Ube TOorl6fc
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
Zhc WLotlV* Great Explorers
an^ Explorations,
Edited by J. Scott Keltie, Librarian, Royal Geographical Society ;
H J. Mackinder, M.A., Reader in Geography at the University
of Oxford; and E. G. Ravenstein, F.R.G.S.
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
The World's Great Explorers and Explorations.
The following Volumes are already pub'ished, and may now be obtained
in three different bindings : — Price per vol.
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1. JOHN DAVIS, Arctic Explorer and Early India
Navigator. By Clements R. Markham, C.B., F.R.S.
Crown 8vo. With 24 Illustrations and 4 Coloured Maps.
[Second Edition.}
" If the succeeding volumes attain the high standard of excellence of this
'Life of John Davis,' the Series will, when complete, form a biographical
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A cadany.
2. PALESTINE. By Major C. R. Conder, R.E., Leader
of the Palestine Exploring Expeditions. Crown 8vo. With 26
Illustrations and 7 Coloured Maps. [Second Edition.]
" It is charmingly written, contains much information in a convergent
form, and is well illustrated by woodcuts and maps." — Athencrum.
3. MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER. By Joseph
Thomson, Author of "Through Masai Land," &c. Crown
8vo. With 24 Illustrations and 7 Coloured Maps.
"Mr. Thomson's book is to be strongly recommended to all who wish to
understand the position in Africa to-day, as an intelligent Englishman
should do." — Saturday Revieiv.
4. MAGELLAN and the First Circumnavigation of the
Globe. By F. H. H. Guillemard, M.A., M.D., Late Lec-
turer in Geography at the University of Cambridge. Crown 8vo.
With 17 Illustrations and 13 Coloured and 5 Uncoloured Maps.
A few copies may still be obtained of the Large Paper Edition, on hand-
made paper. Price on application.
"This is not only a record of splendid and successful adventure (not the
less successful because Magellan died, like Wolfe, in the arms of victory)
but the story of an exquisitely noble life." — County Gentleman.
5. JOHN FRANKLIN AND THE NORTH-WEST
PASSAGE. By Captain Albert Markham, R.N. Crown
8vo. With 20 Illustrations and 4 Coloured Maps.
To be followed very shortly by
6. LIVINGSTONE AND THE EXPLORATION OF
CENTRAL AFRICA. By H. H. Johnston, C.B., F.R.G.S.,
F.Z.S., &c., H.M. Commissioner and Consul-General. With
24 Illustrations from Photographs and from the Author's Draw-
ings, and 3 Coloured Maps.
Also a Limited Edi ion (Large Paper'), printed on hand-made paper,
•with additional Illustrations from the Author s V rowings, and an Etched
Frontispiece. Price 25J. net.
Sir John Franklin.
(From a lithographed copy of the painting l<y Negelin.)
LIFE OF
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN
THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.
CAPTAIN ALBERT HASTINGS MAUKHAM,
R.X., A.D.C.
LONDON:
GEORGE PHILIP & SON, 32 FLEET STREET;
LIVERPOOL : 45 to 51 SOUTH CASTLE STREET.
i8qi.
G
6£>0
I?
PREFACE.
"To live with fame
The gods allow to many ; but to die
With equal lustre is a blessing Heaven
Selects from all the choicest boons of fate,
And with a sparing hand on few bestows."
— Glover.
There are few names that have been more prominently
brought to the notice of students of geographical re-
search, during the present century, than that of Sir
John Franklin. It will occur to them as that of a
skilful sailor, an ardent explorer, an able administrator,
and above all, as that of a daring and successful Arctic
navigator. Not only is his name connected with good
and useful service accomplished in those capacities, and
more especially with the discovery of those northern
regions in the exploration of which he eventually sacri-
ficed his life, but it is also associated at an early period
of his professional career, with the survey and explora-
tion of that Greater Britain of the southern hemisphere,
Australia. Moreover, it was subsequently connected for
many years with Van Diemen's Land, over which colony
he ruled with ability, and with a wise forethought for
its future prosperity and development.
The history of the life of such a man, one who has
2065245
vi PREFACE.
so deservedly earned for himself a conspicuous place on
the list of distinguished explorers in various parts of the
globe, should not remain untold and practically unknown.
It is therefore not inappropriate that it should form the
subject of a biographical sketch, in a series the main
object of which is to impart geogi\aphical information.
In his exertions to increase our knowledge of geo-
graphy, especially in those regions whose southern
limit is bounded by the Arctic circle, Sir John Franklin
occupies an almost unique position among the numerous
gallant and able explorers who have both preceded
and followed him. It is only necessary to glance in a
superficial way over the published records of Franklin's
naval career, to be satisfied that he was a man of
dauntless courage, indomitable energy and perseverance,
brave and resolute in overcoming difficulties. He was
a courageous leader, combining tact and discretion
with a daring which might almost be considered as
bordering on rashness; above all, he possessed a rare
capacity for encountering, with a cheerful and contented
spirit, hardships and privations of no ordinary kind.
He was, in its fullest sense, a born leader, evincing on
several occasions a resolute determination and dogged
inflexibility of purpose, under circumstances and con-
ditions sufficiently appalling to test the courage and the
endurance of the bravest of men.
To those who have interested themselves in Arctic
research, the name of Sir John Franklin is of course
familiar, not only from the discoveries he achieved in
high latitudes, but also on account of that halo of
romantic uncertainty which kept his fate, and that of
his brave companions, enshrouded in mystery for such
a long time. The numerous expeditions that were de-
spatched for the purpose of endeavouring to obtain
PREFACE. vii
information regarding the missing ships, also absorbed
a large share of public interest for many years.
It is a very safe assertion to make that if it had not
been for Sir John Franklin, and the exertions that were
made to ascei'tain his fate, our knowledge of the North
Polar regions would be a great deal more limited than it is
at present ; for the fact must not be lost sight of that the
result of the examination made by the several search ex-
peditions sent in quest of Sir John and those under his
command, was the achievement of valuable geographical
and other scientific results, that would otherwise, in all
probability, never have been accomplished. It is therefore
only due to the memory of Sir John Franklin to say that
to him, directly and indirectly, we owe the discovery and
exploration of a very large portion of the Arctic basin.
It is earnestly to be hoped that the work so energetic-
ally and so ably commenced by Sir John Franklin, and
for the accomplishment of which he laid down his life,
may again be resumed, and eventually brought to a
glorious and successful termination. We shall then be
able to say, that the lives of Franklin and his gallant
companions have not been sacrificed in vain, and we
shall be able to reflect with pride on the share, and let
us hope it will be a large one, that our countrymen have
had in the successful achievement of this great geogra-
phical work.
In the compilation of this volume I have endeavoured
to introduce, as much as possible, in accordance with
the expressed wish of my Editors, the personal element,
and to render it as true and as complete a narrative of
the life of Sir John Franklin as the materials at my
disposal would permit.
The authorities I have been able to refer to, for rati
able information in connection with his life, have been
viii PREFACE.
very few, and have been confined principally to the logs,
journals, and other documents I was permitted to con-
sult in the Public Record Office.
The compilation of the work has, in consequence of
the nature of my professional duties, occupied me for
some time, but the dove-tailing together of all the in-
formation I have succeeded in obtaining, and which has
reached me in a somewhat piecemeal fashion, has been
a labour of love, and a task in the execution of which
I have been deeply interested. Any shortcomings or
incoherence in the narrative that may strike the critical
reader will, I hope, be ascribed to the difficulties under
which I laboured, and to the meagreness of all authentic
information that has hitherto been published in connec-
tion with the subject of this memoir.
I was fortunately successful at the outset in enlisting
the sympathy of Miss Sophia Cracroft, the talented niece
of Sir John Franklin, in my undertaking, who most
kindly placed at my disposal information that I should
otherwise have been unable to obtain.
My thanks are also due to Colonel John Barrow, who,
directly he was made acquainted with the nature of my
work, most generously afforded me all the assistance
in his power, and kindly placed at my disposal his col-
lection of the portraits of Arctic worthies, painted by
the eminent artist Mr. Stephen Pearce, some of which
have been photographed and reproduced here as illustra-
tions. And last, but not least, my grateful thanks are
due to Sir Leopold M'Clintock, who kindly looked over
the proofs of my narrative relating to that most successful
journey of his which definitely cleared up the mystery
attached to the fate of Sir John Franklin, and who also
made many valuable suggestions of which I was only too
glad to avail myself. A. H. M.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
I. CHILDHOOD — ENTERS THE NAVY — BATTLE OP COPEN-
HAGEN I
II. EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA 1 7
III. FLINDERS AND BASS — EXAMINATION OF THE SEA-BOARD
OF AUSTRALIA 34
IV. WRECK OF THE "PORPOISE" — REACH CANTON — DEFEAT
OF LINOIS BY DANCE — ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND . . 54
V. APPOINTED TO " BELLEROPHON " — BATTLE OF TRAFALGAR
— JOINS THE "BEDFORD" — ATTACK ON NEW ORLEANS
— ON HALF-PAY 7 1
VI. RETROSPECT OF GEOGRAPHICAL EXPLORATION IN THE
ARCTIC REGIONS 78
VII. EXPEDITION OF BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN TOWARDS THE
NORTH POLE 89
VIII. FRANKLIN'S FIRST LAND JOURNEY 107
ix. franklin's first land journey — (continued) . .124
X. FRANKLIN'S SECOND OVERLAND JOURNEY . . . I46
XI. PARRY'S THIRD EXPEDITION — HIS ATTEMPT TO REACH
THE POLE — SIR JOHN ROSS — DISCOVERY OF MAGNETIC
POLE — FRANKLIN IN THE MEDITERRANEAN— GOVERN-
MENT OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND 173
x CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
xii. franklin's last voyage 193
xiii. the last dats 213
xiv. anxiety respecting safety of franklin— expeditions
despatched in search 235
xv. voyages of — dr. hayes— nordenskiold— leigh smith
— the germans— captain hall — the austro-hun-
garians — sir george nares — allen young —
schwatka — the "jeannette" — nordenskiold ac-
complishes the nokth-east passage — leigh smith
— greeley — valedictory 278
Index 316
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
i. Sir John Franklin Frontispiece
(From a lithographed copy of the painting by Ncgelin, kindly
lent by Mrs. Wills.)
2. Captain Flinders page 41
(From a print, 1814.)
3. Defeat of Admiral Linois by Commodore Dance . . ,, 67
(From an engraving.)
4. Sir Edward Parry and Sir George Back . . to face page 154
(From an engraving 0/ Stephen Pearce's picture of the "Arctic
Council" in the possession of Colonel John Barrow. By
kind permission of Messrs. Graves.)
5. Lady Franklin page 169
(From a portrait taken at Geneva at the age of 24. Kindly lent
by Miss Cracroft.)
6. Thomas Simpson |f 197
(From a photograph.)
7. Mr. Henry Grinnell ......... 241
(From a photograjih, kindly lent by Mrs. Buxton, by permission
of Alex. Bassano.),
8. Captain Sir Robert M 'Clure . ... to face page 249
(From a painting by Stephen Pearce. By kind permission of
Colonel John Barrow.)
9. Captain Sir Leopold M'Clintock ... ,, 267
(From a painting by Stephen Pearce. By kind permission of
Colonel John Barrow.)
10. Facsimile of the " Last Record " ... „ 270
(Reproduced from the "Narrative of the Discovery of the Fate
of Sir John Franklin." By kind permission of Mr. John
Murray.)
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.
Spilsby Church . . page 2
(From, a photograph.)
Louth Grammar - school
(pulled down 1869) . „ 6
(From a photograph.)
Seal of Louth Grammar-
school . . ,, 7
Encampment on Wreck
Reef . . . „ 59
(From a pencil sketch in the pos-
session of Captain Mark-ham.)
Making a Portage round
Trout Falls . . ,,119
(From a pencil sketch in the pos-
session of Captain Markham.)
Mrs. Franklin
page 144
(From a painting in the possession
of, and kindly lent by, the Rev.
John Philip Gell.)
Captain Fitzjames . . ,, 202
(From, a picture at the Royal Geo-
graphical Society.)
Graves on Beechey Island , , 245
(From the "Illustrated Arctic
News," 1852.)
Statue of Franklin at
Spilsby .
(From a photograph.)
276
MAPS {Printed in Colours).
Arctic Regions to face page 78
Spitzbergen . » 9&
Arctic America -exhibiting progress of discovery. „ 193
Franklin's Track— showing line of retreat . . „ 215
MAPS IN TEXT.
Franklin's Winter Quarters— Beechey Island
Map of King William Island
page 211
.. 228
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
CHAPTER I.
CHILDHOOD— ENTERS THE NAVY— BATTLE
OF COPENHAGEN.
1786-1801.
" All my delight on deedes of armes is sett,
To bunt out perilles and adventures hard,
By sea, by land, whereso they may be mett,
Onely for honour and for high regard,
Without respect of richesse or reward."
— Spenseb.
Situated on an eminence of the wolds in Lincolnshire,
and overlooking an extensive tract of fen-land to the
southward, is the picturesque market-town of Spilsby.
Plainly visible above the trees and houses, and standing
out in conspicuous relief against the sky, is seen the
square tower of its church, surmounted by a pinnacle at
each of its angles.
Pretty as is the outside of this little church, the chief
interest connected with it is centred in the interior,
where are the tombs of departed worthies, who once
were powerful in Lincolnshire. On the north side of
the chancel is the Willoughby Chapel, containing the
a
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
[1786-
tombs of John, second Lord Willoughby of Eresby,
who fought at the battle of Cressy; of John, the tbird
Lord, who was at the battle of Poitiers ; of tbe fourth
and fifth Lords; of Richard Bertie and his wife, the
Duchess of Suffolk (who was Baroness Willoughby in
her own right), and many others. At the west end
SPILSBY CHURCH.
of the church, and facing the south, are three marble
mural tablets, which are specially interesting to us.
One has been erected to the memory of Sir Willing-
ham Franklin, a Judge of the Supreme Court of Judi-
cature in Madras, who died on the 31st May 1824,
in the forty-fifth year of his age. Another is to the
memory of Major James Franklin, a distinguished
1801.] SPILSBY CHURCH. 3
officer of the Indian army, and a Fellow of the Royal
Society, who died on the 31st August 1834, aged fifty-
one years. The third tablet bears the following inscrip-
tion : —
In Memory of Captain Sir
John Franklin K.C.H.
K.R.G. D.C.L.
Born at Spilsby 16 April 1786.
Erected by his Widow.
These three men, all of whom attained eminence in
their several professions, were brothers, sons of Wil-
lingham and Hanah Franklin. They were born in the
little town of Spilsby, and all were baptized in that
same church in which is now briefly recorded the his-
tory of their lives. 1
The time when the Franklin family settled at Spilsby
has not been accurately ascertained, but that members
of it must have resided there during the greater part of
the eighteenth century, engaged probably in mercantile
pursuits, is evident from an examination of the parish
register. In 1779 Willingham Franklin, the father of
the subject of these memoirs, purchased the freehold of
a small one-storied house, situated in the main street of
Spilsby, nearly in the centre of the town, and not far
from the market -cross, which is a plain octagonal shaft
1 A description of the interior of the church would not be complete
without allusion to a black board hanging up in the inner porch
at the west end, on which, in large white letters, is quaintly an-
nouced that on the 31st December 1786 (the year in which Sir John
Franklin was born), seven six-bell peals were rung in the church,
consisting of 5040 changes, in two hours and forty minutes ! The
sturdy villagers who accomplished this feat, which has been con-
sidered sufficiently worthy of being chronicled, were, we are informed,
J. and Jo. Haw, G. and J. Houlden, and T. and lid. Martin.
4 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1786-
with a quadrangular base on five steps. This house, in
which John Franklin was ushered into the world, is
still in existence, but it is now the property of a coach-
maker, who is, however, always ready and willing to
show the little room upstairs in which, it is said, the
distinguished Arctic Navigator was born. It was sold
by William Franklin in 1796. It was bought by Lady
Franklin in about 1873, with the object of using it
as a museum, in which to exhibit the many articles and
curiosities collected by her husband, during his long
and adventurous career in different parts of the globe.
This laudable intention was, however, frustrated by
the death of her Ladyship, which event occurred
before her wishes could be accomplished, and the house
was then sold to its present occupier.
The town-hall of Spilsby was built in 1765, but calls
for no special remark.
At the west end of the town is a fine avenue which
leads to the site of Eresby Hall. This charming resi-
dence was destroyed by fire in about 1768, and has never
been rebuilt ; it was the seat of the Duke of Ancaster,
who represented the Willoughby family.
John Franklin was the youngest son of a large family,
consisting of four boys and six girls. Nine were born
at Spilsby, and their births are duly recorded in the
parish register.
Thomas Adams, the eldest son of Willingham Franklin,
was born in November 1773. In after years he raised
a regiment of yeomanry cavalry and was nominated its
colonel. He died at Spilsby on Oct. 11, 1807.
Willingham Franklin, the second son, was born in
November 1779, and was therefore John's senior by
seven years ; he was educated at Westminster, where he
1801.] THE FRANKLIN FAMILY. 5
got head into College when he was fourteen years of age.
He was a Scholar of Corpus in 1776; Fellow of Oriel
in 1 80 1 ; M.A. 1803 ; called to the Bar of the Inner
Temple, and was made Puisne Judge in the Supreme
Court of Madras in April 1822. He died of cholera at
Madras on June 1, 1824.
James Franklin, who was born in May 17 S3, was also
a very distinguished man. Educated at Addiscombe,
he entered the East India Company's service in 1805.
He served with distinction in the Pindaxi war, and as
major of a cavalry regiment was Assistant-Quarter-
master-General of the Bengal army. He was a very
accomplished officer, and was employed on important
surveys. Among others, he surveyed the whole of
Bandalkhand (18 15-21), and executed a valuable map
of that region, accompanied by a memoir on its geology.
His field-books are still preserved at the India Office.
He was a Fellow of the Royal Society. He died on the
31st August 1834, aged fifty-one, and was buried in St.
John's Chapel, Marylebone.
Isabella, the ninth child, was born on the 12th
April 1 79 1, and was married to Thomas Robert Cracroft.
They had issue Miss Sophia Cracroft, the niece and
devoted friend and companion of Lady Franklin.
Henrietta, the youngest daughter, married Mr.
Richard Wright, and died in 1884, at the advanced
age of ninety, at Wrangle, near Boston. Her son is
the present Canon Arthur Wright, Rector of Coningsby,
Lincolnshire.
John, the youngest of the four sons, was born on the
1 6th April 1786, and was baptized two days afterwards
in the parish church. He was first sent to a prepara-
tory school at St. Ives, in Huntingdonshire, and subse-
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
[1788-
quently, at the age of twelve, was entered as a scholar
at the Louth grammar-school. This educational estab-
lishment bore a very high reputation in the county.
It was originally founded by Edward VI. in 1552,
out of the funds of three suppressed guilds, namely,
those of "Our Blessed Lady," the "Holy Trinity,"
and the "Chantry of St. John of Louth." The
LODTH GRAMMAR-SCHOOL, 1 796.
head-master, when Franklin was admitted, was Dr.
Orme, to whose memory a monument is erected at the
east end of the parish church of Louth. He was head-
master from 1796 to 18 14. The boy Franklin must
have often regarded with admiration the lofty spire of
this magnificent church, with its delicate tracery and
exquisite flying buttresses connecting the base of the
spire with the pinnacles of the tower on which it stands.
1801.]
LOUTH GRAMPIAN SCHOOL.
The good people of Louth are deservedly proud of their
beautiful church.
The "Lodge," the residence of the head-master, and
probably the house in which John Franklin boarded,
was built in 17S9, and is very prettily situated within
a short distance of the school. Although this scho-
lastic establishment was, as already stated, founded so
SEAT. OF LOUTH GRAMMAR-SCHOOL.
far back as the middle of the sixteenth century, the
building in which Franklin was educated was only
erected in 17 10. This was pulled down in 1869, when
the present school was built.
John Franklin is not the only boy who, receiving
the rudiments of education at the old Louth Gram-
mar School, has distinguished himself in after years;
8 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1786-
for the institution claims as one of its scholars Alfred
Tennyson, the Poet Laureate, who was an inmate
of its walls from 1816 to 181 8. Augustus Hobart,
more generally known as "Hobart Pacha," who made
for himself a world-wide reputation as a dashing and
resourceful officer while employed in the Turkish naval
service, was also at the school from 1831 until he joined
the Royal navy in 1834.
Born and brought up within ten miles of the coast,
and almost within sound of that murmuring ocean on
which he was eventually destined to play such a promi-
nent part, it is not surprising that a thirst for adven-
ture and enterprise took possession of young Franklin.
Those were stirring times in which the boy's early days
were passed, rendered all the more fascinating to a youth
of imaginative temperament, by the exciting events that
were being enacted in Europe.
We can well picture to ourselves the feverish excite-
ment with which the dark-haired, well-knit youth would
gaze on the ever-heaving billows, and how his bright
eyes would kindle with enthusiasm and pride, as he
called to mind the many brave and heroic deeds that
were being performed by his countrymen on the sea in
various parts of the world ; it is not, therefore, surprising
to learn that the wish to become a sailor, and to be per-
mitted to share in the glorious triumphs of his country-
men, should take possession of the lad. Naturally
quick and impulsive, the desire of becoming a sailor,
was only the forerunner of being one. A story is told
of the boy — and it has been generally accepted as true
— that having employed a holiday in an excursion to
the coast, accompanied by a playmate, he beheld the sea
for the first time in his life. So impressed was the lad
1801.] HIS LONGING FOR THE SEA. 9
•with its sublimity, and the prospects it offered as a field
for future action, that he then and there determined to
be a sailor.
Whether it was really this view of the sea, that he is
supposed to have seen for the first time, or whether it
was a dislike to scholastic life at the Louth Grammar -
School, whatever the cause, it became very evident to his
parents that the boy's mind was fully made up, and
that a sailor's life with all its fascinations and adven-
tures, was the only one that had any charm for him.
Life at school became distasteful ; the pleasures of
home had no attraction for him ; he longed to be away
on that blue sea whose waves dashed their white foam
and spray along the Lincolnshire coast — away assisting
in those thrilling events in which our countrymen were
taking part, and which aroused the enthusiasm of the
loyal and patriotic burghers of Spilsby, as they received
the intelligence of some great and glorious naval victory
— triumphs that paved the way to that maritime supre-
macy which England has since held and maintained.
His ardent longing was soon to be gratified, for,
hoping to cure him of his cravings for a sea-life, his
parents, who had other intentions regarding the boy's
future, being desirous he should become a clergyman,
withdrew him from school, and sent him on board a
small merchant ship, in which he made a trip to Lisbon
and back. The effect, however, of this voyage, the result
of which might perhaps be traced to the kindness of the
captain of the ship, who, it is said, regaled the boy with
oranges and grapes and treated him with much considera-
tion, was the reverse of what his friends had anticipated ;
for, like other illustrious men, like Cook, Nelson, and
Flinders, he returned more than ever charmed with the
10 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1786-
novelty of a sailor's life, and more than ever bent on
adopting the sea as a profession. Life, however, in the
mercantile marine was not to his liking ; it was much
too tame and quiet ; nothing would satisfy the boy but
service in one of His Majesty's ships. In the navy
alone, he thought, he would be afforded the oppor-
tunity of sharing in those glorious deeds which formed
the principal topics of conversation in every town and
village throughout the country, and which, associated
with the names of such men as Howe, St. Vincent, and
Nelson, were adding honour and renown to the English
nation. This was the height of his boyish ambition ; it
was uppermost in his thoughts by day, and present in
his dreams by night.
At length his hopeful anticipations were realised, for
his friends, yielding to his earnest entreaties, succeeded
in obtaining for him an appointment as a first-class
volunteer in H.M.S. Polyphemus, then fitting out at
Chatham. He joined her on the 9th of March 1800.
The Polyphemus was a fine two-decked ship, carrying
sixty-four guns, and was commanded by Captain George
Lumsdaine. On the 1st of May, Rear- Admiral of the
Blue, Robert Kingsmill, hoisted his flag on board, and
on the 1 3th of June she sailed from the Nore, anchoring
in Yarmouth Roads the following day, in the immediate
vicinity of young Franklin's beloved coast of Lincoln-
shire. We can well imagine the pleasure with which the
Lincolnshire boy entered on his new duties, and how he
paced the quarter-deck in all the pomp and pride of a
newly-created naval officer.
On the 1st of August, Captain John Lawford was
appointed to the Polyphemus, and on the 4th his com-
mission was read on the quarter-deck, and he assumed
1801.] JOINS THE "POLYPHEMUS." 11
command. In this ship John Franklin was destined to
share in one of the hardest-fought sea-battles in which
the English navy has ever been engaged.
On the 9th of August the squadron to which the
Polyphemus was attached, consisting of the Monarch,
Romney, Ardent, Isis, Glatton, and Veteran, with one
frigate, two sloops, four bombs, and several gun-vessels,
in all twenty-six ships, sailed from Yarmouth Eoads,
and anchored off Elsinore the 20th of the same month.
The visit of the English fleet to this Danish port was
intended as a demonstration, but no hostile act was
committed. The ships remained at anchor off the
picturesque castle of Kronberg for about three weeks,
and then returned to England. The remainder of the
year was spent by Franklin on board the Polyphemus,
either at the Nore or at Yarmouth. In the early part
of 1 80 1, Rear- Admiral of the Blue, Thomas Graves,
hoisted his flag on board the Polyphemus in succession
to Rear-Admiral Kingsmill.
In consequence of the threatening attitude of the
Northern Powers, necessitating decisive and immediate
action on the part of the British Government, a large
squadron, consisting of eighteen line-of -battle ships, in-
cluding the Polyphemus, with several frigates, corvettes,
sloops, brigs, bombs, and fire-ships, assembled at Yar-
mouth under the command of Sir Hyde Parker, whose
flag was flying on board the ninety -eight- gun ship
London, with Vice-Admiral Lord Nelson as his second
in command in the seventy-four-gun ship Elephant.
This large force left Yarmouth Roads on the 12th of
March 1 80 1, and passing the batteries at Elsinore with
but little effective opposition, although a hot fire was
opened on the ships as they sailed by, came to an anchor
12 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1736-
off the island of Hven on the 30th March, about six
miles from Copenhagen.
On the 1st of April a division of the fleet under the
immediate command of Lord Nelson, and to which the
Polypliemus was attached, got under weigh and moved
to an anchorage in seven and a half fathoms, to the south-
ward of a shoal called the Middel Grund, and only about
a couple of miles from the main defences of the capital.
The navigation among the numerous shoals off Copen-
hagen is at all times exceedingly difficult and intricate,
and it was rendered all the more so on this occasion,
from the fact that the Danes had caused all the buoys
and beacons, that usually marked the channels, to be
removed.
It is not my object, or intention, to give a detailed
account of the great battle that was fought on the
ensuing day, and which Nelson himself characterises as
" the greatest victory he ever gained " x — the " most hard-
fought battle and the most complete victory that ever
was fought and obtained by the navy of this country ; " 2
suffice it to say that the Polyphemus bore herself
bravely, and took a very prominent part in that day's
glorious but sanguinary engagement.
Young Franklin, ever since he left the grammar-school
at Louth, had been yearning for active service ; he must
have experienced it to his heart's content when the old
Polyphemus, in charge of brave Captain Lawford, in
her appointed station in the line of battle, stood in and
engaged the Danish block-ships, Wagner and Provesteen,
besides receiving a very fair share of attention from
1 Vide Lord Nelson's letter to the Crown Prince of Denmark.
2 See Lord Nelson's letter to the Lord Mayor of London, 21st June
1802.
180].] BATTLE OF COPENHAGEN. 13
the guns of the formidable Tre Kroner battery. Her
loss on this occasion was six killed and twenty - four
wounded, among the former being one of Franklin's
messmates, Mr. James Bell, midshipman. The total
loss of the British during this engagement was 255
killed and 688 wounded; but this does not include those
who were slightly wounded. 1 Rear -Admiral Graves,
whose flag was flying on board the Polyphemus, was
invested with the Order of the Bath as a reward for
his services during the battle.
On the 12th of April the English squadron left
Copenhagen, and passing through the tortuous and
shallow channel in the Sound, known as the Drogden,
entered the Baltic. In order to effect this passage,
the heavy-draft vessels had to be considerably lightened,
the majority of them had consequently to transfer their
guns temporarily into merchant ships, while special
1 The following is an extract from the official log of the Poly-
phemus for the 2nd of April 1801: —
"At 10.30 A.M. the division weighed per signal, the Edgar leading,
the van consisting of Edgar, Elephant, Monarch, Ardent, Glutton,
Defiance, Isis, Polyphemus, Bellona, Russell, and Ganges. At
10.45 tue Danes opened fire upon our leading ships, which was
returned as they lead in. "We lead in at 11.20. "We anchored
by the stern abreast of two of the enemy's ships moored in the
channel ; the Isis next ahead of us. The force that engaged us was
two ships, one of 74, the other 64 guns. At half-past eleven the action
became general, and a continual fire was kept up between us and the
enemy's ships and batteries. At noon a very heavy and constant
fire was kept up between us and the enemy, and this was continued
without any intermission until 45 minutes past 2, when the 74 abreast
of us ceased firing ; but not being able to discern she had struck, our
fire was kept up 15 minutes longer ; then we could perceive their
people making their escape to the shore in boats. We ceased firing,
and boarded both ships and took possession of them. Several others
also taken possession of by the rest of our ships; one blown up in
action, two sunk. Mustered ship's company, and found we had 6
men killed and 24 wounded, and 2 lower-deck guns disabled."
14 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1736-
officers were employed in laying down buoys to mark
the channel and point out the dangers. This, we may
be sure, afforded our young friend valuable experience
in the practical work of his profession ; it may reason-
ably be inferred that it was among the shoals and sand-
banks, and rapid irregular currents of the Baltic, that
Franklin acquired his first lesson in that art of marine
surveying in which he afterwards became so proficient.
On the 13th of April, affairs between Denmark and
England having, at any rate for the time, been amicably
adjusted, young Franklin was discharged from the Poly-
phemus to the Ms for passage to England. After a
quick run home we find him, on the 27th April 1801,
entered on the books of the Investigator as one of six
midshipmen appointed to that ship, which had been
specially brought forward and commissioned for dis-
covery in the Southern Hemisphere. Her commander
was Lieutenant Matthew Flinders, an officer who had
already made a name for himself in the scientific world
as an energetic explorer and a talented and skilful
navigator.
Flinders was appointed as lieutenant in command of
the ship on the 26th January 1801, and on the 16th of
the following month was promoted to the rank of com-
mander. Being related to Franklin, he had, no doubt,
used his influence in getting the boy home and ap-
pointed to his ship.
The Investigator (late Xenophon, an armed ship used
for the purpose of convoying merchant vessels in the
Channel) was an old vessel of about 330 tons burthen,
somewhat of the size and description recommended by
that eminent and successful navigator Captain Cook, as
best adapted for voyages of exploration. She had
1801.] JOINS THE "INVESTIGATOR." 15
been purchased into the Royal Navy some years pre-
viously, and having been newly coppered and thoroughly
equipped, was considered as the most suitable vessel that
could at that time be despatched for the contemplated
exploration of Terra Australis and adjacent seas. She
carried a complement of eighty-three officers and men.
No better selection for the command of the Investi-
gator could have been made, for Captain Flinders, besides
being an officer of great experience, had already achieved
much valuable and important geographical work in Aus-
tralian waters. Matthew Flinders, like his young rela-
tive Franklin, was a Lincolnshire man, born and educated
at the small town of Donington, where his father was in
practice as a surgeon. Living in the immediate vicinity
of the sea, and constantly associating with seafaring men,
it is not to be wondered at that he was soon imbued with
the desire to become a sailor. His earnest entreaties
were complied with, and at the early age of fourteen
he was bound apprentice in the merchant service; join-
ing a ship shortly afterwards, he sailed on a voyage to
the South Seas, where he had the rare treat of beholding
and visiting the lovely islands of the Sandwich and So-
ciety Groups. This trip to the Pacific only served to
whet the appetite of young Flinders for the sea, and to
arouse in him a desire for further exploration and adven-
ture. On his return to England from this first cruise, so
persistent was he in his importunities to become a sailor,
and above all a naval officer, that he succeeded, through
the influence of Admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, in obtaining,
in the early part of 1795, an appointment as midship-
man on board the Reliance. This ship was at the time
fitting out for the purpose of conveying Captain William
Hunter to New South Wales, in succession to Captain
16 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1786.
Phillip as governor of the newly-formed colony. The
Lincolnshire boy was delighted with his appointment,
believing that the Australian station of all others would
offer the best opportunities for the exploration of un-
known regions, and would, therefore, the better enable
him to gratify his cravings for the discovery of new
countries.
Perhaps it will be as well to give in the next chapter
a very brief sketch of the geographical work that had
already been accomplished in the Southern Hemisphere,
prior to the departure from England of the Reliance in
1 795 with young Flinders on board.
CHAPTER II.
EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
1567-1795.
" Ye lonely isles ! on ocean's bound
Ye bloom'd through time's long flight unknown,
Till Cook the untrack'd billow pass'd,
Till he along the surges cast
Philanthrop's connecting zone."
— Helen M. Williams.
Fnosi earliest times there had always been some vague
idea of the existence of a large southern continent in the
immediate neighbourhood of the South Pole, to balance,
as it was believed, the great accumulation of land in the
Northern Hemisphere. Imbued with this idea, the
Spaniards were the first to attempt a practical realisa-
tion of the theory that had been so long held and ac-
cepted. With this object in view, namely, the discovery
of the supposed great southern continent, an expedition
consisting of two ships was despatched from Callao in
Peru in 1567. The command of it was intrusted to the
nephew of the governor, a young soldier named Don
Alvaro Mendafia. After a voyage across the Southern
Ocean, extending over a period of three months, the
welcome report of " Land ahead " was received from
the advanced ship, and in February 1568 the vessels
cast anchor in a large and commodious harbour. It was
17 B
IS LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
not, howevei*, Australia ; after discovering and naming
many islands in the Solomon Group, the expedition
returned to Peru.
In 1595, twenty-seven years after his return from the
voyage above alluded to, Mendana, still bent on dis-
covery, again sailed from Callao in command of a squad-
ron of four small ships. In this voyage the Marquesas
and the Santa Cruz islands were discovered, but they
failed in finding that great southern continent which was
the principal object of their search. This expedition
terminated disastrously. Mendana died, and only one
vessel, on board which was his widow and the pilot
Quiros, succeeded in reaching Manilla in safety.
In 1606 another expedition was despatched from the
port of Callao under the command of Pedro Fernandez de
Quiros, who was Mendana's pilot during his last voyage ;
the second in command was Luis Vaez de Torres. The
expedition consisted of two well-armed vessels and a cor-
vette. On the 30th April 1606, land was sighted, and so
extensive did it appear, that the explorers had no doubt
it was the great Australian continent of which they were
in search. The discovery was hailed with joyous accla-
mations, and the name of Australia del Espiritu Santo
was given to the land. But alas ! it was not what they
hoped and expected ; it was simply the largest island of
the New Hebrides group, which still retains the name
given it by Quiros. After leaving this island, they
encountered heavy weather, during which the ships
separated. Quiros then made sail for South America.
Torres, however, continued the voyage, and in August
sighted the island of New Guinea, and discovered the
strait between that island and the continent of Aus-
tralia which now bears his name. Although this is the
1795.] THE DUTCH DISCOVER AUSTRALIA. 19
first authentic record of the coast of Australia having
been actually sighted, it is quite certain, from old maps
that are still in existence, that the continent of Terra
Australis, as it was then more generally called, had been
sighted by Dutch, and perhaps also by Portuguese, navi-
gators. At the same time that Torres was prosecuting
his discoveries, a small Dutch vessel called the Duyfhen
was, it is reported, sent from Bantam for the purpose
of exploring the coast of New Guinea. It is alleged that
this vessel sailed along the west coast of an extensive
continent (supposed to be in the Gulf of Carpentaria, and
which they thought was New Guinea), to as far as 13°
45' S. latitude. If this be true — and there is no reason
to doubt the accuracy of the captain's statement — the
credit for the discovery of Australia should be awarded
to the commander of the Duyfhen, who actually sighted
and sailed along the coast, four months before Torres
saw the northern part of the continent.
In 1686 a Dutchman named Dirck Hartog of Amster-
dam, in a ship called the Eendragt, outward bound from
Holland to India, sailed along the west coast of Aus-
tralia from 23 to 26|° S. latitude. A record of his dis-
covery, cut with a knife on a plate of tin, was found
in Sharks Bay in 1697, and subsequently in 1801. It
bore the following inscription : — "Anno 1616 the 25th
October arrived here the ship Eendragt of Amsterdam ;
the first merchant Gilles Mibais Van Luyck, Dirck
Hartog of Amsterdam, captain. They sailed from
hence for Bantam the 27th Dec."
One or two other Dutch outward-bound ships sighted
the west coast during the next few years; and in 1622
the Dutch ship Leeuwin sighted the south-west point of
Australia, which fact has been permanently established
20 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
by that headland still bearing the name of Cape Leewin.
In the following year, two ships under command of Jan
Carstens sailed from Am boy n a on a voyage of discovery.
At New Guinea, Carstens with eight of his crew were
treacherously murdered by the natives. The vessels, how-
ever, proceeded on the voyage, and made some discoveries
to the southward ; but the accounts are too vague to
ascertain accurately the exact track of the vessels. In
January 1627, the south coast of Australia was dis-
covered by Pieter Nuyts in the Dutch ship Guide
Zeepaard, and was called by him Nuyt's Land.
The most important Dutch voyages made at about
this time were those of Abel Janz Tasman, who w T as
despatched in 1642, and again in 1644, on voyages of ex-
ploration by the Dutch governor-general of Java, Antony
Van Diemen, " who sent us out to make discoveries."
Tasman sailed from Batavia on his first voyage in August
1642, in the yacht Heemshirk, accompanied by the fly-
boat Zeehaan. In October he reached Mauritius, thence
he steered to the south-east, and on the 24th November
sighted land which proved to be the island now known as
Tasmania, but to which Tasman gave the name of his em-
ployer, Van Diemen. Sailing round the south end of the
island, they eventually came to an anchor in a sheltered
harbour on the east coast, to which they gave the name
of Frederik Hendrik's Bay, a name it still retains.
Here they landed to search for water, wood, and refresh-
ments. Although traces of men were found, and human
voices it was supposed were heard, they did not succeed
in establishing communication with, or even seeing, the
natives. On the 4th December they weighed anchor and
continued their course to the eastward, and on the 13th
sighted the high mountains on the west coast of New
1795.] TASMAN'S VOYAGES. 21
Zealand, in latitude 42° 10' S. Tasman anchored his
ships in a bay at the entrance of the strait separating
the two islands. Here his boat was attacked by the
natives, and several of his men were killed : he named
the bay, in consequence, " Moordenaars " (Murderer's)
Bay; it is now known as Massacre Bay. Tasman
gave the name of Staten Land to this newly-discovered
country, after the States-General of the Netherlands,
imagining it was part of the great southern continent.
Its name was, however, subsequently changed to New
Zealand, by which it is now known. Steering to the
northward, he sailed up the east coast of Australia, but
without sighting it, and returned by the north coast of
New Guinea, arriving at Batavia on the 15th of June
1643. Tasman was again despatched the following year
on a voyage of discovery, but it is much to be regretted
that no accounts of this voyage have ever been made
public. It seems, however, clear from his charts that he
made a careful exploration of the Gulf of Carpentaria,
so named after Carpenter, who was the President of the
Dutch East India Company. Tasman was a bold and
fortunate navigator, but he was also a careful and a
skilful one, as is evidenced by his surveys, which, con-
sidering the somewhat rude appliances that were in use
in those days for determining and fixing positions, are
very fairly accurate.
In 1688, our famous buccaneering navigator, William
Dampier, made a voyage round the world, and anchored
on the north-west coast of Terra Australia Incognita, as
it was then called, in a harbour in the neighbourhood of
King Sound, for the purpose of careening and repairing
his ship, an operation which occupied the crew about two
months. Dampier writes : " New Holland is a very large
22 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
tract of land. It is not yet determined whether it is
an island or a main continent ; but I am certain that
it joins neither to Asia, Africa, nor America."
In 1696, another Dutch captain, named William de
Vlaming, visited the west coast of Australia in the ship
Geelvink, and discovered and named the Swan River. 1
He brought back two live black swans to Batavia with
him, the earliest notice that we have of the existence of
these birds. Whilst exploring along the coast to the
northward, the tin plate with the insci'iption commemo-
rating the discovery of Dirck Hartog in 16 16 (see page
19, ante) was found. This expedition made a thorough
examination of the west coast from the mouth of the
Swan River to the North-West Cape.
Three years afterwards, namely, in 1699, the west
coast was again visited by Captain William Dampier in
H.M.S. Roebuck, who was sent out on a voyage of
discovery by William III. It was, however, barren of
important results, as he simply followed in the footsteps
of those who had preceded him, verifying their work
but making no fresh discoveries.
In spite of the numerous voyages that had been made
to the great southern continent, some of which have
been here briefly alluded to, our knowledge of the coast
of Terra Australis was very incomplete and very limited,
when Captain James Cook sailed on his first voyage
of discovery in 1768. The western coast of Australia
was then known as New Holland ; it had been more
frequently sighted and visited by navigators than any
other part of the continent. The east coast was entirely
unknown. New Guinea to the north, and Van Diemen's
Land to the south, were believed to be portions of one
1 It was named, by de Vlaming, the Black Swan River.
1795.] COOK'S FIRST SOUTH SEA VOYAGE. 23
and the same continent, the latter being supposed to be
a prolongation of the land discovered by Pieter Nuyts to
the southward. Even the Australia del Espiritu Santo
of Quiros was, if in existence, supposed to belong to the
mainland. All was vagueness, uncertainty, and con-
jecture. It remained for our great navigator Cook to lift
the veil of doubt and uncertainty which still enshrouded
the great southern land, and by his ability and energy
to give to his country a continent that in riches and
importance is now second to no empire in the world.
Captain Cook sailed from England in the Endeavour on
the 26th August 1768 ; the principal object of the expedi-
tion which he commanded being a voyage to the South
Sea for the purpose of observing the transit of Venus.
This being accomplished, the Endeavour was ordered to
prosecute discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere, and
make a more accurate examination of the Pacific Ocean.
Cook was accompanied by Sir Joseph Banks, afterwards
President of the Royal Society, a great scholar and an
ardent investigator in the pursuit of science, and by Dr.
Solander, an accomplished botanist and naturalist.
The transit of Yenus having been satisfactorily ob-
served on the 3rd June 1769 at Otaheite, the Endeavour,
after a stay of three months at that island, sailed on the
13th of the following month, and after cruising for a
short time among the islands which were named by
Cook the Society Group, a course was shaped for New
Zealand, which was sighted at daylight on October the
6th. 1 On the 8th the ship dropped anchor in a large bay,
which received the name of Poverty Bay, on account
1 The look-out at the masthead, who reported this land, was a boy
named Nicholas Young ; it was named, after him, by Captain Cook,
Young Nick's Head.
24 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
of the inhospitable, not to say hostile, reception the
expedition met with at the hands of the natives. Some
months were profitably employed in the exploration
of the coast of this little known land, during which
New Zealand was completely circumnavigated, and
found to consist of two large islands ; after much
valuable and important geographical work had been
accomplished, the Endeavour sailed to the westward,
bent on further exploration and research. On the
morning of the 18th of April 1770, land was observed
by the first lieutenant, and was named, after him,
Point Hicks. Thence Captain Cook sailed northwards,
and rounding the south-east point of Australia, which he
called Cape Howe, he anchored in a safe and capacious
bay on the 26th, which was subsequently named Botany
Bay, in consequence of the great variety and richness of
the plants collected there by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander.
Here they remained for ten days, engaged in scientific
pursuits and in endeavouring to conciliate the natives,
many of whom were induced to come down to the ship.
Sailing on the 6th of May, they proceeded to the
northward, discovering and naming Port Jackson, on
the shores of which is now situated the important city
of Sydney, the capital of New South Wales. Moreton
Bay, at the head of which now stands Brisbane, the
capital of Queensland, was also discovered and named.
During this voyage Captain Cook sailed along the
entire eastern coast of Australia, which he named New
South Wales, taking possession of it in the name of His
Majesty King George the Third. Hitherto the En-
deavour had been safely navigated among dangerous
shoals and hidden rocks, and other unknown dangers,
with a surprising immunity from disaster. This exemp
1795.] COOK'S SHIP IN GREAT PERIL. 25
tion from casualties was, however, not to last ; for at
about eleven o'clock on the night of the ioth June 1770,
the ship struck heavily on a rock, and remained im-
movable. The situation was certainly not a pleasant
one, for the loss of the ship meant the possible loss of
all on board, as the chances of saving themselves by
their boats alone, so many thousands of miles from any
place where they could hope to obtain relief and succour,
were very small indeed. Everything was, however, done
that skill and experience could suggest in order to ex-
tricate the ship from her perilous condition, but for
some time without avail, and she continued to beat with
great violence on the rocks upon which she had struck.
By the dim light of the moon that prevailed, they
could see portions of the false keel, and other parts of
the bottom of their good ship, that had been torn and
wrenched off by the sharp, jagged edges of the rocks,
floating around them, and it seemed extremely impro-
bable that she would hold together for another tide.
Fortunately there was but little wind, and as the tide
fell, the ship settled down more quietly in her rocky
cradle. Every effort was then made to lighten her ; six
guns were thrown overboard, as well as a quantity of
iron and stone ballast and other stores, and the water
was also started. When daylight broke, they found the
ship was making a considerable amount of water, which
the pumps were unable to control. Their great fear
now was that as the tide rose, the ship might float off,
and immediately sink in deeper water ; but, to their great
surprise, and no less gratification, they found, when she
floated, that not only were their fears groundless, but
also that the pumps gained considerably on the leak. In
order to obtain this advantage, however, the men had to
26 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
remain unceasingly at work, a duty which entailed hard
and incessant labour. Being unable to get at the leak
from the inside of the ship, and being naturally desirous
of ascertaining its extent, and, if possible, taking such
steps to prevent the great inflow of water, which caused -
such harassing and severe physical exertions on the part
of the crew, Captain Cook, at the suggestion, he tells
us, of Mr. Markhouse, one of the midshipmen of the ship,
ordered a sail to be thrummed, 1 and, thus prepared,
hauled under the bottom of the ship. The suction
of the water at the leak dragged the sail into the
injured part, and thus materially reduced, to their no
small comfort and joy, the amount of water that found
its way into the Endeavour. The ship was then brought
in close to the land, and anchored in a snug little har-
bour at the mouth of a river, which received the name
of Endeavour River, and here she was thoroughly
overhauled and repaired. The point of land in the
immediate vicinity of the scene of the disaster was
called Point Tribulation, to commemorate the unfortu-
nate event. It was during the time the ship was in
Endeavour River that kangaroos were first seen, killed,
and eaten. The repairs being effected, a start was
once more made; and sailing through Torres Strait,
though not without experiencing many dangers and no
few difficulties, Cook returned to England, passing the
Lizard on the ioth June 177 1, thus completing his first
voyage of discovery in the South Seas, during which time
he circumnavigated New Zealand, sailed along the entire
east coast of Australia, and performed altogether one of
the most remarkable voyages on record.
1 A sail is thrummed by stitching yarns and oakum of the neces-
sary dimensions on to the sail.
1795.] COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 27
It was not likely that so experienced and skilful a
navigator as Captain Cock would be allowed to remain
for any length of time inactive and unemployed. Im-
mediately on his arrival in England he was promoted to
the rank of commander, and in the following year was
appointed to the command of an expedition, that had for
its object the h'nal determination of the existence, or
otherwise, of a southern continent. He was also directed
to circumnavigate the globe in as high a southern latitude
as possible. The expedition consisted of two vessels,
the Resolution, under the immediate command of Captain
Cook, and the Adventure, commanded by Captain Furneaux.
The ships left Plymouth on the 13th July 1772, and after
touching at the Cape of Good Hope, crossed the Antarctic
Circle, and reached the latitude of 67° 15' S., when their
further progress to the southward was effectually im-
peded by ice. After vain endeavours to penetrate to a
higher latitude, during which time the ships got sepa-
rated, Captain Cook sailed for New Zealand, which he
reached on the 25th March 1773, after having been at
sea for 117 consecutive days, during which time he
sailed over 10,000 miles without seeing land. Two
months later the Adventure was fallen in with at an
appointed rendezvous, after a separation of fourteen
weeks. During that time Captain Furneaux had suc-
ceeded in exploring some portions of Van Diemen's
Land. New Zealand was left on the 7th of June, after
various animals, such as sheep, pigs, goats, cocks and
hens, and even a couple of geese, of each sex, had been
landed, with the view of eventually stocking tho country
with these useful domestic animals, whilst potatoes, car-
rots, onions, parsnips, cabbage, beans, turnips and other
edible vegetables were planted. On the 17th of August
28 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
the ships arrived at Otaheite, where much-needed rest
and refreshment were obtained by the crews. After
visiting several islands in the Society and other groups,
the expedition again directed its course towards New
Zealand, which was sighted on the 21st of October;
shortly afterwards they experienced a furious storm,
during which the ships were again separated, never to
meet again during the remainder of the voyage.
Captain Cook sailed from New Zealand on the 26th
of November, and proceeded to the southward to renew
his search for the great southern continent ; but he was
again baffled by ice, and after reaching the 7 1 st degree
of south latitude, he relinquished all further attempts,
and pursued a northerly course. Easter Island was
reached on the nth March 1774, and the Marquesas
during the early part of the following month. On April
22nd the Resolution anchored at Otaheite, more for the
purpose of determining the rate of the chronometers
than for any other reason, although they gladly availed
themselves of the opportunity to furnish the ship with
a much-needed supply of fresh provisions, which were,
it is needless to add, highly appreciated after their long
sea-cruise. After a stay of about four weeks, Captain
Cook took his departure from Otaheite, and after visiting
some of the adjacent islands sailed to the westward, and
passing through the New Hebrides Group (so named by
him), and visiting and naming several of the islands in
it, he discovered and named the large island of New
Caledonia, as also Norfolk Island, eventually anchoring
in Queen Charlotte Sound, New Zealand, on the 18th
of October. Leaving New Zealand on the 10th of the
following month, Captain Cook rounded Cape Horn in
December, and after making another attempt to reach
1795.] COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 29
a high southern latitude, during which time he dis-
covered and named New Georgia, he sailed for England,
and finally anchored his ship at Spithead on the 30th
July 1775, a fter an absence of a little over three years.
His consort, the Adventtire, had reached England on
the 14th July the previous year.
It is needless to allude here to the great skill, the
remarkable energy, and the perseverance that were
displayed by our great navigator during this wonderful
voyage, for they are matters of history ; immediately on
his arrival in England he was advanced to the rank of
post-captain and appointed a captain of Greenwich Hos-
pital ; he was shortly after elected a Fellow of the Royal
Society, and presented with the Copley gold medal of that
institution.
Captain Cook, however, was not permitted to enjoy
his comfortable appointment at Greenwich for any
length of time, for on the 1 oth February 1776 he was
selected for, and appointed to, the command of an expe-
dition that had for its primary object the discovery of
a north east passage by Bering's Strait, a project the
successful execution of which had so long baffled the
boldness and skill of many enterprising navigators.
The vessels selected for this important service were
the Resolution and the Discovery. Captain Cook was
appointed to the command of his old ship, while the
command of the Discovery was intrusted to Captain
Charles Clerke.
Captain Cook sailed from England on the 12th of
July 1776, and calling at the Cape of Good Hope in
November, proceeded on his voyage to the south-east,
spending two or three days, including Christmas, at
Kerguelen Island, where they found a record in a
30 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
bottle, which clearly proved they were not the first
people, as they had supposed, who had landed on this
sterile and inhospitable island. Van Diemen's Land
was reached on the 26th January 1777, and the neces-
sary supplies of wood and water obtained. The next
stage was to their old anchorage in Queen Charlotte's
Sound in New Zealand ; thence the expedition proceeded
to the Friendly Islands and Otaheite, at all of winch
places officers and men were regaled with fresh pro-
visions, while a considerable stock was laid in for their
forthcoming cruise. The Society Islands were left on
the 2nd of December, and three weeks after, the Equator
was crossed. The Sandwich Islands were reached and
named towards the end of January 1778. Continuing
their course northwards, the ships sighted the coast of
New Albion on the 7th of March, and on the 29th of
the same month anchored off Vancouver Island, in a
large inlet which Cook named King George's Sound, but
which they subsequently found was called Nootka by
the natives. The ships sailed again on the 26th of
April, and, in spite of tempestuous weather, slowly but
surely worked their way in a northerly direction. On
May 12th the expedition anchored in a large bay on
the south coast of Alaska, which received the name
of Prince William Sound. The island of Oonalaska
was reached on the 27th of June, and, after a stay of
a few days, the ships resumed their voyage northwards.
On the 9th of July, Cape Prince of Wales was named,
and on the following day the expedition had the satisfac-
tion of passing through Bering's Strait. Steering first
to the east and then due north, the latitude of 70 33'
was reached on the 17th July, when, after proceeding
ten miles farther in a northerly direction, their prog-
1795.] CAPTAIN COOK'S DEATH. 31
ress was stopped by a large field of ice, so compact as
to defy all efforts at penetration. Captain Cook perse-
vered in his endeavours to penetrate the pack in several
different directions until the 29th July, but always with-
out success, for every day the ice seemed to increase and
offer a more effective obstacle to advancement. Think-
ing, therefore, that the season was too far advanced, he
relinquished further attempts to explore in a northerly
direction for that year, and returned to the southward,
collecting much valuable geographical information on the
way. On the 30th of November, the island of Owlryhee
(Hawai) was discovered, and seven weeks were spent in
sailing round and exploring its coast. On the 17th of
January 1779 the two ships came to an anchor in Kara-
kakooa Bay, and here Captain Cook determined to refit
his ships and refresh his men, preparatory to making
another voyage to Bering's Strait. The details of the
lamentable death of our great navigator in this harbour,
on the 14th of the following month, are so well known
that further allusion to it here is rendered unnecessary.
The voyages and discoveries of Captain Cook bear so
intimately on the work of Sir John Franklin in both
hemispheres, that I have touched upon them somewhat
more in detail than I had intended. It is only neces-
sary to add, that after the irreparable loss sustained by
the death of their commander, the two ships, under the
command of Captain Clerke, left the Sandwich Islands
in prosecution of the main object of the expedition on the
1 5 th March. On the 28th of the following month the
vessels anchored off Petropaulowski in Kamchatka, where
the officers and men were most cordially received and
hospitably entertained by the Russian authorities, who
provided them with every necessary that the place could
32 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1567-
supply, even at the cost of much inconvenience and
privation to themselves.
Leaving Petropaulowski on the 13 th June, the
expedition sailed through Bering's Strait on the 5th of
July, but their further progress was arrested two days
afterwards by a solid barrier of ice. They continued to
search for a passage until the 27th, but, in spite of all
efforts, they were unable to penetrate to within ten miles
of the latitude reached by them the previous year under
Captain Cook. Realising the impracticability, under the
existing conditions of the ice, of accomplishing the much
wished- for passage that season, they reluctantly returned
to the southward, when, after achieving some useful
geographical work in the Pacific, the ships sailed for
England, where they arrived in October, after an absence
of four years two months and twenty-two clays.
Other navigators, at different times, visited the coast
of Terra Australis, and even made the passage through
Torres Strait ; but as the amount of exploration and
the work accomplished by them were, for the most
part, comparatively unimportant, it is unnecessary to
make any further reference to them here. One of the
chief and most important results leading from the
discoveries of Captain Cook, was the formation of a
colony in New South Wales. On the 19th of January
1788, nine years after the death of the great navigator,
Captain Arthur Phillip, of the Royal Navy, arrived at
Botany Bay in H.M. brig Supply, and established the
first settlement in Australia. He was soon followed by
Captain Hunter in the Syrius, with six transports and
three store-ships. The settlement was shortly afterwards
removed to Port Jackson, a much better harbour situated
about ten miles to the northward, where the present
1795.] FIRST AUSTRALIAN COLONY. 33
town of Sydney was founded, and Captain Phillip thus
became the first Governor of the colony of New South
Wales.
In the year 1795, Captain William Hunter was
appointed to relieve Captain Phillip in the government
of the new colony, and sailed from England in the
Reliance, taking with him, as was mentioned in the
preceding chapter, young Matthew Flinders as one of
his midshipmen.
CHAPTER III.
FLINDERS AND BASS— EXAMINATION OF THE
SEA-BOARD OF AUSTRALIA.
1795-1803.
" As when to those who saile
Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past
Mozambie, off at sea, north-east winds blow
Sabean odours from the spicie shore of
Arabie the blest." — Paradise Lost.
On the arrival of the Reliance at Sydney Cove, young
Flinders found that the existing knowledge of the coast
in the vicinity of Port Jackson was exceedingly limited.
No detailed survey had been attempted, nor was there
even a correct delineation of the coast-line, except in the
case of those discoveries that had been published in Cap-
tain Cook's general chart. So keen an interest did this
young and enthusiastic midshipman take in the work of
geographical research that he at once determined to use
his utmost exertions in striving to supply the deficiency.
Fortunately there was on board the Reliance a kindred
spirit in the person of Mr. George Bass, the assistant-
surgeon, whose enthusiasm for the promotion of geo-
graphical discovery was equal to, if not greater than,
that of his younger friend. These two officers, although,
incredible to relate, they met with no encouragement
from their superiors, set to work with resolution and
34
1795.] SURVEY BY FLINDERS AND BASS. 35
pei'seve ranee, fully determined, to the utmost of their
power and ability, to complete the examination of the
coast of New South Wales so far as the limited means
at their disposal would admit, and whenever, be it noted,
they could be spared from their own particular duties
on board the Reliance.
The success attending the praiseworthy attempts of
these young officers to throw light on the darkness that
surrounded this hitherto unexplored and almost unknown
coast, was commensurate with the energy and resolution
displayed. By their own unaided efforts, they equipped
a small boat only eight feet in length, and not inappro-
priately named the Tom Thumb, and with a crew con-
sisting of themselves and one boy, they sailed from Port
Jackson on their first surveying expedition. Thus the
somewhat anomalous picture is presented to us, of a
young midshipman and an assistant- surgeon in the navy,
undertaking to execute what must be considered as a
very important survey of the hitherto practically un-
known coast of Australia, entirely on their own resources,
unaided and unassisted by those who were better able,
and perhaps, from their experience, better qualified to
undertake the service and bring it to a successful issue.
The result of their first attempt was the exploration, for
a considerable distance, of George's River, which falls
into Botany Bay, and an extension of the knowledge of
this river to some twenty miles beyond Captain Hunter's
previous survey. This was a work of some importance,
for it led to the foundation of a new settlement, which
was called Bank's Town, after Sir Joseph Banks, the
companion of Cook in his first voyage, and the learned
President of the Royal Society.
Their second venture was of a more extended character
36 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
than the first, although their means were just as limited,
for it was carried out, as before, in the little Tom Thumb.
Their objective on this occasion was the exploration of
a large river that emptied itself into the sea some miles
to the southward of Botany Bay, but of the existence of
which there was no indication on the chart of Captain
Cook. Sailing from Port Jackson on the 5th March 1795,
a thorough and careful examination of the coast was
effected by these young officers, until a heavy gale of
wind springing up from the southward, not only neces-
sitated a temporary discontinuance of their work, but
threatened to overwhelm their tiny boat. The dangers
to which our young explorers were thus exposed were
materially increased by the intense darkness of the
night, the strong and irregular currents that prevailed,
and their ignorance of any sheltered bay or harbour in
their vicinity. During all this long, anxious night,
Flinders remained at the steer oar, and it was only by
his constant watchfulness and skill, that the little craft
did not broach to and capsize. Bass attended the sheet,
an important duty, on the vigilant execution of which
their lives depended, whilst the boy was kept fully em-
ployed baling out the water that was constantly breaking
into the boat. At length, when their strength was almost
exhausted, breakers were discovered ahead ; the mast and
sail were quickly struck, and bending valiantly to the
oars, they succeeded in carrying their little craft into
smooth water under the lee of an extensive reef, and
thus reached comparative safety, after being for some
hours in a very perilous and critical position. This was
only one of the numerous dangers and perils, voluntarily
faced in the cause of geographical research by our ardent
and brave explorers. The bay in which they so miracu-
1303.] BASS'S STRAIT DISCOVERED. 37
lously procured shelter was named by them Providential
Cove, in remembrance of their deliverance on this occa-
sion — a name it still bears.
Three years later Dr. Bass, in an open whale-boat
with a crew only of six seamen, explored over 600 miles
of coast-line to the southward of Port Jackson, 300 miles
of which were entirely new. In his small and frail
craft, exposed during the greater part of the time to
very tempestuous weather, accompanied, as is invariably
the case in those latitudes, by a high and raging sea,
this energetic officer persevered until he discovered the
strait separating Australia from Tasmania, and which
now, very properly, bears his name. Although he ouly
carried with him pi-ovisions to last for an anticipated
absence of six weeks, he was able, with the assistance
of petrels, fish, geese, and black swans that he succeeded
in obtaining, and also by parsimonious economy and
abstinence, to prolong his voyage to eleven weeks ! The
farthest point on the mainland reached by him was
Western Port. This voyage, in a small open boat, was
a feat that for fearlessness and determination has
scarcely been equalled in the annals of geography or
maritime enterprise.
During the period that Dr. Bass was absent on this
expedition, his young friend Flinders was not idle ; for,
having first obtained permission from Governor Hunter,
he embarked on board the schooner Francis, and sailed
in her on the 1st February 1798 to Preservation Island,
one of the Furneaux group. This vessel, it should be
observed, had been despatched for the purpose of saving
the cargo, or some portion of it, of a vessel that had
recently been wrecked there, as well as with the object
of bringing back the few men who had been left in
38 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
cliarge of the wreckage. During this cruise young
Flinders did excellent work in fixing the positions of
various parts of the coast, and in obtaining valuable and
important information on many points relative to the
places visited, their inhabitants, natural history, geo-
logical formation, &c. He returned to Port Jackson on
the 9th of March. Writing of the Furneaux Islands,
and referring to the noise made by the thousands of
seals that infest the group, Flinders says : —
" Those who have seen a farm-yard, well stocked with pigs,
calves, sheep, oxen, and with two or three litters of puppies
with their mothers in it, and have heard them all in tumult
together, may form a good idea of the confused noise of the
seals at Cone Point. The sailors killed as many of these
harmless and not unamiable creatures, as they were able to
skin during the time necessary for me to take the requisite
angles, and we then left the poor affrighted multitude to
recover from the effects of our inauspicious visit."
At length, after earnest and repeated solicitations, the
zeal and perseverance of Bass and Flinders received
some official notice. A small sloop of twenty-five tons,
named the Norfolk, was placed by the Governor of New
South Wales at their disposal, for the purpose of com-
pleting the survey and exploration of Bass's Strait.
They sailed from Port Jackson on the 7 th October
1798, with a crew consisting of eight volunteers, and
with provisions to last for a contemplated absence of
twelve weeks. During this cruise Twofold Bay was
carefully examined, and the northern coast of Tasmania
was thoroughly exploi'ed, besides many adjacent islets,
the habitat of seals and albatrosses innumerable. In-
deed, on some of the islands on which they landed, the
explorers had to fight their way up the cliffs through
1803.] COAST OF TASMANIA SURVEYED. 39
crowded masses of seals, who indignantly resented the
strange, and, to them, unwarrantable intrusion. On
reaching the summit, they were frequently compelled
to use their clubs and staves in order to clear a way
through the albatrosses, which they found sitting on
their nests in such large numbers as to literally cover
the surface of the ground. All the different positions
of the various prominent head-lands, capes, &c, were
accurately fixed by our young explorers by careful astro-
nomical observations, and the fact of the insularity of
Tasmania, previously reported by Dr. Bass, was now
actually verified by the Norfolk sailing through Bass's
Strait. This Strait, it may be noted, was named at the
special request of young Flinders, after his companion
and colleague. The Norfolk returned to Port Jackson
on the nth January 1799.
Flinders was next engaged on an exploring expedition
to the northward, when Moreton and Harvey's Bays,
discovered and named by Captain Cook, were thoroughly
examined. He returned to England in the Reliance in
1 800, after an absence of over five years, during which
time he had, by sheer industry and perseverance, quali-
fied himself as a skilful and expert sailor, and had gained
the reputation of being an experienced and accomplished
navigator.
On the arrival of the ship in England, the charts
containing all the new surveys and discoveries were
published, and a scheme was submitted for completing
the examination of the coast of Australia. This plan
met with the cordial support of Sir Joseph Banks, the
President of the Royal Society, and other men interested
in the science of geography, who were all strongly im-
pressed with the importance and necessity of completing
40 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1801.
the work. Backed by suck eminent authorities, it is not
surprising to find that the scheme was favourably received
by, and met with the hearty approval of, Lord Spencer,
the First Lord of the Admiralty, who having received the
sanction of His Majesty, gave the necessary directions
that an expedition, as proposed, should be despatched.
Mr. Flinders was, as a matter of course, selected as the
most fitting person to command it. The Investigator,
as already related in a previous chapter, was the ship
chosen for this important service, and everything being
ready, she sailed from Spithead on the 18th of July
1 80 1. In addition to her complement of eighty-three
officers and men, she had on board an astronomer, 1 a
naturalist, a landscape painter, 2 as well as a natural
history painter, a gardener, and a miner.
The instructions that Captain Flinders received were
to make as complete an examination as was possible of
the coast of New Holland, as Australia was then called.
The south coast was in the first place to be thoroughly
explored between King George's Sound and Bass's
Strait, and diligent search was to be made for any
" creek or opening likely to lead to an inland sea or
strait," 3
Sydney Cove (on the shore of which our first Aus-
tralian colonists had been established for about thirteen
years) was selected as the head-quarters of the expe-
dition, and here they were ordered to refit, and provide
1 Mr. Crosley, but this gentleman was subsequently relieved by
Mr. Inman, who was the Professor of Mathematics and Nautical
Science at the Royal Naval College at Portsmouth for many years.
2 This was the eminent painter "William "Westall, who afterwards
became an Associate of the Royal Academy.
3 Extract from the instructions received by Captain Flinders from
the Admiralty.
CAPTAIX FLINDE1IS.
1801.] FRANKLIN UNDER CAPTAIN FLINDERS. 43
themselves with all the necessary supplies procurable.
On the completion of the survey of the south coast,
Captain Flinders was directed to turn his attention to
the exploration of the north-west coast of New Holland,
where valuable harbours, it was thought probable, might
be discovered. He was then ordered to examine the
coast to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and make an exhaus-
tive survey of Torres Strait. This being accomplished,
he was instructed to carefully examine the east coast,
with permission to visit the Fiji, and other islands
situated in the South Sea.
It will thus be seen that the work he was required to
undertake, was of a gigantic and elaborate nature, for
it was, in reality, an examination of the entire sea-board
of Australia that he was expected and ordered to carry
out • he was, it may be observed, significantly enjoined
not to return to England until this was satisfactorily
accomplished !
With such an enthusiast in the cause of geographical
science for his captain, it is not surprising to find that
young Franklin took kindly to his new duties, and
speedily gave practical evidence of his skill as a sailor
and his ability as a surveyor. Home associations were
undoubtedly a bond of mutual sympathy and connection
between the man and the boy, and the friendly inter-
course that, in consequence, existed between the captain
and the midshipman must have been greatly to the
advantage of the latter, and, doubtless, aided to mould
the mind and guide the thoughts of the younger to
those scientific pursuits which ultimately so distinguished
him. It is very reasonable for us to infer that it was,
in all probability, in exploring miles of practically un-
known coast-line, and in surveying hitherto undiscovered
44 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
bays, reefs, and islands in the Southern Hemisphere,
that John Franklin's mind became imbued with that
ardent love of geographical research, which formed such
a marked and prominent feature in his future profes-
sional career. Flinders was the example, and the Aus-
tralian exploration was the school, that created one of
our greatest Arctic navigators, and one of the most
eminent geogi'aphers of his day.
Before the Investigator had been many days at sea,
palpable evidence was afforded of her general unsea-
worthiness, for before even Madeira was reached, she
was making as much as three, afterwards increasing to
five, inches of water per hour, and her general unsuita-
bility as an exploring ship, in a part of the world where
boisterous weather was sure to be experienced, was only
too plain. Captain Flinders, ever loyal to his superiors,
endeavours to apologise for the unseaworthy state and
general unfit condition of his ship, and explains as an
excuse for her selection and adoption for the work on
which she was to be employed, that " the exigencies of
the navy were such, at that time, that he was given to
understand that no better ship could he spared from the
service ; and his anxiety to complete the investigation of
the coasts of Terra Austral is did not admit of refusing the
one offered." It may be here remarked that the distinct
and appropriate appellation of Australia was given to
the great south land at the suggestion, and on the re-
commendation, of Captain Flinders. Referring to the
name by which it was then known, namely, Terra Aus-
tralis, he writes, in a footnote at page 3 of the introduc-
tion to his valuable and interesting work entitled " A
Voyage to Terra Australis," " Had I permitted myself
any innovation upon the original term, it would have
1803.] SURVEY OF SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 45
been to convert it into Australia, as being more agreeable
to the ear, and an assimilation to the names of the other
great portions of the earthy
After touching at the Cape of Good Hope, the Inves-
tigator anchored in King George's Sound, in Western
Australia, on the 8th of December. Here they remained
for four weeks, a period that was profitably employed in
refitting the rigging and sails and repairing the ship
generally, also in examining and surveying the Sound.
Thence Flinders sailed along the south shore of Australia,
hitherto known as Nuyt's Land, from the Dutch skipper
who first discovered it, and carefully examined the coast
of what is now called the Great Australian Bight. The
running survey that was carried out on this occasion was
so complete and so accurate, that the coast-line, as de-
lineated by Captain Flinders, remains unaltered on the
charts of the present day. The land along this coast
was fringed by a range of high cliffs, estimated at from
four to six hundred feet in height, and so uniform was
the appearance of the shore in the neighbourhood, that
it was found to be almost impossible to define, and name,
any particular points, or capes, in consequence of the
similarity of one headland to another. Captain Flinders
was under the impression that this bank, or fringe, of
cliffs, which extends for a distance of about 500 miles,
was, in all probability, the exterior line of a vast coral
reef, which, from a gradual subsidence, or perhaps by
some sudden convulsion of Nature, had attained its pre-
sent position and height above the surface of the sea.
The examination of this interesting coast afforded much
new and valuable information.
We may take it for granted that young Franklin all
this time, was not only rapidly acquiring valuable expe-
46 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
rience in, arid a practical knowledge of his professional
duties, but that he was also able to afford substantial
assistance in the surveying work that was being carried
out. Indeed, we may be assured that this was the case,
for we find his name associated with a couple of islands
belonging to the St. Francis group, situated off the
coast of what is now known as South Australia, and
which Flinders named the Fr-anklin Isles, after his
young protege. It must have been a proud day for our
Lincolnshire midshipman when he was informed that
his name was thus, for the first time, to be immortal-
ised as a discoverer and explorer.
Another island in Spencer Gulf was named Spilsby
Island, presumably after the home and birthplace of
Franklin ; whilst a large bight on the coast was called
Louth Bay, and two low islands in the same locality
were called Louth Islands, after the town in Lincoln-
shire in which our young friend received the rudiments
of his education. We may, I think, safely infer, from
the nomenclature thus conferred on these places, that
Franklin was, in some way, instrumental in their dis-
covery, or subsequent examination. The harbour in
Spencer's Gulf, which formed the most interesting part
of the discovery, received the appellation of Port Lin-
coln, in honour of the county from which both Flinders
and Franklin hailed.
During this cruise a sad affair occurred through the
accidental capsizing of one of the Investigator 's boats,
resulting in the loss of Mr. Thistle (master), Mr. Taylor
(midshipman), and six men forming the crew of the
cutter. This disaster cast a deep gloom over the ship
for some days, while it deprived Franklin, and the
other members of the midshipmen's berth, of a mess-
1803.] A SAD DISASTER. 47
mate and companion, a young officer of great promise,
one of their immediate circle. Mr. Thistle, the master,
whose loss they had to mourn, was a most worthy man
and deserving officer. He had accompanied Dr. Bass as
one of the six men comprising the crew of his whale-
boat during his wonderful boat-journey, 1 and he had
subsequently formed one of the crew of the Norfolk,
when that vessel was despatched, under Flinders and
Bass, for the exploration of Bass's Strait. For his ex-
cellent behaviour, and the ability, intelligence, and zeal
displayed by him on those occasions, he was promoted to
a midshipman, and was afterwards advanced to the rank
of master's-mate. He was subsequently promoted to
master, and in that capacity was appointed to the In-
vestigator, at the earnest request and recommendation of
Captain Flinders.
On the afternoon of April 8th, intense excitement
was caused on board the Investigator by the somewhat
unusual, and certainly unexpected, report of a vessel
being in sight.
What ship could possibly be sailing about in those
unfrequented and hitherto unknown waters ? Was she
a friend, or could she possibly be a' foe ? These were
questions hurriedly asked, but not easily answered. In
anticipation of the latter eventuality, the drum beat to
quarters, and the Investigator was, as expeditiously as
possible, cleared for action, and prepared to meet an
enemy. Guns that had been dismounted and struck
below, for convenience in carrying out the special and
eminently peaceful service on which the ship was em-
ployed, were quickly brought on deck; the rust was
hurriedly scraped from them, and they were mounted in
i See page 37.
48 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
their proper ports, and made as serviceable and efficient
as the short time at their disposal admitted. Fortu-
nately, however, the fighting capacity of the ship and
the courage and bellicose propensities of her officers and
crew, were not destined to be put to the proof, for the
stranger, that had caused all this excitement, turned
out to be the French ship Le Geograplie, employed, like
themselves, on a peaceful voyage of discovery. She
was commanded by Captain Nicholas Baudin, who, with
another ship, Le Kaiuraliste, also under his orders, had
been recently engaged in examining the south and east
coasts of Van Diemen's Land. Having accidentally
separated from his consort, Captain Baudin was then
employed in exploring along the south coast of Australia.
After friendly visits had been exchanged, and before
he had fully realised, or even ascertained, the identity
of Captain Flinders, the French commander pro-
ceeded to make some adverse criticisms on an English
chart of Tasmania published in 1S00, that was in his
possession. He was overwhelmed with confusion when
he found that Captain Flinders, to whom his criticisms
were addressed, was the author of the maligned chart,
and was therefore responsible for its accuracy or other-
wise ! The ships parted company on the following day,
the Investigator resuming her examination of the coast
to the south-east, while the Frenchman pursued his in-
vestigations in a westerly direction. The place of meet-
ing between the two ships was subsequently called
Encounter Bay, to commemorate the event.
The next important piece of work connected with the
voyage was the supposed discovery of Port Phillip,
which was surveyed and examined with great care.
Captain Flinders was so impressed with its admirable
1803.] «' INVESTIGATOR " AT SYDNEY. 49
situation and the importance of his discovery, that he
felt confident it would not be long before it would be
selected as a site for a future settlement. His astonish-
ment would indeed be great if he could now see the
rich and flourishing city of Melbourne, which has sprung
up on the shores of that inlet he was the first to explore.
It was only after his arrival at Port Jackson, that he
received the somewhat mortifying piece of intelligence,
that his discovery had been already anticipated by Lieu-
tenant John Murray, who, ten weeks before, had dis-
covered and named this magnificent harbour.
On the 9th of May 1802, ten months after her depar-
ture from England, the Investigator anchored in Sydney
Cove, Port Jackson. All on board were in the enjoy-
ment of perfect health, and this satisfactory state of
affairs in connection with the sanitary condition of the
ship, was largely due to the constant and unremitting
attention that was paid to cleanliness, a good and
nourishing diet, and a free and proper circulation of
air between decks. Captain Flinders was one of those
officers who had the happy knack of combining strict
discipline, with a kindly consideration for the happiness
and comfort of those under his command.
There was, of course, much to be done on their arrival
at Port Jackson. The ship had to be thoroughly over-
hauled and refitted ; new spars and sails had to be made,
and old ones repaired ; water had to be obtained, and
provisions and other stores purchased. While these
necessaiy duties were being performed, the scientific
work connected with the expedition was not neglected.
An observatory was set up on shore, to which all the
chronometers were removed, and where all the necessary
Batronomical observations were taken. This observatory
D
50 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
was placed under the charge of Mr. Samuel Flinders, 1
the second lieutenant, and young Franklin was appointed
as his assistant. Here he was kept closely at work,
and was probably afforded but few opportunities of
rambling about and exploring on his own account, the
interesting country in the vicinity of the newly-found
colony of Sydney.
In consequence of the particular occupation on which
he was employed at this time, Franklin jokingly re-
ceived from the Governor of New South Wales the
appellation of " Tycho Brahe," after the eminent Danish
astronomer.
In two and a half months' time, the Investigator was
again ready to resume her work of exploration along
the coast of Terra Australis ; but in order to carry out
this important service in a more thorough manner, a
brig called the Lady Nelson, of light draft, and com-
manded by Lieutenant John Murray, was, at the express
wish of Captain Flinders, attached to his command, with
directions to co-operate and assist in the exploration.
The two vessels sailed in company from Port Jackson
on the 22nd July 1S02, and steei'ing in a northerly
direction, made an exhaustive examination of the eastern
coast, in accordance with the instructions received from
the Admiralty. During this trip, Port Bowen was dis-
covered and named. Whilst carrying out this service,
officers and men were landed at every convenient oppor-
tunity, and as much information of the coast as could
be gathered was obtained.
1 Samuel Flinders was a brother of the captain's. He was appointed
to the Investigator on the 20th November 1800, and appears on her
books as having joined as an A.B. from the Atalante on 28th February
1801. He was rated midshipman the same day, and was promoted
to a lieutenant a week after, namely, on the 6th March i8or.
1803.] GULF OF CARPENTARIA SURVEYED. 51
The Lady Nelson, however, instead of being of assist-
ance, as was anticipated, was found to be such an indif-
ferent sailer, and was so leewardly, that she was sent
back to Sydney in October, for she proved herself to
be, as Captain Flinders reports, " more a burthen than
an assistant."
After examining various portions of the Great Barrier
Reef, the Investigator sailed round the north-east point
of Australia and entered the Gulf of Carpentaria. The
shores of this extensive gulf were minutely examined,
and the whole of its coast-line was delineated on the
chart. It was while cruising in this neighbourhood that
they had their first, and only, serious conflict with the
natives, on which occasion Mr. Whitewood, master's-
mate, one of Franklin's messmates, was wounded by
spears in four places.
The old Investigator, at about this period, exhibiting
unmistakable signs of decay, besides making water some-
times at the rate of fourteen inches per hour, Captain
Flinders gave orders for a careful survey of her hull
to be made, when it was discovered, to their great
mortification, that her timbers and planking were in
such a terribly rotten condition, that it was not con-
sidered likely that the ship would hold together, in
ordinary weathei-, for more than six months, and that
in the event of being caught at sea in a heavy gale of
wind, she would, in all probability, founder ! This was,
it must be acknowledged, a very serious state of affairs.
Under the circumstances, Captain Flinders decided that
he would complete the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria,
and then make the best of his way to Sydney, by sailing
round the west coast of Australia, which he thought
would be more easily accomplished than by returning
52 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1795-
along the east coast. He hoped to be able to procure
another ship on his arrival at Sydney, in which to con-
tinue, and, if possible, to complete, his interesting work
of discovery and exploration.
After a somewhat perilous and anxious voyage, he
succeeded in carrying his crippled and sorely stricken
ship to Port Jackson, which he reached on the ioth
June 1803, after an absence of eleven months. In con-
sequence of the scarcity of fresh provisions, the severity
of the work on which they had been engaged, and the
privations they had been exposed to, the ship's company
was so much debilitated by scurvy and dysenteiy, that
it vvas with difficulty they succeeded in working the ship
into harbour. No less than five of the crew died a few
days prior to the ship's arrival, and four succumbed
shortly after their admission to the hospital on shore.
Flinders was himself attacked with scorbutic affection,
and doubtless Franklin was not himself in a more envi-
able state, and was in all probability suffering from the
same terrible wasting disease.
Shortly after their arrival, a careful survey was held on
the old and crazy ship by a board of competent officers,
specially selected and appointed by the Governor; the
result being that she was found to be in such an unsea-
worthy and rotten state that she was reported to be
"not worth repairing in any country," 1 also, that it was
absolutely impossible to " put her in a state for going to
sea," with the facilities for repairing ships then existing
at Port Jackson. She was found to be incapable of
further service, and it was strongly represented by the
board to the authorities, that in the event of her being
1 Extract from the report of the board ordered to survey the Inves-
tigator relative to her sea-worthiness.
1803.] FRANKLIN JOINS THE "PORPOISE." 53
caught at sea in a hard gale of wind, she would inevit-
ably go to the bottom.
Under these circumstances, and after numerous con-
sultations, it was eventually arranged that the old
Investigator should be abandoned, and converted into
a storehouse hulk, and that Captain Flinders, with a
portion of his officers and crew, should be sent home as
passengers in the armed vessel Porpoise, in order to
report the facts of the case to the Admiralty, and
endeavour to obtain another vessel in which to continue
the exploration of the coast of Australia.
Twenty -two officers and men, in which number Frank-
lin was included, embarked with Flinders on board the
Porpoise for passage to England. This was all that re-
mained out of a complement of eighty officers and men
that sailed from England in the Investigator only two
years before. This alarming reduction was not, how-
ever, clue to deaths alone, for many were invalided,
while some few were permitted, at their own request,
to remain out and settle in the new colony. Franklin
was discharged as a midshipman to the Porpoise, and
was entered on her books as a master's-mate on 21st
July 1803.
CHAPTER IV.
WRECK OF THE " PORPOISE"— REACH CANTON-
DEFEAT OF LINOIS BY DANCE— ARRIVAL IN
ENGLAND.
1803-1S04.
" I am as a weed
Flung from the rock on ocean's foam to sail,
Where'er the surge may sweep, the tempest breath prevail."
—ChiMe Harold.
The Porpoise, under the command of Mr. Fowler, late
first lieutenant of the Investigator, sailed from Sydney
on the nth of August 1803. Although she was nomi-
nally under the command of Lieutenant Fowler, that
officer was directed to conform to the wishes and orders
of Captain Flinders, who, though a passenger, was really
in absolute charge.
Flinders decided upon returning to England by the
route which, it may be said, he was the first to discover
and to recognise its practicability, namely, by Torres
Strait, for he would then, he thought, be afforded an
opportunity of checking, and perhaps elaborating, a
great deal of the work that he had already accomplished
in those waters whilst in command of the Investigator.
On leaving Sydney, the Porpoise was accompanied by
the East India Company's ship Bridgewater, and by the
ship Cato of London, both bound to Batavia, the captains
of those vessels having expressed a wish to be piloted
54
1803.] WRECK OF THE ••PORPOISE." 55
through Torres Strait by Captain Flinders. All went
as " pleasant as a marriage-bell " until the evening of
the 17th August, six days after leaving Port Jackson,
when the terrible cry of "Breakers ahead!" resounded
throughout the ship, and brought everybody on deck.
The helm was at once put down, too late, however, to
save the ill-fated ship from destruction, for she struck
heavily on an unknown reef, the masts went by the
board, and falling over on her beam ends, she lay
exposed to the fury of the waves, which broke over
her mastless hull with irresistible violence. Before
any warning of the appalling disaster that had so sud-
denly, and so unexpectedly, overwhelmed the unfortunate
Porpoise could be given to her consorts, the Cato, fol-
lowing closely at the distance only of a couple of cables,
struck on the same reef ; her masts broke short off, she
fell over on her broadside, and soon became a total
wreck.
The Briihjeicater escaped, but, incredible as it may
appear, made no effort to rescue or to render any assist-
ance whatever to the crews of her unfortunate consorts,
although she remained in close promixity to the reef for
a period of twenty-four hours, when she heartlessly pro-
ceeded on her voyage to Batavia. That those on board
must have been fully cognizant of the perilous situation
of their unfortunate friends in the wrecked ships is
evident, from the fact that on her arrival at Bombay,
the captain of the Bridgewater reported the total loss
of the two ships with all hands ! It may not be out
of place to note here that this ship, with the same
dastardly captain, sailed from Bombay a few days after
her arrival there on her homeward voyage, and was
never afterwards heard of. Thus the selfishness and
56 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803-
inhumanity of the captain and those on board, met with
speedy and retributive justice.
The night that followed the disastrous stranding of
the Porpoise was one of intense anxiety and suspense
to all on board, and was spent in strenuous endeavours
to construct a raft, out of the available masts and yards
and other spars, capable of receiving the crew, in the
not unimprobable event of the ship going to pieces
before the morning. This was a new, and by no means
pleasant, experience for John Franklin. Although so
young in years — for he was only seventeen at the time
of the catastrophe — he had braved many dangers and
had encountered many perils; but this was the first
time he had been brought face to face with shipwreck,
and in one of its worst and most dreadful forms.
When, at length, the long-wished-for daylight broke,
and that
" Miserable night,
So full of fearful dreams,"
had passed, they observed a dry sandbank about half
a mile from the wreck. Although its superficial extent
was not very great, it was, at any rate, large enough to
accommodate the crews of the two ships, with as much
of the provisions and stores as they hoped to be able
to save.
The wretched people in the Cato were even in a worse
plight than those on board the Porpoise, for the fore-
castle with the bowsprit attached, was the only portion
of the vessel that remained above water, and to this the
unfortunate crew had clung all that long and weary
night, until rescued in the morning from their perilous
and distressing condition by a boat from the Porpoise.
1804.] THE CREWS LANDED ON A REEF. 57
The only place to which they could secure themselves,
and avoid being washed away by the raging surf, was
the port fore-chains. In this trying situation, clinging
to the wreck and holding on by the chain-plates and
dead-eyes, they passed the night, and were found all
clustered together in the morning. In consequence of
the terrific sea that was breaking over the wreck, it was
impossible to take the boat alongside to effect their
rescue, and the men were only saved by throwing them-
selves into the water, trusting to those in the boat
to pick them up. Three poor lads were drowned in
unsuccessful attempts to reach the boat, and all were
more or less bruised and cut by the sharp points and
edges of the coral reef in their struggles to get on
shore.
In a few hours after the men were landed the Cato
went to pieces, and not a vestige of her remained visible.
Unlike this ship, the Porpoise had, luckily, when she
struck, heeled over with her upper deck towards the
reef, which was to leeward, thus exposing the hull of
the ship instead of the deck to the violence of the waves
that broke over and against her, and this being stronger
and more capable of resistance, she held together. The
reef, the direct cause of their disaster, was fortunately
nearly dry at low-water, so they had but little difficulty
in landing all the available stores and provisions, besides
a few sheep and pigs that had escaped drowning. The
bank on which they had been wrecked proved to be 900
feet in length by 150 feet broad, and was about three
or four feet above high- water ; not a very extensive or
comfortable place of residence, more especially when it
is remembered that the nearest known land was quite
200 miles distant, and that Sydney, the only place from
58 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803-
which they could hope to obtain succour or assistance,
was about 750 miles off. They were, however, for the
time in comparative safety; they had escaped a great
peril, and, like good sailors, they looked forward with
hope and trust to the future. It does not even appear
that they were at all down-hearted or depressed at the
appalling catastrophe that had overtaken them, for a
great deal of merriment, we are informed, was caused
by some of the Gatds men, who had saved absolutely
nothing from their ship, attiring themselves in officers'
uniforms that had been saved and landed from the
Porpoise.
Their first work was to set up a tall spar on the
highest part of the bank, on which a large blue ensign
was hoisted, with the Union Jack down, as a signal of
distress. This was done in the hope of attracting the
notice of those on board the Bridgewater, which, it was
still believed, would come to their assistance directly it
was known that survivors had escaped from the wrecks
and had reached the bank. They knew very well it was
hopeless to expect aid from any other source, for in
those unfrequented seas it was not probable that any
ship would be cruising in the neighbourhood.
Franklin, it may readily be supposed, experienced his
full share of all the dangers and privations to which he
and his shipwrecked companions were exposed, and there
is but little doubt that he bore himself bravely and
manfully, and worked willingly and zealously in assist-
ing to preserve order, and to maintain cheerfulness and
good feeling in the small community. With the aid
of sails and spars saved from the wreck, tents were
erected on the sandbank, and they succeeded in making
themselves as comfortable and as happy as, under the
1804.] ENCAMPMENT ON WRECK REEF. 59
circumstances, could be expected. A reprieved convict,
who formed one of the crew, was alone guilty of mani-
festing a spirit of insubordination, but this was quickly
and effectually suppressed by the culprit being publicly
flogged at the flag-staff. Strict discipline and a due
obedience to orders were almost essential to their ulti-
mate salvation.
By the 23rd of August, everything that could be saved
ENCAMPMENT ON WRECK REEF.
was landed from the wreck; an inventory was then
taken, when it was found that they had sufficient water
and provisions to last, with care and economy, the
ninety- four survivors for a period of three months. All
the books and most important documents, as also the
charts and plans that had been made during the past
two years in the Investigator, were fortunately saved,
60 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803-
although somewhat damaged by rough usage and salt
water. 1
Having taken all the necessary steps for the preserva-
tion of the stores, &c, a council of officers was called, in
order to consider what action should be taken for the
purpose of obtaining relief. After much consideration,
it was decided that one of the six-oared cutters saved
from the Porpoise, should be despatched to Sydney with
as little delay as possible, to give information relative
to their situation and to endeavour to obtain assistance.
As an extra precaution, and as they could not conceal
from themselves the more than possible contingency of
such a small boat failing to accomplish the distance
(750 miles) in safety, more especially at that particular
season of the year, when strong winds were prevalent,
it was resolved to commence, from materials saved from
the wrecks, the construction of a couple of decked boats,
capable of transporting the remainder of the people.
This decision being arrived at, the next question was
to decide as to who should be selected to conduct the
voyage to Sydney. As it was one of the utmost import-
ance, and also one of no little peril, Captain Flinders
determined to proceed on this duty himself. Acting on
this resolve, and accompanied by the commander of the
Cato and twelve men, with his small boat stored with
provisions and water to last for three weeks, he sailed
on the 26th leaving eighty officers and men on the bank,
1 Some of the original drawings and sketches made hy Mr. Westall
are still in existence, and are now in the possession of the Royal Colonial
Institute in Loudon. They bear evidence of the damage they then
sustained from immersion, and some few show slight indentations,
caused, it is said, by Franklin and the other midshipmen thought-
lessly driving the sheep saved from the wreck over them, as they were
spread out to dry on the saud !
1804.] A TIMELY DELIVERANCE. 61
which had so providentially been the means of their
salvation after their vessels had been destroyed.
It is hardly possible to conceive the feelings that
animated the breasts of those poor fellows who were
left behind, and who were well aware that several weeks
must necessarily elapse before they could expect, or even
hope, to obtain succour. They could not banish from
their thoughts the possibility, almost amounting to a
probability, of the loss of the small frail boat whose
occupants they had just bidden God-speed, as they
started on their long and venturesome voyage. In order to
prepare for the worst, and also, perhaps, with the object
of occupying the minds of the men and thus drown their
thoughts in employment, they were set to work to build
two boats, which, as a dernier ressort, were intended
to transport them to the mainland of Australia, in the
event of no tidings of the cutter being received in two
months ; by that time their provisions and water would
be nearly expended, for, as has already been stated,
they had only saved sufficient from the wreck to eke out
a bare subsistence for three months. In spite, however,
of their critical situation, the utmost harmony prevailed,
and all worked cheerily together, having a common end
in view. At length, on the 7th of October, when tliey
were already beginning to despair and to give up all
hope of obtaining that help which they so sorely needed,
the joyful cry of a ''Sail in sight" burst upon the ears
of the little community, and aroused its members to a
state of enthusiastic excitement, as they rushed out to
satisfy themselves of the accuracy or otherwise of the
report.
Yes! there was no doubt of its trutli, for there, on
the horizon, as they strained their eyes to seaward, one,
62 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803-
two, three sails could be seen making their way, with a
favourable breeze, towards their island-home. In a very
short time they had the extreme satisfaction, and gi-ati-
fication, of greeting, which they did most sincerely and
heartily, their old commander, who had brought his
perilous voyage to such a successful and expeditious
issue, having returned to their aid and succour only six
weeks after he had bidden them farewell.
His voyage in the six-oared cutter, for a distance of
750 miles, had been an extremely hazardous one; but
Flinders, by constant care and watchfulness, succeeded in
reaching Port Jackson in safety. Doubtless his early
experiences in the little Tom Thumb stood him in good
stead during this voyage. Immediately on his arrival
at Sydney, and the tidings of the disaster becoming
known, the necessary arrangements for the relief of the
shipwrecked men were made, three ships being at once
despatched on this service. They were the Rolla, bound
to Canton, and the two Government schooners Cumber-
land and Frances. The captain of the first-named ship
had generously volunteered to accompany Flinders, who
was on the point of sailing with the two schooners only,
and he voluntarily agreed to call at the reef on his way to
China, so as to convey the majority of the shipwrecked
people to Canton, where they would have no difficulty,
it was thought, in finding some homeward-bound India-
man, in which they could obtain a passage to England.
It is needless to say that but little time was lost in
getting away from the scene of their unfortunate adven-
ture. Everything being ready by the nth, and all the
stores worth saving having been embarked, the three
ships took their departure from the reef. The Frances
returned to Sydney with those officers and men who
1804.] CAPTIVITY AND DEATH OF FLINDERS. 63
were desirous of settling in that colony; the Cumber-
land, with Captain Flinders, two officers, and eight men,
sailed direct to England rid Torres Strait, Mauritius,
and the Cape of Good Hope ; while Lieutenants Fowler
and Flinders, with the remainder of the officers and
crews of the Purpoise and Cato (including John Frank-
lin), embarked on board the Holla for passage to China.
Captain Flinders elected to return to England in the
Cumberland, as he was anxious to get home as soon as
possible, in order to report his discoveries, and to pre-
pare his notes and charts with a view to publication.
On his way home he touched at Mauritius for water and
provisions, when he was made a prisoner of war and his
vessel seized by the French Governor. This act was
a direct infringement of international law, and con-
trary to the established and recognised usages of civi-
lised nations, for it has always been held that marine
surveyors, and scientific expeditions of all descrip-
tions, whose work is of importance, not only to the
nation that employs them, but also to mankind in
general, are invariably specially exempted from capture,
or detention, in time of war. To the discredit of the
French nation, Captain Flinders, although he was in
possession of a passport from the First Consul, was not
only made a prisoner, but he was detained on the island
for a period of no less than six and a half years !
On his liberation and return to England, he wrote the
narrative of his memorable voyage, and, sick at heart
and weary at the unjust treatment he had received, died
on 19th July 1 8 14, on the very day that his work,
recording the labours of his life, was published.
Under the command of such a man as Flinders, an
officer who possessed high scientific attainments, combined
64 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803-
with the practical knowledge of a skilful seaman, and with
whose professional pursuits he was closely connected for
a period of over two years, it is not surprising that
Franklin, although a very young officer, acquired during
his service in the Investigator a thorough knowledge of
a sailor's work, and was rapidly becoming an experienced
surveyor.
The Rolla, with Franklin and his companions on
board, in due course of time reached Canton. Here
they fortunately found a large squadron of Indiamen
on the point of sailing for England, under the command
of Commodore Nathaniel Dance of the Honourable East
India Company's service. No difficulty was experienced
in obtaining a passage home for the officers and men of
the Investigator, who were distributed among the different
vessels composing the squadron ; Franklin, with his late
first lieutenant and commander, Mr. Fowler, being
appointed to the Earl Camden, which flew the broad
pendant of Commodore Dance.
The squadron consisted of the following ships : —
Earl Camden. Earl of Abergavenny.
Royal George. Henry Addington.
Warley. Bombay Castle.
Coutts. Cumberland.
A If red. Hope.
Wexford. Dorsetshire.
Ganges. Warren Hastings.
Exeter. Ocean.
These vessels were all over a thousand tons burthen,
and carried from thirty to thirty-six guns, the majority,
howevei', being of light calibre. Their hulls were
painted in imitation of line-of-battle ships and frigates,
the more easily to deceive the enemy's cruisers and
1S04.] FRENCH SQUADRON SIGHTED. 65
privateers, that were continually on the watch, ready
to pounce upon, and snap up, any fat rich Indiaman that
might fall into their clutches. Being merchant ships,
they were, of course, very much under- manned for
fighting purposes, no ship having more than about 140
men in her crew, the greater proportion of which were
Lascars and Chinamen. The arrival and subsequent
distribution of the shipwrecked crews of the Porpoise
and Cato, all stalwart and well-disciplined men, must
have been a welcome addition to the somewhat weak and
inferior crews of the Indiamen.
This large squadron, laden with the rich wares and
merchandise of China and Japan, was accompanied by
about twenty other, though smaller, country ships.
They sailed from Canton on the 31st January 1804.
No event of importance happened until the 14th of the
following month, when, as they were entering the Straits
of Malacca, near the island of Pulo Aor, some strange
vessels were reported in sight from the masthead. These
were soon made out to be a French squadron under the
command of Admiral Linois, consisting of the line-of-
battle ship Marengo of seventy-four guns, two large
frigates, a twenty-two-gun corvette, and a sixteen-gun
brig. The French admiral having received intimation
of the sailing of the Indiamen, had put to sea from
Batavia, with the intention of intercepting them, and,
as he, hoped, swelling the coffers of France with the rich
spoils he made sure he was about to capture.
But Admiral Linois had reckoned without his host,
for, in his calculations, he had not given sturdy Nathaniel
Dance credit for opposing, much less for defeating, the
strong force he had under his command.
Immediately the French sighted the ships they were
E
66 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1803.
in search of, they bore down in hot pursuit ; but instead
of seeing the English merchant ships crowd on all sail to
escape, as they not unnaturally expected, they observed
them form in order of battle in perfect regularity and
make the necessary preparations, not only for resisting,
but also for acting on the offensive. The bold front
shown by the English somewhat perplexed the French
admiral, and as the day was waning, he hauled to the
wind, and stood off to some distance, preferring to wait
for daylight before commencing hostile operations.
The English ships, all well under command, lay-to
for the night in order of battle, the brave Commodore
scorning to take advantage of the darkness to endeavour
to effect an escape. Admiral Linois was so deceived by
the confident front shown by the English, that he felt con-
vinced the squadron was partly composed of men-of-war,
and under this impression he hesitated to attack on the
following morning. Observing the hesitancy on the
part of the French Admiral, Commodore Dance made
the signal for his squadron to continue their course under
easy sail. Seeing his opportunity, Linois also made
sail and advanced with the object of endeavouring to
cut off some of the rear ships of the British squadron.
But Dance was fully equal to the occasion, and being
determined to keep his squadron intact, he instantly
ran up the signal, " Tack in succession, bear down in
line ahead, and engage the enemy." This plucky signal
was, as may be imagined, received with ringing cheers
by the crews of the English ships, and, to the astonish-
ment of the French admiral, he soon had the whole
British squadron standing towards him in a formidable
and resolute line of battle.
It must indeed have been a wonderful sight to see a
1804.] DEFEAT AND FLIGHT OF LINOIS. 69
fleet of merchant ships steadily advancing, with a bold
undaunted front, to the attack of a hostile squadron
composed of smart and efficient men of war, and com-
manded by one of the most talented and dashing
admirals in the French navy. Young Franklin had
smelt powder at Copenhagen ; he had subsequently ex-
perienced many perils and dangers both by sea and
land ; his brief professional career had been an adven-
turous one, but on this occasion, when he hoisted the
signal, by the direction of the brave old Commodore, to
"engage the enemy" (for he was doing duty as signal-
midshipman on board the Camden throughout that event-
ful day), his bosom must have swelled with pride, and
his face flushed with a glow of enthusiasm and triumph
when he reflected — if he had time for reflection — that
he was fortunate enough to be one of those few destined
to play a part in such a gallant affair.
After the action had lasted a little more than three-
quarters of an hour, the French ceased firing, having
had enough of it, and made sail away. Instantly the
gallant Dance threw out the signal for a "general chase;"
and then was seen the extraordinary spectacle of a French
squadron of men-of-war, commanded by an undoubtedly
brave and most distinguished officer, retreating in hot
haste, and some confusion, before a fleet of English
armed merchant ships ! Having pursued the flying
Frenchmen for upwards of two hours, and having fully
upheld the honour, dignity and credit of the British
flag, and also, doubtless, considering the safety of the
valuable merchandise committed to his charge, the
Commodore recalled his chasing ships, reformed his
squadron, and proceeded on his homeward course, and
was not again molested by the valiant Frenchman.
70 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1303.
This action fought by Commodore Dance stands out
almost unparalleled for skill and daring among the
numerous gallant deeds at sea that were constantly
being performed in those days.
Admiral Linois candidly acknowledged his defeat,
ascribing it to the superiority of the opposing force,
little thinking that the squadron with which he had
been engaged was composed only of merchant vessels !
He also admitted that he was pursued by the English
ships for three hours, during which time, he states, they
discharged "several ineffective broadsides " at him.
The promptness and decision of Commodore Dance,
combined with his boldness and the gallantry of those
who served under him, without doubt, saved from capture
the rich and valuable fleet that was intrusted to his
care. On the arrival of the ships in England, the Com-
modore received at the hands of his sovereign the well-
merited honour of knighthood, while other rewards and
honours, of a more substantial character, were deservedly
bestowed on him and his brave companions in arms.
The voyage having terminated, Franklin was discharged
from the Earl Camden on the 7th of August 1804, and,
after an absence of a little more than three years, he
had the inexpressible pleasure of returning home, and
once more rejoining the family circle, and of visiting his
old friends at Spilsby.
CHAPTER V.
APPOINTED TO « BELLEROPHON" — BATTLE OF
TRAFALGAR— JOINS THE " BEDFORD"— ATTACK
ON NEW ORLEANS— ON HALF-PAY.
1804-1815
" War, he sung, is toil and trouble,
Honour but an empty bubble." — Drydkn.
On the day following his discharge from the Earl
Camden, Franklin was appointed to the Bellerophon,
commanded by Captain Loring; but as she did not
arrive from the West Indies until two days after his
appointment was dated, and as he does not appear to
have joined her until the 20th of the following month,
we may assume that he spent the intermediate time
with his friends on a well-earned leave.
He first appears on the books of the Bellerophon, as
an A.B., and then as a midshipman. In those days,
it was not an uncommon occurrence for a young officer
to be entered on the books of a ship, if there was no
vacancy for a midshipman, with the rating of one of the
ship's company, with the object of enabling him to
continue to count his time in the navy. This was
presumably the reason why his name is shown on the
ship's books with the rating of A.B. Franklin, it must
be acknowledged, had enjoyed but a short leave after his
long and adventurous service in Australia before he was
71
72 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1S04-
appointed to a ship ; but in those times the officers of
the navy were in constant requisition. England re-
quired their services, and there was but little half -pay
for her sons, and less leave.
The duty on which the Bellerophon was engaged
was the blockade of the French fleet in the harbour
of Brest, and this was rigidly maintained during the
whole winter by the squadron under the command of
Lord Collingwood ; this service was a new experience to
our young friend. On the 24th of April 1805, Captain
Loring was relieved in the command of the Bellerophon
by Captain John Cooke, and on the 29th September, of
the same year, Lord Nelson joined the fleet in the Vic-
tory, and took over the command from Lord Collingwood.
On the ever-memorable 21st of October, Franklin
was signal- midshipman of the Bellerophon, and was, in
all probability, the officer who saw, and perhaps reported
to his captain, Nelson's celebrated signal. All who have
read the account of the battle of Trafalgar will remember
the prominent part that was played in that action by the
Bellerophon, and how, at the end of that glorious day,
she had to mourn the loss of her brave captain, the
master, one midshipman, and twenty -five men killed ;
while her captain of marines, boatswain, one master's-
mate, four midshipmen, and 120 men were returned as
wounded. No less than six of Franklin's messmates were
rendered hors de combat during that eventful struggle,
but his ship had emerged from it covered with glory, and
many of the hostile vessels could vouch for the hard
knocks and rough treatment they received, from the
stout old seventy-four. Franklin was himself noted for
"evincing very conspicuous zeal and activity" during
that glorious day. He was stationed during the fight
1S15.] BATTLE OF TRAFALGAR. 73
on the poop, and was one, out of only four or five, in
that particular part of the ship who escaped unhurt. It
was well said of him that " he was in battle fearless and
in danger brave."
The following is an extract from the official log of
the Bellerophon on the day of the battle, which may prove
interesting : —
"Ten minutes past noon, the Royal Sovereign opened fire
on the enemy's centre. At thirteen minutes past noon, an-
swered the general signal 16. At twenty minutes, the Royal
Sovereign broke through enemy's line astern of a Spanish
three-decker. 12.20 opened fire on the enemy. At 12.30
engaging on both sides in passing through the enemy's line
astern of a Spanish two-decker. At thirty-five minutes, while
hauling to the wind, fell on board the French two-decked
ship L'Aigle, with our starboard bow on her starboard quarter ;
our fore-yard locking with her main one. Kept up a brisk
fire both on her and the Spanish ship on the larboard bow,
at the same time receiving the fire of two ships, one astern,
the other on the larboard quarter. At one o'clock the main
and mizen topmasts fell over the side. At 1.5 the master
fell. At 1.1 1 Captain John Cooke fell. Still foul of the
L'Aigle. The quarter-deck, poop, and forecastle being nearly
cleared by troops on board L'Aigle. 1.40 L'Aigle dropped to
leeward, under a raking fire from us as she fell off. At three,
took possession of the Spanish ship El Monarca. Casualties,
twenty-eight killed and 1 27 wounded."
On the death of Captain Cooke, the first lieutenant,
Mr. William Pryce-Cumby, took command of the ship,
and fought her until the end of the action. He was
relieved on the 4th November by Captain E. Rotheram,
who was Lord Collingwood's flag-captain in the Royal
Sovereign.
The Bellerophon anchored in Plymouth Sound on the
74 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1804-
3rd December 1805 ; after making good the injuries sus-
tained in the action, she was employed cruising between
Finisterre and Ushant, with occasional visits to Plymouth,
during the following eighteen months.
On the 24th of October 1807, Mr. Franklin, with 46
petty officers, no A.B.'s, and 92 ordinary seamen, were
drafted from the Bellerophon to the Bedford of seventy-
four guns. Franklin was entered on the books as a
master's-mate, but was made an acting lieutenant by
order of Admiral Sir Sidney Smith on the following 5th
of December ; he was confirmed in that rank by their
Lordships on the nth February 1808. Prior to joining
the Bedford, Franklin received intelligence of the death
of his eldest brother, Thomas Adams, who died at Spilsby,
and was buried on the nth October 1807, aged thirty-
four years.
Leaving Cawsand Bay on the 1 ith of November 1807,
the Bedford formed part of a large squadron that was
employed cruising for some weeks off Lisbon ; she was
afterwards engaged, in company with a squadron of
Portuguese ships, in escorting the royal family of Por-
tugal from Lisbon to Brazil, whither they fled for safety
on the occasion of the invasion of Portugal by Marshal
Junot. They reached Rio de Janeiro on the 7th of
March 1808. For the next two years the Bedford was
stationed on the east coast of South America, but she
returned to England in August 1810. From the latter
end of that year until February 18 13, she was employed
with the fleet engaged in the unfortunate Walcheren ex-
pedition and in the blockade of Flushing and the Texel.
To a man of Franklin's energetic disposition, accus-
tomed as he had been to service of a more exciting
nature, this wearisome blockading, cruising in the North
1815.] DEATH OF FRANKLIN'S MOTHER. 75
Sea, or at anchor on the seventeen-fathoui bank in sight
of the West Capel Church, with nothing to relieve the
dull monotony, must have indeed been depressing. It
was, however, excellent training for both officers and
men ; the constant sea-work in a latitude where gales
of wind and heavy squalls are not unfrequent, was a
valuable experience that could not be otherwise than
beneficial. It was during the time he was engaged on
this service, that he received the melancholy news of the
loss of his mother. She died and was buried at Spilsby
on the 27th November 18 10, aged fifty-nine years.
Early in 1 8 1 3, to the inexpressible relief and gratifica-
tion of those on board, orders were received for the
Bedford to convoy a fleet of merchant vessels to the West
Indies, and she left Plymouth on this service on the 3rd
April. Barbados was reached on the 23rd May, and
after a short cruise among the beautiful islands of the
West Indian group, she returned to England, arriving
in the Downs on the 6th September 18 13. For the
succeeding nine months the Bedford was stationed on
her old cruising-ground off the Texel and Scheveningen,
but in September 18 14 she was again sent with a con-
voy across the Atlantic to the West Indies. Thence she
proceeded to New Orleans, which was reached on the
13th December, having been despatched in order to
assist in the operations about to be undertaken against
the Americans.
An attack on New Orleans having been decided upon,
it was deemed advisable to land the attacking force at
the head of Lake Borgne ; but in order to do so, it was
necessary to clear the lake of the enemy's gunboats
that had assembled there in some force. This service
Vice- Admiral Cochrane undertook to carry out with the
76 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1804-
naval force at his disposal. Accordingly a division of
boats, containing about iooo officers and men, belonging
to the British ships that were stationed off New Orleans,
left on the night of the 12th of December 18 14, under
the command of Captain Nicholas Lockyer. Franklin
was present on this occasion, and was probably in com-
mand of a division, or subdivision, of the boats employed.
On the forenoon of the following day, after a long and
toilsome pull of thirty-six miles against a strong current,
the enemy's gunboats were sighted, and a desperate
attack was made on them, resulting in a complete victory
for the British ; but it was dearly purchased, for so
desperate was the resistance, that a loss was sustained
on our side of three midshipmen and fourteen men
killed, while Captain Lockyer, four lieutenants (includ-
ing Franklin), one lieutenant of marines, three master's-
mates, seven midshipmen (two mortally), and sixty-one
men were wounded. The loss sustained by the Ameri-
cans was slight in comparison. For this action Franklin
received a medal, and was honourably mentioned in
despatches.
During the subsequent attack on New Orleans,
Franklin, having partially recovered from his wound,
assisted in conducting the indescribably arduous opera-
tion of cutting a canal across the neck of land be-
tween the Bayou Calatan and the Mississippi. For
his conduct and gallant exertions on the morning of
the 8th of January 1815, on which occasion he com-
manded a division of seamen under Captain Rowland
Money, 1 when a large body of Americans strongly en-
1 Captain Rowland Money was desperately wounded at this en-
gagement, having both bones of his right leg shattered by a musket
shot as he stormed the battery. For his conspicuous bravery on this,
1815.] FIRST LIEUTENANT ON THE "FORTH." 77
trenched on the right bank of the river was defeat ed,
he was officially and very warmly recommended for
promotion. The Bedford sailed on her homeward
voyage in March, and reached Spithead on the 30th
May 181 5. She was paid off on the 5th of July follow-
ing. In spite of his long and uninterrupted service in
the old seventy-four, extending over a period of nearly
eight years in that ship, we find him two days after
paying off the Bedford, appointed as first lieutenant of
the Forth, commanded by Captain Sir William Bolton.
He joined her on the gth July, and remained as first
lieutenant until she was paid off on the following 2nd
of September.
During the short time that Franklin was in this ship,
she was employed in conveying the Duchesse D'Angou-
leme to Dieppe, having been specially prepared for the
reception of Her Royal Highness. After paying off the
Forth, Franklin was doomed for the succeeding three
years to pass a period of professional inactivity. The
peace of 1815 necessitated a serious reduction in the
navy, and several officers were consequently thrown out
of employment. Franklin was, therefore, like many
others, compelled to rusticate on half-pay, waiting for
something to turn up. He was not, however, a man to
lead a life of idleness; he therefore turned his attention
to scientific pursuits, for which he had always evinced
an inclination, and which, he thought, would afford fuller
scope for his talents.
and other occasions, he was strongly recommended for promotion by
Sir Alexander Coobrane. He was sent home with despatches, was
posted, and made a G'.B,
CHAPTER VI.
RETROSPECT OF GEOGRAPHICAL EXPLORATION
IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS.
1607-1773.
" Oh, who can tell, save he whose heart hath tried,
And danced in triumph o'er the waters wide,
The exulting sense, the pulse's maddening play,
That thrills the wanderer of that trackless way ? "
— The Corsair.
England in the year 18 18 being at peace with all the
world, had time to turn her thoughts to eminently peace-
ful pursuits, and to employ her men and money on equally
glorious, and perhaps more important, matters than war.
Among other subjects, that of geographical discovery
was discussed, and the encouragement of Arctic explora-
tion which had been allowed to slumber since the unsuc-
cessful attempt of Captain Phipps to reach the North
Pole in 1773, was again revived.
Foremost among the promoters of geographical re-
search in high latitudes at this time was Sir John
Barrow, the Secretary of the Admiralty. This ardent
and zealous geographer had very carefully, and with
masterly skill and ability, after much tedious research,
collected all the reports that had been received
during the early part of the century, bearing on the
condition and the locality of the ice in high northern
78
IONS
^
»K
-ARCTIC REGIONS^-?-
1817.] PROJECTED EXPEDITIONS. 79
latitudes. "With this information as a basis, he drew
out an elaborate and well-prepared scheme for the ex-
ploration of the northern regions. His plan being
warmly supported by the President and Council of the
Royal Society, also met with the approval of the Board
of Admiralty. So well was the idea received by the
public, that it was finally entertained and approved by
the Government, who resolved, forthwith, to despatch two
expeditions, one with the object of endeavouring to dis-
cover a north-west passage round the northern continent
of America ; the other for the purpose of attempting to
reach the North Pole.
One of the principal reasons that led to the organi-
sation and despatch of these expeditions, was the very
favourable reports brought home by the whalers in
1817, regarding the state and quantity of the ice in
the Spitzbergen and Greenland seas ; and also perhaps
to the writings of, and arguments advanced by, the two
Scoresbys, father and son, two of the most expe-
rienced, skilful, and talented whaling captains that our
country has ever produced. It was also reported that
during the preceding three years, large quantities of
heavy polar ice had drifted down from the north to un-
usually low latitudes; and in 181 7, the hitherto almost
inaccessible eastern coast of Greenland, it was stated,
had been actually visited by whale-ships between the
70th and 80th parallels of latitude, while the inter-
mediate sea between Greenland and Spitzbergen had
been reported as comparatively free of ice. It was
therefore, considered to be a particularly favourable time
to undertake exploration in those waters.
It may be of interest here to note, that in 1745 an
Act of Parliament was passed, offering a reward of
80 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FEANKLIN. [1607-
^20,000 "to such person or persons who shall discover
a north-west passage through Hudson's Strait to the
western and southern oceans of America." In the year
1776 a sum of ,£5000 was offered by the English
Government to the first person who should reach the
89th parallel of latitude. In 18 18, when it was decided
to despatch the two expeditions just alluded to, pro-
portionate rewards were offered by Act of Parliament
for the different degrees of latitude reached. Thus, any
vessel that first succeeded in reaching the 83rd parallel
would be entitled to a reward of ^"iooo; double that
sum would be granted for crossing the 85th parallel;
^3000 to any vessel, or person, that should reach 87°
N. ; ^"4000 for the 88th parallel; and ,£5000 for the
Pole. ^5000 was also offered to the first ship that
should cross the 110th west meridian of longitude, north
of America. 1
These large rewards were offered as incentives to
whaling captains and others, who might be tempted, by
the chance of gaining them, to push northwards through
the ice, and so increase the limited knowledge we then
possessed of the northern portion of our globe.
The command of the expedition that was to be sent
in quest of a north-west passage was conferred on Lieu-
tenant John Ptoss, who was ably seconded by that prince
of Arctic navigators, Lieutenant, afterwards Sir Edward
Parry. The doings of this expedition will not, however,
occupy any part cf this history.
The command of the expedition that it was decided to
send to the North Pole, was intrusted to Commander
1 This reward was actually claimed by, and paid to, Lieutenants
Parry and Liddon, who succeeded in crossing the 110th meridian in
the discovery-ships Hccla and Griper in 1819.
1773.] HENRY HUDSON'S ARCTIC DISCOVERIES. 81
David Buchan, and Lieutenant John Franklin was the
officer selected as his second in command.
Perhaps it will be as well here to give a brief retro-
spect of the geographical work that had already been
accomplished in the direction towards which one of the
new expeditions — and the one in which we are more
particularly interested — was ordered to proceed. Setting
aside all the mythical and unauthenticated stories of
voyages, that are reported to have been made with the
object of discovering a short route to China and Japan
in a high northern latitude, we start with the voyage
of Henry Hudson, which, for skill and daring, stands
out conspicuously among the many brilliant and fearless
maritime acbievements, for which the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries are so pre-eminently distinguished.
This bold navigator sailed from Gravesend on the ist
of May 1607, in what in those days was called a " cock-
boat," named the Hopexcell, with a crew consisting of
ten men and a boy. This was the scale on which Arctic
expeditions in the early part of the seventeenth century
were equipped ! Hudson's orders were to proceed to
India by sailing across the North Pole; and, with his
mind fully made up to act in accordance with the letter
of his instructions, he confidently started. Stretching
across towards Greenland, and sighting that mysterious
continent, he steered along its eastern coast in a northerly
direction, with, apparently, but little hindrance from
ice. Having reached the latitude of 73° "NT., he named
the land then in sight " Hold with Hope," as he was
then hopeful of success ; but being prevented from
making any further progress northwards by the heavy
masses of ice he encountered along the coast, he shaped
a course to the north-east, and stood over towards
F
82 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1607-
Spitzbergen, 1 which he sighted on the 27th June in
latitude 77 , apparently in the neighbourhood of the
Vogel Sang Hoek of Barents ; but the sea was much
encompassed by ice, and he experienced great difficulty
in pushing on. Subsequently he sighted and named
Hakluyt Headland, the north-west point of Spitzbergen,
a name it still bears.
The highest latitude reached by Hudson during
this enterprising voyage, was about 8o° 30' K". on the
1 6th of July, probably off that portion of the coast of
Spitzbergen, which is separated from North-East Island
by Hinlopen Strait. After again examining the sea
between Spitzbergen and Greenland, and finding it
impassable to the north, in consequence of a barrier of
heavy ice stretching across in every direction in which he
sought to penetrate it, Hudson determined upon return-
ing to England. He reached the Thames in safety on
the 15th of September, after a voyage which, for fear-
lessness and audacity, has no equal on record. The
results of this expedition were, from a geographical point
of view, eminently satisfactory, for Hudson had suc-
ceeded, in his frail and poorly equipped little craft, in
not only discovering portions of the coasts of Greenland
and Spitzbergen hitherto unknown, but he had also
navigated his little vessel to a position in a higher
northern latitude than had ever before been reached.
This high position was not surpassed, or even equalled,
for more than 160 years, when Captain Phipps in 1773
succeeded in reaching the latitude of 8o° 48' to the north
of Spitzbergen.
From a commercial point of view, Hudson's voyage
1 Spitzbergen was discovered by the celebrated Dutch Arctic
navigator "William Barents in 1596.
1773.] CAPTAIN JONAS POOLE'S VOYAGES. 83
must always be regarded as a great success, for the
report that he made of the numerous whales and wal-
ruses he had seen, led to the establishment of that lucra-
tive and prosperous fishery which has, with varying
success, been prosecuted to the present day. The east
coast of Greenland, discovered by Hudson, was not again
visited by any known navigator- for the space of 200
years, when Scoresby, an energetic and enterprising
whaling captain, taking advantage of an unusual opening
in the ice, sailed his ship through the pack, and thus
succeeded in rediscovering that coast which had, for so
long, been as a sealed book to navigators.
Three years after the return of Hudson, Captain
Jonas Poole was despatched by the Muscovy Company,
in a vessel called the Amitie, of seventy tons burthen,
with directions to proceed to Spitzbergen, and to search
for " the likelihood of a trade or passage that way." The
crew of his ship consisted of fourteen men and boys.
Poole was much hindered by ice and bad weather, but,
in spite of these obstacles to navigation, he succeeded in
making a fairly good survey of the west coast of Spitz-
bergen, giving names to the most prominent capes,
headlands, and bays. Failing in his efforts to pene-
trate to a high latitude, he returned to England in the
end of August. He was again sent up the following
year, with instructions to explore to the north of Spitz-
bergen, and to report on the existence, or otherwise, of
an open and navigable sea in that direction. This
voyage was not pui-ely geographical, but had also com-
mercial interests in view, the capture of whales and
seals being one of its chief objects. It returned to
England, however, without achieving any great success,
either geographically or pecuniarily.
84 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1607-
From this time the west and south coasts of Spitz-
bergen were frequently, indeed almost annually, visited
by ships of different nations, principally English and
Dutch, in quest of whales, seals, and walruses; and
although there was not, of course, any accurate survey,
the coast-line was fairly well delineated on the charts of
the day. The reports of these voyages, that are still
extant, deal principally with matters relating to the
valuable fishing industry that had then been established,
and contain but little geographical information of im-
portance, either in connection with discovery, or with
the state and locality of the ice.
It was not until the year 1773 that the English
Government, at the instigation of Mr. Daines Barring-
ton, 1 decided upon sending an expedition for the purpose
of ascertaining how far navigation was practicable in
the direction of the North Pole. In this decision they
received the warm support of the President and Council
of the Royal Society.
The ships selected for this expedition were the Race-
horse and Carcass. They were what were then termed
bomb-vessels, and being strongly constructed, were con-
sidered the most suitable for the special service on which
they were to be employed. The command of the ex-
pedition was intrusted to Captain the Hon. Constantine
Phipps (afterwards Lord Mulgrave), who hoisted his
pendant in the Racehorse. Commander Lutwidge was
appointed to the command of the Carcass, in which ship
Horatio Nelson also served as a midshipman • it was thus
among the ice floes of the Arctic Seas that our great
1 Mr. Barrington was a son of Lord Barrington, and was brother of
Admiral Samuel Barrington, who was a very distinguished naval
officer.
1773.] EXPEDITION OF CAPTAIN PHIPPS. 85
naval hero received his first real training in a ship of
■war, and learnt how to combat with difficulties, and how
successfully to overcome them.
The two ships were thoroughly overhauled and pre-
pared for the service on which they were to be engaged,
and although of strong construction, they were addition-
ally strengthened by a stout doubling of hard wood on
the outside, to assist in resisting the pressure of the ice.
The complement of each ship was twenty-two officers and
seventy men. Captains Phipps and Lutwidge were offi-
cers of great experience, and of known scientific attain-
ments. The remainder of the officers were also specially
selected, and a civilian, Mr. Israel Lyon, a gentleman
of great mathematical reputation, was appointed, on the
recommendation of the Board of Longitude, to the Race-
horse in the capacity of astronomer. Stores and provisions
of the very best quality were liberally supplied to the two
ships, and they were each fitted with an apparatus for
distilling fresh water, the invention of Mr. Irving, the
surgeon of the Racehorse. This was probably the first
time that water was procured in the Royal Navy by the
condensation of steam.
On the 23rd of May, the First Lord of the Admiralty, 1
accompanied by the French Ambassador, paid the ships
a visit, and on the 4th of the following month the ex-
pedition sailed from Sheerness.
The orders received by Captain Phipps were to the
effect that he was, with the two ships under his com-
mand, to proceed to the North Pole, or as close to it as
ice and other obstructions would permit, as nearly as
possible on the meridian of Greenwich. If successful
in reaching the Pole, he was to return immediately and
1 The Earl of Sandwich.
86 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1607-
report himself, and he was specially directed to he
careful to make all necessary observations that would
assist in improving navigation and promoting general
knowledge.
On the 19th of June the Arctic Chicle was crossed,
and on the 28th the coast of Spitzbergen was sighted,
which Captain Phipps describes as being formed of high
barren black rocks, in many places bare and pointed,
and in others covered with snow. No signs of vegeta-
tion were visible. Continuing their course to the north-
ward, the expedition skirted along the west coast of
Spitzbergen, until, on the 4th of July, they cast anchor
in Hamburg Cove, about three miles south of Magda-
lena Bay. The weather, however, was exceedingly tem-
pestuous, necessitating an immediate departure, without
giving the officers an opportunity of exploring the coast
in the vicinity, or of taking any magnetic or other
observations. They were not even afforded time to re-
plenish their tanks with water, which, in spite of the
distilling apparatus, they were desirous of accomplishing.
Proceeding northwards, they encountered an almost im-
penetrable ice pack in the neighbourhood of Hakluyt
Headland. They made many futile efforts to push
through this pack, but always without success, although
they skirted along it for many miles, running into every
indentation, going round every point, and forcing the
ships, by carrying a heavy press of sail, through the ice
wherever it appeared to be loosely packed. The out-
look was as cheerless and unpromising as could be well
imagined, for to the northward, as far as they could see,
appeared an unbroken frozen ocean, without water or
any opening in the pack being visible.
On the 10th of July, after great toil and incessant
1773.] THE TWO SHIPS BESET. 87
labour, and not without severe bufferings from the ice,
the latitude 8o° 36' N. was reached on the 2nd meridian
east of Greenwich. Four days after, the ships were
compelled to seek shelter from a westerly gale in Fair
Haven, where they remained until the evening of the
iSth. The officers, profiting by their stay, took a series
of pendulum observations, and made a rough survey of
the harbour and adjacent country. On the 25th, Moffin
Island was visited. Thence the ships plied in a north-
easterly direction, and on the 27th were in latitude, by
dead reckoning, 8o° 48', and longitude 15 E., about due
north of the central part of the Spitzbergen group.
This was the most northern position reached by the
expedition. Here their endeavours to prosecute further
researches in a northerly direction were completely
frustrated by a large solid pack, which not only defied
their efforts to penetrate, but compelled them to retreat
to the southward, so as to avoid being beset in the
broken -up ice that is invariably encountered on the out-
skirts of a large pack.
On the 30th of July the ships were imprisoned in a
pool of water, so surrounded by ice that it was impossible
to escape out of it. The dimensions of this water-hole
gradually diminished, until the vessels were completely
beset by the ice, nor was any indication of water seen
in any direction. The prospect of releasing the ships
from their icy bondage being exceedingly problematical,
preparations were made for abandoning them, and the
boats were ordered to be equipped with this object in
view. Provisions and stores were hoisted up from below
and apportioned to each boat, and the studding sails
were cut up in order to make belts for the men to facili-
tate the dragging of the boats over the ice.
88 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1773.
In tli9 midst of all these preparations, the Carcass,
driven by the erratic movements of the pack, was forced
alongside the Racehorse, and it required no small amount
of exertion and labour, on the part of the officers and
men of the two ships, to separate and subsequently
secure the vessels in safety. The hazardous expedient
of abandoning their ships was, happily, not resorted to,
for on the ioth August the ice suddenly loosened, and
by noon on that day they had the indescribable gratifica-
tion and relief of feeling, and knowing, that the peril
was past. Captain Phipps being fully convinced that
nothing fui'ther could be achieved that year in the way
of exploration, wisely decided upon returning to England.
Spitzbergen was left on the 19th August, and after
sailing along the edge of the ice for a few days, the ships
bore up for England, arriving at Orfordness on the 25th
September, after a most tempestuous passage, during
which they lost several boats, and had to throw two of
their guns overboard. They were both paid out of
commission at Sheerness on the 13th of the following
month.
The results of this expedition were, geographically,
unimportant ; its failure was generally attributed to the
fact that the year was an extremely unfavourable one
for exploration in high latitudes. The Admiralty, how-
ever, to mark their appreciation of the way in which the
work had been carried out by the expedition, promoted
Commander Lutwidge of the Carcass to the rank of
captain, and raised the first lieutenant of the Racehorse
to the rank of Commander.
CHAPTER VII.
EXPEDITION OF BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN
TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE.
" High on the northern silence, speechless things
Own the bare ice, and reign the Ocean's kings."
— Paradise of Birds.
David Buchan, who was selected to command the ex-
pedition to be despatched in quest of the North Pole,
was promoted to the rank of lieutenant on the 29th of
January 1806 ; consequently he was only two years
senior, as a lieutenant, to Franklin. He had, however,
prior to his appointment to the expedition, been raised
to the rank of commander. He was an accomplished
surveying officer, and had done good work in mapping
out the coast in the neighbourhood of Newfoundland.
In 1810, whilst in command of the schooner Adonis,
he had been selected by Sir John Duckworth to conduct
an exploring expedition into the interior of Newfound-
land, a country in those days regarded as a complete
terra incognita. This service was satisfactorily accom-
plished, in spite of the hostile attitude of the natives,
who treacherously murdered two of his men. Whilst
so employed he penetrated a distance of about 130 miles
into the interior. His report of this journey is exceed-
ingly interesting.
The selection of Franklin, who was then a lieutenant
89
90 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
of ten years' seniority, to command the second ship was,
in all probability, due to the zeal and ability he had
displayed as a young officer when serving under a navi-
gator of such repute as Captain Flinders. The very
fact that he had served his apprenticeship in the navy
under so renowned and distinguished an officer, was
almost, in itself, sufficient justification for his selection to
such an important appointment, irrespective of his own
personal qualifications, and the extraordinary aptitude
for marine surveying and other scientific pursuits, that
he had evinced as a young officer. Neither Buchan or
Franklin, however, were experienced in ice navigation,
although the former must have been able to form some
idea of the difficulties of navigating a ship in the pack
from his long service in Newfoundland waters.
The vessels selected were the Dorothea, a ship of
370 tons, and the Trent, a brig of 250 tons. Buchan
was given the command of the Dorothea, and Franklin
was appointed, on the 14th January 1818, as lieu-
tenant in command of the Trent. The two ships had
been specially built for the whale-fishery, in which
they were engaged when chartered by the Government,
but they were additionally strengthened and made as
strong and durable as wood and iron could make them.
The complement of the senior officer's ship was twelve
officers and forty- three seamen and marines, while that
of the Trent was only ten officers and twenty-eight men.
A master and mate, experienced in the Greenland fishery,
were appointed to each ship to act as pilots when in the
ice. The ships were supplied with stores and provisions
to last for an anticipated absence of two years, and both
were carefully and thoroughly equipped for the impor-
tant service on which they were to be engaged.
1818.] BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION. 91
It is much to be regretted that neither Commander
Buchan or Lieutenant Franklin published any account
of this expedition in which they took such leading and
prominent parts ; the former omitted to do so, because
he was of opinion that the voyage was not of sufficient
importance to attract the notice and arouse the interest
of the general public, and the latter had no leisure on
his return to undertake the work. The only narrative
of the expedition that appeared, was the one written
by Captain Beechey (who was first lieutenant of the
Trent with Franklin), and published in 1843, twenty-
five years after the return of the expedition. It is
mainly from this work that the following account has
been compiled.
Captain Buchan's instructions directed him to make
the best of his way into the Spitzbergen seas, and then
to endeavour to force his ships northward between
Spitzbergen and Greenland, without stopping to visit
the coast of either of those countries. The authorities
at the Admiralty, advised most probably by the leading
men of science of the day, were evidently impressed by
the vague and unauthenticated reports that, from time
to time, had cropped up relative to the marvellously
high latitudes attained by the whalers, and other vessels
engaged in the slaughter of oil-producing animals, in
those regions ; for in their official instructions they
informed Captain Buchan that the sea, to the north-
ward of Spitzbergen, had been generally found free from
ice as far north as 83° 30' or 84° ! Therefore, they said,
there is reason to expect that the sea may continue open
still further to the northward, in which case Captain
Buchan was directed to steer due north, and use bis
utmost efforts to reach the North Pole.
92 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
If successful in doing so, he was ordered, if the weather
was favourable, to remain for a few days in the vicinity
of the Pole for the purpose of making observations,
which, it was remarked, his interesting and unexampled
situation might furnish him. After leaving the North
Pole, he was directed to shape a course for Bering's Strait,
or, if this was impracticable, he was to sail round the
north end of Greenland and return home by Baffin's
Bay and Davis's Strait. If unable to get to the Pole,
he was told to direct his efforts solely to reaching
Bering's Strait, and thus accomplish the long-sought-
for, and frequently attempted, north-west passage. In
the event of this being easily achieved, it was left to
Captain Buchan's discretion to return by the same way,
or to sail for England via Kamchatka and the Sandwich
Islands. He was also told to arrange with Captain
John Ross, who was in command of the expedition
that was being despatched by Baffin's Bay in search
of a north-west passage, to fix upon a preconcerted
rendezvous, at which they should both meet in the
Pacific.
The advancement of science, other than geographical
research, was one of the chief aims of the expedition,
and valuable instruments were therefore supplied to
both ships for ascertaining the variation and inclination
of the magnetic needle, the intensity of the magnetic
force, and how far the needle would be affected by the
presence of atmospherical electricity. Various astro-
nomical and meteorological instruments were also pro-
vided, as well as those for determining the direction and
velocity of the tides and currents, deep-sea soundings, &c.
Among the instruments supplied was a timepiece and
pendulum, by the vibrations of which latter, in a given
1818.] THE SHIPS REACH LERWICK 93
time, the form and figure of the earth was to be deter-
mined. No care or expense was spared in the equip-
ment of the vessels, and nothing that the commander
asked for, which it was thought might promote the
efficiency of the expedition, was refused.
On the recommendation of the President and Council
of the Royal Society, Mr. Fisher, a member of Cambridge
University, and a gentleman well versed in mathematics
and in other branches of natural science, was appointed
to the Dorothea in the capacity of astronomer and
naturalist.
The ships sailed out of the Thames on the 25th April
1818, and arrived at Lerwick, in the Shetland Islands,
on the 1st May. Here, in consequence of a serious leak
that had developed itself on the passage, the Trent was
beached at high-water, and subjected to a thorough
examination. Several rents in the planks were dis-
covered in various parts of the ship, and these were re-
paired as well as the means at their disposal would
permit, but the principal leak, unfortunately, remained
undiscovered, in spite of the strenuous exertions that
were made to find it. This was naturally very morti-
fying to Franklin and his officers. The service on which
they were about to engage was of such a nature as to
preclude all but stout, well-built, and, above all, tight
ships being engaged in it. It was therefore a serious
matter to them that they should at the outset embark
in a leaky vessel, more especially when the leak was of
such magnitude as to necessitate the employment of the
men during half their watches at the pumps to keep her
free. This was, it must be acknowledged, a very dis-
tressing state of affairs, and it was rendered all the more
so in a ship employed on Arctic service, where the men
94 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
are kept, night and day, constantly at work, and where
a vessel is so severely handled by the ice, and subjected
to such great pressures as to make even those that are
strongly built leak.
Having done their utmost to remedy the defect, the
expedition sailed from Lerwick on the ioth May, and
crossing the Arctic Circle a few days afterwards, they
experienced the novelty of beholding the midnight sun,
and of enjoying the hitherto unknown experience of con-
tinual daylight. On the 24th, Cherie or Bear Island,
as it is more frequently called, was sighted, and shortly
afterwards the ships were separated in consequence of
thick weather and a violent south-west gale. They met
again, however, in a few days, a short distance from
their previously arranged rendezvous, in Magdalena
Bay.
Prior to this temporary separation they were, for the
first time, made acquainted with the difficulties and the
novelty of navigating their ships through a loose pack.
Indeed, some of the streams of ice through which they
had to thread their way, were of such a nature, that
combined with the thickness of the weather, necessitated
their laying-to until the latter should moderate. Their
position at this time is thus referred to by the first
lieutenant of the Trent : —
" The weather was now very severe ; the snow fell in heavy
showers, and several tons' weight of ice accumulated about
the sides of the brig, and formed a complete casing to the
planks, which received an additional layer at each plunge of
the vessel. So great indeed was the accumulation about the
bows, that we were obliged to cut it away repeatedly with
axes, to relieve the bowsprit from the enormous weight that
was attached to it ; and the ropes were so thickly covered
1318.] MAGDALENA BAY SURVEYED. 95
with ice, that it was necessary to beat them with large sticks
to keep them in a state of readiness for any evolution that
might be rendered necessary, either by the appearance of ice
to leeward, or by a change of wind."
Encountering what they had every reason to believe
was the main body of the ice, extending in one vast un-
broken plain along the northern horizon, and finding
it absolutely impenetrable, it was determined to wait
patiently for a few days in Magdalena Bay, so as to
give the pack time to break up and disperse. A wise
resolution, considering the early season of the year,
namely June 3rd, at which they found themselves in
such a comparatively high latitude.
During the stay of the ships at this anchorage, the
officers were very actively, and profitably, engaged in
surveying the harbour, taking observations in various
branches of science, shooting excursions, and, we may
rest assured, in keeping a constant and vigilant watch
on the movements of the pack, from some convenient
look-out station. Here, on the iron-bound shores of
Spitzbergen, with its icy peaks and snow-clad valleys,
Franklin was first made acquainted with the uninviting
aspect of Arctic scenery. The grim and inhospitable
appearance of the surrounding country fascinated the
tyro in Polar exploration, and made him all the more
eager to further explore the hidden mysteries of the
sealed North Land. It was, in all probability, the result
of this, his first voyage to the Arctic regions, that made
Franklin, the already skilful sailor and talented .sur-
veyor, one of the greatest Arctic travellers that the
world has ever known. How different, he must have
thought, was the appearance of the anchorage at Magda-
lena Bay, with its dreary barren shores fringed by long
96 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
snow-covered valleys and rugged sterile mountains, be-
tween which lay huge milk-white glaciers, their opaque
surfaces glistening in the rays of the midnight sun, to
the luxuriant vegetation and tropical scenery of the
land he had been accustomed to gaze on, while serving
under Flinders in the Southern Hemisphere. It was
indeed a marvellous change of scenery. In spite, how-
ever, of the bleakness and sterility of their surroundings,
the anchorage at Magdalena Bay was rendered cheerful
by the song of countless birds peculiar to those regions ;
myriads of little auks, or rotges flew, in long and never-
ending processions to their breeding-places on the sides
of the cliffs, whilst guillemots, cormorants, gulls, and
other aquatic birds enlivened the bay by their presence.
Groups of walruses were also seen basking in the sun as
they stretched their huge, ungainly forms on loose pieces
of ice, while the presence of numerous seals doubtless
afforded pastime to the sportsmen, as well as fresh food
for the officers' mess.
During their detention in Magdalena Bay, the mem-
bers of the expedition witnessed, at various times, the
breaking-off of immense fragments of ice from the
parent glacier. On one occasion this disruption was
attended with some little risk and danger, for one of
their boats, with its crew, was carried by the wave en-
gendered by the fall of ice into the water, a distance of
nearly a hundred feet, when it was washed up on the
beach and badly stove. On another occasion, Buchan
and Franklin were together in a boat examining the
terminal face of one of these glaciers, when they sud-
denly heard a deafening report, somewhat similar to the
simultaneous discharge of many heavy pieces of artillery ;
on looking up, they perceived to their horror an enor-
SPITZBERGEK ^CT
Stale 1 8 HOOOlXl 12l<m liu
" ^
\ x SlW™
"TTWTTT
1818.] CREATION OF AN ICEBERG. 97
mous piece of the glacier sliding down into the sea from
a height of at least two hundred feet. This was accom-
panied by a loud grinding noise and the overflow of a
large volume of water, which having previously formed
and lodged in the fissures of the glacier, now made its
escape in numerous cascades. The boat in which the
two commanders were seated was kept with her head to
seaward, and by this precaution they succeeded in avert-
ing a disaster which would probably have ensued in con-
sequence of the violent agitation of the water, and the
succession of heavy rollers that swept across the bay, the
roaring of which was heard at a distance of four miles.
The fragment that had been detached, and whose plunge
into the water had caused all this commotion, disap-
peared entirely for the space of some minutes, during
which time nothing was to be seen but the surface of
the water, violently agitated and covered with foam and
clouds of spray. Suddenly it appeared, shooting up
rapidly to the height of a hundred feet above the sea,
with torrents of water pouring down its sides; then,
after rocking about for some moments, it rolled over,
eventually becoming quiescent, and drifting out to sea
under the influence of wind and tide as a newly-formed
iceberg. It was ascertained to be a quarter of a mile
in circumference, and its height sixty feet above the
water. Its weight was computed at about 421,640
tons.
On the 7 1 1 1 June the ships sailed out of Magdalena
Bay and steered a northward course, in order to resume
the examination of the pack. It was found in much
the same state and condition as they had left it, namely,
impenetrable. At this time, owing to the wind sud-
denly failing, the ships were left helplessly becalmed and
98 LIFE OF SIK JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
quite unmanageable in close proximity to the pack,
which, in consequence of a heavy swell that prevailed,
was in a violent state of agitation. In spite of every
effort to prevent it, the ships were driven into the ice,
where they experienced some rough treatment from the
heaving pack. Towards morning a light breeze sprang
up, which enabled them to effect their escape from a
somewhat critical and perilous position, after a night of
great anxiety and incessant toil.
Having unsuccessfully attempted to find an opening in
the ice to the westward, Captain Buchan came to the con-
clusion that the best chance for the successful accomplish-
ment of the enterprise, was by keeping close to Spitsber-
gen, so with this object in view the course of the ships was
once more shaped to the eastward. On June ioth they
sighted Prince Charles's Foreland, and on the following
morning were off Cloven Cliff, where they were extremely
gratified to find a navigable lane of water existing be-
tween the land and the main body of the pack. Think-
ing that this channel would possibly lead to an open
and navigable sea, the ships boldly entered it, but had
barely passed Red Bay before the ice closed in, the
channel was blocked, and the ships were helplessly
caught and beset. In this position, without being able
to extricate themselves, the vessels remained for a period
of thirteen days, when, under the influence of a fresh
north-east breeze, the ice loosened, and they succeeded
in getting into open water. The place where the ships
were beset, was in about the same locality in which
Hudson, Baffin, Poole, Phipps, and other navigators
had invariably been stopped.
Their late besetment had, at any rate, one very bene-
ficial effect, for by its means they were led to the dig-
1818.] VESSELS ANCHOR IN FAIR HAVEN. 99
covery of the cause of the leak in the Trent, which had
given them so much trouble and anxiety ever since
they left England. 1 It appears that one night when
they were lying quietly in the ice, the surgeon's assist-
ant thought he detected the noise of water rushing
into the ship below where he slept. On this being re-
ported, the spirit-room was at once cleared, and on cut-
ting through the inside lining of the ship, the water
poured through in a stream fully four feet in height. It
was then found that a bolt, through the culpable neglect
of some dockyard shipwright, had been left out, and the
hole being covered with pitch, its omission was not at the
time detected. The defect was at once rectified, and thev
had the happiness to find henceforth that the Trent was
as tight and safe as any ship afloat; but the wretched
shipwright, whose negligence had caused them so much
wearisome labour and fatigue, was not easily or quickly
forgotten, or forgiven, by the men, who up to this time
had been constantly employed at the pumps during more
than half their watches ; the discovery and subsequent
stoppage of the leak was therefore a matter of great joy
and relief to all concerned.
On June the 28th the ships anchored in Fair Haven,
in order to await a more favourable opportunity of
pushing northwards; they hoped that by the display
of a little patience the pack would in a short time
loosen and enable them to proceed. The anchorage at
Fair Haven is free from hidden dangers of any kind, and
is tolerably well sheltered from south and westerly winds,
but is exposed to the north. Here they were fortunate
enough to obtain some fresh meat in the shape of rein-
deer, about forty of these animals falling victims to the
1 Sec page 93.
100 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
prowess of the sportsmen of the expedition. Four were
driven into the water, captured, and taken alive to the
ships, but the unfortunate beasts were so wild, that they
broke their limbs in their frantic efforts to escape, and
had to be shot. Large numbers of eider ducks were
also procured, and afforded a very welcome change to
the ship's provisions on which they had for so long been
subsisting.
On the 6th July the ships again put to sea, and sailed
as far north as 8o° 15', but here again they were stopped
by the same impenetrable barrier of ice that had already,
on moi*e than one occasion, so successfully impeded their
advance. In their endeavours to extricate themselves
from the loose fragments by which they were surrounded,
the ships received some rather severe blows from the
larger pieces. On the following day they had the in-
tense pleasure of seeing the pack loosen, exhibiting
lanes of water radiating in all directions through it.
All was now bustle and activity, and the wind being
favourable, the ships crowded on all possible sail, and
pushed onwards with joyful anticipations of success.
But changes occur very quickly and very suddenly
in ice-encumbered waters, and bitter and keen disap-
pointment soon followed their short-lived joyous aspira-
tions, for in a few short hours the channels of water,
which they thought might lead them even to the Pole
itself, gradually diminished in size, until they disappeared
altogether, and the ice, with its accustomed and erratic
rapidity of motion, encircled the two ships so closely
that they were soon completely beset.
For the succeeding three weeks they remained in a
perfectly helpless state, although strenuous efforts were
made to free themselves, by boring through the ice
1818.] ROUGHLY HANDLED BY THE ICE. 101
whenever the pack loosened, and by dragging and warp-
ing the ships whenever opportunities presented them-
selves , in this way they succeeded in making some
slight progress in a northerly direction, until, however,
they discovei'ed, to their great mortiiication, that a strong
current was setting them to the southward, at a greater
rate than they were advancing in the opposite direction.
The following extract from Captain Beechey's narra-
tive will give some faint idea regarding the dangers and
difficulties they were at this time exposed to : —
'■On the evening of the ioth the Trent sustained a squeeze
which made her rise four feet and heel over five streaks ;
and on the 15th and 16th both vessels suffered damage,
especially the Dorothea, from her being larger and more wall-
sided than the Trent. On that occasion we observed a field
fifteen feet in thickness break up, and the pieces pile upon
each other to a great height, until they upset when they rolled
over with a tremendous crash. The ice near the ships was
piled up above their bulwarks, to the great danger of the bow-
sprit and upper works. Fortunately the vessels rose to the
pressure, or they must have had their sides forced in ; the
Trent received her greatest damage upon the quarter, and was
so twisted that the doors of all the cabins flew open, and the
panels of some started in the frames, while her false stern-post
moved three inches, and her timbers cracked to a most serious
extent. The Dorothea suffered still more : some of her beams
were sprung, and two planks on the lower deck, were split
fore and aft and doubled up, and she otherwise sustained
serious injury in her hull. It was in vain that we attempted
any relief, our puny efforts were not even felt, though con-
tinued for eight hours with unabated zeal ; and it was not until
the tide changed that the smallest effect was produced. When,
however, that occurred, the vessels arighted and settled in the
water to their proper draft."
It was during this besetment in the pack that the
102 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
ships reached their most northerly position, but, in con-
sequence of the thick state of the weather, it was only
ascertained by dead reckoning; and as there was an
unfortunate difference in the calculations of the two
vessels, the Dorothea computing the latitude to be 8o°
31', and the Trent making it 8o° 37', the mean of the
two results, viz., 8o° 34', was the highest position claimed.
Captain Buchan now resolved to examine the edge
of the ice to the westward, having so signally, and so
repeatedly, failed in all his efforts to advance either in
a northerly or easterly direction. No sooner had this
determination been made known, and the necessary
orders for acting upon it been issued, than the two
ships were caught in a furious gale of wind, which
necessitated their resorting to the desperate expedient of
taking shelter in the pack, a step that can only be
justified as an extreme measure, and as offering the
sole chance of escaping destruction. In order to protect
his ship from the heavy ice floes that skirted the pack,
and through which he must necessarily pass, Franklin,
fully alive to the perilous nature of his contemplated
action, gave orders to cut up one of the largest hemp
cables, in lengths of about thirty feet ; these pieces, with
some walrus hides and iron plates, were then placed
round the outside of the ship to act as fenders so as to
protect the hull from the huge fragments of ice with
which it would have to come into contact. He also gave
orders for the masts and other spars to be secured with
additional tackles, and all hatchways to be battened
down. Everything being in readiness, Franklin, in a loud
clear voice, ordered the helm to be put up, and the brig
in obedience to the action flew round and dashed before
the gale towards the pack, which presented "one un-
1818.] SEEK SHELTER IN THE PACK. 103
broken line of furious breakers, in which immense pieces
of ice were heaving and subsiding with the waves, and
dashing together with a violence, which nothing ap-
parently but a solid body could withstand," occasioning
such an uproar and noisy confusion, that it was with
difficulty that Franklin could make his orders heard
by the men, though given in his customary cool, bold,
and decisive manner. As the brig dashed into that
awful seething mass of ice, Captain Beechey tells us
that—
'•Each person instinctively secured his own hold, and,
with his eyes fixed upon the masts, awaited in breathless
anxiety the moment of concussion. It soon arrived — the
brig, cutting her way through the light ice, came in violent
contact with the main body. In an instant we all lost our
footing, the masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking
timbers from below bespoke a pressure which was calculated
to awaken our serious apprehensions. The vessel staggered
under the shock, and for a moment seemed to recoil ; but the
next wave curling up under her counter, drove her about her
own length within the margin of the ice, where she gave one
roll, and was immediately thrown broadside to the wind by
the succeeding wave, which beat furiously against her stern,
and brought her lee side in contact with the main body, leav-
ing her weather side exposed at the same time to a piece of ice
about twice her own dimensions. . . .
" Literally tossed from piece to piece, we had nothing left
but patiently to abide the issue, for we could scarcely keep
our feet, much less render any assistance to the vessel. The
motion was so great that the ship's bell, which in the heaviest
gale of wind had never struck by itself, now tolled so con-
tinually, that it was ordered to be muffled, for the purpose
of escaping the unpleasant association it was calculated to
produce."
By making more sail, Franklin succeeded in pushing
104 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
his vessel farther into the pack, and this greatly improved
their situation. In about four hours the gale moderated,
the swell subsided, and the weather clearing, those on
board the Trent were much relieved by seeing their
consort not far from them, for great apprehensions had
been felt during the gale conceiving her safety. They
soon ascertained by signal that she bad also suffered
very severely in her encounter with the ice, and was
in a somewhat crippled condition. On the following
morning open water was reached, and the two battered
ships, in a leaky, disabled, and almost sinking state,
sought refuge in Fair Haven, in order to ascertain the
extent of their injuries, and, if possible, repair their
damages. The Trent though seriously damaged had sus-
tained less injury than the Dorothea, which latter ship
had the greater part of her timbers broken, besides
several of her beams sprung. The larboard side of the
ship, it was found, had been forced in by constant
collisions with the ice; the spirit-room, which was in
the centre of the ship, was crushed in ; while the casks
stowed in the hold were actually stove ! It is hardly
possible to imagine how the ship, after sustaining such
serious injuries, was capable of remaining afloat.
As it was quite out of the question that the Doro-
thea in her present condition could again risk an
encounter with the ice, but must either return to
England or be abandoned, Franklin tried very hard
to be allowed to proceed alone, in the Trent, in the
execution of the service on which they were engaged ;
but as his vessel was in nearly as unseaworthy a condi-
tion as her consort, Captain Buchan wisely declined to
entertain the request, giving as his reason that the
Dorothea was not in a fit state to undertake the voyage
1818.] RESULTS OF THE VOYAGE. 105
to England unless accompanied by another vessel. In
consequence of the unserviceable condition of the two
ships, it was reluctantly, but prudently, decided, to
abandon all further attempts at discovery, and to return
to England as soon as the vessels could be repaired
and made seaworthy. Indeed, any other course would
have been as unwise as it would be hazardous. During
their stay at Fair Haven, Franklin was busily occupied,
not only in superintending the repairs of the Trent, but
also in surveying and projecting a plan of the anchorage
and adjacent islands, and also in assisting Mr. Fisher to
determine the geographical position of the place. The
ships put to sea on the 30th August, and after making
a cursory examination of the ice to the northward and
westward, steered homewards ; after a somewhat long
and anxious passage, they reached Deptford on October
22nd, and were paid out of commission on the 14th of
the following month.
The results of this voyage were of a negative kind ;
the expedition examined about the same extent of the
pack edge as did Phipps in 1773, and found the ice
equally as impenetrable as he did. It was, however, the
first expedition sent to the Arctic regions during the
present century, and it was the forerunner of those
subsequently despatched by England in search of the
north-west passage.
Thus ended this plucky attempt to reach the North
Pole, in which everything was achieved that human skill,
perseverance, and courage could, under the peculiar cir-
cumstances, have effected. Dangers and difficulties of a
novel and a terrible description, were successfully grap-
pled with, and hardships and privations of no ordinary
kind, were uncomplainingly endured by that small bui
106 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1818.
heroic band that sailed under the leadership of Buchan
and Franklin. The failure to reach a high latitude was
due to that vast barrier of ice, which has always proved
an insuperable obstacle to advance in a northerly direc-
tion in the neighbourhood of Spitzbergen. This great
belt of impenetrable ice, has been invariably met with
by all, in a greater or less degree, who have endeavoured
to push northwards, and it has so far successfully defied
penetration. One most important result of this expedi-
tion, was the experience gained by Franklin in Arctic
exploration, for it was during this voyage that he won
his spurs as a Polar explorer, and gained that insight
into ice navigation which subsequently proved of in-
estimable value to his country and to the science of
geography.
CHAPTER VIII.
FRANKLIN'S FIRST LAND JOURNEY.
1819-1822.
" How shall I admire your heroicke courage
Ye marine worthies, beyond names of worthinesse? "
— PrjBCHAS.
Tiie return of the two expeditions in 1818, although they
had been unsuccessful in accomplishing the main objects
for which they had been despatched, viz., the discovery of
the North Pole, and the achievement of the long-sought-
for north-west passage, so far from throwing cold water
on the prosecution of further research in high latitudes,
appeared to stimulate the Government into renewed
action in the same direction. The reports of the leaders
of the two expeditions were well considered and dis-
cussed, and with such a satisfactory result as to induce
the Government to decide upon sending out another
expedition to continue the work of exploration to the
westward by Baffin's Bay, while a party was to be sent
to explore by land along the northern shore of Arctic
America.
The command of the first-named expedition was in-
trusted to Lieutenant Parry, who had recently been
employed in command of the second ship in the late
expedition under Captain Ross. The vessels appointed
to carry out this service were the Herta and Griper,
107
108 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
Lieutenant Liddon being placed in command of the last-
named ship. They sailed on the nth of May 1819,
with instructions to proceed up Baffin's Bay, and so
endeavour to reach the Pacific, through any channel or
opening that might be discovered to the westward.
The other expedition, although it was in a measure
intended to act in conjunction with Lieutenant Parry,
was of a totally different character, for it was organised
with the object of penetrating by land to the Arctic
Sea, at or about the mouth of the Coppermine River;
thence it was to trace the shore of the north coast of
America in an easterly direction, and, if circumstances
should admit, to act in concert with Commander Parry,
in the event of falling in with that officer.
In the choice of leaders for these two expeditions,
it is not surprising to find that Franklin should be the
one selected for the conduct of that which must, of
necessity, be of a particularly arduous and perilous
nature. He had now made a name in the scientific
world, and he had also established a reputation for him-
self in the navy as an accomplished, skilful, and energetic
officer. That such a man was not permitted to remain
long inactive is not to be wondered at, especially when
work of such a congenial nature as geographical ex-
ploration was to be undertaken. The man who had
braved the elements in their fiercest moods, and who
had faced death in many forms in all parts of the
world and under various conditions, was not likely to
remain unemployed when such interesting and hazar-
dous service as exploration in high latitudes was re-
quired to be carried out. Who so fit to undertake the
conduct of such an expedition as John Franklin ? and
who so competent to conduct an enterprise requiring
1822.] FRANKLIN'S COMPANIONS. 109
coinage, energy, and ability as the late talented com-
mander of the Trent ? It was, therefore, almost a fore-
gone conclusion, when the expedition was decided on,
that it should be intrusted to the guidance of Lieutenant
Franklin. The only wonder is, that he was not promoted
to the rank of commander in order to lead such an
important enterprise ; for, in spite of his excellent ser-
vices in the junior branches of the navy, he had, at the
time of his appointment to the command of the proposed
expedition, served no less than eleven years in the grade
of a lieutenant, eight of which had been actual service
in a ship at sea.
With Franklin was associated Dr. John Richardson, a
surgeon in the royal navy and a gentleman of consider-
able scientific attainments; also Messrs. George Back and
Robert Hood, Admiralty midshipmen, both of whom were
accomplished artists. Mr. Back had already seen service
in the Arctic regions, having served with Franklin in the
Trent, in which ship he had displayed so much zeal and
ability, that his old commander had no hesitation in
selecting him to take part in an enterprise which, he was
well aware, would prove both trying and hazardous. They
were accompanied by John Hepburn, an old man-of-war's
man, as their sole attendant. It was to the exertions
of this gallant fellow that some of the members of the
expedition, during the latter part of their journey, under
Divine Providence, owed the preservation of their lives.
He was a splendid specimen of a British sailor, steady,
faithful, willing, always cheerful, and possessing bulldog
tenacity of purpose.
It must not be forgotten that, at this time, the
northern coast of North America, from Icy Cape north
of Bering's Strait, as far as Hudson's Bay •" the east,
110 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819.
was practically unknown. In two places only had the
veil been lifted along the northern shore of Arctic Ame-
rica; these geographical feats were accomplished by
two officials of the Hudson's Bay Company, Messrs.
Hearne and Mackenzie, who, at different times, had
successfully worked their way to the coast, and who were
the only white men who had ever beheld the Arctic
Sea from the north coast of America. With the excep-
tion of the two positions gained by these travellers, a
line of coast, extending over eighty degrees of longi-
tude, was an absolute blank on our maps and charts.
One of these explorers, Samuel Hearne, had been
despatched from Fort Churchill, a post belonging to
the Company in Hudson's Bay, in December 1770,
in consequence of vague reports that had, from time
to time, been received from the Indians, relative to
the existence of an extensive sea to the northward.
He was ordered to proceed to the coast, directing his
route as far as practicable along the banks of a large
river which was known to flow to the northward, and
which had been named the Coppermine, on account of
the reports that had been brought in by the Indians
of the discovery of that metal in its neighbourhood.
He was also directed to express his opinion on the
possibility of using this sea, if he succeeded in reaching
it, as a practicable route for the Company's ships, and
to report further on the territory through which he
journeyed, relative to its capabilities and value as a fur-
producing country. He was accompanied on this expedi-
tion by several Indians, who acted as guides ; he was the
only white man in the party, and he appears to have been,
more or less, in the hands of the natives, being entirely
dependent on them both for guidance and sustenance.
1822.] ESKIMOS MASSACRED BY INDIANS. Ill
llearne returned to Fort Churchill after an adventur-
ous journey of nineteen months' duration, during which
time he succeeded in reaching the sea at the mouth of
the Coppermine River. This position he fixed with a fair
amount of accuracy, considering the means at his disposal.
Near the mouth of the river they discovered a party
of Eskimos, encamped in their summer tents, and
peacefully engaged in hunting seals and fishing. Under
cover of darkness these poor people were all brutally mas-
sacred by the Indians in their tents, in spite of Hearne's
earnest pleadings and remonstrances. It appears that
a bitter feud had existed, from time immemorial, be-
tween the Indians of the plains and the Eskimos of
the coast, and that no lapse of time had ever been suffi-
cient to heal the breach. A rapid near the spot where
this outrage occurred was called by llearne Bloody Fall.
The hardships and privations experienced by Hearne
during this long and remarkable journey were very
severe.
Mackenzie made a somewhat similar journey in 1789
to the shores of the Polar Sea, during which he success-
fully traced the river that now bears his name to its
embouchure. These were the only white men who had
traversed the barren lands of North America northward
to the sea; Captain Cook, it will be remembered, had
only succeeded in advancing in his ship a very short
distance to the northward of Bering's Strait in 1776.
The instructions that were issued to Lieutenant
Franklin were, briefly, as follows: — lie was to proceed
to Hudson's Bay; thence he was to travel northward
with the object of determining astronomically the posi-
tions of all capes, headlands, bays, harbours, and rivers,
and also to sketch in the trend of the coastline of
112 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
North America, between the eastern extremity of that
continent and the mouth of the Coppermine River. He
was left at liberty to select, according to circumstances,
the best route that would enable him to reach the shores
of the Arctic Sea in the shortest possible time.
In the adoption of the route to be followed, he was
in a great measure to be governed by the advice and
information he might obtain from the officers of the
Hudson's Bay Company that he should meet during the
course of his wanderings. These officials had been re-
quested to afford Lieutenant Franklin all the assistance
in their power towards promoting generally the success
of the enterprise, and especially in the way of providing
him with necessaries for the journey, and in procuring
an escort of Indians to accompany him as guides,
hunters, and as a means of protection against the
Eskimos, or any predatory hostile bands of Indians
that might be fallen in with. Franklin was further
directed to deposit any information he might consider
of importance in conspicuous places along the coast, for
the guidance of Lieutenant Parry, in the event of that
officer being successful in reaching the Arctic shores of
North America with his two ships. He was liberally
supplied with instruments for determining the dip and
variation of the magnetic needle and intensity of the
magnetic force, also others for registering the tempera-
ture, and other important meteorological observations.
On reaching the mouth of the Coppermine River, he
was ordered to institute inquiries relative to the presence
of native copper, which, it had been alleged, had been
discovered in the locality, several specimens having been
brought by the Indians to the Hudson's Bay posts.
He was to endeavour, if practicable, to visit and explore
1822.] ARDUOUS NATURE OF THE ENTERPRISE. 113
those places, so as to obtain specimens in ,<itu, and so
afford Dr. Richardson an opportunity of making " such
observations as might be useful in a commercial point of
view or interesting to the science of mineralogy."
It will thus be seen that geographical exploration was
not the sole object of the expedition, but the interest of
science in other branches was also to be carefully studied.
The task that Franklin undertook to accomplish was
not only difficult, but it was an extremely hazardous
one, for it entailed a journey through an unknown and
barren country, of the resources of which he was totally
ignorant ; and yet he was well aware that he would be
entirely dependent, not only for the bare necessaries of
life, but for the existence of himself and that of his party,
on the products of the chase. He was also not ignorant of
the fact that he and his companions would be exposed to
the merciless rigours and attendant hai'dships of more
than one Arctic winter. The magnitude and novelty of
the enterprise, and the possible dangers and privations
that would be experienced, rendered it, however, all the
more acceptable and fascinating to the gallant little
band that set forth full of resolution, determined to
carry to a successful issue, and to the best of their
ability, the work intrusted to them.
Everything being in readiness, the expedition em-
barked at Gravesend on board the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's ship Prince of Wales, the master of which had
been directed to convey Lieutenant Franklin and his
party as far as York Factory in Hudson's Bay. She
dropped down the Thames on the 23rd May 1819, but,
in consequence of bad weather and head winds, did not
reach fttromness in the Orkney Islands until June 3rd.
Here Franklin engaged the services of four men to
114 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
accompany hiin in the capacity of boatmen whilst ascend-
ing the rivers in the Hudson's Bay Territory. More were
required, but there was a general unwillingness evinced
on the part of the men to join the expedition, on account
of the supposed dangerous service on which they would
be employed.
On the afternoon of the 16th the Prince of Wales put
to sea, and commenced her voyage across the Atlantic to
Hudson's Bay. The passage was a somewhat protracted
one, for it was not until the 7th of August that Resolution
Island, situated off the north extreme of the entrance to
Hudson's Strait, was sighted. The wind dying away, left
the ship drifting about helplessly at the mercy of the
strong and variable currents that usually exist in that
locality, and they had a very narrow escape from ship-
wreck. The circumstance is thus alluded to by Franklin : —
"At half-past twelve we had the alarming view of a barren
rugged shore within a few yards, towering over the mastheads.
Almost immediately afterwards the ship struck violently on a
point of rocks projecting from the island ; and the ship's side
was brought so near to the shore, that poles were prepared to
push her off. This blow displaced the rudder and raised it
several inches. ... A gentle swell freed the ship from this
perilous situation, but the current hurried us along in contact
with the rocky shore, and the prospect was most alarming.
On the outward bow was perceived a rugged and precipitous
cliff, whose summit was hid in the fog, and the vessel's head
was pointed towards the bottom of a small bay into which
we were rapidly driving. There now seemed to be no proba-
bility of escaping shipwreck, being without wind and having
the rudder in its present useless state."
At this moment, however, the ship again struck
in passing over a ledge of rocks, and by a curious and
lucky coincidence, the second shock had the effect of
1822.] THE SHIP ENTERS HUDSON'S STRAIT. 115
replacing the rudder, and rendering it again service-
able. A light breeze springing up at the same time.
Idled the sails, and they were thus enabled to draw
gradually, but surely, away from the danger. The ship
had, however, made but little progress before the current
forced her in the direction of a large grounded iceberg,
against the steep and rugged sides of which she was
driven with such amazing rapidity and force, that they
expected every moment to see the masts go by the board.
Fortunately this particular danger was also averted,
and the ship again escaped destruction, but she was left
in such a crippled and leaky condition that the crew were
unable to keep her free of water by the pumps alone,
and the officers and passengers were obliged, in order
to keep her afloat, to bale the water out with buckets.
On the morning of the 8th, the water had gained to
such an extent, that upwards of five feet was reported in
the hold. Luckily the carpenters were able to get at
some of the damaged parts j these were temporarily
patched up, and a sail being drawn underneath that
portion of the injured part which could not be repaired,
the influx of water was materially diminished, and the
leaks eventually mastered.
On the evening of the ioth, the ship entered Hudson's
Strait, and without any hindrance from ice — indeed
without even seeing any — reached the Savage Islands
the following day, where they remained for a few hours
for the purpose of bartering with the Eskimos, who
came flown with their sledges and kayaks laden with
skins and other products of the country. In conse-
quence of the entire absence of ice in the strait, they
were compelled to stretch over to the Labrador coast in
order to replenish the ship with water. On the 19th
116 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1319-
Digges Islands were passed, and on the 30th the Prince
of Wales anchored off York Factory, where the mem-
bers of the expedition landed. Here they obtained
from the Hudson's Bay Company the use of one of
their large transport boats, in order to enable them to
continue their journey, for with the amount of stores, &c,
they were compelled to take, the ordinary mode of travel-
ling in canoes was quite out of the question. They were
also fortunate enough to secure the services of an experi-
enced steersman ; the remainder of the crew was com-
posed of the men hired for the purpose at Stromness.
The boats in use by the Hudson's Bay Company for
the transport of their goods on the rivers and lakes in
their Territory, are called York boats. They were (and
even are, for the same description of boat is in use in
the present day) constructed as lightly as possible, with a
view to navigating shallow rivers, and were consequently
of exceptionally light draft, barely drawing, when loaded
with a heavy cargo of furs, more than about twelve
inches of water. They were, and continue to be, exten-
sively used in conveying the peltries and necessary stores
from one trading post to another. They are about
forty feet in length, sharp at both ends and very full
amidships, requiring about nine or twelve men as a crew.
When the rapids are not too fierce, these boats when un-
loaded, can be dragged and pushed along with poles;
but where the rapids are, from their velocity, impas-
sable, the cargoes have to be landed, and, with the boats,
" portaged " round the falls. This, with such unwieldy
craft, is oftentimes excessively laborious. Going down
stream, and also when on the lakes, they are propelled by
oars ; but when pursuing their course against the current,
they are invariably tracked by the crew, who, walking
1822.] ROUTE SELECTED FOR LAND JOURNEY. 117
along one bank of the stream, drag the boat after them.
Although fitted with rudders, they are usually guided by
a large steer-oar. I have been thus minute in describ-
ing these boats, for it was in one of them, that Franklin
and his companions accomplished the greater part of
their journey towards the Arctic Ocean.
It is almost needless to say that the members of the
expedition were received with kindness and courtesy by
the Hudson's Bay officials stationed at York Factory,
who did all in their power, by communicating with their
brother officers stationed at the various posts in that por-
tion of the country through which Franklin must neces-
sarily travel, to facilitate the despatch of the party, and to
promote the success of the enterprise, besides assisting
them with all the available means at their disposal.
The route selected by Franklin, after due consultation
with the acknowledged authorities on the subject, was
the one by the Great Slave Lake. By the adoption of
this particular route, the expedition would pass several
of the Hudson's Bay stations that had been estab-
lished for the collection of skins, &c, ami they would
thus be able to keep their communication open with
the outer world, for a longer period than would other-
wise be the case.
The necessary preparations for the journey having
been completed, the expedition started from York Factory
on the 9th of September 181 9, and after a toilsome
journey of nearly 700 miles, reached Cumberland House,
on the Saskatchewan River, on the 23rd of the follow-
ing month. 1
1 For about 400 miles of this distance, namely, from Fork Factory
to Norway House, situated in the immediate neighbourhood <>f tha
shores of Lake Winnipeg, the writer of those pa-es lias, quite
118 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
The voyage thus far was not altogether devoid of
exciting incident or danger, for on the 2nd of October
Franklin had a narrow escape of losing his life by
drowning, having accidentally lost his footing whilst
standing on a rock endeavouring to force the boat up
a rapid \ falling into the river, he was rapidly swept
away in the swirling torrent. In consequence of the
rocks being worn smooth by attrition, the result of the
action of the water, his efforts to regain the bank were
ineffectual, and he was carried down the stream for a
considerable distance. Fortunately he succeeded, after
a time, in arresting his progress by grasping the branch
of a willow, and he was eventually rescued from his
perilous and critical position by some of the Hudson's
Bay people, who hurried to his assistance.
On arrival at Cumberland House, he found, to his
great mortification, that the guides, hunters, interpreters,
recently, followed along the same road that was traversed by Franklin
and his companions ; tracking up the same rivers, paddling over the
same lakes, breasting the same rapids, and transporting his light
birch-bark canoe and necessary impedimenta, along the same portages
over winch they transported their more cumbersome boat and heavier
cargo. He can testify to the excellence of the sketches that were
taken by some of the members of the expedition (one of which, Trout
Falls, is here reproduced) of various parts of the route, and of the
faithful accuracy of the description of the country through which
they travelled. This description, written seventy years ago, is now
so applicable to the country recently visited by the writer, that
it might have been written yesterday ! The running survey of the
rivers ascended by the expedition was carried out by Lieutenant
Frankliu and his assistants, and remains unaltered and unchallenged
on the maps of the present day.
It may be interesting to remark that at Norway House, the writer
found a sundial in the exact position that Lieutenant Franklin had
placed it in the garden of the Chief Factor at that post in 1819. On
the leaden dial plate is engraved the initials J. H. F., which, it is
asserted, was the work of Sir John Franklin's own hands, and there
is no reason to doubt the accuracy of the assertion.
1822.]
PUSH ON TO FORT CHIPEWYAN.
119
&c, whose services he hoped to obtain, were not to be
had for any consideration. He, therefore, resolved to
proceed at once to Fort Chipewyan, another Hudson's
Bay post, situated on the shore of Lake Athabasca,
where, he was informed, there would be no difficulty in
obtaining the services of men who were intimately
THE EXPEDITION MAKING A rOETAGE ROUND TUODT FAIJ.S.
acquainted with the nature and resources of the country
lying to the northward of the Great Slave Lake.
In accordance with this resolution, leaving Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood to pass the winter at Cum-
berland House, Franklin, accompanied by Mr. Back and
Hepburn, started on the 18th January 1820, with a
couple of dug-sledges, and with only fifteen days' pro-
visions. Before leaving, Franklin had inado the neces-
sary arrangements for the Stromness men, who did
120 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
not evince any inclination to accompany the expedition
further, to return via York Factory to England.
This trip to Fort Chipewyan was a bold undertaking
on Franklin's part, for the time selected for making the
journey was in the very depth of winter. The cold was
intense, for we read that the mercury in their thermo-
meters remained frozen during the entire journey ! The
privations endured may be imagined, when we read in
the official narrative such sentences as the following : —
" Provisions becoming scanty ; dogs without food, ex-
cept a little burnt leather." — "Night miserably cold;
tea froze in the tin pots before we could drink it."
On the ist February Carlton House was reached, and
here they remained for the space of a week, to recruit
their strength and to recover from the severities of the
journey. They left again on the 8th, and after visiting a
few Hudson's Bay posts that lay on their line of route,
they eventually reached Fort Chipewyan, on Lake
Athabasca, on the 26th March, having traversed a dis-
tance of 857 miles since parting from their companions
at Cumberland House. Here they busily occupied them-
selves during the remainder of the winter and spring in
making the necessary preparations for the continuance
of the voyage.
Having been joined by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood,
who had been left behind at Cumberland House for the
purpose of bringing on the stores and provisions directly
they could be transported after the rivers and lakes
were open to navigation, the expedition took its de-
parture from Fort Chipewyan on the 18th July, and
proceeding down the Slave River, reached the waters of
the Great Slave Lake; on the 29th they arrived at Fort
Providence, a post situated at the north end of the lake.
1522.] LEAVE FORT PROVIDENCE. 121
Their journey thus far had been chiefly remarkable
for the number of rapids they encountered, and the
numerous portages that had consequently to be made ;
and also, it should be recorded, for the sufferings they
endured from the pertinacious attacks to which they
were exposed from myriads of mosquitoes and sand-
flies. These pestilential insects were, during the
journey, a source of very serious annoyance to the
travellers.
At Fort Providence their party was supplemented
by the addition of a clerk belonging to the North- Wesl
Company, a Mr. Wentzel, who had placed his services
at the disposal of Lieutenant Franklin ; he was also
accompanied by an interpreter and a hunter. The
expedition now consisted of Franklin and his five
European companions, twenty-six men, principally Cana-
dian half-breed voyageurs, three women and as many
children. The women were specially engaged for the
purpose of making clothes and shoes for the men whilst
in winter quarters.
On the 2nd August they left Fort Providence in four
canoes, and steering to the northward, entered a country
that had never previously been visited by Europeans.
<)n (lie following day they reached the Yellow Knife
Pviver, where they were joined, as had been arranged,
by a flotilla of seventeen canoes, containing Indians who
had agreed to accompany them some distance to the
northward, and hunt for them during the time they
were together. Leaving the Yellow Knife River, they
proceeded by a chain of lakes, necessitating innumerable
long and tedious portages, until Winter Lake, situated
in latitude 64° 30', was reached on August 20th. The
season being well advanced, it was determined to con-
122 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
struct a house on the south-west side of this lake, to
be called Fort Enterprise, in which to pass the winter.
The distance travelled from Fort Chipewyan to this posi-
tion was 553 miles.
It may be interesting to know that the united length
of all the portages crossed by the expedition since leaving
Fort Providence was twenty-one statute miles ; over this
distance everything, including canoes, had to be carried ;
and as each portage had to be traversed no less than
seven times in order to transport their goods across,
a distance of 150 miles had necessarily to be walked.
Up to the period when the expedition went into winter
quarters at Fort Enterprise, they had travelled a dis-
tance of over 1500 miles.
While some of the party were engaged in building
the houses in which to pass the winter, others were em-
ployed on hunting-parties in order to procure game for
their subsistence during the winter, and also for their
requirements during the spring travelling. There was,
fortunately, no lack of fresh meat, as large herds of rein-
deer were frequently found grazing along the shores of
the lake. The officers during this time were, of course,
well occupied, chiefly in the general superintendence of
the work and in organising the hunting-parties, and also
in the examination of the adjacent country, with a view
of ascertaining the direction that would afford the best
facilities for making good progress when the travelling
season began. During one of these expeditions the
Coppermine Biver was reached.
By the 15th September all parties had returned to
Fort Enterprise, and the necessary preparations for
passing the winter were made. On the 6th of the
following month they moved into their houses. The
1822.] MR. BACK'S ARDUOUS JOURNEY. 123
one erected for the officers was a log building fifty feet
long by twenty-four wide, divided into a large hall,
three bedrooms, and a kitchen ; this was occupied by
Franklin and his companions. There was also another
house constructed for the men, besides a storehouse in
which the provisions were kept.
The winter was a long and cheerless one, and the
privations they endured, cut off as they were from all,
save their little community, were of no ordinary nature ;
extreme cold and a scarcity of provisions being the prin-
cipal enemies they had to contend with, the reindeer
having entirely deserted their neighbourhood shortly
after the occupation of their winter quarters. Before
the winter had actually set in, their store of provisions
was so reduced that it became absolutely necessary to
communicate with Fort Chipewyan in order to replenish
their exhausted stock. For this purpose Mr. Back,
always ready to proffer his services when any under-
taking of a particularly arduous or dangerous character
had to be performed, was despatched during the month
of November. He returned on the 1 5th of March, having
most satisfactorily executed the duty entrusted to him.
During the period of his absence, this intrepid young
officer travelled a distance of more than 1100 miles
on snowshoes, with the temperature frequently down
to -40°, and on one occasion as low as -57°. All
this time he had no covering at night but a single
blanket and a deerskin, and he was sometimes without
food of any description for two or three consecutive
days. This will perhaps give some idea of the hard-
ships and sufferings endured by this gallant young mid-
shipman during his long and arduous journey.
CHAPTER IX.
FRANKLIN'S FIRST LAND JOURNEY— {continued).
1819-1822.
"Oh, the long and dreary winter !
Oh, the cold and cruel winter !
Ever thicker, thicker, thicker,
Froze the ice on lake and river ;
Ever deeper, deeper, deeper,
Fell the snow o'er all the landscape,
Fell the covering snow and drifted
Through the forest, round the village.
Hardly from the buried wigwam
Could the hunter force a passage ;
With his mittens and his snowshoes
Vainly walked he through the forest,
Sought for bird and beast, and found none,
Saw no track of deer or rabbit,
In the snow beheld no foot-prints
In the ghastly gleaming forest."
— Longfellow.
At length, after endless troubles with the Indians
and the half- breed voyageurs, the party, having been
augmented by the addition of a couple of Eskimo
interpreters, took its departure from Fort Enterprise
on 14th June 182 1, with two large canoes and several
sledges. The rate of progress, however, was not at
first very rapid, for each man had to carry, or drag,
124
1821.] EHBARKED ON COPPERMINE RIVER 125
a weight of 1S0 pounds, a serious obstacle to quick
travelling. 1
Crossing various lakes that lay in their route, trans-
porting their canoes and stores over long stretches of
barren land, and even sometimes over high and rugged
bills, launching their canoes again into the rivers, and
shooting dangerous rapids, the expedition pushed onwards
until it was fairly embarked on the turbid waters of the
Coppermine River.
That their task was a difficult and a perilous one
goes without saying, and we are not surprised to hear
of the sufferings they endured from swollen knee and
ankle joints, the result of continuous marching through
soft snow, combined with a predisposition to scorbutic
attacks; their shoes also were much torn by the ice and
sharp-pointed stones over which they had to travel,
causing their feet to be painfully lacerated, and they
were also subjected to the almost unbearable and never-
ceasing persecutions of their relentless enemies, the
mosquitoes. Still they pushed on uncomplainingly, re-
garding these torments as a necessary part of their
daily routine, and determined, so far as in them lay,
to carry out to the letter the particular object of tbe
enterprise, namely, geographical research.
Fortunately, although the country through which they
journeyed was barren and sterile in appearance, they
saw, and succeeded in killing, many reindeer and musk-
oxen, and were thus aide to eke out the somewhat scanty
1 Prior to t hrir departure, arrangements had been made with
one of the Indian chiefs, named Akaitcho, for depositing a
supply of provisions at Fort Enterprise during their absence, bo
that on their return they would find a good store prepared for
them, in the event of their having to pass another winter at the
station.
126 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
stock of dried provisions with which they were furnished
on leaving Fort Enterprise. The scenery along the
banks of the Coppermine River was bold and rugged.
Ranges of lofty hills were visible on either side, while
broad valleys stretching between them, afforded excellent
shelter and pasturage for the herds of reindeer that
were constantly seen. On the 14th June a high hill
was ascended, and their hearts beat with joyful ex-
pectation of future success, as they obtained their first
view of the Arctic Ocean. Four days subsequently they
had the extreme gratification of making their camp on
the shore of the Hyperborean Sea, and had the satis-
faction of feeling that they had almost reached the
" Ultima Thule " of their journey.
They found the geographical position of the mouth of
the Coppermine River to be somewhat different to that
assigned to it by Hearne, but everything else agreed
well with the account given by that traveller. The
most conspicuous headland seen to the northward was
named by Franklin Cape Hearne, as a just and deserv-
ing tribute to the memory of that persevering and ener-
getic Hudson's Bay official. Ever mindful of old friends
and patrons, a group of islands was named the Lawford
Islands after the commander under whose auspices, in
the old Polyphemus, Franklin had gained his first expe-
rience in the navy. Nor were Flinders and Buchan
forgotten by their old friend, when considering the
nomenclature of the newly-discovered land.
On June 21st the canoes were launched on the Arctic
Ocean, and their voyage to the eastward commenced.
The coast along which they sailed in their small and
frail barks was a sterile and inhospitable one ; cliff suc-
ceeded cliff in tiresome and monotonous uniformity ;
1822.] ON THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 127
the valleys that intervened being covered with the debris
that fell from the cliffs, to the exclusion of any kind of
herbage. Occasionally their progress was temporarily
impeded by ice, whilst a strong ice-blink was invariably
seen to seaward.
It must not be forgotten that the expedition was
navigating a rock-bound coast, fringed with heavy
masses of solid ice, that rose and fell with every motion
of a rough and tempestuous sea, threatening momentarily
to crush the light frail canoes, fit only for river or lake
navigation, in which Franklin and his party were em-
barked. This voyage along the shores of the Arctic
Sea. must always take rank as one of the most daring
and hazardous exploits that has ever been accomplished
in the interest of geographical research. Following all
the tortuous sinuosities of the coast-line, and accurately
delineating the northern shore; of North America as
they pushed onwards in an easterly direction, naming
all the principal headlands, sounds, bays and islands l
that were discovered, the expedition reached a point
on the 18th August in latitude 68° 19' N. and longi-
tude no° 5' W. on the coast of North America, whence
Franklin reluctantly came to the conclusion that they
had reached the end of their journey, and must return
from the interesting work on which they were engaged,
1 It is somewhat significant that a small group of islands discovered
by Franklin at this period in the Arctic Sea received the name of the
Porden Islands. Miss Eleanor Anne Porden was the daughter "f
an eminent architect. As a young girl she developed a talent f<n
poetry, and on the despatch of the expedition commanded by Captain
Buchan in 1818 she wrote a short sonnet on it. This w.is the means
of an introduction to Franklin, who must have been bo impressed
hy the charms of the young poetess, that he not only Darned
islands after her, but on his return to England he made her his
wife.
128 LIFE OF SIE JOHN FKANKLIN. [1819-
and for the following reasons. In the first place, they
had only three days' pemmican left, and the Canadian
voyageurs had, consequently, manifested a very decided
reluctance to continue the work of exploration, believing,
and not unnaturally, that great difficulty would be expe-
rienced at that late season of the year in replenish-
ing their fast diminishing store of provisions. In the
second place, the gales of wind which were so prevalent
were, they thought, sure indications of the break-up of
the travelling season, and therefore that in itself appeared
sufficient reason for them to be thinking of wending their
way in a southerly direction. The absence of all traces
of Eskimos, from whom they had calculated upon obtain-
ing supplies of food, was also discouraging, while the
amount of time that had already been occupied in
exploring the various bays and sounds that lay in
their route was so great, that it entirely precluded all
hope of reaching Repulse Bay before the arrival of
winter, a hope they had always cherished might be
realised.
Although on the chart the position reached by the
expedition, which was very appropriately named Point
Turnagain, was only six and a half degrees of longitude
to the eastward of the mouth of the Coppermine River,
so tortuous and winding was the contour of the newly-
discovered coast, that they were actually obliged to sail
and paddle in their canoes a distance of 555 geogra-
phical miles in order to accomplish the journey ; this
would be about equal to the direct distance between
the Coppermine River and Repulse Bay. It was there-
fore obvious that the only prudent course that could be
pursued, was to return as soon as possible in order to
reach the Indians, who had been directed to procure a
1822.] THE RETURN JOURNEY BEGUN. 129
supply of provisions for the expedition, before the next
winter should set in.
From their researches, up to this point, Franklin
had arrived at the conclusion (subsequently proved
to be a well-founded one) that a navigable passage for
ships along the coast by which they had travelled was
practicable ; and although he was disappointed in not
meeting his friend Captain Parry and his vessels, he
felt convinced that they stood an excellent chance of
satisfactorily clearing up the long unsolved problem of a
north-west passage.
It is not in the scope of this work to enter into all the
details connected with Franklin's remarkable journey,
but the story could only be considered as half toM, if
an allusion to the return voyage was omitted. The
determination to return was, it may well be imagined,
hailed with delight by the voyageurs, who for some days
had manifested a growing spirit of insubordination, due
in a measure to the serious apprehensions they felt for
their safety if the voyage was continued. Instead of
returning by the way they came, namely by the Copper-
mine River, Franklin determined to push up Arctic
Sound, and thence proceed by way of a large river (which
he named, after his young companion, Hood River), to
Fort Enterprise, for he thought by so doing he would pass
through a country in which the chances of obtaining game
would be greater than by adhering to the outward route.
In accordance with this resolve, the expedition left
Point Turnagain on the 22nd of August. At this time
the ground was covered with snow and the pools of water
were frozen, while other indications of the approach
of winter were only too evident. Their provisions at
this time were so reduced thai they had to content
1
130 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
themselves with one meal a day, and this consisted
of a small amount of dry and mouldy pemmican. On
the 24th they succeeded in killing three very lean and
scraggy deer; but beggars cannot afford to be choosers,
and this addition to their larder was both welcome
and acceptable, more especially as they had already con-
sumed their last remaining meal of pemmican. On
the following day, after an exciting run before a gale of
wind, in which both canoes nearly foundered, they left
the sea, and entering the mouth of Hood's River, en-
camped that night as high as the first rapid.
Thus terminated their voyage on the Arctic Ocean,
on which they had sailed over 650 geographical miles ;
but their troubles and their sufferings did not cease
when they turned their backs upon the sea ; indeed, they
can barely be said to have commenced. Finding the
canoes too heavy and unwieldy for their mode of tra-
velling, especially as the rapids were numerous and the
portages long, two smaller boats were constructed out of
the materials of the larger ones ; having thus reduced
their weights and discarded all unnecessary stores, books,
&c, which were carefully deposited in a cache, they suc-
ceeded in making better progress. Ascertaining that
Hood's River trended too much in a westerly direction,
and being also somewhat difficult of navigation, they
quitted its banks on the 3rd of September, and tra-
velled as nearly as they could in a straight line towards
their wished-for goal and haven, Fort Enterprise.
Henceforth the journey had to be performed almost
entirely on foot over a stony and barren country, but
they carried their canoes with them in the event of
having to cross any lakes or rivers that might lie in
their route, or that flowed in the right direction. On
1822.] DISTRESSING CONDITION OF THE PARTY. 131
the evening of the 4th their stock of provisions was
exhausted. On the two following days a violent gale of
wind was experienced, which necessitated a confinement
to camp ; as they had absolutely nothing to eat, and
were even destitute of the means of making a fire, they
remained in bed the whole time. The temperature at
this time was as low as 20°, and they found their blankets
quite insufficient to protect them against the cold. On
the morning of the 7th, the wind having moderated
slightly, and anything being preferable to inactivity, the
tents were struck and the march resumed. So violent,
however, was the wind, that the men carrying the canoes
were frequently blown down by its force ; and on one of
these occasions the largest of the two canoes was so
injured as to be rendered utterly unserviceable. It was
thought at the time that it had been purposely thrown
down and damaged by those who had to carry it.
For some days all they had to subsist on was a lichen,
called by the Canadians tripe de roche, 1 with perhaps an
occasional partridge shot by the hunters. Their suffer-
ings were great, for the temperature was very low,
always below freezing-point, and they were frequently
wet to their waists from having to ford the numerous
rivers and swamps that lay in their path ; their remaining
canoe was in such a leaky condition as to be practically
useless. On the 10th they sighted a herd of musk-oxen,
and were so fortunate as to succeed in killing one of
these animals.
1 Called by botanists Gyrophora, on .account of its circular form,
and the surface of the leaf being marked with curved lines. Dr.
Richardson says — "We used it as an article of food, but not having
the means of extracting the bitter principle from it, it proved
nauseous to all, and noxious to several of the party, producing
severe bowel complaints."
132 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
The event is thus alluded to in Franklin's narrative
of the journey : —
" About noon the weather cleared, and to our great joy we
saw a herd of musk-oxen grazing in a valley below us. The
party instantly halted, and the best hunters were sent out.
They approached the animals with the utmost caution, no
less than two hours being consumed before they got within
gunshot. In the meantime we beheld their proceedings with
extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers were, doubtless,
offered up for their success. At length they opened their fire,
and we had the satisfaction of seeing one of the largest cows
fall ; another was wounded, but escaped. This success infused
spirit in our starving party. To skin and cut up the animal
was the work of a few minutes. The contents of its stomach
was devoured upon the spot, and the raw intestines, which
were most attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate
amongst us to be excellent. This was the sixth day since we
had had a good meal. The tripe de roche, even where we got
enough, only serving to allay the pangs of hunger for a short
time."
This providential supply of food revived their droop-
ing spirits, but death stared them in the face in more
ways than one, and Franklin himself had a narrow
escape of his life, being capsized whilst attempting to
cross a rapid in their crazy canoe ; his escape indeed
was almost miraculous. By this accident he had the
misfortune to lose his journal, and the numerous and
valuable scientific observations he had made since the
departure of the expedition from Fort Enterprise.
In order to lighten their burdens, everything but the
clothes that were actually on their backs, their guns and
ammunition, and the instruments necessary for deter-
mining their position, were abandoned, and rewards in
money were offered to those who were successful in
1822.] MISHAP TO DR. RICHARDSON 133
shooting game. On the 1 7th the pangs of hunger,
we are told, were somewhat allayed by eating pieces
of singed hide mixed with a little tripe de roche ! On
the following day they supped off tripe de roche, and
on the next day had nothing at all !
On the 21st the remaining canoe was irreparably
damaged, and was therefore abandoned as useless lumber.
On the same day they picked up the horns and bones of
a deer that had been devoured by wolves the previous
year. These were made friable by burning, and with
some old shoes was the only food they had that day.
On the 25th they fortunately succeeded in shooting five
small deer out of a herd ; and, two days after, they
were lucky enough to lind the putrid carcase of a deer
that had fallen into the cleft of a rock the previous
spring. We are informed that the intestines of this
animal, which had been scattered over the rock, were
carefully scraped together by the more than half-famished
men, and added to their meal. On the 29th September
Dr. Richardson nearly lost his life whilst gallantly
attempting to swim across the almost frozen Copper-
mine River, with the object of establishing communi-
cation with the opposite bank, in order that the re-
mainder of the party might cross. He was hauled on
shoie in an almost lifeless condition, and being rolled
up in blankets, was placed before a fire that had been
kindled for the purpose. He gradually recovered con-
sciousness, but his anxious attendants were horrified to
find that his entire left side was deprived of feeling;
this was due to the fact that, in their anxiety, they had
exposed him too suddenly to the heat. Perfect sensation
did not return until the following spring.
On the 1st of October the antlers and backbone of a
134 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
deer killed the preceding year were found, and although
they had been picked clean by the wolves and birds,
the spinal marrow still remained, and this, though
in a partially decomposed state, was regarded as a
valuable prize by the starving party. The marrow was
so acrid as to excoriate their lips and mouths. On the
4th of October affairs were so serious that Mr. Back,
the most active and vigorous of the party, volunteered
to make his way as speedily as possible to Fort Enter-
prise, in order to give information regarding the help-
less condition of his companions, and to send the
chief Akaitcho and his Indians, whom he hoped and
expected to find at the fort, back to their succour
and assistance. With this humane object in view he
started off at once, accompanied by three of the most
robust of the voyageurs. The remainder of the party
plodded wearily after.
Mr. Hood at this time was excessively feeble, conse-
quent on the severe bowel complaints which the tripe de
roche never failed to give him. This diet was occasionally
varied by old shoes and whatever scraps of leather could
be obtained. Some of the men being even, if possible,
in a worse state, and so weak as to be almost unable
to proceed, it was decided that Dr. Richardson and
Mr. Hood should remain behind to look after them,
while Franklin, with the remainder of the party, should
push on to Fort Enterprise, twenty-four miles distant,
and endeavour to obtain relief. This was considered as
the wisest disposition of the party that could be suggested,
and was accordingly acted upon. The seaman Hepburn,
with four Canadians, namely Michel, Belanger, Credit,
and Vaillant, were left with Dr. Richardson, and they
were soon after joined by another voyageur named
1822.] NO SUPPLIES AT FOKT ENTERPRISE. 135
Perrault, who, starting with Franklin, found himself too
weak to proceed, and therefore returned.
On the nth October, Franklin, with his more than
half-starved companions, after a long and painful journey
of five days' duration, during which time the only food
that passed their lips was some old shoe-leather and a
little tripe de roche (for even the latter form of diet was
scarce and not easily obtainable), reached Fort Enterprise,
where they fully expected that their sufferings would
end, and that they woidd be able to despatch relief to
their more helpless comrades. Their feelings may be
better imagined than described when, on their arrival,
they found a perfectly deserted habitation — no traces
of Akaitcho and the Indians they expected to find, and
with whom they had arranged for supplies, and not a
scrap of food to be found, not even a letter to inform
them of the whereabouts of the Indians. There was,
however, a short, hurriedly written note left by Mi'.
Back, who had reached the house two days previously,
informing them that he had started in search of the
Indians, and in the event of his failing to find them,
it was his intention to walk on to Fort Providence,
whence, at any rate, he hoped he would be able to send
help and succour to the remainder of the expedition ;
but a significant clause in the note added, that he
much questioned whether he and his party, in their
weak and debilitated state, would be able to accom-
plish the journey.
This was a terrible blow to Franklin and those with
him, for they well knew that assistance, if it was to bo
obtained from Fort Providence, would be long in reach-
ing them, and they were fully aware that immediate aid
was absolutely necessary for their salvation. They were,
136 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
however, somewhat relieved by finding some old deer-
skins, which had been thrown away by them during the
preceding winter, and which, with some old bones that
were raked up from the dirt-heap, and the addition of
a little tripe de roche, would serve to prolong existence
for a few days. At this time the temperature was
ranging fi'om 15° to 20 below zero.
The condition of these poor fellows was now truly
distressing. They were so weak and emaciated as to
be unable to move except for a few yards at a time ;
they were afflicted with swellings in their joints, limbs,
and other parts of their bodies; their eyeballs were
dilated ; they spoke with hollow sepxilchral voices ; and
their mouths were raw and excoriated, the result of the
fare on which they had subsisted. The story of the
sufferings endured by this party is one of the most
harrowing on record. It is impossible to imagine, much
less describe, the terrible hardships and privations they
experienced, borne as they were with manly fortitude
and Christian resignation.
On the 20th, as there were no signs of the approach
of the Indians, from whom alone relief could be obtained,
Franklin started with the intention of looking for them,
taking with him two men. The other three were quite
unable to move. On the following day he had the mis-
fortune to break his snow-shoes, which necessitated his
return to Fort Enterprise. The two men, however,
went on by themselves in search of the Indians. The
state of those left behind was now very deplorable.
The little strength remaining to them was declining day
by day ; when once seated it was only by exerting the
greatest effort they could rise ; and then only with the
assistance of one of their equally helpless companions.
1822.] MURDER AKD CANNIBALISM. 137
Whilst in this wretched condition a herd of reindeer
was suddenly seen one evening close to the house —
" The crescent moon, and crimson eve,
Shone with a mingling light ;
The deer upon the grassy mead
Were feeding full in sight ; "
but, alas ! they were too weak, poor fellows, even to at-
tempt to shoot at thern, and the animals were permitted
to graze and pass on unmolested. The sufferings of Tan-
talus could not have been worse than those experienced
by these starving men when they beheld plenty, which
to them meant existence and life, at their door within
gunshot range, without being able to avail themselves
of the supply which had apparently been so providen-
tially sent to them.
On the 29th Dr. Richardson and Hepburn suddenly
and unexpectedly made their appearance, bringing with
them a sad tale of woe and horror. Of the eight men
who were left behind at the last encampment, these two
were the sole survivors. Poor Hood had been foully
murdered by the man Michel, who, a few days later, was
shot in self-defence by Dr. Richardson. The remainder
had died of cold and starvation. It was a terrible and
a ghastly tale they had to narrate — a story of murder
and cannibalism, combined with almost unheard-of suffer-
ings. Although it was never properly proved, it is more
than certain that the man Michel had taken the lives of
two of his companions (Belanger and Perrault), and had
satisfied his unnatural appetite by feasting on the bodies
of his victims. He had then murdered poor Hood by
shooting him through the head, while Dr. Richardson
and Hepburn were absent from the camp gathering
tripe de roche. He subsequently conducted himself in
138 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
such a threatening and domineering manner, that, under
the circumstances, the Doctor felt fully justified in de-
priving this monster in human form of life.
This was the dreadful and mournful story they had to
tell, and it was one that naturally produced a melancholy
feeling of despondency in the minds of Franklin and
his party. They were all much shocked at beholding the
emaciated and haggard appearance of the Doctor and his
companion, who were, however, in no worse condition,
if so bad, than they were themselves. Hepburn having
had the good luck to shoot a partridge before reaching
the post, it was held before the fire a few minutes, then
divided into six equal portions and ravenously devoured.
It was the first morsel of flesh that had passed their
lips for thirty-one days ! Although herds of reindeer
were frequently seen in close proximity to their quarters,
and were even fired at on several occasions, they never
succeeded in killing one, and they were far too weak
to go in pursuit.
On the evening of November ist, one of their party,
Peltier, succumbed to starvation, and he was followed
the next evening by Semandi'4, another of the voyageurs.
The united strength of the party was unequal to in-
terring, or even removing, the corpses of their two com-
panions, and the bodies had therefore to remain in the
house, and in the same position in which the poor fellows
had breathed their last. The party was now reduced to
four, viz., Lieutenant Franklin, Dr. Richardson, Hep-
burn, and a Canadian, named Adam, all in a state of
great extremity. As their strength declined, so their
minds exhibited symptoms of weakness and decay, and
they feared their intellects were going. But their
deliverance was at hand. On the 7 th November, when
182±] RELIEVED BY THE INDIANS. 139
they had almost made up their minds that death musl
speedily release them from their terrible sufferings, three
Indians unexpectedly made their appearance, having
been despatched by Mr. Back, with all possible speed,
to their succour. They brought with them some dried
deer's meat and a few tongues, which being placed
before the famished party, it is needless to say, was
eagerly and greedily devoured ; but the feeling that
they were saved, that deliverance from a long and
painful death had actually arrived, acted with even
more beneficial effects than the food that was thus
providentially provided for them. It undoubtedly saved
the life of Adam, whose death, prior to the arrival
of relief, was momentarily expected. From this date
their sufferings may be said to have terminated. The
Indians not only procured game and iish, but watched
over them with tender care, and ministered to their
wants and comfort.
On the 1 6th November, their health and strength
having been sufficiently resuscitated, they took their
departure from Foi-t Enterprise. Their feelings on quit-
ting this place, where they had experienced a degree of
misery scarcely to be paralleled in history, must have
been indescribable. Nothing could exceed the kindness
of their attendant Indians, who prepared the encamp-
ments, obtained food, cooked it, and even fed them,
while treating them at all times with the greatest
tenderness and solicitude. At length, on the nth
December, the poor wayworn and suffering travellers
reached Fort Providence, where they once again experi-
enced the agreeable sensation of being in a comfortable
dwelling and in the enjoyment of comparative luxury,
so different to the miseries and hardships they had so
140 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
recently undergone. Four days only were spent at Fort
Providence, and on the 18th they reached Moose Deer
Island, where they had the happiness of meeting their
companion Mr. Back, withoiit whose energy and perse-
verance they must inevitably have perished.
The sufferings endured by this gallant young officer,
during his long and arduous journey in search of assist-
ance, were quite equal to those of the party he had left
behind ; they may perhaps be better imagined when it
is stated that for many days he and his three men sub-
sisted on an old pair of leather trousers, a gun-cover,
and a pair of old shoes, with a little tripe de roche that
they succeeded in scraping off the rocks ! On the 16th
October, twelve days after he had left Franklin and the
remainder of the party, one of his three men died from
starvation and exhaustion. This loss, very naturally,
created a feeling of depression in the hearts of the sur-
vivors, but still they persevered, resolutely determined
to push onwards, knowing that the lives of the party
they had left behind, depended entirely on their exer-
tions. On the 4th November they, fortunately, fell in with
a party of Indians, and were thus able to send help and
succour to Franklin and his companions, as has already
been stated, at a most critical moment. Having made
the necessary arrangements for the despatch of further
supplies, Back pushed on to Fort Providence, which he
safely reached on the 21st of November. Here letters
for the expedition were received, and among them was
the welcome announcement of the promotion of their
gallant leader to the well-earned rank of commander, and
the advancement of Back and poor Hood to the equally
well-deserved rank of lieutenant. Franklin's commis-
sion to a commander bears date January 1, 182 1.
1822.] RETURN TO ENGLAND. Ml
The winter was passed by the members of the expedi-
tion at Moose Deer Island, and, under the circumstances,
a very pleasant and happy one it was. Nothing could
exceed the kindness and hospitality of the Hudson's
Bay officials stationed at that post, and under their care
Franklin and his companions gradually recovered their
usual health and strength. On the 26th May they Iefl
their hospitable quarters at Moose Deer Island, and
visiting Fort Chipewyan on their way, reached Norway
House on the 4th July. Ten days later they arrived
at York Factory, thus bringing to a conclusion their
"long, fatiguing, and disastrous" wanderings in North
America, in accomplishing which they had journeyed,
by land and by water, a distance of 5550 geographical
miles.
On their arrival in England Commander Franklin
was immediately promoted by the Admiralty to the
rank of captain, in recognition of his extraordinary and
eventful journey, in the accomplishment of which he
had displayed so much ability, courage, and energy.
His captain's commission was dated November 20, 1822.
He was, at about the same time, unanimously elected
a Fellow of the Royal Society, for his great and in-
valuable exertions in the cause of geographical science,
whilst conducting one of the most remarkable journeys
that had ever been achieved. The history of it is of
such thrilling interest that it is almost unnecessary to
offer any apology for having referred to it at such
length — at greater length, perhaps, than is warranted
in a work professing to treat more of geography than
of the personal incidents connected with the lives of
those who, by their dogged perseverance and undaunted
courage, have materially added to the greatness and
142 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
prosperity of our country. The detailed and official
narrative, written by the leader of the expedition after
his return, should be read by all who appreciate a
truly heroic story, told in a modest and unassuming
form. It cannot but fail to impress those who read it,
with that strong and marked feeling of Christian reliance
in an all-merciful Providence, that self-abnegation and
devotion to those entrusted to his charge, and above all,
that cheerful and reliant disposition which was so con-
spicuous in Franklin, and which stamped him as a born
leader of men.
His companion and fellow-sufferer, Dr. Richardson,
who was intimately acquainted with him, writes of his
chief in the following terms : —
"Franklin had a cheerful buoyancy of mind, which, sus-
tained by a religious principle of a depth known only to his
most intimate friends, was not depressed in the most gloomy
times."
Sir John Barrow also, in reference to this marvellous
journey, writes : —
" It adds another to the many splendid records of enter-
prise, zeal, and energy of our seamen — of that cool and in-
trepid conduct which never forsakes them on occasions the
most trying — that unshaken constancy and perseverance in
situations the most arduous, the most distressing, and some-
times the most hopeless, that can befall human beings ; and
it furnishes a beautiful example of the triumph of mental and
moral energy over mere brute strength, in the simple fact
that out of fifteen individuals, inured from their birth to cold,
fatigue, and hunger, no less than ten (native landsmen) were
so subdued by the aggravation of those evils to which they
had been habituated, as to give themselves up to indifference,
insubordination, and despair, and finally to sink down and
1822.] DESCRIPTION OF FRANKLIN 143
die ; whilst of five British seamen unaccustomed to the severity
of the climate, and the hardships attending it, only one fell,
and that one by the hands of an assassin."
In such a well-merited eulogy, every Englishman
must heartily and cordially concur.
Immediately on his return to England, Franklin set
to work to write an account of the expedition, which
was published the following year. This narrative, sup-
plemented as it was by a valuable appendix from the
pen of Dr. Richardson, assisted very materially in
increasing the slight knowledge possessed at that time
of the geography, geology, and natural history of the
northern portion of North America, and especially with
regard to that great extent of coast-line, hitherto prac-
tically unknown, that is washed by the waters of the
Polar Sea.
Franklin's personal appearance at this period is
thus described by one of his relatives : — " His features
and expression were grave and mild, and very benig-
nant ; his build thoroughly that of a sailor ; his stature
rather below the middle height; his look very kind,
and his manner very quiet, though not without a
certain dignity, as of one accustomed to command
others."
During the period he was employed in compiling the
narrative of his adventurous journey, he was not, appa-
rently, prevented from finding some little time to devote
to his private affairs, and especially to cultivating and
developing the friendship which he had formed with the
young poetess (see note, page 127 ante), whose acquaint-
ance he had made prior to his departure in 1 818 in the
Trent. So well did he press his suit that he succeeded
in winning the young lady's affections, and on the 19th
144 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1819-
of August 1823 Captain Franklin was married to Miss
Eleanor Anne Porden. This lady, as has already been
observed, possessed great poetic talent, and bad pub-
lished an epic poem in two volumes entitled " Cceur de
Lion." She had also written a clever scientific poem
MRS. FRANKLIN.
(From a painting in the possession of Rev. John Philip Gcll.)
called "The Veils," for which she received the unusual
distinction (at least for an English lady) of being elected
a member of the somewhat exclusive "Institut" of
Paris.
Shortly after her acquaintance with Captain Franklin
had ripened into friendship, she wrote a little poem,
1822.] FRANKLIN'S MARRIAGE. 145
which was published over the now. de plume of "Green-
stockings," in which, assuming the character of an
Eskimo maiden, she implores the return of Franklin to
the wild north-land she loves, where she has —
"Gathered thee dainties most rare —
The wild birds that soar, and the fish of the sea,
The moose and the reindeer, the fox and the bear,
In a snow-mantled grotto, I guard them for thee."
It is credibly reported that, prior to their marriage,
a mutual agreement was made that, under no circum-
stances, was their union to preclude him from accepting
any service, no matter how dangerous or perilous it might
prove, that might be required of him. His country
was to be his first love, and his wife must be prepared
to allow him to go wherever duty and his country
demanded. It is well known how well and faithfully
the compact then entered upon was, in so short a time,
to be put to the test and scrupulously adhered to.
On the 3rd June 1824 their only child, a daughter,
was born, and was named after her mother. Mrs.
Franklin's health from this time gradually declined,
and when Franklin started on his next expedition, it
was only too apparent he would never meet his accom-
plished wife in this world again. 1
1 The parents of Mrs. Franklin died before they were married. She
bad an ouly sister married to Mr. Kay, whose daughter was Franklin's
favourite niece. Her brother, his nephew, entered the navy, and sub-
sequently served with Franklin in the llainbow.
CHAPTER X.
FRANKLIN'S SECOND OVERLAND JOURNEY.
1825-1828.
" Ours the wild life in tumult still
To range." — The Corsair.
We will now turn to the expedition, under the command
of Lieutenant Parry. He was despatched, it will be
remembered, for the express purpose of attempting the
accomplishment of the north-west passage, by sailing
through Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound, Franklin
having been directed to co-ojierate with him in the
event of their meeting in the Arctic Seas. The ships
selected for this service were the Hecla of 375 tons, and
the Griper of 180 tons, the latter being commanded by
Lieutenant Liddon. They were equipped and prepared
under the direct supervision of Lieutenant Parry, who
spared no trouble, or fiaiiis, in order to render them
thoroughly efficient for the important service on which
they were to be employed.
The expedition left England on the 1 ith of May 18 19.
On the 15th of June Cape Farewell, the southern extre-
mity of Greenland, was sighted. The ships then sailed
up Davis Strait, and entered Baffin's Bay, where they
encountered much ice, and experienced great difficulty
in forcing a passage through. At length, after much
146
1819.] LIEUT. PARRY'S EXPEDITION. 147
incessant labour, requiring constant and unceasing
vigilance on the part of the officers, the ships entered
Lancaster Sound on the 4th of August, sailing over the
so-called Croker Mountains, which Captain Ross had,
the previous year, hypothetically placed across the
entrance. 1 Propelled by a fresh and favourable breeze,
the ships, sailing in a westerly direction without meeting
with ice either of sufficient magnitude or quantity to
impede their progress, entered a large strait, which was
deservedly named after Sir John Barrow, the Secre-
tary of the Admiralty, the indefatigable promoter and
supporter of Arctic research. Hopes ran high as they
proceeded, and some even flattered themselves that the
north-west passage was almost an accomplished fact, but
their joyful aspirations were soon to be abruptly and
rudely shattered, for on reaching the neighbourhood
of Leopold Island their progress was arrested by a large
barrier of ice which stretched in a solid mass across the
strait, and appeared to defy penetration. Being unable,
therefore, to proceed any further in a westerly direction,
Parry turned to the southward, and sailed up a large
inlet which he named Prince Regent Inlet, when was
observed for the first time " the curious phenomenon of
the directive power of the needle becoming so weak as
to be completely overcome by the attraction of the ship,
so that the needle might now be said to point to the
north pole of the ship." The fact being that they were
1 When the truth connected with this discovery was made knowu
in England, it gave rise to the following epigrammatic lines —
" Old Sinbad tells us, he a whale had seeu,
So like the land, it seemed an island green ;
But Ross has told the converse of this tale,
The laud he saw was — very like a whale I "
148 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
approaching the Magnetic Pole, and its influence on the
needle was felt to such an extent, as to render the com-
passes so sluggish as to be comparatively useless. It may
be of interest here to remark that Sir James Ross, who
subsequently discovered the North Magnetic Pole, was at
that time serving as a midshipman on board the Hecla.
Being again stopped by the ice, the ships returned to
the northward to find, to their intense surprise and
delight, that the barrier of ice in Barrow's Strait which
had shortly before checked their progress had altogether
disappeared, leaving a broad channel of open water to
the westward, in the direction of which the ships were
steered. Light and adverse winds and fogs, however,
rendered their progress slow. On the 22nd of August
they passed the mouth of what appeared to be a broad and
extensive inlet to the northward, to which the name of
Wellington Channel was given, and on the 3rd of Sep-
tember they had the extreme satisfaction of crossing the
1 10th meridian of west longitude, thus becoming entitled
to the reward of ^£5000, granted by Parliament to any
person, or ship, who should succeed in penetrating so far
to the westward inside the Arctic circle (see page 80).
A headland off Melville Island, off which they were
at the time, was named Cape Bounty to commemorate
the event.
Although they had thus succeeded with comparative
ease in crossing the 110th meridian of longitude, they
found the ice beyond of such a nature as to entirely
preclude all possibility of further advance, and as the
navigable season had come to an end, Parry secured
the ships in a snug harbour on the south coast of Mel-
ville Island, which he named Winter Harbour. Before,
however, the vessels could be placed in a position of
1828.] PARRY'S WINTER QUARTERS. 149
absolute security, it was found necessary to cut a channel
in the ice more than two miles in length, through which
the ships were dragged into their winter quarters, an
occupation that occupied the crews the greater part of
three days.
Owing to the care and ingenuity of Lieutenant Parry,
the winter passed pleasantly and happily. Theatrical
entertainments were instituted, plays were written and
acted, and a newspaper, The North Georgian Gazette
ami Winter Chronicle, was periodically published. In
the spring, and before the ships were released from their
icy bondage, Parry explored the country in the vicinity
of their winter quarters, taking with him a light cart
dragged by men, in which the provisions, tent, &c., were
carried. He had not then commenced the system of
sledging which he subsequently introduced, and which
was afterwards brought to great perfection by Sir Leo-
pold M'Clintock. Parry returned on the 15th of June,
having travelled about 1S0 miles, at an average daily
progress of about twelve miles. It is a curious fact that
more than thirty years after, the marks of the wheels of
his cart were found by Lieutenant M'Clintock, as plain
and distinct as if they had only then recently been made.
On the 1st of August the ice cleared away suffi-
ciently to enable the ships to make a start, and every
effort was made to push to the westward, but with-
out success, their progress being effectively stopped
by an interminable barrier of " fchick-ribb'd ice." As
the season was greatly advanced, and as the ships weir
not provisioned or prepared in any way for a second
winter, Parry determined to relinquish further attempts
at discovery, and announced his intention of returning
to Knirland, being satisfied with having accomplished
150 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
more than half the distance to Bering's Strait. In arriv-
ing at this conclusion, Parry acted with that judgment
and prudence which, combined with daring and energy
at the right moment, were the conspicuous characteristics
of this accomplished and successful navigator. On the
return of the expedition to England, Parry received his
well-earned promotion to the rank of commander, and in
the following February was unanimously elected a Fellow
of the Royal Society.
Commander Parry was not the man to remain idle, or
content with what had been achieved, when there was
yet so much to be done, in the way of geographical
exploration, so, immediately on his return, he advocated
very strongly the desirability of prosecuting further
search for a north west passage, but, he contended, that
the greatest chance of success would in his opinion be
obtained by the despatch of an expedition through
Hudson's Strait and Bay, and thence to skirt along the
northern shore of the continent of America. So much
confidence did the Admiralty repose, and very deservedly,
in his opinion, and in his capacity as the leader of an
expedition, that although his two ships, the Heda and
Griper, were only paid off on the 21st of December 1820,
Commander Parry was appointed on the 30th of the
same month, to the command of an expedition consisting
of the Fury and Ilecla, with directions to carry out
the search for a north-west passage through Hudson's
Strait and by Bepulse Bay. Lieutenant Lyon was
appointed to the command of the Griper.
Franklin, it must be remembei-ed, had not yet re-
turned from his wonderful land journey towards the
shores of the Arctic Sea, and Parry hoped that he might
possibly be afforded the opportunity of meeting his old
1828.] PARRY'S RETURN TO ENGLAND. 151
friend, as be sailed along the northern coast of the
American continent.
It is needless to enter into the details relative to this
second expedition of Parry's. It was carried out with
all the energy and ability for which that distinguished
officer was so famed, but he had many difficulties to
contend with, and although the expedition did not
return to England until the autumn of 1823, the chief
geographical result was the discovery of the Hecla and
Fury Strait. Beyond this, the ships were unable to
proceed, and Parry was reluctantly compelled to abandon
all further attempts for the discovery of a navigable
passage in that direction.
immediately after his return to England he was
attacked by a serious illness, and was for some time in
a very precarious and critical condition. On his re-
covery, one of the first letters he wrote was to his old
friend Franklin, in reply to a letter from that officer
congratulating him on his safe return. It is inserted
here to show how much he admired and appreciated the
work accomplished by Franklin. It was as follows : —
Stamfobd Hill, October 23, 1823.
" My dear Franklin, — I can sincerely assure you, that it
was with no ordinary feeling of gratification, that I read your
kind letter of congratulation on my return. Of the splendid
achievements of yourself, and your brave companions in
enterprise, I can hardly trust myself to speak, for I am
apprehensive of not conveying what, indeed, can never be
conveyed adequately in words, my unbounded admiration of
what you have, under the blessing of God, been enabled t<>
perform, and the manner in which you have performed it.
To place you in the rank of travellers, above Park, and
rlearne, and others, would, in my estimation, be nothing in
152 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
comparison of your merits. But in you and your party, my
dear friend, we see so sublime an instance of Christian con-
fidence in the Almighty, of the superiority of moral and
religious energy over mere brute strength of body, that it is
impossible to contemplate your sufferings and preservation,
without a sensation of reverential awe ! I have not yet seen
your book, and have only read the Quarterly Review. Your
letter was put into my hand at Shetland, and I need not be
ashamed to say that I cried over it like a child. The tears I
shed, however, were those of pride and pleasure — pride at
being your fellow-countryman, brother officer, and friend ;
pleasure in seeing the virtues of the Christian adding their
first and highest charm to the unconquerable perseverance
and splendid talents of the officer and the man. I have a
promise of your book this day from my brother-in-law, Mr.
Martineau, with whom (surrounded by all my family) I am
staying for a week at Stamford Hill. I cannot, at present,
enter into any shop business — I mean geographical details ;
but I long very much to see the connection between our
discoveries. Ours are small, for our success has been small
on this occasion. Briefly (for the doctors insist upon it), the
north-eastern portion of America consists of a singular penin-
sula, extending from Hepulse Bay in 66i° latitude to 69!°, and
resembling a bastion at the corner of a fort, the gorge of the
bastion being three days of Esquimaux journey, across from
Repulse Bay to Akkoolee, one of their settlements, or stations,
on the opposite or Polar Sea side.
"This great southern indentation corresponds, I imagine,
with your route, which led you into 661°, I think, in pro-
ceeding eastward ; but I have really so vague an idea of your
proceedings, geographically, that I can, at present, say very
little to gratify curiosity concerning the connection of our
discoveries.
" I shall have volumes to say, or write, to you hereafter, but
do not be alarmed at the supposition of my expecting volumes
from you in return.
" I shall only add that I am, my dear Franklin, your ever
faithful and most sincerely admiring friend,
" W. E. Parry."
1828.] SECOND LAND JOURNEY PROJECTED. 153
Parry was, for his service while in command of this
expedition, promoted to the rank of post-captain, his
commission being ante-dated to the completion of his
one year's service as a commander.
Although Captain Parry had failed on two occasions
in his attempts to discover the long sought for passage,
he was still fully persuaded not only of its existence,
but of the feasibility of its discovery by way of Lancaster
Sound, and thence, either by Prince Regent Inlet to the
southward, or by Barrow's Strait to the west. These
views were fully laid before the Government, the members
of which had such confidence in the judgment and ability
of this distinguished officer, that they resolved, and
without loss of time, to despatch another expedition, on
the lines indicated by him, in quest of the north-west
passage, and the entire conduct of it was, very properly,
entrusted to Captain Parry. It would surely be a
valuable aid and assistance to our existing geographical
knowledge of the unexplored and unknown regions of
the world, if the Government of the present day shared
the same liberal and enlightened views, regarding re-
search in high latitudes, as influenced those that procured
the despatch of Parry's third expedition in 1824.
In order that the search for the passage should be
complete, and also to guard against failure as much as
possible, it was resolved to send a second expedition to
carry out exploration by land, along the northern shore
of the North American coast. This was in accordance
with a scheme submitted by Captain Franklin, who
proposed that an expedition, on somewhat similar lines
to his last one, should be sent to the mouth of the
Mackenzie River ; there the party were to divide, and
while one portion of it was to proceed by sea along the
154 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
coast to the westward, the remainder would be detached
and sent to the eastward, with directions to survey the
coast as far as the Coppermine River, and so connect
previous discoveries.
Nothing daunted by the terrible sufferings he had so
recently experienced, Franklin sought for, and obtained,
the supreme command of this expedition ; while his old
friend and companion, Dr. Richardson, who had volun-
teered to accompany him, was selected to take charge
of the exploration of that portion of the coast alluded to
above, situated between the Mackenzie and Coppermine
Rivers. Not content with the despatch of these two
expeditions, orders were sent to Captain Beechey to
proceed with H.M.S. Blossom 1 under his command to
Kotzebue Inlet in Bering's Strait, with the object of
meeting Captain Franklin, in the event of a successful
termination to his journey, and to convey him and his
party to Canton, or the Sandwich Islands, as might seem
most advisable ; or to carry out any other instructions
that Captain Franklin might think proper to issue.
Lieutenant Back was again associated with his old
chief; and Mr. Kendall, Admiralty mate, who had
recently served under Captain Lyon, in Parry's last
expedition, formed one of the party. 2 Mr. Drummond,
on the special recommendation of Professor Hooker,
was also appointed in the capacity of assistant naturalist.
All the details connected with the fitting out of the
expedition, and even the particular route to be followed,
1 The Blossom was at that time stationed in the Pacific, under
the command of Captain Beechey, who served as first lieutenant
under Franklin when that officer was in command of the Trent
in 1818.
2 Mr. Kendall subsequently married the favourite niece of Sir John
Franklin, the daughter of Mrs. Franklin's only sister.
Sir Edward Parry and mk George Back,
[From an engraving oj Stephen Ptarct'i future oj tkc Arctic Council in tht
fotuuion oj Lot. John Harrow, by permittion y Htnry Gravtt &* Co.J
1328.] DEATH OF .AIRS. FRANKLIN. 155
were left entirely to Captain Franklin, who personally
superintended the equipment, and made the necessary
arrangements with the Hudson's Bay Company's officials
for the conveyance of his people, stores, and provisions
to the Great Bear Lake. In accordance with his wishes
three boats were specially constructed, combining light-
ness and portability with seaworthiness and stability,
with a view of their easy transport over the numerous
portages and various rapids that would be met with
before reaching the Arctic Sea, on which it was intended
they should be used. The largest of these boats was
twenty-six feet long, and was capable of carrying eight
people; the other two were each twenty-four feet in
length, and would hold seven men.
These boats, with all the men and stores required
for the expedition, were sent out by the annual Hud-
son's Bay ship sailing to York Factory in 1824, whence
they were immediately despatched to the Great Bear
Lake. The officers of the expedition did not leave
England until February 16, 1825. They went out by
way of New York, and travelling through the States
and Canada, reached Fort Cumberland, on the Saskat-
chewan, on the 15th June. Before, however, this stage
in their journey had been accomplished, Franklin, to
his inexpressible sorrow, received the mournful intelli-
gence of the death of his beloved wife, who had breathed
her last, six short days only after her husband had hidden
her farewell. This was a great blow to Captain Frank-
lin, although he was not altogether unprepared for the
distressing intelligence, for he was well aware of the
delicate, not to say critical, state of Mrs. Franklin's
health prior to his departure from England. She was
only twenty- nine years of age when she passed away.
156 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
Fort Cumberland was left the day after their arrival.
Pushing rapidly on they overtook the boats and the
remainder of the party that had travelled vid York
Factory, on June 29th, in the Methye River, arriving at
Fort Chipewyan on the 15th of the following month.
This post was left on the 25th, and four days afterwards
the expedition reached Fort Resolution, the only estab-
lishment of any kind situated on Slave Lake. Here
they remained for six days making the necessary
arrangements with the Indians for the supply of pro-
visions, &c, to last them during the forthcoming winter.
Embarking in their canoes on the 31st July, they
crossed the lake and steered for the Mackenzie River.
Hitherto they had been travelling along the same route
that Franklin had adopted when journeying to Fort
Enterprise in 1820, but after leaving Fort Resolution
they inclined more to the westward, entering the Mac-
kenzie River on the 2nd August. In a couple of clays,
they made such good progress that they arrived at Fort
Simpson, the principal depot of the Hudson's Bay
Company in that locality. They left the next day
and pushing onwards, obtained their first view of the
Rocky Mountains, the general appearance of which much
resembled, in Franklin's opinion, the east end of the
island of Jamaica. The river was, in many places,
over two miles in breadth, flowing smoothly, though
swiftly, towards the sea. They were not troubled or
inconvenienced by either rapids or their attendant por-
tages — indeed, one is, as a rule, the corollary of the
th er — an d they were therefore enabled to proceed with
such rapidity that they reached the Hudson's Bay post
at Fort Norman on August 7th.
As there yet remained a few weeks of the travelling
1828.] EXPLORATION OF MACKENZIE RIVER. 157
season in which exploration could be carried out before
the winter set in, Franklin determined to lose no
time in prosecuting the work entrusted to him. He
therefore, with this object in view, made the follow-
ing arrangements, which were duly carried out by the
parties concerned. Lieutenant Back, accompanied by
Mr. Dease, 1 was ordered to proceed at once to Great
Bear Lake (a distance that would take him about four
days to accomplish), on the banks of which he was
to select the site for a house, and immediately to
set the men to work on its construction. He was also
directed to make all the necessary arrangements for
passing as comfortable a whiter as, under the circum-
stances, it was possible to do. Dr. Richardson was
despatched, at his own special request, to explore the
northern shore of Bear Lake ; whilst Franklin himself,
with Mr. Kendall as his companion, started in one of the
boats, with a crew of six Englishmen, a native guide, and
an Eskimo interpreter, 2 for the mouth of the Mackenzie,
in order to endeavour to obtain information regarding
the state and condition of the ice on the Arctic Sea,
and their prospects of pushing on the following year.
He was also desirous of ascertaining the general trend
of the coast, east and west of the mouth of the
Mackenzie River, and of satisfying himself as to the
chance of their being able to obtain a supply of pro-
visions along the coast.
The different parties separated to carry out their
respective instructions on the 8th of August. Two days
1 Mr. Dease was an officer of the Hudson's Ray Company who had
volunteered for, and been attached to, the expedition at the speoial
request of Captain Franklin.
'-' This was Augustus, who was with Franklin in his previous
expedition to the Arctic Sea.
158 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
sub.sequently Franklin reached Fort Good Hope, the
most northern Hudson's Bay station in the territory,
much pleased with the speed and general handiness of
his English built boat, in which he had accomplished a
distance of no less than 312 miles in about sixty hours ;
but this rapid travelling was in a great measure due to
a fair wind and a swift current. Fort Good Hope was
left the following day, and the sea was eventually reached
on the 14th. Captain Franklin bears testimony to the
general accuracy of Mackenzie's survey. Some of this
traveller's positions were, it is true, found to be some-
what at variance with those determined by Franklin,
but the differences in latitude and longitude were ascribed
to the possibility of their having been laid down by
magnetic bearings, and not by astronomical observa-
tions. Franklin pays a just and generous tribute to
the energy, courage, and skill shown by Mackenzie
during his arduous and trying journey. During their
voyage down the river they met several parties of
Indians, with all of whom they had friendly intercourse,
and from whom they received small supplies of fresh
provisions, although at first they were somewhat shy
and suspicious at the unexpected approach and appear-
ance of the white men.
The sea, to their great joy, was found to be entirely
free of ice, while " seals and black and white whales were
sporting on its waves." Altogether it was a sight that
gladdened their hearts, as it gave rise to hopeful antici-
pations of ultimate success.
On reaching the coast a silk Union Jack, worked
by the weak and feeble fingers of his sick wife, was
unfurled. This flag was given to her husband, as he
was on the point of leaving England, with strict injunc-
1828.] HIS WIFE'S FLAG UNFURLED. 159
tions that it was not to be displayed until the expe-
dition had reached the Polar Sea. When Franklin
bade her farewell it was with the conviction that the
hand of death was upon her, and that he should see
her no more in this world ; but obedient to the call of
his country, and exhorted by her own earnest pleadings
that he should proceed on the important, though dan-
gerous, service for which he had been selected, with his
heart overflowing with feelings of sorrow and despond-
ency, he accepted the gift, assuring his wife that he
should not fail to think of her when he planted it, as
he felt sure he would, on the wild and inhospitable
shores of the Arctic Sea. It must therefore have been
with mingled feelings of joy and sorrow, that he saw
this last souvenir of his dearly loved wife fluttering out
bravely in the wind, in full view of the Polar Ocean,
in fulfilment of his pi-omise. In a letter to his sister-
in-law, written shortly after his return to their winter
quarters, Franklin, in alluding to his having reached
the sea on the 16th of August, writes — " Here was first
displayed the flag which my lamented Eleanor made,
and you can imagine it was with heartfelt emotion I
first saw it unfurled; but in a short time I derived
great pleasure in looking at it."
The position of the mouth of the Mackenzie ltiver
was found to be in latitude 69° 29' N., and 135° 41' W.
longitude. Depositing a record of the progress of the
expedition thus far for the information of Captain Parry,
in the event of that officer reaching the neighbourhood,
and making it as conspicuous as possible by the erec-
tion of a long pole, to the top of which was hoisted a
blue and red flag, and having thoroughly explored the
country in the vicinity of the mouth of the river, fchej
160 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
commenced the return journey, and without any event
worthy of special record reached their winter quarters
on the Great Bear Lake on the evening of the 5th of
September. They found that Dr. Richardson had re-
turned a few days before them, having made a successful
survey of the lake to its north-east termination, where
it is nearest to the Coppermine River.
Here at Fort Franklin, for so the post had been named
in compliment to their leader during his temporary
absence, the members of the expedition were for the
first time united. They found the houses that had been
erected for their accommodation by their comrade Mr.
Back, both commodious and comfortable, and all that,
under the circumstances, could be desired. The estab-
lishment consisted of three buildings, which were so con-
structed as to form the three sides of a square. The
centre one was appropriated to the officers, one was
allotted to the men as their quarters, and the other was
used as a store and provision house. The number of
persons to be accommodated in this establishment was no
less than fifty, viz. — five officers (including Mr. Dease),
nineteen seamen and marines, nine Canadians, and two
Eskimos, the remainder being made up of Indians, men,
women, and children, whose services were required for
the purposes of hunting, fishing, and for the general
supply of game and other provisions. The position of
Fort Franklin was ascertained to be latitude 65 n' 56",
and longitude 123 12' 44".
The winter passed pleasantly enough, and although
the cold was great it was not insufferably so, the
lowest recorded temperature being 49 below zero
(Fahr.). The Indian hunters succeeded in procuring
a fair amount of game and fish during the winter,
1828.] PLANS FOR SUMMER CAMPAIGN. 161
although in February, in consequence of a temporary
failure in obtaining supplies, they were necessarily re-
duced to a very short allowance of provisions. The officers
occupied their spare time in taking thermometrical,
magnetic and atmospheric observations, besides others
of a scientific nature. They likewise superintended the
school that Franklin established during the winter months,
as well as the strict observance of the regular routine
that was wisely instituted. As another boat was con-
sidered desirable, the carpenters were busily employed on
the construction of one on somewhat similar lines to the
Lion, the boat they had brought out from England with
them. This boat, when completed, was called the Reliance.
The arrangements for the summer campaign were
briefly as follows : — Captain Franklin, accompanied by
Lieutenant Back, was to explore by boat along the north
coast of North America to the westward of the mouth
of the Mackenzie River, if possible to Icy Cape. Dr.
Richardson, with Mr. Kendall as his colleague and com-
panion, was to undertake the eastern line of exploration,
including the examination of the coast from the mouth
of the Mackenzie to the Coppermine River, returning to
Fort Franklin before the winter set in. Mr. Dease
would remain at Fort Franklin with directions to keep the
establishment well stored with provisions for use during
the ensuing winter, in the event of Franklin failing in
his attempt to communicate with the Blossom (see page
154 ante). It was, therefore, necessary to make provision
on the chance of the entire party having to pass another
winter at the post. Fourteen men, including two Cana-
dians, with Augustus the Eskimo interpreter, under Cap-
tain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with the two boats
Lion and Reliance, formed the western party ; while ten
L
162 LIFE OF SIE JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
men, with the two smaller boats, the Dolphin and Union,
under the command of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall,
were entrusted with the eastern line of exploration.
Everything being in readiness, a start was made on
the 24th June. The two parties travelled in company
down the Mackenzie River until the 3rd July, when
they reached that part of the river where it bifurcated
to the east and to the west, Franklin pursuing his course
along the latter route, while Richardson proceeded by
the former. They were all supplied with provisions to
last an anticipated absence of one hundred days.
Franklin reached the coast on the 7th of July, and
on the same day met a tribe of Eskimos numbering
about three hundred. At first their intercourse was
friendly enough ; but the cupidity of these savages being
excited by the articles of, to them, priceless value that
they saw, an attempt was made to pillage the boats,
but this outrage was frustrated by the coolness and
forbearance of Franklin and his men. It afterwards
transpired that a massacre of the whole expedition had
been arranged, and was only prevented by the vigilance
and preparedness of the party. On arrival at the sea they
were intensely mortified to find that their progress to the
westward was checked by heavy masses of ice. These,
however, in the course of four or five days, during
which time the expedition was compelled to remain
inactive, cleared away sufficiently to leave a passage
along the coast, and so enabled them to push on. Gales
of wind and fogs were unfortunately very prevalent,
and sadly interfered with their progress. The boats
were also very roughly handled, and were frequently
in danger of being crushed by the large fragments of
ice with which they were constantly coming into con-
1828.] ONWARD, IN SPITE OF DIFFICULTIES. 163
tact, and which had the effect of causing them to leak
considerably. In spite of all these drawbacks, they
steadily persevered, using oars and sail according to
circumstances, watchiDg and taking advantage of every
opportunity for pushing onwards, battling against all
difficulties, and striving to their utmost each day to
beat the record of the last in the distance accomplished.
Their general course was as nearly as possible in a
westerly direction, along a low flat shelving coast, in
water so shallow as to compel them to keep at a distance
of from two to three miles from the shore. As accurate
a survey of the coast as was practicable was made as
they proceeded ; it was, however, found to be devoid of
all bays or harbours in which a ship could obtain shelter,
or remain securely at anchor.
They were not infrequently detained by bad weather,
fogs, and impenetrable ice, and on one occasion the deten-
tion was for no less a period than eight consecutive days.
During these unavoidable stoppages the members of the
expedition were not inactive, for they would seize on
these opportunities to take astronomical observations,
as well as those to determine the magnetic inclination,
variation, and intensity, besides observations on the rise,
fall, and direction of the tides. The geology of the
country along which they travelled was also carefully
studied, and many valuable specimens of natural history
were added to their collection.
During all this time the torments they endured from
the pertinacious attacks of countless swarms of musqui-
toes were indescribable ; they were regarded as quite the
greatest of the sufferings they were called upon to endure !
It is a somewhat significant fact that a point of land on
the north coast of America was, during the journey,
164 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
named Point Griffin by Captain Franklin, presumably
after the lady who subsequently became his wife.
At length, on the 18th of August, having traced the
coast westward, from the mouth of the Mackenzie River,
for 374 miles, Captain Franklin very reluctantly came
to the conclusion that further advance would be im-
prudent, taking into consideration the lateness of the
season, and the self-evident fact that he had only
traversed half the distance between the Mackenzie River
and Icy Cape. Before he could hope to accomplish the
remainder of the distance that intervened, winter would
have set in, and the Blossom would, in consequence,
have sailed to the southward. He therefore wisely de-
cided to return. To the most extreme point seen to
the westward he gave the name of Cape Beechey.
It is interesting to note here that the Blossom had
successfully carried out her part of the programme,
and was off Icy Cape during the middle of August.
Thence Captain Beechey despatched one of his boats to
the eastward, in the hope of meeting Franklin. This
boat actually arrived on the 25th of August within 160
miles of tbe position reached by Franklin when he
resolved to turn back a week before. It would not, how-
ever, have been possible for Franklin to have accomplished
the distance that lay between them, before the Blossom's
boat returned to the westward, so that had he persevered
in hopes of meeting it, he and his party would in all
probability have perished during the winter. It was
therefore a wise and discreet resolve on Franklin's part
to return. The extreme position reached was latitude
70 26' N., and 148 52' W. longitude. The return
journey was very similar to the outward one, except
that they suffered more from cold and less from mus-
1828.] RETURN OF THE TWO EXPEDITIONS. 165
quitoes ! Through the friendly warning of the Eskimos,
they were able to frustrate a plot to assassinate the whole
party that had been laid by a tribe of hostile Indians
near the mouth of the Mackenzie. This diabolical scheme
was prevented by their taking a different route on their
return to the one along which they had travelled on
their outward journey. The Mackenzie was reached on
the 30th August, and the expedition arrived, intact and
in good health, at Fort Franklin on the 21st September.
The total number of geographical miles travelled by the
party since leaving Fort Franklin until their return was
2048, a third of which distance was through a perfectly
unknown country.
They were much elated to find that the travellers to
the eastward had also made a very successful journey,
having succeeded in tracing no less than 863 miles of un-
discovered coast-line situated between the Mackenzie and
Coppermine Rivers ; they returned to Fort Franklin by
way of the Coppermine River, reaching that post on the
1st September. Like the western party they reported
having experienced strong gales of wind, and their pro-
gress was much hampered by ice, in which their boats
were often seriously injured, being frequently exposed to
the risk of being crushed altogether. They met several
parties of Eskimos, all of whom afforded convincing proofs
of their dexterity in the art of pilfering, and it was
only by the exercise of great tact and forbearance, on
the part of Dr. Richardson and his people, that an open
rupture was avoided. An accurate survey of the coast
was made by Lieutenant Kendall, while Dr. Richardson
made many valuable observations in connection with the
geology and natural history of the country.
A large bay, discovered on the 22 nd of July, was
166 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1825-
named Franklin Bay; in conferring this name upon it, the
Doctor, in his narrative, indulges in the following eulo-
gistic remarks regarding his able and talented leader : —
"In bestowing the name of Franklin on this remarkable
bay, I paid an appropriate compliment to the officer under
whose orders and by whose arrangements the delineation of
all that is known of the northern coast of the American
continent has been effected ; with the exception of the parts
in the vicinity of Icy Cape discovered by Captain Beechey.
" It would not be proper, nor is it my intention, to descant
on the professional merits of my superior officer ; but after
having served under Captain Franklin for nearly seven years
in two successive voyages of discovery, I trust I may be
allowed to say, that however high his brother officers may
rate his courage and talents, either in the ordinary line of his
professional duty, or in the field of discovery, the hold he
acquires upon the affections of those under his command, by a
continued series of the most conciliatory attentions to their
feelings, and an uniform and unremitting regard to their best
interests, is not less conspicuous. I feel that the sentiments
of my friends and companions, Captain Back and Lieutenant
Kendall, are in unison with my own, when I affirm, that
gratitude and attachment to our late commanding officer will
animate our breasts to the latest periods of our lives."
On August 4th, Wollaston Land was discovered to
the northward, and the channel between it and the
mainland was called Dolphin and Union Strait, after
the two little boats in which they were embarked. On
the 7 th they had the extreme satisfaction of entering
George 4th Coronation Gulf, and so connected their
discoveries with those of Captain Franklin during his
voyage in 1820 —
" Thus," as Dr. Bichardson writes, " completing a portion of
the north-west passage for which the reward ol ^5000 was
1828.] DR. RICHARDSON'S SUCCESSFUL JOURNEY. 167
established by His Majesty's Order in Council ; but as it was
no; contemplated in framing the order that the discovery should
be made from west to east, and in vessels so small as the
Dolphin and Union, we could not lay claim to the pecuniary
rewird."
The successful issue of their voyage enabled them
to return by a shorter and a better route than that
adopted for the outward journey. On the following day
the mouth of the Coppermine River was reached, and
after proceeding up it for some miles, the boats and every-
thing that was not absolutely necessary to be transported,
were abandoned, and the journey commenced on those
same barren lands, over which Franklin and his party
had toiled and endured such sufferings during the pre-
vious expedition, but this time under more favourable
conditions ; the load carried by each man was 7 2 lbs.
Without any further event worth recording, the party
reached Great Bear Lake on the 18th of August,
and on the 1st of September arrived at Fort Franklin,
having accomplished a wonderfully successful journey,
during which they traversed a distance, by land and by
boat, of 1980 geographical miles, of which 1015 were
new discoveries. Immediately on his return to Fort
Franklin, Dr. Richardson started off to prosecute his
geological and natural history researches in the neigh-
bourhood of the Great Slave Lake, where he passed the
following winter.
Franklin and his people were, of course, compelled to
spend another winter at Fort Franklin ; but having a
plentiful supply of provisions and other necessaries, and
also plenty of work to do in the way of plotting the
charts connected with their discoveries, and arrang-
ing their scientific observations, it passed quickly and
168 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FEANKLIN. [182T.
pleasantly enough, in spite of the temperature falling
during the month of February to 58° below zero, the
lowest that any of the party had hitherto experienced.
By a packet of letters which was conveyed to them by
an Indian messenger during the winter, they were all
much pleased and gratified to find that their popular
companion, Lieutenant Back, had been promoted to the
rank of commander.
On the 20th February 1827, Captain Franklin being
desirous of reaching England as speedily as possible, left
the Fort, in company with five men, leaving instructions
for Captain Back to proceed to York Factory with the
remainder of the party as soon as the ice should break
up; thence they were to sail for England in the Hud-
son's Bay Company's ship, which it was anticipated
would be leaving in the autumn. Franklin reached Fort
Simpson on the 8th of March ; here he remained a few
days in order to rest and recruit the health of his dogs,
and arrived at Fort Resolution, on the Great Slave Lake,
on the 26th. The return to this neighbourhood must
have brought vividly to Franklin's mind the terrible
sufferings and privations he had endured in that same
locality only a few years previously. Fort Chipewyan
was reached on the 12th of April, and here a stoppage
of six weeks was made. This place was left on the 31st
May, and on the 1 8th June, Franklin and his small party
arrived at Cumberland House, where he had the inex-
pressible happiness of meeting with Dr. Richardson after
a separation of eleven months. From him he learned
that Mr. Drummond, the assistant naturalist, had been
most indefatigable in collecting natural history speci-
mens. He had travelled, with that object in view,
as far as the Rocky Mountains, having been exposed
JANE LADY FRANKLIN.
(At the age 0/24.)
1828.] HONOURS BESTOWED ON FRANKLIN. 171
during his wanderings to very great hardships and
privations.
From Cumberland House, Franklin and Richardson
travelled together to Montreal and New York, and
arrived in England on the 26th September 1827, after
an absence of two years and seven and a half months.
Commander Back, with the remainder of the party,
reached Portsmouth fourteen days later.
The geographical result of this expedition was the
discovery and accurate delineation of over a thousand
miles of the north coast of the American continent,
hitherto absolutely unknown. The geological, mag-
netical, meteorological, topographical, and other scientific
observations, made by the different members of the
expedition, were of the greatest value and interest,
more especially those relating to the Aurora Borealis.
The important work performed by the members of the
expedition was fully appreciated on their return to
England, both by the Admiralty and the learned
societies, who were unanimous in their acknowledgment
of the value of the services rendered, and their appre-
ciation of the skill and ability that had been displayed
by officers and men in carrying them out.
France also, not to be behindhand in her admiration
at the way in which the leader of the expedition had
achieved such a signal geographical success, presented
Captain Franklin, shortly after his return to England,
with the Paris Geographical Society's gold medal, valued
at 1200 francs, for having made "the most important
acquisition to geographical knowledge " during the year.
On the 29th April 1829 Captain Franklin received the
honour of knighthood ; and on the following 1st of July
the honorary degree of D.C.L. of Oxford was conferred
172 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1828.
upon him, at the same time that a similar honour was
bestowed on Sir Edward Parry.
These events are thus alluded to in the prize poem
recited in the theatre at the Commemoration, on the
occasion, by T. Legh Claughton —
" But fairer England greets the wanderer now,
Unfading laurels shade her Parry's brow ;
And on the pnnid memorials of her fame
Lives, linked with deathless glory, Franklin's name."
On the 5th November 1828 Franklin married Jane,
second daughter of John Griffin, Esq., of Bedford Place,
a lady of great culture and rare intellectual powers, and
one who was in every way qualified to be the friend,
adviser, and helpmate of a man of Sir John Franklin's
energy and disposition. Her life and character as a
woman and a wife are written on the pages of the
history of our country.
CHAPTER XI.
PARRY'S THIRD EXPEDITION — HIS ATTEMPT TO
REACH THE POLE— SIR JOHN ROSS— DISCOVERY
OF MAGNETIC POLE— FRANKLIN IN THE MEDI-
TERRANEAN—GOVERNMENT OF VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND.
1824-1844.
" Where's the coward that would not dare
To fight for such a land ?" — Marmion.
Although Captain Franklin had failed, through no want
of energy or fault of his own, in the actual accomplish-
ment of the north-west passage, he was fully impressed
with its practicability, and openly maintained on his
return his own views regarding the feasibility of its
achievement in ships. But from his recent observations,
especially those relative to the general drift of the ice in
the Polar Sea and the prevailing winds that were ex-
perienced by his party during their sojourn in that
locality, he was of opinion — an opinion that was not, how-
ever, shared by his distinguished brother officer, Captain
Parry — that the attempt should be made from the west-
ward through Bering's Strait, instead of from the East.
Recent experience has proved that he was not far wrong
in his conclusions, and the remarkable voyage made in
1850, and two following years, by Captain Collinson in
the Enterprise proves in a great measure that his opinions
173
174 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
were formed on sound and well-considered principles,
and, as such, were worthy of due consideration
Parry's third expedition, 1 which had been, as will be
remembered, directed to act in concert with Franklin,
in the event of falling in with any of his party on their
line of exploration, also unhappily ended in failure.
Sailing from England in the Hecla and Fury on the
19th May 1824, Parry, in consequence of unavoidable
detentions in Baffin's Bay, caused by the unusual
amount of ice that was collected there during that
particular season, did not reach Lancaster Sound until
the 10th of September. The season was then far ad-
vanced, and he found to his intense mortification that
the young ice which was rapidly forming proved such an
impediment to his advance, that he was reluctantly com-
pelled to relinquish further attempts to push on, and was,
therefore, obliged to seek winter quarters ; he eventually
secured his two ships on the 27th September in a small
harbour named Port Bowen, on the east side of Prince
Regent Inlet. Here the winter was passed, and in the
spring of 1825 sledging parties were despatched, which
added largely to our geographical knowledge of those
parts. On the 20th July the ships succeeded in breaking
out of their winter quarters, and standing across to the
west side of the inlet, pursued a southerly course. They
were, however, almost immediately beset by the ice, in
which they were drifted rapidly up the inlet. Being
powerless to direct their course, the unfortunate Fury
was after a time driven on shore, and completely
wrecked. Her stores and provisions were landed at the
scene of her disaster, which was named Fury Beach,
while her officers and crew were received on board the
1 See p. 153, ante.
1844.] SCHEME FOR REACHING NORTH POLE. 175
Hecla, for conveyance to England. They arrived at
Sheerness in October, and the Hecla was shortly after-
wards paid out of commission.
Parry was much disappointed at the unfortunate result
of a voyage from which he had expected so much ; but
although it was not in his power to command success,
yet no man ever deserved it more than Sir Edward
Parry, especially in Arctic enterprise. In concluding his
account of the narrative of this voyage he writes —
" May it still fall to England's lot to accomplish this under-
taking, 1 and may she ever continue to take the lead in enter-
prises intended to contribute to the advancement of science
and to promote, with her own, the welfare of mankind at
large. Such enterprises, so disinterested as well as useful in
their object, do honour to the country which undertakes them,
even when they fail ; they cannot but excite the admiration
and respect of every liberal and cultivated mind, and the page
of future history will undoubtedly record them, as in every
way worthy of a powerful, virtuous, and enlightened nation."
In less than two years after his return from this un-
successful attempt to achieve the north-west passage by
Prince Regent Inlet, the energetic Parry was again
employed on Polar exploration, being entrusted with the
command of an expedition that had for its object the
discovery of the northern terrestrial pole of the earth.
This enterprise was in accordance with a scheme of
his own, plans of which he had previously submitted for
the consideration of the Admiralty. Ilis idea was to
proceed in a ship as far as Spitzbergen, whence, leaving
the vessel securely established in some snug anchorage,
a party with boats and sledges were to be despatched
for the purpose of reaching the Pole. The Hecla, Parry's
old ship, was selected for this service, and he w r as accom-
1 The north-west passage.
176 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
panied by many old shipmates who had served with him
on previous expeditions. They sailed from England on
the 3rd of April 1827, and after touching at Hammer-
fest, arrived off the coast of Spitzbergen about the
middle of May; but it was not until nearly a month
later, that they succeeded in finding a harbour in which
the ship could be safely secured. All the necessary
arrangements being completed, the exploring party,
consisting of the two boats Enterprise and Endeavour,
under the command respectively of Captain Parry and
Lieutenant James 0. Ross, with a crew in each of two
officers and twelve men, left the Hecla, and proceeded
northwards. So long as the sea remained fairly open
good progress was made, but when the ice was closely
packed, and the boats, with all the necessary impedi-
menta, had to be dragged across the floes, the toilsome
and irksome nature of the work began to tell upon
the men. The roughness of the ice added materially
to the arduous nature of their work, and their diffi-
culties culminated when it was discovered that a
strong current was carrying them to the southward
at a greater rate than they were advancing to the north-
ward. Under these mortifying circumstances Parry,
convinced of the futility of further perseverance, de-
cided to return, having reached the latitude of 82° 45',
a higher northern position than had been attained by
any previous navigator. The ship was reached in
Treurenberg Bay on the 21st of August, the party having
been absent sixty-one days. On the 28th the Hecla
sailed for England, and, by a strange coincidence, Frank-
lin arrived at Liverpool from his journey along the Arctic
coast of America at the same time that Parry reached
Inverness. These two gallant explorers arrived at the
1844.] SIR JOHN ROSS'S VOYAGE. 177
Admiralty within ten minutes of each other, and great
was the mutual surprise and joy of the two friends at
such an unexpected meeting after so long a separation.
"With the return of these two officers from their ad-
venturous voyages in 1827, public interest in Arctic
exploration appears generally to have languished. Pro-
bably the supposed risk, combined with the cost con-
nected with the equipment of these Arctic expeditions,
were considered too great and serious to justify any
further attempts being made, at the public expense,
with the view of discovering either the Pole or the
north-west passage. But although the Government of
the day evinced a strong disinclination to prosecute
further research in high northern latitudes, private enter-
prise, as will, we hope, always be the case, stepped in
to attempt that which previous Government expeditions
had failed to accomplish. In 1829, a small vessel, named
the Victory, 1 fitted out at the expense of Sir Felix Booth,
sailed from England, under the command of Sir John
Ross, with the object of discovering the north-west
passage. With Captain Ross was associated his nephew,
the gallant James Ross, who was the companion and
colleague of Parry in his eventful voyage towards the
North Pole in 1827.
Sailing up Lancaster Sound and Prince Regent Inlet
without experiencing much difficulty from ice, the Victory
was secured in winter quarters on the east coast of Felix
Boothia. In the following spring, a sledge party, under
the command of James Ross, succeeded in discovering
1 The Victory was fitted with a small auxiliary engine, and with
paddle-wheels, eight feet in diameter, so arranged that they could be
lifted out of the water when under sail or in ice-encumbered seas.
Steam, therefore, would only be of use in calm weather, and when
the sea was free of ice.
178 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
and reaching the position of the North Magnetic Pole,
in latitude 70 5' 17", and longitude 95° 46' 45" W., on
the western coast of Boothia. For three long years the
unfortunate Victory was inextricably frozen up in her
first winter quarters, although every attempt was made
to release her. She was at length abandoned in 1832,
and the party proceeded northwards down Prince Regent
Inlet, in the hope of falling in with some stray whaler.
Unsuccessful in their search for relief, they were com-
pelled to pass a fourth winter at Fury Beach, where the
stores and provisions saved from the Fury when she was
wrecked in 1825 l materially aided in their support and
sustenance. In the following year they were providen-
tially rescued by a whaler in Lancaster Sound, which
was reached by them in their boats ; they were eventually
brought to England, where they were regarded as men
risen from their graves, for hopes of their safety had
almost been abandoned. It is a curious coincidence that
the whaler that rescued Captain Ross and his men was
the Isabella, the same ship that he commanded in 1818
when he made his first voyage to the Arctic regions.
Sir John Franklin, having enjoyed a well-deserved
repose after his long and almost continuous service in
the furtherance of Arctic exploration, was engaged all
this time on duties, if not of the same arduous and
perilous nature, of at any rate, great importance and
responsibility. On the 23rd of August 1830 he was
appointed to the command of the twenty-six gun frigate
Rainbow, then fitting out at Portsmouth for service in
the Mediterranean. This vessel had been paid off the
previous year after a four years' commission on the East
Indian and China station, under the command of Captain
1 See p. 174, ante.
1844.] SAILS FOR THE MEDITERRANEAN. 179
the Hon. H. J. Rous, who subsequently made a reputat ion
for himself by the skilful and masterly way in which he
succeeded in navigating the frigate Pique safely across
the Atlantic, without a rudder and in an otherwise help-
less condition. He is, however, perhaps better known
from his long connection with the Jockey Club, where
his good influence was felt for many years.
The Rainbow, being ready for sea, sailed out of Ports-
mouth Harbour under double-reefed topsails on the nth
November 1830, and after touching at Plymouth, pro
ceeded to her station. Mr. Kay, a nephew of Sir John
Franklin, served in her as a lieutenant, and Owen
Stanley, who became a skilful and accomplished sur-
veyor, was a mate in the ship. Two days after leaving
Plymouth, a little excitement was caused by sighting
the wreck of a brig with only the stumps of her lower
masts standing, rolling heavily in the long Atlantic
swell. Franklin at once bore down to her relief, with
the object of succouring the crew, in the event of any of
the unfortunate people being still in her. On approach-
ing the wreck, they hailed to know if any one was on
board, but as no reply was given, Franklin determined
to satisfy himself by a nearer inspection, and took
his ship so close that they actually came into collision,
when the Rainbow received some slight injuries to her
mizen chains and quarter gallery. They remained by
the wreck for a couple of hours, repairing their own
damages, and endeavouring to attract the attention of
any one who might be on board, the state of the sea
and weather rendering communication by boat im-
possible. Having satisfied themselves that the wreck
had been abandoned, and that there was no possibility
of saving life, the Rainbow proceeded on her course.
180 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
For a long time Franklin carried out the onerous
duties of senior naval officer in Greece, and especially at
Patras, during the disturbances in that country. During
those troublous times he was frequently called upon to
land his men for the purpose of preserving order and for
the protection of the inhabitants ; he had also to organise
a defence against the rebellious irregular soldiery, whom
he prevented, on more than one occasion, from pillaging
and destroying the town. He likewise did good service
in embarking refugees, and conveying them to places of
safety. For his successful exertions in maintaining law
and order, and generally for his efficient and important
services during the War of Liberation, he was created
by King Otho a Knight of the Redeemer of Greece.
On his return to Malta the Rainbow flew the flag,
temporarily, of Rear- Admiral Briggs, who succeeded to
the command of the Mediterranean station on the death
of Admiral Hotham. The log of the Rainbow during her
commission is replete with useful sailing directions, and
other interesting hydrographical information.
That Sir John had the comfort and welfare of his men
at heart is evident, for the name of his ship was pro-
verbial on the station for the happiness and good feeling
that prevailed on board. She was called the Celestial
Rainbow, and the sailors used to allude to her as Frank-
lin's Paradise ! She returned to England in December
1833, and was paid out of commission at Portsmouth on
the 8th of January following. In recognition of his
services off Patras, Sir John Franklin, on his return
to England, was made a Knight Commander of the
Guelphic order of Hanover.
Before leaving the Mediterranean, he received the
following letter from the Commander-in-Chief, Admiral
1844.] HIS VALUABLE SERVICES IN GREECE. 181
Sir H. Hotham, written a short time only before his
death. It is dated on board the Royal Alfred at Malta,
March 29, 1S33. After acknowledging the receipt of Sir
John Franklin's letter reporting proceedings, he writes —
" In the concluding operations of the service you have so
long and so ably conducted in the Gulf of Patras and Lepanto,
I have great satisfaction in repeating the approbation which
I have already at different times expressed of your measures
in the interests of Greece, and in the maintenance of the
honour and character of the English nation and of H.M.'s
Navy on that station ; wherein you have entirely fulfilled
my instructions and anticipated my wishes. I also take this
opportunity of commending the judgment and forbearance
which you have exhibited under circumstances of repeated
opposition and provocation ; and to your calm and steady
conduct may be attributed the preservation of the town and
inhabitants of Patras ; the protection of commerce ; and the
advancement of the benevolent intentions of the Allied
Sovereigns in favour of the Greek nation."
These were high encomiums from his Commander-in-
Chief, and plainly show the great estimation in which
Franklin was held by his superiors. A copy of this
communication was forwarded to the Admiralty by Sir
John, in an official letter dated June 18, 1834, written
from 21 Bedford Place, in which he made an earnest
appeal to be employed on futher active service.
Prior to leaving Patras, Sir John Franklin received
the following letter from Mr. G. W. Crowe, the English
Consul at that place : —
"British Consulate, Patbab,
2$th March 1833.
"My dear Sir John, — While I beg leave to offer you my
congratulations upon being at length released from the anxious
and wearisome duly that has detained you before this town
182 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
for the last twelve months, I cannot refrain, at the same time,
from expressing the regret I feel upon my own account in
losing your society and that of your officers, which has so
agreeably relieved a period that would otherwise have been
of unmitigated annoyance and vexation.
"The humane object of your mission is now completely
fulfilled. You have the satisfaction to witness the termina-
tion of the miseries of the inhabitants of this city, and of the
misrule and violence that so long and heavily oppressed them —
violence restrained from the worst and grossest excesses only
by your presence, being awed into respect by the dignified
calm which you ever preserved under circumstances of great
irritation.
" But for your forbearance the city, just rising from its ruins,
had ceased to exist. You now see tranquillity and order re-
stored to their homes, and a few days have been sufficient
to reanimate the activity of commerce.
" Patras owes you a deep debt of gratitude, and I trust feels
the obligation. For myself, I hope I need not assure you that
I can never forget your unvarying kindness, and that I am
sensible of the high value of the friendly and cordial regard
with which you have continued to know me. For weeks
together your ship afforded a home— a kind home — to my
family, and the Rainbow will ever be remembered by them
with the feelings which home excites."
These letters plainly show the high appreciation in
which the services of Sir John Franklin, whilst in
command of the Rainbow, were held by those who were
perhaps the best qualified to judge.
It was, in all probability, in consequence of the
aptitude displayed by Sir John Franklin in carrying
out the delicate services, more or less of a diplomatic
nature, that he was called upon to render on the coast
of Greece, that induced the Government to offer him,
shortly after his return from the Mediterranean, the
Lieutenant-Governorship of Van Diemen's Land, in
1844.] GOVERNOR OF VAN DIEMENS LAND. 183
succession to Colonel Arthur. This he accepted, but it
was on the express understanding that he might be
allowed to resign his appointment in the event of war
breaking out, and his being selected for a command.
Taking passage on board the ship Fairlie, and accom-
panied by Lady Franklin, his daughter, and niece, 1 the
new Governor landed at Hobart Town in January 1S37,
when he immediately assumed the reins of Government,
relieving Colonel Kenneth Snodgrass, who had been
acting temporarily until his arrival. Ever mindful of
the value and importance of hydrography, one of the first
acts of the Lieutenant-Governor was to make a requisi-
tion to the Imperial Government for means to enable him
to carry out a more perfect survey of the channels lead-
ing towards the anchorage at Hobart Town. This appli-
cation was viewed with favour by the home authorities,
and Lieutenant Burnett was appointed by the Admiralty
to carry out this service under the directions of Sir John
Franklin. The new Governor's attention was, for some
time, much occupied by the presentation of various
memorials from the settlers claiming grants of land,
which, they averred, had been allotted to them without
title-deeds or other documents by which their claims could
be substantiated. All these had to be thoroughly sifted
in order that justice should be impartially administered.
One of the most popular measures introduced by Sir
John was the admission of the public to the debates
of the Legislative Council. While interesting himself
in the general well-being of the community at large, he
also devoted much time and reflection to the welfare and
discipline of the convicts on the island, for at that period
1 Miss Sophia Cracroffc, the constant companion and devoted friend
of Lady Franklin.
184 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
a very large penal establishment existed in the neigh-
bourhood of Hobart Town.
Shortly after he assumed office, Sir John Franklin,
realising the want of sufficient means for educating the
rising generation in the colony, made strenuous exer-
tions to obtain from the Home Government a charter for
the formation of a college on a large and liberal scale.
In this he was supported by his Legislative Council,
who voted the substantial sum of ^2500 towards the
institution. On the recommendation of the late Dr.
Arnold, head-master of Rugby, who warmly espoused the
cause, the Rev. J. P. Gell was sent out from England
for the purpose of organising such an establishment as
should meet the requirements of the colonists, and on
the 7th of November 1840, with imposing ceremony,
the foundation-stone of the proposed building was
laid at New Norfolk by Sir John Franklin, in the
presence of all the local officials and a large assemblage
of the inhabitants. In consequence, however, of dissen-
sions and disputes with the various religious denomina-
tions, and the selfish opposition of those who wished
the college to be built in Hobart Town, instead of
at New Norfolk, the Imperial Government withdrew
its support, and the scheme fell through. Mr. Gell, 1
however, proceeded to establish a superior school in
Hobart Town, on such a scale and system, that it
would, he hoped, if properly supported, eventually develop
into a college, and so be the means of giving a liberal
education to the sons of colonists, and thus prepare
them for entering the learned professions.
1 Mr. Gell married Sir John Franklin's daughter by his first wife.
She died in i860. Mr. Gell was Vicar of St. John's, Notting Hill,
from 1854 to 1878, when he was given the Rectory of Buxted in
Sussex.
1S44.] REFUSES INCREASE OF SALARY. 185
So impressed was Sir John Franklin with the necessity
of an institution of this description, that, before leaving
the island, he presented a donation of ^500 towards
it, while Lady Franklin made the munificent gift of 400
acres of land which she had purchased, with a museum,
which, under her direct auspices, had been established
on it, in trust for the benefit of any collegiate institu-
tion that might be established with the approbation and
sanction of the Bishop of the diocese. On an increase
to the Lieutenant-Governor's salary being voted by the
Colonial Legislature, Sir John, in fitting terms, declined
to accept it during his tenure of office, but took pains
to ensure the augmentation of it being secured for his
successor. Shortly after his arrival in the colony, he
founded a scientific society at Hobart Town, which is
now called the Royal Society of Tasmania. The meetings
were held at Government House, where the papers
(which were afterwards printed at Sir John's expense)
were read and discussed.
It was during Sir John's term of government that the
island was visited by the ships of the Antarctic expedi-
tion under Sir James Ross, to which it will be desirable
to make a brief allusion.
In 1838, at a meeting of the British Association in
England, a resolution was passed to the effect that a re-
presentation should be made to the Government regard-
ing the importance of despatching an expedition to the
Antarctic Seas, for the purpose of carrying out synchronal
magnetic observations in connection with other stations
established in various parts of the world; also to en-
deavour to obtain observations in terrestrial magnetism
in a high southern ktitude, of which there had hitherto
been a great deficiency — in fact, none at all of any value.
186 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
This representation, having received the approval and
support of the learned societies, as well as that of the
leading scientific authorities of the day, was favourably
received by Her Majesty's Government, who seemed to
be fully imbued with the opinion that practical naviga-
tion would undoubtedly derive important benefits from
the results that would assuredly accrue. An expedition
was, in consequence, ordered to be fitted out, and the
command of it was entrusted to Captain James Ross.
It consisted of the Erebus, an old bomb ship of 370 tons,
and the Terror, of 340 tons. 1 The command of the
latter vessel was given to Captain Crozier.
The Terror, it may be observed, had only the previous
year, under the command of Captain Back, returned from
an unsuccessful attempt to reach Repulse Bay. Her
narrow escape from destruction by the ice in Hudson's
Bay, and her subsequent marvellous passage across the
Atlantic in an almost sinking condition, although of
thrilling interest, need not here be repeated. The in-
juries she sustained were repaired, and when selected
to form one of the ships in Ross's expedition she was in
every way fitted for the hazardous service on which it
was decided to employ her.
Captain Ross, in his sailing directions, was ordered to
place himself in communication with Sir John Franklin
on his arrival in Van Diemen's Land, while Sir John
was, at the same time, instructed to render all the
assistance in his power to Captain Ross, to select the
most advantageous position for the erection of a magnetic
observatory, and to prepare the necessary instruments.
1 These two ships, it should he remarked, were the identical vessels
that, subsequently, under the command of Sir John Franklin, com-
prised the ill-fated expedition that left England for the discovery
of the north-west passage.
184 1.] PROMOTES ANTARCTIC EXPLORATION. 1S7
One of the principal objects of the expedition was to
endeavour to determine, if possible, the position of the
South Magnetic Pole.
The ships sailed from England in 1839, an ^ """ere
absent for a period of four years. It is not my object
to record the doings of this most important expedi-
tion, the only one on a large scale that has ever been
despatched from any country for exploration in the
Antarctic Seas. It is simply alluded to here because of its
connection with Sir John Franklin, who was Lieutenant-
Governor of Van Diemen's Land, during the time that
the vessels were engaged on this particular service, when
they spent two winters at Hobart Town. It may be
safely inferred that Sir John took the keenest interest in
the ships, and did all in his power, not only to promote
the scientific work of the expedition, but also exerted
himself to the utmost in endeavouring to make the
time pass pleasantly for the officers and men during
their stay in Tasmania. The magnetic observatory was
erected under the personal superintendence of Sir John,
and many of the observations were actually taken by
him, assisted by his son-in-law, the Rev. J. P. Gell.
When the expedition sailed, after the first winter spent
at Hobart Town, Franklin's nephew, Lieutenant Kay,
was left behind in charge of this observatory.
Captain Ross, in his exceedingly interesting narrative
of the expedition, thus alludes to the great assistance
he received at the hands of the Governor : —
" If the deep-felt gratitude of thankful hearts be any grati-
fication to our excellent friend Sir John Franklin, who not
only evinced the most anxious desire, but sought every oppor-
tunity of promoting the objects of our enterprise, and con-
tributing to the comfort and happiness of all embarked in it,
188 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
I am sure there is not an individual in either of our ships,
who would not most heartily wish to express those sentiments
towards him, and also to every member of his family, for their
great kindness to us during our prolonged stay at Hobart
Town."
Alluding to the excellent administrative qualities of
Sir John Franklin, Captain Ross, in the same work,
writes : —
"Under the wise and judicious government of Sir John
Franklin, the revenue of the colony had so greatly increased,
that although involved deeply in debt when he arrived in the
country, by prudent and well-arranged measures the debt had
been liquidated, and a superabundant income produced."
But it was in all probability due to the undoubted
success he achieved whilst administering the government
of Van Diemen's Land, that a bitter and vindictive feel-
ing was raised against him in the hearts of some few
of the colonial officials, who regarded with jealousy the
increasing popularity of the Governor. This feeling
found expression in attempts to place difficulties in
his way while carrying out the duties that devolved
on him in the proper administration of the government,
and commenced as early as 1841, when the Director
of Public Works was dismissed from his office for the
unsatisfactory way in which his duties were performed,
combined with "an obstinacy of temper and a disposi-
tion to enter into long and unnecessary correspondence."
In 1843 the police magistrate was suspended from his
duties for incautious and partial administration of justice,
for want of temper, and for various other complaints
with which he was charged. This was done with and by
the advice of the Executive Council.
1844.] DISMISSES THE COLONIAL SECRETARY. 189
These acts led to the appearance in the local press,
of some very hostile criticisms of his government, and
also of himself personally, in which Sir John was openly
accused of resorting to all sorts of unscrupulous means in
order to attain his own ends. These scurrilous attacks
were believed to be inspired by the Colonial Secretary,
who was accordingly called upon by Sir John for an
explanation, which was of so unsatisfactory a character
that Sir John suspended him from his official duties.
This was, of course, a very strong measure to take,
especially with an official holding such a high position
as the Colonial Secretary, and could only be justified
by extreme provocation. The charges brought against
the Colonial Secretary by the Lieutenant-Governor
were —
i. Assumption of undue influence.
2. His having threatened, and subsequently put in
practice, a species of passive resistance, by not giving
proper assistance in the transaction of official business.
3. Having neglected to take any notice of articles
in a local newspaper (said to be established under his
patronage) reflecting on Sir John and the members of
his family.
4. The tone of his communication when charged by
Sir John with these offences.
A long, and somewhat acrimonious, correspondence
with the Home Government ensued with regard to this
unfortunate affair, resulting eventually in the removal
of the Colonial Secretary to a similar post at the Cape
of Good Hope. Sir John's action in this matter was not
supported by the Secretary of State for the Colonies
(Lord Stanley), who informed the Governor in an official
despatch that he " was not justified, on his own showing,
190 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-
in dismissing " his Colonial Secretary. He was further
informed that this officer " retires from the situation he
has so long filled with his public and personal character
unimpaired, and with his hold on the respect and con-
fidence of Her Majesty's Government undiminished."
This despatch was, practically, a censure on the Lieu-
tenant-Governor, and it was a rebuke all the more keenly
felt in consequence of its having been published without
authority in the local press. On the 20th January 1S43,
Sir John wrote a masterly vindication of his conduct in
reply to this despatch, concluding with a request that
as he did not possess the confidence of Her Majesty's
Government, so indispensable for his own honour and
the due discharge of his functions, he hoped Lord Stan-
ley would relieve him from his government as early as
possible. Sir John also addressed a confidential letter
to his lordship on the 26th July 1843, urging his re-
consideration of the case, and hoping that he would give
it his serious attention ; at the same time expostulating
against the system of persecution to which he had been
subjected in consequence of Lord Stanley's despatch, and
the machinations of the late Colonial Secretary and his
adherents in the colony.
In the following month he was suddenly relieved of
his office as Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land
by Sir Eardley Wilmot, who arrived, unexpectedly, on
the same day, indeed in the same ship, that brought the
announcement acquainting Sir John of his successor's
nomination. He was therefore placed in an extremely
embarrassing situation by the sudden advent of the new
Governor, being in actual possession of Government
House at the time ; he was also naturally much annoyed
at the want of courtesy that was thus shown him, as
1844.] ABLE VINDICATION OF HIS CONDUCT. 191
well as the great injustice that was done, in placing him
in such a painful and humiliating position. He left
Hobart Town in the same ship that took him out, the
Fairlie, and reached England in May 1844, having
been Governor of Van Diemen's Land for a period of
over six and a half years.
That the views of the Secretary of State for the
Colonies were not shared by the people of Hobart Town,
is evident from the demonstrations of regret that were
made by all classes at his departure, and from the
numerous addresses, both public and private, expressing
satisfaction at the way in which he had administered
the government of the colony, and regret at his departure,
that poured in upon him from all sections of the com-
munity. The feelings expressed by the colonists at that
time were subsequently emphasised in a more practical
manner some ten years later, by the substantial assistance
sent to Lady Franklin, in the shape of a sum of ^1700,
to aid her efforts in endeavouring to discover the fate
of her husband, and also by the fact of the erection, at
the public expense, of a statue in his honour at Hobart
Town.
Sir John Franklin, on his return to England, wrote a
complete vindication of the way in which he had carried
out the high and important duties that devolved upon'
him as Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land, but
this publication did not appear until after he had sailed
on what proved to be his last voyage. In this article he
severely criticises the action of Lord Stanley, whom he
stigmatises as " haughty and imperious."
In alluding to this painful incident in the career of
Sir John Franklin, Sherard Osborn writes : — " His sen-
sitive and generous spirit chafed under the unmerited
192 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1824-44.
treatment he had experienced from the Secretary of
State for the Colonies; and sick of civil employment,
he naturally turned again to his profession as a better
field for the ability and devotion he had wasted on a
thankless office."
w
PRO-
J-
i w
s&
■ S-
65'
r
CHAPTER XI L
FRANKLIN'S LAST VOYAGE.
1845-
' ' We are well persuaded
We carry not a heart with us from hence
That grows Dot in fair consent with ours ;
Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish
Success and conquest to attend on us."
— Henry V.
The subject of Arctic exploration, more especially with
regard to its relation to the discovery of a north-west
passage, had been permitted to remain in abeyance by
the Government for some years — in fact since the return
of Sir Edward Parry from his unsuccessful attempl to
reach the North Pole in 1827.
It is very true that the interest of the public in the
far north was, for a shoit time, revived by the prolonged
absence of the two Rosses, to which a brief allusion has
been made in the preceding chapter, and a land expedi-
tion was despatched by Government, under the command
of Captain Pack, in 1833, for the purpose of .seeking for
them. Tin's officer was ordered to proceed by the Greal
Fish River to the northern shore of Arctic America,
whence he was to endeavour to reach the neighbourhood
of Cape Garry, where, it was anticipated, Intelligence "t'
the missing expedition mighl he obtained, for it was
193 s
194 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1845.
well known that Captain Ross in some measure relied
for support, in case of undue absence, on the stores
that were landed from the Fury when that vessel was
unfortunately wrecked in 1823. The Rosses, as has
already been narrated, were picked up and brought
home by a whaler in 1833 ; l and this intelligence was
communicated to Captain Back in a despatch that was
forwarded by the Hudson's Bay Company, and which
was handed to him before he was altogether out of reach
of letters. The main object of the expedition having
therefore been otherwise happily accomplished, Captain
Back proceeded, in accordance with his instructions, to
explore the Great Fish River to its mouth. This was
successfully achieved, the expedition reaching, on the
1 6th August 1834, its most northern point in King
William Island. It returned to England the following
year, when Captain Back's efforts in the furtherance
of geographical and scientific research were acknowledged
and appreciated in a fitting manner.
On the return of Captain Back, the Royal Geogra-
phical Society urged the Government to undertake the
exploration of the North American coast between the
Point Turnagain of Franklin and the position reached
by Back to the eastward, maintaining that the suc-
cessful performance of this exploration would, doubtless,
result in the completion of the north-west passage.
The Government, fully endorsing these views, gave
directions for the fitting out of the Terror, and selected
Captain Back, who had but recently returned from his
land journey, to the command. His orders were to
proceed through Hudson's Strait to the Wager River
or to Repulse Bay ; thence he was to endeavour to pene-
1 See page 178.
1845.] INTEREST IN POLAB EXPLORATION. 195
trate into Prince Regent Inlet, and make a thorough
examination to the east and to the west, with the object
of connecting his own discoveries with those of Ross
and Franklin. The Terror sailed from England on the
24th of June 1836 ; she was beset by the ice in Hudson's
Strait in the following September, in which she drifted
helplessly, daily expecting destruction, for the ensuing ten
months. When released, the ship was found to have re-
ceived such injuries as to necessitate her immediate return
to England, but she was in such a crippled state that she
had, after a perilous and eventful voyage, to be run on
shore on the west coast of Ireland to prevent her sinking.
The return of the Antarctic expedition in 1843 omv
more aroused public interest in matters connected with ex-
ploration in high latitudes, and this interest was kept alive
by the writings and efforts of English men of science and
naval officers, who urged the necessity of the continuance
of further exploration. In the words of worthy old
Master Purchas, who wrote 250 years ago, the discovery
of the north-west passage was the only " thing yet un-
done where bye a notable mind might be made famous."'
This long sought for passage was at last to be dis-
covered, and the " notable mind " that was to achieve
the distinction which the solution of the problem would,
according to Master Purchas, entitle him to, was no less
a person than Sir John Franklin, who had already suc-
ceeded in mapping out, by actual personal exploration,
a very large portion of the passage. He had, as we
have endeavoured to trace, by patient perseverance, by
great ability, energy, and indomitable pluck, in spite
of unparalleled difficulties and unprecedented sufferings,
in a rigorous climate and in an inhospitable and barren
country, succeeildl in showing to the world .it large,
196 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1845.
that there was no service which Englishmen were not
capable of undertaking, and no hardships or privations
that would make them waver or flinch in the performance
of their duties and in carrying them out to a successful
issue.
In fact, Sir John Franklin had, as we have already
shown, written his name with no light or feeble hand
in large and unmistakable characters along the entire
face of our North Polar map, and he was, even at that
time, the actual discoverer of all, but a very small portion
that yet remained to be explored, of the long talked
of, but yet undiscovered, north-west passage.
Our geographical knowledge of the hitherto almost
mythical regions that centred at the northern apex of
our globe was, in 1845, considering our ignorance at
the beginning of the century, considerable. Parry had
succeeded in pushing to the westward with his ships
in a high latitude, through Lancaster Sound and
Barrow's Strait, as far as the 114th meridian of west
longitude, while the northern coast of North America
had been thoroughly explored from Bering's Strait to
the 94th meridian of west longitude. The discoveries
therefore, eastward and westward, overlapped each other
by twenty degrees of longitude.
To Franklin, it will be remembered, was due the
exploration of the north coast of America from Cape
Turnagain westward to Cape Beechey, a survey extending
over forty degrees of longitude. Captain Beechey, it
will also be remembered, explored from Bering's Strait
to the eastward as far as Point Barrow, leaving only 160
miles undiscovered between his furthest eastward position
and the most western one of Franklin's.
These two positions were, however, connected in 1837
THOMAS SIMl'SUN.
1845.] RENEWAL OF ARCTIC RESEARCH. 190
by Messrs. Dease and Simpson, two officers of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, who had been specially despatched
for the purpose of completing this portion of the un-
surveyed coast-line. In the two following years they
turned their attention to the eastward, and connected
the coast-line between Cape Turnagain and Back's
Great Fish River. They also explored the south coast
of YVollaston or Victoria Land, as well as the southern
shore of King William Island, from Cape Herschel to
Point Booth. The extreme eastern position reached
by these able and indefatigable explorers was the
Castor and Pollux River. The entire North American
coastline had thus been delineated. All therefore that
remained to be discovered, in order to make the north-
west passage uu fait accompli, was the finding of a
channel running in a north and south direction for a
distance of a little under 300 miles, or about half the
distance between John o' Groat's and the south coast of
England. That such a channel existed there was but
little doubt, but whether it would be, when found, prac-
ticable for ship navigation, was a question yet to be solved.
It is therefore not surprising that an attempt should be
made to complete the discovery of the passage.
Sir John Barrow, who was at the time Secretary of
the Admiralty, and who has so happily been termed the
'• father of modern Arctic discovery," we may be sure,
was not idle. He was fully sensible of the necessity for
a renewal of Arctic research, and he was as keen as ever
in his advocacy regarding the importance of exploration
in high latitudes. When a man like Sir -John Barrow,
who was prepared with a plan for the prosecution of the
search for a north-west passage, and who was supported
in his views by such authorities on Arctic matters as Sir
200 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1845.
Francis Beaufort, Sir Roderick Murchison, Sir Edward
Parry, Sir James Ross, Captain Sabine, and even Sir
John Franklin himself (who had just returned from his
administration of the government of VanDiemen's Land),
advocated the resumption by England of Polar explora-
tion, it is not to be wondered at that the earnest and
logical pleadings of these great and eminent geographers
met with a favourable response. An expedition was in
consequence decided upon, and it was resolved that its
main object was to be the forging of the last link that
would connect the chain of previous discoveries, and so
achieve the actual accomplishment of the north-west
passage.
The decision was a popular one, not only in the country,
but also in the naval service. The announcement was
no sooner promulgated than hundreds of gallant hearts
sent in their names as volunteers to accompany the
expedition, and to serve in any capacity in the event
of their services not being required in the particular
rank they held in the navy. Candidates also for the
post of leader were not wanting, but this post Sir John
Franklin claimed as his special right, as being the senior
Arctic officer alive in a position to assume it. "No
service," he said, " is nearer to my heart, than the
completion of the survey of the north coast of America,
and the accomplishment of a north-west passage."
Lord Haddington, the First Lord of the Admiralty,
on being informed that Sir John was desirous of being
appointed to the command, at once sent for him, and
gladdened his heart by complying with his wishes ; but
thinking that Sir John might have become somewhat
rusty in matters connected with his profession after his
long sojourn on shore, and also perhaps wishing to afford
1845.] SIB JOHN CHOSEN AS LEADER. 201
him the opportunity of declining the command, in the
event of his only having proffered his services from a
keen sense of honour and duty, suggested that after the
good and useful geographical work he had already per-
formed, he might now deservedly rest on his well-earned
laurels, and intimated that perhaps his age might be a
bar to his being selected, as he was informed that he was
sixty years of age. " No, my lord," was Franklin's ready
but earnest response; "you have been misinformed — I
am only fifty-nine ! " This decided the question, and
Franklin was accordingly appointed to the command.
The selection of the leader having been satisfactorily
arranged, Sir John drove home, and on his arrival,
suddenly announced to his wife and niece that he had
been offered, and had accepted, the command of the ex-
pedition. He was wild with delight at the honour thus
conferred upon him, and could hardly conceal his enthusi-
astic impatience to get away as speedily as possible.
The ships selected for the service were the Erebus and
Terror. They had only recently returned from the ser-
vice on which they had been engaged under Sir James
Ross in the Antarctic, but they had been completely over-
hauled and thoroughly repaired after the hard buffetings
they had received from the southern ice, and were, in con-
sequence, prepared in every way that human skill and
ingenuity could devise, to undergo similar or even worse
treatment from the ice floes of the north. Captain
Crozier, who was second in command in the Antarctic
expedition, was selected to act in a like capacity to
Sir John, and was appointed to the command of his
old ship the Terror, while Sir John flew his pendant
in the Erebus. Commander James Fitzjames, an able,
popular, and accomplished officer, was appointed to the
202
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
[1845.
Erelms as second in command under Franklin. As the
principal object of the expedition was the advancement
of science, the remainder of the officers were selected as
being specially suited by their scientific acquirements,
CAPTAIN FITZJAMES.
professional knowledge, and robust and vigorous constitu-
tions, for the service on which they were to be employed.
Among those appointed was Dr. Goodsir, an eminent
naturalist. The complement of each ship was sixty-seven
officers and men, making a total of twenty-three officers
1845.] FRANKLIN'S SAILING ORDERS. 203
and in men — in all, 134 souls. Stores and provisions
were put on board the ships for an anticipated absence
of three years. The vessels were also lifted with screws
and auxiliary engines, capable of working up to about
twenty horse-power. This was the first time that the
screw, as a means of propulsion in ships, was ever used
in the Arctic Seas, but it was, as may be imagined from
the power provided, only to a very limited degree.
Sir John Franklin's orders were to the effect that he
was to make the best of his way up Lancaster Sound
to the neighbourhood of Cape Walker, in about 74
N. latitude, and 98° W. longitude. Thence he was to
use his utmost endeavours, by working to the southward
and westward, to push on in as direct a line as possible
towards Bering's Strait ; but much was left to his own
discretion, and he was to be guided by any circumstances
that might incidentally arise. That these orders were in
accordance wifh Franklin's own views and wishes is quite
certain. Sherard Osborn, writing in 1859, makes the
following remarks —
" That tins southern course was that of Franklin's predilec-
tion, founded on his judgment and experience. There are many
in England who can recollect him pointing on his chart to the
western entrance of Simpson Strait, and the adjoining coast of
North America, and saying, ' If I can but get down there, my
work is done ; thence it's plain sailing to the westward.'"
xVll the arrangements being completed, the expedition
sailed from England on the 19th of May 1845, officers
and men in the very best of spirits, and all fully resolved
to do their utmost to bring the voyage to a successful
issue, and so set at rest, and for ever, the long vexed
question of the existence of a north-west passage. Sir
John Franklin was specially careful to promote this
204 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1645.
proper and commendable spirit evinced by those under
his command. Shortly after their departure from
England, he called all his officers together, and carefully
explained to them the objects of the expedition, and his
views as to the course that should be pursued in order
to obtain the most successful results. He read out to
them a portion of the instructions he had issued to
the officers of the Trent, on his first Polar expeditiou,
and pointed out to them the necessity of noting every-
thing that occurred, no matter how trivial it might at
the moment be considered, for future reference and
study. He also iu formed them that their journals,
remark books, sketches, &c, would be required of them
on their return to England, for transmission to the
Admiralty. As Captain Fitzjames, in a letter to his
friend Mr. John Barrow l writes —
" He spoke delightfully of the zealous co-operation he
expected from all, and his desire to do full justice to the
exertions of each."
With such a pleasant and happy feeling, and such a
perfect understanding, pervading the minds of Sir John
and those under his command, it is not surprising that
all were cheerful and enthusiastic regarding the ultimate
success of the expedition.
We obtain a little insight into the friendly and
harmonious feeling that existed among those on board
the Erebus, and the manner in which their time was
passed on the voyage to Greenland, from some charm-
ingly written letters sent home by Fitzjames, which
have been kindly placed at my disposal by his friend
Mr. John Barrow. As these epistles contain many allu-
1 The son of Sir John Barrow.
1845.] EXTRACTS FROM FITZJAMES'S LETTERS. 205
sions to the esteem and respect in which Sir John
Franklin was held by all on board, no apology is
necessary for the insertion here of a few extracts from
them, illustrative of the private character of Sir John
and the happy feeling that reigned on board his ship.
So confident were they of accomplishing the north-
west passage, that Fitzjames gave explicit directions for
his letters to be sent to Petro-Paulowski in Kamchatkii,
via St. Petersburg, in the event of no tidings of the
expedition being received before the ensuing June. He
also tells his friend, Mr. Barrow, to
•• Write on speck to Panama and the Sandwich [slands every
six months." "Have a letter wailing for me at Panama on
speck next January.' 1 " Mind, I say we shall get through the
north-west passage this year,and I shall land at Petro-Paulowski
and shake you by the hand on the 22nd February 1846."
On the day they left Stromness, he says —
"We drank Lady Franklin's health at the old gentleman's
table, and it being his daughter's birthday, hers too."
Alluding to Sir John, he writes : —
"1 like a man who is in earnest. Sir John Franklin read
the church service to-day and a sermon so very beautifully,
that I defy any man not to feel the force of what he would
convey. The first Sunday he read was a day or two before
we sailed, when Lady Franklin, his daughter, and niece
attended. Every one was struck with his extreme earnest-
ness of manner, evidently proceeding from real conviction."
Again : —
•• Sir John is delightful, active, and energetic, and evidently,
even now, persevering. What he has been, we all know. I
think it will turn out that lie is in no ways altered. He is
lull of conversation and interesting anecdotes of his former
206 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1845.
voyages. I would not lose him for the command of the ex-
pedition, for I have a real regard, I might say affection, for
him, and believe this is felt by all of us. In our mess we are
very happy; we have a most agreeable set of men, and I could
suggest no change, except that I wish you were with us."
In a subsequent letter he tells us : —
"Sir John is full of life and energy, with good judgment
and a capital memory— one of the best I know. His conver-
sation is delightful and most instructive, and of all men he is
the most fitted for the command of an enterprise requiring
sound sense and great perseverance. I have learnt much
from him, and consider myself most fortunate in being with
such a man, and he is full of benevolence and kindness withal.''
Again he writes, in much the same strain : —
" We are very happy and very fond of Sir John Franklin,
who improves very much as we come to know more of him.
He is anything but nervous or fidgety — in fact, I should say
remarkable for energetic decision in sudden emergencies ; but
I should think he might be easily persuaded, when he has not
already formed a strung opinion."
That his nerve was as good as ever is apparent from
the following extract from one of Fitzjames's letters —
" I can scarcely manage to get Sir John to shorten sail at all "
— so anxious was he to push on, and take advantage of
every available clay of the short navigable season.
Of course the main object of the expedition, viz., the
discovery of the north-west passage, was ever uppermost
in their thoughts, and frequently formed the principal
topic of conversation at the dinner-table, and in the
officers' mess. We obtain a glimpse into Sir John's
views on this important subject from the following
sentence in another of Fitzjames's letter's ; —
1845.] VESSELS REACH COAST OF GREENLAND. 207
" At dinner to-day, Sir John gave us a pleasant account of
his expectations of being able to get through the ice on the
coast of America, and his disbelief in the idea that there is
open sea to the northward. He also said he believed it to he
possible to reach the Pole over the ice, by wintering at Spitz-
bergen, and going in the spring before the ice broke up and
drifted to the south as it did with Parry on it."
Lieutenant Fairholme also, in a private letter, thus
alludes to their leader : —
"Sir John is in much better health than when we left
England, and really looks ten years younger. He takes an
active part in everything that goes on, and his long experi-
ence in such services makes him a most valuable adviser.
We are very much crowded— in fact, not an inch of stowage
has been lost, and the decks are still covered with casks.
Our supply of coals has encroached seriously on the ship's
stowage ; but as we consume both fuel and provisions as we
go, the evil will be continually lessening."
Stromness, in the Orkney Islands, was reached on
June ist, and left two days after. Boisterous weather
.Hid head winds were encountered during their passage
across the Atlantic. On the 24th June, Cape Farewell
was rounded, and on the following day they saw their
first ice, consisting of numerous large icebergs, through
which they had to thread their way, " some of them fall-
ing with an awful roar and rising of the sea; " but the
scenery, especially to those inexperienced in Arctic navi-
gation, was grand and majestic.
On the 4th July the expedition came to an anchor <>lf
the Whale Fish Islands, near the island of Disco, on the
west coast of Greenland. Here they completed with
stores and provisions from a transport, the Barretto
Junior, which had accompanied them out from England
208 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1845.
for that purpose, and to which they discharged five of
their men who had been invalided and sent to her for
passage to England. As the transport just alluded to
was the last vessel that communicated with the ill-fated
discovery ships, it will be interesting to insert a few
extracts from a letter written by Lieutenant Griffiths,
who was in command of her, to Mr. John Barrow, on
his arrival in England. He writes : — ■
"The two ships were perfectly crammed, and were very
deep, drawing seventeen feet. I felt quite low-spirited on
leaving Sir John and his officers — better fellows never
breathed. They were all in the highest possible spirits, and
determined on succeeding if success were possible. I have
very great hopes, knowing their capabilities, having witnessed
their arrangements, and the spirit by which they are actuated
— a set of more undaunted fellows never were got together, or
officers better selected. Never were ships more appropriately
fitted or better adapted for the arduous service they have to
perform. Yes, indeed, certain I am if there be a passage, and
that icy barriers will be only sufficiently propitious to give
them but half the length of their ship, force themselves
through they will at all risks and hazard. God speed them
and send them back by Bering's Strait to their native Eng-
land, covered with imperishable fame."
Lieutenant Griffiths also reports that
" He left them with every species of provisions for three
entire years, independently of five bullocks. They had also
stores for the same time, and fuel in abundance."
Sir John, in his last despatch to the Admiralty, written
at this time, says —
" The ships are now complete with supplies of every kind
for three years. They are therefore very deep, but happily
we have no reason to expect much sea as we proceed further."
1845.] PROGRESS OF THE SHIPS. 209
On the 10th of July, they parted company with the
transport, and sailed from the Whale Fish Islands; on
the 26th of July the two ships were seen made fast to
the ice in Melville Bay, in about 74° 48' N. latitude, and
66° 13' W. longitude, by Captain Dannet, of the Prince
of Wales, a whaler from Hull, who received a visit from
some of the officers of the expedition ; this was, so far as
is known, the last time the unfortunate vessels were seen,
at any rate by Europeans. After this date, although
traces of the missing ships were discovered many years
after, all is conjecture, all must be left to the imagination,
to complete one of the saddest stories that has ever been
told in connection with Arctic enterprise.
We will, however, endeavour to dovetail together the
various scraps of information that have subsequently
come to our knowledge, and so trace the proceedings of
the expedition from the time when it was last seen by
the whaler Prince of Wales until the sad and bitter end
came, but it must be clearly understood that the greater
part of what is here set forth must, of necessity, be purely
conjectural.
The ships, we know, pursued their solitary way
through Baffin's Bay towards Lancaster Sound. Enter-
ing this broad channel, they sailed along the coast of
North Devon, continuing their course to the westward ;
but ice, that unconquerable foe with which the Arctic
explorer has to battle, effectually barred the passage,
and prevented further advance in that direction. Well-
ington Channel, however, to the northward, appeared
to be open, and up this they sail, hoping that it may
eventually lead in a westerly direction, and carry them
into the eagerly sought for passage. But they are
doomed to disappointment, for alter sailing up thia
o
-J10 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FKANKLIN. [1845-
channel for a distance of about 150 miles, they are again
stopped by their relentless and implacable enemy the
ice, and are compelled to turn to the southward ; but
their return is made by a different channel to that up
which they sailed, a newly-discovered one, which they
found to exist, separating Cornwallis and Bathurst
Islands, and which ultimately brought them again into
Barrow's Strait, about one hundred miles to the westward
of the entrance to Wellington Channel, up which they
had previously sailed.
Unmistakable signs of the closing in of the navigable
season were now apparent; the hills and valleys were
already covered with their snowy mantle, and the young
ice was beginning to form on the surface of the water
to such a thickness as to materially impede the progress
of the ships. Taking all these circumstances into con-
sideration, and finding that there was no prospect of ad-
vancing further to the westward that season, the ships
retraced their steps a short distance to the eastward,
and were ultimately secured in snug winter quarters
in a partially protected harbour on the north-east side
of Beechey Island, the adaptability of which as winter
quarters had, in all probability, been remarked and noted
by Franklin as he passed up Wellington Channel.
The ensuing winter probably passed as most Arctic
winters do, in a pleasant and cheerful manner. The
officers busily occupied themselves in their various scien-
tific pursuits, looking after the health and welfare of their
men, and earnestly discussing among themselves their
future plan of operations, and their prospects of ultimate
success ; the men in the meantime being actively engaged
in those multifarious duties that are incidental to a
winter in the Arctic regions, such as banking the snow
1845.]
FIRST WINTER QUARTERS.
211
against the sides of the ships, building snow-houses
for various purposes, keeping the lire-hole clear in the
ice, 1 and other minor details connected with the routine
and ordinary duties of a man-of-war. AVe may safely
infer that everybody was profitably employed, and that
they were also happy and cheerful. As the rays of the
,.('.Sprl.l <-|
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S
WINTER QUAKTEKS,
1845-46.
From a Survey by Cam. W. ./. & /'
KKANKLl.Xa WINTER QUARTERS, BEECHEY ISLAND.
returning sun shed their beams on the distant hills,
sporting parties were doubtless organised for the purpose
1 The "lire-hole" is a large hole that is made in the ice, in the
immediate vicinity of the ship, from which to obtain water in the
event of fire breaking out. This fire-hole 1ms frequently, day and
night, to be kej>t clear of the ice which forms on its surface. This
is the oidy way by which a constant supply of water can be kept
ready in the event of fire breaking out, for the pumps of a ship are,
of course, rendered useless in winter from the pipes all being choked
by the water becoming frozen in them.
212 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FKAMKL1N. [1845.
of scouring the adjacent country in search of game, for
fresh animal food, they were well aware, was essential to
the perfect preservation of health. A man like Sir John
Franklin, with the experience of several Arctic winters
to look back upon, knew well that in order to preserve
his men in health he must keep tbem cheerful and in
good spirits, with their minds and their bodies fully
occupied.
Although perhaps the ardent and enthusiastic Fitz-
james was somewhat disappointed at the failure of the
expedition to reach a more advanced position before seek-
ing winter quarters, still, on the whole, they could regard
with satisfaction the result of their work during the
preceding autumn, for in their passage up Wellington
Channel and down the New Strait to the west of Corn-
wallis Island, they had explored and mapped 300 miles
of new coast-line, and they were keenly sensible of the
fact, that only 250 miles of the unknown, intervened
between their furthest point and the accomplishment of
the north-west passage, namely, the distance between
Cape Walker to King William Island. They were
therefore, presumably, elated with the cheering prospect
that was before them, of satisfactorily solving the great
problem that had so long puzzled and vanquished the
many bold navigators who had preceded them, and they
all looked forward with eager excitement to the termi-
nation of winter, when they would be able to continue 5
what they felt assured would prove, a most successful
voyage.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE LAST DAYS.
1 846- 1 848.
" O world ! bo few the years we live,
Would that the life that thou dost give,
Were life indeed !
Alas ! thy sorrows fall so East,
Our happiest hour is when at last
The soul is freed."
The long Polar night, with all its monotony and cheer-
lessuess, at length came to an end, and in the month
of February they hailed with joyful delight the return
of tlic sun which had been absent for so many weeks,
and which they knew heralded the approach of summer,
and was the harbinger of that navigable season during
which they hoped, and expected, to carry to a successful
issue the ardent aspirations that animated the breast of
each individual member of the expedition. Death, how-
ever, had not been idle in the little community during
its sojourn at Beechey Island, for they had to mourn the
loss of three of their number — two seamen who died in
January, and a marine who died in April. They were
buried on the island, and the finding of these solitary
graves, with their simple head-boards and appropriate
epitaphs, were among the first indications, discovered five
years afterwards, of the expedition having wintered I here.
213
214 LIFE OF SIE JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
On the release of the ships from their winter quarters,
which event, in all probability, did not occur until July
or August, a course was shaped to the westward towards
Cape Walker, the furthest point reached by them in a
westerly direction the previous year. We may assume
that the usual difficulties inseparable from ice navigation
were experienced by Franklin and his gallant followers ;
we may also rest assured that these obstacles were re-
solutely grappled with and manfully overcome. Their
chief was not a man to shrink from either difficulty or
danger, and he well knew he could safely rely upon the
support of his officers and men in the hour of trial.
Yet the difficulties in pushing on in the required direc-
tion must have been very great in his heavy, slow-sailing,
bluff-bowed ships, for the steam-power at his disposal
was so limited as to be only of use in perfectly calm
weather, and in a smooth sea free of ice.
We know well from the records of previous navigators,
and also from subsequent experience, that the ice to the
westward of Barrow'.s Strait, and in the neighbourhood of
Cape Walker, is of an exceedingly formidable description.
In spite, however, of the ponderous nature of the ice,
Franklin persevered in his endeavom^s to get through,
and seeing a channel open to the southward he pushes
into it, for surely, he thinks, it will eventually lead in
the right direction. He knew, if this channel did not
end in a cul de sac, and if the ice permitted him to
force his ships through, that the last link in the chain
would be forged, and the north-west passage would be
triumphantly achieved. This channel, separating North
Somerset from Prince of Wales's Land, is now called
Peel Strait.
All went merrily ! everything pointed to a speedy and
J. FRANKLINS TRACK.
1348.] VESSELS CAUGHT IX THE ICE. 215
successful termination to their voyage. Sailing past
the west coast of North Somerset, they fight their way
bravely mile by mile, and almost inch by inch, along the
coast of Boothia Felix, until they perhaps get a glimpse
of King William Island, and almost feel that success
is actually within their grasp. But alas ! although the
distance that intervenes between their ships and absolute
success is, perchance, only a little over one hundred
miles, their further progress is suddenly arrested, their
vessels are caught and held fast in the rigid embrace of
the ice, and thus, fast frozen in a solid and impenetrable
pack, they are doomed to pass their second winter.
Little did the poor fellows then imagine, when they were
busily engaged in making the necessary arrangements for
passing that winter, that their ships were inextricably
frozen in — never again to cleave the blue water of the
ocean, never to rise and fall on its heaving billows,
never to be released from their icy fetters, until their
poor battered hulls are rent and riven by their victorious
enemy, the ice.
To winter in the pack is known, happily, only to a
few — to pass two successive winters in the ice is an
experience that has, fortunately, been vouchsafed to
fewer still ; yet the brave survivors of the Erebus and
Terror were destined not oidy to pass one, but two long,
weary, successive winters, helplessly beset, and firmly
frozen up in their icy bondage. 1
Who can describe the sufferings, the dangers, the
monotony, the eager hopes, to bo succeeded by bitter
disappointments, experienced by those unfortunate men
during those two fearful winters? They are known
1 The position in which the ships wintered was latitude 70 5' N.,
n 1 1 < I longitude 98 23' \V.
216 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
only to Him, the Supreme Ruler of the Universe, and
will never be revealed to mortal man. How keen
must have been the suspense, and how intense the
disappointment, felt by all when the following summer,
that of 1847, dragged out its weary length, and still
the ships remained irrevocably frozen in their icy
cradles, without any symptoms being apparent of the
disruption of the pack. This feeling must have been all
the more quickened, when they remembered that only
a few short miles lay between them and the successful
accomplishment of that grand achievement, " the only
thing whereby a notable mind might be made famous,"
which they had undertaken to risk, and if necessary lay
down their lives, in order to bring to a successful issue.
Once clear of the ice, and, they thought, all further diffi-
culties would be overcome and every obstacle removed
from their path.
As day succeeded day during that long summer and
equally long and weary autumn, so did hope animate
their hearts, but at length the days began to shorten and
despondency succeeded hope as the sun sank below the
southern horizon, to be, alas ! seen no more by many
on board the two ill-fated ships, its last rays flicker-
ing intermittently in the heavens with bright pris-
matic colours as it disappeared, not to return for
long weary months, ominously symbolical of the fate
that was so soon to overtake them.
The winter, we may be sure, was not one of ease,
comfort, or enjoyment. There was little now to cheer the
drooping spirits of this still undaunted band. Their pro-
visions were getting low, their ships were helpless logs
firmly fixed in a relentless grip, and they whispered
among themselves that help, to be of any avail, must
1848.] WINTEB IN THE PACK 217
be forthcoming before a third winter seized them in its
dread and inhospitable grasp. During those long dreary
winter months, the ships were exposed to all the dangers
inseparable from a winter in the pack, subjected to severe
ice-pressures which, for all we know to the contrary, so
strained and damaged the hulls of the already sorely
stricken vessels as to render them almost, if not wholly,
un seaworthy.
And so the second winter came and went, and the
summer sun once more shone forth and gladdened the
hearts of those on board with joyful anticipations of
release, and the hope that they might yet live to see
their efforts crowned with success. As the daylight
returns, King William Island, covered in its white garb
of winter, was occasionally seen to the southward. Once
past that sterile and dreary-looking coast, and the north-
west passage would be accomplished, for they would then,
they well knew, connect with Simpson's, Ross's, and
Back's discoveries ; but alas ! an ice-encumbered sea
intervened, choked with thick-ribbed ice, through which
it was impossible to force their heavy and perhaps
seriously damaged ships.
The summer was not allowed to pass, however, with-
out some attempt at exploration, for in the month of
May, a travelling party was organised and despatched
with the object of exploring the shores of King William
I -land. It consisted of two officers and six men, and
was commanded by Lieutenant Graham Gore, the first
lieutenant of the Erebus. The ollicer that accompanied
him was .Mr. Charles F. Des Vceux, mate, belonging to
the same ship. Of these two officers, Fitzjames, in one
of his letters, written to Mr. Barrow on the passage t"
Greenland, writes : —
218 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
" Graham Gore is a man of great stability of character, a
very good officer, and the sweetest of tempers. He plays the
flute dreadfully well, draws sometimes very well, sometimes
very badly, but is altogether a capital fellow."
He died on board the Erebus during the succeeding
winter.
Of Des Vceux he says : —
" He is a most unexceptionable, clever, agreeable, light-
hearted, obliging young fellow."
The party left the ships on Monday, 24th May, and
succeeded in reaching Point Victory x on King William
Island ; thence pushing on towards Cape Herschel they,
perhaps, saw in the distance the continent of North
America, and realised that the long sought for passage
had been discovered, and could be actually accomplished
if they were but able to force their ships through the
short icy channel that intervened. Depositing a record, 2
containing a brief account of their visit, they hurried
back to their ships to impart the joyful tidings to their
comrades, in order that they also might share in the
exultation that they could not but help feeling at
having ascertained the successful result of the voyage.
The record was simply a few lines written on a printed
form supplied to ships for the purpose of being corked
up in a bottle and thrown overboard, with the object
of ascertaining the set of tides and currents.
The lines written by Graham Gore on this printed
1 This point of land was named by Captain James Ross in 1S30 after
his ship ; it was the furthest point to the westward reached by that
distinguished navigator on King William Island.
2 This record was discovered by Lieutenant Hobson in 1859, while
serving in the Fox under Sir Leopold M'Clintock.
1848.] FRANKLIN ON HIS DEATH-BED. 219
form were to the effect that the Erebus and Terror
wintered in the ice in latitude 70 5' N., and longitude
98 23' W., having wintered in 1S46-7 l at Beechey
Island in latitude 74' 43' 28" X., longitude 91° 39' 15"
"W., after having ascended Wellington Channel to lati-
tude 77°, and returned by the west side of Cornwallis
Island. It adds, somewhat significantly, that Sir John
Franklin was still in command of the expedition, but
that all were well. This paper is dated the 28th of May
1847, and is signed by both Gore and Des Vbeux. 2
On their return to the Erebus they found a scene of
sorrow and mourning which, perhaps judging from the
somewhat ominous wording of their record, was not
wholly unexpected. They found their beloved chief, he
who had before, so often and in so many shapes, been
face to face with death, stricken down, fighting his last
battle with that unconquerable foe to whom the bravest
must eventually strike their colours and yield. Sir John
Franklin, after a long, honourable, and distinguished
career, after a life more eventful and adventurous than
usually falls to the lot of man, lay on his death-bod.
Silently were their hands pressed by their sorrowing
shipmates as they crossed the gangway, and sorrowfully
was the sad news whispered in their ears, in response
to the anxious inquiries as to the health of their leader,
who they knew would have been the first to welcome
them on board, had not the hand of sickness been upon
him. The end, however, had not yet come, and Sir
John Franklin was permitted, before he passed away.
to receive from the lips of Graham (lore the announce-
ment that the north-west passage, for the successful
1 This is evidently an error, and should he 1845 6.
2 See page 270.
220 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FEANKLIN. [1846-
achievement of which he had sailed from England two
years ago, and for which he was now willingly and
cheerfully laying clown his life, had been discovered,
and that he was the man who, by its discovery, had,
according to old Purchas, made himself famous.
He fell asleep peacefully on the nth of June 1847,
with the news of the successful result of the enterprise
ringing in his ears.
" His soul to Him who gave it rose,
God led it to its long repose,
Its glorious rest."
We could not wish a more glorious or a more noble
termination to a life of fame than was his ; to die on the
scene of his discoveries, surrounded and beset by the
ice with which he had so long been battling, and with
the shout of triumph, the cheer of victory, lighting up
those dim eyes with a bright and lustrous radiance
before they closed to be opened no more.
Spenser's lines in the Fairie Queene are very appli-
cable to the death-bed of Sir John Franklin : —
"Is not short payne well borne, that bringes long ease,
And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet graine ?
Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,
Ease after warre, death after life does greatly please."
Sherard Osborn, in his brief but graphic description
of the Franklin expedition, in alluding to the death of
the leader, writes — " Oh, mourn him not ! unless you
can point to a more honourable end or a nobler grave.
Like another Moses, he fell when his work was accom-
plished, with the long object of his life in view. Frank-
lin, the discoverer of the north-west passage, had his
Pisgah, and so long as his countrymen shall hold dear
1848.] THE LAST SAD SCENE. 221
disinterested devotion and gallant perseverance in a
good cause, so long shall they point to the career and
fate of this gallant sailor."
Thus died Sir John Franklin — a man of great force
of character ; one of indomitable energy and courage ; an
ardent geographer; an enthusiastic devotee of science;
a good officer and seaman ; and above all, a sincere and
true Christian — one who placed a steadfast reliance and
implicit faith in an all- wise and beneficent Providence.
We can picture, in our imagination, that last sad and
solemn scene on the ice floe; that hushed assemblage
of wan and famine-stricken men, whose pinched features
and attenuated forms, clad in strange garments, tell of
hardships and privations nobly and resolutely borne.
They stand with hushed lips and bated breath, with
their heads bent in silent sorrow and prayer, round a
grave that has been dug out of the solid ice, into which
the mortal remains of their beloved chief are quietly
and reverently laid. The funeral service for the dead
is read by Captain Crozier (who has succeeded to the
command of the expedition), or, perhaps, by his more
intimate friend Fitzjames, who was now in command
of the Erebus, whilst that flag, the glorious flag of
England, under which he had served so long and so
faithfully in all parts of the world, and against many
foes, fluttered half-mast from the mizen peaks of the
two ships.
It must indeed have been a sad gathering of sorrowful
men that assembled in that wilderness of ice and snow
on that June day, in 1847, to pay their last mark of
respect, love, and devotion to their deceased leader.
They were not only lamenting the loss of a revered
chief who had endeared himself to them by his many
222 LIFE OF S1K JOHN FKANKLIN. [1846-
acts of kindness and forethought, one who had instilled
into the heai'ts of those under him his own enthusiastic
desire for the welfare and success of the expedition, but,
regarding their bereavement from a more selfish point
of view, they could not help feeling that with his
death their own chances of being saved were rendered
all the more remote and precarious. They knew that
if necessity, as seemed very probable, compelled them
to abandon their ships, and seek for aid and relief at
some of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the con-
tinent of America, they had lost one whose experience
of, and intimate acquaintance with, those regions would
have been invaluable, and who alone would, in all pro-
bability, have been able to guide them to where the
assistance and the succour that was so essential to their
sanation could be obtained. They were also well
aware, poor fellows, that famine, rendered ten times
more terrible by disease and the rigorous nature of the
climate, would have to be endured, if a third winter was
to be passed in their present situation ; and as they gazed
around on the sad and sorrowful faces of their comrades,
the painful reflection was unconsciously forced upon them,
as to who would be alive, if not relieved, in another
year ? Who would there be left to tell of the death of
their great and good leader, and of the terrible suffer-
ings and privations they had all endured 1
But time did not permit them to indulge at length in
these or similar reflections, for the navigable season had
arrived, and their utmost exertions must be put forth with
the view of releasing their ships from the icy thraldom
in which they were imprisoned. The freedom of their
vessels must be their first thought, for it really was
their only prospect of salvation. We may be sure that
SURVIVORS IN DIRE EXTREMITIES. 223
everything was dune with this end in view that could
possibly be accomplished, lee saws, we may reasonably
infer, were in constant use ; powder was doubtless em-
ployed in futile endeavours to break the frozen bonds
that held their ships so securely, and every expedient,
we may be certain, was resorted to that science or
human ingenuity could devise ; but all were fruitless —
the ships remained fixed and immovable. But although
their vessels remained stationary, the ice in which they
were held captive was not so, and they soon discovered
that they were drifting slowly with the whole body of
the pack in a southerly direction. This, at any rate,
was promising, and served in a measure to revive their
drooping spirits, for they thought they might perhaps
drift down to the American continent, when their chances
of rescue and succour would be materially enhanced.
But as the autumn advanced they had the mortifica-
tion of finding that their daily drift to the southward was
gradually decreasing, until alas ! it ceased altogether.
They were then only fifteen short miles from Point
Victory, and not more than about sixty from the Ameri-
can coast. God's will be done! for they know that —
"Winter with bis naked arms
And chilling breath is here ;
The rills that all the autumn time
Went singing to the sea,
Are waiting in their icy chains
For spring to set them free."
They are indeed now in dire extremities. It is too
late in the season to think of abandoning the ships in
order to seek for succour by attempting to reach the
American coast, and thence to travel by the Greaf Fish
River to some of the Hudson's Bay establishments in
224 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [184G-
that neighbourhood. They knew, from Franklin's former
teri-ible experiences, that game was not to be obtained
during the winter months on the barren lands of the
continent, so that they were well aware, in the event of
being unable to reach the Hudson's Bay posts, starva-
tion must be the inevitable result. Only one course was
open to them — namely, to pass another long and dreary
winter in their ships, and then abandon them in the
following spring, and this of necessity was the one
decided on and adopted.
It is unnecessary to attempt to picture the miseries of
that third winter. Suffice it to say that cold, want, and
disease did their cruel work, and the sun of 1848 rose
upon an emaciated, weak, and alas ! a diminished party,
for we know that no less than nine officers and twelve
men passed away during those two terrible winters besides
the three who died during the first winter, and were
buried at Beechey Island. Among those who died was
the first lieutenant of the Erebus, " the sweet-tempered "
Graham Gore, who was the first to discover and report
the existence of the north-west passage, and who had
been promoted to the rank of commander in the vacancy
caused by the death of Sir John Franklin. Poor fellow,
he did not live long to enjoy his well-earned step. The
number of officers who perished up to this time seems
to bear a remarkable and unusual proportion to the
number of men who died during the same period, and
can only be accounted for by the supposition that the
former exposed themselves more than the latter, in
their endeavours to alleviate the sufferings of those
committed to their charge.
The survivors now number 105, but we may safely
infer that the greater part of these poor fellows were
1848.] THE SHIPS ABANDONED. 225
sadly reduced by weakness and disease, and some, we
may also be assured, were in a perfectly helpless condi-
tion. Nevertheless, having made the best arrangements
that were, under the circumstances, possible, these brave
men, in response to the decision to abandon the ships,
cheerfully manned the drag-ropes of the sledges that
had been previously prepared and packed, and under
the leadership of Crozier and Fitzjames, bade farewell
to the Erebus and Terror on the morning of April 22nd,
and started on their long journey towards the Great
Fish River, where they hoped, at any rate, to meet with
Indians, who might possibly supply them with food.
Had they but known that Sir James Ross, with a
couple of ships, would, in four short months, be within
three hundred miles of the position of the Erebus and
Terror when they were abandoned, and that relief parties
from his ships would actually approach more than one
hundred miles nearer to them, how different might the
result have been !
The necessity for abandoning the ships so early in
the season seems somewhat unaccountable ; it may have
been due to the fact that they were running short of
provisions on board, or, which is quite possible, to
their anxiety to make an early start. It is estimated
that they were not able to carry away with them on
their sledges provisions for more than about forty days,
so that even had they succeeded in reaching the con-
tinent of America, they would have been without food
for some considerable time, as their provisions would
have been expended before they could possibly hope to
find game in sufficient quantity to supply their party wit h
food, for, as a rule, the animals do not begin to frequent
the barren lands of the continent before the latter end
P
226 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
of the summer. It would therefore, it seems, have been
better for them to have deferred the abandonment of
their ships until the month of May, when they would
have had warmer weather for travelling, provided, of
course, they had on board the vessels the wherewithal
to sustain life for that duration of time ; of this, how-
ever, we have no knowledge, nor will the information
now ever be forthcoming.
In addition to the provisions and stores with which
their sledges were loaded, they also carried a couple of
whale-boats, which were each secured on a separate sledge.
That these sledges must have been heavily weighted, as
seems more than probable, or that the physical capa-
bilities of the men were much reduced, is evident from
the fact that it took them three days to reach Point
Victory, a distance of only fifteen miles. This pain-
ful fact appears to have been realised by them on
reaching the land, for at this point they seem to have
lightened their sledges by abandoning everything that
could possibly be spared, or that might be considered
superfluous, carrying with them nothing but those
articles that were absolutely and essentially necessary
for their sustenance. This was ascertained in after
years 1 by finding this particular spot strewn with an
accumulation of articles of all sorts, such as clothing
in great quantities, stores of various descriptions, blocks,
shovels, pick- axes, red, white, and blue ensigns, and even
the brass ornaments of a marine's shako, the fragment of
a copper lightning-conductor and a brass curtain -rod !
It is a matter of surprise that so many useless articles
should have been carried away from the ships — articles
that could not possibly be required (unless they were
1 In 1859, by Sir Leopold M'Clintock and Lieutenant Hobson.
1848.] LAST RECORD OF THE EXPEDITION. 227
specially taken for the purpose of barter with the
natives), and which could be nothing else than lumber
on their already heavily laden sledges.
On their arrival at Point Victory, Lieutenant Irving
of the Tenor found the record that had been left the
previous year by Graham Gore. Unrolling it, Crozier
and Fitz james wrote the following words round the
margin, which tells us briefly all we shall ever know
of the proceedings of the expedition to that date : 1 —
"April 25, 1848.— H.M. ships Terror and Erebus were
deserted on the 22nd of April, five leagues N.N.W. of this,
having been beset since 12th September 1846. The officers
and crews, consisting of 105 souls, under the command of
Captain F. R. M. Crozier, landed here in latitude 69 37' 42"
N., longitude 98° 41' W. A paper was found by Lieutenant
Irving under the cairn supposed to have been built by Sir
James Ross in 1831, 4 miles to the northward, where it had
been deposited by the late Commander Gore in Juue 1847.
Sir James Ross's pillar has not, however, been found, and the
paper has been transferred to this position, which is that in
which Sir James Ross's pillar was erected. Sir John Franklin
died on the nth June 1847, and the total loss by deaths in
the expedition has been to this date 9 officers and 1 5 men.
Start on to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish River."
The document is signed by F. E. M. Crozier, captain
and senior officer, and James Fitz james, captain II. M.S.
Erebus. Regarding the allusion in this record to the
paper deposited by the sledge party under Graham Gore
the previous year, it should be observed that the month
May was originally written, and then subsequently
scratched out and June substituted. This is evidently
an error — it should have remained May, for Sir John
Franklin died on the nth of June, and we know he was
1 See page 270.
223
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
[1846-
alive when the travelling party left the Erebus on the
24th of May; the paper was written and deposited in
the cairn four days afterwards.
Having relieved their sledges of all superfluous
weights, the retreating party left Point Victory on
\r\ie\ai&e .;?,.;,;., of Sij- J.J-i-anklms
>*! JlentLSJ Line of Retreat
ClaraLct «S* y
' C.VictnriaVs
MAP OF KING WILLIAM ISLAND, SHOWING FRANKLIN'S LINE OF
RETREAT.
the 26th April, and pushed on in a southerly direction,
adhering to the coastdine of King William Island. "We
will not say that with their lightened loads they were
able to make rapid progress, but we may, at any rate,
1848.] PARTY DIVIDED INTO TWO BANDS. 229
assume that their advance was less slow than when they
left their ships ; but what a cheerless and a dismal route
was theirs —
" All waste ! no sign of life
But the track of the wolf and the bear !
No sound but the wild wild wind,
And the snow crunching under their feet."
Poor fellows ! their march was indeed a hopeless one,
and as such they must, one and all, have regarded
it; but, at the same time, they knew it was their last
and only chance for life, and who will not fight bravely
and gallantly when his existence is the stake for which
he is contending ? Day by day did the strength of these
sorely-stricken men diminish, and day by day were their
hardships and privations increased by want and disease.
Can we, or shall we ever be able to realise the sufferings,
both mental and physical, endured by that half-famished
band, as they bravely struggled onward ? It is certainly
impossible to pen a description of them that would in
any way convey an idea of the reality.
Before they had proceeded many miles, it became
only too palpable that in order to afford a chance of
salvation to even a portion of the party, a division must
be made — their rate of progression, hampered as they
were with the sick and helpless, was so slow, that it was
evident all must perish unless some such arrangement
was made. It is therefore conjectured that the party
separated into two bands, the fittest and the strongest
being selected to push on with the object of procuring
assistance, if indeed aid was forthcoming, whilst the re-
mainder, comprising the weak and the sick, should return
to the ships— better, it was thought, to linger in their
230 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
vessels, where, at any rate, shelter from the inclemency
and rigour of the climate could be obtained, than to die
of cold and starvation on the barren snow-covered
shores of King William Island. One boat, it is assumed,
was left with the party that remained ; the other was
taken on to the southward.
All the knowledge we have been able to gain of those
poor fellows who, unable to proceed, had been left behind,
was the discovery of their boat, with her bow pointed
to the northward in the direction of the ships, and
containing two human skeletons. It is not difficult to
guess the terrible fate of this party, for although the
boat contained a large assortment of clothing and stores
of all kinds, there was an entire absence of provisions,
unless a very small quantity of tea and sugar could
be considered as such. At any rate, there was nothing
in her that was capable of supporting life. The boat
was found about fifty miles from Point Victory, and
about sixty-five from the position the ships occupied
when abandoned. It is surmised that the men com-
posing this party, finding their strength unequal to
drag the boat any further, pushed on to the ships, and
that the two poor fellows whose skeletons were found in
the boat, being too weak or ill to accompany them, were
left behind until relief could be sent to their aid. That
succour, alas ! never came.
The southern detachment pushed onwards. They were
but a small party, and probably did not number more
than fifty. After struggling painfully onward, knowing
that on their exertions the safety of their more helpless
companions depended, Cape Herschel was reached, and
here, it is supposed, they must have passed close to the
cairn erected by Simpson in 1839. This cairn was
1848.] DISCOVERY OF A HUMAN SKELETON. 231
in after years examined by Sir Leopold M'Clintoek, but
in spite of all his efforts to discover some record con-
cealed within it, no paper or document of any description
was found. Had any been deposited, it must have been
destroyed or thrown away by the Eskimos, who would, of
course, be ignorant of its value. All that was discovered
was a human skeleton, whose bones were found bleach-
ing about ten miles to the eastward of Cape Herschel.
These human remains told with silent eloquence a sad
and mournful tale, for its position — it was lying face
downwards — fully bore out the words of an old Eskimo
woman who had seen, so it was reported, the party re-
treating to the southward, and who said "they fell
down and died as they walked along." From Cape
Herschel the remnants of this wretched band of poor
wayworn, starved, and scurvy-stricken Englishmen
crossed over to Adelaide Peninsula, where it is sup-
posed they all perished on their way to the Great Fish
River, where they hoped to obtain assistance and relief.
At any rate, with the exception of a few relics found
at Montreal Island, which may have been carried thither
by the Eskimos, no further traces of the party were
ever found to the southward — all is wrapped in darkness
and mystery.
A faint gleam of light is thrown over the last days
of these unfortunate men by information collected from
the Eskimos by Dr. llae in 1854, Sir Leopold M'Clintoek
in 1859, Captain Hall in 1869, and Lieutenant Schwatka
in 1880. From what could be learnt from the members
of these nomadic tribes, a party of about forty white
men were seen during the spring of the year (supposed
to be 1848) travelling southwards dragging sledges and
a boat. They were very thin, and appeared to be in
232 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1846-
want of provisions. None could speak the Eskimo lan-
guage, but by signs they gave the natives to understand
that their ship, or ships, had been destroyed by the ice,
and they were journeying to where they hoped to get
deer or other food.
All this information it must be remembered was
obtained at second hand from the natives, who had
received the intelligence from others. They affirmed
that " several years ago a ship was crushed by the ice
off the north shore of King William Island, but all her
people landed safely, and went away to the Great Fish
River, where they died." A second ship also, we are
told, " had been seen off King William Island, and that
she drifted on shore at the fall of the same year."
When the ship was seen by the natives she was
apparently intact — one boat was on deck, and four
others were hoisted up outside. Subsequently she was
crushed by the ice and destroyed. It was further
reported that in one of the ships was the body of a
man, "a tall man, with long teeth and large bones."
The remains thus found might have been those of some
poor fellow who had perhaps breathed his last as the
ships were being abandoned, or he may have formed one
of that forlorn hope that, as has already been surmised,
separated from the remainder of their shipmates, and
attempted to return when they were midway between
Point Victory and Cape Herschel, only to reach the shelter
of his ship in time to die. In spite of the most diligent
search that was made, no vestige of either ship was
found by M'Clintock or subsequent explorers, so it may
reasonably be inferred that they had been destroyed and
completely swept away by the ice, as stated by the
Eskimos. From the west extreme of King William
1848.] THE WHITE MEN'S GRAVES. 233
Island to Cape Felix, the low barren shore, destitute
of vegetation, 'was strewn with traces of the disastrous
retreat of our helpless countrymen.
In 1869 Captain Hall was informed, by the natives he
met in King ^Yilliam Island, that the graves of two white
men were found in the vicinity of the Pfeiffer River,
and that there was another white man's grave on a long
low point jutting out into the sea, some five or six miles
further to the eastward. The remains of five white men
were also discovered on a small islet, called Todd Islet,
about two or three miles off this point. Hall was
further informed that in a bay to the west of Point
Richardson, which has subsequently been named Starva-
tion Cove, a boat covered with an awning and containing
the remains of thirty or thirty- five men was found. It
was also reported that a tent had been seen in the
vicinity of Terror Bay, " the floor of which was com-
pletely covered with the bodies of white men." In
fact, the line of retreat of these unfortunate men
was clearly defined by the skeletons of those poor
fellows who had dropped down and died as they walked
along.
Thus perished that gallant band of heroes who, so
full of hope and enthusiasm, left England in 1845 under
the leadership of Sir John Franklin, resolved to do all
that lay in their power to deserve, even if they could not
command, success.
How well and nobly, in the face of unparalleled hard-
ships and difficulties, they carried out that resolution,
has been abundantly proved. Glorious as is the story
of this ill-fated expedition, it is a sad and harrowing
one. But it does us good to think of it, for it excites
our admiration and kindles our respect for those brave
234 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1343.
men, " the World's Great Explorers," who have cheer-
fully and willingly borne great sufferings and priva-
tions — aye, and have unhesitatingly laid down their
lives — in the interesting, useful, and great cause of
exploration and geographical science.
CHAPTER XIV.
ANXIETY RESPECTING SAFETY OF FRANKLIN-
EXPEDITIONS DESPATCHED IN SEARCH.
1847-1859.
" In battle fearless, and in danger brave,
Bearing his country's red-cross flag aloft,
Triumphant over foes and elements,
No peril stopped him."
As the year 1847 arrived, and brought with it no in-
telligence of, or from, Sir John Franklin, and those
serving under his command, considerable anxiety was
naturally felt in England regarding their safety, for
the fact that they were only supplied with stores and
provisions to last until the early part of 1848 was well
known. There were not wanting those who already took
a gloomy view of affairs, and predicted disaster ; while
others, in responsible positions, looked upon the matter
in a more practical light, and judging that the time
for energetic action had arrived, brought pressure to
bear on the Government to induce it to consider the
necessity of not only sending relief in the shape of
supplies to various parts of the North American
continent, but also urged the desirability of at once
instituting an organised search on an extended scale
for the absent expedition. So impressed were the
Admiralty with the views thus set forth, and with
235
236 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
tlie necessity of adopting some measures of immediate
relief, that in the summer of 1847 they made arrange-
ments with the Hudson's Bay Company for the despatch
of a large supply of provisions x to their most northern
stations in North America, in readiness for the crews
of Franklin's ships, should they have abandoned their
vessels and be retreating in that direction.
Instructions were also sent to the various Hudson's
Bay Company's posts to warn the Indians to look out for,
and assist the survivors, if fallen in with. Lai'ge rewards
were likewise offered by the Government to the masters
and crews of all ships employed in the whale fishery in
Baffin's Bay, should they perchance " succeed in obtain-
ing any information or record of the progress of the
Erebus and Terror through Lancaster Sound and to
the westward." This was supplemented by a reward
of ^2000 offered by Lady Franklin, to anybody who
should obtain reliable information regarding the fate,
or otherwise, of the missing expedition.
When the year 1847 passed without bringing any
tidings of the absent ships, the Government lost no
time in adopting what they considered to be the best
means for ascertaining the whereabouts, or the fate, of
the missing expedition. In the first place, it was decided
to institute a search by following, very wisely, as much
as possible, in the footsteps of Franklin. With this
object in view, two vessels, the Enterprise of 471 tons,
and the Investigator of 420 tons burthen, were selected
and commissioned, and the charge of them entrusted to
Captain Sir James Clarke Ross. With him was asso-
ciated Captain Edward Bird, who was appointed to the
command of the second ship. These officers were ex-
1 The amount sent was seventy-five days' provisions for 120 men.
1859.] SEARCH EXPEDITIONS. 237
perienced ice navigators, and had taken part with Parry
during his memorable attempt to reach the North Pole
in 1827. The latter served also as first lieutenant of
the Erebus in Ross's Antarctic voyage.
A second expedition, under the command of Franklin's
old friend and travelling companion, Sir John Richard-
son, with Mr. John Rae (an official belonging to the
Hudson's Bay Company), was sent with orders to de-
scend the Mackenzie River, and examine the coast
thence to the Coppermine River, as also the southern
and western shores of Wollaston Land. In order to
render the search as complete as possible, another
expedition, consisting of the Herald, under Captain
Kellett, and the Plover, under Commander Moore, was
sent to Bering's Strait, with instructions to proceed
along the American coast as far as possible to the east-
ward, and to endeavour to communicate with the party
under the command of Sir John Richardson.
Thus it appears that everything was done that could
possibly be accomplished, in order to afford relief and
succour to the absent explorers, or to obtain intelligence
of their fate in the event of any untoward catastrophe
having befallen them.
The first-named expedition, that under the command
of Sir James Clarke Ross, sailed from England on the
12th June 1848. Proceeding without much difficulty
up Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound, it was ultimately
stopped by an ice barrier across Barrow's Strait, and
they were compelled to seek winter quarters in Port
Leopold, on the north-east coast of North Somerset.
During the ensuing spring, travelling parties from the
ships reached Cape Kurd, on the north shore of Barrow's
Strait, while the eastern and the western coasts of Prince
238 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
Regent Inlet as far south as Fury beach were carefully
searched.
Had the survivors from the Erebus and Terror made
for Fury beach instead of attempting to reach the
Great Fish River, the probabilities are they would have
been saved, for they would there have found all the
stores and provisions that had been landed from the
Fury when that vessel was wrecked in 1825. These
would have been more than sufficient to sustain the
party until the following spring (that of 1849), w hen
they would have been found and relieved by the search
parties sent out by Sir James Ross from Port Leopold.
Captain Crozier must have been well aware of the exist-
ence of this large depot of provisions, for he was serving
in the Fury at the time of her loss. It is, however,
assumed that he did not feel justified in conducting
his unfortunate men some seventy or eighty miles out
of their course, when there was the possibility of the
provisions having been discovered and appropriated by
the Eskimos. He was not ignorant of the fact that Sir
John Ross, with his small party, wintered at Fury beach
in 1832-3, and that when he left, there was an ample
supply of provisions remaining. 1
During this spring of 1849, Sir J am es Ross, accom-
panied by Lieutenant M'Clintock, travelled as far as
Cape Coulman in Peel Strait, in latitude 72 38' N.
They were then, although they were ignorant of the
fact, in the direct track of Franklin's ships. Had it
1 Sir L. M'Clintock visited Fury beach in 1859, and found every-
thing intact.
The Editor also of this work paid Fury beach a visit in 1873, when
he found the remaining stores and provisions in a perfect state of
preservation.
1859.] RETURN OF SEARCH EXPEDITIONS. 239
been possible for theni to continue their journey tliey
would, in all probability, have seen the deserted vessels,
but their provisions being nearly expended necessitated
their return from this point to Port Leopold. On the
arrival of the Enterprise and Investigator at Port Leopold
in the autumn of 1S48, those ships were actually within
300 miles of the position of the Erebus and Terror,
four months after those unfortunate vessels had been
abandoned !
Ross returned to England somewhat unexpectedly in
the autumn of 1849, having been beset by the ice off
Leopold Island, in which he had drifted out of Lancaster
Sound into Baffin's Bay. He missed a store ship, the
North Star, that had been despatched in May to meet
him, laden with provisions for his use. She wintered in
Wolstenholme Sound, on the west coast of Greenland.
Sir John Richardson also returned in 1849, having
been unsuccessful in his efforts to discover any traces of
the missing expedition, although he had made a thorough
examination of the Arctic shores of America between
the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers. His attempts
to cross over to Wollaston Land were frustrated by
heavy ice being packed in the channel. This accom-
plished and indefatigable officer subsequently assisted in
the preparation of the pemmican for nearly all the search-
ing expeditions, and personally superintended the supply
of the other provisions and stores required by them.
At this time the Government offered a reward of
^"20,000, to which Lady Franklin offered a further sum of
^3000, to any " exploring party or parties as may, in the
judgment of the Admiralty, have rendered efficient assist-
ance to Sir John Franklin, his ships, or their crews."
On the return of Sir James Ross, the Government,
240 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
with commendable promptitude, resolved upon the im-
mediate examination of those places in the Polar basin
where it was thought most likely that traces of the
missing expedition might be discovered. With this
object in view, the Enterprise and Investigator were at
once re-equipped and re-commissioned, but this time for
the purpose of entering the unknown area from the
westward through Bering's Strait. The command of
this expedition was given to Captain Kichard Collinson,
C.B., an accomplished surveyor and a distinguished
officer, who hoisted his pendant in the Enterprise, while
Commander Robert J. Le Mesurier M'Clure, who had
served as a mate in the Terror with Captain Back in
1836, and was first lieutenant of the Enterprise in
Ross's late expedition, was appointed to the command of
the Investigator. These vessels left England in January
1850, with orders to pass through Bering's Strait during
the following navigable season, and thence proceed with
the utmost expedition to the eastward, and examine
Melville Island, Banks Land, Wollaston and Victoria
Land, or otherwise according to the discretion and judg-
ment of Captain Collinson. The Plover was also ordered
to winter in Kotzebue Sound in order to act as a depot,
whence assistance could be obtained in the unfortunate
event of any serious calamity befalling the two ships.
Four months after the departure of the Enterprise
and Investigator, a goodly squadron, consisting of the
ships Resolute, Assistance, and the steam tenders In-
trepid and Pioneer, 1 sailed under the command of
l This was practically the first occasion on which full-powered
steamers were employed in ice navigation. The result was so favour-
able that steam-whalers were gradually introduced in the Baffin's Bay
whale fishery to the total exclusion of sailing ships.
IIKNIiV (ilUNNKI.l.. ESQ.
[From a Photograph by AUx. Baseano.]
1859.] BRITISH AND AMERICAN EXPEDITIONS. 243
Captain Horatio Austin, C.B., with Captain Eras-
mus Ommaney as his second, with the object of
carrying out an exhaustive search through Lancaster
Sound in the direction of Melville and the Parry
Islands.
In addition to these vessels, a couple of whaling brigs,
under the command of Captains Penny and Stewart, two
successful and experienced whaling skippers, were also
despatched by the Government, with orders to under-
take the examination of Jones Sound and Wellington
Channel ; whilst an American expedition, fitted out at
the expense of that munificent and philanthropic citizen
of New York, Mr. Henry Grinnell, and manned by
officers and seamen of the United States Navy, was
sent out to Lancaster Sound in order to assist in the
search, and to co-operate with their English brethren in
the humane and important work entrusted to them. This
expedition was commanded by Lieutenant De Haven of
the United States navy. Lady Franklin also, at her
own expense, equipped the Prince Albert, a schooner of
ninety tons, which sailed under the command of Com-
mander Forsyth, R.N., with instructions to explore the
shores of Prince Piegent Inlet. And finally that gallant
and intrepid old veteran Sir John Ross, who was then
in his seventy-fourth year, and had reached the rank
of admiral, went up in a small schooner called the
Felix, accompanied by a little yacht of twelve tons
named the Mary. This latter expedition was equipped
and fitted out partly at the cost of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and partly by private subscription. Jt
passed the winter of 1 850-1 off the coast of Cornwallis
Island.
Thus, in the autumn of 1850, there were no less than
244 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1817-
fifteen vessels, directly and indirectly, engaged in the
search for Sir John Franklin and his missing ships.
To these various expeditions must be added a boat
journey made by Lieutenant Pullen, who was sent by
Captain Kellett from Point Barrow to the eastward
along the north coast of America to the Mackenzie
River, which he ascended as far as the Great Slave
Lake ; while Dr. Rae was also employed in exploring
the neighbourhood of the Coppermine River and the
shores of Wollaston and Victoria Land. It will thus
be seen that the entire continental coast-line between
Bering's Strait to a position in latitude 70 on the
east coast of Victoria Land, was to be thoroughly
examined.
Everything was conducted on a most liberal and
generous scale, and in such a way as to satisfy the
country that no stone would be left unturned in order
to find some trace, if any existed, of the missing ships
and their gallant crews. Tbe Polar area explored by
these several expeditions was very extensive, and great
and important geographical work was necessarily
effected ; but they failed in the accomplishment of the
main object for which they were despatched, namely,
the relief of Franklin and his companions, and their fate,
unhappily, continued to be wrapped in dark and pro-
found mystery.
The ships under the command of Captain Austin
wintered at Griffith Island in Barrow's Strait ; but
before seeking winter quarters, great joy and no little
excitement was caused by the discovery that the miss-
ing expedition under Sir John Franklin had passed
their first winter (1845-6) at Beechey Island. The first
traces of the lost ones were discovered by Captain
1859.]
SEARCH BY SLEDGING PARTIES.
245
Ommaney of the Assistance at Point Rile}', 1 end the
graves of three of those who had died during that winter
(vide page 213) were subsequently found by Captain
GRAVES ON BEECHEY ISLAND.
Penny. The neighbourhood was, as may well be ima-
gined, thoroughly searched in the hope of finding a
1 At Franklin's winter quarters were found several heaps consisting
of preserved meat tins filled with gravel, raised to a height of two
feet, and varying in breadth from three to four yards.
Dr. Sutherland computed the number of these tins to be about 700,
while many more were also found scattered about during the search
246 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
record, or document, that would afford some clue as to
the direction it was intended that the Erebus and Terror
should take after breaking out of winter quarters, but
although diligent search was made nothing could be
found. From this point all traces of the missing ex-
pedition ceased, and the veil of darkness and obscurity
was again lowered, only to be lifted by Rae and M'Clin-
tock at a later date.
In the spring of 185 1, under a careful and elaborate
system of sledging, organised by Captain Austin on the
lines originally laid down by Parry and James Ross,
travelling parties were despatched to search in various
directions. The only method by which the search could be
efficiently arranged was, of course, to follow the general
tenor of Sir John Franklin's instructions, in which both
Wellington Channel and a route to the southward and
westward of Cape Walker are mentioned ; but it was also
necessary for Captain Austin to provide for exhaustive
searches in other directions. With this object in view
Captain Penny undertook the examination of Wellington
Channel, while Austin despatched three extended sledge
expeditions to the westward — two were sent round Cape
Walker to the south-west, and one went due south into
for records. These tins were labelled "Goldner's patent," and had
been supplied, under directions from the Admiralty, to the expedition
as "preserved meat." From the fact that an enormous quantity of
these tins supplied to the navy, were subsequently found to contain
putrid meat, and from the fact that so large a quantity of meat as these
empty tins were calculated to hold, could not have been used by the
members of the expedition during their first winter, it is supposed
that the defective condition of the contents of the tins was discovered,
and a survey of them ordered. If this surmise be a correct one, the
loss of so large a proportion of what would be considered fresh,
in contradistinction to salt, provisions would be most serious, and
would so cripple their resources, as to lead in all probability to the
disastrous fate of the expedition.
1859.] STEANGE ABSENCE OF CAIRNS. 247
the channel now called Peel Sound. One of these, under
Lieutenant M 'Clint ock, explored to the westward as far
as Melville Island, while two parties, under Captain
Ommaney and Lieutenant Sherard Osborn respectively,
searched from Cape Walker to the south-west along the
north and west coasts of Prince of Wales' Land. Lieu-
tenant Mecham, travelling in the same direction, dis-
covered Russell Island, and Lieutenant Browne explored
the western shore of Peel Strait as far south as latitude
7 2° 49'. The latter searching party, like that of Sir
James Ross in 1 849, only on the other side of the same
channel, was actually directing its energies along the
same track taken by the Erebus and Terror ; they were,
however, at the time ignorant that they were following
in the footsteps of Franklin, for, unfortunately, no cairn,
no record, not even a trace had been left by the missing
ones, that could afford a clue to those who were in quest
of them as to the direction they had taken. Lieutenant
Browne's travelling party actually reached within 150
miles of the position where the Erebus and Terror
were abandoned. The different searching parties, de-
spatched by Captain Austin, examined no less than
1500 miles of coast-line, 850 of which were hitherto
unknown.
Thus everything that human forethought and human
exertions could possibly devise or accomplish, appears
to have been done to facilitate the discovery of some
traces of the missing expedition ; but it was unhappily
without avail — the various searching parties returned
one after the other, only to report that their efforts
had not been crowned with success, and the fate of
Franklin remained as mysterious and as impenetrable
a secret as ever.
248 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
The total absence of cairns along the route pursued
by Franklin is most unaccountable, for this well-known
form of Arctic beacon is easily constructed from material
always at hand ; they form conspicuous landmarks, and
their importance as such was well known to Franklin
and his officers. If they had been erected, the direc-
tion for the search would have been indicated, and an
enormous amount of labour would have been saved,
while a successful issue of the search would possibly have
been the result. The only reason that can be advanced
for this apparent neglect, of what has always been con-
sidered as one of the most important duties of an Arctic
explorer, is the supposition that the channels were
comparatively clear of ice when the Erebus and Terror
passed through, and that it was in consequence deemed
inexpedient to delay the progress of the vessels by stop-
ping to build caims — a serious omission, however, for
their absence necessitated the expenditure of much in-
valuable time, besides a great waste of money in the
prosecution of a long and fruitless search.
With the exception of the Enterprise and Investi-
gator, the ships that sailed from England in 1850 in
search of Franklin, returned the following year ; — indeed
the Prince Albert did not even remain out a winter,
but came home in the autumn of 1850, bringing the
earliest intelligence to England of the fact that Franklin
had passed his first winter at Beechey Island.
We will now turn to the proceedings of the Enterprise
and Investigator. Sailing from England on the 20th
January 1850, these vessels passed through the Straits
of Magellan, and touching at the Sandwich Islands, pro-
ceeded at once to Bering's Strait ; shortly, however, after
entering the Pacific the two ships accidentally sepa-
Captain Sir Robert McClure.
(From a painting by Stephen Pearce in the possession of Col. John Barrow.)
1859.] NORTH-WEST PASSAGE DISCOVERED. 249
rated, and they never joined company again during the
remainder of the cruise. Both these vessels made
remarkable, and, so far as Polar navigation is concerned,
wonderfully successful voyages. The Investigator, under
Captain M'Clure, sailed along the north coast of the
American continent, and may be accredited with the
discovery of the existence of two north-west passages,
viz., one through Prince of Wales' Strait (where the
ship wintered in 1850) into Melville Sound, and the other
from the westward, round the north coast of Bank's
Land to Melville Sound. The last-named passage was
actually accomplished by Captain M'Clure and his
officers and crew ; for after having passed two con-
secutive winters in the Bay of God's Mercy on the
north coast of Bank's Land, where their ship was irre-
vocably frozen up, their position was luckily discovered
by a sledge party from the Resolute, to which ship
they retreated when they abandoned the Invest 'igator. 1
They were subsequently, but not until after a fourth
winter had been spent in the Arctic regions, trans-
ferred to the Plicenix, in which ship they were brought
to England. They thus had the supreme satisfac-
tion and honour of being the first, and only, people
who had crossed from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic
to the northward of America. In acknowledgment of
this service the sum of ^10,000 was awarded by the
English Government to Captain M'Clure and the crew
of the Investigator.
1 Had the sledging parties from the Resolute not found the Investi-
gator when they did, it was the intention of Captain M'Clure to
abandon Ins afoip and attempt a retreat on the Mackenzie or Copper-
mine Rivers. The result would inevitably have been as fatal to
his crew as was Franklin's unsuccessful attempt to reach Back's
River.
250 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
In the words of the Select Committee of the House
of Commons, appointed to consider the amount of the
reward that should be given to the officers and crew
of the Investigator for the discovery of a north-west
passage —
"They performed deeds of heroism which, though not
accompanied by the excitement and glory of the battle-field,
yet rival, in bravery and devotion to duty, the highest and
most successful achievements of war ! "
The intelligence of M'Clure's success was first brought
to England by Lieutenant Cresswell, one of the officers
of the Investigator. At a public reception given to
this officer on his arrival at his native place, Lynn in
Norfolk, Lord Stanley, in referring to the discovery of
the north-west passage, thus addressed him —
" It was a triumph that would not be valued the less highly
because it was not stained by bloodshed — a triumph that was
not embittered by any single painful or melancholy reminis-
cence — a triumph not over man, but over nature — a triumph
which inflicts no injury, and which humiliates no enemy — a
triumph not for this age alone, but for posterity — not for
England only, but for mankind."
The voyage of the Enterprise, under Captain Collinson,
was no less remarkable. Like the Investigator, she also
sailed along the north coast of America, and wintered
in 1 85 1 at the south extreme of Prince of Wales' Strait.
Thence she worked her way to the eastward, spending
her next winter in Cambridge Bay, at the east extreme of
Dease Strait, and not more than 150 miles from the posi-
tion reached by the Erebus and Terror when those ships
were abandoned. In the spring of 1853, travelling parties
from the Enterprise actually passed within a very few
1859.] LADY FRANKLINS EFFORTS. 251
miles — not more than twenty — from the spot where the
unfortunate vessels had been left, but unhappily without
discovering any remains of them, or traces of their crews.
It is most unfortunate that the western shore of King
William Island, which was only about forty-five miles
distant, should have been neglected ; for had it been
visited, the traces that were afterwards discovered by
Rae and M'Clintock would assuredly have been found
by Collinson, although we cannot think that any sur-
vivors of the expedition could at that time have
been alive. The Enterprise returned to England on
the 6th May 1855, after one of the most adventurous
and remarkable voyages that has ever been made in
the Arctic Seas.
On the return of the ships from Lancaster Sound in
1 85 1, much disappointment was not unnaturally felt at
the unsuccessful result of the search, more especially
when the hopes and expectations of the public had been
somewhat raised by the news taken home in 1850, by
the Prince Albert, relative to the traces found at Beechey
Island. Immediately on the return of that vessel she
was re-equipped for Arctic service by Lady Franklin,
and despatched in the summer of the following year,
under the command of Mr. Kennedy, for the purpose
of exploring Prince Regent Inlet. 1
During this voyage Bellot Strait, a channel separating
North Somerset from Boothia Felix, was discovered.
Thence Mr. Kennedy prosecuted the search to the west
1 The veteran John Hepburn, Franklin's faithful follower and com-
panion in his adventurous land journey in 1819, served in the Prince
Albert on this expedition ; also Lieutenant Bellot, a gallant officer of
the French navy, who had volunteered for the service, and who was
afterwards unfortunately drowned, while leading a sledge parly in
Wellington Channel.
252 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
and north, as far as the north-east point of Prince of
Wales' Land, which is only about thirty miles from Cape
Walker. He regained his ship by making the complete
circuit of North Somerset.
Here again the searching parties seem to have been
actuated by the same unfortunate fatality as in former
expeditions. Had Mr. Kennedy directed his steps to
the south-icest in accordance with his instructions, instead
of exploring to the north-ivest, traces of those he was in
search of would assuredly have been discovered. It seems
almost incredible that so many of our searching parties
should have examined, and thoroughly explored, the
region in the immediate neighbourhood of the disastrous
retreat of our fellow-countrymen, and yet just missed
finding traces of them, or any evidence to show that
they had visited the locality.
Lady Franklin, not satisfied with what had been
accomplished, or rather with the want of success that
had attended the various efforts to obtain tidings of
her husband and his brave companions, fitted out the
little screw steamer Isabel, and despatched her under
the command of Commander Inglefield in the autumn
of 1S52. He returned after an absence of three months,
having sailed to the head of Baffin's Bay, and having
looked into Smith's Sound, but without adding or
obtaining any information of importance, relative to the
missing expedition.
In the early part of 1852 elaborate preparations were
again made by the Government for a renewal of the
search. The ships that had recently returned under
Captain Austin, the Assistance, Resolute, Intrepid, and
Pioneer, were brought forward, refitted and again made
efficient for Arctic service. These vessels were placed
1859.] MISDIRECTION IN THE SEARCH. 253
under the command of Captain Sir Edward Belcher,
who flew his pendant in the Assistance. The other
three vessels were commanded respectively by Kellett,
M'Clintock, and Sherard Osborn. The North Star, under
Captain Pullen, was also attached to this squadron as a
depot or relief ship. They sailed from Woolwich in
April 1852.
Sir Edward's instructions were, briefly, to despatch one
of his vessels, accompanied by a steamer, up Wellington
Channel, while the other ship and remaining steamer
were to push westward in the direction of Melville Island.
These orders were ostensibly based on the knowledge that
Sir John Franklin had passed his first winter at the
entrance to Wellington Channel, and it was therefore
hoped that by searching that strait, traces of the miss-
ing expedition might be found. The object of sending a
portion of the squadron to the westward, was with the
view of meeting any of the travelling parties from the
Investigator and Enterprise, which might possibly, it
was supposed, have reached positions in the vicinity of
Melville Island.
The directions given to Sir John Franklin for his
guidance in the route he was to pursue were again
ignored, and the searching vessels were particularly
ordered to devote their attentions to the north and to
the west, and not to the south-icest, the course that
Franklin had been expressly enjoined to take ! As a
matter of fact, Sir John had been specially warned to
avoid attempting the passage to the westward by Melville
Island, in consequence of the difficulties from ice expe-
rienced and reported by Sir Edward Parry, yet it was
to Melville Island and its vicinity, that the attention
of Sir Edward Belcher was especially directed. It must
254 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FKANKLIN. [1847-
not however be forgotten that these orders were, in all
probability, issued in view of the apprehensions then
being felt regarding the safety of M'Olure and Collin-
son, and the expedition was intended to succour and
relieve them equally with the prosecution of the search
for Franklin.
The western expedition, under Captain Kellett, was
ordered to establish depots of provisions on Melville
Island, and they were likewise directed to send "travel-
ling parties in a westerly direction for the purpose of
searching for traces of Sir John Franklin," and pre-
sumably also with the object of obtaining intelligence
of Collinson and M'Clure. Both parties, it will be
observed, were ordered to search localities to the north
of Barrow's Strait, for an expedition that had been
specially directed to proceed to the south-west of that
channel ! These apparently extraordinary orders were
issued in accordance, it is stated, with the views of
experienced Arctic officers, and the existing popular
feeling at the time.
It will be unnecessary to enter into any detailed
account of these expeditions. Suffice it to say, that
Sir Edward, with the Assistance and Pioneer, wintered
in Northumberland Sound, having successfully taken
his ships up Wellington Channel to latitude 76° 52'.
Kellett, with the Resolute and Intrepid, wintered at
Dealy Island, on the south side of Melville Island, while
Captain Pullen, in the North Star, passed the winter
at Beechey Island. From these several stations both
sledge and boat expeditions were despatched to search
in every direction, and much good and useful geogra-
phical work was achieved. Commander M'Clintock,
with his usual energy, explored Melville and Prince Pat-
1S59.] THE SHIPS ABANDONED. 255
rick Islands to their northern extremities, while other
officers examined, and accurately delineated, the coasts
of Bathurst, Melville, and Cornwallis Islands. It was
during one of these expeditions, in the autumn of 1852,
that a record was found at Winter Harbour, in Melville
Island, containing the important information that the
Investigator was frozen up in the Bay of Mercy; she
was discovered the following summer, and the officers
and crew rescued and taken on board the Resolute, as
has already been related. In the summer of 1853 Sir
Edward Belcher ordered all the ships to rendezvous
at Beechey Island ; but before reaching that place
his ship and the Pioneer were beset in the ice in
Wellington Channel, where he was compelled to pass
the second winter. A similar fate befell Captain Kel-
lett, who also, with his two ships, was caught by the ice,
and compelled to winter in the pack in Melville Sound.
In the following year, for some unaccountable reason
best known to Sir Edward Belcher, the commander of
the expedition issued directions for the abandonment of
all four ships, and the officers and crews were -conveyed
to England in the North Star, Talbot and Phoenix. The
last named steamer had been despatched from Eng-
land under the command of Captain Inglefield in the
summer of 1854, accompanied by a transport with
stores and provisions for Sir Edward's ships.
The subsequent wonderful drift of the Resolute out
of Barrow's Strait, Lancaster Sound, through Baffin's
Bay, and into Davis Strait, where she was picked up
by an American whaler, and afterwards presented by
the United States Government to our Admiralty, fur-
nishes a remarkable proof of the force and direction
of the current in that region.
256 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
The wholesale abandonment of a fine squadron, without
apparently any reason, was a great blow not only to
the search for Franklin, but also to Arctic exploration
generally. The Government, on the return of Sir
Edward Belcher, regarded the fate of Franklin as con-
clusive ; they decided that no further steps should be
taken in the matter, and they allowed private enter-
prise to step in and solve the problem of that fate,
the solution of which should undoubtedly have been
the work of the nation. The apathy displayed by
England at this time, in its bounden duty to use every
effort to obtain reliable intelligence regarding its missing
sons, was in striking contrast to the feeling that ani-
mated the hearts of our American kinsmen, who had
already done so much to assist vis in our search for the
lost expedition.
In May 1 853 the schooner Advance, fitted out by private
subscription (the main burden of the expense being borne
by Messrs. Henry Grinnell and George Peabody), and
under the auspices of the United States Government,
sailed from New York under the command of Dr. Elisha
Kane, an accomplished and enterprising officer, who had
served as surgeon under De Haven in the same vessel,
the Advance, in 1850. Under the impression that Frank-
lin had proceeded in a northerly direction, for reasons
that it is needless to discuss here, except that the sup-
posed existence of an open Polar sea was the principal
reason for determining the direction of the search, Dr.
Kane sailed up Baffin's Bay into Smith's Sound.
This expedition, so far as the search for Franklin is
concerned, was, as might be anticipated from the direc-
tion in which it was ordered to proceed, a failure ; but
it led to important geographical discoveries, the prin-
RAE'S DISCOVERIES. -257
cipal being the exploration of the southern part of Smith's
Sound. The little Advance, after many narrow escapes
from being destroyed by the ice, was eventually secured
in winter quarters in Rensselaer Bay, in latitude 78° 38' ;
this was, at the time, the highest northern latitude in
which any ship bad passed a winter.
Here two winters were spent when, as they were
unable to extricate her from the ice, she was abandoned.
After many perils and privations, Dr. Kane and his
half-starving party succeeded in reaching, by boats, the
Danish settlements on the west coast of Greenland,
whence they eventually took passage to New York,
arriving in that city on the nth October 1S55.
Meanwhile Dr. Rae was sent in 1853 by the Hudson's
Bay Company to connect his discoveries round Com-
mittee Bay, with those of Sir James Ross on the western
coast of Boothia Felix, in the neighbourhood of the
Magnetic Pole. In the spring of 1854, having passed
the winter in Repulse Bay, he started in prosecution of
his orders. On the 20th of April he met some Eskimos
in Pelly Bay, from whom he received much of the
information detailed at page 231, el seq. From these
people he also obtained various small articles, such as
silver spoons, forks, &c., which had undoubtedly belonged
to the officers and men of the ill-fated ships Erebus and
Terror ; the finding of these articles seemed to place the
fate of our unfortunate countrymen beyond all doubt.
Having collected as much information as could be
elicited from these nomadic tribes, and also having pro-
cured as many relics as could be obtained, Rae pro-
ceeded to carry out the main object of his expedition,
in the prosecution of which he succeeded in establishing
the insularity of what bad hitherto been called the King
it
258 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847
William Land of Ross. He then returned to England
in order to report the important information he had
obtained to the authorities.
The account brought home by Rae was considered by
the Admiralty, already lukewarm regarding the desir-
ability of further search, conclusive evidence as to the
inutility of any further expenditure of money, in follow-
ing up the traces thus revealed of the missing expedi-
tion. The discovery of the relics was considered by
them, as final evidence of the fate of the entire party,
and by paying Rae the reward offered to any person who
should produce positive intelligence of the actual fate of
Franklin and his followers, the Admiralty thought they
would, finally and for ever, settle the matter of further
search, and thus be relieved of further responsibility in
the matter. It was therefore decided to pay Dr. Rae
the sum of ^10,000 as a reward for his discovery.
But although the Government appeared, or pretended,
to be satisfied, popular feeling was still clamorous for
a continuation of the quest, until, at any rate, more
conclusive and satisfactory evidence regarding the actual
existence, or otherwise, of some of our countrymen could
be ascertained. With this object in view, and in order
to allay public feeling on the matter, the Hudson's Bay
Company, acting under orders from the Government,
despatched Mr. James Anderson, a chief factor in their
employ, down the Great Fish River, for the purpose of
communicating with the Eskimos and thus obtaining
reliable information relative to the report brought
home by Rae. This expedition was undertaken in the
summer of 1855. Anderson reached Point Ogle, at the
mouth of the river, and examined the coast and island
in its vicinity, and though undoubted traces of the
1859.] LADY FRANKLIN'S FURTHEB EFFORTS. 259
mining expedition were apparent, he failed to dis-
cover the remains of any of our unfortunate country-
men, nor did he succeed in finding the slightest scrap
of paper, document, journal, or record that could throw
any further light on the fate of those poor fellows, who
had travelled thus far after abandoning their ships, in
the hope — a vain one as it proved — of obtaining succour
and relief.
Lady Franklin, it may very justly be surmised, was
far from satisfied at the stand taken by the Govern-
ment at this juncture, and at the apparent apathy with
which the Admiralty received all suggestions relative to
further endeavours to unravel the mysterious entangle-
ment which surrounded the fate of the lost explorers.
She had already fitted out four ships, almost entirely
at her own expense, which had been despatched with
the object of discovering traces of the missing expedi-
tion ; in spite of llae's discoveries she still felt that the
work was unaccomplished, and that further efforts should
be made to dispel the mystery in which the fate of her
beloved husband and his brave men was still wrapped.
Her views were warmly supported by the leading men
of science of the day, besides all those naval officers who
had been engaged on Arctic service, and whose opinions
were therefore of unquestionable value. On the 5th of
June 1856, a memorial, signed by numerous scientific-
men and Arctic officers, was presented to Lord Palmer-
ston, urging the necessity of further research —
" To satisfy tin- honour of our country and clear up a mystery
which has excited the sympathy of the civilised world."
Detailed plans as to the locality to be searched and
the prospects of success, were all clearly and succinctly
•200 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
expressed and submitted; but all to no purpose — the
Government had fully made up its mind that no further
search, at the public expense, should be undertaken, and
they resolved to abide by their decision. This memorial
was followed by a letter from Lady Franklin, 1 the noble-
minded widow of the gallant commander of the lost
expedition, dated December 2, 1856, and addressed, as
the memorial, to Viscount Palnierston. In it she
urged the necessity of continued search, pointing out
that as the locality was now practically known, the
area of exploration would necessarily be considerably
limited, and she hoped, and expected, that a renewal
of the search would, at any rate, result in obtaining
satisfactory evidence of the actual fate of the lost expe-
dition.
These touching appeals, affecting a country's honour
as well as arousing its sympathy, were, however, of no
avail ; the Government turned a deaf ear to all entreaties
for further research, and intimated that as the reward
for ascertaining the fate of the missing expedition had
already been paid to Dr. Eae, they were not prepared
to reopen the question, by the further expenditure of a
large outlay of money, and the probable sacrifice of
many valuable lives, in vain and, what they supposed
to be, quixotic endeavours to obtain more definite infor-
mation regarding the fate of Sir John Franklin and his
lost companions.
Under these discouraging circumstances, Lady Frank-
lin resolved to endeavour to accomplish by private en-
terprise, that which the Government had declined to
1 Lady Franklin had also written several letters to the Admiralty
Urging the necessity of continued search, and protesting against the
reward of ^10,000 being paid to Dr. Rae.
1859.] M'CLINTOCK'S SEAECH EXPEDITION. 261
undertake the responsibility of attempting to carry out,
although backed by the resources of a wealthy country.
Aided by private subscriptions, but principally at
her own expense, she purchased and fitted out the
little steam yacht Fox, of 177 tons burthen. The com-
mand of the vessel was given to that able and most
energetic of Arctic navigators, Captain M'Clintock,
than whom no better man could have been selected
for the appointment. With him were associated Lieu-
tenant Hobson, l!.X., "already distinguished in Arctic
service," and Captain Allen Young, an experienced cap-
tain in the mercantile marine, who not only offered his
services gratuitously, but also contributed large!) 7 from
his private fortune towards the expenses of the expedi-
tion. Dr. David Walker was the surgeon and naturalist.
Provisions and stores for twenty-eight months were put
on board, and the little vessel sailed from Aberdeen on
the 1st of July 1857. The only instructions received by
M'Clintock were to act according to his own judgment
in endeavouring to rescue " any possible survivor of the
F.r bus and Terror" and to leave no stone unturned in
his exertions to recover some of the documents or records
of the lost expedition, and, as Lady Franklin enjoined,
"the personal relics of my dear husband and his com-
panions."
Everything went well with the little craft and her
gallant crew until Melville Bay, a locality that has
proved so fatal to many a well-found whaler, was
reached, when, in attempting to cross to the north
water, ME'Clintock was stopped by the ice in the middle
of August, and eventually the Fox was frozen firmly
in I he pack. For 242 days was she beset, drifting
all thai long cold winter helplessly to the southward.
262 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
until released on the 25th April 1858, after having
been carried in her icy fetters, from latitude 75 30'
to 63 30' 1ST., a distance of 11 94 geographical miles!
It is impossible to imagine the suspense and anxiety
passed by all on board during that fearful winter. As
M'Clintock significantly writes, after one more than
usually exciting day of danger —
"After yesterday's experience I can understand bow a
man's hair has turned grey in a few hours."
Immediately his ship was released, this energetic officer
pushed northwards a second time, regretting the delay
entailed by the besetment, but in no way daunted by
the clangers he had encountered, and the hardships and
anxieties he and his men had experienced.
More fortunate this time, the little Fox succeeded in
passing through Melville Bay, and, without much diffi-
culty, proceeded up Lancaster Sound to Beechey Island.
Here they erected the marble tablet sent out by Lady
Franklin to be set up to the memory of the lost
crews of the Erebus and Terror, in the immediate
neighbourhood of the place where they had passed
their first winter. This tablet was left at God-
haven by the American expedition, that was sent
in search of Dr. Kane in 1855, where it was found
and brought on by M'Clintock. It bears the following
inscription : —
1859.]
MOXl'ilENT ON T5EECIIEY ISLAND.
•263
TO THE MEMORY OF
FRANKLIN,
CROZIER, FITZJAMES,
AND ALL THEIR
GALLANT BROTHER OFFICERS AND FAITHFUL
COMPANIONS WHO HAVE SUFFERED AND PERISHED
IN THE CAUSE OF SCIENCE AND
THE SERVICE OF THEIR COUNTRY.
THIS TABLET
IS ERECTED NEAR THE SPOT WHERE
THEY PASSED THEIR FIRST ARCTIC
WINTER, AND WHENCE THEY ISSUED
FORTH TO CONQUER DIFFICULTIES OR
TO DIE.
TO COMMEMORATE THE GRIEF OF THEIR
ADMIRING COUNTRYMEN AND FRIENDS,
AND THE ANGUISH, SUBDUED BY FAITH,
OF HER WHO HAS LOST, IN THE HEROIC
LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION, THE MOST
DEVOTED AND AFFECTIONATE OF
HUSBANDS.
" And so He bi'ingeth them unto the
Haven when they wouldie"
18
b5-
This stone has been entrusted to be affixed in its place by the
officers and crew of the American expedition, commanded by
Lieutenant H. J. Hartstein, in search of Dr. Kane and his
companions.
This tablet having been left at Disco by the
American expedition, which was unable
to reach Beechey Island, in 1855, was put
on board the Discovery yacht Fox, and is
now set up hero V>y Captain M'Clintock,
K.N., commanding the final expedition of
search for ascertaining the fate of Sir John
Franklin and his companions, 1858.
264 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
On the morning of the 16th of August the little Fox
steamed away from Beechey Island, a locality fraught
with many interesting associations, and pushed gallantly
on with the object of passing through Peel Strait ; but,
in consequence of the great accumulation of unbroken
ice in the channel, this intention was abandoned, and
a course was steered up Prince Regent Inlet towards
Bellot Strait. The adoption of this route appeared to
M'Olintock to offer the best prospect of getting to the
place which he was desirous of reaching, namely, the
mouth of the Great Fish River and the western shore
of King William Island, for this was the locality
indicated by the Eskimos at Pelly Bay, from whom
the relics and information had been obtained by Dr.
Rae five years previously, where, it was hoped, further
intelligence would be forthcoming.
On the 19th of August they were at Port Leopold,
and on the following day were off Fury beach, with
very little ice in sight ; shortly afterwards, however,
they encountered much loose ice coming out of Brentford
Bay. Here they had a narrow escape from destruction,
being beset by heavy pack ice, which carried the little
Fox, at the rate of nearly six miles an hour, within 200
yards of the rocks. Fortunately this particular danger
was averted, and they succeeded in extricating their
vessel from the pack, leaving the huge masses of ice
to be dashed violently against each other, and carried
wildly hither and thither, by the various whirlpools
caused by the rapidity of the tides and currents in
Bellot Strait. Eventually, after numerous unsuccessful
attempts to proceed, during which she passed three times
through the strait, only to be stopped by heavy ice held
fast by rocks and islets situated two miles beyond its
1859.] PLANS FOR SPRING JOURNEYS. 265
western outlet, the Fox was secured in winter quarters
in Port Kennedy, at the eastern end of the strait, on
the 2Sth September 1858.
Sledging expeditions were at once undertaken for
the purpose of exploring the country in the neighbour-
hood of their winter quarters, and also with the object
of laying out depots of provisions as far as possible on
the routes to be followed during the spring, when the
extended travelling parties would be despatched to fulfil
the main object of the expedition, viz., to ascertain the
fate of Franklin and those under his command.
The winter was passed in making the necessary pre-
parations for the arduous work of the spring and
summer. The plan for the preliminary spring journeys
was as follows: — Captain M'Clintock, accompanied by
two men, with a couple of dog-sledges dragged by fifteen
dogs, and provisioned for an absence of twenty-four
days, was to travel towards the Magnetic Pole with
the object of communicating with the Eskimos, who,
it was expected, would be found in that locality, while
Allen Young, witli a dog-sledge and four men, was to ad-
vance depots of provisions in readiness for his main jour-
ney along the coast of Prince of Wales' Land. Hobson
was left in charge of the Fox, with orders to send out
in search of these two parties, should they remain absent
beyond the period for which they were provisioned.
On the 17th February, the temperature at the time
being about 40° below zero, M'Clintock and Young left
the little Fox to carry out their allotted and self-imposed
tasks. In spite of the intense cold, and the lameness of
some of the dogs, and the repeated fits with which these
animals were frequently attacked, they were able to
accomplish an average daily distance of about 6fl
266 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
or eighteen miles. For several days the weather was
so severe that the mercury for their artificial horizons
remained in a frozen state, and the rum had to be
thawed before it could be used. On the ist of March
M'Clintock reached the position of the Magnetic Pole,
where he was fortunate enough to meet the Eskimos
he was in search of. One of these men was found to be
in possession of a naval uniform button. When ques-
tioned regarding it, he said it had come to him from
some white men, who had died from starvation on an
island at the mouth of a river, and that they had ob-
tained the iron, from which the knives in their posses-
sion were made, from the same source. Being joined
by the remainder of the tribe, M'Clintock was able to
obtain by barter more relics of the lost expedition, con-
sisting principally of silver spoons and forks belonging
to officers of the Erebus and Terror, a silver medal the
property of Mr. A. M 'Donald, assistant surgeon of the
Terror, and other articles, thus setting at rest all doubts
that might have been entertained regarding the fate of
Franklin's unfortunate ships and their unhappy crews.
The Eskimos on being closely interrogated denied
having personally seen any of the white men, although
one man acknowledged to having seen their bones on
the island where they died. Another said that a ship
with three masts had been crushed by the ice to the
west of King William Island, but that all the people
had landed in safety ; the vessel, however, sunk, so that
nothing of value was obtained from her. The informa-
tion thus obtained corroborated the statements made by
the Eskimos to Dr. Rae ; it also accounted for the dis-
appearance of one of the ships, but gave no information
regarding the ultimate fate of the other.
Captain Sir Leopold McClintock.
(From a /tainting by Stephen Pearce in the possession of Col. John Barrow.)
1859.] START OF THE SLEDGING PARTIES. 2t>7
Having obtained all the information, and collected
all the relics that conld be gathered from these people,
M'Clintock returned to the Fox, in order to prepare for
the more extended and important journeys that were
in contemplation. During this journey, of twenty-five
days' duration, he travelled a distance of 360 miles, and
added to our charts no less than 120 miles of coastdine
previously unknown. The mean temperature during
the time the sledging parties were away, was 62° below
freezing-point (Fahr.). Young had also successfully
accomplished the work allotted to him, having advanced
depots of provisions, some seventy miles from the ship,
on the coast of Prince of Wales' Land.
On the 2nd of April, the two principal sledging parties,
under the command respectively of Captain M'C'lintock
and Lieutenant Hobson, left the Fox, provisioned for an
absence of about eighty-four days. Each party consisted
of a sledge dragged by four men, besides a dog-sledge
and dog driver. Allen Young left the ship five days
later in search of the ship supposed to have been wrecked
on the coast of Prince of Wales' Land.
The two parties, those of M'Clintock and Hobson,
travelled together until they reached Cape Victoria on
the 28th, when they separated, 1 the latter to explore
the western shore of King William Island from Capo
Felix to the southward, and to make a, diligent search
for the ships and records; while M'Clintock proceeded
to examine the east coast in a southerly direction,
1 This arrangement was due to 1 ho generous resolve of M'Clintock,
who, knowing from his ring journey that Franklin's crews had
landed on the west coast, of Kin- William Island, magnanimously
sent Lieutenant Eobson in that direction, feeling sure that the first
traces of the lost expedition would he found there; he did this in
to ensure that officer's promotion.
268 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
to wards the Great Fish River. Before separating,
they ascertained from some Eskimos whom they met,
that two vessels had been seen by the natives of King
William Island ; that one had been crushed by the
ice and sunk in deep water, and that the other had
been forced on shore, and was much injured. In the
latter ship was found the body of a tall man, who was
reported to have had long teeth. 1
The Eskimos are unable to comprehend or realise
intervals of time, but it was supposed that these vessels
had been seen by them some years ago, and in the fall
of the year, i.e., August or September*. M'Clintock was
further informed that a number of white men from
these ships were seen journeying with a boat, or boats,
in the direction of the Great Fish River, at the mouth
of which their bones were, it was said, found the fol-
lowing winter. This was all the information they were
able to obtain from the natives, but it was of a most
important nature, for it informed them that the exist-
ence of the missing ships was actually known to the
Eskimos ; that one had disappeared under the ice, and
that the other had been stranded ; it was therefore safe
to infer, with regard to the latter ship, that it was
within the bounds of possibility to discover the locality
in which she had been wrecked, in which case they
might perhaps find some important records or docu-
ments relating to the expedition.
On the 8th of May M'Clintock reached King William
Island, and visited a snow village in which he found
some thirty or forty inhabitants. From these people he
1 This appearance of "long teeth " is supposed to be attributable
to the disease of which the unfortunate man had probably died, i.e.,
scurvy.
RELICS RECOVERED FROM ESEIMOS.
purchased several pieces of silver plate, on which the ini-
tials, or crests, of Sir John Franklin. Captain Crozier,
Lieutenant Fairholme, and Dr. M 'Donald were engraved,
besides other articles that had undimhtedly been ob-
tained from the missing expedition. The silver forks and
spoons were readily exchanged for a few needles.
The natives informed M'Clintock that the wreck of
one of the ships was about five days' journey from them,
on the west coast of King William Island, but that
little remained of it, as everything of use had been
appropriated and carried off by their countrymen. No
books, documents, or printed matter had been saved,
they said, from the wreck, but had all, long ago, been
destroyed by exposure to the weather. They further
said that —
'•The white men dropped by the way, as they went to the
Great River ; that some were buried, and some were not." '
No satisfactory approximation of the numbers of the
white men, or the interval of time that had elapsed since
they died, could be ascertained.
Pushing onwards, Point Ogle was reached on the 12th
of May, and the same night the party camped on the
ice at the entrance of the Great Fish River. Montreal
Island was subsequently carefully examined, but with
barren results, for there was a total absence of all
relics, and no vestige of a cairn could be found, or any
indications that our missing countrymen had even visited
the island. It must, however, be remembered that the
country had not then emerged from its wintry garb of
snow. On the 18th M'Clintock crossed over to the
mainland in the neighbourhood of Point Duncan, and un
1 Voyage of the Fox, by Sir Leopold M'Clintock.
270 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
the following day commenced his return journey. Re-
crossing the strait to King William Island, the southern
shore was examined, but without finding any traces of
those whom they were seeking, neither did they find any
signs of the wreck spoken of by the natives, until they
reached the vicinity of Cape Herschel, when, shortly
after midnight on the 25th of May, M'Clintock suddenly
came upon a human skeleton lying face downwards, on
the crest of a ridge, with its head towards the Great
Fish River. The bones were bleached perfectly white.
It was supposed to be the remains of a young man, and
from the dress, was thought to be a steward, or officer's
servant. M'Clintock was under the impression that the
poor fellow had selected the bare ridge top as offering
the easiest road for walking, and to have fallen on his
face and died in the position in which his remains were
found. Although diligent search was made, no records,
or other relics, could be found, until a spot about twelve
miles from Cape Herschel was reached, when a small
cairn that had been constructed by Hobson was dis-
covered, in which was found a note from that officer
addressed to M'Clintock, containing the important and
interesting revelation, an account of which has already
been given in a previous chapter, namely, the discovery
of the only known record left by the survivors of the
Erebus and Terror, that tells us the sad mournful his-
tory of the missing expedition.
This touching but interesting document, a reduced
fac-simile of which is here produced, was found by
Lieutenant Hobson at Point Victory, on the north-west
coast of King William Island. The important and ex-
citing news it communicated was written round the
margin of a printed form, usually supplied to ships with
t~ r 9~ r
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»cy; the Admiralty, London, with a neie of the time and pit
A^y^E^lj found,: or. if more convenient, to deliver it for that
lS<3nih<;K}d^r.
Mia
W hoever finds this paper is requested to forward it to the Secretary of. ' J >>i ~
d place at which it uvS ^sS A
purpose to the British -^ . -|s \
4^*1) ^ Consul at the nearest Port. ; ^5 -"^
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FmoEnEN af dette r3pP3§BEeaes. ruar Leiliphed gives, at sende j > v j
sammetjl Admiralitets Secretairen i London, eller naLrniestc Embedsmand j ' J! ~
i Danmark, NorgW, eller Svenrig. Tiden og Stocdit hw»r dctte er furulct ** 3V M
onshes v-ens)<abeligt paalegij^^^^g^ ~i fcr^f Q_
diesen Zettel ^j
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SSSaltS' 1 '' by le voeg'en eene Notn,» j7"\( ,
Papier ii revonden geworden*
hit
REDUCED FAI 3IMILE 01 FRANKLINS I. AST RECORD.
Repro 'Th( Karratm oj th /' Fate oj Si) John Frank-
lin by kind permi trionoj Mr. John Murray.
To face j age 270.]
1859.] RECORD FOUND IN CAIRN. 271
the object of being enclosed in bottles and thrown over-
board in various localities, for the purpose of ascertain
ing the set and general drift (if oceanic currents. They
are generally called "bottle-papers," and are printed in
six different languages, each conveying a request that
any person finding the paper will forward it to the
Secretary of the Admiralty, noting the date and place
at which it was picked up. The marginal nutations that
revealed the sad fate of the expedition, were written
and signed by Captains Crozier and Fitzjames; the
greater part of it being in the handwriting of the latter
officer. This document had originally been deposited in
the cairn by Lieutenant Graham Gore in the spring
of 1847, when all was well with the expedition, and
when they had every prospect of bringing their labours
to a successful termination. One short year had altered
all these bright and hopeful anticipations — twelve brief
months from the time the first few lines were penned on
this precious document, were sufficient to effect a change
in their joyous aspirations, and to reduce the party
from a band of eager and expectant explorers, buoyed
up by a feeling, almost amounting to a certainty, of
shortly accomplishing the great work they had set them-
selves to achieve, to a throng of struggling, half famished
men, fighting the great battle of life, with disease, starva-
tion, and death staring them in the face.
Having made a careful and thorough, but unsuccessful,
search in the neighbourhood for records, journals, or other
relics of the lost expedition, M'Clintock pushed onwards,
and on the 29th of May reached the west extreme of
King William Island, which he named Capo Crozier,
after the leader of that ill-fated band of men, to ascer-
tain whose fate he was evincing such extraordinary
■27-2 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
exertions. From this point of land the coast-line trended
somewhat abruptly to the north-eastward, and early on
the following morning they pitched their tent alongside
a large boat, another melancholy relic of the lost ships,
mounted on a heavily constructed sledge. Deeply inte-
resting as was this discovery, it was rendered still more
so by the fact that the boat contained the portions of
two human skeletons. One was that of a slightly built
young man ; the other was apparently a large, power-
fully built person of middle age, and was supposed to
be that of an officer. In the boat was also found a
number of books, chiefly of a scriptural or devotional
character, five watches, a couple of double-barrelled
guns (one barrel in each being loaded and at full
cock), besides numerous other articles of various descrip-
tions, principally clothing. A little tea and chocolate
were all the provisions that could be found, thus
almost establishing the fact that the poor fellows had
succumbed to starvation, and perhaps when in the very
act of protecting themselves from an attack by polar
bears, or other wild animals, for their guns were by
their side and ready for instant use ; indeed the appear-
ances suggest that either for the supply of food, or for
their own protection, they had been already driven to
the necessity of having recourse to their firearms, as
one barrel from each gun had been, apparently, dis-
charged.
There is little more to relate regarding the last
moments of our unfortunate countrymen. The remark-
able absence of all records, journals, log-books, or other
documentary evidence, surrounds their fate with a myste-
rious halo which it is impossible to clear away, and is
difficult even to penetrate. All must therefore be left
1859.] RETURN OF M'CLINTOCK J73
to conjecture, and we can only surmise that the unhappy
members of the lost expedition, fell victims to sickness
and starvation before they had succeeded in getting
many miles from their ships ; as a matter of fact, the
boat, with the ghastly remains of its crew, was found
only sixty-five miles from the position of the Erebus and
Terror when they were abandoned, although seventy miles
from the place where the first skeleton was discovered.
Having collected all the most interesting and port-
able relics 1 they could obtain, but having failed in
finding traces of the two vessels, M'Clintock returned
to the little Fox, which he reached on the 19th of June.
Hobson had arrived five days before, and Allen Young
returned some eight days later, having successfully deter-
mined the insularity of Prince of Wales' Land. Both
these officers had made wonderful journeys, in the face of
unparalleled hardships and difficulties.
The amount of new coast-line discovered during the
spring journeys by M'Clintock and Hobson was nearly
420 miles, while that explored by Young was 380 miles,
making a total, altogether, of 800 geographical miles of
entirely new coast-line to be added to our charts. On
the 10th of August the Fox, having been liberated from
her icy bonds, steamed out of Brentford Bay, and with-
out any further event worthy of particular notice, reached
London on the 23rd of September, when the important
and interesting nature of the discoveries was made gener-
ally known.
1 Among the relics found and brought home was a sextant belong-
ing to Frederick Hornby, who was a mate in the Terror. This was in
after years presented by his brother, Admiral Wyndham Hornby,
to Lieutenant Wyatt Kawsnn, K.N., who served as a lieutenant in
the Discovery in the Arctic expedition of 1875-6. This gallant and
promising officer was mortally wounded while leading the British
army to the attack at the battle of Ti 1 1 I Kebir.
s
274 LIFE OF SIE JOHN FRANKLIN. [1847-
Thus ended this last and most successful of all the
numerous expeditions that had been despatched, with
the object of ascertaining the fate of Sir John Franklin
and his brave companions. Its success was due to the
untiring energy, the ability, and skill displayed by
M'Clintock and his officers and crew, and to the fact
that he had decided to search in the right direction, and
not proceed on a quest without any definite information
to guide him, as was the case in the expeditions that had
preceded him. A large share of the success is also due
to the devotion and persistence of Lady Franklin, and
the unselfish spirit that formed one of the chief char-
acteristics of her heroic nature.
M'Clintock's discoveries revealed the fact, as an
eminent author 1 has expressed it —
" That to Sir John Franklin is due the priority of discovery
of the north-west passage — that last link, to forge which he
sacrificed his life."
Valuable geographical information was also the result
of this remarkable voyage. The existence of Bellot
Strait was confirmed. The shores of King William
Island were thoroughly explored, as well as the west
coast of Boothia, whilst the insularity of Prince of
Wales' Land was definitely established, besides the
existence of a channel, a continuation of Peel Sound,
leading down to Bellot Strait. Thus, it will be seen
that much good and useful geographical work was
accomplished by this expedition. This was fully recog-
nised by the Government; ^5000 was voted to Captain
M'Clintock and his officers and men, while ^"2000 was
1 John Brown, in his "North-west Passage and the Search for Sir
John Franklin."
1859.] HONOURS CONFERRED ON M'CLINTOCK 275
given for the erection of a monument in Waterloo Place
to the memory of Sir John Franklin. Engraven on the
pedestal of this monument is the following inscription : —
FRANKLIN.
TO THE GREAT NAVIGATOR
AND HIS BRAVE COMPANIONS
WHO SACRIFICED THEIR LIVES IN
COMPLETING THE DISCOVERY OP
THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE
A.D. 1847-48
ERECTED BY THE UNANIMOUS VOTE
OF PARLIAMENT
Her Majesty was also pleased to confer on Captain
M'Clintock the honour of knighthood. The freedom
of the City of London was likewise conferred on him,
whilst honorary degrees were bestowed upon him by
the different universities of England and Ireland.
The Patron's Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical
Society was subsequently awarded him —
"For his unflinching fortitude and skill, by which the
precious Record, unveiling the fate of Sir John Franklin
and the abandonment of the Erebus and Terror, was recovered,
and for his geographical discoveries."
while at the same time the Founder's Medal was
happily, and with exceptional favour, awarded by the
Royal Geographical Society to Lady Franklin —
"In token of their admiration of her devoted conduct in
persevering until the fate of her husband was finally ascer-
tained.' 3
The devoted and heroic widow, the fit consort of the
276
LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
[1847-
equally devoted and heroic Franklin, died in 1S75, at
the age of eighty-three years. One of her last works,
if not the very last, in connection with her husband's
memory, was the erection of a marble monument of
STATUE OF FRANKLIN IN THE MARKET-TEACE, SPILSBY.
Sir John Franklin in Westminster Abbey. It was
unveiled only a fortnight after her death. It was her
great wish to write the epitaph herself, but dying
before this was accomplished, it was written by Alfred
1859.] STATT ES OF FRANKLIN. 277
Tennyson, who was a nephew of Sir John by marriage.
It is as follows : —
"Not here ! the white North hath thy bones, and thou
Heroic Sailor Soul !
Art passing on thy happier voyage now
Towards no earthly poll
The late Dean Stanley added a note to this, to the
effect that the monument was "erected by his widow,
who, after long waiting and sending many in search of
him, herself departed to seek and to find him in the
realms of light, iSth July 1875, aged eighty-three years."
A statue of Sir John Franklin was also erected in the
open market-place of his native town, Spilsby.
Sir John Franklin, it may be mentioned, was pro-
moted to the rank of rear-admiral, in his regular place
of seniority on the Navy List on the 26th October 1852,
somewhat over five years after his death. His name
was not removed from the Navy List until the exact
date of his death had been ascertained by the dis-
covery of the record by M'Clintock.
In the year 1846 he was elected a correspondent of
the Paris Academy of Sciences.
CHAPTER XV.
VOYAGES OF DR. HAYES— NORDENSKIOLD— LEIGH
SMITH— THE GERMANS— CAPTAIN HALL— THE
AUSTRO-HUNGARIANS — SIR GEORGE NARES —
ALLEN YOUNG — SCHWATKA — THE " J E AN-
NETTE"— NORDENSKIOLD ACCOMPLISHES THE
NORTH-EAST PASSAGE — LEIGH SMITH — GREE-
LEY— VALEDICTORY.
1 860- 1 884.
"The bodies and the bones of those
Who strove in other days to pass,
Lie withered in the thorny close,
Or blanched and blown about the grass."
— Sleep ing Beauty.
Since the return of Sir Leopold M'Clintock in 1859,
various expeditions, under different flags, sought to pene-
trate the icy solitudes of the north, in furtherance of
geographical discovery, and in the elucidation of inte-
resting questions appertaining to various branches of
science. These were all more or less successful, while
several penetrated far into the unknown area.
In i860, Dr. Hayes, who had won his spurs as an
Arctic explorer under Dr. Kane, in the Advance in 1853
and two following years, sailed from Boston in a schooner
of 133 tons, named the United States, with the object of
continuing the line of exploration up Smith Sound fol-
lowed by Dr. Kane. Without any event deserving of
278
1884.] SUBSEQUENT ARCTIC VOYAGES. 27fl
special notice, he reached the entrance to Smith Sound,
when his further progress in a northerly direction was
stopped by ice. Being unable to push on, he secm-ed
his ship in winter quarters in latitude 78° 18', just
inside Cape Alexander, and about twenty miles south of
the position in which Kane had passed his two winters.
In the spring of the following year sledging parties
were despatched to examine the west side of the channel
in a northerly direction. The highest latitude stated
to have been reached was 81° 35'. Animal life was
abundant in the vicinity of their winter quarters, and
no difficulty was experienced in procuring a constant
supply of fresh animal food. The United States returned
to Boston in October 1861.
The Swedes, under Professor NordensMold, sent seve-
ral expeditions to Spitzbergen between the years 1858
and 1872, for the purpose of scientific research, and more
particularly with the object of making investigations with
a view to future operations connected with the measure-
ment of an arc of the meridian. In the course of these
tentative voyages they succeeded iu rounding Cape
Platen, to the east of the Seven Islands, a point further
to the eastward along the northern coast of Spitzbergen,
than had ever before been reached. In September 1868
they attained in an iron steamer, named the Sophie,
the latitude of 8i° 42', on the 18th meridian of east
longitude.
Mr. Leigh Smith, an energetic and enthusiastic Arctic
yachtsman, also on several occasions made very successful
and interesting expeditions to Spitzbergen and adjacent
seas; his observations and discoveries had the effect
of considerably altering the hitherto assumed shape of
North-East Land.
280 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
In 1869, the Germans, with praiseworthy zeal, fitted
out an expedition, consisting of the Germania, a steamer
of 140 tons, and a small brig called the Hansa, with the
object of exploring the north-east coast of Greenland.
As scientific investigation was to form a special feature
of the work to be carried out, several scientific gentle-
men formed part of the personnel of the expedition.
The ships were under the command of Captain Karl
Koldewey, who was in the Germania, Captain Hege-
mann being the commander of the II ansa. They sailed
from Bremen in June, provisioned for a contemplated
absence of two years.
Shortly after reaching the Greenland coast, in latitude
70° 46', the ships were unavoidably separated, and on
the 22nd October the little Hansa was unfortunately
crushed by the heavy ice floes by which she was
encompassed. With materials saved from the wreck
the crew succeeded in constructing a shelter for them-
selves on the floe, in which wretched abode the winter
was passed, not, however, without considerable anxiety
and excitement, for towards the end of the year the floe
cracked right across, thus effectually causing the ruin of
their somewhat fragile and insecure domicile ; another
one was however improvised from the remains of the
materials saved. Finally, in June 1870, having drifted
in a general southerly direction a distance of 1 1 00 miles
on their extremely precarious raft, the dimensions of
which were, day by day, being gradually reduced by the
melting of the ice, until it was only 300 feet in breadth,
they succeeded in launching their boats, which had pro-
videntially been saved, and were thus able to reach the
little Danish settlement of Friedrikshal, in the vicinity
of Cape Farewell ; here they were well taken care of
1884.] i ATTAIN HALL'S Alt* TI< EXPEDITION.
by the hospitable Danes, and eventually sent borne in
the annual vessel trading between tbe Greenland ports
and Denmark.
Meanwhile the Germania, by the aid of her steam
power, succeeded in reaching the latitude of 75° 30',
when her further progress in a northerly direction was
checked by heavy ice. and she was compelled to retrace
her steps to the southward until the Pendulum Islands
were reached, where the ship was made snug for the
winter. Sledging parties were despatched during the
ensuing spring, which reached the 77th parallel, the
highest latitude on the east coast of Greenland that has
ever been attained. The most northern point was
named Cape Bismarck. On being released from their
winter quarters, exploration was carried out in a south-
erly direction along the coast, and the Germania eventu-
ally returned to Bremen in September 1870. The result
of this expedition was to finally set at rest any hope that
might have existed of attaining a high latitude along the
east coast of Greenland, for the ice encountered was of
such a heavy nature as to utterly preclude the possibility
of navigating a ship through it.
In 1871, Captain C. F. Hall, a native of Cincinnati.
sailed from New York in an old steam gunboat, which
had been handed over to him by the Navy Depart-
ment, and renamed the Polaris. His object was to
reach the North Pole by way of Smith Sound. Dr.
Emil Bessels, a German professor of great ability and
scientific attainments, accompanied the expedition as
chief of the scientific staff, while Moreton, who served
with Kane in 1853, and Hans the Eskimo, who was with
both Kane and Hayes, were also on board.
Captain Hall, if should here be observed, had always
282 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
been firmly impressed with the practicability of obtain-
ing more complete and fuller details relative to the fate
of Franklin's expedition than were brought home by
M'Clintock. With the object of throwing more light on
this interesting subject, he had voluntarily passed five
years with the Eskimos on the north side of Hudson's
Strait, for the express purpose of habituating himself to
their mode of life, and acclimatising himself to the
severity and hardships incidental to an Arctic winter,
so that he might be the better fitted to prosecute his
researches for the missing expedition. Having this in
view, he was landed in 1864 from a whale ship near the
south entrance of Sir Thomas Howe's Welcome in the
north part of Hudson's Bay, with only two Eskimo
companions, and a boat laden with stores and pro-
visions. For the succeeding five years this enthusiastic
explorer lived entirely with the Eskimos, with whom
he cultivated friendly relations. During this time he
visited and explored Hecla and Fury Strait, and eventu-
ally reached the south-eastern shore of King William
Island, where he obtained some relics of the Franklin
expedition, but was unsuccessful, as others had been
before him, in his efforts to find any of the documents or
journals belonging to the missing ships. The evidence
that he obtained from the natives, simply confirmed the
statements brought home by Rae and M'Clintock, but
threw no further light on the ultimate fate of the officers
and men who had abandoned the Erebus and Terror.
He returned to New York in 1869.
Proceeding up Smith Sound, the Polaris encountered
but little obstruction from the ice, which was unusually
loose and open, and Hall had the extreme satisfaction
of carrying his ship to a higher northern latitude than
1884.] DEATH OF CAPTAIN HALL. 283
had ever been reached by any previous vessel, viz., S2 16'.
Having attained this unprecedented success, his diffi-
culties commenced, for his ship was almost immediately
beset by heavy ice, in which he was carried some dis-
tance to the southward. >She was, however, in a few
•lavs extricated from her somewhat critical position in
the pack, and was eventually secured in winter quarters
on the east side of the channel, in a harbour protected at
its entrance by a grounded iceberg, which was appropri-
ately named Providence Berg, while the harbour itself
was called Thank God Bay. This was in latitude 81° 3S'.
In the month of October Captain Hall started off
on a reconnoitering expedition with a dog-sledge. He
was away for a few days only, and was taken ill almost
immediately after his return ; he died on the Sth of
November. The loss of Captain Hall was a death-blow
to the enterprise. The command devolved on the sailing-
master, an old whaling skipper, quite unfitted for the
conduct of such a service. Dissensions cropped up
amongst officers and men, and it was consequently
decided to return to the United States directly the
ship was released. But little exploring work, as may
be imagined, was effected during the spring, and
although the ship was liberated in June, it was not until
August that the homeward journey was commenced.
The conditions of the ice, however, in Bobeson Channel
were vastly different to what they had experienced the
preceding year, for shortly after their departure from
Thank God Bay, the /'<>/<iris was beset in the pack, in
which she drifted helplessly down Smith Sound into
Baffin's Bay. On the 15th of October they encountered
a violent gale from the south-east, veering to south, ami
finally settling down at south-west. After many and
284 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
severe buffetings, the already sorely-crippled ship was
seriously squeezed between two heavy masses of ice,
which, raising the vessel bodily, threw her over on her
port side. Her timbers, from the violent pressure to
which she was subjected, cracked with loud reports, and
her sides seemed to be breaking in. In this critical
situation, when, perhaps, the destruction of their ship was
but the matter of a few moments, the necessary arrange-
ments were made for her immediate abandonment. Pro-
visions and stores were hastily thrown on the ice; coal,
provisions, clothing, and stores of every kind that were
accessible, were hurriedly passed out of the ship, and
placed as near as possible in the centre of the largest
floe to which they were attached, while a couple of boats,
fortunately, as it turned out, were also lowered and hauled
up to a place of safety on the ice.
Suddenly, in the inky darkness of the night, the
ship broke froin the floe to which she had been secured,
and driving before the raging gale, was, in a moment,
in the wild commotion of the elements and the blinding
snowstorm with which they were assailed, lost to sight
to those of their companions who were receiving and
stowing the stores and provisions on the ice. The party
thus left in this unenviable situation consisted of Cap-
tain Tyson (the assistant navigator), and nine men
belonging to the Polaris, besides nine Eskimos, including
three women and a baby. Fortunately, in consequence
of the prompt measures taken to pass the provisions out
of the ship, they were in no immediate want of food,
and their supply was subsequently supplemented by bears
and seals that were occasionally shot by the Eskimo
hunters. To the skill, energy, and success of the two
Eskimos, Joe and Hans, the entire party owed their lives.
1884.] PERILOUS VOYAGE ON AN ICE-FLOE. 285
Without them they would all. undoubtedly, have perished
from starvation. Seeing that there was but little hope
of being rescued by the Polaris, of whose position, or
even safety, they were ignorant, they proceeded to con-
struct a house from materials that had been thrown out
from the ship, in order to afford them some protection
and shelter from the inclemency of the coming winter.
Several snow-houses were also erected. The piece of ice
on which they were encamped, and on which the entire
party passed the winter, was about ioo yards in length,
and 75 yards broad. On this they drifted down, all that
long interminable winter, past Baffin's Bay and Davis'
Strait, the floe gradually crumbling away and reducing
in size as it drifted south, until on the ist of April the
party were compelled to take to their remaining boat.
for the second one had long since been utilised for fuel.
They were eventually picked up by the English sealer
Tigress, off the coast of Labrador, in latitude 53 35', on
the 30th of April 1873, having drifted on their preca-
rious raft a distance of no less than 1500 miles during
the 196 days since they were separated from their ship.
Let us now return to the Polaris, which we left being
driven helplessly and rapidly, on the breaking up of the
pack, in an easterly direction by the violence of the gale ;
those on board were quite unable to do anything to suc-
cour their companions who were so suddenly and so
unexpectedly ca>1 away on the ice, nor were they in a
position to take any immediate steps to afford them
relief, in consequence of steam not being ready, the
murky darkness that prevailed, and the speed with which
the ship was driven by the wind. Their boats also were
with the party left on the floe.
On the following morning, the Polaris, being in a leaky
286 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
and shattered condition, was run on shore in Lifeboat
Cove, Lyttleton Island, on the east side of the entrance
to Smith Sound; and here, with the assistance of the
Etah Eskimos, who provided them with fresh food in the
shape of seals and reindeer, they passed a comparatively
pleasant winter, in a house which was erected in the
vicinity of the wreck. The winter months were occupied
in constructing a couple of boats ; in these the party em-
barked on the 3rd of June, with the intention of reaching
one of the Danish settlements on the west coast of Green-
land ; they were, however, rescued on the 21st of the
same month by the Dundee whaler Ravenscraig in Mel-
ville Bay. They were subsequently transferred to the
whaler Arctic, Captain Adams, in which ship they were
eventually taken to Dundee, and thence sent across to
New York.
The success attending this expedition was very remark-
able and quite unprecedented ; it clearly demonstrated
how very variable are the conditions of the ice in certain
parts of the Arctic regions, and how much may, and can,
be accomplished in what is termed a favourable ice year.
In the short space of five days the Polaris succeeded in
accomplishing a distance of five hundred miles through
what had always been, and is still, considered an ice-
choked sea, viz., from Cape Shackleton to the highest
northern position she attained. But in twelve brief
months everything was changed, for on her return to the
southward the following year she was helplessly beset
by heavy masses of ice, in those same channels that had
the previous year been comparatively free and navi-
gable, and she drifted down into Baffin's Bay at the
average rate of about two knots an hour. The scientific
results of this expedition were exceedingly valuable,
1884.] THE AUSTRO-HUNGAEIAN EXPEDITION. :
although much important data, together with the greater
part of the natural history collections, were unavoidably
and unfortunately lost.
The next expedition of geographical importance was
the Austro- Hungarian one, under the joint command
of Captain Weyprecht of the Austrian navy, and Lieu-
tenant Julius Payer, a military officer. The first-named
officer was in command of the ship, and was, of course,
solely responsible for its navigation and for all explora-
tion by sea ; but to Payer was entrusted the organisation
and the conduct of all sledging and travelling parties on
shore. These officers had made a preliminary summer
cruise in the waters it was intended to explore, in a little
sloop called the Ishjorn, for the purpose of ascertaining
the position and condition of the ice. Payer had also
served in the German expedition under Koldewey. 1 The
leaders were therefore not altogether unfamiliar with ice
navigation. The main object of the enterprise was the
achievement of the north-east passage, which they hoped
to accomplish, by sailing round the northern extreme of
Novaya Zemlya, and thence along the Siberian coast to
Bering's Strait. The Tegetthoff, a steamer of three hun-
dred tons burthen, was especially built for the purpose,
and everything being ready, she sailed from Bremerhaven
on the 13th June 1872. On the 29th of the following
month the Tegetfhoff was beset by the ice off the west
coast of Novaya Zemlya, from which besetment she was
with some difficulty extricated ; but on the 2 3 id of
August she was again beset off the same coast, and in
spite of the powerful aid of steam, assisted by gunpow d< 1,
and the unremitting exertions of the officers and men. the
unforl unate ship was held fast by the ice, never again t<> be
' See p. 280, a 1
288 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
released. In this helpless condition she drifted about at
the mercy of the winds and currents of the Polar regions
for two long years. On the 31st August 1873 a mys-
terious unknown land was suddenly observed, looming
up in the far distance to the northward, to which they
gave the name of Franz Josef Land, thus becoming the
discoverers, although unwittingly, of a new and im-
portant tract of country whose existence was hitherto
unknown. Payer thus alludes to the discovery : —
" About midday, as we were leaning on the bulwarks of the
ship and scanning the gliding mists, through which the rays
of the sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting itself up
suddenly, revealed to us afar off in the north-west, the out-
lines of bold rocks, which in a few minutes seemed to grow
into a radiant alpine land ! At first we all stood transfixed
and hardly believing what we saw. Then carried away by
the reality of our good fortune, we burst forth into shouts of
joy : — Land, land, land at last ! There was not a sick man
on board the Tegctthoff / The news of the discovery spread
in an instant. Every one rushed on deck to convince him-
self with his own eyes, that the expedition was not after all
a failure — there before us lay the prize that could not be
snatched from us. . . . For thousands of years this land had
lain buried from the knowledge of men, and now its dis-
covery had fallen into the lap of a small band, themselves
almost lost to the world who, far from their home, remem-
bered the homage due to their sovereign, and gave to the newly
discovered territory the name of Kaiser Franz Josef's Land.
With loud hurrahs we drank to the health of our Emperor
in grog hastily made on deck in an iron coffee-pot, and then
dressed the Tegetthoff with flags."
Strenuous efforts wore made to extricate the ship from
her icy thraldom during the summer and autumn of
1873, but these proving futile, a second winter, if pos-
sible more cheerless and wretched than the first, bad to
1884.]
FRANZ JOSEF LAND DISCOVERED.
2S9
be endured. The general drift of the ship during the
time of their besetnient was governed, it was supposed,
by the prevailing winds, and was not, it was thought,
due so much to tide or current. This drift was in a
general northerly direction. The position of the ship
when she was first beset on the 21st August 1872 was
latitude 7 6° 22', and longitude 62 3' E. On the 1st of
January 1873 she was in latitude 78° 37', and longitudo
66° 56'. On the 1st February her position was 78° 45' N.
latitude, and 73° 7' E. longitude, thus showing that she
had been carried steadily during the period named in a
north-easterly direction. From the last-mentioned date
until the 1st of November, when the ship became station-
ary in consequence of the attachment of the ice in which
she was beset to the land, her drift was in a north and
north-westerly direction. Her positions on the under-
mentioned dates were as shown in the following table :
Longitude.
66° 49' E.
64 58
62 43
59 i4
60 40
60 33
60 41
58 56
The important and unexpected discovery of Franz
Josef Land, very naturally instilled fresh hopes in the
hearts of the explorers ; but, in spite of their apparent
proximity to the land, they were, much to their chagrin
and disappointment, unable to reach the shores of this
newly found territory, in consequence of the assures in
the ice that lay between them and the coast, and the fact
T
Latitude.
April 1 . . .
• 79° 5'N.
May 1 . . .
• 79 15
Julie 1 . . .
. 79 2
July 1 . . .
• 79 15
August 1 . .
. 7 3 56
September 1 .
. 79 4o
October 1 . .
• 79 58
November 1 .
• 79 51
290 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
that the ship was still drifting at the mercy of the winds,
in varying directions which they were unable accurately
to determine ; her position, therefore, would be uncer-
tain, and perhaps difficult, or even impossible, to reach
on the return of any exploring parties that might be
rash enough to leave her for an extended trip. During
the month of October, however, the Tegetthqff was carried
to within three miles of an island, situated near to the
mainland ; this island was, as may readily be imagined,
visited by nearly all the crew. Its position was in lati-
tude 79 54'. Payer writes of it : —
" An island more desolate than that which we had reached
can hardly be imagined, for snow and ice covered its frozen
debris-covered slopes."
From this date the ship remained immovable, firmly
frozen into its icy bed, which was held stationary by
grounded icebergs. Numerous bears visited the ship
during the winter, and not unnaturally paid the pen-
alty of their temerity and inquisitiveness, their flesh
affording a welcome change to the diet which those on
board had for so long been accustomed to. No less
than sixty-seven of these animals were killed at various
times by members of the expedition, producing about
12,000 lbs. of fresh meat. Several seals were also
obtained.
Of course their prospects of release formed the sub-
ject of much anxious discussion during the winter. The
apparently hopeless chance of extricating the ship being
generally acknowledged, it was resolved to abandon her
in the ensuing summer, and endeavour to return to
Europe with the combined aid of boats and sledges.
Before, however, the season was sufficiently advanced
18S4.] CROWN PRINCE RUDOLFF LAND. 291
to make a start, it was decided to attempt, as far as
possible, the exploration of the unknown land to which
they had been so mysteriously carried.
"With this object in view, Payer, with half a dozen
men, left the ship for a preliminary sledge journey on
the ioth of March, taking with him three dogs to assist
in dragging the sledge. Travelling in a north-westerly
direction, they skirted the coast of Hall Island and
ascended Capes Tegetthoff and M'Clintock, the latter
being some 2500 feet in height. These ascents were
expressly made for the purpose of ascertaining the general
trend of the land and its physical aspects, so as to facili-
tate the larger and more important work of exploration
which, it was designed, should be undertaken at a later
period. On the journey they experienced great cold,
the thermometer on one occasion falling as low as -58
Fahr. They returned to the ship, on the 16th, fully
satisfied with the result of their researches.
Eight days after his return Payer started on his
extended journey to the northward, accompanied, as
before, by six men and three dogs. Passing up Austria
Sound, between Zichy and Wilczek Lands, the travellers
reached their highest latitude, in what was named Crown
Prince Kudolff Land, in latitude 82 5', about 160 miles
from the jwsition in which they had left their ship. The
coast along which they travelled was intersected by
numerous fiords, and fringed by numberless islands.
The geological features of the land appeared to coincide
with those of north-east Greenland, some of the hills
rising to an altitude of 3000 feet. The valleys between
the mountain ranges were filled with large glaciers. A
peculiar feature connected with this neighbourhood
was that the low islands in Austria Sound wore covered
292 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
witli a glacial cap. Vegetation was poor and insignifi-
cant, but it must be remembered that the country was
wearing its wintry garb of snow at the time the ex-
plorers were travelling. Cape Fligely, the most northern
point, was reached on the 1 2th of April ; even at this
early period of the year a large water space was seen, in
which the explorers could undoubtedly have gone some
miles further to the northward, had they been provided
with a boat. The furthest land seen to the north was
called Petermann Land, and this was estimated to be
beyond the 83rd parallel of north latitude. Having
planted the Austro-Hungarian flag at the highest point
reached, the homeward march was commenced, and on
the 24th of April they arrived alongside their ship, safe
and sound, after a toilsome and arduous journey. On
the 20th of the following month the colours were nailed
to the mast, the good ship that had been their home for
two years was then abandoned, and they started on their
long journey to Europe, carrying with them provisions
for three or four months packed in four boats which
were mounted on sledges. So heavy were the weights
to be dragged, and so rough was the ice and so deep
the snow over which they travelled, that after incessant
labour for a period of two months, they found that they
had only put a distance of eight miles between them-
selves and the ship ! Fortune, however, favoured them
after this date, and on the 14th of August they succeeded
in reaching the edge of the pack ice, and were able to
launch their boats on the water, when good progress was
made. Favoured by fine weather, they crossed to Novaya
Zemlya, and skirting along that coast to the south, were
eventually picked up by a Russian schooner engaged in
the capture of walruses, which conveyed them to Vardo,
1884.] CAPTAIN NARES' EXrEDITION. 293
which they reached on the 3rd September 1S74; thence
home by mail steamer.
The next expedition that merits our attention is the
one despatched by our own country in 1875 under
the command of Captain Fares. This expedition is of
such recent date, and is so well within the memory of
the public, that only a brief reference to it is considered
necessary. It was sent by the route followed by the
American expedition under Hall, viz., by Smith Sound ;
for it was judged and very rightly, at the time, that in
consequence of the report brought home by the officers
of the Polaris, that particular route offered the best
chances of success, if the attainment of a high northern
latitude was to be the primary consideration. It may be
mentioned that the direction to be followed had actually
been determined before the news reached England of the
safety and return of the Austro-Hungarian expedition.
The ships selected for the service were the Alert
and Discovery, fairly powerful steamers of from 500
to 600 tons burthen. These vessels had been specially
strengthened and equipped, and in every way adapted
for ice navigation. They sailed from Portsmouth
on the 29th May 1875. The orders received by
Captain Nares were to the effect that he was to
proceed up Smith Sound, and after establishing the
Discovery in secure winter quarters in a high northern
latitude, but to the southward of the 82 nd parallel of
latitude, as a relief or depot ship, ho was to push on in
the Alert as far as navigation would admit. When
further progress became impossible, the Alert was also
to be placed in safe winter quarters, whence sledging
parties were to be despatched with the object of attain-
ing the highest northern latitude, and, if found practi-
294 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [I860-
cable, to reach the Pole itself. Although Smith Sound
was found choked with ice, rendering the progress of
the ships slow and dangerous, Nares, with consummate
skill and ability, succeeded in carrying his ships in safety
to latitude 8i° 44', where he left the Discovery, under the
command of Captain Stephenson, to pass the winter in
a snug harbour, which was called Discovery Bay, at the
entrance of Lady Franklin Sound. Thence the Alert
pushed onwards, encountering ice floes thickly packed
and of a very massive description, but fairly good pro-
gress was made by adhering, especially when westerly
winds prevailed, to the stream of water that invari-
ably existed between the land ice and the main pack.
On the 1st September the Alert reached the latitude
of 82° 24' ; and this being a higher latitude than had
ever been attained by a ship before, the colours were
hoisted "amid general rejoicings" to celebrate the
event. But on the same day her further progress was
arrested by a solid pack of heavy ice which defied pene-
tration, and the ship was hauled close into the shore,
and secured behind some large grounded masses of ice,
which afforded an effective protection from the pressure
of the pack. In this somewhat precarious position the
Alert was doomed to pass the succeeding eleven months ;
but an all-merciful Pi'ovidence watched over the good
little ship, and those on board spent under the circum-
stances an exceedingly happy and pleasant winter, more
especially when it is considered that they were passing
it in a higher northern latitude, viz., 82° 27', than any
human beings had ever before been known to winter in.
During the autumn and early spring, sledging parties
were despatched for the purpose of exploi'ing in the
immediate neighbourhood of their winter quarters, and
1884.] ATTEMPT TO REACH NORTH POLE. 295
also with the object of laying out depots of provisions
in advance, on the routes that it was intended should
be taken by the extended sledge parties when they made
their final start in the spring. It was whilst engaged
on one of these preliminary sledging parties during the
autumn, that they had the gratification of passing the
highest latitude reached by Captain Parry in 1827 dur-
ing his memorable attempt to reach the North Pole,
and they thus had the satisfaction of knowing that they
had reached a point nearer to the Pole, than it had ever
before been approached. From this their highest posi-
tion the land was found to trend away abruptly to the
west ; no land was visible to the north — nothing in
that direction was to be seen but an illimitable sea of
snow and ice piled up in large and confused masses.
On the 2nd of April, on a cold but bright morning,
the main sledging parties started, the temperature at
the time being minus 30°, which soon afterwards fell
to 45° below zero. The disposition made by Captain
Nares was for one party to proceed in a due north direc-
tion, travelling over the frozen sea, with the object of
getting as far north as possible ; a second was to explore
to the westward along what was known as the coast
of Grinnell Land; while a third sledging party, from
the Discovery, was directed to examine the north-west
coast of Greenland. Dogs were not used by any of these
sledging parties, but the sledges were dragged entirely
by men. These several parties were travelling for a
period of about eighty days, during which time the
north-west coast of Greenland was explored to latitude
82° 18' and 50° 50' W. longitude. The northern shore
of Grinnell Land was thoroughly examined to the 85th
meridian of longitude, while a position was attained on
296 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
the frozen sea on the 63rd meridian of longitude, in
latitude 83° 20' 26", being just within 400 miles of the
North Pole. In consequence of the serious and severe
outbreak of scurvy which attacked the travellers, and
the exceedingly rough nature of the ice over which
they were compelled to drag their sledges, these several
parties endured great hardships and sufferings.
Chiefly owing to the outbreak of scurvy, and partly
also from the knowledge that further extensive explo-
ration from his base of operations was impracticable,
Captain Hares wisely decided upon returning to England,
which was reached by the two ships in November 1876.
In the same year that witnessed the departure of the
English Polar expedition under Nares, Captain Allen
Young, the companion of M'Clintock in the Fox, an ex-
perienced and enthusiastic Arctic navigator, sailed from
England in the Pandora, an old man-of-war of 430 tons
burthen, fitted with eighty horse-power engines, with
the object, as he tells us, of visiting —
" The western coast of Greenland, thence to proceed through
Baffin Bay, Lancaster Sound, and Barrow Strait towards the
Magnetic Pole, and, if practicable, to navigate through the
north-west passage to the Pacific Ocean in one season."
It was thought, and very rightly, that by following this
line of exploration, the Pandora would most likely be
in the vicinity of King William Island in the summer,
when, as the land would be bare of snow, a fair prospect
of finding some records, or perhaps the logs and journals
of the Erebus and Terror, would be afforded them.
The scheme was undoubtedly a good one and was
well thought out and planned, for no steamer, it must
be remembered, had hitherto endeavoured even to at-
tempt the north-west passage, and no search had been
1884.] CAPTAIN ALLEN YOUNG'S VOYAGE. 297
made for documents or papers of Franklin's expedition
except in the early spring, when the country was covered
with a thick layer of snow. The Pandora was provisioned
for an absence of eighteen months, for although it was
not intended to pass a winter, if possible, in the Arctic
regions, the necessary precautions had to be taken in
the event of the ship being unfortunately detained ; it
was intended and hoped that the programme would be
carried out in one season. Passing through Baffin and
Melville Bays without any hindrance from the ice, the
Pandora entered Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait,
and touching at Beechey Island on her way, pushed up
Peel Strait, only to be stopped, when near the western
entrance to Bellot Strait, by a solid and unbroken pack
of heavy ice, which entirely arrested further progress
to the south. In fact the Pandora was stopped by the
same barrier of heavy ice, held stationary in the quies-
cent water caused by the meeting of the two tides, that
arrested the advance of Franklin in 1847, and M'Chu-e
and Collinson at later dates.
Every effort that was made to push through was
futile, and after several attempts had been made, Captain
Young was reluctantly bound to confess that the accom-
plishment of the north-west passage by the Pandora, for
that year at least, was out of the question, and as the
season was far advanced, for the 1st of September had
already arrived, he retraced his steps through Peel Strait,
though not without great difficulty on account of the
severe weather experienced and the amount of ice that was
met, and thence sailed for England. When they turned
back they were within 140 miles of Point Victory, where
the Franklin record had been discovered by llobson.
Thus ended this plucky attempt to achieve the north-
298 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
west passage. Although he failed in his main object,
Captain Allen Young can lay claim to having been the
first to navigate a vessel in the icy waters of Peel Strait,
unless, indeed, as has already been surmised, the ships
of Franklin had previously sailed over the same route.
The Pandora arrived at Spithead on the 16th of October,
thus bringing to a conclusion this short but most in-
teresting and adventurous voyage.
In 1878 a small party, under the leadership of Lieu-
tenant Frederick Schwatka of the United States army,
consisting of three white men and an Eskimo, left New
York and were landed by a whaler near Chesterfield
Inlet, in Hudson's Bay, with the express object of
attempting to recover the logs and journals of Franklin's
expedition, and, if possible, to clear up some of the
mysteries connected with that sad story. The winter
was passed in Chesterfield Inlet, at Camp Daly, and on
the 1st of April 1879, the party being augmented by a
band of fourteen Eskimos, consisting of men, women,
and children, Schwatka started on his long journey to
King William Island, the sledges being dragged by forty-
four dogs.
On the 10th of June, after a long and toilsome
journey, Cape Herschel, on King William Island, was
reached, and here a permanent camp was established.
From this base the western and southern shores were
carefully examined until the 8th of November, when
the party started on their return to Camp Daly, which
was not however reached until the 4th of March, after
an excessively laborious journey, during which great
hardships and privations were endured. This expedition
revealed no new facts regarding the fate of the missing
expedition, but it corroborated a great deal of the infor-
1884.] GORDON BENNETTS EXPEDITION. 299
uiation that had already been obtained by MClintock,
and it brought home a few more relies. From the
fact of Schwatka having travelled over a route already
explored, the expedition was barren of any important
geographical results.
The next expedition that sailed for the purpose of
exploration in high northern latitudes was despatched
by, and under the auspices of, Mr. Gordon Bennett, the
proprietor of the New York Herald. The vessel selected
for the service was Allen Young's old ship Pandora,
which was renamed the Jeannette. She was equipped,
provisioned, and stored for an absence of three years.
Although the principal burden of the cost of this ex-
pedition was borne by Mr. Bennett, the officers and
crew belonged to the American navy, and were subject
to the United States Naval Discipline Act, as if the
ship had been a regular man-of-war. Her comple-
ment was thirty-two officers and men, and she was com-
manded by Commander De Long, who, as an officer on
board the Tigress, when she was engaged in the search
for the Polaris people, had acquired some knowledge
and experience of ice navigation. The Jeannette sailed
from San Francisco on the 8th of July 1879, with the
expressed object of reaching the North Pole, via Bering's
Strait. She was last seen on the 3rd of September of
the same year, steaming towards Wrangel Land. This
was in accordance with De Long's instructions, for he
had been directed to make his attempt as nearly as
possible in the longitude of Wrangel Land.
Much anxiety was evinced when two years elapsed
and no tidings of the ship had been obtained. Search
expeditions were organised and despatched by the United
States Government with special orders to seek diligently
300 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860.
in the neighbourhood of Herald Island and along the
Siberian coast, in search of the missing ship, but these
efforts were unfortunately without success. In the
latter end of the year 1882, telegraphic information
was received from Russia that the unfortunate Jean-
nctte had been crushed by the ice on the 12th of
June of that year, in latitude 77 N., and longitude
1 5 5 E., having been beset in the ice and drifted
about helplessly at the mercy of the winds and cur-
rents for twenty-two months ; the officers and crew,
however, it was reported, had succeeded in making good
their escape from the ship in three boats, which had to
be dragged over the ice for some considerable distance
before open water was reached. One of these boats was
lost sight of in a gale of wind during the month of
September, and was never afterwards heard of. The
remainder of the party, having endured great hard-
ships and sufferings from exposure and a scarcity of
provisions, eventually succeeded, by the assistance of
their boats, in reaching the mouth of the Lena, whence
two of the seamen were despatched to the nearest
Russian settlement to procure immediate relief, and also
to telegraph the news of their safety, and the necessity
of sending succour as speedily as possible. Unhappily,
before assistance could reach these poor fellows, Com-
mander De Long and the majority of the officers and
crew succumbed to starvation. Mr. Melville and the few
survivors, after undergoing incredible hardships, were
eventually rescued and taken to New York.
The result of this expedition in a geographical point
of view was unimportant, and hardly compensated for
the great loss of life and terrible sufferings of those
engaged in it, to say nothing of the large expenditure
1884.] NORTH-EAST PASSAGE ACHIEVED. 301
of money it entailed. The most important service in-
directly connected with it, from the standpoint of geo-
graphy, was the complete exploration of Wrangel Land
by Lieutenant Berry, who was sent out in the Rodgt rs
to search for the Jeannette.
The most signal geographical achievement of recent
years has, undoubtedly, been the successful accomplish-
ment of the north-east passage in the steamer Vega
by Baron Nordenskibld, ably seconded as he was by
Lieutenant Palander, who was practically the captain
of the ship.
This voyage proved that a well-found steamer, pro-
perly prepared and ably handled, could without great
difficulty pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific, along
the northern coast of Siberia. This was a matter of
importance, bearing, as it did, on the practicability of
opening up a great commercial sea route between
Europe and the mouths of those large and important
rivers, the Obi, the Yenisei, and the Lena.
The Vega, a steamer of 300 tons register, being pro-
visioned for a couple of years, sailed from Gothen-
burg on the 4th of July 1878. Proceeding through
the Norwegian fiords, via Tromso, she passed, without
encountering much difficulty from ice, through the Jugor
Strait to the southward of Waygat Island, and so into
the Kara Sea. Stopping at various places along the
coast of Siberia, for the purpose of collecting natural
history specimens, and for general scientific observations,
Cape Chelyuskin, the most northern promontory of the
old world, was rounded on the 19th August; a salute of
guns was fired, and the ship gaily dressed with Hags in
commemoration of the important event. The position
of this interesting headland was accurately determined
S02 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
by astronomical observations : its most northern part
was found to be in latitude 77° 41' N., and longitude
104° 1' E.
Advancing to the eastward, they encountered much
drift ice, which, though loose and open, consisted of
heavier floes than had hitherto been met with since
the Kara Sea was entered, while their progress was also
somewhat impeded by fogs, which materially added to
the difficulties of navigation. During the temporary
detentions of the ship from these and other causes,
valuable hauls were made with the dredge, resulting in
the catch of many unexpected and interesting varieties
of marine animal types, all, however, essentially peculiar
to the Arctic regions.
On the evening of the 27 th the Vega was off the
mouth of the Lena, when, steering in a north-easterly
direction, a course was shaped for the most southerly
of the New Siberian Islands. This group of islands was
passed on the 30th August, but landing was found to be
impracticable in consequence of the rotten condition of
the ice between the ship and the shore, which did not
admit either of a boat being pushed through, or a man
walking on its surface. Eastward from these islands
was a clear open channel of water extending along the
coast, which enabled the Vega to push on at the rate
of 120 miles a day for three days. The Bear Islands
were reached on the 3rd of September, when the channel
became more and more narrow, being partially blocked
by ice. Under these circumstances they were compelled
to keep close in to the shore, where the water was
unpleasantly shallow. Cape Schelagskoi was reached
on the morning of the 6th, when their progress was
much impeded by loose ice. To add to their difficulties
1834.] A SWEDISH TRIUMPH IN NAVIGATION. 303
the hours of daylight were getting shorter, while their
nights were getting, in a corresponding degree, disagree-
ably long.
On the 1 2th, North Cape (so named by Captain Cook)
was passed, but here their further progress in an
easterly direction was stopped by the impenetrability
of the pack, and they experienced great difficulty in
boring a passage through the ice towards the coast,
where, eventually, the ship was anchored under the
shelter afforded by a large mass of grounded ice.
Here the Vega remained, unable to proceed, until tho
18th, when, as the navigable season was far advanced,
it was determined at all hazards to push on, and en-
deavour to complete the passage before winter finally
overtook them. Their progress was, however, slow
and difficult ; much ice was encountered, and tho water
was exceedingly shallow, thus necessitating the greatest
caution on the part of Captain Palander and his officers.
On the 28th they passed Koljutschin Bay, but were,
almost immediately afterwards, stopped by ice ; and
although they kept the ship prepared for any eventu-
ality at a moment's notice, hoping that a gale of wind or
some other cause might clear the ice out of their way,
they were doomed to disappointment, and on the 25th
November the necessary preparations were made for
passing the winter. This was terribly provoking, for
only a few miles lay between them and the open water
in Bering's Strait, the position of the Vega being about
a mile from the coast at the north part of the strait.
Here, however, they were destined to pass the winter,
during which time much useful and valuable scientific
work was performed by the different members of the ex-
pedition. They were in constant, almost daily, communi-
304 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
cation with the natives of the country, the Tchuktches,
who evinced a very friendly disposition towards them,
and kept them plentifully supplied with bear and rein-
deer meat.
At length, on the 18th of July 1879, the breaking up
of the ice released the Vega. Two days afterwards she
passed East Cape, and steaming into the waters of the
Pacific, succeeded in accomplishing one of the greatest
geographical feats of the age, and one that had baffled
navigators for three hundred years, the achievement of
the north-east passage. On the 2nd of September Yoko-
hama was reached, at which port the successful explorers
were received with every demonstration of joy by the
Japanese, and by the representatives of the different
nations assembled there. Thence, until Stockholm was
reached on the 24th April 1880, their homeward progress
was one long triumphal procession, in which nation
rivalled nation, and port vied with port, in doing honour
to the bold navigators, who had thus rendered them-
selves famous by their dauntless courage, their skill, and
their unbounded energy. Thus ended one of the most
successful geographical expeditions of the present cen-
tury : it was happily conceived, and gallantly carried
out. All honour to the brave Swedes who thus, for
the first time, carried to a successful issue an under-
taking that had for three centuries defied the persistent
efforts of the ablest, the most skilful, and the most
courageous navigators of our own and other countries.
All honour to the brave Palander, who so skilfully navi-
gated the little Vega during her marvellous voyage round
the north extreme of the old world ; and all honour to
that remarkable man, and eminent scientist, Professor,
now Baron, Nordenskiold, to whose subtle and inquiring
1884.] LEIGH SMITH'S ARCTIC EXPLORATION. 305
mind is clue the conception of the voyage, and to whose
skill and energy its success was mainly due.
In the year 1880, Mr. Leigh Smith, who enjoyed, and
very deservedly, the reputation of being a keen and suc-
cessful Arctic navigator, and one who had assisted very
materially in increasing our knowledge of the neighbour-
hood of Spitzbergen, sailed from England in his steam
yacht Eira, with the object of reaching Franz Josef
Land. The Eira was a vessel of 360 tons burthen, fitted
with engines of 50 horse-power, and carried a crew,
all told, of twenty-five men. But little difficulty was
experienced in reaching the south coast of Franz Josef
Land, the shores of which Leigh Smith explored to the
westward for over one hundred miles, and in a northerly
direction to latitude 8o° 20', on about the 40th meridian
of east longitude. At this, his highest position, land
was seen some forty miles distant in a north-westerly
direction. In latitude 8o° 5' he discovered a snug, well-
protected harbour, formed by two islands, with good
anchorage in from five to seven fathoms, which he
named Eira Harbour.
As it was not his intention to pass a winter in the
Arctic Regions, Mr. Leigh Smith returned to England
in October, having achieved a very successful amount of
exploration in a very short time. From the size of the
icebergs met with, besides other indications, it may bo
assumed that Franz Josef Land is of vast extent, and
it is not at all improbable that the dimensions of this
little known land will be found, when explored, to equal
in size the large continent of Greenland. Many bears,
walruses, and seals were seen, and a number of each
wore killed by the sportsmen.
On his return home, the Royal Geographical Society
306 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
presented Mr. Leigh Smith with their Patron's Gold
Medal, for the important discoveries he had made along
the south coast of Franz Josef Land, and for his previous
valuable geographical work along the north-east coast
of Spitzbergen. The Gold Medal of the Paris Geogra-
phical Society was also presented to him in recognition
of the eminent services he had rendered to the science of
geography.
With his appetite only whetted for renewed research
in Franz Josef Land by his late adventurous voyage
to its shores, Mr. Leigh Smith determined to prosecute
further exploration in the same direction. He accord-
ingly set about refitting his little yacht immediately
after his return to England. In alluding to Mr. Leigh
Smith's intentions, in his annual address as President of
the Eoyal Geographical Society, delivered on the 23rd
May 1 88 1, Lord Aberdare thus sums up his character —
"With the enthusiasm indispensable to an Arctic explorer,
he combines the attainments of a scientific observer, and the
skill of an experienced navigator. To these qualifications is
added that of indomitable perseverance."
The Eira being in all respects ready, Mr. Leigh Smith
started from Peterhead on his fifth Arctic voyage on
the 14th June 1881. The ship carried the same com-
plement of officers and men as in the preceding year.
She was provisioned for fifteen months, and carried
with her materials for constructing a house on shore,
in the event of being forced to winter. Mr. Leigh
Smith's intention was to continue his previous explora-
tion as far as possible in a northerly direction, and thus
extend the geographical knowledge of Franz Josef Land
acquired during the past year. After skirting along
1884 ] RESCUE OF LEIGH SMITH'S PARTY. 307
the pack ice for some distance, and after making an
unsuccessful attempt to enter the Kara Sea, he suc-
ceeded in approaching the coast of Franz Josef Land ;
but unfortunately at this juncture the little Eira was
so severely crushed by the ice on the 21st August, when
close to Cape Flora, in latitude 79° 56', that she sank,
two hours afterwards, in deep water. The loss of their
vessel was a terrible blow to their prospects. Luckily,
the short time that intervened prior to her disappear-
ance, enabled them to save some of the stores and pro-
visions from the wreck, and these were subsequently
eked out by walrus and bear meat, which they were
aide to obtain in considerable quantities, and which,
happily, carried them safely through the winter. Even-
thing else was lost. They passed, under the circum-
stances, a comparatively comfortable winter in a hut
built with stones and turf. The only fuel they possessed,
both for the purposes of cooking and keeping themselves
warm, was the blubber obtained from the animals killed.
During the spring they occupied themselves in fitting up
and equipping the boats, in which it was resolved to en-
deavour to escape to the southward in the summer ; in
consequence of the necessity of employing everybody on
this important work it was impossible to undertake any
exploration with sledges on an extended scale, which
would otherwise have been done.
On the 21st of June they bade farewell to their
winter quarters, and, apportioning the party among
the four boats, started on their adventurous and peril-
ous voyage to the southward, in much the same
manner as did that brave old Dutch navigator Willem
Barents three hundred years before, and from a locality
not very far distant from the scene of their retreat.
308 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
Eventually, after undergoing great hardships and fatigue,
they succeeded in reaching the coast of Novaya Zemlya
on the 2nd of August, and on the following clay were
fortunately rescued and brought home in the Hope, a
vessel that had been specially sent out to search for them
under the command of Sir Allen Young. Aberdeen was
reached on the 20th of August, when the news of their
safety was received with universal feelings of relief,
allaying, as it did, the alarm and uneasiness that had
been felt in England regarding their protracted absence.
The last expedition to which reference will be made
was the one despatched by the United States Govern-
ment in 1 88 1, under the command of Lieutenant Greeley
of the United States army. It had for its object the
establishment of a station in a high latitude, at the
head of Smith Sound, where synchronous meteoro-
logical, magnetical, and other observations of a like
description, might be taken in accordance with a pro-
gramme that had been drawn up by an International
Polar Conference which was held at Hamburg in 1879.
Lieutenant Greeley was also directed to carry out explora-
tion in the direction of the North Pole, as far as was
practicable.
The expedition consisted of twenty-five officers and
men, nearly all of whom were soldiers serving in the
United States army. The party was taken up Smith
Sound in the steamer Proteus, which, without experi-
encing much difficulty from the ice, landed them in Dis-
covery Bay, on the nth of August. The Proteus returned
to America a week after. Two winters were passed by
the members of the expedition in Discovery Bay, during
which time the interior of Grinnell Land was explored,
as also the north-west coast of Greenland, when Lieu-
1884.] SUFFERINGS OF GREELEY'S PARTY. 309
tenant Beaumont's farthest point in 1S76 was passed,
and a position, reported to be in latitude S$° 24', was
reached; they thus had the gratification of reaching
a higher latitude than had ever before been attained,
and of extending our knowledge of the coast of Green-
land to a distance of forty miles in a northerly
direction.
Two expeditions were sent out by the United States
in 1882 and 1883, to effect the relief of Greeley's party,
in accordance with previously arranged plans, but they
unhappily failed in their endeavours to reach them,
one of the vessels being crushed by the ice at the
entrance to Smith Sound. These expeditions were both
commanded by military men !
The second winter having passed without relief coming
to their aid, Greeley decided to work his way south in
search of that succour which was apparently unable
to reach him, and without which, he was well aware,
his party must inevitably perish. Up to this time the
members of the expedition had enjoyed remarkably good
health, and their numbers were still intact. On the 9th
of August 1883 they quitted Discovery Bay, but failed
to get fui-ther south than Cape Sabine, on the west side
of Smith Sound, where they decided to encamp in the
vicinity of the cape. Here a third winter was necessaiily
passed, but in a far different manner to the previous
ones, for they had no other shelter from the severe in-
clemency of the weather than an imperfectly constructed
snow-house, and no other provisions than the little
that remained from the rations brought with them from
Discovery Bay, and those found in the depots that bad
been wisely established along the coasl by Sir (Jeoige
Narea, for his travelling parties in 1876. It was not
310 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [I860-
long before these scanty supplies were exhausted, but,
for some time, they succeeded in keeping themselves
alive, by subsisting on their sealskin clothing, and the
lichens that were gathered from the rocks. Starvation
and hardship, however, gradually reduced the original
number of twenty-five, until by the middle of June only
seven, including Greeley, remained alive. These few were
happily rescued by the expedition that was despatched
in 1884 to search for them, under the command of Cap-
tain Schley of the United States navy, who providen-
tially found them, on the 21st of June, when the few
wretched survivors were literally at death's door. A
delay in their rescue of two or three days would have
been fatal to the whole party— not one would then have
been alive to relate the history of their proceedings and
the appalling sufferings they had endured. With the
exception of the exploration of the interior of Grinnell
Land, and the continuation for some distance of Beau-
mont's exploration of the north-west coast of Greenland,
but little was added to our geographical knowledge of
the Polar regions. The terrible experiences of the sur~
vivors of this expedition fully bear out the necessity
of scrupulously carrying out those useful and prudent
measures that have been invariably adopted by English
navigators when exploring in high latitudes, namely the
practice of establishing depots of provisions along what
may possibly be a retreating route. It also illustrates
the folly of employing inexperienced and ignorant men,
in conducting an expedition that has for its object the
succour of those whose lives are absolutely dependent on
the arrival of relief.
Geographical exploration in the Arctic regions has
now been brought down to date, and it shows us what
1884.] FRANKLINS SUCCESS IN EXPLORATION. 311
a large share Sir John Franklin had in the development
of our knowledge of those regions. The life of Sir John,
as it has been the object of these pages to show, was
essentially one of usefulness and activity. Joining the
navy at an early age, and being passionately fond of the
sea and everything appertaining to a seaman's life, he
quickly acquired the rudiments of his profession, while
his many manly qualities and earnest application to his
studies soon attracted the notice, and earned the appro-
bation, of his superiors. It is not therefore to be won-
dered at that, under these favourable auspices, he rapidly
developed into an able, active, and accomplished young
officer. Not content with the ordinary humdrum routine
of the naval service, he invariably volunteered, when-
ever opportunities offered, for duties of a special and
exceptional nature, and the more arduous and dangerous
they were the more eagerly were they sought for by him.
Adventure and geography are so intimately associated
the one with the other, that it is not surprising to
find that a young officer of Franklin's energy and
daring spirit should, in the course of a few years, blossom
into an ardent and practical geographer. The love of
exploration, especially in unknown regions and over
untrodden paths, was inherent in him, and was in all
probability intensified by his service under Flinders,
and his long and intimate connection with that skilful
and experienced surveyor. But although the southern
hemisphere had its charms, it was the north, and the
fascinating mysteries that surrounded the northern apes
of our globe, that possessed the greatest attractions for
John Franklin. To the exploration of these little known
regions he devoted, as we have endeavoured to show,
much valuable time and energy, and eventually, it may
312 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FKANKLIN. [1860-
truly be said, he laid down his life in his endeavours to
lift the veil that had for so long concealed one of the
secrets of that mysterious portion of the world.
But it is as the discoverer of the north-west passage,
that problem the solution of which had baffled so many
able and daring navigators for the past three hundred
years, and which he sacrificed his life to solve, that his
name must, and always will be, intimately connected.
Franklin and the north-west passage being so closely
associated with each other have become almost synony-
mous terms, for he was, assuredly, the first actual dis-
coverer of that long and diligently sought for channel of
communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans;
he may also very fitly be regarded as having been, in-
directly, the means of discovering other channels that may
very correctly be termed north-west passages, for the dis-
covery of them by Collinson and M'Clure was practically
a corollary of the search that was instituted for him.
To Franklin, therefore, both directly and indirectly, is
due the discovery and exploration of a vast hitherto un-
known region, the result of which has been productive
of much valuable scientific knowledge, more especially in
its relation to geography.
The time that elapsed between the year 1845, w hen
Arctic exploration, after a long interval of inactivity,
was again resumed, until the year 1859, when the little
Fox returned to England with the important announce-
ment relative to the sad fate of the Erebus and Terror,
may reasonably be called the Franklin era ; even before
that time to as far back as 181 8, there was but little
accomplished, in the way of exploring those little known
waters and territories, with which he Avas not, in some
way or other, connected or concerned.
1S34.J CAUSES OF THE ICE BARRIER. 313
The failure of the Erebus and Terror to achieve the
north-west passage was undoubtedly due to the vast
accumulation of heavy pack ice, which was found to
exist across the channel in which the ships were finally
abandoned, and which was of such a nature as to defy
penetration. This agglomeration of ice, which had
originally, in all probability, been formed in that great
unexplored area to the northward and westward of the
Parry Islands, is drifted into Melville Sound along the
north coast of Bank's Land, and is thence carried down
through M'Clintock Channel until it impinges on the
shores of King William Island, thus forming an impene-
trable barrier across the channel. It was, we must infer,
this insurmountable accumulation of ice that stopped
Franklin's ships from proceeding to the south-west, and
it was this same unyielding barrier that successfully defied
the efforts of M'Clure and Collinson, when endeavouring
to push forward from the opposite direction.
Professor Haughton, who is one of our highest
authorities on tidal movements, and especially those
in high latitudes, attributes the accumulation of ice at
this particular spot to the meeting of the Bering's Strait
tide with that of Davis' Strait, the effect of which is
the formation of a " line of still water," in which the
ice remains packed and immovable. The same physical
features were observed in the neighbourhood of tho Bay
of Mercy, whence M'Clure made ineffectual attempts,
during two successive years, to enter Melville Sound
from the west, along the north coast of Bank's Land.
All efforts to penetrate the ice in this locality, either
from the east or from the west, bave resulted in
failure — navigation lias invariably been stopped by
impenetrable masses of ice, remaining practically im
314 LIFE OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. [1860-
movable in a region of still water. This meeting of
two separate and distinct tides serves, in a great mea-
sure, to illustrate the principal physico-geographical
causes of the failure of Parry, Franklin, M'Clure, and
Collinson, and, at a more recent date, of Allen Young,
to successfully accomplish the north-west passage in a
ship. It is extremely improbable that these channels
are permanently blocked by ice. Indeed there is every
reason to believe that there are occasional, perhaps
periodical, seasons when a well-found steamship, under
the command of a skilful and energetic navigator, might
succeed in making the passage ; but, except for the honour
and glory of performing a geographical feat that has
hitherto defied all efforts that have been made to accom-
plish it, the results would be practically barren, for the
channels have already been thoroughly explored by tra-
vellers on foot, and therefore no further useful geogra-
phical information could be obtained, by the mere fact
of a vessel steaming from the Atlantic to the Pacific, or
vice versa, by Bering's Strait and Baffin Bay.
But there is still useful work to be performed in
the Arctic regions, namely, to complete the explora-
tion of that vast Polar area, comprising upwards of a
million and a half square miles, which is at present a
blank space on our charts. In order to carry this out
to a successful issue, our attention and our energies
should be directed towards the little known Franz
Josef Land, for it is in this direction that the greatest
prospect, almost amounting to a certainty, of success
will be obtained, and for the following reasons. It is
nearer to inhabited and civilised countries than other
parts of the Arctic regions, therefore a place to which
a start can be more easily made, and whence retreat
1884.] PROSPECTIVE ARCTIC EXPLORATION. 315
from it, in the event of a catastrophe, for the same
reasons, is practically easy and assured. There is no
reason to fear that any great difficulty will be experi-
enced in reaching its shores ; on the contrary, we have
every reason to infer, from the comparative ease with
which the little Dutch exploring schooner Willem Barents
sighted its coast in 1879, and the absence of any real
difficulty that attended Mr. Leigh Smith's efforts to
visit its shores on the two following years, that a good
steamer, specially designed for ice navigation, would
easily succeed in reaching Eira Harbour, or even Austria
Sound, every year. This being assumed, it is evident that
Franz Josef Land should form the objective, and be
the direction in which future Arctic exploration should
be carried out.
But to ensure useful results it is essential to pass a
winter in that little known land, so that exploration can
be carried out by sledge parties during the spring and
summer. In carrying out this service no danger need
be apprehended from that terrible scourge scurvy, for
animal food, in the shape of bears, walruses, and seals,
is procurable in abundance, and such a measure of success
would assuredly be secured during one travelling season,
as would amply compensate for the expense incurred in
the despatch of an expedition. Let us hope that we
may soon be in a position to record the return of an
English Arctic expedition crowned with laurels gained
in the exploration of Franz Josef Land and beyond !
For such a consummation let all true geographers
devoutly pray We shall then feel that the noble and
gallant Sir John Franklin and his brave shipmates did
not lay down their lives in vain.
INDEX.
Action between Admiral Linois and
Commodore Dance, 65.
Adams, Captain, receives survivors
from Polaris, 286.
Adelaide Peninsula reached by Frank-
lin's people, 231.
Advance sails under Dr. Kane, 256.
Adventure under Captain Cook, 27.
Akaitcho, Indian chief, 125.
Albatrosses found in large numbers
by Flinders, 39.
Alert, sails under Captain Nares, 293;
winters in highest latitude, 294.
Amitie sails for Spitzbergen under
Poole, 83.
Anderson, Mr., sent by Hudson's Bay
Co. to discover news of Franklin, 258.
Antarctic circle crossed by Cook, 27.
expedition under Ross visits Tas-
mania, 1S5.
Arctic discovery, renewal by England
of, 78.
Ocean, Franklin's canoes launched
on, 126; reached by Franklin/second
land journey, 163.
regions, knowledge of, in 1845, 196.
Arctic, whaler, receives crew of Po-
laris, 286.
Arnold, Dr., recommends master for
College, Tasmania, 184.
Assistance sails in search of Franklin,
240-252.
Augustus, Eskimo interpreter with
Franklin, 161.
Austin, Captain, commands search
expedition, 243.
Australia, early discoveries of, 17 ; east
coast of, named New South Wales,
24 ; so named by Flinders, 44.
Austro-Hungarian expedition, 2S7.
Back, Mr. George, accompanies Frank-
lin's first land expedition, 109; his
arduous journey to Fort Chipewyan,
123 ; sets out in search of relief, 134 ;
his sufferings and wonderful jour-
ney, 140 ; promoted to rank of lieu-
tenant, 140 ; with Franklin — second
land journey, 154 ; promoted to com-
mander, 10S ; his expedition in search
316
of the Rosses, 193 ; voyage to Hud-
son's Bay in Terror, 194.
Banks, Sir Joseph, accompanies Cap-
tain Cook, 23 ; advocates exploration
of Australia, 39.
Barents, discovery of Spitzbergen by,
82.
Barren lands, Franklin's journey over
the, 131.
Bain-etto Junior, transport attached to
Franklin, 207.
Barrington, Daines, instigates Polar
exploration, 84.
Barrow, Colonel John, collection of
portraits kindly placed at disposal
of author by, viii. ; Fitzjames's let-
ters to, 204; letter to from Lieu-
tenant Griffiths, 208.
Sir John, promotes research in
high latitudes, 78; refers to Frank-
lin's land journey, 142 ; proposes
plan for further exploration, 200.
Barrow's Strait, named by Captain
Parry, 147.
Bear Lake, exploration of, by Dr.
Richardson, 157.
Beaufort, Sir Francis, advocates re-
newal of Polar research, 200.
Bedford, Franklin joins the, 74.
BeecheyCape, named by Franklin, 164.
Beechey, Captain, his account of Bu-
chan's expedition, 91; in command
of Blossom, note, 154.
Beechey Island, Franklin winters at,
210 ; visited by Fox, 261.
Belcher, Sir Edward, in command of
search expedition, 253 ; orders ships
to be abandoned, 254.
Bell, Mr. James, midshipman, killed
at Copenhagen, 13.
Bellerophon, employed blockading
Brest, 72 ; at Trafalgar, 72.
Bellot, Lieutenant, French navy,
drowned, note, 251.
Bellot Strait, discovered by Kennedy,
251 ; Fox winters at entrance of, 265 ;
Pandora stopped by the ice in, 297.
Bells, peal of, at Spilsby, 3.
Bennett, Mr. Gordon, equips Jean-
nette, 299.
INDEX.
317
Bering's Strait, Captain Cook passes
through, 3u.
Berry, Lieutenant, U.S.N., explores
Wrangel Land, 3ul.
Bessels, Emil, accompanies Hall in
Polaris, 2S1.
Bird, Captain, commands Investigator,
236.
Birds, numerous, seen in Magdalena
Bay, 96.
Bismarck, Cape, named by the Ger-
mans, 281.
Bloody Fall, so named by Hearne, ill.
Blossom, ordered to Bering's Strait, lf>4 ;
boat of, sent to meet Franklin. 164.
Boats, discovery of one of Franklin's,
230,1272 ; special, for Franklin s hind
journey, 15;").
Boat voyage of Captain Flinders, 61.
Booth, Sir Felix, Victory fitted out at
expense of, 177.
Boothia Felix, Franklin sails along
coast of, 215.
Botany Bay, named by Cook, 24.
Bottle-papers, use of, 271.
Bremen, German expedition sails from,
280.
Bridgewater, sails with Porpoise, 54 ;
heartless conduct of captain of, 55.
Briggs, Bear-Admiral, hoists flag in
liainbow, 180.
Browne, Lieutenant, explores Peel
Strait, 244 ; reaches position near
Erebus and Terror, 247.
Buchan, David, Commander, appointed
to command expedition to North
Pole, 81 ; his former services, 89 ; his
instructions, 91 ; remembered by
Franklin, 126.
Burnett, Lieutenant, sent to Hobart
Town as surveyor, 183.
CAIRNS, strange absence of, 248.
Cannibalism, story of supposed, 137.
Carcass, selected for Polar exploration,
84 ; critical situation of, 87.
Carlton House reached by Franklin, 1 21 1.
Carstens sails on a voyage of disco-
very, 20.
Cart used by Parry in exploring, 149.
( astor and Pollux river reached by
Deas and Simpson, 199.
Cato, sails with Porpoise, 54; wreck
of, 65.
Chelyuskin, Cape, rounded by thi
801.
Chipewyan, Fort, Franklin's journej
to, 120.
Clarke, Captain, appointed toDii
29; commands expedition on Cook a
death, 31; attempts the north-east
]■■' ■""
Cloven Cliff, Buchan'i expeditl iff, 98.
Cold, intense, on Franklin's land jour-
ney, 120; experienced by Back, 128;
severe, on M'Clintocks sledging
journey. 286.
College, Franklin attempts to found a,
at Eobari Town, 184.
Collinson, Captain, in command of En-
terprise, 240.
Cook, Captain James, first voj
discovery, 22 ; sails on second voyage,
27 ; reaches 71st degree of south lati-
tude, 28; honours conferred on, 29;
sails ou his third voyage, 29; his
lamentable death, 31.
Cooke, Captain John, in BeUerophon,
72 ; killed at Trafalgar. 73.
Copenhagen, battle of, 12.
Coppermine river, exploration of, by
Hearne, 110; reached by Franklin. 122.
Cracroft, Miss, kind assistance of, viii. ;
parents of, 5; accompanies Sir John
and Lady Franklin to Tasmania, 188.
Cresswell, Lieutenant,' reports disco-
very of north-west passage, 250.
Croker Mountains sailed over by
Parry, 147.
Crosley, Mr., astronomer with Flin-
ders, 40.
Crowe, Mr. C. \\\. Consul at Patras,
his letter to Franklin, 181.
Crown Prince Rudolff Land, named by
Payer, 291.
Crozier, Captain, in command of Terror
in Antarctic expedition, 186; in
Terror with Franklin, 201; aban-
dons Erebus and Terror, 225 ; signs
the last record, 227 ; is cognisant of
the existence of provisions at Fury
beach, 238; silver belonging to,
found, 269; his notations on last
record, 271.
Cumberland, the, relieves party on
Wreck reef. 02 ; Beized by the French
at Mauritius, 68.
Cumberland House, n achi d by Frank-
lin, 117 ; Franklin meets Dr. Bichard-
BOn at, 168.
Current, southerly, experienced by
Parry, 176 ; by B 266 ; by
Hansa, 280; by Polaris, 286.
DALY, Camp, formed bj Schwatka, tn
1 i,. infield Inlet, 29&
Dampier, William, his voyage round
the world, 21 ; In the Roebuck, 22.
Dance, Commodore Nathaniel, sails
from Canton. 64 ; engagi 1 In
honours conferred on, 70.
it:, mi, 1, Captain, communicates with
1 ranklin'a ships,
Dei ■ \ir. attai hi d to Franklin's
ond land expedition, 161 .
\. rlea made by, 199
Death of Ho ■ I Un'i men at
i'„ , 1,. ; , 1 i md 218.
818
INDEX.
De Haven, Lieutenant, U.S.N'., com-
mands search expedition, 243.
De Long, Commander, U.S.N., in com-
mand of Jeannette, 299.
Des Vaux, Mr. Charles F.. accompanies
Graham Gore, 217 ; Fitzjames's de-
scription of, 218.
Discovery, selected for Cook's expedi-
tion, 29 ; sails with Nares, under
Captain Stephenson, 293.
Discovery Bay reached by Greeley, 308.
Distilling apparatus invented by Dr.
Irving, 85.
Dog sledges, Franklin starts with, 119.
Dolphin and Union Strait discovered
and named, 166.
Dorothea, selected for Arctic service,
90 ; severely nipped by the ice, 101 ;
critical position of, 103.
Drift, of Resolute in the pack, 255 ; of
Fox, 262 ; of crew of Hansa on the
ice, 280 ; of crew of Polaris, 285 ; of
Tcgctthoff, 289.
Drummond, Mr., accompanies Frank-
lin as naturalist, 154 ; his indefatiga-
bility, 168.
Duurhen, Dutch ship, discovers Aus-
tralia, 19.
East Indiamen, squadron of, under
Dance, 64.
Eendragt, Dutch ship, on west coast of
Australia, 19.
Eira, her voyage to Franz Josef Land,
305 ; sails from Peterhead, 306.
Elsinore visited by British squadron, 11.
Endeavour, voyage of, 23 ; disaster to,
25 ; name of boat in Parry's Polar
expedition, 176.
Enterprise, commissioned by Sir James
Ross, 236 ; sent out under command
of Collinson, 240 ; name of boat in
Parry's Polar expedition, 176.
Enterprise, Fort, constructed by Frank-
lin, 122 ; party leaves, 124.
Erebus, under Ross in the Antarctic,
186 ; selected for Franklin's expedi-
tion, 201 ; frozen in the pack, 215 ;
abandoned, 225.
Eskimos, massacre of, by Indians, 111 ;
met by Franklin, 162 ; information
obtained from, regarding Franklin,
232, 266, 26S.
Expedition of Sir John Franklin sails
from England, 203.
Fairhavkn, Spitsbergen, Buchan ar-
rives at, 99.
Fairholme, Lieut, letter from, 207; silver
belonging to,foundbyM'Clintock, 269.
Felix sails under Sir John Ross, 253.
Fire-hole, explanation of, note, 211.
Fisher, Mr., astronomer to Buchan, 93.
Fitzjames, Commander, appointed to
Erebus, 201 ; extracts from letters
of, 204 ; his admiration for Franklin,
205 ; signs the last record, 227 ; nota-
tions on record made by, 271.
Flag unfurled by Franklin on the Polar
Sea, 158.
Kigely, Cape, named by Payer, 292.
Flinders, Matthew, commands Inves-
tigator, 14 ; his love of geography,
35 ; exploration in Australia, 35 ;
sails in Investigator, 40; his charts
criticised by French captain, 48 ;
sails from Australia in Porpoise, 53 ;
wrecked in Porpoise, 55 ; his won-
derful boat voyage, 60 ; takes passage
in Cumberland, 62 ; made prisoner
by the French, 63; his death, 63;
remembered by Franklin, 126.
Forks, silver, found, belonging to
Franklin, 257.
Forsyth, Commander, in command of
Prince Albert, 243.
Forth, Franklin appointed first lieu-
tenant of, 77.
Fowler, Lieutenant, in command of
Porpoise, 54 ; embarks in Holla, 63 ;
appointed to Earl Camden, 64.
Fox, fitted out by Lady Franklin, 261 ;
her drift in the pack, 262 ; winters in
Port Kennedy, 265 ; sails for Eng-
land, 273.
Franklin, family of, settled at Spilsby,3.
Henrietta, sister of John, 5.
Isabella, married Mr. Cracroft, 5.
James, major in Indian army, 5.
John, his birth, 5 ; love of the
sea, 8 ; makes a voyage to Lisbon, 9 ;
enters the navy, 10 ; at Copenhagen,
12 ; joins Investigator, 14 ; sails with
Flinders, 43 ; discoveries named
after, 46 ; discharged to Porpoise,
53 ; wrecked in Porpoise, 55 ; reaches
Canton, appointed to Earl Camden,
64 ; assists at' the defeat of Linois,
69 ; appointed to Bellerophon, 71 ; at
the battle of Trafalgar, 73 ; joins the
Bedford, 74; is wounded at the attack
on New Orleans, 76 ; first lieutenant
of the Forth, 77 ; appointed second
in command of North Polar expedi-
tion, 81 ; his first land journey, 109 ;
narrowly escapes shipwreck in Hud-
son's Strait, 114 ; nearly loses his life
by drowning, 118; his remarkable
journey, 129 ; narrow escape from
drowning, 132 ; dreadful sufferings
experienced by, 136 ; promoted to
commander, 140 ; arrival in England
and promotion to rank of captain,
141 ; his marriage, 144 ; appointed
to second land expedition, 154 ; hears
of the death of his wife, 155 ; his
journey on the Polar Ocean, 162 ;
return to England, honours conferred
INDEX.
310
on, 171 ; marries Miss Jane Griffin,
l~-i ; advocates Bearch for north-west
passage by Bering's Strait, 17:;; in
command of Rainbow, 17m honours
conferred on, for services in Greece,
180 ; appointed Governor of Van
Diemen's Land, 1S3 ; dissensions
with officials, 1S9 ; relieved by Sir
Eardley Wilmot, 190; appointed to
command Arctic expedition, 200 ;
sails from England, 203 ; his last
official despatch, 208 ; his death. 221 1 ;
anxiety in England respecting, 235;
first traces of, discovered, 244 ; monu-
ment to, at Beechey Island, 263 ; sil-
ver pieces belonging t> i, found, 269 ;
statues erected to menu ry of. 274-
276 ; promoted rear-admiral, 277.
Franklin, Lady, offers reward for news
of 1( tst expedition, 239 ; equips Prince
Albert, 243; sends out Isabel, 251 ;
protests against the payment of re-
ward to Dr. Rae, 259"; Fox fitted
out at expense of, 260; Royal Geo-
graphical medal awarded to, 275;
death of, 276.
Mrs., death of, 155.
■ Thomas Adams, death of, 74.
Willingham, brother of John, 4.
Franz Josef Land, discovery of, by the
Austrians, 288 ; visited by Leigh
Smith, 305-307.
Funeral of Sir John Franklin, 221.
Furneaui, Captain commands Advert-
ture in Cook's second voyage, 27.
Fury, in Parry's second voyage, 150;
wreck of, 174.
Fury beach, named by Parry, 174 ;
winter passed at, by the Rosses, 178.
GBLL, Rev. J. P., sent to Tasmania
for College, 184; marries daughter
of Sir John Franklin note, 184.
German expedition to east coast of
Greenland. 280.
Germania sails from Bremen, 280.
Glaciers, icebergs formed from, do.
Goldner, his rascality, note, 245.
Goodsir, Dr., appointed naturalist to
Franklin's last expedition, 202.
Gore, Lieutenant Graham, explores
King William Island. 217; litzjames'
description of, 218 ; his death, 224.
Graves of Franklin's men, discovery • >f ,
233, 245.
Graves, Rear-Admiral, hoists his flag
on board Polyphernus, 11; Invested
with the Bath 13.
Great Barrier Reef, examination of,
by Flinders, 51.
Great l i h tan i survivors from Ere-
tin and Terror start for the,
Lit nt. nanl U.S.A., his ex-
pedition to smith B id, 308.
••Green-stockings." poem written by
-Mi.->s Pordeu, 14."».
Griffin, Jane, married to Sir John
Franklin, 172.
Griffin r. nit, innul l j franklin i>.
Griffiths Island, ships winter at, J4l.
ditliths. Lieutenant, writes to Mr.
Barrow, 207.
Grinnell, Mr. Henry, equips search
expedition, 243; fits out schooner
Advance, 256.
Grinnell Land, explored by N'ares, 295 ;
exploration of, by Greeley, 308.
Griper, commanded by Lieutenant
Liddon, 1S19, 10S ; sails from Eng-
land, 146.
HADDINGTON, Lord, First Lord of the
Admiralty, 200.
Hall, Captain, his various expeditions,
281.
Hans. Eskimo, sails with Hall in
I : is. 281.
Hansa sails from Bremen, 280.
Hartog, Dirk, his discoveries in Aus-
tralia, 19.
Haughton, Professor, theory of, re-
garding ice-barrier.-. 318.
nawai discovered by Captain Cook, 31.
Hayes, Dr., his voyage to Smith Sound,
278.
Hearne, Mr., his discoveries, 110; ac-
curacy of his observations. 126.
Hecla, sails under Parry to discover
north-west passage, 146; Parry ap-
pointed to, in second expedition.
150; in Parry's third voyage, 174;
commanded by Parry in 1827, 176.
Hecla and Fury Strait visited by Hall,
282.
Hcgemann, Captain, in command of
Hansa, 280.
Hepburn, John, with Franklin in first
land expedition, loo ; in Prince
Albert, note, 251.
Herald under Captain Kellett, 237.
BerscheL, Cape, record left at. by Lieu-
tenant Gore, 2is ; reached by bid
vivors from Erebus and Terror, 230 ;
skeleton found near, 231 270.
Hicks, Lieut., point named after, 24.
Hobart Pacha at Louth Grammar-
school. 8.
Hobart Town, arrival of Franklin at,
regi 1 1 fell by people of, on
Franklin's departure, 191 ; rotes sum
Of money for relief of Franklin, in.
Hobson, Lieutenant, sails in Fox with
M'Clintoi k. 261 ; starts on
join ii, y, 267.
Ei od Mr. Robert, appointed to Frank-
lin b ftrsl land expedition, 109 ; rlvi t
named after, 129; illness of, i M ;
murder of, 137.
320
INDEX.
Hope brings home Leigh Smith and
crew of Eira, 308.
Hopewell sails from Gravesend, 81.
Hornby, Mr. Frederick, sextant of,
fouad, 273.
Hotliam, Admiral, death of, ISO ; his
letter to Franklin, 181.
Howe, Cape, named by Cook, 24.
Hudson's Bay,Back's expedition to, 194.
Hudson's Bay Company, arrangements
with, for Franklin's second land
journey, 155 ; instructions sent to,
relative to search for Franklin, 236 ;
search expedition equipped at ex-
pense of, 243 ; Mr. Anderson sent
out by, 258.
Hudson, Henry, his daring voyage, 81.
Hunter, Captain, appointed Governor
of New South Wales, 33.
Hurd, Cape, reached by Ross's travel-
ling parties, 237.
Ice, Captain Cook stopped by, in Ant-
arctic, 28; in Greenland and Spitz-
bergeu seas, 79 ; heavy, encountered
by Phipps, 86 ; Buchau's ships beset
in, 98; belt of impenetrable, off
Spitzbergen, 106; Franklin's vessels
caught in the, 215 ; barriers of, how
formed, 313.
Icebergs, formed from glaciers, 96 ;
danger from the formation of, 96.
Indians, kindness and attention of, 139.
Inglefleld, Commander, sails in Isabel,
252.
Inman, Professor, with Captain Flin-
ders, 40.
Instruments, scientific, supplied to
Franklin, 112.
Intrepid in Austin's expedition, 240.
Investigator commissioned for service
in Australia, 14 ; sails under Flinders,
43 ; her unseaworthy condition, 44 ;
meets French ship Le Geographe, 48 ;
her rotten state, 51 ; condemned
at Sydney, 52 ; Captain Bird ap-
pointed to command of, 236 ; sent
out under M'Clure, 240 ; successful
voyage of, 249.
Irving, Dr. , his distilling apparatus, 85.
Lieutenant, discovers record left
by Graham Gore, 227.
Isabel sails under Inglefleld, 252.
Isabella, Boss rescued by the, 178.
Isbjom, cruise of the, 287.
Jeannctte, fitted out by Gordon Ben-
nett, 299 ; news received of her loss,
300.
Kane, Dr. Elisha, in command of
Advance, 255.
Kangaroos first seen, 26.
Karakakooa Bay, Cook arrives at, 31.
Kay, Mr., marries Mrs. Franklin's
sister, 145 ; with Franklin in Ra in-
bow, 179 ; in charge of Observatory
at Hobart Town, 187.
Kellett, Captain, sent in Herald to
Bering's Strait, 237 ; appointed to
Resolute, 253 ; winters at Dealy
Island, 264.
Kendall, Mr., forms one of Franklin's
second land expedition, 154.
Kennedy, Mr., in command of Prince
Albert, 251.
Kennedy, Port, Fox winters at, 265.
Kingsmill, Rear-Admiral, on board
Polyphemus, 10.
King William Island, seen by Frank-
lin's people, 217 ; one of Franklin's
ships supposed to be wrecked on,
232 ; explored by M'Clintock and
Hobson, 267 ; record found on, 270 ;
visited by Hall, 282.
Koldewey, Captain, his expedition to
east coast of Greenland, 280.
Kotzebue Inlet, Blossom ordered to,
154 ; Plover directed to winter in, 240.
Latitude, reward offered for reaching
a high, 80; Alert reaches highest,
294 ; highest reached by Nares's ex-
pedition, 296.
Lawford, John, appointed captain of
Polyphemus, 10 ; group of islands
named after, 126.
Leewin, Cape, discovered and named, 2C
Legislative Council, admission of pub
lie to, in Van Diemen's Land, 183.
Lena river, Vega passes mouth of, 302.
Leopold, Port, Ross winters at, 237;
visited by M'Clintock in Fox, 264.
Liddon, Lieutenant, second in com-
mand to Parry, 1819, 10S-146.
Linois, Admiral, engagement with
Dance, 65.
Lockyer, Nicholas, Captain, commands
boat attack at New Orleans, 76.
Loring, Captain, of Rcllerophon, 71.
Louth Grammar-school, 6 ; seal of, 7.
Lumsdaine, George, captain of Poly-
phemus, 10.
Lutwidge, Captain, second in command
with Phipps, 84 ; promoted to cap-
tain, 88.
Lyon, Captain, in command of Griper,
150.
Israel, astronomer with Phipps, 85.
Mackenzie, Mr., his journey to the
Polar Sea, 110 ; accuracy of his sur-
vey, 158.
Mackenzie River, exploration of, by
Franklin, 157 ; ascended by Lieu-
tenant Pullen, 244.
M'Clintock, Sir Leopold, information
collected by, 231 ; his journey to
INDEX.
321
Cape Coalman, 238; reaches Melville
Island, 247 ; in command i
i cpl i - Melville and Prince
Patrick Islands, 2.:>4 ; sails in
261; his sledging journeys, 265-267;
results of his voyage in Fox, 274 ;
rewards conferred on, -27r>.
M'Clure, Sir Robert, in command ot In-
vestigator, 240; accomplishes north-
west passage, 248.
M'Donald, Dr., medal found belong-
ing to, 266; silver found. 269.
Magdalena Bav. survey of, by Buchan,
95.
Magnetic attraction of needle observed
bj Parry, 147.
Magnetic Pole, discovery of, by Ross, i
148.
Markhonse, Mr., stops leak in En-
deavour, 26.
Marquesas Islands, discovery of, 18.
yacht, accompanies Sir John
Ross, 24::.
Massacre of Eskimos by Indians, ill.
of Franklin's party by Eskimos
frustrated, 162; by Indians pre-
vented. 165.
Mecham, Lieutenant, discovers Russell
Island, 247.
Melville Bay, Franklin's ships last seen
in, 209.
Memorial to Lord Palmerston, 250.
Mendana, discoveries of, in southern
hemispheri
Money, Rowland, Captain, wounded
at New Orleans, 7o.
Montreal Island, relics of Franklin
found at, 231; examined by M'Clin-
tock, 269.
Monument to Franklin on Beechey
Island. 263.
Moore, Captain, sent to Bering's Strait
in Plover, 237.
Moose Deer Island. Franklin winters
at, 141.
Moreton sails with flail in Polaris,28l.
Mnrchison, sir Roderick, advocates
renewal of Polar research, 200.
Musquitoes, Bufferings endured from
attacks of, 121 ; Franklin's party per-
secuted by, 125, 163.
Musk oxen, plentiful supply of, 125.
N'ARES, Captain, selected to command
Arctic expedition, 293.
Natives of Australia, conflict with, 61.
Nelson, Lord, at Copenhagen, 12;
midshipman in Phipps's expedition,
.\> m Behrides, named by Capital
New Orleans, Franklin wounded at the
attack on
nth Wales, formation of 1
of, 82.
New Zealand, Cooh arrives at. 23.
Nordenski Id
t" Spitzbi ; _
achieves north-east ;
surveying under Base
Flinders, 38.
Norfolk Island discovered by< 1
North-east passage. Cook attempts to
ver the, 29; accomplished by
Nordenskidld, 304
North Pole, expedition to, determined
on, 79; reward offered for reaching,
80; Buchan commands expedition
to, 81; Hudson's voyage to, Bl ;
Phipps's expedition to, S4 ; Bucl
attempt to reach the,
plan to reach the, 176.
Northumberland Sound. Belcher win-
ters in, 254.
North-west passage, expedition to dis-
cover, 79; Parrysent to search for,
107; Parry's belief in the exist
of, 153; interest in discovery of. re-
vived, 195; franklin appoint
command expedition in search of,
200; discovery Of, ascertained by
Graham Qoi
NovayaZemlyi if, 287.
Nuyts' Land, visited bj Flindei -
, Peter, discovers south coa
Australia, 20.
OGLE Point reached by M'Clintock,
269.
Ommaney. Captain, second in
maud to Au.-tin, 243; di-
tracea of Franklin, 244.
(Mine, Dr., head • master of Louth
grammar-school, 6.
. Shi lard, alludes to Franklin -
treatment in Van Diemen's Land,
191 ; remarks by, on the death of
franklin, 220; his Bledge Journey to
Prince 01 Wales's Land, 217 ; in com-
mand of Pioneer,
Oxford, degree of D.C.L. of, conferred
on Franklin, 172.
Pack, Dorothea and Trent take 1
in t:
Palander, Lieutenant, commands the
1 . 1
I under Allen S"0U1
Paris 1 h ogi aphical 3oi li ■:■ -
awarded to Franklin, 171.
Parry, Blr Edward, with Bom in 1818,
appointed t" command exp< dl-
tion, 1819, 107 ; sails from Ei
1 16 id for ri
until meridian, 148; promote d i"
commandi r, 160; command ■
Hon to Bud
X
322
INDEX.
to captain, 153 ; his belief in a north-
west passage, 153 ; third expedition
in search of a passage, 174 ; expedi-
tion towards North Pole, 176 ; advo-
cates renewal of Polar research, 200.
Payer, Julius, sails with Weyprecht,2s7.
Peabody, Mr., assists in equipment of
Advance, 256.
Pearce, Mr. Stephen, portraits painted
by, viii.
Peel Strait, Franklin enters, 214 ; Allen
Young attempts to pass through, 297.
Pendulum supplied to Captain Buchan,
93.
Pendulum Islands, Germania winters
at the, 281.
Penny, Captain, assists in search for
Franklin, 243 ; discovers graves on
Beechey Island, 245.
Petermann Land, named by Payer, 290.
Petropaulowski visited by Captain
Gierke, 32.
Pfeiifer river, graves of white men
near the, 233.
Phillip, Captain Arthur, first governor
of New South Wales, 32.
Phillip, Port, discovery and examina-
tion of, 48.
Phipps, Captain, his expedition to the
North Pole, 84.
Phoenix, brings home crew of Investi-
gator, 249; conveys officers and crews
of Belcher's expedition to England,
255.
Pioneer, one of the ships in Austin's
expedition, 240.
Plover, sent to Bering's Strait, 237 ;
ordered to winter in Kotzebue Sound,
240.
Polar research, renewal of, advocated,
200.
Polaris sails from New York under
Hall, 281.
Polyphemus, Franklin joins the, 10;
sails for the Baltic, 11 ; at the battle
of Copenhagen, 12.
Poole, Jonas, his voyages, 83.
Porden, Miss Eleanor, Franklin's intro-
duction to, 127 ; islands named after,
127 ; is married to Captain Franklin,
144 ; her poems, 144.
Porpoise, sails from Sydney, 54 ; wreck
of, 55.
Portage round Trout Falls, 119.
Poverty Bay, named by Captain Cook,
23.
Prince Albert, sails with Forsyth, 243 ;
returns to England with news of
Franklin, 248.
Prince of Wales, sails from Gravesend,
113 ; enters Hudson's Strait, 114 ;
whaler, the last ship to communi-
cate with the Franklin expedition,
209.
Prince Regent Inlet, named by Captain
Parry, 147.
Proteus sent up with Greeley, 308.
Providence Fort, Franklin's arrival at,
121 ; reached by Franklin after first
land journey, 139.
Provisions sent to meet Franklin's
party, 236.
Pullen, Captain, winters at Beechey
Island, 254.
Lieutenant, boat journey made by,
244.
Pulo Aor, Dance's engagement with
Linois off, 65.
QUIROS, his discoveries, 18.
Racehorse, selected for Polar explora-
tion, 84 ; critical situation of, 87.
Rae, Dr., information obtained by, 231 ;
accompanies Sir John Richardson,
237 ; explores neighbourhood of Cop.
pennine River, 244 ; obtains articles
from the Eskimos belonging to
Franklin, 257 ; is paid reward for
ascertaining fate of Franklin, 258.
Rainbow, Franklin appointed to com-
mand, 178.
Ravenscraig , whaler, rescues men from
Polaris, 286.
Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, Hornby's
sextant given to, 273.
Record, left by Graham Gore at Cape
Herschel, 218 ; found by Lieutenant
Irving, 227 ; Investigator's, found at
Melville Island, 254 ; discovered by
Hobson, 270.
Reindeer at Spitzbergen, 99 ; large
herds seen near Fort Enterprise, 122.
Reliance, arrival of, at Sydney, 34 ;
returns to England, 39 ; boat built
by Franklin, 161.
Relics of Franklin found at Montreal
Islands, 231; brought home by Rae,
257 ; found by M'Clintock, 206.
Rensselaer Bay, Kane winters at, 257.
Resolute, under Captain Austin, 240 ;
winters at Dealy Island, 254 ; her
wonderful drift in the ice, 255.
Resolution, in Cook's second voyage,
27 ; Cook's ship in third voyage, 29.
Results of voyage of Fox, 274.
Rewards, offered for discovery in high
latitudes, 80 ; offered by Franklin for
game, 132 ; Parry obtains the, f< >r
crossing the 110th meridian, 148 ;
offered for information relative to
Franklin, 236 ; for assistance to Sir
J. Franklin, 239; paid to M'Clure
for discovery of north-west passage,
249; paid to Dr. Rae, 258; paid to
M'Clintock, 274.
Richardson, Sir John, associated with
Franklin, 109 ; nearly loses his life,
INDEX.
323
133 ; his account of the murder of
II od,137;ac ompanies Franklin on
second land journey, 154 ; his suc-
cessful journey, 165 ; his eulogistic
remarks on Franklin, 106; Bent in
search of Franklin, '237 ; returns to
England. 2
Rocky Mountains, Franklin's first view
of, 15(5.
Ro ters sent in search of Jeannette,
301.
Holla sails for Wreck reef, 62 ; reaches
Canton, 64.
Ross, James, discovers North .Magnetic
Pole, 148-177; with Parry in North
Pole expedition, 176; in Victory with
Sir John Ross, 177 ; commands Ant-
arctic expedition, 1S5; selected to
command search expedition, 236;
his unexpected return to England,
239.
Sir John, commands Arctic expe-
dition, ISIS, 80; names the Croker
Mountains, 147 ; sails in the Victory,
177 ; in schooner Felix, 243.
SABINE, Captain, advocates renewal < if
Polar research, 200.
Sail, thrummed, used by Captain Cook,
26.
Sandwich, Lord, visits Arctic ships, 85.
Santa Cruz islands, discovery of, 18.
Savage islands reached by Franklin,
115.
Schley, Captain, rescues Greeley, 310.
School established by Franklin in win-
ter quarters, 161.
Schwatka, Lieutenant, information ob-
tained by, 231 ; his journey to King
William Island, 298.
Scientific society founded by Franklin
at Hobart Town, 185.
Scoresby, Captain, his arguments in
favour of Polar research, 79; visits
east coast of Greenland, S3.
Screw steamers first used in the ice,
203.
Scurvy, outbreak of, in Investigator,
52 ; Franklin's party predisposed to,
125; Nares's expedition attacked by,
296.
large number seen by Flinders,
38.
i expeditions, despatch of, 243.
Separation of survivors from Franklin's
snipe
Sextant belonging to .Mr. Hornbj
ajv< ii t" Lieutenant Etawson, '273.
Silver plate found belonging to Frank-
lin expedition, 208.
Simpson, Mr., survey <>f north coa
America by, 19 '.
ti ii found mar <'ii]
231, 270.
slave Lake. Franklin reach
Sledge parties, leave En bus and Terror,
226; organised by Captain Austin,
245 ; leave the Fox, 265 ; leave the
'I. retthoff, 291.
Smith. Mr. Leigh, expeditions to Spits-
bergen, 279; first voyage to Franz
Josef Land, 305; honours conferred
on, 306; second voyage to Franz
Josef Land, 307.
Smith Sound, Kane's exploration of,
256 ; voyage of Hayes to, 27S.
Snodgrass, Colonel, relieved by Sir
John Franklin, 183.
Society, scientific, founded by Franklin
in Hobart Town, 185.
Solander, Dr., accompanies Cook as
botanist. 23.
Solomon Islands, discovery of, 18.
' reaches a high latitude, 279.
Spilsby, situation of, l ; birthplace oi
Franklin, 5 ; statue of Franklin at,
277.
Spitzbergen, discovery of, by Barents,
82 ; visited by Hudson, 82 ; descrip-
tion by Phipps of coast of, S6 ; in-
hospitable appearance of, 95; Nor-
denskiold's expeditions to, 279.
Spoons, silver, found, belonging to
Franklin's expedition, 257.
Stanley, Dean, adds note to epitaph
on Franklin's monument, 277.
Lord, refers to discovery of north-
west passage, 249.
Owen, mate in Rainbow, 179.
Starvation, deaths due to, in Franklin's
first land journey, 1 38.
Starvation Cove, remains of white men
found at, 233.
Statue of Franklin, 276.
Steam first used in the Arctic Regions,
177.
Stephenson, Captain, winters in Dis-
covery Bay, 294.
Stewart, Captain, assists in search for
Franklin, 243.
Swans, black, first seen, 22.
Swedes, expeditions to Spitzbergen by,
279.
Talbot brings home crews of Belcher's
ships, 255.
Tasruan, discoveries of, 20.
Taylor, Mr., midshipman, is drowni d,
46.
Tegetthoff, sails from Bremerhaven,
287; abandoned in tie lei
T< mperature, low , expi rienced bj
Back, 123.
rennyBon, Alfred, educated :d Louth
grammar-school, 8; writes epitaph
on Franklin's monument, '277.
i toil mi on's Bay under
Hack. 186-195 ; with EtOC in lie' \nl
324
INDEX.
arctic, 186 ; selected for Franklin's
expedition, 201 ; frozen in the pack,
215 ; abandoned, 225.
Thistle, Mr., master of Investigator,
drowned, 46.
Thrummed sail, use of, 26.
Tigress rescues survivors from Polaris,
285.
Tom Thumb, equipment of the, 35 ;
perilous position of the, 36.
Torres, his discoveries, 18.
Traces of Franklin iirst discovered, 244.
Trafalgar, Battle of, 73.
Trent, Franklin appointed to com-
mand of, 90 ; springs a leak, 93 ; leak
discovered and stopped, 99 ; squeezed
in the pack, 101 ; seriously damaged
by the ice, 104.
Tripe de roche used as food by Frank-
lin's party, 131.
Trout Falls, portage round, 119.
Turnagain, Point, reached by Frank-
lin, 128.
Tyson, Captain, his drift on the floe,
284.
United i States, assist in search for
Franklin, 243 ; Resolute presented by
Government of, 255 ; Greeley sent out
by, 308.
United States sails under command of
Hayes, 278.
Van Diemen's Land, discovery of,
20 ; Franklin appointed Governor of,
183.
Vega, sails from Gothenburg, 301 ; ac-
complishes north-east passage, 304.
Veils, the, poem by Miss Porden, 144.
Venus, transit of, observed by Cook, 23.
Victory, sails under Sir [John Ross,
177 ; frozen up and abandoned, 178.
Victory Point, reached by survivors of
Erebus and Terror, 226 ; boat found
fifty miles from, 230; record found
near, 270.
Vlaming, William de, visits Australia,
22.
Voyageurs, Canadian, in Franklin's
land expedition, 121.
Wager River, Back ordered to pro-
ceed to the, 194.
Walker, Cape, Franklin directs his
course towards, 214.
Walker, Dr., joins Fox as naturalist
and surgeon, 261.
Waterloo Place, statue of Franklin
erected in, 275.
Wellington Channel discovered by
Parry, 148 ; ascended by Franklin's
ships, 209.
Wentzell, Mr., joins Franklin, 121.
Westall, William, painter, with Flin-
ders, 40 ; original sketches of, in
Colonial Institute, 60.
Westminster Abbey, statue of Frank-
lin in, 276.
Weyprecht, Captain, in command of
Tegetthoff, 287.
Whaleflsh Islands reached by Erebus
and Terror, 207.
Whalers, favourable report of the ice
by, 79.
Whaling captains, rewards offered to,
for exploration, 80.
Whitewood, Mr., master's mate of In-
vestigator, wounded by the natives,
51.
Willoughby Chapel, tombs in, at Spils-
by, 2.
Wilniot, Sir Eardley, succeeds Franklin
as governor, 190.
Winter, Franklin spends, at Great Bear
Lake, 160.
Winter Harbour reached by Parry, 148.
Winter Lake visited by Franklin, 121.
Wollaston Land discovered, 166.
Wolstenholme Sound, North Star win-
ters in, 239.
Wrangel Land, Jeannette seen off, 299 ;
explored by Lieutenant Berry, 301.
Wreck, of brig, sighted by Rainbow,
179 ; of Eira, 307 ; of Erebus and
Terror seen by the Eskimos, 269 ; of
Hansa, 280 ; of Porpoise, 55.
Yellow Knife River reached by
Franklin, 121.
York boats, description of, 116.
York Factory, Franklin arrives at, 1S19,
116 ; journey by editor to Norway
House from, note, 117 ; Franklin
-reaches, after first land expedition,
141.
Young, Allen, sails in Fox with M'Clin-
tock, 266; starts on his sledging
journey, 267 ; his attempt to accom-
plish the north-west passage in Pan-
dora, 296.
Nicholas, sights New Zealand, 23.
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travellers." — St. Stephen's Review.
"This work is the handsomest and most important book of travels
of the season." — Meinchester Examiner.
"A most fascinating and instructive story of adventure and explora-
tion." — Liverpool Post.
LONDON AND LIVERPOOL : GEORGE PHIL1R & SON.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
Los Angeles
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.
£ OCT & &1984
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REC D LI
*&UG 1 3 1987
AUG 1 3 1
R £CB tO-WS
221988
Form L9— Series ! 14
3 1
58 00964 2363
G
660
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