II .USB LIBKAKI THE R.M.8. "ORANTCLLT CASTLF/' 3489 TONF, IN DARTMOUTH HARBOCR. Pages; MEN, MINES AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA BY LORD RANDOLPH S. CHURCHILL, M.P. NEW EDITION LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY Limited t. gunsUn'9 iwtst FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET, E.G. 1895 PEE FACE. AT the request of the publishers, I have, against my own judgment, consented to revise the letters from South Africa which I wrote to The Daily Graphic, in 1891, with a view to their publication in the form of a book. The critics of literary and epistolary efforts, who daily inform the public through the columns of the Press, pronounced with tolerable unanimity, that these letters of mine were devoid of merit and unworthy of perusal. To this judg- ment I ought to have bowed, but then, on the other hand, the proprietors of The Daily Graphic, who, for the purposes of these letters, were my employers and who occupied the most favourable position for the formation of a practical opinion as to whether these letters did or did not displease the public, expressed to me very definitely and without qualification their satisfaction with the productions of which I was the author, but for which they were mainly responsible. A question of difficulty arises. Either the public read the letters, or it did not read them. If the public did not read the letters, then the proprietors of The Daily Graphic would have been dissatisfied at the iv PREFACE results of an unremunerative outlay. But these gentlemen were not dissatisfied; therefore the public did read the letters. But the public only reads what it approves of, or what pleases it. Then I am led to a strange and terrible conclusion. Either the critics who condemned the letters were wrong, or, worse still, the public does not care twopence what the judgment of the critics may be. It is on the off-chance that this state of things, deduced by argument, may be the actual state of things that I again submit these letters to the public in another form. In the course of succeed- ing years many men and women will leave our shores to take up their abode in South Africa. Possibly some of these emigrants may glean from the following pages some information not alto- gether valueless as to the country, its people, its attractions, its modes of life and of travel. More- over, of that large number of home-dwelling persons who follow with affection the fortunes of a great and growing colony in South Africa there may perchance be some whose interest therein may be quickened and sustained by the perusal of the experiences, the thoughts of an independent, unprejudiced wayfarer. In either case no harm is done ; even a few grains of good may be produced. Beyond mere verbal corrections and such other corrections as were necessary for the transposition of letters to a newspaper into chapters of a book, I have changed nothing of what I originally wrote, with the two following exceptions. Attempts at PREFACE. v humour, or what is called " chaff," when taken seriously are failures so disastrous that they cannot be too quickly suppressed. Under this category come my allusions to the cook on board the Gran- tully Castle and my hazardous speculation on the origin of the female sex. This latter speculation, lightly turned off in a sentence, more for the pur- pose of an elegant termination to a letter than for the purpose of arousing controversy, was received so solemnly by grave and serious journals such as The Spectator and The Speaker, that they actually compared my ideas (unfavourably for me, I admit) with those of the illustrious Darwin. By the erasure of the guilty sentence alluded to from the text of these pages, I have done my utmost to withdraw from a competition so dangerous to myself. I would add that the opinions which I expressed on the Dutch population of the Transvaal were intended by me to be exclusively confined to that population. Some imagined that those opinions were intended to apply generally to the Dutch in South Africa. But such wide and indiscriminate censure was far from my mind. The Dutch settlers in Cape Colony are as worthy of praise as their relatives, the Transvaal Boers, are of blame. The former, loyal, thrifty, industrious, hospitable, liberal, are and will, I trust, ever remain the back- bone of our great colony at the Cape of Good Hope. That their numbers may increase, their influence develop, their possessions and their wealth expand, is my earnest hope, nor is it im- vi PREFACE. probable that as time goes on the Dutch subjects of the Queen may communicate, by example and by intercourse, some of their excellent qualities to their backward brethren in the Transvaal. With these brief remarks, I submit to an indulgent public a narrative of a travel every hour of which was to me most enjoyable, a travel which I can confidently recommend to all who are desirous, and who are so fortunately situated as to be able, to make excursions for their pleasure into new parts of the world. RANDOLPH S. CHURCHILL. 2, Connaught Place, W., March 9^, 1892. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND. PAGB Departure from Paddington Station Reasons for the journey The composition of the party Arrival at Dartmouth The Grantully Castle Lisbon: the Zoological Gardens Madeira Invitation from Mr. Bfiiei-S an ford A sub-tropical garden Farewell to Madeira Shoals of flying fish From breakfast to bedtime on board ship Athletic sports at sea Fire ! Cape Town .... 1 CHAPTER II. CAPE COLONY. Scenery and climate of Cape Town Public Buildings The Government House, Natural History Museum, and Public Library Adderley Street The sea pros- pect from Cape Town Rivalry of Port Elizabeth The inhabitants and environs of Cape Town Dutch and English in the colony Mr. Cecil Rhodes The Transvaal War of 1881 Majuba Hill Cape Politics The South African States Cape Town as a Coal- ing Station Defences of the Cape Forts at Simon's Bay Fort Wynyard General Cameron and the Cape Town Garrison . . . . . .17 CHAPTER III. DIAMONDS. We leave Cape Town The Paarl Worcester Town The mi CONTENTS. PJLGI Hex River Pass A Paddington man Arrival at Matjesfontein Mr. J. D. Logan The Karroo Diamond Industry at Kimberley Visit to the offices of the De Beers Company Mr. Cecil Rhodes a public man of the first order Mr. Gardner Williams, mining engineer The blue ground Separating the diamonds Precautions against Theft The De Beers Company a model Village Community Electric light used in the diamond mines ... . . .33 CHAPTER IV. GOLD. The diamonds of Kimberley The journey to Johannes- burg Railway extensions Grass veldt betw. en Kimberley and Vryburg The cattle farm of the future " Native Reserve " of the Southern Bechuana Wo reach Vryburg Sir Sidney Shippard enter- tains us Coaching with a team of mules The way- faring man in the Transvaal An attractive little town Gold mines in the neighbourhood The out- look at Johannesburg The gold mines Selfish jealousy of the Boer Government Astounding in- equality of taxation Bad condition of the roads to Johannesburg The vicious system of concessions . 49 CHAPTER V. MINING AND SPORTING. Account of the Robinson Gold Mine at Johannesburg The Langlaate Estate Chlorination at the Ferreira Mine Dr. Simon The McArthur-Forrest process Observations on the gold-fields of Johannesburg Silver Mines in the Transvaal Deer preserves With Dog and Gun in search of Game ." ". . 05 CHAPTER VI. THE TRANSVAAL BOERS. A. chance for British enterprise The capacity of the CONTENTS. ix PAGB Transvaal and the incapacity of its rulers The journey from Johannesburg to Pretoria Description of Pretoria The Dutch Parliament From the Strangers' Gallery An interview with President Krugcr Parliamentary manners General Joubert Report of a case showing the Boer idea of justice Ill-treatment of Natives by the Boers Shall we surrender Swaziland 1 The Withering Grasp of the Boer 79 CHAPTER VII. ON THE EOAD TO MA8HON ALAND. The Chartered Company's Station at Fort Tuli Mining in the Zoutspanburg District The Progress of the " Spider " Our first cooking efforts Hints for sportsmen Sixty miles without water A glimpse of Fairyland We meet Major Sapte and Mr. Victor Morier Meeting with Captain Laurie at Rhodes's Drift The Bechuanaland Border Police A "Boer trek " President Kruger's position Sir Frederick Carrington and the B.S.A.C. Co.'s police Experi- ment with the new magazine Rifle . . . .96 CHAPTER VIII. THE EXPEDITION : ITS COMPOSITION AND EQUIPMENT. Major Giles A fine collection of giants Our rifles and guns Warning and advice to future travellers Composition of the Expedition Major Giles's trek from Vryburg to Tuli The horse sicknessin Africa A .camp tire concert at Fort Tuli . . . .116 CHAPTER IX. THROUGH BECHUANALAND. Cold nights in camp The horse sickness Visit from Kaffir women to our Mariko River camp Outspan CONTENTS. on the banks of the Crocodile River We cross the Mahalopsie River Dr. Saur and Mr. Williams Camp at Silika Arrival at the Lotsani River The luxury of a shave The Suchi River Headquarters of the Bechuanaland Police at Matlaputta The Macloutsie River I lose myself near the Semalali River while in quest of game Catching up the waggons 126 CHAPTER X. TREKKING AND HUNTING. We entertain Sir Frederick Carrington Farewell to Fort Tuli The business of inspanning Our camp at night Sport with Dr. Rayner and Lee Laying the telegraph wire The Umzingwani River Camp Koodoos, quajrgas, and honey birds Lee's boy nick- named "The Baboon" The elephant fruit-tree Lee a charming companion on the Veldt The Umsajbetsi River Habits of our oxen and mules Shooting game in South Africa A native market An unsuccessful antelope hunt The mahogany tree Further hunting experiences Camp on the Bubjane River Our conductor My berg . . .142 CHAPTER XL LIONS. Lion Camp The tales of a Huntsman The snake-tree In the track of the koodoos We come across a posse of Lions Antelopes and quaggas Return to camp for the dogs Result of one day's sport We spend another day hunting Provisions running short . 158 CHAPTER XII. DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVEL ON THE VELDT. The wealth of Mashonaland We make a speedy trek and CONTENTS. xi PAGE overtake our waggons Further losses by horse sick- nessStuck fast in Wanetse River The Sugar Loaf and other miniature mountains A pestilential spot on the Lundi River banks A word of warning Viandt, the Boer ostrich hunter We reach Fern Spruit Death of my shooting pony " Charlie " A veldt fire A day of discomfort and disaster Provi- dence Gorge Description of Fort Victoria Great loss of horses Advice to intending emigrants . . 1 75 CHAPTER XHI. CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN FORTS VICTORIA AND SALISBURY. Departure for Fort Salisbury Our native workmen Water in the desert A dreary journey The country between Fort Victoria and Fort Charter Where is the ' Promised Land ' ? We meet Mr. Colquhoun The garrison of Fort Charter From Fort Charter to Fort Salisbury Lions in the way The Settlement at Fort Salisbury Signs of civilization The gold districts of Mauica, Mazoe River, and Hartley Hill Reconnoitring after Game . . . . .193 CHAPTER XIV. SPORT IN MASHONALAND. Sport in South Africa Hints to inexperienced sportsmen Approximate cost of equipment for a six months' hunting expedition Sir John Willoughby arrives at our camp on the Hunyani River Hunting the Hartebeest How to cook venison A Slough of Despond Further hunting adventures after ant el opes A native hunting party A cobra in the camp Method of scaring vultures off dead game Accident to Major Giles Scarcity of giain and food in Ma- shonaland Return to Fort Salisbury . . .212 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. TUB GOLD DISTRICT OF THB MAZOE RIVEE. In quest of gold Exploration syndicates Mashonaland as a field for emigration The Mazoe gold-fields Captain Williams's report Old workings The " Golden Quarry " mine Other mines visited in the district More disappointments .... 234 CHAPTER XVI. HUNTING THB ANTELOPE ON THB HIGH VELDT. We start for Hartley Hill The Mashonas as servants Marriage in Mashonaland All aione on the Veldt Hints to hunters when lost on the Veldt A Kaffir kraal Barter with the natives Dangerously bad shooting The troubles of trekking The country between Fort Salisbury and Hartley Hill Wild flowers and fruit Unsuccessful chase after ostriches A fine herd of eland The bull of the herd falls to my gun ......... 246 CHAPTER XVII. WEALTH OP MASHONALAND DOUBT AND DISAPPOINTMENT. Hartley Hill Our party again united The Tsetse-fly pest Mr. Perkins joins me in a day's shooting Surgeon Rayner's adventure with a lion Contemplating the return journey Making a clean breast of it Decep- tive appearances Reefs in the Eiflel district What is to become of the country 1 Mr. Perkins and the leopard . ' . . . " . . 263 CHAPTER XVIII. LIFE AT FOET SALISBURY. Mineral wealth of MashonalanJ Reefs in the Mazoo CONTENTS. xiii PASS River Valley The " Matchless " Mine Good news from Fort Victoria A personal statement Enter- prise at Fort Salisbury A model Ranche Farms leased by the Chartered Company ^n interesting auction Indignation meeting against the Chartered Company Horse-racing at Fort Salisbury Organiz- ing the administration of Mashonalnnd Mr. Cecil Rhodes's views of the country ..... 276 CHAPTER XIX. ON THE ROAD HOME. Second visit to the mines in the Mazoe Valley Good-bye to Fort Salisbury Bad roads The officials of the Chartered Company Fort Victoria once more Climate and weather in Mashonaland Gold dis- coveries round Fort Victoria My faithful savage ' ' Tiriki " We telegraph home from Fort Victoria Long's Mine The Lundi River Bad roads again Death of a " salted horse " The journey to Fort Tuli a record " trek " 295 CHAPTER XX LOOKING BACK. Our method of travelling Welcome and entertainment by the Bechuaualand Border Police at Maclout*ie Palapye, the capital town of Chief Khama Lobengula, King of the Matabele Meditated flight of all his tribe and belongings The Bechuanaland Exploration Company Conversation with Khama, Paramount Chief in the Protectorate Palla Camp The Journey to Mafeking With Mr. Rhodes at Kimberley The Agricultural and Mineral Resources of the Transvaal My advice to young Englishmen . . . .313 INDEX . ...,;., 331 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. FULL PAGE. The R.M.S. Grantully Castle, 3489 tons, in Dartmouth Harbour . Luxurious Travelling in Madeira . A Madeira Caro, or covered Sledge Parliament House, Cape Town Government House aud Gardens, Cape Town Adderley Street, Capo Town On the Road from Johannesburg to Pretoria Crossing a flooded river The Market Place, Johannesburg . A Street in Johannesburg "The Spider" .... Executive Officers of the Expedition A Camp Fire Concert at Fort Tuli Showing a flare up for the lost one The Members of the Expedition . First night out from Fort Tuli Marketing with the Makalaka Crossing the Lundi River Two Members of the Expedition crossing the Lundi River ......... A Dreary Road. The View fifty miles from Fort Charter Building a " Scherm " to keep off Lions from the Cattle on the Hunyani River . . . . A Sketch of the Country from Matipi's Kraal Drawing dead Game home on a sledge made from the fork of a tree 5 9 9 18 18 19 54 57 58 100 117 124 140 142 144 153 181 181 197 204 204 229 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xv PASS On the Outskirts of Fort Salisbury . . . .281 N earing the end. The Sale of the Surplus Stock and Stores of the Expedition at Fort Salisbury . . 286 Fort Salisbury. At the Dentist's 295 The Arrival of the Telegraph Line at Fort Victoria. Sending a telegram to London .... 305 From Tuli to Macloutsie 313 Crossing the Notwani after the heavy rains . . . 325 TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. A Cape Cart 20 The Defences of the Cape. A 9'2-inch breech-loading gun 29 52.000 worth of diamonds classified for shipment at Kimberley 37 In the Rock Shaft of the De Beers Diamond Mine, at a depth of 900 feet 40 In the 800 feet level of the De B'-ers Diamond Mine . 43 Sorting Gravel for Diamonds at Kimberley ... 44 General View of the Robinson Gold Mines at Johannes- burg 66 Sir Frederick Carrington and Officers of the Bechuana- land Border Police and British South African Company's Police ....... 106 Lord Randolph discussing his route with Sir F. Carring- ton at Fort Tuli Ill The long and the short of it 117 Camp Life at Tuli Branding Cattle . . . .121 Fording a River . . . . . . . . 130 The Main Column encamped on the bank of the Lotsani 133 The Camp of the Main Column at Suchi River . . 135 The Waggon Conductor sports a new pair of "store" trousers . . . . . . . .138 Our Camp on the Umzingwani River . . . .146 Typical Natives from the Umshlane River Districts . 151 xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The " Sugar Loaf " Mountain between the Rivers Wanetse and Lundi . 180 Passages in the Life of one of our Boys In the Pantry . 185 A "Veldt "Fire . .* 187 One of our Boys (as he appeared with all his household goods) . 194 One of our Boys (in sackcloth, drawing water) . . 195 The Camp before Fort Charter . . . 200 Summer Sleighing in Mashon aland on the high road during the rainy season . . . . . .201 Native Paintings on Rocks at Matefi's Kraal . . . 205 Mr. Perkins, the Mining Expert, on the War-path . .210 Visit to the Ma/oe Gold-fields. Experts at work . . 235 The Mining Settlement at Hartley Hill . . . .264 At Hartley Hill. Punning for Gold at Mr. Sorrow's hut 272 Messrs. Johnson, Heaney, and Borrow's Ranche at Fort Salisbury 283 A Restaurant at Fort Salisbury 285 The First Horse-race at Fort Salisbury .... 288 A Party at the mess table, after dinner Fort Salisbury . 293 Tiriki 303 As he arrived 304 As he departed 305 The Outspaii on the Tokwe River 307 ROUTE MAP . A'.tnd-jflook MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND. Departure from Pad Jington Station Reasons for the journey-- The composition of the party Arrival at Dartmouth The Grantully Castle Lisbon : the Zoological Gardens Madeira Invitation from Mr. Benett-Stanford A Sub- tropical garden Farewell to Madeira Shoals of flying fish From breakfast to bedtime on board ship Athletic sports at sea Fire ! Cape Town. A BRIGHT morning towards the end of April. The eternal east wind blowing sharp and strong serves to moderate the regret which might be felt by one leaving England for a considerable period. In Paddington Station, alongside the platform, is drawn up the special express for Dartmouth. Every carriage appears to be full, round each compartment door large groups of persons, who intend to stay at home, wish farewell to those who are resolved to depart, and by their exuberant emotions obstruct the passage of the officials, of the tardy traveller, and of heavy trucks of baggage. Among the passengers the male sex largely predominates, and youth is stamped upon the countenances of the majority. In such a 2 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. scene and in such a crowd I find myself an in- terested and active participator, for I, with a few friends, am starting on a long journey ; and, in common with the others in the special train, my destination is South Africa. It happened to me shortly after my return from Egypt, in February, to meet Sir Henry Loch and Mr. Cecil Rhodes, the Governor and Prime Minister of Cape Colony, who had just arrived in England on a special mission of importance to the Home Government. Con- versation naturally was mainly about South Africa, about the territories of the Chartered Company, the goldfields of Zambesia, the dispute with the Portuguese. Sir Henry Loch and Mr. Rhodes were kind enough to give me a cordial invitation to visit the Cape, and it suddenly occurred to me that I had really for the moment nothing better to do. Politics for the time attracted me little. The principal measure l before the House of Commons which was being pressed forward by the Government, and by the party to which I belong, I disliked intensely, and while I was not prepared to take part in any opposition to the measure, for motives which friends will appreciate, I was resolved to give no vote and say no word in its favour. A shareholder in the Chartered Company, and on intimate terms with some of the directors, my attention had already been turned to Mashona- land ; I had imagined that the exploration and development of that vast country, so wealthy by 1 "Irish Land Question Bill." REASONS FOR THE JOURNEY. rumour and repute, was not unlikely to distin- guish the close of the century. English and foreign interests had been and were clashing ; spheres of influence for respective European Powers had been marked off in a hap-hazard and lighthearted manner; knowledge of the soil, of the climate, of the inhabitants, of the resources of Africa to the south of the Equator, was slight and by no means diffused among our people at home ; I thought that the day might not be distant when it might be useful and beneficial that a member of Parliament might be able to offer to the House of Commons observations, opinions, and arguments based upon personal inspection, actual experience of those localities, and to place before the public the views and desires of Cape Colonists of authority and of Afrikanders generally which might have been personally confided to him. The attractions of travel, of the chase, and specially of seeking for gold oneself, of acquiring gold mines or shares in gold mines, contributed also to decide me on the enterprise, and the few weeks before departure had been well occupied with the somewhat elaborate preparations necessary for the journey and with business arrangements with friends who were similarly interested and attracted. In the composition of my party I was fortunate. Major G-eorge Giles, late of the Royal Artillery, of considerable South African experience, who had seen much military service in that country, had undertaken to act as manager of the travelling and director of the route, and had preceded me by B * 4 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. nearly a month to the Cape, intending to purchase at Kimberley the waggons, mules, oxen, and horses, to engage the men necessary for such an expedition. To travel in ox or mule waggons without greater discomfort and hardship than is incidental to camp life, a thousand miles to Mashonaland, several hundred miles exploring that country, a thousand miles return journey, occupying in the operation a period of not less than six months, requires a careful and costly collection of resources and plant, of which I will give a full description in a subsequent letter ; to avoid undue delay while the season was favour- able, Major Giles had gone on ahead of me to the Cape. My actual travelling companions at the moment of departure were Captain G. Williams, late of the Royal Horse Guards, who had amiably consented to assist me in my business and my writing, Mr. Henry Cleveland Perkins, an American mining engineer of great eminence, and Surgeon Hugh Rayner, of the Grenadier Guards, on leave, who intended to co-operate with the finest climate in the world in keeping us in good health, and to mitigate, so far as science might, the consequences of any accident or disaster which an untoward fate might inflict upon us. He was also instructed by the military authorities to furnish them with a report on the climatic and hygienic conditions of Mashonaland, to discover and specify healthy sites for camps, and to collect such other information as would be useful to possess beforehand, should military operations ever become necessary in that country. THE "GRANTULLY CASTLE." To return to our departure : the last good-byes have been uttered, the doors of the carriages are slammed, the whistle sounds, and off we go, soon developing that alarming broad-gauge rapidity for which the Great Western was remarkable, dashing through Berkshire, Wiltshire, and Somer- setshire with a haste, a hurry which seemed quite unnecessary considering the immense distance of travel which lay before us, and the considerable period of time which we had to do it in. Dart- mouth, so familiar to the yachtsman, is reached all too soon. There lies the Grantully Castle, well known to fame as the ship in which Mr. Gladstone sailed when he made his celebrated " periplus " round Great Britain. A good-looking ship, sitting gracefully on the water, but small to my eye, more accustomed to the giants of the P. and 0., of the Cunard, and of the White Star Lines, in which, when I have on former occasions crossed the ocean, it has been my fortune to travel. But the weather appears to be set fair, the sun is bright and warm, the sea smooth, anl in fine weather and calm water a little ship does as well as a big one. Soon recede, from many a longing and lingering eye on board, the beautiful harbour, the green Devonshire cliffs, and a calm and moonlit midnight sees us well off Ushant. The Grantully Castle found the Bay of Biscay in a humour of comparative moderation; not that it was by any means amiable or attractive, on the contrary, it quite sustained its morose and un- genial character. The captain, indeed, expressed the opinion that it was as smooth as a mill-pond, 6 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. but most of the passengers thought this descrip- tion extravagant, many of them very practically disagreed with it. Fifty-eight hours after leaving London we anchored in the Tagus, opposite Lisbon, at the early hour of four a.m. Having to wait until five in the afternoon for the London mail, we took advantage of the opportunity to visit an ancient and historic city. The principal attraction to the eye was its cleanliness; broad, well-paved, clean-swept streets, spacious squares, adorned with interesting monuments, an environ- ment of forest and green hills, offer an aspect calculated at first to please the stranger. But a something or other, difficult to describe, warns one instinctively that Lisbon is a city the fame and traditions of which lie exclusively in the past, in all probability never to be revived. The inhabi- tants wear a sleepy, almost a dead-alive kind of look. I did not observe a single Portuguese in the streets who appeared to be in the smallest hurry. No cheerfulness animates their counten- ances, as is the case with the population of the southern Italian towns. With the exception of a few public buildings, the edifices and dwelling- houses are of a poor and unpretentious character. There is a total absence of attractive and well-filled shops. Coming away, one feels that one is glad to have seen Lisbon, for the reason that it will be unnecessary ever to go there again. A drive through the streets terminated with a visit to the Zoological Gardens, interesting for the quantity of wild and of garden flowers, presenting the most LISBON AND MADEIRA. brilliant hues, and for a singularly unique collec- tion of monkeys, among which three intelligent and engaging chimpanzees for a time arrested our attention. I would strongly recommend any traveller to Lisbon not to omit to inspect these gardens. It must, however, be added that the people of the city scarcely appreciate their merits, for the place, during our visit of more than an hour, was totally deserted. The Botanical Gardens, a visit to which want of time compelled us to forego, are also said to be of considerable excel- lence. The afternoon drawing on, it became necessary to return to the ship, and on the arrival of the London mail, we again put to sea, shaping our course for Madeira. A strong head wind and sea encountering us at the mouth of the Tagus, sadly thinned the attendance at dinner. The night was rough, and the following day supremely disagree- able. A driving mist, a warm, clammy wind, and a heavy rolling sea depressed the spirits, and made all long for more southern latitudes. At dawn on the second day after leaving Lisbon the island of Terra Santa stood out finely on the starboard bow. A few hours' steaming brought into clear view the bold outlines and grassy slopes of Madeira, and the sunny bay of Funchal. I was fortunate in find- ing, on arrival here, a note from an old friend, Mr. Benett-Stanford, who owns perhaps the most beautiful villa in the island, inviting my friends and myself to pass the morning with him. On landing, a slight ascent brought us to the doors 8 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. of the Quinta Vigia (Anglice: The house and garden of the watch-tower) and to one of the most lovely gardens I have ever set eyes on. Imagine the contents of the conservatories and greenhouses of Tring Park, of Waddesdon, of Blenheim, Chatsworth, or Floors castle, all con- centrated into a small space of some two acres, and growing with apparent wildness in the open air. For accumulated variety and profusion of bloom, fragrance, and luxuriant foliage, drawn from every quarter of the world, this garden can have no rival, and I have seen many, at home and in foreign countries. The gateway is sheltered by two remarkable camphor-trees, the leaves of which, when crushed in the hand, give off an aromatic and spicy perfume. On the terrace, overlooking the sea, one perceives, on the right hand, an immense mass of blue blossom, borne by the "Jacaranda." On the left a similar mass of deep crimson blossom draws attention to a splendid "Schotia." Two large trees, by name " Grevillia," covered with yellow flowers, offer a startling but agreeable contrast. Many fine specimens of the " dragon-tree " and of the " umbrella-palm " are studded about the ground. The " Strelitzia reginse," apparently a sort of banana, is imposing from its size and its feathering leaves. The " peacock-tree " (Poinciana pulcherrima), with its lovely blossom, attracts the hand of the wanton flower-gatherer, and the eye is in reality dazzled by the extraordinary, but not inharmonious profusion of the " rose-apple " tree, A SUB-TROPICAL GARDEN IN MADEIRA. 9 cinnamon, silver banana, and mango tree, of the " Olea fragrans " and Francisia bushes, of the quaint " bottle-brush " plant, with its crimson flower. The verandah of the villa is covered with " Bougainvillia," and with another creeper, novel to me, the " Combretum coccinium," offering a mass of scarlet bloom. For the purpose of strolling through the town, our kind host provided a couple of hammocks, with their attendant bearers in white canvas clothing, and a " caro," or covered sledge, comfortably fitted, drawn by bullocks. This vehicle, which I imagine is peculiar to Madeira, can be drawn by the sleek oxen with considerable speed and perfect smoothness over the well-paved streets, or rather paths, which intersect the town and ascend the mountains. The public gardens, the opera house, a visit to the British Consul, to Messrs. Blandy's well-known office, and to the comfortable English club, exhaust the small time at our disposal, and soon after noon we are once more on board the Grantully Castle, heading south to Cape de Verde, leaving fast, but some- what reluctantly, Madeira behind us. The hour of 5.30 a.m. finds two or three pas- sengers on deck enjoying the pleasures of a cup of coffee and the first morning cigarette. From six to eight the ship's toilette proceeds, from the rough- and-ready washing and scrubbing of decks to the conscientious and minute polishing of every bit of wood and brass-work. This is, perhaps, the pleasantest time of the day ; cool, fresh air, peace- fid decks unobstructed by chairs ; walking exercise io MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. is possible and pleasant, no noise disturbs the cur- rent of your morning reflections. Cloudless is the sky, strong the following " N.E. trade," covering the surface of the sea with white horses, but not strong enough to overtake and refresh the fast- O ^j flying ship, whose passengers are warned by the already glowing sun that the day is going to be a " piper." Looking over the stern you see the same troop of swifts or swallows which for three days now have followed us. Swooping, hovering, skimming, darting, never left behind, seemingly never progressing, never resting ; where they come from, where they are going to, where they sleep, and what they feed on offers a problem which natural history has not yet attempted to solve. From time to time shoals of flying fish shoot from the waves, nor can one imagine a more pleasant sight than these animated particles of silver present, jumping from and skimming along the surface of the water by scores and hundreds, gleaming and glistening in the sunlight. Last evening, one, probably a " loose fish," when all his fellows had gone to bed, jumped with a mighty leap right on to our deck. Promptly secured by a quarter- master, it attracted the observation of a French gentleman, who desired to photograph it, have it stuffed, and carry it home to his family museum. But my friend and I disappointed him, taking it and giving it to the cook, and eating for breakfast the tinny fowl. Morning wears away, groups of gentlemen have appeared and disappeared, clothed in that loose and light attire, with sponge, towel, FROM BREAKFAST TO BEDTIME. 11 and soap, which denotes resort to or accomplishment of the matutinal bath. Breakfast is over, and by noon most of the party are deep in literary occupa- tion, writing and reading apparently being suitable only to this time of day. A temperature of 75 deg. under the awning is adverse to muscular exercise. Now come round the managers of the daily lottery on the ship's run, drawing variously from the passengers shillings and crowns ; some contenting themselves with a single lot, others basing their hopes on securing many chances. At 12.30 the captain announces that in the preceding twenty- four hours we have compassed the respectable distance of 328 miles. The winner of the lucky number looks happy in his clever superiority, but can scarcely be much richer, for etiquette pre- scribes that he should generously proffer cham- pagne to the losers. Luncheon at an end, the passenger mind turns to amusement. The young find relief in the violent exercise of deck- cricket, and in the wild mirth occasioned when some placid, reposing, and digesting person receives the ball full in his face, an incident which he is expected to bear with perfect equanimity, neither asking for, nor expecting the smallest apology. Deck-quoits, and the sonorous game of " Bull," claim their adherents ; for others, the frivolous " Halma," the rattling backgammon, or the severely serious chess have their charms, and here and there vice betrays itself in the shape of cards, with its usual accompaniments of brandy and soda, beer, pipes, and cigars, while ever and anon a half- J2 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. suppressed " damn," or a less suppressed exclama- tion of triumph, discloses the vicissitudes of the game. So the afternoon blends itself into the evening. At half-past six the bell for dinner sounds, after which, music in the saloon detains many. " Gentlemen oblige " the company with songs and recitations, the French gentleman dis- plays a startling ingenuity in card conjuring. On deck, soothed by tobacco, many groups converse. The talk is probably of Africa and Mashonaland, of diamond mines and of the " Randt," of the depth and thickness of reefs, of the yield of so many pennyweights to the ton, of" pay chutes," of stamps, crushers, and chlorination, till the disappearance one by one of the electric lights warns us that the night is well on, and we turn into our cabins to dream of re-discovering El Dorado, of revelling in the " placers " of another California, of handling deliriously the nuggets of a second Ballarat. On waking we trust that we have not dreamed of a Golden Fleece. So the voyage proceeds. One of our days at sea was agreeably passed by holding athletic sports and contests, in which all classes of the passengers took part. Racing, leap- ing, and cock-fighting were the principal features. Four times round the ship from stern to bow was found to afford a good half-mile course, and the struggle was decided after several heats, some of them of an exciting character. The prize for leap- ing was long and closely contested, four feet seven being at length triumphantly cleared by the victor. Taking into account the perceptible rolling of the ATHLETIC SPORTS AT SEA. 13 ship, the achievement appears to have been one of merit. Cock-fighting, also, was the source of con- siderable amusement, and, to the astonishment and delight of all, the prize was carried off by the smallest and youngest of the competitors. A potato race, an egg and spoon race, in which ladies only took part, an obstacle race, in which last sus- pended lifebuoys to be darted through and long wind sails to be crept through tested severely the agility and endurance of the runners, occupied fully the morning and the afternoon. A respectable fund for prizes had been previously collected, the proceedings were managed with the utmost order and method, the decisions of the officials received without a murmur. In the tug-of-war the first class overpulled the second, who also suffered de- feat at the hands of the third-class passengers. It appears that these athletic sports are a regular institution on board the Grantully Castle, and this original and agreeable method of breaking the monotony of a long voyage offers an example to commanders of ocean-going vessels which cannot be too widely imitated. The day antecedent to our arrival at Cape TOAVH was the most dis- agreeable of the voyage. A high and heavy rolling sea rendered sleep by night or occu- pation by day alike almost impossible. Shortly after luncheon an incident occurred which for some moments must have fluttered the strongest nerves. A strong smell of burning, smoke coming up thickly from the after skylight, passengers run- ning up from below, driven out of their cabins by 14 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. the stifling smoke, told us all too plainly that a fire had broken out on board ship. The fire-bell was rung, the officers and crew were beat to quarters, the nose was fitted, and in a few minutes gallons of water were being poured through the skylight down into the after-hold, where it was discovered the fire had occurred. At the same time rapid preparations were made for getting the boats ready for lowering, though whether these would have been of much service to us, had we had to have recourse to them in such a heavy sea, was a matter of serious doubt. In a quarter of an hour, how- ever, or twenty minutes, all danger was over. The officers and crew worked with the utmost steadi- ness and resolution, the first officer particularly showing extreme courage and endurance, being the first to descend into the burning hold, and re- maining in an almost impossible atmosphere for a considerable time directing the application of the water. The passengers preserved their composure remarkably, contenting themselves with getting out of the way, and offering as little impediment as possible to the operations of the ship's company. The cause of the fire was not discovered to a cer- tainty. In the after-hold were scattered a variety of ship's stores, a quantity of empty bottles, heaps of straw and shavings, the contents of opened packing- cases. It was ventilated by a grating into the cabin passage, and the captain supposed, probably with justice, that some reckless and wanton passenger, lighting a cigar below in violation of rigid rules, had ignorantly and carelessly thrown away the match ARRIVAL AT CAPE TOWN. 15 still lighted, allowing it to fall on this mass of inflam- mable material. The mail-room adjoins the after- hold, and the mails must have had a narrow escape ; while the hold immediately forward contained large stores of spirits. Had these been ignited the consequences would probably have been most serious. Some inches of water on the cabin floors, and a strong smell of smoke, of charred straw and wood, served for some hours to remind the pas- sengers how near they had been to a very un- pleasant termination of their voyage. The morn- ing of the 14th of May broke gloomily, with heavy rain and driving mist. About nine o'clock a bright clearance to the southward disclosed the heights of Table Mountain. As we drew nearer the weather became brighter, the clouds broke : when off the breakwater the Cape of Good Hope was welcoming us with its sunniest smile. The approach from the sea to Cape Town is imposing and attractive. The lofty granite mass of Table Mountain, the distant ranges of hills stretching over half the horizon, and the calm waters of Table Bay brought into the mind succes- sively Gibraltar, the Riviera, and the Bay of Palermo, while the attractions of the spot were strengthened by the feeling that a long, tedious, and monotonous voyage had at length been accom- plished. It may be a matter of question whether, under present conditions, a voyage to South Africa is as beneficial to invalids or to persons of delicate health, and liable to sea-sickness, as is generally supposed. The excessive heat in the regions of 16 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. the Equator debilitates and exhausts ; scarcely a day of the voyage was not marked by considerable rolling or pitching, and the imperfect ventilation, the inferior food, and the want of power and speed in the older Cape vessels lead one to hope that before long an increasing volume of passenger traffic may compel the construction of larger, better found, and swifter ships, rivalling in their excellence the racers of the North Atlantic lines. I imagine that a vessel like the Teutonic could cover the dis- tance between Plymouth and the Cape of Good Hope in less than fourteen days. The Grantully Castle occupied a period of nineteen days and nine- teen hours. On landing, I repaired to Govern- ment House, to which I had received a gracious invitation. CAPE TOWN. 17 CHAPTER II. CAPE COLONY. Scenery and climate of Cape Town Public Buildings The Government House, Natural History Museum, and Public Library Adderley Street The sea prospect from Cape Town Rivalry of Port Elizabeth The inhabitants and environs of Cape Town Dutch and English in the Colony Mr. Cecil Rhodes The Transvaal War of 1881 Majuba Hill Cape Politics The South African States Cape Town as a Coaling Station Defences of the Cape Forts at Simon's Bay Fort Wynyard General Cameron and the Cape Town Garrison. Hie terrarum mihi prseter omnes Angulus ridet, ubi non Hymetto Mella decedunt viridique certat Bacca Venafro ; Ver ubi longum tepidasque praebet Jupiter brumas, et amicus Aulon Fertili Baccho nimium Falernis Invidet uvis. FOR beauty of scenery and general excellence of climate Cape Town approaches perfection. In- habited by some 50,000 souls, it reposes at the foot of the great Table Mountain, sheltered though not oppressed by towering and precipitous granite masses. Possessing and proud of a history going back over a period of upwards of 250 years, the town itself shows few if any signs of antiquity. The traveller might often imagine from its strag- gling and unfinished appearance that he had c i8 MKN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. arrived at one of those sudden settlements, the creation of a few months or weeks, which are characteristic of an American territory or of the Australian bush. Public buildings of high archi- tectural merit are scarce ; indeed, the Houses of Parliament and the Standard Bank may be said to be the only edifices entirely worthy of the traditions and position of the town. The old Town House, the old Castle, vividly and agreeably recall the Dutchman of the seven- teenth century, relics of an interesting past, testimonies of a famous history, which should be tenderly preserved. His Excellency the Gover- nor is respectably, but not splendidly, accommo- dated. A long, low building, hidden away in a corner of ugly elevation but of roomy and commo- dious interior, containing spacious apartments, uneasily supports the dignified title of " Govern- ment House." A garden of considerable extent, well filled with shady oak-trees and many fine specimens of tropical plants, makes up largely for the architectural shortcomings of the edifice. Adjoining are to be found the Botanical Gardens, the Natural History Museum, and the Public Library. All of these institutions apparently suffer from a want of liberal maintenance, which is the more to be regretted as their contents are for the most part excellent and rare. The Natural History Museum possesses a very perfect collection of African fauna, mainly contributed by the famous hunter, Mr. Selous, of birds, and of mineralogical and conchological specimens of great interest ; but PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 19 all these objects of study are so crowded and so crammed up together, and stowed away in cases so insufficiently lighted, that detailed and careful inspection of them is a matter of extreme difficulty. Both this museum and the Public Library, which latter is a fine' hall, containing a large and varied collection of books and many ancient manuscripts, are freely and frequently resorted to by the in- habitants. Addeiiey Street in the morning is crowded and animated ; many of its buildings have striven to attain to a respectable standard of civic architecture, and well-filled shops elegantly display a variety of articles of luxury, which suggest the diffusion of an easy affluence. The sea prospect from Cape Town is most agree- able. A lengthy breakwater, constructed with great solidity, protects an anchorage where many vessels of size might congregate. The docks, which were large enough for the shipping require- ments of a generation ago, are too small to allow of the entrance of large modern steamers, and it is much to be regretted that the construction of a big, wide dock in the rear of the existing docks has been suspended owning to want of funds. Port Elizabeth, with superior railway advantages, and, perhaps, a more go-ahead public spirit, is pressing Cape Town hard ; and it is probable that, if the latter does not bestir itself, it may forfeit its commercial eminence in South Africa. But pos- sibly the charm of Cape Town lies in its respectable repose. The inhabitants, who welcome the stranger with a cordial hospitality rarely to be found else- c 2 20 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA where, have inherited, probably from the Dutch, a pleasant conservatism of thought and of habitude. They are not inclined to believe that the bustle of Melbourne or the crowds of Sydney represent the highest standard of social happiness ; they have a tendency to regard with some doubt and anxiety the development and progress which Cape Town A Capo Cart. lias -undoubtedly made in the last few years ; many of them view with apprehension and some with alarm the influx of a large population which may shortly be attracted by the mineral wealth of South Africa already said to be discovered. The late Lord Iddesleigh, in one of his political discourses, averred that he had been accused of being " wanting ENVIRONS OF CAPE TOWN. 21 in go," but it was felt by all that the accusation, if true, only exhibited more pleasantly the general amiability of his character. Similarly it is possible that the people of Cape Town have a tendency to a liability to such an accusation, but those who are fortunate enough to know and understand them will readily confess that the defect, if it exists, may be counted among their attractions rather than among their faults. The environs of Cape Town in the direction of Wynberg are of surpassing beauty. Forests, groves, plantations of oak, pine, eucalyptus, owing their origin to the provident forethought of the early Dutch settlers, thickly cover the ground from the slopes of the mountain almost to the shores of the sea. Miles of shady lanes, extending in all directions, make riding and driving an un- failing pleasure, while on every side old-fashioned villas and country-houses, with perfect and well- kept gardens, disclose alike the cultivated taste and the love of country life which characterize the wealthier portion of the resident community. English people afflicted at home by a winter climate which year after year grows more intolerable and more interminable, fruitlessly, and at great cost, seek sunshine and warmth in the south of Europe amid unsympathetic foreigners. A three weeks' voyage, unaccompanied either by hardships or risk, would bring them to this lovely spot, where, among people of their own race, speaking their own language, and thinking their own thoughts, they would find and enjoy the most temperate and equable summer weather, with all the attrac- 22 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS TN SOUTH AFRICA. tions t)f sea-side existence which the earth can offer. Socially a very happy change has, in recent years, been effected in the Cape Town community. The old hostility between the English and the Dutch, which at the time of the Transvaal War had at- tained a dangerous height, seems to have entirely passed away. The two sections regard each other with feelings of respect, friendship, mutual trust. The genius of the Prime Minister, Mr. Cecil Rhodes, has mainly contributed to this auspicious state of things. He has known how to acquire and retain the confidence of the English and of the Dutch colonist, he has shown them in the daily practice of his Government that their interests are entirely and absolutely common, and so homogeneous is now this Cape community that the President of the South African Republic and the Transvaal Boers have been plainly and effectively warned by many Dutchmen of authority and position in Cape Colony that unfriendly action on their part against the British position in Zambesia, and hostile action by Boer " trekkers," against the British Chartered South African Company, will neither receive the support nor enjoy the sympathy of any appre- ciable section of the Dutch subjects of the Queen. The Cape Colony Dutch sympathized profoundly with their countrymen, who, in 1881, were fight- ing for their freedom ; but that freedom having been restored and guaranteed, they are equally ready to disapprove of, and even to resist, their Transvjuil kinsmen impelled by land hunger or by MAJUBA HILL. 23 sheer animosity to attack British possessions and British subjects without reason or provocation. Moreover, the Cape Colony Dutch argue with much force : " We supported you Boers in your struggle for liberty, our support saved you from British resentment; in return you have placed prohibitive duties on our goods and productions, you have obstinately hindered the extension of our railways, and you have excluded our children from civil employment in your State. Whereas we find that this Imperial Goverment which you so unreasonably hate, wether in Bechuanaland or in the Chartered territory, admits our goods duty free, actively supports the development of the rail- way system, and invites our children not only to enter its service, but to come into and occupy the lands under its control." In justice it should be added that the sagacious policy of Mr. Rhodes has only been made possible by the termination of the Transvaal War in 1881, and by the manner of its termination. The surrender of the Transvaal and the peace concluded by Mr. Gladstone with the victors of Majuba Hill were at the time, and still are, the object of sharp criticism and bitter de- nunciation from many politicians at home, quorum pars parva fui. Better and more precise informa- tion, combined with cool reflection, leads me to the conclusion that, had the British Government of that day taken advantage of its strong military position, and annihilated, as it could easily have done, the Boer forces, it would indeed have re- gained the Transvaal, but it might have lost Cape 24 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. Colony. The Dutch sentiment in the Colony had been so exasperated by what it considered to be the unjust, faithless, and arbitrary policy pursued towards the free Dutchmen of the Transvaal by Sir Bartle Frere, Sir Theophilus Shepstone, and Sir Owen Lanyon, that the final triumph of the British arms mainly by brute force would have permanently and hopelessly alienated it from Great Britain ; Parliamentary government in a country where the Dutch control the Parliament would have become impossible, and without Par- liamentary government, Cape Colony would be ungovernable. The actual magnanimity of the peace with the Boers concluded by Mr. Gladstone's Ministry after two humiliating military reverses suffered by the arms under their control became plainly apparent to the just and sensible mind of the Dutch Cape Colonist, atoned for much of past grievance, and demonstrated the total absence in the English mind of any hostility or unfriendli- ness to the Dutch race. Concord between Dutch and English in the colony from that moment became possible, and that concord the government of Mr. Rhodes inaugurated, and has since to all appearance firmly riveted. On the other hand, the peace thus concluded with the Transvaal carried with it some grave disadvantages. The re- erection of the South African Republic contributed another powerful factor to the forces of disunion in South Africa ; the Boers of the Transvaal, wanting altogether the common-sense of their kinsmen in the colony, have since the war been CAPE POLITICS. 25 inflated with an overweening pride, foolishly eager to seek quarrels and sustain disputes with the English power, and will continue, possibly for generations, to be a formidable obstacle to either political or commercial federation in South Africa. Moreover, the generosity of the surrender of the Transvaal by the English Government was naturally misunderstood by, cr was not apparent to, the mind of powerful native races. On the whole, I find myself free to confess, and without reluctance to admit, that the English escaped from a wretched and discreditable muddle, not without harm and damage, but probably in the best pos- sible manner, and that lessons have been taught to many parties by the Transvaal war which, if learned, may be of the utmost value in framing future policy. South African politics are highly interesting at the present moment. The position of the Cape Government is one of apparent solidity and power. Against it, supported as it is by a preponderating majority in Parliament, two ex-Prime Ministers, in imperfect harmony with each other, and followed by groups numerically insignificant, with difficulty sustain the forms of an Opposition. Complete concord and co-operation exist between the Par- liament and the Ministers on the one hand, and the High Commissioner on the other. It is, indeed, well that this should be so now, for the develop- ment of the agricultural and mineral resources of Matabeleland under the protection of the British Government, through the instrumentality of the 26 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. Chartered Company, will require for years the most skilful, prudent, and courageous handling. That those resources -will before long prove to be of value to the English people doe > not admit of doubt ; but their very value excites the cupidity, not only of the weak and easily-controlled Boer, and of the weaker and still more easily-controlled Portuguese, but also of such powerful rivals as France and Germany ; any failure on our part effectively to develop Matabeleland, to preserve peace, order, and security in those vast regions, and to combine in the work the entire British African community, would result in a loss which, from a national and from a commercial point of view, can only be described as immeasurable. But the combination of the British African community for effective executive purposes is a task which may almost exhaust the resources of statesmanship. From the Zambesi to the Cape of Good Hope, a region occupying some two thousand miles of land in length, inhabited by about half a million whites and by over four millions of natives, every form of government known to history is to be found in existence and at work : in the Uape Colony a re- presentative Parliament elected on the widest native and European suffrage, with responsible Ministers and almost complete independence of the Home Government ; in Natal a more restricted re- presentative body, with Ministers not directly responsible to that body, a sort of Prussian ad- ministration ; in Zululand the personal and direct government of the Governor of Natal : in the THE SOUTH AFRICAN STATES. 27 Transvaal an independent republic, but unable to conclude treaties with foreign States without the approval of the British Government ; with a pre- sident, executive, and two chambers elected by Dutch burghers, but with many thousands of European population possessing no political rights ; in the Orange Free State another independent re- public, governed by a president and one chamber, elected by all the citizens ; in Bechuanaland the direct and personal government of the Governor of Cape Colony, exercised through an administrator under laws enacted by the Governor's proclama- tion ; in Basutoland direct and personal govern- ment of the High Commissioner, exercised through an administrator under laws enacted by the High Commissioner's proclamation, and with native customs and native laws administered by native chiefs so far as they may not be inconsistent with English justice ; in the Bechuanaland Protectorate the personal authority of the High Commissioner, the native chiefs and territory protected by the Bechuanaland Border Police from external ag- gression, with native laws administered by the chiefs ; in Swaziland a joint Government carried on by the British and the Transvaal authorities, with an executive consisting of a representative of the Swazi nation, of the British Government, and of the South African Republic, whose laws require the joint approval of the guaranteeing Powers ; in Pondoland an independent native State, the sea-coast only of which is under the protection of England with a seaport on the coast which is 28 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. actual British territory ; in Damaraland a German territory under direct control of the German Gov- ernment, the only seaport of which belongs to the Cape Colony ; in Amatongaland an independent native State governed by Queen Zambili and her councillors, but possessing no power to conclude treaties with foreign States, except with the approval of the British Government ; while in Matabeleland, a territory as large as France, in- habited by a numerous and warlike tribe of Zulu origin, the burden of government has been assumed by an English Commercial Corporation under charter from the Crown, under the jurisdic- diction of the High Commissioner, and deriving administrative authority from the High Com- missioner acting on behalf of the British Govern- ment. The mere enumeration of these various forms of government, the mere setting out of this complicated and variegated congeries of powers and authorities all mixed up almost inextricably together, will suffice to give some idea of the difficulties and embarrassments which attend the course whether of a Secretary of State, of a High Commissioner, or of a Cape Colony Government and Parliament. For a British coaling station of great import- ance Cape Town is fairly well fortified. By the courtesy of General Cameron, commanding the forces, and of Colonel Knollys, commanding the Artillery, I was enabled to make a detailed ex- amination of the defences. I was naturally much interested in noting what had been done, because DEFENCES OF THE CAPE. 29 Cape Town is one of the coaling stations which Lord Salisbury accused me of being desirous, when Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1886, of leaving in a defenceless condition. Five 9 '2-inch breech- loading guns, with hydro-pneumatic mountings, placed in positions selected with admirable art, make the approach of a hostile fleet a work of great difficulty and danger. With these formid- The Defences of the Cape A 9'2-inch breech-loading gun. able cannon are placed, more for purposes of ornament than of effective use, fourteen or fifteen seven-ton muzzle-loading guns. These latter have been discarded by the navy, and are considered by expert artillerists, on account of their muzzle- loading arrangements, their inferior accuracy, and small penetrative power, to be obsolete. The Home Government, however, considered them to 30 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. be good enough for the Cape, and at great expense have sent out and mounted a number of them for the defence of Table Bay and of Simon's Bay. I am informed that for the same money an equal number of the new six-inch breech-loading gun might have been furnished, in which case the defences of the Cape of Good Hope in respect of ordnance would have been complete. 1 But it is ever so. Our War Office and Admiralty can never be persuaded to make a finished and perfect work. The various detached forts in which these guns have been placed have been constructed with great solidity. The Cape Government supplied the sites and the labour at e waggon slung matti-ess. 128 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. certain time, in fact, it may be in rather better fettle than usual, when suddenly it appears un- well. It ceases to work and. becomes very tottery. In a few minutes it is noticed to be breathing hard, and its nostrils working are evidences of great distress. Almost at the same time a dis- charge of mucus appears at the nostrils, which presently becomes very profuse. The distress increases, and in a few hours the animal, becoming weaker and weaker, and more and more distressed in its breathing, falls down and dies. Post-mortem shows general congestion of the internal organs, especially of the lungs. All kinds of remedies have been tried, and have failed. In the case of our mule, half a bottle of gin and a large table- spoonful of quinine were at once administered, and this seemed to revive it for a time ; but soon the weakness came on again, and the animal died. June llth. Sequana is about fifteen miles from Maripi, our last halting place. It is on the banks of the River Mariko, which provides good water. We are outspanned about 200 yards from the river by the road side. This afternoon a lot of Kaffir women came round with milk, pumpkins, etc., for barter. They were a very good-natured looking lot. I happened, at the time, to be reading the special number of South Africa, which contains many excellent pictures of this part of the world and of the various tribes. I showed them to the women, and they recognized several specimen portraits. The first was a picture of Matabele women, correct in detail, because it was KAFFIR WOMEN. 129 copied from a photograph by Surgeon-Major Melladew. One woman immediately recognized it, and clapped her hands, calling out, " Ha, ha ! Matabele, Matabele ! " Then came some pictures of soldiers, which they also recognized, and with which they were equally pleased. A pleasant half-hour was thus spent. A Kaffir man sold me his hat for 6d., which I took a fancy to, and which was simply the skin of a very pretty little red and black bird, tied jauntily on the left side of his head with a piece of string. Then he went away, but soon returned with another " hat " on. This, however, was not nearly so pretty, and I made no offers. I have no doubt that had I bought it, he could have appeared in any number of " hats " in succession. I also bought from him a jackal's tail (used for brushing flies away) for 6 TIRIKI" AND HIS WARDROBE. 305 lieu of the goats which I had promised him, but could not procure. These two latter he concealed away in alternate and numerous coverings of bags, cases, and again bags and wrap- pings. His figure and appearance when he de- parted were inconceivably grotesque. He is now probably a millionaire in his kraal, has married the girl whom he has long had in his eye, and as years go by he will add to his wealth by selling his daughters, should fortune still attend him and give him female pro- g e n y_ Mr. Cecil Rhodes arrived at Fort Victoria a week after our party, on the morning of our departure, and almost immediately rode out to the telegraph wire which had that morning only been brousrht within two miles of the fort. As it was 306 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. all on my way I joined him. The scene was pecu- liar and very African. Amid waggons, oxen, mules, and horses, piles of telegraph poles, coils of wire, boxes of insulators, and odds and ends of baggage and provisions could be seen meandering a little green string communicating with the waggon, which it entered, the elevated wire being some yards off. The operator was seated in the waggon, where he had installed his apparatus ; the clisselboom of the waggon served as a desk for the sender to write out his despatches. So we all sent off messages, some to Cape Town, some to London, happy at finding ourselves once more in actual contact with home and with friends. At midday I finally got off, and a distance of twenty miles was accomplished before outspanning for the night. Fern Spruit was passed of evil memory to me, as the place where three of our horses had died on the way up, and where our camp was nearly destroyed by fire. Here we picked up Major Giles, with the ox- waggon, which was to accompany us as far as Tuli. Hard by Fern Spruit is situated " Long's " Mine, from which specimens of quartz of extra- ordinary richness in gold have been taken. There is, however, some doubt as to whether the quartz nowbeing worked is a legitimate reef or is not rather a " blow out." The discoverer and proprietor had dug down to a depth of only eighteen inches, and seemed to be unwilling to risk the prospect of his property by prying deeper into the earth. I expect he wanted to part with his claims for a A PLEASANT PROSPECT. 307 good round sum of money to some syndicate or speculator, and take his profit at once. The specimens of quartz were sufficiently remarkable to seduce even the cautious, but with the re- collection of the " Yellow Jacket " and " Golden Quarry " still fresh in my mind I passed on, not The outspau on the Tokwe Eiver. even going two miles out of my way to view the mine, which had been thoroughly examined by Mr. H. Perkins. The weather for the first two days of our journey was most agreeable. The ail* had been cooled, the summer heat moderated x 2 308 MEN. MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. by recent heavy thunderstorms, the sky was over- cast with clouds, and travelling even at midday was easy for the teams and pleasant to ourselves. In appearance the bush had greatly changed since I travelled up the road. Now the vast tracts of charred and blackened ground, the result of the bush fires, were all covered with the freshest and the greenest grass. Almost all the trees were in leaf, some in flower, and the lights and shadows on the hills, on the rocky kopjes, and on the plain were of wonderful beauty and variety. We reached the Lundi on the evening of the 22nd. This stream we found greatly diminished in volume, and its passage offered no difficulty. The dangerous rocky drift of the Wanetse had been much improved by the removal of many boulders from the bed of the river, and this obstacle to travellers was traversed without mishap at sundown on the third day of the journey. From Fort Victoria to the Wanetse some effort has been made to im- prove the condition of the road. But a distance of eighty miles exhausted the energies of the Chartered Company's police. After the Wanetse the road relapses into a shocking condition, and stumps, rocks, deep ruts everywhere offer a pro- fusion of danger and discomfort to the traveller. Our progress was also impeded by a marked change in the temperature. The heat became excessive; no rain had fallen south of the hills near the Wanetse river, dust enveloped the carriages in stifling clouds, and the myriads of flies almost amounted to a plague. The poor mules and horses soon A WAGGON COME TO GRIEF. 309 showed the effect of the change, but their suffer- ings were added to by a total absence of young grass on which to graze during the day, and by the long distances they had often to travel in the great heat from water to water. Most of the spruits were altogether dry. One of my horses succumbed to the horse sickness. This was a horse I had purchased three months before at Victoria for a comparatively large sum, as he was reputed to be a "salted horse," and a guarantee against horse sickness was given me in his case. 1 I was now entitled to the return of the purchase-money. On the fifth day the heat became so great that we had to wait till dusk to accomplish our daily distance. No moon assisted us, and progress with " vorelopers " carrying lanterns was very slow. To an ox waggon stones and stumps and steep spruits offer little danger; it plunges along, defying all jolts and shocks. But with carriages on springs the greatest care has to be exercised, as the smashing of a wheel, or of a spring, or of a dissel- boom is as easy as it is irreparable. I should mention that between the Lundi and Wanetse the waggon on springs, which was drawn by oxen, and in which Major Giles was travelling, came to awful grief. Owing to careless driving in the dark across a nasty spruit the waggon was allowed to run up a high bank on one side of the passage, which toppled it over, the team drawing the fore- wheels and underbody of the waggon right away from the hind part. It took six or seven hours to 1 This was most promptly repaid by the former owner. 310 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. repair the damage caused by this accident. Our night trek brought us to the Umzingwane, the ox waggon being now left far behind. A few scanty pools of brackish water in a vast bed of dry sand alone served to indicate what is at certain seasons a large and rushing river. Half-way between this river and Fort Tuli a well-filled and well-served " winkel " told us that we had re-entered regions of comparative civilization. In spite of the heat, now very great, and of the fatigued condition of our animals, we pressed on, impatient again to reach Fort Tuli, and also to accomplish a " best on record " in the way of a trek. This latter feat we did easily, and it will be long before any traveller compasses the distance between Forts Tuli and Victoria (197 miles) in a shorter or in as short a period as five days and a half, the time occupied by us. Getting to Fort Tuli seemed like coming home again. The trek into and about Mashonaland, to which, on the 14th July, when leaving Tuli, I had looked forward with much hope and some anxiety, had been done. The truth about the country from many points of view had been fairly ascer- tained. Wonderful good fortune had attended us. Hardly a moment of misfortune or real trouble. Not a single moment of sickness or ill-health had been experienced by any of our large party. Day after day had glided by smoothly and pleasantly, the gipsy kind of camp life had become very fascinating, and we had had, what with sport and mining explorations, many hours full of pleasur- A RECORD "TREK." 311 able excitement. Nevertheless, this fact stamped itself somewhat disappointingly and sourly on my mind, that the great gold mine had not been dis- covered either by ourselves or by any other of the numerous exploring parties, and that the existence of any great gold mine in Mashonaland was still problematical. The Tuli river was now a vast expanse of burning sand, over which the breeze came upon you as if from the mouth of a furnace. Little threads and tiny pools of water might here and there with difficulty be detected. Fort Tuli itself and the surrounding settlement appeared in exactly the same condition as when I left it two months before. No new huts had been erected, no alterations or improvements made. No one stays at Fort Tuli who can help it; everybody passes on northwards. The strong force of Bechuanaland Border Police, under Sir F. Car- rington and his officers, who made the place rather lively three months before, had retired to Macloutsie, in their own territory. Some 200 men of the Chartered Company's police are now here, but it would be difficult to determine what useful occupation they are engaged in. Major Giles brought his ox waggon into Tuli in the early morning of the 6th November. He had accom- plished a still more remarkable " best on record " in the way of a trek than mine had been with mules ; for with oxen he had covered the distance in exactly seven days, or, in other words, had travelled at the rate of twenty-nine miles a day. So well were the oxen looking, so little exhausted 3i2 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. by their work, that I sold the whole span of eighteen on the day of their arrival at Tuli for 8/. a head. 1 write about these trek?, for trekking is a subject of great interest in South Africa, much rivalry and emulation exists among trekkers, and rapid journeys are announced, described, disputed, canvassed, and criticized with infinite freedom and fulness. From this place I was to proceed to Macloutsie, and from thence to Palapye, where resides Khama, the redoubtable Bechuana chief. From Palapye a few days' drive would bring me through Mafeking to Vryburg, where waggons, tents, " boys," naked savages, will be all forsaken for comfortable railway carriages, civilized hotels, daily newspapers, and other similar inestimable blessings which the traveller in wild parts of the earth gets on so well without, and yet is always for a time glad to return to. FROM TUI.I TO MACLOfTSIE. Page 313. OUR METHOD OF TRAVELLING. 313 CHAPTER XX. LOOKING BACK. 1 Our method of travelling Welcome and entertainment by the Bechuanaland Border Police at Macloutsie Palapye, the capital town of Chief Khama Lobengula, King of the Matabele Meditated flight of all his tribe and belongings The Bechuanaland Exploration Company Conversa- tion with Khama, Paramount Chief in the Protectorate PallaCamp The journey to Mafeking With Mr. Rhodes at Kimberley The agricultural and mineral resources of the Transvaal My advice to young Englishmen. THE journey from Tuli to Kimberley was per- formed by our party rapidly from a South African point of view. Mules and horses, some- what refreshed by a rest of two days, were in- spanned an hour before daybreak on the 7th November. Macloutsie was reached at mid-day on the 9th after a pleasant drive in fine weather through an attractive country along a compara- tively decent road. Our method of travelling was as follows. Aroused at about half-past three in the morning, the preparation of the coffee and the packing of the coach and " spider " occupied the best part of an hour. After trekking for two hours and a half, an outspan of an hour was necessary for the animals, and a light breakfast for ourselves was generally a welcome. Then another 1 This chapter was written two months after the author's return to England. Hence its title. 314 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. two or three hours' trek brought us to our midday halt. This lasted three, four, or five hours, according to the heat of the day. If the temperature was moderate, we generally contrived to manage three afternoon treks ; but often on the road south, the heat at midday was so great and the sand so heavy that only two treks, and sometimes only one, could be accomplished. The midday outspan was occupied with bathing, toilette and preparation of dinner. Our cook had been dismissed at Tuli, and the kitchen depart- ment had fallen into my hands. No very great variety in our repast was obtainable. Mutton boiled, baked, or curried, tinned soups, excellent when flavoured with Harvey or Worcester sauce, "bully beef," preserved vegetables, compose the daily meal. Fresh vegetables and fresh bread were sadly missed, but the former were not to" be procured, and none of us had acquired the art of baking bread. At times these midday halts were enjoyable when we were fortunate enough to hit upon a pleasant locality on the banks of a river and under shady trees. But when, as was often the case, water and shade were conspicuous by their absence, when one was melted by the heat and persecuted by the flies, passing the hours was weary work, and the cool of the evening was anxiously longed for. Between eight and nine p.m. the day's journey terminated, thirty to forty miles having been generally accomplished. A rough supper hastily bolted, a still more hurried retirement to bed, five brief hours of slumber WELCOME AT MACLOUTSIE. 315 prepared us for another clay's journey. So for the best part of three weeks we travelled, and hard travelling I found it to be. Sleep during the day-* time the flies never for an instant permitted. 0m* two servants were worked to death ; the constant unloading of the carriages for food or dressing for the night, the constant filling and refilling of the water-buckets, sometimes from half a mile to a mile having to be traversed for this purpose, made the day's toil very heavy for them. Moreover at every outspan the horses and mules were a subject of anxious care and observation. If, on being re- leased from the harness, they at once rubbed them- selves heartily in the dust or sand and commenced to graze, then all was well, but if they stood about or lay down, and were disinclined to feed, then well-grounded fears of a breakdown without a chance of assistance prevented us from being at all happy or cheerful. Before our arrival at Palla camp we had several bad half-hours on this account. At Macloutsie we experienced the most hospi- table welcome and entertainment from the officers of the Bechuanaland Border Police who have their headquarters here. The situation has been skil- fully selected both as regards strategic or sanitary conditions. The camp occupies a small elevated plateau, and overlooks and commands the surround- ing bush. No traveller can fail to be struck by the exceeding cleanliness and order, as well as by the excellent construction of the quarters of the officers and men. It would be difficult to speak 316 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. too highly of this force. No drinking, no idleness, no slovenliness can be detected; in this lonely spot, far away from civilization, day after day, throughout the long year, the members of this force manage to occupy all their time and to keep themselves in an irreproachable condition of efficiency and smartness. No 'duty or errand is repugnant to the Bechuanaland Border Police. A private will start off to ride two or three hundred miles through the bush with nothing but a haver- sack containing biscuit, tea and coffee, and a small patrol tin. So the whole force would march, if necessary, without tents, baggage or impedimenta of any sort or kind. A wonderful esprit de corps animates them. Two of the officers had just re- turned when I arrived, from a ten days' prowl all by themselves right into Lobengula's country, entered upon partly for survey purposes, partly for the obtaining of information : a service by no means devoid of peril performed in the most light-hearted but effectual manner. Here we tarried a night and a day, lodged in comfort- able huts and cheered by the comparative luxury of a well-kept mess. Major Gould Adams, the commanding officer, was in hospital, recovering, we were happy to learn, from a serious and pro- tracted attack of fever, contracted probably when guarding the drifts of the Limpopo against the Boer trekkers. Captain Sitwell displayed the efficiency of his force in a field-day performance specially ordered for our benefit and instruction. Some two hundred and fifty men, mounted on small A FIELD DAY 317 wiry horses in first-rate condition, scoured the bush at a gallop, to detect the presence of an enemy re- ported to be advancing from the north. Flying across the country in open order, they yet in obedience to bugle calls from time to time with marvellous rapidity contracted their line of advance. A small infantry detachment, dragging with it a Gatling or a Maxim gun, hurried along after the mounted men at thoir best speed over very rough ground. At length from an eminence the foe was descriec. The men dismounting, fire repeated volleys, the Maxim and Gatling pour out a destructive torrent of projectiles, and now comes up at a gallop a 7 Ibs. field-piece drawn by six horses, which quickly unlimbered looses off round after round of shell and shrapnell. The targets which represent the foe afterwards examined betray the skill and accuracy of riflemen and gunners alike. I doubted not, after witnessing this per- formance, that should Lobengula take it into his head to make a raid into the Protectorate, he will encounter from the Bechuanaland Border Police an uncomfortably warm reception. We were sorry to say good-bye to our hospitable hosts of the Bechuanaland Border Police at Macloutsie ; but having still over four hundred miles before us, we were compelled to hurry on. Major Gould Adams most kindly lent me six fresh mules, which replaced three horses and three mules which I was obliged to leave here. Two of these horses so left, died of horse sickness almost immediately after our departure. I never heard 318 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. what became of the other animals. The journey from Macloutsie to Palapye occupied four days. The country traversed was in parts most attractive, but the mid-day heat, the swarms of flies, and the heavy sand through which we had to labour were found exhausting to the teams as well as to the travellers. The last thirty miles of road into Palapye is mostly of a terrible character. The wheels of the carriages sink into the sand up to the axles, while the road is obstructed by boulders and rocks of every description and size, many of which, concealed by the sand, cannot be avoided, and the consequent jolting and straining, and peril to springs and wheels, is great. Some hours of this journeying on a very hot day took it out of us all. When Palapye was reached about five o'clock in the afternoon of the 13th November, the mules in the teams of either carriage could scarcely stir a limb. A twenty-four hours' rest was imperative. Palapye, the capital of Khama, chief of the Bangmangwato, and paramount chief in the Protectorate, stands on an elevated plateau. It is probably the most thickly populated native town in South Africa. Groups of native huts, closely packed, built without order or alignment, sheltering upwards of thirty-five thousand souls, straggle away in every direction as far as the eye can reach. A large patch of green sward, sur- rounded by lofty trees and covered with animals, poultry and children, reminds one strangely of all English village green. The inhabitants are an well-clothed, wear a prosperous appearance, and A POWERFUL CHIEF. 319 pay but little attention to the white traveller or passing ox-waggons. No alcoholic drink is per- mitted by Khama to find its way into his territories, or under any circumstances to be sold in his towns. The penalties for violating this law are most severe, and are severely enforced. Constant raids by Khama's police, sometimes led by Khama in person, swoop down upon all prostitutes and immoral persons, who are forthwith banished from the town. Khama governs justly and severely, but without cruelty. Human life is, I believe, never taken. His authority is purely despotic, undis- puted, unrestrained, but exercised with wisdom has secured for him the affectionate respect of his people. He is the most powerful chief in South Africa with the exception of Lobengula, King of the Matabele, nor would it be possible to predict with any assurance the result of a conflict between these two potentates. The soldiers of the Matabele army are possibly more brave and ferocious than the Bangmangwato, but the latter possess a con- siderable advantage in their numbers of mounted warriors, of which the Matabele are entirely destitute. In the event of Lobengula attacking the British settlers in Mashonaland, Khama could almost certainly be persuaded to go at him and to effect a powerful diversion. Khama and the British Government have reciprocally benefited each other. The Protectorate was submitted to and English authority acknowledged without resistance, mainly owing to the friendly attitude of Khama. On the other hand, his authority has 320 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA been strengthened by British assistance and good offices, and, confident in British support, he no longer fears his enemy Lobengula. As to tha probable conduct of Lobengula in the future, I procured some interesting information from an English gentleman long resident at Pala- pye, whose father dwells at Baluwyo. In his opinion Lobengula has long meditated a flitting with all his tribe and belongings, into the country north of the Zambesi, where he calculates to cany on with ease an unrestrained and exterminating war of conquest. The great difficulty in the way of this policy is the transportation of the immense herds of cattle and sheep, the property of the monarch and his people, across the broad and rapid Zambesi. But my informant thought that, as white settlers and merchants multiplied, and as British influence and domination increased, Loben- gula would get more and more uneasy, more bent and resolute, on his policy of migration towards the north. But my informant felt certain that before any such migration actually took place, Loben- gula would make himself, or would allow his young men to make, a last dying effort as it were against the white people, when much bloodshed and massacre might occur. It is not, however, likely that the British authorities will not obtain ample notice beforehand of the imminence of any such attack. Khama possesses in his rival's city many and various channels of sure information. Nor are the Administrator of Bechuanaland or the police force by any means poorly provided for in this THE BECHUANALAND EXPLORATION COMPANY. 321 respect. But I expect that for a long time yet it will be necessary for the British settlers in Mashonaland and north of the Crocodile river to exercise the utmost caution, not only as to their conduct towards the Matabele, but also as to the preparation of measures for concentrated resistance in the event of an outbreak of savage fury. The Bechuanaland Exploration Company, which does a large and profitable trading business throughout these parts of Africa, has its northern headquarters at Palapye. From their agents we experienced the utmost kindness ; nor among the least of the luxuries they offered was a brandy and soda, which, besides being the first I had been able to get for many weeks, was, to a traveller suffocated by heat and choked by dust, sweeter than any heavenly nectar. I must add that the brandy bottle was produced from a recess under the bed, in one of the huts occupied by the agent, where, in deference to Khama's teetotal proclivities, it was carefully concealed. Nor can I omit to mention another great luxury here enjoyed for the first time for more than five months, to wit, a night's repose between a pair of sheets. The Bechuana- land Exploration Company have here a large and well-supplied store, where we procured many articles of which we stood in need. In the morning I witnessed a curious spectacle. Many hundreds of Khama's people who had been employed by the South African Chartered Company during a period of four months in laying the telegraph wire through Mashonaland were now paid off. A large quantity Y 322 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. of gold and silver coin had been brought up by an officer of the Bechuanaland Border Police from Mafeking, and was by him distributed to this immense crowd with the utmost order, accuracy, and general content. Some of the sub-chiefs received very considerable sums of money from their people, ranging as high as 150Z. The store did a roaring trade, and till evening the natives kept passing our encampment on their way home, laden with blankets and beads, and very many I noticed carrying brand-new Martini-Henry rifles. Palapye is a great emporium for horns, skins, karrosses, and native curios, and I added some fine specimens of these former articles to the collection I had already formed in Mashonaland. In the evening of the 14th November, about half an hour prior to our departure, my servant came to inform me that the chief Khama had come to visit our encampment. I hurried to welcome him, and found myself in the presence of a tall, slight man of apparently about forty years of age. Khama is, I believe, a good deal older. He was dressed in a suit of woollen stuff of English make, and looked like a coloured manager of a factory in India, or of a cotton plantation. A very intelligent countenance, an agreeable and kind expression, an erect attitude and dignified manners mark the monarch, the minister and the father of the people. Our conversation on com- monplace topics, lasting about a quarter of an hour, was carried on by the interpretation of Mr. Seeker, agent of the Bechuanaland Exploration Com- pany. At the close Khama graciously intimated CONVERSATION WITH KHAMA. 323 that he would like to make me a present, and inquired if I would accept one. I replied that any memorial of him would be most welcome and valuable to me ; he then took his leave, galloping off on a fine bay horse which he rode with grace, fol- lowed by his equerry, and looking, I thought, in that position a king all over. Shortly after a messenger arrived, bringing me from the chief a large karross, made of leopard skins of a quality and fineness such as a great chief would alone possess or be able to procure. I sent Khama in return a large silver flask, which I told him was my " water bottle," and which I hoped he might sometimes use in his hunting expeditions, as a souvenir of an English traveller and friend. Then we departed for Palla Camp. The road leaving Palapye for the south is even worse on account of deep sand and rocks than the approach before mentioned. To save our mules during a trek of twenty miles through this ground, we had inspanned into the "spider" and coach two teams of oxen. All through the night we travelled, our mules driven along slowly behind at their ease. At daybreak, after an outspan, we resorted to our mules, now much rested and refreshed, and made good progress through some beautiful bush country, until at noon on the 17th November we reached Palla Camp. Here is a telegraph station, a small police detachment and a good store. Leaving Palla early the next morning, about 10 a.m. we met the up-country mail, in which was Mr. Harber, the mail superintendent of the Bechuanaland Exploration Company, who had Y 2 324 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. been very kindly sent by the agents of the com- pany, to take charge of our party from here, and to supply us with fresh relays of mules. At first when reaching the post stations, Mr. Harber could only provide an occasional fresh mule, and we toiled along rather wearily and very slowly, owing to the heavy sand, to Machudi's Kraal or Lenchwe, as it is sometimes called. On the day before reaching this place, Mr. Harber and I saw from the "spider" ahead of us a large snake lying in the road. Out we jumped, I with my revolver he with a formid- able " sjambok " to slay the reptile. This snake made off into the bush with such celerity and such, twistings that I discharged all the barrels of my revolver at it in vain. Mr. Harber, however, arrested its progress with a blow from the thong of the sjambok. It reared up, opening wide its mouth at us and hissing, a grand object. Fortu- nately, owing to the length of the sjambok, it could not reach Mr. Harber, who almost immedi- ately laid it low with a well-directed blow, the thong catching it tight round the neck. A bite from this most venomous of African snakes would have been certainly fatal in less than an hour. It was a puff-adder of immense size, measuring seven feet, with a body thicker than my wrist. At Machudi's a native kraal, in- habited by a tribe only second to Khama's in in- fluence and numbers, and governed by a chief of evil reputation, our travel troubles terminated. Here our heavy coach was to be left. Major Giles and the doctor would travel in a smaller and ARRIVAL AT MAFEKING. 325 lighter vehicle, which, together with the " spider," was to be taken along from here entirely by the company's teauis. We reached Machudi's not a moment too soon ; our own animals could not have gone another yard without a rest of several days. But it seemed as if fate was against us. The river Notwani here to be traversed was found high in flood and perfectly impassable, in which state it might remain for a week or more. I went to bed with a heavy heart, anxious about the future of our journey south. In the morning I was cheered by the news that the river had rapidly subsided, and that Mr. Rhodes and his party, also being con- veyed by the Bechuanaland Exploration Company, had passed us, crossed the river, and gone on in the night. From here we proceeded rapidly and gaily, finding fresh teams of mules every two or three hours, passing through G-aberones, a station of the Bechuanaland Border Police, where we received the usual most bountiful hospitality, through Ramoutsa, an important post station, across beautiful green pastures, through succeeding forest, wood and bush, everything looking bright and verdant and glistening, owing to recent heavy rains, through Ramatlabama on to our goal, Mafeking, which we reached in the afternoon of Monday, the 23rd November. At Mafeking, Dixon's Hotel, an establishment of the greatest merit, soon enabled us to forget the troubles and fatigues of our long journey of a thousand miles from Fort Salisbury. The railway will soon be extended to this pleasant and attractive 326 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. settlement. It lies in the centre of a boundless grassy plain, at this time of year (November) very green and fertile. Bechuanaland is destined, I imagine, in time to become the great ranching ground of South Africa. Skilful engineering in the placing and making of dams, would by storage overcome the only obstacle, viz. the scarcity of water. We had to remain at Mafeking two days. A drive of one hundred miles still separated us from Vryburg, the railway terminus. The passage of Mr. Rhodes and his party had absorbed the coaching resources of the Bechuanaland Explora- tion Company. The mail service up country as far as Tuli is excellently earned on by this company. Passengers are also conveyed by them, the distance from Vryburg to Tuli, upwards of five hundred miles, being compassed by the mail coach in less than eight days. The company have large numbers of mules, all kept in first-rate condition, and have constructed post stations at intervals of twenty miles along the road, where are wells and stores of forage. If I were going again to Fort Salisbury, I should make arrangements with this company for my journey, instead of resorting to the large, very costly and cumbrous expedition which ignorance of the country let me in for. A traveller, by making use of the present mail service and by procuring from the company a special service north of Fort Tuli, could journey from London to Fort Salisbury and back in a period of four months. Of course if the Beira Pungwe railway were constructed the journey could be WITH MR. RHODES AT KIMBERLEV. 327 accomplished in half that time. The distance between Mafeking and Vryburg was covered in a day. Starting at 3.30 p.m., the relays and mail teams taking us along with unusual rapidity, we reached Vryburg at 8.30 in the evening. Oh ! the comfort and luxury of the railway, after seven months of travelling in coaches and waggons. A week was pleasantly passed at Kimberley, where I was the guest of Mr. Rhodes. No change could be noted here. The concen- tration of the diamond industry into the hands of a single company has cramped the develop- ment of this town. But there is there a hospi- table and amiable society, and the most comfortable and well-managed club I have ever come across in my numerous travels. Captain Tyson, the secretary of this club, is a perfect providence to the English visitor. So once more in Capetown, where I whiled away three weeks waiting for Mr. Perkins, the mining expert, to rejoin me from Johannesburg where he had been engaged in a second minute examination of the gold-field of Witwatersrand. The rest and the comparative idleness after so many weeks of hard and rough travel, and above all the gracious hospitality extended to me by his Excellency the High Commissioner and Governor, were enjoyable beyond description. Time was now ample for reflection and retrospect, nor were materials for such wanting. The following problem continually presented itself to me : How could the paucity of British population in the Cape Colony, and in South Africa generally, be accounted for ? 328 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. Soil and climate equal to that of Australia, vastly superior to that of Canada, should have attracted a constant stream of emigrants, either to the Cape, Bechuanaland, to the Transvaal or to Natal. Such for some reason or other has not been the case. Possibly the Dutch element so predominant throughout South Africa is unfavourable to rapid enterprise, possibly the large amount of cheap native labour conflicts with the attainment of a very high standard of colonial prosperity and strength. Whether it be so or not, the question presents itself for study. In Australia and Canada many millions of population, mainly drawn from British sources ; in South Africa from the Cape to the Zambesi, a territory of vast expanse, with miles of fertile pastures most suitable to cattle and sheep, with acres of land capable of producing abundant crops of grain, with forests giving most valuable and excellent timber, with mines of every metal, and with large deposits of coal, is inhabited at present by about half a million of white people, not more than two-thirds of which are of British origin. The most sanguine dreamer can hardly over- estimate the agricultural and mineral resources of the Transvaal. Before the end of the year the railway will have superseded the ox waggon, Johannesburg and Pretoria will be connected with the railway systems of Cape Colony and of Natal. This should produce a rapid and large increase of population and of mining industry. Probably in the history of mining, no gold-field more AGRICULTURAL AND MINERAL RESOURCES. 329 important than the Witwatersrand has ever been discovered. When I passed through Johannesburg in June, 1891, the monthly output of gold from its mines was 54,000 ounces. At the time of writing this has risen to 86,000 ounces. Three causes will contribute to sustain and swell this remarkable development. 1. The general introduction into the mines of the compressed air rock-drilling machinery, and a consequent large increase in the amount of auriferous ore extracted, together with a saving in the charge for labour. 2. The marked success of the chemical processes for treating tailings, with a consequent large increase in the amount of gold actually won. 3. The construction of the railway to Johannesburg, with a consequent large decrease in working expenses, and in the cost of living. There is now before many if not all of the Witwatersrand mines an amount of auriferous ore practically in sight which can exhaust the energies of at least another generation of men. Of the silver deposits near Johannesburg no absolutely definite and precise allegation can be made. Their promise is good, and almost warrants the speculation that some day the silver mining industry will rival if not surpass in importance the gold-mining industry of the Randt. It is to the Transvaal wealth that I look for the attraction which may ere long thickly populate South Africa. It is impossible not to regret that a policy as some say of prudence, as others say of cowardice, com- pelled Great Britain to give up her direct authority over this land, but the riches of the 330 MEN, MINES, AND ANIMALS IN SOUTH AFRICA. world are there in abundance, nor is it in the power of a feeble, corrupt and almost insolvent Boer Government to prevent or to delay for long these riches being largely distributed among man- kind. Pages I could write in praise of South Africa, but fortunately want of space arrests me. To the young, vigorous and versatile British emigrant, I can recommend the country as a place where the means of ease and affluence can be acquired rapidly, if only fortune smiles; to the traveller in search of health, distraction, amuse- ment, sport, beauty of scenery, excellence of climate, I can recommend it as being the region of the world most favoured by nature, either for the residence or the industry, or the wanderings of man. THE END. INDEX. ADDEBLEY Street. Cape Town, 19. Africa, coaching in, 53-4 : equip- ment of an expedition for, 117- 121 ; hunting the lion in, 161-2 ; cost of a six months' hunting expedition in, 216-8 ; a genuine stickfast in, 221-2, 257. Agriculture in Mashonaland, 276- 7; at Hartley Hill, 284; in Transvaal, 328-9. Alcohol in the Transvaal> 92 ; at Palapye, 319. " Alice " reef, Mazoe Valley, 235- 6. Amatongaland, 28. Amusements on the Grantully Castle, 11, 12. Antelope, 150-5,158,165-170, 185, 199, 211, 214, 218, 220-6, 228, 233, 249-262, 267 ; see also Ues- bok, buck, harte-beest, gazelle, koodoos, springbok, &c. Armament required for hunting expedition in South Africa, 217. Athletic sports on the Orantully Castle, 12, 13. Auction at Fort Salisbury, 247, 284-6. "BABOON," the (Lee's boy), 147, 150, 153-9, 2.5-9, 232, 253-9, 262. Baboons, 243, 258. Bads loop, 98. Baluwyo, 320. Bangmangwato tribe, 318, 319. Basutoland, government of, 27. Beale's Camp, 221, 22*5. Bechuanaland, government of, 27, 326 ; native reserve in, 50- 52; Border Police of, 105-8, 124, 129, 132, 136, 142, 144, 191, 300, 311, 315-7, 322; Sir Charles Warren and, 124. Bechuanaland Exploration Com- pany, 321-6. Beit, Mr. Alfred, 143, 191, 210, 233, 242-3, 265, 270, 272. Benett-Stanford, Mr., 7-9. Benkes, Mr., 86-7. " Birthday" mine, the, 99. Blaudy and Co., Madeira, 9. Blesbok, 75, 76. " Bless," horse named, 184, 186, 189. Blue ground extracted at Kim- berley, 41. Boers in the Transvaal, 22-25 ; at Johannesburg, 60-64, 72 ; and game, 75 ; the Transvaal Par- liament, 81 ->*8 ; idea of justice, 88-92 ; trek by, into Mashona- land, 88-9, 93, 103-110; and Swaziland, 92-4 ; as farmers, 94-5 ; and wells 102. Borrow. Mr., 218, 239, 243, 296, 298 ; see also Johnson, Heaney and JB'irruw. Botanical Gardens at Lisbon, 7; at Cape Town, 18. Botany, garden at Madeira, 8-9 ; the petuna, 258. Bread a luxury in the bush, 180. Breakwater at Cape Town, 19. British Chartered South African Company. 22. 2fi, 104, 105, 108 ; 332 INDEX. police of, 111-112, r>4; at Fort Victoria, 190-192; 196-7, 205, 231 ; huts of, 206; at Port Salis- bury, 2*2-9; police of, 2!9, 300. Bubjane River, 156, 175, 176. Bnbye River, 150. Bucks. 142, 144, 145, 173, 211, 214, 217,218, 220, 228, 250, 266, 294. Bnfflesdorn Mine, 57. Buildings at Foit Salisbury, 282. Bullock-vehicle, Madeira, 9. Bultfontein Mine, see De Been Co. Bnluroyo, 268. Bush fires, 187-8, 308. Byl, Mr. Van der, 302. CAMERON. General, 28-31. Camp by moonlight, our, 144. Camp fire concert at Fort Tuli, 124-5. Cape de Verde, 9. Cape Town, arrival at, 15-17 ; buildings in, 17-19 ; quietness of, 19, 20 ; environs of, 21 ; as a coaling station, 28; defences of, 29-30; garrison at, 31; de- parture from, 32-33. Capper, Captain, and the new magazine rifle, 113-5. Carbolic oil, usefulness of, 102. Carrington, Sir Frederick, 106-8, 110-112, 125, 142, 144, 252, 311. Cattle disease, 51. Cattle of Boers, 94 ; at Fort Vic- - toria, 190. " Charlie," shooting pony, 158, 186. Chimpanzees, 7. Chlorination process, the, 66-70. Churchill, Lord R., journey to Cape Town. 1-16 ; Cape Colony, 17-33 ; at Kimberley, 34-49 ; at Johannesburg, 50-78 ; and the Transvaal, 79-95; the journey to Fort Tuli, 96-125 ; and the lions, 158-174; the journey to Fort Victoria, 175-192; from Fort Victoria to Fort Salisbury, 193-211 ; sport in Mashonaland, 212233, 24<>-2<>2; the Mazo Valley gold district, :i3 1-2*5; and wealth of Mashonaland, 263-275 ; at Fort Salisbury, 276- 2f)4 ; the journey home, 295- 327; advice to emigrants, 328- :<30. Climate of Cape Town, 17, 21; of the Karroo plain, 35-6 ; of Transvaal, 68, 72, 81, 124; of Pretoria, 82 ; at Fort Tnli, 124 ; of Mashonaland, 198-9 ; at Fort Salisbury, 206; of Mashona- land, 293, 301. Coaches and coaching in South Africa, 52-5, 298-9. Coal mines near Johannesburg, 74. Coaling station, Cape Town as a, 28, 29. Colquhoun, Mr., 200. Concerts at Fort Tnli, 124-5 ; at Palla Camp, 131. Concessions in the Transvaal, 64. Cooking of venison, the, 220-1. Corruption in the Transvaal, 64. Cost of a six months' hunting ex- pedition in South Africa, 216-8. Coventry, Honourable Charles, 119, 153, 233, 265. Crocodile River, see Limpopo River. Crocodiles, 130. Cruelty of Boers, 88-92. Cyanide of potassium process, 66, 69, 70. DAMARALAND, 28, 52. Dartmouth, 1, 5. De B.-er, Mr., 86-7. De Beers' Company, the, at Kim- berley, 38-48, 191. Deer, preservation of, 76 Defences of Cape Town, the, 28- 31. Desolation, a time of, 138 9. Diamond industry at Kimberley, 36-49. Docks at Cape Town, 19. INDEX. 333 Doctors, lack of, in Mashonaland, 202-3. DOKS, advice about, for South Africa, 102 ; our, 160, 168. Donkeys, 266. Dutch in Cape Town, the English and, 22-25, 328. Dutch Parliament, the, at Pre- toria, 83-88. Du Toits Pan mine, see De Seers Co. Dynamite, a monopoly, 64. EDGELL, MB., 116, 117, 134, 136, 143, 230, 265. "Eiffel" district, the, 265, 270. Elands, 199, 218, 225, 233, 239, 259-262. Elebi, 135. Electric light in the De Beers Mine, 48 ; in the Robinson Gold Mine, 65. Elephants, 147. Emigrant, Mashonaland for the, 237-8; South Africa for the, 330. English and Dutch in Cape Town, the, 22-25. Exploration Company Syndicate, 244-5. Expedition, the, composition aud equipment, 116-121 ; sale of effects of, 281-6. Eytings, 99. FAIRYLAND, a veritable, 103. Farmer, the Boer as a, 94-5, 192. Feathered game in the Transvaal, 76. Fern Spruit, 185, 186-8, 306. Ferreira, Col., 109, 191. Ferreira Mine, the, 69. Fever at Palla Camp, 129; at Lundi River Camp, 181-3: at Fort Victoria, 190 ; in Mashona- land, 203, 237-8. Fire on board the Qrantully Castle, 13.15. Fires.. Veldt, 187-8, 230, 308. "Fly" (grey gelding), loss of, 182. Flying fish, 10. Footpads in Johannesburg, 60. Fort Charter, 191, 195-8, 200-203. Fort Salisbury, 193, 200-8, 211, 218, 230-6, 238, 243, 258, 274, 281-298, Fort Tuli, 96, 109, 110-116, 142, 291, 310-13. Fort Victoria, 189, 193, 201-3, 280, 291, 300-310. Fort Wynyard, 30. Fraser, Messrs., rifle made by, 118. Frere, Sir Bartle, 24. Funchal Bay, 7. GABERONES Station, 325. Game in Transvaal, 102 ; on South Africa veldt, 150-2. Garrison at Cape Town, the, 31 ; at Fort Charter, 202. Gascoigne, Major, 103. Gazelles, 225. Gideon (boy), 149. Gilfard, Mr., 289. Giles, Major George, 3, 4, 116-7, 122, 130-132, 136, 145, 153, 170, 174, 176, 181, 186, 193, 265, 266, 298,306, 309, 311,324 ; accident to, 230 ; and the horse sickness, 121-3. Gircane, 133, 173, 218. Gladstone, Mr., 5, and the Trans- vaal War, 23-25. Gold near Hartley Hill, 200; in Mashonaland, 207-211,236, 271, 277-281 ; see also Mazoe, &c. ; round Fort Victoria, 302-3. Gold-field of Witwatersrand, 327- 9. Gold mines in Johannesburg, 59, 63-73, 79-81. " Golden Quarry " mine, 243, 297, 307. Goold- Adams, Major, 108-10, 316, 317. Government House, Cape Town, 18. 334 INDEX. Government buildings at Pre- toria, 83. Governments in South Africa, various forms of, 25-28. Grnham, Mr., 264. Grahamstown Mine, the, 71. Grantully Castle, voyage in the, 5-16. Guns, breech-loading at Cape Town, 29-31. Gweebi River, 239. HAMPDEN, Mount, 207, 211, 239, 241, 295. Harber, Mr., 323, 324. Harris, Dr. Rutherford, 288-290. Hanebeests, 140, 155, 199, 214, 219, 222-6, 232, 233, 250-4, 266, 268. Hartley Hill, gold district of, 200, 208, 209, 236, 237, 246-7, 253, 258, 262, 263-274, 279. Hex River, 34 ; Pass, 34-5. Hippopotami, 258, 294. Honey bird, the, 147. Hopley, Mr., 284. Horse-racing at Fort Salisbury, 289, 290. Horse sickness in Africa, 51, 121, 127-8, 136, 176-7, 181, 183, 186, 190-2, 309, 315. Hotel accommodation, in the Transvaal, 55-6 ; at the Warm Baths, Pretoria, 98, at Pieters- burg, 101. Hot springs near Worcester, 34 ; near Pretoria, 98. House-breakers in Johannesburg, 60. Hunting in South Africa, 212-8. Hnnyani Ri , 204, 268, 316-320, see also Matabele. Loch, Sir Henry, 2. Logan, Mr. J. D., 35-6. Lo-Magundi district, 271, 279, 281. Long's Mine, 306. Lost in the veldt, 138-141, 252-3. Lotsani River, 134, 136. Lottery on board Grantully Castle, 11. Lundi River, 174, 176, 179, 181, 184, 302, 308-9. McABTHUB-FoRREST process, the, 66-70. Mactmdi's Kraal, 324-5. Mackay, Mr., 116, 117, 122, 131, 134, 136, 143, 153, 265,266, 270, 280. Macloutsie, 136, 311-318. Madeira, 7-9. Mafeking, 49, 126, 312, 325-6. Magazine rifle, the new, 112-115. Magistrates in Mashonaland, 290. Mahalopsie River, 131. Majuba Hill, 23, 24. Makala tribe, 153. Malarial fever, see Fever. Mammoth River, 271. Manicaland, 104; gold district, 207, 236-7, 269, 274, 280, 294. Mariko River, 128. Marico district, the, 192. Maripi, 128. Marks & Co., estate of, 76-8. Marriage in Mashonaland, 248-9. Martini-Henry rifle, the, com- pared to the new magazine rifle, 113-5. Mary Pioneer mine, the, 297. Mashonaland, 2, 4 ; and the Boers, 85-6, 93; wealth of, 175; the best part of, 183; climate and soil of, 198-9 ; from a mining point of view, 209, 293 ; emigration io, 237-8 ; wealth and fertility of, 269, 271, 276-281; natives' dress, 286; postal communication in, 290. Massi Kessi, skirmish near, 104- 5, auO. Matabele, raids of the, 202, 204, 205, 241, 321 ; see also Loben- gula. Matabeleland, 25, 26, 28, 52, 86, 110; women, 128-9; tree in, 160. Matchless mine, the, 279. Matjesfontein, 35. Matlaputta River, 136. Maunde, Mr., 179, 180. Maxim gun at Fort Tuli, 109, 112 ; at Macloutsie, 317. Mazoe River gold district, 200, 208, 210,233, 234, 237-246, 269, 274, 279, 295-7. Menu at hotel in Transvaal, 55-6. Mineral resources, of Matabele- land, 25; of Transvaal, 100, 3-28-9; of Mashonaland, 278- 281. Mines, see De Be*r* Co., Robinson Co., Kimberley, &c. Mines Dear Kimberley, 57; in Johannesburg, 58-TO, 65-75. Mining in the Zoutspanbnrg die- trict, 99, 100. Mockell, Mr , 117. 336 INDEX. Monkeys, 7 ; see also baboon*, chimpanzees. Montgomery, Sergeant Major, 289. Morier, Mr. Victor, 103-5. Morrison's store, 103. Mountains, some miniature, 179- *0. Mount Marias mine, 99. Mules, driving a team of, 53. Mules, onr, 143, 156, 176-7; habits of, 148-9, 182, 191-2, 199, 203, 308, 315, 317. Mnrohison district, 99. Myberg, Mr., 117, 149, 157, 166- 9, 179, 182, 184. NATAL, Government of, 26. Native market, 153-4. Native reserve in Bechuanaland, 51. Natives as servants, 194-5, 247-8. Natural History Museum, Cape Town, 18, 19. Nelmapius, Mr., 100. Notorious diamond thief, a, 46-7. Notwani Biver, 325. Nylstrom, 98. ORANGE Free State, 27. Ornithology Bittern. 77. Bustards 36, 76, 225. Cranes, 76, 78. Doves, 101. Duck, 78, 127, 130. Kagle, 77. Guinea fowls, 101-2, 137, 139. Honey-bird, the, 147. Koran. 36, 55, 77, 78. Partridges, 36, 55, 77, 78, 101. Pheasants, 101, 137, 139, 142, 144. Pigeons, 77. Plovers, 55, 77-8. Quails, 36, 77-8. Snipe, 77-8. Teal, 130. Vultures, 55, 75, 229. Ornithology (continued) Wild fowl, 77. Wild turkey, 78, 239. Ostriches, 183-4, 199, 218, 239, 259, 260. Outfit necessary for hunting ex- pedition, 216-7. Oxen, loss of, 63 ; our, at Tnli, 123, 143, 146, 184, 230 j habits of, 148-9. PA ABL, old town of French origin, 33-4. Paddington Station, 1, 5. Paddington man, a, 35. Palapye, 312, 318-323. Palla Camp, 129, 315, 323. Palmitsfontein mine, the, 99. Panonse, Count de la, 243. Papenfn, Mr., 284. Paris Exhibition, diamond ex- hibited at, 42. Paritj, estate near, 76. Pelapswe, 136. Pennefather, Colonel, 104, 207. Perkins, Mr. H. C., 4, 97, 210, 211, 234, 235, 238-247, 253, 265-7, 271, 274-5, 287, 298, 307, 327. Personnel of Expedition, 116-121. Pietersbnrg, 99-101. Plains in Africa, see Veldt, Police, at Johannesburg, 60; at Fort Salisbury, 290; the Beo- hnaualand Border, 105-8, 124, 129, 136, 142, 144, 300 ; of the B.S.A.C. Co., 299, 30J. Politics in England, 2; in South Africa, 25-2d. Poll tax in the Transvaal, 62. Pondoland, 27. Port Elizabeth, 19. Portuguese, skirmish with, near Massi Kessi, 104-5, 110, 300. Postal Communication in Ma- shonaland, -!'0. Potchefstrom, 57. Power of President Krnger, 87-8. Preservation of deer, 76. Pretoria, 82, 97, 328 ; taxation in, INDEX. 337 61-2 ; Dutch Parliament at, 83- 88. Prospecting Mashon aland, 278. Providence Gorge, 189. Provisions required for a six months' hunting expedition, 217-8. Pullen's " Winkel" in the Trans- vaal, 55-6. "Pulsator" machine, De Beers Mine, 42. Pnngwe River and route, 104-5, 209, 279, 294, 298. QUAGGAS, 147, 150, 165-171, 214, 218. RAILWAYS in the Transvaal, 49, 50, 63, 73, 80, 328-9. Rains, heavy, 145, 177, 237-8, 300 ; scarcity of, 136. Ramatlabana, 126, 325. llamoutsa, 325. Randt gold-field, the, 71, 72, 74. llayner, Surgeon Hugh, 4, 126, 144, 186, 203, 265-8, 298, 324. Reptiles, see Snakes. Reserve for Natives in Bechuana- land, 51. Rhinoceros, 294. Rhodes, Mr. Cecil, 2, 22-4, 95-7 ; 200, 288, 293-7, 305, 325-7 j and the De Beers Co., 38. Rhodes's Drift, 105, 107. Rifle, the new magazine, 112-5. Roads, in the Transvaal, 54, 63-4 ; between Fort Victoria and Fort Charter, 299, 300. Robinson Gold Mine, the, 65-9. Rolker, Mr., 209, 234-5, 242, 246, 247, 253, 265, 287. Romilly, Mr. Hugh, 191. "Ruby," horse named, 186. Rustemburg Goal, 88-91. Rylands and Fry, Messrs., 173, 176. SALARY of members of Dutch Par- liament, 87. Salisbury, Lord, 29. Salisbury Gold Mine, the, 70. Sandpits, 127. Sanitary Board at Johannesburg, 61-2. Sapte, Major, 103-4. Saroe River, 258. Saur, Dr., 132-134. Search room at Kimberley dia- mond mines, 45. Seeker, Mr., 322. Selous, Mr., the hunter, 18, 207. Semalali River, 137. Sequana, 128. Servants, our native, 194-5, 247- 8. Shave by a Hindoo barber, 134. Sheep in the Transvaal, 51 j sheep scab, 51. Shepstone, Sir T., 24. Shippard, Sir Sydney, 52. Shooting in South Africa, 212-8. Silika, 132. "Simmer and Jack" gold mine, 70. Simon, Dr., 69, 70. Simon's Bay, defence of, 30. Sinclair, Mr., 127. Sitwell, Captain, 316. " Skoff," 132, 134. Slater, Mr., 284, 289. Smitsdorp, 99. Snakes, 213 ; a cobra, 227 ; scor- pions, 275 ; a puff adder, 324. Soil, in the Transvaal, 80-81; of Pretoria, 83; of Mashonaland, 198-9, 238, 276-7 ; at Fort Salis- bury, 206 ; at Hartley Hill, 263. South Africa for invalids, 15, 16; trekking in, 312 ; for emi- grant, 330. " South Africa," a number of, 128- 9. South African Republic, 22, 24. Speculation in gold mines, 281. " Spider," the, travelling by, 100, 105, 176-8, 182. Sport on the Karroo plain, 36 ; in the Transvaal, 75-8; with Sir F. Carrington, 142-4 ; on the veldt, 147-152 ; see also Zoology, &c. 333 INDEX. Springbok, 36, 75, 76, 78. Stanhope, Mr. (Secretary of State for War), 30, 32; and the new maprazine rifle, 112-115. Stickfast, a genuine African, 221- 2, 257. Stock Exchange, London, and Johannesburg gold mines, 59. Suchi River, 136. Sugar Loaf Mountain, 179, 180. " Susanna " reef, Mazoe valley, 295-6. Swallows, 10. Swaziland, government of, 27; the Boers and, 92-4, 110. TABLE BAV, 15 ; defences of, 29. Table Mountain and Bay, 15, 17. Tagus River, 6, 7. Tatagora River, 239. Taxation in the Transvaal, 61-2. Tati gold-fields, 49, 50. Taxes in Fort Salisbury, 292. Telegraph wire at Maclo-ntsie, 136 ; to Fort Victoria, 145, 305- 6 ; at Fort Salisbury, 291. Telephones fixed in the De Beers Mine, 48. Temperature at Fort Tnli, 124; at night, 126 ; at Hartley Hill, 264, 268. Terra Santa, Island of, 7. Theft of diamonds at Kimberley, 44-7. Tbief, a notorious diamond, 46-7. Thorns, 130. Ticks, dogs and, 102. Tiriki (servant), 248-0, 303-5. Tokvre River, 302. Towlu Mount, 155, 157. Transvaal, the, 27, 50, 52, 81-2; hotel accommodation in, 55-6 ; Silver Mines Co., 74 ; deer and feathered game in, 76-8 ; gov- ernment at Pretoria, 83-8S ; Boer justice, 88-91 ; natives in, 92; Boer farmers in, 94-5; mineral resources of, 100, 328- 9. Transvaal War, the, 22-25. Trees, at Madeira, 8, 9, 130; in Transvaal, 73, 81, 97; a, in Matabeleland, 160; in Ma- shonaland, 240-1; "Cream of Tartar " tree, 103 ; elephant fruit tree, 147; mahogany tree, 155 ; snake tree, 159 ; mognndi tree, 224; makoona tree, 254; wild fig-tree. 258. Trek by Boers into Mashonaland. 85-6, 93, 108-110 ; from Vryburg to Tuli, 121-2; through the bush, 146; a record, 310, 311, 314. Tuli River, 96, 143 ; see also Fort Tuli. Turner, Captain, 190. Tye, Major, 110. Tyson, Captain, 327. UMFTJLI RIVER, 200, 208, 221, 225, 263, 271. Umfuli River, the upper, 203, 204, 215, 238. Dmjinge River, 153, 156. Umsajbetsi River, 148. Umsawe River, 177. Umshane River, 150. Umswezi River, 266, 270, 279. Umtala, 283, 294. Umzingwani River, 145, 148, 310. Ushant, off, 5. VAAL RIVER, 76. Vehicle drawn by bullocks in Madeira, 9. Vehicles for African Expedition, 120. Veldt, the, from Kimberley to Vryburg, 50-51 ; round Pre- toria, 83-97 ; round Pieteraburp, 101-2 ; lost in the, 138-141, 150- 2, 157, 251-3 ; bush veldt, 179 ; fire, 187-8, 204, 212, 24!); be- tween Fort Salisbury and Hart- ley Hill, 258. Viandt, a Boer named, 183-4. Victoria Falls of the Zambesi, 50. Vigilance Committee at Fort Salisbury, 287-9. INDEX. 339 Vrybnrg, 49-52, 121, 312, 326-7. WAGES at De Beers Mine, 39 ; at Robinson Mine, 68. Walden (servant), 166-7. Wanetse River, 177-9, 302, 308-9. Warm Baths near Pretoria, 98. War Office, the, 30, 31. Warren, Sir Charles, and Bechu- analand, 124. " Warrigal " mine, the, 297. Water on the plain, 19(5-8. Water rates in Transvaal, 62. Wegdraai, 132. Wellington, town of, Cape Colony, 34. Wells, 202, the Boers and, 102. Wilderness, lost in the, 138-141, 252-3. Wildebeest, 75, 76, 199, 218. Wild pig, 147, 218, 232. Williams, Mr. Gardner, 40, 132-4. Williams, Captain G., 4, 97, 148, 153-9, 166, 169-173, 176, 185, 211, 234, 238-241,253, 265, 280. Willonghby, Sir John, 206, 209, 211, 218-233, 24.5, 287. Wines of the Paarl, 34. Winslow, Mr., 130. Winton, Sir Francis de, 93. Witwatersrand, gold-field of, 327- 9. Worcester, town of, Cape Colony, 34. Workings, old mine, in Mashona- land, 240, 303. Wynberg, near Cape Town, 21. YELLOW JACKET MINE, the, 242-3, 296, 307. ZAMBESIA, 22. Zambesi River, 209, 213, 320. Zambilli, Queen, 28. Zimboe River, 258, 263. Zoological Gardens at Lisbon, 6-7* Zoology : see antelopes, baboons, blesbok, bucks, chimpanzees, crocodiles, elands, elephants, gazelles, giraffes, hartebeest, hippopotami, hycenas, jackals, koodoos, leopards, lions, monkeys, quaggas, rhinoceros, springbok, icildtieest, wild pigs, Zoutspanburg, mining district of, 99, 100, 159. Zaluland, the government of, 26. Zambo, 209, 232. UCSB LIBRARY X PBIN'TED B GIMERT AND RITOIOTOW, LO., ST. JOHN'S HOUSE, CLEBKKNWRIJ- ROAD, E UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACIL A 000 527 382 6