award of medals for needles, 
 we may safely infer that the juries knew little of their 
 qualities, as each needle was fastened at the bottom of 
 the case, covered over with glass, and not opened by the 
 juiy. William Dyce, reporter to the jury of Class 22, 
 said in answer to a letter sent to him by A. Morrall, 
 that the jury of Class 22 did not award him a medal 
 for no other reason than that they considered liim a 
 greater exhibitor in class 6 ; and it was through some 
 mistake he had not a medal awarded for his needles, 
 and the juries will do aU they can in their report to 
 rectify this mistake, which was afterwards done by the 
 juiies, declaring Abel Morrall the inventor of the 
 grooveless needles : and those are the kind of needles 
 for which medals were awarded. 
 
 Abel Morrall addressed an appeal to the public, in 
 the Times of November 8th., 1851, which, up to the 
 present time, has not been controverted ; and although 
 he had not a medal, A. Morrall is satisfied with the 
 public's decision, and was therefore induced to become 
 an exhibitor at the Dublin Exhibition, and his ma- 
 chinery, being at full work duiing the whole time of 
 the Exhibition, formed one of the most attractive 
 inventions ; and daily contributed to the pleasure of 
 thousands fi'om aU parts. 
 
 On its return from Dublin it was shewn at an Ex -
 
 36 inSTOEY AXD DESCfilPTIOI?- 
 
 hibition at Oldham, wliere it was equally attractive. 
 Here it was that the first Egg Eyed sewing needles 
 were sold. 
 
 J". Eimmer & Son of Aleester, and H. Millward & 
 Sons, of Redditch, exMbited needles in glass eases, 
 at the United States Exhibition. Honourable men- 
 lion was made for Eimmer & Sons needles, and a 
 medal was awarded to Millward & Sons, for their gold 
 eyed grooveless needles. 
 
 ''It has, by this time, become pretty generally felt, 
 that the 'council medals' 'prize medals,' and 'honoura- 
 ble mentions,' of 1851, are commercially of very little 
 importance, however pleasant they may be to the 
 recipients. "We buy our knives of this cutler, and 
 our pianofortes of that maker, and our dinner plates 
 of this potter, not because these manufacturers hold 
 prize medals, but because the articles are good, and 
 worth the money paid for them." — Chamber's Journal. 
 
 When Abel Morrall returned home from the Exhi- 
 bition, after inspecting some improvements made in 
 his patent machine, for burnishing the eyes of needles, 
 he began to carry out some ideas he entertained with 
 respect to fluted sail needles, and elastic steel needles 
 for shoemaker's use, which, latter were intended to su- 
 persede bristles ; and they being at that time very high 
 inprice, shoemakers and dealers in bristles were anxious 
 for a substitute. In a short time all that were made 
 by A. Morrall were sold, but shoemakers did not find 
 them so pliable as bristles ; and were not disposed to 
 lose time in adapting themselves to the use of needles, 
 so long as they could obtain the more elastic bristle. 
 It is only by training boys to its use, that the needle 
 can be introduced into this business. Formerly bristles 
 were used by sadlers and harness makers, now needles 
 are used almost exclusively. 
 
 In 1852, the author suggested to Abel Morrall the 
 -desirability of making Egg Eyed Sewing Needles, ob- 
 ser\ing that they would be useful to persons of defeo- 
 tive sight. During the discussion as to making 
 them, a letter was received from Lady Lifford, asking 
 .if he had any sewing needles, with the Egg Eye ; aa
 
 or NEEDLE MAKING. 37 
 
 she was mucL. pleased with his egg eyed darners. 
 (Xo. 1, the Egg eyed darning needle, the eye of 
 which is thi-ee sizes larger than the common make No. 
 2. No. 3, the Egg ej^ed sewing needle used in the 
 Manchester, Liverpool, and other Schools for the 
 blind.*) In 1853, a few were made and sent out as 
 "samples ; and many letters of approval were received, 
 including one from the noble Lady just mentioned. 
 By the year 1855, they became generally known, and 
 they have nearly superseded the round eye : a marked 
 progress since the Great Exhibition of 1851. In 1856, 
 James Cottrill, of Studley, took out a patent for ma- 
 chinery, to supersede hand labour in filing needles and 
 other things. One is in constant use in Scotland, 
 :filing tubes at the Caledonian "Works. In 1857, he also 
 took out a patent for grooving or fluting the sides of 
 sail needles, in the form of a bayonet blade ; this how- 
 ever has made but little progress. The same person 
 obtained a third patent in 1861 , for an invention which 
 he calls a foiu* sided sail needle ; this in our opinion is 
 a decided improvement, and deserves the gratitude 
 and patronage of sail makers. James Cottrill justly 
 describes it thus : — "This needle is superior to all 
 others, in consequence of its having four equal sides 
 instead of three unequal sides; a smaller hole is made in 
 the canvas, allowing the thread to pass with facility, 
 the eye being in a right line with two of its ^^ Angles,''^ 
 In making, and mending tarpawling for covering lug- 
 gage trains, these needles are found very advan- 
 tageous, as they make smaller holes than the ordinary 
 needles. 
 
 Edward MorraU, (a nephew of A. M.) has invented 
 a most useful machine for the needle trade. "We are 
 not permitted to describe it until the patent is secured, 
 — it ■^dll be shewn at A. Morrall's stall, Class VI B., 
 in the International Exhibition. 
 
 Some years ago, A. Morrall began to use a Trade 
 Mark, which soon became noted and was therefore 
 greatly imitated ; it no longer distinguished his goods 
 :from others. In 1861, he had new labels engraved 
 and entered at Stationers' Hall, adapting the crest of 
 * See Diagram, page 1
 
 38 HISTOEY A^'D DESCEEPTIOX 
 
 the Morralls as Ids Trade Mark, namely, a Demi 
 Griffin. We perceive by the Eedditch newspaper 
 that a deputation of needle manufacturers is gone to 
 London to give evidence before a Committee of the 
 House of Commons, on the subject of Trade Marks. 
 The manufacturers are now about to use Trade Marks, 
 and it is desii-able that there should be a decided 
 difference between each. 
 
 CHAPTEr. XT. 
 Sewing machines have within a few years made 
 rapid advances in this country. It is already used for 
 producing articles greatly varying both in material 
 and form. To what extent they may ultimately affect 
 labour, either that of needle producers or users, re- 
 mains to be seen, — perhaps neither so much as might 
 be expected. The sewing machine is quite useless 
 without a good needle. If the inventors and makers 
 of sewing machines would adopt a uniformity of nee- 
 dles without a thick shoulder, it would be advan- 
 tageous to the makers and users of such needles. We 
 suggest to persons when ordering se^nng machine 
 needles, to be very explicit, and if possible, to send 
 a pattern. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR ORDERINa NEEDLES. 
 
 The length and substance of a needle should be 
 
 proportioned to the particular work on which it is used. 
 
 The Sharps are those usually called 'Se-^dng needles.' 
 
 Short Sharps are suited for rather coarser work. 
 
 This length of needle was first introduced by A. Mor-
 
 rail, for Tailors, but is often used for household work. 
 The Ground downs are also for tailors, and are shorter 
 than the Short Sharps. 
 
 The Betweens are still shorter than the Grround 
 downs, half a size thicker, and with stronger points ; 
 they are useful for strong sheetings, stay-making, and 
 shoe-binding. 
 
 The Blunts are half a size thicker and a size shorter 
 than Betweens, and have still stronger points, being 
 suited for the heaviest work, such as bed-ticks, shoe- 
 binding, stay-making &c. The larger sizes of Betu'eehs 
 and Blunts, do for sewing carpets, and the smaller for 
 binding hats. 
 
 The Straw are suited for millinery and light work, 
 and they are often made double length, for sewing fents 
 in Manchester. 
 
 The following is a form for ordering needles : — 
 Sharps 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 
 
 3 to 7 4 to 8 to 9 5 to 10 6 to 10 7 to 11 
 Short 123456789 10 
 Ground Downs 123456789 10 4 to 7 
 Betweens 123456789 10 
 Blunts 1 23 45 6789 10 
 Straw 123456789 10 
 Harness 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 
 Darners 1 23456 789 10 3to74to85to9 
 Double Long 16 17 18 2 3 4 5 6 7 &c 
 Steel Netting Needles 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 
 - — Rug ditto. 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 
 Stay Casing Needles 14 15 16 17 18" 19 20 
 Roimd Bodkins 14 15 16 17 18 in assorted g-rosses. 
 
 Sewing needles are sold by the thousand, and the 
 letter "m" is generally used In ordering needles thus, 
 
 Im, 
 Sharps, No. 7 ; the quantity should be placed over th« 
 number. Large needles are ordered by the gross. 
 
 Abel Morrall will send, on application, printed 
 forms for ordering all kinds of needles and thimbles. 
 
 It may be interesting and amusing to conclude with 
 ^'The Husband's Complaint," and the * 'Wife's An- 
 swer" respecting fancy work :—
 
 40 
 
 THE HUSBAND'S COMPLAINT. 
 
 I hate the name of German wool in all its colours bright; 
 Of chairs and stools in fancy work I hate the very sight ; 
 The shawls and slippers that I've seen, the ottomans and bagg, 
 Sooner than wear a stitch on me, I'd walk the streets in rags. 
 
 I've heard of wives too musical — too talkative — too quiet; 
 Of scolding and of gaming wives, and those too fend of riot, 
 But yet of all the errors known, which to the women fall; 
 For ever doing fancy work, I think exceeds them all. 
 
 The other day when I went home no dinner was for me, 
 I asked my wife the reason, she answered one, two, three ; 
 I told her I was hungry and stamped upon the floor, 
 She never even looked at me, but mutter* d one green more. 
 
 Of coiu'se she made me angry, — she didn't care for that, 
 But chatters while I talk to her, a white and then a black, 
 Seven green's and then a purple — just hold your tongue 
 
 my dear, 
 You really do annoy me so, I've made a wrong stitch here. 
 
 And as for conversation with the eternal frame, 
 
 I speak to her of fifty things she answers just the same ! 
 
 'Tis '-yes love, o red's and there a black, I quite agree with 
 
 you, 
 
 'Tve done this wrong, 7, 8, 9, 10, an orange, then a blue. 
 
 If any lady comes to tea, her bag ia first surveyed. 
 And if the pattern pleases her a copy there is made ; 
 She stares too at the gentlemen, and when I ask her why, 
 *Tis; *• my love, the pattern of his waiscoat struck my eye. 
 
 And if to walk I'm inclined ('tis seldom I go out,) 
 At every worsted shop she sees, oh how she stares about ; 
 And there 'tis, "Oh! I must go in, that pattern is so rare, 
 ''That group of flowers is just the thing I wanted for my chair 
 
 Besides, the things she makes are such touch-me not affaiis, 
 I dare not even use a screen — a stool — and as for chairs ! 
 'Twas only yesterday I put my youngest boy on one, 
 And tintil then, I never Imew my wife had such a tongue
 
 41 
 
 Alas for my dear 'little ones, they dare not move or speak: 
 'Tis, "Tom be quiet, put down that bag, Harriet wbere's 
 
 your feet ? 
 Maria standing on that stool, — it "was not made for use, 
 "Be silent all — three green's, one red. and then a puce. 
 
 Ah! the misery of a working wife, with fancy work run wild, 
 And hands that never do aught else for husband or for child; 
 Oui" clothes are rent and minus strings, my house is in disor- 
 
 der, 
 And all because my lady wife has taken to embroider. 
 
 I'll put my children out to school — I'll go across the sea, 
 My wife's so full of fancy work, I amsiu'e she won't missme; 
 E'en while I write she still keeps on her one, two, three and 
 
 four, 
 'Tis past all bearing, on my word I'll not endure it more. 
 
 THE WIFE'S AXSWER. 
 
 Well to be sure, I never did, why what a fuss you make, 
 I'H first explain myself, my dear, a little for yoiu* sake : 
 You seem to think this worsted work is all the ladies do, 
 A very great mistake of yours, so I'll enlighten you. 
 
 I need not count, for luckily, I'm filling up just now. 
 
 So listen, dear, and drive away those wrinkles from your 
 
 brow : — 
 When you are in your study, love, as still as any mouse. 
 You cannot think the lots of things I do about the house. 
 
 This morning after breakfast I heard the children spell, 
 
 And I'm teaching little Mary to gather and to fell ; 
 
 I paid my washing bill, and then I went to see 
 
 What contents in the larder for our dinner there might be. 
 
 I've finished Tommy's pinafore, and fed the green canary, 
 I've hemmed a duster, & I've made a bonnet cap for Mary 
 I've practised that concerto thing, you thought so very fine;; 
 I've written all the notes, as well to ask our friends to dine. 
 
 I'ye filledmy vaaes with fresh flowers, so fine they are & fall, 
 And after that — I will confess — I sorted out my wool ; 
 I've read that paper setting forth the sweet confiding trust, 
 Husbands should cherish for their wives, and think it yery 
 just.
 
 I've settled all my weeklj^ bills, and balanced my accounts, 
 With a little lot of German wool to make up the amounts, 
 Ah! now at last my reasoiiing eonviucrS you I know, 
 That pleasant smile — and yes, my love — it does becom* 
 you so ; 
 
 Besides, to tell the truth, all the worsted work 1 do, 
 My bag, my cushions k my chairs, art- in compliment to you, 
 I made a set of night-shirts, and did you not declare 
 That the rending of the calico was more than you could bear. 
 
 I knit some lambs wool stockings, and you kicked up such a 
 
 rout. 
 And ask'd how soon my ladj'ship was going to have the gout! 
 So now, my dear, entii'ply to please you I declare, 
 I've worked this splendid arabesque upon my vesper chair. 
 
 Two hearth-rugs and an ottoman, seven chairs, & after that 
 1 hope to do some groups of flowers, and a handsome car- 
 riage mat. 
 Enough of banter; yet believe one wordbefore we pai-t, — * 
 The rtst perhaps was fable; but this is from the heart, — 
 The loving wife, right cheerfully, obeys her husband still, 
 And will ever lay aside her frame to meet his lordly will. 
 
 HERALDIC DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Vert, three needles in fesse, each ducaUy crowned or. 
 
 CREST,— A Moor's head couped at the shoulders, 
 in profile, ppr. wreathed about the temples or. and gu. 
 vested round the shoulders or. in his ear a pearh 
 
 SUPPOETERS,— Dexter, a man; Sinister, a woman, 
 both ppr. each wreathed round the waist with leaves of 
 the last ; in the woman's hand a needle or. the suppor- 
 ters are commonly called Adam and Eve. 
 
 J. R. APPLETOX, F. S. 
 H. BETDroH-, Printer, 55, Faulkner-st., Manchester.
 
 m^^mmmmmmwmmmmm^ 
 
 TIME 
 
 m 
 
 ^^ --^^4r^^ 
 
 W 
 
 SUPEKIOR 
 
 AliOIcA, CASHMimi, 
 
 SILK, &c., 
 ON HEELS, FOR MENDING. M 
 
 "An Article brought out by a Manufacturer of 
 Macclesfitrld, rriust prove a great convenience to 
 our industrious wives and daughter?. The want 
 of handy mending material for mi/ Stockings, (so 
 long complained '.f,) is now supplied in all re- 
 quisite colours and qiialities by thtse Bugle 
 Mendings." 
 
 Supplied Wholesale by Leading Houses in London 
 and Manchester. Eetail by the Berlin Wool & 
 Smallware Depots throughout the Kingdom. 
 
 N.B.— Trade Mark, Tlie Bugle, Entered at 
 Stationers' Hall.
 
 M111)]L1 MAHlBi" AMMio 
 
 Michael Morhall is informed that a Family, 
 named Quant, have used his name to forward 
 their interests with Manufactui'ers & Merchants 
 in obtaining Situations of trust, without his 
 Authority. One of this Family held the Office 
 of Book-keeper at 7, High Street, Manchester. 
 He was discharged and a character refused by 
 Michael Morrall.
 
 Q> 5^ K & ^s. ^ ajNij ^ 
 
 MANUFACTUEEE OF 
 EXTI^A QUALITY 
 
 CROCHET COTTON. 
 
 SUPERIOR, 
 
 SEWING-THEEAD. 
 
 STOCKPORT. 
 
 L. ARDERN begs to intimate that 
 his well-known "Extra Quality Crochet 
 Cotton," may be had Wholesale from the 
 Principal Warehouses in London, Manchester, 
 &c., &c., and Retail from all first-class Haber- 
 ■dashers throughout the United Kingdom.
 
 GLENFIELD PATENT STARCH, 
 
 USED IX THE EOYAL LA.UXDEY, 
 And Pronounced by HEE MAJESTY'S LAUXDEESS, 
 
 TO BE 
 
 THE FINEST STARCH SHE EVER USED. 
 
 Sold by aU Chandlers, Grocers, &c,, «S:c. 
 WOTHERSPOON & CO., Glasgow and Loxdox. 
 
 BY HER MAJESTY'S ROYAL LETTERS PATENT. 
 
 ^^ ^^5 <^S 
 
 COTTPJLL'S '^m^ PATENT 
 
 FOUR-SIDED SAIL NEEDLE. 
 
 This Needle is superior to all others, in consequence of 
 its lia^ang FOUR EQUAL SIDES, instead of tin-ee un- 
 equal ones ; it makes a smaller hole in the canvas, and al- 
 lows the thread to pass with greater facility'-, the Eye be - 
 iug in a right line with two of its angles. 
 
 It has been fully tested by the fii'st Sail Makers in Liv- 
 ea^ool and Glasgow, and pronounced by them to bo *'in- 
 fimtely superior to all others as a Seaming Needle," for 
 tbe reasons above stated, admitting of a very bt autifal 
 finish to the work. 
 
 To the workman the superiority of this Needle cannot be 
 too well known,, .its tlat sides at once adapting them- 
 selves to the fingers, saving the workman much pain, and 
 it is not liable to jump. It is also invalualtle to Tent 
 Makers as no wet can ever follow this needle. 
 
 SOLD BY RESPECTABLE NEEDLE MANUFACTURERS & SHIP CHANDLERS 
 IN THE UNITED KINGDOM. 
 
 GENERAL 
 
 Ifo. 27, PICCADILLY, MAICHEgTER. 
 
 AU kinds of Scotcli and ¥elsli Knitted Hosiery.
 
 UNITED KINGDOIVI ALLIANCE 
 
 FOB THE 
 
 IE6ISLATIVE SUPPRESSION OF THE LIQUOR TRAFEIC. 
 
 PERMISSIVE BILL 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 Yoluntary ProMbition of tlie Lip-or Traffic. 
 
 It is not proposed by tMs measure to ask for an impe- 
 rial enactment there and then prohibiting the traffic in in- 
 toxicating liquors, but simply to secure a reference of the 
 question to public opiaion. Thus the law would not oper- 
 ate •vrithiii such districts as were not wishful to secure its 
 benefits, but would only take effect as to the lesults of a 
 direct expression of a preponderatiug public opinion. 
 
 Cf)c preamble of tljc Uill sets fotll) tljat.. 
 
 ""Whereas the common sale of intoxieatingliquors is a fruitful source 
 "of crime, immn-ality, pauperism, dlsea^e, insanity, aud premature 
 "death; \^hcr«by not only ihe individuals wh-ipive way t« drinkiag 
 '< habits are fjiunaedinto misery, but giifvous wrong is done to the per- 
 *'sons and proj erty of Her Majestj 's subjects nt large, and the puMic rateu 
 "endtaxe* are gr'atly aiigniented ; and whereas it is right and expedi- 
 ^'ent toC'T.ter uj onthe ratepayers of cities, boroughs, parishes, and 
 "township"! ibe po ver to prohibit sach common sale as* aforesaid — B© 
 " it therefore "uacted, &c. 
 
 The bill itself provides that, on application of any 
 district, the votes of the ratepayers shall be taken as to 
 the propriety of adopting the provisions of the act ; but 
 that a majority of at least two thirds of the votes taken 
 shall be necessary in order to decide that question in the 
 affirmative. 
 
 The act itself would when so adopted, prohibit within 
 that district all traffic in intoxicating liquor for common 
 purposes, but would leave in the hands of the justices the 
 power to appoint an agent who should sell for purposes 
 declared legal by the act. 
 
 "^Theirof.oal of the Grrnd Allisnre well deserves a careful consid- 
 eration--thf pLm ot erjabling r certain proporiion of the inhabitant* in 
 every di.-t'ict--a prop- rtion considerably ai> ve the commercial major- 
 ity-- to give the mwgistraies au honly for p'acing the district under a 
 general r^i rei-sive act, passed with such modifications as, according to 
 the act's privi>ioMs, maybe allowed in the peculiar local lirctimetanees.' 
 Lord Beotigham's Address at iha Social ^cience Congress, Glasgow. 
 
 United Kingdom Alliance Offices, 41, John Dalton-st., 
 Manchester, and 335, Strand, London.
 
 HYD ROPATHIO 
 
 MiATLOOK BANK, 
 
 ITear Matlock Bridge, Station, 
 
 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 CONDUCTED BY MESSES. DAVIS BROTHERS, 
 
 Formerly at Mr. Smedley's Establishment, 
 Terms:— Board, Lodging, and Baths, 2s. 6d. per day. 
 
 The mild system of Water Treatment is carried 
 out according to MR. SMEDLEY'S Books, which may 
 be had at each Establishment. 
 
 Matlock Bank can scarcely be surpassed for its 
 Health Restoring Qualities. Each Establishment com- 
 mands Fine Prospects, and at the same time are well shel- 
 tered fi'om the Xorth and East Winds. 
 
 SOUTH VIEW ESTABLISHMENT, 
 
 CONDUCTED BY MR. & MRS. RALPH DAVIS. 
 
 The Original Managers at Mr. Smedleys beg to 
 return their grateful thanks for the patronage they have 
 received and respectfully solicit a continuance of the same 
 
 PROSPECT ESTABLISHMEIT. 
 
 Mr. & Mrs. Thomas Davis return thanks for past 
 favors and beg to inform their fi-it-nds that since last sum- 
 mer they have greatly increased their accommodation by ad- 
 ding the adjoining premises. 
 
 ~TOER~HOTISE ESTABLISHMEIfT, 
 
 CONDUCTED BY MR. & MRS. GEORGE DaYIS, 
 who beg respectfully to announce to the Public that they 
 treat Patients on the same plans as practised at Mr. Smed- 
 ley'<?.
 
 WILLIAMS & TATLOE, 
 
 AND 
 
 T^^AREHOXJSElVtElSr, 
 54, Church Street, MANCHESTER: 
 
 N.B. Orders by Post well and Promptly Executed.. 
 
 HOMCEOPATHIC MEDICINE CHESTS & CASES, 
 from SIX SHILLINGS & upwards, Carriage Free. 
 HoMCEOPATHic GUIDE to the use of the Medicines 
 POST FEEE. HOMCEOPATHIC TOOTH POWDER, 
 One Shilling Per Box. ..J. BURY, Homoeopathic 
 Chemist, 9, KING STREET, MANCHESTER. 
 
 DOWDY'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 
 KIN^Gh ©TK.EET, STIR.EIlSJ'Gh. 
 
 Parties visiting this Hotel {to tvhich a large addition has 
 been made) will find in it a Home; the Parlours are Spa 
 cious, the Bedrooms Excellent. Established in > 841. 
 
 RS. MULLET'S Commercial Boarding House, 
 22, Broad-st., TJnioa-st., Aberdeen. 
 
 HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, ROCK SIDE HOUSE, 
 
 MATLOCK BANK, DEEBYSHIEE: 
 
 Terms, 21s. to 25/6 per week. Prospectuses on application. 
 
 Proprietor.— Mr. Charles Rowland. 
 
 ILLIAM lEWIN, Stationer, Printer, Engraver, 
 and Litbogi-aphpr, 5, Princess-st, MANCHESTEEi. 
 
 APARTMENTS, MATLOCK BANK. 
 ISXI^S. J. "V^AIjKEI^, 
 
 Eeturns thanks for past favours, and begs to inform her 
 friends that she has removed from Ash Cottage to 
 more convenient premises 
 
 No, 3, Rock Side Terrace. 
 
 w
 
 JONAS BROOK & BROTHERS, 
 
 MANUFACTTJUEES OF 
 
 SEWING COTTON, 
 
 MELTHAM MILLS, HUDDEUSFIELD. 
 
 FOR SEWING MACHINES, 
 
 Use Brook's Patent Glace for Upper Thread, and 
 Brook's Pri^e Six" Coid (soft) for Under Thread, in 200 
 or 500 yards, "White, Black, and Colors. 
 
 The Glace Thread -will be found an excellent sub- 
 stitute for Silk, and being made from the best quality of 
 Cotton, it retains its strength in -slashing, and is not in- 
 jured by the friction of the needle. 
 
 In the Inteexational Exhibition, Class 18, 
 Messrs. Brook & Bros, exhibit a very handsome case of 
 Cotton Threads, Crochet and Embroidering Cottons,. in 
 various processes of manufactiure. 
 
 They also exhibit in the Machinery department, 
 Class 7a, i)t motion, a Self-acting Sewing Cotton 
 "Winding Machine, a new and most interesting invention 
 securing the correct lengths, and performing an exti'aor- 
 dinary amount of excellent work. 
 
 20, Cannon Street, West, LONDON. 
 
 2, Port Street, MANCHESTER. 
 
 76, Castle Street, , BRISTOL. 
 
 25, Cochrane Street, GLASGOW. 
 
 117, BouLEYART de Sevastopol PARIS. 
 
 32, Vesey Street, NEW YORK. 
 
 4, Custom House Square, MONTREAL.
 
 DEMT & Co, DRAPERS, LEEDS, 
 
 Will on receipt of 13 PENNY STAMPS forward post free 
 in a neat morocco case, 100 of Abel Morrall's celebrated 
 Egg-eyed-Needles. "Warranted to carry a Large Thread, 
 not .to Cut in the Eye, nor Drag at the Head." 
 
 HEGREAT SECRET in obtaining GOOD TEA is to 
 purchase it at a proper Tea Establishment. The Best 
 Places in Manchester are the Three Tea Establishments of 
 WM. SATTERTHWAITE— the one on Piccadilly, 
 nearly opposite the Queen's Hotel; the other at the top of 
 Oldham Street, comer of Swan Street; and the third, 160, 
 Deansgate, M anchester. Wholesale buyers, who can pay 
 
 ready money, W'll receive every attention o" calling at he "^ holesale 
 Deparfmpnt, 53, Piccadilly. The best and purest COCOA is Satter- 
 thwai e'p Genuine 'J rinidad. 
 
 SAMUEL SMITH 
 
 Manufacturer by Patent Machinery of 
 
 ECCLESHILL, l^ear LEEDS. 
 
 THIIVJCBLES. 
 
 MOKRAT L'S Thimbles have l.-ig been highly approved of. They 
 are -tamped wiih a number which enal les cusomirs (o select the 
 Sizps they require, to complete their as>ortment; they also bear the 
 name of t!'e manufacturer. He stronaiy recommend* his Tailnrs' Best 
 Steel ThimMes ;TheLadie<' Best Vt hi e Metal Thimbles, ccmbine tbe 
 durability of st«- el with the liahtnes- a id other advantages cf Sterling 
 Silver, tueir biightness increases with the length of wear. 
 
 NEEDLES. 
 
 ABEL 'MORRALL'S Needles can he obtained in most towns in the 
 United Kingdom. The most convenient town or place to procure 
 them may be ascertained by writing to 
 
 miK&M.A'miLi HOBBiilLIL^^ 
 
 NEEDLE AND THIMBLE WAREHOUSE, 
 7, HIGH STREET, MANCHESTER. 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 WILLIAM SHIERS and Co., Manufactiu-ers and Im- 
 porters of Paper-hangings. An extensive stock of the 
 Newest designs. Oil Painttrs and Upholsterers Articles, 
 "Wholesale and Eetail and for Exportation. 
 3 and 5, DEANSGATE.
 
 S. nOTVLEY ^ & On., 
 
 Manufacturers & Agents of 
 
 SEWED AND PERFORATED EMBROIDERY, 
 
 jVCUSLIISrS, STAYS, &o., 
 
 72, Eensliaw Street, Stretford Uoad, Mancliester. 
 
 TEETH — EDWAhD mi ES^ the Cicy ol Lonrl n D -ntist, 15, 
 Liverpool ST., Bi-hopgate Ch'irch. cnnti ue? ihe use fth* Best 
 "Workmansh p in f-et- ot Ti eth and sarh as cannot bi'txcelled io 
 London. Amsrica, or Paris, adnptiufr it to pvry I'atcni pnd to all hi« 
 New Inventions, <fe Improvements, the result ff 3 ' ypurs actire prac-- 
 tiee, at charges as m .derate ^s pure materials admi;, some ofwhichare 
 less than ha fihose u«ua!ly ma'le, — Moreexplaine ii'i i^.dward Miles' 
 abridged v.'ork —Best Gdd Stoppinsr, Whiie,— 15 L-verrrool otreet. 
 
 WOTEEESPOON'S YICTOEIA LOZSN&ES. 
 
 GIVE SWEETNESS TO TKE TASTE m 
 
 FRAQUANCE TO THE BRKAIK. 
 
 Sold by Grocers. &e. in Pacliets at Id. avA upwards, 
 WOTHERSPOON & CU GLASGOW & LONDON, 
 
 TT 
 
 AEEOC-ATo -DAEBYSHIRE'S PEIYATE LODGINGS, 
 West Ciiff House, Cold Bath Road. 
 
 Victoria Commercial Tem.perance Hotel, 
 14, Eishopgate St., Leeds, 
 
 (Next door to trie Scarborough Hotel.) 
 Commercial Gentlemen and Visitors will finrJ every com- 
 fort and attention. J. ANDREW, Proprietor. 
 
 DERBY. 
 
 l^='Turn to the right as you leave the Railway Station, A 
 Five Minutes Walk will bring 3-ou to WALL'S 
 
 Temperance Hotel, 25, SiddeFs Road. 
 
 NEWCASTLE-UPOfNi-T-VNE: 
 
 Crown Temperance, Commercial, and Eamily, 
 
 BOAHDIlSTGh HOUSE. 
 
 Passengeis by walking up the steps facing the Central 
 Station, will reach the Hotel in One xMinute. 
 
 No 8, Clayton Street, (West.) 
 
 E. P. BELL, Proprietor. 
 
 W 
 
 illiam Hodgson, Photographic Artist, 
 Matlock Bridge, Derbyshire.
 
 TO MERCHANTS &c OTHERS, 
 
 TO BE LET, A Large and Commodioxis Stock Eoom, 
 also Xwo Smaller Ones, suitable for Offices, (witli fix- 
 tui'es,) either together or separately. Apply on the prem- 
 ises, 7, High Street, Manchester. 
 
 BRISTOL.. 
 FREDERIC GRI 
 
 GORY, 
 
 DRAPER, 37, WiNE STREET, 
 
 ABEL MORKALL's EGG-EYED NEEDLES. 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF WORSTEDS, YARNS, &c 
 
 Hosier & General Haberdasher, 
 
 ABEL MORRALL'S NEEDLES, THIMBLES, &c. 
 
 DEAN ST, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE- 
 
 With the IMPliOVED BURNISdED EGG-EYES, 
 Graduated HEADS, and patent four-square points in 
 all sizes. 
 
 Morrall's Wareliouse, 7. Higli Street, Eancliester.
 
 MRS. BROWN HILL'S COMMERCIAL DINING 
 ROOMS, 5, Dautzic-st., Withy Grove, Manchester* 
 Hot Joints, Pastry, &c. from 12 to 3 o'clock.— Tea & Coffee 
 on the shortest notice.— Dinners 6|d Pastiy 2d. extra. 
 
 IMPORTANT TO DRAPERS. 
 
 Shops supplied with every description of 
 
 FANCY BOXES FOR RIBBONS, TIES, GLOVES, &0. 
 
 AND 
 
 Grreen Clotli Boxes for Keeping Stock, 
 
 13, SUGAR LANE, MANCHESTER. 
 
 Estimates for Large or Small quantiiies t.ent to all parts of the Country, 
 
 To Manufactiirers, Chemists, Ironmongers, Wholesale 
 Grocers, Druggists, &c. 
 
 Clotli Luggage Secure Dii'ection Labels, 
 
 MADE BY 
 
 J. RU SHT" ON, 
 
 13, 8UGAH, LANE, MANCHESTER. 
 
 Send for Prices. Stationers Supplied. 
 
 ORIGINAL ^^^^^^^ PATENT 
 
 GROOVELESS EYED NEEDLES 
 
 Are preferred by Tail<r.<;, Fhre binders, Stay IMftkers, and even by 
 some Lndies to his Ci-lebrated E^.-Eyed Needles, and are nold by the 
 principal dealers who will forward 100 posi free for 13 stamps. 
 
 ABEL MORR.ll.L'S Harness and SaddJtrs' Needles 
 Quilting and Circular Needles, Egg Eyed Looping 
 Needles, Upholsterers' & other needles are soid RetaQ in 
 Manchester, by 
 
 EDWIN PIDGEON, 71, OLDHAM STREET, 
 
 W. H. WRIGHT, 27, OXFORD STREET, 
 
 S. CHADWICK 3, PETER STREET, DEANSGATE, 
 
 AND OTHERS.
 
 LONDON. 
 
 STARR'S TEAIPERANrF COMMPRCIAL HOTEL, 4, & 5, 
 Victofia-st, foo? of Holborn-hill, nenr the Mptioi^litan Railway 
 Stitiot.. — Terin«mnde/ate -viz :--Bi^'d fromls. 6fi, Bn-akfast o lea 
 frninl>.3d, A'tendancp^d.ier da> .---'1 E-TllNK tMALy.-- « ehave 
 great pl*-asure in re'-rimnif ndins Ptarr's Hutel, as being a perfectly < lean 
 Comfortablt', and well-conducted Kstablishm-nt, and intend making 
 it our ' Home" when in London." — Handel Cosi-ham, E~q. Bris ol; 
 Cyrus and Jnmes Clark, Esq<. Streer, 'Ihos Whittaker, Esq. Scarboro; 
 Alex Graham, Esq. London He el Glasgow; J. Bowme, Temprance 
 Hotel Oldht m Street. Ma' cheste..^— N.B — In order to secure accom- 
 odtttion it is advisable to write a few days in advance. 
 
 E. ALCOCK'S, 
 
 TEMPERANCE HOTEL & COMMERCIAL BOARDING HOUSE. 
 
 11, FISH STREET, MYTONGATE, 
 H XJ L Ij , 
 
 IN THE CllNlRE OF BUSINi-SS, 
 
 ?v>ar the Railway Station and Landing Place of the Packets, 
 Daily .News, Hull Advt-rti-er, Railway Tim:' lahles. 
 Correct Informatou risj ecting Pac ets, Coaches, and the Railways. 
 Cho] s, Steaks, Tea and ('> ffee at any hour. 
 
 UNICORN WORKS; REDDITCH, 
 
 Manufacturers of every description of Fish Hooks & Fish- 
 ing Tackle.— Specimens shewn in Class 22, Birmingham 
 
 Court at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. Merchants and 
 
 Dealers supplied on the B. st Terms. 
 
 GOODMAN'S mM^^^ ELASTIC STEEL 
 
 PATENT ^^^g^^ PINS 
 
 WITH f'INE POINIS^ IX WHITE, PURPLE & BLACK. 
 A Sample Packet sent free by Post for Eight Starops. 
 
 ROWLKY'S PatcntSHfetyNurse-y 1>RESSAND'-HAWL PINS. 
 A Choice assortment of ^EEDLE BOOKS, BOXE», &c. 
 
 Registered Crochet IIook.s, with coiled Handlts. 
 Ready Threaded Needle and Cotton Box. (Eegistered) 
 Needle Points for Cabinet Makers. 
 
 «EL MORR ALL'S NEEDLK WAKEHOUSE, 7, High Street, 
 Manchester. 
 
 A 
 
 M AXLOOK, 
 
 WANTED TWO PAIR .f SECOXD-HAND GATES, inwrought 
 iron, for a Coaury i^esidewce.... width between posts, 9orl0feet 
 apply 7, High-st., Manchester.
 
 WIEE k VENETIAN BLIND MA.KER, 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 YEOMAN & K N A P M A N , 
 
 Hosiers & Haberdashers, 
 The oldest Establishment in Liverpool for Abel Morrall's 
 
 Needles. Every description constantlv on hand. 
 Eenshaw House, 24, Eexsha^v Street, LIVERPOOL. 
 
 xomm EraBT & bqk, 
 
 GxiS CHA>TDELIEE MANUFACTURERS, 
 15, Piccadilly, Manchester. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES, CURIOSITIES, ORNAMENTS. - 
 
 JACKSON'S CEMENT sur- 
 
 passe* m neatness, in srrcngtli, 
 in cheapness, and retains it« 
 Tirtnes in all elimfctes. It haa 
 stood the te»t of time sind iH 
 all ouarters of the world-— 
 Sold b'j CheinisU, dc, and by 
 the Wholesale Houses.— A 
 Sample Bottle per Post, free for 
 14 Stamps, from the Proprietor, 
 StrarCgevags, Manchetttr. 
 
 J. KIRBY. 
 
 OF 
 
 Tiles, Steel, and Table KiiiYes, 
 
 MEABRO' WORKS, Near ROTHERHAM. 
 
 G^. ^W, KIHBY'S 
 
 COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 
 
 4, Market Street, 
 
 ^ ^ SHEFFIELD. 
 
 JOHN MAT HER, dealer in Derbyshire Spar Ornaments 
 Dob Lane, Matlock Bank. 
 
 M 
 
 ORRALL'S BROTLIERS, Coopers Sc Basket Makers, 
 8, Park Street, Leamington.
 
 
 AND 
 
 EilE SEATIIG MAMPACTOEY, 
 
 HANOVER WORKS, 
 RIGA STREET, 
 
 GUIDE TO HEALTH, 
 
 BY A. I. COPEII, M. D. 
 
 THE S2N1D, EDITION, 
 In its Original Simplicity. 
 
 HAVE NO MORE BLEEDING, BLISTERING, OR 
 poisoNiisrG^. 
 
 PRICE SIX SHILLINGS. 
 
 Sold by JOHN SYKE^, Wooldale, near Hudder*.fleld ; W. IBWIM 
 5, Prince»8-st., and M. Moirall^ 7, High-St., Mancheeter.
 
 UCSB LIBRARY y-5^^") 
 
 SPIXNERS AND MAXLTACTUREKS OF 
 
 2, 3, 6 & 9 CORD SEWING COTTON, 
 
 THE CELEBKATED 
 
 Cr0cljet aub Guipure €atim, 
 
 Crocliet, Guipure, Lacet, Tatting, Applique; & Embroidery "Work^ 
 
 EMBEOIDERT COTTON, MOEAYIAN COTTON, 
 Jflaurbljiitg i; piteit S^bnn;trs, 
 
 BRIDGE MILLS, 
 
 BLACKFRIARS, MANCHESTER.
 
 ABEL MOEEALL, 
 
 Inventeur 
 G. D. G. 
 
 Des aiguilles sans cannelure et a trou oval; 
 
 On garantit que ces aiguilles peuyent contenir un fil 
 assez gros, qu'elles ne le coupent pas a Fendi-oit du trou, 
 et que la tete passe a trayers le tissu sans jamais 
 I'endommager. 
 
 Les aiguilles a coudre et a broder de M. Moeball 
 faites du meilleur acier, dont la trempe est elastique, 
 sont d'un poll des j)lns pur; les trous ont la forme 
 ovale et sont faeilement enfiles meme par les personnes 
 d'un age ayance. Com me elles sont perforees et polies 
 en meme temps au moyen de la Macliine Breyetee de 
 M. Abel Moerall, qui a pour objet de remplacer 
 I'ancienne maniere de percer les trous; elles ne present- 
 nent consequemment aucune asperite et font qu'il est 
 impossible que les trous coupent le fil. 
 
 On pent voir fonotionner les principaux precedes 
 de cette fabrication dans la saUe destinee aux Macliines, 
 au Palais de Cristal, de Sydenham, et au Exposition 
 International, Classe 7, B., Londres. 
 
 ediantillous, en boites, de 1-25. 
 
 Maison de Commerce: 4, Gresham Street, City, vis- 
 a-vis Aldermanbury, Londres. Fabrique: Studley, 
 Comte de Warwick, Angleterre. Ces aiguilles se 
 vendent chez toiis les Marchands de Nouveautes, 
 Merciers, etc.
 
 M. 
 
 ^C SC'^^'^t'^N REGIONAL LoRARV FACiLiT 
 
 1^1^ 
 
 THIMBLES &c. 
 
 SS A SI W 3F ^ © ^ 1^ 3E H 3^, 
 
 INVENTOR OF THE 
 
 Patent &rooYeless, & Egg-Eyed Needles. 
 
 BLOND, 
 
 PENT, 
 
 STRAW, 
 
 STAY- CASING, 
 
 EMBROIDERY, 
 
 BEAD, 
 
 SHARPS. 
 
 GROUND-DOWNS, 
 
 BETWEENS, 
 
 BLUNTS, 
 
 RUG, 
 
 CHENILLE, 
 
 MATTRASS, 
 
 PACKING, 
 
 GLOVER'S, 
 
 BLEACHERS; 
 
 TAMBOUR-HOOKS, 
 
 BODKINS. 
 
 Cottrill's Patent Eoui' Square Sail Needles. 
 
 CROCHET HOOKS, &c. &.C., 
 WAREHOUSE 7, HIGH STREET, MANCHESTER, 
 Studley MiUs, Warwickshire. 
 
 The process of Needle Making shown at 
 tional Exhibition, and at the Crystal Pala( 
 
 teraa- 
 
 yi 
 
 n