IVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 1 III I III I II II III I II! I II 3 1822019442839 RR.G.S. .. . . :. , 335% DIAMONDS AND PRECIOUS STONES: THEIR HISTORY, VALUE, AND DISTINGUISHING CHARACTERISTICS. WITH SIMPLE TESTS FOR TH EIR IDENTIFICATION BY HARRY EMANUEL, F.R.G.S. . SECOND EDITION, WITH A NEW TABLE OF THE PRESENT VALUE OF DIAMONDS. LONDON: JOHN CAMDEN HOTTEN, PICCADILLY. 1867. right of Translation is reset ved. PREFACE TO NEW EDITION HE rapid exhaustion of the first edition, and the numerous demands for more copies, having proved to the Author that, contrary to his expectation, a plain and unvarnished statement of facts connected with precious stones has proved interesting not only to the trader in gems, and to the amateur in mineralogy, but to the general public he has been emboldened to publish another edition, in which he has made several important corrections and additions which have been necessitated by the course of events. The prediction of the rise in the value of diamonds has been verified, as will be seen by a comparison of the present table of values with that of the preceding edi- tion in spite of an unprecedented crisis and subsequent iv Preface to New Edition. commercial depression, and notwithstanding the number of purchasers of gems must have been lessened by the ruin of the thousands of persons who, when making, according to their idea, a solii investment, were in fact only purchasing an unlimited liability. Notwithstanding this commercial crisis and depression, the value of diamonds bas steadily augmented. The Author has incurred considerable animosity in some quarters from ' having disclosed the secrets of the trade,' but he considered at the time, and still thinks, that to an honest dealer, knowledge on the part of the public is a benefit instead of an evil ; and against those who bring a stigma on an honourable profession by unfair means, he is only too delighted to put the public on their guard. As stated in the first edition, this work has been written with no view to benefit the Author in any manner. H. E. Clarence Terrace, Regent's June 1867". numerous, and the task is apt to be lit ter than a farce. In default of more satisf; work not a few unions fall back in the on oakum-picking. One union, int^, Bvoms the difficulty by making scarcely /any attempt to get any work done at all. In respect of the length of time worked, the outdoor pauper has a distinct advantage over the ordinary workman. In no trade in London does a week'iWork consist of less than 62^houfs' work. In no s tone-yard does it imply more tMan 45, in the majority only 42 ; in several it is 3y ; in one union lastVrinter it was actually 32. /Moreover, carpenters tor engineers have to be ^iWork by 7 o'clock evek in the coldest weather The stone- 8 30 or 9 is last winter The theory its gates till 8 ; hour. One uni operations at amely, that the r^en would have d to seek employment before ce,however,iy was found a con- ce by the c/ass of applicants who preferred to Ne in bed tillAheir wives had got the breakfast reaoy, and \vxien the hour was altered to 9 a.m. to little more than At this point th asked " How much Strictly speaking, the nothing. The task se work at which he can test to prove his relief given him de work he has accom necessity as meas A single man recei and food taken wife and three ch wife and six chi that this is too lofr, but it m in the first p' rent. If a m numbers promptly dropped will doubtless .be man earn in a week 1" wer is that he earns m is not remunerative wages, but merely a rity. Accordingly, the not on the amount of but simply on his ythei number of his family. on ^he average, in money ther, en 7s. 4 9s. 9d. 9d., a man with a and a man with a t may be thought kt be remembered, that no allowance is made for has not sufficient credit to be "allowed to " ritn his rent" till ke gets back into work, he is su/posed to be a fit calke for the work- house rather /than the stone-yard\ Further, the iicale for a man with a large family ik only slightly fcolow what ihe best class of workmen secure for themselves /as " unemployed benefits from their trade soci/tiea. If a mechanic caA keep the the door on 12s., 9s. 9d. cannot too small for the applicants to yard, who are almost entirely Vmskilled ~ it the scale given above is th\ average two widely separate extremes, either of is difficult^to justify, Fot example,!* single i expected to subsist for a week on 2s.\4d. at rhithe; in Battersea he is allowed 5o. fld. for tihe/same period. Similarly 6s. 8d. will hardly Huffice for a man with a wife and six children ,\but ;fco/ iudsre bv the standard iust attem spon, ci tess sc sc fc ai , Tiled Vi htly D rtone -f/ML-S DIAMOND CUTTING. MOV 4 * TO THE EDITOR OF THE TIMES. Sir, My attention has been drawn to some statistics given in your paper of October 18 regarding the diamond cutting industry of Amsterdam. The public are probably not aware of the extent to which this interesting in- dustry has been revived in London. N early 200 years ago Englishmen were the finest dia- ond cutters in the world, and the trade was j nearly all carried on in London, and at the present time old English cut diamonds will always fetch a very high price, as the cutting is still so much prized. Through religious perse- cution the cutters migrated to Amsterdam, where they have since remained. At the present time anyone visiting one of the largest diamond cutting factories in Amsterdam will be shown a model of the Koh-i-noor and told that it was cut and polished at their factory, when it is an undis- puted fact that both Her Majesty the Queen and the late Prince Consort took BO great an interest in the cutting that Messrs. Garrard, the Queen's jewellers, had a room specially fitted up for it to be cut in, and it was all done at Messrs. Garrard's present establishment in the Hay- market. The Duke of Wellington put the first facet on and Her Majesty and nearly all the members of the Royal Family assisted in putting on those most perfect facets other occupation which they can return to when a depres- sion comes on in the diamond trade, but at the present time there are now a great number actually in full work. Up to the end of 1885 out of four of the principal mines of South Africa viz., Kimberley, De Beers, Bultfontein, and Du Toit's Pan, no less than 33 million carats of diamonds (or more than? six-and-a-half tons' weight) have been extracted, realizing about 40,000,000. The diamonds now discovered are nearly all found in British possessions, viz., Africa and India. Mines are now being developed in New South Wales, and yet the vast majority of the stones are still sent to foreign countries to be cut and polished, -which, I am sure, every Englishman will consider ought not to be, especially as we have so many good workmen , with no employment. With the aid of the British public t and the Press the trade could be developed into a very : large and thriving industry,as not only is there an immense opening for men to cut and polish the large stones, but at the present time the supply of small brilliants to use as decorations round other gems, &c., is not equal to the demand. As one of the greatest secrets connected with the trade consists in the one word " patience," there is an immense field for the employment of women. As a nation, the Americans are the finest judges of dia- monds in the world. American buyers insist on getting the finest stones and the most perfect of cutting. India takes a very large quantity of the white stones, as the. natives invest their capital in them as we do in stocks and shares, but they will not take yellow or coloured diamonds nor stones with flaws or specks in them. Kussia takes the large and yellow stones. China has only lately opened up her country to the diamond trade,as until recently Chinese subjects were not allowed to decorate themselves with these magnificent gems, but just recently the Empress of China has broken through that custom by wearing at Court a very superb diamond necklet, so there is now a demand in that vast continent. In the report you quoted were these words, " Besides Antwerp, the diamond industry is carried on extensively nowhere else." If that be so where does America go to for her finest cut diamonds ? Well, I am very thankful to say, London. I believe the last official report published was that America took about 3,000,000 worth of cut diamonds annually from England. It is a well known fact that where the British workman has mastered his art, no matter what art that may be, he is absolutely unsurpassed. We are actually at the present time permitting the diamond cutting industry to extend from Amsterdam to Antwerp, New York, and Paris, and oven Switzerland is employing large numbers of both male and female workpeople in "this art. It only requires a de- termined effort for us to regain it entirely as our own, and at the present time, I am glad to say, the serious attention of some of our leading men is occupied in trying to develop this industry. If any information with regard to this subject be required, I shall bo most happy to give whatever I can, as it is a subject that I have studied with great interest for some years now. In fairness to the British diamond industry, I sincerely hope you will not only let the public know these facts, but wiH also aid us in our endeavours to recover a lost trade. I remain your obedient servant, LEWIS ATKINSON, Manager of the British Diamond Industry exhibited in the Cape of Good Hope Court, Colonial and Indian Exhibition. 33, Brook-street, Grosvenor-square, W. IV com of p ruin acco only this ! bas > T some trade to ai is a brinj mear guarc writl mam *&2Jk lexandra, which turned out to be the Dres ught engaging the Scout. A few minutes aft^r s the latter was seen escaping towards /the nc land. The Alexandra's men immediately stoqti t(. dt their guns ; but as the armour-clad could nj witlrui range she did not open fire. At a qi nupast fly the Scout turned round and made a lash ai the flagship in the hope of being able to /fire hei torpedoVbefore being put out of action./ In thii cc she failed, as both the Alexandra and AgamemnoT en opened a\remendous fire on her and cisyfm to hav< 'a " destroyed " her. The same fate is (declared t< r have bei'alW the Dolphin and Alb/core at thi i hands of the. Dreadnought and Thunoerer. Whei f entering theYhannel the Commandet'-in-Chief ob c served the Polyphemus and detached the Dread p,nought to " destroy " her and protect his rear The " destruction " was completed by directing S pthe whole of the\ships to assemble outside the bay at where they were ordered into fo/mation. The Ad j.miral then entered* the harbour/ at the head of th< Q now combined forces and anchored off the towi before noon. The ntial act of the manoeuvres wai ^an attack by a flotilla of eight torpedo-boats 01 the ships at anchor. \This/came off during thi ' night of the 14th-15th \f October. Several torpe C(y does were fired, none ofWiiich passed through thi defence nets of the shipsY which again justified thi ^confidence placed in tbqm as a protection t< te anchored ships. The advantage, or indeed the pos gu sibility, of using them/by smps under way is rnor< t^than doubtful. It is/quite Certain that to do s< fi would be to resign all advantages due to superi o speed, for they greatdy reduce aT ship's way througl , 'the water, and, /6onsequentljL put her at tla^ , mercy of a comparatively insignificant antagonist \ The completioy of the manceuv\es, which had nov Blasted from noon on Monday till near midnight 01 Friday, by no nieans indicated theVinishing of th no work. Ships /nad to be restored to\ their origina P^trim ; mines/had to be raised and examined ; elec trie cables byad to be got on board,dried, and over f hauled ; search-light projectors, guns\ signal esta ^blishments/to be brought back to tlaeir ships at torpedo-bciats to be refitted ; and th\ blocke' "channel tb be " swept." This meant a\week c Bl hard and incessant labour, which was greatly in of creased/by the necessity of at the same tiifle clear a f ing store ships that had arrived from England wit' cc storey for the fleet. In his original memorandur 01 hisBtoyal Highness the Commander-in-ChioS c< noijited out that the lessons which itwashoped rAigh earnt from the manoeuvres were : 1. The pi ti^ability of using mechanical mines for blockade V. If it is possible for cruisers to hang about ov side a cort for the -nurnose ol lavinei_lififiA_in^^ exact number of diamond cutters in London, and I gave them several foreign terms and their meanings that the men might give in describing their trade, but the return ADDITIONAL NOTES ON DIAMONDS. THE KOH-I-NOOR, p. 79. The important task of cutting this fine diamond was entrusted to Messrs. Garrard, of the Haymarket, London, who gave it into the hands of Mr. Coster, of Amsterdam. THE POLAR STAR, p. 8 1 . It was purchased in i845,"by Messrs. Garrard, of Count KoutousofF; subsequently it was purchased by the Princess Tousoupoff, of St. Petersburgh, in whose possession it now remains. It weighs 40^ carats. THE SANCY DIAMOND, p. 83. It was sold by Godoy, the Prince of Peace, who ruled Spain under Charles XIV. and Ferdinand VII., to Prince Demidoff, who has very recently parted with it to Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy for 20,000. VALUE OF DIAMONDS, p. 88. The value here quoted for a one-carat stone is slightly incorrect. Such a stone is now worth 21, but a stone of five carats is not worth 525, which would be its value according to the rule laid down by Jeffries ; it is worth actually about 350. vi Additional Notes on Diamonds, &V. DRESDEN DIAMOND, p. 85. This fine diamond recently passed into the possession of a Parsee, who, it is said, nas disposed of it to a native Indian prince. VALUE OF DIAMONDS, p. 90. The present value of stones of the first quality, of a less weight than two grains, is from 10 IQJ. to 'i per carat ; the second quality 9 per carat ; the third 7 I or. per carat. PRICES OF THE PEARL, p. 200201. The values mentioned in the tables on the above pages have increased in the following manner since the publica- tion of the first edition, two years since : Value in Value in A pearl of 3 grains . . I86 S . I2S. to IDS. ... i8s. 1867. to 20S. 4 . . . 22S. 35S. 28s. 45 s - ... 28s. . . . 403. 35 s - " 6 ccs 8 os. 99 8 . . . . . 9 os. ',',nos S " ... iocs. I2OS. 10 . . . . 8 ,,^9 ... 10 III 12 . . , . . 12 15 14 >, 16 14 . . , . . 15 18 18 20 l6 . . , . 2O ... 2O 99 18 . . . . . 30 4 30 j> 4 20 . . , . . 40 5 40 50 24 ,, . . , . . 60 72 60 30 . . 80 100 ... 80 7* , ' 1OO Additional Notes on Diamonds, &c. vii VALUE OF BRILLIANTS, p. 93. Since the first edition of this work appeared the value of brilliants has considerably increased, as the following table will show : Value in Value in 1865. 1867. A brilliant weighing \ of a carat .... 5 10 ... 6 a > * )*<' Ii . . 3 . . . , 3* 3^ > 3| * 4- %!* 4 ,' - 4* 4f - - 5 . . . ? defect, 'want of (or m:er) spread^ or faintest tinge of any colour, reduces these -values considerably. JADE, p. 210. The ornamental objects in this substance which have come to Europe from Japan, are said to have been only manufactured there, as the stone is not a native of the island. 9 10 11 18 O 21 28 o ... 35 38 45 48 o ... 55 65 ... 80 70 ... 90 88 ... no 100 ... 120 I2 5. ... 140 *35 ... 150 150 o ... 175 175 o 190 220 22O 230 ... 240 250 ... 300 280 ... 330 320 o ... 350 viii Additional Notes on Diamonds, &c. DOUBLET or SEMI-STONE, p. 218. A new species of fraud has lately been introduced by some unprincipled persons, which consists in using a plate stone, painted at the back, and then foiled. This is extremely difficult of detection, and the system cannot be too severely reprimanded ; for although the practice of foiling stones of pale colour is universal, still, if the pur- chaser be warned that the stone is foiled, he knows what he is buying ; but, by means of painting the stone, its natural colour is entirely disguised. A piece of crvstal may be, and often is, sold for a sapphire, topaz, ame- tnyst, &c. PREFACE. HE object of the present work may be stated in a few words. For many years the author has been a collector of the various scattered treatises which exist on the subject of Precious Stones. In all of these whether English or French, German or Italian he has failed to find that particular informa- tion, compact within a single volume, which is re- quired by the inexperienced purchaser as well as the trader. Hints and rules of considerable value are to be met with here and there in different works, but these instructions are so buried in scientific disquisition, or lost amongst anecdotes and gossip, that for pur- poses of ready reference the books are almost value- x Preface. less. By amateurs, as well as traders, he has often been asked for a manual or handbook upon the sub- ject of Precious Stones, one giving advice and instruc- tions for the buyer as well as the seller, but with the exception of Jeffries now a century old, and out of date there exists no such work in the English lan- guage. In the following treatise, the author sets up no claim to literary or scientific skill ; what he has done is merely to record his own experience with Precious Stones, adding those facts and instructions given in preceding works which seemed of special value. The work has been written in odd portions of time, taken up when a little leisure afforded opportunity, and laid aside when business compelled its relinquishment. The several sheets were printed off as written, and the author is sorry to find, from an examination just made, that many colloquialisms and trade technicalities have thus crept in. However, this much he can say in its favour, that no one fact or suggestion which he thought would be of the least value to the amateur or the trader, and which he was acquainted with, has been withheld. Compiled in the manner stated, and notwithstanding the absence of literary elegancies, the writer cannot but think his book will prove useful to the merchant, in supplying him without trouble with the distinguishing characteristics of each gem, and to Preface. xi the amateur as affording him simple and easy means for distinguishing the false from the real, and the valuable from the worthless. To many persons, doubtless, a treatise upon the sub- ject of Precious Stones may appear an unworthy, if not an idle task; but when the immense amount of capital, which lies dormant in the Imperial and Royal Treasuries, and in private hands, is considered, and when the fact is remembered that there is scarcely a home where jewels of one sort or another all repre- senting a money value are not to be found, the subject assumes an importance, which it lacks at first sight. To the political economist, this hoarded and time-honoured wealth must possess a singular interest. Next to gold, any sudden and considerable check whether in supply or demand would be attended with startling consequences in the case of Precious Stones. In times of revolution and political trouble, jewels, from their extreme portability, have always risen in price : in Paris, during the great Revolution of 1789-96, diamonds doubled their previous value, and even now, in foreign countries, many personages of note make a practice of keeping them in their posses- sion in case of emergency. The historical outlines, the opinions of the ancients, together with what may be termed the Geography of Precious Stone?, given under each division, were added xii Preface. more for the benefit of the general reader than for the amateur or trader. A recital of constituents, methods of polishing, with the characteristics of each stone, seemed such dry materials for an entire book, that he deemed it advisable to add historical and other parti- culars for the benefit of those who might desire infor- mation upon these matters. A great deal of curious as well as important matter regarding gems lies scat- tered in odd chapters of books of travel and in old Government Reports. A selection from such out-of- the-way sources has been included in the present treatise. The author has endeavoured to give the approximate trade value of the various gems, but his readers must please remember that Precious Stones obey (although in a somewhat less degree) the same laws that regu- late the price and value of every other commodity those of supply and demand. Of late years, certainly, the tendency has been towards a rise, and from the in- flux of gold, and the increasing difficulty of finding gems, they appear likely to attain a still greater value, vet it is impossible to predict what changes may occur, or to fix a standard value to jewels any more than to any other articles of commerce. The average price of a carriage horse may, perhaps, be sS8o, yet one of ex- treme beauty or faultless action will probably realize , or even ,200. So, though a fine diamond Preface. xiii of one carat will ordinarily be bought for i&, still if it be a specimen stone it may realize ^20 or i\. The value of extremely large stones is also, as may readily be supposed, somewhat arbitrary, for although Nature seems to produce them in comparatively regular proportion, i. e. the small ones in profusion, and the larger sizes in a progressively smaller number ; still the number of persons able and willing to purchase them becomes extremely limited, and it is impossible at any time to predict the prices they may realize. For in- stance, the diamond called the Regent, belonging to the Crown Jewels of France, would, if estimated according to the system hitherto practised, be worth ^175,000, yet if compelled to be sold it would be impossible to say what amount it might realize. Coloured stones and pearls also, when of extraoi- dinary beauty, size, or brilliancy, are worth, and will sell for, sums extravagant in proportion to the prices named} and the reason is obvious, for so soon as any stone surpasses in any marked degree the ordinary quality of that particular gem, it is removed from the common category, and its price will depend more upon the fancy of purchasers than on any system of valua- tion.* * This remark also holds good with regard to diamonds when of a rare tint. .300 was lately paid for a diamond of a vivid green colour, weighing 4! grains, which, if perfectly white, would not^ under any circumstances, have sold for more than 22. xvi Preface. Hants ' at present are universally worn, "roses" in ge- neral being only used where the space in the setting pro- hibits the introduction of the " brilliant " form. With regard to his tables of value, as he fixes the price of a perfectly white and spread brilliant of one carat at ^8, and as now from sij to gi8 may be readily obtained for that size, no reliance can be placed upon them. The book was admirable for its day, but, like most other practical works, became an uncertain guide as values changed and fashions varied. One remark the writer must make. When a mer- chant turns author, it is notunusual for some of his readers to conclude that business purposes or personal advantage induced him to take pen in hand ; but this, the inquirer is very plainly assured, was not the reason of the present publication, or the intent of the compiler In all pro- bability there may be found those in his profession who will unthinkingly blame him for making known what are usually deemed trade secrets ; but he is confident that on reflection any such censure will be withdrawn, especially as no names are mentioned which can either injure or advantage ; and in enabling the public to test by their own knowledge and observation the truth of the statements made to them, he does not surely ren- der himself liable to reproof. In the rendering of the several Eastern terms, and in the preparation of the Table of Comparative Translation Preface. xvii in various Semitic languages of the Precious Stones mentioned in the Bible, the author has to acknowledge the valuable assistance he has received from the Rev. Mr. Loewe, one of our most accomplished Orienta] scholars. H E. 8, Clarence Terrace, Regenft Park, June. 1865. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION i THE PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS OF PRE- CIOUS STONES 6 Hardness ........ 6 Lustre 7 Colour 8 Optical Qualities 10 Single Refraction 10 Double Refraction . . . . . . la Polarization of Light 12 Specific Gravity 14 Electrical Properties 16 Diaphaneity 18 Fusibility 19 IDEAS OF THE ANCIENTS RESPECTING PRECIOUS GEMS . 21 ON THE PRECIOUS STONES MENTIONED IK THE BIBLE 33 Table of Comparative Translations from the Original Hebrew of the Twelve Stones men- tioned in the Bible as worn by the High Priest 36 XX Contents. THE STONES IN THE BREASTPLATE OF THE HIGH PRIEST . 1. Odem 2. Pitdah 3. Bareketh 4. Nophek 5. Sappir ........ 6. Jahalom 7. Leshem ... .... 8. Shebo 9. Achlamah 10. Tharshish 11. Shoham . 12. Jashpeh THE DIAMOND Carbonate, or Diamond Carbon .... Diamond Cutting and Polishing .... Names of Different Forms into which Diamonds are cut SOME ACCOUNT OF LARGE DIAMONDS The Braganza The Mattam Diamond The Koh-i-Noor . . . The Cumberland Diamond The Orloff Diamond The Polar Star The Shah The Regent or Pitt Diamond .... The Eugenie Brilliant The Florentine Brilliant The Sancy The Pasha of Egypt The Nassak, or Nassac, Diamond Contents. xxi PAGE The Piggott Diamond .... i . 84 The Hope Diamond u 84 The Star of the South . ... 85 Other Large Diamonds 85 On the Value of Diamonds 86 Table of Present Value of Brilliants up to Five Carats 93 Comparative Values of Diamonds in 1606 and 1750 94 Rose Diamonds 95 The Brilliolette, or Briolet . .96 ON THE CUTTING OF COLOURED STONES . 97 THE RUBY, SAPPHIRE, OR-IENTAL TOPAZ, ETC. . 101 The Sapphire .... . no Other Varieties of Corundum . . . .114 The Oriental Amethyst ... .114 The Oriental Emerald . . . . . . 1 1 5 The Yellow Sapphire or Oriental Topaz . .115 The Oriental Aquamarine 115 The Chrysoberyl, Cymophane, and Cafs-eye . .115 The Spinel and Balas Ruby 118 The Topaz .123 The Emerald .129 The Zircon, Hyacinth, or Jacinth . . .139 The Garnet .... ... 141 The Tourmaline . .... 147 Quartz . 151 Rock Crystal . . . . . -153 The Amethvst .... .156 The Cairngorm, Cinnamon Stone, False Topaz, etc - - '59 Avanturine, 01 Aventuiine 161 Chrysoprase . .... 162 Onyx and Sardonyx . . . . . .163 xxii Contents. PAGE The Sard and Carnelion 168 Chalcedony, Mocha-stones, Plasma, and Agate 168 Agate 170 Cat's-eye . . . . . .172 Jasper ,173 The Bloodstone or Heliotrope . . . 175 The Chrysolite, Peridot, or Olivine . . .176 The Turquoise '. 178 The Opal 182 THE PEARL . . 187 On the Value and Discrimination of Pearls . . 196 SUBSTANCES USED IN JEWELLERY NOT PROPERLY PRECIOUS STONES 202 Moon-stone 202 Lapis Lazuli 203 Malachite 206 Labradorite, or Labrador Felspar .... 207 Jet 208 Jade, or Nephrite. . .... 208 Amber 210 Coral . . ... 213 ON THE MEANS OF ASCERTAINING THE IDENTITY OF GEMS 216 Table of the Distinguishing Characteristics of Gems 220 Names of Stones in Different Languages . 226 Precious Stones arranged according to their Colours 229 APPENDIX. THE BIBLIOGRAPHY OF PRECIOUS STONES . . 233 INDEX . 261 INTRODUCTION. Y precious gems are meant minerals re- markable for hardness, lustre, beauty of colour, transparency, or for the extreme rarity of their occurrence in nature, and which are used in personal ornaments, such as jewellery. This definition excludes many gems so classed by mineralogists, but which have no commercial value, and many others that were prized by the ancients on account of the supernatural properties, and health- restoring charms they were supposed to possess, and which, if true, must have rendered them indeed pre- cious and priceless to the possessor and wearer. The estimation in which these flowers of the mineral king- dom have been held from the very earliest ages, alike by the most refined and the most barbarous nations, 2 Introduction. is extraordinary, so that gems really seein to possess some occult charm which causes them to be coveted. The fixed, and, so to say, intrinsic value of jewels (coupled with their extreme portability), has always made them a favourite form of investment. In the French revolution of 1789, diamonds rose enormously in value, and, perhaps from the same causes, we ob- serve a large increase in their price in the United States of America at the present time. Precious stones are disseminated about the globe in profusion ; they occur alike amid the torrid deserts of Africa and the icy steppes of Siberia ; under the burning sun of India and Ceylon, and amidst the glaciers of Switzerland ; in the beds of the mighty fivers of South America ; in Germany, Spain, and even in our own land; generally in the midst of some substance or deposit differing entirely from them. The tropical countries, however, are far more prolific in this respect than the other parts of the globe : it would seem as if the countries where the sun shines with most splendour produce gems in greater quantities ; and perhaps the volcanic changes to which they are subject may have something to do with the matter. They are found most generally in the older formations, such as granite, gneiss, etc., in the beds of rivers, where they have been brought by torrents, generally accompanied by the precious metals ; and often various kinds of gems are found together. When we consider the wonderful combination of seemingly Introduction. 3 fortuitous circumstances which are required for the formation of these beautiful crystals, to give them the required transparency, brilliancy, and lustre, the free- dom from defects and flaws, and the presence of the exact quantity of colouring matter to furnish the de- sired tint, it will be no matter of astonishment that they occur so seldom ; and the idea that one day pre- cious stones may become as plentiful as marble may be dismissed as groundless, when the numerous qualifi- cations which are necessary for a stone to enter into this aristocratic and exclusive family are considered ; for there must not only exist the crystallization to give the required form, but the hardness to allow of the proper polish and lustre, and the colouring matter to produce the desired hue ; and should one of these requisites be wanting, the gem loses its value in the eye of the con- noisseur. The minerals which are the component parts of gems are plentiful throughout the globe ; we can ob- tain magnesia, glucina, alumina, metallic oxides, etc., in profusion, and we can separate the gems them- selves into their component parts ; but, not all the researches of learned chemists, not all the accumulated science of the nineteenth century, has succeeded in wresting the secret from nature, or of producing them of any size or value by artificial means. The material of the diamond, for instance, " carbon," is found almost everywhere, in the bread we eat, in the coal and wood we burn ; uncrystallized, it is brittle and opaque, 4. Introduction. but when crystallized, is the hardest known substance, pure as the limpid stream, and shining with the greatest brilliancy when cut and polished} whilst the amor- phous variety, carbonate, although of precisely the same composition, and of nearly equal specific gravity, is black and lustreless, and is degraded to the purpose of cutting and polishing other gems. Again, the emerald is composed of identically the same substances as the beryl, minus the required colouring matter ; yet the emerald commands a large price, and the beryl is com- paratively valueless. The amethyst and rock-crystal are exactly the same substance, except that one is white and the other coloured ; the amethyst, when of fine quality, has considerable value, rock-crystal very little. The oriental topaz and the ruby are the same stones, but of different colour ; yet the value of the ruby sur- passes that of the topaz a hundredfold. In fact, precious stones must not only have the de- sired colour, but the exact hue and shade in demand to obtain the extreme value. No matter how brilliant the ruby, or how free from defects and flaws, it must have the precise pigeon's-blood-red to make it the gem which surpasses the diamond in value. Almost all gems conceal their true beauties in a natural state. The diamond in die rough is most unattractive, and would be thrown away by a casual observer as a worthless pebble ; its perfections are hidden under a hard crust, which can only be removed by its own powder. The deep velvety hue of the sap- Introduction. 5 phire, the glowing brilliant red of the ruby, the soft clear green of the emerald, and the delicate strata of the onyx, alike only display themselves in their true cha- racter after the lapidary has exhausted his skill in cut- ting them into facets and polishing them ; and on the perfection of this operation depends in a great measure the beauty of the gem. It may be here observed, that many pure and perfect jewels have been irretrievably spoilt by unskilful hands. THE PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS OF PRECIOUS STONES. HARDNESS. Y the term hardness, must not be under- stood the ordinary acceptation of the word, "difficulty of breakage," but the scientific definition, namely, the resist- ance one body offers to the mechanical pressure of an- other, or, in other words, liability or non-liability to scratch. In the Table A. it will be seen that on the one side is given the mineralogical scale of hardness of Moh, the German author, who has taken ten different substance* as standards of various degrees, and classed them in numbers from one to ten ; ten being the dia- mond, as the hardest-known body. On the other side, the substances which scratch one another are indi- cated, and as glass and quartz, or rock-crystal, are easily procured, and most precious stones are of equal Properties of Precious Stones. 7 or superior hardness, the gems are described as scratch- ing, or being scratched by them. This experiment can be tried upon cut stones, but it must be remembered that then, the mineral is not in its normal state, and presents different surfaces to those offered by nature in the rough crystals, and, in some instances, one part of a stone, from some extraneous cause such as flaws or imperfect crystallization is softer than the other. In direct proportion to the hardness of a crystallized mineral is its susceptibility of receiving and retaining a good polish, which is the principal cause of the su- perior brilliancy and beauty of jewels over all other natural ornaments worn as decorations. It is this hard- ness, also, that preserves gems from the effects of time so visible on all other works of nature and art in an- cient architectural remains, statuary, and paintings, the original beauties of which have faded away ; whereas jewels of the same date have been handed down from generation to generation, forming links in the history of man which might otherwise have been lost for ever. The gems found in the catacombs of Egypt, the buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and else- where, have not been without their uses to the student of history. LUSTRE. By lustre is meant the peculiar kind of brilliancy which precious stones possess, and which is called by va- rious names, corresponding to the appearances presented S Properties and Characteristics or The various kinds of lustre have been classed by mineralogists under the following heads : Adamantine possessing the brilliancy of the diamond. Vitreous resembling the surface of glass. Resinous shining as if rubbed with an oily substance. Pearly exhibiting the peculiar lustre of a pearl. Silky having a fibrous reflection similar to silk. Other substances have a lustre called metallic, but it is not named here, as it is not possessed by any precious stone. It must be remembered that in classifying the various kinds of lustre by these names, the nomenclature is only general, and must be taken as describing as ap- proximately as possible the peculiar appearance of each kind. COLOUK. Although gems differ from each other in colour, still this forms a very imperfect test of their identity with any particular class. Gems differing from each other in hardness, specific gravity, etc., have frequently the same colour. The ruby, the spinelle, and the garnet, are often met with of exactly similar tints. On this qualification, as much as on any other, depends the commercial value of a precious stone ; and none of the oth'er characteristics, such as form, brilliancy, or purity, are of any avail if the colour be not of the required hue. The colouring matter in gems is generally found to arise from the presence of various metallic oxides, other- wise they would be like rock-crystal. Sometimes the Precious Stones. 9 coloui which tinges the whole mass is found to arise from a small speck of colouring matter, which is only apparent when held in a particular manner against the light, and which is turned to account by the lapidary, who diffuses the colour by means of repeated internal reflection throughout the whole mass. The colours of precious stones are the most brilliant with which we are acquainted in nature, and approach more nearly than those of any other known bodies to those exhibited by the solar spectrum. The colour of a gem frequently changes its commer- cial name. The red sapphire is a ruby ; the yellow a topaz ; the white emerald is a beryl ; the green chry- solite is called a peridot ; and quartz changes its name and value as the colours which tint it differ. Gems are also found, which not only show gradations of the same colour, but two or even three different colours in the same specimen ; this is frequently the case with oriental sapphires, which have been found coloured red, blue, and yellow in the same crystal, and' in tourmalines, which are also found parti-coloured in the most eccentric manner. The asteroids, or star-stones, are gems that emit a variable lustre, which seems generally to proceed from some crystallographic imperfection ; their reflections often take the form of a four- or six-pointed star, and are particularly observable by sun- or gaslight. In some gems, the colour by reflected or by trans- mitted light, differs ; that is to say, they show a different I o Properties and Characteristics of colour when looked through or looked at. The opal and tourmaline are instances of this fact. OPTICAL QUALITIES. Precious stones are eminently endowed with several of those physical properties which belong to that ex- tensive class denominated optical. Of these, the most important to the subject, and which at the same time serve in many cases as tests of individuality, are single and double refraction and polarization of light, and a short description of them may prove service- able. In proof of the importance of this branch of the subject, it may here be stated, that the high refractive power of the diamond led the illustrious Newton to the conclusion of its combustibility, a fact verified by subsequent experiments. By refractive power is meant the property inherent in all transparent substances of altering the direction ot a ray of light, impinging on their surfaces. SINGLE REFRACTION. When a ray of light falls obliquely on die surface of any transparent body, it is bent or refracted from its ori- ginal course, and proceeds in another direction. Thus, suppose a closed box Precious Stones. 1 1 having a small hole at P. Let A be a luminous point, as a candle. Then the light proceeding from it would, if the box were empty, go on in a right line to B. But let the box be filled with water up to the level w w', then the ray falling on the water at V would not as before go on to B, but would be bent or refracted, and proceed to some othef point, B'. If we draw a perpendicular to the surface of the water at V, then the angle A V Q is called the angle of incidence ; the angle B' V Q' is called the angle of refraction. And between these two angles, or rather their sines, a certain relation or pro- portion holds, which relation is different for different transparent bodies, as water, glass, etc. To explain this relation, let A B C be any angle C M a perpendicular on one side of the angle, then the length of C M divided by C B is called the sine of the angle. In the case of refraction this relation is such, that however the angle of incidence may vary, the sine of that angle (for the same substance) bears an invariable proportion to the sine of the angle of refraction, which is called the refractive index of that substance, and is usually indicated by the Greek letter /* ; thus Sin, angle incidence _ Sin. angle of refraction f" 12 Properties and Characteristics of It may moreover be remarked, as an almost general rule, that the value of ft is high in proportion to the density of the substance. DOUBLE REFRACTION. When a ray of light is transmitted through certain crystalline and other bodies, it becomes divided into two rays, which proceed in different directions within the crystal. Of these rays, one (the ordinary ray) follows the law of refraction given above, the other (the extraordinary ray) a different law. Such crystal- line, etc., bodies are called doubly refractive j and it is found that the amount of double refraction that is, the amount of separation of the two refracted rays is dependent on the direction in which the light is trans- mitted through the crystal j and that in all substances there is at least one line along which the ray of light suffers no separation, and simply obeys the ordinary law : this line is called the axis of the crystal, or the axis of double refraction. This property is difficult of inves- tigation in the ordinary forms in which precious stones are met with in commerce ; a method of ascertaining it, which in many cases is convenient, is indicated at the end of the description of Polarization of Light. Gems also possess the power of polarizing light, which may be thus explained : POLARIZATION OF LIGHT. When a ray of light falls on a plate of transparen; Precious Stones. 13 glass inclined at an angle of about 56, and after reflec- tion therefrom falls on a second plate of glass at an angle of 56, it will be found that when the second plate C is horizontal like A, the ray will be reflected from C; but when the plate C, still preserving its incli- nation of 56, is turned round so as to be vertical, the ray will no longer be reflected, and will disappear. The ray after incidence on A is said to be polarized, the test of its polarization being that it refuses to be reflected from C when C is at a plane at right angles to the plane of incidence A. The angle, 56, by which light becomes polarized by incidence on glass is called the polarizing angle This angle is different for different bodies. The diamond is about 68. Light may also be polarized by transmission through tourmaline, Iceland spar, 01 other double refracting bodies. To determine the polarizing angle of a body, we have only to reflect a ray of light from its surface at such an angle that it shall refuse to be reflected by a plate of glass inclined at an angle of 56, and placed in a plane at right angles to the first plane of reflection, or that it shall incapable of transmission through a plate of tour- 14 Properties and Characteristics of maline properly disposed. As alluded to before, double refraction may sometimes be conveniently determined from this property of light ; for which purpose the sub- stance to be examined should be interposed between the two reflecting plates, when so arranged that the original ray refuses to be reflected, in which case, should the body be doubly refracting, a position will be found in which a great portion of the previously intercepted light will be more or less transmitted. The refractive index of a body may also be ascertained from the polar- izing angle by the following relation : p = tan. polarizing angle. SPECIFIC GRAVITY. By specific gravity is meant the proportion the weight of any body bears to an equal volume of water; that is to say, supposing four substances whose volume was so exactly equal as to fill exactly the same mould, and that each had different weight when weighed in the balance, then these different weights, considered in relation to a common term of comparison, would sig- nify the specific gravity of the various substances. But as the bodies of which the specific gravity is required must have different volumes, the way to ascertain the specific gravity of any body is to weigh first in air and then in water, and to divide the weight in air by the difference between the weight in air and the weight in water. This principle is too well known to require any further explanation. Precious Stones. 15 The following is a simple mode of ascertaining the specific gravity of any gem : The stone of which the specific gravity is to be obtained, is first weighed in the ordinary manner in the scales, and having noted the exact weight, it is then fixed by means of a piece of wire bent in the form of a hook, and a small piece of wax to one side of the scale, whilst in the other is placed a piece of wire and a piece of wax of the same weight, or their equivalent in weights. The scale, with the stone attached, is now allowed to fall in a cup of distilled or even filtered water, and weights are put in the opposite scale till the weight of the stone is counterbalanced, and the scales exactly even. It is evident that a less weight is required to counterbalance the stone submerged in water com- pared with that when it was weighed in the air, as the water in some measure supports it. The weight in water is then subtracted from the weight in air, and the weight in air divided by the difference, viz. Weight in air 17 carats. Weight in watei . . . . 1 2 5- 17 = 3-5' In order to ascertain the specific gravity of a stone accurately, the following conditions must be ful- filled : The gem must be perfectly clean, and free from dust, grease, or any adherent substance. It must be free from holes or porosities; and, before being weighed in water, il must be rubbed in it to icmove 1 6 Properties and Characteristics of the adherent air, and, if the stone be of a porous description, it must be allowed to absorb as much as it is capable of, before being weighed. The ascertainment of the specific gravity is a matter of great necessity for the proper comprehension of gems. It affords in many instances a test of the greatest value, and prevents the possibility (when the specific gravity differs) of one gem being substituted for another ; such as jargoon and white sapphire for dia- mond, which occasionally happens by fraud or error ; also, in the case of stones which are cut and polished, it is a valuable assistance in determining the family to which they belong, without the possibility of the slightest injury to the gems. There are many valuable instruments made for determining the specific gravity, the hydrometer, etc., which may be used where great accuracy is required, such as in scientific experiments j but, for all ordinary purposes, the manner I have indicated will suffice. This test was well known to the ancients, and was practised in India several centuries ago. ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES. Electricity is the property inherent in some bodies of attracting and repelling smaller bodies, and it can be excited in minerals by friction, heat, and pressure. Some are conductors, some non-conductors of electri- city. If a conductor, the stone must be isolated by placing it on some non-conducting body, such as glass Precious Stone*. 27 or sealing-wax. This property is either positive or negative, or, as formerly expressed, vitreous or resinous. The faculty of the retention of the electricity produced is very varied in all minerals; and the time which elapses before they lose it, forms a valuable distinguish- ing mark and test of their identity. The Abbe Haiiy, in his valuable work on gems, dedicated to Mr. Hope, speaks of this property at great length, and used some valuable instruments for determining it. A very sim- ple mode, however, is to use an ordinary electrometer, and to communicate a known electricity to it, by touch- ing it with a piece of rubbed sealing-wax, until, on ap- proaching the wax slowly to the needle, it repels it The needle has then acquired a negative electricity, and will be attracted by a positive electric crystal, and re- pelled by a negative one. This experiment should, however, be tried on a dry day. Some crystals become electric by pressure, Iceland spar, for instance, to a very high degree. The topaz, amethyst, and all the stones which come under the denomination of quartz, slightly so. The electricity which is produced in some bodies by heat is called pyro-electricity. The Indians have long been acquainted with this*property. The tourmaline derives its name of "aschentrekkcr," in Dutch, from the fact of its alternately attracting and repelling hot ashes if placed amidst them. The diamond, garnet, topaz, and emerald, possess this property in a less degree. c 1 8 Properties and Characteristics of It is to be observed, that it is not the heat, but the change of temperature which causes the electricity ; so that if a stone be kept at the same degree of heat, no effect will be produced. It is only by the increase or decrease of temperature that it is to be observed. This experiment is usually tried by a decreasing temperature, and in certain stones two sorts of electricity are de- veloped at the opposite ends or poles. By increase of heat the positive pole becomes negative, the negative pole positive. To examine the pyro-electric properties of a gem, it can be held during its heating or cooling against the needle of a sensitive electrometer, avoid- ing carefully any friction. The longer the crystal, the greater the quantity of electricity produced in propor- tion. In order to ascertain the length of time during which a stone retains its electricity, it must be left in contact with some metallic body. The topaz continues to affect the needle after twenty-four hours. This pro- perty was well known to the Greeks ; their name of amber, " electron," was given to it from its power of attracting small bodies by friction. DIAPHANEITY. Most gems are transparent to a greater or less degree ; that is to say, they possess the power of transmitting light. The following terms are made use of to distin- guish the various degrees : Transparent, when objects can be seen distinctly through it. Precious Stones. 19 Semitransparent, when the outlines of objects seen through it are indistinct. Translucent, when only light is transmitted, and ob- jects are invisible. $emitranslucent, when translucent at the edges only. Opaque, where no light is transmitted. FUSIBILITY. The ease or difficulty experienced in fusing gems forms another distinguishing characteristic, and also affords a mode of ascertaining their composition and colouring matter. Most precious stones are infusible or fusible with great difficulty by means of fluxes, such as borax or soda. The diamond is infusible although combustible. The ruby, sapphire, and all corundums are fusible with borax, but with great difficulty. The emerald, zircon, spinel, etc., likewise. The application of heat to the various gems produces very different results ; some change colour, some swell and decrepitate, some burn ; in soray, globules are pro- duced; in some, an enamel; in some, dust ; and in some, phosphorescence may be observed. The description of all these chemical changes belongs, however, more properly to a scientific work than to the province of a simple treatise like this ; and the manner of using the blowpipe, which is the mode usually adopted for fusing minerals for experimental purposes, is too well known to require explanation. c a 2O Properties of Precious Stones. One of the most important points to be observed, however, is the part of the jet of flame to be used. If the outside flame is used, metallic bodies become oxidized ; if the inner flame, which is of a bluish-red colour, and which is the hottest portion of it, the mine- ral becomes fused. Experiments are usually tried on small quantities of the gem, ground to powder, and held in a small pla- tina cup. Some gems are affected by acids. The opal is affected by potash j the turquoise, garnet, chrysolite, and tour- maline by acids. Some are unassailable by any chemi- cal substance, particularly the diamond, the corun- dums, and spinel. IDEAS OF THE ANCIENTS RESPECTING PRECIOUS GEMS. HE origin of the taste for gems is lost in the most remote ages. The most ancient records to which we have access bear evi- dence of its previous existence. In ancient Egypt jewels were engraved in the form of scarabaei, and are even now disinterred from the mummy-pits. The Jews adorned the breastplate of the High-Priest with precious stones, and the similarity of the names in both their languages would lead us to suppose that they derived their knowledge from them. The conquerors of Mexico and Peru found the Montezumas and the Incas in possession of gems engraved and cut into the forms of animals and other objects, to which their tra- ditions gave a remote antiquity. The Hindu mythology speaks of gems in a manner which shows that they were in general estimation. In their songs and ballads, pre- cious stones are often spoken of. Pliny records that the 22 Ideas of the Ancients garments and utensils of the Indian nations were orna- mented with gems, and no doubt this custom was of the greatest antiquity. With what stones they were acquainted we do not know, as the names given them both in Scripture and in other early accounts, do not correspond with ours. Indeed, the only stone of whose identity with the one described in the Holy Writ, we are somewhat certain, is the sapphire, as it bears the same name in Hebrew, "VDD, and is described as a trans- parent blue stone, ' like unto the vault of heaven,' which shows that this could not have been the sapphire of the Greeks and Romans, which is described as intermixed with gold. The twelve stones which were in the breastplate of the High-Priest were the sard, the topaz, the carbun- cle, or ruby, the emerald, the sapphire, the diamond, the ligure, the agate, the amethyst, the beryl, the onyx, and the jasper j also the two onyx stones on the shoulder-knot were engraved with the names of the twelve tribes, to each of which one of these stones was consecrated. The translations, however, of die Hebrew names differ in many Oriental versions from the au- thorized text j but in the next Chapter will be found some information upon this interesting subject. The monarchs of the East, with their fondness for display and pomp, no doubt then, as now, decorated their horsa-trappings, their thrones, and their persons with gems, long even before they knew how to cut them ; and thev attributed, as they even now attribute, Respecting Precious Gems. 23, magic and talismanic properties to them. This belief is shared by almost every nation, and even in this country, at the present moment, is not yet extinct, as many persons wear a turquoise in the belief that it preserves them from contagion. Precious stones were no doubt brought from the East to the Egyptians and Greeks by the Phoenicians. In Egypt there certainly exist mines of emerald, but they have not been worked for centuries : very recently,, however, they have been visited by travellers. Homer mentions the earrings of Juno as containing shining gems, and it is well known that the Greeks used gems for seals, rings, etc. Ancient Greek intaglei are still ex- tant of turquoise, onyx, and even ruby. And in a poem by Orpheus, or, as some suppose, by Onomacriton, written at least 400 years before the Christian era, the supernatural powers of gems, in which die Greeks had implicit belief, are mentioned. One of their early writers ascribed to rock-crystal the power of producing the sacred fire used in the Eleu- sinian mysteries ; it was laid upon chips of wood in the sun, when first smoke and then flame was produced, and this fire was supposed to be most grateful to the gods. It is well known that a great part of the Gre- cian mythology was derived from the Egyptians; and as the priests were well acquainted with the use of many scientific instruments, which were carefully concealed from the vulgar, it seems probable that this tradition simply arose from the use of glass or crystal lenses (burning-glasses) . ^4 Ideas of the Ancients Plato and Aristotle were both acquainted with the existence of gems, and Theophrastus, the disciple and friend of Aristotle, has written a treatise on the subject, which is extant. Plato supposes the origin of pre- cious stones to be the vivifying spirit abiding in the stars, which, longing to form new things, converts the most vile and putrid matter into the most perfect objects. He describes the diamond as being found like a kernel in the gold, and supposed it to be the purest and noblest part, which had become condensed into a transparent mass. Theophrastus, in his work on stones, relates that water is the basis of all metals, earth of all stones ; and that from the difference of all matter, and from the manner of their coalescence and concretion, the stones have assumed their various qualities, such as smooth- ness, density, transparency, etc. This concretion he describes as produced in some instances by heat, and in some by cold. The emerald, he says, has the pro- perty of causing water to assume its colour. He de- scribes a common belief extant at the time he wrote, of the power some stones have of generating others, although he does not attach belief to this idea. He also mentions that the carbuncles found in Carthage and in Massilia, were bright red, and that when held against the sun, resembled glowing coal, which perfectly corresponds with the stones we now call by the same name. Although the ancients classed.all stones of simi- lar colour together as, for instance, by the Greek name Respecting Precious Gems. 25 'anthrax' in Latin, 'carbunculus' they included all gems of a red colour, such as hyacinths, rubies, garnets, etc. ; by ' sapphirus,' all blue stones, etc. : this arose solely from their want of chemical knowledge, and not from their want of appreciation of the difference existing be- tween the various stones of similar colour. The Greeks considered rock-crystal a congelation like ice, and sup- posed it to be only found in the coldest regions. Theo- phrastus, Aristotle, and Pliny, all concur in this belief. The emerald pillars in the Temple of Hercules, at Tyre, the emerald sent from Babylon as a present to a king of Egypt, four cubits in length and three in breadth, and the emerald obelisk described by Hero- dotus, were doubtless green jasper ; for Theophrastus mentions having seen an emerald, which was partly emerald and partly jasper. Pliny* ascribes the non-fusi- bility of some stones to the idea that they contain no moisture, and he describes a sapphire as a stone spotted with gold, which would lead to the belief that what in his time was called sapphire was a blue stone resembling lapis lazuli, or aventurine, and totally different from the blue corundums we call sapphire at the present day. The ' lapis lyncurius ' he describes as produced from an animal ; the gems were of two sorts, that called the male, dark ; that called the female, pale yellow (most probably this was a species of amber). As said before, he classified the gems according to their colour, placing the diamond in the first rank as * Pliny, book xxxvii. cap. iv. 26 Ideas of the Ancients the most precious of all telluric productions ; and it is clear that he was acquainted with the true Indian dia- mond (although he mentions six different sorts), for he described it as resembling rock-crystal in trans- parency, and that the crystals terminated at both ends by a point resembling two pyramids joined together, which description exactly tallies with the octahedral form of the diamond ; the hardness as very great, so as to resist fracture on an anvil, and, in fact, breaking both hammer and anvil before the diamond. He imagines it, however, to become soft if immersed in goat's blood - f and remarks that small pieces were used by gem en- gravers, as at the present day. After the diamond he values the pearl, and it is clear that he must have seen several gems in their natural state, as he describes some of the crystals most accurately. He however has clearly copied much from Aristotle, Theophrastus, and Demo- critus, and he mentions many stones which are either unknown to us, or are called by different names. He declaims against the extravagance of the age, and es- pecially against the fashion of jewelled drinking-cups. In the buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, rings have been found with devices engraved on green jasper and chalcedony. Juba, king of Mauritania, was said to have had a statue, four cubits long, made of one single piece of chrysolite, which he presented to Arsinoe, the wife of Ptolemy. The Romans, when they conquered Greece and Respecting Precious Gem*. 27 Egypt, took home this taste with them, and carried it to a stupendous pitch, the pa-tricians vying with each other in extravagance. Lucan mentions the meeting of Caesar and Cleopatra in a hall of tortoise-shell, studded with emeralds and topaz. Cleopatra is said to have dis- solved a pearl of the value of 150,000 aureos, or golden crowns, in vinegar, in the presence of Antony, and to have drunk it off: this however is untrue, as it would require a very much stronger acid, and a larger quantity than any one could take with impunity, to dissolve a pearl of that magnitude. Caesar is said to have paid- a sum equal to fifty thousand pounds sterling for a single pearl. The fellow drop to the pendant destroyed by Cleopatra, was sawn in two by command of the Em- peror Augustus, and used to adorn the statue of Venus. As we approach the later periods of Roman history, we find numberless instances of the appreciation in which jewels were held. In the time of the Ptolemies, they were used in profusion for ornamenting arms, drinking cups, and even the altars of the gods. A poem by Dionysius Periegetes contains several allusions to precious stones, the asterios, the lustre of which is like a star, the lychnis, of the colour of fire, the ame- thyst, with a tint like purple, are all mentioned. Cali- gula adorned his horse with a collar of pearls, the shoes of Heliogabalus were studded with gems, and the statues of the gods had eyes of precious stones, a custom which was clearly derived from the East ; even in later days one of the largest diamond? in the 28 Ideas oj trie Ancients Russian treasury is known to have formed the eye of an idol of an Eastern temple, and was stolen by a European, who had become a priest of the shrine. A particular stone was supposed to be sacred to each month, and they were called zodiac stones ; they were all set together in an ornament called an amulet, so as to be sure to have the one in connection with, or corresponding to the particular sign or month of the year. The order is as follows : January . . . Aquarius . Jacinth, or Garnet. February . . . Pisces . . Amethyst. March . . . Aries . . . Bloodstone. April . . . . Taurus . . Sapphire. May . . . . Gemini . . . Agate. June . . Cancer . . . Emerald. July . . . .Leo ... . Onyx. August . Virgo . . . Cornelian. September . Libra . . . Chrysolite. October . . Scorpio . . Aquamarine. November . Sagittarius . Topaz. December . Capricorn . Ruby. This superstition is evidently connected .with the twelve stones in the breastplate of the High- Priest, and even still exists. The Jews had a tradition, that when, on the day of atonement, the High-Priest asked the Almighty forgiveness for the sins of the whole nation, if they were forgiven, the stones in the Urim and Thummim shone most brightly ; if the contrary, they became black. Gems were also supposed to indicate Respecting Precious Gems. 2,9 the state of health of the donor or possessor. If they became dull, he was conjectured to be unwell or in danger j and their becoming opaque or colourless would give rise to the most dismal forebodings. The turquoise was conceived to have an affinity with its possessor or master, and to change in colour as his state of health altered. The fact that some turquoises do change their colour may have given rise to this superstition; the real cause of their variation seems to arise from the dif- ference of temperature and state of the weather. The knowledge of the properties of gems common to writers of the Middle Ages, differs but little from that possessed by Pliny and Aristotle, and they seem to have copied very generally from each other. Marbodus, Boetius, Cardanus, and Rhave adopted the statements of Pliny in many instances ; and in a book written by Thomas Nicolls, published at Cambridge in the year 1652, the statements of Pliny and Theophrastus about the dia- mond are quoted as being perfectly true. Albertus Magnus, Langius, Cardanus, Boetius, and others have written at length on this subject, and their speculations as to the origin of gems, and their super- natural effects, are most arousing. Serapius ascribes to the diamond the power of driving away lemures, in- cubes, and succubos, and of making men courageous and magnanimous; and says that if the gem is placed with a loadstone, it nullifies its power. According to Boetius, in his work 'De Natura Gem- marum,' the ruby is a sovereign remedy against the plague 30 Ideas of the Ancients and poison ; it also drives away evil spirits and bad dreams. The jacinth, if worn on the finger, procures sleep, and brings riches, honour, and wisdom. The amethyst dis- pels drunkenness, and sharpens the wit. He says of the balas-ruby, that it restrains passion and fiery wrath, and is a preservative from lightning ; of the emerald, that it discovered false witnesses by suffering alteration when it met with such persons , of the sapphire, that it procured favour with princes, and freed from en- chantments. The chrysolite was said to cool boiling water and assuage wrath, and if placed in contact with poison, it lost its brilliancy until removed. Boetius supposed gems to be generated by the power- ful working of lapidific spirits, and augmented by the acquisition of new matter, and the pearl to be formed of the morning dew drunk in by shell-fish. Certain stones were also supposed to symbolize the Twelve Apostles : Peter is represented by the Jasper Andrew Sapphire. James Chalcedony. John Emerald. Bartholomew . Cornelian. Matthew . Chrysolite. Thomas . Beryl. Thaddeus .... . Chrysoprase. James the Lesser . . Topaz. Simeon . Jacinth. Matthias .... . Amethyst. Respecting Precious Gems. 31 If these and similar superstitious notions are to be found in the works of the most learned of their time, it is not marvellous that the most extravagant and ab- surd notions should have prevailed amongst the ig- norant. The art of cutting gems was in its infancy until a late period, and was confined to a very few, and their use for personal adornment was limited to kings and princes, who prized them more for the superstitious uses attri- buted to them than for aught else. The first authentic account of the jewels existing in India is given by Tavernier, who made several journeys to the East, and who, when speaking of what he saw himself, is trust- worthy ; but when he relates what was told him, falls into numberless exaggerations. His account of the gems he saw in his travels through Hindostan and the East affords great insight into the production and esti- mation of precious stones in his time. Some gems were also used for medical purposes pow- dered, and were supposed sovereign in their effects ; even now immense quantities of seed-pearl are used in China and the East for various purposes. In a curious medical work by Antonius Musa Brassarobus, lapis lazuli is prescribed as a laxative. Camillus Leonardus, of Pisa, prescribes coral in powder for newly-born chil- dren. Further on, in the notes at foot of the descrip- tion of lapis, coral, etc., several of tnese prescriptions are transcribed. The natives of India imagine that when diamond- 3 2 Ideas of the Ancients powder is taken into the mouth, it causes the teeth to fall out, and that it acts as a preservative against light- ning. Some stones are also supposed to give light in the dark. The Vedas of the Brahmins speak of a place lighted by rubies and diamonds, which emit light like that of the planets. When chemistry however began to be understood, the ideas which had been handed down by tradition, and by the works of ancient authors, were proved erroneous, and the clouds which hung over the subject were dis- pelled by the analysis and classification of gems, accord- ing to their composition, hardness, etc. The old system of classing all stones of similar colour together was abandoned, and latterly immense light has been cast, on the subject of the formation of precious stones by the researches of learned chemists and mineralogists. But although science has advanced with giant strides, and our means of knowledge are far more extended than those of our ancestors, we have still much to learn on this subject, and perhaps may find that future re- searches may prove our notions as unsound and our theories as erroneous as those entertained by our fore- fathers. ON THE PRECIOUS STONES MENTIONED IN THE BIBLE. BRIEF sketch of the knowledge which the Semitic nations possessed of the pre- cious stones, may not be out of place in the present volume. A full and exhaustive treatment is not within the scope of this work ; nor is it possible, as yet, to offer complete infor- mation, since Oriental scholars have not sufficiently occupied themselves with this subject, which might help to throw light on the state of ancient civilization, on the intercourse between various nations, and on the mechanical and artistic knowledge cultivated in the remote regions of the East. The very names of the precious stones, if studied by the aid of those languages which were once spoken in the vast tracts of country situated between the 3^ The Precious Stones Ganges and the Nile, would assist in lifting the veil which now conceals from our view the intercourse and connection of die bygone Eastern races. Should the present remarks have die effect of inducing any scholar to pursue this inquiry, die result of his investigations might prove interesting, and perhaps useful. A small treasury of useful information is disclosed to us in several parts of the Bible. Precious stones, ac- cording to this ancient record, were not in die posses- sion of the majority of the opulent classes j amongst die contributors of die materials towards die erection of die Tabernacle, die chiefs of die Twelve Tribes alone are mentioned as supplying the " shoham stones, and die stones to be set" (Exodus xxxv. 27). We find die most important enumeration of the pre- cious stones known to die ancient Hebrews in Exodus xxviii., verses 17 to 20 ; and die same list is repeated in tJbat book, chapter xxxix., verses 10 to 13. It de- serves to be noticed that, with die exception of three precious stones, die gems worn by the High-Priest on his breastplate were also to be found among the royal ornaments worn by the king of Tyre. (See Ezekiel xxviii. 13.) These stones are enumerated in the ac- companying Table, Nos. 112, with their renderings in several Semitic languages, in Greek, Latin, etc. It will be observed in diis Table that die Hebrew terms are variously interpreted in die several ancient versions, and it would appear that die translators had in many instances lost die chain of trustworthy tradi- Mentioned in the Bible. 35 tion, and were obliged to resort to conjecture. The copyists of these versions have, moreover, added their share of errors; the differences between them and the authorized version are suggestive, and merit investiga- tion. On the following pages is given the " Table of Comparative Translations " alluded to : The Precious Stones TABLE OF COMPARATIVE TRANSLATIONS FROM THE MENTIONED IN. THE BIBLE AS (The words in small letters are the literal translations of the words in their 4 Hebrew. Authorized version. Vulgate. Greek. Chaldean. Tarpum or paraphrase of Onkelos. Odem Red Sardius Sardius Sardion Samkan Red. 2 Pitdah Topaz Topazius Topazion Jarkan Green. 3 Bareketh Flashing Carbuncle Smaragdus Smaragdos Barkan Brilliant. 4 Nopbek Emerald Carbunculus Anthrax Ismaragdar Emerald. 5 Sappir Sapphire Sapphirus Sapphires Shabzez 6 Jahalom Diamond Onychius Onychion Sibhalorn 7 Leshem Ligure Ligurius Ligynon Kankera 8 Shebo Agate Achates Achates Tarkja Turquoise. 9 Achlamah Amethyst Amethistus Amethistos En Egla Calfs-eye. 10 Tharshish Beryl Chrysolithus Chrysolithos KrumYama Sea colour. ii Shoham Onyx Beryllus Beryllion Burla Beryl. 12 Jashpeh Jasper ' Jaspis ' 1 Jaspis Panthireli Panther. Mentioned in the Bible. 37 ORIGINAL HEBREW OF THE TWELVE STONES WORN BY THE HIGH-PRIEST. respective languages, where the names have any peculiar signification.) Chaldean. Targum or paraphrase of Jonathan ben Uiziel. Chaldean. Targum Jeru- shalrai, or Jeru- salem para- phrase. Syriac. Arabic. Arabic ver- sion. Semuktha Red. Jarketha Green. Samketha Red. Jarketha Green. Sumoko Red. Sorgo Jakuth Achmar Red Hyacinth. Azphar Yellow. Achmar Red. Azphar Yellow. Barketha Brilliant. Barketha Brilliant. Borko Samurod Achzar Green. Esmorad Kadkedana Carbuncle. Zadiro Cochli Somurod Emerald. Sapirinon Sapphire. Simbulina Sapphire. Saphilo Maha al- Ballur Saha Kadkodin Carbuncle. En Egla CalfVeye. Neketho Bahran^an Firusg Kankennon Zozin Konkenun Gasa Gasg Onyx. Tarkin Turquoise. Birulin Beryl. Karkedno Carbuncle. Sebh Saych En Egla Calf's-eye. Samaragdin Emerald. En Eglo Calfs-eye. Firusag Bahraman Krum Yama Rabba Colour of the Great Sea. Beruluth-chala Sand beryl ECrumYama Sea colour. Beroltha Beryl. Thorshish Berulo Beryl. Asrak Ballur Crystal. Sorak Ballur Crystal. Margniath apanturin. Panther gem. Marglitha Gem or pearl. Jashpeh Jasper. Jashaph Jasper. Jashm Jasper. THE STONES IN THE BREAST-PLATE OF THE HIGH-PRIEST. HE following description of the various gems mentioned in the Bible is extracted from the Talmud and several Rabbinical commentators, and may be interesting as an evidence of the amount of knowledge of this subject that was then current : i. ODEM. (Authorized Versvm> SARDIUS.) The Hebrew word odem, like the Arabic akik, is capable of denoting the cornelian, the ruby, or any other precious stone of red hue. Among the Hebrews and Arabs, the cornelian was considered an important prophylactic ; the former ascribed to it the virtue of pre- serving life from the dangers of the plague 5 the latter Breast-Plate of High- Priest. 39 even now, according to Niebuhr, continue to employ it as an efficient agent in stopping haemorrhage. Hebrew legends state that the blushing ruby became the sym- bolical representative of Reuben, who brought a blush upon himself by irreverent conduct to his father. 2. PITDAH. {Authorized Persian, TOPAZ.) This scone derives its name (topaz) from the island Topazion, which was supposed to be situated in the Red Sea. There are two kinds of topazes ; the su- perior is gold-coloured, the other inclines to a greenish yellow. The second species was called chrysoprase, a name which indicates the blending of gold and leek colour. In allusion to the latter colour, this stone is called in the Chaldean dialect jarkan (green), which is the equivalent of prase. 3. BAREKETH. (Authorized Version, CARBUNCLE.) Bareketh, literally "flashing stone j" this name being apparently derived from "barak," lightning. Eastern legends assert that a carbuncle was suspended in the Ark of Noah to diffuse light. The word bareketh has been translated by the Greek word "keraunos," aerolite literally, thunder-stone. Some authors state that it resembles the crystal in transparency, and drops from the clouds amidst the flashes of lightning. The same myth is also applied to the origin of the diamond. 4-O The Stones m the Breast- Plate 4. NoPHEK. (Authorized Persum, EMERALD.) The Hebrew name signifies "carbuncle," or the stone which shines with the brilliancy of a glowing coal. This stone belongs to a class which is divided into va- rious species. The most esteemed are the Indian and Garamantine carbuncles ; the latter term has given use to the modern name of garnet : the same gem was also called the Chalcedonian. The Ethiopian car- buncles rank very high, and are nearly connected with the almandine and the essonite. Carbuncles of superior brilliancy are termed males, those of a duller description are called females, a distinction which, among ancient lapidaries, prevailed in reference to the majority of precious stones. One author observes, that the carbuncle at first appears as if smoke were rising from it, and afterwards, as if burning with a bright flame, and that the Chalcedonian inclines to blackness, but when held against fire or the light of the sun, it surpasses in lustre all other carbuncles ; when placed in a dark room, it presents a rose-colour, but when exposed to the open daylight, it glows like a burning coal; when held against the sun, it has the lustre of a flame. 5. SAPPIR. (Authorized Persian, SAPPHIRE.) This stone is frequently mentioned in the Bible as being of great value and exquisite beauty. Legendary of the Higk-Pnest. 41 traditions assert that the Tables on which the Ten Commandments were engraved were made of sap- phire. The superstitious assigned to this stone the virtue of preserving the sight, and invigorating the frame as well as the soul. 6. JAHALOM. (Authorized Persian, DIAMOND.) The Hebrew term Jahalom is said to be derived from the verb " halam," to strike, and is applied to the dia- mond to describe the superior hardness of this gem, which can be employed in cutting other precious stones. For a long time the diamond was only known to some Eastern kings, and an opinion prevailed that it could only be found in gold-mines. The fact how- ever is, that it is discovered in many places yielding the crystal, to which it bears an affinity. There are six kinds of diamonds, viz. the Ethiopian, the Indian, the Arabian, the Macedonian, the Cyprian, and the Siderite, which resembles polished steel. The last two kinds are brittle, the others are exceedingly hard ; they resist the ordinary blow of the hammer, and the heat of the fire. One author mentions the following ludicrous anecdote : "A noble lady inherited two dia- monds, which for many years remained hidden among her treasures ; from time to time these stones gave birth to indisputable facsimiles and likenesses of them- selves." He accounts for this strange phenomenon by stating that the peculiarly pure atmosphere which 42 The Stones in the Breast-Plate must have surrounded the gems facilitated the forma- tion of the generated crystals ! 7. LESHEM. (duthonzed Version, LIGURE.) Some authors translate this as turquoise, which, in ancient times, was considered of inestimable value, and was imported from the East Indies. An inferior description, of dark green colour, was found in Spain, and was sold at a very low price. The following anecdote, quoted from an old treatise on precious stones, illustrates the peculiar value which this class of gems derived from superstition : " One of my relatives possessed a turquoise set in a gold ring, which he used to wear on his finger as a superior ornament. It happened that the owner of this ring was seized with a malady of which he died. During the whole period in which the wearer enjoyed his full health, the turquoise was distinguished for unparelleled beauty and clearness; but scarcely was he dead, when the stone lost its lustre, and assumed a faded, withered appearance, as if mourning for its master. This sudden change in the nature of the stone made me lose the desire I originally entertained of purchasing it, which I might have done for a trifling sum ; and so the turquoise passed into other hands. However, no sooner did it obtain a new owner, when it regained its former exquisite freshness, and lost all traces of its temporary defects. I felt, greatly vexed of the High-Priest. 43 that I had lost the chance of procuring such a valuable and sensitive gem." 8. SHEBO. (Authorized Version, AGATE.) The Rabbins translated this word by hyacinth. The hyacinth and the amethyst are somewhat alike in colour ; the latter approaches more the tint of the violet, the former is of a paler description, and inclines to sky-blue." There are three kinds of hya- cinths ; one has the glowing hue of a burning coal : this kind is of the highest value. 9. ACHLAMAH. (Authorized Fersion, AMETHYST.) Rabbinical authors consider Achlamah to signify onyx, and they state that it is classified either according to colour, or according to the place whence it is exported. In regard to colour, the onyx occurs in five varieties : the first, which is white, resembles the human nail, for which reason, in fact, it has received the Greek name onyx (owf, naif) ; this variety is not marked by any stripes, whilst the second kind is white striped with red, the third is white striped with black, the fourth is all black without stripes, and the fifth, the most va- luable of all, is black with white stripes. Mediaeval writers have sought to find a Scriptural basis for cur- rent superstitions, by connecting " achlamah " (onyx) with the verb " chalam," to dream, and assert that this 44 7%e Stones in the Breast-Plate precious stone occasioned to the wearer a multiplicity of bewildering dreams. 10. THARSHISH. (Authorised Version, BERYL.) The commonly received rendering of " Tharshish " is " chrysolite." Four species of this stone are men- tioned, which respectively came from Arabia, Ger- many, India, and Ethiopia. The colour of the Ara- bian species was not clear and transparent. The German chrysolite was of whitish hue, bordering on orange colour, and peculiarly brittle. The Indian chrysolite had a slight cerulean tinge ; in some in- stances it resembled translucent olive oil, in others it was a kind of sea-green, intermixed with a reddish shade. The Ethiopian chrysolite was soft green, and reflected the sunlight, glistening like a golden star. The latter two species were most esteemed. ii. SHOHAM. (Authorized Version, ONYX.) The Rabbins translate this by "emerald," and assign to it the third rank among precious stones. They say that the pleasure derived from looking at the emerald is due to the refreshing influence exercised by the green colour, this stone bearing the nearest resemblance to the luxuriant verdure of the fields and trees. Engravers and workers in precious stones, according to these writers, place this stone before them of the High-Priest. 45 to rest their eyesight upon whilst engraving minute ob- jects. There are twelve kinds of emeralds, if classed according to the countries where they are found, viz. the Siberian, Britannic, Egyptian, Cyprian, Ethiopian, Armenian, Persian, Athenian, Median, Chalcedoman, Laconian, and Sicilian. The first-mentioned variety surpasses the rest in value, is of greater hardness, and not liable to the pecu- liar defects which are found in the others ; moreover, this kind is found in the rugged, mountainous tracts amongst the gold mines, and is excavated by dint of excessive and painful toil. The griffin is said to build there its nest, and to be zealously watchful in guard- ing the treasures of gold and emeralds. Others assert that this gem originates in copper mines, where ver- digris is formed. Fine emeralds are of a perfect green, which seems to flash upon the surrounding objects ; in a good gem, the surface must be perfectly straight and smooth, so as to cast no darkening shade on any of its particles. 12. JASHPEH. (Authorized Persian, JASPER.) It is most probable that this stone became known through the extensive use which was made of it by artists for ornamental and commemorative works, such as cameos, etc. The name of "Jashpeh" (in Greek, jaspis) must have travelled along with the wide distri- bution of this stone, which so readily yields to the 4 6 The Stones in the Breast-Plate engraver's burine. If it could be ascertained whether "jashpeh" was first so named by the Semitic nations, or whether the Grecians were the first to adopt the name of jaspis, -we might be able to decide in what country this stone was first applied to the purposes of ornamental art. According to tradition, the "jashpeh " in the breastplate represents the name of "Benjamin." The following anecdote, extracted from the Tal- mud, enables us to form some idea of the value in which this stone was held in the rabbinical period. It is related that during the existence of the second temple, the "jashpeh of Benjamin" was lost. Great exertions were made to replace it, and at last it was ascertained that Dama ben Nethinah was in possession of a fine specimen. The price ultimately paid for it : s stated to have been one hundred denarii (100 gold denars were in value equal to about sS6o). In addition to the twelve stones contained in the breastplate of the High-Priest, the following names occur in various parts of the Bible : Kadkod and Ekdoch (Isaiah, liv. 12), both of which signify the glowing of fire, are, not inappropriately, translated "carbuncle ;" the Alexandrian version of the Bible renders the former word by "jasper." Ramoth, mentioned in Ezekiel (xxvii. 16) and Job (xxviii. 18), is of doubtful meaning, and supposed to signify "coral. of the High-Priest. 47 Gaidsh, or Elgabish, occurring in the just-mentioned passage of Job, means in its primary signification " hail-stone," and hence is applied to the crystal ; ac- cording to the Chaldean paraphrase it denotes "beryl." Shamir (diamond). The passage in Ezekiel (iii. 9), " as an adamant, harder than flint," etc., confirms the supposition that shamir means diamond. Tradition as- serts that the stones which were used in the construc- tion of the temple of Solomon, were hewn by means of the " shamir," as the law of Moses prohibited the use of iron implements. It must, however, be observed that, in this instance, the word " shamir " has been in terpreted by commentators as relating to a miraculous worm, which, being placed on the stone, performed the wonder of cleaving it in those parts which had been previously marked THE DIAMOND. Ciystals of Diamond. HE diamond is the glorious gem which surpasses all others in hardness and bril- liancy. Its specific gravity is about 3 '5, its cleavage very perfect, its refraction sim- ple ; it is transparent and translucent, combustible, infu- sible, and unassailable by acids, and is composed of pure crystallized carbon. It frequently becomes phosphores- cent on exposure to light ; the smaller stones by a much The Diamond. 49 shorter exposure than the larger. It is found both in regular crystalline forms and in an amorphous state. The crystals are principally octahedrons or dodecahe- drons, the planes of which have frequently the pecu- liarity of being either concave or convex ; sometimes they are worn by attrition or other causes into hetero- geneous forms, being nearly round balls, occasionally transparent, or covered with a thick crust. The diamond is found of all colours white, yellow, orange, red, pink, brown, green, blue, black, and opalescent. There is a slight difference between the specific gravity of the Indian, or Oriental diamond, and the Brazilian, as also between the white and coloured. The result of numerous experiments is as follows : The Specific Gravity of Indian or Golconda Diamond. White 3-524 Yellow ,?'55<> Brazilian. White 3'44 2 Yellow 3'520 The Indian diamond is generally found in octahe- dral, the Brazilian in dodecahedral, crystals. The diamond is one of those bodies which reflect all the light falling on their posterior surfaces at an angle of incidence greater than 24 13'. The diamond does not appear to possess the power of polarizing light, al- though Sir David Brewster gives it as his opinion, that 50 The Diamond, tight was stightly changed in passing of refraction is enormous* 1-5*5 To these qualities are attributable its extraordinary brilliancy and play, and it was the observation of these properties which led Newton to the conclusion that it was a combustible body, and, later, caused several to endeavour to apply it to optical and It was, however, found by Sir David Brewster, that the inequalities of its sliuctme caused too much aberration of light to make it service- able tor these purposes. It is a non-conductor of electricity, and becomes positively electric by friction - t but soon loses its power, namely, at the expiration of half an hour. The diamond cuts glass with great fecflity, but not every stone can be used tor that purpose. It is required to tmd one whose angles are naturally acute. These stones are called "glaziers," and fetch sio the carat Although most gems will scratch glass, it is only the which is capable of cutting it. Tlie Diamond. 51 pombya^aod.batii exposed to a *ery strong degree of he* (14 Wedg- wood). Although Newton earhr sunnwd the fir* of nt was in 1694, at the Academy of the dukedom of Cosmo IIL, by means of ml burning-glasses, when it first: spot, then sparks, and at la powder. A French lard, howercr, declared that he had diamonds to heat as intense as that which had con the others without injury, and olfcred to submit sealed them hermetically in a day pipe bowl, i after learing them in the fbmace fcr the same omyieaOrbur tion with the oxygen of the air. La oxygen, and olJa^r.1 the ifrom the combustion of pure E 2 52 The Diamond. acid. Another chemist, Clouet, made steel by exposing iron and diamond together, thus proving its identity with other carboniferous bodies, and showed that the diamond burns readily when exposed in the open air, or in gas, to an intense heat, with a bright red flame, and gives out sparks during combustion. As yet, no one has proposed a theory which could account for the formation of the diamond, nor has succeeded in discovering the matters which lend a tinge or colour to the gem. Liebig has given it as his opinion, that it arises from the presence of un- crystallized vegetable matter. The black specks and flaws which so frequently present themselves, would lead to the supposition that they must arise from carbon imperfectly crystallized, and analogous to the amorphous and porous variety, called carbonate, to which I shall allude hereafter ; but this point has never yet been satisfactorily solved. Many chemists and mineralogists have declared, that by means of heat they can expel or improve the natural colour of the diamond ; but experience has shown that this idea is fallacious, for, although the stone when exposed to strong heat appears whiter, this arises solely from a crust being formed on the outside, which impairs the transparency, and when repolished, the original colour returns. Red flaws however, which are sometimes apparent in the rough diamond, do occasionally lose their colour by exposure to great heat ; in other in- stances, the red flaws become black. A gentleman of The Diamond. 53 the name of Barbot is said to have employed for the last ten years a process which he keeps secret, but which, it is said, enables him to remove the opaque crust which covers the diamond in its rough state, sc as to show the colour it will have when cut ; if true, this might render the work of the lapidary more easy, but the fact is much to be doubted. At the great fire in Hamburg, many diamonds were sold for trifling sums which had remained in the burning buildings, and, to an unexperienced eye, appeared totall) valueless, but when repolished they regained their pristine brilliancy, though with a slight loss in weight. The diamond can be cloven with facility in a direc- tion parallel with the planes of the octahedron or dodecahedron, or, to use the lapidaries' expression, "splits easily with the grain." This quality much assists the otherwise tedious operation of cutting or grinding the diamond, particularly where it is desirable to gat rid of flaws. In spite of its hardness, it is capable of being reduced to powder, and the mistaken idea which used to prevail, and even now exists, that the best test of the reality was to put it on an anvil and strike it with a hammer, when, if genuine, it either broke the hammer or buried itself in the anvil, has been the cause of the loss of many fine gems, which were either crushed or thrown away as valueless. The diamond is found in Hindostan, Brazil, Suma tra, Borneo, the Ural Mountains, and occasionally i: North America in some instances in Australia j gene 54 The Diamond. rally in octahedral crystals, in quartz conglomerates containing oxides of iron, also in alluvium, in loose and imbedded crystals, almost always of small size, and most frequently in company with grains of gold and platinum ; ordinarily, in strata of plutonic origin. In India, in the Deccan, in the river Pennair, in the Lower Kistna, and Ellore, and Pannah, and the river Sonar ; and some in the Bundlecund, at Sumbhulpore, on the Mahanuddy; also in Malacca, in Borneo, Celebes, and Java. Numbers of places in India which produced diamonds in large quantities, according to the account of Tavernier, a French jeweller and a trustworthy authority, who travelled in the East, have latterly become so unproductive, that not only the places them- selves, but the very names are unknown to the present inhabitants ; and India, which used to be the great source of diamonds, seems to have become gradually exhausted. In Tavernier's time, the mines of Golconda employed 60,000 persons, and were once so produc- tive, that it is recorded by the historian Ferichta, that the Sultan Mahmoud (A.D. 1177-1206) left in his trea- sures, after a reign of thirty-two years, more than four hundred pounds weight of this precious gem. The use of the diamond used to be one of the regal privileges of the Hindoo rajahs and sultans, but with the overthrow of Indian kingdoms and dynasties it became more ge- nerally worn. The finest diamond which remained in the possession of the Mahratta of Peshawur was that called by the East India Company the Nassak, which The Diamond. 55 they valued at the sum of gg 30,000 ; it was however sold by auction at Messrs. Christy and Manson's rooms to the Marquis of Westminster, for the sum of ^"7200, since which time this fine diamond has been re-cut. (See description of the Nassac or Nassak diamond.) It is a curious fact, that in Sumbhulpore the diamond- washing trade is hereditary in two tribes, whose origin is unknown, but who appear, from the traces of negro blood, to be descendants of slaves imported by one of the conquerors of India for that labour ; they are called re- spectively Thara and Tora, and possess sixteen villages in free Jhageer, or freehold ; they now number about 400 to 500 persons, working in the dry season in the bed of the Mahanuddy, from Kunderpore to Sinepore. The largest diamond found there, since the transfer of this country from the Mahratta to British rule, has been of eighty-four grains. The quality of the diamonds is here distinguished by the names of the Hindoo castes. The first quality is called Brahma, the second Kschetri, the third Bysch, the fourth Sudras. The weights used are the mascha and the ruttee; the mascha consists of seven ruttees, and the ruttee is something less than 2^ grains carat weight. In the Bundlecund, the finest diamonds are called Motigul ; the second quality, greenish, Manek ; the third, yellowish, Pannah ; the fourth, brownish, Buns- put. The origin of the carat weight is from an Arabic word, "kuara," the name of the seed of a pod-bearing plant growing on the gold-coast of Africa, which 56 The Diamond. are almost invariably of an equal weight, and were for- merly used for weighing against the grains or dust of gold. This weight was adopted in Hindostan, and has thence spread all over the world. The Indians call the diamond " pakha," or ripe, and rock-crystal "kacha," or unripe. The Indian diamond is of a different specific gravity to the Brazilian, and even when only of equal white- ness, seems to possess more lustre and brilliancy ; from this and other causes, the old diamonds, which all came from India, are worth rather more than the new, or Brazilian. By far the largest quantity are, however, now im- ported into Europe from the Brazils. They are found mostly in alluvial soil in the district of Cerro di Fria, Minas Geraes, and San Paulo ; in the beds of the rivers Jequitinhonha, Matto-Grosso, Diamantma, and Rio des Areios, Santa Anna, San Francisco, Paulo Vehas, San Francisco di Xavier, Rio Sumedouro, Bahia, and other places. The Brazilian miners distinguish the various diamond- producing soils by the following names :- - Grupiara is an alluvial deposit, whose surface shows it to be the unused bed of a stream or river. Burgalhao are small angular fragments of rock, be- strewing the surface of the ground. Cascalho are fragments of rock and sand mixed up with clay, and forming the bed of a river. Takoa Carza are the above materials cemented to- AUSTRIAN YELLOW BRILLI THE SHAH THE HOPE BLUE DIAMOND THE POLAR STAR THE 3J'/, The Diamond. 57 gather into a conglomerate mass. All the above, how- ever, are known by the generic name of Cascalho. The masses of stone themselves, which rarely exceed a cubic foot in size, contain Itacolumite jasper, and often peri- dots and garnets. The Itambe, the highest mountain in the diamond-producing district, giving rise to the rivers Copay and Jequitinhonha, is about 5598 feet above the level of the sea, and diamonds are sometimes found on its highest peaks. Diamonds were found in the Brazils when searching for gold, but their true nature was unsuspected, and they were thrown away or used as counters for card-players. Bernardo Fonseca Lobo, an inhabitant of the Minas Geraes, who had seen rough diamonds in a previous visit to the East Indies, first discovered their true nature and value. He brought some to Lisbon, and esta- blished their identity with diamonds. The European traders, who had never seen or dreamt of any other but the Indian diamond, and who feared that if an in- finite number were thrown on the market by this dis- covery of new mines, their stocks would thus be depre- ciated, and perhaps become valueless, endeavoured by every means to discourage their sale, and spread a report that the so-called Brazilian diamonds were only the refuse of the Indian mines, exported from Goa to Brazil, and thence to Europe ;* and at first succeeded in preventing the sale. The Portuguese merchants, how- * In the work published by David Jeffries, A.D. 1750 he in- dorses this belief, and endeavours to prove it by several arguments. 58 The Diamond. ever, turned the tables on them by exporting them from Brazil to Goa, and then offering them for sale as Indian diamonds. On the inhabitants of the diamond-producing dis- tricts this discovery acted as a curse, for as soon as the government found the valuable nature of the product, and of the treasures it had in its grasp, it took forcible possession of the land, expelled the original inhabitants, and declared the diamond trade a monopoly, and them- selves the exclusive proprietors. Nature even seemed to have a spite against the expatriated exiles; the year of the discovery the whole district was afflicted with a dreadful drought, and, to add to the distress and misery of the unfortunate inhabitants, a fearful earth- quake took place, in which numbers of them perished ; and it was only on the I3th of May, 1803, that the sad remnant was reinstated in their rightful property. It seemed as if the genii, guardians of the treasure, were indignant at the presumption of man, and tried by every means to prevent the dispersion of their buried treasures. The riches of these places are incalculable; the gold is abandoned to the slaves as unworthy the attention of their owners. Children, after the rains, collect the grains of gold, which lie strewn over their path. The crops of all fowls killed are carefully examined, and often found to contain diamonds; and it is recorded that a negro once found a stone of five carats adhering to the roots of a cabbage he had plucked for his dinner. The Diamond. 59 In 1 754, a slave, who had been working at the Minas Geraes, was transferred to the district of Bahia. Sus- pecting, from the similarity of the soil with that of the place he had been working/ that it contained dia- monds, he searched and found a considerable quantity. This news soon became public, and the province was inundated with emigrants trying to make rapid for- tunes in the same way as the tide of population 'flowed to Australia when the news of the gold discoveries arrived here. The production of the Brazilian mines has been enormous, but has decreased, and is decreasing, every day ; in the first fifty years after their discovery, it is cal- culated that the astonishing amount of twelve millions in value was exported. The yield from the Bahia mines was at first so considerable, as to reduce the value of the diamond one-half; now, however, the total produce does not exceed 240,000 carats annually, the value of which is about 1,000,000. The most productive district is at the present time the province of Matto-Grosso, in the vicinity of the town of Dia- mantina. A short description of the mode of washing for dia- monds may not prove uninteresting. When the dry sea- son, which lasts from April to the middle of October, has diminished the depth of the different rivers, their waters are diverted in various places into canals dug for this purpose, so as to leave the bed of the stream dry. The soil is then dug out to a depth of ten to 60 The Diamond. twelve feet, and deposited near the washing-huts. As long as the dry season lasts, the workmen continue to dig out the soil, called there by the generic name of cascalho ; and it contains diamonds in so regular a pro- portion, that the miners are enabled to foretell, with some degree of certainty, what any given quantity of cascalho will produce. Sometimes they find holes con- *aining quantities of diamonds and nuggets of gold. The dry season over, the labour of washing com- mences, and the digging of the soil perforce terminates, in consequence of the quantities of water brought down by the rains. The huts, which are constructed near the heaps of cascalho, are furnished with long troughs, called canoes, with elevated seats for the overseers, who are always present. The labourers, who are all negroes, take each a mass of " diamondiferous " soil, sufficient to fill the trough (about a hundredweight), and then allow a stream of water to run in ; and continue to stir up the mass with the hands, until the water runs clear, and all the earthy particles are washed away. They then examine the pebbles which remain one by one, and when they find a diamond, give the signal by clapping their hands to the overseer, who takes it and puts it in a vessel filled with water, which hangs in the middle of each hut. The day's labour over, the weight produced is entered in a book. Large diamonds, as may be supposed, are of very rare occurrence. When a slave finds a diamond of eighteen carats he receives his freedom, and is led. The Diamond. 61 crowned with flowers, to the proprietor in a sort of triumphal procession, who generally gives him a present and allows him to work on his own account. For smaller stones proportional rewards are given. In spite of all precaution, numberless thefts take place; sometimes the slave, under the very eye of the over- seer, conceals a stone in his hair, mouth, or ears, some- times between his fingers or toes; and they have even been known to throw stones away in the hope of find- ing them again after night-fall. When the labour and pains bestowed on this search is considered, the result appears hardly commensurate with the toil: the product of the yearly labour of 500 men can be readily carried in the hand. As pre- viously stated, the discovery of large diamonds is very rare. On an average of 10,000 stones, there will not be one of eighteen carats found. The largest which has ever been found in the Brazils is the Star of the South, which, when rough, weighed 254 carats. When a sufficient quantity has been collected, the diamonds are sent to Rio Janeiro ; and as the distance is great, and the roads, lie through endless primeval forests, the transit occupies a considerable period. In Rio, the miner sells his gems to the merchant, who ships them to Europe, or holds them, as the price and demand may induce him to act. Diamonds are also found in Borneo, in the mountain- chain which, borders the great river Banger, massing in rhe district of Jannah-L.iut. Here, as in other places, 6 2 Carbonate, or Diamond Carbon. they are accompanied by grains of gold. These mines employ some 400 persons, and the search is conducted in much the same manner as in other places. Diamonds are also found in Sumatra, Java, and in the Ural Mountains. Crystals of diamond have been found in Australia, but as yet of too isolated occurrence to warrant Australia being classed as a diamond-producing country. When parcels of rough diamonds arrive here, they are sorted by an experienced person, and the various qua- lities separated. The stones that have a natural point, and which can be used for cutting glass, are first se- lected, and the badly-shaped and defective pieces are sent to be manufactured into roses ; the worst quality, called " boart " granular and imperfectly crystallized, and not infrequently worn by attrition into spherical globules, being quite unfit for cutting is crushed into powder and used for cutting and polishing other dia- monds, rubies, etc., and for engraving on hard stones, or other purposes. The "boart " is worth from 22.9. to 30$. per carat. CARBONATE, OR DIAMOND CARBON. The substance called carbonate is found in the pro- vince of Bahia, and occurs, according to all accounts, in sandstone of very old formation, apparently of the same era as the gneiss and syenite rocks of Norway and Greenland. Its hardness is identical with the diamond, and its specific gravity 3-012 to 3'4i6; some Diamond Cutting and Polisking. 63 specimens show an imperfect crystalline structure of a brownish-green opaque colour, others of a granular structure, porous enough to resemble pumice-stone, dense, very massive, and found sometimes in lumps as large as a walnut. It is extremely hard, in some cases, taking a polish equal to diamond, and appears to be carbon imperfectly crystallized ; when burnt it leaves a residue of clay and some other substances. It is used in commerce in the form of powder to cut and polish diamonds and other gems, and is worth a few shillings per carat, according to the demand. Large quantities are exported to Switzerland for polishing rubies used in jewelling watches. It is said that specimens of this substance have lately been discovered in Mexico. When carbonate was first discovered, it might have been purchased for a mere trifle ; but now, as stcted above, it commands a large price, which continues to increase with the demand. This substance would appear to be the connecting link between uncrystallized carbon and die diamond, and a scientific examination of it might lead to impor- tant results. DIAMOND CUTTING AND POLISHING. The transcendent brilliancy of the diamond, its trans- parency and its refraction, are displayed very meagrely in rough stones. In order to render them susceptible of employment as personal ornaments, they must un- dergo the processes of cutting and polishing, which brng 64 Diantond Cutting and Polishing. out the latent beauty in its true light j and, in fact, on the regularity of the facets and the perfect polish de- pends the value of the stone, nearly as much as on the original material ; for, although no art can render a yellow brilliant white, still the purest stone, cut by un- skilful hands, remains a dull mass, without life or lustre. It is generally supposed that Louis van Berghem, or Berguem, was the first discoverer of the art of cutting and polishing diamonds by their own powder, in 1456 ; but this must be somewhat inaccurate, as already in 1373 the Emperor Charles had the clasp of his cloak ornamented with diamonds ; and in church ornaments of even earlier date, were set diamonds with a table and four ground edges, and with the lower part cut as a four-sided pyramid. In the inventory of the effects of the Duke of Anjou, made between the years 1360 and 1368, there is men- tioned a diamond cut into the form of a shield. As yet, however, the mode of cutting was rude, and added scarcely at all to the lustre of the diamond, causing it to be ranked as less in value than many other gems. In 1407, the art had made sensible progress under the direction of a clever artificer named Herman ; and al- though the stones were still imperfectly cut, yet they must have had some lustre, as we find, that at an enter- tainment given to the King of France by the Duke of Burgundy, in 1410, the Duke of Burgundy gave away ten diamonds, which were valued at four hundred gold crowns, a considerable sum in those days. NASSAC DIAMOND 89 J /* &* DRESDEN GREEN BRILLIANT THE FLORENTINE BRILLIANT SIDE VIEW Diamond Cutting and Polishing. 65 In 1456, Louis van Berghem, who had studied in Paris, discovered the art of cutting the diamond into regular facets ; this discovery made so complete a revo- lution in the trade, that he was regarded as the parent of the art of diamond cutting, and he established in Bruges a guild of diamond cutters. In the year 1475 he made the first trial of his improved mode of cutting upon three large rough stones which were confided to his care by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. The largest was the stone known as the Sancy, which was lost in the disastrous fight of Granson ; the second came into the possession of Pope Sixtus IV. ; and the third, which was cut in the form of a triangle, was set in a ring, and was given to the faithless Louis XI. Robert van Berghem relates that his grandfather Louis received 3000 ducats for cutting these three stones. The pupils of Berghem established themselves in Antwerp and Amsterdam, leaving Bruges on account of the intole- rance of the priests. Cardinal Mazarin patronized this industry greatly ; he caused the diamonds in the French crown to be re-cut, and they obtained thence the name of the twelve Mazarins. In the inventory of the French Crown jewels in 1774, the number 349 is described as the tenth Mazarin 'it is not known what has become of the rest. The powerful protection of the Cardinal, and his example, caused a taste for these jewels to pervade all classes: and it is recorded that at this period Paris possessed seventy-five diamond cutters, who were well r 66 Diamond Cutting arid Polishing. employed. Later, however, the trade declined, and from this date it seems gradually to have taken firm root in Amsterdam, where it still continues one of the prin- cipal branches of industry, and more than fifteen-six- teenths of die diamonds found are now cut there. The so-called double cutting, " Brillants recoupes," was introduced by Vincent! Peruggi, or Peruzzi, at Venice, about the end of the seventeenth century. In England there used to be several cutters, who were re- nowned for the excellence and perfection of their work, and whose diamonds, still called old English, fetch a much larger price than any others. As in everything else, however, the reduction of the price of labour pro- duced a corresponding falling off in the quality of work- manship. This trade in England is now nearly extinct. In India, where numbers of diamonds are still cut, the work is rough and defective, as the natives, with the mistaken idea of enhancing the value of their gems, leave them as heavy in weight as possible} often preserving the natural shape of the stone, and disregarding one of the first rules of diamond cutting, that over- as well as under-weight detracts from the value of the stone ; and ignoring the fact, that a dia- mond weighing, for example, seven carats, with only the spread of five carats, is worth only the price of a five- carat stone. Of late years, the lapidaries have adopted a very in- judicious method of cutting, leaving the stone, from the girdle to the culet, round, instead of angular, thus de- Diamond Cutting. . 67 tractmg from the play of the diamond ; and, although increasing the weight of the polished stone obtain- able from a given quantity of rough material, producing an inferior lustre and brilliancy ; added to which, the edges of the stones, which should be sharp as a knife- blade, are left blunt and often quite rough, which causes a greyish appearance and detracts from the so- called " play " of the stone. In Amsterdam this branch of industry occupies se- veral thousand persons, mostly of the Jewish religion. The largest mills there are those of Mr. Coster, em- ploying from 500 to 600 workmen. To this firm was entrusted the cutting of the Koh-i-Noor, after the Exhibition of 1851, and, later, the stone called the Star of the South. Diamond Culling. By the operation of cutting, the natural crust of the diamond is removed, and the stone is formed into the shape required. In order to cut a diamond, two stones are employed, which are fastened into two sticks, the tops being filled with cement, into which each dia- mond is inserted, leaving exposed the part to be cut. The workman, who has leathern gloves on his hands, as well as a leathern stall on the right thumb, takes a stick in each hand, and leaning them against two up- right pieces of iron, fastened on the edge of the cutting-bench, rubs the two diamonds together until he has produced a flat even surface (which is a facet), 68 Diamond Polishing instead of the concave or convex form of the natural stone. The dust or diamond powder which falls is re- ceived in a square box, containing oil, and the powder is burnt before being used, to free it from the particles of cement that become mixed with it. By this means two facets are cut on two different stones at the same time. During the cutting, the workman examines the facets by means of moistening the stone with the tongue, first taking care to remove any powder with a camel's- hair pencil. When the facet is formed, the cement is heated, and the diamond taken out, and replaced so as to expose a different surface until the cutting is com- pleted. It must be understood that by this opera- tion only the general outline of the form is made. A stone which would have when quite completed fifty- eight facets, including the table and culet, receives in cutting only eighteen, eight of which are the surfaces of an octahedron or double pyramid, and are formed by the taking away eight edges or angles of these eight surfaces, one for the whole table, and one for the culct. Diamond Polishing. By the next process the diamond is not only polished, but the remaining facets are formed. This is done by means of diamond powder, on a steel disk, called " skaif," which is made to revolve at a very high degree of velocity, by means of steam- or horse-power. These wheels, or "skaifs," are prepared in the following man- Diamond Polishing. 69 ner : The surface of the metal is rubbed with an ordi- nary whetstone, in such a direction as to form tangents of a circle, whose diameter is about a third of that of the " skaif." By this means the whole surface becomes covered with deep indentations, or scratches. Then a fine hone or Turkey stone is rubbed over again in the direction of the diameter, until the former marks are nearly obliterated ; and by the crossing of the scratches a kind of soft grain is formed, which makes the metal fit to receive and retain the diamond powder, which is then spread on the skaif with olive oil, and the flat surface of a finished diamond held against it whilst in motion j by these means the powder is forced into the wheel. The diamond to be polished is then inserted into a stick having a handle made of brass, with a hollow top filled with solder, into which the diamond is pressed whilst melting, and then allowed to cool ; the diamond is thus fixed in its proper position. Of course, when one facet of the stone is polished, the solder must be melted, and the stone removed and replaced in an- other position. This process completes at the same time the required shape of the diamond, and gives the necessary polish when the stone is ready for use. The work, as may be supposed, demands the greatest nicety : the least inat- tention or irregularity may spoil the stone ; and when the minuteness of the facets required on a stone, some of which are so small that a thousand only weigh one 70 Diamond Crushing. carat, Is considered, it will be readily understood that this process demands workmen skilled in a high degree. The stones which, from their formation, are not adapted for the double cutting, as well as the splinters from other diamonds, are made into single cut, a description of which is given hereafter. The rest are cut into brilliants or roses, of which the finest are sorted out for this country, die second quality sent to the Paris market, and the inferior descriptions to South America, Poland, Turkey, etc. The best and most experienced judges are however unable to determine with certainty what any stone will be when polished, as, in the process of cutting, flaws and imperfections are often laid bare, which go much deeper than the appearance of the rough diamond would predict ; and, on the other hand, the colour, ap- parent in the rough stone, is sometimes found to arise from the presence of flaws or specks, which are re- moved in cutting, thus leaving the stone white. Diamond Crushing. In order to reduce the boart to powder, it is placed in a steel crushing-mortar, fitted with an air-tight pestle j this, when struck violently with a hammer, reduces the stone into splinters ; it is then put into a hardened steel mortar, with a little olive oil, to prevent the powder from flying about. The pestle, also a piece of hardened steel, is placed on it, and it is struck Diamond Splitting. 7 * by a hammer, at the same time moving the pestle about until the whole of the fragments are completely crushed into an impalpable powder, which as well as the powder rubbed off in the cutting process previously described, is (when burnt to remove the oil) of a grey colour, and is worth from i6.. to i8s. per carat. Diamond Splitting. The splitting or cleavage of diamonds has a double purpose, namely, the removal of defective parts, fis- sures, or specks in the stone, and the formation of facets in the rough. This operation is only applied to a diamond when its natural form does not admit of its being cut in the regular way without a great expen- diture of time and labour. Stones of a rhombic do- decahedral form are nearly round, and the cutting is immensely shortened by splitting the facets from the rough; sometimes "usable" pieces are split off. The workman must have an exact knowledge of the structure and cleavage of the diamond, and as the form of the brilliant corresponds nearly with that of the octahedron or dodecahedron, the natural direction of cleavage much assists the lapidary. In order to split a diamond it is fastened into a stick, the top of which contains cement, and the part required to be split off is left uncovered} to avoid missing the proper plane of cleavage, a line is scratched on the surface with another diamond, to mark the exact 72 Forms of Diamonds. place. To make this line, three diamonds are used successively : the first a complete crystal, which marks out the direction ; then a sharp splinter, to deepen the impression, and lastly a very fine splinter, to make a very deep mark. The cement-stick is placed upright in a piece of lead fastened to the workman's bench, a very fine knife is then inserted in the mark made, and the stone is split by a smart blow from the hammer. There are some stones difficult to be split, and which are sawn with fine iron-wires fitted in a saw-bow, and anointed with diamond powder and olive oil. The same is sometimes done with large stones, on which the risk of splitting is too great to be incurred, or where the natural cleavage direction would reduce the size too much. NAMES OF DIFFERENT FORMS INTO WHICH DIAMONDS ARE CUT. CUM. Side View of side V i e w of Dia- Side View of Double- Rough Diamond. mond Partially Cut. Cut Diamond. The woodcut annexed shows, first, a side view of a diamond in its natural state ; next, when its upper and lower facets, which are called respectively the table and the culet, are made, the broadest part or edge of THE ORLOFF DROP SHAPED BRILLIANT 76> 2 CTS. S'/,-,.,j,, ,,y ,. ',-/<>, The Double-Cut Brilliant. 73 the stone being the girdle. The space from the upper part or table to the girdle is called the bezil or bizil ; that from the girdle to the lower part, the pavilion. The facets on the bezil touching the table and form- ing triangles, are called star-facets ; those touching the girdle are called skill-facets ; and the lozenge-shaped facets touching both table and girdle, are formed by the meeting of the star and skill facets. The triangular facets touching the girdle of the under part are the under skill-facets ; the culet is square or octagonal. of Double-Cut Brilliant. 3 Hack View of Double-Cut Brilliant. 3 t. The Table. '. The Girdle. "d. The Pavilioi I. The Star Facets. c. The Skill Facets, o. The Culet. h. The Lower Sides. /. The Under-Skill Facets The double-cut brilliant is the most common form at the present day. The general form of the rough diamond is of two pyramids joined at the base: if a diamond is not naturally of this form, it must be made so by art; and in order to produce the table, there must be taken away from the upper pyramid five- eighteenths, and from the lower one-eighteenth of the total thickness. The upper or flat part is called the table, and from thence to the girdle or centre 74. The Single-Cut Brilliant. edge, and broadest part of the stone, are facets, called star-facets; from the girdle to the lower or pointed part, called the culet, and which is nearly pointed, are facets, called skill-facets. These facets meet in the middle of each side of the table and girdle, .and also at the corners, forming regular lozenges on the four upper sides or corners of the stone. The tri- angular facets, on the under side from the culet to the girdle, must be half as deep again as the upper or star facets. The thickness of the stone should be in this proportion, from the table to the girdle one-third, and from the girdle to the culet two-thirds of the total thickness ; the diameter of the table four-ninths of that of the girdle, the culet one-fifth of the table. The girdle of the stone should be of the same dimensions as the thickness or depth. A stone, if well cut, should have a very thin edge at the girdle ; and any overweight or substance retained to make a diamond heavier, only detracts from its play or beauty. Front View. Side Vie* Single-Cut Diamond. The Single-Cut Brilliant. Jn this form of cutting the table is square and there are sixteen triangular facets touching it on the girdle , The Table Diamond. 75 the under part has (touching the girdle) twelve triangular facets, and underneath them eight long facets, making altogether thirty-eight facets. This is the old form of cutting. Old English Single-Cut. The old English single-cut, also called star single-cut, has, however, the table cut in the form of a star, like the above illustration. Table Diamond. Front View. Table Diamond. Side View. The Table Diamond. This form, which is occasionally seen on diamonds dismounted from old ornaments and stones coming from India, consists simply of a table, a culet, and eight or sometimes sixteen facets. The Rose Diamond. This mode of cutting differs from that of the bril- liant, in that, instead of a pointed culet, the under part of the rose is quite flat, and the upper terminates in a 76 The Rose Diamond. point. The work on the stone consists of triangles, whose apices meet at the point or crown of the rose, and which are called the star-facets. The bases of these Bose Diamond. Side View. touch another row of triangles reversed, so as together to form lozenges ; and the apices of these under tri- angles touch the girdle of the stone, leaving spaces which are each cut into two facets. To be well pro portioned, the depth of the stone must be half the diameter of its under side ; the diameter of the crown, three-fifths of the diameter of the base ; and the per- pendicular, from the base to the crown, three-fifths of the depth of the stone. The round form is the most adapted for this mode of cutting, as this shape is much easier to cut well, and when skilfully treated has a great deal of fire. Roses are frequently cut drop-shaped, oval, and, indeed, any form of which the rough piece admits, care always being taken that the least waste of material is effected. The rose diamond is frequently cut with many less facets, particularly those called Antwerp roses 5 but The Bnlliolette, or Briolei. 77 these are much less brilliant, and are only used for the commoner kind of work. Rose diamonds have been unfashionable for a long time, being superseded by the brilliant form ; lately, however, many persons have been purchasing and wear- ing rose diamonds, as the same amount of display is thereby secured at less than half the cost of the brilliant. The Brilliotette, or Briolet. In this mode of cutting, die diamond is formed exactly like two rose diamonds, joined together at the base ; this is a very beautiful form, particularly for pendeloques ; but these stones are very rarely met with. SOME ACCOUNT OF LARGE DIAMONDS. THE BRAGANZA. HE Braganza forms part of die Portuguese crown jewels. It was found in 1741, in Brazil; its weight is 1880 carats, but great doubts exist of its being a dia- mond. Indeed, many persons imagine it to be a white topaz ; but, as the Portuguese government will not suffer it to be examined, it is difficult to ascertain any facts regarding it. THE MATTAM DIAMOND. This diamond belongs to the Rajah of Mauam, in Borneo. It is of pure water, weighs 367 carats, and is of a pear-shaped form, indented at the thick end. It was found about the year 1760 at Landak, in Borneo, and has been the cause of a sanguinary war. The Koh-i-Noor 79 It still, however, remains in the possession of the Rajah of Mattam. The Dutch governor of Batavia offered two gunboats, with stores and ammunition com- plete, and ,^50,000 for it; but the offer was refused, the rajah replying, that on its possession depended the fortunes of his family. THE KoH-i-NooR. The history of this gem has been so often told, that it would be superfluous to give any lengthened notice of it. The Hindoo accounts deduce it from the time of the god Krischna. We know, however, for a cer- tainty, that it was in the treasury of Delhi, and was taken at the conquest of that city by Ala-ed-Din. Thence it came into the possession of the Sultan Baber, of the Mogul dynasty, in 1526. This prince esteemed it at the sum of the daily maintenance of the whole world. The jewel was seen by Tavernier among the jewels of Aurengzebe ; it had however been reduced by the unskilfulness of Hortensio Borgio from 793 carats to 186 carats, the weight it possessed at the Exhibition of 1851. The Emperor Aurengzebe was so incensed, that he refused to pay Borgio the sum agreed on for the cutting, confiscated the whole of his possessions, and with great difficulty was persuaded to leave him his head. Nadir Shah, the conqueror of India, obtained by means of an artful trick, possession of this stone, and from the hands of his descendants it passed into the 80 Account of Isorge Diamonds. possession of Achmed Shah. His son, Shah Sujah, was in turn forced to deliver it into the hands of Run- jeet Singh. After die capture of Lahore, at the time of the Sikh mutiny, it fell into the hands of the Bri- tish troops, who presented it to Her Majesty Queen Victoria, on the 3rd June, 1850. This brilliant was shown at the Exhibition of 1851 5 it then had an irregular form, with several hollows in its sides and base, and showed clear traces of natural cleavage planes. There were also several fissures, or cavities, in its surface. It was shown to several of the first scientific men of the day, Sir David Brewster among the number, who were of opinion that the stone pre- sented great difficulties in the way of cutting. After much consideration, it was entrusted to Mr. Coster, of Amsterdam, who expressed himself confident as to the result of re-cutting ; and the event proved the correct- ness of his judgment, for the stone, although of less weight than before, possesses nearly the same size, and, instead of being a lustreless mass, scarcely better than rock-crystal, it has become a brilliant, matchless foi purity and fire. This diamond now weighs 106^5- carats, and forms part of the crown jewels of England. THE CUMBERLAND DIAMOND. The sum of ^"10,000 was paid for this stone by the City of London, who presented it to the Duke of Cumberland after the battle of Culloden. It was one The Regent or Pitt Diamond. 8 1 of the stones claimed by the crown of Hanover, and recently has been restored by Her Majesty Queen Victoria. It weighs 32 carats. THE ORLOFF DIAMOND. This diamond is set in the sceptre of the Czars of Russia. It weighs 194^ carats ; like the Koh-i-Noor, it has the underside flat, and is rose-cut. This diamond is supposed to have formed one of the eyes of an idol in a Brahmin temple. It is also said to have been set in the famous peacock-throne of Nadir Shah. Be its origin what it may, it is certain that it was stolen by a Frenchman, who sold it in Malabar for 5^2800. It was purchased by the Armenian Schaffras, who sold it to the Empress Catherine II., in the year 1774, for 450,000 roubles, a pension of 20,000 roubles, and a patent of nobility. It is now placed in the Rus- sian Imperial sceptre. THE POLAR STAR. Remarkable purity and brilliancy are the characteris- tics of this diamond, preserved among the Russian Crown jewels. At one period it was owned in this country. THE SHAH. Cosroes, the son of Abbas Mirza, presented this diamond to the Emperor of Russia. It weighs eighty- six carats, and is perfectly pure and free from blemish. 82 Account of Lai ge Diamonds. It is engraved with a Persian inscription, and has a groove cut into its edge. THE REGENT OR PITT DIAMOND. This jewel forms part of the French crown jewels. Its weight is i36f. It was bought by the Duke of Orleans, then Regent of France, of Pitt, the Governor of. Fort St. George, in the year 1717, for ^135,000. When rough, the stone weighed 410 carats, and the cutting cost a20oo. Pitt had purchased this stone in Golconda, of Jamelchund, a Hindoo merchant, as he informs us in a pamphlet published to clear himself from the reports made about his having stolen it. Pope mentions it : " Asleep and naked as the Indian lay, An honest factor stole the gem away." The Man of Ross. This diamond was stolen from the Garde Meuble, in 1792, but was restored m a mysterious manner. Its cutting cost 563500, and occupied two years. The Em- peror Napoleon I. wore it in the pommel of his sword. It was shown at the French Exhibition of 1855. THE EUGENIE BRILLIANT. The Empress Eugenie possesses a perfect brilliant of fifty-one carats, of an oval shape, blunt at one end, very beautifully cut. It was purchased some years ago, b> the Emperor Napoleon III. The Florentine and Sancy I)iamonds. 83 THE FLORENTINE BRILLIANT. This brilliant belongs to the Emperor of Austria. It weighs 139! carats ; it is of a yellowish colour, is rather thick, and is covered with facets like a rose diamond, being pointed both at top and bottom. The stone is sup- posed to be one of those lost at the battle of Granson, by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. It was found by a Swiss soldier, who sold it to a priest for one florin. It was then sold by a Genoese merchant to Ludovic Sforza, Duke of Milan, and afterwards came into the possession of Pope Julius II., who gave it to the -then Emperor of Austria. THE SANCV. This diamond is of an almond shape, and weighs 53! carats. The stone was found on the body of the Duke of Burgundy, and was afterwards, in 1479, bought by the King of Portugal. In 1489, he sold it to Nicolas de Barly, Baron de Sancy, from whom it derives its name. Sancy sent it to the King as a present, by the hand of a servant, who being attacked by robbers, swallowed the stone, and after his death the stone was found in his body. It finally came into the hands of James II. of England, who sold it to Louis XIV., for ^25,000. In the French Revolution it disappeared, along with the renowned blue diamond which, strange to say, has never reappeared. Some years later the Sancy was sold to Prince Paul Demidoff. 84 Account of Large Diamonds. THE PASHA OF EGYPT. As its name denotes, this brilliant belongs or did be- long to Ibrahim Pasha. It weighs forty carats ; is of octa- gonal form, and is brilliant cut ; it is of very good quality and lively. THE NASSAK, OR NASSAC, DIAMOND. This diamond weighs 78f, and before its recutting by order of the proprietor, the Marquis of Westminster, weighed Spf- carats. It is of triangular form, with rounded facets, and was sold to Rundell and Bridge, in 1818, by the East India Company. Originally it was taken by the Marquis of Hastings at the conquest of the Deccan. When Messrs. Rundell and Bridge retired from business it was sold by auction. THE PIGGOTT DIAMOND. Late in the last century this diamond was sold by lottery for the sum of ^"30,000 j it was subsequently bought by Rundell and Bridge for ^6000. The weight is 82^ carats. It was afterwards sold to the Pasha of Egypt for ^"30,000. The present possessor is not known. THE HOPE DIAMOND. This brilliant, formerly the property of the late Mr. Hope, is of a most brilliant sapphire-blue colour, and is unique of its kind. It weighs 44^ carats, is of an oval Mr. Dresden's Diamond. 85 form, and is a well -cut and good-proportioned stone. Since the disappearance of the French blue diamond, it is the most beautiful and important blue diamond in existence. At the Exhibition of 1851, it was univer- sally admired. THE STAR OF THE SOUTH. This brilliant was found hi 1853 at Bogagem, in the province of Minas Geraes, by a negro. When rough, it weighed 254^ carats, but since the cutting only 125 carats. It is of an oval form, and was cut by, and is the property of Mr. Coster, of Amsterdam. The fire is considerable, and although not perfectly white and pure, it is one of the finest large diamonds extant. At the Exhibition of 1862, it was exhibited in the Dutch department. OTHER LARGE DIAMONDS. One of the finest large diamonds at present in the market, is a drop-shaped diamond, in the possession of Mr. Dresden, a City merchant; it is perfectly pure, free from defects, and has extraordinary play and brilliancy, indeed the quality of the stone is superior to the Koh-i- noor; the weight is /6j carats. It was lately found in the Brazils. Besides those specified here, there exist several very large diamonds amongst the treasures of various coun- tries. In the Russian treasury is a brilliant red diamond of 10 carats, bought by Paul I. for 100,000 roubles. 86 Value of Diamonds. [n the " Grime Gewb'lbe," at Dresden, is a green dia- mond, of 4.8^ carats, and of the most remarkable beauty, which belonged to Augustus the Strong. The crown of Portugal possesses one of 138 \ carats, which was found in the river Abai'te, in Brazil, by three convicts. The Brazilian government also possesses some very large and curious stones. The Grand Duke of Tuscany has one of a most beautiful blue, faceted all over. The Sultan of Turkey has two, one of 84, one of 147 carats in weight. In the interior oi Tndia, Pegu, and China, there are said to exist some very large dia- monds, but we have as yet no authentic particulars of them. ON THE VALUE OF DIAMONDS. The diamond occupies the highest rank amongst precious stones, and possesses an intrinsic value in almost every part of the globe. The discrimination of the various qualities, colours, etc., which exercise an immense influence over its value, is however difficult, and requires a long experience ; but it is easy for the most inexperienced to ascertain whether a diamond be perfect or not, so that die undermentioned particulars, and a comparison with the Table of Value and plate of Sizes, will enable such persons to arrive at the value of any particular stone if it be white and free from defect, although it will not enable them to value inferior or defective gems. The value of the rough diamond is calculated at half Value of Diamonds. 87 its weight, as it is supposed to lose fifty per cent, in cutting and polishing ; and the price of cutting may be estimated at about 155. per carat. The value depends on the colour, size, and form of crystals, and for stones under two carats in weight ranges from sGz los. to $ per carat. Great caution must be exercised in pur- chasing rough diamonds, as parcels frequently contain colourless spinels, which have a similar form, pieces of quartz, topaz, etc. For the valuation of polished diamonds, the only Tables used in the trade are those made by Jeffries, 1750, which are based on the assumption that a dia- mond increases in value in proportion to its weight, in the ratio to the square of its weight, that is to say, supposing the value of a one-carat stone be g8, one of two carats will be worth 2 X 2 X 8=^*32 ; and he continues the same mode of calculation up to stones of 100 carats. Possibly these Tables may have been correct in his time, but from various causes the price of diamonds has enormously increased during die last twenty years on all stones below five carats in weight, although not so in the larger sizes, or at all events in anything like the same proportion. Diamonds follow the same laws which govern the value of every other commodity those of supply and demand and as the production of these gems has diminished, and die number of wearers greatly increased, die price has gone on augmenting, and no doubt will continue to augment, unless some unforeseen occurrence, such as die disco- 88 lvalue of Diamonds. very of a new diamond mine, or other source of large production, takes place. The number of persons able and willing to invest the sum of money required for the purchase of large stones has not increased in anything like the same proportion, and therefore their value has not advanced in the same ratio as the smaller sizes. It is impossible to lay down any rule by which to calculate the value according to any arbitrary connection with the weight ; as any particular size is in demand or not, so does that size augment in price or diminish ; for instance, at the present moment a per- fect one-carat stone is worth ^18, but a five-carat stone is not worth 450, which is the value it would have according to Jeffries, but 5^320, and so on. It is, therefore, a matter of infinite difficulty to fix a price which shall be a reliable one both to buyer and seller, and the prices given in the Table accompanying this book are the market prices of the present day, sub- ject, however, to the same changes as other articles, although, from the scarcity of the rough material, and increasing demand, they seem likely still further to rise. For a diamond to be worth the price fixed against it in my table, it must possess the following qualifica- tions : i . It must be perfectly free from the faintest tinge of colour of any sort; from any flaws, specks, marks, or fissures in any partj must be bright and lively, and free from what is technically called ' milk' or ' salt,' which are semi-opaque imperfections in the body of the stone. In lvalue of Diamonds. 89 order to ascertain this, it is sufficient to breathe on the stone, when any defect or colour will be apparent. It is necessary to look at a stone on all sides, as a defect may exist which is not visible in looking at the table. 2. The stone must be well proportioned and properly cut, and be of the size shown in die annexed plate. The culet must be one-sixth of the size of the table, from the table to the girdle must be one-third, and from the girdle to the culet two-thirds of the whole thickness of the stone. The size of the table should be four-ninths of the extreme size of the stone ; any dia- mond having its substance otherwise divided, is badly proportioned, and therefore worth less than a properly proportioned stone. The value of stones above five carats is not attempted to be given, as it is impossible to fix it with any accuracy, this depending entirely on the demand for any particular size, and the supply in the market. With regard to very large stones, their price is always a matter of nego- tiation, independent of any market rates, and in a great measure depending on the necessity of the seller, and the desire of the buyer. When a diamond has a very decided colour, such as blue, red, green, &c., it is called a fancy stone, and will bring a most exorbitant price. A stone of five grains, of a brilliant emerald-green, for which if white not more than ^28 could be obtained, has been known to sell for 36*3205 and the price could readily be obtained again, did the possessor wish to part with it. 90 lvalue of Diamonds. The terms, FIRST WATER, SECOND WATER, etc., mean only first and second quality. Diamonds when perfect should be clear as a drop of the purest water j and they are described as second or third water when more or less clear, until decidedly yellow or brown, when they are termed coloured. The value of coloured brilliants under one carat, is from a?4 to ] per carat, depend ing on the degree of tinge ; but, as it requires the judg- ment of a practised eye to estimate the difference of the shade, and consequently of value, it would be useless to give any closer valuation. The value of stones of the first quality, of a less weight than two grains, isa^io to aio. los. per carat, the second quality aS8. 155. per carat, the third ^7. IQS. per carat. The plates of sizes given in this work are drawn ac- cording to the rules laid down. Unfortunately, the dia- mond cutters of the present day turn their attention more to the production of the greatest weight from a given quantity of rough diamond, than to the production of per- fectly-proportioned stones, for which reason we often meet with stones weighing three carats whose proper weight should be two, which renders them less valuable and not nearly so brilliant as one of two carats properlv cut. Any over or under-weight only detracts from its beauty. One great reason of the exorbitant prices sometimes charged to the public, is generally owing to the igno- rance of the retailers of the real value. Consequently, f^alue of Diamonds. 91 they are at the mercy of the merchant, who makes them pay far more than the market value ; and to the inex- perienced purchaser, the best security for obtaining a fair value for his money will be found in this com- modity as in any other in the knowledge and character of the vendor. Many fluctuations have taken place in the value of this gem, since the discovery of the art of cutting it in 1457, which first gave it a value in Europe. At first the imperfect communication with India, and the small number of persons sufficiently wealthy to purchase them, confined their possession to the princes and nobles of the period. The value of money, also, was so much greater in proportion to the prices of the staples of life, that even if the values then obtained were known to us, it would give but a faint idea of their prices in compari- son with those of this day. In 1606, at a sale by auction at Venice, of the effects of a great diamond merchant named Giovanni Ricardo, the price of a diamond weigh- ing one carat, as recorded by Portileone. in his work called 'Shilti Hageborim,' was sSzi. 13,9. 4^.5 in the year 1750, just before the discovery of the diamond mines in the Brazils, the price of a stone of the same weight was 68; and, in 1791^ the commission of French jewellers, appointed by the National Convention to value the Crown jewels, fixed the price of diamonds of one carat (which we may infer were of fine quality) at no more than s6. Before this time, however, the importation of diamonds from Babia had lowered the 92, falue of* Diamonds. value still more, but the price of diamonds had then risen in consequence of the uncertainties of life and pro- perty in this time of trouble. After the fall of Napoleon, and the peace that ensued, the price rose steadily until the year 1848, when, on the outbreak of the revolution, carat stones fell to between ^. and $ each, in conse- quence of the large quantities that were suddenly forced on the market. As in the previous revolution, however, they quickly began to rise in value, and since that time a steady rise of about ten per cent, per annum has taken place, and in consequence of the production of the diamond mines decreasing, and the desire for this gem becoming more universal, another augmenta- tion is expected. Annexed is a Table of the present values, and following this is a Comparative Table of the values of diamonds in the year 1606 and 1750, which may prove of interest to those who desire to study the history of precious stones, or who care to note the rise and fall of prices, as fashion on the one hand, and sup- ply on the other, arrecl the value ot commodities. THE PROPER SIZES OF WELL PROPORTIONED BRILLIANTS OF THE VARIOUS WEIGHTS. The Black Lines underneath, shovrthe relative thickness each should "have, and the ramd dots the si^e of the Culet/. ic* 7C1 10 Value of Brilliants. 93 TABLE SHOWING VALUE OF BRILLIANTS UP TO FIVE CARATS. The Prices given below are those of perfectly white and pure Bril- liants, free from defects or Jlaics, of the proportions shown, and liable to variation with the changes of the market, Palue in 1865. A Brilliant weighing of a carat ... 60 f ,, ...no i . . . 21 o ti .-- .35 o ii ... 45 if ... 55 o ,,2 . . . 80 O 2i ... 90 O i\ ... no o 2-f- 1 2O O 3 H 3i ... 150 o 3i ... 175 o 3i ... 19 ,,4 . . . 220 o 4i ... 240 o 4i ... 300 o 4* . ... 330 o 5 35 Weight by which Diamonds and precious stones are calculated. 4 grains i carat. 151^- carats i oz. troy. 94 Value of Diamonds in 1606 and 1750. 000000000000000000 n v OOOe i 00''$-c*OOOe* -^-OO oo o\ *< c^ *^"^o oo o ! H Q b? B -- <* * * * ^ g 3 CO Q O 8 Q [3^ -S r "H "^ ^OO OOO ^O -4- O O 'J-OOO - ^ co coO M u-j M \O OO ^oVD x^. O\ e* 'tn'O O J~3 gj >-ICOT-O f^OO O\ M ^O O\ M *O O ^ 111 . is. 111 > ,p IP , , , aiv, "not to inebriate," in allusion to the superstition that this stone had the power of dissi- pating drunkenness. Pliny says that the gem was so called from the fact of its approaching near to the colour Cairngorm, Cinnamon Stone, etc. 159 of wine, but not quite reaching it. In the Middle Ages, it was believed to dispel sleep, sharpen the intellect, and lo be an antidote against poison. In 1652 an amethyst was worth as much as a diamond of equal weight. CAIRNGORM, CINNAMON STONE, FALSE TOPAZ, ETC. As a variety of quartz, the cairngorm possesses pre- cisely those physical characteristics mentioned at p. 152, in treating of the subject generally. This stone takes its name from the fact of its being found in the Cairn- gorm mountains, in Scotland. It is commonly supposed that only the smoky varieties have a right to the name of " cairngorm"; but it really is very difficult to decide, as the name appears to run through all shades of colour from black to yellow. Jewellers and lapidaries call these stones Brazilian topaz, Mexican topaz, Spanish topaz, smoke-stone, etc., just as their fancy dictates, and always appear to have a separate name ready for every tint of colour. This, however, would not be of so much con- sequence if they confined this loose nomenclature to the varieties of quartz ; but utterly regardless of chemical composition, they call all pale green stones aquamarine, all pale yellow stones topazes, etc. etc. The lapidaries of Edinburgh cut the cairngorm in a way which displays the colour of this stone in a most remarkable manner, causing great brilliancy. They cover the underside of the stone entirely with oblong facets arranged in regular rows ; while the table is .0oAu,os (wolf's-eye). JASPER. This stone another of the many varieties of quartz is very compact, and is found of various colours dark green, red, brown, yellow, greyish, and sometimes bluish and black. It is very hard, and takes a fine polish. Oc- casionally it is found banded, or in stripes of different colours, when it is termed ribbon-jasper ; the stripes are usually red and green alternating. Jasper alone is infu- sible before the blowpipe, but it will melt with the addition of carbonate of soda. It is sometimes found imbedded in trap rock, but more frequently in pebbles in the beds of rivers. The yellow jasper is found near the Bay of Smyrna, in Greece and other places ; the red in the plains of Argos j the variety known as ribbon-jasper comes from Siberia and Saxony ; and another kind, termed Egyptian jasper, is found on the banks of the Nile. This latter is of a fine brown on the exterior, and clouded with brown of various shades, frequently spotted with black ; the markings in this variety occasionally resembling natural objects. A specimen in the British Museum is thought to exhibit a likeness of t the poet Chaucer. The yellow 1 74 Jasper. variety is used in the Florentine mosaic-work called pietra dura. The ancients were well acquainted with this stone, and prized it most highly. Onomakritos, 500 years before the Christian era, speaks of the " grass-green jasper, which rejoices the eye of man, and is looked on with pleasure by the immortals." The emeralds spoken of by Roman and Greek authors were most probably green jasper, as we hear of pillars of temples cut out of one piece. Pliny, who describes no less than ten kinds of jasper, relates that it was worn by the natives of the East as an amulet or charm. This stone was much used for cameos ; many specimens are extant, having several layers, and the objects represented are cut deep or shallow, so as to bring the colours into contrast : for instance, in some specimens may be seen the head of a warrior in red jasper, the helmet green and the breastplate yellow. In the collection of the Vatican are two marveUous vases of this substance; one of red jasper with white stripes, the other of black jasper with yellow stripes. This stone is cut on copper wheels with fine sand and emery, and polished on wooden or metal wheels with pumice and tripoli. Jasper is highly prized in China, the seal of the Em- peror being made of it. In Europe its commercial value in the rough is from is. to $os. per lb., depending on the quality, evenness, and colour. The jasper, according to the Authorized Version or' the Scriptures, was the twelfth stone in the breast-plate Bloodstone or Heliotrope. 175 of the High Priest. ; and as the Hebrew name is " yasb- peh," which is stiikingly similar to jasper, and almost all the translations agree, there can be little doubt as to its identity. Galen, among other sage advice, relates that if a jasper be hung about the neck, it will strengthen the stomach. THE BLOODSTONE OR HELIOTROPE. Bloodstone is another jasper- variety of quartz, of a dark-green colour, and having those minute blood-red specks disseminated throughout, which give its name. The word heliotrope, from ^Xtos, the sun, and Tpoirrj, a turning, is derived from the notion that, when immersed in water, it changed the image of the sun into blood-red. Pliny relates that the sun could be viewed hi it as in a mirror, and that it made visible its eclipses. Marbodus, in his poem on precious stones, thus speaks of it under the name of heliotrope : " Ex re nomen habens est heliotropia gemma, Quae solis radiis in aqua subjecto basillo, Sanguine reddit mutato lumine solem Eclipsemque novam terris effundere cogit." This stone is found in large quantities in India, Bo- khara, Siberia, and Tartary, and also in the Isle of Rum in the Hebrides, occurring generally in masses of con- siderable size. It is translucent, and susceptible of a beautiful polish ; its commercial value, as in the case of other stones, varies with the quality of the specimen. 176 The Chrysolite, Peridot, etc. The bloodstone is used for the same purposes as agate and onyx. There is a tradition that at the Crucifixion the blood which followed the spear-thrust fell upon a dark -green jasper lying at the foot of the cross, and from this cir- cumstance sprang the variety. In the Middle Ages the red specks alluded to were supposed to represent the blood of Christ ; and this stone was thought to possess the same medicinal and magical virtues as the jasper. Crystal of Peridot. THE CHRYSOLITE, PERIDOT, OR OLIVINE. This gem is the true chrysolite, although not ac- knowledged as such by jewellers and lapidaries, who invariably confine that name to the chrysoberyl. It belongs to the monetric system of crystallization, and is the softest of all the gems (numbering from 6 to 7 in the scale) and is easily scratched by quartz. Its lustre is vitreous, and the fracture conchoidal. The specific gravity varies from 3-33 to 3*5, and its chemical com- position is as follows : Silica 39.73 Magnesia 50-13 Chrysolite, Peridot, etc. 177 Piotoxide of iron 9-19 Alumina 0*32 Protoxide of manganese .... O'OQ Oxide of nickel o'22 Before the blowpipe it becomes darker, but is infusible, except in the case of the variety called hyalosidente, which melts into a black magnetic globule. This stone, as its name implies, contains a large quantity of iron. All the varieties give the iron and silica reactions, and are easily and completely dissolved by sulphuric acid into a jelly. This stone is called peridot when of a deep olive-green, olivine when of a yellowish-green, and chrysolite when of a lighter, or of a greenish-yellow, colour. Mineralo- gists enumerate many other varieties, but they are ot little interest, except to the mineralogical student. Peridots are found in Ceylon, Pegu, Brazil, and also near Constantinople, in angular or worn pieces, very rarely crystallized ; they are not, however, very plenti- ful. The olivine and chrysolite occur in Egypt, Mexico, in Auvergne, the Tyrol, Scotland, etc., usually in sub- stances of volcanic origin. Specimens have been met v/ith in the lava of Vesuvius. None of the varieties of this gem are much used in jewellery, although some of them possess a very beauti- ful deep colour : perhaps the fact of its being scratched very easily may be the cause. They are usually cut in steps, or en cabochon. On the Continent the chrysolite is often cut like a rose diamond, and set with a gold foil 178 The Turquoise. a copper wheel being employed in cutting it, and the polish obtained by the use of tripoli and oil. The peridot very closely resembles the green tourmaline, from which, however, it may be readily distinguished by its non-electrical properties when heated, and by its softness. The name chrysolite is derived from xpuo-os, gold, and Ai0os, a stone. Peridot in many oriental languages signifies a gem. The chrysolite is conjectured to have been the so-called topaz of Pliny, who, how- ever, confounds it with the chrysoberyl as well as the topaz. The value both of the chrysolite and peridot is very small j fine specimens of good size may be bought at from is. to 15$. the carat. A few years ago they were in tolerable demand for jewellery purposes, when they commanded a much larger price than at present. THE TURQUOISE. This stone, in ancient times called the Turkis or Turkey stone, is found in reniform or stalactitic masses, never in crystals ; it has a hardness of 6 in the scale (although specimens vary considerably), and a specific gravity of 2*6. It possesses a somewhat waxy lustre, is occasionally translucent, although generally opaque, and has a small conchoidal fracture, with a white streak. Its composition is as follows : .Che Turquoise. 179 From Silesia. From Persia. Analysis by Fohn. Analysis by Hermann. Alumia .... 44-50 . . 47'45 Phosphoric acid 30-90 . . 27-34 Water .... 19-00 . . , . 18-18 Protoxide of copper 375 . . 2'02 Protoxide of iron . 1-80 . . , , . Peroxide of iron . . . , no Peroxide of manganese ... 0-50 Phosphate of lime . . . .V4 1 Before the blowpipe it decrepitates violently, and yields water ; in the reducing flame it becomes brown, and colours the flame green, but is infusible except with borax or salt of phosphorus ; it dissolves without effer- vescence in muriatic acid. The turquoise of commerce comes from Nichabour in Khorasan in Persia, and is found varying from white to a fine azure blue, occasionally greenish ; but it is only the fine blue stones that are of any value. The turquoise is frequently supposed to be found in Russia, but this is an error, and arises from the fact that great numbers are sold to Russians at the fair of Nishni Nov gorod by Persian, Kirghiz, and Tartar merchants j they are stuck upon wax-sticks and sold in bundles like quills. An inferior variety is found in Thibet, China, Silesia, and at Oelnitz in Saxony. Lately there has been disco- vered, by Major Macdonald, in Arabia Petraea, near Mount Sinai, another variety, found in a stratum of red sandstone. The colour of this turquoise is darker and of a finer blue than the best Persian stones, but it X 2 180 The Turquoise. has the unfortunate peculiarity of changing its hue in the most rapid and mysterious manner ; a fine blue stone will turn on the lapidary's wheel to a sickly green or whitish tint ; other specimens retain their colour for some weeks, breaking out afterwards in an eruption of white specks, which gradually overspread the whole sur- face, whilst others again begin to whiten or to become green first round the edge ; some specimens regain their colour by being soaked in water or weak uric acid, but lose it again as the stone becomes dry. In certain rare instances, however, the colour has remained unchanged for many years ; but, as a rule, it would be well never to give a large price for any turquoise from this mine. They may be readily distinguished from the real tur- quoise de vieille roche by the stratum (in most cases apparent at the back) being of a pale yellowish-red colour, instead of dark brown. The Persian turquoise is also subject to change of colour, although in nothing like the proportion of the variety mentioned above ; if not brought into contact with acids, musk, camphor, or other scents, it retains its hue for many years, turning at last to a green or a white, although ancient cameos and intaglios are extant which have retained their colour until the present day. Many persons still hold to the belief that this gem by its changes indicates the state of health of the wearer, and perhaps the fact that turquoises do vary their colour in the most unaccountable manner, may have something to do with this old superstition. The Turquoise. j$i This stone is cut en cabochon on a leaden wheel, with emery, and is polished on a wooden one, with rotten- stone, and finished with rouge. The bone or fossil turquoise (or odontolite) found in Languedoc is composed of nothing but bones fossilized and coloured by phosphate of iron j it is sometimes called turquoise Bricard, from the name of the ori- ginal owner of the mine. This so much resembles the real stone as to ' deceive many persons ; the colour is generally fine, but of an inky blue, which is never seen on the Persian turquoise, and its texture, which is very compact, shows in its fibrous lines, sometimes straight and sometimes across each other, traces oi animal structure. This turquoise is sometimes called turquoise de nouvelle roche, but its value is very trifling ; a fine ring-stone may be purchased for 20*., and smaller stones at proportionately smaller prices. The Persian turquoise is much used in jewellery, and a great number are sold here and in Paris ; small clear stones bring from 6d, to 2os. each, whilst a fine ring-stone will realize from sSio to ^"40. Large tur- quoises of good quality and fine colour are extremely rare, and realize most extravagant prices ; a perfect stone of the size of a shilling, and of good depth, was sold not long ago for 5^400. The turquoise is much used in ori- ental countries for ornamenting harness, girdles, swords, daggers, and pipes, also for amulets and charms. It is also frequently engraved with the name of Allah, a verse of the Koran, or some device, and then filled hi i82 The Opal. with gold j faulty specimens are generally chosen, as the defects can thus be concealed. The Shah of Persia is supposed to have in his possession all the finest gems, allowing those only of inferior quality to leave the coun- try. The turquoise, hi ancient times called the callaite, was well known to the Greeks and Romans. Pliny notices its changing colour from gradual decomposition, and also shares in the oriental belief that this gem was lucky, and brought health and fortune to the wearer Several antique cameos and intaglios cut in this material are extant in the Vatican, some of which still retain their colour. Fragments of turquoise, which appear to have been parts of amulets, are frequently met with in the ruins of ancient towns in Egypt. THE OPAL. This magnificent gem is composed of silica in an amorphous state, mixed with water, and is in reality the same mineral as quartz, with the addition of 6 or 7 per cent, of water : it never occurs in a crystallized form, it has a vitreous lustre inclining to resinous, is numbered in the table of hardness from 5*5 to 6*5, is scratched by quartz, and has a specific gravity varying from 1*9 to 2-3. There are many varieties, the " noble," or precious opal used by jewellers ; the "fire," or reddish opal, which has also occasionally a fine play of colours ; the so- called common opal j the semi- or half-opal ; the hydro- The Opal 183 phane (known in commerce as the Mexican opal) ; another variety of hydrophane called cacholong, of a milk-white colour, nearly opaque, and containing a small percentage of alumina, and about 3*5 per cent, of water j the opal jasper, which contains oxide of iron, and is- found in the neighbourhood of the Geysers of Iceland ; finally, the wood opal, or opalized wood, of which huge masses are met with in Hungary, Tasmania, and other parts, whole trees occasionally being found converted into the ligneous structure called wood opal. There are other varieties, but of such small importance that they need not be enumerated here. The following are the analyses of the varieties of opal : Fire Opal of Mexico. Analysis by Klaproth. Fire Opal of Georgia. A BrS. by Opal of Hungary. Analysis by Damour. Semi-Opal of Han a u. Analysis by Stiicker. Fire Opal of Faroe. Analysis by Forcham- mer. Silica . . 92'OO 91-89 93'9 82-75 8873 Water . . ' 775 5-84 6-10 lO'OO 7'97 Peroxide of iron . 0-25 3-00 Alumina . 1-40 .rs 0.49 Magnesia . 0'92 _ 1-48 Lime . 0-25 0-49 Potash and Soda. . | - '34 The opal is infusible before the blowpipe, but gives off water, and becomes opaque 3 those varieties contain- ing iron turn red. It is almost entirely soluble in a cold 1 84 The Opal. solution of caustic potash ; in other respects its chemical characteristics are the same as quartz. The precious opal is found in claystone porphyry at Czernowitza; between Kaschau and Eperies, in Hun- gary; occasionally near Frankfort ; and at the mines in the province of Gracias, Honduras, South America : the "fire" opal at Zimapan and San Nicolas, in Mexico, the Faroe Islands, etc. : the common opal in Hungary, Faroe Islands, Iceland, Giant's Causeway, Ireland, Cornwall, and near Smyrna : cacholong occurs in small masses on the river Cach, in Bucharia whence its name and also in Iceland. The precious, or noble opal is one of the most beau- tiful gems in existence; when held between the eye and the light il .appears of a pale milky-reddish blue, but when seen by reflected light it displays all the colours of the rainbow, in flakes, flashes, or specks, in fact, ah 1 the colours of the most beautiful gems are here united in one. When the colours are in small flakes, distributed over the surface, it is termed by jewellers "harlequin" opal, on account of its resemblance to the motley tints of the harlequin's dress. When fine, these are much prized ; but most persons prefer stones having the variously-coloured fire in large flashes. This marvellous play of colour is thought to be occasioned by nearly in- visible fissures ; the Abbe Haiiy, however, ascribes it to thin films of air filling cavities in the interior. Opals are always cut en cabochon on both sides, and the true beauties of the gem only display themselves when the The Opal. 185 stone is moved about, as then a fine opal really appears to have an actual life within itself. They are very brittle, and are always much more bril- liant on a warm day. A dealer in precious stones, aware of this peculiarity, invariably holds an opal in his hand before showing it, in order to impart warmth to the gem. Fine stones of large size are rarely found ; they seldom exceed an inch in diameter. At the mines in the locality of Gracias a Dios, in Honduras, specimens have been found equally as fine as the Hun- garian stones, and certainly not to be distinguished from specimens coming thence. The hydrophane, or Mexican opal, loses its beauty when exposed to water, and Sir Walter Scott has alluded to this fact in 'Anne of Geierstein,' although in that romance lie ascribes it to supernatural agency. Strange to say, after the publication of the brilliant novelist's fiction, the belief that opals were unlucky obtained such cur- rency that they quickly went out of fashion. Of late years they have again come into vogue, and now promise to become, as they have always deserved to be esteemed, universal favourites j the more especially as they are the only precious stones which defy imitation. In Eastern, nations they have always been highly prized. The Mexican opal can be restored to its original colour by a moderate application of heat. The common opal is used in Germany for cheap jew- ellery cane-tops, snuff-boxes, etc. ; the other varieties are not used. The value of the precious opal depends i86 The Opal. entirely on the brilliancy and play of its colours, and any attempt at pricing it would be an idle task ; for large fine gems of extraordinary beauty as much as siooo has been paid; fine ring or brooch stones bring from ,40 to s^ioo, and smaller ones from $s. to 20 per piece ; they are very rarely sold per carat. The opal is cut on a leaden wheel with emery, and polished on a wooden one with tripoli and water. Great care must be taken not to heat the stone too much by friction, and, from its fragility, very delicate handling will be requisite. The opal was known to the most ancient authors, and was esteemed beyond any other precious stone. Pliny describes it as uniting the colours of the ruby, the ame- thyst, the topaz, and the emerald, in the most marvel- lous mixture, and says that its fire is like the flame of burning sulphur. He relates that a Roman senator, Nonnius, was outlawed and sent into exile by Marcus Antonius, because he refused to give up an opal. The stone valued at 20,000 sesterces, about ,170,000 was of the size of a filbert, and set in a ring, but rather than part with it Nonnius submitted to exile, carrying his stone with him. Amongst the French crown jewels are two wonderful opals j one is set in the clasp of the imperial cloak. The finest known is in the museum at Vienna ; itwas found at Czernowitza, where mines have been worked since A.D. 1400, and is of immense size and extraordinary beauty. It is said that ^"50,000 has been refused for it. THE PEARL. HIS beautitu] gem, formed by nature in the shells of oysters and of mussels, is found in the beds of rivers and in the sea, in various places in Europe, Asia, and America. Its chemical composition is entirely carbonate of lime and organic matter. It possesses a lustre peculiar to itself, which is called pearly : it is easily affected by acids and fetid gases, and calcines on exposure to heat. The specific gravity is 2*5 to 2*7 ; those found on the coast of Souui America, termed Panama pearls, ate somewhat heavier than the oriental ones. Naturalists account for the formation of these gems in the endeavours of the animal to rid itself of some foreign body which has intruded into its shell, by cover- ing it with a deposit similar to the interior of the oyster 1 88 The pjarl. shell, commonly known by the name of mother-of- pearl j others ascribe it to a disease of the oyster. In some instances, on bisecting a pearl it is found to be composed of a series of layers or skins round a speck of some darker substance ; in others the middle of the pearl is hollow and of a globular or spherical form ; and in others again the pearl appears perfectly solid, and of the same texl ure, colour, and formation through- out. The Chinese, from a very remote period, have been in the habit of inserting small beads, images, etc., in the shells of oysters and mussels, and these have cer- tainly become coated with a pearly substance, but they are generally of a blackish tint, with very little lustre, and far inferior in appearance to the pearls formed in the laboratory of nature. The wonderful polish and consequent lustre of a fine pearl, which in a great measure constitutes its value, and has never yet been even passably imitated would appear to be caused by the friction of the soft body of the oyster for a considerable length of time j and this polish in most cases exists only on the outer skin, as on removing the exterior surface the next layers are usually dull in colour and dead in lustre, resembling a fish's eye In some cases, however, a pearl of very bad ex- terior contains a fine and " lively " kernel. Pearls are found of almost every imaginable colour, and of the most fantastic shapes j in some instances of considerable size, but tJhose of both fine quality and large dimensions are very rare. Sometimes a shell will The Pearl. 189 be opened containing several pearls detached, sometimes with one or more adhering closely to the shell, and occasionally with pearls conglomerated together in a shapeless mass. The oriental pearls are seldom found of any colour but yellow and white, and are usually of a round or button form ; whilst the American or Panama are generally blackish or brownish, and mostly long and drop-shaped. The number of fine and large pearls is, however, as may be supposed, very small. The sea pearl-oyster, Meleagrina margaritifera, is a large oyster of seven or eight inches in diameter, with very thick shells, rather flat, and of a greenish-black ex- terior ; whilst the interior is of a silver- white hue re- flecting various colours, being, in fact, the ordinary mother-of-pearl of commerce, too well known to require further description here. Some idea of the quantity of this material produced may be gathered from the fact that there are imported into Europe annually some 15,000 tons; and, calculating the average weight of a pearl shell, we have the astonishing number of from five to six million oysters which have been fished from the ocean. The principal pearl-fisheries are in the East, on the west coast of Ceylon, in the Bay of Manaar, in the Per- sian Gulf, and in the Sooloo Islands (which lie between Borneo and Mindanao) . Pearl-fishing is also carried on in the Aroo Islands ; near the island of Papua, or New Guinea; in the Red Sea; in America, on both the 190 The Pearl. Pacific and Atlantic coasts (in California, and latterly on the coast of New Jersey) ; and in several other localities. A short account of the pearl-fishery in Ceylon, which is the property of and is conducted by the Colonial Government, may interest the reader. When the sea- son for the pearl-fishery arrives, a fleet of boats, some- times as many as 150, put out, but not before they have gone through numberless ceremonies, which the natives will on no account forego. Under the command of the adanapar, or head pilot, each boat is manned with twenty men and a steersman, ten being rowers and ten divers, besides a ' pillal karras,' or shark charmer. The government keep these men in regular pay, as no diver would descend without their presence. Other conjurors remain on the seashore, mumbling incantations until the boats return. At each side of the boat is a stage, from which the divers descend. The men go down into the sea five at a time ; when the first five come up, the other five go down ; and by this method of alter- nately diving, they give each other time to recruit them- selves for a fresh plunge. In order to accelerate the descent of the divers, large stones are employed : 'five of these are taken in each boat for the purpose j they are of a reddish granite common in this country, and of a pyramidal shape, round at top and bottom, with a hole in the smaller end sufficient to admit a rope. Some of the divers use a stone shaped like' a half-moon, which they fasten around their middle when they wish to descend, and thus The Pearl. 191 keep their feet free. The stones generally weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds each. The diver, when he is about to plunge, seizes the rope to which one of the stones previously described is at- tached with the toes of his right foot, while he takes hold of a bag of network with those of his left it being customary among all the Indians to use their toes in working or holding as well as their fingers ; and such is the power of habit, that they pick up even the smallest thing from the ground with their toes almost as nimbly as a European could with his fingers. The diver, thus pre- pared, seizes another rope with his right hand, and hold- ing his nostrils shut with the left, plunges into the water, and by the assistance of the stone speedily reaches the bottom. He then with much dexterity and all possible dispatch collects as many oysters as he can while he is able to remain under water, which is usually about two minutes. This done he resumes his former position, makes a signal to those above by pulling the rope in his right hand, and is immediately drawn up into the boat. The serious effects of this continual submersion are shown in the discharge of water, and occasionally blood, which takes place from the diver's mouth, ears, and nostrils. But this does not hinder the men from going down again in their turn. They will often make from forty to fifty descents in one day, and at each plunge bring up about a hundred oysters. Some rub their bodies over with oil, and stuff cotton into their ears and noses to prevent the water from en- JQ2 The Pearl. taring, while others use no precautions whatever. Al- though from one to two minutes is the time generally passed under water, yet instances are known of four, five, and even six minutes' stay beneath the surface. The great dread of the divers is the ground-shark, a common inhabitant of the seas in those latitudes. During the time of the fishery conjurors stand on the shore till the boats return in the afternoon, muttering prayers, twisting their bodies into strange attitudes, and performing ceremonies. All this time they ought to abstain from food or drink ; but they occasionally regale themselves with toddy, till they are no longer able to stand at their devotions. If an alarm be given by one diver, none of the others will descend that day. Latterly, the diving bell has been adopted, which, when it is brought into general use, will of course much diminish the danger. On the return of the boats, they are unloaded and the oysters left to putrify in pits or closed vessels. When these are opened the pearls are washed from the decayed oysters, in troughs, with sea-water. On other occasions the shells are opened immediately, and the pearls extracted. The oysters, however, are generally sold unopened, and as their con- tents are alike unknown to both buyer and seller, the transaction takes more the form of a lottery than a com- mercial exchange, in fact, the trade has in it much of the spirit of gambling. Many oysters contain no pearl, whilst others may produce a pearl worth ^200 or The Pearl. 193 The government derive a large income from this fishery, and protect it by the strictest regulations. Those places to be fished are buoyed out carefully be- fore the boats leave the land, and are examined from time to time by experienced divers. Latterly, the sup- ply has fallen off so greatly that a recent regulation has directed the fishery to be discontinued for some years, a precaution which is very necessary, as the beds are becoming exhausted. The fisheries in the Persian Gulf are carried on in exactly the same manner as those of Ceylon. In ancient times they were known to the Macedonians, and Seleu- cus, king of the Syrians, gave the revenues derived therefrom to one of his satraps. Here, besides the sharks, the divers have to contend with the sword-fishes, which are even more dangerous. Formerly the Portu- guese had possession of the Persian Gulf fisheries, but they are now in the hands of the native rulers ; and it is said that as many as 30,000 persons are employed on them. The Persian Gulf pearls are inferior in colour to those found at Ceylon ; in commerce they are termed " Bombay pearls," as they are mostly sold there. The produce of the fisheries on the coast of the Sulu Islands principally goes to China. The Red Sea fisheries, which in the time of the Ptolemies were immensely pro- ductive, now produce very few pearls. Great quantities of pearls come from Panama and California, and there is good reason to believe that the fisheries in these parts were well known to the ancient 194 The Peart. Mexicans, for we learn from the old Spanish histories that the Aztec kings had in their possession immense numbers of fine pearls, and appeared to be well ac- quainted with the sources from whence they were de- rived.* Pearls are also found in mussel-shells in the rivers of Scotland, Germany, France, Sweden, and Russia. These are generally of a dull and leaden hue, without lustre even when white, and are known in commerce by the name of Scotch pearls. Many experiments have been made with the view of ascertaining the length of time required to produce large pearls, and the results would lead to the belief that many years are necessary to develope them. From the most remote ages the pearl has been con- sidered one of the richest gifts of nature. It is spoken of in the Book of Job, ch. xxviii., and in the Proverbs of Solomon, ch. iii. Hindu mythology ascribes to the god Vishnu the discovery or creation of pearls, and the numerous idols or gods and goddesses connected with this ancient faith were formerly adorned with them. The ancient Persians, Egyptians, Babylonians, and other oriental nations, held the pearl in great esteem. From these the Romans became acquainted with them, and the mania for their possession grew so great that they were sold for the most fabulous prices : when Pompey con- quered Mithridates, he found in his treasury, besides * The Spaniards, by the conquest of Peru and Mexico, came into possession of immense quantities . and the palace of Monte- zuma is reported to have been studded with emeralds and pearls. The Pearl. 195 several crowns of this material, a portrait of that king, consisting of pearls in mosaic. Seneca exclaims against die shameful extravagance of Roman ladies in this parti- cular. They termed a drop pearl " unio," and wore a pair in the ear just as ladies do at the present day. The story of Cleopatra's pearls is too well known to require repetition here. The two halves of the second gem, by order of the Emperor Severus, went to adorn the statue of Venus in the Pantheon. Pliny places the pearl next to the diamond in value, and supposes the former to proceed from drops of dew swallowed by the oyster. In China, pearls are used as medicine ; a belief exist- ing among orientals that they possess great virtues in syncopes, fluxes of blood, etc. The pearl in Hindo- stanee is called "mod." In Bengal, at one time, virgins wore them on their arms as a preservative of virtue. One of the finest pearls at present in existence is called La Peregrina. It was sold to Philip IV. of Spain, in 1625, and is said now to be in the possession of a Rus- sian princess. The Shah of Persia has a pearl valued at ^"60,000, and the Imauin of Muscat one for which he refused ^"30,000. The pearl necklace of the Empress of the French is one of die finest known, a remark equally applicable to diat presented to Her Majesty by the East India Company. A very large necklace was presented to die Princess of Prussia on her marriage, but the pearls are misshapen, and of inferior quality. The Marquis of Abercorn, it may be stated, possesses a matchless drop-pearl of great size. 196 The Pearl. ON THE VALUE AND DISCRIMINATION OF PEAKLS The beauty and value of pearls depend on their form, colour, texture (technically called " skin"), transparency (or water) , and lustre. A pearl, to be perfect, must pos- sess the following qualifications : 1. It must be perfectly round or drop-shaped, seeming as if fashioned, or turned, into shape. 2. It must have a perfectly pure white colour. 3. It must be slightly transparent. 4. It must be free from specks, spots, or blemish. 5. It must possess, the peculiar lustre characteristic of the gem. These rules, however, only hold good in Europe, as in India and China the bright yellow colour is preferred. When a single round or drop-shaped pearl is examined, it is easy, by means of comparison, for even an inexpe- rienced buyer to judge for himself. Not so when, how- ever, as is frequently the case, they are strung in a row or as a necklace j in this case the pearl-stringer arranges the pearls in such a gradation of colour that the tints imperceptibly blending they appear of one hue, when perhaps, if isolated, they would show several tints. The American pearls, called in commerce " Panama oearls," although appearing at first sight very white, nave almost invariably a sort of blackness under the skin, which renders their colour far inferior to the pure white hue of the oriental pearl. In fact, the Panama pearls have often a sort of quicksilvery appearance. The Pearl. 197 In the annexed Tables it has been endeavoured to give an approximate value of the different sizes j but it must be remembered that the pearl, more than any other gem, is liable to fluctuation in price. For the last six- teen years the tendency has been towards a rise ; and, in consequence of the Ceylon fishery being for a time interdicted, the price of pearls seems likely still further to increase. It would be almost useless to give any value for drop pearls, as when of large size and fine quality they are of so rare occurrence as to command fancy prices ; still, as a slight guide, it may be mentioned that perfect white drop pearls, of 80 to 100 grains, may be estimated at from *j to sSi r per grain ; those of 50 to 80 grains, at from \ to sB'j per grain ; and those of 30 to 50 grains, at from aS^ to g$ per grain ; smaller sizes bring from 2O,y. to 6os. per grain. Misshapen pieces are called "barrok pearl" (perles baroques), and are sold at per ounce; the price varying from sSio to sS2oo per ounce, depending on quality, colour, and size. Pearls of the commonest description are exported in great numbers to China, where they are used medicinally ; the next quality are sold in Poland, the south of Germany, Russia, and the Danubian Principalities, where they are worn by the peasantry. It may be mentioned that pearls are much more generally worn on the Continent than in this country. The pink pearls, which are found principally in North America and the West India Islands, bring from 198 The Pearl. $s. to 40,9. per grain. They seldom occur of regular shape, or even form, and when bad are not very unlike decayed teeth. Although termed "pink," they ate of all colours, from red to pale yeHow, and not unfre- quently of a dead white, like a polished fish's eye. Black and lead-coloured pearls bring a large price when fine in shape, and of even colour ; some persons prefer the leaden or plumbago tint, others, the shining greenish-black ; they bring from 3^. to 6os. per grain. Grey pearls are worth very little, being nearly useless for mounting in jewellery. Pearls deteriorate by age, contact with acids, gas, and noxious vapours of all sorts. Various means for restor- ing them to their pristine beauty have been suggested and tried, but experience shows these to be useless, and only more likely still further to injure than to re- store. The best way to preserve pearls is to wipe them with a clean linen cloth after being worn, depositing them carefully wrapped in linen in a closed box. Unbored pearls are termed "virgin," and those which have suffered from wear receive the name of "widows." Tiie^operation of boring requires great care, and is far better done in India than here ; the holes there being drilled much smaller and more straight. In drilling, a bow and string is used with a very fine drill, the pearl being held between two pieces of wood. This operation must be performed slowly and with great caution, so as not to run the risk of breaking the pearl in halves. Occasionally a pearl adheres to the shell ; in this case Prices of the Pearl. 199 .t is cut out, and the shell part polished off; this r however, notwithstanding the care that may have been employed, leaves a certain portion of mother-of-peail adherent, which reduces its value immensely. Occa- sionally the pearl is a sort of wart, hollow inside ; in this case it is called cog de perle, and is of very little value. The curious articles of jewellery by Dinglinger, in the Green Vaults of Dresden, mounted in gold and enamel, to carry out the fanciful resemblance of the pearl to some object, are made of this substance. A pearl of this description, of the form of a strawberry, was shown at the Exhibition of 1862, and was subsequently sold to an English merchant for a ridiculously exorbitant price, its intrinsic value being very trifling. When round pearls are used for setting in articles oi jewellery, they are split in halves. Those flat on one side, and convex on the other, are much used ; they are called button pearls (perles boutons), and are worth about 25 per cent, less than round pearls of the same size and quality. Jeffries adopted the same mode of valuation for pearls as for diamonds, namely, multiplying the square of the weight by 8$., at which he values a 4-grain pearl. His method of estimation may have been a correct one at that time ; but as it would not be so now, I have sim- ply given the market price of the day, which, it must be noted, may rise or fall according to circumstances. Annexed is a list of the valuation of the pearls taken possession of by the Directory of France in 1791, made, 2OO Prices of the Pearl. at their order, by the most celebrated jewellers of the time, which may prove interesting. Valuation of Pearls in the Crown Treasury of France, 1791. A perfect white round virgin pearl of 388 grains . . 8000 2 pear-shaped pearls each ... 214 . i2>ooo 4 together ... 399 . . 2560 6 round pearls ,, ... 772$ . 2400 3 . . . 232 . . 880 5 . . . 4o8Tif . . 1200 7 . . . 464^ . . 1320 8 . . . 628* . . 960 6 . . . 392* . . 728 11 . . . 7121 . . 448 At the present day, these pearls, which doubtless were of the purest and finest description, would be worth a far larger sum than the amounts named. The prices given in the following Table are approxi- mate ones for perfectly white pure round pearls, of a smooth and lustrous skin, perfectly free from specks or discoloration of any sort. A pearl of i grain is worth from . . . . zs. to zs. 6d. z 6s. 6d. 75. 6d. ,,3 .... i2s. i6s. ,,4 225. 28s. 5 35*- 45- 6 55*. 655. ,,8 gos. nos. Prices of the Pearl. 2,01 A pearl of 10 grains is worth from 8 to 9 12 12 ,,15 H > ..... 15 18 16 ..... 20 30 1 8 ..... 30 40 >, 20 40 50 24 ,, ..... 60 72 THE SLIGHTEST TINGE OF COLOUR, SPECKS, IN- EftUALITY OF SHAPE OK OF LUSTRE, REDUCE THESE VALUES CONSIDERABLY. Round pearls above this weight are of such rare occur- rence, and command such exceptional prices, that it would be useless to attempt any scale of valuation. The above Table of Value refers to the year 1865. A new Table, showing the present value of pearls, is given in the additional matter at the commencement of the work. SUBSTANCES USED IN JEWELLERY NOT PROPERLY PRECIOUS STONES. LTHOUGH such substances as jet, coral, moon-stone, lapis lazuli, malachite, etc., do not properly belong to the family of gems ; yet, as they are used for personal adornment, and possess some value, a short description of them may not be out of place in this treatise. MOON-STONE. Formerly the moon-stone was in fashion in this coun- try, although it is now seldom seen. This variety of felspar or orthoclase has a chatoyant reflection, resem- bling that of the cat's-eye, and is of a pearly-white colour. A description called "adularia," from the name of one of the peaks of the St. Gothard, where Lapis Lazuli. 203 it is found, is of inferior colour to the best moon-stones, which come principally from Ceylon. In hardness it is 6 hi Mohs's scale 3 the specific gra- vity, 2 '4 to 2 '6; the lustre vitreous, inclining to pearly. Crystals of large size are seldom found. The chemical composition is : Silica . . 64-00 Alumina . 19-43 Lime 0-42 Potash 14-8 r Magnesia 0-20 Water 1-14 The stones are cut en calochon, and at present are of very trifling value. An opaque and green variety of the orthoclase, deriving its tint from an admixture of copper, comes from Siberia, where it is called " amazon- stone;" but it is very little known in England. The moon-stone is also known by the name of water or Ceylon opal. At one period considerable value was at- tached to this stone, the ancients employing it frequently in their works of art. LAPIS LAZULI. This beautifully-coloured stone has been employed from the earliest times for various ornamental purposes. It is rarely found in crystals, and when it does so occur the specimens are small, and of the rhombic dodecahe- dron form. It has an imperfect dodecahedral cleavage, 2,04 Lapis Lazuli. and is found in masses; it has a hardness of 5*5, a specific gravity of 2*38 to 2*45, a subvitreous lustre of a rich blue colour, and is opaque. . The composition of the Persian variety is, according to Klaproth : Silica ..... ... 46-0 Sulphuric acid 4-0 Alumina 14*5 Peroxide of iron 3^0 Lime . 17*5 Water z'o Carbonic acid jo'o It fuses to a white glass, and, if calcined and reduced to powder, loses its colour, and gelatinizes in muriatic acid j with borax it effervesces, and forms a colourless glass. Lapis lazuli is usually found in granite or calcareous limestone, with iron pyrites, often disseminated through the mass, which, when polished, gives it the gold- spotted appearance it often exhibits : the finest quality comes from Persia and Beloochistan ; it is also found in China, Bucharia, and in Siberia. Latterly large quan- tities of very inferior quality and colour have been brought from Chili. The deep-coloured pieces are the most esteemed, being extensively used for studs, brooches, and other articles of jewellery, as well as for vases, ornamental furniture, mosaic work, etc. ; when ground to powdei, they form the valuable pigment called ultramarine. Latterly, however, chemists have Lapis Lazuli. 105 discovered an artificial substitute, possessing exactly the same constituents and almost the same colour, which can be sold for a three-hundredth part of the price of the genuine ultramarine. This stone was well known in ancient times, and was, doubtless, the sap- phire of the Greeks and Romans. Pliny says: 'In sapphiris aurum punctis collucet coerulis ; similis est coelo sereno, propter aurea puncta stellis ornato : ' which may be translated ' In the blue sapphire shine golden specks ; it is like a serene sky adorned with stars, on account of the golden points.' In China and India this stone is carved into cups, vases, dagger-handles, etc. Many fine specimens still exist in the old Italian and Spanish churches, in slabs, pillars, and various adornments to the altars and shrines; also as panels, on which the pictures of saints, etc., have been painted. In the Russian palace of Zarskoe-Selo there is a room, made by order of Catherine II., the walls of which are entirely covered with slabs of lapis and amber. At the present day it is much used in de- corative furniture and mosaic work. In ancient times lapis was used in medicine as a purge. The Aiabic name is Azul, meaning blue, whence pro- bably is derived the name lazuli. The value of the finest lapis of a deep blue, not too dark, without any admixture of white or golden specks varies from 10,9. to $os. per ounce, according to the size of the piece. Formerly, when used for the manufacture of ultramarine, it was worth much more. 2oo Malachite. MALACHITE. This beautiful copper ore, in such great demand for ornamental purposes, is a hydrous carbonate of copper, and, apart from its value as a stone, yields so large an amount of metal that it is extensively used for smelting. According to Klaproth, its analysis is Carbonic acid .... . . i8'o Protoxide of copper 70*5 Water 11-5 In a glass tube before the blowpipe it blackens, and yields a globule of copper ; in acids and ammonia it dissolves with effervescence. Its hardness is 3*5 j spe- cific gravity 375 lustre vitreous, sometimes nearly ada- mantine, occasionally silky, and often dull ; colour green, spotted and banded with other shades of the same co- lour ; it takes a very high polish. Out of the thousands of tons annually found, a very small proportion is ad- apted for ornamental purposes, the compact variety sus- ceptible of a high polish being very rare. The finest quality comes from the mines of Prince Demidoff, in Siberia. The doors and vases of malachite exhibited by the Prince in the Exhibition of 1851 created a great sensation, and first drew public attention to the sub- stance. It is also found in the Burra-Burra mines in Australia, in Africa, Cornwall, Hungary, and the Tyrol ; but all these varieties are far inferior in solidity and beauty of marking to Siberian malachite. This stone is some- Labradorite, o? .Labrador Felspar. 2,07 times used in jewellery and in cabinet work, but is not of any great value. LABRADORITE, OR LABRADOR FELSPAR. Although not commonly used in jewellery, this stone is well known; and possesses in some degree the brilliant multicoloured light-flashes of the opal. It belongs to the triclinic system of crystallization, and is found massive. Its hardness is 6; specific gravity, 2-675 lustre vitreous (in one direction pearly); easily cleavable, and is usually greyish in colour, sometimes nearly white. The chemical composition of the variety from Labrador is, according to Klaproth Silica 5575 Alumina 26-50 Peroxide of iron 1*25 Lime 1 1 'oo Soda 4-00 Water 0-50 Before the blowpipe on charcoal it acts like felspar, but fuses rather more easily to a colourless glass. When pulverized, it is easily dissolved by heated muriatic acid which does not attack felspar. It is found variously transparent, from translucent to semi-opaque. This stone is met with on the coast of Labrador, also in Canada, Norway, and Sweden; occasionally in the lava of Etna and Vesuvius. It is susceptible of a fine polish, and some specimens, owing to their chatoyant reflection, are very beautiful. 208 Jade, or Nephrite. JET. This substance is a variety of coal much used in England for mourning jewellery : it is much blacker, tougher, and harder than the ordinary Cannel coal, and has a considerable lustre when polished. Its hardness is i\5, and specific gravity 1*3, and it has a conchoidal fracture. Jet is found in detached pieces in clay on the coast of Yorkshire, near Whitby, on the Baltic coast (where it is called black amber), in the forest of Ardennes, and in the Pyrenees. Great quantities of the manufactured jet are sold in Spain and Turkey. This substance is the gagates known to Pliny, Theophrastus, and other ancient authors, and look its name from the river Gagus, in Syria, where in ancient times it was found. Boetius says of this stone, that it secures men from nocturnal fears, spectres, and ghosts ; and Cardanus relates that the saints wore bracelets and rosaries of this substance to number their prayers. In manufacturing this material it requires to be frequently moistened with water, for if it be allowed to get hot by the friction of the cutting or polishing-wheel, it flies into pieces. It is polished with tripoli and oil ; the final polish being given by the hand, with dry tripoli powder. JADE, OR NEPHRITE. Although seldom used for purposes of jewellery in this country, throughout the whole of Asia this stone Jade, or Nephrite. 209 is an extremely favourite one. It is a hard, compact, translucent, and very tough stone, breaking with a splintery fracture and glistening surface. The colour varies from a creamy white to a dark green j die hard- ness is 6*0 to 7*0; specific gravity, 2*9 to 3-15 it is slightly unctuous to the touch, and fuses with difficulty before the blowpipe at the thinnest edges. Its composition is variable j as it is not a distinct mineral, two analyses are given here : Analysis by Analysis by Kattner. Schafhautl. Silica 5'5 58*91 Magnesia .... 31*00 . . . 22*42 Lime ... 12*28 Alumina lo'oo . '. . 1*32 Peroxide of iron . . 5-50 . . . 2*70 Oxide of chrome . . 0*05 ... Water 2*75 . . . 0*25 Peroxide of manganese ... 0*91 Potash ' . . . o'8o Jade is found in Egypt, New Zealand, Corsica, in North America, and in China. The name nephrite is derived from the Greek vf(j>pos, a kidney, from the power it was reputed to possess of curing diseases of that organ. In India, China, and Turkey it is carved into dagger- and sword-handles, cups, ornamental vases, etc., and frequently inlaid with precious stones. The most favourite colour is the pale greenish-grey, good spe- cimens realizing a large price. Some fine examples of jade are exhibited* in the South Kensington Museum, and large quantities of ornamental objects in this sub- p 2 1 o Amber. stance have lately come to Europe from Japan. In New Zealand it is carved into axe- and spear-heads, which are ground to a very fine edge. The variety called soft jade, which is frequently sold for the real, is a kind of stearite, or soapstone ; its inferior hardness will, however, show the difference to the most inexperienced observer. AMBER. This fossilized gum or resin is found in irregular masses without cleavage, having a very low degree of hardness 2' to 2*5, and a specific gravity of only ro8i ; its lustre is resinous or waxy, and varies from trans- parent to opaque. * Its composition is Carbon 80*99 Hydrogen 7-31 Oxygen . . . 6-73 Calcium 1*54 Alumina no Silica 0-63 It burns readily with a bright yellow flame and gives an agreeable odour, leaving a black carbonaceous residue. At 287 it fuses and is decomposed, yielding water, an empyreumatic oil, and succinic acid. It acquires nega- tive electricity by friction, and is soluble in alcohol. Amber is found in abundance on the Prussian coast of the Baltic, from Dantzig to Memelj also on the coast of Denmark, in Sweden, Norway, Moravia, Poland, Swit- zerland, and in France ; it also occurs embedded in clay, Amber. 211 on the coast of Essex, Suffolk, and Norfblic j in various parts ot Asia, and many other places. In the United States it has also been found in the Greensand, both imbedded in the soil and in lignite. The colour varies from white and pale yellow to a deep brownish-orange. It is very brittle, and yields to the knife. The experiments made by Sir David Brewster, Goe- pert, and others, have established the fact of its vegetable origin, which was surmised by Pliny. Goepert calls the trees which produced it Pinites succinifer, and he supposes amber to have been derived from at least eight other kinds of plants, and enumerates not less than 163 species of insects, most of which are unknown to us, except by what we can learn from their remains encased in amber. Yellow amber beads used formerly to be in fashion :n this country, and in Turkey and other Asiatic coun- tries the material is still prized, saddles, bridles, and arms being adorned with it. In Oriental countries it may frequently be seen inlaid with gold and precious stones. It is also much used for the mouthpieces of pipes, it being the custom in the East to have the pipe lighted by a servant, the amber being thought incapable of trans- mitting infection. The most valuable variety is nearly opaque, and resembling fresh butter in colour. Amber is also employed in chemistry ; the oil of amber and succinic acid being obtained from it by dis- tillation, the residue serving for the manufacture of black varnish. The name amber is probably derived P 2 212 Amber. trom the Aratxc word 'anabaron,' which designates this substance. Amber was well known to the ancients ; its name in Greek was rjkeicrpov, from its power of attracting small substances when rubbed j in Latin succinum, from a supposition that it was the gum of a tree j also lynciirion, because some supposed that it was a deposit of the urine of the lynx that of the males giving a deep, and that of the females a pale tint. Pliny records its medicinal use, and relates that necklaces used to be hung about the necks of young children, to preserve them against the powers of witchcraft and sorcery. The Greeks had a tradition concerning the origin of amber, that it arose from the tears of the sisters of Phaeton, who, lamenting his death, were turned into poplar-trees, and poured forth perpetual tears into the river Eridanus or Padus, which were congealed into the succinum or amber. Hence the lines in Ovid's fable of the Heliades. as given in the second book of his Metamorphoses : ' Inde fluunt lachrymae ; stillataque sole rigescunt De ramis electra novis, quae lucidus amnis Excipit et nuribus mittit gestanda Latinis.' Amber is sometimes found in large masses : a piece weighing fourteen pounds is, with other fine specimens, in the Royal Museum at Berlin : the Prussian govern- ment reserves the sole right of searching for amber within its dominions, guarding the monopoly with very stringent regulations. It produces, however, not more than 10,000 dollars, about ^"1500, yearlv. Coral. 1 1 3 CORAL. Coral is the production of gelatinous mollusks belong- ing to the family of 'polypi.' They form submarine forests of leafless branches in many parts of the globe, and in the Southern hemisphere increase occasionally to such an extent as to form islands, and to- seriously ob- struct navigation. Coral is found of several colours all shades of red and pink, green, brown, and yellow, as well as white and black. Its peculiar plant-like form formerly caused the belief that it was of vegetable origin, a belief which is even now current amongst some, although the researches of distinguished naturalists have identified the form of the insects which produce this wonderful phenomenon of nature. These ' polypi ' re- semble an eight-pointed star, notched on each point, with the mouth in the centre, and appear to have a marvellous organization common to all the others on the same branch ; if one of them be disturbed, the others instantly draw back along with the one touched, so that the separate mollusks on the branch seem to form one body. In certain respects these insects vary in different localities. The coral islands and enormous reefs, which are growing every day with wonderful rapidity, are the- work of these minute objects. Although, as said above coral is found in the seas of many parts of the globe, yet the coral adapted for purposes of ornament comes almost entirely from the Mediterranean, and is found principally on the African coasts. The beds lie at a considerable 2 1 4 Coral. depth, sometimes 700 or 800 feet beneath the surface oi the sea, which depth causes the operation of fishing for it to be a difficult and tedious operation ; it is ob- tained by means of nets and iron drags. Although at present the coral fishing is carried on principally by the Italians and Maltese, the industry is of French origin. As early as the year 1450 there existed at Calle a French establishment for the fishery of coral, and this company had a monopoly, on the condition of only employing Proven9al sailors. In 1791 the trade was thrown open ; in 1/94, however, the French ships were protected by a duty laid on those of all other nations. At the present time, more than 150 barques from various ports are employed every season in this fishery. The amount of business carried on in this substance is surprising. Im- mense quantities are yearly exported to China, India, and Persia, where coral is ranked as one of die most precious productions of nature. In some parts of India ivorm-eaten coral is in great demand, and thousands of pounds worth of this commodity, which in European estimation would be worthless, is yeaily sent there. One house in Naples alone exports ^8000 worth to Calcutta, and the total value yearly imported by India is said to amount to ,200,000. Coral is principally cut into beads, and boutons or pieces cut en calochon ; drops for earrings ; also in leaves, flowers, and various other shapes, for making the carved ornaments seen in Naples and Genoa ; into charms, worn in bunches, which are supposed to avert the influence Coral. 215 of the evil eye, occasionally into cameos, although not so frequently as was the case fifty years ago ; and into stick and whip mounts and handles. The cutting and working of coral occupies a considerable number of per- sons ; the three most important factories being at Ge- noa, Leghorn, and Marseilles. The branches of coral are cut in the most advantageous manner, according to their shape and freedom from fissures and defects, and after- wards ground into beads, etc., and polished with oil. The red coral, once the most valuable, is now worth far less than the colour which formerly was nearly worth- less the pale delicate pink, similar to that of the inside of a pale rose-leaf. Coral of this tint is very valuable ; a large bead or drop will realize gS^o to \Q, and smaller pieces are worth from ^120 to ^150 the ounce. This stone or substance is not nearly so much sought after in Europe as formerly ; and, as mentioned before, the great bulk goes to the East, where coral is much worn in turbans, and on the handles of daggers and swords. The beads are used by the Brahmins and Fakirs for ro- saries, and the dead are frequently adorned with coral ornaments, to prevent evil spirits from taking possession of the corpse. The deep red colour, which harmonizes well with the olive skin of the Indian, is preferred ; and few of the richer sort of Indian girls are without one or two coral ornaments. Coral is also worn in Spain, and in the West India Islands by the negroes. The white, yellow, and black varieties are of very little value. Coral is affected by heat and acids, and is frequently 216 Means of Ascertaining imitated by bone, horn, and ivory, stained with cinnabar, also by a composition of gypsum, gum, and cinnabar. One of the Greek names of coral was yopyeia, from the tradition that the blood dropping from the head of Medusa, which Perseus had deposited on some branches near the sea-shore, becoming hard, was taken by the sea-nymphs and planted in the sea. Pliny calls it ' dendrites' and ' corallum,' and it was dedicated by the Romans to Jupiter and Apollo. In the Middle Ages it was used in medicine as an astringent, and given to newly-born infants ; it was also thought to deepen in colour when worn by a man, and to become paler when worn by a woman. Both Boetius and Dioscorides sagely report it as efficacious against the delusions of the devil tvhen worn in the form of an amulet. ON THE MEANS OF ASCERTAINING THE IDENTITY OF GEMS. The details given under the head of each stone afford ready and simple means for determining, un- aided, the identity of any particular stone ; and a com parison of the results of the experiment, with the dif- ferent headings in Table A, will show at a glance in which division the crystal or cut-stone experimented on should be classed. the Identity of Gems. 217 The pink topaz is frequently confounded with the balas ruby, the tourmaline with the emerald, the ja- cinth with the cinnamon stone, and the jargoon and white sapphire with the diamond ; not only by ama- teurs, but even by persons supposed to be acquainted with precious stones. A very little attention to the facts noted under each head, both in the Table A and in the description of each stone, will prevent the errors into which many persons fall, and the possibility of the frauds to which they are occasionally liable. In the first place, it may be taken as a general rule that stones, either rough or cut, which are affected by die file, are not precious stones ; and to persons who are accustomed to its use, the difference of the resist- ance, and of the grating sound occasioned, affords a fair criterion of hardness. In the use of this tool, however, care must be taken not to file the delicate edges 5 as even the diamond, the hardest of bodies, might chip, if subjected to the tool on the girdle, which, as has before been said, is as thin as the edge of a knife. For example, supposing it were wished to ascertain what gem a white stone was : if it were scratched by a sapphire, it would at once be seen, on reference to the Table A, that it could not be a diamond ; if its specific gravity were less than 3 '9, it could not be a ruby or sapphire ; if it did not acquire electricity by heat, it could be neither a topaz nor a jargoon ; and if it scratched glass, it would be seen that it must be eithei a beryl, or quartz, or rock-crystal. For the pur- 2 1 8 Means of Ascertaining pose of ascertaining these facts, a crystal of sapphire (which may be obtained easily and without expense), a piece of quartz or rock crystal, a piece of hard flint- glass, and a pair of scales for the purpose of taking the specific gravity, are all that is necessary. Those persons who are in possession of an electrometer or a polarizing apparatus, have valuable adjuncts to the simple tests here indicated. A very common mode of fraud, practised on inex- perienced persons in cut stones, is the "doublet," or " semi-stone." In this case the top of the stone is ge- nuine and the under-part glass, joined together artisti- cally with cement j sometimes, for instance, the top is sapphire, and the under-part a gem of less value, such as garnet. When set, these stones are very difficult to detect, and frequently deceive the most experienced. When the under-part is of glass, however, the applica- tion of the file to the under as well as upper surface will, of course, at once show the imposition. Set stones which are set with a back are generally of pale colour or small lustre, often set with coloured foil, to enhance their beauty. Sometimes, however, stones which are set open, or, to use the technical term, ' azur,' have the in- terior of the setting enamelled or painted, to throw a tint of colour into the gem j or, in the case of the dia- mond, have the inside of the setting of polished silver, to correct a yellowish tinge. In all these cases, to be forewarned is to be forearmed, and a careful examination will prevent any one being deceived by these means. the Identity of Gems. 219 "Doublets" are frequently sold by the Cingalese at Colombo to Europeans, and to the passengers by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers ; sometimes blue glass, cut into facets, and sent there from Birmingham and Paris, are palmed off for the real stones. Persons residing in countries producing precious stones may find these hints of service, and, if attended to, prevent their incurring expense in sending home worthless pebbles, with the mistaken idea that they are valuable gems. In one instance, a man actually left his business, and, at a very considerable expense, came to this country to sell a quantity of 'stones, which he was assured were diamonds; but which, on examination, proved to be ' nova minas/ or nodules of rock-crystal. In the case of pearls, which are frequently imitated with marvellous skill, it will be seen that false pearls are much lighter than real ones ; that generally the former are brittle (although some are made solid, of fish-scales, and do not break so easily) ; and the holes, which in the real pearl are drilled very small, and have a sharp edge, in the false are larger, and have a blunt edge. In concluding these hints on the identity of gems, the author would remark that to no honest and respect' able jewel merchant can the publication of such facts prove prejudicial ; on the contrary, he is convinced that the more the public are enabled to test by their senses, or such simple means as may be readily available, the truth of statements made to them, the more will their appreciation of jewels increase. 22C TAB LI TABLE OF THE DISTINGUISHING Name and Colour. Lustre. Specific Gravity. Hardness. No. in Scale o Hard- ness. Composition. System of Crystalliza- tion. DIAMOND. Adamantine; 3-4 to 3-6 Scratches al 10 Pure Carbon. Monometric White, pink, yellow, red, blue, green, black, reflects prismatic other pre- cious stones or cubical. orange, brown, opales- colours. cent BOART. CARBONATE (compact None. massive variety). SAPPHIRE. f White, blue, violet. Vitreous: very lively. 3-9 to 4-2 Scratched by diamond ; 9 Alumina . 98'5 Oxide of Hexagonal or rhom- 1 RUBY, pink, red. scratches Iron . 1-0 bohedral. violet-red. all others. Lime. . . 0-5 tjj TOPAZ, Oriental, "^ . yellow. o ^ AMETHYST, Orieii- . tal. purple, violet. ? EMERALD, Oriental, | green, generally n I pale. CHRYSOBERYL, or ORIENTAL CHRYSO- Vitreous ; sometimes 3- to 3-8 Scratched by sapphire, 8-5 Alumina . 80-2 Trimetric or Gluctna . . 19'8 rhombic. LITE. pearly. etc.; prismatic. Bright pale - green, greenish - yellow, red- scratches quartz (Trace of Per- oxide of Iron. dish-brown. readily. of Oxide of ALEXANDRITE, when Lead and Cop- exhibiting a reddish, per, depending transmittent light. on colour and CYMOPHANE. or locality.) CHRYSOBERYL CAT'S EYE, when showing an opalescence like a cat's eye SPINEL. Vitreoiw. 3-3 Scratched by 8 Alumina . 69-01 Monometric Dark-red, white, blue, sapphire ; Magnesia . 26 -21 or cubical. PLEONASTE or CEY- scratches quartz Protoxide of Iron . 0-71 LAN1TE, black. readily. Silica . 2-02 RUBICELLE, orange. ^ Oxide of BALAS RUBY, rose-red. Chrome. MO TOPAZ. Vitreous. a-6 to S-6 Scratched by 8 Silica . . 34-01 rrimetric or White, greenish, yel- low, orange, cinnamon, bluish, pink. sapphire ; scratches Alumina . 58-38 Fluorine . 15-06 Traces of metallic rhombic. easily. oxides. A. CHARACTERISTICS OF GEMS. Form of Crystal. Refraction. Refractive Index. Dispersive Power. Electric Properties. Fusibility. Diaphaneity. Transparent, and trans- lucent; Carbonate opaque. Cube, Octahedron, Rhombic dodecahedron, Tetrahedron, Hexa-octahedron. Single. White 2-455 Brown 2-487 0-38 Acquires positive electricity by friction; non-con- ductor of electricity. Infusible ; volatilized by long- continued heat. Hexagonal prism; often pointed at each end. Doubla, in a small de- gree. 1-765 0-026 Acquires electncity by friction and retains it several hours. Transparent. In flat hexagonal crys- tals ; generally in rolled pebbles. Double. 1-760 0-033 Acquires electricity by friction, and retains it several hours. Infnslble, alone. Transparent and semi, transpa- rent Octahedron, Rhombic dodecahedral octahedron, Tri-octahedron. Single. 1-755 to 1-810 0-040 Infusible, alone. Transparent, translucent. Right-rhombic prism, Octahedral rhombic prism. Double, in a slight de- gree. 1-635 0-025 Acquires electricity by friction and heat. Infusible. Transparent, Tanslucent. 1 TABLE OF THE DISTINGUISHING Name and Colour. ' Lustre. Specific Gravity. Hardness. Ho. in Scale of Hard- ness. Composition. System of Crystalliza- tion. EMERALD. Fine green. Vitreous. 2'67 to 2-75 Scratched by spinel ; 7-5 to 8- Silica . . 68-50 Alumina . 1575 Hexagonal or rhom- BERYL or AQUAMA- scratching Glucina . 12-50 bohedral. RINE, pale sea-green, quartz Oxide of blue, white, yellow, (specimens Iron . . 1-00 rarely pink. vary). Lime . . 0-26 HYACINTH or Vitreous 4-07 to 4-70 Scratches 7-5 Silica . . 33-0 Dimetric or JACINTH, brownish-yel- (almost ad- quartz Zirconia . 668 square low, brownish-red, cin- amantine) . slightly. Peroxide of prismatic; namon. Iron . . 0-10 pyramidal. JARGOON, various shades of green, yellow, white, brown. GARNET. Vitreous, in- 3-5 to 4-3 Scratches 16-5 to 7"5 Silica . . 38-25 Monometric fALMANDINE, vio- 6 let-red. clining to resinous. Alumina . 19 35 or cubical. Red Oxide o CARBUNCLE, red, I of Iron . 7-33 3 brownish. Lime . . 31-75 3 CINNAMON- Magnesia . 2-40 j STONE, white, yel- Protoxide low, orange. of Man- | PYROPE, vermilion ganese . 0-50 p* or Bohemian gar- | t. net TOURMALINE. Vitreous. 2-99 to 3-3 Scratches 7- to 7-5 Fluorine . 2'2& Hexagonal Green, red, brown, yel- low, blue, black, some- quartz slightly Silica . . 38-85 HoracicAcid 8-25 or rhom- bohedral. times white. Alumina . 31 '32 Red Oxide of Iron . 1-27 Ma-iieMa . 13-89 Lime . 1'60 Soda. . . 1-28 Potash . . 0-2(i l QUARTZ or ROCK CRYSTAL. Vitreous. 2-65 Scratches glass. 7 Silica . . 99-37 Alumina . Hexagonal White. bohedral. AMETHYST, violet. 1 Amethyst . CAIRNGORM, yellow, brown. jSilica . . 97-50 CHRYSOPRASE, fine Alumina . 025 apple-green. Red Oxide CAT'S-KYE, having cha- of Iron . 0-50 toyant reflection. Oxide of PLASMA, deep olive- Man- green. ganese 0'25 JASPER, yellow, red, green, black, brown. 223 CHARACTERISTICS OF GEMS Continued Form of Crystal. Refraction. Refractive Inder Dispersive Power. Electric j Propjrties Fusibility. 1 Diaphaneity, Hexagonal prism. Double {very feeble). 1-585 0-026 Acquires positive electricity Slightly fusible be- fore the Transparent. by friction blowpipe. Long square prism, Short square prism, Long square octahedron, The prisms often doubly terminated with square Double, in a very high degree, es- pecially in the Jar- 1-990 0044 Do. do. Infusible before the blowpipe. Transparent to opaque. pyramids. goon oi Ceylon. i Rhombic dodecahedron, Simple. 1T69 0-053 Do. do. Fusible Transparent, Rhombic dodecahedral before the Opaque. cube, blowpipe. Trapezohedrcn, | Hexa-octahedron. Obtuse rhombohedron, Hexagonal prisms. Double. 1-625 0-028 Acquires positive and nega- Fusible. From trans, parent to opaque. tive elec- tricity by 1 i friction I and heat. i 1 Hexagonal prism, Bipyramidal, dodecahe- Double. 1549 0-026 Acquires positive electricitv by friction. Infusible. rransparent and trans, lucent. Many varie- ties nearly 1 opaque.) 224 TABLE OF THE DISTINGUISHING Name and Colour. Lustre. Specific Gravity. Hardness. Ko. in Scale of Hard- ness. Composition. Svstem of Crystalliza- tion. BLOODSTONE, dark- green, with red spots. CARNELION.red, white, yellow. AGATE, various colours. ONYX, bavins? black. brown,and white layers. SARDONYX, having red or brownish and white layers. MOCHA-STONE, having infiltrated Oxides of Iron or Manganese, producing dendritic ap- pearances. CHRYSOLITE. PERIDOT, olive-green. OLIVINE. Vitreous. 3-3 to 3-44 Scratched by quartz. 6- to 7- Silica . 39-73 Mam esia . 50'13 Protoxide Trimetric or rhombic. of Iron . 919 Oxide of Nickel . 0-32 Oxide of Man- ganese 0-09 Alumina . 0'22 TURQUOISE. Blue, green, white. Vitreous. 2-62 to 3- Scratches glass 6 Phos. Acid 27-34 Alumina . 47'45 None. feebly. Oxide of Copper . 2-05 Oxide of Iron . . 1-10 Oxide of Man- ganese . 0-50 Phosphate of Lime . 3 41 Water . . 18-18 OPAL. Colourless, red. white, green, grey, black, yel- Vitreous, In- clining to resinons. 2-0 to 2-3 Scratches glass slightly. 5-5to6'5 Silica . . 91-32 Water . . 8'68 None. low. (Iridescent.) Traces of mineral colouring-mat- ter. PEARL. White, yellow, pink, black, violet, brown, grey. Pearly. 2-5 to 2-7 Various. 2-5 to 3-5 Carbonate ofj Nona Lime, organic """ 1 | 225 JHARACTERISTICS OF GEMS Continued. Form of Crystal. Refraction. Refractive Dispersive Electric Index. Power. Properties. 1 1 Fusibility. | Diaphaneity. ' I Generally in rolled grains and pebbles. Double, 1-660 0-033 "electricity by friction. Infusible. Transparent and trans- lucent. None. ... ... Nonei. Infusible. Opaque. Translucent at edges. None, Nona. None. None. None. None. Infusible. Calcines by moderate heat. Semi - traus- Opaque ; sometimes semi- transpa- rent. 226 TABLE B. NAMES OF STONES IN DIFFERENT LANGUAGES. English. French. German. Italian. Agate. Agathe. Achat. Quarzo Agato. Almandine Garnet Grenat, Alman- j Almandin. Amandina. dine. Almandine Ruby. Rubis violet. j Violet Rubin. Rubino violetto. Amber. Succin, Ambre. Bernstein. Ambra giallo. Amethyst. Amethyste. ' Amethyst. i Ametista. Aquamarine. Acque-maiine. ; Aquamarin. Acquamarina. Asteria. Aste'rie. i Steinstein. Asteria. Aventurine. Aventurine. Aventuriii. j Aventurina. ] Balas Ruby. Rubis Balais. Balas Rubin. Rubino Balasso. BeryL ! Beryl. Bcryll. Berillo. Bloodstone. Jaspe sanguin. Jaspis. Elitropia. Boart. Boart. Diamant Boart. Boart. Cairngorm. Topaze ficossaise. Rauchstein. Topazio funioso. Carbonate of Dia- Carbonat. Diamantcarbonat. Carbonato di Dia- mond. mante. Carbuncle. Escarboucle, Gre- Karfunkel. Carbuncolo. nat cabuchon. Carnelion. Sardoine. Karneol. | Corniola. Cat's-eye. CEil de Chat, Katzenauge. Occhio di Gatto. Quarz chatoyant. Chrysoberyl. Chrysobe'ryl, ou Chrysoberyll. Crisoberillo. Chrysolite ori- entale. Names of Stones in Different Languages 227 English. French. German. Italian. Chalcedony. Chrysolite. Chrysoprase. Cinnamon stone. Coral. Corundum. Crystal. Calcedoine. Chrysolithe. Chrysoprase. Topaze fumee, rermeille. Corail. Corindon. distal de Roche. Chalcedon. Chrysolith. Chrysopras. Kaneelstein. Koralle. Korund. Bergkrystall. Calcedonio. Crisolito. Crisoprasio. Pietra cinnamomo. Corallo. Korund. Cristallo di Rocca. Diamond. Diamant. Diamant. Diamante, Emerald. Essonite. fimeraude. Vermeille. Smaragd. Essonit. Smeraldo. Essonite. Felspar. Fire Opal. Feldspath. Opale-Feu. Feldspath. Feuer Opal. Feldspato. Opalo. Garnet. Grenat. Granat. Granato. Hyacinth. Hyacinthe. Hyacinth. Giacinto. Indigo Sapphire. Saphir de Bresil. Mannlich Sapphir. Zaffiro. Jacinth or Hyacinth Jade. Jargoon. Jasper. Jet. Hyacinthe. Jade. Jargon. Jaspe. Jai'et. Hyacinth. Amazonstein. Zirkon. Jaspis. Gagat, Giacente. Pietra nefritica. Giacinto. Diaspro. Gagato. Labrador. Lapis Lazuli. Feldspathopalin. Lapis Lazuli. Labrador. Lazurstein. Feldspato opalino. Lapis Lazuli. 228 Names of Stones in Different Languages. English. French. German* Italian. Malachite. Malachite. Malachit. Malacito. Marcasite. Marcassite. Markasit. Marcassita. Moon-stone. Pierre de Lune. Mondstein. Pietra lunare. Moss Agate. Agate. Moss Achat. Agata. Olivine. Olivine. Olivin. Olivina. Onyx. Onyx. Onyx. Onice. Opal Opale. Opal. Opalo, Girasole, Scambaia. Pearl. Perle. Perle. Margarita, Perla. Peridot. Peridot. Peridot. Peridoto. Plasma. Plasme. Plasma. Plasma. Pyrope. Grenat. !>>? Granato. Quartz. Quartz. Quarz. Quarzo. Ruby. Rubis. Rubin. Rubino. Sapphire. Saphir. Sapphir. Zaffiro. Sardonyx. Sardoine Sardonyx. Comiola. Smokestone. Topaze snfume'e. Rauch Topaz. Pietra di Fuma. Spinel. Spinelle,ou Rubis. Spinel. Spinello. Star Sapphire, Saphir chatoyant. Stern Sapphir, Zaffiro-pianeta. Ruby, etc. oder Rubin. Topaz. Topaze. Topas. Topazio. Tourmaline. Tourmaline. Turmalin. Tormalina. Twrquoise. Turquoise. Turkis. Turchina. Sttto, Fossil 01 de la nouvelle von neuem Pel- Do. di Rocca Bone. Roche. sen, oder Zahn nuova. Turkis. 22,9 TABLE C. PRECIOUS STONES ARRANGED ACCORDING TO THEIR COLOURS White. Yellow (continued). Black. Diamond. Sapphire. Diamond. Beryl. Chrysoberyl. Sapphire. Sapphire. Quartz. Spinel. Rock-crystal. Garnet. Spinel. Green. Tourmaline. Tourmaline. Diamond. Quartz. Jargoon. Emerald. Topaz. Peridot or Olivine. Violet. Quartz. Sapphire. Amethyst. Chrysoberyl. Sapphire. Blue. Spinel. Ruby. Diamond. Aquamarine. Garnet. Sapphire. T.-Mimalin'-. Spinel. Spinel. Topaz. Chrysolite (caileu also Olivine). Opalescent. Tourmaline. Topaz. Diamond. Beryl. Garnet. Sapphire. Jargoon. Opal. Red. Cat's-eye. Diamond. Pink. Quartz. Ruby. Diamond. Ruby. Spinel. Spinel. Moonstone. Jacinth. Garnet. Ruby. Chrysoberyl. Orange or Reddish- yellow Tourmaline. Beryl. Topaz. Diamond. Yellow. Chrysoberyl. Diamond. Brown. Garnet or Cinnamon- Topaz. Diamond. stone. Chrysolite or Olivine. Chrysoberyl. Topaz. Spinel. "Garnet. Jacinth. Beryl. Jacinth. Ruby. Garnet. Tourmaline. Tourmaline. Jacinth. Quartz. Rubicelle (or Spinel). Tourmaline. APPENDIX. THE BIBLIOGRAPHY OF PRECIOUS STONES j OH, A LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL WORKS THAT HAVE APPEARED RELATING TO DIAMONDS AND OTHER GEMS, Comprising nearly every known treatise upon the subject. ABEN Ezra (Rabbi),' Commentarium in Decalogum. 8vo. Hebr. Basel, 1527 ABICH (H.), De Spinello, dissert, inaug. chem. 8vo. Berolini, 1831 AGRICOLA (George), De Ortu et Causis Subterraneo- rum. De Natura eorum quae effluunt ex Terra. Fol. Bos. 1558 ALBERTUS Magnus, De Virtutibus herbarum, lapidum, animalium, etc., var. ed. Lived about 1230 ANDRADA (M. d'), An Account of the Diamonds of Brezil. Nick. Journ. i. 24. *797 ANNALES des Mines. Pans 234 Bibliography of Precious Stones. ARGENVILLE (A. J. D. d'), De 1'Histoire Naturelle eclaircie dans deux de ses parties principales : la Lithologie et la Conchologie. 410. Paris, 1742 ARGENVILLE, Traite de 1'Oryctologie. Paris, 1740 ARISTOTLE, Lapidarius, de novo e Graeco translatus. Lucas Brandis. 410. Regia Mersbourg, 1473 ARNOBIO (Cleandre), II Tesoro delle Gioie, trattato maraviglioso. Venet. 1602 ATHEN^EUS. Deiphnosophistae (Banquet des Philo- sophes), traduit par Dalechamp. Paris, 1573 AVICENNA (Abou-Ali-Alhussein-Ben-Adloulah), Ca nones Medicinas, Latt. reddit. Ven. 148.? BABINGTON (Charles), A Systematic Arrangement 01 Minerals, their Chemical, Physical, and External Characters. 4to. London, 1795 BACCI (Andrea), De Gemmis ac Lapidibus pretiosis in S. Scriptura. 410, Rome, 1577 5 8vo, Franc. 1628 BACCI (And.), Le XII Pietre preziose. 4to. Roma? 1587 BACCI (And.), De Gemmis et Lapidibus pretiosis, trac- tatus ex Ital. Lingua Lat. red. 8vo. Francof. 1605 BARBOT (Ch.), Traite complet des Pierres precieuses. 8vo. Paris, 1858 BAUMER (John Wilh.), Historia Naturalis Lapidum preciosorum omnium, etc. 8vo. Franc. 1771 BAUMER (J. W.), Naturgeschichte aller Edelsteine, wie auch der Erde und Steine, so bisher zur Artz- nei sind gebraucht worden. Aus dem Latein. von Karl, Freih. von Meidinger. 8vo. Wien, 1774 Bibliography of Precious Stones. 2,35 BECHAI BEN ASCHAR, Biur al Hattorah (Exposition of the Law of Moses), A Commentary on Exodus xxviii. 17-20. A.M. 5207 (A.D. 1447*) BECKER (John Joachim), Physica Subterranea. 4to. Lipsice, 1739 BEKKERHEIM (Karl), Krystallographie des Mineral- reichs. 8vo. Wien, 1793 BELLEAU (Rene), Les Amours et nouveaux Echanges des Pierres precieuses. 410. Paris, 1576 BELLERMAN (J. J.), Die Urim und Thummim. Berlin, 1824 BER&UEN (Robert de), Les Merveilles des indesOrien- tales et Occidentales, ou nouveau Trait6 des Pierres precieuses et des Perles. 410. Paris, 1661 BERZELIUS (J. Jacob, M.D., F.S.A.), On the Compo- sition of the Topaz, etc. Nick. Journ. ix. 105. 1807 BEUMENBERGER (J. G.), Der Volkommene Juwelier. Weimar, 1828 BIELHE (Von), Bernstein, ein gewichtiges Naturpro- duct des Konigreichs Danemark. 8vo. Hamburg, 1845 BIELHE (Von), Ueber die Bernstein-Grabereien in Hin- ter-Pommern. 8vo. Berlin, 1802 BLINDHEIM (J. J.), Ueber den Sibirischen und Tauri- schen Kalzedon. Neue Schrift. der Gesellsch. naturf. Freunde. 4to. Berlin, 1800 * This work contains an ample account of the properties of pre- cious stones. The edition of 1447 is the earliest, bur it has since been many times reprinted. 236 Bibliography of Precious Stones. BLUM (Dr. Reinhart), Die Schmucksteine, Heidelberg, 1828, und Taschenbuch der Edelsteinkunde, I2ino. Stutgart, 1834 BLUM (J. R.), Lithurgik, oder Mineralien und Felsar- ten, nach ihrer Anwendung in Oekon., Artist, und Technischer Hinsicht systematisch abgehand^lt. Stutgart, 1840 BLUM (J. R.), Verzeichniss der geschnittenen Steine in dem Konigl. Museum zu Berlin. 8vo. Berlin, 1827 BLUMENBERG, Dissertatio Medica de Succino. 410. Jena, 1682 BLUMHOF (J. C.), Lehrbuch der Lithurgik. Frankfurt, 1822 BOCK (Fr. S.), Versuch einer kurzen Naturgeschichte des Preussischen Bernsteins, und einer neuen war- scheinlichen Erklarung seines Ursprunges. 8vo. Konigslerg, 1767 BOETIUS (Anselmus), Tractatus de Lapidibus et Gem- mis, var. ed. BONDARY (Jean de la Taille de), Blason des Pierres precieuses. GOT (Anselmus Boetius de), Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia. 4to. Hanover, 1690. Recensuit et com- mentariis illustravit Adr. Toll. 8vo. Lugd. Batav. 1636 BOOT (Ans. Boece de), Le Parfaict Joaillier, ou Histoire des Pierreries, de nouveau enrichi de belles Annota- tions par Andre Toll, trad, du Lat. par J. Bachou. 8vo. Lyon, 1644 Bibliography of Precious Stones. 237 BORN (Baron Inigo), Schneckensteine, oder die Sachsi- schen Topasfelsen. 410. Pfag, 1776 BOUILLON (De la Grange), Analysis of the Substance known by the name of Turquoise. Nich. Journ. xxi. 182. BOURGET, Lettres sur la Formation des Sels et Cris- taux. i2mo. Amst. 1729 BOURNON (Count de), An Analytical Description of the Crystalline Forms of Corundum from the East In- dies and China. Pjiil. Trans. Air. xviii. 368. 1798 BOURNON (Count de>, Description of the Corundum Stone, and its Varieties commonly known as Orien- tal Ruby, Sapphire, etc. Phil. Trans, p. 223. 180. BOURNON (C. de), A Descriptive Catalogue of Dia- monds in the Cabinet of Sir Abraham Hume. 410. London, 1815 BOURNON (Le Comte de), Traite de la Chaux Carbo- natee et de 1'Arragonite, auquel on a joint une in- troduction a la Mineralogie en general, une Theorie de la Crystallisation et son Application. 410. Londres, 1808 BOYLE (Hon. Robert), An Essay about the Origin and Virtues of Gems, with some Conjectures about the Consistence of the Matter of Precious Stones, etc. London; 8vo, 1672, and i2mo, 1673 Several editions in Latin were printed on the Continent. BOYLE (Hon. Robert), Experiments and Considera- tions upon Colour, with Considerations on a Dia- mond that Shines in the Dark. 8vo. London, 1663 2,38 Bibliography of Precious Stones. BK&RD (C. P.), Traite des Pierres precieuses. Paris, 1808 BREITHAUPT (A.), Das Geschlecht der Rhomboedri- schen Turmaline. Schweizzers Jahrluchfilr Chym. und Phys. 8vo. 1829 BREWSTER (Sir David, LL.D., F.R.S.L., etc.), On the Optical Properties of Muriate of Soda, Fluate of Lime, and the Diamond, as Exhibited in their Action upon Polarized Light. Phil. Trans, viii. 157. 1817 BREWSTER (Sir David), On a New Optical and Mine- ralogical Property of Calcareous Spar. 410. Edinl. 1815 BREWSTER (Sir David), On the Effects of Compression and Dilatation altering the Polarizing Structure of Doubly-refracting Crystals. 4to. Edinl. 1818 BREWSTER (Sir David), On the Optical Properties of Sulfuret of Carbon, etc., with Inferences respecting the Structure of Doubly-refracting Crystals. Fol. Edinl. 1814 BRONGNIART, Traite de Mineralogie, avec application aux Arts. Paris, 1807 BRUCKMANN (Fr. Hier.), A Treatise on Precious Stones. 8vo. 1775 Second edition, corrected and improved. BRUCKMANN (U. F. B.), Abhandlung von Edelsteinen. Braunschweig, 1757-73 BRUCKMANN (U. F. B.), Gesammelte und eigene Bei- trage zu seiner Abhandlung von Edelsteinen. Braunschweig, 1778 Bibliography of Precious Stones. 239 BUCHOZ, Les Dons merveilleux et diversement colories de la Nature dans le Regne Mineral. Fol. Paris, 1/82 BURCH (A.), Handbuch fiir Juweliere. Weimar, 1834 CADET (Le Jeune), Memoire sur les Jaspes et autres Pierres precieuses de 1'ile de Corse, etc. 8vo. Bastia, 1785 CJESALPINUS (Andreas), De Metallicis Libri tres. 410. Rom. 1496 CAIRE (A.), La Science des Pierres precieuses appliquee aux arts. Paris, 1833 CAPPELLER (Maur. Ant.), Piodromus Crystallographiae, de Crystallis improprie sic dictis Commentarium. 410. Lucernes, 1723 CARDANUS (Hieronymus), De Lapidibus preciosis, also de Subtilitate, var. ed. CAROSI (Johann), Sur la Generation du Silex et du Quarz. 8vo. Cracov. 1783 CARTON (J.), Englischer Juwelier, Kenntniss, Werth- und Preisschatzung aller Edelsteine, Perlen und Co- rallen, ins Deut. iibersetzt nach der 10 ed. I2mo. Grate, 1818 CATALOGUE des Bijoux nationaux. Paris, 1791 CELLINI (Benvenuto), Del Arte del Gioiellare. 410. Fior. 1568 CELLINI (Benvenuto), Trattato del' Oreficeria, var. ed. CHENEVIX (Richard, Esq., F.R.S.), Analysis of Corun- dum and some Substances that accompany it. Phil. Trans, p. 327. i8oa 240 Bibliography of Precious Stones CLAVE (Estienne), Paradoxes, ou Traittez Philosophiques des Pierres et Pierreries, centre 1'opinion vulgaire. 8vo. Paris, 1635 CLUTIUS (Augerius), Calsvee, sive Dissertatio Lapidis Nephritic!, seu Jaspidis viridis, naturam, proprietates, et operationes exhibens Belgice, 8vo. Amsterdam, 1621, et Lat. per Gul. Lauremberg, fil. 8vo. Rosfochii, 162- COHEN (M.), Beschreibendes Verzeichniss einer Samm- lung von Diamanten. Wien, 1822 COLLINI (Cosmus), Journal d'un Voyage, qui contient differentes observations mineralogiques, particuliere- ment sur les agates, avec un detail sur la maniere de travailler les agates. 8vo. Mannheim, 1776 COLONNE (Francois Marie Pompee), Histoire Natu- relle de 1'Univers. 4 vols. 8vo. Paris, 1734 CORSI (Faust), Delle Piedre antiche libri quattro. Roma, 1828 CURIOSE Speculationen. Leipzig, 1707 DAVY (Sir Humphry), Prof, of Chem., etc. etc., Some Experiments on the Combustion of the Diamond and other Carbonaceous Substances. Phil. Trans, p. 557. 1814 DESCRIPTION of the Diamond. Phil. Trans. Air. ii. 405. 1/08 DIAMOND, The, or the Pest of a Day. Fores. 4to. London, 179" Bibliography of Precious Stones. 241 DINGLEY (Robert, Esq.), On Gems and Precious Stones, particularly such as the Ancients used to engrave on Phil. Trans. Air. ix. 345. 1747 DIOSCORIDES, De Materia Medica, var. ed. DOLCE (Ludovico), Libri tre, nei quali si tratta delle di- verse sorti delle Gemme che produce la Natura. 8vo, Fen. 1564 DREE (Marquis de), Catalogue du Musee Mineralo- gique. 4to. Paris, 1811 DUTENS (Lewis), Des Pierres precieuses et des Pierre* fines, avec les moyens de les connoitre et de les valuer. Londres, 1776 Another edition was printed at Paris in the following year. ECCHELLENSIS (Abraham), Versio Durrhamani de Me- dicis Virtutibus animalium, plantarum et Gemmarum. 8vo. Paris, 1647 ECKERMAN (N.), Electra, oder die Entstehung des Bernsteins. 410. Halle, 1807 EKEBERG (Andrew Gustavus), Dissertatio de Topazio. Upsal, 1796 ELLIOTT (John, F.R.S.), On the Specific Gravity of Diamonds. Phil. Trans. Air. ix. 147. 1745 ENCELIUS (Christoph), De Re Metallica, hoc est, de origine, varietate et natura corporum metallicorum, Lapidum, Gemmarum atque aliarum quae ex fodinis eruuntur Libri iii. 8vo. Francf. 155 1 ENGELHARDT (Ab. von), Die Lagerstatte derDiamanten im Ural-Gebirge. 4to. Riga, 183 > 2,42 Bibliography of Precious Stones. EPIPHANIUS, De duodecim Gemmis in veste Aaronis. Gr. Lat. cum corollario Gesneri. 8vo. Tig. 1565 ERMANN, Beitrage zur Monographic des Marekasit,Tur- nialin und Brasilianischen Topas. From the works of the Berliner Akad. 4to. Berlin, 1829 EVAX (a King of the Arabs) : a MS. is attributed to him on the properties and effects of precious stones, published by Henry Rantzovius, under the title ' De Gemmis scriptum olim a poeta quodam non in- feliciter carmine redditum et nunc primum in lucem editum.' 4to. Leipsic, 1585 FALLOPIUS (G.),De Medicatis Aquis atque de Fossilibus, tractatus ab Andrea Marcolino collectus. 4to. Fenitia, 1564 FERNEL (John Francis), Pharmacia, cum Guliel. Plantii et Franc. Saguyerii Scholiis. I2mo. Hanov. 1605 FISCHER (G.), Essai sur la Turquoise et sur la Calaite. Moscou, 1 8 10 FISCHER (G. de Waldheim), Essai sur la Pellegrina, ou la Perle Incomparable des freres Zozima. Pamph. Hist. Nat. 8vo. Moscou, 1818 FLADE (C. G.), De Re Metallica Midianitarum et Phoe- nicorum. 4to. Leipzig, 1806 FLADUNG, Versuch iiber die Kennzeichen der Edelsteine und deren vortheilhaftesten Schnitt. Pesth, 1819 FLADUNG (J. A. F.), Edelste/nlnj.n '/>w subject are preserved in the British Museum : GALAMAZAR, Liber de virtutibus Lapidum Pretiosorum quern scripsit Galamazar, Thesaurarius Regis Babylo- nie, ipso presenti et precipiente. Harleian MSS. 80. a6o Bibliography of Precious Stones. DE LAPIDIBUS, Avibus et Arboribus Indiae, Arabiae. et Africae. Harl. MSS. 80. LAPIDUM PRETIOSORUM usus Magicus, sive de Sigillis. Harl. MSS. 80. LIBER HERMETIS, tractans de 15 Stellis et de 15 Lapidi- bmetde 15 Herbisetde 15 Figuris. Harl. MSS. So. INDEX. ACH /\ CHLAMAH, or amethyst, ./X description of, 43. Agate, in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 43 ; account of, 170-172. Alexandrite, 117. Almandine ruby, 1 1 8, 121 Almandine, variety of garnet, 142- 146. Amber, account of, where found, &c. 210-213. Amethyst, in High Priest's breast- plate, 36, 435 account of, where found, &c. 157-159. Amethyst, oriental, 114. Amsterdam, diamond cutting there, 67. \ncient gems, 7. Ancients, their ideas respecting gems, 21-32. Aquamarine, or beryl, 129, 137- 139- Aquamarine, oriental, 115. Aristotle, mention of gems, 24, 25, in. Aschentrekker, Dutch name for tourmaline, 150. Asteroids, their colour, 9. Australian diamonds, 62. Automalite, 119. ^vanturine, 161. CAB BACC1US (Andreas), mention of balas ruby, 121. Balas ruby, 118, 121. Eareketh, or carbuncle, description of, 39. Berghem (L. van) discoverer of art of cutting diamonds, 64, 65 Beryl, in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 44 ; Scriptural mention, 47 ; account of, where found, &c. 129-139. Bloodstone, or heliotrope, 175. Boart, worst quality of diamond, 62. Boetius, mention of gems, 29, 112, 208, 216. Borneo, diamonds found there, 6l. Bourdon (Count), 102. Braganza diamond, account of, 78. Brazil, diamonds found there, 56 6 1 ; diamonds belonging to Bra- zilian Government, 85. Brilliants, 70. Brilliolette, or briolet, form of, 77 value, 96. 1ABOCHON, or tallov t cut, 99. -topped 262 Index. CAC Cacholong, variety of opal, 183, 184. Caillaud, discovered emerald mine, 133. Cairngorm, 159-160. Callaite, ancient name of turquoise, 182. Cameos, onyx used for, 167 ; jasper used for, 174; turquoise, 182. Carbonate, or diamond carbon, 62. Carbuncle, in High Priest's breast- plate, 36, 39, 40; Scriptural mention, 46 ; variety of garnet, 142, 144. Carnelion, 1 68. Cat's eye, 115, 117, 172. Ceylon, account of pearl fishery in, i90- 193 . Ceylonite, 119. Chalcedonyx, variety of chalcedony, 169. Chalcedony, found with chryso- prase, 1 62 ; account of, 1 69. Characteristics of gems, table of, 220. Chemical properties of gems, 3-20 analyses of ruby, 102; chryso beryl, Il6j spinel, 120; topaz 124; emerald and beryl, 131 hyacinth, 139; garnet, 143 tourmaline, 149; quartz, 152 amethyst, 157} chrysoprase 162; chrysolite, 177; turquoise I 79> opal, 183; moonstone 203 ; lapis lazuli, 204 ; mala chite, 206 ; labradorite, 207 ; jade, 209; amber, 210. Chloro-spinel, 119. Chrysoberyl, 115-1185 confounded with cat's eye, 172. Chrysolite, in High Priest's breast- plate, 44; account of, 176178. Chrysolite, oriental, 115. Chrysoprase, chrysoberyl of the ancients, 118; account of, 162. DIA Cinnamon-stone, variety of garnet, 142, 146, 160. Classification of gems, 32. Colophonite, variety of garnet, 142, 146. Colour of gems, 8 ; table of stones arranged according to their colours, 229. Combustibility of the diamond, 51. Coral, Scriptural mention, 46 ; ac- count of, where found, &c. 2 1 3- 216. Corundums, 101, 114. Coster's diamond-cutting mills, 67. Crushing diamonds, 70. Cumberland diamond, account of, 80. Cutting gems, art of, 31; diamond cutting, 63-68; cutting coloured stones, 97-100; ruby, 108 ; sapphire, no; chrysoberyl, 117; spinel, 123; topaz, 126; eme- rald, 136; garnet, 145; tour- maline, 150; rock crystal, 156; amethyst, 158 ; cairngorm, 160; chrysoprase, 1 62 ; onyx, 1 64 ; jasper, 175; chrysolite, 177; turquoise, 181; opal, 184, 1 86; moonstone, 203 ; coral, 215. Cymophane, 115-118. DIAMOND, its material, 3 ; refractive power, 10 ; men- tion by Plato, 24; Pliny, 25, 29; Serapius, 29 ; in High Ptiest's breastplate, 36, 41 ; Scriptural mention, 47 ; account of, its properties, varieties, &c. 48-96 ; cutting, 67 ; polishing, 68 ; crushing, 70; splitting, 71; names of forms, 72 ; account of large diamonds, 78-86 ; value, 8796 ; resemblance of sapphire to, 114. Index. 263 DIA Diaphaneity of gems, 19. Dioscorides, mention of coral, a 16. Double cutting of brilliant, 66; form of, 73. " Doublets," false gems, 218, 219. Dresden (Mr.), account of a large diamond in his possession, 85. Dyshnite, 119. ELECTRICAL properties of gems, 1 6-1 8; of the dia- mond, 50. Emerald, in Hig'i Priest's breast- plate, 36, 40, 44; account of, where found, Sec. 129137. Emerald, oriental, 115. Emery, 102. Essonite, variety of garnet, con- founded with jacinth, 140 ; ac- count of, 142, 143, 146. Euclase, found with topaz in Brazil, 126. Eugenie brilliant, account of, 82. '^yestones, jewellers' name for onyx, 163. FACETS in diamond, formation of, 67, 68, 72. Florentine brilliant, account of, 82. Fusibility of gems, 19. G AGATES, ancient name of jet, 208. Galen, mention of jasper, 175. Garnet, spinel mistaken for, 1 21 ; account of, where found, &c. 141-147. Gems, definition of, I ; where found, 2 ; requisites for value, 3 ; material of, 3 ; used for medical purposes, 31. Goepert, mention of amber, in. JAD Golconda, mines of, 54. Grossularite, variety of garnet, 142, 146. HARDNESS of gems, 6. Hauy, Abbe, work on gems, !? Hebrew names of gems, 22, 34 47- Heliotrope, 175. Hercenite, 119. Herman, diamond cutter, A.D. 1407, 64. Herodotus, mention of gems, 25, High Priest, stones in his breast- plate, 21, 22, 38-47. Homer, mention of gems, 23. Hope diamond, account of, 84. Hyacinth, in High Priest's breast- plate, 43 ; account of, where found, &c. 139-141 ; garnet sold for, 146. Hyalosiderite, variety of chrysolite, 177. Hydrophane, variety of opal, 183, 185. TDENT1TV of gems, means of A ascertaining, 216-219. Indecolite, variety of tourmaline, 147. India, diamonds found there, 54 j diamond washing in Sumbal- phore, 55 ; diamond cutting, 66. Isidorus, mention of sapphire, in j emerald, 134. JACINTH, spinel mistaken for, 122 ; account of, where found, &c. 139-141; girnet sold for, 146. Jade, or nephrite, 209. 264 Index. JAH Jahalum, or diamond, description I of, 41. }argoon, 140, 141. ashpeh, or jasper, description of, ' Jasper, in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 45; account of, 173175. Jeffries (David), work on diamonds, 57, 87. Jet, 208. Jewish use of gems, 21, 28. KOH-I-NOOR diamond, ac- count of, 79. LABRADORITE, or Labrador felspar, 207. Lapis lazuli, 203205. Leshem, or ligure, description of, 42. Leucite, variety of garnet, 142, 146. Ligure, in High Priest's breastplate, ;*> 4*. Lobo, discovered diamonds in Brazil, 57- Lucan, mention of gems, 27. Lustre of gems, 7. MALACHITE, 206. Marbodus, mention of heliotrope, 175. Mattam diamond, account of, 78. Maturan diamond, jargoon so called, 140. Mazarin diamonds, 65. Melanite, variety of garnet, 142, 146. Minerals forming gems, 3. Mixed or brilliant top cut, 99. Mocha stone, variety of chalcedony, 170. ORP Moh, scale of hardness, 6. Moonstones, 202-203. Mother-of-pearl, 188, 189. Mythological allusions to gems, 2 1 , 23. NAMES of gems, table of translations from Hebrew, 36; Indian diamonds, 55 ; Bra- zilian, 56 ; forms of cut dia- monds, 72 ; varieties of topaz, 127; emerald, 136; beryl, 1385 garnet, 142; cairngorm, 159; agate, 170 ; opal, 182 ; table of names of stones in different lan- guages, 226. Nassack diamond, 54 ; account of, 84. Nephrite, or jade, 209. Nicolo, or onicolo, variety of onyx, 165. Nophek, or emerald, description of, 40. ODEM, or sardius. description of, 38. Odontolite, fossil turquoise, 181. Olivine, 176178. Onomakritos, mention of jasper, 174- Onyx, in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 43, 44; account of, 163- 168. Opal found with chrysoprase, 162 ; account of, where found, &c. 182-186. Optical qualities of gems, 10. Oriental knowledge of gems, 33. Orloff diamond, account of, 81. Orpheus, or onamacriton, mention of gems, 23. Index. 265 PAR PARASITE, found with eme- rald in New Granada, 133. Pasha of Egypt diamond, account of, 83. Pearl, swallowed by Cleopatra, 27 ; account of, 187195 ; value and discrimination of, 196-201 5 false pearls, 219. Pebble, 154. Peridot, 176-178. Peridot, oriental, 115. Peruggi, or Peruzzi, introducer of double cutting. 66. Pierre de cannehe, French name for cinnamon, 1 60. Pietra dura, jasper used in, 174. Piggott diamond, account of, 84. Pimelite found with chrysoprase, 162. Pitdah, or topaz, description of, 39. Pitt diamond, account of, 8 1. Plasma, variety of chalcedony, 169. Plato, mention of gems, 24. Pleonast, 119. Pliny, mention of gems, 25; ruby, 107 ; sapphire, 1 j I ; topaz, 129 ; emerald, 1335 beryl, 138; al- mandine, 145; carbuncle, 147; amethyst, 159; carnelion, 1 68; agate, 172; jasper, 174; helio- trope, 175; turquoise, 182; opal, 1 86; pearl, 195; lapis, 205; amber, 211, 212; coral, 216. Polarization of light in gems, 10 12. Polar Star diamond, account of, 81. Polishing, diamond, 68 ; coloured stones, 97. Polo (Marco), mention of balas ruby, 121. Portaleone, his work " Shilto Hage- borem," on value of diamonds, 91. Portuguese diamond, 85 ; supposed to be a white topaz, 128. Pyrope, or Bohemian garnet, 142, H3, 145- OUARTZ, varieties of, 176. 151- of light in ; in the dia- REFRACTION of gems, 10-12 mond, 49. Regent or Pitt diamond, account of, 81. Rock crystal, sold for topaz, 124 ; account of, where found, &c. 1 5 3-i 5 6 : Roman, ancient, taste for gems, 26. Rose diamond, 70 ; form of, 76 ; value, 95. Rubelite, variety of tourmaline, 147. Rubicelle, 118, 120. Ruby, account of, where found, &c. 1 02, no ; garnet made to imi- tate, 145. Russian treasury, diamond in, 85. ST. STEPHEN'S STONE, variety of chalcedony, 169. Sancy diamond, cut by Van Ber- ghem, 65 ; account of, 83. Sapphire, its colour, 9 ; mentioned in Scripture, 22 ; in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 40 ; account of, where found, Sec. 110114. Sapphire, yellow, 115. Sapphirine, 119, 169. Sappir, or sapphire, description of, 40. Sard, 1 6 6, 168. Sardius, in High Priest's breastplate, 36, 38. Sardonyx, account of, 163-168. 266 Index. SCO Scott (Sir Walter), mention of opal, ZOD 36, 39; account of, where 185. found, &c. 123-129. Scriptural mention of gems, 22, Topaz, false, or cairngorm, 160. 33-47; emerald, 135; pearl, Topaz, oriental, 115. 194. Tourmaline, or Brazilian ruby, ac- Semitic knowledge of gems, 33. count of, where found, &c. 147 Seneca, mention of pearls, 195. 151; resemblance to chrysolite, Shah diamond, account of, 81. 178. Shebo, or agate, description of, 43. Trap, or step-cut, 98. Shoham, or onyx, description of, Turkey, Sultan of, diamonds in his 44. possession, 86. Single-cut brilliant, form of, 74, Turquoise, superstition regarding, 75- 23, 29, 42; in High Priest's Skaif, for diamond polishing, 68. breastplate, 42 ; account of, Specific gravity of gems, 14-16; of where found, &c. 178-182. the diamond, 49. Tuscany, Grand Duke of, diamonds Spessartine, variety of garnet, 146. in his possession, 86. Spinel, found with ruby, 102 ; sold for ruby, 105; account of, 1 1 8- 123; found with emerald, 133. UWAROWITE, variety of gar- Splitting diamonds, 71. net, 142, 147. Star-cut, 100. Star of the South diamond, 61 ; account of, 85. Succinite, variety of garnet, 146. Superstitions regarding gems, 23, VALUE of diamonds, 86-96 ; ruby, 109 j sapphire, 112; chrysoberylandcymophane, 1 18 ; spinel, 123 ; topaz, 129 ; eme- 29 *3*> i7t a?" Syrian garnet, 144. rald, 136; beryl, 138; jacinth, 141 ; garnet, 146 ; crystal, 155; amethyst, 158 ; onyx, sardonyx, TABLE diamond, form of, 75. Table of present value of brilliants, 93. Table of comparative values of &c. 166; jasper, 175; chryso- lite, 178; turquoise, 181 ; opal, 185; pearl, 196-201; lapis lazuli, 205 ; coral, 215. diamonds, 94. Tavernier, mention of gems, 3 1 ; of diamonds, 54; rubies, 108. 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