"&' '':■■'■''■■' ':"'' '^'.'■■'PV' '■''■''■ ■ •' "■ - >'*'''■'- ' ■ ■ ^ ■j|&Si£i>P0<]§^Gr^ TEXTILE TRADE TERMS Report on Misleading Textile Trade Terms, Their Causes and Remedies. PREPARED BY NEW YORK UNIVERSITY BUREAU OF BUSINESS RESEARCH Lewis H. Haney, Director PRICE FIFTY CENTS NATIONAL VIGILANCE COMMITTEE Associated Advertising Clubs of the World 383 Madison Avenue, New York 3^ TEXTILE TRADE TERMS Report on Misleading Textile Trade Terms, Their Causes and Remedies. INTRODUCTION THE purpose of this study has been first, to de' termine whether or not the terms used in designating textile products are or are not misleading; second, to determine whether there is any difference in the meaning of textile terms as understood by the trade and by the final purchasers and consumers; third, to standardize certain terms which are at present used to designate fabrics manufactured out of different ma' terials, by finding out what consumers expect to obtain when asking for textiles under a certain name; and, fourth, to determine definitely by test to what extent certain trade names are misleading to the public. NEW YORK UNIVERSITY BUREAU OF BUSINESS RESEARCH Lewis H. Haney, Director NORRIS A. BRISCO. MERCHANDISING WILLIAM F. CORNELL, PLANT MANAGEMENT J. ANTON DE HAAS. FOREIGN TRADE ROLAND P. FALKNER. STATISTICS ELMER E. FERRIS. SALESMANSHIP LEE GALLOWAY. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CHARLES W. GERSTENBERG. FINANCE GEORGE B. HOTCHKISS. MARKETING JOHN T. MADDEN. ACCOUNTING JOSEPH W. ROE. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 90 Trinity Place, New York Telephone: Rector 0882 August 15, 1922 Director, National Vigilance Committee, 110 West 40th Street, New York, N. Y. On behalf of the New York University Bureau of Business Research, I desire to report that we have completed our study of Textile Trade Terms and hand you herewith our report on that subject. This work has occupied the Bureau during the course of the last nine months, the length of time required being due to the delay of several groups of women in re- turning questionnaires which were submitted to them. Mr. John M. Stratton has been of assistance in preparing and distributing the questionnaire. Permit me to say that the subject has aroused considerable interest among consumers in various parts of the country, as is manifested by the large proportion of replies that have been received to our questionnaire. I believe that the results are fairly representative, coming as- they do from the groups of women located in practically every section of the United States. Very truly yours Lewis H. Haney Director Textile Trade Terms Report on Misleading Textile Trade Terms, Their Causes and Remedies PREPARED BY New York University Bureau of Business Research The New York University Bureau of Business Research has completed for the National Vigilance Committee of the Associated Advertising Clubs of the World a comprehensive survey of the trade terms and names used in the textile industry. In this industry, as in many others, there appears to be much confusion in the meaning of the various terms used to designate different products; a confusion which particularly affects consumers although it exists throughout the trade. Buyers do not know from the name what the nature of the fabrics is and two or more fabrics of different weave or finish or content are frequently sold under the same name. This situation is serious as it not only encourages fraud, but also retards business by preventing sale by description and slows up turnover. The pre- vailing situation requires that the buyer should analyze samples of the various fabrics with little regard to what they are called and makes it neces- sary for dealers to run the risks arising from carry- ing a large number of similar fabrics bearing differ- ent names. In order to provide a basis for clarifying the situation it is important to know what the consumer thinks the different textile terms mean and to secure objective tests for determining what terms are apt to be misleading. It is not sufficient to reason deductively in such matters, for theories based ex- clusively upon abstract considerations will possibly be erroneous. A sure method is to go to the con- sumer and find out what is actually in his mind. This is what the Bureau has done. Briefly, the nature of the investigation here reported is as follows: NATURE OF THE INVESTIGATION A list of 100 textile trade names has been taken as representing all phases of textile terminology. This list covers various kinds of goods which are called silks, linens, woolens, ranging from Aledo Silk to Woolspun. This list has been supplemented by another containing the names of 33 fabrics which are not trade marked but which are general terms designating different weaves, finishes and kinds of material current in the trade, such as Alpaca, Bro- cade, Plush, Pongee, Voile, Worsted. This supple- mentary list is important for the reason that there appears to be great confusion in the mind of the consumer as to what these general terms indicate, which adds to the confusion arising from the num- erous trade names adopted by different companies, such as Irish Poplin, Woolnap and Pongeea. Most of the names included in the list of 100 are terms concerning which more or less misunderstand- ing has arisen in the past. That, however, is only incidental as the list is made up to represent all phases of trade-name building. The supplementary list of 33 fabrics has been chosen from among those which seemed to be most likely to cause confusion as to content. This list was incorporated in questionnaires, copies of which will be found in the appendix of this report. Those to whom the questionnaires were sent were merely asked to indicate what they believed to be the content of the various textile products and in addition were asked to name any textiles by whose names they had been misled in the past. These questionnaires were submitted to approxi- mately 1,000 women in all parts of the country, including women in country districts as well as city dwellers. Approximately 600 replies were received, the larger number of which came from the following states: Florida, Illinois, Massachusetts, Maine, Nebraska, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Texas and Washington. 54449G TEXTILE TRADE TERMS Valuable assistance in placing these questionnaires was given by women's clubs, the home economics departments of universities, and farm organizations. It is important to observe that the questionnaires were tabulated in several groups and that the re- sults secured from all groups were so similar that the weight of the conclusions to be drawn from them is greatly increased. It was thought that possibly the country women would show different results from the city women, but no significant difference appeared. Furthermore, a group of approximately 100 Columbia University women students gave re- sults which differ little from the others. It may thus be confidently stated that the results arrived at are not chance results or due to local conditions. Furthermore, there are no great differences concealed in the average percentages which will be reported herewith and the range of variation is small. The questionnaires addressed to women all over the country were supplemented by one sent to a number of department stores, a copy of which will be found in the appendix. While the response to this questionnaire was small, it is significant as showing that the present situation is unsatisfactory not only to consumer but also to retailer. In order to have a complete understanding of the situation the N.Y.U. Bureau has had a considerable number of samples of various textile fabrics an- alyzed, thus enabling it to know more certainly whether or not the understanding of the consumer as to the content of the several fabrics is correct.* In a considerable number of cases, however, reliance has been placed upon such sources as the Directory of Textile Merchandise, published by the Textile World and the findings of the Federal Trade Commission. The directory referred to con- tains a long list of fabrics known in the trade to be cotton piece goods although designated by various names which might lead one to think them to be silk, linen or wool. This directory is recognized as standard and while the Bureau assumes no responsi- bility for its classifications, it is believed that they are essentially correct. *This work was done by Mrs. Ella McGowan of Teachers College, ^ Columbia University, and the Bureau wishes to express its indebtedness to Mrs. McGowan. The general method of basing conclusions has been as follows: the questionnaires have been care- fully tabulated to ascertain how many women thought each fabric to" fall under one or more of the following heads: All Silk All Wool All Cotton All Linen Part Cotton Silk & Cotton Silk & Linen Artificial Silk Part Wool Wool & Cotton Part Linen Linen & Cotton Merely a finish or weave Don't know Silk & Wool The number of replies received varied with the different fabrics, ranging from about 350 up to over 500. From the total number of replies concerning each fabric the number of those who indicated that they did not have any idea as to the content or nature of the goods was subtracted, leaving as a balance those who felt able to express an opinion as to the content. This balance was taken as a basis for computing the percentages of those who thought it to contain one or another of the different materials. For example, 454 of the questionnaires contain replies on the term "Boulevard Velvet," and 262 placed the check mark in the "Don't know" column, leaving a balance for this fabric of 192, — which is below the average. On this balance were computed the percentages of those who thought that "Boulevard Velvet" is all silk, which was 44%, those who thought it part silk, etc. THE TEST OF "MISLEADING" In order to draw conclusions from the tabulations made from the questionnaires it is necessary to arrive at some standard for deciding what is meant by "misleading." Obviously, a term may be wholly misleading or only partly so. It may mislead some TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 5 people and not others. It may merely arouse a question in the mind of the prospective purchaser which could be answered by inquiry or investigation on his part, or it may actually mislead him in his purchases. Undoubtedly some purchasers do not exercise the minimum of judgment which may be assumed in human affairs. Accordingly the N.Y.U. Bureau has adopted the following test. It has taken a group of textile fabrics, the names of which are old and well established and well known to all women of experience. It finds that with great regularity these terms are erroneously reported by a little over 20% of the women who filled in questionnaires. Thus 20% stated the opinion that Canton Flannel contains some wool. Twenty-three per cent stated the same of Outing Flannel, and 20% thought that Silkateen contains some silk. This test is confirmed by the fact that 22% stated that Artificial Silk con- tains some silk and that such a term as "All But Linen" designates a fabric which contains some linen. These facts seem to warrant the conclusion that be- tween 20 and 23% must be allowed as a margin of error. Within this 23%, fall those who are abnor- mally ignorant of textiles and those — always foufld in a large group — who answer hastily or in caprice. In dealing with the following tables, therefore, the Bureau has confidently concluded that when a term is misunderstood by more than 23% it is seriously misleading, but that when it is misunderstood by a smaller percentage, its misleading character is less serious. TRADE NAMES WHICH TEST SHOWS ARE MISLEADING There is presented next a list (List I.) of those textile trade-names which are clearly and obviously misleading in the sense that one group having over 23% of the replies stated their contents to be one material, while another group also having over 23% held them to contain some other material. Regardless of the actual content of the fabrics mentioned in the following list, it may be positively stated that they are seriously misleading; for one or the other of the two groups which think it contains different materials must be wrong. This list shows that out of the 100 trade-names 40 are clearly and necessarily so misleading as to be a serious matter. The seriousness of the misleading character, however, differs rather widely, a few cases being on the border line. Thus, the term Union Linen, which was thought by exactly 23% to con- tain all linen, might have been omitted, while the term French Linon and Taffateen are very mis- leading in that about as many think them to con- tain some linen or some silk as those who know them to be of cotton. A generalization which applies to a large per- centage of the terms contained in the following list is that they involve a mixture of materials as is perhaps suggested in many of the names, — Silk Finished Poplin, Silk Lisle, Economy Silk, Woolene, etc. It is noteable that few of the terms in this list were thought by the women to be all or entirely composed of silk, wool, or linen, as the case may be. The confusion, in other words, comes from the fact that the terms suggest that they contain some part of the pure material which they indicate. Even a term like Wool Processed apparently suggests to the ultimate consumer that some wool must be con- tained, the replies in this case showing that while only 26% thought the material to be all wool, 70% thought it to contain some wool. Attention is again called to the fact that the conclusion as to the misleading character of the following terms does not depend upon the actual content of the fabrics. In some cases the majority of the replies correctly designate the content, and hi a considerable number of cases a plurality does so. The point is that in all cases, a group of over 23% of the women thought the fabric contained some- thing else. List II. contains those textile trade names con- tained in the Bureau's questionnaire which are misleading in the sense that over 23% of the women gave replies as to the content which are at variance with the actual content. These names in part dupli- cate those on the preceding list of misleading terms but a majority are in addition thereto. This fact means that in addition to the confusion arising from difference of opinion as to the content, there is a considerable group of terms concerning which a serious proportion of consumers are misled. Take "Australian Wool" for example: 95% of the women LIST I. Textile Trade Names Which Are Clearly Misleading, Regardless of Actual Content (Two groups of women have different opinions of contents, each group being over 23% of the total.) Terms in italics are doubly misleading — see List II. Per Cent naming one material Baronette Satin ...51 Domet Flannel 47% French Linon 54 India Linen _ 73 Irish Poplin 56 Linflax _ 42 Maisilk - _ 31 Near Linen 52 Nu Satin _ _ 40 Pongeen 39 Ramie Linene 56 Seco Silk „...38 Silkataff _ -.48 Silk Finished Poplin Silk Gingham Silkolette Silk Lisle Skinner's Satin Soisette Subsilk Suesenne Silk Surf Satin Taffateen Union Linen .. Velour Plush .. Velvetta 64 57 54 —47 50 —65 —43 ......36 —49 —45 23 —45 —50 Velveteen _ - 61 Woolnap * Per Cent naming different material 30 52% 44 26 29 33 45 44 43 45 35 25 37 33 39 29 50 32 26 40 51 45 45 73 38 30 36 75 (Some Wool) (Some Cotton) 55 29 59 Wool Processed 26 Wulsylk 57 Woolspun 27 Alajlax — 43 Aledo Silk 31 Boulevard Velvet 44 Clachan Serge _ - 69 Lingerie Silk 45 Pongeea _ 27 Suskana Silk '. 33 Tezzo Silk „..32 70 37** 65 28 36 37 24 37 40 26 28 •The manufacturer has recently discontinued the use of this term. "Cotton, Silk and Cotton, Wool and Cotton, Art silk. LIST II. Textile Trade Names Which Are Clearly Misleading on the Basis of Actual Content (A large proportion of women think they consist of material other than that usually found in them.) Consumer's opin- ion as to contents Actual Content Cotton Part Cotton Cotton a Part Cotton « << Cotton « Part Cotton a <« Cotton Part Cotton a M Cotton Artificial Silk Part Cotton Cotton « a Part Cotton Cotton n Part Cotton Cotton Part Cotton " Silk Part Cptton Artificial Silk Cotton & Linen* Cotton Per Cent Naming the Material A la flax Aledo Silk . . Amazon Silk American Taffeta Australian Wool Beauty Satin Boulevard Velvet Brazos Silk Clachan Serge Costume Velvet Deluxknit Silk Dew Kist Silk Feather Silk . French Serge Golden Fleece Killarney Linen Kumsi Kumsa Silk Lingerie Silk Maisilk Marvel Silk Nu-satin Palmer Linen Persian Fleece Pongeea Radio Silk Satin de Chine Scotch Linen Saxony Wool Suskana Silk Tezzo Silk . Tricolette Union Linen Velour Plush Venetian Satin Woolene Wool processed Woolspun Wulsylk •Content uncertain; most common usage is to designate a fabric composed partly of cotton and partly of linen. Linen 43% All - - n% All or Part Silk 31 M 67 (< « H (( 49 11 67 ti « (( (i 69 11 83 a <( II Wool 95 tl 99 u u u Silk 64 (( 86 (i a It « 44 (I 81 «< << (C u 46 (( 63 « <( II Silk 35 11 75 a « tl Wool 69 It 93 (i «< It u 52 a 70 » a tl « 65 tt 76 « a tl «< 48 «( 69 << <£ 11 Wool 73 U 93 tt « (( u 48 ll 71 (C «( (( Linen 86 (1 93 <( It M Silk 63 (( 75 (i tl II « 45 a 82 « It (t « 16 « 45 tt it H <« 40 CI 59 «< tt tt « 40 it 43 N tt tt Linen 46 It 69 II tt it Wool 65 tt 77 II tt it Silk 27 It 67 a It tl «i 66 (( 81 tt ft tl « 81 « 94 it It « Linen 78 H 84 « tt M Wool 95 (( 97 M it M Silk 33 tl 32 a 60 « tt M tt 47 it 61 (< tl C( Linen 23 tt 73 M tl it Silk 14 M 59 « tt tt a 51 II 69 M tt tt Wool 66 It 75 (( tt tt « 26 it 70 (( tl tt » 65 « 90 (( 11 it Silk 67 « tt 14 8 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS thought that such a fabric would be all wool and accordingly there was little difference of opinion or confusion arising from uncertainty. But the term may be seriously misleading because the fabric form- erly sold under that name contained some cotton. The larger part of the terms in the following list might or might not have been misleading in them- selves; the determining factor is the actual content of the goods, (a) The foregoing list contains 38 terms and it may, therefore, be concluded that in approximately 38% of the cases the women were seriously misled as to the actual content of the goods sold under the names submitted to them. The 16 terms which are in italics are those which are also contained in the first list and these may, therefore, be said to be doubly misleading. It will be noted, however, that in this part of the list the percentages which consider the goods to be all wool, linen or silk are very small which is due to the fact already pointed out that a majority of the terms in the first list are mixtures or are thought to be so, and their misleading character is largely due to that fact. In fact, the notable thing about the second list is that in all cases a large percentage of the consumers thought that the textile products designated were entirely composed of the material suggested by the name. Thus, 65% thought Dew Kist Silk was all silk, 81% thought Satin de Chine was all silk, 78% thought Scotch linen was all linen, 95% thought Saxony Wool was all wool. The corollary of this situation is the fact that the great majority of the terms in the second list con- tain a separate and unmodified use of the term which means a single pure material. A glance at the list shows that in nearly all cases the term ends with such words as wool, silk, linen, fleece, velvet and satin. These words evidently suggest to the con- sumer that the fabric is an all pure fabric containing nothing but the material designated. The Bureau's questionnaire contained the follow- ing question — "Name any term, not checked above, that has misled you." In response to this question the following textile terms were given, those in italics being mentioned more than once. LIST in. Additional misleading names mentioned by consumers. ♦A.B.C. Silk (b) ♦Carnation Linen *China Silk Damask Fibre Silk ♦French Serge ♦Flaxon ♦Irish Linen ♦Linenized Percales *Linen Damask Persian Fleece Pongeea ♦Scotch Serge ♦Silk Broadcloth Silk Lisle Tricollette Venetian Satin ♦Wash Silks ♦Wear Test Wool. The terms shown in italics are those which were mentioned by more than one woman. A number of these terms were listed in the ques- tionnaires, but those marked with an asterisk in the above list are in addition to those covered by the Bureau's list. Concerning these additional terms there is nothing to be said except that a number of women have stated that they have been misled thereby. Whether these are seriously misleading or not this investigation does not show. It is of interest, however, to note that a few of the terms specially mentioned in replies to question- naire are found in the two preceding lists of mislead- ing terms. These are Persian Fleece, Silk Lisle, Tricolette, Venetian Satin. In a subsequent list it will be found that "Damask" is also mentioned as a general term which is unsatisfactory. It may, there- fore, be said that there is some reason for considering these five terms as especially troublesome. Some comments volunteered by the women who filled in questionnaires are of interest, and are pre- (a) "With reference to the determination of the actual content the Bureau would here state that with the exception of the terms indicated by an asterisk, the content is that commonly reported in trade sources and no responsibility is assumed for the classification here given. There is a good reason, however, to believe that the content as designated is correct. (b) The manufacturer now designates this product as A. B.C. Silk and Cotton Fabric. TEXTILE TRADE TERMS sented as throwing light on the consumer's under- standing of textile terms. "Fabrics have been so misnamed that now the trade name gives little clue to actual composition." (Washington, D. C). "Most of the 'silks' and 'silkenes', etc. that are not silk and the linons and linenes which came from the cotton plant — and wooltex and woolettes that never saw a sheep are very misleading. Damask used to mean 'Linen' now it means anything. One wearies of constantly being led to think a thing is that which it is not." (Chevy Chase, Md.) "Artificial silk is often combined with real silk. Many of these terms I do not know." (Boston Mass.) s "I think if the manufacturers displayed more common sense by having fewer names for their materials, they would find the purchasing public more content." (Cambridge, Mass.) "I have a feeling of distrust for material with which I am not personally acquainted — a feeling that goods can't be judged by names or by adver- tisement." (Fort Wayne, Indiana.) "Personally, my common sense would tell me that some of those silk-sounding, linen-looking names aren't as silk or linen as they sound and look." "If, however, I were of a more confiding, trustful nature, I should expect everything containing the word 'linen' in its trade name to be all linen. The same thing goes with silk and wool." (St. Louis, Mo.) Two hundred questionnaires were sent to depart- ment stores. Only 23 replies were received. Of these replies, about one-half, or to be exact 12 stated that they had received no complaints from customers and had not themselves been misled. On the other hand, nearly one- third (7 replies) stated that complaints had been received from customers and 6 stated that they had themselves been misled by textile terms. The various terms mentioned by this dealer questionnaire as having been misleading are as follows: LIST IV. Misleading names reported by dealers. *A.B.C. Silk Art. Silk LIST IV. Continued Australian (as applied to blankets) Fibre Silk Kamura Silk Khaki Kool Pongee Seco Silk *Silk Broadcloth *Silko Tricolette Union Linen Woolnap Worsted The items in italics are mentioned by two or more dealers. Those marked with an asterisk are in addition to terms found in the Bureau's question- naire. A number of the terms given by the dealers appear in the lists of misleading terms as determined by the Bureau, thus corroborating the Bureau's findings. These are, Australian (as applied to blankets) Seco Silk Tricollette Union Linen Woolnap The attitude of many retail dealers is indicated in the following quotation from a letter written by the secretary of the National Retail Dry Goods Association: "There has been great activity in the production of other similar misleading names and that process goes on today almost unchecked. I assume the great benefit from an attempt such as you propose would be to bring about a condition under which such misleading terms would not be tolerated. From time to time the use of these misleading trade names gets a retailer into difficulty, as for example, the Federal Trade Commission recently has had several cases against Washington, D. C. retail stores for misleading advertising based upon the use of such trade names. It would certainly be a relief to have such a possibility removed." 10 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS TRADE NAMES WHICH ARE LESS THAN SERIOUSLY MISLEADING The Bureau finds that a large group of the terms contained in its questionnaire do not appear in themselves to be seriously misleading to consumers. The lists which are presented next are probably of equal importance with those which precede. Cer- tainly it is just as helpful toward arriving at a solution of the problem presented by misleading textile terms to know which ones are not seriously misleading as to know which ones are. The following statement shows two lists. The first column contains terms concerning which there was no serious difference of opinion, that is to say, not over 23% of the replies differed from those of the majority in expressing an opinion as to the content of the textiles designated. The second column con- tains a list of those terms in which over 50% of the replies were in agreement with the actual content of the product named. Consequently, it may be stated that the consumers were not seriously misled by these terms. Those terms which are mentioned in both lists are shown in italics. While by actual tests these terms do not mislead more than 23%, some on their face are inaccurate and can easily deceive the uninformed. It is a harm- ful corruption of human speech or language to take terms which clearly mean one thing and use them to indicate another thing which is an inferior substitute. LIST V. List of Textile Terms Found Not To Be Seriously Misleading No serious difference of opinion among consumers as to contents Ail-But Linen ♦(American Silk) Aeroplane linen Art. Silk Boudoir Silk Brilliant Satine Canton Flannel Canton Silk Economy Silk French Flannel (a) French linen Georgette silk Gloveskin Woolens India linen Italian silk Jap silk ♦(Lackawanna wool) Linene Linenized cretonnes Lin-N-like Linonette Marronette silk Mohcilque Outing flannel Satin Charmeuse ■ Shantung silk Silkaline (b) Silkateen Silkine Soisette (e) Taffeta plaid •These terms are uncertain as to classification, as the Bureau (a) French flannel is often part cotton. Sample analyzed by the (b) 24% thought some silk was contained. (c) 26% thought some silk was contained. Not over 23% misled on basis of actual content Ail-But Linen Aeroplane Linen Boudoir Silk Brilliant Satine Canton Flannel Canton Silk Economy Silk French flannel (a) Georgette silk Gloveskin Woolens India linen Italian silk Jap silk Khaki-kool Linene Linenized cretonnes Linflax suitings Lin-N-like Linonette Marronette silk Mohcilque Near linen Outing flannel Satin Charmeuse Shantung silk Silkaline Silkateen Silkine Soisette Taffeta plaid Tub silk is not advised as to the content of the fabrics. Bureau, however, was all wool. 12 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS It should first be noted that the first column con- tains terms which do not appear to be misleading for the reason that there is no important difference of opinion concerning the content of the fabric designated and does not contain any terms which are found to be actually misleading to the majority. That is, those terms in which a majority were misled on the basis of actual content are not included, even though there was substantial unanimity of opinion. This is obviously logical inasmuch as the purpose of the list is to present only terms which are not ser- iously misleading. Recent Federal Trade Commission rulings on Silk- aline and Art Silk show that the 23% margin adopted in this report, is conservative. A study of the lists will show that there are 31 terms concerning which there appears to be no serious confusion in the minds of consumers and 32 terms which did not actually mislead consumers. The italicized terms, which are those that appear in both lists, number 28, and it may be concluded with especial confidence that these 28 terms are only mildly misleading. The 8 terms which appear only in one of the lists are doubtful and may be more or less seriously misleading.* It is important to inquire the reasons why these 28 terms were not misleading to over 500 women who replied to the questionnaire. Part of the terms did not mislead for the reason that long usage has established in the public mind an understanding of the true content of the fabrics designated. Among these terms are: Canton Flannel, India Linen, Outing Flannel, Silkaline, and possibly French Linen. In some cases extensive advertising or other publicity which included a true statement of con- tents, appears to have helped avoid deception. Such terms may include "Irish Poplin," "Economy Silk," and "Linene." The term Seco Silk (now dis- continued by the manufacturer) was found to be only slightly misleading, for the same reason. Such cases do not appear to give a precedent for the adoption of similar terms in the future. The fact that persistent advertising and explanation has ♦(American Silk, Art Silk, Boudoir Silk, Khaki-kool Silk, Lackawanna Wool, Linflax suitings, Near linen, Tub Silk.) been necessary to establish in the minds of con- sumers the true content of the fabrics, is, in itself, proof that the terms are inherently misleading. In other cases the non-misleading character of the term is due to the fact that it gives sufficient indica- tion of the true content of the fabric to which it is applied. Such terms are: AH -but-Linen, Brilliant Satine, Linene, Linenized Cretonnes, Lin-N-Like, Silkine, etc. The means and degree of indication in such cases as the foregoing, differ. ( 1 ) A fabric which is all- pure silk, wool, or linen, has its content correctly indicated by calling it "silk;" "wool," or "linen" as the case may be. Thus, "Italian Silk," "Gloveskin Woolens," and "Aeroplane Linen" are not mislead- ing, barring fraudulent use. (2) Terms which ob- viously imply mere resemblance to silk, wool, or linen, may not be misleading. This is found to be true of "Lin-N-Like" and "Linenized Cretonne." (3) Some terms are not misleading for the reason that they indicate by their form that they are of cotton. Such terms are "Brilliant Satine," "Linonette," "Silkine," and "Silkatine." It seems reasonably clear that the "ine" or "een" type of ending, when added to the work "silk," "satin" or "velvet," is recognized by a majority of persons as indicating a cotton fabric. In the case of linen and wool, this is not so clear. The difference would appear to be due to the long use of "Sateen," "Velveteen" and "Silkaline" to designate cotton fabrics. In connection with the analysis of non-misleading terms, the Bureau finds that certain trade terms are only misleading as to a part of the contents of the fabric designated. This fact is of interest, for it shows degrees in the misleading effect of terms, and throws light on the causes of deception. These partially misleading terms are shown in the following list, those in italics not being seriously misleading. Terms Misleading Only as to part of Content (Under 10 persons saying all silk, wool, etc.) Art. Silk Linenized Cretonnes Linonette Near Linen Silkateen Silk Finished Poplin Silkaline TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 13 Silkine Silkolette Linene Lin-N-Like Mohcilque Subsilk Velvetta Velveteen Wulsylk The Consumer's Understanding of the General Trade Terms Commonly Used to Designate Textiles The foregoing lists of names are all taken from the Bureau's questionnaire which purported to con- tain trade names of the type which are commonly trade marked. With but few exceptions they are brands, and the essential feature is not a general trade designation of some weave or finish. The following list includes only the more general trade terms which designate some weave or finish or material which any one is free to use, such, for example, as Alpaca, Batiste, Brocade, Satin, etc. The significance of this second group of terms lies in the fact that there is great confusion especially among consumers, as to what various terms mean. It is thought to be a valuable service to determine once for all what the average woman thinks such materials as satin, serge and flannel are, and it is hoped that such a determination will help lay the basis for a more standardized trade terminology. Many of these terms have been in use for a long time and it may not be possible to alter trade custom to the extent of abolishing, changing or standardizing them. By squarely confronting the facts, however, it is possible that by the use of modifying terms the existing confusion may be reduced to a minimum. The Bureau would emphasize the fact that while through long usage a general understanding of the meaning may be established, the adoption of new similar terms would be misleading. Investigation shows that young women who have not had experi- ence in buying or using textiles often do not know the true content even of "Canton Flannel," "India Linen," etc. While therefore, it may be practically expedient to retain those terms, the true significance of which has become established, the adoption of similar terms would be misleading. It is recommended that such terms be used in advertising only when accompanied by a word designating actual content. An examination of the following table shows that serious confusion exists with regard to a number of the terms contained. "Silk Lisle," which has al- ready been mentioned among the misleading trade terms, is thought to contain silk by over 50% of those who replied. In the case of "Taffateen" 42% thought it was a silk and cotton fabric and 3% more thought it was silk and wool; consequently the total of 45% thought it contained some silk. Tussah, which appears to be a fabric composed of wild silk and cotton, was thought to be of silk by 55%. While 43% thought crepe to be all cotton, 18% thought it all or part silk. LIST VI. List of Basic Textile Trade Terms Showing What Materials Consumers Think They Indicate Chief Material Per Cent Reported So Reporting Alpaca All Wool S2fo Batiste All Cotton 80 Brocade .All Silk 35 Canton Flannel All Cotton . ..73 Chiffon All Silk 76 Crepe All Cotton 43 Crepe De Chine All Silk 84 Damask All Linen 62 Duvetyn All Wool 33 Fibre Silk Artificial Silk 69 Flannel All Wool 72 Foulard All Silk 65 Georgette Crepe All Silk 67 Linene All Cotton 61 Outing Flannel All Cotton 77 Plush Silk & Cotton 45 Pongee All Silk 66 Poplin All Cotton 21 Sateen All Cotton 75 Satin All Silk 72 Serge All Wool 75 Shantung silk All Silk 66 Silk Lisle Silk & Cotton 57 Taffeta All Silk 89 , Taffateen Silk & Cotton 42 Tulle All Silk 61 Tussah All Silk 55 Tweed All Wool 65 Velour All Wool 38 Velvet All Silk 45 Velveteen All Cotton 52 Voile All Cotton 72 Worsted All Wool 71 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 15 The following terms show considerable confusion in the minds of consumers. LIST VII. Fabric names which are especially confusing. Brocade Linene Taffateen Crepe Plush Tussah Damask Poplin Velour Duvetyn Silk Lisle Only the opinion held by the greatest number is shown in List VI, but the detailed facts with regard to the fabrics just mentioned are shown in the following supplementary statement: . LIST VIII. PERCENTAGE OF REPLIES Fabric All Silk AU Wool All Cotton All Linen Part Silk Part Wool Part Linen Merely Finish or Weave Brocade 35 12 9.6 16 9.8 5.5 2 55 8.5 1.7 33 4.4 2.7 2 38 3.4 43 5.7 1.7 61 7 22 23 40 1.7 2.5 62 19 6 1.8 30 45 27 52 43 22 22 5 31 6.7 8 7 4 28 1.7 20 11 11 5.2 4.8 7 3.7 4.8 9 4 6 Crepe Damask Duvetyn Linene Plush Poplin Silk Lisle Taffateen ♦Tussah Velour ♦9.2% think Tussah is artificial silk. It is a noteworthy fact that in the case of all the foregoing fabrics, an unusually large number of replies indicated that no opinion was held regarding the content. A large number checked the "Don't know" column. This was particularly true of Brocade, Duvetyn, Plush, Taffateen, Tussah, Silk Lisle, Velour. Clearly it is of special importance that these seven terms should be accompanied by some explanatory word or words to indicate true content. 16 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS Types of Misleading Textile Terms An examination of the various terms included in the Bureau's lists shows that various ideas lie back of those terms and that they may be grouped into a number of distinct classes. This group might be made on different bases but the following will serve to illustrate the situation. The Chief Groups I. Names containing the name of a single pure textile material without modification. of Textile Trade Names American Silk II. Name of a single ma- terial joined with a descriptive term calcu- lated to indicate some- thing as to the nature of the fabric or its content. Australian Wool China Silk French Linen French Linon French Serge 1. Name joined with a separ- India Linen ate name of a country or -< Irish Linen foreign term. Irish Poplin Italian Silk Kamura Silk Killarney Linen Kumsi Kumsa Silk Suesenne Silk , Venetian Satin r A.B.C. Silk Aledo Silk Amazon Silk Beauty Satin 2. Name joined with separate Boulevard Velvet trade name which gives no < Carnation Linen indication of content. Domet Flannel Georgette Silk Hero Flannel Skinner's Satin Union Linen ' Art. Silk Deluxknit Silk Economy Silk Feather Silk Fibre Silk Khaki-Kool 1. The modifying term Near Linen separate. Nu-Satin Tub silk Weartex Serge Costume Velvet Lingerie Silk Scarf Satin Surf Satin 2. The modifying name com- Subsilk bined with basic term. Sportsilk TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 17 III. Name of a single ma- terial modified by a -i diminutive ending. V. VI. IV. Name composed of combination of two < materials. Names indicating ap- pearance or finish. Names indicating the raw material. Linene Linonette Pongeen Silkateen Silkine Silko Silkolette Taffateen Veldyne Velveteen Velvetta Wooleen Mohcilque Ramie Linene Silk Gingham Silk Lisle Velour Plush Wulsylk Krepe Knit Lin-N-Like Linenized Cretonnes Linenized Percale Silk finished poplin Wool processed Woolnap Woolspun Wooltex Alaflax Australian Wool Flaxon Golden Fleece Linflax Persian Fleece VII. Names containing a combination of raw material and a fabric generally woven from the same material. VIII. Names based on a gen- eral term such as "cloth." • r Silkataff Linflax Beach Cloth Kelly Kloth Kool Kloth Kitten's Ear Cloth 18 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS One point of interest in the various trade names is the practice of misspelling. The terms might be all divided into two groups on this basis. An illus- trative list of those names in which liberties are taken with spelling is as follows: Art Silk French Linon Kool Kloth Linonette Lin-N-Like Mohcilque The term "Art Silk" is mentioned, as it is correctly written "Art. Silk," being an abbreviation of "Arti- ficial Silk." When misspelled, this term is as clearly misleading. GENERAL PRINCIPLES A study of the lists of those terms which are found to be misleading and those found not to be mislead- ing makes it possible to draw certain general con- clusions which may serve as the basis for determ- ining the correct usage in this regard. These con- clusions are tentatively formulated in the following paragraphs. (1.) When such terms as silk, wool and linen are essentially unmodified they can have only one general meaning — they must indicate an all-pure material. This is true both in law and in ethics, and the results of the Bureau's investigation show that consumers in fact have the same opinion. In this connection it is interesting to note the basis of reasoning used by the the Federal Trade Commission. "The word silk when applied to thread or textile goods both in the technical and popular usage, has a precise and exact meaning and is only accurately and properly used in identifying and describing materials derived from the cocoon of the silk worm." This establishes an unequivocal prin- ciple which not only applies to silk but all standard fabrics. (2.) When a term which primarily indicates some weave or finish which by custom comes also to indicate a kind of material such as silk, wool or linen, the foregoing statement applies. That is, such terms should denote an all-pure material content. Such terms are: Chiffon, Foulard, Georgette, Pon- gee, Satin, Taffeta, Tulle, Tussah, Velvet, all of which denote silk; and Alpaca, Flannel, Serge, Tweed, worsted, all of which denote wool. Damask denotes linen. Even within the all-pure materials there may be a considerable range as to grade or quality. For example, all-pure silk may under present conditions be wild silk, thread silk, filled silk or any one of a considerable number of similar descriptions. This condition is not desirable, but under present trade arrangements the Bureau is not prepared to draw definite conclusions. It is merely suggested that careful manufacturers and dealers will indicate in their descriptions the grade or quality of the material contained. (3.) The use, in connection with the name of a fabric, of colorless firm or brand names, or names of countries which have no special significance, does not affect the significance of the basic term. Such a use does not affect the responsibility of the manufac- turer or dealer who sells a product as silk, wool or linen nor modify the conclusion that the fabric is all-pure. This observation applies to such names as, Aledo Silk, Australian Wool, Carnation Linen, China Silk, Italian Silk, Seco Silk, Skinner's Satin. Such brand names do not essentially modify the name of the basic material. Two special points, however, may be made with regard to the use of the name of a country: (a) The name of a foreign country used to modify some basic term such as silk, wool or linen may reasonably be assumed to indicate that the fabric so designated is produced in the foreign coun- try named and accordingly is apt to be misleading when in reality the fabric is made in the United States. This is true even when the raw material comes from the foreign country named and the weave or finish is like the product of the said foreign country; for the term silk, wool or linen as applied to a woven textile product indicates the finished fabric. Accordingly, such terms as Irish Poplin, India Linen, Italian Silk, English Broadcloth, and other well-known combinations of this order are in the Bureau's opinion undesirable and should be dis- couraged by the textile trade. (b) The use of the name of a foreign country may make a textile term doubly misleading in case that country is one well-known to produce a high- TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 19 grade or characteristic fabric which might be con- fused with the product sold under the trade name. In the term Persian Fleece, for example, a country is named which is well-known for fine wool. The use of the word Irish in connection with linen fabrics has a special significance, as is also the case with Italian names when coupled with silk, such as Venetian Satin. (4.) When the fabric to be named is not an all- pure material, the words silk, wool, and linen must be essentially modified if they are not to be mislead- ing. It is a vital question, then, to inquire what con- stitutes an essential modification appropriate to cover fabrics which are not all-pure. The Bureau's investi- gation of textile terms indicates the various methods that have been used, such as, modification of spelling, addition of diminutive endings, and the joining with other words which to some extent indicate the content, appearance, or use of the fabric. One conclusion which stands out clearly is that any fabric which bears a name containing the words silk, wool, or linen (or such names as satin, serge, velvet, or worsted) which are not essentially modi- fied, will be thought by consumers to be all-pure, with rare exceptions established by long usage. As already indicated, the addition of a firm name or a meaningless brand name does not constitute an essential modification. VARIABLE ELEMENTS IN TEXTILE FABRICS The several factors as to which fabrics may vary and which may accordingly be made the basis either for a correct modification of the basic term, or for a misleading terminology, are the following: (1) Material content (2) Weave or finish (3) Appearance (4) Use or adaptation for special purposes. (5) Economy (6) "Quality" (Workman- ship, weight, etc.) It follows that any manufacturer or dealer who desires to describe his product must consider one or more of these factors in choosing a name which is to be descriptive and essentially to modify any basic word such as silk, wool or linen. When modification is in the interest of truth and service to the consumer it will accurately describe the fabric. To avoid misleading consumers when the question involved is one of material content, it is clearly necessary that the name should correctly indicate the material or mixture of materials. How definite an indication of the content may be necessary de- pends on circumstances. One important point to note is that if some general term such as satin, vel vet, or poplin forms the basis of the name, it is essential that the material contained be definitely indicated; for such fabrics as those named and others listed on page 14 are shown by this investiga- tion to be very confusing to consumers. Accordingly, it should be indicated whether the poplin is cotton, linen or woolen poplin ; whether the velvet is silk, or cotton, or cotton back, etc. Another point to note is that in some cases, at least, the ending "ine" or "ene" or "een" may suffice to indicate a cotton mixture or even an all cotton material. Thus, such terms, as silkine, sateen and linene, while misleading, are not seriously misleading. When the question involved is not one of material content but of form (weave, appearance, etc.) it is a general rule that care is necessary that the term used should not indicate a material content which the fabric does not actually have. For illustration, the term "Scotch Linen" is bad for the reason that it indicates a linen content while as a matter of fact the material so named is made entirely of cotton and is merely finished to resemble linen. A less objectionable usage is suggested by the term "Lin-N-Like," for this term does not suggest that the fabric is made of linen but merely that it is made to look like linen. (Lin-N-Like, however, should be sold for what it is, cotton, and no attempt should be made to trade on a better product by simu- lating its name.) Similarly, when the question is one of the use or adaptation for a special purpose, the term should not wrongly indicate content. "Surf Satin" and "Costume Velvet" are bad because they mislead the consumer by implying that the fabrics are made of silk and the terms "Surf" and "Cos- tume" do not give any warning. Of course, if the fabrics are actually made of silk, (e. g., "Boudoir Silk,, and "Tub Silk,") no question is involved. 20 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS It is desirable in such cases as those just men- tioned to use as a base term for fabrics which are not all-pure silk, linen, or wool, some general term such as "cloth," or "fabric." An illustration of correct usage of this sort would be the term "Beach Cloth" and "Kool Kloth" which do not indicate to the con- sumer that they are made of wool or linen. An outstanding point made by the evidence of the questionnaires is the fact that terms implying re- semblance are dangerous and require great care if they are not to be misleading. Among the mislead- ing terms are, "Near Linen," "Woolspun," and "Wool processed." Abstractly considered, one might think these terms innocuous, on the ground that they only claim some resemblance to the materials named. A large part of the women who replied to the questionnaire, however, thought the fabrics to contain some of the material named. Apparently, their idea is that to be "Near Linen," the fabric must contain at least a little linen, and to be "Wool Processed" the goods must be part wool. The motives which lead to departure from the foregoing principles are of interest and these seem to be reducible to three: 1. A desire to sell some cheap material at the price of a more valuable material. 2. A desire to make some cheap material attrac- tive without selling it at an unreasonably high price. 3. A desire to identify some special fabric. With reference to the first of these motives it may be concluded that, where it is uppermost, the term adopted to designate the fabrics concerned will always be misleading. It is this motive which often leads manufacturers or dealers to sell goods which are all or part cotton as silks, linens, or woolens. Illustrations of this charge appear in the use of such terms as "American Taffeta," "Australian Wool," "Boulevard Velvet," and several others which can be found in the list of misleading terms on pages 6 & 7. Unfortunately, however, long custom has estab- lished the use of some terms, as "India Linen" and "Canton Flannel," which while they may have originally been introduced under the first motive, are now general terms which are understood by the great majority of consumers. Moreover, it seems probable that for lack of vocabulary or other honest motive some fabrics have been given names which imply a more expensive material than that of which they are really composed, but are sold at reasonable prices based on actual content. The fact that much continuous effort has been required to overcome the inherent misleading character of the terms shows that they intend to mislead. It is possible to render men and animals immune to many poisons by inoculation. Nevertheless, the poisons are still poisonous. In the same way, new terms similar to "Canton Flannel," and "Economy Silk," would be misleading, and the old terms do not appear to furnish a precedent which can justify their adoption. This suggests the second motive, the desire to make some cheaper material appear attractive with- out charging an undue price therefor. This motive may or may not lead to the use of misleading trade terms, although it must frequently do so. It is perhaps illustrated by the term "Economy Silk," which is a fabric composed partly of silk and partly of cotton. Undoubtedly those responsible for this name thought it would make a stronger appeal if called a "silk" than if it were merely called by some general term such as "Economy Fabric." Such terms as Skinner's Satin and Woolnap may also be mentioned, both of which are misleading. The third motive, which is merely to identify some special fabric, may or may not result in the use of misleading terms, depending upon whether or not the term adopted conforms with the principles laid down on pages 18-19. The ground of identification may be weave or finish, special mixture or combina- tion of materials, quality of material or workman- ship, or merely a distinctive, and in no sense mis- leading name, or something else. The simple prin- ciple which should guide in determining the name is that it should not give an incorrect indication as to the nature of the material. The trade marked names "Dew Kist,'" "Palm Beach," "Khaki-Kool" and "Fruit of the Loom," are terms calculated to identify the fabrics sold under those names without conveying any misleading impressions. When, however, a product is called "Suskana Silk," "Nu-Satin," "Satin de Chine," "Venetian Satin," or "Wulsylk," the authors of the terms exceed the bounds of mere identification and convey the idea that cotton fabrics are at least partly silk. Of course, common honesty is involved in this matter. Even when joined with TEXTILE TRADE TERMS 21 the word silk, Khaki-Kool is not misleading because it designates a pongee silk suiting; while Kumsi Kumsa, when joined with the word silk, is mislead- ing, because under that name a product composed of artificial silk is sold. SUMMARY OF CONCLUSIONS A group of principles or general conclusions based on the Bureau's research may be formulated as follows: ( 1 ) Terms such as silk, wool, and linen, if they are not to be misleading, must be confined to fabrics which contain nothing but the pure material specified. (2) Terms indicating a fabric which has a cer- tain weave or finish, but which may contain any one of several different materials, if they are not to be misleading, must be accompanied by words which correctly indicate the content. Such terms are Bro- cade, Duvetyn, Poplin, Plush, Taffeta, Tussah, Velour, and others. (3) Terms which indicate a combination of materials are especially apt to be misleading and re- quire especial care. This is true because the very fact that a mixture is indicated seems to show that an effort is being made at greater precision; that is, such terms seem to assert definitely that some quant- ity of each of the materials indicated is present. By simulating or conveying the impression of ac- curacy, such terms are more apt to mislead than if they did not imply a mixture. Some anomalous terms are not only apt to be misleading on the foregoing ground but are so highly illogical as to be little short of absurd. Such terms are "Silk Lisle," "Fibre Silk," "Velour Plush," and "Ramie Linene." (4) Terms containing a combination of both the name of a country (or some word suggesting a country) and a material which is used in the manu- facture of some fabric for which the country is well known, are apt to have a strongly misleading effect when used inaccurately. For illustration, the follow- ing terms may be mentioned: Venetian Satin, Aus- tralian Wool, Irish Linen, Kamura Silk. (5) Terms which contain the name of some raw material instead of a fabric are apt to be highly misleading, e. g., Linflax, Australian Wool. (6) The term "fleece" clearly suggests wool to the average consumer, and, when used to designate fabrics or materials which are not wool, is mis- leading, i— (7) A small percentage of consumers (appar- ently a little over 20% ) do not make reasonable dis- tinctions in buying fabrics. While their misunder- standings are ignored by many retailers, they can be constructively served by simon pure accuracy in advertising description and names of fabrics. (8) Certain long established terms which, though they may once have been misleading, are now generally understood by consumers, may be admitted as not now misleading although, abstractly considered, they are undesirable. Such terms are Canton Flannel, Outing Flannel, India Linen, and possibly Velveteen. It is suggested that it may be well to indicate the exceptional character of these terms by always placing after them in parentheses the name of the material of which they are com- posed. For instance, outing flannel should be des- cribed as follows: "Outing Flannel," (Cotton). More particularly, however, those modifications which follow the well established form of joining to the base term a diminutive ending are less mis- leading. By this is meant such terms as Velveteen, Sateen, Silkaline and the like. On the basis of the Bureau's questionnaire it may be concluded that a majority of consumers take the ending "een" or variations thereof to indicate the presence of cotton, and it will be observed that few of these terms are contained in the list of misleading terms and none have been found which are highly misleading. Custom is no excuse in law for the existence of these terms. The United States Supreme Court in the Winsted Hosiery Company decision sees no defense for misleading trade names in the excuse that they are a custom of the trade, but says that "A method inherently unfair does not cease to be so because those competed against have become aware of the wrongful practice. Nor does it cease to be unfair because the falsity of the manufacturer's representation has become so well known to the trade that dealers, as distinguished from consumers, are no longer deceived. The honest manufacturer's busi- ness may suffer, not merely through a competitor's deceiving his direct customer, the retailer, but also 22 TEXTILE TRADE TERMS through the competitor's putting into the hands of the retailer an unlawful instrument, which enables the retailer to increase his own sales of the dishonest goods, thereby lessening the market for the honest product." (10) When the fabric to be named is not all- pure, the use of general terms such as fabric, cloth, material, suiting, etc., is desirable in place of such terms as silk, wool or woolen, and linen. The latter are apt to mislead because they not only indicate the fabric, but also the materials used in its com- position. There appears to be no logical reason why such terms as "A. B. C. Silk" should have been used instead of "A. B, C. Fabric," or "A. B. C. Cloth." (Recently the manufacturer has followed the procedure here suggested.) Several illustrations of this last principle might be mentioned from actual practice, as, for example, the fabric called "Ramie Linene" was changed to "American Cloth," which is a move in the right direction and removes all misleading implications. (11) The use of the word, "near," with the word, linen, does not prevent consumers from being misled when the fabric concerned is cotton. (12) Such terms as "Woolspun" and "Wool Processed" are misleading when applied to products which contain no wool. The two foregoing points show that many women reason that to be "Near Linen" or "Woolspun," etc., the fabric must contain some of the material named APPENDIX A. APPENDIX B. APPENDIX C. APPENDIX A (1) Have you ever received complaints from customers that the trade name applied to silk or woolen fabrics was misleading? . (2) If so, what were the terms complained of? (3) Have you yourself ever been misled by any trade name into supposing fabrics containing cotton were all silk or all wool? FTONAT"RE ir,nnr<;'! APPENDIX A APPENDIX B. Tables Showing Complete Returns From Questionnaires Questionnaire "A" Aeroplane Linen Alaflax Aledo Silk Ail-but Linen Amazon Silk American Silk American Taffeta Artificial Silk Australian Wool Baronette Satin Beauty Satin Boudoir Silk Boulevard Velvet Brazos Silk Brilliant Satine Canton Flannel Canton Silk Clachan Serge Costume Velvet Deluxknit Silk Dewkist Silk Domet Flannel Economy Silk Feather Silk French Flannel French Linen French Linon French Serge 1 2 Total No. of Replies in ques- tionnaires Number Replying "Don't Know*' 464 40 353 373 387 365 370 183 220 146 195 149 451 158 446 147 359 81 437 60 358 179 363 178 454 262 368 225 362 118 337 15 448 97 363 208 454 134 363 227 303 105 357 155 401 148 384 234 359 39 366 97 408 124 357 190 Total No. of replies Minus The No. Replying "Don't Know" 424 170 153 241 170 221 293 309 278 377 179 185 192 143 244 322 351 155 320 136 198 202 253 150 320 269 284 167 Material Named by Largest Num- ber as being that of which the fa- bric is composed. All linen All linen All silk All cotton All silk All silk All silk Artificial silk All wool All silk All silk All silk All silk All silk All cotton All cotton All silk All wool All silk All silk All silk All cotton Silk & cotton All silk All wool All linen All cotton All wool 5 Per cent naming Materials in Col. 4 Per Cent based on Col. 3) 79 43 31 74 49 51 69 35 95 51 64 62 44 46 75 75 77 69 35 52 65 47 47 48 83 88 54 73 Material Suggested by the term Linen Linen Silk Linen Silk Silk Silk Silk Wool Silk Silk Silk Silk Silk Silk Wool SUk Wool Silk Silk Silk Wool Silk Silk Wool Linen Linen Wool Per cent naming material as the Whole Content 79 43 31 2 49 51 69 95 51 64 62 44 46 5 8.7 77 69 35 52 65 34 8 48 85 88 17 73 Per ct nt naming material as the Part Content APPENDIX B. Tables Showing Complete Returns From Questionnaires Questionnaire "A" Georgette Silk Gloveskin Woolens* . . . Golden Fleece Blankets. Hero Flannel India Linen Irish Poplin Italian Silk Jap Silk Kearsage Flannel Khaki-Kool Killarney Linen Kumsi Kumsa Silk Lackawanna Wool-. Linene Linenized Cretonnes Linflax Suitings Lingerie Silk Lin-N-like Linonette Maisilk Marronette Silk Marvel Silk Mohcilque Near Linen Nu Satin Outing Flannel Palmer Linen Total No. of Replies in ques- tionnaires 439 258 357 357 307 354 450 451 351 366 546 364 355 358 375 446 360 344. 369 355 360 368 354 544 449 256 360 Number Replying "Don't Know" 58 99 125 218 48 92 150 60 219 117 247 155 195 32 84 177 94 140 143 239 237 224 310 91 232 16 188 Total No. of replies Minus the No. Replying "Don't Know Material Named by Largest Num- ber as being that of which the fabric is composed Per cent naming Materials in Col. 4 Per cent based on Col. 3 381 159 232 139 259 262 300 391 132 249 299 209 160 326 291 269 266 204 226 116 123 144 44 453 217 240 172 All silk All wool All wool All wool All cotton All cotton All silk All silk All wool All silk All linen All silk All wool All cotton All cotton All cotton All silk All cotton All cotton Artificial silk All silk All silk All cotton All cotton All cotton All cotton All linen 72 77 48 56 73 56 84 83 56 51 86 63 75 76 83 42 45 83 75 31 45 40 25 52 40 76 46 Material Suggested by the term Silk Wool Wool Wool Linen [Silk (Linen Silk Silk Wool Silk Linen Silk Wool Linen Linen Linen Silk Linen Linen Silk Silk Silk Silk Linen Silk Wool Linen Per cent naming material as the Whole Content 72 77 48 56 11 7 6 85 83 56 51 86 63 75 7 45 .009 16 45 40 9 11 7 46 ■ Per cent naming material as the Part Content 16 18 23 27 15 22 11 6 10 25 27 7 13 16 22 15 26 37 13 20 29 19 19 7 44 32 17 23 *So written in questionnaire. "Gloveskin Cloth" is the registered name of certain woolen dress goods. APPENDIX B. Tables Showing Complete Returns From Questionnaires 1 2 3 4 I 6 7 8 Questionnaire "A" Total No. of Replies in ques- tionnaires Number Replying "Don't Know" Total No. of replies Minus The No. Replying "Don't Know" Material Named by Largest Num- ber as being that of which the fa- bric is composed. Per cent naming Materials in Col. A Per Cen based on Col. 3) Material Suggested by the term Per cent naming material as the Whole Content Per ct nt naming material as the Part Content Persian Fleece 445 368 443 463 371 246 446 357 385 348 352 439 372 361 354 355 461 354 358 356 352 358 351 354 255 354 299 365 258 167 226 152 144 37 171 71 105 134 63 80 215 123 69 43 213 185 64 40 126 213 175 141 241 221 145 169 187 201 217 311 227 209 275 286 280 214 289 359 157 238 285 312 248 169 294 316 226 145 176 213 114 133 154 196 All wool AUsUk All cotton All silk AU cotton AUsilk AUsilk All wool AU linen Silk & cotton AUsilk AU cotton AU cotton All cotton All cotton All cotton AU cotton All cotton All cotton Silk & cotton AU cotton All cotton All cotton All cotton AUsilk AU wool AUsilk All cotton 65 27 39 66 56 84 81 95 78 38 75 65 48 71 64 57 57 54 47 50 65 43 36 49 33 60 73 45 Wool SUk SUk SUk Linen SUk Silk Wool Linen Silk Silk SUk SUk SUk SUk SUk Silk Silk SUk Silk Silk Silk SUk SUk SUk Wool SUk Silk 1 65 27 9 66 10 84 81 95 78 19 75 1 7 9 2 3 32 7 4 13 17 33 60 73 7 12 Pongeea 40 Pongeen 36 Radio silk 15 Ramie Linene 25 14 Satin de Chine 13 Saxony Wool 2 Scotch Linen 6 Seco SUk 59 Shantung SUk 18 Silkaline 23 SUkataff 30 Silkateen 20 SUk Finished Poplin 33 SUk Gingham 30 Silkine 22 Silkolette 27 Silk Lisle 47 Skinner's Satin Lining 54 Soisette 19 Subsilk 36 Suesine SUk 38 28 26 Swanskin Woolen 32 Taffeta'Plaid 17 Taffateen 38 APPENDIX B. Tables Showing Complete Returns From Questionnaires i 2 3 4 9 6 7 8 Questionnaire "A" Total No. of Replies in ques- tionnaires Number Replying "Don't Know" Total No. of replies Minus the No. Replying "Don't Know Material Named by Largest Num- ber as being that of which the fabric is composed Per cent naming Materials in Col. i Per cent based on Col. 3 Material Suggested by the term Per cent naming material as the Whole Content Per cent naming material as the Part Content 334 328 360 435 335 450 367 477 355 361 353 353 349 357 350 363 355 213 66 215 88 141 247 128 255 49 168 174 128 176 168 214 229 242 121 262 145 347 194 213 239 222 306 193 179 225 173 189 136 134 113 All silk All silk All silk All silk [Linen & 1 | cotton J All silk Silk & cotton All cotton All cotton All wool [Wool & 1 1 cotton / All cotton [Wool & 1 \ cotton J All wool [Wool & 1 \ cotton / Silk & wool All silk 32 47 38 52 37 51 23 50 61 53 55 29 3 65 33 57 40 Silk Silk Silk Silk Linen Silk (Cotton |Silk [Wool Silk Silk Wool Wool Wool Wool Wool Wool /Silk \Wool Silk 32 47 38 52 23 51 16 14 10 2 53 66 20 26 65 27 40 41 Tricolette Silk 14 18 Tub Silk 35 Union Linen 50 Venetian Satin 18 Velour Plush 35 45 Velvetta 32 28 Velveteen 36 Weartex Serge 40 Woolene 69 Wool Nap 39 Wool Processed .' 44 Woolspun 25 Wulspun 38 Wulsylk 62 Zaza Silk 62 20 APPENDIX C Questionnaire "B" (N. B. A few terms were duplicated in the two Questionnaires) Total No. of Replies Number Replying "Don't Know" Total Minus "Don't Know" Material Named by Largest Number Per cent of Total Alpaca 449 478 466 375 462 449 440 461 463 472 461 462 460 462 460 448 448 459 461 460 448 456 456 457 427 459 459 458 460 462 479 459 459 44 22 55 19 14 29 5 24 59 37 16 29 17 29 19 63 20 22 13 12 11 68 60 9 180 77 167 38 60 40 64 17 20 405 456 411 356 448 420 435 437 404 435 445 433 443 433 441 385 428 437 448 448 437 388 396 448 247 382 292 420 400 422 415 442 439 All wool All cotton All silk All cotton All silk All cotton All silk All linen All wool Artificial silk All wool All silk All silk All cotton All cotton Silk & cotton All silk All cotton All cotton All silk All wool All silk Silk & cotton All silk Silk & cotton All silk All silk All wool All wool All silk All cotton All cotton All wool 52 80 35 Canton Flannel 73 76 43 Crepe de Chine 84 62 33 Fibre Silk 69 72 65 Linene 67 61 Outing Flannel 77 Plush 45 66 21 75 72 75 Shantung Silk 66 Silk Lisle 51 Taffeta 89 Taffateen 42 Tulle 61 Tussah 55 65 38 Velvet 45 Velveteen 52 Voile 72 71 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. '■ 5Mavcnt>fc ■:u t-v (\PB 26 B6 i LD 21A-50m-12,'G0 (B6221sl0)476B General Library University of California Berkeley 54449-> UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY