F 
 
 591 
 H78 
 
BANCROFT 
 LIBRARY 
 
 o- 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
THE GOLDEN WESTj 
 
 AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF 
 THE STATES AND TERRITORIES 
 OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE 
 
 " The men who got gold in '49 were 
 the men who heard it was to be had 
 and who went West and got it." 
 
 ISSUED B Y TH E 
 
 L North British & Mercantile Insurance Company . 
 
 76 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK 
 
 MAY, 1911 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 Hn 
 
 HE year 1809 was distinguished by the birth of Lincoln, 
 Darwin, Gladstone, Tennyson and Mendelssohn, and also 
 by the organization in Edinburgh, of the North British 
 Insurance Company. Its first President was George, then 
 Marquis of Huntly, and afterward the fifth and last Duke 
 of Gordon. The Edinburgh Evening Courant of April 1 7th, 1 809, con- 
 tained the first announcement of the enterprise and explained that "a 
 number of respectable gentlemen and merchants in different parts of the 
 country have resolved to establish in Edinburgh a company on a liberal 
 and national basis under the name of the 
 
 NORTH BRITISH INSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 which may include not only most of the opulent and enterprising merchants 
 and capitalists throughout Scotland, but also a considerable part of the 
 landed interest who are so much interested in retaining their floating capital 
 within the country for its own improvement." 
 
 The first heading for the company's policies was made by the famous 
 wood engraver, Thomas Bewick. 
 
 The premiums for 1809 were 2,149, and in one loss in Glasgow 
 the Company paid 6,464, "it appearing that the fire was occasioned 
 by a squib or rocket entering a window on the roof of the building 
 and communicating inflammation to cotton goods of various de- 
 scriptions which were therein deposited." The company has since paid for 
 fire losses exceeding $170,000,000. 
 
 In 1832 a Branch Office was opened in London, and in 1861 the 
 business was extended to India, the colonies and foreign countries, and an 
 agency was established in Canada, which developed into the Montreal 
 Branch. 
 
 In 1 862 a merger was effected with the Mercantile Fire Insurance 
 Company of London, and the company became the 
 
 NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE INSURANCE 
 COMPANY 
 
 with head offices in Edinburgh and London. 
 
 In 1866 the Company commenced business in the new world by 
 opening its UNITED STATES BRANCH office at No. 74 Wall 
 Street, New York City, and appointed as its first manager Mr. Ezra 
 White. Mr. White was succeeded in 1876 by Charles E. White and 
 
Samuel P. Blagden, associate managers; Mr. White retiring in 1887. 
 In 1894 Mr. Blagden was succeeded by Henry E. Bowers and upon 
 his resignation, January 1, 1900, Ellis G. Richards was appointed United 
 States manager in his place, which position he now holds. 
 
 THE UNITED STATES BRANCH OFFICE 
 
 is located at 76 William Street, New York City, where the business of 
 the Company for the United States, including the Territory of Hawaii, is 
 handled in seven Departments, viz: the Metropolitan (New York); Mid- 
 dle; New England and Southern; Central; Western; Pacific, and Im- 
 proved Risks. 
 
 The Pacific Department (formerly located in San Francisco) is in 
 charge of W. S. Berdan, General Agent. 
 
 The original promoters of the Company (which does both life and 
 fire insurance business) builded better than they knew. At the close of 
 its first year its total funds were about 20,000. They now amount to 
 more than $ 1 00,000,000. The company's business is worldwide, with 
 agencies in the United Kingdom, Germany, Austria, and elsewhere on 
 the Continent of Europe; the United States, South America, Canada, 
 China, India, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and, in fact, 
 throughout the globe. 
 
 On the threshold of the second century of its existence the Company 
 looks forward with confidence, feeling that its record merits a continued 
 and increasing success. 
 
 In presenting the second installment of "The Golden West" a few 
 words of explanation are due our readers. 
 
 No originality is claimed for this publication further than the idea. 
 We have freely borrowed from many sources with the intention of giving 
 in a condensed form some facts connected with the early settlement and 
 development of the country comprised in our Pacific Department, which 
 we hope may prove of interest and value. 
 
 This booklet, however, is not designed solely from a historic stand- 
 point, nor does it aim to merely point a prophetic finger to the richest "land 
 of opportunity" in the world. It has the further end in view of reminding 
 property owners of the merits of the 
 
 NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE INSURANCE 
 COMPANY, 
 
 which has been in existence over one hundred years, and has a most hon- 
 orable and convincing record throughout the world and especially in the 
 country we are writing about. 
 
 THE EDITOR. 
 
Look now abroad another race has filled 
 
 These populous borders wide the wood recedes, 
 And towns shoot up, and fertile realms are tilled; 
 
 The land is full of harvests and green meads ; 
 Streams numberless, that many a fountain feeds, 
 
 Shine, disembowered, and give to sun and breeze 
 Their virgin waters; the full region leads 
 
 New colonies forth, that toward the western seas 
 
 Spread, like a rapid flame, among the autumnal trees. 
 * * * 9 
 
 Here the free spirit of mankind, at length, 
 
 Throws its last fetters off; and who shall place 
 A limit to the giant's unchained strength, 
 
 Or curb his swiftness in the forward race? 
 # # * * 
 
 Bryant. 
 
THE GOLDEN WEST 
 
 In 1 843 Daniel Webster opposed a bill for the establishment of a 
 mail route through what was then styled the "Great American Desert," 
 and in a speech delivered in the United States Senate referred to the country 
 beyond the Missouri River as "a vast and worthless area, a region of sav- 
 ages and wild beasts," and alluded to the Pacific Coast region as "a coast 
 of three thousand miles, rockbound, cheerless, uninviting." The "Web- 
 slerian Desert" has since disappeared, and populous cities flourish where 
 waste places met Fremont and others in their early journeys. Forests have 
 sprung up where barren stretches met the view, and along the Pacific Coast 
 the beauties and productiveness of Spain and Italy have been more than 
 reproduced. Irrigation with governmental aid is opening up great tracts 
 for prospective settlers. The man who first led a stream of water 
 upon the arid lands in the fruit country opened up wealth greater than the 
 pioneer gold seekers, which is enriching a far more numerous and diverse 
 population. Irrigation work in the Western States is being done on a gigan- 
 tic scale, as indicated by the government projects alone, which will involve 
 an outlay of over $70,000,000. The conditions there are ideal, the choice 
 broad, the opportunities numerous. As soon as the irrigation plans are 
 completed there will be room in this zone of development for a vast 
 population. 
 
 That this conclusion is warranted will, we believe, be evident after 
 a perusal of the summary of the growth and prospects of our western country, 
 given in the following pages. 
 
ALASKA 
 
 When the United States in 1867, through the foresight of Secretary 
 of State William H. Seward, purchased Alaska for $7,200,000, we 
 secured not only a very large section of territory but a country which is an 
 empire in itself (only lacking in people) and is proving immensely rich 
 in varied resources. In gold alone over $ 1 60,000,000 have been extracted 
 since 1880, and recent investigations in the Innoke district, the central 
 Kuskokwim Valley, and the new Haiditarod District, now partially finished 
 by the United States Geological Survey, disclose new placer gold districts 
 which promise heavy returns. The agents of the Survey have discovered 
 placers on the small streams in areas which are drained into the lower Yukon 
 and the lower Kuskokwim, proving that the formations of the upper Yukon 
 belts extend much farther southwest than had generally been supposed. 
 The value of copper, coal and other minerals aside from gold is almost 
 beyond estimation. Alaska covers 590,884 square miles, and is now known 
 to be the richest territory as yet undeveloped on this continent. Within 
 its borders could be placed the following twenty States of the Union: Con- 
 necticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Maine, Maryland, Mas- 
 sachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, 
 Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Vermont, Virginia, 
 West Virginia and Wisconsin. Its area is about equal to that of France, 
 Germany, Italy, Portugal and Switzerland. 
 
 It is one-fifth the size of the entire United States; is fourteen times as 
 large as New York State; has one-fifth of our coal, the only tin mines in 
 this country, and 18,000 miles of dredging ground. It has 4,750 miles of 
 coast line, and with a white population of but 65,000 its total trade in 
 1 909 was over sixty millions. 
 
 Nearly 200 miles have already been completed of the Copper River and 
 Northwestern Railroad which extends from tidewater at Cordova through 
 the Copper River Valley to Copperfield near the Chitini River and the 
 Behring Lake coal fields. 
 
 The Geological Survey in one of their recent reports give it as their 
 estimate that there are sixteen billion tons of coal in the known coal areas 
 of Alaska, with vast amounts in regions yet unexplored in that territory. 
 
 It is claimed that the deposits of coal on the Matamuska River are worth 
 as much as those on the Behring River, and that a conservative estimate 
 is that these two fields alone are worth over two billions of dollars. In addi- 
 
tion to these there are many more valuable coal fields the area of which is 
 estimated at 12,867 square miles by the Geological Survey. 
 
 A San Francisco newspaper remarks: "It is estimated that Alaska has 
 sixteen billion tons of coal in sight, but with her climate it is hardly more 
 than she needs". The fact is, that Alaska has a better average climate 
 than is generally understood, and more arable ground than Sweden, Norway 
 and Finland, which have a population of ten millions. 
 
 There is said to be enough hay going to waste each year in the unculti- 
 vated valleys of southeastern Alaska to feed all of the cattle in Montana 
 and Texas combined. 
 
 The gold product in 1909 was about $19,000,000, and was only 
 exceeded in the United States by Colorado. 
 
 On Kenai Peninsula, along the line of the 70 mile Alaska Central Rail- 
 road, there are many thousands of acres of poplar and spruce available as 
 pulp wood of a high quality. Alaska contains millions of acres of good 
 grazing and farming land. There is a total area of about 2,500 square 
 miles along the western edge of Kenai Peninsula alone, bordering Cook 
 Inlet, the greater part of which is probably available for grazing and tillage. 
 The Knix Arm region, Matanuska Valley to the eastward, the Yentna 
 to the westward and the main Sushitna Valley and smaller tributaries 
 running northward far into the interior, may also be roughly estimated at 
 about 2,500 square miles of available tillage lands, but will probably 
 exceed that amount considerably. 
 
 Observations of tides by the United States Survey ship McArthur in 
 Turnagain Bay and Knix Arm, Cook Inlet, Alaska, show what are prob- 
 ably the second highest in the world, of thirty feet variation and a tidal cur- 
 rent of eight knots. The only tides which are known to exceed this record 
 are in the Bay of Fundy. 
 
 The Alaskan purchase in present and prospective value is second 
 only to the bargain secured by the United States in 1 803 through the fore- 
 sight of President Thomas Jefferson, when the great tract of land known as 
 the country of Louisiana was acquired from Napoleon Bonaparte, then 
 First Consul of France, for fifteen million dollars. This vast domain with 
 an area of more than a million square miles included the region in which 
 now lie the States of Arkansas, a part of Colorado and Idaho, North and 
 South Dakota, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, 
 and Wyoming. 
 
 Exclusive of Indians, at that time the entire population of the region was 
 barely 90,000, of whom 40,000 were negro slaves. 
 
 There was strong opposition to this purchase in New England, where 
 there was bitter feeling against President Jefferson, the prime mover in this 
 
matter. On July 31. 1803, the U. S. Senate formally ratified the agreement 
 between the two governments. The value of the Louisiana Purchase must 
 now be reckoned in billions. 
 
 Perhaps the most interesting archaeological discovery made on the north 
 coast of Alaska has a relation to the present methods of personal decoration 
 of the natives of Alaska, the significant feature of which is the wearing of 
 lip-buttons, or labrets, by the men, but strangely enough, not by women. The 
 present custom is, that when a boy is fourteen or fifteen years of age, holes 
 are pierced in his lower lip, one below each corner of his mouth. A small 
 wooden plug is at first inserted to keep the opening from growing together, 
 and month by month a bigger and bigger plug is used, till finally the openings 
 are half an inch in diameter. At this point the young man begins to wear 
 stone or ivory plugs. These ornaments are put in from the inside, ordinarily 
 as one might insert a button into a shirt front. Usually the two buttons worn 
 are each of a different sort, while sometimes only one of the holes is filled, 
 and in summer men are occasionally met who wear no buttons at all. When 
 a visitor is seen approaching, however, the ornaments are always inserted, for 
 they do not feel dressed without them. In preparing for sleep they are 
 usually removed. 
 
 The Coast region has much rain and snow, but an equable temperature, 
 and the winter at Sitka is no colder than at Washington, D. C. The snow- 
 fall at Valdez has reached 60 feet, and the rainfall at Sitka 1 1 1 inches in a 
 season. In the Yukon basin it is very cold in the winter, although the summer 
 temperature may reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade. The rainfall 
 is small. The soil is permanently frozen for several yards below the surface, 
 but a thin surface layer thaws out every summer. The tundra region about 
 Nome has a still different climate, more severe than that of the interior. 
 There the marshy lands, interspersed with ponds and lakes, have few 
 grasses, but on the hills and gravelly knolls there is a greater variety of 
 grasses than in the interior. 
 
 Much of Alaska (formerly known as Unalaska) has a good climate and 
 productive soil. In the southwestern part the climate is similar to that of 
 New York, Illinois, Michigan and Wisconsin. On the southeastern coast 
 it is rainy with a moderate temperature. Central Alaska will be the greater 
 agricultural country. Roadmaking, however, will be required on a large 
 scale, as in nearly 600,000 square miles Alaska has only 400 miles of 
 wagon roads. 
 
 But one per cent, of the territory has been thoroughly surveyed. The 
 four great resources of this section are minerals, agriculture, fish and timber. 
 The salmon fisheries produce annually about $ 1 0,000,000, and next in 
 importance are the halibut fisheries, the annual product of which is nearly 
 
6,000,000 pounds, nearly all of which is marketed as fresh fish. Next 
 are the cod fisheries, nearly equal in extent to the halibut. The timber, while 
 not comparable to the extensive forests of Oregon and Washington, is still of 
 great importance. The forest reserves cover an aggregate area of over 
 26,000,000 acres. Nearly every cannery and mine in southeastern Alaska 
 has its own sawmill. 
 
 The Navy Department will soon establish two additional wireless stations 
 on the southern coast of Alaska. They will be located at Unalaska, one of the 
 Aleutian Islands, and at Kodiak, which is south of the Peninsula. 
 The erection later of a wireless station on the Hawaiian Island of Oahu is 
 contemplated. An effort will then be made to establish wireless commu- 
 nication between Alaska and the Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 Alaska's population as given by the last census was 64,353. It is a coun- 
 try which should grow rapidly with the development of its resources. 
 
 10 
 
ARIZONA 
 
 Arizona, with 113,020 square miles of territory, is larger than Italy; 
 has a greater area than New York and all New England, and is larger 
 than New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New Jersey combined. All 
 the farms of Rhode Island could be put in one of its irrigated valleys. It 
 has an unbroken forest larger than the State of Indiana. The 200 miles 
 that the Colorado River plunges through the Grand Canon make up the 
 world's greatest power producer. 
 
 This region was known to Spanish explorers as early as 1 526, when Don 
 Jose de Vasconcellos, a follower of Cortez, crossed the center of this terri- 
 tory towards the great Canon. He found on the river banks ruins of cities 
 which seemed to have existed for centuries. These, with regular fortifica- 
 tions, reservoirs, canals and walls of solid masonry, usually two stories in 
 height, show that the country was once inhabited by an enterprising and 
 cultivated people. It is estimated that fully 100,000 must have inhabited 
 the Valley of the Gila alone. 
 
 The next Spanish Expedition was that of Marcos de Niza, a Fran- 
 ciscan priest, on or about May 9, 1 539. He was accompanied and guided 
 by a negro slave, Estavanico, who was one of the survivors of the expedition 
 of De Narvaez to the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico in 1 528. Es- 
 tavanico and his master, Dorantes, and Castillo Maldonado, made up the 
 forlorn party led by Cabeza de Vaca across Texas and northern Mexico to 
 the Spanish settlement at Culiacan, where they arrived in April, 1536, after 
 great suffering and one of the most remarkable journeys recorded in history. 
 
 The tales told by these men, of rich cities and a thickly peopled country 
 to the northward, excited great interest among the Spanish leaders in Mex- 
 ico and it was hoped and believed that another Peru waited there to yield 
 its wealth to those who came first. It was these stories which inspired Mar- 
 cos de Niza to undertake the expedition which led to the discovery of 
 Arizona. 
 
 Don Antonio de Mendoza, "the good viceroy" of new Spain, out- 
 fitted this expedition, which consisted of De Niza and a brother priest, Ono- 
 rato; the negro, Estavanico, whom Mendoza had bought from his master, 
 Dorantes, and who was particularly valuable because of his knowledge of 
 the Indian life; a group of Indians who had been kept at Culiacan till they 
 understood some Spanish and were useful as interpreters, and many Indians 
 who followed from village to village as the expedition moved northward. 
 
 Estavanico made himself objectionable to the Indians and on the 21st 
 
 II 
 
of May news came to Marcos that his guide had been killed at one of the 
 cities of Cibola. Without him De Niza could not continue his explora- 
 tions, but he went to the top of a small hill from which he saw the city of 
 Cibola, which he reported to be larger than the City of Mexico and the land 
 the best and largest yet discovered. 
 
 His report was so favorable that Viceroy Mendoza outfitted a large ex- 
 pedition of Spanish gentlemen and soldiers, mounted and on foot, with several 
 hundred Indians, under the command of Francisco Coronado, to seek out the 
 new land and the wealth of Cibola. Coronado's expedition started north- 
 ward on February 23, 1 540. In the latter part of May he entered Arizona, 
 following a river which he called Nexpa, either the Santa Cruz or the San 
 Pedro. 
 
 On July 7, 1 540, Coronado reached one of the Zuni pueblos of New 
 Mexico and soon realized that there were no gold and gems to be found in 
 the land of Cibola. 
 
 About the middle of July, 1 540, Coronado sent Don Pedro de Tovar 
 with a small troop of horsemen and footmen to find a group of cities to the 
 westward, similar to Cibola. He found the Moqui towns of northeastern 
 Arizona. Hearing of a great river and mighty people farther westward, 
 Tovar sent Don Garcia de Cardenas to look over that country. He reached 
 the brink of the Grand Canon of the Colorado and brought back a report 
 of the great river and of the absence of people of any sort. 
 
 July 8, 1539, Francisco de Ulloa sailed from Acapulco to explore the 
 coast of the Gulf of California for Cortez. He reached the head of the 
 gulf but did not explore far enough to find the mouth of the Colorado 
 river. 
 
 May 9, 1 540, Hernando de Alarcon sailed from Acapulco to explore 
 the coast in cooperation with Coronado's land expedition. In August he 
 reached the sand shoals at the head of the Gulf of California, where Ulloa 
 had turned back, and exploring among them he found the mouth of a large 
 and swift river which he entered on Thursday, August 26th, and which he 
 named the Buena Guia. 
 
 In September, 1 540, Coronado left some seventy or eighty of his men 
 in the valley of Corazones under command of Melchoir Diaz. With twenty- 
 five of the strongest Diaz explored the coast of the Gulf of California and 
 found the Colorado River, which he named the Rio del Tizon, or Fire- 
 brand, because of the way he saw the Indians of the vicinity using firebrands 
 to warm themselves. 
 
 Following Coronado's marches the more important Spanish expeditions 
 were directed to New Mexico, rather than to Arizona; but the region 
 south of the Gila River was well known to and frequently visited by both 
 
 12 
 
Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries and, eventually, permanent missions were 
 established in the region which was known as Pimeria Alta. 
 
 Arizona formed a part of Mexico until its purchase by the United States 
 in 1850. It was organized into a territory by Act of Congress, February 
 24, 1 863, with its area described as comprising all the United Stales lands 
 west of longitude 109 to the California line. The population then was 
 6,500. Since then the northwest corner has been ceded to Nevada. It is 
 a mountainous region and some of its area is still unexplored. 
 
 To one of the pioneer explorers of the Arizona region the Zuni Indians 
 gave the following account of their origin as preserved in their traditions: 
 
 Their legend relates that in the beginning a race of men sprang out of the 
 earth as plants arise and come forth in the Spring. This race increased until 
 they spread over the whole earth, and after continuing through countless 
 ages passed away. The earth then remained without people a great length 
 of time until at length the sun had compassion on the earth and sent a celes- 
 tial maiden to re-people the globe. This young goddess was called Arizonia, 
 signifying "Maiden Queen," who in time blessed the earth with twins, son 
 and daughter, and they became the father and mother of the Zuni Indians, 
 and from this tribe arose all other races of men as offshoots from this original 
 tribe, the Zuni Indians being the only pure, original stock. 
 
 The first officials of Arizona were appointed by President Lincoln. Not 
 one of them had ever seen the country, and as there were no railroads they 
 outfitted with wagons and traveled westward in true pioneer style. On De- 
 cember 29, 1 863, being sure that they had crossed the western line of New 
 Mexico into Arizona, they stopped at Navajo Springs and the government 
 was formally organized in a wilderness unpeopled except by Indians. 
 
 The capital of Arizona was temporarily located by proclamation of the 
 governor at a military post which had been established only a month before 
 in Chino Valley, about 20 miles from the present city of Prescott. The 
 governor's party reached this place in January, and in May the post, named 
 Fort Whipple, was removed to the present site on Granite Creek, and the 
 capital went with it. The fort was moved because rich placer diggings had 
 been found in the region and it was desired to protect the miners from In- 
 dian raids. A town was laid out a mile up the creek from the fort and was 
 named Prescott in honor of the great historian. The name was selected by 
 Richard McCormick, secretary to the governor, and later second governoi 
 of Arizona. The streets of Prescott were named for Spanish explorers of 
 Mexico and the Southwest. 
 
 The first silver mining in Arizona by Americans was undertaken by 
 Charles D. Poston, Sylvester Mowry, and others in the Santa Rita and 
 adjacent mountains. This silver was run into crude bars at the mines and 
 
 13 
 
some of it was shipped by way of San Francisco to China, where a profit- 
 able advance upon the American price was realized. It was made into 
 Chinese and other Asiatic coins. 
 
 The early placer gold diggings of Arizona were extremely rich, thousands 
 of dollars being taken out in a few days. The most famous were La Paz, 
 near the Colorado River (where an adobe town of several thousand inhabi- 
 tants sprang up like a mushroom, to be abandoned when the diggings were 
 worked out), Weaver, Rich Hill, and Lynx Creek. 
 
 Prospecting in northern Arizona soon developed valuable quartz mines, 
 both gold and silver. The first very rich gold mine to be worked was the 
 Vulture, named for the large king vulture which is only found in that vicin- 
 ity and in South America, and which has been likened to the condor, al- 
 though smaller. The Vulture is said to have yielded $20,000,000, but 
 as "high-grading" was carried on, its true yield will never be known. It is 
 again being worked after many years of idleness and promises to be as rich 
 as of old. 
 
 The most famous silver mines in northern Arizona were the Peck, which 
 yielded many tons of almost pure silver, and the Tip Top. Other mining 
 districts were Big Bug and Bumblebee. In a canon near the former a nug- 
 get worth over $700 was picked up by a Mexican. 
 
 Nuggets of pure silver have also been found at other points in Arizona, 
 notably near the city of Globe, which is now in the heart of one of the 
 richest copper mining regions. Copper was not sought by the first prospec- 
 tors in Arizona, as the methods of working the ore were then too expensive 
 to permit a profit. Arizona contains some of the largest copper mines in 
 the world and has ranked first among the copper producing States in the 
 Union. 
 
 Six of the important cities of Arizona have been directly built up by 
 great copper mines; Jerome, by the United Verde, in Yavapai County; 
 Douglas and Bisbee, in Cochise County, by the great Copper Queen re- 
 gion; Clifton and Morenci, in Graham County, and Globe in Gila County. 
 The total mineral production in 1909 was $43,000,000. The first rail- 
 road in Arizona was built for the Clifton mines ; it was a very narrow gauge 
 and the engine was hauled several hundred miles on a freight wagon. 
 On some of the early runs the Apache Indians tried to lasso the smokestack 
 and pull the little engine off the track. 
 
 The Grand Canon of the Colorado River, unequaled in the world for 
 grandeur and picturesque beauty, lies wholly within Arizona. It is over 
 200 miles long and in some places is more than a mile deep. It was ex- 
 plored by Major Powell in 1 869. Before his party passed through the 
 canon others had attempted to explore it from below. In 1 858 Lieut. Ives 
 
 14 
 
ascended the river in a small steamboat to the mouth of the canon, and in 
 1864 Octavius D. Gass, a member of the early legislatures of Arizona, 
 tried to prospect and explore the lower canon. Major Powell made a 
 second trip which added much to the scientific knowledge of the region. 
 
 The country lying north of the Grand Canon is one of the richest parts 
 of Arizona, containing many mines and much forest and grazing land. Lee's 
 Ferry on the Colorado River was established by John D. Lee, who was con- 
 victed and executed for participation in the Mountain Meadow Massacre. 
 
 Arizona contains in the Mogollon Forest one of the largest unbroken 
 bodies of timber in the world. It consists chiefly of pine, which yields a 
 fine grade of lumber. In this forest is a volcanic area of recent date as 
 weird and remarkable as the lava fields of Iceland. 
 
 The prehistoric cliffs and cave dwellings of Arizona were discovered by 
 the earliest explorers, and the Casa Grande, a great pueblo dwelling men- 
 tioned by the Spanish explorers, has recently been excavated by the Bureau 
 of Ethnology and shown to be of great extent. It stands in the desert near 
 the city of Florence, a few miles from the Southern Pacific railroad. 
 
 Phoenix, the present capital of Arizona, was so named because it is 
 built in a valley which is filled with remains of a prehistoric people, with 
 canals still clearly outlined, ruins of buildings similar to the Casa Grande, 
 and stone implements and other objects. The name was given by Darrell 
 Duppa, an English gentleman of scholarly tastes, who recalled the oriental 
 story of the phoenix bird which, after living several hundred years, built and 
 lighted its own funeral pyre from the ashes of which a new phoenix ap- 
 peared. Phoenix is surrounded by an irrigated section of extensive area 
 in a high state of development. The completion of the New Roosevelt 
 Dam insures an abundant supply of water. The ostrich industry is becom- 
 ing an important factor in this immediate vicinity Many of the canals which 
 bring water to irrigate the country around Phoenix follow the course of the 
 ditches built by an unknown people. 
 
 Mesa, in the Salt River Valley, about twenty miles from Phoenix, was 
 settled by Mormon colonists, who dug canals and developed the first suc- 
 cessful farms in the region. Near it is the "City of the Dead," a prehistoric 
 pueblo mound excavated by Frank Cushing, noted for his work among the 
 Zuni Indians of New Mexico. 
 
 Yuma, on the Colorado River, was the site of an early ferry where, during 
 the gold rush to California, thousands of people crossed the great stream. 
 It is now of special importance because of the Laguna Dam, a huge weir 
 which diverts the waters of the river to irrigate thousands of acres of the rich- 
 est land in the West. Yuma has a semi-tropical climate, and produces or- 
 anges and lemons of rare quality. 
 
 IS 
 
Navajo and Apache Counties were named for Arizona's two most pow- 
 erful Indian tribes. The earliest settlers were Mormon colonists from Utah, 
 who built canals and established prosperous farms in the small but fertile 
 valleys. These counties contain the finest and most extensive cliff ruins in 
 Arizona, and pictured rocks on which an ancient people have left a fantastic 
 record to which no one has yet found a key. 
 
 The Moqui villages, among the attractions in this region, were the com- 
 munal homes of an Indian people, who centuries ago retired to this desert 
 region and built their strange dwellings high on almost inaccessible cliffs. 
 The snake dance and the corn dance, which take place on alternate years 
 at these villages, have attracted many tourists and scientific observers. 
 
 The petrified forests are in these counties; large areas strewn with giant 
 tree trunks turned to richly colored, agatized stone. 
 
 Arizona contains all of one and part of another of the government irriga- 
 tion projects. The Tonto Basin Storage reservoir is about seventy miles 
 from Phoenix and lies in a rugged valley which was a favorite stronghold 
 of the Apache Indians, and which contains some fine cliff dwellings. The 
 Laguna project, about twelve miles above Yuma, will water land both in 
 California and in Arizona. 
 
 Arizona contains the largest body of farming land between Kansas and 
 California, and these and other private irrigation projects insure its rapid 
 development. It offers all altitudes from near sea level to 1 2,000 feet above, 
 and a variety of climates from cold and temperate to semi-tropical. 
 
 Mohave County was one of the four original counties of Arizona. It is 
 the home of the Mohave Indians and of the Wollapais (properly Hualpais), 
 a smaller band of Indians of mixed stock, who gave efficient aid to General 
 Crook in his Apache campaigns. The Wollapais are wonderful trailers and 
 can follow a man or animal for days by clues the keenest white man would 
 miss. 
 
 Mohave is one of the richest mining sections of Arizona and contains 
 some of the oldest mining towns, among them Mineral Park, which was once 
 the county seat, and after years of desertion is now prosperous and growing. 
 Kingman, the largest city of Mohave County, was once a cattle town, but 
 is now a rich mining center. 
 
 Flagstaff, in the heart of the Mogollon Forest, was so named from a tall 
 pine tree trimmed up and used as a flag pole by one of the first parties to 
 camp on the site. Near it are strange ice caves of unknown extent and a 
 cliff village, numbering hundreds of cave houses. Flagstaff is the scene of 
 a great saw mill and lumber industry, and near it many thousands of 
 ties were cut for the building of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This line, 
 
 16 
 
now the Santa Fe Pacific, still draws many of its ties from the Flagstaff 
 forests. 
 
 The only Mission which has survived to the present day is that of San 
 Xavier del Bac, nine miles south of the city of Tucson. This building is 
 one of the most beautiful specimens of early Spanish architecture in the 
 United States. Its interior decoration, elaborate and intricate in the extreme, 
 is still wonderfully preserved. The building itself has recently been restored 
 and the walls strengthened and safeguarded. 
 
 The city of Tucson is the oldest in Arizona and one of the most inter- 
 esting in the United States. It was originally surrounded by a high adobe 
 wall to insure protection against the hostile Indians and was garrisoned by 
 Spanish, and later by Mexican, troops. It came into the possession of the 
 United States by the Gadsden purchase of 1853. The Carnegie Institute 
 of Washington, D. C. (endowed with 25 millions), has its Department of 
 Botanical Research located here with laboratories, shops and a reservation 
 of land and reservoirs. 
 
 Arizona's population, as given by the new census, was 204,345, a gain 
 of 66.2 per cent, in ten years. 
 
CALIFORNIA 
 
 Motto of California, "Eureka" "I have found it." 
 
 In 1534 Cortez sent Hernando de Grijalva on an errand of discovery 
 to the Pacific Coast, and he probably saw the Peninsula of California. 
 Twenty-five years before a romance was published in Spain in which are 
 described the doings of a pagan Queen of Amazons who brought from the 
 "right hand of the Indies" her allies to assist the infidels in their attack upon 
 Constantinople. The romance was entitled, "Esplandian," the name of an 
 imaginary Greek emperor living in Stamboul, the Turkish name of Con- 
 stantinople. The Amazonian Queen, whose kingdom was rich in gold, dia- 
 monds and pearls, was called California. The author probably derived the 
 name from Calif, the title of a successor of Mohamed. The author says: 
 "Know that on the right hand of the Indies there is an Island called Cali- 
 fornia, very close to the Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black 
 women without any man amongst them, for they live in the fashion of the 
 Amazonians. They are of strong and hearty bodies, of ardent courage and 
 of great force. Their island is the strongest in all the world with its steep 
 cliffs and rocky shores. Their arms are all of gold and so is the harness 
 of the wild beasts which they tame and ride. For in the island there is no 
 metal but gold. They live in caves wrought out of the rocks with much 
 labor. They have many ships with which they sail to the other countries 
 to obtain booty." 
 
 Another suggested derivation of the State's name is from the Spanish 
 "Caliente Fornalla" "hot furnace," but is not accepted by Californians, 
 as it conveys a wrong idea of the climate. 
 
 Both Cortez and Grijalva believed that they were in the neighborhood 
 of the Coast of Asia, and as the aspect of the country corresponded with the 
 description in the romance, they named the peninsula California. 
 
 The first white man who made the overland trip to California was Cap- 
 tain J. S. Smith. He left Salt Lake, then a trading post of the Rocky 
 Mountain Fur Company, with 1 5 hunters and trappers on August 28, 
 1 826, to find a new country in which to hunt and trap. Traveling in a 
 southerly direction he discovered a river which he called the "Adams," now 
 known as the "Rio Virgin"; following it to its junction with the Colorado. 
 He continued down the latter until he came to a Mohave village where 
 he rested and then went across the desert to San Gabriel Mission in De- 
 cember, 1 826. The arrival of an armed party of Americans from across 
 
 18 
 
the mountains alarmed the native Californians and the prospectors were 
 thrown into jail, but were soon liberated and then went through the Cajon 
 Pass into Tulare County. By the first of May Captain Smith reached a 
 fork of the Sacramento River near where the town of Folsom is now lo- 
 cated, and established a summer camp on the river now known as the 
 "American River" from that circumstance. The route taken by Captain 
 Smith's party is substantially the same as that followed by overland emi- 
 gration in later years. 
 
 It may be regarded as a settled historical fact that the first authenticated 
 discovery of gold in California (which excited no particular attention at the 
 time) was made on the San Francisco Rancho in the San Feliciano Canon, 
 Los Angeles County (ten miles northwest of Newhall and about forty miles 
 northwest of Los Angeles), on March 9, 1840, by Francisco Lopes. 
 Eight years later Marshall's discovery of gold on the south fork of the 
 American River in El Dorado County startled the world, and during the 
 next eighteen months 1 50,000 gold seekers arrived in California. 
 
 Reverend Walter Colton, while acting as Alcalde of Monterey in 1 846- 
 1847, impaneled the first jury ever summoned in California. The case 
 involved property on the one side and integrity of character on the other, 
 one-third of the jury being Mexican, one-third Californians, and one-third 
 Americans. A compromise verdict was given. One recovered property and 
 the other his character. An interpreter was needed in the trial. 
 
 By the defeat of the Mexican Army under Flores at the battles of Paso 
 de Bartola and La Mesa, and the capture of Los Angeles by Commodore 
 Stockton and General Kearny on January 10, 1847, the transition was 
 made from Mexican to American rule. 
 
 The first overland stage line was established in 1857, the route being 
 from San Antonio de Baxon, Texas, to San Diego, California, via El Paso, 
 Yuma and Tucson. The service was bi-monthly. The first overland mail 
 left San Diego on August 9, 1857. 
 
 There seems to be a general misapprehension among those who have never 
 visited California in reference to its climate. Not so many years ago, when 
 Los Angeles had 20,000 people, some went so far as to say: "There is 
 nothing to support such a population but climate." While of course that 
 statement was a narrow one, it did rather grudgingly intimate that Southern 
 California had at least a small asset in the way of climate. Los Angeles 
 now has a population of over 300,000, and is quite likely within ten or 
 fifteen years to be in the million class. It must not be supposed that all 
 California is alike in climate, for the temperature is extremely varied. South- 
 ern California has an all-the-year-round climate, and at Los Angeles the 
 
 [Q 
 
records of the Weather Bureau show that trie thermometer went below 32 
 degrees only 6 times during 1 years. 
 
 Extreme northern California has some snow in winter, while San Fran- 
 cisco is colder in summer than winter, with heavy clothing acceptable in 
 August. The old minstrel description of an appropriate costume for San 
 Francisco was, "a linen duster trimmed with fur." 
 
 Near the Arizona line it is exceedingly hot in summer. Other portions of 
 the State, and notably Southern California, have a happy position between 
 these two extremes, and as compared with Florida have the great advantage 
 of not only a charming winter climate, but one which allows outdoor life 
 with every comfort every day in the year. Winter (so-called) is not heralded 
 by driving snow or icy blasts, but by green on the hillsides after the first 
 rain, and while the mornings and evenings are cooler, flowers are not injured 
 nor touched by frost. The winter season is marked by the rains which 
 come between November and April, but is really spring as compared with 
 the East. The annual rainfall in the vicinity of Los Angeles for the past 
 25 years averaged about 1 6 inches. Thunder storms are rarely experienced, 
 and cyclones are unknown. The average of clear or partially clear days 
 through the year is 3 1 6 days. The cool trade wind from the Pacific modi- 
 fies the summer heat, and in winter there is a warm return current from 
 the south. The ocean temperature at Santa Monica (near Los Angeles) 
 in January is 61 degrees, as compared with 32 degrees at Newport on the 
 Atlantic at the same time. 
 
 Consumptives are particularly benefited by the pure, dry air. In the entire 
 State of California deaths from diseases of the respiratory organs are less 
 than ten per cent., of which more than half are imported. The proportion 
 oi deaths from the same causes in New York are 20 per cent. ; 24 per cent, 
 in Michigan, and 27 per cent, in Maine. 
 
 In 1909 the value of California's agricultural and mineral products was 
 more than $350,000,000, and San Francisco, as its chief city, profited 
 by the enormous resulting trade. 
 
 California is now the world's greatest oil producer. Its proven oil fields 
 already amount to 850 square miles, with a present annual production of 
 about 65,000,000 barrels. 
 
 In Riverside, since 1904, 9,000 trees have been planted by the city, 
 making 34 miles of tree-lined streets, with 40 feet between trees. 
 
 In Orange County are the most extensive celery fields in the world, the 
 annual shipments being 2,500 carloads, largely attributable to the fore- 
 sight of a commission merchant of Kansas City, named Smeltzer, who 
 went to Southern California some 1 5 years ago to investigate the muck- 
 lands of Orange County. Mr. Smeltzer was a handler of celery, who 
 
 20 
 
realized its possibilities and knew that nowhere in the East were there 
 such thousands of acres of this peculiar soil in one continuous tract. With 
 seed imported from France, an experimental acre was planted with re- 
 sults that exceeded all expectation. There are now in this small county, 
 which borders on the Pacific ocean, 5,000 acres of celery under profitable 
 cultivation. The muck is several feet deep, is jet black, and so free from 
 grit that it is nearly as fine as flour. The fertility of the soil is such that 
 celery growers have no fertilizer bills to pay. 
 
 Southern California produced in 1910 about 9,000 tons of English 
 walnuts. 
 
 One of New York's leading merchants recently visited the Pacific Coast 
 for the first time, and on return gave his impressions as follows : 
 
 "I always had the idea (possessed, I am afraid, by many mistaken Amer- 
 icans) that the Mediterranean countries, the Riviera, and the famous resorts 
 abroad, surpassed in climate and natural beauty anything possible to be 
 seen anywhere else, but there is nothing to surpass the Grand Canon of 
 Arizona. Its vastness and awe-inspiring character are far beyond my power 
 to describe. There could be nothing more impressive than the marvelous 
 giant trees, nothing so pleasing as the beautiful country of California. And 
 the climate of that far West, combined with the ever-varying scenery, sinks 
 the Riviera into insignificance." 
 
 The advice of Horace Greeley is more vitally important to-day than 
 ever. The young man who does not fear work would best take up his. 
 traps and go west. The man with enterprise, earnest working capacity 
 and any energy wo;rth while will there find a great field of endeavor. 
 
 "The spirit of th e West, a spirit that America may well be proud of, is 
 personified in the p eople of San Francisco. The energy, pluck, enterprise 
 and go-ahead-ativewesf, of these people have built on the ruins of old San 
 Francisco a bigger and more modern city than ever." 
 
 In 1835, Rich ard H. Dana, Jr., in his "Two Years Before the Mast," 
 referring to the J J a y of San Francisco, said: "If ever California becomes 
 a prosperous coi mtr y, this bay will be the center of its prosperity." Here 
 is one of the gr *atest harbors in the world, with a tidal reservoir of seventy- 
 nine square mi' #$ completely land-locked. 
 
 ban rranc &co j s the largest city west of Chicago and St. Louis, the 
 central port r a jl tne Pacific seacoast between Panama and Puget Sound, 
 and the gre A test single trading and shipping point in all the region between 
 the Mississ- ppj anc j the Pacific, and between Canada and Mexico, a region 
 comprisin' ^ ^,0^ than two-thirds the area of the United States. 
 
 It will fog vitally affected by the completion of the Panama Canal, for it is 
 close to ^ jjjje jj,^, o f the gteal; <orcle between Panama- and all Asia. The 
 
 21 
 
census returns show that this city has a population 416,912, or 21.6 per 
 cent, more than in 1900. As a New York paper aptly observes: "In the 
 previous census period the increase had been only 53,785, or 14.6 per cent. 
 The figures are the more interesting because the period between 1 890 and 
 1900 was a 'boom' time in California. Fruit prices were good, the country 
 flourished, and the city acquired a new importance to the nation by reason 
 of the increase of our Pacific trade. But the years between 1 900 and 1910 
 brought many evils to the city by the Golden Gate. An earthquake, a 
 destructive fire, a financial panic, a prolonged strike, and a still longer period 
 of civic dissension destroyed property, hampered industry, and checked 
 enterprise. 
 
 "But San Francisco has grown more rapidly during the decade of dis- 
 aster than during the decade of boom. Evidently progress is not wholly 
 dependent upon easy times. The rebuilt, expanded and augmented city 
 stands as proof that disaster itself can be turned to profit by energy and 
 courage. In all human prosperity the master factor is the human will." 
 
 The adjacent cities of Oakland and Berkeley have increases of 124.3 
 and 206 per cent., respectively, and thus the metropolitan area of San 
 Francisco has a gross population well up to 650,000. 
 
 Since the great fire one of the most extensive buyers of land in the city 
 has been the Southern Pacific Railroad, and its purpose is to establish in the 
 business district some of the largest and most convenient terminals in the 
 country. Not less than fifty million dollars will be thus invested by the com- 
 pany. It has bought many blocks and parts of blocks in the heart of the whole- 
 sale district. Surveys for the tracks and tunnel through a hill have been com- 
 pleted, along with plans for buildings for delivery and loading. A cut-off run- 
 ning south from the city and connecting with the main line again has cost nine 
 million dollars. A cut-off into the city crosses the upper arm of the bay on a 
 long bridge and trestle, and covers a distance of thirty-two miles, at a cost of 
 three million dollars. An expensive short piece of track with tunnel, gives 
 a rail outlet to the army docks to be built by the National Government. The 
 company has provided four million dollars for this branch. It has also 
 bought a large area of water lots to be filled in for terminal extensions. 
 
 For these improvements the company has asked no gifts from the city, 
 and proposes no extra tolls. 
 
 The city is fortunate in its location and surroundings. It overlooks the 
 Bay of San Francisco; in the foothills to the west is Sausalito; on the left, 
 Oakland, and on the right is Berkeley, the seat of the University of Cali- 
 fornia, which, in addition to the attractions that lend charm to a college 
 town, has a residence section with a natural adornment every day in the 
 year of luxuriant vines, foliage and green lawns. Adjoining Oakland is 
 
Alameda, in the county of that name, while directly across are the uplands, 
 dotted with villas and their extensive grounds. 
 
 The Pueblo of Los Angeles was founded September 4th, 1 789, and 
 was made a Ciudad (city) in May, 1835. 
 
 The transcontinental railroad was completed by a junction of the lines 
 from the East and the West at -Promontory, Utah, May 1 2, 1 869. 
 This was followed by the completion of the Santa Fe Railroad system to 
 Los Angeles, which inspired a real estate boom in 1886 and 1887. The 
 population of Los Angeles increased more in these two years than it had 
 done before in nearly a century. 
 
 In July, 1 909, by the consolidation of Wilmington and San Pedro with 
 Los Angeles, the control of the outer and inner harbor passed to Los Angeles. 
 
 Los Angeles, as shown by the last census, has a population of 319,198, 
 as compared with 102,479 in 1900, and 50,395 in 1890. The increase 
 from 1900 to 1910, therefore, is 216,719, or 21 1.5 per cent., compared 
 with an increase for the preceding decade of 52,084, or 103.4 per cent. 
 The city has risen from the thirty-seventh position in 1 900 to the seventeenth 
 place in 1910, and has outstripped such older cities as Jersey City, Kansas 
 City, Indianapolis, Providence, Louisville, Rochester, St. Paul and Denver. 
 This increase in the last ten years is the largest percentage of gain ever 
 shown by any of the larger American cities. A near approach to it is that 
 of Chicago between 1860 and 1870, when that city rose from 1 10,000 to 
 299,000. 
 
 In volume of building operations last year Los Angeles stood fourth in 
 the United States, with values of $2 1 ,684, 1 00. 
 
 The climate is agreeable and invigorating. 
 
 The city has voted $23,000,000 in bonds for the purpose of bringing a 
 river of water from Owens Valley, 240 miles distant in the Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains, 4,000 feet above sea level. This will supply water for a city 
 of a million, and in addition will irrigate many thousands of acres, and 
 produce electric power of the estimated equivalent of 1 00,000 horse power. 
 
 The first that is known of the city now called Oakland, was in 1 786, 
 when a man by the name of Peralta was granted a tract of land which 
 comprised the greater part of Alameda County. He gave this tract to his 
 two sons, one of whom was called Antonio, and his territory extended as 
 far as San Leandro, and in time was called San Antonio, afterwards Oak- 
 land, so-called from the dense growth of oak trees. 
 
 The first actual settler was Moses Chase. The house that he built in 
 the winter of 1 849, then consisting of one room, is now standing enlarged 
 to nineteen rooms, in East Oakland, and has been occupied all of these years 
 by members of the Chase family. 
 
 23 
 
Three men Moon, Carpentier, and Adams soon followed Moses 
 Chase, and squatted upon the land, claiming that it belonged to the Govern- 
 ment, and not to the Peraltas. They laid out the town, and were the first to 
 attract public attention to Oakland. 
 
 In 1 852 the town was incorporated with a Board of Trustees composed of 
 five members: A. W. Burrell, A. J. Moon, Edison Adams, Amedee Marier 
 and H. W. Carpentier. In that year Carpentier built the first school house 
 located at Fifth and Clay streets, and received for this the Oakland water 
 front, granted to him by the town trustees for 37 years. This has been in 
 court for many years, and was recently decided in favor of the city. In this 
 year the first church, St. John's Episcopal, was built, and still occupies 
 its original site. 
 
 Communication between Oakland and San Francisco was carried on by 
 whale boats, and in 1851 the Court of Sessions granted a license to Car- 
 pentier and Moon to run a ferry from Contra Costa, in the township of 
 San Antonio, to San Francisco, fixing the tariff for one person at one dollar, 
 and for each horse three dollars. 
 
 In 1 854 the City of Oakland was incorporated, and Carpentier was 
 elected first mayor. In that year a fire department was organized, a police 
 department established, and the first newspaper, "The Contra Costa," made 
 its appearance. 
 
 In 1855, a dry goods store was opened at Broadway and Second street, 
 by a Mr. Gallagher, who was also postmaster. 
 In 1 864 the street railway system was started. 
 
 In 1 865 the Oakland & Alameda Water Company was formed, bring- 
 ing water from Temescal Creek. 
 
 In 1 866 great progress was made in manufactures, and the City Hall was; 
 planned and built, but before it was paid for it was burned, and many 
 valuable papers pertaining to the ownership of the water front were de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 The University of California, instituted by act of the Legislature of March 
 23d, 1868, began instruction in Oakland, September 23d, 1869. 
 
 In 1872 the county seat of Alameda County was moved from Sam 
 Leandro to Oakland. The population in 1860 was 1,543. In 1900' 
 Oakland had a population of 66,900. Its population as given by the last 
 census was 150,174, an increase of 124.3 per cent. Its climate has been 
 described as not merely a comfort, but an asset. Its death-rate is but 1 per 
 1 ,000 of population. 
 
 One of the finest scenic railways in the State is the Foothill Boulevard, 
 from Oakland to Hayward, which is I 2 miles long, with a 70 foot roadway, 
 ^en-foot sidewalks, and rock gutters for the entire distance. The Portola 
 
 24 
 
Automobile Races, in which all records were broken, were held on this 
 Boulevard. 
 
 Adjoining Oakland on the north is Berkeley, the site of the University 
 of California, where is also located the famous open-air Greek Theatre, 
 with a seating capacity of 10,000. 
 
 Oakland has a rich back country, as the Alameda, Livermore, San Ramon 
 and Moraga Valleys pour their produce and trade into the city. The 
 first beet sugar manufactory established in the United States was located 
 at Alvarado, near Oakland. California produces more beet sugar than any 
 other State in the Union, excepting Colorado. 
 
 Sacramento (originally known as New Helvetia) was started in 1 849, 
 and has been the State capital since 1854. It had slow growth up to 1900, 
 with a population at that time of but 29,282. In 1910, according to the 
 census, the city increased to 44,696, a gain of 52.6 per cent. It is the 
 natural center of a very rich fruit and agricultural country which is fast 
 being developed. Its resources entitle it to a much greater advance in popula- 
 tion. Its continuous and rapid growth now seems assured. 
 
 Thirty years ago a few citizens of Indiana learned of the advantages of 
 climate and soil possessed by Southern California and sent their agents to 
 spy out the land. They reported favorably on the San Gabriel Valley 
 and about a dozen families from Indiana soon arrived, purchased a large 
 tract, and this little colony was the beginning of Pasadena. It is a city of 
 homes and churches and, like Greeley, Colorado, has been without saloons 
 from its start and never missed them. There are few other cities of like 
 population, possessing so many beautiful residences, with extensive grounds 
 and such a wealth of flowers, trees and vines. Although but twelve miles 
 from Los Angeles, it declines annexation, and proud of its past, is secure 
 in its present and confident of its future. In a generation it has sprung from 
 a pasture to a city of over 30,000. The valley of which it is a part was 
 turned out by Nature, it is said; as a sample of what can be done in the 
 way of things beautiful, and Pasadena is the "Crown of the Valley." Ten 
 years ago its population was 9,1 1 7. The last census give 30,291, showing 
 an increase of 252.2 per cent. The charm of this little city cannot be ex- 
 aggerated. Its climate has a mean temperature of 53 in February to 72 in 
 August, and an annual rainfall of 20.29 inches, as shown by the records 
 of the past 25 years. Cyclones, earthquakes, and tornadoes are unknown. 
 
 President Taft remarked of his visit there: "I should like to make my 
 home in this favored section, where I observe every element of luxury, and 
 that which I am glad to encourage one of the best golf links in the 
 country." 
 
 San Diego (Saint James), being at the southernmost extremity of the 
 
 25 
 
United States, has been somewhat overlooked by immigrants, the majority 
 of whom seem to have yielded to the seductions of other points in Cali- 
 fornia farther north, and yet San Diego City and County have strong claims 
 for attention. The climate is even and the city is located overlooking the 
 ocean and the attractive peninsula of Coronado, which forms the Bay of 
 San Diego. 
 
 It is the first port of call on the Pacific in the United States north of the 
 Panama Canal; is the outlet of the Southwest and Southern California on 
 the Pacific, and is the farthest Western terminus of transcontinental traffic 
 by all the Southern railway lines. The San Diego and Arizona Railway, 
 between San Diego and Yuma, will open the most direct route between 
 the Middle West and the Pacific Ocean on the new track of commerce 
 between Panama and the ports of the Far East. 
 
 San Diego was the beginning of things in that section of what was after- 
 ward the United States. It was here that Cabrillo landed in 1 54.2. That 
 was the discovery of California. Here Father Junipero Serra in 1 769 
 founded the first of the California missions, which is still standing. That 
 was the commencement of civilization on the Pacific Coast. Agriculture 
 and industry had their beginning at San Diego. It was a permanent settle- 
 ment and an organized community long before any other site had been 
 chosen for that purpose in Western America. 
 
 The claim that San Diego has the most even climate in the United States 
 is a large one, but is said to be based on statistics covering a period of 
 sixty years. 
 
 There is a charm about the city and its surroundings that often changes 
 visitors to permanent residents. Its population showed an advance accord- 
 ing to the census of 123.6 per cent., increasing from 17,700 in 1900 to 
 39,5 78 in 1910. 
 
 Near San Diego is the Sweetwater Dam, which holds in reserve for 
 irrigating purposes nearly 6,000,000,000 gallons. 
 
 The lovers of outdoor life can find here a wealth of flowers and vines, 
 with a great variety of wild flowers throughout the entire county. 
 
 Stockton, the "Gateway City," as it has been called, is situated about 
 75 miles east of the Golden Gate, at the head of tidewater navigation near 
 the San Joaquin River. It is the distributing point of the San Joaquin Val- 
 ley, the center of a rich agricultural district, a city of many important manu- 
 factures, and an important railroad center. It is one of the older settled 
 cities of California, and its location and resources of its tributary country 
 have maintained its steady prosperity and continued growth. 
 
 It has not only an open waterway that has been navigated for 50 years, 
 but has four railways for distributing its varied products. It has a large 
 
 26 
 
flour and grain trade and its solidity and soundness make it a city of which 
 Californians are justly proud. 
 
 The California Republican State Convention of 1910 adopted a reso- 
 lution favoring submission to the votes of a constitutional amendment pro- 
 viding for woman suffrage. 
 
 California's gain in population from 1900 to 1910 of 892,496 is 
 greater than that made by any other State excepting New York and Penn- 
 sylvania, its advance from the twenty-first to the twelfth place ranking it now 
 with the dozen strongest and most populous States of the Union. 
 
COLORADO 
 
 Motto of Colorado: "Nil sine numine," "Nothing without God." 
 
 The first American explorer to penetrate to the mountains of Colorado 
 was Lieutenant Zebulon Pike, sent out with a small party by General Wil- 
 kinson in 1 806. He approached within 1 5 miles of the Rocky Mountain 
 peak which bears his name. A more extensive official exploration of the 
 country was made in 1819 by Major Stephen H. Long, whose report upon 
 the whole region drained by the Missouri, Arkansas, and Platte Rivers and 
 their tributaries was unfavorable and discouraging. Fremont's explorations, 
 which touched Colorado, were made in 1843-1844. The only persons 
 encountered in the Rocky Mountains by Fremont at this time were the few 
 remaining traders and their former employers and colonists, who lived with 
 their Mexican and Indian wives and half-breed children in a primitive man- 
 ner, usually under the protection of some defensive structure called a fort. 
 The first Mexican families in Colorado were a part of the Mormon bat- 
 talion of 1 846, who, with their wives and children, resided at Pueblo from 
 September to the spring and summer of the following year, when they joined 
 the Mormon emigration to Salt Lake. Measures were taken early in March, 
 1847, to select locations for two United States forts between the Missouri 
 and the Rocky Mountains, the sites selected being those now occupied by 
 Kearney City and Laramie. Up to 1853 Colorado's scant population still 
 lived in or near some defensive establishment and had been decreasing rather 
 than increasing for the past decade, owing to the hostility of the Indians. 
 In 1858 the first organized searching or prospecting for gold in the region 
 was made by a party of Cherokee Indians and whites. Other parties soon 
 followed; the search succeeded, and the Pike's Peak Mountain region was 
 speedily swarming with eager adventurers. In the fall of 1858 two rival 
 towns were laid out on the opposite sides of Cherry Creek. They were 
 named respectively Auraria and Denver. The struggle for existence between 
 them was bitter, but brief. Auraria succumbed and Denver survived, to 
 become the metropolis of the mountains. The first attempt at political organ- 
 ization was made at the Auraria settlement in November, 1858, and took 
 the form of a provisional territorial organization, under the name of the 
 Territory of Jefferson, but the provisional government did not succeed in 
 establishing its authority, opposed as it was by conflicting claims to terri- 
 torial jurisdiction on the part of Utah, New Mexico, Kansas, Nebraska, and 
 Dakota. At length on the 28th of February, 1861, an act of Congress 
 
 28 
 
became law by which the proposed new territory was duly created, but not 
 bearing the name of Jefferson. The name of Colorado was given to it on 
 the suggestion of the men selected for its first government. Some wanted 
 it called Jefferson, some Auraria. In consideration of the fact that the people 
 had to a great extent named the States after the great rivers of the country 
 and the great feature of that country was the Colorado River, it was finally 
 decided to name the district Colorado. Remaining in the territorial condi- 
 tion until July, 1876, Colorado was then admitted into the Union as a State. 
 
 In 1 868 Golden, with a population of 1 ,000, was the capital of Colo- 
 rado. Denver then had but 5,000. The last census gave its population 
 as 2 1 3,889, an increase of 59.4 per cent, in ten years. 
 
 The "Queen City of the Plains," as Denver is appropriately termed, has 
 an area of 60 square miles, and is situate 1 2 miles east of the foothills of 
 the Rocky Mountains, near the north central part of the State, at the junction 
 of the Platte River and Cherry Creek. The city has grown in a half cen- 
 tury far beyond the dreams of its early settlers, and is now thoroughly mod- 
 ern and progressive. Its residence section is exceptionally attractive. Frame 
 buildings are prohibited, and consequently Denver is a city of brick and 
 stone. It has nearly 800 factories, with an annual output of over $75,- 
 000,000 in values; 19 banks, 196 churches, 66 public schools, an ample 
 supply of mountain water and 238 miles of improved streets. The State 
 Capitol, a massive structure of Colorado granite, stands on the crest of the 
 west slope of Capitol Hill, one of the finest residence sections. The grounds 
 cover three full squares. 
 
 Denver is still the metropolis of the mining region and of a great agri- 
 cultural and horticultural region as well. It is the gateway of the mountain 
 scenery of the "Switzerland of America," as Colorado has been called, 
 and is visited by more than 100,000 tourists annually. The altitude 
 (5,270 feet) and dry air, with sunshine averaging 345 days in the year, 
 give the city a climate that makes life worth living. The value of its 
 new buildings and building improvements in 1910 was $11,319,955. 
 
 In the valley of the Grand River, midway between Denver and Salt Lake 
 City, there is now a fruit region 25 miles long and from three to ten miles 
 wide, with a planted area of 20,000 acres, 75 per cent, of the fruit being 
 handled by an association in the same way that California oranges and 
 lemons are sold through the California Fruit Exchange. 
 
 Some of the rarest and most valuable metals in the world are found in 
 Colorado, comprising tungsten, tantalum, molybdenum, vanadium, and ura- 
 nium. Until a comparatively short time ago these rare metals were left in 
 the dump heap at the mines, being deemed not only valueless, but actually 
 detrimental to the concentration of the ore which was considered of value. 
 
In Boulder County, Colorado, the miners used to throw away what they 
 called "black jack." Now that they know "black jack" to be wolfenite, 
 an ore of tungsten, they are carefully smelting the dump heaps, as tungsten 
 is in demand for incandescent lamp filaments, for fireproofing and for fixing 
 dyes. Tungsten steel is extremely tough and makes the best compass 
 needles. 
 
 Uranium, the most interesting of all the rare metals, which is found in 
 Gilpin County, was recognized as an element in 1 782 by the chemist 
 Klaproth, who named it after the planet Uranus. The chief ore of uranium 
 is uranite, commonly called pitchblende, and from pitchblende comes radium. 
 
 The completion of the Roosevelt Tunnel, draining the mines, is equiva- 
 lent to the discovery of a new Cripple Creek. That camp has produced 
 about $300,000,000 in gold and is still producing about $15,000,000 
 from the workings above the water level. The Cripple Creek mining dis- 
 trict is a huge volcanic crater about three miles wide and four miles long, 
 in which prior to the completion of the Roosevelt Tunnel operations were 
 necessarily suspended below the old water level. Now that the completion 
 of that tunnel insures their drainage, ores can be extracted which have been 
 blocked out with an estimated value of about $312,000,000. 
 
 Colorado Springs, one of the most attractive cities in Colorado from the 
 standpoint of climate and scenic beauty, and noted for the wealth and enter- 
 prise of its citizens and for its large proportion of handsome residences, 
 increased its population 37.9 per cent, from 1900 to 1910. 
 
 Leadville, which enjoys the unique distinction of being about two miles 
 above sea level, has taken on new life owing to a remarkable mineral dis- 
 covery. For the past thirty years tens of thousands of tons of certain red, 
 brown and gray rock and white crystals have been thrown upon the mine 
 dumps as worthless. Mining experts, professors of mineralogy and practical 
 mining men from every quarter of the globe have seen this stuff, and not 
 one of them took the trouble to find out what it was. It has recently been 
 discovered that the queer-looking materials were carbonate and silicate of 
 zinc, and at the present time as high as $20 a ton net is being realized from 
 these ores taken from stopes 30 years old, heretofore regarded as of no value. 
 It now seems probable that the annual ore production of Leadville will soon 
 be increased from $9,000,000 to $1 5,000,000 or more. 
 
 The same political rights are accorded to women and men in Colorado, 
 and both may vote at elections on equal terms. Colorado was the second 
 State to establish woman suffrage, in 1 893, twenty-four years after Wyom- 
 ing made the pioneer record in that line. 
 
 Colorado's population increased 48 per cent, from 1 900 to 1910. In 
 that period Pueblo, the "Pittsburgh of the West," showed the large increase 
 of 57.7 per cent. 
 
 30 
 
HAWAII 
 
 The Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands are a group of eight large islands and 
 some islets in the North Pacific Ocean, bordering on the tropics, something 
 over 2,000 miles southwest of San Francisco. The Islands are mountainous, 
 containing several well-known volcanoes. Among their many products cane 
 sugar leads as an article of export, followed by pineapples, rice, bananas, 
 and hides. 
 
 Previous to 1 894 Hawaii was ruled by native kings, and in that year 
 became a republic ruled by a president and two houses in Congress, and 
 continued so until it was annexed to the United States in 1 900. 
 
 Although these Islands are situate in the Torrid Zone, they escape the 
 sweltering heats found elsewhere within a similar latitude. The reason for 
 this favored climate is that Hawaii is surrounded with a uniformly cool ocean, 
 which derives its surface waters almost direct from the enormous Antarctic 
 glacier. 
 
 The largest island of the group Hawaii contains 4,015 square miles, 
 or about the area of the State of Connecticut. Hawaii is self-governing 
 in an equal degree with our former territories. The executive power is 
 vested in a governor, who is appointed by the President, as is also the 
 Territorial Secretary, but both of these officials must be citizens of the 
 territory. 
 
 The aboriginal people were Polynesians and probably first came from 
 Tahiti as early as A. D. 500. The ancient Hawaiians were barbarians, 
 but never cannibals. Civilization was introduced to the Islands by Captain 
 Cook's discovery in 1 778. The Island of Oahu, on which the City of 
 Honolulu is situate, is third in point of size; the first in importance among 
 the Islands of the Hawaiian Group, and is the strategic centre of the United 
 States' interests in the Pacific. Here is located the magnificent landlocked 
 arm of the sea, Pearl Harbor, in which the Navy Department has begun 
 the construction of what is expected to be the greatest naval base in the 
 world. Honolulu has cable connection with San Francisco, and with the 
 Asiatic continent via Midway Islands, Guam and the Philippines. Each 
 Island of the group has its own telephone system reaching every district, while 
 the separate Islands are connected by a wireless telegraph system. 
 
 One of the recent growing industries is that of pineapple culture, the 
 annual output being over 1 0,000,000 cans of what are claimed to be the 
 finest pineapples in the world. 
 
 The Hon. Oscar S. Straus complimented the City of Honolulu by 
 
saying: "1 have seen much of the world. I am familiar with those places 
 which are the favored lands for tourists, and my eight days' stay here has 
 convinced me that there is no land on the face of the earth, considering 
 climate and population, beauty of scenery and charms of hospitality, which 
 offers so much to the tourist either in health or pleasure as this Eden of 
 the Pacific." 
 
 Hawaii increased in population 24.6 per cent, in the last decade. 
 
 The following fairy tale has had a wide circulation outside of Honolulu: 
 
 A friend met a cheerful Irish citizen in San Francisco, who had plainly 
 suffered some hard knocks. 
 
 "Well, Pat, how are you getting along now?" he inquired. 
 
 "Oh, Oi'm hard up yet, but Oi have a fine job in Honolulu, and fare 
 paid. Oi sail to-morrow." 
 
 "Sure, man, you'll never be able to work there. The temperature is 
 100 in the shade." ' 
 
 "Well," he replied, hopefully, "Oi'll not be worrukin' in th' shade all th' 
 toime." 
 
 As a matter of fact, the temperature of Honolulu ranges between 60 and 
 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and its climate is one of the most agreeable in the 
 world. 
 
 Hawaii has no snakes and no malaria. Its climate is ideal for nervous 
 complaints, but those suffering from pulmonary tuberculosis will do better in 
 a dryer air. 
 
 The Hawaiian language consists of but twelve letters. 
 
 According to the census the population of Hawaii from 1900 to 1910 
 increased 24.6 per cent. Honolulu's population was given by the census 
 as 52,183, a gain of 32.8 per cent. 
 
IDAHO 
 
 Motto of Idaho: As a Territory "Salve!" "Hail!" 
 As a State "Esto Perpetua," "Let It Be Perpetual." 
 
 The thirteenth State admitted to the Union was Idaho. It was first 
 explored by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Within its present limits 
 the Coeur d'Alene mission was established in 1842. The region was 
 visited almost exclusively by hunters and trappers till 1 852, when gold was 
 discovered on its present northern boundary. By Act of Congress of March 
 3, 1863, the Territory of Idaho was created from a portion of Oregon 
 Territory, with an area which included the whole of the present State of 
 Montana and nearly all that of Wyoming. A year later the territory lost 
 a part of its area to form the Territory of Montana, and in 1 868 another 
 large portion was cut from it to form the Territory of Wyoming. On July 
 3, 1 890, the territory was admitted into the Union as a State, having then 
 a gross area of 84,800 square miles. Between the dates of its creation as 
 a Territory and a State it became widely noted as a most promising field 
 for gold and silver mining, and for several years later Idaho was classed 
 politically as the silver State. Prospecting, however, developed a large 
 number of rich-paying gold properties and during the copper excitement 
 of 1 898- 1 90 1 many veins of that mineral were found. In 1 899 the gold 
 mines of Idaho yielded $ 1 ,889,000 and the silver mines $2,311 ,080. The 
 development of the various mining interests was seriously retarded for many 
 years by lack of transportation facilities, but by 1900 railroads had been 
 extended to a number of important centers and wagon roads had been con- 
 structed communicating direct with the mining properties. The State also 
 has a net resource of inestimable value in its forests with a great variety of 
 timber, including what is said to be the largest tract of white pine in the 
 world. 
 
 A few years ago Idaho was unheard of as an agricultural State. It cap- 
 tured only one prize for a fruit exhibit at the Buffalo Exposition. At the 
 Chicago World's Fair, however, the older States of the East were surprised 
 to hear that Idaho apples were awarded the first prize, and again at the 
 Ogden (Utah) meeting of the National Irrigation Congress Idaho captured 
 the $500 prize for the best fruit exhibit. The height of the State's achieve- 
 ment was attained a few years later, when at the St. Louis World's Fair, 
 Idaho was awarded the grand prize for her agricultural exhibit. These vic- 
 tories, gained on merit and without influence in the centers of older civiliza- 
 tion, excited the wonder of farming experts throughout the country. With 
 
 33 
 
the long days of sunshine and the moisture that is easily applied at the right 
 time for growing crops, the results secured from the rich soils of Idaho's 
 formerly arid lands are so great as to stagger the credulity of the old-time 
 farmer in the Eastern States, where the natural rainfall is depended upon. 
 The irrigation projects under way provide for over two million acres, with 
 invested capital of $35,500,000. More than a million acres are now open 
 to settlers. 
 
 Idaho extended suffrage to women in 1 896, and as a further advance 
 in progress has an anti-gambling law. 
 
 Boise, the capital city, situate at an elevation of 2,700 feet, had its 
 beginning in the rush for gold in 1 862 to Idaho City, which wonderful 
 camp yielded from its placers some two hundred millions in eight years. The 
 United States Government established Fort Boise on the Boise River, where 
 the trail branched off into the mountains to Idaho City, thirty-six miles 
 away, and in 1 863 the present city of Boise was laid out on the plain 
 between the fort and the river. The climate is mild, and in addition to a 
 well-built business section, the city has such picturesque residences and 
 grounds that it well deserves its title of "The City Beautiful." The Payette- 
 Boise irrigation project of the United States Government will be of great 
 benefit, as it will open up for irrigation 372,000 acres, tributary directly 
 or indirectly to Boise. Its building improvements in 1910 totaled 
 $1,301,190. 
 
 Weiser, about eighty miles west of Boise, is situate on the west bank 
 of the Snake River, and is sometimes called the "Gate City," being situate 
 on the highway of travel and the first city reached by throngs of home- 
 seekers continually moving to the "Irrigated Empire" of Southern Idaho. 
 It is growing rapidly. 
 
 Lewiston is one of the most promising cities in the State, and has such 
 varied resources that it seems certain to show a continued increase in popu- 
 lation. It has a mild winter climate; a very productive farming country; is 
 an important railroad center, and is noted for its orchards and gardens. 
 
 The Nez Perce and Camas prairies are directly tributary to Lewiston, 
 the average annual grain production of this district exceeding ten million 
 bushels. The largest stand of white pine in the world is contiguous to the 
 city, the Government estimate of its merchantable timber being twenty 
 billion feet, and as an evidence of the climate's adaptability to small fruits 
 it is interesting to know that here is the largest acreage in the Northwest 
 of the Bing cherry. 
 
 Lewiston also can boast of one of the largest fruit orchards or commu- 
 nities in this country, comprising at present 6,000 acres and to be increased 
 to 20,000 acres or more. The company operating this tract have solved 
 
 34 
 
two important problems which in many other districts have proved serious 
 handicaps to development. By a system of city water, brought from the 
 mountains and carried in underground pipes, malaria, typhoid and the pest of 
 mosquitoes incident to the old method of irrigating by dead water in open 
 flumes and ditches have been eliminated. They have also established a sys- 
 tem of horticultural inspection and give their fruit growers the benefit of the 
 advice and experience of a staff of experts. 
 
 Idaho more than doubled in population from 1 900 to 1910, the ratio 
 of increase being 101.3 per cent. 
 
 35 
 
MONTANA 
 
 "Your future wealth cannot help being great. You could not 
 keep back a country that will produce what we have seen to-day 
 any more than you could keep the tide out with a pitchfork." 
 
 J. J. Hill, at Montana State Fair, Helena, Sept. 27, 1909. 
 
 All that portion of Montana (the name is from the Latin, meaning 
 mountainous) lying west of the "Continental Divide" was originally included 
 in the Territory of Oregon and remained a portion of that Territory until 
 1853, when Oregon Territory was divided, and it became a part of Wash- 
 ington Territory, until 1 863, when it was included in the Territory of Idaho, 
 until 1 864. It was then included in the Territory of Montana, until Mon- 
 tana was admitted as a State, in 1 889. When that portion of Montana 
 lying west of the Continental Divide was included in the Territories of Ore- 
 gon, Washington, and Idaho, it included the present counties of Missoula, 
 Deer Lodge, Powell, Granite, Ravalli, Flathead, Sanders, and Lincoln. 
 In 1860 the aforesaid section of country was embraced in the limits of 
 Washington Territory, and in that year the Legislature of the Territory of 
 Washington created the County of Missoula, which county included all of 
 the country now included in the eight counties above named. The word 
 "Divide" was applied by the early Western hunters and trappers to a 
 ridge of land which divided waters running in different directions the 
 crest line between the slopes of two drainage systems. The government 
 surveyors naturally applied the term to that portion of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains which forms a natural water-shed between the Atlantic and Pacific 
 oceans, and that, it is believed, was the origin of the felicitous term "Con- 
 tinental Divide." 
 
 The first white settlement was made in the Bitter Root Valley, near the 
 present town of Stevensville by the Jesuit Fathers, under the direction of 
 Father De Smet, and was named St. Mary's Mission. 
 
 In 1852 Benetsee, a half-breed who had lived in California, found small 
 quantities of gold on Gold Creek, in Western Montana. In 1858 the 
 Stuart brothers started mining operations there. The next important dis- 
 covery of gold was on Grasshopper Creek in 1862, and the town of Ban- 
 nack was laid out near the creek in that year. The news of the find spread 
 rapidly and occasioned an inrush of people from the nearby Territories and 
 States, among them some of the wildest adventurers whose names and 
 crimes figure prominently in the early history of the territory. 
 
 36 
 
The first white woman who came to the country was Mrs. Minnie Miller, 
 the wife of Henry G. Miller. On the fifth day of March, 1 862, occurred 
 the first marriage of two white persons within the limits of the present State 
 of Montana, the contracting parties being George P. White and Mrs. Jose- 
 phine Dukes. On February 13, 1 862, in Grass Valley, about eight miles 
 west of Missoula, there was born to R. A. Pelkey and Adeline Pelkey, his 
 wife, a son, this being the first white child born within the limits of the 
 present State of Montana. He was named Jefferson Henry Pelkey, and is 
 now a resident of Missoula County. 
 
 The first newspaper in Montana was issued at Virginia City, August, 
 1864, and the first quartz mill was erected in 1863 the Bannack Hope 
 Mill at Philipsburg, which is still in operation. 
 
 On May 26, 1 863, while a party of miners were fleeing from hostile 
 Indians, they made camp on a small creek and panned some of the gravel 
 on the bar above camp, getting thirty cents in gold to the first pan. Subse- 
 quent pans proved so rich, they decided to return to Bannack for pro- 
 visions. The news of the discovery was divulged, and at least 300 men 
 followed them back to the creek, which was named Alder Creek. It is 
 estimated that Alder Gulch produced sixty million dollars in the fifteen 
 miles that it was worked. Virginia City was built in this gulch, and for 
 years was the commercial and political center of the territory. During the 
 palmy days of '64 and '65 its population was ten thousand people. The 
 next important discovery was in 1 864 at Last Chance Gulch, where Helena 
 stands now, which section rapidly sprang into prominence because of its 
 richness. Helena grew rapidly and soon became the commercial headquar- 
 ters, being but 1 40 miles by an easy road from Fort Benton, the head of 
 navigation on the Missouri River. During the fall of 1 866 a four-horse 
 team hauled over this road for shipment down the river two and one-half tons 
 of gold, worth over $1 ,500,000 nearly all taken from nearby gulches. 
 
 From the branches of the famous Hangman's tree at Helena a total of 
 thirteen men were hanged by the vigilantes, when a zealous clergyman cut 
 the tree down and peddled portions out for canes. 
 
 By Act of Congress in May, 1 864, Montana was taken from the eastern 
 portion of Idaho and organized as a separate Territory, and on November 
 8, 1 889, was made a State. 
 
 The coming of Marcus Daly in 1887 marked the beginning of a remark- 
 able era of development in the Bitter Root Valley. Mr. Daly purchased 
 28,000 acres of land at prices ranging from $2 to $25 an acre. He 
 founded the town of Hamilton, which was named after one of his foremen, 
 and at his stock farm assembled hundreds of the best thoroughbreds. His 
 enterprise and foresight were shown in all directions, but the most enduring 
 
 37 
 
of all his great undertakings was the irrigation system he inaugujated, by 
 which thousands of acres of bench lands were reclaimed and made richly 
 productive. After his untimely death nearly ten years passed before his 
 plans for extensive irrigation were fully carried into effect. Then Sam I. 
 Dinsmore, of Missoula, succeeded in interesting a number of capitalists, 
 including Mr. W. I. Moody, of Chicago. The latter gentleman "swung 
 the big ditch," and as a result of this and other efforts in the same direction, 
 the Bitter Root Valley has obtained a world-wide reputation, especially 
 for the wonderful yields from its apple orchards. The lands which were 
 sold readily to Marcus Daly at an average price of perhaps $ 1 an acre 
 are now valued in the hundreds and pay big interest on the increased valua- 
 tion, some apple orchards having yielded as high as $1,600 per acre in 
 one season. 
 
 In the Bitter Root Valley about 65,000 acres of holdings are now being 
 irrigated and sold to home builders in 5, 10, and 20 acre tracts as a rule. 
 Irrigation is a simple thing. Even the Indians understand it, and make 
 practical use of it. Nearly 20 years ago the Crow Indians put in extensive 
 irrigation works on the Little Big Horn River, on the very ground where a 
 part of Custer's disastrous battle of June 25, 1876, took place. 
 
 In the Yellowstone Valley irrigation is practiced on the bottom lands, 
 but on the high lands dry farming accomplishes fine results by scientific con- 
 servation of the moisture in the soil. Apples appear to be the most profitable 
 crop and certain varieties do better in particular localities than others. The 
 Mclntosh Red is the preferred apple in the Valley of Clark's Fork of the 
 Yellowstone and the Bitter Root Valley. Three acres in the above valley 
 netted $800 an acre. 
 
 The United States Government is now reclaiming 100,000 acres in the 
 Yellowstone Valley, and in addition there are about 300,000 acres under 
 private irrigation. This valley, with its magnificent acreage and tremendous 
 water supply has a wonderful future, with great achievements in irrigation. 
 
 Montana's agricultural possibilities are far greater than its other sources of 
 wealth. The statistics furnished by the United States Department of Agri- 
 culture show that Montana produces yields of all kinds of cereals that are 
 phenomenal. For the past ten years it has averaged 27 bushels of wheat 
 per acre more than twice the average yield per acre of the entire United 
 States 46 bushels of oats, 40 bushels of the highest grade of barley, and 
 24 bushels of rye per acre. This great yield is explained by the fertility of 
 the soil and by the climate, which provides the proper temperature for grain. 
 During the growing season the fact that the number of hours of sunlight 
 is greater than in any other State in the Union is caused by the latitude 
 and from the fact that there are few cloudy days. This has an important 
 
 38 
 
bearing on the crops. In 1 909 Montana raised nearly 1 1 ,000,000 bushels 
 of wheat, valued at $9,304,000. 
 
 The coal lands in Montana, which the Government has withdrawn from 
 public entry, comprise 1 3,500,000 acres, an area nearly as large as 20 
 Rhode Islands. The total coal area now reserved in this State equals all 
 New England, with West Virginia thrown in. 
 
 Montana is the third State in size, with 146,080 square miles and a 
 total of 93,806,080 acres. It claims to be richer in natural wealth than 
 Pennsylvania; has 30,000,000 acres of arable land (with 8,000,000 acres 
 now under cultivation), and has resources sufficient to support in comfort 
 many times its present population. The State is 550 miles east and west 
 and about 300 miles north and south, and is as large as the combined area 
 of New York, Pennsylvania, Indiana, Maryland, and Connecticut. It has 
 one county Custer that is larger than the State of Maryland. Fergus 
 County is as large as Delaware and Connecticut combined. In the next 
 few years Montana is likely to show as rapid development as ever known in 
 any State, as it has the mines, forests, rich agricultural and grazing lands, and 
 water power to contribute to make its settlers independent. 
 
 Butte is situate on the west slope of the main range of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. The town site was laid out in 1857 and patented in 1876, the pop- 
 ulation being at that time about five hundred. Silver Bow County, of which 
 Butte is the principal part, was organized in 1881 and at that time had a 
 population of 5,000. Butte now has about 150 mines in active operation, 
 which produce nearly 6,000,000 tons of ore per year. In 1 905 the Butte 
 mines had an output of 3 1 9,000,000 pounds of copper. There are shipped 
 daily 10,000 tons of ore to the Washoe Smelter at Anaconda, 26 miles 
 distant, for reduction in that smelter, which, with its concentrating plant, is 
 the largest in the world. The mines of Butte require 125,000,000 feet of 
 timber every year. The mining payroll is about $1 ,250,000 per month. 
 
 Butte is one of the best lighted cities in the Northwest. It produces 30 
 per cent, of the copper mined in the United States, and nearly 1 8 per cent, of 
 the copper output of the world, and more silver than any other district in 
 America. The mineral is found in blanket veins, is not confined to a narrow 
 lode, and has a production record of over $900,000,000. Butte is one 
 of the mining wonders of the world, and in a class by itself. It showed 
 an increase of population of 28.5 per cent., according to the last census. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Railroad was constructed in 1 883, reaching 
 Missoula from the west in July, 1 883. 
 
 Helena, the State capital, is one of the oldest cities in Montana and has 
 within a radius of forty miles 400,000 acres suitable for cultivation. The 
 city now has excellent prospects for steady growth, based on the recent 
 
 39 
 
development of its great natural resources. It has an unusually substantial 
 and beautiful class of buildings in its business and residential sections. 
 
 With the increasing flow of immigration additional manufacturing enter- 
 prises will be required, and one of the greatest inducements that Helena 
 offers for the location of these new industries is the electrical power from 
 the plants of the United Missouri River Power Company. These consist of 
 two dams and generating stations on the Missouri River, within 1 5 miles of 
 Helena and a third dam now under construction, these plants representing 
 100,000 horse-power. The dams develop a total head of 220 feet and 
 impound three storage reservoirs, with a total area of 20 square miles. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Railroad was constructed in 1 883 and reached 
 Missoula from the west in July, 1 883. 
 
 Missoula, the "Garden City" of Montana, as it has been aptly termed, is 
 the natural gateway to the Flathead reservation of a million acres recently 
 opened to settlement, and to the Bitter Root valley, added by railway con- 
 struction. Its first buildings were erected in 1 864. During the past five 
 years the city has shown a remarkable growth, has doubled its population 
 and has largely increased its business and residence sections. The State 
 University is one of the city's most important assets. It is supported by legis- 
 lative appropriation and by the income from its land holdings of 46,240 
 acres. The university has a beautiful campus of 40 acres, at the foot of 
 Mount Sentinel and 560 acres on the northern slope of the mountain. Mis- 
 soula is the natural center of a rich country, and should long continue its 
 rapid growth and development. 
 
 To those who look upon Montana as a wild mining country the statement 
 of James J. Hill, the great railroad builder, may be a surprise. He said : 
 
 "Montana in my judgment will be the greatest grain-growing State in 
 the Union, and from what I have seen am not prepared to say that it will 
 not eventually be a great corn State. Montana has within her borders 
 unoccupied agricultural lands practically equal to the entire State of Iowa 
 or the State of Illinois, but neither of those States can even now make as 
 valued an exhibit of general agricultural products as Montana." 
 
 The United States Geological Survey recently reported the discovery of 
 phosphate beds believed to be of great value in western Montana. These 
 deposits are on public lands near Butte, which have been withdrawn from 
 entry pending legislation by Congress as to their control and disposition. 
 
 Montana increased 54.5 per cent, in population from 1900 to 1910. 
 
NEVADA 
 
 Nevada is a part of the extensive territory ceded to the United States at 
 the same time as California by the treaty of Gaudeloupe Hidalgo, in 1 848. 
 This region of the Spanish domain had not, like that west of the Sierra 
 Nevada, or snowy mountain chain, a distinctive name, but was described 
 by local names and divided into valleys. 
 
 In March following the treaty with Mexico and the discovery of gold, the 
 inhabitants of Salt Lake Valley met and organized the State of Deseret, the 
 boundaries of which included the whole of the recently acquired Mexican 
 territory outside of California, and something more. Congress failing to 
 recognize the State of Deseret, created instead, by an act passed on Sep- 
 tember 9, 1850, the Territory of Utah, with boundaries which embraced 
 Nevada likewise. This association was continued until 1861, when the 
 Territory of Nevada was organized by act of Congress out of western Utah. 
 
 Nevada was on the great overland trail of the California gold hunters. 
 It was originally settled by Mormons, the first house being built at Genoa in 
 1851. It was made a Territory in 1 86 1 , and on October 31, 1 864, its 
 present limits were established, and it was formally created a State, as a 
 war measure, on the recommendation of President Lincoln. 
 
 The history of Nevada practically begins with the discovery of the fabu- 
 lously rich Comstock lode in 1 859, on the slope of Mount Davidson. Soon 
 followed a rush for the new El Dorado. In a few years Virginia City 
 was a thriving, turbulent municipality, being in 1 864 the second largest 
 city west of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Numbered among its population were the coming "bonanza kings"- 
 James L. Flood, W. S. O'Brien, James G. Fair (who became United 
 States Senator from Nevada), and John W. Mackay who were destined 
 to play so conspicuous a part in the development of the mineral wealth of 
 Nevada, by which California, and the nation as well, benefited. The tre- 
 mendous good fortune of these men again emphasized the statement that 
 "truth is stranger than fiction." They acquired among other properties, 
 for a nominal figure, an old claim known as the "Central," sunk a shaft on 
 it and uncovered one of the richest bonanzas of gold and silver ore ever 
 discovered, from which over a hundred millions were taken. The despised 
 "Central," which few could be induced to buy at $1.00 a share, at one 
 time had an actual value, based on the market price of "Consolidated Vir- 
 ginia" and "California" (both mines having been carved out of the old 
 "Central"), of $3,000 a share. Another partner named Walker began 
 
mining operations with the four above mentioned, but sold out early to Mr. 
 Mackay, which accounts for the greater wealth acquired by the latter, whose 
 holdings were double those of each of his three associates. 
 
 In the period between 1860 and 1880 other discoveries of precious 
 metals were made and new centers of mining wealth sprang into existence, 
 to flourish until their treasure chambers were exhausted. Between 1 880 and 
 1900 a period of industrial stagnation ensued. The population dwindled 
 and many of the most energetic left for other scenes. The mineral wealth 
 of Nevada during this period was popularly supposed to be almost entirely 
 silver and silver had largely depreciated in value. The prospector lost 
 the interest to search for it, and the operator to mine it. As a result, between 
 1890 and the date of the discovery of Tonopah, mining had languished to 
 very small proportions. 
 
 The New Nevada began with the finding of Tonopah by "Jim ' Butler. 
 It required a year of steady shipments of rich ore before the incredulous 
 public became interested in the reports of the new bonanza. Miners and 
 prospectors then flocked in from neighboring mining States. The neglected 
 hills were again explored, and new finds, some of them of surpassing rich- 
 ness, began to follow one another with fever-producing regularity. The 
 State all at once was discovered to possess greater deposits of gold than of 
 silver. A period of wild speculation ensued. The whole country caught the 
 mining fever to invest in the shares of innumerable mining stock companies 
 good, bad, and indifferent. Then in the financial crash of 1907 the golden 
 bubbles burst, leaving only the mines of real merit to make good the opulent 
 dreams of their possessors. Since that date mining in Nevada has reassumed 
 its rightful position as a specialized and legitimate industry. The State's 
 mineral production for the year 1 909 was about $25,000,000. Six millions 
 of this were represented by the production of copper at Ely, where is now 
 located one of the largest copper concentrating and smelting plants in the 
 world. At Yerington, another great copper district has reached the stage 
 of development wherein, on the completion of the smelters now in course 
 of erection, it should take high rank as a copper producer. 
 
 A territory, whose mineral possibilities can scarcely be exaggerated, will 
 be opened to an army of prospectors within the next two years. It lies in 
 that stretch of desert between Ely, in the southeastern part of the State, and 
 Rhyolite, in the southwest. None but the most daring prospectors have 
 penetrated into that vast waste, because the water supply has never been 
 fully ascertained, and to venture into the desert a hundred miles distant from 
 known sources of water and feed assumes a risk and outlay few care to 
 undertake. However, a line from Ely to Tonopah has been thoroughly 
 surveyed, and construction work will probably soon begin. 
 
 42 
 
Reno is now the largest city in the State, "for all roads lead to Reno." It 
 is beautifully situated on the banks of the Truckee River (noted for its 
 trout), in a fertile and picturesque valley at the base of the Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains. It more than doubled in population in the ten years reported by 
 the last census, and is a railroad and distributing center of growing impor- 
 tance, with a commercial supremacy in the western half of the Great Basin 
 that is never likely to be threatened. It is a thoroughly modern little city, 
 with many miles of cement and asphalt streets and sidewalks; possesses a 
 comprehensive electric street car system, substantial business blocks, theatres, 
 libraries and handsome residences. The State University is located here, as 
 also other important institutions, public and private. An idea of the business 
 transacted is shown by the fact that its post office ranks in the first class and 
 the aggregate resources of its four leading banks amount to $10,000,000, 
 with aggregate deposits of $6,000,000. 
 
 Goldfield, the second largest town, is situated in south central Nevada, 
 in one of the world's largest gold mining districts. About seven years ago 
 this interesting place was an alkali desert studded with sage brush and peo- 
 pled with coyotes and jackrabbits. Eight months after the locality became 
 known to men its output of gold was $1,500,000. The wealth stored 
 in that acrid soil drew thousands to the spot and made it the theatre of 
 one of the greatest mining excitements of the generation. The gross 
 yield of the Goldfield Consolidated Mine last year was $10,850,000, 
 making it the largest individual contributor to the world's stock of gold. 
 
 Other towns of importance are Carson, the State capital, beautifully 
 located and a most picturesque little city (named after the famous Kit Car- 
 son and once the home of Mark Twain) ; Elko, Winnemucca, Rhyolite, 
 and Sparks. 
 
 Nevada has an area of 1 10,700 square miles, occupying the western 
 portion of the Great Basin. It is the smallest of the States in population, 
 and the third richest in mineral wealth. Its development has been retarded 
 by its arid climate. Its immense valleys and deserts contain millions of acres 
 of extremely fertile soil, but on which little grows naturally but sagebrush. The 
 rainfall is scanty, except on the high mountain ranges, which traverse it from 
 north to south. On the vast deserts scarcely any moisture falls between 
 April and October. Otherwise than for its dryness, the climate is temper- 
 ate, healthful, and invigorating. Along the rivers and streams productive 
 farms have been reclaimed by diverting the water by means of ditches and 
 canals to irrigate the land, on which bountiful crops are produced. Cattle 
 and sheep find subsistence ranging the hills and valleys. Stock raising, after 
 mining, is the next industry in importance. 
 
 The National Reclamation Service has undertaken an extensive reclama- 
 
 43 
 
tion enterprise in the State the Truckee-Carson project and has a num- 
 ber of others under consideration. The former is practically completed and 
 is bringing under cultivation a large tract of land near Fallen by conserving 
 the waters of the two rivers from which it gets its name and conducting the 
 combined streams by an elaborate system of canals, to the land. A num- 
 ber of important private irrigation enterprises have recently been undertaken 
 along the Humboldt River and near the town of Wells. It is likely that 
 within a few years every acre of land in the State capable of reclamation 
 by its rivers and streams will be made productive. The valleys and wastes 
 are so immense, however, that but a fraction of the total arable area can 
 possibly be reclaimed by the limited surface rivers and streams. "Dry- 
 farming" is being tested and with promising results in favorable localities. 
 In the great desert waste near Las Vegas, artesian wells are being bored 
 and abundant flows for irrigation purposes encountered at depths of from 
 200 to 500 feet. These wells are proving commercially profitable and are 
 leading to the agricultural development of this portion of the State. It is not 
 improbable that many of the other valleys contain bodies of water in their 
 subterranean basins which will offer the solution of the problem of converting 
 their desert wastes into fields and farms. The possibility is beginning to 
 attract attention and is strengthened by the fact that the former Mohave 
 desert in California is being converted into a garden by means of its under- 
 ground waters. 
 
 Nevada is without indebtedness except to itself; maintains an expensive 
 State government, and holds the bonds of other States in excess of $500,000. 
 It derived an income in 1 909, amounting to about $250,000, from the 
 taxation of the bullion of its mines. 
 
 The increase of Nevada's population, as shown by the last census, to 
 81,875, an advance of 93.4 per cent., shows the new life in the semi-arid 
 region of which Nevada is an extreme type. 
 
 The State presents an attractive field for the exploitation of its peculiar 
 resources, which have long lain fallow awaiting conquest. That this great 
 domain, larger than many kingdoms, will soon come into its own and add 
 another great agricultural and industrial State to the commonwealth, is the 
 firm conviction of those who know it best. 
 
 44 
 
NEW MEXICO 
 
 Motto of New Mexico: "Crescit eundo," "It Increases by Going." 
 
 The Territory of New Mexico was among the earlier portions of North 
 America visited by the Spaniards. These adventurous spirits explored por- 
 tions of it a hundred years before the Pilgrims landed on the shores of New 
 England. After several expeditions to that country by other explorers, 
 Don Antonio Espejo with a force went there (1595-1599) to protect 
 missions, and the Viceroy of Mexico sent his representative to take formal 
 possession of the country in the name of Spain and to establish other mis- 
 sions, settlements, and forts. The Pueblo, or village Indians, were readily 
 made converts by the missionaries. Many successful stations were established 
 and mines were opened and worked by enslavement of the Indians, which 
 caused discontent and insecurity. After having been driven out of the 
 country by the Indians, the Spaniards regained possession in 1 698. 
 
 The city and capital of New Mexico and the county seat of Santa Fe 
 County, is Santa Fe, believed to be the oldest city in the United States. It 
 still exhibits many relics of bygone generations. The streets are crooked 
 and narrow; many of the buildings are adobe, and among its interesting 
 features are the Church of San Miguel, erected about 1550 and rebuilt in 
 1710, after having been destroyed by the Indians ; the Governor's palace, 
 a long one-storied building, with walls five feet thick, erected in 1598; and 
 the Cathedral of San Francisco, built around a similarly named structure, 
 whose records go back as far as 1622. In 1541 Santa Fe was a thrifty 
 Indian pueblo, with a population of about 1 5,000. The Spaniards occu- 
 pied the place in 1605, made slaves of the inhabitants and began exploiting 
 the rich veins of gold and silver in the town and vicinity. This continued for 
 about three years, when the Indians rose in revolt, drove out the Spaniards, 
 and not only closed the mines, but effaced all indications of their existence. 
 The Spaniards, however, again acquired control of the town under Vargas, 
 and maintained it until 1 82 1 , when Mexico secured its independence of 
 Spain. General Stephen W. Kearney took possession of the town in the 
 name of the United States in 1 846 ; the territory was ceded to the United 
 States two years later, and the city became the capial of the organized Ter- 
 ritory of New Mexico in 1851. 
 
 Along the El Paso and Magdalena lines of the Santa Fe Railway and 
 the Pecos Valley branch are large deposits of salt. One of these deposits 
 in the crater of an extinct volcano has been used since the Spanish occupied 
 
 45 
 
the country in 1 540. It covers an area a mile and a quarter in diameter 
 and is 200 feet deep. The salt body of it lies in solid form. It is estimated 
 that the brine carries nearly a million tons of salt in solution, and the bed of 
 salt below is said to be inexhaustible. 
 
 The Government is building dams at the head of the principal valley. 
 The Rio Grande Valley is soon to be watered from a dam now under 
 construction, known as the Elephant Butte Reclamation project, by which 
 200,000 acres will be brought under cultivation. This dam will create 
 a lake covering 34,000 acres. 
 
 New Mexico is fourth in size, with 1 22,580 square miles. Of its seventy 
 million acres of land, only a million acres are under cultivation. The agri- 
 cultural awakening, however, will soon open up large areas of arid land 
 and transform it from cattle ranges into abundant fertility. 
 
 The moment a water supply for irrigation is developed for any tract of 
 land its value increases to from $50 to $100 an acre. Many young men 
 who took public land as homesteaders, have suddenly found themselves 
 well-to-do by the discovery that a water supply, either from flowing streams 
 or wells, was available for the purpose of irrigation. 
 
 The Southwest is noted for its so-called lost rivers. Many of these streams 
 come out of the mountains, where they are fed by snows of winter and by 
 springs, only to disappear into the glistening sand, perhaps not to reappear 
 upon the surface for several hundred miles. One of them the Lost Mimbres 
 River has long been of interest to geologists and scientists who have investi- 
 gated the water resources of this part of the Southwest. This river has its 
 source in the mountains and flows in a bold stream until it gets within twenty 
 miles of Deming, when it suddenly plunges into the sands. It follows a 
 channel beneath the surface until beyond the boundary line between the 
 United States and Mexico, when it reappears in the form of a large lake. 
 The course of this stream underground lies in a broad valley, and at any 
 spot in this depression an almost inexhaustible supply of water is obtainable 
 by means of wells. So great is the supply that it has been suggested that 
 by digging a canal from 20 to 60 feet deep and from 75 to 1 00 feet wide 
 along the course followed by the underground river Deming could be 
 reached by water navigation. 
 
 Human energy and ingenuity are rapidly effecting a transformation of 
 the territory between Cook's Peak and the Florida Mountains. The desert 
 is being reclaimed on a scale that has already added much wealth to this 
 part of New Mexico. Individual farmers are doing the work. They are 
 tapping the underground river in many spots, always obtaining a water 
 supply to irrigate their lands and produce abundant yield of crops. 
 
 In the Deming section the successful utilization of electricity in the opera- 
 
 46 
 
tion of small pumping plants may be seen in a high state of development. 
 A central power plant was installed here and electric transmission lines run 
 out in all directions for the benefit of the farmers. 
 
 New Mexico showed an increase of 67.5 per cent, in population from 
 1900 to 1910. 
 
 47 
 
OREGON 
 
 Motto of Oregon: "Alis volat propriis," "She Flies with Her Own Wings." 
 
 The history of this State properly began with the discovery of the mouth 
 of the Columbia River by Captain Gray, of Boston, in the ship "Columbia," 
 who, on April 29, 1 792, entered the great stream formerly known as "The 
 River of the North" and the "Oregon," and gave the name of his vessel 
 to that river. Although Bryant, in "Thanatopsis," sacrificed patriotism to 
 euphony, in his "Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound save its own 
 dashing," that picturesque river still bears the name of "Columbia." Cap- 
 tain Gray's report caused President Jefferson to send out the Lewis and 
 Clark expedition, which first broke into the heart of the continent and directed 
 the attention of the nation to that great unexplored region. The two leaders 
 were Merriwether Lewis of Virginia, a captain in the army, 29 years old, 
 who had been Jefferson's private secretary for two years, and William Clark, 
 also a native of Virginia, 33 years of age, who were accompanied by 26 
 men. In October, 1805, they camped at the confluence of the Kooskooskie 
 (now known as Clearwater) and the Lewis (now called the Snake) Rivers, 
 near the present site of Lewiston, Idaho, which was first settled in May, 
 1861, incorpporated in 1863, and named for Captain Lewis. In March, 
 1807, Captain Lewis was appointed Governor of Louisiana Territory. 
 
 In 1811 John Jacob Astor established a fur trading post at the mouth 
 of the Columbia River and called it Astoria. The doctrine always prac- 
 ticed and enforced by England, that the entrance of a vessel of a civilized 
 nation for the first time into the mouth of a river gives title of right of dis- 
 covery to the territory drained by that river and its tributaries, clearly gave 
 to the Americans the domain to the latitude 54 40' N., for Captain Gray's 
 discovery of the Columbia River was not disputed. In 1 8 1 8 it was mutually 
 agreed that each nation should equally enjoy the privileges of all the bays and 
 harbors on the coast for ten years. This agreement was renewed in 1827 for 
 an indefinite time, with the stipulation that either territory might rescind it 
 by giving the other party twelve months' notice. This notice was given by the 
 United States in 1 846, and also a proposition to make the boundary on 
 the parallel of 49. This was rejected by Great Britain, that country claim- 
 ing the whole of Oregon. The President then directed the proposition of 
 compromise to be withdrawn and the title of the United States to the whole 
 territory of 54 40' North latitude to be asserted. The question at one 
 time threatened war between the two nations, but it was finally settled by a 
 
treaty negotiated at Washington, June 15, 1846, by President Buchanan 
 on the part of the United States and Mr. Pakenham for Great Britain, by 
 which the boundary line was fixed at 49 North latitude. In 1833 immi- 
 gration to this region overland began, and in 1850 many thousands had 
 reached Oregon, but soon many of the settlers were drawn to California 
 by the gold rush there. 
 
 In 1 84 1 the first attempt to organize the government was made. In 
 1 843 an executive committee framed an organic law which the settlers 
 drafted, and this formed the basis of a provisional government until 1 848, 
 when Congress created the Territory of Oregon, which comprised all the 
 United States west of the summit of the Rocky Mountains and north of 
 42 parallel, 
 
 To encourage immigration, in 1850 Congress passed the "donation 
 law," giving to every man who settled there before December first of that 
 year 320 acres of land, and to his wife a like number; also to every man 
 and his wife who settled on such land between December 1, 1850, and 
 December 1. 1853, 160 acres of land each. Under this law 8,000 
 claims were registered in Oregon. 
 
 Settlers in Oregon and in Washington territory in 1855 suffered much 
 from Indians, who went in bands to murder and plunder the white people. 
 The savages were so well organized at one time that it was thought the 
 white settlers would be compelled to abandon the country. Major General 
 Wool, stationed at San Francisco, went to Portland, Oregon, and there 
 organized the campaign against the Indians. The latter had formed a 
 powerful combination, but Wool brought hostilities to a close during the 
 summer of 1 856. The bad conduct of Indian agents and possibly encour- 
 agement given the Indians by employes of the Hudson Bay Company were 
 the original causes of the trouble. 
 
 Within the memory of thousands of residents of the Northwest, Central 
 Oregon, 150 by 300 miles in extent, as large as the State of New York, 
 was solely the home and hunting grounds of Indian tribes. Only 37 years 
 ago an Indian war was fought in the southern part of that territory now to 
 soon be heavily populated. 
 
 By act of February 1 4, 1 859, Oregon was admitted into the Union as 
 a State, with its present limits. 
 
 Central Oregon has been comparatively unknown, for no railways have 
 heretofore penetrated it. It has great areas of pine forests, farm lands, un- 
 touched precious metals and water powers equal to hundreds, of Niagaras 
 combined. Oil and coal, too, are there for the taking. The history of the 
 Willamette Valley is sure to be repeated here, with the certain result of soon 
 doubling the population and business of the State. Central Oregon has 
 
 49 
 
single counties larger than a combination of some Eastern States. The 
 timber belt along the Deschutes River covers 10,000 square miles, nearly 
 one-half owned by the Weyerhauser interests, and the balance by the 
 Government. 
 
 The Willamette Valley is not yet out of the grain business. The Sain 
 ranch in Washington County yielded last year 1 1 7 bushels of oats per acre 
 from a field of 37 acres. Grain growing in the valley has not been les- 
 sened by reason of any deterioration of soil or climate, but only because the 
 land is becoming too valuable to be confined to grain. 
 
 The lumber shipments last year were nearly 47 million feet in excess of 
 those of 1909. The value of the product was $6,133,204. 
 
 It is interesting to note that when Lewis and Clark outfitted at St. Louis 
 for their exploration they set a pace for enterprise in the use of matches 
 which was significant of their progressive ideas. At that time when all the 
 rest of the world depended on flint and steel Dr. Saugrain supplied the first 
 matches, which were sulphur splints of wood, which were ignited by dipping 
 them into phosphorus, which the ingenious doctor supplied in small tin boxes. 
 Lewis and Clark struck these matches on the Columbia River a generation 
 before Boston or London made use of the secret. It is recorded that Clark 
 was frequently able to get supplies from the Indians on the return of the 
 expedition when passing the Multnomah, near where Portland now is, by 
 striking a match when the occasion served, which the Indians considered 
 as an evidence of his supernatural powers. The story has it that Clark 
 entered an Indian tepee to buy wapato. "Not, not!" With sullen looks, 
 the Indians shook their heads. No gift of his could buy the precious wapato. 
 Deliberately then, the captain took out one of Dr. Saugrain's sulphur matches 
 and dipped it in the phosphorus. Instantly it spat and flamed. "Me-sah- 
 chie! Me-sah-chie !" the Indians shrieked, and piled the cherished wapato at 
 his feet. The screaming children fled behind the beds and hid behind the 
 men. An old man began to speak with great vehemence, imploring his god 
 for protection. The matched burned out, and quiet was restored. Clark 
 paid for the wapato, smoked, and went on. 
 
 The Dalles derived its name from the great trough, or narrows in the 
 Columbia River, about five miles above, which the early French-Canadian 
 voyageurs in the employ of the Hudson Bay Company called "Le Grande 
 Dall de la Columbia." 
 
 The Methodist missionaries, Reverends Lee and Perkins, established here 
 in 1838 a mission to the Indians, which continued until 1847, called 
 "Dalls" or "Wascopum." "Perkins House," as the Indians called the 
 mission, was the home of the first white women and children between the 
 Willamette and Walla Walla valleys. The Catholic mission was estab- 
 
 50 
 
lished in 1 848. In 1 850 a military post, called Fort Dalles, was established 
 by the Rifle Regiment as a supply station and a guard to the old emigrant 
 road. After the building of the post the town came into existence known 
 as "The Landing," and became an organization in 1855 as Dalles City. 
 The gold discoveries in eastern Washington in 1855, in Idaho in 1857 and 
 in Oregon on the Powder River in 1861, attracted thousands, all of whom 
 had to pass through The Dalles, which was at the head of navigation on the 
 Columbia River and the gateway to the "Inland Empire," then as now. The 
 "bunch" grass plains became a great pasture, and cattle, horses, and sheep 
 roamed over a thousand hills. The Dalles was a cattle market and for years 
 was the heaviest shipping point for raw wool in the world. About 1875 
 the pastoral age gave way to the grain fields, which supplanted the bunch 
 grass, and now is the day of the diversified small farms and of fruit culture. 
 
 The salmon, fruit, and lumber interests alone of Oregon are enough to 
 support a large population. There is now in this State merchantable tim- 
 ber valued at $500,000,000 as it stands, which at the present rate of 
 cutting will last one hundred and twenty years. The State Board of For- 
 estry estimates the value of this made into lumber as a sum in excess of the 
 total amount of money in circulation in the United States at present. Ore- 
 gon has 1 80 fire wardens, and has made great progress in recent years 
 in fighting fires and eliminating wasteful methods of lumbering. 
 
 Oregon produces more than one-third of the hops grown in the United 
 States. 
 
 The Chinook salmon of the Columbia River are conceded to be equal 
 to the finest in the world. 
 
 The State's agricultural products last year aggregated about $115,- 
 000,000. 
 
 In Eagle Valley, Baker County, plans have been provided by the 
 Eastern Oregon Irrigation Company for the reclamation of 30,000 
 acres under the Carey Act. This project is of special interest because 
 it is based on the experience in Idaho, in which State the Carey Act has 
 found its widest application and development, and has there been made 
 to apply to upwards of 2,000,000 acres, and more than 15,000 miles of 
 canals or irrigating ditches have been built. 
 
 Under this act the title to the land is released by the United States 
 Government to the State of Oregon and is then sold by the State to settlers 
 at the uniform price of $ 1 an acre, each purchaser being obliged at the time 
 he buys the land to contract with the irrigation company for the purchase 
 of a water right for his land. The soil in Eagle Valley is a decomposed 
 lava ash, semi-basaltic in character, with a little clay, making it ideal fruit 
 soil. The finest crops are raised on the side-hill lands, the slope being fairly 
 
 Si 
 
steep in many of the best orchards. The highest grade of canteloupes and 
 watermelons grow at the mouth of this valley, along the Snake River near 
 Robinett and Brownlee. 
 
 The plan of using uncleared land for setting out walnut groves and let- 
 ting goats clear the land while the trees mature is also being tried. Near 
 Albany a four hundred acre walnut orchard has recently been started. 
 
 In the latter part of 1 843 A. M. Overton and A. L. Lovejoy, residents 
 of Oregon City, on their way home from Vancouver, Washn., pitched their 
 tent under the pine trees on the west bank of the Willamette River. The 
 next day they projected a town on the site of their camp. Within a few 
 months a clearing was made and a log cabin built. From this grew the 
 city of Portland. In 1 848 Oregon City was the metropolis and Portland 
 (up to 1849 known as "Stumptown") was only "a place twelve miles 
 from Oregon City." 
 
 Lovejoy and Pettygrove put up the first business building, known as the 
 "shingle store," on what is now the corner of Front and Washington streets. 
 Lovejoy was from Boston and Pettygrove from Maine. They tossed a 
 coin for choice of name, "Boston" or "Portland," and Pettygrove won. 
 A little later the townsite passed into the hands of Dan'l Lounsbury, Stephen 
 Coffin, W. W. Chapman, and Benjamin Stark. 
 
 From that humble start has grown a city, with a present population of 
 about a quarter of a million, which is growing at a rate exceeded by but 
 four others in the United States New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, and 
 Los Angeles. Portland advanced from the twelfth place in 1 909 in volume 
 of building operations to the fifth position, climbing over the heads of both 
 San Francisco and Seattle, its aggregate being $20,604,957. New York 
 of course leads, with the astonishing total of $188,789,345, while Los 
 Angeles is fourth, with $2 1 ,684, 1 00. Portland's percentage of gain was 
 53 over 1909. 
 
 It now has 68 1 manufactories and an annual payroll of about $ 1 0,000,- 
 000. Of these the flouring mills produced nearly $4,000,000. 
 
 Portland now appears to be entering a new career by the near completion 
 of projects which should place the city in rank with the historic commercial 
 ports of the world. These are the Thirty-foot Channel from Portland to 
 the mouth of the Columbia River ; the Forty-foot Channel at the mouth of the 
 Columbia and the Celilo Canal, all of which will doubtless be completed 
 in 1913, and will have an important bearing on the city's growth. Portland 
 has river steamship transportation of 700 miles; potential river transportation 
 of 2,1 36 miles, and water-grade railway connections established with Eastern 
 Oregon. 
 
 On the one side the city has the Pacific Ocean and the Columbia River, 
 
 52 
 
and on the other railroads passing through the mountains on a water grade 
 to all parts of the interior. 
 
 The city is the center of the meat packing interests, its transactions at the 
 stock yards in 1910 aggregating $8,500,000. 
 
 The lumber trade has expanded enormously, and is now its largest single 
 industry. 
 
 During 1910 Portland shipped more wheat than any other port in the 
 United States. 
 
 In beauty of location and scenic surroundings the city can scarcely be 
 equaled. 
 
 Portland, per capita, has long been among the wealthiest cities of the 
 United States. 
 
 The States of Oregon and Washington contain one-third of the available 
 water power energy in the United States and between six and seven million 
 horse-power can be generated in the two States, according to the United 
 States Geological Survey. 
 
 President Elliott, of the Northern Pacific Railroad, predicts an annual 
 production in the Pacific Northwest within a short time of 100,000 cars 
 of apples. 
 
 Oregon's population increased 62.7 per cent, from 1900 to 1910. 
 
 53 
 
UTAH 
 
 The first white men to visit the Utah region, so far as known, were a 
 small party of Spaniards, soldiers in the army of Coronado, the explorer of 
 New Mexico. He was at Cibola (now Zuni) in 1850, and hearing of 
 a great river to the northwest, sent Captain Cardenas with twelve men to 
 explore it. That river was the Colorado. Cardenas came to the south 
 bank just within the present southern boundary of Utah. The next visitors 
 were two Franciscan friars, Father Escalante and Father Dominguez, who 
 started from Santa Fe with seven men in July, 1 776, to find a direct route 
 to Monterey on the California sea coast. They crossed the Wasatch 
 Mountains and followed the Provo River to Utah Lake, where they were 
 received by the native "Yutas," and were told of a valley to the northward, 
 in which was a large salt lake. They visited the valley in the southwest 
 which now bears the name of Escalante, and then returned to Santa Fe. 
 An expedition headed by John C. Fremont and Kit Carson reached the 
 Great Salt Lake in 1843. There were many other ezirly visitors to this 
 region, but it remained for a small party of Mormons, led by Brigham Young, 
 in 1847, to accomplish the enduring work of settlement and development. 
 They pitched tents and corraled their wagons in the northeastern part of the 
 Salt Lake Valley, their first camp being about where the Salt Lake City 
 and County Building now stands. The first ploughing done was within an 
 area now between the Deseret National Bank and the Hotel Knutsford. 
 To make the ploughing easier in the sun-baked soil, dams were placed in the 
 City Creek, and the ground flooded. This was the beginning of irrigation 
 at least by white men in arid America. In September, 1848, 2,500 more 
 immigrants arrived. Great Salt Lake City (which was the original name 
 of the town) was laid out in August, 1 847, the plan being a perfect square, 
 each block containing ten acres, with streets eight rods wide. On the out- 
 skirts fields of five, ten and twenty acres were laid out, and the planting of 
 trees encouraged. Each head of a family was given a city lot of an acre 
 and a quarter in addition to one of the fields, with enough water to irrigate 
 his land. The Organic Act creating the Territory of Utah was signed by 
 President Millard Fillmore on September 9, 1850. The news, however, 
 did not reach Salt Lake City until late in January, 1 85 1 . The first Dele- 
 gate to Congress chosen was Doctor John B. Bernhisel. In February, 1853, 
 ground was broken for the Salt Lake Temple, which was destined to cost 
 over $2,000,000, and to require forty years for its completion. Until the 
 
 54 
 
coming of the railroad every stone that went into its construction was hauled 
 a long distance by wagons. 
 
 The Tabernacle is of unique construction, with oval top, 250 feet long 
 and 150 feet wide, and a seating capacity of 8,000. Its acoustics are 
 surprising, as a pin dropped at one end of its gallery can be heard distinctly 
 at the other end. It contains one of the largest pipe organs in America, 
 made entirely of native timber, and built by native artisans. 
 
 Brigham Young, the first Governor of Utah, had foresight, and not only 
 laid the foundation of an inland empire in what was originally a desert, but 
 also as far back as 1847 marked out a route in the Valley of the Platte 
 which he predicted would one day be followed by a railroad. Much of 
 the track of the Union Pacific Railway now lies along that route. 
 
 The organization of the Mormon Community was a feat which historians 
 recognize as extraordinary, and one which differs from the Dowie class 
 because Mormonism has endured, and is to-day a growing power to be 
 reckoned with. The Mormon organization has so far proved a vital and 
 persistent piece of statesmanship. 
 
 Utah produced, in 1909, from its mines, farms and manufactories, mar- 
 ketable materials valued at over $132,000,000. The reports from the 
 National Agricultural Department give its farms a productiveness as great 
 in some crops as any other State in the Union. Eighty-four bushels of 
 wheat were raised to the acre on a farm near Salt Lake City, and on an- 
 other farm an average of 96 bushels of oats to an acre were raised on a 
 20-acre tract. The productiveness of the farms makes the cultivation of 
 small acreage most profitable. Woman suffrage was granted in Utah 
 in 1896. 
 
 Utah's population, as shown by the last census, is 373,351, an increase 
 of 34.9 per cent, over 1900. The population of Ogden is given as 25,580, 
 an increase of 56.8 per cent, in ten years. 
 
 55 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 In addition to their other numerous explorations, Lewis and Clark en- 
 tered the territory of Washington October 7, 1805, at what is now Lew- 
 iston, Idaho, and twenty-five years later the first school in the Northwest 
 was opened at Fort Vancouver. 
 
 In the four irrigated counties of central Washington: Yakima, Benton, 
 Kittitas, and Franklin, fully $7,000,000 were spent in 1910 on improve- 
 ments. Never before has there been such a record for a year in these 
 counties, and in them, in every city or town, rapid advancement has been 
 made. 
 
 The Yakima River- and Valley together constitute one of the greatest 
 irrigation projects in the country. The Government is now engaged in 
 conserving the waters of four large lakes in the Cascade range that form the 
 sources of this stream, to increase the supply for irrigation. It is thus re- 
 claiming a half million acres of land and the total cost of dams, canals, and 
 appurtenances will aggregate over $15,000,000. 
 
 Strange tales are told in connection with the enterprising real estate agents 
 of some of the new towns of Washington. One exaggerated story is told 
 of a farmer who decided to trade his farm for a bunch of town lots. 
 He went into town, saw a real estate agent, and arranged a trade. The 
 agent hitched up and drove the farmer out to see the lots. When they 
 arrived at the destination the farmer looked over the lots and made no 
 comment. 
 
 "Now, then," said the agent, assuming the trade to be made, "let's 
 drive to your farm. Where is it?" 
 
 "Oh," replied the farmer, "we passed that about a mile back, coming 
 out here." 
 
 In 1 889 the greater part of the business section of Seattle burned with a 
 loss of about twelve millions. 
 
 Twenty years ago Seattle was an unpretentious town, and was but 
 a small seaport when the Alaskan gold strikes were made. It looks now as 
 if its population of 237,194 (as per the last census) will be doubled 
 in less than ten years. That is a mild rendering of the general belief of 
 Seattle people. Seattle, like Rome, is built on seven hills and a few more, 
 but its people were not satisfied with their uplift, and the city engineer, 
 R. H. Thompson, of national reputation, devised a plan to level the 
 hills. They are being washed by hydraulic water system into the bay, 
 the project being known as the regrade system, and paid for by the 
 
 56 
 
property owners on the principle that their property is being enhanced 
 in value. At first many owners refused to enter into the scheme, but 
 as the hills were washed from beneath their neighbors, leaving the homes 
 of the obdurate ones standing high in the air, all gradually accepted the 
 unusual conditions that were forced on them. 
 
 The bank deposits in Seattle increased $4,000,000 last year, and 
 the Alaskan trade contributed its full share toward maintaining the pros- 
 perity of the city. 
 
 The salmon and halibut industries, both important to Seattle, have 
 had the most prosperous year on record. The wheat crop of the State 
 was about 65 per cent, of normal, while the apple crop was the largest 
 ever harvested, consisting of nearly four million boxes, valued at about 
 $14,000,000. As a whole, the farmers are the most prosperous and 
 wealthy class in the State. 
 
 In volume of building operations, last year Seattle stood eighth in the 
 United States, with values of $14,449,110. 
 
 Nearly 1 3,000 carloads of fruit last season in Washington was the 
 estimate of agents of the Great Northern, Northern Pacific, and Milwau- 
 kee railroads, made in order to apportion cars during the summer. The 
 crop of apples required 6,000 cars, and 3,000 for peaches and pears. 
 
 Spokane, to which 1 50,000 square miles in eastern Washington, 
 northern Idaho, western Montana and northeastern Oregon are largely 
 tributary, is a city of strategic position, and is probably destined to 
 become one of the chief distributing points of the Northwest. It is likely 
 to reach the half million mark in population in less than two decades, 
 for it is not dependent upon any one industry, as the raw materials in 
 quantity, quality and variety are within 1 50 miles of its doors. 
 
 The city has an interesting if brief history. The first settlement was 
 made in the summer of 1 872, when a few pioneers gathered at the site 
 of Spokane Falls, after which the village was named. Earlier it was 
 the home of the trapper and hunter, who sold their pelts to the Hudson's 
 Bay Company and the Astors, which in turn maintained the Spokane 
 House, before the Oregon country became part of the United States. 
 Four years later the first saw and grist mill was erected, the waters of 
 Spokane Falls furnishing the power to turn the old-fashioned wheel. 
 
 The first banking institution was organized in 1879, in which year the 
 first newspaper was established. Two years afterward the Northern 
 Pacific Railway Company entered from the west, and the 500 residents 
 decided to incorporate as a town. Robert W. Forrest, a native of 
 Pennsylvania, was the first mayor. The second flour mill and another 
 newspaper were established in 1881, and the town began to take on 
 
 57 
 
metropolitan airs, when in 1 882 it was made the permanent county seat. 
 The Great Northern and Union Pacific systems came in 1882-3. After- 
 ward the county seat was moved from Cheney to Spokane. 
 
 The first disastrous blaze occurred in 1 883, and was followed in the 
 summer of 1889, by a fire which wiped out 30 blocks in the business 
 district, occasioning losses aggregating more than $5,000,000. It was 
 the first real test, but the work of rebuilding was promptly begun, the 
 fire limits were extended, and the city council enforced an ordinance 
 prohibiting the erection of wooden structures within the boundary es- 
 tablished. 
 
 Much has been written of the derivation of the word Spokane, pro- 
 nounced "Spo-kan," but little is definitely known. It is believed the 
 word is from the language of the Indians, who formerly hunted and 
 fished on what is now the site of the city. Even the early interpreters 
 of the language are at variance in their understanding of the meaning of 
 the word Spokane. An early writer says that the chief of the tribe 
 is known as "Illim-Spokane," which means "Son of the Sun." From 
 this and from the nature of the country, being more open and having 
 more sunshine than that of the Colvilles, inhabiting the valleys of the north, 
 or of the Coeur d' Alenes, whose hunting grounds were in the mountains 
 and foothills to the east, the tribal name is interpreted to mean "Children 
 of the Sun." 
 
 Spokane is pronounced "Spokan" by the Indians, and means "wheat." 
 A literal interpretation of Spokane is, "the man who lives in the country 
 which grows the wheat," to distinguish the Spokanes from the Col- 
 villes, Coeur d' Alenes, Nez Perces, and other tribes who inhabited the 
 districts in which wild game abounded. They also have a word, pro- 
 nounced, "Spo-kan-ee," which means "the sun." From the words, 
 "Spokan" and "Spo-kan-ee," the early settlers evolved the name Spokane, 
 which was given to the Indians as a tribal name. The original tribal 
 name of the Spokane Indians is "Sin-co-mahn-nah," the meaning of 
 which has long been lost. 
 
 Tributary to Spokane is a great timber belt, which includes the largest 
 stand of white pine left intact on this continent. Within the same limits 
 are the richest silver-lead mines in the world, comprising the famous 
 Coeur d' Alenes, which produce 40 per cent, of the lead output in the 
 United States, besides stretches of agricultural and orchard lands. 
 
 Over 1 00 miles of street railways are in operation in the city, and 
 250 miles of electric lines extend into the suburbs, and as far east as 
 Coeur d' Alene and Hayden Lake, Idaho, south to Palouse and Colfax, 
 Wash., and Moscow, Idaho, and west to Cheney and Medical Lake, 
 
 s8 
 
Wash. Six transcontinental lines pass through Spokane, including the 
 Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound, which is completing its con- 
 struction work in Washington. 
 
 More than 1 50,000 horsepower electrical energy is developed in and 
 near Spokane, and there is at least 500,000 horsepower available and 
 undeveloped. 
 
 The census gives the city's population as 104,402, showing an in- 
 crease of 183.3 per cent, in ten years. 
 
 Dr. Marcus Whitman and his wife, Narcissa Whitman, arrived in 
 the Walla Walla Valley, near the present city of Walla Walla, August 
 31, 1836, from the State of New York, having come as far as Fort 
 Boise in a wagon, the first wagon to make the trip over the Continental 
 Divide. 
 
 Dr. Whitman was a physician, his professional skill serving greatly in 
 the enterprise in which he was engaged that of establishing a mission 
 station among the Cayuse Indians. It is worthy of note that his was 
 the first mission and the first American home in all that vast region be- 
 tween the Missouri River and the Cascade Mountains. 
 
 In the winter of 1842-43 Whitman made his historic ride across 
 the Rocky Mountains, and while in the East visited the National Capital, 
 enlisted the cooperation of the President, and, returning in the summer 
 of 1 843, led the first large immigration of Americans. This settled the 
 struggle between England and the United States for control of the 
 "Oregon Country," comprising the present States of Oregon, Washing- 
 ton and Idaho, with portions of Wyoming and Montana, and in 1846, 
 the British claims were ceded, to become one of the richest corners of our 
 domain. 
 
 But Whitman's work, though great, was brief. On November 29, 
 1847, he, with his wife and twelve men, who were connected in various 
 ways with the mission, were murdered by the Indians. 
 
 The Palouse Country (from the French "Peloose," meaning grassy 
 sward) is a garden spot of 2,500 square miles, where Nature has pro- 
 vided ideal climate and soil. It includes the southern portion of Spokane 
 County, with its luxuriant orchards, Whitman County comprising nearly 
 1,200,000 acres; Latah County, with an area of 900 square miles, 
 and the western portion of what was formerly the Coeur d' Alene Indian 
 Reservation. The soil is basaltic ash, which is easily worked, and 
 practically inexhaustible. This rich section produces over 25,000,000 
 bushels of grain annually, and many millions more in orchard and live stock 
 products. 
 
 The city of Walla Walla is the center of an area of great fertility. 
 
 59 
 
Walla Walla means, in the Indian tongue, the place of "Many Waters," 
 and such, in fact, the valley is. For half a century it has been famed 
 as an orchard district, the soil being peculiarly adapted to the growing 
 of apples and other fruits. 
 
 A peculiarly unexpected condition is its winter climate, which, al- 
 though in the latitude of northern Maine and Montreal, is much like 
 that of Virginia. 
 
 Walla Walla is derived from the "Wallawollahs," as a tribe of 
 Indians were formerly known. In several of the native dialects "Walla" 
 means "running water," and when the word is repeated it diminishes 
 the size of the object, so that Walla Walla means "Little running 
 water." 
 
 In Washington last year, by a heavy majority, women were given 
 the right of suffrage. 
 
 It was at first believed that Oklahoma's growth of 866,764, with 
 a percentage of increase of 109.7, as shown by the last census, was 
 unapproachable, until Washington's gain of 1 20.4 was announced. 
 This easily leads all the rest of the States. 
 
 It has been well said that in the character and intelligence of the 
 people lie the strength and perpetuity of the State, and those qualities 
 have helped to bring Washington to its present commanding position. 
 
 60 
 
WYOMING 
 
 Wyoming is 350 miles long and 210 miles wide, and covers an 
 area as great as that of the combined New England States, New Jersey, 
 Delaware and Maryland. But 10 per cent, of it is irrigated, although 
 it is well netted with rivers. It has been termed the "peak of the 
 continent," for from its mountain ranges three rivers drain in three 
 directions; the Missouri flows to the east, the Columbia directly west to 
 the Pacific, and the Big Horn southwest to the Gulf of California. 
 
 Within its borders is contained a large part of the Yellowstone Na- 
 tional Park. 
 
 The climate of the State is much more even than that of a similar 
 latitude in the East. The summers are dry, without intense heat. The 
 winter air is exhilarating, and serves as a tonic for health and happiness 
 in a way that is not known under duller skies. Its Hot Springs are said 
 to at least equal in virtue those of Hot Springs, Arkansas, and have 
 been termed the Carlsbad Springs of America. 
 
 Cheyenne, "The Magic City," the metropolis and capital of Wyoming 
 and the capital of Larimer County, is the financial and commercial center 
 of the State, and is located at the base of the Rocky Mountains. It is 
 one of the oldest cities in the west, and the largest in the State. 
 
 Sheridan is one of the growing cities and expended in 1910 over 
 $500,000 for improvements. 
 
 The Shoshone dam in Wyoming the highest water barrier of ma- 
 sonry in the world is a wedge of concrete stuck in a gorge. The gorge 
 is 2,000 feet deep, and eight miles long. The dam is 328 1 /2 feet 
 high and 200 feet wide at the top. According to the geologists it took 
 millions of years to cut the gorge through 2,000 feet of solid rock. The 
 dam backs up the Shoshone River into the mountains, forming a lake 
 equivalent in area to ten square miles, fed by a watershed that contains 
 1,380 square miles. The average depth of this great reservoir is 70 feet, 
 and is estimated to hold sufficient water to reclaim 1 32,000 acres of dry 
 land, increasing its value from $3 an acre to a price ranging from $50 
 to $150. The annual rainfall in Wyoming is from 8 to 1 5 inches. 
 
 The "Equality State," as Wyoming is called, was first to adopt 
 woman's suffrage in 1869. It increased 57.7 per cent, in population from 
 1900 to 1910.