LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Class 
 
ERECTING WORK 
 
TIJE POWER HANDBOOKS 
 
 The best library for the engineer and the man who hopes 
 to be one. 
 
 This book is one of them. They are all good and 
 they cost 
 
 $ 1,00 postpaid per volume. (English price 4/6 postpaid.) 
 
 SOLD SEPARATELT OR IN SETS 
 
 BY PROF. AUGUSTUS H. GILL 
 
 OF THE MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY 
 
 ENGINE ROOM CHEMISTRY 
 
 BY HUBERT E. COLLINS 
 
 BOILERS KNOCKS AND KINKS 
 
 SHAFT GOVERNORS PUMPS 
 
 ERECTING WORK SHAFTING, PULLEYS AND 
 
 PIPES AND PIPING BELTING 
 
 STEAM TURBINES 
 
 BY F. E. MATTHEWS 
 REFRIGERATION. (In Preparation.) 
 
 McGRAW-HILL BOOK COMPANY 
 
 PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS 
 239 WEST 39TH STREET, NEW YORK 
 
 6 BOUVERIE STREET, LONDON, E.G. 
 
THE POWER HANDBOOKS 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 COMPILED AND WRITTEN 
 BY 
 
 HUBERT E. COLLINS 
 n 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 McGRAW-HILL BOOK COMPANY 
 
 239 WEST 39TH STREET 
 
 1908 
 
Copyright, 1908, BY THE HILL PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 A II rights reserved 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 I FOUNDATIONS i 
 
 II KNOTS AND HITCHES 18 
 
 III HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY THROUGH CITY STREETS 26 
 
 IV RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 36 
 
 V WORK FOR A GIN POLE 44 
 
 VI RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 52 
 
 VII MOVING A CYLINDER 64 
 
 VIII UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 75 
 
 IX RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 89 
 
 X BUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 101 
 
 XI THE ERECTION OF HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK 
 
 ENGINES in 
 
 XII SOME OF THE LIGHTER WORK IN ERECTING. . . . 130 
 
 196185 
 
FOUNDATIONS 
 
 AN engine, to be properly set, must be set rigidly. 
 It is necessary to have the foundation of ample size, 
 rightly proportioned, of good material, and skilfully 
 built. The nature of the ground must be carefully 
 considered and provision made, in preparing it for the 
 foundation, to reduce the liability of settling to a 
 minimum. 
 
 Concrete foundations for engines have come into 
 general use throughout the country, owing to their 
 cheapness and durability, and some points on the 
 building of these will be of service. Material for the 
 foundations should be the best of its kind. The stone 
 (if stone is used) should be broken clean and dry. 
 The sand should be coarse and gritty. 
 
 Wet a small quantity of cement, and mold it in the 
 hands; then put the sample away and see how long it 
 takes it to set. After it has set, see how much pound- 
 ing will be required to break it up. By these simple 
 means, bearing in mind that good cement should set 
 in twenty-four hours, or less, the quality of the cement 
 can be readily determined. 
 
 The length of time it takes a foundation to set before 
 weight may be safely placed on it can be ascertained, 
 
2 ERECTING WORK 
 
 a day or two after placing the foundation, by drilling 
 into the side for a distance of 12 in. or so. Beyond 
 12 in. the concrete will not be dry for several weeks, 
 but it should be stiff enough to make some show of 
 resistance after the first few days. Unless it does so, 
 weight should not be placed upon it. 
 
 In "made" ground it is often advisable to drive 
 piles, and if they are kept submerged in water, or if the 
 ground is continually wet, the piles will not decay. 
 The use of wood should be avoided as much as possible, 
 however, because of its elasticity and its propensity 
 to decay. 
 
 If a concrete foundation is to be built in the ground, 
 with the top extending a few inches above the finished 
 floor line, molds will not be needed for the body, but 
 only the top is molded. A simple excavation of suf- 
 ficient size and depth is all that is necessary, and after 
 the templet and foundation bolts have been located 
 the excavation is filled in. The size of the excavation 
 depends on the dimensions and shape of the founda- 
 tion plans furnished by the manufacturer. It should 
 be large enough to allow for the foot measurements 
 shown on the plans. 
 
 If no foundation plans are furnished, but only a 
 center-line plan of the bolts, some knowledge of the 
 principles of foundation designing is requisite. All 
 well-designed foundations are widest and longest at 
 the bottom, thereby securing large bearing surface, 
 lessening the liability of settlement, and affording 
 greater resistance to strain. 
 
 When the ground is soft and moist, the foundation 
 
FOUNDATIONS 3 
 
 should be flared considerably more than ordinarily at 
 the bottom, to further resist the tendency to settle. 
 If the foundation is built in quicksand and piles are 
 not used, good results can be secured by first laying 
 two courses of oak planks, well spiked together, ex- 
 tending some distance beyond the base of the founda- 
 tion on all sides, the planks being 2 or 3 in. thick. 
 The first course should be laid lengthwise of the founda- 
 tion and the second crosswise of the first. 
 
 These instructions are only general, of course, and 
 the erecting engineer should use his judgment as to 
 how far to depart from the dimensions given in the 
 builders' plans; or, in the event of there being no 
 plans, how far to extend the foundations beyond that 
 of precedent. 
 
 The forces which foundations are designed to resist 
 are principally three in number: First and greatest 
 weight (or gravity), which is always vertical in direc- 
 tion; second, inertia; third, the pull of the main belt or 
 rope, when the unit is not direct-connected. " Inertia" 
 may be subdivided into two classes: those of "rotation" 
 and "reciprocation." The former is called centrifugal 
 force, and the latter comprises the alternating forces 
 of acceleration and retardation. 
 
 The forces of reciprocation act along the line of the 
 piston's movement. The force of rotation acts in all 
 directions radially from the center of the crank-disk. 
 The forces of reciprocation become a very powerful 
 component of the entire force exerted on the founda- 
 tion when the speed is high and the "counterbalance" 
 light. This reciprocatory influence and the force of 
 
4 ERECTING WORK 
 
 gravity, acting at right angles to each other, produce 
 a combined effort which is neither horizontal nor 
 vertical, but at a greater or less inclination from the 
 vertical, according to their relative magnitudes. 
 When they are equal, the resultant angle will be 
 45 deg. from the vertical; when the inertia of recipro- 
 cation is greatest, the angle will be "greater" than 
 45 deg. or more nearly horizontal; if the inertia force 
 is less than gravity, the inclination of the angle will 
 be less than 45 deg. or nearer vertical. 
 
 Since in no case where these two forces act at angles 
 to each other the resultant strain their combined 
 effort is vertical, but is always inclined more or 
 less outward, away from the engine bed, it is essential 
 to build the foundation longest on the bottom, taper- 
 ing gradually to within 12 in. of the top, so these 
 resultant strains will be met directly by the resisting 
 force of the masonry. The higher the rotative speed 
 of the engine the more essential it is to have the ends 
 of the foundation thus braced. 
 
 According to the laws of inertia, "the forces of re- 
 ciprocation and rotation increase with given stroke as 
 the squares of the revolutions of the crank, and with 
 given rate of rotation directly as the length of stroke." 
 Therefore, if the speed of an engine is doubled, the 
 forces of reciprocation and rotation are quadrupled. 
 If the stroke is then doubled, these forces become 
 eight times as great as they were at the former rates of 
 rotation and stroke. 
 
 The effect of reciprocation is modified more or less 
 by placing a counterweight in the opposite side of the 
 
FOUNDATIONS 5 
 
 crank from the crank-pin. This counterweight opposes 
 the forces of reciprocation, being in effect a centrifugal 
 force, or force of rotation, which acts in direct opposi- 
 tion to them at the ends of the stroke only and exerts 
 its full force upon the main bearing and front end of 
 the foundation at midstroke, in a direction at right 
 angles to the forces of reciprocation. 
 
 In horizontal engines, this counterweight force acts 
 alternately in the same and opposite directions to that 
 of gravity, but, unlike gravity, acts at the crank end 
 of the frame only, requiring a foundation resistance 
 directly beneath it. Suppose, then, the weight of the 
 engine to be equally distributed along its entire length 
 greater strength would be required in the front, or 
 crank end, than in the back, or cylinder end, of the 
 foundation, and this is particularly true of founda- 
 tions for high-speed engines. 
 
 The resultant of forces acting upon any point in the 
 engine frame may be found by the following method: 
 The heavy pointed lines in Fig. i represent the different 
 forces and their direction, which are here spoken of as 
 acting on a horizontal reciprocating engine belted to its 
 work. The lines of force are shown lying in the direc- 
 tion in which they act, all meeting at a common point, 
 as at C. Let two of these lines, as C A and C /, form 
 adjacent sides of a parallelogram, C A M I; then the 
 diagonal C M will be the resultant of these two forces. 
 Now, with C E and C D as two sides, construct the 
 parallelogram C E F D. The diagonal C F will be 
 the resultant of the three forces C /, C A and C D. 
 
 The meaning of the pointed lines is as follows: The 
 
6 ERECTING WORK 
 
 line CA represents the force of reciprocation on a 
 horizontal bed; C / is the weight strain and CD the 
 belt strain. The line C B, opposite and equal to C A, 
 represents the inertia force on the return stroke. The 
 forces of reciprocation surge forward and backward, 
 giving a "sailing" motion to r the engine frame when 
 insecurely fastened to and held by the foundation. 
 
 M/ 
 
 Vertical engines act more directly downward upon 
 their foundation; both weight and the forces of re- 
 ciprocation acting in that direction, the former always 
 downward and the latter alternately upward and down- 
 ward. In this type of engine it is the force of rotation 
 which necessitates widening the foundation at the 
 bottom ; therefore, the force developed by the counter- 
 weight has the same tendency to tip the foundation 
 over as have the forces of reciprocation in horizontal 
 
FOUNDATIONS 7 
 
 engines. But counterweights should not be propor- 
 tionately as large in vertical engines as in horizontal 
 engines, for the reason that their effect is resisted with 
 more difficulty than are the vertical strains of recipro- 
 cation. 
 
 In all foundations it is easier to provide for vertical 
 than horizontal strains. The mass and form of foun- 
 dation, for either a vertical or a horizontal engine, 
 should be subject to modification, according to the 
 speed at which the engine is to be run, the weight of 
 reciprocating parts and the proportion of counter- 
 balance to that weight. It should be remembered that 
 increasing the counterbalance increases the force of 
 rotation, while decreasing it, generally speaking, 
 leaves a larger force of reciprocation unresisted within 
 the engine, increasing its effort upon the foundation 
 at a given rate of rotation. 
 
 With a vertical turbine the only force which acts 
 upon the foundation is that of weight, or gravity. 
 The twisting strain between the motor and generator 
 is taken up by the frame itself. With a horizontal 
 turbine, the strain on the foundation is that of weight, 
 and unless the frame is sufficiently strong, the twisting 
 strain also acts upon it. The frames are supposed 
 to be strong enough, however, to take up all twisting 
 strain. 
 
 Having pointed out certain essential features which 
 govern design, it will be as well to consider the con- 
 struction of the foundation. Concrete foundations 
 will be considered first, although the foregoing applies 
 to any kind of foundation. 
 
8 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 The dimensions and shape of the foundation having 
 been decided on, a mold must be made. The inside 
 dimensions of the mold must be equal to the dimensions 
 it is desired to make the foundation, of course. The 
 mold may be made of planks, sufficiently heavy to 
 withstand all pressure and strain of tamping the con- 
 crete, without "giving." 
 
 If the foundation is to remain rough on its surfaces, 
 just as it comes from the mold, care should be taken 
 
 Would 
 
 Furring 
 
 FIG. 2 
 
 so to construct the mold as to leave clean, uniform sur- 
 faces. When it is intended to give the foundation an 
 extra finish, furring is nailed to the inside of the mold. 
 When the mold is removed the furring will remain 
 imbedded in the surface of the concrete and furnish a 
 hold for the finish. This furring should be fastened 
 lightly to the inside of the mold, as in Fig. 2. 
 
 If the foundation is to be located so the lower ends 
 of the bolts will be accessible, recesses should be pro- 
 
FOUNDATIONS 
 
 vided in the sides so nuts can be placed over plates on 
 
 the lower ends of the bolts, as in Fig. 3. The openings 
 for the foundation bolts should be provided for in the 
 le molds by boxes, or inserting pieces of pipe where the 
 bolts are to come. 
 
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 FIG. 3 
 
 The safest, as well as the quickest, way is to suspend 
 the bolts from the templet over the mold with the nuts 
 and plates in position, box the plate in at the lower end 
 and slip over each bolt a section of pipe long enough 
 to reach to the foundation top; or a wooden box can 
 be made to serve the purpose. When the casing is 
 placed over the bolt, pack rags, waste, or paper in the 
 top, so as to hold the bolt central in the casing. 
 
 How TO SET THE TEMPLET 
 
 Templets are furnished by most engine builders, 
 and the makers' templets are the best. They are 
 
10 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 usually made with the outside edges of the templet of 
 the same dimension as the top of the finished founda- 
 tion; and in the case of concrete foundations sometimes 
 the templet can be built into the top of the mold. If 
 this is done, the templet must be placed with its bottom 
 face corresponding in position to the finished surface 
 of the foundation, and the bolts held high enough to 
 allow for the thickness of nut and frame casting. 
 This can be done by screwing the bolts far enough 
 through the nuts on top of templet. 
 
 Templet 
 
 FIG. 4 
 
 Figure 4 shows how the templet, nut and bolt would 
 look in the heavy lines, set to bring the bolt to a cor- 
 responding hight with the frame casting and nut in 
 its final position, as shown by dotted lines. 
 
 When the foundation bolts are suspended so that 
 their weight is on the templet, the latter should be 
 reinforced strongly so the templet will not sag and 
 leave the bolts at the wrong level. When the templet 
 and mold have been placed on their proper level with 
 the bolts in place, the templet must then be set inline. 
 
FOUNDATIONS 1 1 
 
 On the templet are marked the center lines. In 
 a horizontal engine there will be two lines, at right 
 angles to each other, marked on the templet, the center 
 line of the cylinder and the center line of the shaft. 
 These lines will correspond with a b and e /, Fig. 5, and 
 are used for reference in lining up the templet. If the 
 engine is to be connected with a jack or line-shaft, then 
 the center line of the engine shaft should be parallel 
 with the jack or line-shaft and the center line of the 
 cylinder at right angles. 
 
 To set the templet lines true, set up a line from tar- 
 gets on. the wall to correspond with the center line of 
 the shaft. This line can be at any convenient hight, 
 but its two ends should be the same hight, and it should 
 be stretched as taut as it will stand. Then set up a 
 line from the walls, to correspond with the center line 
 of the cylinder, the same hight as the other and as 
 taut. 
 
 To get these lines at right angles with each other, 
 mark off two points, c and d on the line e f, Fig. 5, 
 which will be six feet from the point g, and then mark 
 off the point 1, eight feet from the point g on the line 
 a b. Mark the points c, d and / with thread tied to the 
 cord. If the two lines a b and e f are exactly at right 
 angles, the distances c I and d I will each be exactly 
 ten feet. If it is not, then the position of the line at 
 fault must be changed until the distance is right. Be 
 sure to keep the measurements c g, d g and / g exactly 
 as given. 
 
 If these distances can be doubled to 12, 16 and 20 
 feet, the chances for error will be fewer. After these 
 
12 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 lines are set true they can be used for reference to set 
 the templet lines by. If they are above the templet, 
 plumb lines can be hung over them and plumb bobs 
 dropped down to serve as guides to bring the templet 
 into position. After the templet is set, secure it in 
 place so there is no possibility of its moving. The 
 mold under it must also be carefully secured and 
 braced in place. 
 
 FIG. 5 
 
 If a vertical reciprocating engine is to be set, the 
 center line of the shaft will be the only one marked on 
 the templet. Turbines need not be set accurately, 
 except that the piping surfaces must come in line, and 
 for convenience of location. 
 
 Having set the templet and mold in position, with 
 the foundation bolts in place, the actual mixing and 
 placing of the concrete is in order. First, place the 
 
FOUNDATIONS 
 
 proper amount of stone in a pile and wet it; at the same 
 time have some one mix the sand and cement in another 
 pile, the two piles being side by side, as in Fig. 6. Wet 
 
 A //// '^ l ' s ^' -*- \ 
 
 FIG. 6 
 
 both piles thoroughly. Put the mortar on top of the 
 stone, as in Fig. 7, and start to mix the two. They 
 should be mixed thoroughly by hand, first, and then, 
 
 FIG. 7 
 
 beginning on each side of the pile of mortar and stone, 
 shovel it into two piles turning each shovelful over in 
 so doing. After making two piles of the mixed ma- 
 terial, shovel them back into the center again into one 
 pile. The proper proportions, using good materials, 
 are six parts stone, three parts sand and one part 
 cement (written 6-3-1). 
 
 Then begin filling the mold with the mixed concrete. 
 If the mold is too deep the concrete should be run in 
 by means of a chute, or rolled down over planks. The 
 concrete should not be thrown in to a distance of 
 more than 8 feet in depth. After the concrete is 
 run in, ram it in with a spade all around the edges 
 of the mold, to make sure that it will reach all points, 
 and then tamp each course in until the water stands 
 on top of the concrete. Fill the mold to within three- 
 quarters of an inch of the line where the engine 
 frame will set, leaving this space for the final grout- 
 
14 ERECTING WORK 
 
 ing after the frame is leveled and bolted in place on 
 wedges. 
 
 The foundation should then be allowed to set until 
 its surface is hard, when the mold may be taken away 
 and the setting up of the machinery begun. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS 
 
 Sometimes the erecting engineer will have problems 
 to solve far different from those cited herewith. If 
 the foundation bolts are to be placed in solid rock, or 
 an old foundation, as is sometimes the case, holes 
 must be drilled to a sufficient depth with a rock drill. 
 When within 10 or 12 in. of the required depth for the 
 bolt, change the drill so that one lip is longer than the 
 other and finish drilling with it that way. This will 
 make the hole larger at the bottom. Make the founda- 
 tion bolt with the lower end split, lower the bolt with 
 a partly entered iron wedge and drive it hard on the 
 bottom, when the wedge will be entered so as to ex- 
 pand the end of the bolt, as in Fig. 8. When the engine 
 is in position fill the hole with cement-and-sand mortar. 
 
 To avoid vibration from machinery, the foundation 
 should be kept clear of the surrounding concrete floors 
 by a narrow space, and if necessary this space may be 
 filled with sawdust. Sometimes when foundations are 
 set on a rock bottom, on which the building founda- 
 tions also rest, the sound and vibration of the ma- 
 chinery is telephoned throughout the building to the 
 annoyance of tenants. This can be avoided by first 
 tamping a layer of sand over the rock, 6 or 8 in. deep, 
 and placing the foundation over that. 
 
FOUNDATIONS 
 
 Where brick foundations are to be built, they should 
 be laid first on a bottom of concrete, or stone, of vary- 
 ing thickness, say from 12 to 24 in., and of sufficient 
 length and breadth to extend a few inches beyond the 
 bottom edges of the foundation all around. The 
 templet, in this case, can be set on a scaffold the right 
 
 i 
 
 G6ncret<e 
 
 FIG. 8 
 
 hight and centered. If the space will permit, build 
 the scaffold of sufficient length and breadth between 
 supports so that the masonry can be built up inside 
 of them. In every case, build the scaffold strong and 
 secure it well to prevent possibility of moving. 
 
 The bricks for a foundation should be good, hard 
 
16 ERECTING WORK 
 
 sewer bricks, laid in a mortar of two parts of sand to 
 one of cement. Lay the bricks close, and make every 
 fourth course a header. The center may be filled in 
 with large bats well grouted. 
 
 In finding center lines to set templets by, it is always 
 best for the erecting man to have the contractor, 
 architect, or millwright of the building furnish a line 
 to go by. It is not the duty of the erecting engineer to 
 go beyond the immediate limits of the engine room 
 to establish lines; let some one in authority furnish 
 the first line for a guide, as then the engineer is not 
 responsible for the position of the machinery when 
 set true to the line furnished. 
 
 If rust joints are to be made, aim at a thickness of 
 three-eighths of an inch all around between the edge 
 of the engine frame and the foundation; an inch is the 
 very outside limit. 
 
 In allowing masons to work to your plans, or setting, 
 it will not do to give them leeway in the matter of 
 working dimensions. While it may answer to allow a 
 bolt to be a little out of position when there is a hole 
 around it in the foundation, which allows it to move 
 an inch in any direction, measure to sixty-fourths, 
 or to thousandths, if possible, in locating center lines. 
 You won't get them from masons, but if you start with 
 quarters you will often be from two to four inches out 
 all around. A mason may tell you that he made 
 foundations before you were born, and he may be 
 speaking truthfully, but even he cannot tell how many 
 of the dimensions were failures. If you let him have 
 his way, it may be necessary to tear down part of the 
 
FOUNDATIONS 17 
 
 foundation to relocate some of the bolts. If this is 
 done it sometimes has the good effect of having him 
 follow your instructions closely, next time. The erect- 
 ing man is his company's representative on the ground 
 and has to fight his employer's battles. We should 
 begin by watching the mason who builds the founda- 
 tion. 
 
II 
 
 KNOTS AND HITCHES 
 
 FIGURE 9, made by two endless slings and used as 
 shown in Fig. 10, is a reliable basket hitch when both 
 slings are of equal length, or with one sling long enough 
 to take in one-half of the cylinder's diameter and the 
 other to run through both loops of the smaller and have 
 its own loops catch the chain hook. 
 
 Some people hoist the shaft endwise by using a 
 collar or lathe-dog as a safety stay; others use the 
 bitting-rolling hitch shown in Fig. 11, but in one con- 
 servative concern whose screw and bolt department, 
 on the fifth floor, is provided with an independent hoist 
 chain, they use the rig shown in Fig. 12. The bucket 
 is hoisted above the floor level and then pulled in as 
 the hoistway is reversed and made to lower away. 
 
 It is a very common practise, in the absence of a 
 ready-made endless sling, to tie a flat knot in a short 
 length of rope and use it in lieu of a sling. Be careful 
 to avoid a "granny knot," Fig. 13, which is unsafe and 
 which we all know about; but there is another fool 
 trick which can easily be played with this knot. As 
 it may be new to some of the readers, an explanation 
 of it may be made here by the following experience. 
 In lowering a bed-plate, and as it was going down, to 
 
 18 
 
KNOTS AND HITCHES 
 
 help keep it clear of the building, the man in charge 
 took hold of A, Fig. 13 (you might take B for a change), 
 
 FIG. 10 
 
 and gave it a good -strong pull, and down came the 
 bed-plate with a rush. The explanation of the knot 
 
20 ERECTING WORK 
 
 letting go is this: By pulling at A, Fig. 14, caused 
 the loop to double back, as shown in Fig. 15, and then 
 the Weight of the bed-plate pulled A out of his hand, 
 through the doubled loop, and, presto! the trick was 
 done. In making a flat knot with chains, a piece of 
 pipe or wood should be run into it, as shown by Fig. 13 
 to prevent jamming. 
 
 Figure 16 shows a good and safe way, known as a 
 sheepshank, of shortening a long rope. It is self- 
 evident that any amount and any length of loop may 
 be used, but it must be carefully borne in mind that at 
 least a 6-in. length of over-lap loop at X X is essential 
 to absolute safety. 
 
 The next is made without passing the end, and pro- 
 vides two loops to which a tackle block can be hooked. 
 Fig. 17 shows the start; Fig. 18, the second stage; 
 Fig. 19 the manner of rolling two loops into the stand- 
 ing portion of the rope, and Fig. 20, the two loops X X 
 brought vertically down (after rolling) and ready for 
 service. The block or fall must be hooked into both 
 loops. The above is a safe and reliable hitch that can 
 be wiggled in at any point in a rope, and besides being 
 perfectly reliable, it is easily and quickly made and 
 unmade. 
 
 Figure 21 is an old and well-known friend of the 
 rigger. 
 
 Figure 22 is a simple and safe way to take a tem- 
 porary hold, but as the mere shifting of the weighted 
 loop will suffice to loosen the whole rig, the need of 
 keeping meddlers away must be obvious. 
 
 Figure 23 shows how in using a chain block whose 
 
KNOTS AND HITCHES 
 
 21 
 
 FIG. 25 FIG. 26 ^PIG. 27 FIG. 28 
 
 FIG. 20 
 
 FIG. 3 1 
 
22 ERECTING WORK 
 
 hoisting and lowering range is necessarily confined to 
 the limit of its chain length, the weight may be raised 
 or lowered to any distance. Thus in Fig. 23 the chain 
 travel is only 10 ft., but the weight has to be raised 
 20 ft. We lower the chain and hook into the rope at 
 A, hoist the 10 ft. and make the free rope's end B fast 
 to any convenient projection overhead (if necessary, 
 even to the chain block suspending hook C). We now 
 unhook and lower the chain again for its new pre- 
 viously-prepared hold lower down, as at D, and up she 
 goes, the 20 ft. or any other old distance. We em- 
 phasize previously prepared hold advisedly, as, if not so 
 prepared, it will be found impossible to wiggle in a hold 
 for the hook in the tautened rope. Fig. 21 cannot be 
 used for second holds, and positively must not be used 
 for a starter, or first hold, because, after fastening at 
 C, it will be found both hard and dangerous to slip the 
 hook out of it. 
 
 Either the double-up, non-slipping loop, Fig. 24, or 
 bowlines should be used all along the line. 
 
 Speaking of bowlines, the slack line X may go either 
 in front or back of the standing rope Y, as shown in 
 Figs. 25 and 26; but in either case after going around 
 Y, it must be passed through the loop Z in the manner 
 shown at Fig. 27. Passing it through as shown at 
 Fig. 28 cuts out the non-slipping feature and reduces 
 the bowline to a farce. 
 
 A broken hammer handle, a split monkey-wrench 
 handle, etc., may be nicely repaired by the endless- 
 wound splice Fig. 29. The make-up is, we think, pretty 
 clear as shown, and it is evident that by pulling at A 
 
KNOTS AND HITCHES 23 
 
 the loop B will make a similar loop in D at C, and con- 
 tinued pull will draw the crossed loops out of sight. 
 The loop ends may then be closely cut off. 
 
 Figure 30 is preferable for extra neat work, in that 
 it does away with the bulge caused by the crossed 
 loops. Until the loop X is reached, all is plain sailing. 
 The rope Y must then be held steadily in its place on 
 the stick Z while the loop is swung around both it and 
 the stick, as shown by the dotted outline. Only at 
 the finish (shown in Fig. 31) should Y be allowed to 
 move. Then it, as a part of loop L, should be swung 
 around the stick as shown at N. Setting the coils 
 close and drawing up at M completes the job. 
 
 Always, and above all, in using ropes do not abuse 
 them. Bagging, burlap, even waste or paper, if the 
 first are not to be had, should always be interposed 
 between a rope and all hard, angled, even if not sharp, 
 edges. 
 
 The knot shown completed in Fig. 37 is also known 
 as "jury mast knot" and "bottle hitch." It can be 
 used in place of a "mast iron" at the top of a derrick 
 to make guys fast to. 
 
 Although at first glance it appears to be complicated, 
 it is very easy to make. To practise it, take a piece 
 of stout cord between the thumb and forefinger of 
 each hand with a space of about 6 in. between the 
 hands. Then twist the cord right-banded with thumb 
 and forefinger of the right hand only. This will 
 throw up a "bight" like Fig. 32 with the part A under 
 B. Grasp the loop between the thumb and forefinger 
 of the left hand at the point where the two parts cross. 
 
ERECTING WORK 
 
 Then move the thumb and forefinger of the right hand 
 along the cord about 6 in. and throw up another 
 "bight" laying it on top of the first one. You then 
 have Fig. 33. Hold these two "bights" with the left 
 
 FIG. 32 
 
 FIG. 34 
 
 FIG. 35 
 
 thumb and forefinger, measure off another 6 in. and 
 throw the last "bight." Place it on top of the last 
 one made and you have Fig. 34. Take the part E 
 
 FIG. 36 
 
 FIG. 37 
 
 in the last "bight" at Fig. 34 and while holding the 
 other parts in place pass it under B, over C, and 
 under A. This makes Fig. 35. Then take B, Fig. 36 
 and pass it under D and over F. The result is Fig. 36. 
 
KNOTS AND HITCHES 
 
 2 5 
 
 Then while holding E in the left and B in the right 
 hand, take hold of X with the teeth and pull it. The 
 result will be Fig. 37. In practise the part O, Fig. 37, 
 goes over the reduced part at the mast or derrick head. 
 The forestay or guy is made fast to X. The stays to 
 E and B. Y and Z form the back stays. Any strain on 
 the stays tightens up 0. By pulling Y and Z in 
 opposite directions the knot comes out. 
 
 SLINGING A BARREL 
 FIG. 38 
 
 It is often necessary to sling a barrel containing 
 castings or liquids. While with both heads on and 
 bung in place this is an easy matter; with one head out 
 this is not so easy. The illustrations i, 2, and 3 in 
 Fig. 38 show how this can be easily done. 
 
Ill 
 
 HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY THROUGH 
 CITY STREETS 
 
 A CITY street makes a good roadway for moving 
 machinery, even if it is heavy and on skids and rollers, 
 and three thicknesses of 2-in. plank are enough for a 
 track. The joints in the layers should be broken if 
 the street surface is at all uneven and things are ready 
 to move. If the street happens to be an old one with 
 cobblestone pavement and poor material beneath to 
 support that pavement, of course things will have to be 
 evened up with blocking. But this principle holds 
 everywhere: one block across another and short spans 
 for heavy loads. 
 
 The most important question in hauling a heavy 
 piece in this way, weighing sixty tons or more, is to 
 provide the hauling force. The thing could be shoved 
 with jacks and some progress made, too, or even with 
 enough chain falls, three sets of three ton blocks, for 
 instance, but the trouble with such rigging is of course 
 the number of shifts that must be made and the time 
 lost in making them. A good long rope falls with a 
 pair of horses on the leading line is the quickest and 
 easiest way of getting on. If the ground is level, a 
 pair of good truck horses will haul that shaft with 
 
 26 
 
HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY 27 
 
 a one and one-quarter in. falls through a pair of three 
 sheave blocks. That will give a pulling force of seven 
 times the force exerted by the horses, for, of course, 
 the team should pull in the direction of the onward 
 movement and the ropes' end should be made fast to 
 the load. This will give a speed of movement of one- 
 seventh the speed of the team and will be amply fast 
 for the best of level roads and a large gang of efficient 
 men. If there were no pauses, which of course there 
 must be, and many of them, a city block would be 
 passed in seven or eight minutes. One great objection 
 to going too fast will be the inability to stop a team of 
 horses instantly. They like to go two or three steps 
 after the time to stop, and this will mean a foot or so 
 on the shaft. 
 
 If the ground is uneven, and hills and hollows lie in 
 the path, more power will be needed, of course, and a 
 capstan head for either one or two horses is most con- 
 venient. Motion is slower then, and there is less 
 danger. The man hauling in the slack on the leading 
 line, as the rope pays itself off, can check the onward 
 motion instantly by slacking his hold, even with the 
 drum in motion. The capstan will have to be shifted 
 just as often as is the head block, and a new anchorage 
 will have to be provided each time. If a capstan is not 
 available, power can be gained quite as well with a luff 
 tackle; that is, instead of hauling directly on the lead- 
 ing line of the main falls, hook another falls onto it 
 and pull on the second leading line. A lighter rope 
 will answer for the second falls, for the whole force it 
 exerts goes through a single part of the main falls; inch 
 
28 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 rope or even three-quarter inch is amply large; smaller 
 rope can be used, but this rope should be a long one, 
 and there is not much call for a very long, small rope 
 on other parts of the work. A set of half-inch blocks 
 is convenient for small short lifts, valve gear and like 
 pieces, but a long rope is very much in the way at such 
 times. 
 
 When a luff is used, it is just as well to let the haul- 
 ing line of the main fall come back toward the load and 
 fasten the other line to the head block. This will cut 
 off one-seventh of the pulling force, but if the head 
 
 FIG. 39 
 
 block of the luff is itself fixed to the load, and its haul- 
 ing line lead off to pull in the direction of the shaft 
 motion, that seventh will be recovered. This will 
 require an extra sheave in the luff blocks to equal the 
 pull, were everything straightaway, but the advantage 
 comes in not having to shift so many hitches so often. 
 There will be one block that can always remain in place 
 of this extra tackle. It will, of course, depend upon 
 how much force is available, how much the load is, and 
 how many men are upon the work. This will be made 
 clearer in the sketches. Fig. 39 shows the straight- 
 
HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY 
 
 2 9 
 
 away pull with a pair of three sheave blocks, and with 
 an arrangement giving seven times the force to move 
 the load that is exerted on the hauling line. This is 
 clearly a better arrangement than Fig. 40 shows, 
 
 FIG. 40 
 
 where the force multiplies itself six times only. The 
 difference in these two arrangements is so apparent 
 that a man who handles machinery for a living would 
 not be caught using Fig. 40. But it has been used by 
 some pretty good mechanics. 
 
 The simplest and most powerful arrangement for a 
 luff is to repeat Fig. 39 upon itself, that is, let the 
 
 FIG. 41 
 
 hauling line be taken as the load and the new fall be 
 hooked to it as if it alone were to be moved, as in Fig. 
 41. Here the main tackle gives a multiplication of 
 seven, and its hauling line furnishes load to a fall 
 
30 ERECTING WORK 
 
 which multiplies five times; so that the force urging the 
 load on is thirty-five times the hauling force. The 
 sketch shows the leading line of the main falls going 
 by the main anchorage. Of course this is not necessary 
 nor convenient. There is no reason why the main 
 leading line may not be shortened up and the head 
 block of the luff anchored at the same fixture that fur- 
 nishes anchorage for the main fall. Fig. 42 shows an 
 
 FIG. 42 
 
 arrangement of the two falls which is more often used, 
 though some of the power is sacrificed. Here neither 
 block of the luff tackle is stationary; what is really the 
 head block being fast to the load itself while the other 
 block hooks onto the leading line of the main falls. 
 The force urging the load onward here is twenty-eight 
 times the hauling force, a loss of 20 per cent, of the most 
 powerful arrangement. Fig. 43 shows a method of 
 main fall and luff with a multiplication of thirty-five 
 and with the head block of the luff tackle fast to the 
 load. Here, however, the hauling line leads back and 
 is not always convenient. This arrangement would 
 be an ideal one were a hand winch to be used and the 
 
HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY 
 
 3 1 
 
 lower winch fixed to the load itself and pulling away 
 in the leading part of the secondary fall. 
 
 Any one of these methods can multiply power 
 enormously. With the winch as just mentioned in 
 connection with Fig. 43, the winch enters as a factor. 
 An ordinary compound hand winch will multiply, by 
 itself alone, any force acting upon the cranks, about 
 
 .HAULING LINE 
 
 FIG. 43 
 
 thirty times, depending upon the gearing, of course, 
 some being less and some more powerful. Here then 
 the pulling or winding force furnished by the men with 
 the handles is multiplied ten hundred and fifty times. 
 If the shaft were to be lifted bodily, this hitch brings 
 the force necessary down to a very small amount, less 
 than one hundred and forty pounds, in fact, and is 
 easily available with a few men. It is evident that to 
 make all this force available, something more than 
 seven parts of one and one-quarter inch rope is neces- 
 sary. A bran-new inch and a quarter fall with seven 
 hauling parts may be trusted for a straight pull of ten 
 tons straight up in the air or in any other direction. 
 But the rope must be in perfect condition. 
 
32 ERECTING WORK 
 
 These schemes of rigging apply to the multiplication 
 of power only, and show methods of reducing the 
 amount of force needed to move a load. There is no 
 economy, it is clear, in making an arrangement that 
 one man can manage with one hand lightly on a winch. 
 Nor yet again is there economy in having a man haul 
 on a rope with the entire strength he can muster. 
 Thirty pounds is a good fair pulling force for a man to 
 exert, and keep it up long enough to run out the 
 length of a hitch, provided he has his load placed 
 advantageously; and he will have a reserve even at 
 this, that will help over a temporary increased pull. 
 Two men on a winch will do more than twice as much 
 as one man. If a seventy-ton shaft were to be lifted 
 up, something more than seven one and one-quarter- 
 inch falls, each one through three sheave blocks, 
 would be used. Though they could lift it, were each 
 one fully loaded, there would be no way of knowing 
 when each one had its share, and each one might part 
 separately one after another. More parts of more 
 powerful rope are used for heavy .lifts, concerning 
 which more will be said later. 
 
 There may be some difficulty in finding anchorages 
 along a roadway, solid enough to allow of a head block 
 being hitched to them. If six tons are required to 
 move the load along, there will come a backward pull 
 of six tons on the anchorage, and something heavy 
 must be found for the purpose, and good judgment 
 used in hitching to it. The trunk of a tree will stand 
 a lot of abuse. An i8-in. trunk will stand more hori- 
 zontal pull than can be brought upon it in such work. 
 
HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY 
 
 33 
 
 Sometimes it is possible to take a turn about part of an 
 old building. In one window and out another with a 
 rope or chain and taking in a good solid corner, if the 
 walls are thick and firm, will answer very well. Corners 
 of the building must be protected with pieces of plank 
 and tree-trunks must have a thickness of plank all 
 around to protect their bark from damage, as shown in 
 Fig. 44. Lamp-posts and hydrants usually have to be 
 avoided. They will not stand much, anyway, and 
 
 FIG. 44 
 
 the authorities are likely to pass unpleasant remarks 
 besides. They have been known to help, however. 
 Telegraph poles are good and can be used for a good 
 pull. They have not the hold upon the ground that a 
 tree has, however, and are rather small for the heaviest 
 work. But sometimes two or three weak things can 
 be combined to make one solid one. It is always pos- 
 sible to anchor a capstan by driving iron bars into the 
 roadway. Take, for instance, a bar of two inch round 
 iron, three feet long, and drawn down to a point on 
 one end. Such bars can be driven into a roadway, 
 with blows from a heavy sledge, for a distance of 
 30 in. Four or more such bars will anchor any capstan 
 
34 ERECTING WORK 
 
 or hand winch, and if the pull is not too heavy, will 
 serve for anchorage of the head block itself. It is pos- 
 sible, sometimes, to get hold of a coal hole in the side- 
 walk and tie to a bar across the inside stones. 
 
 There is one way always possible and always strong 
 enough to resist any pull that can be brought to bear 
 upon it, that is: locating a dead man. That means 
 simply taking a good stout grip on the earth. The 
 principle is that a lot of plank and blocking sunk deep 
 in the solid ground are good for a tremendous pull. 
 There is a good deal of tenacity in the ground itself 
 and this is its useful property that makes its weight 
 available. 
 
 A hole dug down 5 or 6 ft. deep, its depth de- 
 pending upon the kind of soil, 6 ft. long, crosswise 
 in the roadway and wide enough to get down into, 
 three feet is ample, furnishes the foundation. The 
 front side of this is partially covered with good three- 
 inch plank and a block across the plank gives the 
 something to pull on. A narrow and sloping trench 
 should be dug for the rope, going up at an angle no 
 steeper than 45 deg. and 30 is much better, and the 
 rope provided with a block wherever it tends to cut 
 down into a corner of the earth. Such a device is the 
 last resort, but it is always good. Its disadvantage is 
 the amount of work necessary to provide it and the 
 trouble encountered in digging such a hole in the 
 street. Fig. 45 shows a dead man. It is best to 
 locate this thing where it can be used more than once, 
 and for more than one purpose. If the front earth is 
 left overhanging, as shown in Fig. 45, it may be used 
 
HAULING HEAVY MACHINERY 
 
 35 
 
 for a more vertical pull, and is useful where a hoist 
 must be made from a winch and an anchorage found 
 for snatch blocks. By such methods and appliances 
 as here described, it is possible to move a shaft or any 
 
 FIG. 45 
 
 other heavy piece through town streets, making track 
 or blocking foundations where needed. And inasmuch 
 as the crank-shaft is not usually the first piece needed 
 in getting an engine in place on its foundation, it may 
 well be left standing on its rollers, without the entrance 
 to the building, while the balance of the machine is 
 taken from the cars. 
 
IV 
 
 RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 
 
 RAISING a large crank-shaft on blocking and lower- 
 ing it to its bearings requires a considerable degree of 
 engineering skill. Not as much skill, perhaps, as is 
 required in designing such a shaft, not as much re- 
 sponsibility involved. But there is a better precedent 
 established for a large shaft design. It is possible to 
 tell almost precisely what will happen to a 24-in. shaft, 
 for instance, when it holds up 50 tons and turns it over 
 80 times a minute. The engineer handling the shaft 
 knows what he has done before, but a new rigging has 
 to be devised every time, for no two jobs are alike and 
 the material at hand has to be used whether or not it 
 is well suited to the purpose. 
 
 Some way must be devised of raising the shaft up 
 and into the engine room. This may be done with 
 jacks and blocking, but inasmuch as all the material 
 must be raised to the engine room floor level, it is easier 
 to build a runway for the first piece and use it for every 
 other piece. That means it must be strong enough 
 and good enough to furnish passageway for the shaft. 
 
 More care is needed in building an incline to be used 
 for hauling machinery up than is necessary in build- 
 ing one for letting it down. The weight itself is no 
 
 36 
 
RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 37 
 
 greater, but there is a vast deal more pulling and 
 hauling to be done. In coming down friction is no 
 hindrance, while in going up it adds to the load; so 
 unless there is an abundance of pulling force to be had 
 conveniently, a good long run should be built. A slope 
 of one in six is steep enough and a longer one is better. 
 This angle is steeper than the angle of friction. A 
 shaft will keep moving after being once started on a 
 well-built runway sloping one in eight, or possibly one 
 in ten if it has plenty of rollers. It will not start of 
 its own accord, however, on a slope of one in ten from 
 a standstill; it takes very little to hold a shaft still on 
 an incline sloping one in eight, that is to prevent it 
 from starting of its own accord down hill. It takes no 
 great force to prevent it starting itself down an incline 
 of one in six; but it takes a pretty good pull to start 
 it up a steep slope, and as a rule one in six is fully the 
 limit of slope in the ordinary case and with ordinary 
 tools and rigging. If there is room it will pay to make 
 the runway longer. 
 
 For a long and high run, considerable timber will 
 be required and some method will have to be adopted 
 that will use only what is necessary. Cob house 
 blocking will answer and is easily built, but it requires 
 more material than does any other way. 
 
 It is better to do a little framing, as shown in Figs. 
 46 and 47. A wood column 10 in. square and 10 ft. 
 high will stand an enormous load, full as much as a 
 space of like area (10 in. square) will stand across the 
 grain as it would in a pile of blocking. Such a column 
 will hold up 30 tons with perfect safety and will stand 
 
ERECTING WORK 
 
 a good amount of abuse in the way of rough framing, 
 so that if bents are made, as shown in Fig. 47, and the 
 
 FIG. 46 
 
 main risers are 10 in. square, the bents will need to be 
 placed no closer than 12 ft. so far as they are them- 
 selves concerned, though of course for this long span 
 heavy string timber will have to be used on top. 
 
 FIG. 47 
 
 The framing itself is not difficult. It is not necessary, 
 of course, to make a tenon and mortise joint, nor even 
 need the pieces be halved together; ^but something 
 
RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 
 
 39 
 
 more than toe nailing is necessary. The easiest joint 
 is the double covering strips just as is found in the up- 
 to-date butt joint in a boiler, only plates are somewhat 
 thicker. Fig. 48 shows the method, simply two pieces 
 
 FIG. 48 
 
 of plank spiked to each of the two members, the plank 
 being long enough to get a good grip on at least one 
 piece. 
 
 The distance between uprights, Fig. 47, and also 
 the length of the cross piece should be determined by 
 the width between the skids of the heaviest piece, that 
 is the shaft, and the thing should be arranged so that 
 these uprights will come about under the skids. 
 
 The size of the cross pieces will depend upon the load 
 they are to carry. Ten by tens reaching across a span 
 of six feet and held down well with a good load at each 
 end can be trusted with a center load of about six tons, 
 but it will be difficult to make any great load come upon 
 those cross timbers at their centers, for they will give 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
40 ERECTING WORK 
 
 more than the columns will, so the middle stringer C, 
 Fig. 47, cannot be depended upon to take a third of 
 the load. If the long timbers for these stringers are 
 rather light it is better to have more bents and so 
 shorten up the span, rather than to trust too much to 
 the middle timber. For 12-in. square stringers a span 
 of six or seven feet is in good proportion, and even 
 then a middle stringer will be a convenience. It is not 
 the strength of the structure so much as its stiffness 
 that should be considered. The stiffer it is, the less it 
 gives under push and pull, the easier will things slide 
 up properly. 
 
 Each bent must be braced diagonally with plank 
 spiked on solidly, as shown at d and e, Fig. 47. These 
 diagonal planks will keep the thing stiff and able to 
 resist any side twist. It would be exceedingly unstable 
 without them. A high and curving trestle would 
 require more secure side bracing than here shown. 
 Further, each bent must be braced by diagonal plank 
 to each of its neighbors, as shown at x and g, Fig. 46. 
 These bind the whole thing together and add to the 
 solidity of the whole. The foundation may well be 
 two thicknesses of 3-in. plank or their equivalent 
 resting fairly upon the solid earth. These planks 
 should have a good bearing on stiff ground, over their 
 whole length, as nearly as may be for the whole load of 
 the column is concentrated at one point. Particular 
 care should be taken to see that there is at least a good 
 support directly under the point where the center of 
 the column comes. 
 
 If the incline is steep, it is best to break the sharp 
 
RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 41 
 
 depression at the entering point A, Fig. 46. The tend- 
 ency is in passing over any change in slope in the path 
 of a heavy piece on skids to concentrate the load at 
 one or two points. If the change is slight, the piece 
 will pass all right with a little care in arranging rollers 
 and a slight extra pull. If the change is abrupt, serious 
 damage may be done even so far as breaking the skids. 
 So it is well to break all those sharp corners and a few 
 pieces of block pared down to an easy taper will correct 
 any such hollow as that shown at A, Fig. 47. 
 
 It is usually somewhat more convenient in erecting an 
 engine of this kind, if the large door for entering ma- 
 chinery is at the end of the building, in the wall parallel 
 with the center line of the engine itself and out a little 
 way in front of the crank-shaft, so that a person stand- 
 ing in the doorway would look along down the engine 
 room in a line just passing the outer circumference of 
 the row of fly-wheels, if there are several engines. 
 There are fewer turns to be made in getting the parts 
 onto the foundation when this is the case. It is a 
 common thing to find, however, that the door itself is 
 more conveniently placed in the side of the building. 
 
 A runway in front of the engine foundation will 
 have to be built strong enough to hold up the shaft. 
 If there is a permanent floor already laid, it may be 
 stiffened up with shores and blocking. It will have to 
 be good and stiff, however, for loads will be concen- 
 trated at one spot by the jacks in raising the outfit to 
 its necessary level. Plenty of room must be left in 
 front of the door for turning the shaft about square 
 with the engine. It is frequently possible to avoid a 
 
42 ERECTING WORK 
 
 sharp corner by making a long turn; and an incline 
 trestle may be built upon a curve, increasing its length 
 and making less and easier work both in the raising 
 and the turning. But this is true only of long turns. 
 If the turn is so short that much jacking is necessary 
 for shifting the rollers, it is better to concentrate all 
 the turning at one place and then rig up and make a 
 business of it. Straight runs on rollers are easily 
 passed in good time and a long turn made by small cuts 
 in setting the rolls are not difficult, but a general jack- 
 ing all around every time a piece moves ahead its own 
 length takes up more time than is reasonable. 
 
 In the case at hand it might be possible to build the 
 incline neither perpendicular to, nor parallel with, the 
 wall having the entering door, but on a long winding 
 slant through the door cornerwise, if it is wide enough, 
 and lay along in front of the engine without any sharp 
 turns whatever. But in such a method the shaft is 
 never moving straight ahead and every roll is binding 
 against every other roll in its effort to do the guiding. 
 It is better to use the room in front of the door by get- 
 ting down a good stiff temporary floor and arranging to 
 jack the shaft around in that one spot. The sliding 
 can be done upon the rollers. Wood does not slide as 
 easily on wood as it does on iron, particularly when 
 the load is heavy, and less force would be necessary if 
 the rollers were taken out and strips of iron laid on 
 blocks were substituted. The objection to this is the 
 difficulty in taking rolls out and putting the blocking 
 in. Usually there is not room to haul a long roller out 
 straight. 
 
RUNWAYS ON AN INCLINE 43 
 
 One jack should be used at each end, on opposite 
 corners, one braced against the foundation or some 
 part of the engine frame, while the other goes up against 
 the wall of the building, and the ends will do all the 
 moving, the center standing still. 
 
 Whenever a jack is braced up against the wall of a 
 building, care should be taken to see that the wall itself 
 does not yield. Of course no wall will stand all the 
 load that can be brought upon it sideways with a jack. 
 It is possible to stiffen things up with plank and block- 
 ing so that a large area will be taken in. Sometimes, 
 it is well to give the jack a small rising slant so that it 
 will have a slight lifting tendency as it shoves the shaft 
 around. This may distribute the load better. Rollers 
 should be laid out so that the shaft may come about 
 on them, the last rolls being laid square with the new 
 direction which the shaft is to take. The rollers will 
 have to be rearranged after the shaft is wholly turned; 
 but this is done easily with the jack and sledge. 
 
WORK FOR A GIN POLE 
 
 THERE are always four or five wagon-loads of stuff 
 belonging to an engine after the large pieces have been 
 taken from the cars. Connecting-rods, cross-heads 
 and pistons, valves and valve-gear, the governor and 
 its connections, all in boxes, or secured to plank and 
 skids; the piping between cylinders with gate-valves 
 for same; the air-pump and its fittings if the engine is 
 to have a condenser, all go to swell the total. And 
 that loose stuff takes up a lot of room, too. Most of 
 it must be stowed away under cover, for it is not best 
 to leave finished and polished stuff out of doors where 
 it can be injured, and all that can be taken care of is 
 put around the engine room. All this material added 
 to the blocking and rigging from the heavy pieces, 
 blocking from the shafts, for instance, fills the engine 
 room pretty full, and some care and management will 
 be called for in placing the parts so that those needed 
 first will not be at the bottom of the heap and the whole 
 outfit have to be dug over three or four times. The 
 eight valves may be safely kept in their boxes and 
 placed at the bottom, followed by valve-gear and 
 running-gear. Piping and condenser rigging should 
 be kept separate, for that will be needed immediately 
 
 44 
 
WORK FOR A GIN POLE 45 
 
 after the machine is lined up in order to blow out 
 cylinders and ports. Fly-wheel bolts should be acces- 
 sible, for they will be needed as soon as the shaft is in 
 place. The governor or governors, if there be two, 
 will not be needed till toward the last end. But it 
 may be advisable to have those where they can be 
 hauled out. The governors have a property that no 
 other part does. An engine appears pretty well along 
 in its process of erection when the governor is up. It 
 looks decidedly bare when it is without its governors. 
 It is a good plan to bolt on such a piece the day after 
 the lining up is over. It makes a profound impression 
 upon the audience, and will take the curse off of three 
 or four bad days days when the public believes that 
 things have gone slowly, and that the man setting the 
 job up doesn't know much any way. 
 
 There is little in the way of lifting that cannot be 
 done with jacks; but the slide section of the engine is 
 about the worst piece to handle. It is not very 
 heavy, but there is nothing to take hold of with a 
 jack, and even after it is up high enough it must be 
 slid ahead, square and level, in order to enter the 
 counterbore made for it in the frame. It is a difficult 
 matter to slide the thing ahead on rollers and 
 blocking. 
 
 The slide section of the engine of the size here written 
 of 1 200 horse-power can best be handled with a 
 stout gin pole. There are engines having slides cast 
 with a foundation bearing all over the whole bottom 
 surface. Of course, such a piece can be slid up and 
 brought in line with wedges very easily. The section 
 
46 ERECTING WORK 
 
 here described is one made by most of the builders 
 now, having no foundation support between cylinder 
 and frame. Fig. 49 shows a side view of such a slide 
 and end view in Fig. 50. 
 
 FIG. 49 
 
 The slide should be laid along the foundation roughly 
 in the general line it is to take when bolted in place on 
 its skids and rollers. Then the gin pole is to be stood 
 up over it and the fall made ready to hoist. A iox 10 
 pole, 1 6 ft. long, will answer here. In selecting a 
 pole for hoisting material of this kind it is well to pick 
 out a good long stick once for all and use it for nothing 
 
WORK FOR A GIN POLE 
 
 47 
 
 else. The corners of the bottom end should be rounded 
 up, so that at whatever angle the pole may stand the 
 pressure will come in part way toward the center. 
 Then the head block may be lashed securely to the 
 top; also the main guy blocks. This work once done 
 will save some time, for it need not be disturbed. The 
 
 FIG. 50 
 
 head block for the hoist should be at least three sheaves 
 for iHn. rope. This will handle a load of six tons 
 with a good new rope, even if there are but two sheaves 
 in the bottom block. 
 
 For greater loads more rigging can be used, but it 
 
48 ERECTING WORK 
 
 may be of the same kind, making no change except 
 adding a greater quantity. Supposing the main hoist- 
 ing blocks to be a three sheave at the top and a two 
 sheave at the bottom; this will give five hoisting ropes, 
 and with a 6-ton load only 2400 Ibs. can come on 
 one rope. An inch and a quarter line will hold that 
 load, even after it has seen some wear, though no rope 
 can be trusted with a load after it has seen abuse. 
 
 With a snatch block lashed to the load the rope's 
 end may be led through and back to the head of the 
 gin pole, increasing the safe load to seven tons and 
 over. And another snatch block may be lashed to the 
 top of the pole, which will allow the line to be brought 
 back and made fast to the load. These two extra 
 lines increase the original safe load 40 per cent. Of 
 course, this might be carried on, adding snatch block 
 after snatch block, and adding one useful rope for each 
 snatch block. But it is better to add another set of 
 blocks than to go too far in this direction. In fact, any- 
 thing more than one added block at the bottom and 
 one more at the top is unusual. 
 
 It is possible to cover a somewhat limited area with 
 a gin pole 16 ft. long; that is, its head may be moved 
 about, carrying the load with it, while the foot is 
 stationary. And it does not take any great force to 
 move sideways, provided the whole load is not upon 
 the particular guy fall, which must be hauled in. It 
 is more difficult to move a gin pole loaded, back and 
 forth, for then the load has to be lifted. 
 
 With a heavy load the top of a i6-ft. pole may be 
 moved to cover an area about five feet square, pro- 
 
WORK FOR A GIN POLE 49 
 
 vided the casting itself does not take up so much room 
 that the proper angle cannot be assumed by the pole. 
 A movement of five feet does not make a very good 
 traveling crane, but it is so much better than nothing 
 that it is of accepted value. Care should be taken in 
 arranging guy falls so that no overload will come there. 
 There is frequently more stress thrown upon these falls 
 collectively than the hoisting fall has to stand itself; 
 and this stress is the greater as the slope of the pole 
 increases, starting from a vertical line, and also as the 
 
 FIG. 51 
 
 guys themselves are made shorter and more nearly 
 approach a vertical. So long guys, as nearly horizon- 
 tal as may be, and a vertical pole place the least stress 
 on all parts. About 30 deg. from a vertical is the 
 usual limit of pole angle for a heavy load, and there 
 should be three guys led back, one at the center of 
 the load and the other two stretched out, including 
 an angle of about 90 deg. in all. Fig. 51 shows their 
 angular relations, which is a plan view in diagram. 
 The load tends to pull the pole over in the direction L. 
 
50 ERECTING WORK 
 
 The guy A would itself prevent this, and if it were 
 strong enough could hold the pole upright. But the 
 pole would, of course, be very unstable and could not 
 be trusted for an instant. So the additional guys B 
 and C are led off to prevent the outfit from falling side- 
 ways. Also, it is evident that by hauling in on line C 
 while slacking line B and holding line A fast, all at the 
 same time, the pole and its load must go over toward C. 
 Also, by taking in on all three lines, A, B, and C, at 
 the same time must pull the load over toward A, while 
 slacking off all three together, the load falls and moves 
 in the direction L. It is evident that in moving 
 toward A the load is raised, and that all three falls 
 should be hauled in at the same time, for if A alone 
 were taken in it would take the whole of the guy load, 
 and in addition to becoming unstable might part, due 
 to too great a load. The two guys B and C together 
 hold about as much as guy A does alone. 
 
 Sometimes the snatch block for leading the hauling 
 rope over toward the hoisting drum is lashed to the 
 foot of the gin pole. This is allowable, provided this 
 foot is securely held. It gives a pull on the foot of the 
 pole nearly equal to the pull on the rope, and the foot 
 must have anchorage equal to this added load. It is 
 usually better to lash the snatch block to some other 
 fixture a part of the engine, or a foundation bolt 
 for instance. 
 
 Making a hitch of lashing for the hook in the lower 
 block on a piece, such as shown in Fig. 49, is not dif- 
 ficult, and a number of good ones may be devised. 
 Whatever is adopted it should be made so that the 
 
WORK FOR A GIN POLE 51 
 
 hook may be shifted a little in order to bring the piece 
 to balance approximately level 1 . The easiest way is to 
 take three or four turns of inch or inch and a quarter 
 rope at each end, as shown at A and B, Fig. 49, bind- 
 ing four strands or more of ij-in. rope, pulled up 
 rather tight, into which the hook is fastened. 
 
 The hand winch will pull up this load easily. As it 
 comes up it will be easy to see whether it is balanced 
 properly, and if not it must be lowered of? and the hooks 
 slipped along a little. It is possible, with a piece 
 nicely hung, to bring it up and swing it up to its place 
 square and level, changing the guys, B, C, and A, to 
 bring this about. Then a screw-jack placed at the 
 back end will allow the hitch to be removed after 
 bolting up. 
 
VI 
 
 RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 
 
 THE section of a fly-wheel for a 1200 horse- 
 power engine may weigh five or six tons. The rim 
 itself is nearly square in cross-section, and an arm 
 is cast right with the section coming out radially from 
 the center of its arc. So there are as many sections 
 as there are arms. 
 
 A fly-wheel section looks to be an awkward piece to 
 handle. It cannot be skidded very well and there is 
 not much surface for a roller. But they can be handled 
 and upon rollers without skids. Most of the weight is 
 in the rim. Probably there is less than a ton and a 
 half in the arm itself. Those arms are frequently 
 cored out for a portion of their length. A solid arm 
 must, of course, weigh more. So if rollers are placed 
 crosswise to the length of the rim, they take about 
 four-fifths of the weight and the hub end of the arm 
 weighing less than a ton can be pinched around with a 
 crowbar. Fig. 52 shows the method of handling these 
 pieces. The piece is guided with a crow-bar at D 
 sometimes held back and sometimes pried ahead, for 
 it is possible to so place the hitch that the hub end of 
 the arm will be hauled around instead of rolling the 
 rim end. The section can be rolled down the stringers 
 5 2 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 
 
 53 
 
 to the wagon and loaded on sideways, that is at the 
 side of the wagon. It is possible, of course, to load it 
 at the end of the wagon, but in that case the end of the 
 arm must be lifted over the top of the hind wheel, and 
 there is nothing to be gained by loading in this way 
 for one piece will make a load for a good team of 
 horses. 
 
 nA 
 
 PIG. 52 
 
 Such a piece should not be left on the car, flat, with 
 nothing under the rim to allow of entering the toe of a 
 jack. When a section does lie so, it is best to begin 
 to raise the arm at its center end. This will open up a 
 space all over the rim except at a single point on the 
 outer edge as at A, Fig. 52. Then as thick a piece of 
 blocking as can be gotten under should be placed at 
 point B, and the arm lowered to the floor again. This 
 will tip up one end of the rim, as C about twice the 
 thickness of the block at B. Then a stone jack can 
 enter its toe at C, and the section can be raised very 
 easily all over and with only one jack. 
 
 It is seldom necessary to go from one end to the 
 
54 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 other of a heavy piece with a jack when only one jack 
 is to be had. It is always possible with any fairly 
 regular shaped piece to go up with both ends and keep 
 the jack continually at one end. 
 
 For instance, suppose the load to be represented by 
 Fig. 53. The center of weight or the center of gravity 
 
 FIG. 53 
 
 goes up when one end is raised and the other stands 
 still. Then if a block is placed at A, a little past the 
 center, the opposite end, B, must come up when the 
 jack is lowered off, away down to its limit. Now a 
 block as thick as possible should be placed at B, Fig. 53, 
 and the jack again made to raise end C. Now a thicker 
 block can be placed at A, the jack lowered and the 
 opening at B filled again. This method saves carry- 
 ing the jack back and forth and is very rapid even 
 for pieces of considerable size; for when two jacks are 
 used, only one can be*moving at a time. 
 
 The receiver of a 1200 horse-power engine is usually 
 an awkward and ungainly affair, at least so far as 
 handling it is concerned. It may weigh about three 
 or three and one-half tons, so that no great force is 
 needed to move it; and if it lies on skids with a small 
 cradle cross-piece at each end it will slide along all 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 
 
 55 
 
 right when on rollers. It is handled just as a cylinder 
 is handled and hauled over to the engine room on a 
 truck. 
 
 There is usually a place for the receiver of a large 
 engine and if that place is under the floor, it is well to 
 drop it down between the foundations, bolt its legs on 
 once for all and leave it roughly in its proper position, 
 out of the way before its passage is blocked by the 
 shaft, or by any other part and ready to be piped up. 
 
 If a large receiver is to be stood up on end and 
 lowered down beneath the floor, something more than 
 jacks will be needed. While it is possible to do any- 
 thing in the way of lifting weights with jacks and 
 blocking, the process is exceedingly slow for long lifts. 
 
 An engine erector is entitled to the hope that there 
 is something in the roof or ceiling of his engine room 
 strong enough to pull on, say with moderate loads; 
 a roof truss that can be trusted safely with a ton or 
 more, or some main timber within easy reach. If the 
 roof trusses will hold a ton at each of two of their joints, 
 it is easy to rig up overhead work that will lift four 
 tons; for two timbers can be placed, reaching from the 
 joints of one truss to the joints of the next, and the 
 blocks slung from these timbers. Sometimes there are 
 no trusses, however, and the ceiling is as smooth as 
 can be; then if there is no overhead rigging, something 
 must be done to make some. 
 
 It is always possible to provide a gin pole out of the 
 lumber at hand. A ten by ten square timber, 16 ft. 
 long, can be trusted safely with fifteen tons, even 
 when swung off at an angle and held with rope falls 
 
56 ERECTING WORK 
 
 for guys. It would very likely hold more than this; 
 but it is unusual to trust such a load, or even ten 
 tons to the rigging that can be hung from a single 
 stick. 
 
 In the case of this receiver the gin poles need not be 
 1 6 ft. long; 10 or 12 ft. is plenty and it will be most 
 convenient to use two poles, one for each end. Sticks 
 eight inches square are large enough, or even six inches 
 if the timber is good and sound. The whole load will 
 be thrown onto one pole, however, before the receiver 
 is in place and allowance should, of course, be made 
 for this. Also, the pole will not bear as much weight 
 when it is swung off at an angle and held by guy lines 
 as it would were it straight and held stiff under a mill 
 floor, for instance. 
 
 The receiver may be run in between the two founda- 
 tions, timber being strung across from one foundation 
 to the other and plank laid down to furnish a tem- 
 porary runway. It will appear, then, as shown in 
 Fig. 54 and in Fig. 55, the first an end view and the 
 second a side view of the receiver and its rigging. 
 
 *The foot of the pole should come against a block, B, 
 Fig. 54, to prevent its slipping in that direction. If the 
 lift is not to be a straight one, and frequently it is not, 
 the foot of the poles should be securely lashed to some 
 solid fixture. Also guy lines should be led off, at least 
 two, and if much movement sideways is required 
 three will be needed. An inch fall makes the most 
 convenient guy, for it can be taken up or slacked off 
 most easily. 
 
 One great advantage of a gin pole over any sort of 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 
 
 57 
 
 FIG. 54 
 
 overhead rigging is that it can be moved through a 
 considerable arc, carrying load with it, by slacking or 
 by hauling in the guy lines; and, of course, a rope fall 
 is very convenient for such work. 
 
 55 
 
 The two pair of falls for the hoist here may be one 
 and one-quarter inch rope through pair of three and 
 
58 ERECTING WORK 
 
 two sheave blocks, or even one inch rope will answer 
 through blocks of the same size if the rope is new. 
 
 The hitch on the receiver will have to be made with 
 some care, particularly the top end. The whole thing 
 is to end up while being supported by this hitch and 
 provision must be made for the slipping of the hook in 
 
 FIG. 56 
 
 the bite. The easiest way to do this will be to use a 
 sling of one and one-half inch rope, and lash the sling 
 to the top end, as shown at A, Fig 55, with a number 
 of turns of one and one-quarter inch rope, say five 
 turns. This lashing must be wound as tight as can be 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 
 
 59 
 
 made by hand, and brought up close under the flange 
 for the top head. This flange is what holds the hitch 
 in place, of course. At least one round turn should 
 be made by the sling about the lashing at top and 
 bottom to prevent the slipping sideways. This is 
 made apparent in Fig. 56, which shows the receiver 
 dropped down to its landing. The sling need be 
 nothing more than a piece of one and one-half in. rope 
 made into a sling by tying a square knot for joining 
 the two ends after the hitch is made. The hitch at 
 the bottom end is nothing but a piece of inch and a 
 half rope wound four times around the receiver with 
 two of the bites passed up through the hook. The two' 
 turns about the barrel that do not pass through the 
 hook keep the whole hitch tight and in place. This is 
 one of the main principles of using rope in rigging. 
 Another principle is that of using many turns where 
 a lashing must be made tight with the two ends tied 
 together after the turns have been made in a knot of 
 some kind. There must be a little slack at the knot 
 when the bends come. If there were but one turn, all 
 this slack must go into that one and however tight 
 the rope was pulled at first, the result must be loose. 
 If six or eight turns be taken instead of one, that slack 
 divides itself into six or eight parts and the whole 
 hitch will be pretty tight. 
 
 Now something will have to be provided for hauling 
 the lines of the main hoists. This would not be neces- 
 sary were chain falls used, for two men can lift tons 
 with chain blocks. But one disadvantage of the chain 
 fall is its limited amount of motion. If the chain is 
 
6o 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 made long enough for a long hoist, the spare chain is 
 much in the way on short hoists. A hand winch is the 
 machine for this work, provided there is no steam 
 winch to be had conveniently. 
 
 There is but one capstan drum on a hand winch, or 
 but one drum of any kind, and as this receiver must be 
 raised and held up at each end in order to clear away 
 the blocking, one of the ends must be raised at a time 
 and held there while the other end uses the winch. 
 It is best to begin with the bottom end, as this is lighter 
 and can be easily slacked of? from some stationary 
 
 anchorage. There will be required a pull of about 
 eight hundred pounds to raise the one end, and as this 
 is only a short lift, not over four inches to clear block- 
 ing, it could be done with a luff. But the winch is all 
 there and ready, and is easily used. The bite only of 
 the hauling part of the fall need be passed around the 
 drum for these small short lifts. There is, of course, 
 an extra part of the rope which is somewhat in the 
 way, but this saves handling the long leading line over 
 so many times. The drum will look as in Fig. 57, and 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 61 
 
 one man can haul in on the slack line, A, without any 
 trouble, keeping the loose rope out of the gears of the 
 winch beside. 
 
 When the bottom end of the receiver is up four or 
 five inches, enough to clear blocking and a little more 
 to allow for what will be lost in making fast twice, 
 some way must be devised for getting the hauling part 
 of the fall away from the winch and holding it tight 
 all the time in order not to let the load back and still 
 have it possible to pay out one hundred feet or so of 
 line in lowering off. The first move will be to seize 
 two of the ropes on the fall with good stout twine - 
 marline is excellent for this but a strand of old rope 
 will answer. Every rope in a fall moves in reference to 
 every other rope when the fall itself is hauled in or let 
 out ; so if this relative motion of the ropes is prevented 
 from taking place, the fall is held fast and the load 
 with it. For this purpose two ropes should be chosen 
 whose relative motion is great; the greater the better, 
 for less stress is put upon the binding then. The two 
 ropes which have the greatest relative motion are, of 
 course, the hauling part, and the same rope after it 
 passes once over the head block, numbered + 5 and 
 
 - 5 in Fig. 58. In a set of 3-2 blocks as there shown, 
 the relative motion is ten times the movement of the 
 load and so only one-tenth of the load on the block 
 could come on this binding. But it is not usually con- 
 venient to get hold of the hauling line and bind it to 
 one of the other lines. 
 
 The next best pair of ropes are numbered + 5 and 
 
 - 3, and here the load divides itself by eight before it 
 
62 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 comes to the binding, and as these two can be gotten at 
 readily the fall in side view will appear as shown in 
 Fig. 59. Of course, any pair of ropes might then be 
 bound together, even two on the same side of the 
 
 i-s 
 
 -f3 
 
 fl 
 
 FIG. 58 
 
 sheaves, as + i and + 3. But one-half of the total 
 load would come on the binding then, tending to make 
 it slip; and when the leading line was slacked there 
 would be only two ropes holding the load. For bind- 
 ing in this way, always select a pair of ropes nearest 
 the hauling part and two running over the same sheave 
 in the head block, or tail block. 
 
 The relative values of the ropes and their relative mo- 
 tion is shown in Fig. 58, where the load is supposed to 
 go up one part. The motion of the other ropes is shown 
 by the figures adjacent, the + sign showing upward, 
 and sign showing downward movement of the rope. 
 
RIGGING FOR THE RECEIVER 63 
 
 When the ropes have been securely bound, the lead- 
 ing line now on the winch may be taken off and led 
 over to some stationary post, or part of the building, 
 wrapped around about three turns and then tied fast. 
 The bottom end of the receiver is now hung in the fall, 
 and the winch is free to pull up the top end: Four 
 inches will be found enough and then all blocking, 
 skids and plank can be removed, and a hole made 
 through the temporary floor for passing the receiver 
 through. 
 
 FIG. 59 
 
 Now the fall holding up the bottom end of the piece 
 may be slowly slacked off and the receiver will right 
 itself, nearly straight up and down. The fall on the 
 winch in now slacked away and the piece slowly 
 lowered to place, being straightened if necessary with 
 a small watch tackle giving a pull over on top. 
 
VII 
 
 MOVING A CYLINDER 
 
 IT is always easier to get a horizontal engine together 
 when the engine room is so arranged that the large 
 opening for entrance of machinery is in front of the 
 fly-wheel and the cylinder may be rolled into place 
 before any of the other parts are in the building. 
 When this is not the case, the shaft must be rolled in 
 and laid over against the wall in front, while the 
 frames are being brought in. Then the shaft may 
 be rolled into place and the room cleared of lumber. 
 
 There are no pieces outside of the shaft of a 1200 
 horse-power engine that will need to be rolled through 
 the streets on plank and rollers. A good, stout wind- 
 lass truck will carry cylinders, slides and frames 
 easily, one at a time. 
 
 Usually the cylinders of an engine are loaded onto 
 the car lengthwise, that is, with center line of cylinder 
 parallel with the long edge of the car. It is possible 
 to handle a cylinder, even a 52-in. low pressure, side- 
 ways, and load it onto the truck, just as was the 
 crank-shaft onto its first section of blocking. But 
 there is nothing to be gained by it, and nobody ever 
 does so. The cylinder should be jacked around 
 square with the car and shoved lengthwise onto the 
 
 6 4 
 
MOVING A CYLINDER 65 
 
 wagon. There is nothing hard about jacking a cylin- 
 der around. There is always a nice handy place for 
 the toe of a jack, and here of all places is a stone jack 
 convenient. Place the toe of the jack at point A, 
 Fig. 60, and go up far enough to clear a strip of half- 
 inch iron, of width two inches, or of any other width, 
 and also high enough to pull out and clear the nails 
 
 FIG. 60 
 
 with which the cylinder skids are nailed to floor bottom. 
 Go to the other end and get another half-inch strip 
 under, and things are ready to slide. Two blocks of 
 wood should be spiked to the car floor for footings for 
 jacks, one at each end, as in Fig. 61, and the jacks will 
 squeeze the piece around very handily. The flat iron, 
 makes things slip easily and it need not be disturbed 
 once under. When the piece is around square, the 
 jacks can be put at A again and three or four rollers 
 slid under on top of four inches of plank. 
 
 The wagon floor is some 15 in. lower than the car 
 floor, and some stringers will have to be laid down to 
 reach down and across. They need not be very long, 
 however, 6 or 8 ft. is enough, and if the stringers 
 
66 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 are of 6-inch stuff they will be stiff enough to hold 
 whatever load is to come upon them. The wagon 
 wheels should be blocked with a good big chock and 
 the load slowly slid on. If there is a windlass on the 
 wagon, the easiest way to move the load is, of course, 
 to run a line back from the drum around the cylinder. 
 The rope should be protected where it goes over and 
 around sharp corners with old cloth or bagging, for it 
 
 
 FIG. 6l 
 
 is sharp corners that cut ropes. The cylinder will start 
 without much of a pull on the rope and can be kept 
 moving easily. A good stout rope or a small fall 
 should be hitched to the back end of the cylinder to 
 hold it back when it goes down the incline. Any part 
 of the car, a stake hold, or some part of the under trus- 
 sing, will answer for an anchorage for the head block, 
 and one man with a turn or two about any convenient 
 rail will hold and steady the piece down the hill. 
 
MOVING A CYLINDER 67 
 
 It is a good plan, frequently a necessary precaution, 
 to prop up the wagon where the end of the inclined 
 stringers come. As the cylinder comes down the 
 stringers, fully half and perhaps more of the weight is 
 concentrated at that one point, while the truck will 
 hold the load all right when spread out on the skids; 
 it will not hold it when heaped right onto one spot. 
 Two upright pieces of four by four resting on a plank 
 on the ground will hold the wagon platform up stiff 
 and strong. This precaution applies also when a jack 
 is being used to raise one end, as in taking out or put- 
 ting in rollers. Blocking on the axle is sometimes 
 sufficient. In a case such as this, these are all the 
 precautions necessary, for the load comes on at the 
 back of the wagon and is nicely distributed all over 
 its surface. 
 
 Whenever any piece is loaded upon a spring wagon 
 it must be remembered that the springs give. Some- 
 times a weight has to be slid off over one front corner. 
 If the front axle is provided with a platform spring 
 there is a good chance of that corner going down and 
 the load being dropped to the ground. No weight of 
 any consequence ought to be slid either on or off a 
 spring wagon's front end without first shoring up the 
 two front corners. 
 
 A cylinder may be well left upon its rollers when on 
 the wagon. The rope leading to the windlass should 
 still be fast upon it, taking two or three extra turns for 
 safety, and it can be hauled over to the engine room 
 in this way. 
 
 It is an easy matter to take a cylinder off a wagon, 
 
68 ERECTING WORK 
 
 whether the tops of foundations are high or low. If 
 there is a fall down to the street level, an inclined run- 
 way can be built from the tail end of the wagon, and 
 the cylinder will roll down of its own accord with 
 nothing but the rope from the windlass on the wagon 
 to hold it from going too fast. Frequently the plat- 
 form of such a wagon or truck slopes back to a low 
 hind end. This makes unloading down to ground level 
 all the easier, for it makes the corner, where there is a 
 change in angle of descent, less sharp. 
 
 Before letting a load come upon the engine room 
 floor, in passing from threshold to foundation, with 
 this cylinder, for instance, the floor timbers should be 
 looked over. Many floors will not stand much load- 
 ing, and in shoving machinery over a floor loads are 
 liable to become concentrated at some weak spot. 
 A weak floor must be shored up with sound and heavy 
 timber. Ten by ten squares will answer in most 
 basements, stood up on a good plank platform and 
 coming up under a good thick piece, supporting two 
 or three joists. Half a dozen such struts will stiffen 
 up a good big area of floor. If the floor itself is light 
 it can be covered with 2-in. plank. 
 
 There is some science in steering a piece on rollers by 
 getting the proper angle for the rollers. A weight on 
 an angle roller will move, of course, square with the 
 roller, and clearly enough it makes no difference as to 
 the shape of the piece. Fig. 62 illustrates this point. 
 The weight here will move square across the roller 
 just as it does in Fig. 63. Friction itself prevents it 
 from doing anything else, unless it is shoved over by 
 
MOVING A CYLINDER 
 
 69 
 
 some force acting not in the direction of proper motion. 
 So a roller should be placed square with the direction 
 
 FIG. 62 
 
 in which it is intended to move the weight, and the 
 friction of load upon roller and of roller upon plank will 
 tend to make it take that direction when a force is 
 
 FIG. 63 
 
 applied. And it is nothing but friction that makes it 
 take this direction. 
 This matter becomes more complicated when there 
 
7o 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 are two or more rollers. In Fig. 64 rollers are parallel, 
 and the weight moves square with each. Fig. 65 gives 
 
 FIG. 64 
 
 a case commonly met with. The load is intended to 
 bear off to the right and the front roller is cut around 
 and the front end of the piece tends to move on a 
 tangent to the right, while the rear end tries to keep 
 
 on straight ahead. The piece itself is rigid, and, of 
 course, something has got to slip. The slipping comes 
 
MOVING A CYLINDER 71 
 
 where slipping is easiest. If there is an equal load on 
 the two rollers the slipping divides itself equally 
 between the two, unless one roller happens to be 
 smoother than the other. In the case shown above, 
 the motion of the whole thing is about half way be- 
 tween these two directions, always providing the pull- 
 ing force does not compel it to do something else. 
 But the weight does not stay distributed equally 
 more than an instant. As the load moves onward, 
 more and more weight comes upon the front roller, 
 relieving the rear roller, and the direction becomes 
 more and more oblique, till the front roller has the 
 entire weight and does all the guiding. It is possible 
 in this way to make a weight turn quite a sharp corner. 
 More pulling force will be needed, the load must move 
 harder, for something has to provide the slipping force, 
 and this may limit the shortest of the turn, for short 
 turns pull hardest. 
 
 The guiding becomes more difficult when the num- 
 ber of rollers becomes greater, sometimes eight or ten 
 or more on a long heavy load. It frequently happens 
 on entering a cut roller, when there are only four rollers 
 under in all, that no change in direction whatever 
 takes place, even after the roller is some way under 
 and has taken its load. The reason is, of course, that 
 it is doing what it can, but the other rollers have three- 
 quarters of the load, and they are determined that the 
 thing shall keep on straight. So if a decided turn 
 must be made, the direction of half the rollers should 
 be changed. This can usually be done by striking 
 at A, Fig. 65, with a heavy sledge or a timber ram. 
 
72 ERECTING WORK 
 
 If, however, the roller does not yield readily, the load 
 should be relieved at this point with a jack and the 
 roller then pounded around. Usually when a roller 
 cannot be pounded around with the weight upon it, 
 it will have some say in directing the load when the 
 time comes to move. 
 
 When a roller is cut around, one end will begin to 
 roll under the load till finally that end is away under 
 the nearest skid. The dotted line in Fig. 65 shows this. 
 The other end will be sticking away out ready to catch 
 door casings or anything else in the way, and must be 
 moved back. A jack is needed here. For wherever 
 a roller is pounded endwise with any force it starts to 
 split. Such practise should not be allowed among a 
 gang of men. It is easier, but half a dozen good clips 
 will spoil the best roller ever turned. 
 
 It is sometimes necessary to jack one end of a cylinder 
 or other weight around, supposing, for instance, that one 
 end is too near a door casing. It is enough to place 
 the jack horizontally and the load will go around, pro- 
 vided there is any weight upon the roller nearest the 
 jack. If all the load is at the center, or even a good 
 share of it, the piece simply turns about that center; 
 one end goes out while the other comes in, and nothing 
 is gained so far as a shove over is concerned. A good 
 share of the load must be made to come where the jack 
 is placed if it is desired to move one end only. This 
 will be known by the relative looseness of the rollers 
 at the unloaded end, and before trying to move over 
 sideways, some load should be taken here by blocking 
 up the rollers an inch, or whatever is necessary. 
 
MOVING A CYLINDER 
 
 73 
 
 There are always some gaps in the surface of a foun- 
 dation. There must be one at least for the exhaust 
 pipe, and frequently an opening is left under the slide. 
 These spaces are 24 in. wide or so. Planks can be laid 
 across for a footing for rollers and the surface made 
 continuous temporarily. This is not necessary, how- 
 ever. If the width of a space is less than one-half the 
 length of the cylinder itself (not the overall length of 
 the skids), it can be passed very nicely, at least with 
 anything but the largest sizes of cylinders. The prin- 
 
 FIG. 66 
 
 ciple is that of the cantilever, and is shown in Fig. 66. 
 The roller A does not drop down until roller B is just 
 ready to catch its load. Rollers have to be watched, 
 and rollers A and B should be good and sound, for on a 
 wide gap they catch nearly the whole weight of the 
 outfit, and if the load is too much for one roller the gap 
 must be filled with blocking. 
 
 By such methods as these may a cylinder be rolled 
 to its place, its skids removed and lowered down to its 
 capstones resting on some strips of iron, to allow of 
 entering a wedge when the time comes. 
 
74 ERECTING WORK 
 
 So also a slide section is hauled over on its skids; 
 and the pillow-block section or main frame, the best of 
 all to handle, for its weight is so low down and all six 
 pieces may be strung along the foundation. 
 
VIII 
 
 UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 
 
 Two equal and opposite unbalanced forces applied 
 to a rigid body will make it turn about its center of 
 gravity. So with a crank-shaft, skidded and lying on 
 a flat car. But the forces must both be unbalanced; 
 and it is easy to tell when they are unbalanced, for the 
 shaft will not move until they are. When the forces 
 are sufficient, as for instance, the forces or pull coming 
 from two leads to a hoisting engine drum and one of its 
 capstan heads, the shaft ends around just as if it were 
 on a pivot. It looks a little mite unusual at first, and 
 the awful consequences of a dropped shaft do loom 
 up, but there is not a safer or handier way of ending a 
 shaft around. (Fig. 67). It is not always necessary 
 to end a shaft around, however, to get it off its car. 
 Sometimes it can be slid off the end; and if the shaft 
 must be hauled along in the direction of the track for a 
 ways, it is better of course to take the shaft off side- 
 ways. Then new skids must be provided, lying be- 
 neath and across the others. They are short and need 
 not be very heavy, however; 10 X io's are heavy 
 enough, or even three 8 X 8's at each end. This will 
 mean a good deal of jacking, lifting the shaft straight 
 up, for there are the ten inches of short skid, eight 
 
 75 
 
7 6 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 inches of roller and there should be three inches more 
 for planks for the roller to go upon, for they will bind 
 the cribbing to the car and can be taken out when the 
 
 FIG. 67 
 
 shaft has been moved over and is being raised again to 
 
 straighten the rollers. The skids and rollers will appear 
 
 as shown in Fig. 68 when the shaft is ready to move. 
 
 It is apparent that great care should be used in plac- 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 
 
 77 
 
78 ERECTING WORK 
 
 ing jacks properly, and blocks should be so laid that 
 they will take weight properly. In beginning to raise 
 the shaft, the first hold is liable to be under one of the 
 cranks, point A, Fig. 68. As pressure is brought on, 
 the whole outfit should be watched to see that it all 
 comes together square and even, that there is no tend- 
 ency to slip or twist the jack, that its hold is good. 
 Also the skids must be kept from spreading. If they 
 are to be used more than once, long bolts should be 
 run through from side to side with 8x8 cross braces 
 to make things rigid. And one end only should be 
 raised at a time. One end must rest solidly on block- 
 ing while the other is resting upon a jack. Whenever 
 any weight rests upon three points with its center of 
 weight inside the three, it is stable; so there must be 
 always three points of support. In this case the 
 friction of the other two keeps the jack in place and 
 upright. If things move along properly there is no 
 reason why the jack under A cannot be pumped up 
 high enough to allow a 4-in. plank to be placed 
 under at point M, precisely under the skid blocking 
 which comes up under the shaft. A 4-in. block 
 would answer, but when the other end is jacked up, 
 starting under the crank as before, the weight is thrown 
 cornerwise on the square block and it tends to tip up. 
 This is prevented by placing a good wide plank under 
 at M. In all this jacking the weight should be fol- 
 lowed up closely with inch pieces and wedges, having 
 surface enough so that they will not crush. When 
 both ends are up four inches, both resting upon plank, 
 the two jacks can be brought to one end, their toes 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 79 
 
 placed at M, as nearly as may be, one on each side of 
 the shaft, and things can be made to move faster. 
 Eight inches can be gained at this one setting, or if 
 the blocking seems all right, the jack can be shoved 
 out to nearly its limit. It will take something more 
 than plank to take the weight at the high end now. 
 There are twelve inches to be blocked up and the prin- 
 ciple of the cob house will have to be applied. Nothing 
 could be more unstable than two 4-in. square blocks 
 piled lengthwise one on top of the other, unless 
 perhaps it be three such blocks. If they are depended 
 upon to hold anything except weight, they are sure to 
 topple over. If, however, two blocks, say six or eight 
 inch, be laid lengthwise one on each side of each skid, 
 two or three 2-in. plank laid across, the whole thing 
 will make up the distance and allow the other end of 
 the shaft to be raised. That end can be put right up 
 to its place now, though it would be better to go only 
 half way and bring the end up last from a 4-in. rise. 
 The skids should, of course, not be allowed to rest 
 upon a corner of a plank, with the whole weight of that 
 end coming at that point. The outfit in coming up 
 one end at a time must of course be out of level, and a 
 platform of two planks or more, with wedges and inch 
 pieces, should be used to give a bearing surface of 
 ample area. This caution should be hardly necessary, 
 for whenever too great a load is brought upon a piece 
 of wood, it begins to yield slowly and there is ample 
 time to strengthen up weak points if they are seen in 
 time, and the most ordinary care will prevent serious 
 mishaps from this cause. 
 
8o 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 When the shaft is brought up level, twenty inches 
 in the clear, or a little more, between skids and car 
 floor, resting upon plank and blocking, one end can be 
 raised with the two jacks at points M and its opposite, 
 and the short skids X put in place, also the rollers and 
 the plank on top of the car floor, and the shaft lowered 
 to its place. Before stirring the other end the rollers 
 should be blocked from moving when they are sup- 
 posed to be standing still. Pieces of 2 X 4 stuff are 
 handy for this purpose. Cut them into 2-ft. lengths 
 
 FIG. 69 
 
 and pare them down on one edge as in Fig. 69. 
 These pieces will not slip. Both sides or at least two 
 rollers should be securely blocked and a chock under 
 every roller won't hurt. When one end is in proper 
 position the other can be treated in the same way and 
 the whole will appear as shown in Fig. 68. 
 
 Enough rollers should be used to make an easy 
 bearing surface for the whole. It is rarely that a roller 
 will actually crush, due to an overload alone. But 
 overloaded rollers will sink into the wood, top and 
 bottom, and the weight will move five times as hard 
 as it should. The more rollers the easier the thing 
 moves and the less danger of mishap. An 8-in. roller 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 81 
 
 every eighteen inches is none too close on that heavy 
 shaft. 
 
 When things are ready, as shown in Fig. 68, it will 
 be time to build a runway along the car, and some nice 
 square blocks and good plank are needed. Also some 
 good long sticks of i2-in. timber will help. A flat car 
 floor is about five feet above the tops of the rails and a 
 good, solid foundation of blocking must be laid even 
 with the top of car floor and as long as the skids, level 
 and square. This first section can, of course, have no 
 pitch, and somewhat more blocking will be needed 
 than would be necessary when taking a shaft off end- 
 ways. Eight-inch square blocks are most convenient 
 for such work. They are big enough to count up 
 pretty fast in the piling and are not too heavy to lift. 
 However, a big i6-in. chunk has virtues which are 
 prized by the fraternity, and even a pile of railroad 
 sleepers are valuable. The ground is the beginning 
 of the pile and it is easy to provide a good starting 
 surface. Ordinarily the ground in these places is 
 pretty soft and muddy. In such cases the best way, 
 where it can be done, is to dig down a little way, 
 enough to remove all the material that would be 
 powder if it were dry, till a firmer material is reached 
 (six inches is usually deep enough), and make a trench 
 wide enough for two sleepers side by side, square with 
 the track. Do this in four places and this start will be 
 solid enough to hold up any weight that can be hauled 
 on a railroad car. Long timbers are now needed. 
 The whole length of the shaft skids will be about 16 ft. 
 and timbers of this length are very convenient for the 
 
82 ERECTING WORK 
 
 bottom of the block pile. Two 12 X 12 or three 10 
 X 10 of this length will make a good solid start. 
 Lighter timbers may be used, but they should be sup- 
 ported often enough to make them good and stiff. 
 The sleepers in the trench should be level and bear all 
 over on their bottom faces, while the tops may come 
 up an inch or so above the ground. The long timbers 
 are laid directly upon these sleepers, stringing out 
 parallel with the car and as far from it as convenient, 
 say eighteen inches or two feet, to the nearer one. 
 Now two sections of 8-in. square blocks can be started, 
 so that the over all lengths will be a little more than the 
 whole length of the skids, and two piles cob housed up 
 to make a support for the top stringers. The stringers 
 can be supported in at least four places and the longest 
 span need not be over six feet, and only one-half the 
 weight of the shaft can possibly come on this section, 
 and even then the load will not come in the center. 
 So three 12 X I2's or even three 10 X io's will answer 
 for the top stringers. Lighter timbers may be used, 
 or even good sound plank laid one on top of another, 
 but in these cases more supports should be used and a 
 smaller crib built up between the other two. 
 
 The top planks lying across car body and blocking 
 should be supported as often as possible. 
 
 The blocking will appear now as shown in Figs. 70 
 and 71. 
 
 When this first section of blocking is finished as 
 shown in the figures, the shaft may be moved over and 
 the car cleared. It will take considerable force to 
 move it. A rope fall, or two or three chain falls, will 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 83 
 
 furnish enough power, but it is usually not convenient 
 to provide a fixed and rigid point for fastening the head 
 block. A freight car will answer, or a good stiff piece 
 of track, a frog for instance, but it will not pay to 
 
 FIG. 70 
 
 locate a dead man for such a short pull. The most 
 convenient tool for this work is a pair of stone jacks. 
 Any kind of a jack can be made to answer, a screw 
 jack, or even some of the patent ratchet jacks, but 
 
 FIG. 71 
 
 nothing fits as well as the stone jack, and the sto^e 
 jack will be a help all through the work. There is very 
 little friction in its moving under load, at least in com- 
 parison with the screw jack, for there is so little rub- 
 
84 ERECTING WORK 
 
 bing, nothing but a train of gears held by a ratchet 
 and pawl. The thing is as efficient as a compound 
 hand winch. When two 6-ton stone jacks are used, 
 one man at each end can make that shaft walk over 
 very handily. The jacks will hold very well at an 
 angle of 45 deg. ; the more nearly to a horizontal posi- 
 tion they are placed, the easier will the jack move. 
 The foot will not slip at that angle, but if as the shaft 
 moves onward the foot of the jack does not seem to 
 hold well, a piece of 2 X 4 spiked to the car floor will 
 answer, and it is easy to make two feet or more at each 
 setting of the jack. The force required to move such 
 a piece under these conditions is a small matter. It is 
 easy to put two men on a jack. The time is used up 
 in getting ready. If much space has been left between 
 the car body and the pile of blocking it is well to keep 
 the load off that point. It will be enough, however, 
 to have a roller ready just before the advancing side 
 gets across, and to place no roller in the middle 6f the 
 space when the skid ends reach that point. The rollers 
 already under need not be disturbed, for the load will 
 be very well distributed before much of it comes here. 
 The shaft over, preparation can be made for taking 
 away the rollers, plank and cross skids, and the new 
 row of rollers put under, ready for the straightaway 
 pull. The shaft is some 12 in. or more higher than it 
 need be and must be lowered carefully to its proper 
 bed. It will be found easiest to begin at the back 
 end, for that end need be lowered very little if at all. 
 The runway starts down an inclined plane, and if the 
 front end only is lowered, the sharp corner where the 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 85 
 
 track turns down will be avoided. There is consider- 
 able spring in the timber of skids and blocking, enough 
 to pass by a good deal of unevenness. But that slant- 
 ing track will start off at a pitch of one in five or so, 
 and if the shaft were pushed on over this there would 
 come an increasing load on the main skids as their 
 center approached the corner, till finally the whole 
 load would come at that point and the skids must 
 break. That trouble can be avoided, as already 
 pointed out. 
 
 The best place for the jacks is at point X (Fig. 68) 
 and its mate opposite; foot of jack on the plank, over 
 a good column of blocking, and the toes under the 
 cross skid at X. A short rise will clear the other two 
 planks, two cross skids and all the rollers at that end. 
 Now the aim will be to build an inclined run, the high 
 end eight inches below the bottom of the skids, just 
 the diameter of a roller, and the low end just to cross 
 the end G, Fig. 70. Only a short section can be built, 
 for the blocks at the front end will be in the way, but it 
 must be started now. The two 8 X 8's will answer 
 for the top stringers, and an 8 X 8 with a short piece 
 of plank will answer for block at the high end, and 
 thinner stuff for the other end. The slope is gradual 
 enough so that no trouble will be found in providing 
 proper support for rollers. The roller farthest back 
 should be placed at N, or at least not as far back as X, 
 for this roller is to' answer for a turning point in lower- 
 ing the other end; but beginning there, cross rollers 
 should be distributed about every 18 in. down the in- 
 cline and chocked there in place. 
 
86 ERECTING WORK 
 
 For lowering the front end place the jacks at point 
 K and its opposite on top of the 3-in. plank and under 
 the 8-in. cross piece. Two planks, two blocks and 
 all rollers will be made free. The cross plank at K 
 will remain, but need not be in the way. The block 
 K will have to come out later and a roller put in its 
 place, but it gives a good hold for the present for the 
 jacks. Now the incline should be finished to point G 
 of blocks and plank, and a roller placed and chocked 
 at Z, and more rollers strung out to cover the skids. 
 
 Lower on the jacks now and the shaft rests on a row 
 of chocked rollers and a square block at A'. It will 
 be time to stretch out a small fall now, one inch or one 
 and a quarter inches will answer, with a set of three 
 sheave blocks for holding back on the shaft as it goes 
 down the incline. It will not take a great force to 
 hold the shaft, not nearly as much as would start it, 
 of course, but hold backs are needed to avoid the outfit 
 going down hill too fast. If the incline is short, two 
 such falls should be used. Fasten the head blocks to a 
 string of freight cars, if they are convenient, or to a 
 track, though the falls should be long if they are to pull 
 on the track, for of course the tendency is to lift the 
 track. One frieght car would hold it down, however. 
 Two or three turns with the leading line about some 
 convenient fixed point, with one man to hold back, 
 will answer for this end of the work. 
 
 The runway shown in Fig. 72 should be built now 
 of the longest timber to be had, for 25 ft. is none too 
 long for this slope. If long timbers are not to be had, 
 shorter ones will answer, placed end to end. Timber 
 
UNLOADING A HEAVY SHAFT 
 
88 ERECTING WORK 
 
 laid directly upon the surface of the ground will answer 
 for foundation here, with cob housing as shown in the 
 cut. Support lo-in. timbers every five feet and 
 i2-in. every seven or eight at the very least. Ease 
 off the bottom hollow with tapering block and plank 
 as shown, Fig. 72. 
 
 The jacks should be placed under the skids now and 
 the block at K removed and a roller put in its place, 
 all chocks removed and the shaft is ready to go down 
 hill. Start it off with a push from behind with the 
 stone jacks, and she can be kept moving as fast as the 
 men on the falls holding back, slack off their hold. 
 The movement should be slow. But with rollers 
 placed square and true, the shaft will slide down to 
 the ground without trouble. 
 
IX 
 
 RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 
 
 HAULING a 65-ton shaft up an incline of one in six or 
 one in eight will call for considerable force, fully 
 double what is needed to make a move on level track, 
 for, of course, the lifting takes its full share of the 
 resistance. So the rope and rigging must be stronger, 
 multiplying the prime force by two or more. . The 
 whole moving force at the shaft may be 12 or 14 tons 
 for a long slope and force acting parallel with slope, 
 approaching 16 or more as the slope becomes steeper. 
 If this force runs higher than 1 6 tons, however, it will 
 usually be found more convenient to raise the pieces 
 straight up with jacks. 
 
 In lashing blocks for rope falls to a load such as this, 
 they should be applied at the point where the resistance 
 to onward motion comes as nearly as may be. The 
 line of resistance in moving up an incline is not through 
 the center of gravity of the piece, and is not in the line 
 of shaft at all. It is away down to the very bottom 
 surface of the skids, just on top of the rollers. Imag- 
 ine the effect of a force pulling along the line of the 
 shaft's center in Fig. 73. If the for.ce were great 
 enough the shaft would have to come, but what must 
 happen to the skids, even if they were on rollers? 
 
 89 
 
9 o 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 The whole moving force, whatever it might be, would 
 be trying to make the skids take the shape shown in 
 Fig. 74. There is nothing to make the skids themselves 
 move except the force which comes down through the 
 
 FIG. 73 
 
 pile of cross timber and the effect is the same as would 
 come were two forces precisely equal, and each enough 
 to move the weight applied as shown at A and B, 
 Fig. 74. It is clear that as these two forces approach 
 
 FIG. 74 
 
 each other, that is as A is applied lower down, the 
 twisting effect becomes less and less and when A gets 
 right down to the skids there is no twisting force 
 
RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 91 
 
 whatever. So lashing should be so rigged that the 
 pull will come down low, and the most convenient 
 point will be at CC, Fig. 73. 
 
 In order to lash the block securely to this load, at 
 least four turns of one and one-half inch rope should 
 be used, and more, even six will not be much out of 
 proportion. . This will give eight or more hauling parts 
 but they are not, of course, pulling in the direction of 
 motion and this whole strength is reduced in propor- 
 tion to the shortness of the hitch. Long hitches are 
 best, if there is none too much rope handy, and the 
 lashing is bound about something that spreads the 
 parts of the lashing out wide, as Fig. 73 will do. 
 
 A great many rope blocks will not take in four parts 
 of one and one-half inch rope in the hook. Most blocks 
 are defective in this respect. There is not room enough 
 in the hook or clevis to take in rope enough to equal 
 the strength of the fall itself. When this is the case, 
 it is best to have a link or clevis forged that will take in 
 plenty of lashing and big and stout enough to stand 
 hard usage. The rope block may be hooked into this 
 link. Also the hook itself should be looked at. These 
 hooks are frequently weak. A clevis is better and 
 stronger, though not always as convenient. On any 
 heavy pull the hook should be bound with marline to 
 stiffen it up, as shown in Fig. 75. This will help 
 enormously in preventing the hook from straightening 
 out, as shown in Fig. 76. It is a good plan to make a 
 clamp, as shown in Fig. 77, to bolt on, which may 
 make a hook almost as stout as a clevis. 
 
 A single rope fall for one and one-quarter inch rope, 
 
9 2 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 rove through three and two sheave blocks will not be 
 strong enough to haul such a shaft as this up the hill. 
 Two falls of this size will answer very well, however, 
 
 FIG. 75 
 
 FIG. 76 
 
 but the rope should be in prime condition for such a 
 pull. There is always one difficulty in getting two 
 falls to do the work of one, which must be guarded 
 against. If two falls each had an independent hitch 
 to a load and their hauling lines are led to separate 
 hand winches, it is easy to see that there is no way of 
 dividing the load equally, or even approximately 
 
 FIG. 77 
 
 equal between the two. So long as one was kept up 
 taut, with no slack and perhaps a little load, it would 
 appear just like the other which has the full load. 
 Some idea may be had, to be sure, by taking a line in 
 
RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 
 
 93 
 
 the hand, as to how much load it has, but this cannot 
 be depended upon for halving a load up. A fall should 
 always be tested in that way, however, when the 
 amount of the load is at all uncertain. But if the load 
 is so much that it seems best not to have much over 
 one-half of it on each of two falls, some way of equal- 
 ing things up must be devised. Fig. 78 shows an easy 
 
 TO HEAD BLOCK 
 AND WINCH 
 
 FIG. 78 
 
 way which is the principle of the evener on a two- 
 horse wagon. One fall must have about the same 
 load as the other if the cross timber is kept anywhere 
 near square. 
 
 If there are to be many heavy pulls, it is of course 
 more convenient to have one good heavy fall of 2-in. 
 rope, two inches in diameter. It is always best in 
 ordering rope to specify whether the measurement 
 refers to circumference or to diameter. Some riggers 
 and ship chandlers always speak of a size as referring 
 to circumference, while an engineer always thinks of 
 diameter. And again, rope is sometimes ordered by 
 
94 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 the circumference, three-inch, for instance, when a nice 
 light fall of inch-diameter rope is wanted, and the next 
 day a dray backs up with a hawser stout enough for a 
 man-of-war. In the articles relating to this subject a si^e 
 refers to the diameter. Six parts of 2-in. rope will be 
 good for 40 tons on work such as this. Inch and one- 
 quarter rope is spoken of here more often because it 
 is a convenient size to handle and is still stout enough 
 for heavy work. 
 
 If two falls are used on this load, there will be 
 needed a hauling force on the leading ropes of about 
 one ton, which may be furnished by the hand winches, 
 or by luff tackles. 
 
 When a load is being hauled up an incline, the 
 rollers must be followed closely with chocks to prevent 
 the piece running down in case of a break in the rigging 
 pulling ahead. Any one rope breaking of course lets 
 the whole load back. And the chocks should be good 
 big chunks. A load will go over an inch piece if it has 
 a trifling start; more than one roller should be chocked. 
 A man on each side with a chock in each hand taking 
 in both ends of two rollers which have a good load on 
 them will not be an over caution. 
 
 When a shaft has been hauled up in front of its 
 pillow-blocks, as shown in Fig. 73, the easy part of 
 the work is finished. There is less room to work in 
 then, and there will be much for the jacks to do. 
 The piece must be raised to the position shown in Fig. 
 79, high enough for everything to clear when the shaft 
 is rolled over. If the generator frame parts in a hori- 
 zontal plane, the shaft must go up till the bottom 
 
RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 
 
 95 
 
 circumference of the armature clears the top of the 
 lower half frame. This may require the whole shaft 
 to go up so that its center is nearly seven feet above 
 the tops of the foundation, or four feet higher than it 
 will be when in place. And it will have to be raised 
 some three feet higher than it is when lying on skids 
 and rollers. 
 
 FIG. 79 
 
 It is possible to raise the shaft up clear of the skids, 
 resting it upon blocking, and by taking the skids apart 
 they may be pulled out of the way. But it is usually 
 easier to let the shaft lie in the skids and raise the 
 whole thing together. This will save a good deal of 
 blocking nearly half of the whole amount needed in 
 raising, and is quite as easy. The two jacks should be 
 taken to one end of the skids, one on each side with 
 toes under the point where the cross blocking comes. 
 
96 ERECTING WORK 
 
 One end goes up at a time, and a cob house pile of 
 8-in. blocks four high will usually be enough, the skids 
 resting fair and level on such a pile at each end. 
 
 The next question will be in getting the shaft out 
 of its seat on the skids and onto a run reaching over 
 tops of pillow-block jaws, and coming up fair under 
 what is to be the shaft journals. Now, one jack must 
 be placed with its foot resting on a block laid across 
 the skids, and with its top coming up under a saddle 
 like that shown in Fig. 80, under the shaft. The jack 
 
 FIG. 80 
 
 may be placed either in front of the pile of cross block 
 or behind it. There is usually more room behind it. 
 Care must be used here for there is nothing but friction 
 to prevent the shaft from turning over and knocking 
 the jack out; so jacks must be placed precisely under 
 the center line of shaft on such lifts as these, and the 
 opening coming over the seat of the shaft must be 
 filled up closely with blocking. Inch pieces and 
 wedges must be shoved in wherever there is a chance. 
 A piece of 2-in. plank should be shaped up as shown 
 in Fig. 8 1 for each end. These will be used in lowering 
 the shaft too, and will be the start of the blocking 
 when raising out of the wooden seat. Two-inch pieces 
 piled one piece atop of another will fill the hollow in 
 the top block as the shaft goes up. One end, of course, 
 must go up at a time, and it is best to make short lifts 
 
RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 
 
 97 
 
 and keep the shaft pretty nearly level, for extreme 
 care must be used here. 
 The shaft must go high enough to allow 12-in. timbers 
 
 FIG. 8l 
 
 to pass under, as shown in Fig. 82, side by side, and 
 these timbers are to reach away across and rest on block- 
 ing on top of the pillow-block jaws. If 12-in. timber is 
 not to be had, 4-in. plank may be used, stiffened up as 
 
 FIG. 82 
 
 shown in Fig. 79, and two or three piles made. The 
 number and size of plank and blocking will depend upon 
 the length of span. The load is concentrated at a sin- 
 
98 ERECTING WORK 
 
 gle point here and allowance should be made accord- 
 ingly. If two i2-in. timbers are laid side by side at 
 each end, they should be supported about every three 
 feet, either with a block or with a good solid stud. 
 
 No great force will be required to start the shaft 
 rolling over and moving toward its bearings. It should 
 be started square, for it is not easy to slide one end 
 ahead to even things up. Five or six turns of inch 
 and one-half lashing may be wrapped about one of 
 the cranks and one end of the lashing hooked onto the 
 hauling tackle which has its leading line going to the 
 winding drum of the winch, as in Fig. 83. The other 
 
 FIG. 83 
 
 end of the lashing may hook into a smaller fall for 
 holding back and preventing things from going too 
 fast, also for making the lashing bite onto the crank 
 and not slip round. The small fall has its line take a 
 turn or two about a post, and is paid out by one man 
 who can check all rolling instantly. As the shaft 
 approaches the point squarely over its bearings, checks 
 should be ready to hold it in place ready for the jacks. 
 When the shaft is over and ready to be lowered to 
 place, it will do no harm to lead off lines from both 
 cranks, as shown in Fig. 83. These will prevent the 
 shaft from rolling while resting on a jack. The cradle, 
 
RIGGING FOR A HEAVY LIFT 
 
 99 
 
 Fig. 80, should be used for a support on top of the jacks 
 as the surface which should fit pretty well will tend 
 to keep the jack in place. 
 
 Considerable more than one-half the weight of the 
 shaft will come on the jacks now, for they are so near 
 the center of the shaft length. As a solid footing 
 must be provided, one side may be blocked up from 
 the generator foundation and will require only a small 
 
 FIG. 84 
 
 amount of blocking. Sometimes both sides may be 
 fixed in this way. If, however, the opening is too 
 deep, it is better to stand two 10 X 10 upright col- 
 umns braced to the foundation, with a good block 
 for a bolster on top. Then a cob house pile of block 
 may be built resting partly on the bolster and partly on 
 the top of the foundation, extending across the gap 
 for fly-wheel and generator as shown in Fig. 84. There 
 
100 ERECTING WORK 
 
 is just about room enough for a jack at each end, and 
 the blocking is all done from the frame itself. The 
 first aim is to get rid of the long timbers, the skids 
 and all loose blocking which is spread about now in 
 quantity and a trifling raise will free all this stuff. 
 Only one end rests it weight on a jack at a time, and 
 only a thin block can be removed at one time, for of 
 
 FIG. 85 
 
 course the crank checks will bind on the frame faces 
 if one end is much lower than the other. Some blocks 
 should be cut of length to fit nicely within the jaws of 
 the frame, as shown in Fig. 85. Before the shaft is 
 finally settled, while up about an inch above its seat, 
 all dirt should be carefully blown out. Then the final 
 lowering may come and the jaws filled with waste and 
 bagging to keep out everything that can cut a bearing. 
 
BUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 
 
 A MAN will not boast very much of his work on the 
 fly-wheel if it takes over a day to get all the section in 
 place with enough bolts driven in to hold the thing 
 together over night. Sometimes, it does take longer 
 than this if the rigging is not all ready, and particularly 
 if there is some fitting to be done. The man who does 
 get through in a day is entitled to a moderate boast. 
 His speed depends upon the rigging he gets up to handle 
 the sections; there are eight or more, and it pays to 
 get up something which can be handled quickly. 
 The sections will come in the door and be rolled up in 
 front of the shaft on their rollers lying flat upon the 
 floor in the position shown in Fig. 86. All this work 
 has been done with crow-bar and winch with perhaps 
 a little jacking. When the section is once up of? the 
 ground four or five inches it is not a bad piece to handle. 
 It must be lifted up, turned and shoved in between 
 the hub cheeks, and some stout lashing should be pro- 
 vided for this work. The first hitch will be shown in 
 Fig. 86. It is not intended to lift the section here, 
 but simply to stand it up ready for the lifting hold. 
 Not over one-half the whole weight need come on the 
 lashing here and the piece may be made to take the 
 
102 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 position shown in Fig. 87. A 10X10 gin pole with a 
 good head block furnishes the overhead rigging and 
 six parts of one and one-quarter inch rope will answer 
 
 O 
 
 FIG. 87 
 
 for the hoisting tackle. No lashing used as a sling on 
 these heavy sections should be lighter than one and 
 
IUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 103 
 
 one-half inches in diameter. A single sling of that 
 size has all it should do in lifting half of this weight. 
 
 The piece will stand by itself when in the position 
 shown in Fig. 87, and the hitch may be shifted for the 
 final lift. The easiest way of taking hold of a segment 
 is shown in Fig. 88, but stout rope will be required. 
 
 Two parts of 2-in. rope will lift this section, but the 
 rope must be new and in prime condition. It is safe 
 then to go as here shown. The arm will not hang 
 horizontally for the center of gravity of the piece is 
 near the point C so the line A B will be vertical. This 
 will do very well for swinging the weight on the gin 
 
104 ERECTING WORK 
 
 pole by letting in and out on the guy falls. The arm 
 may be lifted with a light fall or a chain tackle to bring 
 it up horizontal, approximately, and the section is 
 ready to enter. It should of course be seen to that 
 the piece goes up fairly vertical and does not cant 
 over very much. A little twist can be taken out by 
 shoving a bar into one of the bolt holes, but not much 
 force should be required here. The hitch itself should 
 be made central. The section is swung up ready to 
 enter by letting off on the back guy. It should enter 
 a little way of its own accord. It may not, and prob- 
 ably will not, slide away down to its place by itself, 
 but it should enter without forcing. There is no need 
 of the fit being very tight. It is not a bad plan to 
 caliper both arms and space before trying to enter 
 at all; but it is not always worth while. 
 
 Some judgment must be used in pounding the arm 
 home. The tackle holding the weight should be swung 
 forward a little so that its tendency is to help the 
 piece in. Then two men with a block weighing 1 50 Ibs. 
 swinging it as a ram, ought to be able to send the piece 
 in by striking at D. It is easy to get up more force 
 than this with heavier timber and more men, or even 
 to rig up a jack. But if the arm starts in tight it will 
 be a very difficult matter to force it out again. It is 
 better to file the faces of the arm and ease things up a 
 little. The surface is a large one to file over, and must 
 be kept true; but there is usually not much to come 
 off for the arms have been in there once, and if they 
 enter hard the second time it is because the cheeks 
 may be a trifle closer together this time. If the arm 
 
BUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 105 
 
 binds a little, it is sometimes possible to make it slide 
 home by raising and lowering a little on the main 
 tackle, enough to give it a new position. As soon as 
 one of the holes comes in place the first bolt must be 
 put in, and the other two follow by turning on that 
 one as a center. The bolts themselves will fit tight, 
 but may be driven in with blows from a sledge. But 
 in driving the bolt should be watched, for if one binds 
 it is not easily gotten out. A sledge alone will not 
 start it, and it is frequently almost impossible to apply 
 a jack to any purpose. Cases have been known where a 
 tight bolt part way in had to be drilled out with a 
 ratchet. Jobs of that kind take days and tie up all 
 other work on the wheel in the bargain. The bolts 
 and holes both may caliper all right, but sometimes 
 the hole is not perfectly straight. The progress of 
 the bolt must be noted as it is driven in. It is possible 
 to tell with almost certainty whether the bolt is grow- 
 ing tighter and tighter as it advances. 
 
 When one section is in place and all three bolts are 
 in their holes with nuts slack, it is possible to save 
 some time by choosing the best section to put in next. 
 So far as the amount of work in putting in the sections 
 themselves is concerned, it makes no difference. The 
 difference comes in in the number of times a wheel 
 must be turned over and the amount of force necessary 
 to do it. The most natural way is to take one section 
 after another, in order, leaving only one section as a 
 fill-in to complete at the last. This method places 
 less stress than any other does on hub bolts and hub 
 casting. The great objection is that the whole weight 
 
106 ERECTING WORK 
 
 practically of three sections will have to be lifted at 
 one time by the rigging in turning the wheel. This 
 will be apparent from Fig. 90, which shows a wheel 
 with eight arms. The section marked i is put in and 
 lowered on to a block or a timber across the front face 
 of the foundation. No. 2 is put in, and then both 
 2 and 3 have to be raised before the block can be 
 taken out to let those sections down and out of the 
 way. This is again true of i, 2 and 3, before No. 4 
 can go in, and this same heavy lift is again encountered 
 
 FIG. 
 
 by the fall on the other side of the wheel when the sixth 
 section is put in. Each section does help to hold its 
 neighbor, however, for they may be clamped together 
 with a temporary bolt, as shown at the right of Fig. 
 89, and the load is distributed as well as it can be. 
 The links are not put in till all sections are in place, 
 but it is plain that the weight of No. 3 is partly borne 
 by 2 and i, thus relieving the shearing load on its bolts. 
 In lifting these three sections or two and a half, per- 
 haps, for the whole weight of No. i is not lifted, though 
 
BUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 
 
 107 
 
 the friction of the shaft about makes this up, it is clear 
 that the hitch should not be made on the arm or the 
 rim of No. 3. No. i is the arm to pull on. As an 
 offset against these heavy lifts come the short dis- 
 tances of movement and the lifts are short. For 
 this method two rigs are needed, one on each side of 
 the wheel, that is, at opposite ends of a horizontal 
 diameter and each capable of lifting three sections. 
 
 It is possible to decrease this load if the arms are 
 not too heavy in proportion to the size of the bolts, 
 and can safely be hung out straight and horizontal 
 from the hub, bringing of course a twisting load which 
 must be resisted by the shearing resistance of the three 
 bolts and their crushing strength. On many wheels 
 the bolts are ample for this, and if the rim is of the 
 
io8 ERECTING WORK 
 
 steel-plate rim style, the bolts are more than adequate. 
 The method is shown in Fig. 90. The principle is to 
 let the heavy part of the wheel go down and stay 
 there. The rigging must be stout enough to lift one 
 section and at the same time turn the wheel, and one 
 set of rigging must be used on each side of the wheel 
 as before. The sections are all put in in the position 
 marked i and the first section takes the position as 
 shown in the figures on the outer circumference in the 
 figure. Also the figure shows the position of the 
 sections when any number of them are in. For in- 
 stance, when there are four sections in they take the 
 position marked A 4 and move to position A 5 when 
 number 5 has gone in. This will be more apparent in 
 Fig. 91. 
 
 The first piece is put in as shown in A and can be 
 lowered to the bottom position shown in B. Its own 
 weight takes it there and the fall in front of the wheel 
 is slowly lowered off till the rotation stops of its own 
 accord in the best place for sliding in section No. 2 
 as shown in B. Now the first fall is slaked again and 
 the wheel stops again in the best position for the third 
 section, leaving a gap precisely at the bottom as shown 
 at C. The fall is again slacked off, but this time the 
 wheel does not roll far enough to allow the fourth sec- 
 tion to enter, and it must be helped out by the fall back 
 of the wheel, though the latter will not have to lift as 
 much as a whole section. Now in D there are two 
 sections on one diameter which balance each other, 
 and as the front fall is let off the other two sections 
 govern the position the wheel will assume. It will not 
 
BUILDING UP A FLY-WHEEL 109 
 
no ERECTING WORK 
 
 roll quite far enough for the fifth piece, and a little 
 load will have to be taken by the back fall, when the 
 section will make the wheel appear as shown at E. 
 In order to get in place for No. 6 the back fall now will 
 have to lift a whole section, for in the position shown 
 at F the wheel is in balance, and before No. 6 throws 
 in its weight, the section directly opposite must be 
 held by the back fall. A full section will rest in the 
 back fall when No. 7 is put in as shown at G, but as 
 soon as No. 7 is in the wheel is again in balance. The 
 back fall now rolls the wheel on lifting one full section 
 and the last piece is slid in place. 
 
XI 
 
 THE ERECTION OF HIGH-SPEED CENTER- 
 CRANK ENGINES 1 
 
 THE high-speed center-crank engine, with which 
 this article deals, is seldom sold in sizes greater than 
 200 horse-power. It is very well standardized as to 
 design and the cost of even the best makes is com- 
 paratively small, so that the cost of erection, when 
 this is done by an erector from the maker's shop, 
 forms a large percentage of the total cost of the engine 
 ready to run. The railroad fare and living expenses 
 of the shopman are usually more than the actual 
 expenses of erection, particularly when but one engine 
 is installed. 
 
 To avoid this unnecessary expense it is quite com- 
 mon for the purchaser's engineer to erect the engine 
 and it is the purpose of this article to give clear and 
 concise directions for so doing. The method given 
 is that used by most professional erectors. It should 
 be borne in mind that the various makes differ some- 
 what as to details, but the erection as a whole is prac- 
 tically the same for all makes. 
 
 We will suppose that the foundation has been built 
 with due regard to alinement with the machine to be 
 
 1 Contributed to Power by H. V. Hunt and C. G. Robbins. 
 
 Ill 
 
112 ERECTING WORK 
 
 driven, if the engine is belted, or, if direct-coupled, 
 with the building or other predetermined point; that 
 its top presents an even surface, and that the anchor 
 bolts have sufficie-nt clearance around them to allow 
 for any small inaccuracy in setting them. Also that 
 the engine has been brought from the railroad and 
 placed on the engine-room floor. This is usually a 
 truckman's job and is contracted for a lump sum. 
 Most engines of this type are provided with a subbase 
 or foundation-box under the frame, high enough to 
 allow the wheels to clear the floor by a few inches. 
 Whatever leveling or alining is to be done to set the 
 engine must be done to this box, for when it is set the 
 whole engine is set. 
 
 The foundation-box will be left on blocks or rollers 
 and can be moved directly over its place on the founda- 
 tion, so that the anchor bolts line up fairly well with 
 their respective holes, blocking being used so that the 
 bottom of the box is about i in. above the ends of the 
 bolts. It is seldom that the bolts are so set that they 
 enter the holes without some little difficulty. The 
 easiest way to place the box is to remove some of the 
 blocking until the box rests on the ends of the bolts, 
 leaving the remainder of the blocking about -in. below 
 the bolt tops. 
 
 Then when the holes are pushed or driven over they 
 will not spring back, and when the bolts are fair with 
 the holes the box drops down over them to the block- 
 ing J-in. below. At first sight it appears that the 
 threads would be injured, but it seldom happens that 
 they are marred in the least. After the box has been 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 113 
 
 lowered until it rests upon 2-in. planks, the leveling 
 bolts or wedges can be put in and the planks removed. 
 The foundation-box can now be leveled and alined. 
 
 Locate on the machined top flange of the box the 
 center line of the engine and the center line of shaft, 
 making the marks good and sharp with a scribe or 
 penknife, as shown in Fig. 92. 
 
 o 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 o* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o| 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 CEN. LINE ENGINE 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' z 
 
 
 
 
 v 
 
 X 
 
 
 oj 
 
 p 
 
 
 \ U 
 
 
 oj 
 
 I ii i J 
 
 jrr 
 
 FOUNDATION BOX X "J 
 
 rm i 
 
 "H 
 
 f ! ! ! ! i ! ! "^ 
 
 FIG. 92 
 
 If the engine is to be belted, find the distance E, 
 Fig. 93, from the center line of the engine to the center 
 line of the driving-wheel. Knowing the relation that 
 this line and the shaft center line must bear to the 
 driven machine, a convenient and accurate method of 
 alinement must be found. That in Fig. 93 is very 
 good. It represents the case of alining to a shaft. 
 Attach a fine line to a convenient point A on the shaft, 
 
II 4 ERECTING WORK 
 
 extending the line to any convenient point a beyond 
 the engine. Square the line with the shaft by the well- 
 known triangle of 6, 8 and 10; that is, measure out 
 from A 6 ft. on the shaft to point C, 8 ft. on the line to 
 point B, and move the end a of the line until the dis- 
 tance B C measures exactly 10 ft. The line is then 
 square with the shaft. 
 
 FIG. 93 
 
 Measure the distance D from the line to the center of 
 the driven pulley and move the foundation-box over 
 until the distance F at each end is exactly equal to the 
 sum of the two measurements D and E. The engine 
 is then in line with the driven pulley and square with 
 the shaft; the belt-center distance G is not important, 
 any inaccuracy being taken up by the belt. If the 
 engine is direct-connected to a pump or generator the 
 foundation-box can be set accurately enough for all 
 practical purposes by direct measurements from the 
 building or other given point to either of the center 
 lines on the box. 
 
 For leveling the box, use a level which is accurate 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 115 
 
 and fairly sensitive, an iron body level being preferable. 
 Place the level parallel with each center line, thus 
 leveling both ways, and make the necessary adjust- 
 ments with the wedges or adjusting screws under the 
 box. 
 
 After the box is set, leveled and alined it is always 
 advisable to check up all the measurements, as any 
 errors are more easily corrected now than later. 
 
 If these measurements are all correct, the box is 
 ready to be grouted. For this use a mixture of i part 
 Portland cement and i part sand, moistened enough 
 to pack well; or the mixture may be made thin enough, 
 by the addition of water, to be poured. If it is desired 
 to pour the grouting, make a dam of clay around the 
 outside of the box, about i in. outside of the lower 
 flange, and pour the grout from the inside of the box 
 until it completely fills the space between the founda- 
 tion and the flange of the box. After this is set, it is 
 a good plan to fill the box to a depth of about 6 in. 
 with a mixture of i part cement, 2 parts sand and 3 
 parts broken stone. This prevents the drum-like noise 
 sometimes produced by the large hollow box and in 
 addition securely locks the engine in place. This is 
 especially desirable where the engine is belted, pre- 
 venting any twisting from the pull of the belt. After 
 making sure that the oil catcher and oil hole are clean 
 the box is ready for the engine frame. The frame can 
 be brought alongside the box and blocked up, raising 
 one end at a time, until it is a little higher than the top 
 of the box. An old rail or a 6x6 in. iron-shod timber, 
 well oiled, should now be placed under each end of the 
 
n6 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 frame; one end resting on the foundation-box, the other 
 on the blocking under the frame, as in Fig. 94. The 
 frame can then be easily slid sidewise until it is directly 
 over the box. After making sure that the surfaces are 
 clean and that there are no burrs or rough places on 
 either box or frame, it can be lowered until it rests on 
 the top of the box. 
 
 FIG. 94 
 
 Usually the frame is held to the box by bolts tapped 
 into the latter. Alinement with the box is provided 
 for in the shop either by making two diagonally opposite 
 bolts a reamed fit, or by dowel-pins fitting tightly 
 into holes in the box and frame. Some makers use 
 anchor bolts extending up through the box and frame 
 thus doing away .with the tap bolts between frame 
 and box; in such cases dowel-pins are used to line the 
 frame to the box. In any case the dowel-pins or 
 reamed bolts should be securely in place before the 
 other bolts are tightened. 
 
 It will be found safer and easier to hoist the shaft 
 and cylinder from overhead if means can be found to 
 suspend chain blocks or rope tackle at the proper 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 
 
 117 
 
 points. If there are no conveniences in the building 
 a good gallows frame rig can be made as in Fig. 95. 
 For ordinary work, the uprights and cross-beam may 
 be made of 6x6-in. timbers and the bottom pieces of 
 
 FIG. 95 
 
 3-in. plank. Chain blocks of sufficient capacity for 
 the weight are hung from the center of the cross-piece, 
 and i^-in. pipe rollers will allow the necessary move- 
 ment. 
 
 For belted engines, the gallows frame should be wide 
 
n8 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 enough to clear the shaft; but in direct-connected 
 engines, where the shaft is four or five feet longer, it is 
 not necessary to make it so wide. 
 
 Figure 96 shows the frame in use in placing a shaft. 
 
 
 
 
 FRAME 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FOUNDATION 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 J 
 
 BOX 
 
 lr 
 
 
 ^_ 
 
 FIG. 96 
 
 The shaft is lifted by a rope sling around the crank-pin, 
 raised until it is high enough to clear the bearings, and 
 the gallows frame is rolled back until the shaft is over 
 the bearings, when it is lowered into place. Before 
 lifting any of the weight of the shaft, a block or pin 
 must be placed between the disks to prevent the over- 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 119 
 
 hanging weight of the shaft from springing the disks 
 together. For this purpose a i^-in. bolt with a nut, 
 just long enough to go between the disks, may be used. 
 The bolt is slipped into place and the nut backed off 
 just enough to take the strain and to wedge the bolt 
 tightly in place. This bolt is shown in Fig. 96. A 
 block of wood or a piece of iron or pipe wedged tightly 
 between the disks will of course answer the same pur- 
 pose. 
 Another way to put in the shaft is shown by Fig. 97. 
 
 FIG. 97 
 
 Here a 6x6-in. or an 8x8-in. timber is put under each 
 end of the shaft and the shaft is securely held in place 
 on these timbers by "chocks" or stops. Each end of 
 the timbers is then alternately raised by levers or 
 jacks, and followed up by blocking until the shaft is 
 at the proper hight, as shown. The chocks can then 
 be removed, the shaft rolled to a point directly over 
 the bearings, and, by removing the blocking, lowered 
 into place. This is a very convenient method for 
 placing the long armature shaft of a direct-connected 
 engine. 
 
120 ERECTING WORK 
 
 After the shaft is lowered into place the quarter- 
 boxes, if there are any, should be put into place and 
 adjusted to bear against the shaft. The exposed part 
 of the shaft should then be coated with a mixture of 
 lamp-black and oil, and the shaft be rolled around. 
 This blacking will be rubbed off the shaft on the bear- 
 ings at the high points. The shaft should be lifted, the 
 quarter-boxes removed, and the bearings scraped to a 
 perfect fit. The caps and quarter-boxes should be 
 fitted and scraped in the same manner, and thin liners 
 should be used under the caps to prevent pinching or 
 binding the shaft. 
 
 The engine is now ready for the cylinder. This may 
 be put on with the gallows frame, as shown in Fig. 98. 
 The cylinder is moved to a position on the floor in line 
 with the engine center, lifted by the chain blocks to 
 the proper level and the frame rolled forward until the 
 cylinder is in place. To insure the easy entrance of 
 the bolts connecting the cylinder and frame it is 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 
 
 121 
 
 absolutely necessary to have the cylinder perfectly 
 level when lifting it, and to see that the steam-chest 
 side is properly placed. 
 
 Unless the lagging is very heavy, it is best to remove 
 it before putting on the rope lashing by which it is 
 lifted. 
 
 If the engine is a tandem compound one, put on 
 first that cylinder which is next the frame, place the 
 piston for that cylinder on the rod and put it into the 
 
 FIG. 99 
 
 cylinder. .Next put on the clyinder head, distance 
 pieces, etc., lifting them all with the blocks on the 
 frame. The other cylinder can then be lifted and 
 placed as before by the gallows frame. The support 
 can then be placed under the cylinder, and then (and 
 not until then) should the chain blocks be released. 
 
 The other piston should then be put on the rod, the 
 cross-head put into place and the rod screwed roughly 
 into the head. The final adjustment for equal clear- 
 ance is not made until the connecting-rod is in place. 
 
 Figure 99 shows a method of raising the cylinder 
 by blocking. The cylinder is firmly lashed to a 6 X 6-in. 
 or an 8 X 8 in. timber, the ends of which are alter- 
 
122 ERECTING WORK 
 
 nately raised by screw-jacks and followed by blocking 
 until the proper hight is reached. Then by sliding 
 the timber along the blocks toward the frame the 
 bolts or studs are entered and the cylinder made fast. 
 
 There is usually a valve guide or rocker arm to trans- 
 mit the motion from the eccentric-rod to the valve- 
 stem; this can now be put into place. 
 
 The governor wheel should now be put on the shaft 
 and pushed on until the eccentric-rod when connected 
 to the eccentric-strap will line up with the pin on the 
 valve-guide or rocker arm. The eccentric carrier and 
 
 TIMBER TO MCKAOAIIWr 
 
 FIG. 100 
 
 the governor are usually carried on the wheel inde- 
 pendently of the shaft and for this reason the wheels 
 were not put on as soon as the shaft was finished - 
 that is, the wheel could not be put on until the eccen- 
 tric-rod pin, which governs the wheel's location, was 
 in place. To exactly locate the governor wheel on 
 the shaft some makers put a set-screw in the wheel 
 hub and a corresponding pocket in the shaft. When 
 the screw will just enter the pocket, the wheel has been 
 pushed on to the proper point. In lieu of any other 
 guide the method first described, i.e., having the 
 eccentric-rod line up with its pin, is sure. 
 
 Figures 100, 101, 102 and 103 show the method of 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 
 
 123 
 
 raising the wheels and pressing them on the shaft. 
 To raise the wheel to the proper hight, place a \\ or 
 2-in. plank on the floor so that when the wheel is rolled 
 up on the plank it will just clear the end of the bear- 
 ing. Roll the wheel to one end of the first plank, 
 place another plank on top of the first and roll the 
 wheel back and up on to this second plank. Repeat 
 the operation until the wheel is at the right hight to 
 be worked over and entered on the shaft. It will 
 usually be found that the wheel will go on the shaft 
 freely for a few inches, but must be pressed on for the 
 remainder of its bearing. 
 
 [ 
 
 GEEf-f 
 
 
 
 1*ROO 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 o-< 
 
 ^'BOLTS 
 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 ^SEPARATOR 
 
 
 2 BARS ABOUT 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ]t e'x i" 
 
 
 5 X 1 X, 
 
 g 
 
 [N 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 FIG. 1 01 
 
 For this purpose a pair of clamps like those in Fig. 
 101 are cheap and convenient and will not subject 
 any of the engine parts to undue stresses. The cross- 
 pieces of this clamp consist each of two pieces of flat 
 iron f or i in. thick and about i in. less in width than 
 the space between the crank disks. Each pair should 
 be bolted together with three f-in. bolts with i|-in. 
 spreaders or separators, which may be wood, pieces of 
 pipe or old nuts. 
 
 The rods should be i in. in diameter with two nuts, 
 
124 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 and should have about ij-in. thread on one end and 
 12-in. on the other. 
 The method of operation is shown in Figs. 102 and 
 
 N 
 
 N 
 
 sr 
 
 FIG. 102 
 
 103. Put one of the cross-pieces between the disks, 
 using a plate P to keep the strain off the disk and 
 counterbalance, and directly on the end of the shaft. 
 Place the other clamp outside of the wheel, resting it 
 
 ELEVATION 
 FIG. 103 
 
 on two hardwood blocks bearing against the face of 
 the hub. After placing the bolts in position, the 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 125 
 
 wheel can be pressed on by screwing up the nuts N N. 
 In doing this be careful to have the rods the same dis- 
 tance from the shaft-center, as at d d, Fig. 102, and to 
 screw the two nuts N N an equal amount as nearly 
 as possible. This avoids cramping the wheel or pull- 
 ing it on out of line. This method is superior to jack- 
 ing the wheel on from the ouside, as it puts the stress 
 entirely on the straight piece of shaft between the 
 disk and the wheel on the one side of the engine, and 
 cannot spring the crank or cause other damages. 
 
 FIG. 104 
 
 Where the wheel hub is split, as in Fig. 104, a wedge 
 can be driven in the split, opening it so that the wheel 
 will go on easily. In such cases the pinch bolts should 
 be heated quite warm just before being put in and 
 tightened up; the contraction will insure them against 
 working loose after a period of use. 
 
 The keyways in wheel and shaft should be made to 
 
126 ERECTING WORK 
 
 coincide or match after the wheel is on a few inches 
 and before the clamp is put on. To do this put a 
 block of wood in the crank-pit so that the shaft cannot 
 complete a revolution. Roll the engine until the 
 crank is away from the block, then roll it back until 
 the crank-pin strikes the block. This shock will shift 
 the wheel a little on the shaft and can be repeated 
 until the keyways are in line. In driving the keys 
 be sure that they do not bind top and bottom. 
 
 Next the connecting-rod should be put in. First 
 connect the rod to the crank-pin, leaving the other 
 end free, first coating the pin with lampblack and oil. 
 Key the rod up tight and swing it to see if the other 
 end falls in the center of the cross-head pin. If it 
 does not, scrape the boxes at one side until it does, 
 being careful to leave a good full bearing in the boxes. 
 Repeat this operation by connecting the rod to the 
 cross-head pin and making it come central on the 
 crank-pin. This will avoid "side lash" and it is a 
 good plan to try it with the crank-pin at both ends 
 of the stroke. 
 
 If there is any doubt about the shaft being square 
 with the center line of the engine, which would affect 
 the alinement of the rod, it may be tested before the 
 wheels are on, as shown in Fig. 105. All that is neces- 
 sary is to place a true straight-edge across the planed 
 cylinder face and measure from it to the surface of the 
 shaft at each side of the engine. These distances a a 
 should be equal if both ends of the shaft are of the 
 same diameter. The crank center should next be 
 trammed. Fig. 106 shows how to do this. Turn the 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 
 
 127 
 
 engine forward until the crank is 15 or 20 deg. from 
 the center. Make a sharp scribe mark A on guide and 
 cross-head. Make a punch mark B on the engine 
 frame near the crank disk, and from this with a bent 
 
 c 
 
 FIG. 105 
 
 tram make a mark C on the disk face. Turn the 
 engine over until marks A and on the guide and cross- 
 head again coincide. With the same tram and from 
 the punch mark B make a second mark D on the disk. 
 
 PIG. 1 06 
 
 Divide the distance C D with a pair of dividers and put 
 a punch mark E exactly half-way . between them. 
 Turn the engine until the tram just fits the punch 
 marks B and E; the engine is then on the center. 
 
128 ERECTING WORK 
 
 Note that all lost motion, if there is any, must be taken 
 up in the same direction in all operations. 
 
 Now the engine should be put on the center and the 
 piston-rod screwed into or out of the cross-head until 
 the piston is traveling central in the cylinder, i.e., until 
 the clearance is equal at both ends. The rod can be 
 screwed or unscrewed with a long wrench or by taking 
 a number of turns of rope around the rod, holding the 
 free end of the rope and unwinding it with the gallows 
 frame and blocks. This will frequently start a tight 
 rod. 
 
 The cross-head jam nut should now be made tight 
 and the cylinder head put on. The valves can be put 
 in and set and the governor adjusted. The details of 
 these vary so widely as to prevent any instructions 
 as to their setting. These are always furnished in the 
 minutest detail by the builders. 
 
 The throttle, oil cups, lubricators and drain piping 
 may now be placed, the engine carefully blown out to 
 free it from dirt, etc., and it is ready for steam. 
 
 We cannot too strongly impress upon our readers 
 the necessity for thoroughly cleaning and examining 
 each part before erecting it, both to see that it has 
 sustained no damage nor become filled with dirt dur- 
 ing transportation and to save labor in rehandling 
 the parts. Before closing up any part, such as cylin- 
 ders, steam-chest, crank-pit, oil catcher, etc., it is well 
 to make a final examination to see that no loose nuts, 
 bolts, sand, gravel, chippings, etc., remain inside to 
 give trouble sooner or later. 
 
 Another general point it is well to observe is that 
 
HIGH-SPEED CENTER-CRANK ENGINES 129 
 
 in tightening a number of bolts which hold the same 
 part in place, such as cylinder-head bolts, bearing 
 bolts, etc., an equal strain should be taken on each 
 bolt, thus always keeping the part held by the bolts 
 equally tight over its bearing. 
 
XII 
 
 SOME OF THE LIGHTER WORK IN 
 ERECTING 
 
 THE only hard part of putting the links into a fly- 
 wheel is in finding some way to heat the links. The 
 link should be heated uniformly throughout its length, 
 and it is almost impossible to do this in any hand 
 forge. The most convenient place is the furnace under 
 one of the plant's boilers, and if the fire can be spared 
 it is the cheapest place. A link will weigh something 
 over 100 Ibs., and is neither heavy nor hard to handle 
 
 FIG. 107 
 
 when cold. Two men can shove it into a furnace door 
 and place it anywhere in the fire with ease. It may 
 be half an hour in heating up to a dull red. It should 
 not be necessary to heat it hotter than this. The rake 
 will haul it out on to the floor and an eye-bolt screwed 
 into each end will make handling easy. Two men 
 with a cart stake shoved through the eye-bolts Fig. 107 
 will carry a link anywhere. 
 
 It will be necessary to rig up a fall swung from the 
 130 
 
SOME OF THE LIGHTER WORK IN ERECTING 131 
 
 fly-wheel rim to lift the link into place. It is not heavy 
 but men cannot hold the thing while it is being shoved 
 in, for it throws out a lot of heat. The fall hooks 
 right into the top eye-bolt and a few light blows drive 
 the thing home. Usually about a sixteenth of an inch 
 is allowed for the shrink; that is, the link is finished 
 up T V-in. short. But whatever this allowance is, it 
 should not be so much that the link will not go in 
 readily when at a dull red heat. If the links are 
 finished up too short some stock should be machined 
 off. It is better to let it be done by machine, too, for 
 the biting surface should be kept square and have a 
 good bearing. If this T Vin. looks small let it be con- 
 sidered how much of a twist would have to be given a 
 wrench to make T Vin. in the length of a bolt 4 in. in 
 diameter and 2 ft. long when the parts were already 
 iron and iron. Too much allowance will require too 
 hot a link and if the link is hot enough it will stretch 
 permanently without biting much of anything. 
 
 When the link is once in, it will do no harm to cool 
 it off with water till it bites and holds itself in place. 
 
 Links may be, and have been, heated in a wood fire, 
 built on the open ground. The heat is certainly a 
 good one, for the fire should be large; but the process 
 is a very slow one. It will take at least one man's 
 time to collect wood to burn, and the fire is torn down 
 every time a link is taken out. Still this method is 
 always possible, and that is a virtue, for there is not 
 much in the heating line that cannot be done with a 
 large open wood fire. A little time may be gained by 
 rigging up an open grate with bars or rods of iron for 
 
132 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 grate-bars, resting on a few bricks laid so as to catch 
 the wind for draft and more brick laid on top to form 
 a short flue 18 in. long, perhaps, something as shown 
 in Fig. 1 08. Also a sheet of iron may well be laid over 
 
 J L 
 
 J L 
 
 I . I 
 
 1,11,1 
 
 I . 
 
 J L 
 
 J L 
 
 I . I 
 
 J L 
 
 I . I 
 
 I , I 
 
 I . I ; i . i 
 
 FIG. I 08 
 
 the top of the link, boring a hole for the escape of 
 smoke. This holds the heat in better and tends to 
 heat both sides at once. But the outfit is not a very 
 good one at best. 
 
 In shrinking in links it is common to follow around 
 on one side for a way before doing anything on the 
 other. This method, or any other method, is all right 
 provided it does not pull things together in one place 
 and open them up in another, due to some spots 
 yielding more readily than do others. This must be 
 watched and evened up by working where the open- 
 ings tend to come. There is rarely any trouble found 
 
SOME OF THE LIGHTER WORK IN ERECTING 133 
 
 in the fit of the wheel itself, for the wheel has been 
 together once before for the turning, but the links 
 themselves, of course, have never been in the sockets. 
 
 The hub bolts will have to be made good and tight, 
 and this is best done with a short stout wrench and a 
 sledge-hammer. They fit tight in the holes when cold 
 and evidently cannot be put in hot. All these nuts 
 should be watched after the engine has carried its first 
 loads, and it is a good plan to go over them all again 
 and give them an extra pinch, after the first runs. If 
 a bolt works loose, there is usually some cause for it, 
 and the very fact that it wants to work loose is a reason 
 for wanting to keep it tight. The best method of mak- 
 ing rules for the care of a wheel is to watch each wheel 
 itself and prescribe remedies for the cases as they 
 appear, measuring all the facts carefully. 
 
 The cross-head of an engine having bored guides will 
 require a little patience in being gotten into its place, 
 twisted up and rested on its wedges. It is not heavy, 
 but it has to go where little can be arranged to lift it. 
 It must go in on its side, and after it has gotten seem- 
 ingly beyond control it must be stood upright and the 
 wedges put in. The guides are bored out concentric 
 with the engine's center line, and, so far as the bore 
 is concerned, it would be possible to make the cross- 
 head revolve when the shoes are in, and so it is possible 
 to put a cross-head in and roll it up in place in the guide 
 while the shoes are in. But in order to do this the 
 piece must be in line with the engine, for the new 
 shoes, even when slacked away off, do not allow much 
 play; and it is a mean thing to line up and hold in line 
 
134 
 
 ERECTING WORK 
 
 while it is being turned on nothing. It is easier to 
 leave off both shoes and enter them when the cross- 
 head is standing in place. 
 
 The pistons are best put on to their rods before either 
 piston or rod are put into the cylinder. Bull-rings and 
 packing-rings may well be taken off and the piston head 
 with its rod swung from the gin pole, as shown in 
 Fig. 109. It can be made to balance by a man at the 
 
 FIG. 109 
 
 end of the rod and nicely steered through the throat 
 of the stuffing-box. The stuffing-box gland must not 
 be forgotten, and the nut on the rod back of the cross- 
 head should be screwed away on out of the way. A 
 good, stiff piece of plank should be cut off just the 
 length to rest across the cylinder barrel and keep the 
 piston up central with the cylinder bore, as shown in 
 Fig. 1 10. The thread will enter easily if the parts are 
 in line and the piston screwed home by a wrench on the 
 nut back of the piston, and the clearance divided up, 
 after which both large nuts may be set up hard. The 
 striking points should be marked on the slides for 
 
SOME OF THE LIGHTER WORK IN ERECTING 135 
 
 future reference. All the running gear and all the valve- 
 gear is lifted easily and put in place by the gin pole, 
 and the fly-wheel is turned in the direction it is to run 
 
 FIG. I 10 
 
 for the valve setting by the same means. Journals^ 
 and boxes should be left slack at first, their possible 
 closeness being determined by the fits and by the care 
 with which the erectors line the machine up. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Anchorages on a roadway 32 
 
 Barrel, slinging a 25 
 
 Basket hitch 18 
 
 Bitting-rolling hitch 18 
 
 Bolts, foundation 9, 14 
 
 hub, tightening 133 
 
 tightening 1 29 
 
 Bottle hitch 23 
 
 Bowlines 22 
 
 Brick foundations 15 
 
 Building up a fly-wheel 101 
 
 Capstan head used in hauling machinery 27 
 
 Center line of cylinder n 
 
 line of engine 113 
 
 line of shaft n, 113 
 
 lines 16 
 
 Chocks 94, 1 19 
 
 Clamps 123 
 
 Clevis 91 
 
 Cob house blocking 37, 79 
 
 Concrete foundations i, 7 
 
 Connecting-rod, putting in 1 26 
 
 Crank center, tramming 126 
 
 -shaft, raising a 36 
 
 -shaft, unloading 75 
 
 Cross-head, placing 133 
 
 Cylinder center line n 
 
 137 
 
138 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cylinder, moving a 64 
 
 raising by blocking 121 
 
 Dead man, locating 34 
 
 Engine foundations i 
 
 high-speed center-crank, erection of in 
 
 Erecting, lighter work in 130 
 
 Erection of high-speed center-crank engines in 
 
 Fly-wheel, building up 101 
 
 sections, handling 52 
 
 Forces foundations must resist 3 
 
 Foundation bolts 9, 14 
 
 -box of engine 112 
 
 Foundations i 
 
 brick .' 15 
 
 concrete 7 
 
 in soft and moist ground 2 
 
 Framing 37 
 
 Gallows frame rig 117 
 
 Gin pole 44, 55 
 
 Grouting foundation-box 115 
 
 Guy falls, arrangement 49 
 
 Hauling heavy machinery through city streets 26 
 
 Hitch of lashing for hook 50 
 
 on receiver 58 
 
 Hitches ... 18 
 
 Horizontal turbine 7 
 
 Hub bolts, tightening 133 
 
 Inclines, building 37 
 
 Inertia forces 3 
 
 Jacks against walls 43 
 
 for handling shaft 96 
 
INDEX 139 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Jacks used in handling cylinder 65, 72, 78, 85, 86, 88 
 
 used in hauling machinery 26 
 
 Jury mast knot 2 3 
 
 Knots 18 
 
 Lighter work in erecting 130 
 
 Links, heating and handling 130 
 
 Locating a dead man 34 
 
 Luff tackle used in hauling machinery 27 
 
 Machinery, hauling through city streets 26 
 
 Main frame, handling ' 74 
 
 Molds for concrete foundations 8 
 
 Moving a cylinder 64 
 
 Pillow-block section, handling 74 
 
 Pistons, adjusting 134 
 
 Raising a shaft 36 
 
 cylinder by blocking 121 
 
 wheels and pressing on shaft . . . 123 
 
 Receiver, handling 54 
 
 rigging for 5 2 
 
 Reciprocation forces 3 
 
 Rigging for a heavy lift 89 
 
 for receiver 52 
 
 Rollers, arrangement in unloading cylinder 80, 85, 86, 88 
 
 for moving shaft 43 
 
 on an incline 94 
 
 proper angle for 68 
 
 Rope sizes 93 
 
 Rotation forces , 3 
 
 Runway along car 81 
 
 on an incline 36 
 
 Setting turbines on concrete foundation 12 
 
 vertical reciprocating engine on concrete foundation 12 
 
140 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Shaft center line 1 1 
 
 raising a 36 
 
 unloading 75 
 
 Sheepshank 20 
 
 Sizes of rope 93 
 
 Slide section, handling 45. 74 
 
 Slinging a barrel 25 
 
 Snatch block 48, 50 
 
 Splice, endless-wound 22 
 
 Stone jacks 65, 83 
 
 Templet, how to set ' 9 
 
 Tightening bolts 129 
 
 hub bolts 133 
 
 Tramming crank center 1 26 
 
 Turbine, horizontal 7 
 
 setting on concrete foundation 12 
 
 vertical 7 
 
 Unloading a heavy shaft 75 
 
 Vertical reciprocating engine, setting on concrete foundation . 12 
 
 strain on foundations 3 
 
 turbine 7 
 
 Vibration, avoiding 14 
 
 Wheel, raising and pressing on shaft 1 23 
 
 Winch, hand 31 
 
 Work for a gin pole 44 
 
u/u/ 
 
 /