TRAVELS THROUGH CANADA, . AND THE UNITED STATES OF NORTH AMERICA IN THE YEARS 1806, 1807, # 1808. TO WHICH ARE ADDEW, BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES AND ANECDOTES OF SOME OF THE LEADING CHARACTERS IN THE UNITED STATES. BY JOHN LAMBERT. IN TWO VOLUMES. WITH A MAP AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. VOL. II. SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND IMPROVED. LONDON: PRINTED FOR C. CRADOCK AND W. JOY, 32, PATERNOSTER-ROW; JIOIG AND STIRLING, EDINBURGH; AND M. KEENE, pUBLIN 1813. ; E VVA \ &V2 l*rnfed fy Richard Taylor and Co., Printers' Court, Shoe-lane, Linden. u. c. ACADEMY OF CONTENTS. HISTORY ^ VOL. II. CHAPTER XXV. Journey to New York. Leave Montreal. La Prairie. St. John's. Independent Whig. Fellow Travellers. Sloop Dolphin. David. Crossing the Line. Merman seen in the Richlieu River. English Negotiators. Isle au Noix. Anecdote of a Soldier. Cumberland Head. Canoe upset. Ducking. Shelburne Bay. American Hospitality. Lake Champlain. Crown Point. Accident. Floating Ice. Old Ti, or Ticon- derago. Gale of Wind. Wood Creek. Run the Vessel ashore. Excursion through the Woods. Whitehall, Cap- ture of General Burgoyne. Account of Saratoga. American Stage Waggon page 1 CHAPTER XXVI, Leave Skenesborough. American T'verns. Hire another Waggon. Dine at Salem. Captain White. Humoroud Waggoner. Turnpikes, a profitable Speculation. Travel- ling by Night. Lansingburgh. Troy. Newspapers. Fe- deralists and Democrats. Stage-coach. Steam-boat. City of Albany; its improved State. Gregory's Hotel. Mode of Living at Taverns. Town of Hudson. Experiment Sloop, a new Packet Vessel. The Hudson River. Beautiful Sce- nery. Theological Dispute. Entertainment on board the Sloop Major Andre. West Point. Arrival at New York. Appearance of the City at Night page 28 CHAPTER XXVII. Boarding-House. Evacuation of New York, celebrated on the 25th of November. The Harbour. The Broadway. Bow- ery Road. Shops. Hotels. Public Buildings. The Park. Caterpillars. The Theatre. Mr. Cooper's Performances. Richard the Third. Vauxhall. Ranelagh. Wharfs. Ware- houses. Shipping. State of New York before the Embargo. Bustle and Activity which prevailed. Melancholy Effects of the Embargo. Annihilation of Commerce. * page 51 a 2 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. Places of Worship. Public Buildings. State Prison. Courts of Law. Board of Health. Quarantine Station. Chamber of Commerce. Inspectors of Lumber, &c. Commerce of New York. Increase of Commerce. Abundance of Provi- sions. Articles brought to Market. Price of Commodities at New York. Charitable Institutions. The Ladies' So- ciety for the Relief of poor Widows with small Children. Newspapers. Literary Fair - - page 66 CHAPTER XXIX. Number of Deaths at New York. Mode of living in America. The Yellow Fever. Population of New York. Deaths. Church-yards. Funerals. Society of New York. Elegant Women. French and English Dresses. Fine Figures. De- Jicate Complexions. Bad Teeth, a groundless Charge. Edu- cation. Thirst after Knowledge. Arts and Sciences. Li- terature. Taste for Reading. Salmagundi. The Echo. Barlow's Columbiad. Smoking. Style of living at New York. Splendid Marriages. Great Fortunes. Anecdote of a Sailor. Quakers' Meeting. Quakers. Anecdote of a Jew. Singing Schools. Christmas Day. Political Parties. Duels page 81 CHAPTER XXX. Leave New York for Charleston. Take passage in the Calli- ope. Fellow Passengers. The Irish Knife-grinder. Gun- boats. Quarantine Ground. Sandy Hook. Gulf Stream. Arrival at Charleston. Streets. Houses. Public Buildings. East Bay. St. Michael's. The Branch Bank. Charleston Library. The Museum. Poisonous Tree. Pernicious Ef- fects of the Pride of India. Turkey Buzzards. Dead Horses. The Golgotha. Negligence of the Municipality. Public Buildings. The Orphan House. The Theatre. Vauxhall. Anecdote of Mrs. S . Unfortunate Courtship. The Mar- ket-place. Productions. Price of Provisions, &c. page 114 CHAPTER XXXI. Population of Charleston. Society. The Planters. Extrava- gance and Dissipation. Money Lenders. Long Credit. CONTENTS, f Charleston Races. Jockey Club. Race Course. Balls and Concerts. Amusements of the People. Rifle Shooting. Duelling. Sullivan's Island. Outrages at Charleston. Riots among the Sailors. Consequences of the Embargo. Ameri- can Seamen enter the British Service - page 145 CHAPTER XXXII. Servants at Charleston. Slaves. Slave Trade. Slave Mer- chants. The Bargain Bu^er. Observations upon the Slave Trade. The Treatment of Africans. Refined Cruelty. People of Colour and Mulattoes. Negro Characteristics. Religious Fanaticism. Methodist Preachers pelted in their Pulpits. Manners of the Negroes. An Anecdote of a Ne- gro and his Wife. Their intrepid Death. Religion. Ser- vice of the Episcopal Churches in the United States. Meth- odist Meetings. Marriages. Funerals. Novelty of an Un- dertaker's Profession in Charleston. Charitable Societies. Free Masons. - page 163 CHAPTER XXXIII. Legislature of South Carolina. City of Columbia. Revenue. Expenses of the City of Charleston. Taxes. Courts of Law. Curious Trial. Portraits of Washington and Hamilton more saleable than those of Jefferson. Review on Charleston Race Ground. Militia of South Carolina. Volunteer Corps of Charleston. Field-day. Military Force of the United States badly disciplined. Satire upon American Discipline. A Militia Muster page 183 CHAPTER XXX IV. Arts, Sciences, and Literature of South Carolina. Newspapers. Incomes of the Planters. Houses. Productions of the Soil. Implements of Husbandry. Waggons. Sledges. Grasses. Pasture Lands. Manufactures. Gunpowder. Grist Mills. Manufactories of Cordage. Commerce of South Carolina. Neutral Trade. Conduct of the Belligerents. Exports from Charleston - - page 203 Tl CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXV. Climate of South Carolina. Musquitoes. Whirlwinds. Storms of Hail. Immense Hailstones. Remarkable Sleet. Sudden Changes of Weather. State of the Weather in Charleston for 1807. Stranger's Fever. Mountains covered with Snow. Vicissitudes of Climate. Obituary from the Bills of Morta- lity in Charleston during five years - page 21t> CHAPTER XXXVI. Journey from Charleston to Savannah on Foot. Four-Mile House. Ashley River. Rantowle's Creek. Pine Barrens, live Oaks. Moss. Solitary Walk through the Woods. Lose fny Way. Meet a Negro. Arrive at the Twenty-three Mile House. Tavern-keeper. Anecdote of Mr. C . Resume iny Journey the next Morning. Overtake a travelling Negro. Arrive at the Village of Jacksonborough. Dine there. Get into the Stage. Fellow Passengers. A French Traveller. His Opinion of the Americans. Bonaparte's Death. A new Revolution in France. Pocoialigo. Coosywhatchie. Arrive at Purrysburgh. Col. Purry. Indian Tumuli. Negro Boat Song ..... page 22(5 CHAPTER XXXVII. Savannah. Colonel Shelman's Hotel. Yazoo Bubble. Cha- racter of the Georgians. Settlement of Georgia. Augusta. St. Mary's. Town of Savannah. Houses. Streets. Pride of India. Promenade. The Exchange. Assembly- Room. Po- pulation of Savannah. Burying Ground. Hurricane of 1 806. Arts and Sciences. Military Force. Religion. American Fanaticism. Camp Meetings. Blasphemous Scenes. Mid- night Orgies in the Forest, compared with the gentle and sublime Conduct of the Redeemer. Mild Doctrines of Chris- tianity. The Christian Religion a Religion of Charity and Benevolence to all the World - - page 256 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Leave -Savannah. Excursion up Savannah River. Inundations, Swamp Plantations. Alligators. Anecdote of an Alligator, CONTENTS. Vll Terrebins. Water Vipers. Rattle Snakes. Journey through the Woods. Black Snakes. Variety of Birds. Beautiful Pluiiia^ A.r? Adventure in the Woods. A disinterested Physician. Fire m the Forest. Immense Body of Srnoke. Seasons of South Carolina. Cotton Plantations Bad Roads. Waggoners or Crackers. Roads of South Carolina. Arrive at Charleston page 276 CHAPTER XXXIX. Leave Charleston. Embark for New York in the Calliope Packet, Gale of Wind. Drunken Pilot. Anecdote of a Negro Pilot. Arrival at New York. Melancholy Effects of the Embargo. Leave New York in the Stage for Boston. Pass through Haerlem. Newhaven. General Bradley. The two Crown- inshields. Virginian Drams. Virginian Fighting. Gouging, Kicking, and Biting, Fight between a German Gentleman and a Carolinian at Monte Video. Arrive at Hartford. Man- ners of the People of Connecticut. Productions. General Face of the Country. Stafford Springs. Handsome Houses and Churches. Arrive at Worcester. Crim. Con. Univer- salists. Marlborough. Dispute about building a Church, Congregationalists. An American Election. Characters of the New Englanders. Prejudices of former Travellers. Lower Orders. The " French Mounseer." Lower Orders of the Epglish. Dress and Manners of the New England Females - page 291 CHAPTER XL. Arrival at Boston. Agreeable Situation. Beacon Hill. The Park. East Boston. Longwharf. Market Places. New Hotel. Population of Boston. Religion. Manners of the first Settlers. Rigidity of Character. Governor Hancock. His Partiality to Negroes and Animosity to Theatres satirized by the Echo. Visit to the Theatre and the Circus. Captain Girod. Colonel Moulin. Captain de Frotte. Their extra- ordinary Escape from Fort Joux in Franche Comte. Lite- rature. Newspapers. Military Funeral. Manufactures. Contrast between the Northern Merchant and the Southern Planter. Visit to Bunker's Hill. Plymouth page 326 Viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLI. Biographical Notices and Anecdotes of some of the most emi- nent Public Characters in the United States Thomas Jefferson. James Madison. John Adams. Aaron .Burr. Blannerhasset. General Hamilton. John Randolph. Gar- denier. Albert Gallatin. Thomas Addis Emmet. General Moreau. Madame Jerome Bonaparte. Robert R. Living- ston. Joel Barlow. Chief Justice Jay. Commodore Bar- ron. Dr. Mitchill. General Pinckney. James Munroe. Commerce of the United States. Exports and Imports for ] 807. Duties upon Imports at the principal Sea-port Towns. Salaries of the principal Officers of the Government. Names of the separate States belonging to the Federal Republic. General statistical View of the United States for a Period of Twenty Years - - page 353 CHAPTER XLIL Leave Boston. Crowded Stage. Concord. Keene. Walpole. Newspapers. Diffusion of Knowledge and Information among the Country People. Leave New Hampshire. Enter Vermont. Origin of its Name. Stupendous Mountains. Particulars respecting Vermont. Arrive at Rutland. Indis- position there. Canadian Merchant. Quaint Phrases and Expressions of the Americans. An American Language. Christian Names. Arrive at Middlebury. Vergennes. Bad Roads through the Forests. A remarkable Thief. Arrival at Burlington. Account of that Town. Meet David. Con- tinue my Journey to St. Alban's. Cross the Lake. Choisy. Potash Manufactory. Journey from thence to La Prairie. Arrive at Montreal . - - page 4Q5 TRAVELS, CHAPTER XXV. Journey to New York Leave Montreal La Prairie St. John's Independent Whig Fel- loiv Travellers Sloop Dolphin David Cross- ing the Line Merman seen in the Richlieu River English Negotiators Isle au Noix Anecdote of a Soldier Cumberland Head Canoe upset Ducking Shelburne Bay Ame- rican Hospita lity Lak e Champ la in Croivn Point Accident* Floating Ice Old Ti, or Ticonderoga Gale of Wind Wood Creek > Run the Fessel ashore Excursion through the Woods Whitehall Capture of General Bur~ goyne Account of Saratoga American Stage Waggon. ON the afternoon of the 10th November I left Montreal in company with the American captain, and crossed over in a canoe to Longueil, which lies on the south-east shore of the St. Lawrence, VOL. u, B 2 LA PRAIRIE. nearly opposite the city. There we hired a calash, and proceeded about nine miles up the river to La Prairie de la Madelaine, a small village which derived its name from the extensive meadow land in its vicinity, dedicated to Mary Magdalen. This place contains about 100 houses, a church, and two or three inns kept by Americans; but the town is inhabited mostly by French Canadians. It is the medium of communication between Montreal and St. John's, and of the commerce carried on between the United States and Lower Canada. We slept at La Prairie that night, and next morning set off for St. John's in an American stage drawn by three horses. Though I was still jn Canada, yet the novelty of such a vehicle made me fancy myself already in the States; and the illusion was increased by meeting with American inn keepers who spoke English, and in every thing else presented a great contrast to the maitres des pastes on the other side of the river. About seven miles from La Prairie we stopped at an American tavern to breakfast, and for a quarter of a dollar were plentifully supplied with beef-steaks, eggs, and tea ; and, to add to the pleasure of our dejeune, were attended by a very pretty girl. A few Habitant houses and farms are scattered along the road ; but a great part is yet unculti- vated. Within two or three miles of St. John's ST. JOHN'S. 3 the road reaches the Riclilieu river, and, bending to the right, proceeds along its bank until it ap- proaches that village. The country on the east or left bank of the river is unsettled, and covered with thick woods on the other side ; along the road, to- wards the village, there are a few indifferent farms; it has the appearance of a new country, though it is upwards of seventy years since the fort at St. John's was constructed. We arrived at St. John's about one o'clock ; and having been recommended to Watson's tavern, I put up there till the wind was favourable for the vessel to sail. The village of St. John consists only of one short street of houses, most of which are stores and inns. Among the latter Cheeseman and Watson's are the best. They are Americans, and the former keeps the best inn at La Prairie ; he is also owner of most of the stages which run between the two places. Accommodations at both taverns are, how- ever, very indifferent, though superior to what are afforded at the Canadian post-houses. There is a custom-house in this village, where the exports to and imports from the States are registered, and the duties paid. It stands in the fort, which is situated about two hundred yards from the village. The latter contains a magazine, a few pieces of cannon, and a detachment of soldiers ; but it is altogether incapable of effectual defence. The fortification consists of a sort of earthen redoubt, thrown up B 2 INDEPENDENT WHIG. around a few houses and a magazine, and strength- ened with cedar picketing. I had waited two days at St. John's, during which I was prevented going out of doors in consequence of the wet weather and bad roads, when I was informed that the vessel in which I was to have sailed had taken advantage of a fa- vourable breeze and left the town in the middle of the night. I was much vexed at this news, as it was uncertain when another vessel would come in, and it was expected that the lake would be frozen over in a few days. I was also astonished that the captain never came to inform me that he intended to sail, and could not help suspecting that my landlord had played me a trick in order to detain me longer in his house. I was therefore obliged to remain three days longer in imprisonment at this miserable village, I amused myself with reading an old book which the landlord lent me, called The Independent Whig, published in 1720, and containing much satire and invective against the high church or Tory party, and the ministers of the established religion. This book was formerly much read in the English colonies of America, and tended greatly to assist that spirit of independence and republicanism which afterwards led to the Revo- lution. On Sunday afternoon a small sloop came in FELLOW TRAVELLERS. 5 from Burlington, which I understood was imme- diately engaged by three gentlemen at Cheese- man's tavern to take them to Skenesborough. While I was preparing to go down to the wharf the master of the vessel called upon me, and I in- stantly engaged a passage to the same place. He was to discharge his cargo that afternoon, and to sail at night if the wind became favourable. A Mr. Welch soon after arrived at Watson's, and as he was going to New York he also took his pas- sage in the same vessel ; and it was agreed that the captain should call for us when he was ready to start. So anxious was I not to miss this oppor- tunity of quitting a place which had now become completely disagreeable to me, that I would not go into bed, but merely laid myself down in my clothes. My precautions were however useless, as it was not till nine o'clock the next morning that the vessel was ready to sail. Having entered our names at the guard-house, we went on board, and immediately got under weigh with a light breeze. I was agreeably surprised to find that one of the three gentlemen who had engaged the vessel was Mr. Storrow, an American merchant, whom I had met at Dillon's Hotel: he was returning to Boston by the way of New York, in order to ar- range his affairs previous to his opening a store at Montreal the following spring. The other two 6 THE SLOOP DOLPHIN. gentlemen were his acquaintance: one of them, Mr. Henry Mackenzie of theNorth-west company, was going to New York, and from thence to En- gland, upon the company's concerns: the other was Mr. Lyman, a druggist of Montreal. This gentleman was born in the United States, but, found it more profitable to reside in Canada, where he carries on a considerable trade with his native country. Mr. Welch was going to New York, and from thence to South Carolina to re- cover some property for a me>cantile house at Hull. Thus it fortunately happened we were all bound for the same city, a circumstance which made me consider the delay I had experienced at St. John's in a less unfavourable point of view; for, had I gone in the first vessel, which I after- wards learnt went no further than Burlington, 1 should have had to travel upwards of 40O miles through a strange country by myself; and those who have been in the habit of travelling in Ame- rica will easily conceive the satisfaction I felt in meeting with agreeable companions on this journey. The sloop in which we were embarked was a wretched vessel. It had formerly been a regular trader, but being worn out was laid up for sale at Burlington. It was afterwards bought by four men for 100 dollars, upon condition that, if it was seized by the officers and condemned as unfit for THE SLOOP DOLPHIN. T service, the money was to be returned. Two of the purchasers agreed to navigate her to St. John's with a cargo of butter and cheese, intending to return to Burlington with another freight. This was agreed to, and the vessel came in on the Sun- day, as I before mentioned; but instead of return- ing back to Burlington, she was engaged by our party to go to Skenesborough. The offer was tempting; and with several barrels of potash and butter which they took on board for that place, the voyage was likely to turn out very advantage- ous, particularly if the vessel was seized on her arrival, as they expected; for then the purchasers would recover their 100 dollars again, and have all the freight and passage money as clear profit. The man who commanded the vessel was called Robert ; and the other who acted in the capacity of mate and foremastman was named David. Neither of them knew much of the navigation of the Lake, even between Burlington and St. John's, and both were perfectly ignorant of it from Bur- lington to Skenesborough, which is upwards of 80 miles further. Our prospects, it must be owned, were rather gloomy. We had to cross a lake above 15O miles in length, and in some parts 2O miles in breadth, in the very worst season of the year, when snow storms happen almost every day, and render the navigation of the lake even more dangerous than 8 THE SLOOP DOLPHIN. the ocean ; added to which, we were in a crazy ]eaky vessel, without a boat to go ashore in, or a spare rope in case of accident. The sails were in rags, the pumps choked up and broken ; and we were obliged to bale out the water from under the cabin every two hours with a tin kettle. To in- crease our difficulties we had two ignorant men to pilot us, who were as little acquainted with the management of a vessel as they were with the navigation of the lake. Fortunately for us the weather was fine; and instead of ruminating upon the dangers we were likely to encounter, we amused ourselves by laughing at the unskilfulness of the captain and his mate, particularly the latter, whose fears lest the vessel should be upset at every puff of wind afforded us much diversion. He continually kept fast hold of the peak hallyards, and at every little breeze instantly lowered the peak, exclaiming, * Whnt aa awful wind ! It blows nation stout ! ' The singularity of his expressions and his fears made us laugh very heartily ; and as he was rather a humorous fellow, he took our jokes in good part. About two o'clock in the afternoon we crossed the line in latitude 45 north. But as it was only the boundary line between Canada and the United States, Neptune and his spouse did not condescend to pay us a visit. As some incredulous persons may, however, doubt that the Richlieu river pos- MERMAN. ENGLISH NEGOTIATORS. 9 sesses its gods and goddesses, like the ocean, I shall, for their information, acquaint them, that an ancient French Jesuit missionary positively declared that he saw a merman in that river, three leagues below Chambly, and has recorded it in his writings! Though v\e received no visit from these marine gentry, yet it will appear that some of our party paid them a visit in the course of the night ; and though the ceremony of shaving was omitted, yet that of ducking was carried into full effect. The boundary line is about 18 miles from St. John's, and passes across the Richlieu river within a few miles of Lake Champlain. Hence the Ca- nadians are completely shut out from the lake in case of war, and even from the water communi- cation with their own territory in Missisqui bay. The greatest part of this bay lies in Canada, and is thus cut off by this line of demarcation, so ig- norantly or pusillanimously allowed by the En- glish negotiators in the treaty of peace with the American States in 1783. In case of war, the Americans have every advantage over the Cana- dians, by confining them to the narrow channel of Richlieu river ; and the ill effects of it have been already experienced since the embargo, as the rafts of timber were not permitted to come out of Missisqui bay for the purpose of passing down the Richlieu river. The laws however were 10 ISLE AU N01X. broken in several instances; but the parties were liable to fine and imprisonment. If the line had been drawn across the wide part of Lake Cham- plain, the Americans could never have stationed their gun boats with such effect as they did in 1807 in the Richlieu river, by which means they interrupted the communication between the two countries by water, and seized great quantities of goods. From St. John's to the entrance of the lake there are scarcely any settlements. Both shores are lined with woods, consisting chiefly of pines which grow to a great height. A few straggling log-huts are seen at intervals, but otherwise it is completely in a state of nature. The Isle au Noix is situated near the line. Upon it are the remains of a small fortification, which had been succes- sively occupied by the French, English^ and Ame- rican armies during the several wars which have occurred in that country. The name of the island used sometimes to be given out for the parole upon those occasions ; and it is related of an En- glish officer during the American war, who, upon being challenged by the sentinel, gave the word " Isle au Noix" in the true pronunciation, that the seniind refused to let him pass. The officer persisted he was right, and the soldier main- tained he was wrong ; till at length the former, recollecting himself, cried out " Isle of CUMBERLAND HEAD. 11 " Pass" said the soldier ; " you have hit it at last!" The weather, though clear and dry, was ex- tremely cold and frosty ; and we had nothing to make a fire in, but an old broken pitch-pot which could barely hold the wood. Our dinner consisted of some cold boiled beef and tongue, which we brought with us from St. John's; and there being some potatoes on board, we boiled them in a large iron tea-kettle. We appropriated it to that use, as it was not wanted to boil water for tea; having none of the requisites for that meal on board. About five in the afternoon we passed Windmill Point, and entered the lake. We kept as close as possible to the shore, the captain being obliged to report his vessel at the custom- house on Cum- berland Head. There being little wind, the sloop glided smoothly through the water; and as the evening closed in, the moon favoured us with her borrowed light, and enabled our unskilful mari- ners to avoid the craggy rocks which in many places line the shore. Some of us now wrapped ourselves up in buffalo robes, or great coats, and lay down in the cabin, more as a shelter from the cold frosty air than to procure repose. One or two remained upon deck; for there were not births enough for the whole of the party, having two Americans on board, whom we were to put ashore near the custom-house. 12 CANOE UPSET. About midnight the vessel arrived off Cumber- land Head, upon the hearing of which we all went upon deck. Being unwilling to cast anchor for the short time we had to stay at this place, we were obliged :.o run the vessel upon some rocks near the shore ; and not having a boat, we hailed a tavern at some distance in which we perceived a light. Nearly an hour elapsed before we could make any person hear. At length a man came down to the water-side ; and being told what we wanted, he soon after came along- side the sloop in a canoe half-full of water. The tin kettle was im- mediately handed down to him ; but his canoe was so very leaky that the water came in as fast as he baled it out. The man, therefore, finding his ex- ertions useless, desired the captain to get in and never mind the water. Robert accordingly com- plied, and was immediately followed by Mr. Ly- inan, who wished to get something warm to drink at the tavern ; as it then froze very hard, and our fire had gone out. At the moment I was almost inclined to accompany him ashore; but not ad- miring the idea of sitting nearly knee deep in water, I remained on board : and it was fortunate for me that I did ; for Mr. Lyman and the captain had scarcely seated themselves on the gunnel of the canoe when it upset, and all three were com- pletely ducked. On board we were at first alarmed, as they appeared to be out of their depth, and were INHUMAN RECEPTION ASHORE. 13 looking about for a rope to throw overboard, when we saw them upon their feet making towards the beach, nearly up to their necks in water. The man who had brought off the canoe ran home as fast as possible; while Mr. Lyman and the captain, hav- ing dragged the canoe ashore, made the best of their way to the tavern. When we found they were safe, we could hardly refrain from laughing at the adventure, and the disappointment of the boatman, who little ex- pected that a ducking in the lake at midnight, in frosty weather, would be his only reward. Our tin kettle was lost ; for though by the light of the moon we were enabled to see it, we could not fish it up again. Necessity, therefore, obliged us to resort to our last utensil on board, the tea-kettle, for baling out the water, which seemed to gain very fast upon us, and was nearly up to the cabin floor. About ten minutes after Mr. Lyman came on board in the canoe with his clothes frozen upon him. The people at the tavern had refused both him and Robert admittance; and though they men- tioned the accident they had met with, yet they were inhumanly ordered away, and not allowed even to dry themselves. Robert was then ob- liged to go to the custom-house, drenched to the skin ; and when he afterwards came on board his clothes had become a solid mass of ice! We had jilenty of brandy on board, and with that they 14 AMERICAN HOSPITALITY. contrived to throw off the effects of the cold ; so that fortunately neither of them received any in* jury. We were nearly two hours before we could get the vessel off the rocks. At length having suc- ceeded, we coasted along the shore till four o'clock in the morning, when we arrived in a small bay in the township of Shelburne, about 60 miles from St. John's, situate in the widest part of the lake. Here we went ashore to the first farm-house, at a little distance from the bay. The door was only on the latch, and we entered ; but the people were not yet up. Having awaked the master of the house, and told him our situation, he said we were welcome, and that he would get up immediately. In the mean time we collected some wood, and putting it upon the live embers in the fire-place soon made a large fire. This was a most com- fortable relief after the cold night we had passed on board our miserable sloop. We found that a considerable quantity of snow had fallen in this part of the lake, though we had not met with any during the passage. The master of the house with two of his sons were soon up, and having put the kettle on the fire made preparations for breakfast. About six o'clock his wife and daughters, two pretty little girls, came into the kitchen where we were as- aembled, and in the course of half an hour we LANDLORD'S DISINTERESTEDNESS. 15 bad the pleasure of sitting down to a substantial American breakfast, consisting of eggs, fried pork, beef-steaks, apple-tarts, pickles, cheese, cyder, tea, and toast dipped in melted butter and milk. We were surprised at seeing such a variety of eatables, as it was not a tavern ; but the farmer was a man of property, and carried on the farming business to a considerable extent. He showed us a great number of cheeses of his own making; and for churning butter he had made a kind of half barrel, with a place for one of his young boys to sit astride as on horseback. This machine moving up and down answered the double purpose of a churn for making butter, and a rocking horse for his chil- dren. Having made an excellent breakfast, we in- quired of our worthy host what we had to pay: he said he should be satisfied with a York shilling (about ?d. sterling): this, however, we considered too small a sum for the trouble we had given him and his family,and the handsome manner in which he had entertained us; we therefore gave him a quarter of a dollar each, that being the tavern price for breakfast. We then took our leave, and went on board our vessel, equally pleased with the dis- interested hospitality of the American farmer, as with the comfortable refreshment we had received at his house. His conduct formed a striking con- trast to that of the tavern-keeper at Cumberland 1G LAKE CHAMPLAItf. Head, who refused Mr. Lyman and the captain admittance after their accident. Lake Champlain is beautifully diversified with islands, some of which are of great extent and well settled. The Isle of La Motte lies at the entrance of the Richlieu river, near the tongue of land which forms Missisqui Bay to the eastward. But the most extensive is Grande Isle, which is 24 miles in length. In the centre of it is a small isthmus, over which the ferry-boats are dragged when cross- ing the lake : but for this narrow piece of land Grande Isle would be divided into two islands. The Americans have changed the French name to North Hero, and another island of considerable size below it is called the South Hero. The smaller isles which are scattered in various parts of the lake add much to the beauty of the scenery ; particu*- larly a cluster of islands called the Brothers, situ- ated at the south end of the lake, a few miles from Burlington. I was informed that in this part the lake had no bottom, at least none had yet been found, though soundings have been attempted with above 200 fathom of line. This beautiful piece of water was originally called Corlaer's lake, but received its present name from the celebrated M. de Champlain, founder of the colony of New France or Canada, of which he was governor. Along the shore of the lake are to be seen nu- merous houses ; many of them handsome, and all LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 17 faf superior to those of Canada, with well cutti* vated farms prettily varied by clumps of trees that have been purposely left in clearing the land. The west side belongs to the state of New York, and the east to the state of Vermont. The shores are in many places bold and elevated ; in others gently rising from the water's edge towards the base of lofty mountains, which are very numerous in both states, but particularly in Vermont, which may almost be reckoned the Switzerland of the United States. Some of the mountains are said to be nearly 4000 feet above the level of the sea. It was about eight o'clock in the morning of the 17th of November when we sailed from Shelburne Bay. The weather was fine, the wind favourable and blowing pretty fresh, so that we put to sea again (if 1 may be allowed the expression) in high spirits. The leaks in the vessel, however, in- creased so fast, that one hand was obliged to be constantly baling the water out. As this was so very troublesome, and indeed not altogether effectual, I went into the hold among the barrels of potash and kegs of butter to endeavour to find out the leak. After a long search I discovered the principal one close to the keelson. A small quantity of oakum and a caulking-iron happened to be on board, but neither hammer nor mallet. I however procured a thick piece of wood, and ma- naged to stop up the leak in a tolerable manner; VOL. IL C IS CROWN POINT. but was obliged to be very careful not to hammer too hard, lest I should have forced the iron through the bottom of the vessel, which was completely rotten. After this we baled the sloop nearly dry, and were but little troubled with the smaller leak during the remainder of the passage. About three o'clock in the afternoon we passed Crown Point, a place much celebrated during the French and American wars. The fortifications, which are now in a dilapidated state, are situated on a point of land that commands the entrance of South river. The surrounding country is lofty, and covered with thick woods interspersed with a few settlements. Soon after our entrance into South river we ran aground upon a shoal, and could not get the vessel off again without unloading part of her cargo. We immediately hailed a man on shore, who came otfto us in his boat. By his assistance we procured a large scow, and took out several barrels of potash, which lightened the vessel and caused her to float into deep water, where we anchored to take in the potash-. Having accomplished this, we engaged the man to pilot us- to Skenesborough, about forty miles further, as we found that the navigation became more intricate in the narrow channels, and the captain and his man were perfectly ignorant of the place. The delay we had experienced by this accident prevented us from getting under weigh till nearly FLOATING ICE. TICOKDEROGA. 19 dark ; soon after which it began to blow very hard from the north-west. We also met several shoals of ice, through which the vessel penetrated with difficulty; and David was continually calling out that it would cut the bows and sink her : and then to keep up our spirits, he related an accident that happened to one of the sloops upon the lake, which in endeavouring to get through the ice was cut through the bows, and sunk a considerable distance from shore, by which several lives were lost. The ice which we met with was not sufficiently thick to be dangerous, but it made noise enough to frighten a stouter heart than David's. The wind had also increased to a gale, and though in our favour, yet we did not like to venture into the narrow and intricate channel of Wood Creek be- fore day-light. We therefore came to anchor by advice of our new pilot, who by the by now seemed to be little better acquainted with the place than the other men ; yet as he still professed to know more than they, we reposed some degree of con- fidence in him. It was scarcely day-light the next morning when we got the vessel under weigh. We kept going at an easy rate under the jib, till we reached Ticonderoga, or, as David called it, ;c Old 77." This celebrated place, though now as much neglected as Crown P.oint, is situate on the western shore, ne.ar the entrance of a narrow inlet leading to Lake St. George, and commanding the c 2 20 DIFFICULT NAVIGATION. passage across Wood Creek. The fortifications were seated on an angle of land, very steep and lofty, surrounded on three sides by water, and covered with rocks. They were however com- manded by some eminences in their vicinity, and upon which the Americans threw up some works. We now saw the danger we should have been exposed to had we passed this place in the night. Two large piles appeared just above water in the middle of the river. They had been sunk by the Americans during the war, when they threw a boom across to obstruct the passage of the British flotilla. The entrance of the creek leading to Skenesborough was also extremely narrow, and intersected with several little islands or shoals covered with reeds and long grass, which in many places divided the creek into channels barely wide enough for the vessel to pass. Our pilot was often puzzled which channel to take, and confessed that it was a long time since he had been that way. A few stakes now and then pointed out the course; but for the most part we ran it at hazard, and with imminent danger of striking upon some of the shoals. The gale continued to increase, and we were obliged to use great precaution in avoiding the numerous islets with which this creek abounds. While we sailed in a straight direction the wind was directly aft; but being much oftener obliged WOOD CREEK. 21 to make a serpentine course, it was sometimes on our quarter, at other times on our beam, and frequently on the bow. The wind also came in such sudden flaws off the mountains which line the shores of this creek, that the sloop had several narrow escapes from being upset, and was often near on her beam ends. In one of the gusts the main boom broke away from the stern, knocked down the captain and pilot, and carried Mr. Stor- row's hat overboard. As we had no boat, we could not go after it, and the vessel was going too fast through the water to put about in such a nar- row and confined channel. We were then about ten miles from Skenesborough ; and as several of the smaller channels were frozen up, we expected every moment to find our passage obstructed by the ice. This narrow river, which has very properly re- ceived the name of Wood Creek, runs between a chain of lofty mountains, which present a series of hanging woods and rocks rising up in ranges one behind the other to an immense height. The whole appears in a complete state of nature, co- vered with immeasurable forests : nor did we meet with more than a few solitary huts during the whole of our passage through this labyrinthian stream. Tne scenery was indeed sublime, but very forbiddi ng ; and the season of the year by no means tended to soften its aspect. 22 WHITEHALL, About noon we arrived within three miles of Skenesborough, near a bend of the river, where we found our progress suddenly arrested by the ice, which entirely blocked up the channel. The wind was powerful enough to have forced the vessel through it, and we cut a passage for two or three hundred yards ; but finding the bows of the sloop much chafed, and apprehensive that they would not long withstand such a pressure of ice, we ran her ashore, and made her fast to the trees. We were now in the midst of a dreary forest ; and though but a few miles from the place of our de<- stination, yet there was neither road nor path to it. We, however., all set out under the guidance of our pilot, who knew the direction in which Skenesborough lay, and with our baggage upon our shoulders commenced our march through the woods. After nearly two hours toilsome walk over broken trunks of trees, up hill and down dale, across bogs and through brushwood and brambles, we arrived at Skenesborough. Here we put up at the only inn in the place, and were glad enough to rest and refresh ourselves after our fatigues. The village of Skenesborough, or, as it is now called by the Americans, Whitehall, is situate in a wild romantic country as yet but little culti- vated or improved. It contains very few houses : but its principal resources are derived from the falls in its vicinity, upon which are built some saw- WHITEHALL. 23 and flour-mills ; and from the commerce carried on between the state of New York and Canada, it being the port or harbour for most of the vessels employed in that trade, and in transporting goods to the different settlements along the lake. It is only within the last twenty years that much pro- gress has been made in settling the lands in this part of the country. During the American war they formed almost one continued wood, contain- ing merely a few wretched roads or intricate paths* It was here that General Burgoyne and his army were delayed so many weeks in opening the roads through the woods to Fort Edward, which occa- sioned many of those difficulties that afterwards led to the capture of that fine army. I am told that when the General found he was hemmed in on every side, and knew he must surrender, he gave permission to his officers and soldiers to take advantage of the night, and make their escape into Canada. Upwards of 2000 escaped in this man- ner, and went off in small parties with Indians for their guides. Captain Ferguson of the Canadian fencibles, whom 1 have before mentioned, was then in Burgoyne's army, and went off with his father, who was a captain in one of the regiments. They made their escape at night without any Indian for their guide, and were forty-three days in the woods before they reached St. John's,, during which they had no other subsistence than the 24 SARATOGA. leaves and bark of trees, and what little game they could pick up. I regretted that during my journey into the States 1 had no opportunity of visiting Saratoga, the memorable scene of that unfortunate event. But I understand that it remains nearly in the same state as described by the Duke de Roche- foucault Liancourt. The annexed engraving is from a copy which I took of the drawing of an American gentleman, and represents the situation of the respective eminences on which the English, German, and American troops were posted, parti- cularly the encampment where General Burgoyne terminated his melancholy campaign. At the time the Duke visited this memorable spot it belonged, together with a considerable tract of country in the vicinity, to Mr, John Schuyler, a son of the American general of that name. He is since dead ; but the house in which he resided stands exactly on the spot where this important occurrence took place. Fish Creek, which flows close to the house, formed the line of defence of the camp of the English general, which was situ- ated on an eminence about a quarter of a mile from the dwelling. The camp was also entirely surrounded by a mound of earth to strengthen its defence. In the rear of the camp the German troops were posted by divisions on a commanding height, communicating with the eminence en SARATOGA. 25 which General Burgoyne was encamped. The right wing of the German corps had a communi- cation with the left wing of the English, and the left extended towards the river. General Gates was encamped on the other side of the creek, at the distance of an eighth of a mile from General Burgoyne ; his right wing stretched towards the plain, but he endeavoured to shelter his troops as much as possible from the enemy's fire until he resolved to form the attack. General Nelson, at the head of the American militia, oc- cupied the heights on the other side of the river, and engaged the attention of the left wing of the English, while other American corps observed the movements of the right wing. In this position General Burgoyne surrendered his army. His provision was nearly consumed ; but he was well provided with artillery and am- munition. The spot remains exactly as it then was, excepting that the bushes, which were cut down in front of the two armies, are since grown up again. Not the least alteration, says the Duke, has taken place since that time ; the entrench- ments still exist ; nay the foot path is still seen on which the adjutant of General Gates proceeded to the General with the ultimatum of the American commander. The spot on which the council of war was held remains unaltered ; and, in short, all the interesting memorabilia of that melancholy 26 AMERICAN STAGE-WAGGON. catastrophe have hitherto been most inviolably pre- served. No monument or other recording emblem has yet been erected either by the American go- vernment or by individuals to perpetuate the re- membrance of an event which tended so materially to establish the independence of their country. Perhaps none would be necessary were it possible to maintain the scene of action in its primitive state ; but as that is not likely to be the case, the neglecting to raise some lasting memorial of the victory shows a want of respect for the memory of those brave men who sealed with their blood the independence of the United States. The sight of such a monument would inspirit their descendants, and teach them to venerate that which had been so dearly purchased. Having refreshed ourselves at the inn, and set- tled for our passage with Captain Robert, we en- gaged with a waggoner to carry us and our baggage to Troy. He wanted twenty dollars for the journey ; but Mr. Lyman, being acquainted with the impo- sition of those gentry, refused to give him more than twelve, which he at length agreed to take, though not without many professions of his own moderation in so doing. The roads being bad at this season of the year, we could not procure the stage which otherwise runs upon this road. The waggon we hired is common in the States, and is used by the country people to carry their provi- AMERICAN STAGE-WAGGON. 2? sions to market, or to transport goods from one part of the country to the other. A great number are constantly employed on the road between Skenesborough and Troy. It is a long narrow cart upon four wheels, and drawn by two horses abreast. When used as a stage for travelling, a couple of chairs are placed in it : but it is a very rough method of riding ; for the waggon has no springs, and a traveller ought to have excellent nerves to endure the shaking and jolting of such a vehicle over bad roads. 28 LEAVE SKENESBOROUGH. CHAPTER XXVL Leave Skenesborough American Taverns Hire another fFaggon Dine at Salem Captain White Humorous Waggoner Turnpikes, a profitable Speculation Travelling by Night- banting burgh- - Troy Newspapers Federalists and DemocratsStage coach Steam-koatCity of Albany ; its improved State Gregory's Ho- tel Mode of living at Taverns Town of Hud- son Experiment Sloop a new Packet Fesse!- The Hudson River Beautiful Scenery Theo- logical Dispute Entertainment on board the Sloop Major Andre West Point Arrival at New York Appearance of the City at Night. IT was about four o'clock in the afternoon when we left Skenesborough. The road lay through a newly-settled country, which presented on both sides a dreary aspect ; though it was perhaps ow- ing as much to the season of the year as the nature of the country. The woods in many places had been cleared by burning the bark off the trees, and numbers of them yet remained standing, though vegetation was destroyed. The other parts of the farms were covered with the stumps of trees, and AMERICAN TAVERNS. 2J inclosed by worm fences, which gave to these set- tlements a very rough appearance. They were however numerous, and contained several good houses. About seven o'clock we arrived at Granville, a small town containing a church and several neat houses. We put up for the night at a very good tavern, where we were supplied with an excellent supper composed of as great a variety as we met with for breakfast at Shelburne, and which is cus- tomary at all the taverns throughout the northern States. One large room up stairs contained above a dozen beds, so that we each had a separate one; a thing not always to be met with at every tavern in the States. But the practice of putting two or three in a bed is now little exercised, except at very indifferent taverns, and they are chiefly confined to the back parts of the country. Within the last twenty years the States have been so much improved, that good inns are established in almost every town and village along the principal roads, and the accommodations of many of them are equal to those of England. Travellers are not, therefore, liable to have a strange man step into their bed, as was the case formerly. During the whole of my tour through the States I never had occasion to bundle, though I have been sometimes asked if I wished to have a single bed. We breakfasted at six the next morning, and 3O ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. hired another waggon for eight dollars, there not being room enough in the other without sitting extremely crowded. Mr. Leavens, the master of the tavern, was to drive us ; and having divided our baggage equally between the two waggons, we procured double chairs, which are made for the purpose, and placed them in the fore part of the waggon. They contained two persons, and the driver sat in front. Being thus more comfortably accommodated than on the preceding evening, we began our journey in good spirits. It was well that we were provided with large buffalo robes and great coats, for the morning was excessively cold, and the snow fell in abundance. I had not an opportunity so late in the year to see the country to advantage, but I perceived that it improved the further we proceeded on our journey. It is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, small woods, clumps of trees, corn-fields, pastures, and meadow lands. The soil is said to be fertile, and it appeared in general to be well cleared from the stumps of trees, which abounded in the plantations through which we had passed the preceding day. Many very handsome houses and churches are built near the road side, all of wood ; but constructed very neatly with clap- boards and shingles, which cover the heavy tim- bers. Many of the houses are built in the style of English country dwellings of the modeVn taste; SALEM. 31 some of them two or three stories high, painted white, and ornamented with green Venetian shades. The churches are uncommonly neat, painted white, and kept in excellent order. They have good spires, and some of them bells. We passed through Hebron, and some other small villages, and arrived at Salem to dinner. This little town consists of one street of handsome houses, many of them red brick, but the greater part of wood. They are built with considerable taste, and are ornamented much like the other buildings I have mentioned. Some of them are shops and inns ; but the majority appear to be private houses belonging to gentlemen of pro- perty in this part of the country. It is quite a new town, and apparently in a state of progres- sive improvement. After dinner we proceeded on our journey. Mr. Leavens's horses being but indifferent, he took the lead with his waggon, in which were Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Welch. Mr. Storrow, Mr. Lyman, and myself, followed in the next waggon. Our driver had an excellent pair of horses, which would have knocked up those of Leavens's had they taken the lead as they did in the morning. The roads being covered with snow also obliged us to slacken our pace. This tedious travelling was by no means to our taste, and we should possibly have lost our good humour, had 32 HUMOROUS WAGGONER. not the arch whimsicality of our driver, who was called Captain White, furnished ns with abundant matter for mirth* He entertained us with many humorous stories, and had always something smart to say to every waggoner or person that passed us. He spoke to several people of conse- quence in the country with the utmost freedom. To one, it was, " Why, Major, you look as if you couldn't help it this cold day" To another, " Na- tion bad road, General. 1 " To a third, who was a judge, " Awful weather, master, and sure enough your nose looks blue uporit? They all seemed to know him, and took his jokes in good part ; for it afterwards turned out, that our waggoner was himself a captain in the army! He was very se- vere upon his brothers of the whip, whom he de- clared to be the greatest rogues in the state of New- York, and assured us, that we might consider our- selves very lucky in having fallen into his hands, as he was the only honest one among thejn, save and except his friend Master Leavens, who was as worthy a fellow as himself. We arrived at a tavern about eight miles from Salem, just as it was dark. Here we halted for a few hours to refresh ourselves and the horses. About eleven o'clock we proceeded on our route to Troy. As we travelled during the night, it is impossible for me to describe the appearance of this part of the country ; and the moon did not LANSINGBURGH. 33 condescend, to enliven us with her pale beams. But our driver informed us that it was in a better state of cultivation and improvement than that through which we had passed. There are several turnpikes along this road, by which means it is kept in good repair. They are common through- out the northern and middle States, and have tended greatly to improve the country; for as soon as a good road is opened through the woods, com- municating between the greater towns, the coun- try which was before a trackless forest becomes settled, and in a few years the borders of the road are lined with habitations. The expenses are de- frayed by shares subscribed by a certain number of persons, who form themselves into a company under an act of the legislature. It is a specula- tion that few have failed in, for the traffic on the road soon increases the value of the capital. It would be well if Canada was to imitate the example of her neighbours in this respect. This night we passed through Cambridge, Ho- sick, Pittstown, and Schatchoke, all small neat towns. The further we went to the southward the less snow we found on the ground, and by the time we arrived at Lansingburgh it entirely disappeared. We reached this town about fouf o'clock in the morning ; but it was yet so dark, that I could only discern that it consisted of one long street of large brick houses, many of them VOL. II. D 34 apparently handsome buildings. Troy is situated but a few miles from Lansingburgh, and we ar- rived there about five o'clock. We put up at a large inn ; and as we bad now done with our waggon-drivers we paid them the twenty dollars, according to our agreement, and parted mutually satisfied. We had no cause to complain of either of them, and the rough humour of Captain White had afforded us much mirth. Troy is a well built town, consisting chiefly of one street of handsome red brick houses, upwards of a mile and a half in length. There are two OP three short streets which branch off from the main one ; but it is in the latter that all the principal stores, warehouses, and shops are situated. It also contains several excellent inns and taverns* The houses, which are all new, are lofty, and built with much taste and simplicity, though conveni- ence and accommodation seem to have guided the architect more than ornament. The deep red brick, well pointed, gives the buildings an air of neatness and cleanliness seldom rnet with in old towns : but I cannot say that I admire it so much as the yellow brick in England. The town is built on the east shore of the Hudson or North, River close to the beach, and about six miles above Albany, which is situated on the opposite shore. Troy has been erected within the last twenty years, and is now a place of considerable import- FEDERALISTS AND DEMOCRATS. 35 anee. The trade which it has opened with the new settlements to the northward, through the States of New York and Vermont as far as Ca- nada, is very extensive ; and in another twenty years it promises to rival the old established city of Albany. Its prosperity is indeed already looked upon with an eye of jealousy by the people of the latter place. While we were at breakfast, newspapers came in from New York, containing accounts of the English expedition to Copenhagen, and the re- fusal of the British government to agree to the proposals of Mr. Pinckney, to negotiate a treaty upon the same terms as had been before so haughtily rejected and sent back by Mr. Jefferson. We were much interested with the news, and th$ Americans appeared apprehensive that a war would take place between the two countries. Several strangers came into the room, and began to make some observations on the news : but none of our party made them any reply ; for the Americans are so extremely captious upon political subjects, that they can never speak of them without enter- ing into a dispute; and disputes generally termi- nate in quarrels. I soon perceived that the people were divided into two parties, the federalists and the democrats, and that both were equally violent in their political altercations. The federa- lists are as partial to the English as the democrats D2 36 STAGE-COACH. are to the French, and the people of those natfonS who reside in the States enlia't themselves under the banners of these two parties. I shall have an opportunity of speaking more particularly of them in a future chapter, and for the present shall pro- ceed with our journey. After breakfast we crossed the Hudson in a ferry-boat, and got into the stage which was going to Albany. It was similar to the one in which I had travelled from La Prairie to St. John's, and is in general use throughout the States. It is in the form of a large coach, with open sides and front, and flat roof supported by eight pillars. The pannels do not come up higher than the hip, and in wet or cold weather leather curtains are let down on each side ; the buttons and straps are however frequently broken off, so that the wind and rain often find a ready admittance. This kind of carriage, notwithstanding its defects, is far su- perior to the Canadian calash for long journeys, as the latter affords not the least shelter. It is always drawn by four horses, which in well settled parts of the United States are as good as the generality of English stage horses. The Americans have not yet introduced the close English stage with glass windows, probably on account of the hot weather which prevails there much more than in England, and the indifferent roads which are yet in existence in many parts of the Union, particu- STEAM-BOAT. 3? larly to the southward, and in the back settle- ments. We rode along the border of the Hudson, which is prettily adorned with several small islands. It is sufficiently deep to admit sloops up to Troy, and flat-bottomed boats much higher. The sur- rounding country is well settled, and presents to the eye the pleasing prospect of rich cultivated lands, woods, towns, villages, and scattered habi- tations. We arrived at Albany about noon, and put up at the Tontine coffee-house kept by Gre- gory. We now learnt that the river was frozen over several miles below Albany, and that the steam-boat in which we intended to have taken our passage to New York was laid up for the winter. We were much disappointed at this news, as we were very desirous of seeing the construction and management of this celebrated vessel, which travels at the rate of jive miles an hour against wind and tide. It was built about foijr years ago, under the direction of Mr. Fulton, an American gentle- man of great mechanical abilities. The length of the boat is 160 feet, and her width in propor- tion, so as not too much to impede her sailing. The machine which moves her wheels is called a twenty-horse machine, or equal to the power of so many horses, and is kept in motion by steam from a copper boiler eight or ten feet in length. TJie wheels on each side are similar to those of 38 CITY OF ALBANY. water-in ills, and under cover; they are moved backward or forward, separately or together, at pleasure. Her principal advantage is in calms or against head winds. When the wind is fair, light square sails, &c. are employed to increase her speed. Her accommodations include fifty-two births besides sofas, and are said to be equal, if not superior, to any vessel that sails on the river. They are necessarily extensive, as all the space unoccupied by the machinery is fitted up in a convenient arid elegant manner. Her route be- tween Albany and New York is a distance of l6o miles, which she performs regularly twice a week, sometimes in the short period of thirty-two hours, exclusive of detention by taking in and landing passengers. She carries from 100 to 120 people. The fare from New York to Albany is seven dol- lars. The city of Albany has of late years rapidly in- creased in size, wealth, and population. A num- ber of handsome dwelling-houses and public build- ings have been erected, and the old heavy Dutch houses with the gable end towards the street are considerably diminished. One of the princi- pal streets has a great resemblance to the Hay- market in London, being nearly the same width, and situated on an ascent. Albany contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and ranks next to the city of Jvtew York in that state. The trade which is car- MODE OF LIVING AT TAVERNS. 3J ried-on in this city with the new settlements to the north vvard arid westward is very considerable, and is daily increasing. We had excellent ac- commodations at Gregory's, which is equal to many of our hotels in London. It is the custom in all the American taverns, from the highest to the lowest, to have a sort of table d'hdte, or public table, at whicfy the inmates of the house and tra- vellers dine together at a certain hour. It is also frequented by many single gentlemen belonging to the town. At Gregory's, upwards of thirty sat down to dinner, though there were not more than a dozen who resided in the house. A stranger is thus soon introduced to an acquaintance with the people, and if he is travelling alone, he will find at these tables some relief frojn the ennui of his situation. At the better sort of American taverns or hotels, very excellent dinners are provided, consisting of almost every thing in season. The hour is from two to three o'clock, and there are three meals in the day. They breakfast at eight -o'clock upon rump steaks, fish, eggs, and a variety of cakes, with tea or coffee. The last meal is at seven in the evening, and consists of as substantial fare as the breakfast, with the addition of cold fowl, ham, &c. The price of boarding at these houses is from a dollar and a half to two dollars per day. Brandy, hollands, and other spirits, are allowed at dinner; but every other liquor is paid 40 HUDSON. for extra. English breakfasts and teas, generally speaking, are meagre repasts compared with those of America; and as far as I had an opportunity of observing, the people live, with respect to eating, in a much more luxurious manner than we do, particularly in the great towns and their neigh- bourhoods. But their meals, I think, are com- posed of too great a variety, and of too many things, to be conducive to health; and I have little doubt tut that many of their diseases are engendered by gross diet, and the use of animal food at every meal. Many private families live nearly in the same style as at these houses, and have as great variety upon their tables. Formerly, pies, pud- dings, and cyder used to grace the breakfast table; but they are now discarded from the genteeler houses, and are found only at the small taverns and farm-houses in the country. i Having hired a stage to take us to Hudson, about thirty miles below, on the east side of the river, we left Albany the following morning, and crossed over to the opposite shore in the ferry- boat. At the top of a hill, which rises gradually from the water side, we had a beautiful view of the city and its environs. Several gentlemen's * O seats appeared to great advantage, and the plan- tations, gardens, meadow lands, and orchards, in- terspersed among a number of handsome build- ings, had a very picturesque effect. I only re- NEW PACKET-VESSEL. , 41 gretted that I was deprived of the pleasure of view- ing such a pleasing scene at a more congenial season of the year. The day was however remarkably fine, which made some amends for the sombre tint of nature. The country through which we tra- velled this day was fruitful, well cultivated, and adorned with several neat farms and villages. In the evening we arrived at Hudson. This town is of modern construction, and like Troy consists of one very long street. The houses are of wood or brick ; many of them built with taste, and all spa- cious and commodious. Shops and warehouses are numerous, and there are several large inns; from which I conceived that a considerable trade was carried on between this town and the interior. It has every appearance of a thriving settlement; and its situation is elevated and advantageous for commerce. There are several large brick ware- houses near the wharfs for the reception of goods ; and a great many small vessels sail continually between this town and New York. Ship-build- ing is carried on here, and a vessel of 3 or 400 tons was just ready for launching. Several other vessels of that size were also in the harbour. The next morning, Sunday 22d November, we embarked on board the Experiment, a fine new sloop of 130 tons, built expressly for carrying passengers between Hudson and New York. The whole vessel was handsomely fitted up. It had in cue pass money. Between the bar and the forecastle a very complete kitchen fitted up with a gcod fire-place, copper boilers, and every convenience for cooking. The forecastle was appropriated to the use of the sailors. The passage-money was fi v@ dollars, for which the passengers were provided during the voyage with three meals a-day, in* eluding spirits ; all other liquors vyere to be sepa/ rately paid for. About nine o'clock in the morning we left 1 wharf, which was crowded with people to see till* vessel depart ; for it was the largest and best trf the kind, except the steam-boat, that sailed cti the river as a packet. It had not been established above six months. The mainmast, boom, an 4 mainsail were of an immense size for a sloop, biitj; we had ten or a dozen fine young fellows to work the vessel ; and having a smart breeze, we soon left the town of Hudson far behind us. Mr. HUDSON RIVER. 43 Elihu Bunker, who commanded the vessel, was part owner as well as captain, and seemed to be a plain religious sort of man. He had more the look of a parson than a sailor; and had posted up a long list of regulations at the cabin door, which, if properly enforced, were well calculated to keep his passengers in good order. In truth, something of the kind was necessary; for we had upwards of fifty persons on board, nearly all men. Among the forbidden articles were play ing at cards and smoking in the cabin. The morning was remarkably fine; the wind favoured us, and we had every prospect of an agreeable voyage. The month of November was but ill adapted to view the country to advantage; for the gay verdure of the fields and forests was now supplanted by the brown and gloomy hue of winter. Yet the scenes that presented themselves along the shores of the Hudson were in some places of that grand and romantic description, and in others so beautifully picturesque, that they could not fail to interest the spectator at any season of the year. This river affords some of the noblest landscapes and scenery that are to be found in any part of North America. Nature and art have both contributed to render its shores at once sublime and beautiful. The river in many places is intersected with numerous islands. In others it is diversified with 44 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. handsome windings. Sometimes its waters are contracted between stupendous rocks that frown aloft in sullen majesty. At other times they are expanded to a great extent between a fine open country containing well cultivated settlements. The rocks which line the shore in numerous parts of the river are steep and rugged ; and rise to such a height above the water's edge, that the largest trees which grow upon their summits are dwindled in appearance to the smallest shrubs. Behind these rocks are ranges of enormous mountains which extend far into the country, and are covered with trackless forests. " Gigantic, vast, O'ershadowing mountains soar, invested thick Their shaggy waists, and to their summits far A wilderness unbounded to the eye, Profuse, and pathless, unsubdued by toil. Diminutive beneath, the Hudson, deep Coerced by rocks, and silent penetrates The solitudinous and woodland scene ; struggling for a passage." In other places the shores rise from the water's edge into small hills, and descending on the oppo- site side form beautiful little valleys ; beyond them arise other accliyjties, which at length terminate at the base of lofty mountains. The country thus gently undulated is covered with rich farms, plan- tations, orchards, and gardens, and studded with BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 43 neat and handsome dwelling-houses. The culti- vated parts are intersected with small woods, cop- pices, and clumps of trees, which add much to the diversity of the scenery, and form a pleasing con- trast to lawns, meadows, and corn-fields. In se- veral places along shore are elegant mansions and country seats belonging to the principal persons in the State of New York. Some were pointed out to us, and the names of their owners men- tioned ; but I only recollect those of Mr. Living- ston and Mrs. Montgomery, the widow of the ge- neral who fell at Quebec. The river is also orna- mented with several little towns and villages near the water-side ; and except in the neighbourhood of the rocks and mountains the country appeared to be well inhabited. The fineness of the weather contributed much to heighten the beauty of the scenes which every where opened upon our view as the vessel glided with the stream. In short, words are inadequate to do justice to the variety and splendour of the objects that present them- selves at every turn and winding of this beautiful river. The pencil of a Claude can alone delineate them as they deserve, and pourtray their beauties with fidelity and truth. We had not more than half a dozen ladies on board, the rest of our numerous company were gentlemen of all descriptions. Most of them ap- peared to be methodists, baptists, and other dis- 46 THEOLOGICAL DISPUTE. senters, who are very numerous in the States ; and it being Sunday, several of them got together and sung hymns. They had good voices, and sung in different keys ; but there was a melancholy mo* notony in the tunes which I did not ranch admire. We had two singing groups; one on deck, and the other in the cabin. Beside which, there was a third group assembled round a methodist parson, who harangued for a considerable time with much self-satisfaction, until he happened unfortunately to broach some curious doctrines, when he was cut short by a gentleman, who, from the opi- nions he advanced in opposition to the parson, seemed to doubt the authenticity of revealed re- ligion. I really believe, however, that he was not in earnest, and only started difficulties to puzzle the other, who now quitted his preaching to enter the lists with the sceptic as he called him. For upwards of two hours they combated each other with great ardour, affording the rest of the company high entertainment. The gentleman pointed out all the incongruities in the Old and New Testament, seeming to doubt every thing which had been accomplished by miracles, and challenged the other to prove their authenticity. The parson proceeded in the common-place way to satisfy the doubts of his antagonist. In some instances he succeeded tolerably well; but in others he was completely confounded, and was obliged ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD THE SLOOF, 4? to digress from the subject to something which he thought unanswerable by his opponent. The lat- ter, however, endeavoured to keep him always to the point ; and the parson was at times so much perplexed, that he became the butt of the com- pany. He however bore their jokes with great good humour and patience; but finding that he could not satisfy the gentleman's scruples, he be- gan upon politics. We soon discovered that he was a Jeffersonian; and there happening to be a large majority of federalists on board, among whom were the editor and printer of the Albany Balance, a strong anti-democratic paper, the poor parson got most roughly handled ; and I per- ceived that it was a more difficult task for him to keep his temper upon politics than upon re- ligion. In this manner the morning was passed, and we were glad to find our party of disputants and poli- ticians sit down to dinner with great cordiality, and in the pleasures of the table forget the fret- fulness of an empty stomach. Our dinner con- sisted of every thing in season, and was admirably served up : indeed, it would not have disgraced a tavern in London. At seven o'clock we had tea and coffee together with the cold turkeys and ham left at dinner. This was our last meal. At ten o'clock some few of the passengers turned into their births : others, not inclined to go to bed so 48 ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD THE SLOOP. soon, called for wine, and began to sing some pa-* triotic songs, such as Hail Columbia, &c. One of them sung several English songs, which not exactly suiting the democratic principles of two or three persons on boardj the captain came into the cabin, and said that he was desired by some of the passengers to request, that as it was Sunday night the gentlemen would not sing: it also prevented those who had lain down from going to sleep. The poor method ist parson was immediately su- spected, and charged with endeavouring to inter- rupt the conviviality of the company. He however came forward and assured them he was innocent of the charge. The jovial party declared that it was very hard they were not permitted to amuse themselves with a few innocent songs, when they had so quietly listened all the morning to the dis- mal psalm-singing and political disputes of other gentlemen : but as it was near twelve o'clock they acquiesced in the wishes of the captain. They were, however, determined to have another bottle or two of wine ; and sat up a considerable time longer, cracking their jokes upon the parson, and on those who had expressed their disapprobation of singing songs on Sunday. We sailed all night ; but as the wind shifted to an opposite quarter, we made but little progress. The next morning it became more favourable ; and the weather being fine, we had an agreeable ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 49 passage. The prospects that presented themselves were equally beautiful and varied as yesterday; but the country was more rocky and mountainous. This day we passed the fort at West Point, where Arnold betrayed the cause of his country, and brought upon the gallant Major Andre an igno- minious death. " Far within the lofty desert we beheld The fort, and thundering cannon on its brow, Raised on the western rocks, where travellers long The base and vain design that had betray'd Columbia, shall relate." About ten o'clock at night we arrived at New York ; it was very dark, and as we sailed by the town, lighted lamps and windows sparkled every- where, amidst the houses, in the streets, and along the water-side. The wharfs were crowded with shipping, whose tall masts mingled with the build- ings, and together with the spires and cupolas of the churches, gave the city an appearance of mag- nificence, which the gloomy obscurity of the night served to increase. When the vessel was made fast to one of the wharfs, I went ashore with Mr. Mackenzie, Mr. Lyman, and the rest of our party to find a board- ing house. Mrs. Loring's house in the Broad- way, where we intended to have lodged, was full ; so that, after rambling about the streets for an o VOL. II. E 50 ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. hour, we were obliged to return on board again for the night. After so long an absence from London, I could not help experiencing a degree of satisfaction at once more treading the pavement of a large and populous city. Neither Montreal nor Quebec had the least resemblance to that which I had left: but New York seemed to pre- sent an exact epitome of it ; and at the distance of 3000 miles, I now pleased myself with the idea of finding the manners, customs, and institu- tions of my own country reflected on this portion of the new world. BOARDING-HOUSE. 61 CHAPTER XXVII. Boar ding- House Evacuation of New York cele- brated on 25th November The Harbour The Broadway Bowery Road Shops Hotels - Public Buildings The Park Caterpillars The Theatre Mr. Cooper's Performances Richard the Third Fauxhall Ranela^h Wharfs Warehouses Shipping Slate of New York before the Embargo Bus fie and Activity which prevailed Melancholy Effects of the Em- bargo Annihilation of Commerce. THE next morning we left the sloop, and took up our abode with a Quaker lady in Maiden lane, to whom we were introduced by Mr. Lyman. Her boarders consisted mostly of young merchants of her own family, which was very respectable, and nearly related to some of the principal people in New York. Of our party I was the only one, at the end of a fortnight, who remained in that city. Mr. Lyman returned to Montreal; Mr. Welch sailed for Charleston in South Carolina; Mr. Storrow went to Boston ; and Mr. Mackenzie sailed in the British packet for England. Thus I was soon separated from my fellow travellers, E 2 b2 EVACUATION OF NEW YORK. for whom, in the short period of eight days, I had imbibed a friendship that made me part with them reluctantly: so much do we attach ourselves to those who have partaken of our pleasures and adventures, or participated in our dangers and anxieties. The day after our arrival, being the 25th of November, was the anniversary of the evacuation of New York by the British troops at the peace of 1/83. The militia, or rather the volunteer coips, assembled from different parts of the city on the grand battery by the water-side, so called from a fort having been formerly built on the spot, though at present it is nothing more than a lawn for the recreation of the inhabitants, and for the purpose of military parade. The troops did not amount to 600, and were gaudily dressed in a va- riety of uniforms, every ward in the city having a different one: some of them with helmets ap- peared better suited to the theatre than the field. The general of the militia and his staff were dressed in the national uniform of blue, with buff facings. They also wore large gold epaulets and feathers, which altogether had a very showy appearance. Some gun-boats were stationed off the battery, and fired several salutes in honour of the day, and the troops paraded through the streets leading to the water-side; but the crowd being very great, T did not think the ceremony worth the trouble NEW YORK. 53 of following them, and therefore returned home. I was afterwards told that they went through the forms practised on taking possession of the city, manoeuvring and firing feux cle joie, &c. as oc- curred on the evacuation of New York. One of the corps consisted wholly of Irishmen, dressed in light green jackets, white pantaloons, and helmets. The city of New York is situated on the island of Manhattan, at the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers. The island is separated from the continental part of the state of New York by the Haerlem river. Its length is about sixteen miles, and its breadth varies from a quarter to a mile and a half. The bay is about nine miles long, and three broad, without reckoning the branches of the rivers on each side of the town. From the ocean at Sandy Hook to. the city is not more than twenty-eight miles. The water is deep enough to float the largest vessels. Ships of ninety guns have anchored opposite the city. There they lie land-locked, and well secured from winds and storms ; and fleets of the greatest number have ample space for mooring. During the revolu- tionary war New York was the great rendezvous for the British fleet. From the time of its sur- render in 1776 to tne peace of 1788 our ships of war passed all seasons of the year here in security. It has been often observed that the cold of win- 54 THE HARBOUR AND ISLANDS. ter has less effect upon the water of New York harbour than in several places further to the south. When Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Alexandria are choked up by ice in severe winters, as in that of 1804, New York suffers scarcely any inconve- nience from it. This is owing partly to the salt- ness of the sound and the bay ; while the Dela- ware, Patapsco, and Potomack, at the respective cities above mentioned are fresh, and consequently more easily frozen. The water at New York differs but little in saltness from the neighbouring Atlantic. The openness of the port is also to be ascribed in part to the greater ebb and flow of the tide. Another reason of the greater fitness of New York for winter navigation is the rapidity of the currents. The strength of these in ordinary tides, and more especially when they are agitated by storms, is capable of rending -even the solid ice, and reducing it to fragments. And although the whole harbour was covered by a bridge of very compact ice in 17&0, to the serious alarm of the British garrison, the like has never occurred since. The islands in the vicinity of New York are Long Island, Staten Island, Governors Bedlow's and Ellis' s hlands. The first is of very considerable extent, being 120 miles in length, and about eight miles in breadth. It is a fertile and well culti- vated piece of land, inhabited chiefly by the de- scendants of the old Dutch settlers. BROADWAY AND LOWER Y ROAD. 55 New York is the first city in the United States for wealth, commerce, and population ; as it also is the finest and most agreeable for its situation and huildings. It has neither the narrow and con- fined irregularity of Boston, nor the monotonous regularity of Philadelphia, but a happy medium between both. When the intended improvements are completed, it will be a very elegant and com- modious town, and worthy of becoming the ca- pital of the United States, for it seems that Wash- ington is by no means calculated for a metropo- litan city. New York has rapidly improved within the last twenty years ; and land which then sold in that city for fifty dollars is now worth i,5OO. The Broadway and Bowery Road are the two finest avenues in the city, and nearly of the same width as Oxford street in London. The first com- mences from the Grand Battery, situate at the ex- treme point of the town, and divides it into two unequal parts. It is upwards of two miles in length, though the pavement does not extend above a mile and a quarter: the remainder of the road consists of straggling houses, which are the commencement of new streets already planned out. The Bowery Road commences from Chatham- street, which branches off from the Broadway to the right, by the side of the Park. After pro- ceeding about a mile and a half it joins the Broad- way, and terminates the plan which is intended 56 HOUSES AND SHOPS. to be carried into effect for the enlargement of the city. Much of the intermediate spaces between these large streets, and from thence to the Hud- son and East rivers, is yet unbuilt upon, or con- sists only of unfinished streets and detached build- ings. The houses in the Broadway are lofty and well built. They are constructed in the English style, and differ but little from those of London at the west end of the town ; except that they are uni- versally built of red brick. In the vicinity of the Battery, and for some distance up the Broadway, they are nearly all private houses, and occupied by the principal merchants and gentry of New York ; after which the Broadway is lined with large commodious shops of every description, well stocked with European and India goods, and ex- hibiting as splendid and varied a show in their windows as can be met with in London. There are several extensive book stores, print-shops, music-shops, jewellers, and silversmiths; hatters, linen-drapers, milliners, pastry-cooks, coach- makers, hotels, and coffee-houses. The street is well paved, and the foot-paths are chiefly bricked. In Robinson-street the pavement before one of the houses, and the steps of the door, are com- posed entirely of marble. The City Hotel is the most extensive building of that description in New York; and nearly re- PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 5? sembles, in size and style of architecture, the Lon- don Tavern in Bishopsgate-street. The ground- floor of the hotel at New- York is, however, con- verted into shops, which have a very handsome appearance in the Broadway. Mechanic Hall is another large hotel at the corner of Robinson- street, in the Broadway. It was erected by the society of mechanics and tradesmen, who asso- ciated tjiemselves for charitable purposes, under an act of the legislature in 1792. There are three churches in the Broadway : one of them called Grace Church, is a plain brick building, recently erected: the other two are St. Paul's ami Trinity; both handsome structures, built with an intermix- ture of white and brown stone. The adjoining churchyards, which occupy a large space of ground., railed in from the street, and crowded vvith tomb-stones, are far from being agreeable spectacles in such a populous city. At the com- mencement of the Broadway, near the battery, stands the old Government-house, now converted into offices for the customs. Before it is a small lawn railed in, and in the centre is a stone pedes- tal, upon which formerly stood a leaden statue of George the Third. In the revolutionary war it was pulled down by the populace, and made into bullets. The City Hall, where the courts of justice are held, is situated in Wall-street, leading from the 58 THE PARK. coffee-house slip by the water side into the Broad- way. It is an old heavy building, and very ina- dequate to the present population and wealth of New York. A Court-house on a larger scale, and more worthy of the improved state of the city, is now building at the end of the Park, between the Broadway and Chatham-street, in a style of mag- nificence unequalled in many of the larger cities of Europe. The exterior consists wholly of fine marble, ornamented in a very neat and elegant style of architecture; and the whole is to be sur- mounted by a beautiful dome, which, when finished, will form a noble ornament to that part of the town, in which are also situated the Theatre, Mechanic Hall, and some of the best private houses in New York. The Park, though not remarkable for its size, is, how r ever, of service, by displaying the surrounding buildings to greater advantage ; and is also a relief to the confined appearance of the streets in general. It consists of about four acres planted with elms, planes, willows, and catalpas; and the surrounding foot walk is encompassed by rows of poplars: the whole is inclosed by a wooden paling. Neither the Park nor the Battery is very much resorted to by the fashionable citizens of New York, as they have become too common. The genteel lounge is in the Broadway, from eleven to three o'clock, during which time it is as much crowded as the Bond-street of London : and the THE THEATRE. 59 carriage?, though not so numerous, are driven to and fro with as much velocity. The foot paths are planted with poplars, and afford an agreeable shade from the sun in summer. About two years ago the inhabitants were alarmed by a large species of caterpillar, which bred in great numbers on the poplars, and were supposed to be venomous. Va- rious experiments were tried, and cats and dogs were made to swallow them : but it proved to be a false alarm, though the city for some time was thrown into as great a consternation as we have o frequently been with mad dogs. The Theatre is on the south-east side of the Park, and is a large commodious building. The outside is in an unfinished state; but the interior is handsomely decorated, and fitted up in as good style as the London theatres, upon a scale suitable to the population of the city. It contains a large coffee-room, and good sized lobbies, and is reckoned to hold about 1,20O persons. The scenes are well painted and numerous; and the machinery, dresses, and decorations, are elegant, and appropriate to the performances, which con- sist of all the new pieces that come out on the London boards, and several of Shakspeare's best plays, The only fault is, that they are too much curtailed, by which they often lose their effect ; and the performances are sometimes over by half past ten, though they do not begin at an earlier 60 THEATRICAL MANAGERS AND ACTORS. hour than in London. The drama had been a favourite in New York before the Revolution. During the time the city was in our possession, theatrical entertainments were very fashionable ; and the characters were mostly supported by officers of the army. After the termination of the war, the play-house fell into the hands of Messrs. Hallam and Henry, who for a number of years exerted themselves with much satisfaction to please the public. After the death of Mr. Henry, the surviving manager formed a partner- ship with a favourite and popular performer, under the firm of Hallam and Hodgkinson. Their ef- forts were soon after aided by the addition of Mr. W. Dunlap. After some time Hallam and Hodgkinson withdrew from the concern, and Mr. O ' Dunlap commenced sole manager. In this capa- city he continued till 1804. During his manage- ment of the theatrical concerns, he brought for- ward many pieces of his own composition, as well as several translations from the German. He is now publishing his dramatic works in ten vo- lumes. Mr. Cooper succeeded him in the direc- tion of the theatre, and in his hands it at present remains. The Theatre has been built about ten years, and of course embraces every modern im- provement. I have seen several of Mr. Cooper's performances in very arduous characters. In many, he acquit- VAUXHALL AND RANELAGH. 6 1 ted himself admirably, and he is justly entitled to the high estimation in which he is held through- out the United States. In some of his characters he almost equalled Kemble, whom he appears to imitate : but he could not come up to the arch- villainy of Richard the Third so admirably de- picted by Cooke, who, like his great predecessor Macklin, seems fashioned 'by nature for that and other characters of a similar cast. New York has its Vauxhall and Ranelagh; but they are poor imitations of those near London. They are, however, pleasant places of recreation for the inhabitants. The Vauxhall garden is si- tuated in the Bowery Road about two miles from the City Hall. It is a neat plantation, with gravel walks adorned with shrubs, trees, busts, and sta- tues. In the centre is a large equestrian statue of General Washington. Light musical pieces, interludes, &c. are performed in a small theatre situate in one corner of the gardens: the audience sit in what are called the pit and boxes, in the open air. The orchestra is built among the trees, and a large apparatus is constructed for the display of fire-works. The theatrical corps of New- York is chiefly engaged at Vauxhall during summer. The Ranelagh is a large hotel and garden, gene- rally known by the name of Mount Pitt, situated by the water side, and commanding some extensive and beautiful views of the city and its environs, 62 NEW YORK BEFORE THE EMBARGO. A great portion of the city, between the Broad- way arid the East river is very irregularly built; being the oldest part of the town, and of course less capable of those improvements which distin- guish the more recent buildings. Nevertheless, it is the chief seat of business, and contains several spacious streets crowded with shops, stores, and warehouses of every description. The water side is lined with shipping which lie along the wharfs, or in the small docks called slips, of which there are upwards of twelve towards the East river, be- sides numerous piers. The wharfs are large and commodious, and the warehouses, which are nearly all new buildings, are lofty and substantial. The merchants, ship-brokers, &c. have their offices in front on the ground floor of these warehouses. These ranges of buildings and wharfs extend from the Grand Battery, on both sides the town, up the Hudson and East rivers, and encompass the houses with shipping, whose forest of masts gives a stranger a lively idea of the immense trade which this city carries on with every part of the globe. New York appears to him the Tyre of the new world. When I arrived at New York in November, the port was filled with shipping, and the wharfs were crowded with commodities of every descrip- tion. Bales of cotton, wool, and merchandize; barrels of pot-ash, rice, flour, and salt provisions; NEW YORK BEFORE THE EMBARGO. 63 hogsheads of sugar, chests of tea, puncheons of rum, and pipes of wine; boxes, cases, packs and packages of all sizes and denominations, were strewed upon the wharfs and landing-places, or upon the decks of the shipping. All was noise and bustle. The carters were driving in every direction ; and the sailors and labourers upon the wharfs, and on board the vessels, were moving their ponderous burthens from place to place. The merchants and their clerks were busily en- gaged in their counting-houses, or upon the piers. The Tontine coffee-house was filled with under- writers, brokers, merchants, traders, and politi- cians; selling, purchasing, trafficking, or insuring; some reading, others eagerly inquiring the news. The steps and balcony of the coffee-house were crowded with people bidding, or listening to the several auctioneers, who had elevated themselves upon a hogshead of sugar, a puncheon of rum, or a bale of cotton ; and with Stentorian voices were exclaiming, " Once, twice'' " Once, twice." "An- other cent" " Thank ye, gentlemen "or were knock- ing down the goods, which took up one side of the street, to the best purchaser. The coffee-house slip, and the corners of Wall and Pearl-streets, were jammed up with carts, drays, and wheel- barrows ; horses and men were huddled promis- cuously together, leaving little or no room for passengers to pass. Such was the appearance of 64 MELANCHOLY EFFECTS OF THE EMBARGO. this part of the town when I arrived. Every thing was in motion ; all was life, bustle, and activity. The people were scampering in all directions to trade with each other, and to ship off their pur- chases for the European, Asian, African, and West Indian markets. Every thought, word, look, and action of the multitude seemed to be absorbed by commerce; the welkin rang with its busy hum, and all were eager in the pursuit of its riches. But on my return to New York the following April, what a contrast was presented to my view! and how shall I describe the melancholy dejection that was painted upon the countenances of the people, who seemed to have taken leave of all their former gaiety and cheerfulness? The coffee- house slip, the wharfs and quays along South- street, presented no longer the bustle and activity that had prevailed there five months before. The port, indeed, was full of shipping; but they were dismantled and laid up. Their decks were cleared, their hatches fastened down, and scarcely a sailor was to be found on board. Not a box, bale, cask, barrel, or package, was to be seen upon the wharfs. Many of the counting-houses were shut up, or advertised to be let ; and the few solitary mer- chants, clerks^ porters, and labourers, that were to be seen, were walking about w T ith their hands in their pockets. Instead of sixty or a hundred carts that used to stand in the street for hire, MELANCHOLY EFFECTS OF THE EMBARGO. 65 scarcely a dozen appeared, and they were unem- ployed ; a few coasting sloops, and schooners, which were clearing out for some of the ports in the United States, were all that remained of that immense business which was carried on a few- months before. The coffee-house was almost empty ; or, if there happened to be a few people in it, it was merely to pass away the time which hung heavy on their hands, or to inquire anxiously after news from Europe, and from Washington : or perhaps to purchase a few bills, that were selling at ten or twelve per cent, above par. In fact, every thing presented a melancholy appear- ance. The streets near the water-side were almost deserted, the grass had begun to grow upon the wharfs, and the minds of the people were tortured by the vague and idle rumours that were set afloat upon the arrival of every letter from England or from the seat of government. In short, the scene was so gloom v and forlorn, that had it been the V month of September instead of April, I should verily have thought that a malignant fever was raging in the place; so desolating were the effects of the embargo, which in the short space of five months had deprived the first commercial city in the States of all its life, bustle, and activity ; caused above one hundred and twenty bankrupt- cies; and completely annihilated its foreign com* merce ! VOL. n. F 66 PLACES OF WORSHIP. CHAPTER XXVIII. Places of Worship Public Buildings StatePrison Courts of Law Board of Health Quaran- tine Station Chamber of Commerce- Inspectors of Lumber , &c. Commerce of New York /??- crease of Commerce Abundance of Provisions Articles brought to Market Price of Com- modities at New York Charitable Institutions The Ladies' Society for the Relief of poor IVidows with small Children News-papers Literary Fair. NEW YORK contains thirty-three places of wor- ship, viz. nine episcopal churches, three Dutch churches, one French church, one Calvinist, one German Lutheran, one English Lutheran, three Baptist meetings, three Methodist meetings, one Moravian, six Presbyterian, one Independent, two Quakers', and one Jews' synagogue. Besides the public buildings which I have men- tioned, there are numerous banks, insurance com* panics, commercial and charitable institutions, literary establishments, &c. The new State prison is an establishment worthy of imitation in England. By the law of New York, treason, murder, and STATE PRI&ON. 6j the procuring, aiding, and abetting any kind of murder, are the only crimes punishable by death. The mode of execution is the same as in England. All other offences are punished by imprisonment for a certain period in the State prison. This building is situated at Greenwich, about two miles from the City Hall, on the shore of the Hudson river. The space inclosed by the wall is about four acres, and the prison is governed by seven inspectors appointed by the State Council. They meet once a month, or oftener, together with the justices of the supreme court, the mayor and re- corder of the city, the attorney-general, and district attorney. The inspectors make rules for the go- vernment of the convicts, and other persons be- longing to the prison ; and appoint two of their own body to be visiting inspectors monthly. The board of inspectors have charge of the prison, and appoint a keeper, or deputy, and as many assistants as they find to be necessary. The salaries of the keepers are paid out of the treasury of the State. The inspectors, or rather the agents of the prison, are empowered to purchase clothing, bedding, provisions, tools, implements, and raw or other materials for the employment of the convicts, and keep accounts of the same: also to open an ac- count with each convict, charging him with his expenses, and crediting him with his labour: and F 2 68 * STA'fE PRISON. if there should be any balance due to the convict at the time of his discharge, to give him a part or the whole of it ; but if the whole should not be given to him, to convey the residue to the credit of the State. If a convict on entering the prison Is unacquainted with any trade, he has the choice of learning one most agreeable to him. I have been told of a man who became a shoe-maker in that prison, and at the end of his time came out with several hundred dollars in pocket. Hence the country is benefited ; and individuals, instead of being made worse in prison, are rendered useful members of society. The expense of conveying and keeping the con- victs is always paid by the State. They are dressed in uniforms of coarse cloth, according to their classes and conduct, and kept at some kind of work. For profane cursing, swearing, indecent behaviour, idleness, negligence, disobedience of regulations, or perverse conduct, the principal keeper may punish the convicts by confinement in the solitary cells, and by a diet of bread and water, during such term as any two of the inspec- tors advise. For the greater security, there is a detachment of firemen allotted to the prison, also an armed guard consisting of a captain, a serjeant, two corporals, a drummer, a fifer, and twenty privates. COURTS OF LAW. <>y The laws are administered by the following courts of justice. I. The Court for the Trial of Impeachments, and the Correction of Errors. Since the removal of the seat of government to Albany, this court is now held in that place. It is the court of dernier rcssorl, and consists of the president of the senate, for the time being, and the senators, chan- cellor, and judges of the supreme court, or the major part of them. II. The Court of Chancery. This court, con- sisting of the chancellor, is held twice a year at least in New York, and twice in the city of Al- bany, and at such other times as the chancellor may think proper. Appeals lie from the decisions of the chancellor to the court for the correction of errors. III. The Supreme Court. This court consists of a chief justice, and four puisne judges, and there are four stated and regular terms. The court ap- points circuit courts to be held in the vacation in the several counties, before one of the judges, for the trial of all causes before a jury. Questions of law which arise on the facts, are argued before the whole court. Writs of error may be brought on the judgements of the supreme court, to the court for the correction of errors. IV. The Court of Exchequer. The junior jus- tice in the supreme court, or in his absence any 70 COURTS OF LAW. other of the puisne judges, is ex qfficio judge of the court of exchequer. This court is held during the terms of the supreme court, and at the same places. It hears and determines all causes and matters relating to forfeitures for recognizances or otherwise, fines, issues, amercements, and debtg due to the people of the State. V. The Courts of Oyer and Terminer, and Ge- neral Gaol Delivery. These courts are held pur- suant to an act of the legislature, without a special commission, by one or more of the justices of the supreme court; together with the mayor, recorder, and aldermen of the city, or any three of them, of whom a justice of the supreme court must always be one. They have the power to hear and determine all treasons, felonies, and other crimes and misdemeanours, and to deliver the gaols of all prisoners confined therein. VI. The Court of Common Pleas, commonly called the Mayor's Court. This is held before the mayor, aldermen, and recorder, or before the mayor and recorder only. This court hears and deter- mines all actions, real, personal, or mixed, arising within the city of New York, or within the juris- diction of the court. Where the sum demanded is above 250 dollars, the cause may be removed, at any time before the trial, into the supreme court. A writ of error lies from all judgements of this court to the supreme court. COURTS OF LAW. Jl Vll.The Court of General Sessions of the Peace. This court is also held by the mayor, recorder, and aldermen, of whom the mayor or recorder must always be one. Courts of special sessions of the peace may also be held at any time the common council may direct, and may continue as long as the court may think proper for the dispatch of business. These courts have the power to hear and determine all felonies and offences committed in the city of New York. There is also a court of special sessions for the trial of petty offences ; which consists of the mayor, recorder, and aldermen. VIII. The Court of Probates. Since the re- moval of the seat of government to Albany, the judge of this court is required to reside in that city. He has all the powers of jurisdiction rela- tive to testamentary matters, which were formerly exercised by the governor of the colony, as judge of the prerogative court, except as to the appoint- ment of surrogates. IX. Court of Surrogates. Surrogates are ap- pointed for each county, by the council of ap- pointment, one of which resides and holds his court in the city of New York. They have the sole and exclusive power to take proof of the last wills and testaments of persons deceased, who at the time of their death were inhabitants of the city, in whatever place the death may have hap- 72 COURTS OF LAW. pened ; and to issue probates, and grant letters of administration of the goods, chattels, and credits of persons dying intestate, or with the wills an- nexed. Appeals from the orders and decrees of the surrogate lie to the court of probates. X. District Court of the United States. This court, consisting of a single judge, has four regular sessions in a year, and special sessions are held as often as the judge thinks necessary. It has ex- clusive original jurisdiction of civil causes, of ad- miralty and maritime jurisdiction, including all seizures under the laws of impost, navigation, or trade of the United States, on the high seas, and in the navigable waters, as well as seizures on land within other waters, and all penalties and forfeitures arising under the laws of the United States. It has also jurisdiction, exclusive of the State courts, of all crimes and offences, cognizable under the authority of the United States, com- mitted within the district, or upon the high seas, where no other punishment than whipping, not exceeding thirty stripes, a fine not exceeding 10O dollars, or a term of imprisonment not exceeding six months, is to be inflicted. It also has concur- rent jurisdiction with the courts of the State, where an alien sues for a tort (trespass) only, in violation of the laws of nations, or treaties of the United States; and where the United States sue, and the matter in dispute does not exceed 100 dollars. It BOARD OF HEALTH. 7^ has a jurisdiction over the State courts, of all suits against consuls and vice-consuls. XL The Circuit Court of the United States, for the district of New York, in the second circuit, is held in the city on the 1st of April and the 1st of September in each year. It consists of one of the judges of the supreme court of the United States, and the judge of the district court. It has original cognizance of all civil suits, where the matter in dispute exceeds 500 dollars, and the United States are plaintiffs, or an alien is the party ; or the suit is between citizens of different states. It has exclusive cognizance of all crimes and offences cognizable under the authority of the United States, except where it is otherwise pro^ vided by law; and a concurrent jurisdiction with the district court of the crimes cognizable therein. Of late years a board of health has been esta- blished at New York, under an act of the legis- lature, and a variety of regulations are enjoined, for the purpose of preventing the introduction of malignant fevers. A station is also assigned on Staten Island, where vessels perform quarantine : the buildings which constitute the hospital are separated from each other, and are capable of ac- commodating upwards of 30O sick. The situation is extremely pleasant, and well adapted to the purpose. There are five banks, and nine insurance com- 74 INCREASE OF COMMERCE. panics : one of the latter is a branch of the Phoe- nix company of London. There is a chamber of commerce in New York, which has for its object the promotion and regulation of mercantile con- cerns ; and is also a charitable institution for the support of the widows and children of its mem- bers. Inspectors are appointed by the State Council to examine lumber, staves, and heading, pot- and pearl-ashes, sole leather, flour and meal, beef and pork, previous to exportation. Persons shipping the above articles without having them inspected are liable to heavy penalties. The commerce of New York, before the em- bargo, was in a high state of prosperity and pro- gressive improvement. The merchants traded with almost everv part of the world ; and though at times they suffered some privations and checks from the belligerent powers of Europe, yet their trade increased, and riches continued to pour in upon them. They grumbled, but nevertheless pursued their prosperous career, and seldom failed in realizing handsome fortunes. What a mortify- ing stroke, then, was the embargo! a measure which obliged them to commit a sort of commercial suicide in order to revenge themselves of a few lawless acts, which might have been easily avoided if the merchants had speculated with more pru- dence. The amount of tonnage belonging to the MARKETS. port of New York in 1806 was 183,671 tons. And the number of vessels in the harbour on the 25th of December 1807, when the embargo took place, was 537. The moneys collected in New York for the national treasury, on the imports and tonnage, have for several years amounted to one- fourth of the public revenue. In 18O6 the sum collected was 6,5OO,000 dollars, which after de- ducting the drawbacks left a nett revenue of 4,500,000 dollars ; which was paid into the trea- sury of the United States as the proceeds of one year. In the year 1808, the whole of this im- mense sum had vanished ! In order to show how little the Americans have suffered upon the ag- gregate from Berlin decrees and orders of council; from French menaces, and British actions ; it is only necessary to state, that in 1803 the duties collected at New York scarcely amounted to 4,000,000 of dollars ; and that at the period of laying on the embargo, at the close of the year 1807, they amounted to nearly 7,000,OOO dollars. After this, it is hardly fair to complain of the vio- lation of neutral rights ! Every day, except Sunday, is a market-day in New York. Meat is cut p and sold by the joint or in pieces, by the licensed butchers only, their agents, or servants. Each of these must sell at his own stall, and conclude his sales by one o'clock in the afternoon, between the 1st of May and the ?6 PRICE OF COMMODITIES AT NEW YORK. 1st of November, and two between the 1st of No- vember and the 1 st of May. Butchers are licensed bv the mayor, who is clerk of the market. He re- ceives for every quarter of beef sold in the market six cents; for every hog, shoat,or pig above 14 Ibs. weight,six cents; and for each calf, sheep, or lamb, four cents ; to be paid by the butchers and other persons selling the same. To prevent engrossing, and to favour housekeepers, it is declared un- lawful for persons to purchase articles to sell again in any market or other part of the city before noon of each day, except flour and meal, which must not be bought to be sold again until fourin the after- noon : hucksters in the market are restricted to the sale of vegetables, with the exception of fruits. The sale of unwholesome and stale articles of pro- vision ; of blown and stuffed meat, and of measly pork, is expressly forbidden. Butter must be sold by the pound, and not by the roll or tub. Persons who are not licensed butchers, selling butchers* meat on commission, pay triple fees to the clerk of the market. The price of several commodities before the em- bargo was as follows, in sterling money : beef 6%d. perlb. ; mutton od. ; veal ?d. ; butter lOd. ; bread, the loaf of 2 Jibs. 7^.; cheese 7^.; turkeys ^s. each; chickens 20d. per couple ; oysters fd. per dozen ; flour 27,9. per barrel of 198 Ibs. ; brandy 4s. 6d. per gallon ; coffee I s. 6d. per lb. ; green tea 5s. ; CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 77 best hyson 10s. ; coals 70,9. per chaldron ; wood 20.$. per cord ; a coat 7/. 10s. ; waistcoat and pan- taloons 4.1. 10s.; hat 54s.; pair of boots 54s.; washing 3s. 6d. per dozen pieces. Price of lodg- ing at genteel boarding-houses, from one guinea and a half to three guineas per week. After the embargo took place the price of provisions fell to nearly half the above sums, and European com- modities rose in proportion. The manufactures of America are yet in an infant state; but in New York there are several excellent cabinet-makers, coach-makers, &c. who not only supply the coun- try with household furniture and carriages, but also export very largely to the West-Indies, and to foreign possessions on the continent of America. Their workmanship would be considered elegant and modern in London ; and they have the ad- vantage of procuring mahogany and other wood much cheaper than we. Gaxrie laws are not wholly unknown in America. There is an act in force for the preservation of - heath hens and other game, which was passed in the year 1791. There are thirty-one benevolent institutions in New York. The nanres of them are as follow : Tammany Society, Free School, Provident So- ciety, Mutual Benefit Society, Benevolent So- ciety, Albion Benevolent Society, Ladies' Society 78 NEWS-PAPERS. for the relief of poor widows with small children, Fire Department, New York Manufacturing So- ciety, Society of Merchants and Tradesmen, the Dispensary, Lying-in Hospital, Sailor's Snug Har- bour, Marine Society, Manumission Society, Kine- pock Institution, City Hospital, Alms House, House Carpenter's Society, Bellvue Hospital, Marine Hospital at Staten Island, Humane So- ciety, Masonic Society containing thirteen lodges, German Society, Society of Unitas Fratrum, First Protestant Episcopal Charity School, St. George's Society, St. Patrick's Society, St. Andrew's So- ciety, the New England Society, the Cincinnati. Most of these institutions are mere benefit socie- ties, resembling those which are so numerous in England. The Ladies 9 Society for the relief of poor widows with small children merits, however, particular notice, since it is an institution most honourable to the character of the amiable women of that city, and is worthy of imitation in Great Britain. There are upwards of twenty news-papers pub- lished in New York, nearly half of which are daily papers ; besides several weekly and monthly magazines or essays. The high price of paper, la- bour, and taxes in Great Britain has been very favourable to authorship and the publication of books in America. Foreign publications are also LITERARY FAIR. 79 charged with a duty of 13 per cent. ; and foreign rags are exempted from all impost. These ad- vantages have facilitated the manufacture of paper and the printing of books in the United States, both which are now carried on to a very large extent. The new works that appear in America, or rather original productions, are very few; but every English work of celebrity is immediately reprinted in the States, and vended for a fourth of the original price. The booksellers and printers of New York are numerous, and in general men of property. Some of them have published very splendid editions of the Bible ; and it was not a little gratifying to the American patriot to be told, that the paper, printing, engraving, and binding, were all of American manufacture. For several years past a literary fair has been held alternately at New York and Philadelphia. This annual meeting of booksellers has tended greatly to faci- litate intercourse with each other, to circulate books throughout the United States, and to en- courage and support the arts of printing and paper- making. A public library is established at New York, which consists of about ten thousand volumes, many of them rare and valuable books. The build- ing which contains them is situated in Nassau- street, ard the trustees are incorporated by an act 80 PUBLIC LIBRARY. MUSEUM. of the legislature. There are also three or four public reading-rooms, and circulating libraries, which are supported by some of the principal booksellers, from the annual subscriptions of the inhabitants. There is a museum of natural curio- sities in New York, but it contains nothing worthy of particular notice. NUMBER OF DEATHS. 81 * CHAPTER XXIX. Number of Deaths at Neiv York Mode of living in America The Yellow Fever Population of Neiv York Deaths Church-yards Funerals Society of Neiv York Elegant Women French and English Dresses Fine Figures Delicate Complexions Bad Teeth, a ground- less Charge Education Thirst after Know- ledge Arts and Sciences Literature Taste for Reading Salmagundi The Echo Bar- loiv's Columbiad Smoking Style of living at New York Splendid Marriages Great For- tunes Anecdote of a Sailor Quakers'" Meeting Quakers Anecdote of a Jew Singing Schools Christmas Day Political Parties Duels. IT does not appear that the malignant or yellow fever made very great ravages among the inhabi- tants in 1805, the last time of its appearance la New York ; for the deaths very little exceeded the preceding and subsequent years. In 1804 the deaths were 2,064 1805 ..... 2,352 1806 2,252 Of the above number fifty -one were suicides; VOL. II. G 62 MODE OF LIVING IN AMERICA. and according to the statement of Dr. Mitchill, upwards of one-third of the deaths are occasioned by consumption and debility. . To the influence of moisture and the sudden changes of the wea- ther has been attributed the prevalence of nervous disorders and debility among a great number of the inhabitants of the United States. Much may, no doubt, be ascribed to those causes ; but I think the mode of living has a more immediate effect upon the human frame than even the cli- mate of a country. The higher and middling classes of the Americans, who reside chiefly in the great towns or their neighbourhood, live, gene- rally speaking, in a more luxurious manner than the same description of people in England. Not that their tables are more sumptuously furnished on particular occasions than ours ; but that their ordinary meals consist of a greater variety of ar- ticles, many of which from too frequent use may, perhaps, become pernicious to the constitution. The constant use of segars by the young men, even from an early age, may also tend to impair the constitution, and create a stimulus beyond that which nature requires, or is capable of sup- porting. Their dread of the yellow fever has itiduced a more frequent use of tobacco of late years ; but it is now grown into a habit that will not be easily abandoned. The other classes of the community, who reside in the interior and YELLOW FEVER. 83 back parts of the country, are often obliged to live upon salt provisions the greatest part of the year, and sometimes on very scanty fare ; besides which, they generally dwell in miserable log huts, inca- pable of defending them effectually from the se- verity of the weather. Those who have the means of living better are great eaters of animal food, which is introduced at every meal ; together with a variety of hot cakes, and a profusion of butter : all which may more or less tend to the introduc- tion of bilious disorders, and perhaps lay the foun- dation of those diseases which prove fatal in hot climates. The effects of a luxurious or meagre diet are equally injurious to the constitution, and, together with the sudden and violent changes of the climate, may create a series of nervous com- plaints, consumption, and debility, which in the states bordering on the Atlantic carry off at least one third of the inhabitants in the prime of life. The malignant or yellow fever generally com- mences in the confined parts of the town, near the water-side, in the month of August or Sep- tember. It is commonly supposed to have been introduced by the French refugees from St. Do- mingo during the French revolution ; though some are of opinion that it originated in the States ; and many physicians were puzzling their brains about its origin at a time when they ought to have been devising means to stop its ravages. As soon as G 2 84 YELLOW FEVER. this dreadful scourge makes its appearance in New York, the inhabitants shut up their shops, and fly from their houses into the country. Those who cannot go far, on account of business, remove to Greenwich, a small village situate on the border of the Hudson river, about two- or three miles from town. Here the merchants and others have their offices, and carry on their concerns with little danger from the fever, which does not seem to be contagious beyond a certain distance. The banks and other public offices also remove their business to this place; and markets are regularly established for the supply of the inhabitants. Very few are left in- the confined parts of the town except the poorer classes, and the negroes. The latter not being affected by the fever, are of great service at that dreadful crisis ; and are the only persons who can be found to discharge the hazardous duties of attending the sick and burying the dead. Up- wards of 26* 3 OOO people removed from the interior parts of the city, and from the streets near the water side, in 1805. Since then the town has happily- been free from that dreadful scourge ; and from the salutary regulations which have since been adopted, it is to be hoped that it will never make its appearance again. The finest cities in America were no doubt preserved from depopulation du-> ring the prevalence of the fever by the timely re- treat of the inhabitants into the country. It is POPULATION OF NEW YORK. 8 to be wished that the same practice was permitted in Spain and other parts of the continent, which are sometimes visited by pestilential fevers, instead of surrounding the towns by a cordon of troops, and cutting off all communication between the unfortunate inhabitants and the country. The following census of the population of New York was taken in 1807, and laid before the mayor, aldermen, and commonalty of the city in 1808* POPULATION OF NEW YORK. CO tf o fa CT! & (/) ^ W P P: u H O H *J D c* TAL C/3 O w w K H O C/3 W w o "o ? H S O a; -? C3 s- j DJ >- ? D W O ^ r . "ti ?5 ^"v. . 3 CO * CO -!f ?fa $a f iO Ci O O CO CO 'O 00 'O l>^ 'M ts. GO "* O O Ci r O CD CO -i t C CO 1 1 1 1 1 1 POPULATION OF NEW YORK. 8-7 Of the preceding number of inhabitants 42,881 are females, and 40,649 are males ; making a total of S3,53O. In 1805 the population of New York was 75,770 : thus in the course of one year and ten months there has been an increase of inhabi- tants to the amount of 77^ : anf l within the same period the number of slaves has decreased 272. The following table exhibits the population of this city at different periods from its earliest settlement. In the year 1697 there were 4,302 inhabitants. 1756 . . . 15,000 1771 . . . 21,863 1786 . . . 23,614 1791 33,131 1801 . . . 60,489 1805 . . . 75,770 1807 83,530 Hence it appears that the population of New York has, in a period of twenty years from 1786 to 1805, more than tripled itself; and should the population continue to increase at the rate of five per cent, per annum, it will in 1855 amount to 705,650, a population greater than that of Paris. At this day it is equal to the whole num- ber of inhabitants in the State of New York fifty years ago. If any estimate can be formed of the salubrity of the climate, and the healthiness of the inhabi- 88 CHURCH-YARDS. tants of a town, by the number of deaths, London must be reckoned to have the advantage of New York in these respects. The amount of deaths in the former city is about a fiftieth part of its popula- tion, while in New York it is at least one thirtieth; the number of deaths ranging between 2,5OO and 3,000 per annum. I am, however, more inclined to attribute this great mortality to improper diet and mode of living than to the insalubrity of the climate. The church-yards and vaults are also situate in the heart of the town, and crowded with the dead. If they are not prejudicial to the health of the people, they are at least very unsightly ex- hibitions. One would think there was a scarcity of land in America, by seeing such large pieces of ground in one of the finest streets of New York occupied by the dead. But even if no noxious effluvia were to arise, (and 1 rather suspect there must in the months of July, August, and Septem- ber,) still thecontinual view of such a crowd of white and brown tomb-stones and monuments which is exhibited in the Broadway, must at the sickly season of the year tend very much to depress the spirits, when they should rather be cheered and en- livened, for at that period much is effected by the force of imagination. There is a large bury ing- ground a short distance out of town ; but the ce- meteries in the city are still used at certain periods of the year. FUNERALS. 89 They bury their dead within twenty- four hours; a custom probably induced by the heat of the cli- mate during the summer months : but I see no reason why it should be extended to the winter months, which are cold enough to allow of the dead being kept for three or four days, if nothing else prevents it. While I was at New York, a young gentleman, a native of Great Britain, who had settled in that city, died suddenly one evening at the house of an American gentleman to whose daughter he was paying his addresses. It was a most distressing scene for the young lady, for he dropped down at the very moment he was kneeling before her in a playful mood. The young man was taken home to the house where he lodged, aod before four o'clock the next afternoon he was interred. My motive for mentioning this circum- stance is, because I understood that when they went to screw the coffin down he bled at the nose; and that the pillow on which his head reclined was warm : notwithstanding which lie was buried, without any means being tried to restore him ! I cannot but think this was a very culpable omis- sion on the part of his friends, considering the sudden manner in which he had apparently been deprived of life. Funerals at New York, as well as in almost every other part of the United States, are attended by a numerous assemblage of the friends and ac- 90 SOCIETY OF NEW YORK. quaintances of the deceased, who are invited by advertisements in the newspapers to attend their departed friend to the grave. On such occasions I have seen upwards of five hundred people, and the larger the number the more the deceased is supposed to be respected and valued. I cannot help thinking, however, that these numerous meetings savour somewhat of ostentation, though certainly there is no parade of hearses, nodding plumes, and mourning coaches. The people at- tend for the most part in their ordinary dress, ex- cept those who are nearly related, or particularly intimate with the deceased. The clergyman, physician, and chief mourners, wear white scarfs, which it is also the custom to wear on the fol- lowing Sunday. The deceased is interred with or without prayers, according to the faith he pro- fessed. The Society of Nev? York consisists of three distinct classes. The first is composed of the constituted authorities and government officers ; divines, lawyers, and physicians of eminence ; the principal merchants and people of independent property. The second comprises the small mer- chants, retail dealers, clerks, subordinate officers of the government, and members of the three professions. The third consists of the inferior orders of the people. The first of these associate together in a style of elegance and splendour FINE FIGURES. 9 1 Httle inferior to Europeans. Their houses are furnished with every thing that is useful, agree- able, or ornamental ; and many of them are fitted up in the tasteful magnificence of modern style. The dress of the gentlemen is plain, elegant, and fashionable, and corresponds in every respect with the English costume. The ladies in general seem more partial to the light, various, and dash- ing drapery of the Parisian belles, than to the ele- gant and becoming attire of our London beauties, who improve upon the French fashions. But there are many who prefer the English costume, or at least a medium between that and the French. In walking the Broadway, some mornings, I have been frequently tempted to believe, while ad-miring the beautiful forms that passed in review before me, that there existed a sort of rivalry among the New York beauties, as there did about a cen- tury ago among the ladies of England ; and that instead of a patch on the right or left cheek, to denote a Whig or Tory, methought I could dis- cern a pretty Democrat a la mode Fran9oise, and a sweet little Federalist a la mode Angloise. I know not whether my surmises were just; but it is cer- tain that Mrs. Toole and Madame Bouchard, the two rival leaders of fashion in caps, bonnets, fea- thers, flowers, muslin, and lace, have each their partisans and admirers : one because she is an En* glishwoman* and the other because she is French ; BAD TEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. and if the ladies are not really divided in opinion as to politics, they are most unequivocally at issue with respect to dress. The young ladies of New York are in general handsome, and almost universally fine genteel figures. Though I am not inclined, like their sljr castigator Anthony Evergreen, to attribute their fine forms to pickles and the vine gar -cruet ; yet they certainly are too fond of tight lacing, and compressing their waists between steel, slay tape, and whalebone. Fair complexions, regular features, and fine forms, seem to be the prevailing charac- teristics of the American fair sex. They do not, however, enjoy their beauty for so long a period as English women, neither do they possess the bloom- ing countenance and rosy tinge of health so pre- dominant among our fair countrywomen, whose charms never stand in need of cosmetics. The beauty of the American women partakes more of the lily than the rose ; though the soft glow of the latter is sometimes to be met with. Their climate, however, is not so favourable to beauty as that of England, in consequence of the excessive heat and violent changes of the weather peculiar to America. I must not omit to mention, in justice to the American fair, that I saw but very few who had recourse to rouge for the purpose of heightening their charms. Most travellers who have visited America have BAD TEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. 93 charged the ladies of the United States universally O V with having bad teeth. This accusation is certainly very erroneous when applied to the whole of the fair sex, and to them alone. That the inhabitants of the States are often subject to a premature loss of teeth is allowed by themselves ; and the cause has even been discussed in the papers read before the American Philosophical Society; but it does not particularly attach to the females, who, as far as I have been able to judge, are much more ex- empt from that misfortune than the men. Indeed most of the young ladies I met with during my tour through the country had in general excellent teeth: some in particular were extremely even and regular, and as white as ivory. One instance of this, I met with in Miss M , a handsome young quakeress, the daughter of the lady at whose house I boarded. If Mr. Moore had had the good fortune to have seen her ivory teeth, her ruby lips, and blooming countenance, he would not have so coolly said " Some cavillers Object to sleep with fellow travellers ; But Saints protect the pretty quaker, Heaven forbid that I should wake her!' 9 It must be evident that the accusation has orir gloated in misrepresentation, or calumny; and because some have been found who had indiffe- rent teeth, the whole of the American fair sex 94 BAD TEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. have been branded with a charge that at the ut- most can only apply individually. From constant repetition by travellers, who have not taken the trouble to judge for themselves, or to investigate the truth of former accounts, bad teeth have now- become, in the opinion of Europeans, a national characteristic of the American ladies ; when the fact is, that it is as far removed from the truth as those estimates which we form of the character of a whole nation from the conduct of a few indivi- duals belonging to it. The Englishman is all gloominess and brutality the Frenchman all amiability and politeness the German all clown- ishness and drunkenness the Spaniard all gravity and haughtiness. Yet few persons will allow that these are correct characters of those people : on the contrary, whatever they might have been ages past, they are now considered only all vulgar errors. I have been anxious to rescue the American fair from so foul an aspersion, because, as far as I had an opportunity of judging during my stay in the country, I do not think they ever merited it ; and I am fully persuaded, that if they do not injure the personal charms which nature has so lavishly bestowed upon them, by the ridiculous vagaries of fashion, improper living, or careless exposure to the vicissitudes of the climate, their appearance will completely refute the illiberal and unhand- some assertions of foreigners. EDUCATION. 95 Much has also been said of the deficiency of the polite and liberal accomplishments among both sexes in the United States. Whatever truth there may have formerly been in this statement, I do not think there is any foundation for it at present, at least in New York, where there appears to be a great thirst after knowledge. The riches that have flowed into that city, for the last twenty years, have brought with them a taste for the re- finements of polished society ; and though the inhabitants cannot yet boast of having reached the standard of European perfection, they are not wanting in the solid and rational parts of educa- tion ; nor in many of those accomplishments which ornament and embellish private life. It has become the fashion in New York to attend lectures oil moral philosophy, chemistry, mine- ralogy, botany, mechanics, &c.; and the ladies in particular have made considerable progress in those studies. Many young men, who were so enveloped in business as to neglect or disdain the pursuit of such liberal and polite acquirements, have been often laughed from the counting-house to the lecture-room by their more accomplished female companions. The desire for instruction and information, indeed, is not confined to the youthful part of the community; many married ladies and their families may be seen at philoso- phical and chemical lectures, and the spirit of in. 9(* ARTS AND SCIENCES. quiry is becoming more general among the gen- tlemen. The majority of the merchants, however, still continue more partial to the rule of three, than a dissertation upon oxygen or metaphysics. Most of them have acquired large fortunes by their regular and plodding habits of business, and are loth to part with any portion of it, at their time of life, in the purchase of knowledge, or the en- coura^ement of the arts and sciences. Some, it O ' must be allowed, are exceptions; and others, if they will not partake of instruction themselves, are not sparing of their money, in imparting it to their children. The immense property which has been introduced into the country by commerce, has hardly had time to circulate and diffuse itself through the community. It is at present too much in the hands of a few individuals, to enable men to devote the whole of their lives to the study of the arts and sciences. Farmers, merchants, physicians, lawyers, and divines, are all that Ame- rica can produce for many years to come; and if authors, artists, or philosophers make their ap- pearance at any time, they must, as they have hitherto done, spring from one of the above pro- fessions. Colleges and schools are multiplying very ra- pidly all over the United States ; but education is in many places still defective, in consequence of the want of proper encouragement, and better LITERATURE. SALMAGUNDI. 97 teachers. A grammar-school has recently been instituted at New York, for the instruction of youth, upon a similar plan to the great public schools in England. A taste for reading has of late diffused itself throughout the country, particularly in the great towns ; and several young ladies have displayed their abilities in writing. Some of their novels and fugitive pieces of poetry and prose are written with taste arid judgement. Two or" three at New York have particularly distinguished themselves. It seems, indeed, that the fair sex of America have, within these few years, been desirous of imitating the example of the English and French ladies, who have contributed so much to extend the plea- sures of rational conversation and intellectual en- joyment. They have cast away the frivolous and gossiping tittle tattle, which before occupied so much of their attention, and assumed the more dignified and instructive discourse upon arts, sciences, literature, and moral philosophy. Many of the young men, too, whose minds have not been wholly absorbed by pounds, shillings, and pence, have shown that they possess literary qualifications and talents, that would, if their time and fortune permitted, rank them among some of the distinguished authors of Europe. Th most prominent of their late productions is the Sat ma- VOL. II. H * A number of the clergy, of different denomi- nations of this city, at a meeting held on Wednes- day the l6th irist. having taken into consideration the merciful dispensations of Divine Providence towards this city, during the last season, and also the present aspect of public affairs : ' Resolved, That it is proper to take public and solemn notice of the Divine goodness, and as a people, to implore the continued protection, and those temporal and spiritual blessings, which are so essential to our welfare. ' Resolved, That it be recommended to the se- veral congregations under our pastoral care, to set apart Friday the 25th instant, as a day of solemn thanksgiving and prayer ; and that, abstaining from all kinds of servile labour and recreations on that day, they come together to acknowledge the mercy of God, in again exempting us from the scourge of pestilence, to praise him for the multiplied favours of his gracious providence, to beseech him to preserve us in peace, and to con- tinue and extend our national prosperity ; and 11O CHRISTMAS DAY. above all, to pray for the sanctifying influences of the Holy Spirit on our churches, and that we may be favoured with all spiritual and heavenly blessings in Christ Jesus. * Signed by order of the Meeting, < JOHN RODGERS, Chairman/ " Resolved, That the Board unite in the recom- mendation of the reverend clergy of this city, upon the above occasion, and accordingly recommend, that Friday the 25th day of December be observed and set apart as a day of public and special thanks- giving and prayer to Almighty God, for his bene- volent dispensations of mercy to this city : and we accordingly recommend to our fellow citizens, that they carefully abstain from all recreations and secular employments on that day. " By the Common Council, " JOHN PINTARD, Clerk." New York, Dec. 22, ISO?. The shops were accordingly shut, the people attended public worship, and the day was reli- giously and strictly observed. I did not, however, understand that roast beef and plum-pudding, turkey and chine, mince pies, &c. smoked on the American tables as they do in England on that festival ; though, perhaps, those Americans who yet retain a spice of the English character about NEW YEAR'S DAY- 111 them may continue the good old practice of their ancestors. New Year's Day is the most important of the whole year. All the complimentary visits, fun, and merriment of the season seem to be reserved for this day, though much is now worn away by the innovations of fashion. Many of the shops are shut up ; and the presbyterians, and a few other religious dissenters, attend public worship. The mayor of the city, and others of the constituted authorities, advertise, two or three days before, that they will reciprocate the compliments of the season with the inhabitants at their house on New Year's Day. In consequence of this invita- tion, I accompanied a gentleman to the mayor's house in Water-street : we found the old gentle- man surrounded by his friends and acquaintance. The room was crowded, and the gentlemen were coming in, going out, and taking refreshments at a large table spread out with cakes, wine, and punch. Having paid our respects to his worship, wished him the compliments of the season, a happy new year, and drank a glass of excellent punch, we took our leave. The bakers, on this day, distribute to their cus- tomers small cakes made in a variety of shapes and figures ; and the newspaper editors greet their readers with a poetical retrospect of the events of the old year : it accords with their political prin- 1 1 2 POLITICAL PARTIES. ciples, and is generally a severe party philippic. New York, like the other large cities of the union, is a prey to the violent spirit of the two parties, who are known under the titles of federalists and democrats. The newspapers are almost equally divided between the two, to whose views they are of course subservient, and have the effect of keep- ing up a continual warfare, in which they belabour each other, their rulers, and the English and French nations, without mercy. " Every day/' as Mustapha Rubadub observes in Salmagundi, t have these slang-whangers made furious attacks on each other, and upon their respective adherents, discharging their heavy artillery, consisting of large sheets, loaded with scoundrel ! villain! liar! rascal ! numskull ! nincompoop ! dunder-head ! wise-acre ! block-head ! jackass ! and I do swear by my beard, though I know thou wilt scarcely credit me, that in some of these skirmishes the grand bashaw himself has been woefully pelted ! yea, most ignominiously pelted ! and yet have these talking desperadoes escaped without the bas- tinado!" The drinking of toasts at public dinners is a very common method of venting party spleen in, America, and of drinking destruction to their ene- mies. The newspapers publish long lists of these toasts the next day, as so many proofs of patriotism and virtue; and take a pride in showing how briU DUELS. 113 liantly their partisans can blackguard public cha- racters in their cups. It was the violent spirit of party that occasioned the duel between General Hamilton and Colonel Burr. Hamilton fell re- gretted by all parties, and was particularly de- plored by the citizens of New York, among whom he resided. Burr escaped, only to become odious in the sight of the whole nation. Duels are very frequent and fatal throughout the States, and all attempts to prevent them have hitherto failed. At New York a a law was passed to prohibit the sending of challenges, and the fighting of duels, under severe penalties ; but it answered no other end than to produce a smart piece of satire on the subject of duels. VOL, II, 114 LEAVE NEW YORK. CHAPTER XXX. Leave New York for Charleston Take passage in the Calliope Fellow Passengers The Irish Knife- grinder Gun-boats Quarantine Ground Sandy Hook Gulf Stream Arrival at Charleston Streets Houses Public Build- ings East Bay St. Michael's The Branch Bank Charleston Library The Museum Poisonous Tree Pernicious Effects of the Pride of India Turkey Buzzards Dead Horses The Golgotha Negligence of the Municipality Public Buildings The Orphan House The Theatre Vauxhall Anecdote of Mrs. S . Unfortunate Courtship The Market-place Productions Price of Provisions, &c. I HAD now remained at New York upwards of six weeks, during which the weather had been re- markably agreeable. Sometimes it was as mild and open as spring ; and at other times diversified with a gentle frost, which suited better with the season. But at length winter began to show itself in its true colours ; the snow fell in considerable quantities, and was succeeded by a keen and piercing frost, which crowded the Hudson and FELLOW PASSENGERS. 115 East Rivers with floating ice. This was the period J chose for my emigration to the southward. Like the bird of passage, I had quitted the bleak air of Canada at the approach of winter for the warmer one of New York, where autumn still reigned in " milder majesty." Here I rested for a few weeks, until I was again overtaken by the icy hand of old Winter. This time, however, I was determined to elude his grasp, and on the gth of January 1808 I went on board one of the regular packets for Charleston in South Carolina. The vessel was a small brig, called the Calliope, and commanded by Captain Records, who had formerly been an officer in the United States navy. There were four other passengers in the cabin : one of them, a Mr. Franklin of the New York bank, I had been introduced to the evening before ; a circumstance the more agreeable, as it is a better prelude to acquaintance than the casual meeting of strangers on board a ship ; and in a fo- reign country such little intimacies serve to render travelling very agreeable. This gentleman was a native of Nova Scotia, but had resided several years at New York : he was going to Charleston for the recovery of his health, which had been much impaired by the confinement of office. Another of the passengers was also going to avoid the sharp air of New England, and to pass the winter in Charleston for the double purpose of i 2 116 THE KNIFE GRINDER. recruiting his health and collecting some out- standing debts owing to him in that city. This gentleman, whose name was Turner, had resided several years at Charleston as a dancing- and fen- cing-master. He had been a captain in the con- tinental army during the American war ; but on the return of peace was disbanded, and obliged to take up those professions as the only means of ob- taining a livelihood. He was descended from an English family in Essex, and was proud to ac- knowledge it. His manners were uncommonly pleasant and amusing ; and during the whole pas- sage he afforded us great diversion by the face- tiousness of his disposition and the number of en- tertaining anecdotes which he related. The other passengers were, a Mr. Bird, an English gentle- man who resided in New York as merchant, and agent for a house in London ; and Mr. Wilson, a young American trader belonging to Gennessee county in the state of New York. These were the whole of the cabin passengers exclusive of myself. But I must not omit to mention a forecastle passenger who messed with the sailors. He was an old Irishman, who had lived many years in the United States, and was now going upon a speculation to Charleston in the itinerant knife- and razor-grinding profession. His wheels and other apparatus were stowed away hi the long-boat upon deck, and he took up hit PQWLE'S HOOK. 117 quarters in the hold upon some trusses of hay, which served him for a bed. He had for a fellow- passenger a florse, who while the grinder was asleep would frequently devour the bed from under him. We left New York about nine, with the ad- vantage of a fine clear morning and fair wind, to sail through the Narrows. There are three small islands in the bay; the largest of which, called Governor's Island, lies opposite the city to the eastward of the Battery. It consists of about 70 acres of land ; and its jurisdiction has been ceded by the State of New York to the United States, for the purposes of public defence. It contains a fortification called Fort Jay ; but that, as well as the fort on one of the smaller islands near the Jersey shore, is very inadequate to the defence of such a large and wealthy city. To the westward of New York, on the Jersey shore, is Powle's Hook. It is a small peninsula intersected with creeks and salt meadows, but of late has been considerably improved by a company who have established^themselves for the purpose of building a city, which is to become the capital of the state of New Jersey, and intended to rival New York. A few straggling buildings are all that yet appear. It was on this shore that General Hamilton and Colonel Burr evaded the laws of New 118 GUN- BO ATS. and fought the duel which proved fatal to the former gentleman. As we approached near Staten Island, we were boarded by an officer from one of the gun- boats cruising in the bay. He examined the captain's papers ; and being satisfied that we were bound only to a port in the United States, he allowed us to proceed on our voyage. Several instances have occurred of vessels breaking the embargo laws and escaping to the West Indies or Europe. They cannot, however, return while the act is in force, but must trade between foreign places under the protection of an English license, or a French cer- tificate of origin. We observed a great number of gun- boats at the Quarantine Ground. They are a small despicable craft, built of various sizes, shapes, and figures ; some with one mast, others with two : the latter have one mast raking forward, and the other aft, with narrow lug sails ; but they do not appear to please the eye of a seaman, for I have never yet heard them spoken of with approbation by any nautical man. They generally carry one gun from 24- to 38-pounder, and from 20 to 30 men, with two or three officers, though their full com- plement is upwards of 50 men. A part of the crew are artillerymen, who act also as marines. The accommodations on board are very uncom- QUARANTINE GROUND. fortable ; for few of them will admit a man to stand upright, being built broad and shallow, for the purpose of running into shoal water. When they put to sea in blowing weather, the men are constantly wet. They are only fit for smooth and shallow waters as a defence against the armed boats of hostile shipping; but never against the ships themselves ; for one broadside from a frigate would sink a dozen of them. The only service in which they have hitherto been of any use is in enforcing the municipal regulations of the United States upon the rivers, harbours, and waters of the Union. They have, however, been sometimes found inadequate even in this easy service ; for several vessels have escaped from port since the embargo, and even returned the fire of these in- significant craft. The Quarantine Ground is situated on the north- east side of Staten Island, and comprizes about thirty acres of land, which was bought by the state of New York about ten years ago for the ac- commodation of the sick, and for the detention of such vessels as were too foul for admission to the wharfs of the city. The ground is pleasantly si- tuated on the side of a hill ; and the neat and commodious appearance of the dwelling-houses, stores, hospitals, &c. is very agreeable, particularly to those who have just arrived from sea. A branch of the custom-house is also stationed here. A short 12O SANDY-HOOK. distance from this place is Signal- hill, where a number of poles are erected to display the public and private signals, which may be seen from the battery at New York. Every merchant has a par- ticular signal to inform him of the arrival of his vessels, long before they come in sight of the town, in the same manner as practised at Liverpool. The land hereabout is considerably elevated, and is divided from Long Island by a small channel called the Narrows. A shoal extends nearly one third across the channel towards Staten Island ; and from the appearance of the land on both shores, I am led to think that Staten and Long Island were formerly one. Sandy Hook is a narrow beach running from south to north, about eight miles from the foot of the Neversink Hills. It was formerly connected with the continent ; but during the winter of 1804 it was detached from thence, and formed into an island. Small coasting craft can pass through the opening at high water. A noble light-house is erected upon the Hook, and stands about due south from the city-hall of New York. During the American war, the Countess Dowager of Morton erected on the west side of Sandy-hook a fine monument of marble to the memory of her son, Lieutenant Haliburton of the royal navy, who, together with a boat's crew, perished there in a snow storm. A few years ago this work of pa- GULF STREAM. 121 rental affection was beat down and destroyed by the crew of a French armed ship, in a manner that reflects no honour upon their professional or manly feelings. It was ungenerous to wage war with the dead, or to demolish the works erected to perpetuate their fame. Towards evening we lost sight of the Neversink Hills, and could not help reflecting upon the ab- surdity of their name, while I beheld their sum- mits sink gradually into the ocean as the vessel receded from the coast. On the fourth day we passed the light-house on Cape Hatteras, about four in the afternoon, soon after which it came on to blow with great violence ; the wind changed, and by the next morning we found ourselves in the gulf stream. The gale continued to increase, and for six-and-thirty hours we lay-to under a double-reefed fore-and-aft main sail, and storm stay-sail. The gulf stream is said to be upwards of 100 miles distant from the coast, and is nearly of the same extent in breadth. It makes a circuit through the Gulf of Mexico, round Florida, from whence it runs to the northward as far as the banks of Newfoundland, where it branches off to the eastward. In this stream the sea is almost always violently agitated, and covered with dense vapours; its water is considerably warmer than that of the surrounding ocean, and of a greater depth. The fogs on the banks of Newfoundland are no doubt 122 ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON. ia a great measure produced by the gulf stream ; and from the rapidity of its currents breaking over such an immense surface of earth as the grand bank, arises that almost constant raging of the ocean peculiar to that place. On the sixth day the gale moderated ; but a heavy sea continued, and prevented us from get- ting clear of the gulf stream, which had carried us almost back again to the latitude of New York ; for it runs upon an average at the rate of three miles an hour. Fortunately for us the weather became more favourable ; and by the next morn- ing we were clear of the stream. It was, how- ever, upwards of seven days more before we ar- rived off Charleston, though its distance from New York is not more than 750 miles, and a pas- sage between the two cities is often made in three or four days. I was glad to find myself again on shore, after a rough and tedious voyage of fourteen days ; though I considered myself somewhat fortunate, for Mr. Welch, who left me at New York, was three weeks on his passage to Charleston. It was now the 23d of January, and a smart frost had pre- vailed here for two or three days; but no snow had fallen so far to the southward. The weather after- wards became extremely mild, and even rivalled in warmth an English summer. The site of Charleston nearly resembles that of CHARLESTON STREETS. 123 New York, being on a point of land at the con- fluence of the rivers Ashley and Cooper, and about fifteen miles distant from the light-house. The town is built on a level sandy soil, which is ele- vated but a few feet above the height of spring tides. The streets extend east and west between the two rivers ; and others intersect them nearly at right angles from north to south. From its open exposure to the ocean it is subject to storms and in- undations, which affect the security of its harbour. The city has also suffered much by fires : the last, in 17965 destroyed upwards of 500 houses, and oc- casioned 300,000/. sterling damage. The number of dwelling-houses, public build- ings, and warehouses, &c. at present in Charles- ton, is estimated at 3,500. With the exception of Meeting. street, Broad-street, and the Bay, the streets are in general narrow and confined. They are all unpaved; and in blowing weather whirl* winds of dust and sand fill the houses, and blind the eyes of the people. The foot paths are all con- structed of bricks ; but a few years ago not even this convenience existed. It is said that objections have been made to the paving of Charleston, under an impression that it would render the streets- hotter : but this must surely be an erroneous idea; for a sandy soil imbibes the heat much quicker, and retains it longer, than a pavement of stone. Yet even if that were not the case, still the delete- 124 EAST' BAY. rious effect which the sand, exposed to the action of violent winds, must necessarily have upon the eyes and lungs of the inhabitants, would more than counterbalance the increase of heat that it is supposed would accrue from paving the streets. I should, however, rather suspect that it is the expense alone which is objectionable ; since the paving of the streets in Philadelphia has rendered that city both healthy and cool, and its salutary effects are obvious to the inhabitants. The drains in Charleston are also too small to carry off the filth and putrid matter which collect from all parts of the town : these, and the numerous swamps and stagnant pieces of water, mud, &c. in the neigh- bourhood, no doubt tend considerably to the un- healthiness of the place. The houses in the streets near the water side, including that part of the town between Meeting- street and the street called East Bay, are lofty and closely built. The bricks are of a peculiar nature, being of a porous texture, and capable of resisting the weather better than the firm, close, red brick of the northern states. They are made in Caro- lina, and are of a dark-brown colour, which gives the buildings a gloomy appearance. The roofs are tiled or slated. In this part of the town the prin- cipal shopkeepers and merchants have their stores, warehouses, and counting-houses. Houses here bear a very high rent : those in Broad and Church- CHARLESTON HOUSES. 125 streets for shops, let for upwards of 300/. per annum ; those along the Bay with warehouses let for 700/. and more, according to the size and si- tuation of the buildings. The shipping, as at New York, lie along the wharfs, or in small docks and slips along the town. The wharfs are built of a pe- culiar sort of wood, called the palmetto or cabbage- tree, the trunk of which is of a spongy, porous substance, and has the quality of being more du- rable in water, or under ground, than when ex- posed to the air. This renders it particularly ex- cellent for the construction of wharfs, piers, &c. The embargo had reached Charleston about a fort- night before I arrived; I had not, therefore, an op- portunity of judging of its trade from appearances, as every thing was dull and flat, and all business except the coasting trade completely at a stand. The houses in Meeting- street and the back parts of the town are many of them handsomely built ; some of brick, others of wood. They are in ge- neral lofty and extensive, and are separated from each other by small gardens or yards, in which the kitchens and out-offices are built. Almost every house is furnished with balconies and ve- randas, some of which occupy the whole side of the building from top to bottom, having a gallery for each floor. They are sometimes shaded with Venetian blinds, and afford the inhabitants a plea- sant cool retreat from the scorching beams of the 126 THE BRANCH BANtf. - sun. Most of the modern houses are built with much taste and elegance; but the chief aim seems to be, to make them as cool as possible. The town is also crowded with wooden buildings of a very inferior description. Three of the public buildings, and the episcopal church of St. Michael, are situated at the four corners formed by the intersection of Broad and Meeting-streets, the two principal avenues in Charleston. St. Michael's is a large substantial church, with a lofty steeple and spire. It is built of brick cased with plaster. At present it is not in the best state of repair, yet it is no bad orna- ment to the town. The Branch Bank of the United States occupies one of the other corners. This is a substantial, and, compared with others in the town, a handsome building ; but from the in* judicious intermixtureof brick,stone and marble, it has a motley appearance. The body is of red brick; the corners, sides, and front are ornamented and interspersed with stone ; pillars of marble adorn the entrance, and a facing of the same covers the front of the ground story. The expense of this building, I understand, was enormous. Another corner of the street is occupied by the gaol, with a court-yard and armoury. This building is no great ornament to the place; but its situation, being nearly centrical in the city, is well adapted to further the regulations of the police. A guard CHARLESTON LIBRARY. 127 of about fifty men is maintained by tbe city, and assembles every evening at the gaol, where it is ready to act in case of disturbance. The men are chiefly foreigners. The negro slaves and servants are not allowed to be out after the beating of the drum at eight o'clock ; otherwise they are taken, up by the guard when going its rounds, and con- fined in the gaol. The master or mistress must pay a dollar before they can be liberated, else the offender receives a flogging at the sugar-house. The fourth corner is occupied by a large sub- stantial building of brick cased with plaster. The ground floor is appropriated to the courts of law ; above that are most of the public offices, and the upper story contains the Charleston Library and Museum. The lower parts of the building are much out of repair, but the upper apartments are kept in good order. During my stay, I was al- lowed free access to the library, having been in- troduced by a friend to Mr. Davidson the librarian. It was open from nine in the morning till two in the afternoon, and I spent many an hour in it very agreeably. The library contains about 4,OOO volumes, well selected and arranged. They are mostly modern publications. The library contains Boydell's elegant edition of Shakspeare, and the large prints are framed, and hung up round the room. The portraits of the king and queen, belonging to that edition, are 128 THE MUSEUM. placed on either side the door-way leading to the inner room. I was not surprised at the obscurity of their situation, but was astonished to find them exhibited at all ; and it is said that some opposi- tion was made to their being put up. There is a large painting, executed by a Mr. White, of Charleston, exhibited in the library, and it is con- sidered a very favourable effort for a young artist. The subject is the murder of Prince Arthur. The countenances of the ruffians are scarcely harsh enough, and their figures are not well proportioned. It is, however, a more successful specimen than could possibly be expected in a place where the arts meet with no encouragement, and where genius must resort to agriculture or commerce, to law or physic, if it wishes to avoid starvation ! Some new casts from the Apollo Belvidere, Venus de Me- dicis, Venus rising from the sea, &c. were depo- sited in the library to be exhibited fora short time. They were the property of Mr. Middleton, and had lately arrived from Paris. The library also contains a few natural curiosities, such as fossils, minerals, mammoth bones, snakes, armadilloes, poisonous insects in spirits, &c. and two remark- able deer's horns which were found locked in each other, so as to render it impossible to separate them without breaking. It is supposed that the two animals had been fighting, and had forcibly locked their horns together in the onset, and POISONOUS TREK. 129 being unable to extricate themselves, they both perished. A Museum has been lately established by a gentleman, who occupies a room adjoining the library. His collection at present consists chiefly of birds; and I doubt whether the libe- rality of the inhabitants will enable him to in- crease it. A tree called the Pride of India (Melia aze- darach) is planted in rows along the foot paths of the streets in Charleston. It does not grow very high, but its umbrageous leaves and branches afford the inhabitants an excellent shelter from the sun. It has the advantage also of not engen- dering insects, none of which can live upon it, in consequence of its poisonous qualities. The large clusters of flowers in blossom resemble the lilac ; these are succeeded by bunches of yellow berries, each about the size of a small cherry, and like it containing one stone. It is a deciduous tree; but the berries remain on it all the winter, and drop off the following spring. Notwithstanding the pernicious qualities of this tree, I have seen the cows and swine eat the berries, which often lie upon the ground in large quanti- ties. It is said that cattle, and even birds, are so fond of the fruit, that they frequently extend their bodies by excessive eating, and fall down intoxi- cated ; but I have never heard that they have been poisoned in consequence. Yet I was told by a VOL. II. K 130 POISONOUS TREE. gentleman at Savannah, that a friend of his had ascertained its noxious qualities, by steeping a quantity of the leaves in water, with which he wa- tered the plants in his garden that were infested with caterpillars and other vermin, and it killed every one of them. This satisfactorily accounts for the reason why no insect can dwell upon this tree: yet it is singular that the berries and leaves (for it is asserted that cattle eat both, though I have only seen them eat the former,) should not affect those animals and birds which partake so greedily of them ; while the mere sprinkling of a decoction of the leaves upon insects will imme- diately destroy them. The powerful odour which is emitted from these trees, where they are planted numerously, is often sickly and unpleasant; at a distance it is agreeable, but faint. I really think th'ey cannot be advantageous in a populous city. The copious perspiration arising from their leaves, which have been proved to possess a poisonous quality to insects, must inevitably affect the sur- rounding atmosphere, and, in conjunction with the putrid exhalations from marshes, swamps, filthy bogs, drains, and sewers, in and about the town, cannot fail to accumulate those gross putrescent fluids which cause a variety of irregular, nervous, bilious, remitting, and intermitting fevers. These no doubt ultimately engender that dreadful scourge the typhus icterodes, or yellow fever, which is pe- PERNICIOUS EFFECTS OF THE PRIDE OF INDIA. 131 culiar to Charleston, and is not known to have originated in the interior. It is said that a decoction of the roots of the Pride of India is an excellent anthelmintic, and is used with much success in worm cases. This however will prove nothing against its deleterious qualities in other respects; for it is well known that we make use of a great number of poisonous herbs, and minerals, in medicine. Professor Thunberg, in his Travels to Japan, says, the fruit of this tree was there used like the seeds of the Rhus succedanea, for making an expressed oil, which oil grew hard like tallow, and was used for candles. It would be an object worthy of inquiry for the medical gentlemen of Charleston, to ascer- O ' tain, if possible, whether this tree is beneficial or injurious to the health of the inhabitants. The very advantage for which it is preferred above other trees, appears to me a strong objection against it ; for, if it causes the death of those insects which approach it, I do not see how it can be otherwise than hurtful to the human frame constantly imbibing, under a burning sun, the faint and sickly vapours which arise from its wide- spreading foliage. It is surprising that the inhabitants of Charles- ton, after what they have suffered from fevers, should allow so many stagnant pieces of water, and filthy bogs, to remain in different parts of K 2 132 TURKEY BUZZARDS. the town ad neighbourhood, under the very win- dows of the dwelling-houses. Surely they might fill them up, and prevent such nuisances from affecting the health of the people, as they cannot fail to do in their present state. The salt marshes and swamps around the town, which are situate so low as to be overflowed at high water, or spring tides, cannot be avoided, though they emit a very disagreeable effluvium at night; yet the other nuisances which I have mentioned might be easily removed. Another very extraordinary, indolent, or parsi- monious neglect of their own health and comfort is, the filthy and brutal practice of dragging dying horses, or the carcases of dead ones, to a field in the outskirts of the town, near the high road, and leaving them to be devoured by a crowd of raven- ous dogs and turkey buzzards. The latter are large black birds resembling a turkey both in size and appearance ; but from their carnivorous nature they have a most offensive smell. They hover over Charleston in great numbers, and are useful in destroying the putrid substances which lie in different parts of the city : for this reason they are not allowed to be killed. The encourage- ment of these carrion birds, however useful they may be, is extremely improper; for the people, instead of burying putrid substances, or throwing" them into the river, are thus induced to leave THE GOtGOTHA. 133 them upon dunghills, exposed to the action of a powerful sun in the hottest seasons, to be de- stroyed by those birds. The latter, though efc- tremely quick in devouring their dainty morsels, yet do not demolish them before the air is impreg- nated with the most noxious effluvia, arising from the putrid carcases of dead dogs, cats, horses, &c. I have frequently seen half a dozen dogs and above a hundred turkey buzzards barking and hissing in fierce contention for the entrails, eyes, and other delicate morceaux of a poor unfortunate horse, whose carcase would perhaps lie so near the side of the road, that, unless passengers were to windward, they ran no little risk from the in- fectious vapours that assailed their olfactory nerves. A part of the common at the back of the town is a perfect Golgotha ; where piles of horses' bones serve the negro- washerwomen to place their tubs on. Such neglect on the part of the municipal officers, respecting these nuisances, would be un- pardonable in any populous town ; but how cul- pable must it be in a large city, like Charleston, whose local situation is unavoidably unwholesome! Every year increases the fatal experience of its inhabitants ; and yet they neglect the only reme- dies which are acknowledged to be effectual, viz. a clean town and a pure air. These might be obtained, if not wholly, at least in part, by paving 134 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. the streets; cleansing and enlarging the common sewers ; Jilting up bogs, ditches, and pools of stag- nant Jilt h, with earth; cutting down the poisonous trees which line the streets, and planting others possessed of more wholesome properties ; draining the useless marshes in the neighbourhood, and con- fining the tide within certain bounds ; adopting useful regulations for the prevention of disease, and maintaining the streets and habitations in a constant state of cleanness. The inhabitants are rich enough to carry into execution these im- provements, nor would their time and money be spent in vain ; for, as the town increased in healthiness, so it would increase in population, ivealth, and splendour, and rival, in trade and com- merce, the richest cities of the north. The principal public buildings, besides those which I have already enumerated, are the ex- change, a large respectable building situated in the East Bay, opposite Broad street ; a poor-house ; a college, or rather grammar-school; a theatre; and an orphan-house. This latter building is worthy of the city of Charleston. It is built at the back of the town, on the site of an old forti- fication, which, in the American war, proved the chief defence of the town when besieged by Sir Henry Clinton. The house is an extensive and commodious building of brick, and was erected in 1792. The establishment resembles our THE ORPHAN-HOUSE. 135 him for female orphans, except that it is not con- fined to girls only. It contains about 150 chil- dren of both sexes, and the annual expense for provision, clothing, firewood, &c. is about 14.00O dollars, which is defrayed by t!i legislature of the State of South Carolina. Since its institution, upwards of 1,700 boys and girls have been re- ceived into the house. The boys are supported and educated to the age of fourteen, and are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic: the girls are supported and educated until twelve years of age, and are taught the same, besides sewing and spin- ning. They are then bound out to some respect- able citizen for a term of service, and distributed into nine classes; one of which is assigned to each commissioner of the orphan-house, who visits them occasionally, and sees that proper attention is paid to them by the persons to whom they are indented. The girls of this institution spin and card as much cotton (which is given to the insti- tution by charitable persons) as supplies both the boys and girls with summer clothes. On every Sunday morning a suitable discourse is read to the children, by one of the commissioners in ro- tation, at which time they repeat their catechism; and in the afternoon of that day divine service is performed by some one of the ministers of the gospel from the city or parts adjacent, in a chapel erected adjoining the orphan-house, which is also 136 THE THEATRE. open to the inhabitants. As there is no esta- blished form of worship in the United States, the episcopal, presbyterian, and independent ministers of Charleston perform service alternately, in the form of their respective persuasions. It was in- tended to have appointed a regular minister ; but there was such a difference of opinion as to what sect he should be chosen from, that the sub- ject was dropped. Baptists and Methodists, &c. are, J believe, excluded from performing service in the orphan-house chapel. I attended one Sunday, and heard Dr. Buist, the preshyterian minister. The chapel is small, and was crowded With people: it put me in mind of the Asylum, or Magdalen, in every thing, except paying for admittance, which is dispensed with at Charleston. The theatre is a plain brick building, situated at the top of Broad-street. It is about the size of our Circus or Surrey theatre, but not so handsomely fitted up. The establishment seems to be at pre- sent upon a very indifferent footing, particularly since the embargo, which in the course of a month reduced the performers to half -pay. The present manager is a Mr. Placide, who formerly exhibited his nimble capers at Sadler's Wells. He married one of the da lighters of Mrs.Wrighten, originally a favourite singer at Vauxhall. She went to Ame- rica, with many others of our theatrical heroes and heroines, and, like several of thena, found an THE THEATRE. untimely grave at Charleston. Mr, Hatton of the Haymarket theatre was engaged by the Charleston manager, and arrived in that city early in ISO/. In tiie course of the summer he sang at the Vaux- hall gardens, and in a few weeks fell a victim to the yellow fever. Mrs. Hatton had a benefit afterwards at the theatre, and returned home the following spring. Among the female performers Mrs. Woodhain is considered in every respect as the best. She possesses youth, beauty, and talents, attractions which never fail to captivate an audi- ence, and consequently she is a great favourite with the Charlestonians. Her husband died while I was in Charleston : he was a performer in the orchestra, but had originally made his appearance on the stage. Mr. Sully is a most excellent comic actor, and trampoline performer. A young gen- tleman of considerable property, and respectable family, is married to one of his sisters, who was also a performer on the stage. Mr. Cooper generally performs at the Charles- ton theatre every summer, and never fails to draw crowded houses even in the most sultry weather. He dashes about in a curricle; and after remain- ing about a fortnight in the city, he returns to the northward with replenished pockets, if they are not previously emptied by extravagance. A good benefit is reckoned to produce about eight hun- dred dollars. One side of the theatre is in the 138 THE THEATRE. rules of the gaol ; which is a very convenient cir- cumstance for the ladies of easy virtue and others who are confined in durance vile. I expected to find the Charleston stage well supplied with sooty negroes, who would have performed the African and Savage characters, in the dramatic pieces, to the life; instead of which the delusion was even worse than on our own stage ; for so far from em* ploying real negroes, the performers would not even condescend to blacken their faces, or dress in any manner resembling an African. This I after- wards learnt was occasioned hy motives of policy, lest the negroes in Charleston should conceive, from being represented on the stage, and having their colour, dress, manners, and customs imitated by the white people, that they were very impor- tant personages; and might take improper liber- ties in consequence of it. For this reason, also, Othello and other plays where a black mail is the hero of the piece are not allowed to be performed; nor are any of the negroes or people of colour permitted to visit the theatre. During my stay in Charleston the " Travellers" was performed for Mrs. Placide's benefit; the last act was con- verted wholly into an American scene, and the al- lusions and claptraps transferred from an Engluli Admiral to an American Commodore. In this manner most of our dramatic pieces are obliged to be pruned of all their luxuriant compliments to VAUXHALL. 139 John Bull, before they can be rendered palatable to American republicans. Some few, however, inadvertently escape the priming-knife of the ma- nager ; and I was not a little amused sometimes to hear the praises of my country warmly ap- plauded in the theatre, while whole coffee- houses of politicians would be up in arms at the bare men- tion of its name. The garden dignified by the name of Vauxhall is also under the direction of Mr Placide. It is situated in Broad-street, a short distance from the theatre, surrounded by a brick wall, but possesses no decoration worthy of notice. It is not to be com- pared even with the common tea-gardens in the vicinity of London. There are some warm and cold baths on one side for the accommodation of the inhabitants. In the summer, vocal and in- strumental concerts are performed here, and some of the singers from the theatre are engaged for the season. The situation and climate of Charleston are, however, by no means adapted for entertain- ments al fresco. The heavy dews and vapours which arise from the swamps and marshes in its neighbourhood, after a hot day, are highly inju- rious to the constitution, particularly while it is inflamed by the wine and spirituous liquors which are drunk in the garden. It is, also, the period of the sickly season when the garden is open for public amusement, and the death of many per- t 4O ANECDOTE OF MRS. S . formers and visitors may be ascribed to the en* tertainments given at that place. There are four or five hotels and coffee-houses in Charleston ; but, except the Planters' hotel in Meeting-street, there is not one superior to an English public-house. The accommodations at the Planters' hotel are respectable, and the price about twelve dollars a-week. There are several private boarding-houses, from seven to fourteen dollars per week, according to their respectability. A curious anecdote is related of a lady who keeps the best boarding-house in the city. Soon after she became a widow, an old Scotch gentleman, a merchant of Charleston, paid his addresses to her, and solicited her hand in marriage. The court- o ship proceeded for a decent length of time, in order that it might not be said she wished to marry before her first u dear man" was cold in his grave. She then very willingly consented to throw off her weeds, and put on the bridal dress. But whether the old gentleman repented of his hasty love, or had some private reason for declining the marriage, I know not : he, however, put off the nuptial ceremony from time to time until his fair inamorata became impatient, and demanded the fulfilment of his promise, which it seems the old gentleman had unluckily given. He was now under the necessity of coming to an eclaircisse- ment, and positively refused to marry her, giving ANECDOTE OF MRS. S- . 141 as a reason that he understood she was rather too fond of the bottle. This false and scandalous accu- sation highly incensed the lady ; and finding that he was going to reside in England, she disposed of her house and property, and followed him to London, where she commenced an action against him for breach of promise, and for defamation. The damages were laid at several thousand pounds, and eminent counsel were retained for the cause. The old gentleman finding himself so closely pressed, and likely to be a great loser by his un- fortunate courtship, would have willingly married her rather than have to pay such enormous da- mages. This would very likely have taken place, for the lady herself was by no means hard-hearted, and might perhaps have taken the old spark to her bed, had not a keen relation of his, who pro- bably was looking forward to a snug little legacy, said to him : " Why, mon 9 would you disgrace the blood of the M'Cl s ?" and offered to settle the dispute with the spirited widow. Matters were accordingly adjusted in an amicable manner: the lady withdrew her'action, and the old gentleman paid her 700/. and all expenses. She afterwards returned to Charleston, and opened a very hand- some boarding-house, which is resorted to by all the fashionable strangers who arrive in the city. The old gentleman has visited Charleston 142 MARKET PLACE. several times since to recover bis outstanding debts and property, and I dare say never passes ber bouse without a sigh for the loss of both wife and cash. Charleston contains a handsome and commo- dious market place, extending from Meeting- street to the water-side, which is as well supplied with provisions as the country will permit. Com- pared, however, with the markets of the northern towns, the supply is very inferior both in quality and quantity. The beef, mutton, veal, and pork, of South Carolina are seldom met with in perfec- tion ; and the hot weather renders il impossible to keep the meat many hours after it is killed. Large supplies of corned beef and pork are brought from the northern states. Though the rivers abound with a great variety of fish, yet very few are brought to market. Oysters, however, are abundant, and are cried about the streets by the negroes. They are generally shelled, put into small pails, which the negroes carry on their heads, and sold by the measure : the price is about 8d. per quart. Vege- tables have been cultivated of late years with great success, and there is a tolerable supply in the market. The long potatoe is a great favourite with the Carolinians. There are two kinds, which differ in nothing but the colour. When boiled, they eat sweet, and mealy, resembling very much a boiled MARKET PRODUCTIONS. 143 chesnut. Apples, pears, and other fruit are very scarce, being only brought occasionally from the northern states. In summer Charleston is tole- rably well supplied with the fruits peculiar to southern climates ; and large quantities of pine apples, &c. are brought from the West Indies. Wild ducks, geese, turkeys, and other fowl, are brought to market by the country people, though not in very great abundance. The expense of living at Charleston may be estimated from the following table of commo- dities, the prices of which are in sterling money. Bread about 3d. per lb., butter yd., cheese 6d., beef 5t. The long credit which merchants and traders through- out Charleston are obliged to give the planters and other people of property in the state, is the sub- ject of universal complaint among the former ; and whatever credit the Carolinians may deserve for EXTRAVAGANCE AND DISSIPATION. 147 their " unaffected hospitality, affability, ease of manners, and address/' so flatteringly mentioned in every edition of Morse's Geography, yet the payment of their debts can never be reckoned among their virtues. When they receive money in advance for their crops of cotton or rice, it is immediately squan- dered away in the luxuries of fashion, good eating and drinking, or an excursion to the northern states ; where, after dashing about for a month or two with tandems, curricles, livery servants, and outriders, they frequently return home in the stage coach with scarcely dollars enough in their pocket to pay their expenses on the road. If their cre- ditors often or a dozen years standing become very clamorous, a small sum is perhaps paid them in part, unless the law interferes, and compels them to pay the whole debt and as much for costs. Thus the planter proceeds in his career of extra- vagance, which in the midst of riches renders him continually poor. With an estate worth 200,000 dollars he has seldom a dollar in his pocket but what is borrowed upon an anticipated crop : hence it may be truly said that he lives only from hand to mouth. In the town of Charleston, where they for the most part have handsome houses, they live for the time being like princes : and those strangers who 'visit the city at that period, and have the means of L 2 148 PLANTERS' SPLENDID POVERTY. being introduced at their houses, are sure to meet a hearty welcome. Every article that the market can supply is to be found at their festive board. The wine flows in abundance, and nothing affords them greater satisfaction than to see their guests drop gradually wider the table after dinner. Ho- spitality is indeed their characteristic as long as the cash lasts : but when that is gone they retire to their plantations. There they are obliged to dis- pense with the luxuries, and often with the com- forts, which they enjoyed in town. Every thing is made subservient to the cultivation of cotton and rice for the next year's round of dissipation. With hundreds of slaves about them, and cattle of va- rious kinds, they are often without butter, cheese, and even milk, for many weeks. Fodder is fre- quently so scarce, that the cows, horses, &c. look half starved, and are driven into the pine barrows and woods to pick up a few mouthfuls of rank grass. The habitations of many of the planters are also in a dilapidated state, and destitute of the comforts and conveniences of domestic life. As to their negro-huts, they frequently defy all de- scription. This mode of living among the planters, of which the brilliant side only is exposed to public view, is followed more or Jess by most of the gentry in Charleston, and has led strangers to give them the character of a free, affable, and generous PRIDE AND INDOLENCE OF PLANTERS. 149 people. Others, however, who have had better opportunities of judging of their real character, charge them with ostentation, and a haughty su- percilious behaviour. These opposite qualities, no doubt, attach individually to many of the inhabi- tants, and most perhaps to the planters, who, it is natural to suppose, consider themselves in a more elevated and independent situation than the mer- chants who dispose of their produce, or the traders who furnish them with the necessaries of life. Hence they may be somewhat tinctured with that pride arid haughtiness with which they are charged. At the same time their free and extra- vagant style of living, their open and friendly re- ception of strangers and visitors at their table, have no doubt won the hearts of those who have partaken of their good cheer, and established that excellent character which is said to be predominant among them. Unlike the farmer and merchant of the northern states, who are themselves indefatigably employed from morning to night, the Carolinian lolls at his case under the shady piazza before his house, smoking segars and drinking sangoree; while his numerous slaves and overseers are cultivating a rice swamp or cotton field with the sweat of their brow, the produce of which is to furnish their luxurious master with the means of Figuring away for a few months in the city, or an excursion to the north- 150 MONEY LENDERS. LONG CREDIT. ward. Property thus easily acquired is as readily squandered away ; and the Carolinian, regarding only the present moment for the enjoyment of his pleasures, runs into extravagance and debt. Where there are numerous borrowers, there will always be plenty of lenders ; and many of the more shrewd and saving moneyed people of Charleston are ever ready to accommodate the rich, the gay, and the extravagant, with loans upon good security. Even some of the divines in that city are not ashamed to take an active part in money lending; and while they are preaching to their creditors the necessity of laying up a store in heaven, " where neither moth nor rust doth cor- rupt" they are busily employed in laying up for themselves a store of the good things of this world. How seldom is it that precept and example are united in the same person! The merchants, traders, and shopkeepers of Charleston are obliged to lay a profit, frequently of 150 or 200 per cent, and more, upon their goods, for the long credit which the gentry are accus- tomed to take. Where they meet with good pay- ments, they seldom fail to realize an independent fortune; for they sell nothing under 50 per cent., even for ready money : but it often happens that, after they retire from business, they have a number of debts to collect in. I met with several Scotch gentlemen at Charleston and Savannah, who had CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 151 retired from business at those places, and resided in their native country, but were obliged to make frequent voyages to America to recover the re- mainder of their property. This is the case with most of those who have been in business in the towns of the southern states ; hut where one suc- ceeds, twenty are ruined. Captain Turner, my fellow-passenger in the packet, told me that he had debts owing to him of twenty years standing, even by parents and their children, whose dancing had never been paid for by e-ther generation. Notwithstanding the vast sums of money la- vished away by the planters and gentry of South Carolina, their equipages do not equal those of the northern states. They have certainly a greater number of slaves to attend them, but their coaches, carriages, and chaises, are mostly old and shabby. They have some excellent horses; but in general they are badly broke in, and will start and fly at almost every object they meet. Horse-racing is a favourite amusement with the Carolinians, though more discountenanced than formerly, many fami- lies having suffered greatly by the gambling bets made at the races. The Charleston races were held during my stay in that city. They com- menced on Wednesday the l/th of February, and finished on the Saturday following. The first day, seven horses ran for a purse of 600 dollars ; the second day, five for 400 dollars; the third 152 CHARLESTON RACES. day, three for 300 dollars ; and the last day, a handicap purse of about 500 dollars was run for by all the horses that were distanced the pre- ceding days. The race-course is about a mile and half from the city, on a fine level piece of ground, a full mile in circumference. Four mile heats are run for, by American-raised horses, and generally performed in eight minutes, though on the second day of the races this year one of the heats was performed in seven minutes. The races are under the direction of a jockey- el ub, from whose fund the purses which are run for are prepared. The second day of the races was uncommonly hot for the month of February. The thermometer stood at 82 in the shade, and the number of horses and vehicles of every de- scription, passing to and from the race-ground, made the dust and sand fly about in clouds. The admittance to the race course was half a dollar for horses, and a dollar for carriages. There was not so large a concourse of people on the race- ground as I expected to see, and I was told that the races were very thinly attended. From the dullness of the times, the planters were short of cash, and many would not come into town. The purses were therefore poor, and few bets were made. But the preceding year, a purse of 1,OOO dollars was run for, and two or three young ladies entered into the spirit of horse-racing with as THE RACE-COURSE. 153 much eagerness as the men. They sent their own horses to run, and betted with each other to a considerable amount. Several large booths were fitted up at one end of the race-ground, and handsome cold collations of meat, poultry, and salads, were laid out on long tables for the accommodation of those who chose to dine there after the races. The day I was there, there were only two four- mile heats, and they were over before two o'clock. The gentry then returned to town, and spent the day in dinner parties, and the evening in balls and concerts. The middling and lower classes of the people remained on tUe ground, and diverted themselves with some hack races ; after which they repaired to the booths, and finished the day in humble imitation of their superiors. A num- ber of sailors enjoyed themselves with their girls, in the smaller booths ; and the negroes, with their dingy misses, came in for a share of the fun. At night they all came reeling into town, well charged with wine, rum-punch, gin sling, and sangoree. The period of the races, though short, was the only time that Charleston appeared to be enlivened during my residence there. There were no public entertainments, except occasional plays, and a concert once a fortnight; and they were so slightly attended, that the performers at the theatre were put on half-pay, and the concerts were with dif* 154 AMUSEMENTS OF THE PEOPLE. ficulty maintained. Private parties were also greatly abridged, and the town seemed to be en- veloped in gloomy despondence. This was the natural effect of the stagnation of trade created by the emba-go, which compelled the planters to sell their produce for less than one-half the usual price; and it was not always they could find pur- chasers, even on those conditions ; as none, except a few speculating individuals from New-York and Boston, would lay out their money in cotton and rice, which frequently became a mere drug in the merchants' stores. Hunting, shooting, fishing, and riding, are more or less the diversions of the Carolinians through- out the state. They are generally excellent shots, and a good rifleman will be sure of a deer, or wild turkey, at 1 50 yards. A huntsman with a smooth- barrelled gun will kill a deer at hrs utmost speed at the distance of near 100 yards. In the lower country, deer- hunting is the favourite amusement of the country gentlemen. For this purpose they associate in hunting clubs once a fortnight or month, besides their own private sport. The bays and woods afford a great plenty of this game ; and when the deer are roused by the hounds, they are either shot down immediately by the gentlemen who are stationed on either side the bays, or they meet their fate at the different stands by which the deer direct their course, and to which the RIFLE SHOOTING. RIDING. 155 huntsmen had previously repaired. Double-bar- relled guns are mostly used in these cases, loaded with buck shot, and sometimes with single ball; and so excellent is the skill of many persons ac- customed to this mode of hunting, that a deer has been often killed by each barrel of the gun, as soon as they could be successively discharged. Sometimes the deer are seen in flocks of eight or ten in number; and as many as four or five have been killed in a single hunting of a few hours. The country gentlemen do not enter much into the sport of fowling, Carolinians generally prefer- ring riding to walking; and when game of this kind is wanted for family use, they for the most part send out a servant to procure it. In the upper part of the State, the young men are particularly expert at rifle-shooting ; and ar- ticles instead of being put up at vendue are often shot for, with rifles, at a small price each shot, which is a more useful and honourable mode than the practice of raffling adopted in the lower country. This method of disposing of goods is worthy of imitation in England, and would soon render the people excellent marksmen. Although a riding-master is little known in Carolina, yet the people are generally good horsemen, and make their way through thick woods with surprising dispatch. This is effected by allowing boys at 156 JUVENILE CRUELTY TO SLAVES. the age of seven or eight years to commence riding, either to school or elsewhere; and soon after they are allowed the use of a ^un, from which they in a few years become expert huntsmen. The Carolinians are all partial to riding, and even in Charleston few ladies venture to walk. They are seldom seen out of doors, except in their coach or chaise. This renders the streets of that city very gloomy to a stranger who has been used to the Bond-street of London, the Rue St. Honort of Paris, or the Broadivay of New York, where so many lovely forms continually fleet be- fore his eye. Many of the ladies of Charleston are, however, not inferior in beauty and accom- plishments to the ladies of the Northern States, though they labour under the disadvantage of an unhealthy climate. If the younger part of society have failings different from others, they rnay be attributed to their unavoidable intercourse with the slaves, by whose milk they are frequently nourished, and in the midst of whom they are generally educated. Parents are often too indul- gent, and will frequently suffer their children to tyrannize over the young slaves, one or two of whom are usually appropriated to the use of each of the planter's children, and become their pro- perty. Htnce they are nurtured in the strongest prejudices against the blacks, whom they are DUELLING. 157 taught to look upon as beings almost without a soul, and whom they sometimes treat with unpar- donable severity. From having their early passions and propensi- ties so much indulged, the young Carolinians are too apt to acquire a rash, fiery, and impetuous disposition, which renders them incapable of com- prehending Shakspeare's admirable definition of honour : " Not to be captious, not unjustly fight j " 'Tis to confess what's wrong, and do what's right." Private quarrels frequently disgrace the public prints: challenges are sent; and if refused, the parties are posted as " prevaricating poltroons and coivards" A few months before I arrived, a duel took place between two young gentlemen of respectable families, which terminated in the death of both. There is, perhaps, no country in the world where duels are so frequent as in the United States. During my short stay of six months in that country, there were upwards of fourteen fought which came to my knowledge; and not one of them in which the parties were not either killed or wounded. Since my departure, I heard of a duel having been fought with rifles at only seven paces distance, in which two young men, whose families were of the highest respec- tability, were both killed on the spot. Such acts of desperation would lead one to suspect that the 158 SULLIVAN'S ISLAND. Americans were a blood-thirsty people ; for they might satisfy their false honour at a greater di- stance from each other, and with less determinate marks of revenge. Duels are frequent and dis- graceful enough in England ; but they are far ex- ceeded in the United States, where young men are in the habit of training themselves up as duel- lists. How much is it to be regretted that the admirable example of Marshal Turenne is not fol- lowed by those who conceive themselves injured ! The man who rights a duel is a coward^ compared with him who braves the false opinion of the world. The amusements in Charleston during the hot months of the year are very few. The Vauxhali garden is the only public place of recreation, and that by no means safe after a sultry day. For two or three months during the sickly season, the genteel people shut themselves up in their houses, or retire to Sullivan's Island, situate in the harbour about six miles below the city. On this island a settlement has been effected called Moultrie- ville, after Major-general William Moultrie, who from a fort on the island in 1776 frustrated the attempt of a British naval armament under the command of Sir Peter Parker. Its commence- ment was about the year 1791? when the legis- lature passed an act, permitting people to build thereon half-acre lots; subject to the condition JEWS. 159 of their being removed, whenever demanded, by the governor or com m an der-in -chief. Almost every part of the island, which is nearly three miles long, is now occupied, and contains upwards of two hundred dwelling-houses, besides kitchens and out offices. This place is little resorted to during the winter and spring; but in the summer and autumn numbers of people reside there, for pleasure or health ; and packet boats are plying, at all hours, between it and Charleston. Along the hard beach of this island, its inhabitants enjoy the amusements of riding or walking; while the ocean incessantly breaks its waves at their feet, and vessels pass within two or three hundred yards of the shore. There are a great number of Jews settled in Charleston ; and they live principally in King- street, where their shops are crowded together, and exhibit as motley a collection of clothing and wearing apparel as can be found in Hounds- ditch or Rag-fair. They are sufficiently nume- rous to have a synagogue ; and one company of the volunteer militia is formed entirely of Jews, They are, as is the case in most countries, moneyed people: and on their sabbaths the young Jewesses walk out in fine flowing dresses, that would better suit the stage or ball-room than the street. I saw only one Quaker in Charleston, and he is as remarkable for the singular plainness of bis l6O OUTRAGES AT CHARLESTON. dress as the large property which he possesses. Of the traders and shopkeepers settled in Charles- ton, a great number are Scotch, who generally acquire considerable property, by close and per- severing habits of industry J after which, they most commonly return to their native country. There are also several Irish traders, but their number is far inferior to the Scotch. At the period when the Americans were so much exasperated against Great Britain, in con- sequence of the attack upon the Chesapeake fri- gate, the British subjects throughout the States were in an awkward predicament, and for some time were under the necessity of keeping within doors, until the fury of the populace was some- what abated. In Charleston, the inhabitants com- mitted great excesses ; and it was not merely the lower order of people who were concerned in them, but many, otherwise respectable, house-keepers. All the American inhabitants wore pieces of crape round their arms, as mourning for the sailors killed in the action; and ducked under the pumps all who refused to comply with that mark of re- spect for their deceased countrymen. The Scotch people, however, held out firmly against their threats, and some were in consequence severely handled by the mob. The outrages went to such a length, that proscription lists were made out, and not only several Scotchmen, but many OUTRAGES AT CHARLESTON. 161 of the American federalists, who viewed the busi- ness more as an aggression on the part of the United States, than by England, were beset in their houses by the populace, and vengeance de- manded upon their heads. The reign of terror commenced, and self-appointed committees were deputed to wait on suspected persons. One mer- chant and his son barricadoed themselves in their house, while the rest of the family were employed in making cartridges. The populace surrounded their dwelling; but the gentleman and his son declared that, if they attempted to force the doors, they would immediately fire upon them. This violent ferment at length subsided: but the Scotchmen are of opinion, that if the Inten- dant of Charleston had not been a federalist, most of them would have been put to death. The conduct of one of them was, however, extremely reprehensible. He dressed a dog and a goal up in crape, to ridicule the people. They could not catch him for some time, as he kept within doors; hut one morning about six o'clock they knocked at his door, which being opened, they rushed in, dragged him into the street, and carried him to a pump, where they ducked him so unmercifully, that he took to his bed, and died in the course of the following month, it being then the commence- ment of the sickly season. While I remained in Charleston, there was con- VOL* II. M lG2 RIOTS AMONG THE SAILORS. siderable alarm on account of the depredations which were said to be committed by the sailors at night. There were upwards of one thousand in the city, who since the embargo had become very riotous, having no employ; and several were absolutely destitute of lodging and food, their landlords having turned them out after their money was gone. They paraded the streets several nights in large bodies, and the city guard was obliged to be strengthened. Some robberies were committed, and two or three negroes murdered, so that it became dangerous to be out at dark. The corporation at length published a proclama- tion, forbidding, under pain of imprisonment, any sailor to be out of his lodging-house after seven o'clock : they also advertised, that any sailor who was destitute of employment might go on board the Hornet sloop, and gun-boats belonging to the United States, where they should receive provi- sions, and be at liberty to quit the vessel when they chose. Not above sixteen accepted the offer, and several of them soon returned on shore again, in consequence of some smartjtoggings which they met with on board the Hornet. In the course of a week or two, the English Consul advertising that British seamen might have a free passage home in the British ships that were going to Eu- rope, upwards of four hundred availed themselves of the offer, and sailed for England. SERVANTS AT CHARLESTON. CHAPTER XXXII. Servants at Charleston Slaves Slave Trade Slave Merchants The Bargain Buyer Obser- vations upon the Slave Trade The Treatment of Africans Refined Cruelty People of Colour and Mulattoes Negro Characteristics Religi- ous Fanaticism Methodist Preachers pelted in their Pulpits Manners of the Negroes An Anecdote of a Negro and his Wife Their in- trepid Death Religion Service of the Episcopal Churches in the United States Methodist Meet- ings Marriages Funerals Novelty of an Un- dertaker's Profession in Charleston Charitable Societies Free-Masons. THERE are no white servants in Charleston. Every kind of work is performed by the negroes and people of colour. Those who are unable to give 500 or 600 dollars for a slave, which is the usual price of a good one, generally hire them, by the month or year, of people who are in the habit of keeping a number of slaves for that pur- pose. Many persons obtain a handsome living by letting out their slaves for 6 to 10 dollars per month. They also send them out to sell oysters, M 2 164 SLAVES. fruit, millinery, &c. ; or as carmen and porters. The slaves who are brought up to any trade or profession are let out as journeymen, and many of them are so extremely clever and expert, that they are considered worth two or three thousand dollars. The slaves in Charleston, employed as domestic servants, or mechanics, are mostly those born in the state; the new negroes from Africa being generally purchased for the plantations in the country. The former have more vices than the latter; and where they are living under persons who have only hired them, they are often lazy and impertinent, and give their employers a great deal of trouble. They conceive they are labour- ing only for strangers, and are careless in what manner they perform their work. In consequence of the troubles in St. Domingo, a great number of negroes and people of colour have been brought to Charleston by their masters and mistresses. Most of them have been sold to the Americans, or received their freedom. The women are di- stinguished from the rest by their coloured hand- kerchiefs tastily tied about their heads, the smart- ness of their dress, and long flowing shawls, or muslin handkerchiefs thrown carelessly over their shoulders d la Fran$oise. It appears by the estimate given in the preced- ing chapter, that the slaves, free negroes, and people of colour, are very numerous in South SLAVE-TRADE. l65 ' Carolina, yet are not equal to the number of white inhabitants of the whole state. But it is only in the low swampy parts of the country that they are wanted, and there they far outnumber the white population. In the city of Charleston, for instance^ their number amounts to 21 3 00O, and the whites only to 7,000. In the northern parts of the state very few slaves are to be found ; the farmers cultivate the ground themselves, with the assistance of their own families; but towards the sea coast it would be impossible for the whites to cultivate the swamps and marshes without the aid of negroes. The importation of Africans into the United States ceased by law on the 1st of January 1808 ; and several vessels which arrived with slaves after that period were seized, and their cargoes con- demned. For the four preceding years, however, the merchants had prepared for the abolition of the slave trade; and such large importations took place, that the market was completely glutted. The following are the N numbers imported into Charleston up to the 1st January 1808 : 1804 . . . 5,386 1805 ... 6,790 J8(>6 . . . 11,458 1807 . . . 15,6/6 l66 DEAD SLAVES UNBURIED. When I arrived the sales for slaves were ex- tremely dull, owing to the high price which the merchants demanded for them. The planters, who were pretty well stocked, were not very eager to purchase; and the merchants, knowing that a market would ultimately be found for them, were determined not to lower their demands: in con- sequence of which hundreds of these poor beings were obliged to be kept on board the ships, or in large buildings at Gadsden's wharf, for months to- gether. The merchants, for their own interest I suppose, had them properly attended to, and supplied with a sufficiency of provisions; but their clothing was very scanty, and some unusually sharp weather during the winter carried off great numbers of them. Close confinement and im- proper food also created a variety of disorders; which, together with the dysentery and some cu- taneous diseases to which the negroes are subject, considerably increased the mortality. Upwards of seven hundred died in less than three months, and carpenters were daily employed at the wharf in making shells for the dead bodies. A few years ago, when a similar mortality took place, the dead bodies of the negroes, to save expense, were thrown into the river, and even left to be devoured by the turkey buzzards; in consequence of which nobody would eat any fish, and it was upwards of three AUCTION OF SLAVES. months before the corporation put a stop to the practice. These losses, instead of abating the price, served only to increase it ; and many were put up at ven- due, where, according to their age, size, and con- dition, they sold for from three to six hundred dollars each. The auctioneers live all in one street near the water-side, in East Bay. They have ven- dues twice a-week, and the place is then like Babel : crowds of people bidding for dead and live stock, among which negroes and people of colour are constantly seen ; brokers praising the good qualities of their commodities, and knocking them down to the best bidder. One morning I had a o hearty laugh at the expense of a woman who had purchased a female slave at one of these auctions. The brokers are obliged to state the reason for selling the negroes, or give a bill of sale warranting them sound. The girl in question had been lately imported; and, as the auctioneer declared, it was intended to have shipped her off with several others for New Orleans : but that in her condition (point- ing to a certain protuberance in front) it was thought most advisable to put her up at vendue. The poor girl appeared to be about sixteen, seemed very unwell, and had no other covering than a dirty blanket. She was placed upon a table by the side of the auctioneer ; who frequently turned her round to the bidders, to show her make and 168 THE BARGAIN-BUYER. figure. He would also, at times, open her mouth and show her teeth, much in the same style as a jockey would exhibit the mouth of a horse for the inspection of his customers. From the manner in which he described her situation I really believed at first that she was in t\\e family ivay, a condition which always enhances the value of a slave : but on looking more earnestly at the girl the protu- berance seemed to be rather too high for such a state. One woman, however, who appeared very eager to purchase, outbid the rest, and gave 15O dollars for her, under the full persuasion that the girl was with child, and of course a great bargain at that, price. The auctioneer also assured her, that she had been sold for less than half her real value. The girl got down from the table with much difficulty, and the woman went with her into the auction-room (for the sales are made in the street before the door). She was eager to examine the quality of the commodity which she had bought ; when, to her infinite mortification, upon taking off the blanket she discovered that the girl instead of being with child had got the dropsy. She imme- diately wanted the auctioneer to take her back : but he was too keen, and declared that it was a just and fair sale; for thetruth of which he appealed to the by-standers. It was not his fault, he said, if the lady had been deceived by appearances ; it was too often the case : but he declared that he OBSERVATIONS ON THE SLAVE-TRADE. l6Q had stated her real situation, which was, that she was not in a condition to be sent on a long voyage, and he still maintained that that was the only de- fect she was soid for. " For any thing" says the auctioneer, "that I know to the contrary the girl may be with child, but the lady is certainly the lest Judge." All except the unfortunate purchaser laughed heartily at the trick. One advised her to send for Dr. De Bow immediately and have the girl tapped ; another was of opinion that she had better send for a carpenter to make a coffin ; and a third declared she was heartily glad the woman had been taken in, as she was always so fond of buying bar- gains ; and would be bound to say that she would not go to the expense of a dollar to save the girl's life. I quitted this traffic in human flesh with dis- gust ; though I could not refrain from laughing at the archness of the auctioneer, and the credulity of the bargain- buyer. In most countries people are fond of purchasing what they call bargains, vvhichj as Sterne says, is only the buying of a bad commodity that you don't want, because you can get it cheaper than a good one when you do ! A great deal has been said for and against sla- very ; and, as Sir Roger de Coverly observes, "it is a subject upon which much may be said on both sides." Those whose interests are affected by it 17O OBSERVATIONS ON THE SLAVE-TRADE. are of course its supporters ; and those who see it only with a philanthropic eye are its natural oppo- nents. In a political point of view we may now suppose that it is completely exploded by Great Britain and the United States. Whether the abolition of the slave-trade will continue, is at pre- sent doubtful ; for large supplies of Africans seem to be absolutely necessary for certain parts of the possessions of both nations. Neither the sugar plantations of the West Ipdies, nor the rice swamps, tobacco and eottori plantations of Vir- ginia, the Carolinas, and Georgia, can be culti- vated without them. The negro can, uncovered, stand the sun's meridian heat, and labour his appointed time, exposed to the continual steam which arises from low and swampy grounds, while a white man can barely support himself under the shade, surrounded by such a relaxing and un- healthy atmosphere. The negro can work for hours in mud and water, (which he is obliged to do in the cultivation of rice, in ditching and drain- ing) without injury to himself, whilst to a white this labour would be almost instant death. In fact, the Africans are now become as necessary in those parts of the world as beasts of burthen are to Europeans. It is to be lamented that the slave- trade was ever introduced ; for, had it not, the whites would have neglected the unhealthy spots which they now occupy, and have confined them- TREATMENT OF THE AFRICANS. selves to places more congenial to their constitu- tions. How many millions of acres in the world far superior in every respect to those parts where Africans are indispensable, are still covered with immeasurable forests that have never yet echoed to the stroke of the woodman's axe ! It were indeed to be wished that the present stock of Africans would answer the purpose of the planters by their domestic population, instead of rendering fresh importations requisite. It is na- tural to suppose that the planters would find it their interest to promote the health and comfort of their negroes for that purpose; and in many instances it is so, but others have too often af- forded proofs of a contrary disposition. The fla- grant abuses which have been committed on the African slaves have ultimately led to the melio- ration of their condition, and at length to the total abolition of the trade. The negroes appear to be formed for servitude, and require the strict but merciful hand of a master, otherwise they are apt to take unwarrantable liberties. If treated well, they are faithful and affectionate ; nor do I see how it can be the interest of the master to treat them otherwise: but a violent temper does not always study its own interest ; and we have unfor- tunately had too many instances of white people disgracing themselves by barbarities that would sully the character of a New Zealand savage. Even 172 REFINED CRUELTY. some of the ladies of Charleston, I am told, have been known to exercise the cowskin with consi- derable dexterity upon the naked backs of their slaves. I never had an opportunity of seeing one of those delicate instruments of flagellation called cow $ kins ; but from what I have heard I imagine it is of the same nature as that used by the Turks when they bastinade an offender ; though it is there distinguished by a very different name. One instance of refined cruelty 1 should have sincerely hoped, for the sake of humanity, had been false, or misrepresented, but I am sorry to say there is no reason to doubt its authenticity. A lady at Sul- livan's Island is said to have assisted her husband in whipping their negro to such a degree that his back was completely raw: not thinking he had been sufficiently punished, they applied a pickle of pepper and salt to his wounds, and the miserable wretch died a few hours after in the most excruciating tortures. What his offence was 1 know not, but nothing could justify such in- human treatment. I do not mention this fact as a reflection upon the Carolinian females ; on the contrary, they are in general extremely kind and tender to their slaves ; nor are the men by any means remarkable for severity, but are rather di- stinguished for their careful and humane treatment of their negroes. The penalty for killing a slave in South Caro- PEOPLE OF COLOUR. Una is, if in the heat of passion, 50/., and for pre- meditated murder 100/. For the last offence the murderer is rendered incapable of holding or re- ceiving the profits of any office, place, or emolu- ment, civil or military, within the state. The negroes, if guilty of murder or rebellion, are burnt to death ; and within these three or four years two have suffered that horrid punishment. For com- mon offences they are either flogged at home by their masters or mistresses, or sent to a place next the jail in Broad-street, called the Sugar House, where a man is employed to flog them at the rate of a shilling per dozen lashes. I was told that a lady once complained of the great expense she was at for flogging, and intended to contract with the man to flog her slaves by the year ! The mulattoes, or people of colour, are very numerous in Charleston. Many of them are free, but a much greater proportion are slaves. They are said to be more insolent and debauched than the negroes; which is perhaps owing to the know- ledge of their origin, and the liberties they conceive they are entitled to take. Many of the mulatto girls are handsome, and good figures. They are fond of dress, full of vanity, and generally dispense their favours very liberally to the whites. The negroes who are natives of Africa are often dull, stupid, and indolent. They are, however, in ge- neral more robust and capable of field labour than 174 NEGRO CHARACTERISTICS. those born in Carolina; and have less deceit and libertinism in their character. The negroes born in Carolina are much tinctured with European vices, particularly if they live in Charleston ; but they make the best servants, being well acquainted from their childhood with household duties, and the business of a plantation or farm. They have also a high opinion of themselves, and look with contempt upon the new Africans. I heard one of them observe, on seeing a drove of newly-imported negroes going out of Charleston to a plantation in the country C Ah I dey be poor devils, me fetch ten qfdem, ifmassa swap me" Free blacks are also a step above those who are in bondage, and nothing offends them more than to call them ne- groes. The steward of the Calliope, who was one of these, was highly offended with Captain Turner, who out of joke would frequently call him a damned negro. " Negur, massa /" says the steward, " me be no negur don't call me negur, massa." An old negro woman is called momma, which is a broad pronunciation of mama ; and a girl, missy. I once happened to call a young negro wench momma " me be no momma" says she, " me had no chil- dren yet." The negroes are also called by a va- riety of names ; and the catalogue of the heathen mythology of ancient heroes and demigods, of saints and martyrs, is ransacked for that purpose. Notwithstanding the vicious mode of fighting RELIGIOUS FANATICISM. common among the whites in the southern states of America, I always observed that the negroes boxed each other fairly ; and if any foul play hap- pened to take place, the negro by-standers would immediately interpose. The old negroes, both men and women, are very attentive to their religious duties ; and pews in the churches and chapels of Charleston are ap- propriated to their use. The majority of the ne- groes are Methodists, whose mode of worship seems to be a favourite with most of the blacks throughout the States. Unlike the American Indians, who are caught by the paraphernalia and mysterious ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion, the negroes receive with enthusiasm the pleasing doctrine of faith without works ; and if there is little religious ceremony in the service, its simplicity is amply compensated by the thun- dering anathemas of the preacher: this catches their attention, and in imitation of their more en- lightened white brethren) they often fall down in divine ecstasies, crying, shouting, bawling, and beating their breats, until they are ready to faint. Much of this extravagance is now done away, at least in Charleston, since some of the most vehe- ment of the Methodist preachers were obliged to decamp, lest the meeting-houses should be pulled down upon them. Several were pelted and drag- ged out of their pulpits by some young men of the 176 ANECDOTE OF A NEGRO AND HIS WIFE. town in the very middle of their horrid denunci* ations, and the frantic gestures of their deluded congregation. These violences were winked at by the municipality, as it was found that tiie absurd doctrines broached by those fanatical preachers did much injury to the slaves. Calm, dispassionate re- ligion, of whatever denomination it may be, has never been withheld from the negroes, but rather encouraged, and in general they are very orderly and devout in their demeanour on Sundays. The free negroes and people of colour are then dressed out in their best, and feel exalted as much above the slaves as the whites do above them. They pull off their hats, bow, scrape, and curtsey to each other, and the younger part seem to treat their elders with much respect and attention. The meeting-houses are crowded with all colours, and many of the slaves frequently sit on the steps out- side the door. Where the Africans are well treated longevity is no stranger to their race. Several have lived to 80, 90, and 100 years; and in 1805 a negro woman died in Pennsylvania at the age of Il6. I shall close this notice of the negroes of South Carolina with a remarkable instance of inviolable affection and heroic courage, evinced in the con- duct of a negro and his wife, who had been recently imported from Africa; and which took place while I was in Charleston. They had been separated and ANECDOTE OF A NEGRO AND HIS WIFE. 177 sold to two different persons in the city ; the man to major R , and the woman to Mrs. D'A- . For a few months they resided in Charleston ; and the major had often allowed the man to visit his wife, which in some measure reconciled them to their separation. But his master, wishing to em- ploy him on his plantation in the country, gave orders for his being sent away. The negro no sooner learnt his destiny than he became despe- rate, and determined upon as bold a scheme as the rnind of man could conceive, and one that might vie with the far-famed resolution of the Roman Arria. He obtained leave of his master, on the evening previous to his departure, to take a last farewell of his wife. I know not what passed at such an affecting interview ; but it is supposed that lie prevailed on her to die with him rather than be separated from each other, and obliged to pass their lives in miserable slavery ; for the next morning they were both found dead, having strangled themselves with ropes. The hands of both were at liberty, so that there is no room to suppose that either had not consented to die. The Charleston papers represented this transaction in a very different light, being fearful of the conse- quences of such an example among the negroes ; who, whatever their oppressors may say to the contrary, have proved in innumerable instances VOL. II. N 178 RELIGION, that they are occasionally possessed of feelings as sensitive and acute as their white brethren. Religious toleration is allowed in its fullest ex- tent in South Carolina, as well as in every other state of the Union ; and people of every sect and form of worship are admitted to a share of the government. Formerly the protestant church of England was the most predominant religion in the state ; but at present the independents, presbyte- rians, and baptists are supposed to be the most nu- merous. A bishop was at the head of the episcopal church a few years ago, but since his decease the vacancy has not been filled up. A large circular building, called the Independent Meeting, has within these few years been built in Meeting- street. The mode of worship nearly resembles that of the Scotch church ; and the chapel is fre- quented by many of the rich and respectable fa- milies of the city; several of whom have also pews in the episcopal churches. The clergyman whom I heard in that chapel delivered a most excellent discourse, partly extempore, and though it had somewhat of the evangelical turn of expression, it was delivered in mild, moderate, and elegant language. The congregation sang without the assistance of an organ ; and their voices harmo- nized more agreeably than the baptists and me- thodists. METHODIST MEETINGS. 179 The service in the episcopal churches of the United States is the same as that of England, except in such parts as have been accommodated to the reigning government. Instead of His Ma- jesty, the Royal Family, the Nobility, and Parlia- ment; they pray for the President, the Senate, and House of Representatives of the United States. St. Athanasius's creed is omitted ; and some slight alterations have been made in the text of the com- mon prayer. The churches, chapels, and meet- ings of Charleston are, in general, well attended ; and during divine service few people are seen in, the streets. The young men, however, are fond * * of posting themselves near a church porch, before and after service, in order to admire the girls, who afford the amorous youths few opportunities of seeing their elegant forms in the street on other days. Some of the methodists are in the habit of having meetings twice a-week at their own houses. In the street where I resided for some time a me- thodist woman lived within a few doors of our house ; and twice a- week, from six to nine o'clock in the evening, she used to collect a small congre- gation, for the purpose of praying and singing. There would have been nothing irregular or improper in such meetings, had they confined their devotion to themselves; but they actually disturbed the neighbourhood : for according as N 2 t0 MARRIAGES AND FUNERALS. they happened ta be inspired, they would rise up and bellow out such thundering imprecations upon their own wickedness, that a mob usually collected round the house. They took care, how- ever, to have the window-shutters closed. I have frequently heard the woman of the house uttering the most blasphemous language, crying, howling, and groaning, while one of the brethren continued praying ; and as the man increased his voice, she increased her bowlings, 'in which the rest of the company frequently joined. When that was over, they would grow a little calmer, and sing hymns; after which they would finish their evening's de- votion with a fulminating threat against all who refused to participate in the doctrine of faith with- out works. The woman of the house, however, was determined that works should precede faith ; for she frequently flogged her slaves before she went to prayers, as a kind of prologue to the even- ing's entertainments. Marriages are solemnized by clergymen of all persuasions ; as they are, also, by justices of the peace. The latter incur a fine of 1OO/. currency for so doing; but it has never been enforced against them. Licenses for marriage are more formal than necessary ; for, as there is no law directing such a license to be first obtained, a marriage is equally lawful without it. Funerals are conducted much in the same style CHARITABLE SOCIETIES. 181 as at New York, except that in Charleston the women attend. I have seen two or three hundred men, women, and children, walking arm in arm, in pairs. The corpse is placed on a sort of hearse, or rather cart, and covered with a pall, above which is a roof supported by four pillars ; the whole is very mean, and drawn by only one horse, driven by a negro shabbily dressed. The relations, or particular friends, wear mourning, with crape hat- bands and scarfs ; the rest of the company are in coloured clothes. Previous to setting out, refresh- ment is served round, and sprigs of rosemary or lavender are given to each. The negroes imitate the whites in their funerals, and it is curious to see a negro parson and clerk attending them. The bells never toll in Charleston at funerals. A few months before the yellow fever raged in that city, in 1807, an undertaker made his appearance, which was so great a novelty to the inhabitants that he was obliged to explain what was meant by the term undertaker in an advertisement. Before t this carpenters were employed toknock up a coffin, and the deceased's friends were obliged to provide every necessary for the funeral, either at their own houses or at different shops. Military funerals are conducted with much parade and ceremony. The charitable societies in Charleston, besides the Orphan-house, are the South Carolina Society, St, Andrew's, Fellowship, German Friendly, Me- 182 FREE MASONS. chanic, Mount Sion, Hibernian, Gemiloth Hasa- din, and Free Masons. The grand lodge of the latter is self-constituted, and threw off the yoke of the grand lodge of England. It does not pos- sess a fund of more than a thousand dollars, and its charitable donations are but small. A remarkable proposition was once made in this lodge, that all its members should profess Christianity ; it was, however, over- ruled ; nor indeed could it have been admitted, as free-masonry was established with a view to embrace every denomination of re- ligion in the world. Several of the new lodges in the United States are said to have degenerated from the pure principles of free-masonry, and too apt to be influenced by politics. LEGISLATURE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 183 CHAPTER XXXIII. Legislature of South Carolina City of Columbia Revenue Expenses of the City of Charleston Taxes Courts of Law Curious Trial Portraits of Washington and Hamilton more saleable than those of Jefferson Review on Charleston Race Ground Militia of South Carolina Volunteer Corps of Charleston Field-day Military Force of the United States badly disciplined Satire upon American Dis- cipline A Militia Muster. THE legislative authority of South Carolina is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a se- nate and house of representatives. The executive authority is vested in a governor and lieutenant- governor, who are chosen by the general assembly to continue in office for two years ; and they are not eligible again until the term of four years after they have served in that capacity. The judi- cial power is vested in such superior and inferior courts of law and equity as the legislature may from time to time direct and establish. At present the courts of this state consist of a court of sessions and common pleas for each district in the state, 154 COURTS. CITY OF COLUMBIA. which are held twice a year. These courts are courts of record ; possessing complete, original, and final jurisdiction, in all cases touching the causes and pleas concerning them ; except as it may be altered by law, arid in points of practice by the rules of court. In Charleston, a court hits lately been established, called the Inferior City Court, for the purpose of hearing and determin- ing ail causes of a civil nature arising within the limits of the city, and for the trial of all offences against the by-laws of the same. In the year 17$9 the seat of government was removed from the city of Charleston to Colum- bia; and with it all the public records, excepting those relating to property, within the districts of Charleston, Georgetown, and Beaufort. But for the greater conveniency of the citizens in the upper and lower parts of the State, the offices attached to government were divided in such a O manner, that the treasury, the office of state, and the surveyor-general's office were to have each an office at Columbia and Charleston ; the heads of those departments residing at one place, and their deputies at the other. Columbia, now the seat of government in South Carolina, is situated just below the confluence of the Broad and Saluda rivers on the eastern side of the C ngaree River, about 1 1 5 miles from Charles- ton. The town is laid off by a regular plan, its 1OLICE OF CHARLESTON. 185 streets intersecting each other at right angles. The buildings are erected about three quarters of a mile from the Congaree, on a ridge of high land, near 300 feet above the level of the river, from which a delightful prospect is presented. Here the state- house, situated on a beautiful eminence, is to be seen, at the distance of many miles, from various parts of the country. Columbia consists of about 150 houses, and during the sittings of the legislature, assumes a gay appearance. At other times a calmness and quiet prevail, far dif- ferent from the noise and bustle which might be expected in the capital of a State. This tranquil- lity is, however, sometimes roused into active business by the arrival of loaded waggons from the upper country. Vineyards, cotton, and hemp plantations are successfully cultivated in the neigh- bourhood of Columbia ; and oil-mills, rope-walks, and some other manufactories have been esta- blished in the town. In the year 1J83 Charleston was incorporated by an act of the legislature, and called the city of Charleston. It was then divided into thirteen wards, each of which annually choose a warden by ballot ; and from the whole of the wardens so chosen an intendant is afterwards elected by the citizens. These form a council for the government of the city, by whom all ordinances are passed for its regulation. Its police is enforced by a city ] 86 TAXES IN SOUTH CAROLINA. guard, under the command of a captain and other officers ; and with the incorporation of the city, additional taxes are laid on its inhabitants for supporting the expense of the same, amounting annually to not less than 60,000 dollars. Besides the expenses of the city, state taxes are imposed for the support of the government, the annual expense of which is about 100,000 dollars. This sum is raised by a tax on property of one and a half per cent., on carnages and negroes, the latter of which are taxed at the rate of one dollar and a half each. Free negroes and people of colour pay something more. Houses and land are repeatedly advertised to be sold for paying the taxes ; and long lists are published in the papers as having been seized by the sheriff. All absent persons entitled to any taxable property or estate, in South Carolina, (excepting such as are sent abroad in the government service, until one year after the expiration of their commissions ; or young men sent abroad for education, until attain- ing the age of twenty-three years,) are double taxed ; because, as the State receives no benefit from their services at home, it is supposed but reasonable it should receive some compensation for protecting their estates while absent; and also because it tends to discourage long residences of the citizens abroad. Sums of money at interest, actually received, over and above what each person COURTS OF LAW. ISJ pays on account of interest, (except when such interest is received by any widow, orphan, or un- married woman, having no other means of liveli- hood,) are assessed at the rate of a quarter dollar on every hundred dollars which shall have pro- duced an interest of seven per cent. Upon sales at public auction, a tax of one per cent, on all ships' boats or other vessels ; lands, houses, and slaves ; and three per cent, on all horses, cattle, goods, wares, and merchandizes, is imposed. Hawkers and pedlars pay a tax of 250 dollars for a license to sell goods, wares, and merchandize in any part of the State. Theatrical performers pay 428 dollars and a half for every license granted in the city of Charleston, and 107 dollars 14 cents for every license granted elsewhere in the State. The laws are similar to those of Great Britain ; but the right of primogeniture has been abolished, and real and personal estates now descend, in cases of intestacy, by more equitable distributions. The power, however, of individuals in making wills remains the same as before. Bankrupts and in- solvent debtors are never deprived of their liberty when they faithfully deliver up all their effects to their creditors. I was present at the hearing of two causes in Charleston, in which there appeared to be some- thing more than partiality in the administration of justice. One was a case in which the owner 188 COURTS OF LAW. of a slave-ship refused to pay the sailors their wages after a twelvemonths' voyage, because the ship was seized on her arrival in port. The judge gave it in favour of the owner, and strong su- spicions were entertained that he had heen in- fluenced by a pecuniary consideration. The de- cision, however, caused so much dissatisfaction, and appeared so unjust, that a young counsellor took the sailors' cause in hand, and moved for a new trial ; which being granted, the sailors gained their suit. Some of them had upwards of 300 dollars to receive. The other cause was the trial of a man for attempting to commit a rape. The jury found him guilty; but he was pardoned be- fore he was brought up to receive sentence. The present Attorney. general is said to be a sensible and learned man ; but I never heard a worse orator in any court. The other barristers are all young men, and two or three of them are excellent speakers. I have often admired in the courts of law of the United States, the frequent references which the counsellors continually make to English law cases, at the same time that one half of the nation is railing against every thing that is English ; and in Pennsylvania some vio- lent democrats absolutely entered into a resolution to prohibit their barristers from quoting any cases from English law books, or referring, in any of their pleadings, to English precedents. This sple- CURIOUS TRIAL. 189 netic resolution was, however, overruled by the district judge of Pennsylvania. Our law book- sellers must export very largely to the United States, where lawyers are so numerous ; most of the young men of genteel families being brought up to that profession. A curious trial took place at Philadelphia, while I remained in the States, between two print- sellers, Day and Jarvis, respecting an exchange of Jefferson's portraits for those of Washington. Jarvis had agreed, at the request of Day, to give fifty of Washington's portraits for fifty of Jeffer- son's; but finding how much the latter had de- preciated and fallen in the public estimation, he sent only twenty-five Washingtons for the fifty Jeffersons which he had received. The other remonstrated, and even offered to take twenty- five Harniltons in lieu; but this was refused, as the portraits of General Hamilton were nearly as valuable as those of Washington, they selling for five and six dollars each, while the Jeffersons could hardly find a sale at half a dollar each. The judge said, that the jury were not to look at the value of the prints, but to the contract : upon which a verdict was given for the plaintiff, da- mages 1 18^- dollars. The militia of South Carolina is divided into two divisions, each commanded by a Major-ge- nera!. These divisions comprehend nine brigades, 1J1Q VOLUNTEER CORPS. thiity-nine regiments of infantry, eiglit regiments and a squadron of cavalry, and one regiment and a battalion of artillery, besides artillery companies which are attached to some of the regiments of infantry. The brigades are commanded by as many Brigadier-generals; and the regiments are commanded by Lieutenant- colonels. The Go- vernor is commander-in-chief of all the militia of the State, both by sea and land. Every able-bodied white male citizen, between the age of eighteen and forty-five, is enrolled in the militia, and free people of colour are enrolled as pioneers. One third of the militia may be marched out of the State by order of the executive of the United States, on particular emergencies, and under certain conditions; and treated in every respect the same as the regular troops, except that in cases of court-martial the court is to be selected from the militia of the State. Officers rise by seniority; and no election exists except in the first appointment of subaltern. The number of effective mititia in South Carolina is about 40,OOO, of whom 2,000 are cavalry. In Charleston, the inhabitants have formed themselves into volunteer corps, armed and clothed at their own expense. One half consists of cavalry and artillery. The uniform of the latter is a long blue coat, with red facings, and large cocked hat and red feather ; it has a heavy appearance, and . CAROLINA MILITIA REVIEW. is but ill adapted to such a corps, whose chief perfection is in celerity of movement. The little company of Jews wear a similar dress, which, with their peculiarity of features, renders them gro- tesque-looking soldiers. I was present at a review, on the race-ground, of the different corps, and the new levy of militia, forming a part of the 100,000 men ordered by Congress to hold themselves in readiness for the defence of the country. They appeared to be very ill disciplined, and the new levy, which mustered about 1,OOO men, was out of uniform, and had no other arms than their own rifles or fowling-pieces. The volunteer compa- nies were dressed in a variety of uniforms, and made a respectable appearance. The emblem upon Lhe colours of the artillery corps was apt enough to the situation of the country at the period of the revolution: it was an artilleryman standing by the side of a cannon, and a serpent upon the ground near his feet, looking up in the man's face, with the motto, "Dorit tread on me? The militia in the United States is for the most part badly disciplined. In the towns, some show of a military force is kept up by the volunteers, who are fond of captivating the ladies with their smart uniforms and nodding plumes; but through- out the country places the militia meet only to eat, drink, and be merry. I met with an excel- lent satire upon one of these meetings while I was AMERICAN SATIRE ON THE MILITIA. at Charleston. As it may afford my readers some amusement, I have taken the liberty to lay it be- fore them. " I happened not long since to be present at the muster of a captain's company, in a remote part of one of the counties ; and as no general description could convey an adequate idea of the achievements of that day, I must be permitted to go a little into the detail, as well as my recollection will serve me. The men had been notified to meet at nine o'clock, c armed and equipped as the law directs,' that is to say, with a gun and cartonch box at least; but as directed by the law of the United States, * with a good firelock, a sufficient bayonet and belt, and pouch with a box to con- tain not less than twenty-four sufficient cartridges of powder and ball.* At twelve o'clock about one- third, perhaps half, the men had collected ; and an inspector's return of the number present would have stood nearly thus: one captain, one lieutenant, ensign none, Serjeants two, corporals none, drum- mers none, fifers none, privates present 25, ditto absent 30, guns 15, gunlocks 12, ramrods 10, rifle pouches three, bayonets none* belts none, spare flints none, cartridges none, horsewhips, walking canes, and umbrellas, tivenly-tuuo. " A little before one o'clock, the captain, whom J shall distinguish by the name of Clodpole, gave directions for forming the line of parade. In A MILITIA MUSTER. 1Q3 obedience to this order, one of the Serjeants, the strength of whose lungs had long supplied the place of a drum and fife, placed himself in front of the house, and began to hawl with great vehe- mence, f All Captain Clodpole's company to pa- rade there ! come, gentlemen, parade here ! parade here!' says he, ' and all you that hasn't guns, fall into the lower eendS He might have bawled till this time, with as little success as the Syrens sung to Ulysses, had he not changed his post to a neighbouring shade; there he was immediately joined by all who were then at leisure, the others were at that time engaged either as parties or spectators at a game of fives, and could not just then attend : however, in less than half an hour the game was finished, and the captain was enabled to form his company, and proceed in the duties of the day. "Look to the right and dress! "They were soon, by the help of the non-com- missioned officers, placed in a straight line ; but as every man was anxious to see how the rest stood, those on the wings pressed forward for that purpose, till the whole line assumed nearly the form of a crescent. " Whew! look at 'em!" says the captain: "why, gentlemen, you are all crooking here at both eends, so that you will get on to me by and by : come, gentlemen, dress! dress! VOL. II. O 194 A MILITIA MUSTER. "This was accordingly done; but impelled by tbe same motive as before, they soon resumed their former figure, and so they were permitted to remain. " Now, gentlemen," says the captain, " I am going to carry you through the revolutions of the manual exercise, and I want you, gentlemen, if you please, to pay every particular attention to the word of command, just exactly as I give it out to you. I hope you will have a little patience, gentlemen, if you please, and I'll be as short as possible ; and if I should be a-going wrong, I will be much obliged to any of you, gentlemen, to put me right again, for I mean all for the best, and I hope you will excuse me if you please. And one thing, gentlemen, I must caution you against, in particular, and that is this, not to make any mistakes if you can possibly help it, and the best way to do this, will be to do all the motions right at first, and that will help us to get along so much the faster, and I will try to have it over as soon as possible. Come, boys, come to a shoulder. 16 Poise foolk! ft Cock foolk / Very handsomely done. " Take aim! " Ram down cartridge! No ! No ! Fire. I recollect now, that firing comes next after taking aim, according to Steuben; but with your permis- A MILITIA MUSTER. 195 sion, gentlemen, 1*11 read the words of command just exactly as they are printed in the book, and then I shall be sure to be right. ' O yes! read it, Captain, read it,* exclaimed twenty voices at once, 4 that will save time.' " 'Tention the whole then: please to observe, gentlemen, that at the word fire! you must fire; that is, if any of your guns are loadeji'd, you must not shoot in y earnest, but only make pretence like; and all you gentlemen fellow-soldiers, who's armed with nothing but sticks, and riding switches, and corn stalks, needn't go through the firings, but stand as you are, and keep yourselves to your- selves. " Half cock fo oik! Very well done. " S, h, u, t, (spelling) shet pan /That too would have been very handsomely done, if you hadn't have handled the cartridge instead ; but I suppose you wasn't noticing. Now, 'tention one and all, gentlemen, and do that motion again. " Shet pan! Very good, very well indeed, you did that motion equal to any old soldiers ; you improve astonishingly. " Handle cartridge! Pretty well, considering you done it wrong eend foremost, as if you took the cartridge out of your mouth, and bit off the twist with the cartridge box. "Draw rammer! Those who have no ram- mers to their guns need not draw, but only make 02 196 A MILITIA MUSTER. the motion; it will do just as well, and save a great deal of time. "Return rammer! Very well again But that would have been done, I think, with greater ex- pertness, if you had performed the motion with a little more dexterity. " Shoulder foolk ! Very handsomely done, in. deed, if you had only brought the foolk to the other shoulder, gentlemen. Do that motion again, gentlemen, and bring the foolk up to the left shoulder. " Shoulder foolk ! Very good. " Order foolk! Not quite so well, gentlemen ; not quite all together : but perhaps I did not speak loud enough for you to hear me all at once; try once more if you please ; I hope you will be patient, gentlemen, we will soon be through. " Order foolk! Handsomely done, gentlemen! very handsomely done ! and all together too, ex- cept that a few of you were a leetle too soon, and some others a leetle too late. " In laying down your guns, gentlemen, take care to lay the locks up, and the other sides down. "'Tention the whole! Ground foolk /Very well. - stop stay no! ^halt! no, no! 'faith I'm wrong! I'm wrong! I turned over two leaves at once. But I beg your pardon, gentlemen, we will not stay out long; and we'll have somethin g to drink as soon as we've done. Come, boys, get up off" the stumps and logs, and take up your guns, and we'll soon be done; excuse me if you please. " Fix bagonet / ^ ^Advance arms! -Very well done, turn the stocks of your guns in front, gentlemen, and that will bring the barrels behind; and hold them straight up and down if you please. Let go with your left hand, and take hold with your right just below the guard. Steuben says the gun must be held up p, e, r, periicidar: yes you must always mind and hold your guns very pertioular. Now, boys, 'tention the whole ! "Present arms! Very handsomely done! only hold your guns over the other knee, and the other hand up, turn your guns round a leetle, and raise 198 A MILITIA MUSTER. them up higher, draw the other foot back ! Now you are nearly right. Very well done, gentlemen ; you have improved vastly since I first saw you : you are getting too slick. What a charming thing it is to see men under good discipline! Now, gentlemen, we are come to the revolutions : but Lord, men, how did you get into such a higglety- pigglety r" " The fact was, the shade had moved considera- bly to the eastward, and had exposed the right wing of these hardy veterans to a galling fire of the sun. Being but poorly provided with umbrellas at this end of the line, they found it convenient to follow the shade, and in huddling to the left for this purpose, they had changed the figure of their line from that of a crescent to one which more nearly resembled a pair of pothooks. " Come, gentlemen," says the captain, " spread yourselves out again into a straight line, and let us get into the wheelings and other matters as soon as possible." "But this was strenuously opposed by the sol- diers. They objected to going into these revolutions at all, inasmuch as the weather was extremely hot, and they had already been kept in the field up- wards of three quarters of an hour. They re- minded the captain of his repeated promise to be as short as he possibly could, and it was clear he qould dispense with all this same wheeling and A MILITIA MUSTER. 199 flourishing if he chose. They were already very thirsty, and if he would not dismiss them, they declared they would go off without dismission, and get something to drink ; and he might fine them if that would do him any good ; they were able to pay their fine, but could not go without drink to please any body ; and they swore they would never vote for another captain who wished to be so unreasonably strict. " The captain behaved with great spirit upon this occasion, and a smart colloquy ensued; when at length, becoming exasperated to the last de- gree, he roundly asserted, that no soldier ought ever to think hard of the orders of his officer; and finally he went as far as to say, that he did not think any gentleman on that ground had any just cause to be offended with him. The dispute was at length settled by the captain's sending for some grog, for their present accommodation, and agree- ing to omit reading the military law, as directed by a late act, and also all the military manceuvres, except two or three such easy and simple ones as could be performed within the compass of the shade. After they had drunk their grog, and " spread themselves," they were divided into platoons. "'Tention the whole! To the right wheel/" Each man faced to the right about. "Why, gentlemen, I didn't mean for every man 200 A MILITIA MUSTER. to stand still and turn nay tur ally right round ; but when 1 told you to wheel to the right, I in- tended for you to wheel round to the right as it were. Please to try that again, gentlemen ; every right hand man must stand fast, and only the others turn round." " In a previous part of the exercise, it had, for the purpose of sizing them, been necessary to de- nominate every second person a " right hand man." A very natural consequence was, that on the present occasion those right hand men main- tained their position, and all the intermediate ones faced about as before. " Why look at 'em now!" exclaimed the captain in extreme vexation. " Til be d d if you can understand a word I say. Excuse me, gentlemen, but it rayly seems as if you couldn't come at it exactly. In wheeling to the right, the right hand eend of the platoon stands fast, and the othA eend comes round like a swingle tree. Those on the outside must march faster than those on the inside, and those on the inside not near so fast as those on the outside. You certainly must un- derstand me now, gentlemen ; and now please to try once more." " In this they were a little more successful. " Very well, gentlemen; very well indeed: and now, gentlemen, at the word wheel to the left, you must wheel to the left. A MILITIA MUSTER, 201 ' " "'Tention the whole! To the left left no right that is the left 1 mean the right left, wheel / march f" In this he was strictly obeyed; some wheeling to the right, some to the left, and some to the right, left, or both ways. "Stop! halt! let us try again! I could not just then tell my right hand from my left; you must excuse me, gentlemen, if you please; ex- perience makes- perfect, as the saying is ; long as I've served, I rind something new to learn every day, but all's one for that: now, gentlemen, do that motion once more." u By the help of a non-commissioned officer in front of each platoon, they wheeled this time with considerable regularity. " Now, boys, you must try to wheel by divi- sions, and there is one thing in particular which I have to request of you, gentlemen, and it is this, not to make any blunder in your wheeling. You must mind and keep at a wheeling distance; and not talk in the ranks, nor get out of fix again ; for I want you to do this motion well, and not make any blunder now. " 'Tention the whole! By divisions! to the right wheel ! march /" " In doing this, it seemed as if Bedlam had broke loose ; every man took the command " Not so fast on the right ! Kow now ! ho\v 202 A MILITIA MUSTER. now! Haul down those umbrellas! Faster tm- the left! Keep back a little in the middle there Don't crowd so Hold up your gun, Sam Go faster there! Faster! Who trod on me? D n your htiffs, keep back ! keep back ! Stop us, captain, do stop us Go faster there I 've lost my shoe Get up again Ned, halt ! halt! halt! Stop, gentlemen! stop! stop! " By this time they got into utter and inexpli- cable confusion, and so I left them/' ARTS, SCIENCES, AND LITERATURE. 203 CHAPTER XXXIV. Arts> Sciences, and Literature of South Carolina Newspapers- Incomes of the Planters Houses Productions of the Soil Implements of Hus- bandry Waggons Sledges Grasses Pas- ture Lands Manufactures Gunpowder Grist Mills Manufactories of Cordage Commerce of South Carolina Neutral Trade Conduct of the Belligerents Exports from Charleston. ARTS, sciences, and literature receive but little encouragement in South Carolina. The sports of the field, the pleasures of the bottle, and the conviviality of the table, have more charms for a Carolinian than philosophical inquiries or the study of the Belles Lettres; yet some few have distinguished themselves as writers upon the local or general history of the country, and the revolutionary war. Among the most recent are Dr. Ramsay and Governor Drayton. To the latter gentleman I am indebted for much of the information I have obtained concerning the climate and diseases, agriculture, and manufactures of that state. There are three newspapers published daily in 204 NEWSPAPERS. ADVERTISEMENTS. Charleston. The City Gazette and the Courier are morning papers, but of totally opposite poli- tical principles. The former is violently demo- cratic, and the latter as violently federal. Each, of course, favours the French or English nations as best suits with their pot-Hid : and, like other party papers in the States, they copy only those paragraphs from foreign papers which tell well on their own side. The Times is an afternoon paper, and in politics adopts a medium between the two others. It copies impartially from the English and French papers; and the editor seldom troubles the public with any political disquisition of his own. All the papers are well stocked with advertisements; among which prime Congo, Gam- bia and Angola slaves for sale at Gadsden's wharf, were very conspicuous before the abolition of that inhuman traffic ; at present runaway negroes, auctions, stores, and'sheriff's sales, fill up most of the columns, and, with long fulsome paragraphs in praise of the dead, leave but little space for the news of the day. Advertisements are often drawn up in a ludicrous style; and rewards offered for lost or stolen property that are not likely to faci- litate their recovery. One cent reward is some- times offered to those who will apprehend a negro fellow, or wench, that has absconded from a plan- tation ; and I once saw a reward of thirty -nine lashes offered for the recovery of a pair of saddle- DIVISIONS OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 205 bags which had been stolen off a horse ; and that " any d d rascal who stole them, and would return the same to Thomas Stokes, should receive the above reward!" South Carolina may be divided into lower, middle, and upper country ; for the soil, produc- tions, and political ceconomy of the inhabitants of those divisions exhibit considerable variation and diversity of character. The lower country, rising gradually from the sea shore to a ridge of sand- hills, about sixty miles back, is distinguished by its level surface, its inlets, creeks, marshes, and islands ; its swamps, bays, and pine barrens. The middle country, commencing at the sand hills, is in general barren and unproductive; but in the neigh- bourhood of large rivers the soil is of excellent qua- lity. The upper country commences from the hills of Santee, and the falls of the river. It is distin- guished by its rising grounds, loose stones, beds of rock, and towards the extremity of the state by enormous mountains. The soil of this division is in general good, but requires much labour and in- dustry in its cultivation. As there are few or no slaves in this part of the state,the business devolves almost entirely upon the farmer and his family, who thus approach nearer in their manners to the inhabitants of the New England States than the planters and farmers of the middle and lower country. 206 INCOMES OF THE PLANTERS. Land is originally holden by grant, signed by the respective governors of the state, under seal of the same, conveying an estate of inheritance in free and common soccage ; and is attended with no other expense on obtaining the grant than the payment of certain small fees of office. It is in. herited by the laws of this state in equal shares, amongst all of the same degree ; and if sold, is conveyed by lease and release, feoffment with de- livery, or by simple deed, according to a late act of the legislature passed for that purpose. Few lands are holden on lease ; or, if they be, the leases are for short terms and on liberal conditions, and in general the lands are possessed and tilled by the rightful owners of the soil. The incomes of the planters and farmers are various, ranging from 80,000 to 40 dollars. Very few, however, receive incomes of the magnitude of the former sum. Many receive from 12,000 to 20,OOO dollars per annum ; but the majority of the planters are only in the annual receipt of from 3,000 to 6,000 dollars. The estates of these latter may be worth from twenty to forty thousand dollars. The farmers are on a smaller scale ; and their incomes may be said to range between 2,OOO and 40 dollars. The best lands in South Carolina, which are tide-swamps, if cultivated, have sold for 170 dollars per acre. In general, however, they sell from 70 to 90 dollars an acre, on a credit of HOUSES. 207 one or two years. Uncultivated tide land sells pro- portionately lower. Inland swamps, if cultivated, sell at prices between 20 and 50 dollars per acre. Good cotton land has sold in Beaufort district as high as 60 dollars per acre ; its value, however, in general, in different parts of the state, is from six to forty dollars ; the price depending much on its situation, as that nearest the sea, for instance, is considered the most valuable, and produces the finest cotton. Other high lands sell from one to six dollars an acre, according to their respective situations and conveniences for navigation. The buildings are as various as the value of estates, ranging in value between 30,000 and 20 dollars. They are commonly built of wood: some, however, are constructed of brick ; though they are principally in the cities and towns. Of late years building has been carried on with spirit throughout the state ; and houses of brick and wood erected suitable to the improvement of the manners and comforts of society. The houses are, for the most part, built of one or two stories, according to the taste and abilities of the owner. One peculiarity, however, may be remarked re- specting them, which is, that piazzas are gene- rally attached to their southern front, as well for the convenience of walking therein during the day, as for preventing the sun's too great influence on the interior of the house ; and the out-offices 208 RICE, INDIGO, COTTON. and kitchens are rarely connected with the prin- cipal dwelling, being placed at a distance from it of thirty or forty yards* The houses of the poorest sort of people are made of logs, let into each other at the ends, and their interstices filled up with IDOSS, straw, and clay. The roofs are covered with clap boards. Their plan is simple, as they consist of only one or two rooms; and the manners of their tenants are equally plain. In the lower country cotton and rice are culti- vated largely for sale ; while Indian corn, cow- peas, and long potatoes, are only planted sufficient for the yearly consumption of the settlement ; and on many of the tide-swamp rice plantations no provisions but potatoes are planted, their produce being only equal to the support of the plantation for a few months. The rest is supplied by the purchase of Indian corn, brought down the rivers from the middle parts of the state, and also im- ported from some of the United States. In the middle country cotton and Indian corn are principally raised for sale : and the produce of all kinds of grain is so abundant, that there is no want of provision for the support of life. In the upper country tobacco is the principal object for sale ; and its inhabitants have lately turned their attention towards the raising of cotton with good prospects of success : wheat and hemp are also raised there for sale ; together with horses and IMPLEMENTS OF HUSBANDRY. 209 Stock of different kinds. Flax is cultivated for the convenience of family concerns. In some parts of the upper country stones and rocks are met with on the summit of ridges ; hut the lands in culture are seldom so much troubled with them as to ren- der it necessary either to collect them in heaps, or afford materials for building stone walls ; the inclosures are therefore generally made of split rails, which being placed on each other in an an- gular manner, constitute what is called a worm fence. In the middle and lower parts of South Carolina the soil is free from rocks and stones, and consists chiefly of swamps, sands, and clay, with a slight intermixture of gravel at intervals. The implements of husbandry used in South Carolina are few and simple : they consist of va- rious ploughs, such as the bar-share, shovel, fluke^ single coulter, cutter and drill ; harrows, hoes, spades, waggons, carts, and sledges. Ploughs are chiefly used in the middle and upper country, where labourers are few, and the soil tenacious and stubborn. In the lower country they are but partially used, although the planters would pro- bably find it their interest to adopt them more generally. In some cases they cultivate a cottoa and Indian-corn crop by the plough ; but they are oftener done with the hoe, which may be con- sidered as the principal instrument of husbandry in the lower country. The spade is used chiefly VOL, II. P 1210 WAGGONS SLEDGES HAY. for ditching and draining the rice lands ; but the hoe is used for cultivating them. In some tide and inland plantations, however, where the ground is strong, and has been kept sufficiently dry, ploughs are used wih g? eat advantage. Waggons and sledges are principally used in the middle and upper country ; the first for trans- porting heavy articles to a distance, and the last for drawing wood, rails, and small timber about a settlement. In the lower country, ox carts capable of carrying three or four barrels of rice are almost solely the mode of land carriage for the rice planters. They are drawn by three or four yoke of oxen, and attended by two or three negro drivers. There are upwards of sixteen different grasses indigenous to South Carolina ; but in general little attention is paid to the forming of pasture and mea- dow lands. The cattle are sent into the woods to graze ; and the culture of cotton, rice, and maize becomes the chief object of the planter and farmer's attention. Some lands in the vicinity of Charles- ton are, however, converted into fields for mowing, as the high price of hay in that neighbourhood ren- ders this branch of agriculture a profitable busi<* ness; but the greatest proportion of hay is brought from the northern states in the packet vessels. la general the cattle is fed during winter upon the leaves arid blades of the Indian-corn, rice-straw, &c. Horses and poultry are fed with the corn, which, MANUFACTURES. 211 together with rice, also forms the principal food of the negroes. The white inhabitants are extremely fond of the corn bruised, and boiled into a pudding, which they call hominy. It is eaten with milk, su- gar, and butter, and is a favourite dish at breakfast. While agriculture is so much attended to, and the means of engaging in it so easy, it is not sur- prising that few direct their attention to manu- factures. Some years ago a cotton manufactory -was established near Statesborough, which bid fair to rise into consideration. It was, however, soon perceived that the price of labour was too great to permit its goods to stand any competition with those of similar qualities imported from Great Britain: consequently the proprietors were obliged to discontinue their operations. A numerous po- pulation and scarcity of lands must first be expe- rienced in a country before its inhabitants will resort to manufactures, while a more eligible mode of subsistence exists. In the upper country, however, necessity has obliged the inhabitants to provide for their respective wants from their own resources, in consequence of the difficulty and expense of conveying bulky articles from the sea- coast to the interior. The traveller there soon becomes accustomed to the humming music of the spinning-wheel and the loom. Cottons and ^woollens of various descriptions are made in suf- ficient quantities for domestic use ; and if we P 2 2 1 2 GUNPOWDER GRIST MILLS CORDAGE. cept the articles of salt and sugar, the people in the upper parts of the state may be considered independent of foreign support ; for carpenters, smiths, masons, tanners, shoemakers, sadlers, hat- ters, millwrights, and other tradesmen, are conve- niently situated throughout the country ; and the materials necessary for their respective professions are met with in abundance. Gunpowder is occasionally manufactured in the interior of South Carolina ; not, however, by a re- gular set of mills, but in a small way, and as exi- gencies may require. In general the inhabitants are supplied with that article and saltpetre from Tennessee and Kentucky. A variety of mills for grinding wheat and pack- ing flour, for sawing timber and making oil, are scattered over the country. Three rope* walks have also been established of late years; two near Charleston, and the other at Columbia. The latter manufactures about 8O tons of cordage in the year, from hemp raised upon the lands in the adjacent country. From this manufactory the ropes and cables were obtained for the first equipment of the John Adams frigate of 32 guns, built at Charleston in 1799- Previous to the revolutionary war the exports of South Carolina amounted, upon an average, to 500,000/. sterling, and consisted principally of rice, indigo, tobacco, deer skins, pitch, tar, tur- COMMERCE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 213 pentine, salt provisions, Indian corn, and lumber. During the war agriculture and commerce were both materially injured. The usual supplies of clothing from the mother-country being stopped, manufactories were established ; and the negroes were for the most part clothed with mixed cloths of cotton and wool spun and woven for the occa- sion. Many negroes were taken from agricultural pursuits, as well to assist at these manufactures as to carry on the erection of fortifications and other public works; in consequence of which the articles for exportation naturally decreased, or, when col- lected, were consumed at home alternately by friends and foes. At the conclusion of the war it appeared that the agriculture and commerce of South Carolina had retrograded nearly forty-seven years ; the exports of 1783 being scarcely equal to those of 1736. The internal consumption, however, must have been greater, but the loss to the state was the 'same. Since that period her agriculture and commerce have rapidly augmented, though in some degree counteracted by the partial prohibi- tion of the importation of negroes for several years past, and which was fully carried into execution on the 1st of January 1808. From year to year new .prospects have presented themselves ; new objects of agriculture have arisen ; and the loss of one staple has been supplied by another of supe- 214 COMMERCE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. rior value : cotton is now the most valuable ex- port of South Carolina. Since the French Revolution Charleston has been the medium of the greatest part of that trade which has been carried on between the French West India islands and the mother-country under the neutral flag of the United Spates. In this man- ner quantities of cocoa, coffee, sugar, rum, indigo, and other articles, the produce of the French, Spa- nish, and Dutch possessions in the West Indies and South America, are included in the exports of South Carolina, from the year 1/93, which in time of peace are directly exported from the co- lonies to the mother country. Within these few years much of this neutral traffic has been gradu- ally abolished by the restrictive decrees and orders of council of the two great belligerent Powers, in return for which the Americans have retaliated by a general embargo : with what success remains to be seen. The number of vessels that entered the port of Charleston in 1801 amounted to 1,2/4, of which 875 belonged to that port ; the rest were chiefly British vessels. At the time the embargo reached Charleston, the number of vessels in port were, ships 78> brigs 42, schooners and sloops 85 total 205. EXPORTS FROM CHARLESTON. 215 13 1-5 O O Q-J2 3 2 Is o a 1 o ^ o a, fl tfjg s s . ** C 4* a ^ S ?> c^-a rSS. II "I 8 g |l o II ca pq .-jOOO-^oco-HTi* ^OOOc co" x T^ Tf oo =s CO CO n 8 S-H c^ 00 Oi CO CO CO CQ O CO ^O CO CN >O Ci'O 10 CO OiOO i- , -} - Oj G~< '-' --< O< -* CT, .CN O. i -3" *O Ol > i T-I i i |J< j I i oo "~ "" a ' - g|U^5:s oo o> < ^C 'O> slS o I u-i S ^ " \o nS I rs o>cx-*^ocooi |o- |04 5 01 n to CN -o ^o cs> | r- t- r- ' 10 r-|^ IF I 3 I ' '~ 2 S= D 8 V * *- w w ^ i-t. ' s v c ^-^ o H c ** ~". s rr . QJ H c ^ F^ "a II E-l g IflltJI 8,1 II 11 Ifllilf 1 g^Q^Quoo ^ ^_HK^J Q o a: o d&S c5 5 < A X & saseasiQ -saseasip ajuuBjuj -sasuasip a]uqa.j jBupsaiuy -PJOUICUJ VOL. II. 226 JOURNEY FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH* CHAPTER XXXVI. Journey from Charleston to Savannah on Foot Four- Mile House Ashley River Rantowles Creek Pine Barrens Live Oaks Moss Soli- tary Walk through the Woods Lose my Way Meet a Negro Arrive at the 23 Mile PIouss Tavern-keeper Anecdote of Mr. C . Resume my Journey the next Morning Over- take a travelling Negro Arrive at the Fillage of Jacksonborough Dine there Get into the Stage Fellow Passengers A French Traveller His Opinion of the Americans Buonaparte'' $ Death A new Revolution in France Pocota* ligo Coosywhatchie Arrive at Purryslmrgh Col. Puny Indian Tumuli Negro Boat Song. I HAD remained at Charleston upwards of two months, when I came to the whimsical resolution of taking a journey of 12O miles on foot to Savan- nah in Georgia. The weather was fine, though at times rather too warm. The road which I had to travel lay through a dreary and extensive forest of pine-trees, or, as it is termed by the Carolinians, a pine barren, where a habitation is seldom seen except at intervals of ten or twelve miles. JOURNEY FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH. I should have been glad, could I have procured a companion : but those to whom I proposed the journey, instead of accepting, endeavoured to per- suade me from it ; and mentioned the lonely and dreary woods through which I must walk so many miles, without, perhaps, meeting a human being* But. at that time I was enthusiastically bent on my project. I had even formed, in my own mind, a determination to return from Charleston to New York on foot, though a distance of more than 700 miles; and for this purpose I intended my excur- sion to Savannah as a kind of preparatory journey, which would inure me to the fatigue of walking so many miles, and at the same time give me an idea of a great portion of the country through which I must pass. With this view, I furnished myself with a light dress ; and as 1 expected to meet with a friend at Savannah, 1 did not en- cumber myself with a supply of linen : I therefore took nothing more than the clothes I had on, and a stout stick, and on the 10th of March, about ten in the forenoon, set out from Charleston. I availed myself of the opportunity of leaving town the day before the stage which runs that road twice a week, in order that, if the journey became irksome, or the weather proved indifferent, I might get up and ride. For the first ten miles out of Charleston, the is very much cut up by the country wag* 228 ASHLEY FERRY. gons, and the sand is deep and heavy. I walked to the four-mile house in an hour, though every step I took the sand was above my ancles. The Four-Mile House is a large handsome tavern, and much frequented by the inhabitants of Charleston, who ride out there for recreation in the after- noon, particularly on Sundays. It is chiefly the resort of the middling classes; the gentry seldom or never visit it. Between the tavern and Charles- ton, the road is lined with the hedges and fences o belonging to several handsome plantations : the houses are, however, seldom seen, being built a considerable distance back. From theyb?^r to the eight -mile house, the road lies in some places through a wood, in others by the side of plantations, but the scenery is dull and monotonous ; a few indifferent buildings are all that appear, at long intervals, among the trees. About a mile beyond the eight-mile house, the road suddenly turns off to the left, towards Ashley ferry, and to the right towards Dorchester and Orangeburgh. The scene that presented itself, when I reached this turning on the left, was ex- tremely beautiful, and formed a striking contrast to the dreary sameness of the wood which I had just passed through. The road descended gradually between a fine grove of trees for about a quarter of a mile, when it suddenly opened into an expansive savannah or rice swamp, upwards of six miles in ASHLEY FERRY. 229 circumference. Several large plantations and hand- some houses are situated on the border of this extensive plain, and behind them the scene is closed by the surrounding forests. The river Ashley, which runs through this swamp, springs from the Cypress and other swamps towards Monk's Corner in the lower country, and empties itself into Charleston harbour at the southern side of the city. Its width opposite Charleston is about 2,100 yards, and its stream narrows but little for several miles; it is navigable for ships a few miles up, and for sloops and schooners to a considerable distance. On the western bank of this river the first efficient settlement of the State was made, at a place now called Old Town, or Old Charleston'?*, in 1 6/1, by a small colony sent out under Governor Sayle, The road across the swamp is well kept up by large pieces of timber, piles, &c. which raise it several feet higher than the surface of the swamp, though in the spring and fall of the year it is sometimes overflowed. The soil is of a dark brown loam, and apparently very rich. A consi- derable part was drained off for working, but the remainder was covered with long grass, flags, and reeds. Having passed the river in a flat-bottomed scow secured by a rope stretched from shore to shore, I went into the ferry-house, which is also a small 23O RANTOWLE'S CREEK. tavern. It was then near one o'clock, and I would willingly have taken some refreshment, had not the landlord assured me that he had not a morsel of bread in the house; I however procured a glass of brandy and water, and immediately proceeded on my journey. I struck into a thick ^ine bar] -en which lay before me, and through which a narrow road was cut. The soil was of a light sandy nature, and the smooth and even road, so different from that over which I had passed, plainly denoted how little it was disturbed by waggons, or carriages of any description ; and showed that the further I went the more solitary and lonely I should find my journey. Indeed, the whole of the road from Ashley ferry to Savan- nah river, a distance of 90 miles, is scarcely ever traversed by any other vehicle than the stage- coach, or occasionally the carriage of a planter. I arrived about half-past two at Rantowle's Creek, a distance of l6 miles from Charleston. This creek is a branch of the Stone River, and runs through an immense swamp. It has a pleas- ing effect, after being shut up for several miles in a thick forest, to emerge all at once into a broad open space covered only with grass or reeds ; the eye is thus agreeably relieved from the dull same- ness of the pine grove. I went into a tavern which stands near the creek, to see what I could obtain for dinner : I 59011 found that the larder PINE BARRENS. 231 was not very plentifully supplied, but after a little search a wild duck was procured and dressed : this, with a bottle of London porter, afforded me a much better repast than 1 expected to meet with in such a solitary place. About half- past three I again set forward on my route, and before I had gone a quarter of a mile was clear of the swamp, and once more under the shade of the lofty pine-trees. The day was uncommonly fine ; and though the sun was very powerful, I suffered but little inconvenience from it, as the pine trees afforded me an excellent shelter; they, in fact, formed one continual grove as far as the eye could reach. The road was nar- row, and nearly as level as a bowling-green ; the soil varied in different places, but in general it was a light sandy earth, and free from stones. I had now fairly entered the pine barrens^ and never felt myself more disposed for gloomy re- flections than while passing through these lonely wildernesses. A habitation is seldom seen, ex- cept at intervals of ten or twelve miles, or when you approach a savannah or swamp ; for the plan- tations are all settled a considerable distance from the road, and paths of communication are cut through the woods; so that, in travelling through the southern states, you are enveloped in almost one continued forest. A contrary practice is adopted in the northern and middle states, where 232 PINE BARRENS. a succession of farms, meadow?, gardens, and habi- tations, continually meet the eye of the traveller; and if hedges were substituted for rail fences, those States would very much resemble some of the English counties. The pine barrens are without any stones on their surface, for eighty miles or more from the sea. The land rises by an almost imperceptible ascent to that distance, where the elevation is said to be near two hundred feet above the level of the ocean, and forms the boundary between the middle and lower parts of the State. Through this tract of country the pine barrens have little or no underwood, some species of shrub oak ex- cepted, the ground being generally covered with coarse wild grasses. This is probably not its na- tural appearance, but is caused by the custom of burning the dry grass in the spring, in order to hasten early pasturage, at the same time destroy^ ing the young shrubs, which would otherwise shoot up and form a thick underwood between the pines. From this practice, the forests fre- quently exhibit on each side the road a dismal appearance, from the great number of trees half burnt and scorched and blacked by the fire ; others lying on the ground, or ready to fall with the first high wind; and in several places it is rather hazardous travelling in stormy weather. Almost every week the driver of the stage coach FLOWERS. 233 has to cut away large trunks or branches that have fallen across the road; or, if there is an open- ing sufficiently wide among the trees, he chooses rather to go round than trouble himself to use his axe. The pines are chiefly of the pitch and yellow species, and grow to the height of 1OO feet and more, with a handsome straight stem, two-thirds of which, upwards, are free from branches. They make excellent masts and timber for vessels, and yield abundance of pitch, tar, rosin, and turpen- tine. The stumps of several which had been cut down were covered with the resinous matter that had been extracted from the top by the heat of the sun. Where the soil improves, which is sometimes the case even in the midst of these barrens, the eye is relieved from the monotonous solemnity of the lofty pine, by a variety of other trees, consisting principally of live oak ; red, white, and chesnut oaks; hickory, elm, beech, maple, &c. and numerous shrubs, plants, and flowers. In several places, natural hedges are formed of the shrubs and underwood that escape the ravages of fire; these are intermingled with a variety of flowers, among which the honeysuckles, woodbines, and yellow jasmines are most conspi- cuous. When I passed, they were in full blossom, and the flowers at once pleased the eye, and im- pregnated the air with their delightful odours. 23-4 LIVE OAK. The Carolina live oak is interspersed among the pines in different parts of the country, and parti- cularly along the road. This tree is an evergreen, and bears a small leaf resembling the myrtle. It is the most durable oak in the country, and almost as heavy as lignum vitse. Its parts have also such adhesion, that it will not split, and a nail once driven into it is with difficulty extracted. Its trunk is short, sometimes six or seven feet in diameter, and its large crooked branches will fre- quently spread over near half an acre of ground : it is much used in ship- building. Besides this, Carolina possesses upwards of twenty other species of oak. Upon the live oak there grows a remark- able long moss, of a light gray colour, which blossoms in May. This moss adheres also to several of the pine-trees in the vicinity of the live oaks, but it is more particularly attached to the latter. To my eye,, it had a very disagreeable effect, as it resembled a quantity of loose tow that had clung to the trees and encumbered their branches: many persons, however, think that it gives the forests of the new world a venerable aspect. The branches of several trees, from which this moss was suspended in great quantities, were destitute of leaves, and appeared in a decayed state. I have not been able to ascertain whether this was occasioned by the rnoss, but there was every appearance of it. This moss is a native SOLITARY WALK. 235 only of low, flat, and marshy soils, and in South Carolina is not found beyond the falls of the rivers: several attempts have been made to propagate it in the upper country, but without success. It grows abundantly in the forests of Louisiana. The inhabitants of Carolina fill their mattresses, beds, and pillows with it; and in hard winters it often affords an excellent food for cattle. As I proceeded on my journey, the pine-trees, which have their branches towards their summits, formed a complete grove over rny head, and al- most excluded the sky from my view : in the morning this shady walk was extremely pleasant, but as the day began to close I would willingly have preferred a less gloomy retreat. Every step J took was still the same, and nothing disturbed the solemn silence of the forest, save the whistling murmurs of the wind, the skipping of a few deer across the road, and the rustling of the black " o snakes amid the grass and fallen branches of the trees. Now and then, indeed, the crash of an enormous pine-tree tumbling to the earth would ruffle the stillness which prevailed, and arouse rne from a reverie of thought into which I had fallen, as I pensively measured my steps through the gloomy wilderness ; but the sound, after re- verberating for a few seconds, died away in distant murmurs through the woods, and all was again 236 SQLLITARY WALK. Since leaving Rantowle's Creek I had neither met a single human being, nor caught the least glimpse of a habitation ; not even the welcome sound of the negro's axe ever came to delight my ear and cheer my spirits ; and though I continued to advance mile after mile, yet no termination ap- peared to the road, nor did any other branch off from it : all was one straight, even path, and I had no other alternative but to proceed in a direct line or turn back. The sun was just going down, heavy dews were beginning to rise, and all around was awfully solemn. I had thus proceeded till near six o'clock, expecting every moment to reach the twenty- three mile house, where 1 meant to take up my abode for the night, when I came to a place where the road branched off in two direc- tions. There was no finger-post to direct me which to take ; nor was there a human being at hand to whom I could apply for information. It was nearly dusk, and I had no time to hesitate; so at hazard I took the road which turned off to the left. This road exactly resembled that over which I had passed so many miles; but neither house nor plan* tation appeared in sight, though from the remark- able evenness of the road I could see a very con- siderable distance : the prospect, however, was terminated only by the tall pine-trees. After walking about half an hour without corning up to the tavern as I expected, 1 began to hesitate about LOSE MYSELF. 237 going any further, for I knew not whither the road led, as it was not laid down in the map of South Carolina which I had with me. I felt extremely tired ; and I believe the anxiety I suffered at the uncertainty of my situation contributed not a little to heighten my fatigue. I however determined to proceed, and consoled myself with the idea that the road was not made without an object, and must therefore lead to some plantation or village. The prospect of having to pass the night in the woods made me quicken my steps, though every step I took was a painful exertion. I had continued my hasty strides for about a mile, when at a considerable distance I perceived a negro with a couple of horses coming towards me. This was a welcome sight: I immediatelv hastened to meet him ; and on his coming up in- quired whether I was in the right road for the twenty-three mile house. To my infinite mortifi- cation and disappointment he replied that I should have taken the other ; and that if I had continued the way I was going, I should not have seen a house for sixteen miles. I had now no other resource but to return back about four miles, and therefore requested the negro to let me ride his master's horse, with which he was returning home: to this he consented, and I very gladly jumped upon his back. As we rode along he showed me the place where he should turn off. after he had * 238 TWENTY THREE MII.E HOUSE. set me down at the end of the road. I was not surprised that I had never discerned this opening in the forest, so completely was the spot enveloped by trees ; nor was there any path from which a stranger could suspect that he was in the neigh- bourhood of a large plantation. The Carolinians are very expert at hunting deer on horseback, and proceed through these woods with great velocity and dexterity. They are like- wise so well acquainted with the country, that they never lose themselves, but travel from plan- tation to plantation, through many parts in which a stranger would be completely bewildered. Having arrived at the end of the road, I dis^ mounted, gave the friendly negro a shilling for his civility, and set forward with hasty steps for the twenty-three mile house, where i arrived between seven and eight o'clock. By this time the day was completely closed ; and the moon, which was nearly at the full, was just rising. I was heartily rejoiced when I entered the house, and sat down to rest my weary limbs, for I was unac- customed to pedestrian journeys, and bad walked upwards of twenty-seven miles since ten o'clock, four of which were in the wrong road. It was a for- tunate circumstance that I had not undertaken my journey a week before, as I should have been dis- appointed of a night's lodging at this house ; the family who now occupied it having been in only TAVERN KEEPER, 23Q five clays, previous to which it had stood empty above a fortnight. C5 The twenty-three mile house can scarcely be called a tavern, as the few travellers who fre- quent this road seldom or never stop there ; but a change of horses is kept in an adjoining stable for the stage coach. 1 found my host to be a very intelligent friendly man; he received me cordially, and promised me the best entertainment his house afforded, His wife immediately got tea ready, and fried some eggs and bacon as an accompaniment, which she performed tolerably well, with two or three children squalling at LILT heel?. The build- ing, which was constructed of logs, consisted of four rooms on one floor; and the interstices be- tween the logs not being filled up with clay or moss, the evening dew and the light of the moon found a ready admittance into our apartment: we however had a cheerful fire, and I consi- dered myself extremely fortunate in getting under cover. After tea, or rather supper, my host, who ap- peared somewhat above the ordinary cast of ta- vern-keepers, entertained me with an account of himself, and the motives which led him to take that house. He told me that he was a native of Guernsey, which island he had left about four- teen years ago to settle in America, where he flattered himself, like many others, with the i 240 FEVER AND AGUE. of making a rapid fortune and returning home again. When he arrived at Charleston he was worth about 1500/.; but he confessed, with much regret, that he was not now worth so many dollars. Though he had letters to a very respectable family, who did all they could to serve him,, yet he was unfortunate in his speculations ;' and finding the land of that nature that it could not be worked without a large capital, and living being very expensive, he became an overseer on a plan- tation. The last planter he lived with was Mr. J\ h, who resided some distance off, and with whom he had been upwards of three years. During that time he had acquired a couple of negroes of his own, who worked occasionally for Mr. S h ; but that gentleman at length refusing to give them the same allowance of corn as his own slaves, he had left his service within the last five days, and taken the twenty-three mile house till he could get into the employ of another planter. This man gave me a melancholy account of the ravages which the fever and ague make upon the constitutions of the white people settled in these parts of the country, every summer and autumn. He and his family were always attacked with those disorders, which were more or less severe accord- ing to the temperature of the seasons. The lower class of people are also accustomed to live so much ANECDOTE OF MR. C . 241 upon dried salted meat and fish, that with the at- tacks of the fever and ague their countenances assume a pale sallow hue, and their bodies are often reduced to mere skeletons. If the white people can recover from these repeated attacks upon their health, they may stand a chance of realizing considerable property ; and he informed me that several of the present rich planters of South Carolina were formerly overseers. He told me of a young gentleman, the son of a respectable French family in Charleston, who, fired with enthusiasm in the cause of the French revolution, would not rest till he had entered the French army, which was then fighting on the frontiers of the kingdom against the combined powers of the continent. For this purpose, and contrary to the wishes of his parents, he went to Guernsey, where he became acquainted with my informant, at whose house he resided till a con- venient opportunity offered for him to reach the French coast. In the mean time he was appre- hended by the governor, and sent to England on suspicion of being a French spy. He however contrived to make his escape, and went back again to his friend in Guernsey, who concealed him in his house upwards of six weeks disguised in women's clothes. At length, having purchased an open boat, they both embarked in the night, ajid went over to the coast of France. The young ii. E 242 RESUME MY JOURNEY. man immediately joined the French army on the frontiers, and was killed about six months after- wards. He had given my host letters to his friends in Charleston, and from the representations he gave of America, the former was induced to emi- grate to that country. In 1?9 4 he arrived at Charleston. The young man's friends received him with much attention, and did every thing in their power to forward his views, but without suc- cess. I retired to rest about ten o'clock, but did not lie very comfortably, as the camp bedstead, which had been placed in the room for my accommoda- tion, was unfortunately half a leg too short. It was, however, so much superior to a night's lodg- ing in a tree, which I had narrowly escaped, that I should have been ungrateful to have complained of my situation. The next morning I arose at six, and, having breakfasted, again set forward on my journey. It was a beautiful morning, and I felt the want of nothing but a pleasant companion, to whom I might communicate my thoughts: without this, travelling is dreary and melancholy, even in the best cultivated parts of America: but with a fellow- traveller I should have no objection to walk from one end of the Union to the other : from Brew- ster's in Maine to St. Mary's in Georgia ; from the shores of Philadelphia to the banks of the Ohio. TRAVELLING NEGRO. 243 After walking two or three miles I came to a large plantation. Here the negroes were em- ployed in hoeing the earth, clearing the neigh- bouring forests, and carrying the wood upon their heads to different parts for the purpose of fencing in the grounds ; men, women and children were all busily engaged under the superintendance of an overseer. The house, which was but indiffe- rent, stood a considerable distance from the road. I saw no cattle or poultry of any description ; in- deed, a plantation has very rarely the comfortable appearance of a farm. A little further I overtook a negro with a basket on his head returning to Ashepoo from Charleston, where he had been to dispose of some poultry and game. I had passed this negro yesterday, just after quitting Charleston ; and at the time I lost my way he most probably passed along the other road, as he slept at the plantation just beyond the twenty-three mile house. This man told me that he generally went twice a-week from Ashepoo to Charleston, a distance of fifty miles, with poultry and game, to sell at market for his master, who was a planter. He brought back whatever the family wanted from the city ; and he always made these journeys on foot without shoe or stocking. He was a very civil fellow, and I found his com- pany by no means despicable in the midst of a R 2 244 VILLAGE OF JACKSONBOROUGH. dreary pine barren. He was about forty year* old, and a native of the country. He seemed happy and contented with his situation, and per- fectly resigned to his destiny. The scene along this road was very little diffe- rent to that of yesterday ; but I was oftener saluted with the sound of the woodman's axe, though fre- quently at a considerable distance. A great num- ber of red and blue birds, about the size of a thrush, appeared among the trees, and enlivened the woods with their gay plumage and cheerful notes. I saw few other birds, the season being rather too early for the appearance of that variety with which this State abounds. About 12 o'clock I arrived at Jacksonborough, having passed the Edisto river in a ferry-boat, within a quarter of a mile of the village. At this river, as well as at Rantowle's creek, there are bridges ; but both are damaged by the freshes, or high tides, which take place in the spring of the year. The Edisto is shallow, and incapable of be- ing navigated far up its stream by boats of heavy burthen. In a full river the navigation of its northern branch is open as far as Orangeburgh ; and its southern branch is also navigable some miles, until it is interrupted by many islands and shoals, which at one place are thickly scattered in the river. When the river is low, it is fordable at Parker's ferry, about thirty-five miles from the STAGE-COACH PASSENGERS. 24 sea ; and during the revolutionary war field pieces were dragged across its channel in that place. This river takes its rise in the middle country, from the ridge of high land which lies between the Con- garee and Savannah rivers. Jack son borough is a small village containing about twenty or thirty houses. It was much larger ; but a fire some years ago destroyed several buildings, and they have not since been rebuilt. The houses have small pieces of ground and gar- dens attached to them ; but very little land is cleared in the vicinity of the place. In 1782, when Charleston was in the hands of the British troops, the different branches of the State govern- ment were convened here ; and in this place the acts of confiscation and banishment were passed against citizens of the state who were unfriendly to the American revolution. I stopped at the only tavern in the village, and shortly after the stagecoach from Charleston came up to the door. The passengers alighted, and staid here to dine: I followed their example; and when the stage was ready to depart I got in with them, intending only to go as far as Pocotaligo, about thirty miles from Jacksonborough, where we should put up for the night. I was the more in- clined to this, as I should start fresh the next morning, after resting a considerable time from the fatigues of the preceding days. 246 STAGE-COACH PASSENGERS. The passengers in the stage were an American lady and two children ; two Frenchmen and two Americans. The coach was the same kind as those used in the northern states, open in front, and with leather curtains let down at the back and sides. As there were nine of us including the driver, who sat on the front seat, the coach was pretty well filled. After travelling a few miles I found my thin dress was too cool for riding, particularly as the weather became cloudy, and threatened to rain, Unfortunately I had not scrambled like the rest to get a birth on one of the back seats, by which I might have been sheltered from the cold breeze which now began to spring up. I was therefore obliged to sit in front ; and though the rest were all muffled up in thick great coats, not one of them had the politeness to offer to change places with me. However, I was deter- mined, when we alighted, that my civility should not prevent me, as it had done at Jackson borough, from procuring a more comfortahle seat. About a mile from Jacksonborough there is a small church, the first I had seen since leaving Charles- ton : it is situated in a small burying-ground, in a retired and romantic spot amidst the forest. It serves the inhabitants for many miles round as a place of worship ; but I know not to what sect it belongs. One of the French gentlemen had lately ar- A FRENCH TRAVELLER. rived from Bourdeaux, and the other from Mar- tinique. As there was but little general conver- sation, the Americans were not very loquacious ; and the Frenchmen conversed mostly by them- selves. Their conversation, which was chiefly on American subjects and politics, was highly amus- ing to me. The one from Bourdeaux, I found, was a traveller ; but I could not learn his name, though I had some reason to believe that he was the celebiated naturalist Michaux ; who, as well as his father, has travelled much over the Ame- rican states. I recollected his face at New York, and soon learnt that he had arrived there from Bourdeaux in 1807. He had travelled from New York to Charleston by land within the last three weeks. He made several observations upon the Americans, and complained much of the rudeness of the lower orders of the people. " The liberty of the Americans," says he, " degenerates into impertinence : theirs is not the liberty of the soul, but its insolence. The driver sat down to the same table with us at dinner : this he would not have dared to do had he known his company to be persons of distinction or rich planters. The rich, therefore, in this land of liberty are relieved from the insolence of the lower orders, but strangers and the middling classes are obliged to suffer." This practice of the driver taking his meals at the same table with his passengers I never met with 248 NEW REVOLUTION IN FRANCE. except in South Carolina and Georgia. Ifi the northern states I was always treated with the greatest civility by the stage-coach men, who sel- dom or never came into the same room with the passengers, much less sat down to dinner with them. It was, however, curious enough to hear a Frenchman, who might naturally be supposed to have fraternized for the last seventeen years with the lowest dregs of his own countrymen, complaining of the rudeness and brutality of the common people in America towards gentlemen* From some observations which afterwards fell from him, it appeared, that though partial to the revolution, he was no friend to the existing govern- ment of France, He spoke severely against the despotism Of Bonaparte, who he said had trampled upon the liberties of his country, and deceived the people by the false glare of martial achievements. "Into what a deplorable state of anarchy and confusion," says he, " will our unfortunate country be thrown when that tyrant dies! It will be torn to pieces by his relations and generals, all of whom will think they have an equal right to govern. The people will not know whom to trust, or in whom to con- fide their liberties. The nation will be convulsed to the centre : the reign of terror will again com- mence, and hosts of external foes will attempt to wrest from France the countries which the pre- NEW REVOLUTION IN FRANCE. Sent chief has so unjustly acquired ; and, wheri once success has emboldened them, who shall say where they will stop! Then will they indeed re- taliate upon unfortunate France the evils which her revolution, like the opening of Pandora's box^ has spread over the face of the globe. I hope," continued he, " for the sake of my country, that I may prove a bad prophet; but, when Bona- parte is no more, I cannot see how, or in what manner, such a state of things can be avoided. At present, he is the life and soul of every thing around him; the pivot upon which all things move ; the great corner stone of the gigantic fabric, which he has raised to immortalize his name. Take him away, and the whole building must inevitably tumble into one undistinguished mass of ruins." I could not help admiring the justness of his remarks ; and, if we look into the history of na- tions, we shall find that events, such as he pre- dicts, have generally followed the ambitious ag- grandizement of those individuals who have trampled upon the liberties of mankind for the purpose of immortalizing themselves as heroes and demigods. The French gentleman declared that the En- glish government was the best in the world. It Was indeed at times liable to be abused 5 but the 250 POCOTALIGO. spirit of the people, originating from the nature of their constitution, would never suffer it to en- slave them, or materially injure their liberties. The American government, he said, wanted sta- bility; it depended too much upon the will of the mob ; but next to the English government he preferred it to any other. When settled, he in- tended to reside in England, until France should be restored to her legitimate form of government; at present, he said, all countries were alike to him, who was a traveller. The other gentleman formerly resided in Mar- tinique, but for several years past had settled in Georgia as a planter. He was now returning home from a visit which he had made to that island upon some mercantile concerns: and, from what 1 could learn of his sentiments, he was strongly attached to the American government. We arrived at Pocotaligo about nine o'clock, and stopped at a miserable post-house or tavern. The stage from Savannah had arrived two or three hours before us ; and there being several passen- gers in it, all the beds were occupied, and most of the provisions consumed. We were therefore obliged to proceed on to Coosyvv hatch ie, about six miles further, where we procured accommo- dations for the night. The mail bag, which is carried by the stage, is opened at Pocotaligo, and COOSYWHATCHIE. 25 1 the letters sorted for the post-office at Coosywhat- chie. The coaches also meet at the former place, and receive each other's passengers. Coosyvvhatchie is a small village, J3 miles from Charleston, containing a tavern, a post-office, two or three stores, and a few farm houses. The place retains its ancient name from a nation of Coosah Indians who formerly resided on the spot. It is in the neighbourhood of a small river navi- gable for vessels of light burthen, and several rich planters reside within the circumference of a few miles, in the vicinity of this village. Unfortunately for the continuation of my pe- destrian excursion, the weather next morning ap- peared extremely unfavourable. The sky was lowering, and large black clouds surcharged with their fluid matter seemed ready to burst every moment over our heads. As I had no inclina- tion for a romantic tour through the woods, on foot, during a thunder-storm or violent hurricane, which are very common in this country, I thought it more advisable to proceed in the coach. I ac- cordingly took care to secure a more comfortable seat than fell to my lot the day before, and at seven o'clock we left Coosywhatchie. About a mile from the village we once more entered the pine barrens, but the sameness of the road was at times relieved by an open swamp, in the neighbourhood of a small stream; and in those 252 PURRYSBURGH. INDIAN TUMULt. places we generally saw a few plantations, and now and then a handsome house. The wooden bridges over the small rivers were very dangerous, being composed only of a few loose planks, with openings wide enough for a horse's leg to slip through ; we however met with no accident, and the road in general was uncommonly good. A number of deer, which had been started most probably by hunters in the forest, bounded across the road in several places, as we passed along. The storm which appeared likely to have de- scended upon us in the early part of the morning, now dissolved into small mizzling rain ; and on our arrival at Purrysburgh at one o'clock it in- creased to a heavy shower. The weather also became unpleasantly cold, and we were happy to get by the side of a good fire to warm ourselves. The house where we stopped to dine belonged to the driver of the coach, and his wife had every thing ready for us upwards of two hours before our arrival. Purrysburgh is a paltry village, si- tuated near the banks of the Savannah river, about 97 miles from Charleston, and 23 from the town ot Savannah. It contains scarcely a dozen houses, and they are occupied by the poorer sort of people. The tumuli of an Indian nation, which formerly resided here, are still visible, and carefully pre- served by the inhabitants. Purrysburgh was ori- ginally a place of some note, from a colony of COLONEL PURRY. SILK WORMS. 253 Swiss, which was established there for the purpose of cultivating silk and vineyards. It was named after Colonel John Peter Furry, a Swiss officer, who effected the settlement under the British government about eighty years ago. At one time a considerable quantity of silk was raised in South Carolina and Georgia, but it has since given place to the more lucrative productions of cotton and rice. The soil and climate are allowed to be well adapted to the raising of silk. Mulberry-trees grow spontaneously in various places, and native silk worms, producing well-formed cocoons, are often found in the woods. The stage coach proceeds no further than Pur- rysburgh, a boat being provided to carry the mail and passengers down the river to Savannah, a di- stance of 25 miles. The State pays 1500 dollars per annum for the carriage of the mail, so that the comfort of passengers is often less regarded by the proprietors than the bag of letters. It happened unluckily for me, there were so many passengers, and so much baggage, that the usual covered boat was too small to hold us, and the con- ductor of the mail was obliged to procure a large canoe, but without any awning or shelter what- ever. This was no very agreeable conveyance for twenty-five miles in rainy weather, and I was in doubt whether to go with them, or stay for a more favourable opportunity ; but, having borrowed a 254 NEGRO BOAT-SONG. great coat from the boatman, I embarked with the rest. We started from Purrysburgh about two o'clock, and were rowed by four negroes, for canoes are not paddled here as in Canada. They seemed to be jolly fellows, and rowed lustily to a boat-song of their own composing. The words were given out by one of them, and the rest joined chorus at the end of every line. It began in the following manner : CHORUS. " We are going down to Georgia, boys, Aye, aye, To see the pretty girls, boys j Yoe, yoe. We'll give 'em a pint of brandy, boys, Aye, aye. And a hearty kiss besides, boys. Yoe, yoe. &c. &c. &c." The tune of this ditty was rather monotonous, but had a pleasing effect, as they kept time with it at every stroke of their oars. The words were mere nonsense ; any thing, in fact, which came into their heads. I however remarked that brandy was very frequently mentioned, and it was understood as a hint to the passengers to give them a dram. We had supplied ourselves with this article at Purrysburgh, and were not sparing of it to the negroes, in order to encourage them to row quick. During the passage it rained in- cessantly, and prevented me from seeing the river to advantage. By the time we arrived at Savan- SAVANNAH. 255 nah it was nearly dark, and our rowers, who were pretty far gone, in consequence of their frequent libations of hrandy, had nearly upset the canoe, under the cable of a ship which was lying off the town. At length we all landed in safety near the Exchange, and in company with one of the American gentlemen I proceeded immediately to Colonel Shel man's hotel. 356 COLONEL SHELMAN'S HOTEL. CHAPTER XXXVII, Savannah-*-CoL Shelman's Hotel Yazoo Bubble Character of the Georgians Settlement of Georgia Augusta St. Marys Town of Sa- vannah Houses Streets Pride of India * Promenade The Exchange Assembly -Room Population of Savannah Burying-Ground Hurricane of 1806 Arts and Sciences Mi" lit a ry Force Religion America n Fana ticism Camp Meetings Blasphemous Scenes Mid- night Orgies in the Forest, compared with the gentle and sublime Conduct of the Redeemer Mild Doctrines of Christianity The Christian Religion, a Religion of Chanty and Benevolence to all the World. THE hotel of Colonel Shelman affords better accommodation than any other house of the kind in Savannah ; but there are two or three genteel boarding-houses for those who prefer living in private. The Colonel received me very politely ; but I had scarcely sat down, when he entered upon politics, condemned the embargo, which he declared would ruin him and his family, and de- precated the conduct of Mr, Jefferson and the COLONEL SHELMAN'S HOTEL. 257 government. At first I was cautious how I en- tered into conversation with him, for I had fre- quently met with democrats, who threw out a few words to sound the sentiments of people, and, if they did not happen to coincide with their prin- ciples, would abuse them unmercifully. But hap- pening to espy a portrait of General Washington in the room, my doubts ceased, and upon a little conversation with him, I found that he was a staunch federalist. He had formerly been a Colonel in the continental army, under Washing- ton; and, like all the old officers of that army, was firmly attached to the political principles of his great leader. He had resided several years in the back coun- try as a planter, but had lately come to Savannah to try his success in a tavern. The house which he took not being large enough, he built another close to it. This he has fitted up with separate sleeping rooms, which are very seldom met with in the taverns of this part of the country. A large hall below serves as a refectory ; and at eight o'clock we sat down in this room to supper. There were upwards of twenty gentlemen pre- sent, some of whom lodged in the house, and others who merely took their meals there; the latter were principally clerks in the State bank and other offices. Here I met with several gen- tlemen who had come to Savannah to collect in VOL. II. S 258 YAZOO BUBBLE. the outstanding debts which were owing to them when in business several years past. Among the rest was Mr. M'C , the old gentleman whom I before mentioned as speculating so unfortunately in his courtship with Mrs. S. of Charleston. He resides in England, but occasionally takes a voyage to America to recover his property. He, as well as the other gentlemen, complained much of the backwardness of the planters of Carolina and Georgia in paying their debts ; and though they had put the accounts into lawyers' hands, the money came in very slowly. They complained greatly of the embargo, which had increased the difficulty of recovering their debts, particularly since the judges of the courts of law in Georgia had put a stop, for a certain period, to the levying of executions in that State. If the statements of several persons with whom I conversed while I remained at Colonel Shelman's, are to be credited, the people of Georgia are in- dolent and dissipated ; not very scrupulous as to their moral character ; fond of money to excess, but careless by what means it is obtained. Even in a public capacity, they will frequently resort to means not the most honourable, as was the case in the Yazoo Bubble, which will be an everlast- ing stain upon the character of their government. In the year 1796 the State of Georgia, under the great seal, and signed by Governor Matthews, YAZOO BUBBLE. 259 granted and sold to certain individuals, associated in companies, by the title of the "Georgia Com- pany," "Georgia Mississippi Company," and the " Tennessee Company," a vast tract of land lying within the limits of Georgia, for the consideration of a sum of money to be paid into the treasury of that State. Many individuals purchased lands from the different companies, at a great price, and settlements were rapidly taking place, when the whole scheme was at once blown to atoms. The purchase-money had scarcely been paid into the treasury by the respective companies, when Governor Matthews quitted his office, and was succeeded by a man of the name of Jackson, re- markable for his violent antipathy to the federal party and all their measures. No sooner was he established in his government, than he caused a hill to pass the legislature, declaring the sale of the Yazoo lands illegal and void. He next seized the records, and burnt them before the court- house in the presence of a majority of the assem- bly, who applauded the action. In vain did the purchasers and every honest man remonstrate against such an infamous proceeding, but neither money nor land could they obtain. The State of Georgia afterwards made over the lands to the United States, leaving it to the general govern- ment to satisfy the claims of the creditors. But though it is now eighteen years since this nefari- s 2 260 SETTLEMENT OF GEORGIA. ous transaction took place, their claims yet remain unliquidated, and even opposed by a majority of the house of representatives. The Georgians are said to be great (Economists; that is to say, they hate to part with their money even for the most useful purposes. In the house of assembly, a member who aims at popularity has only to oppose all public works and improve- ments that are likely to take the money out of the pockets of the people, and he is sure to gain his end. The planters are poor and miserable when living on their plantations, though perhaps pos- sessed of immense landed property. They have less of the free and generous extravagance of the Carolinian planters, though, like them, they are always in debt, and every one complains of the difficulty of getting money from them. Horse- jockeying and racing are favourite amusements with the people, and they do not scruple to bet high on those occasions. Upon the whole, they possess all the bad but very few of the good quali- ties of their Carolinian neighbours. Gouging, and other unfair fighting, is, however, equally practised in both places, and individuals of each will fre- quently pluck out an eyc y or bite off a nose, for the honour of their respective States. The raising of silk and the planting of vines were the principal objects of the first settlers in Georgia; and though it appears that the soil SETTLEMENT OF GEORGIA. and climate are congenial to both these articles, yet the colony remained poor till the introduction of rice and cotton, which are now its staple com- modities. The country was settled in 1/33 by General Oglethorpe, who conducted the first colonists in person. They fixed upon a large plain on the banks of the Savannah river, about ten miles from the sea, for the building of a town. This settle- ment, now the town of Savannah, at first consisted of no more than 100 persons, but before the end of the year the number had increased to upwards of 600. In 1735 the population of Georgia was increased by the arrival of some Scotch High- landers. Their natural courage induced them to accept of some lands that were offered them on the southern frontier, near the river Altamaha, in order to form an establishment that might prove a defence to the colony, when necessary, against the attacks of the Spaniards in Florida. There they built the towns of New Inverness and Fre- derica, and several of their countrymen went over and settled among them. A number of German protestants, driven out of Saltzburg by the intern- perate zeal of a fanatical priest, also embarked for Georgia abont the same time, in order to enjoy peace and liberty of conscience. At first they settled in the neighbourhood of the capital; but AUGUSTA. afterwards judging it proper to be at a greater di- stance, they built the town of Ebenezer. In these four settlements, some people were found more inclined to trade than agriculture; they therefore separated from the rest, in order to build the city of Augusta, on the banks of the Sa- vannah, about 236 miles distant from the sea. The neighbouring territory is fertile in an extraor- dinary degree; but though that circumstance adds to the convenience of the settlers, it was not the motive which induced them to fix upon this situa- tion; the convenience of trading with the Indians led them to fix here, and their project was so suc- cessful, that as early as 17^9 six hundred people were employed in that trade only. Augusta is now a populous city, and the seat of government in Georgia ; and though the traffic in furs is now no longer of any importance, yet Augusta is the medium of a very extensive trade between the upper and lower parts of the State. Scows, carry- ing each 50O bags of cotton, besides numerous barges and sloops, are continually passing between Augusta and Savannah; at which latter place the productions of the interior are shipped for every quarter of the globe. Augusta contains about 4000 inhabitants, several handsome houses, churches, and stores. The town is regularly laid out, and is in many respects superior to Savannah. Three ST. MARY'S. SAVANNAH. 263 newspapers are published there in the course of the week. St. Mary's is the frontier town of Georgia, on the confines of Florida, about 95 miles from Sa- vannah. It is a small town, of no great impor- tance, otherwise than as a receptacle for imposi- tion and worthless characters. Smuggling and shuffling tricks are carried on here with success; and it was the medium for evading the embargo laws. It is separated from Florida only by the St. Mary's river. Vessels arrive here from the northern state?, and run their cargoes in small boats across to the Spanish coast, from whence they are shipped to the West Indies. I met with several persons at Colonel Shelman's, who were going to St. Mary's on these mercantile specula- tions. The road from Savannah to St. Mary's is very indifferent, and the stage goes no further than Darien; from thence the mail and passengers proceed in a canoe, for upwards of forty miles coastwise, between the numerous islands and the sea. In the spring of 1808 the mail boat was lost in its passage ; and two monks, who happened to be passengers in it, were drowned. The town of Savannah is built upon an open sandy plain, which forms a cliff, or, as the Ameri- cans term it, a bluff, by the shore, about 50 feet above the level of the river. It is well laid out for a warm climate, in the form of a parallelogram, 264 SAVANNAH. about a mile and a quarter long, and half a mile wide. The streets are wide, and open into spa- cious squares, each of which has a pump in the centre, surrounded by a small plantation of trees, A great disadvantage, however, to the town, is the total want of foot-paths and pavement. Im- provements of this nature would render walking more agreeable, and the town more cool and healthy. At present, one sinks at every step up to the ancles in sand ; and in windy weather the eyes, mouth and nostrils are filled with it. The magistrates are charged with neglect for not paving and improving the town ; but oeconomy is their foible. The houses are mostly built of wood, and stand separate from each other, divided by court yards, except in two or three streets, where they are close built, many of them with brick, and contain several shops and stores. One large range of brick buildings stands near the market-place, and at a distance has the appearance of an hospital. It is the property of one person, who built it on a speculation. It is divided into distinct houses, the ground-floor being appropriated to retail stores, and the upper apartments to private lodgings. But the principal street is that called the Bay, where there are several very good houses of brick and wood. Some contain booksellers', grocers', and drapers' stores, others are private dwellings. PRIDE OF INDIA. PROMENADE. 26*5 T\\\s range of buildings extends nearly three quar- ters of a mile along the town ; and opposite to it is a beautiful walk or mall, planted with a double row of trees, the same as those at Charleston, (Melia Azedarach, or Pride of India.) These trees are also planted in different parts of the town, but I cannot persuade myself that they are friendly to the health of the inhabitants. The shade of their thick foliage, however, forms an agreeable relief from the scorching beams of the sun, and they never engender or harbour any noxious insects upon their branches ; which are advantages that have brought them into repute both in Charleston and Savannah. This agreeable promenade is situated near the margin of the height or bluff upon which the town stands ; and the merchants' stores, ware- houses, and wharfs, for landing, housing, and shipping of goods, are built immediately below, along the shore, forming in some degree a sort of lower town. From the height there is a fine commanding view of the Savannah river as far as the sea, and for several miles above the town. The i iver is intersected by several extensive swamp islands, which divide it into different channels. They have been converted into excellent rice- grounds, as they lie very low, and are easily in- undated at the proper seasons, which the culture of that grain requires. The negroes employed in 5266 POPULATION OF SAVANNAH. that work live on the islands, in small wooden huts, exposed to the night dews and exhalations from the marshy soil, surrounded also by frequent fogs off the water. The continual moisture and dampness in which they live, would kill a white man in a few months. In the first settlement of the colony, negroes were prohibited to the set- tlers, but they now nearly equal the white popu- lation. About the centre of the walk, and just on the verge of the cliff, stands the Exchange, a large brick building, which contains some public offices; and an assembly-room, where a concert and ball are held once a fortnight during the winter. I went to the top of this building, upon which there is a steeple, and had a very extensive pano- rama view of the town, the shipping, the river, and surrounding country. The prospect was bounded by immense forests, and very little land appeared cleared in the vicinity of the town. By a census taken eight or nine years ago, the population of Savannah consisted of 3009 whites, and free people of colour; and 23/6 slaves, making a total of 5385. At present it is supposed to be about 6000. The public buildings consist of the Branch bank of the United States; the Exchange; four or five places of worship ; and a gaol, built upon the common, some distance from town. The latter is a large strong brick building, and SAVANNAH. 26? well adapted for the confinement of refractory negroes, and other offenders against the laws. A large burying-ground is judiciously situated out of town, upon the common. It is inclosed by a brick wall, and contains several monuments and tomb-stones, which are shaded by willows and pride of India ; and have a very pretty effect. This cemetery, though now a considerable distance from the town, will, in time, most probably, be surrounded by the dwellings of the inhabitants, like those of New York and Charleston. In hot climates, these places infect the atmosphere with unwholesome exhalations, and injure the health of the people. They should at least be two or three miles away from all habitations. But Sa- vannah is not likely to increase very rapidly; for adventurers reside there as at Charleston, merely for the purpose of accumulating a speedy fortune in trade; and then retire either to their native country, or to some other part more congenial to health and comfort. The situation of Savannah, and the plan upon which it is laid out, would, if the town contained better houses, render it far more agreeable as a place of residence than Charleston. Its greater elevation, I should think, must also be more con- ducive to the health of the inhabitants than the low and flat situation of the latter city. Both, however, are in the neighbourhood of swamps, 263 SAVANNAH. marshes, *nd thick woods, which are apt to en- gender diseases injurious to the constitution of white people. Georgia, like Carolina, is subject to frequent storms, hurricanes, and inundations. In 1806 a hurricane tore up the grove of trees on the Bay of Savannah, did great damage to the town and shipping, levelled all the negro huts on the swamp islands, and destroyed several of the negroes. Savannah has also suffered much from fire. Since the revolutionary war, Georgia, like most of the other States in the Union, has rapidly in- creased in population and riches : hut she cannot boast of equal rapidity in arts, sciences, and lite- rature. With respect to these embellishments of civilised society, Georgia is yet in the Gothic age. Savannah contains five or six respectable book- stores, and publishes three newspapers; two of which are attached to federal principles. The military force of the State consists of militia ; but Savannah has several corps of volunteers, infantry and cavalry, who clothe and equip themselves at their own expense. During my stay they exer- cised for several days on Fort Wayne. This for- tification is situated at the extremity of the cliff, and in the American war formed the chief de- fence of the town. It is now nearly destroyed. Presbyterianism, independency, and metho- dism, are the most prevailing forms of worship RELIGION. 269 among the inhabitants of Savannah. There are a few Jews, but no Quakers. I went one evening to hear Mr. Conoch, the favourite preacher of the Presbyterians. I cannot say that I admired his delivery, which had a fault too common to the clergymen of the United States, viz, monotony. His voice, likewise, was so loud, that it became harsh and grating to the ear; but his pronuncia- tion was clear and distinct. This gentleman is allowed, by his congregation, a salary of 3000 dollars per annum, besides the pews in the chapel which bring him in 7000 dollars more; some of the pews being let for upwards of l6o dollars per annum. This enormous sum for one clergyman, in such a small town as Savannah, is rather sur- prising ; particularly as the people are proverbial for oeconomy. But enthusiasm and extravagance in religion are often irresistible; and many persons belonging to the dissenting sects, even in Eng- land, have been known to reduce themselves al- most to absolute poverty in the support of their ministers, to the great injury of their own fami- lies : it would be well if they had always met with a grateful return for such disinterested gene- rosity. The Sunday after my arrival at Savannah I was passing a methodist meeting, and was induced, by the vehemence of the preacher, to go in and hear his discourse. He uttered such terrible im- 27O RELIGION. precations upon sinners unless they were born again in faith, that one half of his congregation were groaning and weeping in the most pitiable manner: he seemed to take delight in viewing their distress, conceiving it (I suppose) a mark of their contrition and repentance ; but I rather think it it was owing more to the terrifying loud- ness of his voice, his furious looks, and vehement gesticulations, than to a real sense of their own wickedness. Where this scene of woe and agi- tation would have stopped I know not, had the preacher continued his thundering anathemas much longer ; for some of the women were on the point of fainting away, or going into hysterics, when he fortunately lowered his voice into a short concluding prayer : this restored his congregation to their senses, dried up their tears, and reduced the groans and screams of the females to inward sobs and plaintive sighs. But such an assemblage of wretched looks, and pale, ghastly countenances, I never before saw: they seemed, indeed, to have suffered severe castigation for their sins even in this world. Instead of benefiting by the mild and consolatory precepts of Christianity, these people appeared to be lost in a sea of doubt and perplexity; and seemed to think of nothing but everlasting damnation, unless perchance they con- strued a griping of the bowels into the workings of divine grace. AMERICAN FANATICISM. 2fl In no part of the world, perhaps, is religious fanaticism carried to a more extravagant height than in the United States, by a few artful design- ing men, who contrive to delude the simple and unwary into the most shameful and blasphemous excesses. These fanatics, or artful hypocrites, re- gularly advertise what they call "camp meetings," in different parts of the country, and invite all ff friendly ministers and pray ing people" to attend. I never had an opportunity of being present atone of these meetings; but I am told that the scene* which are exhibited on these occasions often beg- gar all description. The following account of a re- cent camp meeting is by an American gentleman who was present ; and may, therefore, be consi- dered as a correct though inadequate description of the midnight orgies and revels of those deluded and artful enthusiasts. " Of late, in America, the Methodists have re- duced jumping, clapping, and shouting, to a sy- stem. Camp meetings are held in the open fields; and if convenient, in a circular form, at a distance from human habitations, in which their orgies are continued several days, until by their violent, or as they term it religious exercise, they are exhausted. They make all manner of religious gestures, dis- cordant noises, and frequently utter blasphemies. They sleep together in tents, old and young; men, women, and children indiscriminately ; the vigo- CAMP MEETINGS. rous male near the unblushing female ; black and white, all together. " I was present lately at one of these diabolical meetings, at which there might be about 5000 per- sons assembled, of all descriptions and ages. They bring their provisions with them. Soon after the rising of the sun a beautiful girl about eighteen rushed forth from the tent led by two men ; they cried, bellowed, and roared, like persons in the utmost agony begging for their lives; exclaming, a lake of fire and brimstone was flaming before them ; that a great devil was thrusting them into it ; and that God must come down. f Come, God, come down immediately and save us, or tve shall sink. 9 These, exclamations were repeated in the most vociferous manner for a length of time. O " until the young woman was so exhausted by her exertions that she fell down. Her cheek assumed the flush of burning fire ; her eyes became in- flamed ; her lips parched ; she sank on the earth, sighed and sobbed like a child. This ceremony, however, was not completed until a similar party had issued from another tent ; and that followed by a second and a third, until the action became general, and the scene the most confused, terrific, and horrible ever presented to the human eye. Little children turned pale with fear ; young girls fainted to the earth, were raised up, converted, and became good Methodists. Such real agonies, BLASPHEMOUS SCENES. perhaps, were never elsewhere excited by fictitious causes. " It appears that the first girl was kept as a de- coy, and had frequently gone through those scenes in a similar way. Designing men are, no doubt, at the bottom of this business ; and many simple, innocent souls are led on thus, and persuaded of their sincerity. But many also, who have no de- sign, are by their fanaticism and violence of pas- sion induced to commit actions, and make excla- mations, which justify the charge of blasphemy- This is by no means an exaggerated picture ; it is but a weak attempt at describing what has taken place : but it is their midnight orgies which appal the heart. " At one of their meetings near Morristown a young woman fainted ; immediately they crowded around her and began their incantations. Her brother with difficulty forced his way to her, and attempted to take her into the air, but they pre- vented him. An athletic young keretic saw their situation ; forced his way through a crowd of de- mons with a stout bludgeon, and liberated them. The brother, assisted by his friend, took her to a place of security, and by force opposed their coming near her again. A tall woman of the sect tossed up her hands, roared, bellowed with all her strength, and called upon God to * open the earth and sink them into hell /' VOL. II. T 2/4 MILD DOCTRINES OF CHRISTIANITY. " Their camp meetings are generally held in a wood ; deep, dark, lonely, and almost impene- trable, far from any human habitation. The na- tive burghers of the forest are frightened from their wild retreat, and driven from their home to 'make way for these midnight worshippers of the most extravagant superstition. Here the cauldron is set a-boiling; and here^ in this gloomy hour, the ingredients are cast in until the spell is wound up, and the weak and terrified mind becomes a converted Methodist." One half of the converts to Methodism in Ame- rica are made at camp meetings. What a contrast to the mild and heavenly conduct of the Redeemer! who, after instructing the multitude in the wilder- ness, fed them, and sent them quietly to their homes. He terrified them not with wild and fu- rious gestures and imprecations : he caused none to faint, to fall down with fear and trembling, and to exclaim, that a lake of fire and brimstone was flaming before them ! He resorted not to such unnatural means to reclaim his auditors from sin and wickedness. His doctrines were mild and peaceable, and his actions corresponded with them. He uttered no thundering denunciations; no blasphemous curses, nor deadly maledictions. He invited the repentant by gentleness and kind- ness ; not repelled him by horrible threatenings. His tongue dropped manna upon all who heard UNIVERSAL BENEVOLENCE. 275 him, and his spirit breathed peace and good-will to all mankind I The Christian religion (says a writer of emi- nence) is in every shape agreeable to the divine justice, which does not punish man for speculative opinions, and particularly for such as are incom- prehensible to all mankind. It is a religion every way worthy of its eternal Author; and we may know by the doctrine that it comes from God. It is a religion for men of sense, for philosophers, for honest men, and comprehensible too by the meanest vulgar without a guide ; a religion of rea- son, free from the blind mazes and studied intri- cacies of designing people, and beneficial to so- ciety at first view. It despises apish gestures and external buffoonery ; and effectually prevents and puts an end to all inhuman fierceness and holy squabbles, too often occasioned by the selfish reli- gions of corrupt priests and enthusiasts. It leaves not unhappy men in perpetual doubts and anxie- ties ; nor tosses and tumbles them, for relief, out of one superstition into another, but esteems them all alike. In short, it is a religion which every honest man would wish it to be a religion of cha- rity and benevolence to all the world! 2/6* EXCURSION UP SAVANNAH RIVER, CHAPTER XXXVIII. Leave Savannah Excursion up Savannah River Inundations Swamp Plantations Alligators Anecdote of an Alligator Terrebins Water Vipers Rattle Snakes Journey through the Woods Black Snakes Variety of Birds Beautiful Plumage An Adventure in the Woods A disinterested Physician Fire in the Forest Immense Body of Smoke- Seasons of South Carolina Cotton Plantations Bad Roads IFaggoners or Crackers Roads of South Caro- lina Arrive at Charleston. AFTER a stay of nearly six days at Savannah, I set out on my return to Charleston, in company with a Scotch gentleman of the name of Chap- man, with whom I had been acquainted some months previous to our meeting at Savannah. I was now happy to have a companion with me, to relieve the tedium of a journey through the lonely pine barrens. We left Savannah about nine o'clock in the morning of the 18th of March, in the mail boat, with the same conductor, and negro boatmen as I came down the river with the week before. The morning was remarkably fine, and SAVANNAH RIVER. 2? the weather so warm, that we found the benefit of a covered boat to screen the powerful beams of the sun from our heads. We were the only passengers ; and we found ourselves equally comfortable with- out the company of strangers, not always the most agreeable companions on a journey. The Savannah river, which waters nearly the whole of the northern frontier of Georgia, is bold and deep ; and from the sea to Augusta, a distance of 2'i6 miles, is navigable for vessels of 70 tons burthen. At that city the falls of the river com- mence ; beyond, the navigation is continued for 60 miles, to Vienna, for boats of 3O tons or more, from whence it is contemplated to open the navi- gation up to Andersonville, at the confluence of Tugoloo and Keowee rivers. These latter are large branches of the Savannah river ; the first be- ing upwards of 200 yards wide a considerable way above their continence; and the latter spreading itself over a greater space. Hence, when the ac- cumulated waters of rain and snow pour down their channels, the adjacent low lands and intervals are overflowed with destructive freshes or inunda- tions. These freshes will sometimes rise from 3O to 40 feet perpendicular above the usual level of the river. In 1701 a very destructive one oc- curred in part of the country; and in 1796 a similar flood poured down the Savannah river, laying the town of Augusta upwards of two feet 278 ALLIGATORS. under water, and damaging goods therein to a large amount. It tore away an extensive bridge near 800 feet long, belonging to Mr. Wade Hamp- ton, which had been thrown over that river from South Carolina, and carried destruction and dis- may before it quite to the town of Savannah. The height of this fresh was supposed to be from 35 to 40 feet at Augusta above its common level. This inundation also occasioned immense damage in South Carolina, where the waters rose to as great a height as in Georgia. Several bridges were car- ried away; and many of the negro huts on the islands and swamp plantations near the coast were torn up with the people in them, and carried by the torrent entirely out to sea. Proceeding up Savannah river we were regaled with a variety of beautiful views. Numerous small islands intersect and divide the river into pretty meandering channels. The shores are mostly lined with large forest trees, and the islands with abun- dance of small shrubs. A few plantations appear at intervals upon the banks, with now and then a handsome house ; but in general we saw only the negro huts. Many of the slaves were at work upon the rice swamps, which are very numerous along the right bank of the river. As we proceeded up the river we saw a great number of alligators of various sizes; the largest ivhich we met with was about eight feet long, and ANECDOTE OF AN ALLIGATOR. 279 from l6 to 18 inches diameter in the thickest part of its body. They were either swimming along shore, with their heads just above water, or were basking in the sun upon the branches of trees which projected into the river. Their colour when just coming out of the water is a dark green, or brown ; but when dry it resembles that of a log of wood. We fired at several, but are not certain whether any were killed, for the balls often re- bounded from their bodies as if they had struck a coat of mail. The eye or the breast are the most vulnerable places. In the upper parts of the river, I am told, they abound in great numbers, and of a very formidable size, growing frequently to the length of eighteen or twenty feet. They are said to be more sluggish and cunning than active or courageous : yet during our passage we had ocular demonstration of the intrepidity of a young one about four feet long. We discovered him lying near the root of a large tree ; the boat approached within a few yards, but was prevented going close to the shore on account of the branches of trees which projected into the river. The man who had the charge of the mail fired at him with a musket loaded with ball. The ball passed just over the alligator, yet he moved not in the least. This made us believe he was dead, as all the rest we had fired at sprang into the water the moment they heard the report of the gun. Mr. Chapman 280 TERREBINS. now fired a large horse pistol with ball, and hit the root of the tree upon which he was backing: yet still the animal never stirred. We then abso- lutely declared him to be dead, and were just mak- ing our way with the boat through the branches of the trees to take him, when behold ! the animal rose up, made a circuit round the tree against which he had reclined, and with the most apparent in- difference ivalked into the water. He then swam slowly off, as if conscious of our inability to hurt him,, and kept his eye steadily fixed upon us. We had not time to charge again; nor indeed had we any inclination, so much did we admire the cool- ness and intrepidity of this little animal. Previous to my seeing the alligators in this river, I had al- ways an idea, from what I had read, that neither they nor crocodiles could bend their bodies; but when we fired at and wounded some that were seven or eight feet long, they twisted their bodies with as much ease,and nearly in the same manner, as a large eel, and plunged into the river. We also saw a great many tortoises or terrebins basking in the sun, like the alligators, upon the trunks and branches of trees that grew in the water along shore. They were of various sizes, and are said to live in harmony with the alligator in the same hole, in which case the terrebins can- not form an article of food for that voracious ani- mal, otherwise they would fly from his presence. WATER VIPERS AND RATTLE-SNAKES. 281 The variety of fish with which the Savannah abounds affords the alligator abundance of pro- vision without infringing the rights of hospitality* Our conductor was a great foe to the alligators, and fired at every one he saw. He told us that he once got a young one in the boat, thinking he had completely killed it. For upwards of an hour it lay motionless ; but, while they happened to go ashore, it availed itself of the opportunity to make its escape by plunging into the river. We were obliged to keep some distance from the trees and shrubs which hung over the banks of the river, as there were a great number of water vipers re- clining upon the branches. They are apt to spring into the boat if it approaches too close, which is dangerous, as their bite is said to be venomous. We killed several of these noxious reptiles, who had coiled themselves up in an easy posture among the branches, for the double purpose of enjoying the warmth of the sun and catching small flies and insects. Besides these vipers, our con- ductor informed us that the shores abounded with a species of water rattle-snake, whose bite was also of a deadly nature. About half- past three in the afternoon we ar- rived at Purrysburgh, after a pleasant excursion of 25 miles up the river, which fully recompensed me for the wet uncomfortable passage I had ex- perienced down the same river the preceding 282 JOURNEY THROUGH THE WOODS. week. We dined at the driver's house ; after which we departed from Purrysburgh in the stage. At one time we intended to have performed our journey on foot ; but on consideration 3Vlr. Chap- man recollected that he had business which re- quired him to be in Charleston as soon as possible, and it would have taken us at least four days to have walked there without inconvenience to our- selves. For my own part, I had already had a pretty good specimen of a pedestrian excursion in the pine forests, and was not eager to have another ; but the road till within ten miles of Charleston was so remarkably straight, smooth, and level, with scarcely a stone, rut, hole, or hillock to impede our progress, that walking, provided the weather were fair, would have been equally agree- able to riding. As the road was the same over which I had travelled but a few days before, there was nothing novel in any thing that offered itself to my notice, except that the increased warmth of the weather had brought out a number of black and other snakes from their holes : they were either running along the ground, or were suspended from the branches of trees. There was also a greater variety of birds, many of them of handsome plumage and agreeable note ; but I had no opportunity to ex- amine them minutely. We stopped about nine o'clock to change horses a TURN PHYSICIAN. 283 at a small log-hut in the woods belonging to a man who had lately arrived there with his family to settle, and clear a portion of land which he had purchased. Mr. Chapman and I alighted from the coach to get some milk from the people: when we entered the hut we found the man lying by the fire upon a wretched bed on the bare earth, unable to turn himself on account of the rheumatism, which had almost taken away the use of one side. He was in great pain, and begged of us to tell him what would relieve the agony he had suffered for more than six weeks. For the first time in my life I became a Physician, and without a diploma from Aberdeen had the temerity to prescribe fomentations with flannels dipped in hot water, and a plentiful ap- plication of oil and hartshorn to be well rubbed by his obedient wife over the parts affected. I had no occasion to write a Latin prescription, as the coachman promised to bring him the articles on his return : neither did I demand the usual fee ; for which, perhaps, I shall be considered by the College of Physicians as an ignorant practitioner. I am, however, in hopes that my advice, gratis, has been of service ; unless, indeed, my patient neglected to have the crevices between the logs of his miserable hut filled up with clay or moss ; for in every part of the habitation the cold wind, night air, dews, and fogs, gained an easy admit- 2S4 ARRIVE AT POCOTALIGO. tance. No wonder he was unable to move for six weeks ! We arrived at Pocotaligo about midnight, an unusual late hour for the Savannah stage, as it has only 24 miles to run from Purrysburgh ; but we had set out very late from Savannah, on ac- count of the tide, and had spent rather too much time in shooting at alligators and snakes, other- wise we should have been there earlier. The coach from Charleston had been in upwards of three hours, and the passengers were gone to bed. As we had to start again at two o'clock, we did not think it worth while to lie down, and there- fore took our seats by the fire-side after supper. At two o'clock in the morning we left Pocota- ligo, and its solitary tavern, without regret. The morning was dark and cloudy, and the driver was just able to see the road; but in the midst of a wood, where the path was so narrow, we could deviate very little from the track without running against the trees. This had nearly happened two or three times, and I expected every moment that we should come to the ground with the loss of a wheel. The sun rose about six o'clock, but it was a considerable time before the dewy vapours, which had covered the ground during night, were di- spersed. About an hour after, while yet in the midst of an extensive pine barren, we were sud- FIRE IN THE FOREST. 285 denly enveloped in what we at first supposed to be a thick fog ; hut as we proceeded further on, we discovered it to be the smoke of a large fire in the forest. No flames, however, were discern- ible any where ; and as we rode on, the smoke continued to thicken, insomuch that we could not see the two leaders; and it was with great difficulty we could draw our breath. Unaccus- tomed to such a scene, Mr. Chapman and I began to hesitate about going any further, for we ex- pected every moment to be surrounded by the flames which had created such an immense body of smoke. Unfortunately, this was the only road, unless we had returned back to Pocotaligo, and gone down the road to Beaufort, which branches off towards Ashepoo bridge; but this would have delayed us a whole dav, and the coachman ex- pected every moment to arrive at a log hut, to change horses, and where he meant to inquire whether the fire extended across the road, and would prevent us from passing. We haxl now rode upwards of three miles through this thick cloud of smoke, and should have passed the hut, had not a negro been wait- ing on the road side for our arrival. Here we alighted while the horses were changing, and went into the hut, which was inhabited by two negroes employed to take care of the horses : they informed us, that the forest had been set on fire 2S6 IMMENSE CLOUD OF SMOKE. a day or two before, to clear the ground of the long grass and brush-wood, and it being very dry weather, the fire had spread further than was in- tended : they did not think that it had reached the road, though the smoke had settled in the forest, in consequence of there being no wind to disperse it. I could not help pitying the situation of these two poor fellows, who resided in the neighbourhood of such a dreadful conflagration. When the horses were put to, the driver got one of the negroes to run before the leaders till we could get clear of the smoke, as the horses, being fresh out of the stable, could not see their way, and were much alarmed. In this manner we rode on for about a mile, when, fortunately, the smoke began to clear away ; the negro then left us, and returned to his hut; but it was a consi- derable distance further before we were entirely free from smoke, and once more in broad day-light. About half-past nine we arrived at Jackson- borough, where we breakfasted : at ten, we pro- ceeded on our journey. The day was extremely fine; it had all the beauty of summer, without its sultry heat ; all the trees and shrubs were in leaf, and many of them in blossom ; the air was im- pregnated with the fragrant perfume of the yellow jasmines, and various species of honey-suckle and woodbine. A variety of beautiful birds enlivened the woods with their gay plumage and cheerful SEASONS OF SOUTH CAROLINA. notes. In short, all nature seemed to rejoice in the return of the most agreeable season of the year, and the only one that can be enjoyed with comfort in the lower part of this State. The winter is certainly warm and moderate, but the weather is unsettled. Trees, shrubs, and plants, are then destitute of their beautiful foliage and fragrant blossoms; and the fields, plantations, and gardens, want their verdant crops, their gay and lively flowers. At that season we see nothing but the deep unvarying tint of pines, firs, laurels, bays, and other evergreens. The summer is too sultry to admit of frequent exposure in the open air, and the autumn generally brings with it, in the country parts, fever and ague, and in the towns, the typhus icterodes or yellow fever. In several of the plantations that we passed, the negroes were busily employed in hoeing and planting. Men and women, boys and girls, were alike engaged; and each had a separate piece of ground marked out for their day's work. When their task is finished, some planters allow their slaves to work for themselves, on small gardens which are usually allotted to them. Where thev have the good fortune to fall into the hands of a liberal-minded man, their situation is far from irksome, and they frequently know nothing of slavery but the name. In such cases, negroes have been known to save up enough from the pro- 288 SLAVES. BAD ROADS. duce of their little gardens and live stock, to pur- chase their freedom, which is generally equivalent to five or six hundred dollars. After passing two or three places, where the trees and fences were on lire close to the road, we arrived at the small tavern or ferry-house, on the border of Ashley river, about two o'clock in the afternoon. Though I could not obtain a morsel of bread, when I passed that way the week before, yet the landlord now contrived to give us an ex- cellent dinner and a good bottle of,London porter. Travellers going to Charleston in the stage always stop at this house to dine; but those going to Sa- vannah dine at Jackson bo rough, where the charges are higher and the dinner worse. Though we had only ten miles further to go, yet, after passing Ashley ferry, the road was so b:d that we did not reach Charleston till near seven o'clock in the evening. The sandy soil, of which the road is composed, is continually ploughed up, and thrown into deep furrows, by the narrow wheels of the country waggons, which are daily passing to and from the city. The waggons carry a load of from two to three tons, and are drawn by four or six horses. In wet wea- ther the clayey roads are cat into deep ruts, and are sometimes rendered impassable by these nar- row-wheeled machines, fifteen or twenty of which are often to be seen following each other in the WAGGONERS. 289 same track. Most of the produce of the upper and interior parts of the State are brought to Charleston by these waggons. The waggoners are familiarly called crackers, (from the smacking of their whip, I suppose). They are said to be often very rude and insolent to strangers, and people of the towns, whom they meet on the road, particularly if they happen to be genteel persons. I have heard of several ludicrous, and some shameful tricks, which these gentry of the whip have been guilty of. There are instances of their having robbed people; but in general they confine themselves to a few mad pranks, which they call jokes. In almost every part of the United States, there seems to be an invincible antipathy between the towns' people and these waggoners, who take every opportunity they can to give each other a thrashing. The waggoner constantly rides on one of the shaft horses, and with a long whip guides the leaders. Their long legs, lank figures, and meagre coun- tenances, have sometimes a curious appearance when thus mounted ; especially if a string of them happen to pass along the road. The roads of South Carolina will admit of car- riages and waggons as far as the mountains ; and cross roads, to and from each court-house, are made throughout the State. In the upper coun- try, the water courses are mostly fordable ^ and VOL. II. U 290 ROADS. / where they are not, they are as in other parts of the State, crossed by bridges or ferry-boats. The roads are made and kept in repair under the direction of commissioners; in the lower country by negroes, and in the middle and upper country by a suitable number of residents in the county or parish through which they lead ; otherwise there is little or no expense attending them. At this time a carriage and four may be driven from any part of the State to the other ; from the sea shore to the mountains, without any other diffi- culty than such as naturally arises in long journeys, and the state of the roads in bad weather. Some few toll-bridges are erected, but the spirit of the people is not yet favourable to these taxes on travelling. LEAVE CHARLESTON. 29 1 CHAPTER XXXIX. Leave Charleston Embark for New York in the Calliope Packet Gale of Wind Drunken Pilot Anecdote of a Negro Pilot Arrival at New York Melancholy Effects of the Embargo Leave New York in the Stage for Boston Pass through Haerlem Newhaven General Bradley The Two Crowninshields Virginian Drams Virginian Fighting Gouging, Kick- ing, and Biting Fight between a German Gen- tleman and a Carolinian, at Monte Video Ar- rive at Hartford Manners of the People of Connecticut Productions General Face of the Country Stafford Springs Handsome Houses and Churches Arrive at Worcester Crim. Con. Universalists Marlborough Dispute about building a Church Congregationalists An American Election Characters of the New Englanders Prejudices of former Travellers Lower Orders The " French Mounseer" Lower Orders of the English Dress and Manners of the New England Females. AFTER my return to Charleston, I continued about a fortnight in that city, during which I had partly formed a resolution to proceed to New York by land, but in consequence of letters which 292 EMBARK FOR NEW YORK. I received, hastening my return to Canada, I gave up the idea, and determined to take a passage in the packet for New York, as the most expedi- tious mode of conveyance. I was thus deprived of the pleasure of seeing the cities of Washing- ton, Baltimore, and Philadelphia, a circumstance which for several reasons I much regretted. On the morning of the 5th of April, I em- barked once more on board the Calliope packet, Capt. Records, and left the harbour of Charleston, with a fine breeze from the southward. We had two gentlemen and three ladies passengers, all of whom were strangers to me. The old Irish razor- grinder, who was passenger with us before, was also on board, on his return to New York, having reaped a very plentiful harvest in Charleston. I had seen him several times in the street, grinding knives and razors, surrounded by a crowd of gaping boys and negroes, who had never seen the like before. The day after our departure we entered the gulf stream ; this increased the rapidity of our way at least three knots, and in less than four days sail we were in the latitude of New York. But a gale of wind coming on from the south-west, we were driven off the coast all night. The two following days were extremely foggy, and the wind unfavourable; but the next morning, the 13th of April, the weather clearing up, we came ANECDOTE OF A NEGRO PILOT. 293 in sight of the Neversink Hills, and in the course of the afternoon took a pilot on board. The fel- low was extremely drunk, and seemed little capa- ble of affording us any assistance. Yet he took charge of the vessel with much confidence, and gave his orders correctly ; not forgetting also to ask the captain for beef, rum, and candles, the moment he put his foot upon deck. These were accordingly handed into the pilot boat, as is the custom on those occasions ; and I doubt much if he would have taken charge of the vessel had his demand been refused. The black pilots in the West Indies are also very troublesome when they come on board, for beef and grog, which it is usually the custom to give them. One day a West Indiaman going into Port Royal, Jamaica, took a black pilot on board. " Give me some beef, massa, me can no take ship safe, widout grog and beef.' 7 "D n you, mind the ship, you black rascal," said the captain, "and when she is safe you shall have what you want." Blackey and his men were, however, very sulky ; one of them sounding with the lead, the captain asked, " What water have you got?" " What water, massa? why, what water do you tink we have got ?" " D n you," says the captain, " I say what water have you ?" " Why, salt water, massa, to be sure." "You black scoundrel," says the captain in a rage, " tell me, again, I say, how much water 294 MELANCHOLY EFFECTS OF THE EMBARGO. have you got ?" " Lord, massa, how can me tell, me have no pot to measure it wid!" I found vegetation at New York a full month behind that of South Carolina. The poplars, and many other trees were not yet in leaf, while at Charleston most of the trees were in blossom, and peas, asparagus, and other vegetables, had been in the markets upwards of three weeks. But to the northward, winter still seemed to linger in the gardens, the fields, and the forests, and the pro- ductions of nature were yet in the bud. Every thing wore a dismal aspect at New York. The embargo ha(J now continued upwards of three months, and the salutary check which Congress imagined it would have upon the conduct of the belligerent powers was extremely doubtful, while the ruination of the commerce of the United States appeared certain, if such a destructive mea- sure was persisted in. Already had 120 failures taken place among the merchants and traders, to the amount of more than 5,000,000 dollars; and there were above 500 vessels in the harbour, which were lying up useless, and rotting for want of em- ployment. Thousands of sailors were either s desti- tute of bread, wandering about the country, or had entered into the British service. The mer- chants had shut up their counting-houses, and discharged their clerks, and the farmers refrained from cultivating their land ; for if they brought LEAVE NEW YORK. 295 their produce to market, they either could not sell at all, or were obliged to dispose of it for only a fourth of its value. In short, go where I would, the people were full of complaints; those only excepted who, hy an unaccountable fatality, ac- quiesced in the measures of government, to the destruction of their own property, because it in- jured their political opponents, and gratified their malice against the English nation. Being anxious to return to Canada, I did not feel an inclination to make any stay at New York, particularly as there was little else to see but gloomy looks and long faces. Having therefore rested myself five or six days, to recover from the effects of the tossing and tumbling which I had sustained during the passage, 1 bade adieu to that elegant city, which I regretted to leave in such a melancholy state of dejection. 1 had engaged a place in Courtland-street, in the mail stage for Boston, and on Wednesday the 20th of April I took my departure about eight in the morning. We proceeded through Chatham- street, and along the Bowery-road. This avenue is remarkable for its width/ and the handsome appearance of its buildings. About two miles from the city all the houses are built in an ele- gant and tasteful manner of wood, painted white, and ornamented with green Venetian shades, neat railings, and small gardens. They stand apart 296 HAERLEM VILLAGE. from each other, and serve as summer retreats for the gentry and merchants of the city, particularly during the sickly season. They are built on a rising ground along the road, and command an extensive and beautiful view of the surrounding country. Passed through Haerlem village, and across the river of the same name, which separates the island of Manhattan or New York from the con- tinent. A good toll-bridge is erected over the river. In the vicinity of this place is the race- ground, where jockies and horse-dealers never fail to take in the flats whenever the races are held. We arrived at Stamford to dinner about two o'clock, having passed through the several villages of Kingsbury, East Chester, New Rochelle, Ma- ronick, Rye, and Greenwich, which last place is situated in the State of Connecticut. The houses were mostly new, all neatly built of wood or brick, well painted, and in excellent order. The country along this road is composed of alternate hills and dales. The soil in many places is ex- tremely rocky and sterile, and in other parts rich and fruitful. A succession of picturesque views delight the eye, particularly to the right. On that side the shores of the continent and Long Island, thechannel, and small islands between; with several handsome streams meandering through verdant meadows and well cultivated grounds, GENERAL BRADLEY. 297 afforded a rich variety of landscapes from every hill we rode over. Having dined, we left Stamford, and proceeded on our journey through Norwalk, Greenfarms, Fairfield, and Stratford ; crossed the ferry at the latter place ; passed through Milford, and arrived at Newhaven about midnight. Newhaven is a handsome town of moderate size, and the capital of the county which bears the same name. It has a harbour for small coasting vessels, formed by an arm of the sea, between the main land and Long Island. The situation is healthy and pleasing ; the streets are intersected at right angles, and the houses are built at considerable distances from each other ; sufficient in many places to admit of several large corn-fields, which thus appear in the middle of the town. The next morning I left Newhaven in the stage, in company with five other passengers. Two of them were Messrs. Crowninshields of Salem, in Massachusetts, whose brother, a member of the House of Representatives, died at Washington, where they had been to attend him during his illness. They were merchants of considerable property, and concerned chiefly in the East India trade. One of the other passengers was General Bradley, a senator in Congress for the state of Ver-^ mont. He had accompanied the Crowninshields 298 GENERAL BRADLEY. from Washington, in consequence of Congress having adjourned for a few weeks. These three gentlemen were all violent anti- federalists, or rather democrats, as they are termed by the opposite party. General Bradley had distin- guished himself by having summoned a caucus of the members of Congress at Washington, in order to recommend Mr. Madison to the people as Pre- sident at the ensuing election to succeed Mr. Jef- ferson. This proceeding was considered to be so unconstitutional that even several of his own party condemned it, and refused to attend. They said that it was an endeavour to bias the sentiments of the people in their choice of a ruler, a measure highly subversive of the freedom of election. From this circumstance the General has ever since been nick-named " President-making Bradley." What- ever violence this gentleman might have exhibited in his senatorial capacity, or political sentiments, I must do him the justice to say that he always abstained from political conversation, though often introduced by the other passengers; and when they sometimes began to be warm with each other, he would beg them to discuss some more agreeable topic, or perhaps interrupt them with a laughable anecdote. Indeed I found the General to be a most agreeable well informed man, possessed of consi- derable humour, with the manners and politeness VIRGINIAN DRAM DRINKING. 299 of a well educated gentleman; and I only re- gretted that we had not the pleasure of his com- pany further than Hartford. The two Crowninshields were sensible men, but possessed all the^political violence of the General, with very little of his forbearance and good hu- mour. They entered upon and often introduced political subjects with an acrimony that could not be agreeable in a promiscous company, where there were others of totally opposite principles and opinions* The General, however, contrived to keep us all in good humour; diverting our at- tention from the virtues of Mr. Jefferson, the out- rages of the English and French nations, to a fa- cetious story or pleasant anecdote. Speaking of the Virginians, he gave us the following specimen of their dram drinking. A gum-tickler is a gill of spirits, generally rum, taken fasting. A phlegm- cutler is a double dose just before breakfast. An antifogmatic is a similar dram before dinner. A gall breaker is about half a pint of ardent spirits. When they inquire how such-a-one does, the answer is "Oh, he is only drinking gum- ticklers!" If he is drinking phlegm-cut ters, or antifogmatics, the case is not so good, and he is soon expected to get to gall-breakers ; but if he is drinking the 300 ANECDOTE OF A GERMAN GENTLEMAN. latter, they consider him as a lost sheep, say it is all over with him, and pity his desperate case. Indeed, a man seldom lives above six months after he has commenced the gall-breaking dram ! Rum, brandy, or gin sling, is a common beverage for travellers throughout the States ; and the stage- coachmen in the course of a journey, take " a special good quantity of it." Sometimes it con- sists only of the liquor and water, sweetened with sugar, and drank cold ; but in general it is made of milk, with ginger or nutmeg grated into it. The General informed me, that the mode of fighting in Virginia and the other southern states, is really of that description mentioned by precede ing travellers, the truth of which many persons have doubted, and some even contradicted. Goug- ing, kicking, and biting, are allowed in most of their battles; and the combatants pride themselves upon the dexterity with which they can pluck out an eye, lite off a nose, or break ajaiu with a kick of their foot. Gouging is performed by twisting the fore finger in a lock of hair, near the temple, and turning the eye out of the socket with the thumb nail, which is suffered to grow long for that purpose. While at New York, I was acquainted with a German gentleman, who had arrived there from the Rio de la Plata, after the loss of that country by General Whitelocke. This gentleman told me AMERICAN FIGHTING, GOUGING. 301 that during his residence at Monte Video he had lived on the most friendly terms with a young gentleman, a native of North Carolina ; but hap- pening one day to quarrel concerning a Spanish lady, who had fascinated them both, they soon proceeded from words to blows ; and, while the German was fighting fairly with his fists, his an- tagonist suddenly grappled with him, twisted his finger in a side-lock of hair, and was on the point of turning the eye out of the socket, when fortu- nately the German gave him a terrible blow just under the jaw; this obliged the Carolinian to let go his hold, but not till he had left a severe cut upon the other's eye-lid by the sharpness of his thumb-nail. He showed rne the scar, which he would no doubt carry with him to his grave. The German gentleman declared that he was so shocked at the unfair and brutal attempt of the American to deprive him of his eye, or perhaps both, that though the latter wished to be friendly with him again, yet he never afterwards could see him but with disgust. We arrived at Hartford about two o'clock, and stopped there to dine. The country through which we had passed this morning was extremely beautiful : we travelled, for the most part, over a succession of lofty hills, commanding extensive views across the country. In the midst of some beautiful plains and valleys appeared the Con- 302 HARTFORD IN CONNECTICUT. necticut river, with its fruitful shores covered with innumerable habitations, surrounded by well cul- tivated grounds, pastures, and meadow lands, or- chards, and gardens; all of which evinced the steady and industrious character of the inhabi- tants. Every mile we advanced afforded us some new objects for admiration ; whether they con- sisted of lofty mountains, fruitful valleys, verdant lawns, meandering streams, rich farms, or popu- lous towns , for they were more or less the mate- rials which composed the scenery along the road to Hartford, and presented a rapid succession of rich and beautiful landscapes. I regretted only that spring had not yet removed the gloomy mantle of winter, and presented to our view the graceful charms and hidden beauties of nature. Our stay at Hartford was too short to admit of my collecting much information concerning the town. It appeared to be composed of regular streets, and well built houses of red brick. Order, neatness, and cleanliness seemed to be a predo- minant feature in the character of its inhabitants; as was the case in all the towns and villages of this state through which I had passed. It is built on the banks of the Connecticut river, and sur- rounded by rich pasture and meadow-ground, well cultivated corn-fields, and neat dwelling-houses. It is the capital of the state of Connecticut, though the meetings of the legislature are divided between MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE. 303 this town and Newhaven. Hartford contains a state-bouse, a bank, museum, some neat churches and meetings, and about 10,000 inhabitants. We left the town about three o'clock, and parted re- luctantly with General Bradley ; who had pleased us by his gentlemanly manners, and entertained us with his facetious and agreeable humour. Our stage and four horses embarked on board o the flat-bottomed ferry-boat ;* and Charon, not content with us, took in another stage and four, in spite of our remonstrances to the contrary, which rendered our passage across the Connec- ticut river extremely dangerous. The waters had risen several feet above their usual level, occasioned by the melting of the snow and ice in the upper parts of the country ; and had inundated the op- posite side of the river, above a mile from the shore. All the houses near the river were sur- rounded, and the farms laid under water. Our ferry-boat had therefore to pass over fences and hedges, and between trees and houses, for more than a mile after we had crossed the river. It was with difficulty the driver could keep his horses quiet ; and one plunge would have upset the boat, and most probably drowned us all. For several miles we passed through a plain level country, well cultivated, and apparently rich and fertile. The people of Connecticut are distin- guished by their industry, sobriety, and oeconomy^ 304 MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE. strict piety and devotion. Travelling on Sundays is not permitted in their state, though strangers often contrive to evade the laws. Elders go about and forbid inn-keepers at their peril to suffer any person to travel ; but the latter generally keep a few horses ready saddled in the stables ; and if a traveller arrives on a Sunday, he helps himself to one of the horses, and goes off by some bye- road. This manoeuvre of the inn-keepers re- sembles that of the Quakers in paying taxes ; " Friend, thee may take, but I cannot give to thee." The inhabitatants are almost entirely of Eng- lish descent; there being neither French, Dutch, Germans, nor other foreigners among them ; and very few even of the Irish and Scotch. The rough, frank hospitality of the English farmer is here generally met with ; and though there are not many who are remarkable for opulence, yet the number is still less of those who are remarkable for indigence. The generality of the people live in easy independent circumstances ; and upon that footing of equality which is best calculated to pro- mote virtue and happiness among society. The population of the state is about 300,000, the ma- jority of whom are Congregationalists, Episcopa- lians, Baptists, Quakers, and Independants. The people are said to be distinguished for their ge- neral information and learning; and the country STAFFORD SPRINGS. 305 abounds with colleges, grammar schools, and vil- lage seminaries. The select men (magistrates) are empowered to levy a fine of three dollars upon every person who neglects to send his children to school. The general face of the country consists of mountains, hills, plains, and valleys; well watered by the Connecticut river, and a variety of smaller streams. The climate is healthy, though liable to the extremes of heat and cold. The principal productions are, wheat, rye, buckwheat, Indian corn, oats, barley, flax, hemp, and vegetables of all kinds. Great quantities of horned cattle, horses, sheep, swine, and poultry, are also raised in this State, of a very excellent kind. Cyder is the favourite beverage of the people ; and large orchards crowded with an immense variety of fruit-trees are attached to every farm in the State. About seven o'clock in the evening we arrived at Stafford, a small village in the State of Massa- chussetts. Since leaving Hartford we had pro- ceeded for the most part through new turnpike roads, where the settlements are yet in their in- fancy. Within a mile of Stafford we passed a mineral spring of some celebrity, to vrhich the fashionables of Massachusetts resort every summer to drink the water. It is only within these few years that the spring was discovered; and a person has built on speculation a large house in its vi- VOL. ii. x 306 SOIL. DRAUGHT OXEN. cinity, where he accommodates the gentry at ten or twelve dollars per week. The situation is wild and solitary, and apparently possesses but few attractions for valetudinarians; yet I am told that a great many resort there every year, some for the benefit of their health) but more because it is i\iQ fashion. The next morning we left Stafford, and pro- ceeded through some new turnpike roads, along which the country is settling fast. In many parts the soil is rocky, and full of loose stones; several cleared spots of this description, I was informed, sold for upwards of ten dollars per acre. This part of the country is mountainous, but frequently interspersed with extensive plains and meadows. Oxen are much used for field labour in the New England States, because cheaper than horses, as they are afterwards fattened for market; and great numbers are exported to the southern States, to the West India Islands, Newfoundland, &c. 1 saw above twelve yoke of oxen dragging a sort of scoop along the road to level the ruts ; behind the scoop large boughs and branches of trees were fastened, for the purpose of smoothing the gravel. We stopped to dine at Brook field, a very pretty village, adorned with a neat church and some handsome dwelling-houses. Throughout the States of Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New York, a remarkable neat and indeed elegant style of archi- HANDSOME HOUSES. 307 tecture and decoration seems to pervade all the buildings in the towns and villages; and I under- stand is more or less prevalent in the rest of the northern and middle States. The houses in the small towns and villages are mostly built of wood, generally one or two stories above the ground floor ; the sides are neatly clapboarded and painted white. The sloping roofs are covered with shingles, and painted of a slate colour ; and with sash win- dows, green Venetian shades outside, neat white railings, and steps, have a pretty effect. Some- times the entrance is ornamented with a portico. The churches, or, as they are oftener termed, meet- ings, are constructed of similar materials; painted white, and frequently decorated like the houses, with sash windows and green Venetian shades. The building is also surmounted by a handsome spire or steeple with one or two bells. A small town composed of these neat and ornamental edi- fices, and situated in the neighbourhood of well- 7 O cultivated farms, large fields, orchards and gardens, produces a most agreeable effect, and gives the traveller a high opinion of the prosperitv of the country, and of the wealth and happiness of its inhabitants. Indeed those parts of the northern and middle States through which I travelled, have the appearance of old, well-settled countries. The towns and villages are populous; provisions are cheap and abundant; the farms appear in ex- x 2 308 WORCESTER CR1M. CON. cellent order; and the inhabitants sober, industri- ous, religious, and happy. At four o'clock we arrived at Worcester. This town is handsome and well built, and consists of one long street of houses. It is the capital of the county of the same name, and contains several respectable stores, shops, inns, and taverns ; two or three places of worship, and a handsome new court-house. As we were to remain here this night, I took the opportunity of walking through the town. The street is of considerable breadth, unpaved ; but has excellent foot-paths on each side. The houses are of brick or wood, and built in that neat and tasteful manner just described. Perceiving the court-house to be crowded with people, I went up stairs, and found they were trying a man, at the suit of the State of Massa- chussetts, for crim. con. It appeared that the pri- soner had been found in company with a black- smith's wife, and the young men of the neighbour- hood had carried them both in procession through the town, on the back of a raw boned Rosinante ; the woman being tied on before astride the horse, and he fastened behind with his back to her. The wags, however, to the number of fifty, had suffered for their frolic, in taking the law into their own hands, and had been fined the day be- fore, some in three dollars, others in ten dollars, according to their circumstances; and this day the UNIVERSAL1STS. 309 prisoner stood trial for his offence at the suit of the State. The trial was not finished when I left the court-house; hut it was supposed that he would be fined and imprisoned. He was a farmer, had a large family, and before this circumstance bore a good character. Some curious remarks were made upon his religion, which was that of an Universalist ; and the judge observed, that it was an excellent faith for such men as the pri- soner, and extremely accommodating ; for they believed that all men would be saved, whatever had been their crimes and offences in this world. Great stress was also laid upon what place of wor- ship he went to; for it seems that some of the meetings in America have no better reputation than houses of ill-fame. Witness the camp-meet- ings, which are attended by all the refuse of the towns, by bawds, pimps, and prostitutes, who all swell the number of converted sinners in that country. The Universalists in America profess very ac- commodating tenets ; tenets which, I cannot help thinking, are very dangerous to the peace and happiness of society. They conceive that every thing is to be accomplished by faith alone. Ac- cording to the information I received from One or two of this persuasion, they do not believe in fu- ture rewards and punishments, but are of opinion that all men will go to heaven, however wicked or 31O MARLBOROUGH. diabolical their acts may have been upon earth. They say that Christ died to save the sinful, and not the righteous; and it is sufficient that they believe it, to be saved. If they commit any sins, they think they receive sufficient punishment if their consciences should be apt to reproach them; not reflecting that if they are tormented in their conscience, it is from the expectation of a future punishment, and of course militates against their own doctrine. Yet they persist in the belief that good works are not. necessary to salvation. If a man, say they, commits murder, and is hung for it, that is a sufficient atonement for his offence; and so with respect to other crimes and punish- ment? in this world. The following morning, Saturday, 23d April, we left Worcester, and proceeded through a beau- tiful well-settled country to the town of Marl- borough, where we changed horses. The houses are built in a straggling manner, and extend the town upwards of a mile and a half. It is remark- able for its two handsome new churches, though one is quite sufficient for the present population of the town. It happened, however, that a dispute arose as to the spot upon which a new church should be built. One part of the inhabitants wished it to be built at their end of the town^ and the other party at the opposite. After rmicl altercation, dispute, and argumentation, in whicl CONGREGATIONALISTS. 311 there were more speakers than hearers, each party resolved to build a church for itself. Their de- termination was immediately put in execution; and the two rival churches arose within half a mile of each other. Both are elegantly neat, but one is rather handsomer than the other, and is su- perior to any country church that I have seen in the States. This one cost nearly double the ex- pense of the other, being built on the surface of a rock, great part of which was obliged to be cut away, to level it for a foundation to the building. It was respecting this rock that the opposition first arose; the other end of the town opposing the building a church upon it as creating unnecessary expense, and that a more convenient and cheap situation might be found. The consequence was, that the town was put to the expense of two churches instead of one. The inhabitants of Marlborough are nearly all Congregationalists. This denomination of Chris- tians practises a form of worship that easily recon- ciles the Presbyterian and Episcopalian to meet in one church. It is in some sort a relaxed presbyterian service. They have no written form of prayer, the service consisting of chapters of scripture, extemporary prayers, and a sermon, with psalms or hymns at intervals. The minister fre- quently reads his discourse, as in the episcopalian churches; and organs are often put up in the 312 MEETING-HOUSES. meeting-house. The prayers of those congrega- tional ministers whom I have heard, have been of that general and tolerant nature which embraces all sects and denominations of Christians, suppli- cating for the safety and welfare of all men, with- out respect of persons. Their discourses were generally of an evangelical cast, but devoid of all absurd tenets, dogmas, and denunciations. Faith was earnestly recommended, but the necessity of good works was strenuously enforced. It is pos- sible that this denomination of Christians has arisen from the want of a sufficient number of places of worship in the new settlements, which obliged many of the inhabitants, though profess- ing various religious tenets, to assemble together in one meeting, and to form their prayers and discourses for the general welfare of the whole congregation, without touching upon the pecu- liarities of either party. In several towns and villages through which I passed, even Baptists, Methodists, and Congregationalists, assembled to- gether in one meeting; but sometimes it was on condition that their respective preachers should perform service alternately. The Americans in the country parts call their places of worship meeting-houses, although they are built with steeples, in the manner of our churches. In the cities, those appropriated to the episcopal form of worship are always called AN AMERICAN ELECTION. 313 churches. The old meeting-house of Marlborough is still made use of, so that the town has now three places of worship for congregationalists. The termination of their dispute, by building two in- stead of one, shows that they are not parsimonious in religious matters. It is surprising they did not put the subject to the vote; but if the voting had been carried on, as it was once in New Jersey upon a similar dispute respecting the building of a new court-house, they would probably have had no church erected at all. The legislature of New Jersey lately passed an act, permitting the inhabitants of Essex county to decide in the manner of an election where a new court- house should be erected. The New- arkites wished to have the election in their town. The Elizabethites were equally anxious to have it in theirs. But the latter, rinding that it could not be accomplished in their favour, fixed on the geo- graphical centre of the county. This election was to be general, and all the polls were to open and close at one time throughout the county. Certain arrangements were made that cheating should not extend beyond certain limits. Accordingly the polls opened, and at it they went heart and hand, with exertions unexampled. Both parties were sanguine, both calculated on the superior exer- tions of their riders. Men, women, and children, 314 AN AMERICAN ELECTION. all voted, old and young. Those who could not walk were carried, and those who were carried generally voted only once. Horsemen and foot- men; horses, carriages, waggons, carts, and wheel- barrows, all were employed, all running helter skelter, pell mell. The wind blew, the dust flew, the whiskey flowed, and all was confusion. At length night came, and the tumult subsided. The ballots were canvassed, and the result was, that the Newarkites had gained the election by a great majority ; how great, is not now recollected, but some say it exceeded the number of legal voters in the county. The Elizabetldtes charged the Newarkites with having cheated beyond the con- tract. This was rebutted by the Newarkites, who charged their opponents with having begun first; and that the scandal was greatly magnified by the attempt being made at a distant and obscure poll, under the idea that it would not be detected; but that they being on the alert, and knowing how such things were done, had kept so good a look-out as to turn it to their own advantage. The conclusion was, that the losers petitioned the legislature to set it aside, on account of its being corrupt. A counter petition set forth that both parties had done their best. The legislature annulled the election, and determined to interfere no further. In New Jersey it has been the practice for female* CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS. 315 to vote at elections; and their dress favouring dis- guise, it is said that some have repeated the vote without detection. From Marl borough we proceeded on our jour- ney through several neat towns and villages, and a well-settled, rich, and fertile country. We were now within a few miles of Boston, and every thing around us appeared indicative of our ap- proach to that rich commercial metropolis. We had an agreeable ride through Cambridge, a kind of suburb to Boston, to which it is connected by a very long bridge across the river Charles. This town contains about 3000 inhabitants, several handsome seats, orchards, gardens, and pleasure- grounds ; three or four places of worship, a court- house, and the celebrated university of Harvard, which is reckoned the best institution of the kind in the United States. This college contains a library of nearly 20,000 volumes, a good philoso- phical apparatus, and a respectable museum. The students amount to about 250, and professors for every branch of the sciences are engaged to com- plete their education. The situation of Cambridge is extremely well adapted to such an .institution. It is placed at a sufficient distance from Boston to prevent the students from having their morals corrupted by the vices of a populous city. It also contributes to their health, and the prosecution of their studies, by a clear, wholesome atmosphere, 3l6 CHARACTER OF THE NEW ENGLANDERS. and calm retreat from the noise and bustle of a commercial town. Through the whole of this journey of 240 miles, from New York to Boston, I had passed over a most beautiful tract of country, which from the manners of its inhabitants, the excellent order and condition of its towns, villages, and buildings, its farms, orchards, gardens, pasture and meadow lands, together with the face of the country, un- dulated with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys, watered by a number of rivers, small lakes, and streams, afforded a variety of the most beautiful landscapes, and strongly reminded me of English scenery. Much has been said by former travellers of the familiarity and rudeness of the American people. I will not attempt to contradict their assertions; but for myself, I must declare, in justice to the American character, that I experienced the ut- most civility and even politeness, from the inha- bitants, in every part of the country through which I travelled. The coachmen were civil, and the tavern keepers attentive; and wherever I had occasion to mix with the country people, I never met with the least rudeness or shadow of im- pertinence on any occasion ; on the contrary, they were civil and obliging. The children would take off their hats, bow, or curtsey, as we passed along the road; and the men would frequently nod PREJUDICES OF FORMER TRAVELLERS. their heads, which, though it carried with it the appearance of familiarity, and certainly was not so graceful as the salutation of the French Cana- dians, yet I firmly believe it sprang entirely from an honest, well-meaning civility. It must be con- fessed, that I saw but little of the character of the country people to the southward ; and nothing of it in the back country, where the civilization of the New England States is said to be little known. But I only pretend to speak of what I have my- self witnessed; and even if I had met with rude- ness from individuals, or been cheated by a sharper, I should not be inclined to charge the whole American people with insolence and brutality, with roguery and imposition. But the Americans are a people like ourselves, who, conscious of the real liberty which they enjoy, boast of it as their greatest blessing. In many men, and particularly the lower classes, this freedom, even in our own country, sometimes degenerates into rude fami- liarity ; but that philosopher must indeed be squeamish, who will not compound with a little rudeness to himself, for the solid acquisition of much substantial comfort and happiness to myriads of his fellow men. Those travellers who visited the United States soon after the Americans had obtained their in- dependence, were swayed by their prejudices for or against that country. The French were ena- 318 PRIVATE AND POLITICAL CHARACTER. moured with their freedom of sentiment and man- ners, so different to the slavish fear under which they themselves lived in Fiance; and were also enraptured with the polite attentions shown them every where they went, on account of the assist- ance their nation had rendered to the States. This naturally biassed them in favour of the Ame- can people, and induced them to write such flat- tering accounts of the country and its inhabitants. The English travellers, on the contrary, could see nothing but rude familiarity and brutal behaviour in the conduct of the people, and no doubt they had some foundation for their assertions: it was natural that the Americans should be elated with the victory they had obtained over their former masters ; and that the lower orders should avail themselves of every opportunity to boast of their success in the presence of an Englishman. Many of the British subjects also left their own country under delusive prospects to settle in Ame- rica ; and, when they met with reverses, were too apt to return home full of spleen and inveteracy against the people and the country. If they had been the dupes of a few knaves, the American people were branded as rogues ; and the rudeness, imperfections, and chicanery of individuals were set down to the account of the whole nation. Sometimes they published their complaints to the world, and these becoming current, have tended PRIVATE AND POLITICAL CHARACTER. 319 to increase that animosity and disgust which the American revolution had engendered, and which were already too prevalent in England. Since then a long peace has calmed the minds of the people, and agriculture, commerce, and the arts, have introduced a degree of civilization, which has in some measure recalled that politeness and urbanity of manners which the violence of the revolutionary war had almost banished from the country. Allowances, however, ought to be made for a new country, where the people are thinly scattered over an immense surface of the earth. They have few opportunities of enjoying that social and friendly intercourse which soften and polish the manners of a nation: where they do in some degree possess those advantages, as in the New England States, we find that they more nearly assimilate with ourselves. Allowance ought also to be made for the peculiar character of their constitution, which allows them to riot in freedom of sentiment and almost licentiousness of debate. The scurrility of the press is deplored even by themselves ; and is unfortunately too much in the hands of European traitors, who have fled to America to escape the punishment due to their crimes. On political subjects the Americans are headstrong and violent: like us, they are noisy and blustering in their complaints against other nations. Among themselves, they are jealous of 32O LOWER ORDER OF THE AMERICANS. all encroachments on their liberties, and tenacious of their political opinions even to a fault; but view them in private life ; in their hours of re- laxation, in the circle of friendship, and it will be found that they do not merit the opprobrium that has been cast upon their character. When politics were not the subject of conversation, I could discern no distinction between a federalist or a democrat: but talk of the conduct of a Jeffer- son or Adams ; of the English or French nations, and open war would immediately commence, not only between rival politicians, but between friends and acquaintances. Yet, why should we blame their conduct in this respect? we, who are for ever at issue respecting the merits of the ministry and the opposition! It is true, that our political sentiments are expressed in the public papers with less of that coarse vulgarity which characterizes the American prints ; but our editors frequently belabour each other with a quantum sufficit of gentlemanly abuse. As to the lower order of the Americans, or la- bouring part of the community, much of their rudeness and coarse behaviour has worn off; and there are few now who are not as attentive and civil as those of Europe. But why should Eng- lishmen be such sticklers for politeness and urba- nity of manners in America, when the lower orders of their own country have only within these few LOWER ORDER OF THE AMERICANS. 321 years emerged from a rude and barbarous conduct to foreigners that was disgraceful to the nation ? Indeed, complaints on that head come with as ill grace from us as they do from Frenchmen who have been fraternizing with the dregs of the popu- lace during the revolution. It is scarcely thirty years ago that a foreigner could not walk along the streets of London without being molested by the populace, who would hoot at and ridicule him for his dress, and sometimes even add violence to their taunts and menaces. An instance of this kind happened to a relation of mine, who during the American war was taken prisoner by the French in India and carried into the Mauritius, where he was confined upwards of four years. Having at length obtained permission to return to England on his parole, he arrived in London in the complete costume of a Frenchman, which in those days was particularly remarkable. His long queue reached half way down his legs ; his hair, powdered and frizzled, was covered by a small cocked hat. He wore a curious cut coat with large broad stripes, and plated buttons nearly the size of a crown-piece : with breeches, stock- ings, shoes, and buckles of singular fashion. In this dress he was obliged, after landing from the vessel in the river, to walk through Thames- street, where he was immediately followed by a posse of carmen and porters shouting n. Y 322 FRENCH MOUNSEEK. hooting at the " French mounseer" as they called him. For some time he only turned round occa- sionally, and answered their abuse in the French language; but this caused them to be more inso- lent, and one of them at length went up and jostled him off the curb-stone, and was preparing to use further violence, when my relation seeing a large mob collecting round him, thought it was a good opportunity to punish the insolence of the brute. He accordingly appealed to the by-standers in English, stating that he was no Frenchman, but a countryman of theirs, and had had the misfor- tune to be taken by the French, and confined four years in prison, from which he was just released : that he had not yet been able to procure an English ilress, as he had but a few minutes before landed from the vessel ; and asked them whether it was generous to ill-treat their countryman in distress ? The mob, with all that vacillation for which they are remarkable, no sooner found that he was an " Englishman" than they applauded his speech, and immediately proceeded to take summary ven- geance upon the insolent carman. They accord- ingly dragged him to a neighbouring pump ; and, in their zeal for administering justice, gave him a complete ducking, though but the moment be- fore they had joined in the general shout against the " French mounseer" " Such is the lightness of your common men." 1 In those days it will there- NEW ENGLAND FEMALES. 323 fore appear that foreigners had greater reason to complain of the brutal behaviour of the lower order of the English than ever we have had to complain of the Americans; and the knowledge of this circumstance might at least make us look with a more favourable eye upon the faults of other nations. The females of the New England states are con- spicuous for their domestic virtues. Every thing in their houses has an air of cleanliness, order, and ceconomy; this displays the female character to the greatest advantage. The young women are really handsome. They have almost all fair com- plexions, often tinged with the rosy bloom of tiealtli. They have generally good, and some- times excellent teeth. Nor did I see more in- stances to the contrary among the young women of America, than are to be met with in England. Their light hair is tastefully turned up behind, in the modern style, and fastened with a comb. Their dress is neat, simple, and genteel; usually consisting of a printed cotton, jacket, with long sleeves, a petticoat of the same, with a coloured .cotton apron, or pincloth without sleeves, tied tight, and covering the lower part of the bosom. This seemed to be the prevailing dress in the country places. Their manners are easy, affable, and polite, and free from all uncouth rusticity : indeed, they appear to be as polished and well Y2 324 DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE bred as the ladies in the cities, although they may not possess their highly finished education. Yet in the well settled parts of New England the children do not want for plain and useful instruc- tion ; and the girls, especially, are early initiated in the principles of domestic order and ceconomy. At the taverns and farm-houses, where we rested on the road, we found the people extremely civil and attentive. We were treated with as much respect as if we had been at our own houses ; and the landlord, his wife and daughters, waited on us in the most obliging manner. I do not mention this as a solitary instance, it was general at every house where we stopped ; neither have I drawn my conclusions merely from the reception I met with at taverns and other places of public resort, but from my observations upon the people in ge- neral, with whom I had frequent opportunities of mixing, whether they belonged to the highest or the lowest orders of the community. I believe it is generally allowed, that for a traveller who wishes to make himself master of the real character and disposition of a people, it is not sufficient that he associates only with the grandees of a nation ; he must mix with the plebeians, otherwise he acquires but false ideas of the country and its inhabitants. fC The great mass of nations," says Dr. Johnson, " are neither rich nor gay. They whose aggregate constitutes the people, are found in the streets and NEW ENGLAND FEMALES. 325 the villages, in the shops and farms ; and from them, collectively considered, must the measure of general prosperity be taken." From these I have judged of the real character of the Americans; and J found it as difficult to discover a single particle of rudeness in the behaviour of the men, as it was to discover an ugly face or bad teeth among the young women. ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. CHAPTER XL. Arrival at Boston Agreeable Situation Beacon Hill -The Park East Boston Longtvharf- Market Places New Hotel Population of Boston Religion Manners of thejirst Settlers Rigidity of Character Governor Hancock His Partiality to Negroes and Animosity to Theatres satirized by the Echo Visit to the Theatre and the Circus Captain Girod Co- lonel Moulin Captain de Frotle Their extra- ordinary Escape from Fort Joux in Franche Comtc -- Literature Newspapers Military Funeral Manufactures Contrast between the 'northern Merchant and the southern Planter to Bunkers Hill Plymouth. WE entered Boston about two o'clock in the afternoon of Saturday, 23d April. The stage stopped at Lamphear's hotel in Hanover-street, where Captain Crowninshield, his brother, and I alighted. As I intended to stay but a few days in Boston, I did not think it worth while to go to a private boarding-house., and therefore took up my residence at this hotel, which the Crownin- AGREEABLE SITUATION. 327 shields recommended to me as the best house in the town. Early hours, I perceived, were prevalent among people of business in Boston; for we had scarcely left the stage when we sat down to dinner with upwards of 30 gentlemen. Here, as at other hotels in the States, the boarders in the house and single gentlemen in the neighbourhood take their meals at one public table at a certain hour. Out dinner consisted of almost every thing the markets pro- duced, and was served up in excellent order : there were also four or five waiters in attendance. After dinner the Crowninshields set out for Salem in one of the stages which runs between that place and Boston, a distance of 17 miles. , These gen- tlemen, though rather dogmatical in their political tenets, were notwithstanding pleasant sensible companions; and after travelling with them during three days, I parted from their company with re- luctance. They pressed me very much to pay them a visit at Salem ; but I was prevented from accepting their polite invitation by my anxiety to return to Canada as soon as possible. I remained in Boston only six days; it cannot therefore be expected that I can furnish a very full and detailed account of the town and its inhabi- tants ; but what little time I had was spent in vi- siting every place worthy of notice, and observing the manners of the people. 328 BEAUTIFUL VIEWS* Boston is an irregular built town, situated on a peninsula whose surface is broken by small hills ; and, except where the isthmus appears in sight, seems completely environed by a beautiful river. The town of Boston cannot boast of much uni- formity and elegance ; but with respect to situa- tion it is extremely beautiful, and well deserves the description which Young gives of a populous city. " How wanton sits she, amidst Nature's smiles ! Nor from her highest turret has to view But golden landscapes and luxuriant scenes." From an elevated part of the town the specta- tor enjoys a succession of the most beautiful views that imagination can conceive. Around him, as far as the eye can reach, are to be seen towns, villages, country seats, rich farms, and pleasure- grounds, seated upon the summits of small hills, hanging on the brows of gentle slopes, or reclin- ing in the laps of spacious valleys, whose shores are watered by a beautiful river, across which are thrown several bridges and causeways. These bridges connect the minor towns of Cambridge, Charlestown, &c. with Boston, and are built of wood, upon a vast number of piers of equal height; their length is from 2000 to 4000 feet. They are painted yellow, kept in excellent order, lighted by lamps, and have a foot path on each side, railed BEACON HILL. 32$ in from the carriage way. There is a toll-gate on each side, and foot passengers passing out of Bos- ton pay one cent, which is something more than a halfpenny. That portion of the town called West Boston contains most of the dwelling-houses of the gentry and principal merchants. A number of elegant buildings of red brick have within these few years been erected ; and wide spacious streets, consist- ing of handsome private houses of similar construc- tion, are yet forming throughout that end of the town. These streets are mostly in the vicinity of Beacon Hill, a rising ground of considerable ele- vation, situate behind the new state-house. On this hill a monumental pillar is erected, with a gilt eagle at the top, bearing the arms of the United States, On the pedestal of the column are inscriptions commemorating the most remark- able events of the Revolution. This pillar is a mi- serable and paltry structure, being built of brick and plastered over with mortar, the greatest part of which has been broken off by the wind and rain, and left the bare bricks exposed to view. It should either be repaired, or one more suitable to such a wealthy and enlightened city erected in its place. A handsome stone or marble column can- not surely be thought too costly to commemorate events which have raised their country to the rank, 33O THE PARK. of an independant nation, and established their liberties upon a sure and permanent basis. The new state-house is, perhaps, more indebted to its situation for the handsome appearance which it exhibits, than to any merit of the building it- self. It is built upon part of the rising ground upon which Beacon Hill is situated, and fronts the park, an extensive common planted with a double row of trees along the borders. The lower part of the building is constructed in a plain and simple style of architecture, with red brick, and surmounted by a large circular dome of the same materials, coloured yellow. The whole has a neat and ornamental appearance ; but if stone had been substituted for brick, it would have then been a structure worthy of admiration, and honourable to the people of Boston. The Park was formerly a large common, but has recently been enclosed, and the borders planted with trees. On the east side there has been for many years a mall, or walk, planted with a double row of large trees, somewhat resembling that in St. James's Park, but scarcely half its length. It affords the inhabitants an excellent promenade in fine weather. At the bottom of the park is a branch of the harbour ; and along the shore, to the westward, are several extensive rope- walks built upon piers. At high water boats and barges can OLD TOWN. 331 be admitted between the walks, which are all roofed in, and have large brick warehouses at the eastern end. Considerable quantities of excellent cordage are manufactured at these walks, and form an article of exportation to the other States, In the street next the mall, at the upper end of the Park, there is a stand of hackney coaches, su- perior in every respect to vehicles of that descrip- tion in London. The horses and carriages of some of them are equal to the best of our glass coaches. The other portion of Boston, which may with propriety be called the Old Town, is the seat of trade and commerce, and contains numerous streets, lanes, and alleys, crowded with stores, shops, warehouses, wharfs, and piers ; taverns, coffee-houses, and porter-houses; insurance of- fices, banks, and state buildings ; churches, cha- pels, and meetings. The extremity of this part of Boston is connected with Charlestown by a hand- some bridge, similar to that which connects West Boston with Cambridge, but not so long. .. Of late years considerable improvements have taken place in East Boston. Towards the har- bour an extensive range of lofty warehouses have been erected upon India Wharf: they are built of red brick, with much neatness and uniformity. Offices for the merchants are below, and the upper part of the building is appropriated to the 332 LONG WHARF. reception of goods. A short distance from these warehouses to the northward, is Long Wharf, or Boston Pier, which extends from the bottom of State-street, upwards of 1,750 feet into the har- bour. Its breadth is above 10O feet. On the north side of this immense wharf is a range of large warehouses, extending the whole length of the pier. Most of the old buildings have been pulled down, and handsome warehouses, similar to those on India Wharf, erected on their sites. The ground floors of these warehouses are occu- pied by wholesale or retail stores, merchants* offices, &c. The upper parts are appropriated to the warehousing of goods. At the end of this pier there are upwards of seventeen feet water at ebb tide. On the south front of the warehouses there is a landing place of thirty or forty feet in breadth ; but behind, on the north of the build- ings, the landing-place is scarcely six feet wide. Both sides are generally occupied by the coasting vessels. Along the water side there is a great number of other piers, which extend a considerable way into the harbour ; these form as many open docks, or slips, which admit vessels of almost every size and draught of water up to the very doors of the houses. Viewing this sight from an eminence it has a sin- gular and beautiful effect ; the crowded masts and NEW STREETS AND MARKETS. 333 jigging of the vessels appear in the midst of th streets, and the colours of all nations are seen fly- ing over the tops of the houses. Several new streets, consisting entirely of large wholesale and retail stores and warehouses, have lately been built between State-street and the In- dia Wharf. Very few of the merchants dwell in these streets ; they generally have private houses in West Boston, about the neighbourhood of ttie Park and Beacon Hill. Boston is well paved, and has excellent foot-paths of flag stones. The streets, which in the old town are generally narrow and irregularly laid out, are for the most part clean and in good order. The markets are situated near each other, close to the water-side ; and are sup- plied with every description of provisions in the greatest plenty, and at a moderate price. But they are crowded and confined by the surrounding buildings, and the narrow lanes and alleys in the vicinity. This, together with the number of shabby shops and alehouses in the neighbourhood, gives to this part of the town an unseemly appearance, which is still further increased by the litter and confusion unavoidable in a market-place. As the city continues to increase in popu- lation and riches, new markets will doubtless be opened in other parts of the town. Improvements are still going on ; and if Boston increases as ra- pidly as it has done since the revolution, every 354 NEW HOTEL. part of the peninsula will be crowded with build- ings. On the south side of State-street, near Cornhill, a very lofty and extensive hotel is building on a grand scale, under the direction of one of the principal merchants in the town, though I believe several others have shares in the concern. The person who is to manage the business is a Mr. Hamilton, who formerly kept a large hotel in Montreal, where he actually became a bankrupt from keeping too good a house. He possesses that liberal and generous spirit which will not suffer any thing to be wanted or complained of; and, unfortunately, there was too little liberality in . Montreal to recompense him for his well-meant endeavours to please. I took the opportunity one day of going over the building with Mr. Hamil- ton ; the plasterers and carpenters were at work, and he expected that it would be finished in the course of three or four months. The house is seven stories high, and stands on a large extent of ground. It contains about 200 separate chambers for gen-r tlemen ; several long rooms for assemblies and dinner parties, an extensive bar and coffee-room below, with some smaller apartments for the use of the landlord and his family. This hotel, if pro- perly conducted, will far exceed any thing of the kind in the United States, and perhaps be equal in accommodation, as it is already in size, to any POPULATION. CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 335 house of that description in London. The old post-office in State-street, which stands before the building, is to be pulled down, and the business of the office removed to the hotel, which will then be viewed to advantage from State-street, and form a very noble ormament to that part of the town. The population of Boston, according to the census of 1800, was 24,937; about three years after it amounted to 28,OOO; and very lately it was computed to be upwards of 30,000. The majority of the people are Congregationalists ; the remainder consist of Episcopalians, Baptists, Quakers, Universalists, Roman Catholics, Me- thodists, and Sandemanians. They have twenty places of worship, of which nine belong to the Congregationalists, and four to the Episcopa- lians. The inhabitants are distinguished for their do- mestic habits, regularity of living, integrity in their dealings, hospitality to strangers, strict piety and devotion, and respect for the moral and social virtues; upon which depend the happiness and well being of a community. The people of Boston, and of New England in general, were formerly remarkable for a punctilious rigidity of character that differed but little from the manners of the Quakers. They were the im- mediate descendants of men who had fled from 336 GOVERNOR HANCOCK. persecution in England ; and, as if emigration had soured their dispositions, they in their turn became religious tyrants and persecutors, and committed the most extravagant outrages. In the course of time these puritanical follies wore off with the in- creasing prosperity of their new settlements ; and their frequent intercourse with men of more mo- derate principles begat in them a greater degree of toleration, and gave them a taste for the innocent amusements of polished society, It was not, however, without a long and arduous struggle that a theatre was erected, and plays in- troduced into Boston. In the year 1 750 the legis- lature of the province of Massachusetts' Bay passed an act to prevent stage plays, and other theatrical entertainments, as they tended to increase immo- rality, impiety, and a contempt of religion ; and in 1792 we find Governor Hancock recommend- ing, in a speech to the Senate, the punishment of those who had violated the laws in this respect; for plays had been performed in Boston under the title of " moral lectures : " but it seems that even that disguise was not able to smooth over what the Governor conceived to be immoral, and dangerous to society. This severity of Governor Hancock against the representation of plays in Boston brought upon him the castigation of the writers in the Echo, who availed themselves of a ball which the Go- UNFORTUNATE WOMEN. 337 rernor gave to the negroes of the town, after the abolition of slavery in Massachusetts, to satirize his partiality to negroes and his animosity to plays. In spite, however, of magisterial opposition, the theatre maintained its ground. Since then, the vast influx of riches into the country, produced by the extensive commerce which the people of Boston have carried on with all the world, lias brought with it the fashionable manners of Eu- ropean cities, and in a great measure expelled the former severity of character peculiar to the people of New England. O If it be true, that until within these few years prostitutes were almost unknown in Boston, and that at the present day their number exceeds one thousand, nearly a thirtieth part of the whole population we may easilv perceive the inroads which riches and luxury will make in the morals and manners of society. In New York, the number of prostitutes, and ladies living under the protection of gentlemen, amount, I am told, to a sixteenth part of the population of that city. I know not whether these estimates are founded on truth, as no census of that description of fe- males has ever been taken; and I derived my information only from common report. At all events, it is certain that their number has greatly increased of late years ; and it remains to be seen, VOL. n. z 338 THE THEATRE. how far the theatre and other places of public re- sort may have operated in contaminating the morals of society, and contributing to the number of unfortunate women. The Monday after my arrival, being the last night of the company performing at the Boston theatre for that season, I availed myself of the opportunity, and went to the house in company with some other gentlemen from Larnphear's. Jt was the benefit night of Mrs. Powell, one of the principal actresses; and unfortunately for her, it was a very rainy night, in consequence of which the house was by no means full. The lower tier of boxes was, however, crowded with genteel people ; but there appeared to be very little dis- play of the beauty and fashion visible at New York. The theatre is about the size of Astley's amphitheatre ; but very indifferently decorated, and badly lighted. The price of admission is very little less than that of the London theatres. One of our modern comedies was tolerably per- formed, and succeeded by a pantotnimical olio that was remarkable for nothing but bad dancing, miserable tricks, and paltry scenery. Mr. Usher was the principal performer in the comedy, and indeed the only one who displayed any degree of ability beyond mediocrity, though he is considered only as a second rate actor. A Mrs. Stanley re- cited the epilogue : I was told that she is an En- THE CIRCUS. 339 glish lady of rank, but I do not remember the title ; she is a favourite actress. Mr. Fennel, who has lately retired from the stage, was the principal performer, and considered by the Bostonians as equal if not superior to Cooper. He has since opened a classical seminary on the opposite side of the harbour for the education of young gentle- men preparatory to their going to the University. There is also a circus or riding-school in Charlestown ; and while I was in Boston, Bres- chard and Pepin's company of equestrians exhi- bited feats of horsemanship in that place. I went to view the performance one evening, in company with an officer of the British army who was also a resident at Lamphear's hotel. The building is constructed entirely of wood, of a circular form, and very extensive. It has an upper and lower tier of seats all round ; and this night being for the benefit of Madame Breschard, the house was crowded to an overflow. The seats on the upper tier were a dollar, and those below half a dollar. The equestrian company consisted of more than twenty persons, who were dressed in imitation of the French imperial guards. The performances commenced with manoeuvring as a troop of horse on parade; after which they performed some very dexterous feats, such as riding on their head, and ou tip-toe, forming a pyramid of twelve or fifteen men on five or six horses at full speed. Madame Z 2 34O CAPTAIN GIROD. Breschard also greatly distinguished herself; leap- ing her horse through large hoops raised several feet from the ground ; and riding astride in the dress of a mameluke. An exhibition of fireworks closed the entertainments of the evening. CT The British officer with whom I became ac- quainted at Lamphear's, belonged to the 101st regiment at Halifax ; his name was Girod. He had been an officer in the French royalist army of La Vendee ; which service he quitted at the peace of 1801. On the breaking out of the war in 18O3, he together with Colonel Moulin, Capt. de Frotte, and some other chouan officers, were arrested and confined by order of Bonaparte in Fort Joux, situate in Franche Comte, on the frontiers of France and Switzerland : after a con- finement of eleven months they made their escape, by working through the stone walls of their pri- son, and got safe to Vienna. They arrived in England in 1805, and Captain Girod received a commission in the lOlst regiment stationed at Halifax. I could not learn upon what business he had visited the United States ; though, from some hints that he dropped, I understood it was of an official nature. He was on his return to Halifax, having spent the winter at Washington, where he had been very intimate with Randolph, Key, Gardenier, and others of the federal mem- bers of congress. ' LITERATURE. BEAUTY. 341 Boston contains several considerable book-stores; and many works are annually published in that city, but they are mostly from English authors. Original works, indeed, seldom make their ap- pearance in the United States, except in the form of essays, magazines, arid small periodical publi- cations. A taste for literature is, however, rapidly diffusing itself over every part of the Union; and Boston yields to no city in the States for its ex- tensive trade in books. Several daily and weekly newspapers, and a few magazines and reviews are published in Boston. Like those of other towns, the newspapers are attached to the principles of the two parties which at present divide the people; and in their political animadversions they are by no means tender of the character of their opponents. In Boston, and most of the New England States^ the federalists have a majority: in the other states, the parties are either nearly balanced, or the numbers are greatly in favour of the antifede- ralists. There is not that assemblage of beauty and fashion to be seen in the streets of Boston as is to be met with in those of New York. Yet the Bostonian ladies are not deficient either in per- sonal charms or mental acquirements ; but they appear to partake more of the reserved and sedate manners of the English, than the ladies of New 342 MILITARY FUNERAL. York, who possess somewhat of the lively flip- pancy of the French character, softened however by the becoming modesty of the English female. The ladies of Boston do not possess such an agreeable lounge for shopping as the ladies of New York, who in the wide avenue of the Broad- way can display their fine forms to the utmost advantage. The streets of Boston, where the principal shops and stores are situated, are narrow and confined, and in the neighbourhood of all the bustle and confusion of mercantile specula- tion. The difference of population between the two cities, as well as the manners of the people, may also in some measure account for the small display of beauty and fashion compared to that at New York. I had an opportunity during my short stay of seeing one of their military funerals. The de- ceased was an officer of rank in the militia, though a very young man ; and being nearly related to some of the first families in the town, his funeral was numerously attended. All the volunteer com- panies were drawn out on the occasion, and marched in the procession with the body, fol- lowed by a string of generals, colonels, majors, captains, and subalterns belonging to the militia, in full uniform. After them came the deceased's friends, some in mourning, others in their usual dress; the rear was brought up by more than ANECDOTE OF MR. AUSTiy. 343 fifty gentlemen's carriages and hackney coaches, above half of which were empty. The Governor of the State, Mr. Sullivan, was in his carriage, followed by a number of other gentlemen of rank. This procession, which as near as I could judge might contain about a thousand people, extended along three or four stieets. I viewed it from State-street, and did not trouble myself to follow it to its destination. I remarked that one of the volunteer companies was dressed in long white coats, red facings, white breeches and gaiters, and cocked hats, somewhat similar to the French uni- form in tne reign of Louis XVI., and adopted per- haps as a compliment to their old friends and allies. This stately funeral put me in mind of some observations of Mr. Austin, an American gentle- man of Boston, in a work of his entitled " Let- ters from London in 1802 and 1803," where he laughs at the gorgeous funerals of the English people ; their cavalcades of mutes, mourners, mourning coaches, and nodding plumes; and, pre- tending not to know the meaning of it, mistakes the hearse for a baggage waggon. It is possible, indeed, that he might be ignorant in this respect, as he evidently was in many others. He received, however, a smart retort from a man in the street, who said to him when he asked what the proces- sion meant, "You may know one day, if you do not come to the gallows /" 344 MANUFACTURES. Mr. Austin having also seen written up at an undertaker's, " Funerals performed" affected to believe that they were of a theatrical nature. In short, his remarks answer no other end than merely to show that he can treat a solemn sub- ject with ridiculous levity; and that, like an un- dertaker, he can be merry even at death's door. But I am astonished that he should complain of the parade and show of our funerals, when they are so far exceeded by those of his own country ; at least in pride and ostentation, but not in de- cent solemnity. Except to very eminent public characters, the funerals in England are attended only by a few of the nearest friends or relatives of the deceased ; whereas, in the cities of America, hundreds of people are invited; even strangers, and others who perhaps had never seen the de- ceased in the course of their lives, are all col- lected together to follow him to the grave, and proclaim by their numbers his merit and virtues. If this does not savour of ostentation, I would ask for what purpose thirty empty hackney coaches paraded at the military funeral in Boston ? The principal manufactures of Boston are rum, beer, paper- hangings, loaf-sugar, cordage, playing cards, sailcloth, wood-cards, spermaceti and tallow candles, and glass ; besides cabinet-work, coaches and carriages of every description ; hats, shoes, boots, and other articles of domestic use. The RELIGIOUS WORSHIP. 345 town is governed by select men, chosen annually ; with other subordinate officers. Notwithstanding the Bostonians have consider- ably relaxed from their former rigid manners, and given into the gaiety and amusements of modern times, yet their scrupulous and devout observance of religious worship still continues with little variation ; and they perhaps afford beyond any other people, the pleasing proof that social amuse- ments and diversions are not incompatible with, nor need interrupt, the more important and solemn duties which we owe to our Maker. Sundays are observed with the strictest decorum ; the town appears as if completely deserted ; and scarcely a person is seen walking the streets, except in going to or coming from a place of worship. Indeed all the towns and cities which I have visited in the United States are extremely exemplary in this respect, and present none of that noise, bustle, and driving about, so common in the streets of London on the sabbath day. This strict observance of religious duties dis- poses a stranger to judge favourably of the moral character of the people ; nor has he any reason to alter his opinion, until he hears of so many unfortunate females in the cities. They, however, may be a necessary evil in large communities, and perhaps interfere but little with the general char racter of the people; yet 3 if their numbers are 34.6 NORTHERN MERCHANT. really so great as they are said to be in the United States, it can hardly be denied that a propor- tionate relaxation of morals must have taken place. At the same time it must be confessed, that the Americans have relaxed but little from that outward display of piety and devotion which, though it may not always come from the heart, yet certainly conduces to the good order and well being of society. Hypocrisy is the tribute which vice pays to virtue ; and if the vicious assume its garb, they must at least conduct themselves with external propriety. There is a material difference in point of cha- racter between the people of the northern States and those to the southward ; there also exists a considerable spirit of rivalry, jealousy, and oppo- sition between them. The former (speaking in general terms) are a plain, honest, and industri- ous people; regular in their habits, punctual in their payments, and strongly attached to agri- cultural and commercial pursuits. Before the embargo, their merchants traded with all the world; and the spirit of commercial enterprise had diffused itself in an extraordinary manner over those States. Their ships covered the ocean, and transported the commodities of their own country, and of other nations, to every quarter of the globe. A considerable share of their ex- ports was furnished by their own portion of the SOUTHERN PLANTER. 347 Union ; but the greater part was supplied by the southern States. The latter, however, had but few ships of their own, and cared not who were the carriers, so that they could dispose of their cotton, tobacco, and rice. They would have been equally satisfied to sell their produce to foreigners, and let them take it away in their own vessels, as to sell it to the northern merchants; and it is this sort of policy which is said to guide Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and others of their party even at this day; but I cannot bring my- self to believe that there is any foundation for such an assertion. It is true the southern planter acquires his wealth not by the sweat of his brow like the New Englander, but by the labour of his negroes. He lolls at his ease in the shady retreat, drinking, smoking, or sleeping, surrounded by his slaves and overseers, who furnish him with the luxuries of life, without the necessity of his leaving the piazza. The northern merchant, on the contrary, is strenuously exerting himself from morning till night; exercising his faculties, expanding his mind, and enlarging his ideas by continual inter- course with people of every nation, and corre- spondence in every part of the globe. The planter- is deprived of these opportunities of mixing with the world, and acquiring an extensive knowledge of the interests of States. Hence he suppose^ 348 RIVALRY OF THE STATES. that to raise a crop and sell it sufficiently benefits the country ; nor can he conceive what difference it will make, whether it is taken away in a ship of his own nation or that of a foreign state. He also looks upon the merchant or trader with con- tempt, as a mere plodding fellow who is making a fortune by his assistance; he even hates him, when by careful industry and ceconomy the mer- chant can leave off business, and become, by the aid of his superior wealth and abilities, a more important personage in society than himself. Such are, in all probability, the causes which have created the existing spirit of rivalry, jealousy, and opposition between the northern and southern States ; and which, if not quickly extirpated, may one day or other occasion a separation of the Union. The American States may defy the world while they remain true to themselves; like the bundle of sticks in the fable, they cannot be broken so long as they are united; but if they se- parate, they will assuredly be destroyed in detail. A few days before I left Boston, I took a walk to Charlestown for the purpose of visiting Bun- ker's hill, so celebrated at the commencement of the revolutionary war. The scene of action was more properly on an eminence called Breed's hill, as it was there that the Americans threw up their fortifications, and not on Bunker's hill, which stands at some distance from it. On this BUNKER'S HILL. 349 memorable spot, a monumental pillar, with an urn at top, has heen erected to the memory of Gene- ral Warren, who commanded in the redoubt on the day of action, and fell covered with wounds. The pillar was erected by the free- masons, of whose society he was a member. It is, however, but a paltry memento to the memory of such a man, being, like that on Beacon hill, constructed of brick and plaster. It is already in a state of dilapidation, though not more than fifteen or six- teen years have elapsed since its erection. The remains of the redoubt are still visible, but will not be so a few years hence, as houses are now building very fast on that side of Charles- town ; a small part only is inclosed round the pillar, and is said to be public property ; but it is a question whether even that small portion of this memorable spot will be preserved from the un- hallowed fangs of the builder. I met there a man who fought on the day of action under Ge- nerals Putnam and' Warren. He told me, that till that day he had never visited the spot since the engagement. He declared it was with diffi- culty he could recognise the place where he fought; he however recollected some parts, which he pointed out to me. At the time of the battle he was only nineteen years of age, and many that fought on that day were much younger. The American general ordered them to lie down and 35O PLYMOUTH. preserve their fire, while the British troops ad* vanced up the hill, until they could see the whites of the soldiers' eyes. This was strictly complied with, and at the moment that the troops thought themselves almost in possession of the redoubt, a murderous discharge of artillery and musketry opened upon them, killed and wounded an im- mense number, and drove the rest down the hill in confusion. They however rallied and returned again to the charge, and were the second time dispersed. It was not till the third attack that they were enabled to gain possession of the heights ; and even then it is said that they would have failed, if the ammunition of the Americans had not been exhausted : several parts of the for- tification were gained only at the point of the bayonet. After the Americans were driven away from this eminence, they disputed the possession of se- veral others ; and at length took post at a con- siderable distance on a height which they had previously fortified, and where the main body of the American army was posted. Here their ge- neral regaled them with several hogsheads of beer after their fatigues. About fifty miles from Boston is situated the spot where the first colonists of New England landed in l6'20. They were men who had quitted England on account of religion, and sought in PLYMOUTH.. SUPERSTITION. 351 the New World that liherty of conscience which they were not allowed to enjoy in their own coun- try. Their number did not exceed 12O, and they arrived on the coast, it is said, without a fixed determination where to settle. Some writers however assert that it was their intention to have settled on the Hudson river, or the country near it; but .hat the Dutch, having formed a settlement there, bribed their pilot to carry them further to the north, so that they fell in with the land about Cape Cod, and took shelter in that harbour. The harbour is good, but the country is barren and sandy. This w r as discouraging, but it was too late in the season to put to sea again: they coasted about in their boat till they found a place more proper for a plantation. Thither they brought their ship, and determined to take up their abode, though the harbour was not so good as the former. This place having a resemblance to the port which they had sailed from in England, they called New Plymouth. The rock on which the first colonists landed is still carefully pointed out to strangers. The sea had, since that time, thrown up sand over it to the height of twenty feet ; but at an early period of the revolution the sand was cleared away, when the rock was found split into two parts : this was looked upon as an omen of the separation of the colonies from England. The smallest part was, with considerable difficulty, re- 352 PLYMOUTH. moved to the market-place of the town of Ply- mouth, where it now remains as a memento of the landing of their forefathers, as well as of the me- morable contest in which they obtained their in- dependence. In the first instance they J/ed from the chains of despotism, and in the second they broke them. The view of Plymouth which ac- companies this work was taken from the sketch of an American gentleman, with which I was favoured. The memory of the landing of the first colonists of New England is preserved by the in- habitants of the States, who have formed a society for the purpose of celebrating that interesting event every year. MR. JEFFERSON* 353 CHAPTER XLI. BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES and ANECDOTES of some of the most eminent PUBLIC CHARACTERS in the United States. Thomas Jefferson James Madison John Adams Aaron Burr Blannerhasset General Ha- milton John Randolph Gar denier Albert Gal la (in Thomas Addis Emmet General Moreau Madame Jerome Bonaparte Robert R. Livingston Joel Barlow Chief Justice Jay Commodore Barron Dr. Mitchill General Pinckney James Munroe Commerce of the United States Exports and Imports for 1807 Duties upon Imports at the principal Sea-port Towns Salaries of the principal Officers of the Government Names of the separate States be- longing to the Federal Republic General sta- tistical Fiew of the United States for a period of Tiventy Years. MR. JEFFERSON. THE character of this gentleman has been placed in such opposite lights by his friends and enemies, VOL. n. 2 A 354 MR. JEFFERSON. that it is difficult for an impartial person to ascer- tain which side is most entitled to credit. From one party he has experienced the grossest flattery, and from the other the most malignant invective; hy the one he is described as the wisest and most virtuous of men, by the other he is denounced as a traitor to his country. Now in a nation like the United States, where party spirit and prejudice repeatedly burst asunder the strictest bonds of friendship, and even family union, facts will be exaggerated to suit the views of the contending parties; and where facts cannot be found, inven- tion will necessarily supply their place. To hear both sides of the question, and to take the me- dium, is, in such cases, perhaps, the most likely method of coming at the truth ; but in the con- duct of public characters there will always be cir- cumstances that will speak for themselves, inde- pendent of the flattery of friends, or of the calum- niating prejudice of enemies. Without entering, therefore, into the cabals of either party, I shall endeavour to set before the reader those plain facts and circumstances in the course of Mr. Jeffer- son's public career, that will best explain his real character, and show whether he merits the ap- plauses or execrations which have been so abun- dantly bestowed upon him. Mr. Jefferson is a native of Virginia, and said to.be between fifty and sixty years of age. In his MR. JEFFERSON. 355 person he is tall and of slender make ; possessed of a fresh complexion, and of a clear and pene- trating eye. His manners and deportment are modest and affable. An enemy to luxury and parade, he lives at Monticello in the simple and negligent style of a man wholly devoted to rural and philosophical pursuits. When the sitting of Congress required his presence at Washington, he carried with him the same negligent simpli- city. In the plainest garb, and unattended even by a single negro, he would ride up to his splendid mansion, tie his horse to the paling, and immedi- ately receive the visits of the foreign ministers and others who had business to transact with him. This appearance of republican simplicity so much praised by Mr. Jefferson's admirers is, however, more the offspring of a philosophical spirit than an unambitious mind. What cares a man of learning and research for dress or appearances? He prides himself upon despising them ; but he has not the less ambition for that. So it has been with Mr. Jefferson, who upon various occasions during his public career, while he carried the outward air of an unassuming patriot, was secretly em- ployed in promoting his own aggrandizement. With respect to the charge brought against Mr. Jefferson for deserting the government of Virginia at the most critical period of the revo- lutionary war, it has been flatly contradicted by 2 A 2 356 MR. JEFFERSON. some, and is at best but feebly supported by his opponents. At all events, he is not the first pa- triotic philosopher and orator, who, when the enemy appeared, abandoned his trust and fled from the danger that surrounded him. His resignation of the office of Secretary of State in 179 4 > previous to the western insurrec- tion, is less favourable to his reputation than even the abandonment of his post in Virginia, if we can put any faith in the intercepted dispatches of the French minister Fauchet. Speaking of the probability of the insurrection (which afterwards took place), Fauchet says, " Jefferson, on whom the patriots cast then* eyes to succeed the presi- dent (Washington), had foreseen this crisis : he prudently retired, in order to avoid making a figure against his inclination in scenes the secret of which will soon or late be brought to light." These instances (says an American writer) show Mr. Jef- ferson to want firmness; and a man who shall once have abandoned the helm in the hour of danger, or at the appearance of a tempest, seems not fit to be trusted in better times ; for no one can know how soon, or from whence, a storm may come. The great and principal accusation, however, against Mr. Jefferson is, that he promoted the re- volutionary war, opposed the British treaty, and became the determined enemy of Great Britain,, in order to cancel the debts which he and his family MR. JEFFERSON. 35? -owed to British merchants. This, if true, would certainly be the most serious charge that he has to contend with, inasmuch as it would affect his cha- racter, not merely in a political but in a private point of view ; and give a death-blow at once to every thing that could be said in favour of him as an honest and virtuous man. But I am happy to say that I never could trace this disgraceful charge to any satisfactory source ; it seemed to rest merely upon the ipse dixit of his enemies, and is flatly contradicted by his friends. That there were some differences of opinion between Mr. J. and his creditors, respecting the payment of the interest of his debts during the war, is evident from a letter which was afterwards written by him, when minister at Paris, and read in evidence at the fe- deral court in Richmond, Virginia, in 1797. That letter sets the private character and prin- ciples of Mr. Jefferson in a more favourable light than all the fulsome panegyrics which his party have ever lavished upon him ; and there can be no hesitation in saying, that if his propositions were acceded to by his creditors, and fulfilled by him, not the smallest slur can attach to his cha- racter, with respect to the payment of his debts ; and that consequently the insinuations which have been thrown out as to his having refused his assent to the British treaty, because it compelled him to 358 MK. JEFFERSON. pay those debts, are false and scandalous inventions of his enemies. In 1780 and 178! Mr. Jefferson was governor of Virginia. During that period he wrote his Notes on Virginia, at the request of the King of France. They were not intended for the press, yet they found their way into print. The picture of the American Indian is no doubt rather too highly coloured, as well as many other passages concerning the New World ; this Mr. Jefferson would most likely have avoided, had he originally intended his work to have been published ; but at that period it was the policy and interest of the United States to represent itself in the most fa- vourable way to the French monarch. The author of the Notes on Virginia was therefore guilty of a very pardonable fault in setting every thing rela- tive to his own country in the best possible point of view. Policy rather than truth guided his pen on that occasion. In 1783 he produced his form of a Constitution, which was approved by many respectable members of the Congress, particularly Franklin, Madison, &c. who were for a more limited and simple form of government than that espoused by General Washington and his party. The latter wished for a Constitution modelled upon that of Great Britain ; the former, steady to republican prin- MR. JEFFERSON. 359 eiples, were desirous of a pure democracy , in which the voice of the people should everywhere prevail. How far such a form of government would have suited the Americans may now be pretty well as- certained. At this period Mr. Jefferson was a member of Congress ; and in March 1786 we find him in England, where he no doubt arranged with his creditors those propositions which he made them in the course of the next year, while ambassador at Paris. His very presence in England must com- pletely refute the calumnies of his enemies respect- ing the payment of his debts ; for surely he would never have dared to show his face in the country after endeavouring to cheat its merchants of their property. During Mr. Jefferson's residence in France he was attentive to every thing that could promote the welfare of his country. He even availed him- self of every opportunity to increase his own stock of information, that when he returned home lie might employ it for the benefit of those around him. His philosophical researches and discoveries in various branches of science, since then, have proved that his time was not spent in vain. In 1789 Mr. Jefferson quitted his diplomatic functions in France, and returned to his native country. A new constitution having been formed 360 MR. JEFFERSON. and agreed to by the several states, he was ap- pointed secretary to the federal government under President Washington. In this situation he had many arduous duties to perform, particularly du- ring the period of the French minister Genet's intrigues ; but he seems to have conducted him- self on that occasion in the most irreproachable manner. His retirement from office in 1794 has, however, given rise to much invective against him ; and though the ostensible motive was said to be the improvement of his estate, and the regulation of his domestic affairs, it is generally thought that he withdrew himself to avoid an interference in those measures which, though he saw the necessity of them, yet were calculated to render him unpo- pular with his party '. He also saw that the cup of humiliation was on the point of being presented to President Washington, and that he would most probably decline another election. Mr. Adams was the only one, except himself, likely to succeed to the presidency. The contest would therefore lie between them alone, and it was necessary that Mr. Jefferson should at such period strengthen himself in the good opinion of his party. Hence, when the suppression of the western insurrection, and other unpopular acts of the government ne- cessarily took place, Mr. Jefferson, who, in the language of Fanchet, " had foreseen this crisis" MR. JEFFERSON. 36l was peaceably seated in his philosophical retire- ment; and while the federalists were losing ground, his party were strengthening its numbers. In 1797 Mr. Adams succeeded to the presi- dential chair, and Mr. Jefferson to the vice-pre- sidency. For the first two or three years Mr. Adams was popular, and the federal party nume- rous ; but from various causes which 1 have men- tioned in another place, the antifederalists or de- mocrats became so strong towards the close of Mr. Adams's presidency, that Mr. Jefferson was chosen at the ensuing election by a very consider- able majority. His party now rose superior to their opponents, and the government offices were filled with them, to the entire exclusion of fede- ralists and federal principles. The sentiments of Mr. Jefferson on that occa- sion were expressed in his inaugural speech. Whe- ther or not he has acted up to those professions, his administration of the general government for eight years will sufficiently show. As his conduct during that period is not viewed in the most fa- vourable light by the federal party in America, or by the people of England, I shall briefly notice such parts as appear to have given the most um- brage. Mr. Jefferson is charged with partiality to the French government, and his conduct has in a great pleasure given rise to strong suspicions of that 36' 2 MR. JEFFERSON. nature ; hut whether his apparent partiality arises from a love or fear of the tyrannical ruler of that country is somewhat doubtful. Yet it is certain that he sent considerable sums of money to France, under the pretext of having purchased Louisiana and the Floridas, whereas in fact neither have been bought. The Floridas are not even claimed by the Americans, and are still in the possession of the Spaniards ; and as to Louisiana, the United States have nothing more than a sort of commercial agency at New Orleans ; for the city does not be- long to them, as will appear from the following curious observations of an American writer: " It is a matter of mirth what erroneous notions the ivorld has relative to the cession of Louisiana to the United States. A thousand people imagine at this moment that New Orleans belongs to us, whereas New Orleans still belongs to His Catholic Majesty the King of Spain ; it is comprehended in the tract reserved by him." The opinions which the Americans also have of the French inhabitants of Louisiana is singular enough. One of their writers, speaking of the in- crease of their regular army on the frontiers of Louisiana, says : " The additional force was ne- cessary and politic; the Creoles and French in- habitants of that country have always been, and must be for many years to come, governed with the fear of the bayonet ! They have no rational MR. JEFFERSON. 363 idea of liberty even if they were honestly disposed." What a specimen this for the Canadians, should a war ever take place between Great Britain and the United States ! I cannot help thinking that Mr. Jefferson du- ring his administration was swayed more by fear than a love of France. His great plan of govern- ment was oeconomy, and a desire to remain at peace with all the world. The Americans have for nearly twenty years prospered beyond measure upon the troubles which have distracted the other parts of the globe. Riches have poured into their country, while other nations have been fighting for their very existence, or have sunk under the murderous fangs of an ambitious monster. Mr. Jefferson, if he had the smallest spark of virtuous patriotism in his bosom, could not but view with pleasure the happy state of his own country, flourishing in an unexampled manner amid the downfall and crash of nations. I will do him the justice to think that he has viewed it in this light, and that he has been reluctantly dragged into the snares that have at various times been laid by the wily Corsican. Anxious to preserve that state of things under which his country had so long prospered, he has perhaps succumbed to the tyrant further than pru- dence should have permitted, and endeavoured to buy off hostilities by almost unjustifiable means. 364 MR. JEFFERSON. This seeming subservience to the views of France has no doubt given rise to jealousy on our part, and created many of those difficulties which yet stand in the way of an adjustment of the differ- ences between the two countries. Without pretending to decide whether Eng- land or America is in fault, though most impar- tial people are of opinion that both are in some measure to blame, yet I cannot think so meanly of Mr. Jefferson's character as to suppose that he would have suffered his enmity to England or his predilection for France to involve the two countries in a war : it would have proved destructive to that oeconomical system which is declared to have been his favourite plan of government, and would have completely thrown America into the arms of France. The spirit of rivalry, jealousy, and oppo- sition, which certainly exists between the south- ern planters and northern merchants in the United States, has led people to suppose that Mr. Jeffer- son and his party, in laying on the embargo, have voluntarily submitted to a great sacrifice, even of their own property, in order to be revenged of their opponents and of the British nation, and to ingratiate themselves with Bonaparte. Hence the embargo is held out as a retaliating measure against both belligerents, and is so considered by our go- vernment ; yet it is roundly asserted that Mr. Jef- ferson's object in laying on the embargo on their MR. JEFFERSON. 365 shipping was for the purpose of annihilating the commerce of the States, and reducing the mer- chants and traders to agriculturists. How this charge can be reconciled with Mr. Jefferson's known sentiments and actions during his administration I cannot easily perceive. It is well known that the flourishing state of the treasury for the eight years which he was in power was occasioned solely by commerce. Why therefore he or his successor Mr. Madison (who follows in his steps) should wish to annihilate such an easy, agreeable, and popular source of revenue, is surely unaccountable; but that the nation should quietly submit to such proceeding would indeed be passing strange. The embargo, while it lasts, certainly annihilates every branch of foreign com- merce carried on by the States ; but it cannot be argued from thence that Mr. Jefferson or Mr. Ma- dison aims at the total destruction of commerce. It has no doubt been the source of much alterca- tion with the belligerents, but the United States still continued to prosper; and though the mer- chants and the government grumbled, and vocife- rated their complaints against the English and French outrages, still they filled their pockets and their treasury. Hence it is difficult to conceive for what good purpose the American government can aim at the destruction of their commerce. During Mr. Jef- 36*6 MR. JEFFERSON. ferson's administration it entirely paid the ex- penses of the nation, and diminished the national debt. Agriculture was relieved from the burthens of the state; while commerce, which bore them all, prospered beyond the most sanguine expecta- tions of its admirers. To destroy, therefore, this profitable source of revenue, would be to throw the burthen of taxation wholly upon agriculture, to which it is said Mr. Jefferson is warmly at- tached. Such a proceeding would argue not only an ignorance of the true interests of his country, but even a want of common sense. Either, there- fore, the accusation against Mr. Jefferson must be false, or his plans must be at variance with his in- clinations, and with the solemn declaration which he made in his inaugural speech. With respect to the embargo and non-impor- tation act, which many believe to be the com- mencement of this system of politics, it must be confessed that appearances are greatly in favour of the assertions of the federal party. Yet if the destruction of commerce was solely the object of these measures, surely they would not be approved of by so many merchants. It is true they may be democrats, and they may feel much pleasure in revenging themselves on Great Britain, whose commerce and manufactures are materially affect- ed by those acts ; yet, with every allowance for their patriotic feeling on this head, it would sup- MR. JEFFERSON. 36? pose more than Roman virtue, to believe them capable of sacrificing their best interests merely to annoy their political opponents, their own countrymen too! Ask a democratic merchant, who has yet a fortune to make by commerce, whether he will give it up for ever, to gratify such a feeling, or to further Mr. Jefferson's plans for making the United States a Chinese nation f There is not one who now supports that gentle- man, or his measures as followed up by his suc- cessor, but would answer in the negative. Mr. Jefferson's great object is to encourage the agri- cultural interests of his country, in preference to commerce and manufactures. It is even said, that he would rather that foreign nations should take away the produce of the country in their own vessels, in the same manner as the Chinese trade with others, than that the Americans should be engaged in shipping, which he looks upon as the cause of all the differences that have taken place between his country and the belligerent powers of Europe. Such a sentiment is worthy of a philosopher, but not of a politician ; and I doubt much if the Americans would ever consent to abandon their shipping. It is this opinion, no doubt, which has given rise to the assertion that Mr. Jefferson wishes to annihilate commerce. This has gone abroad in order to depreciate his character, though every American possessed of 368 MR. JEFFERSON. common sense ought to know, that without com- merce and barter agriculture could not exist to any extent beyond the mere demands of their own people. But that shipping is not necessary to an agricultural nation, we have only to turn our eves to the Chinese, who, without a single ship, trade with every quarter of the globe; and live undis- turbed by the wars and disputes which afflict other nations. To wish to make America such a nation, is excusable in a philosopher, " Who would, with such perfection, govern, Sir, To excel the golden age ! " Mr. Jefferson, it will be allowed, possesses great abilities ; and I have no doubt that, for the most part, his actions have been influenced by a regard for the welfare of his country. It is however confessed, even by the warmest of his admirers, that when he invited Thomas Paine to America, "with prayers for the success of his useful labours" he committed a very indiscreet act ; and there cannot be a greater proof of it, than the general detestation and contempt in which Paine was held by every respectable inhabitant of New York, where he resided. Not the most zealous partisan of Mr. Jefferson will notice him in public; and even those who are so lost as to admire his writings, are ashamed to be seen in his company. The conduct of the people in this respect is highly MR. JEFFERSON* 36Q pi*aise-worthy, and is a severe rebuke to Mr. Jef- ferson for having invited such an infamous cha- racter into the country. Mr. Jefferson also, by his patronage of Duane, the Irish editor of the Aurora, and giving him a colonel's commission in the new regular army that he raised, has consi- derably lessened himself in the esteem of the re- spectable part of the American people. His en- couraging General Wilkinson in seizing unoffend- ing inhabitants on suspicion at New Orleans, transporting them two or three thousand miles from their homes, and then setting them at liberty without a trial, because no charges could be sub- stantiated against them, must also be considered as an arbitrary stretch of power, exceeding the limits authorized by the constitution. These in- discretions, coupled \vith his embargo and non- importation acts, and his pusillanimous fear of, or improper partiality to, France, have not only tended to diminish his popularity, but have sunk the American character in the eyes of Europe. Mr. Jefferson's party has yet a majority through- out the country, and he quitted the presidential chair with eclat ; but I question whether he re- tired with " the reputation and the favour which brought him into it" VOL. II. 2 B 370 MR. MADISON. MR. MADISON. THIS gentleman, who is now President of the United States, is considered as the pupil of Mr. Jefferson. He was but a youth at the early part of the revolution, yet was actively employed under his great leaders, Franklin, Jefferson, and others, in promoting the views of the republican party. His name appears as one of the depu- ties from Virginia in 17&7, for the purpose of forming a new Constitution ; after which he was variously employed in the subordinate depart- ments of the government, particularly during the secretaryship of Mr. Jefferson in 1793, when he brought forward his project of a commercial dis~ crimination, for the purpose of imposing heavier duties on foreign goods, and promoting domestic manufactures. The French minister Fauchet says that Mr. Jefferson was the real author of the proposition thus introduced by Mr. Madison: at all events it is certain that the former gentle- man, in his capacity as secretary of state, had previously made a report to Congress on the sub- ject of commerce in the autumn of 1793- In that report, Mr. Jefferson proposes the en couragement of domestic manufactures, and certain restrictions upon foreign commerce, particularly upon that of Great Britain, who it seems had im- MR. MADISON. 371 posed high duties on some of the American pro- ductions, and excluded others altogether from her ports. At that time there was no treaty of com- merce between the two countries. Mr. Madison's proposition was therefore brought forward rather as a measure of retaliation than to favour any of the views of the French faction ; though, in some measure, it unavoidably had that effect : consequently it excited the violent opposition of the federal party, and was ultimately negatived* Every country, however, possesses a right to re- gulate its commerce in whatever manner is most to its own advantage. Great Britain had dorle this, and it was proposed that America should do the same; nor can I see in what shape either Mr. Jefferson or Mr. Madison can be charged with partiality to France on that score. The federalists, however, persisted in the opinion, that " their real object was to promote and foster the languish- ing manufactures of France^ by an exclusion of those of Great Britain, at the expense of the United States." Fortunately for both countries, a treaty was shortly after concluded by Mr. Jay, who had been appointed envoy to England for that purpose; and thus the commerce and pro- ductions of each nation were put upon a reciprocal footing, without resorting to unpleasant and irri- tating measures. From that period until he became secretary of 2 B2 37 2 M*R MADISON. state in Mr. Jefferson's presidency, Mr. Madirsor? bore no very conspicuous part in .public affairs; but on his entering upon that important office, his name became familiar to all who interested themselves in the affairs of America and the twa great belligerent powers of Europe. The repeated disputes, and consequent explanations and nego- tiations, which have taken place between the three nations for several years past, and which are as far from an amicable adjustment at this day (1813) as they were seven years ago, have certainly given Mr. Madison full employment in his official capa- city, and made him known to the world in the character of a diplomatician. The abilities which he has displayed are of no mean stamp ; but he has exhibited in his diplomatic style of writing a studied obscurity and an intricate verbosity which seem to carry with it a desire in the writer to puzzle, perplex, and prolong the discussion of a business, which ought rather to have been can- didly, fairly, and briefly stated, in order to its being brought to an immediate adjustment. It has confessedly been the policy of Mr. Jef- ferson, and is also the policy of Mr. Madison, his successor, to negotiate rather than fight: hence we have an elucidation of the motives which have hitherto baffled the attempts of the British g< vernment to settle our disputes with America; for, had such a settlement taken place as we desired^ MR. MADISON. 373 the United States would inevitably have been plunged into a war with France. This it has been Mr. Jefferson's policy to avoid ; in doing which, a show of hostility was necessarily obliged to be kept up towards England. Whether Ame- rica has acted wisely in so doing, is a question which principally concerns herself. Her com- merce is already annihilated by the embargo ; from which she suffers more than either of the belligerents. In the course of the disputes between the two parties on their differences with England and France, they have generally defended/ the pro- ceedings of that nation to whom they were at- tached from political or party motives ; but this contest has been carried on chiefly by newspaper politicians, and a few factious demagogues, mostly French or British renegadoes, whose inflammatory writings in favour of French principles have been imprudently patronized by the democratic Ame- ricans, and hence their party has incurred the severe but just animadversions of the federalists. As to the great body .of the American people, I firmly believe they are attached neither to En- gland nor France, further than their own interest leads them ; or, if any preference does exist, it is in favour of England, with whom they traffic to a greater extent than any other nation in the 374 MR, MADISON. world, and with whose interests their own are so closely blended. Their peculiar form of government, however, renders them liable to be divided in favour of one or other of. their principal statesmen who offer themselves as candidates for the presidency. Hence they become split into parties, and range themselves under their favourite leaders. Euro- peans settled in the country, - as foreigners or adopted citizens^ naturally attach themselves to that side which is most congenial to their politi- cal sentiments; and the imprudent length which many of them have gone in divulging their opi- nions, has not only disgraced those who were connected with them, but has injured the American character in the eyes of foreign na- tions. An American writer, speaking of the impress- ment of American seamen by the British ships of war, acknowledges that protections are indis- criminately granted to foreigners in the American service. " It must not be forgotten," says he, " that certificates bearing testimony of a seaman's being an American citizen are very easily obtained by a little hard swearing. A dollar and a false oath very often transform a foreigner into an Ame- rican; and if this ready-made countryman of ours be impressed into a British ship, we clamour MR. MADISON. 375 loudly about the cruelty and injustice of British naval officers. " Not many months since, an English lad not quite nineteen, who had deserted from a British man of war, wished to go out from New York to the East Indies, as seaman, with an American captain. The captain represented the danger of his being impressed by the British, and advised him at all events to go and get a certificate of his being a native American. The seaman followed this advice, and returned within a few hours, flourishing a certificate testifying that he was born in America. The captain asked him how he got it. The seaman told him, that he went into the street and found an Irishman whom he asked to go along with him to the proper officer, and swear that he was born in America ; to which the Irish- man agreed, and the sailor got the certificate. The captain asked him how much he gave the Irishman. Two dollars, says the sailor. That was too much, replied the other, you should have got him to do it for half. " Why," says the sailor, " I tried to beat him down to a dollar; but he in- sisted upon it, that two dollars were little enough in all conscience for a false oath, and that he would not perjure himself for less!" / Speaking of the probability of a war between England and America, he observes, that " no- thing is to be feared from an invading army, as MR. MADISON. it would be useless, and must end in the destruc- tion of the men who are debarked. No army could act effectually, and the woods would be beset with riflemen : nor would the British have occasion to land a single man upon our coasts ; the bombardment and laying in ashes of all our principal towns could be effected with the utmost ease ; because they are entirely defence- less. But this would be a wanton and unneces- sary outrage ; and the British would most effec- tually insure all the advantages of the war by blockading all our ports, by destroying all our foreign commerce; which would abundantly en- rich them and make us poor indeed. The foreign commerce destroyed, government must derive its revenues from the farmers ; and in what must they pay the taxes? will it be the rude produce of their land? will the executive subdue the enemy with potatoes and turnips? The government may issue its paper money; but I think, after the ex- ample of the depreciation of paper- money, and its consequences during the revolutionary war, the people will not be very ready to place much con- fidenca in it. Foreign loans she cannot raise ; and the sequestration of British property will be retaliated. In short, America has every thing to lose, and Great Britain nothing to gain !" Such are also the opinions of all men of sense in the United States. It would indeed be a la^ MR. MADISON. 3/7 mentable event were the two countries to be again involved in a destructive war, which could benefit neither, and must be highly ruinous to both. It would be a poor consolation to us, that we had destroyed the commerce of that rising country, when we had perhaps ruined ourselves x in the attempt, and converted the Americans into eternal enemies. If we think to sever the Union, and to take the New England States once more under our government, we shall find ourselves greatly mistaken ; for -any attempt of that kind would only tend to reconcile their differences among themselves, and join with more unanimity against us. " Differences," says Dr. Johnson, " are never so effectually laid asleep as by some common calamity. An enemy unites all to whom he threatens danger." No form of government in the United States can be better adapted to our interests than the present; it insures peace with other nations, and Jays claim to no other aggrandizement -than that which is effected by fair commercial exertion. It would be an unfortunate event for us, if the different States were to fall out among them- selves, and dissolve the Union ; for the French would be more likely to get a footing to the southward, than ever we should to the north- ward. Philanthropy might indeed weep, if such an event was to take place ; for that fine portion MR. ADAMS. of the American continent would, if divided into separate governments, become distracted by jea- lousies, and fall a prey to the intrigues of foreign nations, which might ultimately lead to their subjugation. I have, however, too high an opinion of our government to think that they would ever enter upon a war with America, but with the most heartfelt regret. They must know and feel the value of her friendship, and that a war would inevitably throw her into the hands of France, I should also hope that there is no real American who would plunge his country into a war with us, but upon the most unavoidable necessity ; nor that would be vile enough to attempt to dis- solve that Union of the States, which has been so happily cemented by the great Washington, Were there one to be found who could be guilty of such baseness, I should be inclined to say with one of our poets " Blast the traitor And his pernicious councils who for wealth, For power, the pride of greatness, or revenge, Would plunge his native land in civil wars ! " JOHN ADAMS. IT is one of the misfortunes of a statesman's life, that he never can possess the unqualified ap- MR. ADAMS, 379 probation of the public ; for there ever have ex- isted, and always will exist, a contrariety of senti- ment and difference of opinion among people, as to the abilities of their rulers. A man in public life may possess what is called popularity, which apparently carries with it the approving voice of the whole: but that is far from being the case; and it has frequently happened, that the most popular character has been compelled to drink the bitter cup of humiliation to the very dregs. This is too often occasioned by a factious spirit of opposition on one part, and a capricious desire of novelty on the other. His enemies endeavour to deprive him of his authority, for the purpose of getting into power themselves ; and his friends, satiated with the contemplation of his virtues, or tired of their subservience, are anxious to set up a new idol in his place. Thus it is, that between friends and enemies, the man in public life, after enjoying years of popularity and applause, often retires from his post with diminished favour and reputa- tion. This heart-rending humiliation is often experienced in those countries where public men are obliged to court the approbation of the mul- titude, rather than that of the sovereign. In re- publics they have to study the pleasure of the people only ; in limited monarchies they have to look for approbation of their measures to the king as well as the people: but in despotic monarchies 380 MR. ADAMS. it is sufficient that " LE Roi LE VEUT." Since the establishment of an independent government in the United States of America, theie is no coun- try perhaps, with the exception of revolutionary France, where the caprice and vacillation of the people have been exhibited in a greater degree than in those States. They have been tossed to and fro, and almost torn to pieces by a variety of factions at different periods ; and are at this day separated into two great parties, each of which are subdivided into smaller factions; under their par- ticular leaders, who are severally aspiring to the presidency. 7'he great Washington, whom they and all the world at one time united to applaud and honour, experienced the frowns of fortune at the close of his public career: he retired from the presidential chair just in time to avoid the dis- grace of losing the next election. The subject of the present memoir, John Adams, who was one of the foremost in the cause of liberty, lost the high honour of a second election; and Mr. Jef- ferson, though fortunate enough to leave behind him a successor after his own heart, yet retired from office with diminished lustre: he would never have been elected again. The origin of the two parties may be dated from the period of adopting the new Constitution. Peace had no sooner been restored to the country, than the Americans perceived the defects of their MR. ADAMS. 381 existing government. The powers of Congress were too limited; it was even incapable of en- forcin' obedience to its own laws; for the confi- o dence which had been reposed in it by the people during a season of danger gradually subsided, and their zeal for the common cause became subser- vient to their own private interests. To remedy these evils, a new Constitution was proposed and adopted in 17^7 and 1788. It did not, however, pass without warm debates, and even violent opposition ; but it was at length carried, upon die whole, by a considerable majority. The friends of the Constitution called themselves fe- deralists, and distinguished their opponents by the name of antifederalists. The former party, with the best intentions of giving the United States a free republican form of government, yet were anxious to model it upon the constitution of England, at the same time rejecting the exorbi- tant powers of the monarchical and aristocratical parts of that government. The opposite party, on the contrary, were inclined to a more limited form of government, which should put greater power into the hands of the people, and circum- scribe those of the executive. Franklin, Jefferson, Madison, and other leading characters, espoused this form of government, as most suitable to an infant country, and more likely to preserve the liberties of the people, in defence of which so 382 MR. ADAMS. much blood had been shed. They however sub* mitted to the sense of the majority, which was considered as the voice of the people ; but several amendments were proposed and admitted, by which the Constitution was rendered more pala- table to the dissenting party, and tended materi* ally to render the great body of the people satis- fied with the new government. The leaders of the federal party consisted of Washington, Adams, Hamilton, Jay, Ellsworth, and others, who at that time possessed the almost unanimous confidence of the nation, notwithstand- ing the difference of opinion that had been ex- pressed respecting the merits of the new Constitu- tion. It was therefore by general consent that Washington was elected president for four years, and Adams vice-president. So little, however, do political parties adhere to their original principles, or act from pure disinterested motives, that the antifederalists, though they submitted to the au- thority of the new government, yet immediately formed themselves into a party in opposition to the men who administered that government. The contest was not now to preserve the liber- ties of the people; it was for place and power; and, like our ministry and opposition, the federalists and their opponents were struggling, the one to retain and the other to obtain " the loaves and fishes." I must, however, do the Americans the A! ft. ADAMS. 383 justice to say, that the emoluments of office could not be a very tempting consideration with them > since the salaries of the government people of that country are barely sufficient for their support* Ambition was iheir foible, and power their object* The character of General Washington, however, was superior to either ; and even his enemies allow that it was with reluctance he quitted his retreat on the banks of the Potomac to take upon himself the responsible duties of chief magistrate. Like the Roman Cincinnatus, he had retired from the fatigues of war to the bosom of his family and the avocations of his farm. There he sought that re- pose which was all he asked after having per-> formed the most essential services for his country : but no sooner did the voice of the people call on him for further aid, than he hastened to comply with their wishes, and display in the cabinet the wisdom which he had before exhibited in the field. The rival leaders and their partisans were no sooner marshalled in political array, than the people proceeded to range themselves on that side most congenial to their sentiments or interests. Many, no doubt, acted from an honest feeling and principle ; but more, in all probability, suf- fered themselves to be led away by the first lumi- nous orator that caught their ear. " Of all kinds of credulity," says a celebrated writer, "the most 384 MR. ADAMS. obstinate and wonderful is that of political zealots j of men who, being numbered they know not how or why in any of the parties that divide a state, resign the use of their own eyes and ears, and re- solve to believe nothing that does not favour those whom they profess to follow." The antifederalists had long before accused the opposite party with being devoted to the interests of England, and of even being in her pay. The federalists, in their turn, accused their opponents of partiality towards France, and a desire to over- turn the Constitution. Hence arose the idea which foreigners have, that the Americans are divided into a French and English party. The Union, however, was going on tolerably well ; trade and commerce revived with the establishment of the new government ; public credit was restored ; men once more slept in safety, and once more had en- couragement to be industrious. In short, notwith- standing the efforts of the opposition party, every thing seemed to promise a long and uninterrupted course of happiness to the nation, when the French revolution began that chastisement which the Ru- ler of nations has justly inflicted, and is still in- flicting, on a degenerate and impious world. The first dawn of the French revolution was received in America with raptures, particularly by the party out of power: indeed, numbers of the fe- deral party, who viewed the revolution in a phi- MR. ADAMS. 385 '>- i ',- lanthropical point of view, also rejoiced at the liberty which the French had obtained, and joined the opposite party in their congratulations on that happy event. The same honourable sensations were felt in England ; and there were few who did not rejoice at the emancipation of an enlight- ened people from the tyrannical yoke of a vicious government : but when France became a prey to all the frightful horrors of anarchy and civil war, " When, like a matron butcher'd by her sons, And cast beside some common way, a spectacle Of horror and affright to passers by, She bled at every vein; When murders, rapes, and massacres prevail'd j When churches, palaces, and cities blazed j When insolence and barbarism triumph'd, And swept away distinction ; peasants trod Upon the necks of nobles : low were laid The reverend crosier and the holy mitre, And desolation cover'd all the land 5 " when this consuming fire threatened to destroy every thing that was valuable in society, and was about to extend its ravages to every quarter of the globe, it then became the duty of every honest man to endeavour to check its progress. In England its all-devouring flames were happily quenched by the firmness and vigilance of the government : but on the continent the means opposed to it being too feeble, almost every state in Europe VOL, ii. 2 c 386 MR. ADAMS. fell a prey to its violence. America had but just emerged from a long and painful conflict; and, fortunately for her, the majority of the people felt but little inclination to renew the scenes of de- vastation and carnage which had so recently con- vulsed their country : in fact, there was but little for the revolutionary mania to work upon. The American government had been recently modelled upon the purest principles of republican freedom ; yet the Jacobinical principles of equality, and that vicious system of morality which sanctions the foulest deeds for the attainment of a good end, caught a strong hold of the minds of the dissolute and depraved, and likewise of that party which had opposed itself to the existing order of things. The anti federalists received Frenchmen of every description, however vile their characters, with open arms. Emissaries of the jacobin government of France poured into the country ; and Genet, the French minister, was intriguing for the pur- pose of involving the States in a war with Eng- land. The antifederalists now carried their ani- mosity to their opponents too far, and justified by their conduct in favour of jacobinism and French revolutionary principles the animadversions which were heaped upon them by the federalists. The latter no longer called them antifederalists, but democrats, jacobins, and traitors ; and the ani- mosity between them proceeded to the greatest MR, ADAMS* 387 lengths. The spirit of party was excluded from no class of society ; political intolerance proceeded to the extreme: even, frequently, in the same dwelling it was found to be the greatest ; and the most disgraceful and hateful appellations were mutually bestowed on each other. The press teemed with scurrilous language; and pamphlets, newspapers, and magazines were loaded with per- sonal abuse and mutual recriminations. The spirit of faction at length became so vio- lent, that strong measures were resorted to by the federalists, who were then in power. Genet, the French minister, was deprived of his functions ; Edmund Randolph, who afterwards intrigued with Fauchet (Genet's successor), was disgraced ; and Mr. Jefferson, after serving the office of vice- president for a short period, finding his measures opposed in the council, withdrew^ to mature his schemes for attaining the presidency. These acts of the federal government caused great discontent among the opposite party, which was heightened by the unsettled state of the public accounts, and the necessity of imposing taxes upon the people : these, together with Jay's treaty, the sedition and alien bills, and the attempt to raise a standing army, diminished Washington's popularity, oc- casioned the western insurrections, eventually threw Mr, Adams and the federalists out of power, 38S MR, ADAMS. and raised Mr. Jefferson and his friends to the government. Mr. Adams's public career is so connected with the brief account which I have given of the two o parties who divide the people of the United States, that the life of one is the history of the other. In order, however, to ascertain Mr. Adams's talents and abilities for the high office which he held as president of the United States, it is necessary to enter into some of the particulars of his character and conduct while in that oflice. I cannot do this better than by availing myself of the opinions of the late General Hamilton, who belonged to the federal party, and was the intimate friend of Washington. It appears that in 179^, when Washington declined standing any more for, the Presidency, in order, no doubt, to prevent the possibility of his suffering the humiliation of losing the election, the federal party were di- vided in their opinions as to the merits of Mr. Adams and Mr. Thomas Pinckney. Adams's par- tisans wished to prevent Pinckney from having an equal number of votes with the man of their par- ticular choice, and by this means to exclude him from all chance of the Presidency. Others thought that Pinckney was entitled to at least equal sup- port with Adams : amongst these was Mr. Ha- milton, who warmly espoused the cause of Pinck- - MR* ADAMS. 389 T&y, and who, having on that account been much calumniated by Adams and his party, published a letter in justification of his own conduct. As this letter will afford the reader an insight into the views of the parties in that country, and the method in which they manage an election, I have taken the liberty to lay before him an extract of the most interesting parts. General Hamilton was one of the most impartial and gentlemanly characters among the leaders of the revolution ; greatly beloved by his friends, and esteemed even by his enemies. His sentiments respecting Mr. Adams may therefore be looked upon as the effu- sions of a man who felt himself ill-treated, but who scorned to speak unjustly even of his calum- niators. " Not denying to Mr. Adams patriotism, inte- grity, and even talents of a certain kind, I should be deficient in candour were I to conceal the Con- viction that he does not possess the talents adapted to the administration of government, and th.it there are great and intrinsic defects in his cha- racter, which unfit him for the office of chief ma- gistrate. " Strong evidence of some traits of this cha- racter is to be found in a journal of Mr. Adams, which was sent to Congress during that gentle- man's mission at the court of France. The par- ticulars of this journal cannot be expected to have 3<)0 MR. ADAMS. remained in my memory ; but I recollect one which may serve as a sample: being among the guests invited to dine with the Count de Ver- gennes, minister for foreign affairs, Mr. Adams thought fit to give a specimen of American po- liteness, by conducting Madame de Vergennes to dinner. In the way she was pleased to make re- tribution in the current coin of French politeness, by saying to him 'Monsieur Adams, vous tes le Washington de negotiation.' Stating the inci- dent, he makes this comment upon it: " These people have a very pretty knack of paying com- pliments:" he might also have added, They have a very dexterous knack of disguising a sarcasm. " The opinion, however, which I have avowed, did not prevent my entering cordially into the plan of supporting Mr. Adams for the office of V ice- president of the new Constitution (in 1788). I still thought that he had high claims upon the public gratitude, and possessed substantial worth of character, which might atone for some great defects, in addition to this, it was well known that he was a favourite of New England ; and it \vas obvious that his union with General Wash- ington would tend to give the government, in its outset, all the strength which it could derive from the character of the two principal magistrates. But it was deemed an essential point of caution to take care that accident, or an intrigue of the op- MR. ADAMS. 391 posers of government, should not raise Mr. Adams instead of General Washington to the first place. This every friend of the government would have considered as a disastrous event; as well because it would have displayed a capricious operation of the system, in elevating to the first station a man intended for the second ; as because it was con- ceived that the incomparable superior weight and transcendent popularity of General Washington rendered his presence at the head of the govern- ment, in its first organization, a matter of primary and indispensable importance. Jt was therefore agreed that a few votes should be diverted from Mr. Adams to other persons, so as to insure to General Washington a plurality. " Great was my astonishment, and equally great my regret, when afterwards I learnt from persons of unquestionable veracity, that Mr. Adams had complained of unfair treatment in not liaving been permitted to take an equal chance with General Washington, by leaving the votes to an uninflu- enced current. " The extreme egotism of the temper which could blind a man to considerations so obvious as those that had recommended the course pursued, nnot be enforced by my comment. It exceeded all that I imagined, and showed, in too strong a light, that the vanity which I have ascribed to him 392 MR. ADAMS. existed to a degree that rendered it more than a harmless foible. " The epoch at length arrived when the retreat of General Washington (in 179^) niade it neces- sary to fix upon a successor. By this time men of principal influence in the federal party, whose situations had led them to an intimate acquaint- ance with Mr. Adams's character, began to enter- tain serious doubts about his fitness for the station; yet his pretensions, in several respects, were so strong, that after mature reflection they thought it better to indulge their hopes than listen to their fears. To this conclusion the desire of preserving harmony in the federal party was a weighty in- ducement. Accordingly it was determined to support Mr. Adams for the chief magistracy. " It was evidently of much consequence to have an eminent federalist Vice-president. Mr. Thomas Pinckney, of South Carolina, was selected for this purpose. This gentleman, too little known in the north, had been all his lifetime distinguished in the south for the mildness and amiableness of his manners, the rectitude and purity of his morals, and the soundness and correctness of his under- standing, accompanied by an habitual discretion and self- command, which has often occasioned a parallel to be drawn between him and the vene- rated Washington. In addition to these recoin. MR. ADAMS. 393 tnendations, he had been during a critical period our minister at the court of London, and recently envoy extraordinary to the court of Spain ; and in both these trusts' he had acquitted himself to the satisfaction of all parties. With the court of Spain he had effected a treaty, which removed all the thorny subjects of contention that had so long threatened the peace of the two countries, and stipulated for the United States, on their southern frontier, and on the Mississippi, advan- tages of real magnitude and importance. " Well-informed men knew that the event of the election was extremely problematical ; and while the friends of Mr. Jefferson predicted his success with sanguine confidence, his opposers feared that he might have at least an equal chance with any federal candidate. " To exclude him was deemed, by the fede- ralists, a primary object. Those of them who possessed the best means of judging, were of opi- nion that it was far less important whether Mr. Adams or Mr. Pinckney was the successful can- didate, than that Mr. Jefferson should not be the person ; and on this principle it was understood among them that the two first-mentioned gentle- men should be equally supported, leaving to ca- sual accessions of votes in favour of one or the other, to turn the scale between them. *' In tills plan I united with good faith, in the MR. ADAMS. resolution to which I scrupulously adhered, of giving to each candidate an equal support. This was done wherever my influence extended ; as was more particularly manifested in the state of New York, where all the electors were my warm personal or political friends, and all gave a con- current vote for the two federal candidates. " It is true, that a faithful execution of this plan would have given Mr. Pinckney a somewhat better chance than Mr. Adams ; nor shall it be concealed that an issue favourable to the former would not have been disagreeable to me ; as in- deed I declared at that time in the circles of my confidential friends. The considerations which * had reconciled me to the success of Mr. Pinckney were of a nature exclusively public ; they resulted from the disgusting egotism, the distempered jealousy, and the ungovernable indiscretion of Mr. Adams's temper, joined to some doubts of the correctness of his maxims of administration. Though in matters of finance he had acted with the federal party ; yet he had more than once broached theories at variance with his practice ; and in conversation he repeatedly made excursions into the field of foreign politics, which alarmed the friends of the prevailing system. " The plan of giving equal support to the two federal candidates was not pursued. Personal at- tachment for Mr. Adams, especially in the New MR. ADAMS. England States, caused a number of votes to be withheld from Mr. Pinckney, and thrown away. The result was, that Mr. Adams was elected Pre- sident by a majority of only two votes, and Mr. Jefferson Vice-president. " This issue demonstrated the wisdom of the plan which had been abandoned, and how greatly, in departing from it, the cause had been sacrificed to the man. But for a sort of miracle the depar- ture would have made Mr. Jefferson President. No one, sincere in the opinion that this gentleman was an ineligible and dangerous candidate, can hesitate in pronouncing, that in dropping Mr. Pinckney too much was put at hazard ; and that those who promoted the other course acted with prudence and propriety. " It is to this circumstance of the equal support of Mr. Pinckney that we are in a great measure to refer the serious schism which has grown up in the federal party. Mr. Adams never could forgive the men who had been engaged in the plan, though it embraced some of his most partial admirers. He had discovered bitter animosity against several of them. Against me his rage has been so vehe- ment as to cause him more than once to forget the decorum which, in his situation, ought to have been an inviolable law. It will not appear an exaggeration to those who have studied his cha- racter, to suppose that he is capable of being 39* MR. ADAMS. alienated from a system to which he has been attached, because it is upheld by men whom he hates." We now come to a review of Mr. Adams's con- duct as President: the opinions are thus stated by Mr. Hamilton : " It will be recollected, that General Charles C. Pinckney, the brother of Thomas, had been deputed by President Washington as successor to Mr. Munroe at Paris, and had been refused to be received by the French government in his quality of Minister Plenipotentiary. As a final effort of accommodation, and as a mean, in case of failure, of enlightening and combining the public opinion, it was resolved to make another and a more solemn experiment in the form of a commission of three. This measure (with some objections to the detail) was approved by all parties; by the antifederalists, because they thought no evil so great as a rupture with France; by the federalists, because it was their system to avoid war with every power, if it could be done without the sa- crifice of essential interests, or absolute humilia- tion. " The expediency of the step was suggested to Mr. Adams through a federal channel, a consi- derable time before he determined to take it. He hesitated whether it could be done, after the re- jection of General Pinckney, without national >SR. ADAMS. 397 debasement. The doubt was an honourable one; it -was afterwards very properly surrendered t the cogent reasons which pleaded for a further experiment. " The event of this experiment is fresh in our recollection. Our envoys, like our minister, were rejected. Tribute was demanded as a prelimi- nary to negotiation. To their immortal honour, though France at the time was proudly trium- phant, they repelled the disgraceful pretension. This conduct of the French government, in which it is difficult to say whether despotic insolence or unblushing corruption was most prominent, electrified the American people with a becoming indignation. In vain the partisans of France at- tempted to extenuate. The public voice was di- stinct and audible. The nation, disdaining so foul an overture, was ready to encounter the worst consequences of resistance. " Without imitating the flatterers of Mr. Adams, who attribute to him the whole merit of producing the spirit which appeared in the com- munity, it shall with cheerfulness be acknow- ledged, that he took upon the occasion a manly and courageous lead ; that he did all in his power to rouse the pride of the nation; to inspire it with a just sense of the injuries and outrages which it had experienced, and to dispose it to a firm and 398 MR. ADAMS. magnanimous resistance; and that his efforts con- tributed materially to the end. " The latter conduct of Mr. Adams, in the vacillating measures which he adopted, with re- spect to the nomination of Mr. Murray as envoy to the French republic, and aftenvards sending three others to supplicate at the feet of a set of demagogues, was a painful contrast to his com- mencement. Its effects sunk the tone of the public mind ; impaired the confidence of the friends of the government in the executive chief; distracted the public opinion ; unnerved the public councils ; sowed the seeds of discord at home, and lowered the reputation of the government abroad. " Very different from the practice of Mr. Adams was that of the modest and sage Washington, He consulted much, pondered much, resolved slowly, resolved surely: and as surely Mr. Adams might have benefited by the advice of his mini- sters. The stately system of not consulting ministers is likely to have a further disadvantage. It will tend to exclude from places of primary trust, the men most fit to occupy them. " Few and feeble are the interested inducements to accept a place in our administration. Far from being lucrative, there is not one which will not involve pecuniary sacrifiec to every honest man of MR. BURR, 399 pre-eminent talents. And has not experience shown, that he must be fortunate indeed, if even the successful execution of his task can secure to him consideration and fame? Of a large harvest of obloquy he is sure." Such are the opinions of Mr. Hamilton respect- ing the character and public conduct of Mr. Adams. The sentiments of a man so much re- spected, and so well informed of all the springs which set in motion the grand political machine of the United States, are invaluable, and leave the biographer of Mr. Adams v but little to urge in his defence. AARON BURR. THIS enterprising character was born at Prince- town, New Jersey, about the year 1 755. He begat* his career under Arnold, at the commencement of the revolutionary war, when that officer with his little corps set out upon his Quixotic expedi- tion to Canada. Burr accompanied the army as a volunteer ; and after traversing an immense wilderness for several weeks, they arrived, in a famished condition, in the neighbourhood of Quebec, about the latter end of November 1/75, Here they found themselves at the beginning of 400 MR. BURR. winter in that bleak region, without tents, pro*, visions, horses, or artillery, in the face of a formi- dable fortress! A storm, however, in addition to contrary winds, delayed the passage of the river, and alone prevented this little army, consisting scarcely of five hundred men, from assailing and perhaps carrying the town when they first came in sight; for, so unexpected was their arrival, that not more than fifty regular troops were at that time in the garrison. Disappointed in this object, and having given time to Sir Guy Carleton, the English general, to form the inhabitants into a body of militia, they found themselves obliged to wait the arrival of Montgomery, who was expected from Mont- real. This able leader, having left a detachment for the security of that city, made his appearance towards the close of December. His force, how- ever, was not much superior to Arnold's, except in some small pieces of artillery. When these two adventurous commanders united their means, they found they were small indeed ; but they were all they had to expect : a desperate assault on the town was therefore the only chance of suc- cess left them. It was the dead of winter; the snow covered the ground to the depth of five or six feet; the river was frozen over; supplies of provisions were precarious: they must either con- quer or retreat, and that too without delay ! MR. BURR, 401 In the mean time Burr attached himself to General Montgomery in quality of aide-de-camp, and the issue of their assault upon Quebec is well known. His commander and two officers of the staff were killed in the action ; Arnold was wounded, and near half the troops were made prisoners in the town. The remainder, after oc- cupying the lower town for two or three days, were dislodged, and retreated to the general hos- pital, in the neighbourhood of which they still kept up a menacing attitude during the rest of the winter; stopping supplies of provisions, and converting the siege into a species of blockade, which gave the garrison considerable annoyance. Burr remained with the northern army, sharing all its fortunes; which, during the next campaign in 1776* were rather honourable than brilliant. During this time he rose to the rank of lieutenant- colonel. He and his fellow- soldiers, however, had only to wait the succeeding year for the turn- ing of the scale. In the campaign of 1777 Burr served in the army of General Gates, and was present at the various actions preceding the con- vention of Saratoga, when they were gratified beyond measure by the capture of the whole British army under General Burgoyne. Colonel Burr afterwards returned to his native State, New Jersey, with that portion of the northern army which was sent to the assistance of VOL. II. 2 D 402 MR. BURR* General Washington during his operations in 177 s an( l '779 : while there, he performed some exploits as a partisan, but of no great moment in the general result of the national contest. Fatigued or disgusted with a martial life, he left the army in 1779, and went to study law under Mr. Hosmer of Connecticut. At the con- clusion of the war he settled at New York, and commenced his practice in that city ; and, as one of his biographers observes, " that no means might be wanting to enable him to serve his coun- try in every duty of a good citizen, he married about the same time a very amiable woman." She was a young widow, the relict of General Prevost, a British officer, who had served and died in Florida. This lady did not live many years after her second alliance; but left Mr. EJurp one child, a daughter, now married to Mr. Allston of South Carolina. She also bequeathed to his care a son by her former husband; to whom Mr. Burr has the merit of having given an excellent education. . Mr. Burr had not long settled at New York, before his talents raised him to the notice of the people. His eloquence, which was of the bril- liant and insinuating kind, was no sooner heard in a court of justice, than he was recognised as standing either at or near the head of his pro- fession. He might doubtless have enriched him- , MR. BURR* 403 self by the practice of the law, had he pursued it with diligence and lived with ceconomy ; but he possessed a taste for expense, which, together with some unlucky speculations in land or other things foreign to his profession, have kept his fortune in a state of mediocrity. Another circumstance that militated against the accumulation of wealth was- o y the strong ambition which he evinced to figure in the higher stations of legislation and government; employments which in that country can yield no profit. He was early and often elected to the le- gislative assembly of the State, and several times delegated to Congress ; and for a man who had no trace of family connexion in the S'.ate where he lived, and who had no fortune either to stand in the place of merit, or to help to set it off, his success in rising to the highest and most confiden- tial post is surely no small proof of talent, if not of virtue. At the election: for president and vice-president in 18O1, he was gratified by being chosen to fill the office of the latter, and by a singular contest between the different States he narrowly missed the chance of being elected president. Some persons have ascribed an unfair action to Burr on that occasion ; but, as it has never been substan- tiated, it can be considered only as an idle rumour. Notwithstanding this sudden elevation, Burr had the mortification to find after a short time 404 MR. BURR. that his popularity declined rather than increased. His vanity and ambition, no doubt, tended consi- derably to alienate the affections of those who had supported him on account of his extraordinary talents ; and the insinuations of his enemies also materially contributed to sink him in the favour of the people. Seeing, therefore, very little pro- bability of being again elected to the office of vice-president, he declared himself candidate for Governor of the State of New York in 1804. In this, however, he did not succeed, being opposed by the greater part of the republicans, and by all the federalists. During the canvass previous to the election, it seems that General Hamilton had made some free observations on the political and moral character of Burr, probably with a view to defeat his election. These afterwards found their way inta the newspapers, and gave rise to that duel which terminated in the death of the General, and in the flight of Burr. Having escaped from the hands of justice in New York, Burr had the temerity to make his appearance at Philadelphia ; but finding that the public indignation was loudly expressed against him, he retired to the State of Tennessee, where he was a land-holder. There he remained in safety, the victim of his resentment being little known in that part of the Union ; but the most MR. BURR. 405 flagrant violation of the public feeling was the glaring fact of his continuing to exercise the functions of his office as vice-president, though a warrant of one of the States was in force to appre- hend him! After the clamours against him had somewhat subsided, he ventured from his retreat, and was repeatedly seen in the vice- presidential chair, without any other notice than the whispers of resentment among the auditors in the gallery of the Senate chamber. It is said that he even presided during the whole of the trial of the vene- rable Judge Chace, who was afterwards proved to be more innocent than those who sat in judgement on him. When his official term expired, Burr withdrew to his estate in Tennessee, and there matured those plans which his enterprising and ambitious mind had projected for the subjugation of Mexico and other parts of the Spanish possessions; though, in the opinion of many people, they were secretly intended for the separation of the Union. The facts and circumstances respecting this extraordi- nary affair are so recent, and have been so repeat- edly detailed in the public prints, that it is unne- cessary for me to enter into a long history of the subject: suffice it to say, that after collecting a number of adventurers like himself, of desperate fortune, and forming a magazine of stores, arms, provisions, his plans were frustrated by the 406 MR. BLANNERHASSET. interference of the government; and he, together witli his associates, was apprehended and brought to trial. No sufficient proof of treason, however, could be adduced against them, and they were liberated upon bail. Since then, Burr retired to some more distant part of the Union, perhaps to form schemes of greater magnitude, and provide the means for carrying them into execution. Latterly he visited Europe, submitted some pro- jects to the British ministry, and afterwards went to France, where he remained in 1812. MR. BLANNERHASSET. AMONG the deluded victims of Burr's unprin^ cipled designs, is a gentleman of the name of Blannerhasset, a native of Ireland, who fled from the storms of his own country to enjoy the hap- piness of a quiet retreat in the interior of Ame- rica. With a moderate fortune, a cultivated mind, and an amiable wife, he sought retirement on the banks of the Ohio; and until Aaron Burr intro- duced himself to his acquaintance, he had never experienced one unhappy moment. The cruelty and infamy of Burr's proceedings, which occa- sioned the fall of this unfortunate gentleman from a state of affluence and happiness to poverty and despair, have been so ably depictured by Mr. Wirt, one of the counsellors on Burr's trial,, that MR. BLANNERHASSET. 40? 1 should do him injustice were I to describe them in any other language than his own. I shall leave the reader to make his own comments on such vile and atrocious conduct. Mr. Wirt, speaking of the daring violation of the laws of the country, of which Burr had been guilty, and his infamy in endeavouring to shift the blame from himself to Blannerhasset, ex- claims, " Who then is Aaron Burr, in the part which he has borne in this transaction r He is its author, its projector, its active executor* Bold, ardent, restless, aspiring, his brain conceived it, his hand brought it into action. Beginning his operations in New York, he associated with him men whose wealth is to supply the necessary funds. Possessed of th main spring, his per- sonal labour contrives all the machinery. Per- vading the continent from New York to New Orleans, he draws into his plan, by every allure- ment which he can contrive, men of all ranks and all descriptions. To youthful ardour, he presents danger and glory ; to ambition, rank, titles, and honour ; to avarice, mines of Mexico. To each person whom he addresses he presents the object adapted to his taste ; his recruiting of- ficers are appointed ; men are engaged through- out the continent: civil life is indeed quiet upon its surface, but in its bosom this man has con- trived to deposit the materials with which the 4O8 MR. BLANNERHASSET. slightest touch of his match produces an explo- sion. All this, his restless ambition contrived; and in the autumn of 1806 he goes, for the last time, to apply this match. On this excursion he meets with Blannerhasset. " Who is Blannerhasset? A native of Ireland, a man of letters, who fled from the storms of his own country to find quiet in ours. His history shows that war is not the natural element of his mind ; if it had been, he never would have changed Ireland for America. So far is an army from furnishing the society natural and proper for Mr. Blannerhasset's character, that he retired from the population of the Atlantic States, and sought quiet and solitude in the bosom of our western forests. But he carried with him taste, science, and wealth ; 'and lo! the desert smiled/ Possessing himself of a beautiful island in the Ohio, he rears upon it a palace, and decorates it with every embellishment of fancy. A shrub- bery that Shenstpne might have envied, blooms around him ; music that might have charmed Calliope and her nymphs, is his ; an extensive library spreads its treasures before him ; a philo- sophical apparatus qfTers to him all the secrets and mysteries of nature : peace, tranquillity, and innocence spread their mingled delights around him; and, to crown the enchantment of the scene, a wife, who is said to be lovely beyond her sex, MR. BLANNERHASSET. 409 and graced with every accomplishment that can render it irresistible, had blessed him with her love, and made him father of her children. " The evidence would convince you, Sir, that this is but a faint picture of the real life. In the midst of all this peace, this innocence, and this tranquillity, this feast of the mind, this pure banquet of the heart, the destroyer comes he comes to turn his paradise into a hell : yet the flowers do not wither at his approach ; and no monitory shuddering through the bosom of their unfortunate possessors warns him of the ruin that is coming upon him. A stranger presents himself. Introduced to their civilities by the high rank which he had lately held in his coun- try, he soon finds his way to their hearts by the dignity and elegance of his demeanour, the light and beauty of his conversation, and the seductive and fascinating power of his address. The con- quest was not a difficult one. Innocence is ever simple and credulous : conscious of no design it- self, it suspects none in others ; it wears no guard before its breast ; every door and portal and ave- nue of the heart is thrown open, and all who choose it enter. Such was the state of Eden when the serpent entered its bowers. The pri- soner, in a more engaging form, winding himself into the open and unpractised heart of the un- fortunate Blannerhasset, found but little difficulty 41O MR. BLANNERKASSET. in changing the native character of that heart % and the object of its affection. By degrees he in- fuses into it the poison of his own ambition ; he breathes into it the fire of his own courage ; a dar- ing and desperate thirst for glory; and ardour panting for all the storm, and bustle, and hurri- cane of life. " In a short time the whole man was changed, and every object of his former delight relin- quished. No more he enjoys the tranquil scene; it has become fiat and insipid to his taste ; his books are abandoned ; his retort and crucible are thrown aside ; his shrubbery blooms and breathes its fragrance upon the air in vain, he likes it not ; his ear no longer drinks the rich melody of music, it longs for the trumpet's clangor and the cannon's roar : even the prattle of his babes, once so sweet, no longer affects him ; and the angel smile of his wife, which hitherto touched his bosom with ec- stasy so unspeakable, is now unfelt and unseen. Greater objects have taken possession of his soul ; his imagination has been dazzled by visions of diadems, and stars, and garters, and titles of nobi- lity : he has been taught to burn with restless emulation at the names of Caesar, Cromwell, arid Bonaparte. His enchanted island is destined soon to elapse into a desert ; and in a few months we find the tender and beautiful partner of his bosom, whom lately he 6 permitted not the winds of sum* MR. BLANNERHASSET. 4 1 \ mer to visit too roughly,' shivering at midnight on the winter banks of the Ohio, and mingling her tears with the torrents that froze as they fell. Yet this unfortunate man, thus deluded from his interest and his happiness, thus seduced from the paths of innocence and peace, thus con- founded in the toils which were deliberately spread for him, and overwhelmed by the master- ing spirit and genius of another; this man, thus ruined and undone, and made to play a subordinate part in this grand drama of guilt and treason, this man is to be called the principal offender; while he by whom he was thus plunged and steeped in misery is comparatively innocent a mere accessory ! Sir, neither the human heart nor the human understanding will bear a perver- sion so monstrous and absurd ; so shocking to the soul, so revolting to reason. O! no, Sir, there is no man who knows any thing of this affair, who does not know that to every man concerned in it Aaron Burr was the sun to the planets which surrounded him : he bound them in their re- spective orbits, and gave them their light, their heat, and their motion. Let him not then shrink from the high destination which he has courted; and having already ruined Blannerhasset in for- tune, character, and happiness for ever, attempt to finish the tragedy by thrusting that ill-fated nian between himself and punishment." 412 GENERAL HAMILTON. THE LATE GENERAL HAMILTON. THE father of this much respected character was a native of Scotland, settled in the island of St. Vincent, where he had married an American lady. When of proper age young Hamilton was sent to Columbia college, at New York, for his education, under the care of his mother's rela- tions. He entered the American army at a very early stage of the contest, and at an age when he was little more than a school-boy ; for he had but recently left college and entered a merchant's counting-house. Having raised a company of matrosses, or artillery-rnen, he took the field, and conducted himself in such a manner as to obtain the notice of the Commander-in-chief. His high reputation for discretion and valour procured him the post of aide-de-camp to General Washington, whose fame, according to the assertion of Mr.Cob- bett,is more indebted to Mr.Hamilton than to any intrinsic merit of his own. During the war Mr. Hamilton rose from rank to rank, till at the siege of York-town we see him a colonel commanding the attack on one of the redoubts, the capture of which decided the fate of Lord Cornwallis and his army, Here Mr. Cob- bett relates an anecdote of this gentleman, which, if founded in truth, redounds greatly to his ho- GENERAL HAMILTON. 413 nour, but throws a shade over that of Washing- ton and La Fayette. " Previous to the assault," says that writer, " La Fayette, who was high in command in the American army, proposed to Washington, to put to death all the British officers and soldiers that should be taken in the redoubts. Washington who, as Dr. Smyth truly observes, * never did one generous action in his life,' replied, that as the Marquis had the chief command of the assault, ( he might do as he pleased.' This answer, which was very much like that of Pontius Pilate to the Jews, encouraged the base and vindictive Frenchman to give a positive order to Colonel Hamilton to execute his bloody intention. After the redoubts were subdued, La Fayette asked why liis order had not been obeyed ; to which the gal- lant and humane Hamilton replied, ' that the Americans knew how toftgkt, but not to murder? in which sentiment he was joined by the American soldiers, who heard the remonstrances of La Fay- ette with indignation and abhorrence." Cobbett refers the reader for a detail of these facts to the American account of the revolutionary war, pub- lished by Dodson of Philadelphia, and inserted in the American edition of the Encyclopaedia Bri- tannica. It is, however, rather singular that La Fayette, who was at the head of one of the parties that stormed the redoubts on that day, should himself have neglected to carry into execution his 414 GENERAL HAMILTON, own favourite proposition : surely he could not expect Colonel Hamilton to execute such an in- famous plan, in which he himself declined taking any share : nor, from the known humanity, if not generosity, of General Washington, can we for at moment suppose that he would have quietly given his acquiescence to such a diabolical proceeding. This anecdote most likely originated with the ene- mies of that great man, and was made use of to answer the purpose of an election. At all events, those who have any regard for his character and reputation, and possess the means of contradicting this vile aspersion, should come forward and re- lieve his hitherto unblemished name from the odium which must otherwise attach to it. The war being at an end, the army disbanded, and no provision made for either soldiers or offi- cers, Mr. Hamilton was led to the profession of the law. He retired to Albany, where he secluded himself from the world for some months, at the end of which he was admitted to the bar ; and, to the utter astonishment of every one, was in a very little time regarded as the most eminent advocate at a bar which was far from being destitute either of legal knowledge or rhetorical talents. In this situation he acquired still greater honour by his courageous resistance of those violent and unjust measures which were proposed, and in some cases carried into execution, against the property GENERAL HAMILTON. 4l5 and persons of the royalists who remained in the State after the evacuation of the city of New York. He had fought bravely against them ; and he now as bravely defended them against the persecution of those selfish and malignant cowards who had never dared to face them in the field: and it may be safely asserted, that the State of New York owed the restoration of its tranquillity and credit to his exertions more than to any other cause whatever. When the federal government was established in the year 177^? Mr. Hamilton was appointed secretary of the treasury, an office in America similar to those of our lord treasurer and chan- cellor of the exchequer joined in one. This si- tuation, considering the state of the American finances and the total want of public credit that prevailed, vyas a most arduous one : but Mr. Ha- milton's genius, his inflexible integrity, and his- indefatigable industry, surmounted all obstacles. In a very short space the American government regained the lost confidence of both natives .and foreigners ; the payment of the public debts was provided for, trade and commerce revive^, and the nation rose to that importance to which with- out Mr. Hamilton's measures it would have made but a slow progress. Having thus grafted the soldier upon the mer- chant, and the statesman upon the lawyer ; having equalled if not excelled his contemporaries in all 41 6 Un. J. RANDOLPH; these widely-various professions, he was justly re- garded as a man to whom the nation might look with confidence in any future crisis of its affairs* No wonder, then, that his premature death should have created such general grief throughout the country ; and that, while his memory is dear to the heart of every good man, that of his murderer is loaded with execrations. JOHN RANDOLPH. THIS gentleman, whose name many persons have confounded with that of Edmund Randolph, is a native of Virginia, and born of a very respect- able family. Bred up to the profession of the law, attached to antifederal principles, he came into office under Mr. Jefferson's administration. Pre- vious to this Mr. Randolph had for several years been a member of Congress ; and upon several occasions during Mr. Adams's presidency he con- trived materially to turn the current of popular opinion from the federalists to his party. The indiscreet and intemperate warmth shown by the ruling party towards Great Britain, and their apparently tame acquiescence in the mea- sures of Bonaparte, at length disgusted Mr. Ran- dolph. He began by rebuking Mr. Madison, at Mtt. J. RANDOLPH. 417 that time secretary of state, for acceding to the demand of Turreau the French ambassador; oil which occasion Mr. Madison replied, " that France was in want of 'money , and must have some from the United States" The pretext, as 1 have already stated, was payment for the Floridas and Loui- siana ; but it is well known that the Americans are in possession of no more than they were be- fore the purchase-money was paid ! This shuffling conduct occasioned Mr. Randolph to withdraw himself from the confidence of President Jefferson, and he then repeatedly told the house that there no longer existed a cabinet council. Since then he has taken an active part in op- position to the measures of the democratical party, without absolutely joining the federalists* In thus steering a middle course he has been o joined by many other members, who under his auspices have lately risen into public notice and esteem. Among them the nawes of Garden ier, Key, Dana, Otis, and Quincy are the most con- spicuous. In many instances Mr. Randolph's speeches have been favourable to English measures and principles, as opposed to those of France; yet nevertheless he possesses that amor patrite which consults only the good of his own country. The integrity and virtue of this eminent cha- racter are sufficiently substantiated by his senti- ments respecting the late Mr. CrowninshiddV VOL. II. , 2 E \ 418 MR. J. RANDOLPH, proposition for cancelling the national debt in case of war with England. " The gentleman from Massachusetts/' says Mr. Randolph, " is for spunging the national debt. I can never con- sent to it. I will never bring the ways and means of fraudulent bankruptcy into your committee of supply. Confiscation and swindling shall never be found among my estimates to meet the current expenditure of peace and war. No, Sir, I have said with the doors closed, and I say so when they are open, ' Pay the public debt.' Get rid of that dead weight upon your government that cramps all your measures, and then you may set the world at defiance. So long as it hangs upon you, you must have revenue, and to have revenue you must have commerce commerce, peace." Acting up to these patriotic and virtuous prin- ciples, Mr. Randolph was induced to bring forward a series of charges against General Wilkinson for corruption, in having received money at various times from the Spanish government at New Or- leans in aid of traitorous practices against the United States. One of the documents which Mr. Randolph presented to the house on that oc- casion, is as follows : TRANSLATION. " In the galky the Victoria, Bernardo Molina patron, there have been sent to Don Vincent MR. J. RANDOLPH. 419 Folch nine thousand six hundred and forty dollars, which sum, without making the least use of it, you will hold at my disposal, to deliver it at the mo- ment an order may be presented to you by the American General Don James Wilkinson. God preserve you many years ! " THE BARON DE CARONP^LET." New Orleans, 20th Jan. 1796. " I certify that the foregoing is a copy of ks original, to which I refer. (Signed) " THOMAS PORTELL." New Madrid, Zjth June 17960 Mr. Randolph upon this and other documents impeached Wilkinson of being a Spanish pen- sioner, and pledged himself to prove the charges which he brought against him. A motion was accordingly made to request the President to in- stitute an inquiry into Wilkinson's conduct. In the mean time Wilkinson challenged Randolph, who replied that he would not fight him till he had cleared up his character : in consequence of which the General posted an advertisement up in different parts of the city of Washington, pro- claiming John Randolph a prevaricating poltroon and scoundrel. Mr. Randolph, however, displayed his courage and magnanimity by treating this libel with con- 2 E 3 420 MR, J. RANDOLPH. tempi ; and patriotically continued to persevere in the investigation of this unpleasant business. At tb'e examination of witnesses Mr. Randolph, on introducing Mr. Clark's affidavit, said, "The proofs, Mr. Speaker, which have this day been produced against your General-in-chief, together with what I hold in my hand, will convince you, Sir, and the world, that he is a base traitor. Be- lieve me, Mr. Speaker, that this poison, this in- fectious, corrupted disease, is not confined to your General alone ; it has, to the disgrace of the American character, I am sorry to say, extended to the army under your General's command ! The very stores which descended the Ohio for the Burr conspiracy, were taken, Sir, from the American arsenal I " If this last allegation is true, and it never has been contradicted, we may easily account for the acquittal of General Wilkinson, which afterwards took place. A military court of inquiry was in- stituted by the President to investigate the charges against him. They acquitted him of all corrupt practices ; but acknowledged that he had, at va- rious times, received large sums of money from the Governor of New Orleans for tobacco! Ex- cellent management! I think they order these matters better in America than in Europe. Mr. Randolph's figure is ordinary and forbid- ding : tall, lean, pale, and emaciated ; he repulses MR. J. RANDOLPH. 421 rather than invites. His voice is somewhat fe- minine; but that is little noticed the moment he has entered fully upon his subject, whether it be at the convivial table or in the house of represen- tatives. The defects of his person are then for- gotten in One continued blaze of shrewd, sensible, and eloquent remarks. By a manner peculiar to himself he arrests the wandering attention of his o auditors, and rouses every slumbering faculty of the mind. The reasoning of Mr. Randolph is never strong and forcible; having a genius which despises the shackles of restraint, he throws off, in the paroxyms of feeling, the chains of argumenta- tion, and ranges, as it were, with a quickened pace and gladdened heart through the wide field of ge- neral remark, if forced into a subtle and intricate discussion by his opponents, he yields with in- finite reluctance to the imperious necessity of speaking to the judgement, without being per- mitted to charm and captivate the imagination. Yet, nevertheless, when lie exhibits his subject naked, it has the nerve of Hercules, and is not re- lieved by a single feature of Adonis. With the most powerful talents, with superior cultivation of mind, and with the most unsuspect- ing sincerity in the expression of all his opinirns, Mr. Randolph is not calculated for a popular leader. The arts of conciliation are unknown to him. MR J. RANDOLPH. Governed by the dictates of his own manly judge- ment, he cannot conceive that dependence which shackles weaker minds. It is thus that he never has been known to consult, to advise, or to com- promise. His propositions are original : they are Drought forward without one inquiry of who is to support, or who is to oppose them. Conscious of the purity of his own intentions, and satisfied with the correctness of his own judgement, he wishes not io defend the one, he seeks not to confirm the other, by his personal popularity. Individually, there is no man in the district tvhere he resides who is not better known, or whose manners and public habits are not more pleasing to the people, than Mr. Randolph's. It is pro- bable, that if his election were put on that issue, he would never have held a seat in Congress. About him there is an atmosphere of repulsion which few dare to penetrate ; but he who has the firmness to do it is eminently rewarded. Ardent and affectionate in his disposition, he is susceptible of strong and permanent affection : but if injured, he exhibits but little of that mild forbearance which is inculcated in the gentle precepts of our holy religion. His private history, however, abounds with evidences of the most humane and philanthropic feeling One trait in his character denotes his inclination to live in peace and friend- MR. J. RANDOLPH. 423' ship with those around him : he never will con- verse upon political subjects but with the greatest reluctance, well knowing what acrimony and discord they create, even between the warmest friends. Although Mr. Randolph possesses general in- formation, he cannot be considered a literary cha- racter. Except a minute knowledge of history and geography, his reading has been otherwise superficial. The wit of Mr. Randolph is keen, and too often indulged without regard to its effects on the feelings of others. Sometimes, however, its application is peculiarly happy. Dr. Dana, proverbial for bis pedantry, once observed, in the presence of Mr. Randolph, that they were waiting for their stalking library (alluding to Dr. Mit- chill) : " Sir," said Randolph, I heard him just now inquire for his index." The adversaries of Mr. Randolph have lately attempted to dis- hearten him by contumely and vulgar abuse; but he very properly refuses to be drawn into personal conflicts with whole hosts of enemies, who wish to drown their vengeance in his blood. " May he live long/' says one of his friends, *' and never cease to lash corruption with a calm disdain!" 424 MR.GARDENIER, MR.GARDENIER. THERE cannot, says a celebrated English writer, a greater judgement hefal a country than such a dreadful spirit of division as rends a government into two distinct people, and makes them greater strangers, and more averse to each other, than if they were actually two different nations. The effects of such a division are pernicious to the last degree ; not only with regard to those advantages which they give the common enemy, but to those private evils which they produce in the heart of almost every particular person. This influence is very fatal both to men's morals and their under- standings : it sinks the virtue of a nation ; and not only so, but destroys even common sense. A furious party spirit, when it rages *in its full violence, exerts itself in civil war and bloodshed ; and, when it is. under its greatest restraints, natu- rally breaks out \\\ falsehood, detraction, calumny, and a -partial administration of justice. In a word, it fills a nation with spleen and rancour, and ex- tinguishes all the seeds of good nature, compassion, and humanity. if these observations had been written at the present day, instead of a century ago, they could not have applied with greater truth to the situ- ation of the United States than they do at this MR. GARDENIER. 425 moment, torn and divided as they are between de- mocrats and federalists. These parties, however, which have so long convulsed the political ma- chine of that country, seem to have given rise lately to a third party, which appears inclined to steer a middle course between the interests of En- gland and France, as they relate to America. Of this class of politicians I have already men- tioned Mr. Gardenier, who next to his great leader, Mr. Randolph, is distinguished by the bold and manly sentiments which he delivers in / the house of representatives. This gentleman is a native of the State of New York, and began his public career as member for Duchess county in that State. He soon distinguished himself in the house by several very able speeches against the pusillanimous and vacillating measures of the go- vernment ; but his greatest efforts were levelled at the passing cf the embargo act, which, conjointly vvitli Mr. Randolph, he exerted every nerve to prevent. During the discussion of that important question, which occupied the house for several days and nights, he reflected severely upon the government. " The representatives of the na- tion," said Mr. Gardenier, " are sitting in this house as mere automata; they are guided by an invisible hand, which is bringing ruin upon the country, and threatens to chain us to the trium- phal car of the Emperor Napoleon. Congress is 426 MR. GARDENIER. completely in the dark. We can obtain no infor- mation from the cabinet, why or wherefore we act; or for what motive we are about to commit a commercial suicide." This bold and rnanly attack brought on him a host of assailants from the opposite party, who were for immediately expelling him the house. So great was the outcry against him, that the Speaker moved an adjournment, in order that they might take up the question more coolly the next day. Accordingly, on the following day Mr. G. W. Campbell, of Tennessee, came down to the house, and declared that Mr. Gardenier had uttered an infamous falsehood, and that he was ready to main- tain his declaration in any manner Mr. Gardenier might think proper. This being construed into a challenge, a meeting was appointed, and a duel fought, which terminated by Mr. Gardenier being shot in the shoulder. It is said that Mr. Campbell is one of the best shots in America, which possibly prompted him to stand forward the champion of his party. Mr. Gardenier, however, gained considerable celebrity from this rencontre, and was soon after elected by the federal party to represent the city of New York. A grand dinner was also given him on that occasion. Such is the rise of Mr. Gardenier, who bids fair to become one of the most di- stinguished characters in the Union, MR. GALLATIN. 427 ALBERT GALLATIN. THIS adopted citizen of the United States is a native of Geneva, and removed to America about the year 17/9 ; where, after surveying the country in different directions, he at length took up his residence in the western part of Pennsylvania. Until the insurrection in 179^ an d 2, on account of the excise law, Mr. Gallatin was little known or noticed. But joining himself to a set of illi- terate, lawless foreigners, and disappointed, un- principled Americans, he became clerk to their committee, which was appointed to oppose the execution of the law. The following resolution will exhibit their sentiments on the subject i " That whereas some men be found among us, so far lost to every sense of virtue and feeling for the distresses of our country, as to accept the office for the collection of the duty: " Resolved, therefore, that in future we will consider such persons as unworthy of our friend- ship; have no intercourse or dealings with them; withdraw from them every assistance, and with- hold all the comforts of life, which depend upon those duties which, as men and fellow-citizens, we owe to each other; and upon all occasions treat them with the contempt they deserve : and that it be, and it is hereby most earnestly recom 428 MR. GALLATIN. mended to the people at large, to follow the same line of conduct towards them. (Signed) " JOHN CANNON, Chairman. " ALBERT GALLATIN, Clerk." General Washington, who was at that time President, endeavoured as much as possible to prevail on the insurgents to submit, but to no purpose. Accounts were received of immense crowds of these people meeting, and resolving, in the language of rebellion, to oppose the measures of government. An army was therefore marched against them ; and the result was the destruction of some houses, and the loss of several lives. Gallatin afterwards availed himself of an act of amnesty ; but not till he saw there was no chance of escaping by any other means the punishment dt*e,to his treason. Such, however, was the violence of party-spirit in America, that in lc..g than two years after this act of treason, Gallatin was chosen one of the members in Congress for the State of Pennsylva- nia. It is of course needless to say, that his prin- ciples accorded with the democratic faction, and that he became one of their warmest partisans. Cobbett, in his political Censor, gives a ludicrous account of this gentleman in Congress,. Speaking of the debate on the " appropriation for the mint," he adverts to an expression made use of by Gal- MR. GALLATIN. 42$ latin in delivering his sentiments on the occasion, where he says, "that tk-e House of Representatives have a right, by withholding appro]) nations when they see proper, to slop the wheels of government?* When Mr. Gallatin," says Cobbett, " rose from his seat to broach this clogging principle, there was an old farmer sitting beside me to whom the person of the orator seemed familiar. 'Ah, ah!* says he, 'What's little Moses in Congress?' I sharply reprimanded him for taking one of our representatives for a Jew ; but to confess a truth, the gentleman from Geneva has an accent not un- like that of a wandering Israelite. It is neither Italian, German, nor French ; and were it not a sort of leze republicanism, I would say he clipped the king's English most unmercifully. Such an accent is admirably adapted for extolling the value of leaden buckles, or for augmenting the discordant bowlings of a synagogue ; but it throws a certain air of ridicule over the debates of a legis- lative assembly, and forms a sort of burlesque on the harmonious eloquence of the other members. " When I told the good jog trot to take care what he was saying, for that the personage then on his legs was no other than the great Gallatin; he opened his eyes, and with a look and voice expressive of an honest indignation, 'What!' says he, ' that same Gallatin, who was one of the leaders in the western insurrection?* I could 430 MR. EMMETT. not help smiling at the simplicity of my country friend, in not perceiving that such a circumstance was the highest proof of Mr. Gallatin's patriotism, and the only one that recommended him to the suffrages of his constituents. ' No wonder,' says the fanner, ( that he wants to stop the wheels of government. I wish he'd attempt to stop the wheels of my waggon as I am going down hill.' ' God forgive me!' (says Cobbett) 6 but I believe I said Amen?" Such is the man whom Mr. Jefferson afterwards thought fit to appoint to the important office of Secretary of the Treasury ! That Mr. Gallatin possesses great financial talents, is the only apo- logy that can be urged in Mr. Jefferson's defence^ for bestowing an office of so much trust on a foreigner, and a traitor to his adopted country. THOMAS ADDIS EMMETT. THOMAS ADDIS EMMETT is the son of Dr. Ro- bert Emmett, formerly an eminent physician in Ireland, and was originally brought up to his father's profession ; but in 1787 he became a stu- dent of the Middle Temple, London, and was admitted a barrister in the Irish Courts in 1790. MR. EMMETT. 431 Dr. Em melt had two other sons, Temple and Robert. The former, who was bred up to the law, died at an early age; and the latter fell a victim to revolutionary principles, being executed in Dublin in 1803, on account of the insurrection which terminated in the death of Lord Kilwarden, the Chief Justice of Ireland. Thomas Addis Emmett, who with his brothers had always been attached to democratic princi- ples, joined the confederacy of United Irishmen in 1790 and 1791; which ultimately led to the rebellion of 1798. The event of that unhappy contest is well known ; and Mr. Emmett, toge- ther with Arthur O'Connor, Dr. M'Nevin, and other leading revolutionists, were apprehended, and imprisoned in Fort George, in Scotland. During the peace of 1802, Mr. Emmett and the rest of his fellow- prisoners were liberated, and allowed to reside in France. The subject of this memoir, however, true to democratic princi- ples, soon became disgusted with the despotic tyranny of Bonaparte, and left the enslaved French to enjoy freedom in America. There he was received by the ruling party with congratula- tions, and by the federalists with civility. Mr. Emmett has settled at New York, and practises as counsellor at law with considerable success. He is married, and has several children, and appears between forty and fifty years of age. 432 MR. EMMBTT. He is said to be amiable in private life, and emi- nent in his public capacity. Unfortunately his enmity to Great Britain, and predilection for political contests, has tempted him to mingle in the disputes which distract and divide the citizens of New York. It is said that he aspires to a seat in Congress, and consequently administers to the prejudices of the prevailing party, which, luckily for his consistency, happens to harmonize with his political enmity to Great Britain. Yet he should haye refrained from endeavouring to widen the breach, in a city where he has experienced so much hospitality and kindness. I had an opportunity once of hearing him plead in an action brought by Messrs. Wrights, Quakers, against the underwriters at New York. It was for the insurance of a ship from New York to Batavia, and back. On her return voyage, the vessel was carried into Barbadoes and condemned, for having sold two cables and a hundred pieces of duck to the Dutch government at Batavia, which was considered as a breach of neutrality, by supplying a belligerent with naval stores of which he was greatly in want. The plea set up was, " That the Batavian government being greatly distressed for those stores, and understand- ing that such were on board the ship, insisted upon having them ; and that the captain did not think it prudent to risk the safety of his ship by MR. EMMETT. 433 refusing their demand." He, however, had made neither protest nor opposition of any kind ; but had erased the entry of the sale of them, which had been made in the log-book by the mate. It was the suspicion arising from the last circum- stance, that had caused the detention of the vessel, and led to its final condemnation. Mr. Emmett pleaded for the owners. His arguments were, 1st. That the surplus of naval stores carried out was necessary for the safety of the ship, and was no more than a fair proportion for so long a voyage. 2d. That the necessities of the Batavian government were so urgent for those stores, that they valued them above money ; and to have re- sisted their demand, would have caused the seizure of the ship. 3d. That the ship afterwards went from Batavia to the Isle of Bourbon, took in a cargo and sailed for America, was taken on her passage, and condemned by the British at Barba- does. He therefore contended, that though the former cargo might be contraband of war, and illegally disposed of, it did not affect the home cargo. 4th. That, at all events, whether the con- demnation was just or illegal, the under-writers insured risks, and ought to pay. A verdict was given in favour of the plaintiffs for 72,000 dollars. Emmett is a plain-dressing man, and appears about forty-five years of age, He speaks with more vehemence than eloquence, VOJL, II, 2 F 434 MR. EMMETT. and seems rather fond of amplification and ver- bosity. The spectators in court were much pleased with the decision of the jury ; for the underwriters will seldom pay the insurance upon a vessel without an action, though the case perhaps will hardly admit of a dispute. I do not believe there are any people in the world more keen and shrewd in business than the Americans, or that will yield up a point that militates against their interest with greater reluctance. In their transactions with each other, it is often diamond cut diamond, as will appear by the following anecdote: Mr. B , an eminent merchant, expecting the ar- rival of a valuable vessel every day, gave orders to Mr. H , an underwriter, for its insurance. In a few hours after, news was brought him, that his vessel had gone ashore in a gale of wind, and was lost within a few miles of Sandy Hook. The old gentleman was afraid the underwriter would get information of it before the insurance was made, and therefore sent his clerk instantly Mr. H , to say, that if he had not filled the policy, he did not wish him to do it, as there was now no occasion Jo?' it. The other being ig- norant of the fact, thought that the vessel ha( arrived safe in port, and instantly replied that il was already made out: this, however, was not th< case; but he directly stepped into a back room. GENERAL MOREAU. 435 made his clerk fill up the policy, returned with it to the counting-house, and delivered it to Mr. B 's clerk. In a quarter of an hour after, he learnt that the vessel was totally lost. He was so mortified at the bite, that he refused to pay the insurance ; but Mr. B brought an action against him, and recovered the whole amount. GENERAL MOREAU. THIS celebrated general was born at Morlaix, in Low Brittany, now included in the department of La Vendee. His father was a man of great respectability, and on account of his integrity, disinterestedness, and private virtues, (although a lawyer,) was generally called the father of the poor. On the breaking out of the revolution, such was the general confidence in his honesty, that he was selected by the gentry and nobility of Morlaix, and its neighbourhood, more espe- cially those who proposed to emigrate, as the most proper person to be intrusted with the management of their affairs. The great number of deposits which he received on this occasion from the nobles and emigrants, contributed not a little to bring him afterwards to the guillotine. He was put to death at Brest, under the govern- 2 F 2 436 GENERAL MOREAU, ment of Robespierre, by order of Prieur, then on a mission in the department of Finisterre. It is not a little remarkable, that on the very same day the father suffered by the command of the tyrant, the victorious son entered Sluys in triumph, and added it to the dominions of the Republic! Several eye-witnesses have declared, that the people present at his execution shed torrents of tears, exclaiming several times " They are taking our father away from us /" Young Moreau evinced from his early youth a strong prepossession for a military life, and at the age of eighteen actually enlisted as a soldier. His father, however, who considered this conduct as the effect of imprudence, bought his congt, and sent him back to resume his studies. Whether the law proved an unpleasant profession to him, or whether his propensity for arms got the better of every other inclination, it is certain that he soon enlisted again. The elder Moreau, hurt at this second act of rashness, with a view that he might experience some of the hardships of the life he had chosen, suffered him to serve as a private for a few months; after which he was prevailed upon by his friends not to let the young man continue any longer in that low condition, as it would occasion him to lose the benefit of an early education. Before the revolution, a man who was not of the cast of GENERAL MOREAU. 437 noblesse had but little hope of advancement in the army, whatever might have been his merit. Moreau was therefore, almost in spite of himself, compelled again to return to the dry study of the Jaw, and to follow the profession of his father, who was eminent in this line. When the revolution took place, Moreau was Prevot de droit at Rennes, a mark of superiority among the students in law. In that office he ac- quitted himself to the complete satisfaction of every body. In 1788 the States of Brittany as- sembled at Rennes; but there being a disunion between the privileged orders and the tiers etat, young Moreau, with three others, was deputed, on the part of the people, to confer with the As- sembly. He and his colleagues managed this affair with 'so much ability, that the popular party obtained a complete triumph. The States were dissolved, and the young men of Nantz, who had assembled in great numbers, returned home peaceably. From this period Moreau' s reputation daily in- creased ; and upon the formation of the national guards in 1789 he was made a colonel of one of the battalions. This honourable situation fur- nished Moreau with an opportunity of indulging his inclination for a military life. He accordingly soon abandoned the dry and tedious study of the law, and applied himself to tactics with such 438 GENERAL MOREAU. steadiness, that in less than three months he was perfectly adequate to the command which had been intrusted to him. Expert military men have declared, that he became so great a proficient in his new study, as to be better acquainted with the management of a battalion, and the evolution and manoeuvres incident to it, than many old officers. Such at that time was the persuasion of Moreau of his own capacity for military affairs, that he was heard several times to exclaim, " I shall soon become a commander." He indeed laboured so successfully to obtain his object, that his skilfulness and courage were not long unno- ticed, especially while serving under Pichegru. He was in June 1794 promoted to the rank of general-in-chief, and conducted the sige of Ypres, which he took in twelve days after the opening of the trenches. It is not necessary that I should follow General Moreau in his victorious career during the various campaigns in which he has served with so much credit to himself, and benefit to his country ; for, to detail his actions in a manner worthy of so ce- lebrated a character, they should occupy volumes rather than a few pages. The famous retreat from Bavaria, and the battle of Hohenlinden, are however the chefs-d'oeuvre of Moreau ; and he needs no other trophy to establish his character as one of the greatest generals of the age. GENERAL MOREAU. 43O, Moreau, notwithstanding his brilliant services in the cause of his country, has experienced nothing but insults and ingratitude in return. The man who after the victory of Hohenlinden said to Moreau, " General, you have made the campaign of a consummate and great captain, while I have only made the campaign of a young and fortunate man" became his greatest enemy. Bonaparte could ill brook such a rival as Moreau; and notwithstanding the latter was generally beloved by the army and the people, he had no sooner usurped the crown of France than he con- trived to ruin him, Moreau, indeed, made no secret of his senti- ments respecting Bonaparte's usurpation ; and he was heard to declare at a ball at Madame Reca- mier's, where many of the Corsican's favourites were present, " That it is, and must be, an eternal indelible shame and reproach to thirty millions of Frenchmen, not to find amongst themselves one individual with talents enough to govern them ; and to suffer the despotism of a cruel fo- reigner, who has waded through floods of French blood to usurp the throne of France." With every acknowledgement of Moreau's dis- interested patriotism and integrity, it cannot be supposed that he could view the conduct of Bona- parte without sentiments of envy and jealousy at his success. It is not in the nature of man to feel 440 GENERAL MOREAU. otherwise ; and particularly such a man as Mo- reau, who knew himself to be both an older officer and a more able general. He therefore courted rather than shunned the displeasure of his rival; and I question whether he does not feel more sa- tisfaction in his exile, than if he were living in France, and mingling with the upstarts of the court of St. Cloud. Bonaparte, it may naturally be supposed, wanted very little stimulus to rid himself of Moreau. He would no doubt gladly have sent him to the guillotine along with Georges and the rest of the Chouans; but he dreaded the resentment of the people and the army. A deportation was there- fore the only remedy ; and Moreau was sent to spend the remainder of his days in America. His conduct during his residence in that coun- try has been the subject of much newspaper criti- cism and private remark ; though, as far as I have been able to judge, his behaviour seems irreproach- able. The country has indeed been for many years past, and is at this day, so beset with the intriguing emissaries of France, that the public, who are apt to view things superficially, watch the motions of General Moreau with the utmost suspicion ; and every little action of his for which they cannot account, is immediately set down to his disadvantage. The natural reserve of General Moreau, and the desire which he appears to have GENERAL MOREAU. 441 of remaining as private as possible, are also cal- culated to feed the suspicions of the multitude; the greater part of whom consider him in the light of a French spy. His journey to New Or- leans in 1808 gave rise to a thousand rumours, and served to create alarm in the minds of those who had become tired of the very name of revo- lution. Hence his situation even in America was far from being pleasant to a man of a noble and generous mind, who scorns to imbue his hands in. the blood of his fellow-creatures to serve a mean and ignoble purpose. That General Moreau (as many people supposed) was the tool of Bonaparte, and his secret agent in America, I cannot, from the known integrity of his character, for a moment believe. Never, surely, would he renounce all his hard-earned honours in the field of battle, to become a subordinate villain! He has already declared his detestation of the usurper and his measures ; to serve such a man, he must participate in his crimes, and partake of his character. Since writing the above, this great General and humane man returned to Europe, visited General Bernadotte, the Crown Prince of Sweden, ac- cepted the chief command of the allied Russian and Prussian army, was struck by a cannon shot, which took off both his legs, near Dresden, in August, and died at Toplitz on the 3d of Sept. 1813. 442 MADAME BONAPARTE. MADAME JEROME BONAPARTE. KEEN as the Americans are, they have often been the dupes of Frenchmen ; and I should think they have hy this time had experience enough to avoid drawing the connexion between the two countries any closer. The assistance which the old government of France rendered to the Americans in the revolutionary war, is now well known to have proceeded from sinister de- signs ; and the Emperor Napoleon, we all know, excels in artful intrigues and treacherous dissi- mulation; of course, he is not likely to act in a more honourable manner than his predecessors. The Americans have been insulted in various instances by individuals as well as the govern- ment of that nation ; and the marriage of Jerome Bonaparte with Miss Patterson will ever remain a lasting memorial of the morality and good faith of the Bonapartean dynasty. Such an infamous transaction might perhaps have roused the indig- nation of the American people more than it has, had they not known that Miss P. was prompted more by ambition than love to marry Napoleon's brother. Madame Bonaparte is small in person and fea- tures, but extremely pretty ; she is elegant and MADAME JEROME BONAPARTE. 443 accomplished in manners, though somewhat tinc- tured with hauteur; yet her disposition upon the whole is amiable, and she possesses attractions and qualifications that would give a lustre even to the Court of Westphalia. I have been told that Jerome is extremely fond of her, and, while on his naval cruise on the American station, availed himself of every opportunity to be with her. The injunctions of his iron-hearted brother, how- ever, could not be avoided, and Jerome was com- pelled either to renounce the imperial connexion, or wed the Princess of Wirtemburg. The unsuccessful attempt of Madame Bona- parte to land in France ; her hospitable recep- tion in England, and subsequent return to the United States, after the birth of her son, must be fresh in the recollection of those whose minds are alive to the strange events of this extraordi- nary age. She at present resides with her father, a very respectable merchant at Baltimore, who, 1 understand, was very much averse from the mar- riage. His daughter, however, conducts herself with the utmost propriety in her present unfor- tunate state; and if she cannot fulfil the duties of a good wife, she fulfils those of a tender mo- ther, by devoting her time to the instruction and improvement of the young Jerome* 1 . * Madame Jerome Bonaparte has since been divorced from her husband by an Act of the Legislature of Baltimore. 444 MR. ROBERT R. LIVINGSTON. ROBERT R. LIVINGSTON. AMONG those who have exerted themselves to promote the cultivation of the arts in the infant republic of America, is Mr. Livingston, the late ambassador from America to the court of Napo- leon. This gentleman, who is also conspicuous as an eminent political character, was born in New York in 1745, and, after being bred to the law, was sent by that State to a meeting of the delegates in 177& He was afterwards created by the Congress minister for foreign affairs., the duties of which situation he continued to fulfil till some time after the conclusion of the war, when the government of New York named him as chancellor of that State. In 1794j when the Americans had adopted a neutral position in respect to the war in Europe, and complained (as they have always done) of both French and English depredations on their commerce, General Washington thought it ne- cessary, for the preservation of peace, to send a solemn and special legation to each of those powers. Mr. Jay was named for the mission to the court of London, and Mr. Livingston to that at Paris. The latter gentleman, however, in- formed the president, that he should decline the nomination; in consequence of which, Mr.Munro of Virginia was appointed in his room. Chancellor Livingston continued in his office till MR. ROBERT R. LIVINGSTON. 445 the year 1801, when a new vacancy happening in the embassy to France, and Mr. Jefferson being president, (in whose principles and sentiments he coincided,) he was nominated to that mission, and immediatelv repaired to Paris. There he was joined in the course of the next year by Mr. Monroe, on the business of negotiating with the French and Spanish ministers for the purchase of Louisiana and the Floridas. As both these gentlemen acted agreeably to instructions from their government, they are in some measure ex- culpated from the ignominy which appears to be attached to that transaction ; at the same time, if any thing really has been done which involves the reputation of their government, they would have acted with more virtue and integrity if they had thrown up their commissions. It however appears that Mr. Livingston soon after became either disgusted with his mysterious functions, or unable to carry his point at the court of St. Cloud; for in 1804 he returned to America, and was succeeded by General Armstrong, who re- sided in France as ambassador from the United States, till succeeded by the late Joel Barlow. During Mr. Livingston's stay at Paris, he con- ceived the design of establishing an academy of fine arts in New York. In consequence, there- fore, of his suggestions, a subscription was opened for raising a sum of money to obtain statues and paintings for the instruction of artists. Copies 446 MR. ROBERT R. LIVINGSTON. in plaster were procured of some of the finest pieces of ancient sculpture, among which were the Fighting Gladiator, the Roman Senator, the reclining Hermaphrodite, the Laocoon group, the Jupiter Tonans, Niobe, Socrates, and a number of others, These were collected together at Paris, o ' and forwarded to New York. Bonaparte after- wards made this infant academy a present of twenty-four large volumes of Italian prints, and several port-folios of drawings. These works of taste and genius are kept in a large room over the collector's office in the custom-house, until a proper building is erected for their reception. Mr. Livingston enjoys an ample patrimonial estate called the upper manor ; there being two manors of the name of Livingston, situated on the river Hudson, in the State of New York. On this was an old mansion, which he has re- built, and in which he usually resides in summer, living in that easy style of hospitality so much the characteristic of country gentlemen in En- gland. He has devoted his principal attention to agriculture and rural pursuits, and has made several very useful experiments and improve- ments in farming. He is also President of the Agricultural Society at New York, which was formed entirely by his exertions. The Society publishes its transactions annually, and the chief communications are made by Mr. Livingston. MR, BARLOW. 44? JOEL BARLOW. THE British Journalists (say the American writers) are apt to select unfavourable specimens of American literature, and then infer that the standard of intellect is low. They also sneer at, and represent the literature of the United States as coarse and superficial. The very condition of society in that country forbids its people to pos- sess as yet any very exalted literary character. A comparatively thin population spread over an immense surface of the earth, opposes many great and serious obstacles to the production, and to the circulation, of literary effusions. The infancy of its national independence, and the peculiar circumstances of its condition, do not yet allow a sufficient quantity of wealth, in- dividual and general, to be diffused through the country, to create an effectual demand for books. The means of subsistence are so easy, and the sources of personal revenue are so abundant, that almost all the talent in the country is actively employed in prosecuting some commercial or agricultural pursuit, instead of being devoted to the calmer and less lucrative labours of literature. The scarcity of public libraries renders any great attainment in science and erudition very difficult. The want of literary competitors, rewards and 448 MR. BARLOW. honours, together with the general defective means of liberal education, also conspire to deter men from dedicating themselves solely to letters. Authorship not being a distinct or separate calling in America, as it is in England, any great excellence in writing cannot be expected: yet there is more in America than appears to the public eye, as some of the best scholars in that country follow other pursuits. From the small demand for literary productions, the ablest and best informed Americans seldom or never appear as writers ; and the field is therefore almost en- tirely left clear for inferior abilities. The con- tinual influx of British publications also tends to keep down the literary spirit of the country. The facility of trade in America is a great check to literature ; for wherever that spirit is prevalent it pervades all callings. The lawyer becomes a pettifogger, hunting after suits, and fleecing his clients; and the physician is a mere compounder of drugs and extortioner of fees. The path which is easiest to wealth will always be followed; and as literature has not the advan- tages that commerce has in that respect, it will for some time be neglected. A considerable change has, however, within these few years taken place for the better. Phila- delphia, Cambridge in Massachussetts, New York, Charleston, and other cities in the Union,, have MR. BARLOW. 449 laid the foundation, and are rapidly raising the superstructure of large and valuable public libra- ries. Private individuals also, and professional men, are gathering together extensive collections of books. The seminaries of elementary educa- tion are in a progressive state of amendment; the colleges must necessarily follow their example speedily, or they will be deserted. The literary market is daily increasing in its demand for the supply of useful and elegant publications., both native and foreign ; and the continual influx, of wealth from all corners of the earjth (for the em,- bargo was considered only as a temporary measure) must contribue greatly to the improvement pf the arts, sciences and literature, by creating a desire for those refinements which follow in the train of opulence. One of t&e best and most successful recent productions in prose js the little work entitled Salmagundi *. Its authors are three respectable young men at New York, who follow either mer- cantile pursuits o,r the profession of the law. The spirit with which it has been conducted, and the success which it has met with in every part of the Union, are proofs of its merit, and afford grounds to believe that the literary spirit of America is rising fast into repute. * This work ha* been reprinted in England/ in. 2 vols. yoL. ii. 2 G 460 MR. BARLOW. The most successful poetical production o which America can boast is The Columbiad of Mr. Joel Barlow, which has recently made its appearance in the United States in a very splendid form. The author is a native of Connecticut, one of the New England states, and descended from a respectable English family, who were among the first settlers of Fairfield in tbat state. He is the youngest of ten children, and was a boy at school when his father died. The patrimonial estate was not very considerable ; and being di- vided equally among the offspring, according to the custom of that country, the portion to each was but small. Young Barlow, therefore, as he grew up, found his inheritance little more than sufficient to finish his education. In 1774 he removed from Dartmouth College, New Hampshire, to that of New Haven in Con- necticut, where in 1778 he took the degree of bachelor of arts. Mr. Barlow in his early years had repeatedly evinced a considerable taste for poetry ; and some of his juvenile pieces produced as college exercises were published, and gained him much applause. During this gentleman's residence at college the revolutionary war broke out ; and such was the enthusiasm of the moment that men of opulence enrolled themselves in the ranks, and boys deserted their schools in order to become soldiers. MR. BARLOW. 451 Mr. Barlow on that memorable occasion \vas accustomed, during his vacations, to seize his musket and fly to the camp, where four of his brothers were already in arms. He was present as a volunteer in several skirmishes, and actually assisted at one of the severest conflicts that hap- pened during the war. His love of letters, how- ever, rather than any abatement of military ardour, induced young Barlow to return from each of those excursions to his studies at New Haven. About a twelvemonth after he obtained his de- gree of bachelor of arts he procured the chap- laincy of a brigade in the Massachusetts line of the army. Mr. Barlow was very glad to obtain this appointment, as, while it afforded him an ho- nourable maintenance, it gave him leisure to pre- pare himself by study for any other pursuit to which his fancy might lead him. He continued in his clerical capacity till the conclusion of the war in 1/83; during which time he formed an extensive acquaintance among the chiefs of his nation, both civil and military ; at the ssme time he planned and nearly accomplished his poem of The Vision of Columbus. When peace once more visited the country, and the clangor of arms was exchanged for the gentle murmurs of the loom, the spinning-wheel, and the plough, Mr. Barlow removed to Hartford, the capital of Connecticut, and commenced his pre- 2G2 452 MR. BARLOW. parations for the profession of the law. As some temporary aid, however, was still necessary for subsistence, until the fees of an untried profession should begin to flow in, he purchased half the stock in trade of a printer and bookseller, with whom he entered into partnership, and aided in carrying on that complicated business, one part of which consisted in editing a newspaper. This connection continued only two years ; and in 1785 Mr. Barlow was called to the bar. The profession of a lawyer in America unites the duties both of advocate and solicitor, and the subject of this memoir now made a rapid pro- gress towards fortune, having the double advan- tage of an extensive acquaintance with some of the first characters in the country, and a considerable stock of general science and literature. In 1787 he published his "Vision of Colum- bus," a poem in nine books. This work added much to his reputation in America, and rendered him somewhat known in Europe. It was re- printed and published a few months afterwards in London by Dilly and Stockdale. But the fol- lowing year opened a new scene for Mr. Barlow, which induced him to suspend the practice of the law, which he has never since resumed. The Ohio Company, composed of a number of respectable men, many of whom Mr. Barlow had intimately known while in the army, purchased from the MR. BARLOW. 453 Congress a large tract of country lying on the border of the river of that name, consisting of be- tfveen three and four millions of acres. Their pro- ject was to sell part of these lands to foreigners, and to settle themselves on the remainder. This Company appointed Mr. Barlow their agent to transact their business in Europe ; in consequence of which he repaired to England in 1788, and soon afterwards crossed over to France. He was able to dispose of only a few lots of that fertile territory, notwithstanding every allure- ment was held out to the purchasers. Had the settlement of the Ohio territory depended solely upon emigrants from Europe, it would, instead of being one of the most flourishing states of the Union, have remained an uncultivated wilderness. Fortunately for the company, adventurers from the most populous of the New England States were attracted by their liberal offers ; and as they better understood the nature of clearing and settling of new land than Europeans, they in a short time rendered it a flourishing country. European settlers in America labour under numerous disadvantages; they are ignorant of the quickest mode of clearing land, and turning it to advantage ; they cannot submit to the hard labour and privations which the natives do ; they neither like to dwell in a log-hut that is ready to tumble about their ears, and admits the wind, the 454 MR. BARLOW. rain, or snow, in at every crevice; nor can they live for a twelvemonth together upon salt pro- visions. They are not happy unless they have their European comforts about them ; they con- sider themselves as strangers in a foreign land ; shut up in a gloomy wilderness among the beasts of the forest, and separated as it were from all hu- man society. Hence they either fail a prey to melancholy and dejection, or to the numerous diseases which strangers are liable to in a newly settled country, occasioned for the most part by the mephkic vapours of the woods and marshes. The Americans on the contrary consider the fo- rests as their natural habitations ; they were born in them ; and, like the wandering Indians, they emigrate from state to state, from one spot of land to another, increasing their property and improv- ing the country. They submit to all the hardships of such a life with cheerfulness ; and though like Europeans they are sometimes subject to the dis- eases of those new countries, yet they do not so often become the victims of them. They are also well acquainted with the quality and localities of a lot of land before they purchase it ; the want of which knowledge has often ruined an European adventurer. Every thing with them is turned to some advantage or other; and instead of wasting their time in grubbing up the roots of trees to give their plantation a handsome appearance, MR. BARLOW. 455 they leave the stumps in the ground, and sow their corn between them. They live upon the coarsest and most sparing diet, and dwell in the most miserable huts for the first year or two, til] they have paid their expenses and are something in pocket ; which they contrive to accomplish by the sale or barter of their crops of corn, their wood ashes, their shingles, their timber, and cattle. These are disposed of as the local situation of the farm enables them, and as occasion requires, to some great proprietor or merchant in the town, ship, without whom, or some other opening for the sale of their produce, the clearing of land is but a barren speculation. An European, there- fore, who wishes to embai k in the clearing of lands in America, should consider well of all the incon- veniences, privations, and obstacles which he must encounter, and the measures which he must adopt in the prosecution of such an undertaking, before he quits his own country. He must also make up his mind to be a loser in the outset of the thing, and to expend three or four hundred pounds, even on the most moderate computation, before he can expect to establish himself permanently. *Many Europeans have spent thousands in such specula- tions in America, and have afterwards returned home beggars. People now begin to have their eyes opened rather more than formerly to the il- lusive offers of land-owners, even in Canada as well 4$6 JC1R. BAtfLOWi as the United States, whose interest it is to have their property cultivated and improved. To those* who have any inclination to settle in North Ame-^ fica,and are unacquainted with the necessary steps that are to be taken under such circumstances, the hints which I have offered may perhaps be of con- siderable importance to them, and prevent their embarking in a hazardous speculation without the necessary precautions. To return to the subject of this memoir, we find him in 1791-2 taking an active part in forwarding the principles of the French revolution as a mem- ber of the Constitutional Society of London. In that capacity he was nominated by the society to go over to France, in company with another mem* ber, and present au address from the society to the National Convention of France. " As the re- lations of peace," says Mr. Barlow's biographer, " which still existed and were kept up between the two countries had not then been disturbed, these two gentlemen undertook the task, doubt- less without foreseeing the consequences that re* suited from that measure. It Soon after became the subject of legal inquiry, and is said to have given birth to the State trials which took place iii the year 1794." The result of this rash step was, that Mr. Bar- low could not return to England, though he had departed with the intention of being absent only MR. BARLOW, 457 tsvo or three weeks, and had left his wife in Lon- don, and his private concerns unsettled. He there- fore sent for Mrs. Barlow, and soon after accom- panied some of the deputies who were sent from the Convention on a mission to Savoy, in order to forward the views of the inhabitants, who appeared eager to throw off the yoke of Victor Amadeus, King of Sardinia. In this mission Mr. Barlow was actively en- gaged, and wrote several inspiriting addresses to the people, for which services the Convention de- creed him the title of a French citizen. About this period the French intrigues in America began to alarm the Government ; and General Washing- ton, whose only wish was to remain in peace with all the world, no doubt saw with secret displeasure the activity of his countrymen in propagating the dangerous tenets of the French Government, both in Europe and America. It is most likely, there- fore, that the order which Mr. Barlow received in 1795' from President Washington, to repair to the States of Barbary for the purpose of forming treaties with those powers, and redeeming the captive Americans from slavery j was chiefly to divert that gentleman from his revolutionary prac- tices, and check the spirit of Jacobinism among Americans abroad as well as at home. Mr. Barlow immediately obeyed the President's commands, and to his honour performed the ob- 458 MR. BARLOW. jects of his mission in the most satisfactory man- ner. He negotiated treaties of peace with Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli ; and redeemed the American prisoners from captivity. In 1797 ne returned to Paris; but as all the objects of the revolution which a friend to humanity could desire to have seen established, were overthrown and buried be- neath tyranny and oppression, Mr. Barlow re- mained an unconcerned spectator in that country till he returned to America in 1805 *. It was during this period of inactivity in poli- tical affairs, that he had leisure to lay the founda- tion of the poem called " The Columbiad," which he has since completed and published in a very splendid manner. This .poem is an enlargement of his Vision of Columbus, and is comprised in ten books. Columbus is the hero of the poem, and Hesper, who is represented as the guardian genius of the western continent, appears to him in prison ; into which he had been thrown after being recalled from his government in the New World. The Genius endeavours to soothe and elevate his desponding spirit by anticipating the great events that were to flow from his illustrious deeds. Leaving the prison together, they ascend * Mr. Barlow was appointed ambassador to the Court of France in 1812. The misfortunes of Napoleon, however, frus- trated his journey to Moscow 3 and he died on his return* t Parig from chagrin and fatigue. MR. BARLOW. 459 to the summit of a high mountain, from whence the immense Continent of America is laid open to the view of the hero. From this elevated spot Hesper describes to Columbus the geographical position or prominent parts of the New World ; the state of the natives; and foretells the cruelties arid devastations which are to ensue in the Spanish possessions of Mexico and Peru. He then proceeds to the settlement of the English colonists in America; and describes in glowing colours the revolutionary conflict in which they ultimately obtain their independence. Such are the main points of the poem ; the sub- ordinate parts are diversified with episodes and fanciful images^ which tend to illustrate the sub- ject and embellish the poem. The greatest disadvantage which this poem lies under is the necessity of having its events foretold in a vision. Hence we are but little interested with the hero, who ought to be the life and soul of the poem. In the Iliad we have Achilles ov Hector to charm us ; in the Odyssey we have Ulysses ; in the ^Eneid, uEneas : all of whom are ever present to our imagination, and concerned in the events before us : but Columbus is a mere in- animate personage who hears all and does no- thing. Mr. Barlow has, however, had a very dif- ficult task to perform. Modern history is not at all adapted for such poems ; the events ought to 46*0 MR. BARLO\V. be mellowed by time ; and if somewhat involved in obscurity, the author can better employ his fictitious agents in the business of the scene. His " River gods "and " Gods of Frost " can then take an active part with much more propriety ; nay, their very existence perhaps may not then be questioned : but when we see a modern general struggling with one of these imaginary foes, and recent facts blended with fictitious events, our reason, in spite of every poetical license in their favour, will revolt at such incongruities. These disadvantages do not, however, affect the merits of the poem in other respescts. Mr, Bar- low has displayed considerable taste and talents in the management of the subject, and has given the transactions of so long a period with much spirit and elegance. If he had said less upon some un- pleasant events of the revolutionary war, it would have displayed more impartiality, and rendered the work less objectionable ; but to dwell upon the subject of the " prison-ships," and display their horrors in an engraving, is not at all calcu- lated to promote that " harmony and felicity be^ tween nations," which he makes Hesper predict to Columbus in the two last books of his poem. Mr. Barlow has also suffered his better judge- ment to be influenced by a desire which has often evinced itself in many of his countrymen, of esta- blishing what they denominate an "American MR. BARLOVY. 46l language" but which, in fact, is nothing more than pedantic and distorted English. Many of these American expressions have crept into the Columbiad, to the utter disfiguration of several otherwise beautiful passages ; and that which ought to have been elegant and sublime, is no- thing but mere fustian and bombast. Yet, upon the whole, the Columbiad is entitled to a considerable share of applause ; it evinces in the author abilities of no mean stamp, and pos- sesses merits which are not to be found but in works of a superior cast. It is also the produc- tion of an "infant country," and on that account should be viewed in a more favourable light than if it had emanated from the birth-place of a Ho- mer, ,a Virgil, or a Milton. Every spark of genius that is emitted from the Western Continent should be hailed with satisfaction ; and instead of being extinguished by the pestilential breath of partial castigators, which, like the parching blast of the Arabian Simoom, destroys every thing with- in its reach, it should be fanned into a flame by the rnild and gentle treatment of judicious critics. We might then hope to see the genius of the an- cient world engrafted upon the new hemisphere ; and if ever the day should come, that the modern powerful nations of Europe are compelled to .transfer their sceptres like those of Greece and 462 CHIEF JUSTICE JAY. Rome to a more western rival, it would be some satisfaction to Englishmen to know that that rival was descended from the ancient stock of their own nation, and had preserved the language, manners, genius, and laws of their ancestors. CHIEF JUSTICE JAY. THIS gentleman, who is better known in En- gland from the treaty which he negotiated on the part of his country than by any very prominent acts during the revolutionary war, is descended from a French family who emigrated to America during the persecutions of the Hugonots in the reign of Louis XIV. His ancestors, with a number of other refugees, landed at New York about the time that colony was ceded to Great Britain by the Dutch. These persons purchased a tract of land within twenty miles of the city, on which they settled, and called the place New Rochelle, in remembrance of the sea- port of that name from which they had sailed. They retained their lan- guage and customs for a considerable time ; but their religion and politics being the same as those of their English neighbours, they approximated by degrees; and like their brethren who settled in CHIEF JUSTICE JAY. -463 England, they have for the last two generations become one and the same people, their French origin being discernible only by their names. Mr. Jay was born at New Rochelle in 1734, and received his education at New York. He afterwards took up the profession of the law, and was in considerable practice when the revo- lutionary war broke out. This event called him, as it did many others, from private into public life; he being deputed as a member to the first Congress, the duties of which station he conti- nued to perform until he was chosen President in 1777* He was afterwards sent as minister pleni- potentiary to Spain, when that country had de- termined to join France in the war. In this situ- ation he continued till he was nominated joint commissioner with Franklin and Adams, who were then at the courts of France and Holland, to treat with Great Britain for peace whenever an opening presented itself. This did accordingly take place in 1783, and Mr. Jay assisted in the treaty which gave to his country liberty and in- dependence. Mr. Jay, on his return to America, was ap- pointed to the office of minister for foreign affairs, until the formation of the new constitution in 17 8 9- ^ n tnat memorable occasion he was ho- noured by President Washington, in concurrence with the voice of the senate, with the appoint- 46*4 COMMODORE BARRCW, ment of chief justice of the United States, an office of great power and responsibility. In 1794 he was sent as envoy extraordinary to England, for the purpose of negotiating a treaty of com- merce, and to settle the differences and disputes which had arisen between the two countries. This desirable object Mr.' Jay accomplished ; and happily prevented, at that revolutionary pe- riod, a destructive war between England and the United States. So unpopular, however, were both the treaty and its negotiator, that Mr. Jay, on his return to America, found it necessary to resign his official situation as chief justice. He was soon after elected governor of New York, which place he continued to hold for several years, until he de- clined any further election, and retired to hi estate, where he enjoys the consolation of having served his country faithfully in its most trying moments, and of never having soiled his fair by one single act of vice or weakness. COMMODORE BARRON. IT is certainly not the interest of such a coun- try as the United States to keep up a large and expensive naval establishment, otherwise we might COMMODORE BARRON. 465 be surprised that her marine force was formerly on such a despicable footing. It consisted of only ten frigates, from twenty-four to forty- four guns each, most of which were unserviceable; twelve sloops from seven to sixteen guns each ; and sixty- nine gun-boats of one gun each. This latter species of force is said to be the favourite hobby of Mr. Jefferson, who conceived that it was quite sufficient for defensive purposes. The gun-boats are certainly very well adapted for action in shallow waters ; but unfortunately for the United States, most of their principal sea-port towns lie open to the attack of line-of battle ships, against which it would be impossible for gun-boats to be of any service. They therefore can be useful only in aiding the municipal regulations of the States: this they have sufficiently evinced since the em- bargo, for without them the spirit of mercantile adventure would have rendered the law nugatory. There were not above three or four frigates in commission, and perhaps only two that were pre- pared for immediate service. The expense of the naval establishment was about 300,000/. sterling per annum, and nearly one half of that sum was ex- pended in repairs. Notwithstanding this imbe- cile state of the American navy, it can boast of many brave and excellent officers, some of whom have at different periods distinguished themselves against the French and the Tripolitans in several VOL. II. 2.H 466 COMMODORE BARfcON, Severe engagements. Among them, the of Truxton, Rodgers, Decatur, Bainbridge, and Campbell, are the most conspicuous ; nor must we omit that of Barron, who, though placed in a most unfortunate dilemma by the obstinacy of his own Government, and the ill-judged measures of one of our admirals, is, notwithstanding the misfortune that befel him, a brave and excellent seaman. The attack upon the Chesapeake frigate was sudden and unexpected, otherwise Captain Barron would certainly have prepared his ship for action on the probability of such an event. It appears that he left port under no apprehension of such an attack ; and it is positively said that he was ignorant of any British deserters being at that time on board; but that the officer who was on the recruiting party had enrolled four of our men under false names, and as American citizens, (cer- tificates of which might easily be obtained for a false oath and a dollar,) and had sent them on board the Chesapeake without acquainting Cap- tain Barron who they really were. The captain, of course, did not trouble himself to scrutinize the history of his seamen, many of whom he had good reason to believe were Englishmen, though perhaps not deserters; they might have entered from British merchantmen: if so, he was justified in his assertion to Captain Humphries, that he COMMODORE BARRON* 46*7 had no deserters on board, to his knowledge, and in that respect cannot be accused of speaking falsely. It is not, however, my wish to vindicate the American Government, or even Captain Barron, from the charge of encouraging British deserters to enter their naval service ; all that I aim at is to place things in their true light, without favour or affection for one person or nation rather than another. That Captain Barron was culpable " for neglecting, on the probability of an engagement, to clear his ship for action," there is no doubt, since it was on that charge, and on that alone, that the court-martial sentenced him to be sus- pended from all command in the navy for five years. Upon every other allegation he was ho- nourably acquitted. The following extract from the opinions of the Court upon the fourth and last charge will serve to explain their sentiments on the subject, with- out entering into a detail of the several specifi- cations : " The attack of the Leopard was not suitably- repelled by the Chesapeake, because it appears to the court, that, circumstanced as the two ships then were, boarding the Leopard would have been impracticable ; and, of course, no other means of repelling her attack remained but in the use of the Chesapeake's guns. That all these guns were 2H2 463 COMMODORE BARRON. loaded, and not one of them was fired before the flag of the Chesapeake was struck, is most certain ; but yet it appears to the Court, that Captain Barron, and the officers commanding divisions, did every thing which the}' could do to get them fired; and that the colours were not struck until all reasonable hope of succeeding in properly re- pelling the attack, in this way, was lost. The injuries sustained, either in the Chesapeake or her crew, did not at that time make her surrender necessary. Captain Barron might have waited until she had received many more and greater injuries, and had lost the lives and services of many more of her crew, before he could have been compelled by these causes to have struck his flag. But, during this interval of certain injury, he could have had no reasonable hope, even after he had sustained it, of doing any thing to the annoyance of his adversary. And in such a si- tuation, he stands justified in the opinion of the Court in striking his flag. The striking his flag without consulting his officers, is a circumstance which this Court considers of no consequence. It is not the duty of a commander, under any cir- cumstances, (and in the situation in which Cap- tain Barron then was it would have been highly improper,) to consult his inferior officers as to the propriety of hauling down his colours. It is the opinion of the Court, therefore, thatCaptain James COMMODORE BARRON. Barron is NOT GUILTY under this fourth and last charge, * for not doing his utmost to take or de- stroy the Leopard, which vessel it was his duty to encounter,' as this charge is explained and limited by the specifications annexed to it. " In giving these opinions, it will be perceived that the Court have felt themselves bound to con- sider the several charges preferred as explained arid limited by the specifications annexed to them respectively. The opinion of the Court, therefore, upon the charges of which they have acquitted the accused is to be considered in no other way, than that he is not guilty under these charges as so explained and limited. No transposition of the specifications, or any other modifications of the charges themselves, would alter the opinion of the Court as to the firmness and courage of the accused. The evidence upon this head is clear and satisfactory. " The Court having agreed in the preceding opinions that Captain James Barron, although not guilty of three of the charges preferred against him, is nevertheless guilty under that wherein he is accused ' for neglecting, on the probability of an engagement, to clear his ship for action/ do further agree, that the said Captain Jnrnes Barron, being guilty of this charge, falls under part of the fourth article of the Rules and Regulations for the Government of the Navy of the United States, 470 COMMODORE BARRON* adopted by an Act of the Congress of the United States, passed on the twenty-third day of April, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hun- dred, and entitled ' An Act for the better Go- vernment of the Navy of the United States ;' and they do adjudge and SENTENCE the said Cap- tain James Barron to be SUSPENDED from all command in the Navy of the United States, and this without pay or official emoluments of any kind, for the period and term of FIVE YEARS, from this eighth day of February in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and eight, "JOHN RODGERS, WM. BAINBRIDGE, HUGH G. CAMPBELL, STEPHEN DECATUR, JUN. JOHN SHAW, JOHN SMITH, D. PORTER, JOS. TARBELL, J. JONES, JAS. LAWRENCE, CHAS. LUDLOW, LITTIN W. TAZEWELL, Judge Advocate" The above sentence was confirmed ly the Pre- sident of the United States* DR. MITCHILL. DR. MITCHILL. DR. MITCHILL was a boy when the declaration of independence was made in 177^ an ^ had not attained maturity when that independence was allowed and confirmed by Great Britain. He spent several years immediately subsequent to the establishment of peace in Europe, visiting France, England and Scotland, for the purpose of education. Being destined for the profession of physic, he took a doctor's degree at Edinburgh in the autumn of 1786, and the next year re- turned to his native country. It is related of Dr. Mitchill, that he imbibed a taste for natural history when a child by reading Goldsmith's " Animated Nature," which accidentally fell into his hands. This was afterwards much improved by a sight of the cabinets in London and Paris, but more particularly by the lectures and experi- ments of Dr. Black, and the discourses and exhi- bition of specimens by Professor Walker. On leaving Europe, he was intrusted with public dispatches from Mr. Adams, Minister Plenipo- tentiary from the United States at the Court of St. James's, to some of the heads of departments in the American Government. He arrived in America just in season to witness the progress of another revolution in the national government, 472 DR. MITCHILL. from the loose and ill-compacted confederation of the States, hastily conceived during the war, to the more efficient and better planned system of the new Federal Constitution. Dr. Mitchill's political principles being in uni- son with those of the republican or democratic party, he was chosen to represent the city of New York in Congress soon after Mr. Jefferson's election to the presidency. He is consequently numbered among the friends of that gentleman, and continues to support the measures of Mr. Madison, his successor. * The attention of Dr. Mitchill has been a good deal directed to philosophical objects ; in the prosecution of which he has carried on a very extensive correspondence, not only with the learned men and societies of his own country, but also with those of Europe. The subjects which he has investigated with most labour, are, the production, composition, and operation of pesti- lential fluids, or the history of those cases or va- pours which infect the atmosphere, and excite febrile distempers. The doctrine of Septon, of- fered to the world by him and his pupils, in consequence of these investigations, forms a me- morable feature in modern science. Dr. Mitchill has also a considerable taste for poetry ; but very few of his labours in that department of the belles lettres have yet found their way into print. He GENERAL PINCKNEY. resides at New York, where he enjoys the com- forts of a moderate fortune, and the esteem of his fellow citizens. GENERAL PINCKNEY. THE family of the Pinckneys are among the most respectable of those who at the commence- ment of the revolutionary contest took an active part in favour of American independence. Ge- neral Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, and his bro- ther Thomas, are both natives of the State of South Carolina, where they still reside on their respective estates. The General was born about the year 1740, and when of a proper age was sent with his bro- ther to be educated at one of our public schools in England. On the breaking out of the revo- lutionary war, his father, who was at that time Chief Justice of South Carolina, joined the pa- triotic party, while his son Charles, who was then a member of the General Assembly of that State, resigned his situation, and joined the American standard. Mr. Pinckney entered the ranks as one of the Charleston Volunteers; from which he was after- 4*6 GENERAL PINCKNEY. obtained leave to return to his native country, where he accordingly resumed the command of his regiment, at the head of which he made an assault on Savannah. On his return from Georgia, Colonel Pinckney was appointed by General Lincoln commandant of Fort Moultrie ; but on Charleston being be- sieged by land, and bombarded by a part of the British fleet, the Colonel's regiment was ordered to its defence ; when alter a gallant resistance he was with the remainder of the garrison taken prisoner, under honourable terms of capitulation. This event appears to have terminated the mili- tary career of Colonel Pinckney, as he could not procure himself to be exchanged till towards the conclusion of the war. Peace had no sooner taken place, than Mr. Pinckney was appointed a delegate to the Federal Congress, and signed the present Constitution of the United States in the year 1788. On the score of gratitude to the French, though an im- pulse very different from friendship caused them to take the part of America, he, with many lead- ing characters in the United States, was the avowed advocate of that nation, and so continued till their enormities changed those sentiments to the contempt and hatred of all good men. Mr. Pinckney has additional cause to despise them; for the then insolent republic refused to ac- MR. MONROE. 477 knowledge him as the minister plenipotentiary at Paris. Mr. Pinckney was afterwards commander-in- chief of the militia of South Carolina, and was third in command under General Washington when the United States army was sent to quell the western insurrection. General Pinckney has been employed in several diplomatic missions, in which, if it has not been his good fortune always to succeed, he has been guided by a patriotic re- gard for the interests of his country, and di- splayed an open and conciliating spirit of negotia- tion best calculated to preserve peace and unani- mity with foreign nations. JAMES MONROE. THIS gentleman is a native of Virginia, and between fifty and sixty years of age. He was educated at the college of Williamsburg in that state, and bred to the law. It is said that his studies preparatory to that profession were directed by Mr. Jefferson ; and between these two gentlemen there has, till lately, existed the greatest attachment. Mr. Monroe inherited from his parents but a very slender fortune; and it MR. MONROE. seemed necessary, if he would arrive at indepen- dence in this respect, that he should adhere to his professional avocations, and pursue them with assiduity: but he was destined to more brilliant though less lucrative pursuits. He was early brought into public life, where his services, in a variety of employments, have met with the ap- probation of his fellow-citizens. He had scarcely attained the age of twenty-one when he was sent to Congress, which situation he afterwards resigned for a commission in the army; but going rather late into the military line, and after the period of rapid promotion had passed away, he rose only to the rank of colonel during the revolutionary contest. He is allowed to have served with honour and reputation ; but we do not find any actions of great eclat in which his name appears. Peace had no sooner put an end to this em- ployment than he returned to his former profes- sion at the bar. But he was almost immediately delegated again to Congress ; and his election to this body was annually repeated, nearly without an interval, during the space often years* In 1794 Mr. Monroe was sent to France in quality of minister to that republic. Mr. Jay was at the same time sent to England, and was fortunate enough to conclude a treaty of amity and commerce, which soon restored a good un- MR. MONROE. 4*9 derstanding between the two countries. Mr. Monroe was not so successful in his negotiation ; he had to deal with the most unjust, rapacious, and villainous set of people that ever disgraced the government of a civilized nation. The failure cannot, therefore, be attributed to any want of abilities on his part ; but rather to the insolent vanity of the French Government. After a residence of two years at Paris, Mr. Monroe was charged by the federal administration with being too complaisant to the overbearing temper of the French Directory, who were anxious to involve America in a war with England. He was consequently recalled with a high degree of censure. After demanding of the Secretary of State a written declaration of the motives of his recall, he published his defence, which was of course well received by the republican party, of which he was a member, and who were then availing themselves of every opportunity to ren- der the federalists unpopular. Mr. Monroe was shortly after elected governor of Virginia, which office he filled by re-elections for three years, the longest period, according to the constitution of that state, that the same per- son can be eligible to that office until after an interval of three other years. About the expira- tion of this term Mr. Monroe was sent to join Mr. Livingston, the American minister at Paris, 480 MR. MONROE. for the purpose of settling the differences hetween Spain and the United States, and negotiating for the purchase of Louisiana. After accomplishing the objects of his mission, he repaired to England as ambassador from the United States ; and was afterwards joined by Mr. William Pmckney, who was sent to this country as joint commissioner with Mr. Monroe for the purpose of settling all differences between Great Britain and the United States, and to renew the treaty of amity and commerce between the two countries. The fate of the treaty concluded by these gen- tlemen and His Majesty's commissioners is well known. The terms of it were far from being palatable to the British public; yet the treaty had no sooner arrived in America than it was rejected by Mr. Jefferson without consulting the Senate. It of course returned to England unra- o tified; which, though it had failed in settling our differences with the United States, immediately terminated the disputes that had arisen amongst ourselves respecting the favourable terms granted to the Americans. The rejection of this treaty by the President placed the American commissioners in rather an awkward predicament; and Mr. Monroe, in par- ticular, experienced a singular coincidence of cir- cumstances between this event and his recall from MR. MONROE. 481 Paris in 1796; with this difference, that he now had to enter the lists with his friend Jefferson, instead of the federalists. He returned to Ame- rica in 1807, and immediately published a letter in defence of the treaty which he and Mr. Pinck- ney had signed, and in justification of their con- duct. In doing this, he, of course, called in. question the propriety of Mr. Jefferson's refusal to ratify it; inconsequence of which, no great cordiality for a time existed between these gentle- men. When this treaty was rejected by Mr. Jeffer- son, and that by no means in the most respectful manner, the British people expressed very lit- tle displeasure at the circumstance; nor did they call in question the right of the President to re- fuse the ratification of what his ministers had signed ; but no sooner does a similar event take place in this country, by the rejection of Mr. Erskine's treaty, than the Americans (the repub- lican party at least) are all up in arms against us, and deny our Government the very privilege which they claim for their President. Mr. Jef- ferson complained that the whole of his instruc- tions had not been complied with, and that he could not obtain all the advantages he wanted : whereas our ministers assert, that Mr. Erskine went beyond his instructions, and conceded more than he was authorized. Upon what grounds, VOL. II. 2 I \ 482 MR. MONROE. therefore, can the Americans claim the right of rejecting an incomplete treaty, and deny us the same right of rejecting one that is unauthorized? On perusing the instructions forwarded by Mr. Canning, in his letter to Mr. Erskine, of the O 7 ' 23d of January 18(K) 5 the propositions that are to be made to the American Government relate only to three points : First, That the American Government, in the event of His Majesty's consenting to withdraw the orders in council of January and November 1807, is prepared to withdraw contemporaneously on its part, the interdiction of its harbours to ships of war, and all non-intercourse and non-importation acts, so far as respects Great Britain; leaving them in force with respect to France, and the powers which adopt or act under her decrees : Secondly, That America is willing to renounce, during the present war, the pretension of carrying on in time of war all trade with the enemy's colonies, from which she was excluded during peace : Thirdly, That Great Britain, for the purpose of securing the operation of the embargo act, with respect to France and the powers acting un- der her decrees, shall be at liberty to capture all American vessels that 'may be found attempting to trade with the ports of any of these powers ; without which security, the raising the embargo, MR. MONROE. -483 norninaljy, to Great Britain alone, would in fact raise it to all the world. " On these conditions," says Mr. Canning, "His Majesty will consent to withdraw the orders in council of January and November 1807 } so far as respects America; and upon receiving through you (Mr. Erskine) a distinct and official recogni- tion of the three abovementioned conditions on the part of the American Government, His Ma- jesty will lose no time in sending to America a minister fully empowered to consign them to a formal and regular treaty.*' Such, and such only, are the points touched upon by Mr. Canning, nor is there one ivord in the whole dispatch that authorizes, or even hints at, an adjustment of the Chesapeake affair ; which it was, no doubt, the intention of His Majesty's ministers to leave to the care of the minister whom they intended to appoint with full powers to settle all disputes. But what are the proceed- ings of Mr. Erskine on the receipt of this di- spatch ? He immediately writes to Mr. Smith, the secretary of state, a letter that seems to have been dictated by a very different dispatch to that of the 23d of January 1809, which has been published in this country for the purpose of showing the authority upon which he acted. In that letter, dated the 17th of April following, Mr. Erskine does not say a word respecting the 2 i 2 484 MR. MONROE. three conditions upon which the orders of council will be withdrawn; but without any authority (unless he acted from instructions which have not yet been made known to the public) he offers, in the name of His Majesty, " honourable reparation for the aggression committed by a British naval officer in the attack of the United States frigate, Chesapeake ;" and further says, that in consequence of Congress having passed the non-intercourse act y His Majesty is "willing to restore the men forcibly taken out of the Chesapeake, and if acceptable to the American Government to make a suitable pro- vision for the unfortunate sufferers on that occa- sion r Such is the substance of Mr. Erskine's first communication to the American Government after the receipt of Mr. Canning's letter, though the latter does not mention a word about the Chesa- peake; and surely Mr. Erskine made a very ex- traordinary proposition, when he offered to restore the men who had been forcibly taken out of that frigate, for the whole four had been tried at Hali- fax, arid proved to be British seamen. One of them was hung, and the rest were sentenced to re- ceive Jiv e hundred lashes each. Now after such a proceeding as this, to make such an offer as Mr. Erskine did, (and 1 cannot believe that he did it without authority,) was in fact to surrender up the right of power over our own seamen. It MR. MONROE. 485 was surely sufficient that we disclaimed the pri- vilege of searching ships of war belonging to a neutral, because in so doing we trusted to the honour of that power, whose flag it is supposed would not be a refuge for deserters. But when a nation so far forgets itself as to receive such people on board its ships, and refuses to deliver them up at the request of the power to whom they belong, such/nation places itself in a state of hostility with the offended party, and must take the conse- quence. America did this; her frigate was at- tacked, and we recovered our seamen ; but be- cause our Government disclaims the precipitate conduct of their officer, are they to deliver up their own subjects, who were afterwards delibe- rately tried by a court-martial at Halifax and punished ? If they had been American citizens, they ought to have been given up long ago, and a suitable recompense made to the sufferers. Their surrender should not have been the subject of a stipulated condition; the act should have been voluntary, and it would then have afforded a. proof of our inclination to make "atonement for the insult and aggression" of which we had been guilty. But as they have been proved to be British seamen and British citizens, what right has our Government to deliver them up to the Americans ? Is it because we have derived such important benefits from the non-intercourse act ; 486 MR. MONROE. an act which has deprived our merchants of seve- ral millions of exports; which has closed the doot to our manufactures; and which possesses no other advantage, but the negative one of placing the enemy upon the same footing as ourselves in re- lation to the United States ? In making such an ignominious proposition, either Mr. Erskine must have acted without authority, or, if he had au^ thority, His Majesty's ministers could not have been aware of the important points which they were about to concede. Surely our cabinet, councils must have been in a very distracted state, when ministers offered to restore the British seamen taken from the Chesapeake frigate, after trying them by a court-martial, hanging one man, and flogging the rest 1 ! In reply to Mr. Erskine's letter of the 17th of April, Mr. Smith, the American secretary of state, in a note of the same day, after repeating our ambassador's words, and dwelling, with much apparent satisfaction, upon "the atonement which His Britannic Majesty is ready to make for the insult and aggression committed upon the United States' frigate," says, " But I have it in express charge from the President to state; while he for- bears to insist on a further punishment of the offending officer, he is not the less sensible of the justice and utility of such an example; nor the less persuaded that it would best comport with MR. MONROE. 487 what is due from His Britannic Majesty, to his own honour." How any minister could receive, officially, such an insulting note, I am really astonished. It evidently dictates to His Majesty that he ought to do more than he has done, though in Mr. Ers- kine's note His Majesty is made to express his sorrow and displeasure at the event; and as a proof of which, he recalled the offending officer from a highly important and honourable command ; and offers to restore the seamen, and make a suit- able provision for the sufferers. But Mr. Madi- son, or at least his secretary, does not consider the offer of our ministers as sufficiently humiliat- ing; and therefore, though he forbears to insist, yet nevertheless he is of opinion that His Majesty will not consult his own honour, unless he punishes the offending officer in a more exemplary manner. Hence, if our ministers had countenanced Mr. Erskine's proceedings, and the treaty had been ratified, our Government would have been placed in an awkward dilemma. They would have been under the necessity of either punishing Admiral Berkeley, agreeably to the wishes of Mr. Madison, or have suffered a severe stigma to remain upon the honour of His Majesty. Such an insulting, dictating spirit was never displayed towards us even in Mr. Jefferson's administration ; but new ministers must produce some novelty in their pro- 488 MR. MONROE. ceedings, and Mr. Smith, perhaps, conceived it necessary to display his spirit and talents at the commencement of his diplomatic career in the most popular style, as Cobbett's friend Bradford would have said. I even think I hear the repub- lican party extolling his letter to the skies, and pointing out the spirited passages which they conceive will bend the proud neck of John Bull. Yet after all they are justified in making us sub- mit to their terms, if they find we are ready to cringe to them ; and if, to prevent America from joining France, we are willing to salute the der- rittre of their President, or even his secretary of state, we deserve the fate of the member of par- liament, who, to gain the vote of a chimney, sweeper, made a low bow and kissed his sooty hand. " I shall give my vote to the other can- didate," says the sweep ; " for any member of parliament that will condescend to kiss my hand, will not scruple to kiss the minister's **^*." Every sacrifice short of national degradation ought, however, to be made in order to preserve the friendship of America. No paltry etiquette or punctilio should for a moment obstruct the path of negotiation; and national prejudice, which I must confess is already too strong against the people of the United States, should if possible be buried in oblivion ; at all events, our negotiators ought not tq have v the least tincture of it, A EXPORTS AND IMPORTS. 489 treaty of amity and commerce might then perhaps be arranged upon fair and honourable grounds, without an insolent dictation on the one part, or a degrading subserviency on the other. THE commerce of the United States, previous to the embargo, was in the most flourishing state, notwithstanding the depredations said to have been committed upon it by the belligerent powers of Europe, as will appear from the following official documents, laid before the House of Representa- tives on the 29th February, 1808, by Albert Gall at in, Secretary of the Treasury. " Exports of the United States, from 1st October 1806 to 1st October ISOf." The goods, wares, and merchan- dize of domestic ,growth, or manufacture . . . Dots. 48,699,692 Do. of foreign growth or manu- facture .... 59,643,558 Total Dols. 1 08,343, 15p EXPORTS AND IMPORTS. Recapitulation of the above. The foreign goods are classed as follows : 1st. Articles free of duty by law 2,080,114 2d. Do. liable to duty, and on re-exportation entitled to draw- back .... 48,205,94^ 3d. Do. liable to duty, but no drawback on re-exportation 9,357,501 Dots. 59,6*4:3,558 N. B. The duties collected on the 3d class are derived directly from the carrying trade, and amount to Dols. 1,393,877. The articles of domestic growth or manufacture o are arranged as follows : 1st. Produce of the sea . . 2,804,000 2d. Do. of the forest . . . 5,476,000 3d. Do. of agriculture . . 37,832,000 4th. Do. of manufactures . . 2,409,000 5th. Do. uncertain . . . 179,000 Dols. 48,700,000 The following is a statement of the duties paid upon imports into the principal sea-port towns of the United States, calculated upon an average of four years, ending March 1805. Toivns. States. Dollars. New York, New York 12,862 ; 02O Philadelphia, Pennsylvania DUTIES ON IMPORTS. 491 Towns. Boston, Baltimore, Charleston, Norfolk, Salem, Savannah, Providence, Portland, Newhaven, Wilmington, States. Massachusetts Maryland South Carolina Virginia Massachusetts Georgia Rhode Island Maine Connecticut North Carolina Dollars. 6,408,400 3,03 1,639 1,761,673 1,034,498 914,039 781,556 545,265 510,637 319,110 Mr. Key, in his very able and masterly speech against the continuance of the embargo, stated, that of the exports of domestic produce of the United States, in 1807, amounting to 48,699,592 dollars, only 9,762,204 were exported to Euro- pean ports under the controul of France, which had been since interdicted by the British orders in council ; and that there consequently remained a surplus of 38,937,388 dollars of American pro. duce which might yet be exported, if the embar- go had not taken place : but war might have hap- pened between France and America, a measure which Mr, Jefferson and his party wished to avoid. (ECONOMY OF THE GOVERNMENT. The following list of salaries will clearly ex- hibit the economical system of government in the United States : Dollar*. The President, per annum . . 25,OOO Vice President . . . . 10,000 Secretary of State . . . 5,OOO Secretary of the Treasury . . 5,OOO Secretary of the War Department 4,500 Secretary of the Navy . . 4,50O Comptroller of the Treasury . 3,500 Treasurer .... 3,000 Attorney General , . . 3,OOO Auditor of the Treasury . . 3,OOO Postmaster-General . . , 3,OOO Register of the Treasury . . 2,40O Accountant of the War Department 2,OOO Do. of the Navy Department . 2,000 Assistant Postmaster-General . 1*700 Names of the separate States of the federal re- public. C Vermont New Hampshire New England, | District of Maine, belong- or ing to Massachusetts Northern States. I Massachussett$ I Rhode Island ^Connecticut STATE OF THE FEDERAL REPUBLIC Middle States. "New York New Jersey Pennyslvania - Delaware I Ohio Michigan ^Indiana territory f Maryland Virginia I Kentucky Southern States. ^ ort Carolina south Carolina Georgia Tennessee ^Mississippi territory Colony acquired by 1 T purchase / Louisiana 492 (ECONOMY OF THE GOVERNMENT. The following list of salaries will clearly ex- hibit the economical system of government in the United States : Dollars. The President, per annum . . 25,OOO Vice President . . ~ . . 10,OOO Secretary of State . . 5,000 Secretary of the Treasury . . 5,OOO Secretary of the War Department 4,500 Secretary of the Navy . . 4,500 Comptroller of the Treasury . 3,500 Treasurer .... 3,000 Attorney General , . . 3,OOO Auditor of the Treasury . . 3,000 Postmaster-General . . , 3,000 Register of the Treasury . . 2,40O Accountant of the War Department 2,OOO Do. of the Navy Department . 2,000 Assistant Postmaster-General . 1>70O - ' Names of the separate States of the federal re- public. f Vermont New Hampshire New England, | District of Maine, belong. or ing to Massachusetts Northern States. I Massachusetts I Rhode Island ^Connecticut STATE OF THE FEDERAL REPUBLIC. 43 New York New Jersey Pennyslvania Middle States. <{ Delaware I Ohio Michigan l_ Indiana territory / f Maryland Virginia I Kentucky Southern States. J ^J 1 arolina south Carolina Georgia Tennessee Mississippi territory Colony acquired by ") T purchase Louisiana General Statistical View of the United Stales for a. Period of 20 Years. Collected chiefly from Official Documents. Enuineratiun. Number or Value in 1788. Number ur Value ill 1808. Increase in twenty Years. Num. of States in the Union 13 21 8 Square acres - 283,800,000 600,000,000 316,200,000 Acres of land in cultivation - 1,210,500 12,390,400 11,179,000 Average price of land, per ) acre - - -j 2 dollars 6 dollars 4 dollars *: f Whites and free peo- ? ~ j pie of colour - - 2,500,000 5,430,000 2,930,000 eL ^Slaves 700,000 1,070,000 570,000 Pu (Total population - 3,200,000 6,500,000 3,200,000 Effective militia 450*000 9/>0.000 480,000 Regular army - 2,000 2,OOO ( 10 frigates } Naval force ... -} 81 sloops & V 91 vessels gunboats. ) Dwelling-houses 640,000 1,225,000 585000 Horses 600,000 1,200,000 600,000 Horned cattle 1,200,000 2,950,000 1,750,000 Post-offices - 400 1848 1448 Revenues of general do. 12,000/. 68,850/. 56,850f. Expenses of do. 11, COO/. 58,5004. 47,~007. Newspapers - 80 350 k'70 The post extends in miles - 5,000 53,000 28,000 Tonnage of merchant ves-'"l sels -/ 250,000 1,207,000 957,000 Value of imports in sterling - 2,475,0007. 22,000,0007. 19,525,0007. Exports ("Domestic pro. - 2,025,000*. 10,957,4087. 8,932,4087. In Sterling<( Foreign goods - 225,0007. 13,410,8007 13,194,bC07. Money. IJTotal 2,250,0007 24,377,2087 22, 127, 2087. Annual revenue 1,8()0,000/. 4,000.0007 2,200.0^07. Specie in circulation - 2,250,000/,. 3,800,000/ 1,550,0007, National debt - - - 16,500,0007. 15,238,7007 Decrease * ) ;, 261 ,3007. / * Since the war with Britain, however, in 1812-13, the debt has in- cieased to move than 20 millions. &.EAVE BOSTON. CHAPTER XLII. Leave Boston Crowded Stage Concord Keen6 Walpole Newspapers Diffusion of Know- ledge and Information among the Country Peo- ple Leave New Hampshire Enter Vermont Origin of its Name Stupendous Mountains Particulars respecting Vermont Arrive at Rutland Indisposition there Canadian Mer- chant Quaint Phrases and Expressions of the Americans An American Language Chris- tian Names r Arrive at Middle bury Fergennes Bad Roads through the Forests A remark- able Thief- Arrival at Burlington Account of that Town Meet David Continue my Journey to St. Albans Cross the Lake Chois Potash Manufactory Journey from thence to La Prai- rie Arrive at Montreal. ON Friday, 29th April, I left Boston about four o'clock in the morning. I had taken a place the preceding day in the Burlington stage, on my return to Canada. When I put my name down at the coach-office, there were not three places taken; but when the stage called for me at Lam- phear's hotel the next morning, it was literally CROWDED STAGE. crowded to an overflow. At the utmost the stage should hold no more than twelve persons, includ- ing the driver, and is then considered too crowd- ed; but this morning there were upwards of six- teen persons jammed together in the most un- comfortable manner, sitting four on a seat, or leaning back in each other's lap. There are no outside passengers to the American stages ; it may therefore be easily conceived how agreeably six- teen people were huddled together in the inside. I found it useless to remonstrate with the driver at such a flagrant imposition upon the public; for unless I chose to crowd in among the rest, I should have been under the necessity of waiting four days longer, and perhaps with as little chance of being better accommodated. I was therefore obliged to take up with a small portion of the seat on which the driver and two others sat in front, and even that was an enviable birth to those behind. The coach was also crowded with bag- gage, and it was with difficulty 1 could find room for my portmanteau. I must do the driver the justice to say, that it was the proprietor's and not his fault ; and that he did not (as is sometimes the case with the gemmen of the whip, even in England ) increase the unpleasantness of our situation by insolent or abusive language : on the contrary, he was very civil and good-humoured, and strove to quiet our CONCORD. WALPOLE. complaints by assuring us that he should set some of his passengers down, after we had gone a few miles. We passed over West Boston bridge, through the town of Cambridge, and stopped to breakfast at Concord, a small village, celebrated as the scene of the commencement of hostilities between Great Britain and her colonies in 177^- We dined at Groton ; and arrived about dusk at the town of Keene, forty-five miles from Boston, where we slept. In the course of the day we had relieved ourselves of four of our fellow travellers, but the number left was still sufficient to be in- commodious in a long journey. The next morning, by break of day, we pro- ceeded on our route, and arrived at Wai pole to breakfast. The country we had passed over this morning and the preceding day, was partly in Massachussetts and New Hampshire. It was in general well cultivated, and consisted of lofty hills and fertile valleys. The towns and villages, though of inconsiderable size, consisted of neat and well built houses, and displayed much of the characteristic cleanliness of the New England States. Walpole is situated on the Connecticut river, which divides the States of New Hampshire and Vermont. The long stages throughout the United States always carry the mail ; and it was entertaining to vol.. Ji, 2 K 498 NEWSPAPERS. see the eagerness of the people on our arrival, te get a sight of the last newspaper from Boston* They flocked to the post-office and the inn, and formed a variety of groups round those who were fortunate enough to possess themselves of a paper. There they stood, with open mouth, swallow* ing " the lies of the day? which would be as readily contradicted on the morrow. Opposite the inn at Walpole there is a printing office, from which a newspaper issues once a week* The press was then at work, and the devils busily em- ployed in fabricating accounts which, in a fevy hours after our departure, no doubt set all the town together by the ears. In America all are politicians, and every man a federalist or a democrat. The eagerness of the people for news, far surpasses even that of our country. Newspapers are not charged with any duty, and seldom cost more than 2d. or 3d. sterling, and about a halfpenny more for the car- riage. Hence these vehicles of intelligence and information are accessible to every class of people in the States ; and there is scarcely a poor owner of a miserable log hut, who lives on the border of the stage road, but has a newspaper left at his door. Each man takes in a paper that agrees with his politics, or rather directs them ; but those who are remotely situated from a town where they are EFFECTS OF NEWSPAPERS. 499 published, must depend upon the politics of 'the coachman, for such a paper as he chooses to bring them. One of the drivers during my journey happened to be a federalist} and afforded me con- siderable mirth in this respect. No sooner did he blow his horn than up scampered men, wo- men, and children to the coach, eagerly begging for their favourite paper. If they wanted a demo- cratic one, they must either take & federalist, or go without. He had a few of the others with him, but he never would deliver them if he could avoid it, I am of opinion that this general circulation of newspapers throughout America tends very much to the instruction of the country people, and di- vests them of that air of ignorance and rusticity which characterizes the greater part of the pea- santry in Europe. The knowledge acquired by newspapers may be superficial, but it gives men a general acquaintance with the world. It sets before them the actions of their countrymen, and the government under which they live ; it renders them familiar with the transactions of foreign nations ; and though confined to a small spot themselves, yet at one view they become ac- quainted with every section of the globe. With- out a knowledge of what is passing in the world, man may be said to be an isolated being ; but with a newspaper before him, he mixes with so- 500 EXPENSES OF TRAVELLING. ciety, hears the opinions of others, and may com- municate his sentiments upon men and things to all parts of the world. This general information among the country people of the United States tends to remove that air of honest ignorant rusticity, which distinguishes the peasantry of Europe ; and hence they often appear to have the knowledge and cunning of the town, with little of its polish. It is this, too, which may have led strangers to consider the Americans as artful and impertinent people, compared with the European peasantry. The humble simplicity of the latter won their affection, while the knowledge and confidence of the former occasioned offence ; or, if they expe- rienced politeness, it was looked upon as the civility of knaves willing to overreach them. Whatever inconveniences, however, may be felt tram this diffusion of knowledge among the lower classes, by those who have been accustomed to homage and submission from their inferiors, yet a nation whose peasantry is thus instructed and enlightened must, I should think, feel the bene- fit of it, and possess advantages which others, whose people are whelmed in ignorance and su- perstition, can never enjoy. The expense of travelling by the stage in the Northern and Middle States is not quite 3-^d. sterling per mile ; but in the Southern States it VERMONT. 501 is upwards of 6d. The taverns also to the north- ward seldom charge more than a quarter dollar for each meal, and the same for a bed ; but to the southward it is double, and frequently triple that sum. On leaving Walpole we crossed the Connecticu river, and entered the state of Vermont over a tolerably good bridge, near which is a pretty ro- mantic fall or cascade. The river is of inconsi- derable breadth in this part of the country, though it rises in Canada upwards of 120 miles above Walpole, and divides the states of Vermont and New Hampshire. For several miles we rode along a tolerably level country, but by the time we halted to dine we were surrounded by enormous mountains. This state takes its name from the Green Mountains, and the people were originally distinguished by the title of Green Mountain Boys; but it at length became in their opinion a reproachful term, and they Frenchified the name of the State to Vermont^ and themselves to Fermontese. Perhaps they di- splayed their partiality to the French in the adop- tion of this name, for the majority of the inha- bitants are said to be of democratic principles. Democracy, however, is not the creed of French- men at this day; yet it is curious to see how very tenacious the jacobins and liberty-men of Europe and America are, even now, of every thing that is 502 TRADE OF VERMONT. French) and how they bow down to and worship that despotism which a few years ago they reviled and execrated. But instead of paying homage to a thousand tyrants, they now idolize only one! Vermont is generally a mountainous country,; but there are higher mountains in New Hamp- shire. The White mountains in particular are said to be above 7000 feet above the level of the sea. Their summits are continually covered with snow, from which they derive their appellation. ' ' No vernal blooms their torpid rocks array, But winter, lingering, chills the lap of May $ No zephyr fondly sues the mountain's breast, But meteors glare, and stormy glooms invest," Vermont is yet a new country, and before the, American war was but little settled, especially towards the northern parts of the state. Most of the towns towards Canada have been built within these twenty years, and almost entirely depend for their existence upon the trade with that coun- try. The southern part of Vermont trades chiefly with New York, Boston, Salem, and the principal New England ports. Their exports consist of pot- and pearl- ashes, salt pork, beef, and fish ; horses, oxen, wheat, and flour; oak, pine timber, staves, and other lumber ; butter, cheese, maple- sugar, &c. The principal articles which they re- ARRIVAL AT RUTLAND. 503 eeive from Canada are salt and specie, so that the balance of trade is greatly in their favour. This State was peopled chiefly by emigrants from Massachusetts and Connecticut; but the township in Orange County is said to be settled mostly by Scotch people. The Vermontese are generally a tall, rawboned people; they are as industrious and hard-working as any of the New England men, but are less polished in their man- ners than those of other States. They are keen traders, and are seldom outwitted in a bargain ; on the contrary, they have often displayed their dexterity as horse jockeys in Canada, and ex^ changed their weak arid rickety pacers for the hardy little Canadian horses. During this day's ride, I was for the most part the only passenger in the coach. The weather was fine, and I enjoyed my own cogitations with? out interruption, while the coach rolled along the edge of a stupendous mountain, or glided through a pleasant and fertile valley. Immense forests pre- sented themselves every where to the eye, cover- ing the whole of the highlands and mountains to their very summits. Below, the valleys were ge- nerally well cultivated ; but in many places the trees appeared to have been very lately cut down. We arrived in the evening at Rutland, one of the principal towns of Vermont, and alternately the seat of Government with Windsor. It con- 504 DEPARTURE FROM RUTLAND. tains upwards of 200 inhabitants, and consists of a single street of tolerable houses, built of wood, well painted, and in good condition. The stage not travelling in this State on Sundays, and it being Saturday evening when I arrived, I was obliged to remain at Rutland all the following day. The fatigue of travelling, almost night and day, over different roads in a mountainous coun- try, had made me extremely unwell, and it was fortunate that Sunday intervened, otherwise I should have been unable to proceed. At the inn where we stopped, I met with Mr. Swan, a merchant of Montreal, who was on his way to New York with bills of exchange, which were selling in that city at eight and ten per cent. above par, in consequence of the stagnation of trade. In Canada, bills were at a discount of five per cent, so that it may be easily perceived what a lucrative traffic that gentleman was engaged in : specie^ however, was prohibited by the embargo act from being sent out of the States ; but the law was continually evaded. Monday, 2d May, at three o'clock in the morn- ing, I departed from Rutland in the stage, in company with an old lady who was going upon a visit to St. Alban's, a considerable distance be- yond Burlington. We were the only passengers ; and as my fellow traveller had nothing very fas- cinating, either in her manners or appearance, ftUAINT PHRASES AND EXPRESSIONS. 505 we exchanged but few words together. She carried her provision with her in a bag, and at every place where we alighted to meals, she left me to do the honours of the table by myself; but she never failed, previous to getting into the coach again, to light a short pipe, and smoke it out on the road, continually annoying me with her disagreeable whiffs. Not having entirely recovered from my indis- position the preceding day, and the road becom- ing worse every mile we went, my looks were by no means in my favour, and the old lady s>aid to me, " Ant you a man that is not in good health ?" Though my spirits were extremely low, yet I could scarcely refrain from laughing at the quaint- ness of her question : however, I smoothed my countenance into gravity, and told her that I had lately been much fatigued by travelling. 1 found in several instances that the country- people of Vermont, and other New England States, make use of many curious phrases and quaint expressions in their conversation, which are rendered more remarkable by a sort of nasal twang which they have in speaking. Every thing that creates surprise is awful with them ; " what an awful \\rnd \ awful hole! awful hill! awful mouth! awful nose ! &c. ; arid instead of imagin- ing, supposing, or believing, as we do, they al- ways guess at every thing; "I guess as how, AN AMERICAN LANGUAGE. Jonathan, it's not so could as y easier day >" " Why I guess, Nathan, that the wind has changed." A variety of other quaint expressions are equally common, and have become favourite phrases, not Only among the country people, but even among many of the American writers. " The crops are progressing," says Nathan, " though I calculate as how this is a propitious weedy soil." " Has the embargo act progressed in Congress?" "Which have you reference to?" says Jonathan, " for there are four or five of them/' " Oh, the last sup- plementary," replies Nathan. " It will soon come plump upon us," returns the other; " It's tarna- tion provoking that we can't swop goods with the Canadians ; what the devil has England or France to do with Lake Champlain ? they don't search our vessels and take our seamen there." " It's a nation shame, to be sure/' replies Nathan, " but I'm determined to ivaggon my ashes along a by- path over the Line, and bring back some genu-ine dollars from Canada. It's a lengthy way for sar- tain, but I guess I shall soon be on the opposite side of the Line, in spite of their ograb-me laws." Colloquial barbarisms like the above, among the peasantry of a country, are excusable ; but when they are used in composition by writers, they become disgusting. I could collect hun- dreds of others equally absurd, which have beea invented by Americans who are desirous of intro CHRISTIAN NAME% 50^ ducing what they call an American language; but unless they resort to the Catabaw, Chactaw, or Kickapoo dialects, I am sure they will never atf- complish it by murdering the English tongue. The Americans, particularly in the New En- gland States, formerly christened their children after the old formal names in vogue a few cen- " tunes ago : thus a stranger is every where coming in contact with an Obadiah, zuEbenezer, a Nathan, a Jonathan, an Ezekiel, a Margery, a Deborah, a Susannah, a Dorothy, &c. Of late years, how- ever, the rage for fine poetical names has found its way among the Americans, as it has with us, and the puritanical appellations of their ancestors are gradually falling into disrepute. The revolu- tionary war has also had as much influence upon the names as upon the manners of the people ; and the catalogues of Grecian and Roman heroes have been ransacked to find an appropriate title for the young Hesperian. Even a great portion of their lands have been honoured with the names of Homer, Virgil, Demosthenes, Cicero, Plato, Cato, Cincinnatus, Julius Caesar, Pompey, Pliny, Livy, Sallust, &c. The young ladies now receive their names mostly from novels and romances ; and Laura Marias, Anna Marias, Adelaides, Emi- lies, &c. have jumped over the heads of the poor neglected Barbaras, Deborahs, Mollies, Betties, and Follies. In one of the New York papers of SOS BAD ROADS. April 1 80O, the following marriage was announced ; it will serve to show that a multiplicity of poetico- novel names are not confined to the fashionables of Europe: "Married at Washington, Virginia, Mr. George Hudson, to Miss Seraphina-Maria- Carolina- Matilda- Juliana- Sophia- An n Mansfield!" We arrived at Middlebury to dinner. This town is situated in the vicinity of a waterfall, on which are erected several saw-mills, where much timber is sawed into planks for the use of the in- terior. There are two meeting-houses in Middle- bury; one of them with a spire is the handsomest in Vermont; but it was not quite finished. There is also a college, or rather grammar-school, for the use of the surrounding country. From Middlebury we proceeded along an in- different road, and thinly settled country, to Ver- gennes, which is dignified with the title of city, though inferior in size and population to several other towns in the State. It is situated near a fall, upon which saw-mills, flour-mills, and ma- nufactories for wool-cards are erected. It has a court-house, and two or three places of worship, and was settled about 17/O. We set out from Vergennes the next morning at three o'clock for Burlington, a distance of only twenty- two miles ; yet the road was so very rough, that we did not arrive in that town till noon. The country in several places was tole- A REMARKABLE TKIEF. 509 rably well settled and cultivated, but for the most part the road lay through woods, where it re- quired all the skill and dexterity of the driver to avoid deep ruts, huge stones, logs of wood, felled timber, and stumps of trees. The road was very narrow, and these obstructions continually obliged us to run in a serpentine direction. Fortunately our driver on this road had acquired, from con- stant practice, considerable dexterity ; and he drove us through the narrow windings of the forest in a style that would not have disgraced any of our fashionable "mail coachmen." A few miles before we arrived at Burlington; we passed a respectable brick- house and well-cul- tivated farm by the road-side. Our driver in* formed us that they belonged to Mr. 11 , a remarkable character, who, notwithstanding he is a man of great property, yet has such a propensity for thieving that he can never see a thing; without o o endeavouring to purloin it. He was detected but a short time back in driving to Ins own field a yoke of oxen, the property of a neighbouring farmer, for which prank he had to pay one or two thousand dollars, to escape punishment; and since then, a cobler surprised him in the act of pilfering his awl and wax end.! Thus, even; the most insignificant articles cannot escape his fingers. From the propensity which he evinces to thieve on all occasions, that vice seems to be 51O ARRIVAL AT BURLINGTON. congenial with his nature ; and is as completely a disease of the mind as insanity. The petty thefts which he has committed are innumerable: but the sums that he has paid to escape punish- ment, or as fines for his offences, are, I am told, of greater amount than the articles he has stolen. He is considered a wealthy farmer; and the house in which he lives being superior to the generality of buildings along that road, it serves to make his singular character publicly known ; for the wag- goners and stage coachmen never pass it without acquainting travellers with the strange propensity of its owner. Soon after we passed the house, he was pointed out to me on horseback, talking to a countryman. He appeared to be between forty and fifty years of age. His countenance did not seem to indicate dishonesty; but I do not profess to have the penetration of Lavater. He is, in consequence of his vicious conduct, deprived of his right of voting at elections; and is gene- rally shunned throughout the county in which he resides. We got into Burlington about noon. This town is 21O miles from Boston, and is built on a sandy height or bluff, rising gradually at the exr tremity of a very fine bay on Lake Champlain. About thirty years ago the place was covered with firs and pine-trees ; only one miserable log hut stood in the midst of the forest, upon the site BURLINGTON. 511 tof this now flourishing town. The principal houses are of red brick, and form a spacious square, con- sisting of private houses, shops, taverns, a print- ing-office, and court-house. The ground floor of the latter building also serves for a place of worship; and an upper apartment for a Free- masons' lodge ! The best college in Vermont is in the vicinity of this town, and contains about seventy students. The number of inhabitants in Burlington is computed at 2,500. A new street is in contemplation, to communicate from the college to the town, to open into the square: at present the individuals who possess a part of the land required for this improvement, oppose the measure, and obstruct the wishes of the inhabi- tants. Burlington is of growing importance, in conse- quence of the lucrative trade with Canada, and its excellent situation for that purpose, being scarcely seventy miles from St. John's. Sloops of 100 and 150 tons can navigate the lake with ease; and a free communication was constantly kept up between Burlington and St. John's pro- vious to the embargo. The vessels were all Ame- rican, so that a double advantage was derived from the trade with Canada. The inhabitants, therefore, justly deprecate a war with England; which, as they declared in their memorial for a 512 MEET DAVID. repeal of the embargo, as it related to them, " would make them poor indeed." I expected to have found a sloop at this place, that would at least have carried me to the boun- dary line ; but the supplementary act had so completely cut off all communication between the two countries by water, that on my arrival there was neither sloop nor boat in the harbour. After dinner, 1 went "down to the water-side to learn if it were possible to procure a canoe to take me to the Line; and as I was walking along the beach, who should I meet butDavid, the mate of the sloop which had taken us from St. John's to Skenesborough six months before ! David was glad to meet me, and we shook hands cordially together. I asked him how Robert and he got off with the old Dolphin after we left them. " The ice broke up," said David, " a few days after our arrival, and we got the sloop up to the town, where we took out the potash and butter : but she was such an awful crazy hulk, that Robert and I did not like to trust ourselves in her a second time, especially in such an awful season of the year; so we left her to rot at Skenesborough, and returned home by land." "You have, no doubt/ 1 said I, " cleared a few dollars by the speculation ?" " Rot the old Dolphin," returned David, " we have lost a nation sight of money by her," David JOURNEY TO ST. ALBAN*S. 513 would willingly have taken me to the Line in a canoe, but he could not procure one any where. I therefore returned to the tavern, and took a place in the stage waggon, that was going with the British mail to Swanton Falls, about fifty miles from Burlington. At that place the mail is delivered to the Canadian courier, who comes from St. John's part of the way in a canoe, and the rest on foot or horseback, as the path through the woods permits. The communication between Canada and the United States, on the Vermont side of the lake, is yet very difficult. No regular road has been, o'pened capable of admitting waggons or carts of any description. A few solitary settlers only have scattered their log huts in different parts of the forest bordering on the Line; but that part of the country is still a dreary and uncomfortable wilderness. The stage, when I travelled, proceeded no fur- ther than Burlington ; since then a new one has been built, which carries the mail and passengers upwards of 4O miles beyond that town. 1 was, therefore, under the necessity of seating myself once more in a stage waggon, of the same kind as that in which I travelled from Skenesborough to Troy. It was a mere cart, with four wheels, containing a couple of chairs for the accommoda- tion of passengers ; and unfortunately there hap- VOL. II. 2 L $14 JOURNEY TO ST. pened to be three besides myself. Two of them were females, viz. the old lady who had dry- smoked me all the way from Rutland, and the lady of a Col. Sawyer, who keeps a tavern at Mil- ford, about sixteen miles from Burlington: the other passenger was an old Scotchman, a mason by trade, who had formerly been in the British army during the American war, and had remained in the country. The day was uncommonly hot; and having nothing to shade me from the sun, I was half roasted, and covered with dust ; added to which, I had a most uncomfortable seat in the hind part of the waggon upon the mail bag, and other goods. I might indeed have sat in front along with the driver, but my legs would have been cramped between a large chest and the fore part of the waggon. Of two evils, I chose the least : but I shall never forget the shaking, jolting, jumbling, and tossing, which I experienced over this disagreeable road, up and down steep hills, which obliged us to alight (for we had only two poor jaded horses to drag us) and fag through the sand and dust, exposed to a burning sun. When we got into our delectable vehicle again, our si- tuation was just as bad ; for the road in many- parts was continually obstructed by large stones, stumps of trees, and fallen timber; deep ruts and hples, over which, to use an American phrase, we DECAYED BRIDGES, 51 5 were waggorfd most unmercifully. And even now, while I am writing upon this subject, I al- most fancy That every bone is aching After the shaking I had that day over ruts and ridges, And bridges Made of a few uneasy planks." In the early part of the afternoon, the sun shone full upon us ; but as it declined, the trees in the forest intercepted its scorching rays, and relieved me from a violent head-ache, occasioned by the sun, and my wearing a black hat. Light beaver or straw hats are the most proper for an American spring and summer. Black attracts the heat more powerfully, and retains it for a longer time. We were often obliged to pass over bridges actually condemned by the select men at different places, who had put up notices, that they would not be answerable for the necks of those who were hardy enough to venture across ; yet these sapient folks had not provided any other route for travel- lers. This was absolutely the case about a mile or two beyond Burlington. The usual bridge over Onion river had been carried away by the ice, and there was no other way of crossing but by an old bridge, condemned several years ago, 2L2 516 AMERICAN (ECONOMY. which stood over a precipice seventy feet deep* It was upwards of four weeks since the other had been destroyed; yet so tardy were the inhabitants, even though their own safety was in question, that no preparations had been made for re-build- ing it. We got out when we came up with it, and sent the waggon over before us ; it even shook with the weight of a single person, and whoever is on it when it falls must inevitably be dashed to pieces. Many bridges that we passed over in several other parts of Vermont were in the same dilapidated state ; their very planks started up in our faces, as if to reproach us with treading on them. The bad roads and bridges in these parts, I anx told, would soon be repaired, if the republican or democratic party did not oppose the turnpike system, which is certainly the only method of remedying the grievance at present so much com* plained of. It is astonishing also, that with th example of the neighbouring States before them, they still continue so blind to the advantages that are to be derived to their State from facility of communication with distant parts. But, like their brother legislators in Georgia, economy is their foible. They conceive that the sovereign people ought not to be taxed, even for their own benefit. They would rather that his hydra-headed majesty MILTON. 517 should break one of his many necks, than that they should lose their popularity as economists. I slept this night at Milton, fourteen miles from Burlington. The inn is kept by Colonel Sawyer, who came up and handed his wife out of our elegant carriage. The Colonel is a disciple of Washington, and belonged to the continental army, which was composed of the best troops that the States possessed during the war. He had his certificate from the Society of the Cincin- nati hanging up in his room, framed and glazed. It was signed by Washington, and I looked at the hand- writing of that great and excellent man with as much interest as I would have viewed the most precious relic. The Colonel is a pleasant, sensible man, has a large family, and lives happy and contented, though born to better prospects than the keeper of a tavern. But losses have obliged him to move in his present humble sphere. One of his sons was at Burlington college, finish- ing his education; and two fine boys, whom he had at home, he also intended to send there, if his circumstances permitted. The village of Mil- ton consists only of the inn, and a few straggling farms. Early the next morning we departed from thence, and were somewhat lighter than the pre- ceding day ; but our cattle were so miserably poor that it was with difficulty we could get along. 518 GEORGIA. RELIGIOUS DISPUTE. My old smoking fellow-traveller was more loqua- cious this day than usual, and the conversation being upon religion, I found she was a staunch Universalist. Along this road there was little to see but thick woods, or half cleared grounds. The country be- came more level, but the road improved very little. We passed through the town of Georgia, which is, however, nothing more than a village consisting of straggling houses. It contains a very good meeting-house, with a spire resembling those which I have before mentioned. It was erected by an English builder who is settled among them, and become one of their captains of militia. The Baptists and Congregational sts are at log- gerheads about the right of possessing this meet- ing-house. Both parties joined in the expense of building it, and agreed that their respective ministers should preach to the whole congrega- tion, alternately, every Sunday. Matters had not long gone on in this friendly manner, when it was found that the Baptists wished to convert the Congregationalists to their faith, and to remove the minister of the latter from his office, by esta- blishing their own as constant preacher. This encroachment was spiritedly resisted by the Con-, gregationalists, who being the strongest party, were determined not to submit. Upon this, the ARRIVAL AT ST. ALBAtt's. 519 Baptists and their minister left the meeting, and wrote to the constituted authorities to settle the dispute, by compelling the Congregationalists to give their place of worship up to them. Their differences were not yet settled ; but it was gene- rally thought that the Congregationalists, being the most numerous, would obtain a victory over their opponents. Georgia is therefore likely to follow the example of Marlborough in Massa- chussetts, and erect two meeting-houses instead of one. About one o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at St. Alban's, thirty-five miles from Burlington. It contains several houses, mostly stores, taverns, and lawyers' offices. The smallest town or vil- lage is never without the latter. A newspaper called the " St. Alban's Adviser" is printed here once a week, and serves to illuminate the minds of the people throughout this part of the country, who would otherwise remain in complete igno- rance of the affairs of their own country and the world, secluded as they are in miserable log huts, and environed by forests of lofty pines. The mail was going on to Swanton Falls, and I might have continued my journey with it, and travelled with the Canadian courier to St. John's; but having two heavy portmanteaus, I thought they would be an incumbrance to me if obliged $&s I was told) IQ walk for several miles through 52O AMERICAN PREJUDICES. a narrow path in the woods, before the courier crossed the lake in his canoe; neither did I un- derstand that I could get any person to carry them that distance. J therefore paid my fare to the wap goner, and took leave of the old lady and the Scotchman. The latter shook me by the hand in a hearty manner, wishing me health and success, being, he said, always happy when he fell in with an Englishman, as it reminded him of his dear native land, to which he was still at- tached. I believe the Scotch people, of all men in the world, are the last that lose their predilec- tion for their native country, and for this reason they are the best colonists that Great Britain can have. The Americans are fond of the Irish ; partial to the English ; but hate the Scotch. This, I am told, arises from the recollection that the op- pression which they experienced previous to and during the revolutionary war, was occasioned by what they term the " Bute Junto." The South Britons, they say, would have listened to their complaints, averted the horrors of war, and saved America, had they not been governed by the Scotch. This is at the best but problematical, and the independence of the United States has perhaps arisen more out of that state of things which occasions nations and empires to rise and fall, flourish and decay, than solely to any par- ticular event, or the actions of any particular set ST. ALBAN'S BAY. 521 of men ; they may lend their influence to the accomplishment of certain ends, but amidst the discordant and jarring interests of millions, they are but as drops of water in the ocean. St. Alban's bay is about three miles from the town ; and having parted from my fellow-tra- vellers, I procured another waggon to convey me and my baggage thither. The road was bad, and I was shaken unmercifully; the country hereabout was more cleared, though apparently but indif- ferently cultivated, for the soil in many places was rocky and unfruitful. Arrived at the bay, I put up at a small house, which can hardly be called a tavern ; it is, however, open for the ac- commodation of strangers who have occasion to pass that way. I had intended to have crossed the lake immediately ; but the wind blew so vio- lent, that the ferryman could not venture even to the opposite side of the bay. His canoe indeed was a miserable and dangerous mode of convey- ance, even in the finest weather, for it would scarcely hold two persons, and was in a shattered condition. Having, therefore, made up my mind to spend the remainder of the day at St. Alban's bay, I went into the house and ordered dinner. Two strapping wenches were at the loom in one of the apartments, a shoemaker was stitching away in another, and the old landlady of the house was making beer in a large boiler over the 522 CROSS THE LAKE. kitchen fire : she however left her work immedi- ately to prepare my dinner. The beer was made with pumpkin peel, pieces of bread, and malt boiled down ; it was for the use of the house, but I preferred water to their beer. After dinner I strolled along the road, but neither the weather nor the country had sufficient charms to invite me far from the bay. A few farm-houses were scattered here and there upon the cleared grounds, and a pot-ash manufactory was situated just op- posite the tavern. I soon returned home, took a book out of my portmanteau, and amused myself with reading till I retired to rest. The next morning I was up early, in the hope that the wind had abated sufficiently to allow me to cross the lake; but, unfortunately, the gale was as violent as ever, and I was doomed to pass another day in this melancholy place ; at least it was so to me, who was anxious to reach Canada ; and I could not help repining at the embargo which prevented my sailing from Burlington, and the weather, which prevented my leaving St. Alban's. But disappointments are more or less the lot of all travellers, and I tried to reconcile myself to that which I could not avoid. The following morning, Friday 6th of May, the wind having abated, I crossed over to the first ferry in the small skiff, which by the time we landed was half full of water, though we hacj THE YOUNG FRENCH CANADIANS. 523 only three quarters of a mile to go. This was not a regular ferry, being merely temporary, on account of the rising of the lake waters, which overflow the road round the bay almost every spring, when the ice and snow melt. On my arrival at the other ferry-house the man ordered two of his sons to get the boat ready immediately, and in the mean time invited me to take some refreshment before my departure, as he said we should have a long row of more than twenty miles to Choisy, a small village situated about six miles tip a river of the same name, and within four miles of the boundary line. It happened that 1 had had no breakfast; for, being anxious to proceed im- mediately, I would not wait till it was got ready at the tavern. His invitation was therefore very agreeable, and I sat down to a large tureen of milk. His wife soon baked a johnny-cake of In- dian meal and rye at the fire, and I made an ex- cellent breakfast. There were two young French Canadians who were also waiting for a passage across the lake. They had been engaged by an American farmer at Montpelier in Vermont to assist him for a few months ; but instead of paying them their wages in hard dollars, he gave one an old pair of boots, and the other an old coat, which he considered equivalent to their labour. He gave them only tialf a dollar to carry them back to Canada, a di- 524 PASSING THE LAKE TO CHOISY. stance of sixty or seventy miles ; and if they had not met with people on the road of a more gene- rous turn than their master, they would have fared miserably. The ferryman had entertained them free of cost for two days ; and they now helped his Sons to row the boat. As we were going down to the water-side we were joined by another man, who wished to go across the lake. The boat was flat-bottomed, and sufficiently large for our ac- commodation. We had four stout rowers ; and in the course of an hour we reached the narrow part of Grande Isle, or the North Hero, as it is called by the Americans. This island is about twenty miles in length ; and to go round the end of it, in crossing to the opposite side of the lake, would be tedious work. The ferry-boats are therefore hauled over the narrow part of the isle, which is not more than fifty feet wide, and launched on the opposite side. Having treated our rowers with some brandy and a crust of bread and cheese, we started for Choisy river. This was the longest row, it being ten miles to the entrance, and six miles up the river to the village, The day was fine, and rendered our excursion on the lake ex- tremely agreeable : islands covered with trees, and distant mountains on the continent, varied the scene, and relieved the monotonous appear- ance of the large sheet of water upon which we glided along. DRUNKEN WAGGONER. 525 At four in the afternoon we arrived at Choisy, and put up at Judge Hicks's tavern. Choisy is a small village, and contains little more than a dozen straggling houses ; yet it has the hotiour to have two judges for its inhabitants. One is of a supe- rior rank, and resides in a handsome private house; the other. Judge Hicks, is a tavern-keeper, and also a custom-house officer ; he was then at the head of a party of militia on the Line enforcing the embargo laws. At the house of this gentleman I had the honour to reside till I could procure a waggon to carry me to La Prairie in Canada, a distance of forty miles. There happened to be a drunken waggoner at the tavern when I arrived, he was bargaining with a man to fetch a quantity of goods from La Prairie, and no sooner heard that I was bound thither, than he proposed to take me for five dollars. It was his own proposition, and waggoners I know have in general but little conscience, so that I felt but little repugnance at offering to go with him for a dollar less : he stood out for some time, but it was at length agreed to split the difference, and he was to take me for four dollars and a half at noon the next day ; he could not, he said, get ready before then, as his waggon was repairing. Upon this the bargain was concluded ; and he promised faithfully, even on his honour, to be with me at the appointed time. I, however, placed 5 26 MANUFACTURE OF POTASS. little reliance upon the honour of a drunken Ame- rican waggoner; and in my mind was determined, if any other offer presented itself in the mean time, to accept it. I therefore went to dinner, leaving the wag- goner bargaining with the other man for the car- riage of a load of goods from La Prairie. The next morning after breakfast 1 took a walk through the village, and visited three or four pot- ash manufactories. Pot- and pearl-ash have now become of great importance in Europe, and are used for a variety of purposes, particularly in bleaching, soap manufacture, dyeing, &c. The new settlements in America are much benefited by the great demands for these articles, and the clearing of lands thus becomes a profitable con- cern. The process for making pot-ash is as fol- lows : The trees are cut down and burnt ; after which the ashes are mixed with lime, and put into several large vats, which stand in rows upon a plat- form ; water is then pumped into them, and after filtering through the lime and ashes, it dribbles out of a spicket into a long trough that is placed in front of the vats for that purpose. The water thus drained becomes a strong lye of a dark brown co- lour, though it gives the buckets which' are con- tinually dipped into it a yellow tinge. The lye is then put into large iron boilers, or, as they are more generally called, potash kettles. Large fire THE WAGGONER. 52? are made underneath, and the lye is kept boiling for many hours, till it approaches a fine claret colour ; after which it is taken out, left to cool, and becomes a solid body, like gray stone, and is called potash. The manufacture of pearl-ashes differs but little from the other ; but these are manufactured with more care, and are afterwards calcined in an oven. 1,000 Ibs. of oak ashes will make 111 Ibs. pot-ash 1,OOO do. of hickory . . . 180 Ibs. do. 1,000 do. of beech . . . 219 Ibs. do. 1,OOO do. of elm .... 1 66 Ibs. do. 1,000 do. of maple . . . . 110 Ibs. do. The management of the fire influences the pro- duct. Labour is well paid with 700 Ibs. of potash from 400 bushels of ashes. The harder and better woods afford the most alkali. It was two in the afternoon before the wag- goner, who lived about three miles off, arrived at the tavern to take me to La Prairie. I had given him up, and was agreeably surprised to find that he had not forfeited his honour ; particularly when he told me that the man with whom he was bar- gaining yesterday to fetch goods from La Prairie had failed in his promises ; and that if he had known that he should not have had the job, he certainly would not have gone with me alone, no JUDGE HICKS. not for double the money ; but he had pledged his honour, he said, and though he might be groggy at the time, yet he was determined not to disappoint me by breaking his engagement. He would have been at the tavern exactly at the hour hepromised,had his waggon been mended in time. Just before we started from Choisy Judge Hicks and a party of militia returned from the Line. The Judge had scarce entered his tavern when he was attacked by two or three traders about the em- bargo : they rallied him for forcing the law so strictly ; what need had he to push himself so for- ward, and call out the militia ? The Judge said he only did his duty as a custom-house officer ; but the others swore it was his democratic prin- ciples that made him so zealous in favour of Jef- ferson's embargo. The Judge would have been severely roasted by the anti-embargoists if he had not left them to examine my portmanteaus, just as the driver was putting them into the waggon. He suspected that I might have specie, and lifted them up by the straps. One happening to have books in it was very heavy ; but when I offered to open it, the Judge very politely declined look- ing into it, being satisfied with my assertion that it contained nothing more than books. The Judge possibly recollected himself; and doubtless thought if he pried too closely into the baggage of his customers his tavern would soon be deserted : BAD ROAD. 529 he therefore suffered private interest to get the better of public spirit. At three in the afternoon we departed from Choisy ; the weather was indifferent, and the road lay through thick gloomy woods. About four miles from the village we passed the boundary line, and entered the province of Lower Canada. After passing a few log huts, over a tolerable good road, for about two or three miles, we entered again into the forest, where we had to plough through one of the most intolerable roads I ever met with. Sometimes the horses and waggon sunk down into deep sloughs ; and scarce was the wag- gon dragged out with the utmost difficulty when it was jolted over large rock-stones, stumps of trees, huge pines which had been blown down in a gale of wind, and large trunks of trees with which the swampy parts of the road had been filled up. For upwards of ten miles did the poor horses toil and tug through this infamous road, jolting, tossing, and tumbling the waggoner and myself in every direction : it was with difficulty we could keep our seats ; and the planks at the bottom of the waggon were every moment starting* out of their places. At one time I expected the waggoner would have given up the journey, and left me to proceed on foot ; for he declared that on his return he should have to spend the whole of the money he was to receive for my passage to VOL. II. 2 M 530 L'ACADIK. repair his waggon. At length, towards the even- ing the road became ratber better ; and about eight o'clock we arrived at a solitary tavern in the woods kept by a man of the name of Odell. This man has a brother living a few miles off possessed of considerable property, and I believe owns the township on the border of the line which bears his name. OdelFs tavern was a mere log hut ; but the apartments and furniture were clean, and in better condition than could be expected in such a wilderness. A very fine girl made tea for us ; and though the habitation was miserable, yet its inhabitants appeared as if they had seen better days, which was indeed the case before the old man became distressed by the extravagance of his sons. About four o'clock the next morning, Sunday 8th of May, we departed from OdelPs tavern. For several miles we travelled through a continued forest, consisting of every variety of trees : vege- tation was yet very backward, and there was but little to interest the traveller. I could indeed have slept composedly enough, had not the violent jolting over a bad road kept me in a perpetual motion. In two or three hours we arrived at L'Acadie, a small French settlement though of long standing. The land was cleared for several miles round ; the fields neatly fenced in, the roads good, and every thing wore the appearance of the LA PRAIRIE. 531 old settled parts of Canada. The scene was height- ened by our emerging suddenly out of the forest upon this neat settlement. The road now conti- nued very good ; and at ten o'clock we arrived at an American tavern within nine miles of LaPrai*- rie. It is situated on the road to St. John's, and was the one at which I breakfasted on my journey to that place the preceding November. Here the stage from St. John's was expected to arrive every moment ; and my waggoner earnestly requested me to take a place in it to La Prairie, as it would save him at least eighteen miles, and perhaps enable him to get back to Choisy that evening. After the civility I had received from the man, and knowing what an infamous road he had to travel over, I readily assented to his pro- posal : I therefore paid him the four dollars and a half, besides defraying his expenses at OdelFs tavern; upon which he heartily thanked me, and was so well satisfied that he begged I would favour him with my name. At breakfast I was attended by the landlord's handsome daughter whom I have before men- tioned : she was as fair as the rest of her country^ women in the States, but possessed a finer colour, to which the sharp northern air of Canada is more congenial than the warmer climate of the south. The stage soon arrived ; and luckily for my wag- goner there was just room for one person. I got ARRIVE AT MONTREAL. into the stage, and in the course of a couple of hours arrived at La Prairie de la Madelaine. The wind blowing very hard down the river St. Lawrence, Mr. Linger, a collector of the cus- toms at St. John's, and myself were prevented from crossing over to Montreal. We therefore dined at Cheeseman's tavern ; after which the wind abating a little, we embarked in a canoe at Longuiel, and passed through the rapids above the islands, which owing to the high wind were vio- lently agitated. It was a dangerous excursion, and I was completely wet through when I landed at Montreal. I immediately proceeded once more to Dillon's hotel, after an interval of six months. THE END. Richard Taylor and Co., Printers, Shoe-Lane, London* fl ^ V