UC-NRLF

►

Nine Motorboats

AND

How TO Build Them

Second Edition

A Book of Complete Building
Plans and Instruction, which
contains all necessary informa-
tion for the amateur who
wants to build his own boat.

NEW YORK

THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING COMPANY

iio-iia WEST 40th STREET

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CONTENTS

Page

. . 7-15

"Pop Gun"— A 20-Foot Runabout
Designed by C. G. Davis

A 25-Foot Cruiser

. . 16-36

A Single Step Hydroplane

. . 37-47

"Sunfish"— A 32-Foot Day Cruiser

. . 48-60

"Mollyhawk"— A 28-Foot Cruiser
Designed by C. G. Davis

. . 61-74

"Beaver" — A 23-Foot Cruiser

. . 75-92

A 25-Foot Runabout

. . 93-109

A Dead Rise Runabout

. . 110-113

A Light-Draft Stern-Wheel Boat

. . 113-119

268523

*' Pop-Gun " — ^A Twenty-Foot Runabout

THIS little runabout, named Pop-Gun by one who saw
a model of her, is a 20-footer of such simple con-
struction that anyone can undertake her construc-
tion with certainty of success — that is, anyone who knows
enough of the use of tools to build a box. All that is
needed is a knowledge of how to use a saw, how to plane
the edge of a board straight, and how to nail lumber to-
gether. There are very few curved cuts to be made, and
nearly every cut is along a straight line that may be
snapped with a chalk-line or drawn with a straight edge.
In fact, the designing of a boat like this is the hardest
part, and that is done.

Simplicity in every feature has, of course, been the
leading object in designing Pop-Gun, but simplicity is
quite possible in a very good little runabout, and Pop-
Gun will prove a handy, serviceable, sturdy boat that will
carry several people easily, and travel along at about
eight miles an hour with a 3-hp. mot6r.

The construction of a round-bottomed boat requires
considerable skill other than that necessary to use the
tools. The shaping of each frame and plank is quite an
art; but in this boat the construction is so simple that
anyone should succeed in producing a good boat. We
will take each piece of wood in turn and tell you just
how to shape it.

First come the three patterns, or molds, that give you
the desired shape. These are shown clearly and with all
the necessary dimensions marked on them for repro-
ducing them full size. A large sheet of brown wrapping

paper will do if a clean board floor is not available to
draw them on.

Take the shape of the middle mold, No. 2, for exam-
ple. Draw a straight line horizontally across the paper
or floor and with a large, steel carpenter's square draw
a center line, which we show here dotted at right angles
to it. Each side of this center line measure off 2 feet
4>^ inches, which represents the width of the boat at the
deck to the inside of the planking. Eighteen and one-
quarter inches below this — the distance given in the plans
of the molds — draw another horizontal line and measure
f out two feet each side^— that distance, i8j4 inches, repre-
sents the vertical depth of the side plank, which of course,
if measured on the angle will be a fraction longer; 19
■finches it really is. Four and three-quarter inches below
the second line draw another short one representing the
keel and measure out three inches each side, the keel being
six inches wide. By drawing lines connecting these spots
you have the outline of the mold. The- others are found
in exactly the same way, using the distances marked on
the plans. Wooden patterns have to be made of these
three molds so that when properly spaced and set up the
planks forming the boat can be bent around them. This
causes quite a little strain to come on the molds, so do
not build them so flimsily that they will give or break
under the strain, and cause your boat to be built crooked.

in Figure I I have .shown one method of putting to-
gether a mold, and in Figures 2 and 3 other ways are
shown. It matters little which way you build them: the

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Mould No- 1.

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Mould No-5

Transom

one that cuts up your available wood to best advantage
is the one to use. Cleat the various pieces securely to-
gether and nail a brace about 4 inches wide by i inch
thick across the heads of each mold. Mark the center
line at top and bottom to assist you when you come to
set the molds up along a center line. Don't cut up ex-
pensive wood for molds, for they are only temporary
affairs that will be thrown away when the boat is built.
The transom is to be cut out of l^-inch oak to the
size and shape given. Try to get good dry, seasoned oak
and, if possible, a piece wide enough to make the tran-
som in one piece. If you can't get this, make it of two
pieces but keep the seam between the two well up, so that
it will be out of water most of the time, and therefore not
be liable to leak. Saw it out to the given shape with
square edges. The bevels necessary to let the plank lay
flat on it can be planed off later, when it is set up, by
bending a board over the molds so that it touches the
transom and then planing off the after edge until the
plank lays flat on the transom. (Figure 4.)

If the transom must be made of two pieces, plane up
the two edges that are to meet so that they make a per-
fect fit. You can soon tell whether they do or not by hold-
ing them up to the light of a window or lamp (Figure 5)

and the light shining
through the crack of
the seam will soon
show you where the
high spots are. Mark
them and run a shaving
off, and then try again.
Keep at it till you make
a perfect fit. The ama-
teur is very apt to try
to do this with a short
plane ; most amateurs
show a preference for
the smoothing plane but
if they will take a long
"jointer" plane they
will get better results.

The amafeur ^enem/Zy /?as
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c/o/jis fences antf /loMs //<^
^oaraf betu/een them co^'^^
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A strong, neat joint can be made by dowelling these
two together. Lay the two pieces of the transom flat on
floor and rule about four straight lines across both; but
be sure to have them square to the seam and parallel with
each other (Figure 6), not staggered, as in Figure 7.
If they are put, as shown in Figure 7, you can never
drive the two together as the dowels will bind and pre-
vent this. The holes must be very carefully bored so that
they will not run and come out through the side of the
board. Clamp one piece of the transom in a bench vise
if you are using one or get down on your knees, as nine-
tenths of the amateurs have to, and hold it between yoiir
knees. By looking squarely down on it you can tell pretty

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accurately whether the bit is running true or not. A
good way to get the bit started true is to tack a straight-
edged stick against the face of the board opposite the
hole. With this guide you can keep the shank of the bit
true by your eye. Figure 8 illustrates this point clearly.
Bore in to a depth of about four inches into each side.
Don't try to make the bit cut too fast — just press on the
handle of the bit with one hand and after you have cut
in a couple of inches pull the bit out and run your hand
down it to sweep the shavings out of the worm of the

FIGl-9

ria///n^ jur/ace /arMe s/i/as aff^ Ga//dn7 Jboardc.

screw. If you feel the steel is quite hot you know you
are crowding the bit too fast. Crowding too hard is what
causes the bit to run out to one side and may cause the
point of it to come out through the side, disfiguring your
transom. Some people lay on a brace and bit and put all
their weight into it and then wonder why the bit gets bent
or cuts crooked. Give the cutting point time to do its
work. A bit isn't a conductor's punch ,to be pushed
through by force — turn it. Dip the ends of the dowels
into some liquid glue before you drive them into the
transom.

In order to give a' better nailing surface to the side and
bottom planks, take some pieces of the ij4-inch oak about
three inches wide and screw it fast all around the edge
of the transom. Use about ij4-inch brass screws and
bore so that their heads go in about J^ of an inch. Set

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these re-enforcing pieces so they extend out beyond the
edge of the transom so that when you come to bevel the
transom to take the sides and bottom planks there will be
wood enough to do so and it will not be as in Figure 9.
Round up the top edge of the transom two inches higher
in the center than it is at the sides to give the necessary
crown to the deck. The keel is a parallel oak board.

twenty feet long, six inches wide and iJ4 inches thick
that one can have sawed for him at the lumber yard
where he buys the wood. Be sure to get a sound, clear
oak board.

The stem is built just as ninety-nine out of a hundred
skififs are built — of two pieces, and' this greatly simplifies
the work. There is no rabbet to be cut. Just get a piece
of dry, sound oak, 28 inches or more in length and 3J^
inches square. Twenty-eight inches is the exact, neat
length required, but if you get it out 3 feet long it will be
long enough to reach the floor so you can brace it se-
curely and then saw it off after you turn the boat over.
Down the side that is to be the front edge draw a center
line and ^ of an inch each side of it draw lines parallel
to it; this represents the J^-'nch face that is to be left
square, as shown in figure 10. With draw-knife and plane
cut this stem to the wedge shape shown.

To secure the transom and stem to the keel, cut out
two knees of 3-inch oak or hackmatack so that the grain
follows, in a measure, the shape of the knees and is not
so crossgrained as to split off easily. Cut them accurately
to the angles given
in Figures 1 1 and 12,
and be sure to have
the edges square and
true so that when
the stem is riveted
to the keel they will
stand square and not
be off to one side, or
crooked. If you have
ever done any rivet-
ing these knees can
be riveted to the
keel, stem and tran-
som by some J^-inch
galvanized iron rod,
riveted over clinch
rings. If you have
not done any of this
kind of work, I

would advise bolting them fast with galvanized iron
carriage bolts, putting washers under the nuts. Set
the heads in just flush with the outside of the keel and
stem, but at the transom let the heads in far enough
(^ of an inch will do) to allow a wooden plug being
inserted to hide the bolt head. Dip the bolt into varnish
or paint it with red lead if you cannot get the galvanized
iron bolts and are forced to use black iron.

You will find that now is the time to bore the shaft
hole through the keel, as you can see both inside and out-
side of the boat, and line up the angle you want your
shaft to run with a chalk line stretched along the edge
of the keel plank. Get out a shaft log of clear, sound,
4-inch oak and fit it to the under side of the keel as it is
bent over the molds. To do so you will have to cut out
part of the mold but that is of no consequence.

When you have scribed and cut this shaft log so that it
makes a perfect fit, lay a piece of heavy muslin painted
with rather thick white lead paint between the log and
keel and with boat-builders' screw-clamps screw the log
firmly in place until you have bored and bolted it fast with
a row of carriage bolts along each side. Take care to
leave the center clear of bolts so that the shaft hole can
be bored through.

To bore this hole looks like a momentous question to
the amateur, and if he tries to do it without proper pro-
vision beforehand he will find that it is diflficult. First of
all, get an auger of the proper diameter for the hole you
want to bore. This diameter varies with the engines and
depends upon what make of engine you decide to instal.

Take that auger to a blacksmith and have him weld on
a long handle, five feet from the end of the auger to the

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crank, and let him bend a crank to turn it, with 7 inches
throw.

You cannot bore from the inside out and to start the
bit on the outside, clamp on, temporarily, a block of oak
just so that the bit can start into it and get cutting true
before it strikes the slanting keel. By so starting the bit
will bore clean and true through the keel and so on
through the deadwood, or shaft log.

To hold the auger true while starting to bore, rig up
a couple of temporary uprights with a score cut in them
just enough to steady the auger or bit as shown in Fig-
ure 13.

With this much done, the troublesome features of the
construction are practically over and the rest is plain
sailing. The sides, in localities where wide lumber is
obtainable, can be made of one board to a side. A ^-inch
cedar or pine board 20 feet 6 inches long, 24^^ inches
wide forward arid i4j/$ inches wide aft will do. Both
top and bottom edges of this side plank are dead straight
lines, requiring no shaping whatever, which makes the
work of building such a boat much easier for a novice.
He can lay out his plank with a chalk line or straight
edge, and so long as the planks are 24^^ inches wide at
one end and 14^^ inches at the other in a distance of
20 feet 6 inches, he cannot go wrong. By bending such a
plank around the molds you can soon see how the edge
of the transom will have to be beveled so that it fits flat.

When that little cutting has been done, proceed to fasten
the side planks into place. This part of the work is very
interesting to the amateur, as in a short time he sees the
boat rapidly take shape and begin to look like a real boat.

If the side planks cannot be gotten in one width they
can be made of two narrower ones. The frames that are
fitted in afterwards will hold them securely together and
the seam can be caulked and made water-tight. This
seam will be above the water level, however, so it is not
likely to leak.

Let the side planks extend an inch or so beyond the
stem and transom and saw them off flush afterwards.
Fasten thft side planks with either Ij4-inch galvanized
boat nails or i>4-inch brass screws to the stem and tran-
som. To make a neat job the heads of the nails or
screws should be counter-sunk about J4 or 3-16 of an inch
and the hole either filled with putty or a wooden plug.

The lower edge of the side plank must have an oak
batten along its edge to give a greater nailing surface for
the bottom boards. To put this batten in, saw a notch
out of the corner of the molds and then bend -in the bat-
ten, which should be of oak about ^-inch thick and 2J4
inches wide. Either rivet this to the edge of the side-
plank or screw it fast from the inside, letting the edge-
e-xtend down far enough so that it can be beveled off to
take the bottom boards, just as the re-enforcement for
the transom was put on.

FIG- 13.

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A "Pop Gun" buiU by Smith Kennerson of Rochester, N. Y.

PART II

THE next step in the construction of Pop-Gun is to
get out a lot of strips of oak for frames ^-inch by
2 inches wide and rivet them across the inside of the
side planks in the form of frames at intervals of every
twfo feet. You can rivet them in or nail them fast from
the outside, setting the nail heads in for either putty ot
wooden plugs.

At each up-and-down-side frame so riveted in on the
side planks, fit a floor frame of the same size so that it
notches into the chine piece alongside the frame and is
nailed diagonally through it into the chine piece, the other
end beveled so that it fits flatly on the inside of the keel,
the two butted together in the center. Screw the end of
the frame fast to the keel and when all the floor frames

Fic- 14

^2fmbtr ^a '

are in fit in some i-inch thick sawed Hoors as shown in the
midship section. Fit them in alongside of the 'frames and
nail them fast to the frames and keel.

Where the deadwood, or shaft log, is riveted fast to
the keel the floor frames cannot, of course, go across the
boa-t, and to secure them at this point various means are
resorted to. Some builders cut a dovetail jog in the shaft
log and dovetail heels of the frames into it ; others
simply butt the frame up against the log and rivet it to
the keel ; but a better way than either of these is to cut
out some small oak knees and rivet them alongside of
•the frames and screw them fast to the shaft log, as in
Figure 14.

To carry the engine a couple of heavy floors are fitted
across high enough to fit onto the chine pieces and
securely riveted or bolted to them. By being fastened to
the chine pieces and keel in this way they distribute the
strain of the engine over sufficient area to prevent its
straining the hull in any way. Be sure to cut a groove
or limber hole, as it is called, across the underside of all
floors down near the keel -to allow any bilge water that
may collecet to run aft, where it can be pumped out.

When all these floors are securely fastened in you are
ready to plank the bottom of the boat. For this you

need some %-inch cedar boards about 9 inches wide and
19 feet long.

The first plank each side of the keel, called the gar-
board, will have to have a slight bevel planed on its
edge next to the keel, so that the seam will not stand
open too wide. It must be wider open on the outside
than the inside, so that the caulking will wedge in tight
as it is driven in, but not So wide open as a square edge
on the board would make it.

You will find a straight plank will, when it is put on
over the floor frames, touch the keel forward and aft,
and amidships it will stand away Ij4 inches, but the
plank can be shoved in edgeways, so -that it will fit tightly
all along the keel.

The second plank on the bottom will not be quite so
long and can be edge-sprung the same as the garboard
was, and a third plank on each side will complete the
bottom. Cut the edges of each board so ii is flush with
the side plank and either screw fasten .or nail them to
the edge of the side planks and frames. If you have
bought clear cedar plank you will not have much plug-
ging up of knot holes to do, but absolutely clear cedar is
almost impossible to get. Try all knots that look loose
and knock them out, filling the hole by driving in a pine
or a cedar plug and sawing it ofif flush outside.

The loose knots are usually distinguishable by a fine
black ring of bark around them. Ream out all of the
black stuff so that clear wood shows, for if you leave, it,
it will only rot away and your plug will then be loose
and liable to come out.

Plane off the seams so that they are smooth and even,
and with medium sandpaper folded over a block of wood
just large enough to be held in the hand easily, scrub
crossways across the grain and then with fine sandpaper
rub it fore and aft with the grain. Before you give it

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the final rubbing, the bottom planks should be caulked.
The amount of cotton necessary for this will vary with
the size of the seam you have left between the boards.
The seam should be perfectly tight inside and opened
about an eighth of an inch on the outside, but some of
our amateur builders may be dismayed to find a plank that
was put on perfectly tight has, at the end of a few days,
shrunk so that it is opened a sixteenth of an inch or so.
It is for this reason that the seam is made wider open
on the outside, so that the cotton you are caulking with
jams tighter and tighter as it is hammered into the wedge-

sTiaped seam. But if the seam is wrongly beveled, that
is, so that the seam is wider open on the inside than the
outside, you can readily see you cannot keep the cotton
from falling through, and as all the pressure is on the

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outside, if it is beveled as first described you can see it
is being pushed in against the bevel of the plank.

The seam is not apt to be open the same amount all
along and to even this up somewhat various methods are
resorted to. One way is to take a sharp-edged caulking
iron (Figure 15) and drive it in the same distance all
along to even the seam. Another way is to make a
"beetle" out of hard white oak. A beetle is nothing more
than a round or oval piece of oak about 4 inches long,
2 inches diameter if round or about ij^ by 2 inches if
oval, with a wedge-shaped tongue cut across the long way
of it, as shown in Figure 16. By being cut on a bevel as
shown, you can insert this beetle in one end of a seam,
and by driving on the beetle with a mallet send it along
the whole length of the seam, making it of uniform width
and bevel, as the cedar will readily compress when the
beetle comes to a narrow place. Another way, but one
that requires metal wheels, is to have beveled edge wheels
set in a handle about 15 inches long (Figure 17). By
rolling this wheel along the seam it can be opened in a
few moments.

The cotton used in caulking boats comes rolled up in a
ball already spun into a band about as thick as your
thumb, but that, you will find, will readily split to any
desired thickness. Take off a string of it large enough
•.to pack tightly into the seam and either hammer it in
with a hlunt caulking iron or roll it in with a blnnf-edge
roller; the sharp ones you used to open the seam will cut
the cotton all up. Where spun boat cotton cannot be
obtained take the ordinary cotton and pull it out into a
sort of string and roll it under the palm of your hand
■over your knee. You will find it is very apt to break
apart, but by simply laying the ends together and rolling

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them they will unite again. On very small seams cotton
wricking that can be purchased in balls is used. This con-
sists of several cotton cords loosely twisted intg__one

round wick, but any number of these cords can be sepa-
rated. Take out three, four, five, or as many strings as
will be necessary to fill the seam and twist them up a
little before you hammer or roll them into the seam.

In caulking, where you come across a hole larger than
the general run of the seam bunch the cotton up as showjj
in Figure 18 by loopmg it into loops. When these are
hammered into the seam it will fill the hole.

The caulking should all be driven in so that it is at
least an eighth of an inch or so below the edges of the
planks to give room for the putty. To hold the cotton
into the seam and to form a holding-on for putty, paint
the seam over the cotton. You can do this with a narrow
chisel-pointed brush, but the edges of the boards will get
as much paint as the seams. Take a handful of shavings
or a piece of cloth and wipe off the surplus paint if you
have to use such a brush. There is a special brush made
for this purpose, called a seam brush, consisting of a sin-
gle row of bristles set in a thin wooden handle. When
this paint is dry, mix up some putty and putty all the
seams and nail heads or screw heads not covered by
wooden plugs and then paint the bottom with some anti-
fouling paint. Green looks very pretty with a white top
side.

When the bottom is dry, knock all the braces loose from
the floor and molds, transom and stem. Get a couple
of men to help you and pick the boat up by the ends and
turn her over right side up onto a couple of boxes or
heavy timbers.

The bottom being complete the next step is to build the
frame for the deck. For a shelf to lay these <1eck beams

F»G- 18.

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on you want two strips of oak — yellow pine will do if
oak is hard to get — I "4 inches thick, 3 inches wide and
20 feet long. Nail these fast to each of the frames so
that the upper edge is about ij^ inches below the level
of the edge of the side planks. If there were no round
or crown, as it is called, to the deck beams, which are
2 inches deep and I inch thick, this shelf would be put
just 2 inches below the side line, but to allow for the
arch-up of the deckbeam, which is about J/2 inch at the
inner edge of the frames, the shelf is raised that' much so
the underside of the deck beam will rest on it and the
top of the deck beam will come even with the top of the
side plank and not half an inch or so below it, as in Fig-
ure 19.

To get out the oak deck beams you must first make a
pattern of the curve wanted. A flat deck made of straight
deck beams spoils the looks of any boat. In your haste,
to get the boat done do not be tempted to use flat deck
beams.

I have shown a crown of 2j^ inches in 5 feet on the
plans. You can sweep such a curve by taking a batten
15 feet long, drive a brad through one end as a pivot and
hold a pencil at other end as you sweep an arc of a circle
on the floor or on a thin board you are going to cut as
a pattern. The measurements of such a curve are given
in Figure 20.

With this pattern you can mark out as many beams as
you want and saw them out by hand with a rip-saw,
planing them up smooth afterwards. If you have no cir-
cle plane to go around on the inside of the curve, clean
it with a spoke shave. Get out two beams of ij^ inches
in thickness, one to go across at the forward end of the

cockpit and one at the after end. The first is fitted in
alongside of the third frame from the stem, the other at
the second frame from the stern.

In the general construction plan one style of deck fram-
ing is shown that requires considerable cutting and fitting,
bu^ a far more simple way is illustrated in Figure 21.

The sill piece is of i^-inch wide by 2 inches deep oak
or yellow pine— oak if the beams are to be jogged into it,
yellow pine will do if not. In Figure 21 there is no cut-
ting to do; the sill piece is bent parallel with the side of
the boat one foot in from the outer edge and riveted to
the underside of two beams forward and two aft. Brace
it up temporarily until all the short beams are cut and
riveted into their places, as shown on the plans. Then
fit one permanent brace, about midway of its length, and
fasten it to a crossfloor below to stiffen the deck, should
anyone sit on it along the sides.

Nail the beams down into the shelf with 3-inch gal-
vanized wire nails. Fit a V-shaped block of oak across
from side to side away up in the extreme bow, resting on
top of the shelves and butting against the after side of
the stem, thick enough (about 2>4 inches) to allow you
to cut the proper crown of the decks on it so the decks
will .ay flat on it. This not only stiffens the boat but gives
you wood to screw a flagpole socket or bevel low chocks
fast to. 1

Fit another similar block between the beams of the for-
ward deck as shown on the plans to receive the screws
holdmg a cleat, and aft in the corner formed by the side
and the transom fit a small knee to stiffen it.

The deck should be either of Ya or ^-inch pine or cedar
put on in wide boards and painted or varnished as suits
one's taste. I would not advise having the boards too wide ;

one hatch setting in on cleats, screwed fast to the sides of
the coaming and which can be removed bodily to get at
the engine. Such matters as these are of minor impor-
tance, and any man will use his ingenuity to rig it up to
suit his own taste. . . r -ii

The placing of the engine and lining up of the shaft will,
of course, have to be figured out from the engine, diameter

FIG-20.

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' // you ^ai't n/ room ro iswee/) a<3 /artfe a c/rde, you i:an /a/
oJ/ your aecA ijsa/ns /rjf?^ f/ieje //(^ures

that is, twelve or fourteen inches. Keep them down to
about six inches in width, for the reason that the expansion
and contraction of a very wide board will cause the seams
between them to open too wide. Fasten the deck to the
beams with about ij4 or iJ/^-inch galvanized wire nails,
with heads punched in about a quarter of an inch, and the
holes filled with putty to match the wood in color, if it is
to be varnished, but not necessarily so if you are going
to paint it. For the sake of simplicity in construction, I
have shown the forward end of the cockpit cut off V-
shaped instead of a half-circle, which would require the
steaming and bending of the coaming. This V shape can
be cut out of straight stuff, the joints reinforced with a
block of oak behind the seam, and to which each of the
pieces of coaming is screwed fast from thq outside. The
coaming should be at least J^ of an inch in thickness, and
one can use his own judgment as to height.

On the plans I have shown what I consider a fairly
good layout of coaming and sort of cabin over the engine.
This cabin consists of two flaps, hinged along the side, that
can be lifted up, exposing the motor, or simply built as

FIG-19

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of propeller, etc., which you intend to install. It is really
these points which govern the boring of the shaft hole.
To determine the proper height for the engine bed, stretch
a chalk line very tightly from temporary braces in such
a way that it centers perfectly at both the inner and outer
end of the shaft hole. By leveling across from this chalk
line you can determine the height and grade for building
up the beds to which your engine is to be lag screwed.
On the outside of the boat, aft, this line will give you the
heights for the strut, which should be put there to support
the shaft, just forward of the propeller. All you need for
this is the angle. Cut one end of a thin pine board so
that it fits against the keel in such a manner that it forms
a right angle with this shaft line and mark across it the
line made by the chalk line. With this as a templet, you
can make a pattern and have a strut cast, or take a piece
of about ^-inch brass about six inches wide, bend it
around either a piece of iron pipe or a piece of wood,
about Ya of an inch greater in diameter than the shaft
which comes with your engine. Rivet it together, and
then spread the other part out in the form of two legs,
which can be flanged and bolted fast to the bottom plank-
ing; by putting a shaft through this loop so formed in this
sheet brass, and pouring babbitt metal around it, you can
babbitt such a bearing and make one that will answer all
the requirements as well as a cast strut would do.

The rudder is of the simplest construction. Take an oak
board about Ij4 inches in thickness, saw out just such a
rudder as you would make for any kind of a small row-
boat, and attach it to the stern by two screw eyes in the
transom, two in the rudder, and a rod dropped through
them, forming a hinge. Fit a wooden yoke across the
head of this rudder and attach tiller lines by which the
boat can be steered, either by hand as a rowboat would,
or if you want a more shippy arrangement, you can lead
it through screw eyes or fairleaders in the deck over brass
sheaves to a steering wheel which can be screwed fast to
the bulkhead at the after end of the engine space.

It is scarcely necessary to go into further details on this
boat, for all complications have been avoided, the main
object being to tell how to build the hull in the simplest
possible manner. The deck fittings and other things can
be arranged to suit the owner's individual taste.

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A 25-Foot Cabin Cruiser

BY FREDERIC S. NOCK

FOR such readers as will be interested in building a
small cruising motorboat, I am going to try and de-
scribe how to proceed to construct a 25-foot boat, and
if these specifications are carefully adhered to, those who
build will be surprised to find what a handly little craft
it will make.

The engine for which the boat was designed is a two-
cylinder, two-stroke, rated at 6-hp. and the weight alldwed
for same is 350 pounds. Therefore, if you do not use one
of these engines you at least should bear in mind that in
order to get the best results, you should install an engine
of about the same weight and power, irrespective of
whether you desire a two- or a four-stroke engine. Do
not install a high-speed, high-powered engine if you want
a cruiser, and bear in mind that this craft is not designed
for a speed boat. Eight (8) miles an hour can be de-
pended upon with the outfit mentioned, and that is speed
enough for so small a cruiser.

It is almost a moral impossibility to cover all the de-
tails in the specifications even though they are much more
comprehensive than such as I should furnish to a practi-
cal builder, but I will try to explain as closely as possible
how to proceed

When you have laid down the lines full size, you can
proceed to get out the moulds. For this you will need
about 100 feet of hemlock, spruce or some such material.
Saw to shape and don't forget that the lines are to the
outside of the plank, therefore if you mark your moulds
the same as the lines, you will have to take off ^ of an
inch around same, as these moulds are to represent the
inside of the planking and the planking is to be J4 of an
inch in thickness. Of course you can take this amount off
the outside when you lay down the lines if you prefer, and
bv doing so. you will save yourself considerable labor.

A practical boat builder seldom uses all the moulds, but
wouMyjrobably use Nos. 2, 4, 8, 16, 20. and 22, and spacing
them 4 feet apart except the two end ones, you can pro-
ceed in this manner and have good results provided you
use good strong battens to make a fair curve and hold the
frames in place without bending the battens.

The lines as laid down usually show but one side of the
mould as both sides should be alike, therefore you will
find it easier to mark out one side of the mould on a piece
of board, fasten this to another pieee and saw the two of
them out at the same time ; this applies especially to the
case if a band or jig saw is available. Mark and cut out
all your moulds in this manner and then proceed to fasten
them together. There are many different methods in
vogue, but one that is about as good as any for the
amateur is to put the cross pawls in such a position

that the lower edge of all of them sets to the sheer line
on each mould. Where more than two pieces of wood are
used to make a mould, you can cleat them together, taking
care to keep the cleat well in from the edges in order not
to interfere with the frames, etc., if any of them should be
close to the mould. Cleat the lower part of the moulds
with a piece of spruce or some such material about 2x2
inches, so that vou can use this to fasten the mould to the
keel

If the cross pawls are set true, it is a great help in
setting up, as you can level same, and again I would call
your attention to the necessity of marking the center line
on each mould. I believe that in a case of this sort it is
also a good plan to mark on the moulds the waterline, for
by so doing you can easily ascertain whether the moulds
are all set up correctly or not before starting to put on the
battens. The practical builder could tell this at a glance,
but it is not always so with the amateur.

When you have completed your moulds, you can pro-
ceed to mark out the keel. For this you will need a nice
piece of oak. about 21 feet long. 3 inches thick and 12
inches wide; carefully smooth the sides and mark out on
same the shape, and the stations, cut to the lines and after
carefully trimming the keel run in a line through the cen-
ter of the upper side, and, with your square, mark the
stations across the top. Select a good piece of oak for
the stem, mark the shape on same and cut to the lines. It
is a good plan to make a thin wood template of the stem
as you can use this template to mark out the shape and
also the rabbet line. To do this, you can bore a number
of small holes along the line of the rabbet, and with a
drill or awl you can easily reproduce this on one side of
the piece of wood you have previously cut to shape, re-
verse the template and mark the other side, draw a center
line down the face of the stem *and a line ^ of an inch
on each side of same, which allows J^ of an inch for the
face of the stem. Trim from the rabbet line to these two
outer lines and then proceed to cut the rabbet, using a fid
(Fig. 3) to get the bevel. If you want to get the rabbet
on the stem absolutely correct you can do so by marking
on same the waterline and cutting the rabbet to the exact
bevel, but I do not think you would save much time by
doing this, for when the stem is in position and you start
to place the battens, if the rabbet line needs fairing in
places you can easily accomplish same, having the battens
to work to.

If the engine you decide to use is of the dimensions as
the one called for on the plans, you can rest assured that
the line of the shaft will not differ, and therefore you can
proceed to get out the shaft-log. For this you will need

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two pieces of oak, 3J4 feet long, 3x3 inches, plane them
smooth and with your gauge mark a center line on lone
side of each piece, and another line ^ of an inch out on
either side, scribe a half circle with a radius of ^ of an
inch on either end, and proceed to cut this halfround piece
away. If you are so situated that you can obtain the use
of machinery, this job would be simplified by running a
few saw scarfs through same to the required depths ; then,
with a gouge, cut away the superfluous stock, finishing it
smooth with a round plane. In some cases the boat
builder will run a saw scarf through the center line of
both pieces, clamp them together and with a spur auger
of the right size, bore the hole through, but no matter how
much care is given, the spur is liable to run to one side or
the other, and not follow the saw scarf, and if this happen;
you will spoil your shaft-log. If you happen to have an
auger of the right size, it would do no harm to run it
through the center of the log after you have cut the two
pieces out to shape, for in this manner you can rest assured
that the hole is the correct size and round. Do not try to
spline this shaft-log, as there is but little stock on either
side for the fastenings and by putting a stop water at
either end and calking between them you can make the
seam tight. The horn timber can now be gotten out, the
specifications call for this to be sided 3 inches. Select a
nice piece of oak, mark and cut to shape, draw a center
line along the upper side and then proceed to get out the
knee for the transom. This can be an oak or hackmatack
knee, a natural crook is to be preferred, to be about 3
inches in thickness. Cut to shape but do not fit until you
are ready to set up the keel.

You will need another knee to connect the stem to the
keel, which same can be a natural crook or cut from a
plank, mark it out on the plank so that the grain runs
from point to point in order to get the greatest strength,
it is to be 3 inches in thickness. When you have cut it
to shape, cafefully fit same, taking due care to see that
all joints are close and when fitted to the stem and keel,
the stem does not lean forward or aft, but is the same
position as shown on the plans. Clamp the knee in posi-
tion, bore and bolt together with }i inch diameter gal-
vanized iron, sink the heads of the bolts well into the out-
side of the stem and keel so as to allow for covering same
with wooden plugs. The inside ends should be riveted
over galvanized iron washers, or if you prefer, you can
fasten the knees in position with galvanized iron screw
bolts; if a washer is put under the nut, you can draw the
pieces together in good shape.

When the stem is fastened to the keel you can proceed
with the shaft-log. Set this in position and bore through
each side about 4 inches from the forward end, and bolt
through keel with 5-16 inch diameter bolts, counter-
sinking the heads in the underside of keel and drawing
up with nuts on washers on the upperside of the log.

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Bore and put in two more bolts of the same size about 8
inches from the after end of the log, although in this case
it would be better to use drive bolts about 12 inches in
length. For these you will need some 5-16 inch diameter
galvanized iron ; cut to length and with a hammer slightly

taper one end. Then lasten in a vise and hammer a head
on the oth^r end. Bore through the shaft-log with a 5-16
inch diameter bit, and into the keel with a J4-inch
diameter bit or auger. Set the horn timber in position,
and, after .carefully fitting same, secure it by clamps or
some other convenient method, and proceed to fasten it ;
if you start at the forward end it would be well to bore

STEM
PATTERN

two holes about 4 inches from the end. Bore these holes
through the horn timber, shaft-log and keel with a 5-16
inch diameter auger in such a position that they will be
on either side of the shaft-hole. Countersink the under-
side of the keel for the heads and use 5-16 inch diameter
bolts and nuts set up on the upper side of the horn timber ;
you will find that you may have to trim the wood a trifle
in order to get a good bearing for the washer as the top
of the timber is at an angle to the bolt. You can put in
two more bolts about 10 inches further aft, and "Btill an-
other two about 10 inches aft of them, and then the horn
timber, shaft-log and keel are well fastened together, but
you have not as yet fitted the stern post in position,
although the keel is cut for it.

Select a piece of oak that will work out 3 inches square
and about 15 inches in length, and cut to fit the space
allowed for same. When you are satisfied that it fits
properly you can fasten it in position with 5-16-inch drive
bolts.

The transom, whi' 1 the specifications state is to be of
oak, is ij4 'inches tl-ick. You will need two pieces -30x36

inches, and inasmuch as it might be a difficult matter to
procure oak 30 inches wide, you will probably have to use
two narrower pieces and bolt them together, or, if you
prefer, you can use mahogany for the transom. There :s
little or no difficulty in obtaining this material 30 inches
wide, but it would cost a trifle more than oak. Thfr-^rfans
show one half the transom with all dimensions marked on
it. You can set this out direct on one of the pieces of
stock for transom if you desire, and saw it out and mark
the opposite side for same. Or you can saw the two
pieces at one time with a band saw. Trim carefully to
shape and get out a couple of cheek pieces of oak i inch
thick and about 3 inches wide ; set these almost out to the
edges of the transom and fasten with galvanized screws,
these pieces are to be trimmed to form a back rabbet to
fasten the ends of the planking to, and you will probably
have to fair them to some extent when you start to put
on the battens.

You can now proceed to set up the frame. Draw a
chalk line on the floor where you intend to set up the boat
and to the edge of this line set up 4 pieces of spruce 3x4
inches, each oiece to be one foot longer than the height
on the table of offsets of ^ase line to keel bottom, at sta-
tions 2, 8, 14, and 20. Nail a strip of wood to the sides
of these upright, so that the upper edge will represent the
base line, and if the floor is level, it will be one foot above
same. Set this strip of wood level, using a long spirit
level to ascertain that neither end is high. The forward
side of these posts will represent the stations Nos. 2, 8, 14,
and 20, and you can measure up on from the upper edge
of the strip representing the base line and see that the
dimensions correspond to the heights of keel bottom above
the base line on table of offsets. These uprights must be
well braced forward and aft and also at the sides in order
to keep them upright and sustain the weight of the boat.
It is not necessary to obtain any special size stock for
these braces, as most any stock from i to 2 inches thick
will serve the purpose if properly fastened. Set the keel
on the uprights and ascertain that it is in the right posi-
tion ; measure from the base line to the waterline on stem
and see that it is 2H feet above the base line as per plans.
Plurnb the stem and securely brace it from overhead if
possible. If you are sure that it is correct, you can fasten
some wooden cleats to each side of the uprights and also
fasten to the keel.

The knee and transom can be fitted and fastened, using
plenty of fastenings but taking due care not to get any
nails or screws where they will interfere with the rudder
port, which will have to be bored and time spent looking
out for this will mean a saving in the end, as nails and
screws are apt to spoil an auger or bit. Place your level
against the side of the knee and when vertical, stay the
transom either to the rafters or some other convenient
place. Then take your chalk line and stretch it from the
center line of the transom to the center line of the stem,
haul taut, and drop a plumb-bob from same (see Fig. 8).
If the point of the bob touches the line on the center of
the keel you can rest assured that the stem and stern are
in line, but do not be satisfied with one trial, try the
plumb-bob at diiYerent points and if any of them are out,
sight along the side of the keel and if this is not in a
straight line fore and aft you must brace it until it is
perfectly straight and the plumb-bob must intersect the
center line at any point. When you have it correct, you
can fasten the stays or braces strongly, so as to keep it
in position.

"Consort," Built from Mr. Nock's Plans and Instructions

PART II.

BEFORE you begin to set up your moulds, it would be
advisable to finish the rabbet line, as you have only cut
the stem. The rabbet line is supposed to be marked on
the keel on either side, and inasmuch as the upper side of
the keel as far aft as the shaft-log represents the inside
of the planking, it is not a difficult matter to trim this
rabbet at intervals, taking the proper bevel at the different
stations from the lines you have laid dovvn. Then fair up
the places between the points you have spotted, or cut to
the proper shape. Where the rabbet line crosses the knee
and connects with the rabbet line on the stem you must
he very careful to get it correct.

It would be advisable to get two pieces of oak. i inch
thick, about 6 feet in length, to fasten to each side of the
shaft-log and horn timber ; they should be cut to the curve
of the rabbet line and the proper bevel, and securely
fastened. Cut out places in the lower edges of these
pieces to receive the heels of the frames; of course you
will understand that these pieces are to form a back
rabbet for the garboards or the plank nearest to the keel
and should be cut to the proper bevel of the inside of the
plank.

Having finished cutting the rabbet line along the keel,
etc., you can now proceed to set up the moulds. Starting
with No. 2, set this in position so that the forward side
of the mould intersects with station No. 2 on the knee.
Cut it over the knee and set it down so that the lower
part of the mould intersects with the back rabbet ; measure
up from your base line to the L. W. L. on the mould and
if it is 2j^ feet up, screw through the block into the knee
to hold the mould, plumb the face of the mould and when
you have leveled the cross pawl you can secure the mould
with stay-laths. Moulds 4, 8, and 12 can be set up in the
same manner with the forward sides of the moulds inter-
secting with stations 4, 8, and 12 on the keel, but the
moulds 16, 20, and 22 are to be set with the after side of
the moulds intersecting with their respective stations.
Perhaps it might be well to explain the reason for setting
them in this manner and I would call your attention to
the fact that the edges of the moulds are cut at right
angles to the face and the shape of curve of the boat com-
mences to narrow up from station 12 forward and from
station i6 aft; therefore these moulds are so placed that
the edges which the battens spring against are in a direct
line with the stations for which the moulds were made.
When all the moulds are properly stayed, it is a good plan
to go carefully over them and see that they are perfectly
plumb and the cross pawls level, and if you stretch your
chalk line fore and aft in a line with the L. W. L. at the

stem and stern, it should also intersect with the waterline
on each mould. If it does you can rest assured that your
moulds are set up properly. Fasten some stays from one
mould to another and start to bend and fasten on the bat-
tens. For these you will need some nice, clear pieces of
yellow pine or fir about i^xiJ/2 inches; if you get them
long enough to extend from end to end in one piece so
much the better, otherwise you can use shorter lengths
and let them lap by one another. Fasten the end of one
of the battens in the rabbet on stem, bend carefully
around the moulds and fasten to same with long thin
screws, putting washers under the heads of same to pre-
vent them pulling through the battens. Set the first
batten so that the lower edge touches the mark represent-
ing the sheer line on each mould; when you get to the
transom you will probably find that the bevel of the cheek
pieces does not allow the battens to bear the entire width,
and in that case it must be pared until the batten has a
good bearing, and the same thing applies to the other bat-
tens where they are fastened to the transom and stem;
you must also see that there is the right bevel cut on the
edge of the transom. It would be advisable to put about
six battens on a side, space them about the same distance
apart. If you have been careful in making and setting
the moulds, you will find that the battens touch each one
and at the same time have a nice fair curve.

The frames, or timbers, should be cut from straight
grained white oak; if you can procure some stock that
has not been dried you will find it much easier to bend
when it has been steamed than the seasoned stock. Under
no conditions should you try to use kiln dried stock; it is
almost an impossibility to bend it, and even if you do
succeed in bending it you will find that it has a natural
tendency to straighten instead of retaining its shape. The
specifications call for the frames to be i}ixiys inches,
spaced 9 inches center to center. You will need 30
frames for each side. If, however, the frames from sta-
tion No. 4 to the forward end of the shaft-log are in one
piece from sheer to sheer, it will reduce the number of
frames. You will need nineteen frames to run from
sheer to sheer, and as you are liable to break some of
them, it would be advisable to get out twenty-six. The
longest frame will be about 14 feet, but you had better
get 16-foot lengths; there are twenty-two short frames
required, and if you are using 16-foot stock you can cut
the pieces ia two and use for the short frames. Don't
forget that you may break some of these and that it is a
good plan to get out a number of extra frames ; even
though you do not break a great number they will not be
wasted as they can be used for the floors.

Mark off on the keel the spacing of the frames, taking
care not to measure along the top of the keel but in a
straight line, and it is a good plan to mark the position
of the frames on the center and upper batten as this will
save considerable time when you are bending in the
frames. Put some of the frames in your' steam box and
let them stay until they are well saturated, and are soft
and pliable. It will probably take from 20 to 40 minutes,
according to the amount of steam you have, and bear in
mind that you do not require dry steam, it cannot be too
wet. Having satisfied yourself that the frames are suffi-
ciently well steamed you can proceed to bend the frames
to the battens. If you have put in some of the long
frarries you can start anywhere along the widest part of
the boat, gradually spring the frame down until it touches
the keel ; then, bearing your weight ,Qn same, work up-
wards on either side, fasten the frame to the keel with
galvanized iron boat nails and clamp it to the battens, tak-
ing due care to see that it fits closely to the battens and
stands perpendicular. There will be no trouble about it
"being perpendicular if you bring the edge to the mark on
the battens. There is no need for me to tell you that this
part of the work would be a great deal easier if you can
iiave someone to assist in bending and fastening the
clamps; it will also save you considerable climbing up and
•down, for the best way to bend these frames is to get
inside of the framework and bear your whole weight on
tbem. If you have only a few clamjw you will probably
Tieed them for the next frame, and if so you can remove
the clamps one at a time, and fasten the frame to the
"battens with a wire nail through each batten. By the
time you had bent in a few of the amidship frames —
which are the easiest to bend in — you will have grasped
the situation and find that there is nothing very difficult
about this part of the work. The frames at the forward
end will require a little more care as they must be cut to
iit the sides of the stem and as thev do not set square with

the battens, you will have to twist them so that they fit
close to each side of the battens. The frames aft of the
forward end of the shaft-log will have the heels fitted in
the mortises in the cheek pieces and fastened to same.
These frames will also have to be twisted to get the right
shape to make them set close to the battens with width of
the frame, and a large monkey wrench would be of valu-
able assistance in twisting the frames. When you have
finished framing you can put in the floors. These are to
be i%xiyi inches and should be about 3 feet in length.
Beginning at station No. 4, all the floors should be on the
after side of the frames until you reach station No. 14,
and from this point aft all floors should be forward of the
frames. Bend in the floors and fasten to the keel, then
put three fastenings through the side of floor and frame
on either side of the keel. For this purpose it is a good
plan to use a galvanized wire nail, if the fastenings are to
be of galvanized- iron as specified for this boat. The
floors aft of the shaft-log are not bent to shape, but are
to be cut out of iJ/^-inch oak; cut them so that they fit
over the upper side of the horn timber and the shaft-log and
shape the underside the same as the frame; fasten to the
horn timber and shaft-log and also through the sides of
the frames. It is a good plan to cut a piece out of the
corner of these cut floors or else bore holes through same
so as to allow any water that may run in aft to find its
way to the lowest point, and now that I have brought up
the subject of limburs, I will call your attention to the
fact that there has been no provision made for same in
this boat, the frames and floors are small and to cut a
limbur in them that would be of a suitable size would ma-
terially weaken both the floors and frames and I would
suggest that you do not cut in any limburs, but when the
boat is planked, take some Portland cement and pour in
each bay until flush with the top of the lowest frame and
in this manner you will have a clear passage for the
water and no obstructions. This is an advantage in a

1
1

i ;

1 1 1

! ; 1

A Cross Braces

Molf Section ot

FoTu/ord Broce

StWt'tOr* ' +

Engine Bed Details

motorboat, for it enables one not only to clean it out
easily, but also when the craft is laid up in the Fall, it is
much easier to remove the surplus oil and grease that will
collect in the bottom of a boat of this description, no
matter how careful one may be. If, however, your mind
is set on having limburs cut in the frames, this is the time
to do it, before you start to put on any plank, etc.

When you have completed the frames you can proceed
to get out the planking. Fig. 9 shows a half section of
the boat at station No. 12 and you will note that I have
shown thirteen planks on each side from the garboard to
the sheerstrake. It' is not necessary to use exactly this
number of planks to a side; some builders prefer wider
planks and of course there would not be as many if they
were wider. However, it is better to use the narrow
plank. The garboard, or plank next to the keel, is usually
the widest and the planks narrow from that point to the

planks are put on, I am going to suggest that you start
to put on the sheerstrake first; select your plank and
plane to }i inch thickness, and before you can proceed to
mark the shape of the sheerstrake, you will have to find
out the shape of this plank, and in order to do so, it is
necessary to take a spiling. To do this take a piece of
pine or cedar about 3-16 or j4 inch thick, 6 to 7 inches
wide and about 26 feet in length, this is called a spiling
batten or staff, and can be made up of two pieces fastened
together if these are easier to obtain than one length.
Bend this naturally around the moulds below the marks
representing the sheerline, and with some small wire
brads secure it in position, taking due care that the edge
of the staff does not cover any of the marks representing
the sheerline ; take your jpencil compasses and set them to
such a width that the radius is slightly in excess of the
widest place between the edge of the staff and sheerline.

Method of Bending Frames

turn of the bilge upwards where they should all be of one
width with the exception of the sheerstrake, which is
usually made wider than the next four or five planks
below it. The specifications eall for yellow pine planking
and if you use this material, there is no reason why you
should not have it in lengths of about 28 feet, or long
enough to reach from end to end without any butts. If
you are unable to obtain the requisite lengths, the planks
can be butted, and again if you cannot procure yellow
pine or fir, you could use cedar, cypress or white pine.
Either of these materials would make good planking.
As it is easier to put in the engine bed before the lower

place the point of the compasses at the sheerline on each
mould and sweep in an arc on the staff, mark the end of
the staff where it intersects with the rabbet in stem, re-
move the staff and fasten it to the plank you intend to
use for one of the sheerstrakes, and with your compasses
draw an arc, the point of the compasses being set on one
side of the arc on the staff. Then put the point of the
compasses on the other side of the arc on staff and draw
another arc on the plan. This arc will cross the first
one drav^n, and where these two arcs intersect or cross is
the point you must work to when you draw the line repre-
senting the upper side of the sheerstrake. You must re-

Su'iliwg Bo'Hen

Fig. II. — How Spots Are Transferred to Plank

peat this process at each place where you have drawn
an arc on the staff, and when you have them all marked,
remove the staff, select a good batten and bend -to the re-
quired shape so that a line drawn along the edge of same
will cut through each of the arcs you have drawn where
they intersect. Fig. lo will help to explain this a trifle
more clearly, and Fig. ii shows the staff fastened to the
plank and the arcs marked on» same and also the plank.
To obtain the shape of the lower edge of the sheerstrake
you can mark at the center the extreme width, which I
have figured at 5 inches, then mark the width at each end,
bend a good strong batten to these points until you have
a fair line and cut to same. Bear in mind that you need
two of these pieces and therefore it is advisable to saw
out another one for the opposite side before you begin
'-to fasten it to the frames. The sheerline as shown on
the plans represents the height to the top of the deck and
though this is short, it should be taken into consideration.
The deck plank is to be % of an inch in thickness, there-
fore the sheerstrake should be 7/% of an inch below the
sheerline marked on the moulds. Fit the forward end to
the rabbet on the stem and fasten it, taking due care that
the upper edge touches the marks ^ of an inch below
the sheerline; hold it in position with clamps and fasten
to the frames, countersinking for the nail heads so as to
allow of their being covered with 7-16 inch diameter wood
plugs. The after end must be carefully cut to fit the
bevel of the transom and be well fastened to the cheek
pieces on same. It is a good plan for the amateur to
mark on the edges of the moulds or frames the width of
the planks. Fig. 9 shows a half section at station No. 12
and you will note that there are thirteen planks to a side
including the sheerstrake and garboard; the upper
strakes, representing the raised sheer, I have not taken
into consideration as you are working from the sheerline.
Starting from the sheerline on the mould representing
station No. 12, make a mark % of an inch below same,

then another one 5 inches below that. This will repre-
sent the sheerstrake. Now start at the keel and mark 8
inches up, from this mark 7 inches upwards, and another
6 inches, and the remaining spaces you can divide equally
into nine spaces. These will represent the greatest widths
of the planks, and you should proceed to mark on the stem
the height of the upper edge of the garboard and the
lower edge of the sheerstrake which should be consider-
ably narrower at this end than at station No. 12. The
transom should be marked in a similar manner and then,
if you desire, you can mark out on each mould the widths
of the planks; of course the garboard and the next two
strakes will be wider in proportion than the others, but
it is a simple matter to figure this out and have a good
curve to all the planks.

The professional builder does not always lay out his
plank in this manner, and some of you may know a much
better method ; this article, however, is not written for the
practical boat builder, but for the amateur. Inasmuch as
you are not going to fit in the garboards at present on ac-
count of the engine bed, we can at least work to the width
laid out for the garboards and other plank and proceed to
get out the next plank below the sheerstrake. You can
take a spiling from the lower edge of the sheerstrake in a
similar manner to the spiling of the sheerstrake, except
that in this case you work from the lower edge of the
sheerstrake in sweeping in the arcs on the staff. Be sure
to make some marks on the sheerstrake and staff so that
when you have cut out your plank you cam bring them to
the same position as you had when you took the spiling.
Mark the widths of this plank at intervals, bend a batten
to it, draw a fair curve through these points and you have
a line reoresenting the lower edge of this plank. Cut out
two planks to this shape. If you take this plank and bend
around the moulds in order to see that it fits, you will
most probably find that the seam is open quite wide in
the center of the boat but it closes at the stem and "the

A •■ /Moulds

Fig. 10. — Shape of Spiling fpr Plank and Garboard

or p»-

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Fig. 13

temporarily. Now take your level and bring it up so that
it just touches the under side of the line, see that it is
horizontal and make a mark on one end of this template;
repeat the operation at the opposite end, draw a line
through the point, and you have the line of the center of
the shaft marked on same.

You can now proceed to get out the two bearers, add-
ing to the size marked on the template the thickness of
the frames, or better still, a quarter of an inch in excess
of same, to allow for trimming, or, if you prefer, you can
get out a template to fit exactly over the frames and
floors and mark the shape of these bearers from same.
It is simply a matter of choice which method you use. If
you cut the underside of the bearers to the shape of the
template, set in position, mark both sides with the com-
passes in order to get the height of the frames on the
inside and outside, then mark the frames and floors, re-
move the bearer, cut to shape, and see that it fits properly ;
repeat this operation on the piece of stock for the other
bearer, set in position, clamp it so as to keep it from
moving and ascertain that it fits properly and is in line
both fore and aft and also in a vertical position. If there
is any part of these bearers that extend below the under
side of the frames, you can easily remove the superfluous
stock when you have the bearers fastened in, before you
start to plank. The cross logs are 2^ inches thick, and
for these you will need one piece of oak 6 feet long and
I foot wide, and another piece 5 feet long and about 8
inches wide; set these pieces on the keel and the places
indicated on the plans, or to suit the base of your engine
if it is a dififerent make or style, fasten them temporarily
and mark out the shape of the underside of same on the
forward and after sides; if you do this properly yoH can
cut to the correct bevel the first time, and they will fit
close to the inside of the plank where this part of the boat
is planked. Cut the forward pieces to a depth of 5 inches
to allow the fore and aft bearers to fit into same for that
depth, fasten them securely to the keel, and then put in
the fore and aft beai-ers, cutting them over the cross logs,
securely bolt to same, and fasten up through the under
side of the frames into the bearers. If the under side of
the flange of the engine bed is below the center line of the
shaft a certain distance, the bearers will have to be cut
away that amount in order to have the shaft in line, and
if the under side of the flange is above the center line of
the shaft, the bearers will have to be raised; this should
be ascertained before the upper sides of the bearers are
finished.

One MALr SccTiow AT Station N» \t

Fig. 9

*- ''* _* .

Another View of "Consort"

PART III (Conclusion)

The keelson can now be gotten out and fastened in posi-
tion. For this you will require a piece of oak, or yellow
pine, 2x4 inches, 12 feet in length. Trim the forward
end so that it fits the scarf in the stem, and bend to the
frames. If any of the frames at the forward end have a
tendency to keep the keelson from bearing tight on the
frames and floors directly over the keel, you will have to
trim the keelson and when you are satisfied that it fits
properly, proceed to fasten it, using through fastenings
at the forward end and at each alternate floor.

The bilge clamps can be fitted and fastened to the frames
before the planking is fitted, and it would be as well to do
this part next. The specifications call for the bilge
clamps to be of yellow pine i^ x 4 inches amidships,
tapered to i>4 x 3J4 inches at the ends. This taper
should be about 7 feet in length. Select some straight
grained piece of stock and have it milled to the re-
quired dimensions, and finish with a hand smooth. Mark
on the center frames the location of the bilge or clamp
on either side, also the stem and stern, bend the bilge
clamp down in the center and fasten with a screw clamp
and then work the ends to the required position, or as a
good bearing on the frames, bore and fasten to the frames,
putting one fastening through each frame at the upper
and lower edges of the clamp. These fastenings should
be either riveted or clinched Over the frames. Having
fastened in the two bilge clamps, you can continue your
planking and I would suggest getting out the garboards
first. You will proceed in a manner somewhat similar to
getting out the sheerstrake, but owing to the fact that this
is more difficult, I will explain it so that you can proceed
without any trouble.

Take a piece of pine or cedar about the same dimen-
sions as your spiling batten or staff, but don't use that one
as you will need it for the balance of the planking; tack
this over the frames close to the rabbet in the keel, take
your compasses, and setting them to a radius of about one-
quarter of an inch mbre than the widest place between
the rabbet and the edge of the staff, strike in a number
of arcs at intervals of about one foot apart until you get
to the short turn at the stem, where the marks should be
quite close in order to get the shape more accurately.
Make some marks on the keel and batten in order to en-
able you to get the batten back in the same position again.
Fig. 10 shows the staff in position with marks showing
the spiling, and if these marks are transferred to the piece
of plank to be used for the garboards in the same manner
as suggested for the sheerstrake, there will be no difficulty
in making them fit, but it may save you some lumber as
well as considerable labor if you first cut the spiling bat-

ten to the mark you have made, pare and trim until it fits
the rabbet perfectly, and then it is no trouble to mark
around same with a pencil, and you have the shape of the
lower edge of one of the garboards. The shape of the
other edge is obtained in the same manner as the lower
edge of the sheerstrake, mark the greatest width, the
width at the forward and after ends, and a couple of in-
tervening places if you so desire, bend a batten to same,
strike a fair curve and cut to shape.

You will have to exercise considerable care in fitting
the lower edge to the rabbet, chalk the inside of the rabbet,
and when you have clamped the garboard in position, if
there are any places where it needs trimming to make a
good fit, don't slight it, but spend time enough to have it
fit all along the rabbet. Mark on a board a duplicate of
the plank, cut and fit as carefully as the first one and,
when they are ready, steam them well and start to fasten
one of them, beginning at the stem. Drive the plank tight
into the rabbet, bore a hole Ji or 7/16 inch diameter, to
take the wood plug to cover the head of the fastening.
This should not be over J4 inch deep; then bore a hole a
trifle smaller than the nail through the planking into the
stem, and fasten with galvanized boat nails. The fasten-
ings should be about ij4 inches apart where the garboard
connects with the stem and in the keel they should be
about 2/'i inches apart. There should be three fastenings
in the width of the plank at each frame and floor, two of
the fastenings to be through the frame and one through
the floor, unless you make the after end very narrow, and
in that case you would not need more than two fastenings
at each frame and floor.

When you have finished fastening the garboards, you
can proceed to get out the next plank; cut to shape and
fasten to the frames, etc. Before you continue to plank
any further, I must call your attention to the planks which
are to be used around the turn of the bilge. These planks
should be cut out of stock that is thick enough to allow
of the inside being coped or planed hollow to fit close to
the frames. When you have removed sufficient of the
inside of the plank to admit of its fitting closely to the
frames, set your gfauge to ^ inch and run a score along
the edges of the plank, then plane to this line, but not for
the entire width of the plank, as you can easily plane this
when you finish the outside of the planking.

You can now cut out and fasten in position the next
five strakes, and when you have finished with them yott
will be ready for the shutter, for such is the name given
to the last plank to be fitted. It is necessary to take a
spiling on both sides for this plank, and be sure to get it
large enough. Having satisfied yourself that it is the
required shape, fit the forward end to the rabbet in stem

and drive it in place, fasten to the stem and continue to
drive it in till it fits close to the frames and fasten to
same as fast as you drive it in place, for in this manner
you will prevent it from springing out when driving. The

How Chain Clamp Is Used

cutting of the after end of the plank to fit the rabbet in
the transom must be done before the fastenings are put
in the last few frames; finish fastening in frames and
transom and fit the shutter on the opposite side. A well-
fitting shutter tends to tighten up" all the planking, and if
you have kept the widths of the planks about equal, it is
hard to distinguish the shutter from the other planks.

The planking of the raised sheer can now be gotten out
and fastened in position, and as I have already explained
how to obtain the shape of the planks, there is no need
for me to explain the operation as there are but three
planks to be gotten out for either side of the raised sheer.
I have figured that all the planking you will use will be
full length, but for the benefit of those who are unable to
procure the long lengths or prefer the shorter planks, I
would 'state that the method of planking would be the
same, the only difference is that some of the planks would
be in t.wo or more pieces. All that is necessary is to make
the butts come between the frames and fasten them se-
curely. Fig. i6 shows the usual method of fastening a
butt. Tbp butt block should be of oak about i inch thick
and of sutficient width to lap over the edge of the plank
on either side J^ of an inch. The forward and after ends
of these blocks should be chamfered on the side nearest
to the inside of the plank so as to allow any water, that
might leak in to run through, instead of collecting on top
of the block.

Fit all blocks tight between the frames, and if properly
■fastened, the plank is stronger at this point than elsewhere.
If you have butts in the planking, bear in mind the neces-
sity for distributing same. Do not make one butt come

directly over the top of another, but break all joints by
placing at least three planks between, if the butt is between
the same frames.

When you have finished planking the boat, take a jack
plane and roughly plane the outside, then the boat is ready
lor calking. It is much b^^ter to have this done by a man
who makes a business of it, as there is a great deal more
in calking a boat than merely driving in cotton. If you
desire to try your hand at this, you should procure some
good spun cotton. You will also need some calking irons
and a mallet — one of these irons will be needed for open-
ing the seams and the other for driving in the cotton. Look
carefully over the seam you intend to calk, and if you de-
cide that it is open enough to drive, in the cotton, select a
piece and start it in with the iron, using the calking mallet
to strike the iron. Do not stretch out the cotton and drive
it in, but bring it back a trifle, then drive; keep on doing
this — it makes a lap and thus makes a much thicker bunch
to drive in. Set it down hard and keep it about J4 of an
inch below the surface. Experience will help you more
than any explanation I can give you, and you will find as
you progress just how much cotton to put in the seams,
and how hard to drive it. If you want to find out just how
easy, or how difficult, it is to calk a boat, just watch some
of the men calking a small yacht or vessel, then go back
and try it. When you have the hull calked, the seams
should be painted with a thick lead paint; a long narrow
brush with short bristles, known as a seaming brush, is the
best thing to use to run the paint in the seams. This paint-
ing of the seams makes them hold the putty and also form
a ridge which prevents the cotton from working out, as it
would have a tendency to do when there is much jarring
on the boat such as would be occasioned by riveting in the
deck clamps, etc.

The deck clamps and raised deck clamps can now be
gotten out and fastened in position. The clamp is to be
of yellow pine, ij4 x 4 inches, the upper and lower edges
to be chamfered from the forward end to the bulkhead
at the after end of the cabin. Set the upper edge of^this
clamp the same height as shown on the construction'plan
and fasten to the frames. It is a good plan to fasten
through the sheerstrake, frame and clamp, at each frame,
petting these through fastenings alternately at the upper
and lower edges. The raised deck clamp is to be of yellow
pine 1)4 X 3>4 inches. Chamfer the lower edge and fasten

in position. Take care to have the upper edge of the clamp
at the correct height for the entire length, and when you
have" put in a few fastenings it is advisable to ascertain
that the upper edges are true, and the same height on

PROPOSED CABIN PLAN FOR THE NOCK 25 FT. CABIN CRUISER

both sides of the hull, and if so, you can finish fastening
same, adopting the same method of through fastening as
suggested for the clamp at the normal sheer.

If you intend to finish the exterior of the hull before
doing any work on the interior, you can proceed to get
out the two knees for the stern; these are to be cut from
oak plank i^ inches in thickness. Fit a piece of oak
i%xi^yi inches across the inside of the transom at such a
height as to catch the ends of the deck plank, and then
fasten the knees in position, securing same to the clamp,
sheerstrake and transom.

You will note that there are but three deck beams shown
on the plan; these are to be of oak, sided ij4 inches,
moulded ij4 inches, and cut with a crown of i^ inches
in 5 feet. Mortise the ends of the two forward frames
into the clamp and fasten to same. The after beam is
to be halved into the knees and fastened. Between the
two after beams you can fasten a piece of oak 8 inches
wide and i^i inches thick to receive the lower end of the
towing post or bitt, and then proceed to plank the deck.
You will need some nice, clear white pine for this plank,
and unless you can obtain the pine already cut with the
edge of the grain on the flat side of the plank it will be
best to purchase 2-inch plank and have it sawed and
planed to the required thickness. The edges should be
planed so as to have a bevel of 1-16 inch on each edge,
and when these planks are placed edge to edge it will
show a seam of about % inch iti width. Draw a line
through the center of the beams, and after cutting the end
of one of the pieces of plank to fit the transom, bring
the edge of the plank to the line and fasten. Add planks
on either side until you have the entire deck covered, tak-
ing due care to draw them close together. Calk the seams,
and pay them with thick lead paint. The filling of the
seams with white lead putty and planing the deck can bet-
ter be finished when you have the boat nearer completion.

Now start at the opposite end and fit in at the stem
an oak breast hook or knee, fasten to the clamps, sheer-
strake and stem. The plans show seventeen beams for
the raised deck; these should be of oak, sided Ij4 inches,
moulded i^ inches. They can be either cut with a crown
of S inches in 7 feet or steam bent to that shape. The
lower corners can be chamfered or rounded, and the
beams finished smooth. The next thing is to make a
strong back to set these beams on, and for this you can
take a piece of board about J-i inch thick and about 8
to 12 inches wide; set this so that the upper edge is the
height of the under side of the beams, fasten both ends
securely and proceed to cut the ends of the beams into the
clamp, fasten to same and to the heads of frames. Cut
out the covering boards, which are to be % inch thick
and 3 inches wide, spring around the edge of the sheer
and fasten to the beams and sheerstrake. Mark a center
line on the beams and proceed to lay the plank, which is
to be of cypress % inch thick, 3 inches wide. Fasten
them from above into the beams and also toenail, as this
will tend to draw the planks tight and make them close on
the under side. Plane the upper side smooth and then fit
in the grub beam, which is to be of oak 2x6 inches, the
upper edge of which is to be rabbeted to receive the stav-
ing at the after end of the house. This beam should be
fastened very securely, as it will prevent the hull from
spreading. The beams for the cockpit deck can be gotten
out; these are to be of oak, sided lyi inches, moulded
iJ4 inches, spaced 18 inches or fastened to each alternate
frame. It is a good plan to nail a strip of yellow pine or
oak about 1x2 inches to the frames at such a height that
the ends of the beams will rest on same, and the beams
should be fastened to this stfip as well as to the frames.
Set stanchions under the centers of the beams to make
them more rigid and to help support the cockpit deck.
Lay the cockpit deck plank in strips of pine the same
width and thickness as for the deck at the after end of
the boat. If you intend to finish this deck in natural

wood varnished, you will have to calk the seams and fill
them with white lead putty or marine glue, if you prefer
that material. Provided you intend covering the cock-
pit deck with canvas, the plank can be of either pine or
cypress; tongued and grooved stock is better for this
purpose than the square edged material if it is not to be
calked. When you have finished laying the deck you can
proceed to cut out the rabbeted pieces of oak. The curve
of the staving is so slight that this strip can be worked
out of straight stock and sprung to shape. Twenty feet
in length will make enough for the two sides and across

_3^

[I]

•site

-IT
<0

♦1"

■8 Slot

-H

Detail Drawing of Rudder

the front of the seat. Take your spirit level and set it
against the inside of the clamp, ascertain that it is phimb,
then make a mark on the cockpit deck plank ; continue
doing this at intervals on both sides until you have a
sufficient number of points to strike a line through with
a batten and make a curve that corresponds exactly to
the inside of the clamp. The line thus marked shows the
outside of the staving, and as the pieces of oak you have
rabbeted to receive the planking are 2 inches wide, you
will have to set the outside of this piece of oak i]/i inches
closer to the frames, as the staving is % inch thick, and
you want to set the staving perpendicular. If the deck
is covered with canvas, simply lay the oak pieces in thick

white lead and fasten closely to make it watertight, but
if you intend to have the deck bright, it would be ad-
visable to set the oak pieces on a strip of calking cotton
as well as using white lead. When you have set the'se
oak pieces you can proceed to set up the cockpit staving,
which is to be of cypress J-i inch thick, 2 inches wide,
tongued and grooved, and the edges bevelled on the in-
side or face. Cut the lower ends so that they fit the
oak pieces, set in white lead and fasten to same, and also
fasten to the clamp. Leave the upper ends of these
pieces of staving longer than you really require, as you
can cut them off to a fair line when you have finished the
staving. The staving at the after end of the cabin being of
the same material can also be set in position. The lower
ends are to, set into a rabbet on the grub beam, and the
upper ends are to be fitted to the under side of the raised
deck plank, where it projects over the beam, and are to
be fastened to the raised deck beam. A filler piece of
spruce of some such material i inch thick and 2^ inches
wide can be fitted in between the upper edge of the stav-
ing and the inside of the planking. The top of same is
to be the same height as the under side of the cap, and
when you have fastened in these pieces securely you can
proceed to get out the cap. The specifications- call for
the cap to be of oak 1% inches thick, 5 inches wide; this
will allow for yi an inch overlap on the outside of the
planking and afeo the same amount on the staving. Round
these edges and proceed to fasten in position. You will
most probably find that you cannot bend this piece of oak
to the proper shape without steaming it, and therefore it
would be advisable to steam it in the first place. Put in
plenty of fastenings, the filler piece and the edges of
the planking affording good places to fasten to. The heads
of the fastenings should be counter sunk and covered with
wood plugs, as should all the heads of the large fasten-
ings in any part that is to be finished bright.

The coaming for the cockpit hatch over the engine is to
be of oak; work this out to shape as per plans, allowing
for a waterway between the forward end and the grub
beam, and fasten to the deck and beams. Rabbet a piece
of oak 1J/2X2 inches to fit the upper edge of the coaming;
this piece is to be used for the frame of the hatch. Halve
the corners together and proceed to cover with %x2-inch
white pine strips as you did with the cockpit deck; if you
desire to finish bright, calk and fill the seams and put a
small oak ribbon around the outside to form a finish and
cover the wood ends. If covered with canvas this ribbon
should cover the fastenings.

The seat at the after end of the cockpit is not com-
pleted, and you can finish same before proceeding with
the cabin. The specifications call for the top of this seat
and the lazy back to be of mahogany, but it is simply a
matter of choice what you use ; mahogany stands the
weather and warps but little, but I have seen some very
fine looking seats and backboards made of cypress. Al-
low for part of the top of this seat to open, as there is
valuable space under it that can be used for storage, and
you might have to get under the after deck at some time
or another to renew the tiller rope, etc. Set in the lead
scuppers at the after corners of the cockpit, and it is
practically completed. These scuppers should be about
1% inches inside diameter, the flange on the upper side
should be set flush with the deck and the lower end of
scuppers flush with planking. It will be necessary to cut
a rabbet in plank to receive the flange. The fastenings
in the lead scuppers should be of copper.

The towpost and forward bitts can be gotten out and
fitted. These are to be of oak or locust 4x4 inches and
12 inches long. The part that fits the deck is to be trimmed
to'3j5x3j^ inches; a hole is to be cut through same, and
they arc to be driven in position and secured on the
under side with two oak or locust wedges. The towpost
can be set up, but the forward bitt cannot be fastened
in until you have covered the raised deck with canvas,

which you can now proceed to do. The canvas should be
lo-ounce material, 8 feet in width and 14 feet long. This
must be well stretched and fastened closely around the
edges with copper tacks. The usual method of laying a
canvas deck of this description is to cover the upper side
of the plank with a thick paint, stretch and fasten the
canvas, and then dampen the canvas with a sponge and
apply a coat of paint. The claim is that the moisture
tightens the canvas and the coat of paint prevents it from
relaxing. Owing to the diversity of opinions upon this
subject, I am going to state that I either set the canvas
in thick white lead paint and -yvhen stretched apply a
good coat of oil paint, using no water, or else I cover
the plank with Jeffrey's marine glue, and when the can-
vas has been stretched it is made to adhere to same by
being ironed with hot flat irons. Men who are well versed
in the handling of canvas or duck tell me that the oil
(linseed) destroys the cotton, and they ought to know.
The edges of the canvas, where fastened, should be cov-
ered with a ij4-inch half-round moulding.

Now that you have the deck finished you can remove
the piece of wood you used for the strong back and pro-
ceed with the interior.

Set the beams for the floor and lay the planking. There
should be three strips thr6ugh the center of the floor
which will not be fastened to the beams but cut up in suit-
able lengths and cleated together on the under side. These
you can remove at any time to clean out the bilge'.

The blocks for the lights are to be of cypress, lyi inches
in thickness ; the sizes vary from io>^ to 12 inches square,
according to the diameter of the glasses. The diameter
of glass in the clear is 8 inches for the two after lights
on either side and 7 inches for the forward ones, if you
intend using fixed lights. If you have decided to use
composition open ports they should be smaller; purchase
those with the round frames, as they do not have to be
cut into the planking, and present a much better appear-
ance than the hexagonal frame light. If you can obtain the
use of a lathe or get the blocks turned, you will save con-
siderable work, and while they are in the lathe you can
cut a rabbet ^4 inch deep on the face to receive the
ceiling. Mark on the outside of the plank the position
of the different lights and saw out the circle, then fit the
blocks from the inside, cut to the shape of the planking
and use plenty of screws or nails to secure them to the
planking.

The specifications call for the ceiling to be of cypress-
^ix2 inches, tongued and grooved, edges bevelled. Start
the first strip close to the under side of the raised deck
clamp, fit around the rabbet in the blocks and fasten to
same and to the frames. After you have fitted four strakes
you will find that the next strake will have to be cut at the
forward end for a certain distance, as it will bear against
the upper side of the clamp, and the next two strips will
be shorter in length for the same reason. If you fit
them carefully you will find that it looks well. The
proper way to ceil this space would be to take a spiling
and shape each piece so that there would be the same
number of pieces at one end as at the other, but so that
they would decrease in width as they neared the stem.
There would be little or no advantage in ceiling a boat
of this description in such a manner unless you were par-
ticular, but that is the proper way to put in a ceiling.
Work in the ceiling from the under side of the clamp to
the upper edge of the bilge clamp and, with the exception
of the toilet room, it will cover the inside of the frames.
If you want to make the interior look well you can ceil
from the under side of the bilge clamp in the toilet room
to the floor.

The companionway slide, runs, door frame, etc., can now
be gotten out. They do not need any explanation, as the
plans show the section of the hatch, etc. The specifica-
tions call for them to be of mahogany, but if you prefer
some other material, well and good — use it; but don't

use any wood that is apt to warp out of shape when
exposed to the elements or you will have a leaky com-
panion way slide. The doors, to look well, should be
panelled and made of ii^-inch stock with panels at least
Yz of an inch thick.

The rubstreaks can be of oak or teak, 2 inches wide.
If shaped as shown, it presents a better appearance than
if it were half round. Fasten well through the planking
into the frames and take care to have a fair curve, as
the apipearance of such a boat can easily be -spoiled when
the rubstreaks are set in position if they are not in a nice.

the size of the rudder stock and it will make a good
stuffing-box for such a rudder. I don't wish to convey
the impression that a stuffing-box made in this manner is
as good as having a proper one made, but, it is something
that can be purchased most anywhere, and therefore would
appeal to the amateur. The port should be carefully
threaded into the knee and horn timber, and if you cover
the thread with white lead and have it fit tight into the
wood it will not leak. Fig. 6 shows, the dimensions of
the rudder, and a simple way to make this is to buy a
piece of hard rolled Tobin bronze % inch thick and cut

ITT^

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LOCKER

Another Cabin Arrangement for the Nock 25 Foot Cabin Cruiser

fair line, and there is really no excuse for them being
otherwise, as you have your sheer line to work to.

When you have arrived at this point you have prac-
tically completed the hull. Fit a piece of ^ inch half-
round brass to the stem, to protect it. and bore for th;
rudder port if you have not already done so. For the
rudder port you will need a piece of i inch brass steam
pipe 18 inches in length. Have a locknut thread cut in
the lower end 5 inches in length, at the upper end you
will require a thread 2 inches in length. For the stuffing-
box you can purchase a standard i-inch brass cap and
also a small locknut of the same size. Bore the cap to

it to the required shape. For the stock you will need a
piece of Tobin bronze i inch diameter, 3 feet 8 inches in
length. Have a machinist mill a slot in this stock to
receive the blade ; square the head above the stuffing-box
to receive the quadrant and turn the lower end down to
}i inch diameter for a distance of Ij4 inches to form
a pintle for the shoe to hold the lower end of rudder
stock. You can either have the machinist rivet the blade
in place or do this work yourself, as it is not difficult. A
rudder made in this manner is well suited for so small a
craft. The shoe you can bend up out of a piece of brass
or bronze, but it is better to make a pattern and have this

cast. The quadrant is a standard article with d radius of
12 inches and can be purchased from any well-known
dealer in boat hardware. For the steering wheel you
can use either a drum steerer or one of the auto steerers
if you prefer to haVe a horizontal wheel; in either case
you will need a tiller rope about ^ inch diameter, and
this can be led either between the staving in the cock-
pit and the frames or else under the beams of the cock-
pit deck. Wherever this wire rope, if you use wire, makes
a sharp turn, it should run over a wheel with a diameter
of not less than 2j^ inches.

The interior can now be finished, and as I have shown
two cabin plans, you can please yourself which you use,
or perhaps you may have an idea of a cabin arrangement
which would meet your requirements much better. Un-
der any circumstances it is not worth while my explain-
ing how to set up staving, bulkheads, seats, etc., for if
you have finished your boat up to this point you will
find that such work as this is of no trouble whatever. If
you require any great amount of panel work, it would be
cheaper to have this made where they have machinery,
but I have purposely made the interior plain, thereby
making it easier to construct.

A word about the engine: if you intend to install it,
take just as much care in making up the joints on the
piping, etc., as you would in making the joints in the hull,
for it is of the utmost importance, and no matter how
long it takes, if done properlv, you will feel well repaid
for your trouble. Use a seamless, drawn bronze or copper
pipe for the gasolene supply, as this material does not de-
teriorate like brass pipe or crystallize like block tin pipe.
The proper methods of installing engines have been
thoroughly explained in Motor Boat before in detail,
therefore it would be useless for me to go into the mat-
ter. The gasoFene tanks figured for this boat are cyl-
indrical in form, lo inches diameter and 48 inches in
length. They are to be situated under the cockpit deck,
well out on either side of the engine. A small water
tank can be fitted under the after end of the berths in
the cabin if desired, and a pump could be set up at the

sink to supply the water for cooking and washing, and,
if one required it, a small folding lavatory could be fitted
in the toilet room.

The specifications mention the principal fittings, all of
which can be purchased from any reliable dealer in boat
hardware.

The finishing of the boat is quite important, the top
sides and under body should be planed smooth and fair,
then sandpapered and primed. Before the second coat is
applied the first coat should be well rubbed down with
fine sandpaper, and the same treatment to be applied every
time before you apply a coat of paint. The under body
should be treated in a similar manner, only in this case
you should apply either copper or some anti-fouling paint.
The designed ivater line,- Or the line shown on the plans
as the L. W. L. is supposed to represent the line of the
water when the boat is afloat, and it is a good plan to
mark a waterline on a boat of this size i^ to 2 inches
above this line and paint up to this point with the same
paint you use for the bottom, as it keeps the sides clean
and adds to the appearance of the boat. This line should
be marked on while the boat is in the stocks and scribed
in with an awl, as it makes it easier to cut to such a line
when painting.

All the bright work, such as rubstreaks, cockpit staving,
companionway, etc., should be treated. to one coat of
filler, rubbed down and then have three coats of spar
composition applied, each coat being rubbed down before
the next is laid on. The canvas should receive one coat
of canvas filler and two coats of deck paint. The in-
terior bright work should have one coat of filler and
two coats of a first-class interior varnish.

When you have completed the boat she can be removed
from the stocks and launched, and there is no need for
any explanation how to proceed to launch this craft.

Without doubt there are many minor things I have not
mentioned that will have to be done, but I have gone into
the matter in such a manner as I believe will make it
plain to those who think of building a boat of this sort
and have some fair knowledge of the use of tools.

Specifications for Construction of a 25-foot Cabin Cruiser

BY FREDERIC S. NOCK, EAST GREENWICH, R. I.

Dimensions

Length, overall 25 feet o inches

Length, waterline 23 feet 4 inches

Breadth, extreme 7 feet o inches

Breadth, at waterline 6 feet 5 inches

Draught, to Rabbet l foot 4 inches

Draught, extreme 2 feet I V2 inches

Material and Workmanship

In carrying out these specifications, there are to be used
only the best materials and workmanship. Proper care to be
given to the details of construction, fastenings, etc. All wood
shall be sound, clear and free from all defects, all pieces to
be cut fair with the grain, and all knees, etc., to be natural
crooks, all fastenings not otherwise specified to be of gal-
vanized iron.

Keel

To be of native white oak, sided 3 inches, moulded as per
plans and to be in One length, mill dressed to a uniform thick-
ness and finished smooth.

Stem

To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, moulded as per plans,
to be connected to the keel with an oak knee sided 3 inches,
to be properly fitted- and fastened with ^-inch diameter bolts
clinched over washers, heads to be countersunk and covered
with wood plugs.

Shaft-Log

To be of white oak, sided^*3 inches, built up of two pieces,
bored for shaft and to be securely fastened to the keel with
5-16-inch diameter bolts.

Horn Timber
To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, shaped as per plans, to
be securely fastened through shaft-log and keel with 5-16-inch .
diameter bolts.

Stern Post
To be of white oak, sided 3 inches, shaped as per plans, to
be carefully fitted and well fastened to the keel, etc.
Transom
To be of oak, 1 14 -inch thick, to be connected fo the horn
timber with an oak knee or hackmatack knee sided 2}^ inches
and fastened with J^-inch diameter bolts. Cheek pieces of
oak I inch thick are to be securely fastened to the inside edge
of the transom to form a back rabbet and fasten the planking
to.

Frames
To be of white oak, i^xi^ inches, spaced 9 inches center
to center, frames wherever possible are to extend from gun-
wale to gunwale in oiie piece, and to be securely fastened to
the keel, frames aft of forward end of shaft-log are to be
mortised into a cheek piece of oak 1 inch thick which same
is to be well fastened to the keel and shaft-log and the lower
edge cut to form a back rabbet for the garboard.

Floors
To be of white oak, ij^xi^ inches, to be securely fastened
to the keel and through the sides of th{ frames, floors aft of
forward end of shaft-log to be sawn -to shape, carefully
fastened to the keel and through the frames.
Bilge Clamps
To be of yellow pine 154x4 '"ches amidship, tapered at

ends to l]/2X3'/2 inches, length of taper 7 feet, to be securely
fastened through frames.

Deck Clamps
To be of yellow pine i}4x4 inches, upper and lower edges
to be chamferred from forward end for a distance of 14 feet,
to be securely fastened through frames and at each athwart-
ship frame to have one fastening through clamp, frame and
strake, heads of fastenings to be sunk in strake and covered
with wood plugs.

Raised Deck Clamp
To be of yellow pine 15^x3;^ inches, lower edge bevelled,
to be well fastened to the frames and at each alternate frame
to have one fastening through cjamp, frame and sheerstrake.
PlankiNg
To be of yellow pine in long lengths, to finish J4-inch
thick, where butts occur same to be reinforced with oak
blocking and to be securely fastened, heads of fastenings to
be covered with wood plugs. All fastenings to be of gal-
vanized iron chisel point nails clinched on the inside of the
fromes. Seams to be tight on the inside, and planed with a
suitable bevel for calking, seams to be calked with yacht cot-
ton, payed with white lead and finished flush with white lead
putty, exterior to be carefully planed smooth and fair, and
sandpapered before being painted, inside of plank to be coped
to fit the frames wherever necessary.
Keelson
To be of oak or yellow pine, as desired, 2x4 inches, to be
scarfed and fitted to knee at stem, and to be well fastened
through floors and into keel.

Engine Bed
To be of oak, constructed to meet the requirements of the
engine. Fore and aft bearers to be sided 3 inches, carefully
fitted over frames and securely fastened to same, athwartship
bearers to be sided 254 inches, to be carefuUy fitted to the
plank and securely fastened to the keel and fore and aft
bearers.

Deck Beams
To be of oak, sided i!4 inches, moulded i^ inches, spaced
as per plans, to be cut with a crown oi lYz mches in five feet,
ends to be mortised into deck clamp and well fastened.
Raised Deck Beams
To be of oak, sided i54 inches, moulded ij4 inches, spaced
9 inches, crown of beams S inches in seven feet, and to be
either sawn to shape or steam bent as desired. Ends of
beams to be cut into clamp and securely fastened to same and
heads of frames.

Raised Deck Covering Boards
To be of oak, J^-inch thick, 3 inches in width, sprung to
shape and securely fastened to the beams, clamps and sheer-
strake.

Raised Deck Plank
To be of cypress %-inch thick, 3 inches wide, tongued and
grooved and edges bevelled on the underside, to be well
fastened to the beams, the top planed smooth and fair and
covered with lo-ounce canvas properly stretched and bedded
in white lead, edges to be fastened with copper tacks and
covered with i54-'nch half round oak moulding.
Deck Plank
To be of white pine ^X2 inches, to be well fastened to the
beams, heads of fastenings covered with wood plugs, seams
I calked, payed with white lead and finished flush with white
lead putty.

Cockpit Deck Beams
To be of oak, sided xYi inches, moulded 1^4 inches, spaced
18 inches center to center, ends of beams to be fastened to the
frames and supported on stanchions in center.
Cockpit Deck Plank
To be of white pine ^x2 inches, to be well fastened to the
beams, heads of fastenings covered with wood plugs, seams
calked with yacht cotton, payed with_ white lead and finished
flush with white lead putty, or if desired, deck to be covered
with lo-ounce canvas properly stretched and bedded in white
lead.

Grub Beam
To be of oak, 2x6 inches, upper edge to be rabbeted to re-
ceive the- %-inch staving at after end of house, ends to be
well fastened to the .frames.

Cockpit Hatch and Coaming
Coaming' to be of oak 1V2 inches thick, cut with a rabbet
on the upper edge for hatch as per plans, after end of coam-
ing to be securely fastened to the beam, forward end to be
cut with a waterway as per plans and to be securely fastened

to the grub beam, hatch frame to be of oak cut with a rabbet
to fit the coaming, and covered with white pine ^ x 2 inches,
seams calked as per deck or covered with canvas as desired,
if canvas covered there is to be an oak nosing around same
to cover the fastenings.

Cockpit Staving
To be of oak or cypress, ^x2 inches, tongued and grooved,
edges bevelled, to be well fasfened to the clamp and lower
ends set into a rabbeted piece o'f oak as per plans and securely
fastened, forward end of cockpit seat and after end of house
to be staved up in the same, material, a filler piece of spruce
or some suitable material is to be worked to shape and fitted
between the upper ends of staving and strake and securely
fastened, and to this is to be fastened the upper ends of the
staving.

Cap
To be of oak, i]4, inches thick, 5 inches in width, edges
rounded, to be fitted over top of staving and upper strake and
to be well fastened, heads of fastenings to be covered with
wood plugs.

Cockpit Seat and Lazy Back
To be of mahogany %-inch thick, top of seat to be arranged
to lift up, lazy back to be removable.

Cabin Doors, Frame, Companionway, Hun and Slide
To be constructed as per plans of mahogany.

Forward Bitt and Towpost
To be of oak or locust 4x4 i,nches, to be 12 inches in length,
6 inches above the deck, and the part that passes through
deck is to have a slot mortised through same and to be
wedged up K) the oak blocks with oak or locust wedges, there
are to be two rivets in each bitt below the opening for wedges.
Rubstreaks
To be of oak, 2 iiiches wide, and about ^-inch thick, shaped
as per plans, to be well fastened to the plank and frames.
Blocks for Portlights
To be of cypress, 1Y2 inches thick, shaped to fit the inside
of the. planking and to be securely fastened to same, face to
be cut with a rabbet J^-inch deep to receive the ceiling.
Ceiling
To be of cypress, fSx2 inches, tongued and grooved, edges
bevelled, to be well fastened to the frames and to extend from
the underside of the raised deck clamp to the top of transoms,
etc.

Cabin Floor Beams
To be of oak, sided 1% inches, moulded i54 inches, spaced
18 inches, ends to be well fastened to frames and supported .
in center where necessary.

Cabin Floor Plank

To be of yellow pine ^ of an inch thick, laid in strips 4
inches wide, the three center strips are to be cleated and cut
up in short lengths to make suitable traps for access to the
bilge, the balance of the plank to be well fastened to the
beams.

Forward Bulkhead

To be of cvoress staving, ^x3 inches, tongued and grooved,
edges bevelled, door to be of the same material to be well
cleated to prevent warping.

Center Bulkheads ^ '

To be of cypress staving, ^x3 inches, tongued and'grooved,
edges bevelled.

Transom Fronts

To be staved up with JS^x3 inch cypress, mopboard 4 inches
wide of cypress, and facing strip of either cypress or oak 3
inches wide.

Transom Tops

To be of cypress 5^-inch thick, to be supported on beams,
and suitable traps to be cut in same to admit of using space
under berths for storage.

Galley, Etc.

Sides of lockers, front of stove locker, ice-box, etc., to be
built up of ^x3 inch cypress staving, locker doors of same ma-
terial, ice-box top, shelves, etc., to be of ^-inch cypress, ice-
box to be sheathed with 54-inch spruce and lined with zinc,
stove space to be lined with zinc. An enameled iron sink
12x16 inches is to let into the top of the ice-box and fitted
with a lead discharge pipe to drain overboard. Lockers on
either side to hf fitted with shelves, etc., to meet the require-
ments of the owner.

Companionway Steps

To be of oak or cypress, shaped as per plans and fitted with
chocks for feet, also hooks and eyes for upper end, steps are
to be removable to admit of starting engine.

Fittings, Etc.

To comprise: — One small yacht closet properly set and
plumbed, one 12x16 inch enameled iron sink properly plumbed,
one Khotal or Primus two burner galvanized iron frame, two
round frame open port lights 6 inches diameter for toilet
room, four 8-inch round frame fixed lights and two 7-inch
ditto for galley and cabin. All interior hardware, such as
catches, hinges, bolts, etc., to be of brass or bronze. Brass
or bronze stem band, bronze rudder, bronze shoe, brass rud-
der port and stuffing-box, galvanized irorr quadrant, gal-
vanized steel tiller rope, galvanized iron wheel leads for tiller
rope, brass and wood steering wheel, one pair of polished
brass bow chocks, one pair polished brass quarter chocks,
brass padlock and hasp, etc. Scuppers in cockpit deck to be
of lead pipe Ij4-inch diameter.

Motor, Etc.

To be a double cylinder 2 stroke engine, 4 inch bore, 4j4

inch stroke^ weight complete not to exceed 350 pounds. All
accessories for eflgine, such as piping, fittings, gasolene tanks
of 20 gallons' capacity each, shaft, propeller, stuffing-box,
wiring, coil, magneto, etc., to be furnished complete.

Painting, Finishing, Etc.

Entire interior of hull to receive one coat of priming paint
before being ceiled, exterior of hull to be finished smooth,
and carefully sandpapered and given one coat of priming
paint and three coats of pure white lead paint to tiic Vvater-
line, underbody to receive two coats of copper or Anti-Foul-
ing paint. All exterior bright work to be treated to one coat
of filler and three coats of Spar Composition. House deck
and all parts covered with <anvas are to be treated to one
coat of canvas filler and two coats of U. S. Deck paint. In-
terior bright work to be treated to one coat of, filler and two
coats of Cabinoleum or LX.L. varnish.

OUTBOARD PROFILE AND DECK PLAK

How to Build a Single Step Hydroplane

By George F. Crouch

THE racing results of the season of the past year have
shown clearly that the hydroplane type of boat has
come to stay. Every important race — referring, of
course, to the speed boat classes — was won by some type of
"hydro." Weather conditions had much less effect on
their speed than we had been led to expect ; and, taken
as a whole, I believe that they were better performers in
rough weather than the displacement boats of equal length
and less speed.

Riding in a good "hydro" is a joy which can be found
in no other sport. The little boats are so "alive," they
respond so quickly, turn in almost their own length and
flutter over the surface of the water in a delightful way.
A displacement boat seems dead' after one has become
accustomed to the hydro. One misses the "pat-pat-pat"
of the hydro as it glides over the ripples and one misses its
stiffness. The displacement racer seems to heel down on
her beam ends as if she were never coming back while
the hydro keeps moving along on an even keel.

The progress of the last
year in hydroplane design
is a surprise to all who
have closely followed the
course of development. At
first it was thought that
the hydroplane must be
niarveloHsly light and
every' effort was made to
cut down weight; hulls
were pared to the limit,
rriotors of the lightest pos-
sible types were chosen,
and in some cases this
weight reduction was car-

GENERAL DIMENSIONS OF HYDROPLANE

Length, overall 19 feet 4 inches

Beam, extreme (at planksheer, out-
side Yi round) 4

Beam, extreme (at chine) 4

Depth of hull (forward) 2

" " (amidship) 2

" " (aft) 2

Draft of hull (at rest)

Draft (at rest, with 18-inch wheel) 2

ried to a point where light men were chosen for the
crew. No doubt this was the correct thing to do with
the hulls used, but the latest models show that fairly
heavy construction and a medium weight racing motor
can be used with almost equally good results as far
as speed is concerned, and much better results when
endurance and reliability are considered.

The little boat, which is the subject of this article,
is of this lat-est medium weight type. The hull is not
extremely light but the construction is such that it is
unusually stiff and rig'd. As may be noticed, the cross
floors,' the keel and the two fore and aft stringers form
a strong truss even without the planking and the fore and
aft edge stringers.

The hull is of the single step type, the step being formed
by putting a metal plane on the hull after it has been
completely planked. It is not necessary to explain the
manifold advantages of an applied metal plane as any
one interested in hydroplanes knows them. With re-
gard to the hull construc-
tion it is not an easy
matter to show a boat
which will be easily built
and yet possess all the
strength, rigidity and
lightness that the boat
turned out by the profes-
sional builder will show.
The general scheme which
I have used is that of
having no bent or steamed
frames whatsoever. The
moulds, instead of being
made of rough material.

8J4

11.

are to be of selected spruce, nicely finished and put to-
gether as shown on the drawmgs of the molds or frames.
These molds stay m the hull and take the place of the
ordinary system of framin? so care must be used in
getting them out and m finishmg them. In fact, through-
out the whole construction anything put on the work
stays there in the completed hull. There are no molds to
rip out after the boat is planked, no ribbands to be used
m "fairing up" and then taken off again.

Although the construction is fairly simple, it is a much
more difficult boat to build than the Water-Bug, the plans
and building instructions of which were published in
Motor Boat for January 10 and 25, 1911, and I, there-
fore recommend that boat for those who have never had
any boat-building experience rather than for them to at-
tempt this new one The troubles which the beginner
would find in building to this new design are riot so much
in the hull itself — although the planking of concave "veed"
bottom means work — as in the motor and drive installa-
tion I have counted on using a gear drive to the pro-
peller shaft as this gives a good shaft angle and allows the

motor to be placed well aft. This motor position is of
utmost importance in a boat designed to carry a fairly
heavy motor. Since motors differ so widely in power,
size and weight, I cannot give definite measurements for
the driving gear and motor beds, so the builder must
use his ingenuity and experience in following out in
detail what I can only indicate in a general way

The motors which may be used in this hull range in
power from 40-hp. to 120-hp. I would not advise using
much less than 40-hp. and the weight of such a motor
should be not over 600 pounds. The speed to be ex-
pected with such an equipment is 28 to 30 miles an
hour, while with a 120-hp. motor weighing about 1,000
pounds the speed should be about 40 miles an hour. Any
motor between these two should give proportionate re-
sults. Of course you would not use a 40-hp motor weigh-
ing 1,000 pounds for the weight should be in proportion
to the power If a motor too heavy for the power is
used, the boat will not "get up" but will plough along
at canal boat speed The motors should be of fairly high
speed capable of turning somewhere between 900 and 1,500
r p.m., and the driving gear can be proportioned to suit
the motor chosen so that the propeller will turn 1,500 to
1,600 r.p.m.

I will not stop to tell you how to choose a place to
build the boat nor what tools you will need, as I assume
that you have some knowledge of boat building and know
that small boats are always built under cover, that a
hammer is used to drive nails, and so on.

The first step toward the actual construction of the
boat is to get out the^keel, stem, transom and the knees for
connecting them together. The plan of the keel and the
keel sections gives full information as to size and form
of the keel. If possible, the keel should be in one length
and the best material to use is white oak, although yellow
pine might be used as a substitute in case it is impossible
to secure oak. Between molds No. 3 and No. 7 the
keel has considerable bend in it, and it will be neces-

sary to take the stiffness out of it by steaming in a
long steam box or by pouring boiling water upon it until
the required bend can be given to it. If you cannot se-
cure a piece of oak long enough to make the keel in one
piece, two pieces may be used and the joint between
them stiffened by an oak butt strap about 2 feet long,
thoroughly riveted to each part of the keel.

The stern is a piece of white oak shaped as shown on
the detail plan. The rabbet should be roughly cut to
form, as should that of the keel, leaving the finishing
touches to be given after the frames have been set up and
the boat is ready for planking. The knee joining the
stem to the keel is sided 1^ inches, the same as the stem
and may be made of hackmatack or even of straight
grained oak, in which the oak should, of course, run
diagonally between the stem and the keel. Note the
stopwater where the keel joins the stern.

The transom should be made ready next. It is of ^-
inch mahogany or oak shaped as shown in the transom
detail. It is too deep to be made in one piece, so the
separate parts must be joined together and then stiffened
by vertical pieces of oak as shown. Do not cut the
round at the top of the transom down to the line, but
leave that until the deck is on.

In getting out the molds or frames, which is the next
operation, you will find it a good plan to make full sized
drawings of these molds on heavy paper or on a clean
board before you start in. These full sized drawings
will allow you to compare the shape of the pieces you
are making with the required shape and to check the
completed mold after you have riveted it together. This
drawing should be made for both sides of the mold
from the dimensions given on the mold or frame de-
tails. These dimensions on this drawing are given to
the inside of the plaftking.

The molds themselves are of spruce, the pieces up the

sides being 3 inches wide and % of an inch thick, the
bottom cross floors are 1 inch thick in way of the
motor and gear drive, and are J4 of an inch at the
ends of the boat. The pieces should be cut to shape
and then riveted together as shown, using corner pieces
of oak yi inch thick. The molds which have deck beams
may have these cut and fitted at the same time as tlie
other parts of the molds. The molds on which beams
are not required must be held across the top by a tem-
porary cross piece in order to keep them from spreading
or squeezing together. Do not cut any notches in the
molds for the fore and aft ribbands, that covers up^the
seams between the planks until after the frame is set
up, but the notches to take the keel, the chine and the
clamp should be cut as shown on the. drawings. When set-
ling up the molds be careful, to get them spaced just
as shown on the plans, or else you will find that there
will be trouble in getting the proper bevel on the molds
after the plank edge battens have been run in.

After the various parts have been prepared as de-
scribed, they should be "set up." I am not going into
any great detail with regard to "setting up" the molds
as the drawings show clearly the relation of the parts
to each other. The boat may be built upside down or
right side up equally well. Some builders' will prefer
the first method and others the second. Whichever you
use, be sure that all parts are securely fastened and that
the molds are all parallel and square across the center
line. If you set the molds in an inverted position, which
is probably the easier method for the amateur, the keel
should be kneed to the transom as shown, and fit into
the notches cut in the molds to receive it, and should
then be bolted to the knee at the stern. Make sure that
the bend in the keel does not force any of the molds
out of position. The chine piece of 1 inch by 1 inch
yellow pine or spruce should then be run fore and aft

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DETAIL OF HOLDS

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in the notches at the corners of the molds and should
be connected to the tfansom by knees and to each side
of the keel at the fore end by oak blocks as shown in
the sketch. The clamp is next run in by the same method,
the size and material being the same as for the chine.

If the notches for the clamp, the chine and the keel
have been cut square to the edges of the molds you
will notice that the clamp, chine and keel will not fit
evenly into these notches but will bear on one edge of
the molds as shown in the sketch ; particularly on the
molds in the fore part of the boat. The notches must
be trimmed down to the line shown in the sketcJi so
that the clamp, chine and keel bear evenly on the molds
and are then fastened in place by long brass screws or
by long copper rivets if you so desire. The screws for
fastening the chine and clamp should be about 2 inches
long and those for the keel about 4 inches. The clamps
on each side of the boat should be connected to each
other and to the stern by a "breast hook," and should
be kneed to the transom. The fore end of the chine is
connected to the keel at the fore end by a triangular
piece of oak which is shown in detail on the drawing of

DETAIL OF MOLDS

the fore erd of the keel. These pieces should be fastened
to the sides of the keel by long rivets or by long brass
screws. At the transom the chine is fastened by knees
similar to ttiose used to secure the clamp

The edges of the molds have been cut off square
to the side of the molds, and if you take a long batten
and bend it along the molds at the sides or the bottom,
you will find that the batten touches only one edge of
the mold and that the 'molds must be trimmed at an
angle or level before a long batten will bear evenly
on all the molds anywhere on the surface/ which is
to be planked. This iDeveling is the next operation and
is done most easily by using a spoke shave cutting down to
the proper angle by trial with a batten or long thin
straight piece of wood. One of the pieces of spruce J4
inch by 1 inch, which you will use later to run under the
edges of the planks, will do very nicely for this work.
After the molds have been beveled this batten should
bend smoothly anywhere over the molds and should
touch the full width of the mold edge.

It will be noticed that where the chine is run in
the notches that the bottom of the chine does not ex-
actly carry out the line of the mold on the two for-
ward frames, but should do so on the other molds. The
bottom of the chine should be planed to carry out the
form given by the molds, and, of course, the outside
of the chine should be flush with the sides of the molds.

The material for the battens, which are run fore and
aft to cover the seams of the planking should next be
prepared. For this you will need 16 pieces, each 20 feet
long, of clear, straight-grained spruce 1 inch wide and
Yi, inch thick. As may be seen on the midship section,
the bottom planking consists of five planks on each side
of the keel and the side planking of five planks above
the chine. On the bottom, therefore, four of these bat-
tens are required on each side of the keel and these
should be spaced so that they divide the bottom at
frame No. 4 into 5 equal parts. I believe you will find
it a simpler job to run these bottom battens about parallel
to the center line of the keel, as shown in the sketch. The
batterns should be held in the desired position by wire
nails through them into the molds, and after marks have
been made where the edges of the battens cross the
molds they should be taken off and notches cut to
receive the battens. Care should be taken to"' have the
inside edges of the battens bear snugly against the bot-

SKETCH SHOWING HOW BATTENS TO TAKE EDGES OF FLANH ABE ETTN ALONG BOTTOM OF BOAT

torn of the notches, and to have the battens fair and
smooth for the whole length.

Where the bottom battens meet the chine they should
be fastened to it by a couple of screws or rivets, as
shown in the detail sketch. At the stern these battens
are let into the frame which is fastened to the fore
side of the transom and fastened to it by a screw through
the end of the batten.

The battens for the sides should be run in and notched
into the molds in exactly the same fashion ; they should
be spaced to divide the side into five planks of about
equal width, and should be fair and smooth throughout
their length and should be flush with the molds, con-
nect the pairs on the opposite sides of the boat where
they come together at the stern by a breast hook and let
them into the frame on the transom just as you did the
bottom battens.

These battens, both along the bottom and the sides,
should be fastened to the molds by 2-inch brass screws
with the heads well countersunk into the battens.

When this is finished you will have a good idea of the
form of the boat and will doubtless find it different from
anything you have seen before. She is flat forward and
flat aft with a fairly sharp section right amidships. The
flat sections at the ends are so designed to give her a
big lifting power. When running at full speed she really
breaks the water with the sharp V-ed section of her
forward plane, and this sharp section will make her
easier and faster in rough water than she would be with
a flat plane.

After trimming up the rabbet in the keel and stern,
which may be done by laying a J|-inch thick strip along
the battens and fitting it into the rabbet on the keel
and stern, the boat is ready for planking. The material
of the planking as called for on the midship section, is
^ inch mahogany, but clear white cedar or white pine
could be used equally well. Mahogany is more ex-
pensive but it is also much stronger and will take a bet-
ter finish than the other woods. It is also somewhat
heavier but the difference in weight is much more ap-
parent when the wood is dry than it is after the boat has
been in the water for some time.

Start planking the bottom first and fit the garboards
into the rabbet in the keel and have the other edge come
on the center of the first batten. In order to do this
you will have to take a spiling, using a thin board clamped
or lightly nailed in place and marking off the points
on it after the fashion which has been explained again
and again in Motor Boat. Owing to the curvature of the
hollow V-ed sections you will doubtless find it necessary
to make the garboard and the next plank somewhat
thicker and then work this hollow into the planks with a
plane. The planks should be fastened to the keels and
to the battens with copper nails riveted over burrs and
fastened to the mold and stern by screws. Set the heads of
the rivets and screws flush with the outside of the plank
as the plank is too light to allow any countersinking and
plugging without weakening the fastening unduly.

The fore end of the garboard should be carried on out
a little beyond the outside of the chine, and at the after
end the garboard should butt against the flat of the tran-
som. The same is true of all' the other bottom planks.
After the garboard has been fitted, and fastened in place,
the next plank should be cut to the proper shape, and so
on, each plank being cut from a spiling taken similarly to

DETAILS OF KEEL, STEM, CHINE AND KNEES,
SHOWING THEIH CONNECTION AT BOW

Section iV-s 8

^edionN^dl

Section N^?

Section N^ I

-1*
Section N^6

Section N^S

Secfion N^O

KEEL SEOTIOirS

?ulfdfeT;e^??h?IiS°af thf /"" ' T' ""'^ ^^^ ^^^
up against the flat ai2 \ ^°'^ ^"''' ^"'^ ^'^o^ld butt

D ank h J 1. "^"^ ° P^'"^ 'h'^kly that part of the

S'^or a Je^v thi„?.Tr' '^' edge batten with wh^e

SraiTtt^ hf f^^^^ be^iUrbout tt^

the'^^t^K/'the'jiatLT^ "^'' " '^'°" ^^^'^'' "'^^

oui^fje'edee ofiCrSf J'''rf°'^-P'l'^'y P^^""^^-^' ^""1 the
ou s de line n/ttt Pv"*" ""^'l'' '? '^"^^ and fair with the
tVnHJrJ : ^^ ''^'"^' 3^ the side planks are to be ex-

irlmsmJl^t^l '" P"l°"' ?«ingthe planks to shape

stated IhnviTi, 7?"- ^^'"^^-"^ 1^°"°™ plank, as
s^?af ?h:- boTiXri^ei^l tc%td ^L^ie^^^ f/
"IfrihThl.T'^ ^^ the'cEi^e^dgeTatteS a^n'd da^p!
=n^! 'h^h"' has been planked, smooth up the endre
surface, first going over all rivet heads with a file to 7et
them flush wuh the wood, using emery cloth to brS

facT'^Thls 'smooth'"' "°°^ '"/"^^^' ^° a°smooth'sur'
as much of T"^. "P 'S°^ ^^^ """°^t importance,
surface fraction T/''^"'^" °K? hydroplane is*^ due to
sunace friction. After smoothing up, mve the hull j.
good coat of wood filler, allow if to dvTard and then
sandpaper again Then give the bottom a thorough S
of varmsh or bottom paint, whichever you desfre I
would be wise to use at least two, or better three coas
of varnish or of bottom paint, but since this prelfminarv
coat IS given merely to allow us to put on the brass '
plane and since the parts of the hull that are not cov
ered by the plane can be finished and painted "a ter It
woud be a ted:ous and perhaps unnecessary delay to wa
for the drying of these successive coats

You are now ready to put on the brass plane. This is
made of hard sheet brass, about one-sixteen h of an
inch thick The total length of the plane is 4 feet 5

Ztl- ^^^ P""*''^" °\ '^^ P'^"^ 's ^hown on the in
board profile, extending from the fore side of frame No '
6 to the after side of frame No. 4. The appearance of the
step formed by the plane is shown in'^a sketch As
may be seen, oak wedges, 2 inches deep at the step are
spaced about 5/. inches apart. The bottoms of^these
wedges are straight Imes, and taper out to nothing at
the fore side of frame No. 6. The wede-e at the k^^i T=
made the full width of the bottom of the'^Lel, for itti
not be possible to get one sheet of brass of the width re-
quired. The two pieces of which the plane must be com-
posed come together down the middle line of this middle
wedge and must be very thoroughly secured to this wedge
with brass screws, spaced not over an inch apart The
wedges are fastened to the floors of frames Nos 4 and 5
by long brass screws, put in from the outside, and be-
tween the frame screws are put down from the inside of
the plank into the wedges. After the wedges are all on
fair up the surface defined by the wedges by bending a
thin strip of wood over them, and noting whether it
lies smoothly over all the strips. Plane up the bottoms
of the wedges until you can do this. The brass plates are
next secured in pace. At the fore edge they are screwed
through the plank into the floor on frame No. 6 using
lyi-mch brass screws spaced as shown in the sketch

Ult^'fleff-

MIDSHIP SECTION

Do not let the fore edge of the plane into the plank,
as this would cause weakness at this point. Simply file
it down at a bevel; it will make very little resistance,
as at extreme high speeds the boat will practically run
on the plane itself and not on the forward part of the
planking. The planes must be fastened to each of the
wedges by brass screws, spaced about three inches apart
along the line of the wedge. All screwheads should, of
course be flush. Particular care must be taken to have
the fastening at the forward edge of the plane very
carefully done, for if it were possible for the wat-er to
force its way under this plane, it would soon rip it off.
The after part of the plane at the step is left entirely
open. When at rest, water may flow into the -space be-
tween the outside of the planking and the upper side of
the plane, but as soon as the boat is under way, it will
drain out. If you wish to make a very fancy job, set
the screw heads a little bit below the level of the brass,
and then put a drop of solder over the heads. Next file
this solder down flush, but there is no great need of doing
this, if the slots in the screw heads are all placed in a
fore and aft line, and the solder would be a great hin-
drance should you wish to remove the plane to get at
the hull underneath. The plane should be finished by
being polished by emery, either a fine emery cloth ■ or
emery flour.

You are now ready to tuin the hull over and put on
the deck. The beams are shown on the molds, which
give the curvature as part of a circle having a certain
radius. These circular arcs can be easily drawn in by
taking a long strip of wood, driving a wire nail into one
end of it, measuring off the required radius from this
nail, and drilling a small hole through which you may
put the point of a pencil, then use this just as you would
a compass to draw the arc. The top of the clamp and
the top of the upper side plank should be cut to carry
out the curve shown by the beams. The general scheme
of deck construction is exactly that of the planking, but
the material is somewhat lighter, and is of the size shown
on the midship section.

The length of cockpit shown will do very nicely for a
40 or 50-h.p. motor, but, of course, if you intend to install
a large motor, you will have to carry the cockpit one
frame farther forward. This is something that you can
readily determine for yourself, and depends on the motor
chosen. Put in the spruce stringer to which the cockpit
coaming is to be fastened, making it 1 inch by Wi inches,
and running it in the notches inside of the upright parts
of the frames. Run this stringer only between the beams
at fore and after ends of the cockpit. Screw this stringer
to each mold, and between each mold and the consecutive
one put in two short blocks, filling the space between the
clamp and this stringer. Then using a long one-eighth-
inch rivet, make a thorough fastening at these points be-
tween the stringer and the clamp. At the fore end of the
cockpit, pine cornerpieces about 2 inches thick
should be cut out, to take the curve of the
(kM-Kf^ cockpit. If you are experienced, you could of
• ^' ' 'f course change the fore end of the cockpit to the
more fashionable flared V type of coaming.
Fair up the upper edge of the cockpit stringer to
the lines indicated by the beam in the clamp, and then
arrange edge battens of spruce 1 inch wide and half an
inch thick, to eo under the edges of the deck plank, as
shown on am-.dship section. This deck is shown in fairl>
wide pieces, only one-fourth of an inch thick, and shoulc
be easily applied if the battens are spaced about as showr
on the amidship sections, and are run fore and aft, practi
cally parallel to the center line of. the boat. Notches foi

HALF SECTION, FOBWARD
FACE OF TEANSOM

SECTION AT AFT END OF STEP LOOKING FOEWAHD

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FASIENINe AT FOBE EDGE OF
PLANE

SKETCH SHOWING
HOW NOTCHES
IN MOLDS ARE
TRIMMED TO -
TAKE C«INE AND
CLAMP

SKETCH SHOWING CONNECTION OF

SEAM BATTEN TO CHINE OR

CLAMP

the battens should be cut after the method uSed for the
edge battens of the plank. The deck plank should be
fastened with screws and rivets similar to the method used
on the planking. Carry the planking to the outside of the
side plank. Then trim it off smoothly and fairly with the
side, covering the joipt with a 1-inch haff round of
mahogany. A deck built after this fashion is light,
strong and tight, but is not- as handsome as the canvas
deck, or the deck laid in narrew pieces'.

The coaming is of oak or mahogany, J^ of an inch
th'ck. If prine or cedar is used for p'lank -and deck, oak
might be used for the coaming, but it w6uld, of course,
be impossible to use oak on a mahogany planked boat.
The coaming should be 434 inches above the deck at the
fore end, 3J^ inches at the aft 'end. The detail of- fitting
the coaming is extremely simple, and space prohibits
going into it in this article.

Slatted floors, about y% of an inch thick, are shown on
the plan. It is advisable to make these floors so that
they may be removed in sections, as in this way you will
be able to get at the bottom of the boat without ripping
up the floor. The steering wheel of the simple drum
type is shown placed on a thwart, an arrangement which
gave unusually good satisfaction in Water Bug and is
reproduced here. If the motor is exceptionally long, it
niay perhaps be necessary to dispense with this thwart
and use a vertical post with a horizontal steering wheel

In getting in the shaft line, fhe approximate position
of the shaft hole is readily seen from the drawing. Bore
a comparatively small hole at about the position shown,
putting on a small btock on the keel to start the hole
through the shaft at the bevel. Then from a point at the
proper distance below the transom, as indicated on the
drawing, pass a wire through this hole to the point
shown on the mold as indicated, stretching the wire very
tight. Then cut out around this hole, until it is large
enough to clear the propeller shaft that you intend to
use. The shaft line shown on the plans will take an
18-inch or 19-inch propeller. If you intend to use only
a 16-inch propeller, it is advisable to decrease the shaft
line from the bottom of the boat at the transom by about
an inch. Use your common sense in making these allow-
ances, as it is impossible to design a hydroplane to carry
any old size of motor, and have everything work out
to certain fixed dimensions. The motor bed is formed
by fore and aft spruce stringers, set on the floor inside
of two 3-inch by li^-Jnch spruce stringers; the lighter
stringers run the full length of the boat, and are fastened

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METHOD OF SECURING PROPELLER TO SHAFT

to the floors by long rivets running clear through the
stringers and through the floors. The heavier bed
stringers are notched over the floors and are also riveted
to them, but extend only the length required by tTie motor
and reverse gear.

The transmission gear to drive the propeller shaft is a
thing concerning which it is almost impossible*- to give
definite detailed dimensions, unless the motor is kno\yn,
its power known, in order to estimate the stresses which
the gear must withstand. The gear should be made by
an experienced machinist of the very highest class, one '
accustomed to high grade automobile construction will
know about what is required, as this transmission is
similar in general principle and in thg degree of skill
required in its manufacture to that used on cars. The
case should be of aluminum, about one-fourth of an
inch thick, for a 50-hp. motor and about 5/16 of an inch
thick for a 100-hp. motor. Lugs should be cast at the
sides to carry the gear on a foundation built to receive it.
This foundation, although it need not be extremely long,
should be very substantial, is all the thrust of the pro-
peller comes upon it, and besides that it is under con-
siderable twist, due to the propeller and motor torque.
The casing should have both, the front and back all in
one casting, as a much more accurate machine job can
be obtained, than when one of the faces is made as a
cover plate and bolted up against the rest of the casting.
If made as Suggested, a cover plate at the top serves to
introduce the gears, through which the shafts are slipped
afterward. The drawing- shows clearly the type of trans-
mission gear, advised. It is, of course, of the ball-bearing
type, using annular ball-bearings of liberal size. The
propeller shaft is fitted with a ball-thrust bearing for
both reverse and ahead motion. In the, gear shown, tjie
upper gear on the motor shaft has 37 t-eeth of six pitch ;
the lower gear has 36 teeth of 6 pitch. This geat is suit-
able for about a 60-hp. motor. The gears have IJ^-inch
face, and the sbaCts are about 13/16 inches in diameter.
The gears are held on the shafts by parallel feather
keys. The casing is of aluminum, Yn, of an inch thick.
It should be nOted that a filling plug for oil is placed at
the top of the casing, a drain plug at the bottom, and an
oil level plug at the side. For the larger powers it would
be advisable to use gears of 5 pitch instead of 6 pitch, and
always make the number of teeth on the two gears so
that they are numbers that are prime to each other. If
you do this, then every tooth on one gear will eventually
come into every space, in turn, on the other gear, so
that wear will be evenly distributed. The gears wear
in and run more quietly after having been in use for a
time, than they do when new. If the gears have a num-
ber of teeth, such that they are divisible by the same
factor, for instance, 48 teeth on one and 32 teeth on
the other, both being divisible by 16, this distribution of
wear' is not accomplished ; the gears wear unevenly, and
become noisy. The gear material, the- shafts and in fact
every part of this transmission must be of the very highest
quality. Special alloy steel should be used for the gear
blanks, and after being accurately cut, they should be
hardened. In designing the case . for the gears, be sure
to leave ample clearance all around the gears, in order

to prevent your transmission from actiiig as a gear
pump.

A universal joint is shown between the motor and the
gear. This should be of ample size and is quite safe
in this position, as it takes no thrust and is .run at a
comparatively small angle. Of course it could be elimi-
nated, provided bevel gears at the proper angle were
used in the transmission instead of spur gears, but bevel
gears are mucTi more expensive, are much more difficult
to fit properly, and are apt to run noisily. Then, in ad-
dition, the universal joint provides for a certain amount
of flexibility between the motor and transmission, which
is very useful in hydroplane construction.

The strut and rudder present no unusual features, ex-
cept that the rudder is hung at the bottom of the strut
and at the top of the transom. The sizes are indicated
it the joints. The strut is bolted through the back of
the transom, one bolt at the back of the large palm going
through the knee between the transom ■and keel. The
bottom of the palm is wide, and has two bolts, the centers
of which are about six inches apart, and go through the
transom into an oak chock about 10 iiiches long and 2
in.ches deep by 2^4 inches in a fore and aft direction.
These bolts should be about ^ of an. inch in diameter,
and should be of bronze. The nuts should be at the out-
side, so that the strut may be removed, without crawling

in under the deck. Sketches sho;y how the propeller
wheel may be applied to the shaft, either using a straight
bore through the propeller, with a small shoulder at the
fore end of the hub, and securing the wheel by a key
and taper pin, or by using a tapered bore and nuts at the
fore and aft ends of the propeller hub. The straight
shaft and taper pin is much simpler, but it is much
more difficult to remove a propeller than when the tapered
bore and nuts are used. The water intake should be
carried near the garboard", a little forward of the step,
going down through the brass plane. An alternative
arrangement would be to have the water intake project
just a little below the plane coming down throtigh the
hull, just aft of the step.

For those who desire to work out their own construc-
tion, using perhaps a lighter, simpler scheme, the line
drawing and offset table are given. If a big, heavy motor
is to be used, the arrangement will work out better if the
motor is placed aft and the crew forward of the motor,
an arrangement which possesses many advantages; but
in working out such an arrangement, it is necessary to
know the definite motor weight, and should -any of the
readers desire to use this arrangement, I shall be glad
to advise them where the center of the motor weight
should be placed if they will furnish the necessary data
regarding the motor sizes and actual motor weight.

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TRANSMISSION OEAB AMB CASINO FOS 6U-HP.H0T0B AT 1500 S.P.H.

How To Build "Sunfish

By C. G. Davis

WE have told how to build short, big-bodied motor-
boats where all styJe has been eliminated in order
to give the biggest, roomiest boats for their size
with no regard particularly for any set style, but now
in SunAsh we are going to give instructions for building
a good-looking day craiser. By day cruiser we mean a
boat that has deck room enough to enable one to move
about, a big cockpit, a cabin top at a convenient height
to sit upon and enjoy the breeze, and yet with cabin space
enough for two or even three to sleep if they want to go
cruising. But she is not like a raised deck cruiser — a
house inside

With such a boat as Sunfish one can run up to a float
ahd she is not so high-sided that you will need a side
ladder to get ashore; you can easily jump or step from
Sunfish onto an ordinary float. Such a boat does not
chase all over the creek at her moorings, but will ride
head-on at anchor, and though some may call her a bit
old-fashioned, if she suits the purpose better than a raised
decked boat why not have her so. Both bow and stern
lines can be handled easily en such a boat.

Her model is just a clean, easy lined hull — nothmg ex-
traordinary, no startling features to attract attention, but
a good sensible hull, plain and useful, yet of rather grace-
ful proportions. On a length of 32 feet overall she is
29 feet 10 inches long on the waterline, 8 feet beam,
dnd draws 2 feet i inch of water. She has about 2 feet
freeboard at the lowest point, about the middle of her
cockpit; 2 feet 7 inches at the center of her stern, and
with the spray boards on her forward deck is 4 feet 3
inches above the water at the stem. She will float a total
weight of 5,400 pounds at the waterline as drawn, her
center of buoyancy there being just 6 inches aft of mold
No. 5, or i6 feet 6 inches from the edge of the stem. She
will swing a 20-inch propeller, and with a 10 to 15-hp.
motor she will make a good 8 or 9 miles an hour. She
will prove an easy boat to steer on a straight course, and
yet will be prompt to answer her helm in turning.

Nobody builds a boat nowadays as they used to. Lum-
ber can now be ordered at the lumber yard or saw mill
in the sizes desired, and you don't have to hew and chop
them out by hand, so the tools needed are mostly just a
carpenter's outfft. I dofi't mean by that just a hammer
and a saw, but such a kit as every carpenter is supposed
to have. Such tools as the oldtime broad "axe and whip
saw are not required.

You can order a stick for the keel and get it already
dressed — as they term planed lumber — to the size desired,
but let me warn you right now, if you do order it dressed
be sure to mark it down in big letters that you want the
keel to be 3 inches by 4 inches after it is dressed. Other-
wise you will get a stick that was 3 by 4 in the rough, and
it will be 2% by 3^ when you get it. The stick for this

boat's keel must be 28 feet long and good for every inch,
not a 28-foot pjece with a foot of the end bad.

For the stem you want either an oak or a hackmatack
knee, square or a trifle out square in its crook, 3 inches
thick, without any skewgee or twist to it, with one arm
5 feet long, the other 3 feet, and thick enough in the
throat to allow your stem being cut from it. It is safer
to wait until you have drawn out the shape of your stem
and made a J^-inch wooden pattern of it. By trying this
pattern on the knee as you are selecting it, you can see
if it is large enough or not.

There is one thmg particularly needed m building any
boat and that is a clear head. Stop and think out your
work and don't believe the time spent in planning and
laying out the work carefully is lost. It's all simple
enough if you don't try to go too fast and get all con-
fused. In laying out the stem, as an example, the outline
of it is simple enough, but to tell how to bevel it ofif looks
puzzling to the novice at first. Look at the plan showing
the waterline's shape. As each waterline ends forward
at the stem it comes in at a different angle. If you have
laid the boat's lines down full size on the floor vou can,
with a bevel square, set that instrument or tool to that
bevel and cut the stem until it fits. Each waterline from
the deck down gets sharper and sharper. By spacing off
these waterlines on your wood you can cut at each until
you have it beveled to just what the lines call for. Don't
bring the edge of the stem to a feather edge, but have it
about ^ of an inch wide to take a metal stem band.

The rabbet for the ends of the planking can be cut the
same way by the use of the bevel or by taking a little
piece of yi-'mch pine board about a foot long and 3 inches
wide and cutting a notch so half of one edge is ^ inch
wider than the other half. This J^-inch projection rep-
resents the thickness of the planking. Chisel out the rab-
bet until this template fits on the face of the stern and
the notched part fits snug in the rabbet. Another way is
to wait until the molds are all set up and then bend a
batten around them and cut the rabbet so the end of -this
batten fits true in the rabbet. The only objection to this
is that it is more difficult to work in that position, standing
upright, than it is wh«-e you can lay the stem flat on a
floor or over a pair on wooden horses and sit on it and
chisel cut the rabbet.

The after deadwood can be made either in one piece or
built up of smaller ones. _ If cut from one piece, which is
more desirable, it takes a piece of 4-inch wood 18 inches
wide and 6 feet 8 inches long. If built up of several pieces
the upper part can be made from a 4 foot piece of 4-inch
by 6-inch oak, and the shaft log from a 2-foot piece of
4-inch by 6-inch oak, and the deadwood below it from a
4-foot piece of 4-inch by 6-inch oak. The three must be
jointed to a perfect seam where they meet and bolted to-

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gether with rods of j4-inch diameter galvanized iron or

copper. You can buy this rod iron in 12 to 14-foot lengths
and also the clinch rings that go over the ends where you
rivet them up, hut be sure to get wrought-iron clinch
rings and not the brittle cast-iron ones.

In some localities it may be difficult to obtain a knee
large enough to cut th6 stem from it. If so, it can be
built up in two pieces justas the after deadwood, using a
straight piece of oak 5 feet long, a foot wide and 3 inches
thick for the stem proper and back of it a small knee
about 2 feet long oil its arms, as showii in the acCbnipany-
ing sketches.

' It is to be supposed that a man who undertakes to build
Sunfish has had some experience in the use of wood-work-
ing tools, and that he will know enough to be able to
bore a bolt hole without choking his auger and in joint-
ing up the deadwoods will square up the edges always
from the face side so that when the various pieces come to
be bolted together they will set true and level one on top
of the other and not be canted or staggered out of the
vertical. Such A, B, C principles a man is presumed to
know when he tackles the building of this boat. The
short sternpost is fitted dovetail to the after end of the
shaft log so that the lag screws that are to hold the stern
bearing will have crossgrained wood to hold to instead
of end grain.

The bore of the shaft hole is so short that there should
be no difficulty experienced in getting it through a solid
log and so do away with the seam along the line of the
shaft that would be there if the log were made up of two

pieces with the shaft hole gouged half out of each. That
is the way they are often built where there is a long
deadwood to go through- and in attempting to bore which
the auger will often run off to one side or the other. Here
the hole is only 22 inches long in the wood, a very .easy
job to bore.

As you work out each piece, scratch center marks and
be sure that you set these marks all, true when, after
painting the two faces that come together, you rivet the
stem and deadwood to the keel. Countersink , the bolt-
heads on the underside of the keel far enough to get a
wooden plug dipped in white lead over them and so leave
a flush, smooth job on the outside.

With the keel, stem and deadwood all together we have
the backbone of the boat ready to set up and as the fair-
ness of the boat depends on her being held rigidly to the
desired shape while in the course of construction, be care-
ful to get the shores, or short posts of wood that are
to hold her keel, true to the measurements given above
the floor — and don't trust to the floor's being true ;. stretch
a chalk line very tight and measure up again to see that
all is right before you set the keel up on them.

Set all the shores to a chalk line snapped down -on the
board floor if you are building her in a shed; if out in
the weather, first where each shore is to come shovel
away the loose top soil and sink a "deadman" just as a
railroad tie is begged in the ground, tamp it down solid
and then set your shores up on these. It is a great handi-
cap to have to build out of doors. In a shed or shop you
can run the braces to hold the head of the' stem plumb

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up out of the way to the rafters overhead, which you can't
do on the ground. It prevents a lot of stumbling and
dodging around the shores. Give the keel >a coat of l«ad
colored paint to preserve it where it is securely braced up
plumb and true.

Then get out your molds and as these are only temporary
a cheap grade of pine about an inch, or better yet, an
inch and a quarter thick can be used. To shape all
these by hand with a drawknife and saw is a tedious
operation ; if tliere is any place where you can get access
to a band sa\y for an hour or so you could easily saw
out the various pieces and put them together at home.
Where you have to join two pieces together butt one against
the other and then nail or screw with iron screws a cleat
across the two to hojd them. Keep all cleats and braces
on the same side. Let the top end of each mold extend
up four to six inches above the true sheer line so that you
can run a batten up above this line and can leave it
there until after you have the topstrake on to keep her
deck edge fair and true. It is not necessary to bevel the
molds ; you do that- by setting each of the molds forward
of the center, 4, 3, 2 and i, so the smooth side of the
mold faces aft and is just flush with the mold marks on
the keel,- and the after ones 6, 7 and 8,. the reverse way;
by this the smooth edge represents the true shape re-
quired and when you put the battens on chisel away and
bevel the mold's edge until it fits flat against the mold.

Be very careful to set each mold exactly to its mark and
to set it and brace it perfectly plumb. If the under side
of the cross-spall — the wooden brace across the top of
the mold — be planed up true before it is fastened to the
mold it will be found of great assistance in setting the
mold level. You can hold a spirit level up under this
edge and tap the mold to one side or another until the
bubble sights true in the center of the level, and the
plumb bob, hanging from the center marks on the cross-
spall, is plumb over the center scratch line along the
top of the keel.

Keep all the braces you can up overhead so that they
will not interfere with your working around the boat, and
cross them X shaped, as they go up to the rafters; by
this arrangement you can get a more rigid brace than if
they simply go straight up from the head of the mold.
The whole business could swing like a parallel ruler that
way, but the X brace is firm.

Before you can run the ribbands around you need the
transom, the shape of the face of which is given along
with the mold shapes. Do not cut it out to this shape
however, as, due to the bevels, it' needs to be an inch -and
a quarter wider on the bottom edge but no larger across
the top where it bevels under from the line, and around
the edge it may even take more. With sufficient wood
left outside the line you can, after bending the curvature
in the face of the transom, clamp-screw it to the small
knee and by bending battens around the molds cut and
fit it accurately.-' All these bevels could, be laid out on
the floor in the full-sized drawing, but it goes into aMot
of projection and drawing, too difficult to attempt to ex-
plain here. Motorboat Handbooks, volumes i and 2, will
Tielpi the amateur over a number of difficulties, as there
pre spftial articles in these books on laying down a set
of lines, how to project a transom, an explanation of the
meaning- of a Table of Offsets, an article on how to cut
the rabbet Une, etc.

The transom is shpwn drawn to the outside of the
planking. If you are going: to let the plank fit flat against
the edge of it you will have to take off the thickness of
the plank from the shape shown, but as that does not
look very neat on a job of this kind, due to the curve
in the face of the transom, it would be better to bevel the
front edge of the transom so that the plank ends make a
seam right around the corner and are fastened to oak
backing pieces screwed fast to the inside of the transom
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This particular job is one of the hardest in thfe whole
construction of Sunfish. Anyone who can figure out this
transom and make a neat job need have no fear of any
Other part of the worlt. Apply the bevels as you take
them, is the keynote.

The curve to the transom should be bent in it first.
Steam the boards well in a steam box and then clamp
them over a mold built for that purpose with about an
inch more curve than you want; it will always straighten
back a little, so put more curve in than you need.

Another way to build this transom is to bend about a
Yn or %-inch transom and level the edges so that the
plank ends go right past, flat-footed on its edges, then trim
off these projecting plank ends to receive a J/2-inch oak
or mahogany facing-piece and bend and fit in this tran-
som, fastening it with screws, plugged, to the inner rough
transom. Be careful to set the transom up perfectly level
when you bolt or rivet it to the knee that holds it to the
deadwood.

When this is shored securely, and it is usually held by
two stout timbers spread out like a pair of legs to the
floor to hold it up and forward at the same time, you are
ready to bend around the ribbands.

First run the sheer ribband — about a 2-inch square strip
of clear spruce — in one length if you can get it ; if not,
join two pieces together by nailing a piece outside and
lapping over the two ends where they. butt. Don't at-
fempt to scarph and rivet the two pieces of a batten to-
gether Sometimes another batten is bent outside of the
first at the deck edge, as that is a very important part of
the boat to keep absolutely fair and true. At intervals
of about 6 inches run other ribbands fore and aft from
bow to stern. They will, of csurse, be close together at

the ends and once in a while the ends can be left out by
using a shorter batten amidships.

Where there is a short curve in the frames, put the
battens closely together, and where they are flatter spread
the battens. Use square-headed coach or lag screws, turn-
ing them in with a monkey wrench after first drilling a
hole so they will not split the wood and put a flat-iron
washer under the head of each one so that you can pull
the ribbands up wood to wood without having the bolt-
head bury itself in the ribband.

She will begin to look very much like a boat when you
get her this far along, and by standing off a way you
can see just what her shape is going to look like. If, in
putting on the ribbands, the molds do not seem to be fair,
don't go and cut one mold to let the ribband in so it will
touch the next, until you have carefully looked along the
batten and tried your measurements. It may be all that
is needed is to plane down the ribband a little, reduce it
in size, or taper one end, and it may then bend in and
still show a fair, easy curve.

No designer would think of trying to bend all the curves
that make up a set of lines for a boat with one kind of a
batten. They have many differently proportioned battens,
some like your ribbands, all one size throughout their
length; some larger in the middle than they are at each
end; some large at one end and gradually diminishing
all the way to the other end. So graduate your battens,
if they are too stubborn, and don't blame the designer.

In the next number we shall start in and frame up the
hull and proceed to plank her.

How To Build "Sunfish"

By C. G. Davis
Part II

WE knocked off work last issue with the molds and
ribbands all in place ready for framing up Sunfish.
Before you proceed to frame her, see that all the
seams that cross the rabbet hue are fitted with what are
called "stop-waters." With a half inch bitt bore so that
it cuts half*out of each side of the seam and drive in a
white pme dowel so that any water attempting to flow up
this seam and cause a leak will swell up this pine dowel
and prevent the water from going through

You need steam and a steam box to bend the frames, of
which there are forty pairs, each frame being about 7 feet
long and 1J/2 by Ij4 mches. though there is an advantage
in having them square, say V/z inches, in that as you grab
the hot frame from the sleam box you can bend it on either
of the four faces, whichever shows the most likely way to
stand the strain. I have specified them deeper than they
are wide for this reason The grain of the frame should
be bent so that the plank fastenings go through the layers
of wood and not through between the layers of the grain
wedging apart, as it were, the layers of wood. If they are
sawed out so that ih^ grain would be across when cut on
the narrow face you could never make a mistake in get-
ting the grain right whichever one of the two narrow faces
you bent against the ribbands

Many people like to bend the frames "on the flat'' be-
cause they are easier to bend that way but for the good of
the boat they should be bent on edge, as that is the way
they have to resist the strains

An odd pair of gloves will be found very useful in^ hand-
ling the hot frames You need a number of 6 or 8-inch
screw clamps and some one to hand you the frames from
the steam-box Put the heel or lower end of the frame
on the keel, your knee in the middle of the frame, and
bend it just as if you were bending a bow to string it —
bend it gently but steadily into place, and if you have a
helper, which would be advisable, let him start to clamp
the frame to the lower ribbands as you bend it down
against them and follow on up to the turn of the bilge.
If the frames are not steamed enough they will break, and
if they are of poor quality they'll break anyway Rock elm
makes a line frame as it bends with very little breakage
and is strong besides.

Space off along on the keel and ribbands where the
frames are to go and mark with chalk so when you are
working fast with a hot framfe you can see just where each
should go to have them evenly spaced. Hold the heads of
the frames well in to give the round, tumble-home curve at
the deck. They are liable to straighten back, anyway, as
they cool off

When they have cooled you can nail them to the rib-
bands and remove the screw clamp to use elsewhere. Put
the nails in slanting through the edge of the ribband into

the face of the frame. Don't nail through the side of the
frame from the inside of the boat into the ribband, for
you will scar the sides of the frames.

By bending frames in hot this way you twist them with
a monkey wrench so they lay flat ready to receive the
planking without beveling them.

The heels of the frames should be cut so that they butt
flat together at the center of the keel and have a slice taken
off the under corner so that instead of the square corner
of the frame touching the top of the keel they will fit flat
on top of it out to the edge where the rabbet is beveled
off to receive the edge of the garboard.

Drill a hole down through the frame and drive a 2-inch
galvanized boat nail through into the keel at the heel ot
each frame. Then take some lyS^-mzh oak boards 4 inches
wide. Lay them on edge over the top of the keel and mark
out the shape by running a pencil along the outside of the
frames, marking this angle on the board. Then saw out
this shape, or, clamping the board in a vise, rip it off with
a draw knife and true it up with a plane. Fit the floors for-
ward of amidships forward of the frames, and those aft
aft of the frames. You can then bevel this floor off so
that it gives an additional surface to which to nail the
planking.

Rivet each floor to its frame with three round wire cop-
per nails riveted over burrs on each side. Keep the
upper edges of all these floors in a true line so that the
keelson will not require much cutting and fitting when
you run it fore and aft over them.

Away up in the ends where the frames make a sharp 'V,
use wider boards to cut the floors out of and shape them
down on the top or take an oak knee, slabbed up into
i^-inch thickness, and get floors with a natural crook to
them.

The keelson, a 3-inch square yellow pine stick. 24 feet
long, is theji bent down on top of these cross floors and
held securely in place exactly over the keel until you bore
holes with a long 3^-inch auger bitt through keelson, floor
and about 3 inches into the keel. Measure the exact lengths
with a sliver of wood and cut corresponding lengths of
^-inch galvanized iron rod for drift bolts. Tap a slight
head on one end by clamping it in a vise and using a ball
pene hammer — a machinist's riveting hammer — to spread
the metal. Then put a galvanized riveting ring over the
end of it and drive the bolt home. One of these at each
floor will hold her backbone solid as a rock, and if the keel-
son ends lap onto the deadwoods forward and aft and are
bolted fast there the whole forms a very rigid truss.

The molds have to be removed to get in this keelson and
the other long fore-and-aft stringers, but as you knock
them out after unscrewing the fastenings into the battens
put up temoorary braces to the ceiling to replace those that

§\

held the molds, and nail cross braces to hold the frame
apart to its proper width at each mold space.

Measure carefully just where the top edge of the 6 x iJ/$-
inch yellow pine clamp is to come, which is the thickness
of the deck %-inch and the depth of the frame i>4-inch
below the deck edge ; 2% inches in all. This clamp is the
binder that holds the top ends of all the frames true into
line. Although it is 6 inches deep in the middle, it should
be tapered to about 4 inches in depth at the ends, and if
you have a power planer handy, its thickness might be
reduced to i]4 or lyi inch at the ends to help it bend, for
it makes a pretty stubborn piece to handle. Steam it well
before you try to bend it in place and you can then edge
set it up or down, as you will find you have to, due to the
tumble-home of the topsides, which point the ends down.
It takes two pieces 32 feet long to get out these clamps, or
one piece of 4 x 6-inch stuff ripped in two.

There are two brlge clamps oh each side of 3 x 6-inch
yellow pine, and though they may be a foot or so shorter,
it would pay to order them all the same length, 32 feet, as
the saw-mill would probably have to rip them all out of one
big piece of yellow pine to get the length.

Use ^-inch galvanized carriage bolts to pull the clamp
and bilge stringers snug to the frames at every other frame
and then, when you bend the shelf in against the clamp,
put a through bolt at every other frame clean through the
whole lot, frame, clamp and shelf. This will give a stiff,
rigid^ deck edge that will resist any bangs she may get
alongside a dock.

Cut the forward ends of these clamps and stringers so
that they butt flat up against the stern and transom.

Frame .the deck before you start in to plank her up and
it will be easier to work. The deck beams. are all cut round-
ing with a "crown" or curve of 5 inches in 7 feet. Saw
the deck beams out. Don't bend them. Bent ones have a
way of flattening down again and there are not very many
of them. Cut a wide thin board so that it forms a "she"'
pattern of this curve, and by trying this pattern at inter-
vals along her deck you can make sure of getting all the
short beams along the cabin space set true to the,curve.

The deck beams are ^ x i>4-inch with an esAra heavy
ono at the forward end of the cabin and at the after end
of ti.c cockpit where the deck ends. These beams should
be about ij^ by 2 or 2j4 inches. Nail each of these deck
beams fast to the clamp with a long, galvanized iron wire
nail and under the inboard ends of them run a piece of
spruce 3 inches deep by 2 inches thick fore and aft and
nail them fast to it.

Go carefully over the frames with a batten before you
start to plank and see that all the frames are true. Shave
off a little here and there wherever a frame presents a hard
edge, and when you are sure the frame is all true, start
and plank her up.

It will take about 500 square feet of J^-inch cedar boards
to do this. Buy "dressed" — as planed-up lumber is called —
and insist on good, clear lumber. You can't expect to get
cedar without knots, but shun all sap, which is the bluish
cast found near the edges inside the bark. Knots are solid
but the sap turns to a soft punk that is apt t^ produce
leaks. All small knots that show a black ring around them
should be reamed out after the boat is planked and wooden
plugs dipped in shellac driven in and sawed off flush.

There is no royal road to planking up a boat. I have
had many people ask me if they can't make one pattern,
and get a mill to saw them all out for them, th'at will plank
up the whole boat. You cannot do this. Every plank re-
quires a different shape, though the one pattern will, of
course, do for both sides.

Take a "spiling," as boat builders call it, for the top
strake. For this you want some very thin planks — about
six in all — 14 to 16 feet long, say 6 to 8 inches wide, and
about ^-inch thick. Tack this spiling board lightly to the
frame as nearly as it will.,go without being forced side-

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ways and into tke place where the topstrake is to fit. If it
touches the sheer line at about mold number three it will
be several inches too low at the ends. This board will give
you the curve as far as amidships, aft tack another one the
same way, and where the two lap amidships tack thein to-
gether. Then, get a pair of carpenter's dividers. Set them
to span the greatest space between the sheer line and this
spiling board — screw the dividers so as to hold the'ir legs
apart — and from the sheer line at about every other frame
prick off on this spiling board this distance; then by care-
fullv removing these boards and laying them out flat on
the plank, you are going to cut the topstrake out, if you
can prick this distance back onto it and get the curve to
cut the top edge so that when bent around the-frames it
will fit true along the sheer line. The lower edge of this
plank is then marked out by bending a long thin batten so

Have the plank squeezed up good and hard to the
frames with screw clamps, putting a chip under the foot of
it so that it will not bruise the surface of the plank and
rivet the plank on. Where the clamps will not permit riv-
eting use flat-head brass screws "fj4 or 2 inch, No. 10.
Scrape a little coarse brown washing soap onto the threads
and the screws will turn in easier. Or if you can't affotd
screws use galvanized iron boat nails.

Use your spiling board again to find the shape of the top
edge of the next two boards and in this way put on about
three strakes of top planking.

As the top plank is a sort of binder, many prefer to make
that board of quartered oak or of yellow pine. Yellow pine
is good and you easily can get that kind of wood in lengths-
long enough to make it all in one piece.

Then spile. in the same manner for the shape., of >the gar-

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that it makes a fair curve, leaving the plank about 4 inches
wide amidships and tapered to about 2^ inches forward
and 2 inches aft.

In putting this top strake on, have two braces. In one
have a bitt to bore for the wooden plug, about a ^-inch
auger bitt if your s^^-inch copper wire nail heads will go
into that sized hole without tearing the wood; if not use
a 7/16 inch, or *ven a J^-inch bitt. 'lii. the other brace
have a gimlet bitt — a breast drill with a small bitt works
faster and easier and is more generally used by boat build-
ers — some shops having an electric drill that goes through
the wood as if it were cheese, and is a great time-saver.
Follow through with this smaller bitt, boring a hole into
which the copper nail squeezes tightly

board where it fits along the keel. Cut your thin spiling
boards so that they fit roiighly to the shape at the ends and
get out the garboards. They, too, should be of oak or yel-
low pine, but insteaid of being wider in the middle than at
the ends, they are just the reverse. The idea is to fill up
the surface with the top strakes and the garboards so that
the remaining space to plank up will be more like a barrel
and take boards -more of an even shape and size. If you
cannot do this with the garbQard alone, put one or two
more strakes above it, the first and second broad strakes
as they are called, making them, about 6 incites wide and
tapered so that the rest of the space can be divided equally
both at middle and ends.

To keep the intermediate 'planks of uniform size and to

give-fair planking lines, get out the rest of the planks by
using a "planking scale." This is nothing but a thin slat
of wood, thin enough to bend easily, around the frames so
scaled off that you can measure how wide each plank must
be at any frame to fill up the space between the top-strakes
and broad strake already on. Say it is 48 inches at the

nearest frame to amidships and we want the plank 4 inches
wide. It will therefore take twelve such planks to fill that
space. Bend the batten with one end against the edge of
the broad strake around the frame and mark where the
edge of the last upper strake comes. Mark that "4."

Then do the same at Mold No. i. There twelve planks
would make each one only 3 inches wide. Bend the batten
here and mark it "3." Divide the distance between 3 and
4 on the batten or plank scale into eight equal parts to rep-
resent eighths of an inch. By bending this planking scale
at any frame this will show you how wide the plank should
be at that frame.

You cannot expect to have the planks all in one length
from end to end but will find that you have to make them
of two pieces. Make the joint, or "butt" as it is technically
termed, midway between the frames and rivet the ends to
an oak butt block about an inch thick and wider than the
plank so that its edges hook behind the plank above and
■ below it. The last plank, called the "shutter," must be
spiled for on both edges and must be fitted very carefully.

Plugs can be purchased to fill the holes over the nail-
heads- after you have riveted up the copper nails that hold
the planks on. Dip each • plug into either glue or thick
white lead paint and tap them lightly into the holes, snip-
ping them off flush with the plank with a big chisel, only
learn to snip them so that the grain of the plug doesn't go
in and make a hole.

With a plane jack down the seams a little and then with
a roll of spun wicking, a calking iron and a mallet, calk
each seam. Drive the cotton in so that it is at least an
eighth of an inch back from the edge and smear it with a
hiixture of thin white lead applied with a seam-brush— a
sirfgle row oi bristles set in a wooden handle.

The planksheers can be bent after steaming well around
stout cleats nailed to the floor and fitted when cold, or they
can be sawed out in sections and scarphed together.

To make the mold to bend it, simply drop a plumb line
down from the deck edge at intervals and nail the cleats to
these spots. This way saves a lot of unnecessary measure-
ments. Before the planksheer is fastened down toe-nail in
a row of blocks between the beams half under the plank-
sheer and half projecting to land the ends of the deck on.

Plug fasten planksheer, using galvanized iron wire nails.
The deck is laid in strips of white pine 3 inches wide
and J^-inch thick. Do not try to make it absolutely tight,
at the joints, but run a thin shaving off the upper half of
one edge to leave an open seam on top while the bottom is
jammed tightly together. Then calk these seams and
"pay" them with white lead paint, the same as the planking
was treated.

Where the tiller rope sheaves are to be, fit an oak block
under the deck between the beams and the same forward
where the hatch and the mooring post come.

If you can get your motor, now is the time to build the
bed for it and line it up through the shaft hole, fitting on
the stern bearing outside and the inside stuffing box. Cut
saddles to hold the gasolene tanks securely in the bottom
of the boat. Pipe your exhaust out through the stern and
then lay the cabin and cockpit floor beams and floors.

The cabin floor boards can be 6 inches or so in width, but
lay the cockpit floor in 4-inch strips just as the deck 'was
put down.

■ Square up the inner edge of the deck around both cabin
and cockpit, and around on the cockpit floor directly under
this edge fit a rabbeted white pine sill piece to set the lower
ends of the tongue and groove chamfered staving into.
Let the upper ends stick up high enough above the deck
to form the shape of coaming shown in the plans.

The cabin sides, ij^ inches thick, are landed flat on the
deck after smoothing off and putting them where if is to
set. If you cannot get one wide board, build it up in three
strips with upright ribs inside to hold them rigid. Drift
bolt the cabin through from underneath.

The cabin beams are J^xiJ^-inch with a crown of 6
inches in 6 feet notched into the cabin sides and nailed.
Over them is laid a ^-inch wooden deck, and after this is
given a coat of paint, a thin piece of canvas is stretched
tightly over it and tacked over the edges with copper or
galvanized tacks, which are all hidden under an oak half-
round molding.

The after bulkhead is staved up and down in the same
stock as the cockpit staving. The outer thickness of the
cockpit coaming is then fitted up against the after end of
the cabin sides, its after end shaped down in a curve to the
deck, and an oak cap rail fitted .over the two.

After the deck. is all planed, sandpapered and varnished,
one coat, fit the low thumb rail, around the' edge of it, plug
fastening it with galvanized boat nails to the planksheer,
and put on the oak half round moldings at the deck edge.
Sandpaper the hull outside, putty all the seams and holes,
and give it a prime coat of paint. When this dries scratch
in the waterlijie or paint line if you want her to show a'
boot-top, and give another coat of white paint above water
and copper paint below.

The stem band 'you can make out of a strip of narrow
half-round brass, the skeg, rudder and quadrant can be
bought, and a rudder port made by screwing a stout piece
of brass pipe, just large enough to take the ij^-inch diam-
eter bronze rudder stock into the hole through the over-
hang and sawing it off flush with the deck, or about ^-inch
above it.

The flagpole sockets, windows in the house and stern
seat are fittings that anyone who has gone thus far will
need no instructions for. There is the steering wheel and
sheaves, hatch in the cabin top and cabin doors to finish,
and the interior we leave for every man to fit up as his
fancy dictates. By extending the transoms forward 3 feet
under the deck, there is transom accommodations for two
people to sleep to port and one on the starboard side wel'
clear of the-companionway.

Editor's Note. — Detailed Instructions for Planking, Calking, Paint-
ing, Laying Canvas on the Cabin Top, Building a Motor Bed, etc., will
be found in Motobhoat Handbook, Volumes I and II. Readers who
wish to build SunAsh will find the Handbook a practical aid in the
work. Those who do not own copies of the Handbooks, may obtain
them by sending a dollar and a half, which is the price for both vol-
umes, postpaid.

HOW ■' MOLLYHAWK " WILL APPEAR AFLOAT

How to Build "Mollyhawk"

Part I

By C. G. Davis

A MOLLYHAWK is not a bird of beauty, therefore
the name is appropriate in this case, but beauty is
not always the most desirable element in a boat, and
if our Molly hati'k shows the staying qualities, the sea-
worthiness and lasting qualities of that homely sea fowl
so familiar to deep water sailors as to be part of their
everyday life, she'll be as good a boat as any man who
loves the life on the water will care to own.

She is a boat that will go through stormy weather as
a motorboat should go, easily and dry, not floundering
about in the surface water This desirable quality has
been obtained by making her more of a boat, a deeper
boat and a heavier constructed boat, than the ordinary
28-foot craft.

She looks, in profile, somewhat like a small edition of
a steamship — her stern will stand the slopping of seas
without the jar felt ini flat-sterned boats, and her bow is
high enough to take care of any comber she may be put
to. Her deckhouses look a little peculiar, due to the
long, narrow skylight, which, while it looks odd in a
side view, does not show up at all badly in the real boat,
and its advantages are twofold. It gives full headroom
in a boat that would otherwise be all out of proportion,
if the cabin itself were carried up that high, and in Sum-
mertime makes a nice cool cabin by the ventilation pos-
sible with such a cabin construction. In the flat paper
plan you see the full height, but in the _ real boat the
perspective sets it back, and it appears considerably lower
Mollyhawk is 28 feet long, has 8 feet beam, and draws
2 feet 6 inches of water, with a good, heavy displacement,
9,920 pounds. This heavy displacement is intentional,
as a study of the lines will show. She is big below water,
and it will require some concrete ballast to bring her
down to her designed waterline. as the weight of her
hull engine and fittings will hardly equal 9,920 pounds;
more likely they will be about 7,000 pounds, leaving about
2,900 pounds of ballast.

If you have been out in a light displacement boat in
heavy weather, you know how they throw you about,
and, when I say heavy weather, I don't mean a Summer
thunder squall on an inland lake, where it's all spray
and no sea. but take the fleet of boats that go out down

New York's lower bay, or the style of boats that navigate
out of 'Frisco Harbor, and go out into the ocean fishing,
and the conditions such boats have to contend with are
what this boat is designed for. Another condition she is
adapted for is where a man wants a boat to take long
cruises and live for months aboard his boat. He can live
on such a boat as this in comfort, and be able to walk
when he gets ashore without having to get the kinks out
of his legs, or feeling the ground heave and pitch under
him.

Don't ■ start to build Mollyhawk unless you have first
tried your hand at some smaller craft. Not but' what you
might succeed — that is a matter of individual ability —
but what I mean is that Mollyhawk is not a primer, it's
one step higher, is a second-grade reader so to speak,
a little more difficult and much more of a boat.

I have laid out all the work, and the plans herewith
published show how the work is to be done, but it's
up to you to open your tool chest, go see the lumber
dealer, and prepare to use your muscles. You who want
to keep your waistband girth down can leave off your
dumb-bell exercises and your walks ; the contortions you
will go through in building a boat are the best kind of
exercises to keep a man healthy and strong.

Build her under cover, if you can, inside a barn or
shed. If this is not available, and I never was so lucky
myself, do as I did, set up some posts and from these run
rafters up against the side of your house, and roof over
and board in with novelty siding.

The first step in the real work of construction con-
sists in getting out the molds. These molds are wooden
patterns, as it were, that show the boat's shape at the
various stations marked in our plans, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
and 8. No 8 could be dispensed with, but, on account of
the boat being rounded up so quickly at the stern, I have
shown it. and it will pay you to go to the trouble to make
it, you being an amateur. These molds are thrown away
when the boat is completed, and for that reason are gen-
erally made of some very cheap wood about one inch
thick. Their shapes can be laid out from the meas-
urements given at six-inch intervals in our plans on
Plate 2. When these are all ready, lay them aside

and start on the oak keel and the backbone of the
boat. The various members which constitute the back-
bone are all shown and identified in Plate 3. Nearly all the
members here shown are to be of oak. Sometimes the
knees, such as the transom knee, stem knee, etc., are
made of hackmatack. Either wood will do, but by all
means make your keel, shaft log and fore foot of good,
sound, clear white oak. The keel is the first and largest
stick in the boat. It is, as shown in Plate ^, 22 feet lyi
inches long, 4 inches thick and 6 inches deep. Don't make
the mistake so often made by amateurs of ordermg a 4x6
of your lumber dealer, and then, when he asks if you
want it rough or dressed lumber, tell him- you want the

BODY PLAN of 'MOLLYHAWK'

flOUI^S are dmwri lo ifts/t^c of plank

wood dressed, for, if you do, you will probably get about a
3^-inch stick for your keel, and, while this at first
thought might not seem to make any difference, you will
find it, as well as the rabbet line, has ail been figured
out for a 4-inch stick of wood, and this would all be
changed with the thinner size. There is very litfle cut-
ting to be done on the keel in this particular kind of a
boat. The general run of boats that are built nowadays
use a flat plank for a keel and bend it up aft, so that
It comes right up to the transom, but this is no light run-
about. We want weight, strength and rigidity in this
boat, and for that reason have gone back to the regular
old ship style of construction The deadwood and shaft-
log shou'd next be cut to the various shapes shown in
the plans, and, by being made in two pieces, the shaft-
hole can be planed or gouged half cut of each, instead of
being bored with an auger, or, if you prefer, the dead-
wood can be in one piece and bored, but ninety-nine out
of a hundred amateurs would find great difficulty in get-
ting an auger large enough to bore a two-inch hole. The
stern timber has more shaping to it than any other piece
of wood in the boat, and, if the amateur could make a
wooden pattern of this and have it sawed out at the saw
mill where he ordered his lumber, it would save him con-
siderable cutting. If not, he will have to line it up and
saw and chop.

The forward end of the keel i^ built iu,p with a four-
inch fore foot, which takes a stick of timber 6 feet 3
inches long and 9 inches wide, a stem which is 6 feet
6 inches long, 4 inches thick and 9 inches wide. These
are all shaped and held together by the four-inch hack-
matack knee to which each is riveted. The bolting to-
gether of this deadwood is generally a sticker for the
atn.ateur, but if he will provide himself with two or three

half-inch galvanized iron rods — they generally come in
standard lengths of about 12 to 14 feet— about four pounds
of half-inch rivet rings, and a long ship auger, also half-
inch, he will find the problem to be greatly simplified.
Carefully set the various pieces of wood one on top of
the other, tacking them lightly with wire nails, then bore
the various holes where you want bolts; with a hack saw
cut the iron rods into the proper lengths for bolts to go
through these holes. Then clamp these bolts^ in a vise,
and with a riveting hammer head up, as it is called;
that is, burr over one end so it makes a head on the end
of the iron. Slip one of the rivet rings over this, and
drive It through the hole from underneath, where you
should previously have bored a hole in about one inch,
large enough to take the riveting ring, and, if you can-
not get an auger large enough, cut it out with a gouge.
This IS to countersink the rings so that they will show
flush with the wood or so a wooden plug can be put in
to fill the hole. A bit of tallow rubbed on the iron bolt
before you start to drive it will save a good many blows
of your top maul, as the light sledge hammers are called,
when you come to drive these bolts through the auger
holes. They should be just long enough to stick up about
a half inch above the inside edge of the wood. Then,
with somebody holding a heavy sledge hammer or other
heavy weight against the bolt on the under side, slip a
rivet ring over the bolt and proceed to head up the inner
end It is rather difficult to tell an amateur just when
he has headed the bolt up tight enough. An experienced
man could tell by the sound of the blow on the bolt. The
only wav I can explain to you to tell when it is suf-
ficiently drawn up is to tell you to keep tapping the bolt
and burring it over until the rivet ring begins to sink into
the wood. The deadwood bolts need not necessarily go
clear through They can simply be driven through the
keel and into this deadwood, a distance of about 6 inches,
forming what are called blind bolts. If all these bolts
were put in exactly parallel to each other, ycTli can read-
ily see that it would be an easy matter for the wood to
draw away again, but, on the other hand, if the bolts are
at different angles, staggered, as boat-builders call it,
the wood is firmly locked and cannot get away

Before you put the various pieces of wood together,
paint their surfaces with a good thick coat of white lead
paint, any color will do. Shipyards always have a great
many screw clamps of various lengths, and it would be
well for you to provide yourself with them, as you find
you need them for this job, as, for instance, in pulling
these deadwoods together you will find screw clamps a
very great help Of course, an ingenious mechanic can
overcome it by making a dog, that is, cut a notch in a
piece of oak a little larger than the span of the wood to
be bolted together, and wedging them together by insert-
ing a wooden wedge between the upper part of this dog
and the top of the deadwood. and driving the wedge in
solid, but dogs will have to be put on each side of the
deadwood to prevent tipping to one side This will
saueeze the wood together about as tight as it could be
drawn with a screw clamp, and you are then ready to
rivet.

This backbone is generally laid on its side while being
bolted together, and, while it is still in this position, it
is a good time 10 cut your rabbet. Either lay it out flat
on the floor, being careful not to strain any of the joints,
or, better yet. lay it over wooden horses, which always
come in handy around a boat shop, and which it will
pay you to take the time to make before you start. This
raises your work off the ground at a convenient height,
and keeps you from almost breaking your back by try-
ing to sit on the ground and hammer But if you're
going to cut your rabbet af this stage of the game you
will have to be very particular about getting just the
proper be\ek at which to apply a little sample of your

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flanking when you cut the notch formmg the rabbet, and
would hardly advise doing so unless you want to go to
the trouble of laying down all the boat's lines just as a
regular boat-builder does. If you do this, you know ex-
actly the;> bevel at which each waterline intersects the
stem forward and the deadwood aft, and this gives you
the bevel at which to apply your pieces of planking. But
following the manner in which we are building this boat
you had better leave this rabbet line until after the molds
are in shape, when you will be sure of making no mis-
take, as you can bend battens around these molds and
then cut your rabbet line so the end of the batten makes
a perfect fit.

It would be well to give the keel a coat of lead colored
paint, to prevent the wood drying and checking or crack-
ing, as the keel will probably be set up several weeks or
months before it is closed in with planking, and all this
time the wood is exposed to the action of the suri and
wind. Set the keel up so its lower edge is about two
feet off -the ground, or eighteen inches at least. If you
get it any closer to the ground than this, you will experi-
ence great difficulty in putting on the lower planking.
The angle at which the keel is to be set up is shown in
Plate No. 2. It is slightly higher at the forward end
than it is aft. If you are building this boat in a shed,
where you can shore the fore and aft ends of this dead-
wood to the rafters overhead, ypu will find it will be
much easier to work around your boat than if .the shores
have to be braced up from the floor or ground upon which
you are working. You will always be stumbling over
■ them, and'^when you come to set the molds up at the
various distances also shown on Plate No. 3, shore them
overhead for the same reason, if it is possible. If you
have to shore them to the ground, dig down far enough
so that you will be sure the ground you shore them to
will not shift, as the least shifting out of line of these
molds will throw everything unfair, and cause you a
great deal of annoyance after. Brace them in a fore
and aft direction as well as sideways, for you have to
put considerable strain on these molds when you bend
your ribbands, and later when you bend the frames over
the ribbands.

Another point to be remembered in setting up your
molds is to put them so the after face of the forward
molds and the forward face of the after molds come
just at the mold station marked on the keel. The rea-
son for this is the bevelling away from the amidships
towards each end. The shape you want ft the shape of
the face that is even with the mark on your keel. They
are the working faces, and. when you run the ribbands,
bevel of? the molds 50 the ribbands will fit fl'ush with this
edge. The transom will have to be made, as it would be
foolish to make a temporary mold of the shape of the
transom, and then to have to make a new one, the real

transom itself, later Get it out to the shape shown out
of ij4-inch oak which has previously been steamed and
bent so it has four inches round to its face. This tran-
som can hardly be gotten out of one piece of oak, as it
is over two feet wide. It would be more desirable if you
could do so, if you cannot, bend the pieces of oak over
the mold which gives them the four-inch bend, and then
dowel their edges together with wooden dowels; mark
the shape of the face as shown, but, when you cut it out,
do not cut within two inches of the lower edge. The
reason for this you will soon see when you bolt this
transom fast to the little hackmatack knee, which holds
it to the stern timber. If yw do cut it away you will
then see, owing to the bevel at which the ribbands go
around the No. 8 mold, you will have to cut away still
more on the transom to make the ribbands fit flat against
it. By having previously left this wood standing, you can
now do your cutting so the ribbands will finish fair with
the desired edge.

While you are putting up the molds, let the lumber
yard be getting out for you sixteen strips of yellow pine,
2x2, about 30 to 32 feet long, in one piece if possible.
If not, they will have to be spliCed out of shorter ■ stufif.
You will find that most of these you can bend around,
starting at the rabbet on the stem, following the sheerline
for the npper one' around the molds to the transom.
There may be a few, however, where the two-inch stringer
will be too stubborn to bend around the quick curve at
the stern; if so, plane them down, until they can be bent
around, but don't make them too easy; they want to be
just as stiff as they can possibly be put around, because
they have to hold the frames when you come to steam
bend them and make them take the proper bend, and,
if these battens are not very stiff, the frames, when you
come to bend them, will pull the battens out of line, and
make an unfair surface to your boat's side. It vyill re-
quire aboctt six of these battens on each side of your boat,
and, at the turn of the bilge from amidships aft, you may
even have to ptit in another ribband, so as to make the
frames take a true bend, and not straighten out from
ribband to ribband when you come to bend them. Fasten
these ribbands at each mold with a good stout lag screw,
say 4 inches by %, inch, turned in good and;strong with
a monkey wrench. You can form a very good idea of
the shape of your boat by this time, as her shape will be
very clearly outlined by all these fore and aft ribbands.
Most amateurs feel very much elated when they arrive at
this point, but all this is superstructure, and is all to be
torn away as the real boat progresses, which is the case
from this point oh, for you are now ready to begin' and
bend in the real timbers of the boat.

The frames are to be i^ inches square, spaced ten
inches apart, so, while you are waiting for the clear, sound
white oak to come from the mill, for it will pay you to

P!ate.3.

/l^ww ^/tie various pieces that, ulien allare Mted fofether, form the backbone of //>e boats frame 'onet the location for the tvnoas mou/t/e.

order all this from the lumber yard, cut up and dressed
to lyi inches in 8 to 12-foot lengths, take a thin batten
of pine, about a quarter of an inch thick and inch or inch
and a half wide, space off ten-inch intervals along your
keel, and from these bend the batten up around the in-
side of the ribbands, and mark with pencil this location.
When you come to bend in the hot timbers, you can bend
them right along these pencil marks. This will insure
the frames being evenly spaced, and not all standing
zigzag. Of course, you can straighten the timbers up
after they are cold, but along in the ends it will save
a whole lot of trouble, on account of the excessive bevels
there if you don't have to shift them. To soften your
timbers so as to make them pliable enough to bend in
around the ribbands, you will have to build a steam box.
This subject is one which has been fully explained before
in' Motor Boat, and along with many other subjects that
will enlighten one in building this boat may be obtained
by getting copies of Motorboat Handbook, Vols. I and II.
It takes generally about half an hour to properly soften the
frames. Cut the heel of the timber roughly, so that it
fits flat against the keel as you bend it in. Two can work
to far better advantage than one at this job. A ij^-inch
timber, even when saturated with steam, is a pretty stub-
born piece of wood to bend, anc^ a day's work at this will
tire any man. Let one man get inside the boat to work,
the other handing him the hot timbers from the steam
box, then, as he bears down with his feet to crimp the
frame down into its place against the battens, pulling the
head of the frame inboard at the same time, his friend on
fhe- ontside can follow along, starting at. the keel and
clamp the frames to each one of the ribbands in suc-

cession. These clamps should not be removed tor five or
ten minutes. At the end of that time, after nailing them
off with -about two-inch wire nails, driven diagonally
through the ribbands into the frames, these clamps may all
be removed and used farther along on the hull. Very
little difficulty will be experienced in bending the frames
from the bow clear back to about section No. 5. From
there back you have to be a little more careful on account
of the reverse bend in the heels of the frames, and the
bend at the bilge becoming more sudden. There is a
way of easing this part of the operation, and that is to
split the fran^e down as far as where the quick bend
comes. This allows the inner half to slide on the outer
half, and yet, when the plank fastenings are put through,
they rivet the two securely together again. Personally
I would not recommend this kind of constpuction.

After the frames are all in, sawed oak floors of two-
inch oak are fitted alongside the heels of each pair of
frames, riveted to them, and securely bolted to the keel
with about ij4-inch iron. The shapes of these are very
easily determined by laying 'a thin pine board across the
top of the keel -and against the frames where the floor
is to fit, and marking the shape of the outer side of these
frames with lead pencil on this board. With a few cuts
of a draw knife you can cut this thin pine pattern and
use that as a templet to mark out the shape of the desired
floor. If you could only build a boat as easily as you
can tell how to do it, we could build about one a day,
but when the amateur tackles this job of fitting in two-
inch oak floors, unless he has a band saw handy to help
him, he will do very well if he fits in from four to six of
these floors alone in a day.

How to Build "Mollyhawk"

Part II

By C. G. Davis

WHEN the heels of the frames are all secured by the
2-inch oak floors to the keel and deadwood, get
out the fore and aft clamps from 2 by 4 inch
yellow pine stock. There are eight of these in all, the
upper two beihg short ones. Be very particular in putting
■in the main deck clamp, as the deck line wi.l show unfair
if this is not done, and no one wants a boat with a wavy,
snake-like sheer. No matter how carefully a man may
design the boat or how accurately measurements may be
taken, it is always up to the man who builds the boat to see
that the lines run fair and true, and this can only be done
by sighting along the side of the boat standing at one end ;
while another man, with a hammer, taps the clamp up or
down to take the kinks out of it. It is all a question of ac-
curacy of a man's e3'e in being able to spot these uneven-
esses.

The two lower clamps are the same size as the upper
ones, if you want to you can reduce them in width and
thickness toward each end. This is generally done by the
careful professional builder, but nine out of ten amateurs,
not having machinery at hand, seldom go to the trouble
of planing down these two-by-fours.

Diagonals Numbers i and 2 in the body plan of Molly-
hawk show about the position for these two lower clamps.
If run in about this line they will practically lie flat pn the
face of the timber or will be so nearly so that they can
easily be, screwed down with screw-clamps, and will not
require previous shaping. All these clamps are to be
bolted to their frames with 4-inch by 5-16 inch carriage
bolts. The head of the bolt should be let in flush with the
face of the frame and a washer put under the nut on the
inside. This washer will permit your turning the nut up
good and hard, drawing frame and clamp tightly together.
Do not put all the bolts along in the center of the clamp
but stagger them so that one will be near one edge, the
next near the other and so on, alternating them. In the
end you may have to favor one side more than the other
to pull the twist out of the clamp.

Before these clamps can be put in it will be necessary
to remove the niolds, but be sure and tie the boat up from
side to side with some good stout stay laths before you do
so. Otherwise the hull may sprawl, as boatbuilders term
spreading.

At this stage of the game most amateurs are in a great
haste to start the planking of their boat. They want to see
it grow, but they will get ahead far faster if they will leave
the planking alone until they have the entire deck frame
complete. They will find it much easier to do this part
of the work. Everything is so much more accessible and
there is a better light to work by than will be the case
when the hull is all shut in.

As we have designed this boat there are no very long
deck beams, the longest being the three across the stern. All
the others are short on account of the midship skylight,
.but- it would be well to get out three or four long ones,
long enough to go across the entire boat, to hold the super-
structure in shape while you are fitting the shorter beams,
and then -saw them off later.

As all these deck beams are exposed when the boat is
completed, see that they are nicely smoothed up and, if you
want a still fancier job, champher the lower edges before
you put them in. Fit the deck beams in alongside of the
head of the frames and fasten their outer ends to the
clamp ON which they rest with 3'/^-inch heavy galvanized
iron nails, with the heads sunk in so that when you come to

plane and dress off their tops so the deck lies perfectly
true on them you will not be striking the plane on a nail-
head. All these main deck beams should be marked out
from a pine templet made with a crown or curve of 3^
inches in 8 feet. Do not, above all things, try to lay a flat
deck as many amateurs attempt to do. There is nothing
shipshape or "boaty" in a flat deck and there is a very
good reason why it should be crowned.. That reason is, to
make it shed water.

There are about four corners that should be reinforced
by fitting and bolting in oak or hackmatack hanging knees
about Ij4 to i^ inches thick. This means eight knees.
They should be located one each side where the forward
beam of the after deck comes, one each side of the
after end of the main cabin, one each side of the after
raised deck and one fastened at each end of the deck beam
that goes clear across alongside the forward end of the
cabin. Rivet these to the beams with at least two J^-inch
bolts to each arm of the knee. These may save a whole lot
of straining when your boat takes a side bump against
a dock and they are well worth the time it takes to put
them in. For'the same reason large knees are fitted in the
corners where the transom joins the side planking and a
breast hook is put up in the bow.

As you cannot lay any more beams until you have laid
the two little pieces of side deck and put up the cabin sides
which carry those beams, they can be left and the more
interesting work of planking up the hull taken up.

Planking up a boat may seem simple and to some it
turns out to be such a job, but if one has never considered
this subject carefully and examined other boats so that
he has a fair idea of the way in which it is done, he will
find himself working into all kinds of difficulties. Old sub-
scribers to Motor Boat will have some understanding of
this subject from the practical articles printed. Those
who have not read these articles will be able to secure
them all in compact form in the Motorboat Handbook.
Not only is the subject of planking explained therein,
but the bending of frames, deck construction and many
other valuable articles both on boat construction and the
u^e and the care of the boat after she is built.'

Briefly stated, the process of planking may be compared
to the construction of a barrel. As the barrel staves are
made wide in the middle and narrow at the ends, so is the
yacht planking w!der amidships. Just how wide each
plank shall be you have to determine by bending a thin
Ijatten around one of the midship frames and dividing it
up into such widths as your stock of planking will permit.
For instance, if most of your cedar planking which the
lumber yard has delivered to you will only allow you to
get out a plank five inches wide in the middle without
leaving bark on the edge, do not lay your boat for six
inch plankihg. This distance, measured on the batten jn
inches, divided by five,, will show you how many planks
your boat will require. How wide these planks will be
forward or aft at any other frame can be determined the
same way, by dividing the length along the frame to be
planked into the number of planks that are being put on
amidships, which would probably give you something like
2^- or 3 inches.

The top strake, or "sheer strake" as it is called, and two
or three more below it and then the garboard or plank
which goes next to the keel are generally fitted in first and
then the space between is divided up as previously de-
scribed. To find the shape of the garboard requires what

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is called "spiling." In other words, it r€quires the spoil-
ing of one plank which is generally a thin pine or cedar
board about ^ of an inch thick. This thin board is used
as a pattern cut roughly by eye so as -to fit along the keel,
and then, with a pair of compasses, set so as to span the
greatest interval between the edge of the rabbet and the
edge of this pattern, proceed to prick off a line of spots
along the pattern, keeping one point of the compasses at
the edge of the rabbet. I5y laying this pattern out flat on
the one inch cedar board from .which you are going to
cut your garboard, and pricking these distances back you
can readily see that you get a line of spots the same
shape as the rabbet against which the edge of this plank
must fit. This "spiling" process is repeated for almost
every plank. The only ones that will not require it are
the few on the flat of the side of the boat just under
the "sheer strake."

You will hard'y be able to get these planks all out of
one length. Not many boats nowadays are built that way,
but where you do have to use two, make the seam where
the two ends meet come midway between two frames and
then rivet their ends to an oak block fitted snugly between
the frames about half an inch wider on each side than
the planking, so that the plank above atid below will lap
half an inch over this butt block. Common sense alone
will tell any man not to make all these butts in his plank-
ing come in a line in one spot between the. same two
frames, but to shift the butts as far apart as possible, using
the long length of a plank forward in one case and aft in
the next, so that at least two planks come between butts
made in the same frame space.

There are few places in this boat where the round of the
side is so pronounced as to require hollowing and rounding
the inside and outside of a plank so as to make it fit against
the frame. Aft, on the quick round on the counter, and in
the few planks that end in the hollow of the after frames
this may be necessary. Never rivet a plank fast to the
frame until its inner edge makes a perfect joint on the
face of the frame. I know what you will be tempted to do.
I have seen it done time and again, but those who did it
always regretted doing so. That is to chisel off the face
of the frame into a series of flats so that a flat plank will
fit where it should be rounded. The result is the boat
shows a series of ridges or if enough is planed off to
make the plank show a smooth rounded surface the plank
will be reduced to only about ^ or ^2 inch in thickness,
and as this' is just where the fastening goes it is where
the plank should have its full strength.

To fasten the planking to the frames use 25^-inch cop-
per nails rivetted over copper burrs, and to make a good
job first bore a hole so the heads of the nails will sink in
or be counter siink about half an inch. These holes, after
the nails are rivetted up, are to be filled with cedar or white,
pine plugs dipped in white lead and tapped in over the
nail heads, so that when the planking is finally smoothed
off all will show a clean wooden surface and she will not
look like a spotted pig, as she will if the nail heads are
left flush. This is only done in very light rowboats or
racing boats where the thickness of planking will not
permit of countersinking; there the nail heads are
smoothed off with a file, but MoUyhawk is not a racing
shell.

Along the garboard seams, in the ends of the planks
and such places as under a clamp where it is impossible to
rivet up a copper nail use 2j4-inch galvanized iron boat
nails, but bore for them just the same. Do not try to
clout them in with a hammer for if you do you may spoil
a plank that has taken you considerable time to shape,
due to the nail buckling over in the hard oak and splitting
the plank.

When all the planking is on, calk each seam carefully
with boat cotton spun out and rolled to suit the size of the
seam and paint each seam with a thin white lead paint.

This will stick the cotton in and hold it while you proceed
with the rest of the work and makes the putty stick when
you come to putty and paint the outside.

Before laying the deck, while the hull is all open, is a
good time to put in your engine bed, line up and connect
your shaft and install the motor. Make a templet for your
gasolene tank and until that arrives fit in all the necessary
floor beams both for cockpit and cabin floors. All can be
fastened down with the exception of the forward cockpit
floor beams. These will have to be left until the tank is
in, so build a platform and sides to securely brace this
ts^nk in its proper place.

The floor beams for cockpit floor and cabin floor need
not be dressed stock; that is, they can be left unplaned as
they are entirely out of sight, the cabin floor, of course,
being laid absolately level ; but the forward and after cock-
pit floors which are exposed to the weather would, be
better off for a slight crown so the water will drain- to
either side where lead pipe scuppers are to be fitted down
and out through the outer planking so the rainwater will
run overboard.

The main cabin floor can be made of wide stock, that is,
boards 6 or 8 inches wide, nailed down wJth the exception
of a loose trap down the center. These will permit get-
ting into the bilge of the boat if occasion should require
your cleaning out the lirnbers, or to clean out the bottom
when you lay her up. The two cockpit floors should be
only 2 to 4 inch strips, the narrower they are the more
yachty is the appearance. These decks should be caulked,
payed and puttied and a rabbeted oak sill set in white lead
and nailed down forming a sort of frame to receive the
lower end of the cockpit staving. It takes a little extra
work to get this rabbeted sill out and most amateurs, in-
stead of doing so. will be tempted simply to nail a cleat on
deck and then nail staving against this cleat; but the latter
is very apt to leak, vvhile the former insures an absolutely
watertight job, and if j'ou have ever Iain in a bunk and
felt the cold drip from a leaky deck you will know what
this means. Take time and do it right now. You can-
not change it later without a great deal of trouble and ex-
pense.

The laying of the side decks is slightly dififerent. An
oak edge-piece (sailors call it the "covering board") about
4 inches wide, the same thickness as .the deck, which
should be about one inch thick, is to be fitted so its outer

edge is even with the outside of the planking. From
there in the deck is laid in narrow strips. The forward
and after ends of this decking are nailed to oak cleats
fastened to the side of the after end of the house and the
forward end of the after deck.

From the end of the raised deck the main cabin is made
of two built-up sides consisting of a top and bottom rail
with vertical stiles mortised and tennoned into them, form-
ing the windows as shown in the plans. These sides are
fastened to the deck by rods of five-sixteenths iron go-
ing through the lower rail thr.ough the deck and the
end of the oak deck beams. By making these sides of
I -inch stock you will have wood enough to dovetail the
ends of the short cabin beams into them. Here, also, it
is customary to run one or two beams clear across from
side to side to held the sides accurately in position until
all the others are in place, the deck laid and the sides of
the skylight erected. Then, when the boat is secured
by the skylight beams 'going across, these can be sawed
out and their ends, as well as all the other beams,
covered by a 3-inch by J^-inch finishing strip or, if you
do not object to the ends of the beams showing, you can
round ofif the ends of the beams with a chisel and let
them show._ '

The construction of the cabin skylight is just the same
as the cabin sides, although, of course, it is longer. The
beams are dovetailed into the sides just as the cabin-
house beams were, the deck laid in strips of white pine
about 4 inches wide by %-inch thick and the whole cov-
ered with canvas, just as the main deck was when it was
laid, the canvas being held at the edges by a row of cop-
per tacks and the ragged edge of the canvas covered by
a half-round oak molding.

You have probably seen boats whose cabin-houses were
defaced by dirty black stains running down from under
this molding. If you will shellac the inside of the half-
round molding before you put it on you will not have
this difficulty.

The after end of the cabin, the forward and after
cockpits, are to be built of ^-ihch tongued and grooved
cypress staving about 2J/2 inches wide bradded to the sill-
pieces and edge of the deck. Do not drive your brad^
straight in. Put them in on a slant and they will pull
the staving and hold it much tighter. Punch the nail-
heads in and finish the holes with a bit of putty.

How to Build "Mollyhawk"

Part III
By C. G. Davis

ANYONE capable of building Mollyhawk's hull knows
enough to lay a quarter-inch tongue and groove cabin
floor, and to build the seats and bulkheads either of
one wide board set on edge or by fir§t building a spruce
frame and staving up the front with- cypress or yellow
pine tongue and groove staving, in narrow widths.
Boards two to three inches wide with their edges cham-
phered so that when they come together they make a
"V" shape seam is just as good and far cheaper to build
than a transopi front all formed of panels or other forms
of expensive joiner work. All such ginger bfead work,
while it rriakes, a boat look a little more stylish is no bet-
ter than a plain pine board painted or a tongue and groove
staving as we have suggested, and you can refinish the
latter with one half the trouble and expense of a fancy
paneled transom. " The advantage of the "V" seam formed
by the champhered edge is that it hides any slight un-
evenesses in the thickness of the seam vvhere the two
boards come together, which is not the cas'e where the
boards are square edged and, especially, if it is painted
white. But as to just how you finish the interior of your
boat, whether you use expensive joiner work or the plain
cheap kind does not in any way affect the serviceability of
Mollyhamk. It is a matter of personal taste and entirely
up to you to say just how much money you care. to spend
on it. You can use cypress at about 5 cents 'a foot or
use bird's eye maple or Circassian walnut at about 30
cents a foot. The same- thing applies to the hardware
below decks. Some owners will use the ordinary lac-
quered' iron door-knobs and locks and drawer-pulls.
Others will use glass ones, and others solid brasis ones,
the latter are far preferable, but when you buy them
make sure that you are getting solid brass and not iron
•simply dipped in brass, as much of the boat hardware
now sold is made. You will find, in a couple of years,
the rust will strike thfocigh and your boat hardware will
be anything but a thing of beauty. Especially is this true
of the deck fittings, such as flagpole sockets, chocks and
other deck plates, although my choice for such fittings
would be galvanized iron in preference to brass. They
are just as strong, if anything, stronger than brass, will
not look so shoddy as brass does when it becomes tarn-
ished, and if for any reason the galvanizing does get
nicked you can retouch it with a bit of aluminum paint
and make it look as if it had just come from the Store.
Let me call your attention to one apj^arently insignificant
point about fastening on your deck plates and that is to
see that- the screw heads fit perfectly into the ccm,nter-

sink bored in the chock or deck plate, whatever the fittmg
may be. Sometimes a hole for the screw is bored vertical,
while the face of the deck plate is slightly beveling. The
result is that one sharp corner of this screw-head sticks
out like a knife, and will cut you when you polish the
brass, and on which strings of cotton waste generally;
cling, looking anything but pretty. Use a metal countei''
sink in your brace and bitt and ream out the holes until
the screw heads just fit flush with the surface of. the
metal. Do not leave the heads standing up, and, on the
other hand, do not let them sink an eighth of an inch or
so below the surface of the metal. In that case you should
use a screw with a larger head to fill up the hole, for
such holes form puddles for the dirty brass polish or
water.

There is one little point in the construction of Molly-
hazvk that I wish to draw your attention to particularly,
and that js the knee on the after quarter, just above the
half round moulding. This is called a quarter badge, and
it is just such little fittings as this that set off your boat
and add- to her shippy appearance. Do not try to make-
this out of half-rinch wood and plaster it on, for it will
not stand. It is not like putting interior trim in a house,
but get it out of one thick oak or, hackmatack knee, as
shown in the accompanying sketch, in which you will see
that the knee itself is about two inches larger than what
shows on the outside. By making the knee about two
and a half inches thick you can cut a rabbitt in it and
fasten the. ends of the planking to it, leaving the little
quarter badge extending out about a quarter of an inch
beyond the planking and yet it will be solid enough not
to curl or crack in the weather.. While we are talking
about knees just consider the. two little sketches here
shown. Most people do hot think the mere outline of a
knee has anything to do with a boat's looks, but in this
they are wrong. Just as quickly as a house architect
wou'd notice a house built without eaves, so can a man
used to water and ships spot a clumsy, amateurish shaped
knee as shown in the upper figure. Such a knee, while
it might be useful and appropriate in building a chair
or a table,«will make Mollyhawk\\ook clumsy if it is used
at the after end of her cabin or the forward end of the
little raised deck aft, the turtle deck, as you might call it,
where on either side a knee- is shown which fills up what ,
would otherwise be a very awkward looking square corner. '
Make the lower arm of the knee longer'than the upright
end and of some such curve as I have here shown.

Another little detail to which I want to call your at-

THE HOLDS IN PLACE

tention, and which applies not only to Mollyhawk but to
all boats, is the quarter bitts aft and heavy mooring bitt
forward. This forward one should go down and be
mortised into the forward deadwood, although many peo-
ple only use a short bitt and key it fast on the under side
to an oak block" which fits from deckbeam to deckbeam.
This, to my way of thinking, brings too much strain on a
yacht's deck for the main mooring bitt forward. Such a

PUTTING ON THE RIBBANDS

style of construction is all right for the small quarter bitts
aft, but I would not advise its use forward. How many
people have ever considered the reason why the edges
of the bitts were champhered ofif the way they are on
ships? Very, few, I'll guarantee. But when I explain
the reasons for it by means of the diagrams, A. B. C. D.
and E. a blind man can see the point. I have seen bitts'
rounded ofif into all manner of fancy shapes, the man
who did it evidently thinking that the idea of champhering
a bitt was to make a fancy piece of furniture out of it.
The real reason is this : The head of a bitt, as shown
in figure A, is there to make rope fast to, and, naturally,
the strongest part of this bitt is right at the deck. The
higher up you go the more leverage the anchor cable
has to break it. For that reason the champher is cut at
such an angle as will make the cable ride down, and ride
is the nautical word for slide, close to the deck. If you
ever go to sea on an old sailing ship, where nearly every-
one of the many ropes has to be coiled down over belaying
pins, you would soon notice that on a belaying pin,
shaped like Figure B, you can lay fake after fake over
such a pin and they will pile up clear to the top withc«,t
sliding off, as shown in Figure B. While with one shaped
like C, when you get near the top the upper fakes of rope
will begin to slide uo over the top, as in Figure E, and
you cannot coil nearly as much rope over such a pin. I
have seen an old, deep water mate go along a ship's bul-
warks, and every pin he found patterned after that shown
in C he'd heave away to leeward with a deep sea blessing
on the heffd of the man who made it.

A precaution to be taken when you are building the
deck frame of your boat is to fit inch and a half oak
blocks, snug between the deck beams and nailed to the

same so they will come underneath the deck wherever
there is to be a deck fitting fastened above. Do not trust
to the deck. Soft white pine will never hold the screws,
nor is it a good practice to put a cleat on deck so that only
one screw comes into a deck beam, and you trust to that
one good fastening to hold.

The finishing off of the boat after she is all planked
and decked is most important if you want a good looking
boat. The trouble with most amateurs is that by the time
they get this far they are so anxious to get their boat
afloat that they do not take the time to properly nlane off,
sandpaper and otherwise prepare the wood to properly re-
ceive the paint. Do not shirk this part of the work. Keep
at the planing off of the seams and planking until all
humps and hollows have disappeared and the plank, any-
way you bend a small batten around its surface, shows ab-
solutely fair. When it has been planed as true as is pos-
sible, start in with coarse sandpaper, folded over a block
of wood and scrub the plank crossway to the grain until
every plane mark is obliterated. Then, with finer sand-
paper, rub it fore and aft, cutting O'Ut the marks of the
heavier paper. Then, and not until then, is your boat-
ready for paint. In a boat where wooden plugs have been
fitted over her planking you can go still farther by taking
a bucket of hot water and a big sponge and sponging over
the entire ptenking from deck to keel on both sides.
Your boat has to be wet sometime, and the wood and the
plugs have to swell. This sponging process makes the
wood go through it's swelling before she gets overboard
and shows particularly in the case of the plugs, which,
owing to the wood having been slightly compressed when
driven in with a hammer, is more apt to expand than the
planking, and you can go around your boat as soon as the
wood has dried with a chisel and shave off dozens of plugs
that have swelled out a sixteenth of an inch or so beyond
the surface of the wood. You can imagine what this
would have done had you first painted your boat. For
this reason many experienced boatmen never attempt to
finish up a brand new boat as soon as she is built. They
launch her and use her a month or so, then haul her out
and allow her to thoroughly dry and then put her through
the finishing process of sandpaper and two or three good
coats of paint, for, by that time, the wood has come and
gone all it will, due to swelling and any little straining
the boat may do until she gets swelled up tight and
solid has been done. Now, when she is finished, she will
last for years, only requiring the surface of the paint. to be
replaced where it wears cw,t.

For those who do not understand just how the line-up
to which the copper is to be painted, for in Mollyhawk we

nttJeck beam

DoTjot pulo cltitnsy
\ooKinq knee like tnis
on MOLLYHAWK.-

The QOiarrer badqe \ha\ shows
df the afber end of>10LLYH/\WK5'
upper plank\T7q is a Ijoo inch oak
Vnee rabbeted so part of it extends
out W beyond the plank uStncYi
are fdsl^ened lb it.'

AqMcetul knee will
add cJ whole lot' .to Vic
appearance

show what is called a boot-top, that is, several inches of
the copper paint shows above water when she is afloat,
a few words on this subject may be of assistance. With
the boat set absolutely plumb, tack a straight edged
board across the bows at the height you want the boot-top
forward, and' another across the stern the height the
boot-top is to be raised there. Between these two, just so
it clears the side of the hull amidships, allow a fish cord to

sag until it gives you the proper height amidships, which,
as you will notice, is lower than at either end. Then,
with a long spirit level or a batten of wood and a short
one, you can go along this line at intervals of every foot
or so and mark spots on the planking to correspond with
the height of this line. Then tack a batten, carefully sight-
ing along it as you do so, to See that there are lio lunfair
kinks in it, and with a race knife or the point of a brad
awl cut or scratch a light groove along in the planking.
Many a man before you has made the mistake of simply
marking this with a lead pencil, which the first coat of
paint has obliterated, for even a scratch, in time, becomes
lost to sight through being-filled up with the paint. It is
a good practice to always keep this mark visible by re-
scratching it occasionally, for nothing looks worse on a
boat, as you yourself may have noticed, than a crooked
wave-like line, where the two paints meet.

While it does not matter, if the boat is to be used in
fresh water, whether the bottom be painted with a copper
compound or not, it does make a great deal of difference
if she is to be used in salt water where the torredo works
such havoc in boat's planking by eating innumerable
holes in it. Copper paint is the only thing that will keep
this destructive little worm away and for that reason a
great many people believe that copper paint should be put'
right onto the bare wood so that the Copper can soak into

Hole for screw)
Txjl bored dt- t>ie.
nc]U ancjle

Screw put
in riqbt:

Screw Vie<jd
vo\ cour\\er5unk
deep enoucjh

5creiv head.
coMntersMTik
too deep

the pores of the wood, but as it is the liquid that really
goes into the wood, depositing the copper on the outside
of the planking, it is very doubtful whether this method
has any virtue in it or not, or whether the copper be ap-

plied on top of a fine coat of lead. One thing we do
know, and that is that the bottom should be kept com-
pletely covered, with some copper paint and, not allowed
to chafe to the bare wood.

■w«ii« "•'«)'■

Mow short deck bilhs
are keyed fas^ cinder
the deckTo&amt

The finish of Mollyhawk I am going to leave entirely
to those who build her. I do not know 'of any business
that has so m^ny conflicting opinions as that of painting
a boat. Of course, I have my own views on the subject,
but I can take you to another yachtsman who has had
equal experience and he may advocate an entirely different
manner of painting the boat. Some want a white painted
top side. Others stoiitly condemn it and say any color
but white should be used. Some want varnished decks.
Some would not have a varnished deck. Some will swear
by one brand of varnish and some by another, all the re-
sult of personal experience on- their part and more than
likely the different opinions have been the result of ac-
cident more than anything else.

So, paint Mollyhawk any color you like; you'll do it to
suit yourself, anyhow — you've a right to; she's yours.

How to Build the "Beaver"

[ A 23- Foot Cabin Cruiser. A Big, Roomy, Safe and Seaworthy Little Craft. Just

What the Boys Want

BY C. G. DAVIS

The "Beaver" As She Will Appear Afloat

TELL you how to build a 23-foot cabin cruiser?
Surely I will; that's the easiest part of the business,
but it is up to you amateurs to do the real hard part
of the work, the cutting out, fitting and fastening.
And yet while it is hard work, it is one of the most enjoy-
able kinds of labor. You see the ship which is to be your
future home grow by your own toil and labor. There's
some satisfaction in building a boat that one is to use for
his own, which is lacking when one builds as a business
and never expects to see how the boat, over which he has
toiled for weeks, behaves herself when in a sea.

To those men who have years of experience on the
water, the Beaver will appeal with all her good points.
Those who are newcomers to the pleasures of motorboat-
ing and who make their criticisms with no actual experi-
ence to back them, may say she is too wide or too high,
or too something else, but these men I ask: "Have you
■ever been aboard of a converted Cape Cod catboat?" If
not, you have no right to criticize this plan. Don't
imagine that, because you have had a sail on a narrow
motorboat and enjoyed it, the enjoyment could not be
magnified by a trip on such a boat as Beaver. She has
every requisite of a comfortable little cruiser for two or
«ven four men or boys to go off for weeks at a time and
live in comfort. Her beam gives room to move a step or
two sidewise, and one is not confined to a narrow foot
well such as ordinary small craft have between their
transoms. Some may say her beam will make her a poor
sea .boat, but any day Beaver cannot go out no boat of
her length will care to go.

Every man imagines his own boat is laid out better
below decks than any other boat he ever saw, but let him
look over Beaver and see if he can get any more room
than has been put into this 23-foot boat Every inch of
her has been utilized, from the coat room up in the bows
to the ice-box and lazarette under the after deck. Two
comfortable seven-foot transoms, two feet wide, afford
permanent beds in the cabin, while out in the cockpit
two more may be made up with curtains buttoned down
to the sides of the awning, and berths made up on the
long cocknit seats. A toilet room fitted with every con-
venience is shown, but this, of course, an owner can dis-
pense with if he does not care for it. We have shown it
to prove that it is possible to get such a room in the boat.

Also on the starboard side a completely equipped galley
is iitted in at this part of the boat, where the heat and
smoke from it can best escape out the companionway,
and not heat Op the cabin. The engine can be gotten at,
and yet is completely out of the way, just its flywheel
protruding a few inches into the cabin to enable one to
start the engine. Two cylindrical tanks, one for water
and one for gasolene, are fitted in chocks and securely
lashed under the cockpit sides, where they are least apt
to affect the trim of the boat, as their weight decreases,
and at the same time are spread apart to assist the boat in
swing'ing with a slow, easy recovery in a sea way

What the Beaver will look like when completed is
shown in the sketch and accompanying plan showing the
deck view and appearance above the waterline. The
resemblance to a roomy Cape Cod catboat is noticeable,
and is intentional, as that type, when converted into a
motorboat, has proven itself a most satisfactory cruiser ;
but with the similarity in bottom the parallel ends:
Beaver is a typical motorboat from there up, yet one that
lias elbow room seldom found even in motorboats much
larger than 23 feet. It is queer that with the hundreds
of examples before us of converted sailboats' hulls, and
the speed, weatherliness and comfort thus attained, no
one has attempted to design boa. along these lines.

But let's get busy, for the plans speak for themselves,
and anv one who wants to build does not need convincing
that she will be a good boat ; too many of Motor Boat's
subscribers have been waiting for such a craft, as the
many letters received testify

If you have a shop, shed or barn where you can build
your boat under cover, so much the better ; if not, and you
have to build her out in the weather, be sure and shovel
off the loose top soil and get your keel blocks firmly
planted on hard ground, so they vvill not settle under
the boat as she accumulates weight.

The keel is a straight piece of oak 22 feet 1 1 inches
finished length, 3 inches thick by 4 inches deep. Pick
out a straight, clear-grained piece, as free from large
knots as possible. If you order this stock for your keal
at a mill, order it dressed, as it is termed. It will only
take the mill a few moments to run it through a power
planer, and then you will have a good, smooth stick. If"
not, you will have to scrub it off with a plane, and this is

a.
or

considerable work. Then cut it to the shape as shown in
the drawing, which as you will notice is very little work
indeed, and we have purposely made it so. In fact,
everything about the boat has purposely been made simple
and easy for amateurs to build. The rabbet, for instance,
instead of being a dug-out rabbet, as it would be with
a log keel, in this boat amounts merely to a chamfering
of the top edge. The angle at which this chamfer is to
be cut is explained in the accompanying sketches, Figs, i
and 2, on page 14, and is found by taking a piece of wood
the same thickness as your planking and butting it against
the too corner of the keel at the anele the molds make
where they fit on the keel.

First cut notches opposite each mold; then with a bat-
ten draw connecting lines and cut the rabbet from one
spot to another, continuously, but do not try to finish it
where it runs into the stem and where the deadwaods lap
onto the stern. Leave the rabbet uncut there until you
have the deadwoods bolted on. Then, with a batten, draw
the line in far across the stem and cut the rabbet. It
would be well in all cases to paint the various parts of
the keel as you get them out with a thin coat of lead
paint, to prevent their checking as they dry out, which
they are bound to do unless your wood is already per-
fectly seasoned.

Now, get out the stem. This also is of oak, and re-
quires a piece of wood 6 feet 6 inches long, 3 inches
thick and 10 inches wide at its widest part, tapered to 6
by 3 at the top. Smooth off the stem the same as you did
your keel on both sides, but remember one point, and that
is always to v/ork all the deadwOods, stem, etc., from one
side only; that is, if you are squaring up from the star-
board side of the stem, keel and deadwoods. in squaring
the edges, always apply your square to this face, making
everything square to it. If you try your square first on
one side and then on the other, you may find uneven-
nesses of the pieces of wood that will throw the square
off

Get the lower end of the stem so that it fits, notching

-J
Q-

over the end of the keel as
shown in the plan, and then
lay out the lines marked
rabbet line arid bearding
line. Between these two
you are to chisel out the
notch termed the rabbet,
into which the ends of all
the planking are to fit. You
will notice that these two
lines are narrowed together
at the top and spread apart
considerably at the bottom.
The reason for this is the
planking approaches the
stem at a much sharper
angle near the bottom, the

same thickness of plank requires a broader surface fore
and aft. The planking in this boat is three-quarters of an
inch thick and this rabbet and bearding line has been
figured on our plans for this thickness of wood, and you
will find, if you take a small piece of j4-inch wood as a
templet, when you chisel out
the rabbet and apply it at the
different bevels at which the
different waterlines approach
the stem, that you will require
just the widths shown on the
Stem for the rabbet. Figs. 3,
4 and 5 illustrate what will
happen if you do not get this
rabbet cut just right. In
Fig. 3 the plank is shown as
it properly fits into the rabbet.
The outside of the plank
finishes flush with A, which is
the rabbet line, the inside fin-
ishing flush at the spot • B,
representing the bearding line.
If you do not hold the little
templet of the planj^ing at the
right angle. Figs. 4 and 5 show
what will happen. In Fig. 4
the templet has not been ap-
plied at enough of an angle,
and in Fig. 5 the angle is too
acute, and you will notice the
e<

Fia-s r/a-?

F/^ctre. 8 shoov^ /hA ^ee/ hraceef To the f/^^or, /^/i^ure. 9
J /tow 3 hocu nruc/t eas/er/th fo work arot/rid a b^af
n//ie/i fhc braces ca/? /be puf u/^ /o f/ie beams Oi^enhe/xl.

Kee/

The ra^be/^ a/ond^ or? f/?e Aee/ /j or?A-

^ be ye/ cu/ ^o ^/7e ^/i^mc/i p/a/ik
i!^/// ///' ^(^6/are a/ //?£ d:^//'/er£'/7f
a/^g/so /^ i^J7/c/? //" m^e/i //7e /res/.

dge of the plank does not fit rom/ara me a/tif/?/c C/a/^a /^(Pr& //<?/'- the pene end of a top maul
m flush with the surface of the //?^/- ^^/^j^/^j- ^^/-^ ^^/yj^^^/ In regular boat shops they
wood. This same principle ap- / ^ / have a five or ten-pound block

you can very often make
use of carriage bolts, but
here you need galvanized
rod iron. Any firm that
sells boat hardware carrie?
this in stock in all sizes
from J4-'nch up to i inch
or more in diameter. For
this boat you will require
two rods of about Ji-inch
iron and about two dozen
clinch rings for the same.
Bore your holes as shown
in the plan where the bolts
are to go, measure the ex-
act length with a little thin
piece of wood, and get the
bolts just the right length to reach from one edge of
wood to the other, allowing the heads on the outside to
countersink to a depth of about ^ to i inch, and this
countersink should be bored with about J^-inch bitt.
These holes, we might here say, are afterward to be

filled with wooden plugs which
you can also buy* at a boat
hardware store. Hold the
bolts in a vise and rivet up
one end so you form quite a
good-sized head on it, and
while doing this you will no-
tice the quality of the iron
you are using, and it should
be such that as you form the
head, it will not flake off and
fly in pieces, but will stand
turning over and forming a
good, strong ridge.

Paint the adjoining faces of
the stem and knee with a
good, thick mixture of white
lead paint just before you bolt
them together. Then drive
the bolts in from the outside,
put a clinch ring over the in-
ner end, and rivet them up
firmly, having some one hold
on against the outer end with
a good heavy weight, such as

^ntic/j/jz/^s.

/2>ni/an^

plies aft, of course, as well as
forward, where you get the
rabbet line across the dead-
wood shaft log and stern tim-
ber. Be sure that the after
side of the stem is cut perfectly
square with the working face,
and then get out a stem knee,
as shown in the drawing, and
see also that. the edges of this
are perfectly square. If they
are not, when you come to
rivet the stem and keel to-
gether to this knee, they will
not be in a perfect line, but
will stand decidedly crooked
and twisted.

Owing to the different
lengths of bolts needed in the
keel and deadwoods, carriage
bolts are very seldom used.
When you come to bolt the
clamps and frames together.

FIG -3.

F/S-^

F/as

of iron with a hole drilled in
it, into which a stub end of an
iron bolt is put, which they
hold against the bolts, but
this, of course, amateurs
would hardly have at hand.
There is one bolt, the forward
one in the keel, that does not
go all the way through. This
is called a driftbolt. Bore for
this the same as you did the
other, but be careful the bitt
you use does not bore a hole
so large that the bolt will slip
in too loosely. If anything, it
should be i/16-inch smaller
than the drift bolt, so that, as
you drive it in it will hold and
draw the wood tightly to-
gether.

The after end of the back-
bone of this boat is composed
of several pieces of wood, and.

JTEM

Keel

Qtem_

De^^woad^

5haff Lo(^

5 te n7 Hn e €

stern Kn(f&

Ouartef Kioees

BreastJiooK .

.y^ouMi

Transom

F/onrs

Deck I3e>.am5

Cnckp/t fleams

•J<o,

Fra/n&S

PJank/y?c

(^ahifl dick

Cni/arina tinarti

Off-er ibfffC k

C'oc/<pft' f/oor

Cahw. f/oor

3 iA //(/7 ead^

U/&ann,

Mo/j/^

C/ampr,

inij jfnp

■rkf.

C/amp

A^/>nn'n^ l3/ff-

owing to difficulties many amateurs
have in borine their shaft holes, we
have shown that style of construc-
tion in which the shaft log is built
up of two pieces of wood, with one-
half the shaft hole gouged out of
each piece, and the two held to-
gether by iron dowels. Get these
two pieces out first, and the piece of
deadwood that is to go under them,
as per plan, and then bolt them to-
gether, riveting up the bolts on the
inside of the shaft hole, but be sure
they are countersunk well below the
shafthole, so as not to interfere with
the sleeve when you come to put it
through the shaft hole. Then bolt
the stern timber to the upper piece
of the shaft log, and the up and
down sternpost which binds the ends
of these deadwood pieces together.
Be very careful that the holes for
your dowels which extend in a row
either side of the shaft hole in the
shaft logs are perfectly in line, so
when you set one piece of wood on
the other, they will drive tightly
together. The two shaft logs in
this boat, owing to the deadwood
being only 3 inches wide, are made
of heavier stuff, 4 inches, beveled
off outside of the rabbet line, so
they face down with the 3-inch
stuff.

When the deadwood is all bolted
together, drift bolts and all, get out
a stern knee, as shown in the plan.
To this the transom is to be riveted.
The transom is made of i^-inch
oak, the shape shown in the plans,
but, of course, you cannot buy a
piece of oak as wide as is required
for this. So you have to join two or
more boards together to get the re-
quired width. This requires another
nice piece of carpenter work to face
up both edges so as to make a per-
fect seam, and then dowel the two
together. Fig 6, on page 18, shows

one method of doing this, that is, where they are doweled
together, and Frg. 7 shows how an amateur who feels he
cannot successfully make the dowel joint, can put them
together by nailing cleats across the inner face of them.

It is generally customary to get this much of the boat
all bolted together before the keel is "set up," as it is
termed, and the manner of doing (his varies according to
the conveniences — or lack of them — at the builder's dis-
posal: For instance, a man who has a shop with a good,
level floor to work on, has many advantages over the man
who has to work outdoors on the ground. All the former
has to do is to lay a pile of blocking along the floor which
will raise his keel 14 inches at the forward end and 6>4
at the after end, as marked in the plan. But a man who
has to do this work outdoors will have to scrape away the

List of lumber needed to construct BEJWER

B/tf:s

TF/jMur

Ci'jamjni

C/^mpa/iJibn/jgy Posts

T/./7/- ^ramfls

i^caf a/afj

Burks - franll

fops

face.
T ria.

.•Sky/tahf ri/t/pe.

ands

■ramrJ

NO. OP
PIfCES

one.

2M.

one,

one

one.

one

tu/o

o ne.

one

12.

fVUi

fUJO

one.

four

fan

nine.

one

j/y

■5/x

^ree.

twafi/e.

J/y

fiJ'O

tm/o

four

fujo

one

fujn

one.

one

three

thUO

ten

foa

fni'r

tiun

one

lENen
n I IN.

iP-

IM.

its..

rnmoanionajfjy

Deck h,7iren3

JU/a^

Taio

tSL

THICK.

n\in

/•A

IV^

/•A

tik

'A.

mem
rr. I IN.

Ji.

t!k

iAnJOO

nnk

nak

oak

tiackmatiie

tia^Amalhc,-
harJcmatoe.

sprues

■sonjce

jpn/ee.

oak.

oak

spruce

.oaf:

oak

cedar

oak

p/ne

etiT}

//«■ ai>k

rt,.

yg/. pn

oak

oa k

oak

nak

n£tfflK/<i

3' arms

2' arnfS

U003f. ft.

/20s^. ft

70 ft

t^a^

to iioirer

/i/t/fraund

nr .spruce

T?tn/II?KS

dressedf

.i^/jars

3/^u aK&

nijtsf/^are.

ln_sauaft:<-
un p/aue/^ '

dr/>sj^d

t^resseij

dr^sse^

or/jni/t

■ial_

COS_}f^_ftL2

dresse^t

ftd. nak

oak

spruce.

^/^?r aak

pine

ft<< cak

p m e

oak

much better system of shoring the keel to the rafters or
beams overhead, which leaves the floor perfectly clear for
a man to walk and vvork around his boat without stum-
bling over the braces. The stem and transom should be
braced both sidewise and fore and aft, as considerable
strain is to be put upon both of them when you come to-
bend the stiff yellow pine ribbands around as you proceed
with the work.

Where these braces are nailed fast to the upper part of
the stem, called the stem head, it is customary to leave
that part of the stem larger than is needed for the fin-
ished job, or to leave the stem head longer than is actu-
ally needed, and then when the planking is all on and you-
can dispense with the shores, the stem head, which at this

part is full of nails, can be dressed down or if left longer,
loose earth and get down to hard pan before he begins to can be sawed right off and thrown away. In the case of
build up his blocking. If he doesn't, he will find that as the after end at the transom you cannot do this, so secure

the weather comes and goes, rain and dry, the blocking
will settle his boat all out of line.

The manner of holding the keel firmly to the blocking
while you put up the molds and proceed to the building of
the boat is also done in various ways. Fig. 8 shows the
method where these braces dre carried down to the floor
or to the ground, as the case may be, while Fig. 9 shows a

the braces to the inner face of the transom, where the
holes will not show when you take the nails or screws,,
whichever you have used, out of the braces.

The temporary molds which are to serve as guides to
give you the shape of the boat when framing, can be
made of about i-inch stuff if the boat is to b6 built with-
cold fitted timbers. By this I mean timbers bent over a

«l *l *l wi

?!
1 *<

7V «" *" *■ *■

«-

•■' 6-

V SK

3
O

c
o

<»

"a
o

-~^

■^

r~v

^ 3

is!
a;

-i

i«

*■

6"'

-»^

'-»=-'

"-s^

«.-

3
O

(f)

Jhau/,'/7f /km HKpiecafi>rmirKfam>ui/are.fiafc/Kef TofeZ/ier

•/9oy/o e/q/ oj fijonac suij

mold and when cold beveled and fitted in around the rib-
bands which run fore and aft along from one of these
molds to the other, but if the boat is to be framed with
hot timbers, that is, the timbers taken from the steam box
and bent directly in around the ribbands, it would be ad-
visable to make these molds of at least ij^-inch or 2-inch
spruce. It does not have to be a very good quality of
wood, as it is all temporary work, and is of no use what-
ever when the boat is done.

A great fault with many of the amateurs in attempting
to build a boat is in trying to do with too few of these
molds. Some of the best boatbuilders in the country go
to the trouble of making an individual mold for every
frame, but this, of course, is not necessary in this case.

1 have shown five molds, Nos. I, 2, 3, 4 and 5, and given
all the dimensions necessary for determining their shape.
Mold No. t; is to be set up three feet forward of the after
«dge of the transom and the

others each four feet apart.
Molds 4 and 5 have their
faces aft and the Molds i, 2
and 3 are to be set with their
faces forward. Mold i is
set where frame 4 goes, No.

2 where frame 8, No. 3
•where frame 12, No. 4 where
frame 16, and No. 5 at frame
20. These frames will have
to be left out until the molds
are removed and then put in
in their places.

An amateur could sav.e
<;ohsiderable time, perhaps,
by cutting the boards out of
which the molds are to be
made so as to approximate
roughly the shape desired,
and measuring off from the
center line the measurements
given in the mold shapes, and
<lrawing a batten through
this, but while doing so, he
.should be very careful that
the boards do not shift. If
they do, the whole mold will
■be of imperfect shape and
the boat will be unfair when
you come to build her.

If you have a large, clean
floor space, or the same could

be provided by laying down sheets of heavy brown wrap-
ping paper, it -might be well to measure off these mold
shapes on the floor. Then, by laying a row of nails so
that their heads just came along on the line so drawn,
the shape could be reproduced on to thin pine pattern
boards by laying them carefully over the nails and stamp-
ing on them. This is the way it is done in a boat shop.
These thin patterns are then cut with a draw-knife and
again fitted back to the pen .il marks on the floor. When
they are found to be accurate, they are tacked together to
give one side of the mold, for in boat work we only do
one side at a time and reproduce the other side by simply
reversing the pattern. The molds themselves can then be
cut by laying this pattern onto the heavier stock out of
which the molds are made.

In a professional boat shop, where a power-driven
"band-saw is at hand, the labor of getting out these molds
•does not amount to very much, but an amateur who has
to saw them out by hand and drag them out with a draw-
■knife will think by the time he has got out his molds
alone, he has done pretty nearly enough work to build
the boat. If a mill is handy he might take his patterns
there and have the molds. sawed out.

Seftmcf up a mould ■■

When the two sides of the mold have been cut out,
spread them out on the floor, one each side of a center
line, as shown in Fig. 10, and cleat them securely together.
The upper ends should be left about six inches longer
than is actually needed in "the boat. This is done so that
the cross pall, as it is called, which in plain language
means the brace across the tops of them, can be bolted fast
to the molds, so the lower edge comes just flush with
what is to be the sheer line in the boat. This you will
find later will be a considerable help to you.

Another form of checking up the boat's molds is to
mark where the load waterline and center line come.
Then you can plumb your mold when you set it up on
the keel by dropping a plumb bob from the center mark
on the cross pall to make sure the mold stands plumb,
and you can also, with a spirit level, see whether it is
level across. You cannot be too particular in putting up

your molds to see that all
this worlc is very carefully
done, if you do not want to
build a lop-sided boat, and
that is what you will surely
get if you are not very care-
ful in plumbing the molds.
As all the strain of bending
in the hot frames comes
upon these molds, you cqn
readily understand that they
must be very securely braced,
the same as the stem and
transom were, the overhead
method being far preferable.
They can also be braced by
running a fairly wide plank,
say, a plank 6 or 8 inches
wide, down through the mid-
dle of the boat, so one edge
of this board just lines up
with the center mark of each
mold. This will help hold
the molds in position, and at
the same time is an excel-
lent fore and aft brace for
them.

There are several methods
which can be used in fram-
ing the boat. Some builders
use one method and some
another. So, when I 5tate in
this particular case one meth-
od of how to build this boat, and you see a boatbuilder
doing it another way, do not imagine that he doesn't know
his business, or that I do not know mine. It is merelj' a
matter of choosing which way we think will be the easiest;
under the circumstances. Builders, for instance, put up,
say, four molds which show the shape of the boat at four
points, bend very light spruce or yellow pine ribbands
around these molds, and saw out the shape of each par-
ticular frame. Others bend a lot of frames over a mold
that approximates very closely to the shape, allow these
frames to set and become cold, and then fit them one by
one, beveling them and straightening them out wherever
necessary to give the shape, and riveting them up in pairs
before they go into the hull, but when they do go in, they
are perfect and complete.

If I were building a boat myself, this would be the
method I should follow, but it is much more difficult, and
for that reason I am going to tell, an easier way in which
the amateur can perform the same work, and that is, in-
stead of bending light ribbands around your molds, you
must get good, solid ones, say 2 inches square, of yellow
pine, long enough to reach from one end of the boat to
the other. If not in one piece, they can be reinforced

- O/je man p/oi/nbs //

nishtd, shajpeof, C^i €rs(>x>nj._

FiG-7

^hoai'in^ houi f ransom, is someHmes held
together by c/e43b <3creu/ec/ fasf /ns/'ctc.

where the two join together by a piece 6 or 7 feet long, to
which they are riveted or screwed.

Bend about seven of these around the molds on each
side, then heat up in the steam box as many timbers at a
time as is possible, take them out of the steam box while
still hot and bend them in at intervals of a foot inside of
these ribbands, drawing them up to them by boatbuilders'
screw clamps. This method
does away with all that dif-
ficult beveling which the
timbers that are fitted in
cold are subject to, as here
the timbers while hot ^an
be twisted so that they fit
flat against the ribbands.
For this purpose, while you
are bending them, provide
yourself with a good-sized
monkey wrench, which will
give you leverage enough
to twist most any bevel
necessary in the most stub-
born frame. The greatest
difficulty in framing a boat
this way is the liability of
the frames to split or crack
in two where they are re-
quired to take a quick bend,
which in this boat I have
attempted to dispense with,
making the frames as easy
a sweep as is possible, at the
same tmie getting a well-
shaped boat.

The hardest part of this
frame will be found in the
heads of the after timbers.
There the curve is the

quickest, and it may be necessary to construct a special
mold which will give you about the curve required at that
point, and bending the timbers over it to get that sweep.
Then, if they will not fit in cold at the heels, re-steam
them and bend them in where needed. The novice will
find the subject of steaming frames gone into in detail in
the Motor Boat Handbook, Vol. I.

In buying your oak for the frames, ^ou do not want dry
stock, but on the other hand it could be decidedly green.
If it is too dry — and you will soon be able to tell if such is
the case — the frames will crack right in two. You do
not want any quarter-sawed oak; only the straightest
grain boards should be used.

Do not attempt to use boards for frames that are full of
knots. If you do, you will find there will be considerable
waste, as the frames will break nine times out of ten
where the knot distorts the grain of the wood, and you
will only waste time and material in attempting it. If
you bend in a batch of frames to-day, they will be set
sufficiently by the morrow to enable you to take ofif the
clamps, cut the heels so they butt against each other at
the center of the keel, and then proceed' to nail them se-
curely to the keel with about 2-inch galvanized boat nails,
and nair them lightly to each ribband so that you can do
away with the screw clamps, and use them in bending in a
fresh batch of timbers. It would be impracticable to have
enough screw clamps to frame the boat at one time, and
very, few boatbuilders do so. In fact, by the time you have
bent in six or eight pairs of frames, you could then nail
them temporarily to the battens and remove the clamps to
use on others.

Along in .the way of the engine amidships, that is, be-
tween frames 12 and 16, bend an intermediate frame be-
tween each of the regular timbers, so as to reinforce the
boat at this point, to withstand the vibration of her engine.

5hou/ing hou/ fra/73om ofiapec/ ouf of three pieces 0/
a/oixf /s c^ou//ec^ /b(ferf>er anct c^efa/% of the i^ou/ii/

If you wish to carry this doublmg up of frames a little
further fore and aft, it will not hurt the boat any, but at
least put them as far as shown in the plan

When the frames are all bent, the next step is to rein-
force them at the keel with sawed oak floors, i}/^ inches
thick. To save considerable fitting and to simplify the
job. in this boat we have carried each floor up so that

the top edges provide a
Itve) surface on which the
cabin floor can be laid di-
rect without going to the
trouble of fitting in an ad-
ditional set of floors

Some builders, instead of
using sawed floors as we
have shown here, take Short
pieces of the same stock
that the frames are made
of, say, pieces 4 to 5 feet in
length, steam them and
bend them in right on top
of the frames, across the
keel, connecting one frame
with the other, and riveting
them to the frames. If
this is done, of course, ad-
ditional beams have to be
fitted to receive the cabin
flooring, which our method
of construction dispenses
with. To get the shape of
each floor as you are build-
ing it, stretch a chalk line
fore and aft from stem to
deadwood at the height
shown in the plans, then
take a thin — say % to Yi-
inch pine board — about 4
feet wide and 9 or 10 inches deep, lay it across the top of
the keel, against the frame whose floor you wish to find
the shape of, making sure that the top edge is level, and
with a pencil mark along the outside of each frame on
this board. You will find this a very quick and simple
method of determining the shape, and with a draw-knife
you can cut this thin wood pattern along the pencil line
and use it to cut the shape of the floor out of the heavy
Ij4-inch oak. By beginning amidships, where the angle
of the floor is flatter, you will find as you proceed forward
from frame to frame, the one pattern can be used over
and over again, a shaving being taken off each time as
the angle sharpens up toward the bow, and a similar
method will enable you to ■get the after floors.

Nail the heel of each frame to its floor with a 3-inch
galvanized iron boat or wire nails. You may have to
bore most of the way for these nails. If you do npt, you
may split the frames, which, after all the work you have
gone to, is anything but pleasant.

It is a good practice to double up the ribband that goes
along the head of the timbers — the sheer ribband as it is
called — by bending one outside of the other and lag-
screwing them together to the stem and stern and to each
mold. Do not trust to merely nailing these ribbands to
the molds, for, as sure as you do, you will meet with a
catastrophe by having the ribbands spring off and get your
frame all unfair. The last frame in the boat, frame No.
23 — for our frames in this boat are spaced a foot apart —
is to be screwed fast to the inner face of the transom, re-
inforcing the same so that when you come to put your
planking on, you can put an alternate fastening, one in the
frame and one in the transom, giving a doulsle holding
surface which at the ends of the boat is a very important
part of the construction.

When, all the floors have been gotten out and riveted to

the -frames, you can knock out the temporary molds which
were first erected on the keel, so as to enable you to put
in the fore and aft yellow pine stringers. There are three
of these on each side, one which goes along the upper
edge of the forward timbers, forming ai ledge on which
the cabin roof beams land, another one running along at
what is considered the sheer height, and another one,
known as the bilge stringer, which runs along halfway"
from the keel to the deck edge. The purpose of these
stringers is to stififen the frame, and they should be of
clear yellow pine about 2 inches thick and 4 inches wide.
To jnake them a little easier to bend in the ends where
the curve becomes quite sharp, it is customary to taper
these stringers to, say, ij4 or lyi inches thick by about
3 inches in depth. If you do not taper them, put the for-
ward ends in the steam box and make them soft and
pliable. If you don't, you will never get them around the
curve without breaking.

If you have been careful in bending in your timberSt
and careful that the timbers were of the same size, all ij^
inches thick, before bending them in, you will find that
these clamps will fit fair
and true on the inner edge
-of each timber. If they do
not do so, shave down the
high timbers until they do
make a perfect fit on each
one. If you do not, the
timbers will be pulled in
and out, forming a very ir-
reeular and unfair side line.
Here is the place where you
can use carriage bolts to ad-
vantage, if you want to.
Bore from the outside,
countersink the heads of
each one of the carriage
bolts into the frame, and set
the nut up tight on the in-
side of the clamp, cutting
off any end that may pro-

/tee/ yfu'oak

trude, and tap it a little to slightly rivet it just enough to
keep the nut from untwisting and loosening. Do not
put these bolts in a direct line. Put one, say, near the
top of the clamp, the next near the bottom, etc., staggering
them alternately up and down.

As the cabin beams are to be ij^ inches deep, be sure to
set the upper clamp that distance below the edge of the
boat, puis the thickness of the cabin top, so that when these
beams are nailed to it, their upper surface will just come
flush with the heads of the timbers, which, of course, are
underneath the deck. Now, to stiffen the three corners
which this boat has, that is, the stem and the two quarters
aft, knees are fitted in. In the case of the forward one,
which is technically termed a breast hook, many people
do not go to the trouble and expense of jjutting in a regu-
lar natural growth knee, but, instead, merely fit in a three-
cornered block of oak, the thickness of the deck beams,
iJ/2 or 2 inches, which is notched around the head of the
first timber, or you can cut this timber off flush with the
bilge clamp, and bolt the breast hook to the stem by a
diagonal fastening or with a long bolt bored clear through

from the forward side of
the stem to the after side
of the breast knee.

A.ft, where the angle is
considerably more open, a
knee is far preferable to a
mere block of wood. Their
arms are short. In our case
it only requires a 22-inch
knee of about 2 inches
thickness. This knee is fit-
ted to the inside of the
transom and riveted fast to
the same, spiked to the up-
per edge of the deck clamp,
upon which it rests, and
when the plank goes on,
'iKoci f/oori YQi, can get a few fasten-

"^otoncf boct to be //uihed of 'incTQ nf tVip ^dVi «;frakp into

i^ii' f/ow free/y to fii>mp msH. this knee.

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Part II

BE sure to brace the frames the same as you did the
molds, before you remove them to put in frames in
their place, because the boat will be subjected to
considerable strain in being planked. For this same rea-
son it is better to put in all the deck beams, cabin beams,
and even the cockpit floor beams can be fitted, but not
fastened, as the latter would be in your wav when riveting
up the plank fastenings. This work can be done so much,
easier now than after the hull is all shut in with planking.
The cabin beams are of oak, i inch thick by ij4 to 2
inches ^eep, cut with a sweep that raises them g inches in
the width of 9 feet. You can either sweep this curve with
a long wire or a batten about 13 feet 3 inches long, or
you can lay it out by taking the measurements off a
smaller circle swept with a 9-inch radius, as shown in
Figure 8. The quarter of the circle is divided into four
parts, a, b, c, and the base line in four, 'd, e, f. Then, on
a thin (J/2-inch) pine board 9 feet long, snap a chalk line

use your head and good judgment in selecting the boards^
you can waste a lot of cedar. There is, at best, considr
erable waste in planking a boat, about 25 per cent., gen-
erally, varying more or less as the shape of the boat ap-
proaches or departs from a round, barrel-like shape.

The principle of planking a boat is, the same as the
construction of a barrel. The barrel staves are all shaped
wider in the middle and narrower at the ends, only in a
boat the ends are not all the same size as in a barrel.
After one or two planks have been fitted onto our hull, we
will return to tfiis barrel principle and you will realize the
similarity in construction.

The first, and perhaps the hardest, platlk of all to fit is
the one next to the keel, called the garboard strake. The
difficulty is principally in not knowing how, and in trying
short cuts, but I can assure you that the ancient' boat-
builders have in the past centuries found and made use of
all short cuts, and so don't you try to find out any more..

//oic a tea^ moaU /s /a/d ouf from a (:/rc/e whose yaaf/as eac^a/s' f/ie crou/f? af ^/?e /^eam.

for a base line, and in the middle measure up 9 inches,
then from the middle toward each end divide the 4}4
feet into four equal parts, d, e, f, and lay off the distances
a, b, c, etc., on the bevels, as found in the small circle. Do
the same reversed for the other side and then, by bending
a batten through these spots, you get a true, curve for a
pattern or beam mold by which to mark out your cabin
deck beams.

The beams across the after deck can be cut from the
same pattern, but those across the cockpit floor should be
laid out to a very much flatter curve, one with only about
2 inches round in the width of the cockpit.

Many amateurs, I know, will make them straight across,
because it is easier to do so. The advantages of having
them cur^ved a little is that they will drain off any rain
water quicker than one lard dead flat.

Now comes the job ot planking up. This frightens
many amateurs, but, as a fact, it is one of the most inter-
esting parts of all, when done right and studied aJs you go
on with it. Like an economical tailor, you can cut your
planking so as to make it go a long ways or, if you don't

I know I did when I built my first toat, but I had to come
back to the orthodox method of "spiling."

Spiling for the shape of a plank consists of tacking a
thin board, say, ^-inch thick, to the frames, so that its
lower edge, in near the rabbet, along on the keel, is cut so
that it roughly fits to the curve the ralibet takes onto the
stem, as shown in Figure 9; with another such board
tacked to the after end and the two lapped and nailed to-
gether amidships, or one long plank, if you have it. With
a pair of dividers set to span the greatest distance between
this "spiling staff," as it is called, and the rabbet, prick off
a series of spots to give you the curve necessary to cut the
garboard to, so it will fit. At the ends, where there is con-
siderable curve, lay your rule across at intervals of 3 or
4 inches, and mark a series of lines, to give you the direc-
tion in which the measurements are to be taken off and
measured back on. Take plenty of measurements around
these curves, but along amidships, where the rabbet runs
in a straight line, you will not need so many. One every
foot or 18 inches will be enough.

Then carefully remove this thin pattern (the rule staff)

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and lay it aut flat on the wide, clear cedar board you have
selected to make your garboard of, and proceed to set
these distances back with the dividers still set to the same
distance between their points. Draw a line through these
spots with the aid of a thin batten, tacked outside of the
spots, so the brad holes will not puncture the part you
are going to use, and saw out the shape of the lower edge
and plane it up smooth. The upper edge can be snapped
with a chalk line perfectly straight, and cut out that way.
If the boat, is perfectly true on each side, this same pattern
would fit both sides — you might try the garboard on the
other side and see if it fits. If it does not, take another
"spiling"; that is, repeat the measuring oflf process for
the other. With screw clamps try these planks on, and
mark any imperfections in fit, and cut until they fit per-
fectly all along the rabbet line. When perfect, you can
fasten them on. For this you want two braces and bitts
or twist drills, one with a bitt to cut for a countersink so as
to let the nail head go in about 3/16-inch, so a wooden
plug can be fitted, and be sure the bitt bores a hole the size
of your plugs and not a sixteenth too large or too small,
and another bitt that will bore a snug hole for your nails.
The nails that go into the stem and deadwood should be
galvanized iron nails, about ij4 inches long, and those
that go through the frames where you can get at them to
rivet them up should be 3/16-inch copper nails 2j4 inches
long. Bore with a Dutch gimlet bitt for the fastenings
into the ends, or you may buckle the nail over in the hard
oak, and so split and spoil your plank. Above all, don't try
to hurry the work — go carefully, and you'll get ahead
faster in the end.

You can get out another plank or two to go above the
garboard, making it a good wide plank, for when you get
up around the turn of the bilge you cannot use them so
wide.

Then with these two or three on the bottom put on
what is called the "sheer strake," the one at the deck edge.
With your thin pattern boards as a spile staff, find what
shape the top edge of this board will make by measuring
off at intervals with the dividers as before. Then make
the plank about 6 inches wide in the middle, 4 inches at
the bow, and 3 inches at the stern, sweeping in a fair line
with a batten. Where the deck clamp comes in your way".
sO you cannot rivet the fastenings, use the galvanized
iron boat nails instead.

Now you have to stop and do some figuring to see how
many planks it will take to fill in the remaining space, so
that you will not have a patchwork job. Take a batten'
and bend it down around the outside of a frame amidships.
This distance, we will say, comes to 5 feet, and if you
decide 4 inches is as wide as you want the planking to be
there, it will require 15 planks. Don't make the common
error of wanting to do the job quickly, and try to use
planks a foot wide. Remember such a plank will shrink
and swell nearly twice as much as one 6 inches wide, and
not look well either; in fact, when you come to the turn
of the bilge you may have to reduce them to 3 inches,
putting in four planks 3 inches wide, instead of three of
them 4 inches wide.
^ Now bend the batten around the second frame from the
bow. Here you only have 2H feet, or 45 inches. Fifteen
planks in a space of 45 inches gives you a width of 3
inches for each plank at that end, and the widths aft are
found in the same way. In the same manner you could
divide the distance at each frame and find out how wide
the planks should be at every frame, but this is not
necessary.

It is not always possible to get planks to run full
length from end to end, and it is not necessary that they
should, although most amateurs with their first smattering
of knowledge on the subject imagine a well-built boat
should have no butts at all. As a matter of fact, a well-
made butt is the strongest part of the plank. Amateurs

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sometimes try to cut the planks so that the two ends both
land on a frame with only a width of about i]^ inches.
This is dead wrong. You can't toe-nail them both to the
same frame and expect them to hold. Cut them so that
they butt midway between the frames, and then fit a
"butt block," as it is called — a piece of i-inch or 114-inch
oak plank, so it jams snug between the frames, and about
3X-inch wider on each side than the planking, this gives a
little ledge to extend up behind the planks above and
below it, so as to steady it.

Do not let two butts come in line, one under the other.
"Break butts," as boatbuilders call it, by making the joint
in the next plank come two or three frames forward or
aft of the first one. There should be at least two planks
intervening between butts in the same fraiiie space. With
your "spile stafif," find the shape the top of the next plank
must be to fit the lower edge of the sheer strake, and with
this shape marked off on a plank you are going to cut it
out of, measure the widths 4 inches amidships, 3 inches
forward and, say, 2 inches aft, whatever it may be, and
sweep in a fair curve with a batten for the lower edge of
the plank. After working three or four planks down from
the top put some more on at the bottom, working toward
the middfe, until only one plank remains to be fitted. That
is known as the "shutter" plank, and its fitting in in ship-
yards used to be the signal for a drink from the boat-
builders. Old timers would predict all kinds of disasters
to the boat whose shutter was not "wet" to assist it in
Toing in. The boatbuilders got the "wet." You may feel
the joy that inspired this tradition when you realize that
that plank completes the job of planking; anyway, you'll
be happy and proud, too.

There used to be a great deal of mystery thrown about
the job of planking a boat. It does call for some skill, btit
the foreman who laid out the planking always took good
care to conceal the manner in which he did it.

The "planking scale" was 3 mystery in which none
were to be initiated, and the lucky man who could pry
into and understand the system at once became a power in
a boat shop.

It is laughable how instructors in boatbuilding, when
they come to a description of this subject fall down — as
the author of one book I have in my library remarks, when
he comes to describe planking: "I have never been able
to find anyone who could explain this operation so as to
make it clear, and doubt my own ability to do so, so will
Meave you to puzzle it out for yourself."

I don't want there to be any puzzle about' it, and so I
shall tell you here what the planking scale is, and tell you
how to use it on this boat. For the scale plane upa thin
slat of wood like a lath about an inch wide and 5^-inch
thick, and as long as the distance around the frame from
the top strake to the garboard. To use this scale, butt one
end against the top edge of the garboard or second strake,
if it is on, and tack it lightly. Then bend the scale around
the face of the midship frame, and mark where it touches
the lower edge of the sheer strake. That is the distance to
be planked, and as we have already decided our plank
shall be 4 inches wide at this point, mark that spot 4.
Then do the same forward, where we found the planks
were to be 3 inches wide. Mark that distance as 3 — the
great mystery consists of dividing that distanc'e between
3 and 4 into eight equal parts, and so making a scale on
the slat of wood. Continue those same, divisions up the
scale to about 2, and you have a planking scale (Figure
10). On the top strake, at the second frame, mark two as
the widths of all planks on that frame. To find the
width on each frame butt one end of this scale on the top
of the plank, on the bottom and where the lower edge of the
top strake crosses the scaled off part of your batten or
planking scale you can read the width of the plank from it.
The widths so marked show how wide each plank is to be
.on each frame.

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Another method for laying out a plank where you have
determined the widths of the two ends and middle as we
did at first is to strike a half circle, Figure 1 1, with a
radius of 4 inches, the greatest width we decided for our
plank. Measure up square to the base line to where the
curve is 3 inches high — that is, the widths of the planks
forward — and on the other side to where it is 2 inches.
Divide the remaining space into any number of equal parts
and you can measure the widths at these places and lay
them out at corresponding intervals on the plank you are
lining out on the board previous to cutting them out. This
will give you a true, iavr sweep for the other edge of the
plank.

The three or four short strakes of plank to form the

raised deck forward will be easy enough to any one who
can do the rest of the planking.

Each plank can be riveted up as it is put on. Punch
the nail in solid then, with one man holding a heavy
weight on against the head outside, another can get in-
side, put a copper "burr" — as the flat washers are called —
on the nail, punching it on with a short piece of either
brass or iron piping just big enough to go over the nail,
cut it off within about I /16-inch of the washer and rivet it
up. Don't hit it a couple of smashing blows, as that will
only buckle the nail in the wood. Take a light hammer
with a ball pene end, like a machinist's hammer, and tap
it all round the edge until it curls, or "burrs" over; then
hit it a couple of good taps in the center to expand it.

Plane of? the uneven seams and any hard spots that
may show on tlie planking, then go carefully all over
and test all loose looking knots, and punch them out.
Those with a black ring, which is a sort of bark, are the
loose ones.

Then you want a bung reamer, a tapered, gouge-shaped

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bitt, that will fit in a brace. Bore out all the black around
the knot hole until it shows clear wood. Whittle pine or
cedar plugs and drive them into these holes good and
tight, and then saw them off flush. The plugs that fill the
nail holes should be dipped into a shallow tin can cover
like a lard pail cover of thick white lead paint and tapped
in with a small hammer. Don't mash them in or they will
swell out again like a sponge.

The caulking of the planking comes next, and that, to
my mind, is really more difficult than to plank the boat;
that is, more difficult to tell the novice just how to do it,
because you can't specify how much cotton, as the ama-
teur seams are apt to be uneven in widths, and require a
little in one place and a lot in another. You want just to
fill the seam up tight and yet not jamb the planks apart. I
could tell better by sitting around and hearing the sound

of the caulking mallet how well or how badly it was being
done. The seams of the plank when put on should be
slightly wedge-shaped, with the opening on the outside.
Never fasten a plank on when the seam is wider inside
than it is out. The water pressure is all from the outside,
pushing on the cottop, and you want it to tighten as it is
pushed in, ^nd not to loosen.

The cotton should be driven in about a quarter of an
inch beyond the surface of the plank and after painting
with thin white lead paint over the cotton and allowing
this paint to set over night, fill these seams with putty.

Then smooth off the plank with a plane, sandpaper it
well across the grain and after painting over each knot
with shellac to keep the sap in the knot from discoloring
the paint, give the hull a prime coat of paint, either red
lead or white lead mixed thin, and then two coats of what-
ever color you like.

If you want to do a nice job after you have once
smoothed her all off, previous to painting, take a bucket of
hot water and a big sponge and go all over her planking,
soaking it well, and you will swell the grain and plugs,
and if you then smooth her off again she will not become
so rough due to the swelling when she is afloat for a few
days. Full directions for striking the water line when
painting will be found in the Motor Boat Handbook,
Vol. I.

The framework for the cabin top, such as the openings for
companionway slide and the skylight and the two hatches
on the after deck, should then be fitted, and the beams for
the eockpit floor fastened in place, but before these latter
are secured, -get out your motor foundation, notch it over
the heavy oak floors, and bolt it solidly in place.

If you have your motor it is a good plan to line it up
now, before you box the boat in with too many bulkheads
and other things. Get a plumber to m;ike you a lead
sleeve to go through the deadwood and flange it over at
each end and tack it fast into a good white lead bed on the
faces of the deadwood. Get out the mooring post for-
ward and the two towing posts aft, of sound, dry, sea-
soned oak. Locust is better, if you can get it. Fasten the
two after ones in and brace them under the beams, but
leave the mooring post, after fitting it, until you have laid
the j4-inch deck and stretched the canvas tightly over it.

First lay the deck, punch the nail heads in, plane down
the seams, putty all the holes, and give it a good, thick coat
of paint, and then stretch the canvas as tightly as you can.
Pull it and tack it all around on the outer edge of the
deck with copper tacks, and cover this edge, after it is
painted, with a varnished half round oak molding.

After the mooring bitt is put through the hole in the
deck turn the canvas up and tack it close around the bitt.
and the same with the skylight hatch frame ; screw it 'down
in white lead onto the canvas, and then turn the canvas up
around the inside of the hatch and tack it 'fast to prevent
leaking.

It is necessary to hold the boat in some other manner
when you come to finish the topsides, as the overhead
shores are in the way, so nail a couple of short blocks on
each side onto her plank, so the nails go into a frame and
brace up from the floor to these with shores.

The oak covering boards around the edge of the after-
deck are sawed out of i-inch oak, and the deck laid of
white pine planks i inch thick and 3 inches wide. Caulk
and putty this deck and then plane, sandpaper and give it
a coat of shellac.

For the coaming quartered oak should be used, or else
mahogany, if you decide to finish her off in that wood.
Fit the oak clock rails, as shown, forward and round off
the head of the stem, so if you go alongside of a larger
boat or up to a dock you do not have a sharp corner to
cut and dig into things.

The main bulkhead at the aften end of the cabin will
have to-be put up before you can put on the oak coamings

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and finish the cockpit. In fact, this would be the first job
to be done after the boat is planked, because you cannot
even lay the cabin top until the up and down staving form-
ing this bulkhead is complete. All this bulkhead stuff,
both for here, the forward end of the cabin, and for the
after end of the cockpit, can be of the same style of ma-
terial, that is, either white pine or cypress tongue and
groove staving, about 3 inches wide, with a bevel taken off
each edge, so they form a narrow V groove when fitted to-
gether. This is an easy style to clean up and to paint.
That is one reason why it iS so largely used on boats in
preference to any narrow scratch bead-work, which any
one who has ever tried to clean up on a boat will fight shy.
of in the future.

The inside of the boat, from this main bulkhead tt> the
stem, is ceiled up with the same material laid horizontal,
beginning up under the clamp, and working down to the
floor line. It is hardly necessary to teU one how to lay the
cabin floor, or how to build the plain, boxlike partitions
and cupboards which have been shown in the accompany-
ing plans for the dishes, stove rack, etc.

The transoms are constructed by simply putting up a
framework of about lyi x. 2-inch spruce, to give you the
shape desired, nailing a corresponding cleat on the floor
and then staving its sides up and down with the same
kind of staving. Some amateurs may prefer to cut a
wide, plain pine board and fit in her. It will do just as
well, and perhaps look as well as the staving that we have
shown. Make the seat tops of wide pine boards, so ar-
ranged that they can be taken up in sections, to get at the
space below the cushions, to store provisions and duffle.
The space forward of the mooring post has been bulk-
headed off and fitted with two little doors to be used as a
coat room, to hang up wet oilers, to lay sea boots away,
and to hang heavy coats. We have not used this as a
rope locker, as it is generally supposed to be used, but
prefer to keep our cable coiled down on deck around the
mooring post, and stopped to the deck with short pieces of
line in small eye-bolts, where it will dry out and not rot.
There remain two difficult things to be done about the
cabin top, and that is the construction of the companion
way slide and doors, and the skylight. To assist the novice
in constructing these I have shown detailed drawings of
these' two fittings. The subject of building the skylight
alone is one that could fill a book; in fact, in my ex-
perience in running shipyards, I have had as many as six
or eight boats a week come to the yard and their owners
plead with me to come out and make their skylights tight.
Any one who has done any amount of boating knows how
disagreeable a leaky skylight can become in wet weather.
For that reason be very careful in constructing this one, to
make all your joints tight, and try and get a little comfort
in Beaver. The companionway slide is comparatively sim-
ple, when you study out the accompanying detailed plan.
Oak chocks or saddles are to be fastened to the cockpit
floor where your seats are to be built, to accommodate the
cylindrical tanks, one on either side, one for fresh water
and the other for gasolene, as shown in the plans. When
these are in place, fasten the cleat that holds the after
end of the seat across that bulkhead, and on the after side
of the little square locker in the forward end of the cock-
pit put a corresponding cleat. Then build your seats of the
long, narrow slats as shown in the plan, held together by
cleats underneath these slats, but do not nail them fast at
the ends. Leave them so you can lift this slat seat right up
out' of place, so that you can get at your tank whenever
necessary by taking out a couple of screws.

On the after-deck get out two square oak frames of r-
inch square stuff, the size of the hatches you have formed
in the deck there and build two square covers out of about
j4-inch stuff, and for tightness sake, cover them with
canvas, held around the edges with a small half-round oak
molding arvf oaint them.

We have made no attempt in Beaver to make the cockpit
floor a water-tight one, because the floor level is only a
few inches above her load waterline, but if one prefers, he
could caulk it, and put lead pipe scuppers in the after cor-
ners, but if one does this, I would advise raising the cock-
pit a few inches higher than shown in the plans, so there
would be no danger of the water coming, back through the
scupper when the boat settles by the stern when running
hard.

The steering gear of Beaver is made as simple as it is
possible to make it, and is all get-at-able in case of a

breakdown. Sheaves set in oak chocks are bolted to the
deck, as shown, and the tiller ropes lead outside the coam-
ing on the port side, then in and over her steering wheel,
which is bolted to the after bulkhead between the box over
her engine and the locker on the side which enables a man
to steer either right-handed or left-handed.

It is hardly necessary to go further into the details of
building such a boat, as they are all of such minor impor-
tance that even a boy would know enough to go ahead and
complete the job, and we feel we have fully explained the
difficult parts, where the amateur would need some help.

OF BEAVER

Outboard Profile of the Nock Runabout

How to Build a 25-Foot Runabout

PART I.

BY FREDERIC S. NOCK

DIMENSIONS.

Length over all 26 feet, 9J^ inches.

Length, waterline 24 feet, inches.

Breadth, extreme 5 feet, inches.

Breadth, waterline 4 feet, 5J4 inches.

Draft to Rabbet feet, 11)4 inches.

THERE seems to be quite a demand for a small run-
about, something a man with some knowledge of
tools can build, and, when completed view his handi-
work with pride. Not only is there a great deal of
pleasure to be had running around in one of these craft,
but there is a certain charm and fascination in building
one, at least many men view it in that light. That such
a diversion should appeal to the younger boys is rather
to be expected, but as I look around and find many of
the older boys who spend the day in their office, devot-
ing all their leisure moments building a boat in some
barn or shed, I cease to be surprised at the demand for
articles on the building of small boats, even in spite of
the great number of plans that are illustrated and de-
scribed in the different magazines devoted to the sport.
The building of boats by amateurs is by no means
confined to very small craft, as I can recall to mind four
boats that are being built in the vicinity of Providence,
by amateurs at the present time, all of them being over
32 feet in length. Some of them have been started re-
cently, others were started long ago, and some are far
from being finished at the present time. With one ex-
ception,' the boats are being built throughout by the
owners with assistance, at times, of their friends. The
exception had the frame gotten out for him and shipped
K. D., which means knocked down or taken apart be-
fore being shipped. Another point which shows a de-
cided step in the right direction is that the boats in
question were all designed by competent men, and are
not a sample of the old rule of thumb type.

The average man who wants a 22 or 25-footer is by
no means satisfied to consider a boat with a speed of
6 to 7 miles an hour, even though he wants a family boat.
A few years ago when a man wanted plans for a family
boat it was supposed to be something very wide and
comfortable, that looked as though it would be impos-
sible to capsize, and, needless to say, it was usually very
slow. Nowadays when a man wants a family boat of
25 feet in length he is quite apt to give the designer a
decided jolt by stating that he must have a speed of
12 to 16 miles-, and he is pretty apt to get it. I don't
mean to infer by this that he has a boat of the length
mentioned, carries a Sunday School class in the boat, and
drives her at the required speed, but he can have a boat
that with three or four persons on board can make the re-

quired speed and not require an engine of excessive horse-
power. At the same time the boat would be capable of accom-
modating some ten or more persons with perfect safety.
The speed mentioned is not by any means the limit of
a 25-foot boat as 24 or more miles an hour can be ob-
tained, but the power plant is usually something that
plays quite an important part, and you cannot very well
expect to obtain such a high rate of speed with a 10 or
20-hp. engine, no matter how light an engine you may
procure.

The boat I am going to call your attention to, and
try to explain how to construct, is designed to carry a
small engine weighing between 600 and 650 pounds.
You can procure an engine of from 5 to 50 hp. that will
not exceed the weight in question, and thus the power
question ought to suit the most exacting.

The plans show the boat without a skeg to protect
the propeller, etc., but I have also shown the same keel
with a shoe and skeg for those who may prefer same.
If you are looking for speed, don't use the skeg as it
simply means increased wetted surface and consequently
more resistance.

Many of you fully understand how to "lay down" the
lines, but for the benefit of those who are not initiated
into the mysteries and want to start at the beginning, 1
will try and explain the operation in as simple a man-
ner as I know how. In the first place it means the re-
production of the lines full size on the floor, or what-
ever you draw them upon. I shall have to presume that
you have a barn or suitable building in which you intend
to build this boat; if not, and you have to rent one, select
a place that has a fairly smooth floor and " plenty of
light. Clear a place on the floor about 27 feet in length,,
and five or six feet in width. If the building does not
possess a floor or it is in poor condition, you can make
up a board large enough to draw the lines on, using
spruce or hemlock boards, cleated together on the under-
side.

It is advisable to work from the base line, and this you-
can put in near the edge of the board, make a mark
at either end, then with a chalk line stretched taut and
snapped, you should have a straight line through the
two points in question, but as chalk is very easily erased
it is advisable to mark over this line with a pencil. Select
a board that is true and straight along the edge, and
use this for a straight edge to draw in the pencil line.
This line is the base line and all the heights given on
the laying down tables are above the base line. Parallel
to this line and two feet above same, strike in another
line, mark over it with pencil to prevent it being easily
erased. This corresponds to L. W. L. (load waterline)
on the plan. Above this line (L. W. L.) at intervals of

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5 inches, you can draw three more lines parallel to the Dase-
11 ne and counting from the L. W L. mark them VV lines,
I, 2, and 3, above, which means above the L. W. L.
There are still two more lines to be drawn parallel to
those mentioned, and they are W. line iB and W line 2B.
W. line iB is 3 inches below the L. W. L. and 2B is 3
inches below iB Draw these lines in the same manner
as the others, and mark them m their proper order so
that you will not make any mistakes. Begin at the right
hand side of the baseline and with a square draw a line
perpendicular to the base line, and about 4^2 feet in
height, measure i foot to the left and draw another line
parallel to the first, then at intervals of 2 feet draw 12
more lines all perpendicular to the base line, and, of
course, parallel to each other

' Begninmg with the second one from the right, mark
this No. o. the next No. 2, the next No, 4, and so on
corresponding to the stations on the plans, and perhaps
It vvould be as well while you are putting in these
lines 10 draw another line between stations o and 2, and
also 22, and 24, numbering them i and 23 respectively ,
then you will have just as many stations on the board
as is shown on the plans. Now if you will consult the
laying down tables, you will note that the upper line of
the table proper gives the heights (above the base line)
of the sheer at the different stations, mark these points on
the perpendicular lines, taking great care to have the
right measurement. Drive a small bung head wire nail
at each point, then take a batten about % inch square
and 27 feet long, one made from a good, clear, straight
grained piece of stock — yellow pine is as good as any-
thing as it will bend fair and true — spring this batten up
to the nails, marking the points and keep the batten in
position by driving nails in the board on the opposite
side of the batten. Sight carefully along the edge and

see that it is a nice, fair curve; if there are any short
kinks in it move the batten until it shows fair and tni^
and then with your pencil draw in the sheerline, which
represents the height to the top of the phanksheer.

The next line shown on the tables is the rabbet line.
You can proceed- to put in the points for this line in the
same manner as you did the points for the sheer, and
when your points are all marked, spring your batten to
same and mark the rabbet line. You will undoubtedly
find that the batten you have been using for the sheer-
line IS too strong to make the curve at the forward
end of the rabbet line where the stem connects with the
keel, and, therefore, in order to put this in it will be
found necessarv to have a much lighter batten. Procure
one about 3-16x5/2 inch and if you get one about 5 feet
long, you can use it for the curves of the body sections.
In order to complete the rabbet line to the sheerline,
you will have to mark the distance the rabbet line is
from the point of measurement on the plans, and detail
of stem. Mark each of these and continue the line to
the sheer, taking due care to have it fair and you can-
proceed in a similar manner to put in the line representing
the keel bottom, taking the rrieasurements from the tables.
The face of the stem is a continuation of the keel bot-
tom and you can get the measurements of same from
the plans, or the separate drawing of the stem. Draw this
line in the same manner as you did the rabbet line. If
you want to put in sections 9 inches and 18 inches out,
you can do so. although you will not derive a great deal
of benefit from same.

The next thine is the waterlines. The table shows the
half breadths at the different stations, beginning with
the sheer. As the amount of space you have is limited,
you can use the baseline as the centerline and mark
in the waterlines in practically the same manner as you

LAYING DOWN TABLES FOR LINES N°2I0

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did the rabbet line ot.' the elevation, using the strong
batten where possible and the lighter batten for the short
curves. Be sure and see that all the curves are fair
before you draw the line, and in doing this, while it
takes more time, it will save you lots of trouble and
worry later on.

The waterlines do not come to a point at the stem,
being 3-16 inch out from the centerline. This applies
to all the waterlines and if you will bring them to this
point, you will find the advantage of doing so when you
start to make the stem, as each of these lines can be re-
ferred to. The body sections should next claim your at-
tention. Use either of the center stations, p. iferably No.
12, as the centerline and put in the diagonal lines A,
B, and C, as shown on the plans. The tables show that
diagonal A intersects the perpendicular 2 feet above the
baseline and the baseline 2 feet out, therefore, you can
measure up on the centerline 2 feet and you will find that
tiie L. W. L. crosses at that point. Measure out on the base-
line 2 feet either side of the centerline and then draw a line
through the points on either side and you have diagonal A,
Diagonal B intersects perpendicular 2 feet 6 inches above
baseline and baseline 3 feet 6 inches out. The point
(in the centerline will be where W. line lA crosses the
perpendicular. Measure out 3 feet 6 inches along the
baseline either side of the centerline, draw a Une through
the points on either side and you have diagonal B.
Diagonal C intersects the perpendicular 3 feet above the
baseline and the L.W.L. 2 feet 9 inches out. The point
of intersection with the centerline is where W. line 2B
crosses same, and if you mark a point on the waterline
the required distance out and then draw a line through
the points, you have diagonal C.

It is advantageous to work to the measurements on
the diagonals wherever possible for most of them cut the
body sections at a less acute angle than the waterlines,
especially the lower ones. Where the waterlines or any
line intersects another at an acute angle, there is liable
to be a chance of making a slight variation in the meas-
urement.

Referring to the tables, you will note the half breadths
as given for the sheer, and waterlines. Start with sec-
tion No. 12, mark off the points on the different water-
lines, then the diagonals. The height of sheer is already
marked on the board so that all you will have to do will
be to get the half breadth of the sheer and mark this
on the point representing the height. There is still an-
other point required before you can draw the section and
that is the one representing the rabbet line. You al-
ready have the height marked on the board. Draw a
line at right angles to the centerline cutting the rabbet-
line on station No. 12, and then refer to the half breadth
plan of the keel for the width of the rabbet at this sec-
tion and mark this point. You can also draw in two lines
on either side of the centerline. one 9 inches out, the
other 18 inches out. These lines represent the sections

9 and 18 inches out, in a line fore and aft, and used
to be called bow and buttock lines. By using these lines
and marking on same the heights at different stations, it
will allow of your having a greater number of points

Fig. 6. Mold, Showing Cleats and Cross Pawl.

to draw your line through that which represents the body
section. Use the light batten, bend to the points, keeping
the batten in position in the same manner as you did for
the rabbet and waterlines. Ascertain that it is fair and
true and draw the line.

You must bear in mind that the lines as laid down are
to the outside of the planking and if you prefer to lay
down the body sections the molded size, or the size of
the inside of the plank, you will have to take off 7-16
inch (the thickness of the plank) all around the inside
of the curve. You can please yourself whether you lay
down the lines as shown, or draw them in to the molded
size. If you prefer the latter method, you can do so by
setting a pair of compasses to the required dimensions,
7-16 inch, set the spur leg against the inside of the
batten and with the pencil end, draw the line 7-16 inch
inside of the batten; take particular care to keep the
spacing an equal distance away from the batten the en-
tire length of the curve.

Draw in all the body sections you require, and you
can proceed to finish the lines, for while you have com-
pleted them as far as the lines shown on the plan are
concerned, you still lack some very important lines, such
as the inside of the stem, the upper side of the keel,
transom knee, line of shaft, etc. These you can obtain
from the construction plan and the detail drawing of
the stem, transom, etc. It is also advisable to draw in
the scarf of the stem and keel, also the transom knee.

Having completed the drawing to your satisfaction, you
can proceed to get out the molds. Hemlock, spruce, pine,
or any such material that is not expensive is suitable.
If you want to make molds for each of the sections you
will require about no feet of J^-inch stock. The prac-

Fig. 12. Stocks, with Keel, Stem, etc., Set Up on Them.

tical builder iS not apt to space the molds every two
feet apart, but would in all probability use molds Nos.
I, 4, 8, 12, i6, 20 and 23, setting them in their proper
places. If you adopt this method, you had better use
battens a trifle heavier than you would use if your molds
were spaced 2 feet apart.

Take some small wire nails, with large heads, lay
the head of the nails on the lines, points directed toward
the center of the body sections. These nails should be
placed at intervals of 2j^ to 3 inches, tap them with a
hammer to hold them in position and then on top of
same press one of the pieces of wood you intend to use
for a mold. When you raise the piece you will note that
there are a number of small dents made by the nail heads.
These represent the points of the curve, and if you use
your batten and draw a line through the points, you
have a reproduction of the mold. Saw to the line, fair
with a plane or spokeshave and then mark on another
piece of board a duplicate of same, and you will have
the two halves of one of the molds. You should bear
in mind that you will need some marks to go by when
setting up t^ese molds, therefore, it is advisable to draw
the L. W. L. and the sheerline on same. If you have
the use of a band or jig saw, you can save time by
fastening the first piece of wood, with the shape marked
thereon, to another piece, and saw them both out at the
same time.

Fasten the mold together, using a piece of stock about
2 inches wide for the cross pawl, and as a guide you
would do well to make the upper edge of the cross
pawls on a line with the mark representing the sheer.
Carefully measure the completed mold in order to ascer-
tain that the widths at the sheer and waterlines are cor-
rect. If you cannot get stock wide eiiough to make the
halves of each mold m one piece, you will have to join
them, and the simplest method of doing this is to biitt
the joints together and cleat them. (See Fig. No. 6.)

Place the cleats well in from the edges, and nail a
piece of stock across the lower part of molds in order to
have something to fasten them to the keel. Make all
the molds up, measuring each one carefully to see that
they are exactly the same dimensions as the full-size
drawing.

You may begin to think that there is a lot of unneces-
sary measuring, marking of lines across the molds, etc.,
but I can assure you that if you have a number of points,
it will help you check the molds when they are in posi-
tion and show the least error.

The practical man can tell at a ' glance whether the
molds are all fair, but this does not always apply to
the amateur. After you have completed your molds, you
can proceed to get out the stem. It is to be of oak or
hackmatack and if you can secure a natural crook large
enough to make the stem and knee in one piece it is to
your advantage to do so, otherwise you will have to
' make it up of two pieces as per plans.

The specifications call for the stem to be sided 2J/2
inches, (or, in other words, it is to be 23/2 inches from one
side to the other, not from the face to the after side).
It is a good plan to get out a template of the stem, and
mark on same the rabbet line, and then after cutting the
stem to the required shape you can mark on one side
the shape of the rabbet, reverse the template and mark
the rabbet on the opposite side. One of the simplest meth-
ods of doing this is to bore a series of holes through
the. rabbet line on the template and then with a drill or
awl reproduce these points on the stem, bend a batten
and draw a line through these points and you have the
rabbet line.

If' you make the stem up of two pieces fasten them
together with 5-16-inch bolts, heads to be riveted over
washers, or you can draw it together with nuts and bolts

if you prefer. The heads should be well countersunk
and covered with wood plugs.

Draw a centerline down the face of the stem and 3-16
inch on either side draw lines. Fasten the stem in some
manner as in a vise and then proceed to trim from the
rabbetline to the line 3-16 inch from the centerline of

Fig. 5. Stem, with Dimensions Marked Thereon

face. Continue to where waterline 2B crosses the stem,
trim both sides and this will leave the face of the stem
}i inches in width. Below the point mentioned (inter-
section of W. line 2B with face of stem) the width of
the face increases until it is about i>^ inches wide where
the stem or knee joins the forward end of the keel.
Fasten the stem down to your bench so as to allow
you to get at it handily and proceed to cut the rabbet.
A fid is used by some builders as a template for cut-
ting the rabbet to the required depth and bevel. As
the bevels on the sides of the stem of this craft are
fair with the plank to a point just below waterline
2B you can easily see how the rabbet would require
to be cut by trying a piece of wood of the thickness of
the plank, 7-16 inch, and cutting in the stem until it
sets flush with the side of stem at the rabbet line, and
on the same bevel as the sides of the stem forward of
the rabbet line. If you want to get this down to the fine
point, you will have to refer to the full-size drawing of
the boat: You will note that the plank at the sheer in-
tersects the stem at a certain angle and that the intersec-
tion of each of the water lines is' of a different angle.
Make a template showing these bevels and then cut out
the rabbet at these points to correspond to the bevels
you have taken, them trim and fair the intervening
spaces and you will find that your rabbet is cut correctly.
It is not a good plan to carry your rabbet clear to the
lower end of the stem or knee until it is fastened to
the keel, for by finishing it afterwards you can be more
sure of it being fair.

When you have finished the stem set it to one side
and get out the keel. Select a good piece of oak about

Fig. 8. Section Through Stem at Sheer and at L.W.L.

Pig. 10. Showing Method of Constructing Curve for Beams

24 feet in length, 6 inches wide, planed to ij4 inches in
thickness. Draw a hne through the center and then with
a square mark the position of the different stations. Figure
4 shows the half breadths to the rabbet of the keel at the
different stations, set these off on either side of the center-
line, then spring a batten to the different points and draw
the line, taking care that the line cuts the points, /ou
will then have the shape of the underside of the keel and
as the upperside is ^ inches wider than the rabbet line
on either side, you can mark same, and cut to this line,
using a band saw if it is available. Smooth the edges
and then cut out the rabbet, which is ^ of an inch up.
If you can get this cut on a circular saw or molding
machine, it will save you time, as it is rather a tedious
job chipping it out with a chisel and mallet. 'The rabbet
at the after end and well forward of station No. 12 is
practically square, but it begins to have a decided bevel
the nearer you get to the stem. If you want to know
just how much this bevel is at each of the stations you
can mark out on the full-sized drawing the thickness of
the plank next to the keel and take the bevels off same.
The upper edge of the keel is to be well rounded on the
edges as per Figure 9 and in doing this it will enable
you to make the frames bend nice and fair where thev
cross the 'keef. Cut the keel to the required length, shape
the after end to fit the transom knee, the forward end to

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<Scctioai at SrAr/ev*/g

Fig. g. Section Through Keel at Stations No. 6 and 12

fit the stem, and the keel is ready for setting up on the
form.

The knee for the transom is to be of oak or hackmatack,
preferably the latter, as it is lighter. It is to be sided
three inches and cut to shape as shown on plans-. Draw
a line through the center of the after side and trim to the
same bevel as the transom, and ttien on either side of the
centerline ^ inch out, draw another line which will repre-
sent the rabbet line ; on either side of the knee parallel
to the face draw a line the thickness of the plank for
transom and cut the rabbet, (see Figure 11). This knee,
when you have finished the rabbet for the transom, can be
fastened to the keel with 5-16-inch bolts riveted over
washers. Take care that you do not get any bolts through
the knee where they would be likely to interfere with the
rudder port. Before proceeding any further with the
framework for the boat it would be as well to make up

the stocks to hold the boat while being constructed. For
the form of the keel you can take a piece of spruce plank
2 inches in thickness, about 10 inches wide and 25 feet
in length. Mark on same the shape of the keel bottom,
and the stations, saw to th6 line, square the edge where
the keel will set on same, and set this form up on posts
made of 2x3 or 2x4-inch. spruce.

The bottom of the keel should be about 2>4 feet above
fhe floor so that in planking the boat, you will have ample
room to work under it. Strike a line on the floor and set
the posts to this line, at either end of the form cutting the
posts at such a height that the distance from the floor to
the upper edge of the form at stations Nos. 2 and 23 are
proportionately the same height above the floor a,s they
would be above the baseline.

Perhaps it will simplify matters for you if you make a
mark on these posts representing the baseline and measure
up from same to the top of the mold and the height at
the different stations would be the same as is given in the
table of heights above baseline to keel bottom. Of course,
you must make sure that the line representing the baseline
is i>erfectly level irrespective of the floor as you will un-
doubtedly work from the Hne.

About 5 posts in all would be enough to support this
boat. Brace them in both directions so that they will be
perfectly rigid. (See Fig. 12.) Sight along the upper side
of mold to ascertain that it is straight and you can proceed
to get the keel ready to fasten to same. Fasten the stem
to the keel with 5-16-inch bolts riveted over washers.
The keel can be fastened to the form with long screws
placed about 2 feet apart. Put washers under the screw
heads and this will enable you to draw the keel down to
the shape of the form without pulling the hpads into the
wood. Plumb the stem and with staylaths fasten to the
rafters in order to hold it in position, plumb the transom
knee and secure by staylaths in the same manner as the
stem. Before you proceed any further, it would be advisa-
ble to check the keel, etc., in order to ascertain whether
the centerline is straight.

We will assume that you have Set the stem and the
transom knee plumb, so you can take 'an awl or small nail,
drive it in the centerline at the head of the stem and an-
other in the centerline at the head of the transom knee,
stretch a strong line or piano wire from one to the othe'jr,
then take your plumb bob and drop a line from same.
If the point of the bob intersects the centerline of the keel
at either end or in fact anywhere along the line you can
rest assured that the centerline of the keel is straight.

If you have laid out on the floor the centerline of the
shaft you can now transfer it to the keel and bore the
hole as it can be done more readily before the molds or
frames are in place. Having finished boring the hole
you can turn your attention to the finishing of the rabbet-
line on the lower end of the stem where it connects with
the keel, and unless you have already done so, it is well to
fair the rabbetline at the forward end of the keel. The
forward sections intersect the keel at an acute angle,
which diminishes as you work aft. The bevel of the
rabbt^line at any station can be taken from the lines laid
down on the floor. Some builders will not finish trim-
ing the rabbet on keel until the molds are in position and
use them as a guide for the bevels, but you will not save
any time by adopting this method. The transom should
be gotten out and fastened to the knee before you set up

the molds. Select a nice clear piece of white pine H
inch thick, large enough to make both sides.

TftANSOM f^ANK

/9f

Fig. II. Section Through Knee, Showing Angle

Mark out the shape as per plan showing half ot the
transom (Fig. 13) cut out two pieces, one for either side.
The dimensiotis given on the drawing are taken from the
center of the knee, and as there is a half inch of stock
on either side of the knee where the transom plank sets
into the rabbet, you will have to take off a half inch from
both of the pieces. Carefully trim and fair the edges,

then mark on the inside of both pieces the shape of the
mside of the plank at this point. Now mark another line
around the edge where the plank will be fastened to same,
this line to be about % inch in from the afterside. Cut
from the line on the forward side of these pieces to the
line on the edge. By having the y& inch of stock at the
alter edge, you will have olenty of material to calk to
when you calk the ends of the plank, and will not have
the inconvenience of breaking out little pieces along the
edge as so often happens with the amateur if the edges
of the transom are brought to a knife edge.

The frame, or check pieces, which are to be fastened
to the forward side of the transom, should be made of
oak about 1% inches wide and ^ inches thick. They
need not be in one piece and can be made up in sections
if you desire. See that they are trimmed to the right
shape and the edges bevelled to the right angle so that
Uie inner side of the plank will set fair against same
The bevels can be obtained from the full-size drawing by
takinc the angle at which the waterlines meet the transom,
f-asten the cheek pieces securely in position and then you
can fasten the two pieces of the transom plank to the
knee. Ascertain that they are set in the right position,
and then measure out from the centerline of the keel to
some point on either side oi the transom ; this will show
you whether transom is true with the centerline of the keel
When you have it in the right position, fasten well with
staylaths to prevent it from getting out of shape

Part II

DIMENSIONS.

Length, over all 25 feet, 9J^ inches.

Length, waterline 24 feet, inches.

' Breadth, extreme 5 feet, inches.

Breadth, waterline 4 feet, 5!4 inches.

Draft to Rabbet feet, W^i inches.

YOU can then proceed to set up the molds, starting
amidship or at either end. Set all molds forward
• of station No. 12, so that the forward edges are on
the marks representing the stations, and those aft of sta-
tion No. 12 so that the after edges are on the lines repre-
.senting the stations. The reason for this is occasioned by
the fact that the boat diminishes in breadth fore and aft
of the station named and the edges of the molds beirig
square would not admit of the shape of the hull being
the same as the design. If you placed the center of the
molds over the line representing the stations it would
carry the forward edge of the mold forward of the sta-
tions from the stem to the amidship station, and vice versa
from that point aft, which would increase the size. of the
sections. You could bevel all the molds if you desired,
but in order to do this you would have to go to a lot of
unnecessary labor.

Fasten the molds to the keel with screws, plumb the face
of mold and also plumb the centerline, and when you are
sure that it is in the correct position fasten with stay-
laths to the rafters Set up all the molds in this manner,
and before you put on any battens go carefully over each
mold to avoid any possible mistake. Stretch the chalk line
from end to end in a line with the L.W.L., then go care-
fully over each mold to ascertain that the L.W.L. marked
on same is nnt above or below the chalk line.

If correct, you can proceed to put on the battens. These
can be made of either spruce or yellow pine. If the latter,
make them about i^ inches square, and long enough to
reach from the stem to the transom; if of spruce, about
i^ inches square. Get clear stock so that they will bend
fair. Start with the upper batten, which you should place
so that the lower edge touches the marks representing
the sheerline, .fasten the forward end in the rabbet of the
stem with a screw, bend carefully around the moldfe and
fasten to each one until you get to t\\r last two molds, and
before fastening to them cut the end of the batten so that
it will fit the rabbet of the transom; after fastening this
batten you should put in the upper batten on the opposite
side. The battens should be spaced about 9 inches apart
at the largest section or station, No. 12, and about equi-
distant at the other molds, etc.

If, by any chance, you find that the rabbet on the stem
or transom is not cut to the correct bevel you should trim
it fair before you fasten the batten. I should suggest
that you put two battens close together at a point above
six inches out from the keel on either side, or else use a
batten a trifle heavier than the others on accoui ' of the
extra strain in making the short bend in the fra les afteri
they have crossed the keel. You will save considerable
time when you start to bend the frames into the battens
if you will mark on the keel, the upper batten, and one of
the battens near the turn of the bilge, the position of the
frames, as it will save you making a number of measure-
ments.

The specifications call for frames 5^ x f^ inches, spaced
6 inches center to center, and to be continuous from sheer

100

to sheer from station No. 6 aft. You will need some good
clear white oak. The butts of young trees furnish the best
stock and they should be free from knots and straight
grained.

Unless you have a steam box you will have to make one
to steam the frames in before you can bend them in the
boat. I know of instances where the frames have been
bent to the required shape after being immersed in a
trough of hot water, but the making of a steam box is a
simple matter and as the longest frame will not be more
than 9 feet long, allowing for a surplus on either side, you
can get along very well with a box about 12 to 14 inches
square and 10 feet long. Use spruce or pine, and make
the joints tight, either by putting in strips of flannel laid
in white lead or calk the seams with cotton. The latter
method is preferable. Close up one end, and make a door
for the other end. It is quite immaterial how you procure
the steam for the box. You can use an old iron kettle
or wash-boiler, or anything of that description that will be
suitable fqr boiling a quantity of water in. Pipe from
the kettle or boiler to the under side of the steam box.
The steam does not want to be dry and hot, but should
be wet, and in order to obtain the best results you will
not need to have a great amount of heat under the boiler,
simply enough to keep generating steam. Put a number of
frames in the box and steam for 10 minutes ; take out one
of the frames and see if it bends easily ; if so, you can
start to bend in the frames, otherwise you will have to
give them more time to get thoroughly saturated with the
steam.

You will find that the bending in of the frames is a
mighty slow job unless you can get some one to help you
in handling them. Take one of the frames and start to
bend it inside of the battens. You will find that it readily
takes the required shape, and if you have someone to help
you he can nail the frames to the inside of the battens as
you bend them in. The frame should be Sprung over the
keel and first fastened to the strong or double batten next
to the keel, and then work outward and up. Use small
common wire nails to fasten the frames to the battens,
as they will have to be taken out when you remove the
battens. The frames, where they cross the keel, should be
fastened with galvanized iron nails in preference to cop-
per, as they are much stronger. If you prefer to use
copper, get the hard nails for this part of the work, for
while they will easily drive through the frame while it is
wet and pliable, they will not drive easily into the oak
keel.

I should suggest that you start putting in the frames at
the largest sections, and by doing so you will have ac-
quired the knack of bending them, and gained some ex-
perience before you start the bending of the frames at the
after end where the topsides "tumble home." Frames
forward of Station No. 6 do not cross the keel, and the
heels of the same will have to be cut to fit properly, and
the same thing applies to the frames in the wake of the
stem and knee. The heels of these frames must be well
fastened to the keel or stem.

When you have finished putting in all the frames, you
can get out the she'erstrakes. If you are going to finish
the sheerstrakesin natural wood varnished, you had bet-
ter use either oak or mahogany. The latter material is
called for in the specifications. The thickness is to be 7-16,
inch. Procure a board long enough to extend from the
stem to the transom in one piece, if possible, and if you
intend to use mahogany there should be no difficulty in ob-
taining boards of the requisite length.

In order to get the shape of the sheerstrake you will
need a staff or spiling batten, and this can be made from a
piece of pine, cedar or spruce about ^ inch thick, 8 inches
wide and long enough to extend from end to end. or you
can fasten two pieces together to make the required length.
Take this spiling batten and bend around the outside of the

frames below the line representing the sheer. If the sec-
ond batten from the top is in the way, it can be removed
without fear of disturbing the frames. See that the spiling
batten lies flat and close to the frames, and don't try to
spring it edgewise. Fasten it temporarily in position with
clamps or small brads, then mEifk on- the battens at each
mold a line corresponding to the stations. Take your
compasses, set them open a trifle wider than the greatest
distance between the edge of the spiling batten and the
sheerline on the molds and at each of these places sweep
in a segment of a circle on the batten, cutting the vertical
lines corresponding to the stations

Remove the spiling batten, and using same as a guide
you can proceed to mark out the sheerstrake by proceeding
as follows : Place the spiling batten on the piece of wood
you intend to use for the sheerstrake, leaving the upper
edge far enough away from the edge of the board to make
sure that you will have room enough to get the proper
curve without going beyond the edge of the board;- take
your compasses and set them open to about the same dis-
tance as you used when marking the arcs or segments of
a circle on the spiling batten, set the spur leg on the points
where the arc crosses the straight line and draw a seg-
ment of a circle on the board. Repeat this at each place
you have marked, and then cut the arcs on the board with
a line carried through the straight line on the spiling bat-
ten. Remove the spiling batten and take one of the bat-
tens you used in laying down the lines, bend to the points
where the right lines cross the arcs and when you have it
so that it cuts all the points draw a line through them,
cut the board to this line and you have the shape of the
upper edge of the sheerstrake. The shape of the lower
edge is easily obtained, but you must first determine the
width you desire to have this sheerstrake. It should not
be more than 4j4 inches at the widest place, which would
be between stations No. 12 and No. 14. I would suggest
that you make it 4 inches wide at Station No. 12, 3 inches
at Station No. 2 and 3^ inches at Station No. 23. Mark
these widths on the board you have cut for the sheerstrake,
measuring from the finished edge, and then, with a strong
batten bent to the required shape, draw a line cutting the
points you have marked, which will produce a fair curve,
saw and plane to line and you have the shape of the sheer-
strake.

Yoii will need a duplicate of this for the opposite side
and you can lay same on the board that you intend to
use for the other side, mark around it, and cut to shape.
Take one of these strakes and proceed to set in position
preparatory to fastening, bring the upper edge to within
half an inch of the sheerline, for, as before mentioned,
this line represents the top of the planksheer, which is to
be half an inch in thickness; use your clamps to hold it in
place, fit the forward end in the rabbet of stem and fasten
with brass screws

The fastenings in the frames are to be copper nails and
the round wire nail would be the best. Sink the heads of
the fastening into the planking deep enough to allow for
covering them with wood plugs. Put one fastening through
each frame at the upper and lower edges alternately ; there
are more fastenings to go through the sheerstrake and
frames when the clamps and sill are fitted in.

When you have fastened the sheerstrake to within about
3 feet of the transom, you should cut the end of the plank
so that it will fit nicely into the rabbet. Take your time
in doing this, for if you cut it too short you will spoil the
sheerstrake. When fitted, fasten with brass screws and
finish fastening the other frames. Repeat this operation
with the sheerstrake on the opposite side, and after put-
ting on the burrs and riveting the fastenings you can
give your attention to the garboard, such being the name
of the plank next to the keel.

To obtain the shape of the garboard you will have tc
proceed in much the same manner as you did when get

101

ting out the shape of the sheerstrake. In this case, how-
ever, you will work from the rabbet in keel instead of the
marks on the upper part of the molds. A great deal more
care is required to fit a garboard properly than a sheer-
strake, as it is absolutely necessary that it should fit the
rabbet in the keel very closely. Take your spiling batten,
or if you -have some more material of about the same
thickness use that in preference to the spiling batten, for if
you trim same to fit the rabbet as I am going to suggest,
you are apt to spoil the batten. Take the spiling batten
or a piece of wood of about the same dimensions and bend
to the frames close to the keel; put on this batten some
marks corresponding to the molds or other marks that you
put on the keel, taking due care that the marks are at
right angles to the keel, then take your compass, open them
a trifle wider than the greatest distance from the rabbet
to the edge of the batten, and, keeping the spur leg in the
corner of the rabbet, draw a series of arcs across the right
lines you have drawn on the batten. When you work to-
ward the forward end where the rabbet on the keel con-
nects with the rabbet on the stem, you will need to make
the right lines close together in order to get the correct
shape at this sharp turn. When you have got all the
points properly marked remove the batten, and then, after
drawing a line through the points, cut it to the required
shape and fit it to the rabbet. If there are any places that
need trimming, you can readily see where to pare, and
unless you have made a poor job of taking the spiling or
else not trimmed the batten carefully, you will have but
very little work to make the batten fit nicely into the rab-
bet. When properly fitted, you can mark out the shape of
the lower edge of the garboard on the piece of plank you
intend to usfe for thi's purpose. The shape of the other
edge is dbtained in practically the same manner as you
did the •tower edge of the sheerstrake.

As each builder has his own ideas regarding the width
of the garboard, either amidship or at the after end, and
how far up on the stem he will have the forward end,
it is scarcely worth while trying to set down any rule for
this. You will not be very far astray if you make the gar-
board about 6 inches wide at Station No. 6, 5 inches at
Station No. 2, and 5 inches at ihe transom. These dimen-
sions need not be followed exactly, but should be kept in
about the same ratio.

I will assume that you have learned, by this time, that
the edge of the planks, whether garboard or any other
strake, should be a fair curve. When you have one of
the garboards cut to shape and planed fair and true on
the edges, you can draw a duplicate of same on a piece of
board for the garboard on the opposite side, and then you
can proceed to fasten in position the one you have al-
ready fitted However, before you do so, it is necessary
to put stopwatbrs in the joints where the stem connects
with the keel. Bore a hole }i inch diameter through the
joint in the rabbet, and fill same with a soft pine plug.
This will prevent the water working through the joint
when the garboard seam is calked ; also put a stopwater
through the joint at the after end of the keel, and transom
knee. You will probably find it necessary to steam the
forward end of the garboard, as there is considerable twist
to it. There is no need to steam more than S or 6 feet of
the forward end.

When you have it well saturated 'fit the forward end in
the rabbet, taking special care to have it come in the same
position as it was when you took the spiling and fitted it.
Tasten with brass screws, spacing them about 3^4 inches
apart until well around the curve at the forward end. Fas-
ten the upper edge of the plank to the frames with copper
-nails, first countersmking for the head. The fastenings in
the lower edge are to go through the keel above the rabbet,
-one fastening to go through the keel and each frame, and
one through the keel between each of the frames. When
boring for the fasaenings, take care to have the hole

through the center of the frame. The frames that cross
thfe keel will not touch the center of the garboard, it simply
bears in the rabbet and on the outer edge, and inasmuch
as there should be one fastening at each frame through
the center of the garboards if they are made the width
suggested, or wider, and it will be necessary to cut some
wedge-shaped pieces of wood to fit between the frames and
plank at these points before you rivet them, otherwise
when you riveted the nails you would draw the center of
the plank out of shape. The garboard on the opposite side
can be fastened in position, and you should bear in mind
that the upper edge of the forward end ought to be in a
direct line across the stem from the one on the opposite
side.

Before getting 6ut or putting on any more of the lower
planks, it would be well to fit the keelsons and fasten them
in position, as you can do this so much easier at this time
than after the planking is in position; but in order to set
the keelsons it will be necessary to remove the molds, and
before you do that you had better put on three or four
strakes on either side below the sheerstrake. so as to bind
the frame together, and make sure that it will not change
its shape when the molds are removed.

In order to find out the widths of the strakes you must
first determine how many planks you will have on either
side. Start with the frame that has the greatest distance
between the edge of the garboard and the sheerstrake,
and space out the planks on same. The widest, planks
should be nearest the keel and the narrowest ^t the turn
of the bilge. If you made the garboard 6 inches wide at
the frame you are measuring on, you could space off 5>4
inches for the next plank, then 4>4, 4j4> 4. and the balance
about 3J^ inches. Mark on the stem, around the transom,
and two intervening points the spacing of the plank, keep-
ing the widths in about the same ratio. When you have
them marked" on the different frames you will be able to
ascertain how the plank will appear when in position, and
if these point^ do not seem to come in a fair line go care-
fully over the spacing again, find out where the error ils
and rectify it.

All the planking of the boat should be widest at the
'midship section, and from this point forward and aft they
should have 'a gradual taper, and not be ^vide^ eithet for-
ward or aft of the 'midship section. This does not apply
to the garboard, for in some instances the shape of the
garboard is very peculiar, and if .the boat had a different
type of stem it would not apply to the planking.

You will not need any instructions how to get out the
planks, for the marks on the frames will give yoti the
widths at the different poiftts, and you will work first from
the lower edge of the sheerstrake, taking the spiling frorn
same, transferring it to the plank, cut to shape- then set off
the widths at the proper places, draw. a line through the
points and cut the lower edge to shape. When you have
the plank cut to the required shape you will find that if
the edge of the plank is left square with the face that
when you set this edge up to the edge of the sheerstrake
the seam is open wider in the center than at the ends, and
you must trim the edge so as to have the seams open on
the outside about 1-16 of an inch the entire length. Take
the bevels off the edge of the sheerstrake at intervals and
plane the edge or the plank that is to be fastened next to
same to correspond to these bevels or nearly, so, as the
joints of all the planks should be tight on the inside and
open on the outside so as to receive the calking cotton.
You must keep in mind the fact that all the planks wjll
have to be bevelled. Another thing to which I will call
your attention at this time is the fact that, after you have
put on one or two strakes below the sheerstrake you will
have to cope Or hollow the planks on the inside so that
they will fit close to the frames, and as the specifications
call for the planking to finish 7-16 inch in thickness, the
planks that are coped will have to be thicker than the:

102

others. If the coping amounts to about 1-16 of an inch or
mcic, have the plank that much thicker and when you
have it coped to fit set your gauge to 7-16 inch and from
the inside of plank mark both the upper and lower edges,
and then bevel them from the outside of the plank to the
gauge mark, the bevel being about I inch in length. This
will materially assist you when you plane the outside of
the planking, for if you jack the plank down until you are
close to the seams that are bevelled in this manner you
can be reasonably sure that the plank will be an even
thickness.

After you have fastened four strakes on either side you
can remove the molds. As you take each one out, fasten
a brace across the upper edge from one side to the other,
nailing them to the frames to prevent the boat spreading,
and also secure with staylaths overhead at intervals.

You can now give your attention to the keelsons. These
should be in one length. Select two nice, clear pieces of
spruce and plane to the required thickness; measure out
from the center of the keel to the inside of the keelsons.
The plans show that these are to be spaced 17 inches
apart, therefore, you will measure out from the centerline
half that distance,. and mark the frames at intervals. Take
one of the pieces and set it to the marks on the inside of
the frames. It will not touch any of the frames in the
wake of Station No. 12 by several inches, but if you fasten
it in some manner or another, keeping it upright, you can
get the shape of the lower edge by taking your compasses
and marking it at intervals in much the same manner as
you take the spiling of the plank. Remove the piece and
after bending a batten to the points and drawing a line
through same, cut to shape. If you feel satisfied that you
can get the correct shape the first time, it would pay you
to take the trouble of marking both sides of this keelson
and thus get the bevel, and also mark the places that have
to be cut out to allow it to fit over the frames. If you are
not sure of your ability in this line, you had better trim
roughly as suggested, then set it in position, fasten with
clamps or some simple method, and proceed to mark on
both sides the location of the frames, setting a straight
line on either side of the frames, and the compasses will
be brought into play again to mark the required depth
that the keelson is to be cut to allow it to fit over the
frames.

1 would suggest that you allow a depth of about 1-16
inch more than the thickness of the frames, so that the
lower edge of the keelson will project below the frames,
and then when it is in position you can plane oflf the sur-
plus stock; and if this is done carefully the inside of the
plank will fit tight against the lower edge of the keelson.
Both keelsons will have to be fitted in the same manner and
the height at the diflferent stations can be taken from the
plans. When you fasten them in position, use either gal-
vanized iron nails or brass screws, bore through the frame
and fasten into the keelson at each alternate frame.

As the bilge clamps are easier to set in position before
the boat is planked, you might as well put them in before
proceeding with the planking.

The specifications call for tl;e bilge clamps to be made
of spruce ^ x 3 inches. Select good, clear stock and work
to the required shape. They are to be tapered to 2 inches
at the ends, and this taper should be about 8 feet long at
the forward end and about 6 feet at the after end. Plane
and finish them before you fasten in position. Spring
the center in to the frames at the same point as shown on
the plans, and the forward end to approximately the same
point as shown on plans, although you must be guided to
a great extent by thS shape it assumes. It is not advisable
to spring it edgewise, and it should be allowed to assume
such a shape that it will lie close to the frames and not
have either of the edges standing up from same. When
you are sure you have it in the correct position, fasten
with copper nails 3-32-inch diameter and rivet over burrs

on the inside. The fastenings should be alternately near
the upper and lower edge, one fastening through each
frame. When the bilge clamps are in position, you can
start planking again. Start with the plank next to the
garboard and work upwards. After fastening a plank on
one side fasten the duplicate on the other side ; don't put
two or three planks on one side of the boat and then two
or three on the opposite side. Watch the forward and
after ends of the planks as you progress and see that you
do not gain faster on one side than the other, for if there
is anything that looks bad it is to have the wood ends on
one side of the stem or transom higher than the,y are on
the other side. However, if you are careful to shape and
fit the planks to the marks you have made on the frames
you are not likely to experience this trouble.

The last plank to be fitted in is called the shutter, and
I should advise you taking a spiling for both edges of this
and for both sides of the boat, for if there is any variation
in the space on either side it will be necessary. Take par-
ticular care to have the shutter large enough; it should
be a good driving fit, and it will then help to tighten up
all the planking. You will find that you cannot rivet the
nails over burrs where the fastenings come in the wake
of the bilge clamps, and the best plan would be to fasten
the planks at such places with brass screws.

If, for any reason, you prefer to use planks that are not
full length you can do so. The joints should come be-
tween the frames and be well fastened to oak butt blocks.
Make the blocks the same thickness as the frames and cut
to the shape of the inside of the plank. The blocks should
extend from frame to frame and be about 1/2 inch wider
than the plank which butts on them.

The seams should be roughed down with a jack-plane
before the boat is calked, but there is no need to try to
plane the outside smooth until after the calking has been
done, for then it can be planed to much bfetter advantage.

If you have decided to calk the boat yourself, you can
now proceed with same; but I should strongly advise your
procuring the services of an experienced man. In spite
of the fact that it looks easy to do such work when you
watch a calker driving in cotton, there is a great deal
more to it than appears to the amateur. It is not simply
a matter of driving in cotton; a great deal depends upon
how much cotton rs required, and how hard to drive it. If
you want to finish the job yourself, and would like to do
this calking, take a small strip of fine calking cotton and
drive it into the seams, using a thin calking iron and mal-
let. This cotton should not be driven in the seam in a line
like a piece of rope, but keep catching back a loop every
inch or so, and tap it in place until you have proceeded in
this manner for a few feet, then go over it with the calk-
ing iron and drive it in. until it is about Yz of an inch be-
low the surface of the plank. If you find it drives in easy
use more" cotton, if too hard, less cotton. The man who
makes a business of calking when he finishes to a certain
point leaves the end of the cotton showing and does not
drive this in place until he starts to continue the calking
of the seam, and in this manner avoids missing any places.
You will have to calk the seam in the stem, and also
around' the transom. The garboard seam will probably
require more cotton than any of the others, but this de-
pends entirely upon how well you have done y-our work,
whether the seams are large or small.

The deck clamps, which are to be of spruce, J^ x 3
inches amidship, tapered at the ends the same as the
bilge clamps,, can now be gotten out. Select good clear
stock ; small fine knots are not detrimental, but avoid
any stock with large knots or short grain, as the clamps
should be strong. Set the upper edge of the clamp the
proper distance (see plans) and fasten in position, using
bolts or nails 3-32-inch diameter. The fastenings are to be
through sheerstrake, frame and clamp and to be riveted
over burrs on the inside. Do not place them in a direct

103

line; they should be staggered, being placed alternately
near the upper and lower edges of the clamp. When ^ou
have finished fastening the clamps you can get out the
quarter knees, fit them and fasten to the clamp and tran-
som, and then get out the breast hook ; fit this carefully to
the stem and inside of the sheerstrake and fasten securely.
It is a good plan to make the -breast hook high enough in
the center to allow of it being worked down to the crown
of the underside of the deck.

The shelves are to be of spruce, to finish % x 2^ inches,
and you will require two pieces long enough to make them
without any joint; cut and plane to the prciper size, and
then bevel the edge so as to have the upper side on the
same bevel as the planksheer, clamp in position and fasten
through the sheerstrake. It is advisable to fasten this
shelf through each third frame, selecting such frames as
have the fastenings through the clamp near the lower
edges, otherwise you would in all probability get too many
fastenings through the heads of the frames, and thus tend
to weaken them. Put in a few fastenings through the

', shelf into the upper edge of the clamp; one about every

I 20 inches would be sufficient.

For the after deck you will require three beams ]4xi}i

the point B, draw the curve C a b c B. This curve will
be a segrnent of a circle, but as it only represents half of
the beam, and if A N is made equal to A B and a similar
construction made, then B t M will represent the curve of
the beam. When you have constructed one of these arcs
you will find that it is a very simple matter to make the
others, and if you set out each beam in this manner you
will find that the centerline of the forward deck is a
straight line, and the curve of the deck fair and true.
When you have cut out the beams, fasten them to the
clamps and then get out the coaming knees. Make these
of spruce, fasten well to the beams, etc., and trim the
upper side so that you will have a fair curve. Trim the
inside edge of the knees so that they are plumb and cut to
the same curve as the forward end of the coamiiig. Fit in
between the beams blocks for the bleat and cowl ventilator
as per plans.

You can now give your attention to the pieces to make
the planksheer, which is the plank on the outer edge of
the deck. The specifications call for this to be made of
mahogany J4 inch thick ; it is to be 4 inches in width, from
the after end of the cockpit to a point about 2 feet aft
of the forward end of the coaming aro.und the hood, and

o p

Fig. 10 — Showing Method of Constructing Curve for Beams

inches. The camber or crown of the after-deck beams is
2>4 inches in 4 feet. Cut the ends of the beams into the
clamp about % inch and fasten to same. Set in between
the beams a block of oak as shown on the construction
plan for the tow-post to be mortised through. Trim the
quarter knees to the same crown as the deck beams and
the after deck frame will be ready for the deck plank.

The beams for the forward deck are .segments of cir-
cles, each one having a different radius,. The simplest way
for you to get put these beams is to saw them to shape,
for if they were bent to shape you would have to make a
separate mold for each one. One method of getting the
curve of these beams is to sweep in the curve by using a
long stafT with a pencil attachment at one end, but as this
requires a long arm to get the proper radius the best and
simplest way is to construct the curve geometrically.
There are several methods of constructing a segment of a
circle, that has a radius greater than can be drawn with
the usual compasses, but I will deal with one of the sim-
plest for the benefit of those who are not well versed in
geometry.

We will take as ai} example the beam at, the forward
end of the coaming; the center of the beam is 3% inches
above the edge of the sheerstrake, and the width of the
boat at this point measured inside of the upper edge of
the sheerstrake is 45 inches. Using these dimensions for
the base and height, you can proceed to construct a curve
as per Fig. 10. Draw a straight line, A B, equal to half
the length of the beam, from the point A draw A C per-
pendicular to A B and' in length equal to the crown of
the beam, draw a line from B to C, and from the point B
draw B P perpendicular to B C; through C draw C P
parallel to A B. Divide A B and C P into any number
of equal parts, the same number in each, and join those
opposite to each other as D G, E H. F I. Through B draw
B O perpendicular to A B, cutting C P at O. Divide
B O into the same number of equal parts as A B or C P
and join C with each of the divisions. Then through the
point C, the point a where D G cuts C J, the point b
where E H cuts C K. the point c where F I cuts C L. and

from this point forward it is to have a slight taper; the
after end should also be slightly tapered. You will have
to cut this plank to the proper shape before starting to
fasten it, and if you have been able to get out the proper
shape of the different planks there is scarcely any need
for me to explain how to get the shape of the planksheer.
You will not he able to get it out of one piece on account
of the curve, and therefore I would suggest that you have
the joint about midway bet\yeen the forward and after
end of the engine hood. Naturally you will have to be
guided to some extent by the length and width of the stock
you can procure. When you have the pieces cut out for
the planksheer, begin to fasten at the forward end and
work aft; fasten in position the pieces across the after end
of the after deck, and strike a centerline on the deck
beams fore and aft. This line is to be used as a guide for
laying the deck plank.

The specifications call for the deck plank to be made of
mahogany yi inch thick and 3 inches in width. Starting
with the after deck, bring the edge of the first piece up to
the centerline, fit the after end and fasten with brass
screws, countersinking the heads so that the fastenings
can be covered with wood plugs. Work in the plank on
either side, fastening them as soon as you fit them, and
before fitting the next one. Proceed in this manner until
the deck is covered and you can proceed in the same man-
ner to cover the forward deck. If you are particularly
anxious to make a very nice job of the deck, you can taper
each piece of plank, and not carry them on a straight line,
as suggested. To obtain the shape of the planks if worked
in this manner, you would have to decide first how many
pieces of plank you intended to use; space them on the
beam having the greatest length and then space the rest
of the beams for the same number of plank. It is much
the same operation as I suggested for setting out the
planks after you had the sheerstrake and garboard in
position

The under side of the plank for the forward deck will
undoubtedly have to be coped to fit the round of the beams.

Calk the seams lightly with a fine thread of yacht cot-

104

ton, and if the deck is to be finished bright, plane roughly
to the required shape and fill the seams with white lead
putty, unless you prefer to use the elastic seam composi-
jion or marine glue. The final finishing of the deck should
not be considered at this stage of the game; it is far better
to leave this until all the principal woodwork is finished.

The. engine-bed should be fitted and fastened before you
start- ft) put in the beams for the cockpit deck.

Tftc length of the bearers for the engine-bed wilFdepend
to a great extent upon the engine you intend installing,
and that will also govern the thickness of same. The spec-
ifications call for the bearers to be sided 2 inches. They
should be fitted over the frames the same as the lower edge
of the keelsons, and be well fastened to same. The height
of the upper edge of the fore and aft bearers would be de-
termined by the distance the underside of the engine-bed
where it rests on the bearers is above or below the center-
line of the crank-shaft. You will have to obtain the meas-
urement before fitting the fore and aft bearers, and should
also obtain the width that will be required between the
bearers.

To obtain the line of the center of the shaft, you should
use a piece of very hard laid fish line, or, better still, a
piece of piano wire. Set out the height on the post sup-
porting the after end of the stocks, and another point in-
side of the boat well forward of where the flywheel of
the engine will set. Fasten a piece of board to the frames
and have the upper edge a trifle higher than the center of
the line at this point^cui a nick in the edge, so that when
the wire sets in same it will be the proper height, take the
other end through the hole in the keel, and as the form
will prevent your drawing the line directly aft to the point
representing the center of the shaft, you will have to bore
through the form or you can cut part of it away, so long
as you leave enough to support the boat properly. Bore a
hole through the center of the end-post and, pulling the
wire through this to the required height, draw it as taut
as possible,' and you can then measure to this line, either
up or down as the case may be for the upper side of the
engine bearers.

When you have them fitted and fastened, if there is
room enough between the after side of the flywheel and
the forward end of the crank-case to admit of using a
good-sized athwartship bearer, it is a good plan to fit one
in position and if possible to bolt through the keelsons,
fore and aft bearers and the athwartship bearer, as it
makes the engine-bed more solid and tends to eliminate
the vibration of the engine by distributing it more evenly.
One of these athwartship bearers at the after end of the
engine is also to be recommended.

If you have your engine on hand, it would be advisable
to set it in position and fasten to the bed and then line up
the shaft and fit the shaft tube, otherwise ycu will have
to leave part of the cockpit deck open until the shaft tube
is fitted. The drawing. Fig. 14, shows the type of shaft
tube such as I use on my boats, but if you prefer vou can
purchase one of the adjustable shaft tubes that are now
on the market. You can put in the exhaust pipe and water
connections and, in fact, finish all the pipine of the en-
gine much more readily at this period than later on, when
you would have to take up floors, etc.

Bore the hole through the transom knee and fit in the
rudder port, which is to be made of brass pipe fitted with
a stuffing-box and lock-nut as per Fig. 20. The lower
end of the port should be threaded and extend through to
the under side of the keel, and fit tightly in the hole to
obviate any chance of a leak around same.

The cockpit beams should be placed in position and fas-
tened. They are to be of spruce, sided % inch, molded
154 inches. Space them as shown on the construction
plan, fastening the ends securely and setting short, upright
pieces for stanchions over the keel wherever necessary.
The cockpit deck is to be I inch lower at the after end

than at the forward end, in order to drain off the water.
Strike a line through the center of the beams, and fasten
the deck plank to the beams. The deck planks are to be
of spruce or pine >4 inch thick, and whether you follow
the specifications as to width or not is immaterial, but it
is not advisable to use very wide boards on account of the

Fig. 13 — Transom

tendency to shrink and swell, and the greater the number
of seams, the less the shrinkage and swelling will be per-
ceptible.

The coaming should be made of mahogany or some hard
wood. Select nice straight-grained stock; it is to be a
half-inch in thickness. If you have a good wide board
long enough to work from a point aft of the engine hood,
clear around the forward end to the opposite side, it would
be advisable to use it, otherwise you can make the joint
at the forward end and secure it with a butt block on the
inside. You will h^ve to use your spiling batten or some
thin stock to get the correct shape. The width you ca^
take from the construction' plan ; steam the forward end,
and bend over a form of the required shape. Fasten well
with brass screws from the inside to the shelf and coam-
ing knees. It would be a good plan to leave the coaming
a trifle higher than shown on the plan and to trim this
down to the proper height after it is fastened in position.
A surplus of about % inch would be ample. Where the
butts occur on either side of the cockpit you need not use
a butt block on the inside unless you prefer same. They
are rather unsightly at the best. If you intend to carry
an oar on this boat you could put a butt block on the out-
side of the coaming arid fasten the oar-lock sockets to
same, but the best method is to make a tight butt joint and
then bore a hole % to 5-16-inch diameter down through
the center of the joint and drive in a dowel. The after
ends of the coaming where they set on the deck can be fas-
tened from the under side or from the upper side if pre-
ferred, and the heads of the fastenings covered vvith wood
plugs. ■ Round slightly the upper edge and shape the after
ends as pet- plans. A light thread of cotton should be
worked in around between the coaming and the edge of
the deck.

The bulkheads at the forward and after end of the cock-
pit should next claim your attention. Build up a suitable
frame on the deck and around the inside of the plank and
cover with tongued and grooved mahogany J^ inch thick
and about 3 inches wide. It is preferable to use bevel-edge
staving, to that with a bead, as it is so much easier to keep

105

106

clean and to scrape, when the latter becomes necessary.
Fasten the lower ends of the staving to the frame on the
deck, and to the upper frame; make sure that you keep the
line of the staving vertical and above all have good
joints, as such a bulkhead materially strengthens and stiff-
ens the boat if properly fitted.

Where any fittings, such as auxiliary shaft for starting
engine, controls, steerer, etc., are cut through or fastened
to the bulkhead it would be well to reinforce same on
the inside with oak blocks '/i inch thick well fastened to
the staving. The bulkhead at the after end should be
staved up in the same manner as the forward one, and as
you may require to get at the steering apparatus it would
be well to cut a door in same, the lower edge to be not
less than 2 inches above the deck; if it were flush you
would find that considerable of the rainwater, and such
water as you might ship, would run down into the bilge
instead of overboard through the scuppers.

These scuppers should be made of i-inch inside diameter
lead-pipe , fairly heavy stock, weighing about 4 pounds to
the foot should be used; set them in the after corners of
the cockpit deck, recessing the wood so that they can be
flanged over and still be flush or below the level of the
deck. The holes in the underbody where the scuppers pass
through should not be directly below those in the deck,
but lead aft two or three inches and the lower ends should
also be flanged and the wood recessed to receive the flange
so as to insure a good, smooth job. Fasten around the
flange at both ends with fine brass screws or copper tacks.

The ceiling is to be of mahogany, 5-16 inch thick, 2
inches wide, and should be made of tongued and grooved
stock with the edges bevelled, to match the bulkhead stav-

rti

/-Wsm ■

insure a tight joint, or you can take a piece of canvas
about 5 to 6 inches wide, set the lower edge in white lead
and fasten to the deck with copper tacks, then fasten the
upper edge to the frames and apply, a coat of heavy white

( "Jlionj.

■ Figure 18 — Balanced Rudder

ing. Fasten well to the frames, the ends to butt against
the staving of the bulkheads. The lower edge where it
meets the deck should either be set into a rabbeted piece of
spruce that was fastened closely to tl ^ deck in order to

Figure 19 — Skag Rudder

lead paint and set the lower piece of staving on the edge
of the canvas and fasten at every frame.

Frame up the helmsman's seat with spruce and cover the
forward and after sides with staving to match the bulk-
head. Cut a good-sized limbur through the staving and
frame on each side so as to allow any water that may come'
in forward of the seat to run aft, and out through the
scuppers. The gasolene tank is to be of copper,' and is to
be fitted under the seat, and when in place you can put on
the top of the seat. It is advisable to put this on in such
a manner that it can easily be removed, if at any time it
is necessary to take out the tank. Cut in flush with the
top of seat a large deck-plate directly over the filler plate
of the tank.

The seat and backboard at the after end are so plainly
shown that there is no need to do anything more than
mention that they are to be fitted and fastened. The thick-
ness is given in the specifications and the other particu-
lars can be taken from the plan.

The next most important thing is the hatches, and
frame of the hood covering the engine. For the strong-
back, you will require a piece of spruce 2x8 inches and
SJ4 feet long. Shape this as per Fig. 21, with a water-
way on either side, and hollow the under side to keep
down the weight. Fasten this at either end with a small
metal knee, so that if you want to take it out at any
time you can do so and not destroy the woodwork. Make
a form to bend the frames for the edges of the hatches
and make them of oak; after bending let them set prop-
erly before you try to fit them; and another thing that
may assist you would be to bend them with a trifle shorter
turn than you really need. You can easily straighten
them a little, but it is hard to get them to bend any more
once they are set.

Make up the rest of the frame so that it fits easily in-
side of the coaming, and then cut out the beams, which
are to be of spruce. Set the ends into the frame and
fasten securely. When you have finished both frames.

107

set a ledge around inside of the coaming for them to rest
on; place the frames in position and ascertain that the
upi>er side is fair; if not, plane it until it is fair and true
and then you can start to cover the frame with the plank,
which is to be of mahogany 7-16 inch thick.

The piece that fits over the strong-back is to be 6 inches
wide, and the widths of the plank on the hatches can be
determined' by the stock you have on hand, but don't make
them too wide. Either calk the seams lightly or batten
them on the under side. Carefully smooth the top of
the hatches and trim the outer edges fair with the coam-
ing. The edges are to be covered with a strip of brass
No. 14 gauge, 1 incTi wide. Cut this to the proper shape
to 'bend around the edge and fasten with countersunk-
head brass screws — the edges of the brass should be care-
fully rounded. Fasten the hatches with brass or bronze
hinges, the joints to be directly over the joint of the ma-
hogany centerplank and' edge of hatch. Suitable quad-
rants, or something to take the place of same, should be

'^ hMIOGANY

SeCT/ON THffU ENGINE HATCH

e I « .3

'■'III'-

Scale.
Figure 21 — Hatch Over the Motor

fastened to the after end of the hatches to keep them open
"when desired.

After you have finished with the interior of the cock-
pit and coaming you can finish planing and smoothing
the decks; set the bitt in the after deck, and you can turn
your attention to the planing and smoothing of the plank-
ing. Finish it carefully, scrape and sandpaper, theri fasten
in position the pieces of half-round mahogany molding,
and if you have decided to have a gilt stripe cut a cove
in the plank at proper height, and' then mark the water-
line. I would suggest that you raise the line so that when
you have the painted line it will show about i to i^
inches above the actual waterline.

There are a number of different ways to mark a water-
line, and some of you may know a simpler method than
the following, but this will give' the desired results. Mark'
on the stem and the transom the height of the waterline,
take tw'o straight-edge planks, a little longer than the
width of the boat, set the upper edge so that it is level
with the point on the stem representing the waterline,
fasten this piece of wood and make sure that the upper
edge is level, using your spirit-level to make sure ; repeat
the operation with the other piece of board at the after
end, then stretch a line from the upper edge of the for-
ward cross-piece to the after one, draw the line very taut,
take your spirit-level and' bring it up to the line ; see that
the level only just touches the line and then where the
upper edge of the level touches the hull make a point;
repeat this operation at intervals all around the hull, then
take a thin batten, something about 34 x 2 inches, and
bend it to the point you have made, keeping the side of
the batten, vertical ; fasten at intervals with fine wire
brads, and when you have it fastened, take a scriber or
some pointeQ instrument and scratch in a line along the
edge of the batten. When the batten is removed sight
along the line you have made, and it should be straight.
Of course, it follows the shape of the boat, but it should
be level. The idea in scribing or scratching in this line
is that it does not get obliterated with painting, etc., so
rapidly as if it was simply drawn on with a pencil, and it
is easier to draw to a painted line than to a pencil mark.
There are still a number of things for you to do
before the hull is completed. The strut is to be
made and fitted, the steerer and steering ropes, the
rudder, the deck fittings, etc., to say nothing ofi
finishing the installation of the engine; but I do
not see that there is any need for me to dwell upon these
points any more than there is to try to explain how to
paint the boat.

Unless" you have; good reasons for. doing otherwise, I
would' recommend that you finish the boat entirely while
she is. on the stocks and if you have got to take her any
great distance, build a cradle under her. This you can
readily do. Then block up the cradle, remove the stocks
End lower the cradle down to the floor or else to the
height of the team if she has to be carted any distance.
When purchasing the paint or varnish, get the best; it
will pay in the end. Don't hesitate to spend time finishing
the boat properly, sandpapering down each coat before
the next is applied.

Naturally there are many points I have not touched
upon, but I believe that all the main points have been
covered', and if I have made any grave errors I ti'ust that
you will overlook them.

Specifications for the Construction of a

25-Foot Runabout

BY FREDERIC S. NOCK

Material and Workmanship: In carrying out these speci-
fications, there are to be used only the best of materials and
workmanship. All wciod shall be sound and clear, all p.'eces
to be cut fair with the grain and selected to have the grain
follow the shape as closely as possible.

Keel: To be of native white oak, molded ij4 inches,
shaped as per plans, and to be rabbeted to receive the gar-
board. The upper side is to be rounded as per detail plan.

Stem r To be a natural crook of oak or hackmatack, sided
2}^ inches, molded as per plans. To be connected to the
keel with a 'lock scarf and fastened with 5/16-inch diameter

bolts riveted over washers. Heads of fastenings to be
countersunk and covered with wood plugs.

Transom : To be of white pine or mahogany, 5^-inch
thick, connected to the keel with an oak or hackmatack
knee, sided 3 inches and molded as per plans. To be rab-
beted to receive the transom plank, and to be fastened with
51 16-inch diameter bolts riveted over washers, heads to be
countersunk and covered with wood plugs. Cheek pieces of
oak %-inch thick, 1J/2 inches wide are to be shaped and
fastened to the transom to form a back rabbet for the
plank which is to be well fastened with brass screws.

108

Frames: To-be of young white oak, -j^ x 5^ inch, spaced
- 6 inches center to center. To be steam bent to shape and
all frames aft of Station No. 6 to extend from sheer to
sheer in one piece and to have two fastenings in keel.
Frames forward of Station No. 6 that do not cross the keel
are to have the heels well fastened to the keel.

Keelsons: To be of spruce sided i inch, molded as per
plans. To be spaced 8j4 inches from the center to the
inside. They are to be cut over all frames, carefully fitted
and well fastened.

Deck Clamp: To be of spruce, Hx3 inches amidships,
tapered at ends to J^ x 2 inches. To be well fastened to the
frames, and at each alternate frame to have one fastening
through frame and sheerstrake.

Bilge Clamps : To be of spruce, % x3 inches amidship,
tapered at ends to %x.2 inches. To be well fastened to the
frames.

Sheerstrake: To be of mahogany, 7/16-inch thick, and
about 4 inches wide amidship, tapered at ends. To be well
fastened to the frames with copper nails riveted over burrs.
The fastenings through the upper edge on each third frame
are to go through sheer strake, frame and shelf for the
length o{ the shelf.

Planking : To be of clear cedar or white pine to finish
7/16-inch thick, to •t)e in long lengths, and where butts occur,
same are to be reinforced with oak backing. Fastenings to be
copper nails riveted over burrs. Heads countersunk and
covered with wood plugs. Inside of plank to be properly
coped to fit the frames, outside to be planed iair and true
and finished smooth. Seams to be calked with yacht cotton,
payed with white lead and finished flush with white-lead
putty.

Shelf: To be of spruce, Ys x25^ inches, to extend the full
length of the cockpit and hatch coaming as per plans. To
be well fastened to the clamp, and at each third frame ':o
have one fastening through frame and sheerstrake.

Deck Beams : To be of spruce, sided % inches, molded
lJ4 inches, sawed to the required camber and spaced as
shown on plans. Ends to be well fastened to the clamp.

Coaming Knees: To be of spruce, iVi inches thick,
shaped as per plans and well fastened to the shelf and beams.

Planksheer: To be of mahogany, V^'-inch thick, 4 inches
wide in the wake of the coaming and tapered at ends. To
be well fastened to the deck beams, etc., with brass screws,
heads to be countersunk and covered with wood plugs.

Deck Plank : To be of mahogany, J^-inch thick, laid in
strips 3 inches wide and well fastened to the beams with
brass screws, heads to be countersunk and covered with wood
plugs. All seams to be calked with yacht cotton and filled
with elastic seam cement or white-lead putty, as desired.

Coaming • To be of mahogany, Yz-mch thick, steam bent
to shape at forward end, and to be well fastened to the shelf
and coaming knees.

Cockpit Deck Beams: To be of spruce, sided % inches,
molded iJ4 inches, spaced 12 inches. Ends of beams to be
well fastened to the frames and clamp and supported where
necessary on spruce stanchions ?ixiJ4 inches, set over the
center of keel.

Cockpit Deck Plank : To be of clear spruce or white
pine 5^-inch thick, laid in narrow strip.s, to be fastened with
galvanized nails or brass screws. To be either tongued and
grooved or calked seams as desired. Deck to be made water-
tight and to drain aft through lead scuppers i-inch inside
diameter.

Bulkheads: The bulkhead at the after end of the engine
compartment is to be framed up and covered with mahogany
strips l^-inch > thick, 3-inch face tongued and grooved.
Wherever the fittings pass through the bulkhead, same is to
be reinforced with blocks on the inside. The bulkhead at
the forward end of the afterdeck is to be framed up and
covered with }i x3-inch mahogany the same as the forward
bulkhead, and a suitable trap is to be cut in same to admit
of access to the steering gear, etc.

Ceiling: The inside of the frames above the cockpit floor
are to be covered with mahogany staving, S/i6-inch thick,
2-inch face, ceiling to extend from the upperside of the deck
to the underside of the clamp and to be well fastened to the
frames with small finishing nails.

Stern Seat and Lazy Back : To be of mahogany J^-inch
thick, shaped and fitted "as per plans.

Helmsman's Seat: To be frarned up as per plans and staved
on the forward and afterside with mahogany ^-inch thick,
3-inch face. A copper gasolene tank 12 inches deep, 15 inches

wide and 42 inches in length fitted with suitable swash par-
titions, is to be carefully fitted under tTie seat. Bottom of
tank is to be iyi inches above the cockpit floor, and suitable
limburs are to be cut in the frame and staving to admit of
allowing the water to run aft under the tank. The top of
seat is to be of mahogany, ^-inch thick, and fastened in
position with brass screws. A suitable deck-plate is to be
let in flush with the top of the seat over the filler of tank.

Bitt : To be of oak or locust, 3x3 inches, to be set
through deck and blocking and well fastened on the under-
side by an oak or locust wedge.

Engine Bed : To be arranged to meet the requirements
of the engine. The fore and kft bearers to be of oak, sided
2 inches, and to extend well beyond the foundation of en-
gine fore and aft. They are to be well fastened and bolted
through keelsons. Suitable athwartship bearers to meet the
requirements of the engine are to be provided, one between
the flywheel and base of engine, the other one well aft, and
if there is room' to admit of using same, there is to be one
bolt through keelsons, fore and aft, and athwartship bearers
at either end, bolts to have nut and washers on the out-
side of keelsons.

Fenders or Rubstreak : To be of mahogany i-inch, half
round, well fastened to the sheerstrakes, etc.

Hatches, Etc., Over Engine Space : A strongback of
spruce with suitable waterways on either side and worked out
on the underside as per plans to be made and well fastened
to the coaming and bulkhead. The hatch frame is to be
made of oak, curved part steam bent to shape and carefully
fitted. Finished size of section of frame ^xiJ4 inches deep.
The beams are to be of spruce sided % inches, molded I
inch, sawed to crown. Ends of beams to be cut into the
frame and well fastened. Hatches and strongback to be
covered 7-16 inch mahogany, in narrow strips, seams to be
battened on the underside or calked as desired. Fastenings
to be brass screws, heads countersunk and covered with
wood plugs. The edges of the hatch are to be covered with
a brass strip, gauge No. 14 stock, i inch in width, fastened
in position with countersunk head brass screws. Three hinges
of_ bronze, 18 inches in length, 6 inches center to center of
joints are to be used for the hatches, and there is to be a
bronze quadrant or slide for either hatch that will admit
of them being held open.

Fittings : To comprise : — One shaft tube of bronze con-
structed as per detail plans with stuffing-box and locknut,
flange to be carefully fitted to the keel and well fastened
with brass screws. Bronze rudder, with cast manganese
bronze stock, and hard rolled Tobin bronze plate 3-16 inch
thick, brass rudder -port with stuffing-box and locknut, gal-
vanized iron quadrant or sliding tiller, galvanized steel or
Phosphor bronze tiller rope 14 i"eh diameter, galvanized
iron or bronze sheave leads of not less than 3 inches diam-
eter for tiller rope. One adjustable auto steerer with
wood rim wheel 12 inches diameter, one 12-inch bronze
cleat, _ one 4-inch cowl ventilator, two 6-inch brass com-
bination chocks, twfo 5-inch brass quarter chocks, two
bronze flush flagpole sockets, one 24-ounce copper tank of
about 30 gallons' capacity with suitable swash partitions,
bronze filler, vent plate and supply connection. One 6-inch
diameter deck plate over stuffing-box, one suitable deck
plate over tank filler, three bronze hinges for hatches, two
quadrants or slides for hatches, brass stem band, two flag-
poles, one yacht ensign, one private sig^nal or yacht club
pennant, one pair of side lights, and one bow light, either
galvanized iron or brass as desired. One 25-pound fold-
ing anchor, 100 feet 9-16-inch diameter Manila warp, one
6-inch diameter ship's bell, two Manila fast lines 30 feet
in length, two canvas fenders 4 inches diameter, 16 inches
long, and one bronze head boat hook with 7-foot handle.

Painting, Finishing, Etc.: The entire interior of the
hull to receive one coat of priming paint before being ceiled.
The topsides to be primed and to receive three coats of
pure white lead paint, each coat to be well rubbed down
before the second coat is applied. The underbody to be
primed and treated to two coats of bronze or anti-fouling
paint rubbed down smooth. All exterior bright work to be
well filled and finished with three coats of best spar com-
position, each coat to be well rubbed down before the next
coat is applied. The interior of the engine space to re-
ceive two coats of white lead paint, light slate color. The
cockpit deck to be treated to two coats of deck paint of
an approved shade. Cove and name to be sized and gilded
with gold leaf.

109

110

How to Build a "Dead-Rise" Boat

By A. M. KEYS

IN response to many recent inquiries regarding the con-
struction of a dead-rise boat similar to the one described
in The Motor Boat of July 25th, and in the belief that
there are many who would like to have such a craft and
who have sufficient mechanical ability to build it, I have
endeavored in this article to show a simple and practical
method of construction. The boat shown in the drawings
is a 30-footer, but can be built with equal ease in any size
desired.

First, decide on the size of boat you desire; say, for
instance, one of 24 feet over all. Then procure a block of
soft pine which will measure lyi inches for every foot of
length of the complete boat, or 36 inches long in this case,
and 4^/2 inches wide by 3 inches in depth. This may be
either a solid block or three i-inch boards tacked one to
the other. The latter method is best, since the edges of
the boards will offer a straight-edge to cut by and ^o
measure from, the advantage of which will be made clear.
After making sure that your block is perfectly square
and smoothed on all four surfaces, if it is a solid block
rule it lengthwise into i-inch divisions. Also divide it
into six equal parts by ruling it all the way round every
six inches. Then, on one side, draw in the sheer-plan, or
side-efevation as shown in Figure i. On the side which
is to be your deck, draw your half-breadth plan. (Figure
2.) Make sure, of course, that the inside of your lialf-
breadth plan is the opposite side from the one on which
you have drawn your sheer plan. In order to get fair,
sweeping curves make a straight-edge of soft, dear pine,
^-inch square, and long^ enough to reach from end to
end of your block. Dot off the heights of your gunwale at
all the stations and drive pins in at these points. Push your
straight-edge up against the pins, and if the curve is fair,
rule it in. If not, move any pin up or down until the line
makes a fair curve. This is of greater importance than
the exact measurements. Decide upon the depth of your
side in the same way, making it about I inch high for
every 12 inches in length, and the ends slightly less, as
in the drawings.

Now, having gotten these lines to where they please you;
you are ready to cut. First, cut away the block to the
line of your keel ; then bevel off from that to the bottom
of your sides, and you will find that these angles will take
care of themselves if your rule will lie fair from bottom
to keel at any point. Next, cut your shear, or top of side.
Then, having replaced any lines you have cut away, cut
your out-board profile, making your angles more acute at
the ends than in the middle, and again replace the lines.
The block has now only one straight edge, which will be
the center line of your boat, fore and aft. Now, lay it
down on a piece of heavy paper or on a smooth board of
the original size of the block and draw its profile all
around, also drawing in the stations. You will need this
to get the heights at which your moulds are to be set from
the floor, its .we are going to build this boat up-side-down,
in which position you can get at her best and use your
muscles to .advantage.

Saw the block into 6-inch sections, where you have
drawn in your stations. If the cuts are carefully made,
right on the line all round, you will find each cut gives
you the shape of half your mould for that station. As
we have made ij/ inches to the foot, every % inch of your
block will equal i inch of your completed mould. Take
off these lines on a piece of heavy building paper, measur-
ing with great care, as a small error in taking off from
the block will be just eight times as great in the com-

pleted boat. Then cut these out and make your moulds.
Any rough stuff will suffice for them, as they will be
knocked out and thrown away in due time. After they
are complete, notch them out at gunwale and corners, l>^
inches by 4 inches, to take the shelf and chine, as shown
by dotted lines in Figure 3. This figure represents the
moulds set up, with keel, stem and stern in place, and
ready for chine and shelf.

We are now ready to build the boat, and to that end
we will follow the advice of the King of Wonderland:
"Begin at the beginning, go to the end and then stop."
This is how : Strike a line on the floor of your shop with
a chalked line, slightly longer than your boat is to be, and
right over which the keel is to be laid. Mark this in
deeply with pencil and lay out at right-angles the places
the moulds will occupy. On these cross lines, nail down
pieces of 3x4 inch wood. Rough stuff will do, but put
them down strongly. Then to these set up the moulds on
legs as showft in Figure 3. Get the heights from your
board as shown in Figure i, and brace them strongly, as
they must carry the entire weight of the boat. Be sure
they are plumb, up and down, as w€ll as at exact right-
angles with the keel. It is well to nail a strip along each
side of the bottom, from end to end, to make sure they do
not slip during construction. Then set up an upright in
front of where your stem will come and also one aft of
your stern, right in the centre.

For your keel you will need a piece of oak nearly as
long as your over all length, and at least 2x6 inches.
Taper this off to 2 by 3 inches for about 6 feet back; a
straight cut will do. For the stern, you will require
enough i-inch oak (or 1J/2 inch if you are going to build
a larger boat than 24 feet long) to make it. Don't use
ploughed or grooved stuff, but make good, smooth seams,
and screw backing pieces on it (not less than three).
Don't have a seam run out right at your corners. For
the stem a 3-inch oak plank is required. Get the length
from your model, and the wider your plank is, the greater
curve can be given to the stem. This curve is largely a
matter of taste, but as this boat is rather angular anyway,
a well curved stem and high crowned deck will add much
to her appearance. In getting out your keel, if you have
to splice to get the length, let the splice come as Tar for-
ward as possible, and back it up with a piece of the same
stuff, not less than four feet long and bolted through and
through. Add stay pieces up and down every three feet
to stiffen the sides, and back the joints with oak blocks
riveted through ; the stay pieces should be jogged over
chine and shelf. Taper off the face -of your stem and cut
the rabbet for the plank ends before setting it up. The
keel, for about 18 inches aft of the stem, will also need
rabbeting. Let it run off gradually at about that point.
The exact angle of the rabbet doesn't matter, as you can
doctor it later, when you come to plank.

Now set up the stem and brace it from the upright
already mentioned, and from which you also measure the
rake of the stem. "Line it up carefully with the after
upright. Do this carefullv. as it will ruin the looks of
the job if it isn't plumb. Then saw off the bottoms of your
moulds to the width of your keel (6 inches) and brace
the keel from above firmly down on your moulds, and
also toe in a screw from underneath on each mould into
the keel. Then get out your stem-knee (see Figure 3)
and bolt or screw it to both keel and stem. Set up your
stern in the same manner, getting the rake from the after
upright and sawing off your keel so that the face of the

111

stern is outside of it. YoU can make a pattern for your
stern knee after this is done, of any light stuff, and make
the knee of 3-inch oak. Bolt it through the keel and
screw through the stern.

You can now get out your sides, of i-inoh pine, or, if
you can get it, use California red-wood, which is free from
knots and comes, in long lengths. If you have made your
sides flare about as in Figure 4, you will find that your
sides will fit the moulds so neatly as to require little cut-
ting at the top, though they will need some at the bottom
as that is put up. However, you will find it easy to get
at and you can do it quite as well after it is on as before.
For the "bottom, use ipi inch stuff, beveling the first plank
off (inside) to an inch thickness where it takes the
rabbet. Your first few planks will run nearly up and
down, but by making them a little narrower at the bottom
than at the sides, you can soon get^ them raking aft.
Bevel off keel and chine till the plank lies fair and
and fasten with galvanized nails or screws. After the
bottom is all planked, plane off the ridge which
the plank ends have forrtjed forward, and in fact, all
along, if you have beveled your keel so much that the
plank ends have met. You will find, by the time you get
this far, that you will not need to cut so much bevel unless
you want to. Your skeg and your shaft-log will set
better if you have, left your keel bare for 3 inches in the
centre. Make a pattern for the skeg of light stuff and
fit it carefully, getting the rough ineasurement from your
sheer plan. Your shaft-log will have to be a piece of
3-inch oak, and after you have gotten it out and drawn a
line on, it at the angle of your shaft, you will do well to
take it to a saw-mill, if not too inconvenient. To bore
a hole three feet long, straight through a 3-inch plank
is no easy job. If, however, you must do it yourself, get
what is known as a barefoot auger, as pone other will
run as straight for that distance, and fasten with lag
screws through keel.

After you have your skeg in place, run your false keel,
Ij^x2 inches, laid flat, clear to the stem, which should
have been left long enough for it to butt against. ■ After
this, a half-round strap or bang-iron should cover the stem
and extend four or five feet back on the keel. Your rudder
and propeller guard can best be procured from a dealer
in marine hardware and should be of galvanized iron, as,
in fact, should be every nail and screw in the boat.

We are now ready to saw ofi^the legs of the mould and
to turn' her over with the moulds still in place. Build a
strong locrker across the middle, at about the height yoji
intend your seat to come. This will not only provide a
roomy and useful locker, but also will greatly stiffen your
boat. The forward ends of both your chine pieces and
shelf should be fastened together with triangular blocks
of oak or breast-hooks of natural growth and your stem
secured to both. Fasten them aft to the stern with oak
cleats in the same manner. This, however, is best done
before you commence to plank. Fit your deck beams
(1x3 inches will be strong enough) one inch below your
sides and spring in a 3-inch plank-sheer all along fore
and aft.

The moulds can now be taken out and a wide king-plank
of oak fitted down the centre of your forward deck, and
the rest planked in with pine. Thus far, nothing in the
boat has required steaming, and if you have no steam-box
you cannot bend your combing. But you can fit one quite
as good, if not so shapely, by cutting your forward deck
in a V shape and fitting your combing board to it, jogging
it out to go over your plank-sheer and springing your
combing cold on the sides of plank-sheer to butt up against
the forward V. This calls for a nice fitting in the centre,
but it can be done,and if finished with a breasthook inside
it will look right and be right.

A word about caulking. These boats are generally made
without any, and if your joints are carefully made you
will not need any. Don't be alarmed, even if you can see
the daylight through her before she is launched. Fill
your seams with a putty of white lead, to which you have
added whiting, worked up to the proper stiffness with a
putty-knife. The boat will swell up tight, all right. If
you do need caulking, however, hire a professional to do
it, as proper caulking is a trade by itself, and many a
good boat has been ruined by too much caulking.

Fore and, aft bearers 8 to 10 feet long should be laid for
the engine. Oak pieces about 2x3 inches will be suf-
ficiently strong. Over these your bed-pieces should be
jogged. You will have to be governed by the height of
your fly-wheel for these, but if you have managed to get
this far safely, you can be trusted to proceed unaided.

If your work has been done carefully, you will find
that you have a strong, able boat that can go out in any
reasonable weather and which can hold her own with any
boat of her size and power.

112

How to Build A Stern Wheeler

BY C. G. DAVIS

1 i

■

THERE are hundreds of places on the shallow lakes
and rivers throughout this country where the sea-
going motorboat would be hard aground most of the
time, and where only such boats can be used as are de-
signed to navigate the shallow places.

When Eastern designers turn out a Florida cruiser they
consider that they have designed a shallow draft boat;
but while they consider 36 inches shallow, the places we
have in mind would float only 12 inches and in some
spots not even that much, places where a man can re-
move his footgear, roll up his trousers and walk ashore at
almost any point.

The enjoyable sensations that make a boat ride so at-
tractive to the people along the seacoast, where motor-
bbating is carried on on a large scale, is all the more of
a novelty and all the more enjoyed by those who have
never or seldom been on the water on anything other
than a log raft. Think what a novelty such a craft would
be to a community whose rules of the road could be
summed up in two words, "nigh" and "off," or "gee" and
"haw." I can just imagine such a crowd with a man at
the wheel chewing the end of a dry straw, shouting as
he meets another boat, "Gee there 1 gee !"..^Why should
such a man adopt an unknown vocabulary and say^star-
board or port? The Government inspector would never
,come around in such localities to see if the boat had her
full equipment of side lights, bow and stern lights, fog
horn, bell and life preservers) Who would want a life
preserver when the water is onlv knee deep to a child?
And the moo of an old cow in a lot would be as good a
lighthouse fog horn as would be needed if the cow was
only tied so she'd stay in one place.

There are many disadvantages that the deep water
sailor has to contend with that would be unknown on the
waters where this stern wheeler could navigate, and no
doubt other novel conditions would crop up — a cow might
be coolinc herself in the brook and in that case a blast
of the whistle might be of use to scare her out of the
way. Now that small gasolene motors have been perfected
and have come into such use on the farm', the man who
runs that motor and understands the operation of it could
also run the one in the boat, and for that matter the
same motor could turn the churn, saw the wood and
be put in the. boat to drive it as needed. We deep-sea
dogs always speak of a boat as '^'le or hei, but we're not
going to impregnate the fresh, sweet, drinkable water with
salty terms, so shall call her "it."

The boat we have selected as being most suitable for
such work is one where the hull of the boat is 25 feet
long by 7 feet wide, and only sinks 7 inches deep in the
water. Including the sterirwheel the total length amounts
to 29 feet 6- inches.

Any amateur who has never seen a boat would be able
to construct ai boat this size. Every difficult feature in
boatbuilding has been purposely done away with, and
any one who can build a box can build it. Two 16-inch
planks, 25 feet 6 inches long, i inch thick, will make
the bottom part of the two sides, and two more the
same length, 18 inches deep, will make the top part.

First of all get out an oak 'stem-piece, 2 feet yi-inch
long, beveled off like a wedge, as shown in the detail plan
of it on the drawing; then make the tfansom, as the after
end of the box is called, out of 2-inch oak. The shape
of this transom is also drawn out, 5 feet 8 inches long by
2 feet I inch wide. Nail the lower plank of the sides
to the stem so that they make a large Y-shape.

The greatest difficulty in building such skiffs is to get
both sides alike and not to have her lopsided, one side
flattened and the other bulged out more.

To guard against this, build her on the wooden floor of
a barn or shed, so that you can stretch a chalk line and
so get a true center line to work by. Square across -from
this line, where the transom is to go, and measure out the

Sendingjhe ^def^nks ~ - - ,
arouna braces nailed fo
/*e f/oor- It pays fo /aytha
par/ tY/fie uor/iouf aarc/My

various widths as given at 5-foot intervals and put up-
rights, braced strongly, so that when you bend the side
planks around them they will not collapse. The measure-
ments for cutting the shape on the bottom of the lower
side planks is shown on the next page.

When the two side planks are nailed to the stem, brace
the latter securely to the floor so the boat is bottom up,
and bend the two sides in together around the upright
braces until they touch the ends of the transom, which
you should take particular pains to see is exactly square
across to the center line.

113

114

The sides will not fii flat ; they wUl only touch on one
edge of the transom ends, so cut them to the bevel that
will make a perfect fit before you nail them fast and al-
ways remember in boat work to make the seams so that the
outer edges are open a trifle more than the inner edges.
If it were a box you would try to make the outer edges
invisible, but in boat work this is reversed for the reason

7h^ lopsided boat is cjh^t mosf umateurs produce in
fheir Haste to ^et ttie boat done . You mt£?M. belter t<3l<e a ttffe
morv time and trouble and see ttiaf allis sifaareand trc/e.

that putty has to be put in, so that as the wood swells
it will squeeze up and be watertight. Some seams will
require cotton being tucked in before the putty is applied,
where the seams are open a little, and so long as the
seams are slightly wedge-shaped, even if the two edges are
apart on the inside, the cotton will be jammed in and get
tighter and tighter the more it is pushed from tl outside,
while, if the seam be the other way, the pressure pushes the
cotton through and a leaky boat is the result.

When these side planks are fastened at each end and
while the sides are held irLtrue shape, nail a strip of oak,
i>4-inch thick and 2 inches deep, so it comes just flush
with the edge of the side planks to give a better nailing

ia practically the same as cotton batting, only it. is strung
out into long strings and is of slightly cheaper quality. ^

If you cannot buy calking cotton take ordinary cotton
and string it out and roll it into a cord between th'e palm
of your hand and your knee. After this has been driven
into the seams mix up some thin white lead pair^t and paint
each seam to hold the cotton in. When this paint is dry
putty the seams, paint the bottom with two gqod coats of
red lead paint and nail on the flat keel and chine, or edge
pieces to take the wear and tear off the bottom planks,
when the boat lays aground or slides up on a gravel bed.
The chine pieces are shown 6 inches wide, but they can
be any width, and as three inches will bend around easier
some will no doubt use them that width.

When the construction has progressed this far knock the
braces out from under the boat and turn it right side up,
settmg it on logs to raise it off the ground anJ so as to
preserve the proper sweep the bottom is intended to have.
Then cut the upper plank to its proper shape and when two
of these are ready, one for each side, rivet or nail in the
upright posts of 2-inch by 2-inch oak at the various places
shown bv the measurements in the drawing. Be sure to
see that these are all standinp^ plumb before you nail
them in.

As most of these boats will be built for use on fresh
water rivers and lakes, it is not necessary to use galvanized
iron nails or copper rivets as is necessary on salt water, but
plain iron nails will do as Jong as they are kept painted.
Punch each nailhead in about an eighth of an inch below
the surface of the plank and then fill the hole with putty.

The jogs cut in the top edge of the top olank on the

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surface for the nails from the bottom planks. Here is
where the friend who has built a box can help. The bot-
tom boards should be about a foot in width and laid across
from side to side — lay them close and so the edges make
as perfect a seam as possible. Keep the nailheads in, so
when you saw them off flush with the side planks you will
not ruin the saw teeth by coming in contact with z. nail-
head. To make the bottom watertight the seams should be
calked with cotton, then painted and puttied. Boat cotton

side make the various heights of af.er cattn, cockj-it and
forward deck.

To stiffen the bottom plankiner nail threi 2-inch yellow
pine stringers forward and aft, which means from front
to back in nautical lingo — one right down the middle
of the boat and one on each side, leaving a space of i8-
inches between them. These should be nailed from the un-
derside of the bottom planks, as they being of pine or
cedar, are thinner and softer wood, and the nails, by going

IME

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J/itft furn /ler r/^M jii/e up as ihown aio^e, /as fen //? uphi^M oak pipsrs am/ i):ni/ Sip n/anHs on a.-! ^/i^wn

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into the harder wood last, will hold stronger than if
nailed from above into the soft planking.

If the boat leaks at all, and to keep your feet dry from
any rain water that may be in the boat, a flooring can
be laid crossways resting on these three stringers and
the chine battens at the edges of the, sides. To strengthen
the corner forward where the stem joins the bottom, as
that gets all the ramming up against the shore in making
landings, cut a 2-inch thick knee and nail it securely to
both batten and inside edge of the stem.

A false stem is then fitted to the real stem. The ends of
the side planks and face of real stem can be trued up with
a sharp plane, so that the false stem makes a perfect joint
■ — to insure water tightness calk the seams where the sides
and stem meet and paint them. The false stem can be
pointed off sharp for about one foot up from the bottom.
It should be left square from there up, so two small oak
knees can be bolted to it to steady the 3-inch by 3-inch
deck beam that sets on top of the false stem and against
the real stem's face.

Three other beams shpuld then be notched into the
top of the side planks, as shown in the plans, to carry the
platform deck forward, which is really the front porch, as
it were, the place where everybody enters the boat. The
platform itself, of about %-inch stuff, is then laid fore
and aft over these beams.

The second frame from the bow is to be left sticking up
through the deck to form a "hitching post."

To build the roof top, first get out the bands that run
around the top ends of the upright posts. These should be
of quarter sawed oak about Yz to ^-inch thick, 4 inches
deep over the forward cockpit and increased to 7 inches in
depth around the after cabin part. The bands across the
ends are the same depth and will have to be sawed to
shape out of wide planks to get the arch shape, which not
only sheds the water as a roof should, but in appearance
is far better than flat beams. The beams which go across
from side to side are 3 inches in depth by Ij4 inches
thick, of oak, and have an arch up of 4 inches. It takes <
considerably more wood to cut out these curved beams

and many men will be tempted to use flat ones, but if
this is done the side suppcfts should be carried uo higher,
so as to give more headroom under the roof.

Nail the ends of the beams to the oak bands and be
careful first to bore a hole for the nail or you may split
the beam and make a shaky roof.

Over these beams lay a thin roof of J^-inch or J/2-inch
tongued and grooved pine, with the smooth, side down
paint the top and then stretch wide thin cloth, such as
sheeting, over it tacked fast around the edges and laps
and then give that two or three thin coats of paint. Cover
the ed^-es of the cloth where it is turned over and tacked
into the edge of the pine top, with a half round oak mould-
ing about 94 of an inch wide.

It will add to the appearance of the roof if you also
screw or brad on a ^-inch half round oak moulding even
-with the lower edge of the bands. A similar effect is pro-
duced on the top edge of the side planks of the' boat by
nailing on a cap about M-inch thick if it is neatly rounded
over on both the inside and outside edges. This cap wiU
be wider because it has to span from the side planks over
to and cover up the upper edges of the vertical staving
in the cockpit.

This staving and all the bulkheads can be of the same
kind of wood, about 3^-inch pine, in narrow widths, with
its edges tongued and grooved.

An enclosed toilet room is shown built in at the after
end. The space opposite may be used as a sort of galley,
where simple meals can be cooked on an oil stove.

An arrangement of leats is shown which an owner
may change to suit his own ideas. My idea is to leave
the forward cockpit nractically clear of everything so
chairs can be used for seats as they are more comfortable
and allow of a change of position when desired.

Two partial bulkheads separate the engine-room, which
is aft from the forward part of the boat, and, besides
providing a space to carry the gasolene tanks, cylindrical
steel or copper boiler shaped ones, and also water coolers,
it serves to somewhat deaden th° engine noises.

116

.*!^

^j^^c^g^i^^^^pt

eft

Part II

THE motor installation is simple enough with room to
get all around and at the motor, which is set en top
of two 3-inch oak beds that are nailed to the floors
and braced at each end, particularly at the fljrwheel end,
by two oak knees, which distribute the strain and mate-
rially steady the motor against rocking, and yet they need
not come so far above the floor as to be stumbling blocks
for people passing by it.

The axle of the sternwheel is high enough to enable you
to set the motor on a level base, but before you set the
motor make your paddle wheel and all its gear, and from
this you can get the proper height to set your motor.

To carry the paddle wheels bolt a yellow pine beam 2
inches by 6 inches, 7 feet long, against the inner face of
the frames, through a hole chiseled through the transom,
so they extend out back of the transom 3 feet Their outer
ends can be lightened up a little by tapering them to a
depth of 4 inches at the after end. Rivet on a block
slightly wedge-shaped so that its inner face stands fore
and aft. This gives a broader landing for the bearings
of the paddle wheel shaft. Another stout bearer of yel-
low pine 8 inches deep by 3 inches thick is mortised
through the transom in the center, so it lands right on top
of the floor of the boat and to which it is nailed. It is
tapered down in height as it goes forward until it is the
same depth as the 2 by 2 inch keelson in the center at the
after end of the engine. It also tapers up on the after end
until it is only 3 inches by 3 inches. This bearer carries
the shaft bearings where the worm wheel works into a
gear wheel keyed to the paddle wheel shaft or axle.

This worm and gear wheel you will have to buy, and
it should be a 4 to I gear: that is, for four revolutions of
the shaft from the motor the axle of the paddle wheel will
turn over once. This, at 300 revolutions and 25 per cent,
slip, will give a speed of about 8 miles an hour.

(The outer end of the motgr shaft will turn in two bear-
ings bolted to the outer end of the central beam, one just
in front of and one just back of the worm gear, with ball
bearing washers between to reduce the friction caused by
the thrust that will come upon these bearings when going
ahead or backing. The bearings for the axle of the wheel

should be fitted with grease cups on top, and be careful
to see that the axle bearings are perfectly level so the
wheel will not be lop-sided.

Various other means are sometimes employed for driv-
ing the paddle wheel. Some use a sprocket-wheel set-off
on one end of the axle, with a sprocket chain connection to
a smaller wheel on the end of the motor shaft with the
motor set so it extends crossways in the boat. This is a
very simple method of transmitting the power, but its
objections are the difficulty experienced in taking up the

-GreaxCi/p

iVheeJ

. Wheel ■»!

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/Irranc^ement of bearirx^s for <3)c/e of /he
^fern i<jheef ark^f erk^f of shaff

slack of the chain which soon becomes loose, .and the fact
that the chain, if it breaks, goes to the bottom of the river
and leaves the boat helpless. With the chain transmission
the wheel is made in one piece and the paddles are much
larger, and for that reason cause more vibration than the
method we have shown. Here the paddle wheel is made
in two parts, with the transmission gear in a straight line
back of the motor. The middle of the wheel axle being
supported at the level gear and both ends, makes a
steadier running wheel and, what is of far more" import-
ance to the smoothness of the boat's running, is the fact
that the wheel by being in two sections with the paddles
set one slightly in advance of the other the shock of the
paddle hitting the water is only half as severe as it would
be with one wide paddle board clear across, and its action
always having one or two paddles submerged all the time.
This is an important feature of sternwheel propulsion.

for if one bucket is just comingout and another just enter-
ing, the load on the engine is at that moment very light,
and then heavy the next minute as the bucket goes under,
producing a jerky effect on the motor and gears.

Another point to be observed in sternwheel propulsion
is to have the paddle wheel as large as possible, so that
as the paddles come down into the water the boards, or
buckets as some call them, will not come down so as to
slap the* water with a shock, but will dip in as near edge-
wise as possible.

The wheel in this particular boat is 3-feet 6-inches in
diameter, there being eight arms bolted at the center to
a circular iron plate 10 or 12 inches in diameter about
j4-inch thick, with a heavy hub that fits on the 2-inch
axle, and to which it is fastened by means of an iron key
driven into a slot cut half out of the axle and half out of
the hub. The arms may be braced out near the buckets
by means of an iron hoop bolted to each arm or by oak
braces jammed between each arm.

Both wheels may be exactly alike, but when you cut the
keyways to hold them on the axle cut one so it sets the

Phn of rudders for
^tern Wheeler

Teoo styles ofrcidder
han(fer-5 - a strdp and
3 ^crecoeye.

ft comparison bef^caeen a 3b"<3nd<3 2^"diamel-er
paddle u/heeU both to dip W shows ro hoco wach
beH-eradi/antcXfe the bcfcl<ef on the /ar^'er i^hee)
■hih ■the water- /ess s/ap and wore push.

paddles or buckets about 6 inches in advance of those on
the other wheel.

As paddle wheels throw considerable water, they are
often partly covered by a shield to keep it from flying
about. This, in our case, is taken care of by building up
the after end of the boat with a staved up partition that

can be made re-
movable all in
one piece or in
sections to enable
you to get at the
paddle wheel and
rudders when-
ever any adjust-
ment may be nec-
essary there, and
yet it will be
tight enough to
keep out any wa-
ter that may
splash up against
it.

The paddle
wheel is kept
back from the
hull for ".the rea-
son that the wheel
works much more
efficiently if it is
just on the crest
of the stern
wave, which will
be about where
we have , located
it at the speed she will usually make.

The buckets or paddles should be of hardwood, 21 inches
long by 6 inches wide and from Y% to ^^ of an inch thick,
fastened to the paddle wheel arms by two 5-16-inch car-
riage bolts into each arm. They should be made as inter-
changeable as possible, and one or two -extra padclles al-
ways carried on board to replace aiiy that may be smashed
by coming in contact, with a piece of driftwood. ■* If all
the holes are bored tHe, same distance apart a new paddle
already bored.for the ^ bolts can be substituted in .a few
moments.

The steering gear consists of two oak rudders 13' inches
long by 12 inches deep, with their after ends cut so as to
clear the paddle wheels, hinged to the oak transom, so
they drop 3 inches below the bottom and set in 10 inches
from the sides so that they will not project beyond the
sides when turned around to an angle of 45 degrees.

The rudders are hinged
by means of two eye bolts
bolted th-rough the transom,
as shown on the plans, and
tvvo eyebolts or iron straps,
about I inch wide and y%-
inch thick bolted to the sides
of the rudders, . and bent
aroutid their forward 'edge
so as to form loops, with an
iron bolt about J^-inch in
diameter ■' dropped through
them. The upper ' eye or
loop in the rudder, coming
just under the eye in the
stern, prevents the ' rudder
lifting, and the lower eye,
being just above the one in
the stern, prevents the rud-
der dropping. This is as
simple and yet as effective a
style of rudder hanging as
you can get.

By linking the after edge of
both rudders together with a
flat iron bar 4 feet long, ij^
inches wide and about 3-32
of an inch thick the wheel
ropes .which lead forward

118

over pulleys or sheaves can be shackled into holes drilled can be had free from gnats and mosquitoes, and the for-

through the outer ends of this bar, and then lead forward ward part protected by curtains tacked to the roof band

to the steering wheel on the lefthand side, so a person can and arranged to roll up when not needed or dropped to

sit on the short seat built just forward of the partition and keep off the hot sun.

steer in comfort. « Such a boat will afford a lot of pleasure to a man and

By fitting wire netting screens around the after end of 'his family on waters where an ordinary motorboat could

the boat between the roof stanchions, sleeping quarters not go at all.

119

Motorboat Handbook

VOLUME I.

(NOW IN THE FOURTH EDITION)

A Reference book for the Expert, a Text book
for the Novice; a work that should be kept on
board every motorboat for constant reference. It
is helpful when you buy or build a boat and ever
afterwards. This book is a necessity to the man
who owns or expects to own a motorboat. Written
so that the novice cam understand.

CON TE NTS

PART I

Cabin Types

Hauling Out Motorboats

Awnings

How to Build a Crab

Comfort in Steering

Care of the Boat in Winter

Sails on Motorboats

Striking the Water Line

Motorboat Forms

Scraping and Painting

Lights and Flags

Patching Up

Marine Railway Holsters

Racing Bottoms

Putting the Boat Overboard

PART II

Moorings for Motorboats

Motors from the Buyer's Standpoint

Why Hulls Strain

Reversing Devices

The Ballasting of Motorboats

Propellers

Frame Construction

Ignition

Bending Frames

Electricity as Applied to Motor Ignition

Planking

A Talk on Common Ignition Troubles

The Garboard Strake

Electric Circuits for Motorboats

Forms of Fastenings Used in Boat

Building

Carburetors and Vaporizers

Deck Construction

Adaptation of the Storage Battery for Marine

Bow and Stem Types

Purposes

Motor Installation

Nautical Etiquette

Steering Gear

The Way to Organize a Motorboat Club

Printed on fine paper, handsomely bound in cloth,
over 200 illustrations.

Price, Postpaid, One Dollar

THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING COMPANY

II0-II2 WEST 40th STREET

NEW YORK CITY

120

Motorboat Handbook

VOLUME II.

This volume is a companion work with Volume
I, described on the preceding page. It is fully as
valuable, and nearly everyone who had read Volume
I ordered a copy of this second volume as soon as
it was announced. It is printed and bound in
uniform style, and these two volumes contain all
the information that a boat owner can desire.

CONTENTS

Comfort at the Wheel

Following in a Wake '

Steering

The Factor of Speed

Seaworthiness of Motorboats

Speed Formula

Ground Tackle

Heating the Fuel Charge

Cabins on Small Motorboats

Cause of Back-firing

Cutting a Rabbet

Corrosion of Water Jacket

Marine Runways

Ignition Inquiries

Gangways

Discussion of Adiabatic Compression Formula

The Table of Offsets

Revolutions

How to Project a Transom

Fuel Consumption, Two and Four Cycle

Points for Boat Buyers

Compression

Fitting Out

Valve Springs

Evolution of the Marine Motor

Pre-ignition

Reversing Devices

Steel Hull Cruiser

Motorboat Propellers

Gasolene Tanks Do Not Explode

Measurements, Ratings and Handicaps

Fly-wheels

Selected Questions and Answers

Importance of Refinement under Water

Cementing the Bottom

Crank Case Explosion— Converted Sailboat

Applying Graphite to the Bottom

An Adjustable Spar

The Waterline

The Brake Test Explained

Paint for Exhaust Pipes

Ridding a Boat of Water by Its Velocity

Right of Way

Siphon Bilge Pump

To Determine Horsepower

Yacht Flags (color plate)

How to Reduce Plans of Boat

Flags on Motorboats

Stuffing Box Packing

Storm Warning Signals

Determination of Propeller Pitch

U. S. Weather Signals

Twin Screw Installation

Storm Signals (color plate)

Squatting

U. S. Weather Signals (color plate)

Propeller Queries

Signal Code for Use on Motorboats

Propeller Shaft Inclination

International Code Flags (color plate)

Price, Postpaid, One Dollar

THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING COMPANY

IIO-II2 WEST 40th STREET

NEW YORK CITY

121

Motor Boat Handbook

Vol. Ill

Fully Illustrated — For Motorboat Owners

TABLE OF CONTENTS

How the Shape of the Hull Affects the

Strength of a Boat
Keels, Stems and Sterns
Frames, Floors and Stringers
Planking, Decks and Interior Work
Fastenings Used in Motorboat Construction
Paints and Their Use
Flexibility in Boats
Bilge Pumps for Motorboats
What Makes a Dry Sea Boat?
How to Make a Scale for Any Boat Design
How to Weigh a Racing Boat
Racing Buoys
Riding to a Sea Drag
Overhauling a Two-Cycle Motor
Overhauling a Four-Cycle Motor
Some Exhaust Installations I Have Met
Valves and Valve Timing
Simple Motor Wiring

Something About Electric Lighting Outfits
The Motor's Electrical Equipment

Price, One Dollar, X?.v^'ht.
THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING CO.
110-112 WEST 40th STREET - NEW YORK

122

THE MARINE MOTOR tt.'v^l.n'lTvl

By A. E, POTTER

THE ONLY COMPLETE 900K ON MARINE MOTORS

Table of Contents

Chapter I. — Principles and Types.

CHAPTER II.— Construction.

Proportions — Compression — Crank Case or Pri-
mary Compression — Piston Displacement — Bal-
ancing Motors — Wrist Pin offset with Crank
Shaft — Slow Speed Two-Stroke-Cycle — Medium
Speed Two-Stroke-Cycle — High Speed Two-
Stroke-Cycle — Two-Port Motors, Enclosed
Crank Case — Two-Port Motors, Open Crank
Case — Three-Port Motors, Enclosed Crank
Case — Three-Port Motors, Open Crank Case —
Combined Two- and Three-Port Motors — Posi-
tive Two-Stroke Inlet Valves — Four-Stroke-
Cycle Slow Speed Motors — Four-Stroke-Cycle
„ Medium Speed Motors — Four-Stroke-Cycle
High Speed Motors — Reversing and Air Start-
ing Motors — Self-Starting Marine Motors —
Double-Acting Marine Motors — Automobile
Motors for Motorboats and Marine Motors for
Automobiles — Kerosene, Producer Gas and Fuel
Oil Motors.

Chapter III. — Motor Parts and Functions.

Two-Stroke-Cycle Cylinders — Four-Stroke-Cy-
cle Cylinders — Two-Stroke-Cycle Ports — Two-
Stroke-Cycle Cylinder Heads — Four-Stroke-Cy-
cle Cylinder Heads — Pistons Two- and Four-
Stroke-Cycle — Piston Rings — Connecting Rods
— Crank Shafts — Fly-Wheels — Wrist and Crank
Pins — Crank and Cam Shaft Gears — Cam Shafts
— Motor Valves — Rotary and Sleeve Valves —
Valve Springs — Valve Location — Valve Stem
Guides — Valve Operation — Inlet Manifolds —
Exhaust Manifolds — Priming and Relief Cocks
— Bearings — Eccentrics and Eccentric Straps —
Water Pumps and Location — Check Valves for
Marine Motors — MuiBers and Muffling — Re-
verse Gears and Clutches — Bilge Pumps — Air
Pumps — Motor Governors — Mechanical and
Rear Starters — Propeller Shafts and Shaft
Couplings — Stuffing Boxes and Stern Bearings
— Propellers.

Chapter IV. — Ignition.

Primary Batteries and Their Care — Secondary
Batteries or Accumulators and Their Care —
Battery Connections — Mechanical Electric Gen-
erators — Magnetos — Dynamos — Switches — Tim-
ers — Distributors — Spark or Induction Coils —
Jump Spark Coils — Master Vibrators and Con-
densers — Plug Spark Coils— Magnetic Spark
Plugs — Air Gaps — Double Ignition — Ignition
Synchronism, Speed and Direction — Single
Spark Battery Systems.

Chapter V. — Carburetion,

Chapter VI. — Lubrication.

Lubricants — Graphite as a Lubricant — Testing
and Selection of Lubricants.

Chapter VII. — Selection of Motors.

Speed Flexibility — Second Hand Motors —
Tables.

Chapter VIII. — Installation.

Twin-Screw Installation — Final Inspection.

Chapter IX. — Operation,
Cautions.

Chapter X. — Troubles and Cares.

Refusal to Start — Missing Explosions — Sluggish
Operation — Uneven Running — Gradual Slowing
Down — Running in Cold Weather — S u d d e n
Stopping — Cause and Remedy for Noisy Mo-
tors — Electrolysis and Corrosion — Adjusting
Carbureter s — Blowing Back Through Car-
bureter.

Chapter XI. — Testing and Efficiency.

Testing the Compression, Cylinder and Crank
Case — Fuel Consumption Tests — Consumption
of Fuel — Efficiency of Marine Motors — ^Mean
Effective Pressure — Causes of Poor Efficiency.

Chapter XII. — Care and Repair.

Winter Care — Overhauling the Motor — Dis-
sembling — Re-Assembling — Emergency Repair
Kits.

FITTING OUT TIME IS HERE. THIS BOOK WILL HELP YOU OUT

Vrice ^1.00, "Postpaid Anytvher*
MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING CO.. 110 West 40th Street. N.Y. City

123

CANADA

Follow these Charts for your
Summer's Cruise—

These Motor Boat Charts cover some of the most pic-
turesque Waterways of North America, and will lead you
through marvelously beautiful country. They are carefully
drawn, giving details that make navigation simple and easy.

MfiANY

ScASTtCTOM ;,

nut i< •

iMocnit

Chart Ko. 1. — The Upper Hudion River, the Canal> and
Inland Lakes of the Sute of New York.

Okart No. 2. — Lake Champlain.

Obart No. 2-a. — Lake George, with information how to
Miter and leave the lake.

Oliart No. 8. — The Richelieu River, from Rousei Point,
Lake Champlain, to St. Johns, P. Q.

Cbart No. 4. — St Johns, P. Q., to Serel, oa the St.
Lawrence, via the Chambly Canal and Richelieu River.

Chart No. 6. — The St. Lawrence River, from Sorel to
Montreal.

CSAIO'B A B C OF THE HIVEK ST. LAWXENOE, a
Thousand Island Segrlon.

Chart No. 6. — Ottawa River from Ste. Anne to
Grenville.

Chart No. 7. — Ottawa River from Grenville
to Ottawa.

Chart No, 8. — Ottawa, Ont., to Smith's Falls, Ont., vis
Rideau River and Rideau Canal.

Chart No. 9. — Smith's Falls to Kingston, including the
Rideau Lakes.

Chart No. 10. — The Eastern End of Lake Ontario, show-
ing the course across the lake from Kingston to Oswego, also
the entrance to the St. Lawrence River, the Harbors of
Kingston, Sacketts Harbor and Oswego.

complete guide to this famous Siver, Including the Wonderful

iv*^

Price, $1.00 each; or the entire set for $8.00
Any six charts for $5.00

ORDER BY NlAffiER POSTAGE PREPAID ANYWHERE

THE MOTOR BOAT PUBLISHING CO., 110 West 40th Street, NEW YORK

ik:

124

14 DAY USE

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LOAN DEPT.

is due on the last date stampe

3n the date to which renewec

Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.

This book is due on the last date stamped below, or y
on the date to which renewed.

prr'n } p

fiC/^frs J

mi5m-\2m

APR 14 1961

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General Libraiy
University of California 'K 1 r IC
Berkeley U I ■ r^