UC-NRLF i ► ^ Nine Motorboats AND How TO Build Them Second Edition A Book of Complete Building Plans and Instruction, which contains all necessary informa- tion for the amateur who wants to build his own boat. NEW YORK THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING COMPANY iio-iia WEST 40th STREET ^/;^^5^ o> -K"' Copyright, 191 3- by THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING COMPANY New York, N. Y. ■ c ^ 9 CONTENTS Page . . 7-15 "Pop Gun"— A 20-Foot Runabout Designed by C. G. Davis A 25-Foot Cruiser Designed by Frederic S. Nock .... . . 16-36 A Single Step Hydroplane Designed by George F. Crouch .... . . 37-47 "Sunfish"— A 32-Foot Day Cruiser Designed by C. G. Davis . . 48-60 "Mollyhawk"— A 28-Foot Cruiser Designed by C. G. Davis . . 61-74 "Beaver" — A 23-Foot Cruiser Designed by C. G. Davis . . 75-92 A 25-Foot Runabout Designed by Frederic S. Nock .... . . 93-109 A Dead Rise Runabout Designed by A. M. Keys . . 110-113 A Light-Draft Stern-Wheel Boat Designed by C. G. Davis . . 113-119 e ^ ^ !> 268523 *' Pop-Gun " — ^A Twenty-Foot Runabout DESIGNED BY C. G. DAVIS THIS little runabout, named Pop-Gun by one who saw a model of her, is a 20-footer of such simple con- struction that anyone can undertake her construc- tion with certainty of success — that is, anyone who knows enough of the use of tools to build a box. All that is needed is a knowledge of how to use a saw, how to plane the edge of a board straight, and how to nail lumber to- gether. There are very few curved cuts to be made, and nearly every cut is along a straight line that may be snapped with a chalk-line or drawn with a straight edge. In fact, the designing of a boat like this is the hardest part, and that is done. Simplicity in every feature has, of course, been the leading object in designing Pop-Gun, but simplicity is quite possible in a very good little runabout, and Pop- Gun will prove a handy, serviceable, sturdy boat that will carry several people easily, and travel along at about eight miles an hour with a 3-hp. mot6r. The construction of a round-bottomed boat requires considerable skill other than that necessary to use the tools. The shaping of each frame and plank is quite an art; but in this boat the construction is so simple that anyone should succeed in producing a good boat. We will take each piece of wood in turn and tell you just how to shape it. First come the three patterns, or molds, that give you the desired shape. These are shown clearly and with all the necessary dimensions marked on them for repro- ducing them full size. A large sheet of brown wrapping paper will do if a clean board floor is not available to draw them on. Take the shape of the middle mold, No. 2, for exam- ple. Draw a straight line horizontally across the paper or floor and with a large, steel carpenter's square draw a center line, which we show here dotted at right angles to it. Each side of this center line measure off 2 feet 4>^ inches, which represents the width of the boat at the deck to the inside of the planking. Eighteen and one- quarter inches below this — the distance given in the plans of the molds — draw another horizontal line and measure f out two feet each side^— that distance, i8j4 inches, repre- sents the vertical depth of the side plank, which of course, if measured on the angle will be a fraction longer; 19 ■finches it really is. Four and three-quarter inches below the second line draw another short one representing the keel and measure out three inches each side, the keel being six inches wide. By drawing lines connecting these spots you have the outline of the mold. The- others are found in exactly the same way, using the distances marked on the plans. Wooden patterns have to be made of these three molds so that when properly spaced and set up the planks forming the boat can be bent around them. This causes quite a little strain to come on the molds, so do not build them so flimsily that they will give or break under the strain, and cause your boat to be built crooked. in Figure I I have .shown one method of putting to- gether a mold, and in Figures 2 and 3 other ways are shown. It matters little which way you build them: the f/i, f ransom anef kee/ are a/Zrea^y: a ^/ra/4-inch brass screws to the stem and tran- som. To make a neat job the heads of the nails or screws should be counter-sunk about J4 or 3-16 of an inch and the hole either filled with putty or a wooden plug. The lower edge of the side plank must have an oak batten along its edge to give a greater nailing surface for the bottom boards. To put this batten in, saw a notch out of the corner of the molds and then bend -in the bat- ten, which should be of oak about ^-inch thick and 2J4 inches wide. Either rivet this to the edge of the side- plank or screw it fast from the inside, letting the edge- e-xtend down far enough so that it can be beveled off to take the bottom boards, just as the re-enforcement for the transom was put on. FIG- 13. 7^e ^cz/o/^r/d ^ ai/(^er /i: > » ■ .^g^ k4jen you sfr/ke. a ie//a^e /:>/ac&^ on you want two strips of oak — yellow pine will do if oak is hard to get — I "4 inches thick, 3 inches wide and 20 feet long. Nail these fast to each of the frames so that the upper edge is about ij^ inches below the level of the edge of the side planks. If there were no round or crown, as it is called, to the deck beams, which are 2 inches deep and I inch thick, this shelf would be put just 2 inches below the side line, but to allow for the arch-up of the deckbeam, which is about J/2 inch at the inner edge of the frames, the shelf is raised that' much so the underside of the deck beam will rest on it and the top of the deck beam will come even with the top of the side plank and not half an inch or so below it, as in Fig- ure 19. To get out the oak deck beams you must first make a pattern of the curve wanted. A flat deck made of straight deck beams spoils the looks of any boat. In your haste, to get the boat done do not be tempted to use flat deck beams. I have shown a crown of 2j^ inches in 5 feet on the plans. You can sweep such a curve by taking a batten 15 feet long, drive a brad through one end as a pivot and hold a pencil at other end as you sweep an arc of a circle on the floor or on a thin board you are going to cut as a pattern. The measurements of such a curve are given in Figure 20. With this pattern you can mark out as many beams as you want and saw them out by hand with a rip-saw, planing them up smooth afterwards. If you have no cir- cle plane to go around on the inside of the curve, clean it with a spoke shave. Get out two beams of ij^ inches in thickness, one to go across at the forward end of the 14 cockpit and one at the after end. The first is fitted in alongside of the third frame from the stem, the other at the second frame from the stern. In the general construction plan one style of deck fram- ing is shown that requires considerable cutting and fitting, bu^ a far more simple way is illustrated in Figure 21. The sill piece is of i^-inch wide by 2 inches deep oak or yellow pine— oak if the beams are to be jogged into it, yellow pine will do if not. In Figure 21 there is no cut- ting to do; the sill piece is bent parallel with the side of the boat one foot in from the outer edge and riveted to the underside of two beams forward and two aft. Brace it up temporarily until all the short beams are cut and riveted into their places, as shown on the plans. Then fit one permanent brace, about midway of its length, and fasten it to a crossfloor below to stiffen the deck, should anyone sit on it along the sides. Nail the beams down into the shelf with 3-inch gal- vanized wire nails. Fit a V-shaped block of oak across from side to side away up in the extreme bow, resting on top of the shelves and butting against the after side of the stem, thick enough (about 2>4 inches) to allow you to cut the proper crown of the decks on it so the decks will .ay flat on it. This not only stiffens the boat but gives you wood to screw a flagpole socket or bevel low chocks fast to. 1 Fit another similar block between the beams of the for- ward deck as shown on the plans to receive the screws holdmg a cleat, and aft in the corner formed by the side and the transom fit a small knee to stiffen it. The deck should be either of Ya or ^-inch pine or cedar put on in wide boards and painted or varnished as suits one's taste. I would not advise having the boards too wide ; one hatch setting in on cleats, screwed fast to the sides of the coaming and which can be removed bodily to get at the engine. Such matters as these are of minor impor- tance, and any man will use his ingenuity to rig it up to suit his own taste. . . r -ii The placing of the engine and lining up of the shaft will, of course, have to be figured out from the engine, diameter FIG-20. ^ 5M I f I t i i L — I, U 1 < ^ i ' * ■ 1 ^..~~ ' // you ^ai't n/ room ro iswee/) a<3 /artfe a c/rde, you i:an /a/ oJ/ your aecA ijsa/ns /rjf?^ f/ieje //(^ures that is, twelve or fourteen inches. Keep them down to about six inches in width, for the reason that the expansion and contraction of a very wide board will cause the seams between them to open too wide. Fasten the deck to the beams with about ij4 or iJ/^-inch galvanized wire nails, with heads punched in about a quarter of an inch, and the holes filled with putty to match the wood in color, if it is to be varnished, but not necessarily so if you are going to paint it. For the sake of simplicity in construction, I have shown the forward end of the cockpit cut off V- shaped instead of a half-circle, which would require the steaming and bending of the coaming. This V shape can be cut out of straight stuff, the joints reinforced with a block of oak behind the seam, and to which each of the pieces of coaming is screwed fast from thq outside. The coaming should be at least J^ of an inch in thickness, and one can use his own judgment as to height. On the plans I have shown what I consider a fairly good layout of coaming and sort of cabin over the engine. This cabin consists of two flaps, hinged along the side, that can be lifted up, exposing the motor, or simply built as FIG-19 fl/Iou/ance /nusf ie. ma^e /or //?e can^e oraraw/? a/ //le i/ee/: if! pa/f//7a //! /^^ ////!ej/?e///^/ouf S ' ei/fe tf///e c/ecfr /rw/// cofne. "Tm /an/ af f/ie. of propeller, etc., which you intend to install. It is really these points which govern the boring of the shaft hole. To determine the proper height for the engine bed, stretch a chalk line very tightly from temporary braces in such a way that it centers perfectly at both the inner and outer end of the shaft hole. By leveling across from this chalk line you can determine the height and grade for building up the beds to which your engine is to be lag screwed. On the outside of the boat, aft, this line will give you the heights for the strut, which should be put there to support the shaft, just forward of the propeller. All you need for this is the angle. Cut one end of a thin pine board so that it fits against the keel in such a manner that it forms a right angle with this shaft line and mark across it the line made by the chalk line. With this as a templet, you can make a pattern and have a strut cast, or take a piece of about ^-inch brass about six inches wide, bend it around either a piece of iron pipe or a piece of wood, about Ya of an inch greater in diameter than the shaft which comes with your engine. Rivet it together, and then spread the other part out in the form of two legs, which can be flanged and bolted fast to the bottom plank- ing; by putting a shaft through this loop so formed in this sheet brass, and pouring babbitt metal around it, you can babbitt such a bearing and make one that will answer all the requirements as well as a cast strut would do. The rudder is of the simplest construction. Take an oak board about Ij4 inches in thickness, saw out just such a rudder as you would make for any kind of a small row- boat, and attach it to the stern by two screw eyes in the transom, two in the rudder, and a rod dropped through them, forming a hinge. Fit a wooden yoke across the head of this rudder and attach tiller lines by which the boat can be steered, either by hand as a rowboat would, or if you want a more shippy arrangement, you can lead it through screw eyes or fairleaders in the deck over brass sheaves to a steering wheel which can be screwed fast to the bulkhead at the after end of the engine space. It is scarcely necessary to go into further details on this boat, for all complications have been avoided, the main object being to tell how to build the hull in the simplest possible manner. The deck fittings and other things can be arranged to suit the owner's individual taste. 15 M » u < o u o H o o (I, O < z o H O » H CO Z o u 10 A 25-Foot Cabin Cruiser BY FREDERIC S. NOCK FOR such readers as will be interested in building a small cruising motorboat, I am going to try and de- scribe how to proceed to construct a 25-foot boat, and if these specifications are carefully adhered to, those who build will be surprised to find what a handly little craft it will make. The engine for which the boat was designed is a two- cylinder, two-stroke, rated at 6-hp. and the weight alldwed for same is 350 pounds. Therefore, if you do not use one of these engines you at least should bear in mind that in order to get the best results, you should install an engine of about the same weight and power, irrespective of whether you desire a two- or a four-stroke engine. Do not install a high-speed, high-powered engine if you want a cruiser, and bear in mind that this craft is not designed for a speed boat. Eight (8) miles an hour can be de- pended upon with the outfit mentioned, and that is speed enough for so small a cruiser. It is almost a moral impossibility to cover all the de- tails in the specifications even though they are much more comprehensive than such as I should furnish to a practi- cal builder, but I will try to explain as closely as possible how to proceed When you have laid down the lines full size, you can proceed to get out the moulds. For this you will need about 100 feet of hemlock, spruce or some such material. Saw to shape and don't forget that the lines are to the outside of the plank, therefore if you mark your moulds the same as the lines, you will have to take off ^ of an inch around same, as these moulds are to represent the inside of the planking and the planking is to be J4 of an inch in thickness. Of course you can take this amount off the outside when you lay down the lines if you prefer, and bv doing so. you will save yourself considerable labor. A practical boat builder seldom uses all the moulds, but wouMyjrobably use Nos. 2, 4, 8, 16, 20. and 22, and spacing them 4 feet apart except the two end ones, you can pro- ceed in this manner and have good results provided you use good strong battens to make a fair curve and hold the frames in place without bending the battens. The lines as laid down usually show but one side of the mould as both sides should be alike, therefore you will find it easier to mark out one side of the mould on a piece of board, fasten this to another pieee and saw the two of them out at the same time ; this applies especially to the case if a band or jig saw is available. Mark and cut out all your moulds in this manner and then proceed to fasten them together. There are many different methods in vogue, but one that is about as good as any for the amateur is to put the cross pawls in such a position that the lower edge of all of them sets to the sheer line on each mould. Where more than two pieces of wood are used to make a mould, you can cleat them together, taking care to keep the cleat well in from the edges in order not to interfere with the frames, etc., if any of them should be close to the mould. Cleat the lower part of the moulds with a piece of spruce or some such material about 2x2 inches, so that vou can use this to fasten the mould to the keel If the cross pawls are set true, it is a great help in setting up, as you can level same, and again I would call your attention to the necessity of marking the center line on each mould. I believe that in a case of this sort it is also a good plan to mark on the moulds the waterline, for by so doing you can easily ascertain whether the moulds are all set up correctly or not before starting to put on the battens. The practical builder could tell this at a glance, but it is not always so with the amateur. When you have completed your moulds, you can pro- ceed to mark out the keel. For this you will need a nice piece of oak. about 21 feet long. 3 inches thick and 12 inches wide; carefully smooth the sides and mark out on same the shape, and the stations, cut to the lines and after carefully trimming the keel run in a line through the cen- ter of the upper side, and, with your square, mark the stations across the top. Select a good piece of oak for the stem, mark the shape on same and cut to the lines. It is a good plan to make a thin wood template of the stem as you can use this template to mark out the shape and also the rabbet line. To do this, you can bore a number of small holes along the line of the rabbet, and with a drill or awl you can easily reproduce this on one side of the piece of wood you have previously cut to shape, re- verse the template and mark the other side, draw a center line down the face of the stem *and a line ^ of an inch on each side of same, which allows J^ of an inch for the face of the stem. Trim from the rabbet line to these two outer lines and then proceed to cut the rabbet, using a fid (Fig. 3) to get the bevel. If you want to get the rabbet on the stem absolutely correct you can do so by marking on same the waterline and cutting the rabbet to the exact bevel, but I do not think you would save much time by doing this, for when the stem is in position and you start to place the battens, if the rabbet line needs fairing in places you can easily accomplish same, having the battens to work to. If the engine you decide to use is of the dimensions as the one called for on the plans, you can rest assured that the line of the shaft will not differ, and therefore you can proceed to get out the shaft-log. For this you will need 17 X / /7 ^ ^^ T 1 i K '~"~- - ^ -^ \\ 4 '/III \ \ S \ ' // / i \ ■ ^^^ \ /// /// / \v\ "■ ~\ \ //// //' / 1 \ \\ \ ./// // 1 1 1 —f \ \ \ ? // / / / / / \ \\ \ \ iim f 1 \\\ \ \ wfri 71 f 1 \\ 1 i L r| r 1 \\ 1 %■ II 1 / 1 / \ \ J\ i //// / / \\ ! ///// / -f 1 w - .1 J i 3 < s -1 -1 D a c - s ff// o 1// / / 1 1 . L c i Y — (— ■Si ' ' > o < IQ O 1 1 i o 5 §1 1 'i. , 1 — » 1 T - « i — 1 ^ 1 V \- - 1 - U \ 1 \ 1 1 w 1 1 \ / 1 1 1 \ 1 1 1 1 \l 7 7 j O / / / M \ \ / / / o / l\\ \ '\ / / / O 111 \ l\ / / / 2 / / W \ / / / ft\ 1- ^ \ i O O / WW ' \ I'll //J^ \\\ \l N "^ I 11 O f \\\ \ / / / / / \\\ l\ / / / M / 1 \\\ 1 \ / / / H 1 \ \\ \ 1 \ 1 / / / is ! i \ \ \ \I / / / 1— 1 ^J- — ^/l/ K^ ■-) , ^-^ ^f \/^ ^ ^"^ "^-^^ / ' _ ' Y — j ^^^....^^ V-^i 1 i 1 i ± J; ^ -- 18 Vtf <£> to to Jo \> * '^ 'v> h^'-¥- 6"-i- -^"^ 6--\- Gs"- -w "--^ Ju. Body Plan Plan of One-half Transom LAYING DOWN TABLES for LINES -N9 156 / H All Dimenaions ciuen in Feci, Inches, and Ei g hiSf and Ahoue Base Line £■ —6 LeZou/ ^Xie L.W.L. All Lines h oufsicfe of Ploi^k SfaHons Z 4 6 S 10 la 14 16 iS ZO zz 24 ZS ! X u X Raised 5"heerLiVie 6.9.0 6.7 7 6.6.7 6.6.0 6.S.Z 6.4.4 6.4.0 6.36 Sheer Line S.9.0 5:6.6 S.4.6 5.2.7 5.1.2 411.6 4105 4.9.5 4.9.0 4S.6 45.6 4.91 4.9.6 Robb si- 1.7.1 1.3.7 1.2.5 LZ. i 1.2.0 1.2.3 I.3.Z 1.4.4 1.6.4 1.9.3 2.1.5 Z.7.0 Keel BoHom 14. i I.I. a 0. 11.6 010.1 0.6 3 Section IE out J 10.4 2.1.0 1. 5.3 1.6.1 1.4.7 1.4.6 1. 5.2 16.2 1.8.1 1.10.6 225 24^' ■• 4S.5 2.6.6 z.o.z 1.9.3 1.5.2 I.S.3 1.9.2 1.10.7 2.1.4 2.6.3 f i < lij q: oo < X Raised Sheer Line 1.4.7 ^.3.4 2.10.1 3.Z.Z 3.4.5 3S.6 3.6.0 Sheer Line /.J.^ z.ie 2.S.6 J.I.J 342 3.55 3.60 3.5.5 3.3.7 3.1.3 2.10.1 2.6.0 W.Line JAbooe 1 1.3 i.n.7 2.76 3.07 3.4.0 35.4 3S7 3.5:2 3.J.6 3.1.2 2/0.0 z •• 0.11.1 1.9.1 Z.S.I 2.107 3.2.5 3.4.6 3.5.4 ^5.4. 7 3.3.2 3.0.4 2.5.3 I 0.9.4 1.6.7 2.2.7 2.9.0 3.1.2 3.3 6 3.4.5 J.40 3.2.Z Z.H.I 2.5.6 L.W.L. 0.7.3 1.37 1.11.4- 2.5.7 2.10.5 3.1.3 3.2.2 3.1.5 2.11.5 2.7.^ I.I 1.3 W.Line 1 Belocu 0.4.3 Olio I.S.4 I.II.5 2.46 276 2.3.3 2.6.7 2.3.0 1.6.2 z •• O.O.J 0.4.1 0.7 7 0.11.6 13.1 1.45 1.3.0 0.10.0 DiaQonal A 0.91 /.4.2 I.S.I 1. Ip.4 I.I 1.7 2.0.3 2.00 I.IO.T 1.37 1.5:6 I.I.O B 0.11.0 \.7 5 2.2.3 2.7.4 2.11.2 3.1.3 3.1.7 3.1.0 2.II.I Z.JG 2.2.3 c i.0.0 1.9.6 2.5.4 2\lU 3.32 3.54 5.6.2 3.5.6 34.0 3.1.0 25.3 Xiiagoncd A InicvSecls Pe 3 vpend-icTxlcnrd-o" Ahoue BoseLlne, one/ BaseL/ne ZS ouf 3-6" ' W.L.ZB. 4'-0' ■•■ C ■■ " 4-0' L.W.L. 5-0' - 19 two pieces of oak, 3J4 feet long, 3x3 inches, plane them smooth and with your gauge mark a center line on lone side of each piece, and another line ^ of an inch out on either side, scribe a half circle with a radius of ^ of an inch on either end, and proceed to cut this halfround piece away. If you are so situated that you can obtain the use of machinery, this job would be simplified by running a few saw scarfs through same to the required depths ; then, with a gouge, cut away the superfluous stock, finishing it smooth with a round plane. In some cases the boat builder will run a saw scarf through the center line of both pieces, clamp them together and with a spur auger of the right size, bore the hole through, but no matter how much care is given, the spur is liable to run to one side or the other, and not follow the saw scarf, and if this happen; you will spoil your shaft-log. If you happen to have an auger of the right size, it would do no harm to run it through the center of the log after you have cut the two pieces out to shape, for in this manner you can rest assured that the hole is the correct size and round. Do not try to spline this shaft-log, as there is but little stock on either side for the fastenings and by putting a stop water at either end and calking between them you can make the seam tight. The horn timber can now be gotten out, the specifications call for this to be sided 3 inches. Select a nice piece of oak, mark and cut to shape, draw a center line along the upper side and then proceed to get out the knee for the transom. This can be an oak or hackmatack knee, a natural crook is to be preferred, to be about 3 inches in thickness. Cut to shape but do not fit until you are ready to set up the keel. You will need another knee to connect the stem to the keel, which same can be a natural crook or cut from a plank, mark it out on the plank so that the grain runs from point to point in order to get the greatest strength, it is to be 3 inches in thickness. When you have cut it to shape, cafefully fit same, taking due care to see that all joints are close and when fitted to the stem and keel, the stem does not lean forward or aft, but is the same position as shown on the plans. Clamp the knee in posi- tion, bore and bolt together with }i inch diameter gal- vanized iron, sink the heads of the bolts well into the out- side of the stem and keel so as to allow for covering same with wooden plugs. The inside ends should be riveted over galvanized iron washers, or if you prefer, you can fasten the knees in position with galvanized iron screw bolts; if a washer is put under the nut, you can draw the pieces together in good shape. When the stem is fastened to the keel you can proceed with the shaft-log. Set this in position and bore through each side about 4 inches from the forward end, and bolt through keel with 5-16 inch diameter bolts, counter- sinking the heads in the underside of keel and drawing up with nuts on washers on the upperside of the log. A Hol f Sidin g of 3tttn 3 , PqcK KohU^ h^1gr3gdl(^r^o f inaid* o f "PlanK with 3tewi C KQ^itct Lint ■■ outside .- ■■ » » Fig. 3 e Bore and put in two more bolts of the same size about 8 inches from the after end of the log, although in this case it would be better to use drive bolts about 12 inches in length. For these you will need some 5-16 inch diameter galvanized iron ; cut to length and with a hammer slightly taper one end. Then lasten in a vise and hammer a head on the oth^r end. Bore through the shaft-log with a 5-16 inch diameter bit, and into the keel with a J4-inch diameter bit or auger. Set the horn timber in position, and, after .carefully fitting same, secure it by clamps or some other convenient method, and proceed to fasten it ; if you start at the forward end it would be well to bore STEM PATTERN two holes about 4 inches from the end. Bore these holes through the horn timber, shaft-log and keel with a 5-16 inch diameter auger in such a position that they will be on either side of the shaft-hole. Countersink the under- side of the keel for the heads and use 5-16 inch diameter bolts and nuts set up on the upper side of the horn timber ; you will find that you may have to trim the wood a trifle in order to get a good bearing for the washer as the top of the timber is at an angle to the bolt. You can put in two more bolts about 10 inches further aft, and "Btill an- other two about 10 inches aft of them, and then the horn timber, shaft-log and keel are well fastened together, but you have not as yet fitted the stern post in position, although the keel is cut for it. Select a piece of oak that will work out 3 inches square and about 15 inches in length, and cut to fit the space allowed for same. When you are satisfied that it fits properly you can fasten it in position with 5-16-inch drive bolts. The transom, whi' 1 the specifications state is to be of oak, is ij4 'inches tl-ick. You will need two pieces -30x36 20 inches, and inasmuch as it might be a difficult matter to procure oak 30 inches wide, you will probably have to use two narrower pieces and bolt them together, or, if you prefer, you can use mahogany for the transom. There :s little or no difficulty in obtaining this material 30 inches wide, but it would cost a trifle more than oak. Thfr-^rfans show one half the transom with all dimensions marked on it. You can set this out direct on one of the pieces of stock for transom if you desire, and saw it out and mark the opposite side for same. Or you can saw the two pieces at one time with a band saw. Trim carefully to shape and get out a couple of cheek pieces of oak i inch thick and about 3 inches wide ; set these almost out to the edges of the transom and fasten with galvanized screws, these pieces are to be trimmed to form a back rabbet to fasten the ends of the planking to, and you will probably have to fair them to some extent when you start to put on the battens. You can now proceed to set up the frame. Draw a chalk line on the floor where you intend to set up the boat and to the edge of this line set up 4 pieces of spruce 3x4 inches, each oiece to be one foot longer than the height on the table of offsets of ^ase line to keel bottom, at sta- tions 2, 8, 14, and 20. Nail a strip of wood to the sides of these upright, so that the upper edge will represent the base line, and if the floor is level, it will be one foot above same. Set this strip of wood level, using a long spirit level to ascertain that neither end is high. The forward side of these posts will represent the stations Nos. 2, 8, 14, and 20, and you can measure up on from the upper edge of the strip representing the base line and see that the dimensions correspond to the heights of keel bottom above the base line on table of offsets. These uprights must be well braced forward and aft and also at the sides in order to keep them upright and sustain the weight of the boat. It is not necessary to obtain any special size stock for these braces, as most any stock from i to 2 inches thick will serve the purpose if properly fastened. Set the keel on the uprights and ascertain that it is in the right posi- tion ; measure from the base line to the waterline on stem and see that it is 2H feet above the base line as per plans. Plurnb the stem and securely brace it from overhead if possible. If you are sure that it is correct, you can fasten some wooden cleats to each side of the uprights and also fasten to the keel. The knee and transom can be fitted and fastened, using plenty of fastenings but taking due care not to get any nails or screws where they will interfere with the rudder port, which will have to be bored and time spent looking out for this will mean a saving in the end, as nails and screws are apt to spoil an auger or bit. Place your level against the side of the knee and when vertical, stay the transom either to the rafters or some other convenient place. Then take your chalk line and stretch it from the center line of the transom to the center line of the stem, haul taut, and drop a plumb-bob from same (see Fig. 8). If the point of the bob touches the line on the center of the keel you can rest assured that the stem and stern are in line, but do not be satisfied with one trial, try the plumb-bob at diiYerent points and if any of them are out, sight along the side of the keel and if this is not in a straight line fore and aft you must brace it until it is perfectly straight and the plumb-bob must intersect the center line at any point. When you have it correct, you can fasten the stays or braces strongly, so as to keep it in position. 21 "Consort," Built from Mr. Nock's Plans and Instructions PART II. BEFORE you begin to set up your moulds, it would be advisable to finish the rabbet line, as you have only cut the stem. The rabbet line is supposed to be marked on the keel on either side, and inasmuch as the upper side of the keel as far aft as the shaft-log represents the inside of the planking, it is not a difficult matter to trim this rabbet at intervals, taking the proper bevel at the different stations from the lines you have laid dovvn. Then fair up the places between the points you have spotted, or cut to the proper shape. Where the rabbet line crosses the knee and connects with the rabbet line on the stem you must he very careful to get it correct. It would be advisable to get two pieces of oak. i inch thick, about 6 feet in length, to fasten to each side of the shaft-log and horn timber ; they should be cut to the curve of the rabbet line and the proper bevel, and securely fastened. Cut out places in the lower edges of these pieces to receive the heels of the frames; of course you will understand that these pieces are to form a back rabbet for the garboards or the plank nearest to the keel and should be cut to the proper bevel of the inside of the plank. Having finished cutting the rabbet line along the keel, etc., you can now proceed to set up the moulds. Starting with No. 2, set this in position so that the forward side of the mould intersects with station No. 2 on the knee. Cut it over the knee and set it down so that the lower part of the mould intersects with the back rabbet ; measure up from your base line to the L. W. L. on the mould and if it is 2j^ feet up, screw through the block into the knee to hold the mould, plumb the face of the mould and when you have leveled the cross pawl you can secure the mould with stay-laths. Moulds 4, 8, and 12 can be set up in the same manner with the forward sides of the moulds inter- secting with stations 4, 8, and 12 on the keel, but the moulds 16, 20, and 22 are to be set with the after side of the moulds intersecting with their respective stations. Perhaps it might be well to explain the reason for setting them in this manner and I would call your attention to the fact that the edges of the moulds are cut at right angles to the face and the shape of curve of the boat com- mences to narrow up from station 12 forward and from station i6 aft; therefore these moulds are so placed that the edges which the battens spring against are in a direct line with the stations for which the moulds were made. When all the moulds are properly stayed, it is a good plan to go carefully over them and see that they are perfectly plumb and the cross pawls level, and if you stretch your chalk line fore and aft in a line with the L. W. L. at the stem and stern, it should also intersect with the waterline on each mould. If it does you can rest assured that your moulds are set up properly. Fasten some stays from one mould to another and start to bend and fasten on the bat- tens. For these you will need some nice, clear pieces of yellow pine or fir about i^xiJ/2 inches; if you get them long enough to extend from end to end in one piece so much the better, otherwise you can use shorter lengths and let them lap by one another. Fasten the end of one of the battens in the rabbet on stem, bend carefully around the moulds and fasten to same with long thin screws, putting washers under the heads of same to pre- vent them pulling through the battens. Set the first batten so that the lower edge touches the mark represent- ing the sheer line on each mould; when you get to the transom you will probably find that the bevel of the cheek pieces does not allow the battens to bear the entire width, and in that case it must be pared until the batten has a good bearing, and the same thing applies to the other bat- tens where they are fastened to the transom and stem; you must also see that there is the right bevel cut on the edge of the transom. It would be advisable to put about six battens on a side, space them about the same distance apart. If you have been careful in making and setting the moulds, you will find that the battens touch each one and at the same time have a nice fair curve. The frames, or timbers, should be cut from straight grained white oak; if you can procure some stock that has not been dried you will find it much easier to bend when it has been steamed than the seasoned stock. Under no conditions should you try to use kiln dried stock; it is almost an impossibility to bend it, and even if you do succeed in bending it you will find that it has a natural tendency to straighten instead of retaining its shape. The specifications call for the frames to be i}ixiys inches, spaced 9 inches center to center. You will need 30 frames for each side. If, however, the frames from sta- tion No. 4 to the forward end of the shaft-log are in one piece from sheer to sheer, it will reduce the number of frames. You will need nineteen frames to run from sheer to sheer, and as you are liable to break some of them, it would be advisable to get out twenty-six. The longest frame will be about 14 feet, but you had better get 16-foot lengths; there are twenty-two short frames required, and if you are using 16-foot stock you can cut the pieces ia two and use for the short frames. Don't forget that you may break some of these and that it is a good plan to get out a number of extra frames ; even though you do not break a great number they will not be wasted as they can be used for the floors. 22 Mark off on the keel the spacing of the frames, taking care not to measure along the top of the keel but in a straight line, and it is a good plan to mark the position of the frames on the center and upper batten as this will save considerable time when you are bending in the frames. Put some of the frames in your' steam box and let them stay until they are well saturated, and are soft and pliable. It will probably take from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the amount of steam you have, and bear in mind that you do not require dry steam, it cannot be too wet. Having satisfied yourself that the frames are suffi- ciently well steamed you can proceed to bend the frames to the battens. If you have put in some of the long frarries you can start anywhere along the widest part of the boat, gradually spring the frame down until it touches the keel ; then, bearing your weight ,Qn same, work up- wards on either side, fasten the frame to the keel with galvanized iron boat nails and clamp it to the battens, tak- ing due care to see that it fits closely to the battens and stands perpendicular. There will be no trouble about it "being perpendicular if you bring the edge to the mark on the battens. There is no need for me to tell you that this part of the work would be a great deal easier if you can iiave someone to assist in bending and fastening the clamps; it will also save you considerable climbing up and •down, for the best way to bend these frames is to get inside of the framework and bear your whole weight on tbem. If you have only a few clamjw you will probably Tieed them for the next frame, and if so you can remove the clamps one at a time, and fasten the frame to the "battens with a wire nail through each batten. By the time you had bent in a few of the amidship frames — which are the easiest to bend in — you will have grasped the situation and find that there is nothing very difficult about this part of the work. The frames at the forward end will require a little more care as they must be cut to iit the sides of the stem and as thev do not set square with the battens, you will have to twist them so that they fit close to each side of the battens. The frames aft of the forward end of the shaft-log will have the heels fitted in the mortises in the cheek pieces and fastened to same. These frames will also have to be twisted to get the right shape to make them set close to the battens with width of the frame, and a large monkey wrench would be of valu- able assistance in twisting the frames. When you have finished framing you can put in the floors. These are to be i%xiyi inches and should be about 3 feet in length. Beginning at station No. 4, all the floors should be on the after side of the frames until you reach station No. 14, and from this point aft all floors should be forward of the frames. Bend in the floors and fasten to the keel, then put three fastenings through the side of floor and frame on either side of the keel. For this purpose it is a good plan to use a galvanized wire nail, if the fastenings are to be of galvanized- iron as specified for this boat. The floors aft of the shaft-log are not bent to shape, but are to be cut out of iJ/^-inch oak; cut them so that they fit over the upper side of the horn timber and the shaft-log and shape the underside the same as the frame; fasten to the horn timber and shaft-log and also through the sides of the frames. It is a good plan to cut a piece out of the corner of these cut floors or else bore holes through same so as to allow any water that may run in aft to find its way to the lowest point, and now that I have brought up the subject of limburs, I will call your attention to the fact that there has been no provision made for same in this boat, the frames and floors are small and to cut a limbur in them that would be of a suitable size would ma- terially weaken both the floors and frames and I would suggest that you do not cut in any limburs, but when the boat is planked, take some Portland cement and pour in each bay until flush with the top of the lowest frame and in this manner you will have a clear passage for the water and no obstructions. This is an advantage in a k^ r^ 1 1 i ; 1 i 1 1 1 1 ! ; 1 1 A A Cross Braces A Molf Section ot FoTu/ord Broce StWt'tOr* ' + Engine Bed Details 23 motorboat, for it enables one not only to clean it out easily, but also when the craft is laid up in the Fall, it is much easier to remove the surplus oil and grease that will collect in the bottom of a boat of this description, no matter how careful one may be. If, however, your mind is set on having limburs cut in the frames, this is the time to do it, before you start to put on any plank, etc. When you have completed the frames you can proceed to get out the planking. Fig. 9 shows a half section of the boat at station No. 12 and you will note that I have shown thirteen planks on each side from the garboard to the sheerstrake. It' is not necessary to use exactly this number of planks to a side; some builders prefer wider planks and of course there would not be as many if they were wider. However, it is better to use the narrow plank. The garboard, or plank next to the keel, is usually the widest and the planks narrow from that point to the planks are put on, I am going to suggest that you start to put on the sheerstrake first; select your plank and plane to }i inch thickness, and before you can proceed to mark the shape of the sheerstrake, you will have to find out the shape of this plank, and in order to do so, it is necessary to take a spiling. To do this take a piece of pine or cedar about 3-16 or j4 inch thick, 6 to 7 inches wide and about 26 feet in length, this is called a spiling batten or staff, and can be made up of two pieces fastened together if these are easier to obtain than one length. Bend this naturally around the moulds below the marks representing the sheerline, and with some small wire brads secure it in position, taking due care that the edge of the staff does not cover any of the marks representing the sheerline ; take your jpencil compasses and set them to such a width that the radius is slightly in excess of the widest place between the edge of the staff and sheerline. Method of Bending Frames turn of the bilge upwards where they should all be of one width with the exception of the sheerstrake, which is usually made wider than the next four or five planks below it. The specifications eall for yellow pine planking and if you use this material, there is no reason why you should not have it in lengths of about 28 feet, or long enough to reach from end to end without any butts. If you are unable to obtain the requisite lengths, the planks can be butted, and again if you cannot procure yellow pine or fir, you could use cedar, cypress or white pine. Either of these materials would make good planking. As it is easier to put in the engine bed before the lower place the point of the compasses at the sheerline on each mould and sweep in an arc on the staff, mark the end of the staff where it intersects with the rabbet in stem, re- move the staff and fasten it to the plank you intend to use for one of the sheerstrakes, and with your compasses draw an arc, the point of the compasses being set on one side of the arc on the staff. Then put the point of the compasses on the other side of the arc on staff and draw another arc on the plan. This arc will cross the first one drav^n, and where these two arcs intersect or cross is the point you must work to when you draw the line repre- senting the upper side of the sheerstrake. You must re- 24 Su'iliwg Bo'Hen Fig. II. — How Spots Are Transferred to Plank peat this process at each place where you have drawn an arc on the staff, and when you have them all marked, remove the staff, select a good batten and bend -to the re- quired shape so that a line drawn along the edge of same will cut through each of the arcs you have drawn where they intersect. Fig. lo will help to explain this a trifle more clearly, and Fig. ii shows the staff fastened to the plank and the arcs marked on» same and also the plank. To obtain the shape of the lower edge of the sheerstrake you can mark at the center the extreme width, which I have figured at 5 inches, then mark the width at each end, bend a good strong batten to these points until you have a fair line and cut to same. Bear in mind that you need two of these pieces and therefore it is advisable to saw out another one for the opposite side before you begin '-to fasten it to the frames. The sheerline as shown on the plans represents the height to the top of the deck and though this is short, it should be taken into consideration. The deck plank is to be % of an inch in thickness, there- fore the sheerstrake should be 7/% of an inch below the sheerline marked on the moulds. Fit the forward end to the rabbet on the stem and fasten it, taking due care that the upper edge touches the marks ^ of an inch below the sheerline; hold it in position with clamps and fasten to the frames, countersinking for the nail heads so as to allow of their being covered with 7-16 inch diameter wood plugs. The after end must be carefully cut to fit the bevel of the transom and be well fastened to the cheek pieces on same. It is a good plan for the amateur to mark on the edges of the moulds or frames the width of the planks. Fig. 9 shows a half section at station No. 12 and you will note that there are thirteen planks to a side including the sheerstrake and garboard; the upper strakes, representing the raised sheer, I have not taken into consideration as you are working from the sheerline. Starting from the sheerline on the mould representing station No. 12, make a mark % of an inch below same, then another one 5 inches below that. This will repre- sent the sheerstrake. Now start at the keel and mark 8 inches up, from this mark 7 inches upwards, and another 6 inches, and the remaining spaces you can divide equally into nine spaces. These will represent the greatest widths of the planks, and you should proceed to mark on the stem the height of the upper edge of the garboard and the lower edge of the sheerstrake which should be consider- ably narrower at this end than at station No. 12. The transom should be marked in a similar manner and then, if you desire, you can mark out on each mould the widths of the planks; of course the garboard and the next two strakes will be wider in proportion than the others, but it is a simple matter to figure this out and have a good curve to all the planks. The professional builder does not always lay out his plank in this manner, and some of you may know a much better method ; this article, however, is not written for the practical boat builder, but for the amateur. Inasmuch as you are not going to fit in the garboards at present on ac- count of the engine bed, we can at least work to the width laid out for the garboards and other plank and proceed to get out the next plank below the sheerstrake. You can take a spiling from the lower edge of the sheerstrake in a similar manner to the spiling of the sheerstrake, except that in this case you work from the lower edge of the sheerstrake in sweeping in the arcs on the staff. Be sure to make some marks on the sheerstrake and staff so that when you have cut out your plank you cam bring them to the same position as you had when you took the spiling. Mark the widths of this plank at intervals, bend a batten to it, draw a fair curve through these points and you have a line reoresenting the lower edge of this plank. Cut out two planks to this shape. If you take this plank and bend around the moulds in order to see that it fits, you will most probably find that the seam is open quite wide in the center of the boat but it closes at the stem and "the A •■ /Moulds Fig. 10. — Shape of Spiling fpr Plank and Garboard 25 or p»- is aot aeoessuy at lo f« ia dbe Ci«|iM jhTfrs. aad liK fact dot Meadk siAe dnrii he 9BQf ttn cMcI iJ is il is ahn^s htst to i ritB< 'fee it . fcr F ae a or tKistBd. Fa tdhe laiUB vitti slajlalks aad aCttr yos ttttt ag >iM i has MK SB lew^ wtA jva cas procma to pal i& tothc of oak «he Cdoiittte For tihese jfoo mM meed two 3 mclKS to tfc a iii ss, ., aknt 5 feet loae >■< 11 TW ccator ine of dK slafit aril he 4Eree^ over Ike OBtocr iae of dK hedl. a^ as }«a have aheadlf hored tike skaft of wood acrass d^ hale to Ae stem fast, cat a aotch v9 he £re£djp ia dK ocaAer of dK hol^ fas- of voy stra^^ §1 lead the odxr csn Ihnwigh dK smit 33lnr. Cany il lw*aid ahaaft ay to stodm No. la; ~ :. pMoe of aioad aooss Ae fcatoes at sock a I _ tagjhi over dK top of smbc is d i iw . lly wi& Ike joM ia dK sUe of dtt skaft4oe. H f ~ nt comedy 23k fint ti^K^ 3paa v3 kzvc to ivse Jk futaaid cod iHflflyoa aore stoe nat it b ^toto ~ Iso ia fiae vidk dK cxaaer liae of kecL Tke Ae oeator Bae of Ite skxft aad yoar he tafaea feoto it. Fiist asoeitoia dK ? ig»c eapbe »kere > ihiiJd west aa tike -aTfeid oto dK «staace €rato 4 x 3J4 inches at the ends. This taper should be about 7 feet in length. Select some straight grained piece of stock and have it milled to the re- quired dimensions, and finish with a hand smooth. Mark on the center frames the location of the bilge or clamp on either side, also the stem and stern, bend the bilge clamp down in the center and fasten with a screw clamp and then work the ends to the required position, or as a good bearing on the frames, bore and fasten to the frames, putting one fastening through each frame at the upper and lower edges of the clamp. These fastenings should be either riveted or clinched Over the frames. Having fastened in the two bilge clamps, you can continue your planking and I would suggest getting out the garboards first. You will proceed in a manner somewhat similar to getting out the sheerstrake, but owing to the fact that this is more difficult, I will explain it so that you can proceed without any trouble. Take a piece of pine or cedar about the same dimen- sions as your spiling batten or staff, but don't use that one as you will need it for the balance of the planking; tack this over the frames close to the rabbet in the keel, take your compasses, and setting them to a radius of about one- quarter of an inch mbre than the widest place between the rabbet and the edge of the staff, strike in a number of arcs at intervals of about one foot apart until you get to the short turn at the stem, where the marks should be quite close in order to get the shape more accurately. Make some marks on the keel and batten in order to en- able you to get the batten back in the same position again. Fig. 10 shows the staff in position with marks showing the spiling, and if these marks are transferred to the piece of plank to be used for the garboards in the same manner as suggested for the sheerstrake, there will be no difficulty in making them fit, but it may save you some lumber as well as considerable labor if you first cut the spiling bat- ten to the mark you have made, pare and trim until it fits the rabbet perfectly, and then it is no trouble to mark around same with a pencil, and you have the shape of the lower edge of one of the garboards. The shape of the other edge is obtained in the same manner as the lower edge of the sheerstrake, mark the greatest width, the width at the forward and after ends, and a couple of in- tervening places if you so desire, bend a batten to same, strike a fair curve and cut to shape. You will have to exercise considerable care in fitting the lower edge to the rabbet, chalk the inside of the rabbet, and when you have clamped the garboard in position, if there are any places where it needs trimming to make a good fit, don't slight it, but spend time enough to have it fit all along the rabbet. Mark on a board a duplicate of the plank, cut and fit as carefully as the first one and, when they are ready, steam them well and start to fasten one of them, beginning at the stem. Drive the plank tight into the rabbet, bore a hole Ji or 7/16 inch diameter, to take the wood plug to cover the head of the fastening. This should not be over J4 inch deep; then bore a hole a trifle smaller than the nail through the planking into the stem, and fasten with galvanized boat nails. The fasten- ings should be about ij4 inches apart where the garboard connects with the stem and in the keel they should be about 2/'i inches apart. There should be three fastenings in the width of the plank at each frame and floor, two of the fastenings to be through the frame and one through the floor, unless you make the after end very narrow, and in that case you would not need more than two fastenings at each frame and floor. When you have finished fastening the garboards, you can proceed to get out the next plank; cut to shape and fasten to the frames, etc. Before you continue to plank any further, I must call your attention to the planks which are to be used around the turn of the bilge. These planks should be cut out of stock that is thick enough to allow of the inside being coped or planed hollow to fit close to the frames. When you have removed sufficient of the inside of the plank to admit of its fitting closely to the frames, set your gfauge to ^ inch and run a score along the edges of the plank, then plane to this line, but not for the entire width of the plank, as you can easily plane this when you finish the outside of the planking. You can now cut out and fasten in position the next five strakes, and when you have finished with them yott will be ready for the shutter, for such is the name given to the last plank to be fitted. It is necessary to take a spiling on both sides for this plank, and be sure to get it large enough. Having satisfied yourself that it is the required shape, fit the forward end to the rabbet in stem 28 and drive it in place, fasten to the stem and continue to drive it in till it fits close to the frames and fasten to same as fast as you drive it in place, for in this manner you will prevent it from springing out when driving. The How Chain Clamp Is Used cutting of the after end of the plank to fit the rabbet in the transom must be done before the fastenings are put in the last few frames; finish fastening in frames and transom and fit the shutter on the opposite side. A well- fitting shutter tends to tighten up" all the planking, and if you have kept the widths of the planks about equal, it is hard to distinguish the shutter from the other planks. The planking of the raised sheer can now be gotten out and fastened in position, and as I have already explained how to obtain the shape of the planks, there is no need for me to explain the operation as there are but three planks to be gotten out for either side of the raised sheer. I have figured that all the planking you will use will be full length, but for the benefit of those who are unable to procure the long lengths or prefer the shorter planks, I would 'state that the method of planking would be the same, the only difference is that some of the planks would be in t.wo or more pieces. All that is necessary is to make the butts come between the frames and fasten them se- curely. Fig. i6 shows the usual method of fastening a butt. Tbp butt block should be of oak about i inch thick and of sutficient width to lap over the edge of the plank on either side J^ of an inch. The forward and after ends of these blocks should be chamfered on the side nearest to the inside of the plank so as to allow any water, that might leak in to run through, instead of collecting on top of the block. Fit all blocks tight between the frames, and if properly ■fastened, the plank is stronger at this point than elsewhere. If you have butts in the planking, bear in mind the neces- sity for distributing same. Do not make one butt come directly over the top of another, but break all joints by placing at least three planks between, if the butt is between the same frames. When you have finished planking the boat, take a jack plane and roughly plane the outside, then the boat is ready lor calking. It is much b^^ter to have this done by a man who makes a business of it, as there is a great deal more in calking a boat than merely driving in cotton. If you desire to try your hand at this, you should procure some good spun cotton. You will also need some calking irons and a mallet — one of these irons will be needed for open- ing the seams and the other for driving in the cotton. Look carefully over the seam you intend to calk, and if you de- cide that it is open enough to drive, in the cotton, select a piece and start it in with the iron, using the calking mallet to strike the iron. Do not stretch out the cotton and drive it in, but bring it back a trifle, then drive; keep on doing this — it makes a lap and thus makes a much thicker bunch to drive in. Set it down hard and keep it about J4 of an inch below the surface. Experience will help you more than any explanation I can give you, and you will find as you progress just how much cotton to put in the seams, and how hard to drive it. If you want to find out just how easy, or how difficult, it is to calk a boat, just watch some of the men calking a small yacht or vessel, then go back and try it. When you have the hull calked, the seams should be painted with a thick lead paint; a long narrow brush with short bristles, known as a seaming brush, is the best thing to use to run the paint in the seams. This paint- ing of the seams makes them hold the putty and also form a ridge which prevents the cotton from working out, as it would have a tendency to do when there is much jarring on the boat such as would be occasioned by riveting in the deck clamps, etc. The deck clamps and raised deck clamps can now be gotten out and fastened in position. The clamp is to be of yellow pine, ij4 x 4 inches, the upper and lower edges to be chamfered from the forward end to the bulkhead at the after end of the cabin. Set the upper edge of^this clamp the same height as shown on the construction'plan and fasten to the frames. It is a good plan to fasten through the sheerstrake, frame and clamp, at each frame, petting these through fastenings alternately at the upper and lower edges. The raised deck clamp is to be of yellow pine 1)4 X 3>4 inches. Chamfer the lower edge and fasten in position. Take care to have the upper edge of the clamp at the correct height for the entire length, and when you have" put in a few fastenings it is advisable to ascertain that the upper edges are true, and the same height on 29 ^ PROPOSED CABIN PLAN FOR THE NOCK 25 FT. CABIN CRUISER 80 both sides of the hull, and if so, you can finish fastening same, adopting the same method of through fastening as suggested for the clamp at the normal sheer. If you intend to finish the exterior of the hull before doing any work on the interior, you can proceed to get out the two knees for the stern; these are to be cut from oak plank i^ inches in thickness. Fit a piece of oak i%xi^yi inches across the inside of the transom at such a height as to catch the ends of the deck plank, and then fasten the knees in position, securing same to the clamp, sheerstrake and transom. You will note that there are but three deck beams shown on the plan; these are to be of oak, sided ij4 inches, moulded ij4 inches, and cut with a crown of i^ inches in 5 feet. Mortise the ends of the two forward frames into the clamp and fasten to same. The after beam is to be halved into the knees and fastened. Between the two after beams you can fasten a piece of oak 8 inches wide and i^i inches thick to receive the lower end of the towing post or bitt, and then proceed to plank the deck. You will need some nice, clear white pine for this plank, and unless you can obtain the pine already cut with the edge of the grain on the flat side of the plank it will be best to purchase 2-inch plank and have it sawed and planed to the required thickness. The edges should be planed so as to have a bevel of 1-16 inch on each edge, and when these planks are placed edge to edge it will show a seam of about % inch iti width. Draw a line through the center of the beams, and after cutting the end of one of the pieces of plank to fit the transom, bring the edge of the plank to the line and fasten. Add planks on either side until you have the entire deck covered, tak- ing due care to draw them close together. Calk the seams, and pay them with thick lead paint. The filling of the seams with white lead putty and planing the deck can bet- ter be finished when you have the boat nearer completion. Now start at the opposite end and fit in at the stem an oak breast hook or knee, fasten to the clamps, sheer- strake and stem. The plans show seventeen beams for the raised deck; these should be of oak, sided Ij4 inches, moulded i^ inches. They can be either cut with a crown of S inches in 7 feet or steam bent to that shape. The lower corners can be chamfered or rounded, and the beams finished smooth. The next thing is to make a strong back to set these beams on, and for this you can take a piece of board about J-i inch thick and about 8 to 12 inches wide; set this so that the upper edge is the height of the under side of the beams, fasten both ends securely and proceed to cut the ends of the beams into the clamp, fasten to same and to the heads of frames. Cut out the covering boards, which are to be % inch thick and 3 inches wide, spring around the edge of the sheer and fasten to the beams and sheerstrake. Mark a center line on the beams and proceed to lay the plank, which is to be of cypress % inch thick, 3 inches wide. Fasten them from above into the beams and also toenail, as this will tend to draw the planks tight and make them close on the under side. Plane the upper side smooth and then fit in the grub beam, which is to be of oak 2x6 inches, the upper edge of which is to be rabbeted to receive the stav- ing at the after end of the house. This beam should be fastened very securely, as it will prevent the hull from spreading. The beams for the cockpit deck can be gotten out; these are to be of oak, sided lyi inches, moulded iJ4 inches, spaced 18 inches or fastened to each alternate frame. It is a good plan to nail a strip of yellow pine or oak about 1x2 inches to the frames at such a height that the ends of the beams will rest on same, and the beams should be fastened to this stfip as well as to the frames. Set stanchions under the centers of the beams to make them more rigid and to help support the cockpit deck. Lay the cockpit deck plank in strips of pine the same width and thickness as for the deck at the after end of the boat. If you intend to finish this deck in natural wood varnished, you will have to calk the seams and fill them with white lead putty or marine glue, if you prefer that material. Provided you intend covering the cock- pit deck with canvas, the plank can be of either pine or cypress; tongued and grooved stock is better for this purpose than the square edged material if it is not to be calked. When you have finished laying the deck you can proceed to cut out the rabbeted pieces of oak. The curve of the staving is so slight that this strip can be worked out of straight stock and sprung to shape. Twenty feet in length will make enough for the two sides and across fH o _3^ © [I] •site -IT <0 H ♦1" ■8 Slot D -H Detail Drawing of Rudder the front of the seat. Take your spirit level and set it against the inside of the clamp, ascertain that it is phimb, then make a mark on the cockpit deck plank ; continue doing this at intervals on both sides until you have a sufficient number of points to strike a line through with a batten and make a curve that corresponds exactly to the inside of the clamp. The line thus marked shows the outside of the staving, and as the pieces of oak you have rabbeted to receive the planking are 2 inches wide, you will have to set the outside of this piece of oak i]/i inches closer to the frames, as the staving is % inch thick, and you want to set the staving perpendicular. If the deck is covered with canvas, simply lay the oak pieces in thick 31 white lead and fasten closely to make it watertight, but if you intend to have the deck bright, it would be ad- visable to set the oak pieces on a strip of calking cotton as well as using white lead. When you have set the'se oak pieces you can proceed to set up the cockpit staving, which is to be of cypress J-i inch thick, 2 inches wide, tongued and grooved, and the edges bevelled on the in- side or face. Cut the lower ends so that they fit the oak pieces, set in white lead and fasten to same, and also fasten to the clamp. Leave the upper ends of these pieces of staving longer than you really require, as you can cut them off to a fair line when you have finished the staving. The staving at the after end of the cabin being of the same material can also be set in position. The lower ends are to, set into a rabbet on the grub beam, and the upper ends are to be fitted to the under side of the raised deck plank, where it projects over the beam, and are to be fastened to the raised deck beam. A filler piece of spruce of some such material i inch thick and 2^ inches wide can be fitted in between the upper edge of the stav- ing and the inside of the planking. The top of same is to be the same height as the under side of the cap, and when you have fastened in these pieces securely you can proceed to get out the cap. The specifications- call for the cap to be of oak 1% inches thick, 5 inches wide; this will allow for yi an inch overlap on the outside of the planking and afeo the same amount on the staving. Round these edges and proceed to fasten in position. You will most probably find that you cannot bend this piece of oak to the proper shape without steaming it, and therefore it would be advisable to steam it in the first place. Put in plenty of fastenings, the filler piece and the edges of the planking affording good places to fasten to. The heads of the fastenings should be counter sunk and covered with wood plugs, as should all the heads of the large fasten- ings in any part that is to be finished bright. The coaming for the cockpit hatch over the engine is to be of oak; work this out to shape as per plans, allowing for a waterway between the forward end and the grub beam, and fasten to the deck and beams. Rabbet a piece of oak 1J/2X2 inches to fit the upper edge of the coaming; this piece is to be used for the frame of the hatch. Halve the corners together and proceed to cover with %x2-inch white pine strips as you did with the cockpit deck; if you desire to finish bright, calk and fill the seams and put a small oak ribbon around the outside to form a finish and cover the wood ends. If covered with canvas this ribbon should cover the fastenings. The seat at the after end of the cockpit is not com- pleted, and you can finish same before proceeding with the cabin. The specifications call for the top of this seat and the lazy back to be of mahogany, but it is simply a matter of choice what you use ; mahogany stands the weather and warps but little, but I have seen some very fine looking seats and backboards made of cypress. Al- low for part of the top of this seat to open, as there is valuable space under it that can be used for storage, and you might have to get under the after deck at some time or another to renew the tiller rope, etc. Set in the lead scuppers at the after corners of the cockpit, and it is practically completed. These scuppers should be about 1% inches inside diameter, the flange on the upper side should be set flush with the deck and the lower end of scuppers flush with planking. It will be necessary to cut a rabbet in plank to receive the flange. The fastenings in the lead scuppers should be of copper. The towpost and forward bitts can be gotten out and fitted. These are to be of oak or locust 4x4 inches and 12 inches long. The part that fits the deck is to be trimmed to'3j5x3j^ inches; a hole is to be cut through same, and they arc to be driven in position and secured on the under side with two oak or locust wedges. The towpost can be set up, but the forward bitt cannot be fastened in until you have covered the raised deck with canvas, which you can now proceed to do. The canvas should be lo-ounce material, 8 feet in width and 14 feet long. This must be well stretched and fastened closely around the edges with copper tacks. The usual method of laying a canvas deck of this description is to cover the upper side of the plank with a thick paint, stretch and fasten the canvas, and then dampen the canvas with a sponge and apply a coat of paint. The claim is that the moisture tightens the canvas and the coat of paint prevents it from relaxing. Owing to the diversity of opinions upon this subject, I am going to state that I either set the canvas in thick white lead paint and -yvhen stretched apply a good coat of oil paint, using no water, or else I cover the plank with Jeffrey's marine glue, and when the can- vas has been stretched it is made to adhere to same by being ironed with hot flat irons. Men who are well versed in the handling of canvas or duck tell me that the oil (linseed) destroys the cotton, and they ought to know. The edges of the canvas, where fastened, should be cov- ered with a ij4-inch half-round moulding. Now that you have the deck finished you can remove the piece of wood you used for the strong back and pro- ceed with the interior. Set the beams for the floor and lay the planking. There should be three strips thr6ugh the center of the floor which will not be fastened to the beams but cut up in suit- able lengths and cleated together on the under side. These you can remove at any time to clean out the bilge'. The blocks for the lights are to be of cypress, lyi inches in thickness ; the sizes vary from io>^ to 12 inches square, according to the diameter of the glasses. The diameter of glass in the clear is 8 inches for the two after lights on either side and 7 inches for the forward ones, if you intend using fixed lights. If you have decided to use composition open ports they should be smaller; purchase those with the round frames, as they do not have to be cut into the planking, and present a much better appear- ance than the hexagonal frame light. If you can obtain the use of a lathe or get the blocks turned, you will save con- siderable work, and while they are in the lathe you can cut a rabbet ^4 inch deep on the face to receive the ceiling. Mark on the outside of the plank the position of the different lights and saw out the circle, then fit the blocks from the inside, cut to the shape of the planking and use plenty of screws or nails to secure them to the planking. The specifications call for the ceiling to be of cypress- ^ix2 inches, tongued and grooved, edges bevelled. Start the first strip close to the under side of the raised deck clamp, fit around the rabbet in the blocks and fasten to same and to the frames. After you have fitted four strakes you will find that the next strake will have to be cut at the forward end for a certain distance, as it will bear against the upper side of the clamp, and the next two strips will be shorter in length for the same reason. If you fit them carefully you will find that it looks well. The proper way to ceil this space would be to take a spiling and shape each piece so that there would be the same number of pieces at one end as at the other, but so that they would decrease in width as they neared the stem. There would be little or no advantage in ceiling a boat of this description in such a manner unless you were par- ticular, but that is the proper way to put in a ceiling. Work in the ceiling from the under side of the clamp to the upper edge of the bilge clamp and, with the exception of the toilet room, it will cover the inside of the frames. If you want to make the interior look well you can ceil from the under side of the bilge clamp in the toilet room to the floor. The companionway slide, runs, door frame, etc., can now be gotten out. They do not need any explanation, as the plans show the section of the hatch, etc. The specifica- tions call for them to be of mahogany, but if you prefer some other material, well and good — use it; but don't 32 use any wood that is apt to warp out of shape when exposed to the elements or you will have a leaky com- panion way slide. The doors, to look well, should be panelled and made of ii^-inch stock with panels at least Yz of an inch thick. The rubstreaks can be of oak or teak, 2 inches wide. If shaped as shown, it presents a better appearance than if it were half round. Fasten well through the planking into the frames and take care to have a fair curve, as the apipearance of such a boat can easily be -spoiled when the rubstreaks are set in position if they are not in a nice. the size of the rudder stock and it will make a good stuffing-box for such a rudder. I don't wish to convey the impression that a stuffing-box made in this manner is as good as having a proper one made, but, it is something that can be purchased most anywhere, and therefore would appeal to the amateur. The port should be carefully threaded into the knee and horn timber, and if you cover the thread with white lead and have it fit tight into the wood it will not leak. Fig. 6 shows, the dimensions of the rudder, and a simple way to make this is to buy a piece of hard rolled Tobin bronze % inch thick and cut * ITT^ ■■'■*'■ LOCKER Another Cabin Arrangement for the Nock 25 Foot Cabin Cruiser fair line, and there is really no excuse for them being otherwise, as you have your sheer line to work to. When you have arrived at this point you have prac- tically completed the hull. Fit a piece of ^ inch half- round brass to the stem, to protect it. and bore for th; rudder port if you have not already done so. For the rudder port you will need a piece of i inch brass steam pipe 18 inches in length. Have a locknut thread cut in the lower end 5 inches in length, at the upper end you will require a thread 2 inches in length. For the stuffing- box you can purchase a standard i-inch brass cap and also a small locknut of the same size. Bore the cap to it to the required shape. For the stock you will need a piece of Tobin bronze i inch diameter, 3 feet 8 inches in length. Have a machinist mill a slot in this stock to receive the blade ; square the head above the stuffing-box to receive the quadrant and turn the lower end down to }i inch diameter for a distance of Ij4 inches to form a pintle for the shoe to hold the lower end of rudder stock. You can either have the machinist rivet the blade in place or do this work yourself, as it is not difficult. A rudder made in this manner is well suited for so small a craft. The shoe you can bend up out of a piece of brass or bronze, but it is better to make a pattern and have this 33 cast. The quadrant is a standard article with d radius of 12 inches and can be purchased from any well-known dealer in boat hardware. For the steering wheel you can use either a drum steerer or one of the auto steerers if you prefer to haVe a horizontal wheel; in either case you will need a tiller rope about ^ inch diameter, and this can be led either between the staving in the cock- pit and the frames or else under the beams of the cock- pit deck. Wherever this wire rope, if you use wire, makes a sharp turn, it should run over a wheel with a diameter of not less than 2j^ inches. The interior can now be finished, and as I have shown two cabin plans, you can please yourself which you use, or perhaps you may have an idea of a cabin arrangement which would meet your requirements much better. Un- der any circumstances it is not worth while my explain- ing how to set up staving, bulkheads, seats, etc., for if you have finished your boat up to this point you will find that such work as this is of no trouble whatever. If you require any great amount of panel work, it would be cheaper to have this made where they have machinery, but I have purposely made the interior plain, thereby making it easier to construct. A word about the engine: if you intend to install it, take just as much care in making up the joints on the piping, etc., as you would in making the joints in the hull, for it is of the utmost importance, and no matter how long it takes, if done properlv, you will feel well repaid for your trouble. Use a seamless, drawn bronze or copper pipe for the gasolene supply, as this material does not de- teriorate like brass pipe or crystallize like block tin pipe. The proper methods of installing engines have been thoroughly explained in Motor Boat before in detail, therefore it would be useless for me to go into the mat- ter. The gasoFene tanks figured for this boat are cyl- indrical in form, lo inches diameter and 48 inches in length. They are to be situated under the cockpit deck, well out on either side of the engine. A small water tank can be fitted under the after end of the berths in the cabin if desired, and a pump could be set up at the sink to supply the water for cooking and washing, and, if one required it, a small folding lavatory could be fitted in the toilet room. The specifications mention the principal fittings, all of which can be purchased from any reliable dealer in boat hardware. The finishing of the boat is quite important, the top sides and under body should be planed smooth and fair, then sandpapered and primed. Before the second coat is applied the first coat should be well rubbed down with fine sandpaper, and the same treatment to be applied every time before you apply a coat of paint. The under body should be treated in a similar manner, only in this case you should apply either copper or some anti-fouling paint. The designed ivater line,- Or the line shown on the plans as the L. W. L. is supposed to represent the line of the water when the boat is afloat, and it is a good plan to mark a waterline on a boat of this size i^ to 2 inches above this line and paint up to this point with the same paint you use for the bottom, as it keeps the sides clean and adds to the appearance of the boat. This line should be marked on while the boat is in the stocks and scribed in with an awl, as it makes it easier to cut to such a line when painting. All the bright work, such as rubstreaks, cockpit staving, companionway, etc., should be treated. to one coat of filler, rubbed down and then have three coats of spar composition applied, each coat being rubbed down before the next is laid on. The canvas should receive one coat of canvas filler and two coats of deck paint. The in- terior bright work should have one coat of filler and two coats of a first-class interior varnish. When you have completed the boat she can be removed from the stocks and launched, and there is no need for any explanation how to proceed to launch this craft. Without doubt there are many minor things I have not mentioned that will have to be done, but I have gone into the matter in such a manner as I believe will make it plain to those who think of building a boat of this sort and have some fair knowledge of the use of tools. Specifications for Construction of a 25-foot Cabin Cruiser BY FREDERIC S. NOCK, EAST GREENWICH, R. I. Dimensions Length, overall 25 feet o inches Length, waterline 23 feet 4 inches Breadth, extreme 7 feet o inches Breadth, at waterline 6 feet 5 inches Draught, to Rabbet l foot 4 inches Draught, extreme 2 feet I V2 inches Material and Workmanship In carrying out these specifications, there are to be used only the best materials and workmanship. Proper care to be given to the details of construction, fastenings, etc. All wood shall be sound, clear and free from all defects, all pieces to be cut fair with the grain, and all knees, etc., to be natural crooks, all fastenings not otherwise specified to be of gal- vanized iron. Keel To be of native white oak, sided 3 inches, moulded as per plans and to be in One length, mill dressed to a uniform thick- ness and finished smooth. Stem To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, moulded as per plans, to be connected to the keel with an oak knee sided 3 inches, to be properly fitted- and fastened with ^-inch diameter bolts clinched over washers, heads to be countersunk and covered with wood plugs. Shaft-Log To be of white oak, sided^*3 inches, built up of two pieces, bored for shaft and to be securely fastened to the keel with 5-16-inch diameter bolts. Horn Timber To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, shaped as per plans, to be securely fastened through shaft-log and keel with 5-16-inch . diameter bolts. Stern Post To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, shaped as per plans, to be carefully fitted and well fastened to the keel, etc. Transom To be of oak, 1 14 -inch thick, to be connected fo the horn timber with an oak knee or hackmatack knee sided 2}^ inches and fastened with J^-inch diameter bolts. Cheek pieces of oak I inch thick are to be securely fastened to the inside edge of the transom to form a back rabbet and fasten the planking to. Frames To be of white oak, i^xi^ inches, spaced 9 inches center to center, frames wherever possible are to extend from gun- wale to gunwale in oiie piece, and to be securely fastened to the keel, frames aft of forward end of shaft-log are to be mortised into a cheek piece of oak 1 inch thick which same is to be well fastened to the keel and shaft-log and the lower edge cut to form a back rabbet for the garboard. Floors To be of white oak, ij^xi^ inches, to be securely fastened to the keel and through the sides of th{ frames, floors aft of forward end of shaft-log to be sawn -to shape, carefully fastened to the keel and through the frames. Bilge Clamps To be of yellow pine 154x4 '"ches amidship, tapered at 34 ends to l]/2X3'/2 inches, length of taper 7 feet, to be securely fastened through frames. Deck Clamps To be of yellow pine i}4x4 inches, upper and lower edges to be chamferred from forward end for a distance of 14 feet, to be securely fastened through frames and at each athwart- ship frame to have one fastening through clamp, frame and strake, heads of fastenings to be sunk in strake and covered with wood plugs. Raised Deck Clamp To be of yellow pine 15^x3;^ inches, lower edge bevelled, to be well fastened to the frames and at each alternate frame to have one fastening through cjamp, frame and sheerstrake. PlankiNg To be of yellow pine in long lengths, to finish J4-inch thick, where butts occur same to be reinforced with oak blocking and to be securely fastened, heads of fastenings to be covered with wood plugs. All fastenings to be of gal- vanized iron chisel point nails clinched on the inside of the fromes. Seams to be tight on the inside, and planed with a suitable bevel for calking, seams to be calked with yacht cot- ton, payed with white lead and finished flush with white lead putty, exterior to be carefully planed smooth and fair, and sandpapered before being painted, inside of plank to be coped to fit the frames wherever necessary. Keelson To be of oak or yellow pine, as desired, 2x4 inches, to be scarfed and fitted to knee at stem, and to be well fastened through floors and into keel. Engine Bed To be of oak, constructed to meet the requirements of the engine. Fore and aft bearers to be sided 3 inches, carefully fitted over frames and securely fastened to same, athwartship bearers to be sided 254 inches, to be carefuUy fitted to the plank and securely fastened to the keel and fore and aft bearers. Deck Beams To be of oak, sided i!4 inches, moulded i^ inches, spaced as per plans, to be cut with a crown oi lYz mches in five feet, ends to be mortised into deck clamp and well fastened. Raised Deck Beams To be of oak, sided i54 inches, moulded ij4 inches, spaced 9 inches, crown of beams S inches in seven feet, and to be either sawn to shape or steam bent as desired. Ends of beams to be cut into clamp and securely fastened to same and heads of frames. Raised Deck Covering Boards To be of oak, J^-inch thick, 3 inches in width, sprung to shape and securely fastened to the beams, clamps and sheer- strake. Raised Deck Plank To be of cypress %-inch thick, 3 inches wide, tongued and grooved and edges bevelled on the underside, to be well fastened to the beams, the top planed smooth and fair and covered with lo-ounce canvas properly stretched and bedded in white lead, edges to be fastened with copper tacks and covered with i54-'nch half round oak moulding. Deck Plank To be of white pine ^X2 inches, to be well fastened to the beams, heads of fastenings covered with wood plugs, seams I calked, payed with white lead and finished flush with white lead putty. Cockpit Deck Beams To be of oak, sided xYi inches, moulded 1^4 inches, spaced 18 inches center to center, ends of beams to be fastened to the frames and supported on stanchions in center. Cockpit Deck Plank To be of white pine ^x2 inches, to be well fastened to the beams, heads of fastenings covered with wood plugs, seams calked with yacht cotton, payed with_ white lead and finished flush with white lead putty, or if desired, deck to be covered with lo-ounce canvas properly stretched and bedded in white lead. Grub Beam To be of oak, 2x6 inches, upper edge to be rabbeted to re- ceive the- %-inch staving at after end of house, ends to be well fastened to the .frames. Cockpit Hatch and Coaming Coaming' to be of oak 1V2 inches thick, cut with a rabbet on the upper edge for hatch as per plans, after end of coam- ing to be securely fastened to the beam, forward end to be cut with a waterway as per plans and to be securely fastened to the grub beam, hatch frame to be of oak cut with a rabbet to fit the coaming, and covered with white pine ^ x 2 inches, seams calked as per deck or covered with canvas as desired, if canvas covered there is to be an oak nosing around same to cover the fastenings. Cockpit Staving To be of oak or cypress, ^x2 inches, tongued and grooved, edges bevelled, to be well fasfened to the clamp and lower ends set into a rabbeted piece o'f oak as per plans and securely fastened, forward end of cockpit seat and after end of house to be staved up in the same, material, a filler piece of spruce or some suitable material is to be worked to shape and fitted between the upper ends of staving and strake and securely fastened, and to this is to be fastened the upper ends of the staving. Cap To be of oak, i]4, inches thick, 5 inches in width, edges rounded, to be fitted over top of staving and upper strake and to be well fastened, heads of fastenings to be covered with wood plugs. Cockpit Seat and Lazy Back To be of mahogany %-inch thick, top of seat to be arranged to lift up, lazy back to be removable. Cabin Doors, Frame, Companionway, Hun and Slide To be constructed as per plans of mahogany. Forward Bitt and Towpost To be of oak or locust 4x4 i,nches, to be 12 inches in length, 6 inches above the deck, and the part that passes through deck is to have a slot mortised through same and to be wedged up K) the oak blocks with oak or locust wedges, there are to be two rivets in each bitt below the opening for wedges. Rubstreaks To be of oak, 2 iiiches wide, and about ^-inch thick, shaped as per plans, to be well fastened to the plank and frames. Blocks for Portlights To be of cypress, 1Y2 inches thick, shaped to fit the inside of the. planking and to be securely fastened to same, face to be cut with a rabbet J^-inch deep to receive the ceiling. Ceiling To be of cypress, fSx2 inches, tongued and grooved, edges bevelled, to be well fastened to the frames and to extend from the underside of the raised deck clamp to the top of transoms, etc. Cabin Floor Beams To be of oak, sided 1% inches, moulded i54 inches, spaced 18 inches, ends to be well fastened to frames and supported . in center where necessary. Cabin Floor Plank To be of yellow pine ^ of an inch thick, laid in strips 4 inches wide, the three center strips are to be cleated and cut up in short lengths to make suitable traps for access to the bilge, the balance of the plank to be well fastened to the beams. Forward Bulkhead To be of cvoress staving, ^x3 inches, tongued and grooved, edges bevelled, door to be of the same material to be well cleated to prevent warping. Center Bulkheads ^ ' To be of cypress staving, ^x3 inches, tongued and'grooved, edges bevelled. Transom Fronts To be staved up with JS^x3 inch cypress, mopboard 4 inches wide of cypress, and facing strip of either cypress or oak 3 inches wide. Transom Tops To be of cypress 5^-inch thick, to be supported on beams, and suitable traps to be cut in same to admit of using space under berths for storage. Galley, Etc. Sides of lockers, front of stove locker, ice-box, etc., to be built up of ^x3 inch cypress staving, locker doors of same ma- terial, ice-box top, shelves, etc., to be of ^-inch cypress, ice- box to be sheathed with 54-inch spruce and lined with zinc, stove space to be lined with zinc. An enameled iron sink 12x16 inches is to let into the top of the ice-box and fitted with a lead discharge pipe to drain overboard. Lockers on either side to hf fitted with shelves, etc., to meet the require- ments of the owner. Companionway Steps To be of oak or cypress, shaped as per plans and fitted with chocks for feet, also hooks and eyes for upper end, steps are to be removable to admit of starting engine. 35 Fittings, Etc. To comprise: — One small yacht closet properly set and plumbed, one 12x16 inch enameled iron sink properly plumbed, one Khotal or Primus two burner galvanized iron frame, two round frame open port lights 6 inches diameter for toilet room, four 8-inch round frame fixed lights and two 7-inch ditto for galley and cabin. All interior hardware, such as catches, hinges, bolts, etc., to be of brass or bronze. Brass or bronze stem band, bronze rudder, bronze shoe, brass rud- der port and stuffing-box, galvanized irorr quadrant, gal- vanized steel tiller rope, galvanized iron wheel leads for tiller rope, brass and wood steering wheel, one pair of polished brass bow chocks, one pair polished brass quarter chocks, brass padlock and hasp, etc. Scuppers in cockpit deck to be of lead pipe Ij4-inch diameter. Motor, Etc. To be a double cylinder 2 stroke engine, 4 inch bore, 4j4 inch stroke^ weight complete not to exceed 350 pounds. All accessories for eflgine, such as piping, fittings, gasolene tanks of 20 gallons' capacity each, shaft, propeller, stuffing-box, wiring, coil, magneto, etc., to be furnished complete. Painting, Finishing, Etc. Entire interior of hull to receive one coat of priming paint before being ceiled, exterior of hull to be finished smooth, and carefully sandpapered and given one coat of priming paint and three coats of pure white lead paint to tiic Vvater- line, underbody to receive two coats of copper or Anti-Foul- ing paint. All exterior bright work to be treated to one coat of filler and three coats of Spar Composition. House deck and all parts covered with C-J/ 0-3,2 c^-3.Z O'J-Z O-J-2 o-j-;e :e-f-3 C>-0.6 /-//-^ /-yz-3 /-/^-r r-e-o /-r-r o / a-jz-y o-^-o a :p-s- «9 -5';^ 0--^-^ a--^'^ Z-6-/ O-C-7 Z-C7 -?-^ V 2-CS- /-// -r^ /~//-o / ;z -^ 2-0-/ 2-2-£> e y a-^-j- 0.2-£ C-ii'-J 0-^-6 (p-r-f c-r--^ z-y/-^ o-z-a /-r-f /-r-.f- ^-■0-^ /S-2 /-//-/ r s 0-S--JZ o-a-j or-/ 0-8-0 a-S'^ i-//-j £>~^/-a /r-a-/ /-a-z y-/-4P /-2-2 /-■f^--^ 9 o-ff-7 C-9-0 o-s-o z-//-^ a-^-£ O- 0-£, O-C-6 a-c-6 0-0-6 tO-0-£ s Dimensions are given to outside of pla nk, in feet, inches, and eighths of inches 40 WL ze'i//> WL Z0 1//O W.l. /tU/o- «"■ rz-ayrs-a/rf //au/y A^^. / .//' /^^aU /^. ^ Af^uU M> S DETAIL OF HOLDS 41 -i'-i>f> v-V/A I 's ^ "^ -M.c. ze Ufi WL iO' 1//B -W.L /Z" 1/^ -w. L. za" I//0 -W.I.. Z'O" Up -Wi. / 2" U/> /Y^>it/yM. s in the notches at the corners of the molds and should be connected to the tfansom by knees and to each side of the keel at the fore end by oak blocks as shown in the sketch. The clamp is next run in by the same method, the size and material being the same as for the chine. If the notches for the clamp, the chine and the keel have been cut square to the edges of the molds you will notice that the clamp, chine and keel will not fit evenly into these notches but will bear on one edge of the molds as shown in the sketch ; particularly on the molds in the fore part of the boat. The notches must be trimmed down to the line shown in the sketcJi so that the clamp, chine and keel bear evenly on the molds and are then fastened in place by long brass screws or by long copper rivets if you so desire. The screws for fastening the chine and clamp should be about 2 inches long and those for the keel about 4 inches. The clamps on each side of the boat should be connected to each other and to the stern by a "breast hook," and should be kneed to the transom. The fore end of the chine is connected to the keel at the fore end by a triangular piece of oak which is shown in detail on the drawing of DETAIL OF MOLDS the fore erd of the keel. These pieces should be fastened to the sides of the keel by long rivets or by long brass screws. At the transom the chine is fastened by knees similar to ttiose used to secure the clamp The edges of the molds have been cut off square to the side of the molds, and if you take a long batten and bend it along the molds at the sides or the bottom, you will find that the batten touches only one edge of the mold and that the 'molds must be trimmed at an angle or level before a long batten will bear evenly on all the molds anywhere on the surface/ which is to be planked. This iDeveling is the next operation and is done most easily by using a spoke shave cutting down to the proper angle by trial with a batten or long thin straight piece of wood. One of the pieces of spruce J4 inch by 1 inch, which you will use later to run under the edges of the planks, will do very nicely for this work. After the molds have been beveled this batten should bend smoothly anywhere over the molds and should touch the full width of the mold edge. It will be noticed that where the chine is run in the notches that the bottom of the chine does not ex- actly carry out the line of the mold on the two for- ward frames, but should do so on the other molds. The bottom of the chine should be planed to carry out the form given by the molds, and, of course, the outside of the chine should be flush with the sides of the molds. The material for the battens, which are run fore and aft to cover the seams of the planking should next be prepared. For this you will need 16 pieces, each 20 feet long, of clear, straight-grained spruce 1 inch wide and Yi, inch thick. As may be seen on the midship section, the bottom planking consists of five planks on each side of the keel and the side planking of five planks above the chine. On the bottom, therefore, four of these bat- tens are required on each side of the keel and these should be spaced so that they divide the bottom at frame No. 4 into 5 equal parts. I believe you will find it a simpler job to run these bottom battens about parallel to the center line of the keel, as shown in the sketch. The batterns should be held in the desired position by wire nails through them into the molds, and after marks have been made where the edges of the battens cross the molds they should be taken off and notches cut to receive the battens. Care should be taken to"' have the inside edges of the battens bear snugly against the bot- 42 SKETCH SHOWING HOW BATTENS TO TAKE EDGES OF FLANH ABE ETTN ALONG BOTTOM OF BOAT torn of the notches, and to have the battens fair and smooth for the whole length. Where the bottom battens meet the chine they should be fastened to it by a couple of screws or rivets, as shown in the detail sketch. At the stern these battens are let into the frame which is fastened to the fore side of the transom and fastened to it by a screw through the end of the batten. The battens for the sides should be run in and notched into the molds in exactly the same fashion ; they should be spaced to divide the side into five planks of about equal width, and should be fair and smooth throughout their length and should be flush with the molds, con- nect the pairs on the opposite sides of the boat where they come together at the stern by a breast hook and let them into the frame on the transom just as you did the bottom battens. These battens, both along the bottom and the sides, should be fastened to the molds by 2-inch brass screws with the heads well countersunk into the battens. When this is finished you will have a good idea of the form of the boat and will doubtless find it different from anything you have seen before. She is flat forward and flat aft with a fairly sharp section right amidships. The flat sections at the ends are so designed to give her a big lifting power. When running at full speed she really breaks the water with the sharp V-ed section of her forward plane, and this sharp section will make her easier and faster in rough water than she would be with a flat plane. After trimming up the rabbet in the keel and stern, which may be done by laying a J|-inch thick strip along the battens and fitting it into the rabbet on the keel and stern, the boat is ready for planking. The material of the planking as called for on the midship section, is ^ inch mahogany, but clear white cedar or white pine could be used equally well. Mahogany is more ex- pensive but it is also much stronger and will take a bet- ter finish than the other woods. It is also somewhat heavier but the difference in weight is much more ap- parent when the wood is dry than it is after the boat has been in the water for some time. Start planking the bottom first and fit the garboards into the rabbet in the keel and have the other edge come on the center of the first batten. In order to do this you will have to take a spiling, using a thin board clamped or lightly nailed in place and marking off the points on it after the fashion which has been explained again and again in Motor Boat. Owing to the curvature of the hollow V-ed sections you will doubtless find it necessary to make the garboard and the next plank somewhat thicker and then work this hollow into the planks with a plane. The planks should be fastened to the keels and to the battens with copper nails riveted over burrs and fastened to the mold and stern by screws. Set the heads of the rivets and screws flush with the outside of the plank as the plank is too light to allow any countersinking and plugging without weakening the fastening unduly. The fore end of the garboard should be carried on out a little beyond the outside of the chine, and at the after end the garboard should butt against the flat of the tran- som. The same is true of all' the other bottom planks. After the garboard has been fitted, and fastened in place, the next plank should be cut to the proper shape, and so on, each plank being cut from a spiling taken similarly to DETAILS OF KEEL, STEM, CHINE AND KNEES, SHOWING THEIH CONNECTION AT BOW 43 Section iV-s 8 ^edionN^dl Section N^? Section N^ I -1* Section N^6 Section N^S Secfion N^O KEEL SEOTIOirS ?ulfdfeT;e^??h?IiS°af thf /"" ' T' ""'^ ^^^ ^^^ up against the flat ai2 \ ^°'^ ^"''' ^"'^ ^'^o^ld butt D ank h J 1. "^"^ ° P^'"^ 'h'^kly that part of the S'^or a Je^v thi„?.Tr' '^' edge batten with wh^e SraiTtt^ hf f^^^^ be^iUrbout tt^ the'^^t^K/'the'jiatLT^ "^'' " '^'°" ^^^'^'' "'^^ oui^fje'edee ofiCrSf J'''rf°'^-P'l'^'y P^^""^^-^' ^""1 the ou s de line n/ttt Pv"*" ""^'l'' '? '^"^^ and fair with the tVnHJrJ : ^^ ''^'"^' 3^ the side planks are to be ex- irlmsmJl^t^l '" P"l°"' ?«ingthe planks to shape stated IhnviTi, 7?"- ^^'"^^-"^ 1^°"°™ plank, as s^?af ?h:- boTiXri^ei^l tc%td ^L^ie^^^ f/ "IfrihThl.T'^ ^^ the'cEi^e^dgeTatteS a^n'd da^p! =n^! 'h^h"' has been planked, smooth up the endre surface, first going over all rivet heads with a file to 7et them flush wuh the wood, using emery cloth to brS facT'^Thls 'smooth'"' "°°^ '"/"^^^' ^° a°smooth'sur' as much of T"^. "P 'S°^ ^^^ """°^t importance, surface fraction T/''^"'^" °K? hydroplane is*^ due to sunace friction. After smoothing up, mve the hull j. good coat of wood filler, allow if to dvTard and then sandpaper again Then give the bottom a thorough S of varmsh or bottom paint, whichever you desfre I would be wise to use at least two, or better three coas of varnish or of bottom paint, but since this prelfminarv coat IS given merely to allow us to put on the brass ' plane and since the parts of the hull that are not cov ered by the plane can be finished and painted "a ter It woud be a ted:ous and perhaps unnecessary delay to wa for the drying of these successive coats You are now ready to put on the brass plane. This is made of hard sheet brass, about one-sixteen h of an inch thick The total length of the plane is 4 feet 5 Ztl- ^^^ P""*''^" °\ '^^ P'^"^ 's ^hown on the in board profile, extending from the fore side of frame No ' 6 to the after side of frame No. 4. The appearance of the step formed by the plane is shown in'^a sketch As may be seen, oak wedges, 2 inches deep at the step are spaced about 5/. inches apart. The bottoms of^these wedges are straight Imes, and taper out to nothing at the fore side of frame No. 6. The wede-e at the k^^i T= made the full width of the bottom of the'^Lel, for itti not be possible to get one sheet of brass of the width re- quired. The two pieces of which the plane must be com- posed come together down the middle line of this middle wedge and must be very thoroughly secured to this wedge with brass screws, spaced not over an inch apart The wedges are fastened to the floors of frames Nos 4 and 5 by long brass screws, put in from the outside, and be- tween the frame screws are put down from the inside of the plank into the wedges. After the wedges are all on fair up the surface defined by the wedges by bending a thin strip of wood over them, and noting whether it lies smoothly over all the strips. Plane up the bottoms of the wedges until you can do this. The brass plates are next secured in pace. At the fore edge they are screwed through the plank into the floor on frame No. 6 using lyi-mch brass screws spaced as shown in the sketch 44 Ult^'fleff- MIDSHIP SECTION Do not let the fore edge of the plane into the plank, as this would cause weakness at this point. Simply file it down at a bevel; it will make very little resistance, as at extreme high speeds the boat will practically run on the plane itself and not on the forward part of the planking. The planes must be fastened to each of the wedges by brass screws, spaced about three inches apart along the line of the wedge. All screwheads should, of course be flush. Particular care must be taken to have the fastening at the forward edge of the plane very carefully done, for if it were possible for the wat-er to force its way under this plane, it would soon rip it off. The after part of the plane at the step is left entirely open. When at rest, water may flow into the -space be- tween the outside of the planking and the upper side of the plane, but as soon as the boat is under way, it will drain out. If you wish to make a very fancy job, set the screw heads a little bit below the level of the brass, and then put a drop of solder over the heads. Next file this solder down flush, but there is no great need of doing this, if the slots in the screw heads are all placed in a fore and aft line, and the solder would be a great hin- drance should you wish to remove the plane to get at the hull underneath. The plane should be finished by being polished by emery, either a fine emery cloth ■ or emery flour. You are now ready to tuin the hull over and put on the deck. The beams are shown on the molds, which give the curvature as part of a circle having a certain radius. These circular arcs can be easily drawn in by taking a long strip of wood, driving a wire nail into one end of it, measuring off the required radius from this nail, and drilling a small hole through which you may put the point of a pencil, then use this just as you would a compass to draw the arc. The top of the clamp and the top of the upper side plank should be cut to carry out the curve shown by the beams. The general scheme of deck construction is exactly that of the planking, but the material is somewhat lighter, and is of the size shown on the midship section. The length of cockpit shown will do very nicely for a 40 or 50-h.p. motor, but, of course, if you intend to install a large motor, you will have to carry the cockpit one frame farther forward. This is something that you can readily determine for yourself, and depends on the motor chosen. Put in the spruce stringer to which the cockpit coaming is to be fastened, making it 1 inch by Wi inches, and running it in the notches inside of the upright parts of the frames. Run this stringer only between the beams at fore and after ends of the cockpit. Screw this stringer to each mold, and between each mold and the consecutive one put in two short blocks, filling the space between the clamp and this stringer. Then using a long one-eighth- inch rivet, make a thorough fastening at these points be- tween the stringer and the clamp. At the fore end of the cockpit, pine cornerpieces about 2 inches thick should be cut out, to take the curve of the (kM-Kf^ cockpit. If you are experienced, you could of • ^' ' 'f course change the fore end of the cockpit to the more fashionable flared V type of coaming. Fair up the upper edge of the cockpit stringer to the lines indicated by the beam in the clamp, and then arrange edge battens of spruce 1 inch wide and half an inch thick, to eo under the edges of the deck plank, as shown on am-.dship section. This deck is shown in fairl> wide pieces, only one-fourth of an inch thick, and shoulc be easily applied if the battens are spaced about as showr on the amidship sections, and are run fore and aft, practi cally parallel to the center line of. the boat. Notches foi n n HALF SECTION, FOBWARD FACE OF TEANSOM SECTION AT AFT END OF STEP LOOKING FOEWAHD 45 T^ z. * %t$r':^ y^ " ^/r^SS FASIENINe AT FOBE EDGE OF PLANE SKETCH SHOWING HOW NOTCHES IN MOLDS ARE TRIMMED TO - TAKE C«INE AND CLAMP SKETCH SHOWING CONNECTION OF SEAM BATTEN TO CHINE OR CLAMP the battens should be cut after the method uSed for the edge battens of the plank. The deck plank should be fastened with screws and rivets similar to the method used on the planking. Carry the planking to the outside of the side plank. Then trim it off smoothly and fairly with the side, covering the joipt with a 1-inch haff round of mahogany. A deck built after this fashion is light, strong and tight, but is not- as handsome as the canvas deck, or the deck laid in narrew pieces'. The coaming is of oak or mahogany, J^ of an inch th'ck. If prine or cedar is used for p'lank -and deck, oak might be used for the coaming, but it w6uld, of course, be impossible to use oak on a mahogany planked boat. The coaming should be 434 inches above the deck at the fore end, 3J^ inches at the aft 'end. The detail of- fitting the coaming is extremely simple, and space prohibits going into it in this article. Slatted floors, about y% of an inch thick, are shown on the plan. It is advisable to make these floors so that they may be removed in sections, as in this way you will be able to get at the bottom of the boat without ripping up the floor. The steering wheel of the simple drum type is shown placed on a thwart, an arrangement which gave unusually good satisfaction in Water Bug and is reproduced here. If the motor is exceptionally long, it niay perhaps be necessary to dispense with this thwart and use a vertical post with a horizontal steering wheel In getting in the shaft line, fhe approximate position of the shaft hole is readily seen from the drawing. Bore a comparatively small hole at about the position shown, putting on a small btock on the keel to start the hole through the shaft at the bevel. Then from a point at the proper distance below the transom, as indicated on the drawing, pass a wire through this hole to the point shown on the mold as indicated, stretching the wire very tight. Then cut out around this hole, until it is large enough to clear the propeller shaft that you intend to use. The shaft line shown on the plans will take an 18-inch or 19-inch propeller. If you intend to use only a 16-inch propeller, it is advisable to decrease the shaft line from the bottom of the boat at the transom by about an inch. Use your common sense in making these allow- ances, as it is impossible to design a hydroplane to carry any old size of motor, and have everything work out to certain fixed dimensions. The motor bed is formed by fore and aft spruce stringers, set on the floor inside of two 3-inch by li^-Jnch spruce stringers; the lighter stringers run the full length of the boat, and are fastened . ^ce^e/Zcj-Ji^iA 32. :T/rot//a/er ya/ber /?. 'ar/ber rvr? b^^-^^^ l it o,^ -^'/^/Z'. /=i.^^//e/ ATev^ ] METHOD OF SECURING PROPELLER TO SHAFT to the floors by long rivets running clear through the stringers and through the floors. The heavier bed stringers are notched over the floors and are also riveted to them, but extend only the length required by tTie motor and reverse gear. The transmission gear to drive the propeller shaft is a thing concerning which it is almost impossible*- to give definite detailed dimensions, unless the motor is kno\yn, its power known, in order to estimate the stresses which the gear must withstand. The gear should be made by an experienced machinist of the very highest class, one ' accustomed to high grade automobile construction will know about what is required, as this transmission is similar in general principle and in thg degree of skill required in its manufacture to that used on cars. The case should be of aluminum, about one-fourth of an inch thick, for a 50-hp. motor and about 5/16 of an inch thick for a 100-hp. motor. Lugs should be cast at the sides to carry the gear on a foundation built to receive it. This foundation, although it need not be extremely long, should be very substantial, is all the thrust of the pro- peller comes upon it, and besides that it is under con- siderable twist, due to the propeller and motor torque. The casing should have both, the front and back all in one casting, as a much more accurate machine job can be obtained, than when one of the faces is made as a cover plate and bolted up against the rest of the casting. If made as Suggested, a cover plate at the top serves to introduce the gears, through which the shafts are slipped afterward. The drawing- shows clearly the type of trans- mission gear, advised. It is, of course, of the ball-bearing type, using annular ball-bearings of liberal size. The propeller shaft is fitted with a ball-thrust bearing for both reverse and ahead motion. In the, gear shown, tjie upper gear on the motor shaft has 37 t-eeth of six pitch ; the lower gear has 36 teeth of 6 pitch. This geat is suit- able for about a 60-hp. motor. The gears have IJ^-inch face, and the sbaCts are about 13/16 inches in diameter. The gears are held on the shafts by parallel feather keys. The casing is of aluminum, Yn, of an inch thick. It should be nOted that a filling plug for oil is placed at the top of the casing, a drain plug at the bottom, and an oil level plug at the side. For the larger powers it would be advisable to use gears of 5 pitch instead of 6 pitch, and always make the number of teeth on the two gears so that they are numbers that are prime to each other. If you do this, then every tooth on one gear will eventually come into every space, in turn, on the other gear, so that wear will be evenly distributed. The gears wear in and run more quietly after having been in use for a time, than they do when new. If the gears have a num- ber of teeth, such that they are divisible by the same factor, for instance, 48 teeth on one and 32 teeth on the other, both being divisible by 16, this distribution of wear' is not accomplished ; the gears wear unevenly, and become noisy. The gear material, the- shafts and in fact every part of this transmission must be of the very highest quality. Special alloy steel should be used for the gear blanks, and after being accurately cut, they should be hardened. In designing the case . for the gears, be sure to leave ample clearance all around the gears, in order 46 to prevent your transmission from actiiig as a gear pump. A universal joint is shown between the motor and the gear. This should be of ample size and is quite safe in this position, as it takes no thrust and is .run at a comparatively small angle. Of course it could be elimi- nated, provided bevel gears at the proper angle were used in the transmission instead of spur gears, but bevel gears are mucTi more expensive, are much more difficult to fit properly, and are apt to run noisily. Then, in ad- dition, the universal joint provides for a certain amount of flexibility between the motor and transmission, which is very useful in hydroplane construction. The strut and rudder present no unusual features, ex- cept that the rudder is hung at the bottom of the strut and at the top of the transom. The sizes are indicated it the joints. The strut is bolted through the back of the transom, one bolt at the back of the large palm going through the knee between the transom ■and keel. The bottom of the palm is wide, and has two bolts, the centers of which are about six inches apart, and go through the transom into an oak chock about 10 iiiches long and 2 in.ches deep by 2^4 inches in a fore and aft direction. These bolts should be about ^ of an. inch in diameter, and should be of bronze. The nuts should be at the out- side, so that the strut may be removed, without crawling in under the deck. Sketches sho;y how the propeller wheel may be applied to the shaft, either using a straight bore through the propeller, with a small shoulder at the fore end of the hub, and securing the wheel by a key and taper pin, or by using a tapered bore and nuts at the fore and aft ends of the propeller hub. The straight shaft and taper pin is much simpler, but it is much more difficult to remove a propeller than when the tapered bore and nuts are used. The water intake should be carried near the garboard", a little forward of the step, going down through the brass plane. An alternative arrangement would be to have the water intake project just a little below the plane coming down throtigh the hull, just aft of the step. For those who desire to work out their own construc- tion, using perhaps a lighter, simpler scheme, the line drawing and offset table are given. If a big, heavy motor is to be used, the arrangement will work out better if the motor is placed aft and the crew forward of the motor, an arrangement which possesses many advantages; but in working out such an arrangement, it is necessary to know the definite motor weight, and should -any of the readers desire to use this arrangement, I shall be glad to advise them where the center of the motor weight should be placed if they will furnish the necessary data regarding the motor sizes and actual motor weight. /y/7/r4 /-/o% /-//% 2'J/>. 3-¥/z ¥-7% z V-J/^ 2-9/z Z'S% z-6>yz 3-/'^/i UZ/df-hs Deck /">/4 /-/oy^ J-/ 3-ir/t. J'/Z/i 3-/0'/z «3-6'/v Z'//'/* z-z H/aterUhe.-/ •-«?/z /--7/x Z-//7w o?-g-^ 3-//% 3-yf'/^ 3-(h/z Z-9 // -e'/'* /-i/-y^ Z-»i4 3-6/v 2>'/0'/v 3-9'/t .3-V z-s L^t^.L -0? /-/'A z-^u 3-Z/x 3-6^/» J-6/v z-// /-y/v /u' -^/* -Sr'A /-^'/^ Z-7''/^ J-% 3~0 z-/v^ -s \/ '/0% /-a/^ 2'Z/'^ z-/ /-'/* -/^/i " \^l '6 /-O - // -J^y Df'aepojoa/-^ /-/'/v 2-/ 3-J- V-/:JV ^'SVt ^-■j- //~o 3-3/2. 3 -// /-^'/y Z-3 Z-S/'^ Z-ZO^'f 2'/0'/v 2-*^% /'/ y^o^j are a// spacec/ if ^eetc a/o^ JZfeef a/^eac/ ofy*fc?u/<^ / l.lV.L. be/r)(? '3 fe&f abotre fy •^t^arf- exce/pf A/?/, a/h/'c^ /J Jij^^efc^/^f o/^j/e/9? VPiZ. H/afer f/nc^ are 6//)che5 cfpart fhe. he base, /me, fromw/j/c/f a// /te/cf/if'J are. r7?ea^c/r€Ci C OiUftock //r7e5 at ^e :$/?acec/ /Z/r?c/fes cf/oart C)/a^oti 1 1 : » 1 » ] fv ■^' ^ 1 K ? ?' ?' 7 / «M I ^ ft- o. I J/l/f 'i"^ J'/.f \\ i 1 >«5 I s 1 I I 7/«f 7 mo,Mt j/e sj ou!7»se>g v^— n^.. '^'~:b',t ' . \ \i L 1 .^ \\\ y-'-^ 1 \\ .°':l .' 1 1 1 1 1 «■ ^ 1 .%l:l 1 1 .*'' 1 1 J .11 2- S^ r ' ..II $ 1 1 ^ / s V. / ' 5 ^ ^ / , 1 « ■V / '' 1 r\ ■S t rf \ "0 1 / / , J •^ y in ■"■* 1 :J'I ■1 1 r 1 it .'"^ \ 1 ![ -"' o /// '•'''' o •s y ijj^ ' ' > ♦i j/^y.^^ « «i ^ ^\ § -» -- J_- 4 up out of the way to the rafters overhead, which you can't do on the ground. It prevents a lot of stumbling and dodging around the shores. Give the keel >a coat of l«ad colored paint to preserve it where it is securely braced up plumb and true. Then get out your molds and as these are only temporary a cheap grade of pine about an inch, or better yet, an inch and a quarter thick can be used. To shape all these by hand with a drawknife and saw is a tedious operation ; if tliere is any place where you can get access to a band sa\y for an hour or so you could easily saw out the various pieces and put them together at home. Where you have to join two pieces together butt one against the other and then nail or screw with iron screws a cleat across the two to hojd them. Keep all cleats and braces on the same side. Let the top end of each mold extend up four to six inches above the true sheer line so that you can run a batten up above this line and can leave it there until after you have the topstrake on to keep her deck edge fair and true. It is not necessary to bevel the molds ; you do that- by setting each of the molds forward of the center, 4, 3, 2 and i, so the smooth side of the mold faces aft and is just flush with the mold marks on the keel,- and the after ones 6, 7 and 8,. the reverse way; by this the smooth edge represents the true shape re- quired and when you put the battens on chisel away and bevel the mold's edge until it fits flat against the mold. Be very careful to set each mold exactly to its mark and to set it and brace it perfectly plumb. If the under side of the cross-spall — the wooden brace across the top of the mold — be planed up true before it is fastened to the mold it will be found of great assistance in setting the mold level. You can hold a spirit level up under this edge and tap the mold to one side or another until the bubble sights true in the center of the level, and the plumb bob, hanging from the center marks on the cross- spall, is plumb over the center scratch line along the top of the keel. Keep all the braces you can up overhead so that they will not interfere with your working around the boat, and cross them X shaped, as they go up to the rafters; by this arrangement you can get a more rigid brace than if they simply go straight up from the head of the mold. The whole business could swing like a parallel ruler that way, but the X brace is firm. Before you can run the ribbands around you need the transom, the shape of the face of which is given along with the mold shapes. Do not cut it out to this shape however, as, due to the bevels, it' needs to be an inch -and a quarter wider on the bottom edge but no larger across the top where it bevels under from the line, and around the edge it may even take more. With sufficient wood left outside the line you can, after bending the curvature in the face of the transom, clamp-screw it to the small knee and by bending battens around the molds cut and fit it accurately.-' All these bevels could, be laid out on the floor in the full-sized drawing, but it goes into aMot of projection and drawing, too difficult to attempt to ex- plain here. Motorboat Handbooks, volumes i and 2, will Tielpi the amateur over a number of difficulties, as there pre spftial articles in these books on laying down a set of lines, how to project a transom, an explanation of the meaning- of a Table of Offsets, an article on how to cut the rabbet Une, etc. The transom is shpwn drawn to the outside of the planking. If you are going: to let the plank fit flat against the edge of it you will have to take off the thickness of the plank from the shape shown, but as that does not look very neat on a job of this kind, due to the curve in the face of the transom, it would be better to bevel the front edge of the transom so that the plank ends make a seam right around the corner and are fastened to oak backing pieces screwed fast to the inside of the transom around the edee? 53 ^ktii A'CS ^h& Anee if stem /s made, from a 9traii)ht stick t L ifie 3'-o- Uppey jJ^efch j/iouis c/eaa^oi/ood/ a// cu/' oott of one piece o^ oak Lowsr 5kstc/i jhows hoou // may loe bo §\ l\ held the molds, and nail cross braces to hold the frame apart to its proper width at each mold space. Measure carefully just where the top edge of the 6 x iJ/$- inch yellow pine clamp is to come, which is the thickness of the deck %-inch and the depth of the frame i>4-inch below the deck edge ; 2% inches in all. This clamp is the binder that holds the top ends of all the frames true into line. Although it is 6 inches deep in the middle, it should be tapered to about 4 inches in depth at the ends, and if you have a power planer handy, its thickness might be reduced to i]4 or lyi inch at the ends to help it bend, for it makes a pretty stubborn piece to handle. Steam it well before you try to bend it in place and you can then edge set it up or down, as you will find you have to, due to the tumble-home of the topsides, which point the ends down. It takes two pieces 32 feet long to get out these clamps, or one piece of 4 x 6-inch stuff ripped in two. There are two brlge clamps oh each side of 3 x 6-inch yellow pine, and though they may be a foot or so shorter, it would pay to order them all the same length, 32 feet, as the saw-mill would probably have to rip them all out of one big piece of yellow pine to get the length. Use ^-inch galvanized carriage bolts to pull the clamp and bilge stringers snug to the frames at every other frame and then, when you bend the shelf in against the clamp, put a through bolt at every other frame clean through the whole lot, frame, clamp and shelf. This will give a stiff, rigid^ deck edge that will resist any bangs she may get alongside a dock. Cut the forward ends of these clamps and stringers so that they butt flat up against the stern and transom. Frame .the deck before you start in to plank her up and it will be easier to work. The deck beams. are all cut round- ing with a "crown" or curve of 5 inches in 7 feet. Saw the deck beams out. Don't bend them. Bent ones have a way of flattening down again and there are not very many of them. Cut a wide thin board so that it forms a "she"' pattern of this curve, and by trying this pattern at inter- vals along her deck you can make sure of getting all the short beams along the cabin space set true to the,curve. The deck beams are ^ x i>4-inch with an esAra heavy ono at the forward end of the cabin and at the after end of ti.c cockpit where the deck ends. These beams should be about ij^ by 2 or 2j4 inches. Nail each of these deck beams fast to the clamp with a long, galvanized iron wire nail and under the inboard ends of them run a piece of spruce 3 inches deep by 2 inches thick fore and aft and nail them fast to it. Go carefully over the frames with a batten before you start to plank and see that all the frames are true. Shave off a little here and there wherever a frame presents a hard edge, and when you are sure the frame is all true, start and plank her up. It will take about 500 square feet of J^-inch cedar boards to do this. Buy "dressed" — as planed-up lumber is called — and insist on good, clear lumber. You can't expect to get cedar without knots, but shun all sap, which is the bluish cast found near the edges inside the bark. Knots are solid but the sap turns to a soft punk that is apt t^ produce leaks. All small knots that show a black ring around them should be reamed out after the boat is planked and wooden plugs dipped in shellac driven in and sawed off flush. There is no royal road to planking up a boat. I have had many people ask me if they can't make one pattern, and get a mill to saw them all out for them, th'at will plank up the whole boat. You cannot do this. Every plank re- quires a different shape, though the one pattern will, of course, do for both sides. Take a "spiling," as boat builders call it, for the top strake. For this you want some very thin planks — about six in all — 14 to 16 feet long, say 6 to 8 inches wide, and about ^-inch thick. Tack this spiling board lightly to the frame as nearly as it will.,go without being forced side- 57 q: o LU 1- Z (» M K^ ~!^' X. y >< H 2 UJ <5 X X X X > X J m 68 ways and into tke place where the topstrake is to fit. If it touches the sheer line at about mold number three it will be several inches too low at the ends. This board will give you the curve as far as amidships, aft tack another one the same way, and where the two lap amidships tack thein to- gether. Then, get a pair of carpenter's dividers. Set them to span the greatest space between the sheer line and this spiling board — screw the dividers so as to hold the'ir legs apart — and from the sheer line at about every other frame prick off on this spiling board this distance; then by care- fullv removing these boards and laying them out flat on the plank, you are going to cut the topstrake out, if you can prick this distance back onto it and get the curve to cut the top edge so that when bent around the-frames it will fit true along the sheer line. The lower edge of this plank is then marked out by bending a long thin batten so Have the plank squeezed up good and hard to the frames with screw clamps, putting a chip under the foot of it so that it will not bruise the surface of the plank and rivet the plank on. Where the clamps will not permit riv- eting use flat-head brass screws "fj4 or 2 inch, No. 10. Scrape a little coarse brown washing soap onto the threads and the screws will turn in easier. Or if you can't affotd screws use galvanized iron boat nails. Use your spiling board again to find the shape of the top edge of the next two boards and in this way put on about three strakes of top planking. As the top plank is a sort of binder, many prefer to make that board of quartered oak or of yellow pine. Yellow pine is good and you easily can get that kind of wood in lengths- long enough to make it all in one piece. Then spile. in the same manner for the shape., of >the gar- >ec T/ot, cy/ y^o/^ A/°' <^- -Z'*l" Mahoars ■^3%^" oak k