1 3 4 6 U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY Bulletin Ncx D. E. SALMON, D. V. M., Chief of Bureau./^ *s THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. Report upon Experiments Conducted Under the Auspices of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Dairy Division, in Cooperation with the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station and the New York Agricultural Experiment Station. BY s. M. BABCOOK AND H. L. RUSSELL, ASSISTED BY IT. S. BAER, Madison, Wis., AND L. L. VAN SLVKK, G. A. SMITH, AND E. B. HART, Gen-eva, N. "Y . WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1903. ORGANIZATION OF Till- Itl KKU OF ANIMAL INW SUM. ii,-f: D. K. SALMON. I>. V. M. ton* C/i /V/V A. D. MKI.YIN. 1 ). V. S. ( 'hi< f Cli'rk: S. K. KIRCH. I tn'i fit I>!rix!<>n: HKNIIY K. A I.YOKD, C. K., chief: HAHUY 1 1 AYWAKD. M. S.. assistant chief. ' Jn .f/n'i'>!. V. M., chief: K. I'.. .!OM-,S, 1,1,. M.. M. !>.. assistant chief. ., chief. (IK FAY KTTK THOMPSON. M. S. Arlixl: W. S. I). H\ INKS. /'// Aithiml. Iliixhtiitilr;/: (IKOKI.K Ni. KOM.MKI.. T>. S. A. /<(//. I'.KATKICK ( '. OHKRLY. I.ABOKATOUIKS. Pincltrmir nirixlriri: V.. A. in: SCHWKINIT/, 1'h. !>., M. 1)., chief: M AIMON I >< M. 1 ., assistant chief. r/n(/icii/ nirixitni: Cn. \V.\];i)]oi.i. STI I.KS," M . S.. A. M.. I'h. !)., consulting zoologizrt in charge. i:\PKKIMKNT STATION. Xi<]>r/-!)iti-n. V.: exjtort assistant. W. ]]. COTTOV. INSPECTORS IN CIIAKOK. Dr. F. W, Ainsworth, Fast Liberty Stock Yards, Dr. F. L. DC Wolf, care ('has. WollT J'ackiir. I'ittshurg. I'nf Dr. M. (). Anderson, care Ceo. A. Honnd A. Co.. A\i>tin. .Minn. J)r. Don C. Aver, rost-oilii-i- Building. Oinahit. Nehr. Dr. John A. Bell, \Viilertown. N. Y. Dr. (i. S Baker. C.th ami Townsend sts.. San Fran- cisco, Cal. Topcka, Kans. Dr. (ieo. Ditewiir. care Tri-City I'ackin,!,' Co., Dav- eni>oil, Io\va. Dr. K. F. Dowd. care White. Tevey ,v Dex r Worcester, Mass. Dr. <). K. Dyson. :;i(i Exchange Biiildini:. I'nion Slock Yards. Chicago. III. Dr. (ieo. C. Faville. Box 7%. Norfolk. Va. Dr. L. K. Baker, care Tnion stock Yards, Cinein- Dr. X. K. Fc,i, r lcy, care Spcrry ^ Banie>, Ne\\ nati. Ohio. HaviMi Conn. Dr. Boyil Baldwin, care Cudahy Bros., Ciidaliy, Dr. .lolin Forties. KxehaiiL-e I'.uililinu. South St. Wis. " .lose|ih. Mo. Dr. A. Iv Bclnike, room !:;_' Federal Huildinir. Dr. T. A. (ieddes. care I'. S. Consul. London, Milwaukee. Wis. Knyland. Dr. S. F. Bennett. 117 Milk St., Boston, M Dr. H. H.iieori;e. r,n7 Johnson st., Louisville. Ky. Dr. Fred BraKmton, care Continental Packing Dr. W. II. Gihlis. care Morton-*, re.yson ( ( 'o.. BloomiiiKton, Jll. Jir. .1. J. Brougham, care Missouri Stock Yards. St Louis Mo. Dr. (i. W. Butler, care Dnninnond Bros.. F.au Claire. Wis. Dr. Richard .1. Blanche, care Brittain A Co., Mar- tiraska City, Nehr. Dr. L. K. Greet), care Hammond. StandisK Detniit. Mich. Dr. H. A lk'driek,.'i:>St. I'anl St.. Baltimore. Md. Dr. ( i. B. Mess, care Frye-Brnhn Ciiiiijmiiy, Seattle. Wash. shalltown. Iowa. Mr. (i s. Hickox. 1'. o. l>x ! 1 l.\ Salt Lake City, Dr. W. S Cuss, care West Lincoln Stock Yard-. I'tah. Lincoln. Nchr. Mr. Win. K. Hill, L-JHJ i:. Fourth st.. Sta. B. Los Dr. .1. B. Clancy. National Stock Yards. 111.- Angeles. Cal. Dr. Charles Cowie. < >ndenshur>r. N. Y. Dr. A. A. Jlolconibe. Aurora, 111. Dr. David Cummin?,', '.ML' Lapeerave.. Port Huron. Dr. Julius Hudson, care Central Stock Yari! Mich. Jersey City. N. .1. Dr. Kohert Darling, care ('has. S Hardy, San Dr. E. W. Huntingtpn, 6. T. R.J1. Building, Port- Die^o, Cal land, Me. Dr. J. F. Deadman, Sault Sic Marie, Mich. Mr. James Invin. Auhurn, 111. Mr. Albert Dean, room :{_'* Stock Yard Station. Dr. Charles Keane, care Cudahy I'ai-kiiiL Kansas City, Kans. Lo> Anu'ele^. Cal. 'iiinm-d on ;;d ],aj,'c of cover.] "Transferred. August id. I'.Hi-j. to r. S. Public Health and Marine-Hospital Service, as Chief of Di\ ision of Xooloiry, but remains also in temporary charge of Zoological Division. Jiureau of Animal Industry. U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY Bulletin No. 49. D. E SALMON, D. V. M., Chief of Bureau. Report upon Experiments Conducted Under the Auspices of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Dairy Division, in Cooperation with the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station and the New York Agricultural Experiment Station. BY S. M. BABCOCK AND H. L. RUSSELL, ASSISTED BY U. S. BAER, Madison, \Vis., AND L. L. VAN SLYKE, G. A. SMITH, AND E. B. HART, Geneva, N. Y. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1003. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY, Washington, D. C., August 1, 1903. SIR: I have the honor to transmit herewith a manuscript on the cold-curing of cheese, being a report of a cooperative experiment of the Dairy Division and the experiment stations of Wisconsin and New York. The work has been very complete and the results satisfactory in a high degree, and I therefore recommend that this manuscript be published as a bulletin of this Bureau. Respectfully, D. E. SALMON, Chief of Bureau. Hon. JAMES WILSON, Secretary. LETTER OF SUBMITTAL U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY, Washington, D. C., June, 1903. SIR: I have the honor to submit herewith, in manuscript, reports made by officers of the agricultural experiment stations of Wisconsin and New York upon experiments in the cold-curing of cheese recently conducted in cooperation with the Department of Agriculture, and recommend publication of the same as a bulletin of this Bureau. The work has been under the general supervision of the Dairy Division, and I desire to acknowledge the cordial cooperation of the two experiment stations named and their respective representatives, the material assistance of the cold-storage companies at Waterloo, Wis., and New York City, and the important and efficient services of the cheese experts who acted as scorers or judges, as described in the reports. Very respectfully, yours, HENRY E. ALVORD, Chief of Dairy Division. Dr. D. E. SALMON, Chief of Bureau of Animal Industry. (Dairy 49.) CONTENTS. Page. Introduction 7 Object of the experiments 9 The Western experiments, 1902-03 11 Selection of the cheese 11 Temperatures at which the cheese was cured 13 Details of scoring the cheese 13 Results of experiments 14 Part I. Shrinkage of cheese in weight when cured at different temper- atures 15 Factors influencing the rate of loss 15 Experiments in shrinkage of cold-cured cheese 16 Details of weighing 17 . Conditions under which the cheese was stored 17 Discussion of results 19 A. Influence of temperature on shrinkage 20 B. Influence of size and form of cheese on shrinkage 28 C. Influence of paraffining cheese on shrinkage during curing 33 Part II. Effect of temperature on quality of cheese 36 A. Course of curing at different temperatures 36 Course of ripening in type 1 36 Course of ripening in type II 41 Course of ripening in type III 43 B. Examination by commercial experts 44 Results of first jury trial 46 General summary of the first (three months' ) test 48 Results of second jury trial 48 General summary of second (five months') test 49 Comparison of the first and second jury trials as indicating the keeping quality of the cheese 49 Summary of effect of temperature on quality 50 C. Influence of paraffining on quality of cheese 51 General summary 53 Effect on shrinkage 53 Effect on quality 54 Appendix 57 The Eastern experiments, 1902-03 -. 71 Summary 71 Report on results of curing cheese in cold storage 72 Introduction 72 Description of sources and character of different lots of cheese used in the experiment 72 Length of experiment ^ 75 Distribution of cheeses in cold storage 75 Loss of weight 76 Results of commercial examination of cheese 78 Results of chemical analysis of cheese 82 Some practical applications 85 Economy in reducing loss of moisture 85 5 ILLUSTRATIONS. Facing page. PLATE I. Three cheese sections Type I 38 II. Two vertical cheese sections Type I 38 III. Two cheese sections Type II 4'2 IV. Three cheese sections Illinois cheese 46 TEXT FIGURES. Page. Fi<;. 1. Temperature record of 40 curing room 18 2. Temperature record of 50 curing room 18 3. Temperature record of 60 curing room 19 4. Weight losses Type I, cured at different temperatures 22 5. Weight losses Tvpe II, cured at different temperatures 25 6. Weight losses Type III. Michigan cheese 26 7. Weight losses. 10-pound prints 29 8. Weight losses. 20-pound ' ' Daisies " 30 9. Weight losses. Small cheese, cured at 40 F 30 10. Weight losses. Small cheeses, cured at 50 E 31 11. Weight losses. Small cheeses, cured at 60 F 32 12. Weight losses. 20-pound Daisies, paraffined 34 13. Weight losses. 10-pound prints, paraffined 35 14. Flavor for tvpe I 37 15. Texture for type I 38 16 Price for type I 39 17. Flavor for type II 40 18. Texture for type II 40 19. Price for type II 42 20. Flavor for type III 42 21. Texture for tvpc 1 1 1 43 22. Price for type III 44 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. INTRODUCTION. By HENRY E. ALVORD, C. E., Chief of Dairy Division, Bureau of Animal Industry. The prevalent opinion among cheese dealers has alwa} r s been that low temperatures, varying from 35 or 40 to 50 F. , or thereabouts, resulted in the production of an inferior quality of cheese, in com- parison with that from 60 to TO F. No carefully controlled experi- ments bearing on this problem have been recorded earlier than those undertaken by Babcock and Russell at the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station, and described in the Fourteenth (1897) Annual Report of that station. The results of those tests showed that cheese placed at refrigerator temperatures (45 to 50 F.), ffi directly from the press, was of superior quality as to flavor and also as to texture, and that such cheese was wholly free from any bitter or other undesirable taints. In connection with their studies on the influence which galactase and rennet extract exert on the progress of cheese ripening, the same investigators later employed still lower temperatures (25 to 30 F.). Cheeses were kept at these excessively low curing temperatures for a period of eighteen months. The quality of these cheeses, cured as they were below the freezing point throughout their whole history, was exceptionally fine, and emphasized still more than the previous experiments did the fact that the ripening of cheese can go on at much lower temperatures than has heretofore been considered possible. These results led to an extended series of experiments, in which cheese made on a commercial scale was cured at a range of tempera- ture from below freezing (15 F.) to 60 a point which common prac- tice has now accepted as the best obtainable temperature that can be secured without the use of artificial refrigeration. In these experiments (consisting of five series made at intervals throughout a period of two years) 138 cheeses were used, for which 30,000 pounds of milk were required. These experiments were upon a scale which represented commercial conditions, and therefore obvi- The first public presentation of these experiments was made at the meeting of the Wisconsin Cheesemakers' Association, in February, 1901. 7 8 HI KKAl' OK ANIMAL INDUSTKY. ated the objection which is often urged in commercial practice against the application of results derived simply from laboratory experiments. The results of these tests may be found detailed in Bulletin No. !4. and the Eighteenth (1901) and the Nineteenth (1902) Annual Reports of the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station. The Ontario Agricultural College began experiments on the cold curing of cheese in April, 1901. As a result of these tests, the con- clusion was drawn that the cheese cured at low temperatures (37. 8 F.) was much superior to that cured in ordinary curing rooms (average temperature during season 63.8 F.). Mr. R. M. Ballantyne, a promi- nent cheese expert, said of this cheese that " they [the merchants] universally expressed surprise at the condition of the cheese that \\;is put into cold storage at the earliest period (that is, directly from the press), as they expected to tind the cheese still curdy and probably with a bitter flavor." If this experiment is borne out by other experts, it would appear as if the best way to handle hot- weather cheese would be to ship it to the cold storage directly after making, and this would certainly mean a great revolution to the trade/' More extensive experiments are in progress in Canada, but the results have not yet been published, although general statements have been made confirming previous conclusions. A considerable number of experiments have also been made at other stations (Dominion government tests and New York State and Iowa experiment stations), where somewhat lower temperatures were used than those which are normally emplo} 7 ed for ripening. The results obtained all show an improvement in quality that becomes more marked as the temperature is reduced. In order that a much larger experiment might be instituted, covering the different types of cheese as represented by Eastern as well as West- ern manufacture, Drs. Babcock and Russell, of the Wisconsin Station, presented this matter for consideration to the Dairy Division of the Bureau of Animal Industry. As a result of this proposal the officers of the New York Agricultural Experiment Station were also consulted and plans perfected for the cooperative experiments conducted simul- taneously in Wisconsin and New York, which are described in full in this bulletin. It should be noted that it was so late in the season of 1902 when the arrangements for this work were completed that it WHS impossible to obtain favorable conditions in all respects. It was deemed desirable that the cheese to be tested should represent the product of as wide a range of territory as possible, and therefore it was decided to establish two curing stations one in the East and the other in the West. Drs. S. M. Babcock and II. L. Russell were put in charge of the Western experiments and Dr. L. L. Van Slyke and Mr. G. A. Smith of those in the East. Bulletin No. 121, Ontario Agricultural College, June, 1902. THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 9 OBJECTS OF THE EXPERIMENTS. In addition to the influence which a range in temperature exerts on the qualit} r of cheese, as determined by flavor and texture scores, instructions were also issued to secure data regarding the loss in weight wliich the different lots of cheese suffered at the different temperatures. The commercial quality of the product was to be determined by a jury of experts who were thoroughly in touch with the demands of the market. Although the effect of coating cheese with paraffin soon after being taken from the hoop was not at first proposed as a part of this work, it was finally included, both East and West. The reasons for selecting 40, 50, and 60 F. as the temperatures to be used in these experiments are fully given on a later page. It may be assumed that the advantages of a cool and even temperature in cur- ing Cheddar cheese have been already established in preference to a warm temperature or to very variable conditions which frequently include periods above 70 and sometimes much higher. As already stated, 60 or thereabouts is regarded as the lowest temperature prac- ticable without artificial refrigeration; this may therefore be taken as fairly representative of what may be called a "cool" temperature for curing cheese. And rooms held at 40 and 50 were selected as rep- resentative of a "cold" temperature for curing, or comparatively so. It is thus hoped to emphasize by these experiments the distinction between cool curing and cold curing. The cheese for these experiments was purchased by the United States Department of Agriculture, which also paid all expenses of transportation and storage and for the experts who made the period- ical examinations. The two experiment stations selected the cheese, arranged all details of storage and examination, supervised the work throughout, performed the chemical and other incidental scientific work, kept the records, and reported results. 10 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. In order that a uniform system of scoring might he followed in the experiments, the appended seore card was used for both: KXI'KKIMKXTS IN (YlMNc; ClIKKSK AT Lo\V TK.M I'KKATUJKS, I'MTKI) STATUS I>KI'AKT- MENT OF Ai.iiK ri.rruK, BUREAU OF ANIMAL IxnrsTKY, DAIRY DIVISION. Cheese judging Numerical ami thwriptice score card. Score for cheese (or sample) marked NUMERICAL SCORE. PERFECTION: Flavor 45 points. Texture 30 points. Color 15 ]>ints SCOKK: do do do Date: ,190 . Initials of the judge: DESCRIPTIVE SCORE. (Check the faults below.) Flavor. Texture and body. Color. Perfect Clean I Perfect Silky Perfect.. High Flatorlow Smooth Waxy > Straight. Too high acid Pasty Sal vy Translucent ............... White specks Streaked ...... Wavy Needs more acid Stiff Weak Sour Sweet Curdy Mealy Tainted Weedy ' Tallowy Gritty i Mottled'.*. Acid cut . Barny Cowy Close Loose \ Too high Too light. Old milk ! Holes, mechanical Uncolored Poor sewerage, dirty cans Holes, gas Holes, Swiss. . . Watery Too dry ... Each of the following* reports, prepared by the two experiment sta- tions participating in this work, treats the same general subject and similar lines of experiment and observation from its own point of view. The reports therefore differ in many respects, and yet they may be easily compared upon all essential points. Both support the follow- ing general conclusions: ADVANTAGES OF CURING CHEESE AT LOW TEMPERATURES BRIEFLY SUMMARIZED. (1) The loss of moisture is less at low temperatures, and therefore there is more cheese to sell. (2) The commercial quality of cheese cured at low temperatures is better, and this results in giving the cheese a higher market value. (3) Cheese can bo held a long time at low temperatures without impairment of quality. (4) liy utilizing the combination of paraffining cheese and curing it at low temperatures the greatest economy can be effected. THE WESTERN EXPERIMENTS, 1902-03. Conducted by S. M. BABCOCK and H. L. RUSSELL, assisted by U. S. BAEH, Of the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station. For the purposes of this experiment Chicago would naturally have been chosen as a curing station, but it was found difficult to make arrangements for the range of temperature desired. Suitable arrange- ments, however, were made at the cold-storage warehouse of the Roach & Seber Co., Waterloo, Wis., where rooms were fitted up and the desired temperatures secured. SELECTION OF THE CHEESE. As Wisconsin is the leading cheese- producing State of the West, the bulk of the product selected for experiment was of the type of cheese manufactured in this State. In order, however, to cover more thor- oughly the cheese-producing territoiy of the West, samples were also secured from a number of the neighboring States. In this way all types of American cheese were obtained, ranging from the firm, typ- ical Cheddar cheese, suitable for export, to the soft, open-bodied, moist cheese, intended for early consumption. For convenience we ma} 7 group these various lots of cheese under three different types, as follows: I. Close-bodied, firm, long-keeping type, suitable for export trade (typical Cheddar). II. Sweet-curd t} T pe. III. Soft, open-bodied, quick-curing type, suitable for early con- sumption. Type I represents the class of cheese that is especially manufactured in Wisconsin, while, as a rule, type III represents the kind of cheese that is chiefly made in Michigan. The representatives of the sweet- curd type were taken from Iowa and Illinois, although this class is made to some extent in all sections. The table herewith gives the location of the factories from which the different lots were secured, also the size and amount of cheese so purchased. 11 12 BUREAU OB' ANIMAL INDUSTRY. Oriffhi of cln't'Hf and (jwnititlex Origin and type. Style. Nlllllli.T. Wright. I . Export type. Wisconsin: Pounds. Thos. Johnston, Boaz, Richland County Flats 20 662 H. J. Noyes, Muscoda, Grant County do 18 571 P. H. Kasper, Nicholson, Waupaca County do 18 588 La Crosse Cheese and Butter Co., Alma, Buffalo County Oiiisics . iio 1,151 Do : Prints 40 400 II. Sweet-curd type. Iowa: E. G. Hodges Union, Hardin County. . Flats 20 607 Illinois: J. B. Gilbert & Co., Sterling, Whiteside County . . .do 20 583 III. Soft, home-trade type. Michigan: A. H. Barber & Co., Merrill, Saginaw County: I . Flats 9 287 II do 9 287 Ill do 29 924 IV do 13 416 In having the cheese made at these various factories directions were given for the use of a uniform amount of rennet and salt. Color was left optional for each maker to follow his customary practice. The use of 3 ounces of Hansen's rennet extract and 2 pounds of salt per 1,000 pounds of milk was recommended in each case with the excep- tion of the smaller cheeses (daisies and 10-pound prints), which were salted at the rate of 2i pounds per 1,000 pounds of milk. The cheese was made from September 26 to October 4. The condition of the milk was influenced in several instances by the fact that severe frosts had occurred in some sections, which injured the quality of the prod- uct. This was particularly true in the case of the Alma cheese, which was in consequence somewhat tainted. The milk from which the Iowa cheese was made was also reported as of inferior quality. The Michigan goods were too high in acid, and were cooked low, making a soft cheese, which was quick-curing and which kept poorly. Where it was necessary to secure cheese from such a wide range of territory it was manifestly impossible to expect that the curing could be carried out as satisfactorily as if it had been done at or near the factories. The varying period of transit to which the cheese was sub- jected, with no especial temperature control, affected, of course, the initial stages of curing, but the conditions of the experiment prevented the carrying out of immediate installation of the cheese in the cold curing rooms, especially in the case of those made outside of Wis- consin, although the shipments were made in October, when the temperature range was moderate.. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. TEMPERATURES AT WHICH THE CHEESE WAS CURED. 13 The cheese was weighed and put in the respective rooms as soon as received at Waterloo. It was stored in boxes during the curing, as is the custom in the handling of cold-storage goods. The temperatures at which it was desired to hold the cheese for curing were 40, 50, and 60 F. These points were selected for the following reasons: In our previous experiments we had found that the character of the cheese cured at the lower temperatures (40 and 50) was much better than that produced at 60. Perhaps it would have been better for the pur- pose of the experiment if the cold-cured cheese could have been com- pared with the same make of cheese cured under the widely variable conditions which prevail in most factories, where often the maximum temperature is in the neighborhood of 80 F. and the fluctuation is 20 or more; but we have made this comparison with the very best con- ditions that obtain in factories provided with subearth ducts and other means of temperature control. In such cases a temperature of 60 can be maintained with a fair degree of constancy. The experiments, therefore, compare the cold-curing process with that of the best pre- vailing conditions. The temperatures actually maintained varied only slightly from the chosen points, and in the two colder rooms were remarkably uniform. The 60 room was subject to somewhat wider fluctuations, but was much more uniform than is obtained in summer where no artificial refrigeration is practiced. The following table gives the average of all the observations made at regular intervals and the maximum and minimum observed throughout: Temperature records. Cold rooms. Normal tempera- ture. Low. Medium. Average 36.8 37.0 35.0 o F 46.9 47.5 45.0 J? 58.5 61.0 57.0 Maximum . . .* Minimum The daily fluctuations were inconsequential, as can be seen by a series of graphs taken from the registering instrument. DETAILS OF SCORING THE CHEESE. It would have been advisable to have the cheese examined a consid- erable number of times by the commercial judges, but it was impossible to carry out this test so frequently. The tests were therefore arranged to come at those periods which would give the judges the 14 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. most accurate idea of the character of the cheese, held at the dillci cut temperatures. As a jury of commercial experts, representing the different markets, the following gentlemen were selected: C. A. White, of Fond < at. 100 111 84-40 Room II Room III A factor which is frequently overlooked is the varying moisture content of the cheese. The more moisture there is left in the cheese the more rapid the evaporation. The varying moisture content of dif- ferent types of cheese is determined by the temperature at which the curds are cooked, the time of exposure, and the acidity of the curd. A cheese in which the acidity is developed is materially drier than a sweet-curd cheese. Salt also ha 1 ' -^ency to diminish the water content. In the foregoing cases the cause of this diminution in mois- ture is due to the shrinking of the curd particles under the, influence of these factors. An increase in fat lessens the drying of the curd. Much loss of moisture can also be prevented by coating the cheese with paraffin, a practice which is now coming into very general use for the prevention of mold and to lessen shrinkage in weight. EXPERIMENTS IN SHRINKAGE OK (OLD-CURED OI1KKSK. In these experiments the tirst careful weighings were made when the cheese was received at the cold-storage plant in Waterloo. The cheese was shipped from the* factories directly after it was removed from the press, but was in every case several days upon the road. In no instance was the interval between making and installing in cold- curing rooms less than five days, and it ranged from this up to seven- teen days with one lot from Michigan, which was delayed in transit. During this period, which was in early October, the cheese was sub- jected to varying conditions of temperature and exposure. In a few THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 17 cases boxes were broken, and in other instances the cheese was delayed at points of transfer. It was impossible to obviate these difficulties, as the cheese was purchased at distant points in order to secure repre- sentation from a wide range of territory and from different types of cheese. This variation in initial drying changed, of course, the rate of loss when cheese was placed in cold-curing rooms, so that this fac- tor must be taken into consideration in studying the data presented below. The losses reported here cover those only which took place in the cheese after it had reached the cold-curing rooms, but careful records have been kept for the entire curing period; and these data, we believe, .are of sufficient importance to warrant full consideration in this connection. DETAILS OF WEIGHING. The cheese was all weighed on counter scales, weighing accurately to fractions of an ounce. In order to check the accuracy of the weights, each cheese was weighed separately and the weight recorded; then the whole lot was weighed collectively. As these weights agreed within a few ounces, they sliow the accuracy of the weighings. For practical purposes it is desirable to know the losses which occur for stated periods. It was, however, impracticable for all of the cheese to be weighed at exactly the same intervals, as it was put in storage at different dates, but it was designed to secure at least three weighings for the first month of storage, two weighings for the second, and at about monthly intervals thereafter. If these data are charted, it is possible to deduce an estimated loss for any stated period, and in doing so we have selected the fol^" ! ntervals as being those concerning which data would be most frequently desired. For this purpose ten, twenty, thirty, sixty, ninety, etc., days have been selected. CONDITIONS UNDER WHICH THE CHEESE WAS STOKED. In this work the attempt was made to hold the cheese at 40, 5O, and 60 F. The actual temperatures secured averaged 36.8, 40.9, and 58.5 F. The variation in temperature in the two lower rooms was practically negligible, as it was only 2 to 2. The temperature of the 60 room oscillated somewhat more (4 F.), but was very much more uniform than ordinary factory curing rooms. (See tigs. 1, 2, and 3 for samples of the thermometric record.) Hygrometric data were not secured during the whole period, as it was at first thought that a saturated atmosphere would prevail where the cheese was box cured, but during the course of the experiments it was noted that the 50 cheese was not molding as much as was that at 40 and 60. This fact could only be explained by the assumption that a less humid atmosphere was present in the case of the 50 room. 4189 No. 4903 2 18 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDU8TKY. FIG. 1. Temperature record of 40 curing room. FIG. 2, Temperature record of 60 curing room. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 19 Observations at the end of the experiment showed a relative humidity in the different curing- rooms as follows: Tempera- ture. Relative humidity. o p Per cent. Room I . . 37 92 Room II . 48 73 Room III 59 72 It will be observed in the figures later presented that the differ- ence in rate of loss at 50 and 60 was higher toward the end of the experiment than in the earlier stages. This probably means that FIG. 3. Temperature record of 60 curing room. the relative humidity of room III was diminished at this time, bring- ing it down from a moister state to approximately the same humidity as the 50 room. If this was so, this would account for the lessened development of mold at 50, as mold is very sensitive to hygrometric conditions. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS. As there are several factors which affect the rate of shrinkage which the cheese suffers in curing, it will be desirable to discuss the data collected under several heads. The conditions of the experiment 20 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. were >uch as to temperature thtit an especially favorable opportunit v was had for the stud}' of the influence which this factor exerts on the cheese. It is, of course, necessary in a study of this sort to have the cheeses uniform in si/e. The moisture contents of the cheese can not, of course, be made alike, but in this study the cheeses of the same type have been grouped together that is, as firm Cheddars suitable for export and softer, moister cheese intended for home trade. A. INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE ON SHRINKAGE. To study the rate of loss of Cheddar cheese when kept at different temperatures, 121> flats were selected from nine different lots of cheese made by six different makers. 'These were exposed at three different temperatures, which averaged, respectively, 3(>.S . 4(>.!> , and 58.5 F. In each of the tables herewith is given the number of cheeses which were subjected to stated weighings. It will be observed that much more data were collected on the lower temperatures than on the '<> lot. This was regarded necessary, as up to this time we have no pub- lished data on cheese cured at so low a temperature. The following tables give the actual loss in ounces of each lot of cheese, together with the percentage loss for each period observed. In arranging these tables the lots of cheese that were similar in type are placed together. This fact gives much more weight to these fig- ures than to those secured on the smaller lots. For purposes of convenience the different lots of cheese are divided into three types, depending upon their character: I. Firm-bodied cheese (export t3 r pe), of Wisconsin. II. Sweet-curd t\ T pe, as represented by the Iowa and Illinois makes. III. A very moist, soft type, suitable for home trade (Michigan). iij'jirin, htfiii-nl < '/ictldar cheese (type I) cured at different LOT 1. THOS. JOHNSTON, BOA/, KICHLANK COPNTV. WIS. Curing period (days). l.i >v* in weight at different ]HTi<> 26 BO 98 100 123 l.SS 2.55 :t. ir> :;. Til I..V. 51 37 51 54 58 . 7% 1.09 1.16 1.18 11 65 96 2.83 3.73 4.19 6.13 88 112 160 Weights of chee.ses when received _".>'.' It'-. i,,,/ v Number of cheeses weighed 9 If* ll.s. lo/s. '.17 Ihs. 1 (17.. THE COLD CUBING OF CHEESE. 21 Shrinkage of firm, typical Cheddar cheese (type I), rtr. Continued. LOT 2. H. J. NOYES, MUSCODA, GRANT COUNTY, WIS. Curing period (days). Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At -10 F. At 58 F. At60F. 10 Ounces, Per cent. Ounces. Per cent. Ounces. 14 26 Per cent. 0. 912 1.69 16 16 1.07 19 17 0.374 24 28 39 63 71 82 1.87 2.61 4.22 4.75 5.49 50 35 44 44 50 .77 .994 .994 1.12 41 49 56 78 2.67 3.13 3.65 5.09 86 110 158 Weights of cheeses when received. 279 Ibs. 12 ozs. 93 Ibs. 5 ozs. 95 Ibs. 14 ozs. 9 3 3 LOT 3. P. H. KASPER, NICHOLSON, WAUPACA COT'XTY, WIS. 10 Ounces. Per cent. 18 0. 383 Ounces. 13 25 Per cent. 0.845 1.62 Ounces. 11 22 Per cent. 0.716 1.43 20 . .... 26 . 34 ' .724 37 . 34 2.21 41 38 2.47 74 40 .852 50 3.2.5 87 56 3.64 97 45 .951 52 3.38 100 60 78 84 3.90 5.07 5.46 145. . 68 78 4.42 5.06 163 70 1.46 Weights of cheeses when received Number of cheeses weighed 293 Ibs. 8 ozs. 96 Ibs. 2 ozs. 96 Ibs. 1 oz. 9 3 3 As these three makes of cheese agree quite closely in type, a com- posite diagram made from the data collected will indicate more nearly the average results which may be expected than where they are con- sidered separately. The actual losses observed in the three foregoing lots of Wisconsin cheese were first charted individually and from these an average curve constructed, which is represented in figure -L In this and following figures the losses are shown for a period of ninety days only, so that the figures would be on the same scale. 22 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 1 2 ,'> ^^ X'^ ^ x ^ / 2 2 / / -..-* i' _ - -~ " s FIG. 4. Weight losses type I, cured at different temperatures. Shrinkage of sweet-curd cheese (type II} cured at different temperatures. LOT 1. E. J. HODGES, UNION, IOWA. Curing period (days). Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At 40 F. At50F. At60F. 7 Ounces. 35 Per cent. 0.774 Ounces. 23 Per cent. 0.933 Ovneea. 12 22 /'< / a at. 0.852 1.56 17 20 35 1.42 34 51 1.13 32 2.27 37 63 2.55 71 56 1.21 fil 4.33 74 76 86 103 3.07 3.47 4.16 94 69 1.59 08 78 4.68 6.54 145.' 163 85 1.88 Weight of cheeses when received . 282 Ibs. 7 ozs. 154 Ibs. 7 ozs. 88 Ibs. 1 oz. Number of cheeses weighed 9 5 3 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 23 Shrinkage of sweet-curd cheese, (type II) cured at different temperatures Continued. LOT 2. J. B. GILBERT & CO., STERLING, ILL. Curing period (days) . Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At 40 F. At 50 F. At 60 F. 10... Ounces. 22 Per cent. 0.533 Ounces. 26 42 Per cent. 1.11 1.80 Ounces. 15 26 Per cent. 1.08 1.88 20 26 34 .821 37 58 83 92 2.41 3.56 3.94 40 56 2.89 4.13 74 50 62 1.21 1.50 97 100 63 73 4.56 5.29 145 110 4.71 163. . 74 1.79 Weight of cheeses when received. 258 Ibs. 145 Ibs. 13 ozs. 86 Ibs. 4 ozs. Number of cheeses weighed . 9 5 3 A composite curve of this type of cheese was made in a similar manner to that noted in type I (fig. 4), and is represented in figure 5. Shrinkage of wft, moist, home-trade cheese, (type III) cured at different temperatures. LOT 1. A. H. BARBER & CO., MERRILL, MICH. Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At 40 F. At 50 F. At60F. Ounces. 10 6 Per cent. 0.30 Ounces. 6 10 Per cent. 1.15 1.92 Ounces. 5 7 Per cent. 1.05 1.47 20 26 ; 10 .50 37 12 2.30 41 ! 10 15 19 28 2.10 3.15 3.99 5.88 74 14 .70 1.00 16 18 21 3.07 3.46 4.38 100 . } 20 145 | Weight of cheeses when received 125 Ibf . 6 ozs. 32 Ibs. 8 ozs. 29 Ibs. 12 ozs. Number of cheeses weighed 4 1 1 24 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. wil'l, /<' Iff), lit: Continued. LOT !. \. II. KAKBKK A: CO., MKRKILL, MICH. Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At 10" V. At W F. At 60 F. 4 . ... Ounce*. 2 I't'r t'i'iit. 0.10 Ounces. Per cent. Ollilri.i. I'tri'tllt. 10 . 4 8 o. a-?7 1.67 4 7 0.840 1.47 20 26 13 .65 37 11 2.30 41 10 16 20 30 2.10 3.36 4.20 6.30 74 17 9$ .85 1.40 14 18 21 2.92 3.70 4.38 100 145. Weight of cheeses when received Number of cheeses weighed 121 Ibs. 11 ozs. 29 Ibs. 14 ozs. 29 Ibs. 12 ozs. 4 1 1 LOT 3. A. H. BARBER & CO., MERRILL, MICH. 10 '. Ounces. 42 Per cent. 0.538 Ounces. 32 76 102 124 133 Per cent. 0.88 2.08 2.79 3.39 3.67 Ounces. Per cent. 17 0.814 28 1.34 44 2. 10 68 3.25 73 3. 49 20 37 73 82 95 .935 1.05 1.21 74 100 Weight of cheeses when received 487 Ibs. 14 ozs. 228 Ibs. 13 Ibs. 7 ozs. Number of cheeses weighed 15 7 4 LOT 4. A. H. BARBER & CO., MERRILL, MICH. 7 Ounces. 23 Per cent. 0.676 Ounces. 9 l'ir i-int. 0.928 Ounces. 6 11 I't'r ct /it. 1.24 2.28 17 20 . 17 23 28 38 1.75 2.37 2.88 3.92 34 39 47 55 1.14 1.37 1.62 18 29 32 39 3.73 6.02 6. 04 8.09 71 97 145 Weight of cheeses when received Number of cheeses weighed 219 Ibs. 7 o/s. 60 Ibs. i) ozs. 30 Ibs. 9 ozs. 7 2 1 In the four preceding lots of cheese considerable difference in rate of loss will be noticed. This is explained, when it is considered that these lots were exposed during transit period to higher temperatures THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 25 for. varying periods of time, as follows: Lot 1, seventeen days; lot 2, fourteen; lot 3, twelve; and lot 4, seven days. Figure 6 shows a composite curve of the Michigan cheese, which was made in a similar manner to those shown in figures 4 and 5. GENERAL SUMMARY OP LOSSES AT DIFFERENT TEMPERATURES. In figures 4, 5, and 6 the average curves showing losses of the dif- ferent types of Cheddar cheese are shown. Frequently the cheese ,< 60' ,-'' S& / ^ *"" x x / / ^ ^ ' / x / __ . - - " - - 40! ,// - 7 - tP TO 40 30 60 70 80 W DAYS FIG. 5. Weight losses type II, cured at different temperatures. maker wishes to know what these losses would be for stated intervals at different temperatures. With the data at our command it is impossible to answer definitely this question, because of the varying conditions which surrounded the cheese during the transit period, but in the table below the losses which occurred after the cheeses were installed in the respective curing rooms are presented for considera- tion. In this table the average losses for ten days or multiples thereof 20 MTRTCATT OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. are given. Ill constructing this table the data for each lot of cheese were first charted. From the curves BO obtained (lie losses of cadi lot for the periods of ten, twenty, thirty, sixty, and ninety days were DAYS FIG. 6. Weight losses type III. Michigan cheese. taken from the above charts by observation. An average of these losses for each type of cheese is given in the following table: different periods in cheese cured at different temperatures. Daiys. Type I (typical Cheddar). Type II (sweet-curd). Type III (soft). 27 cheeses tested at 40. 11 Hieeses tested tit 60. 9 elieeses tested Mt CO . 9 elieeses ti-sted nt 40. "> cheeses tested .-it 50. 5 cheeses tested nl 60. 30 cheeses tested u( OP. 1 1 elieeses tested nt 50. 7 cheeses tested Ml 60. 10 Per cent. 0.38 .44 .68 .83 1.00 l'i r iTilt. 0.92 1.48 2.00 2.87 3.64 I'll- fl lit. 0.96 1.74 2. 05 2.95 3.57 l'i i- << nl. 0.69 .82 .96 1.15 1.42 l'ir i-i nt. 1.02 i.i;n 2.10 2. 97 3.60 Per cent. 1.1 ir. 1.77 2.29 3.67 4.47 l'i i- r, nt. 0.49 .64 .84 .98 1.21 /' ; fi nt. 0.92 1.89 2.88 2. 98 3.65 l'i r i-i-iil. 0.85 l.::-.i 1.78 2.77 4.02 20 30 60 90 As the number of cheeses of the different types cured at the various temperatures were not the same, the percentage losses given in the above table for the varying periods noted are therefore not entitled to equal weight. The smallest number of elieeses were those exposed at THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 27 60, while nearly 60 per cent of the entire lot were kept at 40. This gives much greater weight to the figures presented in the 40 series. In the table it will be observed that there are some apparent dis- crepancies, especially in the case of the 50 and 60 lots of type III. These discrepancies are undoubtedly explained by the fact that this type of cheese, which was the moistest of the whole lot in the begin- ning, lost more during the longer transit period, and hence the evapo- ration was less than in other types after being placed in cold storage. (1) The losses sustained by the different lots were very much less at 40 F. than at either of the other two temperatures. For a ninety- day period the losses of the 40 cheese ranged from 1 to 1.4 per cent, while the 50 and 60 product shrunk from 3.4 to 4.5 per cent for the same time. In other words, by the use of the lower temperature for curing practically two-thirds of the losses which occurred at the tem- peratures of 50 and 60 were prevented. If these results are com- pared with what happens under ordinary factory conditions, the loss at these low temperatures for a period of ninety days (the minimum curing period recommended) will not be more than one-fourth of that which obtains under average factory conditions when the cheeses are held for a period of about twenty days. The saving for any such fac- tory making 500 pounds of cheese daily would amount to at least 15 pounds of cheese (or $1.50) per day as an average for the season, and considerably more than this for cheese made during hot weather. This saving in itself would go far toward meeting .the extra expense of lower temperature curing, even if the product was no better than that cured at higher temperatures. (2) The differences between the cheese cured at 50 and 60 are not so marked as between 50 and 40. It is quite probable, as before mentioned, that the 50 room was somewhat drier than the 60 (as shown by the lessened mold growth), and hence the rate of loss was abnormally increased in this room. This would tend to bring the two curves nearer together. (3) If the firm Wisconsin type is compared with the softer variety, as shown in types II and III, it appears that the losses are consider- ably less, especially at the higher temperatures, although this differ- ence is not so observable at 40. (4) The above data presented show a marked saving in losses where the cheese was cold cured, but in these experiments it must be remem- bered that the cheese was subjected to higher temperatures during transit, and hence dried out somewhat more than would have occurred if put in storage as soon as removed from the press; also, that this cheese was box-cured, and therefore under conditions which prevented rapid evaporation. Under other conditions the losses would have been greater than represented here, and the difference in the rate of loss between the different lots wider than reported above. This would still further increase the saving. 28 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. B. INFLUENCE OF SIZE AND FORM OF CIIKKSK ON SII KITS' KAOK. In order to study the influence of size of package on shrinkage during curing, lots of two different sizes were purchased from the same source. These two sizes were the customary daisy type, 13 inches in diameter and 3 inches high, weighing about 20 pounds apiece, and the newer type of print cheese, put up in 10-pound blocks (10 by 10 by 2f inches). These cheeses were of the usual Wisconsin Cheddar type, although a little firmer than the Wisconsin flats used in these experiments. On account of this difference in type, it is impossible to compare these cheeses directly with the larger 30-pound size. In the following tables are presented the actual and percentage losses which were noted in the two lots of cheese (daisies and prints) which were purchased from the La Crosse Cheese and Butter Company, of La Crosse, Wis. : Shrinkage of different-sized cheeses cured at different temperatures. LOT 1. PRINTS (10 POUNDS). Curing period (days). Loss in weight at different periods of storage. At 40 F. At50F. At 60 F. 7. Ounces. Per cent. Ounces. 1 PIT cent. 0.62 Ounces. 2 I'fi- c< nt. 1.23 10. 3 0.371 16.. 3 1.82 24.. 4 8 14 16 18 2.46 4.92 8.64 9.88 11.11 41 7 11 14 21 .865 1.35 1.73 2.61 5 9 10 12 3.1 6.59 6.2 7.45 78 100. . . . 167. Weights of cheeses when received Number of cheeses weighed 50 Ibs. 8 ozs. 10 Ibs. 1 oz. 10 UPS. _' <>xs. 5 1 1 LOT 2. DAISIES (20 POUNDS). 7 Ounce*. Per cent. Owncet. 35 72 l'i r fi nt. 0.673 1.38 Ouneet. 25 l'i r ) the loss was prac- tically the same in both sizes of the cheeses. This is probably because the relative humidity at this temperature was practically 100 per cent, and therefore in a saturated atmosphere the rate of evaporation would be reduced to a minimum, regardless of the size of the cheese. % TO 20 30 DAYS FIG. 8. Weight losses. '20-i>omi(l 60 40! To k _ ^^* ^ ^-T$\- ^ __ ~~~ ** ^ 30 DAYS. (0 U Yin. it. Weight losses. Small cheeses. Cured at 40 F. It must be remembered that the entire loss in weight during the curing of cheese is not due to evaporation. A cheese in curing is THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 31 constantly breathing out carbon dioxide the same as any living organ- ism, due to the development of microorganisms (bacterial growth within the cheese as well as molds on surface). Aside from these bio- logical factors, it has recently been shown by Van Slyke and Hart rt that profound proteolytic decompositions also give rise to an appre- ciable amount of CO,. With cheese at 60 F., in which external mold growth was suppressed, they found a loss of approximately one- 10 90 40, 60 DAYS FIG. 10. Weight lasses. Small cheeses. Cured at 50 F. fourth of 1 per cent in ninety days. In our cold-cured cheese, copious mold development occurred, and hence the losses of carbon from the cheese due to this growth would be considerably greater than if no such growth occurred. With the nearly uniform rate of shrinkage shown in these cold-cured cheeses, regardless of size, it is quite prob- lematical whether this loss in weight may not be chiefly due to the operation of the foregoing factors. If this is so, we may consider Bul. No. 231, New York Agricultural Experiment Station, p. 36. BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. DAYS FIG. 11. Weight losses. Small cheeses. Cured at 60 F. 70 NOTE. Figures 9, 10, and 11 should be compared as showing tin- relative; loss of cheeses of different sizes. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 33 such losses as absolutely unavoidable under normal conditions, for the action of microorganisms which can not be suppressed will inevitably result in the production of some volatile products. At the temperatures of 50 and 60, where the relative humidity was below saturation, the factor of evaporation is apparent and is inversely related to the size of the cheese. From a practical point of view, it is worth noting that the losses in both sizes of cheeses cured at 60 are approximately 50 per cent more than they are in the cheese ripened at 50 F. (See Figs. 10 and 11.) C. INFLUENCE OF PARAFFINING CHEESE ON SHRINKAGE DURING CURING. Within the last few years the custom of coating the cheese with an impervious layer has been suggested, with the object mainly of pre- venting the development of mold. For this purpose paraffin has been found to be the most suitable agent. The application of such a layer to the cheese not only prevents the growth of mold spores by excluding the air, but materially retards the rate at which the cheese loses its moisture. Paraffined cheese then dries out much more slowly than the untreated product, and the application of this method is of particular service in the handling of the smaller types of cheeses, which have a relatively larger superficial area exposed to the air. To study the effect of this method of treatment at different temper- atures, a number of the smaller sizes of cheeses (daisies and 10-pound prints) were taken from the same make and part of them covered with paraffin. These were divided into three lots and placed in the different curing rooms, where they were held for a period of several months. In the following table are recorded the data as to the percentage loss in both the paraffined and unparaffined (control) lots: Shrinkage in paraffined and unparaffined cheese cured at different temperatures. 10-POUND PRINT CHEESE. Curing period (days). Loss in weight for different periods of storage. At40F. At 50 F. At60F. Unparaf- fined. Paraffined. Unparaf- fined. Paraffined. Unparaf- fined. Paraffined. Per cent. Per cent. Per cent. 0.62 Per cent. 0.24 Per cent. 1.23 Per cent. 0.603 10 0.37 0.495 16 1.82 .84 24 . 2.46 4.92 8.64 9.88 1.8 2.77 3.01 3.62 41 .865 1.35 1.73 1.06 1.48 1.88 3.1 5.6 6.2 1.45 2.9 3.5 77 100 Number of cheeses tested 5 17 1 5 1 5 4189 No. 4903- IIIRKAU OK ANIMAL INDUSTRY. in paraffined and unparaffined <7/ir*/ m-ri-il l 4 17 1 7 1 / 10 2.0 601 40' 60 DAYS FIG. 12. Weight losses. 20-pound Daisies. Paraffined. 70 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 35 In order to permit a more ready comparison of the above data, the same are presented in graphical form in figures 12 and 13. At 60 F. the application of paraffin resulted in reducing the losses to less than one-half of that which occurred in the unparaffined lot. This difference is naturally more observable in the smaller-sized cheeses (prints). At 20 30 60 t dJ^ DAYS FIG. 13. Weight losses. 10-pound prints. Paraffined. 90 50 this ratio was slightly diminished, but was in the same general direction. At 40 a peculiarity is observable in both the print and the daisy size, in that the paraffined cheese lost a trifle more than the unparaffined lot. We do not think this apparent paradox can be explained on the basis of errors in weighing, as there were five 36 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. unparaffined and seventeen paraffined print cheeses and twenty-four unparaffined and four paraffined 20-pound cheeses in these experi- ments. Also the weighings of these cheeses were made at frequent intervals and in every case the same relation AMIS observed. Further experiments are in progress to test the accuracy of these observations. In the paraffined cheese at 40 the losses were reduced practically to a minimum, as was also the case with the unparaffined at this tempera- ture. As evaporation would certainly be lessened in the paraffined lot, the uniformity of loss between these and the unparaffined still further substantiates the view advanced earlier that these losses are not so much due to shrinkage from evaporation as they are to meta- bolic activities of organisms and possibly chemical transformations within the cheese. PART II. EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE ON QUALITY OF CHEESE. A. COURSE OF CURING AT DIFFERENT TEMPERATURES. Originally it was planned to have the cheese judged by commercial experts, but it was found impossible to arrange for a sufficiently large number of such tests to closely follow the progressive changes which occurred in the course of the ripening of the cheese. Hence, in addi- tion to the examinations made by the jury of commercial experts, the cheese was carefully scored at Waterloo by Mr. Baer at frequent intervals. The full details of these examinations, which include numerical and descriptive scores, as well as the intrinsic value of the cheese at the different periods when it was examined, are presented in the appendix (p. 57.) COURSE OK RIPENING IN TYPE I. This type was represented b} r four different lots of Wisconsin cheese. All of them were well-cooked, firm-bodied, slow-ripening cheese that may be regarded as typical Cheddars. In one case the milk from which the cheese was made was evidently tainted, as the cheese was slightly off at the outset. The results of these periodical scores by Mr. Baer show that good cheese was produced at all temperatures in the first three lots. Natu- rally that cured at 60 developed more rapidly than the goods cured at lower temperatures, but it should be noticed that even at this tem- perature some of the firm-textured cheese went off in five months. At 50 and 40 the cheese was about six weeks to two months behind the 60 in development, but in time it reached as high as the 60 lot, and generally of a better quality, and kept this maximum condition much longer than the 60. This enhanced keeping quality was more pronounced at 40 than at 50. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 37 In the lot made from tainted milk (La Crosse, p. 58) the imperfect condition was pronounced at all temperatures, but was more promi- nent at 60 than below. In studying the detailed scores by Mr. Baer, presented in the appen- dix, it is possible to combine the numerical scores of the four different lots of Wisconsin cheese belonging to the same type and so obtain a set of averages, as to flav r or, texture, and price, which indicate clearly the progress of the curing of these various lots at the different tem- peratures. In the following table these summaries are included: Summary of scores and valves of cheese in type I ( firm export type) . Age (months). Flavor (standard 45). Texture (standard 30). Price (standard 13 cents). 40. 50. 60. 40. 60. 60. 40. 50. 60. 1 33.3 37 41.5 43 43.8 34.3 38.3 42.3 41 35.8 39 42.3 39.5 23.3 26 28.6 29.3 29 22.3 25.3 28.5 29 24.3 26.8 29 27.5 2 10 11.81 12.69 12. 75 10.5 12.4 12 10.8 12.4 11.44 3 5. 8 flavor. The variation in flavor observed at the different tempera- tures is more marked than any other characteristic. This range in flavor is also shown graphically in figure 14. From this it appeal's POINTS^ 45 40 55 30 FIG. 14. Flavor for type I. that at the higher temperatures the flavor is more developed during the earlier ripening stages, but as the cheese increases in age the quality Bl'RKAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. of the flavor at the higher temperatures deteriorates more rapidly than in the cold-cured goods. At the end of live months the 4<> was still improving, and even at this time was higher than at any period with the 50 and 60. At present writing (eight months), the cold-cured cheese is still of excellent quality, and shows no signs of deterioration. Texture. The texture of the cheese followed quite closely a devel- opment similar to that noted tinder "Flavor." In the earlier stages the 60 had the highest score, but it reached its maximum in three months, while the 50 and 40 continued to improve up to the end of the test, and was higher in the 40 at this time than at any time in the 60. This condition is shown in figure 15. POINTS 50 60 MONTHS Fin. 1">. Texture for typo I. Price. Figure 10 presents the range in intrinsic value throughout the test. The improved condition with reference to flavor and texture naturally reappears in this commercial standard, in which the 40 cheese, while developing somewhat more slowly, soon passes both the 50 and 00, and continues to improve while the two latter decline toward the end of the experiment. The beneficial effect of cold-curing on this firm type of cheese is strikingly apparent from the above data and diagrams. Not only was this cold-cured cheese free from any bitterness or taint incident to the curing process, but it was much improved in texture, as is evident from Plate I, which shows the appearance of cheese made from the same vat but cured at approximately 40, 50, and 60 F. When the cheese is cold cured the body is much closer, as the curd particles are subject to more pronounced shrinkage at higher temperatures, which causes the formation of these irregular, ragged cracks. This is per- BULLETIN No. 49, B. A. I. PLATE I. THREE CHEESE SECTIONS TYPE I. Cheese at top cured at -10, in middle at 50, and at bottom at t>0 . BULLETIN No, 49, B. A. I. PLATE II. Two VERTICAL CHEESE SECTIONS TYPE I. Cheese cured at 40 on left and cheese cured at 00 OH right. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 39 haps rendered more obvious in Plates II and III, in which the cheese cured at 40 and 60 are shown. When it is remembered that the results ordinarily obtained in factory curing are not anything, like as satisfactory as those shown in the cheese cured at 60, the improve- ment in quality, as shown by the texture of the cheese cured by the cold-curing process over that now in vogue, is emphasized still more. CENTS. 12 JO \60' MONTH5 FIG. 16. Price for type I. The 50 C cheese stands intermediate between the distinctively cold- cured product and that obtained under best present conditions without artificial refrigeration. Emphasis has already been laid upon the fact that a considerable improvement in quality is to be expected where a slight diminution in temperature is secured over that found in the best type yf factory curing now in vogue. This system of *' cool- curing' 1 t' % at is, the use of a temperature from 52 to 58 C F., as recently advocated by the Canadian authorities" stands midway between the cold-curing process and the system now most frequently in use. The benefits to be gained by this system are evident from the Canadian experiments, iu which 480 pairs of cheeses were cured, one J. A. Ruddick in paper presented at the Ontario Dairymen's Association, Janu- ary, 1903. 40 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. of each lot being kept at 52 to 58, while the other was ripened in an ordinary curing room (01 to 70). Quoting Mr. Ruddick's paper, he POINTS 46 4-0 36 30 A :; >^ ^L t / / / 71 Stfv / / / i / i l I MONTH5 FIG. 17. Flavor for type II. says that "in every case the cool cured (cheese) nas been pronounced the best in quality.'' PO 30 26 22 Po NTS / r_^^ eg.-; % >*d I L 3 MONTHS. FIG. 18. Texture fo From the experiments detailed above it appears that further improvement in quality is possible if the curing temperature is still THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 41 further reduced (40 to 50 F.). It must be remembered in this com- parison that the highest temperature we employed is much lower than the average factory curing room. The difference in quality between cold-cured and ordinary-cured cheese would be much greater than that represented in this work. The cheese of this type at 60 ripened rapidly and showed an excel- lent quality in all lots but one, which was tainted from the beginning, but they all passed their prime in three months and showed marked deterioration by the end of five months. With this type of cheese it must be remembered that the quality of the flavor produced at low temperatures is quite different from that found at 60. Cold-cured cheese possesses a very mild but perfectly clean flavor, together with a solid waxy texture. COURSE OF RIPENING IN TYPE II. The cheese in this type is not so uniform in its make-up as that of type I, but it represents that type of American product in which less acid is developed than is found in the normal Cheddar cheese. This cheese is more open in texture and contains a considerable number of mechanical and small Swiss holes as shown in Plate III. The cheese was somewhat low in flavor, due in all probability to the milk and method of manufacture, and not to the curing, as this defect was quite as apparent at the lower temperatures as at 60. The Iowa cheese was found to be of only fair quality, but at all ages was better at 40 than at other temperatures, although the differ- ence is considerably less than it was with the firmer Wisconsin type of cheese. The Illinois cheese was quite similar to the Iowa lot, but the texture of this cheese at 60 was considerably more impaired than that obtained at the lower temperatures. The following table gives the summary of the scores of these two lots (Iowa and Illinois) taken at intervals during the life of the cheese. Summary of scores of cheese and values in type II (siveet-curd). Age in months. Flavor (standard 45). Texture (standard 30). Price (standard 13 cents). 40. 50. 60. 40. 50. 60. 22 22 23.5 25 40. 50. 60. 1 35 36.5 40 35 9.6 9.75 10.87 10.25 2 37.5 40.5 39 38 40.5 38 23.5 27 26 25 26 26 10 11.7 11 10.25 11.13 10.75 3 In the accompanying diagrams the above tabular data are pictori- ally represented. 42 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. Flavor. Figure 17 shows the course of development of the flavor. While there was not much difference in the maximum flavor produced (one-half point), still the cold-cured cheese maintained a higher flavor than the 60 throughout the whole experiment. The rapid deteriora- tion of the (iO was especially marked. CENTS MONTHS FIG. 19. Price for typo II. Texture. In texture, both the 40 and 50 were much superior to the 60 cheese, as is evident from figure 18. Attention should also be directed in Plate III to the presence of the numerous white specks which only appear in the cold-cured cheese. POI 45 -*& NTS / N ^ ,'* / \ N \ / 2. MONTHS. FIG. 20. Flavor for type III. BULLETIN No. 49. B. A. I. PLATE " * % : ,, A_ . . Two CHEESE SECTIONS TYPE II. Cheese cum! at JO on top, cheese cured at 00 on bottom. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 43 These small spots have always been found in our cheese cured at tem- peratures of 50 and below. Price. The commercial standard shows again the improvement in value and the maintenance of this improved condition for a longer period of time, as is evident from figure 19. COURSE OP RIPENING IN TYPE III. This type represents the softer make of cheese intended for home trade, and one which cures more quickly, and therefore does not keep POIN 30 SQ 6 2f : S2 i j f>{\ TS / ^^-~. ^7 Ac? ^ fcO" / / m I 23 MONTHS. FIG. 21. Texture for type III. as long as the firmer Cheddar type. This type is represented by four different lots of Michigan cheese made at the same factory. They were not of standard quality, but were too acid. The first three lots were materially delayed in transit and consequently had undergone considerable change before being cold-cured. From the detailed data given in the appendix (p. 68-70) it is evident that lot 4 was the best, and in this lot the 40 and 50 were both better than the 60. The average results at the different temperatures are shown in the following table: Summary of scores and values of cheese in type III (soft Michigan cheese). Age (months). Flavor (standard 45). Texture (standard 30). Price (standard 13 cents). 40 50 GO 40 50 60 40 50 60 1 33 37 40.2 37.7 23 23.3 25.3 25.5 9 10.5 11.5 10 2 32.6 39 37.7 35.3 39.5 37 21.7 26. 3 25.8 22.7 26.3 25.5 9.3 11.25 10.4 10.2 11.4 10.2 3 44 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. I 4 ' I vor. In this case the flavor of the 4 lots was poor, only once exceeding 40 points. While the 60 scored higher at one time than the cheese at the other two temperatures, the 40 cheese at five months qqualed the flavor of the higher temperature cheese at this time, as is shown in the table and also in figure 20. Texture. Figure 21 shows graphically the texture scores presented in the above table. The 60 cheese was materially better in the begin- ning, but fell slightly behind at the three months' period. Price. The difference in price of this cheese at three months was inconsequential, and from this date the cheese at all temperatures fell off rapidly in value as shown in figure 22. CENTS. II 10 MONTHS FIG. 22. Price for type III. All four lots of these Michigan goods were more or less delayed in transit, although lot four was no more so than some of the cheese in the other types. But with this moist, quick-curing cheese it was much more susceptible to temperature influences, and hence was materially impaired before being put in storage. This condition, taken in connection with the inferior make (high acid), renders this part of the experiment unsatisfactory. B. EXAMINATION BY COMMERCIAL EXPERTS. In accordance with the plan originally outlined, the cheese in these experiments was subjected to a close examination by a jury of com- mercial experts, who had no knowledge as to the previous treatment THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 45 which the cheese had received. The complete data as to their scores, price assigned, etc., are given in the appendix (p. 57). From these data the following table of averages for each lot of cheese is compiled, including the scores made when the cheese was, respectively, three and five months old: Comparison of average numerical and commercial scores made by jury when the cheese VMS 3 and 5 months old. FIRST JURY TEST (3 MONTHS). At 40. At 50. At 60. Id o (4 O o > ** o O > *[ o' > +2 O K 1 "3 OS 1 a c AH g H 8 Type I (typical Cheddar) . Wisconsin: T. J. Boaz . . . 41.3 25.8 11.8 12.3 43.3 27.6 14.3 12.6 42.3 28.6 14.0 12.4 H. J. N.,Muscoda 42.3 26.3 15 12.2 44.1 27.8 15 12.6 43.6 27.8 15 12.5 P. H. K., Nicholson... 44 28.6 14.8 12.8 44 28.3 14.6 12.6 43 26.3 14.2 12.3 La X, La Crosse 43.3 28.6 14.3 12.6 43 28.3 14.3 12.6 42 27. 3 14. 3 12.3 Total 170.9 109.3 55.9 49.9 174.4 112 58.2 50.4 171.9 110 57.5 49.5 42.7 27.3 1 14 12.5 43.6 28 14.5 12.6 43 27.5 14.4 12.4 Type II (sweet-curd) . Iowa: E. G H. Union 42.6 27.6 13.6 12.3 42.6 26.6 13 12.2 42.6 28 13.2 12.4 Illinois: J. B. G., Sterling 40.6 25.6 14.3 11.2 40 25 14 11.1 40 24.6 14 11.1 Total 83 2 53.2 27.9 23 5 82.6 51.6 27 23 3 82 6 52 6 27 2 23.5 Average 41.6 26.6 13.9 11.7 41.3 26.8 13.5 11.6 41.3 26.3 13.6 11.7 Type III (soft). Michigan: A. H. B., Merrill, I.... 39.6 26.0 13 11.9 40.6 26.6 13 12.2 41 26 13 12.2 A. H. B., Merrill, II... 40.6 26.3 12.5 11.8 41.6 27.6 13.3 12.1 40 26.6 12.6 12 A. H. B., Merrill, III.. 40.3 27.3 13 11.3 42.6 28 13.3 12 40.3 26.3 13 11.5 A. H. B., Merrill, IV.. 42 28 13.6 12.3 41 26.6 12.6 11.8 42 27 12.6 12 Total 162.5 107 6 52 1 47 3 165 8 108 8 52 2 48 1 163 3 105 9 51 2 17 7 Average 40.6 26.9 13 11.8 41.4 r f 13 12 40.8 26.5 12.8 11.9 46 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. ('<>iiil>(irixun of iii-cnif/i' ininnricdl month* <>/K ANIMAL INDUSTRY. (iKNKRAL SUMMARY OI<' THK FIRST (THRKK MONTHS) TKST. The cheese was examined at this date by the commercial judges, as it was thought that the highest temperature cheese (60) had reached its maximum condition. It was naturally expected that the <; goods were marketable, but even at this time this cheese compared favorably with the 60 product. RESULTS OF SECOND JURY TRIAL. The second commercial scoring was made at the end of five months, at which time it was thought that the cold-cured goods could best be judged from a market point of view. The results of this scoring follow: Type I. In the four lots tested of this firm-bodied cheese, the 40 was highest in flavor three times and the 60 once. Averaging the total scores shows that the 40 cheese scored 2.8 points higher than the 00, ajid even the 50 was 1.6 points above the cheese held at what hao been considered ideal curing -conditions. In texture the 40 was highest twice, while in the other cases the scores were equal. Numerically, the average texture of the 40 was nearly a point above the 60. At this age the 60 goods began to show signs of deterioration, while the cold-cured goods kept much better. Type IL In this test one lot of the 60 goods (Iowa) was mislaid in transit, and hence was not tested, but in this case the 40 was "2 points above the 50 in flavor, and 1 point on texture. In the Illinois cheese but little difference was observed. Type III. In this softer cheese, twice the 40 scored highest in flavor, the 50 and 60 once each. On texture the 40 scored highest twice, the 50 once, and the 50 and 60 tied once. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. GENERAL SUMMARY OF SECOND (FIVE MONTHS) TEST. 49 In this test the average score, as well as the number of times any lot has scored the highest, shows that the 40 cheese was superior to those at either of the other temperatures, while at this age the 60 cheese showed that it had passed its prime. The summary of these scores is indicated below: Summary of average scores for types I, II, and III, at fire months. At 40. At 50. At 60. Average scores of nine lots on flavor . 40.65 40. 05 39. Average scores of nine lots on texture 27.0 26. 75 26. 4 Number of times each lot had highest score on flavor 6 1 2 Number of times each lot tied on score on flavor 1 1 Number of times each lot had highest score on texture 2 Number of times each lot tied on score on texture. . . 1 3 i 3 COMPARISON OF THE FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS AS INDICATING THE KEEPING QUALITY OF THE CHEESE. It is important to compare the scores of the commercial judges made at the first and second jury trials, as in this way it is possible to study the keeping quality of the cheese cured at different temperatures. Unfortunately one of the judges could not be present at the second test. Therefore the judgment of the other two has been used in comparing the data of the two tests. The average scores of flavor and texture of these judges, made at the first and second trials, are given below: Comparison of average scores made by the same judge* at the 3 and 5 months' tests. At 40 F. At 50 F. At 60 F. Type. Three months. Five months. Differ- ence. Three months. Five months. Differ- ence. Three months. Five months. Differ- ence. Flavor (standard 1*>). 1 42.4 42.4 40 39. 2 28.4 25.2 26.5 12.6 11.5 11.5 1.5 1.1 a -1.4 1.3 0.4 '' 43.2 41.3 40.8 27.8 25.8 27 12.6 11.6 11.9 41.2 39.2 39.2 28 25.2 26.2 12.5 11.3 11.6 2 2.1 1.6 2 42.5 41 40.4 27.2 26 26 . 12.4 11.7 11.9 39.6 39 38.4 27.5 25 25.7 12.2 11 11.4 2. 2 2 -0.3 1.0 0.3 0.2 0.7 0.5 II 41 5 III... . 40 3 Texture (standard 30). I 27 II 26 5 0.6 0.8 0.1 0.3 0.3 III. ... 26 1 Price (standard, 13 cents).' I !> 4 II 11.7 -0.2 0.1 III 11 6 Where quality improved with age instead of deteriorating, it is indicated in column of difference by the use of the minus sign. 4189 No. 4903 4 50 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. The above table is instructive in showing the progress of the curing at three and five months periods. T;ijK' J. With reference to flavor, type I showed its better keeping qualities, inasmuch as it held its own at 40^, while at 50 the cheese had deteriorated 2 points and at (50 2.!> points. The texture improved at all temperatures as the age increased, but was much more pronounced (over a point) at 40 than at 50 U or 00 . This improvement in flavor and texture is also reflected in the enhancement in commercial value. The 40 gained 0.2 cent per pound in three to five months, while the 50 fell off 0.1 cent and the 60 0.2 cent per pound. Thus in all ways the advantage of cold curing is evident on this firm, solid type of the Wisconsin cheese. Type II. In this type, in which less acid was developed than in the typical Cheddar type, the deterioration in flavor was less at 40 than at either 50 or 60. In texture, however, all scored lower at five months, the data showing a wider difference at 40 than at the other two temperatures. In price, however, the cheese was considered to be worth 0.2 cent per pound more at 40. while the 60 cheese had depreciated 0.7 cent. Type ILL. In the softer Michigan make, in which more rapid dete- rioration would bo expected, the falling off in flavor was 2 points at 60 as against 1.1 points at 40. In texture the 40 improved 0.4 point, while the oth,)r two depreciated 0.8 and 0.3 point, respectively. In price, all these goods were of less value at five months than at three, but they had depreciated 0.5 cent at 60 and only 0.1 cent at 40. Summarizing the above, there can be no question but that the keep- ing quality of all of these various types of American cheese is improved by curing them at these lower temperatures. This is more evident with the firm, solid Wisconsin type of Cheddar than with the softer, quick-curing goods; but even these can be held with less deterioration at these temperatures than is possible under present curing conditions. SUMMARY OF EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE ON QUALITY. As the three different types of cheese represented in these experi- ments varied so much in character, it will be fairer to state the con- clusions with relation to each separately. The scores on these lots of cheese were made separately by our own cheese expert throughout the whole curing period, and also at stated intervals by the commercial judges. Type I (Jim i -bodied, typical Cheddar cheese). At 60 F. flavor developed more 'rapidly than at lower temperatures, but the maximum score at this temperature, as indicated by Baer, was equaled or exceeded by the maximum score at 50 or 40. In the scoring made by the THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 51 commercial jury the 50 C averaged 0.6 point higher than the 60', when cheese was 3 months old. When 5 months old, the 40 was 2.8 points higher than the 60, and the 50-1.6 points higher. In texture the course of development was quite the same, the judges scoring the 50 ahead at 3 months, but at 5 months the -0 averaged nearly a point higher than the 60. Type II (sweet-curd type). In this low-acid cheese the course for ripening followed the same rule as in the above type, although this cheese was inferior in quality to the preceding type. Tyj)e III (soft home-trade type). The results on this quick-curing type of cheese were affected by the delay in transit, which permitted of a considerable degree of ripening before the cheese was put in the curing rooms. In this type of cheese the improvement was less marked, but when the enhanced keeping quality is considered, the cold- curing process was found to be advantageous even under these advanced conditions. C. INFLUENCE OF PARAFFINING ON QUALITY OF CHEESE. With the use of lower temperatures for curing, a higher degree of saturation of the atmosphere is always found, which greatly promotes the development of mold, and this growth injures the salability, though not the quality, of the cheese, and hence many attempts have been made to overcome the difficulty. The most efficient method yet proposed is to coat the surface of the cheese with an impervious layer, which, by excluding oxygen, prevents development of molds. For this purpose the cheeses are immersed in a bath of melted paraffin, which, upon cooling, adheres closely to the surface. While this effectually accom- plishes the desired end, it is a question of importance whether the quality of the cheese so treated is affected prejudicially or not. It is possible to conceive that the retention of all volatile decomposition products within the cheese might injure the flavor of the product. In these cheese-curing experiments it was thought advisable to insti- tute a series of trials to determine what influence paraffining had on the quality, as shown by the flavor and texture scores. For this pur- pose the cheese which was used in the experiments on shrinkage (La Crosse lot) was scored by Mr. Baer, and was also submitted to the experts for scoring at the regular periods. These scores are to be found in the appendix (pp. 58 and 6-), but, in order to permit of a more 52 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. read}' comparison, a summary of the flavor and texture scores of the paraffined and the normal cheese is presented in the following table: Comparative scores of paraffined and unparafflned cheese (as the temperature is lowered, and in our experiments at 40 F. was practically independent of the si/e. This condition, however, was undoubtedly attributable to the relative humidity of the curing room. which at 40 F. was 100 ptr cent. (4) Influence of paraffin. By coating the cheese with melted paraf- fin the losses at 60 were reduced more than one-half at r><> ; the sav- ing was somewhat less, and at 40 the losses observed on the paraffined cheese of both sizes used were slightly in excess of those noted on the uncoated cheese. (5) As some loss occurs even in a saturated atmosphere, where evap- oration is presumed not to take place, it implies that the shrinkage in weight of cheese under these conditions is not wholly due to desicca- tion, but is possibly affected by the production of volatile products that are formed by processes inherent in the curing of cheese. EFFECT ON QUALITY. (6) The three types of cheese above referred to can scarcely be com- pared closely with each other, as they were so different in their make-up and subjected to somewhat different conditions during transit. By far the most satisfactory portion of the experiment is that which relates to type I, in which the best quality of cheese was represented. With these firm, typical Cheddars the influence of temperature on curing could best be studied. This cheese was also placed in storage nearer the press than any of the other types, and hence the test as to the effect of the curing temperature was more satisfactory. In this type the 60 cheese was of excellent quality and naturally developed faster than the cold-cured goods, but in time it was surpassed by the cheese at the lower temperatures (.'>( and 4<> ). and. when the keeping qual- ity of the latter was taken into consideration, it was found to be supe- rior in every way to that cured at <>0. Even when the condition of the milk was not entirely perfect, the quality of the cold-cured cheese was better, although the original taint was not removed. With the sweet-curd (type II) and the soft home-trade cheese (type THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 55 III) the effect of the disturbing influences previously noted rendered it impossible to obtain as satisfactory results, but, even under these adverse conditions, the 40 and 50 cheese generally ranked better than the 60, and, when keeping quality was taken into consideration, was materially better. This same cheese was also scored independently b\ commercial experts when three and five months old. The results obtained conform very closely to those mentioned above, and indicate the superiority of the cold-cured product (either at 50 or 40) in comparison with the cheese cured at 00. This improvement in quality reflects itself also in the commercial values which were placed upon the cheese cured at different temperatures, both by our own expert and also by the commercial judges. In this low-temperature-cured cheese the flavor was remarkably mild but clean, and was free from all trace of bitterness or other taint. The texture was fine and silky and the body close. (7) Keeping quality. The keeping quality of the cold-cured cheese far excels that of the cheese ripened at higher temperatures. The better types of cheese cured at -0 F. are at present writing (eight months) still in their prime, while the 60 cheese has long since greatly deteriorated. (8) Effect of paraffin on quality. Portions of two lots of cheese were paraffined as they came from the press, but were otherwise handled the same as the unparaffined cheese. The results obtained showed that paraffining did not prejudicially affect their quality at any temperature. As paraffining greatly reduced the shrinkage, the bene- ficial effect of the system is obvious. The rapid introduction of the method in commercial practice further attests its value. (9) The production of a thoroughly broken-down Cheddar cheese of mild, delicate flavor and perfect texture meets a demand which is impossible to satisfy with cheese cured at high temperatures. With- out anj- question, if the general market can be supplied with this mild, well-ripened cheese, consumption will be greatly stimulated, not only by increasing the amount used by present consumers, but by largely extending the use of this valuable and nutritious article of food. (10) The improvement in quality of cold-cured cheese, the enhanced keeping quality, and the material saving in shrinkage due to lessened evaporation are sufficient to warrant a considerable expenditure on the part of cheese producers in installing cold-curing stations. The principle of increasing cost of equipment to lessen cost of pro- duction or augment gross earnings is recognized as a sound financial method by all large enterprises, and, while the expense involved is considerably more than is incurred under existing conditions, yet the advantages enumerated more than compensate for such expense where carried out under proper conditions. 56 ItUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. (11) This system is particularly applicable where the product of a number of factories can be handled atone point, and such consolidated curing stations must be established before the cold-curing prorrs> <-;ui be economically introduced. Such stations are now successfully used in a number of localities. The greatest advantage will undoubtedly accrue from the use of this system of curing with summer-made cheese, but the process is equally applicable to cheese made at any season of the year. APPENDIX. In the following appendix are given the original data collected in the series of examinations made by Mr. Baer and the commercial experts. From these data are compiled the summaries which are presented in the text of the foregoing bulletin. Re.mllH of examinations l>y Mr. Baer during progress of curing cheese 'in type I (firm, export Cheddar type). LOT 1. THOS. JOHNSTON, BOAZ, HIGHLAND COUNTY, Wis. NOTE. The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-curing station: Flavor, clean but low; body, close: texture, curdy but meaty; curd particles well cemented; color, straight, even; cheese, well made. Curing temper- ature. Age of cheese when ex- amined. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Commer- cial value (stand- ard, 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard, 45). Texture (stand- ard, 30). Color (stand- ard, 15). Flavor. Texture and body. Color. 40 F .... 50 F .... 60F .... MmitliK. 1 2 3 5 8 1 2 3 5 1 2 3 I 5 35 37 40 42 45 38 40 42 38 38 43 44 36 24 27 29 29 29 22 24 28 29 24 25 29.5 27 16 14 14 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Flat, low . . . Flat Clean, low.. Curdy O. K Curdy Smooth Streaked . . . Wavv. 9 10.5 12.5 13 Clean Stiff O. K.. Clean, high. Low Stiff, close . Stiff O. K.. O. K Low Stiff O. K 10.5 12.5 11.5 11.5 13 10.5 Low Waxy O. K . Tainted Loose O. K Flat Flat Stiff Stiff O.K O. K Clean Silky O K Off Loose O K LOT 2. H. J. NOYES, MUSCODA, GRANT COUNTY, Wis. NOTE. The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-cur- ing station: Flavor, clean; body, close, meaty; texture, smooth; color, bright, straight, natural amber; curd particles firmly cemented; not so dry and firm as lot 1. Months. 1 35 20 15 Flat, low Curdy O. K 2 37 21 15 Flat Curdy OK.. 10 40 F 3 41 26.5 15 Clean Smooth O.K 11.75 5 8 45 45 30 30 15 15 Clean, high. Clean, high. Silky Silky O.K O.K 13.25 13.25 1 35 21 15 Low . Curdv Dull 2 35 22 15 Low . Curdy Dull 10 50F 3 42 27 14 Clean . . . Mealv . Dull 12 5 44 30 15 Clean, high. Silky O. K 13 1 35 20 14 Low Curdv Dull 2 38 25 15 Low Curdy Dull fiOF 3 44 29.5 15 Clean high Smooth O K . 13 5 44 29 15 Clean high. Silky O K 13 57 58 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. Result* <>f ,.n/nihuiti(inx lj Mr. Jiarr durinrj pror/ress of cnrinij export Cheddar type) Continued. LOT 3. P. H. KASPER, NICHOLSON, WAUPACA COUNTY, Wis. In ////' / i linn, NOTE. The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-curing station: Flavor, high and clean; body, close and meaty; texture, smooth and silky; color, a splendid light amber, clear and straight; boxed and packed in excellent shape; cheese arrived in splendid condition; neatly bandaged and perfectly made; the finest cheese placed in storage. Curing temper- ature. Age of cheese when ex- aminod. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Commer- cial value (stand- ard , 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard, 45). Texture (stand- ard, 30). Color (stand- ard, 15). Flavor. Texture and body. Color. 40 F 60 F 60 F Month*. 2 5 8 1 2 3 5 1 2 3 5 40 45 45 45 26 30 30 29 15 15 15 16 Clean Smooth O. K 12 18 I ::. -!.-> 13 Clean Clean Clean, high. Clean Silky Silky Close, meaty. Curdy O.K O.K O.K O K 43 45 44 42 45 43 43 28 80 30 27 30 28 29 15 15 15 15 15 15 14 Clean Smooth O.K It 6 13 13 12 13 12 12. 75 Clean Silky O.K Clean Clean Silky Smooth O.K O K Clean Smooth Loose O.K O.K Clean Clean Silky O.K LOT 4. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. NOTE. -The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-curing station; Flavor, not clean; body, close meaty; color, O. K.; cheese well made; the only fault found with this goods was the objectionable flavor, resembling that resulting from frozen feed. 20-pound (l(tixi<',*. Months. 1 30 23 12 Curdv O. K ... 2 34 2(> 12 Tainted Wa \ v O. 1C . . . . y 40 F 3 40 29 14 Tainted Waxv Wavv 12 5 40 28 13 Low Close Wavv .... 11.75 8 1 2 40 30 35 28 24 27 14 12 l'> Off, flat Tainted Tainted Fair Curdy StilT . Wavy 0. K O. K 11.75 9 50F .... 5 40 29 1 1 Tainted Waxv .. O. K 12 38 27 13 Tainted Waxy Molded 10.5 ] 28 26 13 Tainted () K 2 30 27 14 Tainted \\a\v O K g 60 F .... 3 38 H) 14 Tainted OK. 11.5 10 Qgjn Faded l ) 5 THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 59 Results of examinations b>j Mr. Boer during progress of curing cheese in type I (firm, export Cheddar type) Continued. LOT 5. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, Wis. NOTE. The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-curing station: Flavor, clean but low; texture, good; color, O. K.; cheese well made and of fine quality. 10-pound prints. Curing temper- ature. Age of cheese when ex- amined. Numerical scores. Descriptivo scores. Commer- cial value (stand- ard, 13 cents) . Flavor (stand- ard, 45). Texture (stand- ard, 30). Color (stand- ard, 15). Flavor. Texture and body. Color. 40F 50 F COF Months. 1 2 3 8 1 l ( 3 11 2 3 38 38 43 42 38 41 43 40 42 44/5 22 25 27 27 24 26 27 25 27 29. 5 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 ;: 15 Clean Curdv O. K Clean Clean Curdy O. K O. K 10 12 12 Not clean... Clean Mealy Curdy 0. K O. K . Clean. Curdv O. K 10.5 12.75 Clean Smooth . O. K . .. Clean Curdv O. K_. Clean Smooth O. K 12. 75 13 Clean, high. Smooth O. K LOT 6. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, Wis. NOTE. The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold-curing station: Flavor, not clean; body, close, meaty; color, O. K.; cheese well made, put up in neat, attractive form. 20-pound paraffined daisies. ifrmlhs. 1 j ( 1 Low Curdy : O. K 2 30 22 15 Low Curdy O.K...- 'J 40 F 3 43.5 29. 5 15 Clean Waxv O. K 1:3 40 29 14 Low Waxy O. K . 12 g 40 29 12 Off Waxv open Mottled 11 75 f 1 Low Curdv O. K 2 33 23 15 Low Curdv j enriiii/ rlii'i'x*' in ti//>e III (xoftj home-trade I ;//') Continued. LOT 4. A. H. BAHBKR & Co., MKKKIIJ,, MICK. NOTK The following observations were made by Mr. Baer upon receipt of the cheese at cold- curing station: Flavor, low but clean; body, loose; texture, short, cheese \vas soft: showed excess of moisture on rinds; boxes badly broken; cheese quite moldy. Curini,' tempera- ture. Age of cheese when ex- amined. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Commer- cial value 1 standard 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 15). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture and body. Color. 40F.... 50 F .... 60F .... Months. 1 2 3 5 1 2 3 6 1 2 3 5 Acidv Short Wnvv 35 43 40 22 29 27 14 14 12 Acidy Low Curdy Waxy Wavy 9.5 12.75 10.75 Wnvv Low Loose Cut . Aeidy Short Wavy. 38 43 42 35 38 42 38 22 26 28 24 22 26 25 13 13 12 13 13 12 12 Acidy Short Wavy 11 12 11.75 10 11. 5 12 10.5 Flat Short Wavv. Clean. Loose Cut . Acidy Short Wn w Acidy Short Wavv.. Flat Short Sour Loose Cut SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS. Tiji>e I (jinn c.i'port Chedddr ti/pe}. LOT 1. THOS. JOHNSTON, BOAZ, HIGHLAND COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (cheese 3 month* old). Curing tempera- ; Judges, ture. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores, Price Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. (stand- <""" a;;: 40 F .... 50F .... 60 F .... White 43 41 40 28.5 27 22 13.5 12 10 Clean.... Low Clean Waxy .. Salvy . . . Pasty . . . Specks..' 12 Mottled. 12.75 Mottled. 12.2.-I Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 41.3 25.8 11.8 12. 33 Perfect . . Clean Clean Silky ... Waxy .. Waxy .. 45 44 41- 29 28 26 15 14 14 O.K .... 12. 5 O.K.... 12. 5 O.K.. 12.7:> 12.58 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White .. 43.3 27.6 14 3 Clean Tiiintcil . Clean Smooth . Silky... Smooth . 43 42 42 29 29 28 14 14 14 O.K.... 12. 25 O. K . . . . 12 0. K .... 13 Kirkpatrick Millar Averairc . . . 42. 3 28.6 14 12. 41 THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 63 SCORES KY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS Continued. Type I (firm export Cheddar type} Continued. LOT 1. THOS. JOHNSTON, BOAZ, HIGHLAND COUNTY, Wis. Second jury trial (cheese 5 months old). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (stand- ard, 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. Color. 40 F 50F 60 F 1 White 44 43 29 28 15 15 Clean Flat ..... Waxy .. Loose... O.K.... O.K.... 12.75 12.75 Millar Average White 43.5 28.5 15 12.75 Bitter.... Bitter Smooth . Loose... O.K.... 0. K.... 40 40 29 28 15 15 12.5 12.5 Millar Average White 40 28.5 15 12.5 Off Smooth. Smooth . O.K.... 0. K.... 39 38 29 28 15 15 12.5 12.25 Millar Off Average 38.5 28.5 15 12. 375 LOT 2. P. H. KASPEK, NICHOLSON, WAUPACA COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (clieesc 3 months old). 40 F .... 50F .... 60F .... (White 44 29 29 28 14.5 15 15 Clean Clean... Waxy .. Silky ... O. K.... O. K.. 12.75 12.75 12.75 Kirkpatrick 45 Millar 43 Clean Waxy .. O. K.... Average 44 28.6 14.8 12. 75 Clean Clean.... Clean Silky... Waxy .. Loose... 0. K.... 0. K.... 0. K.... White . 44 29.5 28.5 27 14.5 14.5 15 12. 75 12.5 12. 75 Kirkpatrick ' 45 Millar 43 Average , 44 28.3 14.6 12.6 Clean Flat Loose... Pastv O. K.... O. K White 44 27 27 25 14.5 14 14 12.5 12 12.25 Kirkpatrick 43 Millar ' 42 Flat Salvy... O. K.... Average 43 26.3 14.16 12.25 LOT 2. P. H. KASPER, NICHOLSON, WAUPACA COUNTY, Wis. Second jury trial (cheese 5 months old). 40 F 50F 60F White 44 29 27 15 15 Clean Smooth. O.K.... O K 13 12. 12 Millar ... . 38 Average 41 28 15 12.56 Bitter Smooth. Clean Smooth. O.K.... O.K.... 1 White 43 29 28 15 15 13 12. 25 Millar 40 Average 41.5 28.5 15 12.62 Sharp Smooth. Clean Smooth. O.K.... O.K.... Fite 42 29 28 15 15 13 12.5 lar 42 Average 42 28.5 15 12.75 64 BUKEAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SKCOXD JURY TRIALS Continued. Type I (firm export Cheddar type) Continued. LOT 3. H. J. NOYES, MUSCODA, GRANT COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (cheese 3 months old). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (stand- ard, i:; cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. Color. 40 F .... 60 P White 42 44 41 28 27 24 15 15 15 Flat Clean Flat Pasty... Salvy... Salvy O.K.... O.K.... O. K J2 12. 25 12.25 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 42.3 26.3 15 12.16 Perfect .. Clean.... Clean.... Silky... Waxy .. Waxy .. O.K.... O. K O.K.... 44.5 45 43 29 28.5 26 15 15 15 12. 75 12.5 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar 60 F .... \ Average White 44.1 27.8 15 12.58 43 45 43 28.5 29 26 15 15 15 Clean Clean Silky . . . Silkv O.K.... O K 12.5 12.5 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar . . Clean.... Silky . . . O.K.... Average 43.6 27.8 15 12.5 LOT 3. H. J. NOYES, MUSCODA, GRANT COUNTY, Wis. Second jury trial (cheese 5 months old). 1 White 44 29 15 Clean O K 13 Millar 44 30 15 Clean Waxy O K 13 Average 44 29.5 15 13 White 44 28 15 O K 13 Millar ... . 43 29 15 Clean Waxy O K 12 75 Average 43.5 28.5 15 12 87 1 White 44 29 15 Clean Waxy O K 13 60F Millar... 42 27 15 Clean.... Loose... O. K .... 12. 5 Average 43 28 15 12 75 LOT 4. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (cheese 3 months old). White 44 29 14 Waxy O K 12 75 40 F .... Kirkpatrick Millar 44 42 29 28 15 14 (Mean Tainted Salvy . . . O.K.... O K 12.75 12 5 Average 43.3 28.6 14.3 12.6 White 44 29 14 Clean Waxy O K 12 75 Kirkpatrick 44 29 15 Clean Waxy O K 12 7o 50 F .... Millar 41 27 14 Tainted O K 12 5 Average 43 28.3 14.3 12.6 White 43 28 14 Flat O K 12 5 60F .... Kirkpatrick Millar 43 40 28 26 15 14 High.... Tainted Silky... O. K.... O K 12.25 12 Average 42 27.3 14.3 12.25 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 65 SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS Continued. Type I (firm export Cheddar type} Continued. LOT 4. LA CBOSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CKOSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. Daisies. Second jury trial (cheeses months ohl). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (stand- ard, 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. Color. 40.F 50F 1 White 40 42 28 27 13 14 Flat Flat ..... Pasty . . . Loose... Wavy... O. K.... 12 12.25 Millar Average .... (White 41 27.5 13.5 12. 12 Flat Tainted . Salvy--. Salvy... Wavy... Faded . . 40 40 28 25 12 13 11.75 12 JMillar 60F Average 1 White 40 26.5 12.5 11.87 Off Loose... Salvy... Faded . . Faded . . 35 35 25 25 13 13 11 11 Millar Tainted . Average 35 25 13 11 LOT 5. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (cheese 3k months old). 40 F 50F 60F White 44 43 42 28 28 27 14 15 13.5 Clean Clean Clean Waxy .. Waxy .. Waxy .. O.K.... O.K.... Wavy... 12.5 12.5 12. 25 Kirkpatrick . Millar Average White 43 27.6 14.1 12.41 Flat Clean Clean, low Waxy .. Waxy .. Smooth . O.K.... O.K.... O.K.... 43 44 43 28 28 28 14 15 14 12.5 12.5 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar . . Average White 43.3 28 14.3 12 5 Flat Clean Clean Smooth . Waxy .. Smooth . O.K.... O.K.... O.K.... 43 43 42 28 29 28 14 15 14 12.5 12.5 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average 42.6 28.6 14.3 12 5 LOT 6. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. * First jury trial (cheese 3 months old). 40 F .... 50F .... 60 F .... White .. 44 44 42 29 29 28 14 15 14.5 Clean Clean.... Tainted . Waxy .. Waxy .. Waxy .. O. K.... O. K.... O. K.... 12.75 12. 75 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 43.3 28.6 14.53 12. 6 Clean Clean.... Tainted . Smooth. Waxy .. Salvy... O. K.... 0. K.... 0. K.... 44 44 41 29 29 28 14 15 14.5 12. 75 12. 75 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 43 28.6 14.5 12.6 43 41 40 28 14 28 15 27 14 Flat Tainted . Tainted . Smooth. Pasty . . . Salvy . . . 0. K.... O. K.... 0. K.... 12.5 12 12.25 Kirkpatrick Millar Average 41.3 27.6 14.3 12. 25 ,11 QO XT~ ^0 AQ K 66 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SK< oxn JURY TRIALS Continued. Type I (firm export Cheddar type) Continued. LOT 6. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSK COUNTY, Wis. Second jury trial (cheese 5 month* old). Curing tempera- ture. Numerical scores. I>cscri|>tive scores. Price (stand- ard, 13 (Tills.. Judges. Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- Flavor, ard 15). Texture. Color. 40F .... 50F .... 60F .... 1 White 43 26 28 14 13 Flat Low Smooth. Salvy... 0. K.... Wavy .. 12. 5 IS Millar '.. 40 Average 41.5 27 13.5 12. Fhite . . . 42 26 27 12 13 Flat Low Waxy .. Salvy . . . Specks . Wavy .. 12 11.75 illar 39 Average 40. 5 26.5 12.5 11.87 Flat Low Smooth . Loose . . . Wavy .. Wavy .. 1 White I 41 25 26 10 13 11.75 11.5 Millar 38 Average 39. 5 25.5 11.5 11.62 LOT 7. LA CROSSE CHEESE AND BUTTER Co., LA CROSSE, LA CROSSE COUNTY, Wis. First jury trial (cheese 3 iimiitltx <>ltl\ . White 44 29 14 Clean \Va x v O. K 12 75 Kirk patrick 43 28 15 Clean Wa \ v OK 12 6 40 F Millar 43 28 14 < > K 12 75 Average 43.3 28.3 14.3 12 6 White 43 29 14 Flat OK 12 75 50F Kirkpatrick Millar 44 43 28 29 15 14 Clean Waxy .. Wa \ v o. K.... 12.75 ( > K 1 75 Average .... 43.3 28. 6 14.3 12 75 White 44 29 14 \\a\v (> K 12 75 60F Kirkpatrick Millar 43 43 29 2S 15 11 Clean.... Clean Waxy .. i>. K.... 12.5 OK 12 75 Average 43.3 28. 6 14.3 1 12 6 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 67 SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS Continued. Type II (sweet-curd type). LOT 1. E. G. HODGES, UNION, IOWA. Fir gt jury trial (cheese S months old). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (stand- ard, 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. Color. 40 F .... 50 F .... 60F .... White 43 43 42 28 27 ' 28 13 14 13 Flat..... Clean Clean Stiff .... Waxy .. Waxy .. Wavy... O. K.... O. K.... 12.25 12 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 42.6 27.6 13.6 12.25 Flat Clean.... Clean Waxy .. Waxy .. Waxy .. Wavy... Wavy... Wavy... 43 43 42 26 27 27 13 13 13 12 12 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average White 42.6 26.6 13 12. 16 Flat Clean Clean Stiff .... Waxy .. Waxy .. Wavy... Wavy... Wavy... 43 43 42 28 28 28 13 13.5 13 12.25 12.5 12.5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average 42.6 28 13.16 12.4 LOT l. E. G. HODGES, UNION, IOWA. Second jury trial (cheese 5 months old). White 43 25 12 Low Mealy . . Wavy... 12 Millar 40 27 14 Low Salvv . . . Dull 12 Average 41.5 26 13 12 White 41 25 12 Off Loose. . Wavy. 11.5 Millar . .. 38 25 14 Low Weak... Dull 11.5 Average 39 5 25 13 11.5 Lor 2. J. B. GILBERT & Co., STERLING, ILL. First jury trial (cheese 3 months old). White 39 25 14 Low Pasty . . . O. K 11 UP F Kirkpatrick Millar 42 27 41 25 15 14 Low Low Loose... Pasty . . . 0. K.... O. K 11.5 11 Average 40.6 j 25.6 14.3 11.16 White 40 25 14 Low Pastv .. O. K.... 11 JOF Kirkpatrick Millar 40 25 40 25 14 14 Low Low Salvy... Pastv . . . 0. K.... O. K.... 11.25 11 Average 40 25 14 11.08 White 40 25 14 Flat Pasty . . . O. K 11 50F Kirkpatrick Millar 41 26 39 23 14 14 Low Pasty... 0. K.... O K 11.25 11 Average 40 24 6 14 11.08 68 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUDGES AT THE COMMERCIAL TEST MADE AT FIRST AND SECOND JURY TRIALS Continued. Type II (sweet-curd type) Continued. LOT 2. J. B. GILBERT & Co., STERLING, ILL. Second jury trial (cheese 5 months old). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (stand- ard, 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 45). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15) . Flavor. Texture. Color. 40 F .... 50F .... 60 F .... (White 39 38 24 25 13 14 Low Low Salvy . . . Salvy . . . Wavy... O.K.... 11 11 JMillar 1 Average 1 White 38.5 24.5 13.5 11 Low Low Pasty . . . Loose Wavy... O. K 39 39 25 26 13 14 11.25 11 Millar Average 1 White 39 25.5 13 5 11.12 Bitter Low Salvy... Loose Wavy... O. K ... 38 40 24 26 13 14 11 n Millar Average 39 25 13.5 11 Type III (soft home-trade type) . LOT 1. A. H. BARBER & Co., MERRILL, MICH. First jury trial (cheese 3 months old). Curing tempera- ture. Judges. Numerical scores. Descriptive scores. Price (standard 13 cents). Flavor (stand- ard 40). Texture (stand- ard 30). Color (stand- ard 15). Flavor. Texture. Color. 40 F 50F 60F White 38 41 40 25 28 25 13 13 13 Tainted . Acidy ... Tainted . Salvy . . . Pasty . . . Salvy . . . 0. K.... O. K.... O. K.... 11.75 12 12 Kirkpatrick Millar Average . . . White 39.6 26 13 11.9 Tainted . Acidy ... Tainted . Salvy . . . Pasty . . . Salvy . . . O. K.... O. K.... <>. K.... 38 43 41 25 29 26 13 13 13 11.76 12.5 12.26 Kirkpatrick Millar Average . . . White 40.6 26.6 13 12.16 Tainted . Acidy ... Low Salvy . . . Waxy .. Pasty... O. K.... 0. K.... 0. K.... 40 42 41 26 27 25 13 13 13 12 12.25 12.26 Kirkpatrick Millar Average . . . 41 26 13 12. 16 LOT 1. A. H. BARBER O K 11 25 Average 40.3 26.3 13 11.5 70 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. SCORES BY INDIVIDUAL JUD<;KS AT THI: COMMKUCIAI, TKST MADK AT FIHXT AND SK< -\\> Jim TRIALS Continued. TI//H III (soft home-tnulf 1i/j>r) Continued. LOT 3. A. H. BARBER ct Co., MKKKII.L, Mirn. Secoml jury trinl (i-htw ~> mnnl/is <>!; 13 13 12 11.25 12 12 Kirkpatrick Millar .... Average White 41 26.6 12.6 11.75 Flat Clean Flat Mealy .. Mealy.. I'asty... . Cnt Wavy... Wavy... 41 43 42 26 28 27 12 13 13 11.5 12,33 12. .'5 Kirkpatrick Millar Average 42 27 12.6 12 ! LOT 4. A. H. BARBER & Co., MERRII.I,, MICH. Si,-in,il jury trial (cheese fi months itlili. White 43 26 10 Flat Mealy Cut 12 25 40 F Millar 43 28 14 Clean Smooth Cut 1'i 25 Average 43 27 12 12. 25 White 43 27 11 Flat Smooth Cut 12 5 50 F .... Millar 42 28 14 Flat Cut 12 Average 42.5 27.5 12.5 12. 25 White 41 25 g Flat Mealy Wavy- 11 75 60 F Millar 40 25 13 \cidy Pastv Cut 11 75 Average 40.5 25 11 11.75 EASTERN EXPERIMENTS, 1902-03. Conducted by L. L. VAN SLYKE, G. A. SMITH, and E. B. HART, Of the New York Agricultural Experiment Station. SUMMARY. (1) Object of experiment. The investigation was undertaken by the United States Department of Agriculture in cooperation with this station, its object being to study, on a commercial scale under com- mercial conditions, the influence of different temperatures upon the cheese during the curing process. (2) Plan of experiment. Cheese was secured which represented the product of the States of New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, and placed in cold storage at the temperatures of 40, 50, and 60 F. These were examined commercially by a committee of experts when first placed in cold storage, and later after being in cold storage ten, twenty, twenty-eight, and thirty-five weeks. Cheeses of different sizes were used, weighing TO, 65, 45, 35, and 12 pounds. Also, in one case, cheeses were covered with a coating of paraffin. Chemical analyses were made at intervals. (3) Loss of weight. The loss of weight increased with increase of temperature, being on an average in twenty weeks 3.8 pounds per 100 pounds of cheese at. 40 F., 4.8 pounds at 50 F., and 7.8 pounds at 60 F. The large-sized cheeses lost less weight per 100 pounds than those of smaller size. (4) Results of scoring cheese. Cheese cured at 40 F. was superior in quality to the same kind cured at higher temperatures. That cured at 50 F. was superior in quality to that cured at 60 F. The general averages of the scores at the end of twenty weeks were as follows: 95. T at 40 F., 94.2 at 50 F., and 91. 7 at 60 F. The differ- ence in quality was confined in most cases to flavor and texture, the color and finish being little or not at all affected in cheese that was in good condition at the beginning. (5) Effects of covering cheese with paraffin. The commercial qualities of cheese were favorably influenced after six months in the case of that covered with paraffin, especially in flavor. The loss of moisture was greatly lessened, amounting only to a fraction of a pound for 100 pounds of cheese at 40 F. and 50 F., and being only about one-fifth the average loss found at 60 F. with cheese not so treated. The cheeses were also perfectly clean and free from mold, while all the cheeses not treated with paraffin were covered with mold. 71 72 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. (6) Results of clit in !<- colored cheeses (A), each weighing about 65 pounds, and 28 cheeses of so-called Stilton si/o or style (B), each weighing about 12i pounds. (These are ordinarily known in market as "Young Americas/' 1 ) The cheese was made from mixed milk of September 29, containing 4 per cent of fat and 12.6 per cent of solids. The conditions of manufacture wore normal. This lot of cheese was shipped on October 3 and placed in cold stor- age October 8. Lot V comprised 34 cheeses, made by E. S. Rice at Triumph, Ohio, each averaging in weight about 36 pounds. Rennet extract was added at the rate of 3 ounces for 1,000 pounds of milk at 86 F. The curd was cut in thirty minutes and then heated to 104 U F. in about thirty minutes, the whey being drawn an hour and a half later. Salt was added at rate of 2i pounds for 1,000 pounds of milk used. This lot was shipped October 7 and placed in cold storage October 13, 1902. Lot VI consisted of 40 cheeses, each cheese weighing about 70 pounds. It was not at first intended to include a comparative trial between cheese in natural form and coated with paraffin (according to the increasing commercial practice), and no cheese was purchased by the Department of Agriculture for this purpose. But at the request of the New York Agricultural Experiment Station, and through the liberal cooperation of Messrs. Martin & Co., this was accomplished. Martin & Co. furnished this lot of cheese at their own expense and risk, but they were added to the five purchased lots, divided among the three curing rooms, as later recorded, and subjected to the same conditions and examinations as the rest. The cheese contained in this lot represented two different dates of manufacture one week apart October 10 (A) and October 17 (B). This lot of cheese was made by H. Petrie at Turin, Lewis County, N. Y. The milk, of good quality in every respect, was warmed to 86 F. and a carefully prepared sour-milk starter added. It was then ripened to about 4 spaces by the Marschall test. Rennet extract was added at the rate of 2 ounces for 1,000 pounds of milk. In twenty-five to thirty minutes the curd was cut, the cutting being somewhat fine, after which careful stirring was begun and continued until the pieces of curd were well separated and beginning to shrink. Heat was then applied, the temperature of 98 F. being reached in about forty-five minutes. Stirring was continued until the curd strung on the hot iron one-eighth of an inch, when the whey was removed. The curd was then matted, cut into pieces about 3 by 6 by 6 inches, and turned at inter- vals of six or eight minutes until the curd was well drained and solid. The curd was then piled until it acquired a smooth, velvety feeling, after which it was milled, spread out, stirred, and cooled until fat THE COLD CUBING OF CHEESE. 75 started from it when squeezed in the hand. It was then salted at the rate of 2 pounds for 1,000 pounds of milk used, and finally put in press. Light pressure was applied at first just enough to make the curd hold together in the form of the mold. At the end of one hour the cheeses were removed from the hoops, the cloths and outside of the cheeses rinsed with warm water, replaced in press, and pressure applied for eighteen hours. This lot was placed in cold storage October 24, half of the number being covered with paraffin (Ap and Bp) and half being in natural condition (An and Bn). LENGTH OF EXPERIMENT. In February the cheese stored at 60 F. was removed and sold. In April the cheese stored at 50 F. was placed on the market, and also most of the cheese kept at 40 F. Some of the cheese that had been held at 40 F. was retained and kept until June 1, when it was sold, except some that was kept and placed at a temperature of 32 F. for further work. DISTRIBUTION OF CHEESES IN COLD STORAGE. Arrangements were made with the Merchants' Refrigerating Corn- pan}' of New York City to provide special rooms and take care of these different lots of cheese. Rooms were provided in which the tempera- tures could be controlled and kept at 40 F., 50 F., and 60 F. Auto- matic records were arranged in each room, showing the condition of the temperature continuousl\ T . The regulation of temperatures was remarkably well done; the variations from the desired point, for the entire period of storage, did not exceed 2 for the 60 room or 1 for the other rooms. It was an exceptionally good piece of work in maintaining even temperatures for thirty or forty successive weeks. The different lots of cheese were distributed in the different tem- peratures in the manner indicated by the following table: DistrifnUion of cheese at different temperatures. Lot. Number and weight of cheeses at 40 F. Number and weight of cheeses at 50 F. Number and weight of cheeses at 60 F. T Number. 10 18 11 11 9 16 19 5 5 5 Pound*. 645 811 378 371 585 197 696 358 356 352 358 Number. 6 12 6 6 6 8 8 3 3 Pounds. 384 535 207 204 387 99 290 211 212 Number. e 10 5 5 5 4 "? 2 2 Pounds. 325 448 170 171 329 50 256 143 142 11 mj H v White Colored [Large Stiltons VI An Ap Bn Bp 3 208 2 138 76 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. LOSS OF WEIGHT. The following table gives the weights of the cheese kept at the dif- ferent temperatures and the percentages of loss at the several dato stated: Weights of cliee.se and percentages of loss at different temperatures. Lot and description. Date of weigh- ing. Room at 40 F. Room t Weight. tt50F. Uess. Room at 60 F. Weight. Loss. Weight. Loss. I (New York export Cheddars) II (Pennsylvania Cheddars) .. Ill A (white) Oct. 6 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 7 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 7 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 Oct. 7 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 8 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 8 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 13 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 24 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 24 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 24 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Oct. 24 Feb. 13 Apr. 10 June 1 Pounds. 645 616 611 600 811 789 783 774 378 362 357 371 360 355 348 585 559 554 545 197 188 184 179 696 664 658 646 358 349 346.7 342 356 355 354 352. 8 352 340 336.5 333.2 358 357 356.6 355.4 Per cent. Pinmdx. 384 367 361 Per cent. 'Pounds. 325 303 Per cent. 4.5 5.3 7.0 4.4 6.0 6.8 535 515 511 448 425 I 2.7 3.5 4.5 3.7 4.5 207 195 192 204 193 189 170 155 4.2 5.6 5.8 7.2 8.8 Ill B (colored) 171 157 3.0 4.3 6.2 5.4 7.4 8.2 IV A (large) 387 366 365 329 305 4.4 5.3 6.8 5.4 5.7 7.3 IV B (Stiltons, or Young Americas) 99 91 88 50 44 4.6 6.6 9.1 8.1 11.1 12.0 V (Ohio flats) 290 271 266 356 233 4.6 5.5 7.2 6.6 8.3 9.0 VI An (Export Cheddars, without paraffin^ JII 20ti 202.7 143 137 2.5 3.1 4.5 2.4 4.0 4.2 VI Ap (Same, paraffined) VI Bn (New York Cheddars, without paraffin ) - 212 142 140 0.3 0.6 0.9 211 210 0.5 0.9 1.4 3.4 4.4 5 3 VI Bp (Same, paraffined) 208 207 207 138 136 0.3 0.4 0.7 0.5 0.5 1.5 THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 77 Shmtring weight lost by cheese. Lot. Average weight of each cheese. Age when placed in cold storage. Age when weighed. Amount lost for 100 pounds of cheese At 40 F. At50F. At 60 F. I Pounds. 64 64 64 45 45 45 34 34 34 34 34 65 65 65 12.5 12.5 12.5 36.5 Days. 9 9 9 18 18 18 9 9 9 9 9 3 8 8 8 8 8 Weeks. 20 28 35 20 28 35 20 28 20 28 35 20 28 35 20 28 35 19 27 34 17 25 32 17 25 32 17 25 32 17 25 32 Pounds. 4.5 5.3 7.0 2.7 3.5 4.5 4.2 5.6 3.0 4.3 6.2 4.4 5.3 6.8 4.6 6.6 9.1 4.6 5.5 7.2 2.5 3.1 4.5 0.3 0.6 0.9 3.4 4.4 ft 3 Pounds. 4.4 6.0 Pounds. 6.8 I I . II 3.7 4.5 5.1 II II Ill A 5.8 7.2 5.4 7.4 8.8 Ill A Ill B 8.2 Ill B III B IV A 5.4 5.7 7.3 IV A IV A IV B 8.1 11.1 12.0 IV B IV B V 6.6 8.3 9.0 V 36.5 V 36.5 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 VI An 7 7 7 7 7 7 14 14 14 14 14 14 2.4 4.0 4.2 VI An VI An VI Ap 0.5 0.9 1.4 VI Ap VI Ap VI Bn VI Bn VI Bn VI Bp 0.3 0.4 0.7 0.5 0.5 1.5 VI Bp VI Bp... From the data contained in the above table, we are enabled to make the following statements: (1) The cheese continued to lose water in nearly every case as long as weighings were made. This was true of all temperatures. (2) The loss of weight was least at 40 F. and increased with increase of temperature. At the end of twenty weeks the cheese in tempera- ture -40 F. had lost on an average 3.8 pounds per 100; that in 50 F., 4.8 pounds; and that in 60 F., 7.8 pounds. The loss at temperature 40 F. was 1 pound less than at 50 F. , and -4 pounds less than at 60 F. In other words, the loss at 60 F., as compared with the loss at 50 F. , was three times as great as was the loss at 50 F., compared with the loss at 40 F. The loss of weight was proportionally greater at higher temperatures. 78 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. (3) If we determine the average weekly loss from the data given in this table, we find that during the first twenty weeks the loss was at the average rate of 3 ounces a week at 40 F., 3.8 ounces at 50 F., and 6.2 ounces at 60 F. From the twentieth to the twenty-eighth week the average weekly loss was 2.2 ounces at 40 F. and 3.2 ounces at 50 F. The cheese kept at 40 F. appeared to lose more moisture per week from April 10 to June 1 than previously. (4) The size of cheese influences the loss of moisture. Small cheeses, other conditions being the same, lose a larger proportion of moisture in curing than do large cheeses, owing to the greater amount of sur- face relative to weight in the smaller cheeses. This tendency is shown by the following tabulated statement: Weight lust per 100 pounds of cheese in twenty week*. Average weight of cheese. At 40 F. At50F. At 60 F. Pounds. 70 Pounds. 2.5 Pounds. 2.4 Pounds. 4.2 45 2.7 3.7 5.1 35 3.9 5.9 8.5 12J 4.6 8.1 12.0 It will be noticed that the variation is much less at 40 than at the higher temperature. (5) The method of covering cheese with paraffin greatly reduces the loss of moisture. In VI An and Bn the cheeses were in natural condition, while in VI Ap and Bp they were covered with paraffin, being dipped in melted paraffin when a few days old. The loss of moisture in cheese covered with paraffin was only 0.3 pound per 100 pounds of cheese in twenty weeks at 40 J F. , 0. 5 pound at 50 F. , and 1.4 pounds at 00 F. In the same kind of cheese not thus covered the loss of moisture was much greater at all temperatures. By covering cheese with paraffin a saving in loss of moisture can be effected amounting to 5 or 6 pounds per 100 pounds of cheese at 60 F., and at 50 or below the total loss of moisture can be reduced to less than 1 pound per 100 pounds of cheese. In addition, the use of paraffin prevents the growth of molds. In every case cheeses covered with paraffin were entirely clean, while the others were more or less heavily coated with molds. RESULTS OK CO.M.MKKCIAI, K.\ AMINATION OF CIIKKHK. Arrangements were made to have the cheese examined at intervals by the commercial experts already named, who were to score the cheeses separately, the basis of a perfect cheese being 50 for flavor, 25 for texture, 15 for color, and 10 for finish. We give the average of the scores in the following table: THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. 79 Results of scoring of cheese. Lot. Date of exam- ination. Temper- ature of curing room. Flavor. Tex- ture. Color. Finish. Total score. Remarks. Oct. 6, 1902 op 48 24 15 10 97 Dec. 15,1902 40 48 24 15 10 97 do 50 46.5 23 15 10 94.5 do 60 46 22 15 10 93 Feb. 13,1903 40 46.7 23.3 15 10 95 I do...... do 50 60 44.3 42.7 23 22 14.7 14.3 10 10 92 89 Apr. 10,1903 40 46.3 23 14.7 10 94 Flavor not perfectly- do . 50 41.7 22.7 14.6 10 92 clean. Flavor somewhat tainted. June 1, 1903 40 48 24.7 15 10 97.7 Clean flavor and silky- Oct. 6, 1902 48 24 15 10 97 texture. Dec. 15,1902 do.... 40 50 48 48 23.5 23 15 15 10 10 96.5 96 do... 60 47 22.5 15 10 94.5 Feb. 13,1903 40 46 22 15 10 93 II. do 50 45 22 15 10 92 .....do 60 44 22 15 10 91 Apr. 10,1903 40 45.7 22.3 15 10 93 Flavor not perfectly- clean. do 50 43.7 22.3 14.7 10 90.7 Flavor tainted. .Mine 1,1903 40 46 23 15 10 94 Flavor flat; texture Oct. 7, 1902 48 24 15 10 97 smooth and silky. Dec. 15,1902 40 48.5 24 15 10 97.5 do 50 48 24 15 10 97 do 60 46.5 33 15 10 94.5 Feb. 13,1903 40 47.7 23.7 15 10 96.4 Flavor clean; texture III.. .. wax-like. do 50 47.7 24 15 10 96.7 do 60 45.3 23.3 14.8 10 94.4 Apr. 10,1903 40 47.7 24 15 10 96.7 do 50 46.7 23.7 15 10 95.4 Flavor slightly bitter. June 1,1903 40 47 24 15 10 % Flavor clean; texture Oct. 8, 1902 47 23 14 10 94 smooth and silky. Rather acid and of im- perfect color. Dec. 15,1902 40 47.5 23.5 14 10 95 do 50 16.6 22.5 13.5 10 92.5 do 60 44.5 22 13.5 10 90 Feb. 13,1903 do 10 50 44.7 42.3 22.7 22 13.3 12.3 10 10 90.7 86.6 do 60 41.7 21.3 12 10 85 IV A Apr. 10,1903 10 46 23 14.7 10 93.7 Flavor acid; texture do 50 43.3 22 13 10 . 88.3 stiff. Flavor acid and not t clean; texture harsh; color imper- ', fect. June 1,1903 40 46 23 12.7 10 91.7 Flavor clean; texture smooth and silky: color light. 80 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. Result* of scoring of cheese Continued. Lot. Date of exam ination Temper ature of curing room. Flavor. Tex- ture. Color. Finish. Total score. Remark*. /Oct. 8, 1902 Of 48 23 15 10 96 Dec. 15,1902 40 48 23.5 15 10 96.5 do 50 47.5 23.5 15 10 % do 60 46.5 22.5 15 10 94 Feb. 13,1903 40 47.3 23.7 15 10 % IV B do 50 45 22 15 10 92 do 60 44 22 15 10 91 Apr. 10,1903 .. do 40 50 46.3 46.3 24.3 24 15 14.7 10 10 95.6 95 June 1,1903 40 46.7 23.3 15 10 95 Flavor clean; texture Oct. 13,1902 46 23 15 10 94 wax-like. Dec. 15,1902 40 46.5 23.5 15 10 < 95 ....do 50 45 22.5 15 10 92.5 ....do 60 40.5 20.5 15 10 86 Feb. 13,1903 40 45.3 21.3 14.7 10 91.7 ....do 50 43.7 20.3 14.7 10 88.7 V ....do 60 43 20 14.7 10 87.7 Apr. 10,1903 40 45.3 22 14.7 10 92 Flavor and texture do 50 44 21.7 14.3 10 90 imperfect. Slightly bitter and of weak texture. June 1,1903 40 46 22.7 15 10 93.7 Flavor clean; texture Dec. 15,1902 ... do 40 50 49 48.5 24 23.5 15 15 10 10 98 97 smooth and pasty. ....do 60 48 23.5 15 10 96.5 Feb. 13,1903 do 40 50 48 48 24 24 15 15 10 10 97 97 VI. An... do 60 45.3 23 15 10 93.3 Apr. 10,1903 do 40 50 48 48 a 24 ,99*{'J 15 10 10 97 97 June 1,1903 40 47.7 24.3 15 10 97 Surface covered with Feb. 13,1903 40 48 24 15 10 97 mold. ....do 60 48 24 15 10 97 ....do 60 46.3 23.3 15 10 94.3 VI. Ap... Apr. 10,1903 ....do 40 50 48.3 48 24 24 15 15 10 10 97.3 97 June 1,1903 40 48.7 24.3 15 10 98 Condition practically perfect; surface Feb. 13,1903 40 48 24 15 10 97 bright and clear. ....do 50 48 24 15 10 97 ....do 60 44.7 22.7 14.3 10 91.7 VI. Bn... Apr. 10,1903 40 ' 4H 24 15 10 97 ....do 50 47 24 15 10 % June 1,1903 40 47.7 24.3 15 10 97 Surface covered with Feb. 13,1903 40 48 24 15 10 97 mold. ....do ....do 50 60 48 45.7 24 23 15 15 10 10 97 93.7 VI. Bp... Apr. 10,1903 ....do 40 50 48 47 24 24 15 15 10 10 97 96 June 1,1903 40 48.7 24.3 15 10 98 Condition practically perfect; surface bright and clean. THE COLD CUBING OF CHEESE. 81 SUMMARY. From the data embodied in the preceding table, we are able to present the following statements as a summary of the results: (1) Almost without exception the cheese cured at lower tempera- tures was superior in quality to that cured at higher temperatures. Cheese cured at 40 F. usually scored higher than that cured at 50 F., and the cheese cured at 50 F. scored higher in every instance than that cured at 60 F. Averaging all our results, we have the fol- lowing general scores for the different temperatures: At 40 F., 95.7; at 50 F., 94.2; at 60 F., 91.7. From these figures we see that the cheese deteriorated considerably more at 60 F. as compared with 50 F. than it did at 50 F. as compared with 40 F. The difference of scores is 1.5 in favor of 40 F., as compared with 50 F., and 2.5 in favor of 50 F. as compared with 60 F. In other words, the higher the temperature the greater is the relative deterioration of cheese in quality for each degree of temperature. (2) The difference in quality fell mostly on the flavor and texture. Averaging all the figures, we have the following results: Averages of flavor and texture. Qualities. At 40 F. At 60 F. At 60 F. Flavor 47.4 46.4 44.8 Texture 23.4 23 22.2 Here also we see that the difference is greater between 60 and 50 F. than between 50 and 40 F. in the direction of poorer quality. (3) At any given time the jured at 40 F. was usually better in quality than that at 50, and that at 50 was better than that at 60. The longer the time of curing the greater was the difference in favor of the lower temperatures. The following tabulated averages of the results illustrate the statements: Averages for different ages. Age of cheese. Score at 40 F. Score at 50 F. Score at 60 F. Weeks. 10 96.3 94.7 92 20 28 93.8 94.2 91.5 91.9 89.7 35 95.3 The cheese cured at 60 showed such deterioration in quality at the end of twenty weeks that it was sold. While the cheese cured at 40 and 50 showed some deterioration in quality at twenty weeks, it scored higher at twenty-eight weeks than at twenty- weeks. The cheese kept at 40 showed its highest score at thirty-five weeks in several cases. 4189 No. 4903 6 82 WKKAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. The higher store was always in favor of the lower temperature by several points. (4) The effect of covering cheese, with paraffin was in several cases to improve the quality as compared with cheese not so covered. The difference was more marked at 60 than at lower temperatures. The cheese covered with paraffin and cured at 40 showed its highest score at the end of thirty-five weeks. Results of use of paraffin. Character of cheese. Age in weeks. At 40 F. At50F. At 60 F. Cheese, normal (An) 20 97 97 93.3 Cheese, normal (Bn) 20 97 97 91.7 Cheese covered with paraffin (Ap) 20 97 97 91. 3 Cheese covered with paraffin (Bp) 20 97 97 93.7 Cheese, normal (An) 28 97 19 Cheese, normal (Bn) 28 97 % Cheese covered with paraffin (Ap) 28 97.3 97 Cheese covered with paraffin (Bp) 28 97 96 Cheese normal (An and Bn) 35 97 Cheese covered with paraffin (Ap and Bp) 35 98 RESULTS OF CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF CHEESE. The analytical data upon which the following discussion of chemical results is based were obtained by the methods described in Bulletin No. 215 of the New York Agricultural Experiment Station, and the table giving these data in full may be found in Bulletin No. 234 of the same series. But in this work the paranuclein, oaseoses, and peptones were not separated from one another, their combined amount being obtained by difference. (1) The process of cheese ripening. When cheese ripens, the most prominent change taking place is in the nitrogen compounds. The casein of milk is changed by the action of rennet enzyme into curd, chemically known as paracasein. In the process of cheese making, lactic acid is formed and this unites with the paracasein, forming a compound known as paracasein monolactate/' It is this compound that imparts to cheese curd the property of forming line strings on a hot iron, and it is the formation of this paracasein monolactate that accounts for the changes in appearance, plasticity, and texture of cheese curd during the process of cheddaring. However, there is reason to believe that the changes that take place in the process of cheese-ripening start with and are dependent upon the presence of paracasein monolactate or some similar compound. Hence, from a chemical point of view, cheese ripening consists mainly of the change of paracasein monolactate into other forms of nitrogen compounds, chief among which in the order of their formation are paranuclein. caseoses, peptones, amido compounds, and ammonia. These com- Bull. No. 214, N. Y. Agricultural Experiment Station. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 83 pounds, formed from paracasein monolactate, are readily soluble in water, while paracasein monolactate is not. Hence, in ripened cheese we have larger amounts of substances that are soluble and smaller amounts of substances that are insoluble. Ripened cheese is for this reason believed to be more readily digestible than green cheese. The amount of soluble nitrogen compounds is used as a measure of the extent of cheese ripening. This present investigation offers an opportunity for studying the chemical results of cheese ripening under different conditions of tem- perature and with a number of different types of Cheddar cheese under commercial conditions. (2) Moisture in cheese. Before taking up a stud} 7 of the nitrogen compounds of the cheese under investigation we will call attention to the amount of moisture in the cheese. In the case of lots I, II, III, and IV, in which the moisture was determined when the cheese was placed* in cold storage, the moisture content was found to vary from 34.20 to 35.44 per cent; this may be regarded as a comparatively small variation. In lots IV and V the moisture must have been above 40 per cent at the time the cheese was placed in cold storage, because ten weeks later, when the first analysis was made, the moisture was about 39 per cent. The result of moisture determination shows a gradual decrease in moisture as the cheese becomes older, as indicated by the following averages: Per cent of moisture in cheese. At 40 F. At 50 F. At 60 F. When put in cold storage 36.50 36.50 36.50 After being in storage ten weeks 36. 30 35. 70 35.65 After being in storage twenty weeks j 35 35 34 66 34 26 The decrease of moisture is greater with increase of temperature, a point which has been dwelt upon in connection with loss of weight. (3) Amount of paracasein monolactate in cheese. The amount of paracasein monolactate formed in the different cheeses when one and two weeks old varied from 40.70 to 66.14 per cent of the nitrogen in the cheese and averaged 57.49 per cent. The amount decreased as the cheese aged, and more rapidly at higher than at lower temperatures, as shown by the following general averages: Percentage of nitrogen in cheese inform of paracasein monolactate. Age of cheese. At40F. At50F. At 60 F. 1 week 57.49 57.49 57.49 10 weeks 47.94 42 08 37 09 20 weeks 47.10- 35.24 30 77 28 weeks 40.54 31.82 35 weeks .-, 36.36 84 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. This diminution of paracasein monolactate i.s undoubtedly due to its conversion into water-soluble nitrogen compounds. (4) Amount of /rater-soluble nitrogen compounds in cheese. While the amount of water-soluble compounds of nitrogen in cheese is not a guide in respect to the detailed chemical changes taking place in ripen- ing cheese, it serves as a general indication of the extent and rapidity of those changes. The data below, representing averages of our results, show that the amount of water-soluble nitrogen increases with increase of temperature and with lapse of time: Percentage of nitrogen in cheese in form of water-soluble compounds. Age of cheese. At 40 F. At50F. At60F. 1 week . . . . 14.65 14.55 14.55 10 weeks 20.03 25.18 28.48 20 weeks 24. 12 31.56 36.24 28 weeks 26.27 33.00 27 64 (5) Amount of amido compounds in cheese. The amido compounds of cheese are of interest because it is possible that among these com- pounds we are to look for the substance.or substances responsible for cheese flavors. Little or no cheese flavor appears in cheese until amido compounds are formed. The amount of amido compounds increases with temperature and with lapse of time, as shown by the following averages: Percentage of nitrogen in cheese in form of amido compounds. Age of cheese. At 40 F. At 50 F. At 60 F. 1 week 4.06 4.06 4.06 10 M'eeks . . 6.92 8.98 9.85 20 weeks 5.53 8.95 13.30 7.60 12.70 9 00 (6) Amount of ammonia in cheese. The formation of ammonia compounds in cheese may possibly be associated also with the develop- ment of cheese flavor. No ammonia is found in fresh cheese. It begins to be formed in appreciable quantities in about four weeks and increases with the age of the cheese. Its amount is greater at higher than at lower temperatures. The following averages give a good idea of the amount found in cheese under the conditions indicated: THE COLD CUEING OF CHEESE. Percentage of nitrogen in cheese inform, of ammonia. 8,5 Age of cheese. At 40 F. At50F. At60F. 1 week 10 weeks 1. 20 1.87 1.97 20 weeks 1. 62 3.44 3.36 28 weeks ... . 2. 52 3.48 SOME PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS. From the data presented in the foregoing pages, we have seen that the use of low temperatures in curing cheese shows two prominent results (1) reduction of loss of weight and (2) improvement of com- mercial quality. Any reduction in loss of weight or any improve- ment in quality means an increase in the amount of money that can be realized in the sale of the cheese. It is a matter of practical inter- est and importance to consider in detail what specific increased or decreased market values were found for the cheese under the different conditions of experiment. . * ECONOMY IX REDUCING LOSS OF MOISTURE. We have seen that the loss of moisture in curing cheese can be reduced by using a lower temperature, or by covering cheese with a thin coating of paraffin, or by a combination of these two conditions. Increased amount of cheese resulting from using low temperatures. Taking the longest period of time for which we were able to compare the results at the different temperatures employed (twenty weeks), it was found that the cheese cured at 40 C F. had lost, on an average, 3.8 pounds for 100 pounds of cheese; the cheese at 50 F. had lost 4.8 pounds, and that at 60 F. 7.8 pounds. For 100 pounds of cheese originally placed in the curing rooms at the different temperatures, we had for sale at the end of twenty weeks 96.2 pounds of cheese cured at 40 F., 95.2 pounds cured at 50 F., and 92.2 pounds cured at 60 F. Assuming that the cheese sells at a uniform price of 10 cents a pound, there would be receipts from the original 100 pounds of each of the different cheeses as follows: Cheese cured at 40 F $9. 62 Cheese cured at 50 F 9.52 Cheese cured at 60 F 9. 22 Under these conditions, the receipts from the cheese kept at 40 F. are 10 cents per 100 pounds more than for that kept at 50 F. and 40 cents per 100 pounds more than that kept at 60 F. As will be pointed out later, the differences are really greater than this. Increased amount of cheese resulting from covering cJieese with a coat- ing of paraffin. At the end of seventeen weeks, cheese covered with 86 lU'KEAU OF ANIMAL ISIH'STRY. paraffin had lo.-t only 0.3 pound for 100 pounds of cln - originally placed in storage at 1" F.. 0.5 JMIUIH! at :" F.. and 1.4 jnnind- at 60 F. The saving thu- il. , t. .1. based on the unifonn price of cheese at 1< nt' a |>otind. would average about 35 cents for 1<>0 pounds of chr.-r cured at I" F.. 43 cents for 100 pound- at :.o F.. and -'4 rent- for 100 pounds at ft* F.; or, comparing cheese kept at 4" F.. cov- ered with paraffin, with cheese kept at '>" F. not so covered, tt. would IK- a difference of about 75 cents per 100 pounds in favor of the paraffined eh- The cost of covering cheese with paraffin is slight. Conveniences for the work can be obtained from manufacturers of dairy supplie-. Increased value resulting from inqi i /// / //.///- at low tt'ii: j fit'irets. We have already studied the results of the sc< furnished by the experts who examined the cheese from time to time. They were re|iie-ted also to place upon the different lots of che commercial valuation based upon the re-u.lt- of their scoring. Below we jire-ent these commercial valuations in tabulated form. The experts properly disregarded the actual market rate.-, which have fluctuations -onietiiiie- difficult to account for, and established as their constant basis of valuation 13 cents per pound for cheese scoring over 95 point-. Value of ant. pound of cheese. Temper- Lot IV. Lot VI. Date of ex- ature Lot Lot Lot Lot amination. raring I. II. III. V. room. A. B. An. A |i. Bn. Bp. F. Omtt. Oentf. . ..,,, aum ,.,-.. Ontti. as* Ctnif. CrnU. Ocntt. Dec. 15; 1902. 40 13 13 13 13 13 13 Do GO 12.75 13 13 12.50 13 12.50 13.75 13. 75 13. 75 13. 75 Do 60 12.50 12.75 12 12.75 11.75 13.75 13.7/V 13.75 13.75 Feb. 13, 1903 . 40 13 12.50 13 12 13 12.25 14.25 ! li 14.25 Do 50 12.25 13 ll.T.i 12.25 12 14. ii 14.25 14.25 14.25 Do 60 12 12.50 11-75 12.25 11.7.S 13.50 13.7.S 13. lii 13.50 Apr. 9, 1903.. 40 12.50 13 12.50 14.75 l; Do 50 12.25 12.25 13 12 13 12.25 14.50 14.75 14.50 JUIH- 1, 1903.. 40 .. 14.50 14.50 14.75 14.75 1 Iii -tudyinj: the data embodied in this table, the following points are noticeable: (1) In the case of lots I to V,the value of the cheese cured at 4' ' F. was greater in most cases than that cured at ."" F., and in every case iter than that cured at 60 : F. In ino-t case-, the chee.-e cured at F. had a higher value than that cured at GO- F. These statements hold good for the twenty weeks during which the cher-c- \\.iv kept at the three different temperatures. If the cheese cured at >" F. had been kept for a longer period, it would have .-hmvn .-erious decrease in value. THE COLD CURING OF CHEESE. 87 In the case of lot VI, the value was the same for all temperatures on December 15, when the cheese was about eight weeks old. And this lot was of so much better quality that it was assigned a value above the 13-cent basis, in proportion to its score above 95 points. Two months later, there was no difference at the temperature of 40 and 50 F., but the cheese kept at 60 C had a lower value than the cheese kept at the lower temperatures. In April, when the cheese was about twenty-five weeks old, there was a little difference in favor of the lower temperatures. (2) In comparing the cheese covered with paraffin (lot VI, Ap and Bp) with that left in natural condition (lot VI, An and Bn), there was no difference in their value during the first seventeen weeks at the temperatures -iO c and 50 F. At 60 F., at the end of seventeen weeks, the cheese covered with paraffin was valued at a quarter of a cent a pound more than the unparaffined. When the cheese kept at 40 F. was twenty-five and thirty-two weeks old, there was no difference in value between the paraffined cheese and that not paraffined; but in the cheese kept at 50 F. there was, at the end of twenty-five weeks, an increased value of a quarter of a cent a pound in favor of the paraffined cheese. It thus appears that the results are more marked at higher temperatures than at lower temperatures in favor of the paraffined cheese, but even then only after the first few months of ripening. The chief value of paraffining cheese appears to be in preventing loss of moisture and in keeping the surface of the cheese free from molds. (3) If we average the results obtained with the different lots of cheese, we have the following figures: Value per pound of cheese cured at different temperatures. Date of examination. At 40 F. At50F. At60F. Dec. ]5, 1902 Cents. 13.300 Cents. 13. 175 Cents. 12.950 Feb. 13,1903 13.275 13.050 12. 675 Apr. 9, 1903 13 525 13 325 At the end of ten weeks the cheese cured at 40 F. was worth 12 cents more per 100 pounds than the cheese cured at 50 F. and 35 cents more than that cured at 60 F. The cheese cured at 50 F. was worth cents per 100 pounds more than that cured at 60 C F. At the end of twenty weeks the cheese cured at 40 F. was worth cents more per 100 pounds than the cheese cured at 50 F. and 60 cents more than that cured at 60 F., while that cured at 50 F. was worth 37i cents per 100 pounds more than that cured at 60 F. At the end of twenty -eight weeks the cheese cured at 40 F. was worth 20 cents more per 100 pounds than that cured at 50 F. Increased receipts from cheese cured at low temperatures and covered with paraffin. We have seen that the curing of cheese at low temper- 88 IM'KKAI' OK ANIMAL INDI STKY. atures has the cll'ect of (1) preventing loss of moisture and (2) increas- ing tin- value of the cheese. Therefore, we not only have more cheese to sell hut can sell it at a higher price. Taking cheese twenty weeks old as a basis for comparison, we know how much weight is lost at different temperatures and also the difference in price. From these figures the following tabulated statement is given: Money return* temperatures. Cured Tempera- ture of curing. cheese equivalent to 100 pounds of Market price of 1 pound of cheese. Receipts from cheese. cheese. OF. Pound*. Cents. Dollars. 10 96.2 13. 275 12. 77 50 95.2 13.050 12. 42 60 92.2 12. 675 11.69 These figures indicate that from 100 pounds of green cheese put into the curing room we were able to realize from that cured at 40 F. 35 cents more than from cheese cured at 50 F., and $1.08 more than from that cured at 60 F. From the cheese cured at 50 F. we received 73 cents more a hundred pounds than from that cured at 60 F. If we compare our results obtained with cheese covered with paraffin with those given by cheese not so covered, we have the following tab- ulated statement: Cured cheese equivalent to 100 pounds of green cheese and comparative value of Unit paraffined and unparaffined. Temper- ature of curing room. Cured cheese rniiivalent to 100 pounds of green cheese. Value, of 1 pound of cheese. Receipts from c-heese. Paraf- fined. Not par- ^ affined. Paraf- fini'il. Not l>;ir- amned. Paraf- fined. Dottare. Not par- affined. P. Pounds. Pounds. Cfiit*. Cent*. Doilnrn. 40 99.7 96.2 14.25 14. 25 14.21 13.70 50 99.5 95.2 14.26 14.25 14.19 18.66 60 .is. r, 92.2 13.75 13.60 13.56 12. 15 At 40 F. the difference in favor of the paraffined cheese is 51 cents for 100 pounds of cheese originally placed in the curing room; at 50 F. the difference is 63 cents, and at 60 F., $1.11. Covering cheese with paraffin results in greater saving at higher temperatures than at lower temperatures. Comparing paraffined cheese cured at 40 F. with unparaffined cheese cured at 60 F., we find a difference of $1.76 for 100 pounds of cheese in favor of the paraffined cheese and the lower temperature. o [Continued from 2d page of cover.] Dr. J. S. Kelly, care Blomer it Michael Co., Dr*W. H. Rase, 18 Broadway, New York, Quincy. 111. ' Dr. F. L. Russell. >rono. Me. Dr. F. D. Ketchum. South St. Paul, Minn. Dr. J. K. Ryder, care 1". S. Consul. Liverpool. Dr. \V. B.Lincoln. Union Stock Yards. Nashville. England. Tenn. Dr. K. P. SchalTter, care Cleveland Provision Co., Dr. C. Lovcbcrry. room Krj Custom-Hou&e, I'ort- Cleveland. Ohio. hiii'l. orejr. Dr. C. A. Schanller, 1:54 South Second st., Phila- Dr. II. D. Mayne. Malone. X. Y. delphia. Pa. Dr. J. Miller, care John Morrell A: Co.. Ottumwa. Dr. T. A. Shipley, care T. M. Sinclair A; Co.. Ltd., Iowa, Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Dr. J. C. Milnes, care The Rath Packing Co.. Dr. N. C. SorenAIP.V INSI'K< To P.S. W. D. Collyer. iMO South Water st.. Chicago. 111. B. R Van Valkenhnrgh. Ids Chambers st., New James llewcs. 'J110 North Charles st., Baltimore, Md. York, N. Y. E. II. Webster (in the field, on. Manhattan. Kans. M. W. Lang. Department of Agriculture, Wash- Levi Wells (Bradford County i. Spring Hill. Pa. ington, D. C. E. A. McDonald. :.s and "ill Downs Block. Seattle. Wash. Wm. E. Smith, 1(W Chambers st.. New York. N. Y. <;. M. Whitaker. P. O. box 1:J. Boston. Mass. W. II. Savior, 111 California st.. San Francisco, Gal. UC SOUTHERN f Br~34610 3. ss ersitj Mouther