BANCROFT LiBRABY Copyright. 1879, by Henry T. Williams. PALACE-CAR LIFE ON THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. ADAMS & BISHOP'S The Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. CONTAINING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF KAILROAD ROUTES ACROSS THE CONTINENT, ALL PLEASURE RESORTS AND PLACES OF MOST NOTED SCENERY IN THE FAR WEST, ALSO OF ALL CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, U. S. FORTS, SPRINGS, LAKES, MOUNTAINS, ROUTES OF SUMMER TRAVEL, BEST LOCALITIES FOR HUNTING, FISHING, SPORTING, AND ENJOY- MENT, WITH ALL NEEDFUL INFORMATION FOR THE PLEASURE TRAVELER, MINER, SETTLER, OR BUSINESS MAN. A COMPLETE TRAVELER'S GUIDE AND ALL POINTS OF BUSINESS OB PLEASURE TRAVEL TO CALIFORNIA, COLORADO, NEBRASKA, WYOMING, UTAH, NEVADA, MONTANA, THE MINES AND MINING OF THE TERRITORIES, THE LANDS OF THE PACIFIC COAST, THE WONDERS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE SCENERY OF THE SIERRA NEVADAS, THE COL- ORADO MOUNTAINS, THE BIG TREES, THE GEYSERS, THE YOSEMITB, AND THE YELLOWSTONE. FREDERICK E. SHEARER, EDITOR. WITH SPECIAL CONTBIBUTIdXB BY PBOF. P. V. HAYDEN, CLAKENCE KING, CAPT. BUTTON, A. C. PEALE, JOAQUIN MILLER, AND J. B. DAVIS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY THOMAS MORAN, A. C. WARREN, W. SNYDER, F. SCHELL, H. W. TROY, A. WILL. ENGRAVINGS BY MEEDER & CHUBB. Price, $1.50 Railroad Edition, Flexible Covert, 332 pp. " $2.00 Full Cloth, Stiff Covers, 364 pp. NEW YOEK: ADAMS & BISHOP, PUBLISHERS, 1884. PREFACE, "The Pacific Tourist, "first prepared under the personal supervision of Henry T. Williams, was projected on an immense scale and completed at commensurate cost. It represented over nine months' actual time spent in personal travel over a line of 2,500 miles getting with faithful- ness all possible facts of interest and the latest information. Over forty artists, engravers and correspondents were employed, and the work completed at an expense of nearly $20,000: the result being the most elaborate, the costliest and the handsomest Guide Book in the world. Before the book was issued the Editor and his Assistants had traversed the Continent more than thirty times. The favor with which the work was received is apparent, not only in the cordial endorsements of the railroad officials, but in the reception of the work by the public more than a hundred thousand copies having been sold in the first year and also in the fact that similar books have entered the field as rivals, but no one has attempted the vain task of equalling it. That which was true at first is still true viz. : that in this volume is combined every possible fact to guide and instruct the pleasure traveler, business man, miner, or settler, who turns his face westward. Herein are found every Bailroad Station, and time of the principal Railroads, all Stage Routes, Distances, and Fare to all principal points; all the wonders of Western Scenery, Springs, Mountains, Canyons, Lakes, Deserts, Rocks, and Gardens, are here described in detail. The trans-ocean traveler from Europe to the Pacific will find all needful information of routes on the Pacific Ocean; and the traveler eastward from Australia and Japan will find invaluable help for his route to New York. The Big Bonanza Mines are also described in glowing language, and add to the interest of these pages. The Representative Men of the Far West, who have been the energetic projectors and sup- porters of all its active and successful enterprises, are illustrated in our pages. It is also true that it has kept pace with the progress of the country, being changed from time to time as the development of the resources and the increase of the people demand. No other volume in the world contains so many views of the Scenery of the West, or conducts the traveler over so many miles of interesting, varied and enchanting scenery. With the progress of railroads, new fields of travel are opened, favorite resorts are made more accessible, like the Yosemite by the Madera route, or the Yellowstone wo. the Utah Northern Railroad, and new ones, like Monterey so charming (California), have been discovered and created. In short, since the opening of the Pacific Railroad, there have been developed an immense field of mining industry, and many new and remarkable places of wonderful scenery and pleasure travel. The attractions of the Rocky Mountains and Sierras have become world-famous, and regions, un- known five or ten years ago, have been discovered, which far transcend the liveliest imagination in. their scenic beauty and glorious enjoyment. Those who crossed the Continent once in enjoyment of the scenery of the Far West or in search of health, can now return to the same line of travel, and spend an entire summer in visiting Resorts, Mountains, Lakes, Springs, Canyons, which were recently unknown or inaccessible, but are now easily reached. The Alpine Pass, the highest railroad point in America, with its views of the Spanish Peaks, has been brought to notice by the extension of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad; also the grandeur of the Mountains and Lakes of the San Juan mining region. The wonderful richness of the mines at Leadville is hardly greater than the beauties of the scenery by which it is reached, either from Canyon City, or Denver, or Georgetown. By the opening of the Colorado Central Railroad, easy access is given to the wonders of Clear Creek Canyon, the ascent of Gray's Peak, the Middle Park, the Hot Sulphur Springs, the beauties of Estes Park and Long's Peak, all of which are of remarkable interest. Special assistance has been rendered by many persons which contributes to the interest and accuracy of its statements, but their names are too numerous to be inserted. Mention must be made, however, of Professor F. V. HAYDEN, the celebrated leader of the United States Geological Exploring Expedition, who has rendered valuable aid to make this Guide complete and reliable, and written for it an. admirable account of the Wonders of the Yellowstone; and of CLARENCE KING, who also had charge of the United States Geological Survey, and has given a description of the Shoshone Falls. THOMAS MORAN, who more than any other artist has drawn sketches of the Wonders of the West, and ALBERT BIERSTADT, the most celebrated of painters of American Scenery, have each added to the Guide rich embellishments and illustrations. That every traveler may have "BON VOYAGE" is the labor and wish of the Editor. FREDERIC E. SHEARER. Bancroft Library Wonders of Scenery of the Rocky Mountains, PACIFIC COAST AND THE TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAIL ROADS. THE grandest of American scenery borders trie magnificent route of the Pacific Railroads. Since their completion, the glorious views of mountain grandeur in The Yoxemitc, The Yellow- stone, have become known. The sublimities of Culnrado, the lincky Mountain*, canons of Utah, and the Sierra Nevada*, have become famous. The attractions of the Far West for mining, stock raising and agriculture have added mil- lions of wealth and population. The glorious mountain climate, famed for its invigorating effects have attracted tourists and health seekers from the whole world. The golden land of California, its seaside pleasure resorts, its fertile grain fields, fruit gardens and flowers, have given irresistible charms to visitors ; until now, a tour across the Continent opens to the traveler a succession of scenes, worthy the efforts of a life time to behold. Industrie have arisen by the opening of this preat trans-continental line which were never ex- pected or dreamed of by the projectors ; the richest of mineral discoveries and the most en- couraging of agricultural settlements have alike resulted, where little was thought of, and stran- gest of all^ the tide of travel from Europe to Asia, China, Japan and the distant isles of the Pacific Ocean, now crosses the American Conti- nent, with far more speed and greater safety. Palace Car Life on the Pacific Kail- road. In no part of the world is travel made so easy and comfortable as on the Pacific Rail- road. To travelers from the East it is a con- stant delight, and to ladies and families it is accompanied with absolutely no fatigue or discom- fort. One lives at home in the Palace Car with as much true enjoyment as in the home drawing- room, and with the constant change of scenes afforded from the car window, it is far more en- joyable than the saloon of a fashionable steamer. For an entire week or more, as the train leisurely crosses the Continent, the little section and berth allotted to you, so neat and clean, so nicely fur- nished and kept, becomes your home. Here you sit and read, play your games, indulge in social conversation and glee, and if fortunate enough to possess good company of friends to join you, the overland tour becomes an intense delight. The sleeping-cars from New York to Chicago, proceeding at their rushing rate of forty or more miles per hour, give to travelers no idea of the true comfort of Pullman car life. Indeed the first thousand miles of the journey to Chicago or St. Louis has more tedium and wearisomeness, and dust and inconvenience than all the rest of the journey. Do not judge of the whole trip by these first days out. From Chicago westward to Omaha the cars are far finer, and traveling more luxurious, likewise the rate of speed is slower and the motion of the train more easy than on roads farther east. At Council Bluffs or Kansas City, as you view the long train just ready to leave the depot for its overland trip, the appearance of strength, massiveness and majestic power you will admit to be exceedingly beautiful and im- pressive; this feeling is still more intensified when a day or so later, alone out upon the up- land plains, with no living object in sight, you stand at a little distance and look down upon the long train, the handsomest work of science ever made for the comfort of earth's travelers. The slow rate of speed, which averages but twenty to thirty miles per hour, day and night, produces a peculiarly smooth, gentle and easy motion, most soothing and agreeable. The straight track, which for hundreds of miles is without a curve, avoids all swinging motions of the cars ; sidelong bumps are unknown. The cars are connected with the Miller buffer and platform, and make a solid train, without the dis- comforts of jerks and jolts. And the steady, easy jog of the train, as : *t leisurely moves west- ward, gives a feeling of genuine comfort, such as no one ever feels or enjoys in any other part of the world. A Pullman Pacific car train in motion is a grand and beautiful sight too, from within as well as from without. On some lovely, balmy, sum- mer day, when the fresh breezes across the prai- ries induce us to open our doors and windows, there may often be seen curious and pleasant sights. Standing at the rear of the train, and with all doors open, there is an unobstructed view along the aisles throughout the entire length. On either side of the train, are the prairies, where the eye sees but wildness, and even desolation, then looking back upon this long aisle or avenue, he sees civilization and comfort and luxury. how sharp the contrast. The first day's ride over the Pacific Bail- road westward is a short one to nightfall, but it carries one through the beautiful undulating prairies of eastern Nebraska, the best settled portions of the State, where are its finest homes and richest soil. Opening sud- denly into the broad and ever grand Valley of the Platte, the rich luxuriant meadow-grass, in the warmth of the afternoon sun, make even the most desponding or prosai ,feel there is beauty in prairie life. On the second day out from Omaha the traveler is fast ascending the high plains and summits of the Eocky Mountains. The little villages of prairie dogs interest and amuse every one. Then come in sight the distant summits of Long's Peak and the Colorado Mountains. Without scarcely asking the cause, the tourist is full of glow and enthusiasm. He is alive with enjoyment, and yet can scarcely tell why. The great plains themselves seem full of interest. Ah! It is this keen, beautiful, refreshing, oxygenated, invigorating, toning, beautiful, en- livening mountain air which is giving him the glow of nature, and quickening him into greater appreciation of this grand impressive country. The plains themselves are a sight most forci- ble; shall we call them the blankness of desolation ? No, for every inch of the little turf beneath your feet is rich ; the soil contains the finest of food in the little tufts of buffalo grass, on which thousands and millions of sheep and cattle may feed the year through. But it is the vastness of wide-extending, uninhabited, lifeless, uplifted solitude. If ever one feels belittled, 'tis on the plains, when each individual seems but a little mite, amid this majesty of loneliness. But the traveler finds with the Pullman car life, amid his enjoyments of reading, playing, conversation, making agreeable acquaintances, and with con- stant glances from the car window, enough to give him full and happy use of his time. Night time comes, and then as your little berths are made up, and you snugly cover yourself up, under double blankets (for the night air is always crisp and cold), perhaps you will often witness the sight of a prairie fire, or the vivid flashec of lightning ; some of nature's greatest scenes hardly less interesting than the plains, and far more fearful and awe-inspiring. Then turning to rest, you will sleep amid the easy roll of the car, as sweetly and refreshingly as ever upon . the home-bed. How little has ever been writ- ten of " Night on the Pacific Railroad," the de- lightful, snug, rejuvenating sleeps on the Pacific Railroad. The lulling, quiet life by day, and the sound, refreshing repose by night, are to the system the best of health restorers. Were there but one thing tourists might feel most gratitude for, on their overland trip, 'tis their enjoyment of the ex- hilarating mountain air by day, and the splendid rest by night. But as our train moves on, it in- troduces us to new scenes. You soon ascend the Rocky Mountains at Sherman, and view there the vast mountain range, tli3 "Back Bone of the Continent," and again descend and thunder amid the cliffs of Echo and Weber Canons. You carry with you your Pullman house and all its comforts, and from your little window, as from your little boudoir at home, you will see the mighty wonders of the Far West. It is impossible to tell of the pleasures and joys of the palace ride you will have five days it Avill make you so well accustomed to car life, you feel, when you drop upon the wharf of San Francisco, that you had left genuine comfort behind, and even the hotel, with its cosy parlor and cheerful fire, has not its full recompense. Palace car life has every day its fresh and novel sights. No railroad has greater variety and contrasts of scenery than the Pacific Kail- road. The great plains of Nebraska and Wy- oming are not less impressive than the great Humboldt Desert. The rock majesties of Echo and Weber are not more Avonderful than the curiosities of Great Salt Lake and the City of Deseret. And where could one drop down and finish his tour more grandly and beautifully than from the vast ice-towering summits of the Sierras into the golden grain fields of Califor- nia, its gardens, groves and cottage blossoms ? Should the traveler return home by the Southern route, neither the richness, the vast- ness, or the growth of civilization in the Valley of the Platte, the transformation of the desert at Salt Lake, nor the grand scenery of the Rocky Mountains or the Sierras, nothing on the route will make a stronger impression than what he beholds in the new regions. The " Loop " that wonderful achievement of en- gineering skill the orange groves of Southern California, desolation more absolute and blank than any the Central or Union Pacific exhibited, descent below the level of the sea, numerous cactuses, and among them even trees. From lemons, limes, oranges, olives, pineapples and bananas, he will pass to a region worse than sage-brush ; to where not even a blade of grass is seen the region of sand-storms; then over mesas rich in the ruins of an ancient civiliza- tion; then into the rich grasses and fertile val- leys of the Arkansas and Kansas, amid the rush of emigrants and springing up of homes with a rapidity like that of the growing corn. Such complete transitions have inexpressible charms. And should he stop "to view the landscape o'er " from La Veta Pass, and receive the delightful inspiration of Colorado's moun- tain charms, he will always rejoice that he was permitted to see somewhat of the grandeur and greatness of this Western World. Practical Hints for Comforts by the Way. To enjoy palace car life properly, one always needs a good companion. This obtained, take a section together, wherever the journey leads you. From Chicago to the Missouri River, the company in sleeping-cars is usually quiet and refined, but beyond there is often an indescrib- able mixture of races in the same car, and if you are alone, often the chance is that your "compagnon du voyage'''' may not be agreeable. It is impossible to order a section for one person alone, and the dictum of sleeping-car arrange- ments at Council Bluffs requires all who come to take what berths are assigned. But if you will wait over one day at Council Bluffs or Kansas City, you can make a choice of the whole train, and secure the most desirable berths. When your section is once located at either terminus of either transcontinental road, generally you will find the same section re- served for you at Ogden or Deming, through- passengers having usually the preference of best berths, or the same position as previously occupied. Fee your porter on the sleeping-car always if he is attentive and obliging, give him a dol- lar. His attention to your comfort, and care of your baggage and constant watch over the little articles and hand-satchel against loafers on the train, are worth all you give him. Often larger fees are given. This is just as the traveler feels. The porters of both Pacific Railroads are esteemed specially excellent, obliging and careful. Meals. The trains of the Union Pacific Railroad are arranged so as to stop a sufficient time for meals. In place of dining at Laramie, there is now a more convenient eating-station at Rock Creek, a little farther Avest. Its pleas- ant, cheerful room filled with plants, and the convenience of better hours for meals, add greatly to the pleasure of the overland trip. At Green River you will find the dining-room entrance fairly surrounded with curiosities, and the office tilled with oddities very amusing. Usually all the eating-houses on both the Pacific Railroads are excellent. The keepers have to maintain their culinary excellence under great disadvantages, especially west of Sidney, as all food but meats must be brought from a great distance. Travelers need to make no preparations for eating on the cars, as meals at all dining-halls are excellent, and food of great variety is nicely served buffalo meat, antelope steak, tongue of all kinds, and always the best of beefsteaks. Laramie possesses the reputation of the best steak on the Pacific Railroad. Sidney makes a specialty, occasionally, of antelope steak. At Green River you will always get nice biscuit; at Grand Island they will give you all you can possibly eat; it has a good name for its bounti- ful supplies. At Ogden you will be pleased with the neat- ness and cleanliness of the tables and service. At Cheyenne the dinners are always excellent, and the dining-room is cheerful. To any who either have desiro to economize, or inability to eat three railroad meals par day, we recommend to carry a little basket with Albert biscuit and a little cup. This can be easily filled at all stopping-places with hot tea or coffee, and a sociable and comfortable glass of tea indulged in inside the car. The porter will fit you up a nice little table in your section, and spread on a neat white tablecloth. On the Union Pacific, and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe roads, are Pullman cars, on the Central and Southern Pacific are Silver Palace Cars, all convenient, neat and luxurious. The dining-stations of the Central Pacific Railroad are bountiful in their supplies; at all of them fruit is given in summer-time with great free- dom. Fish is almost always to be had; no game of value. The food, cooking and service by Chinese waiters, are simply excellent. The writer has never eaten a nicer railroad meal than those served at Wiunemucca, Elko, Battle Mountain, and especially Sacramento. The Humboldt Desert is far from being a desert to the traveling public, for its eating-stations always furnish a dessert of good things and creature comforts. A little lunch -basket nicely stowed with sweet ind substantial bits of food will often save you the pain of long rides before meals, when the empty stomach craves food,and failing to receive it, lays you up with the most dismal of sick headaches; it also serves you splendidly when- ever the train is delayed. To be well on the Pacific Railroad, eat at r gular hours, and never wtss a meal. Most of the sickness which we have witnessed, has arisen from irregular eat- ing, or injudicious attempts at economy by skipping a meal to save a dollar. We have noticed that those who were regular in eating at every meal passed the journey with greatest ease, most comfort, and best health. Those who were irregular, skipping here and there a meal, always suffered inconvenience. In packing your little lunch-basket, do not forget lemons or limes. Canned meats and fruits are easily carried. Bread and milk are easily procured. Avoid all articles which have odor of any description. Lunch counters are attached to all eating- stations, so that you may easily procure hot coffee, tea, biscuit, sandwiches and fruit, if you do not wish a full meal. The usual price of meals at all stations over- land is $1.00; at Sacramento 75 cents, and at Lathrop 50 cents the cheapest and best meals, for the money, of your whole tour. For cloth- ing on your overland trip, you will need at Omaha, the first day, if it is summer, a light spring suit; the next day, a winter suit at Sher- man. Again, at Salt Lake City and the Hum- boldt Desert, the thinnest of summer suits, and at the summit of the Sierras, all your under- clothing. We can only advise you, as you have to pass through so many extremes of tempera- ture, to always wear your underclothing, day and night, through the overland trip, and add an overcoat if the air grows chilly. Beware of the quick transition from the hot ride over the Sacramento or San Joaquin Valley to the cold sea air on the ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. Invalids have been chilled through with this unexpected Seabreeze, and even the most hardy do not love it. Keep warm and keep inside the boat. Thus, reader, we have helped you with kindly hints how to enjoy your trip. Now, let us glance, as we go, at each scene of industry where our tour will take us. Baggage All baggage of reasonable weight can be checked from any Eastern city direct to Omaha, but is there re-checked. At Omaha all baggage is weighed, and on all excess of over 100 pounds, passengers will pay 15 cents per pound. This is imperative. To Check Baggage. Be at every depot one- half hour or more before the departure of trains. Railroad tickets must always be shown when baggage is checked. At San Francisco the Pacific Transfer Com- pany will take your trunk to any hotel or private residence for 50 cents. Their agent is on every train; you will save time by giving him your check. The company is wholly re- liable, and your baggage will be stored by it, if you desire, on reasonable terms. All un- claimed baggage on the Central Pacific Railroad is sent to this company for safe-keeping. Should your baggage reach San Francisco twenty-four hours in advance of your arrival, look for it, therefore, at 110 Sutter Street, San Francisco. The agents of this company are also agents for the United Carriage Company, and will fur- nish carriages, so as to secure strangers from extortion and imposition. Hotel coaches will also be found at the depot in San Francisco, and their runners on the Oakland ferryboat. To a first-class hotel the charge for a passenger is 50 cents; to, not from, other hotels passengers are usually conveyed without charge. Horse-cars run from the wharf or depot to all hotels. Transier Coaches. In all Western cities there is a line of transfer coaches, which, for the uniform price of 50 cents, will take you and your baggage direct to any hotel, or transfer you at once across the city to any depot. They are trustworthy, cheap, and convenient. The agent will always pass through the train before arrival, selling transfer tickets and checks to hotels. At Salt Lake City, horse-cars run from the depot direct to the hotels; there is also an omnibus transfer. Price, 50 cents. Hotel Charges and Rooms The uniform prices of board in the West are $3.00 to $4.50 per day at Chicago and San Francitco; $3.00 to $4.00 per day at Omaha, Denver and Salt Lake City. If traveling -with ladies, it is pood policy, when within 100 miles of each ciLy where you expect to stop, to telegraph to your hotel in advance, requesting nice rooms reserved, always mentioning that you have ladies. Carriages. "Whenever disposed to take horses and carriage for a ride, look out with sharp eyes for the tricks of the trade; if no price or time is agreed upon, you will have to pay dearly, and the farther west you go the hire of horse flash grows dearer (though the valuo per animal rapidly grows less). Engage your livery carefully at so much per hour, and then choose your time to suit your wishes. Ten-dollar bills melt quicker in carriage rides than in any other "vain show." Courtesy. Without much exception, all railroad officers, railroad conductors, Pullman car conductors, are gentlemen in manners, courteous and civil. No passenger ever gains a point by loud orders, or strong and forcible demands. You are treated respectfully by all, nnd the same is expected in return. The days of boisterous times, rough railroad men and bullies in the Far West, are gone, and there is as much civility there, often more, than you will find near home. Railioad Tickets These should bo pur- chased only at reliable offices, and from respon- sible agents. The route should be decided beforehand ; the purchaser should fully under- stand whether his ticket is limited in time or stop-over privileges, and how limited, before he purchases. Through-tickets are always cheaper and more convenient than tickets from point to point. ROUTES. Route No. 1 from Boston. This is via the Hoosac Tunnel, direct from Boston to Albany, there connecting with the New York Central. Passengers by the New York Central have choice of three routes to Chicago. (1) The Canada Southern to Detroit, giving the best view of Niagara Falls, and forming the favorite route from Buffalo to Chicago, via Detroit and the Michigan Southern Railroad. ("2) The Great Western, crossing the Niagara River on the famous Suspension Bridge, the old and well-known route. (3) The Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, through Cleveland and Toledo. The directness makes the route a con- venient one, but the scenery, excepting Niagara Falls, is quite uninteresting. Route No. 2 from Boston is via the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad to New York city. Route No. 3 from Boston is the New York and Boston Air Line, via Willimantic, from Bos- ton to Brooklyn, at which point trains are ^con- veyed "without breaking to Jersey City, anc. run thence via the Pennsylvania Railroad. Boston or New York passengers for California by the Southern route may go from Toledo direct to Kansas City, via the Wabash, St. Louis and Pacific, or from Chicago via the same line, or via the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific, or the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy, or the Chicago, Alton and St. Louis. Wagner sleeping-cars are run on the New York Central from Boston and New York to Chicago. Routj No. 1 frc m New York. Take the Pennsylvania Central Railroad, which leaves foot of Desbrosses Street, by ferry, to Jersey City. Three through-trains leave each day. To see the richest scenery, take the moaning train and you will have a good view of nearly the entire State of Pennsylvania by daylight, the valley of the Susquehanna and Juniata, and the famous Horse-Shoe Bend by moonlight. The Pennsylvania Railroad is " always on time," the most reliable in its connections. It has track tanks from which the locomotives of ex- press trains take water while running forty miles an hour, a feature contributing to fast travel, used by no other railroad in the world. It is the true type of American progress and safety in railroading, and is unsurpassed in any respect. Passengers from New York may also visit Washington by this route without extra charge. To Kansas City, passengers by this route may go from Pittsburgh via Chicago, or direct to St. Louis and Kansas City. The sleeping-cars on the Pennsylvania Rail- road are of the Pullman pattern, and run from New York to Chicago or St. Louis. lloute No. 2 from New York. Leave via the Erie Railroad from foot of Chambers or West Twenty-third Street. The sleeping-cars on the Erie Railroad belong to tlio Pullman Company. The scenery along the Erie Rail- road (by all means take the morning train) is specially fine, and at points is remarkably lovely. The sleeping and dining-'cars accompany the train to Chicago. The route passes vi*i Salaman- ca, Atlantic and Great Western and Chicago ex- tensions of Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, direct, without change, to Chicago. Passengers also can take other sleeping-cars of the train, if they wish, which will convey them direct to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, where there is direct connec- tion vii the Lake Shore Railroad or Michigan Central to Chicago. Route ISO. a from New York is via the New York Central and Hudson River. The charming scenery of the Hudson is well known Passengers by the New York Central have a choice of three routes to Chicago: 1. The Canada Southern to Detroit, giving the best view of Niagara Falls; the Michigan Cen- tral from Detroit to Chicago. The Canada Southern is the great favorite route between Buffalo and Detroit. 2. The Great Western, 10 crossing the Niagara Eiver on the famous Sus- pension Bridge, the old and well-known route. 3. The Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, through Cleveland and Toledo. Routo No. 4 is -via the Baltimore and Ohio Eailroad. This company uses the line of the Pennsylvania Railroad, from New York City to Baltimore, but possesses the shortest line from Washington to Chicago or Cincinnati. Its scenery, on the mountain division, between Harper's Ferry and Parkersburg, is grand and full of historic interest. Its dining-stations are exceedingly well kept. Pullman cars run through to and from St. Louis and Chicago. California travelers choosing this route east, will include Washington, Baltimore, Philadel- phia and New York, with their numerous scenes and objects of interest, on one ticket, as in the case of the Pennsylvania Central. From Philadelphia. Tourists generally prefer the Pennsylvania Central, the shortest line to Chicago, though many often wish to visit Baltimore and Washington, and go thence to see the scenery along the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and continue westward via Cincin- nati to St. Louis. They may also go via Harrisburg, Pa. and the Northern Central Railroad past Watkin's Glen to Rochester or Buffalo, and also via the Delaware Water Gap, and either Syracuse or Binghamton ; but the most direct route is via Pittsburgh and Fort Wayne to Chicago, and for southern passengers via St. Louis to Kansas City. Or from New York to Chicago they may take the Pan Handle route via Columbus and Logansport. Jj'rom Baltimore and Washington. Tour- ists have choice of either the Baltimore and Potomac, Northern and Pennsylvania Central, or the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Pullman cars run ori either road. Prom Cincinnati. Tourists have choice of two routes: 1st, via Ohio and Mississippi Rail- road direct to St. Louis, passing over the St. Louis Bridge, with omnibus transfer to other railroads ; or, 2d, va Indianapolis, Bloomington and Western Railroad, which runs trains direct to Burlington, la. , or to Chicago. Pullman sleeping-cars run on either route. Prom St. .Louis. The Wabash, St. Louis and Pacific is the most direct route, being ten hours in advance of all others to Omaha. Prom Chicago. Three roads run across Iowa direct to Council Bluffs. The Chicago, Bock Island and Pacific Eailroad crosses the Mississippi River atDaven- port. The view from the railroad bridge is veiy beautiful, and the scenery along the whole line, especially through Iowa, is also beautiful. It is the Central Line West from Chicago, and especially noted for excellent railroad manage- ment. The Palace sleeping-cars of this line are owned by the company, and unexcelled in comfort and beauty, while the charges are less than routes of other sleeping cars. Tho road bed is extremely fine, being laid with steel rails. Through-sleeping-cars run from Chicago westward, morning and evening, to Council Bluffs, Leavenworth, Peoria, and connecting points with other railroads. At Chicago the trains of this road run into the Union Depot, connecting for the East with the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chi- cago Railroad without transfer across the city. Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Rail- road to Kansas City. This is also a direct line from Chicago to Kansas City or Leaven- worth, which passengers may take for Califor- nia via the Southern route. Tho sleeping-cars and other conveniences are like those on the line between Chicago and Council Bluffs. Between Chicago and Kansas City or Leaven- worth, there is a third route, also direct that of the Chicago and Alton Eailroad. On all these, sleeping-cars arc run, and the time made is about the same. The Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad crosses the Mississippi at Burling- ton, la., and passes through Southern Iowa. Pullman cars are run on this road, including the sixteen- wheel dining-cars, with unexceptionable meals. Passengers going East highly enjoy the change from the eating-houses of Utah and Wyoming to the luxury of meals in every re- spect first-class, and this feature of the road makes it a great favorite with many ladies. The smoking-cars are fitted with elegant high-backed rattan revolving chairs, and other comforts wholly unknown to travelers a few years ago. The Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad to Kansas City.- This is a direct through-line to either Kansas City or Leaven- worth, and deservedly popular. It has all the advantages of the line between Chicago and Omaha. The Chicago and Northwestern Railroad crosses the Mississippi at Clinton, la. The eating-stations on this route are all very superior. Better meals are not often served outside of first-class hotels. This is the shortest line be- tween Chicago and Omaha, and is popular throughout all the Northwest. Pullman sleep- ing-cars are run on this line. NOTE. --West of Chicago the Pacific through- trains leave in the morning, with sleeping-cars through to Council Bluffs without change. Fronl St. Louis to Omaha. Three routes nre open to the tourist. Tho Missouri Pacific Eailroad runs up on the south side of the Mis- souri Eiver, with Pullman cars, direct for Kan- sas City, and the Wabash, St. Louis and Pacific 11 xi the northern side of the river, direct to Council Bluffs. The Missouri Pacific, in direct connection with the Kansas City, St. Joseph and Council Bluffs Eailroad, runs through-sleeping-cars from St. Louis direct to Council Bluffs. From St. Louis to Kansas City, the most direct route is by the Missouri Pacific Railroad. Pullman sleeping-ca^s are run on this road. Council Bluffs, Iowa, Railroad Transfer Grounds. This, as well as Omaha, is a trans- fer point for all passengers, and the starting- point of all trains on the Union Pacific Rail- road. A recent decision of the United States Supreme Court fixes the terminus of the Pacific Railroad on the east side of the Missouri River. The company has complied with the decision, a,nd the necessity for bridge transfer is now en- tirely removed. At Council Bluffs is also the western terminus of the Iowa railroads. A Union Depot for all railroads has been erected, and all passengers, baggage, mails, freight, etc. , and trains for the West, start from this point as well as Omaha. Passengers, however, usually prefer to go to Omaha for a visit. The city of Council Bluffs is located about three miles east from the Missouri River, and contains a popu- lation of 18,121. Its record dates from as early as 1804, when the celebrated explorers, Lewis and Clark, held a council with the Indians, which fact, together with the physical peculi- arity of the high bluffs overlooking the town, has given it its name Council Bluffs. The city is one of great enterprise, with a large number of public buildings, stores, State institutions and dwellings, and is the nucleus of a large trade from surrounding Iowa towns, and is supported by a rich agricultural com- munity. It is intimately connected with Omaha with frequent trains over the bridge, by a railroad ferry, attached to the dummy train, an invention of P. P. Shelby. It will doubtless come more largely hereafter into prominence as a railroad town, though the commercial im- portance of Omaha, and its trade with the Far "West, will doubtless be for a long time to come far superior. The general offices of the Union Pacific Railroad Company will remain at Omaha. At Council Bluffs the Union Pacific Railroad Company have reserved ample grounds, over 1,000 acres, to accommodate its own traffic and that of connecting railroads, and extensive preparations will be made to accommodate the vast traffic of freights, passengers, baggage and stock, which daily arrives and departs. The past year over 4,000 cars of stock were transferred over the bridge, and there is ample room for extension. Here are also located the stock grounds of the company, which in time will render the locality a large stock-market; for here begins the great grazing belt of the continent that which affords sure sustenance for stock and a fair degree of safety without shelter the year round. Large herds of sleek cattle feed upon this natural pasturage on every hand, and often mingle with bands of antelope and other game. From this west to the Pacific Ocean, north into the British Pos- sessions and to the southernmost limits of the continent, cattle graze and fatten summer and winter, needing no more attention to assure their growth and safety than the buffalo. Nearly all readers must understand that the grasses west of here cure where they grow, retaining all their wonderfully nutritious ele- ments, and that different herbs unknown in the east also afford a perfect winter diet. Fur- ther, that the snows are light and dry, ever shifting before the prairie winds, and that sheltered and wooded valleys are conveniently interspersed, affording all the protection that cattle have ever seemed to need. It is readily seen, therefore, that in all this vast territory must be thousands upon thousands of oppor- tunities for men to produce beef, after the nucleus for a herd is purchased, at .the simple outlay of herding and branding. It is demon- strated by hundreds of reliable stockmen that the loss from all causes will not exceed two per cent, of the entire herd per annum. Sleeping-Car Expenses The tariff to travelers is as follows, with all companies, and all in greenbacks: One berth, New York to Chicago, one and one-half days, by any route.... $5 00 One berth, New York to Cincinnati, one and one-half days, by Pennsylvania Railroad 4 00 One berth, New York to Cincinnati, one and one-half days, by other routes. . 5 00 One berth, New York to St. Louis, two days, by any route 5 00 One berth, Chicago or St. Louis, to Omaha, by any route 3 00 One berth, Omaha to Ogden, by Pacific Railroad 8 00 One berth, Ogden to San Francisco, by Central Pacific Railroad 6 00 One berth, St. Louis to Kansas City 2 00 One berth, Chicago to Kansas City 3 00 One berth, Kansas City to Deming 7 00 One berth, Deming to San Francisco ... 7 00 MEALS. All meals at all railroad dining-stations east of Omaha 75 Except dinners on Erie and New York Central ; 100 All meals on Union Pacific Railroad 1 00 All meals on Central Pacific Railroad, first day, currency 1 00 All meals on Central Pacific at Sacramento 75 All meals on Central Pacific at Lathrop.. 50 Meals on the Southern Pacific and Atchi- son, Topeka and Santa Fe Roads. 75c. to 1 00 12 Curiosities of History. To whom the honor belongs of first proposing the plan of a rail- road to the Pacific, .history can never fully deter- mine. Whitney offered to build it for a grant of thirty miles in width along its track, and it was Jookvd upon as the freaky fancy of a monomaniac. Benton, too, the famous statesman, was once aglow with enthusiasm over the subject, and be- gan to ag'tate the project, but it was considered the harmless fancy of an old politician. And in 1856, when General Fremont was nominated, the Platform of the National Republican Party contained a clause in its favor but it was re- garded as a piece of cheap electioneering " bun- combe," and decidedly absurd. Perhaps the earliest record of a devoted admirer of this project was that of John Plumbe, in 1836. He was a Welshman by birth, an American by education and feeling, a civil engineer by profession, and lived at Dubuque, la. He began, to agitate the project of a railroad from the great lakes across the Continent to the Territory of Oregon. From that time to his death, in California, sev- eral years after the discovery of gold, he never failed to urge his project ; earnestly and ardently laboring to bring it before Congress, and attempt- ing to secure a beginning of the great work. To far-seeing statesmen, the idea naturally occurred that in course of time there would arise on the Pacific Coast another empire of trade and com- merce and industry, either at San Francisco, or the Puget Sound, which would in time, become the rival of New York and the East, and at once the project was taken up and encouraged by Carver, Wilkes, Benton, Whitftey, Burton and others ; but all such ideas met with indifference, and ridicule. In 1814, when Fremont made his famous ex- plorations across the plains, which has earned him so world-wide a reputation, so little was known of the geography of that country, that his reports were considered an immense acquisition to the collection of books of physical knowledge of our country. This section was fully 2,300 miles in distance, entirely vacant, no settlement, entirely occupied by roving bands of Indians, and the undisturbed home of the buffalo and antelope. In that year Chicago was but an obscure village, on a prairie without a single inhabitant. And not a single line of railroad was built from the Atlantic westward beyond the Alleghanies, and on the Pacific only one American flag covered a feeble colony. The dis- covery of gold in California had its effect in directing public attention to the unknown riches of its Western border ; and at last Congress v ok '. up to the need of thorough explorations and investigations. In March, 1853, Congress made its fii>t appropriation to explore the Far We-it, and ascertain if there was really a practi- cable route to the Pacific. In 1854, Congress ap- propriated $190,000 additional ; and, as a result, nine surveying parties were organized and pur- sued their work. Ten routes were surveyed between the 32d and 49th parallel of latitude ; the eastern ends ranging all the way from Fulton, Ark., to St. Paul, Minn., and the western ter- minal points from San Diego to Puget Sonnd The lengths of these routes varied from 1,533 to 2,290 miles. The continued gold discoveries brought an im- mense flow of population to the Pacific Coast, and California, more alive to the necessities of such roads than the East, after numerous agitations, at last really made the first initiatory experiment. Early in 1861 there was organized at Sacramento, Cal., the Central Pacific Railroad Company, who by the appointment of T. D. Judah, as chief en- gineer, began the first and most thoi ough railroad survey ever made on the Sierras. Congress then \\oke up, and in July, 1862, the first national charter was granted. As a curious fact in the act the utmost limit of time allowed for the completion of the road was fixed at July 1. 1876. In October, 1863, the preliminary organ- ization of the company was completed. A capi- tal of one hundred million dollars authorized, and the first contract for construction begun in 1864, but no practical progress was made till 1865, when on the 5th of November, the first ceremony of breaking ground, at Omaha, was celebrated. Then was begun the great work ; the rapid progress of which afterward was a world-wide sensation, astounding engineers, capitalists and even governments, with the almost reckless dar- ing of construction. Necessity and Benefits to the Govern- ment. From 1850 to 1860, the population of the far Western States and Territories increased from a mere handful to the large number of 554,301 persons, and in the whole area of 2,000 miles there had been built only 232 miles of telegraph, and 32 miles of railway. The United States Government had established forts and trading stations, and the year 1870 saw the completion of the Pacific Railroad line, Congress and the whole country were astonished to see the rapid rate of development, and the enormous expense of government military service. In that year the population had increased to 1.011,971, there had been built over 13,000 miles of telegraph lines ; there were completed over 4,000 miles of rail- road ; all representing the gigantic capital of $363.750,000. In the reports of distinguished statesmen to the United States Senate, occur these remarks which show the spirit of the times then Senator Stewart of California, says : " The cost of the overland service for the whole period, from the acquisition of our Pacific Coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific Railroad was $8,000,000 per annum, and con- stantly increasing." 13 As a curious fact of national economy, these figures wiii show the result of the Pacific Kail- road in saving to the United States Government: From the building of the road to 187G, the cost of transportation to the government was as follows: Amount cash paid to railroad companies for one-half charge of transportation per year, about $1,200,0;)0 per annum, say for 7 years 1869 to 1876, $8,400,000 The cost to the government of military trans- portation in 1870, was $8,000,000 per annum, and increasing over $1,000,000 per year, in 1876, would have been over $14,- 000,000. Average for 7 years, at $10,000,000 per year, $70,000,000 Total saving in 7 years to United States Govern- ment, $62,600,000 The actual amount of interest during this time paid by the United States Treasury on bonds issued in behalf of the railroad, average interest, $3,807, 129 per year. Total for 7 years, $27,279,906 Net profit over all expenses to United States, $42,320.094 These figures do not include vast amounts of incidental itfrns which would have been of incal- culable trouble, or immense expense to the United States, such as the indemnities con- stantly beiiig paid by the Lr.ited States for de- otruction of life and private property by Indians; also depredations of IndV'"-S on property in gov- ernment service, increased mail facilities and decreased mail expenses, prevention of Indian wars, the rapid sale of public land,;, and the energetic development of the mining interests of all the Territories. If these can all be correctly estimated, the net gain to the United States by the building of the Pacific Railroad, is over fifty millions of i Dodge, in complimenting the directors o, 'the day of the completion of the last mile o^ track- says : " The country is evidently satisfied that you accomplished wonders, and have achieved a work which will be a monument to your energy, your ability, and to your devotion to the enter- prise, through all its gloomy, as well as bright periods, for it is notorious ihat notwithstanding the aid of the government, there was so little faith in the enterprise, that its dark days when your private fortunes, and your all was staked on the success of the project far exceeded those of sunshine, faith and confidence." The lack of confidence in the project, even in the West^was so great that even in localities which were to be specially benefitted by its con- struction, the laborers even demanded their pay before they would perform their day's work, so little faith had they in the payment of their wages, or in the ability of the company to suc- ceed in their efforts. Probably no enterprise in the world has been so maligned, misrepresented and criticised as this, but now it is, by unbiased minds, pro- 14 nounced, almost without exception, the best new road in the United States. Rapid Progress. Though chartered in 1862, yet the first grading was not done until 1864, and the first rail laid in July, 1865. At that time there was no railroad communication from the East ; a gap of 140 miles existed be- tween Omaha and Des Moines, and over this it was impossible to get supplies. For 500 miles westward of the Missouri River, the country was completely destitute of timber, fuel, or any material with which to build or maintain a road, save the bare sand for the road- bed itself, everything had to be transported by teams or steamboats, hundreds and thousands of miles. Labor, and everything made by labor, was scarce and high. Railroad ties were cut in Michigan and Penn- sylvania, and shipped to Omaha at a cost, often, of $2.50 per tie. Even the splendid engine, of seventy horse-power, used at Omaha for the company's works, was transported in wagons across tne prairies from Des Moines, the only way to get it. Shops had to be built, forges erected, and machinery put in place, and the supplies, even, for the subsistence of the laborers had to be brought by river from the East ; yet it was all done. As the Westerners concisely express it, " The wiivl work had all been dune, and grading now be- gan." In 1865, 40 miles of track were laid to Fre- mont. Iti 1866, 260 miles were laid. In 1867, 240 miles were laid, which included the ascent to Sherman. By January 1, 1868, there had been completed 540 miles. In 1868, to May 10, 1869, 555 miles more were laid, and the road finished seven years in advance of the time set by Congress, and the time actually spent in construction was just three years, six months, and ten days. To show the enormous amount of materials required in the Union Pacific Railroad alone, there were used in its construction 300,000 tons of iron rails, 1,700*000 fish-plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23,505,500 spikes. Fast Building. Day after day the average rate of building rose from one to two, three and five miles. Many will remember the daily thrill of excitement as the morning journals in the East made the announcements of so many more miles nearer the end, and as the number of com- pleted miles, printed in the widely circulated advertisements of the company, reached 1000, the excitement became intense, as the rival roads now were fairly aglow with the heat of compe- tition, and so near each other. In previous months there had existed a little engineering rivalry, good natured, but keen, as to the largest number of miles each could lay in one day. The Union Pacific men laid one day six miles ; soon after the Central followed suit b^ r laying fiven, The Union Pacific retaliated by laying seven and a half ; to this the Central sent the announce- ment that they could lay ten miles in one day ; to this Mr. Durant, the vice-president, sent back a wager of $10,000 that it could not be done. The pride and spirit of the Central Pacific had now been challenged, and they prepared for the enor- mous contest, one of extraordinary magnitude and rapidity. The 29th day of April, 1869, was selected for the decision of the contest, as there then remained but 14 miles of track to bring a meeting of the roads at Promontory Point. Work began ; the ground had already been graded and ties placed in position, and at the signal the cars loaded with rails moved forward. Four men, two on each side, seize with their nip- pers the ends of the rails, lift from the car and carry them to their place ; the car moves steadily along over the rails as fast as they are laid. Im- mediately after follows a band of men who attach the plate and put the spikes in position ; next a force of Chinamen who drive down the spikes solid to their homes, and last another gang of Chinamen with shovels, picks, etc., who ballast the track. The rapidity of all these motions, which required the most active of exercise and alert movements, was at the rate of 144 feet of track to every minute. By 1.30 p. M., the layers had placed eight miles of track in just six hours. Resuming work again, after the noon rest, the track-laying progressed, and at 7 P. M., exactly, the Central men finished their task of 10 miles, with 200 feet over. Mr. James Campbell, the superintendent of the division, then seizing a locomotive ran it over the ten miles of new track in forty minutes, and the Union men were satis- fied. This was the greatest feat of railroad building ever known in the world, and when it is known how vast the materials required to sup- ply this little stretch of ten miles, the reader is fairly astonished at the endurance of the laborers. To put this material in place over 4,000 men had been constantly employed. The laborers on that day handled 25,800 cross-ties, 3,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish-plates, and 14,080 bolts, the weight of the whole being 4,362,000 pounds. Upon both roads, for a year previous, there had been remarkable activity. A total force of 20,000 to 25,000 workmen all along the lines, and 5,000 to 6.000 teams had been engaged in grading and laying the track or getting out stone or timber. From 500 to 600 tons of materials were forwarded daily from either end of the lines. The Sierra Nevadas suddenly became alive with wood-choppers, and at one place on the Truckee River twenty-five saw-mills went into operation in a single week. Upon one railroad 70 to 100 locomotives were in use at one time, constantly bringing materials and supplies At one time there were 30 vessels en mute from* New York via Cape Horn, with iron, locomotives, rails and 15 rolling stock, destined for the Central Pacific Railroad; and it is a curious fact, that on sev- eral consecutive days more miles of track were ironed by the railroad companies than it was possible for an ox-team to draw a load over. And when at last the great road was completed, the fact suddenly flashed upon the nation that a road once so distrusted, and considered too gigantic to be possible, was constructed an actual distance of 2,221 miles, in less than five years, of which all but 100 miles was done be- tween January 1, 1866, and May 10, 1869 three years , four months and ten days. OMAHA, Railroads. The first railroad that reached this city from the East was the Chicago and Northwestern the first train over it arriving on Sunday, January 17, 1867. Then followed the Kansas City, Council Bluffs and St. Joseph, the Chicago, Bock Island and Pacific, and the Burlington and Missouri Biver of Iowa (oper- ated by the Chicago, Burlington and Qumcy). After these came the Sioux City and Pacific, the Omaha and Northwestern (in recent years called the Omaha and Northern Nebraska), and the Omaha and Southwestern, and the Omaha and Republican Valley. The Omaha and South- western is now operated by the Burlington and Missouri Biver Bailroad in Nebraska. The latter extends to Lincoln, the capital of the State, then westward, uniting with the Union Pacific at Kearney Junction. It has a branch from its main lines from Crete to Beatrice, a thriving town near the southern boundary of the State. It also controls another line running from Brownville, on the Missouri Biver, north to Nebraska City; thence west through Lincoln (where it connects with the main line) to York, in the central part of the State. During 1880 the Omaha and Northern Nebraska became a part of the Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis and Omaha Bailway, and is now known as the Omaha Division of that line. A connection with the St. Paul Line was made November 16, 1880, and the running of trains from Omaha direct to St. Paul and Minneapolis commenced a few weeks later. A branch of this line is also being extended towards the beautiful valley of the Elkhorn, one of the garden-spots of Ne- braska. Other railroads are contemplated, among them a branch of the Missouri Pacific Bailroad down the west bank of the Missouri from Omaha to Atchison. When completed, it will, with the Missouri Pacific Main Line, give a competing route to St. Louis and the sea- board. At Atchison it will connect with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, forming an almost direct route through Kansas to the mines of Southern Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. *\.s the Atchison Boad has recently met the Southern Pacific, Omaha will have another outlet to the Pacific Coast. The Omaha and Bepublican Valley, operated by the Union Pacific Company, runs from Omaha to Stroms- burg, about 125 miles west, and it is already doing a large and increasing business. It will be extended westward as the country develops, and population increases. A branch of this line is also in operation from Valparaiso to Lincoln. Besides these railroads, Omaha has the Mis- souri Biver on her front, giving the city cheap steam communication from the center of Mon- tana to the Gulf of Mexico, and with the whole Mississippi Valley and its tributaries as far east as Pennsylvania. The city has become the most important railroad center west of Chicago and St. Louis, and as the greatest popular " travel center " on the Missouri Biver, stands unrivaled. As a matter of interest we mention the fact that in 1875 there were 55,000 local arrivals and de- partures. In 1876 there were 70,000, and in 1878, 73,330, and in 1880 an increase of twenty- five per cent, over 1878. The city is the east- ern gateway of the mineral-bearing regions of the West, and the products of British Colum- bia, the Pacific Coast, the Sandwich Islands and Asia, find their way through her limits to the Eastern markets. Within a circle having a radius of five hundred miles, of which Omaha is the center, there are upwards of 12,000,000 people and 26,000 miles of railroad, radiating in every direction. Within this circle is the Black Hills region, whose rapid development is already attracting attention. Beyond this limit on the west, are Western Colorado, the greater part of Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Ne- vada and California. Omaha already has a controlling influence over the greater part of the mineral trade of these States and Territories, of which we shall speak hereafter. The general offices of the Union Pacific are located here. They are in an elegant building which catches the eye of the traveler as one of the notable objects as he approaches the city. It was completed in 1878, at a cost of 358,453. 74, and the citizens are very proud of this fine structure. The general offices of the Burling- ton and Missouri Biver in Nebraska, the Omaha and Southwestern, and the Omaha and Bepub- lican Valley Bailroads are also located here. In addition to these, the general agencies of the Chicago, Sioux City, St. Louis, St. Paul and Eastern lines have handsome offices. The Blue, Bed, Empire and other fast freight lines are represented in the city, and it is probable that the Baltimore and Ohio, Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul, and other competing lines will push their fast freight lines to a connection with the Union Pacific and secure a proportion of the immense trans-continental traffic. The Omaha and Bepublican Valley Bailroad has taken steps looking to the early completion SCENES IN OMAHA. 1. General View of Omaha and the Missouri Valley. 2.-Post-Offlce. 3 High School Building. 4. Grand Central Hotel. 5. Missouri Kivei kiidge. 17 of a series of railroad lines that will "gridiron" the State. One line will run to Atchison, Kansas ; another to Beatrice, another into the Republican Valley, another to Grand Island and up the Loup Fork, and another to the Niobrara Eiver in the north. Manufactures. In manufactures Omaha is now the most extensive manufacturing point on the Missouri River, the amount for 1880 be- ing in the neighborhood of $12,000,000. She has an oil mill which supplies the extensive demand for linseed oil and oil cake, and pro- motes the growth of flax in Nebraska, necessi- tating at an early day the erection of flax mills in the city for the manufacture of that article; extensive white lead works, completed in the spring of 1878; a safe factory, nail factory, shot tower, several breweries, two distilleries, foun- dries and machine shops, carriage and wagon shops, three packing houses, flour mills and other manufactories in active operation or contemplat- ed. Among the latter are a grape sugar factory, starch factory, etc. Among the principal estab- lishments in operation are the machine shops, car works and foundry of the Union Pacific Railroad, and the Omaha smelting works. The shops of the railroad occupy, with the round- house, about thirty acres of land on the bottom adjoining the table land on which most of the city proper is built. Their disbursements amount to $2,600,000 per annum for labor and material, while for office and manual labor alone the Union Pacific pays out annually in Omaha over one million dollars. The value of this business and the location of these shops to the city can, therefore, readily be seen, and are no small factors in Omaha's prosperity. Business of OmahaFacts Interesting and Carious. When Omaha was first entitled to the honor of a post-office, the story is told that the first postmaster (still living in the city) used his hat for a post-office, which he naturally carried with him wherever he went, delivering the mail to anxious individuals who were wait- ing eagorly for him, or chased and overtook him. Twenty years after, Omaha possesses a hand- some stone post-office and a custom-house worth $350, 000 (in which there is a bonded warehouse) , and the finest building west of the Mississippi River. The post-office has frequently handled twenty tons of overland and local mail matter per day. The total business at this post-office for 1880 was about $2,375,000, and the total number of letters, newspapers and postal cards, collected and delivered, was 18,192,543. In 1861 the first telegrapk reached Omaha, and its only office was for several years the terminus of the Pacific Telegraph. Now there are thirty -four telegraph wires radiating in all directions; fif- teen offices, employing seventy operators. The number of messages per day averages 10,500, of which one-third ralates to Pacific Railroad busi- ness, and including press dispatches, local and Pacific Coast, about 25,000,000 words were re- peated. The total value of school property in Omaha is $430,975, and the city is growing so rapidly that several more buildings are needed. Omaha is the headquarters of the army of the Platte, and disburses about 81,700,000, besides an annual transportation account with the Union Pacific Railroad of $675,000. The office of In- ternal Revenue Collector for Nebraska is also located here. In 1865 Omaha did not have a sin- gle manufacturing establishment. In 1880, her manufactures amounted to about $12,000,000, the annual increase being from twenty to twenty- five per cent. Here are located the largest smelt- ing and refining works on the North American Continent; the Omaha smelting works, which employ 150 men, and do an annual business of $5,500,000. Seven breweries turn out 30,000 barrels of beer. One distillery pays the govern- ment $850,000 per year, and there are up ward of fifty smaller enterprises, among which is a nota- ble industry the manufacture of brick over 12,000,000 brick being turned out of four brick yards. The bank capital and surplus exceed $800, 000. In overland times before the building of the Pacific Railroad, or just at its commence- ment, the wholesale trade of Omaha was won- derful single houses handling as much as $3,000,000. Since that time the courses of trade have been so divided that the largest sales now of any wholesale establishment do not exceed $1,500,000. Perhaps, the best index of the enormous trade Omaha is gaining is in the in- crease of the shipments and receipts of live stock, grain, currency, precious metals, etc., etc. The receipts of cattle at Omaha were as follows: NO. INCKEASE. Duringl876 60,300 1877 95,500 35,200 The estimates place the receipts at 150,000 for 1881, and large stock yards will be built the present year'. Omaha packing houses slaugh- tered 72,000 hogs in 1880. In 1874 the grain business amounted to about 300, 000 bushels per annum. In six months ending March, 1881, the receipts amounted to about 4,000,000 bush- els, and the corn crop of the last year had not then begun to move. Omaha has two grain elevators, and an elevator with a storage capa- city of 1,000,000 bushels is now being erected. As to the movements of the precious metals into and through Omaha, we find that the Black Hills ores are appearing freely in the city, and since the opening of the Colorado Division of the Union Pacific Railway from Cheyenne to Den- ver, it is getting its share of the ore and base bullion of that State. It is a noticeable fact that nearly all of the shipments of fine gold and silver from New Mexico now find their way to the Eastern cities through Omaha. The gold and silver products of the country west of 18 Omaha are again on bhe increase, as will be seen by reference to these statistics: GOLD AND SILVER PRODUCT OF THE WEST. 1869 $151,500000 1V70 66,000,000 1871 66,663,000 1872 6!,E4!,877 18/3 71 C4J.523 1874 72,423,206 1*75 $75,789,057 1876 85,835,73 1877 9!,3d6,5'4 1878 8 ,154,632 JS79 7\3l",501 1880 80,167,93d Showing an increase in the gold and silver production in 1880 over 1869 of $18,667,936. In 1830, the estimated lead yield Avas $5,742,390, of which the Omaha smelting works manufac- tured $1,000,000 into lead bars for shipment- East. This amount being equal to the lead yield of Illinois and Missouri combined. In tracing the routes over which the precious metals of Colorado, Xew Mexico, Utah, Nevada and the West come, they must not be considered possible and temporary, but as the actual and per- manent routes over which these metals have been passing into and through Omaha, viz. : MOVEMENT OF BULLION AND ORES. During 1873, " 1874, " 1875, " 1876, " 1877, $21,500,000 41,907,090 49,848,542 56,7a3,100 50,060,368 Showing an increase in 1877 over 1873 of f 28.561 ),368. The increase in the eastward flow of gold in 1877 over 1876 was $5.227,102. The decrease in silver for the same time owing to the Asiatic de- mand and the coinage of trade dollars at San Francisco, was $ll,89i>,834. Had not these in- fluences been at work, it is safe to assume that the passage of srold and silver into and through Omaha for 1877 would have amounted to $64,000,000 or two-thirds of the entire product of the country. This does not include the amount contained in the ore, base bullion and lead passing over the Union Pacific roads : During 1875, " 1876, " 1877, 64,429,400 pounds. 71,758,352 " 111,006,050 " Showing an increase in 1877 over 1875 of 46,576,650 pounds. Of the amount in 1875, the Omaha smelting works received 29,638,826 pounds. The gain being proportionate for the two succeeding years. Iti 1875, not a car load of ore or bullion was handled at Kansas City from the Kansas Pacific Railroad. In 1877 the receipts of ore in that city were 23,964,250 pounds, mostly for shipment east. The Omaha smelting works are the largest on the Continent, as previously stated. They are being constantly enlarged to meet the increasing demands of business. In 1875 the works in Col- orado reduced $1,650.000 of ore and bullion. In 1874, the Omaha works reduced $$2,135,000. In 1875, $4.028,314. In 1876, $4,832,000. In 1877, $5,500,000. For 1875-76-77 their lead manu- facture amounted to 35,262 tons or 70,524,000 pounds, so that Omaha now produces about one sixth of all the lead used in the United States. Heretofore this lead has been shipped east, but the new white lead works are using a large por- tion of it and in the near future there is no reason why Omaha may riot be one of the prin- cipal lead manufacturing markets in the coun- try. The statement of currency received at and shipped from Omaha is as follows, viz. : In 1873, " 1874, " 1875, " 1876, " 1877, $21, 944,807.20 27,431,000.00 34,466,700.20 33,655,215.00 39,993,260.00 Showing an increase in 1877 over 1873 of $18,048,452.80. There was deposited in the Omaha banks, viz. : During 1874, " 1*75, " 1876, " 1877, $50.308,960.48 63,333,4!I2.0S 72,808,500.00 80,548,485.50 Showing an increase in 1877 over 1874 of $25,239,524.56. Exchange sold by the same : During 1874, 25,768,426.92 " 1877, 38,181,671.38 Showing an increase in 1877 over 1874 of $12,413,244.46. The public improvements show this record : During 1875 $360,000 1876 238,000 1877 7c5,000 During 1879 $1,064,540 1880 1,0.4,680 An increase in 1880 over 1875 of $654,880; over 1876, $776,880. Careful estimates place the improvement record of 1881 at no less than $1,500,000. Judging by the tide of immigra- tion now rushing into Nebraska through the efforts of eastern colonization societies and others, the realization will go beyond that figure, as the trade of the city is rapidly extending in every direction and the indications are that the present will be the most prosperous year in the history of the West. In I860, the transportation trade of Omaha amounted to 732,000 pounds. In 1877, the re- ceipts and shipments Irom and to the West pass- ing into and through Omaha were 2,172,720,000 pounds. In 1875, the Omaha merchants im- ported 17,450 carloads of merchandise. The mercantile and manufacturing trade of the city in round numbers is as follows : In 1875 $17,000,000 In 1877 $30,000,000 1876 25,000,000 " 1880 32,OOU,000 This increase of $13,000 000 in two years was during a period of universal depression. But notwithstanding the hard times, Omaha has be- come the chief commercial city of the Missouri valley. The " Omaha Union Stock Yards " were in- corporated May 4, 1878, and began at once the erection of large and well arranged yards, on their grounds located on the Union Pacific track 19 near the city limits. A dummy car line extend- ing from the Union depot to Hanscom Park, connects the yards with the hotels and banks of the city. The packing, slaughtering and can- ning of beef is destined to grow into immense proportions at this point, as also undoubtedly will tanning and glue manufacture. Omaha has now a system of water works which cost $600,000; also, a hotel and opera house, each of which cost $100,000. The U. P. It. JR. Bridge Across the Missouri River. The huge bridge, which spans the Missouri, is a fitting entrance to the wonders beyond a mechanical wonder of itself, it fills every traveler with a sense of awe and majesty, as the first great scene of the overland journey. The last piece of iron of the last span which completed the bridge was fastened in its place on the 20th of February, 1872. Previous to that time, all passengers and traffic were transferred across the treacherous and shifting shores of the Missouri River in steam-boats with flat keel, and with the ever-shifting currents and sand-bars, safe landings were always uncertain. The bridge comprises 11 spans, each span 250 feet in length, and elevated 50 feet above high water-mark. These spans are supported by one stone mason 17 abutment, and 11 piers with 22 cast-iron col- umns; each pier is 8 1-2 feet in diameter, and made of cast-iron in tubes one and three-fourths inches in thickness, 10 feet in length, with a weight of eight tons. As fast as the tubes of the columns are sunk, they are fitted together, seams made air-tight, and process continued till the complete depth and height is attained. Dur- ing the building of the bridge from February, 1S()9, when work first commenced, until com- pletion in 1872 (excepting a period of eight mouths suspension), about 500 men were con- stantly employed. Ten steam-engines were in use for the purpose of operating the pneumatic works to hoist the cylinders, help put the super- structure into position, to drive piles for tempo- rary platforms and bridges, and to excavate sand within the columns. The columns were sunk into the bed of the river after being placed in correct position by the following method : The top of the column being made perfectly air-tight, all water beneath is forced out by pneumatic pressure. Then descending into the interior, a force of workmen excavate the sand and earth, filling buckets which are quickly hoisted up- wards by the engines. When the excavation has reached one or more feet, the column sinks gradually inch by inch, more or less rapidly, un- til a solid bottom is reached. The least time in which any column was sunk to bed rock from the commencement of the pneu- matic process was seven days, and the greatest single depth of sinking at one time was 17 feet. The greatest depth below low water which was reached by any column, at bed rock, was 82 feet. The greatest pressure to which ihv men working in the columns were subjected, was 54 pounds per square inch in excess of the atmosphere. When solid foundation is once obtained, the interior of the columns are filled with solid stone concrete for about 25 feet, and thence upward with ce- ment masonry, till the bridge is reached. The total length of the iron structure of the bridge is 2,750 feet. The eastern approach is by an embankment of gradual ascent one and a half miles in length, commencing east of the Transfer grounds, and almost at Council Bluffs, and thence ascending at the rate of 35 feet to the mile to the bridge. Mettimwa. The old depot grounds of the Union Pacific Railroad were on the bank of the river immediately beneath the bridge. When this was constructed, in order to connect the bridge and main line of the railroad, it was necessary to construct, directly through the city, a branch line of road 7,000 feet in length, and construct a new depot on higher ground, of which as a result, witness the handsome, new structure, and spacious roof, and convenient waiting- rooms. From the first abutment to the bank, a trestle-work of 700 feet more, 60 feet in height was constructed; thus the entire length of _the bridge,^ with necessary approaches, is 9,950 feet. Total cost is supposed to be about $2,650,000, and the annual revenue about -1400,000. The bridge has figured nota- bly in the discussions of Congress, whether or not it should be considered a part of the Union Pacific Railroad. The recent de- cision of the United States Supreme Court has at last declared it so to be, and with this is done away entirely the " Omaha Bridge Trans- fer " of the past. Prepariny for the Westward Trip. Having rested and visited the principal points of interest in Omaha, you will be ready to take a fresh start. Repairing to the new depot, finished, at the crossing of Ninth street, you will find one of the most magnificent trains of cars made up by any railroad in the United States. Everything connected with them is first-class. Pullman sleeping-coaches are at- tached to all express trains, and all travelers know how finely they are furnished, and how they tend to relieve the wearisome monotony of tedious days in the journey from ocean to ocean. At this depot you will find the waiting-rooms, ticket-offices, baggage-rooms, lunch-stands, news and bookstand, together with one of the best kept eating-houses in the country. You will find gentlemanly attendants at all these places, ready to give you any information, and cheerfully answer your questions. If you have a little time, step into the Union Pacific Land office adjoining the depot, on the east, and see some of the pro- 20 ductions of this prolific western soil. If you have come from the far East, it has been a slightly uphill journey all the way, and you are now at an elevation of 966 feet above the sea. If the weather is pleasant, you may already begin to feel the exhilarating effect of western breezes, and comparatively dry atmosphere. With books and papers to while away your leisure hours, you are finally ready for the start. The bell rings, the whistle shrieks, and off you go. The road first winds up a little valley, passing the Bridge Junction 1.5 (one and five- tenths) miles to Summit Sid- ing, 3.2 miles from Omaha ; eleva- tion 1,142 feet. This place, you will ob- serve by these fig- ures, is reached by a heavy up grade. You are 176 feet higher than when you first started, and but little over three miles away. Hei'e is a deep cut through the hill, and beyond it you strike Mud Creek Valley with a down grade for a few miles. This creek and the road run south on a- line nearly parallel with, and about two and a half miles from, the Missouri River until the next sta- tion is reached. Gilmore. It is 9.5 miles from Oma- ha, with only 10 feet difference in eleva- tion 76 feet. The valley is quite thick- ly settled, and as you look out on the left " GOOD-BYE.' side of the cars, about four miles from Omaha, you will see a saloon called Half-Way House. At about this point you leave Douglas County and enter Sarpy County. Gilmore was named after an old resident of that locality, now dead. Here you are some nine miles south of Omaha, but only about three west of the Missouri River. Here you will first see what are called the bottom lands of Nebraska. They are as lich as ajiy lands on this Continent, as the re- markable crops raised thereon fully attest. rVom this station you turn nearly due west, and pass over the lower circle of what is called th^ ox-bow. Pajriliotif 14.5 miles from Omaha; eleva- tion 972 feet, is the next station, and is a thriv- ing little town (pronounced Pa-pil-yo). It derives its name from the creek on whose banks it is situ- ated. This creek was named by Lewis and Clark in their expedition to Oregon, in 1804, and is derived from a Latin word which means butter- fly. The main branch was crossed a little west of Gilmore. It emp- ties into the Mis- souri River about one mile north of the Platte River. It is reported that the early explorers named, saw an im- mense number of butterflies in the muddy and wet places near its mouth, and hence the name. These gentlemen explored this stream to its source, near the Elk- horn River. The town was laid out in the fall of 1869 by Dr. Beadle, and is the permanent county-seat of Sar- py County. It has a fine brick court- house, and a brick school-house, hotels, flouring mills and a grain ware-house ; is located as are all the towns on the first two hundred miles of this road, in the midst of a rich agricultural country. Sarpy County has two newspapers one the Papilion Times, published weekly at this place, and the other, the Sarpy County nel, published at Sarpy Center, some five miles in the country from this station. Sarpy is one qf the best settled counties in Nebraska, and has a property valuation of over 3,000,000. Millarflis named for Hon. Ezra Millard, president of the Omaha National Bank, who has considerable landed property here. The station- house is comparatively new, and there are a few other buildings recently erected. It is pleas- antly located, and, like all western towns, has plenty of room to grow. It is 20.9 miles from 21 Omaha ; elevation, 1,047 feet. Evidences of thrift are everywhere visible as you cast your eyes over the rolling prairies, and yet there is ample room for all who desire to locate in this vicinity. You have again crossed the boundary line of Sarpy County, which is a mile or two south-east of Millard, and are again in the County of Douglas. JKlkhoni,. 28.9 miles from Omaha, eleva- tion 1,150 feet. This is a growing town, and does a large business in grain ; it has an ele- vator, grain warehouses, two stores, a Catholic church, good school-house, and a hotel. You are now near the famous Elkhorn Valley and River. By a deep cut, the railroad makes its way through the bluff or hill on the east side of this stream, about a mile from the station, The elevation of Waterloo is laid down at 1,140 feet. The town has a fine water-power which has been improved by the erection of a large flouring-mill. It also has two steam flouring- mills, and a new depot. At this point you enter the Platte Valley, of which so much has been writt'en and which occupies such a prominent place in the history of the country. The Elkhorn and Platte Rivers form a junc- tion a few miles south of this point, and the banks of these streams are more or less studded with timber, mostly cottonwood. In fact, the Elkhorn has considerable timber along its banks. Valley is 35 2 miles from Omaha, and is 1,120 feet above the sea. It has a store and hotel, and is the center of a rich fanning dis- X1UHT SCENE. PRAIRIE ON FIRE. and then on a down grade you glide into the valley. The rolling prairies are now be- * hind you and south, beyond the Platte River, which for the first time comes into view. Cross- ing the Elkhorn River you arrive at Waterloo, 30.0 miles from Omaha, and cinly two miles from the last station. A few years since, a train was thrown from the bridge spoken of by reason of the high water of a freshet. This train had one car of either young fish or flsh-eggs in transit ; the contents of this car were of course lost in the river, and since that time the Elkhorn abounds in pike, pickerel, bass, sunfish and perch. What the California streams lost by this disaster the Elkhorn gained, as these fish have increased rapidly in this stream, where they were previously unknown. trict. The land seems low, and one would easily gain the impression that the soil here was very wet, but after digging through the black surface soil two or three feet you come to just such sand as is found in the channel of the Platte. In fact, tlie whole Platte Valley is underdrained by this river, and this is one reason why surface water from hard and extensive rains so quickly disappear, and why the land is able to produce such good crops in a dry season. Water is ob- tained anywhere in this valley by sinking what are called drive-wells, from six to twenty feet. Wind-mills are also extensively used by large farmers, who have stock which they confine upon their premises, and which otherwise they would have to drive som distance for water. The Omaha and Republi- 22 can Valley Bailroad runs to Stromsburg and Lincoln. Mercer, which is 41.4 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of about 1,140 feet. It will eventually become a station, as many trains already meet and pass here. Prairie Fires. During the first night's ride westward from Omaha, the traveler, as 1 he gazes out of his car window (which he can easily do while reclining in his berth) will often find his curious attention rewarded by a sight of one of the most awful, yet grandest scenes of prairie life. The prairies, which in the day-time to some, seemed dry, dull, uninter- esting, occasionally give place at night, to the lurid play of the fire-fiend, and the heavens and horizon seem like a furnace. A prairie on fire is a fearfully exciting and fear-stirring sight. Cheeks blanch as the wind sweeps its volume toward the observer, or across his track. Full in the distance is seen the long line of bright flame stretching for miles, with its broad band of dark smoke-clouds above. As the train comes near, the flames leap higher, and the smoke ascends higher, and on their dark bosom is reflected the fires' brilliantly-tinged light. Sweeping away for miles towards the bluffs, the fire jumps with the wind, and the flames leap 20 to 30, or more feet into the air, and for miles brighten the prairies with tne awful sight. We have never seen anything of prairie life or scenery possessing such majestic brilliance as the night glows, and rapid advances of a prairie fire. Far out on the prairies, beyond the settlements, the prairie fires, (usually set on fire by the sparks from the locomotives) rage unchecked for miles and miles, but nearer to the little settlements, where the cabins have just been set up, the fire is their deadli- est and most dreaded enemy. No words can describe, no pencil paint the look of terror when the settler beholds advanc- ing toward him the fire-fiend, for which he is unprepared and unprotected. When the first sign of the advancing fire is given, all hands turn out ; either a counter fire is started, which, eating from the settler's ranch, in the face of the wind, toward the grander coining volume, takes away its force, and leaves it nothing to feed upon, or furrows are broken with the plow around the settler's home. The cool earth thrown up, and all the grass beyond this is fired, while the little home enclosed within, is safe. A curious feature of prairie fires is, that the buffalo grass, the next season, is darker and richer than ever before; and lower down, in sections where the prairie fires are carefully kept off, trees, shrubs, bushes, etc., of many varieties, grow up spontaneously, which never were seen before. So long prairie fires rage, nothing will grow but the litt tufts of prairie grass. Wherever the prairie fii ceases or is kept restrained, vegetation of all di scription as far west as the Platte, is complete] changed. In the fall of the year these fires ai most frequent ; and creating a strong current ( breeze by their own heat, they advance with tt rapidity often of a locomotive, 20 or more mil< an hour, and their terrible lurid light by nigh and blackened path left behind, as seen next da by the traveler, are sights never to be forgottei In the lower river counties a prairie fire ofte originates from the careless dropping of a mate! or the ashes shaken from a pipe. The litt spark touches the dry grass like tinder the co: stant breeze fans the little flame, and five minuti after it has covered yards. The loss to tillers < the soil is often appalling. One of Gener Sherman's veterans, in describing a prairie fire 1 a visitor, raising himself to his full six fei height, and with eye flashing as in battle excit ment, said : " Mr. C., if 1 should catch a man firir the prairie at this time, as God helps me, I wou shoot him down in his deed." A traveler ridir on the prairie said, " only a few miles from n an emigrant, traveling in his close-covered wage " zvith the wind, " was overtaken by the flann coming down on him unseen. Horses, famil wagon, were all destroyed in a moment, and hii self barely lived long enough to tell the tal Nearly every night in autumn the prairies of tl boundless West, show either the near or distai glow of a fire, which in extent has the appea auce of another burning Chicago. " 11USTED." Pike's Peak or Itttsf. This expression hf become widely known, and received its origin &iiGIF follows : At the time of the opening of the Tike's Teak excitement in gold diggings, two pioneers made themselves conspicuous by paint- ing in large letters on the side of their wagon cover : " Pike's Peak or Uuxt." In their haste to reach this, the newly discovered Eldorado, they scorned all safety and protection offered by the " train " and traveled alone, and on their " own hook." For days and weeks they escaped the dangers attending their folly, and passed unharmed until they readied the roving ground of the bloody Sioux. Here they were surrounded and cruelly and wantonly murdered ; their bodies were driven through with arrows, and pinned to the earth, and left to the sunshine and storms of the skies. Fremont is 46.5 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 1,176 feet. It is the county- seat of Dodge County, and has a population of full 3,000. In the year 1880, over 100,000 were expended in buildings in this growing young city. It has never, so far as population is con- cerned, experienced what may be called a great rush its growth having been slow and steady. It is located near the south-east corner of the county. Originally the town comprised a whole section of land, but war, afterwards reduced to about half a section. The town company was or- ganized on the 26th day of August, 1856, and in that and the following year, thirteen log houses were built. John C. Hormel built the first frame house in 1857. The Union Pacific reached the town on the 24th day of January, 1866, nearly ten years after it was first laid out, and trains ran to it regularly, though the track was laid some 1 1 miles beyond, when work ceased for that winter. The Sioux City and Pacific road was completed to Fremont late in the fall of 1868. In the expectations of the residents, it was then to become a railroad center, and lots were sold at large prices. This last-named road runs from Blair on the Missouri River, where it crosses said stream and forms a junction with the Chi- cago and North-western. It then runs north on the east side of said river, to Sioux City. The Elkhorn Valley Railroad completed the first ten miles of its track in 1869, and the balance, some seventy miles, was finished to Norfolk in 1880. This road is one of the natural routes to the Black Hills, and it is now stated that it will soon be extended in that direction. It will con- tinue up the Elkhorn Valley to near its source, and then crossing the divide, will strike into the Niobrara Valley; thence westward until the Black Hills are reached. This road is a feeder to Fremont, and very valuable to its trade. At a date not far distant, Fremont will doubtless become a flourishing city, owing its prosperity, in common with many other towns, to the agency of the railroads which will soon connect it with every place of importance. Other railroad projects are contemplated, which will make this place in reality a railroad center. Fremont has a large, new hotel, the Occi' dental, and several smaller ones ; has the finest opera house in the West, and the largest and finest dry-goods house in the State. It has five or six church edifices, and an ele- gant public school building, two banks, three or four elevators, a steam flouring mill, extensive broom factories, and two or three manufacturing establishments where headers are made. It also has a foundry and machine-shop. It is now a regular eat- ing station on the railroad, all passenger trains east or west stopping here lor din- ner, which is really most abundant and ex- cellent. Fremont is virtually located at the junction of the Elkhorn and P^atte Valleys, and from its position naturally controls a large scope of coun- try. Its people are industrious, wide-awake and energetic. It is in the midst of a thickly-settled region, and its future prospects are very flatter- ing. Fremont has two newspapers the Fremont Herald (daily and weekly), and the Ftemont 'tribune (weekly). The latter was first estab- lished, and probably has the largest circulation. The enterprise of newspapers in these western towns, contribute very largely to their growth and prosperity. The town is the fourth in size and population in the State. The Elkhorn Valley is between two and three hundred miles in length, is well timbered and remarkably fertile, and the railroad which is to do the carrying business of this valley, has its terminus at Fremont. The Great Platte Valley. You have now passed over a few miles of the great Platte Valley. At Fremont it spreads out won- derfully, and for the first two hundred miles varies in width from five to fifteen miles. Through nearly all its eastern course, this river hugs the bluffs on its southern side. These bluffs as well as those more distant on the northern side of the valley, are plainly visible from the cars. Before the road was built, this valley was the great highway of overland travel to Colorado, Utah, California, and Oregon. Immense trains of wagons, heavily freighted, have passed over it, in their slow and tedious journeyings towards the setting sun. Leaving the Missouri at differ- ent points, the routes nearly all converged in the Platte Valley, and thence westward to their des- tination. The luxuriant grasses, and the prox- imity to water, made this the favorite route. It has also been the scene of deadly conflicts with the savages, and the bones of many a wanderer lie bleaching in the air, or are buried beneath some rough and hastily-made mound near the beaten road. But a wonderful change took place with the advent of the road. The " bull- whacker," REPRESENTATIVE MEN OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD. 25 with his white-covered wagon and raw-boned oxen his slang phrases, and profane expressions, his rough life, and in many instances violent death the crack of his long lash that would ring out in the clear morning air like that of a rifle, and his wicked goad or prod an instrument of tor- ture to his beasts with all that these things imply, have nearly passed away. Their glory has departed, and in their place is the snorting engine and the thundering train. The remarkable agricultural advantages of this valley are everywhere visible, and it is rapidly filling up with an industrious and thrifty class of farmers. The land grant of the Union Pacific Company extends for twenty miles on either side of the road, and includes every alter- nate section of land that was not taken at the time it was withdrawn from the market, for the benefit of the company. If you pass a long dis- tance in the first two hundred miles of this valley without observing many improvements, it is pretty good evidence that the land is held by non-resident speculators, and this fact has a great influence in retarding the growth of the country. Around many of the residences are large groves of cotton-wood trees that have been planted by industrious hands and which give evidence of unusual thrift. In fact, the cotton- wood in most every part of this region is indig- enous to the soil, and will thriftily grow where other kinds of timber fail. Trees sixty feet high and from eight to ten inches in diameter, are no uncommon result of six to eight years' growth. The banks of the Platte and the many islands in its channel, were formerly very heavily timbered with cotton-wood, but that on its banks has almost entirely disappeared, together with much that was upon the islands. The favorable State and national legislation in regard to tres planting will cause an increase in the timber land of Nebraska in a very short time, and must of necessity, have an influence upon its climate. Many scientists who are familiar with the cir- cumstances attending the rapid development of the trans-Missouri plains and the elevated plateau joining the base of the Rocky Mountains, assert that this vast region of country is gradually undergoing important climatic changes and that one of the results of these changes is the an- nually increasing rainfall. The rolling lands adjoining this valley are all very fertile, and with proper tillage produce large crops of small grain. The bottom lands are better adapted for corn, because it matures later in the season, and these bottom lands are better 'able to stand drouth than the uplands. The roots of the corn penetrate to a great depth, till they reach the moisture from the under-drainage. One of the finest sights that meets the eye of the traveler, is the Platte Valley in the spring or early summer; to our eastern farmer, it is fairly captivating, and all who are familiar with farms and farming in the Eastern States, will be surprised ; no stumps or stones or other obstacles appear to interfere with the progress of the plow, and the black surface-soil is, without doubt, the accumulation of vegetable matter for ages. The Platte Valley must be seen to be appreciated. Only a few years ago it was scarcely tenanted by man, and while the develop- ment has been marked, it will not compare with that which is sure to take place in the near future. There is ample room for the millions yet to come, and the lands of the Union Pacific Company are exceedingly cheap, varying in price from $3 to $10 per acre. The alternate sections of government land for the first two hundred miles of this valley are nearly all taken by homesteaders, or under the preemp- tion laws of congress. Much of it, however, can be purchased at a low price from the occu- pants, who, as a general thing, desire to sell out and go West still. They belong to the uneasy, restless class of frontiers-men, who have decided objections to neighbors and settlements, and who want plenty of room, with no one to molest, in order to grow up with the country. A sod house near a living spring of water is to them a small paradise. They might possibly suffer from thirst, if they had to dig for water, and the labor re- quired to biiild even a sod house, is obnoxious. But this will not hold good of all of them. There are many occupants of these sod houses in the State of Nebraska, and other parts of the West, who, with scanty means are striving for a home for their wives and children, and they cling to the soil upon which they have obtained a claim with great tenacity, and with sure prospects of success. They are woi thy ol all praise in their self-sacrificing efforts. A tew years only will pass by before they will b, surrounded with all the comforts and n,any of the luxuries of life. These are the experiences of many who " bless their stars " to-day that they have sod houses homes in and adjoining the great Platte Valley. Shooting Prairie Hens. This is a favor- ite scene, often witnessed September mornings in the far West. The prairie is covered with its grass, and wild flowers, which last all the season through. Here and there is a stubble field of oats, wheat, or acres on acres of the golden corn, swaying gracefully in the breeze, and perhaps there is a little music from the meadow larks or bird songsters of the fields. The dogs with keen- est of scent, hunt out and stir up the game, and as they rise on wing, the ready gun with its aim, and deadly shot, brings them back lifeless. This is probably the most attractive way to look at a prairie hen, for we must confess that after a slice or two of the meat, as usually served at the eat- ing stations of the railroads, from which we escape with danger to our front teeth, and unsat- isfied stomachs, we can, only exclaim "distance lends enchantment." However tough the meat, if served on the table when first killed, yet if kept till it grows gradually more tender, there is a wild, spicy flavor, which make them very agree- able eating. Buffalo meat and prairie hens are not altogether reliable as viands of the railroad dining stations, still every one must try for him- self, with here and there a chance of finding sweet and tender morsels. good an illustration as any, of the rapid growth of some of the western towns and counties. The county was organized in the spring of 1869, two years after the railroad had passed through it, with Schuyler as the county-seat. In the spring of the present year, 1881, it has an assessed valuation of over $1,700,000, and a population of HUNTING PRAIHIK HENS. Ames At present simply a side track, 53.5 miles from Omaha, and 1.270 feet above the sea. This was formerly called Ketchum ; but bears its present name from Oliver Ames, Esq., one of the builders of this railroad. Observe the size of the trees in the cotton-wood groves and hedges near this place all planted within the memory of the oldest inhabitant. North Bend 61.5 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, and 1.259 feet in elevation, a little less than the preceding station. This is a thriving little town, with several stores, hotel, lumber-yard, grain elevator, etc. It has a pon- toon bridge across the Platte River, which will materially increase its tradu with Saunders County on the south. The opening of many farms in its vicinity have made it quite a grain market. The town is so named from a northward bend in the river, and it is the northernmost point on the Union Pacific in the, State of Nebraska. The population is about 300. Itof/ers is a side-track, will eventually be- come a station ; is in the midst of a rich fann- ing country ; is 68.5 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 1,359 feet. Schui/ler. The county-seatof Coif ax County, It is 75.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 1,335 feet. This town and county, perhaps, is as 1,500 or more: Evidences of substantial growth are everywhere visible. The town has about twenty stores, of all kinds, two hotels, a substan- tial brick court-house, five churches, a beautiful school-house, grain elevators, etc. New buildings to accommodate its increasing trade, or its new residents, are constantly going up. There are three flouring-mills in the county, on Shell Creek, a beautiful stream fed by living springs, which runs nearly through the county from west to east, and from one to five miles north of the railroad track. The land in this county is most excellent, especially the rolling np-land north of Shell Creek. Some of the finest crops of spring wheat raised in the West are grown in this vicinity. The peo- ple are turning their attention to stock-raising more than formerly, and several flocks of sheep and herds of cattle are now kept in the county, by some of its enterprising stock-men. All of this accomplished in about six years. Schuyler is the third town west of ( )inaha that has a bridge across the Platte, Fremont being thefirst. These bridges are very advantageous to the trade of the towns in this valley. Benton. A small station 83.7 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 1,440 feet. Up to ; a late period the land surrounding this station has been mostly held by speculators, but a change 27 having been effected, the town has brighter pros- i pects. Lots are freely given away to parties who will build on them. The location is a very fine one for a town, and it is surrounded by an ex- cellent country. It is the last town west in Colt'ax County. Coltimbus is 91.7 miles from Omaha. It is 1,432 feet above the sea. A beautiful growing town, with a rich agricultural country to back it. It has seven churches, school buildings, brick court-house, grain elevator doing a large business. Good hotels and other building enter- prises contemplated. It is located at the junc- tion of the Loup Fork, with the Platte Rivet's, and near where the old overland emigrant road crossed the first-named stream. It now has a population of about 2,200 people, and supports two newspapers which have large patronage and circulation ; the Journal, which was first estab- lished, and the Era. Columbus has had two lives thus far. The first town-site was jumped by a party of Germans from Columbus, O., from which it takes its name. Afterwards the two interests were consolidated. It was the principal town west of Omaha until the rail- road came. The old town, near the ferry cross- ing, was then moved to its present site near the station. The old town had two or three small stores, a blacksmith's shop, and saloons ad libiiu'ii. It was mostly kept alive by the westward emigration. At that time the Platte Valley was well supplied with ranches and ranchmen, only other names for whisky-shops and bar-tenders. During the week those con- cerns would pick up what they could from wagon- trains, and Sundays the ranchmen would crowd into Columbus to spend it the sharpers improv- ing the opportunity to fleece the victims of their seductive wiles. At this time no attention what- ever was paid to agricultural pursuits. On the advent of the railroad in 1866, the wood-chop- pers, the freighters, the ranchmen and others, lured by the charms of a frontier life, jumped the town and country. They could not endure the proximity to, and restraints of civilization. Then the second or new life of the town be- gan. Farmers began to come in, and it was found by actual experiment that the soil was immensely prolific ; that it had only to be tickled with the plow in order to laugh with the golden harvests. In the lapse of the few brief years of its second or permanent growth, it has be- come a great grain market, aud probably ships more car-lo. ids each year (1,785 car-loads last year) than any other town on the line of the road. Men draw grain from seventy to eighty miles to this place for a market. It has access to the country south of the Loup and Platte Rivers, by means of good, substantial bridges ; while the country north of it is as fine rolling prairie as can be found in any part of the West well watered and adapted to either grazing or the growing of crops. The men who first came to Columbus were nearly all poor, and it has been built up and improved by the capital they have acquired through their own industrious toil. The town has a good bank, without a dollar of foreign capital. The A. & N. R. R. runs south- east to Atchison, and Niobrara and Black Hills Branch U. P. R. R. northward to Norfolk. In the immediate vicinity are large quantities of good lands which are held at low prices. These are only a few of the many advantages which Colum- bus offers to those in search of future homes. How Buffalo Itobes (ire Made. George Clother is one of the proprietors of the Clother House at Columbus, Neb. It is one of the best home-like hostelries in the West. Mr. Clother is an old resident, having been in Columbus six- teen years. When he first came, the country was more or less overrun with wandering tribes of Indians, among whom were the Pawnees, the Omahas, the Sioux, and occasionally a stray band from some other tribe. In those days he was accustomed to traffic in furs and robes, and the business has grown with his increasing acquaint- ance, until it is now both large and profitable, though with the disappearance of both Indians and buffaloes, it is liable to decrease in the future. General Sheridan, we think it was, said that the vexed Indian question would be settled with the fate of the buffaloes that both would disappear together. During the past few years, the slaugh- ter of these proud monarchs of the plains, has been immense, and will continue, unless Congress interposes a friendly and saving hand. It is safe to say, that millions of them have been killed for their hides alone, or " just for fun," which in this case amounts to the same thing, as their hides have been repeatedly sold for less than a dollar, and regularly not more than f 1.50. This slaughtering has taken place principally in the Platte, Republican, Solomon, and Arkansas Val- leys, and where a few years since, travelers could see countless thousands of them from the car windows and platforms, on either the Union Pacific, Kansas Pacific or Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroads, they now, probably will see but few, if any. Their hides have been shipped East, where they make a poor quality of leather. Those only which are taken late in the fall and during the winter months of January and Febru- ary, are fit for robes. The hair at this season of the year, is thick and firmly set. About the time this killing process began in 1870, Mr. Clother entered upon the work of tan- ning robes, employing for this purpose the squaws of the Pawnee and Omaha tribes. The Pawnee reservation was only a short distance from Co- lumbus, and the " Bucks " were glad of the opportunity of employment for their squaws. Labor is beneath their dignity, and they despise it. Besides this, tanning robes is hard and slow work, and in their opinion, just fit for squaws. For a few years the squaws of both of the tribes named, have been engaged by MS. Clother, but the de- parture of the Pawnees to their reservation in the Indian Territory, precluded the possibility of their employment, and hence in the winter of 1876, the Omahas seem to have a monopoly of the work, though there is not as much to do as for- merly. We visited their camp to inspect the proc- ess of making robes. It was located in a body, of heavy timber, with a thick growth of under- brush, on the narrow point of land where the Loup Fork and Platte Rivers form their junction. The low bushes made a perfect wind-break, and in the midst of the tall trees their Sibley tents were pitched. The barking of numerous dogs greeted our approach, and after making a few inquiries of one or two who could talk broken English, we crawled into the tent occupied by the " Bucks," whom we found intensely interested in gambling playing a game with cards called " 21." In this tent were nine " Bucks " and one squaw; three sat stolidly by disinterested wit- nesses of the game ; the squaw was engaged at some very plain needle-work, and occasionally poked the partly burned brands into the fire, which was in the center of the tent, and over which hung _a kettle of boiling meat; the re- maining six, sitting upon a blanket a la Turk, were shuffling and dealing the cards. Of course they play for money, and before them were sev- eral quarters in currency, and several silver quar- ters, with some small sticks, which were used as money, and which enabled them to keep an ac- count with each other, of the gains and losses. During this game they passed around, several times, a hollow-handled tomahawk, which was used as a pipe. One would take three or four whiffs, then pass it to the next, and so on, until it had been passed around several times. One f these "Bucks" was called " Spafford." lie could talk English quite well. After a while \\>> asked " Spafford " to show us some robes, but he 29 pointed in the direction of his tent, and indicated where they could be found. He said he could not leave the game just then. We went to MS tent where we found his mother', who showed us two robes, one of which was hers a smaller one which she held at six dollars. Spaft'ord had pre- viously told us that $12.00 was the price of his robe. We then began to look for other robes, and saw them in various stages of completion. The process of tanning is simple, and yet, Indian tanned robes far excel those tanned by white men, in finish and value. When the hides are first taken from the animals, they must be stretched and dried, flesh side up ; if they are not in this condition when the squaws receive them, they must do it. After they are thor- oughly dried, the squaws then take all. the flesh off, and reduce them to an even thickness, with an instrument, which, for want of a better name, may be termed an adze ; it is a little thin piece of iron, about two inches long on the edge, and two and a half inches deep. This is firmly tied to a piece of the thigh bone of an elk, and is used the same as a small garden hoe, by eastern farmers in cutting up weeds. When the requi- site thickness is obtained, the flesh side is cov- ered with a preparation of lard, soap and salt, and the robe is then rolled up and laid by for two or three days. It is then unrolled and again stretched on a frame, like a quilt, with flesh side to the sun ; in this shape it is scraped with a thin, oval-shaped piece of iron or steel, resem- bling a kitchen chopping-knife without the han- dle; this process usually lasts about two days. The robe is then taken from the frame, and drawn across a rope stretched between two trees, with the flesh side to the rope, until it becomes thoroughly dry and soft. This last process makes it very pliable, requires a good deal of time and strength, and renders the robe ready for market. Before the Indians came in con- tact with civilization, they used sharpened pieces ,of bone, instead of the pieces of iron we have named, and in place of the preparation of lard, soap and salt, they used buffalo brains, which are considered altogether preferable to this mixture ; the brains of cattle are also used when they can be obtained ; but the robes are taken out on the plains, or in the Platte and Republican Valleys, and brought here by wagon or rail, and of course the brains cannot very well be brought with them. The squaws laughed when we pulled out our note-book and began to write, being evidently as much astonished and interested as we; they looked with wonder at the- book, pencil, and the -words we wrote. While the lazy " Bucks," sit in .their tents and gamble, the squaws are laboring hard to secure means for their support. An Indian is constitutionally opposed to labor. He is evidently tired all the time. Duncan So called from a former conduc- .fcor of the Union Pacific is 99.3 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 1,470 feet. The Loup Valley is just over the hills to your right, and the magnificent Platte bottom lands are still stretching out before you. It has one or two stores and bears a thrifty appearance; at one time it was supposed that this place or Columbus would be made the end of a division, but nothing has been developed on this subject within the past few years. Silver Creek 109.4 miles from Omaha, and 1,534 feet above the sea. It is the first station in Merrick County, as Duncan was the last in Platte County. North of this station is the Pawnee reservation, one of the finest bodies of land yet unoccupied in the State. This once powerful tribe, between whom and the Sioux a deadly hostility exists, has dwindled down to small numbers, and during 1875, they abandoned their reservation entirely and went to the Indian Territory. An attempt was made a short time since to sell a part of this reservation at an ap- praised valuation, but it was not successful, and efforts are now being made to bring it into market under the preemption laws of the govern- ment at a fixed price, ($2.50 per acre) the pro- ceeds of which are to go to the tribe on their new reservation. When this takes place Silver Creek will have a great impetus to its growth and trade, as it is the nearest railroad station to this reservation. Clark. Named after S. H. H. Clark, gene- ral superintendent of the Union Pacific; it is sometimes called Clark's, Clarksville and Clark's Station. It is 120.7 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, with an elevation of 1,610 feet. It has three stores, school-house, church, shops and dwellings, and is doing a fine trade ; with a rich country around it, and the Pawnee reservation soon to be opened on the north, it is destined to become a thrifty town. Central City. The county-seat of Merrick County ; has two or three churches, several stores, a bricK court-house, school-house, hotels and nu- merous other buildings. Here is a bridge across the Platte. Population 650. The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad forms a junc- tion with the Union Pacific, here. Local dis- sensions have injured the town in the past, and must operate to retard its growth in the future. About three miles west of this place a new side track has been put in. It is yet unnamed, though it will probably be called Lone Tree, and it is ex- pected that a post-office with the same name will be established Merrick County has two flouring- mills, both of which are run by water, taken from the Platte River. The identical "lone tree," from which the place was named, has long since disappeared, but numerous groves of cotton-wood are everywhere visible. For 40 miles here the railroad track is perfectly straight. Chapman. 142.3 miles from Omaha, and 1,760 feet above the sea. It is named after a 30 former road-master of the Union Pacific. The town has two stores, school-house, and other buildings, and is in the midst of a fine, thickly settled country. Ltockivood is 147.8 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 1,800 feet. It is a side track where trains meet and pass. A store has re- cently been opened where a lively trade is done. Grand Island. The end of the first divi- sion of the Union Pacific Railroad, 153.8 miles from Omaha, and 1,850 feet above the sea. The town is named after an island in the Platte River, which is some forty miles long, and from one to three miles in width. It was first settled by a colony of Germans from Davenport, la., in 1857. The island is thickly settled, nearly every quar- ter section being occupied by a thrifty farmer. The soil is wonderfully prolific, being composed of a black vegetable mold, and is especially adapted to corn raising. The old town site of Grand Island was south of the present site, on the old emigrant road. The first three years of this town were very severe on the settlers. They had to haul all their supplies from Omaha, and part of this time they were obliged to live on short rations. They immediately began the cul- tivation of the soil, but at first had no market for their crops. This was soon remedied, how- ever, by the opening of a market at Fort Kearny, some forty miles west, where they obtained good prices for everything they could raise. In a short time, the rush to Pike's Peak began, and as this was the last place on the route where emi- grants could obtain grain and other supplies, the town grew, and many who are now in good cir- cumstances, then laid ths foundations of their prosperity. In this vicinity stray buffaloes first appeared to the early settlers of the valley. They never came in large herds, but when hunted by the Indians further west and south in the Repub- lican Valley they would be seen wandering near this place. While the war was in progress, the settlers frequently saw war parties of the Sioux pass to and from the Pawnee camp on the high bluffs south of the Platte River, and opposite Fremont. When they returned from their at- tacks, they would exhibit the scalps they had taken, and manifest great glee as they swung them through the air, dangling from their spears. In the early spring of 1859 the stages from Omaha began to run. At first they came once a week, then twice, and later, daily. Then the telegraph line was put up. Meanwhile the trans-continental railroad was agitated, and as it became more and more talked about, the settlers here fondly hoped that they were on the exact spot where the three converging lines, as first proposed, would meet. But they were doomed to disappointment. The Union Pacific, Eastern Division, now the Kansas Pacific, grew into an independent line, while the Sioux City & Pacific had its course changed, finally uniting with the Union Pacific at Fremont. But the railroad came at last in 1866. The heavy bodies of tim- ber on the islands in the river and between the Platte and Wood Rivers were nearly all taken for cross-ties. It was only cotton-wood, but it would hold the spikes and rails for a few years until others could be obtained. Then the buildings on the old town site were moved up to the rail- road and the town began to grow. The round- house for the steam-horses was built, and the town was made the end of a division of the road. An eating-house was erected, and stores, shops, and dwellings followed in quick succession. It is the county-seat of Hall County, and the first station in the county from the east. It has a fine large brick court-house, three church edi- fices, school-house, hotels, bank, and one of the largest steam flouring-mills in the State. This is one of the regular dining-stations on the road. In 1875 the company put up an elegant hotel for the accommodation of the traveling public, at which all passenger trains stop for meals. It is exceedingly well kept, and under its pres' ent management will command the patronage of the public. T-iike all other towns of any importance in this A'alley, Grand Island hopes and expects more railroads. The St. Joseph and Western Division of the Union Pacific runs to St. Joseph, and the St. Paul Branch of the Union Pacific runs northward to St. Paul, Neb. , 22 miles. A line is also projected to the northwest, and one to the northeast to reach Sioux City. Its present population is about3,000, and its prospects for the future are flattering. The country in this immediate vicinity is welJ settled by a thrifty class of German farmers, who have dug wealth from the soil, and when rations were scarce and border scares frequent, sf.ill hung on to their claims. The road came in 1836, and gave them communication with the outer world. The location of the roundhouse and necessary repair shops, for the division, is a great help to the town, as they give employment to quite a number of skilled mechanics. It is also the lo- cation of the government land office for the Grand Island land district. It has two weekly newspapers, the Times and Independent, both 'of which are well conducted. The new eating- house, elsewhere spoken of, is the finest on the road, though less expensive than many. It cost about $15,000. This is a breakfast and supper station, and the company has furnished ample accommodations for the patrons of this house. After leaving Grand Island, a magnificent stretch of prairie country opens to view. The same may be said of the entire valley, but the view in 'other places is more limited by bluffs and hills than here. After passing Silver Creek, there is a section of the road, mo'-e than forty miles, in a straight line, but the extent of prairie brought into vision there is not as large as here. Up to this point, you have doubtless witnessed 31 many groves of cotton-wood around the numer- ous dwellings you have passed, but they begin to diminish now nearly the last of them oeiug seen at Alda, the next station, some eight miles west of Grand Island, 101.5 miles from Omaha, at an elevation of 1,907 feet. There are one or two stores, a school-house, and several dwellings. It is two miles east of Wood River, which is spanned by a first-class iron bridge. All regular passenger trains stop at this station and receive and deliver mails. In other parts of the country, Wood River would be called a rivulet or small brook, but snch streams are frequently dig- nified with the name of rivers in the West. It forms a junction with the North Channel of the Platte River, just south of Grand Island. Its rise is in the bluffs across the divide, north of Plum Creek, and its general course is due east. The road runs along its southern bank for several miles, and in several places it is fringed with timber. When the road was first built through here, it was well timbered, but it was nearly all taken for construction purposes and fuel. In early days, say in 1859-00, this valley was the frontier settlement of the West, and a few of the old pioneer log houses are still standing, though very much dilapidated. The settlers had a few " Indian scares," and lost some stock, but beyond this, no great depredation was done. Fort Kearny was their first market-place to which they hauled their surplus grain and provisions. Though Wood River is so small, it nevertheless supplies three flcuring-mills with power for grinding, and there are several mill sites unoc- cupied. The first mill is near the iron bridge already spoken of, and the others will be noticed further on. Wood River is the name of the next sta- tion. It has two or three stores, several dwellings, and a new depot building. It is 169.6 miles from Omaha, and 1,974 feet above the sea. The old station was two miles further west, and the Cath- olic church still remains to mark the place where it stood. The country around here was first settled by some Irish families; they are indus- trious and worthy citizens, and have developed some fine farms. Prairie, or blue joint-grass has been principally seen thus far, but now you will observe patches of buffalo grass which increase as you go west, and of which we shall speak hereafter. This is the last station in Hall County. S/it'lton comes next a side track, depot, a few dwellings, and another of those flouring- mills spoken of. In January, 1876, the water in Wood River was sufficient to keep three run of burrs going in this mill for about twenty out of every twenty-four hours. The flour made at nearly all the mills on the Union Pacific finds a teady market in the mountain towns west, to Which it is usually shipped. Shelton was named after & former cashier of the Union Pacific road at Omaha. It has an elevation of 2,010 feet, and is 177.4 miles from the eastern terminus of the road. Successful Farming. The little farms which now fill up the Platte Valley as far as North Platte are occupied by people who came from the older States, with very little cash capi- tal, and by homesteading or warrant or purchase from the railroad on time, they have made many a snug home. To show what has been done by real industry, we quote from actual records the figures of the success of a farmer in Platte County. Beginning with the year 1867, and up to the year 1874, seven years, he cultivated in wheat and corn, an average of sixty to eighty acres wheat, and fifty acres corn; total 130 acres. His re- ceipts from these two crops only, in seven years, was $13,314.05; expenses, 9 4,959.92; profits, $8,354.13, besides increase of value of land, which is fully $2,000 more. This is what was done with a capital of less than $2,000. Tree Plantlny in Nebraska. The Ne- braskans celebrate a special day in the spring months as a holiday, in which the entire popula- tion join hands in a hearty exercise at tree plant- ing; this is called Arbor Day. Travelers will notice from the car windows on their first day's ride westward from Omaha, quite a number of pretty groves of trees, planted both as wind- breaks for their farms, and also for timber plant- ations. The tree most popular is the cotton- wood, which grows very easily, sure to start, and is quite luxuriant in foliage ; however it is valuable for shelter and stove-wood only, not for manu- factures. As an instance of rapidity of giowth, there are trees in the Platte Valley, which planted as cuttings, have in thirteen years measured 22 inches in diameter. Little boys are tempted by large premiums from their parents to test their capacity at tree planting on Arbor Day, and as- tonishing rapidity has occasionally been known, one farmer in one day having planted from sun- rise to sundown, 14,000 trees, and in the course of one spring season, over 200,000. Settlers, as fast as they arrive, aim to accomplish two things. First, to break the sod for a corn field ; next, to plant timber shelter. The winds which blow from the west ae very constant, often fierce, and a shelter is of immense value to stock and fruit trees. Hedges of white willow, several miles in length, have been laid, which at five years from cuttings, have made a perfect fence 15 feet high ; one farm alone has four miles of such continu- ous fence, which at four years of age was a com- plete protection. The rapidity of growth in the rich alluvial soil of the Platte Valley reminds one of tropical luxuriance. A grove of white ash, in twelve years, has grown to an average of 26 inches in circumference, and 30 feet high. Walnut trees, in eight years, have measured 22 inches in circumference, and 25 feet high. Ma EMINENT AMERICAN EXPLORERS AND ARTISTS. 1. Qen. Ouster. 2. Gen. Fremont. 3. Lieut. Wheeler. 4. Prof. F. V. Hayden. 5. Albert Bientadv. 6. Maj. J. W. Powell. 7. Thomas Moran. 33 pletrees,of twelve years,measure43 inches around four feet from the ground. Elms of fourteen years, show 36 inches in girt, and a foot in diam- eter. Honey Locusts, eleven years of age, are 30 feet high, and 30 inches around. Cotton-wood trees, of thirteen years, have reached 66 inches in circumference, and 22 inches in diameter. White willow, same age, 45 inches in circumference. Nebraska planted 10,000,000 trees in 1878. (libbon, the last station on Wood River, is 182.9 miles from the Missouri by rail, and has an elevation of 2,046 feet. It was formerly the county-seat of Buffalo County, and had a fine brick court-house erected. But the county-seat was voted to Kearny Junction in 1874, and the building is now used for school purposes. It has a hotel, several stores, and another of those flour- ing-mills, in plain sight from the track. The Platte River is some three miles distant, to the south, and glistens in the sunlight like a streak of silver; the level prairie between is studded with farm-houses, and in the late summer or early autumn numerous stacks of grain and hay are everywhere visible around the farmers' homes. The bluffs, south of the Platte, rear their low heads in the distance, and your vision is lost on prairie, prairie, prairie, as you look to the north. Beautiful as these prairies are in the spring and early summer, their blackened surface in the fall, if burned, or their dull drab color, if unburned, is monotonous ani wearying. Buda. has an elevation of 2,106 feet, is 191.3 miles from Omaha. Tne town is named Kearny, and takes its name from General Kearny, who was an officer ill the regular army during the Mexican war. Old Fort Kearny was located near this station, south of the Platte River, and the military reser- vation of government land still remains, though it will probably soon be brought into market. The rights, if they have any, of " squatter sovereigns " will here be tested, as nearly every quarter section in the whole reserve is occupied by them, some of whom have made valuable improvements in the shape of buildings, etc. It was formerly a great shipping point for cattle, but the advancing tide of settlements has driven stock-men, like the Indians, still further west. Occasionally, however. Texas herds are grazed near here, and the herders sometimes visit Kearny Junction, a few miles west, and attempt to run the town ; they murdered a man there in 1875, in cold blood shot him dead on the threshold of his own door and this so incensed the inhabitants in the vicinity that they will not, probably, allow them to visit the town in future. The murderer was arrested, has been convicted, and time will tell whether he will be hung or not. Texas herders, as a class, are rough fellows, with long hair and beard, wide-rimmed hats, best fitting boots they can get, large spurs jingling at their heels, a small arsenal, in the shape of Colt's revolvers, strapped to their waists with a careless neytigee appearance. Their chief pleas- ure is in a row; their chief drink is "whisky straight," and they usually seem to feel better when they have killed somebody. Houses of prostitution and tippling saloons follow close in their wake. They are generous to their friends, dividing even the last dollar with a comrade who is " broke ; " cowardly, treacherous and revenge- ful to their enemies. Human life is of but little account with them. Their life is one of constant exposure, and very laborious. They are perfect horsemen usually in the saddle sixteen out of every twenty-four hours and their great ambi- tion seems to be to become "a devil of a fellow," generally. Nor does it require much care or effort on their part, to fill the bill. Thousands of them on the plains in their native State, in Kansas, Colorado, Wyoming, and Nebraska "have died with their boots on," and we suppose thousands more will perish the same way. Living violent lives, of course they meet with violent deaths. They are a peculiar race, answering, perhaps, a peculiar purpose. The community in which they live, and the country generally, will be bet- ter off when they have passed away, for almost ninety-nine out of every hundred goes " Down to the vile dust from whence he sprung, Unwept, unhonored and unsung." Kearny has now nothing but a side track, depot and water-tank, with a section-house and the remains of an old corral from which cattle used to be shipped. The reservation included not only land on both sides of the river, but a large island which extends east and west quite a number of miles. The fort was south of the river, and scarcely a vestige now remains to mark the spot where the buildings formerly stood. This fort was built in 1858, by Colonel Charles May, of Mexican war fame. Three miles west of the old fort was Kearny City, which was a considerable town in the old over-' land times, but it disappeared with the advent" of the railroad. The southern part of the reserva- tion is covered with sand-hills, and useless, ex- cept for grazing. Notice how the buffalo grass appears and how its extent is increased as you go further west. The new houses around the sta- tion, especially those of the squatters on the reser- vation, are increasing, which indicates that the country is fast settling up. Kearni/ Junction. \ lively, enterprising town, 195.3 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,150 feet. It is the junction of the Burling- ton and Missouri Railroad only, and owes its rapid development to this fact more than to any- thing else. Formerly the St. Joe and Denver Railroad ran trains to this place, using the track of the Burlington and Missouri from Hastings, a smart little town twenty-four miles south of Grand Island. But this was abandoned, and the road has been built to Grand Island 34 as a branch of the Union Pacific Railroad. Kearney Junction was laid out by the town company in September, 1872, about the same time the Burlington and Missouri Eailroad arrived. The first house was built in August, 1872, and the town has grown very rapidly ever since; it now has a population of 2,000 souls, six church edifices, one daily news- paper the Press; one weekly The Times; two brick bank buildings, and other brick blocks, with hotels, numerous stores, school- house, court-house, etc. It has a daily stage line to Bloomington, a thriving town some sixty miles south, in the Eepublican Val- ley, and quite an extensive trade from it and the South Loup Valley on the north ; some of the stores here do quite a wholesale trade. The town is finely located on a gradual slope, and from the hills or bluffs on its north side the land in seven counties can be distinctly seen ; it has the vim and energy which usually characterizes Western towns ; it is an aspirant for the capital if it is ever moved from Lincoln, and has ground on the hill reserved for the loca- tion of the State buildings ; it also expects a railroad from Sioux City, and one from the Re- publican Valley ; altogether its future prospects are bright. Splendid crops of wheat, corn, oats, barley, broom-corn, potatoes, cabbages, and onions are raised in this vicinity during favorable seasons, but we regard the stock business as the best paying and surest investment for settlers; the buffalo grass, to our mind, is a sure indica- tion of it. Kearny Junction is very healthy, and invalids would here find an agreeable resting- place. Stevenson has an elevation of 2,170 feet, and .is 201.2 miles from the Missouri River. It is simply a side track with a section-house near by. The way settlers have pushed up this valley daring the last five years, is marvelous. Eltn Creek is 211.5 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,241 feet. In the first 200 miles of your journey, you have attained an alti- tude more than a thousand feet above Omaha, where you started, and yet the ascent has been so gradual that you have scarcely noticed it. Elm Creek was so named after the creek which you cross just after leaving the station going west. It was formerly heavily timbered with elm, ash, hackberry and a few walnuts and cotton-woods ; but the necessities of the road when it was built required it all and more too. The town has one or two saloons, stores, school-house and a few dwellings. The creek rises in the bluffs north- west, and sluggishly worries through them and the sand, till it is finally swallowed up by the Platte. But little timber remains in this vicinity. The next station, some nine miles west of Elm Creek, called Overton has the usual side track, school- house, a store and some few dwellings. This valley, to this point and beyond, would have been thickly settled long before this but for climatic reasons which we need not name. The Plattt. Valley extends on either side here nearly as far as the eye can reach. The town is 220.5 miles from Omaha, at an elevation of 2,305 feet. Josselyn, A side track ; will eventually be- come a station ; named after the pay-master of the Union Pacific Road. It is 225.1 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of about 2,330 feet above the sea. Plum Creek. So named from a creek on the south side of the riv.er, which flows into the Platte nearly opposite the town. The stage- station, on the old overland road was located on this creek and in those days it was considered quite an important point It was the scene of h. number of conflicts with the savages in fact on e of their favorite points of attack; eleven while persons were killed and several wounded during one of these attacks. Four miles west of the present town-site they captured and burned a train of cars in 1867; one of the train men was scalped and recently was still living in or near Omaha ; one was killed, and the others, we be- lieve, made their escape. The nature of the bluffs here is such that they had a good oppor- tunity to attack and escape before the settlers and emigrants could rally and give them battle. The creek rises in a very bluffy region, and runs north-east into the Platte. Plum Creek is the county-seat of Dawson Coimty ; has about 500 inhabitants ; a fine brick courtrhouse with jail underneath, one church edifice, school-house, two or three hotels, stores, warehouses, etc. It is a point where considerable broom-corn is pur- chased and shipped ; has a semi-weekly stage li>\e across the Republican Valley to Norton, in tne State of Kansas, and a weekly newspaper. There is a substantial wagon bridge across the Platte River, nearly three-quarters of a mile in length. It is located in the midst of a very fine grazing country, though in favorable seasons crops Inn c done well. With irrigation, perhaps they might be made a certainty. This town also enjoy.*. quite a trade with the upper Republican Valley It was formerly a favorite range for buffaloes, and large quantities of their bleaching bones* have been gathered and shipped by rail to St. Louis and places east. It is 231.4 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,370 feet. Battle with the Indians at Plum. Creek. While the railroad was being built, the engineers, graders and track-layers were fre- quently driven from their work by the Indians. Not only then, but after the track was laid and trains running, it was some times torn up and trains ditched, causing loss of lives and destruc- tion of property. One of these attacks took place near Plum Creek, as we will now relate. In July, 1867, a train was ditched about four miles west of the above-named station. It 35 was by a band of southern Cheyennes, under a chief called Turkey Leg, who now draws his rations regularly from Uncle Sam, at the Red Cloud agency. He is a vicious looking fellow, his appearance naturally suggesting him as a fit subject for a hanging bee. At a small bridge, or culvert, over a dry ravine, they had lifted the iron rails from their chairs on the ties raising only one end of each rail about three feet, pil- ing up ties under them for support, and firmly lashing the rails and ties together by wire cut from the adjoining telegraph line. They were pretty cunning in this arrangement of the rails, and evidently placed them where they thought they would penetrate the cylinder on each side of the engine. But not having a mechanical turn of mind exactly, and disregarding the slight curve in the road at this point, they missed their calculations, as the sequel shows, as one of the i ails did no execution whatever, and the other went straight into and through the boiler. After they had fixed the rails in the manner described, they retired to where the bench or second bottom slopes down to the first, and there concealed themselves in the tall grass, waiting for the train. Before it left Plum Creek, a hand-car with three section men was sent ahead as a pilot. This car encountered the obstacle, and ran into the ravine, bruising and stunning the men and frightening them so that they were unable to signal to the approaching train. As soon as the car landed at the bottom of the ravine, the Indians rushed up, when two of the men, least hurt, ran away in the darkness of the night it was little past mid- night and hid in the tall grass near by. The other, more stunned by the fall of the car, was scalped by the savages, and as the knife of the savage passed under his scalp, he seemed to realize his condition partly, and in his delirium wildly threw his arms out and snatched the scalp from the Indian, who had just lifted it from his skull. With this he, too, got away in the dark- ness, and is now an employe of the company at Omaha. But the fated train came on without any knowledge of what had transpired in front. As the engine approached the ravine, the head-light gleaming out in the darkness in the dim dis- tance, fast growing less and less, the engineer, Brooks Bowers by name, but familiarly called " Bully Brooks " by the railroad men, saw that the rails were displaced, whistled "down brakes," and reversed his engine, but all too late to stop the train. The door of the fire-box was open, and the fireman was in the act of adding fuel to the flames within, when the crash came. That fireman was named Hendershot, and the boys used to speak of him as " the drummer boy of the Rappahannock," as he bore the same name, and might have been the same person whose heroic deeds, in connection with Burn- side's attack on Fredericksburg, are now matters of history. He was thrown against the fire-box when the ravine was reached, and literally roasted alive, nothing but a few of his bones be- ing afterwards found. The engineer was thrown over the lever he was holding in his hands, through the window of his cab, some twenty feet or more. In his flight the lever caught and rip- ped open his abdomen, and when found he was sitting on the ground holding his protruding bowels in his hands. Next to the engine were two flat cars loaded with brick. These were landed, brick and all, some thirty or forty feet in front of the engine, while the box cars, loaded with freight, were thrown upon the engine and around the wreck in great disorder. After a time these took fire, and added horror to the scene. The savages now swarmed around the train and whooped and yelled in great glee. When the shock first came, however, the con- ductor ran ahead on the north side of the track to the engine, and there saw Bowers and Hender- shot in the position we have described them. He told them he must leave them and flag the second section of the train following after, or it, too, would be wrecked. He then ran back, sig- naled this train, and with it returned to Plum Creek. Arriving there in the middle of the night, in vain did he try to get a force of men to proceed at once to the scene of the disaster. No one would go. In the morning, however, they rallied, armed themselves and went out to the wreck. By this time it was near ten o'clock. The burning box cars had fallen around the brave engineer, and while the fiery brands had un- doubtedly added to his agony, they had also ended his earthly existence. His blackened and charred remains only told of his suffering. The rescuing party found the train still burning the Indians had obtained all the plunder they could carry, and left in the early morning. In the first gray dawn of the morning they manifested their delight over the burning train in every possible way, and their savage glee knew no bounds. From the cars not then burned they rolled out boxes and bales of merchandise, from which they took bright-colored flannels, calicos, and other fancy goods. Bolts of these goods they would loosen, and with one end tied to their ponies' tails or the horn of their saddles, they would mount and start at full gallop up and down the prairie just to see the bright colors streaming in the wind behind them. But the end of this affair was not yet. The avenging hand of justice was on the track of these blood-thirsty villains, who, for some inscrutable reason, are permitted 'to wear the human form. In the spring of that year, by order of General Augur, then in com- mand of the military department of the Platte, Major Frank North, of Columbus, Neb., who had had no little experience in the business, was authorized to raise a battalion of two hundred Pawnee Indians, who were peaceable and friendly towards the whites, and whose reservation is near Columbus, for scouting duty. It was the old experiment of fighting the devil with fire to be tried over again. These scouts were to fight the various hostile bands of the Sioux, Arrapa- hoes, and Cheyennes, and assist in guarding the railroad, and the railroad builders. At the time this train was attacked, these scouts were scat- tered in small detachments along the line of the road between Sidney and the Laramie Plains. General Augur was immediately notified of it, and he telegraphed Major North to take the nearest company of his scouts and repair as soon as possible to the scene of the disaster. At that time, Major North was about fourteen miles west of Sidney, at the end of the track, and his nearest company was some twelve miles further on. Mounting his horse, he rode to their camp in about fifty minutes, got his men together, and leaving orders for the wagons to follow, returned, arriving at the end of the track at about four o'clock in the afternoon. By the time these men and horses were loaded on the cars, the wagons had arrived, and by five o'clock the train pulled out. Arriving at Julesburg, they were attached to a passenger train, and by midnight, or within twenty-four hours after the disaster took place, he arrived at the scene. Meanwhile other white troops, stationed near by, had arrived. In the morning he was ordered" by General Augur to follow the trail and ascertain whether the at- tack had been made by northern or southern In- dians. With ten men he started on the scout. The sharp-sighted Pawnees soon struck the trail. They found where the hostile band had crossed the river, and where they had abandoned some of their plunder. They followed the trail all that day, and found that it bore south to the Republican Valley. From this fact, and other indications that only Indians would notice, he ascertained that the attacking band were south- ern Cheyennes. Returning from this scout, after about thirty-five miles' travel, he reported to the commanding officer at Omaha, and received orders to remain in the vicinity, and thoroughly scout the country, the belief being generally en- tertained among the officers that, if not followed, the Indians would soon return on another raid. Subsequent events proved this belief to be true, and they had not long to wait. In about ten days, their camp being at Plum Creek, one of the scouts came running into camp from the bluffs south of Plum Creek, and reported that the Indians were coming. He had discovered them in the distance, making their way in the direction of the old overland stage station, which they soon after reached. Arriving here, they unsaddled their horses and turned them loose in an old sod corral to feed and rest. They then began preparations to remain all night. The scouts, however, proposed to find out who and what they were before the evening approached. Major North first determined to go with the company himself, but at the urgent solicitation of Capt. James Murie, finally gave him charge of the expedition. There were in the command, two white commissioned officers Lieut. Isaac Davis, besides the Captain two white ser- geants, and forty-eight Pawnees. The company marched from their camp straight south to the Platte River, which they crossed ; then turning to the left followed down its bank under tho bushes to within about a mile and a half of tho creek. Here they were discovered by the Chey. ennes. Then there was mounting in hot haste the Cheyennes at once preparing for the fray. There were one hundred and fifty warriors to b<> pitted against this small band of fifty-two, a/1 told. But the Cheyennes, up to this time, sup- posed they were to fight white soldiers, and wero very confident of victory. Forming in regular line, on they rushed to the conflict. Captain Murie's command, as soon as they found they were discovered, left the bushes on the rivei bank and went up into the road, where they formed in line of battle and were ordered to charge. As the order was given, the Pawnees set up their war-whoop, slapped their breasts with their hands and shouted " Pawnees." The opposing lines met on the banks of the creek, through which the scouts charged with all their speed. The Cheyennes immediately broke and fled in great confusion, every man for himself. Then followed the chase, the killing and th& scalping. The Indians took their old trail for the Republican Valley, and put their horses ti their utmost speed to escape the deadly fire c-l the Pawnees. Night finally ended the chase, an.l when the spoils were gathered, it was found thai fifteen Cheyenne warriors had been made to b: U the dust, and their scalps had been taken as tro phies of victory. Two prisoners were also taken one a boy of about sixteen years and the other *, squaw. The boy was a nephew of Turkey Le^ the chief. Thirty-five horses and mules weio also taken, while not a man of the scouts was hurt. After the chase had ceased, a rain-stor/n set in, and tired with their day's work, with thf, trophies of their victory, they returned to camjj. It was about midnight when they arrived. Ma jor North and a company of infantry, undei command of Capt. John A. Miller, had re mained in camp guarding government and com pany property, and knowing that a battle had been fought, were intensely anxious to learn the result. When the Pawnees came near, it waa with shouts and whoops and songs of victory They exhibited their scalps and paraded their prisoners with great joy, and spent the wholt. night in scalp-dances and wild revelry. Thiw victory put an end to attacks on railroad trains by the Cheyennes. The boy and squaw woro kept in the camp of the Pawnees until late in the season, when a big council was held with th* 37 Brule Sioux, Spotted Tail's band, at North Matte, to makf new treaty. Hearing of this council, Turkey Leg, chief of the Cheyennes, sent in a runne. ^d offered to deliver up six white captives held in his band for the return of the boy and the squaw. After the necessary preliminaries had been effected, the runner was told to bring the white captives, that the ex- change might be made. The boy held by the scouts was understood to be of royal lineage, and was expected to succeed Turkey Leg in the chief- taincy of the tribe. After the exchange had taken place, the old chief would scarcely allow the boy to leave his sight such was his attach- ment to him, and manifested his delight in every possible way over his recovery. The white cap- tives were two sisters by the name of Thompson, who lived south of the Platte River, nearly oppo- site Grand Island, and their twin brothers ; a Norwegian girl taken on the Little Blue River, and a white child born tr one of these women while in captivity. They were restored to their friends as soon as possible. The Next Attack. The Indians were not willing to have the iron rails that should bind the shores of the continent together laid in peace, and made strenuous and persistent efforts to prevent it. On the 16th of April, 1868, a "cut off " band of Sioux, under a scalawag chief, named Two Strikes, attacked and killed five section-men near Elm Creek Station, taking their scalps, and ran off a few head of stock. They were never pursued. On the same day, and evi- dently according to a pre-arranged plan, a part of the same band attacked the post at Sidney. They came up on the bluffs north of the town and fired into it. But no one was injured from their shooting at that time. Two conductors, however, named Tom Cahoon and William Edmunson, had gone down the Lodge Pole Creek, a little way to fish. They were unobserved by the Indians when the firing took place. Hearing the re- ports they climbed up the bank to see what was going on, and being seen by the Indians, they at once made an effort to cut them off, though they were only a mile or so from the post. The savages charged down upon them, and shot Cahoon, who fell forward on Ihe ground. The Indians immediately scalped him and, left him for dead. Mr. Edmunson ran towards the post as fast as he could, ;i,nd drawing a small Derringer pistol, fired at his pursuers. Thinking he had a revolver and would be likely to shoot again if they came too close, they did not venture up as they had done, but allowed him to escape. He got away with some eight or nine arrow and bullet wounds together and carrying four arrows sticking in his body. He was taken to the hospital, and rapidly recovered from his wounds. After the Indians had gone, the citizens went after the body of Mr. Cabix>n, H'hom they supposed dead, but to their surprise he was still alive. They brought him into the post, where he recovered, and is now running on the road. Attack, at Ogalalla. In September of the same year, the same band of Sioux attempted to destroy a train between Alkali and Ogalalla. They fixed the rails the same as at Plum Creek. As the train came up the rails penetrated the cylinders on each side of the engine, as it was a straight track there ; the engine going over into the ditch, with the cars piling up on top of it. The engineer and one of the brakemen who was on the engine at the time, were thrown through the window of the cab, and were but little hurt. The fireman was fastened by the tender against the end of the boiler, and after the train had stopped, there being no draft, the flames of the fire came out of the door to the fire-box upon him, and the poor fellow was literally roasted alive. He was released after six hours in this terrible position, during which he begged the attendants to kill him, but lived only a few moments after his release. All the trains at this time carried arms, and the conductor, with two or three passengers, among whom was Father Ryan, a Catholic priest of Columbus, Nebraska, seized the arms and defended the train the Indians meanwhile skulking among the bluffs near the track, and occasionally firing a shot. Word was sent to North Platte, and an engine and men came up, who cleared the wreck. Mean- while word was sent to Major North, then at Willow Island, to take one company of his scouts and follow the Indians. He came to Alkali and reported to Colonel Mizner, who was marching from North Platte with two companies of cavalry, all of whom started in pursuit. They went over to the North Platte River, crossed that stream and entered the sand-hills, where the scouts over- took and killed two of the Indians ; the whole party going about thirty-five miles to a little lake, where the main body of Indians had just left and camped, finding the smouldering em- bers of the Indian fires still alive. That night some of the white soldiers let their camp fires get away into the prairie, and an immense prairie fire was the result. This, of course, alarmed the Indians, and further pursuit was abandoned, much to the disgust of the scouts. Colonel Mizner also claimed that his rations were run- ning short, but from all the facts we can learn, he lacked the disposition to pursue and capture those Indians. At least, this is a charitable con- struction to put upon his acts. In October of the same year (1868), the same band of Indians attacked the section-men near Potter Station, drove them in and run off about twenty head of horses and mules. Major North and his scouts were immediately sent in pursuit. Leaving camp at Willow Island, the command was soon on the ground. It was evidently a small raiding party, and Major North sent & 38 Lieutenant and fifteen of his men after them. They struck their trail, followed them to the North Platte River, which they crossed, followed and overhauled them in the sand-hills, killing two, recapturing a part of the stolen horses, and re- turned without loss. The Indians have made some efforts to ditch a few trains since that year, but have effected no serious damage. Their efforts of late have mostly been confined to stock stealing, and they never seem so happy as when they have succeeded in running off a large num- ber of horses and mules. When the road was first built it was their habit to cross it, going south and north, several times in each year. They roamed with the buffaloes over the plains of Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming and Kansas. The effort of the government of late has been to confine them on their reservations, and the rapid disappearance of the buffaloes from the regions named have given them no excuse for hunting in the country now crossed by railroads and filling up with settlers. Coyote is the next station, simply a side track with a section-house near by. But little timber is visible at this place, though the bottom lands begin to widen, giving an extended view. This is not a timber country, and wherever it is found, the traveler will please bear in mind that it is the exception and not the rule. The islands in the river doubtless had some timber, but the most of it has long since disappeared. Occasion- ally you may see a few scattering trees which have been left by the prairie fires, and which stand in inaccessible places. This side track is 239.1 miles from Omaha, and 2,440 feet above the sea. The next station is Cozatl so named after a gentleman from Cincinnati, Ohio, who purchased about 40,000 acres of land here from the railroad company ; laid out the town ; built quite a number of houses ; induced people to settle here ; has resold a good deal of his land, but still has about 15,000 acres in the immediate vicinity. Along the rail- road track, west of Plum Creek, the traveler will notice that the buffalo grass has been rooted out by what is called prairie or blue-joint grass. This last is an annual grass and is killed by frost, after which it resembles dark colored brick a reddish brown appearanc". It has but little nutri- ment after the frost coin j.s, but if cut and cured in July or August, makes an excellent quality of hay. The buffalo grass is just over the divide a little way, but is giving way to that just named. Some men of capital near Cozad, are interest- ing themselves in sheep raising, and frequently from this place west you will see large herds of cattle. Cozad is 245.1 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,480 feet. It has two or three stores, school-house, hotel, several large dwellings, and with favorable seasons for growing crops in the future, will become quite a town. The Platte Valley at this point is about twenty miles wide. Willow Island is the next station; so named from the large number of willow bushes on the island in the river near by. It is 250.1 miles from the Missouri, and has an elevation of 2,511 feet. The prairie or blue-joint grass still con- tinues along the. side of the track, and the bluffs on the south side of the river seem more abrupt. They are full of ravines or " draws," and these some- times have timber in them. At this station a largo quantity of cedar piles and telegraph poles are delivered. They are hauled some forty miles from the canons in the South Loup Valley. There is a store at this station and a corral neax by where stock is kept ; with a few old log and mud buildings, rapidly going to decay in the vicinity. The glory of this place, if it ever had any, has long since departed, but it may, never- theless, yet become the pride of stock-men, who shall count their lowing herds by the thousand Grand Dnlae Alexis 9 First Huffalo Hani. During the visit of the Grand Duke Alexis ol! Russia, to the United States, the imperial party were escorted to the plains, and enjoyed the excitti- ment of a buffalo hunt, over the western prairieji. Connected with the chase were some incidents of rare curiosity and pleasure. As the only repre- sentative of the great Russian nation, he has seen the novelty of military life on the frontier ; shak- en hands with partially tamed Indian warriors, and smoked the pipe of peace in ancient style. Among the company were Buffalo Bill, a nobl> son of the wild West, and Generals Sheridan and Custer. The red men appeared in a grand pow-wow and war-dance, and indulged in arrow practice for his particular benefit. The party started from camp Alexis, Willow Creek, Nebraska, in January, 1872. For the hunt the Duke's dress consisted of jacket and trowsers of heavy gray cloth, trimmed with green, the buttons bearing the Imperial Russian coat-of- arms ; he wore his boots outside his trowsers, 1 iis cap was an Australian turban, with cloth top; he carried a Russian hunting knife, and sin American revolver recently presented to him, and bearing the coat-of-arms of the United States and of Russia on the handle. General Custer appeared in his well-known frontier buckskin hunting costume, and if, in- stead of the comical sealskin cap he wore, he had only had feathers fastened in his flowing hair, he would have passed at a distance for a great In- dian chief. Buffalo Bill, the famous scout, was dressed in a buckskin suit trimmed with fur, and Vore a black slouch hat, his long hair hanging in ring- lets down his shoulders. Game was sighted in a long canon with broken sides and high hills on either side, forming a niHLTiiificent arena. The Grand Duke and Custer started off, and as they went Custer pulled out his revolver, and said, " Are you ready, Duke ? " Alexis drew off his glove, grasped his pistol, and with a wave of his hand replied, " All ready now, General." Buf- falo Bill had been selected to show the Grand Duke how the buffaloes would stand at bay when suddenly attacked. A cow was singled out to show him how fleet of foot the females are, and the speed and skill essential to overtake and kill them. As soon as she espied them she started off at full speed, the Duke and Custer after her. Finding herself hard pressed, she ran up a steep declivity on the right side of the canon, and gain- ing a footing on the slope, kept along the narrow ledge, while the Duke and Custer followed in a line along the bottom of the canon. The chase was most exciting, and the Grand Duke, exhib- iting an enthusiasm and daring which the most I elevation of 2,637 feet, and 268.4 miles from the eastern terminus of the road. The island in the river, from which the station is named, is quite large, and formerly had considerable timber for this country. An occasional tree may yet be seen. Maxivell is 277.5 miles from Omaha, and 2,695 feet above the sea. Fort McPherson is located south of the Platte River, on a military reservation, and nearly opposite the station. There is a wagon bridge across the river connecting the two places. The fort is about seven miles from the station, and is located near some springs formerly called "Cotton-wood Springs." It bears the name of the gallant general who fell before Atlanta, in 1864, in the war for the preservation of the Union. But few soldiers are now kept at this GRAND DCKE ALEXIS KILLING HIS FIRST BUFFALO. experienced western hunter could not have sur- passed, pressed his game until she turned upon him. Describing a semi-circle with his horse, he dashed to the other side of her, and taking deliberate aim, discharged the contents of his revolver into her fore shoulder, as quick as a flash of lightning. The buffalo fell dead upon the instant. Thus, as he telegraphed to his fa- ther, the Czar of Russia, he killed the first wild horned monster that had met his eye in America. The sport continued for two days, and ended with a series of Indian festivities. Warren is a side track 260.4 miles from Omaha, and 2,570 feet above the sea. A section- house stands near by. The valley here narrows, and the bluffs on both sides come near the river. Brady Island is the next station, with an fort, though at the time the war was in progress, and afterwards during the building of the road, and in the years of Indian conflict that raged on the frontier, it was a post of considerable import- ance. Immense quantities of hay are annually cut near this place, with which government and private contracts are filled. A part of the Sev- enth Iowa Cavalry, under Major O'Brien, camped on the site of the fort in 1866, and afterwards troops from the regular army were stationed here. Gannett named after J. W. Gannett, Esq., of Omaha and present auditor of the Union Pacific Railroad is a side track with adjacent section- house ; is 285.2 miles from Omaha, and 2,752 feet above the sea. All the stations for from fifty to a hundred miles east of this, are located in an 40 excellent grazing country, and cattle and sheep are coming in to occupy it. Five miles from Gannett, the railroad crosses the North Platte River on a pile bridge. There is a side track and two section-houses just east of th river, the side track for hay cars, and one of the section-houses near the bridge for the watchman, who walks its entire length after the passage of every train. The bridge is planked by the railroad company, and rented by Lincoln County, so that wagons, teams and stock have free passage. After leaving Cozad, the number of settlers' cabins and houses diminishes till you come to the North Platte Valley. South of the river between Fort McPherson and North Platte, there are quite a number of homesteaders, who have farmed it for a few years, with indif- ferent success, having to contend with drought and grasshoppers. The soil has been proven to be prolific, but some plan of irrigation will have to be adopted, before agriculture can be made a paying investment. In choice locations, how- ever, such as pieces of low bottom land near the river, crops of potatoes and " garden truck " have been successfully raised for several years. We have now entered upon the great stock- growing region of the continent, where cattle and Horses can be grown and kept the year round without hay, and where the buffalo grass, except- ing along the streams, affords the rich nutriment that produces fat, and renders cattle ready for market without grain. The North Platte River will be crossed again at Fort Steele. It has its source in northern Colorado, west of the Medicine Bow Mountains. The Laramie River, which you cross just beyond Laramie City, and the Sweetwater, which rises in the Wind River Mountains north of Point of Rocks, and runs through the great South Pass, are two of its principal tributaries. It drains an immense region of country, and is fed by innu- merable streams and springs from the Black Hills of Wyoming, the Wind River Mountains, the Medicine Bow Mountains, the Sweetwater Moun- tains, the Big Horn Mountains, Rattlesnake Hills and other elevations. The traveler must not be confused by the term " Black Hills." The Black Hills of Wyoming are those which you cross be- tween Cheyenne and Laramie City, the summit of which you reach at Sherman. These are not the Black Hills of which so much has been said of late, in connection with the discovery of- gold and the Sioux Indians. They are called the Black Hills of Dakota, and the nearest point to them on the railroad is Sidney. From the im- mense amount of water which runs into the North Platte River, it is a mystery what becomes of it all, as the river is shallow and sluggish where it is crossed near its mouth. Its treach- erous bottom of ever varying and shifting quicksands, like that of the South Platte, does not make it a good fording stream for wagons, though the water, except in certain seasons of of the yeai% is the smallest obstacle. Up to the spring of 1875, this river was the southern bound- ary of what the Sioux Indians claimed as their reservation, and it was only by the payment of a special appropriation of $:2o,000, that they re- linquished the right to hunt as far south as this river. The principal military posts on the stream, are Forts Fetterman, usually occupied by but few troops, and Laramie. The latter is at present the principal military depot for both troops and supplies off the line of the railroad, in this part of the West. It is 90 miles from Cheyenne, its nearest railroad station, and the point from whence nearly all the frontier expe- ditions into northern Wyoming, western Dakota, and the Big Horn and Powder River countries, start. The Laramie River and the North Platte form a junction near the fort. The South Platte, which the railroad still fol- lows for about eighty-five miles, is similar to the North Platte, so far as external observations go. It rises in the mountains south and west of Denver, receives a large number of tributaries ; the chief of which is the Cache La Poudre, which forms a junction with it at Greeley, and then pursues a due east course to the Missouri River. The junction with the North Platte is formed a few miles below the bridge just spoken of. On neither of these streams, nor on any of their tributaries can agricultural pursuits be carried on without irrigation, and not always with success with irrigation. The hand of the Almighty has placed its ineffaceable mark upon all this vast region of country that it is His pasture ground and adapted, so far as is known, to no other pur- pose. Millions of buffaloes have ranged over these bleak and desolate-looking plains for ages past, and from the short grass which grows in abundance thereon, have derived a rich suste- nance. They have gone or are fast going, and the necessities of the civilization which follows, calls for beef and mutton. These plains must become the great beef-producing region of the continent. They are the Almighty's pasture grounds, and if there are not a thousand cattle upon a hill, there will surely be " cattle upon a thousand hills." The numerous tributaries to these two rivers are from ten to fifteen miles apart, with high roll- ing prairies between affording abundance of water with adjacent pasture, and this pasture is the home of the richest natural grasses. Before you reach the North Platte River, you will see conclusive evidence of the adaptability of these plains to stock-raising, and from this time on to where the river is again crossed, you will see numerous herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. The snows of winter in these elevated regions are dry, and not frequent. Driven by fierce winds, they will fill the hollows and small ravines, while the hills are always !<>ft bare, so that cattle and sheep can always obtain access to 41 the ground, and the buffalo and bunch grasses with which it is covered. While hay must be cut for the sustenance of sheep during the few days storms may last, and for the horses and cattle that may be kept up ; the vast herds, whether of cattle or horses, will go through the most severe winter that has ever been known in this region without hay or shelter, except that afforded by the ravines. The experiment has been repeatedly tried, and the vast herds that aris now kept in this region, attest the success of that experiment. In Lincoln County, of which the town of North Platte is the county-seat, there are probably 75,000 head of cattle alone. Eastern farmers and stock-raisers will see that <,h.3 attempt to provide hay for this vast number >-vould be useless, and if required would render the keeping of so many in a single county un- profitable. The expense of providing hay would m the first place be great, and the expense of confining the cattle and feeding it out would be still greater. And if the buffaloes have lived in this country year after year, during the flight of the centuries without hay, why may not cattle and horses do likewise ? The stock-grazing region to which allusion is here made, comprises in fact ill the country west of the 100th meridian of longitude, to the base of the Rocky Mountains, and the elevated plateaus or great parks lying between the eastern and western ranges of the same mountains; while the extent north and south reaches from the Gulf of Mexico to the northern boundary line of the United States. Four great railroad lines already penetrate this rast stock range, and a decade will hardly pass away before other lines will follow. A ready outlet to the best stock markets in the country is therefore always accessible and always open. But with all the natural advantages of this region, not every one who may be captivated with the idea of a stock ranche and lowing herds, can make it a success. The business requires capital and care just the same attention that is given to any other successful business. Nor can- it be safely entered upon under the impression that a fortune can be made in a day or in a year. It is a business liable to losses, to severe winters, un- favorable seasons and a glutted market. It does not run itself. By reason of a single hard win- ter, one man in the stock business has been known to lose a hundred thousand dollars, and the losses that same winter were proportionally severe upon those who were not as able to suffer them. It is a business which, if closely attended to, promises large returns upon the capital in- vested, and which, at the same time, is liable to heavy losses. It is more sure than mining and more profitable than agricultural or dairy-farm- ing. But we shall have more to say of this hereafter, with specific illustrations as to what an be done in both sheep husbandry and cattle raising. Returning to the two rivers, one of which we crossed near their junction the vast area of bottom lands continue to widen, and for a long distance each has its broad valley. Leav- ing the North Platte here we shall ascend the South Platte to Julesburg. About one mile west of the bridge, we arrive at North Platte the end of another division of the Union Pacific Railroad. It is 291 miles from Omaha, and 2,789 feet above the sea. It is a thriving city, and outside of Omaha has the most extensive machine and repair shops on the line of the road. The roundhouse has twenty stalls, and it, together with the machine and repair shops, are substantially built of brick. In these shops engines and cars are either repaired or entirely built over, a process which cannot hardly be called repairing, but which neverthe- less renders them as good as new. The engine- room for the machine-shops, is a model of neatness; everything in and around it being kept in perfect order. The town has about 2,000 inhabitants, two wide-awake newspapers ; the Republican being a weekly, and the Western Ncbraskian being a semi-weekly, together with several wholesale and retail stores and shops of various kinds. The Railroad House is the largest and leading hotel. About 150 men are given constant employment in the shops. There are also one or two com- panies of troops stationed here, not to protect the railroad from the savages, for that necessity has passed, but for economy in keeping and convenience for frontier duty. The town also has two or three church edifices, a brick court- house and brick school-house, both new, and both presenting a fine appearance. There are also several elegant private residences. It is beauti- fully located, and has excellent drainage. The bluffs or hills are in near view, both north and south, and give quite a picturesque appearance to the country in the immediate vicinity. The Black Hills excitement, in regard to the discovery of gold, has had some effect upon the town, and a railroad off to the north-west is talked. It is the home of some of the leading stock-men of this section of country. Near this city, in 1875, Col. E. D. Webster and Mrs. A. W. Randall, wife of the late ex-postmaster-general Randall, formed a copartnership to engage in the dairying business, and erected a cheese factory. During the year they manufactured about 30 tons of cheese, which brought them a fair return. Col- onel Webster claims that the experiment has demonstrated that the business can be carried on with profit, and he believes it will eventually become the leadin'g feature of this part of the country. He further says that the only draw- back at present is the scarcity and unreliability of help, it being difficult to obtain a sufficient number of " milkers " at a reasonable price to milk a large number of cows. In 1876 the firm proposes to make cheese from the milk of from ' i ' :' i, I ,i,. Iff one to two hundred cows, and the balance of their herd some five hundred will be devoted to stock-raising. This dairy establishment is one of the new enterprises of North Platte, and, if successful in the future, will make it the prominent cheese-market of the West. The town has abundant attractions for invalids needing rest there being antelope and deer in the hills, fish in the streams, and an abundance ,j>f pure air to invigorate the body. It has a bright future and is destined to become one of ,the leading towns on the line of the railroad, formerly it was an eating-station, but as now run, trains pass it in the night. The road was finished to this town in the fall of 1866, from "which time until the following June it was the [.point where all overland freight was shipped. K was a rough town then, but this state of ) affairs did not last long, and the character of r the place rapidly improved with the arrival of permanent set- tlers. There -were a few In- dian scares, but > no serious at- "lack was made 6y the savages *tipon the town. . Two or three 'trains were ditched and wrecked, both east and west, but this was the extent of the damage done l.-y them. Of this, however, we shall have more to say in (mother place. Chimney Rode. Near North Platte is the fur-famed Chimney Rock, two and a half miles from the south bank of the Platte River. It is composed of a friable yellowish marl, which can be cut readily with the knife. It rises in the form of a thin, perpendicular shaft above a coni- cal, mound, whose base slopes gradually out toward the plains. It appears to be the re- newal of the old chain of hills and rocks which bounded the valley, but which, from -their soft- ness of material, have been disintegrated by wind and weather. This possessing harder ma- terial has withstood these effects, although it is steadily yielding. In the days of Fremont's ex- pedition, it was estimated that it was over 200 f(!'3t in height, but other travelers and explorers who had seen it years before, stated that its height had been as great as 500 feet. In those days it was a landmark visible for forty or fifty miles; novf it is hardly 35 feet in height. Around the vaist of the base runs a white band which sets off its height, and relieves the uni- form yellow tint. It has often been struck by lightning. TJie Overland Pony Express. The Pony Express (of which few now remem- ber those days of excitement and interest) was started in ISb'O, and the 3d of April, that year, is the memorable date of the starting of that first trip. In those days, the achievements of the Pony Express were attended with an eager excite- ment hardly less interesting than the building of the Pacific Railroad itself. " Overland to Califor- nia in thirteen days," was repeated everywhere as a remarkable achievement. The first company organized was formed in California in 1858 or 1859, under the name of the Central Overland California and Pike's Peak Express. At that time, with no telegraph or even stage line across the continent, this attempt was considered extra- ordinarily au- dacious. The services plan- ned and exe- cuted by the company were a pony express, with stations sixty miles apart, the en- tire distance from St.Joseph, Mo., to Sacra- mento. The time occupied between ocean and ocean was fourteen days, and from SL Joseph to San Francisco, ten the company re- quired the pony express to make trips in the following time : From St. Joseph to Marysville, 12 hours. From St. Joseph to Fort Kearny, 34 hours. From St. Joseph to Laramie, 80 hours. From St. Joseph to Fort Bridger, 108 hours. From St. Joseph to Salt Lake, 124 hours. From St. Joseph to Camp Floyd, 128 hours. From St. Joseph to Carson City, 118 hours. From St. Joseph to Placerville, 226 hours. From St. Joseph to Sacramento, 232 hours. From St. Joseph to San Francisco, 2 10 hours. An express messenger left once a week from each side with not more than ten pounds of matter. The best of riders were chosen from among trap- pers, scouts and plains men, familiar with all the life of the route, fearless, and capable of great physical power, endurance and bravery. The ponies were very swift and strong, a cross be- tween the American horse and Indian pony, and after each run of sixty miles, waited till the ar- rival of the messenger from the opposite direc- CHIMNEY ROCK, NEAR XORTH PLATTE. And the schedule of days. OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS PURSUED BY HIGHWAYMEN. tion, when each returned. The riders were con- stantly exposed to dangers from Indian attacks and pursued by highwaymen ; and to compen- sate them for this risk they received the large salary of f 1,200 a month each ; and the modest price charged for the conveyance of business letters was $5.00, gold, per quarter ounce. At the time of the departure of the first messenger from St. Joseph, a special train was run over the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad to bring the through messenger from New York, and a " Pony Express Extra " was issued of two pages, by the St. Joseph Daily Gazette, containing telegraphic news from all parts of the world, with a heavily leaded account of the new enterprise, and sending greetings to the press of Califor- nia. The route from St. Joseph, after reaching the Platte Val- ley, followed just north of the present track of the Pacific Rail- Toad to Lara- mie, then up the Sweet Water to Salt Lake, and down the Hum- boldt to Sacramento. Night and day the messen- gers spurred their ponies with the greatest speed each could endure. Often on arriving at an express station the messenger, without waiting to dismount, tossed his bag to another already waiting, and each were off at once, back again, and thus for eight days the little express" bag traveled, arriving at the rail terminus, rarely a minute behind the prescribed time, a total dis- tance of 2,000 miles. For two years this system was kept up, until the telegraph line was finished in 1862, when the company dissolved with a loss of $200,000. As an instance of rapid speed, once, very important dis- patches e 1 e c - tion news were carried from St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., 625 miles, in sixty- nine hours, the last ten miles being made in thirty- one minutes. Onthisandnext page, we give two illustrations characteristic of these times. One engraving is taken from a painting of G. OLD PONY EXPRESS STATION AT CHEESE CREEK, NEBRASKA. Q. M. Ottillger, of Salt Lake City, which represents the express rider dashing along and cheering the telegraph men who were erecting the poles. This is an actual scene, as, in the summer of 1862, while the telegraph was under construction, the flitting by of the Pony Express was an almost daily occur- rence. An illustration is also given of one of these express stations at Cheese Creek, Neb., which was soon afterwards abandoned as a thing of the past. The government mails were carried by special contract of the Overland Mail Com- pany with the United States government, which was started in 1858, who contracted with them to run a monthly mail from San Francisco to the Missouri River for a consideration of $650,000 annual compensation. Of this company, John Butterfield who drove the first coach, was presi- dent. The route chosen was the Ox Bow, via. Santa Fe, but in 1860 the Indians became so the driver may be heard shouting loudly, or with terrific whoop a mile or so before his station is reached the keepers have heard it and as his stage rattles up, the new relay of horses is ready, and in two or three minutes the stage is on its way again. After a few days' journey, th*> travelers become used to the swinging motion of the stage, and sleep as naturally as if made for such a life. A. Word with Invalids. Thousands of invalids, especially consumptives, visit the mountains and California coast, every year, in search of health, and to try the effect of a change of climate in restoring them to activity and vigor. There can be no question but that many have been benefited by the change, and it is a fact equally patent that many have left good homes, POXY EXPRESS SALUTING THE TELEGRAPH. troublesome that the route was changed to that of the Pony Express, and soon afterwards a daily mail was established at an expense of $1,000,000 annually. The incidents of overland stage life have been repeated over and over again in books of Western adventure. Here and there were lonely post-offices away out on the distant prairies or plains. No passengers to set down or take up, the driver throws out his mail-bag, catches the one thrown to him, and whirls on without stop- Sing, or scarcely checking the speed of his team, lorning, noon or night comes the inevitable "refreshment station," such as it is, where the weary passengers, well shaken up, were glad to regale themselves on pork and beans, corn bread, and " slumgullion " the Far Western name for tea. Toward the middle of the night, perhaps, kind friends, and plenty of care to die alone and among strangers. With this last class the main trouble is, they wait too long in the East before starting. The disease, more or less rapid in its strides, gets too firm a hold upon the sys- tem becomes too deeply rooted to be easily thrown off ; then they start for health and rest that cannot be found, and most always go too far in search of it. There are a few words of ad- vice to these people, which are the result of years of observation and experience on the plains and among the mountains. First, the discovery of a tendency to Iw^ and throat diseases should be a sufficient incentive to prompt one to an immediate change of cli- mate. Do not wait until a change becomes hope- less because of the advanced stages of the diseas' . 46 Second, do not at jirst go too far. This is another mistake frequently committed by those who finally get started. Third, do not go too fast. Remember the railroad from Omaha, in less than two days, will take you to an altitude of more than 8,000 feet, and this is a severe test on a pair of healthy lungs, to say nothing of its effect upon weak ones. First go as far as Grand Island, and stop. This place is 1,850 feet above the sea, and you are in the midst of a fine prairie country, with a generally clear atmosphere and balmy breezes. Here are good hotel accommodations, in a thickly settled region, where you can obtain plenty of fresh milk, cream and eggs, and such either along the stream or on the adjoining high- lands, still camping out, until you reach North Platte. Then take another rest, look around the country, mount your horse and ride out to the cattle ranches and live with the herders for a time. Uo not be in a hurry to get away, and after you have beeji here a month or six weeks, if you still improve, or even hold your own with the character of the life herein prescribed, it will be safe for you to go still farther, and in the same manner. But if you are not benefited by the trip thus far, it will be better for you to return to your homes and friends, where loving hands can smooth your pillow and administer comfort dur- ing your declining days. % BUFFALO HUSTISU. other articles of diet as are necessary and condu- cive to your welfare. Ride or walk out from town; go arourid among the farmers, and if, after a month or so, you improve and wish to go farther, buy a team and wagon, and from this place go along leisurely overland, camping out if the weather is favorable. There are opportuni- ties for hunting and fishing, along the road, which will afford amusement and recreation. When you get to Kearny Junction, stop a few weeks. Notice the effect of your new mode of life and the climate upon your health, and if you simply hold your own, it is safe for you to take another step up the Platte Valley in your westward journey. Leisurely pursue your way, If the journey has benefited you, pursue it overland and camping out, to Sidney or Chey- enne, up the Lodge Pole Valley and along side of the railroad, or at Julesburg go up the South Platte Valley to Greeley. You are now, if at Cheyenne, over 6,000 feet above the sea, and be- tween 5,000 and 6,000 feet at either Greeley or Denver, in the midst of a rarified and dry atmos- phere. If your health is regained, do not think of returning, for this is almost sure to bring on a relapse, which is usually sudden, and from which there is no escape; your safety depends upon your remaining in these high altitudes, and on the high and dry plains of the West. A trip down in New Mexico, and across the plains to Arizona, will also prove beneficial. In the old overland times, thousands of consumptives re- gained their health in driving teams, and by slowly crossing the plains, who would have died if the same journey had been taken on the cars. By the latter mode, the change from a damp and heavy atmosphere in the East, to the ratified and dry air of the plains and mountains, is too sud- den ; and after all, if the disease has become thoroughly seated, it is doubtful if any change will be effectual. It is an experiment which should only be tried with all possible safeguards thrown around it. Buffalo Grass. After you have passed the stations of North Platte and Sidney, you will ob- serve the entire country carpeted with a short, dried up grass growing in little bunches. This is the famous buffalo grass which covers thousands of miles of the plains northward and southward and westward. Though it gives to the country a dried look, as if the very appearance of desola- tion and sterility, yet it is the richest grass ever known in the world. The entire State of Ne- braska is famous for its remarkable variety of grasses. The Platte Valley is the home of no less than 149 varieties, all native to the soil, and were it not for the extraordinary beauty and luxuriance of the green carpet, the grasses make, the Valley of the Platte would be almost wholly devoid of interest. The buffalo grass is rarely over two to three inches in height, and its seed is produced on flowers almost covered by leaves close to the ground. It grows in little tufts, broad and dense, and is exceedingly rich and sweet, having no less than 3 6-10 per cent, of saccharine matter. When making its first growth in the spring, it is green, then dries on its stem and remains the rest of the year like cured hay on the open ground, retaining all its sweetness. Without a single exception, horses, mules and stock of all descriptions, will forsake all other kinds of grass until all the buffalo grass within reach has been consumed. While the buffaloes roamed over this country it was their natural food, but with their disappearance and the corning of the white man, it is disappearing to give place to others. Leaving North Platte, the next station is Nichols, 299.4 miles from Omaha, and 2,882 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track with section-house near, in the midst of the level bottom lands between the two rivers, both of which are in sight. Before reaching North Platte it will be observed that the bottom narrows, and that the bluffs or sand-hills in some instances approach the river's bank. But after leaving the town, for nearly twenty miles west, the level prairie between the rivers spreads out in view, with bluffs on either side beyond. Between North Platte and this station there are a few set- tlers, but the territory is mostly occupied as the winter range of Keith & Barton's herd of cattle, as they are easily confined between the rivers with little help. O>Fallon's is the next station. It is 307.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,97b' feet. It is a telegraph station. O'Fallon's Bluffs are plainly visible south of the South Platte River, which they closely approach ; at this point we lose sight of the Valley of the North Platte a ridge of low hills jutting down from the west, while the railroad follows the south river. The railroad reached this place late in the fall of 1866, but North Platte was the terminal station until Julesburg was reached in 1867. If there was any timber on the streams in this vicinity, it has long since disappeared. On an island in the South Platte the Indians used to camp, and from their hiding places in the sand- hills and bluffs, frequently attacked emigrants and trains, but as before remarked, with the buf- faloes, the Indians disappear. Dexter is simply a side track where trains occasionally meet and pass. It is 315.2 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 3,000 feet. The bluffs here come very near the river, and they are utilized in the building of a corral the rocky ledge answering all the purposes of a fence. The monotony of the scenery up to this point now passes away, and the traveler will always find something in the ever-varying views of rocks, bluffs, streams and plains that will interest him in the journey. Alkali. A telegraph station, 322.4 miles from the Missouri River, and 3,038 feet above the sea. The alkali spots which have been witnessed in the soil since we left Omaha, are now more fre- quent, and the station naturally takes its name from these characteristics. This station has a small depot, side track and section-house ; is in the midst of a fine grazing country, and opposite an old stage station south of the river. Koscoe. Simply a side track, 332.0 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 3,105 feet. Just before reaching this place, and in this vicin- ity, the railroad passes through more sandy bluffs that approach the river. Otjalalla is the next station, 341.6 miles from Omaha. Elevation 3,190 feet. It is the county-seat of Keith County, Nebraska, and is destined to be the Texas town on the line of the Union Pacific. The regular trail for driving cattle from Texas may be said to terminate here. It has a depot, water tank, side tracks, cattle chutes, store, one or two boarding-houses, saloon, etc. It is the head-quarters and outfitting place of a large number of ranchmen, who have herds of cattle in this vicinity. It is some twelve miles from the North Platte River, where a num- ber of herds find ample range. In 1880, it is claimed that nearly 50,000 head of Texas cattle were driven to this point, and afterwards dis- tributed to various parties to whom they were sold. A large number of them were taken to the 48 Indian agencies at Red Cloud and Spotted Tail. There will be numerous buildings erected soon to accommodate the growing necessities of the town. Leaving Ogalalla we next come to Bride, so called from the Brule Sioux, a band of which Spotted Tail is the chief. Red Cloud is chief of the Ogalalla Sioux. This is probably the most powerful tribe of Indians now existing in the country, and when all united they are said to be able to raise at least 10,000 war- riors. Those of them who have been taken east to Washington and other eastern cities, seem to have lost their belligerent feelings toward the whites, and will not probably go to war with them unless misled by tricksters or influenced by some other powerful motive. The young " bucks" who have remained on their reservations, how- ever, think they can whip the whole country in a very short time if they should once get at it. . This station was a favorite crossing place with this band of Sioux during the years when they used to hunt on the rivers south, or go on their scalping and horse-stealing expeditions. Brule is 351.2 miles from Omaha, and has an eleva- tion of 3,266 feet. North of this place, on the North Platte, is Ash Hollow, a celebrated camping ground for Indians and the scene of a great victory over them by General Harney, in 1859. The whole tribe of Sioux probably have a greater admiration for General Harney, to-day, than for any other living American. Physical force is the only power which they can be made to respect and fear. Next comes Big Spi'iny, which is 360.9 miles fr.m the eastern end of the road, with an elevation of 3,325 feet. It is so named from large springs which break to the surface of the ground at the foot of the bluffs, on the right-hand side of the road going west, and in plain sight of the cars. The water tank, at this station, is supplied from these springs. The water is excellent, and the station is quite a camping place for those who continue to journey overland. This is a tele- graph station. Barton, called after Hon. Guy C. Barton of North Platte. It is 368.7 miles from Omaha, and 3,421 feet above the sea simply a side track where trains meet and pass. Beyond this sta- tion, a short distance, the old town of Julesburg can be seen across the river. Late in 1875, a stray herd of about six hundred buffaloes quietly passed over the old town site to and from the river, where they went for water. It will proba- bly be their last visitation to this part of the country. , Denver Junction 371 miles from Omaha, 3,541 feet above the sea. The "Denver Short Line," a branch of the Union Pacific Railroad, here turns off to the southwest, soon enters South Platte Valley, and, by easy grades and great saving in distance over existing routes, Jeads direct to Denver, while the Overland Route pursues its course directly west. This brand is graded and bridged nearly the entire distanci and ironed part of the way. It will doubtless be in operation through to Denver in August 1881. This branch was first commenced som< ten years ago, but, by an agreement made ii 1875, tho Union Pacific, or men in the com pany, relinquished the proposed and completec roads in Colorado to the Kansas Pacific, an< the latter road relinquished its through-busi ness to the Pacific Coast, and its efforts to com pel the Union Pacific to pro rate with it frou Cheyenne West. This arrangement effected th' entire suspension of all efforts to complete thi road until the Union Pacific Company bough up the Kansas Pacific in 1879, when operation. were soon again commenced on abandonee routes. This line will be some seventy milo: shorter than the present route from Omaha t< Denver via Cheyenne, eighty -five miles shorte: from the Missouri River to Denver than the olt Kansas Pacific route from Kansas City, and 20! miles shorter than the Atchison, Topeka anc Santa Fe from the same point. The Union Pacific Company is arrang ing to run a fast Denver Express througl from Omaha to Denver "via this line, for th< accommodation of passengers arriving at Omaht from the East at eight, and will enable patrom to reach the "Queen City of the Plains" frou Chicago or St. Louis in twelve hours' quicker time than ever before. Weir, formerly Julesburg 377.4 miles from Omaha, and 3,500 feet above the sea isai interesting historical point, and for many year- 1 has been one of the most important stations ii; Western Nebraska. It was named after Jul( i Burg a frontier character, who was killed by one Jack Slade, another rough, in the old over- land stage times. The old town was across the river, some four miles below the preseiil station, and was a pretty rough place. Th( station is opposite old Fort Sedgwick, noAV abandoned, and was the proposed junction 01 the branch railroad, above described, lip the South Platte River. It has been quite a place for shipping stock, has one or two stores, som adobe houses and stables, with cattle-yards and chutes. At this point the Union Pacific passes through the northeastern corner of Colorado and here it leaves the South Platte River an ascends Lodge Pole Creek to within a miles of Cheyenne. Incidents in the History o The Overland Stage Company had quite an im portant station at Julesburg, south side of th river, and about a mile east of the location o Fort Sedgwick. It was in 1865, before any rai] had been laid on the Union Pacific. The stag company had accumulated a large quantity c supplies at this station, and the Indians knowin 49 this, and ever hostile to the travel of the whites through this region, had their cupidity aroused. Troops were scattered all along the route, and frequently had to escort the stages from one sta- tion to another. At Julesburg, the road crossed the South Platte, followed the Lodge Pole up to Sidney, and then crossed over to the North Platte, which it ascended to Fort Laramie and beyond. Capt. N". J. O'Brien was in command at the fort, with one company of the Seventh Iowa Cavalry, and two pieces of artillery. On the 7th of January, 1875, the Sioux and Chey- ennes, one thousand strong, discovering the small force to defend it, attacked the fort with great bravery. They had previously run the stage into the station, killing one man and one horse. When their presence was discovered, but leaving their dead comrades to fall into the hands of the blood-thirsty foe. The Indians per- ceiving their disposition to fall back, redoubled their efforts, and endeavored to cut them off from the fort. They attacked with greater fury and boldness than ever, and came very near effecting their purpose. The men, however, fell back in good order, and were successful in gaining the fort. The Indians now surrounded this, but the artillery was brought out and served with good effect, so that they were kept at bay, and event- ually night put an end to the conflict. In the night the Indians withdrew, and when the morn- ing broke, not one was in sight. But now comes the most horrible part of this incident. The men went out to find, if possible, the bodies of their dead comrades. They found them, but INDIAN ATTACK ON AN OVERLAND STAGE. Captain O'Brien made the best disposition possi- ble with his small force. He left a sergeant with some twelve men in the fort, to handle the artil- lery, and mounting the rest, thirty-seven men and one officer, besides himself, went out to meet the savages. The charge was sounded, and in they went. About a mile from the fort there is a projecting hill in the bluffs, back of and around which the main body of the Indians were con- cealed. As the men neared the top of this hill, they saw the large force opposed to them, but never flinched. The Indians charged upon them with great fury, and for quite a time the unequal contest was continued. But his ranks having become depleted by the loss of fourteen of the thirty-seven enlisted men, the captain ordered them to fall back, which they did in good order, nearly all were beyond recognition ; stripped of every vestige of clothing, mutilated beyond ac- count, cold and stark they lay, in the places they had fallen ; their fingers, toes and ears cut off, their mouths filled with powder and ignited, and every conceivable indignity committed upon their persons. Sorrowfully they gathered up these re- mains, and conveyed them to the fort, where they were decently buried ; but the recollections of that awful night, did not fade from the mem- ories of the survivors of that company. In sub- sequent battles with the savages, their courage was quickened and their arms nerved to deeds of daring, which cost many a warrior his life, and gave him a sudden exit to his happy hunting grounds. The loss of the savages in this battle, could not, at the time, be accurately ascertained, but from the best information since obtained, admitted by the Indians themselves, they had sixty-three warriors killed in this engagement. None were found on the field, as they always carry their dead away with them. On the second day of February, less than a mouth from the above attack, they appeared in tii3 vicinity of the fort again, and attacked and burned the station house of the stage company, other out-buildings and stores, and one or two houses adjoining. Five miles below the station was a ravine called the Devil's Dive, through which the stages passed. Captain O'Brien and four or five men were escorting the coach with three or four passengers, one of whom was a lady. Ai hs ascended the bank of the ravine going to- ward the fort, he saw a smoke, and riding up to the top of a hill, he saw Indians. Returning to the coach, hi had every man, passengers and all, care- fully examine his arms, and caused the coach to proceed slowly along. Soon the road neai-ed the bank of the river, and here he met some team- sters with wagons, who, beyond a pistol or two, were unarmed, and who had left the station for soms object, less than* a half hour before. They now breams aware of the situation, and were greatly alarmed. These men the captain ordered to return and keep near the stage, which they did, all moving slowly toward the station and fort. Meanwhile the heads of Indians were popping up quite frequently, over the bluffs in the dis- tance. Arriving near one of these, the captain boldly rode to the top, and taking his blanket swung it three timas over his head. The Indians saw this, and supposed he had a large force in the rear, which Ii3 was signaling to come up, and they bsgan to fly. The river was frozen, and sand had been scattered over two roadways on the ica. They took everything they could from the burning station and houses, and beat a re- treat across the river. At the first sign of their leaving, the stage-driver and teamsters put their animals to their utmost speed, and ran into the fort, th3 captain arriving there in time to give tin Indians a few parting shots from his artillery as ths last of them ran across the river. The shots ricocheted along the ice, and caused the Indians to drop some of their plunder, though doing no further damage, as we could learn. These are only two of the many incidents in our frontier history, that will soon be beyond the reach and knowledge of either the present or future generations. The Great Indian Battle at Summit Springs. On the divide south of the South Platte River, and about midway between old Fort Morgan and old Fort Sedgwick, opposite to which Jules- burg now stands, there are some fine springs the only good water in quite a region of territory. They are now called Summit Springs; and are near the summit of a divide from which the water, when there is any, runs north and south. In the winter of 18t>9, Major Frank North, be- fore alluded to, received orders to recruit his scouts for the summer campaign. He organized one company in February, and two the following April, the total number in the three companies being one hundred and fifty men, exclusive of their white officers. In April of that year, Gen- eral Carr, taking two of these companies and eight of the Fifth Cavalry, then stationed at Fort McPherson, was ordered to scout the coun- try in the Republican, Solomon and Saline Val- leys and their tributaries, and strike any ma- rauding bands of Indians he might find. At that time, the Indians were raiding the advanced settlements in the lower Republican and Solomon Valleys, burning houses, killing and scalping men, women and children, and stealing all thu horses they could find. The third company of the scouts had not then been organized. As soon as this was done, Major North was ordered to take them across the country from Foit Kearny, and join General Carr's command, at the mouth of Prairie Dog Creek, in the Repub- lican Valley. This he did, effecting a junction about the 5th of May. After scouting the coun- try between the Republican and Solomon for about a month, the command returned to the Republican, where it met a supply train, which had been sent out from Fort McPherson, and then proceeded up the valley. On arriving at the mouth of Medicine Creek, they struck the trail of a large village. This was on the first day of July, and they continued to follow it up the river for about one hundred and twenty-five miles. The trail then left the valley, and bore off to the North, until it struck Frenchman Creek, then up that creek to its source, and then over a divide to Summit Springs, about thirty- five miles from the headwaters of the Frenchman. The Indians of this village kept pickets out as a sort of a rear-guard, but did not think of an at- tack from another quarter. The Pawnee scouts were constantly in the advance, and kept the command well informed of the condition and dis- position of the Indians. They had discovered the rear-guard of the Indians, without being themselves seen, reporting their situation, and telling just how the attack should be conducted, in order to be successful. A wide detour would have to be made, and the Indian village, en- camped in a ravine near the springs, would have to be approached and attacked from the west. Every precaution was taken to conceal the move- ments of the troops. The attack was made on the 1 1th day of July. The heavy wagon train was left in the rear, and the best horses with their riders, were selected for the march, which was supposed to be, with the detour mentioned, at least fifty miles. The command arrived within about a mile and a half of the Indians undiscovered, at 51 about three o'clock, p. M., but before the disposi- tions and arrangements for making the final charge had been fully completed, one company of cavalry unnecessarily exposed itself, and this pre- cipitated the attack. The Indians were Sioux, forty lodges, Cheyennes, forty-five lodges eighty- five in all. They had been in the raids together, and were to separate the next day. They had evidently concluded to take one day at these splendid Springs, for the enjoyment of their fare- well pow-wow, but it proved to be a " bad medi- cine day " for them. When they saw the com- pany of cavalry that had unfortunately been exposed to their view, they ran out to gather in their horses, which were quietly feeding in the the chief. He was seen, as the troops approached, mounted upon his horse, with his wife and child behind him, trying to escape, but when he found his retreat cut off, he ran into a " pocket " or " draw," in the side of a ravine, with almost per- pendicular sides, where some fifteen other war- riors had taken refuge. He had a very fine horse, which he led to the mouth of this " pocket " and shot dead. He then took his wife and child and pushed them up on the bank of the "pocket," telling her, as he did this, to go and give them- selves up, perhaps their lives would be spared. The squaw and her child, a beautiful girl, went straight to Major North, and raising her hands in token of submission, drew them gently over IXDIAX COSTUMES. ricinity of their camp, a 'mile or more away. There was no time for delay. The troops and scouts charged down upon them with all their speed. The scouts, as usual, set up their infernal war-whoop, and went in with a rush. The In- dians were wholly unprepared for the attack, and some of them were quietly lounging in their tents. In fact it was nearly a complete surprise. They were all under the lead of Tall Bull, a noted Cheyenne chief and warrior, and numbered about five hundred men, women and children nearly or quite two hundred being warriors. Seventeen squaws and children were taken prisoners, and as near as could be estimated, one hundred and sixty warriors were slain, among them Tall Bull, his face and down his form to the ground, where she sank upon her knees, her child standing be- side her. While Major North can talk Pawnee like a native, he could not understand what she said, but as all Indians use sign language to a great extent, he readily interpreted her motions to mean that she surrendered, and wanted him to spare their lives. He motioned her to rise, which she did, and told her by signs to go a little way, sit down and stay there, and she would not be harmed. She then, by signs, indicated that there were seven living braves still in the "pocket," and asked him to go in after them, doubtless thinking that her husband might be saved with herself. He declined this request, 52 especially as the Indians were shooting every one they could see from their concealed position, it being simply a question of life for life, and fur- ther told her that the braves in the ravine would all be killed. The troops and scouts staid around this " pocket," until satisfied that there \vere no living Indians there, and, on entering, found sixteen dead warriors and one dead squaw, lying close together, among whom was Tall Bull. In their raids in the Solomon Valley, they had captured two white women, whose lives they had spared for purposes worse than death, and at the time this attack was made, they were still alive. One of them had been taken by the principal Sioux ehief , and the other was appropriated by Tali Bull, whose wife, doubtless from motives of ignorant jealousy, was accustomed to give her severe whippings, at least six days out of every seven, and her body showed the marks where she had been repeatedly bruised and lacerated by Tall Bull's squaw. The white woman who was appropriated by the Sioux chief, when he found she was likely to be rescued;, was shot dead by him, and only gasped for b v eath a few times af- ter being found by some of the, officers, unable to PAWNEE CHIEF IN FULL DRESS. utter a word. As near as could be learned, her name was Susanna. It was afterwards ascer- tained that she was a Norwegian woman, and General Carr, in his report of the battle, calls the Springs, Susanna Springs, after this woman, and near which she was decently buried, and which name they ought to bear now. When the charge was first begun, Captain Gushing of the scouts, passing by the lodge of Tall Bull, entered it. The chief, as before stated, had fled with his wife and child at the first approach of danger, but in his lodge th^re remained the other captive woman, whom he had shot and evidently left for dead. She A'as a German woman, unable to speak English, and up to this time, had supposed, from the presence of the scouts, that the fight was between Indians, and that whatever the result, there would be no change for the better so far as she was concerned. As the captain entered the lodge, he saw this woman in a sitting posture, nearly denuded, with the blood running down her waist. When the chief left the tent, he had shot her in the side, aiming at her heart, but the bullet struck a rib, glanced, passed part way around her body, and came out near the spine. As the fight had just commenced, Captain Gushing told her by motions and as best he could, to stay there and she would be taken care of, but not comprehending his meaning, and now, for the first time, realizing that white men were engaged in the battle, she thought, as he started to go, that she was to be left, and with the most pitiful moan ever uttered by human lips, she lifted her arms, clasped him around his limbs, and in every possible way, begged him not to leave her with the savages. Others passing by, he called them in, and the woman was partially made to understand that she would be cared for. He disengaged himself from her embrace, and after the fight had ended, returned and took her to the surgeon, who saw that her wounds were not fatal, that they were properly dressed, and provided for her as best he could on the return march to Fort Sedgwick, op- posite where Julesburg now stands, where she was placed in the hospital and soon recovered. A few months later, having no home or friends where she was taken captive, she was married to a soldier, who was discharged by reason of expi- ration of service. The troops and scouts cap- tured in this fight, nearly six hundred head of horses and mules, all the tents of the two tribes, an immense quantity of buffalo meat and robes, fifty guns of various kinds, with pistols, fancy Indian head-dresses, trinkets, etc., and $1,900 in twentv-dollar gold pieces, which the Indians had taken from this German woman's father at the time she was captured. About $900 of this gold was restored to the woman, and if the white sol- diers had been as honest and generous as the brave Pawnee scouts, when the appeal for its restoration was made, every lost dollar would 53 have been returned. Of the $900, the scouts gave up over $600. The seventeen prisoners taken, included Tall Bull's wife and child. They were first carried to Fort Sedgwick, then sent to Omaha, where they were kept under guard for about six weeks, and then sent to the Whetstone Agency, on the Missouri River above Yankton. The widowed squaw married a Sioux Indian at the Red Cloud Agency, where she is now living. Prairie Dogs. The little villages of prairie dogs which are seen frequently by passengers from the car windows, soon after leaving Sidney, and line the track for many miles, are full of curious features of animal life. Ladies clap their hands, and children shout with glee at sight of these cunning little creatures. It is a pretty little animal, curious in shape, always fat, grayish red color, about sixteen inches in length, and always lives with a multitude of its companions in villages. It has a short, yelp- irg sound, which it is very fond of uttering, and has some resemblance to the bark of a young puppy. The curious mounds or burrows are of considerable dimensions, dug in a sloping direc- tion at an angle of forty-five degrees with the surface of the ground. After descending two or three yards they make a sudden turn upward, and terminate in a spacious chamber. In the same hole with the prairie dog is found frequently the burrowing oivl, and often upon the summits of their little burrows may be seen the solemn owl on one side of the hole in stately silence ; while on the other side is the lively little prairie dog, squatted on the fattest part with head bobbed up, and fore paws hanging down, ready at the slightest noise to dart head- first into his hole. In some of these holes rattle- snakes have been found. What harmony or congruity there can be in the lives of these three diverse species of creatures to help form a happy puily, no one can give the reason, but all ac- counts seem to agree that the stately owl and the treacherous snake make their home with the little dogs, to abuse the hospitality of their four- footed friends by devouring their young. The scene presented by one of these dog vil- lages is very curious. The prairie dog is no less inquisitive than timid. On the approach of an intruder, the little creature gives a sharp yelp of alarm, and dives into its burrow, its example being at once followed by all its neighbors. For an instant the village appears to be deserted; but soon their curiosity gets the better of their prudence, and their inquisitive little noses are seen protruding from their burrows, to ascertain the cause of the alarm, a curiosity which often costs them dear. The prairie dog is remarkably tenacious of life, and unless shot in the head is sure to escape into its hole. The writer has often seen attempts to shoot them from the train as it passes. Away scampers the little dog, stomach so full that it touches the ground, while little feet pulled for dear life for its own hole, and by its side or under it traveled the livelier bullet, each tearing up a stream of dust quicker than the eye can follow. Attempts have been made to tame -them as pets, but they rarely ever live long, and have too apt a way of biting off fingers. They live only on the roots of grasses, not being flesh eaters. Burton, an early traveler across the continent in 1861, was immensely interested in his exami- nation of a prairie dog village. The Indians call them " Wish-ton- wish" from some slight resem- blance to this cry. " Wish-ton-wish " was at home, sitting posted like a sentinel upon the roof, and sunning him- self in the mid-day glow. It is not easy to shoot him ; he is out of doors all day, but timid and alert; at the least suspicion of danger he plunges with a jerking of the tail, and a somersault, quicker than a shy young rabbit, into the nearest hole, peeping from the ground, and keeping up a feeble little cry, (wish-ton-wish !) more like the notes of a bird than a bark. If not killed out- right, he will manage to wiggle into his home The villages are generally on the brow of a hill near a creek or pond, thus securing water with- out danger of drowning. The holes, which de- scend in a spiral form, must be deep, and are connected by long galleries, with sharp angles, ascents and descents, to puzzle the pursuer. Lieu- tenant Pike had 140 kettles of water poured into one without dislodging the occupant. The precincts of each village are always cleared of grass, upon which the animals live, as they rarely venture half a mile from home. In the winter time they stop the mouth of their burrows, and construct a deeper cell, where they live till spring appears. The Indians and trappers eat the flesh, declar- ing it to be fatter and better than that of the squirrel. If the meat is exposed for a night or two to the frost, all rankness will be corrected. In the same hole are found rattlesnakes, the white burrowing owl, tortoises and horned frogs, the owl often gratifying his appetite by break- ing open the skull of a young dog, with a smart stroke of his beak." Hiff, the Late Cattle King of the Plains, Had a range 150 miles long, a herd of 26,000 head, and was called the Great Cattle King of the plains, and had the "boss ran che" of this western country. This ranche is in northern Colorado. It begins at Julesburg, on the Lnion Pacific Rail- road, and extends to Greeley, 156 miles west. Its southern boundary is the South Platte River; its northern, the divide, rocky and bluffy, just south of the Lodge Pole Creek. It has nearly the shape of a right-angled triangle, the right angle being at Greeley, the base line being the South Platte River. The streams flowing through it are, first, 55 the liver just named, Crow Creek, and other small creeks and streams which take their rise in living springs, in and near the bluffs of the divide mentioned, and flow in a southerly direc- tion into the South Platte River. It includes bottom and upland ranges, and has several camps or ranches. The chief ranche is nearly south of Sidney, and about forty miles from Julesburg. At this ranche there are houses, sheds, stables, and corrals, and more than two sections of land fenced in. All the cattle bought by the late Mr. Iliff were rebranded and turned over to him at this place. Here are the private stock yards, with corrals, chutes, pens and all necessary conveniences for handling cattle. It is near the river, and of course has fine watering facilities, while from the adjoin- ing bottom lands plenty of hay may be cut for the use of the horses employed in herd- ing. He cut no hay for his cattle ; they live the entire year on the rich native grasses on the range, and with the exception of a severe winter, now and then, the percentage of loss is not very great. Mr. iliff was a thorough cattle man, and from his long experience had a perfect knowledge of the business. He began in 1860, and during the war had government contracts to fill, in New Mexico and other frontier territories. He sup- plied most of the beef to the contractors who built the Union Pacific Railroad, and brought immense herds of cattle from Texas and the Indian Territory which were driven along the line of the road to supply the army of laborers with beef. He had been engaged in the stock business in Kansas, New Mexico, and in Col- orado, and thought that this location was admir- ably adapted to it, if the sheep men would only keep out. Cattle and sheep will not do well on the same range together. Success in either requires separation. Mr. Iliff purchased and owned more than twenty thousand acres of the range occupied which, of course, included the choice springs and watering places within its limits. He had more than 40,000 head of cattle, of all ages, sizes and conditions. The number of calves branded on his ranche one year, readied nearly 5.031) head, and his sales of three and four-year-old steers and fat cows, reached nearly the same number. He realized about $32 per head, net, on these sales. At this rate, 4,000 head would bring the snufj little sum of $128,000. To take care of this im- mense herd, he employed from twelve to thirty- five men very few, usually in the winter months, and the largest number during the " round ups " in the spring. During the ship- ping season of 1875, he had twenty-four men who were employed in cutting out of his herd the four-year-old steers that were ready for market, some fat three-year-olds, and such fat cows as were no longer fit for breeding pur- poses. While engaged in this woik. the same men gather the cows with unbranded calves, which they put into the corrals near by, and after the calves are branded they are turned loose with the herd again. By the introduc- tion of thorough-bred Durham bulls, his herd was rapidly graded up. Jn addition to the cattle raised on his ranche, he dealt largely in Texas and Indian cattle, and advertised for 20,000 head of Texas cattle to be delivered on his ranche during the driving months of 1876. These cattle must be yearlings, two and tliree- year-old steers, and for them he had to pay $7. $11 and $15 per head, respectively. This is, at least, 10 per cent, advance on the prices paid for the same kind of cattle in 1875, and indi- cates tlieir growing scarcity in Texas. Oregon and Montana cattle, are now beginning to come East, and 100,000 head were driven down for the season of 1880 to various points. Mr. Iliff estimated the increase of cattle from his home herd outside of purchases and sale to be about 70 per cent, per year, and about equally divided as to gender. He did not sepa- rate his bulls from the herd, but allowed them to remain with it the entire year. In this part of his management, we believe he made a mistake, as the percentage of increase would be much larger if no calves were born during the severe winter and spring months of each year. The loss in calves at these times must be very great. The shipping points for his ranche were at Pine Bluffs and Julesburg, on the Union Pacific, and at Deers' Trail on the Kansas Pacific. The most of his cattle, however, were shipped over the first-mentioned road. Lest any one should come to the conclusion that this business is all profit, and that the ex- penses and losses do not amount to much, let us further state that Mr. lliff's policy was to keep his expenses as low as possible, having the keeping and safety of his cattle constantly in view. In 1875, the expenses of herding, cutting hay for horses, etc., amounted to less than $15,000. But the losses from thefts and death, some years, ;ire frightful. The winter of 1871-2 was very severe. There were deep snows over his range that remained on the ground a long time, and the storms were incessant. In the midst of these storms, Mr. Iliff visited the ranche, and found his cattle literally dying by thousands. On the islands in South Platte River, he found and drove off into the sand-hills and bluff on the south side, after great exertion, some 2,700 head, and of this number less than half were recovered. Their bleaching bones now whiten the plains in the vicinity where they were frozen and starved to death, and those finally recovered were found in two different States and four different Terri- tories in the Union. More than $20,000 were expended in efforts to find them ; nor was this all. It was impossible to tell, for a number of years, how great the loss had been. His books showed more than 5,000 head unaccounted for. No trace of them, beyond skeletons, could be found. At last, in the spring of 1874, this num- ber was charged to profit and loss account, and the books balanced for a new start. Could they have been sold the fall previous, they would have averaged at least $18 per head, and at this rate would have amounted to $90,000. It will thus be seen that the cattle business is not all profit ; that it is liable to losses the same as any other b usi __-^^ ._-^=^..-=- ness. Taking the years togeth- er, with ordinary care and judg- ment, the busi- ness will pay large profits and prove a desirable investment. We would not, how- ever, advise every man to undertake it. It is a business that must ba learned, and to succeed in it men must have experience, cap- ital, and a good range. Mr. Iliff had all of these, and hence met with correspond- ing success. The 26,000 head he had, he thought on an aver- age, were worth $18 per head. This rate would place the capital he has invested in cattle at the sum of $ 138,000. In addition to this he has 160 head of horses and mules, worth at least $10,000, which are used, principally, in herding, together with wagons, horses, fences, corrals, sheds, stables, mowing- machines, tools and implements, and the large track of land before mentioned. Half a mil- lion dollars is a low estimate to name as the sum he had invested in this business, and yet from its very nature he was liable to lose half of it in the next year. Like other business ventures, if a man goes into it, of course he takes the chances, THE BULLWHACKER OF THE PLAINS. but with care and good management we 'see no reason why he should not, in nine cases out of ten, win every time. Let the facts speak for themselves. Ordinary men can't raise a half million dollars, every day, for such an invest- ment, and if they could command that amount, very few would desire a stock ranche and the cattle business. JKiiUwhackern. A curious character of over- land life, when the plains were covered with teams, and long trains of freight-wagons, was the bullwhacker. He is in size and shape usually of very large pro- portions ; very strong, long, un- kempt hair, and face covered with the stiffest of beards. Eight or ten yoke of oxen were usu- ally attached to each wagon, and often two wag- onswere doubled up; i. e., the tongue of the second wagon passed under the body of the wag- on just before it, and then secure- ly fastened. By the side of his wagon hang his trusty axe and ready rifle, and on the tops of the wagons were spread the red blankets used for their cover at night. Of the bullwhacker, it is said that his oath and his whip are both the longest ever known. The handle of the ordinary whip is not more than three feet in length, but the lash, which is of braided rawhide, is seldom less than twenty feet long. From the wooden handle, the lash swells gradually out for about six feet, -where it is nearly ten inches in circumference (the point called the "belly"); from here it tapers to within a foot of the end, which terminates in the form of a rib- bon-shaped thong. This is called by some face- tiously a " persuader," and under its influence it will make the ox-team progress at the magic 51 rate of twenty miles per day. The effect on a refractory ox is quite forcible. The lazy ox occa- sionally receives a reminder in the shape of a whack in the flank, that causes him to double up as if seared with a red-hot iron. The bullwhacker is universally regarded as the champion swearer of America. He is more pro- fane than the mate of a Mississippi River packet, and his own word is good to the effect that he " kin drink more whisky." The writer who heard this, says that "accompanying this statement were some oj the most astounding oaths that ever fM on the ear." General Sherman humorously tells a story in defence of the extremely profane mule-driver who kept his trains so well closed up during the Jong marches of the army under his command. It is to this effect : " One of the members of a freighting firm in St. Louis desired to discourage the continual blasphemy of the bullwhackers in their employ. Orders were accordingly issued to their train-masters to discharge any man that should curse the cattle. The wagon-masters were selected more for their piety than for any exten- sive knowledge of their duties in the handling of trains. The outfit had not proceeded more than a hundred and fifty miles, before it was stuck fast. A messenger was dispatched to the firm with the information that the cattle would not pull a pound unless they were cursed as usual. Permission to do this was requested and granted, after which the train proceeded to Salt Lake, to which place good time was made." The bullwhacker is astonishingly accurate with his lash. One of his favorite pastimes is to cut a coin from the top of a stick stuck loosely into the earth. If the coin is knocked off without dis- turbing the stake, it is his; if the stake is dis- turbed, the thrower loses the value of the coin. A curious incident is told of a bullwhacker, not- ed for the accuracy with which he throws his lash. He bet a comrade a pint of whisky that he could cut the cloth on the back of his panta- loons without touching the skin beneath. " The bet was accepted. The individual put himself in position, stooping over to give fair chance. The blow was delivered carefully but in earnest, and thereon ensued the tallest jump ever put on record. The owner being minus a portion of his skin, as well as a large fragment of his breeches, and the bullwhacker's sorrowful cry, " Thunder, I've lost the whisky." ChappeU, 387.4 miles from Omaha. Eleva- tion 3,702 feet. It is a side track with section- house near by. Trains meet and pass here, but passenger trains do not stop unless signaled. Lodge Pole has an elevation of 3,800 feet, and is 396.5 miles west of Omaha. The creek from which this station is named, rises in the Black Hills of Wyoming, west of Cheyenne, and is fed by springs and numerous small streams near its source. It generally has water in its channel the entire year. In occasional places it sinks into the sand, runs a distance under-ground, and then reappears on the surface again. The valley of the Lodge Pole is quite narrow the bluffs on either side at times approaching near the track. The whole region of country upon, which we have now entered, is covered with buffalo grass, and affords both winter and sum- mer grazing for immense herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. Stockmen claim that both cattle and sheep will do better in this region than far- ther east, for the reason that the native grasses are more nutritious, and that there is less snow in the winter. Cotton, 406.5 miles from Omaha, and 4,022 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track, named in honor of Francis Colton of Galesburg, 111., and formerly general ticket agent of the road. Sidney is 414.2 miles from the Missouri River, and 4,073 feet above the sea. It is the end of a sub-division of the road, and has a roundhouse and machinery adequate for making minor repairs. The railroad reached and passed here in August 1867. The rocky bluffs which jut up close to the town, were quarried by the railroad men, and stone obtained for various con- struction purposes. It is now a regular eating- station, where all passenger trains stop for break- fast and supper. The railroad hotel is kept by J. B. Rumsey, and passengers may be assured of good meals, with plenty of time to eat, as the train stops thirty minutes. Sidney is the county- seat of Cheyenne County, Neb. The military post here known as Sidney Barracks, "was laid out in 1867, and built in January, 1868, by Colonel Porter. The town has several stores, hotels, saloons and general outfitting establish- ments. It is the nearest railroad point to the Black Hills, it being only 185 miles by actual measurement to Harney's Peak, and the adjacent gold fields, over an excellent wagon road, with wood and water convenient of access. It has become a great outfitting depot for the Black Hills. A daily stage line and freight train now run regularly, reaching Custer City in thirty hours, and Deadwood in forty-eight hours. It is the point where large quantities of military and Indian supplies are shipped to the agen- cies and military posts adjoining. It also has a weekly newspaper. The Sidney Telegraph, which is quite an enterprising sheet. The town still has the characteristics of a frontier place, and not a small number of roughs have died here "with their boots on." In December, 1875, a man was found hanging to a telegraph pole one morning, who had shot another in cold blood, and without provocation. He was taken from, the jail and jailer by masked men and strung up as aforesaid. The town was begun about the time the railroad passed through. D. Carrigan, now probate judge of the county, and James and Charles Moore being the first settlers. James Moore was the post trader here for a long time. He is now dead. In the time of the Pony Ex- press he made the remarkable trip of 280 miles in fourteen hours and three-quarters. The town has had trouble with Indians, and was once attacked by them, as related in another place. Even after the trains were running regularly, the Indians would seek for revenge in ditching them and in killing all the employes they could. Section-men always went armed, ready to defend themselves in case of attack. In April of 1869, the Indians attacked two section-men who had gone to the creek for water, and one of them, Daniel Davidson, was killed his body being liter- ally filled with arrows, liight north of the town, where the traveler can see a small column of stones, was an old fort or breastwork, the re- mains of which are still visible, which was used as a place of defense in case of Indian raids. A bridge across the North Platte lliver, on the road to Spotted Tail's Agency, would largely increase the trade and importance of the town. In 1875, the assessed valuation of Cheyenne County was about $1,250,000. There are a large number of stockmen in the county. Beautiful, Clotul Effects. Artists and all travelers, as they get nearer and nearer to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, will often have fine opportunities to see some magnificent cloud effects. The most glorious sunset ever witnessed by the writer, was one beautiful evening in pass- ing down the line of the Denver Pacific Railroad from Cheyenne. Long's Peak, grand in its sub- limity of snow, was surrounded with a collection of clouds, so poised that the rays of the setting sun showed us each side of them. On the hither side the fleecy clouds were lighted up with the grandest of crimson and golden colors ; in their midst opened little circular or oval windows, which, letting light upon their upper portions, seemed to be of molten silver ; while in their depth of deep azure blue more beautiful than we can de- scribe there seemed to glow the intense colors and reflections from the bosom of a mountain lake. Every few minutes the clouds, at our distance from them, changed their position, and new colors, form's, and rays came and went, and when at last the sun itself dropped slowly behind the very point of the peak, and it shone out in startling clear- ness with the grand display of rainbow-colored clouds above ; the sight seemed like a heavenly vision. The editors of the Xew York and East- ern Editorial Excursion Party of 1875, who wit- nessed the scene, expressed but one sentiment of admiration, that it was far the most superb cloud and sunset scene ever witnessed. Such scenes are very frequent, and exceedingly capti- vating to those who have a true artist's eye and appreciation of colors and effects. An English traveler (to whom beautiful sun- sets are unknown) when once traveling from Ogalalla toward Laramie, over the plains, says, " As we journeyed, the sun approached the hori- zon, and the sky and numerous clouds assumed columns of strange and wonderful beauty. The ' azure vault ' itself was of all possible shades o light green, and also of clear light blue ; some of the clouds were of solid masses of the deepest indigo, while a few were black, some were pur- ple, and others faintly tinged with crimson and gold. Two days before, I had witnessed cloud effects almost equally fine. There is no monot- ony ia the glorious dawns or beautiful sunsets, which are the rule on these elevated plains, and which go far to relieve the tameness of the laud- scape. " As evening approached, on my journey to Laramie, and I neared my destination on the great mountain plains, I saw hovering over one of the snow-capped peaks, a richly colored cloud, so curious in form, and withal so perfect that it might well have been considered a miraculous omen, in the superstitious days of old. It was a most accurate representation of a long waving ostrich plume, in varying tints of crimson and purple and gold ; I gazed on it with pleasure and wonder till it faded away." Sunset in a, Storm. The Earl of Dunraven, in an account of his travels, mentions with won- der these extraordinary sunset scenes : " Just be- fore sundown, the gorgeous flaunting streamers of bright yellow and red that were suddenly shot out across a lurid sky were most wonderful to behold. If the vivid colors were transferred to canvas with a quarter of their real brilliancy, the eye would be distressed by the representa- tion, and the artist accused of gross exaggera- tion and of straining after outrageous effects. " These stormy American sunsets are startling, barbaric, even savage in their brilliancy of tone, in their profusion of color, in their great streaks of red and broad flashes of yellow fire ; startling, but never repulsive to the senses, or painful to the eye. For a time the light shone most brilliantly all over the western hemisphere, breaking through a confused mass of dazzling purple-edged clouds, massed against a glowing, burnished copper sky, darting out bvight arrows through the rifts and rents, and striking full upon the mountain top. " But not long did this glorious effulgence last. The soul of the evening soon passed away ; as the sun sank, the colors fled. The mountains became of a ghastly, livid greenish color, and as the faint rose light paled, faded slowly upward and vanished, it really looked as though the life were ebbing away, and the dull gray death-hue spreading over the face of a dying man." Sunset Scene on Mount Iffis/thnrne. The Earl of Dunraven ascending, in the summer of 1874, the summit of Mt. Washburne was re- warded at sunset with a scene of extraordinary magnificence, which he relates as follows : " The 59 sun was getting very low, and the valleys were I already steeped in shade. To the east all was dark, but in the western heavens long flaming streaks of yellow were flashing across a lowering sky. The masses of black clouds were glowing red with an angry flush. The clear white light of a watery sun had changed into broad streaks of flaunting saffron. Across all the hemisphere, opposed to it, the setting orb was shaking out the red and yellow folds of its banners, challeng- ing the forces of the storm, which was marshal- ing on the horizon its cloud warriors resplend- ent in burnished gold. " The sun sank behind a cloud, and I turned away to descend; but as we went, the sun, though invisible to us, broke through some hid- den rift in the clouds, and shone out bright and strong, splashing its horizontal rays full against the opposite slope, and deluging the lower por- tions of the valley with a flood of intense cherry- colored lurid light. The hills reddened as if beat upon by the full glare of a great furnace. It was a sight most glorious to see. The beauty of it held us and forced us to stop. The glow did not gradually ripan into fullness, but sud- denly, and in all its intensity, struck upon a prominent ridge, lighting up the crags and cliffs, and even the rocks and stones, in all their de- tails, and then by degrees it extended and spread on either side over the foot-hills, bringing out the projecting slopes and shoulders from deep gloom into clear light, and throwing back the valley into blackest shade. Every rock and precipice seemsd close at hand, and shone and glowed with such radiance that you could trace the very rents and crevices in the cliff faces, and mark the pine trees clinging to the sides, while in comparison the deep recesses of the chasms and canons seemed to extend for miles back into dark shadow. As the sun sank, so rose the light, rushing upward, surging over the hills in a wave of crimson mist, really beautiful to be- hold, and illuminating the great bulk of the range, while the peaks were still darkly rearing their sullen heads above the tide, and the valleys ware all filled with gray vapors. At last the glare caught the mist, and in an instant trans- formed it from gray cloud into a gauzy, half- transparent veil, light, airy, delicate exceed- ingly, in color like the inner petals of the rose. Then, as the sun dropped suddenly, the light flashed upon the summit, the peaks leaped into startling life, and the darkness fell." Browitson,. Simply a side track. Elevation 4,200 feet above the sea. Distance from Omaha, 423.2 miles. The station was named after a for- mer general freight agent of the Union Pacific. From Sidney, and in this vicinity, the bluffs are rugged, and look like fortifications or the old castles that we read about. They are simply indications of the grand scenery which is to follow. Potter. 433.1 miles from Omaha. Elevation 4,370 feet. It is a telegraph station. West of Potter you cross the bed of a dry creek, which leads into the Lodge Pole. Dice. Another side track, at which pas- senger trains do not stop. There is a fine stock ranche near by, and the grazing in this vicinity is excellent. It is 442.3 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, with an elevation of 4,580 feet. Antelope. 451.3 miles from Omaha. Eleva- tion, 4,712 feet. A telegraph and coal station, with side tracks and section-house. In Novem- ber, 1875, the Indians, who have a liking for good and fast horses, equal to that of Bonner, the New York Ledger man, went to the ranche of Mr. Jones, a Kentuckian, about twenty miles south of this station, and stole some forty head of blooded horses and mares which he had there for breeding purposes. They are supposed believed to have gone north, and if Uncle Sam's Indian agents would withhold rations from the tribe until they were brought back, or make a thorough search for them, they could .undoubted- ly be found. Many of the animals were thorough- breds, and very valuable. Here is another viola- tion of the Sioux treaty. Mr. Jones will have to pocket his loss, while Uncle Sam will, of course, pocket the insult. Antelope is the home of some old hunters, and if the traveler desires to hear their experiences, let him stop a day and inter- A'iew Jack Evans, who has a ranche here, and Mr. Goff, who has been engaged in the business some fourteen years. Landscape of the Colorado Plains. There is a charm in life on the great plains. To one who visits it for the first time, it seems lonely indeed, and yet it is never wearisome. Now come great rolling uplands of enormous sweep, then boundless grassy plains, and all the grandeur of vast monotony and desolation. Sometimes the grand distances are broken by rugged buttes and bluffs. As they rise in sight, the traveler is as eager in his curiosity as the sea voyager just catching his first view of the dis- tant shore. Over all these plains there. is a sparkling, enthusiasm-giving atmosphere, crisp, strong, magnetic, and a never-failing breeze; even in the hottest days, or portions of the day, the air is bracing, and rarely ever is the sky long cloudless. That vastness of solitude, boundless plains, and boundless sky, that stretch of blue, that waste of brown, never a tree, river, bird, or ani- mal, home or life of any nature, who can de- scribe the sensations, which are so overpowering. As you approach the mountains, the Colorado plains assume more verdure, as they are better watered by the little streams from the foot-hills, or bedewed by the mountain showers. In sum- 60 mer time the landscape is green, and the plains covered with flowers, while in autumn, with the yellow of the prairie grass, the flowers ever stay, new ones coming as old ones disappear. The sunflower is the most profuse of all the species of vegetation that spring up wherever the soil is opened. For thousands of miles, wherever the railroad or a wagon route has made its way across the country, there spring up parallel rows of the ever-living sunflower. In the eastern por- tions of the plains of Nebraska and Kansas, near the Missouri River, may be seen square miles of sunflowers, 7 to 9 feet high ; as we travel farther west, they gradually dwindle until they are, in Colorado, only 3 to 9 inches in height, the oddest little plant in nature, yet perfect in shape and growth. years yet to come, to be only the grazing-field of thousands of buffalo or herds of cattle. Water is scarce, irrigation is impossible, rains uncer- tain, and in many parts the soil is full of soda and alkali. The western march of settlement practically ends at the one hundredth meridian of longitude Xorth Platte. Coyotes. Pioneers, Indians and drivers, unite in the most thrilling exclamations of their detestations of this, the meanest of the animal tribe that infest the plains. Just after twilight, if you happen to be encamped on the plains, you will hear not far off the quick bark of a single coyote. This is the first call, the bugle cry. Then come answers, and the pack of wolves assemble rapidly ; and just as darkness closes down, you have but one enjoyment left, to listen to the most Into this vast area of plains, which reaches from east to west 500 miles, and north to south 1,000 miles, there can be poured nearly all the population of Europe and Asia. Swallowing up by the thousands, the plains, with open mouth, wait with insatiate appetite for more. Into this area can be put the whole of India. It is twice as large as Hindostan, and as large as the whole of the United States east of Chicago. Agriculture is certain as far west as the three hundredth mile from the Missouri River ; from thence westward, to the immediate vicinity of the mountains, no crops can at present be raised. This reach of 200 miles or more is, for many dismal of howling matches. As each new comer arrives he is welcomed with a howl. Each howl is short, and by the band there seems to be a chosen few who execute them in proper manner, with all the variations. After these few have performed some of their most " striking airs," a silence of a few moments' duration follows, and then the whole band breaks out with the most un- earthly noises, which are second to no other noises of plains and mountains. Kit Carson once said of these howls, " that it was only a little dispute as to which coyote had, as the winner of the match, the right to take the stakes (steaks)." A trav- eler says of them : " It is quite impossible to do 61 full justice to this wolf music. There is no racket known to the inhabitants of the more civilized sections of our country which will com- pare with it. All the felines in the neighbor- hood would not make a noise which would begin to equal wolf music." Strange as it may seem, the rough pioneer esteems this music his sweetest lullaby, for as one of the old " rough and readies" says : " If any redskin should take it under his scalp to look about camp, every cuss of them coyotes would shut up his trap and wake the fel- lows up with the quiet" So long as the coyote cries there is no danger from Indians the moment he ceases, danger is near so the pioneer .esteems their music his best lullaby, and their bark his safety. Occasionally the pack, toward early morning, will make a raid into the traveler's camp, and grab any edibles or pieces left within reach; even sometimes seizing the very haversack upon which the sleeper's head is pillowed, but seldom ever touching the per- sons of the campers. As morning approaches, they retire to a safe distance from camp, and squatted on their haunches like dogs, wait till the party leaves. The plains men have an old saying, " That the coyotes can smell a States feller, and then you will not see a coyote anywhere within sight of camp." The explanation for which is supposed to be as follows, given also by the old plains men : " States fellers shoots at any live thing as jumps in their sight, whether it is any 'count to them or no." Adams. A side track 457.3 miles from Omaha; elevation 4,784 feet. The country here is considerably broken, and between the bluffs on either side huge boulders crop out. Bushnell, 463.2 miles from Omaha, and 4,860 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track with water tank. In coming up this val- ley the railroad crosses the Lodge Pole Creek, or its little branches, several times. Near Bushnell is a trestle bridge across the creek. Jfailsformfi. This region of country is fre- quently, in summer, visited with hailstorms and cloud-bursts. In the summer of 1875, a train was overtaken by one of these hailstorms, and not a whole pane of glass was left in the side of the cars toward the storm. The glass in skylights on the top of the cars was broken, and many of the hailstones, as large as a man's fist, bounded through the cars on the opposite side. The wooden sides of the cars were dented, and the sheet-iron casing of the engine-boiler looked as though it had passed through a violent case of the small-pox. When these cloud-bursts occur, the drops of rain seem as large as walnuts, and come so fast that the e'ntire surface of the ground is covered the surplus- water not having time to run off. In such storms the road is liable to washouts, and great care is necessary in the run- ning of trains to avoid accidents. Bushnell is the last station in Nebraska. Just across the line, between it and Wyoming, comes Fine Bluffs, 473.2 miles from Omana ; ele- vation 5,026 feet. The little station takes its name from the stunted pines along the bluffs. Pine timber once was plenty here, but it disap- peared when the road was built. It is the great trail and crossing point for Indians passing from the buffalo grounds on the Republican to Horse Creek and North Platte River. Was several times attacked by Indians during construction of road, several were killed and large amounts of stock stolen. It is now the head-quarters of Judge Tracy's cattle ranche, and several carloads of cattle are shipped each year. Muddy Creek is just west of station, has water most of the time, yet Lodge Pole Creek, beyond Egbert, sinks in the sand. Water can be found in the bed of the stream by digging 3 to 9 feet. This is a telegraph station, with side track, cattle-yards and chutes. Tracy, 478.8 miles from Omaha ; elevation 5,149 feet. It is a side track named in honor of Judge Tracy of Cheyenne. Egbert, 484.4 miles from Omaha ; elevation 5,272 feet. It is a side track with water tank. Three miles south of this side track runs the Muddy, which has quite a settlement of ranche- men. The Lodge Pole at this point is still dry, and the company dug thirty-two feet for the w r ater which supplies their tank. The road here leaves the main valley of the Lodge Pole, to the right, and runs up a branch, in which the bed of a creek is visible, but which never has water in it except after the cloud-bursts spoken of. Burns, 490.7 miles from the Missouri River, with an elevation of 5,428 feet. The grade is now quite heavy as we are going up on to the divide between the Lodge Pole and Crow Creek. Burns is simply a side track where trains occa- sionally meet and pass. Hilltlale, a telegraph station with side track and section-house. The place takes its name from a Mr. Hill, who was killed here by the In- dians at the time the road was located. He belonged to the engineer corps of the road. The company's well here, which supplies the water tank, is 72 feet deep. North and south of this sta- tion numerous sheep ranches have been opened. By looking straight west, up the track, you can here obtain the* first glimpse of the Black Hills of Wyoming and they will come into plain view as you ascend the heavy grade toward the divide. Hillsdale is 5,591 feet above the sea, and 496.4 miles from Omaha. Notice the grade indicated by the elevations as you pass these stations. Atkins, 502.6 miles from Omaha, and 5,800 feet above the sea. It is a side track, simply, with water tank and section-house near by. The well which supplies this station with water is over 200 feet deep. Here the traveler obtains a good view of the Black Hills stretching off to the right. Still up the grade you go, reaching the 62 summit of the divide in the first snow shed on the line of the road just beyond Archer, which is 508 miles from the starting place, with an elevation of 6,000 feet above tide- water. This station is a side track with section- house near by. A short distance farther, you makes its way through the bluffs off to the left. Soon we come to a deep cut through the spur of a bluff, passing which, we cross a bridge over a dry ravine, and then continue up the hill to the " Magic City " of the plains, called Cheyenne. Long's Peak. Travelers will notice, a fev LONG'S PEAK FROM ESTES PARK. enter the shed ; it seems like passing through a tunnel. In the distance there are mountains "to the right of you," and mountains "to the left of you," but we shall see more of them here- after. Leaving the snow shed we are now on a down grade into Crow Creek Valley, which hours before reaching Cheyenne, the snow-clad summit of this bold peak, rising above the dis- tant horizon. It is about sixty miles south-west of the Union Pacific Railroad, and the highest mountain in northern Colorado. The view we here give is taken from Estes Park ; a beautiful little park on its north-western slope, and about twelve miles distant from the summit. This park is about four miles wide, and six miles long, is well sheltered, easy of access, and. beautifully covered with pine and spruce' trees, scattered easily about over the grassy surface, which gives to it a true park-like loveliness. It is partially occupied by a few families who have taken up permanent homesteads, and has been for a long time an excellent pasture for large herds of cattle which live here the entire year. It is also becom- ing quite a pleasure resort, and has many at- tractive features to interest the health seeker and tourist. Excellent fishing, in lovely little trout streams, can be found all over the vicinity. From this valley is the only practicable route for ascending the peak. Long's Peak is 14,271 feet in elevation, and about 6,300 feet above the park. Its construction is of the boldest and most de- cided character, with great walls, deep canons ; and on its sides there are gorges and caverns among the grandest on the continent. Its sum- mit is divided into two sharp crests, the western one being the highest and most difficult of ascent. It is a famous landmark for a stretch of country of more than a hundred miles from north to south. Buffaloes. Buffalo hunting is a pastime tourists can now have little hope to indulge in. Few or no buffaloes ever appear within sight of the car windows of the overland trains, and the vast herds which once roamed for thousands of miles and continually up and down the great plain, are passing away, or disappearing from their old haunts to find some nook or corner more quiet and secure. Thousands of them have been killed for commercial purposes. The hides are stripped off and sold for as low prices as $1.50, while the bones are gathered in heaps near the railroad station and freighted Eastward to be used for commercial fertilizers. In one winter it is estimated that on the lines of the Union and Kansas Pacific Railroad there were killed over 100,000 head. Astonishment of Indians at the Loco- motive and Telegraphs. When the first locomotive was seen passing over the plains, an Indian guide in the employ of the United States exclaimed with inexpressible surprise, " Good medicine, good medicine. Look, look, at the tu-te" (toot). As he passed under the telegraph wires, which then were stretching along the Platte, through which the wind as it swept made the whirr and singing sound of a prairie harp, this guide heard the Bound, and directly declared that they were talking "medicines" This was supposed to be the creations of the Great Spirit, and everything of supernatural nature was " medicine" The Indians have rarely ever molested the telegraph wires which span the continent. Shortly after the wires were erected, the at- taches of the telegraph company invited a number of Indian chiefs to meet them at a given point, and from thence to travel, ono party East and the other West. When they had reached a distance of 100 miles apart, each party was invited to dictate a message to the other, which was sent over the wires. Then turning backward, they rode rapidly toward eacu other, and two days later met and compared notes. They were greatly astonished, and expressed themselves convinced that the " Great Spirit" had talked to them with the wires. They decided from that time it would be well to avoid meddling with the wires. Soon after a young Sioux Indian was deter- mined to show that he had no faith in the Great Spirit's connection with the wires, so he set to work with his hatchet to cut down one of the telegraph poles. A severe thunder- storm was going on at a distance; a charge of electricity being taken up by the wires, was passed to the pole which the Indian was cut- ting, and resulted in his instant death. After that the tribe never molested the telegraph again. CHEYENNE. "Magic City of the Flains-5l6 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,041 feet. Thus truly is it named, for it is at present the most active and stirring city on the entire line. Travelers will here take a dinner in comfortable style at one of the best-kept hotels between the two oceans. It is a good place to rest after a tire- some journey, and it will pay to stop a few days and enjoy the pure air and genial sun in this high altitude. The hotel is owned by the railroad company, and is 150 feet long by 36 wide, with a wing 25 feet square. It has an elegant dining-hall, around which hang the heads of antelope, deer, elk, mountain-sheep, black-tailed deer, buffalo, etc., all nicely pre- served and looking very natural. It is two- stories high, the upper floor being well fur- nished with sleeping-rooms for guests. Chey- enne is the capital of Wyoming and the county seat of Laramie County. Cheyenne has had its ups and downs. Once very lively when the road was building, then it fell dead and motion- less. Now it has arisen again, and is the largest town on the railroad between Omaha and Salt Lake City, having a population of fully 4,000, and rapidly growing. There are two causes for this growth. First, the stock interests which center here, and, second, the recent gold discoveries in the Black Hills. It is the termi- nus of the Cheyenne Division of the Union Pacific Railway, and of the Colorado Division of the Union Pacific Railway, giving two routes to Colorado and New Mexico. During the last few years there has been a large increase in the 65 permanent buildings of the city. In 1875 the Inter-Ocean Hotel was completed a fine brick structure three stories high, and other large and elegant brick blocks, with iron and glass fronts. In proportion to its population, Chey- enne has more elegant and substantial business houses than almost any other Western city. The town has a fine court-house and jail, which cost $40,000, a large public-school building, a good city hall, a brick opera-house, and a palatial club-house costing some $25,000. This is a wonderful change for a place known the world over by its fearful sobriquet of " Hell on Wheels. " Churches have come where gamblers once reigned ; and in five years as many edifices for religious purposes have been erected. The Episcopalians, Methodists, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Baptists and Catholics, have all comfortable church buildings. The school accommodations, owing to the rapid growth of the city, have recently been en- larged. At first sight the traveler would naturally inquire, what there was to build and sustain a town here ? The soil is not pro- lific, nor is the country around ft. Crow Creek bottom is quite narrow, and in the most favor- able seasons, by irrigation, "garden truck" may be raised, but beyond this every thing looks barren and desolate. The soil has a reddish appearance, and appears to consist of decom- posed granite underlaid in the valleys with sand, and on the uplands with rock. In fact, a man who attempts to farm it for a living in this region of the country is simply fooling away his time. Stock Interests. The rich nutritious grass- es with which the great plains are covered are here found in all their excellence, and the large territory east of the base of the Black Kills, north as far as the North Platto Biver, and south to the Gulf of Mexico, is now sustaining millions of sheep and cattle. Cheyenne is lo- cated in the midst of one of the best sections of this territory, and all around it are the ranches of stockmen men engaged in growing cattle, sheep, horses and mules for market. With the exception of sheep, no hay is cut for these ani- mals except for those kept up for use. Winter and summer they thrive and fatten upon nothing but the native grasses. Cheyenne is the central and natural trading-point for these ranchmen and stock-growers. Another large and valuable element of its prosperity is the railroad trade the company having here quite extensive machine and repair shops, with a commodious round-house. Hunting and exploring parties also supply themselves with outfits at this place, and immense quantities of military and Indian supplies also pass through here for the posts and Indian agencies north. To give an idea of the stock business which centers her, and its rapid increase, let us state that 375 cars of cattle were shipped in 1874, which represent 7,500 head. In 1875, the shipments increased to 525 cars, or 10,500 head; in 1880, to 1,000 cars, or about 20, 000 head, with prospects for a large increase in 1881 and future years. It may be well to state here, the shipments from Julesburg, Sidney, Ogallala Pine Bluffs, and other points in this grazing belt of the country, in 1880 aggregated about 50, 000 head, in addition to the Cheyenne shipments. This statement does not include the cattle marketed at home or supplied to the Indian agencies in the North. One hundred thousand head of cattle, one hundred and twenty-five thousand sheep, and six thousand horses and mules are the estimated number owned and held in Laramie County alone. The develop- ment of the cattle and stock interests of this vast upland region is something never thought of, nor entered the heads of the projectors of the railroad. In 1867, when the railroad first arrived, there were not probably a hundred head of all kinds owned in the whole territory, out- side of those belonging to contractors and stage lines. Now it is a leading interest, and repre- sents millions of dollars. Like all other frontier towns, Cheyenne has a history, and it is similar to that of others. It was once a very fast town, and it is not very slow now. On the 1st day of July, 1867, it had one house built and owned by Judge J. B. Whitehead, on Eddy Street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. That house stands to-day, and is known as the Whitehead block. It was built of logs and smoothly plastered outside and in. Hough Times. When it was known that this was to be the winter terminus of the road, there was a grand hegira of roughs, gamblers and prostitutes from Julesburg and other places down the road to this point, and in the fall of that year and winter of '68, Cheyenne contained 6,000 inhabitants. Habitations sprang up like mushrooms. They were of every conceivable character, and some were simply holes in the ground, otherwise termed " dug-outs." Town-lots were sold at fabulous prices. Every nation on the globe, nearly, was represented here. The principal pastimes were gambling, drinking villainous rot-gut whisky, and shooting. Shooting scrapes were an every- day occurrence. Stealing anything from any- body was the natural habit of the thieving roughs. Knock-downs and robberies were daily and nightly amusements. But these things had to come to an end, and their perpe- trators, some of them, to a rope's end. The more respectable portion of the citizens be- came weary of the depredations on property and life. Vigilance committees were organized , and "Judge Lynch" held court, from which there were neither appeals nor stay of execu- tions. Juries never disagreed, nor were there 6G vexatious delays and motions for a new trial. Witnesses were unnecessary , and demurrers of no account. Nor would " the insanity dodge " avail. The victims were known and ' ' spotted " beforehand, the judgments of the courts were unerring and generally righteous. No gallows were erected, because telegraph poles and the railroad bridge across Crow Creek were con- venient of access. When Cheyenne was only six months old, BO frequent were the murders and robberies, and the city authorities so pow- erless, that a vigilance committee was organized. The first knoAvledge of its existence happened thus: Three men were arrested on the 10th day of January, 1868, charged with having stolen $900. They were put under bonds to appear before the court on the 14th of the same month. On the morning of the day after they were arrested, they were found on Eddy Street, tied together walking abreast, with a large piece of canvas attached to them, on which the following words were conspicuous: "$900 stole; $500 returned; thieves F. St. Clair. W. Gr:er, E. D. Brownville. City authorities, please not interfere until 10 o'clock A. M. Ntxt case goes ufi a tree. Bewire of Vigilance Com- m ittee. " Within one year after its organization, the "vigilantes" had hung and shot twelve desperadoes and sent five to the penitentiary. Since that time Cheyenne has been ruled by the law-and-order party, though even these may seem rather lax to Eastern people not accus- tomed to the manners and customs of the fron- tier. Yet the people enjoy " peace." On the 13th day of November, 1867, the track-layers reached the city limits, and on the 14th the first passenger train arrived. The arrival of the track-layers was greeted with music, a display of bunting, while the inhabit- ants turned out en masse to meet them. On the 14th an enthusiastic meeting of citizens was held to extend a public greeting to the railroad officials who had arrived on the first train, among whom were Sidney Dillon, Esq., now president of the company, and General Casement of Ohio, the champion track-layer of the continent. The first city government was organized by the election of officers, on the lOtlr of August, 1867. The first newspaper was issned on the 19th of September, called the Chey- enne Leader, and has maintained its exist- ence ever since publishing daily and weekly editions. Other papers have since been started, but they were short-lived, until the publication of the Cheyenne Daily News, which is a spicy little daily. As the town is now able to sup- port two papers, the News (merged into the Daily Sun) will continue to flourish. 1 Cheyenne is well laid out, with broad streets r.i right angles to the railroad, and has ari t. mntlant supply of pure water. Irrigating J ditches run through the streets. A ditch was \ dug from Crow Creek to some natural "hol- I lows," or reservoirs north of the town, which I form beautiful little lakes. From these the water for the streets is taken by ditches. As a result, trees and shrubbery will soon ornament the streets and yards of the city, which will greatly add to its attractiveness and beauty. A fine system of water works has been con- structed. There are a few local manufactories already in existence, and more will follow, and on a larger scale. Precious Stones. In the adjacent moun- tains, on the hills and bluffs near by, and in the valleys of the streams in this vicinity, a large number of curious and precious stones, gems rich and rare, havo been found. They are very plenty in their natural state, their chief value being in the cost of cut- ting by a lapidary and mounting by a jew- eler. In the immediate neighborhood of Chev- enne the following are found: Moss-agates, in great profusion; topaz, in colors; garnet or mountain ruby : they are usually found in the little heaps of sand thrown up by ants: opals variegated, rare as yet, and valuable; petrifac- tions of wood and shells, which, when cut, polished and mounted, are splendid; amethysts, onyx, black and white, for cameos and jasper. All of these have been found in this vicinity, though some are rare. The most beautiful moss-agates are found about half-way to Fort Laramie, on Chugwater Creek. Messrs. Joslyn & Park, an old and reliable firm of nianufac- 'tiring jewelers, in both Cheyenne and Salt Lake City, have made this biisiness a specialty, and possess the largest and finest collection of stones in the country. Some of them are ex- ceedingly beautiful. Fine specimens of petri- fied palm-wood may be s?en at their store. They are both beautiful and rare. The fact that petrified palm-wood and petrified bones of the rhinoceros have been found in this terri- tory, shows that some six million years ago comparatively recent there was a tropical climate in this region of the country, when the palm flourished in luxuriance, and the rhino- ceros sported in tha warm streams or cavorted around on their sunny banks. Prospects. At present, the greatest cause of the growth and prosperity of Cheyenne is the discovery of gold in the Black Hills of Dakota. This cause will last until, if that country will warrant it, a railroad is built there. The discoveries of gold saeni to be ex- tensive and inexhaustive, and the building of a railroad from some point hero or on the Union Pacific or Missouri River will rapidly follow. The Colorado Division of the Union Pacific Railway gives to Cheyenne very flattering prospects, and its business men are reaping a rich haivest fro:u their investments. The 1. GoMen PnrU SCENES IN THE BLACK HILLS, -ft -novlovo P:irk. 3. Cnstr* P-irV 4 .- T i-'^stone Pealc 5.-\rTnrney's Park. opening of Northern "Wyoming to settlement, the development of the vast mineral resources of the territory, and the continued prosperity of her stock interests, will give to the " Magic City of the Plains " the trade, growth and in- fluence which her location demands. Health. As a resort for health-seekers, Cheyenne has superior advantages. It is about a thousand feet higher than Denver, with an atmosphere not only rarefied but dry. It has good hotels and livery accommodations. Ponies are cheap, and invalids can purchase them and ride over the hills and dales at pleasure. There is also an abundance of game in the vicinity antelope, rabbits, deer, etc. A bear weighing over 1,500 p ~>aa Is was killed near here in 1875. Its skin has baan preserved, and the bear has been mounted in good shape. Frequent excur- sions can also be taken in the warm summer weather to Fort Laramie, Cheyenne Pass and other places, which will expand the lungs and invigorate the body. The results of several years' observations at the United States Signal Station here show that the temperature is more even, taking the years together, than in many places Fjast or on the Pacific Coast. The hot- test days do not equal those which frequently occur in the East, and in the summer months the nights are deliciously cool, assuring the in- valid good sleep under plenty of blankets. Al- though Cheyenne is a good place to sleep, yet the people are wide-awake and " owly " nights. Rapidity of Business at Cheyenne. On the 22d of July, 1867, the first lots were offered for sale by the Union Pacific Railroad Company at Cheyenne 66 by 132 feet for $150. Thirty days after these lots sold for $1,000 each, and in two to three months thereafter, the same lots were again resold at 82,000 to $2,500. On the 15th of July, 1867, there was but one house at Cheyenne. Six months thereafter there were no less than three thousand. The government freight which was transported over the plains to Cheyenne from November, 1867, to February, 1868, four months, amounted to 6,000 tons, and filled twelve large warehouses, and for a long time subsequently averaged 15,000,000 to 20,- 000,000 pounds annually. During the fall and winter, there were three forwarding companies whose business in trans- porting goods, exclusive of government sup- plies, averaged 5,000,000 pounds per month. Stores were erected with marvelous rapidity. One firm constructed an entire store, twenty-five by fifty-five feet, quite substantial, in just forty- eight hours; three hundred firms were in opera- tion that winter, doing mostly a wholesale business; of this number, over seventy made sales of over $10,000 per month each, and with some firms sales reached over $30,000 per month. The first post-office was established October 30, 1867; salary $1.00 per month. In two months the United States mails had increased so enormously as to average 2,600 letters per day, and in two months more this was doubled, and salary increased to $2,000 per year. Though business declined as soon as the termin- us of the road was moved, yet it now has a solid business. The population in 1879 is about 6,000, and there was invested in new buildings, in the single year of 1875, no less than $430,000. The Black Hills Gold Discoveries. For several years the impression has obtained that there was gold in the Black Hills of Dakota, and every exploraticn under the aus- pices of the government has tended to encour- age and strengthen this impression. In 1860, Colonel Bullock, now a resident of Cheyenne, was an Indian agent and trac'er where Fort Laramie now stands. He saw a squaw in his store one day with something in her mouth. He said, "Let ma see that." She gave it to him, and it proved to be a nugget of gold worth about three dollars. He said, " Give that to me." She told him she would for some raisins and candy. These he gave her, and afterwards gave her coffee and sugar to its full value. He showed the gold to his interpreter, and requested him, if possible, to find out where it came from. The interpreter did his best, but the squaw would only say that it was picked up in the bed of a creek, and that the Indians would kill her if she told where it was. During his long experience as a trader with the Indians, Colonel Bullock frequently saw small nuggets of gold, but could never find out where the Indians obtained them, and the inferences he drew from all the information he could obtain were to the effect that the Bear Lodge country, nearly north of the Inyan Kara mountain, was the region where this gold came from. According to the most ( recent information on the subject, the eastern boundary line of Wyoming strikes the Black Hills nearly in the center that about one-half are in Dakota and the other half in Wyoming. Harney's Peak and Dodge's Peak are in the former, while the Inyan Kara and Bear Lodge Mountains are in the latter territory. The Black Hills are mainly confined to a region of territory lying between the forks of the Cheyenne River. In addition to the gulch and placer diggings, already discovered, there have been a few discoveries of what appear to be rich quartz lodes of gold and veins of silver. This region is about one hundred miles long and eighty miles wide. French Creek, Spring Creek, Rapid Creek, Box-elder Creek, Elk Creek, and others, head in these hills, and flow mainly in an eastern direction, emptying into the south fork of the Cheyenne. The north fork seems to hug the hills pretty closely with small creeks and streams, yet unexplored, heading in the mountains and flowing into it. The north fork heads in Pumpkin Butte, a mountain a little northwest of Fort Fetterman, on the North Platte River. West of the north- ern portion of the Black Hills, there are sev- eral ranges of mountains, and several streams which flow north into the Yellowstone River. Ail accounts of this region of country, as far west as the Big Horn Mountain, unite in the report of its rich mineral character. How to Get to the Black Hills. Within the past years of 1877 to 1880, there have been opened three distinct routes to the Black Hills, and it is now easy of ac- cess. The prin- cipal route is via the Union Pacific Railroad and stage line from Sidney. A longer route is occasionally used by steam- ers up the Mis- souri River to Sioux City, Yankton and Port Pierre, and thence by wagon across the plains and " bad lands" of Dakota. This route is long and circuitous, with not as good wood, water or graz- ing as the southern route. From Cheyenne there is a good natural road, which runs to Fort Laramie, a distance of ninety miles, over which the United States mails have been carried for many years. It passes through a country with good ranches at convenient distances apart. From Fort Laramie to Ouster and Deadwood City there is a good wagon road, which has recently been shortened sixty miles, so that the entire dis- tances are as follows : Cheyenne to Fort Laramie, 90 miles; to Cus- ter City, 210 miles; Hill City, 228 miles; Golden City, 268 miles; Rapid City, 260 miles; Rochford, 240 miles; Deadwood, 275 miles; Crook City, 287 miles. AGNES PARK. BLACK HILLS. The Sidney and Black Hills Stage line now runs regularly daily trips over the road with a superior outfit for transportation of all classes of passengers. Hitherto the Cheyenne route has been the principal one since it has been the depot of supplies. It is the route used by the Government Supply trains, is in the prox- imity of four government military forts and stations, and along the entire route there is an ample supply of wood, water and grain. It is also the line of the telegraph to the Black Hills, which connects Deadwood and Cheyenne. The time occupied iii stage travel to the prin- cipal places of the Black Hills is from forty- eight to sixty hours. Sidney has .also become a large outfitting point, and there is now invested nearly $100,- 000 capital in transportation, equipments for passengers and freight to the Black Hills mines. Stages leave Sidney every morning at 9 o'clock, and make the dis- tance in the fol- lowing time: Red Cloud Agency in twenty hours; Buffalo Gap (the point of intersection with stage for Custer, thirty miles West) in thirty li o 11 r s, and reaches the entire distance to Deadwood in forty-eight to sixty hours. By the Sidney route the distances are as fol- lows: To Red Cloud Agency, 109 miles; Buffalo Gap, 171 miles; French Creek, 184 miles; Bat- tle Creek, 196 miles; Rapid River, 214 miles; Spring VaUey, 228 miles; Crook City, 253 miles; Deadwood, 265 miles. The distance by the Sidney route is considerably less than by any other. Result of the Opening of the 'Black Hills. During the season of 1880, the yield 70 of the gold mines -was ovei 83,000,000. Dead- wood bankers are said to have bought abo ve $900,000 "worth of go?d dust, and various amounts have been forwarded in other ways, besides what has been kept in the Hills. This result has been entirely from placer mining. One mining party known as the Wheeler party realized nearly $500,000 in one season. Extra- ordinary success attended their work; $2,600 was cleared in only forty-two hours' work, and in general, on Deadwood Creek, the aver- age to the miners on each claim was $300 to $700 per day. Nearly all the yield of the Black Hills in 1876 was gleaned in the vicinity of Deadwood and Whitewood gulches. Quartz mining has been attempted. First assays were but $38 per ton, and the average of the ores thus far experimented upon vary from $10 to $50 per ton. During the past year several gigantic stamping mills have been erected. Miners with mortar and pestle have taken ore from some of these quartz lodes, and real- ized as high as $15 per day. The width of the mineral belt is now definitely ascertained to be but ten to fifteen miles, but it stretches 100 miles long. The agricultural value of the Hills is beyond all words of expression. The val- leys have been found to be surpassingly fertile, the rain-fall regular and constant, and were any one dissatisfied with mining, still there is room for thousands of farms and peaceful homes. A man prospecting on Iron Creek took out $23.67 from one pan of dirt. Mr. Allen, the re- corder of mining claims, took from his claim four pounds of coarse gold in one month. Professor Jenny, in July, 1875, writing to the Department of the Interior at Washington, announces the discovery of gold in paying quantities near Harney's Peak. "The gold is found in quartz ledges of enormous dimen- sions. Whether the mines be valuable or not, there is a vastness of future wealth in the grass lands, farms and timber. The soil is deep and fertile; the rain-fall more abundant than at any other point west of the AUeghanies." In. the summer of 1875, an expedition headed by General Custer visited this region. He de- scribes finding an abundance of wild fruits, strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, in won- derful profusion; and frequently the wild berry was larger and of a more delicious flavor than the domestic species in the Eastern States. During one week eight hundred miners passed through Hill City, en route for the mines of Whitewood and Deadwood. In most of the creeks the bed-rock lies fifteen to twen- ty and forty feet below the surface. On the first of March, 1877, there were estimated to be over twenty thousand people in the Black, Hills, and rapidly accumulating at the rate of one thousand per month, but since the rich Colorado discoveries at IJeadville, the excite- ment has decreased. A Terrible Thunder Storm. The Black Hills of Dakota are the fear of Indians, because of the frequent thunder storms. Colonel E. I. Dodge, United States Com- mander of the Black Hills Expedition, 1874, states that in this region "thunder storms are quite frequent, terrific in force and power, and fearful in the vividness and nearness of the lightning. There is scarcely a day in sum- mer that there is not a thunder-storm in some part of the hills. " One afternoon, from the top of one of the high mountains, near Harney's Peak, I saw five separate and distinct storms, occurring at the same instant in different parts of the hills. One of these struck our party with fatal results. "A heavy rain-storm coming on, two sol- diers and the boy took refuge under a tall pine. All three were seated on a rock about six feet from the trunk of the tree, and each held in his hand the reins of his horse's bridle. At the flash, the three persons and horses were thrown to the ground, one of the soldiers being pitched quite a distance, alighting on his head. The surgeon was promptly on hand. Each person had been struck on the cheek bone, just under the eye. The fluid passed down the person of each, going out at the ball of the foot, boring a hole in the shoe sole as clean and round as if made by a bullet, and raising a large blood blis- ter on the bottom of the foot. Neither had any other mark whatever. Skipping from the men to the horses, the flash prostrated all, striking each just over the eye. Two soon recovered their feet* and the third was killed. "During this storm, which lasted scarce half an hour, more than twenty trees were struck by lightning within a radius of a few hundred yards. "At another time I witnessed another curious and unaccountable phenomenon. I was on a high mountain of the Harney group. Within four miles of me, in differ- ent directions, were three thunder storms, their clouds being probably five hundred or one thousand feet below me. Though I could see the vivid and incessant flashes of lightning, not a sound of the thunder could be heard. Throughout the Hills the number of the trees which bear the mark of the thunder-bolt is very remarkable, and the strongest proof of the violence and fre- quent recurrence of these storms. The elec- tric current acts in the most eccentric way. In some cases it will have struck the very top of a 71 lofty pine, and passed down, cutting a straight and narrow groove in the bark, without any ap- parent ill effect on the tree, which remains green and flourishing ; at other times the tree will be riven into a thousand pieces, as if with the blows of a giant axe, and the fragments scattered a hundred feet around." Rainbows. " The rainbow ot the Black Hills is a marvel of perfection and beauty. Two or three times wider than the rainbow of the States, it forms a complete and perfect arch, both ends being, sometimes, visible to the beholder, and one so near and distinct that there would be little difficulty in locating the traditional ' pot of gold.' Very frequently the rainbow is doubled, and several times I saw three distinct arches, the third and higher being, however, a comparatively faint reflex of the brilliant colors of the lower." 867 feet at base, 297 feet at top. It rises 1,127 feet above its base, and 5,100 feet above tide- water. Its summit is inaccessible to anything without wings. The sides are fluted and scored by the action of the elements, and immense blocks of granite, split off from the columr by frost, are piled in huge, irregular mound? about its base. The Indians call this shaft " 1 he Bad God's Tower" Game. The Hills are full of deer, elk, bears, wolves, cougars, grouse, and ducks. The streams have an abundance of fish, although of but few sorts. After careful investigation General Dodge closes with this expression of careful judgment : Opinion of General Dodge. " 1 but ex- press my fair and candid opinion when I pro- nounce the Black Hills, in many respects, the DEVIL'S TOWER BLACK HILLS. Mountains. Harney's Peak is 7,440 feet above tide-water, the other peaks are Crook's Monument, Dodge's Peak, Terry's Peak, Warren's Peak, Ouster's Peak, Crow Peak, Bare Pe*, Devil's Tower, 7,600 feet elevation. 7,300 feet elevation. 7,200 feet elevation. 6,900 feet elevation. 6,750 feet elevation. 6,200 feet elevation. 5,200 feet elevation. 5,100 feet elevation. The Devil's Tower is one of the most remark- able peaks of the world. General Dodge de- scribes it thus : " An immense obelisk of granite, finest country I have ever seen. . The beauty and variety of the scenery, the excellence of the soil, the magnificence of the climate, the abundance of timber and building stone make it a most de- sirable residence for men who want good homes. " As a grazing country it can not be surpassed, and small stock farms of fine cattle and sheep can not fail of success. " Gold there is every-where in the granite qrold enough to make many fortunes, and tempt to the loss of many more. 72 WILLIAMS' CAXOX. COLORADO SPRINGS. BY THUMBS MOHAN. 73 " Here is a country destined, in a few years, to be an important and wealthy portion of the great American Republic." There is little doubt that in a few years this section, from the Black Hills of Dakota to and across the Big Horn region, and all northern Wyoming, will be a rich field of industry, as have been Colorado and Utah. The illustrations we give are from photographs taken by General Ouster in his famous Black Hills Exploring Expedition of 1875, and represent this country to be of great scenic beauty. COLORADO. J '/ensure Resorts. Colorado is an empire of itself in enterprise, scenic beauty and abund- ance of pleasure resorts. In 1870, few or none of these were known, and towns were small in number and population. Since that time, it has become a center of great railroad activity, has grown in wonderful favor as an attractive region for summer travel ; and as a country for health- giving and life-giving strength, it" has drawn thither thousands who have made it their perma- nent home. The Colorado Division, Union Pacific Itiiilivay. Tourists to Colorado will find a journey over this railroad line, opened in 1877, of special interest and attractiveness. Horton Reclining Chair Cars run direct over this line from Cheyenne to Denver, simply changing trains at Cheyenne, and all trains make connec- tions from Denver for Union Pacific trains East. The route for the first fifty or more miles south passes at the base of the Rocky Moun- tains, in grand view of their sublime snow- capped summits. The equal of this ride is not found in any railroad in the Far "West. At Fort Collins the railroad crosses the famous Cache li Poudre Valley, one of the finest and most lovely regions of agricultural wealth in the State; and up which the Greeley, Utah and Pacific Rail- road is now being constructed into the rich silver districts of North Park. Wheat and all kinds of grain are here cultivated in large farms, and yield luxuriant crops. JJstes I'di'/t- is a place of superb scenic at- traction, which will afford a most pleasurable resort for the overland Tourist to visit. It is reached by stage from Longmont, distance 36 miles, contains a very superior mountain hotel, and a wide expanse of park scenery, with mag- nificent views of Long's Peak, and the snowy caps of the neighboring peaks ; also there is abundance of trout fishing. For a health resort to any one seeking rest and recuperation, a sojourn here will be found particularly enjoyable. .Lon-ffinont is in the midst of a thriving agri- cultural country, with large and rich farms the country is nearly level yet the supply of water is abundant for irrigating purposes, and the farmine advantages of the country are good. Some of the little farms are gems in their neat- ness. The railroad here is at its greatest dis- tance from the range ; hence they seem smaller, and lower in elevation, with less snow, though here and there is an opening in the range which reveals the glorious form of some tall snow COT- ered monarch. The population is about 1,000. Boulder is most prettily located at the entrance to the famous Boulder Canon, and immediately in a little cove at the base of the mountains. The valley is the most fertile in the State, the -water supply is un- surpassed, the climate is the mildest of any northern country, and the crops are much earlier than any place for one hundred miles from Denver. Tourists will find numer- ous mines near here worth visiting, also most interesting rides up Boulder Canon, Bear Creek Canon, and a trip to Caribou Silver mines. The railroad, as it passes Southward and rises out of the valley to the upland, reveals, as you cast a glance back, a wondrously beautiful view of landscape charms. The mountain view is sub- lime; the near peaks being dark, while the dis- tant ones, well covered with snow, afford start- ling contrast and are beautiful in the extreme. From Boulder to Golden Junction, and thence to Denver, the railroad crosses alternately high upland, then descends into and crosses the valley of many streams flowing from the mountain, which irrigate a region of wonderful agricultural fertility. Upon these uplands', there is a mag- nificent and exhilarating breeze, constantly blow- ing from the mountains. Dark Canons appear and disappear as the Tourist travels on. The afternoon sun often reveals glorious displays of sunset colors on the clouds, thunder storms with lightning often give wild and thrilling effects. And at each descent from the upland into each little valley, the view is one of beauty and pleas- ure. The railroad as it turns East from Colorado Junction, reveals at the right, the busy town of Golden ; a mile distant, over it, towers a peak of 1,000 feet high and down the little valley of Clear Creek, the route passes till your terminus at Denver. This route of reaching Denver from the East must be specially advantageous to Tourists. Zhe Cheyenne Division, Union Pacific Railway, also runs direct from Cheyenne, southward, to Denver, and trains connect with. the mid-day trains of the Union Pacific Railway. The distance, 106 miles, is mainly over a vast level plain, covered only with the short gray buffalo grass, but parallel with the main range of the Rocky Mountains, and twenty to thirty miles from their eastern base. Greeley Named in honor of Horace Gree- ley, and settled in May, 1870. The colony- possesses about 100,000 acres of fine alluvial soU in the valley of the Cache la Poudre Riv^r. 75 Irrigating ditches have been constructed, and there is an abundance of water for all agricul- tural purposes. The town for several years has increased with steady rapidity, and the popula- tion is slightly over 3,500. At this place are located some of the finest grist-mills of the entire West. The place has achieved consid- erable reputation as a temperance town. Denver is the capital of the State. This has become a large railroad point. From it diverge the Kansas Division Union Pacific Railway, 636 miles eastward to Kansas City, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, Narrow jteuge, southward, to Canon City, Pueblo, Leadville, Trinidad and San Juan; the Denver and South Park Division Union Pacific Railway to South Park, Leadville, and the Gunnison country; also the various branches of the Colo- rado Division Union Pacific Railway to George- town, Idaho Springs, Central City, and the mines of the mountains. In course of con- struction are: the Denver and New Orleans Rail- way, running to the southeast to connect with the Texas system of railroads; the Denver, Western and Pacific Railway, running north- west to the Boulder County coal-fields and Longmart; the Denver, Utah and Pacific Railroad, running westward through South Boulder Canon to the Middle Park country, while the projected lines are almost "legion." Its population exceeds 40, 000, and its location is most advantageous for easy trade and com- munication with all the principal points of the Territory. Located on an open plain, about thirteen miles from the Rocky Mountains, there is a grand view of the entire range from Long's Peak on the north to Pike's Peak on the south, while eastward, northward and southward stretch the vast upland plains which are so im- pressive with their boundless extent. The city is full of thrift, of life, and trade is always splen- did. The buildings which grace the principal streets are made principally of brick, and in general appearance are superior to those of any city west of the Missouri River. Daily, weekly and monthly newspapers thrive. Here is a branch of the United States Mint, gas-works, water-works, steam heating works, electric light works, horse-railroads, and a multitude of hotels. The best of which are the Windsor, Grand Central, Inter-Ocean, American, Went- worth, Delmonico and Villa Park. From this point the traveler can radiate in all directions in search of pleasure resorts. Notes to Tourists. The uniform railroad fare in the State averages eight cents per mile. Stage routes run all through the mountains, fare from ten to twenty cents per mile. The uniform rate of board is four dollars per day, and almost everywhere can be found excellent living the nicest of beefsteak, bread and biscuit. In many of the mountain resorts plenty of good fishing can be found, and delicate trout are common viands of the hotel tables. The best season of the year for a visit to Colorado is in July and August, as then the snow has nearly disap- peared from the mountains, and all the beauti- ful parks and valleys are easily approachable. Those who wish to include both Colorado and California in a pleasure trip will do well to visit California first, during April, May and June, and then on returning spend July and August leisurely in the cosy little home resorts of Colorado. The Denver and Rio Grande Kailroad will carry the traveler southward from Denver, along the base of the Rocky Mountains, to some of the most noted pleasure resorts of the State. This little narrow gauge is a wonder of itself, representing nearly $20,000,000 of capital, and operating over 700 miles of road; it has devel- oped a traffic exceeding $500,000 per month, where ten years ago the stage route did not real- ize $1.000 per month, and the prospects for the future for its trade with the miners of the San Juan country, Leadville and Santa Fe, are most encouraging, as the new gold discoveries become better developed. Seventy -six miles south of Denver, on this line, are clustered three little places of resort, practically one in interest Colorado Springs, Colorado City, and Manitou Springs. The former is the rail- road station, a lively town, which in eight years has risen from the prairie to a population of 5,000. Six miles distant from the Springs at Manitou, are collected several elegant hotels, and in the vicinity are numerous soda springs iron springs and medicinal baths of great vir- l tue. The location of this resort, with its won- derful collection of objects of natural interest and scenery, has earned for it the title of "Saratoga of the Far West." Travelers find here beautiful scenery in the Ute Pass Garden of the Gods Glen fiyrie, numerous beautiful canons, Queen Canon Cheyenne Canon, grand and impressive, and towering over all is the lofty summit of Pike's Peak, 14,300 feet high, up which ascends a trail to the Government Signal Station, the highest in the United States. In this vicinity is located a pretty little canon about fifteen miles in length, with walls of rock rising to a uniform height of 600 and 800 feet above a very narrow foot pass below. This canon was discovered and named, in 1870, by a party of editors, Williams' Canon, in honor of H. T. Wil- liams, their commander. This was the first visit of an Eastern party of any notoriety at the Springs. No railroad was then built, and not a house was to be seen, nor even a ranchman's cabin. The scenery of this canon (see illustra- tion) is at various points wild in the extreme. The canon boasts several noted caves, the "Cave of the Winds " being one of the largest, most beautiful and generally attractive in the country. 1 * 76 MOUNTAIN OF THK HOLY CROSS, COLORADO. 77 Pleasure travelers are uniformly glad that they have made a visit to these points, as they excel in interest any other points in the Western trip. Southward from Colorado Springs, the next most noted resort is Canon City and the Grand Canon of the Arkansas. This is a scene of remarkable beauty and magnificence ; at one point can be seen the river winding its way for ten miles, at the base of huge perpendic- ular rocks which rise fully 1000 and 2000 feet above the current. This is the grandest canon view in Colorado. Westward from Colorado Springs is the South Park, a noted route for travelers who enjoy camping out, and a fine drive through the mountains. Garden of the Gods. TJte Beautiful Gate. This is also a famous pleasure resort at Manitou, near Colorado Springs. Midway be- tween the Station and Springs is located one of the most beautiful and curious little parks, and upheaval of rocks that Western scenery can dis- play. Descending from parallel ridges into a little park, the traveler sees in front of him a beautiful gate of two enormous rocks, rising in massive proportion to the height of 350 feet, with a natural gateway between of 200 feet in width, with a small rock in the center. Standing a little eastward, the observer gets the view illustrated in our engraving. At the right is another parallel ridge of rocks, pure white, which contrasts finely with the dark red of the rocks of the gate. Through the gate, in the long distance is seen the summit of Pike's Peak, eighteen miles away. Around these rocks is a little grassy park of fifty or more acres, in which according to the mytholog- ical stories of the people, the "gods " found such lovely times in play that they christened it a gar- den. These two parallel ridges of white and red rocks extend for many miles at the foot of the mountains, and form other curious formations at Glen Eyrie, Monument Park and Pleasant Park, although much less in size and impressiveness. The Dome of the Continent Grau's Peak. Westward from Denver sixty-five miles, and fourteen from Georgetown, Colorado, rises the grandest and most beautiful of the moun- tains of Colorado. The way thither is ono of easy approach, via the Colorado Division Union Pacific Railway, through the magnifi- cent and world-famous Clear Creek Canon, past Idaho Springs, one of the most charming f summer resorts, and past all the mines of Golden, Empire, Georgetown, and the silver mines of thy Palisades. Near to the summit are two very suc- cessful mines, Baker and Stevens, which are dug out of the perpendicular face of a rock fully 200 feet in height. Rising above all the ranges of the Colorado Mountains of north Colorado, Gray's Peaks are the grand Lookout Points, from whiVh to view to advantage all the vast mountain range. In a clear day the observer can embrace in his range of vision a distant" of 100 miles, in each direction, northward, southward and westward, and even eastward to over the plains east of Denver. From this point are plainly discernible Pike's Peak, 80 miles away, Mount Lincoln, 50 miles ; Mount of the Holy Cross, 60 miles ; Long's Peak, 50 miles ; the City of Denver, 65 miles, and even the summit of the Spanish Peaks, 150 miles southward, and the higher ranges of the Uintah Mountains, 150 miles westward. The total range of the vision being not less than 200 to 250 miles. Beneath them at the foot, lie the beautiful rivers and lakes of Middle Park ; southward the vast extended plains of South Park, and everywhere near at hand multitudes of little grassy parks, like valleys dotted with the groves of spruce and pine, as if planted for a grand pleasure ground. The height of the Peak is 14,351 feet, and is the easiest of access of all the mountains of Colo- rado. Travelers and pleasure tourists who desire one grand sight, never to be regretted, must not fail to include this in their W'estern visit for the sublimity and grand exaltation as from so lofty a height one views a sea of huge mountains, is a thing always to live in one's memorv. There is a fine road to within three miles of the summit, through charming verdure-clad canons and val- leys and the rest of the way can be made over a fine trail by horseback, even to the summit. Westward from Denver are Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Gray's Peak, Middle Park, Clear Creek, and Boulder Canons, with the mining at- tractions of Central City, Georgetown, Empire, Caribou, and Black Hawk, where the observer can witness sights of extraordinary beauty. We can not possibly describe the attractions of these resorts. They are at once terrible, overpower- ing, lonely, and full of indescribable majesty. Amid them all the tourist travels daily, imbib- ing the life-giving, beautiful, fresh air full of its oxygen to quicken and stimulate the system j the eye drinks in the wealth of scenery, and loves to note the beauties of the wonderful glow- ing sunlight, and the occasional cloud-storms, and wild display of power and glory. We know of no country better worth the title of the " Switzerland of America " than Colorado, with its beautiful mountain parks, valleys, and springs. Go and see them all. The tour will be worthy of remembrance for a life-time. The editor of this Guide expects soon to issue The Colorado Tourist, devoted more especially to the attractions of Colorado, as the limits of this Guide can not begin to possibly describe a hun- dredth part of the objects of interest within that little region a world of pleasure travel by itself. Of Life in Colorado, a prominent writer has said : " At Denver I found, as I thought, the grade of civilization actually higher than in most Western cities. In elegance of building, in fin- ish, in furniture, in dress and equipages, that city is not behind any this side of the Atlantic border. The total absence of squalidity and vis- 79 ible poverty, and I may also say of coarseness and rowdyism, impressed me on my visit very strongly, as did the earnestness, activity and in- tensity of life which is everywhere so apparent.'' P. T. Barnutn once said of Colorado, in a lec- ture : " Why, Coloradoans are the most disap- pointed people I ever saw. Two-thirds of them ' came here to die, and they can't do it. This wonderful air brings them back from the verge of the tomb, and they are naturally exceedingly disappointed." The average temperature is about 60-the year round the air is bracing, ^winter mild, and days almost always full of clear skies and bright warm sunshine. The purity and dryness of the atmos- phere are proverbial. Mountain of the Holy Cross. The name of this remarkable mountain is renowned to the ends of the earth, and is the only one with this name in the world. It is the principal mountain of the Sawatch Range, just west of the Middle Park of Colorado, and is now easy of access. The Hayden party were several days in merely rinding an accessible way of travel to reach its base. The characteristic features which give it its name is the vertical face, nearly 3,000 feet in depth, with a cross at the upper portion, the entire fissures being filled with snow. The cross is of such remarkable size and distinct con- trast with the dark granite rock, that it can be seen nearly eighty miles away, and easily dis- tinguished from all other mountain peaks. The snoxv seems to have been caught in the fissure, which is formed of a succession of steps, and here, becoming well lodged, it remains all the year. Late in the sumrnwr the cross is very much dimin- ished in size by the melting of the snow. A beau- tiful green lake lies at the base of the peak, almost up to the timber line, which forms a reservoir for the waters from the melting snows of the high peaks. From this flows a stream with many charming cascades. The height of the mountain is 14,176 feet above tide-water. The perpendicu- lar arm of the cross is 1,500 feet in length, and fully 50 feet in breadth, the snow lying in the crevice from 50 to 100 feet in depth. The hori- zontal arm varies in length with the seasons, but averages 700 feet. The mountain was ascended by the Hayden party only with the greatest diffi- culty, after 5,000 feet of climbing fifty pounds of instruments on each back, and obliged to pass thirty hours on the summit, with no shelter, pro- tection, fuel or provisions, except one pocket lunch. New Pleasure Resorts in Colo- rado. Overland tourists, desiring to behold the grand- est scenery in America should stop at Cheyenne, and visit some of the following newly opened resorts. In every respect the title of THE AMERICAN SWITZERLAND is well deserved, for the wild, weird, majestic and colossal, are so min- gled with scenes of valley loveliness or Alpine sublimity, as to be beyond description. You should not fail to visit JSstes Park, a little gem of parks, the pret- tiest in Colorado, easily reached by stage on every side. The view as you reach the rim of the park, and look down is glorious in the extreme. We have seen none of Bierstadt's paintings to equal it. Cozy hotels are found in the park, nice living, cheap prices, saddle horses and abundance of trout fishing. A few days can be spent in the midst of most enchanting park and mountain scenery. A rim of snow-capped mountains sur- rounds the valley, which in appearance very much resembles an English park. Clear Creek Canon. Do not fail to visit this, one of the wonders of Colorado. A little narrow gauge railroad from Denver to Golden, thence pushes its way right up the course of the canon, where it makes its way between the tor- rent of the rapid creek, and the waifs of stupen- dous rocks. These rocks rise 1,000 to 2,000 feet in elevation of almost perpendicular direction, and succeed one another in the most inconceiva- ble wildness, tortuosity and extreme sublimity, alternating with extreme wildness, a scene of splendor and wonder. The grade of the rail- road averages over 100 feet to the mile. Upon this road are three places worth special visits, Central City where are rich gold mines, and where horses can be obtained for the ascent of James Peak, or Boulder Pass one of the most magnificent views in all the West, Idaho Springs is celebrated for its Soda and Sulphur Spring* which are great help to invalids. Georgetown, is the scene of rich mines, and from this place are many routes to famouo points of scenery. Here horses can be engaged for the ascent of Grays Peak, a tour of a life- time, the grandest of all mountains in Colorado. Its ascent is very easy, and costs but trifling. No tourist should omit it, as you can behold in a clear day a sea of mountains, and a vision of 500 miles before your astonished gaze. The Middle Park. From Georgetown also is a splendid wagon road to the Hot Sulphur Springs, Middle Park. These are excellent for all who feel the need of health, a grand place for camping parties. West of here is rich fish- ing and hunting, and the scenery of the Canon of the Grand, on the west, or Grand Lake on the east, is very attractive. From this place one can travel on horseback the entire distance across the mountains to Utah, with little inconvenience, trails already existing in the valleys of rivers. Scenery of Southern Colorado, re- quires more staging, but is still more grand than that of Northern Colorado. Here are the richest mines recently discovered, which pro- duce half a million dollars per week. This sec- 80 tion of country is divided into two parts. The first being via the Denver and South Park Division Union Pacific Railway, which is the principal route to Leadville and the Gunnison country. The scenery near here is most in- spiring. The canons traversed by the railway are full of rugged beauty; while ascending the Platte Canon, the grade is often 140 feet to the mile, and the gorges between the mountains are often 2,000 feet high. The ride to Leadville is very enjoyable, across the South Park, in view of the glorious mountains. At Fairplay you can take horses for an ascent up Mount Lincoln, 14,299 feet high. The view here is finer than from Pike's Peak. Around is seen a sea of snow- capped peaks, and at its base a little gem of a lake. The second route to the scenery of Southern Colorado is -via the Denver and Rio Grande Railway. From Canon City no finer ride is possible than an excursion to Rosita, and return ; thence a trip up the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, and on through the Arkansas Valley to Twin Lakes would be most glorious. A person visiting Leadville may enter this route and return by the other and vice versa. An- other tour over this railroad is ina Pueblo to Trinidad and Garland. Scenery of Veto, Pass. This is one of the highest railway points in America, 9,339 feet elevation. The scenery is extremely peculiar. The little railroad ascending a pretty canon, beautifully timbered for several miles, suddenly turns, crosses, and returns on the opposite side ascending in a steep grade of 211 feet average to the mile, until, as it reaches the extreme crest of the summit of the Dump Mountain, there bursts before the astonished visitor a glorious vision. To the south the Spanish Peaks, to the north Veta Mountain, and to the northwest the immense form of Mount Blanca, the highest of the range. The railroad from this crest immediately turns and follows back on the ridge only a few feet from its track on the other side, and then ascending, amid timber, passes over the summit of the divide into the San Luis Park, whence it continues westward to the San Juan Mountain country, about 200 miles distant, where is not only the grandest of mountain scenery, but also infinite riches of mineral wealth. Powder River Country. The Powder River, so named from the dark powder-colored Band in its bed, rises in the Big Horn Mountains, north and north-west of Old Fort Casper, and runs in a general north-easterly direction till it empties into the Yellowstone River. It drains an immense area of country, flows through a large region of fine grazing lands, and has in the mount- ains and hills on either side, untold treasures of rich metals and precious gems. It has hitherto been forbidden ground to white men, but those who have passed through it give glowing descrip- tions of its luxuriant fertility, its grand scenery and its mineral wealth. It will be one of the finest grazing-regions in the country, producing vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses. There are also heavy bodies of timber on the hills and mountains which border this river. Its wonders are just beginning to be told. The Tongue Jbtiver Country. This is sim- ilar to that borderin the Powder River, but the soil is more fertile and better adapted to agri- ' cultural pursuits. The Tongue River rises in the Big Horn Mountains, in the central portion of northern Wyoming, and runs north into the Yellowstone River. It abounds in the usual varieties of fish, and game is abundant along its banks. It is a very crooked stream. Colorado Junction 522.4 miles from Oma- ha, with an elevation of 6,325 feet is the junction with the Colorado Div. U. P. Railway. As you leave Cheyenne, looking off to the right, you will see the Black Hills of Wyoming stretching to the north, and you will wonder how you are to get by them. To the left. Long's Peak rears its snow-capped summit high into the air. It is one of the famous mountains of Colorado, and you have a better view of it on the Colorado Central than from the Union Pacific. It is always crowned with snow and frequently ob- scured by clouds. How grand it looks, and how huge it appears in the distance. Otto, 530. miles from Omaha, and 6,724 feet above the sea. Every opportunity for ob- taining the mountain views, both to the right and left, should be observed and taken advantage of. This is the usual passing place where the ex- press trains meet from East and West. Granite Canon is the next station, 535.6 miles from Omaha, and 7,298 feet in altitude. You approach this station high upon the side of a ravine, and through deep cuts in granite spurs. Stunted pines, like lone sentinels, are seen on the bleak hills. Here are large quarries of stone from which the railroad company's build- ings at Cheyenne were constructed. The cuts, through a reddish granite, are short but very heavy. Snow sheds are now quite frequent. JBuford, 542.5 miles from Omaha ; eleva- tion, 7,780 feet. It is a telegraph station. As you leave it on your left, the " Twin Mountains," two peaks in the Black Hills, lift their rocky heads above the barren waste " around them. Near these mountains the noted desperado, Jack Slade, once had his retreat. The country here is covered with short buffalo grass, cut with ravines and draws, abounding in fine springs, and in places, covered with pine trees. The dark hues of the pine give the hills their name, "black," and in places the timber is quite heavy. A short distance to your right, Crow Creek rises and winds its way among the hills to the plains be- low. Four and a harlf miles north from Buford, near the valley of Crow Greet, mines of copper VQV8I8F. 81. and silver have been discovered. The ore assays over <$50 per ton, but is very refractory. Notice on north side of road the signboard, "Summit of the Mountains." Sherman is 549.2 miles from Omaha, at an elevation of 8,242 feet. At the time the road was completed here, it was the highest railroad point in the world, but there are higher places now reached by rail in South America, it has been reached by an ascent so gradual that you have hardly noticed it. In the past few years there have been many changes in grade of the Union Pacific, and wherever possible, the track has been raised above the cuts, so the snow, unless in immense quantities, now causes but little impediment to travel. At Sherman, the snow never falls very deep, but there is a con- mile, and the maximum grade of any one mite is 90 feet. From Sherman to Laramie, the dis- tance is 23.4 miles ; the average grade is 50 feet to the mile, while the maximum grade of any one mile is the same as on the eastern slope 90 feet to the mile. These grades indicate why this route across the Black Hills was selected in preference to others where the altitude was not as great the approach on either side being more gradual, though the elevation is greater. Nearly all trains between Cheyenne and Laramie have two engines attached so that they may be easily controlled. It is a steady pull to the summit, from each side, and the heavy down grades from it require a great deal of power to properly con- trol trains. About mile west of Sherman on the left side of the road, is "Reed's Rock," so SKULL ROCKS, stant breeze, that most Eastern people would pronounce a gale, and the snow is constantly drifting and packs so hard wherever it finds lodgment, that it is exceedingly difficult to dis- place, requiring an immense power of snow- plows, engines and shovelers. As you approach Sherman, you will see the balanced" rocks, and to the right of the. station, about one-quarter of a mile, is a rugged peak, near which are graves of some who are quietly sleeping so near heaven, and a solitary pine tree, like a sentinel keeping guard over them. Sherman is a telegraph sta- tion, has a hotel, one or two saloons, several houses, and a roundhouse where an engine is kept for use in cases of emergency. The differ- ence in elevation between this place and Chey- enne is 2,201 feet, and distance nearly 33 miles. The average grade from Cheyenne is 67 feet per XEAR SHERMAN. called from one of the civil engineers who laid out the road. Something like two hundred feet to the eastward of the station, and on the north side of the track, there may be seen a post, bearing the important announce- ment that this is the -'Summit of the Rocky Mount' aim." Station is named after General Sherman. Dale Creek Bridge is about two miles west of Sherman. This bridge is built of iron, and seems to be a light airy structure, but is really very substantial. The creek, like a thread of silver, winds its devious way in the depths be- low, and is soon lost to sight as you pass rapidly down the grade and through the granite cuts and snow sheds beyond. This bridge is 650 feet long, and nearly 130 feet high, and is one of the won- ders on the great trans-continental route. A water tank, just beyond it, is supplied with water 82 DALE CREEK BRIDGE. from the creek by means of a steam pump. The buildings in the valley below seem small in the distance, though they are not a great way off. The old wagon road crossed the creek down a ravine, on the right side of the track, and the remains of the bridge may still be seen. This stream rises about six miles north of the bridge, and is fed by numerous springs and tributaries, running in a general southerly direction, until it empties into the Cache La Poudre River. The old overland road from Denver to California ascended this river and creek until it struck the head- waters of the Laramie. Leaving Dale Creek bridge, the road soon turns to the right, and before you, on the left, is spread out, like a magnificent panorama, The Great Laramie Plains. These plains have an average width of 40 miles, and are 100 miles in length. They begin at the western base of the Black Hills and extend to the slope of the Medicine Bow Mountains, and north beyond where the Laramie River cuts its way through these hills to join its waters with the North Platte. They comprise an area of over two and a half millions of acres, and are regarded as one of the richest grazing por- tions of country. Across these plains, and a little to the left, as you begin to glide over them, rises in full view the Diamond Peaks of the Medicine Bow Range. They are trim and clear- cut cones, with sharp pointed summits a fact which has given them their name, while their sides, and the rugged hills around them, are cov- ered with timber. Still farther in the shadowy distance, in a south-westerly direction, if the atmosphere is clear, you will see the white sum- mits of the Snowy Range white with their robes of perpetual snow. Even in the hottest weather experienced on these plains, it makes one feel chilly to look at them, they are so coid, cheerless and forbidding. In the hills we have just passed, there is an abundance of game, such as mountain sheep, bear, antelope, and an occasional mountain lion, while Dale Creek and all the little brooks which flow into the South Platte River are filled with trout. The speckled beauties are not found however, in the streams which flow into the North Platte. This is a well-established fact, and we have yet failed to discover any satisfac- tory reason for it, though some of these brooks, flowing in opposite directions, head not more than fifty yards apart Sk-iiU JKoc/fs. These rocks, found near Dale Creek, are excellent samples of the granite rocks which are so abundant in this section, and show how they bear the effects of the severe weather. All the massive rocks, which, like the ruins of old castles, are scattered all over the Black Hills, were once angular in form, and square masses, which in time have been worn to their present forms by the disintegrating effects of the atmos- phere. Tie-Siding, 555.2 miles from Omaha; ele- vation, 7,985 feet. This is a telegraph station, A well-worn and much traveled road leads hence across the prairies southward to the mountains of Diamond Peaks, in the neigh- borhood of which are obtained ties, fence- poles and wood. There are a few houses, and the inevitable saloon houses occupied most- ly by woodchoppers and teamsters while the saloons generally take the most of their money. A short distance from this station two soldiers of an Iowa cavalry regiment were killed by In- dians at the overland stage station, in lSft.1. The pine board and mound which marks their lesting- place will soon disappear, and there will be noth- 83 ing left to mark the spot where they fell. Near !Tie-Siding are extensive ranches occupied by sheep during the summer. The general direction >of the traveler is now north. In fact, after leav- ing Dale Creek bridge, you turn towards the north, and continue in that direction, sometimes even making a little east, until you pass Rock Creek Station, a distance of about seventy miles by rail. We have now fairly entered upon the ijreat Laramie Plains. The next station is Htirney, simply a side track, 559.3 miles from the eastern terminus, with an elevation of 7,857 feet. We are going down grade now pretty East. The old stage road can be seen to the left, and the higher mountains of the Medicine Bow Range shut in the western view. Red Jiitttes, near the base of the western slope of the Black Hills is 563.8 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 7,336 feet. So-called from she reddish color of the Buttes between Harney and this place, on the right side of the track. This red appearance of the soil on both hill and plain, indicates the presence of iron. It would jeem that at some remote period the whole valley was on a level with the top of these Buttes, and ihey, composed of harder and more cohesive sub- stance than the soil around, have withstood the Irain and wash of ages, while it has settled iway. They are of all sorts of shapes. The icarest about half a mile from the track, and ex- ;ite no little interest from their peculiar forms, in the mind of the traveler who is at all curious >n such subjects ; some of them are isolated, ind then again you will see them in groups. There are quite a number in sight from the car windows, and then close inspection would war- rant the tourist in stopping at Laramie and making them and other objects in the vicinity a visit. Red Buttes is a telegraph station, with a few settlers in the neighborhood. These plains have been called the paradise for sheep ; but of this subject we will speak in another place. Fort Snutlci's, 570.3 miles from Omaha; jlevation 7,163 feet. This is a station for the military post which was established here in June, 1866, by Col. H. M. Mizner of the 18th United States Infantry. Its buildings for both officers and men are mainly of logs, and many of them are both substantial and comfortable. The post 3an be seen from a long distance in every direction ; is close to the track and on the old military road leading across the Black Hills by way of Cheyenne Pass to Fort Walbach at the eastern base of the hills, now abandoned, and to the military posts near Cheyenne. It will prob- ably be abandoned in a short time. Lfirainie is 572.8 miles from Omaha, and 7,123 feet above the sea. It is the end of a divi- sion of the Union Pacific Railroad, one of the largest towns on the road, lias large machine and repair shops, and is likely to become the largest city on the road in Wyoming. It b located on 84 the Laramie Eiver, in the midst of the Laramie Plains, has fully 3,000 people, is the county- seat of Albany County, has numerous churches and schools, several public buildings, brick and stone blocks, with streets regularly laid out at right angles to the railroad; is well watered from one of the mountain streams in the vicin- ity, and altogether is one of the most promis- ing towns on the line of the road. It is called the " Gem City of the Mountains," and its alti- tude and close proximity to the hills behind it give it a fair show for the name. The rolling mills of the company, giving employment to from 200 to 300 men, are located and in opera- tion here, in the northern limits of the city. The water-power in the Laramie River will also sooa be utilized in the erection of woolen mills and factories for refining soda and other min- erals with which this country abounds. The mineral resources of Wyoming have not been developed. The slight explorations which have thus far been made only demonstrate the fact of their existence in untold quantities. Lara- mie, for instance, has within a radius of thirty miles the following named minerals : Antimony, cinnabar, gold, silver, copper, lead, plumbago, iron, red hematite iron, brown hematite, specu- lar iron, sulphate of soda, gypsum, kaolin or porcelain clay, fire clay, brick clay, coal, sand, limestone, fine quality ; sandstone for building purposes within two miles of the city, and good wagon roads to all the places where these ma- terials are found. Sheep Raising. We have before remarked that the Laramie Plains are a paradise for sheep. But the sheep require hay and shelter in order to be successfully carried through the storms of winter. It is also true that this hay may not be needed, or but a little of it used, but every preparation for safety requires that it should be on hand to be used if necessary. The winter is rare indeed, in this locality, that makes twenty successive days' feeding a necessity. Usually the storms last two or three days, per- haps not as long, when hay and shelter are required. The climate is healthy, and seems especially adapted to sheep. If brought here in a sound and healthy condition, they will re- main so with ordinary care, and the climate alone has been effectual in curing some of the diseases to which they are subject. Among the shepherd kings of the plains may be mentioned the firms of Hutton, Alsop & Co., King & Lane, Rumsey & Co., T. J. Fisher & Co., and others. The firm first named have about 15,000 in their flock, and have accommodations at their differ- ent ranches for 20,000 sheep. They place this number as the limit of their flock. Their home ranch is on the Laramie River, about fifteen miles from the city, and is worthy of a visit from any traveler who desires information on the subject. Their sheep are divided into flocks of about 2,500 each; this number is all that can be well cared for in a flock. One man, a pony, and one or two good shep- herd dogs are all that are necessary to care for a flock, though some flocks are cared for without the pony or dogs. Mexican herders or shepherds are considered the best, and usually cost about $25 per month and board. They have long been accus- tomed to the business in New Mexico, and the most of them don't know enough to do anything else. The wool of graded sheep will usually more than pay all the expenses of the flock, leaving the increase as clear profit, and the increase depends to a large extent on how well tiie flock is managed it is ordinarily eighty per cent. Some have had an increase of tilMr flocks as large as ninety per cent., others as low as sixty per cent. Some of the successful sheep men have begun their flocks with Spanish Merinos, others with French Merinos, others with Cotswolds, and others still with Mexican sheep. These last are very hardy, have small bodies and coarse wool. The ewes are usually good mothers, and all of them will hunt and dig through the snow for grass, while other breeds would not. Mexican sheep will live and thrive where tenderly raised Eastern sheep will die. They are cheap and easily graded up. On the other hand, when once acclimated, graded sheep cost no more care than others, and their wool will bring double the price in the mar- ket. Each class of sheep has its advocates on these plains, and each class has been suc- cessful. The climate of the country, and the peculiar adaptation of the plains for grazing of this natiire, makes success more certain than in similar attempts farther east; hence we predict for this part of the country a vast wealth in flocks of sheep at no distant date. Stock Statistics. The total number of stock grazing on the plains of Laramie County at last estimate (1880) was as follows: Sheep, 120,000 head, worth 83, value, 360,000 ; horned cattle, 110,000 head, worth 820, value 82,200,000; horses and mules, 4,200 head, worth 850, value, 8210,000. Total, 82,770,000. Karl if Times. In April, 18G8, the first town lots in Laramie were sold by the railroad com- pany. There was a great rush for town lots excitement ran very high, and the history of Cheyenne in this respect, where men made for- tunes in a day, was repeated here. In fact, a month or two prior to the beginning of the sale, the town site was covered with Avagons, tents, dugouts, etc., of parties waiting for the day of sale. With that sale, the set- tlement of the town beg: a. The first week there were over four hundred lots sold, and building began rapidly. In less than two weekfl 85 something over 500 buildings and structures of Bom'ri kind had been erected. This was an ex- ample of western growth that would astonish the slow-going denizens of the Atlantic States. It is true these structures were of a peculiar character, and such as were usually found in the towns for the time being made the business terminus of the road. Some were of logs, some of cross-ties, others were simply four posts set in the ground with can- vas sides and roofs. Others still were made of boards, in sections, and easy to be moved when the next terminus should be made known. The iron rails that were soon to bear the iron horse were laid past the town on the 9th day of May, 1868, and on the day following, the first train arrived and discharged its freight. Lara- mie maintained the character of all these west- whp were respectable, and who desired to do a legitimate business could not endure for long time, the presence and rascalities of these border characters. There being no law in force, the next best thing was a resort to "lynch law." This was the experience of Laramie. Laramie is now an orderly, well-governed city, where the rights of person and property are re- spected, and forcibly reminds one of the quiet towns in the East. All saloons and other places of like character, are closed on the Sabbath, the churches are well attended, and the schools are lib- erally patronized. It is one of the most attrac- tive towns on the line of the Union Pacific road, and offers many advantages to those who desire, for any reason, a change of location. In addition to other public institutions else- EARLY MORNING SCENE ON THE LARAMIE PLAINS. ern towu in the early days of their settlement. The same class of human beings that had popu- lated and depopulated North Platte, Julesburg, Cheyenne, and other places, lived and nourished here until the next move was made. They were gamblers, thieves, prostitutes, murderers bad men and women of every calling and description under the heavens, and from almost every nation- ality on the globe and when they could prey upon no one else, would, as a matter of course, prey upon each other. The worst that has ever been written of these characters does not depict the whole truth ; they were, in many cases, out- laws from the East fled to escape the conse- quences of crimes committed there, and each man was a law unto himself. Armed to the very ^eth, it was simply a word and a shot, and many tim a ,s the shot came first. Of course those where mentioned, Laramie has the location of the territorial penitentiary, a small wing of which is already constructed, and which is plainly visible only a short distance west of the railroad track. A good hotel is kept at the old depot. For years it was a regular dining station, and is still one of the most important and interesting places on the Omatia route, but the dining station has recently been trans- ferred to Rock Creek, fifty-two miles farther west, the better to accommodate the hour of din- ing to the wants of travelers. With a manu- factory for soda, and the mines of this article properly developed, Laramie will sup- ply the world with soda enough to raise not only biscuits and bread, but no small sum of money as a return for the investment. The rolling mills and machine and repair shops of 86 the company are sources of perpetual trade and income, and must of necessity increase with the annually increasing business of the company. A visit to the soda lakes, gold mines, Iron Mount- ain, Red Buttes and other places of interest in the vicinity, together with good hotel accommo- dations, will sure- ly lure the trav- eler to spend a lew days in this " Gem city of the Mountains." L a r a m i e Peak. This is the highest peak of the Black Hills Range in Wyom- ing and Colorado, north of Long's Peak, and is about 10,000 feet high. The Hayden ex- ploring party, who were en- camped at its base, describe wit- nessing a sunset see n.e of rare beauty. The sun passed down di- rectly behind the summit of Lara- mie Peak. The whole range of mountains was gilded with a golden light, and the haziness of the atmosphere gave to the whole scene a deeper beauty. The valleys at the base of the Cotton- wood and Lararnie Rivers are full of pleasant little streams and grassy plains. Sometimes these i valleys expand out into beautiful oval park-like areas, which are favorite resorts of wild game, and would be exceedingly desirable for settlements. Emigrants would find here beautiful scenery, pure air and water, and a mild and extremely healthy climate. Cereals and roots could be easily raised, and stock-raising could be made a source of wealth to them and the whole community. The Windmills of the Union Pacific HUNTING IN THE BOCKY MOUNTAINS. Railway. The traveler notices with interest the ever frequent windmills which appear at every station, and are such prominent objects over the broad prairies. They are used for sup- plying the locomotives and station houses with water. Probably no finer specimens exist in tho United States than are found on the lines of this road. In these tanks is a large hollow globe floating in the water. These globes are so con- nected with lev- ers that when the water has reached a certain height, the slats or fans are thrown in line with the wind, and the machine stops. As the water is drawn off for sup- plying the locomo- tives, the ball falls, and the machine is again put in mo- tion. They are thus self-regula- ting and self-act- ing. The water is thrown up by a forcing pump. A curious fact may be here mention- ed. These tanks, when closely cov- ered, have thus far proved that there is enough caloric in the water to prevent it from freezing. ll'ind River Mo u n tains. These mountains, seen on the map and just north of the railroad, are destined soon to celebrity, for their mining value, al- though as yet but partially explored. Two well-known peaks rise among them, Fre- mont's Peak and Snow's Peak, the latter being the highest; its elevation is given by Fremont as 13,570 feet. The mountains are filled with a dense growth of a species of the nut pine, which fur- nishes food for innumerable birds and squirrels, and supplies the Indians with their favorite food. Indian Burial Tree. Among the Indian tribes there are quite a number whose custom is to honor their dead with burial places in the tops of favored trees. The Comanches, Apaches, Cheyennes, Arrapahoes and Kiowas all do this. After an Indian is dead, his corpse is securely wrapped like a mummy ; with it are put food, arms, tobacco, etc., which its spirit is supposed to want in his trip to the happy hunting-ground, and the whole covered with an outer covering made of willows. All the Indians of the tribe celebrate mourning both before and after this is done ; then the body is placed upon a platform, constructed in some old tree, usually a large cot- ton-wood. The feet of the departed Indian are turned with care to the southward, for thither resides the Great Spirit, so the Indians say and thither he is going. In some of their favor- Wyoming. They are really the first range of the Rockies. They begin at the valley of the North Platte River, directly south ot Fort Fet- terman, and unite with the Medicine Bow Range in northern Colorado, south-west from Sherman. Laramie Peak and Reed's Peak, north oi the Laramie Canon, are the highest peaks in this range. The waters which flow from them east 3i the Black Hills, and those which flow west from the Medicine Bow Range, all unite in the North Platte River, which describes a half circle around their northern extremity, and then flows east- ward to the Missouri River. This range of mountains, as before stated, is crossed at Sher- man. They have not been prospected to any great extent for the precious metals, but gold, silver, copper, iron and other minerals are known to exist. Iron is found in large quantities. INDIAN BURIAL TREE, NEAR FORT LARAMIE. ite groves, as many as eight or ten bodies have been found in a single tree. Another mode of burial is to erect a scaffold on some prominent knoll or bluff. These customs are prevalent among those Indian tribes which are most rov- ing, and live in the saddle. " Foot Indians," those which inhabit the plains, and are peaceable, most invariably bury their dead in the ground always, however, accompanied with such good things as he will need in his trips thereafter in the new hunting-grounds. The Black Hills of Wyoming, and the Medicine Bow Range. In going west, the first range of real mountains the traveler meets with are what are called the Black Hills of About 18 miles north-east from Laramie is Iron Mountain, on the head of Chugwater Creek. It is said to be nearly pure, and will some day be developed. There has been talk of a railroad from Cheyenne with a branch to this mountain, but nothing has been done yet. In searching for a route for the Union Pacific Railway, a survey of the Laramie Canon was made, but it was found to be impracticable for a* railroad. It, however, has grand scenery, and will become a place of resort, by tourists, as soon as the In- dian question is settled. The Black Hills virtu- ally connect with the Medicine Bow Range at both extremities, bearing to the left around tho Circle of the North Platte, and to the right south MEDICINE BOW MOUNTAINS, of -Sherman. The canons of both the Laramie and Platte Rivers are rugged and grand. Lara- mie Peak has an elevation of 10,000 feet, and lies in plain view off to the right from Lookout to Medicine Bow Stations. Crossing the Black Hills, the road strikes the Laranri^ Plains, and then the Medicine Bow Rahge rises grandly before you. At Laramie City the road running north you look west and behold Sheep Mountain in front, whose sum- mit is 10,000 feet above the sea ; to the left of this is Mt. Agassiz, so named in honor of the distinguished scientist who gave his life to the cause he loved so well. To th^ right of Sheep FROM MEDICINE BOW KIVEB. Mountain, which is in the Medicine Bow Range, you discover what seems to be a large depression in the mountains. This is where the Little Lara- mie River heads, and across it, to the right, still other peaks of this range lift their snowy heads. The range is now on your left until you pass around its northern bend and into the North Platte Valley again at Fort Steele. On the northern extremity, Elk Mountain looms up, the best view of which can be obtained as you pass from Medicine Bow Station to Fort Steele, pro- vided, of course, you look when the foot hills do not obscure your vision. The Medicine Bow Range is also full of the precious metals, mostly 89 gold, but has not been developed. This range is also heavily timbered, and abounds in game, and, except the highest peaks, is free from snow in the summer. The timber is mostly pine, and immense quantities are annually cut for railroad ties, telegraph and fence poles and wood. Nearly every ranch on the Laramie Plains is supplied with poles for corrals, shecls and fences from the Black Hills or Medicine Bow Bange. The Lara- mie Plains is the great basin between these two ranges, and the road has to pass north- ward a long distance in order to find its way out. The only marble yet discovered in the Western country ot real value, so far as we know, is the deposit owned by the Wyoming Marble Company, and located twenty-five miles north of Laramie City, twelve miles from the line of the Union Pacific Bailway. The ledge is eighty feet wide, has been traced for ten miles on its surface, and prospected to a depth of one hundred feet without reaching bot- tom. Leaving the grand views of these mountains, the traveler enters upon a vast, dreary and unproductive waste fitly called a desert. Still its rough and broken ap- pearance, with rocks, hills, and mountains on either side, affords a strange and pleasant relief from the dull monotony of the eastern plains. Leaving Laramie City, the track passes close to the company's rolling mills. We soon cross the Laramie River on a wooden truss bridge, ; ,nd run along near its banks to Ho well, which is a side track, eight miles from Laramie, and 580.8 miles from Omaha; elevation, 7,090 feet. Passing over the plains, walled in by mountains on either side, we reach the next station, Wyoming, over fifteen miles from Laramie, and 588.4 miles from Omaha; elevation, 7,068 feet. Having reached the highest altitude on the line of the road between the two oceans, at Sherman, you see we are now going down hill a little, and from this time until we cross the Sierras, there will be a constant succession of " ups and downs " in our journey. Wyoming is on the Little Laramie River, which empties into the Laramie River near the station. It is a tele- graph station with a few houses in the vicinity in the midst of a fine grazing country, with sheep and cattle ranches in sight. Leaving Wyoming, the aspect of the country soon changes. A bluff on the right lies near the track, the country becomes more undulating as we pass on, and the grass seems to grow thinner except on the bottom near the stream. Sage brush and greasewood, well known to all frontier men, begin to appear. We have seen a little ot sage brush before in the vicinity of Julesburg, aud Sidney, and now strike it again. Cooper's Lake, 598.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 7,044 feet It is a telegraph station with the usual side track and section- houses. The station is named from the little lake near by, which can best be seen from the cars at the water tank, beyond the station. It isn't much of a *ake, nor can much of it be seep from the car windows. The water is said to look very green in the summer, and to differ but little in appearance from the green grass which surrounds it. The lake itself is about half a mile wide, and a mile and a half long, and about two miles from the track, though it does not seem half that distance. It is fed by Cooper and Dutton Creeks, but has no visible outlet. Lookout, 607.6 miles from Omaha, and about thirty-five miies irom Laramie ; elevation, 7,169 feet. The road left what may be called the Laramie bottom at the last station, and now winds through a rolling country, which soon be- comes rough and broken, with the sage brush constantly increasing. Notice the changes in the elevation as you pass along:. Miser, 615.9 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,810 feet. Near here coal has been found. It is in the vicinity of Rock Creek, which is said to be the eastern rim of the coal fields discovered on this elevated plateau, in the mid- dle of the Continent. From the last station to this, and beyond, you have fine and con- stantly changing views from the moving train, of Laramie Peak, away off to the right, and of Elk Mountain to the left. Sage brush is the only natural production of the soil in this region, and is said to be eaten by antelope and elk in the absence of grass or anything better. It is also said that sheep will feed upon it, and that wherever antelope live and flourish, sheep will do likewise. Rock Creek, so-called from a creek of the same name, which the road here crosses ; 624.6 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6.690 feet. This is a regular eating station, instead of Laramie. The dining-room is beautifully decorated with flowers, vines and horns of game, a pretty Bay window with blooming flowers and walls covered with vines, and the display of hanging baskets. Rock Creek rises in the northeastern peaks of the Medicine Bow Range, and runs in that direction to this station, near which it turns toward the west, and unites with Medicine Bow River, near Medicine Bow Station. Stages depart from Rock Creek daily for Forts Fetterman, McKinney, Custer, Keogh, and all points in the Big Horn and Yellowstone regions. IVilcox. A side track for the passing of trains, 632.3 miles from Omaha, and 7,033 feet above the sea. The next station is Aurora. This station was formerly named Como, after Lake Como, which the rail- 90 road here passes. One peculiarity of this lake is that it is near Rock Creek separated from it by a ridge of hills estimated at 200 feet high, with no visible outlet. The station is (540.2 miles from Omaha, and 6,680 feet above the sea. The lake has been estimated to be 200 feet above the surface of Rock Creek, from which it is separated as above stated. It is fed by warm springs, which also supply the water tank of the company at the station. In a cold day the steam from these springs can be seen at some distance. It is also a great resort for ducks, and sportsmen can obtain fine shooting here in the proper season. If lizards are fish with legs, then we have fish with legs abounding in this lake and vicinity. These animals are from 6 to 18 inches in length, with a head a good deal like that of a frog, and tufts or tassels where the gills would be on a fish. They have four legs and crawl around to a certain extent on the land. There are two kinds of these lizards, one differ- ing from the other in size and color more than in shape, and either kind are devoured by the ducks when they can be caught. The lake is about one mile wide in the widest place, and two and a half miles long. VaUey of the Chngwater. The Chug- water Valley is about 100 miles long. It has been for many years a favorite locality for winter- ing stock, not only on account of the excellence of the grass and water, but also from the fact that the climate is mild throughout the winter. Cat- tle and horses thrive well all winter without hay or shelter. The broad valley is protected from strong cold winds by high walls or bluffs. The soil everywhere is fertile, and wherever the sur- face can be irrigated, good crops 01 all kinds of cereals and hardy vegetables can be raised with- out difficulty. In this valley and near the source of the Chugwater, are thousands of tons of iron ore, indicating deposits of vast extent and rich- ness, which can be made easily accessible when- ever desirable to construct a railroad to Mon- tana. Medicine Bow is 647.3 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,550 feet. The river, from which the station is named, was crossed a short distance before we reached the station. It rises directly south, in the Medicine Bow Mountains, and runs nearly north to the place where it is crossed by the railroad, after which it turns toward the west and unites with the North Platte, below Fort Steele. There is a roundhouse of five stalls, in which engines are kept to assist trains up and down the steep grades between here and Carbon. It was, until recently, the point from which a large quantity of military supplies for Fort Fetter- man and other posts was distributed, but the transfer now takes place mainly at Bock Creek. There are one or two stores, with the inevitable saloon and several dwellings, in the vicinity. There is a good wagon road from this place to Fort Fetterman, distance ninety miles, and it is by far the nearest route to the gold fields in the Black Hills of Dakota, for passengers and miners from the West. The Indians were disinclined to leave this region and even now hardly know how to give it up. In the summer of 1875, they came here and stole a herd of between three and four hundred horses that were grazing on Rock Creek, it. Don't they kill and scalp a wfn'te man, when'ar they get the better on him ? The mean varmints, they'll never behave themselves until ^ou give 'um a clean out and out licking. They can't onderstand white folks' ways, and they won't learn 'um, and ef you treat 'um decently, they think you're afeard. You may depend on't, Cap., the only way to treat Indians, is to thrash them well at first. Medicine Bow is in the midst of a rough, broken country, over v;hich millions of antelope and jack rabbits roam at pleasure. When the road was built here immense quantities of ties and wood were cut in the mountains south, and delivered at this place. Curiosities of Indian Life and Char- acter. The entire country, from North Platte over as far as the western border of Laramie Plains, has been for years the roving ground of the Indians, of whom we could tell many inter- esting facts respecting their life and the curious interviews the overland scouts, trappers, etc., have had with them. To a man, every scout will unite in denunciation of their treachery. Jim Baker, an old Rocky Mountain trapper, once told, in his characteristic manner the following, to General Marcy : " They are the most onsartainest varmints in all creation, and I reckon thar not nior'n half human ; for you never seed a human, arter you'd fed and treated him to the best fixins in your lodge, just turn round and steal all your horses, or anything he could lay his hand on. " No, not adzackly ! he. would feel kinder grate- ful, and ask you to spread a blanket in his lodge if ever you passed that way. But the Indian, he don't care shucks for you, and is ready to do you a heap of mischief as soon as he quits your feed. No, Cap'," he continued, "it's not the right way to give 'um presents to buy peace ; but ef I was governor of these yeer United States, I'll tell you what I'd do. I'd invite 'um all to a big feast, and make believe I wanted to have a big talk, and as soon as I got 'um all together, I'd pitch in and scalp half of 'um, and then t'other half would be mighty glad to make a peace that would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with the dog-ond, red-bellied varmints ; and, as sure as you're born, Cap., that's the only way. " It ain' no use to talk about honor with them, Cap. ; they hain't got no such thing in 'um ; and they won't show fair fight, any way you can fix 01 Indian observations on the character of the American and English people, are often pretty good. An Indian once describing to an English- man the characteristics of the different people he knew, said as follows, most naively : " King George man, ( English ) very good ; Boston man, (American) good ; John Chinaman, not good ; but the black man, he no better than a dog." They are particularly curious about negroes, aa they do not feel certain whether the black goes all through. Some years ago, a party of negroes escaping from Texas, were captured by some of the Comanches, who scraped their skiri to settle this question. Carbon, 6f>(i.5 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,750 feet. A station of great prominence for coal mining. Population 700. This is the first station on the line of the road, where the company obtains a supply of coal. A shaft about 120 feet deep has been sunk, and veins of coal opened about six feet thick. The coal is hoisted to the surface by means of a stationary engine, and dumped into cars by means of chutes, or into large bins from which it is taken to supply passing engines. From 50 to 150 me^i are employed in these mines, and a good many of them live in board shanties, adobe houses, and dug-outs along the side of the track. The coal is mostly used by the company but little being sold as it is not as good for domestic purposes as the coal found at Rock Springs. Leaving Car- bon we pass through a rugged country, with scenery sufficiently attractive to keep the traveler on the constant lookout, to Simpson, a side track, with section-house, 663.5 miles from Omaha, and an elevation of 6,898 feet. Passenger trains do not stop and on we goto Percy, 668.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,950 feet above the sea. From Simpson to this sta- tion, you can obtain the finest view of Elk Mountain on the left. We have not been able to ascertain its elevation, but its comparative short distance from the road causes it to look high and grand. It can be seen from a long dis- tance, either east or west, and is the noted peak of the Medicine Bow Range. It seems to jut out from the main ridge, and looking from the west, stands in bold relief against the sky. The station is named in honor of Colonel Percy, who was killed here by the Sioux Indians, when the road was being sur- veyed. At this station passengers who desire to visit Elk Mountain, and the region in its im- mediate vicinity will leave the cars. "During the construction of the road large quantities of wood and ties with timber for bridges, were cut in the mountains and foot hills, and hauled to this station. At the foot of Elk Mountain stood Fort Halleck now abandoned, and a station of the Overland Stage Company. There were many skirmishes with the Indians in this vicinity in those days, and now and then you will be able to find an old settler who will entertain you for hours, in the recital of wild adventures and hair- breadth escapes. A visit to the site of the old fort and the region of country around, together with a close view of the grand scenery of the mountains, will amply repay the traveler for his time and money. About four miles south of Percy, fine veins of coal were discovered in 1875, but they have not been opened or tested. One is nine and the other over twenty feet in thick- ness. Notice a suggestive sign as you pass the station. It is " Bowles's Hotel," and of course, indicates that everything is perfectly " straight " within. South of this station there is some very fine grazing land, mostly in the valleys of the little streams that head in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow westward into the North Platte River, and a considerable quantity of hay is cut during favorable seasons. A Curious and Exciting Race. En- gineers have told of a curious scene on the Pacific Railroad not far from the Laramie Plains, of a race between the locomotive and a herd of deer. At daybreak, the locomotive, with its long train of carriages and freight cars, entered a narrow valley or gorge, where runs quite a rivulet of clear and cold mountain water. On the banks of this stream a large herd of red deer were standing, occasionally lapping the refresh- ing element. The timid creatures, startled by the presence in their midst of the " iron horse," knew not what course to pursue in order to get away from it. The engineer, to add to their evident perplexity, caused the whistle to send forth its loudest and most discordant shriek. This was enough for the deer. To get beyond reach of this new enemy, they started up the road, taking the course the locomotive was pursuing. The race became exciting. It was a superb trial of steam and iron against muscle and lung. The engineer " put on steam," and sent his locomotive with its burdensome train, whirling along the track ; but for many miles six or seven it was estimated the frightened animals kept ahead, fairly beating their antago- nist. At last the pursued and pursuer got into a more open country. This the deer perceiving, they sprang on one side, and, with unabated speed, ran to a safe distance, where beyond reach of locomotive or rifle, they stood and gazed with dilated eyes their limbs trembling from un- usual exertion, and gasping for breath at their fast receding enemy. Dana is the next station simply a side track. It is 674.2 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,875 feet. The rugged, broken character of the country with cuts for the track, and fills in the 92 DEER RACE WITH TRAIN ON THE U. P. R. R. valleys, will interest the observing tourist if he passes by in daylight. Edson 680 miles from Omaha, -with an elevation of 6,751 feet. It is a telegraph sta- tion with accompanying side tack, section-house, etc. From this station to the next, the bluffs are rugged and wild, the road passing through a short tunnel and several deep cuts. There is nothing but the changing scenery as you move along with the train, to relieve this country from its desolate appearance. Sage brush and grease- wood continue to be the only products of the soil. Walcott, a side track 689.5 miles from the Missouri River, and 6,800 feet above the sea. After leaving this station, the road winds around the bluffs, passing through some very deep cuts, near one of which there is a stone quarry from which stone is taken by the company for road purposes at Green River. A side track to the quarry has been laid and stone easily loaded on the flat cars used for their transportation. Siid- denly bursting through one of these cuts we enter the valley of the Platte, through what is called Rattle Snake Pass, by the railroad men, and arrive at Fort Steele, which is 695.3 miles from Omaha, 122.5 miles from Laramie, and has an .elevation of 6,840 feet. It is a telegraph station, and the site of the government post of the same name. We cross North Platte River just before arriving at the station, and are 4,051 feet higher than when we crossed the same stream at North Platte City, near the junction of the two Plattes in the State of Nebraska. Fort Steele was established on the last day of June, 1868, by Col. 1. I. Dodge, then of the Thirtieth United States Infantry. It is considered a good strate- gic point, as well as a convenient base of supplies, in case of a campaign against the Indians. The buildings are mostly of logs, and none of them very comfortable. In 1875, the government fin- ished a fine stone hospital building here. The station also does considerable government busi- ness, and there is a government depot for receiv- ing and storing supplies near the track. The valley of the North Platte at this upper cross- ing is quite narrow, without the broad and fertile bottom-lands we were accustomed to see below as we whirled along its banks. From the head of this river in the North Park of Colorado, to a point as far down as Fort Laramie, its route describes the form of a horseshoe. Its tributa- ries from the east mostly rise in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow westward. They are principally Douglas Creek, Fresh Creek, Brush Creek, Cedar Creek, Spring Creek, and Pass Creek. They are beautiful streams with, fine grass valleys and partially wooded banks. Its tributaries from the west are Beaver Creek, Grand Encampment Creek, Cow Creek, Hot Spring Creek, Jack Creek, and Sage Creek. Hot Spring Creek is so named from the hot sul- phur springs which are found near its mouth. All the streams which rise in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow into the North Platte, show the " color '* of gold where they have been prospected, and some rich diggings are said to have been discovered at the head of Douglas Orcok. We believe it will not be long before the Medicine Bow Mountains will develop into a rich mining 93 country. The waters of the Hot Springs re- ferred to are claimed to possess remarkable me- dicinal virtues, and are from 40 to 45 miles from Fort Steele, up the right bank of the river. The wonders of even tnese desolate plains do not begin to be known, and when they are fully realized, the world will be astonished at the results. About three miles west of Fort Steele is the site of Benton the town that was now wholly abandoned. For a short time it was the business terminus of the road, while its construc- tion was going on, and possessed all the charac- teristics of the railroad towns in those days. At one time it had a population estimated as high as five thousand souls. Old iron barrel hoops, rusty tin cans, a few holes in the ground, a few posts and stumps, and nearly or quite a hundred nameless graves in close proximity, are all that perior satisfaction it would give. The railroad reached and passed Benton in July, 1868. The valley of the N. Platte River begins to be occu- pied by cattle men, as stock can be carried through the severest winters, thus far experienced, without hay. It has superior advantages, not only for grazing, but its numerous "diaws" or ravines afford friendly shelter in case of storms. Vieiv on the North Platte, near Fort Fred Steele. The Platte River here is over 700 miles from its mouth near Omaha, and has an elevation of 6,845 feet. Upon the plains it was a wide, shallow stream, with sand-bars and shift- ing currents. Here it is a deep, clear, cold stream, and but little distant from its source among the perpetual snow banks of the Rocky Mountains. Grenm-ille is the next station, 703.7 miles from Omaha with an elevation of 6,560 feet VIEW OX THE PLATTE, now remain to mark the place where Benton was. It grew in a day, and faded out of sight as quickly. But it was a red-hot town while it lasted. A death, sometimes two or three of them, with corresponding burials, was the morn- ing custom. AVhisky was preferred to water be- cause it was much easier to obtain, and unre- strained by civilized society or wholesome laws, the devil in men and women had full sway, and made free exhibitions of his nature. The town was three miles from the North Platte River, where all the water was obtained and hauled in, price ten cents per bucket, or one dollar per barrel. In that town, a drink of regular old "tangle-foot" whisky, at "two bits" (twenty- five cents) would last a good deal longer than a bucket of water, to say nothing of the su- NEAB FORT FRED STEELE. above the sea. It is simply a side track for the meeting and passing of trains. Passenger trains seldonl stop. The next station and the end of a subdivision of the road is Raivlins, named in honor of Gen. John A. Rawlins, General Grant's chief of staff and his first secretary of war. The springs near here bear the same name, but it has been incorrectly spelled, heretofore. This station is 1:57.9 miles from Laramie, and 710.7 miles from Omaha. It has an elevation of 6,732 feet. We are going up hill again. The town has a population of over 1,500 souls, a large number of whom are railroad employes. The company" has erected a hotel' for the use of its employes and the traveling public, and has a roundhouse and machine-shops which are kept pretty busy in the repair of engines. The water used by engines on this division is strongly impregnated with alkali and other sub-, stances, which form scales on the inside of the boiler and adhere to the flues. The engines are, therefore, carefully watched, and every pre? caution taken to guard against accidents. North of the town is what might be called, in some countries, a mountain. Near the east end of this mountain valuable beds of red hematite iron ore have been found. This ore is very pure, and, when ground, makes a very hard and durable paint It is said to be water and fire-proof when used in sufficient quantities. The dark red freight and flat cars which you see on the line of the road belong^ ing to "the company, have been painted with this material. There are two mills here for the manufacture of this paint. Forty miles due north from Bawlins are the Ferris and Seminole mining districts. South of Bawlins, about sixty miles, in the Snake Biver Begion, are fine grazing fields, already occupied, to a certain extent, by cattle men. A colony of farmers and miners from the vicinity of Den- ver, Col. , have settled in that region, and more are constantly going in. About a mile and a half from Bawlins, east, is a large sulphur spring. This spring is almost unnoticed, be- cause unknown. The springs, frequently al- luded to as Bawlins Springs, are on the left of the track, and a little west of the town. Iron, sulphur and magnesia predominate in these waters, the latter reaching the high tempera- ture of 130 degrees. A few buildings of rather inferior quality have been erected for the accommodation of visitors. Good fishing and hunting are side attractions here. The small creek which passes through the place is known as Separation Creek, and empties into the North Platte Biver north of Fort Steele. There are also immense beds or lakes of soda, tributary to this station, some of which is nearly pure. Bawlins is in the midst of a broken, desolate country, and depends upon railroad importations for nearly everything upon which its people live, though there is a fine country reported both north and south. In addition to the other buildings named, it has the usual quantity of saloons, together with several stores, at which a thriving trade is done. To the Big Horn. At Bawlins you can ordinarily meet several old trappers or scouts who have been in the Big Horn region, and who declare the route from here to be superior to any other. These men have led European hunting parties in that directien, and the English nobility, especially, always come back wildly enthusiastic and glutted with glories of the chase. Aside from the reputation of the Big Horn region as a golden mecca for the miner, we can again say from personal knowl- edge, taat t"io country is prolifu in beautiful and fertile valleys, in vast and unexcelled stock ranges, in magnificent scenery, and is alive with large and small game. Following are distances and camping places on one of the Bawlins routes. The last 125 miles is lined with good camp grounds. MILES. From Rawlins to Brown's Canon 12 Brown's Canon to Seminole 23 Seminole to Sand Creek 10 Sand Creek to Sweetwater Biver 15 ' Sweetwater Kiver (bridged , to Rattlesnake Range. 16 Across Range to Poison Springs Creek 8 Prison Springs Creek to Cloud Peak 126 Total ! 209 Ponies and outfitting goods of all descrip- tions can be purchased at Bawlins, and parties in heed of a good guide should always look up Tom Sun an old hunter and government scout, who knows the country thoroughly, and is just the man to chaperon a hunting or exploring party. His address is Baw?ins. Solon. A side track nearly seven miles from Rawlins, and 716 miles from Omaha; eleva- tion, 6,821 feet. Heavy grades now for quite a distance. Separation. One would naturally suppose from the name, that the waters flowing east and west, divided or separated here, but such is not the fact. It is reported that a party of engineers who were surveying and locating the road, separated here to run different lines hence the name. It is a telegraph station, 724.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,900 feet above the level of the sea. The artesian well at this station, which supplies the water tank is 860 feet deep. The water from these wells is not always pure fre* quently having a brackish or alkali taste. FHlmare, named in honor of a former di- vision superintendent of the road, now in the stock business, with ranche at Wyoming. It is 731.6 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,885 feet. Simply a side track in the midst of a barren, broken country. Cresfon, 738.6 miles from the eastern ter- minus of the road, and 7,030 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, with the usual side tracks and section-house. Three miles farther west, and we reach the summit of the divide which separates the waters of tbe two oceans. This is the crowning ridge in the backbone of the Continent, and a desolate place it is. It is the summit of the Rocky Mountains. " What was this country made for?" We asked a fellow- traveler. "To hold the rest of it together "- was the ready reply. That is good ; the best reason for its existence we've had. It is of some use after all. Allowing 60 feet grade for the three miles west of Creston, to the actual summit of the divide, and we are then 1,122 feet lower than at Sherman. It is true there are no lofty peaks here, with snowy crests the year round, but an immense roll, over which we glide and 95 [never think that we are crossing the summit of the rock-ribbed Rockies. At this divide a short distance north of the track, a pole was once erected with a flag to mark the spot, but it has fallen before the fierce gales which sweep over this elevated ridge, and which seem to have with- ered everything they touched. Standing on the rear platform of the train, looking east you notice the undulations of the road as it passes beneath you ; Elk Mountain of the Medicine Bow Range, and the far distant Black Hills rise grandly in view as you approach the crest, but suddenly you have passed to the other side, and a stretch of country two hundred miles long drops from your view in an instant. On this part of the road the most difficulty with snow is usually experienced in the winter. There is a constant breeze here, and frequent storms, though a few miles farther it may be clear and pleasant. In the great snow blockade of the winter of 1871-2, the telegraph poles were frequently buried in the drifts. The Western Union Company had their wires ele- vated on poles planted in the snow in several places, to keep them above the drifts. In that blockade, the worst ever known since the road was built, there were seventeen days without trains. Since then the track has been raised, snow fences planted, sheds erected and every pos- sible appliance used to insure the safe and speedy passage of trains. Looking again to the north you can see the snowy heads of the Wind River Mountains, with the peak named after Fremont, the gallant Path-finder of the West, towering against the sky. Notice the dark shades of the timber lines as they press against the eternal snows with which they are covered. Looking forward to the west, if you have a chance, Pilot Butte, north of Rock Springs, one of the great landmarks of the plains, is clearly visible. To the south you behold the mountains where the tributaries of the Snake River rise, and whence they flow into the Pacific Ocean. No- tice on north sign-board, "CONTINENTAL DIVIDE." Latham,, 746.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,900 feet above the sea. Passenger trains do not stop as it is only a side track. On we go to Washakie, so called after a Shoshone chief, reputed to be friendly to the whites, whose tribe fights the Sioux when there is opportunity. Here is an artesian well, 638 feet deep, flowing 800 gallons per hour. Red Desert. The country near is reddish in appearance, but the place is named after the Red Desert, near which is an immense basin of its own, similar to the Salt Lake basin. It lies 500 feet below the level of the country, has no outlet, and extends from the South Pass on the north, to Bridger's Pass on the south, and east from summit of the divide to Tipton on the west, a very singular depression right on the divide of the Continent. The little stream just seen before reaching this place, flows south and is lost in this basin. The country near is alkali, and subject to high water and heavy rains, giving great diffi- culty to preserve the security of road-bed and track. Station is 763 miles from Omaha; ele- vation 6,710 feet. Tipton, a side track for meeting and pass- ing trains. It is 769.6 miles from the " Big Muddy," with an elevation of 6,800 feet. We have been going up hill again leaving the val- ley of the Snake River. The snows of winter leave heavy drifts along here, but the railroad men have learned by experience how to manage them quite successfully. When the drifts have reached the top of the fences in height, they go along and raise the fences to the top of the drifts, fastening them as best they can in the snow. This they repeat as often as necessary, and thus, the snow, in many instances, is kept away from the track, but the drifts become pretty high. Table Rock, named from a rock resembling a table south of, and about six miles from the station. It is 776.3 miles from Omaha, and 6,890 feet above the sea is a telegraph station. There is a \)ng, evenly cut bluff south of the track, estimated to be 600 feet in height. On what appears to be the north-west corner of this bluff a square, table-like, projection rises the table and presents a very odd appearance. It can be seen for quite a distance, as you look to the left from the cars. The table projects about 60 feet above the bluffs adjoining, though it does not seem half that distance. Next we come to Monell 781.3 miles from Omaha, and 6,785 feet above the sea. South of this station, and to a certain extent, in its immediate vicinity, . moss agates are found. The stones, however, are not clear and well-defined. They are smoky and dark, rendering them nearly valueless. Monell is only a side track where trains seldom stop. Down the grade we pass to Hitter Creek, a telegraph station, 786.3 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,685 feet. At this station, we first strike the well- known Bitter Creek Valley, through which we shall pass to Green River. About four miles below this station, on the south side of the track, the old overland stage and emigrant road struck the valley, as it came in from Bridger's Pass, and across the Snake River Valley. The railroad reaches Bitter Creek through a " draw " or dry ravine which unites with the valley proper, at the station. The old stage-road struck the creek farther south, and before it reaches the railroad. This was formerly quite a station, and the end of a passenger division. It has a small round- house, with ten stalls and turn-table, upon which the engines and snow-plows are turned. Between this station and Rawlins, as has been observed, are very heavy grades, requiring two engines to pull a train. These extra engines come with trains as far as this station, and then assist east- ward bound trains back again. A large quan- SCENES ON GREEN RIVER. 1 Flaming Gorge. 2 Brown > Hole. 3. Looking np tlio Vn11oy of Green Uiver. 97 tity of bridge timber is also kept, here, ready for any emergency. In the great washout at the foot of this valley, in the spring of 1875, large quantities were used. Bitter Creek is rightly named. Its waters are so strongly impregnated with alkali that they are almost useless. Nevertheless, at the head of this creek, where it is fed by cold, clear springs, lor more than ten miles from the station, trout have been caught, though they are small. The rugged scenery along this valley will interest the traveler, as the views are constantly changing. There are no machine- shops for repairs here, only the five-stall roundhouse. The creek has been dammed for the purpose of supplying the water tank, though the water is not the best for boil- ers. The whole region of country, from a point east, as far as Rock Creek to Green River, is underlaid with coal. It frequently crops out in this valley. The coal is lignite and will not " coke " like the bituminous coal. There are also indications of iron and other minerals, in the immediate vicin- ity of the valley. Occasionally, you will see little shrub pines on the bluffs but no timber. These pines have tried to grow, but the sterility of the soil is against them. They find it almost impossible to " take root." Sometimes it seems, as you pass down the valley and look ahead, as though the train was going square against the rocks, arid would be dashed in pieces; but i sudden curve, and you have rounded the projecting bluffs, and are safely pursuing your journey. Again, it seems as though the bluffs were trying to shake hands across the chasm, or making an effort to become dovetailed together. They assume all sorts of shapes, washed out in places by the storms of ages smoothly carved as if by the hand of the sculptor and again, ragged and grotesque. The geology of the Bitter Creek and Green River Valleys, will afford a chapter of curious interest, and will amply reward him who searches thoroughly after the knowledge. Professor Hayden and Major Powell have the best reports .on the forma- tion and geology of this region. Black Bntfes is the next station, 795.4 miles from Omaha, and 6,600 feet above ihe sea. It is a telegraph station with accompanying side tracks. Formerly there was a coal mine worked here, said to be- long to Jack Morrow, now of Omaha, and quite a noted frontier character - in his day. It furnishes excellent coal, easily ac- cessible, the vein being from six to eight feet thick. As you approach the station, notice the balanced rock north of the road and within 50 feet of the side track. The buttes from which the station is named are south of the creek, and plainly visible. Hattville, named after a noted contractor who graded the road through this part of the valley. A few posts and adobe walls are all that remain of the camp. It is simply a side track, 800.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,590 feet. Point of Rocks is a station with a his- tory. It was formerly quite a town, but its glory has departed with the causes which brought it into existence. It was formerly the point of departure and the outfitting place for the Sweetwater Gold District, South Pass City, Atlantic City, Camp Stambaugh,, and other places in the region of the' Great South Pass at the foot of Wind River Mountains, and is the nearest railroad point to those places, to-day, with a good wagon road not much traveled. Distance to South Pass City, 65 miles. The rocks from which this place is named are on a high point south of the track, and a little east of the station. They seem in the distance like faint outlines of huge perpendicular columns, not very high, but really 365 feet perpendicular above their base surroundings. Their summit is about 1,100 feet above the track. At the base of the rocks proper, and about 735 feet above the track, seven sulphur springs break out, three of which are large ones, the balance being small. North of the track, and three-fourths of a mile west of the station, is an iron spring, reputed to possess remarkable medicinal qual- ities, several invalids, especially females, hav- ing been highly benefited by drinking and bathing in its waters. Four miles north of the station is a huge sulphur spring, with water pouring forth from the ground: The artesian well, which supplies the watei tank here, is 700 feet deep. Water is pumped out by steam power. Wells & Fargo's Over- land Express Company had a station here, and their old adobe buildings, rapidly going into decay, may still be seen across the creek, at the base of the bluffs. In the " piping " times of the town several build- ings were commenced, but the collapse was so sudden that they were never completed. This station is 806.7 miles from Omaha, and 6,490 feet above the sea. It is now a place of large coal interests, over one hundred car loads per day being shipped. There is also an artesian well one thousand and fif- teen feet deep. Thayer, simply a side track, 812 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,425 feet. The moving trains will give the tourist an ever-varying view of the grand and beau- tiful scenery of this valley. . Salt Wells, 818.2 miles from the eastern 98 terminus of the road, and 6,360 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, and in the construction period of the road, was a place where considerable timber, wood, etc., was delivered. The water from the well here has a saltish, alkaline taste, hence the name. Three and one-half miles, north, there is a salt or alkali basin, which has no visible outlet in which the brackish waters stand the most of the year. Baxter, 826.2 miles from Omaha; eleva- its entire line. Rock Springs coal for domestic purposes is only surpassed by anthracite. It has but little of the sulphurous smell of other soft coal, burns into ashes without clinkers, and without the black soot which characterizes other coal. These mines, with others, were formerly operated by the Wyoming Coal Company. Their product is annually increasing ; wherever the superior merits of the coal have become known it speedily supplants other kinds in use. In 1880 the company mined 200,000 tons, or CASTLE ROOK. taon, 6,300 feet A side track where passenger trains do not stop. The valley narrows in this vicinity, and the rugged rocks with their ragged edges, if possible become more interesting to the observer. Rock Springs, 831.6 miles from Omaha, and 6,280 feet above the sea. This is the great coal station on the line of the Union Pacific Road. The company not only furnishes the finest lignite coal to be found, for its own use, but supplies the market at every point along 20,000 cars allowing the usual ten tons per car. They did not, however, ship this number of cars as considerable coal is furnished to all the en- gines that pass, and consumed by the people living in the town. They are now working two veins,one sixand the other about nine feet in thick- ness. The Artesian well here is 1,145 feet deep. ll'ilkintif 840.6 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,200 feet. A side track for passing trains between Rock Springs and Green River, which is the end of f*< Lara- 99 mie division of the road, 273.8 miles from that place, and 846.6 miles from Omaha, with an ele- vation of 6,140 feet. This is a regular eating- station, breakfast and supper, and is noio one of the best kept hostelries on the road. This place will eventually be a popular resort for those who are seeking for fossiliferous remains, and those who delight in fishing. Here is the outfitting point for hunting and fishing parties who desire to go either north or south, and here is the head center for Rocky Mountain spec- imens, fossils, petrifactions, etc., and travelers would like to know beforehand just what accom- modations they can obtain. Mr. Kitchen is able to provide for all, in elegant style, at reasonable prices. Here, also, he has on exhibition and for sale the specimens alluded to such as ' beautiful moss agates, fossil fish, petrified shells and wood, with others which we are not able to ni'm. Pa 1 *- others to reclaim the soil, but thus far with indifferent success, though Mr. Fields was quite successful, in 1875, with a crop of potatoes, cabbages, turnips, radishes, and other "garden truck." Stages leave here for Big Horn, Sweetwater.. and other towns tri-weekly. The old mud huts are beginning* to find occupants again. The Desert House is the only hotel, a pleasant place with its flowers, ferns, and pictures. The high projecting tower north of the track, crowning a bluff, is 625 feet higher than the river level below, and about 615 feet higher than the track. Other rocks, as " The Sisters " and " The Twin Sisters " will be readily recog- nized by the passing traveler. " Wake up, wake up," said an old lady to her husband, as the train approached the station one THK TWIN SISTERS, GREEN RIVER. ties of man are employed to search the hills, mountains and valleys in this vicinity, for these specimens, and when found, to bring them in. The stock is, therefore, continually replenished with rich and rare gems and fossils, and they may here be obtained at any time. Being the end of a division, Green Rirer has a large roundhouse with fifteen stalls, and the usual machine and repair shops. The railroad bursts into the valley through a narrow gorge between two hills, then turns to the right and enters the town, crossing the river beyond on a wooden truss bridge. The old adobe town, re- mains of which are still visible, was on the bot- tom-laad directly in front of the gorge. Green River is now the county-seat of Sweetwater County, Wyoming, and has a population of nearly 500 persons. Efforts have been made by Mr. Fields and a few morning last year; "here is Solomon's temple petrified," said she, as she gave him another shake. The old gentleman rubbed his eyes, gave another yawn, and finally looked out, to see what excites the curiosity of every traveler, as he arrives at this place. Sure enough ; it seems as though some great temple once stood here, or several of them, and in the wrecks of time, left their gigantic pillars standing, as a reminder of their former greatness. TJte Green Itiver, The peculiar color of this river is not owing to the fact of any discolora- tion of the water ; that, when the banks of the stream are not filled by freshets of itself or some of its tributaries, is very pure and sweet, and of the usual color of clear water, but is owing to the green shale through which it runs, amd which can readily be seen in the bluffs in the vicinity and for quite a distance up Black's Fork, and 100 PETRIFIED FISH CUT, GREEN JUVEK. which is supposed to contain arsenic or chloride of copper, which becomes detached by drainage and fastens itself to the pebble stones and bot- tom of the stream, causing the water, as you look into it, to bear the same color. This river rises in the Wyoming and Wind River Mount- ains, is fed by numerous tributaries, and flows in a general southerly direction, until it unites with the Colorado River. The scenery along its banks, most always rugged, in some places is sublime. Where it is crossed by the railroad, its valley is narrow, enclosed on either side by high bluffs, which have been washed into numerous fanciful shapes by the storms of time, and which are crowned, in many instances, by col- ums, or towers, forcibly reminding one of the towers, battlements and castles, spoken of in the old feudal times. Its tributaries, nearly all have narrow fertile valleys, which are be- ing occupied by stockmen, and which afford both hay and shelter for stock. South of the railroad, it winds through the famous Col- orado Canon, so well and grandly described by Major Powell, the explorer. The river and its surroundings must from their very nature, always be a source of interest to the scien- tist, and will soon become a popular resort for fossil hunters, gem searchers and sports- men. Brown's Hole. This is a beautiful scene just below Red Canon, the water is calm, quiet, and peaceful, like a mirror, with wonderfully dis- tinct reflections. Here is the last quiet stretch ut the river ere it enters into the turbulent pas- sage of the deeper, gloomier, and larger canon WEST BANK GREEN RIVER, LOOKING EASTWARD. below. The sandy beach, at the left, shows the foot-prints of numerous deer, bears, and elk that frequent the bank. Brown's Hole is an expansion of the val' ley of Green River, and is about five miles wide and thirty miles long. This is a name given by the old trappers, 40 years ago, or more and has been a favorite wintering place for stock. Little or no snow falls in the valleys, and they are so well surrounded by high mountains, that the bleak winds of winter cannot reach them. The valley is covered with wild sage and bunch grass and at the time of the visit of the Hayden Exploring Party, there were 2,200 head of Texas cattle, just driven in, to fatten for the California market. In the north sides of the valley, the beds of rock have, by the action of the weather, become shaped into innumerably beautiful, architectural forms, like the ruins of pyramids. Giant's Clitb. This is fairly a giant in di- mensions, as its proportions are really colos- sal. It rises with almost perpendicular sides, and is impossible to scale by ascent. The rock is interesting for its peculiar formation, as it bears evidences of having once existed at the bottom of a lake. It lies in regular strata, all horizontal, and most of these contain fossils of plants and fishes. The plants are all extinct species, and closely allied to our fruit and forest trees ; among them, however, are some palms, which indicated this to be, in original times, vhen the deposit was formed, a very warm climate. Professor Hayden, in examining this rock, and others near, found the plants in the upper part of the rock, and about a hundred feet 101 Awer down, discovered the remains of fishes, all of them belonging to fresh water, and all extinct species. They were imbedded in oily shales, and insects were found with them, in a remarkable state of preservation. With the fishes were also found feathers of birds, and a few reeds. Peculiarities of the Green River Rocks. To the peculiar formation of rocks which gives all this region its characteristic features, is given the name of the Green River Shales. The sedi- ments are arranged in regular layers, mostly quite thin, but varying from the thickness of a knife-blade to several feet. These peculiar layers, or bands, are quite varied in shades of color. In some of the thin slabs of shale, are thousands of beautiful impressions of fish, some- times a dozen or so within the compass of a ters of the river are of the purest emerald, with banks and sand-bars of glistening white. The perpendicular bluff to the left is nearly 1,500 feet above the level of the river, and of a bright red and yellow. When illuminated by full sunlight, it is grand, and deserves its full title " The Flam- ing Gorge." It is the entrance to -a gateway to the still greater wonders and grandeurs of the famous Red Canon that cuts its way to a depth of 3,000 feet, between this point and its entrance into Brown's Hole. , Leaving Green River the railroad crosses the bridge, turns to the right, and runs along under the bluffs the highest being about 350 feet high, and almost over the river in one place for about three miles, when it again turns to the left, passing the divide where there is an un- OLUU, i.ci:r,N uiv,.;;. square foot. Impressions of insects and wa,ter plants are also sometimes found. At Burning Bock Cut, the road passes through thin layers of a sort of cream-colored, chalky limestone, interspersed with strata of a dark-brown color, saturated with petroleum, so as to burn freely. The Cut derives its name Burning Rocks, from the fact that during the building of the road the rocks became ignited and burned for some days, illuminating the labor of the workmen by night and filling the valley with dense clouds of smoke by day. Curious Scenes along the Green River. At the mouth of Henry's Fork there is a view on Green River of great beauty, which derives its principal charm from its vivid colors. The war GIANT'S TEA-POT, GREEN KIVEK. named side track, and along a hilly, broken country. The Sweetivater. This stream rises in the Wind River Mountains, directly north of Point of Rocks and Salt Wells, in the great South Pass, discovered by General Fremont, and runs in a general easterly direction uniting with the North Platte River about 80 miles north of Fort Steele. South of it is the Sweetwater Mountain Range. North of it lay the Rattlesnake Hills, which are said to be one continuous chain of broken ragged rocks heaped upon each other in confused masses. They are utterly barren and desolate, and beyond the snakes which give them their name, are avoided by almost every living thing. Near the mouth of this river, Independence '102 Rock, a noted landmark of the plains, rises. It is on the line of the Indian trail, to the upper North Platte Region, and near it has been found immense deposits of soda in lakes which are said to be nearly pure, and which are soon to be worked. The valley of this stream is rarelv covered with snow in winter, and affords ex- cellent grazing for stock the entire year. Were it not so exposed to Indian raids in summer, it would soon be occupied. The care of stock re- quires horses and beyond the killing of a few head for beef occasionally, the Indians do not trouble it ; the horses are what they want, and what they come after and scalps will be taken, if necessary to obtain them. Placer, gulch and quartz gold has been discovered in the Wind River Mountains, near the Great South Pass, and fortunes have been made and lost in that mining district in a very short time. They have been made by the mining sharks, who sold their mines to the inexperienced and uninitiated from the East, and lost by the parties who were "taken in." To the east of the Wind River Mountains the Shoshone or Snake River Indian reservation has been laid off. The principal towns are Atlantic City, South Pass City, and Miner's Delight, a mining town. Near Atlantic Gity is Camp St-imbangh, and still farther north, on the east sile of the same mountain, is Camp Brown, the latter being near the boundary line of the Indian reservation referred to. Very fine hot mineral springs have been found on or near this reservation. The main road by which these places are reached, leads out from Bryan and Green River. From the latter placo four-horse coaches are run tri-weekly, while from the former a great quantity of govern- ment freight is annually shipped. The road crosses the river near the mouth of Big Sandy Creek, and follows up this stream, and its south branch to Pacific Spring, after which it crosses a low divide to a tributary of the Sweetwater. While the road from Point of Rocks is much shorter yet this route is said to be the best as it follows the valley of a stream all the way, and avoids sand-hills which are very trying to stock. From Green River the road at present traveled, passes up the valley until it strikes the Big Sandy, where it intersects the road from Bryan. The nearest peaks seen on the north side of the track, as you pass the divide just west of Creston, are those of the real Rocky Mountain Range, and extend in a north-westerly direction to the head of the Wind River Mountains, from which they are only divided by the Sweetwater Valley. Be- fore the Lodge Pole Valley Route was discovered via the Cheyenne Pass, the North Platte and Sweetwater Route via the South Pass and Big Sandy was the main, in fact the great overland route, traveled by the Mormons and Cali- fornia emigrants. At the time the railroad was built, however, the Lodge Pole Route was the one mainly traveled. The vast region north of the railroad between the Black Hills and Green River Valley, contains within itself the germs of a mighty empire, only waiting for the united efforts of capital and labor for development. l$ri/an, over 13 miles from Green River, and 860 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,340 feet or just 200 feet higher than at Green River. This station was formerly a division ter- minus at which time it waS a place of consider- able importance. The government has a depot here, where its freight for Camp Stambaugh, Camp Brown and other places is received. The majority of the- freight for the Sweetwater Min- ing District and the settlements at the base of the Wind River Mountains, South Pass City, Atlantic City, etc., is also shipped from this place, the distance to the latter city being 90 miles. Bry.ii; is the first station where the rail- road strikes 'Black's Fork of the Green River. This fork rises i?i the Uintah Mountains, directly south of Piedmont, and runs in a north-easterly direction till it reaches Bryan, then turns toward the south-west and unites with Green River some twenty miles below the town of Green .'liver. The valley at Bryan is quite broad in places, and thickly covered with sago brush and greasewood. The soil is said to be fertile and capable of pro- ducing large crops with irrigation. Fort Bridger, eleven miles south of Carter Station, is on this stream, and at that place over 300 bushels of potatoes have been raised i'lom a single half acre of ground." This shows what this virgin soil can do if irrigated. The table- land on the elevated benches that the iiaveler will observe on either side of the road, is said to be equally rich, and would be equally as prolific if it could be irrigated. As you approach Bryan, look away to the south and south-east, and you will behold the towering peaks of the Uintab Mountains, 70 or 80 miles off. They do not look so distant, but then distance is very decep- tive in this country. Bryan is a telegraph sta- tion with a store, saloon, and a few' houses all that's left to tell the story of its better and de- parted days. Its early history is the same as all the railroad towns we have mentioned, with roughs, cut-throats, gamblers, villains, etc., and their cleaning out by vigilance committees, under law administered by " Judge Lynch." We now pursue our way up the valley of Black's Fork. Four miles west of Bryan, the road first crosses this stream which it follows to Church Buttes. Marsfon is the next station a side track 21 miles from Green River, and 867.6 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,245 feet. From the appar- ently level plains which the r6ad crosses, abrupt buttes or bluffs rise as if built by human hands 103 as mounds to conceal some treasure, or to perpet- uate some remarkable incident in history. They form a curious study, and awaken no little in- terest in the mind of an observing traveler. To the left of the track there are a number of low buttes as you approach Granyer, the next station, 877.2 miles from Omaha, and 6,270 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, named in honor of an old set- tler here. The Union Pacific Company is now building its "Oregon Branch" from Granger northwest via Soda Springs and Snake River Valley, Idaho, to Portland, Oregon. The branch is to be completed in 1882, and will be a sev- eral hundred miles shorter route from the East to Oregon than any other projected line. The road here crosses Ham's Fork, a tributary of Black's Fork, which rises some 70 to Evanston, in great profusion. The most of them, however, are valueless, but occasionally specimens of rare beauty are picked up. On what are called " the bad lands," about 7 miles south of the road, however, the finest agates, with other beautiful gems, are obtained with lit- tle difficulty. In Ham's Fork water agates, creamy white, and amber colored, may be occa- sionally picked up. They are quite rare, and when cut by the lapidary, are held to be of con- siderable value. View of Uintah Mountains. The view we give an illustration of, on page 78, is one of the finest in the Far West. The scene is taken from Photograph Ridge, at an elevation of 10,829 feet. In the foreground is a picturesque group of the mountain pines. In the middle distance flows Black's Fork. The peaks or cones CHURCH BUTTES miles north-west, and which, the old settlers say, is really the main stream of the two. The banks of this stream, as far as you can see, are lined with bushes, and farther up, its valley produces luxuriant grass, from which hay is cut, and upon which numerous herds of cattle feed. An oval peak rises on the north side of the track, beyond Which, in the distance, may be seen a range of blulf.s, or mountains,which rise up between Ham's Fork and Green River. From Granger to the next station, are buttes on both sides of the track, while, to the left, the high peaks of the Uintah Range tower up in the distance, affording one of the grandest views on the line of the road. This is the region of moss agates, gems of vari- ous kinds, and precious stones. Agates are found all along the line of the road from Green River ON BLACK'S FORK. in the distance have their summits fai abuv^ the limits of perpetual snow, and from 1.500 to 2,000 feet above the springs that are the sources of the streams below. These cones are diotirictly strati- fied, mostly horizontal, and there are frequently vast piles of purplish, compact quartzite, which resemble Egyptian pyramids no a gigantic scale, without a trace of grit, vegetation, or water. One of these remarkable structui es stands out isolated from the rest, in the middle of the Valley of Smith's Fork, and is so much like a Gothic church, that the United States Surveying Party gave it the name of Hayden's Cathedral, after the leader of the exploration. Church Butte^-887.7 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,317 feet. The particular buttes, from which thb station derives its name, are 104 about 10 miles south of the station, on the old overland stage road, but buttes rise up from the level plains in this vicinity in every direction. They are, however, fast washing away. The annual increase in rain-fall on this desert, since the completion of the railroad and the stretch- ing of five telegraph wires, is remarkable, and is especially noticed by the old settlers. These rains, with the frosts of winter, are having a noticeable effect on the buttes. Isolated peaks have disappeared entirely and prominent pro- jections have been materially lessened. There are still a large number, however, chiseled by the action oi frosts and rains into fantastic shapes which will excite the attention and rivet the gaze of the traveler, as he passes by ; but, if their annual diminution continues, in less than half a century, th iy will have lost their interest. Near this station is the last crossing of Black's Fork, which now bears away to the left, while the road ascends another of its branches, called the Big Muddy. What has been said in refer- ence to abates, etc., of the other stations, will apply to Church Buttes with equal force. Curious Scientific Explorations. Church Buttes is a curious formation, located on the line of th3 old overland stage route, about one hundred and fifty miles east from Salt Lake, and at this point having an elevation of 6,731 feat. The formation is part of the Mauvaises Terres, or Bad Lands, and consists of a vast de- posit of sedimentary sandstones, and marly clay, in perfectly horizontal strata, and contain within their beds, some very remarkable paleontological remains. The peculiar effects of stormy weather and flood, in the past, has carved the bluff-lines into the most curious and fantastic forms lofty domes arid pinnacles, and fluted columns, these rocks resembling some cathedral of the olden time, standing in the midst of desolation. Professor Hayden, in speaking of them says, " Distance lends a most delicious enchantment to the scene, and the imagination can build many castles from out of this mass of most singular formation. A nearer approach dispels some of the illusions, but the mind is no less impressed with the infinite variety of detail and the scat- tered remains of the extinct life of some far dis- tant age." In this section are found " moss agates," in the greatest abundance, being scattered all over the surface of the country. Standing upon one of tha summits of the highest point of the "Bad Lands," Hayden says, " as far as the eye can reach, upon every side, is a vast extent of most infinite detail. It looks like some ruined city of the gods, blasted, bare, desolate, but grave, beyond a mortal's telling." In 1870, a geological expedi- tion, headed by Prof. O. C. Marsh, of Yale College, and known as the " Yale College Expedition of 1870 " visited the " Bad Lands " and made a geological examination. They were accompanied by Buffalo Bill, a military troupe, and ten Pawnee Indians, as guides. On the way, Professor Marsh endeavored to explain the mighty changes oi geology and the grand discoveries they would make and Buffalo Bill intimated, some oi them were " pretty tough yarns." The desolation of the country can only be imagined, not de- scribed hour after hour the party marched over burning sand-hills, without rocks or trees, or signs of water, while the thermometer stood at 110 in the shade of the wagons. After fourteen hours in the saddle, one of the soldiers, exhaust- ed with heat and thirst, finally exclaimed : " What did God Almighty make such as thisjorf" " Why," replied another more devout trooper, " God Almighty made the country good enough^ but it's this deuced geology the professor talks about, that spoiled it all. ' ' For fresh water the party had to thank the favor of a thunder-shower, during which they drank from the rims of each other's hats. Their researches resulted in the discovery of the re- mains of various species of the camel, horse, mammals, and others new to science. A branch of this expedition exploring the canons and plains of Northern Colorado, discovered a large deposit which contained great quantities of fossil turtles, and rhinoceros, birds, and the re- mains of the areodon, a remarkable animal combining the characteristics of the modern sheep, pig and deer. The remains of another mon- ster, the Titanotherium, were found of such vast proportions, that a lower jaw measured over four feet in length. At Antelope Station, in one of these areodon beds, remains were found of several species of horse ; one a three-toed ani- mal, and another which, although full grown, had attained the height of but two feet. In an ex- ploration near Green River the expedition found petrified fishes in abundance, and a small bed, containing fossil insects, a rare discov- ery. Here were beetles and dragons, flies and grasshoppers; a gigantic fossil mosquito, and an extinct flea of great dimensions were also discovered. At Fort Wallace, Ks., the party found a trophy in the form of a skeleton of a sea serpent nearly complete, which alone re- quired four days to dig out and bring to the camp. This monster when alive could not have been less than 60 feet. It had a slender eel- like body and tail, with mouth like a boa-con- strictor. Among the curious incidents which happened, was the discovery of a genuine Sioux Indian bur- ial ground. The dead were reposing on platforms of boughs elevated above the ground, and sup- ported at the four corners by poles about eight feet in height. On one of these tombs lay two bodies, a woman, decked in beads and bracelets, and a scalpless brave, with war paint still on the cheeks, and holding in his crumbling hand, a rusty shot-gun, and a pack of card*. Several 105 incidents occurred from the abundance of rattle- snakes. Several animals were bitten by them, and the country at some places fairly swarmed with them. iN umbers were killed every day by the horses' feet, and while members of the party would occasionally bathe in the river, these reptiles would bask upon the bank of the stream near their clothes, as one of them says, " Their humming soon became an old tune, and the charm of shooting the wretches wore away for all but one, who was collecting their rattles as a necklace for his lady love." Hampton, a little over 50 miles from Green River, 897.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,500 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track where, occasionally, trains meet and pass. Approaching this station, two large buttes lift themselves above their fellows on the left side of the track, while beyond, a low, dark ridge may be seen cov- ered with cedars. In this ridge is an abundance of game and good hunting at almost any season of the year. The game consists of elk, coyotes, wolves, deer, bears, etc. About three miles be- fore you reach the next station, you will notice off to the right of the track, a long, low, dark ridge. It is also covered with cedars, and it strikes the road near Bridger Station. There are also plenty of cedars in the bluffs to the left before you reach Carter, the next station, which is 904.6 miles from Omaha, and 6,550 feet above the sea. The station is named in honor of Col. Dick Carter, whose home is here, and who has lived here since the completion of the railroad. It is the nearest railroad station to Fort Bridger, which is located on Black's Fork, 11 miles due south, and reached by daily stages- from this point. Near Carter, also, one can hardly go amiss of moss agates and other curious speci- mens. About twenty miles, a little northwest of this station, is a mountain of coal on a tribu- tary of Little Muddy. In this mountain are found three splendid veins of coal, of total thickness of eighty-seven feet, which can be traced over ten miles; also layers of slate twenty-five to thirty feet in depth. The coal resembles cannel coal, and makes excellent coke for smelting purposes. Seven miles north of Carter is a white sulphur spring, a chaly- beate spring, and, also, a fine fresh water spring. The branch railroad from Granger will pass these springs, and reach the moun- tain of coal in a distance of fifty miles. Smith's Fork, a branch of Black's, is about five miles south of Fort Bridger, and Henry's Fork, of Green Kiver, is some twenty-five miles still farther south, and is noted for its rich grazing. It is mostly occupied by stock- men as a winter range, where large numbers of cattle are annually wintered without hay. Smith's and Henry's Forks are filled with trout, and afford fine fishing, while there is au abund- ance of game, such as elk, deer, antelope and bear, to attract the hunter and sportsman. Numerous sage hens give fine shooting in the summer months. Carter is a telegraph station, and has a store from which ranchmen, hunters, and others obtain supplies. A government road to Fort Ellis, Montana and the Yellow- stone Park, has been surveyed from this station by way of Bear River Valley and the Soda Springs in Idaho. It is some eighty miles nearer than by Ogden or Corinne, over a fine route. Bridger 914.1 mile from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,780 feet. It is a telegraph sta- tion named in honor of Jim Bridger, who was a noted hunter and guide for government and other expeditions. Since leaving Bryan we have been going up hill all the time, and our ascent will now be rapid until we pass the divide between Piedmont and Aspen. Near here is a cliff five hundred feet high, called " Pluto's Outlook" which can be seen on the left of the track three miles west. Leroy is the next station. It is 919.1 miles from Omaha, and 7,123 feet above the level of the sea. In passing over only five miles of road, we have ascended nearly 350 feet. Leav- ing this place, you will observe old telegraph poles still standing on the left of the track. They mark the line of the old overland road. About two miles west of Leroy, at the base of a hill or bluff, south of the track, are some ex- cellent soda springs. They are near the road, and trains sometimes stop to enable passengers to drink the water. The water is highly recom- mended for the cure of dyspepsia and toning- lip of the system. The follo\ring is an analysis of the water as made by Assistant Surgeon Smart, of the United States Army. It should be stated, however, that the very important element of carbonic acid could not be deter- mined, as much of this had escaped while the water was in transit from the spring to Camp Douglas, Utah: GRAINS, PER GAL. Carbonate of Magnesia 50.680 Carbonate of Lime 58.674 Sulphate of Lime 41.104 Sulphate of Soda (Glauber's salts) 116.655 Chloride of Sodium (common salt) 270.200 Iron and Alumina 1.162 Total. 538,475 Potassium is also present in small quantity. The hills and valleys in this vicinity con- tinue to abound in agates and other curious specimens, while soda, iron and fresh water springs are numerous, sometimes in close proximity to each other. Piedmont. Here the road, after crossing it, leaves the Muddy, which comes in from the south. This station is ten miles from Leroy, 929.1 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 106 7,540 feet. In summer, the scenery along this part of the road is delightful, while in winter the storms are severe, the wind blowing almost a constant gale, while the snow drifts mountains high. There are several snow sheds along this part of the road, the longest being on the sum- mit, 2,700 feet in length. The road having to wind around the spurs and into the depressions of the hills, is very crooked, in one place doub- ling back on itsalf. We are now crossing a high ridge in the Uintah Mount- ains, and the second highest elevation on the Union Pacific. Off to the left these mountains in higher, grand- er forms, lift their summits toward the clouds, and are most always covered with snow, while their sides are lined with dark gresn the col- or of the pi 113 forests, which partially envel- op them. While the road was be- ing built, large quantities o f ties, telegraph poles and bridge timber, were cut on the Foot Hills, near these mountains, and delivered to the company. About two miles north- west of Pied- mont, is a won- derful Soda Spring. The sediment or de- posits of this spring have built up a conical-shaped body with a basin on the top. In this basin the water appears, to a small extent, and has evidently sometime had a greater flow than at present ; but, as similar springs have broken out around the. base of this cone, the pressure on the main spring has, doubt- less, been relieved, and its flow, consequently, lessened. The cone is about 15 feet high and is well worthy of a visit from the tourist. At Piedmont, the traveler will first observe the per- manent coal pits, built of stone and brick, which INTERIOR OF SNOW are used in this country for the manufacture of charcoal for the smelting works of Utah. There are more of them at Milliard and Evanston, and they will be more fully described then. Leaving Piedmont, the road makes a long curve, like a horse-shoe doubling on itself, and, finally, reaches the summit of the divide in long snow shed, one of the longest on the road. Aspen, the next station. It is 938.5 miles 'from Omaha, and has a reported elevation of 7,835 feet. It is not a great distance only about two miles from the sum- mit. Evidences of change in the formation of the country are everywhere visi- ble, and the change affords a marked relief to the weary mo- notony of the desolate plains over which we have passed. Down the grade we now pass rapidly, with high hills on either side of the track through a lovely valley, with an occasional fill, and through a deep cut, to the next station. HiUiard, This station, opened for busi- ness in 1873, is 943.5 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 7,310 feet. The town owes its importance to SHEDS, tr. P. R. R. the II i 1 1 i a r d Flume & Lumber Company, which has extensive property interests here, and in the vicinity. In approaching the town from Aspen, the road passes down a " draw " or ravine, through a cut on a curve, and near this place enters the Bear River Valley, one of the most beautiful, and so far as has been demon- strated, fertile valleys of the Rocky Mountains, Two things excite the curiosity of the traveler if he has never seen them before ; one is the coal pits, and the other is the elevated flume under TMM 107 I which trains of cars pass. This flume, built of [timber and boards, is 24 miles long, and is 2,000 feet higher where it first takes 'the water from Bear River, than where it empties the same at Hilliard. The greatest fall in any one mile is 320 feet. The timber which is brought to the station by this flume, is obtained in large amounts in the foot hills of the Uintah Mount- ains, or on the mountains themselves and is mostly pine. The saw-mill of the company, erected at the head of this flume, has a capacity of 40,000 feet in 24 hours, with an engine of 40 horse-power. Over 2,000,000 feet of lumber were consumed in the construc- tion of this flume, and its branches in the mountains. Through it cord-wood, lum- ber, ties and saw-logs are floated down to the railroad. The cord-wood is used for cha<-- coal. You will observe the con- ical shaped pits in wlfich it is made, near the railway track, on the right, as you pass west- ward. There are 29 pits or 'kilns at Hilli- ard, nineteen small ones, and ten large ones. The small kilns require twenty- six cords of wood at a fill- ing, and the large ones forty cords'. The small ones cost about $750, each ; the large ones $900. These kilns consume 2,000 cords of wood per month, and produce 100,000 bushels of charcoal as a re- sult, in the same time. There are other kilns about nine miles south of the town, in active oper- ation. There are fine iron and sulphur springs within three-fourths of a mile of the station. The reddish appearance of the mountain we have just passed indicates the presence of iron in this vicinity in large quantities, and coal also begins to crop out in different places as we go down the valley. Bear River is renowned for its trout. They are caught south of the road in ROCK COT, NEAR ASPEN. the mountain tributaries, and north of Evans- ton, in Bear River Lake. Though the country has somewhat changed in appearance, and a dif- ferent formation has been entered upon, we have not passed the region of agates and gems, precious and otherwise. They are found in the vicinity of Hilliard, in large quantities, together with numerous petrifactions of bones, etc., with fossilized fish, shells, ferns and other materials. Twenty-five miles a little south-west of Hil- liard are found two . sulphur mountains. The sulphur is nearly 90 per cent, pure, in inex- haustible quan- tities. The scenery of the Upper Bear River is rugged and grand. About 20 miles south of Hil- liard is a nat- u-al fort which was taken pos- session of by a gang of horse thieves and cut throats, under the lead of one Jack Watkins, a genuine front- ier ruffian, who, with his com- panions, for a long time re- sisted all at tempts at car> tare. The hills and mountains in this vicinity abound in game, and offer rare induce- ments to sports- m e n . The country around both Hilliard and Evanston is the natural home for bears, elk, deer, catamounts, lynx, wolves, coyotes, wolverines, beaver, mink, foxes, badgers, mountain lions, wild cats, jack rabbits, etc., grouse sage hens, quails and ducks in the spring and fall. Not far north of Evans- ton, on Bear River, is Bear Lake, ten miles in length, and from five to eight in breadth. The boundary line between Idaho and Utah passes directly across the lake from east to west. Soda Springs. Farther north,at the Big Bend of Bear River, the most interesting group of soda springs known on the Continent, occupy some six square miles. To those graced with steam vents, Fremont gave the name of Steamboat 108 Springs, from the noise they make like a low- pressure engine. Near by is a spring with an orifice brightly stained with a brilliant yellow coating of oxide of iron, from which the water is thrown up two feet. Independence Rock. This has long been a noted landmark, for travelers on the old over- land wagon route. Its base which borders the road is literally covered with names and dates, some of them even before Fremont's expedition crossed the Continent many more well known. The Sweetwater River flows immediately along the southern end of it, and on the opposite side of the stream is another ridge similar to it, continuing from the south-west, which was once connected with it. It is a huge example of dis- integration ; its rounded form resembles an oblong hay-stack, with layers of rocks lapping the ledge on the right of the track, upon which the Mormons piled up stones to roll down on Gen. Albert Sidney John- son's army, when it should pass here, in 1857. The canon virtually becomes a gorge here, and the wagon road runs close to the base of the high bh it's, (it could not be made in any other place) which the Mormons fortified after a fashion. Now you pass these forts ; high up on the top, on the outer edge or rim you will still see small piles of stones which they gathered there for of- fensive operations, when the trains and soldiers of the army went by. They look small they are so far off, and you pass them so quickly not larger than your fist but nevertheless they are there. They are best seen as they recede from view. At the time we speak of, (1857) there was trouble between the Mormons and the United States authorities, which led to the sending of an army to Salt Lake City. It approached as far as Fort Bridger, where the season being late it went into winter quarters. It was ex- pected to pass through this canon, however, that same fall, and hence the preparations which the Mormons made to receive it. Their army the Nauvoo Legion, redivivus, under the command of Gen. Daniel H. Wells, had its camp near these rocks, in a little widening of the valley below, just beyond where you pass a " pocket " of boulders, or detached parts of the ledges above, which have sometime, in the dim past, rolled into the valley. The rocky fort being passed, with the pocket of boulders and the site of the old camp, the traveler next approaches " Steam- boat Rock," a huge red projection like the prow of a big propeller. A little cedar, like a flag of perpetual green, shows its head on 4he bow, while farther back, the beginning of the hurri- cane deck is visible. It slopes off to the rear, and becomes enveloped in the rocky mass around it. By some, this is called " The Great Eastern," and the one just below it, if anything, a more perfect representation of a steamer, is SENTINEL ROCK, ECHO CAMu.X. called " The Great Republic." They are really curious formations, and wonderful to those who look upon them for the first time. " Monument Rock " comes next. It is within a cove and seems withdrawn from the front, as though shun- ning the gaze of the passing world, yet in a posi- tion to observe every thing that goes by. If the train would only stop and give you more time but this cannot be done, and your only recourse ROCK SCENES NEAK ECHO CITY. 1 ."Witches Rocks. 2. Battlement Rocks. 3. Egyptian Tombs. 4. Witches Bottles. 5. Needle Rocks, near Wahsatch. 117 is to pause at Echo and let it pass, while you wait for the one following. This will give you ample opportunity to see the natural wonders congregated in this vicinity. We have almost reached the mouth of Echo Creek, and the Weber River comes in from the left, opposite " Bromley's Cathedral" in front of which stands "Pulpit Rock" on the most extended point as you turn the elbow in the road. This " Cathe- dral " is named in honor of J. E. Bromley, Esq., who has lived at Echo since 1858, and who cama here as a divi- sion superin- tendent of Ben Holladay's O/erland Stage to 80 feet in height, and are cut and brought down to the val- leys for their timber. Accommo- dations for pleas- ure parties for visiting this won- derful canon, and for fishing and hunting, can be obtained in Ogden, and no excursion party from ocean to ocean should fail to visit it. Beyond the mountains, before the river gorges through, there is a fertile valley pretty well settled, and the road through the canon gives the people living there an outlet to the town. This road was built several years ago, and re- quired a great deal of time and labor, and fitly illustrates the persevering industry of the Mor- mon people. Fruit-growing is very common in the vicin- ity of Ogden, and a large quantity of the NARROWS OF OGDEN CA.M-Cs'. best varieties grown in the Territory are pro. duced in this region of country. Utah apples, peaches and pears are finer in size, color and flavor than any grown in the Eastern or Middle States. Hot Springs. Northward from Ogden, about nine miles, is a very interesting lo- cality, known as the Hot Springs. Here is a group of warm springs, forming, in the aggregate, a stream three feet wide, and six to twelve inches deep; the sur- face, for a space of 300 to 400 yards in extent, is cov- ered with a de- posit of oxide of iron, so that it resembles a t a n - yard in color. The temperature is 136. They flow from beneath a mountain called Hot Spring Mount- ain, which is about five miles long and three wide. The elevation of the lake is 4,191 feet. The water of the spring is clear as crystal, containing great quantities of iron, and the sup- ply is abundant. As there are plenty of cold springs in the vicinity, there is nothing to prevent this from being a noted place of resort for invalids. The medicinal qual- ities of this water are excellent for rheumatism, skin diseases, dys- pepsia, and the j climate is unsur- The Territory of Utah. When the Mormons first located in Utah, in 1847, it was territory belonging to Mexico, but by the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, in March, 1848, it was passed over to the United States with New Mexico and the whole of upper Cali- fornia. The government of the United States was not very prompt in extending its jurisdic- tion over the newly-acquired Territory, and in 128 129 the absence of any other government the Mor- mons set up one for themselves, which was called the State of Deseret. This was done in the spring of 1849. On the &th of September, 1850, Congress passed a bill which ignored the State government of the Mormons, and organized the Territory of Utah, and on the 28th of that same month, Millard Fillmore, President, appointed Brigham Young,Governor of the Territory with a full complement of executive and judicial officers. Since that time the area of the Territory has been diminished, but it is still large enough for all practical purposes. It now extends from the 37th to the 42d parallels of north latitude, and from the 109th to the 114th degree of longitude, embracing over 84,000 square miles or over 54,000,000 of acres. The national census of 1870 showed a population of about 90,000, and a fair estimate would give the Territory about 125,000 people at the present time. The climate, as a general thing, is salubrious and healthy, and violent extremes of either heat or cold are seldom experienced. The area of land susceptible of cultivation is small as compared to that included in the whole Territory, and a large quantity of even desert land is now unproductive because of the presence of alkali and mineral substances. While all kinds of grain can be grown with more or less success depending upon local causes wheat is the great staple, and in favorable sea- sons and localities monstrous crops of the great cereal have been produced. It may astonish eastern readers, but it is nev- ertheless a fact, that whole fields, producing from fifty to sixty bushels per acre of as fine wheat as was ever grown, are no uncommon, thing in Utah. The land, of course, is irrigated, and there is no great danger of loss by rains dur- ing the harvest season. The average yield, it is true, is a great deal less than this, amounting to abcut twenty-five bushels per acre. On account of the high altitude and cool nights, corn will not do as well, though fair crops are raised. Vegetables of all kinds grow to an astonishing size, and are superior in quality. Corn will, as a general thing, do better in the valleys in the southern part of the Territory, where cotton is also grown to a limited extent, and some kinds of tropical fruits. The climate and soil are especially adapted to the production of apples, pears, peaches, plums, currants, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc. It must constantly be borne in mind, that successful agricultural pursuits can only be carried on here with irriga- tion, and that, as a general thing, it costs no more to irrigate land here, nor as much, as it costs to drain and clear it in many of the Eastern States. The market for most of the products raised in this Territory, is at the mining camps and settlements, and in Nevada, Idaho and Mon- tana. The explorations in the southern half of the Territory, have resulted in the discovery of vast deposits of iron, coal, copper, silver, gold and lead. In the Strawberry Valley, coal veins over twenty feet thick, of excellent quality, have been discovered. In San Pete Valley, other magnificent coal deposits have been found, from which coke for smelting purposes has been made. East of the Wahsatch Range, in San Pete County, are the remains of the Moquis Village, of which much has been written. Iron County, still south, is so named from the vast deposits of this material found within its limits; and, in the spring of 1876, the most wonderful discov- eries of silver were made near St. George, in what has been called the Bonanza District. There is horn silver around a piece of petrified wood in a sandstone formation. A part of this petrifaction was coal. The discovery of silver in such a formation, has upset many of the geo- logical theories heretofore prevalent in the country. Ore from surface mines to the value of over fifty thousand dollars, has already been taken out. There are two main ranges of mountains in Utah, running nearly parallel to each other. The easternmost range is the Wahsatch, and that farther west the Oquirrh. Still farther to the west are broken ranges, parallel with those above named. Mining. The mountains of Utah are found to contain exceptionally large deposits of sil- ver, lead, copper, iron and coal; and in some localities gold, antimony and cinnabar are present in sufficient quantities to pay for work- ing. Salt is shoveled from the shores of Salt Lake by the .ton, and sulphur, saltpeter, gyp- sum, plumbago, soda, rock salt, marble, slate and limestone are among kindred resources. UtaL's ores are generally easily produced, often lying in largest deposits near lines of her splen- did system of railways. They are easily worked as a rule, and dozens of mills and smelters are in successful operation within a few miles of tho most noted mines. Rich, dis- coveries are constantly reporte-1 from the more remote districts. Some of these, in the southern portion of the territory, con- sist of immense deposits of a high grade of silver ores. The Ontario mine, which has filled the pub- lic prints, is one of the richest mines on the continent, having paid some fifty successive monthly dividends of $75,000 each in the past four years, or a total of nearly $4,000,000. In fact, Utah alone has all the resources of an empire; and if it were only under a safe, stable and peaceful political local government, she would become one of the richest and brightest stars in the coronet of the na- 'tion. It were well if certain pages in her eventful history could be forever obliter' ated. Utah Central Railroad. Ogdeu is the oil northern terminus of this road. It is the pioneer line of Utah proper, though the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Roads were completed first through the magnificent generosity of the people of the United States. Early in May, 18(59, the iron rails which bound the Continent together were joined near Promontory, some 50 miles west of Ogden. One week after this was done, work on the Utah Central began. The company was organized on the 8th of March previous, Brigham Young being president. A large quantity of material for building railroads was left on hand, when the Union Pacific was finished to Promontory, and this was purchased by the Utah Central Company. Brigham Young had entered into a contract for grading the former road, from the head of Echo Canon to Ogden, and successfully accomplished the work. If this had not been done, that road would have failed in its race across the Conti- nent, and the Central Pacific would have built the greatest part of the trans-continental line. His contract was sublet to John Sharp and Joseph A. Young, the eldest son of the Mormon prophet. With an energy and push that had scarcely been expected from the disciples of Mormonism, this work was crowded with all possible speed, and they obtained that experi- ence in railroad building then, which has been cf great advantage to the people of Utah since. In less than, eight months from the time ground was broken for this new line of road, the last rail was laid, and on the 10th day of January, 1870, the first through train from Ogden arrived in Salt Lake City. Their road now crosses tho Central Pacific in Ogden, at nearly right angles, and their depot and freight houses are north of the Pacific roads. Arriving at Ogden from tho east, the traveler, looking ahead to the right, will see the engine and train of cars ready to take him to the City of the Sa'nts. Entering elegantly furnished cars at about o'clock P.M., and turning your back upon Ogden and the lofty mountain peaks behind it, you will soon be oif. In less than a quarter of a mile, tho road passes over the Weber River on a new and elegant iron bridge, put up Ly tlio American Bridge Company of Chicago. It is a suspension bridge, 150 feet span, each end resting on a solid abutment of masonry. This bridge is so constructed that it will contract by cold or ex- pand by heat as one body, one end being placed on rollers to allow self adjustment by the action of heat or cold. The bridge crossed, the road passes through a cut, and rises upon a bench or terrace of land from which, off to the right, the traveler obtains the first view of the Dead Sea of America the Great Salt Lake. The general direction of the road is due south, and you pur- sue your way along the base of the foot hills and mountains, which form the first line looking east, of the Wahsatch Range. As far as Kaysville, the road passes over a comparatively unsettled country, though in the dim distance on the right, the fanning settlements of Hooper may be seen near the mouth of Weber River. We soon arrive at KaysviUe, 16 miles from Ogden. Tt is a telegraph station surrounded by a farming set- tlement, with its " co-op " store, blacksmith-shop and the usual buildings of a small country town. In entering and leaving, the road crosses several little creeks that flow down from the mountains, the waters of which are nearly all drank up by the dry earth in the processes of irrigation. Passing on, the traveler will notice a few houses and settlements, toward the lake and mountains, sometimes nearer the mountains ; arriving at Farmington, the next station, 21 14 miles from Ogden. It is the county-seat of Davis County, and ha?, besides a court-house, the usual store and shops. This town is also located in the midst of a farming region, and nearly over- shadowed by the mountains on the east. Davis County slopes to the west toward the lake, has a warm rich soil, and when irrigated, produces luxuriant crops of vegetables, melons, grain, etc., for the Salt Lake market. Leaving this station the road draws near to the side of this great inland sea, to Centewille, 25 1-2 miles from Ogden, a little farming town with its store, etc. Between the lake on one side and the mountains on the other, and the thrifty farms with orchards and gardens now on either side and all around him, the traveler will be kept pretty busy. Wood's Cross is the next station, 27 3-4 miles from Ogden. It is about midway between the mountains and the lake, and is located in what is called the best portion of Davis County. It is a telegraph station with usual side tracks, etc. The country gradually slopes into the lake toward the west with an occasional drift of sand near the shore, covered with the inevitable sage brush which we have had since leaving Lara- mie River. The cosy farm houses and the evi- dences of thrift everywhere visible, the growing crops and ripening fruits, if in the summer all conspire to make a pleasant landscape, upon which the traveler can feast his greedy gaze, while the shadow of the mountains grows longer, and the twilight deepens into night as we arrive at Stilt Ltike Cit if, the southern terminus of the read, 36 1-2 miles from Ogden. But of this city, more in another place. The Utah Central has been a paying road from the start, and its business, as the years pass by, is destined to make it better still. We have not all the data at hand to show what it has done, but will give one or two illustrations. In 1873, its tonnage was as follows. Freights received, 233,533,450 Ibs. Freights shipped, 55,387,754 Ibs. In 1874, there was a slight falling off, though it was not as large as expected from the business done In 1873, because of general depres- sion of the mining interest of the Territory. In 1880 its business was as follows: Freights re- ceived, 250,728,000 Ibs.; freights shipped, 48,134,000 Ibs. Its gross earnings for 1880 were about $500,000. Its operating expenses were about $175,000. This last sum does not of course include dividends on its stock of $1,500; 000, nor the interest on its bonds, amounting to $1,000,000. The passenger fare, first-class, from Ogden to Salt Lake is $2. The controlling interest in this road is at present owned by stockholders in the Union Pacific. SALT LAKE CITY. Its Discovert/. When Brigham Young, with his weary band of pioneers arrived here, in 1817, it was a dreary waste, nevertheless a beautiful site so far as location is concerned, for a city. It lies on a bench or gradual slope from the Wahsatch Mountains, whuh tower up be- hind it on the east, to the River Jordan, which bounds it on the west. It is recorded that when the pioneers cams within a few days' inarch of the place, Orson Pratt and a few others went ahead of the party " to spy out the land " and select a place for camping, etc., convenient to wood and water. On the 22d day of July, 1817, he rods over this valley with his compan- ions, and returning to the main body, reported the results of their observations. On the morn- ing of July 24, 1817, this body arrived at the top of the hill, overlooking the site of the city, and the valley beyond, and were enchanted with the scene. They gave vent to their joy in ex- clamations of thanksgiving and praise to Almighty God. firmly believing they had found the land of promise, though it did not flow with " milk and honey," and the " Zion of the Mount- ains " predicted by ancient prophets. The Mor- mons are great on literal interpretation. Figu- rative language and expressions as viewed by them are realities. The Bible means exactly what it says with them. They had reasons, however, for being enchanted. From the canon through which they entered the valley, the view is simply magnificent. The Great Salt Lake glittered like a sheet of silver in the rays of the morning sun ; the towering peaks of the mount- ain ranges, crowned with clouds and snow, lifted themselves high up toward the sky, and the valley, though a desert, was to them as lovely as a June rose. The party camped on a small stream south-west of the Tabernacle, and pro- ceeded to consecrate the entire valley to the ' ' Kingdom of God." On the 28th of the same month, the ground for the temple was selected a tract of 40 acres, and a city two miles square was laid off. Streets eight rods wide were staked out, and the blocks contained ten acres each. Orson Pratt took observations, and deter- mined the latitude and longitude of the city. A large number of this pioneer party, after planting their crops returned for their families, and the last expedition for that year arrived on the last day of October, when they were received by those that remained with demonstrations of great joy. Brigham Young went back with the returning party, and did not find his way again to " Zion " until the next year. After the city had been founded, emigration from foreign countries, which had been suspended, was re-organized and came pouring into the Territory in masses. The city grew and the people spread out over the Territory, settling every available spot of laud, thus contributing to its prosperity. Beauty of Position. The main portion of the city lies off to the left, as it is approached by the traveler, and presents a pleasing appearance. Its streets are wide, with streams of water cours- ing their way along the sides, while rows of beautiful shade trees line the walks; and gar- dens, and yards filled with fruit trees of various kinds, everywhere greet the eye. Visitors who are interested in beautiful garden?, will find the most interesting on Main Street, just west of the Walker House, at the residences of the Walker Brothers ; also at Mr. Jen- nings, on Temple Street, near the depots. The city is now nearly thirty years old, and in that time the tourist can see for him- self what wonderful changes have been made. The desert truly buds and blossoms as the rose. The city is admirably located for beauty, and at once charms its visitors. The tourist should engage a carriage and drive up and down the shaded streets, and see the wil- derness of fruit groves and gardens. The fiist practical thing, however, with the traveler is to select his stopping place, during his visit. Of hotels there are two first-class houses that are popular resorts with the traveling public. The Walker House is a four story brick structure with 132 rooms. It is located on the west side of Main Street, has a frontage of 82 feet and a depth of 120 feet. It has lately been entirely renovated and handsomely furnished; also has had the addition of a passenger elevator. It is especially noted for its excellent table, which is abundant in game, fruits, fish, etc. The Con- tinental Hotel (formerly Townsend House) is on the corner of West Temple and South Second streets, and has a fine shady piazza along tho front. Both of these hotels face eastward, both are lighted with gas, and both are supplied with all modern conveniences and luxuries. There are also other good hotels in the city, which are con- sidered second-class, and are largely patronized. Sights for Tourists. Having selected a stopping place, the next thing is a visit to the warm sulphur springs for a bath. Tho stretit 133 OFFICES AND FAMILY RESIDENCE OF BRIGHAM 'YOUNG. cars, running by nearly all the hotels, will take you there. Warm Springs. These are, to invalids, the most grateful and delightful places of resort in the city. Exceedingly valuable either for rheumatic or dyspeptic complaints, they are ex- cellent in general invigorating properties, and specially efficacious in skin diseases. They are but about one mile from the hotel, and can be reached either by horse-cars or carriage, or by a pleasant walk. The best time to enjoy them is early in. the morning before breakfast, or before dinner. The baths never should be taken within three hours after a meal. The springs issue from the limestone rock near the foot of the mountains, and the curious character of the rock is seen in the stones used for either fences or the foundation of the buildings. The following an- alysis has been made of the water by Dr. Charles S. Jackson of Boston, and is generally posted on the walls of the bathing-house. " Three fluid ounces of the water, on evapo- rating to entire dryness in a platine capsule, gave 8.25 grains of solid dry saline matter. Catbonate of lime and magnesia, 0.240 1.280 Peroxide of iron, 0.040 0.209 Lime. 0.545 2.907 Chlorine, 3.454 18.421 Soda. 2.877 18.344 Magnesia, 0.370 2.073 Sulphurs Acid, 0.703 3.748 8.229 43.981 It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid gas, and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleas- ant, saline mineral water, having the valuable properties belonging to a saline sulphur spring. The temperature is lukewarm, and, being of _ sulphurous nature, the effects are very pene- trating ; at first the sensation is delicious, pro- ducing a delightful feeling of ease and re- pose ; but if the bather remains long, over fifteen minutes, there is danger of weakness and too great relaxation. These baths are now un- der control of an experienced gentleman, and fitted up with every modern convenience. Here are Turkish baths, Hot Air baths and Russian baths, in addition to the natural bath. The warm sulphur-water can be enjoyed in private rooms, o* in the large swimming bath. There are separate rooms for ladies and gentlemen, and a smaller building near by is fixed up for the boys, where they can frolic to their heart's content. Mot Springs. The tourist should take 134 carriage, and, after visiting the Warm Springs and enjoying the bath, drive a mile farther north to where the mountain spur juts out to the very railroad and, right at its base are situated the " Hot Springs" which are the greatest natural curiosity of the city. The water boils up, with great force, from a little alcove in the limestone rocks, just even with the surface of the ground. If you dare to thrust your hand in it, you will find it boiling hot, apparently with a temperature of over 200. The finger can not be retained in the water longer than a very few seconds; yet the sensation, as it is withdrawn, is so soft and cool- ing, one would like to try it again and again, and strange to say, rarely wiui unj uovered, ovens erected, and the manufactured article is now delivered at Springville, being hauled nearly 60 miles by wagons. The pro- jected railroad from Springville, will pass up the valley of the Spanish Fork River. The town is located on this river, a little distance from the road. We cross the river soon after leaving the station. A little village called Pontoun, is seen on tha left at the base of Mount Nebo. Payson, 66 miles from the City of the Saints. Iron ore is shipped from here to the smelters, where it is used for fluxing purposes in the reduction of ore. It is hauled some 14 miles by wagons. It is said to bear 60 or 65 per cent, of iron, and is known as brown hematite. At this station and the next, ore and bullion are hauled from the East Tintic Mining District, which is about 22 miles -away. To our right, a mountain rises from the level plain around it, while the lake puts out an arm, as if to clasp it in fond embrace. Between this mountain and Mount Xebo, the road finds its way, and a little farther on, this arm of the lake can be seen west of the mountain. Santaqnin\s the next station, 71 miles from Salt Lake City. Stage lines leave here for the Tintic Mining District on the west. In one year this station received one million tons of the ore. Hei e, as well as at numerous other .itatjons, are noticed the large warehouses , of the Utah Forwarding Company, a corpora- tion which has its chief office at Salt Lake City, and does an immense carrying business, reach- ing out to the farthermost settlements and min- ing camps of Utah. The road now passes through a low depression or valley, which di- vides the Wahsatch and Oquirrh Ranges, and across the divide between Lake Uiah and Juab Valley, by easy grades, and we soon arrive at York 75 miles from tho northern terminus and for several years the southern end of the line, is an unimportant station since the Utah Southern has made its long move southward. Farther down the valley, streams from the mountains come in, water for irrigation can be obtained, and the desert, under the manipu- lations of labor, is made to bud and blossom as the rose. Nephi 90 miles, is where the traveler passes into a beautiful and highly cultivated valley, and beholds the towering form and giant out- lines of Mount Nebo, from the south. It is one of the highest peaks in the Wahsatch range of the Rocky Mountains, and its lofty head, whitened by eternal snows, is frequently obscured by clouds. The elevation of the summit of this mountain is given by the En- gineer Department of the United States Army at 11,922 feet. Nephi contains 2,000 inhabit- ants, and is the point from which stages leave for San Pete, eighty miles east. Judb 105 miles south of Salt Lake City. This is the transfer point for freight and pas- sengers destined for Scipio, twenty-two miles; Fillmore, forty-seven miles, and Corn Creek, sixty miles to the east. Two miles south of Juab is Chicken Lake, known throughout Utah as affording some of the finest duck hunting in the West. Deer are also very plentiful in the mountains near by. At Juab we enter the Savier Desert, and four miles south come to Ssvier River. The desert is only fit for grazing, and the river a sluggish, muddy stream. The line of the Utah South- ern and Castle Valley Railroad, a broad gauge branch of the Utah Southern, is now being finally located from Juab southeast up Sevier River to the Castle Valley coal fields, eighty- five miles distant, and will probably be built before the close of 1881. The Utah Southern line bears to the southwest from Juab, tapping several rich silver and iron mining districts, and at present (June, 1881) extends to Frisco, in the heart of the great Horn silver mining region, 242 miles southwest of Salt Lake City. The line is to be rapidly pushed to the south- west into southern Nevada, and eventually to the Pacific Coast. Through short connecting stage lines it already makes Leeds, St. George, Pioche, and all points in southern Utah and southeastern Nevada easily accessible. 142 143 RESOURCES OF SOUTHERN UTAH. Over 10,000,000 pounds of freight were sent northward from the town of York during the year 1876, and the south-bound freight trans- portation was equally gratifying. It will be very easy for one giving attention to these matters to see that the railway here already grasps at the wealth and plenty of the great Southwest. It is just at the beginning of a new and sunny empire, and needs but to cross to reap the full reward. The people of Utah seem to take greatest pride in the southern portion of their territory, and firmly believe that all the great trade of that portion and of the best silver and gold re- gions of Nevada and Arizona will flow north- ward over their railroads to the Mormon capi- tal, or, by carrying it a little farther, that all the southern borders there will certainly be made tributary to the North and East by the exten- sions of the Utah Southern Bailway, rather than to the western and southwestern coast. With sufficient deference to Pacific slope enter- prise, we all realize that the Eastern commercial centers supply the continent. The greater part of merchandise, mining supplies, etc., for the miners of southern Nevada, formerly went 300 3niles westward past Salt Lake City, then south by indirect roads, for from 250 to 400 miles more. Instead of going westward from Ogden 900 miles to the Pacific coast, and then southeastward 800 miles more to the Arizona settlements, by lines now established, the travel or freight traffic will turn directly southward -via the Utah Central and Utah Southern Branch of the Union Pacific, and reach the same points in a thousand miles less of distance. Indicating the directness and other natural advantages of this route is the fact that the government has already established mail service from St. George, in southern Utah, southward along the Colo- rado river, to Hardy ville, Camp Mohave, Eh- renburg, and Yuma, in Arizona. Large quantities of cotton are already pro- duced under the warm skies of southern Utah, and manafactured into the coarser fabrics by the same unskilled hands which till the fields. Tobacco, rice, almonds, pomegranates, figs, grapes, madder and indigo, with most cereals and vegetables, are among other leading pro- ductions in this favored clime. The valleys are not very extensive, as a rule, but are nu- merous and exceedingly fertile. Stock-raising has become an important branch of industry. Washington and Kane counties are small king- doms in themselves, taking up nearly all the territory known as "Southern Utah." They contain about fifty towns and settlements, which sore noted for their fine fruits and manu- factures of woolen and cotton yarns and fabrics, leather, boots and shoes, syrups, win as, raisins, cabtoi arid other oils and medicines. About every shade of temperature and climate is represented in the different localities, from 114 in the shade to icicles in midsummer. Hunting is excellent everywhere in the moun- tains, and trout streams abound in all sections. Among the nooks rich in natural attractions is Little Zion Valley, which lies near the north fork of the Eio Virgin Eiver, and a few miles east of the St. George Stage Line. The ad- mirable view on another page is only one of the hundreds equally beautiful to be obtained in that romantic locality. Rockville and Zipn are the nearest villages of note, and can easily be reached from BeUevue and other points on the stage road. Mining along this southwestern route is an industry which must assume great proportions in the very near future. Silver ores are found in the mountains on the right at almost every step. AMERICAN FORK CANON. Of this canon, no less a writer than the late Charles Kingsley, Canon of the English Church in London, England, has given the most enthusi astic expression, and declares it " The rival of the Yosemite." It is by far the most wonderful of all the canons which are within convenient access to the Pacific Railroad, and tourists who value sights of grand- eur and sublime rock scenery, must not omit it in their overland tour. In interest, beauty, and as a delightful pleasure trip, it will surpass either Echo, Weber, or Humboldt Canons, and not a little of the joy is attributable to the novel mode of ascent and descent. Taking the cars of the Utah Southern Rail- road at Salt Lake City, proceed southward to American Fork Station ; there a little train is in waiting with narrow gauge cars and locomotive. If the party is large enough for a picnic, so much the better, as often flat cars are added, neatly trimmed with evergreen boughs. The railroad, after leaving the station turns directly toward the mountain range, and gradually ascends for the first six miles, a steady grade of 200 feet to the mile, until just before the mouth of the can- on it reaches 296 feet. Nothing can describe the apparent desolation of sage brush and dry sterile appearance of the soil, but here and th, or Mount Aspinwall. At last the ead of the track is reached at Deer Creek, though tie canon continues six miles or more to the Silver Lake Mine. At Deer Creek, there is a little village with a comfortable inn and store, and a large collection of charcoal kilns. This business is quite large, there being ten pits of brick, which reduce each about 1,100 bushels of charcoal, for which the proprietor gets 25 cents per busheJ, a business of about $50,000 per year is done. The Miller Mine has been estimated exceed- ingly rich, and is owned largely by New York capitalists, who work it steadily. It is said to yield, with lead, over fifty ounces of silver per ton. The American Fork Railroad was built originally to facilitate the carrying of ores, as well as the charcoal, but the grandeur of the scenery has given it a celebrity among tourists, far beyond that of any railroad in Utah. At Deer Creek is a good hotel, The Mountain Glen House, and a lovely picnic grove, pure spring water, and for those of good wind and lovers of ad- venture, an opportunity for mountain climbing. The total length of the canon to this point, is 12 miles, and the total length of the railroad, i? 16 miles, cost about $400,000, and the most solidly built narrow gauge railroad in the United States. The total ascent in elevation for the whole railroad, is nearly 5,000 feet, and 147 the average grade of the railroad is 200 feet. The maximum grade is 296 feet. This is the steepest railroad grade in the United States. Tourists who have enjoyed so fine and glori- ous a ride up the canon hither, will perhaps expect that the return will be tame. They will be most pleasantly surprised and disap- pointed, for it is the grandest of all railroad scenes they will ever witness. Detaching the locomotive from the train, the conductor stands at the little brake, and with- out a signal or help, the little cars of the train quietly start on their downward journey alone. Gliding down with increasing speed, rounding the curves with grand and swinging motion, the breeze fanning your face, and the beautiful pure mountain air stimulating your spirits to the highest limits of exhilaration, your feelings and body are in an intense glow of delight, as the rock scenes, crags and mountain heights come back again in all their sublimity, and your little car, securely held, glides swiftly down the beautiful valley. In no part of the country is there a scene to be compared with this. The entire being is fascinated, and when, at last, the little car turns swiftly into the broad plain, the tourist feels he has left be- hind him a land of delight. The little cars occupy biit one hour in making the descent, and the writer has made the trip in forty min- utes. NOTE. Since the foregoing description was written, the railroad has been discontinued, but the tourist can visit it by horse from American Fork or Alta. Lake Utah. This beautiful sheet of water lies between the Oquirrh and Wahsatch ranges of mountains. These ranges and their foot hills come closely together between Drapers- ville and Lehi, and the Biver Jordan cuts through them there in a narrow gorge or canon. The lake and valley then suddenly burst upon the view of the traveler, and admiration grows into enthusiasm as he contemplates the lovely picture before him. The lake is about thirty miles long and six miles wide, is triangular in shape, and composed of fresh water. Its ele- vation is about 4,482 feet, or nearly 300 feet greater than that of the Great Salt Lake. The railroad goes around the eastern side of the lake, turning an obtuse angle at or near Provo. The lake is fed by Provo Kiver, American Fork, Hobble, Spanish Fork, Peteetneet, Salt and a few other small creeks. Its outlet is the River Jordan, which empties into Great Salt Lake, and supplies water for irrigating the numerous farms in its valley. As before stated, the lake abounds in fish, and on its eastern and northern sides has a large quantity of arable land. Its western shore is not very well watered, only one- or two little creeks putting down into it from the Oquirrh range of mountains. It is well worthy of a visit from the tourist or sportsman. The Utah Western Railroad. This road was first chartered on the 15th of June, 1874, with a capital s,tock of $900,000. The company was mostly composed of Utah men having their residence in Salt* Lake City; John W. Young, a son of Brigham Young, being President, while Heber P. Kimball was Superin- tendent. It has, however, recently passed into the hands of the Utah Central, and will hence- forth be operated as a branch of that line. The same year it was chartered, twelve miles were completed and opened for business on the 12th day of December, and on the 1st of April, 1875, it was completed to Half- Way House, thirteen miles farther. Another extension of fourteen miles was completed in 1877. This last extension carried the road to within one and a half miles of Stockton, a prosperous mining town on the western slope of the Oquirrh range of mountains. Its business on thirty-seven miles of completed road for 1880 was as follows: Freights received, 10,781,854 Ibs.; freights forwarded, 7,958,839 Ibs. It carried 25,000 passengers in 1880, of which 20,000 were visitors to its principal resort, Lake Point. It is a narrow-gauge road (three feet), and has prospects, for an extensive busi- ness in the future. Its general route is west- ward until it passes the southernmost point of the Great Salt Lake, and then southward along the western base of the Oquirrh range, and into the rich mining districts which have been developed on the western slope of tnose moun- tains. Leaving Salt Lake City, on a heavy downward grade of ninety-five feet to the mile, but which is short, the road crosses the Biver Jordan on a common pile bridge. Near the outskirts of the city, the road enters a stretch of uncultivated prairie twelve miles wide by about fifty long. Herds of cattle and sheep alone utilize these rich bottom lands, as some- thing has prevented such a lavish use of water for irrigation as we saw almost everywhere else in the Territory. We were informed that canals could easily be led from Utah Lake, or the Jor- dan, over all this broad area, and no doubt such enterprises will soon be under way. This plain or flat, sometimes thickly covered with sage brush, is the "jack" rabbit's paradise. About every sage bush claims its rabbit, or vice versa. Millstone Point is near the base of the mountains, and eleven and a half miles from Salt Lake City. This place is named from the fact that the first millstones used in grinding grain in Utah were quarried from the moun- tains near this point. The old overland stage road from Salt Lake City to California passes along the line of the road, "as does one line of the Western Union Telegraph Co. to the present ter- minus of the road. The station is of no partic- 148 ular importance, and beyond the incident men- tioned, is without a history. AVe are now at the base of the Oquirrh Range, and the first station of the Old Stage Company where they changed horses is pointed out to the traveler on the south side of the road. Beyond Millstone Point, about two miles on the south side of the track, is a large spring, which furnishes a good supply of water, and which has been utilized by a dairy- man. A little beyond this spring on the same side of the track, there is, in the first point of rocks, quite an extensive cave which a shepherd uses as a shelter for his sheep, during the inclem- ent season of the year. A rail fence with gate surrounds the entrance to the cave, and it is said to be large enough to turn a four horse team and wagon with- o u t difficulty. The extent of the outer part of the cave is about 40 feet, where a huge fallen rock pi'ecludes fur- ther access with- o u t inconven- ience. The lake and its mount- ain islands, and the ranges be- yond, now come grandly into view 011 the north side of the track. The next sta- tion is Slack Rock, 17 1-2 miles from Salt Lake City, a sta- tion named from a rock, dark enough to be called black, rising in the lake about 100 yards from the shore. It is nearly flat on the top, and with a little effort can be easily ascended. Jutting out from the shore, and a short distance from the station, is " Lion's Head " Rock. Beyond this is " Observation Point," from which the Goose Creek Mountains, 145 miles north, can be seen in a clear day, with their white peaks glistening in the sunlight. The northern point of the Oquirrh Range here comes close to the lake, and what seems to be a few scattering trees, or groves of trees, high up on the mountain, contain millions of feet of pine LIONS HEAD ROCK. GREAT SALT LAKE. lumber, if it could only be made available. Right under " Observation Point," on the very edge of the lake shore stands a stone house, formerly kept as a hotel for pleasure seekers, but now the private property of John W. Young, Esq. Whoever occupies it hereafter, can very nearly be " rocked in the cradle of the. deep," or, at least, be lulled to sleep by the murmur of the restless waves. Standing upon " Observation? Point," before you, a little to the left, rises the rock from which the station is named ; beyor d and to the left still, KimbalPs Island rises out-'if the sea twenty-two miles away; while off to the right is Chun;h Island, 14 miles away : they do not look half the distance, b.it the rarified at- m o s p h e r e ol these elevated portions of the Continent is very deceptive as regards vision and distance. Promontory Point on the north shore of the lake is also visible at a distance of about eighty miles. IjttJte Point, 20 miles from the city is the next station and the great resort for excursioxi parties and tour- ists in the sum- mer. Near this station is "Gi- ant's Cave" from which stalactites may be obtain- ed, and other relics, said to be remains of Indians who were conquered a,nd penned in until they died. A personal exam- ination will satisfy the tourist as to the proba- ble truth of this tradition. The company has a large hotel at Lake Point containing 35 rooms for guests, besides other necessarv appurtenances to. a good hotel. A wharf has been built into the lake, beside which, when not employed, the stern wheel steamer, " General Garfield," is moored. This steamer is employed for excur- sion parties and for transporting ore from the islands, and the west side of the lake, to .the railroad. A bathing-house has been erected on the wharf, where conveniences for a salt water bath are kept. The waters of the lake are very dense, and it is almost impossible for bathers to sink. In former times three barrels of water would make by evaporation, one barrel of salt ; now four barrels of water are required to effect the same result. A company has been organized in Salt Lake City, to manufacture salt from the waters of this lake near Millstone Point, and vats are to be erected the present year. An ex- cellent quality can be made and sacked ready for market for $4.50 per ton. Half-Way House 25 miles from Salt 3'jake City, and Tooele Station 37 miles are the next stations and termini of the road. (Jrantviile is one of the richest agricultural towns of Utah. Stages leave here for the min- ing camps on the western slope of the moun- tains, and a large amount of freighting is done, with teams to and from the mines. The station may lose its importance at no very far distant date. There are large springs of fresh water near the station, which sup- ply a flouring mill and woolen factory with power. On the left side of the track, before you reach the station, is "E. T. City " the initials being those of E. T. Benson, who was interested in the town. It is simply a settlement of Mormon far- mers, nestled under the mountains. The woolen factory alluded to is a long, low stone structure, with approved modern ma- chinery, about one and three-fourth miles from the station, north of the track. This route must prove very attractive to trav- elers, and one which will amply reward them in the pleasures it will afford. The rich mining districts of Bush Valley, Ophir and others, are reached by this line of road. Social Life Among the Mormons. Be- yond the limits of Salt Lake City the uniform character of Mormon families is of exceeding plain ways of living, almost all being of very modest means, and even poor. What the better families have gained has been by the hardest and most persistent labor. It is said that when the city was first settled, there was not found over $1,000 in cash for the whole community, and for a long series of years thereafter money was little used, and the people lived and paid for their wants by barter, and a writer facetiously says : " A farmer wishes to purchase a pair of shoes for his wife. He consults the shoemaker, who avers his willingness to furnish the same for one load of wood. He has no wood, but sells a calf for a quantity of adobes, the adobes for an order on the merchant, payable in goods, and the goods and the order for a load of wood, and straightway the matron is shod. " Seven water-melons purchased the price of a ticket of admission to the theater. He paid for the tuition of his children, seventy-five cabbages per quarter. The dressmaker received for her services, four squashes per day. He settled his church dues in sorghum molasses. Two loads of pumpkins paid his annual subscription to fche newspaper. He bought a ' Treatise on Celestial Marriage ' for a load of gravel, and a bottle of soothing syrup for the baby, with a bushel of string beans." In this way, before the advent of the railroad, fully nine-tenths of the business of the Mormon people was conducted. Now barter has given place to actual circulation of money. While there is not what may be called dis- tress or abject poverty in any part of the Mor- mon settlements, yet with many, especially the new emigrants, their means are so limited, and the labor so hard, it would be exceedingly dis- couraging to exist, but for the grand confidence all have in the joys to come promised by their religion and their leader. Except in the cities there is littie or no form of amusement, and the Sabbath is mainly the great day of reunion, when the population turn out en masse to the Tabernacle or other places of worship. In the church services no one knows, until the speaker arises, who is to preach from the pulpit, or what may be the subject. The subjects of sermons, addresses and exhor- tations are as wide as there are books. A writer has laughingly said : " In the Great Tabernacle, one will hear sermons, or advice on the culture of sorghum, upon infant baptism,' upon the best manure for cabbages, upon the perseverance of the Saints, upon the wickedness of skimming milk before its sale, upon the best method of cleaning water ditches, upon bed-bug poison, upon the price of real estate^ upon teething in children, upon the martyrs and persecutions of the Church, terrible denunciations of Gentiles and the enemies of the Mormons, upon olive oil as a cure for measles, upon the ordination of the priesthood^ upon the character of Melchisedec, upon worms in dried peaches, upon abstinence from plug tobacco, upon the crime of fceticide, upon chignons, twenty-five-yard dresses, upon plural marriages, etc." Portions of this are doubtless the extrava- gance of humor, yet it is true every possible thing, secular or spiritual, is discussed from the pulpit which the president thinks necessary for the instruction of the flock. We attended per- sonally one Sunday a Sunday-school celebration in the Tabernacle, where the exercises were en- livened with a spirited delivery of " Marco Boz- arris." "Gay You> g Lochinvar," the singing of " Home, Sweet Home," and the gallery fronts were decorated with gay mottoes, of which there shone in great prominence, " Utah's best chiblren" ' REPRESENTATIVE MORMONS. Woodruff. 2 John Taylor. J. Mayor Daniel H. Wells. 4. W. H. Hooper. 5 President Brigham Young. 6. Orson Pratt. 7. John Sharo. 8. George Q. Cannon. 9. Orson Hyde. 151 The city Mormons are fond of the theater and dancing, and as their president is both the owner of the theater and its largest patron, the Saints consider his example highly judicious and ex- emplary, so the theater is crowded on all occa- sions. We were present, on one occasion, in 1869, when we witnessed over thirty of the children of one of the Mormons sitting in a row in the dwss circle, and the private boxes filled with his wi ves. The most striking event of the evening was when one of the theatrical performers sung this ditty : " If Jim Fisk's rat-and-tan, should have a hull-dog pup, Do you think Louis Napoleon would try to bring him up ? " This elicited tremendous applause, and the per- formers, much to their own laughter and aston- ishment, had to repeat it. A few years afterward, in witnessing a large body of Mormon children singing their school songs we noticed the end of one of their little vevses : " Oh, how happy I ought to ho, For, daddy, I'm a Mormon." As justifying their amusements, the Saints thus say, through one of their authorities : " Dancing is a diversion for which all men and women have a natural fondness." Dancing parties in the city are, therefore, quite frequent, and the most religious man is best en- titled to the biggest amount of fun. Hence their religion should never be dull. " As all people have a fondness for dramatic representations, it is well to so regulate and gov- ern such exhibitions, that they may be instructive and purifying in their tendencies. If the best people absent themselves, the worst will dictate th 3 character of the exercises." Therefore every good Mormon, who can get a little money, indulges in the theater. The Religion, of the Mormons. It is iWit the purpose of this Guide to express opin- ions of the religious aspect of Mormonism ; but, ai% all visitors who come from the East, seeking t3kher from curiosity to gain reliable information, or, having prejudices, expect to gratify them with outbursts of indignation, we can only stand aloof, and explain, calmly and candidly, a few facts as we have found them by actual contact and experience with both Mormons and Gen- tiles, and leave each reader to judge for himself the merits of this vexed question. So thoroughly and implicitly have the masses of the Mormon people been led by their leader, that no one must be surprised to find that they are firm believers and obedient servants to all l;he doctrines and orders of the Church. They be- lieve just as they are told. Whatever, therefore, there is in their life, character and business, industry and enterprise, that is good and praiseworthy, to Brigham Young, their leader, belongs the credit. But for what- ever there is wicked in their religion, life, faith, deeds and church work and for whatever is lacking in good, to the same powerful mind and willful hand, belongs the fearful responsibility. Whether Mormonism be a religion or not yet candor must confess, that if it fails to give and preserve peace, contentment, purity; if it makes its followers ignorant, brutal, supersti- tious, jealous, abusive, defiant ; if it lack gen- tleness, meekness, kindness, courtesy ; if it brings to its homes, sadness and discontent, it cannot be that true religion, which exists alone by sincere trust in Christ and love for heaven. If in all its doctrines, services, sermons, prayers, praise and church work, it fails to give the soul that seeks after rest, the refreshing, comforting peace it needs, it cannot be everlasting. Mormonism has accomplished much in in- dustry, and perseverance, in reclaiming Utah's waste lands and barren plains. It has opened a country, which now is teeming with riches inex- haustible and untold wealth is coming to a scene, once the very type of desolation. We give to the Mormons every worthy praise for their frugality, temperance and hard labor. ND other class of people would have settled here. By patience they have reclaimed a desert, peo- pled a waste, developed hidden treasures, have grown in thrift, and their lives bear witness to their forbearance, and complete trust and faith. How The Mormon Church Influences Visitors. The system of polygamy is not the only great question which affects the future of Utah. More than all things else, it is the Power of the Rulers of the Mormon Church. It is natural that they should make efforts to maintain it by every use of power ; gentleness if that will do the work, coercion if not. It is unfortunate that in the spiritual services of the Church, they fail to impress visitors with proper respect. Their sermons, all eastern travelers have uniformly admitted, were remark- able in the absence of spiritual power. The simple truths of the Gospel rarely ever are dis- cussed, the life of Christ, the Gospel of the New Testament, the " Sermon on the Mount " the Cross are all ignored, the Psalms of David, the life of Daniel, Solomon, and the work of the twelve Apostles are rarely referred to; instead, visitors are compelled to listen to long argu- ments justifying Mormonism and plural mar riage, and expressions of detestation for theii enemies. We heard three of the elders talk at one of their Sabbath meetings, during which the name of Jesus Christ as the Saviour of the world, was scarcely mentioned. One talked of the wonder- ful conversion as he claimed, and baptism of some Lamanites (Indians), not one of whom to- day, can give a single intelligent reason for the course he has adopted. Another told of the time he was a local preacher in the East, of the Methodist Church, and of the trials and persecu- 152 tion they had endured there. The third was quite belligerent in tone, and gave utterance to what might possibly be interpreted as treasonable sentiments against the government of the United States. In the meantime the audience accepted all that was said with apparent relish. We thought of the saying of one of the popular humorists of the day, to the effect that " if that kind of preaching suits that kind of people, it is just the kind of preaching that kind of people likes." Their preachers will often take a text from the sayings of the prophets, and give it a literal interpretation that would grate harshly upon orthodox ears, while the listener would be amused at the ingenuity displayed in twist- ing the word of God making it mean anything desired. It is exceedingly unfortunate for the cause of the Mormons, that such exhibitions of nature are made, the only result of which is to increase the prejudice of all visitors, and tend to grad- ually change the minds of those who would gladly be cordial, but feel they can not. We speak in candor; the efficacy of a religion is judged by its purity of life and speech. A true religion wins admiration from even its enemies. But Mormonism seems never to have made a friend of an enemy, and only returns even deeper resentment. A religion which does not do as Christ com- manded, " Pray for them which persecute you, bless and curse not" but treasures its resent- ments and fulminates its curses continually can it be any religion at all ? Inconsistencies. Another circumstance, one very unfortunate for the Mormons, and al- ways noticed by strangers, is the inconsistency of their history. In the original revelation to Joseph Smith, there was not only no mention of polygamy, but in the Book of Mormon, such a practice was fiercely denounced. In the second chapter of the Book of Mormon, there originally appeared this warning to the Nephites : " Wherefore, hearken unto the word of the Lord, for there shall not any man among you have save it be one wife ; and concubines he shall have none ; for I the Lord God, delightelh in the chastity of woman." The following comments and arguments based on the above, seem absolutely necessary, and im- possible for any one to controvert : 1. If Joseph Smith wrote this under the inspira- tion of the Holy Spirit, then present Mormon prac- tices and doctrines, being wholly different, are not true nor worthy of confidence. 2. If Joseph Smith did not write this under the inspiration of the Almighty, then Joseph Smith did not receive a true revelation, was not' a true Prophet, and what he has written has been entirely unworthy the confidence of his people. 3. If Mormonism since then has found a new revelation totally opposed to the first, then the first must have been false. 4. If the first revelation was false, then the Book of Mormon is wholly false and unreliable, and Joseph Smith was an impostor. 5. If the first revelation ivas true, then (as the decrees of the Almighty once given, never change), the second revelation is not true, nor ever was in- spired by God. 6. As History proves that Joseph Smith received and promulgated both the first and second revela- tions as one of these must be false as no Prophet could ever be falsely led, if instructed by the Al- mighty it follows that Joseph Smith never received a true inspiration, was not a true Prophet that Mormonism is not a revealed religion. Another inconsistency, fatal to the claims of the Mormon religion, is the curious act of Joseph Smith at Nauvoo. On the 12th of July, 1843, Smith received the new revelation. When it was first mentioned, it caused great commotion, and many rebelled against it. A few elders at- tempted to promulgate it, but so fierce was the opposition that at last, for peace, Smith officially made public proclamation against it in the Church paper as follows : NOTICE. As we have lately been credibly informed that an elder of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, by the name of Hiram Brown, has been preaching polygamy and other false and corrupt doctrines in the County of Lapeer and State of Michigan. This is to notify him, and the Church in gen- eral, that he has been cut off from the Church for his iniquity, and he is further notified to appear at the special conference on the 6th of April next, to make answer to these charges. H IS } J***"* f " cl ""-<"- QUERY. What is the world to think of a religion, or a people, when their Prophet falsifies his own record, and denies his own revela- tion f Subsequent history shows that in less than three years from the publication of the above notice, the Mormon leaders were living in open and undisguised polygamy. Would a Prophet who ever received a true revela- tion deny it, punish his followers for observing it, and then practice it for himself f How appropriately the answer is given to this question when one takes up the Mormon Hymn Book, and finds among its verses, used in their church services, the following leading lines : 1. " The God that others worship is not the God for me." 2. " A church without a Prophet is not the church for me." 3. " A church without Apostles is not the church for me." 4. " The hope that Gentiles cherish is not the hope for me." " It has no faith nor knowledge ; far from it I would be." 6. " The heaven of sectarians is not the heaven for me." 153 154 Tlie Great Salt Lal&e stretches off 1 north- ward eighty miles, is about fifty miles wide, and lies 4,200 feet above the ocean. The Oquirrh mountains rise high above the hotel just in the rear ; the west mountain range borders the lake on the west, and far along the northeast shore runs the grand Wahsatch range. Promontory mountains jut far out into the lake from the north, the whole forming a shore-line of singu- lar beauty and magnificence. Antelope, Stans- bury, Hat, Gunnison, Kimball's, Carrington, and Church are the principal islands. The mountains in some of these appear to belong to the same ranges which form the shore-line, and nearly all contain deposits of either the precious or base metals. In many respects this is the most wonderful body of water on the American Continent. It is the chief object of interest in the physical geog- raphy of the great basin in which it is located. Its waters are saline and brackish, unfit for use, and uninhabited by representatives of the finny tribes. Its Discovery. In his report on this lake, Captain Stansbury speaks of a French explorer, with an unpronounceable name, who left the west- ern shores of the great lakes sometime in the seventeenth century, and proceeded westward for an undefined period, and made extensive discov- eries on the Mississippi, Missouri, and other western rivers, and either saw, or heard from the Indians, of the Great Salt Lake. His accounts, however, are somewhat mixed, and not at all sat- isfactory. It is reported that John Jacob Astor fitted out an expedition, in 1820, to cross the Continent, meet a vessel he had sent round Cape Horn, and at some point on the Pacific Coast, form a town which should be to it what New York was to the Atlantic Coast, the greatest commercial emporium of that part of the country. This expedition, it is said, crossed the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's Peak in the Wind River Range, and after reaching the Tetons sep- arated into small parties, each one exploring on its own account. One of these, consisting of four men and commanded by a Mr. Miller, hunted around the vicinity of Snake River and the Soda Springs, finally crossing into Cache Valley, a little north-west of Corinne. It is fur- ther reported that Miller, in one Of his rambles, ascended the mountains south of this valley, and here, for the first time, beheld the waters of the great inland sea spread out before him. He re- turned to his party, and with them proceeded to the lake, and on further inspection concluded it was an arm of the ocean. This was its first dis- covery by white men. The next recorded visita- tion is that of John Bedyer, in 1825, and the next was by Captain Bonneville, in 1831, who saw it from the Red Buttes in the Wahsatch Range, and whose account was written up by i Washington Irving. In 1832, Captain Walker noti first attempted to explore it with a party of forty men. He traveled around the northern and western boundaries, but was compelled to aban- don the undertaking for want of water for his animals and men. Captain Stansbury after- wards explored it, and his report contains the only reliable information concerning this re- markable lake that has been published from official sources, though subsequent observation has revealed many facts and phenomenon con- cerning it which would be highly interesting if they could be collected and given to the world in tangible form. General Fremont also visited this lake, and has given some information about it. Analysis. The only analysis of its waters that we have been able to obtain is that given by Dr. Gale and recorded in Captain Stansbury's report. We quote : " It gives the specific gravity, 1.170; solid contents, 22.422 out of 100 parts. The solid contents when analyzed gave the fol- lowing components : Chloride of sodium, Sulphate of soda, Chloride of magnesium. Chloride of Calcium, a trace. 20.196 1.834 252 Loss, 22.2X2 0.140 22.422 A remarkable thing about this analysis is that the specific gravity, as here given, corresponds exactly with the mean of eight different analyses of the waters of the Dead Sea of Palestine, which is largely above that of the water of the ocean. This analysis reveals what is now generally known, that here is a source from which salt enough can be obtained to supply the Continent. When it is considered, however, that all the streams flowing into this lake are fresh water, draining the water-shed of a large area of country, and discharging from the springs, melt- ing snows and rains of the great basin, an im- mense volume of water, the puzzling question very naturally arises as to the source of this abundant supply of saline matter. The various saline incrustations, however, at various points on the surrounding shores, indicate clearly that some portion of tue earth is saturated with tlds ingredient. Still this lake is without any visi- ble outlet, and with all the great influx of fre:3h water, annually, why does it remain so salty ? The inference naturally follows that it washes some vast bed of rock salt or saline deposit in the bottom of the lake, hitherto undiscovered. At present, however, this is a supposition which may or may not be true. The shores of this lake, especially toward the city bearing the same name, have now been settled nearly thirty years, and it would be strange indeed if tlie changes in elevation which have been gradually going on in this lake should not have been iced. Tho elevation is given at 4,200 feet 155 aoove the level of the sea. The elevation of Salt Lake City is given at 4,351 feet above the sea difference of 151 feet. The figures here given as the elevation of the lake, we think, are based upon observations and calculations made several years ago, perhaps by Captain Stansbury. The observation of the old settlers is, that it is not correct that the lake is from ten to fifteen feet higher now than it was in 1850, and that in proportion as the water rises it becomes less salty. Reliable citizens have informed us that in 1850, three barrels of water evaporated would make one of salt ; now, four barrels of water are required for the same result. This fact leads to the opinion that the humidity of the atmosphere in this region of the Continent is increasing in consequence of which there is less evaporation evaporation being greater and more rapid in a dry than in a moist atmosphere and the failure of evaporation to take up the surplus waters dis- charged into this lake has not only increased its volume and extent, but lessened its saline character. Since the settlement of this Terri- tory, there has been a great increase of rain-fall, so much so that it is noticed and remarked upon by very many of the inhabitants, and the belief is very generally entertained that the Territory is gradually undergoing a great climatic change. Speculations as tQ the Result. The evaporation of the water in the lake growing gradually less, it will, of course, continue to rise and overflow its banks in the lowest places, but no fears need be entertained for the safety of any considerable portion of the country, or the inhabitants thereof. Notice the elevation of Salt Lake City, as herein given, being about 151 feet greater than the lake itself. If the rise continues it will be slower as the covered surface of the adjoining land becomes greater, on the principle that the larger end of a vessel fills more slowly with the same stream, than the smaller end. If it reaches a height of 15 or 20 feet above its present surface, it will first overflow a low, sandy and alkali desert on its western shore, nearly as large as the lake itself. In this case, its evaporating capacity will be nearly doubled in extent a fact which will operate to retard its rise. But if it continues to rise in the years to come until it must have an outlet fco the ocean, that outlet will be the Humboldt River, and a cut of 100 feet or less in the low hills of the divide will give it. Parties who arc well ac- quainted with the nature of the country sur- rounding this great body of salt water, do not agree with the views expressed, that in case its rise continues, its waters will flow into the Humboldt River. They assert that north of Monument Rock is an extensive arm of the lake, now dry, and that the divide between the north- ern extremity of this arm and the Raft River, a tributary of Snake River, is not more than fropi fifty to seventy -five feet high; and that, * the lake rises, this divide will be washed out or a channel may be cut through it into Raft River, and the surplus waters of the lake thus drained into the Pacific Ocean through the Snake and Columbia Rivers. When, however, this event transpires, it will be unless some convulsion of nature intervenes to hasten it after the last reader of this book shall have finished his earthly labors and been quietly laid away to rest. Boundaries and Extent. Looking from Observation Point at the south end of the lake, to the north, it seems to be pretty well di- vided. Promontory Mountains on Antelope Island, those on Stansbury Island and Oquirrh Mountains are evidently parts of the same range running from north to south, parallel with the Wahsatch Range. Their continuity is only broken by the waters in the lake or sink of the great basin. Promontory Mountains divide the northern end of the lake into two parts, or arms, the eastern being called Bear River Bay, and the western, Spring Bay the latter being considerably the largest. The lake has numerous islands, both large and small. Fremont Island lies due west of the mouth of Weber River, and is plainly visible from the cars of the Utah Cen- tral Railroad. South of it and nearest to Salt Lake City, is Antelope Island. West of Ante- lope, and north-west from Lake Point, is Stans- bury Island. A little north-west of this, is Car- rington Island. North of these still, and in the western part of the lake are Hat, Gunnison and Dolphin Islands. Nearly south of Gunnison Island is a high promontory jutting out into the lake called Strong's Knob ; it is a prominent landmark on the western shore of the lake. Travelers on the Central Pacific Road can ob- tain a fine view of this great inland sea, near Monument Station. The extreme length of the lake is about 80 miles, and its extreme width, a little south of the 41st parallel of latitude, is about 50 miles. Promontory Mountains project into the lake from the north about 30 miles. Nearly all the islands we have named are rich in minerals, such as copper, silver, gold and iron. Excellent quarries of slate have also been opened, but neither it nor the mines have been developed to any great extent, because of the want of cap- ital. Incidents and Curiosities. When Col- onel Fremont first explored the lake in 1843, it is related by Jessie, his wife, that when his boat first touched the shore of Fremont Island, an oarsman in the bow of the boat was about to jump ashore, when Kit Carson, the guide, insisted that Colonel Fremont should first land and name the island, " Fremont Island." Tonic Properties. A bath in the water of the Great Salt Lake, is one of the greatest delights a tourist can seek. We have per- sonally indulged in its pleasure, and it is beyond question a splendid recreation. Upon the 156 wharf near Lake Point, is a cozy bathing-house, wherein are bathing-suits, and large tubs filled with fresh water ; donning the suits, you descend the steps and jump into the water. You are surprised at the buoyancy of it. The most vigorous effort and plunge will not keep your body under the surface. Clasping your hands and feet in the water, you can sit on its bosom with head and shoulders projecting above the surface, and even then for but a short period, as the buoyancy of the water soon has a tendency to tip you over on your side. It is impossible to stand erect in the water, no matter how straight or rigid you place your limbs, in a moment over goes your head, and up come your feet. Lying on your back, or side, or face, in any position still you will always keep at the surface. But beyond this curious feature of impossibility of sinking, there is the better quality of the toning and invigorating properties of the bath. These are beyond all question, the finest of any spring along the Overland Route. In some warm summer day, take your bath in the lake, spend, say half au hour in its water, and then returning to your bath-house, cleanse your skin from all saline material, which may adhere, by plentiful ablutions of pure water from the tubs, wash the hair and face thoroughly, then dress and walk up and down the wharf, or the cool piazza of the hotel, and you are astonished at the wonderful amount of strength and invig- oration given to your system, and with greater elasticity than ever you have possessed before, it seems like the commencement of a new life. Invalids should never fail to visit this lake, and enjoy its bath. Tourists who omit it, will leave behind them the greatest curiosity of the Overland Tour, and it is no great effort of the imagination to conceive this fully the rival of the great ocean in all that can contribute to the attractions of sea-shore life. The cool breeze and delicious bath are all here. In the summer time the excursion rates from Salt Lake City, are $1.50 per ticket, which in- cludes passage both ways over the Utah Western Railroad, a ride on the steamer on the lake, and the privilege of a bath, the cheapest and most useful enjoyment in the entire Territory. The only life in or near the lake, is seen in the summer time by immense masses of little insects (astemia fertiliso,) which live on the surface of the lake, and thrive on its brine. These masses stretch out in curious forms over the surface. Sometimes, when small, they appear like a serpent, at other times like rings, globes, and other irregular figures. A gentle breeze will never disturb them, for their presence keeps the water a dead calm as if oil had been poured upon it. If disturbed by a boat passing through the mass, millions of little gnats or flies arise and swarm all over the vessel anything but agreeable. Professor Spencer M. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institute, Washington, believes the lake may yet sustain fish and other animal life. There seems to be plenty of insect food al- ways on the surface, occasionally with high winds, the surface of the lake is driven into waves, which dashing against the shore, shower the sage brushes near with salty incrustations, which, when dried in the sunlight, give a bright, glittering and pearly appearance, often furnish- ing splendid specimens for mineral cabinets. Atmosphere. The atmosphere which sur- rounds the lake, is a curiosity, always bluish and hazy from the effects of the active evaporation, in decided contrast to the purity and trans- parency of the air elsewhere. Surveyors say that it is difficult to use telescopes, and astro- nomical observations are imperfect. The solid ingredients of the water have six and one-half times the density of those of the ocean, and wherever washed upon the shore, the salt dried, after evaporation,' can be easily shoveled up into buckets and bags. Burton describes a beautiful sunset scene upon the lake. " We turned our faces eastward as the sun was declining. The view had memo- rable beauties. From the blue and purple clouds, gorgeously edged with celestial fire, shot up a fan of penciled and colored light, extending half- way to the zenith, while in the south and south- east lightnings played among the darker mist masses, which backed the golden and emerald bench-lands of the farther valley. The splendid sunset gave a reflex of its loveliness upon the alkaline barrens around us. Opposite rose the Wahsatch Mountains, vast and voluminous, in stern and gloomy grandeur, northward the thin white vapors rising from the hot springs, and the dark swells of the lake." The Great Desert West of Salt Lake City. The overland stage, which traversed westward, followed a route immediately south of Salt Lake, and passed for several hundred miles through a desert, beside which the Humboldt Valley had no comparison in tediousness and dis- comfort. Captain Stansbury, an early explorer, in describing this section, describes large tracts of land covered with an incrustation of salt : " The first part of the plains consisted simply of dried mud, with small crystals of salt scat- tered thickly over the surface ; crossing this, we came upon another portion of it, three miles in width, where the ground was entirely covered with a thin layer of salt in a state of deliques- cence, and of so soft consistence, that the feet of our mules sank at eveiy step into the mud be- neath. But we soon came upon a portion of the plains where the salt lay in a solid state, in one unbroken sheet, extending apparently to its western border. So firm and strong was this unique and snowy floor, that it sustained the weight of our entire train without in the least giving way, or cracking beneath the pressure. 157 Our mules walked upon it as upon a sheet of solid ice. /The whole field was crossed by a net- work of little ridges, projecting about half an inch, as if the salt had expanded in the process of crystallization. ' I estimated this field to be, at least, seven miles wide and ten miles in length. The salt which was very pure and white, aver- aged from one-half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and was equal in all respects to our finest specimen for table use. Assuming these data, the quantity that here lay upon the ground in one body, exclusive of that already dis- solved, amounted to over 4,500,000 cubic yards, or about 100,000,000 bushels," And even this small area, is but a very little portion of the whole region, farther northward and westward. The Wonders of Montana. This new territory possesses very many re- markable features of wonderful scenery, agri- cultural wealth and mineral richness. In a few years it will be as famous and popular as Col- orado. Its Indian name is Tay-a-he-shock-up, or " Country of the Mountains." To a larger extent than any Western Territory it is traversed by great rivers. The Missouri and Columbia with all their tributaries each possess nearly 2,000 miles of water, largely navigable within its bor- ders, and with the Yellowstone, any of them are larger than the Ohio River at Pittsburgh. Probably no state in America is as finely watered. The valleys of these rivers are won- derfully beautiful, usually a dozen miles in width or more, and all arable land. Were the fertile land of Montana placed by itself, it would form a country four miles wide and 4,000 long. In addition to these valley lands, the sloping sides of the mountains are the natural home for grazing immense herds of cattle. The grass land and pastures of the Territory, being more famous in richness than any Territory of the Union. The climate is very mild, although never as warm as in territories farther south, yet far more even and equable. In winter constant sunshine. The snow-fall is not as large as Michigan or Minnesota, and by actual test, the number of tine days in one year was 291, or 100 more than the average of Chicago or Philadelphia. The average winter temperature is from 25 to 44, which being in a dry climate is equal to that of 35 to 55 in an Eastern State. The average temperature for a year is 48. The highest ex- treme of heat for six years was 94 and low- est 19 which is less than any Eastern State, while the spring season opens a month earlier than at Omaha. These peculiarities of climate are due to the influence of the mildness of the winds of the Pacific Ocean, which blow across Oregon, and up the valley of the Columbia, and so moderate the climate of this region that, while most northern in location, yet it is equal in mildness to one nearly 1,000 miles south. There are 16,000,000 acres of land suited for culture and less than 500,000 occupied, the last crops bring- ing about $3,000,000 in value. The Territory is 550 miles long, east and west, and 300 miles wide from north to south. It is three times the size of New York, twice the size of the whole of New England, and will more than take Ohio and Indiana together within its borders. Stock raising in Montana is attended with the greatest ease. A $30 Montana steer, costs but $3 to raise, and while the mines continue to increase in productiveness, the demand for all farm and dairy products will be very great. Montana is filled full with riches of gold, sil- ver, iron, lead, copper, etc. Coal is extremely abundant. The entire mineral vield of the Ter. ritory to the present time is $145,000,000. The financial condition is extremely lucrative. The average wealth of the people is $450, for every man, woman and child the highest of any Western Territory. Its entire productions last year were $16,000,000. The freight, etc., paid for merchandise passing to and from its principal cities exceeded $10,000,000. The transportation business is immense, giving em- ployment to over 2,500 wagons, 8,500 animals, 1,400 men, and an invested capital of $1,500,000, and the imports and exports exceed yearly 800,000,000 pounds or 40,000 tons. Employ- ment is abundant, living cheap, no one is poor for a Poor Man's Paradise, there is no home like one in Montana. The average elevation of the Territory is 4,000 feet above the sea, half that of Colorado. It is unlike Utah or Nevada, in that the country is generally green, while the others are dry most of the year. Utah and Nortliern Branch Union Pacific Railway, . or the New Route to Montana and tlie Yelloivstone. This new railroad has been lately pushed rapidly north- ward from Ogden, Utah, toward Montana. It is now (June, 1881) completed to Melrose, Montana, 380 miles north of Ogden, and only thirty-five miles south of Butte, sixty-five south of Deer Lodge, and seventy-five south of Helena, all of which points it \vill probably reach during 1881. Upon this road are several points of very great interest, worth the special visit, of tourists for one or two days. The road after leaving Ogden runs for a number of miles close to the foot of the Wahsatch Mountains. On its way it passes a sulphur spring (Hot Spring station) where arises a dense cloud of vapor. The first town is Willard, a little village srith 2,000 inhabitants, the county -seat of Box 158 Elder County. The road passes within about six miles of Corinne, and the terminus was for- merly there. There are no large towns to in- terest the traveler, but reaching the Summit, four miles from Collinston, there the road gradually rises above the valley upward to the mountain range, giving grand views of the Great Salt Lake and its islands, with the orch- ards and grain fields below. A backward look reveals the glories of the mountains. Beach- ing the Summit, there is a glorious view of an interior valley of the Bear Biver, with its vil- lages and distant views of canons and peaks. The road then descends rapidly into the Cache Valley. The land is remarkably rich and well irrigated. Near Logan is a high plateau 300 feet above the town, whence a fine view of the valley is obtained, and over fourteen Mormon villages seen, surrounded with a series of moun- tains capped with snow. The scene is most picturesque. Logan is the county-seat of Cache County, and the metropolis of the valley. Its popula- tion is 3,000. Here is to be a magnificent Mormon temple, 171 feet long, 95 wide, and 86 high, with a tower rising up 144 feet. The whole to cost half a million. Logan Val- ley has a population of about 15,000. Hyde Park is a town of 800, Smithfield 1,200, and Richmond 1,200 (Lewiston 400, four miles from the road), and all are well supplied with irrigating ditches, and lovely in appear- ance. Franklin is in Idaho, one mile north of the Utah line, a village of 500 inhabitants, and forty miles from Malad City, the shiretown of Oneida County. Battle Creek keeps alive the memory of General Connor's fight with the Shoshone In- dians in 1863-64, when, in the perils of snow two feet deep, he left but few to fight again. Oxford and, Swan Lake are unimportant but the latter is an evidence of good sport for the gunner. Game is abundant in all the val- leys, and swan, ducks and geese on the lake. After Nine Mile station comes Oneida, and near Oneida, and thirty miles distant, are the famous Soda Springs of Idaho, which can now be reached by stage. This is a place where most remarkable cures have been effected. Passing Belle Marsh, Portneuf, Pocatelle and Ross Fork, we arrive at Blackfoot, a mile south- east of the Snake Biver and a mile north of the Blackfoot Biver. The broad p?ain is cov- ered with sage. Here is the eating-station for passengers. New Fort Hall is eight miles dis- tant. Riverside, Eagle Rock, Market Lake and Law>. are unimportant, and so is Camas, except that it is the stage station for Salmon City. Dry Creek, High Btidge, China Point, Beaver Canon, Pleasant Valley, Monida, Wil- liams, Spring Hill, Red Reck, Grayling and Dillon are all of little importance, except that Dillon, the present terminus, is the stage station for the Yellowstone National Park. Helena City is about 500 miles north from Ogden, and has a population of 5,000. Its tax- able wealth is $2.000,000 a beautiful city. Its business is very large. The three banks often exceed transactions of $300,000 per day. Sev- eral grocery firms each do business of over one million dollars per annum, and h&lf a million dollars are paid for freight coming here. Virginia City has about 1,000 inhabitants elevation, 5,713 feet very enterprising. A beautiful spring upon the mountain-side flows through pipes into the place, which is there supplied at no cost to the people, who improve its use for pretty flower gardens and fruit farn?.s. It is the principal outfitting place for the Yel- lowstone Park, distant 100 miles. A fine wagon road extends the entire distance, and stages nin regularly in summer. JBozeman is beautifully located, surround* id by mountains abruptly rising above the vallej. Population 1200; has many elegant residences. From here is an excellent route to the Yellow- stone Park, about 100 miles away. Near Boz(i- man also are other places of attraction to tourists: Mystic Lake, distance 14 miles; Lund's Hot Springs, 8 miles; Bock Canon, 5 miles: Bridger Canon, 3 miles; Bear Canon an canon. At the bottom 106 of the chasm is the river, boiling and surging as it goes. The descent to the edge is best accom- plished on the eastern side. Reaching the bot- tom, we hear nothing save the distant thunder of the fall and the roaring of the water as the furi- ously agitated waves dash against the solid rock at our feet, seeming to pro- test against their impris- onment. At the top, the tall pines form a green margin to the rocky walls. On the right side near the verge of the wall, is a collection of springs, mostly mud springs, in which the mud is of vary- ing consistency. At the head of the canon, are the Lower or Great Falls of the Yellow- stone. Long before we reach the brink, we hear the suppressed roar, resembling distant thun- der. The best views are obtained from a point on the canon wall, a quarter of a mile far- ther down, and from the brink of the precipice over which the river plunges. Let us approach and look over. Down, down goes the whirl- ing mass, writhing and battling with the rocks, against which it dashes with a noise like the dis- charge of heavy artillery. Here and there, a resisting rock is met, and the water rebounds, broken into myriads of drops, which throw back to us the sunlight resolved into its primi- tive colors. The bottom reached, the column breaks into an immense cloud of spray, whose moisture nourishes the vegetation on the walls near the fall. The river, before it pours over the edge, narrows to about a hundred feet. The height of the fall has been variously given. The measurement with a line in 1870, gave 350 feet as the result. Triangulation from a base line on the edge of the canon, by the Geological Survey in 1872, made it 397 feet, and a barometrical measurement in 1873, by Captain Jones, made it 328.7 feet. Th i Upper Falls are about a quarter of a mile > " ** ***- J ^ - : ^ "* I fff^~ ASCENDING THE OLAC1E11S OK ill'. H 167 LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. nbove the Lower Falls. Between them, the river is in a canon whose depth is from 100 to 300 feet. Near the Lower Falls it is a succes- sion of rapids. The two falls are very unlike, but equally interesting, the Upper perhaps not possessing as much of grandeur as the Lower. The height of f he former is 140 feet. The river above is broken into rapids, and, reaching the edge, the entire volume of waJber seems to be hurled off the precipice with terrific force, so that the mass is broken into most beautiful snow-white drops, presenting, at a distance, the appearance of snowy foam. Midway in its descent a ledge of rock is met with, which car- 168 ries it away from the vertical base of the preci- pice. The water has worn a circular basin in the hard rock. From any point, the view is striking and picturesque. What it lacks in sub- limity is compensated for by its beauty. Crater Hills and Mud Volcanoes. Leaving the falls, the trail leads us up the river, and soon brings us out into a level prairie country, through which the Yellowstone flows peacefully between low, verdant banks, and over pebbly bottoms, or treacherous quicksands, giving no intimation of its struggles below. We seem to have left everything terrific and diabolic behind us. Stopping to drink at a beautiful looking creek, we find it impregnated with alum. This is Alum Creek, which has its source in the springs about Crater Hills, six miles above the falls. The best camping place will be found three miles farther on, at Mud Volcanoes, from which point the springs in this part of the valley can be visited. They are found on both sides of the river. At the head of some of the branches of Warm Spring Creek, are sulphur and mud springs, and on the eastern side. ** the river, numerous mud springs are found. Crossing Alum Creek, we soon find ourselves At Crater Hills, two high conical white hills, about 200 feet high, around the base of which are hot springs and steam jets. One of the latter is called the " Locomotive Jet " from the ooise made by the escaping steam. The princi- pal spring is the "Boiling Sulphur Spring." It is about 12 feet in diameter, and encircled by a beautifully encrusted collar-like rim. The water is constantly agitated, rising from three to four feet above the basin like some huge caldron. Crossing through a narrow belt of timber, a short distance east of this spring, we come upon a group of active mud and sulphur springs, all tasting strongly of alum. The noise made by the boiling mud, the scream of the steam jets, the plop-plop of the smaller mud-pots, the puffing and throbbing of the larger ones, and the sul- phurous odors that fill the air, combined with the treacherous nature of the ground beneath us,, give rise to feelings that are difficult to analyze. At Mud Volcanoes, we find new wonders in the "Devil's Caldron," "The Grotto," "The Mud Geyser," and a host of smaller springs. The presence of the "Caldron," is made known by the immense column of steam, which is continually rising from it. It is on the side of a low hill. The steam generally obscures the view of the seething mass of blackish mud, which is 20 feet below the surface. The trees all about the crater, are coated with mud which it is supposed has been ejected during an erup- tion of this mud geyser. It does not boil with an impulse like most of the mud springs, but with a constant roar that shakos the ground and may be heard at a considerable distance. About 200 yards from the " Caldron " at the head of the rivulet, which drains the group of springs, is the " Grotto." It is a sort of cave in the rock. The orifice is about 15 feet high, and slopes gradually inward for about 20 feet. From this cavern at regular intervals of a few seconds, there bursts forth a mass of steam, with a pulsation that causes the earth to throb, while a small stream, clear as crystal, but absurdly disproportionate to the amount of noise, flows from the mouth of the cavern. The steam is so hot, that only when the breeze wafts it aside, can we look into the opening. The " Muddy Geyser " has a funnel-shaped basin, 60 feet in diameter, which is in the midst of a basin measuring 200 feet by 150 feet with sloping sides of clay and sand. The flow takes place at intervals of from four to six hours, last- ing from twelve to sixteen minutes each. The water, mingled with mud, rises gradually until the basin is filled to the level of the brim, when a slight bubbling commences near the center. Suddenly it is thrown into violent confusion, and an irregular mass of lead colored mud and water is thrown into the air with irregular pul- sations. The height attained is 15 to 40 feet. At the end of the eruption the water sinks into the funnel-shaped orifice, to go through the same operation in a few hours. From Mud Volcanoes we can go either to the Geyser Basins of Fire Hole River, or to Yellow- stone Lake. To the former, the distance is about 19 miles and to the latter, only a little over seven miles. A trail is found on both sides of the river and late in the season the river is easily forded. The trail on the eastern side will lead us to Pelican Creek, Steamboat Point, and Brim- stone Basin on the eastern side of the lake, from which we can go around the southern bays to the Hot Springs, on the south-west arm of the lake, to which the trail on the western side of the river will also lead us. There are several in- teresting Mud Springs, opposite Mud Volcanoes, on the east side of the Yellowstone. Yellowstone Lake. This beautiful sheet of water is more than twenty miles in length and fifteen in width. Its form has not Inaptly been compared to that of an outspread hand the northern or main body representing the palm, while the south-western bay re] .resents the thumb considerably swollen, the other bays cor- responding to the 'fingers, two being small, and the others disproportionately large. The elevation of the lake, from measurements made by the United States Geological Survey, is 7,427 feet above sea level. Its depth is from one and a half to fifty fathoms. Its shore line measures over three hundred miles, presenting some of the loveliest shore lines, especially at Mary's Bay on the east side, south of Steamboat Point. Here, also, is Diamond Beach, a brond and level sand beach extending for five miles. 169 The sand is composed of particles of obsidian (volcanic glass) quartz, and chalcedonies that sparkle in the sunlight. The western side of the lake is covered with *?ine forests, as is the southern end, where also there ai'e many lakelets, and considerable marshy ground. There are no high mountains in this direction, low, broad hills forming the water-shed between the lake and the sources of Snake River. One can cross almost anywhere tp the Shoshone Geyser Basin. The eastern side of the lake is also well wooded, but more broken by snvall open prairies. The country on this side soon rises into a grand mountain range from which numerous volcanic peaks rise. Prominent among them are Mts. Stevenson and Doane. The interesting localities of the lake on the eaatern side are " Brimstone Basin," " Steam Point " and " Steamboat Springs, " " Turbid Lake" and the Springs of Pelican Creek and Sulphur Hills. On the south-western arm also, characteristic, notwithstanding the name. The period of greatest activity of all the springs here is past, and they are gradually dying out. The springs on the shore of the south-western arm of the lake, occupy an area of about three miles in length, and half a mile in width. There are no geysers. Some of the springs are found in conical, siliceous mounds, rising from the water of the lake near the shore. One of these is named the "Fish Pot," from the fact that while standing on its crater, one may extend his fishing-rod, catch trout, and turning, may cook them in the spring. About four hundred yards from the shore is a basin of boiling, pink-colored mud with conical mud craters, from which the mud is ejected. There are also a number of clear, flowing springs of hot water, and numerous springs of boiling, muddy water varying in color from white to dark yellow. The next point of interest after Yellowstone Lake is the Geyser Region of Fire Hole River, or YELLOWSTONE LAKE. is an interesting group of springs. " Brimstone Basin " is south-east of Steam Point, and marks the seat of once active springs, evidenced bv the deposits. The stream flowing through them is strongly impregnated with alum. At Steam Point, besides the springs, are several steam jets. From one the steam escapes with a noise resem- bling that made by the escape of steam from a large steamboat. Others resemble the e?cape of steam from the cylinders of a locomotive. Springs are found on the shore of the lake be- tween Steam Point and Pelican Creek and along the course of the latter stream. At Turbid Lake, two miles east of the lake and back of Steam Point, the springs are mud springs and sulphur vents. The water of the lake itself is made turbid by the springs in its midst and on the shores. Sulphur Hills are between Pelican Ci'eek and the Yellowstone. Sulphur is not the Upper Madison. From the group of springs, a trail, striking nearly due west, will bring us to the head of the " Upper Geyser Basin," a dis- tance of about fifteen miles. We may also keep more to the south and visit the geysers of Sho- shone Lake, on the way, or we may return to Mud Volcanoes and cross to the East Fork of Fire Hole River, and visit the "Lower Geyser Basin " first, which is, perhaps, the best course, as the springs of the Lower Basin will seem less interesting after the greater wonders of the Upper Basin have been seen. Gei/ser Basins of Fire Hole River. The geyser basins of the Upper Madison in- clude, altogether, about seventy-five square miles. In this area are thousands of springs and gey- sers, ranging in temperature from the boiling point to cold. Their description would occupy the space of a volume. Only the salient feature* 170 can be given here. The springs are divisible into three classes : 1st. True geysers which are agitated at stated intervals, and from which the water is projected. 2d. Those which are con- stantly agitated or always boiling. They rarely have eruptions ; most of the mud springs can also be included under this division. 3d. Those which are always tranquil. In the latter, the water is generally of a lower temperature, and has a beautiful blue color, or often a green tint like that of the beryl. In springs of the very lowest temperatures there is often a low form of gelatinous vegetable growth. Some of the springs of the Lower Basin merit the title of small lakes. They are divided on the maps into eight groups. The first is on the East Fork; the second is about a mile farther to the south, and the third, fourth, and fifth groups still farther south on the east side of the basin. In the third group are the Fountain Geyser, and the Mud Puffs, both worthy a visit. In the fifth group is the Architectural Geyser, probably the most powerful in the "Lower Basin." The sixth group is on the main river above the mouth of Fairy Fall Creek, the seventh is on the latter stream, and the eighth on Sentinel Creek, a stream joining the Fire Hole below Fairy Fall Creek. There are but about half a dozen real geysers in the Lower Basin, but craters are seen which must once have been active spouters. The deposits are siliceous, as is the case with the Up- per Basin. There are many places where the springs are extinct, nothing remaining save the glaring white sediment. The scalloped rims ex- tending out over the water, like cakes of ice, and the corrugated sides of the basins are exceedingly beautiful. Before leaving the Lower Basin, we must visit Fairy Falls, a very pretty miniature cascade at the head of Fairy Fall Creek. From the mouth of the latter creek, to the mouth of Iron Spring Creek, which marks the lower bound- ary of the Upper Basin, the distance is five miles in an air line. About midway are the Half- way Springs. The principal one is a huge cal- dron, 250 feet in diameter, with walls about 20 feet high. It is in constant agitation, giving off clouds of steam. On one side, the wall is broken down, and thence the surplus water flows into the river, through numerous channels whose beds are lined with scarlet, yellow, and green, which contrast boldly with the white siliceous sinter surrounding the spring. Farther back from the river, on a slight eminence, is an almost circular spring, 150 feet in diameter. The journey from one basin to the other is suggestive of the infernal regions. The trail keeps near the river, which is warm, fed as it is by so many hot streams. The ground sounds hollow under foot. We wind in and out among holes from which steam and sulphurous odors escape, past great yawning caverns and cisterns of bubbling, seething water and mud. The air is full of strange noises, and we feel as though we were on dangerous ground, through which we may break at any moment and descend to flames beneath. Again we pass pools of trans- lucent water, in whose azure depths we can not see the bottom of the siliceous basins. We also cross boiling streams which flow over hard beds colored green, yellow, and red, from the deposition of mineral ingredients by the evaporation of the water. Upjter Geyser Basin. The Upper Geyser Basin has been called the Great Basin, because it contains the principal geysers. It is about two miles long, and will probably average half a mile in width. The best view is obtained from the crater of " Old Faithful," at the upper end. Through the Lower Basin the course of the river is almost due north, while in the upper, it flows west of north. Its banks are made of geyserite, the siliceous deposit of the springs, which is literally honeycombed with springs, pools and geysers, that are constantly gurgling, spit- ting, steaming, roaring, and exploding. To de- scribe all the geysers would require more space than can be spared, and I will therefore refer only to the principal ones, hoping the reader will take the trip and see the wonders of the Yellow- stone for himself, which is really the only way in which they can be appreciated, for any de- scription must always fall short of the reality. Entering the Upper Basin from the north, we pass a series of rapids at the upper end of which we enter the gateway, as it were, guarded by two sentinel geysers, one on either side of the river; that on the left being the most active. Following the river for about two hundred and fifty yards, we reach the " Fan Geyser," where there are several orifices from which the water radiates, the streams crossing each other and producing a fan-shaped eruption. A short dis- tance above, on the opposite side of the river, is the " Grotto Geyser " which is easily recognized by the peculiar form of its crater, from which it takes its name. There are two orifices, the principal one being in the larger and more irreg- ular mound, which is eight feet high, while the smaller one is only four feet high. The inter- val between its eruptions is unknown. It throws a column of water and steam from 40 to 60 feet above its crater. Several hundred yards farther back from the river, south-west from the " Grotto," are the " Pyramid," " Punch Bowl," " Bath Tub," and " Black Sand " Geysers. The " Giant " is about 400 feet south-east of the "Grotto." It has a rough, cone-like crater, ten feet high, with one side broken down. The orifice from which the water is expelled is about five feet in diameter. This curious crater is near the river's edge, on a platform of deposit measur- ing 342 yards in circumference. It has seldom been seen in eruption. T "njrford gives the height as 140 feet in 1870. It was also seen in action in 1874, but the height was not measured. Following up the river on the south-west side, we next stop at the " Castle." It is a cone, ris- ing a little over 11 feet above an irregular plat- form of sinter, that measures 75 by 100 feet, and is three feet high. The orifice of the geyser tube is three feet in diameter, and circular, and its throat is lined with large orange-colored globular masses. In 1870, its eruption threw a column of water 140 feet above its crater, con- tinuing three hours. In 1872, the maximum height observed was 93 feet and the duration fifteen minutes, after which steam escaped with a pulsating movement, the whole display lasting about an hour and twenty minutes. In 1874, the same succession of water and steam was noticed, the former lasting twenty minutes, and attaining an estimated height of 250 feet, and the latter lasting about forty minutes longer. The noise of the eruption is indescribable. Im- agine a gigantic pot with a thunder-storm in its stomach, and to the noises of elemental war, add the shrieking of steam pipes and you will have a faint idea of it. After the eruption, the ex- hausted geyser sinks into complete repose. Near the " Castle " is a beautiful blue hot spring, which has been given the fanciful name of " Circes Voudoir." The water is perfectly trans- parent, and so intensely blue that you involun- tarily plunge your hand in to see if it is water. The basin is of pure white silica, looking like marble. It is about 20 feet in diameter, and has a beautiful and regular scalloped margin. The white basin slopes to a funnel-shaped opening which is 40 feet deep, and here the water is in- tensely blue, its temperature 180 Fahrenheit. " Old Faithful," standing at the head of the valley, is so named from the regularity of its spouting. Its mouth is six feet by two, in a siliceous mound that rises 11 feet above the gen- eral level. On this mound are small basins whose edges are ornamented with bead-like silica. The eruptions commence with a few abortive attempts, followed by a rapid succession of jets which soon reach the maximum, and then sub- side, only steam escaping from the orifice. The average interval between the eruptions observed in 1872, was one hour, two and three-quarter minutes, and the average duration four minutes, fifty-three seconds. As observed by Captain Jones' party in 1873, the interval was fifty- six minutes and forty seconds, and the dura- tion four minutes and thirty-three and one-half seconds. The height of the column was esti- mated at nearly 150 feet. The greatest height measured in 1872, out of seventeen eruptions, was 130 feet. The " Bee Hive " is on the op- posite side of the river, nearly due north of " Old Faithful," and about 300 yards distant. It is nsar the river and readily recognized by its cone three feet high, and about three feet in pro- The diameter. From this cone the water is jected with great force in a steady stream, column is fan shaped. No water falls back, but it seems to be all resolved into vapor. The length of the eruptions is from four to fifteen minutes, and the interval unknown. The col- umn rises from 100 to 250 feet. Two hundred yards back of the Bee Hive, is the " Giantess," which has a large basin 23 by 32 feet. It is on the summit of a gently sloping siliceous mound. Its eruptions are very irregu- lar. They last from 8 to 18 minutes. The only eruption measured in 1872, was 69 feet. An immense mass of water was thrown up. Other estimates have given the height as 60, 200, and 250 feet. Farthe- down the river and opposite the castle, froir wnich it is distant 460 yards, is the "Grand Geyser." One would scarcely take it for an important geyser, unless he witnessed one of its spoutings ; for, unlike the others, it has no raised crater. Its basin which is 52 feet in diameter, is depressed a foot below the general level. The mouth of the geyser tube in the cen- ter, measures four feet by two feet, and from this, about once in 24 hours, a column is thrown to the height of from 175 feet to 250 feet. The eruption generally consists of three periods, after each of which the water sinks completely out of sight. Near the " Grand " are the " Saw Mill " and the "Turban." The latter is only a few feet from the " Grand," and will be known by the globular masses that look like huge squashes, and are easily seen lining the sides and bottom of the crater when the water has di:^ppeared from the basin. The eruptions are unimportant. Still farther down the river, and nearly opposite the "Grotto," is the "Riverside" which brings us back nearly to the place we started. A visit to Iron Spring Creek, is well worth taking. Near its mouth, on the north side, is the " Soda Geysers " group. Fair camps are easily found in the " Lower Geyser Basin." In the " Upper Basin," a good camp for a small party is in a grove near the " Castle." An- other is found about a quarter of a mile higher up. The trail to. the " Shoshone Geyser Basin " leads up the Fire Hole River, and a short distance above the " Upper Basin," we pasa a fall 60 feet high, that is worthy a visit from all who would see the beauties as well as the wonders of the region. It somewhat resembles the Middle Fall at Trenton, New York. Above the falls, the trail crosses the river to avoid swampy ground, and keeps on the bounding ridge of hills on the west. The narrow valley expands, and we soon enter a third geyser basin with seveial groups of springs, and one geyser called the " Solitary." It has a dome-shaped mound, 15 feet in diam- eter and 11 to 14 feet high, covered with elegant SCENES IN THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. '..Jupiter's B:itb and Soda Mountain. 2. Valley of (he Yf pearly b e a d-work, and striped vertically with bands of white, dark green, brownish black, arid vari- ous shades of orange and yellow, the white being ordinary geyserite, while the other colors are purely vegetable. In the top of the mound are several openings, the larger about three inches in diameter, from which a stream of water is thrown 20 to 50 feet and even to 70 feet, mostly in drops, with much steam. The amount of water is small, yet is erupted with great force, reminding one of the eruptions of the " Castle." The spouting is at intervals of about two hours. The elevation of this "Upper Basin," is 7,770 feet, while that of the Upper Geyser Basin, proper, is from 7,300 to 7,400. On a small stream coming into the basin from the west, about .a quarter of a mile from the river, is a fine cascade 130 feet high. The river rises in a small lake to which the name Madison Lake is given. From here the trail runs due east to Shoshone Lake, which is one of the sources of Snake River, giving origin to^the main stream. From the " Upper Geyser Basin " to Madison Lake, is about ten miles, and from this lake to the Shoshone Geysers, the distance is about four miles. The trail is not very good, there being considerable fallen timber through , the region to be traversed. > Mount Blackmore. This mountain, pre- vious to 1872, was practically unnamed and un- known. It is situated in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, in Montana Territory, and' at its base are the sources of the Gallatin River, which; 174 with the Jefferson and Madison Rivers, help form the mighty Missouri. It was discovered by the Hayden Exploration Party of 1872, and received its name under the PALACE BDTTE. following circumstances: While camped at Fort Ellis, and maki ng preparations for the ex- plorations of the famous Yellowstone Expedition, the party was joined by Mr. William Blackmore, of London, one of Eng- land's scientific men. With him came his wife, who was anxious to see some of the beauties and wonders of our famous Yellowstone National Park. The fatigue and hardships of the journey from Corinne to Bozeman, 600 miles of staging, proved too much. On arrival at Bozeman, she was taken ill, and after a sickness of but two days, she died. Her grave lies at the foot of a mountain range, from which there rises a grand peak, stand- ing up like a huge monu- ment to her memory. To this peak the party gave the name of Mt. Blackmore. The height above the sea is 10,134 feet. The ascent is exceedingly difficult, and required over four days by the party who succeed- ed, and the scene from the summit is inexpress- ibly grand, and the field of vision is immense. Here a bird's-eye view is gained of the Gallatin River for over 40 miles of its course ; in the distance is the Missouri. Next are the Jefferson and Madison Rivers, and southward is a country whose ap- pearance is rough be- yond imagination. Peak upon peak looms up against the horizon the Snowy Range of the Yellowstone, with its high points, and the Madison Range with its numerous peak-capped summits. Nearly at the summit of Mt. Blackmore is the crater of an extinct volcano, and the peak itself is composed of black basalt and a brick-red lava. On the western and northern sides there is an almost perpendicular wall, too steep to hold any sno\r in Jodgment. 175 Palace Butte. In ascending Mt. Black- more, the Hayden Party passed through a lovely little park about a quarter of a mile in length, and almost oval in shape, bordered on all sides by a line of grand old trees, whose symmetry would have graced the finest artificial park in the world. Back of these trees, on the east, ris- ing to the height of over 3,000 feet above us, stood an almost blank wall of volcanic rock, the prevailing tint of which was a somber black, re- lieved here and there with streaks of red and green, as though it had been painted. This wall was surmounted by dome and spire-like points of rock, in whose crevices lay deep banks of snow. On the western side of the park, across the creek, was a second wall similar in character to the first. The effects of the weather had given curi- ous architectural resemblances. It did not re- quire a very vivid imagination to trace castles and fortress walls on the face of the wall. At the head of the park stands a monument-like pile of rocks, to which we gave the name of Palace Butte, and the. park we call Palace Park. The butte rises in an almost dome-shaped mass from a blank wall, on whose sides we can distin- guish narrow, silver-like lines, reaching from the top down, until they are hidden behind the trees. These, we afterward discovered, are waterfalls fed by the snows above. Without any visible means of support, they seem to cling to the rock for protection. The scene as we came into the park was so strikingly grand, that we could not restrain our exclamations, and it was some time before we became composed enough to arrange our camp Shoshone Lake Geysers. In beauty the springs of the Shoshone Basin, are probably un- surpassed although the geysers are less active than those of the Fire Hole. They are at the extreme western end of the western arm of the lake, on Shoshone Creek, up which they extend for about half a mile on both aides. The most important geyser is the " Union Geyser," so called because it combines the vari- ous forms of geyseric action. It has three vents, each of which has built up a small cone. Its eruptions are irregular, the height being from 70 to 92 feet. Its location is on the east side of the creek, opposite Quick Run. One hundred yards up the stream on the same side, at the point of a hill, are the " Minute Man " and the " Shield Geyser." The former has a beautifully beaded crater four feet high, and its jets reach an altitude of from 30 to 40 feet. The shield has an ornamented mound with a shield-shaped opening. _ Between these geysers is the " Rosette Spring " in whose shallow waters are thin leaved rosette-shaped masses. A rocky knoll intervenes between this and the " Bulging Spring." From the latter, large bubbles of steam escape with a sound like that of liquid pouring from the bung of an overturned barrel. Forty feet beyond, is the " Soap Kettle " in which dirty colored water is boiling, covered with foam, looking like dirty soapsuds. Still farther on are the " Black Sul- phur Geyser," "The Twins," "The Little Giant," " The Iron Conch," " The Coral Pool," and a host of smaller springs, the description of which would be but a repetition of those already given. Hot springs are found also on Lewis Lake and Heart Lake, south-east of Shoshone Lake, and also doubtless iu many localities yet un- discovered. From the region just described, we can retrace our steps to the Lower Fire Hole Geyser Basin from whence we can either follow down the Madison on the Virginia City Route, or return to Bozeman ; or, we can follow the Snake River passing Jackson's Lake, and the grand scenery of the Teton Mountains, and take the trail to Fort Hall, or crossing through Teton Pass, go to the same place via Pierres River and Snake River. HEIGHTS ATTAINED BY THE ERUPTIONS OF THE PBINCI- PAL GEYSERS IN FIRE HOLE BASINS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Fountain, in Lower Basin, Hayden, 1871, Architectural, in Lower Basin.Hayden, 1871, Old Faithfnl, Upper Basin, Hayden, 1871, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Giantess, Upper Basin, Giantess, Upper Basin, Giantess, Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Turban, Upper Basin, Turban, Upper Basin, Giant, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, AUTHORITY. HEIGHT IN FBBT. 30 to 60 60 to 80 100 to 160 132 150 160 100 to 150 250 *39 100 *213 100 to 150 100 60 10 to 16 *93 M 260 200 173 200 *26 30 tM Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Dunraven, 1874, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872. Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1871, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Dunraven, 1874, Hayden, 1871, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Langford, 1870, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, *41 25 * Measured by triangulation, the others are estimated. ELEVATIONS TS THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Mammoth White Mountain Hot Springs, 6,278 to 7,035 M ud Volcanoes. 7,756 to 7,800 Crater Hills' Springs, 7,828 to 7,979 Sulphur Springs on divide between Yellow- stone and East Fork of Fire Hole Eiver, 8,246 Lower Geyser Basin, 7,250 to 7,350 Upper Geyser Basin, 7,300 to 7,400 Third Geyser Basin, 7,772 Shoshone Lake, Geyser Basin, 7,900 Yellowstone Lake, Shoshone Lake, Lewis Lake. Madison Lake, Henry's Lake, 7,788 7,870 7,750 8,301 6,443 176 MOUNTAIN PEAKS. FEET ABOVE SEA I.KVKI-. Mount Hayden, 13,833 Mount Washburn, 10,388 Mount Sheridan, 10,343 Mount Blackmore, 10,1:34 Mount Delano (Yellowstone Valley), 10,200 Mount Doane, 10,118 Klectric Peak, 10,992 Kraigrant Peak, 10,629 ".ed Mountain, south of Yellowstone Lake, 9,806 Lockout Hill, north of Shoshone Lake, 8,257 Old Baldy, near Virginia City, 9,711 PASSES AND DIVIDES. Tetnn Pass, 8,464 Tyghee Pass, 7,063 Reynold's Pass, Henry's Lake north to Madison River, 6,911 Divide, Yellowstone and Gallatin, on road from Fort Ellis to Boteler's Ranche, 5,721 Divide on Mount Washburn where trail crosses. 9,155 Divide between Yellowstone and Madison, on trail from Mud Volcanoes and Geyser Basins, 8,164 Divide between Madison and Shoshone Lakes, 8,717 Divide between Yellowstone and Lewis Lakes, 8,024 Togwater Pass, (Upper Yellowstone to Wind Kiver,) 9.621 ANALYSIS OF DEPOSIT FROM THE HOT SPRINGS OF GARD- INER'S 111VEK. Water and volatile matters, 32.10 per cent. Lime, 57.70 per cent. Silica, 3.32 per cent. Ferric Oxide, 3.62 per cent. Alumina, 3.31 per cent. "Soda and Magnesia, traces. 105.05 ANALYSIS OF GEYSEKITE FROM LOWER GEYSER BASIN. Water, etc., 9.00 per cent. Silica, 88.60 per cent. Alumina and Iron, 1.60 per cent. Lime, 0.95 per cent. Magnesia, Soda, Potash and Lithia, traces. 100.15 ANALYSIS OF PINK MUD FROM MUD PUFFS IN LO\VER GEYSER BASIN. Water, 8.65 per cent. Silica, 44.61 per cent. Alumina, 45.09 per cent. Magnesia, 2.66 per cent. Iron, 1.86 per cent. Lime and Soda, traces. 102.87 ANALYSIS OF GEYSERITE FROM UPPER GEYSER BASIN. Water, 13.42 per cent. Silica, 79.56 per cent. Lime, 1.54 per cent. Alumina, 0.46 per cent. Magnesia, 1.78 per cent. Iron, Chlorine and Soda, traces. 96.76 ANALYSIS OF GEYSERITE FROM SHOSHONE LAKE, GEY- SER BASIN. Water, Silica, Alumina, Lime, Iron, Magnesia and Soda, traces. 13.00 per cent. 76.80 per cent. 9.46 per cent. 1.80 per cent. 101.06 The analyses given above are from the Reports of the Hayden U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. Great Soda Mountain and Jupiter's Bath in the Yelloirstom* Itef/ion. This natural curiosity is thus described by an artist who accompanied the Yellowstone Exploring Ex- pedition of Doane and Washburn. It is one of the most wonderful institutions the world can afford : " On the second day out, from Boteler's Ranche thirty-three miles we diverge from the rocky trail on the Yellowstone, and after passing a short way up a creek called ' Gardiner's River,' we were led by an old mountaineer up quite a steep mountain. " Near its summit an immense boiling spring spouts out, by a number of mouths and pools, the water of which, as it flows, precipitates its soda, sulphur and carbonate of lime into a suc- cession of beautiful terraces and natural bath- tubs, and like the coral insect, builds perpetually upon itself, until we have before us a hill of snowy soda and carbonate of lime, which is from 300 to 500 feet in height, and covers at least 50 acres. The water is of a deep cerulean blue, and the temperature averages 160 degrees. The process of precipitation is very rapid, and one can fairly see it deposited in beautiful strands, crystals and geodes. The elevation is a little more than 6,000 feet above the sea. No more beautiful contrast in the world of light and color can be found for the artist, than in this spot which is surrounded by dark, rugged mountains, and shades of yellow, white, amber, pink and russet on the spring-hill itself." 117 THE CENTRAL PACIFIC R. R. ^ The record of the building of the Central Pa- cific Bailroad is a description of one of the great- est trials of courage and faith the world has ever seen, and the actual results are one of the great- est marvels in engineering science ever known in the United States. The heroic strength of charac- ter, the magnificent power and endurance, the financial intrepidity and the bold daring which defied all obstacles, overcame all difficulties, and literally shoved the mountains aside to make room for their pathway, are not equaled by any other achievement of the century. If ever an American can feel and express just admiration, it is to those Samsons of the Pacific Coast, who have hewn their way with the ponderous strength of their arms, and with invincible fortitude opened to the world the treasures of industry in the mountains and valleys of the Far West and the Pacific Coast. To one man, more than all others, is due the credit for the conception, sur- vey and actual beginning of the great Trans- Continental Line. Theodore D. Judah yet he did not live to see the completion of the railroad up the Sierras and his successor Mr. S. S. Mon- tague carried it through with great energy and success, and to them the nation and all Califor- nia owe a debt of gratitude. For years this brave and accomplished en- gineer had the subject of the road in his mind. It occupied his thoughts by day and was the subject of his dreams by night. The idea took a firm hold upon him, and he became completely absorbed in it. It energized his whole being and he was persistent and hopeful to the end. Sac- ramento, then a much smaller place than now, was the home of C. P. Huntington and Mark Hopkins, the former now Vice-President and the latter now Treasurer of the company, then hard- ware merchants under the firm name of Hunt- ington & Hopkins. Their store became the headquarters of the little company that used to meet Judah there and talk over the enterprise. Judah 's ideas were clear, his plans seemed prac- ticable and his enthusiasm was contagious. The men who associated with him were led to make contributions for the purpose of partial pay- ment toward a preliminary survey, and, in 1860, Judah and his assistants wandered over the gorges and canons of the Sierra Nevadas in search of a line for a railroad. The results of his summer's work were in every way encour- aging so much so that other contributions and subscriptions were obtained for work the follow* ing year. The summer of 1861 again found Judah and his party in the mountains. The work of the previous year was extended and further examination renewed the hope of the engineer and quickened the zeal of his followers. Success was certain if they could only enlist cap- ital in the enterprise. But right here was the difficulty. While the great majority of the people of California be* lieved that the road would be built some day it would not be done in their time. Some genera- tion in the future might accomplish it, but it would be after they were all dead. The subject was broached in Congress, and finally, in 1862, the bill was passed. Huntington and Judah went to Washington with maps and charts, and rendered invaluable assistance to the friends of the meas- ure in both houses of Congress, and the day of its passage was the day of their triumph. The news was sent to California with lightning speed, and caused great rejoicing among the people. The beginning of the end could now distinctly be seen. Though great difficulties had been surmounted, a comparatively greater one lay in the way. Capital which is proverbially timid, must now be enlisted in the enterprise. Forty miles of road must be built and accepted by the government, before the aid could be secured. Finally, with what local help they could get, and the assistance of New York capitalists and bankers, the work was begun at Sacramento, and the first section carried the line high up toward the summit of the Sierras. Their finan- cial agents in New York, put their bonds on the market, and the funds for the further extension of the road were rapidly forthcoming. Leland Stanford, then as now President of the company, inaugurated the work at Sacramento, and also drove the silver spike, which completed the union of the two roads at Promontory on the 10th day of May, 1869. The progress of the road during each year, from the time of its commencement until its completion, is given as follows : In the years 1863-4-5, the company completed 20 miles each year. This might be called preliminary work. They were learning how, and their severest difficulties were to be overcome. In 1866 they built 30 miles, and the next year 46 miles. Now the rivalry between the two great corporations may be said to have commenced in earnest. In 1868, they built 364, and in 1869, up to May 10th, they closed the gap with 191 miles. 178 Difficulties, Discouragements and La- bor. Few travelers realize, as they pass so easily and pleasantly over this railroad, what is represented by these long, smoothly-laid rails, nor do they know of the early days of labor, and intense energy. Everything of every description of supplies had to be snipped by water from New York, via Cape Horn to San Francisco, and then inland to Sacramento. Thus months of delay occurred in obtaining all needful material. Even when the project was under full discus- sion at the little office in Sacramento, where gath- ered the six great brains which controlled the destiny of the enterprise, (these were Governor Leland Stanford, C. P. Huntington, Mark Hop- kins, Charles Crocker, E. B. Crocker, and T. D. Judah), everybody predicted its failure, and few or none looked for its success. Very little was known of the country it was to traverse, and that not satisfactory, and one prophesied that this, the western end of the Great Trans-Conti- nental Railroad, would be run up into the clouds, and left in eternal snows. Scores of friends approached Huntington in those days and said, " Hunt iny ton, don't go into it; you will bury your whole fortune in the Sierra Nevadas." Outsiders called it, after the first 40 miles were built, " The Dutch Flat Swindle ; " and the pro- ject was caricatured, abused by the newspapers, derided by politicians, discountenanced by capi- talists, and the credit of every one was impaired who was connected with it. Thus nobly did the Californians help this the greatest enterprise of the State, and how much more noble have they since been 1 In a speech before the Senate Committee of Congress by C. P. Huntington, he says : " I suppose that it is a fact, the mercantile credit of my partners in business and myself, was positively injured by our connection with th5j enterprise. " The difficulties which confronted us then, are now nearly forgotten, but they were intensely vivid and real then. There were difficulties from end to end; difficulties from high and steep mountains; from snows; from deserts where there was scarcity of water, and from gorges and flats where there was an excess ; difficulties from cold and from heat, from a scarcity of timber and from obstructions of rock ; difficulties in supplying a large force on a long line ; from In- dians and want of laborers." Of the princely subsidies voted by the United States in its government bonds to aid the road what was the real case? From the individual and private means of the five capitalists, they were compelled to support a force of 800 men one year at their own risks build 40 miles before they were entitled to the government bonds, and then were eleven months delayed if receiving what was their due. To build the first section of the road to the mountains, they were obliged to call in private means, which out on loan was yielding them two per cent, interest in gold, per month invest in the road and wait for reimbursement. When the government bonds were at last received, they vested into gold at the high rate of premium then prevail- ing, (often taking $2 in bonds to buy $1.00 in gold) to pay for labor and expense of construc- tion, which, too, were excessively high for gold prices. The personal dangers of the builders were great. The very surveyors ran the risk of being killed by Indians, and some of them were ; the grading parties, at times, could only work under military guard ; at all times all the track-layers and the train hands had to be armed, and even after construction the trains were often attacked. The first 100 miles was up a total ascent of 7,000 feet, requiring the most skillful engineer- ing and expenditures of vast sums of money in excavation. At the height of 5,000 feet, the snow line was reached, and 40 miles of snow galleries had to be erected, at an additional expense of $20,000 to $30,000 per mile, and for a mile or more, in many places, these must be made so strong that avalanches might pass over them and yet preserve the safety of the track. Even after passing the Sierras, the railroad descended into a vast plain, dry, sere and deserted, where there was not a sign of civilized life, nor any fuel. For over 600 miles of the route, there was not a single white inhabitant. For over 100 miles at a stretch, no water could be found for either man or machinery ; and, even at the present day, in many places the railroad company is obliged to bring its water in artificial pipes for distances of one to fifteen miles for the use of the engines. Labor was almost impossible to get, and when attained was almost impossible to control, until the Chinese arrived, and to them is due the real credit of the greatest help the road possessed. Powder was one of the heaviest items of ex- pense, which before the rise in prices of the war, could have been had for $2.25 per keg but then was obtained with difficulty at $5.00. Locomo- tives, cars, tools, all were bought at double prices. Rails, now worth but $40.00 to $50.00 per ton, then cost $80.00 to $150.00. Every bar of iron and every tool had first to be bought and started on a sea voyage round Cape Horn, some four or six months before it was needed. Insurance on the sea voyages rose from 2 1-2 to 10 per cent. freights increased from $18.00 to $45.00 per ton. Of the engineering difficulties of the con- struction on the Sierras, none can form a possi- ble idea. A culvert would be built, the begin- ning of which was on the grade, while the other end would be 50 feet or more below. At another 179 place is a bank 80 to 100 feet in height, covering a culvert 250 feet in length, then comes a bridge leaping a chasm of 150 feet in depth. Next a cut of hardest granite, where, in the short space of 250 feet, would be working 30 carts and 250 workmen, thick as bees while a little beyond is an embankment built up 80 feet, from whose top you can look down 1,000 feet. The fame as Summit Tunnel is 1,659 feet in length, cut through solid granite, and for a mile on either side there are rock cuttings of the most stupendous character, and the railroad is cut directly in the face of a precipice. The powder bill alone for one month was $54,000. Blasting wjis done three times per day, and sometimes of extraordinary execution. A hole of eight feet was once drilled and fired, and 1,440 yards of franite were thrown clear from the road-bed, everal more holes of same depth were drilled into a seam in the rock, which were lightly loaded and ex- ploded until a large fissure was opened, when an immense charge was put in, set off, and 3,000 tons of granite went whirling down the mountain, tearing up trees, rocks, etc., with fearful havoc. One rock, weighing 70 pounds, was blown one-third of a mile away from its bed, while another of 240 pounds was blown entirely across Donner Lake, a distance of two- thirds of a mile. At one place, near Donner's Backbone, the railroad track is so constructed that it describes a curve of 180, and runs back on the opposite side of the ridge only a few feet parallel to the course it has fol- lowed to the point, all at a grade of 90 feet to the mile. But it is impossible to tell all the won- ders of engineering, or the feats of skill ; let active eyes watch the scene as the traveler passes over the railroad, and then give due credit and admiration to the pluck, skill, persistence and faith which has accomplished so much, and been productive of so much good. The little beginning, in 1860, has now given place to the most astonishing enterprise of mod- ern times. The pay-roll of the Central Pacific Railroad Company now exceeds 10,000 names of employes. The Southern Pacific Railroad, another grand enterprise, controlled by the same company, is building its road rapidly toward the Gulf of Mexico. All the import- ant railroads and steamboats of California are now controlled by these gigantic cor- porations, and from the latest reports wo quote figures of the financial capital of one of the greatest corporations in the United States: CENTRAL PACIFIC BAILROAD COMPANY. Authorized Capital Stock $100,000,000.00 Capital Stock paid in 54,276.50000 Funded Debt 52,061,337.10 United States Subsidy Bonds . . 27,865,6 Number of miles operated 2,500.00 SOUTHERN PACIFIC BAILROAD COMPANY. Authorized Capital Stock 490,000,000 00 C ipital Stock paid in 36,763,900.00 Farming Lands, estimated value 89 267,352.00 Total assets ... , $113,298,862.89 Number of miles completed and in operation 711.67 SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILBOAD OF ARIZONA. Capital 8 :ock $20,000.000.00 Bonds la.OOO.OOJ.OO SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD OF NEW MEXICO. Capital Stock $10,000,000.00 Bonds 6,000,000.00 SILVER PALACE CAR, C. P. K. R. Westward to San Francisco. Travelers from the East, after dining at Ogden and having an hour in which to re-check their baggage, will board a train of silver palace cars belonging to the Central Pacific, in the evening, as the trains now run, and will soon be whirling away across the Great American Desert. As we pass out of the suburbs of Ogden, we cross Og- den River on a pile bridge, and leave it to pur- sue its turbulent way to the lake. We soon ar- rive at the point of junction before alluded to, but find no magnificent hotel, or other buildings, or any evidence of any. " Union Junction " is therefore a myth, and exists only in the fertile imagination. The land, such as it is, however, is there, and we soon pass the steaming Hot Springs on the right of the road and close to the track. These springs are said to be both iron 180 and sulphur, and from the red sediment which has been deposited over quite an area of surface near by, we judge that the iron springs predom- inate. Since leaving Weber Canon we have come nearly north and will continue in that direction until we approach Corinne. On our right are the towering peaks of the Wahsatch in close proximity. On our left are the irrigating ditches that supply the farms with water, an increas- ing growth .of underbrush off toward the lake, and Fremont's Island in the distance with a towering rock, looking like a huge castle, upon one ex- tremity of it. We soon pass a little town called North Ogden, at a canon through the mountains, which is some- times called Og- den Hole, or North Ogden Canon. Before the road was built through Og'len Canon prc per, this was the nearest source of com- munioation with the valley the other side of the mountains. There are about nine miles of straight track here and we soon arrive at Bonneville 871 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,310 feet. It is merely a side track. The Mormons have some fine farms in this vicinity, and between the railroad and base of the mountains there are many cultivated fields and fine orchards of apple and peach trees. There are frequent canons through the range, at the mouth of which are little settlements or villages ; the creeks from the canons supplying the water which irrigates their fields, gardens and orchards. The largest of these settlements or villages are called Willard City and Brigham City, and their business is now done almost exclusively with the Utah North- SnOSHONE INDIAN VILLAGE. ern Railroad, which runs parallel with the Cen- tral Pacific between Ogden and Corinne and near- er the base of the mountains. The next station is Jiriyhani, 816 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,220 feet. A side track for the pass- ing of trains. It is the station for Brigham City, which is some three miles away, though it does not look half that distance. It is the county-seat of Box Elder County, and has a population of 2,000. Leaving this station we cross some alkali marshes near, and also an arm of the lake or small bay, with the east- ern part of the Great Salt Sea in full view, with Promontory Mountains be- yond. Ap- proaching Co- rinne we enter the celebrated Bear River Val- ley, crossing the Bear River. Before reach- ing the bridge the train cross- es 896 feet of piling. There is a " straining beam " bridge of 40 feet, and a Howe truss bridge of 181 feet 4 inches. Corinne 809 miles from San Francisco, with an eleva- tion of 4,291 feet. It is tho largest Gentilo' town in tho Territory, and if not hated is cordially and effectually let alone by most of the Mormons in the surrounding settle- ments. The natural location is excellent, and when the thousands of acres of fertile lands in the Bear River Valley are settled, as they sure- ly will be in time, Corinne will be the center of trade and influence to which her location enti- tles her. On the completion of the railroad through here before it came, even tho Gen- tiles had taken possession of the town and deter- mined to maintain an ascendency. From that time it has been an object of defamation by the PACIFIC* FWMI8T. 181 Saints; and the lands in the broad valley which surround it, as rich as any in the Territory, are left with scarcely a settler. These lands are not all occupied by settlers. The advantage of soil and climate are to be set over against the want of water, for irrigation is essential to good crops. A ditch has already been dug from Malad River, which supplies some farms on its line, and the town with water. A large flouring-mill is also supplied with water from this ditch. Some of the finest wheat we ever saw was raised near Corinne, on irrigated land. It was spring wheat and produced at the rate of nearly fifty bushels to the acre. The spring wheat of TJTE SQUAW AND PAPPOOSE. Utah far excels in quality the best winter ^heat proclucad in Eastern States. It has a largo, plump, hard, white berry, and will rank as A No. 1 in any wheat market in the country. Corinne in its early history was " a rough town," but the roughs have passed on, or sleep in unknown graves. The town now has three churches, a good school, a large flouring-mill, several commission and for- warding houses, stores of various kinds, etc. It was the freighting point to eastern Idaho and Montana before the Utah and Northern Railroad was built. It was for a time the terminus of this road, and since the change of terminus to Ogden, the place has materially declined. It is about seven miles from Great Salt Lake. There are quite a number of hotels and public boarding-houses for the accommodation of guests, the leading house, a brick structure, being the " Central. " Bear River abounds in fish, and in the proper season the sloughs and marshes bordering the river near the lake are almost covered with ducks and wild geese, thus offering fine sport for the hunter and fisherman. The water-lines of the lake become, as we pass westward toward the mountains of the Promontory Range, visible high up on the side of the mountains. There are three distinct water-lines to be seen in some places near Ogden, and each one has left a bench or terrace of land or rock by which it may be traced. The great basin is full of wonders, and no richer field on the Continent awaits scientific examination than this. Alkali beds, salt deposits, and the. detestable water found in them will attract the eye as we go on, and soon we pass Quarry a side track, with a huge, rocky black castle on the right and back of it. Trains do not stop here, nor is the station down on the advertised time-cards. The mountain on our right is called Little Mountain, and rises solitary and alone out of the plain. As we pass beyond and look back, an oval-shaped dome rises from its northern end as the turret of a castle. Salt Creek rises in the valley above, and sinks into the sand on its way to the lake. Blue Creek 789 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,379 feet. It is a tele- graph station with a side track and turn-table. If we have a heavy train a helper engine is here awaiting our arrival, and will assist in pulling us up the hill to Promontory. Between this and the next station, are some very heavy grades, short curves and deep rocky cuts, with fills across ravines. Blue Creek comes rushing down from the mountains, and furnishes water for several stations along the road. Leaving this station we begin to climb around a curve and up the side of the Promontory Range, the road almost doubling back on itself. The old grade of the Union Pacific is crossed and re- crossed in several places, and is only a short distance away. As we wind into the depressions and round the points, gradually ascending to the summit of the divide, the view of the lake, Corinne, Ogden and the Wahsatch Mountains, is grand. The maximum grade between Blue Creek and Promontory is 89. 76 feet. We pass the rock cuts where each road expended thousands of dollars, and where Bishop John Sharp, now President of the Utah Central, exploded a mine which lifted the rock completely out, and gave a clear track after the loose earth was re- moved. Promontory. 780 miles from San Fran- eisco; elevation, 4,905 feet. It is about 9 miles from Blue Creek, and in the first seven miles we ascend over 500 feet. While the road was under construction, this little place was quite lively, but its glory has departed, and its importance at this timy, is chiefly historic. It has a very well- kept eating-house for railroad and train men, and large coal-sheds with a three-stall round- house and other buildings for the convenience ol employes. The water used here is brought from Blue Creek. It is located between two peaks or ridges of the Promontory Range, one of which on the left, is covered with cedars, and a portion of the year crowned with snow. This place is well known as the meeting of the two railroads. The highest point on the left, is called "Peak" on Froiseth's Map of Utah, and from its summit a magnificent view of the lake and surrounding country can be obtained. TJie Great Railroad Wedding Driving the Last Spike. American history, in its triumphs of skill, labor and genius, knows no event of greater, thrilling interest, than the scene which attended the driving of the last spike, which united the East and "West with the bands of iron. First of great enterprises since the world's known history began that gigantic task of join- ing the two great oceans with bands of steel, over which thousands of iron mon- sters are destined to labor for unnumbered years, bearing to this young country con- tinued wealth and prosperity. The comple- tion of a project so grand in conception, so successful in execution, and likely to prove so fruitful and rich in promise, was worthy of world-wide celebrity. Upon the 10th of May, 1869, the rival roads approached each other, and two lengths of rails were left for the day's work. At 8 A. M., spec- tators began to arrive; at quarter to 9 A. M., the whistle of the Central Pacific Railroad is heard, and the first train arrives, bringing a large number of passengers. Then two additional trains arrive on the Union Pacific Railroad, from the East. At a quarter of 11 A. M., the Chinese workmen commenced leveling the bed of the road, with picks and shovels, preparatory to placing the ties. At a quarter past eleven ths Governor's train (Governor Stanford) arrived. The engine was gaily decorated with little flags and ribbons the red white and blue. The last tie is put in place eight feet long, eight inches wide, and six inches thick. It was made of Cal- ifornia laurel, finely polished, and ornamented wiMi a silver escutcheon, bearing the following Mf sription : ' The last tie laid on the Pacific Railroad, May \0, 1869." Then follow the names of the directors and officers of the Central Pacific Company, and of the presenter of the tie. The exact point of contact of the road was 1,085.8 miles west from Omaha, which allowed 690 miles to the Central Pacific Railroad, for Sacramento, for their portion of the work. The engine Jupiter, of the Central Pacific Railroad, and the engine 119 of the Union Pacific Rail road, moved np to within 30 feet of each other. Just before noon the announcement was sent to Washington, that the driving of the laxt a/nHv of the railroad which connected the Atlantic and Pacific, would be communicated to all the telegraph offices in the country the instant the work was done, and instantly a large crowd gathered around the offices of the Western Union Telegraph Company to receive the wel- come news. The manager of the company placed a mag- netic ball m a conspicuous position, where all present could witness the performance, and con- nected the same with the main lines, notifying the various offices of the country that he was ready. New Orleans, New York and Boston in- stantly answered " Ready." In San Francisco, the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the heavy ring of the bell might spread the news immedi- ately over the city, as quick as the event was completed. Waiting for some time in impatience, at last came this message from Promontory Point, at 2.27 P. M. : " A (most ready. Hats off, prayer is being of- fered." A silence for the prayer ensued ; at 2.40 p. M., the bell tapped again, and the officer at Promon- tory said : " We have got done praying, the spike is about to be presented" Chicago replied: " We understand, all are ready in the East." From Promontory Point. "All ready now; the spike will soon be driven. The su/nal icill be three dots for the commencement of the blows." For a moment the instrument was silent, and then the hammer of the magnet tapped the bell, one, two, three, the signal. Another pause of a few seconds, and the lightning came flashing eastward, 2,400 miles to Washington ; and the blows of the hammer on the spike were repeated instantly in telegraphic accents upon the bell of the Capitol. At 2.47 P. M., Promontory Point gave the signal, " Done ; " and the great Amer- ican Continent was successfully spanned. Immediately thereafter, flashed over the line, the following official announcement to the As- sociated Press : Promontory Summit, Utah, May 10. THE LAST RAIL IS LAID ! THK LAST SIMKK IS DHIVKN! THK PACIFIC RAII.KOAD is COM- PLETED 1 The point of junction is 1,086 miles toeat y THE GREAT RAILROAD WEDDING. 1. Driving the last Spike. 2. Union of the East and West. 3. First Whistle of the Iron Horse. 184 \>f the Missouri River, and 690 miles east of Sacra- tiiento City. LELAND STANFORD, Central Pacific Railroad. T. C. DURANT, J SIDNEY DILLON, > Union Pacific Railroad. JOHN DUFF, ) Such were the telegraphic incidents that at- tended the completion of the greatest work of the age, but during these few expectant moments, the scene itself at Promontory Point, was very impressive. After the rival engines had moved up toward each other, a call was made for the people to stand back, in order that all might have a chance to see. Prayer was offered by Rev. Dr. Todd of Massachusetts. Brief remarks were then made by General Dodge and Governor Stanford. Three cheers were given Tor the Government of the United States, for the Rail- road, for the Presidents, for the Star Spangled Banner, for the Laborers, and for those respec- tively, who furnished the means. Four spikes were then furnished, two gold and two silver, by Montana, Idaho, California, and Nevada. They were each about seven inches long, and a little larger than the iron spike. Dr. Harkness, of Sacramento, in presenting to Governor Stanford a spike of pure gold, delivered a short and appropriate speech. The Hon. F. A. Tritle, of Nevada, presented Dr. Durant with a spike of silver, saying: " To the iron of the East, and the gold of the West, Ne- vada adds her link of silver to span the Continent and weld the oceans." Governor Safford, of Arizona, presenting another spike, said : " Ribbed in iron, clad in silver, and croioned with gold, Arizona presents her offering to the enterprise that has banded the Conti- nent and welded the oceans." Dr. Durant stood on the north side of the tie, and Governor Stanford on the south side. At a given signal, these gentlemen struck the spikes, and at the same instant the electric spark was sent through the wires, east and west. The two locomotives moved up until they touched each other, and a bottle of wine was poured, as a liba- tion on the last rail. A number of ladies graced the ceremonies with their presence, and at 1 P. M., under an almost cloudless sky, and in the presence of about one thousand one hundred people, the greatest railroad on earth was completed. A sumptuous repast was given to all the guests and railroad officers, and toward evening the trains each moved away and darkness fell upon the scene of joy and triumph. Immediately after the ceremonies, the laurel tie was removed for preservation, and in its place an ordinary one substituted. Scarcely had it been put in its place, before a grand advance was made upon it by the curiosity seekers and relic hunters and divided into numberless me- mentoes, and as fast as each tie was demolished and a new one substituted, this, too, shared the same fate, and probably within .the first six months, there were used as many new ties. It is said that even one of the rails did not escape the grand battery of knife and hack, and the first one had soon to be removed to give place to another. A curious incident, connected with the laying of the last rails, has been little noticed hitherto. Two lengths of rails, 56 feet, had been omitted. The Union Pacific people brought up their pair of rai s, and the work of placing them was done by ^vopeans. The Central Pacific people then laid tiuir pair of rails, the labor being performed by Mongolians. The foremen, in both cases, were Americans. Here, near the center of the great American Continent, were representatives of Asia, Europe and America America directing and controlling. It is somewhat unfortunate that all the scenes which characterize this place of meeting are passed over by the railroad trains at night, and travelers can not catch even a glimpse. Leaving Promontory, a sugar-loaf peak rises on our right, and, as we near it, the lake again comes into view, looking like a green meadow in the distance. About three miles west of the station, on the left side of the track, a sign-board has been erected, stating that 10 miles of track were here laid in one day. Ten miles farther west a similar sign-board appears. This track was laid on the 29th of April, 1869, and, so far as known, is the largest number of miles ever laid in one day. (For a full description, see page 13.) After passing Promontory about three miles, the grade is 71.28 feet descending toward the West, and this is the steepest grade for a considerable distance. The maximum continues for more than a mile in one place. Rozel an unimportant station, where trains meet and pass; but passenger trains do not stop unless signaled. The lake can now be seen for a long distance, and in a clear day, with a good glass, the view is magnificent. Still crossing a sage brush plain, with occasional alkali patches, closing in upon the shore at times, we soon ar- rive at Lake. There is an open plain to the north of these two stations, and north of Rozel espe- cially, are salt wells. Between these two sta- tions the second sign-board close to the track, showing the western limit of the ten miles of track laid in one day, is seen. North of Lake Station about three miles, are Cedar Springs, near which a great deal of wood was obtained for the construction of the road. Leaving this station we pass across flats and marshes, with the old Union Pacific grade still well preserved, on our left. In places, however, it is partially 185 SALT LAKE FKOM MONUMENT POINT. MONUMENT POINT FBOM SALT LAKE. washed away by the waves of the lake. Next comes Monument 756 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,227 feet. An isolated rock rises like a monument in the lake on the left, while the hill on the right is crowned with turrets and projecting domes. You have here a grand view of the lake, its islands and shores, with promontories, etc., which is correctly represented by our artist. The station itself is a mere side track and "Y," for the con- venience of the road. When the strong south wind blows, the waves, dashing against the rocks on the shore, and the rolling white caps in the distance, form a beautiful view, which the tourist, after passing the dreary waste, will appreciate. The road now turns to the right, and the view of the lake is shut out by a low hill that intervenes. On the west side of this hill are the Locomotive Springs, which puff out steam at times, and which gives them their names. Next we pass Seco which is an unimportant station in the midst of sage plains, and soon arrive at Kelttm 741 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation ot 4,223 feet. The town is located at the northwest corner of Salt Lake, and about two miles from it, with low marshes and sloughs intervening. This is a stage station, and passengers for Boise City and other points in Idaho, and points in Oregon as far as Dal- las, will here leave the train and secure seats in the coaches of the stage line. The shipping of freight for Idaho, and the fact that it is the ter- minus of the stage line, are the principal causes for the growth and business of this place. It has a fair hotel, several stores, the usual num- ber of saloons, and corrals for stock used in freighting. In 1875 six million pounds of freight were shipped from this place to Idaho, or about three thousand tons. In 1880 the shipment was five million three hundred and fifty-eight thousand four hundred and twenty pounds, while Idaho returned in wool, hides, etc., one million six hundred and ten thousand one hundred and ten pounds. The apparent loss is due to the fact that much of the freight is now sent via. the Utah and Northern Rail- road. Seven miles north of the town, at the foot of the mountains, are springs of clear, fresh water, from which water is conveyed for the use of the railroad and inhabitants. There is a good deal of stock grazed in the vicinity of this station, which feed on sage brush in the winter and such grass as they get, but find good grazing in the summer. The surplus cattle are shipped to the markets on the Pacific Coast. In this region tourists will find much to please them. Placid valleys basking in the sunshine, with gigantic snow-clad mountains towering in the background; dashing rivers, with water- falls 200 feet high among these the great Shoshone, of Snake River, called the " Western Niagara"; lakes amid the mountain-tops, with fish disporting in their depths, with waterfowl covering their surfaces; with forests inhabited 187 by the elk, deer, mountain sheep, goat and boar are all here. Tourists will also bear in mind, that this is the station nearest to the great Shoshone Falls. These falls are 110 miles from Kelton. Passen- gers from the east will arrive at about 10 o'clock i>. M., and stay all night. Passengers from the west will arrive at about two o'clock A. M. The next morning they will take the stage run by the North-western Stage Company, 100 miles to Rock Creek Station, which are made over good roads in twelve hours. Here you will stay over night, and take a team the next morn- ing for the falls ; distance ten miles over a lava plain, with stinted sage brush. No sign of the great falls is seen, until you reach a point one mile from them, when they suddenly burst upon the eye with a grandeur and magnificence truly bewildering. Travelers to the main falls can reach them on foot very easily from the upper ridge. Jt will abundantly repay visitors to go to the edge of the river, and contemplate their silent grandeur. A pathway or trail leads from the point where wagons stop, and the distance is about one mile. The Great Shoshone Falls. BY CLARENCE KING. In October, 1868, with a small detachment of a United States Geological Survey, the writer crossed the Goose Creek Mountains, in northern Utah, and descended by the old Fort Boise Road to the level of the Snake Plain. After camp and breakfast, at Rock Creek, mounting in the sad- dle we headed toward the Canon of the S/ioxkone. The air was cold and clear. The remotest mountain peaks upon the horizon could be dis- tinctly seen, and the forlorn details of their brown slopes stared at us as through a vacuum. A few miles in front, the smooth surface of the plain was broken by a ragged, zigzag line ox black, which marked the edge of the farther wall of the Snake Canon. A dull, throbbing sound greeted us. Its pulsations were deep and seemed to proceed from the ground beneath our feet. Leaving the cavalry to bring up the wagon, my two friends and I galloped on, and were quickly upon the edge of the canon wall. We looked down into a broad, circular excavation, three- quarters of a mile in diameter, and nearly seven hundred feet deep. East and north, over the edges of the canon, we looked across miles and miles of the Snake Plain, far on to the blue boundary mountains. The wall of the gorge opposite us, like the cliff at our feet, sank in perpendicular bluffs, nearly to the level of the river. A horizon as level as the sea ; a circling wall, whose sharp edges were here and there bat- tlevnented in huge, fortress-like masses ; a broad river, smooth and unruffled, flowing quietly into the middle of the scene, and then plunging into a labyrinth of rocks, tumbling over a precipice two hundred feet high, and flowing westward in a still, deep current, disappear behind a black promontory. Where the river flowed around the western promontory, it was wholly in shadow, and of a deep sea-green. A scanty growth of coniferous trees fringed the brink of the lower cliffs, overhanging the river. Dead barrenness is the whole sentiment of the scene. My tent was pitched upon the edge of a cliff, directly overhanging the rapids. From my door I looked over the edge of the falls, and, when- ever the veil of mist was blown aside, I could see for a mile down the river. At the very brink of the fall a few twisted evergreens cling with their roots to the rock, and lean over the abyss of foam with something of that air of fatal fascination which is apt to take possession of men. In plan, the fall recurves up-stream in a deep horseshoe, resembling the outline of Niagara. The total breadth is about seven hundred feet, and the greatest height of a single fall about one hundred and ninety. Among the islands above the brink are several beautiful cascades, where portions of the river pour over in lace-like forms. The whole mass of the fall is one ever-varying sheet of spray. In the early spring, when swollen by the rapidly melted snows, the river pours over with something like the grand volume of Niag- ara, but at the time of my visit, it was wholly white foam. The river below the falls is very deep. The right bank sinks into the water in a clear, sharp precipice, but on the left side a nar- row, pebbly beach extends along the foot of the cliff. From the top of the wall, at a point a quarter of a mile below the falls, a stream has gradually worn a little stairway down to the river : thick growths of evergreens have huddled together in this ravine. Under the influence of the cool shadow of the cliffs and the pines, and constant percolating of surface-waters, a rare fer- tility is developed in the ravines opening upon the shore of the canon. A luxuriance of ferns and mosses, an almost tropical wealth of green leaves and velvety carpeting line the banks. There are no rocks at the base of the fall. The sheet of foam plunges almost vertically into a dark, beryl-green, lake-like expanse of the river. Immense volumes of foam roll up from the cata- ract-base, and, whirling about in the eddying winds, rise often a thousand feet into the air. When the wind blows down the canon, a gray mist obscures the river for half a mile; and when, as is usually the case in the afternoon, the breezes blow eastward, the foam-cloud curls over the brink of the fall, and hangs like a veil over the upper river. The incessant roar, reinforced by a thousand echoes, fills the canon. From out this monotone, from time to time, rise strange, wild sounds, and now and then may be heard a slow, measured beat, not unlike the recurring fall of breakers. From the white front of the cata 188 ract the eye constantly wanders up to the black, frowning parapet of lava. The actual edge is usually formed of irregular blocks and prisms of lava, poised upon their ends in an unstable equi- librium, ready to be tumbled over at the first leverage of the frost. Hardly an hour passes without the sudden boom of one of those rock- masses falling upon the ragged debris piled below. After sleeping on the nightmareish brink of the falls, it was no small satisfaction to climb out of the Dantean gulf and find myself once more upon a pleasantly prosaic foreground of sage. Nothing more effectually banishes the melotragic state of the mind than the obtrusive ugliness and abominable smell of this plant. From my feet a hundred miles of it stretched eastward. A half-hour's walk took me out of sight of the canon, and as the wind blew west- ward, only occasional, indistinct pulsations of the fall could be heard. I walked for an hour, following an old Indian trail which occasionally approached within see- ing distance of the river, and then, apparently quite satisfied, diverged again into the desert. When about four miles from the Shoshone, it bent abruptly to the north, and led to the edge of the canon. Here again the narrow gorge widened into a broad theater, surrounded as before by black, vertical walls, and crowded over its whole surface by rude piles and ridges of volcanic rock. The river entered it from the east through a magnificent gateway of basalt, and, having reached the middle, flows on either side of a low, rocky island, and plunges in two falls into a deep, green basin. A very singular ridge of the basalt projects like an arm almost across the river, inclosing within its semi-circle a bowl three hundred feet in diameter and two hundred feet deep. Within this the water was of the same peculiar beryl-green, dappled here and there by masses of foam which swim around and around with a spiral tendency toward the center. To the left of the island half the river plunges off an over- hanging lip, and falls about 150 feet, the whole vol- ume reaching the surface of the basin many feet from the wall. The other half of the river has worn away the edge, and descends in a tumbling cascade at an angle of about forty-five degrees. The cliffs around the upper cataract are infe- rior to those of the Shoshone. While the level of the upper plain remains nearly the same, the river constantly deepens the channel in its west- ward course. By dint of hard climbing I reached the actual brink in a few places, and saw the canon succes- sively widening and narrowing, its walls here and there approaching each other and standing like the pillars of a gateway; the river alter- nately flowing along smooth, placid reaches of level, and then rushing swiftly down rocky cas- cades. Here and there along the cliff are dis- closed the mouths of black caverns, where the lava seems to have been blown up in the form of a great blister, as if the original flow had poured over some pool of water, and the hot roclt, con- verting it into steam, had been blown up bubble- like by its immense expansion. I continued my excursions along the canon to the west of the Shoshone. About a mile below the fall, a very fine promontory juts sharply out from the wall, and projects nearly to the middle of the canon. Climbing with difficulty along its toppling crest, I reached a point which I found composed of immense, angular fragments piled up in danger- ous poise. Looking eastward, the battlemented rocks aroiind the falls limited the view; but westward I could see down long reaches of river, where islands of trachyte rose above white cas- cades. A peculiar and fine effect is noticeable upon the river during all the midday. The shadow of the southern cliff is cast down here and there, completely darkening the river, but often defining itself upon the water. The con- trast between the rich, gem-like green of the sun- lit portions and the deep-violet shadow of the cliff is of extreme beauty. The Snake River, deriving its volume wholly from the melting of the mountain snows, is a direct gauge of the an- nual .advance of the sun. In June and July it is a tremendous torrent, carrying a full half of the Columbia. From the middle of July it con- stantly shrinks, reaching its minimum in mid- winter. At the lowest, it is a river equal to the Sacramento or Connecticut. Near the " City of Rocks " Station, in the Goose Creek Mountains, are found the " Giant Rocks," and over the little rise is the place that gives the name to the station. Dotting the plains are thousands of singular rocks, on which the weary pilgrims of 1849, have written their names in cart-grease paint. The old Cali- fornia road is still seen, but now overgrown with rank weeds. The view as you descend from the summit is sublime. Far away in the distance loom up the Salmon River Mountains, distant 125 miles, and in the intervening space winds the valley of the Snake River. Kelton has from 250 to 300 inhabitants, nearly all supported by the Idaho trade. North of Kelton about twenty -five miles is the Black Pine (mining) district, and 130 miles north, the Wood River district. This is the most prominent min- ing district in Idaho, but the freight and trado of this district and the whole of the Boise basin will eventually reach the Utah and Northern Railroad, by a branch of the road from Black- foot west to Boise City and the Columbia River. The district extends from the low hills at the base of the Wood River Range to the divide of Wood and Salmon rivers, from twenty to forty miles wide, and 140 miles long perhaps the most extensive silver-bearing region known. 189 The ores are high grade, galena and car- bonates. Ltlako Territory. This is one of the small- est of the Territories, as now constituted, and claims a population of about 15,000 people. There are three public lines of conveyance which lead into the Territory, or rather two, as one of them passes entirely through it. The stage line from Kelton passes the City of Eocks, and within ten miles of the Great Shoshone Falls, to Dalles in Oregon, by way of Boise City, 250 miles out; thence to Baker City, Oregon, 400 miles; to Union, 435 miles; to La Grande, 450 miles; to Umatilla, 510 miles, and to Walla Walla, 530 miles. At Boise City the in corn raising have not, tlms far, turned out very well. The second line of public convey- ance spoken off, runs from Winnemucca to Silver City. The population is about 2,200. It is sus- tained by the mines located near it. At Battle- snake Station there is also a connecting stage line for Bocky Bar, a mining camp, near which placer and gulch diggings have been discov- ered. There are quite a large number of Chinese in the Territory, mostly engaged ir placer and gulch mining. They are industri- ous and frugal, and will frequently make money from claims that have been abandoned as worthless by white men. VIEW LOOKING DOWN THE SHOSHONE FALLS. line connects with stages for Idaho City, Cen- terville, Placerville and Silver City. Boise City is the territorial capital, a city of 2,500 people, and located on the Boise River. There is not much agricultural land in the Territory, but a few of the valleys are cultivated and produce excellent crops of wheat, barley and oats, with potatoes and all kinds of vegetables. Crops are raised by irrigation. Boise Valley, the settled portion of it, is about sixty miles long and four miles wide, and is the most thickly settled of any of the valleys ia the Territory. The nights are so cool and the alti- tude of the valleys is so great that experiments The Snake and Salmon rivers are among its principal streams. The Snake River rises in the mountains of the Yellowstone Region, and flows entirely through the Territory from east to west, and forms one of the tributaries to the Columbia River of Oregon. The scenery along its valley is varied, but in some places is grand. Idaho also has immense ranges where a largo number of cattle are grazed both winter and summer without hay. The stock interest is rapidly becoming one of the principal features of the Territory. Its future prosperity, how- ever, depends largely upon the development of its mining interests. 190 Leaving Kelton, the road soon turns to the left, and, rising a heavy grade, reaches the divide between the Great Salt Lake and the valley beyond. The mountains for a distance are on our right, while, from the left, a mag- nificent view of the western arm of the lake can be obtained. Between the road and the lake are extensive salt plains, which in the sun glisten like burnished silver, while beyond are the green waters of this inland sea. Going up this grade, you will notice a ledge of rocks on the left side of the track, the lower end of which has been tunneled by the wind, forming a natural aperture like an open arch. We soon turn to the right, leave the lake behind us and wind along the side of the mountain. A dreary- salt marsh or alkali plain is now seen on the left, and the low, isolated hill on the shore, which for a time obscured our vision, is passed, giving us another view of the lake in the dis- tance, and the mountains of the Wahsatch and Oquirrh ranges beyond, as far as the eye can reach. Passing through a rocky cut from a projecting spur of the range we are passing, and looking to the right, a beautiful conical dome rises up, as a grim sentinel to guard the way. Kelton is also called Indian Creek. It is supplied with water from a spring several miles north, and the water is conveyed in cars from this point to other stations on the road. Otnbey simply a side track in the midst of a heavy gravel cut, 730 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,721 feet. At Kel- ton we wcro but little above the elevation of Salt Lake, 4,223 feet, and we are 500 feet higher here than when we left that place, the distance between the two being about eleven miles. From the frequent views of the Great American Deserb which the traveler can obtain while passing over this portion of the road, he can form some idea of its utter barrennness and desolation, and the great sufferings of those who have attempted to cross it without adequate preparation, and the consequent burning thirst they and their animals have endured. Matlin only a side track, 720 miles from San Francisco; elevation, 4,597 feet. Terrace a railroad town on the edge of the Great American Desert. It is 709 miles from Saa Francisco, with an elevation of 4,544 feet. Here is a fifteen-stall roundhouse, and the ma- chine and repair shops of the Salt Lake Division of the Central Pacific Railroad. Mr. A. G. Fell, with headquarters at Ogden, is Superin- tendent of this division, which extends from that place to Wells in Nevada. The town has about 300 people, which includes not only the railroad men and their families, but those who are here for the purpose of trade and traffic with them. The water tank here, as at a good many stations on this road, is supplied with water brought through pipes from the springs in the mountains. The town has two or three stores, saloons and an eating-house, where railroad men and emi- grants take their meals. About ten miles north are the Rosebud Mines, and eighteen miles the Newfoundland district, all awaiting develop- ment. The desert with its dreary loneliness a barren waste still continues. A spur of the Goose Creek Range of Moun- tains puts down on our right, while Silver Is- let Mountain rises out of the alkali plain on our left, and Pilot's Peak, one of the lofty moun- tains of Nevada, and a noted landmark for many a weary pilgrim across the desert, looms up in the southwest. Bovine an unimportant station, with side track for the convenience of passing trains, 699 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation oi 4,347 feet. On our right are broken mountains, while there is an isolated peak one side of which seems to have settled away from the other, leav- ing it very rough and ragged. Next we come to Liticin 688 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,486 feet above the sea. Be- yond Lucin, a short distance, we strike Grouse Creek, which rises in the hills north. This creek usually sinks in the sandy desert, and no water in it crosses the railroad, except in the spring when the snows are melting. On the right, east of the hills, and north of Lucin about 4^ miles, are the Owl Springs, which have an abundance of water. As we enter the pass in this low range of hills, we lose sight oi Silver Islet Mountains, and the range close to the track is called the Pilot Range, or by the miners, Buel Range, after Buel City. Leaving Grouse Creek on our right, the road leads to the left again, and we enter the Thousand Spring Valley. It virtually unites with the Grouse Valley, though its waters usually sink in the sand before they reach those of the creek men- tioned. As we near Tecoma, the traveler will notice a small granite monument on the left side of the track, near the summit of the grade, supported by a heap of stones. This monu- ment marks the Nevada State line, and passing it, we enter the land of the "big bonanzas." From the State line there is a tangent or straight line of ten miles, and more than twenty miles with only few and slight curves. Tecoma, Nev. 676 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,812 feet. This is the nearest railroad station to the celebrated Tecoma Mines, Buel City, Lucin and Silver Islet Mining Districts, Deep Creek District (ninety miles south), Goose Creek and Delano Districts (thirty-five miles north), and the center of considerable cattle trade. The town lias two or three stores, saloons and stock-yards. Off to the north is a fine grazing country. As we approach Tecoma, on our left a bluff peak with perpendicular walls closes the north- ern end of Pilot Eange, while Pilot Peak towers up to the heavens at the southern extremity. It is twenty miles from Tecorna to the bass of this peak, though it does not seam half that distance. Leaving Tecoma the railroad con- tinues over a sage brush and greasewood plain to the left of the valley, with a part of the old Union Pacific grade on the right, and as we approach the next range of hills or mountains, we have a fine broadside view of grand old Pilot Peak, and do not wonder at its promi- nence, or the great regard in which it was held by the emigrants across this dreary desert. Montello 715 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,995 feet. At this station is a large water-tank supplied with water from a spring in the mountains on the right, soma ten miles away. The mountain ranges this sido of Ogden run from north to south, parallel with each other, and the railroad crosses them over low divides or passes, while the plains of the desert lie between them. To our right a point of the Pequop Range approaches the track, and shuts out our view of tha Old Pilot as we pass up the grade and into the narrow defile. Loray, nearly on the summit of the divide, is 657 y z miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of about 5,960 feet. It is a station of no particular importance to travelers. Wood and timber, cut in the mountains for the use of the road, is delivered here. Toano 65U miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,973 feet, formerly the western terminus of the Salt Lake Division of the Cen- tral Pacific, and 183 miles from Ogden, has a roundhouse with six stalls and an adjoining shed where two engines can be sheltered. It has the usual side tracks, coal-sheds and build- ings for the transaction of the business of the company. The town has about 250 people. The following mining districts are tributary to this place, and transact the most of their busi- ness here: Silver Zone, distant 20 miles; Dolly Varden, 55 miles; Cherry Creek, 100 miles; Egan Canon, 105 milas; Shelburn, 110 miles; Mineral City, 130 miles; Ward, 140 miles. They are all south of the railroad, and connect- ed with Toano by a' good wagon road, though there are no mails carried by this route. A great deal of freight is carried to the mines, and ore and bullion hauled back. The road is destitute of water for a considerable part of the way, and wells, at a great expense, have been dug in some places, from which water is sold to freighters. Formerly very rich ore was found in some of these mines. Twenty car loads from the Pay- master Mine in the Ward District were shipped in January, 1876, nineteen of which averaged aboiit $800 per ton, and one car averaged a lit- tle over SI, 000 psr ton, net. The valleys south have good ranges for stock, and some of them, as the Steptoe Valley, produce excellent crops of small grain and vegetables. The Toano Range of Mountains runs from north to south, and heads near this place. On the road to Pioche, about 180 miles from Toano, and about half a mile from the road, is the Mammoth Cave of Nevada. It has been partially explored, but its extent is not known. Beautiful speci- mens of stalactites and crystals have been found here, and the tourist would be highly interested in a visit to this cave, which in a short time must become a place of public resort. North of Toano, the Goose Creek Range of Mountains, which divides Goose Creek and Thousand Spring Valley, is plainly visible. The Salmon Falls copper mines, on Salmon Falls River, are about sixty miles north, and are known to ba rich in copper. About twenty miles south of the town a road to the Deep Creek Mining District branches off from the Pioche road, and part of the business of that mining camp is done here. The country immediately around Toano is barren and deso- late in appearance not inviting to the traveler or settler. On leaving Toano we have an up grade to Moore's Station, about thirty miles. In the winter great difficulty is experienced with snow over this distance, and in the summer the route is extremely beautiful and picturesque. Just west of the town, on the right, the low hills are covered with a scattering growth of scrub pines and cedars. The Pequop Range juts up to the town on the south, while on the north may still be seen the mountains of the Goose Creek Range. The road between this point and Wells is undulating, and full of short curves and heavy grades. Six snow sheds are passed, in rapid succession. As we look off to the right, the hill seems to descend into a large valley, with a range of mountains beyond. It is a dry, sage brush valley and continues in sight until we pass Independence. Pequop 640 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6, 184 feet. It is simply a side track, at which passenger trains do not stop. Passing this, we next reach the Otego telegraph station, which is only used in winter, to give notice of snow-blocked trains, etc. Otego station and sido track, which is 635 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6,154 feet. The tourist may enjoy a magnifi- cent view of hills and mountains, valleys and dales, as we pass on over some of the reverse curves in the road. The old Union Pacific grade is still seen in patches, on our right. Pequop Range, with Independence Valley, now looms grandly into view on our left, as we arrive at Independence 629 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 6,007 feet. We aro .now crossing a low divide between the valley 192 on our right, abovo spoken of, and Independ- ence Valley on our left. This station is on a heavy down grade, and trains going west sel- dom stop. The water tank is supplied from springs in the low hills off to the right, and the side tr^ick is a little bayond it. We now pass to the right around an isolated mountain that saems to guard tha entrance to Independence Valley and thea to the left, and as we turn to enter the pass in the mountains a lovely view of this bjautiful valley is again obtained, stretching away as far as the eye can reach. It is a great stock range, and thousands of cattle annually feed upon its rich nutritious grasses. Turning again to the right we enter what is called Cedar Pass. Passing a section-house at which there is a winter telegraph station for use of snow-bound trains, we soon reach the sum- mit of the divide between Independence Val- ley and the valley ot the Humboldt, at Moor's 623 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6,166 feet. It was formerly quite a town for wood-choppers and frontiers- men, when the railroad was being built; but its glory has departed and the stakes and posts of a faw houses are all that remain to mark the spot. Down the grade we go into the far-famed Humboldt Valley, passing Cedar, a side track, where a camp of wood-choppers in the moun- tains on our left deliver their wood. From Moor's for a distance of 310 miles there is with slight exception a down grade. The reader may note the elevations at the different stations and see what uniformity prevails. Wells 614 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,629 feet, is the western ter- minus of the Salt Lake, and eastern terminus of the Humboldt division. Its population of 200 are mostly railroad people. A roundhouse and repair shops are located here, and snow- plows ara frequently sent out from this point during the storms of winter. Just as we enter the town, we pass a mountain spur on our left, and Clover Valley bursts into view. Its name is significant as it abounds in the natural clover so well known in the Eastern States. The rail- road water tank, formerly supplied with water pumped from the wells, a little west of the town, is now filled from a mountain spring four miles away. Humboldt "Wells, as they are called, give celebrity to this place. They are really springs about thirty in number, situated mostly in a low basin half a mile west of the station. They are very probably natural springs, and from the nature of the porous soil around them, they do not rise and flow away as similar springs do in a more compact soil. The water, by residents here, is not considered brackish at all, nor is it particularly warm, though the springs have never been known to freeze over. They are also called bottomless, but no accurate knowledge has yet been published in regard to their depth. They are simply deep springs, but the opinion is here entertained that a lead and line would soon touch bottom in them. It was the great watering place in times of the old emigrant travel, and at least three of these roads converged to this point and united here. These \vere the Grass Creek, the Thousand Spring Valley and the Cedar Pass Roads. Emi- grants in those days always rejoiced when they had passed the perils of the Great American Desert, and arrived at these springs where there was plenty of water, pure and sweet, and an abundance of grass for their weary and worn animals. Hence it was a favorite camp- ing ground. Visitors approaching these springs in the summer, and springing on the sod, can fairly shake the adjoining springs, a fact that' leads to the opinion entertained by some that they are really openings of a lake, which has been gradually covered over by the accumula- tion of grass and grass roots and other luxuri- ant vegetation, which abounds along and around the basin. The fact that the ground around these springs is so elastic, and the known inci- dents in history, where luxuriant vegetation has frequently caused islands in rivers and lakes, suggests this opinion, and a thorough investigation may establish the theory that there is in this basin simply a covered lake, of which the springs are openings. The confor- mation of the land around the basin also tends to establish the truth of this theory. The basin is the receptacle of the drainage of a large water- shed, and there are high mountains nearly all around it. These springs abound in fish the little minnows that are so common in the brooks and small streams in the Eastern States. Other kinds there may be, but these only have been caught. The apertures differ in size, and the openings to some are much larger than the openings in others. If they were on a side- hill everybody would call them springs, but inasmuch as they are in a low basin, they aro called wells. Mr. Hamill, a merchant of Wells, says that he took a piece of railroad iron and tied some lariat ropes to it (about 160 feet), and could find no bottom in the deepest springs which he sounded with that length of rope. Ho further says that a government exploring party, under command of Lieutenant Cuppinger, visited Wells in 1870 and took soundings of the springs to a depth of from 1,500 to 1,700 feet and found no bottom. These soundings were of the largest springs or wells, and while his state- ment may be true, even soundings to this depth do not render them bottomless. How to see them and know where they are, is the next thing of consequence to the traveler. As you pass west of the station, notice the end of a piece of the old Union Pacifia grade; next 193 the graves surrounded by painted fences; tlien off to the right a heap of stones, where the en- gine-house was built the engine being used to force water from the well, which is just beyond this heap of stones, to the tank alongside of the track. The heavy growth of grass around the place will indicate where this well is in summer, and the accumulated deposits of this grass have raised a little rim around this particu- lar well and the same is true of others in its immediate vicinity. Travelers will take notice that a mail and ex- press stage line leaves Wells tri-weekly Mon- days, Wednesdays and Fridays in the morn- ing for Sprucemont, 35 miles; Cherry Creek, 95 miles; Egan Canon, 90 miles, and Ward, 130 miles distant. There are estimated to be about forty ranches in Clover Valley, and as many in Ruby Valley. These ranchmen are engaged in agriculture and stock growing. They raise wheat, barley, oats, and splendid vegetables. Wells has extensive stockyards to accommodate the large shipments of cattle annually made from these ranches. The valley in this immediate vicinity is the scene of the annual ' ' round-ups, " every spring. Cedar Pass Range is the range on our left, as we come through by Moor's Station. West of thjs range and south of Wells is Clover Valley. The tourist will see "Castle Peak " on the fur- ther side of this valley as the train pauses at the station, and this peak is on the northern end of Ruby Eange, and it is always covered with snow. Ruby Valley is nearly due south of the ' Castle," which you see in tlio mountain, and is divided from Clover Valley by a spur of this range, which turns into it like a hook. Ruby Eange is about 150 miles long, and we only see its northern extremity at Wells. North of Wells, across the first range, lies the iTiousand Spring Valley then across another low divide, you will strike a valley whose waters flow northwest through the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean. Fishermen will bear in mind that salmon trout are caught in this valley in the spring of the year. The stream is a branch of the Salmon Falls River, 'vhich empties into Snake River, about 120 :ailes north of this station. It may be well to remark here that the moun- tain ranges in Nevada, as in Utah, generally t'Xtend from north to south and the only ex- ception to this rule is where there are broken or detached ranges, or isolated peaks. Leaving Wells, the foot hills on our left, in a short dis- tance, obscure a view of the high peaks in the Ruby Range; but they soon reappear as we pass down the valley, and are our constant companions, only a short distance away, until we leave Halleck. Between the Humboldt River and the base of these mountains, there is an elevated bench covered with the usual sage brush and greasewood, while in the valley and along the borders of the stream grass land pre- dominates. An extensive stock-dealer, when asked about the qualifications, etc., for growing cattle, said that "there was about one acre of grass to seventy -five acres of sage brush," and a limited observation of this part of the State, at least, proves that he was not far out of the way. As we descend the river, however, a gradual increase in grass lands will be observed, while, in places, the greasewood which, so far as we know, is entirely useless, grows in aston- ishing luxuriance. Tulasco 607 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,482 feet. The valley seems to Widen out as we descend it, and bushes grow in bunches along the banks of the stream as if the old earth, under the most favorable conditions, was trying to produce trees to beautify and adorn these barren plains. Soon Bishop's Val- ley can be seen on our right. Looking to the left, we see the canon in the mountain side, down which rushes Trout Creek, when th snows are melting in the spring and early sum- mer. This creek abounds in " speckled beau- ties," and unites with the Humboldt about a mile and a half below Bishop's Creek, which we soon cross, through a covered bridge. BisJiop's is another side track station, but on we glide through the valley as it widens out into magnificent proportions. It is 602 miles from San Francisco, and has an elevation of 5,412 feet. Another little creek and valley now appear on our right, and we soon arrive at Deeth 594 miles from San Francisco; eleva- tion, 5,340 feet. It is a telegraph station, and has a few buildings around it. The valley peems very broad as we approach this station, and evidences of settlement and cultivation begin to appear. The bushes and willows along the banks of the stream increase, and it is a para- dise for ducks and geese. Natchez is simply a side-track and unim- portant station, and Ifalleclt is the next station, 581 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,230 feet. It is named from Camp Halleck, which is located at the base of the mountains, thirteen miles from the station, and across the river. A few troops are usually kept here two or three companies and all the freighting and business of the post is done from this station. The town itself has a post-office, hotel, a small store and the usual saloons where " lingering death" or "blue ruin" is doled out to soldiers and others who patronize them. It is probable that good crops of wheat, barley and oats could be raised here by irrigating the land, but it is mostly occupied as stock ranges. Camp Hal- leck is not plainly seen from the railroad, though a few buildings a little removed from it will point out its locality. A regular mail 194 ambulance runs daily bet-ween it and the station. The camp is delightfully located, well watered, and is surrounded with thriving groves of cot- tonwood trees. Leaving Halleck, Elko Moun- tain seems to rise ori our right close to the track, but the road soon turns and we pass this landmark on our left. The Ruby Range which we have seen away to the left, from Wells to the last station, is now left in the rear as we turn westward again, and pass down one of the Humboldt Canons. Peho is the next station, merely a side track and section-house at the head of the first canon on the river. It is 578 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 5,204 feet. We ar,e now at the head of the Humboldt Canon, the first one through which the river passes. It is not wild and rugged, but nevertheless suffi- ciently so to make it interesting. A short dis- tance below Peko, the North Fork of Humboldt comes in. It is about as large as the main body, and is a peculiar stream. It rises nearly north of Carlin, some distance west of this point, and runs to the northeast for a distance, then nearly east, and finally-turns toward the southwest, and unites with the Humboldt at this point. The road through this canon is full of short curves, and winds like a serpent through the hills. Now it seems as though the train would be thrown into a heap at the base of the hill we are approaching, but a turn to the right or left saves us from such a calamity. Once or twice before we reach Osino, the valley opens out between the hills, and where the North Fork enters there is an abundance of grass which is monopolized by a ranchman. At the next station, Osino 566 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,132 feet a mere side track we enter upon an open valley, and for about nine miles pass over a nearly straight track. The valley is all taken up by ranchmen and farmers, and good crops are raised by irriga- tion. The water is taken from the Humboldt above, brought down in a ditch, from which it is taken and distributed among the farms. Elko 558 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,063 feet. It is the regular break- fast and supper station of the road, and pas- sengers get an excellent meal in a neat, well- kept house. In the midst of a game and fish country, the table is generally supplied in the proper season. Passengers have half an hour for their meal. Elko is the county-seat of Elko County the northeastern county of the State. It has a population of about 1,200, and is one of the important commercial and educational centers of the State. It has a large brick court-house and jail, one church, an excellent public school, and is the seat of the State University. This institution has forty acres of ground on a bench of land overlooking the city, in plain sight of the cars on the right, just before reaching the town. It was first opened in 1875. The money paid for freights consigned to this place and the mining districts which are tributary to it, in 1875 amounted to nearly $400,000, and the first year the railroad was completed ran up to over $1,000,000. The trade of the place has decreased owing to the fluctuations of the mines tributary to it, and the loss of the business of Eureka and other points south, near the line of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad. The town has numerous retail stores and two or three whole^ sale establishments, with a bank, a flouring mill, brewery, hotels, etc. Water taken from the Humboldt River, some seventeen miles dis~ tant, and brought here in pipes, supplies the city. It has three large freight depots for the accommodation of its railroad business, and is the location of the United States Land Office for the Elko Land District. Indians, mostly the Shoshones, of all sizes and of both sexes, hover around the town and beg from the trains of cars. They still bedaub themselves with paint, and strut around with feathers in their hats in true Indian style. About one and a half miles north of the river and west of the town, are a group of mineral springs that are already attracting the attention of invalids. There are six springs in this group, three hot and three cold. The hot springs show 185 Fahrenheit, and one of them, called the " Chicken Soup Spring," has water which, with a little salt and pepper for seasoning, tastes very much like chicken broth. Tourists in search of wonderful curiosities should not fail to visit these springs and observe the craters of those which are now extinct. The sediment or incrustations formed by the water into some kind of porous rock, accumulated around the apertures until at length they were raised, in one instance, about three feet above the surface of the ground, with a hollow basin at least one foot in diameter on the top. Other extinct springs are not as high as this one, but show the same formation and have the same pecu- liarities. Of the hot flowing springs said to be white sulphur two are quite large, and one of them is said to contain a large solution of iron. A bathing-house has been erected a short distance away, to which the water is conducted, and in which there are private bathing-rooms supplied with both hot and cold water from the springs. There is also a large plunge bath near by, with dressing-rooms adjoining, and a hotel for the accommodation of guests. There is a public conveyance running between the city and the springs for the accommodation of visi- tors. The waters are claimed to be a certain cure for rheumatism and all diseases of the blood; to have a remarkable effect in paralytic cases; to have a good effect on consumptives, 195 MOUNTAIN SCENE IN THE BUBY RANGE. when the disease is not too far advance; to cure fevers of all kinds, and the miners who become poisoned with the lead disease, by working among antimonial ores. The uniform temperature of the hot springs has been further utilized in hatching chickens, and the experi- ment, if carried to perfection, will beat all the setting hens in the country. Tuscarora and Cornucopia are tributary to Elko, and contribute to its prosperity. The former is forty-seven miles north. Tuscarora is 196 the principal town in the district. The mines, like those in the Cornucopia district, are in a porphyry formation with free milling ore. Cornucopia district is about thirty miles north of Tuscarora. Other districts are the Centen- nial and Cope near the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt. Stages run daily to Tuscarora and Cornucopia. In the vicinity of the mining districts there are rich agricultural valleys, where all kinds of grain except corn are extensively raised, and vegetables and melons grow to a great size and excellence. There are also vast stock ranges tributary to Elko. There is a weekly stage line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntingdon Valley. From those and other valleys Elko receives large numbers of cattle to be shipped by rail. Elko has one daily and two weekly papers which are well supported. The Post is a weekly, Republican in politics, and the Independent, daily and weekly, is Democratic in politics. The valley of the Humboldt continues to widen as we leave Elko for a few miles, and if it is winter or in the cool mornings of spring or autumn, we will see the steam rising in clouds from the Hot Springs across the river near the wagon bridge, on our left. The pasture and meadow lands, with occasional houses, are soon f ass .1, and we arrive at M^ceen 546 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,982 feet. It is simply a side track station, with no settlements around it, and trains seldom stop. The same general appsar- ance of the valley and low ranges on either side continue to this place. Occasionally as we have glanced to the left, the high peaks of the Ruby Range have lifted themselves into view, over- topping the nearer and lower range that borders the river on the south. Passing Moleen, the valley begins to narrow, and the river gorges through the Five Mile Canon. Close to the bluffs we roll along and suddenly, almost over our heads, the beating storms of ages have washed out the softer and more porous parts of the ledges, leaving turrets and peaks, towers and domes standing along in irregular order. This peculiar formation is known in this vicinity as the " Moleen Rocks. " The road curves to con- form to the line of the earth now one way and now another. The scenery here is not grand and sublime, but just enough peculiar to be in- teresting. The towering ledges in this canon, or in the one below, are not a thousand or fifteen hundred feet high for accurate measurements have placed them at about 800 feet. This canon is soon passed and the valley opens out again. We soon cross Susan's Creek, and then Maggie's Creek, then Mary's Creek, and we are at Carlin 535 miles from San Francisco, at an elevation of of 4,907 feet. It is a railroad town, the terminus of a division of the road and the location of the roundhouse, machine car and repair shops of the Humboldt Division of the Central Pacific Railroad. It is the head- quarters of Mr. G. W. Coddington, the Division Superintendent. The division extends from Wells to Winnemucca, and this place is about half way between them. The town has no busi- ness outside of the railroad shops and employes, and numbers abo it 600 people. The round- house has 16 stalls for engines, and the repair shop, six pits. It is in Elko County. The old emigrant road divided just before reaching Car- lin, one branch going south of the river, and the range of mountains bordering the same, and the other going north of the hills on the north side of the river. These two roads came together below, near Gravelly Ford. In the vicinity of Carlin the four little creeks come in from the north. In the order in which they are crossed, they are called Susie, Maggie, Mary and Amelia. Tra- dition says in regard to tliese names, that an emigrant was crossing the plains with his family at an early day, and that in this family were four daughters in the order given, and that as the party came to these streams, they gave the name of each one of the daughters to them a very appropriate thing to do, and their names have been perpetuated in history. Just e;i.l of Moleen Station, the tourist looking off to th' left, will notice the break or gorge through the? low hills, on the south side of the river. Through this gorge the South Fork of the Humboldt comes in. This stream rises in the Ruby Range of Mountains and flows in a general westerly direction, uniting with the main river at this point. We will here state that nearly all the people in the vicinity, call the range of mount- ains last alluded to " Ruby," and we have fol- lowed the custom ; but Lieutenant Wheeler's Map speaks of it as the Humboldt Range, and accord- ing to the custom of the people along this valley, nearly every range of .mountains in sight, from one side of the State to the other, is called " Hum- boldt Range," or " Humboldt Mountains." As to the fertility of these and other valleys in this part of the State, it all depends upon irrigation. A sage brush plain indicates good soil, but water must be obtained to raise a crop. An effort has been made to make Carlin the shipping point to the mining districts on the north, but 'without much success thus far. The iron horses are changed here, and with a fresh steed we pass down the valley. It is quite wide here, but will soon narrow as we enter the Twelve Mile Canon. Like the former, the road winds around the base of the bluffs and almost under the ledges, with the river sometimes almost under us. The peaks and ledges seem to have no local name, but some of them are very singular. In one place, soon after entering the canon, the ledges on the right side of the track seem to stand up on edge, and broken into very irregular, serrated lines, the teeth of the ledge being uneven as to 197 length. The height of the bluffs and of the palisades below, is about the same as in the former canon 800 feet. In some places the pal- isades are hollowed out like caves or open arches, and the debris that has crumbled and fallen from their summits during the ages, obscures their full form and height from view. Twelve Mile Canon, in the Palisades, was graded in six weeks by the Central Pacific Railroad Company, one cut herein containing 6,600 cubic yards. Five Mile Canon just east- ward, was graded in three weeks, -with a force of 5,000 to 6,000 men. With the perpendicular walls rising on each side of us, we glide around the curves, and in the midst of these reddish lines of towering rocks, arrive at Falisa(le,576 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,841 feet. It is the initial point of the Eureka & Palisade Railroad, is a growing little place between the wall rocks of the river, and has a population of from 150 to 200 souls. It has one or two hotels or lodging-houses, stores, saloons, two large freight depots, and the machine and repair shops of the Eureka & Palisade Railroad. A new station-house, ticket and telegraph office has been constructed here the finest in Nevada to be occupied and used by both the Central Pacific and Eureka and Palisade roads. The town is located about half the distance down the canon, and the rocky, perpendicular walls give it a picturesque appearance. The lower half of the canon is not as wild and rug- ged, however, as the upper half. All freight, which is mostly base bullion, that is shipped from Eureka and other points on this branch ' road, has to be transferred here, and the traveler may sometimes be surprised, in passing, at the immense piles of bullion winch niav here be seen on the platform of the railroad companies. On a hill to the right is a wooden reservoir supplied by springs, from which the water used in town is taken. The canon above was not used for the , purposes of travel before the passage of the Cen- tral Pacific Road not even a horseman ventur- ing through it. Shoshone Indian Village. Just below the town is what Fenimore Cooper would doubt- less call an Indian Village, but it requires a great stretch of the imagination on the part of the prac- tical American, or live Yankee, now-a-days, to see it. A dozen or so tents, discolored with smoke and besmeared with dirt and grease, revealing from six to ten squalid beings, covered with ver- min, filth and rags, is not calculated to create a pleasing impression, or awaken imaginary flights to any great extent. Between Ogden and Battle I Mountain, the Indians now seen on the line of the road are mostly Shoshones. Their reservation proper, for this part of the country, is at Carlin, jo at very few of them are on it. For some reaso i best known to themselves, they prefer to look out for themselves rather than receive the small annual amount appropriated by the government for their maintenance. They are all inveterate gamblers, and a group of squaws will sit on the ground for hours, around a blanket stretched out, and throw sticks. There are usually five of these flat sticks, from four to six inches in length, one side of which is colored slightly. Each one has a rock, a piece of coal, or some other hard substance by her side, and slightly inclined toward the blanket. She will then gather the sticks in her hand and throw them upon this rock so that they will bound on to the blanket, and the point of the game seems to be, which side of the sticks, the colored or plain, comes up in falling. It seems to be a perfect game of chance, and the one who throws so that the sticks all fall colored side up, seems to have some advantage in the game. There is said to be some improvement in their methods of living during the last fifteen years ; some of them have been employed on ranches, and some* of the squaws are employed in doing the plainest kinds of housework; the children and younger mem- bers of the tribe are most all becoming acquainted with the English language, and all, so far as they are able, are gradually adopting the civilized customs of dress, etc., though they invariably, thus far, paint their faces. EUREKA AND PALISADE R. It. E. MILLS, President, ... EUREKA, NEV. P. EVEBTS, Gen'l Supt., - - " " J. L. FAST, " F.,P. &T. Agt., This is a three foot narrow-gauge road, run- ning south from Palisade to Eureka, ninety miles. It was completed in October, 1874, and is one of the best paying roads for the invest- ment in all the country. The cars are exceed- ingly neat and comfortable, and the average time nearly twenty-five miles an hour. The course is west, across the Humboldt River, and then south up Pine Valley, a region of sage brush, to Bullion 8 miles from Palisade. Next is EVANS, simply a side track, with the Cortez Mountains on the west or right, and the Dia- mond Range opposite. Agriculture is limited, but cattle and sheep find extensive ranges among the hills. Willard's is 15 miles from Palisade, and HAT RANCH 19 miles. Here are 2,500 acres ot meadow land owned by the railroad company. About 1,000 tons of Lay are cut and stored an- nually. From the terminus of the road at Eureka, the company send hay by teams of their own to southeastern Nevada as far as Pioche. They employ from 300 to 400 mules for freighting purposes, and their ranch shows unmistakable signs of profit to the road. Bo-v Springs 28 miles is a signal station. SCENES IN THE HUMBOLDT DESERT. t. The Sink of the Humboldt. 2. Mountain Scene near Deetb. 3. Group of Piute Indians. 4. Humboldt River. 5. Great American Desert, East of Elko. 6. Wadswortu. 199 Undoubtedly in the early history of the red men were to be found many examples of noble manhood in wild-life, but, alas ! all the romance, the nobility, and the qualities to be admired in this race, have curiously disappeared with the coming of the white man ; and here viewing the degraded condition of the remnant of a once powerful people, the traveler may better appre- ciate the vivid picture of their past and coming condition drawn by Longfellow: " How canst thou walk in these streets, who hast had the green turf of the prairies ? How canst thou breathe in this air, who hast breathed the sweet air of the mountains ? Ah ! 'tis vain that with lordly looks of disdain thou dost challenge Looks of dislike in return, and question these walls and these pavements, Claiming the soil for thy hunting grounds, while down-trodden millions Starve in the garrets of Europe, and cry from its caverns that they, too, Have been created heirs of the earth, and claim its division ! Back, then, back to thy woods in the regions west of the Wabash ! There as a monarch thou reignest. In autumn the leaves of the maple Pave the floors of thy palace-halls with gold, and in summer Pine trees waft through its chambers the odor- ous breath of its branches. Hark ! what murmurs arise from the heart of those mountainous deserts ? Is it the cry of the Foxes and Crows, or the mighty Behemoth, Who, unharmed, on his tusks once caught the bolts of the thunder, And now lurks in his lair to destroy the race of the red man ? Far more fatal to thee and thy race than the Crows and the Foxes, Far more fatal to thee and thy race than the tread of Behemoth, Lo! the big thunder-canoe that steadily breasts the Missouri's Merciless current ! And yonder afar on the prairies, the camp fires Gleam through the night; and the cloud of dust in the gray of day-break Marks not the buffalo's track, nor the Mandan's dexterous horse-race: It is a caravan, whitening the desert where dwell the Comanches ! Ha ! how the breath of these Saxons and Celts, like the blast of the east-wind, Drifts evermore to the west the scanty smokes of thy wigwams ! " Mineral 37 miles is the only eating sta- tion on the road. As usual on the U. P. and C. P. the charge for a meal is $1.00. Mineral derives its name from a famous pocket mine on the east, out of which several million dollars were taken when the owners were willing to sell to an English company, who have been idle most of the time since purchasing. Deep Wells 42.5 miles was named from a well dug to supply teams with water. A team usually consisted of eighteen mules, and the charge for water was 81. 00. Alpha is a small station with kilns of char- coal. After leaving Alpha the road crosses Willow Creek and continues to PINE STATION, another unimportant place, to Cedar, a name common for the trees around it. The country is rough, the road crooked, and the grades heavy to Summit, the dividing ridge between Pine and Diamond Valleys. The road follows Dia- mond Valley, and makes a great horseshoe curve of peculiar interest to the tourist, to Garden Pass and DIAMOND, unimportant stations, to Eureka, a town with a population of 6,000, great enterprise, public spirit and prosperity. The activity in mining industry is apparent from sixteen furnaces, with a capacity of from fifty to eighty tons of ore each, daily, and with seven smelting works. The principal hotels are the Jackson and the Parker. There are two daily papers the Republican and the Sentinel. The various smelting and refining works are accommodated by the " Euby Hill " Railroad six miles in all connected with the Eureknand Palisade Road. Eureka is the base of supplies for Hamilton 40 miles and all the White Pine country; Austin, 80 miles; Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 miles; Tybo, 100 miles, and Bel- mont, 100 miles. Stages connect all these points with Eureka. Leaving Palisade, the traveler will notice the railroad bridge, a short distance out, on which the narrow gauge crosses the river on its way south as it enters Pine Valley. The channel of the river has been turned from its bed by a heavy embank- ment, a work rendered necessary to avoid a short curve, and on we go over a very crooked piece of road for nearly six miles, when we cross the river, and the valley again opens. We have now passed through the Twelve Mile Canon, and arrive at Cluro a way-station, 516 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,785 feet. Trains do not stop unless signaled. The valley becomes wider, the hills more sloping and less high as they border the valley, but away to the left are the higher peaks of the Cortez Moun- tains. We now enter an open basin, and on the right we see the old emigrant road making up the hill from Gravelly Ford. One branch of this road, leading to the same ford, we also cross, but the old roadway, plainly visible from the cars, up the hill on the north side of the river, marks the locality of the ford itself. The river hero spreads over a wide gravelly bed, and is 200 a c > fe ^ r 201 always shallow so that it is easily crossed. The emigrants, in the days of ox and mule trains, took advantage of this crossing to send letters, either one way or the other, by outward bound or returning trains. They would split a willow sprout by the side of the road and put their let- ters in it, which would be taken out by some one in the first train and carried to the nearest post- office on the route. In 1858, it is said, that an Indian massacre took place here, in which 18 emigrants were killed ; and other skirmishes with the gentle red men, were frequently in order. The old emi- grant road is fairly lined with the graves of emi- grants, who perished on their way to the land of finally come to believe it themselves ; and this may account for the many wonderful stories that have been palmed off on some book-makers, and by them, in turn, hashed up for the traveling public. Travelers can always hear all they choose, but it is well to be a little cautious about believing all they hear. The Maiden's Grave. There is hardly an old resident on this coast, but who has some in- cident to relate in reference to Gravelly Ford. It was not only an excellent crossing place, but it was also a fine camping place, where both man and beast could recruit after the weary days on the dreary plains. There were wide bottom- lands that offered excellent grazing for stock, ENTERING HUMBOLDT CANON. gold, or in returning from the same. There are, also, many of the Shoshoues and Piutes now living, who have been made cripples in these battles and skirmishes with the emigrants. They will talk about them with their acquaint- ances, and say " heap of white men killed there," but can seldom be induced to say how many Indians were slain in the same conflict. Indeed, parties representing each side of the contending forces have become well acquainted, and now frequently meet each other on friendly terms. There is a disposition, also, among these old plainsmen " to spin yarns," equal to any old navigator that ever lived, and one has to be ex- tremely cautious as to what he believes. These old story-tellers are like old Jim Bridger they will tell a lie so often and so earnestly, that they and the small brush along the banks of the stream gave excellent shade and firewood. On a low point of land that juts out toward the river on the south side of the track, and just be- low this ford, is the Maiden's Grave. Tradition has it that she was one of a party of emigrants from Missouri, and that, at this ford, while they were in camp, she sickened and died. Her lov- ing friends laid hereaway to rest in a grave on this point of land, in plain sight of the ford and of the valley for miles in either direction. But while her remains were crumbling into dust, and she, too, was fading from the memory of all, per- haps, but her immediate relatives, the railroad builders came along, and found the low mound, and the decayed head-board which marked her resting-place. With that admiration of, and de- 202 votion to woman, which characterizes American citizens of even humble origin, they made a new grave and surrounded it with an enclosure a picket fence, painted white and by the side of it erected a cross, the emblem of the Christian's faith, which bears on one side, this legend " The Maiden's Grave" and on the other, her name, " Lucinda Duncan." All honor to the men whose respect for the true woman led them to the per- formance of this praiseworthy act an act which would have been performed by no race under the heavens, but ours ; and not by them, indeed, to the remains, under similar circumstances, of a representative of the sterner sex. The location of this grave is near Beowawe, and the point is now used as a burial ground by the people living in the vicinity. Passing the point where the grave is located, an extended valley comes in from the left, south of which extends the Cor- tez Range of Mountains. We now arrive at Beowawe 507 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,695 feet. It has a hotel, a few dwellings, and is the station where the business of the Cortez Mining District is transacted. There is a beautiful signification attached to the name of this station, which will be more fully realized after the station is passed, than before. It means " gate," or " the gate," and as you look back from below, the conformation of the hills on either side of the valley is such, that the sta- tion seems to stand in an open gateway, up the Humboldt Valley to the canon beyond. The valley is occasionally dotted with farm-houses, or ranches, and besides stock raising, which is one of the principal features of this part of the country, there is considerable done in the way of agriculture, barley being the chief crop yield- ing immensely when the land is properly irri- gated and the crops taken care of. At Beowawe an immense stretch of valley land can be seen away to the right, with a range of mountains, which seems to be an extension of the Reese River Range, north of the Humboldt, west of it. As the river bends northward to meet these val- leys, it receives the waters of Boulder and Rock Creeks, which come in from the north and north- east. These creeks open up a vast country, which is well occupied by ranches and stock- men. Leaving Beowawe, we cross a large valley and sage brush plain the valley coining in from the south. A few miles out, we notice, if the weather is at all cool, steam rising from the side of the mountain, while colored streaks, caused by the sediment of the springs, can clearly be seen from the passing train. This steam comes from the Hot Springs on the mountain side, and the sediment marks their locality. The water in some of these springs is boiling hot, and par- takes strongly of sulphur. The springs are also impregnated with iron. A creek of al- kali water comes down from the springs, and we cross it on the flat alluded to, and the wid valley off to the right is still better seen as we approach and pass Shoshone, 546 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,636 feet. It is simply a side track station. Rock Creek, before spoken of, comes into the Humboldt nearly opposite this place, and the broad valley continues, on the right of the road. The station is called Shoshone Point by the people in the valley, because a mountain, or high ridge, pushes out into the valley, like a promontory. This is one of the landmarks on the dividing line between the Shoshone and Piute tribes of Indians ; but the line we con- sider purely imaginary, from the fact that Indi- ans, as a general thing, go where they please in this country, lines or no lines. The wide basin spoken of, continues below and off to the right of this station, and, as we pass on, a long line of board fence will be noticed stretching, from a point high up on the mountain, across the track and valley toward the Humboldt River, on the right. This is the eastern line of Dunphy & Hil- dreth's stock ranche. In seven miles we shall pass the western line, or fence. We have be- fore spoken of Iliff, as the cattle king of the plains, and, while this is true east of the Black Hills of Wyoming, he will have to yield the crown to some of the cattle kings of the Pacific Coast. This firm has 20 miles of fencing in these two lines : They have over 20 thousand acres fenced in. Their fences, made of redwood posts and Oregon pine boards, cost them a little over ($900 per mile. They have, altogether, about 40,000 head of cattle, mainly in two herds one here and the other north, on the Snake River. They have purchased of the State, government and Central Pacific Railroad and now own about 30,000 acres of land. Most of their cattle are shipped to, and find a market in San Francisco. The immense range fenced in at this point is occupied by a select herd of graded stock, and some of the best blooded animals in the country are annually purchased to improve the grades. The Humboldt Valley and its tributaries con- stitute the best part of the State for stock ranges. The snow seldom falls very deep, does not stay long, and the grass makes its appear- ance early in the spring. The purchase of large tracts of land by these f oresighted cattle- men will give them a monopoly of the business in the future. Ai-genta 486 miles from San Francisco; elevation, 4,548 feet. It is simply a side track station, where considerable hay is shipped. This station is immediately surrounded by alkali flats, near the base of the Reese River Moun- tains. The road continues for a few miles along the base of these mountains, when sud- denly a broad valley opens out on the left. It is the valley of Reese River. We turn to 203 the right, cross the valley and the river all there is left of it and arrive at Battle Mnwntain 474 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,511 feet the junction of the Nevada Central Railway, has a population of 700. It is located at the junction of the Reese River and Humboldt Valleys. The mountain which gives it its name is about three miles south of the station, where there are magnificent springs from which water is conducted to the town, supplying the railroad and inhabitants with water. In the midst of a surrounding desert he will observe the flow- ing fountain and patches of green grass which will here greet his eyes, together with the evi- dent taste and care which is manifested about everything connected with the house. The town has several quite extensive stores, a public hall, an excellent school-house, two large freight depots, and the " Capital," a first- class hotel, the table being bountifully supplied with all the delicacies of the season; besides the machine shops of the Nevada Central Rail- way. It has an extensive and rapidly increasing trade with the surrounding country, and newly developed mining districts in its neighborhood. It is the business center of a large number of stockmen, and the trading point for a large number of mining districts districts consid- erably scattered over quite a large part of the State. The town is located in Lander County, but is not the county-seat. Austin, ninety milesteway, claims that honor. The following mining districts, south of the railroad, are more or less tributary to Battle Mountain; -commencing on the east side of the Reese River Range, first is the Lewis Mining District, sixteen miles distant from Battle Mountain. It is located on the northern ex- tremity of the range. At the southern ex- tremity of this range is the Austin District. The mountain range between these two districts is said to contain mines, but it has not been thoroughly prospected. The Reese River Val- ley is about 160 miles long, traversed its entire length by the river of the same name, though it eannot be called much of a river where the railroad crosses it, near Battle Mountain. The upper portion of the valley, about fifty miles in length, is a very fine agricultural district, is quite well settled, and is tributary to Austin. The valley is also settled in places where moun- tain -streams come into it, between Battle Mountain and Austin. On the west side of the Reese River Valley, and immediately south of Battle Mountain, are the following districts: Battle Mountain Dis- trict, seven miles distant; Galena District, six- teen miles; Copper Canon, eighteen miles, and Jersey, fifty-five miles. The copper mines are owned by an English company. The Jersey District produces smelting ore. North of Bat- tle Mountain are the Cornucopia and Tuscarora Districts. Battle Mountain not north of the Humboldt River, but about three miles south of the sta- tion is reported to have been the scene of a conflict between a party of emigrants camped near the springs heretofore spoken of, and a band of redskins who had an innate hankering after the stock of the said party of emigrants. The losses of this battle are said to^have been quite severe on both sides, considering the numbers engaged. It is generally conceded, however, that the redskins got the worst of it, though they say, " A heap white men killed there." Battle Mountain is supplied with water from artesian wells, of which there are more than a dozen from 101) to 280 feet in depth. The flow is good, one discharging through an inch and a half pipe seven feet above the surface of the ground. There are daily stages to Tuscarora 68 miles fare, $10.00; to Cornucopia, 80 miles, $12.00; Columbia, 130 miles, $20.00, and Mountain City, 100 miles, $15.00. NEVADA CENTRAL RAILWAY. JOSEPH COLLETT, - - President and Supt. F. W. DUNN, Assistant Supt. 0. W. HJNCHCLIFFE, - Sec. & G. F. & P. Agt. R. AMEKMAN, -- - Cashier. Leaving Battle Mountain the road passes up through the Reese River Valley in full view of Lewis and Galena, respectively situated in the mountain ranges lying to the east and west of the track. At Galena Station, eleven miles south of Battle Mountain, connections are made with the Battle Mountain and Lewis Railway, a narrow-gauge railway running up into the mountains to Lewis, eight miles dis- tant. The celebrated Star Grove mines are situated up a beautiful canon, three miles above Lewis. The Battle Creek mine lies to the south. Lewis is a thriving and prosperous town, having a rapidly growing population, two good hotels, numerous stores and two 20-stamp mills; a new 40-stamp mill is being con- structed, and when completed the camp will be able to turn out twenty bars of bullion per day. Leaving Galena Station we continue up the valley, passing ANSONIA, twenty-five miles dis- tant, near which station are about sixty hot springs, covering half a section of land the largest is sixty feet long, thirty wide, and rises and falls from three to five feet; the medicinal qualities are surpassed by none in the State until we reach BKTDGES, eight miles south of Ansonia, the regular eating station for all trains. Leaving Bridges we enter the pictur- esque Reese River Canon, twenty miles ir> length. The valleys in the canon are cultivated and productive of rich crops of hay and grain. 204 The tfreat Plains and Desert. BY JOAQUIN MILLER. Go ye and look upon that land, That far, vast land that few behold, And none beholding, understand ; That old, old land, which men call new, That land as old as time is old : Go journey with the seasons through Its wastes, and learn how limitless, How shoreless lie the distances, Before you come to question this, Or dare to dream what grandeur is. The solemn silence of that plain, Where unmanned tempests ride and reign, It awes and it possesses you, 'Tis, oh, so eloquent. The blue And bended skies seem built for it, With rounded roof all fashioned fit, And frescoed clouds, quaint-wrought and true : While all else seems so far, so vain, An idle tale but illy told, Before this land so lone and old. Lo ! here you learn how more than fit, And dignified is silence, when You hear the petty jeers of men, Who point, and show their pointless wit. The vastness of that voiceless plain, Its awful solitudes remain, Thenceforth for aye a part of you, And you are of the favored few, For you have learned your littleness. Some silent red men cross your track ; Some sun-tann'd trappers come and go; Some rolling seas of buffalo Break thunder-like and far away, Against the foot hills, breaking back, Like breakers of some troubled bay ; But not a voice the long, lone day. Some white taiPd antelope flow by, So airy-like ; some foxes shy, And shadow-like shoot to and fro, Like weaver's shuttles as you pass ; And now and then from out the grass, You hear some lone bird chick, and cah, A sharp keen call for her lost brood. That only make the solitude, That mantles like some sombre pall, Seem deeper still, and that is all. A wide domain of mysteries, And signs that men misunderstand ! A land of space and dreams : a land Of sea, salt lakes and dried up seas i A land of caves and caravans, And lonely wells and pools. A land That hath its purposes and plans, That seem so like dead Palestine, Save that its wastos have no confine, Till pushed against the levell'd skies. 205 On either side and above the railroad rise up precipitous mountain ranges, whose untold mineral wealth is yet to be brought to the sur- face and developed. Emerging from the canon we stop at HALLSVAiiE, twenty -three miles south of Bridges, at which station is a large boarding- house, owned by the company, and used for the accommodation of the trackmen and labor- ers. Between Hallsvale and SILVER CBEEK five miles are four wood stations, from which during the past season 18,000 cords of wood have been shipped to the mines and mills at Austin and Lewis. From Silver Creek we traverse the banks of the Reese River, pass- ing several fertile ranches until we reach LEDLIE, eighty-seven miles from Battle Moun- tain. Ledlie is the distributing station for freight destined to all points in central and southern Nevada, from where, in connection with the railroad, are run the fast freight teams of Wrayner's line, transporting freight to lone, Grantsville, Ellsworth, Gold Mountain, Silver Peak, Belmont, Jefferson, Kingston and minor camps. To accommodate this traffic, 250 mules and 60 wagons are employed. Leaving Ledlie the railroaci ascends the foot- hills and reaches AUSTIN, six and a half miles distant, with an elevation of 6,021 feet. Aus- tin is a city of 3,000 inhabitants, of con- siderable spirit and culture. It is the county- seat of Lander County, has a fine court-house, three churches, a comfortable theatre, a large brick school-building, a banking hou,se, numer- ous large business blocks, a good hotel and some magnificent residences. A street rail- way connects at the depot, transporting both passengers and freight from one of the city to the other. At the upper end of the city are the mines and mills of the Manhattan Silver Mining Company, shipments averaging ten bars of bullion per day, or $300,000 per month. Daily stages, carrying passengers, mail and express, leave Austin for Kingston, Jefferson, Belmont, lone, Grantsville, Clover- dale and Candelaria, to and from which points the Nevada Central Railway, in connection with the stages, forms as peedy and pleasant route. Ho w the Flutes Catch Fish. Nearly all the Indians seen on the line of the road be- tween Battle Mountain and Reno, are Piutes. They are great rabbit-hunters, and very success- ful in fishing. They make hooks from rabbit bones and greasewood, which are certainly su- perior to the most improved article made by the whites. This hook is in the shape of what might be called the letter " V " condensed ; that is, the prongs do not spread very far. A line, made of the sinews of animals, or the bark of a species of wild hemp, is attached to this hook at the angle, and baited with a snail or fresh water bloodsucker. Several of these hooks are tied to a heavier line, or a piece of light rope, one above the other, so far that they will not become tan- gled or snarled. A stone is then tied to the end of the heavy line, and it is cast into the stream. The fish take the bait readily, but Mr. Indian does not " pull up " when be feels one fish on the line. He waits until the indications are that several fish are there one on each hook and then he pulls out the heavy line, with fish and all. It seems that the hooks are so made that they can be swallowed easily enough with the bait, but as soon as the fish begins to struggle, the string acts on both prongs of the hook, pulling it straight, the ends of the letter " V " hook, of course, piercing its throat. It can neither swal- low it, nor cast it forth from its mouth. The more it pulls and struggles, the more straight- ened the hook becomes. Besides the superiority of this hook, one fish being caught, others are naturally drawn around it, and seize the tempt- ing bait upon the fatal hook. In this way an In- dian will catch a dozen or so fish, while a white man, with his fancy rod and " flies " and " spoons," and other inventions to lure the finny tribes and tempt them to take a bait, will eaten not one. Leaving Battle Mountain we have a straight track for about 20 miles, across a sage brush plain, the river and a narrow strip of bottom- lands, on our right. Piute, 469 miles from San Francisco, with no elevation given, and Coin, 462 miles from San Francisco, are simply side track stations where trains meet and pass, but of no importance to the traveler. There was no Indian battle fought near Piute, nor does the Reese River sink into the valley here. What battle there was, was fought, as before stated, about three miles south of Battle Mountain Sta- tion, and what the sands in the valley do not ab- sorb of the waters of Reese River, may be seen a little alkali stream flowing across the railroad track, east of Battle Mountain, to effect a junc- tion with the Humboldt River. Stone House, 455 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,422 feet. This was not an old trading post, but a station in former times of the Overland Stage Company, and the house, built of stone near some very fine springs, was one of the eating-houses on their line, where travelers could relish square meals of bacon and coffee with safety. There is no particular ravine near the old ruins which the traveler would notice as an impregnable fortress. Quito a number of skirmishes are reported to have taken place near this station, however, and the graves yet distinguished in its vicinity tell of the num- ber who were killed near this place, or died here on their journey to the golden shores of the Pacific. Stone House Mountain, as it is now called, rears its head just back of the crumbling ruins, and from its summit a most extensive and beautiful view of the neighboring valleys and 206 surrounding country can be obtained. On the western slope of this mountain, and about seven miles from the station, are some hot springs similar to others found in the Great Basin. During the passage of the Humboldt Valley we cress several dry valleys, between ranges of mountains that' seem to be cut in twain by the river. These valleys are mostly covered with sand and sage brush ; occasionally they have streams flowing down from the moun- tains which soon sink in the sands. There is a wide valley ot this description north of the track as we approach Iron Point 442 miles from San Francisco; elevation, 4,375 feet. This station is near the point of a low ridge, witli barren sides and rocky summit; the rocks a little reddish, indi- cating the proximity of iron. It is a shipping point for cattle, and has extensive stock yards, though there are no other accommodations near by. This ridge was formerly considered the boundary line between the Shoshones and Piutes, and a trespass by either party has been the cause of many an Indian war. The wasting away of these tribes, however, renders the line simply imaginary, and the rights of either party to exclusive privileges on either side are no longer regarded. The valley now narrows, and we pass through a sort of a canon, with high bluffs on both sides of the road. We wind round numerous curves, and after the canon is passed, we shall see the remains of an old irrigating ditch that was started here by a French com- pany to take water from the Humboldt and carry it down the valley quite a distance for irrigating and mill purposes. A great amount of labor and money was expended upon this enterprise, but it was finally abandoned. Emerging from a short canon, the valley again begins to widen. This pass was called Emigrant Canon in the days of wagon travel. Golconda 431 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,385 feet. The little town here has one or two stores, a hotel, several adobe houses, and the usual railroad conven- iences. Golconda is favorably located, as re- gards two or three important mining districts. It is also the location of some eight or ten hot mineral springs, which are passed on the right side of the track, just after leaving town. These springs vary in temperature from cool, or tepid water, to that which is boiling hot. The swimming bath an excavation in the ground is supplied with tepid water, and is said to be very exhilarating. The Boiling Spring is util- ized by the farmers in the valley in scalding their swine. The water is said to be hot enough to boil an egg in one minute. Here clouds of steam can be seen when the weather is cold, rising from the hot water and warm soil sur- rounding. One of the springs near this station is also a curiosity, and should be visited by tourists. It is conical in shape, like an inverted tea-cup, four or five feet high, with a basin about three feet in diameter on the top. For- merly the water came in at the bottom of this basin and bubbled over the rim; but a few years since it was tapped from below, and the water now flows out at the side, leaving the basin and cone as it was formed by the sedi- mentary incrustations and deposit. The water flowing from the hot spring is used for irrigat- ing purposes, and the owners of the spring have a monopoly of early vegetable "garden truck," raising early radishes, lettuce, onions, etc. , before their season, by the warmth pro- duced from the hot water. Sunday excursion trains are run from Winne- mucca to accommodate parties who desire to enjoy the luxury of these springs. Gold Kun Mining District, south of Golconda, is tributary to the place. Paradise District, of gold and silver mines, is about eighteen miles north of Golconda. T\ile 420 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,313 feet. It is simply a side track of no importance to travelers, and trains seldom stop. After leaving Golconda, we look toward the north and see the opening of Eden Valley. East of this val- ley, and to our right, is the Soldier's Spring Range, a broken range of moun- tains. Eden Valley extends north to the Little Humboldt River. In fact, this river flows through the upper portion of the valley, and rises in the range just named, and flows in a south-westerly direction through Paradise Valley and unites with the Humboldt, nearly opposite, north of Tule. Paradise Valley is a fine agricultural basin, thickly settled, about 30 miles north. Paradise Valley is the name of the post-office a semi-weekly line of mail stages connecting it with Winnemucca, the county-seat of Humboldt County. This valley is shaped like a horseshoe, and produces superior crops of barley, wheat, rye and all kinds of vegetables. It seems to have a depression in the center, and, while it is nearly all cultivated, the best crops are raised on the slopes toward the mountains. The soil is a black, graVelly loam, and sage brush grows on the slopes to enormous size. Experiments in fruit culture have been tried, but, thus far, with indifferent success. Paradise Valley has a flour- ing-mill, store and dwellings, and gives every in- dication of thrift. Its name indicates the high esteem in which it is held by the settlers. It is nearly surrounded by mountains, and the numer- ous streams flowing down from them, afford am- ple water for irrigation. Most of these streams sink in the ground before they reach the Little Humboldt. Five miles beyond Tule, we reach lt r i unemucca, 463 miles from San Fran- cisco ; elevation, 4,332 feet. It is named in honor of the chief of the Piute tribe of Indians. 207 The name itself means " chief," and is given (to any member of the tribe who holds that office. The Piutes are divided into several bands, each under a chief they call "Captain," thought here to be derived from the Spanish, and to mean the same as our English word, " captain." Winnemucca is now about seventy -six years old, and lives on the Malheur Reservation in Oregon a reservation occupied by the Piutes and Bannocks. He is very much respected almost worshipped by his dusky followers. The town is the county-seat of Humboldt County, and has a population of about 900 peo- WTNITItMXJCCA. TOE NAPOLKOK OF TH PIUTE*. pie, among whom are some Indians, and quite a number of Chinamen. It is the western ter- minus of the Humboldt Division of the Central Pacific, has a large roundhouse, two large freight depots and the usual offices, etc. , for the accom- modation of the railroad business. An elegant brick court-house has been erected, together with several stores.hotels, shops, alargeflouring-mill, a foundry, a 10-stamp quartz mill, with a capac- ity for crushing ten tons of ore every 24 hours, and other public improvements completed, or in contemplation. The town is divided into two parts upper and lower; the latter being built on the bottom land near the river, and the upper on a huge sand-bank, adjoining the railroad. Most of the buildings are frame, though a few are built of brick or adobe, which, in this western country, are called " dobe " for short. There is a school-house with accommodations for about 150 pupils two apartments, and no churches. It is also quite a shipping point for cattle and wool. About 9,000 head of cattle were shipped to the San Francisco market from this place, in the months of January and Feb- ruary of the present year. In the spring of 1875, over 500,000 Ibs. of wool were shipped to New York and Boston markets. It is also the shipping point to Camp McDermott, near the northern line of the State; to Silver City and Boise City, Idaho; and to Baker and Grant counties, in southeastern Oregon. The stage lines are as follows: Daily stage and mail line to Silver City and Boise City, Idaho distance to Silver City, 210 miles, extension to Boise, 65 miles farther. The same line supplies Camp McDermott, 85 miles distant. Semi-weekly line, Mondays and Fridays, to Paradise Valley, 45 miles. There was also an immense freight- ing business done with the mining districts in the vicinity, and with Idaho Territory. Regu- lar freight lines are on the road between this place and Silver City. The following mining districts are tributary to Winnemucca and located in Humboldt County, beginning north of the railroad. Wil- low Creek, about 60 miles distant; Bartlett Creek, gold and silver, 100 miles distant. Varyville is the town of this camp. Central District, in Eugene Mountain, south- west of the town, produces silver ore. South of the railroad there is Jersey District and town, 65 miles distant. The business of this mining camp is divided between Battle Mountain and this place both claiming it. Antimony District is 80 miles due south of Winnemucca. Slabs of that mineral, weighing three tons, and averaging 70 per cent, pure antimony, can be obtained in this district. Near it is the Humboldt Salt Marsh, where salt, 95 per cent, pure, can be shoveled up by the wagon load. This salt deposit is very ex- tensive, and the supply seems to be exhaustless. Underneath the surface deposit, rock salt, or salt in large cakes or slabs, is taken out in the driest part of the season, by the ton. In the valley leading to the above-named dis- trict are some very fine hot springs, but they are so common here as to be no curiosity. Kyle's, 35 miles southwest, and Leach's, 8 miles from Unionville, the old county -seat, and Gol- conda, 16 miles, to which Sunday excursions trains run, are the most noted. Twelve miles out, in the same valley, is a rich agricultural district, thickly settled, where not only grain and vegetables have been successfully cultivat- ed, but the experiments in fruit culture have 208 also proved successful. At the county fair, held in this city during the fall of 1875, fine specimens of apples, peaches, pears and plums were exhibited which were raised in this valley. As the tourist walks the platform at this place, looking across the river to the right, he will see Winnemucca Mountain, but a short distance away, overlooking the town. To the left, he will observe the peaks of the Franklin or Sonoma Bange. To the east, and somewhat distant, are the ragged summits of the Soldier's Spring Range, while a little to the southwest, but apparently in front, Eugene Mountain lifts itself up as a landmark to guide the traveler on his way. This mountain will be passed on our left as we continue the journey. "Winnemuc- ca has one newspaper the Daily Silver State. tribe, to their honor be it said, licentiousness among their women is very rare, and virtue is held in high esteem. But very few half -breed Indiana can be found, nor are they known in the State. This tribe, with the Bannocks, were especially hostile to the whites in an early day, and fought for many years with desperation and cruelty to prevent the settlement and development of this country. Their courage and deadly enmity have been displayed on many a hard-fought field, and if there are families in the East or on the Pacific Coast, who still mourn the loss of missing ones, who were last heard of as crossing the plains, some Indian warrior, yet living, might be able to explain the mystery which has enveloped their final doom. For a number of years, with cease- less vigilance, they hung aroung the trains ol TWO BITS TO SI Both are energetic little sheets, and fitly illus- trate the enterprise of these "Western towns. Across the river, over a wooden bridge, is located the cemetery, in which the remains of the dead are enclosed. It is on an elevated, sandy beach, the second terrace or step from the river level. By it winds the stage road to Idaho and the north. The Piutes have their tents scattered on all sides of the town, to which the euphoni- ous name of " "Wick-ee-ups " is given. They gerve to remind one of the departing glory if they ever had any of the Indian race. In this emigrants, eager to dispatch a stray victim, or upon the borders of settlements, ready to strike down the hardy pioneer at the first favorable opportunity. At present, overpowered by num- bers, they live upon the bounty of their former enemies, and are slowly, but surely, learning, by example, the waya of civilization. As a class, however, they are still indolent, dirty and cov- ered with vermin. But they begin to learn the worth of money, and know already that it has a purchasing power which will supply their scanty wardrobe, and satisfy their longing appetites. 209 The mines on the top of Winnemucca Moun- tain are plainly seen, and the road that leads to them from the cars, and the tourist from this will be able to understand something of the difficulties attending the process of getting out ore. These mines, like many others tributary to this point, are not worked at present. As we pass westward, a grand view of a distant range is obtained between Winnemucca and Black Butte. The last named moun- tain is an isolated peak, and stands out like a sentinel on guard. As we approach the higher peaks of the East or Humboldt Range, we pass Hose Creek 403 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,322 feet. It is an unimportant station, with side track, etc. You will have to look sharp to see the creek or the roses, and, by way of variety, you will dis- cover plenty of sage brush. It is a staple arti- cle in this country. The river still winds its way along our right, and there is an oc- casional ranch on the moun- tain slope, where the water from some spring or little creek can be obtained for irrigation. Raspberry 393 miles from San Fran- cisco; elevation 4,327 feet. If roses were few and far between at the last station, raspberries are less frequent here. But these names are tantalizing and suggestive in the places they are applied to. Having turned the point of East Kange, we bear off to the left. Eugene Mountain is now on our right, across the Humboldt Eiver. Mill City 386 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,225 feet. This was once a town with great prospects. It was to be the terminus of the irrigating ditch which we saw beyond Winnemucca and Golconda. The town has become a great shipping point K. B. STATION, HUMBOLDT, NEVADA. for cattle 100 cars being shipped last year a number which is greatly exceeded in some years. It has a steam foundry in operation mostly employed in the manufacture and re- pair of mining machinery and is the railroad point where the business of several mining dis- tricts is done. Ore from Dun Glen, Union- ville and Star City, comes here for shipment, and once per week, bullion comes over from Unionville. This last place was formerly more lively than at present. It is a town of about 300 people has four quartz mills in operation, and is connected with Mill City by a daily stage line, which passes by Star City distance to Unionville, twenty miles; to Star City, ten miles; to Dun Glen, eight miles. The general course of the railroad being east and west, these places are all south of it. The mining- districts, in- cluding the towns named, which are tributary to this place, are Unionville, Star and Indi- an Districts all tributary to Mill City. Mill City has a neat little hotel, a livery stable and several dwellings. Leaving Mill City, we pass rapidly by an opening or gap in the moun- tains on our left, while a broad extent of valley opens out on our right as Eu- gene Mountain sinks into the plain. The river recedes from our view, and winds along across an alkali flat some six or seven miles away. In coming down this valley from Mill City, we pass a high mountain on our left said to be the highest peak in Nevada 8, 000 feet high. It is called Star Peak. The elevation given is the common rumor in the vicinity. It is cer- tainly a high mountain, and its lofty towers are nearly always covered with snow. Opposite, this mountain is Humboldt 423 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,236 feet above the sea 210 nearly the same as the Great Salt Lake. We have been coming dovn hill all the way from Wells, and yet we are no lower than when we left Ogden. We have now arrived at An Oasis in the Desert. The traveler from the East, will be especially delighted with this spot. It will remind him of things human, of living in a land of cultivation again. The first growing trees since leaving Ogden will be seen here, with green grass, shady bowers and flowing fountains. Humboldt House is a regular breakfast and supper station, at which all passenger trains stop for meals. The proprietors have been here quite a number of years, and seem to delight in making their house, and surroundings beautiful and attractive to the traveling public. A fountain surrounded with an iron fence, springs up in front of the house, while gold-fish swim around in the basin below. East of the house, trees, locusts and poplars are growing finely, while the ground is covered with a thick matting of blue-grass. At first this lot was sown to alfalfa, which grew very rank and strong. Blue-grass seed was afterwards sown, and now it has rooted every- thing else out and grows luxuriantly. A field south of the road toward the mountain, has prc- .duced 18 tons of alfalfa at one cutting, and has been cut from five to seven times a year. In the garden north of the house, toward the valley, all kinds of vegetables grow luxuriantly. The average yield of potatoes is 300 bushels to the acre, of the very best quality. We were, how-, ever, particularly interested in the experiments made in fruit growing. Here in the midst, almost, of the Great Nevada Desert, with barren- ness and desolation spread out on every hand with a high rocky mountain on one side, and a huge alkali flat on the other, nestled under the towering cliffs as though it would claim shelter and protection, is this Oasis in the desert, this reminder of more genial climes and a more kindly soil this relief from the wearisome, dreary views, which have everywhere met our gaze, over the largest part of the journey. The experiments so successful here prove, beyond a doubt, that the desert can be reclaimed and " made to bud and blossom as the rose." Grit, labor and above all, water, will do it. Here is an orchard of apple trees five years old, bearing not only fruit as beautiful to the eye as that raised in California, but superior in flavor in fact retaining the flavor of eastern apples. These apple trees of all varieties are prolific bearers, and the same is true of the peaches, pears, plums and cherries. In the orchard and opposite the water tank, is a fish-pond some 25 or 30 feet in diameter. In it are trout, great speckled fellows, veiy thick and very shy. Rocky coves have been built for them in the bottom and center of the basin, and here they hide seeking snade from the rays of the hot sum- mer's sun, and also from those of the silvery moon. The experiments first made with these fish were costly, but have at last proved suc- cessful. This place and its surroundings cause the traveler not only to rejoice over the scene which here greets his gaze, but serves to remind him of home of " God's country " either in the far East or, at this point, in the nearer "W est In the fish-pond mentioned, there are a couple of wild geese, and a Mandarin duck said to be from Japan. It is a beautiful little creature with tufts of feathers on each side of its head, and finely colored plumage. The proprietors of the Humboldt House, seem to strive to offer attractions to their guests in both their indoor accommodations, and outside arrangements. The station has shipped a large number of cattle, and is the shipping point for the sulphur or brimstone, that is manufactured some thirty miles northwest of the place. The old emi- grant road leading to Northern California and Southern Oregon, winds around the base of Eugene Mountain and near a low butte, re- sembling a haystack, which can be seen in the distance across the lalkali flats. This road was laid out by General F. W. Lander, who was killed in the war of 1861, and is said to be one of the best wagon routes to the regions named. The Humboldt House is the place of resort for tourists who desire to visit the sulphur mines, Star Peak, or the mining districts in the Hum- boldt Range, Eugene Mountain, and the Ante- lope Range. The latter is a low range on our right, beginning as we leave this station, in front and south-east of the Humboldt House, is the Humboldt Mining District, four to six miles distant. Humboldt Canon opens in the mountain side, in which was formerly located Humboldt City. Mines were first discovered in the rocky gorges of this range in 1861, and there was a great rush here from all parts of the country. The " City " sprang up as if by magic, and at one time contained about 500 people. Several sub- stantial buildings were erected, a few of which still remain. The mines were diligently pros- pected; but, not rewarded with immediate suc- cess, the expense of living and building being very great, together with the determined hos- tility of the Indians, the people left it as sud- denly as they came. The district remained idle until 1874-5, when work was again begun by a few individuals. The ore is gold, silver and argentiferous galena. Antelope District is sixteen miles away, in a westerly direction; Geneva District is twenty- one miles distant, in a northwesterly direction; both of these are but little developed. The sulphur mines are thirty miles away, in a northwesterly direction. Very large deposits of native sulphur are found in these mines, which will average nearly 75 per cent, pure- 211 Tliere are two mines opened. One called the Me Worthy Mine, located and developed by Mr. Me Worthy, is now operated by a Ban Francisco company. The product of this mine is refined by retorts, three in number, which are now in active operation, and which are capable of pro- ducing about three tons per day of twenty -four hours. The mines of the Pacific Sulphur Com- pany are about one and one-half miles distant from the Me Worthy Mines. They were formerly known as the Wright and Egbert Mines. The ore, as it comes from the mine, is a mixture of sulphur, clay, gypsum, water. This company fuses the crude or mixed ore by heat, and then separates them by a chemical process, which is claimed to be very simple, prodticing the "brimstone " of commerce, nearly 100 per cent, fine. The deposits lie in the hills, and are found from 20 to 100 feet thick. They arc also found in some of the adjoining valleys, but are not as pure in. the valleys as in the hills. They are covered with ashes and mixed with extrane- ous matter. In fact, wherever these deposits come to the surface, they are covered with ashes, nearly white in color, indicating that at some period they were on fire, and that the fire was extinguished smothered by the accumulation of these ashes. When " the elements shall melt with fervent heat," the vast sulphur de- posits of Nevada will add fuel to the flames and greatly accelerate the melting process. Aboiit half a mile west of Humboldt, on our right, is a sulphur deposit. It is not worked for the reason of its impurities a far better ar- ticle of crude is being obtained elsewhere. The river, still on our right, seems to have cut a deeper channel in the valley, and is seldom seen from the cars. On our left are the towering peaks of the Humboldt Kange. A Vigilance Committee Incident. The following incident which happened in one of the Nevada mining towns, is vouched for by Clar- ence King : Early in the fifties, on a still, hot summer's afternoon, a certain man, in a camp of the northern mines, which shall be nameless, having tracked his two donkeys and one horse a half mile, and discovering that a man's track with spur marks followed them, came back to town and told " the boys," who loitered about a popu- lar saloon, that in his opinion some Mexican had stolen the animals. Such news as this demanded, naturally, drinks all round. " Do you know, gentlemen," said one who as- sumed leadership, " that just naturally to shoot these greasers aint the best way? Give 'em a fair jury trial, and rope 'em up with all the majesty of the law. That's the cure." Such words of moderation were well received, and they drank again to "Here's hoping we ksteh that greaser." A? the*' loafed back to the veranda, a Mexican walked over the hill brow, jingling nis spurs pleasantly in accord with a whistled waltz. The advocate for the law said in an undertone, " That's the cuss." A rush, a struggle, and the Mexican, bound hand and foot, lay on his back in the bar-rooai. The camp turned out to a man. Happily such cries as " String him up ! " "Iiuir the dogyoned lubricator ! " and other equally pleas- ant phrases fell unheeded upon his Spanish ear. A jury was quickly gathered in the street, and despite refusals to serve, the crowd hurried them in behind the bar. A brief statement of the case was made by the ci-devant advocate, and they showed the jury in- to a commodious poker-room where were seats grouped about neat green tables. The noise outside, in the bar-room, by and by died away into complete silence, but from afar down the canon came confused sounds as of disorderly cheering. They came nearer, and again the light-hearted noise of human laughter mingled with clinking glasses around the bar. A low knock at the jury door, the lock burst in, and- a dozen smiling fellows asked the ver- dict. A foreman promptly answered, "No! guilty." With volleyed oaths, and ominous laying cf hands on pistol hilts, the boys slammed the door with " You'll have to do better than that." In half an hour the advocate gently opened the door again. " Your opinion, gentlemen 1 " " Guilty." " Correct, you can come out. We hung him an hour ago." The jury took theirs next, and when, after a few minutes, the pleasant village returned to its former tranquility, it was " allowed " at more th;u> one saloon, that "Mexicans'll know enough to let white men's stock alone after this." Ono and another exchanged the belief that this sovt of thing was more sensible than " nipping 'em ou sight." When, before sunset, the bar-keeper concluded to sweep some dust out of his poker-rocm back- door,'he felt a momentary surprise at finding the missing horse dozing under the shadow of an oak, and the two lost donkeys serenely masticat- ing playing-cards, of which many bushels lay in a dirty pile. He was then reminded that the animals had been there all day. Rye Patch, 411 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,257 feet. In early days, in the canons that put down from the mountains near here and along the banks of the little creeks flowing through them, there were large patches of wild rye, from which the station took its name. The increase, however, in the herds of the stockmen has destroyed its native growth, and it is now seldom seen. It is a small station with a store and saloon, freicht-house, side track. 212 etc. It is the location of a ten-stamp mill owned by the Rye Patch Mill and Mining Company, and which is supplied by ore taken from the company's mine in the mountains on our left. This mine is about four miles distant from the station. The Rye Patch Mining District, and the Eldorado Mining District, six miles away, are tributary to this place. The train stops but a moment, and as you look to the mountains, on the left, two high peaks are seen the left one being Stark Peak, and the right one Eldorado Mountain. This is the best view of these mount- ains that can be obtained. Leaving this station, the mountains of the Humboldt Range gradually dwindle into hills, and a conical or isolated little peak across the 'range is seen. It seems fully as prominent as a wart on a man's nose. It is called Black Knob a very appropriate name and near it is Relief Mine and mill. There is no stage to this mining district, and its principal business point is Oreana, 400 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,181 feet. The descent from Humboldt has been quite rapid, and we will soon be at the lowest elevation in this great basin. The Antelope Range continues on the north-west, and the Humboldt Range on the left, though the peaks in these ranges grow smaller as we pass this place. Oreana is the railroad and business point for the following mining districts : in the Antelope Range is the Trinity District, seven miles away, ore princi- pally milling. The Governor Booth Mine has the most development thus far, though other prospects are said to be looking well. Some of the ore found in this district is claimed to be very rich. Adjoining this is the Arabia Dis- trict, five miles from the station ; it has smelt- ing Ore. Three miles from the mine and two miles from the station, on the Humboldt River, which has been dammed at this point, are the smelting furnaces, where the ore is reduced to base bullion. There is also a small stamp mill at this point. The principal mines thus far developed in this district are the Vanderbilt, Montezuma and Hurricane, and the ore is said to average 33 per cent, metal, lead, antimony and silver. South of the railroad first comes the Sacrament District, seven miles away. It has milling ore but the prospects are not yet devel- oped. Spring Valley District is next, 12 miles distant. The ore is gold and silver, and the Eagle Mine has a fifteen-stamp mill in operation reducing the ore. Relief District follows, 16 miles from Oreana. It has milling ore and a five- stamp mill. At the south end of this district, is a very superior mine of antimony, the ores of which are brought to this station and shipped to San Francisco. Bolivia District is 40 miles away, and abounds in copper ore. Tidal Wave is the name of the principal mine ; Kellogg's Mine is next in importance. Conveyances to these mining districts can be obtained at Oreana. The region round about the station is occupied by stockmen, and large numbers of cattle and horses are grazing upon the extensive ranges in the vicinity. No traveler will be able to see what they live on, but stockmen claim that they relish the white sage which abounds here, and that they will grow fat upon it. The very air is heavily perfumed with sage. Leaving Oreana, we pass round a curve where the Humboldt River bends in toward the hills on our left, and soon cross the river which makes its way into Humboldt Lake. After crossing the river, the large growth of sage brush and greasewood shows that the soil in this vicinity is very rich and that, properly cultivated and well supplied with water, it will produce im- mense crops. Lovelock's, 341 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 3,977 feet. It is a side track station with a telegraph office, a store, post-office and a few adjoining buildings. The Humboldt River near here, spreads out over con- siderable territory a fact which renders irri- gation comparatively easy. It has also caused the formation of a large body of natural mead- ows, from which immense quantities of hay are cut and shipped to different points along the line of the road. It is also a fine grazing region and large herds of cattle are fattened here upon the rich native grasses and the white sage. There are three varieties of the sage brush to be found on the plains and on the deserts. The largest kind is used as fuel for the engines at several stamp mills ; white sage is considerably smaller and affords grazing for both cattle and sheep; the clover sage, still smaller, is not as plentiful as the former kinds, but is highly relished by sheep. Thus we have at last found the uses to which this shrub is applied. Even greasewood, when it first starts up in the spring, and before it hardens, is a favorite food with sheep and swine. There is quite a settlement of farmers near Lovelock's. The station itself is named after a gentleman who lives near it. and who is an old settler in this part of the country. Farms are being cleared of sage brush and greasewood, irrigating ditches are being dug, and the success which has hitherto attended the growing of barley and potatoes, induces quite a number to engage in the business, and a black, rich soil gives every promise of encouragement. Before the railroad came, the meadow or pasture lands here were renowned among the emigrants, par- ties of whom recruited their stock after the wearisome journey across the plains. Upon the Humboldt meadows are now grazing nearly 400,000 head of cattle. After leaving Rye Patch, the Humboldt Mountains on our left dwindle considerably, and are neither ragged nor formidable after reaching th'm place. The same is likewise true of tdt> 213 Trinity Range on our right. They are low, barren, tinged with reddish brown; the evi- dences of volcanic action become more apparent as we pass, and the broken lava of the desert, the cinders and scorice, visible in places, speak of the time when the mountain ranges near here, were" seething volcanoes and vomited forth smoke, flames, fire and lava with great profu- sion. Passing Lovelock's we soon arrive at a point, where a glimpse can be obtained of the waters of Humboldt Lake, just under the mount- ain ridge on our left. We have also passed by the richer soil that surrounds the last station, and entered upon the barren desert again. Granite JPoiitt, 332 miles from. San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 3,918 feet. Approach- ing the sink in this great basin, it will be seen that our elevation is decreasing, but this will only last for a short distance, and then it will be up hill again. On the right of the station, which is merely a side track, there is a ragged, broken mountain, which uadoubtedly gives the place its name. It is the only thing curious or interesting to be seen from the cars. As we leave this place the lake comes into full view a beau- tiful sheet of water with white, salty incrusta- tions all around it, like a cloud fringed with a silver border. The waters on the shore nearest the road, are said to be far more brackish and saline in character than those on the farther side. The channel through the lake is on that side, and probably the cause of the difference. The lake abounds in fish but they are mostly in the fresh' water channel, and at the proper season it is a great resort for pelicans, wild geese and ducks. We approach nearer the shore as we pass to Brown's, 325 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 3,929 feet. It is a coaling station, and engines sometimes take water from the tank, pumped from the lake, though it is poor stuff to make steam with. Above the nearer range of mountains, just across the lake, can be seen the tops of a farther and higher range in the distance. This higher range runs south of the Humboldt and Carson Sink, and looms into view as the nearer range gives way. Humboldt Lake was not as large formerly as now, in fact it was a simple widening of the river as it entered the gateway of the sink be- low. At the foot of the lake a ridge of land ex- tends nearly across the valley, and there was some- thing of a gorge through which the outlet passed. The opportunity to build a dam was thus improved, and what was formerly a little widen- ing in the river, has now become a lake about 35 miles long and from 16 to 18 miles wide in the widest places. It is filled with islands caused by this rise, and the head or volume of water thus accumulated serves to run a stamp mill, located a few miles below the station and under a reddish bluff across the valley. Ore for this mill has been found in the mountains near it, and some is brought from the range on the north. You will notice an island nearly op- posite the station, and may be interested to know that it was part of the main land before the dam was built. The mountains on each side of the track, now become high hills though, occa- sionally, a ragged peak is seen, to relieve the monotony of the journey. We pass over the ridge of land before spoken of, and fairly enter upoii what is the beginning of the Humboldt and Larson Sink. We pass down on the low alktui flats which are whitened with salt, and wl..ich extend for miles as far as the eye can reach, off to our left. White Plains, 313 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 3,894 feet the lowest point we reach in this great basin. The place a side track, is appropriately named for it is surrounded by a white alkali desert, covered in places with salt ,and alkali deposits. The evidences of volcanic action and a lava formation are everywhere visible in the hills and on the plains in this vicinity. Though the plains immediately adjoining the station are white with alkali or salty deposits, yet the ridge and uplands to the right are covered with the reddish, porous rocks and finer blackish sand which always ac- company this formation. At White Plains we have reached the lowest elevation on the Central Pacific, east of the Sierras. We are, in fact, almost in the sink itself of the Humboldt and Carson Rivers. The low flats stretching away to our left, are usually more or less covered with water in the season of floods, and the two rivers virtually unite in this great valley or basin. There is no visible outlet to these streams, or rather to this basin, and the immense drainage of these two rivers sinks in the sand and is taken up by evaporation. The oldest settlers in this region of country, hold to the opinion that the water is taken up by evaporation, and say that at certain seasons of the year this process is very rapid large bodies of land covered with water becoming thoroughly dry in a few days. Leaving White Plains, we again begin to go up a grade. We have to cross a divide between White Plains and the Hot Spring Valley. This divide is reached at Miraf/e, 305 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,247 feet. It is simply a side track with no habitation near it but a section- house and is near the summit of the divide. This place, like many others, is named from some peculiarity of location or from some character- istic of the country. The wonderful optical de- lusions that are apparently seen here, have given it a suggestive name. When the conditions of the atmosphere are favorable, wonderful visions of lakes, mountains, trees, rivers, etc., can be seen. It is reported that many a weary emigrant in the days of old, was deceived by the optical illusions 214 F0&&ISF. that here seemed so real, and wondered why he did not reach the cooling lakes and spreading shade that seemed so near and was yet so far away. The heat of summer during the day time on these plains is almost intolerable. The dust, sometimes blowing in clouds, is suffo- cating, and long distances add to the incon- venience of wagon travel, without water. But overland travelers on the trains have more comforts. No matter how oppressive the day, yet the moment the sun is set, a lovely cool breeze comes from the mountains, the air be- comes fresh, and sleep is delightful. The heat and dust of the day is soon forgotten in the comforts of the pure, cool night at- mosphere. Crossing a low divide, the end of the Antelope Range we reach Hot Springs, 346 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,072 feet. This is a tel- egraph station with side track, section-houses, etc. Great efforts have been made here to sink arte- sian wells in order to obtain fresh water for the use of the road. First a depth of 800 feet was reached, then 1,000 feet, and lastly 1,300 feet, but all without success. In some portions of work very rapid progress would be made 95 feet having been made in one day then some Wd, flinty rock would be struck, and progress _,i : less than one foot per dav would be the result. '4"he project had to be abandoned at last. The station is in the midst of a desert, and is darned from the Hot Springs, whose rising steam can readily be seen about half a mile from the track on the left. There are quite a number of them boiling hot. They formerly extended along the base of the hill, still farther to the left, and nearer the track, but while they seem to have dried up in one locality, they have broken out in another. These springs are now owned by a German company, who have a dwelling- house, and works for producing borax, erected near by. They were badly " sold " by sharpers who induced them to believe that borax, in large quantities, could be obtained here. They sent out an expert who was induced to make a favorable report to the effect that there were inexhaustible quantities of the mineral to be found near here. As a consequence, they in- vested large sums of money in the purchase of the mines and in the erection of works. We believe some 60 boxes of the manufactured arti- cle was all that was ever turned out, and then the mine suddenly gave out, the production ceased, of course, and the company, after an ex- penditure estimated at about a quarter million of dollars, ceased operations, their property re- maining idle. These springs are said to be a sovereign remedy for rheumatism and kin- dred diseases, and the property may yet be utilized as an infirmary or watering-place for invalids. The steam from these springs can ba seen tor quite a distance in the cool mornings of the winter, and in the spring and fall months. Looking off to the right, as far as the eye can reach, almost, is a valley com- ing in from the north-east a dreary waste of sage brush and alkali, which extends across the track, over low hills, to the sink of the Carson. We move out through a gap in the hills, and in about two miles come to the salt works. Build- ings have been erected, side track put in, and large platforms built where the salt is stored pre- paratory to shipping. The whole face of the country, in this vicinity, is nearly white, the saline water rising to the surface and evaporating, leaves the white incrustations to glisten in the sun. The salt obtained here is produced by solar evapora- tion, and is said to be nearly 99 per cent. pure. Formerly vats were tried, but they were found to be useless and unnecessary. Vats are now dug in the ground and the salt water pumped into them. It soon evaporates, and after a sufficient quantity has accumulated, it is shoveled out, drawn to the station, ground and sacked, when it is ready for the market. We are now passing over one of the most uninviting portions of the desert. The range of mountains directly in front are those through which the Truckee River comes, and the valley, both north and south, extends beyond our vision. Away off to the left we can see the mountains south of the Carson Sink and River. The aspect of the desert becomes more dreary as we approach Desert, 287 miles from San Francisco ; ele- vation, 4,018 feet. It is only a side track, rightly named, and passenger trains seldom stop. The winds that sweep the barren plains here heap the- sand around the scattering sage brush like hup.* potato hills. Now we turn toward the right approaching the base of the adjoining hills, while boulders of lava, large and small, greet the eye. The hill on our right, dwindles into the plain ; we round it, toward the right, and arrive at Two-Mile, 281 miles from San Francisco ; elevation,4,156 feet. The gap, in the mountain range in front, now opens and we see where the Truckee River comes tumbling down. The valley extends, on the right, till it is lost in Pyra- mid Lake. We pass rapidly on, and in a short distance pitch down a steep grade into the valley of the Truckee, where green grass, green trees and flowing water, God's best gift to man, again greet our vision. Wadsworth, 279 miles from San Fran- cisco; elevation, 4,077 feet. It is a little vil- lage of about 400 inhabitants, nestled down in the valley of the Truckee and overshadowed by the range of mountains beyond. The railroad has a twenty-stall roundhouse, 65 feet deep, with over 500 feet of circular length. The machine shop has six working stalls where engines are repaired, and is 75 by 130 feet. Engines are here entirely rebuilt. At one end of this shop a *V' p ce of ground ha*" been fenced in, a fountain 215 erected, trees planted, and alfalfa and blue-grass sown. It affords a refreshing sight to the me- chanics here employed, and strangely contrasts with the barren desert surrounding the place. The engines used on that part of the division between Winnemucca and this place, have very large tenders, the tanks in them holding 3,800 gallons of water. They run 70 miles without taking water on the line of the road. Other shops for the convenience of the road are located near by. The huge water tank in which water is stored for use of shops and engines, has a capacity of 60,000 gallons. Hydrants have been erected, connected with it by pipes, and hose supplied by which the water may be quickly applied in case of fire, to any part of the buildings. The road passes from Wadsworth to Sacramento through a mountainous region of country, where there is plenty of timber and, hence, wood is used for fuel on the engines between these two places. Between Ogden and this place coal taken from the mines north of Evanston, on the Union Pacific Road, is used. West of Sacramento, coal from Oregon and Washington Territory is used. Between Wadsworth and Truckee some trouble has been experienced with snow, and in some places huge boulders, which rolled down with the snow, have been knocked out of the way by the snowplows. In addition to the machine shops, there are a large freight building and other offices for the convenience of the company. The town has several large stores, hotels, saloons, with China houses ad libitum, and is altogether a place of considerable trade. Huge freight wagons, from two to four attached together, are here loaded with freight for the mining districts south. These large wagons, with their teams attached, are quite a curiosity to Eastern travelers, and fully illus- trate how Western men do their freighting. The following mining districts did business at this station until the extension of the Carson and Colorado Railroad from the Mound House, south, to wit: Columbus, borax mines, 130 miles dis- tant; Teal's Marsh, borax mines, 140 miles away; the Pacific Borax Works are 20 miles southeast of Columbus still; the Bellville Min- ing District, 140 miles distant. In this district the celebrated Northern Bell Silver Mine is located, also the General Thomas and others less prominent. Silver Peak Mining District is 110 miles distant. These districts, and others not named here, are all south of Wadsworth, and from this point 1,272,380 pounds of crude borax were shipped in 1880. Rhodes' Salt Marsh, an immense salt deposit, is about 130 miles distant. There is salt enough in this de- posit to preserve the world, if reports as to its extent, etc. , prove true. From Wadsworth to Carson Lake, south, the distance is about 40 miles. This lake is named from the river of the same name, which flows into, or rather through it. Directly south of Carson Lake is Walker Lake, into which flows Walker River. The lake last named has no visible outlet, and is one of the sinks of the great basin east of the Sierras. South of the railroad, there are three bodies of water which travelers will more fully understand by an ex- planation. Humboldt Lake proper, into which, flows the Humboldt River, we pass at Brown's Station. A little southwest of this lake is the Humboldt and Carson Sink the waters from the lake creeping through a channel or slough into the sink. The dam at the foot of the lake is across this outlet or slough. The waters from Carson Lake, flowing nearly east, find their way into this sink through a similar out- let. Thus the waters of the two rivers, the Humboldt and Carson, each flowing through, a small lake, finally meet in the same sink. To this sink there is no visible outlet, and the vast amount of water which is poured into this basin through these two rivers is undoubtedly taken up on its way, or after its arrival in this common sink, by evaporation. The Humboldt River, though it has a length of 500 miles, and has several tributaries con- stantly flowing into it, yet does not increase in volume throughout its length, as do most rivers. After passing Winnemucca it dimin- ishes to a small stream, finally spreads into a marsh and " sinks " out of sight. North of Wadsworth, about 21 miles, is Pyr- amid Lake, and east of it, separated by Lake Range of Mountains, which can plainly be seen from Wadsworth, is Winnemucca Lake, 26 miles distant. Both of them are sinks, and have no visible outlet. Both, of them receive the waters of Truckee River, and the latter is said to be rising being several feet higher now than it was ten years ago. Curiosities of Pyramid Lake In 1867 a surveying party visited this lake, which they found to be 12 miles long and 30 miles wide. The lake takes its name from a remarkable rock formation, a pyramid which towers above the lake to a height of more than 500 feet, and pre- sents in its outlines the most perfect form. Upon visiting this pyramid, the party found it occupied with tenants who were capable of holding their ground against all intruders. From every crevice there seemed to come a hiss. The rattling, too, was sharp and long-continued. The whole rock was alive with rattlesnakes. Even in the party those who had been champion snake exterminators, and had demolished them on all previous occasions, now found the combat beyond their power to carry on, and abandoned the island with all hope of victory. The water of Pyramid Lake is clear, sparkling. In it are said to be fish, principally among which is the couier, very sprightly, with flesh the color of salmon. The weight of the fish ranges from 216 three to twenty pounds. There is also said to be an abundance of trout. Winnemucca Lake is also stated to be some 200 feet lower than Pyramid Lake, its basin being on the east side of Lake Range of Moun- tains. The Truckee River and these two lakes are great resorts for ducks, geese and pelicans. The latter abound here in large numbers in the spring. An island in Pyramid Lake is a great ^resort for them, and there, undisturbed, they rear their young. These birds are very destruc- tive to the fish of the river and lake. They will because unable to get out of the way. A man with a club could kill thousands of them in a day without much difficulty. ^ North of Pyramid Lake is Mud Lake, another sink of this great basin, and a little northeast of Winnemucca Lake is the sink of Quin's River and other streams. In fact, they lose their identity in flowing across the desert are swal- lowed up by the thirsty sands. On the north, Pyramid Lake Mining District- is fifteen miles away. This is a new district, and said to contain good "prospects." Mu 1 PYRAMID LAKE. stand in the shallow water of the entrance to the lake for hours, and scoop up any unwary fish that may happen to pass within their reach. They are apparently harmless, and of no earthly use whatever. The huge sacks on their under jaws are used to carry food and water to their young. These waddle around before they fly a shapeless, uncouth mass, and easily destroyed Lake District, similar in character, is seventy- five miles due north from Wadsworth. Black Butte District, on the east side of Winnemucca Lake, is aboiit twenty-eight miles distant. The Piute reservation, or rather one of them, begins about seven miles north of the town. The reservation house, which is supposed to bo the place where the government officers reside, is SCENES ON THE TRUCKEE RIVER. BY THOMAS MORAH. l._Truckee Meadow*. Sierras in the distance. 2 Pleasant Vnlley. 3.-TrunKnn Kivi-r ne;ir Siai^ Lino. 218 16 miles away. There is another reservation for these Indians south, on Walker River. They have some very good land near the lake, and some of them cultivate the soil, raising good crops. There is considerable good bottom-land on the Truckee River, between Wadsworth and Pyra- mid Lake. That which is not included in the Indian reservation is occupied by stockmen and farmers, much of it being cultivated and pro- ducing excellent crops of cereals and vegetables. The experiments thus far tried in fruit growing have been successful, and in a few years there will be a home supply of fruit equal to home demand. The arrival at Wadsworth is a great relief to the tourist weary with the dull, unchanging monotony of the plains, the desert and bleak desolation which he has passed. The scenes are now to change and another miniature world is to open upon his view. There is to be variety beauty, grandeur and sublimity. If he enters this place at night, the following day will reveal to him the green fields and magnifi- cent landscapes of California, and in less than 24 hours, he will be able to feast his greedy eyes upon a glowing sunset on the Pacific Coast. Leaving Wadsworth we cross the Truckee River and gaze with delight upon the trees, the green meadows, the comfortable farm-house, and well-tilled fields of the ranche on our left, just across the bridge. Like everything else lovely in this world, it soon fades from our vision, us we rapidly pass into the Truckee Canon. The mountains now come down on either side as though they would shake hands across the silver torrent that divides them. The valley narrows as if to hasten their cordial grasp, and to remove all obstacles in their way. Now it widens a little as though it was not exactly certain whether these mountains should come together or not, and wanted to consider the matter. But leaving this question to the more practical thoughts of our readers, we hasten on, winding around promontories and in and out of " draws " and ravines, through rocky cuts, and over high embankments with the river rolling and tumbling almost beneath our feet, and the ragged peaks towering high above us, passing Salvia, a simple side track, six miles from Wadsworth. Now we have something to occupy our attention ; there are new scenes passing by at every length of the car, and we have to look sharp and quick, or many of them will be lost forever. Soon we make a short turn to the right, and what the railroad men call " Red Rock " ap- pears in front, then to our right, and finally over our heads. It is a huge mountain of lava that has, sometime, in the ages of the past, been vomited from the crater of some volcano now extinct ; or it may have been thrown up by some mighty convulsion of nature that fairly shook the rock-ribbed earth till it trembled like an as- pen leaf, and in which these huge mountain piles were thrown into their present position. Pres- ently, amidst the grandeur of these mountains, a lovely valley bursts upon our view. We have arrived at the little meadows of the Truckee, at a station called Clark's, 264 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,263 feet. This station is named from a former proprietor of the ranche here. It is a beautiful place with mountains all around it, and the only way you can see out, is to look up toward the heavens. The narrow bottom on either side of the river is fenced in, producing excellent crops of vegetables and hay, and afford- ing excellent grazing for the stock that is kept here. As we arrive at this station, we pass through a cut of sand which seems just ready to become stratified, and which holds itself up in layers, in the sides of the cut. Occasionally, as we look over the nearer peaks in front, we can catch a glimpse of the snow-crowned Sierras in the distance. Now a creek comes in from a canon on our left, and through this canon is a wagon road to Virginia City, and now a butte is passed between us and the river the river being on our left since we crossed it at Wadsworth. There are a few ranches scattered along its banks where vegetables for the 10,000 miners at Virginia City are grown. The mountains we have passed are full of variegated streaks of clay or mineral, some white, some red, some yellow, and some pale green. You will notice them as you pass Vista, 252 miles from San Francisco; ele- vation, 4,403 feet. We are going up hill again. At this station we arrive at the Truckee Mead- ows. It is like an immense amphitheatre, and the traveler rejoices again in the presence of farm-houses and cultivated fields in the scene of beauty that spreads out before him. Beyond the level plain, we see in front of us Peavine Mountain and at the base of the hills to the farther side of the valley, lies Reno. To our lef fr Mt. Rose lifts its snow-covered head ; to the left of Mt. Rose is Slide Mountain. Carious Names Given Ity Miners. Placerville was, in 1849, called Hangtown because it was the first place where any person was hanged by lynch-law. Tin Cup was so named, because the first miners there found the place so rich that they measured their gold in pint tin cups. Pine Log is so named because there was once a pine log across the South Fork of the Stanis- laus River in such a position as to offer a very convenient crossing to miners. The following are among the other oddities which have, through miners' freaks and fancies, been used to denote settlements and camps and diggings, small or large: Jim Crow Canon, Gridiron Bar. 219 Red Dog, Jackass Gulch, Ladies' Canon, Miller's Defeat, Loafer Hill, Rattlesnake Bar, Whisky Bar, Poverty Hill, Greasers' Camp, Christian Flat, Rough and Ready, Ragtown, Sugar-Loaf Hill, Paper Flat, Wild-Cat Bar, Dead Mule Canon, Wild Goose Flat, Brandy Flat, Yankee Doodle, Horsetown, Petticoat Slide, Chucklehead Diggings, Pike Hill, Plug Head Gulch, Port Wine, Ground Hog's Glory, Bogus Thunder, Last Chance, Greenhorn Canon, Shanghai Hill, Shirt-Tail Canon, Skunk Gulch, Coon Hollow, Poor Man's Creek, Humbug Canon, Quack Hill, Nigger Hill, Piety Hill, Brandy Gulch, Love-Letter Camp, Blue Belly Ravine, Shinbone Peak, Loafer's Retreat, ^wellhead Diggings, Poodletown, Gold Hill, Centipede Hollow, Seven-by-Nine Valley, Gospel Swamp, Reno is 293 miles from San Francisco, situ- ated in the Truckee Meadows, the junction of the Virginia and Truckee Railroad, the bsst point of departure for tourists going west to visit Lake Tahoe. The Meadows, about fifteen miles long and eight wide, are naturally cov- ered with sage brush. The numerous boulders which also strew the meadows, are built into fences, and alfalfa seed sown after digging out the sage brush, and rich pasturage results, on which sheep thrive. Eight or ten tons to the acre are cut in a single season, and farms make handsome returns. The boulders are most numerous along the river. Reno has an altitude of 4,507 feet, and although a railroad town only Hen-Roost Camp, Lousy Ravine, Lazy Man's Canon, Logtown, Git-U-p-and-Git, Gopher Flat, Bob Ridley Flat, One Eye, Push Coach Hill, Puppytown, Mad Canon, Happy Valley, Hell's Delight, Devil's Basin, Dead Wood, Gouge Eye, Puke Ravine, Slap-Jack Bar, Bloomer Hill, Grizzly Flat, Rat-Trap Slide, Snow Point, Narv Red, Gas'Hill, Ladies' Valley, Graveyard Canon, Gospel Gulch, Chicken Thief Flat, Hungry Camp, Mud Springs, Skinflint, Pepper-Box Flat, Seventy-Six, Hog's Diggings, Liberty Hill, Paradise, Sluice Fork, Seven Up Ravine, Humpback Slide, Coyote Hill, American Hollow, Pancake Raviiu-, Nutcake Camp, Paint Pot Hill. a few years old, is destined to be the prominent city of the State. It was named in honor of the fallen hero of South Mountain has now 2,600 people, and is a county-seat with a $30,000 court-house, and is the gate to the West for all the State, and distributing point for a large portion of it. It has outrun Truckee in com- peting for the trade of California, east of the Sierras and among the beautiful and fertile valleys north of the railroad, for, from Novem- ber to May Truckee is shut in by deep snows, and its roads have steeper grades. Sierra Valley, the Honey Lake Region, Long Valley, Camp Bidwell and Goose Lake Region, Surprise Valley, Indian Valley, Winnemucca Valley, the Pitt River Country, Fort Warner and Southeastern Oregon, all derive their sup- plies, wholly or in part, on wagons from this point. It is the healthiest place in the State and has the most stable population, being sur- rounded with an agricultural region. It has five churches, Congregational, Metho- dist, Episcopal, Baptist and Catholic, and a Young Ladies' Seminary under the care of Bishop Whitaker, of the Protestant Episcopal Church. This is the most extensive and suc- cessful school of the kind in the State. The cost of the enterprise was $20,000, of which Miss Wolfe, of New York City, gave half. Nevada, by a State law, set apart one-fourth of one per cent, of her tax for a building fund, out of which the Capitol was erected at Carson City. About $100,000, since accumulated, has been spent on a State prison, the completion of which is yet in the future. The massive walls, about 400 feet square, have been standing for several years. Here are the grounds of the State Agricultu- ral Society, and the finest speed-track in the State, two banks, two newspapers the Nevada State Journal, daily and weekly, and the Weekly Plaindealer and several factories, a steam fire department and a public library. The benevolent orders are well represented, the Masons and Odd Fellows meeting in halls of their own, There are two hotels, the Railroad House, which is well kept, and the Lake House, on the bank of the Truckee River, a most de sirable place for a few days' stay. One daily stage leaves for Susanville, -via Long Valley, in the California portion of the Sierra Nevadas, and another for Fort Bidwell and Surprise Val- ley, -via Pyramid Lake. The Pea Vine District is nine miles north- west, and about 1,500 feet above Reno, in which r-re valuable mines of dark sulphuret ore the basest work on the coast, and worked success- fully only of late by the O'Hara process. The Nevada and Oregon Railroad Company have organized to build a narrow gauge (3 feet) road from a point at or near Aurora, Esmeralda County, Nev., to^a, point at or near Goose Loko WINTKK FOREST SCENE IN THE SIERRA NEVADAS. Y THOMAS 221 in Oregon, and have commenced building from Reno in the direction of Oregon. This road will run through a part of Long Valley, and take the freight that is now carried on wagons to Northeastern California and Southern Oregon. George L. Woods is President; George A. King, Vice-President, and S. C. Scoville, Sec- retary. The general offices are all at Reno. VIRGINIA AND TRUCKEE R. R. D. O. MmiiS, President - - San Francisco. H. M. YERRINGTON, V.-Pr. &G. Supt. Carson. W. M. THORNTON, Secretary - - Carson. D. A. BENDEB, Gen. Fr. & Pas. Agt. - Carson. Leaving Reno, the Red Mountain District is seen on the east, and the AVashoe Range with Mount Rose, 8,200 feet high, on the west, and soon the cars pass a flume, 15 miles long, owned by Flood & O'Brien, running through a long canon to Evans Creek to convey lumber to the railroad. Huffaker's is six and one-half miles from Reno, the terminus of the Pacific Wood, Lumber and Flume Company's flume. The next stopping point is called Brown's, and is the terminus of the Eldo- rado Flume, owned by the Virginia & Truckee Railroad Company. This flume starts in White's Canon, and is about six miles long. The first important station is Steamboat Springs, 11 miles south of Reno. They consist of many springs in two dis- tinct groups, those of each group apparently con- nected with each other. Their escaping steam may be seen near the station on the rise to the right of the road, and the fissures, through which the water of 212 Fahrenheit gurgles up, vary from a narrow crack to a foot in width. For- merly they were more active than now, yet at times they spout the water to a height of ten feet. Sulphur abounds in the water, and remarkable cures of rheumatism and cutaneous diseases have been effected, but no reliable analysis of the water has been made. The hotel is a popular resort, kept in first- class style with accommodations for fifty guests. Steamboat Springs are fast becoming famous for mines of cinnabar and sulphur, of both of which this region seems to be full. Much of the sulphur is pure and beautifully crystallized. Cin- nabar is found between strata of lava. The railroad crosses Steamboat Creek, the out- let for Washoe Lake, and then enters Steamboat Valley, which contains about 6,000 acres of good soil with some natural meadow at the upper end. South of Steamboat Valley is Washoe Valley, which is entered by passing through a narrow gorge with large conglomerate rocks, weather- beaten into castellated form. Emerging from the canon, one is in Washoe City, 5 3-4 miles from Steamboat ; it has a few dilapidated houses. Mount Rose, over 8,000 feet high, eternally snow-capped, is directly opposite the lower end of the valley. On the left of the track may be seen the ruins of the old Ophir Mill whose Superintendent was honored with a salary of $30,000 per an- num and a furnished house, 'while the mill employed 165 men. On the left, at the foot of the mountains overlooking the beautiful lake and valley, is Bower's Mansion the favorite resort for picnics from Carson and Virginia City. Franktown i% miles from Washoe, is an old Mormon colony, the terminus of another flume, and was the first place settled in this reg- ularly formed and picturesque valley, twelve miles long by seven wide. The long promonto- ries from the mountain side are denuded of timber, but numerous ice-cold crystal streams come down from the mountain side, and the valley produces considerable grain and fruit, and supports no little stock. Mill Station 3 miles from Franktown, is an old mill site at the upper end of the valley, from which Washoe Lake, ten miles long and six wide, may be clearly seen. Here is the end of still another flume for lumber and wood; next is Eagle Valley, reached by a short tunneL At the divide between Washoe and Eagle Valleys, the railroad crosses the Water Syphon, which conducts the pure water from the west side of the Sierras through this great depression toward Virginia City, Gold Hill and Silver City. One million one hundred and fifty thousand pounds of rolled iron are found in nearly seven miles of pipe. Each joint of pipe, twenty-six feet long, when at a temperature of 380 degrees Fahrenheit, was dipped into asphaltum and coal tar. A million rivets and 52,000 pounds lead were used in constructing the syphon. The water is taken from Dall's Creek, in an 18- inch flume, four miles long, then received by the iron pipe at a point 2,100 feet above the railroad. It ascends on the east side 1,540 feet, and is discharged into a flume that conducts it to the reservoir above the cities in which it is used. Through the 12-inch orifice of the pipe, 2,000,000 gallons can pass daily. The whole cost was $750,000, and the enterprise is an achievement of which the whole State is proud. Lake View 2 miles from Mill Station, commanding the finest view of Washoe Lake, the railroad crosses the large water pipe which supplies Virginia City from a lake on the west- ern summit of the Sierras, above Lake Tahoe. Washoe and Eagle Valleys almost join, and on entering the latter, Carson City and the State Capitol are seen below. Carson City is 21 miles from Virginia City. It was settled in 1858, by Major Ornsby and others, has a population of 4,000, is regu- larly laid out, the streets coinciding with the 222 Cardinal points of tne oompass. Shade trees. "he U. S. Mint, the Capitol, Court-house, aa* -ome neat private residences, four churches (Presbyterian, Methodist, Episcopalian and Cath- olic), the best school-house in the State, and good society, make it one of the most desirable places for residence in Nevada. It has two daily papers, ihs Appeal and Tribune. It is the center of a arge trade for all parts of South-western Nevada and Mono and Inyo Counties of California. It has three good hotels, the general offices and workshops of the Virginia & Truckee Railroad. The railroad from Carson Cily to Virginia Oity, is often spoken of as the Crooked Railroad, full is it of curves and windings. There are many curves on it of 14, and one of 19, and on one portion of it for 16 miles, there is a contin- uous grade of 90 feet to the mile. This is believed to be the road of wbicik it is said that an en- gineer, badly frightened vit the approach of a led light, jumped from his engine and soon saw that he had been scared by the rear end of his own train. It is fifty-one and three-quarter miles long, and has 35 miles of side track. Forty to fifty trains daily pass over it, and it is probably the best paying railroad in the country. Stages leave Carson for points in Southern Kevada and into California as follows : To Monitor, 46 miles ; Silver Mountain, 54 miles j Bishop's Creek, 192 miles ; Benton, 150 miles | Sweetwater, 73 miles ; A urora, 105 miles ; Bodie, 119 miles ; Marietle, 145 miles ; Belleville, 155 miles; Candelaria, 165 miles; Columbus, 173 miles ; Silver Peak, 228 miles ; Independence, 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 252 miles ; Cerro Gordo, 274 miles. The usual fare is 15 cents per mile. For Lake Tahoe, Benton stage line runs to Glen- brook, and there connects with steamer across lake, and stages thence to Truckee .nd Summit. The Sutro Tunnel, one of the mining wonders OS Nevada, commences on the Carson River, not far distant, and bores into the mountains a passage fourteen feet wide and ten feet high. The main tunnel is completed 20,000 feet, rsaching directly to the mines at Virginia City, and affording not only a perfect outlet for the water of the mines, but giving excellent ventila- tion and a cheap way of removing the ore. Probably the greatest venture in risks of any enterprise in the world, just opened for use. Several stations beyond Carson attract atten- tion, principally because of quartz mills con- nected. Lookout, 2% miles; Umpire, \} miles; at Morgan is the Morgan Mill; at Brunswick and Merrimack are others. The road ascends above the river gradually, and just beyond Eureka is seen the first view of Mouut Davidson. Mound House is 1 ^ miles from the Eureke Dump. Along here the road is without curves tor a few hundred feet a long distance for such p. crooked road as this. Mound House is the J motion of this railroad with the COLORADO 11. R. Tie officers of this are one same as those of c&e "Virginia and Trucke^ ..-toad. The line is a 3-foot narrow-gauge, laid with steel rails and redwood ties, and equipped with first-class rolling stock. The route ie lonely, yet interest- ing. It descends to the Carson Kiver, crossing at Dayton, a small town six miles from the Mcund House, the location of several ore-re- election works, and tnree miles from the mouth c:c the great Sutro Tunnel. From Dayton the lire follows the Carson River to Churchill Canon, and then follows Mason Valley, through ^I'JLicL Walker River flows; in which valley, at fae time of undertaking the road, a few widely scattered ranches were ihe only signs of civil- ization for 150 miles. Excepting this valley, which is for Nevada a large and productive farming district, the load was built through a howling wilderness c:? sage brush. The river is crossed twice. Old Fort Churchill stands like a lone sentinel, to awaken recollections of the army officers ari men who endured its isolation and hards" -i: . Walker River empties into Walker Lake, a truly magnificent sheet of water twenty-five miles long, and from five to nine miles wide. The sight of any body oi' watar is good in such a land as this, and espe- cially such a beautiful lake as this. It is usually as smooth as a mirror and as blue as the sky. It stands a lovely c ontrast with its barren sur- roundings of desolate plains and dusky moun- tains. Its waters ere, however, more beautiful to the eye than refreshing to the thirsty moiith for they are heavily impregnated with soda, and unfit to drink. The view of the lake on the left as the train passes along tlie south side the wliole distance of the lake is unobstruct- ed, because the cnly trees on its border are a clunro of willows at the lake. But the lake abounds with large trout. These are caught iu great quantities by the Indians. Hatrtlioriic 2> miles from the lake, Avaa born of the enterprise, and for some months was the terminus of the road, and an important stage station. Hawthorne is the depot of sup- plies for ATJKCRA, twenty -six, and BODIE, the famous mining camp in Mino Ceunty, Califor- nia, thirty-seven miles. Candelaria 50 miles from Hawthorne and 150 from the Mound House, is the present ter- minus, but the road is pushing southward to the Colorado River. Diverging stage lines of the United States Stage Company leave daily on arrival of the trains for Aurora, Bodie, Bellville, Columbus, Belmont, Silver Peak, Montezuma, Alida Val- ley, Gold Mountain (State Line Mines), Bentou, Bishop Creek and Independence. Gold Hill-. As the traveler approaches, ho ~eea evidencec of mining in every direction abandoned shafts, puffing engines, smoke issu- ing from gigantic sticks, huge mounds of earth dumped from the end of high trestle-work, the capacious buildings and the posts and stones that mark the undeveloped claims, or the loaded ore, need no explanation as to their origin or pur- pose. Gold Hill follows the ravine of the same name, and the street is both steep and crooked. It has a population of 6,000 and is, in all respects, like Virginia City. The two* are built up so as to be witnout marked separation. Gold Hill has a vigorous daily paper, the " Gold Hill News," a Catholic, thodist; and an Episcopal Church. a great credit to the city and the lana of si*, ver. Its narrow streets show with what diffi- culty sites are obtained for buildings, whether anchored to the rocks or perched in mid-air, and while in the city but little of it is visible at a time, the dwellings are mostly low, and, there- fore, unstable roofs do less damage when tha Washoe zephyrs blow. It appears small, but is the most densely packed of a'i American cities. One-third its people are underground, where lighted candles glimmer faintly in subterranean passages, by day and by night. Bedrooms do double duty for hundreds or thousands, whose work never ceases. Miners are shifted every eight- STREET SCENE IN VIRGINIA CITY, NEVADA. Virginia City and Gold Hill are connected by a Hue of omnibusses, making four trips every hour during the day, while the frequent trains of the railroad carry also many passengers. By rail the distance to Virginia City is two miles, in which several tunn jls are passed through. Virginia City is one of the most interesting towns on the coast. One expects streets of gold and silver, and finds dust or mud. On October 26, 1875, it was almost wholly destroyed by fire, but the burnt district has been rebuilt more handsomely than ever. Its population now exceeds 20,000. A first-class hotel, The In- ternational, has been erected, in all respects hours, and the men of two shifts may occupy th.8 same couch. On many levels, down 2,000 feet, are thousands of busy, bustling, narrow streets, over which ig the city proper. Tide-water is 6,205 feet below the banks, and perhaps it is best that it is no nearer, for now pumps are constructed to raise the water to the surface from 3,000 to 5,000 feet below, only seven of which are capable of raising 4,000 gallons every minute. Dwellings on the side-hill overlook one another! without any appearance of aristocratic preten-t sions, and steps and foot-ladders are continuallj at hand. 224 The streets present a busy appearance with men of all classes, and occasionally women, watch- ing the indicator of the San Francisco stock- market as anxiously as a gambler reduced to the " bed rock " watches for the playing of the hand against him. Saloons are numerous and crowded, and pro- fanity fearfully prevalent. It is a city of extremes in prices, speculations, character, activity, .enterprise, debauchery and home life. The rich and the penniless are side by side. Every notion and ism is advocated every nation represented by the worst and best of the race except the horrible Celestial, who is always called bad, but is even somewhat like " the Englishman of character and the English- man of no character to speak of." The lazy Indians that lounge about the street, rich with a loaf of bread, a blanket, a string of beads and some feathers, are no poorer than hundreds who will have nothing until they sober up, and at the other end are the owners of wealth incomprehen- sible by any system of counting all glittering and golden-hued in a vast firmament of riches, as great as the reality of idlest dreams. Here the world has seen, not one, but at least four, richer than Croesus ; with lamps, rings and slaves better than Aladdin's ; four Bonanza kings, each with a mountain of treasure greater to carry than the horrible Old Man of the Sea, but which no modern Sinbad would shake off with delight. One says, " The gods here worshiped are heathen deities, Mammon, Bacchus and Venus. The temples are brokers' offices, whisky shops, gambling hells and brothels. There is wonder- ful enterprise, much intelligence, some refine- ment, not a little courtesy, and a sea of sin." The view from the city is picturesque and sorrowfully beautiful. Off to the south and east the eye ranges over a waste of sage brush, and the face of the whole country appears like the waves of an angered sea, broken the more be- cause they can go no farther. The Carson River can be seen stretching off toward its sinking place in arid sands, and the twenty-six mile desert will deceive the unthink- ing, and add a faint lake-like look to the picture, of which the Walker and Sweetwater Ranges and endless mountains' rosy light and heaven's blue dome, all add their beauty. But to enjoy the best view, make the ascent of Mount Davidson, about 1,627 feet above the city, and nearly 8,000 feet high. One need not climb, but may ascend it on horseback by following up the ravine from Gold Canon. When he reaches what seems from the street to be the top of the mountain, he sees another summit as far beyond, but the latter gained the view is magnificent. Below, on the west, is a beautiful lake two or three miles in diameter, "glistening like the silver of the mountains which it covers." Reno, the Carson Valley, valleys, mountains, rivers, Jakes, and deserts may be een in every direction for a hundred miles. Or, if it is too fatiguing to ascend, whoever is the fortunate possessor of a note of introduction to some mining superintendent, may prepare fo\ a visit to the world below. Donning brogans, woolen socks and coarse flannels, he will step on the cage, holding his breath, his heart feeling gone, and as the wo^er drips around him down the shaft, his feeble lantern will net remove the queer sensation of the descent. Once below, there are cuts, and cross-cuts, drifts, winzes, stopes and a maze of strange words, sights and sounds. Here is explained the use of the squared timbers seen by the car load, passing from the Sierras to Virginia City. As worthless rock or treasured ore is removed, the excavation must be replaced almost as solid as the rock it- self. The huge timbers are mortised and fitted to each other with the utmost precision ; ladders lead from level to level. Cars convey the ore to the shaft, and up and down the busy cages are always going. Every minute a loaded car as- cends from a quarter of a mile below and is re- placed by another. The engineer tells by an indicator th.e precise location of the cage at any moment, and by varying the signals to him, he directs the movements for passengers with greatly decreased speed. If time permits, ride over to the Sutro Tunnel, six miles from Virginia City. It once promised well, may benefit the Comstock Lode more than its friends have ever dreamed, but from present appearances the real contest concerning it, was not in Congress, nor opposition from the mines it aims to tap, but has yet to come. As a specimen of engineering it will repay a visit. With indomitable energy it is pushed forward, and has now penetrated nearly three miles. The average progress is 90 feet per week, and tunneling was never done elsewhere, more speed- ily or successfully. Mines of Virginia City. The discovery of the Comstock Lode, was made in 1857, by men in pursuit of gold placers. They came upon some mineral new to them, which a Mex- ican recognized as silver ore. Comstock at an early day, was a middle-man in the purchase of an interest in the lode, and his name thus became attached to it. As explorations were made, very rich ore was found near the surface, and soon a great excitement was created, and vigorous oper- ations commenced, which were crowned with wonderful success. The Ophir Mine, and the Gould & Curry, at an early day began to pay dividends, and continued to do so without inter- ruption fur several years. The Savage and the Hale & Norcross were later in becoming known, and their period of prosperity continued after the others had gone into decline. These are all Virginia City Mines. The Kentuck. Crown Point, Yell^*" Jacket, Chollar Potosi 225 and Belcher, which have all paid dividends and others less widely known, are in Gold Hill. Neither of them became successful as early as the Ophir and Gould & Curry. The original, discoverers of these mines " located " them, as miners say, that is, posted upon the property a notice of claim in writing, of which they filed a copy with the recorder of the mining district. The regulations in reference to locating claims differed slightly in different districts. Usually not over 2,000 feet along the length of a vein could be located in one claim, and no one could claim over 200 feet except the discoverer, he be- ing usually allowed 300, and sometimes 400 feet. Under the present United States Mining Law no single claim for over 1,500 feet can be made, whatever number of persons join in it, and the discoverer is accorded no advantage over others. Feet in length along a vein, are always stated and understood to carry all its depth, spurs and angles, that is, its whole breadth and depth be they more or less, for the length claimed. Veins are usually only a few feet wide, but sometimes extend miles in length. The Comstock Lode has been traced for five miles, but its greatest breadth so far as yet known, is between 300 and 400 feet, and no other silver vein in the State of Nevada approaches it in breadth, and some are worked which do not exceed 6 inches. In early days dealings in mines were by feet, and not by shares. Tha Ophir Mine comprised 1,400 feet for instance, and was sold on the stock-board by the foot. An owner of 100 feet owned a four- teenth of the mine. Gradually the selling by feet was abandoned, and only shares were dealt in, and those have been divided up very small, in order to bring speculation within the compass of persons of small means. The Ophir Mine has been divided so that each original foot is repre- sented by seventy-two shares. The incorpora- tions of all the mining companies on the Com- stock Lode, and their offices have always been in San Francisco, and the men who live immedi- ately over and about the mine, cannot buy or sell stock in them except by letter or telegraph to " The Bay." In the development of this mineral lode, three distinct periods may be marked. For some time after its discovery, prosperity continually at- tended operations on it somewhere along its length, and often at all points. All the mines named above paid dividends, and very few assess- ments were made. The ore lying within 800 or 900 feet of the surface was finally exhausted along the whole vein, and dividends fell off, assessments became frequent, and great depres- sion followed. This continued uufcil patient exploration revealed, several hundred feet aeeper, a rich ore body, in the Crown Point and Belcher Mines, which produced an amount of bullion hitherto unexampled in the history of the vein, dividends amounting to a million a month com- ing several months in succession. This body it ore was worked out in time, and depression fol- lowed again. The total yield of all Hie mines of Nevada for the last six .years has been $176.734,150. The Big Bonanza Mines.- _rn the days of their greatness, the Consolidated Virginia and the California divided each $1,030,000 monthly for many months. During 1875, and the first three months of- 1876, the bullion receipts of the Consolidated, Virginia company were twenty-four million eight hw^ di-ed and fifty thousand, Jive hundred and twenty four dollars and eighty-four cents, ($24,850,- 524.84). In March, 1876, were worked 24,991,800-2,000 tons of ore, which produced' $3,634,218.92. The total yield of the two mines Virginia and California has exceeded Jifty million dol- lars. The bullion from this mine and others on the Comstock Lode is very pure, and on an average is about .045 fine in gold, and .950 in silver, leav- ing only about .005 of base metal. The propor- tion of gold to silver varies, and with it the value of the bullion per pound. A shipment, which represented a fair average, was of 50 bare of $186,998 stamped value, and weighing 5,741 Ibs. avoirdupois, thus representing a value of $32.57 per Ib. Had this been pure silver, it would have been stamped $18.81 per Ib., and the excess above that, is for the gold in the bullion. It may surprise one to be told that silver bullion, carrying so large a portion of gold, shows no trace of it. A bar of gold and silver, in equal proportions, would scarcely differ in color from a pure silver bar. Its weight would, however, re- veal the presence of the gold, at once. When six or seven-tenths are gold, its color begins to show. The valuable product obtained from the ore was over seventy-two per cent, of its assay value during the month reported above. It is not usual to obtain a better result than this without roasting the ore before amalgamation. It will interest one, not familiar with mining, to notice how small in both bulk and weight the bullion product is when compared with the amount of ore handled. During the month referred to, four hundred and forty-six tons of ore, which would make a mass 10 feet high, 20 feet wide and 30 feet long, yielded only one ton of bullion, which could be melted into a solid cube 18 3-5 inches on a side, or 1,560 cubic feet of ore were worked to obtain one cubic foot of bullion. Reduction of the Ores. The ores at this place are worked without roasting by Lhe pan process of American origin, first adopted on the Comstock Lode. It is suited admirably to ores which work kindly, requiring little chemical action or heat to make them part with their precious contents, to be taken up by amalgama- tion with quicksilver. Though it rarely yields as close a result as the Mexican patio process, or the furnace and barrel process of Freiberg, it is so much more expeditious and economical of labor, and so capable of being applied on a large scale, that, on the whole, it is unquestion- ably preferable. The other processes referred to have been thoroughly tried in Virginia City, and found utterly unsuited to the conditions existing there. The first part of the process, is wet crushing of the ore, by stanips in iron mortars, a constant stream of water carrying off through a brass wire screen the pulverized portion as fast as re- duced small enough. The screens are at the back of the mortar. Five stamps, weighing about 650 pounds each, are usually placed in a .single mortar, and are lifted and dropped from five to eight inches about ninety times a minute. The feeder, standing in front, judges by the sound when and where to feed in the ore lying behind him. He is expected to feed two batter- ies of five stamps each, which are usually placed in one frame, and run by a single shaft. Some mills have twelve such batteries or sixty stamps. The amount crushed by a stamp in twenty-four hours for work never stops day or night varies with the fineness of the screen, the character of the ore, and the skill of the feeder, and is from one to two and a half tons a day. Automatic machinery for feeding batteries is now introduced in many mills. The stream running constantly from the bat- tery is received in a series of tanks and settled as much as possible, the deposit from it being coarse sand at first, and fine sediments at last. The fine sediments are called slums, and must be thoroughly mingled with the coarse sand in the after process, for though often containing the richest portion of the ore, the atoms are so im- palpably fine, and adhere to one another so closely, as to elude the mechanical agencies em- ployed to obtain the precious metal they bear, and, if worked by themselves, carry away nearly all they are worth with them. By mingling them with the sand in as nearly as possible the same proportion in which they come from the skimps, they become broken up, separated and distributed through the whole mass of pulp, and are persuaded to give up the most of the silver they hold. This silver is not in metallic form, but combined with sulphur, chlorine or antimony for the most part. Chlorides of silver easily and sulphurets more reluctantly part from the base with which they are united, and amalgamate with quicksilver. Antimonial silver not only refuses to do this, but obstructs the process on the part of other silver compounds with which it may be associ- ated, and is, therefore, dreaded by all silver mill- men who do not roast their ores ; but the com- pounds of silver at Virginia City, are chiefly chlorides, and antimonial silver ores, though they occur there, are found in small quantities only. To effect this amalgamation of the silver in the ore with mercury, the crushed pulp is now placed in quantities of one to two tons, some- times even more, in an iron pan, five or six feet in diameter and three to four feet deep, and ground and stirred by a revolving muller, till all the coarse sand is reduced fine. The muller is then raised and the grinding ceases, but the agi- tation is continued, and a large body of quick- silver is introduced, and steam is also let eithei into the body of the pulp, or a false bottom under the pan, so as to heat the whole mass, the amaU gamatorin charge standing by and testing it with his finger, thinning it with slums of water, thick- ening it with coarse sand, shutting off the steam or letting more on, as his judgment dictates, till the temperature and consistency suit. This pro- cess is continued from three to twelve hours, ac- cording to the richness and the kindly or refract- ory temper of the ore. Poor ores must be rushed through, that a large amount may be worked. Rich ores, after yielding handsomely, may still obstinately retain more value than some poor ones ever carried. The pulp is kept thick enough to float minute atoms of quicksilver, and is made to roll over and over by wings on the sides of the pan and on the muller, until all the amalgamation that can be effected is accomplished, when the motion is diminished, and the charge in the pan drawn off into a large settler on a lower level, where it is diluted with a large* volume of cold water, and slowly stirred, and the quicksilver atoms uniting, gather in a body at the bottom and are drawn off through a syphon. Meantime, a stream of water running through the settler, carries off the earthy contents, a*nd finally, when quicksilver ceases to gather, the settler is drawn off nearly to the bottom and made ready for the contents of another pan. It is usual to have one settler for two pans, and give half the time to settling that is occupied in grinding and amalgamating. The silver and gold, so far as they have been taken up, are now held by the quicksilver. This is strained through long, deep, conical, canvas bags, and the tough amalgam obtained is placed in close iron retorts, the quicksilver distilled out by fire ; crude bullion results, which is melted in a crucible and poured into moulds, and when weighed, assayed and stamped with its value, is ready for market. The discharged ore from the settler is called tailings, and is often caught in large reservoirs, and after lying months T years, as the case may be, is worked through the pans and settlers again, and this process is sometimes repeated several times, especially if ore becomes scarce. The practice of different mining companies as to the disposition of their tailings, varies exceed- 228 ingly. So long as ore is plenty, no pains are taken to save them. They never have been worked so closely as not still to carry several dollars to the ton value in precious metal. The process employed at Virginia City, is in use wherever silver is mined on the Pacific Coast, with such modifications as differences in the char- acter of the ore demand. Some ores are so re- fractory as to require roasting. They are first dried thoroughly, then crushed dry, next roasted to expel sulphur, antimony, zinc, etc., and then treated in pans and settlers as if crushed wet with- out roasting. The process is expensive, but has some compensation in the closer percentage of assay value obtained, and smaller waste of quick- silver. The loss of this metal in amalgamating unroasted ores, amounts in various ways to from two to four pounds for each ton worked. Some of it combines with chlorine in the ore, and is converted into calomel. This is lost beyond re- covery. Some of it is volatilized by the heat in the pans, and some escapes through the joints of the retorts, and this also is lost finally, and sometimes hurts workmen exposed to the fumes. Most of it is lost by not being gathered in the settler. It goes off in minute atoms, carrying gold and silver with it. This is partly recovered by working the tailings, or by running them over blankets in sluices which entrap enough of it to pay well for the cost of the process. Sinks of the Great Nevada Basin. One of the most wonderful natural features of that part of the Continent lying between the \Vahsatch and Sierra Nevada Ranges of Mount- ains, is the Great Desert and its numerous sinks. The sink of the Great Salt Lake has already been alluded to. It is a great natural curiosity of itself. It receives the waters of an immense region of country, and, though gradually rising, is still confined to its banks, and gives off its sur- plus waters by evaporation. There is no evi- dence whatever that it has a subterraneous out- let. Between it and the sinks of the Nevada Desert, there is an elevated ridge and broken Ganges of mountains, with gaps and valleys be- tween them. This whole desert has evidently been a lake, or an inland sea, at some time, while the mountains have been islands in it. Passing the ridge, or low divide between the broken mountains, which separates the Great Salt Lake fiom the desert beyond, and we ar- rive at the sinks of the Nevada Basin. The first is the Humboldt Lake, which has been de- scribed. Then the Humboldt and Carson Sink, which, unlike the Great Salt Lake, receives the waters of both the Humboldt River and Lake and the Carson River and Lake, flowing from opposite directions ; and, in the hot months of summer, when evaporation is greatest, is very nearly dry. On the other hand, in the spring, when the snows of the mountains melt, or when heavy rains occur in the winter and spring: months, causing a large flow of water in the Humboldt and Carson Rivers, these lakes of the same name nearly always rise together, and the vast salty plain, in and around the sink, becomes a lake of great size. There is no evidence of any subterranean outlet to the waters that flow into this large sink. On the contrary, those who have noticed the rapidity with which water dis- appears from a tub or other vessel exposed to the sun and air in this region, have no difficulty in be- lieving, in fact almost seeing, the process of evap- oration going on, by which the waters are drunk up and scattered over the earth in clouds, to be again distilled in rain. Walker Lake, which receives the flow of Walker River, is another one of these mysteri- ous sinks. It is off to the south of Carson Lake. The river rises in the Sierra Nevadas and flows in a general easterly direction, till its waters are swallowed up by the sands of the desert, or lost through the same process men- tioned elsewhere. There are also numerous streams rising in the mountains, assuming large proportions by the time they reach the valleys, but the sands of the desert soon drink them dry, and they are " lost to sight." North of the Central Pacific, about 20 miles from Wadsworth, are the sinks of Pyramid Lake, Winnemucca Lake and Mud Lake, the latter being a considerable distance north of Pyramid Lake. These bodies of water at times quite large, are called fresh water lakes, though they are brackish and abound in fish. North- east of Winnemucca Lake is Quin's River, quite a large stream near its source in the mountains of Idaho ; but it becomes lost in the desert, on its way, apparently, to Winnemucca Lake. These lakes and the desert are the mighty sinks which drink up the water that is not evaporated, but sometimes evaporation gets the best of them. North-west of Mud Lake, over in California, is Honey Lake, another remarkable body of water. It is sometimes dry so that teams can be driven across its bed, and then again it is on the ram- page. Its waters resemble soap-suds, and are admirably adapted for washing purposes. When lashed by the winds, its waters become a rolling mass of foam, and afford a magnificent specta- cle to the beholder. If it only had permanent water of the character alluded to, it would be an excellent location for a huge laundry. Stage Routes to Lake Tahoe. A favorite route to Lake Tahoe is via Carson City. It may be more easily reached and seen on the west- ward tour, than to wait and include it on the eastward return. After a visit to Virginia City, the tourist will return to Carson City, remain over night at a good comfortable hotel, the Ormsby House.-^ whose proprietor considers it " the highest toned hotel in Nevada," and next morning, at 8.30 A. M., take Benton's Stage for Tahoe. 229 6 230 To visit and make the circuit of the lake, and return to Carson will require at least 18 hours, but most tourists will find it desirable to stop at the little hotel on the opposite side of the lake, and return via Truckee, thus seeing greater variety of scenery. Tourists by this route to Virginia City, Carson and Tahoe, will be obliged to leave the Overland Western train at Reno at 8 :30 p. M. , and spend the night at Reno at the Railroad Hotel, or go on the same night to Carson or Virginia City. During the summer, stages leave Carson every morning about eight o'clock for Lake Tahoe. Private teams, or special stages, can be en- gaged at Benton's stables, in Carson, for a trip to the Lake at any time. On this route there is the best known of all California stage-drivers, who have reined kyuse or mustang horses, the modest Hank Monk. His first fame was not on the platform of Faneuil Hall in oratory, but in the streets of Boston, with eight horses abreast, well trained to the voice and whip. He has driven stage in California and Nevada, since 1852, and made the distance between Carson and Virginia, 21 miles, in one hour and eight minutes. His ap- pearance and gait do not indicate much energy, but he drove Horace Greeley 109 miles in 10 hours, fast enough toward the end of the journey, and as long as he can wake up his pets with a strong voice or far reaching whip, he will not fail to get his passengers through, " on time." But to the credit of others, it should be said, that California and Nevada have hundreds of drivers not less skillful and reliable than the favorite Monk. The route to the lake lies first south, through the Carson Valley, toward Job's Peaks and Silver Mountain, always beautiful with snow. In the clear atmosphere, the first will appear only a few miles away, but it is still more than twenty miles distant. The stage road turns west, up Clear Creek Canon, through which comes the Twenty- one Mile (V shaped) Flume of the Carson & Ta- hoe Lumber Company, through which 700 cords of wood, or half a million feet of mining timber can be daily delivered at Carson City from the summits of the Sierras. Along the canon are many towering, sun-burnt rocks, weather-beaten and worn into weird and fantastic shapes, and these and the swift-descending timber, splashing the water up many feet at every turn, to sparkle in the sunlight, the Carson Valley spread out below, with the Pine Nut, Walker and Sweet- water Mountains on one side, and the Sierras opposite, always attract and delight the lover of bold mountain scenery. At the summit, the flume connects with the Lake Tahoe N. G. Railroad, 9 miles long from summit to Glenbrook on shore of the lake. The distance is but three miles by wagon road, 6 miles less than by the R. R. The railroad is worked only in the summer months after much of it has been sought out and found with shovels, and is exposed to damage and de- struction from avalanches of snow or rock which come thundering down the steep sides with re- sistless force. Near the summit it has the enor- mous grade of 180 feet to the mile. This pas- sage over the eastern summit of the Sierras is made where the range is depressed and the view, though beautiful, is far too contracted to fully gratify the traveler. Below, lies Lake Tahoe, girt with everlasting pine-clad hills whose snowy masses and evergreen foliage mingle with the deep blue of an inland sea, yet only a small por- tion of its beauty can be seen. Lake Tahoe. This great body of fresh water, 25 miles long, on an average ten wide, about three-fourths in California, and one-fourth in Nevada, has an elevation of a mile and a quarter, and has been sounded to a depth of 3,000 feet. Through glacial action in past ages, ice must have been piled up in the valley of this lake 3,400 feet high. It never freezes, is smooth as glass and clear as crystal, permitting the trout to be seen or pebbles counted at a depth of 80 feet. Its water changes color to a beautiful emerald or almost indigo blue according to the depth, and when disturbed by the fierce mounts ain winds, its waves lash the shore with foaming fury. At Glenbrook. five steamers will be found, three of which are employed for the mills, and the others, the " Niagara " and " Stanford " will convey tourists, not exceeding 200 in number, around the lake. Glenbrook is the business center of the whole region that borders on the lake. It has four saw-mills with an aggregate capacity of five million feet per month, running 11 1-2 hours per day, also a planing mill. Captain Pray, the oldest settler, is a large land-owner, and much of the 200 acres in the ranche on the shores of the lake, is covered with a beautiful sod of timothy and clover. In the State there is no finer land, and as the captain and other mill-owners will rent none for saloon purposes, Glenbrook, with a summer population of 500, is a temperance town. The Glenbrook Hotel, usually kept in first-class style, is usually open each season, if not, comfortable accommo- dations can still be found at the Lake Shore House, for $20 a week, without extra charge for the use of boats. Shakespeare Rock, a remarkable curiosity, is a bold, perpendicular rock on which the profile of the great poet's face is outlined wiLh great accuracy. From Glenbrook there is a charming drive on the old Placerville Road, past Cave Rock, and around the head of the lake to Rowlands or 231 Yank's. The road was constructed at great ex- pense a single mile near the rock, costing f 40,- 000. The only* other drive, of note, n from Tahoe City to Sugar Pine Point. The whole of the lake is not visible until the steamer has run out a little distance from the shore. Then its generic name is rather fitting. " Tahoe," in the Indian, signifies " big water," a ad is the name for ocean. The shore slopes gently, in places, for two miles to a depth of from 30 to 50 feet, then breaks sometimes ab- ruptly as at the Bluffs of Rubicon or Observa- tory Point, to a depth of 600 or 800 feet; and off Sugar Pine Point is the greatest depth yet found. The water is clear as crystal, and the tempera- ture in summer, when taken from considerable depth, very near the freezing point. The fare across the lake is $2.50, and around, $5. The steamer must lie idle half the year, and reasona- ble fares may seem thus high. Leaving Glen- brook for a circuit around the head of the lake, ,the first object of interest is Cave Rock, three and one-half miles from Glenbrook, about 400 feet high. This appears in the engraving from Moran's sketch made from the point just south of Glenbrook, and looking south and west. After passing the rock, and looking back, it resembles the Great South Dome of Yosemite, split in two, and the cavern, 30 feet in length, is seen about 100 feet above the ground. The line of solid masonry and bridge for the road can just be traced from the point where the artist stood. Leaving Cave Rock, Zephyr Cove is three. miles south. Beautiful meadows afford fine pasturage, and being on the east side, the earliest vege- tables are here grown. The mountain's wall shows plainly its broken but regular character. From the main ridge, a cross spur is thrown out, but this must again be broken into a succession of small canons and " divides." Just south of the cave is the old Friday Ranche, well known by the pioneers who were "on the way to Washoe" and the Kingsbury Canon, through which the road crossed the mountain to Genoa. In other days, the toll re- ceipts on the Kingsbury grade were $500 a day. Rowlands 14 miles from Glenbrook, at the head of the lake, on the Old Placerville Road, was the first place of resort on the lake and originally called the Lake House. It has greatly changed from the day when J. Ross Browne was a guest, and the host " seemed to be quite worn out with his run of customers, from a hundred to three hundred of a night, and nowhere to stow 'em all cussin' at him for not keepin' provis- ions, with but little to drink, except old fash- ioned tarantula-juice, warranted to kill at forty paces." It has now two stores and a post-office, with accommodations for tourists at moderate price. Lake Valley appears, from a distance, like a large, pine-covered flat. It is 14 miles long and six wide, partly covered with timber, and having much grazing land of the best quality. The stock that pastures in these fertile valleys of the lake, is all driven out before the winter snows begin. Between Rowlands and Yank's, is the terminus of Gardner's Rail- road, a successful enterprise for lumbering. It will soon be extended from six to ten miles. Yank's is 4 miles from Rowlands, and at the south-west end of the lake, just west of and with convenient access to Lake Valley, and is situated on a grassy sward, in a beautiful grove of tamaracks interspersed with tall pines and quaking aspens, with a pebbly beach gently sloping from Teliae Point, commanding a view of the whole lake, with convenient access to Teliae Mountain, and only two miles from Fall- en Leaf Lake, another beautiful sheet of water, three miles long and one and one-half wide, at the head of which are excellent Soda Springs. Teliae Mountain is easily recognized from its long, flat summit, and may be ascended via Fall- en Leaf Lake and a steep canon. The view from the summit is one of the finest on the Con- tinent. To the east, looking across Lake Valley and the beautiful Tahoe, the eastern summits do not shut out the country beyond, for Carson Valley and much of Nevada are in sight. On the west, are the great valleys of central California, beyond them the Coast Range, and scattered among the countless snow and purple peaks of the Sierras, there nestle thirty-six lakes in sight, varying from the deep, dark blue of Tahoe to the bril- liancy of silver beneath a noonday sun. Horses and boats are always to be had at Yank's. Twenty dollars per week is the price of board ; boats are charged for at the rate of city prices for carriages. "Yank" is a soubriquet to mark the Green Mountain origin of the former host, Mr. E. Clement. It is now owned by Mr. Bald- win, of Baldwin's Hotel, San. Francisco, and the proprietor proposes to make it the most attractive place on the lake. None is more favored for situation, as it com- mands an unsurpassed view of the lake. Leaving Yank's, the steamer heads north and proceeds four miles to Emerald Bay, passing two well-rounded peaks at the foot of which is a beautiful valley, in which lies Cascade Lake. This, too. is accessible from Yank's and is one of its attractions. The point just north of the en- trance to Emerald Bay was long the home of America's pride among the birds, and is named Eagle Point. Emerald Bay is a gem of beauty entered on the south side of a narrow strait, as shown on our title-page. It is two miles long by about three-fourths of a mile wide. The entrance is shoal, but the bay deep. Near the head of the bay is a little granite island, with a few small trees and shrubs, and the unfilled tomb of an 32 eccentric tar Captain Dick who prepared the island for his own mausoleum, in which he in- tended to place himself on the approach of death, but his drowned body became food for the fishes, and the lonely cross marked an empty tomb. This charming bay is owned by Ben Holladay, Jr. His summer i-esidence is surrounded by a grove of willows and a stream fed by eternal snows, pouring down in three successive lofty waterfalls, which rival in grace and beauty some of the smaller in Yosemite, keeps the grassy sward always green, and plays in a fountain before the door. The surrounding hills are so steep that they can be climbed only with great difficulty. Just opposite the island, on the north side, there is the mark of an avalanche of snow, that carried the tall pines before it like shrubs, and has left the mountain side completely bare. Rubicon Point and Bay, and Sugar Pine Point are next passed, going north on the way to McKinney's, ten miles from Emerald Bay. At McKinney's, there is no large house, but 13 cottages and pleasant surroundings. The road to Tahoe City, gives this the ad vantage of a pleasant drive. Board may be had at |20 a week. Continuing north, the steamer passes Black- wood Creek, where some towering rocks are seen whose height is scarcely comprehended, because the trees and mountains beyond are on so great a scale. Small as they seem, they are two hun- dred and fifty feet high, and the trees at their base not less than 200 feet. Ward's Bay lies north of the Creek, and Bawker's Peak, a sharp, high point, is back in the mountains. Tahoe City. is eight miles from McKinney's, and one of the loveliest spots on the lake. It is at the source of the Truckee River, the only outlet of the lake, and has the " Grand Central," the largest hotel on the Sierras, with accommodations for 160 guests, and kept by those excellent hosts, Bayley & Moody. This is the most con- venient point of access for tourists from Califor- nia. The road to Truckee is down the beautiful canon of the Truckee River, through a noble forest of pines, invigorating and delightful at every step. Sail and row-boats of all kinds may be had at this point, and also carriages; but the prices should be agreed upon beforehand. No boats are kept for the use of the hotel. Board at the Grand Central may be had, vary- ing from $3.00 to $4.00 per day, according to rooms. The view of the lake from Tahoe City is not excelled, and equalled only at Yank's and the Hot Springs. The hotel and other accommodations are supe- rior to all others on the Jake. Besides the Grand Central, there is the Tahoe House, kept by Cap- tain Pomin. Tourists who desire to spend only one day in visiting the lake, take stages at this point to Truckee, 12 miles down the river. A carriage road has been constructed around the lake, so that tourists may take saddles or carriages and visit all the places of interest at their leisure. Trout. At Tahoe City there is a trout estab- lishment of much interest; and another, on a larger scale, on the river half way to Truckee Station. The water is admitted to a series of ponds, each pond being appropriated to trout of a different size. The eggs are taken during April, May and June, when the fish ascend the river and the creeks, to spawn. The eggs are stripped from the female and impregnated by stripping the male fish into the same vessel in which the eggs are contained, and then placed on inclined shelves or tables where about half an inch of water runs gently, but steadily over them. The temperature of the water affects the time of hatch- ing, and the desire is to have the water as cold as possible at the expense of time to produce the hardier fish. One trout contains about 7,000 spawn. Twenty-five cents is charged for admis- sion to the fishery, and the privilege of fishing in the ponds granted for twenty-five or fifty cents a fish, according to the size. The fishing in the lake is done by trolling. Spoon-hooks are sometimes used, but early in the season it is necessary to have some shining de- vice to attract attention besides a minnow on the hook. The fisheries have been quite success- ful in hatching fish, but not profitable. At first nearly all died ; now nearly all are raised. The young fish are nourished for several days after birth by a portion of the egg from which they are hatched remaining attached to them till it is absorbed, and then are fed on mashed fish, the yolks of eggs and liver, and the large trout are fed on suckers and white fish caught in the lakes with seines. Of course no trout are caught in seines, for this is contrary to law. After they have grown to weigh several pounds, they will increase at the rate of a pound a year. The quantity caught in a year can not be esti- mated. . Many are never sent to market, and they are caught in both the lake and the river as well as in Donner Lake. From the Truckee River ajone, 170,000 pounds have been caught in. a single season, half of which are usually shipped to Virginia City. In the lake there are at least four kinds, two of which are most commonly known. These are the silver trout and the black trout. The silver trout are most highly esteemed, are always taken in deep water, and attain a size of thirty-two pounds. The silver trout of Donner Lake grow from eight to ten pounds, and those in the river are not so large. The black trout run up the creeks sooner in the spring than the silver, but the latter can pass over greater obstacles than the former. 233 The white fish found in the lake are quite unlike those of the Great North American Lakes. While the tourist who merely crosses the lake from Glenbrook to Tahoe, or vice -versa, or who desires to reach the Central Pacific Kailroad, with the loss of one day only, will not make the entire circuit of the lake; others will visit the north end, and some may prefer this alone. Continuing around from Tahoe City, Burton's or Island Farm is two miles from Tahoe City. It is a lovely spot, with summer green meadows and pebbly beach, and accommodates at reasonable cost twenty-five or thirty people. It is a favorite resort for California clergymen needing rest. Burton's is not too far from Tahoe City for exercise at the oars of a small boat. Passing around the north end of the lake, there is next, Observatory Point, where the great telescope of James Lick was expected to be erected, and beyond this is Carnelian Bay, and Camel ian Beach, so called from fine specimens of chalcedony here found. Here is Doctor Bournes' hygienic establishment. Beyond this, are Agate bay and then Camp- bell's Hot Springs, ten miles from Glenbrook, and on Boundary Point, because it marks the dividing line between California and Nevada. The water boils out in several places in great volume. The hotel is comfortable; the charge $3 a day ; the entire lake is seen from the house, and the baths are an advantage to be had no- where else on the lake. There is a stage from this point to Truckee, and the stages from Tahoe City will also carry passengers thence to the springs. Fishing and boating and driving can be en- joyed at pleasure, and in the hills there are a few grouse, quail, deer, and bear, but game is not plentiful. The lumber and Trees of the Iiik^ Region. The logs which are brought down to the lake at various points are towed to Glenbrook in V-shaped booms, from 50 to 70 feet wide at one end, and about 150 feet long, averaging 200,000 feet of lumber. The sugar pine is the most valuable, then the yellow pine. The black, or " bull " pine was long despised, but is now highly prized for its strength. It reaches, in California, a diameter of 15, and height of 200 feet; about the lake, a diameter of 10 feet. The leaves are of a dark green color, but the cones are enormous some- times 18 inches long. The wood is fine grained and solid, soft and clear. The yellow pine is not quite so large, seldom exceeding 10 feet in diameter, and has bark fur- rowed into plate-like sections, six or eight inches wide, and from 12 to 20 inches long. The " bull " pine is a favorite with the wood- pecker for storing his acorns, not in the hollow trees, but by drilling holes in the bark, and fit- ting an acorn into each. Old woodmen say the bird never makes a misfit, arid selects, the first time, a nut which will exactly fill the hole he has drilled. In the valleys of California, nearly all large trees are utilized in this way. There are two kinds of fir, the white and the red. The latter called also the Douglass fir, is a good strong timber ; the former is the least esteemed in the market. Other pines of the Sierras are interesting, but notice of all must be omitted except the Nut or " Digger " pine, so called from a sweet or oily seed forming a staple article of food for the Indians, but it does not grow in the high Sierras. It is dwarfish and scraggy, without one main trunk, but dividing up into several. It is said that this is so liable to " draw " while seasoning, that miners who were compelled to use it for building their cabins, were not sur- prised to see them turn over two or three times in the course of the summer. To see the mountains, the best plan is to stop at the summit, where there is a first-class hotel, and gain the views from the peaks near by, and then descend the mountain by a freight train, leaving the summit at 5:30 A. M., and reaching Sacramento the same evening at 4:10. For this, one must be willing to exchange the Palace car for the caboose, and accept delay in exchange for the leisurely enjoyment of the most wonderful railroad scenery in the world. The Great Nevada Flume. A PEEILOUS RIDE. BY H. J. KAMSDELL, OF "THE N. Y. TBIBTJNE." A 15 mile ride in a flume down the Sierra Nevada Mountains in 35 minutes, was not one of the things contemplated on my visit to Virginia City, and it is entirely within reason to say that I shall never make the trip again. The flume cost, with its appurtenances, between $200,000 and $300,000. It was built by a com- pany interested in the mines here, principally owners of the Consolidated Virginia, California, Hale & Norcross, Gould & Curry, Best & Belcher, and Utah Mines. The largest stockholders are J. C. Flood, James G. Fair, John Mackey, and W. S. O'Brien, who compose, without doubt, the wealth- iest firm in the United States. The mines named use 1,000,000 feet of lumber per month underground, and burn 40,000 cords of wood per year. Wood here is worth from $10 to $12 a cord, and at market prices, Messrs. 234 Flood & Co., would have to pay for wood alone, nearly $500,000 per year. Virginia City is not built in a forest. From the top of Mount Davidson, which is half a mile back from the city, there is not a tree in sight, except a few shade-trees in the city. Going into the mines the other day, and see- ing the immense amount of timber used, I asked Mr. Mackey where all the wood and timber came from. " It comes," said he, " from our lands in the Sierras, 40 or 50 miles from here. We own over 12,000 acres in the vicinity of Washoe Lake, all of which is heavily timbered." " How do you get it here ? " I asked. " It comes," said he, " in our flume down the mountain, 15 miles, and from our dumping grounds is brought by the Virginia & Truckee Railroad to this city, 16 miles. You ought to see this flume before you go back. It is really a wonderful thing." The Journey. When, therefore, two days afterward, I was invited to accompany Mr. Flood and Mr. Fair to the head of the flume, I did not hesitate to accept their kind offer. We started at four o'clock in the morning, in two buggies, the two gentlemen named in one buggy, and Mr. Hereford, the President and Superintendent of the company (which is known as the Pacific Wood, Lumber and Flume Company) and myself in the other. The drive through Washoe Valley, and along the mountains, up and down for 16 miles over a road which, for picturesqueness, is without an equal in memory, can not be described. Not a tree, nor bush, nor any green vegetation was in sight. Hills and mountains, well defined and separate in character, were in every direction. Sage brush and jack rabbits were the only living things in sight. That beautiful purple atmos- phere or mist, which has a dreamy, sleepy effect in the landscape, overspread the mountains and extended through the valley. The road we traversed swung round and round the mountains, now going nearly to the summit, and now descending to their base. Both teams employed were of the best, and in less than an hour and a half we had accom- plished the first part of our journey, 16 miles. Here we breakfasted and went to the end of the flume, a quarter of a mile distant. The men were running timber 16 inches square and 10 feet long through it. The trestle-work upon which the flume rested was about 20 feet from the ground. The velocity of the movement of the timber could scarcely be credited, for it re- quires from only twenty-five minutes to half an hour for it to float the entire length of the flume, 15 miles. The flume is shaped like the letter V, and is made of two-inch plank nailed together in the above shape. Across the top it is about two and one-half feet in width. The ends are very care- fully fitted, so that where the planks go together there may be no unevenness ; for timbers going at the rate of 15 to 60 miles per hour must have a clear coast. In this trough the water runs from Hunter's Creek, which is situated about 20 miles from the terminus of the flume. Some idea of the swiftness with which the timber runs through the flume, may be had when it is stated that in the flume there floats 500,000 feet of lumber every day (about ten hours), or 500 cords of wood. Near the terminus an iron break is placed in the trough, slanting toward one side, so that when the timber comes rushing down, 50 or 100 pieces, one after the other, each piece is turned toward the side, and the men at the break, with a dexterous use of the crowbar, send them bounding to the ground. I climbed to the top of the trestle-work, be- fore the timber began to come. It was like the rushing of a herd of buffalo on a party of hunt- ers, and I preferred to view the flume, in active working, from a distance. We changed teams upon resuming our journey, taking fresh horses for the mountain ascent. Horsemen in the East who have never seen the mountains of Nevada, Colorado and California, can have no idea of the amount of work a horse can do, and of the difficult places through which he will go, and of the load he will carry or draw. How a pair of horses can pull a buggy and two men up a grade that seems half-way be- tween the horizontal and the perpendicular, over stones and fallen trees, and through underbrush six feet high and very thick, is a question I can never hope to solve ; at any rate, we reached the lower mill of the company, about 18 or 20 miles. This was several hours before noon. The mill is situated in the lower belt of tim- ber, and there are between 400 and 500 men at work. This number includes those engaged in cutting trees, hauling logs, and sawing the lum- ber. How the heavy machinery of the mills, and the engines which work them were broughf from the city up the mountains and placed in position, is another mystery which I have not tried to investigate. The amount of lumber turned out by the owner of these mills, the upper and the lower, the former being two and one-half miles farther up the mountain, is marvellous. In five minutes' time, a log from two to four feet in diameter is reduced to lumber, planks, scantling, boards, and square timber, perhaps all from the same log, for it is cut in the most ad- vantageous manner. Sometimes one log will give three or four different kinds of lumber. The lower mill is kept running night and day, an' 1 , has a capacity of 50,000 feet per day cf small stuff, and of 70,000 feet when working on large timber. meow 235 SUMMITS OF THE SIERRAS. BY TJIOMAS MOKAN. 236 The upper mill has less than half the capacity, being smaller, and being worked only 12 hours a aay. The Flume. The flume is a wonderful piece of engineering work. It is built wholly upon trestle-work, and stringers ; there is not a cut in the whole distance, and the grade is so heavy that there is little danger of a jam. The trestle-work is very substantial, and is un- doubtedly strong enough to support a narrow gauge railway. It runs over foot hills, through valleys, around mountains, and across canons. In one place it is 70 feet high. The highest point of the flume from the plain, is 3,700 feet, *nd on an air line, from beginning to end, the distance is eight miles, the course thus taking up seven miles in twists and turns. The trestle- work is thoroughly braced, longitudinally and across, so that no break can extend farther than a single box, which is 16 feet ; all the main sup- ports, which are five feet apart, are firmly set in mud-sills, and the boxes or troughs rest in brackets four feet apart. These again rest upon sub- stantial stringers. The grade of the flume is between 1,600 and 2,000 feet from the top to lower end, a distance of 15 miles. The sharpest fall is three feet in six. There are two reservoirs from which the flume is fed. One is 1,100 feet long, and the other 600 feet. A ditch, nearly two miles long, takes the water to the first reservoir, whence it is conveyed 3 1-4 miles to the flume through a feeder capable of carrying 450 inches of water. The whole flume was built in 10 weeks. In that time all the trestle-work, stringers and boxes were put in place. About 200 men were employed on it at one time, being divided into four gangs. It required 2,000,000 feet of lumber, but the item which astonished me most was that there were 28 tons, or 56,000 pounds of nails, used in the construction of this flume. To the lower mill, as the road goes, it is about 40 miles from Virginia City. Although I had already ridden this distance, yet I mounted a horse and rode two or three miles to the top of the mountain, where I had one of the finest valley views that come to the lot of man. Miles and miles below, the valley was spread out with spots and squares of green crops growing, and barren wastes of sand and sage brush reach- ing in a long stretch to the base of another spur of the Sierras. The City of Reno occupied a little spot on the plain from my mountain it seemed like a city of toy houses built on Xature's carpet. A Ride in the Flume. Upon my return I found that Mr. Flood and Mr. Fair had arranged for a ride in the flume, and I was challenged to go with them. Indeed, the proposition was put in the form of a challenge they dared me to go. I thought that if men worth $25,000,000 or $'"> ),000,000 apiece, could afford to risk their live I could afford to risk mine, which was not worth half as much. So I accepted the challenge, and two boats were ordered. These were nothing more than pig-troughs, with one end knocked out. The " boat " is built, like the flume, V shaped, and fits into the flume. It is composed of three pieces of wood two two-inch planks, 18 feet long, and an end board which is nailed about two and one-half feet across the top. The forward end of the boat was left open, the rear end closed with a board against which was to come the current of water to propel us. Two narrow boards were placed in the b'/at for seats, and everything was made ready. Mr. Fair and myself were to go in the first boat, and Mr. Flood and Mr. Hereford in the other. Mr. Fair thought that we had better take a third man with us who knew something about the flume. There were probably 50 men from the mill standiug in the vicinity waiting to see us off, and whein it was proposed to take a third man, the question was asked of them if anybody was willing to go. Only one man, a red-faced carpenter, who takes more kindly to whisky than his bench, volun- teered to go. Finally, everything was arranged. Two or three stout men held the boat over the flume, and told us to jump into it the minute it touched the water, and to " hang on to our hats" The signal of " all ready " was given, the boat was launched, and we jumped into it as best we could, which was not very well, and away we went like the wind. One man who helped to launch the boat, fell into it just as the water struck it, but he scam- pered out on the trestle, and whether he was hurt or not, we could not wait to see. The grade of the flume at the mill is very heavy, and the water rushes through it at rail- road speed. The terrors of that ride can never be blotted fi'om the memory of one of that party. To ride upon the cow-catcher of an engine down a steep grade is simply exhilarating, for you know there is a wide track, regularly laid upon a firm foundation, that there are wheels grooved and fitted to the track, that there are trusty men at the brakes, and better than all, you know that the power that impels the train can be rendered powerless in an instant by the driver's light touch upon his lever. But a flume has no ele- ment of safety. In the first place the grade can not be regulated as it can on a railroad ; you can not go fast or slow at pleasure ; you are wholly at the mercy of the water. You can not stop ; you can not lessen your speed ; you have nothing to hold to; you have only to sit still, shut your eyes, say your prayers, take all the water that comes filling your boat, wetting your feet, drenching you like a plunge through the surf, and wait for eternity. It is all there is to hope for after you are launched in a flume-boat. I 237 an not give the reader a better idea of a flume ride than to compare it to riding down an old :fashioned eave-trough at an angle of 45, hang- ing in midair without support of roof or house, and thus shot a distance of 15 miles. At the start, we went at the rate of about 20 miles an hour, which is a little less than the 'av- erage speed of a railroad train. The reader can have no idea of the speed we made, until he compares it to a railroad. The average time we made was 30 miles per hour a mile in two min- utes for the entire distance. This is greater than the average running time of railroads. Incidents of the Ride. The red-faced car- penter sat in front of our boat on the bottom, as best he could. Mr. Fair sat on a seat behind him, and I sat behind Mr. Fair in the stern, and was of great service to him in keeping the water, which broke over the end-board, from his back. There was a great deal of water also shipped in the bows of the hog-trough, and I know Mr. Fair's broad shoulders kept me from many a wetting in that memorable trip. At the heaviest grade the water came in so furiously in front, that it was impossible to see where we were going, or what was ahead of us ; but, when the grade was light, and we were go- ing at a three or four-minute pace, the vision was very delightful, although it was terrible. In this ride, which fails me to describe, I was perched up in a boat no wider than a chair, some- times 20 feet high in the air, and with the ever varying altitude of the flume, often 70 feet high. When the water would enable me to look ahead, I would see this trestle here and there for miles, so small and narrow, and appar- ently so fragile, that I could only compare it to a chalk-mark, upon which, high in the air, I was running at a rate unknown upon railroads. One circumstance dui'ing the trip did more to show me the terrible rapidity with which we dashed through the flume, than anything else. We had been rushing down at a pretty lively rate of speed, when the boat suddenly struck something in the bow a nail, or lodged stick of wood, which ought not to have been there. What was the result? The red-faced carpenter was sent whirling into the flume, 10 feet ahead. Fair was precipitated on his face, and I found a goft lodgment on Fair's back. It seemed to me that in a second's time, Fair, himself a powerful man, had the carpenter by the scruff of the neck, and had pulled him into the boat. I did not know that, at this time, Fair .had his fingers crushed between the boat ftnd the flume. But we sped along ; minutes seemed hours. It seemed an hour before we arrived at the worst place in the flume, and yet Hereford tells me it was less than 10 minutes. The flume at the point Alluded to must have very near 45 inclination. In looking out before we reached it, I thought the only way to get to the bottom was to fall. How our boat kept in the track is more than I know. The wind, the steamboat, the railroad never went so fast. I have been where the wind blew at the rate of 80 miles an hour, and yet my breath was not taken away. In the flume, in the bad places, it seemed as if I would suffocate. The first bad place that we reached, and if I remember right, it was the worst, I got close against Fair. I did not know that I would sur- vive the journey, but I wanted to see how fast we were going. So I lay close to him and placed my head between his shoulders. The water was coming into his face, like the breakers of the ocean. When we went slow, the breakers came in on my back, but when the heavy grades were reached, the breakers were in front. In one case Fair shielded me, and in the other, I shielded Fair. In this particularly bad place I allude to, my de- sire was to form some judgment of the speed we were making. If the truth must be spoken, I was really scared almost out of reason ; but if I was on the way to eternity, I wanted to know exactly how fast I went; so I huddled close to Fair, and turned my eyes toward the hills. Every object I placed my eye on was gone, be- fore I could clearly see what it was. Mountains passed like visions and shadows. It was with difficulty that I could get my breath. I felt that I did not weigh an hundred pounds, although I knew, in the sharpness of intellect which one has at such a moment, that the scales turned at two hundred. Mr. Flood and Mr. Hereford, although they started several minutes later than we, were close upon us. They were not so heavily loaded, and they had the full sweep of the water, while we had it rather at second hand. Their boat finally struck ours with a terrible crash. Mr. Flood was thrown upon his face, and the waters flowed over him, leaving not a dry thread upon him. What became of Hereford I do not know, except that when he reached the terminus of the flume, he was as wet as any of us. This only remains to be said. We made the entire distance in less time than a railroad train would ordinarily make, and a portion of the time we went faster than a railroad train ever went. Fair said we went at least a mile a minute. Flood said we went at the rate of 100 miles an hour, and my deliberate belief is that we went at a rate that annihilated time and space. We were a wet lot when we reached the terminus of the flume. Flood said he would not make the trip again, for the whole Consolidated Virginia Mine. Fair said that he should never again place him- self on an equality with timber and wood, and Hereford said he was sorry that he ever built the flume. As for myself, I told the millionaire that 238 I had accepted my last challenge. When we left our boats we were more dead than alive. We had yet 16 miles to drive to Virginia City. How we reached home, the reader will never know. I asked Flood what I was to do with my spoiled suit of English clothes. He bade me good night, with the remark that my clothes were good enough to give away. The next day, neither Flood nor Fair were able to leave their bed. For myself, I had only strength enough left to say, " / have had enough of flumes " RENO TO SAN FRANCISCO. Proceeding from Reno, directly to San Fran- cisco, the line of the railroad is along the Truckee River. ,.,- = The meadows grow narrower, ^-_^ and the mount- ains approach on / either side, then / widen again in / Pleasant Valley. / - Verdi is 234 Jjl miles east of San JB Francisco, has jj three stores and a J| planing mill ; de- rives its impor- tance from the lumber trade, and its notoriety from the robbery o f the express and mail cars, of an overland train. The scenery is now becoming fine ; Crystal Peak may be seen on the right, and win- ter moonlight nights will add charms to make the views more lovely and unique between this point and Truckee. Then the mount- ains, denuded at their base of all timber, and the shrubs and stumps buried in deep snow are of un- broken, silvery white, while the lofty pines, farther up the steep sides or on the rounding tops, form a veil of green, and above all irregular, fleecy clouds float fantastically by, as if a silvery mist in the valleys was rising over t'.n dark peaks, mingling light of many shades, SNOW SHEDS ACROSS THE SIERRAS. while exulting clouds, glide smoothly and silently along the azure sky. The Truckee River foams, as its rapid waters battle witL *he rocks, and it is crossed and re- crossed on tiowe truss bridges, and the mount- ains, often precipitous, show their volcanic origin in masses of basaltic rock. Essex, 233, and Mystic, 227 miles from San Francisco, are side tracks at which passengers trains do not stop. Bronco is 223 miles from San Francisco. Soon after leaving the station there will be noticed a post marked "State Line," stand- ing on the one hundred and twentieth meridian west of "Washington, D. C., and this passed, _^_^ the traveler is in the Golden State ^v of California. \ Between Bronco and Boca, at what was Camp 18, a \ flag station has just been located and named Dover. Boca, a tele- graph station, is 218 miles from San Francisco, with a population of about 150. It is at the mouth of the Little Truckee River, and is the Spanish name for " mouth." The only business is that of the Boca Lumber Mill and Ice Company, and the Boca Brewery, the latter the larg- est on the Pacific Coast, and on ac- count of the equa- ble temperature, expected to pro- duce thebestlager- beer in the world. About8,000tonsof ice are cut yearly from the pond. The cold is some- times severely felt, the mercury standing at 22 be- low zero during the winter of 1875-6. Prosser Creek is 216 miles from San Fran- cisco at the mouth of a creek of the same name, called from a hotel keeper in early days. It is a flag station, and the terminus of a flume for sev- eral milling stations, and the ice-field for two 239 companies that supply San Francisco. Continu- ing west 3.3 miles, we reach jfroctor's, 212 miles from San Francisco, but trains do not stop. On the left will be noticed a large tract of flat land covered with timber, or stumps, and a raiiche or two. Across this and over the range of hills beyond, lies Lake Tahoe, but keeping to the river, 3.2 miles from Proctor's, we reach Truckee, 209 miles from San Francisco, the dividing line between the Truckee and Sacramento divisions of the railroad, with a roundhouse for 24 engines. It has one weekly newspaper, the Republican, and is the most import- ant town in the Sierras, on account of the business done, as a summer resort, and be- cause of its convenience to other favorite resorts. It is the seat of a large lumber trade, and would be ben- efited by the establishment of an exten- sive fire insur- ance business. The town was burned in 1868, 1869, twice in 1870, in 1874, and "ChinaTown" in 1875. The prevail- ing winds are west, and in summer one might think the great width of the street is designed to pre- vent fires from the locomotive sparks, but in winter the more probable suggestion is that it is for the convenience of piling up the snow when the people shovel out their houses. The population is about 2,000, nearly one-third of which are Chinamen. A large number of good stores are arranged on the north side of the street, and considerable trade carried on with Sierra and Pleasant Valleys on the north. The Truckee Hotel, where the train stops, is a very popular resort, the table being always supplied in season with the choicest trout and game. Many desiring the bene- fit of mountain air, and the convenience of the railroad, spend their summer months in GALLERY IN SNOW SHEDS, C. P. B. B Truckee, from which Donner Lake is distant only two miles, and Tahoe 12. Stages leave Truckee on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays for Randolph, 28 miles, time four hours, and fare $4; Sierraville, 29 miles, time four and one-fourth hours, fare $4 ; Sierra City, 60 miles, time ten hours, fare $8 ; Downieville, 72 miles, time twelve hours, fare if 10; Jamison City, 55 miles, time ten hours, fare $8, and Eu- reka Mills, 58 miles, time ten and one-half hours, fare $8. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays for Loyalton, 30 miles, time five hours, fare $4 : Beckwith, 45 miles, time seven and one-half hours, fare $5. The stages leaving on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, are also the stages for Webber Lake, 16 miles north of Truckee, and Independ- ence Lake, about the same distance. At each of these is a good hotel. Webber Lake is about the size of Donner, en- circled by high, snow- capped mount- ains, but beau- tified by a rim of f er- tile meadow around ita pebbly beach. "Webber Lake is one of the most popuiar resorts for trout fishing on the coast. The accommodations are excellent, and the fish plentiful. It has, perhaps, no rival except the McCloud Biver and Castle Lake, near Mount Shasta. The tourist who stops a few days to sojourn at Webber will be amply re- paid both in scenery and sport. Stages leave the summit daily, passing along Donner Lake to Truckee, thence to Tahoe City on Lake Tahoe. Fare from the summit to Tahoe, $2.50. Truckee to Tahoe, $2 ; John F. Moody, of the Truckee Hotel, also runs an elegant open coach, of the Kim- ball Manufacturing Company, between Truckee and Tahoe City, daily, fare $2 ; and Campbell's stages leave every morning for Campbell's Hot Springs on Lake Tahoe. 210 A Snow-Storm at Truckee. At mid- night, the mountain peaks stood clear and white, with deep shadows here and there, and above, a cloudless sky ; but, at daylight, a foot of new s;iow lay upon many previous snows. The one-story houses were hid from view. While the air was full of falling flakes, busy men were shoveling off the roofs of their dwellings shoveling all the while, and half a hundred Chinamen were loading cars with snow from the railroad track to throw it down some steep mountain side. Men are coming in with their shoes in hand not number thirteens, but thir- teen feet long, and stand them up against the wall. These snow- shoes are about six inches wide, turned up in front like the runner of a skate, and wax- ed to make them slip 'easi- ly over the snow. Near the middle is a leather that laces over the instep (a skele- ton half-shoe), and out of which the foot will slip in case of a fall or acci- dent. A long pole is carried like a rope-dancer's to preserve a balance, and to straddle and sit upon for a brake, when descend ing a hill. They are essential to safety in these storms. As I watched the falling snow, nothing could exceed the beauty. As it curled and shot through the air, the mountains were shut out with a gauzy veil and darker mists. Now and then I caught a glimpse of a clump of pines on the mountain side, indistinct and gray in shadow, and as the fitful snow favored the straining eye, the long white boughs seemed bending as if con- scious of the enormous weight that threatened every living thing. When the clouds broke suddenly away, a flood of golden light leaped from hill to hill. The tall pines, partly green, but now like pyramids of MARY'S LAKE, MIRROR VIEW. snow, lift their heads above the mountain sides. But in less than fifteen minutes after the first sight of the sun, a long stratum of dark cloud came down the mountain, and the snow falls thicker and faster than ever. Its hard crystals were driven so furiously as to make one's cheeks burn, and give exquisite torture to the eyelids. I looked upon the rapid river, and around its snow-capped rocks the water played in foaming cascades. The enormous snow-plows at length grappled with this monster of the elements. From east and west came reports of ava- lanches, snow sheds down, trains wrecked and snow-bound, and soon the telegraph refused to do its bidding. The ponder- ous engines were throws from the rails in the streets, before our eyes, by the hard crystals which t n e y crushed into glacier-like ice. With five of them behind the largest snow-plow o n the road, we started toward the summit. The snow flew and even the ground trembled, and every piece of the short snow sheds was wel- comed with joy and misgiving. The blinding snow, I thought, will cease to fly, but suppose tnat, when crushed into ice like granite, it lifts the ponderous plow of 30 tons, or that we go crashing into the shed prostrate beneath twenty or forty feet of snow ; or that an avalanche has come down and our way lies through the tangled trunks of these huge Sierra pines ; five boilers behind that may soon be on top of us. Never before did I realize the need of the snow sheds, but I often rebelled against the shut- ting out of nature's mountain charms 'Yom the weary or unoccupied traveler. Let the discontented not forget that ave feet of snow may fall in one day ; that twenty and thirty feet may lie all over the ground at one 241 TUNNEL NO. 12, STRONG'S CANON. nine ; that forty and fifty feet are sometimes to be seen, where the road-bed is secure beneath it, and that the canons often contain a hundred feet. These capacious reservoirs are the pledge of summer fruitfulness. A winter scene in these Sierras without even the sight of unfriendly train, will beget a fondness for the snow sheds that the summer tourist cannot imagine, and a better appreciation of the boldness and daring of the men who brave the hardships of these mountain storms, and peril their lives at every step for other's safety. Day and night I saw the servants of the public, from highest to low- est, haggard and worn, yet never ceasing in their battle against the tremendous storm, and was overwhelmed thinking of our indebtedness to their energy, skill and endurance, as well as by viewing 'the wonderful works of God. " The feeding of the rivers and the purifying of the winds are the least of the services appointed to the hills. To fill the thirst of the human heart with the beauty of God's working, to startle its lethargy with the deep and pure agitation of astonishment are their higher missions." Snow Sheds. The snow sheds, so important to winter travel, are found east of Strong's Canon Station, and west of Emigrant Gap, wherever there is no side hill, and the removal of the snow would be difficult for the plow. Between these two stations, they are without break, except for tunnels and bridges. In all, there are about 40 miles of the sheds. They are of two kinds, the flat roof, built to hold the weight of 25 or 30 feet of snow, or slide it down the mountain side, and those with the pitched or steep roof, and " batter brace." The massiveness of the huge pine trunks, or sawed timbers, twelve or sixteen inches on a side, may be easily seen from the cars. The cost per mile varied from $8,000 to $10,000, and where it was necessary to build heavy retaining walls of ma- sonry, some dry and some cement walls, the cost was at the rate of $30,000 per mile. Sometimes the heavy square timbers are bolted to the solid ledge, that avalanches may be carried by, and the sheds remain. At a distance the sheds look small, but they are high enough to insure the safety of break men who pass over the tops of the freight cars. During the summer months when everything is sun-scorched, the destruction of the sheds by. 242 fire is often imminent, and great loss has been suffered in this "way. To prevent fires, the greatest precaution is used, and the most effective measures adopted to extinguish a con- flagration. At short intervals, both sides and roof are of corrugated iron to stop the progress of a fire, and the whole line from Strong's Canon to Emigrant Gap, provided with automatic fire- alarms, telegraphing the place of danger, and at t!ie summit is a train with tanks, and the engine ready to become instantly a well-equipped fire- brigade. Near Truckee the railroad leaves the river which turns to the southland it follows Donner Creek, the outlet of Donner Lake, for a short dis- tance and then turns up the great and magnifi- cent canon of Cold Stream Creek, in a direction nearly south-west. Before leaving Donner Creek, we are hard by " Starvation Camp," where in the dnter of 1816-7 a company of eighty-two persons, coming to California, were overtaken by snow, lost their cattle, and were reduced to such straits that many survivors fed on the remains of their starved companions. The company comprised eighty-two persons, of whom thirty-two were females, a large proportion of the whole being children. Thirty-six perished, of whom twenty- six were males. Of a party of thirteen, who went out for help, ten perished. Relief was sent to the company, but it was impossible to save all. Mrs. Donner, when the alternative was presented her, early in March, of leaving her husband, and going away with her children, or remaining with him and soon perishing, refused to abandon him, and when, in April, the spot was visited again, his body was found carefully dressed and laid out by her. How long she sur- vived him is not known. The sufferings of this party were insignificant in amount when com- pared with the whole aggregate of misery en- dured in the early peopling of California by the Overland, the Cape Horn, and the Panama Route, but no other tale connected with these early days is so harrowing in its details as this, and no one thinking of Donner Lake, turns from its quiet and beauty, to think ot this tragedy that gave it its name, without a shudder. The old road across the mountains to Sutter's Fort, followed up the Cold Stream, where snows no longer forbid a passage across the dangerous summits. Along and rounding this Cold Stream Canon are the finest views on the eastern side of the Sierras, not shut out by snow sheds from the traveler by rail. The canon is wide and long, and far above and across, the road-bed is cut on the steep mountain side, and then protected by Jong snow sheds till at last it enters tunnel No. 13. Looking up the canon, on the right, soon after entering, or back, after the Horse-Shoe Curve ;ias been made, a long Hue of purple pyramids and jagged precipices surround the valley, and if the road is not at the bottom of everything, the enormous face of the mountain seems to forbid the most daring attempt to ascend. But upward still looking back to the valley of the Truckee far below, and the train reaches Strong's Canon, 203 miles from San Fran- cisco, which is a side track, telegraph office and turn-table, for snow-plows, principally. Cold Stream must not be confounded with Strong's Canon, for the latter will not be reached till the train has passed half-way along the lofty wall of Donner Lake. The station was originally a* Strong's Canon, but was afterward moved to tun- nel No. 13, the point where the road leaves Cold Stream Canon. Donner Lake the gem of the Sierras, is just below, and the vigilant eye will.be rewarded by a sight of it through the observation holes in the snow sheds, and when the train crosses a bridge in doubling Strong's Canon. After leav- ing this Canon, the road-bed is cut out of rough, rugged, granite rocks ; and before the summit is reached, it has passed through the seventh tun- nel from Cold Stream. These are almost indis- tinguishable from the sombre sr.ow sheds, and Nos. 11 and 12 and likewise 7 and 8, are almost continuous. The longest are Nos. 13 and 6, the former 870 feet, and the latter, 1,659 feet, and the longest on the line of the road. Emerging from tunnel No. 6, the Smninit t - 195 miles from San Francisco, is announced, and the train is ready to descend rapidly to the valley of the Sacramento. It is a day and night telegraph station, and has an alti tude of 7,017 feet 119.8 feet above Truckee and is the highest point on the line of the road. Many of the surrounding peaks are two and three thousand feet higher. The Summit House is the largest hotel along the line of the road, accommodates 150 guests, and is one of the most popular in the Sierras. One who lets the train go by, to climb to the top of the ridge through which the tunnel leads, or some higher peak, will never be sorry, for an enchanting panorama will be unrolled. Summit Valley, with its bright pastures, and warm with life, while it touches bleak rocks, and receives the shade of the inhospitable pine or the drip of the snow one of the loveliest val- leys at such an altitude lies toward the setting sun. In the rim that shuts out the south-west wind, towers the Devil's Peak, a bold cliff rising from out of wild surroundings ; and following the ridge eastward with the eye, and around toward the point of vision, there are prominent. Old Man's Peak, just across the valley, sharp- ened by the wintry storms of his long life, and on the main ridge, Mount Lincoln, 9,200 feet high, and Donner Peak, 2,000 feet above the railroad, and 3,200 above the lake that sleeps in quiet beauty at its base; and across the railroad 244 the peak from which Bierstadt sketched the " Gem " beneath. Then there are a thousand other charms in the vast heights above, and vast depths below ; in contrasts of light and shade, form and color ; in mists hanging over the lake, and clouds clinging to the peaks; in the twilight deepening into darkness, or colossal pyres, kindled by the coming sun, and going out in the clear light of the day ; or, in the gloom of the forest mingled with the living silver of the moonlit lake. The peaks may be ascend- ed some with difficulty, and some with mod- erate exertion but persons of feeble constitu- tion may enjoy all the varied charms. The lake is of easy access, and has on its banks a hotel for tour- ists. The dis- tance to the lake by the carriage road is 2 1-2 miles, and Truckee 9 miles. The summit di- vides the waters that flow east and sink amid desert sands, from those that flow west into the Sacramento river. Summit Valley 2X miles long and one mile wide, heads in tho high peaks south of the hotel. It has pasturage during the summer for many cattle, and its springs and abundance of products fresh from the dairy make it a delightful place for camping out. Its waters are the source of the South Fork of the South Yuba River. The railroad, descends to the foot of this valley, keeping the divide on the north to the right, then, about three miles from the summit, crosses the most southerly branch of the Yuba. A few yards before the crossing is a summer flag station, or Soda Springs Station 192 miles from San Francisco. These springs are situated on the south side of the high ridge that forms the southern wall of Summit Valley, and LAKE ANGELINE. are in the headwaters of the American River. They are numerous, flow abundantly, and are highly medicinal. Stages run to them both from the summit, and from Soda Station, and the ride is not surpassed, if equaled, by anv in the Sierras north of Yosemite, in the number and beauty of the fine views it affords. The hotel at the Springs is not an imposing structure, but it is kept in first-class style and is a favorite resort. The dividing ridge, which the railroad now follows, is on the left, and on the right are great ridges and can- ons, which gath- er more water for the Yuba. Their extent alone impresses the beholder with awe, but the snow sheds allow no satis- factory view. The first reg- ular station after leaving the summit is 5.8 miles west, called Cascade, 189 miles from San Francisco. The vertical de- scent from the summit to this point is 498 feet, and nothing here will check one's readiness to descend far- ther, for it is only a signal station, and there are none to signal, ex- cept such as are employed on the road. South of the station are Kidd's Lakes, empty- ing into the South Branch of the South Yuba through the Upper and Lower Cascade Ravines. The bridges over the ravines will be a grateful but short-lived relief from the restraint of the snow sheds. The time in passing is too short to take in the charms of the water-falls in summer, or the ice-clad rocks in winter, and the extended view on the right. Kidd's Lakes are dammed so as to impound the water during the winter and spring, and when the dry season approaches, it is let out over the Cascades into the river and carried, eventually, t Dutch Flat. 245 SCENERY OF THE SIERRAS, NEAR SUMMIT. There is a great spur, called " Crockers " thrown out in this ridge, through which the road passes in tunnel No. 5, and thence along Stanford Bluffs to Tamarack, '185 miles' from San Francisco, another signal station. A stop will not be likely, unless to meet or pass a freight train. A small saw-mill is in operation during part of the year. Just below Tamarack, the Yuba has worn a large gorge, and the bold bluffs, which unfor- tunately are below the road-bed, have been called " New Hampshire Rocks," and the name may well suggest that the Granite State will soon cease to be regarded as the " Switzerland of America." The road continues on the north or Yuba side of the divide, between the waters of the Yuba and American Rivers ; and between Tamarack and Cisco, Red Spur and Trap Spur are passed by tunnels No. 4 and No. 3. Three and a half miles from Tamarack is Cisco, 182 miles from San Francisco, a day and night telegraph station, witli an elevation nf 5,939 feet. It was named after John J. Cisco, the sterling, assistant tr""urer of the United States, at New York City, during the late civil war. Cisco was for a year and a half the ter- minus of the road, and lively with business for the construction of the road, and for Nevada. It had a population of 7,000, and some dwellings erected at a cost of $5,000 ; large warehouses, and all the intensity of frontier life. After the re- moval of the terminus to Truckee, the deserted buildings were either taken down and removed or went fast to decay, until their destruction was hastened by a fire that left nothing for the morning sun to rise upon, but the freight house with a platform 1,000 feet long, standing alone amid the ashes and surrounding forests. From Cisco there is a beautiful view on the north, with Red Mountain in the distance. Just back of Red Mountain is the Old Man Mountain, but hid from view until the train de- scends a few miles farther. To detect in this any sharp or remote outline of the human profile, wrought in colossal propor- tion by the hand that moulded and chiseled the infinite shapes of nature, is probably beyond the keenness of any Yankee. Leaving Cisco, the railroad continues on the north side of the divide, with the canons of the many streams that form the Yuba on the right, and a deep valley near by through hard por- phyry, passing Black Butte on the left, crossing Butte Canon, around Hopkins' Bluffs and Mil- ler's Bluffs, eight and a half miles to Emigrant Gap, 173 miles from San Fran- cisco, another day and night telegraph station, is almost one vertical mile above San Francisco, the altitude being 5,221 feet. Just before reaching this station, the Yuba turns abruptly to the north, and just west of the turning place, with an elevation barely perceptible to one rush- ing by, Bear River heads in a valley of the same name, clothed in summer with a delightful freen. At Emigrant Gap the divide is crossed y means of a tunnel, and the old Emigrant Road crossed the Gap here, and is crossed by the railroad, just a few rods west of the tunnel. Here the old emigrants let their wagons down the. steep mountain side by ropes, with which a turn or two were taken around the trees at tha Gap. How much better are iron rails than rug- ged rocks, and atmospheric brakes than treach- erous cords ! On the right wo have now the headwaters of the Bear River, but of the valley one can, have only a glimpse except by ascend- ing the rocks above the railroad. O:ico over tlio divide, there are on the left the headwaters of a branch of the North Fork of tlio American River, and the road follows Wilson's Ravine, and the valley of the same name is in. sight for sonio dis- tance. A number of little ravines may be noticed emptying in Wilson's, the largest of which, called "Sailor's," is crossed where the road doubles Lost Camp Spur, from whic 1 ! one may look across the ravine and see tunnel No. 1 on Grizzly Hill. Blue Canon 168 miles from San Francisco, at the crossing of which, 5. 2 miles from Emi- grant Gap, are the hotel, a store, a shipping point for six saw mills, and a day and night telo- graph station. The elevaiiou is now 4, 693 foot. The snow sheds are unfrequent and shorter, an 1 the traveler will become m jre interested in t!i3 scenery now growing most wonderfully, tr.itil it becomes the grandest on the line of the road across the Continent. A litlla mining is carrlj.l on in Blue Canon, but on too small a scale to interest a stranger. Blue Canon is the limit of the snow which remains during tlie winter. It is noted for the best water on the mountains water so esteemed by the railroad men that it i:3 carried to supply their shops at Rocklin and Sacramento. Flumes and ditches are almost constantly in sight. The canon grows deep so rapidly and seems to fall away from the railroad, so that one instinctively wonders how he is to get down so far. This portion of the railroad has the steepest grade on the whole line 116 feet to the mile. China Ranch. About two miles west of Bluo Canon, a side track i3 passed where the close-tilling Celestial gardened prior to and at the location of the road and the fact lingers in the name, China Ranche. Mountains may be seen as far as the eye can reach. After passing the ranche, there is a very deep cut through Prospect Hill, the name suggesting the loss of the passenger in the cut. On the west side of Prospect Hill is Little Blue Canon, where Shady Run, a pretty little creek, is seen on the left. It was so named by engineer Guppy at the time the road was located, in honor of the good camp- ing ground it afforded. Shady Run, 212 miles from San Fran- cisco, is a side track, but not even a flag-station, 4.7 miles from Blue Canon. Near it the railroad passes around Trail Spur, and, on the left is one of the finest views on the line of the road, the junction of Blue Canon Creek and the North Fork of the American River ; there the great chasm, worn by glaciers to a depth of about 2,000 feet, extending a mile to the junction of the South Branch, the precipitous sides narrow- ing to the water's edge and forbidding ascent even on foot, through the narrow gorge and mountain upon mountain, back toward the snow peaks left an hour and a half ago and east- ward for fifty or more miles, till they are min- gled in the eye as the stars of the milky way, add to the impressiveness of the v ; 3W which is en- chanced by its suddenness. Just west of Trail Spur, and after passing Serpentine Ravine, one may look down the Great American Canon into Green V alley and Giant's (Jap, beyond. The view is sublime, with the bright emerald green of the pastures ; the ter raced and rounded, black, gloomy forests, over- Alta 158 miles from San Francisco; 3,607 feet elevation. This is the first point reached by the west-bound traveler from which there are two passenger trains daily to San Francisco. The "Alta Paftsenger " leaves Alta every morn- ing at 7 :40, and connects at Roseville Junction with the Oregon Express, and reaches Sacra- mento at 11:10 A. M., and continues to San Francisco via the Western Pacific Railroad the old overland route through Stockton, Liver- more and Niles arriving at San Francisco at 5:35 P. M. This route is 49.88 miles longer tha:i the route via Benecia. Here are several stores and the center of considerable lumber trade. Its population does not exceed a hundred. It is a day telegraph station, 4.8 miles from Shady Run. At one time soap-root, a bulb, growing like the stub of a coarse, brown mohair switch, just emerging from the ground, was gathered by the Chinamen. It has strong alkaline properties, and is used for cashing and for genuine hair mattresses. It has become too scarce to be gath- ered here with profit by even the keen, moon- eyed Celestial. Below Alta we strike the slope of Bear Rir~- and on this water-shed we travel, winding amo. 249 hills, until we near Cape Horn. But only 1.9 miles from Alta, we arrive at Dutch Flat, 157 miles from San Francisco, our approach to which is heralded by the unmis- takable evidences of mining, seen in the up- turned face of the country. The water that came down in advance of the cars from Summit Valley and Kidd's Lakes is now utilized. It was gathered from the East Fork of the American River, from Monumental Canon and Wilson's Ravine, and carried in Bradley's ditch around Lost Camp Spur and emptied into Blue Canon, near Blue Canon Station, and taken up again at the station and carried by ditches and flumes to Fort Point, where the railroad crosses it, and soon after one of the spurs is tunneled in two places to find an easy grade, but it cannot descend safely as fast as the cars, and at Pros- pect Hill passes through a tunnel 100 feet above the railroad, and is then emptied into Canon Creek, from which it is again taken up and dis- tributed by flumes or great iron pipes to the mines we overlook at Dutch Flat and Gold Run. There are three separate ditches, the " Cedar Creek," an English company, bringing water from the American River; the "Miner's Mining and Ditch Company," with water from Bear River, and the " Yuba Ditch Company." The first two companies own and work mines, and the latter derives all its revenue from the sale of water. For hydraulic mining, this is one of the most important regions in the State. Dutch Flat, or German Level, has an altitude of 3,395 feet. It is an old town, the mining having begun in 1851. It was once more largely populated than now, yet it boasts 1,500 inhab- itants. It has a Methodist and a Congregational Church, and the finest school-house in the in- terior of the State. It has a tri-weekly stage to Nevada City, 16 miles, leaving every Monday, Wednesday and Friday morning. The time is three hours and the fare $3.00. The route passes through the towns of Little York, 2 1-2 miles, You Bet, 6 miles, and Red Dog, 8 miles from Dutch Flat 1/ie town is built at the head of Dutch Flat Canon, and is very irregular and hilly. It has good stores, hotels and restaurants, and an enterprising semi-weekly newspaper. Placer Mining. Where the earth-carrying gold could be easily dug, and water was of ready access, and the diggings were rich enough, the washing out was done by hand, and this form of gold hunting was called placer mining. It re- quired no capital except the simple tools and im- plements used in digging and washing, with food enough to keep one till some return from labor could be obtained. Several hundred million dollars value of gold were thus washed out of the surface soil of California in early years. Lit- tle ground remains that can be made to pay by this process, and it is almost a thing of the past. It naturally led, however, to hydraulic mining which is as flourishing as ever, and promises to continue so for many years. Placer miners came occasionally upon ground which, though carrying gold, was not rich enough to pay if worked by hand, but would pay handsomely when handled on a large scale. The device was soon adopted of providing flumes in place of cradles and rockers. Into these flumes a stream was turned and the earth shoveled in. Large quantities could thus be . washed as easily as small amounts had been before. The gold in each case, except that portion which was impalpably fine, and would even float on water, was detained by riffles on the bottom of the rocker, or the flume, and gathered up from time to time. It was found eventually that large banks sometimes hundreds of feet high, were rich enough in gold to pay for working, and the device was next adopted of directing a stream against them to wash them down. Stiff beds of cement have been found rich in gold, but too stiff to yield to any except a mighty force. Higher heads of water have been sought, until even 500 *3et of head have been employed, the usual range being from 50 feet to 300, and a force obtained which nothing can resist. Such a stream issuing from a six-inch nozzle, comes out as solid to the touch as ice, the toughest bed of cement crumbles "before it, and boulders weigh- ing tons are tos.^-d about as lightly as pebbles. A man struck by such a stream would never know what hurt him. The strongest iron pipe is required to caiyy the water to the nozzle, through which if is played. No hose can be made strong enough to bear the pressxire, and the directing of the stream to the point desired is effected by two iron jointed pipes, moving in planes at right angles to each other, and thus securing a sweep in every direction. The amount of the force exerted by such a stream as has been described, it is impossible to estimate except approximately, but 1,300 pounds to the inch is not too high. To provide the water re- quired where " hydraulicking " is done on a large scale, streams are brought long distances. The price for selling water is graduated by the size of the opening through which it is de- livered, usually under six inches pressure. Prac- tically it is found that there is in California, more gold than water, for there are many places rich in gold, which cannot be worked for lack of water. The season varies in length, according to the situation and the rain-fall, but nowhere is it pos- sible to work the whole year, and probably on an average the active season does not exceed seven or eight months. There is one feature connected with hydraulic mining which no one can contem- plate without regret. It leaves desolation be- hind it in the form of heaps of shapeless gravel and boulders, which must lie for ages before blos- soming again with verdure. One of the difficult 250 GIANT'S GAP, AMERICAN RIVER CANON. BY THOMAS MORAN. 251 problems in hydraulicking is to find room for the debris which the streams, used in washing down banks of earth, are constantly carrying along with them. The beds of streams have been filled up in some parts of the State so as to increase greatly the exposure of the cultivated regions be- low the mining districts to inundation and ruin. Legislation has been sought by the farmers to protect their interests, but. th effort-, was opposed by the miners and a dead-lock followed. Now one of the most engrossing questions in the politics of the State arises from the filling of the rivers and the destruction of the agricultu- ral lands by the debris from these hydraulic mines. A dam on the Feather River, near Marys- ville, was authorized by the Legislature, and after the expenditure of half a million dollars its success is questioned, and "slickem" con- tinues to muddy at least the political waters, muddiness which will strike the tourist as affecting all the mountain streams on the west slope of the Sierra Nevadas, is the result of this mining. Once the Sacramento River, the Feather and the American Rivers were clear as crystal, but the hunt for gold has made them like the Missouri River in high flood and even muddier, and they are not likely, while this generation and the next are on the stage of life, to resume their former clearness and purity. Gold Run, 204 miles from San Francisco, another -mining town in the famous Blue Lode. It is a day telegraph station, with an altitude of 3,220 feet. It has a population of 700, with a large number of stores, and several hotels. A mile west of Gold Run and to the right, across Bear River, may be seen You Bet, Red Dog, Little York, and other mining towns can be pointed out from the cars by those familiar with the country ; but Ophir will be seen by every one, looking out on the right-hand side. A farmer from Lancaster or Chester County, Pa., would not be impressed with the worth of the country ; but the lover of nature, who does not tire of the variety in the mountain scenery, will yet feel new interest in the signs of speed- ily emerging into an open and cultivated coun- try. Over the Bear River Canon, on the right, may be 'raced the thin outline of the basin of the Sacramento River, and, in a favorable atmos- phere, the Coast Range beyond is clearly visible. Once, all the ravines in this vicinity around it, swarmed with miners. " They went to the land of Ophir for gold." The placer mines were very rich, and covered with only from one to three feet of surface. The days are long past, but every pioneer has fresh recollec- tions of them. Between Gold Run and Cape Horn Mills the road crosses Secret Town Ravine. There was formerly a station at this point. The high embankment covers a curved trestle work 1.100 feet long. The ravine was named from its early history, to mark the efforts of a company of miners to conceal their rich discoveries. About a mile and a half below Secret Town, there is a pretty view, where the railroad is near the edge of the side hill, and the deep ravine falls rapidly away to the American River. Moonlight Scenery of tJie Sierras. Travelers going westward have often the pleas- ure of a delightful ride by moonlight across the famous scenes of the Sierras. Just at evening, when the sun casts its last glorious rays across the mountains, and lights up the peaks and snowy summits with splendor the train arrives at Cape Horn, and the thrill of interest of jthe excited tourist, will never be forgotten. Take a good look from the point, westward down the grand canon of the American River. Step toward the edge of the cut, and look down the fearful precipice, which is often broken ere it reaches the lowest descent of 2,000 feet. It is a scene more famous in railroad pleasure travel, than any yet known. A few miles beyond, near Shady Run, thera suddenly opens on the gaze of the expectant traveler, just before the sunlight has quite disappeared, and the evening shades come on, the vision of The Great, American Canon, by far the finest canon of the entire Pacific Railroad. The suddenness of approach, and the grandeur of scene are so overpowering, that no pen, pic- ture or language can give to it adequate descrip- tion. Two thousand feet below, flow the quiet waters of the Americ in River. Westward is seen the chasm, where height and peak and summit hang loftily over the little vale. South- ward is a sea, yea an ocean of mountains and the observer, seemingly upon the same level, is bewildered at the immensity of Nature's lavish display of mountain wonders; night comes on, and the heights catch the soft light of the moon, as it shines and twinkles across and among the tops of the pines, lighting up the open canons, and rendering still more deep the contrast with the shady glens the snow fields, cold, white and chilling, with ever changing turns of the rail- road, make the evening ride, beyond a doubt, the most pleasurable that ever falls to the lot of the sight-seer. The tourist must stay up long see for yourself all the beauties of the Sierras, while there is the least possible light Emigrant Gap, Summit, Donner Lake, Blue Canon all are delightful, and the lover of scene pleasures must not forsake his window or the platform, till the midnight hour finds him at Truckee. Trav- elers eastward will bear in mind that from Cape Horn to Summit, the best scenes are on south side of the- train, the American River Canon on the right hand, or south side, and the Bear and the Yuba River Valleys on the north side ; but 252 server must find his pleasures on the north, until he reaches Truckee. East of Truckee the scene is again renewed, and the river and best views are mainly on the south. Secret Town and Secret Town Ravine. There is a side track, but it is not now a station. A Chinese Idea, of Poker. " What's usee play poker ?" remarked an almond-eyed denizen of Tucson, Nev. "Me hold four klings and a lace; Melican man hold all same time four laces and a kling; whole week washee gone likee woodbine." Cape Horn Mills is a side track, at which the overland trains will not stop for pas- sengers. It is 5.9 miles from Gold Run, and not far from Cape Horn. Be- fore the train " doubles "the point or Cape, Robber's Ravine will be seen on the left, deepen- ing into the great ca.non of the American River. Cape Horn. Around t h e Cape, the rail- road clings to the precipitous bluff at a point nearly 2,000 feet above the river and far below the sum- mit, and where the first foot-hold for the daring workman on the narrowledge was gained by men who were let down with ropes from the summit. When the Cape is rounded, Rice's Ravine will be on the left, and Colfax seen on the opposite side. At the head of Rice's Ravine the railroad crosses by trestle-work 1 13 feet high and 878 feet long, on the summit of the divide between Long's Ravine and Rice's Ravine the waters from Long's going first northward to the Bear River, h-UBET '1 and those in Rice's Ravine southward into the American. At the foot of the trestle-work, and climbing up both ravines to Colfax, its terminus, on a grade of 113 feet to the mile, may be seen the narrow gauge railroad just opened to Grass Valley and Nevada City the former 16.74 and the latter 22 1-2 miles from Colfax. At the bottom of the deep gorge around Cape Horn, and on the mountain side across the stu- pendous chasm, may be seen the stage road to Iowa Hill, a mining town across the river. The railroad here is an achievement of engineering F|| skill, genius and daring on the part of its bold projectors, t r i - umpiring over natural wonders and obstacles of which ever to be proud. The view is magnifi- cent. No one 'passing can af- ford to miss it, or he will die poorer and worse for the loss. Un- less it be the view at Giant's Gap, there is no railroad view to surpass it. The wonderful chasm is almost fright- ful to behold. The houses and even fields in the valley beneath are little things, and thebut- tresses to t h e ueep water-gate are so enormous that large canons are as indistinct as the lines of masonry, and as tho defying mountains open wild galleries back among the higher peaks, the mountain sculpture grows grander and grander until the rugged, but dimly qfttlined forms stretch a f ay in a vast sea of pine, peiik and snow, " Though inland l'm;i)Ye be." The road-bed, to one looklhg down is appar- 53 ently scooped out of perpendicular rock and overhanging the great abyss ; and, .to one looking up, is like a long skein of gray thread wound around the cliff. Colfax and the descending railroad, and the less pretentious narrow gauge toiling up to meet each other, are clearly seen across Rice's Ravine. S/eillful Cookery. Americans who dine with the Chinese, are surprised at the perfection to which they carry their cooking. During a recent Chinese banquet in San Francisco, an orange was laid at the plate of each guest. The orange itself seemed like any. other orange, but on being cut open, was found to contain within the rind five kinds of delicate jellies. One was at first puzzled to explain how the jellies got in, and giving up that train of reflection, was in a worse quandary to know how the pulpy part of the orange got out. Colored eggs were also served, in the inside of which were found nuts, jellies, meats and confectionery. When one of the Americans present, asked the interpreter to explain this legerdemain of cookery, he expanded his mouth in a hearty laugh, and shook his head and said, " Melican man heap smart ; why he not Jind him out ? " Coifax 144 miles from San Francisco. It was named in honor of the late Vice-President, has an altitude of 2,422 feet, and is a day tele- grapli station. The old settlement was Illinois- town, but with the opening of the station, the old town was "finished." Colfax has a popu- lation of 1,000, two churches Methodist Epis- copal and Congregational three hotels and stores to indicate that it is the center of trade for a population of several thousand. A daily stage runs to Forest Hill, eight miles distant, on the south side of the American River. NEVADA COUNTY NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD. JOHN C. COLEMAN, President, - Grass Valley. J. W. SIGOUBNEY, Vice-President, EDWABP COLEMAN, Treasurer, - " JOHN F. KIDDEK, Gjbn'l Supt., - " GEORGE FLETCHEK$3ecretary - " This road is of t$iree feet gauge, 22 j miles long, and extends toVNevada City. It is a series of almost continuous curves, steep grades, high bridges and charming scenery. From Colfax the road descends at the rate of 121 feet to the mile toward Cape Horn, and passes tinder the high bridge of the Central Pacific, over the ravine where the waters of the Bear and American rivers divide. Following toward Bear river, a side track is reached^ for the town of You Bet, several miles distant, and the river soon crosses at its junction with .Greenhorn Creek, and at a point 346 feet below Colfax. The Howe truss bridge is 750 feet long and 97 feet high. The road follows the Greenhorn, but the creek and deep chasm are soon lost sight of for three miles, when they reappear, and the track is only 1,500 feet distant from the point where they were lost sight of. After gaining* elevation by this curv- ing, the route winds over the high mountain ridges to its summit at an altitude of 2,851 feet. Storms, Buena Vista and Kress Summit and Union Hill are stations between Colfax and Grass Valley, but of no general importance. From the summit to Grass Valley the maxi- mum grade (descending) of 121 feet is again reached. The most charming views are the Canon of the Amercan River and Cape Horn, both on the right just after leaving Colfax, and the valleys of the Bear and Greenhorn. Com- pared with these inspiring canons, the scenery from the Summit to Nevada City is quite tame, yet there is none of it that is not picturesque and interesting. All along the route traversing this region of this great country, the most wonderful, the grandest and the most beautiful views of natu- ral scenery are to be had. What magic is this to enable a traveler to sit in a chair suitable for a room in a palace; have his meals brought to him of the rarest of dainties, if he so chooses; and all the while he is borne as swift as the flight of a bird, over ridges inaccessible to the toiling carriages of old, over the summits of mountains and down again to the level of valleys ! performing in five days what not long ago it took months to do. Opening be- fore the tourist, who sits at his spacious win- dow in the sumptuous car, scenes of beauty, grandeur and magnificence, perhaps never dreamed of by him before, coming and passing like thoughts in a dream. What would be the sensations of one of our ancestors were he to be brought back again to the life he lived and. placed by the side of our tourist ? Grass Valley is 16.74 miles from Colfax, and has a population of 6,500. It is the center of the best gold quartz mining region of the State, and has the largest Protestant Church (Methodist Episcopal) in the Sierra Mountains. It has also a Congregational, Roman Catholic, Episcopal and Christian or Campbellite Church. Until recently, it had two banks, but at present has none. It is the center of large lumber, fruit and mining interests, has a daily paper, the Union, and one weekly, the Foothill Tidings. Stages leave Grass Valley, daily, for Marys- ville on the Oregon division of the Central Pacific Railroad. Nevada City, five miles from Grass Valley, but nearly seven by railroad, is the county to~wn of Nevada County, has a population of 4,500, and is a prosperous town. The people of Truckee are compelled to at- tend court in this city. It is in the same mining region as Grass Valley, and was for many years the largest town in the mining regions. From an area of six miles, not less than $100,000,000 CAPE HORN. 1* View looking down the American River. 2. View of Cap* Horn and American Rirr Canon, looking /So*. 255 have been taken, and $2,000,000 are now pro- duced annually. Downieville, Sierraville, Lake City, BioomfielJ. Moore's Flat and Eureka South. The Idaho Mina near Grass Valley, and close to the railroad track, has paid its one hundred and fortieth monthly dividend, varying from $5 to $25. Many other mines are rich and profitable, and in no section of tha Pacific Coast has the prosperity of this industry been more uniform. Grass Valley and Nevada City are alike in having irregular streets, streets laid out to suit the mines. Nevada haa two papers, the Daily Transcript and the tri-waekly Gaaelte. Stages leave Nevada daily for fian Juau North (the center of extensive hydiaulic mining), Comptonville, Forest City . Leaving Colfax, the tourist may become more interested in the forms of vegetation and will notice the manzani'a, common to ull the foot- hills of California. It will be seen toward the Geysers and the Yosemite of mujjh larger (growth. It is a queer bush, and like the madroaa tree it does not shed its leaf, bat sheds its bark. Its small, red berry ripens in the f;ill and is gathered and eaten by the Indians. Crooked canes made from its wood are much esteemed. The bark is very deli cate until var- nished and dried, and great care should be l&.ken in transporting them when first cut. The foothills are partly covered with chapar- ral, consisting mostly of a low evergreen oak, which, in early days, afforded secure hiding places for Mexican robbers, and now accommo- dates with cheap lodgings, many a " road agent" when supplied from Wells, Fargo & Company's treasure boxes. The white blossoms of the ceanothus fill the air with fragrance in April and May. On the right, the valley of the Sacramento is coming fastsr into sight, and the Coast Range growing mora distinct. The next station, 5. 1 miles west of Colfax, is Netv England Mills, at the west end of a plateau where there is no grade for three miles. Lumbering in the vicinity has declined, and the trains do not stop. The roadway continues on the south side of the divide between the Bear and American rivers, but this has so widened that the cars seem to be winding around among small hills far away from either river. Water taken from Bear River, near Colfax, is quite near the railroad, on the right, for a num-. ber of miles, and will be seen crossing over at Clipper Gap. Below New England Mills there is an opening called George's Gap, named from an early resi- dent, George Giesendorfer, and farther west is Star House Gap, called from an old hotel; then signs of farming are again seen in Bahney's Ranche, at the foot of Bahney's Hill, and Wild- Cat Ranche farther west, where Wild-Cat Sum- mit is crossed by a tunnel 693 feet long, and Clipper Ravine is then found on the left-hand side. This tunnel was made in 1873, to straighten the road, and the ends are built of solid ma- sonry. Across Clipper Gap Ravine, the stage road from Auburn to Georgetown may be seen winding up the mountain side. About half-way between New England Mills and Clipper Gap, there is a side track and day telegraph station, called Applegates, for the run- ning of trains and a point for shipping lime; but passenger trains run, without stopping, from Colfax IX 1-3 miles, to Clipper Gap 133 miles from San Fran- cisco. The few buildings have a store and a hotel among them. It was the terminus of the road for three or four months, and then a lively place. Hare and mountain quail abound in these foothills. The latter roost, not on the ground, but in trees, never utter the " Bob White," so familiar to sportsmen, and fly swifter than the Eastern quail. Auburn 126 miles from San Francisco, is a day telegraph station, 6.6 miles from Clipper Gap, with an elevation of 1,360 feet. From Auburn Station a daily stage runs 22 miles to Forest Hill on arrival of the train from the east, fare $4.00, and to Michigan Bluffs, 30 miles, fare $6.00, and another runs daily, except Sunday, to Greenwood, 16 miles, fare $2.50, and Georgetown, 21 miles, fare $3.00, Pilot Hill, 11 miles, fare $1.50, Coloma, 21 miles, fare $2.50, and Placerville, 32 miles, fare $4.00. Alabaster Cave on the route of the latter, six miles from Auburn, is an opening in a limestone formation, and the seat of the kilns in which the best lime of California is made. What little beautv the cave once possessed has been invaded, and it has now no attraction for the tourist. The town of Auburn proper is situated below the station. It has a population of 1,000, two churches, good schools, fine orchards, and is the county-seat of Placer County. It is one of the oldest towns in the State. It has three hotels, one of which is the Railroad House. Many of its buildings are constructed of brick or stone, and grapes are extensively grown in the vicinity, and with great success. The Placer Herald is a weekly Democratic paper, and the Argus, a weekly Republican paper. From the point where the locomotive stands the Sacramento River can be seen on the left, as also from other points as the train continues westward. Soon after leaving the station, the railroad crosses Dutch Ravine, at the head of which is Bloomer Cut, where the train passes through an interesting conglomerate, showing a well-exposed stratum of boulders, sand and coarse gravel. The trestle work formerly at Newcastle Gap Bridge, 528 feet long and 6Q feet high, has been filled with earth. 256 A VISION OF THE GOLDEN COUNTRY. BY THOMAS MORAN. 25? As the train nears Newcastle, the Marysville Buttes, rough, ragged peaks, are easily discerned. They are about 12 miles above the city of Marysville, and the town near the railroad, but clinging to a side hill opposite, is the decayed town of Ophir. From the high embankments, before reaching and also after passing Newcastle, there are hue panoramas of the Sacramento Valley, on both the right hand and the left. Mount Diablo may be seen on the left Newcastle, 121 miles from Sari Francisco, is a day tele- graph station, five miles from Auburn, 956 feet above the sea. It has a hotel and several stores, every man in the place a Good Templar, and some promising quartz mines in the vicinity. It was named after an old resident and hotel-keep- er called Castle. An earnest of what may be seen in the lovely valley, that has such unlimited extent before the traveler, may be seen in a flour- ishing orange tree, growing in the open air, in a garden only a few yards from the railroad track. Fruit orchards are numerous and extensive these foot-hills being one of the best sections of the State for growing berries, apples, cherries, peaches and figs. Almost every one will have noticed the poison oak or poison ivy, and unless one knows that he cannot be affected by it, he should avoid an intimate acquaintance. Below Newcastle about a mile, the railroad leaves Dutch Ravine and enters Antelope Ravine, by which it descends to the plain. Penrhyn is a side track near a valuable granite quarry. The rock is susceptible of a high polish probably unsurpassed in the State, and was used for building tiie diy dock of the U. S. Navy Yard, at Mare Island, and other pub- lic buildings. In summer, 200 men are employed in the quarries. Jfmo, 115 miles from San Francisco, is about where the limit of the pines is found, in a coun- try full of huge boulders, with quarries of gran- ite, slightly soft- er than that of Penryn. Roclflin is 112 miles from San Francisco, a day and night telegraph sta- tion, with 249 feet of elevation, and is the point at which east- bound trains take an extra locomotive to ascend the mountain. The, roundhouse of the railroad com- pany, with 28 stalls, situated here is a most substantial structure, made from the granite quarries near the station. From these quar* ries, many of the streets of San Francisco are paved, pub- lic and private buildings erect- ed, and here were cut the im- mense blocks used for the pavements of the BLOOMER our. Palace Hotel. Junction is 108 miles from San Francisco. It is a day telegraph station, and 163 feet above the sea. The town is called Roseville, in honoi of the belle of the country who joined an excur- sion here during the early history of the road, and will probably be known as Roseville Junc- tion. Here the Oregon division of the Central Pa- cific leaves the main line. On the left may be seen the abandoned grade of a road that was built to this point from Folsom on the American 258 PACIFIC F0&&/SF. River. By this road, Lincoln, Wheatland, Ma- rysville, Chico, Tehama, Red Bluff, Redding, and intermediate points are reached. One hundred fifty-one and a half miles have been built from the junction northward. Passengers going north may use their tickets to San Francisco for pas- sage over this division, and at Redding take stage for Portland, Or. See page 3UO for full description of Railroad. Antelope, a side track at which passenger trains do not stop, and 6.6 miles farther on, a place of about equal importanc3 called Arcade. The soil is light, much of it grav- elly, but it produces considerable grass, and an abundance of wild flowers. Prominent among the latter are the Lupin and the Eschscholtzia, or California Poppy. The long fence will inter- est the Eastern farmer, for here is a specimen of a Mexican grant. It is the Norris Ranche, now owned by Messrs. Haggin, Tevis and others, and "learly ten miles long. When California was first settled, these plains were covered with tall, wild oats, sometimes concealing the horseback rider, and wild oats are now seen along the side of the track. No stop is made, except for passing trains, until the American River bridge is reached. About four miles from Sacramento we reach the American River. It has none of the loveli- ness that charmed us .when we saw it winding along the mountains. The whole river-bed has filled up, and in summer, when the water is al- most wholly diverted to mining camps or for irrigation, it seems to be rather a swamp. It is approached by a long and high trestle work. After crossing the bridge, on the right, you will notice some thrifty vineyards and productive Chinese gardens in the rich deposits of the river. On the left you will obtain a fine view of the State Capitol ; also you get a fine view of the grounds of the State Agricultural Society. Its speed-track, a mile in length, is unexcelled. Its advantages, including the climate of the State, make it the best training track in the United States. It was here that Occident trot- ted in 2.1 G 34, and is said to have made a record of 2.15 1-4 in a private trial. The grand stand was erected at a cost of $15,000. Should you pass thi-ough the city in Septem- ber or October, do not fail to see for yourself the Agricultural Park and the Pavilion, and test the marvellous stories about the beets and the pump- kins, and secure some of the beautiful and de- licious fruit that is grown in the foot hills. On the left you will also see the hospital of the Central Pacific Railroad. It contains all modern improvements for lighting, heating, ven- tilation and drainage, and a library of 1,200 volumes. It can accommodate 200 patients, and cost the company $05,000. Fifty cents a month is deducted from the pay of all employes for maintaining the institution. No other railroad has made such generous provision for its faith ful employes. Railroad Works North of the city there was a sheet of water known as " Sutter's Lake " and " The Slough," and a succession of high knolls. The lake was granted to the city by the Stat3, and to the railroad company by the city. Its stagnant waters have given place, at great cost, to most important industries. The high knolls have been levelled, and are also owned, in part, by the railroad company. Not less than fifty acres of land are thus made useful for side tracks and fruitful in manufactures. Six and a half acres of it are covered by the railroad shops. Twelve hum/red men are constantly employed. Thesa are the chief shops of the railroad. Some you saw at Ogden, Terrace, Cariin, Wadsworth, Truckee and Rocklin, and you will find others n.t Lnthrop and Oakland Point, and at Tulare and Caliente on the Visalia Divis- ion. At Oakland Point several hundred men are employed. All these shops and those of the California Pacific Road at Vallejo center here. These are the largest and best shops west of the Mississippi River, and form the most extensive manufacturing industry of the city. The best locomotives, and the most elegant and comfortable passenger cars on the coast are built, and a large portion of the repairs for the whole road is done here. All the castings of iron and brass, and every fitting of freight and passenger cars, except the goods used in upholstering, is here produced ; boilers for steamers put up, the heaviest engine shafts forged, telegraph instru- ments made, silver plating done, and 12,000 car wheels made every month. All the latest and best labor-saving tools and machinery used in wood, iron and brass work can here be seen in operation. The capacity of the shops is six box-freight, and six flat cars per day, and two passenger, and one sleeping car per month. Twelve years ago, the work of the company at this point, was all done in a little wooden building 24 by 100 feet, and with less men than there are now build- ings or departments. Last year a million and a half dollars was paid out for labor in these shops alone, and 4,000 tons of iron consumed. Some of the buildings, like the roundhouse, are of brick. This has 29 pits each 60 feet long, with a circumference of 600 feet. Some of the buildings have roofs or sides of corrugated iron. Seven large under-ground tanks, 1,600 gallons each, are used for oil and 2,000 gallons of coal oil, and 400 of sperm con- sumed every month. In connection with the shops, is a regularly organized and well-equipped fire-brigade, and in two minutes the water of two steam fire-engines can be directed to any point in the buildings. Soon a rolling mill will be erected, and upon a location but lately pestilential. The whole 260 coast \vill be laid under further tribute to these shops for the facilities of travel and commerce. Just before entering the depot you will see the Sacramento River on the right. The announcement of " Sacramento " will be exceedingly welcome to every through pass- enger, for it will leave but little more journeying to be accomplished. The trains stop for break- fast going west, and supper going east. The price of each meal is seventy-five cents> or " six ^//j-,"but no better meals are served between New York and Omaha. Trains stop twenty-five minutes. The depot is the finest in California, excepting that at Oakland wharf, and is worthy of the road and State. It is four hundred and sixteen feet long and seventy wide, and has another adjoining, one hundred and sixty feet long by thirty-five feet wide. It is largely of iron and glass, and being open at the sides is peculiarly adapted to the warm climate of the region. At this point passengers have choice of four routes to San Francisco. (1) The oldest the Sacramento River on which a boat runs daily leaving usually in the morning, but with irreg- ular hours. It is not a popular route. (2) There is the old Overland Route via Stockton and Livermore Pass and JNiles. This route is 139. 67 miles long. Passengers for San Jose can save fare by taking this route and changing cars at Niles, and wUl reach San Jose at 4:50 p. M. A ticket at San Francisco is good also to San Jose by this route. For this route more particularly see page (3) There is the route via Stock- ton and Martinez avoiding the heavy grade of the Livermore Pass but making the distance 151.19 miles. This is the same as route No. 2 as far as to Tracy Junction, and from Tracy it is ider*'oal with the Overland Route of the Southern Pacific. (4) The popular route is that Overland train from Ogden, crossing the Sacra- mento River at Sacramento and running over the California Pacific, the Northern Railway and the San Pablo and Tulare Railroad, all leased and operated by the Central Pacific. By this route the distance to San Francisco is only 89. 79 miles. Of course, the weary traveler will take this last-named route, but before proceeding he may cast his eye around Sacramento the capital of California. There are " free busses" to the Arcade, Golden Eagle, Capitol, Grand or Orleans, all first-class, comfortable and well patronized ; or the street- cars will convey you near any one of these. The " Western " is also a good and popular house. The population of the city is about 25,000. The streets are regularly laid out, and beginning at the river or depot, with Front or First, are numbered to Thirty-first, and the cross streets are lettered, beginning with A on the north side of the city. The stores are chiefly of brick, and residences of wood. The broad streets are shaded by trees of heavy foliage, the elm, wal- nut, poplar and sycamore prevailing, and in sum- mer are almost embowered by 'these walls of verdure, that are ready to combat the spread of fires. It is a city of beautiful homes. Lovely cottages are surrounded by flowers, fruits and vines, while some of the most elegant mansions in the State are in the midst of grassy lawns or gardens filled with the rarest flowers. The orange, fig, lime and palrn flourish, and the air is often laden with nature's choice perfumes. It is lighted with gas, and has water from the Sacra- mento River, supplied by the Holly system. Two million gallons are pumped up daily. The climate is warm in summer, but the heat is tempered by the sea breeze which ascends the river, and the nights are always pleasantly cool. Notwithstanding its swampy surroundings and the luxuriance of its semi-tropical vegeta- tion, statistics establish the fact that it is one of the healthiest cities in the State. Among the more prominent buildings are tha Court-house, Odd Fellows', Masonic, Good Tem- plars' and Pioneer Halls ; the Christian Brothers' College, the Churches, Schools and the Capitol. The grammar school building is a credit to the educational structures of the State, and attracts attention from visitors second only to the Capitol. The Pioneers are an association of Califor- nians who arrived prior to January, 1850. Their hall has an antiquarian value especially in a very accurate register of important events extend- ing back to A. D. 1650. "Another association, the Sons of the Pioneers, will become the heirs of these valuable archives, and perpetuate the association. The annual business of the city exceeds twenty-seven muhon dollars. The State Cajtitof.. This is the most attractive object to visitors. It. cost nearly $2,500,000. It stands at the west and thrice ter- raced end of a beautiful park of eight blocks, extending from L to N street, and from Tenth to Fourteenth street. Back of the Capitol, but within the limits of the park and its beautiful landscape gardening, are the State Printing Office and the State Armory. The main entrance to the Capitol is opposite M street. The edifice was modeled after the old Capitol at Washington and has the same massiveuess, combined with admirable propor- tions, and rare architectural perfection and beauty. Its front is 320 feet and height 80 feet, above which the lofty dome rises to 220 IVft, and is then surmounted by the Temple of Liberty, and Powers' bronze statue of California. The lower story is < granite, the other two of brick. Ascending by granite steps, which extend 80 feet across the front, we reach the portico with ten massive columns. Passing through this, we stand in the lofty rotunda, 72 feet in diameter. 261 The chambers and galleries are finished and fur- nished in richness and elegance befitting the Golden State. The doors are of walnut and California laurel, massive and elegant. The State library has 35,000 volumes. The great dome is of iron, supported by 24 fluted Corin- thian columns and 24 pilasters. Rising above this is a smaller dome supported by 12 fluted Corinthian pillars. The beauty of the whole is equaled in but few of the public buildings in the country, and the California laurel with its high polish adds no little to the. charm. The steps leading to the top of the outer dome are easy, except for persons of delicate health, and the view to be gained on a clear day, will amply repay any exertion. The extended landscape is incomparably lovely. You are in the center of the great Sacramento Valley, nearly 450 miles long by 40 wide, where fertile soil and pleasant clime have contributed to make one of the loveliest pictures to be seen from any capitol in the world. Just beneath lies a city with many beautiful :'esidences, half concealed in the luxuriant ver- dure of semi-tropical trees. Lovely gardens enlarged into highly cultivated farms then, wide extended plains, on which feed thousands of cactle and sheep, groves of evergreen oak, long, winding rivers, and landlocked bays, white with the sails of commerce, and along the east- ern horizon stretch the rugged Sierras, with their lines of arid foot hills, perpetual verdure, and snowy summits, shining like white sum- mer clouds in a clear blue sky. On the west the Coast Range limits the vision with its indistinct and hazy lines, out of which the round top of Mount Diablo is quite dis- tinct. Southward, the eye takes in the valley of the San Joaquin, (pronounced, Wah-keen), with its rapidly populating plains. In 1850, a fire left only on ? house standing, where are now 21 of the principal business blocks, and in 1854, a second fire nearly de- stroyed the city, after which lumber was scarce at $500 a thousand. In the winter of 1851-2, a flood covered the whole city, and led to the construction of levees, which were afterward enlarged. Part of tlie city, too, was raised above high-water mark. Ten years later a flood occurred, with from eight to ten feet of water in all the parts of the city not raised, and flooding the first stories of all houses and stores. In the winter of 1875-6, the river was three inches higher than ever be- fore known, yet the city was perfectly safe. As a distributing point, the commercial ad- vantages of the city are second only to San Francisco. Freight by the Overland route is here started north or south. Merchants of Ne- vada, Northern California and Utah secure their freight from this point with less charges and greater despatch than from San Francisco, and "all shipments to the mountains or beyond, must go through this gate. Fruit from the foot hills, of choicer flavor than that grown in the warmer valleys, and vegetables, enormous and abundant, from the rich alluvial soil of the rivers, concen- trate here to supply the dwellers from the Sierras eastward. During the summer of 1875 the aver- age weekly shipment, of fruit alone, to the East, was 400 tons. The industries that already give the city prominence, and not directly connected with the railroad, are more than can be mentioned. Among them are the Capital Woolen Mills, sev- eral carriage, wagon and furniture factories, several flouring-mills, one of which, the Pioneer, is the largest in the State, with capacity for pro- ducing 600 barrels of flour and 950 tons of barley per day, boiler, general iron and brass works. Wineries are permanently established and pro- ductive. Beet Siifffir is manufactured about three miles from the city. The works were erected at a cost of f 275,000, and 1,450 acres of land are in use for the factory. Ninety tons of beets can be used, per day, yielding about 13 1-2 per cent, of saccharine matter, while the refuse is mixed with other feed and used to fatten cattle. This promises to become one of the chief in- dustries of California, and the only occasion where the descriptive powers of Mr. Nordhoff seem to have failed him, was in the presence of the machinery of the Johnson process used in this manufacture. The sugar-beet does not grow to enormous size, but the mangel-wurzel continues to grow, summer and winter, until it attains enormous size. Southern California is said to have pro- duced one of 1,100 pounds, and a farmer of So- noma County, had one (not considering the top), three feet above the ground. We believe he fenced around it, lest a cow should get inside of i it and eat out the heart. The city has a paid Fire Department, and five newspapers the Daily and Weekly ~ Record- Union, the Daily and Weekly Bee, The Sacramento Valley Agriculturalist (weekly), Sacramento Jour- nal (German tri-weekly), and The Weekly Res- cue, the organ of the I. O. G. T. Sacramento is intimately connected with all parts of the State and is advantageously situated for manufactures and for wholesale trade. Mer- chants in Nevada find it a day or two nearer than San Francisco. The river affords cheap transportation to Northern California, and to and from San Francisco. The California Pacific and Northern Railway extend their arms to the west side of the Sacramento Valley and even to Napa and Lake Counties, and the Oregon Division of the California Pacific controls the trade to Southern Oregon. The Sacramento Valley Rail- road, runs to Folsom, controling trade as far as Placerville. By the Western Pacific, connection REPRESENTATIVE MEN OF CALIFORNIA. 1. Senator Sargent. 2. R. B. Woodward. 3.- Senator Sharon, (Nevada.) 4. D. O. Mills. f !...... SI Vl..,.,l ft W f^ l.'.,l^(,,l, T \/l Q T all. an. U .,, I,-,. I,. 263 is made at Lathrop with the San Joaquin Valley and the Southern Pacific. Sacramento has three daily trains to San Fran- cisco. (1) The Overland leaving at 7:20 A. M. (2) The Alta Passenger and Oregon train leaving at 11:30 vi