F 591 H78 BANCROFT LIBRARY o- THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GOLDEN WESTj AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE STATES AND TERRITORIES OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE " The men who got gold in '49 were the men who heard it was to be had and who went West and got it." ISSUED B Y TH E L North British & Mercantile Insurance Company . 76 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK MAY, 1911 INTRODUCTION Hn HE year 1809 was distinguished by the birth of Lincoln, Darwin, Gladstone, Tennyson and Mendelssohn, and also by the organization in Edinburgh, of the North British Insurance Company. Its first President was George, then Marquis of Huntly, and afterward the fifth and last Duke of Gordon. The Edinburgh Evening Courant of April 1 7th, 1 809, con- tained the first announcement of the enterprise and explained that "a number of respectable gentlemen and merchants in different parts of the country have resolved to establish in Edinburgh a company on a liberal and national basis under the name of the NORTH BRITISH INSURANCE COMPANY, which may include not only most of the opulent and enterprising merchants and capitalists throughout Scotland, but also a considerable part of the landed interest who are so much interested in retaining their floating capital within the country for its own improvement." The first heading for the company's policies was made by the famous wood engraver, Thomas Bewick. The premiums for 1809 were 2,149, and in one loss in Glasgow the Company paid 6,464, "it appearing that the fire was occasioned by a squib or rocket entering a window on the roof of the building and communicating inflammation to cotton goods of various de- scriptions which were therein deposited." The company has since paid for fire losses exceeding $170,000,000. In 1832 a Branch Office was opened in London, and in 1861 the business was extended to India, the colonies and foreign countries, and an agency was established in Canada, which developed into the Montreal Branch. In 1 862 a merger was effected with the Mercantile Fire Insurance Company of London, and the company became the NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE INSURANCE COMPANY with head offices in Edinburgh and London. In 1866 the Company commenced business in the new world by opening its UNITED STATES BRANCH office at No. 74 Wall Street, New York City, and appointed as its first manager Mr. Ezra White. Mr. White was succeeded in 1876 by Charles E. White and Samuel P. Blagden, associate managers; Mr. White retiring in 1887. In 1894 Mr. Blagden was succeeded by Henry E. Bowers and upon his resignation, January 1, 1900, Ellis G. Richards was appointed United States manager in his place, which position he now holds. THE UNITED STATES BRANCH OFFICE is located at 76 William Street, New York City, where the business of the Company for the United States, including the Territory of Hawaii, is handled in seven Departments, viz: the Metropolitan (New York); Mid- dle; New England and Southern; Central; Western; Pacific, and Im- proved Risks. The Pacific Department (formerly located in San Francisco) is in charge of W. S. Berdan, General Agent. The original promoters of the Company (which does both life and fire insurance business) builded better than they knew. At the close of its first year its total funds were about 20,000. They now amount to more than $ 1 00,000,000. The company's business is worldwide, with agencies in the United Kingdom, Germany, Austria, and elsewhere on the Continent of Europe; the United States, South America, Canada, China, India, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and, in fact, throughout the globe. On the threshold of the second century of its existence the Company looks forward with confidence, feeling that its record merits a continued and increasing success. In presenting the second installment of "The Golden West" a few words of explanation are due our readers. No originality is claimed for this publication further than the idea. We have freely borrowed from many sources with the intention of giving in a condensed form some facts connected with the early settlement and development of the country comprised in our Pacific Department, which we hope may prove of interest and value. This booklet, however, is not designed solely from a historic stand- point, nor does it aim to merely point a prophetic finger to the richest "land of opportunity" in the world. It has the further end in view of reminding property owners of the merits of the NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE INSURANCE COMPANY, which has been in existence over one hundred years, and has a most hon- orable and convincing record throughout the world and especially in the country we are writing about. THE EDITOR. Look now abroad another race has filled These populous borders wide the wood recedes, And towns shoot up, and fertile realms are tilled; The land is full of harvests and green meads ; Streams numberless, that many a fountain feeds, Shine, disembowered, and give to sun and breeze Their virgin waters; the full region leads New colonies forth, that toward the western seas Spread, like a rapid flame, among the autumnal trees. * * * 9 Here the free spirit of mankind, at length, Throws its last fetters off; and who shall place A limit to the giant's unchained strength, Or curb his swiftness in the forward race? # # * * Bryant. THE GOLDEN WEST In 1 843 Daniel Webster opposed a bill for the establishment of a mail route through what was then styled the "Great American Desert," and in a speech delivered in the United States Senate referred to the country beyond the Missouri River as "a vast and worthless area, a region of sav- ages and wild beasts," and alluded to the Pacific Coast region as "a coast of three thousand miles, rockbound, cheerless, uninviting." The "Web- slerian Desert" has since disappeared, and populous cities flourish where waste places met Fremont and others in their early journeys. Forests have sprung up where barren stretches met the view, and along the Pacific Coast the beauties and productiveness of Spain and Italy have been more than reproduced. Irrigation with governmental aid is opening up great tracts for prospective settlers. The man who first led a stream of water upon the arid lands in the fruit country opened up wealth greater than the pioneer gold seekers, which is enriching a far more numerous and diverse population. Irrigation work in the Western States is being done on a gigan- tic scale, as indicated by the government projects alone, which will involve an outlay of over $70,000,000. The conditions there are ideal, the choice broad, the opportunities numerous. As soon as the irrigation plans are completed there will be room in this zone of development for a vast population. That this conclusion is warranted will, we believe, be evident after a perusal of the summary of the growth and prospects of our western country, given in the following pages. ALASKA When the United States in 1867, through the foresight of Secretary of State William H. Seward, purchased Alaska for $7,200,000, we secured not only a very large section of territory but a country which is an empire in itself (only lacking in people) and is proving immensely rich in varied resources. In gold alone over $ 1 60,000,000 have been extracted since 1880, and recent investigations in the Innoke district, the central Kuskokwim Valley, and the new Haiditarod District, now partially finished by the United States Geological Survey, disclose new placer gold districts which promise heavy returns. The agents of the Survey have discovered placers on the small streams in areas which are drained into the lower Yukon and the lower Kuskokwim, proving that the formations of the upper Yukon belts extend much farther southwest than had generally been supposed. The value of copper, coal and other minerals aside from gold is almost beyond estimation. Alaska covers 590,884 square miles, and is now known to be the richest territory as yet undeveloped on this continent. Within its borders could be placed the following twenty States of the Union: Con- necticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Maine, Maryland, Mas- sachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia and Wisconsin. Its area is about equal to that of France, Germany, Italy, Portugal and Switzerland. It is one-fifth the size of the entire United States; is fourteen times as large as New York State; has one-fifth of our coal, the only tin mines in this country, and 18,000 miles of dredging ground. It has 4,750 miles of coast line, and with a white population of but 65,000 its total trade in 1 909 was over sixty millions. Nearly 200 miles have already been completed of the Copper River and Northwestern Railroad which extends from tidewater at Cordova through the Copper River Valley to Copperfield near the Chitini River and the Behring Lake coal fields. The Geological Survey in one of their recent reports give it as their estimate that there are sixteen billion tons of coal in the known coal areas of Alaska, with vast amounts in regions yet unexplored in that territory. It is claimed that the deposits of coal on the Matamuska River are worth as much as those on the Behring River, and that a conservative estimate is that these two fields alone are worth over two billions of dollars. In addi- tion to these there are many more valuable coal fields the area of which is estimated at 12,867 square miles by the Geological Survey. A San Francisco newspaper remarks: "It is estimated that Alaska has sixteen billion tons of coal in sight, but with her climate it is hardly more than she needs". The fact is, that Alaska has a better average climate than is generally understood, and more arable ground than Sweden, Norway and Finland, which have a population of ten millions. There is said to be enough hay going to waste each year in the unculti- vated valleys of southeastern Alaska to feed all of the cattle in Montana and Texas combined. The gold product in 1909 was about $19,000,000, and was only exceeded in the United States by Colorado. On Kenai Peninsula, along the line of the 70 mile Alaska Central Rail- road, there are many thousands of acres of poplar and spruce available as pulp wood of a high quality. Alaska contains millions of acres of good grazing and farming land. There is a total area of about 2,500 square miles along the western edge of Kenai Peninsula alone, bordering Cook Inlet, the greater part of which is probably available for grazing and tillage. The Knix Arm region, Matanuska Valley to the eastward, the Yentna to the westward and the main Sushitna Valley and smaller tributaries running northward far into the interior, may also be roughly estimated at about 2,500 square miles of available tillage lands, but will probably exceed that amount considerably. Observations of tides by the United States Survey ship McArthur in Turnagain Bay and Knix Arm, Cook Inlet, Alaska, show what are prob- ably the second highest in the world, of thirty feet variation and a tidal cur- rent of eight knots. The only tides which are known to exceed this record are in the Bay of Fundy. The Alaskan purchase in present and prospective value is second only to the bargain secured by the United States in 1 803 through the fore- sight of President Thomas Jefferson, when the great tract of land known as the country of Louisiana was acquired from Napoleon Bonaparte, then First Consul of France, for fifteen million dollars. This vast domain with an area of more than a million square miles included the region in which now lie the States of Arkansas, a part of Colorado and Idaho, North and South Dakota, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, and Wyoming. Exclusive of Indians, at that time the entire population of the region was barely 90,000, of whom 40,000 were negro slaves. There was strong opposition to this purchase in New England, where there was bitter feeling against President Jefferson, the prime mover in this matter. On July 31. 1803, the U. S. Senate formally ratified the agreement between the two governments. The value of the Louisiana Purchase must now be reckoned in billions. Perhaps the most interesting archaeological discovery made on the north coast of Alaska has a relation to the present methods of personal decoration of the natives of Alaska, the significant feature of which is the wearing of lip-buttons, or labrets, by the men, but strangely enough, not by women. The present custom is, that when a boy is fourteen or fifteen years of age, holes are pierced in his lower lip, one below each corner of his mouth. A small wooden plug is at first inserted to keep the opening from growing together, and month by month a bigger and bigger plug is used, till finally the openings are half an inch in diameter. At this point the young man begins to wear stone or ivory plugs. These ornaments are put in from the inside, ordinarily as one might insert a button into a shirt front. Usually the two buttons worn are each of a different sort, while sometimes only one of the holes is filled, and in summer men are occasionally met who wear no buttons at all. When a visitor is seen approaching, however, the ornaments are always inserted, for they do not feel dressed without them. In preparing for sleep they are usually removed. The Coast region has much rain and snow, but an equable temperature, and the winter at Sitka is no colder than at Washington, D. C. The snow- fall at Valdez has reached 60 feet, and the rainfall at Sitka 1 1 1 inches in a season. In the Yukon basin it is very cold in the winter, although the summer temperature may reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade. The rainfall is small. The soil is permanently frozen for several yards below the surface, but a thin surface layer thaws out every summer. The tundra region about Nome has a still different climate, more severe than that of the interior. There the marshy lands, interspersed with ponds and lakes, have few grasses, but on the hills and gravelly knolls there is a greater variety of grasses than in the interior. Much of Alaska (formerly known as Unalaska) has a good climate and productive soil. In the southwestern part the climate is similar to that of New York, Illinois, Michigan and Wisconsin. On the southeastern coast it is rainy with a moderate temperature. Central Alaska will be the greater agricultural country. Roadmaking, however, will be required on a large scale, as in nearly 600,000 square miles Alaska has only 400 miles of wagon roads. But one per cent, of the territory has been thoroughly surveyed. The four great resources of this section are minerals, agriculture, fish and timber. The salmon fisheries produce annually about $ 1 0,000,000, and next in importance are the halibut fisheries, the annual product of which is nearly 6,000,000 pounds, nearly all of which is marketed as fresh fish. Next are the cod fisheries, nearly equal in extent to the halibut. The timber, while not comparable to the extensive forests of Oregon and Washington, is still of great importance. The forest reserves cover an aggregate area of over 26,000,000 acres. Nearly every cannery and mine in southeastern Alaska has its own sawmill. The Navy Department will soon establish two additional wireless stations on the southern coast of Alaska. They will be located at Unalaska, one of the Aleutian Islands, and at Kodiak, which is south of the Peninsula. The erection later of a wireless station on the Hawaiian Island of Oahu is contemplated. An effort will then be made to establish wireless commu- nication between Alaska and the Hawaiian Islands. Alaska's population as given by the last census was 64,353. It is a coun- try which should grow rapidly with the development of its resources. 10 ARIZONA Arizona, with 113,020 square miles of territory, is larger than Italy; has a greater area than New York and all New England, and is larger than New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New Jersey combined. All the farms of Rhode Island could be put in one of its irrigated valleys. It has an unbroken forest larger than the State of Indiana. The 200 miles that the Colorado River plunges through the Grand Canon make up the world's greatest power producer. This region was known to Spanish explorers as early as 1 526, when Don Jose de Vasconcellos, a follower of Cortez, crossed the center of this terri- tory towards the great Canon. He found on the river banks ruins of cities which seemed to have existed for centuries. These, with regular fortifica- tions, reservoirs, canals and walls of solid masonry, usually two stories in height, show that the country was once inhabited by an enterprising and cultivated people. It is estimated that fully 100,000 must have inhabited the Valley of the Gila alone. The next Spanish Expedition was that of Marcos de Niza, a Fran- ciscan priest, on or about May 9, 1 539. He was accompanied and guided by a negro slave, Estavanico, who was one of the survivors of the expedition of De Narvaez to the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico in 1 528. Es- tavanico and his master, Dorantes, and Castillo Maldonado, made up the forlorn party led by Cabeza de Vaca across Texas and northern Mexico to the Spanish settlement at Culiacan, where they arrived in April, 1536, after great suffering and one of the most remarkable journeys recorded in history. The tales told by these men, of rich cities and a thickly peopled country to the northward, excited great interest among the Spanish leaders in Mex- ico and it was hoped and believed that another Peru waited there to yield its wealth to those who came first. It was these stories which inspired Mar- cos de Niza to undertake the expedition which led to the discovery of Arizona. Don Antonio de Mendoza, "the good viceroy" of new Spain, out- fitted this expedition, which consisted of De Niza and a brother priest, Ono- rato; the negro, Estavanico, whom Mendoza had bought from his master, Dorantes, and who was particularly valuable because of his knowledge of the Indian life; a group of Indians who had been kept at Culiacan till they understood some Spanish and were useful as interpreters, and many Indians who followed from village to village as the expedition moved northward. Estavanico made himself objectionable to the Indians and on the 21st II of May news came to Marcos that his guide had been killed at one of the cities of Cibola. Without him De Niza could not continue his explora- tions, but he went to the top of a small hill from which he saw the city of Cibola, which he reported to be larger than the City of Mexico and the land the best and largest yet discovered. His report was so favorable that Viceroy Mendoza outfitted a large ex- pedition of Spanish gentlemen and soldiers, mounted and on foot, with several hundred Indians, under the command of Francisco Coronado, to seek out the new land and the wealth of Cibola. Coronado's expedition started north- ward on February 23, 1 540. In the latter part of May he entered Arizona, following a river which he called Nexpa, either the Santa Cruz or the San Pedro. On July 7, 1 540, Coronado reached one of the Zuni pueblos of New Mexico and soon realized that there were no gold and gems to be found in the land of Cibola. About the middle of July, 1 540, Coronado sent Don Pedro de Tovar with a small troop of horsemen and footmen to find a group of cities to the westward, similar to Cibola. He found the Moqui towns of northeastern Arizona. Hearing of a great river and mighty people farther westward, Tovar sent Don Garcia de Cardenas to look over that country. He reached the brink of the Grand Canon of the Colorado and brought back a report of the great river and of the absence of people of any sort. July 8, 1539, Francisco de Ulloa sailed from Acapulco to explore the coast of the Gulf of California for Cortez. He reached the head of the gulf but did not explore far enough to find the mouth of the Colorado river. May 9, 1 540, Hernando de Alarcon sailed from Acapulco to explore the coast in cooperation with Coronado's land expedition. In August he reached the sand shoals at the head of the Gulf of California, where Ulloa had turned back, and exploring among them he found the mouth of a large and swift river which he entered on Thursday, August 26th, and which he named the Buena Guia. In September, 1 540, Coronado left some seventy or eighty of his men in the valley of Corazones under command of Melchoir Diaz. With twenty- five of the strongest Diaz explored the coast of the Gulf of California and found the Colorado River, which he named the Rio del Tizon, or Fire- brand, because of the way he saw the Indians of the vicinity using firebrands to warm themselves. Following Coronado's marches the more important Spanish expeditions were directed to New Mexico, rather than to Arizona; but the region south of the Gila River was well known to and frequently visited by both 12 Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries and, eventually, permanent missions were established in the region which was known as Pimeria Alta. Arizona formed a part of Mexico until its purchase by the United States in 1850. It was organized into a territory by Act of Congress, February 24, 1 863, with its area described as comprising all the United Stales lands west of longitude 109 to the California line. The population then was 6,500. Since then the northwest corner has been ceded to Nevada. It is a mountainous region and some of its area is still unexplored. To one of the pioneer explorers of the Arizona region the Zuni Indians gave the following account of their origin as preserved in their traditions: Their legend relates that in the beginning a race of men sprang out of the earth as plants arise and come forth in the Spring. This race increased until they spread over the whole earth, and after continuing through countless ages passed away. The earth then remained without people a great length of time until at length the sun had compassion on the earth and sent a celes- tial maiden to re-people the globe. This young goddess was called Arizonia, signifying "Maiden Queen," who in time blessed the earth with twins, son and daughter, and they became the father and mother of the Zuni Indians, and from this tribe arose all other races of men as offshoots from this original tribe, the Zuni Indians being the only pure, original stock. The first officials of Arizona were appointed by President Lincoln. Not one of them had ever seen the country, and as there were no railroads they outfitted with wagons and traveled westward in true pioneer style. On De- cember 29, 1 863, being sure that they had crossed the western line of New Mexico into Arizona, they stopped at Navajo Springs and the government was formally organized in a wilderness unpeopled except by Indians. The capital of Arizona was temporarily located by proclamation of the governor at a military post which had been established only a month before in Chino Valley, about 20 miles from the present city of Prescott. The governor's party reached this place in January, and in May the post, named Fort Whipple, was removed to the present site on Granite Creek, and the capital went with it. The fort was moved because rich placer diggings had been found in the region and it was desired to protect the miners from In- dian raids. A town was laid out a mile up the creek from the fort and was named Prescott in honor of the great historian. The name was selected by Richard McCormick, secretary to the governor, and later second governoi of Arizona. The streets of Prescott were named for Spanish explorers of Mexico and the Southwest. The first silver mining in Arizona by Americans was undertaken by Charles D. Poston, Sylvester Mowry, and others in the Santa Rita and adjacent mountains. This silver was run into crude bars at the mines and 13 some of it was shipped by way of San Francisco to China, where a profit- able advance upon the American price was realized. It was made into Chinese and other Asiatic coins. The early placer gold diggings of Arizona were extremely rich, thousands of dollars being taken out in a few days. The most famous were La Paz, near the Colorado River (where an adobe town of several thousand inhabi- tants sprang up like a mushroom, to be abandoned when the diggings were worked out), Weaver, Rich Hill, and Lynx Creek. Prospecting in northern Arizona soon developed valuable quartz mines, both gold and silver. The first very rich gold mine to be worked was the Vulture, named for the large king vulture which is only found in that vicin- ity and in South America, and which has been likened to the condor, al- though smaller. The Vulture is said to have yielded $20,000,000, but as "high-grading" was carried on, its true yield will never be known. It is again being worked after many years of idleness and promises to be as rich as of old. The most famous silver mines in northern Arizona were the Peck, which yielded many tons of almost pure silver, and the Tip Top. Other mining districts were Big Bug and Bumblebee. In a canon near the former a nug- get worth over $700 was picked up by a Mexican. Nuggets of pure silver have also been found at other points in Arizona, notably near the city of Globe, which is now in the heart of one of the richest copper mining regions. Copper was not sought by the first prospec- tors in Arizona, as the methods of working the ore were then too expensive to permit a profit. Arizona contains some of the largest copper mines in the world and has ranked first among the copper producing States in the Union. Six of the important cities of Arizona have been directly built up by great copper mines; Jerome, by the United Verde, in Yavapai County; Douglas and Bisbee, in Cochise County, by the great Copper Queen re- gion; Clifton and Morenci, in Graham County, and Globe in Gila County. The total mineral production in 1909 was $43,000,000. The first rail- road in Arizona was built for the Clifton mines ; it was a very narrow gauge and the engine was hauled several hundred miles on a freight wagon. On some of the early runs the Apache Indians tried to lasso the smokestack and pull the little engine off the track. The Grand Canon of the Colorado River, unequaled in the world for grandeur and picturesque beauty, lies wholly within Arizona. It is over 200 miles long and in some places is more than a mile deep. It was ex- plored by Major Powell in 1 869. Before his party passed through the canon others had attempted to explore it from below. In 1 858 Lieut. Ives 14 ascended the river in a small steamboat to the mouth of the canon, and in 1864 Octavius D. Gass, a member of the early legislatures of Arizona, tried to prospect and explore the lower canon. Major Powell made a second trip which added much to the scientific knowledge of the region. The country lying north of the Grand Canon is one of the richest parts of Arizona, containing many mines and much forest and grazing land. Lee's Ferry on the Colorado River was established by John D. Lee, who was con- victed and executed for participation in the Mountain Meadow Massacre. Arizona contains in the Mogollon Forest one of the largest unbroken bodies of timber in the world. It consists chiefly of pine, which yields a fine grade of lumber. In this forest is a volcanic area of recent date as weird and remarkable as the lava fields of Iceland. The prehistoric cliffs and cave dwellings of Arizona were discovered by the earliest explorers, and the Casa Grande, a great pueblo dwelling men- tioned by the Spanish explorers, has recently been excavated by the Bureau of Ethnology and shown to be of great extent. It stands in the desert near the city of Florence, a few miles from the Southern Pacific railroad. Phoenix, the present capital of Arizona, was so named because it is built in a valley which is filled with remains of a prehistoric people, with canals still clearly outlined, ruins of buildings similar to the Casa Grande, and stone implements and other objects. The name was given by Darrell Duppa, an English gentleman of scholarly tastes, who recalled the oriental story of the phoenix bird which, after living several hundred years, built and lighted its own funeral pyre from the ashes of which a new phoenix ap- peared. Phoenix is surrounded by an irrigated section of extensive area in a high state of development. The completion of the New Roosevelt Dam insures an abundant supply of water. The ostrich industry is becom- ing an important factor in this immediate vicinity Many of the canals which bring water to irrigate the country around Phoenix follow the course of the ditches built by an unknown people. Mesa, in the Salt River Valley, about twenty miles from Phoenix, was settled by Mormon colonists, who dug canals and developed the first suc- cessful farms in the region. Near it is the "City of the Dead," a prehistoric pueblo mound excavated by Frank Cushing, noted for his work among the Zuni Indians of New Mexico. Yuma, on the Colorado River, was the site of an early ferry where, during the gold rush to California, thousands of people crossed the great stream. It is now of special importance because of the Laguna Dam, a huge weir which diverts the waters of the river to irrigate thousands of acres of the rich- est land in the West. Yuma has a semi-tropical climate, and produces or- anges and lemons of rare quality. IS Navajo and Apache Counties were named for Arizona's two most pow- erful Indian tribes. The earliest settlers were Mormon colonists from Utah, who built canals and established prosperous farms in the small but fertile valleys. These counties contain the finest and most extensive cliff ruins in Arizona, and pictured rocks on which an ancient people have left a fantastic record to which no one has yet found a key. The Moqui villages, among the attractions in this region, were the com- munal homes of an Indian people, who centuries ago retired to this desert region and built their strange dwellings high on almost inaccessible cliffs. The snake dance and the corn dance, which take place on alternate years at these villages, have attracted many tourists and scientific observers. The petrified forests are in these counties; large areas strewn with giant tree trunks turned to richly colored, agatized stone. Arizona contains all of one and part of another of the government irriga- tion projects. The Tonto Basin Storage reservoir is about seventy miles from Phoenix and lies in a rugged valley which was a favorite stronghold of the Apache Indians, and which contains some fine cliff dwellings. The Laguna project, about twelve miles above Yuma, will water land both in California and in Arizona. Arizona contains the largest body of farming land between Kansas and California, and these and other private irrigation projects insure its rapid development. It offers all altitudes from near sea level to 1 2,000 feet above, and a variety of climates from cold and temperate to semi-tropical. Mohave County was one of the four original counties of Arizona. It is the home of the Mohave Indians and of the Wollapais (properly Hualpais), a smaller band of Indians of mixed stock, who gave efficient aid to General Crook in his Apache campaigns. The Wollapais are wonderful trailers and can follow a man or animal for days by clues the keenest white man would miss. Mohave is one of the richest mining sections of Arizona and contains some of the oldest mining towns, among them Mineral Park, which was once the county seat, and after years of desertion is now prosperous and growing. Kingman, the largest city of Mohave County, was once a cattle town, but is now a rich mining center. Flagstaff, in the heart of the Mogollon Forest, was so named from a tall pine tree trimmed up and used as a flag pole by one of the first parties to camp on the site. Near it are strange ice caves of unknown extent and a cliff village, numbering hundreds of cave houses. Flagstaff is the scene of a great saw mill and lumber industry, and near it many thousands of ties were cut for the building of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This line, 16 now the Santa Fe Pacific, still draws many of its ties from the Flagstaff forests. The only Mission which has survived to the present day is that of San Xavier del Bac, nine miles south of the city of Tucson. This building is one of the most beautiful specimens of early Spanish architecture in the United States. Its interior decoration, elaborate and intricate in the extreme, is still wonderfully preserved. The building itself has recently been restored and the walls strengthened and safeguarded. The city of Tucson is the oldest in Arizona and one of the most inter- esting in the United States. It was originally surrounded by a high adobe wall to insure protection against the hostile Indians and was garrisoned by Spanish, and later by Mexican, troops. It came into the possession of the United States by the Gadsden purchase of 1853. The Carnegie Institute of Washington, D. C. (endowed with 25 millions), has its Department of Botanical Research located here with laboratories, shops and a reservation of land and reservoirs. Arizona's population, as given by the new census, was 204,345, a gain of 66.2 per cent, in ten years. CALIFORNIA Motto of California, "Eureka" "I have found it." In 1534 Cortez sent Hernando de Grijalva on an errand of discovery to the Pacific Coast, and he probably saw the Peninsula of California. Twenty-five years before a romance was published in Spain in which are described the doings of a pagan Queen of Amazons who brought from the "right hand of the Indies" her allies to assist the infidels in their attack upon Constantinople. The romance was entitled, "Esplandian," the name of an imaginary Greek emperor living in Stamboul, the Turkish name of Con- stantinople. The Amazonian Queen, whose kingdom was rich in gold, dia- monds and pearls, was called California. The author probably derived the name from Calif, the title of a successor of Mohamed. The author says: "Know that on the right hand of the Indies there is an Island called Cali- fornia, very close to the Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black women without any man amongst them, for they live in the fashion of the Amazonians. They are of strong and hearty bodies, of ardent courage and of great force. Their island is the strongest in all the world with its steep cliffs and rocky shores. Their arms are all of gold and so is the harness of the wild beasts which they tame and ride. For in the island there is no metal but gold. They live in caves wrought out of the rocks with much labor. They have many ships with which they sail to the other countries to obtain booty." Another suggested derivation of the State's name is from the Spanish "Caliente Fornalla" "hot furnace," but is not accepted by Californians, as it conveys a wrong idea of the climate. Both Cortez and Grijalva believed that they were in the neighborhood of the Coast of Asia, and as the aspect of the country corresponded with the description in the romance, they named the peninsula California. The first white man who made the overland trip to California was Cap- tain J. S. Smith. He left Salt Lake, then a trading post of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, with 1 5 hunters and trappers on August 28, 1 826, to find a new country in which to hunt and trap. Traveling in a southerly direction he discovered a river which he called the "Adams," now known as the "Rio Virgin"; following it to its junction with the Colorado. He continued down the latter until he came to a Mohave village where he rested and then went across the desert to San Gabriel Mission in De- cember, 1 826. The arrival of an armed party of Americans from across 18 the mountains alarmed the native Californians and the prospectors were thrown into jail, but were soon liberated and then went through the Cajon Pass into Tulare County. By the first of May Captain Smith reached a fork of the Sacramento River near where the town of Folsom is now lo- cated, and established a summer camp on the river now known as the "American River" from that circumstance. The route taken by Captain Smith's party is substantially the same as that followed by overland emi- gration in later years. It may be regarded as a settled historical fact that the first authenticated discovery of gold in California (which excited no particular attention at the time) was made on the San Francisco Rancho in the San Feliciano Canon, Los Angeles County (ten miles northwest of Newhall and about forty miles northwest of Los Angeles), on March 9, 1840, by Francisco Lopes. Eight years later Marshall's discovery of gold on the south fork of the American River in El Dorado County startled the world, and during the next eighteen months 1 50,000 gold seekers arrived in California. Reverend Walter Colton, while acting as Alcalde of Monterey in 1 846- 1847, impaneled the first jury ever summoned in California. The case involved property on the one side and integrity of character on the other, one-third of the jury being Mexican, one-third Californians, and one-third Americans. A compromise verdict was given. One recovered property and the other his character. An interpreter was needed in the trial. By the defeat of the Mexican Army under Flores at the battles of Paso de Bartola and La Mesa, and the capture of Los Angeles by Commodore Stockton and General Kearny on January 10, 1847, the transition was made from Mexican to American rule. The first overland stage line was established in 1857, the route being from San Antonio de Baxon, Texas, to San Diego, California, via El Paso, Yuma and Tucson. The service was bi-monthly. The first overland mail left San Diego on August 9, 1857. There seems to be a general misapprehension among those who have never visited California in reference to its climate. Not so many years ago, when Los Angeles had 20,000 people, some went so far as to say: "There is nothing to support such a population but climate." While of course that statement was a narrow one, it did rather grudgingly intimate that Southern California had at least a small asset in the way of climate. Los Angeles now has a population of over 300,000, and is quite likely within ten or fifteen years to be in the million class. It must not be supposed that all California is alike in climate, for the temperature is extremely varied. South- ern California has an all-the-year-round climate, and at Los Angeles the [Q records of the Weather Bureau show that trie thermometer went below 32 degrees only 6 times during 1 years. Extreme northern California has some snow in winter, while San Fran- cisco is colder in summer than winter, with heavy clothing acceptable in August. The old minstrel description of an appropriate costume for San Francisco was, "a linen duster trimmed with fur." Near the Arizona line it is exceedingly hot in summer. Other portions of the State, and notably Southern California, have a happy position between these two extremes, and as compared with Florida have the great advantage of not only a charming winter climate, but one which allows outdoor life with every comfort every day in the year. Winter (so-called) is not heralded by driving snow or icy blasts, but by green on the hillsides after the first rain, and while the mornings and evenings are cooler, flowers are not injured nor touched by frost. The winter season is marked by the rains which come between November and April, but is really spring as compared with the East. The annual rainfall in the vicinity of Los Angeles for the past 25 years averaged about 1 6 inches. Thunder storms are rarely experienced, and cyclones are unknown. The average of clear or partially clear days through the year is 3 1 6 days. The cool trade wind from the Pacific modi- fies the summer heat, and in winter there is a warm return current from the south. The ocean temperature at Santa Monica (near Los Angeles) in January is 61 degrees, as compared with 32 degrees at Newport on the Atlantic at the same time. Consumptives are particularly benefited by the pure, dry air. In the entire State of California deaths from diseases of the respiratory organs are less than ten per cent., of which more than half are imported. The proportion oi deaths from the same causes in New York are 20 per cent. ; 24 per cent, in Michigan, and 27 per cent, in Maine. In 1909 the value of California's agricultural and mineral products was more than $350,000,000, and San Francisco, as its chief city, profited by the enormous resulting trade. California is now the world's greatest oil producer. Its proven oil fields already amount to 850 square miles, with a present annual production of about 65,000,000 barrels. In Riverside, since 1904, 9,000 trees have been planted by the city, making 34 miles of tree-lined streets, with 40 feet between trees. In Orange County are the most extensive celery fields in the world, the annual shipments being 2,500 carloads, largely attributable to the fore- sight of a commission merchant of Kansas City, named Smeltzer, who went to Southern California some 1 5 years ago to investigate the muck- lands of Orange County. Mr. Smeltzer was a handler of celery, who 20 realized its possibilities and knew that nowhere in the East were there such thousands of acres of this peculiar soil in one continuous tract. With seed imported from France, an experimental acre was planted with re- sults that exceeded all expectation. There are now in this small county, which borders on the Pacific ocean, 5,000 acres of celery under profitable cultivation. The muck is several feet deep, is jet black, and so free from grit that it is nearly as fine as flour. The fertility of the soil is such that celery growers have no fertilizer bills to pay. Southern California produced in 1910 about 9,000 tons of English walnuts. One of New York's leading merchants recently visited the Pacific Coast for the first time, and on return gave his impressions as follows : "I always had the idea (possessed, I am afraid, by many mistaken Amer- icans) that the Mediterranean countries, the Riviera, and the famous resorts abroad, surpassed in climate and natural beauty anything possible to be seen anywhere else, but there is nothing to surpass the Grand Canon of Arizona. Its vastness and awe-inspiring character are far beyond my power to describe. There could be nothing more impressive than the marvelous giant trees, nothing so pleasing as the beautiful country of California. And the climate of that far West, combined with the ever-varying scenery, sinks the Riviera into insignificance." The advice of Horace Greeley is more vitally important to-day than ever. The young man who does not fear work would best take up his. traps and go west. The man with enterprise, earnest working capacity and any energy wo;rth while will there find a great field of endeavor. "The spirit of th e West, a spirit that America may well be proud of, is personified in the p eople of San Francisco. The energy, pluck, enterprise and go-ahead-ativewesf, of these people have built on the ruins of old San Francisco a bigger and more modern city than ever." In 1835, Rich ard H. Dana, Jr., in his "Two Years Before the Mast," referring to the J J a y of San Francisco, said: "If ever California becomes a prosperous coi mtr y, this bay will be the center of its prosperity." Here is one of the gr *atest harbors in the world, with a tidal reservoir of seventy- nine square mi' #$ completely land-locked. ban rranc &co j s the largest city west of Chicago and St. Louis, the central port r a jl tne Pacific seacoast between Panama and Puget Sound, and the gre A test single trading and shipping point in all the region between the Mississ- ppj anc j the Pacific, and between Canada and Mexico, a region comprisin' ^ ^,0^ than two-thirds the area of the United States. It will fog vitally affected by the completion of the Panama Canal, for it is close to ^ jjjje jj,^, o f the gteal;