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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
ALGERIA AND TUNIS
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MUKRAY'S HANDBOOK.
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HANDBOOK FOK TEAVELLEKS
ALGERIA AND TUNIS
ALGIERS, ORAN, TLEMgEX, BOUGIE,
CONSTANTINE, TEBESSA, BISKRA, TUNIS, CARTHAGE,
By Sir R. LAMBERT PLAYFAIR, K.C.M.G.
AUTHOR OF ' HANDBOOK (MURRAY's) TO THE MEDITERRANEAN ; '
'travels in the footsteps of BRUCE ;'
'the scourge of CHRISTENDOM,"
ETC.
FOURTH EDITION, THOROUGHLY REVISED.
WITH MAPS AND PLANS
LONDON:
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PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION
It is not yet three years since the third edition of this Handbook was
published, and already the immense extension of railway communica-
tion in the Colony has rendered it out of date.
Tlio line from Algiers to Tunis has been completed ; a new one
has opened out Biskra, which is now within twelve hours of the sea.
This cannot fail to become one of the most important winter
stations in the basin of the Mediterranean. Another conducts to
Tebessa and its wonderful Roman ruins; Bougie, the starting-point
for the Chabet Pass, can be reached in one day from Algiers ; the
line to Tlemgen, the African Granada, is almost entirely finished ;
and the last one opened, from Mostaganem to Tiaret, renders easily
accessible a country full of archajological interest
The Handbook lias been thorouglily revised, and matters of an
ephemeral nature, including information rclathig to hotels, etc., have
been relegated to an Inde.x and Directory.
R. L. P.
AuJiEUs, October 1889.
In most instances throughout this volume the metric system has been
adopted in preference to the English one. The following tables may be found
useful by those whose minds have not yet become habituated to this more
rational standard : —
5 centimetres = 2 inches.
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
4
n
H
111
13t
15f
171
191
1 kilometre — I miles.
n
If
2i
3^
1 metre = 3 feet 3f inches.
2
3
4
5
6
7
9
10
6 kilometres = 3| miles.
7 4-3
8 ,, 5 ,,
9 ,, 5t ,,
10 ,, 6i „
6 ,
7i ,
9 ,
10* ,
13 ,
24
16 ,
6° ,
19 ,
9f ,
23 ,
li ,
26 ,
10* >
29 ,
81
33 ,
,
1 hectare = 2i acres.
The sign 9 after the names of Roman remains indicates places always
interesting to the archajologist, but in a less degree to the ordinary traveller.
CONTENTS
SECTION I
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION
1 Routes — London to Algeria
2 Climate of Algeria .
3 Season for Travelling — Choice
of Residence
4 I'ailways ....
5 Population and Races
G Native Languages .
7 General Description of Algeria
and Tunis ....
8 Historical Notice of Algeria
and Tunis ....
PAGE
SECT.
!>AOE
1
9
Government of Algeria .
65
2
10
Sport
67
5
G
11
Zoology ....
70
12
Geology, Jlineralogy, Hot
6
Springs, etc.
75
12
13
Colonisation, Cereals, Fruit
12
and Vegetables, Flora, Agri-
culture, Forests, etc. .
81
20
14
Archfeology ..."
89
SECTION II
ALGERIA
City of Algiers
EXCUKSIONS IN THE EnVIIION.S OF AluIEKS
A Fortnight's Tour in Algeria .
93
105
112
ROUTES
UOUTE
1 Algiers to PlUUppevillc, BOne,
and I'nnis by sea
2 Algiers to Uhci-chcl and Tipasa
3 Algiers to Culeah and the Tom-
beau clc la Cliretiennr .
4 Algiers to Uqv'ujo and the baths
of Hammam Mcluuan .
5 Algiers to Tcnid-d-Ahd .
6 Algiers to Tizi-Ouzou and Fort
National ....
7 Algiers to El-Aijlioual, througli
the Gorge of the Chiffa, JIc-
deah, and Boghari
8 Algiers to Constantinc by rail .
113
133
13?
140
141
143
147
155
ROUTE
9 Algiers to AumoJc and Bou
Sadda ....
10 Algiers to Oran by rail .
11 Pliilippeville to Constantinc by
rail .....
City of Constantinc
E.Kcursions in the Neighbour-
hood .....
12 Constantinc to Alijicrs, by the
Chahcl cl-Akhira
13 Bougie to Bcni-Mansour and
on to Ahjicrs by rail .
14 Constantinc to Batna and
Biskra ....
163
165
184
185
19:
199
.i02
204
CONTENTtJ
ROUTE
14 Excursions in the Neighbour-
hooil of Batna .
15 Biskra to Tiigrfurt
16 To Tcbessa ....
17 Tebessa to Souk-Ahraa, by
Khamisa ....
18 To Ain-Brida
19 Constaiitine to Bone by rail .
20 Excursion through the Kabylia
of D jurJjura from Bordj hou-
Arrcredj to the Oucd es-Sahel
and Fort National
21 Algiers to Tenes by OrUansvilh
22 Mostaganem to Tiarct by rail
206
217
221
228
234
236
242
246
247
ROUTE
23 Oran to Tlein<;en .
24 A Tour through the centre of
Oran to Mascara, Sidi hcl
Alhts, Tlc7n(;en, Lalla Mar-
nia, Kedroma, and Nemours
25 St. Barbe de Tlelat to Sidi
hel Ahhts by rail [thence
to Tlemren by diligence], on
to Ras d-Ma
26 Arzeu to Mascara, Saida, Mc-
chcria and A'in-Scfra by
rail .....
27 Oran to Bcni tiaf, Nemours,
and the Frontier of Morocco
PACE
254
265
268
272
279
SECTION III
TUNIS
ROUTE
Regency of Tuxis
The Goletta
City of Tunis
Carthage ....
Excursion to the Bardo and
the Roman Aqueduct be-
yond Manouha .
Excursion to Hammam el-Enf
Best Route from Tunis to
Algiers ....
28 Bone to Timis by rail .
29 Excursion in the Country of
the Khomair
PAGE
284
286
286
291
297
298
298
299
305
ROUTE PAGE
30 Tunis to EI -Kef via Souk el-
Arbaa . . . .308
31 Excursion to Bizcrta and
Utica . . . .309
32 Excursion to ZagJiouaii and
Oudena . . . .312
33 Voyage along the Coast of
Tunis from the Goletta to
the Island of BJerba . .317
34 Susa to Kcrouan . . . 328
35 Excursion from Kerouan to
Sbeitla .... 331
Glossary of Arabic Words
ArPENDix — List of Consuls, and Bibliography
Index and Directory
XI
334
341
LIST OP' MAPS AND WOODCUTS
Algiers and its Exvikons
. To face Title
Town of Algieiis
93
Haubouu of Philippeville
120
„ BuXE
. 1-22
,, La Calle
128
Oi:ax and its Exviroxs
To face 179
Plan' of Constantine .
,, 185
The Djedaks ....
. 252
Plan of Beni Saf
. 280
Travelling Map of Algeria .
. To face 283
Map of Tunis .
,, 284
Tunis and its Environs
,, 2S6
GLOSSARY OF ARABIC WORDS USED IX THIS BOOK.
.16, Aboo, Abou, Bou, father, possessor of,
Abd, slave. PI. Abid.
Abiad, white. Fern. Baida.
Abiar. PL of bir, welL
Achour, tax.
A(jfui (Tiirk.), lord.
Ahel, peojile.
Ahmer, red. Fern. Harnara.
A in, eye, spring. PI. Ayoun. Diniiu.
Aouuia.
Ainah, grapes.
Alt. Kabyle for Beni, children of.
Akfial, black. Fem. Kahala.
Akhdar, green. Fem. Khadara.
Alfa, see Ualfa,
Anuda, province.
A min, head of a DjemoUi.
Anchir, see Henchir.
Annab, jujube, Zizai)hus.
Aov.d, horse.
Aradh, earth.
Arbiia, four, Wednesday, 4th day.
Arch, tribal land.
Areg, sandhill ; Berr-el-Areg, country of
sandhills, the desert.
Asfel, low. Fem. Safala.
Azel, Government land.
Azib, encampment.
B(d), gate. PI. Biban.
Bach-Af/ka, governor of a certain number
of tribes.
Badia, country, ojiposed to town.
Baghxd, mule.
Bahr, sea ; Bahira, small sea or plain.
Bedoui, bedouin. PI. Bedou.
Beit, house ; beit-esh-shiiar, hair house
= tent.
Beled, town. PI. Biddan. Dimin. Be-
lida.
Ben, Ibn, son. PI. Beni,
Berd, cold.
Jier); countrj-, region.
Beijlick, belonging to Government.
Bir, well. PI. Abiar. Dimin. Bouir.
Birkeh, lake, pond.
Bl((d, more correctly Behul, countrj*.
BvrdJ, castle ; Bordj-el-fanar, lighthouse.
Boil, see Ab.
Caftan, Turkish dress.
Chaiha, ravine.
Chaouch, attendant on Bureau Arab, cor-
responding to Indian Pecm,
C'hebaka, net. PI. Chebabik.
Chott, salt lake.
CoiiscousoT Couscousou, a farinaceous food
used by the Arabs ; Kabyle, .Seksou.
Bar, stone house ; Dar-es-San<ia, manu-
factory.
Daradja, step ; Droudj, stairs.
Defla, oleander.
Dekhla, pass, gorge.
Deshera, village.
Dhara, north.
Dhaija, pool, marsh.
Dhib, jackal. PI. Dhiab.
Dhiffa, repast ottered to guests.
I)is&, coarse grass.
Djamxki, mosque, village council.
Djaneb, side.
Djebel, mountain. •
Djebeli, mountaineer.
Djedar, wall. PI. Adjdar.
Ijjehad, war against infidels.
Djelad, tanner.
Djenan, garden.
Jjjenoub, south.
Djerid, palm branch, country of palms.
Djidid, new. '
I>jir, lime.
Djisr, bridge.
hjizira, island. PI. Djezair; el-Djezair,
the islands = Algiers.
Dom, dwarf palm.
Douar, grouji of Arab tents or families.
Doula, state, government.
El; The.
Faros, mare.
Fedj, pass, col.
Ferka, section of a tribe.
Fenian, cork tree.
Fod/ui, silver.
Fokani, upper.
Fondouk, inn.
GL088AUY OF AHAIilC WORDS
Foum, iiiouUi, oi)eniiig.
Foum, oven.
Ghaha, forest.
Clhar, cave.
Ohurab, west.
Oharsa, i)laiitatioii.
Okazala, gazelle. PI. Ohozlan.
Ohorfa, grotto.
Goum, more correctly Koum, body of Arab
soldiers.
Gourbi, Arab luit.
Guetar, small wells.
ffabs, prison.
Hculari, Aral) living in town.
Haddad, blacksmith.
Haddid, iron.
Hadj or Iladji, pilgi-im to Mecca.
Hadjara, stone. PL Iladjar.
Ilafra, excavation.
Hai, living.
Jlahik, throat, canal.
Haifa, esparto grass.
Hamma, warm spring.
Hammam, bath.
Ilarah, quarter of a city.
Hassi, little well.
Ilenchir, farm, Roman ruins.
Hezzam, girdle.
Hold, fish.
Ibn, see ben.
Ighil, Kaliyle for ridge.
Imam, leader of prayers in a mosque.
J, see Dj, usual French orthography.
Kadi, native judge.
Kaffir, infidel.
Kaid, head of a tribe.
Kalaa, fort.
Kantara, arch, bridge.
Kasba, citadel.
Kasi; palace.
Kebila, tribe. PI. Kebail.
Kebir, gi-eat.
Kedim, old.
Kef, hill, mount.
Kelb, dog.
Kcrma, fig.
lihadem, slave, servant.
Khames, lit. one-fifth ; tenants who are
remunerated with one-fifth of the pro-
duce of land for its cultivation.
Khaukh, peach.
Khazna., treasure.
Khaznadar, treasurer.
Kheit, thread, rope worn by Arabs as a
head-dress.
Kheneg, defile.
Khcnian, more correctly Akhouan, pi. of
Alh, brother ; member of a religious
confraternity.
Kihla, direction of Mecca in a mosque.
Kibrit, sulphur.
Korn, horn.
Kotan, cotton.
Koubba, a dome ; generally applied to
tombs of Mohammedan saints.
Koudia, small hill.
Koum, mound.
Kubr, tomb. PI. Kubour.
Kidb, heart.
Kusab, a reed.
Kvsr, palace.
Lela, lady.
Ma., water.
Mdaden, a mine.
Mubrouk, blessed.
Alafrag, bifurcation.
Maghreb, sunset, west.
Maiz, goat.
Makam, place.
Makbara, cemetery.
Makhzen, magazine, civil Spahi.
Man-oura, victorious.
Marabout, more coiTcctly Marabet, a per-
son devoted to religion. PI. Maraba-
tiiu
Miiaskara, camp.
Mabnor, silos.
Mechera, ford.
Medina, city.
Medjez, ferry,
Medressa, college.
Mehalla, camp.
Meldh, mdleh, salt, adj.
Melh, salt, subs.
Melk, freehold property.
Melouan, (coloured.
Memleka, kingdom.
Menara, minaret.
Menzel, place.
Merdj, meadow.
Meridj, swamp.
Mersa, anchorage.
Me.fjid, mosque.
Messaoud, happy.
Mezrag, a lance.
GLOSSARY OF ARABIC WORDS
Mimhar, pulpit.
Moghrelj, west ; the West country, namely,
the Barbary coasts.
Mokaddem, head-man ; generally used for
the cliief of a religious body.
Moula'i, my Lord.
Nadour, observatoiy.
Nahr, river.
Nakhcda, date tree.
Nemd, ant.
Nouha, garrison.
Omni, mother.
Oil, the Berber equivalent of Beyi, son of.
Oiced, river, valley.
Oulad. PL of Walad, sou.
Otimena. PL oi Amin, q. v.
Oust, middle, waist ; central court in a
house.
Rnhim, merciful.
Rahnmn, compassionate.
Ra'is, cajitain.
Rakhnm, marble.
Rainla, sand.
Rus, head, cape.
Razzia, more correctly Ghazzia, plunder-
ing expedition.
Roumi, lit. Roman ; used to exj^ress
Christian.
Silada, happiness.
Sabegha, tribal land.
Safel, lower part.
Saharklj, cisterns.
Sdheh, owner, companion.
Siikel, coast.
Sakuc, canal for irrigation.
Sehala, fountain.
Sebkha, salt lake.
Sebt, seventh, Saturday.
Sedra, zizaphus or jujube tree.
Seghir, small.
Sell, torrent.
Sekkin, knife.
Seksou, Kabyle name for couscous.
Skafucm, fat, grease.
Shirk, east.
Si or Sidi, my Lord.
Silos, underground receptacles for corn.
Skijfa, vestibule of a Moorish house.
Snuila, small fort occupied by Spahis.
So/, league, confraternity.
Souk, market,
Tiiam, food ; couscousou.
Toioil, long. Fern. ToioHa.
Zab. PL Zihan, an oasis watered by a
river.
Zan, an oak.
Zaouia, college, convent, or place of
refuge for poor scholars or religious
mendicants.
Zeitoun, olive,
Zekka, tax on cattle.
SECTION I
NTRODUCTORY INFORMATION
PAOE
1.
Routes — Loxdox to Al-
8.
OEUIA , . . .
1
2.
Climate of Algeria .
2
9.
3.
Season for Travelling-
10.
Choice OF Residence
5
11.
4.
Railways . . . .
6
12.
5.
Population and Races
6
6.
Native Languages
12
13.
7.
General Description of
Algeria and Tunis .
12
M.
Historical Notice of Al-
geria AND TUNLS . . 20
Government of Algeria . 65
Sport 67
Zoology . . . .70
Geology, Mineralogy, Hut
Springs, etc. . . .75
Colonisation, Agricui-tuue,
FoKEsTs, etc. . . .81
ARCHiEOLOGY . . .89
§ 1. Routes — London to Algeria.
The direct route from England to Algeria is through Paris and Mai-seilles.
The traveller can either reach the latter place by the ordinary route, via
Lyons, or by the more picturesque one passing through Clcrmont-FeiTand
and Nimes.
From Marseilles excellent steamers of the Transatlantiquc Companij (6 Rue
Auber, Paris ; 12 Rue dc la Republiijue, Marseilles) run daily to Algiers, and
to various other parts of the colony, as well as to Tunis. These departures
are so numerous, and so much liable to change, that the traveller should con-
sult the time-tables of the Company. The voyage to Algiers occupies from 24
to 36 hours, varying with the vessel and the state of the weather, and costs
£4. Cheaper but less comfortable vessels of the Compcajnic Mixlc (9 Ruo
Kougement, Paris ; 54 Rue Cannebiere, Marseilles), and of the SocieU G6niralc
dc Tratisports Maritimcs a Vapeur (3 Rue des Templicrs, ^Marseilles), also run
weekly between Marseilles and Algiers.
Vessels of the Ilult or Ocean Line, of J. Moss and Compani/, and of Messrs.
PajKiyanni, leave Liverpool frequently. Information regarding them may be
obtained from Messrs. Gellatly, Hankey Sewell, and Co., Pall Mall, London,
and 1 Fenchurch Street, Liverpool, who will also forward heavy luggage.
Travellers will be saved much trouble and inconvenience if they procure all
necessary tickets before leaving London. They are recommended to Messrs. T.
Cook and Son (Ludgate Circus, Cliaring Cross, and 35 Piccadilly), who, besides
supplying tickets, arc always ready to furnish the traveller with all informa-
tion he may recpiire. Office in Algiers in Siiuaro Bresson.
[AlijcrUi.] li
2 § 2. CIJMATE OF AUiKlUA Ahje'iia
§2. Climatk OF Algeuia.
The traveller coming to Algiers with the idea that he is to firnl a rainless
and almost tropical winter, will certainly he disappointed. For this he must
go to Egypt, where fertility is not dependent on rainfall. At Algiers he will
rind the best winter climate on the western shores of the Mediterranean, but
it will not be without a due proportion of rain and cold.
June, July, August, September, are practically rainless, and the two last
extremely hot.
October and November give what would be counted the loveliest summer
weather in England, with occasional, and probably very heavy, rains.
December, January, February and March are not unlike an English
autumn, with a double allowance of sunshine, and of rain also, and none of
its dampness.
April and May, again, give the most perfect English summer weather, with
but very little rain, and are certainly the most enjoyable months in the year.
The seasons are, however, extremely variable. During the many years
which the writer has spent in Algiers, no two winters have been alike, and
a high functionary once remarked to him that he had spent thirty years in
Algeria and had seen thirty exceptional winters.
Usually the rain falls heavily when it falls at all, and is seldom of long
duration. The fine drizzling rain so common in the north of Europe is here
of rare occurrence, and in the neighboiu'hood of Algiers itself the soil is of so
absorbent a nature, and the ground so steeji, that the moment the rain ceases
and the sun has reappeared, the roads dry, and delicate invalids can take their
exercise in the open air. But once or twice in the course of the season a
bout of rain and wind must be expected which will continue two or three days.
Even in these cases the air is not damji, and wet objects not actually exposed
to the rain will become dry when it is falling most heavily. Kain falls on
the average on about SO days out of the 365 ; but not more than one quarter
of these could with any propriety be termed "wet days." To ensure a fine
harvest, at least 36 inches of rain are required ; and for visitors the rainier
seasons are found the most enjoyable, dust being, in Algiers, even in winter, a
far greater annoyance than rain. It may be added that about 60 per cent of
the rain usually falls at night. The average in Algiers is about 29 inches.
The first rains after the long summer drought, which are also the hea^aest
downpours, occur, sometimes in September, generally about the middle of
October, and produce an instantaneous change in the climate. December Ls
usually the wettest mouth of the twelve on the coast of Algeria ; on the
high ground in the interior the most abundant rains are expected in the
spring ; but any month from October to March may be the wettest of some
particular season.
Frost and snow are in Algiers so lare as to be almost unknown, though
hailstorms are frequent. But on the High Plateaux, and on the most elevated
inhabited parts of the Tell, the frost is severe, the snow lies long and deep,
while the highest mountains retain some snow patches as late as the beginning
of June.
Introd. § 2. climate of Algeria 3
The rain, the wind, and the cold generally come from the N.W. Tlie
N.E. wind, so dreaded in Europe, is here almost unknown, and harmless when
it docs come. There is absolutely nothing at Algiers answering to the terrible
mistrale of the Riviera. The north winds, temiiered by 500 miles of sea, have
had all mischief extracted from them in their passage ; and the cold which
I'omes with or after the rain has none of that searching keenness so disagree-
able in winds blowing directly from snowy mountains. The sirocco, or desert
wind, is in winter merely a pleasantly warm, dry l)reeze ; in spring and autumn
it can be disagreeably hot, but its terrors are reserved for the summer mouths.
Fortunately it does not often last more than three days at a time, but during
its continuance the thermometer will rise about 100° in the shade on the sea-
beacli, and much higher a little distance inland ; the sky becomes dim ; the
air is charged with hue sand, vegetable life seems to become extinguished, or
at least suspended, and it is by no means an uncommon event to see a whole
field of vines Avithered in a moment by a blast of this burning wind.
When the sirocco is not blowing, the nights, even during the hottest
season, are cool and refreshing, and dews are copious.
There can be no doubt that Algiers is the best winter residence within
easy range of England. It is not so warm and agreeable as Madeira or Egypt,
but it is preferable to any place on the north shore of the ilediterraneau, and
it has the great advantage of being within four days' easy journey of London.
Whatever a climate can do for a sick person Algiers ought to accomplish, but
it cannot work a miracle.
Dr. Jackson, in his Medical Climaioloijy, justly remarks : —
"As a resort from the inclement seasons of Northern Europe, for persons
threatened with pulmonary consumption, Algiers is deservedly in good reputa-
tion. The climate is far from being of a relaxing character; on tlie contrary,
it combines with its usual mildness and equability a decidedly bracing and
tonic intluence. Consumptive patients, in whom there is a well-marked
deposit of crude tubercle, may pass one or more winters in Algiers with
advantage, under circumstances which afford nature the most ample leisure
for repairing the disorganised structure. The sooner the patient is placed
under its influence the more likely is the result to be beneficial. But when
the disease has gone beyond what I have mentioned, when the patient is
obviously sinking under tlie malady, Algiers is not to be recommended."
It is cruelty for the physician to recommend such to (juit the comforts of
liis own home and the society of friends in the hope of restoring health, a hope
which he well knows to be fallacious.
For some heart diseases the climate of Algiers is remarkably eflBcacious,
even more so than for pulmonary complaints.
As a rule the patient should not prolong his sta}' after the first heats of
summer have commenced, yet it ought to be known tliat some of the most
remarkable cures that have been effected here have been in the case of those
who have spent two winters and the intervening summer in Algiers.
The following tables will give a more accurate idea of the climate of Algiera
Ilian any mere description of it : —
§ 2. ClilMATE OP ALGERIA
Alycria
TAiiLE OF Tempeuatuue (Fahrenheit) compiled from Observations made,
under the Algerian Government, at the Military Hospital of Algiers
(Ilopital du Dey), during 13 years from 1865 to 1877. The thermometers
are ])laced about 300 yards from the sea-beach, about 50 feet above the
sea-level, and about 6 feet from the ground.
<^s
^ a
^
«ia
f:
a
6C.2 g
""12
3
f2g
*2 J-
.2 *
lis
Og^
gs ^
PS>.
zs >^
s2i
S >»
§0^ ^
4J-U "
"S-u "
a) CO
rt &«
tC-i
53
■5
2.2
■5
.^H--
January
V7
32
48
62
60J
48
54
February
75
m
48
63
62
48i
55i
March .
82J
34
51
66
64
50
57
April .
95^
37
60
70
68i
53i
61
May .
S9J
45i
57
72|
73^
58i
66
June .
101
53
66
75
78^
63i
71
July .
102
57i
75J
77
84i
69
76i
August .
111
50i
75
82i
86i
70
78
September
109
53i^
68^
79
83
68
75J
October
"J7
44
6U
79
75i
61
68J
November
84 i
40
53^
6Si
66i
54
60J
December
m
34
50
66
6U
48^
55
N.B. — On the sides and top of the hills about Mustafa it would be necessary to add
about 3 degrees to extremes of heat, and subtract about 4 degrees for extremes of cold.
Table of Rainfall (reduced to English inches) compiled from Observations
made, under the Algerian Government, at the Military Hospital of
Algiers (Hopital du Dey), during 14 years from July 1864 to June 1878,
The rain-gauge is about 300 yards from the sea-beach, about 50 feet above
the sea-level, and about 15 feet from the ground.
s
3 .
3
bcr
ch a
iitity
len.
^ .
35
a p
^ >.
ll
C3 tS
'3 i
go nui
on \vl
blequ
has fa
3S
^o
«2l
1§^
rt ^
cs -J5 t4 s
■2 S
.:d^-«
fc.2
S c
IS-S-i
rt^
sS'^
'^
;>— 2 ^
J =
<
a
^^
°i°
o
W.2
January
3-64
7-66
•28
10
17
2
3-30
February
2-40
5-49
-06
7
16
2
1-48
March .
3-97
9-17
•56
12
23
4
1-S9
April .
I 2-02
4-20
■04
12
1
1-46
May .
1-21
2-78
-04
5
11
1
2-05
June
•91
3-43
-04
3
9
1
2^13
July .
•09
•46
1
3
•32
August
■40
4-04
1
5
3-98
September
; f21
7-00
3
10
2-25
October
1 3-72
10-06
-35
8
13
3
2-84
November
4-01
7-00
1-16
10
19
4
1-77
December
5-42
S-38
•68
13
20
1
1-91
Total
29-00
79
Introd. § 3. reason for travelling, etc. 5
The average rainfall of Algiers iiiaj^ be estimated at 788 mil. =29 inches ;
that of Oran at 510 mil. =19 inches ; at Constantine there is about 644 mil. =
24 inches, but Tiiucli less on the High Plateaux of that province. For instance,
the average at Setif is only G44 mil. =24 inches ; Batna, 412 mil. = 15 inches ;
whereas on the coast it is much greater, 1189 mil. = 44 inches at Bougie;
945 at Djedjehy = 35 inches ; 789 at rhilippeville = 29 inches ; and 842 at La
Calle = 31 inches.
Three meteorological departments have been established by Government,
at Algiers, Oran, and Constantine, and 44 stations have been provided with
instruments. These extend to the border of the Sahara on the one hand, and
from Sfax to Mogador on the coast. The observations are centralised every
day at Algiers, and puldislied in the evening.
§ 3. Season foii Travelling— Choick of Residence,
The best season for visiting Algeria is from the beginning of November
to the end of May. During January, February, March, and part of April, a
good deal of rain may be expected, and many of the routes are then difficult,
if not impossible. Still, short excursions may be made at any time when
the weather apjiears settled. November and December are good months for
travelling in the interior, but not nearly so much so as April and May, when
all nature is briglit with the hues of spring and the most gorgeous wild flowers.
Beyond all doubt May is the finest month in the year, but the days are some-
what hot, and walking in the sun oppressive.
The only recommendation which it is necessary to give regarding clothing
is, that the traveller should bring and wear exactly the same garments as he
would use in England at a corresi)onding season. The cold, of course, is much
less in Algeria, but it is felt more.
Visitors to Algeria may be divided into two categories, the tourist and the
invalid ; the former will not care to remain very long in one place, and need
only consult his own inclination as to a choice of residence. To the latter,
liowever, this question is a very serious one. He generally conies abroad at
great personal inconvenience, and he is willing to sacrifice every consideration
to the vital one of health. He will almost certainly select Algiers itself as liis
residence, and he will do well to avoid the town as much as pos.sible, and live
in the country. In most cases the higher up he rises on the Mustafa hill, the
better and purer is the air. The writer is almost inclined to say the icanncr
is the climate, for though houses on the highest level are more exposed to the
wind, they escape the damp vapour which fre(iuently clings to the valleys
below, and they are more thoroughly exposed to the sun. The ascent is
hardly an objection, as it is balanced by the advantage that, once on the
summit, an invalid can walk for miles almost on level ground, amongst a
never-ending variety of shady lanes, whereas lower down liis ramldes must bo
entirely on the public road, and either up or down hill.
There are numerous villas situated in beautiful gardens in the environs of
Algiers, and several excellent hotels and pensions.
The best locality for a winter residence is the slope of Mustafa Supericur,
§ 4. RAILWAYS. § 5. POPULATION AND RACES Ah/eria
and along tlic road leading; thence, past the Colonne Voirol towards
El-]]iar.
Rents have risen considcrahly of late, and it is liardly possiljlc to obtain
tlie smallest furnished villa witli a garden there under 3G00 f. for the season
of six months, and they range from that sum up to 8000 or 10,000 f. In less
desirable quarters, such as the village d'Isly, the Agha, Mustafa Inferieur,
and St. Eugene, the prices are lower, but the houses are not so good, and
those localities are far less healthy and enjoyable.
English visitors reside generally in the country hotels in preference to
those in the town ; the former are in every respect more healthy and enjoyable,
though perhaps a little more expensive. For more precise informatiou
regarding houses, servants, etc., visitors may apply to Mr. Dunlop, 13 Ruo
d'Isly, house and general agent. He also keeps a butcher's and grocer's shop,
where visitors are sure to find all they can possibly require.
§ 4. Railways.
The railway system of Algeria has made rapid progress of late years. The
aim of the administration is to have a central line from Tunis to Morocco,
passing through the most important points in the interior, and various sub-
sidiary lines joining this with the sea.
The lines actually open are indicated in the body of the work.
§ 5. Population and Races.
The population of Algeria, according to the census of 1881, was as
follows : —
9
1
§
c
c
■§1
si
Total.
Algiers
Oran .
Constantine
Totals .
OS, 807
70,577
64,555
11,582
14,588
9,495
42,043
68,383
3,894
8,489
4,149
21,055
3,738
477
11,187
1,186
2,017
998
3,671
12,425
6,232
1,082,156
592,708
1,174,002
1,251,672
767,322
1,291,418
233,939
35,665
114,320
33,693
15,402 4,201
22,328
2,848,866
3,310,412
269,604
103,415
In comparing the census of 1881 with that of 1876, there appears an in-
crease of 442,786 in favour of the former year ; an increase which is apparent
in every class of the population, except Germans, in which there is a decrease
of 2312.
The two principal divisions into which the Mohammedan races inhabiting
Algeria may be divided are the Berbers and Arabs. The former is a branch
of the great aboriginal people which inhabited the north of Africa as far south
as the Soudan, Eg3'pt, Nubia, and as far as the west shore of the Red Sea.
1 Incliules Maltese and natives of Gibraltar.
Introd. § 5, population and races 7
But tlie word Berber is an inaccurate one ; it was quite unknown to the
ancients, wlio always designated the aboriginal races by specific names, such
as Lyhians, Nuinidiuas, Massijlians, etc. It was the Arab conquerors who
first united them all by using the term Berber, meaning to imply people
whose language they could not understand ; they themselves never recognised
the appellation, and do not use it now.
Distinct bodies of this race still exist, especially in the more inaccessible
parts of the country ; but, for the most part, they have become amalgamated
with the Arabs, and have lost both their distinctive character and language.
This blending of the native races with their conquerors took place at two dis-
tinct epochs, the first after the brilliant conquest of North Africa by the Arab
warriors in the 7tli century (see p. 31), and the second after the more serious
invasion of an immense Arab population in the 11th centur}' (see p. 32).
The most important branches of this people still retaining anything like
purity of origin or distinctive language, are the Kabylcs and the Chaivia —
the latter are described farther on ; the former, who inhabit the mountainous
districts nearer Algiers, and with whom the traveller comes more frequently
in contact, deserve a separate description.
The Kabyles. (Arab. Kahail, pi. of Kabila, a tribe.) This name is given
to the people of Berber origin who inhabit the mountains of the littoral ; the
Bcni-Maiuoisir, to the south of Cherchel, and various tribes bordering tlic
Metidja, are as much Kabyles as the mountaineers of Djurdjura. Kaliylia
jiroper, however (see p. 14), has a population of about 200,000, less than a
tenth of the whole native inhabitants of Algeria.
It is certain that this race has at various epochs been much mixed with
other elements, and the debris of the Greek and Roman colonies must have
constituted a considerable portion of this mixture. The religious persecutions
of the Arians and Donatists, which so effectually prepared the way for
Islamism, no doubt drove many of the poorer members of these colonies for
safety to the mountains, where they soon became mixed up with the aboriginal
inhabitants. There can still be traced among their customs the traditions of
Itoman law and nuinicij)al institutions, and one frequently meets amongst
them types, easily recognisable, of the Latin and Germanic races. Some liave
supposed that the crosses which Kabyle girls are in tlie habit of tattooing on
their faces and arms are remnants of the Cliristian faith ; as also the very
ditlerent ])osition occupied by the women to that usual in Mohammedan
countries.
Many of their families no doubt had European ancestors, dating from long
after the extinction of the Romans ; their own traditions assert this fact, and
the beauty of the women of AU Ouagucnnoun, which is proverbial in the
country, is regarded as a proof of their foreign origin. The Arab element
ajuongst them was introduced later, less by actual conquest than by the moral
infiuence of Islamism, and the institution of slavery lias had the cllect
here, as in all Mohammedan countries, of introducing black blood into the
mixture.
Kabylia, having preserved its independence for centuries, has always
afforded a safe retreat to political and criminal refugees ; they were rcccivctl
8 § 5. POPULATION AND RACES Alr/eria
witli an niiqnostioiiinj^ hospitality, and ended a career of adventure in tlicse
|ieaccful retreats. The secret of their origin lias died with tiiein, l)Ut their
traces remain in the fair complexion, hlne eyes, and red hair, everywhere
found in the country, which certainly do not helong to African or Asiatic
races.
In almost all their essential characteristics tlic Kahyles are the very oppo-
site of th(' Arabs. They never mount on horseback ; they arc not nomailes or
pastoral ; but they are strong and industrious, excellent farmers, cultivating
their land with the care usually bestowed on market-gardens. They are indus-
trious mechanics, and manufacture several articles, such as f)ottery and
jewellery, with great taste and elegance.
One of their most distinguishing characteristics is intense patriotism.
This is manifest in all their institutions, but especially by a custom which
prevailed amongst them in times of danger, or invasion by a foreign enemy.
A number of the youth enrolled themselves in a sort of forlorn hope called
Imcssehelcn (pi. of Mcssehel), wdiose duty it was to sacrifice their lives for the
protection of their country. The prayers for the dead were read over them
before going into action, from which they could only return victorious. If
they were killed their bodies were buried in a cemetery apart, which was ever
after used as a place of pra}'er, and considered as peculiarly deserving of vener-
ation. Were one of them to escape with the loss of honour from the field, he
and all his kindred wovild for ever be held in contempt as outcasts.
Moreover, the Kabyle character lends itself more readily to social progi-ess
than that of the Arab : he is less distrustful, more industrious, and less dis-
posed to that life of lazy indifference which is characteristic of the latter. He
is surrounded on all sides by European colonisation, and willingly frequents
the farms of colonists in search of work ; while the greater part of the Arabs
live in isolated tribes, and have rarely an opportunity of seriously appreciating
the advantages of civilisation.
The Kabyles all belong to the Mohammedan religion, and to the orthodox
Maleki rite — that is, they have adopted the doctrine of the Imam Malek as
their interpretation of religious civil law. (See also p. 15.) Their dress is of
a whitish hue, sometimes black and white, and consists of the Jiaik over the
chelouka or woollen shirt which extends below the knee. They wear a small
skull-cap on the head, generally a complicated mass of rags fastened with
cord on their feet, and usually the burnous when travelling.
Numerically the most important class of the native population are the
Arabs, who are, as their name implies, of Arabian origin, and date back
from the Arab occupation of the country in the 12th century. They took
possession of the most accessible portions, and drove the original owners, the
Berbers, into their mountain fastnesses.
At the present day they are far less advanced than the Kabyles ; they
retain the habits, ideas, and nomadic life of the most primitive times, and
if they have emerged from barbarism, they have certainly not attained
civilisation.
They are divided into tribes, some of which are of ancient origin, but many
are of a much more recent date, and some are simply aggregations of groups,
Tntrod. § 5. population and races 9
as natural as possilile, niadc l)y tlic Frencli to facilitate the operations of the
Bureau Arctic.
Each tribe is comniandcil l)y a Kaid, wiiose duty is to exercise surveillance
over it, carry out the orders of the French authorities, arrest malefactors, and
collect taxes, for which he receives a certain percentage ; he listens to all com-
plaints, and either himself redresses the aggrieved or submits the case to the
administrator of his circle. He is responsible for the good order and loyal
conduct of his tribe. These Kaids are always nominated by the Frencli,
and are usually chosen from the most influential families. Thus, in time of
])eace, they greatly aid the French authorities, though tliey arc dangerous to
a corresponding degree in time of war or insurrection. Attempts have been
made to place men of inferior birth, but of approved fidelity, in these posts,
but tlie experiment has never succeeded ; the moment an insurrection breaks
out, their power is defied, and whether the great families are in office or not,
if they rebel, the tribe is sure to follow them.
The tribes are divided into a greater or less number of Ferkats or sections,
according to their importance, each of wliich is administered by a Shcikli.
These are all under the orders of the Kaid, who has a lieutenant or Khalifa to
aid him.
The Ferkat, again, is composed of several Dollars, composed of the tents
of a certain number of persons more or less nearly related to each other. The
Ferkat is a political or artificial group, the Doiiar is essentially a family one.
The union of several tribes is called a Baeh Afihalil; the Bach AgJia being
the highest native dignity conferred by the French. These, however, are
being suppressed as vacancies occur.
Justice is administered among the Arabs by Cadis, who have districts con-
taining two to four tribes, and who perform their functions under the surveil-
lance of the Bureaux Arahes in military territory, or of the Administrator
where civil jurisdiction prevails.
The Arabs are essentially a nomade race, living in tents, wliiili they change
from place to place as the pasturage around them is consumed. They are not
fond of hard work, and tlie men at least do not engage in industrial jiursuits ;
agriculture is the labour they prefer to all other. Tlie theft of a plough is
sacrilege, the manufacture of one a pious work.
Tlie nomade existence is not without its advantages among a people so
primitive and so filthy in their habits. The moving about their flocks from
place to place serves to manure the ground, and prevent its utter exhaustion ;
and where men and animals all live together, the constant striking and pitch-
ing of their tents conduces to cleanliness and to the destruction of a portion
at least of the vermin with which they are infested.
The land tenure in Algeria has hitherto been such as to prevent the pur-
chase of it by intending colonists. It was divided into four categories : —
Beylick ; the undoubte<l jiropcrty of tlie State at the time of the conciuest.
Azcl ; belonging also to the State, but let to natives from a more or less
remote period.
Mclk ; freehold, possesseil liy private jiersons with regular titles.
Arch or Sahrghu ; land not subdivided into small holdings, ])ut belonging
10 §5. rorULATION AND RACES Alrjeria
ill common to a tribe. Tims, tliouf^h a tribe of a Imiidreil people bail a tboii-
saiul acres of land, and eacb would possess ten, tbey bad no particular ten,
and niiglit cultivate tbeir pro])ortion one year in tlic cast and anotlicr in tbe
west of tbe allotment. In many tribes the chiefs of the Douars liold in
hereditary usufruct a great proportion of the land where tbey are settled.
These allotments are called Mrchtas, and arc subdivided amongst Khatats, who,
as tbeir name implies, receive as their profit one-fifth of tbe crop. This col-
lective possession of the soil has tbe effect of strengthening the tribal bonds
under the power of its chief, but it prevents good cultivation or any hope
of increased civilisation amongst the Arabs. They cannot be expected to
spend more money or labour than is absolutely necessary in tilling lands from
which they may be removed next year. Tbey cannot plant trees or build
permanent houses, without a certainty of being allowed to enjoy the fi'uit of
their labour.
To remedy this evil, a most important law was passed on the 26th of July
1873, constituting individual property amongst the Arab tribes (it had already
existed in Kabylia), and enabling each individual to sell the portion of com-
mon land to which he may be personally entitled ; but the application of
the law is fraught with numerous difficulties, and it has made but little
progress.
The female in Arab society occupies a situation similar to what she fills
in all Mohammedan countries ; amongst tbe rich she is the slave of her lord's
pleasure, amongst the poor she is tbe household drudge, and the manufacturer
of almost everything required in daily use.
The national food of the Arabs (and indeed of the Kabyles too, under the
name of schsou) is couscous or tdam. This is simply tbe semolina of hard wheat
granulated by a peculiar j^rocess, which is one of the special accomplishments
of the women. It is placed in a perforated dish, and cooked by the steam
ascending from another vessel below it, containing water, meat, vegetables,
and aromatic plants, which are subsequently eaten with it. Very frequently
the dish is eaten without meat, but with an extra allowance of butter, red
pepper, tomatoes, etc. Milk is drunk at almost every meal, sometimes fresh,
more frequently sour and curdled. In the larger towns, tbe Arab bread made
in tbe shape of round cake is excellent, but amongst the tribes it is by no
means appetising ; it is usually made of half-ground Hour, sometimes of vetch,
Indian corn, or other grain.
The bead of the Arab is shaven except for a tuft of hair at the back, by
which he hopes to be drawn into paradise, and is always covered with the
Jtaik, bound round with cords of camel's hair and falling round the back
and sides of his head and under the chin. He wears the white burnous, and
occasionally a coloured one over it, slippers on his feet, or sometimes high red
leather boots, and bare legs.
Moors. — The term Moor, as used at the present da}', is one of European
invention, and has no Arabic' equivalent. It can have no other signification
than that of a native of Mauritania, and as such could not properly be applied
to the Arabs who overran the country and invaded Spain. The nearest Arabic
equivalent to it is Hadar, applied to those of Arabic descent who liave for
Iiifrod. § 5. roruLATiON and uaces 11
generations lived in houses and towns, in contradistinction to the nouiades
wlio dwell in tents. In this sense the term Moor is nsed by tlie French, and
includes all Arabs who lead a settled life, and occupy themselves in com-
mercial pursuits rather than in agriculture. They are generally liandsome,
with oval pale faces, aquiline noses, and large dark eyes, and have rather
an effeminate appearance. In intercourse with strangers they are polite and
courteous ; and in character, lazy and indolent to excess. They have very
little occupation, being principally employed in embroidery, weaving, distil-
ling perfumes, and attending to their bazaars.
The Moor's dress is conspicuous for its bright colours : it consists of a
waistcoat and jacket, generally of silk, and ornamented with braid, and the
liurnous ; the head, in the case of the younger men, is covered with the fez
only, but this is supplemented in the elder by a turban. They wear volu-
minous trousers — not divided — of linen or of some soft woollen material extend-
ing below the knee, and slippers. Their women, when seen out of doors, are
attired in a creamy white haik reaching below the knee, full white linen
trousers fiistened at the ankle, and slipi>ers. Their heads and faces are covered,
the eyes only being visible.
The Turks and Koulouglis. — The latter is the name by which the
children of Turkish fathers and iloorish or slave mothers were known. The
greater number of the Turks were sent back by the French on taking pos-
session of Algeria, and their descendants have got mixed up in the general
population, so that these races no longer exist in Algeria.
The Jews are said to have established themselves on these shores after
the destruction of Jerusalem, but it is more probable that they did so on their
lianishment from Italy in 1342, and from various other countries during the
following thirty years. Under the Turkish government they were permitted
the free exercise of their religion, but were exposed to every species of in-
dignity, and arbitrarily condemned to torture and death on the slightest
provocation.
They are here much the same as in other parts of the world, the apparent
aim of their existence being money-getting. The females, when young, are
remarkable for their beauty ; but the men, although possessing handsome
features, have not a prepossessing expression of countenance.
The elder members of the community still retain the native dress, the
women wearing a straight silk gown and silk handkerchief bound tightly
round the head, but the rising generation have adojited European costume,
since a decree of the Government of the National Defence in 1871 declared
them French citizens.
I'csiiles the above other races may be seen in Algiers — amongst them
the Beni M'zab, a dark-skinned peojjle from the Sahara, south of El-Aghouat.
They belong to the Ibadhi sect, the most distinguished member of which is
the Sultan of Zanzibar. Their women never leave their native oases. They
wear an easily -distinguished, sleeveless garment of many colours, and arc
generally employed as butchers, sellers of fruit, vegetaldes, charcoal, etc. The
Negroes are descendants of former slaves ; they whitewash houses, and tlnir
women are sellers of bread ; they are generally dressed in checked blue and
12 § 7. fllONKRAI, DE.SCRirTTON OF AT/iERTA AND TUNIS AUjeria
white (lu.stcr-inalcrial, aiid are eoiisiiicuous for their ugliness. Tiie Biskris
conic from the nciglil)oui'liood of IJiskra, and are einploj-ed as water-carriers,
swee[)s, etc.
§ 6. Native Lan«uages.
The native languages of Algeria are a corrupt form of Arabic, spoken by
the Arabs, Mooi's and Jews ; and a dialect of the Berber used by the Kabylcs
and Cliawia.
Written Arabic is the same everywhere, but the vulgar Arabic of Algeria
is a patois contaminated by words and hybrid expressions borrowed from all
the languages of Europe, a relic of the now extinct lingua Franca, mixed with
others of Turkish and Berber origin, and simplified by the elimination of
certain of the more complex grammatical rules, such as the dual number, the
feminine of verbs and pronouns, etc.
Tlie Kabyle language, though undoubtedly a dialect of Berber, is by no
means a pure one ; it is greatly mixed with Arabic, and already many French
words have been introduced. It has no written character, and all the litera-
ture it possesses is transmitted orally. The Kabyles have also the peculiar
habit of employing conventional languages, similar to thieves' slang in England,
for the purpose of disguising their conversation in the presence of strangers.
Nearly every profession has one peculiar to itself.
§ 7. General Description of Algeria and Tunis.
This portion of North Africa, though still supposed to consist of two sepa-
rate countries, one a French colony and the other a protected state, may now
be treated as a whole, and the time is not f;ir distant when even the nominal
frontier will disappear, or at most exist as the limit between two departments
of the mother country.
Algeria is bounded on the W. by the Empire of Morocco : it is comprised
between long. T 20' AY. and 8° 35' E. ; and between 37° 5' and 32° 0' N. lat.
Its greatest length is about 620 miles ; its greatest breadth, 250 miles ; and
its area is calculated to be about 150,000 square miles.
This area, however, is merely a rough approximation to the truth, as the
Southern limit of the country has never been defined with any degree of
accuracy. The "Western boundary was fixed by the treaty with the Emperor
of Morocco of the 18th March 1845. The Oxied Kiss, opposite the Zaffarine
Islands, was accepted as a starting-point, instead of the Molouia, the ancient
Malua or Molocath, which from the remotest antiquity had been considered
as the boundary between Mauritania Casaricnsis and Tingitana, the present
Empire of Moi-occo, and which is only .separated from it by 12 kil. of sandy
beach. An opportunity was also lost of securing the Zaffarine Islands, which
were unoccupied at the time of the conquest, and which were taken possession
of by Spain only a few hours before a French expedition sent from Oran with
a similar object arrived at the spot. The actual French boundary runs from
the Kiss in a south-easterly direction as far as Ain Sfissifa, a little south of the
33d parallel of latitude — a purely imaginary line. The scientific frontier,
Intvod. § 7. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 13
which the French hope one day to attain, would start from the mouth of the
Molouia, follow the course of that river to the watershed of the country about
33° N. lat., and then continue along the course of the Oucd Ghcir, an import-
ant river, till its junction with the Zuuzfana, a little north of Ljli, between
the 30th and 31st parallels of latitude. The district thus gained would con-
tain the valuable strategic positions of Oujda and FUjuiij, and would be within
easy distance of the great oasis of Tajilalet.
The French Sahara contains the oases of the Oulctd Sidi Chcikh, the
Ksmifs, the Sou/, and lately the oases of the Bciii M'zah have been annexed.
Provinces. — Politically Algeria is divided into three provinces or depart-
ments — Algiers, Oran and Constantine. The first has 5 arrondissements —
Algiers, Jlilianah, Medea, Orleansville and Tiziouzou. Oran also has 5 — Oran,
Mostaganeni, Tlemcen, Sidi Bel Abbes, and Mascara. Constantine has 6 —
Constantine, BGue, Philippeville, Bougie, Guelma and Setif.
The Province of Constantine forms the eastern part of the colony, from the
border of Tunis on the east to the Province of Algiers on the west : it is sepa-
rated from the latter by a line from Cape Corbelin (Ras Bezerka) between Dellys
and Bougie, running southwards, by no means very straight or well defined.
This province contains the scantiest population of the three, but its soil is
the most fertile, its minerals the most abundant, its forests the most extensive,
and its climate the most varied. In extent it occ-upies more than half the
surface of Algeria, and its native population is much less nomade than that
of the two other [)rovinces. The Berbers of the Aures and Grand Kabylia
occupy permanent villages, comi)osed of stone houses, and are extremely
attached to tlieir native soils.
The Province of Oran occupies the western part of Algeria, and is con-
tiguous to the empire of Morocco. The area of such portions of it as are
capable of colonisation, including the Tell and part of the High Plateaux, i.s
about 38,200 S(piare kilometres, or nearly 9A millions of acres.
The distinguishing feature of the province is the very narrow extent of the
Tell, not exceeding on the average 80 kilometres.
The liills which run along the coast are not as a rule high. These are the
Ddhra, between Tenes and the Chelif ; Karkar, or the Mountain of Lions,
Ijetween Oran and Arzcu ; Mediouna, between Oran and the Tafna. The most
iniiiortant mountain in the interior is Djcbcl Ammcr, in tlie Sahara.
The principal rivers are the TdJ'iui, the Macla, the Si'j, the Ilabra, the
Mina, and the Chelif.
The country is rich, but much drier than the two other provinces ; con-
scfiucntly good harvests are rarer. It is full of mineral wealth and valuable
marbles, and is the chief place whence Alfa fibre is exported.
Tlie natural divisions of the country also are three, viz. the Tell, a strip
of undulating cultivated land extending from the sea-shore to a distance
varying from 50 to 100 miles inland ; the High Plateaux ; and the Desert of
Sahara. The course of the Atlas Mountains, wliich api>roacli within 30 miles
of the city of Algiers, is from S. E. to N.W'., their ridges sloping towards the
Mediterranean, and enclosing several ])lains, such as the Metidja, lying
between Algiers and Blitlali, that of the Chelif, etc. Tliey have a course
14 § 7. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Alfjerin
of about 1500 miles, from Cai)C Nun, on tlio Atlantic Ocean, to wliicli
tliey give its name, to Cape ]5on, in Tunis. In Morocco they rise in some
places above tlio line of perpetual snow, the highest of them being estimated
at from 11,000 to 12,000 feet. The Atlas range is not conspicuous for lofty
lieaks like the Alps, most of their summits being rounded.^
The following are the highest points throughout the colony of Algeria : —
Chellia, in the Aures range .... 7,611 ft.
Tamghout Lalla Khadidja, Djurdj lira range . 7,542 ,,
Djebel Ksel, in the Sahara .... 6,594 ,,
Djebel Touilet Makna, in Djebel Amour . 6,561 ,,
Kef Sidi Omar, in Ouarseusis . . . 6,500 ,,
Babor, in the Kabylia of Bougie . . . 6,447 ,,
Ta Babort, contiguous to it .... 6,465 ,,
Toumzait, near Tlem^en .... 6,018 ,,
Dira, near Aumale ..... 5,934 ,,
Zakkar, near Milianah 5,184 ,,
Edough, near Bone 3,294 ,,
The hydrographical system of Algeria is by no means so simple as in
other countries, where a system of rivers restores to the sea the water which
the sun has taken from it. Here a very small portion of the country is subject
to the ordinary laws ; in the rest the waters either return to the clouds without
passing through the sea, or circulate in vast subterrauean lakes.
The watershed of the Tell is perfectly regular ; the sources of the principal
streams are situated high up, either on its southern border or on the first
terraces of the High Plateaux, and, in spite of the meauderiugs, often necessi-
tated by the nature of the ground, they are generally short. The Chelif
alone has a length of 244 miles, the next most considerable are the Mafrag
and Seybouse, the Oued el-Kebir, the Makta and the Kammel, which during
flood -time discolour the water for several miles at sea, and have not tho
strength in summer to force themselves a passage through the banks of sand
accumulated in their estuaries by the currents along the coast.
Alluvial plains of any considerable extent are rare in Algeria ; they do
not form, as elsewhere, in the estuary of a large river. Parallel to the sea,
they stretch between the foot of the mountains and the isolated groups of
hills, once probably islands, such as those at La Calle to the north of the
plain of Tarf, Edough iu the plain of Bone, the Sahel at Algiers, and the
mountain of Lions in the plain of Oran. Rivers traverse these without
draining them, and any depressions in their surface are occupied by marshes
and shallow lakes, either fresh or salt. The lakes of Oubeira and Tonegue
near La Calle are sheets of fresh water, as were those of Oued el-Maiz in. the
l)lain of Bone, and Lake Halloula iu the Metidja, now drj*.
The most interesting part of the Tell is the great mountain range inhabited
by the Kabyles ; this may be divided into two very distinct portions, the first
comprising the lower part of the Oued es-Sahel, and which may be called the
Kabylia of Bougie ; the second, the Kabylia of Djurdjura, which bounds the
1 For altitudes in Algeria see MacCarthy, " L'Annee Geograpliique," 1872, p. 76.
Inlri)d. § 7. GENKUAf. DESCUU'TK^N OV ALOEIUA AND TUNIS 15
fuimer on the west, and which is separated from it by tiie ran|^e wliose
majestic peaks, covered witli snow during six montlis in the year, form such
conspicuous objects in tlie landscape seen from Algiers. It extends as far
west as the Col des Beni-Aicha, or Menerville, 34 miles from Algiers.
Both speak the same language, a dialect of Berber, build villages, cultivate
the olive and fig trees, and have many customs in common ; nevertheless they
have a totally different administration. The Kabylia of Bougie, like all the
other valleys, has been subject to frequent invasions. The Turks, who suli-
stituted their rule for the ancient government of the country, introduced the
system of great commandments, and imposed upon the vanfjuished, hitherto
governed by their own customs, the orthodox jurisdiction of the Kadis.
The Kabylia of Djurdjura, bristling with savage and rugged mountains,
liad never before 1857 abdicated its independence. Entreiiclied in their
villages, perched on the crests of almost inaccessible mountains, its in-
liabitants saw every attempt at invasion arrested at their feet, in the valleys
of the Sebaou and Issers, unable to penetrate their country. The French
conquest respected their institutions, which were of a democratic nature ;
each village, though attached to its tribe by the bonds of a common origin,
preserved its entire liberty of action, and formed a sort of political and
administrative microcosm. In the village the power lay in the hands of all ;
tlic Djciiuia (asseml)ly) met once a week, and was composed of all men
capalile of bearing arms. It deliberated under the presidency of an Amin,
elected every year by itself; it took cognisance of all (piestions, was sovereign
judge, and enforced its own decisions.
Here, as amongst all P>erl)er nations, were developed the institutions of
Sofs (leagues), which divided each village, each tribe, and even each con-
federation. The Sofs do not represent any political party, like the majority
and minority in a European nation. They do not originate in any theoretic
ideas, and have not for their object the maintenance or overthrow of any
particular form of government. They had their origin in the necessity for
protection, and constituted before the conquest a mutual association, destined
to cause the rights of an oppressed majority to be respected by a powerful and
overbearing minoiity. The Suf lent its aid to such of its members as found
themselves the victims of injustice ; and if it could not obtain reparation or
a peaceful settlement of the disimtc, had recourse to force. Civil war broke
out, and spread from village to village, and from tribe to tribe, and did not
ordinarily stop without the intervention of one of the Marabouts. These arc
descendants of rcjiuted saints, and owed to their origin and their neutrality
an iiilluence which they employed in re-establishing peace.
The French concpiest, in substituting a regular power for the irregular
action of these parties, and in repressing the api)eal to arms, destroyed at a
single blow the power of the Sofs and the influence of the JIarabouts, already
discredited by the very fact of the conquest. They had preached the Holy
War, and promised victory in the name of the saints interred in their mount-
ains, whose inlluence was to a great extent the cause of their own prestige.
In the day of battle the most ardent of these Marabouts were compelled to
llee the infidel invaded with sacrilegious foot their most venerated shrines,
IG § 7. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Ahjeria
tlioir powerlessncss was evident, and their influence disappeared. The reh'gious
confraternities, and especially that of Sidi Jlohammed ben Abd-er-Rahnian
15ou-Koberain (he who has two tombs), began to exercise the power which
the Marabouts had lost. The partisans of Kabyle independence, and the dis-
contented of all classes, habituated to the strife oi Sofs, and searching a new
opening for their energy, rallied round an institution which flattered their
jiride by making them the equals of the Marabouts, and permitted them to
ris« to the highest grades despite their ignorance and obscure birth. The
Marabouts constituted a caste, an aristocracy, based on the prestige of an
e.xtinct power. The order of Sidi -Mohammed, essentially of a levelling
character, was admirably adapted to suit the democratic spirit of the Kabyles ;
it was, moreover, a national order, as the founder was born a century ago in
their own mountains. The statutes of the order are cleverly framed to
impose upon the brethren {khouan) the most absolute obedience, to surround
them with mysticism, and to make them the devoted instruments of their
chief. Soon the affiliated began to be counted by thousands in both sections
of Kabylia, especially in the Oued es-Sahel, where, previous to the insurrec-
tion of 1871, dwelt the Sheikh el-Haddad, an old man, eighty-five years of
age, almost paralysed, but possessing an unbounded influence over his
followers.
This society was the more dangerous to the French, as its members,
blindly obedient, could be excited to rebellion in a moment, without allowing
the slightest precursory sign to reveal the danger, a result which actually
happened during the insurrection of 1871.
That insurrection induced considerable modification in the ancient organi-
sation of the Kabyle tribes, and freed the French from the engagements which
they had contracted at the conquest of Kabylia to respect the laws and customs
of the people. The base of that organisation was the village, or cluster of
villages, which had a sovereign djemaa, under the presidency of an amm,
elected by themselves ; the union of several such communes formed the tribe,
at the head of which was an Amin-el-Oumena, elected by the a))ii7is. The
new organisation destroys the power of the djemaa and substitutes an amin
ajipointed by the French for one elected by the djemaa. It replaces the tribe
by the Section, composed of several tribes, and places the whole under the
civil authorities and the common law.
The region of the High Plateaux extends longitudinally from E. to "NV.,
and is formed by vast plains separated by parallel ranges of mountains.
These terraces increase in height as they recede from the Tell, and again
decrease as they approach the Sahara, thus forming a double series of
gradients, of whicli the highest is 3000 or 3300 ft. above the level of the sea,
much higher indeed than the summit of the hills which bound it. The spurs
or projections from the mountains cut up each of these stages into a series
of basins like the Hodna, in which the dej^ressions are occupied by lakes,
generally salt, known by the name of Chotts or Scbkas. This region is subject
to alternations of intense cold and extreme heat ; rain-water is less copious
than in the Tell ; instead of sea-breezes, it receives the hot blast of the desert,
and it is entirely devoid of trees save on the south side of the high mountain
Introd. §7. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 17
ranges. During seasons of copious rain, however, anil in places capable of
irrigation, it produces abundant crops of cereals, but otherwise it presents
to the weary eye of the traveller an unbroken stretch of stunted scrub and
salsolaceous plants, on which browse the sheep and the camel, the wealth of
tlie wandering Arab.
Tlie disposition of the soil, and the existence of veins of permeable rock of
a concave form, gave rise to the sujtposition that there existed subterranean
sheets of water in several parts of the High Plateaux. Acting on this theory,
artesian wells were sunk ; and in many instances those brought to the surface
copious supplies of water, which here is verdure and life.
Regular as is the general character of the High Plateaux, they still ])rc-
sent several anomalies. On the southern border, the lower^teiTacc, instead of
forming a basin, presents here and there slopes, down which the water flows
to the north, and thus becomes the source of several rivers in the Tell.
Towards the centre the basin of Sersou, filled of old by a vast lake, the
traces of which are plainly visible, is now drained by the river Ouassel, which
has forced itself a passage near Bokhari, between the excavated plateau of
Sersou and the foot of the last mountains of the Tell. On quitting the High
Plateaux this river becomes the Chelif, the most important in Algeria.
Towards the south-east the basin which might have been expected to exist
is replaced by the immense mountain of Aurcs, of which the central peak
attains an altitude of 7611 ft. This protuberance takes the place of a depres-
sion ; and, instead of a salt lake, we find a mountain covered with cedars and
alpine vegetation. On the north the Aurcs has only moderate slopes,
which convey its waters into the Chotts of the neighbouring plateau.
Towards the south it is prolonged almost in a straight line, and descends
like a precipitous wall to the Sahara, which stretches at an immense distance
below it.
In the west of Algeria the centre of the country bristles with mountains,
which adjoin the great snowy range of Deren. The southern slopes give rise
to immense rivers, amongst them the Oued Gheir, which the French expedi-
tion under General Wimptfen reached in the spring of 1870, and which, in
their admiration, the soldiers compared to the Meuse.
The Sahara. — Popular belief pictures the Sahara as an immense plain of
moving sand, dotted here and there with fertile oases ; and the old simile of
the panther's skin is still with many an article of faith. A few details are
necessary to dispel this poetical but false idea.
The desert in Algeria consists of two very distinct regions, which wc shall
call the Lower and the Upper Sahara : this a vast <lepression of sand and clay,
stretching on the east as far as the frontier of Tunis ; that a rocky plateau,
friMjucntly attaining considerable elevation, extending on the west to the
borders of Morocco.
The former comprises the Ziban, the Oued Gheir, the Souf, and the
Choucha of Ouargla. On the north it is boniuUd by the mo\intiin-range of
Aures and the foot of the mountains of Hodna and P.ou-Kahil ; on the east it
]>enetrates into the Regency of Tunis ; on the south it rises in a slight and
almost insensible slope towards the country of the Touarcgs ; and on the west
[/4 lijeHa.'\ C
18 § 7. GENERAL DESCRirTION OP ALfJERIA AND TUNIS Algeria
it stretches in a point along the Ouc.d Mia as far as Golea, after which it turns
towards the north along tlic jilateau of the ]5eni M'zab.
The Oufid Ghoir, the Souf, N'goui;a, and the greater part of the Ziban, liave
a less elevation than 360 feet ; liiskra and Ouargla are hardly higher, while the
Chott Melghigh and part of the Oued Gheir are below the level of the sea.
The Chott Melghigh, which occupies the bottom of the depression, is sunk
in the gypseous soil, and forms a sheet of water Salter than the sea. It is of
no great depth, and in summer, owing to evaporation, it is partly covered with
a thick and brilliant coating of crystals ; so that the eye can scarcely distin-
guish where the salt terminates and the water begins. The bottom is an aby.ss
of black and viscous mud, emitting an odour of garlic, due possibly to the
presence of bromides. Nevertheless it is not without veins of more solid
ground, forming natural causeways, on which the people of the country do not
hesitate to trust themselves.
The rivers of the Auresic system, essentially torrential in the mountains
when confined within steep and narrow gorges, serve to irrigate the oases,
where their waters are retained and absorbed by means of dams. That which
percolates through these and forms streams lower down their courses is again
absorbed by the SaJdas or canals of irrigation. It is only after the copious
rains of winter, and the melting of the snow in the mountains, that their beds
are filled, and their waters reach the Chott.
The smaller springs and streams which have their origin at the foot of the
mountains are always absorbed by the oases or by the cereals which the
inhabitants of the Ziban cultivate wherever a thread of the precious liquid is
found.
On the west the Oued Djedi joins the Chott ; it rises on the southern
slopes of Jebel Amour, fertilises the oases of El-Aghouat, and, skirting the
plateaux of the higher Sahara, traverses the lower Sahara from west to east.
It is only in the upper part of its course that this Oued is a permanent
stream ; lower down its water is to a great extent dried up by the solar ra3's
or absorbed by barrages ; the rest disappears in the permeable strata, or filters
through the sand and flows along the clayey bottom which underlies it.
Like the rivers of the Aures, but even more rarely than these, its course
is only filled by the melting of the snows, or during the heavy rains on the
High Plateaux.
The foregoing remarks apply equally to the other rivers which, rising in
the eastern part of the higher Sahara, flow towards the region of N'gou^a.
In the south the Oued Mia presents always the appearance of a dry water-
course, below the sand of which water flows along an impermeable bed. The
same may be said of the Oued Gghaghar, whose source, never yet visited by
Europeans, is in the Touareg country.
From time immemorial artesian wells have existed here, and have every-
where spread with their waters life and wealth.
The water, which in the lowest part of the depression is found at a depth
of 20 metres, is, at the edges of the basin, 50, (30, or 100 metres from the
surface of the soil.
Its existence, however, is not only indicated by artesian wells ; through-
Introd. § 7. general description op Algeria and tunis 19
ont the whole extent of the Oiied Gheir, and even to the south of it, depres-
sions are found full of water, which appear to be, as it were, the spiracles of
the subterranean lake ; they are styled by the natives bahr (sea) ; the French
call them cfouffrcs.
In the Souf the water circulates close to the surface of the soil, enclosed
in a sandy substratum, which is concealed by a bed, more or less thick, of
sulphate of lime, crystallised on tlie upper surface and amorphous in the
lower part. One has only to iieuetratc tliis layer of gypsum to create a
well.
When it is intended to plant a date-grove, the industrious Sonafn remove
the entire crust of gypsum, and plant their palms in the aquiferous sand
beneath. Their green summits rise above the plain around, thus forming
orchards excavated like ants' nests, sometimes 8 metres below the level of the
ground.
This complicated distribution of water in the lower Sahara gives rise to
the different kinds of oases.
Running streams, dammed by barrages and distributed in canals, make
the river oases (Ziban).
Wat(^r absorbed by ]>ermeable strata constitutes (1) the oases with ordinary
wells (Oulad Djellal, etc.) ; (2) oases with artesian wells (Tuggourt, N'gouea,
Ouargla, etc.) ; (3) the excavated oases (Souf).
Sometimes two systems are found united in the same place.
The higher Sahara extends from the western limits of the lower one to
within the frontiers of Morocco ; to the south it reaches beyond Goleah, and
on the north it is bounded by the last chains of the High Plateaux.
It is principally composed of rocky stepi)es, only the depressions between
which are filled with sand.
Towards the east descends almost perpendicularly from north to south a
large promontory which rises below El-Aghouat to nearly 2900 ft., and sinks
gradually towards Goleah, separated from the jdateau of Tademait by a sort of
isthmus 1200 ft. high. It is in this plateau that the Oued Mia and its
afiluents arise, which, in French territory at least, contain only slight infil-
trations of water under a sandy bed.
In the centre the rocky plateaux fall rather abruptlj'-, as far as the zone
of the Are(j, or country of sand-hills, occupying a depression, the bottom of
which is about 1200 ft. above the sea.
Finally, towards the extreme west, where the chains of the High Plateaux
descend lower, the Saharan plateaux also descend farther soutli, leaving
between them numerous valleys.
In each of these three divisions the water -.system is different. Tlie
eastern promontory, the crests of which are directed towards the west, sends
out no spurs towards the zone of the Airg ; but it is furrowed towards the
cast by immense ravines, of which the principal bear the naiues of Oued Ensa
and Oued M'zab. Rain seldom falls in the lower part ; and the .southern
cirvrisftrs are almost always deep ravines, without water or vegetjition. P'ven
in tlu! u|)per jiart it is only during severe storms, ami when more than
usually abundant snow has melted on the High Plateaux, that the waters
20 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Alfjeria
pouring on the Sahara unite in the deep defiles, forming a mighty wave,
vvliich during twenty-four or forty -eight hours precipitates itself into the
estuaries of the lower Sahara. When this torrent has passed, nothing remains
in its dry bed save a few pools where the gazelle drinks, and a slight subter-
ranean percolation which serves to supply the few wells at which the caravans
draw water.
These periodical inundations are quite inadequate to .supply the Beni
M'zab, who have established gardens in the very beds of the great ravines
which dominate their seven cities. In vain they treasure up a store in their
reservoirs ; they are obliged to have recourse to deep wells cut in the rock,
which collect the infiltration of water in the calcareous strata.
Above the promontory it is only El-Aghouat and Ain Madhi, situated in a
depression at the foot of the mountains, that can utilise almost at all seasons
of the year, by means of barrages or dams, the upper waters of the Oued Djedi,
which flow from east to west.
In the middle, Brezina and several oases placed at the very foot of the
mountain-range can also irrigate their date-groves with running water ; but
farther south the water flowing along the rocky plateaux encounters the
moving sands of the Areg, which arrest its course and cause pools or marshes
{Dhmja), neither usually very large nor very deep. These little Chotts present
the same phenomena as the greater depressions in the lower Sahara ; their
ancient banks, now quite dry, attesting a very marked decrease in the volume
of their waters.
Towards the east, on the other hand, where the mountains in the plateaux
rise to a greater height than 2900 ft., and present a vast surface, the ravines
are the beds of veritable rivers, which render abundant irrigation possible,
and, uniting in two principal streams, form the Oued Messaoud, which
descends southwards to an unknown distance.
Such is the upper Algerian Sahara, of which the greatest depression does
not descend to within 1300 ft. of the sea, while in the lower one there is not
a single point attaining that altitude. In the one the plateau is the prevail-
ing feature, in the other the depression ; here rocks abound, there they are
entirely absent. As to moving sand, which the Arabs compare to a net, it
occupies a sufficiently extensive zone in both regions ; but still it does not
cover one-third part of the Algerian Sahara.
§ 8. HisTOEiCAL Notice of Algeria and Tunis.
The ancient territorial distribution of the native races in North Africa
cannot be traced to a period much anterior to the Romans, as they were for
the most part nomades ; ancient geographers indeed divide them into certain
great masses, such as Lybians, Kumidians, Mauri, etc., but the limits of these
were very indeterminate, though roughly approximating to the more modern
divisions of the country.
The Phcenicians established on the sea -coast numerous cities, some of
which were commercial entrepots, others principalities founded by exiled
IntiOil. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 21
members of their community, all, however, fiiKliiig in commerce au iucx-
liaustible source of riches and prosperity.
The word Africa was at first apiilied by tlie Romans to that portion of it
with which they were best acquainted, the Jfriai. Propria, or Afriai Provinciu,
corresponding roughly to the Carthaginian territory erected into a Roman
province after the third Punic war, B.C. 146. It was subsequently extended
to the whole continent. The territorial subdivision of North Africa from
Egypt to the Atlantic varied considerably at different epochs. The most
eastern portion, the Cyreuaica, had its limits so clearly defined by nature that
it varied little except in its form of government. It remained a kingdom
till n.c. 74, when it became a Roman province. Then came tlic proconsular
province of Africa, which included the Syrtica Regio, or that part of the coast
from the Syrtis Major {Gulf of Sidra) and Syrtis Minor {Gulf of Gabcs) or
Tripolitana and Byzacena, the former representing the modern Tripoli, and
the latter, with Zeugitana and the territory of Carthage, corresponding to the
modern Regency of Tunis.
Then followed Numidia, corresponding to part of the French province of
Constautine contained between the Tusca or Oucd cz-zan and the Ampsaga or
Oucd cl-Kcbir.
From Numidia to the Atlantic the country was known generally as Mauri-
tania. About B.C. 46 it was divided into Mauritania Orientalis and Mauritania
Occidentalis, separated by the river Molochath (the modern Moidouia near
the frontier of Morocco). Subsequently, about A.D. 297, into Mauritania
Setifensis, from Numidia to Icosium [Ahjicrs) ; Mauritania Ca>sariensis,
thence to the Molochath, and JIauritania Tingitana ; corresponding roughly
to the French provinces of Algiers ami Oran, and the Empire of Morocco.
The interior region was divided into —
1. Lybia Deserta, comprising Phazania, tlie country south of the Cyrenaica
and Syrtica Regio.
2. Getulia to the south of Numidia and ]\Iauritania.
3. yEthopia and the Troglodyte south of all these.
The word Mauritania was derived from its inhabitants, the Maurusii or
Mauri, a branch of the great Berber nation, which extended from the Atlantic
Ocean to beyond the banks of the Nile. Many conjectures have been made as
to their origin. Sallust records that a great horde of Asiatics, led by Hercules,
crossed over from Spain, and, on landing, inverted their boats and used them
for houses, thus supplying the original model of the Numidian dwelling.
Procopius asserts that in his time two pillars existed at Tangiers containing
the record, "We fly from the robber Joshua, the son of Nun." The modem
word Zenata, applied to the jieople of Berber origin who occupy the region
between the desert and the High Plateaux, is merely the Arabic form of the
radical from which Canaanite is derived. Tlie Arabian geographers arc
unanimous in ascribing an Eastern origin to this people ; but one thing is
certain, that at a very early period tlie Phccniciaus fonned a number of
colonies along the coast, the most important of whicli was Carthage, which
created itself an imperishable name, and long disputed with Rome tho
government of the world.
22 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Algeria
Its oii<,'iii is very oljscurc, Init all tlic world knows' the beautil'ul fable of
Yirj^il, how Dido or Elissa, diiii<,dit('r of IJclus, kinj; of Tyre, escaped from tlie
power of her brother Pygimilioii with the treasures for which lie liad murdered
her husband ; and, with a band of noble Tyrians who sliared her flij,dit, liow
she touched at Cy^irus and carried off eighty maidens to be the wives of her
followers, and then landed at a spot on the coast of Africa, near wliich Tunis
and Utica [the ancient) were already built, marked out by nature as the
site of a mighty city ; how she entered into treaty with the natives, and
purchased from them as much land as could be covered by a bull's hide, but
craftily cut the hide into the thinnest of strips, and so enclosed a space of 22
stadia, on which she built her city, which retained its name of Byrsa {Bull's
hide) ; how the city grew by the influx of people from the neighbouring
country and by the adhesion of older Phrenician colonies, especially Utica ;
how its prosperity excited the envy of Hiarbus, king of the Lybians, who
offered Dido the choice of war or marriage, and how to avoid both alternatives
she stabbed herself ou a funeral pyre which she had erected, to the honour of
her husband's memory.
The introduction of ^neas into the story is a poetic license on the part of
Virgil, unwarranted by any authority in the original legend from which he
derived his information. The real derivation of the word Byrsa is from the
Phceuician word Bozra, a fortress ; and Carthage was merely one, though the
jiriucipal one, of many colonies founded by the Phoenicians, which itself
subsequently sent out other colonies westwards, and spread in every direction
the influence of its own high civilisation and commercial enterprise.
It is hopeless in such a work as this to attempt a detailed history of
Carthage and the Carthaginians, to follow Hanno (b.c. 446) in his voyage to
the Gulf of Guinea, Hamilcar (b.c. 481) in his disastrous expedition to Sicily,
or the invasion of Africa by Agathocles (b.c. 310-306).
The First Punic War was a contest between Carthage and Rome for the
possession of Sicily, and though virtually decided by the fall of Agrigentum
(B.C. 262), the great resources of Carthage prolonged it twenty-three years
later. It cost Carthage not only Sicily itself, but the dominion of the sea,
and placed Rome more on an equality with her as a naval power.
The Second Punic "War lasted from b.c. 218 to 201, and resulted in the
utter prostration of Carthage, the loss of her fleets and of her possessions out
of Africa.
A new and important State sprang up on the western confines of Carthage
under Roman auspices, governed by llasinissa, ever ready to pick a quarrel
with her, and give Rome a pretext for her destruction.
Masinissa was son of Gala, king of the Massyliaus, the easternmost of the
two great tribes into which the Numidia of that day was divided. At the
instigation of Carthage, liis father had declared war on Syphax, king of the
neighbouring tribe of Masa>ssylians, who had lately entered into an alliance
with Rome. Masinissa was appointed by his father to command the invading
1 As the travrfUer does not generally carry with him a library of reference, the writer
has not hesitated in this conn)ilation to borrow largely from Gibbon, Smith, and other
standard authorities.
Introd. § 8. historical noticI': of algkuia and tunis 23
force, witli wliicli lie totally defeated Sypliax. In n.c. 212 Masiiiissa was in
Spain supiioitinf; the Caitliaf,'inians with a body of Niunidian horse, and he
shared in the defeat of Hasdrubal liy Scipio at Silpia in n.c. 209.
After that battle he went over to the Romans, actnated, it is said, by
resentment against Hasdrubal, who having hrst betrothed to him liis beautiful
daughter Sophonisba, subsequently bestowed her hand upon Syphax, who
henceforth became a staunch ally of the Carthaginians.
After the death of Gala, and during the absence of Masinissa, the Massylian
kingdom had become a prey to civil dissensions, in which, however, Syphax
at first took little part ; he was even disposed to acijuiesce in the elevation of
his old rival Masinissa to the tlu'one, had not Hasdrubal warned him of the
danger of such a course. But he yielded to the suggestion of the Carthaginian
general, and asseml)led a large army, with which he invaded the territories
of Masinissa, defeated him in a pitched battle, m.'\de himself master of the
whole country, and established himself at the cajiital of Numidia, Cirta, the
modern Constantine.
Masinissa now commenced a predatory warfare against his rival, in which
lie gained occasional advantages, and was still able to maintain himself in
t lie field until the landing of Scipio in Africa, li.c. 204. Syjihax supported
Hasdrubal with an army of 50,000 foot and 10,000 hoi-se, with which he
assisted at the siege of Utica. The whole of the Nuniidian and Carthaginian
armies, however, were overthrown and destroyed by the Koman general, and
Syphax himself and a few followers barely succeeded in escaping to Numidia,
where, shortly afterwards, he full into the hands of the Komans, and subse-
i[uently graced the triumph of his conqueror previous to ending his days in
prison.
ilasinissa, who had allied himself to Scipio, and had been instrumental
in defeating his rival, obtained possession both of Cirta and Sophonisba.
Scipio, however, demanded her as a prisoner of the Roman senate, whereujion
Masinissa sent her a cup of poison, which she at once drank, merely remark-
ing that she would have died with more honour had she not wedded at her
funeral.
To console Masinissa for his loss, and to recompense him for his services,
Scipio conferred on him the title and insignia of royalty, and the possession
of his hereditary dominions, which honours were immediately ratified by the
senate.
About B.C. 203 Hannibal returned to Africa after his extraordinary cam-
]iaign of fifteen years in Italy. He landed at Leptis, whence lie proceeded to
lladrumetum (Sicsa). Masinissa hastened to the support of his benefactor
Scifiio, and a decisive action was fought at a jilace called Naragara, not far
from the city of Zama. Hannibal dis[)layed all the qualities of a consummate
general, but his elephants, of which he had great numbers, were rendered use-
less by the skilful management of Scipio, and the battle ended in his com-
pk'le di'feat ; lie himself with iliMiciiUy cscajied tin; pursuit of Masinissa, and
retired to Hadrumetum.
All hoiie of resistance was now at an end, and he was one of the first to
urge the necessity for peace. A treaty was concluded by which ho saw the
24 § 8. iriSTOUICAL NOTICE OF ALGKIUA AND TUNIS Ahj'iricl
whole imrposc of his life frustrated, and Carthage effectually liuiiilil<-il before
licr irresistible "rival. Even his wise administration could not save her ; lie
was deiiouuced by the opposite faction, proscribed by Rome, and forced to fly
to the court of Antiochus the Great, in Armenia, in B.C. 195, whereupon his
party became extinct, and the influence of Rome supreme, even within the
State.
Third Punic War. — Half a century passed without any further rupture
between the two republics, but the elder Cato never ceased to denounce Car-
thage, and to represent her destruction as necessaiy to the permanence of the
Roman power. His inveterate hatred proved triumphant, and war was
declared. The Carthaginians were divided by factions and intestine strife,
and in no condition to withstand the invaders. Still, for a time, Carthage
held out. But when (B.C. 146) Emelianus Scipio, the second Africanus, came
to direct the siege, operations were conducted with renewed vigour. Little
by little the vast city fell into his hands, till at last only the great temple of
Esculapius remained to be taken. It was defended by Asdrubal, with whom
were about 900 followers. Asdrubal in the basest manner purchased personal
safety by deserting his post and surrendering himself to Scipio. But his
wife and children, and the greater number of the defenders, scornfully refused
to follow his example, and preferred setting fire to the building and perishing
in the flames.
Scipio destroyed the ports and the fortifications of Carthage ; some of the
public buildings were burned by the inhabitants themselves ; but it is probable
that the destruction of the city was more apparent than real, and that, despite
of the heavy curses pronounced on any who might attempt to rebuild it, it
began to rise, to a certain extent, from its ruins, even before the time of the
Gracchi (b.c. 116).
The whole coast of Africa, however, from Egypt to the Atlantic, became
subject to the Romans. Carthage was stripped of her glory, and many of her
inhabitants were driven elsewhere. The country generally fell back under
the rule of its native governors, and Masinissa made Cirta his royal residence.
He died in B.C. 148, leaving his throne to his son Micipsa.
In B.C. 116 a Roman Colony was established at Carthage by Caius Gracchus.
It continued in a languishing condition till the time of Julius Cajsar and
Augustus, when the city was rebuilt under the name of Colonia Carthago, and
it continued the first city in Africa till a comparatively modern period. As
the senate abstained from all endeavours to extend its conquests in Africa,
the country enjoyed uninterrupted peace till the death of Micipsa in B.C. 118.
He divided the kingdoni between his two sons, Adherbal and Hiempsal,
and his nephew Jugurtha. The last had already distinguished himself in
Spain, under Scipio Africanus Minor, and was an ally of Rome ; but on his
having deposed and assassinated both his cousins contrary to the orders of the
Senate, they declared war against him, B.C. 111. Albinus was first sent over
to Africa, but he was probably bribed, and certainly defeated, by Jugurtha, at
Suthul, and compelled to evacuate Numidia.
Q. Cajcilius Metellus was sent to succeed him as proconsul, B.C. 109. He
was a man of stainless integrity and high talents ; but though he compelled
lidivil. § 8. HI.STUlUCAL NOTICE OF ALGERIxV AND TUNIS 25
Jugiutlia to deliver up a considerablu <iuaiitity of treasure, arms, horses and
eleiiliants, he was powerless to obtain possession of his person. He followed
him to Thala, which stronghold he succeeded in taking after a siege of forty
(lays ; but Jugurtha succeeded in effecting his escape with i)art of his treasure,
while the Roman deserters in his army, with the remainder of it, shut them-
selves in the palace, which they set on fire, and perished in the flames.
Marius, the legate of Metellus, and chief leader of the popular party in
Home, was elected consul in B.C. 107, and charged with the conduct of the war
against Jugurtha. In the following year (n.f. lOG) Jugurtha was surrendered
to him by the treachery of Boccluis, king of JIauritania, and having subse-
(piently adorned his conqueror's triumph, he was thrust into prison, where he
died of starvation on the si.vth day.
After this the crown of Numidia was given to Juba, son of Hiempsal,
wliose reign was short and troubled. Africa had now become the stronghold
of the I'ompeian faction. Pompcy indeed was no more ; but his two sons were
here, Scipio, his father-in-law, Cato, Labienus, Afranius, and other devoted
adherents, who all united with Juba in continuing the conflict in IJarbary.
Ca>sar himself came to Africa for the purpose of finally subduing the
rompeian faction. His talents and good fortune produced their wonted
ellect. He landed at Hadrumetum {Sum) with a force of only 3000 foot and
150 horse. There he was joined by P. Sittius, a former accomplice of Catalinc,
who was well acquainted with the country and the native tribes. Having
failed to take this city, he marclied to Ruspina {Monmtir), and .shortly after
(i?.c. 47) ensued the great and decisive battle of Thapsus {lias Dimas), in
which the Tompcian i>arty was utterly defeated, with a loss of 10,000 men.
Ciesar then took Utica, wliere Cato, who commanded it, committed suicide.
Scipio also killed himself. Afranius was killed by Ca'sar'.s soldiers. Labienus,
Varus, and the two sons of I'ompey escaped into Si)ain. King Juba set out
for Zama with his friend Petreius. There he had collected all his household
and treasures, and hoped to perish with them ; but, being refused admittance,
ho and Petreius agreed to fight together, so tliat one at least might fall with
honour. Petreius was (piickly killed, ami Juba, having in vain essayed to
make away with himself, got a slave to despatch him.
Bocchus and Bogud, kings of Mauritania, who had alternatively fought
under the banner of the two great rivals, also lost their lives, and their domin-
ions, and tlius the whole of North Africa fell into the power, and became an
integral portion, of the Roman empire.
Numidia was i)laced (u.c. 46) under the government of Sallust, who plun-
dered tlie country in a merciless manner to enrich both himself and his jiatron,
but who did good work for posterity by collecting materials for his celebratcil
history of the Jugurtliine wars. Cirta, the capital, was made a colony to
recompense the partisans of I'ublins Sittius, who had rendered Ca'sar such
important services, ami it was named Cirta Sittianorum or Cirta Julia, which
names it retained until the beginning of the 4th century.
But though Africa was thus reduced to the condition of a Roman jiroviiue.
the emperor knew better than to confide the government of these turbulent
countries entirely to Roman oflicers.
2G §8. HISTOIUCAI> NOTICE OP ALGERIA AND TUNIS Alfjeria
The yoiiiij^ Julia had hceii carcrully eilncated at Jioiiic, wlicrc Ik; attained
a liiyh literary reputation. He is freiiuc^iitly cited by Pliny, wlio desci'ibes
iiini as more nicmoraljle for liis erudition than for the crown he wore. Plu-
tarch also calls him the greatest histoiian amongst kings.
In the year b.c. 26 Augustus, wishing to give to the j)eoi)le of the late
monarch a sovereign of their own race, fixed ujwn this son of Juba. He mar-
ried him to Selene, daughter of Anthony and Cleo])atra, and restored to him
the western portion of his father's dominions, tnisting to his thorough Roman
education to .secure his submission, and on the prestige of his race and name
to win the affections of the Numidian races, and to hasten their fusion with
tlie conquering nation.
He removed his cajiital to the ancient Phcenician city of lol, to which he
gave the name of Julia Ca;sarea.
He died in a.d. 19, leaving a son, Ptolemy, the last independent prince
of Mauritania, who was far from sharing the high qualities of his father.
His reign was characterised by debauchery and misgovernment, and the
Mauritanians were not slow to rise in revolt under the leadership of Tacfarinus.
This war lasted for seven years, shortly after which Tiberius died, and was
succeeded by Caligula, who summoned Ptolemy to Rome, and, after having
received him with great honour, caused him to be killed, as he thought that
the splendour of his attire excited unduly the attention of the spectators. It
is more likely that he desired to appropriate the wealth that Ptolemy was
known to have accumulated. This murder was followed by a serious revolu-
tion in Mauritania, which lasted several years.
The whole country, which heretofore had comprised sundry kingdoms,
states, and principalities, henceforth became provinces of the Roman Empire
governed by prtetors and proconsuls, who seemed to have farmed it very much
for their own benefit, and to have submitted the inhabitants to the utmost
amount of exaction which they were able to bear.
Sometimes their complaints reached the senate, as in the case of the pro-
consul Marius Priscus and his lieutenant Hostilius Firmiiius, in the reign of
Trajan, who were prosecuted before the Emperor himself by Tacitus and Pliny
the younger, and condemned to exile.
The next 300 years were the most prosperous in the history of Xorth
Africa, and it is to this epoch that most of the splendid remains still existing
in Algeria and Tunis belong. The African provinces were most important to
the empire, which drew from them its richest stores, and had little to pay for
defence. The details, however, which have reached us of this epoch are of
tlie most meagre description. Insurrections were of frequent occurrence, and
the peace of the countr}'' was only the more troubled by the Introduction of
Christianity, the lawless and hot-blooded natives ranging themselves on the
side of the various sects, and constantly resorting to violence to maintain their
views. Thus, though they contributed some shining names to the army of
martyrs, they helped far more to swell the bauds of the persecutors.
One of the insurrections amongst the native tribes was suppressed by
Hadrian in person (122) when he came to visit this portion of his dominions.
He made a second visit to Africa three years later (125), when he bestowed
Introd. § 8. HI8T01UCAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 27
many iiiiiiortaut bunelits on tlie ]>roviucf, such as tliu aiiuuiluct of Caitliaj;p,
and the great road thence to Thevcste.
The Moors continued to trouble the public peace in the rei<;n of Antoninus,
who drove them into the Atlas, and compelled them to sue for peace (13s).
15ut they broke out once more under Marcus Aurelius, and actually pushed
their incursions across the Mediterranean into Spain (170).
On the accession of Septimius Sevcrus (173), himself an African, a native
of Leptis, he sent troops over to prevent his rival Pesceniiius Niger from taking
possession of the proconsular i)rovince. Macrinus, who attained the purple
by the murder of Caracalla (217), was a native of Mauritania Qusariensis.
Elagabalus, who succeeded him (221), was a son of Sextus Varius Marcellus,
formerly governor of Numidia, and commandant of tlie Third Legion, Augusta,
at Lambessa. It appears as if Africa had the privilege at this time of confer-
ring the puiple, if not on its actual children, at least on those who made it
the country of their adoption. The case of the Gordians offered a striking
example of this.
Gordian the elder, who in 229 had been the colleague of Alexander Severus
in his third consulate, was sent in the following year (230) by the Senate as
proconsul to Africa, and his son was subseiiuently appointed, by the same body,
bis lieutenant. Several years passed in peace under his government, when the
murder of Alexamler Severus (235) and the accession of the brutal Maximinus
completely changed tlie aspect of the country.
A more rigorous procurator sent by him was killed by tlie Africans, who
compelled Gordianus to accept the pi:rple, which he did at Thysdrus in Feb-
ruary 238, he being then more than 80 years of age. His son was also declared
emperor conjointly with him, and as soon as they had appeased the first
tumult of election, they removed their court to Carthage, and sent a deputa-
tion to Rome to solicit the approbation of the senate. This body warmly
espoused their cause, but before their confirmation was known in Africa the
Gordians were no more.
Ca{telianus, governor of Mauritania, with a small force of veterans, and
a great host of barbarians, marched upon Carthage. The younger Gordian
sallied out to meet him ; but his forces were ijuite undisciplined, and his
valour only served to obtain for him an honourable death on the field of
battle. His aged father, whose reign had not exceeded 36 days, put himself
to death on the first news of the defeat (March 238), whereuj)on Carthage
opened its gates to the conijueror. The death of Maximin took place in the
same year. Maximus and Iklbinus wore very soon after slain by the soldiery,
and the grandson of the aged Gordian was carried to the camp, and saluted as
Emperor. He in his turn was assassinated by his army in Jlesopotaniia before
he had attained the age of 19 years, in March 214.
Gibbon observes : " While the Roman Empire was invaded by open
violence or undermined by slow decay, a pure and humble religion gently
insinuated itself into the minds of men ; grew up in silence and obscurity,
derived new vigour from oi)position, and finally erected the triumi)haiit
bauner of the Cross on the ruins of the Cajiitol."
Nothing is certainly known of the African Church till the end of the lid
28 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGIORIA AND TUNIS Alfjuria
ceutuiy. Tliu oA cculury, however, was its time of greatest trial and glory.
Its lueuibers seemed endowed with the greatest fervour and devotion, and
I lie most extravagant honour was attached to the outward acts of martyrdom
and confessoi'sliip.
The names of 580 sees between Cyrene and the Atlantic have been handed
down to us by ecclesiastical historians, liut its greatest glory is to have
liroduced three men, Tertullian in the 2d century, Cyi)rian in the 3d, and
Augustine in the 4th.
The most celebrated martyr of the African Church was Cyprian, Ijishoj)
of Carthage, who was beheaded by order of the proconsul Galerius in 257.
In the year 296, under the government of Diocletian, Maxiniian, Galeriu.s,
and Constantius, the whole of Africa from the Nile to the Atlas was in arms.
A confederacy of five Moorish nations issued from their deserts to invade the
peaceful provinces. Maxiniian, in whose special charge Africa was, hastened
to the scene of insurrection, and the progress of his arms was rapid and
decisive. He vanquished the fiercest barbarians of Mauritania, and removed
them from their mountains, the reputed strength of which had inspired them
with a lawless confidence.
In the early part of the reign of Constantine arose the schism of the
Donatists, wdiich, though springing from small beginnings, grievously afflicted
both Church and State for upwards of a century.
Mensurius, Bishop of Carthage, dying in 311, the greater part of the
clergy and people chose in his place the Archdeacon Cpecilianus, who, with-
out waiting for the Numidian bishops, was at once consecrated by those of
Africa alone. The Numidian bishojis, who had always been present at the
consecration of a bishop of Carthage, were highly offended at being excluded
from the ceremony, and summoned Cmcilianus to appear before them to
answer for his conduct. On his refusal, they held a council, declared him
unworthy of the episcopal dignity, and chose Majorinus, his deacon, as his
successor in office.
The most violent of these Numidian bishops was Donatus, of Casre
NigiK, from whom some have supposed that the whole faction was named ;
but there was another prelate of the same name, who succeeded Majorinus at
Carthage, and received from his sect the name of Donatus the Great : hence
it has been a question from which of these the name was derived.
The controversy spread rapidly through all the provinces of North Africa,
which entered so zealously into the ecclesiastical w-ar that in most cities there
were two bishops, one at the head of Ca3cilianus's party, and the other
acknowledged by the followers of Majorinus.
The Donatists brought this controversy before the Emperor Constantine in
313. After three separate inquiries, the case was given against them, and the
emperor deprived the Donatists of their churches, and sent their seditious
bishops into banishment. They, however, resisted his decree, and retired in
large numbers to the Atlas Mountains. In 348 they defeated an army sent
for their forcible conversion, and remained for a century the scourge of the
neighbouring provinces, being urged by frantic fanaticism to constant revolts
and ravages.
Introd. § 8. historical notice of aloeria and tunis 29
In 326, when the wliole empire was united under the sceptre of Constantino,
that monarch constituted four pra-torial prefectures, and Africa was compriseil,
with Italy and tlie intermediate islands, as one of these great territorial
divisions. In the distribution which he made of his empire in 335, Africa
was given to Constans, together with Italy and lUyria.
Vakntinian succeeded to the empire in 364, and apportioned the East to
his brother Valens, reserving the West to himself. Africa was at this time in
a deplorable condition of anarchy, aggravated l)y the feebleness and rapacity
of its governor, the Count Komanus. Leptis and Tripoli were sacked by tho
Asturians, and Ruricius, the governor of the latter city, was executed on a
false charge at Setifis.
The insurrection of Firmus, chief of one of the most influential tribes of
the Mauri, caused the emperor to despatch Count Theodosius for its repression
in 369. Komanus was sent in disgrace to Rome, but it was not till after a
long and harassing series of campaigns that Firmus, driven to extremity,
committed suicide, and Theodosius returned in triumph to Setifis.
On the death of Valentinian, on the 17th Xovember 375, the sceptre of
the West remained in tlie hands of his son Gratian, with whom his brother
Valentinian II. was associated as colleague. Africa was apportioned to the
latter, a child of four years of age. l^Iaximus obtained the throne by putting
(Jratian to death in 383, and in 388 was recognised in Africa, which he
exhausted by his exactions. Theodosius, who had succeeded Valens in the
East, put him to death, and eventually reunited the whole empire under his
sceptre, in which condition it remained till his death in 395, when it was
divided between his two sons, of whom the younger one, Honorius, became
the Emperor of the West, and of Africa, under the tutelage of the celebrated
Vandal captain, Stilicho.
At this time Gildon was militarj' governor of Africa, which had groaned
under his yoke for twelve years ; not daring to declare himself actually
independent, he attempted to ell'ect the same result by placing himself undir
the protection of the Empire of the East (397) ; but Stilicho was not of a
character to suller this disguised defection, and having in his employ an
irreconcilable enemy of Gildon in his brother Mascezel, whose children the
former had reccntl}^ put to death, he entrusted to him the command of a body
of troops, which landed in Africa, attacked Gildon between Theveste (Tcicssa)
and Ammaedara (Hydra), and utterly defeated him. Gildon, abandoned by
his followers, embarked on board a vessel to seek a refuge in the East, but
being driven l)y contrary winds into the harbour of Tabarca, he was taken
jirisoner, and put an end to his life by hanging himself in 398.
Africa returned to its allegiance to Honorius, and the post which Gildon
had occupied of Magiskr ulriitxqttc militia; per Africam was suppressed, and
a new system of separate civil and military government was organised.
Hut the period was passed when administrative reforms could have any
effect, and the country, weakened by so many disturbances between op]iosing
sects and races, became an easy prey to the enemies now pressing the Koman
Empire on every side. The o))]iortunity for invasion was given during the
minority of Valentinian III. through the jealousy of the two great pillars
30 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALOERIA AND TUNIS Ahjeria
of tho state, j^tius and lioniface. Tlie former, enrafjed at liis rival Lcing
appoiiitiHl j^overnor of Africa, l>rought false charges of disloyalty against him,
wliich at last drove Boniface into the veiy acts of treason of which he had at
first been unjustly accused. He called to his assistance Genseric, king of the
Vandals in Spain, who landed in Africa a.d. 429, and was speedily joined l)y
troops of native Moors and the wild bands of the Donatists. With these
formidable allies he marched through the country, devastating it on every
side. In spite of the late repentance of Boniface, he seized the six Roman
provinces one after another, and in 439 Carthage, which had been again
restored to the position of the second city of the West, fell into his hands.
Genseric now commenced to consolidate his power in Africa. In order to
prevent the Romans from attaining any footing in the country he destroyed
nearly all the fortresses which they had built. Born a Catholic, he embraced
the Arian heresy, and persecuted his former brethren with all the malignant
zeal of an apostate, and he gave, by his maritime expeditions, a new turn to
the wild spirit of his people, who were the earliest predecessors of those
pirates and corsairs that were the scourge of the Alediterranean before the
French conquest.
Procopius, the historian of Justinian's wars against the Vandals, relates of
Genseric that his orders to his steersmen were : " Turn your sail to the wind,
and it will lead us against the objects of God's anger." He ravaged the
coasts of Sicily and Italy, and in A.D. 455 enjoyed a fourteen days' sack of
Rome, bringing back immense treasures and 60,000 prisoners.
Amongst these treasures were the golden candlesticks and the holy table
of the temple, brought to Rome by Titus ; these were afterwards rescued by
Belisarius, taken to Constantinople, and sent by Justinian to the Christian
Church at Jerusalem, after which there is no record of their fate.
In 476, after a vain attempt to re-conquer the African provinces, the
Eastern Empire was obliged also to humble itself before the Vandals, by
securing to them in a treaty Sardinia, Corsica, the Balearic Islands and
Sicily.
Genseric died A.D. 477 ; and under his successors the rough Northmen
fell into the luxurious habits of the Romans they had conquered, and the
Byzantine Empire took advantage of the first pretext for a fresh invasion.
This was offered in the reign of Justinian, when Gilimer, having deposed his
relative Hilderik, assumed the crown of Africa. A large fleet and army were
sent from Constantinople under command of Belisarius, who landed at
Carthage in a.d. 533. He completely routed the Vandal forces on the first
encounter, and compelled their sovereign to flee for refuge to Numidia. For
a time Gilimer retrenched himself in Mons Papua (Edough), near Bone, but he
was soon compelled to surrender, and was carried by his conqueror to Con-
stantinople, near which he remained in honourable retirement for the re-
mainder of his life. Belisarius was succeeded in Africa by the most illustrious
of his generals, the eunuch Solomon, who restored all the most important
strongholds, and after a short and brilliant career was killed before the walls
of Tebessa in a fruitless endeavour to repress an insurrection of the warlike
Berber hordes of that neighbourhood. The A'andal power was destroyed, but
Introd. § 8. historical notice of Algeria and tunik 31
that of the Byzantines was never thoroughly established ; it rested not on its
own strength but on the weakness of its enemies. The soldiers of the lower
empire heUl, it is true, the towns on the coast and many important fortresses,
but the fertile plains were in the hands of t\u- native races, and in many places
became desert in conseijuence of the tremendous decrease in the jiojiulation
caused by successive wars.
In the next century the country suffered invasion from a new iiuarter.
In the twenty-seventh year of the Hedjira (a.d. 647) the Klialif Othman
determined to effect the conquest of Africa, and on the arrival of the Arab
army in Eg}'pt a detachment was sent on to Tripoli. The Patrician Gregorius
was at this time governor of Africa. He had been originally appointed by
Heraclius, Emperor of the East, whose father had held the same oflice, and
who himself had started from Africa on the expedition which resulted in
the overthrow of the Emperor I'hocas and his own elevation to the purple.
Gregorius subsequently revolted from the Byzantine Empire, and by the
aid of the native Africans made himself independent sovereign of the
province.
Ibn Khaldoun says that his authority extended from Tripoli to Tangiers,
and that he made Suftctula {Sbeitla) his capital.
The command of the expedition was given to the brother of the Khalifa,
Abdulla Ibn Siiad, under whose ordere were placed the elite of the Arab troops,
to whom were added 20,000 Egyptians. The number of the whole force did
not certainly exceed 40,000 men. On entering the country occujiied by the
Romans, the Arab general sent on a detachment to Tripoli commanded by
Ez-ZohrL On their arrival before the city they found it too strong to be
carried by assault, and they continued their march to Gabes.
A message was sent to Gregorius offering him the usual conditions — to
embrace Islamism or to accept the payment of tribute, both of which he
indignantly refused. The invaders continued their march till they met the
Byzantine army on the plain of Acouba, situated about a day and a night's
march from Sbeitla.
The army of Gregorius is said to have numbered 120,000 men, but this
immense multitude was probably composed of naked and disorderly Moors or
Africans, amongst whom the regular bands of the empire must have been
nearly lost.
For several days the two armies were engaged from dawn of day till the
hour of noon, when fatigue and the excessive heat obliged them to seek shelter
in their respective camps.
The daughter of Gregorius, a maiden of incomparable beauty, fought by
her father's side ; and her hand, with 100,000 dinars, was offered to whom-
soever should slay Abdulla Ibn S;iad. The latter retaliated by offering the
daughter of Gregorius and 100,000 dinars to any one who would slay the
Ciiristian prince, her father. The combatants had been in the habit of iliscon-
tinuing the battle every day at noon, but on one occasion the Mohammedan
leader, having kept a considerable portion of his troops concealed and in
reserve, recommenced the action with these at mid -day, and utterly defeated
the Christian force. Gregorius alid a vast number of his followers were killed,
32 § 8. TTISTORICAL NOTICK OF ALfiERIA AND TUNIS Alfjcria
tlie ciimp was pillagoil, and the btvautiful dau^'htfr of tlie prince was ca))tured
and allotted to Ibn oz-Zobeir, who had slain her father.
Shortly afterwards Ibn Silad and his followers returned to the East laden
with spoil ; their invasion had been a jjurely military one, and they were
unencumbered either with women or cattle.
In 665 Moaouia ben el-Hodaidj brought another army from the East, and
on this occasion the IVIohammedans retained what they again conquered, and
the province of IfriJcia was formed and placed under the command of Okba
bin Nafa. The Moors and the Berbers adopted without trouble the name
and religion of the Arabs ; and fifty years afterwards a JIussulman governor
reported that there was no longer cause to raise the tax imposed on Christian
subjects. Thus was swept away the African Church, which had been
adorned by the names of Augustine, TertuUian, and Cyprian.
In the reign of the caliph Walid, A.D. 711, on the invitation of Count .
Julian, governor of Ceuta, and the small part of the country held by the
Visigoths of Spain, the Arabs advanced farther west, and the valiant General
Tarick, landing at Gibraltar {Djcbcl Tarick), carried the Crescent into Europe.
Multitudes of the Moors followed the Arabs into Spain, and the Europeans
gave the African name to their Asiatic conquerors.
During the next century the provinces of Africa were under the rule of
Emirs appointed by the caliphs. They made their capital at Kairouan
in Tunis, and were constantly employed in struggles with the Arab gover-
nors and Berber chieftains who ruled under them. In 800 hereditary
power was conferred by Haroun er-Rashid on Ibrahim, son of Aghlab, and
eleven of his descendants reigned after him, till in 910 a powerful rival rose
among the Berbers who inhabited the province of Constantine. This was
Abou Mohammed Obeid-Allah, who claimed to be a descendant of Fatima,
daughter of the Prophet, and, surrounded by mystery and marvellous legends,
he soon overthrew the Aghlabites ; and his successors, pushing their con-
quests farther east, established the dynasty of the Fatimite caliphs at Cairo.
In 944 Ziri, governor of Aschir, one of the provinces of Central Mogreb, built
the town of Algiers ; and the Fatimite caliph assisted him to establish an
hereditary throne for his race, which ruled until Rodger, king of Sicily, took
Tripoli from Hassan Ben Ali, and the dynasty of the Zirites came to an end.
The Hammadites, a branch of the same family, held the province of Constan-
tine ; and the Moravides, or Marahatin, a tribe of military saints from the
south, seized Oran and invaded Spain, 1055.
About this time occurred the great Arab Immigration. It was no brilliant
and ephemeral conquest, like that of Sidi Okba : the land was overrun by a
foreign people, who speedily absorbed the Berber nation or drove the remains
of it into the mountains. The tribes of Hillal and Soleim had inhabited the
deserts of the Hedjaz, where they existed as much hy brigandage as by the
produce of their flocks. When the Fatimites undertook the conquest of
Syria, they encountered the most determined resistance from these tribes.
Subsequently El-Aziz had them banished to Upper Egypt, whence they soon
found their way into, and overspread the whole country between Egypt and
the Atlantic. Ibn Khaldoun, speaking of these nomades, likens them to a
hitrod. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF AI/;f,RIA and TUNIS 33
r'loud of locusts, destroying cvciything over which they passed. Their law-
less character soon caused them to be expelled from all the great centres of
habitation, whereupon they took to the country, where their descendants
exist in the same nomade condition at the present day.
The Moravides of the west were displaced by the Almoahades {El-
Moahidin, those who attest the unity of God), another sect of warriors who
arose in the mountains of Morocco, conquered the Hammadites in 1153, and
drove the Sicilians from Tripoli in 1160. The Almoahades remained in
power till 1270, their capital being Tlem9en ; they were then overthrown by
tlic Beni-Zian, a desert tribe, who in a short time obtained possession of the
whole of Central Moghreb, with the excejition of the larger coast towns, which
succeeded in maintaining themselves as independent powers.
One of the most important of these was Algiers, built on the site of the
ancient town of Icosium. This name does not often occur in history. Pliny,
liowever, mentions that the Emperor Vespasian created it a Latin city, — a
title somewhat higher than Italian and less than Roman.
During the Christian epoch mention is made of a Donatist Bishop of
Icosium, Crescens, in 411, and of another, Laurentius, in 419, the latter of
whom was one of the three legates from Mauritania Ciesariensis sent to the
Council of Carthage. Nevertheless, it was a city of no great importance,
probably a mere station between the more considerable cities of lol and
Kusgunia.
In the tenth century of the Christian era Bologguin, son of Ziri, was
authorised by his father to found three towns, viz. Milianah, Lemdia (now
l^Iedeah), and El-Djczair Beni-Mczghanna (meaning "The Islands of the
Children of Mezghanna"), abbreviated \,q El-Djezair (Algiers), which last was
founded in the year 944.
In 1067 El-Bekri mentions it as then containing many splendid monu-
ments of antiquity, some of which were brought to light in digging the
foundations of the modern city ; but scarcely anything, with the exception of
a few inscribed stones, has been preserved : one of these, however, bears the
important word Icositanorum.
Almost since the foundation of Algiers an uneasy feeling existed regard-
ing the part she was destined to play in the world's history. The Spaniards
were seriously occupied in attemitting to drive the Moors from their own
country, but as soon as they became aware of the rising importance of this
city (in 1302), they despatched four vessels to reconnoitre it; finding it
simply a fortified enclo-sure, without any commerce, they contented themselves
with taking possession of a small island in front of the harbour, subsequently
called the J'n'toi or Bordj cl-fanal. During the next eighteen years commerce
began to spring up, and the Spaniards thom.selvcs were well content to find a
market at their doors whence they could draw their supplies.
In 1342 the Jews were expelleil from Italy, in 13S0 from Holland, and
from many other countries about the same period ; it is possible that they
contributed to increase the population, and to extend the trade of the infant
city.
After thecximlsion of the Moors from Spain (1505), they sought an asylum
34 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Alijerin
Oil the coast of Afii(M, l)ut they could not long remain there in peace, and
very soon adopted the profession of pirates, seeking thus to harass their
hereditary enemies and ruin their commerce. To stop their depredations
Ferdinand V. prepared a descent on the coast of Africa. On the ICAh of
September 1505 Don Diego of Cordova took possession of Mersa el-Kehir,
and four years later, on the 18th of I\Iay 1509, the Cardinal Ximenes, who
had instigated Ferdinand to undertake the war, came in person to direct the
siege, and take possession of the town of Oran. The king himself lacked
funds for the enterprise ; but these were supplied by the Cardinal ; and the
expedition, in consequence, gained the name of the " Crusade of Ximenes de
Cisneros," and was regarded as a holy war, all who fought in it having in-
dulgence from certain fast days for the remainder of their lives. After the
capture of Oran, Cardinal Ximenes charged Don Pedro Navarro, who liad
rendered important services during the expedition, to take possession of
several ports on the littoral which had been in the habit of welcoming and
protecting the Moorish pirates. On the 1st of January 1510 he set sail for
Bougie, which he took without much difficulty. Dellys, Mostaganem, and
Tlem^en, not being in a condition to offer any serious resistance, became
tributary to Spain.
Algiers also consented to pay an annual tribute, and to promise that
corsairs would not be permitted to enter the harbour or dispose of their
plunder in the town. To ensure these conditions he built a fort on the
PeRon, part of which still exists, and serves as base to the lighthouse.
About this time (1510) commenced the remarkable career of the brothers
Barbarossa, as they are usually styled by Europeans, but not, as is supposed,
from the red colour of their beard ; the word is merely a corruption of the
Turkish name of the elder brother Baba-Aroudj, who with Kheir-ed-din,
were sons of Yakoot Reis, captain of a galley belonging to the island of
Mytelene ; according to others of a potter there. They associated them-
selves with a number of other restless spirits, and soon found themselves at
the head of a piratical fleet, consisting of twelve galleys and many other
smaller vessels, with which they came to seek their fortune on the coast of
Barbary.
On entering Tunis with a cargo of plunder and slaves, they made magni-
ficent presents to the reigning prince Mulai Mohammed, of the dj'nasty of
Beni Hafes, and obtained permission to establish their headquarters in his
dominions.
As we have said, the town of Bougie was at this time occupied by the
Spaniards, and one of their first exploits was to try to recover it for the
]\Iohammedans ; they attacked it, but Avithout success, in 1512, on which
occasion Aroudj lost an arm.
Two years later (1514) they took Djedjeli from the Genoese, capturing
600 slaves and an immense amount of booty.
The renown which the brothers had acquired in fighting against the
Christians induced the Emir Salem ben Teumi of Algiers (1516) to implore
their assistance to dislodge the Sjianiards from their position on the Penon.
Aroudj gladly accepted the invitation, and, leaving his brother with the
I II (ml. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OP ALGERIA AND TUNIS 35
licet, niaichcd on Algiers with a force of 5000 men. lie was hailed as a de-
liverer, but he soon made himself master of the town, put Salem ben Teumi
to death, and proclaime<l himself king of Algiers in liis stead.
In 1517 he occupied Medea and Tleim.'en, whicli places he added to his
dominions. At the same time liis fleets continued to infest the coasts of
Spain and Italy, and so frequent and cruel were their devastations that
Charles V. at the beginning of his reign (1518) despatched a body of troops
to the governor of Oran sullicient to attack liim. At first Aroudj shut him-
self up in the Mechouar of Tlem9en, but being forced to evacuate it, and
})cing hotly pursued by the Spaniard Martin d'Agole, lie died on the banks
of the Rio Salado or river of Ouchda, about 92 kil. west of Oran, in tho
country of the Beni Moussa.
Kheir-ed-din succeeded his brother, but, seeing himself menaced by tlio
Spaniards on the one hand and by the native Algerians on the other, he
placed himself under the suzerainty of the Sublime Porte, and was named
I'acha by Selini I. He afterwards defeated, near the Balearic Islands, the
Siiaiiish Admiral Portundo, and in 1530 cajjtured the Fort Peuon, which tbe
S[)aniiirds had held for thirty years, and put its governor to death.
He connected it to the mainland by a mole, in which work 30,000 Chris-
tian slaves were employed for three years, and surrounded the town with
a wall.
Khcir-cd-din now (1518) conceived the project of taking possession of the
kingdom of Tunis, by far the most flourishing country at that time on tho
coast of Africa, and the state of intestine strife prevailing there opened to
him an easy means of clfecting his purpose.
Mulai Mohammed, the last prince of the Beni Ilafes dynasty, which had
existed in an uninterrupted line for three centuries, died in 1525, leaving a
numerous family of sons by did'erent wives. Mulai Hassan, one of the
youngest, owing to tho intrigues of his mother, had been chosen as his suc-
cessor. It is alleged that ho poisoned his father. Certainly he put to death
all those of his biothers whom he could get into his power ; but Ileshid, one
of the oldest, succeeded in escajjing to the Arabs in the interior, and with
their support for a long time disputed his brother's right to the throne.
He eventually took refuge at Algiers, and imjdored the protection of
Kheir-cd-din, who, seeing the great advantage which might accrue to him-
self by supporting his title, received him with every mark of friendship and
respect. He easily persuaded Reshid to accompany him to Constantinople,
and induced Sultan Soliman to equip an expedition for the conquest of Tunis,
which done, the unhappy Reshid was thrown into prison, whence ho never
again emerged.
After ravaging the coast of Italy tho fleet anchored at Pdzerta, where it
was warmly received ; the inhabitants even proposed to co-operate with liim,
but their olfer was not aecejited, and Kheir-ed-din proceeded without loss of
time to the Ooletta, the fort at which place .soon fell into his hands. He
gave out that tho object of his ajtpearing on the scene was to reinstate Reshid
on his father's throne, on which the inhabitants of Tuni.s, weary of Mulai
Hassan's government, expelled the latter from the city, and opened their
36 § 8. historicaIj notice of ai,gp:ria and tunis Ahjcria
gates to liis brother. But when the now prince did not appear the peojtle
began to suspect the corsair's treachery. Kheir-ed-din did not leave thern
long in doubt, but informed them that the Beni Hates had ceased to reign,
and that he had come in tlieir place as representative of the Sultan. The
inhabitants flew to arms, and surrounded the citadel into which Kheir-ed-din
had led his troo2)S ; but he had foreseen such an attack, and was not unpre-
pared for it, and the artillery on the ramparts soon overpowered the ill-
directed musketry fire of his assailants, and compelled them to retire with a
loss, it is said, of 3000 killed.
His first care, after having taken possession of Tunis, was to put his new
kingdom in a proper state of defence. He strengthened the citadel which
commanded the town, fortified the Goletta in a regular manner at vast
expense, and made it his principal arsenal and the station of his fleet. He
won over the warlike tribes of the Drid and Xeinemchas by liberal presents,
and succeeded in introducing a Turkish garrison into the holy city of Kerouan,
the second capital of the country. *
Mula'i Hassan fled for safety to Constantine (1535), where he made the
acquaintance of a renegade Genoese, named Xinu-a, by whose advice he de-
manded the aid of Charles V., and engaged to second his operations with a
contingent of Arabs. Daily complaints were brought to the Emperor of the
outrages committed by the Barbary pirates on his subjects, both in Spain
and Italy, and the glory to be obtained by ridding the world of this odions
species of oppression induced him to turn a willing ear to the representations
of the dethroned prince, and to conclude a treaty with him for the invasion
of Tunis. He drew contingents for this purpose from every part of the
empire : a Flemish fleet brought a body of German infantry ; the galleys of
Naples and Sicily brought well-trained bands of Italians ; the Pope rendered
all the assistance in his power ; the Knights of Malta, swoi'n enemies of the
infidel, equipped a small but eflicient squadron ; the Emperor himself em-
"barked at Barcelona with the flower of the Spanish nobility, and a consider-
able flotilla from Portugal under the command of Don Luis, the Empress's
brother ; Andrea Doria conducted his own galleys, the best appointed in
Europe, and commanded by the most skilful officers. Doria was appointed
high-admiral of the fleet ; and the command of the land forces, under the
Emperor, was given to the Marquis de Guasto.
On the 16th of July 1535 the fleet, consisting of nearlj'' 500 vessels, and
30,000 regular troops, set sail from Cagliari, and after a prosperous voyage
arrived at the site of Carthage, where a landing was effected without
difficulty.
In the meantime Kheir-ed-din had not been idle : he called in his corsairs
from their diff'erent stations ; he drew from Algiers what forces could be
spared, and enlisted the assistance of the African princes by representing
Mulai Hassan not only as a vassal of a Christian prince, but himself an
apostate from El- Islam. Twenty thousand Moorish horse were soon collected
at Tunis ; the Goletta was strongly fortified, and, as the Emperor had com-
mand of the sea, the Turkish galleys were sheltered in the canal which
connects the lake of Tunis with the sea, which canal was widened for the
Introtl. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 37
purpose, and a constant service of boats was established to supply the ganisoii
of the Goletta with supplies.
Notwithstanding an obstinate resistance, the Goletta was taken by assault
on the 25th July ; the garrison retired to Tunis, and the Emi)eror became
master of Kheir-ed-din's fleet, arsenal, and 300 brass cannon, whicli were
planted on the ramparts. The Emjteror immediately marched on Tunis,
completely overthrowing Kheir-ed-din, who advanced with a large force to
oppose him. Ten thousand Christian slaves confined in the citadel effected
tlieir liberation and sided with the invaders, and Charles became master
of Tunis. For three days the town was given over to pillage, and it is said
that 30,000 of the inhabitants perished, and 10,000 more were carried off" as
slaves. Mulai Hassan took possession of a throne surrounded by carnage,
abhorred by his subjects, and pitied even by those who had been the cause of
those calamities.
He was obliged to sign a treaty, dated 5th August 1535, acknowledging
that he held his kingdom in fee of the Crown of Si)ain, agreeing to \y,\y 12,000
crowns for the subsistence of the garrison at the Goletta, and to scud every
year to the Emperor twelve horses, and as many falcons, as a token of vassal-
age. He also agreed to free all Christian slaves in his dominions, allow
perfect liberty of religion, the exclusive right of fishing for coral to the
Spaniards, and undertook that no corsair should be admitted into any of his
ports.
The Emi)eror left a garrison of 200 men in his citadel of Tunis, and retired
to the Goletta, and thence to his former camp at Carthage ; and having left
orders for the construction of a new fort at the Goletta, he set sail for Europe.
On his way he took possession of the ports of Bizerta and Bune, in which latter
town he left a garrison of 1000 men.^
Kheir-ed-din effected his escape (1536), but was immediately recalled to
Constantinople, where he died in 154(3.
Si.v very remarkable contemporary paintings illustrative of this expedition
are extant, and were exhibited by Her Majesty the Queen to the Society of
Antiquaries at London on the 8th May 1862. They represent : —
1. Landing of the expedition near Carthage. 2. Attack on the Goletta
fort, and skirmish with the Turks. 3. Capture of the Goletta fort. 4,
Advance on Tunis and defeat of the Turks. 5. Capture and sack of Tunis.
6. Convention with the Turks and departure of the army. The jjaintings arc
attributed to an artist named Jan Cornelisz Vermeyen, who is represented
in one of the paintings as making his drawings. These interesting works
of art were discovered in the Castle of Greinberg on the Danube and taken
thence to Coburg. Througli the influence of the late Prince Consort they
were cleaned and repaired by M. Eichener of Augsburg, and subseijueutly
brought to England for a time, when they were returned to Coburg. One
of the pictures is of i)ecidiar interest, as it gives an undoubted representation
ol' the St. Ann, the curious Carrack of the Knights of St. John.
1537. Several of the cities of Tunis, amongst others Susa and Kerouan,
revolted against Mulai Hassan, who was forced once more to apply to Charles
1 Consult Uobertsou's " liistory of the Ueigu of Charles V."
38 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS Algeria
V. ; by Jiis coinniand the Viceroy of Sicily sent an ex2)e(lition against Susa in
1537, wliich, however, proved unsuccessfuL
Two years hater (1539) Andrea Doria reduced tlie principal cities on tlie
coast — Kelibia, Susa, Monastir, and Sfax — to the authority of Mulai Hassan,
and JMonastir received a garrison of Spanish soldiers.
Mulai Hassan resolved to crush the insurrection by the reduction of
Kerouan, against which he niarclied with a considerable force of native troops
and the^Christian garrison left behind by Charles V., but the former nearly
all passed over to the enemy, and he was glad to get back to Tunis accom-
jianied only by his Spanish allies. No sooner was the Spanish garrison
withdrawn from Monastir (1540) when that town, as well as Susa, Sfax, and
Kelibia, again revolted, and jtlaced themselves under the protection of the
celebrated corsair Draguth, an officer trained under Kheir-ed-din, and scarcely
inferior to his master in bravery, talent, and good fortune. After a year,
liowever, Doria again appeared on the coast and drove off the Turks.
1542. The precarious terms on which he held his power induced Mulai
Hassan to proceed in person to Europe, to solicit once more the help of the
Christians. During his absence his son Mulai Hamed usurped the kingdom,
and on his father's return with a small body of followers, the son overcame
the father in battle, and, having put out his eyes, permitted him again to
return to Europe, where he shortly afterwards died.
Algiers still continued in the state of independence in which it had been
left by Kheir-ed-din, who was succeeded in the government by Mohammed
Hassan, as Pacha, in 1536. He was a renegade eunucli, who had passed
through every stage in the corsair's service, and had acquired such experience
in war that he was well fitted for any station which required a man of tried
and daring courage. He carried on his piratical depredations against the
Christian states with even more audacity and success than his master.
Repeated and clamorous complaints reached the Emperor that the commerce
of the Mediterranean was greatly interrupted by the corsairs of Algiers, which,
since the capture of Tunis, had become the common receptacle of freebooters.
Moved partly by these considerations, and partly with the hope of adding
further glory to his last expedition to Africa, Charles issued orders (1541) to
prepare a fleet and an army for the invasion of Algiers.
He was deaf to the advice of his faithful admiral, Andrea Doria, that he
should not expose his armament to destruction by approaching the dangerous
shores of Algiers at an advanced period of the year. His resolution was as
inflexible as his courage was undaunted : and even a prince less adventurous
might have been excused for his confidence in so splendid an array.
It consisted of 20,000 foot and 2000 horse, Spaniards, Italians, and Ger-
mans, mostly veterans, together with 3000 volunteers, the flower of the
Spanish and Italian nobility, and 1000 men sent from Malta, led by 100 of
the knights of St. John.
He sailed from Porto Venero, in the Genoese territories, and, having
touched at Majorca, arrived before Algiers on the 20th October 1541. At first
the roll of the sea and the vehemence of the wind would not permit the troops
to disembark, but at last the Emperor seized a favourable opportunity and
hitrod. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 39
landed them without opposition between Algiers and the mouth of tlic Harach,
on the spot now occupied by the Jardin d'Essai.
To oppose this mighty army Hassan liad only 800 Turks and 5000 Moors,
partly natives of Africa and partly refugees from Spain. He returned, how-
ever, a fierce and haughty answer when summoned to surrender.
But what neither his desperate courage nor skill in war could have done,
the elements cfTected for him. On the nights of the 24th and 25th violent
rain began to fall, which rendered the firearms of the invaders useless ; the
Turks, taking advantage of the storm, pursued the Christians with such
impetuosity that they were compelled to retreat. One hundred and forty of
the vessels were wrecked by the same tempest. The survivors were embarked
on board the remainder at Cape JIatifou on the 1st, 2d, and 3d of November,
notwithstanding the earnest advice of Cortez, the conqueror of Mexico, who
felt confident that a second attempt would be more successful. The Emperor
was the last to embark. He arrived at Bougie on the 4th, remained there till
the 17th, and arrived in Spain on the 1st of December, having lost a third of
his army and more than a third of his fleet.
In 1542 Hassan, I'aclia of Algiers, attacked and massacred the tribe of the
Zouaoua, who had furnished 2(J00 men for the army of Charles V. His suc-
cessor was Hassan, son of Kheir-ed-din, who continued in power until 1552,
when Salah Rais, an Arab of Alexandria, was made I'aclia. He retook Bougie
from tlie Spaniards (whose governor, Peralta, was beheaded at Valladolid),
united the towns of Tlemgen and Mostaganem to the regency of Algiers, and
died of the plague at Matifou in 1556.
The next Pacha, Mohammed Kordougli, was assassinated in the Koubba
of Sidi Abd-el-Kader, in the same year, by Youssef, who succeeded him, but
only reigned six days, when he died of the plague.
After several short and unimi)ortunt reigns, Jlohammed, son of Salah Rais,
was created Pacha in 15C6. He made some additions to the town, and built
several new forts, and was succeeded in 1568 by Ali el-Euldj el-Fortas, a
celebrated pirate, whose reign was passed in a succession of wars against the
neighbouring nations. After liim came Arab-Ahmed, 1572 to 1574 ; and
Ranulan, a renegade Sardinian, 1574 to 1576; both of whom added to the
fortilications of the town. At this time there were not less than 25,000
Christian slaves in bondage in Algiers.
In the next forty years as many as eighteen different Pachas reigned ; their
governments being distinguished only by wars, assassinations, extortion, and
tyranny.
The history of the country now becomes very obscure. Internally the
Turks extended their conquests over the whole of the Barbary States, even as
far south as the desert. They divided Algeria into the three "Beyliks"of
Oran, Constantine, and Titeri, the regency still having its capital at Algiers.
With regard to the outer world, the history of the SUite is but that of the
large towns, which sent out their pirate vessels even as far as the North Sea,
and became so powerful in the Mediterranean that none of the European
States escaped the disgrace of paying at times a regular tril>nle to secure safely
to their mariners.
40 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICK OF ALGKHIA AND TUNIS Al'inia
Amongst otlier captives, in the 3'ear 1555, was Cervantes, who iemaine<l in
captivity five years and a half. He was taken prisoner on the voyage from
Naples to Spain by a squadron of Algerine galleys, commanded by Amant
Mame, and fell to the lot of Dali Mame, a Greek renegade, captain of one of
the galleys. His freedom was purchased by the Padres licclemtores on the
19th September 1580. He has described some of the miseries to which he
was subject in the story of "The Captive" in Don Quixote. A grotto is
pointed out in' the " Propriete Sabatery," near the Jardin d'Essai, where
Cervantes and his companions resided after their flight from Algiers and
before being actually freed. Many of the Christians, hopeless of regaining
their liberty, renounced their religion, and some rose to high places in the
State, several even becoming Deys. It is said that in 1640 there were 3000
renegade corsairs in the Algerine fleet ; a large proportion, no doubt, tempted
to join by the chance of enriching themselves which such a trade oH"ered.
An English Consulate was established at Algiers towards the end of the
16th century. John Tipton, who held the office in 1580, was perhaps the
first consul ever regularly ajjpointed with a commission and an exequatur, and
there has been an almost uninterrupted succession ever since. ^
Very early in the I7th century the Algerines began to substitute square-
rigged vessels for the galleots which they had been in the habit of using. Sir
Francis Cottington, writing from Madrid to the Duke of Buckingham in 1616,
says : " The strength and boldness of the Barbary pirates is now grown to
that height, both in the ocean and Mediterranean seas, as I have never known
anything to have wrought a greater sadness and distraction than the daily
advice thereof. Their whole fleet consists of 40 sail of tall ships of between
two and four hundred tons a piece."
About this time a prize was made on the coast of France which had the
effect subsequently of bringing hope, comfort, and deliverance to many a
weary Christian slave. A young man of the name of Vincent de Paul em-
barked on board a vessel at Marseilles bound for Xarbonne. It was taken by
three Barbary pirates in the Gulf of Lyons, and all on board carried to Tunis.
Vincent de Paul was at first sold to a sailor, who soon parted with him. He
was subsequently purchased by an Arab doctor, with whom he remained from
September 1605 till August 1606, when his master died, leaving him to a
nephew, who soon after sold him to an Italian renegade.
St. Vincent was the cause of this man's return to Christianity, and they
both escaped in a boat to France in July 1607. In 1625 St.iVincent laid the
first foundation of his mission, which continued without interraption in
Algeria and Tunis, till the former country became a French possession. In-
deed, it exists there at the present time, engaged in other works of piety and
charit)'.
1616. Mustafa Pacha (Algiers). At this time Louis XIII. complained to
the Porte at Constantinople, in consequence of the behaviour of the Pachas,
and sent to the galleys some Algerine captives who had escaped from Spain
into Fi'ance. In return the Pacha imprisoned M. de Vias, the French consul
1 For an account of British relations with Algiers from this time till the French con-
quest, see the author's " Scourge of Christendom." Smith, Elder and Co. 1SS4.
Intro:!. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICK OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 41
at Alj,'icrs, who had to inucliase his liheity by payment of large sums of
uioncy, and in 1618 was succeeded by il. Chaix, previously vice-consul. In
March 1619 a treaty of peace was signed between Louis XIII. and the Pachu
Hussein.
1621. Kader Paelia (Algiers). Hostilities again commenced with France,
and some Algerine envoys were put to death at ilarseilles, in retaliation for
which M. Chaix was killed.
In 1620 Sir Robert Mansel, vice-admiral of England, was sent to make a
demonstration against Algiers. The royal navy was not yet, however, sulii-
ciently large to rely on its own resources, and in this, the only warlike opera-
tion undertaken by it during the reign of James I., the greater number of
vessels employed were hired from private mei'chants. It consisted of eighteen
ships, six belonging to the king and twelve hired ones, and so greatly had the
size of British ships increased during late years, that the smallest of the royal
vessels was 400 tons burden, and carried 36 guns. The expedition itself was
productive neither of benefit nor glory. It was thus described by Mr. Secre-
tary Burchell : " Such was the ascendant Count Gondomar, the King of
Spain's ambassador, had at the court of King James I., that at his solicitations
ii S(iuadron of men-of-war was sent to the Mediterranean, commanded by Sir
Koliert Mansel, to bring the Algerines to reason, by whom the Spaniards were
daily most insullerably molested. That commander api>eared before Algiers ;
but he had not much reason to be satisfied at the success he there met with,
and in return for the civility of his visit, his back was scarce turned but those
corsairs picked up near forty good sail belonging to the subjects of his master,
and infested the Spanish coasts with greater fury than ever. "
The narrator of this expedition, who was on board one of the vessels, men-
tions that while they were still in the harbour conducting their fruitless
negotiations, two liritish vessels were brought in as prizes by the "Turkes
I'yrates," and there is no mention made of any demand for their restitution.
The admiral had sent the King's letters to the Dey in charge of Captain John
Roper, who was detained until a consul should be appointed. The nomina-
tion of this consular oflicer is more curious than flattering to our national
dignity. The historian of the expedition says : "The 6th (December 1620)
after long debating, finding the Turkes perfidious and fickle, as well as de-
taining our messenger who delivered His Maiestie's letters, notwithstanding
we had suflicient hostages for him, as in breaking all other promises, in the
end it was agreed thus : upon leaving a consuU with them they would let our
7nessenger come aboord againe. \V hereupon the admirall sent a conunon
man ^ well cloatlied, by the name of a consull, whom they received with good
respect, and sending our messenger aboord, received their ounc pledges and
delivered us some 40 poor captives, which they pretended was all they had in
the towne. This was all we couKl draw from them."
1628. The Dutch Admiral Lambert arrived in 1624 with six vessels to
ilemand the restitution of certain captured slaves and ships, which was at first
refused by the Divan ; but after Landxrt had hanged at the yard arms of his
vessels the pirates in his power, his demands were granted. In 1C2S Sanson
1 Mr. Uicliaril Fur.l.
42 § 8. HISTORICAL XOTICIO OF ALOEUIA. AND TUNIS AVjeria
Napollon coiidiukd a jioacc witli tlic I'aclia IIusseiti-Klioilja on belialf of llie
Fiencli, in wliicli slaves w(;re exclianged ; this peace cost them £270,000. In
the same year tlie Koulouglis revolted, and were nearly all massacred.
The audacity of the Algcrine pirates at this time was unparalleled, their
prizes amounting to, it was said, about 20,000,000 francs. The Christian
powers of Europe having constantly endeavoured to exterminate them without
success, had now nearly all adopted the expedient of paying tribute to the
Pacha to escape their depredations, which they carried as far as the North
Sea.
Even the shores of England were not respected. An incident which oc-
curred a few years earlier deserves to be recorded, in the words of the principal
actor in it, the Rev. Devereux Spratt ^ : —
" October 23d, 1640. — The horrid rebellion of Ireland brake forth, and in
it God's severe judgements upon the English Protestants, there being not less
than 150,000 murdered as by public records appears. ... I returned to
Ballybegg, where I remained in the discharge of my calling until the English
ariL^y came to carry us off. . . . Then at Corke I petitioned the Lord
Inchaquin, who gave me a pass for England ; and coming to Youghole in a
boate I embarked in i>ne John Filmer's vessell, which set sayle with about
six score passengers ; but before wee were out of sight of land wee were all
taken by an Algire piratt, who putt the men in chaines and storkes. This
thing was so greivious that I began to question Providence, and accused Him
of injustice in His dealings with me, untill ye Lord made it appear otherwise
by ensueing mercye. Upon my arrivall in Algires I found pious Christians,
M'liich changed my former thoughts of God, which was that He dealt more
hard with me than with other of His servants. God was pleased to guide for
me, and those relations of mine taken with me, in a providential ordering of
civil patrons for us, who gave me more liberty than ordinary, especially to me,
who preached the Gospel to my poor countrymen, amongst whom it pleased
God to make me an instrument of much good. I had not stayed there long,
but I was like to be freed by one Captain Wilde, a pious Christian ; but on a
sudden I was sould and delivered to a ]\Iusslemau dwelling with his family in
ye towne, upon which change and sudden dissappoiutment I was very sad. My
patron asked me the reason, and withall uttered these comfortable words,
' God is great,' which took such impression as strengthened my faith in God,
considering thus with myself, shall this Turkish Mahumetin teach me, who
ame a Christian, my duty of faith and dependence upon God ?
"After this God stirred up ye heart of Captaine Wilde to be an active
instrument for me at Leagourno in Italy, amongst the merchants there, to
contribute liberally towards my randsome, especially a Mr. John Collier.
After the captaine returned to Algires he paid my randsome, which amounted
to 200 cobs. Upon this a petition was presented by the English captives for
my staying amongst them ; yt he showed me, and asked what I would do
in ye case. I tould him he was an instrument under God of my liberty, and
I would be at his disposeing. He answered, Noe. I was a free man, and
should be at my own disposeing. 'Then,' I replyed, 'I will stay,' consider-
1 Tlie MS. of this diary is in the possession of his descendant, Admiral Spratt, B.N.
Iittrod. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 43
ing that 1 might be more scrvisahle to my country by my contimiiiig in en-
during alllictions with tlie [leople of Goil than to enjoy liberty at liome."
Shortly before the outbreak of the Civil War an Act of Parliament was
passed by both Houses "whereby they did manifest unto the world their
resolution of undertaking that Christian work of the Redemption of the Cap-
tives from the cruel thraldome that they lay under." For some time, how-
ever, all action in this respect was necessarily intern)itted. In the year 1(545
the rarlianieut sent out "a ship of strength called the Ilonuiir, laden with a
Gargasoon of money and goods to a great value," in charge of their special
agent, Edmond Casson, who was authorised to treat for the liberation of the
English captives at Algiers. Unfortunately this vessel was destroyed by lire
in the harbour of Gibraltar, but in the following year (1646) another similar
vessel, called the (JIuirles, was despatched. The parliamentary report of the
mission thus relates the result : —
" In prosecution of which orders the said agent, ship, and goods procietled
on the voyage, and God hath so blessed the work that they arrived in safety
at Algeir, where after a long and diilicult treaty, the register of the captives
was taken, wherein are enrolled the names of all that are upon that place, and
tlie price for their ransome agreed on, as tiiey iirst cost in the market. That
Gargasoon of money and goods hath by the agent been so well managed, that
244 persons, men, women, and children arc redeemed and sent home in the
said shi}), the Charles. The agent is constrained to stay there until such time
as the remainder are likewise redeemed, in preparation to the desi)atch whereof
two shii)S arc now preparing to be sent thither with a greater Gargasoon than
before." Casson died at Algiers in 1654.
In 1637 some French vessels took possession of two Algcrine pirate ships,
on board of one of which was the new I'acha, Ali, coming from Constant-
inople. In return, Youssef seized JI. Tion, the French consul, and an agent
named Mussey, both of whom narrowly escaped being burnt alive. At this
time Algiers possessed 3U0 pirate vessels, and in the same reign the town was
nearly destroyed by an eartlii|uake.
In 1655 took place Blake's celebrated action at Tunis, one of the grandest
feats in English naval history. There were long accounts to settle with that
regency for its piratical conduct towards British vessels, and there was a
strong susi)icion that many unhai)py cajitives languished there in slavery. He
first made his appearance at the Goletta, but, failing to obtain any satisfaction
for his just demands, ho broke olf negotiations, proceeded to Cagliari for pro-
visions, and on the 3d of April again appeared off Torto Farina, the winter
iiarbour and principal arsenal of the Bay of Tunis, where his fleet was
anchored inshore under the guns of the batteries ; these were strengthened
lor the occasion, and further protected by a camp of several thousand horse
and foot.
At daybreak on the llh of April, Pdakc, with his whulc si[\iadriin, consist-
ing of the >il. Oconje, his own flag-ship, the St. Andrnr, carrying the flag of
\'ice-Admiral Badly, the riijmouUi, NcwMsllc, I'aunluii, Fvn~siij/U, Amilij,
Meniuiid, and^Mcrlin, rodo into the bay, and, divine service having been per-
formed, coolly proceeded to anchor as close to the great batteries on shore as
44 § 8. TITSTORICAI, NOTICh) OF AI.OKHFA AND TUNIS Ah/eriu
tlii^y could II(jat. In a slioit liiiic tlic whole artilleiy of rorto Farina, not
less than 120 guns of large calibre, opened fire upon the fleet, which fiercely
M'lilied against its solid masonry. The conflict was still undecided \ylien
lilake sent his boats under cover of the smoke to burn the corsair vessels.
The whole of the nine large ships of war were speedily in flames. In four
hours from the first broadside the work was done, the pirate vessels were
utterly destroyed, the batteries on shore were silenced, and the walls of Porto
Farina were so much injured that the works could easily have been carried
by assault, had Blake deemed it advisable to do so. But his aims were accom-
plished, and the lesson then read to the Tunisians made his subsef[uent nego-
tiations with other Barbary States a matter of little difficulty. "When the
English squadron anchored off Algiers to demand restitution of property and
the liberation of English slaves it met with little opposition, and a bargain
was made for the ransom of all the captives at a fixed price.
1661. Disj)utes between the Governments of Algiers and Great Britain
became very frequent about this time, as the fear of our power had been so
much lessened by Blake's death that the corsairs had again begim to commit
depredation on our shipping. Mr. Pepys tells us how he went to the Fleece
tavern to drink, and remained till four o'clock, telling stories of Algiers and
the manner of life of slaves there, and how Captain Mootham and Mr. Danes
(father of the Archbishop of York), who had been both slaves there, did make
him fully acquainted with their condition, how they did eat nothing but bread
and water, and how they were beat upon the soles of their feet and their
bellies at the liberty of their patron.
In that year the Earl of Sandwich was sent by Charles II. to bring over
the Queen from Portugal, and at the same time to settle the matters in dis-
pute at Algiers. In the latter mission he was quite unsuccessful. Pepys
observes, " The business of Algiers hath of late troubled me, because My Lord
hath not done what he went for, though he did as much as any man in the
world could have done." And later, that early in 1662 letters came from
" My Lord " that "by a great storm and tempest the whole of Algiers is broken
down and many of their ships sunk into the Mole, so that God Almighty
hath ended that unlucky business for us, which is very good news."
This no doubt disposed the Pacha to conclude a peace with England,
which was done by Admiral Sir John Lawson on the 23d April 1662.
In 1663 Lawson again proclaimed war on Algiers, in consequence of some
English vessels having been captured, and the refusal of the Dey to make
restitution for the goods which had been taken out of them, together with tlie
imjirisonment of the consul. Peace was concluded by Admiral Sir Thomas
Allen, on 30th August 1664, on the basis of the last one. A treaty of peace
between France and Algiers was signed in 1666, by which all Algerine
l)rivuteers were furnished with a free pass by the French consul ; but it was
broken in 1667 by Ismail sending some ships against the French to the siege
of Candia. He was finally beaten by the Marquis dc Martel, and peace
re-established.
In 1669 an officer named Khelil proposed to the Janissaries or Turkish
militia that the power should no longer be solely in the hands of the Pachas,
Introil. § 8. HISTORICAL notice of AIG1:RIA and TUNIS 45
who were becoming unbearable through their tyranny, but that tlieir interests
sliould be represented by an Agha, elected by themselves.
The Pacha was retained out of respect to tlie Sultan, but he was not per-
mitted to interfere in State alfairs, though allowed an appanage suitable to
his rank. This plan was adopted, and the reigning Pacha, Ibrahim, thrown
into prison, ami Ismail appointed in his stead. The originator of the plan,
Khelil, was made Agha, and shortly after assassinated in 1G70.
In 1G69 war was again declared between England and Algiers, and Sir
Thomas Allen was once more charged with its conduct. This expedition was
no more successful tlian the previous one, if we except the brilliant ei>isoile of
Sir Edwaxd Spragg's action at Bougie, where tiie principal fleet of the pirates
was assembled, protected by a strong l)Oom thrown across the entrance of the
harbour. Sir Edward broke the boom, silenced the batteries, and captured
or burnt the whole of their shipping. The Algerians rose in revolt against
their Government on receiving news of this disaster, and put the reigning Dey,
Ali Agha, to death, making at the same time ample submission.to the Englisli
admiral.
In 1675 the Dutch offered large sums for the purchase of peace, but tlieir
terms were not accepted by the Divan at Algiers. Even as regards England
they seemed not to have had a sufficiently severe lesson, for in 1677 it was
found necessary to send Admiral Herbert against them with another squadron,
liut the mere sight of his force recalled to their minds so lively a recollection
of the chastisement they had received from Sir Edward Spragg that they at
once submitted, and, though they plundered every one else, it was some time
before they ventured to insult the British flag. But the mere fact of keeping
Englishmen in bondage did not seem to have been considered "an insult to
the British flag" in those days.
The piratical search for slaves was in fact an organised system. The
Turks considered it lawful to keep all Christian prisoners in bondage, and
entirely at the mercy of their respective masters. The answer of the Dey to
the remonstrances of an English consul was, " Know you not that my people
are a company of rogues, and I ain their captain ?" Not only were all
prisoners of war so treated, but it was the constant habit of the Dey, on any
European State attempting reprisals, to send to the galleys the consul of that
country, and all merchants and crews of vessels who were bold enough to have
visited his ports for the purpose of commerce. On many occasions hundreds
of these peaceful traders were killed, and the consuls also treated with great
barbarity, being burnt alive, or blown from the mouths of cannon ; while, in
one instance, on the approach of a French fleet, their representative wa.s thrown
towards them from a mortar. The number of whites kept in slavery is as-
tonishing. In 1646 it was reckoned that there were not less than 20,000 ;
in 1768, 1500 Christians were redeemeil by Spain alone ; and when Lord Ex-
mouth finally destroyed the pirate navy in 1816, he obtained the liberty of
3000. These are some of the most striking instances ; but hundreds of caj)-
tives were annually ransomed by their respective nations, or by societies
formed for the puri»ose. Many priests nobly devoted themselves to ministering
to the slaves, even voluntarily going to the galleys for the sake of being with
40 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF AI/IERIA AND TT?N'IS Ah/nia
tlieni. Several of tlieso, wlio were killed amoiif; the other vietims of the
Turks, have been canonised.
War again Ijrokn out with Algiers, and lasted for five years. It is stated
on excellent authority that between the years 1674 and 1681 five or six
thousand English slaves were brought into Algiers, and about 350 vessels
cai)tured, aiid at the peace of 10th April 1682 the Dey refused to surrender a
single English slave, leaving the general to liargain with their several masters
as best he could for their ransom.
The treaty then signed between Charles II. and the Government of Algiers
contained a clause to the following effect : " The King of Great Britain shall
not be obliged by virtue of this treaty to redeem any of his subjects now in
slavery, but it shall depend absolutely upon His Majesty or the friends or
relations of the said persons in slavery to redeem such as shall be thought fit,
agreeing to as reasonable a price as may be with their patrons or masters for
their redemption, without obliging the said patrons against their will to set
any at liberty." This treaty, which may be seen in vol. i. of Hertslet's Com-
pilation, page__58, is probably the most degrading one ever concluded betAveen
Great Britain and a foreign power ; nevertheless this provision was renewed
by James II. on 5th April 1686, and by George II. on 18th March 1729. The
condition of the slaves was most pitiable. Such as belonged to the Dey were
imprisoned in the Bagnio. They had a ration of black bread and a little soup
once a day ; they were compelled to labour incessantly, some at the quarries
outside the town ; others were harnessed to stone carts like mules ; many had
to labour at the ovens where bread was made for the Janissaries, and their lot
was even more miserable than the others ; the least wretched were the skilled
artisans, but these found it almost impossible to obtain their freedom, so use-
ful were they to the State. Such as were owned by private individuals were
even more unfortunate than the others, being treated worse than beasts of
burden, and liable to every species of cruelty and torture that their pitiless
masters could devise. The only consolation left to them was the ministration
of the Catholic missionaries, who spent their tilue, and often sacrificed life
itself, in solacing their misfortunes.
In August and September 1682, and again in 1683, the French Admiral
Duquesne appeared before Algiers with a strong fleet, and commenced to
bombard the town ; it was the first occasion of shells being used for such a
purpose, and they not only committed great ravages in the town, but so
terrified the Dey that he consented to deliver up 546 French slaves. This
enraged the Turks beyond endurance. The Dey, Baba Hassan, was murdered,
and Mezzo-Morto elected in his stead. His first act was to threaten Duquesne
to blow away every Frenchman from guns if the attack was renewed — a threat
which he carried into execution by thus disposing of M. Le Yacher, the French
consul and Vicar- Apostolic, together with twenty other Frenchmen.^ In
1684 a humiliating peace was concluded, nominally for 100 years.
In 1688, in consequence of some raids made npon French, English, and
1 The immense cannon from which these unfortunates and many others were blown
away was called by the Turks Baba Mcnouk (Father Fortunate), and V)y the French La
Consulaire, It is now preserved as a trophy on the Place d'Armes at Brest.
Introd. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TCNI.S 47
Dutch ships, and the imprisonment of the French consul, M. Piolle, the town
was bombarded by the Duke d'Estr6es. Mezzo-Morto was wounded, and il.
Piolle and forty Frenchmen wore blown from the mouths of cannon. From
this period to the end of the century the country was in a state of anarchy,
many Deys being appointed, and immediately afterwards assassinated. The
city was constantly ravaged by the plague, it being said that in 1698, 24,000,
and in 1702, 45,000 persons died of this malady.
The successive attempts of various European nations to suppress this nest
of rudiaus having thus proved completely futile, they were all in turn obliged
to buy peace, and even to submit to the additional disgrace of paying part of
their tribute in cannon, bombs, and other munitions of war. The conditions
imposed on the Danes may be cited as an instance in proof. Peace was
accorded to them only on condition of immediately delivering to the Dey
twenty 24-pounder guns, twenty I'i-pounders, four iron mortars, 6600 shells,
20,000 cannon balls, 20,000 lbs. of powder, 50 masts, 100 yards, 20,000 lbs. of
tar, 10,000 lbs. of resin, 2000 planks, 40 cables, and further paying him
annually, 10,000 lbs. of powder, 4000 balls, 25 masts, 50 yards,. 12 cables and
24 hawsers.
One can understand how, receiving such presents every year, frequently
augmented at the caprice of the Dey, the State of Algiers was able to
strengthen itself, so as to become the scourge of Europe.
In 1710 a new revolution gave to the Algerian Government the constitu-
tion which it continued to hold until the French conquest. The Janissaries
obtained the Sultan's consent that the Dey elected by themselves should be
named Pacha, and that the Sublime Porte should have no other representative
in Algiers. From this moment it became in reality an independent State, and
in connection with Constantinople was restricted to the despatch of a present,
its exchange for the Caftan of Investiture on the accession of a new Dey. In
the same year the Dey of Oran made an expedition against Algiers, but was
defeated on the banks of the Harrach, and beheaded.
1716. The town ])artially destroyed by an earthquake.
1719. Mohammed, Pacha Dey, renewed the treaty of peace with
France.
The year 1726 was celebrated for the unusual cold, Algiers being in that
winter covered with snow.
1732 to 1748. Ibrahim ben Ramdan, Pacha, during which period frequent
struggles with Tunis took place.
On the 1st of February 1748 Ibrahim ben Ramdan, Pacha of Algiers, died,
not without suspicion of poison.
1748 to 1754. To him succeeded Mohammcil Kodja, surnamcd the one
eyed, who had the reputation of being just, humane, and sujierior to all the
other aspirants to the throne.
In 1752 and 1753 there was a serious outbreak of plague at Algiers. In
April of the latter year 400 died in the city, in June 1700, and as many in
July, but it was much more at many other cities of the regency, especially
Djidjclly, La Callc, and Constantino. In 1754 and 1755 there were only a
few isolated cases at Algiers, but in 1756 this .scourge seemed inclined to make
48 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF AI/IKIUA AXI> TfXIS AJfJcHa
up for its inaction duriiif; tlic two previous years, aud liy the end of August
10,000 had died in the city alone.
1754 to 1706. On the 11th. of December 1754 the Dey and his Kliaznadar
were both assassinated, and Baba Ali was elected in the place of the former.
He was a man entirely wanting in good sense and capacity. He at once
recommenced the war with the Dutch, who were fain to conclude an onerous
and humiliating peace. He rendered himself popular by encouraging piracy
and other crimes. He took Tunis, which was given up to pillage. The
French consul was sent to the Bagnio, as many of his predecessors had been,
and only released on payment of a large sum of money. One of his successors
was similarly treated. The Bey required some of the European States to
renew their consuls every three years, on account of the presents which he was
accustomed to exact on such occasions ; and others, like Venice, he actually
compelled to pay him an annual tribute.
From 1762 to 1765 James Bruce of Kinnaird, the well-known African
traveller, held the office of British Consul-General at Algiers. After resigning
office he made extensive explorations in Algeria, Tunis, Tripoli, and the
Pentapolis, where he made accurate drawings of all the Roman remains of any
consequence in those countries. A selection of these was published, after
the lapse of more than a century.^
1766 to 1791. Baba Ali Dey died on the 2d February 1766, and was
quietly succeeded by Mohammed ben Osman, who had occupied the place ot
treasurer to his predecessor. He governed his people sagely and well during
twenty-five years, and did what a Dey of Algiers could to restrain the piratical
tendencies of his subjects within due limits.
In no former reign had there been so many conspiracies against the Dey's
life, but none of them were successful. He was exceedingly exacting in his
negotiations with European States, and managed under one pretext or another
to lay them all under contribution to him.
In 1775 took place the unfortunate Spanish expedition against Algiers,
commanded by the Count O'Reillj'. It consisted of 51 vessels and about
24,000 troops. They left Carthagena on the 23d June, and arrived before
Algiers on the 31st June and 1st August. They landed to the east of the
river Harrach, and the first division at once commenced its march towards the
town. They were so harassed, however, by the enemy, who had taken up
advantageous positions all along their route, that they became thoroughly
discouraged, and when subsequently they were charged by a troop of camels,
they retreated in the utmost confusion to their vessels. The loss acknow-
ledf'ed by the Spaniards was 218 officers and 2589 men killed and wounded,
besides which the army abandoned 18 pieces of artillery and a great number
of arms and munitions of war.
Another naval expedition was sent against Algiers in 1783, which
bombarded the town, killing about 300 persons and destroying about as many
houses. A third and even more futile attempt was made in the following year.
Subsequently, in 1785, they concluded a peace with the Dey, for which they
were content to pay a million piastres and a vast amount of military stores.
1 " Travels in the Footsteps of Bruce in Algeria and Tunis." By the Author.
Introd. § 8, historical notice of Algeria and tunis 4t)
111 April 17SG the plague aj,'ain lirokc out ; it lasted eifrlitecn months, and
carried off more than a third of the population. It was calculated that during
the first fifteen months 35,60U Mohammedans, 2300 Jews, and G20 Christian
slaves, in all 38,520, perished.
In 1789 the French entered into a new treaty with the Dcy at the price of
most humiliating concessions, the negotiators consoling themselves with the
fact that Louis XIV., after three expeditions against Algiers, had been com-
pelled to purchase an equally inglorious peace.
1791 to 1799. In July 1791 Mohammed ben Osman died, and Baba Hassan
was proclaimed Dey. His first act was to demand a frigate from the French
to convey his ambassador to Constantinople, and to inform the consuls that
in future the annual presents or tribute should be doubled. It never seemed
to occur to any European power to dispute the orders of this despot, although
compliance with them only made him the more exacting. Whenever he was
ill want of money he declared war on some European power, and forced it to
piiichasc peace <at an extravagant price. Venice, Spain, Holland, I'ortugal,
Denmark, and Naples, were thus treated, and even America followed their
example. Small wonder then that at this time the Dey's treasury was
reported to contain 4 millions sterling !
Nevertheless at this time the power of the Algerine State was by no means
rormidable. Shaw states that in 1732 they had onl}' half a dozen ships of
I'min thirty-six to fifty guns, and not half that number of brave and experi-
enced captains. The whole land force in Turks and Koulouglis was not more
than 6500, of whom one-third were old and worn-out, and though the seaward
defences were pretty strong and carefully looked after, those on the landward
side were ([uite insignificant. Even sixty years later, though they had
accumulated an immense supply of naval stores of all kinds, there is no rca.son
to supi)Ose that they were sulistantially stronger, or that any of the principal
nations of Euroi)e would have had the least difficulty in extirpating them.
The fact was that the nations of Europe were too much occupied in lighting
amongst themselves to be able to pay much attention to Algiers, and each was
very well content that the Algerincs should ])rey on the commerce of its
neighbours if only its own remained secure.
1799 to 1805. On the 15th ]\Iay 1799 Baba Hassan died, and was suc-
ceeded by his nephew Jlustafa, an ignorant and avaricious jierson, who com-
menced his reign by the jiillago of his predecessor's family, the consuls as
usual being laid under contribution. In 1800, in consequence of the French
occupation of Egypt, the Dey arrested all the consular establishment of that
nation, the priests and many others, who were at once put in chains, and
kept in the ]5agnio for thirty-three days. On the 30th September 1800 the
great Napoleon agreed to a peace at the price of oblivion for tlic past and a
jiaymunt of 300,000 piastres to the Dcy ; but this not being approved of by
t lie Sultan, the French con.snl and all his countrymen were ordered to quit
the regency, and left on the 30th January 1801. They were not allowed to
return till after the conclusion of the preliminaries of jieace between England
and Turkey on the one hand, and Fiance on the other, towards the end of
tin; year.
\_Ahjrri,i:\ V.
50 § H. UISToHlCAIi NOTICl'; OK ALUIOUIA AN1> TUNIS AhjClio,
Tlic United States liad at this time (1800) a coiisiduiable trade with the
Mediterranean, and the Algcrines were not backward in falling upon the
unsus2)ecting and unarmed Americans, cai)turing their ships and casting the
crews into bondage.
Immediately after tlie peace of 1783, when the United States became an
independent nation, Algiers declared war upon them. In 1785 two American
vessels were captured in the Atlantic Ocean. In 1793 eleven more prizes
were made, and then the number of American citizens in slavery at Algiers
exceeded a hundred. Colonel Humphreys, American minister at Lisbon, was
charged by the President to negotiate with the Barbary States, and he
despatched Mr. Joseph Donaldson for that purpose to Algiers. He then nego-
tiated a treaty of peace, by which the Americans bound themselves to pay to
the Dcy the sum of 721,000 dollars, partly as ransom for American captives,
and partly as gratification, presents, etc., to the Government of the regency.
It was further agreed that the American Government should pay an annual
tribute of 22,000 dollars in munitions of war and marine stores, which sum,
in consequence of the arbitrary value fixed on the various articles, was almost
doubled in reality.
In the month of October 1800 the United States 32-gun frigate George
Washington, commanded by Captain Bainbridge, was lying at anchor in the
roads of Algiers. The Dey considered this a fine opportunity to get the
presents which he, as well as the heads of the other regencies, annually paid
to the Sultan, conveyed to Constantinople. He made a requisition for the
services of the frigate for this purpose, and the commandant, though most
unwillingly, thought that he could not avoid performing the duty. This
conduct deeply wounded the susceptibility of the Americans, but the President
thought it more prudent to follow the example of older and richer States in
Europe, and make the best terms he could with the Algerines.
The influence of France now began to wane in Algiers. The defeat of
Trafalgar destroyed its marine and its commerce, and made England undis-
puted mistress of the seas. The French were expelled from La Calle, and the
exclusive privilege of coral fishing conceded to the English for a period of ten
years at a rent of 267,000 I. per annum.
ISOo to 1808. On the 12th of September 1805 Mustafa was murdered by
the Janissaries and replaced by Ahmed Khodja. The first thirty days of
his reign were marked by the spoliation of the Jews, and the most frightful
massacres ; the usual presents from the consuls were exacted with the utmost
rigour, and in one week he extorted from Spain 12,000 piastres, Holland
40,000, America 100,000, Austria 50,000, and England 10,000.
1808 to 1809. Ahmed Dey was killed on the 7th of November 1808 by the
relations of those whom he had massacred on his accession, just as he was
on the point of escaping to France with his ministei-s and treasures ; his
successor, Ali ben IMohammed, only lived a few months, being in his turn
assassinated on the 7th of February 1809.
1809 to 1815. Hadji Ali, his successor, commenced his reign with an act
tantamount to a declaration of war with France. He demanded an exorbitant
sum from the consul, and not only imprisoned him, but also M. de Bcrthcmy,
Introd. §8. historical notice OF Algeria and tun is 51
aide-de-camp to Napoleon, and M. Arago, the celebrated astrouomer, then on
a purely scientific niis.sion to Algiers. Tliey only purchased their release after
three months' captivity by the payment of a large sum of money.
1812. In 1812 the Government of Algiers again declared war on the
United States. It is believed that the Regency adopted this step on the
advice of certain Jews, who, seeing the increasing importance of the American
mercantile marine, thought that Algiers might as well obtain a share of this
commercial i)rosperity by the simi)le expedient of plunder. The moment
chosen for this step was the 17th July 1812, when the Allcg/ian;/, an Ameri-
can vessel, arrived at Algiers with the annual tribute. The Dey showed
the greatest dissatisfaction at the articles of which it was comi)osed. He
•ordered the consul to pay the tribute in money for the future ; and, together
with his family and all American citizens, to (|uit the regency by the 25th of
the same month. The consul did all he could to ])ersuade the Dey to recon-
sider this decision, but without effect ; he was actually compelled to leave.
In the month of September following an American vessel was captured, and
the President endeavoured in vain to obtain the release of the captives by
paying their ransom. The Dey refused to enter into any negotiation on the
subject, declaring that he considered American slaves as beyond [trice.
The Congress of the United States could no longer tolerate such behaviour
or support tlie idea of rem;iiiiii]g trihutaiy to Algiers. Accordingly, in J\lay
1815 Captains Bainbridge and Decatur and Mr. William Shaler were chosen
]iy the President to proceed to Algiers with a S(^uadron, and on their arrival
there they at once made a demand for a modification of all existing treaties.
The Algerines were confounded at this step, and, as it happened that all their
vessels were then out cruising, they accepted almost without discussion the
conditions dictated to them, and the treaty was signed on the 30th of June.
On the same day Mv. Shaler landed as Consul-General of the United States at
Algiers.
Commodore Decatur then proceeded towards Tripoli and Tunis, and com-
pelled the governments of those regencies to comjtly Avith his demands.
1815 to 1817. In the middle of March 1815 Hadji Ali was nmrdereu by
iiis soldiery, and his successor Mohammed only survived him a fortnight, he
having been arrested and strangled in prison. Omar ben Mohammed, Agha
<jf Si)ahis, was the next Dey. He was born in Mytelene, and was forty-three
years of age when he came to the throne. He is represented as having been
singularly handsome in appearance, and of great natural intelligence, sober
and continent in his life, and of a courage so renowned that it gained him
tlio name of "the terrible."
In the beginning of 181G Lord Exmouth was ordered to proceed to the
various 13arbary States to claim the release of all Ionian slaves who had then
become British subjects, and to make i-eace for Sardinia. He was also per-
mitted to nudve peace for any other States in the Alediterranean who should
wuthoiise him to do so. He had no difficulty in obtaining the liberation of
Die lonians, and he also effected the freedom of tiie Neapolitans anil Sar-
iliniaiis, the former paying a ransom of 500 and the latter 300 dollars a head.
The ileet then sailed for Tunis and Tiipoli, wheie Lord Exmouth eon-
na § 8. ITISTOmCAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS AUjalia
eluded treaties witli the Beys, entirely abolishing the institution of Christian
slavery.
He again visited Algiers and attempted to enforce a similar demand, hut
the Dey answered as a man confident in his strength to resist it. Lord
Exmoutli assured him that he formed a very inadequate idea of a British
man-of-war, and declared that if hostilities should become necessary he would
engage to destroy the place with five line-of-battle ships.
On his way back to the ship Lord Exmouth and suite were very roughly
handled Ijv the Algerines, but eventually the Dey consented to treat on the
subject in England and at Constantinojde. Lord Exmouth, having no author-
ity to enforce his demands, was fain to be content with this, and returned to
England. But before he ai-rived, news came that while he was still at
Algiers on the 23d of May, the crews of the coral fishing-boats at Bone had
gone on shore to attend mass, it being Ascension Day, when they were
attacked by a large body of Turks and barbarously massacred.
The British Government, justly considering that these barbarians, whose
existence was a reproach to the civilised world, had filled up the measure of
their crimes by this outrage, determined to exact complete submission or
inllict the most signal vengeance.
The ancient harbour of Algiers was then very much as it now appears in the
plan, without of course the jetties, which have been added by the French.
The entrance was not more than 120 yards wide. All around bristled with
fortifications and artiller}\ The lighthouse battery had 50 guns in three
tiers ; at the extremity of the rock was a battery with 30 guns and 7 mortars
in two tiers ; the mole itself was filled with cannon in a double tier ; the
eastern batteries next the lighthouse had an inner fortification with a third
tier of guns, making 66 guns in those batteries alone. The islet had in all
220 guns, besides 300 more in the various batteries along the coast-line oppo-
site to it.
Nelson, in a conversation with Captain Brisbane, had named 25 line-of-
battle ships as the force that would be required to attack them. Lord
Exmouth was offered any force he required, but he determined to take no
more than the number he had mentioned to the Dey, five ships of the line, to
which, however, were added three heavy and two small frigates, four bomb
vessels, and five gun-brigs.
On arrival at Gibraltar on the 5th of August he found a Dutch squadron,
consisting of five frigates and a corvette, commanded by Admiral van Capel-
lan, who, on learning the object of the expedition, solicited and obtained leave
to co-operate.
On the 27th the fleet arrived opposite Algiers, and a flag of truce was sent
on shore to communicate the ultimatum of the British Government, and
demand the immediate liberation of the consul, who had been imprisoned in
irons.
■ No answer was given, when the fleet bore up and each vessel proceeded to
take up its appointed station. The flag-ship, the Queen Charlotte, anchored
half a cable's length from the mole head, her port battery flanking the
batteries from the mole head to the lighthouse. A gun was now fired from
Introd. § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICK OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS T).?
the upper tier of the eastern battery, a secoud and a third followed, the
remainder beinj; drowned by the thunder of the Quren Charlotte's broadside.
The enemy now opened fire from all tlieir batteries, while the rest of the
Ihitish siiuadron took up their jiosition at the entrance to the mole. Tlie
Dutch s(iuadron with admirable fjallantry went into action under a heavy fire
before the works to the south of the town. On the opposite side of the lif,dit-
house were ]ilaced the bomb vessels, while the flotilla of gun, rocket, and mortar
l)oats was distributed between the line-of-battle sliips and the entrance to the
mole.
Soon after the battle became general, the enemy's flotilla of gunboats
advanced, when a single broadside sent 33 out of 37 to the bottom. The
whole of the Algerian frigates were burnt at their anchors and blown up, and
by ten o'clock at night it was felt that the objects of the attack had been
attained. Tlie fleet had fired 118 tons of powder, 50,000 shot (weighing more
than 500 tons of iron), besides 960 13- and 10-inch shells. The sea defences
of Algiers, with a great part of the town itself, were shattered and crumbled
to ruins. In the British ships 123 men were killed and 690 wounded, while
tlie Dutch had 13 killed and 52 wounded. Lord Exmouth escaped narrowly :
he was struck in three places ; a cannon shot carried aw-ay the skirts of his
coat, and another broke his glass. The losses of the Algerians were estimated
at 7000. On the following morning the Dey acceded to all Lord Exmouth's
demands, namely : —
1. The abolition of Christian slavery for ever.
2. Tli(^ delivery of all .slaves in the dominion of tlie Dey.
3. The repayment of all money received by him for the redemption of
slaves since the beginning of the year.
4. Reparation and a jiublic ai>ology to the consul.
Tlie total number of slaves liberated, including those freed a few weeks
before, were —
At Algiers 1612
Tunis ......... 781
Tripoli 580
Total . 3003
Tiie battle of Algiers forms a class by itself amongst naval victories ; it
was a new thing to place a fleet in a position surrounded by formidable
batteries. Nor was it less happy in its results : it broke the chains of thou-
sands, it gave security to millions, and it delivered Christendom from a
scourge and a disgrace.
1817 to 1818. On the 3d of September 1817 Omar Dey was murdered,
and succeeded by Ali Khodja, who, to save himself from sharing the fate of
so many of his predecessors, left his palace in tlic city and took up his resi-
dence in the Casba, at the summit of the town, whither, on the previous
Tiight, 350 mules had transported his treasure, estimated at 300 millions of
francs.
In the spring of 1818 the jilague again made its ai>pearanee, and amongst
its victims was tlio Dey, who died on the 1st of March.
54 §'8. TirsTouicAL NOTicK OF ALOKitrA AND Ti'Nis Alr/eria
1818 to 1830. No sooner was the breath out of liis body tlian tlio Divan
proclaimed Jlus.sc^iii-Kliodja, minister of the iiiterioi', Dey in his place, and
he was the last who ever sat on the throne. lie speedily turned his attention
to the reconstruction of the fleet burnt by Lord Exmouth, and in 1820 ho
had 44 vessels, manned by 1560 sailors.
Since the treaty made Ijy Lord Kxmouth the Dey found it impcssible
to obtain Christian slaves for his public works ; he was therefore driven to
fill his Bagnio with Kabyles, and even the private servants of the consuls
were not spared. The British consulate was violated in the search for
certain Kabyles ; this brought about a rupture between Great Britain and
Algiers, and the consul, Mr. McDonell, was forced to embark and leave the
place. In July 1824 a naval division of 6 sails appeared before the place,
while 10 more remained out at sea. There was a slight engagement which
lasted three hours, but the Dey persisted in his refusal to receive Mr.
McDonell. Algiers was blockaded till the 24th, when there was a second
engagement. Eventually the affair was patched up, and Admiral Sir H.
Neale, who commanded the squadron, made two concessions to the Dey, the
weaker that they were secret, — namely, that the British flag should not be
hoisted on the English consulate in Algiers, and that Mr. McDonell should
not return as consul.
When Mr. St. John succeeded him all the disgraceful ceremonies in the
intercourse between the representative of Great Britain and the Turkish
authorities were continued. The consul was obliged, the moment he came in
sight of the Dey's palace, to walk bareheaded in the hottest sun ; in waiting
for an audience he had to sit on a stone bench in the public passage ; he could
not wear a sword in the Dey's presence, nor ride to the palace, though his
own servants, if Mohammedans, might do so.
In spite of the chastisement inflicted by Lord Exmouth, and the daily
threat made by the representatives of European nations at Algiers, their
corsairs continued to infest the seas till the very last ; and after the abortive
attempt of the English to secure the return of their consul, the audacity and
perfidy of the Algerian Government knew no bounds, and the most solemn
treaties were regarded as so much waste paper.
The subject of the dispute which eventually accomplished its downfall
was the claim of a Jew named Bacri, on account of stores supplied to the
French Government during Napoleon's wars. This had been regulated by
common accord at 7 millions of francs ; and, at one of the interviews which
the consul had with the Dey on the subject, the latter is said to have struck
him on the face with his fan.
This conduct, for which he refused to make any reparation, served as an
excuse to the French Government to send an expedition against Algiers ; and
the town was blockaded during three years in so inefficient a manner as to
excite the ridicule of the Turkish officials.
On the 14th of June 1830 a French army, commanded by General de
Bourmont and Admiral Duperre, consisting of 34,000 men, landed, with little
opposition, at Sidi Ferruch. It is worthy of remark that all previous attack.s
on Algiers had been made from the east ; and that the suggestion to effect a
IilfrofJ. § 8. IITSTORICAI; NOTICE OF ALfiKIUA AND TUNIS r)5
laiidiufj at tliis point was lirst made in the work of Mr. Slialer, Consul-
General of tlie United States at Algieis,' a suf,'gestion whicli was followed
exactly by tlie invading force. On the lOtii of the same month the battle of
Staoueli was fought, and on the 24th that of Sidi Kiialcf.
On the 4th of July the French ariived in front of the town, and opened
(ire on Fort TEmpereur, which was abandoned at 10 a.m. by its garri.son, wlio
set lire to tiie powder magazine. The Dey now sent for tlie I'ritish Consul-
General, and requested lum to go to the French camp and ascertain tlie
commander-in-chiefs conditions.
These were that the town should be surrendered at 10 o'clock the next
morning, whereupon the Dey's person and property should be respected. On
the following day, 6tli July, the Dey signed this convention, and at 1 i'. M.
the French troops entered the town and took possession of the forts.
Hussein Pacha embarked at Algiers on the 10th, with a suite of 110
persons, of whom 55 were women. He first fixed his residence at Naples,
and subsequently at Leghorn, and eventually in Egypt. Mohammed All
Pacha received him with the consideration due to his rank and misfortunes,
when one day, after a private audience, Hussein retired to his private apart-
ments, and died, it is said, a few hours afterwards, in violent convulsions.
At the conquest the Regency was considered in a flourishing condition,
and nearly 2 millions sterling were found in the Turkish treasury, a sum
more than sufficient to defray the expenses of the war ; nevertheless the
united value of the imports and exports at Algiers did not then exceed
£175,000 iier annum. Algiers, Blidah, Cherchel, and BOne, were the only
really nourishing towns of the Deylick ; all the rest of the Tell, with the
exception of Kabylia, was occupied by the petty clients of a limited number
of rich families, who thought much more of defending their crops against the
attacks of their neighbours than of advancing the public prosperity. Each
tribe lived apart on its own resources, ever on the alert to repel assailants ;
there was no such thing as a commonwealth, no means of communication,
and hardly anj' commercial transactions.
The French army, being firmly established at Algiers, began at once to
extend its operations. General de Bourmont sent in the same month an
expedition to Blidah, and took temporary possession of Mersa el-Kebir to
the west, and Bune to the east. Upon the revolution of July, and Louis
Pliilippe's acceptance of the crown, it became doubtful whether the conquest
of Algeria would be carried on, and the generals withdrew their troojis from
all the towns excepting Algiers. In September, however. Marshal Clauzel,
under the orders of the new authority in France, replaced General de Bour-
mont. The policy of Marshal Clauzel was to place tributary Beys in the
different towns ; but the natives, who had at first received the French without
.susjiicion, now made a vigorous resistance.
The most serious opponent whom the French had to encounter was the
well-known Abd-el-Kader, a man described by Marslial Sonlt as one of the
only three great men tiicn living, all Mohammedans, tlie other two being
Mohammed Ali, Pacha of Egypt, and Schamyl.
I "Skctclicsof AlRicra." n<ist.>ii, lS2fi,
56 § 8. irisTOiaoAT, notick op alokrta and tunis Ahjerm
Ah(l-(;]-Kailer was Itoni in 1808, in tho plains of Gliris, near Waskara.
His I'atlicr, Malu-ed-Deen, belonged to a family of Cher/a, or descendants of
tlio I'ropliet, and was liiniself renowned throughout Nortliern Africa for the
piety of his life and his active charity.
When Abd-el-Kader was about 19 years of age his father took him to
perform the pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, and to visit the tomb of Sidi
Abd-el-Kader El-Djilani, at Baghdad. Tln-y performed a second pilgrimage
to Mecca and Medina, and returned to their native country after an aVj.sence
of two years.
After the fall of Algiers, the order which the Turks had managed to
preserve by terror amongst the Arab tribes gave place to anarchy ; one tribe
rose against another, private vengeance or a thirst for plunder filled the
country with marauders, the markets were abandoned, well-disposed persons
withheld their produce, and fainine threatened to succeed plenty.
The inhabitants of Tlem^en implored the Sultan of Morocco to send a
prince of his family to become their Sultan, but the diplomatic efforts of the
French prevented the realisation of this project. Si Mahi-ed-Deen was next
proposed, but he excused himself on account of his great age, and all he
would consent to do was to take command of the Arab tribes sent to disturb
the French in their new possession, Oran. Here it was that Abd-el-Kader
began to be distinguished, and before he had attained his twenty-fourth year
he was hailed by the warlike tribes of Hachems and Beni Anier as their
Sultan, and immediately proceeded to Maskara to proclaim and preach the
Djchdd — holy war against the intidel. Thence he despatched his emissaries
to invite all the tribes around to send contingents to his forces, and appointed
January 1833, before the walls of Oran, as the time and place for opening the
campaign. He expected that few save his own followers would accept the
invitation, but he made his attack nevertheless, and though he was repulsed
he proved his own earnestness, and sealed, as it were, the covenant with the
blood of his family, his nephew having been killed by the French. The next
few months were occupied by him in attempting to bring about a spirit of
unity amongst his tribes ; and his absence from the neighbourhood of Oran
induced the commandant of that place, General Desmiehels, to commence the
offensive, which he did by the occupation of Arzeu and Mostaganem. Abd-el-
Kader tried in vain to prevent it, and spent the rest of 1833 in consolidating
his own power by the occupation of the important city of Tlem(;en. A series
of engagements followed, and prisoners were captured on both sides ; the first
overtures of peace, however, came from the French ; and on the 4th of Feb-
ruary 1834 a treaty was concluded between General Desmiehels and Abd-el-
Kader, in which the position of the Emir was distinctly recognised, but no
recognition on his part of the sovereignty of France was even implied. The
form of the treaty displayed the most culpable negligence ; each of the con-
tracting parties drew uj) a paper of conditions, which was signed by the
opposite party ; and it was only the French paper, signed by the Emir, which
received the ratification of Louis Philippe. This was, however, unknown to
Abd-el-Kader, who believed that his terms were as binding on the French as
their terms were on him.
Introd. § 8. historical xotick of Algeria and tcxis 57
The Emir liad now time to tuni liis undivided attention to the oif^an isation
of his own government ; he received considerable presents of arms and ammu-
nition from the Frencli, and began to raise a standing army, and to crush one
by one the rivals who had hitherto refused to recognise his supremacy ; and
in a short time he was undisputed master of the entire province of Oran,
which he held not so much by his sword as by the love and admiration of all
those wise enough to prefer order to anarchy.
The tribes in the other provinces began to turn their eyes towards so
j)rudent and powerful a chief. A deputation from Medeah implored him
to undertake the government of Titeri, which he did, and installed Khalifas
of his own as governors of Slilianah and Medeah. To tlie latter place the
Governor-General d'Erlon sent a mission under Captain St. Hippolyte, with
piesents, olfering to substitute another treaty for that concluded by General
Dcsmichels. The Emir suddenly resolved to return to Maskara, and induced
the French mission to return in his suite, which produced an immense eflect
in his favour amongst the Arab tribes. Immediately on his arrival there he
dismissed the mission with a statement of the conditions on which he would
consent to treat with the Governor-General, which were in effect a mere
revival of those in the Desnuchels treaty.
It was not long after tliis ere hostilities again broke out between Al)d-el-
Kader and the French ; the pretext was alforded by two important tribes
placing themselves under the protection of the French at Oran, which was
considered by the Emir as a breach of existing conventions.
nien came the disastrous expedition against Constantino (q.v.), and
shortly afterwards the celebrated treaty of the Tafna (30th May 1837), by
which France abandoned to the Emir nearly the whole of the province of
Oran and two-thirds of that of Algiers, reserving only to themselves Oran,
Mostaganem, and Arzeu, with their territories in the former ; and in the
latter Algiers, the Sahel, and the Metidja, including Koleah and Blidali.
This state of things could not last long, and when the French had taken
Constantine, a dispute regarding the limits of the Metidja and the advance
of the army under Marshal Val6e and the Due d'Orlcans through the Fortes
de Fer, were considered by the Emir as a breach of the treaty. The French
were nothing loth to extricate themselves from a position which had become
exceedingly inconvenient, and on their part commenced olfensive operations.
Once more Abd-el-Kader raised the standard of a holy war, and massacres
of Europeans took place throughout Algeria. In return the French generals
extended their conquests on every side. Cherchcl fell, Medeah and Milianah
were once more occupied, and a desultory warfare was carried on till 1841,
when General Bugeaud became governor. He commenced a campaign in
which tlie Prince de .Joinville and the Dues d'Aumale and de Nemours served
under him. In July Tekedemt, Bokhari, Ta/.a, and Saida, towns on which
Abd-el-Kader depended, were destroyed, and he was hunted through the
country, till, his camp being taken, he was driven to take refuge in Morocco
at tlie end of 1843. The Sultan of that country made him caliph of one of
his border provinces, and his attacks upon the French while in this jwsition
involved his protector in a war. This war terminated in a great victory
58 § 8. HISTORFCAL NOTICE OF ALOKRIA AND Tt'NlS Alrjeria
of tlie Ficucli, 1 ILli Aii;^iist 1844, wliere General Jjiigeaud won fur liiniself
llic title of Due (I'lsly, and, by a treaty in March 1845, Ahd-el-Kader
lost his asylum in Morocco. He did not on this aecount relinquish liis
endeavours to harass the invaders of his native fountry, hut took advaiitaf^e
of the discontent which was fomented in Algeria by Bou-Maza (the man
with the goat) to join forces with him ; and when his partisans were crushed
at the combat of Ain-Kebira, 13th October 1845, he sought the support of
a new Sultan of Morocco. This ally was defeated, 24th March 1846, by
General Cavaignac, and Abd-el-Kuder, deserted by his adherents, who began
to lose their superstitious reverence for him and to tire of his imposts, was
driven from mountain to mountain, showing to the last an indomitable
courage. Surrounded on every side by enemies, and with numbers reduced
to his mere personal following, he gave himself up, on 21st December 1847,
to General de Lamoriciure, at Sidi Brahim, His submission was received by
the Due d'Aumale, then governor of Algeria, on the 23d ; and two days later
he was despatched to Toulon with his family and servants. He remained there
till 2d November 1848, when he was removed to the castle of Amboise, near
Tours, and was released by Louis Napoleon, 16th October 1852, after swearing
on the Koran never again to disturb Algeria. He went at first to Broussa,
and being driven thence by an earthquake, went to Constantinople, and
subsequently settled at Damascus, where he died.
The struggles of the natives did not cease with the subjection of Abd-el-
Kader, though previously Si Hamed-ben-Salem, his caliph, and Bel-Kassem,
second in command, had given themselves up ; and in the same year Bou-
Maza and Mulai Mohammed, an agitator of Kabylia, surrendered, and
promised to use their influence on the side of peace. The troubles in France
during 1848 encouraged the Arabs to make fresh efforts in all the three
provinces, but they were put down by timely severities. The hardy natives
of Kabylia continued to give the most trouble, and the successive expeditions
against them might be illustrated by as many tales of daring and devotion as
of cruelty. It was not till the end of 1857 that the French spoke of the
mountainous region as entirely subject to them. Among the generals who
rendered themselves celebrated in these campaigns are the names of Chan-
garnier, Cavaignac, Pelissier, Canrobert, Saint- Arnaud and MacMahon. The
resistance each year grew less and less, and the colonists were established on
a firmer footing.
The years 1866 and 1867 were the most disastrous since the French con-
quest. A prolonged and excessive drought produced a failure of crops all over
the country ; dried up the sources of the springs ; whole tribes were deprived
of their means of subsistence, while the stagnant and polluted water, which
alone they could procure for drinking purposes, induced a visitation of cholera
which carried off tens of thousands.
One of the severest invasions of locusts ever known, which occurred in
1866, caused the destruction of much of what the drought had spared, and in
January 1867 an earthquake destroyed several villages in the Jletidja, and
seriously injured many more. Not less than 200,000 perished during these
two years from the effects of pestilence and famine,
Jitfrod. § 8. HISTORICAL XOTICR OF ALGERIA AXD TUXLS 59
In 1871 a serious insurrection broke out, but before commencing a narra-
tive of it, it is necessary to glance at the state of Algeria and the events
which transi>ircd there after the declaration of war between France and
Germany. At that iieriod the colony was perfectly tranquil, and even the
defeats sustained by French arms in the opening battles of the campaign did
not materially alter the aspect of affairs, but rather created a desire amongst
the native races to avenge their brethren who had fallen fighting side by
side with their conquerors. But after Sedan a ver}' marked change began to
appear. The fall of the Emperor was sincerely regretted bj' the great Arab
chiefs, who had been his honoured guests at Compiegne ; while the excited
condition of the public press, and the impolitic measures of the government
of Tom's and Bordeaux, especially the naturalisation en masse of the Jewish
inhabitants, inspired them with serious fears for their own position.
On the other hand the colony was entirely denuded of troops, and the old
and experienced officers of the Bureau Arabe had almost all quitted their
posts for active service in France.
The first act of the insurrection took place in January 1871, at Souk
Ahras, where a Smala of Spahis mutinied, and being joined by the adjacent
tribes, more or less connected with them by family ties, devastated the farms
around, murdered some of the colonists, and endeavoured ineffectually to
obtain possession of the town. The insurgents were speedily repulsed by a
column from BOne, and obliged to seek refuge in Tunis.
About the same time the wandering tribes occupying the Oued-el-Kebir
l)etween Philijipeville and the sea broke out and attacked the little town of
El-Mila; a detachment from Collo soon suppressed the disturbance. No
sooner was it put down than it broke out again iu the south and south-east,
where Mahi-ed-Deen, son of the Emir Abd-el-Kader, and Ben Chohra, an old
Algerian insurgent who had taken refuge in Tunis, had circulated letters
amongst the tribes exciting them to revolt. The column which had lestored
order at El-Mila marched to the frontier, overthrew the rebels before Tcbessa,
and drove their leaders to the south.
This insurrection could not fail to produce a corresponding effect in the
ilesert ; old family feuds and rivalries broke out under the pretext of com-
bating the insurrection, one chief waged war .against another; numerous
razzias were made, and very soon the whole Sahara was iu flames.
Tuggurt was besieged by the Cherif Bou Choucha, as was also Ouargla ;
the garrison of the former place was massacred, the property of the State was
plundered, and order was not perfectly restored there till quite the end of the
year, when all the rest of the country had been pacified. Bou Choucha
remained at liberty in the oases of Ain Salah till April 187-1, when he was
taken prisoner by Said, brother of the Aglia of Ouargla.
This insurrection was embarrassing to the French, but it was not of ex-
treme gravity, as the events of the south, dependent as it is for supidies on
the Tell, can never exercise a serious influence on the general condition of
Algeria. The situation of tlic colony therefore was critical, but not seriously
com])romised, when the preliminaries of jieacc with Genuany were signed.
Already some troops had arrived, and the return of the prisoners of war would
60 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF AI.GKIUA ANT) TUNIS Alf/cria
soon iilact! ;iii aimy of .sua.souud voteiaiis at tlie di.sitosal of France. This
was the time selected for the outbreak of a violent a;;gression, wliich might
have lieun serious some months before, but of wliicli tlie issue could never be
doubtful from the moment that France was able to dispose of all her resources.
Tlie all'airs of the Commune at Paris might have insjured some hope of suc-
cess, but this could not have been foreseen when the events about to be related
occurred.
The village of Bordj-bou-Arreredj, the scene of the first serious devasta-
tion of the insurgents, is situated about 72 kilometres from Setif, ■, in the
middle of the tribe of the Hachems, and is the European centre nearest to the
territory in which Si Mohammed ben El-Hadj Ahmed El-Mokraui exercLsed
his authority.
He had been for many years Kaid of his tribe, but to augment his prestige,
and in the hope of making him a faithful vassal of France, he was promoted
to the dignity of Bach-Agha of the iledjana. His influence was very great :
he was an intimate personal friend of some of the most distinguished French
generals, and had been a frequent guest at the imperial fetes at Compiegne.
He, like many others, took great umbrage at the changes which had taken
place in the government of Algeria, especially at the substitution of a civil
commissaire of the republic for a governor -general such as Marshal de
ftfacMahon ; and when a decree was signed by M. Cremieux cii'cumscribing
his command, and constituting part of his territory civil, he is said to have
exclaimed: " H' my position is to depend on a Jew I renounce it, though I
am willing to support anything from one who wears a sword, even if he iise
it on me." Another cause which probably led this great chief into rebellion
was the embarrassed condition of his alfairs. Treated like a prince in Paris,
he had spent large sums of money in the most lavish manner ; loan succeeded
loan ; ruin ajipeared inevitable ; and he not improbably hoped in some
manner, hardly defined to himself, to retrieve his position by force of
arms. ,
Another great chief was Si Mohammed Said ben Ali Cherif, Bach-Agha of
Chellata, possessing almost as much influence in Kabj'lia as Mokrani did in
the Medjana, and far more venerated than he, being the lineal descendant of a
celebrated saint. He had, however, of late years lost a considerable amount
of his prestige, and with it the ofi"erings which the faithful used to bring to the
shrine of Chellata, owing to the correspondingly increased power obtained by
the superior of the order of Klwuans, the chief of the religdous confraternity
of Sidi Mohammed bou Koberain, the Sheikh Mohammed Amzian ben Ali
el-Haddad, or the blacksmith. The sons of this Sheikh, M'ahmed and Azziz,
enjoyed nearly as great power as their father : the former, a religious fanatic,
had already played a part in a previous insurrection ; the latter — younger, dis-
sipated, and ambitious — was ready to join in any scheme likely to gratify his
vanity or increase his importance.
It was necessary, however, for the common cause that the old rivalry
l>etween these two houses should disappear, and through the mediation of
Mokrani a reconciliation took place between Ben Ali Cherif and Ben el-
Haddad. It was then arranged that Mokrani should be chief of the plain, Si
Introd. § 8. historical notice of Algeria and tunis 61
Azziz of the insurgents, and that Ben AH Clierif should remain witli the
Frcncli authorities at Algiers, to communicate all that transpired there.
On the 18th February five Europeans were murdered at the Fortes de Fer,
where some roadmaking was going on, and a month later Mokrani sent in
his resignation as Bach-Agha, and followed this up by a fonnal declaration
of war.
He then laid siege to the town of Bordj-bou-Arrerudj, pillaged all the
outlying farms and buildings, and even drove the garrison into the fort,
whereupon the town was occupied by the enemy, plundered, and set on fire.
Tlie insurgents adopted every means, some of them, such as mining, hitherto
unheard of in Arab warfare, to reduce the place, but in vain. After a siege
of twelve days, during which time there was much bloodshed and suffering,
and the town reduced to a heap of ruins, the fort was relieved by a column
from Setif.
It would be tedious to follow all the operations which ensued. Mokrani
succeeded in destroying isolated posts and houses, burning villages, and
massacring colonists surprised in the ojicn country or on the roads ; but all his
efforts to take fortified places failed, and everywliere in the field his men were
defeated with great slaughter. The French, at one time reduced to the de-
fensive, had begun to assume the offensive — it was at this moment, when the
insurrection appeared almost overcome, that, like a train of gunpowder, it
spread over Kabylia at the voice of the Sheikh el-IIaddad.
This remarkable man was held in the utmost veneration from Jlorocco to
Tunis : his limbs were completely paralysed ; he had passed the last twenty
years of liis career in a small, dark, filthy cell, where the pious came in
crowds to see him through a small window in the side, happy if they were
permitted to kiss the hem of his garment.
His sons placed themselves at the head of vast hordes of Kabyles. Bougie,
the seaport of the district, was besieged and entirely cut off from all com-
munication with the interior, from the ISth April to the 30th June. The
farms, oil mills, public buildings, and everything belonging to Christians
throughout Kabylia, were destroyed. Dellys and Djidjelly were in like
manner invested, and all the outlying farms ruined. Fort National (then
called Fort Napoleon), tlie French stronghold in Western Kabylia, supported
a siege of sixty-three days with great courage and endurance. The garrison
of Tiziouzou was likewise blockaded in the fort, and the village destroyed.
The village of Palaestro was attacked and burnt after a short but heroic
resistance ; nearly all the males, fifty-four in number, were massacred, and
forty individuals, of whom thirty-two were women and children, were carried
off, and only released at the termination of the campaign, after twenty-two
days' captivity.
But now the affairs of the Commune at Paris being over, reinforcements
began to arrive from France, the beleaguered towns were relieved, the prin-
cipal leaders were taken prisoners, and such as escaj)ed were pursued as far as
the desert, when they were forced to surrender.
The decisive battle of Mokrani's campaign took i)lace at Souflat, thirty
miles from Palaestro, where his forces were routed and lie hinisflf killed.
G2 § 8. HISTORICAL NOTiCK OF ALoiiUiA AND TUNIS Algeria,
His death was as noble as his life had heen ; he had promised General
Dnrrieu, the acting; Governor-General, that he would remain faithful to France
so long us she should be at war, and it was not till peace had been signed that
lie sent a formal declaration of war, resigned his functions, gave up his cross
of the Legion of Honour, and permitted forty-eight hours to elapse before com-
mencing hostilities. Now that he had staked and lost Ids all, pursued in
every direction by French columns, seeing that the whole colony was being
covered with troops, nothing remained for him but an honourable death. He
descended from his horse at the battle of Soufiat, and on foot at tlie head of
his men he fell pierced with a ball in the forehead.
One more outbreak took place to the west of Algiers, in the mountain
district inhabited by the Beni Manassir, between ililianah and the sea.
Cherchel was blockaded for a month. The inland village of Zurich, which
had been hurriedly protected by a stockade, was gallantly defended during
many days by thirty militia and forty military prisoners, most of whom were
enfeebled by fever ; but, despite the vast dispaiity of combatants, every
village, however slightly fortified, held out successfully, though all the inter-
vening farms, about eighty in number, were sacked and destroyed, and the
guardians murdered.
By the middle of August 1871 the insurrection was thoroughlj^ extin-
guished, and such of the principal leaders as were not killed in action Avere
reserved for future trial, and those who had not participated in any actual
massacres were treated with great leniency.
The submission of the revolted tribes, however, was only accepted on the
condition that they should consent to disarmament and to the imposition of a
war contribution, which was fixed at 30 millions of francs. A general seques-
tration of landed property was also ordered, but the owners were permitted to
resume possession of it in many instances on comparatively easy terms. From
this a liberal allowance was made to those who had lost either property or near
relatives in the insurrection. The farms and villages were rebuilt on a better
scale, the population was increased by the arrival of numerous immigrants,
principally from Alsace and Lorraine, and numerous centres were created even
in the heart of Kabylia.
An insurrection broke out in the Aur^s mountains in May 1879, in the
territory of the Touaba, or Oulad Daood ; it was headed by an obscm-e Mara-
bout named Mohammed bin Abdulla, imam of the Mosque of Hammama, who
succeeded in collecting round him a band of discontented Chaouia and vagabonds
of all sorts. The commandant of Batna sent two native horsemen to apprehend
him, which they actually did, but they were cut to jneces by his followers,
and the Marabout was rescued. This was the commencement of hostilities.
The insurgents then attacked the Smala of Si el-Hachemi, son of the Kaid
Bou-Dhiaf, at Medina ; he was not strong enough to resist them, and retired
to Batna. They then proceeded to the village of T'Kout, in the Bordj of
which resided the Kaid Bachtarzi, him also they killed, but they spared his
followers, on condition that they recognised the divine mission of the Mara-
bout. On this becoming known at Batna, the commandant ordered Si Bou-
Uhiaf, Kaid of the Oulad Daood, to proceed against the insurgents. He had
Jntrotf. § 8, HI.STORICAL NOTICE OF ALGERIA AND TUNIS 03
no force save twenty or thirty followers, to whom were adJed an officer of the
IJiireau Arabe, and a few Spahis. On the night following their arrival at their
lirst halt, near Hannnania, they were attacked by the Marabout's forces, and
although Bou-Dhiaf defended himself with the traditionary courage of his
race, killing four enemies with his own hands, he was slain, and his troops
had to retreat, leaving their dead, wounded, and baggage in the hands of the
insurgents. Emljoldened by success, they proceeded to attack the Bordj of
Si Bel Abbas, Kaid of the Oulad Abdi ; he himself was absent, but it was
occuiiied by his son Si Lahsen and a few retainers. It was speedily taken,
and the young chief aiul his retainers were massacred. Recruits now began
to join the standard of the Marabout from every direction, but the authorities
were alive to the importance of the movement, and columns began to advance
towards the Aures from Constautine, Batna, and Biskra. An action took
[ilace at El-Arbaa, between an advance guard of the Batna column and 1500
insurgents ; the latter were comjdetely routed, leaving 400 of their number
dead on the field. The French penetrated to the very heart of the mountains,
pacified the country, and compelled its inhabitants to agree to the terms ])ro-
posed by the Governor-General, namely, the delivery of hostages, the pay-
ment of an indemuit}', and the surrender of the principal instigators. The
insurgents fled before the French troops to the south, till at last in an
attempt to reach Negrine the remainder of these unfortunates, to the number
of three or four hundred, perished of thirst and fatigue in the Sahara. The
.Marabout succeeded in reaching the Djereed of Tunis, but he was subse-
([uently delivered up to the French, and, with his princijial accomplices, was
tried by a court-martial at Constautine. He and twelve others were con-
demned to death, twenty-si.x to various periods of imprisonment, and sixteen
were acquitted.
In 1879 a commission was formed at Paris to study the question of railway
communication between Algeria and Senegal by the Soudan ; several .scientific
expeditions were organised ; amongst others, Colonel Flatters explored the
country between Tuggurt and the '26th degree of X. latitude. In the following
year he was again sent to complete the task which he had so successfully
commenced. His mission left Ouargla on the 4th of December 1880, and
consisted of 11 French, 47 native tirailleurs, 32 camel drivers, 8 Chamba
guides, and a certain number of Touaregs, together with 100 riding camels
and 180 camels of burden. It followed the Oued Mya, and thence directed its
course towards the Sebkha of Amad-Ghor, passing by Hassi-ilesseguem and
Aniguid ; up to that time everything went well, and the last news received
from it was dated '29th January 1881.
On the '28th of March following, four of the survivors reached Ouargla,
and brought tlie intelligence that at four days' march from Hassiou, Colonel
Flatters had been led into an ambush, that jiart of the mission had been
mas.sacred, and that all the camels had been carried off. The survivor.s, fifty-
six in number, of whom five were French, endeavoured to retreat to Ouargla,
a distance of 1500 kilometres, without means of transport, and almost witli-
out provisions. Hanussed by the Touaregs, and dying of hunger, they lost
many of their number, but the debris of the mission still continued to
(M § 8. IIISTORTCAL NOTrCIO OF ALGKRIA AND TUNIH Algeria
advance, nndfr tlio noiniiiand of Mareclial-dcs-Lo;(is Pobcguin, the last sur-
viving Frencliuian. Tlie Klialifa of Oiiargla liastened to send out an expedi-
tion in search of these unfortunate people ; they were found in the month of
April at Hassi-Mcsseguem ; tlje party then eonsisted only of twelve ; no
Frenchman had survived. In addition to these twelve men and the Chamba
guides, who had disappeared on the day of the massacre, seventeen men
turned U]) afterwards.
Shortly after this the assassination of Lieutenant Weinbrenner became the
signal for assassination in the south of Oran. A clandestine emigration was
observed in the direction of the Tunisian Djereed ; in May disturbances were
signalled in Djebel Amour, and a small column was sent out from El-Aghouat
in the direction of Aflou and Tadjerouna. It here received considerable rein-
forcements, and inflicted a severe lesson on the El-Aghouat Ksel, which
restored confidence amongst the tribes in the department of Algiers. Thi.s
was followed by the despatch of a column to visit .successively M'zab, Metleli,
Goleah, and Ouargla ; it returned to El-Aghouat on the 1st of February.
Early in April the Bach-Agha of Frendah reported to the French authorities
that disaffection existed amongst the tribes at Tiaret, Geryville, and Saida,
and that it was being fomented by a Marabout named Bou-Amama Bel-Arbi,
who belonged to the great religious family of the Oulad Sidi Clicikh. This
fanatic gave himself out as the agent of God destined to drive the French out
of the country of the Arabs : orders were given to arrest him, and it was in
attempting to execute these that an officer of the Bureau Arabe at Geryville,
M. Weinbrenner, was massacred, with nearly all his escort, on the 22d of
April ; at the same time the telegraph between Geryville and Frendah was
■ cut. This was the signal for a general insurrection in the south ; fjoums, or
columns of Arab horsemen, sent to attack the insurgents, deserted to or fled
before them. On the 11th and 12th of June they made a rapid attack on the
workmen, nearly all S]ianish, engaged in collecting Alfa grass to the south of
Saida, and massacred great numbers of them. This created a panic amongst
the Spanish colony, and in a few days 10,000 of them fled from Algeria to
their native country, whence, however, they very soon returned.
In July the welUknown Si Suleiman ben Kaddour appeared on the scene,
and collected around him many tribes which had not joined Bou Amama, and
thenceforth he became the veritable chief of the insurrection.
Military operations against the Arabs at such a time and place were
almost impossible. As soon as the weather began to get cool, expeditionary
columns scoured the country in every direction, and did what was practicable
towards restoring order, but the chiefs of the insurrection never were captured.
In one of these expeditions Colonel Negrier committed an act which the
Arabs will never pardon or forget ; he destroyed the tomb of Sidi Cheikh, the
great saint of the Sahara, and transported his ashes to Geryville. This act
gained him great popularity with the extreme party in Algeria, and it was
never formally repudiated by Government ; but some time after the tomb was
reconstructed, and the saint's bones once more deposited in it, at the expense
of the State.
In November 1SS2 the territory of the Beni M'Zab (see pp. 11, 19) was
Introd. § 9. goveunmknt of algkria 65
annexed to Alf^cria, and taken possession of by a column under the command
of General the Prince de la Tour d'Auvergne. The reason assigned was that
sanguinary struggles were constantly taking pliice tlicre, and that it liad
become a rallying point for all the disaffected tribes in the south.
§ 0. Government of Alceiua.
Before the German war the military rule in Algeria had as an essential
character the union of the command of the troops and the political and
administrative authority in one person. This regime reached its culminating
point under Marshal dc ilacMahon in the subordination of the prefects to the
generals commanding the divisions or provinces, but its want of success ended
iu predisposing the Curps LtgislatiJ against it, and in the session of 1870 it
was decided to introduce to a certain extent civil government. The revolution
of September 1870 hastened the fall of the military authoritj', and the Govern-
ment of the National Defence fixed the basis of civil government, and removed
Algeria from the control of the Minister of War. The office of sub-governor
was entirely abolished, and a civil governor-general appointed, under whom
tlu; government of the whole colony was centralised at Algiers. At first
a separate general officer was appointed to command the entire military and
naval forces, having under him generals commanding the three provinces.
Subsequently, the first appointment was abolished, and each of the generals
commanding provinces was made independent of any central authority and
subject only to the Minister of War in Paris. The inconveniences of this
system were so strongly felt during the administration of the first civil
governor, that although the principle was not modified, a military oflicer.
General Chanzy, was appointed to the office of civil governor-general, and
invested witli the chief command of the military and naval forces.
On the fall of Marshal de ilacMahon's government, M. Albert Gr^vy was
sent as civil governor-general and commandant dcs forces dc Urrc tt dc mer.
He was received with enthusiasm by the colony, not only on account of his
relationship to the President of the Eepublic, but as the representative of an
entirely new state of things, to introduce civil government and the common
law in supersession of the arbitrary rule of the Bureau Arabe. On his
departure, after two years and a half government, it was the universal opinion
of the colony that his resignation was the only satisfactory act of his career.
He was succeeded by M. Tirman, who was not invested with any military
powers.
The old institution of Bureaux Arabcs, now called the Service dcs Affaires
Ltdigencs, was placed, by a decree dated 12tli May 1879, under his direct
control, although a small and yearly decreasing extent of territory is still
administered by the military authorities, represented by the commandant of
the l!Hh Army Corps.
This service consists of — 1. A Central Bureau at Algiers ; 2. Divisional
lUueau.K at Algiers, Oran, and Constantine ; 3. Sub-divisional Bureaux ; 4.
Bureaux of Circles ; and 5. Bureaux of Annexes. The departments of tlio
Interior, .Justice, Public Worship, Finance, Postes, Public Instruction, Com-
[Alycria.] P
66 I §9. GOVERNMENT OF ALGERIA AUjerui
ineicc, Ayricultuii', ami Fublic Works, are each unilcr tlieir respective
Ministers in Paris; but tlieso have conferred on the governor- general the
power to dispose of the wliolc or part of the credits given to them Ijy the
budget in order to proviile for tlie expenses of tlie government-general in
Algeria.
Each of the three provinces or departments is administered by a prefect,
as in France, but always under the superior authority of the governor-
general'.
The governor-general is further assisted by a council of government com-
posed of the principal civil and military authorities, which studies the various
projects brought forward, and gives its advice to the Government ; a superior
council, meeting once a year, to which delegates are sent by each of the pro-
vincial general councils, is charged with the duty of discussing and voting
the colonial budget.
Algeria sends tliree senators and six representatives to the National
Assembly — namely, one of the former and two of the latter for Algiers, Oran,
and Constantine.
Each department or province in Algeria has a general council composed
exclusively of French and natives ; the foreign element permitted under the
Empire is now excluded. The number of each council is fixed at 36 — namely,
30 ordinary members, French citizens, elected in Algeria, and 6 native asses-
sors, named by the Minister of the Interior.
In the growing necessity which is now felt for extending civil government
in Algeria, the rule played by the army in times past should never be over-
looked ; its results are written in the great works everywhere carried out by
it. After the conquest it pacified the country, and gave its first administra-
tion, such as it was, and such as circumstances permitted. Now that mission
is to a certain extent accomplislied ; still purely civil government is only
practicable in the districts entirely pacified, and containing a considerable
European element.
The military force in Algeria constitutes the 19th Corps d'Armee of France.
In time of war it can be divided in two ; 8 regiments of infantry, 2 regiments
of artillery, 2 of cavalry, 1 battalion of engineers, can be mobilised and used
for active operations in Europe. It consists of 4 regiments of Zouaves, 3 regi-
ments of Tirailleurs indighies, 6 battalions of Chasseurs a pied, 3 battalions of
Infanteric legire d'A/rique, 1 Foreign Legion — in all 53 battalions of infantry ;
4 regiments of Chasseurs d'A/rique, 3 regiments of Spahis, 1 brigade of
Hussars — in all 52 squadrons ; 16 batteries of Artillery, and a certain number
of Companies of Discipline. In 1884 the effective of all these forces amounted
to 53,647 men and 14,850 hoi'ses. Frenchmen born in the country, or elect-
ing to reside in it for ten years, are only compelled to serve one year in the
army instead of the longer period in force in France.
Of this force the only strictly local and native forces are the Spahis and
Tirailleurs indigenes, or Turcos. The latter approach veiy nearly to the
Native Infantry in India, the former to the Irregular Cavahy.
Of the Spahis a certain number are stationed iu advanced posts in mili-
tary territory, where each man (with the exception of such Europeans as may
Introd.
§10. SPORT
67
join the corps and officers) has a piece of ground allotted to him, wliich he is
permitted to cultivate for his own use, free of taxation ; the other squadrons
are lodged in government barracks. TJie regiments are recruited liy volun-
teers, who may be either married or single, but no difference is made in their
duty on this account ; they must also eacdi have a good horse and j)roduee a
certificate of unexceptionable conduct. The period of service is four years,
which may subsequently be extended by periods of from two to four years.
No squadron can be composed of natives belonging exclusively to one tribe.
Before they can be admitted to squadrons located in Stmilas as above
described, they must have served at least two years in barracks. Frenchmen
may be admitted on the same conditions as natives, except that no concession
iif land is made to them. Natives cannot rise above the rank of Captain-
commandant.
§ 10. Sl'OllT.
The shooting season opens about the middle of August, and closes in the
l)eginning of February, except for birds of passage, which may be shot from
tiie 15th of March till the 15th of April. No one is permitted to shoot with-
out a license ; persons desiring to olitain one should apply at the consulates
of their resjiective nations. This applies principally to civil territory ; in
military districts the authorities are by no means particular : still the law is
the same in both.
Tlie shooting in the immediate neighbourhood of Algiers is not good,
the country is becoming too settled ; still there are places within easy range
of town where hares and partridges may be found in considerable abundance.
Snipe and wild ducks are abundant in the eastern part of the Metidja ; wood-
cock can usually be met with in the marshes between the Maison Carree and
the Gue de Constantiue, in December, and wild boar almost everywhere.
For larger game the traveller must go farther off, and ought to obtain the
co-operation of the Arabs of the district. Hut travellers coming to Algeria
with a sole view to sjjort will certainly be disaii[iointed.
The Government allows the following sums for the destruction of wild
animals : —
Lions, 40 f. each ; panthers, 40 — culjs of each, 15 f. ; hyenas, 15 ; and
jackals, 2 f.
The following table is interesting, showing the numbers of each kind
killed in Algeria from 1873 to 1884 :—
Anininfs.
1873
1874
1875
1870
1877
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882
1883
1884
Totals.
Lions
7
9
9
1(5
12
21
11
10
1
3
2
101
Lionesses .
3
14
12
11
'.)
7
11
5
1
1
1
81
Wheliis .
1
1
5
2
3
3
2
17
I'lmlllLTS .
ill
l»3
iO!l
111
12(i
J21
135
100
7i
48
58
84
1,095
I)n. ycJIlllg
s
(1
S
3
17
30
15
12
4
8
119
UyiMiiis
•J20
200
217
194
211
\M
114
141
04
132
102
101
1.882
Jackals
Totals .
2028
2773
2UI0
3tMS
2919
271)0
2175
2900
601
14(kS
1013
1584 27,185
2808
3098
3272
3988
3320
3098
2404
3109
047
1050
■w.
1728 S0,4S0
08 § ^^- .SPORT Algeria
Lion and Panther Hunting. — Tlie presence of a Hon or panther is soon
known by the numerous ravages comniitted amongst the flocks and herds in
thfi district. The men of tlie tribe tlien assemble, and fix the day for hunting
it. In the meantime eight or ten are appointed to watch its movements,
and decide on the best metliod of attack. On the day appointed all come
well armed. Five or six of the bravest and most agile are selected to
undertake the dangerous task of forcing the beast to quit its lair. TJie
tribe now divides itself into seven or eight groups, which surround the
l)lace where it is known to be, each group being connected with the next
one by skirmishers. Those selected to attack now advance, accompanied
by dogs, carefully examining every bush, and keeping themselves ready for
any eventuality. The outer circle is gradually contracted, the dogs com-
mence to howl and bark, and very soon the exact spot where the animal is
concealed becomes known.
It generally remains stretched on its belly, its head resting on its fore
paws, till the dogs are within a few paces ; it then makes a bound on the
nearest dogs, who usually pay for their temerity with their lives. While
occupied with them it is attacked by the Arabs from every direction, but at
a respectful distance, and is soon riddled with balls.
If it is killed outright the delight of the Arabs is boundless, but if only
wounded the}^ have to look out for their own safety ; if there is a horseman
amongst them, it is generally on him that the beast fixes his attention ; and
he requires a good eye, and his horse a sure and rapid foot, to effect an escape,
while those on foot finish him off".
The lioness has her young ones about the end of January, and these
remain with her, and, like her, make their voices heard at the first approach
of danger. She defends them bravely, which the female panther does not
always do. Ambuscades are also much used for shooting wild animals. A hole
is dug, the bottom of which is an inclined plane of 45 degrees, jiist large
enough to contain a man. The huntsman enters it, the top is covered over
with boughs of trees and a thin layer of earth, leaving only a small hole for
air and for the muzzle of his gun. In front of this is tied an animal, either
living or just killed, care being taken that the ambuscade should be well to
leeward of the direction in which the beast is expected to arrive.
Pitfalls are also constructed for large animals in the shape of an inverted
funnel, covered over like the ambuscades, and generally placed behind some
natural obstacle which the lion would have to clear at a bound to reach the
animal used as a decoy, generally a goat or sheep fastened to a picket.
Wild Boar Hunting. — The Avild boar commits great destruction in culti-
vated fields, which it grubs up in search of the roots of arums and other
bulbous plants, and it equally devours the gi-aiu when it reaches maturity.
It is as much to extirpate them as to obtain their flesh that the Arabs chase
the wild boar, which they do either from ambuscades or in the open field.
When they wish to have a grande battue they collect three or fom- hundred
men, of whom fifteen or twenty are well armed. The beaters drive the boars
towards them, and sometimes a considerable number are killed and young
ones captured.
Introd. § 10. SPOUT GO
Gazelle Hunting. — Gazelles are hunted either IVoiu aiuhuscadcs or liy
riding them down. In the former case a certain number of persons conceal
themselves behind brushwood or natural incfiuaiities of ground, wliile otlicrs
ou horseback go out in searcli of a herd of gazelles and try to drive tliem to
where their companions are posted. In the latter case, two or three men
on horseback follow the Hock at a gentle trot till the animals are tired,
when, at a given signal, they gallop in amongst them, and when at forty or
fifty paces distant fire at them with slugs ; each Arab frequently kills his two
beasts.
Bustard Shooting. — The bustard is found on all the plains of the south,
and even in some parts of the Tell in the hot season ; its flight is heavy,
though tolerably long sustained. As soon as it perceives a man it tries to
conceal itself behind a tuft of alfa or tall grass, follows every movement of
the sportsman, and rarely allows him to get within sliot except during the
hottest part of the day, when it almost allows itself to be ridden over. Tlie
bustard in its flight has always an inclination to go in a circular direction ;
the Arab takes advantage of this peculiarity by getting beyond it, and, with-
out appearing to follow it, endeavours to make it describe a gradually decreas-
ing circle till he gets within range. He usually tries to hit it on tlie wing,
in tlie hope of breaking a leg or a wing, as its plumage is so thick that it is
exceedingly diflicult to kill wlicn rimning.
The lesser bustard, or Pouh dc Carthage, is common, and aflbrds excellent
sport.
Falconry. — The best falcons arc found in Jebel Amour or the Sahara.
Immediately a falcon is snared, its master covers its head with a leathern
hood, and perches it on his shoulder, taking care to sew a thick pad of leatlier
oil tliat part of his burnous. It is left two daj's without food, and then it
is fed on fresli raw meat, with the head uncovered. Tliis is repeated twice
eveiy day, and in the intervals its master does all he can by caresses to tame
it, and accustom it to captivity. In two or three months he begins to
accustom it to search for its own food while still attaclied to him by a tliiu
string ; and even on the mornings of the days when it is subsei^uently to bo
employed, he endeavours to let it see and almost attack a living iiuarry.
The falcons principally used by tiie Arabs are the Saker {Fulco saccr),
the Lanner {Falco lanurius), tlic Barbary Falcon {Falco barbarus), and the
I'eregrine {Falco j'cregrinua), all of which species breed in tlio country.
The trade of tamer of falcons is hereditary in certain families, and it is
only the highest ranks of Arabs who can alford to indulge in this luxury.
The falconers usually form part of their retinue.
An expedition of this nature is usually a great fete in an Arab tribe ; it
is i'requently arranged to celebrate a marriage, or the visit of a person of
distinction. A day is selected when the atmosphere is perfectly clear. The
falconers arc mounted on horseback, generally with three falcons, two on tlie
shoulders and one on the head. Forty or fifty horsemen place themselves iu
a single line, thirty or forty paces apart, while otliers ou foot beat the ground
between them.
It is usually in the great plateaux of the south, covcied witli alfa, tiiat
To § !'• ZOOLOGY AUjc.ria
this sport is practisdl. Tlu; iiioiiic7it a liarc is staiteil tlio falcons are un-
liooduil, and allowed to see their [ircy. Tliey at once soar into tlie air out of
sight ; the horsemen start ofi' at full gallop, with loud cries ; the birds poise
themselves for a moment in the air, and then descend with deadly aim on their
victim, which would soon be torn to jiieces did the falconers not rush forward
and regain their birds.
Not only hares, but partridges, bustards, flamingoes, and other large birds
are thus hunted, and so precious are well-trained falcons that they are trans-
mitted from father to son, and no money would temjjt an Arab to part with
one. The casual visitor to Algiers must not count on being able to enjoy
much of this sport, unless he is on terms of intimacy with some of the superior
French officers in the south of the colony, who might perhaps be induced to
organise a day's " Chassc aud:faucons" for his amusement.
Partridge Shooting. — The Arabs have several strange methods of shooting
or killing partridges. One is to take advantage of the propensity which these
birds have to huddle together in case of danger. An Arab covers himself with
the skin of a lion, panther, jackal, etc. ; and when he sees a covey frightened
at his approach he fires into the middle of them, and not unfrequently kills
eight or ten at one shot. They are also frequently able to attract them at
night by means of a lantern, and kill them with sticks.
§ 11. Zoology.
The Fauna of Algeria does not differ materially from that of the Mediter-
ranean system in general. In the eastern portion it resembles that of Sicily
and Sardinia, while in the west it approaches more nearly still to that of
Spain. The presence of European birds in Algeria is of course easily
explained ; but there are many mammalia, fish, reptiles and insects common
to both countries. Some of these are no longer found in Southern Europe,
such as the lion, panther, serval {Felis serral), h3'ena, jackal, golden fox
( VuliKS niloticus), genet {Genetta afro) ; but abundant evidence of the exist-
ence of these in remote ages is found in the caverns of the south of France.
One species of genet, however ( Vivcrra gcnelta), is very common in Spain, and
the jackal [Canis aureus) is abundant in some provinces of Eurojiean Turke}-.
The progress of civilisation in Europe has caused their disappearance, while
Mohammedan barbarism has favoured their multiplication in Africa, a country
little inhabited, and abounding in flocks and herds.
The lion is hardly ever found in the mountains of Kabylia, except some-
times in the Oued es-Sahel. Its favourite haunts are in the neighbourhood
of Jemmapes, between PhUippeville and Bone, and the back of the Djurdjura
range, between the Oued es-Sahel and Aumale ; it is now, however, rapidly
approaching extinction. The panther is found more or less frequently all over
the country, as are various other species of the cat and dog tribe, iloufflons
or wild goat {Ammotragus tragelaphus) and gazelles are common in the south.
The Algerian monkey {Initus ecaudatus) is found from the gorge of the Chitla
as far as the eastern limit of Kabylia. Their depredations are sometimes ver)'
serious, and the natives use every means in their power, short of shooting
Introd. § 11. ZOOLOGY 71
tliein, to drive tliem away. They entertain a superstitious dread of killin;;
these animals, as they believe them to be tlic deseendaiits of members of tin-
human race, who, having incurred the Divine anger, were deprived of sjieech.
In the forest of the Beni Saleh, in the province of Constantino, red deer
{Cervus harharus) are still to be found, but they are becoming rarer every
year, owing in a great measure to the destruction of the forest land by fire ;
there is too much reason to fear that they will soon become extinct. They
may be found in the forest of Beni Saleh, and in the vicinity of Ghardimaou
on the Tunisian railway.
One of the most important animals in Algeria is the camel, and the Arabs
reckon their wealth by the number they i)ossess. These animals, which
live thirty or forty years, are not usually worked before five years of age, nor
after twenty-five. They are docile and domestic, and are of incalculable value
as beasts of burden in the desert, where no other animal could live for so long
without water — one supply of which, every live or si.x days, suilices for them.
They have also been successfully employed by the French generals as a means of
transport for troops ; but they can only be used in the Sahara, as north of the
Atlas the climate is too cold. A good camel will carry a load of from 500 lbs.
to 800 lbs., or even more, for a distance of 30 or 40 miles in a day. There is
a larger variety, called by the Arabs "Mehari," which has hardly any hump,
and which is used more for speed than for carrying Inirdcns. It is capable ol'
performing a journey of 80 to 100 miles, for several days in succession, keep-
ing at a trot the whole distance. The food of the camel is grass and branches
of trees, and sometimes barley and dates. When they are past work they are
fattened for killing, the Hesh being considered good and wholesome, especially
the hump, which is the choicest part. The skiu is used for several purposes,
and the hair is used for weaving into various tissues, especially Arab tent
cloth. The milk of the camel is a staple article of food amongst the Arabs.
The native cattle of Algeria are of excellent (piality as a stock on which to
graft the better European varieties. They arc hardy, and sui)port admirably
the alternations of heat and cold, wet and drought, to which they are exposeil
in the pasture-lands of the High Plateaux.
One of the great sources of wealth in this colony is its sheep, which are
lircd on the High Plateaux, where agriculture is imi)ossible. Before the con-
([ucst the Arabs reaped hardly any advantage from their ilocks, as they were
to a great extent cut olf from a market on the coast by the rapacity of tln'
intervenitig tril)es. For some years after the conipiest two or three shillings
was considered a fair price for a sheep ; even in 1860 one could be purchased
at the market of Bou-Farik, close to Algiers, for from nine to eleven shillings ;
now a similar beast fetches sixteen to twenty shillings, and when sent by
rapid steam transport to France, it realises from thirty-two to forty in the
Palis market, where during the summer more than 20,000 are sent every
month.
Regarding the horse, the reader cannot do better tlian study the excellent
work of (iencnil Diiuinas, " Les Chevaux du Sahara."
The Omithologic fauna of the coast district of Algeria closely resembles
that of Southern Europe, though even in that portion of the country some
72 § 11- 5500LOGY Algeria
hirils ;uu ruuinl wliosc occurrence in Europe rests upon very slender evidence ;
amongst tlicse may be mentioned the T(tliagra Shrike, the Dusky Ixos, tlie
Ultramarine Titmouse, the Algerian Chaflinch, and Moussier's Redstart, all of
which species are to be frequently met with in the neighbourhood of Algiers,
and are often brought to the market of that city. In the High Plateaux
and the Sahara many sjiecies of birds unknown in Europe occur, and the
province of Constantine is especially rich. Amongst the more conspicuous
birds of the mountains may be mentioned the Liimmergeyer, the Imperial,
Tawny, Golden and Bonelli's Eagles, and the Bald Ibis ; whilst the Houbara
Bustard, the Demoiselle Crane, and various species of sand gi'ouse, occur in
the vast plains of the interior.
Ostriches are found sparingly in the northern part of the Sahara, and
more plentifully farther south, but are every year becoming more rare. They
are gregarious, living in herds of five or six individuals. An ostrich skin
with the feathers is worth on the spot from £10 to £25 ; but it is very seldom
that one can be obtained that has not been more or less thinned by the Arabs.
Ostriches, when pursued, always run in circles, so that while one party of
horsemen follows the herd, another rides at right angles to a place affording
a good look-out, endeavouring to discover the route taken by the birds. If
they succeed in this they pursue them, and usually run down one or more,
although some of their horses frequently fall exhausted before the chase is
over. When running at full speed they can easily outstrip the horses, their
stride being from 25 to 28 feet ! Ostrich eggs are excellent eating. The
.shells are sold in Algiers, some coloured and mounted for ornament only, and
others made into sugar-basins, cups, etc.
Fish. — Every species of fish that is found in the Mediterranean is caught
off the coast of Algeria, among the most important of which are the tunny,
sardine, sole, mullet, besides shellfish in great variety ; the Algerian prawns,
especially those of Bone, being of enormous size and delicate flavour.
The fresh waters of Algeria contain twenty-one species of fish, none of
Avhicli are of much value from an economic' point of view, with the exception
of two species of barbel and the common eel. Of the number five are peculiar
to Algeria : the trout [Salmo macrostigma), which loves the cool and limpid
water of the Oued Z'hour and its aflluents, flowing over beds of granite and
gneiss through cool shady forests in the vicinity of Collo — this is the most
southern of the salmon family ; the Tellia apoda, a small cj'prinodon, desti-
tute of ventral fins, which has no known habitat save the spring of Bou-
Merzug, from which it never strays more than half a mile ; the Leiiciscus
callcnsis, which peoples all the lakes and springs in the east of Algeria ; the
Barhiis sdifcnsis, which is found everj'where ; and the Syngnathus algcriensis,
peculiar to the Seybouse and the two streams which unite to form it, the Oued
Cherf and the Bou-Hamdan ; and a species of Chromis (C. tristramii) from the
desert.
The fish fauna of the Tell and High Plateaux belongs exclusively to the
Mediterranean system ; the Sahara alone is linked to Africa by its Chromidie.
Several attempts have been made to introduce other species as articles of
food. The Arabs have never shown a very great liking for fish, and have never
hitrod. § 11- zi^oLOGY 73
attempted to naturalise tliem, except in the case of the guldliftli, whieli WiUi
prized latlier for its beauty than for its economic value.
The first attempt to introduce European species since the Frendi conquest
was made in 1858 by ilM. Kralik and Cosson, who brouglit to Constantine a
iKirrel of young carp and tiie ova of various Sahnonid;e. The latter were suc-
cessfully hatched, and the young fish developed rapidly in the pure water of
the cistern in which they were placed ; but no sooner were they launched into
the water of the river Rouniel than their bodies and eyes seemed to get
covered with a sort of calcareous film, and they speedily died. The carp,
on the contrary, have succeeded admirably in tlie Basin of Djcbel Waliasli,
and have multiplied amazingly. Some were p>ut into the Rouuiel ; but the
Zouaves, informed of their translation, immediately set to work to catch them,
and soon destroyed these new denizens of the river.
Attempts at pisciculture have also been made in the province of Algiers,
where carp and, more recently, tench have succeeded perfectly in reservoirs.
At this point, however, the experiment has remained stationary, and no
effort to naturalise the fish thus Itred has been made. The question, as far as
relates to the Salmonida;, appears easy to resolve, after the experience gained
at Constantine. Fish of this family recjuire fresh and clear water not charged
witli calcareous deposits. Tiicse conditions are only possible on certain
points of the littoral, particularly in Eastern Kabylia, and partly in that of
l5abor, where the streams rise on the sides of high mountains, preserving a
temperature nearly constant, ilowing on a bed of gneiss, granite, or schist, and
[irotected from the rays of the sun by shady forests.
Unfortunately, on the whole of the littoral of the provinces of Constantine
and Algiers, the mountain-range is broken up into an infinite variety of little
basins, very steep, which oidy supply ninning water from autumn till June.
An extensive zone of acclimatisation cannot, therefore, be antit'ipated for the
salmon family ; and the small volume of water in those streams will not
permit the introduction of the larger species ; but the Algerian trout may
well l)e employed to peo[)le the few suitable rivers where it does not already
exist.
In this zone also an attempt might advantageously be made to introduce
fish of other families, especially of the Percidie, which delight in clear and
limpid water. In the [irovince of Oran these might succeed in the upiier
part of the Tafna, which Hows over a bed of rocks and gravel.
In other jiarts of the country, where even the most important streams sink,
during the hot season, to a mere series of pools connected by shallow rills
thoroughly heated by the sun's rays, the carp and tench oiler tlie best
chances of success. The latter (which, in Europe, inhabits muddy marshes
almost dry in summer, without detriment to the tiuality of its llesh) might
endure as well as the barbel the calcareous salts which the majority of rivers
in Algeria hold in solution, the rather that they would be free from their
natural enemies the larger crustaceans and voracious fishes.
It is by no means uncommon for fish to be ejected by artesian wells ; and
this has formed the subject of numerous si)eculations. It has beeu concluded
that these lish inhabited the vast subterranean sea which occupies the bottom
74 § 11- '/'<>< )Lon\ Algeria
of tlif^ Saliaiiui (IcprcsHioii ; and it lias hccii asked how, il' tliey were destined
to live in perpetual obscurity, they were not destitute of eyes like the Sirens
of the grottoes of Caruiola or the Crustacea of the Mammoth Cave in the
United States ?
We have already noticed the existence, from Biskra as far as Temacin, of
bahrs or goiiffrcs, which communicate with the underground sheet of water,
and occupy too great a surface to be regarded as the enlarged apertures of
fallen-in wells. All tliese apertures are inhabited by considerable numbers of
Cyprinodons and Chroraidre. There they live freely exposed to air and light,
and breed under normal conditions. Their undergi'ound life is merely an
episode, and, as it were, an incident in the voyages which they undertake
between one hahr and another. When they reach the neighbourhood of a
well they are forced up with the water or oliey an instinct to mount to the
surface.
Snakes of various species occur throughout Algeria, but the only venomous
one is the Cerastes, or horned viper, found commonly in the Sahara, but some-
times also in the High Plateaux. The tortoise, chameleon, scorpion, and a
large species of lizard, called by the Arabs "Deb," are also found.
Mention must also be made of the Locusts, which are one of the plagues
of Algeria. They appear every few years ; and four serious incursions have
taken place since the French conquest.
These invasions take place under a double form : first, dark clouds of adult
insects darkening the sun, and appearing like a thick fall of snow, come from
the direction of the High Plateaux. These soon commence to lay their eggs
in any light sandy soil they can find, and in thirty or thirty-five days after-
wards the young insects or criquets commence to appear. These are far more
destructive than the parents, and under their attacks vegetation of ever}' kind
disappears as by magic. They usually ajipear towards the close of the hot
season, and the first rain or cold of autumn causes them all to disa]ipear.
The first serious invasion of locusts was in 1845, and did considerable
damage ; but as European cultivation was not then in a very advanced state
its effects were not seriously felt. The second was in 1866, and left deeper
traces for several years, both from the immense number of insects which
remained, and from the permanent injury done to vegetable life, which has
been estimated at £800,000. The third was in 1874, less calamitous than the
others, owing to the vigorous measures taken to destroy both the adult insect.*;,
the eggs, and the criquets. The fourth is devastating Algeria at the present
moment (1889), and no one can predict when it may terminate. During 1888
it prevailed over an area of 300,000 hectares, containing a population of
700,000 souls ; the estimated value of the loss sustained being 25 millions of
francs. In 1889 this is expected to be much greater.
The inhabitants of the desert, however, do not regard these insects with
the same dread as do those of more fertile districts ; for them they are a
precious manna sent by I'rovidence ; they collect them with care, di-y and
salt them, and devour them with as much relish as a Londoner does shrimps
at MarL'ate.
Introd. § 12. GEOLOGY, mineralogy, hot springs, etc.
§ 12. Geology, Minkralooy, Hot Spkincs, ktc.
Geology. — Tlic Crystalline rocks, iiicliuliiig granite, gneiss, and mica-
.schist, are but slightly developed as regards superficial extent, though tliey
attain a considerable thickness. They seem to be confined to the neighbour-
liood of the coast, on or near which they are found in small patches, and at
distant intervals all the way from Tetuan and Ceuta, in Worocco, to the
frontier of the Tunisian territory. There is a patch near Nemours, not far
from the west frontier of Algeria, and others at Algiers, the Djurdjura
mountains, Djebel Goiifi (Cape Bougiaroni), and Djebel Edough, between
I'liilippuville and Bone. The Palaeozoic rocks also attain a considerable
thickness, though witli a small superficial development ; and as fossils have
not yet been discovered in them, their age is not accurately known, but they
arc thought to belong to the Silurian epoch. They consist for the most part
of much altered limestones, associated with schists ; in places of argillaceous
or arenaceous schists with (juartzite. They are found in the neighbourhood
of the coast, usually at the spots where the crystalline rocks show themselves.
Upon tliese palieozoic rocks rest unconformably at certain places a con-
siderable tiiickness of red conglomerates, coarse sandstones, and arenaceous
slates. 'I'hcy are non-fossiliferou.s, and may be either Devonian or Pemiian.
Jurassic strata are only found in scattered patches in the two eastern pro-
vinces of Algeria, but in the province of Oran they are extensively developed.
The former seem, from tlie fossils which their limestones and dolomites con-
tain, to blend together the tliree divisions into which the lias can usually be
separated. In the province of Oran, above these liassic strata, are others
nearly 2000 ft. thick, which fall into the Kelloway, Oxford clay, and Coral rag
divisions of the Middle Oolite. It seems that tlie Lower and Upper Oolite
arc not represented, and the next beds an' those that belong to
The Cretaceous formation, which in the provinces of Constantino and
Algiers are so well developed that some geologists believe all the divisions
into which the formation is distinguisludde in France are to be found here.
The Neocomian division, which is chielly composed of sandstones and marls,
with a thickness of more than 1000 ft., is seen at a number of detached points,
extending from Tunis to Morocco. The mountainous district near Cherehel
and ililianah is composed of these beds, which hereabouts reach the coast.
The greater part of the hill of Chennoua, east of Cherehel, consists of inferior
cretaceous rocks.
The middle and upper divisions of the cretaceous formation cover a large
extent of surface in Algeria, and in many districts the beds are much inflcxcd
and dislocated, il. Coquand, who lias examined the geological features of
Constantine, states that he has met with five stages of the lower chalk, seven
of the middle chalk, and four of the upper chalk, with their characteristic
fossils. The upper divisions are but feebly develojied in tiie Oraneso Tell,
but in the south of the jjrovince it occujiies a considerable superficies.
Commencing the Tertiary beds with the Nummulitic division of the
Eocene, rocks of that formation have been found at many detached points,
76 § 12. OKOLOGY, MINERALOGY, HOT SrUINGS, ETC. Ahjeria
liut not to extend over a wide .surface of the country. In tlie province of
Constantine there are patches in tlie Higii Plateaux and in the mountainous
region l)ordering tiieni on tlic south. A more northerly band of patches is
seen passing by the mountains of Babor (between Djidjelly and Bougie),
Djurdjura, Bouzegza (the striking hill seen from Algiers in the south-east),
Chennoua (seen from Algiers in the west), and Cape Tenes. In the province
of Oran only a few small fragments have been discovered. The beds of the
Miocene epoch are extensively developed in Algeria. The lowest division is
well seen at Tiziouzou (Djurdjura), and on the flanks of the Atlas between
Blidah and El-Affrouu ; also at Milianah and Tenes, all in the province of
Algiers. The next stage is susceptible of division into several groups, one of
which is the exact equivalent of the faluns of Touraine, abounding in Ostrcea
crassissima. The cedar forest of Teniet-el-Ahd stands above beds of this
division, the Helvetian group of continental geologists. A third stage, which
does not contribute to the constitution of the Atlas ranges, but is only found
at their feet, is chiefly composed of marls and sandy limestones or molasse.
These beds are well developed in the Saliel of Algiers. In this district we
find first a coarse sandstone with clyj)eastus, then a thick deposit of marls,
which in places are rich in shells, and at the top a molasse with Tcrehratula
ampulla.
The Pliocene epoch is represented in the province of Oran by sandstones
with many recent shells, which sometimes attain a thickness of 150 m. (plateau
of Mostaganem, valley of the Chelif, etc.) In the other provinces such beds
are as yet unknown.
Beds of the Quaternary epoch (applying the term to all deposits posterior
to the last Alpine dislocations) cover very large spaces in Algeria, and offer
problems which will recpure much study on the part of the geologist. The
lowest division consists of a thick deposit of pebbles surmounted by beds of
gravel, above which is an argillaceous deposit. These beds are posterior to
the latest basaltic rocks, and they have been subjected to a movement of
elevation. The immense extent covered by these deposits in the interior of
the country is very remarkable, as well as the height to which the)' reach on
the Plateaux. They appear to be of precisely the same nature as those ex-
tending over enormous spaces in the Sahara. Their origin remains an
unsolved enigma. One point, however, is clear : they do not belong to a
deposit, originally continuous and afterwards dislocated, but they were
accumulated by atmospheric agencies in separate basins of greater or less
extent. In the coast region the plain of the Metidja and the valley of the
Chelif afford examples of these wonderful accumulations of transjiorted
materials. The Metidja plain has been bored to the depth of 600 ft. without
reaching the limit of the quaternary deposits.
In addition to these subaerial deposits there are raised beaches to be seen
at intei'vals all along the coast, from Tunis to the Atlantic border of Morocco,
showing that the land has been elevated a few feet in recent times, for the
fossils thus brought into view belong to the existing fauna of the Mediter-
ranean.
Finally, there is the earthy matter deposited in the great depressions,
Introd. § 12. gkologt, minerat.ooy, hot springs, etc. 77
called by the Arabs Sebkas or Chotts. These are hollows, frequently of a great
size, which in some cases are llUed with water, in others permanently dry.
The deposit alluded to is of a more or less argillaceous and very tine material.
It is often stratified, the beds being sometimes a few yards in thickness. In
it are found shells of terrestrial molluscs of living species.
Though the sedimentary deposits above dcsiriKcd runstitute the most prom-
inent features of the geology of Algeria, Eruptive rocks are not wanting in
this country. It is true their mineralogical character is not always easy to
determine ; but we may admit, in general, that many of those rocks have a
great affinity with melaphyrs and basalts, whereas others belong to diorites,
dolorites, porphyries, and trachytes.
In the province of Oran basalts are common, particularly between Oran
and Tlem^en, but it is in the province of Algiers that eruptive rocks have been
most studied. They appear there either like gigantic dikes, disposed on more
or less regular lines, directed generally from east to west, or they are scattered
about like isolated islands. The first are foi' the most part represented by a
chain of mountains or hills— such are the two eruptive ranges between Jlilianah
and Chercliel — of which the one follows the northern slope of the Sra Kebira,
and the other (to the north of the first) extends from the chain of Djthel
Souma, nearly to the small town of Zurich. Farther to the north, the shore
between Cherchel and the Oued Arbil is more or less chequered by numerous
volcanic outbursts, which, without following uninterrupted lines, follow the
direction of the shore, and consequently range equally from east to west.
Among those volcanic manifestations must be mentioned a kind of peperino
which occurs in the neighbourhood of Cherchel, where, on both sides of the
Oiicd cl-Hachcm, the tertiary regulai-ly-stratified deposits present a curious
alteration in the structure and the mineralogical composition of the rock ; for
not only are these tertiary strata highly indurated, as if they had been exposed
to the action of lire, but they include a quantity of little dark-greenish fragments,
different from any rock occurring on the surface of tlie country. It is there-
fore probable that the agent which converted those tertiary strata into a vol-
canic conglomerate, reminding us of the 2)e2)erino of I?ome and Najiles, was of
a subterraneous nature, the more so as a dark -greenish rock, very like a diorite,
composes the superior part of the mountain Djebel Arujaud, situated to the
west of Cherchel, near the mouth of the Oued Masselmun. The jjcpcrino of
Cherchel occurs equally in the plain of Metidja.
The three above-mentioned zones (Sra Kebir, Oued -Arbil, and the shore of
Cherchel) constitute the chief linear ranges of volcanic rocks in the province
of Algiers ; but, as we have already stated, except those linear (or nearly so)
volcanic expansions, the country in question is chequered by numerous vol-
canic outbursts .scattered about promiscuously. Such are the local outbursts
which generally mark the site of hot springs so abundant in this country, and
among which the llummam Mclouan is one of the most remarkable. An inj-
portant local volcanic outburst is offered by the mountain Znkkur Gharhi (to
the north-west of Milianah), crossed by a por|ihyric dike of a whitish colour
more than 8 kilometres in length. It is chiefly composed of fel.spar, including
( rystals of quartz, small lamellaj of mica, and some other minerals in less
78 § 12. OEOLOOY, MINERALOGY, HOT SPRINO.S, ETC. Ahjeria
quantities. It may jaTliaps not be (juite without the limits of our subject to
remark that the vegetation observed on tiiis large dike consists almost exclu-
sively of the Cistus ladani/erus, a fact which offers a curious exemplification
of the peculiar connection between the chemical composition of the .soil and
its vegetable character.
It is highly i^robablc that all the above-mentioned volcanic rocks in the
provinces of Oran and Algiers are contemporaneous, or nearly so, and there
cannot be any doubt about their age, for they have all protruded through the
tertiary deposits of the country, and therefore are of a post-tertiary e]ioch.
One of the numerous instances which prove this statement is offered by the
pepcrino of the plain of lletidja, where, on many points, this volcanic con-
glomerate is covered by the quaternary deposits, which, moreover, frequently
include fragments of the volcanic rocks of the country.
It is most likely that these may be discovered in other parts of Algeria ;
but in the present state of our knowledge we must limit ourselves to tho.se
positively ascertained. At all events, the concentration of volcanic rocks
in the province of Algiers, and in the ])roximity of the town, may account
for the frequent earthquakes to which Algiers, lilidah, Djidjelly, etc., ai-e
subject.
This ra}>id sketch cannot be closed without inquiring into the part which
the phenomenon of glaciation may have played in the geological liistory of
Algeria — a phonomenon whicli has given rise to a greater amount of con-
troversy than perhaps any other fact of Natural Philosophy. It is true
Algeria has not yet been sufficiently explored to yield a satisfactory answer to
this important question ; nevertheless many of its regions have been carefully
studied by able geologists, such as MM. Coquand, Yille, and Pomel, from
whose observations all traces of the glacial epoch could not have escaped had
they existed. It seems, therefore, very probable that Algeria has not been
exposed to the glacial period. This fact is of great importance, because it
adds another large country to the number of those which do not offer any trace
of a geological phasis considered by so many natural philosophers as having
invaded the greatest part of our globe — a hypothesis which loses ground as our
geological investigations gain in extension. So, for instance, no positive trace
of the glacial period has hitherto been ascertained in European Turke)-, Greece,
in the Caucasus, in the Himalayan mountains, in Thibet, or in China ; neither
did M. de Tchihatchef discover any in the Altaien mountains of Siberia, or on
any point of the large peninsula of Asia Minor, which during six years he
crossed in every direction. Like all those countries, Algeria seems to have
escaped the action of the glacial period, in spite of the proximity of oth^r coun-
tries invaded by it, an exemption which has a striking parallel in Asia Minor ;
for the northern shores of this peninsula are separated only by a distance of
about 500 kilometres from the southern limit of the erratic blocks in Euro-
pean Kussia, which do not go beyond the latitude of 51 degi-ees, a distance
almost equal to that between Land's End and the Pentland Straits. It will
easily be admitted that if one of these two extremities of England were now to
be buried under a thick permanent crust of ice, such an event would have a
great elTect upmi the opposite extremity, whatever might be the nature of the
Tiltrod. § 12. GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, HOT SPRINGS, ETC. 79
intermediate space, whetlier land or water, for in the first case traces of ancient
moraines, as well as furrowed and scratched surfaces of rocks, would indicate
the former existence and movement of glaciers ; and, in the second case,
erratic blocks and debris would have been transported from one i)oiut to the
other by floating masses of ice. The absence in Asia Minor of any traces of
the intense cold which during the glacial periotl prevailed through almost the
whole of European Russia is partitularly striking, when we consider that now,
when the large Russian plains are no longer covered with glaciers, but merely
exposed to the atmospheric current coming directly from the Arctic region,
they exercise a strong inllueiice on the climate of the Black Sea, of the
northern shores of Asia Minor, of the Bosphorus and of Constantinople.
This refrigerant action manifests itself not only by the dej>rcssion of the annual,
and particularly of the winter temperature, much lower than that of any
countries placed under the same latitude and under similar tojjographical
conditions, but also by the curious phenomenon of congelation, of which the
Black Sea, the Bosphorus, and even the Dardanelles have oftered several
instances, for M. de Tchihatchef has shown that this fact has occurred no less
tlian seventeen times during the liistorical period.'
All those extraordinary phenomena receive a new support from Algeria,
for the littoral of Africa is separated from Southern France and Italy, where
tlie glacial period has left unmistakable traces, by a distance still smaller
than that between Asia Minor and Southern Russia. Therefore the absence in
Algeria of any well-ascertained traces of the glacial epoch is a most important
contribution to the argument wliicli may be alleged in favour of the state-
ment — that the glacial period, fiir from possessing a (jcncral character, is less
remarkable for its extension than for its localisation, and took jilace not only
independently of temperature and geographical position, but rather in a most
striking opposition to such conditions, .so that the extension of glacial pheno-
mena has been checked or favoured b}' causes hitherto inaccessible to our
knowledge, and at any rate very dilTerent from those admitted by the theories
of many geologists belonging to the school of glacialists.
Mineralogy.
During the last 30 years numerous concessions of Iron, Lead, Copper,
and other minerals have been made, but the working of them has not always
been attended with success, principally owing to the want of adequate means
of transport. The mineral wealth of Algeria appears to be boundless ;
calamine or carbonate of zinc, cinnabar or sulphide of mercury, various
ores of copper, ami argentiferous lead ore, are found in great almndancc,
especially in tjie province of Constantine. But the most valualdo mineral
of Algeria is its iron, which is found close to the sea, throughout nearly
the whole littoral. The quality is exceptionally rich and good ; it is nearly
devoid of sulphur, arsenic, and phosphorus ; the proportion of metal in the
ore is- sufficient to enable it to pay a heavy freight to Kuro])e, and in much
1 Vide "A.sie Mineurc," vol. ii. (CliinntoloRii'), pp. .■!.'i-(17, l>y 1' >\'' Trliiliatdirf ; aii'l
" Le Hospliore et CVmstantiuople," pp. 208-31S, by the sniiic aiilhnr.
80 § 12. GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, nOT SPRINGS, ETC. Alijcrui
of it tliore is a large .'pi'oiwi'tion of manganese, which is of the greatest value
in the reduction of the metal.
Algeria possesses immense quantities of Salt. In lioutm 12 ami 21 will be
found a description of two remarkable mountains of rock-salt ; and there are
many enormous salt lakes and marshes, somt; of them being hundreds of square
miles in area, which could be made to furnish almost any quantity. Many
different kinds of marble are found, some of it of excellent quality, such as
the white, gray, red, green, rose-veined, etc. The quarry of so-called Algerian
onyx at Ain Tekbalet was formerly worked by the Romans. More than sixty
ancient quarries have recently been found near Kleber, in the province of
Oran, yielding the long-lost Numidiau marbles formerly so highly prized.
They are of a riclmcss and beauty quite unequalled in any other part of
the world. Building-stone is abundant ; also freestone, gritstone, gypsum,
potters' and brick clay, and slate.
Hot SpEixfis.
There are numerous thermal springs in Algeria, but few of them are as j'et
turned to any account. Those principally used are : —
The Hammam RMra, the Roman Aquse Calidfe, near Bon Medfa, on
the railway to Oran. Traces of the ancient Roman town still exist ; and
there is a large and commodious establishment there. Temp, about 115°
Fahr,
The Hammam Melouan, in the valley of the Harrach, much frequented
by the natives, who have implicit belief in the efficacy of the waters. Temp.
103° Fahr.
The Hammam Meskoutin, near Guelma. These are the most remarkable
of any of the hot springs of Algeria. The waters contain a great deal of
carbonate of lime in solution, which, gradually depositing, has formed a large
rock, from the top of which the springs issue. They are the hottest of all the
sources in the countrj', the temperature being 203° Fahr.
The Hammam at the Portes-de-fer, containing 22 centigrammes of sulphate
of soda per litre of water, and having a temperature of 158° to 170° Fahr., iS
excellent in cases of cutaneous diseases.
The Ain M'kebrita, 50 kil. S.E. of Constantine, which, though not very
warm, is rich in sulphur and chloride of sodium.
The Bain de la Reine, 3 miles from Oran, where there are bath-houses.
The waters, which rise in a grotto, have a temperature of about 125° Fahr.
Besides those here mentioned, many other mineral springs, both hot and cold,
exist, which are less frequented. (See the various localities indicated.)
Earthquakes.
Algeria is subject to earthquakes, which frequently occur, and arc occa-
sionally very severe. One occurred in 1716, and continued with intervals for
a whole month. In 1825 Blidah was entuely destroyed by one, and, accord-
ing to Consul -General Thomas's report, more than 14,000 of the inhabit-
Introd. § 13. COLONISATION, AGRICULTURE, FORESTS, ETC. 81
ants perished ; and again, in 1867, the same town and several snrrounding
villages were partially thrown down. The town of Djidjelly was also destroyed
liy the same cause in 1855. A very severe one occurred at M'sila in the end
of 1885.
§ 13. Colonisation', AoiiicrLTi'RK, Fore.sts, etc.
Colonisation. — The colonisation of Algeria is a splendid work still far from
completion. A long extent of .seaboard, rich soil, boundless material wealth,
a fine climate, magnificent scenery, the most fiivourable geographical position
conceival)le, — all these ought to secure for it a brilliant future.
France has indeed done much for it, and the world owes her a debt of grati-
tude for having converted a country which on the sea-coast was a nest of
pirates, and in the interior a chaos of anarchy, into a colony, not yet indeed
as prosperous as it ought to be, but still an infant of fair promise, requiring
only tranquillity and population to make it what it once was, the granary of
Southern Europe.
Like the con(piest of a country, colonisation should proceed inland from
tlie sea. At first on the littoral there were low plains, marsh}' and hot, the
nurseries of malarious fevers. These are now to a great extent drained, and
long culture has rendered them comparatively healthy ; trees have every-
where been planted, and it may be now said that the plains have been con-
(juered to colonisation, and the higher ami more healthy lands are now open
to it.
An exception may perhaps be made to a certain extent in the plain of the
Chelif. The agricultural produce of a country does not entirely depend on
the fertility of its soil ; the hygrometrical condition of its climate is ecjually
inij)ortant. Thus the ]>lains of the Metidja and Chelif have e(iually good soil,
liut in the first, rain is more abundant, and the sea-breezes allbrd a certain
quantity of moisture ; the consequence is that its harvests are generally good,
and population can always find the means of increasing. But in the plain of
tlie Clielif rain is more .scarce, the air drier, owing to the sea-breezes being
shut out by a range of hills along the coa.st, and good harvests are not obtained
more than once in three years.
Evidently the only means of remedying this, and opening out this great
plain to colonisation, is by constructing dams or barrages to irrigate the land,
ami by planting trees on a grantl scale wherever possible.
This plain contains 500,000 acres of land of the first quality, of which
200,000 are capaldc of being irrigated. Colonisation is here represented by
luit few centies of European jiojtulation, of which the European inhabitants
liardly exceed 4000, the natives l)eing scarce in proportion. Nevertheless, a
railway and a good road traverse this valley for a length of 200 kilometres,
and several barrages have been constructed. In the present condition of this
]ilain it woidd be inhumanity to create many villages, the heat of summer
there being intense, and the absence of all shade greatly increasing the fatigue
of labour ; wherever trees have been planted their inllueuce on the climate
has been considcratjie, and there has been a perceptible decrease of temperature.
[^Alijcria.^ G
82 § 13. COLONISATION, AouicuLTORE, FORESTS, ETC. Algeria
From 18,3;j to 1844 absolutily iiotliiii^ was done towards coloiii.sation ;
lietweon tin; latter year and 1848 the villages of the Sahel and of the Atlas
were laid out, and many of them finished. Marshal Bugeaud conceived the
idea of converting his soldiers into colonists ; he gave them lands, supplied
them with tlie mules of his train, and built them the necessary public edifices ;
but a year after not one of them remained ; they had sold both land and
beasts and disajipeared, none can say Avhere.
After the revolution of 1848 the AssemhUe Nationale voted with enthu-
siasm the sum of £1,000,000 sterling for the purpose of establishing agricul-
tural colonies in Algeria, and for the relief of the workmen of Paris thrown
out of employment, nearly all of whom were strangers to such work. The
number of immigrants who availed themselves of this arrangement was
10,376, and 41 colonies were created, having an area of about 140,000 acres.
The expense of these colonies was very considerable, and amounted to about
£8000 for every 100 souls.
After the insurrection of 1871 the Government of Algeria decreed the
confiscation of the land belonging to all the insurgents, but, unwilling to
apply this punishment too rigorously and depopulate the country, a compro-
mise was effected ; the State took possession only of such portions as were
necessary for the creation of new villages in the heart of the insurgent districts,
and allowed the original proprietors to retain a large proportion of their pos-
sessions, exception being made to the great leaders of the insurrection, who,
as might be expected, possessed some of the finest land in the colony — not-
ably in the Oued es-Sahel, or valley of Bougie, and in the Medjana.
The number of douars whose land was thus sequestrated was 321, nameh',
132 in the province of Algiers, and 189 in that of Constantine ; of these 154
purchased back their land for sums of money, 121 sacrificed a portion of the
land itself, and 46 paid partly in money and partly in land. The total
amount in money received was 8,637,000 f. and in land 288,968 hectares,
while the war contribution exacted from the insurgents was little short of the
sum originally demanded, 30 millions of francs.
In 1873 a large number of families from Alsace and Lorraine were induced
to emigrate to Algeria through the action of the Societe j^i'otectricc dcs
AJsacicns-Lorraincs, presided over by the Comte d'Haussonville. 670 families
arriving without means of any kind were provided with concessions of land,
houses, seed, and the means of living comfortably till after the first harvest.
Others having some small means of their own received liberal assistance to
enable thera to settle under favourable conditions in the country, and large
concessions were given from the sequestrated land to older colonists.
The result from 1871 to 1883 may thus be summarised. The area of land
devoted to colonisation is 475,807 hectares, of which 347,268 has been given
to individuals and the rest to communes. The value of this land is estimated
at 43,267,991 f. The state has expended for the installation of colonists
16,568,507 f. The number of individual concessions is 12,270, and the num-
ber of families settled on them is 10,030. Of this number, 3474 having failed
to comply with the conditions of their grants, these were revoked and re-
conceded to 3526 new families. Of the 10,030 families originally provided
Inlrod. § 13. colonisation, agriculture, forests, etc. 83
for, 5837 were still resident on their concessions, 718 had let their land, and
MIS had sold it.
Cereals. — The principal cereals grown are wheat, barley, and rye, but
agriculture may still be said to be in its infancy. In England the mean
jiroduce of land may be taken at 25 bushels an acre ; in France it is about
14 ; but in Algeria, in sjute of the natural richness of the soil, the average
yield, under European culture, is only 8 or 9 bushels, while the Arab rarely
obtains more than six times the amount of seed corn. The reason of this is
that the land has never been deeply ploughed ; it is not manured, and little
or no care is taken to free it from the noxious weeds which choke the com
and exhaust the soil. In tlie Tell, the region most favourable for agriculture,
tliere are more than 30 millions of acres, of which not more than 10 or 12
millions are planted with cereals. The total production of the colony in an
average year is about 350 millions of bushels. The wheat, and especially
the hard reheat, is much sought for in Europe for the manufacture of mac-
aroni, vermicelli, etc., on account of the large quantity of gluten which it
contains. The barley is the species called Hordcxim hcxasticum, and is prin-
cipally used as food for cattle. A smaller quantity of oats, maize, and beans
is also grown ; but the soil and climate of Algeria seem peculiarly suitable for
fruits and vegetables, which are produced in perfection. In December and
January the liclds are filled with all those which are seen in Paris and London
only in spring and summer. Owing to the increasing competition of India
and America the cultivation of cereals can hardly prove remunerative in this
country, aTid la!ul has conse([uently become depreciated, in some jilaces to the
amount of -5 per cmt.
Fruit and Vegetables. — Among the more important are peas, beans (of
which there are many different kinds), cauliflowers, turnips, parsnips, carrots,
gherkins, beetroot, cucumbers, gourds, artichokes, asparagus, mushrooms,
pimento (or red pepper), lettuces, onions and potatoes, which last yield two
croi)s yearly. Among the fruits are apricots, strawberries, plums, melons,
water-melons, cherries, bananas, pomegranates, pears, apples, etc. Many of
the vegetables are gathered all the year round. Madder, lienna (used for
dyeing the nails), colza, opium, saffron, balm, aniseed, and many peculiar
sjjecies of plants are also cultivated.
Tlie fig is found everywhere, but especially in the mountains of Kabylin,
up to 3800 ft. above the sea ; it forms one of the staple articles of food
amongst the Kabyles, who eat it in great quantities when fresh, and dry
numbers of it for winter use ; it is also exported for the distillation of a spirit
much in use amongst the Jewish community.
The orange tribe grow admirably, and are most productive in many jiarls
of the colony ; the best places for their culture are at the foot and in the
gorges of mountain ranges, where the air is fresh and cool, and abundant
means of irrigation obtainable ; they cannot be grown successfully at a greater
elevation than 500 feet above the level of the sea. Many other fruits of an
intertropical origin flourish in the same region, such as the banana, the
guava, tlie aligator pear {I'rrsca gralissima), the loquat {Eriobolnja jiijtonica),
and several others.
84 § lli- COLONLSATION, AGRICULTURE, FORESTS, ETC. Alfjcrid
Tlie datc-ti'eo (I'hccnix dadylifcru) is only cultivated in and near tlio Sahara,
of wliicli it has rightly been called the king ; without it the entire desert would
lie uninhabited and uninhabitable. The 33d parallel of latitude appears to
bo the limit nortii of which it will not ripen its fruit save under very excep-
tional circumstances. It requires not only abundant imgation, but great
solar heat ; the Arabs say that it stands with its feet in the Avater and its
head in the lires of heaven. The love of the Arab for this precious tree may
well be imagined, growing as it does in the sand, contenting itself with water
so saline as to destroy ordinary vegetation, giving a grateful shade when all
around is burnt up by the ardent heat of summer, resisting the winds which
liend but cannot break its flexible stem, aifording a fruit sought for in every
jiart of the world, and not only sufficing for the food of the producer but
aifording a valuable means of exchange by which he may supply all his other
wants.
The male tree of course bears no fruit ; it has merely a bunch of flowers
enclosed until maturity within a spathe. The females have also bunches of
flowers, which, however, cannot become developed into fruit until fecundated
by the pollen of the male flower. To ensure this result the Arabs ascend the
trees in the month of April, and insert into every female spathe a portion of
the pollen of the male flower. The fruit then begins to swell, and forms
long clusters weighing from 20 to 40 lbs., each tree producing from 100 to
200 lbs. in a season. To multiply the date-tree the Arabs do not sow the
seed, as tlicy could not then be sure of the sex of the trees ; they prefer to
plant the suckers from the base of a female tree, whence the name Ph<enix ;
tliese become productive in about eight years, but do not attain full fruition
liefore twenty or twenty-five. The trees are about 45 ft. high, and as they
are planted very close together they afford a dense shade, in which, however,
the air circulates freelj', so that all kinds of fruit, vegetables, etc., can be
cultivated below them. The trees will live for about 200 years, but they are not
worth preserving after a century. "When they are no longer valuable for the
fruit, the sap is extracted to make a kind of insipid wine ; and the heart or
cabbage of the tree is also eaten. They are then cut down, and the wood,
although very inferior in quality, is here valuable, where no other kind can
lie procured. The roots are used for fencing and roofing, and the leaves are
made into mats, baskets, sacks, and cord.
Like all other species of cultivated plants, the date-tree has numerous
varieties. In the oases of the Ziban alone seventy distinct varieties are
recognised.
The trees come into flower in spring, in March or April, and the fruit is
ripe about October.
Tobacco is cultivated with great success, the produce being extremely
good ; and the Reports of the Juries of the Exhibitions of 1851 in Loudon,
and 1855 in Paris, were both most favourable. Indeed, the tobacco of Algeria
is said to be finer and of better quality than even that of America, Flax and
hemp also are grown to a considerable extent, and cotton has been tried with
success ; it was cultivated in the Tell by the Turks before the French con-
([uest. At the London Exhibition of 1851 uo fewer than eleven prizes were
Introd. § 13. COLONISATION, AORICULTURE, FORESTS, ETC. 85
granted to samples of cotton from Algeria. Still this country is never likely
to become a great cotton-iiroducing one ; there is not sufficient land capable'
of irrigation, and labour is so scarce that almost any other kind of culture is
more remunerative.
But perhaps the most promising culture in which the colonist can engage
is that of the vine. M. Dejernon, wlio was sent by the French Government
to report on the subject, thus states his general impressions regarding it :
"In my eyes the vine is a jirovidential plant for Algeria ; it prospers every-
where, in the worst land, on the most burning soil. In the three provinces I
have not found a spot which is unfit for it ; everywhere also, but especially
on the littoral, I have tasted wine rich in alcohol, and which would have had
jirecious qualities if only it had been better made. The vine will become the
fortune of the country. . . . Algeria possesses in its geological structure, in
tlie rays of its sun, in the currents of its air, in its topographical details, those
precious qualities which give to the products of the vine their tone, their
colour, their delicacy and limpidity. It can produce an infinite variety of
wines, suited to every constitution and to every caprice of taste."
The disaster of France was Algeria's opportunity. The cultivation of the
vine in France suffered so much by the ravages of the Phylloxera that immense
tracts of country, once the richest vineyards in the world, were dug up and
put under cultivation with ci-reals, which did not yield more than a fraction
of their former revenue.
To protect the cultivation of the vine in Algeria from this scourge, a decree
was passed on the 24th June 1878, prohibiting the' importation of cuttings,
vine leaves used as packing, fresh fruit and vegetables, and trees and plants of
every description. Potatoes only are allowed to be introduced, after having
been thoroughly washed. Nevertheless all precautions have failed to prevent
the importation of the disease ; it has been observed in various places, especi-
ally at Philijipeville ; the most active measures are adopted for its detection
and eradication when observed, and during 1888 it was not noticed in any
new place.
In 1888 an area of 88,326 hectares was planted in vines, and the quantity
of wine produced was little short of 3 millions of hectolitres. The quality is
as good as the quantity is consideralile ; not only does the colony produce
sulUcient for its own consumption, but great quantities are exported to Bor-
deaux, whence, after some manipulation, it is exported as the celebrated
vintage of that country. Quantities are also sent to other places in the
south of France, mixed with wine manufactured from dry raisins and .sold in
Paris as Algerian wine.
Another important production of Algeria is a natural one, Alfa fibre
(Arab. Haifa) or Esparto grass, under which name are confounded several
species of graminre, and especially the Stipa teimcissima, Linn., or Mncrochlod
tcnacissimu, Kunth., and the Lyrjciim spartum, Linn. The former is the
llulfa of the Arabs, the latter the Esparto of the Spaniards. Both arc
abundant in Algeria, but the first is almost the sole vegetable of tlic High
Plateaux ; it occurs in the greatest quantities, and is principally cxportetl
from Algeria. It is calculated that the area of these High Plateaux is about
8(; §13. COLONISATION, AflRICUIiTUnK, FORKSTH, KTC. Ahjeria
27 millions of acres, of wliicli surface not less than 10 niillions of acres are
covered with Ilulfa.
It is ahiiost all exportcil to Enfjlaiul for the manufacture of paper, and
Mr. Edward Lloyd, who first organised this trade, is undoubtedly one of the
greatest benefactors to Algeria. During 1887 upwards of 2,250,000 metric
quintals were gathered, jirincipally in the department of Oran.
The fibre made from the leaves of the dwarf palm, called Crin vigital, is
also coming into great demand in the European markets, especially in Germany.
It is used both for the manufacture of paper and for stufiing furniture, but for
the latter purpose the principal objection is its strong fa-tid odour, which
hitherto has not been successfully removed.
Flora of Algeria. — The first idea of the traveller in reaching Algiers is
the dissimilarity between the vegetation he sees and that which he has left
behind. Instead of the familiar hawthorn hedges he finds enclosures sur-
rounded by the agave and prickly pear ; ancient olives and masses of lentisk
festooned with clematis ; fields covered with narcissus, iris, various kinds of
ophris, and generally bright with flowers of every hue ; .shady nooks in which
grow the African cyclamen with its marbled leaves ; in less cultivated ground
dwarf palm, arbutus, tree -heath, and cistus form a onakis in noOTse less
beautiful than that for which Corsica is so celebrated ; while in the gardens,
roses, geraniums, violets, and all manner of cultivated flowers bloom through-
out the winter. But soon this idea is weakened ; he sees that the vegetation
is purely European in its character, and almost every plant he finds is a native
(if Southern Europe, though growing here with greater luxuriance. The flora
of Algeria consists of about 3000 sjiecies, of which not more than 450 are
indigenous to the colony, and of this number 100 are peculiar to the Sahara.
Until quite lately there was no good work on the botany of Algeria, easily
accessible to the traveller. The monumental works of Desfontaines and
Cosson are of course the great standards, and Munby's Catalogus Plantarum
in Algeria sponte nascentum contains a tolerably accurate list, but there was
great need of something in the form of a scientific and descriptive catalogue.
This has now been supplied by two local botanists, professors in the Ecole
de Medecine, whose work^ will be universally hailed as a most valuable con-
tribution to Algerian literature.
System of Agriculture. — The system of agi-iculture pursued by the natives
difl"ers considerably in diflerent regions ; the Kabyles cultivate their land
much more intelligently and carefully than the Arabs. The usual agrarian
measure amongst the Arabs is the extent which can be ploughed during a
season by one plough and two oxen : this varies, according to the nature
of the soil, from 25 to 50 acres. The season for ploughing commences im-
mediately after the first rains of autumn, usually in October or November,
and continues till February, and even later for some crops if abundant rain
has fallen.
1 "Flore de I'Alg^rie, ancienne Flore d'Alger transform^e, contenaut la description de
toutes les plantes signalees jusqu'a ce jour comme spontanees en Algerie. Par Battandier
et Trabut, Professeurs 4 I'Eeole de Jledecine et de Pharmacie d'Alger. Algiers : 1st Part,
ISSS ; 2d Part, 1SS9. Each 4 frs. To be continued.
Introd.
§13. COLONISATION, AGRICULTtTRR, FOUKSTi^, KTC.
87
When the proprietor does not liimself farm his own land, he lets it
to a kharnis (or one-fiftli) ; that is, to a farmer who pays tlie owner four
and retains for his own use one-fiftli of the crop. The owner, liowever, is
bound to supply oxen for ploughing, seed corn, and advances of money until
harvest.
Otlier arrangements are common, chiefly amongst Europeans, where the
proprietor receives two-thirds or one-half of the crop, according to the amount
of aid he renders to the tenant.
In the High Plateaux agriculture is carried on under very different con-
ditions. If the soil has not been thoroughly .saturated there, the cultivator
hardly obtains the amount of his seed corn ; but after a rainy winter, or where
irrigation is possible, the wliole region is covered witli tlie most exuberant
vegetation. One grain produces from 150 to 200 heads of corn, and the
cultivator is largely indemnified for the losses of the previous year. A cuiious
botanical curiosity was sent to the Governor-General of Algeria in 1862 from
M'sila, — a plant of wheat, produced from a single grain, having 400 cars of
corn. The fertility of tliis district has been celebrated from the earliest times,
and Strabo asserts that it often produced two crops a year, and in some places
yielded 240 times the amount of seed sown. Pliny conlirmed tliese assertions,
and cited the instance of a plant of wheat sent to Nero with 340 ears ui>on it.
The natives construct rude barrages to collect the rain water and utilise the
overllow of the river, and several Artesian wells have been sunk by the French,
and everywhere with success.
Forests. — The extent of forest land in Algeria, according to the latest
statistics, is as follows : —
Departments.
Stat« Forests.
Communal
Forests.
Total.
Algiers . . .
Orau ....
Constantine
Hectares.
436,780
564,784
963,873
Hectares.
22,735
15,628
41,260
Hectares.
459,515
580,412
1,005,133
Totals . .
1,965,437
79,623
2,045,060
The area of state and communal forests consists of tlic following
Hectares.
Alejjpo pine ..... 813,665
Maritime pine ..... 536
Ilex 604,954
Cork 277,886
Chcnc zccn (Q. mirhcclcii) . . . 62,585
Cedar 42,882
Thuya 24,039
Miscellaneous 245,060
trees : —
Total
2,071.607
88 §1^- cor.oNTSATroN, AfjRicuLTTTiiK, FORFiftTS, TOTC. Ahjeria
Tlicre arc also about ol 1,000 lic-ctares of private forest.
Tlic total number of trees of every description is estimated at 12,000,000.
The most valuable timber trees are —
The Cork oak [Quercus suher). It is stripped of its bark every eight or
ten years in the summer months ; but it is allowed to reach the age of fourteen
or fifteen years untouched. Incisions are made longitudinally and tiansversely
on the trunk, when the cork can be removed in large squares. This operation
is called "deinasclage." The cork obtained the first time is thin and hard,
and is chiefly used for the manufacture of lamp-black, for painting. The pro-
duce of the second and third cuttings is also inferior, after which the cork is
of the best quality. The trees usually furnish fifteen or twenty harvests, and
should produce each time an average of 100 to 150 lbs. of cork, although as
much as 900 lbs. is sometimes obtained fi'om one tree.
The Chene zeen [Quercus mirheckii), used as timber for building purposes,
railway-sleepers, etc. It affects cool, moist situations, and is found in an
extensive zone of the Tell, from La Calle as far as Tlemt^en.
The Chene vert {Quercus ilex), also a valuable timber.
The chestnut-leaved oak (Q. castanecefolia) occurs only in the mountains,
and never descends lower than 3000 ft. above the sea.
The sweet acorn oak [Q. hallota), a handsome tree, which grows abundantly
in poor soil and at all altitudes, and produces a large harvest witliout labour
or expense. The acorn is eaten roasted ; the Kabyles also grind it, and make
couscous with the flour. This acorn has lately been largely exported to Eurojje
for the adulteration of coffee.
Amongst the Coniferre are the atlas cedar (C'eclrus atlantka), the principal
forests of which are in the Aures mountains, near Batna and at Teniet-el-Ahd,
the trees there rising sometimes to the height of SO ft., with a girth of 20 ft.
The Abies or Pinsapo of Babor. The Aleppo pine {Pinus halcpensis), producing
about £40,000 worth of resin annually. The Thuya or Atlas cypress {Callitris
quadrivalvis), the trunks of which are almost imjierishable, and the roots of
which afford one of the richest and most beautiful of ornamental woods.
There are two species of juniper, and tamarisks are found on the margins of
salt lakes.
There is a very handsome ash {Fraxinus australis), indigenous to the
Atlas, and a pistachio (P atlantica) peculiar to it.
The olive is only grown to perfection in Kabylia, commencing at an eleva-
tion of about 2600 ft. above the sea ; the trees as a rule receive very little care,
and, as a consequence, they do not yield an abundant harvest oftener than
once in two years. The fruit is small, but the oil is of an excellent quality.
The tree grows, and even bears abundantly, in regions lower down ; but there
it is apt to suffer from the heats of summer, and the fruit is liable to be injured
by the attacks of an insect, the Dacus olece, which cause it to fall before
maturity. It has been calculated that there is in Algeria sufficient land,
admirably adapted for its cultivation, to contain 100 millions of trees, which
would yield 100 million litres of oil, worth annually 800 millions of francs,
which result could be obtained in about twenty-five years.
The forests throughout Algeria, and to a much greater degree in Tunis
Tntrod § 14. ARCHiEOLor.Y 89
liave been greatly injured by periodical confiagratious caused by the Arabs, in
some cases out of motives of enmity towards the French, in others for the
sake of obtaining better pasturage for their flocks ; the most destructive were
in I860, during the insurrection of 1871, in the month of April 1873, and in
the summer of 1877. The surface more or less damaged bj- lire is, on an
average of the last five years, about 28,000 hectares per annum.
The question of the rchoisemcnt of Algeria is therefore one of the most
important matters that can engage the attention of the State. To effect
this by planting the trees indigenous to the country would certainly be a long
and costly operation ; but with the Australian species, remarkable for their
rapid growth, the question becomes much more easy of solution. Thanks to
the indefatigable perseverance of three men, ilessrs. Raramell, Cordier, and
Trottier, veritable benefactors to this country, Algeria has been endowed with
a precious boon, the introduction of the eucalyptus, a tree which, by rea.son
of its rapid growth and its property of absorbing miasma, will undoubtedly
exercise a powerful influence in changing the climate both of dry and malarious
parts of the colony. Many species have been tried, but the most generally
successful are the red-gum of Australia {Eucalyphis resini/era), the Tasmanian
blue-gum (E. fjlohxdus), and the E. Colossca.
It is impossible to foresee to what size these trees may attain in Africa, but
in Australia they sometimes reach a height of 300 ft., and are hardly less in
circumference than the giant Wellingtouias of California. Some of the Aus-
tralian acacias and casuarinas are hardly less valuable than the eucalyptus,
)iut none of them can be cultivated with success at a greater altitude than
1 "lOO ft. above the sea.
§ 14. AllCHiEOLOGY.
To the student of history, the archseologist, and the philologist, Algeria
and Tunis ofl'er a vast field for exploration and research, and, what is so
difiicult to find elsewhere, one whose riches are far from being exhausted.
All over the former country, but especially in the province of Constantine,
are scattered prehistoric monuments ; assemblages of rude stones, dolmens,
cromlechs, excavations in the rock ; in fact almost every known variety of
Megalithic remains.
Some of these are close to Algiers, near Guyotville ; others at Djelfa.
In the province of Constantine are the monuments of Riis-el-Akba,
between Guelmaand Constantine ; of Bou-Mcrzouk ; of Roknia, near Ilamman
Meskoutin ; at the foot of the Heni-Saleh mountains in the Oued Besbes ;
south of La Calle ; at Foum-el-Mabrek and N'guib, near Bone; at Gastel,
between Souk-Ahras and Tebessa ; near M'daourouch ; and all over the
country of the Nememcha and the Aures mountains. A manufactory of flint
instruments was found near Negrin at the ruins of Besseriani (Jd majorcs).
Leaving this prehistoric period, we find abundant traces of I'hcenicinn
occupation, if not in actual ruins, at least in the names of places, especially
seaports, showing that the I'lKcnicians created commercial establishments
all along the north coast of Africa, wlicrcver a creek promised shelter for
90 § 14. AUcnyT;or,ooT Ahjervi
their frail Init advcnturoua bandies. The Carthaf^iiiiaiis, wlio followed in
tlieir stei).s, iouiulcd cities fartlier inland, and several Punic inscriptions have
been found at a considerable distance from the sea.
Then followed the long and bloody wars which terminated in the ruin of
Carthage and the occupation of her colonies by the Romans, about the middle
of the second century, ii.c.
These were at first left under the government of native princes, such as
Masinissa, Bocchus, and Juba, the first and last of whom erected those
gigantic sepulchres, the Medrassen and the Tombeau de la Chretienne, near
I5atna and Algiers. Subsequently, about a.d. 40, the country was reduced
to the condition of a Roman province.
Magnificent ruins remain to attest the glory of this epoch : temples
dedicated to every deity in heathen mythology, theatres, triumphal arche.s,
architectural details in the purest style of art, mosaics of rich colour and
varied design, baths, monumental fountains, and hydraulic works, all testify-
ing to the vast extent and solidity of the Roman sway in Africa.
The early Christian epoch is equally well represented by basilicas trans-
formed into churches, inscriptions containing the name of Christ, Christian
symbols and monograms, the graves of bishops, saints and martyrs, and
above all the scenes consecrated by the life, ministry, and death of Saint
Augustine, and his no less saintly mother, Monica — of that friend of his youth
and of his old age, Alypius of Tagaste ; of his no less beloved friend Possidius,
who subsequently became his biographer. Here also may be studied with
advantage the scenes of those frantic theological wars which caused the down-
fall of the African Church.
The next epoch was more marked by destruction than construction.
Count Boniface, governor of Africa in the fourth century, having conceived
the idea of rendering himself independent of Rome, called in the Vandals to
assist him ; they came, and soon made themselves masters of the country.
At first they well sustained their destructive reputation, but subsequently they
so lost their vigorous and warlike habits that Belisarius, at the head of a
small phalanx of well-disciplined soldiers, had little difficulty in destroying
them, and annexing Africa to the Eastern empire. The Byzantines under
Solomon, the lieutenant and successor of Belisarius, commenced to restore the
most important military buildings throughout the country, such as those at
Tebessa, M'daourouch, and elsewhere, still in good preservation, and unmis-
takably renewed with older Roman materials.
When intestine feuds and disputed successions had vsrought the ruin of
the Eastern empire, Africa was thrown into such a state of confusion as to
pave the way for the most marvellous conquest that the world's history
contains.
A mere handful of Arab soldiers under Okba ben Nafa, with the sword in
one hand and the Koran in the other, overran and conquered North Africa,
from the Nile to Tangiers. ]\Iany vicissitudes took place, and Okba himself
was killed ere this conquest was consolidated, but eventually all the native
races adopted the new religion, and became more or less assimilated to the
Arabs. Many of them no doubt passed over into Spain with Tarek, whose
Introd. § 14. ARCHiEOLOGY 91
name lives impeiislialily in OiintAi.TAii (the mountain of Tarek), although he
himself shared even a worse fate than his protloccssor, Helisarius.
The ei)Och of the first Mohammedan invasion is well marked by the tomb
of Okba, near Biskra, which still bears what is [trobably the oldest Moham-
medan inscription in Africa, if not in the world — This is the (oiitb of Okhd bmi
Nafa : may (lod have mercy upon him I
The descendants of these conquerors did great things in the land of their
adoption : they founded important kingdoms, of which that of Tlem(;cn is
pre-eminent, both from its past history and the splendour of its existing
monuments. They encouraged art, science, and literature, and attained a
degree of splendour hardly inferior to that of the Romans.
This progressing civilisation, however, was checked by tlie invasion of a
horde of savage nomades from Arabia, who devastated the country and forced
the aboriginal inhabitants to take refuge in their mountain fastnesses, and
even to found new colonies beyond the great desert, such as Timbuctoo and
Senegal.
At the end of the fifteenth century the Moors expelled from Spain found
a shelter in Algeria, where they were speedily followed bj' their conquerors.
These were not always victorious, but they succeeded in forming a few colonies
on the coast, the ruins of which exist in great abundance at Oran, Bougie,
and even at Algiers.
We need not here dwell on the Turkisli period, which has been described
elsewhere, and which has hardly yet passed into the realms of archajology,
but there is much, especially in its domestic architecture, to delight and
interest the tourist.
We have said sufficient to show that there arc few countries olTering a
wider field of study to the archseologist, or of instruction to the general
traveller, than Algeria and Tunis.
SECTION II
ALGERIA
CITY OF ALGIERS
Fortified place of the first class, seat
of the Governmoiit-Oeneral, and of the
various otliur liigli civil ami military
authorities of tlie colony. Residence
of Admiral commanding the Marine in
Algeria, an Archbislio]), and of the
various Consuls- Genend and Consuls
of foreign powers.
Court of A]ipeal, Council of Moham-
niedan Law, Tiihunalof First Instance,
two Justices of the Peace, Chamber and
Trilninal of Commerce.
Chief place of the de])artnient or
province. Prefecture, Headciuarters
nf the 19tli Corps d'Armee, of the
division ami subdivision of Algiers.
Population of tlic Provbuc.
French
.lews .
Moliaminrdaiis .
Foreigners .
Total
98,807
11,5S2
l,0S2,lo«
50,127
1,251,072
Population of tlie city of Algiers, in-
cluding tlic suburb of Biih-cl-Oiird and
tlie F(ii(l)oii)-g (Visit/, but excluding tlie
rUlnije d'Ishi, El-Biar, Bou-Znirit,
Mii^hifd, and St. Emjbic : —
Frencli 29,052
Jews 5,:i50
Kuropeaiis of foreign origin 15,500
Molianmicdaiis . . . 21,431
Total . 71,339
El-Biar:—
French C58
Jews 19
Foreit^ners .... .'i57
.Mohaniniedans . . . 1238
Total . . 2272
Bou-Zarea : —
French 245
.Icw.s 2
I'oreigners .... 804
Jlohannnedan.s . . . 558
Total . Ifm
Mu.stafa and the Village d'Isly : —
French 8612
Jew.s 135
Foreigners .... 724
Mohannnedans . . . 4147
Total . . i:!,iilS
St. Engine : —
French 868
Jews 412
I''nrci>;ner.s .... 454
Moliannnnl.'ins . . . 012
Total . . 2:!46
ALGIERS, the ancient Icoxium, is
situated on the western shore of tile bay of
tiie same name, r)00 ni. S. of Marseilles.
Tlie town, which is triangular in form,
is l)uilt on a slope of the Sulul, {\w name
given to a chain of hills running along
the coast for a consiilerable distance
towards the W. The view, when
approaching it Irom the sea, is most
94
AUJIIORS
Algeria
buautiful. Il appears from a distance
like a succession of dazzling white
steps or terraces rising from the water,
which, contrasting with the bright green
liackground of the Sahel, explains the
origin of the Arab comparison of Algiers
to a diamond set in an emerald frame.
The shores of the bright blue bay
are dotted here and tliere with white
\illages, French villas, and Moorish
jialaccs, apj)earing in the midst of the
richest and most luxuriant verdure,
some placed high up on the slopes of
the hills, and others standing on the
water's edge. Beyond is the verdant
plain of the Metidja, stretching away
in the distance to the foot of the Atlas
range, whose summits form a magni-
ficent background to the whole picture,
which will bear comparison with any
in Europe. The writer always main
tains that the finest view in the Medi
terranean is from the Greek theatre of
Taormina, and the next finest is from
his own windows at El-Biar.
Algiers is divided into two distinct
parts, the modern French town and
the ancient city of the Deys.
The Modern Town consists of regular
streets and squares, fine public build-
ings, and modern hotels, and is well
lighted with gas. The Place du Gou-
verncmcnt is a fine large square, in
which the principal streets. Rue Bab-
Azoun and Rue Bab-el-Oued, join,
planted on three sides with a doulde
row of plane-trees. In front of the
Hotel de la Regence is a group of palm
and orange trees, and a remarkably
fine clump of bamboos, surrounding a
fountain. Towards the eastern side is
a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke
of Orleans by Marochetti. It was cast
out of the cannon taken at the con-
quest of Algiers. The bas-reliefs on
the pedestal reju'esent on the N. the
taking of the citadel of Antwerp ; and
on the S. the passage of the Col de
IMouzaia. This Square is the fashion-
al)le resort for evening promenade,
when it is crowded Avitli loungers of
every grade and race. A military
band performs liere occasionally.
The Place Bresson, opening like the
preceding ou to the Boulevard de la
Republi(jne, has a pleasant garden in
the centre. The Plaxc Bob-cl-Oued,
or Place d'Armes, is a triangxilar s])ace
near the shore, adjoining the Arsenal.
This was the site of the ancient
Moorish cemetery ; the N. aide was
reserved for the interment of the
pachas, and in the middle was the fort
" des vingt-quatre heure.s," rendered
celelirated as the place of martyrdom
of Geronimo (see p. 98). This was also
the ordinary place of execution, both
under the Turkish fiovernment and
for the first 3'ears which followed the
conquest. On one side of this place is
the Jardin ilarengo, which commands
a fine view. The other principal squares
of the French town are the Place Mahon,
adjoining the Place du Gouvernement ;
the Place de Chartrcs, used as a market-
place ; the Place de la Lyre, in whicli
is a covered market ; the Place dJIsly,
in the centre of which stands a bronze
statue of Marshal Bugeaud, by M.
Dumont ; and the Plctces Randoii, and
Malakh off. The RucBah-el- Oued (River
Gate), and Rue Bab-Azoun (Gate of
Grief), both leading from the Place du
Gouvernement, are the two most im-
jtortant streets of the city, and contain
the best shops. Among the other
principal streets of this quarter are
the Rues de la Lyre, de Chartres, Juha,
de la Marine, and d'Isly, some of which
are arcaded on both sides — a great ad-
vantage in this climate, as the pedes-
trian is thereby enabled to reach any
part of the town without being mucli
exposed to the sun in summer or to
the rain in winter. The Boulevard de
la Rqmbliquc is built on a series of
arches at the head of the clift', and
extends all along the front of the
town. On one side it is bordered by
handsome buildings, while a wide
[iromenade runs along the other, over-
looking the bay, harbour, and shipping.
The Quay and Railway Station are
about 40 ft. below, and are reached by
two inclined roads leading from the
centre of the Boulevard. This work
was constructed by Sir Morton Peto, to
whom the town transferred the conces-
sion for 99 years, which had been
granted to it bj' the Imperial decree of
1860. The first stone was laid by the
Sect. II
ALGIERS
9'»
Emperor on tlic 17th September 1860,
and the work was completed in 1866,
at a cost of about £300,000. It is still
the property of an English company.
It is composed of two tiers of vaults,
Ibrming about 350 warehouses and
dwelling-houses, the whole occupying
an area of 11 acres, and extending over
a frontage of 3700 ft.
The Old Town, inhabited chiefly by
Arabs and Jews, lies on the steep hill
rising behind the Kues Bab-Azouu and
Bab-el-Oued, and is the very opposite
of the French town already described.
At the apex of the triangular -shaped
mass of white houses stands the Kasha,
or Citadel, about 400 ft. above the
shore.
The Streets are very narrow, tortu-
ous, and irregular, often ending in a cid
de sac, and are so steep as to be inac-
cessible for carriages. They are cool
and shady, owing to their extreme nar-
rowness. The longest of them, the
Rue de la Kaslia, is ascended by 497
.stcjis. Tliesc streets are joined by many
alleys just wide enough to pass through,
and the whole labyrinth is terribly con-
fusing to the stranger ; many of the
Arab names have been retained, but so
travestied as hardly to be recognisable ;
thus' El- Akhdar (the Green) becomes
[Mi-dor ; Souk-cl-Djamia (Market of
the Mosijue) is changed into Soggcmah,
etc.
The Moorish Houses arc perfectly
symbolical of the jirivate life of the
occupants : everything like external de-
coration is studiously avoided, while the
interior is pictures([Ue and elegant. The
outer door usually gives entrance to a
vestibule, or .sLi'lIu, on each side of whi( h
is a stone bench divided olf like stalls
by marble or stone columns, supporting
the graceful Hat arch peculiar to Algiers.
Here it is that the master receives his
male friends. Beyond this is the oiisf,
or oi)en court, tlic i/ii/iluviioii of the
Romans, and the pa/ to of the Spaniards,
generally }iaved with marble, tiles, or
Ijricks, having an arcade all round,
formed l)y the pillars and tiie horseshoe
arches which sujiport the upper gallery.
The pavement of the court enclosed by
the an^atle is usually .sunk a few inches,
in order to carry off the rain-water.
In this central court the great domestic
festivities, sucli as marriage, circumci-
sion, etc. are held. Tiie rooms around
it are more or less of a public cliaracter ;
at least they are not used as dwell-
ings by the family ; they are usually
kitchens, storerooms, baths, etc. The
more jtrivate apartments are all above,
leading ofl" from the upper gallery,
which is similar to tlie lower one, but
having the pillars joined by an elegant
wooden balustrade, just high enough to
lean on. The rooms have generally
large folding- doors reaching from the
floor to the ceiling, with a smaller aper-
ture in each leaf, which may be used
when it is too cold to keep the whole
open. The interiors are whitewashed,
and have generally a dado of tiles 3 or
4 ft. high along the walls. The ceil-
ings are sometimes handsomely sculp-
tured, but more generally they exhibit
the naked rafters of thuya or kharoob
wood, Jiine, or cedar. It was the small
scantling of this, in times when the
communication with other countries
was less easy than it is at present, that
regulated the width of iloorish rooms,
seldom more than 12 ft.
One of the principal features of
Moorish houses in town, rising as they
do one above the other, is the flat ter-
raceil roofs, from which a magniticent
view is obtained of the city, tiie harbour
and shipping, and the distant mountains.
Under the Turkish Government tliese
were reserved for the women alone, who
used to visit each other by climbing
over the ])arapets which divided the
houses. No Christian male (the con-
suls excepted) was ever permitted to go
on his own terrace during daylight.
Dr. Shaw, consular chaplain at Al-
giers about 1720, and whose travels
and researches in IJarbary are deservedly
esteemed for their accuracy and lidelity,
illustrates many passages of Scripture
by a reference to Moorish architecture.
For instance, the middle of tin- limisc
(Luke v. 19), where our Saviour was in
the habit of giving instruction to His
disciples, was no doubt the hollow
Moorish court or wHsi (literally, waist,
OG
ALGIERS
A Ujeria
luiddli;). This in .suiiiincr was covered
(jver witli a furlaiii riiiiiiiiiff on ropes,
to which the I'salniist may liave alluded
in speakinf( of sjircadiiig uiU the heavens
like a curlaiii. The prophet Jeremiah
exactly describes Algerian houses when
he says that they were ceiled with cedar
and 2}aintcd tuith vermilion. Any one
who has seen a Moorish court can
understand the allusion to Samson
having pulled down the pillars in the
Temple of Dagon, while three thousand
persons were on the roof to see him make
sjwrt.
Some of the Moorish houses best
worthy of a visit in town are the
palaces of the Governor -General and
Archbishop, and the Library in the Rue
de I'Etat-^lajor ; the Government offices
near the Prefecture, formerly the British
Consulate ; and in the country, the
Governor-General's summer palace ; the
Chateau d'Hydra, belonging to Mr. Eyre
Ledgard, in which there is a priceless
collection of ancient tiles ; and the
magniticent property of Mr. Macleay at
El-Biar.
The Shops in the native quarter are
merely recesses or small chambers in
the walls of the houses, and in them
is canied on the process of manufac-
turing some of the articles which are
exposed for sale in the shops of the
French town below. Here maj' be seen
the embroiderer at work with his gold
and silver thread, the shoemaker with
kid slippers of every colour and variet}-,
the pedagogue with his school of young
Moors, the worker in gold and silver,
the barber shaving Moorish heads or
chins ; and the cafes where the natives
sit cross-legged drinking coffee, and
while away tlieir time in smoking and
playing draughts. Indeed, a walk
through the old town is of greater
interest to the stranger than any of the
sights of modern Algiers. But perhaps
what most strikes the traveller from
Europe on first walking through the
city is the variety and picturesqueness
of Costumes (see also Introd. pp. 8, 10,
11) he meets in the streets. French
soldiers and officers, Zouaves and
Turcos, with their smart uniforms ;
the Jew, with dark-coloured turban,
jacket and sash, blue stockings and
shoes ; the Moor, in smartly em-
broidered jacket, lull short trousers,
and white stockings ; bare-legged Arabs,
wrapi)ed in their white burnous ; Moza-
bites, with their coats of many colours ;
Negroes from the Soudan ; Spaniards
and Alaltese, all jostle one another in
the crowded streets ; while Moorish
women, dressed in white, with full
trousers, slippers, and tlieir faces
covered to the eyes, mingle with ladies
in fashionable modern toilets, and with
Jewesses whose jaws are bound with a
nauslin handkerchief, and whose straight
silk robes reach from the neck to the
slippered feet.
CHURCHES.
Church of England. — The Church of
the Holy Trinity, at the Port d'Isly,
was erected in 187T) by subscription of
the winter visitors, for whose use it is
intended. It was consecrated by the
Bishop (Harris) of Gibraltar, on the 1st
January 1871. The patronage is vested
in the Bishop of Giljraltar.
There is no endowment whatever,
the church and chaplaincy being en-
tirely dependent on voluntary offer-
ings. The offertories as a rule go to
the support of the church, but on cer-
tain occasions, of which notice is given,
they are applied to other purposes,
especially to the relief of poor British
subjects, of whom there are a very
large number in the Colon}-, and who
receive most thankfully the aid which
comes to them from the English Church
through the Consul-General. One-half
of the seats are free ; the remainder are
ai)propriated at a charge of £1 per
sitting for the season. The building,
though not very attractive outside, is
one of the most interesting of its kind
out of England.
A dado has been erected all round
the church, with a more elaborate rere-
dos behind the altar, composed of alter-
nate slabs of different kinds of Xumidian
marbles and breccias (see p. 273), framed
in bands of (jiallo antico and breccia
dorata, surmounted In* a frieze of smaller
tablets of rose-coloured marble. In
the nave and baptistery these contain
memoi'ial inscriptions. The following
are some of the historical tablets : —
Sect. II
ALGIERS
97
The first is in inemoiy of John Typ-
ton, Consul here iu 1580, the first
native-born Consul ever appointed by
England in any country.
1584. Lawrence, Master of Oliphant,
the Master of Morton, and other ban-
ished Scottish gentlemen enslaved at
Algiers, whence they were probably
never released.
1620. Sir Robert Mansel, Vice-Ad-
miral of England, sent by James I.
against Algiers, in command of the
first Englisli Fleet that had entered
the Mediterranean since the crusades.
Itj31. Two Algerine pirate vessels
lauded in Ireland, sacked Baltimore,
and carried oil its inhabitants to slavery
iu Algiers.
1639. William Okeley, taken pris-
oner by pirates. He and .six other
Englislnnen, after much sufl'ering,
escajied to Majorca in a canvas boat.
1644. Eilmuiid Casson, Envoy from
tlie Parliament to Algiers, etfected the
liberation of many hundred Biitish
captives. He died here in 1655.
"January i>t\\, 1644. Gyles Parke,
■ son of John of Holkar, and Elizabeth
Gordon, daugliter of Lord Yicount
lu'Utincere, married in Algear, by Mr.
Siirattc, ilinister. "
"October 21st, 1645. Elizabeth,
daughter of the said Gyles Parke, bap-
tized in Algier, in Barbary."
The last two are extracts from the
parish [register of Cartmel, in Lanca-
shire. It has been found impossible
to identify the "Lord Kentmeere"
therein mentioned ; but there was a
Mscount Kenmure, whose family name
was Gordon.
1654. Blake, after his great victory
at Tuins, etfected the liberation of all
Christian slaves on the Barljary coast.
1660. Murrough, Earl of Inchiquin,
Viceroy of Catjilonia, while exiled dur-
ing the Commonwealth, and his son
Lord O'Brien, afterwards Governor of
Tangier, were taken by corsairs near
the Tagus, and sold into captivity at
Algiers.
1670. Admiral Sir Edward Spragg
destroyed the Algerine fleet at Bougie,
and released a number of Christians.
1723. Tiiomas Betton, member of
the Ironmongers' Company, probably
[^AlijcrkiJ]
himself a captive, left half of his large
fortune for the redemption of slaves in
Barbary.
1800. Ida, daughter of Admiral Ul-
ric, Consul-General of Denmark, 1)orn
1800, married Consul-General M 'Don-
ell. The dramatic story of her escape,
disguised as a midshipman, with her
child concealed in a basket of vege-
tables, before the bombardment in
1816, is told in Lord Exmouth's Dis-
patch. She subsequently married the
Due de Talleyrand- Perigord, and died
at Florence, 6th October 1880.
JIany other historical events are
recorded ; then follow a series of tablets
commemorating such of our conntiy-
men as have died here since the French
occupation.
All the windows have been filled in
with stained glass, generally with
memorial brasses attached, to com-
memorate historical personages or pri-
vate individuals. The large circular
window at the west end is in memory
of the English who perished in captiv-
ity during the time of the Deys. It
represents the deliverance of St. Peter
from prison by the angel, and bears
the inscription, " Lord, show Thy pity
on all ])risoners and captives." One
in the nave is in honour of Bruce, the
African traveller, Consul-General here
from 1762-65. Another commemorates
the gallant exploit of Lord Exmouth
in 1816, who by his great victory liber-
ated 3000 Christian captives, and for
ever abolished slavery in the Barbaiy
States. That next to it is devoted to
his brave companion in arms, the Dutch
Admiral Van Capelhiu : the cost of this
was defrayed partly by his daughter,
and partly by the Princes of Holland.
Next to it is one in memory of Made-
moiselle Tinne, grand-daughter of Ad-
miral Van Capellan, murdered l)y the
Touaregs near Tripoli ; and so on.
On the walls are several mural
tablets ; one contains a list of all the
Consuls and Consuls -General since
1580 ; another is in memory of the
learned Dr. Shaw, Consular Chaplain
at Algiers from 1719-31, and subse-
(|uently Itegius Professor of tireek at
Oxfonl ; a third is in honour of Mr.
William Shaler, Consul-General of the
;»8
A Ijcria
United States, who during all the
troublous times iiroceding and subse-
quent to Lord Kxniouth's oi)crations,
when our Consul was iinjirisoned and
in chains, and when he and his family
were subsequently expelled by the Dey,
rendered most eminent services to them
and to the British nation. A smaller
tablet in coloured marble commemor-
ates the last visit to Algiers of a most
faithful servant of Christ, Edward
Steere, Bishop of Zanzibar. But per-
haps the most interesting of the tablets
is that which records the good deeds of
the Rev. Devereux Spratt (see p. 42).
The last addition is the most beauti-
ful of all ; the whole of the walls and
the reveals of the windows in the apse
and choir have been covered with
marble mosaics, executed by Mr. Burke,
the eminent decorator of the Guards'
Memorial Chapel, Chester Cathedral,
etc. This was our local celebration of
Her Majesty's Jubilee. Our American
friends co-operated heartily in the work,
and two identical tablets of Numidian
marble have been erected in the nave ;
one records the fact that the decoration
of the church was completed on the
occasion of the Queen's Jubilee: "In
humble gratitude to Almighty God for
His preservation of her to her faithful
subjects, during a long and glorious
reign." The other commemorates two
illustrious citizens of the United States,
Commodore Decatur and Captain Bain-
bridge, and ends with a paragraph from
the pen of Bishop Potter of New York,
which has profoundly touched every
English heart : —
" This tablet is erected, June 20, 1887,
by citizens of the United States, grate-
ful for the privilege of associating this
commemoration of their countrymen
with the Jubilee of that illustrious
sovereign Lady, Queen Victoria, who
has made the name of England dear to
children and to children's children
throughout all lands."
The church is the only place at
Algiers which Englishmen can really
call their own. The idea of making it
a sort of National AValhalla will com-
mend itself to most peojile, and the
relatives of such as may die here will
be glad of the opportunity of com-
memorating their departed friends in
a place where the record Mill be rca<l
during all future times.
There is a Scotch Presbyterian
church on the road between Algiers
and Mustafa Superieur, erected entirely
at the expense of an esteemed resident,
Sir Peter Coats.
The Cathedral of St. Philippe
{Roman Catholic), built on the site of
the Mosque of Hassan, named after the
Pacha who built it in 1791, is situated
in the Place Malakotf, next to the
Governor-General's palace. The Arch-
bishopric was created in 1867. The
exterior of the cathedral is quite mod-
ern, and the colours are crude and
unpleasing ; it is a very unsuccessful
attempt to combine Aloorish with
Christian architecture. The principal
entrance, which is reached by a flight
of 23 steps, is ornamented with a
portico, supported by four black-veined
marble columns. The roof of the nave
is of Moorish plaster work, and rests
on a series of arcades, supported by
white marble columns, several of which
belonged to the ancient Mostpie. Some
of the modern Moorish work is good ;
the pulpit is the mimhar of the orig-
inal mosque spoilt by French millinery.
The choir is ornamented with four
large gray marble columns on bases ol'
porphyry. There are some tolerable
stained - glass windows, and several
separate chapels. In that to the right
on entering is the white marble tomb
containing the bones of St. Geronimo.
His history and the account of his
martyrdom are given by Haedo, a
Spanish benedictine who published a
topography of Algeria in 1612. This
work was carefully studied by the late
M. Berbrugger, curator of the library,
who drew public attention to the story,
in the vague hope that the body might
one day be found. It is as follows :
During an expedition made by the
Spanish garrison of Orau in 1540, a
young Arab boy was taken prisoner and
baptized under the name of Geronimo.
When about eight years old he again
fell into the hands of his relations, with
whom he lived as a Mohammedan till
,S'cd. II
ALGIERS
i)'J
tlie age of twenty-five years, wlieii he
returned to Oran of his own accord,
with tlie intention of living thencefortli
in the religion of Christ. In May 15G9
he accomi)auied a Jtartj' of Spaniards
who embarked in a small boat to make
a razzia on the Arabs in the vicinitj'.
The expedition was chased by a Moorish
corsair, and all the members taken
prisoners and carried to Algiers. Every
effort was made to induce Geroninio to
renounce Christianity, but as he jier-
sisted iu remaining steadfa.st in tlie faith,
he was condemned to death, and sen-
tenced to be thrown alive into a mould
iu which a block of belon was about to
be made. His feet and lutiuh were
tied ivith coixls, the cruel sentence was
carried out, and the block of concrete
containing his body was built into an
angle of the fort, "des vingt (juatre
heures," then in course of construction.
Ilaedo carefully recorded the exact
spot, and added, "We hope that God's
grace may one day extricate Geronimo
from tiiis place, and reunite his body
with those of many other holy martyrs
of Christ, whose l)lood and hapjiy deaths
have consecrated this country."
In 1853 it was found necessary to
destroy this fort, and on the 27th of
December, in the very spot specified
by Haedo, the skeleton of Geronimo
was found enclosed in a block of bttuii.
The bones were carefully removed, and
interred with great pomp in the cathe-
dral. Liquid plaster of Paris was run
into the mould left by his body, and a
pirfect model of it obtained, showing
not only his features but the cords
whicli bound him, and even the texture
of his clothing. Tliis interesting cast
of the dead martyr may be seen in the
Government Library and Museum, Rue
dc I'Etat-Major.
N6tre - Dame - des ■ Victoires, T>ab-
el-Oncd, furnicrly a mos(|ue, built in
the 17th century by AH llitclienin, a
Christian slave converted to ilohani-
mcdanism.
Sainte - Croix, formerly the mosque
called Djannia el-Kasba Uerrani, stands
facing tiie Kasba in the street of the
same name.
St. Augustin. — A handsome church,
built in Ib7S, in the Rue de Constantine.
The Chiirch of the Jesuits, in the
Rue des Consuls.
The French Protestant Temple, in
the Rue de Chartres.
The Sjniagogue, in the Kuc Caton,
is a handsoiiir edifice iu the Moorish
style.
N6tre Dame d'Afrique. Sec post.
MOSQUES.
It is said that there were in Algiers
before the French conquest more than
a hundred mosques ; a great number
of which were, however, merely "koub-
bas " or tombs of "marabouts," or
Arab saints. These last generally con-
sist of a small isolated domed structure
containing the tomb, which is protected
by a wooden grating. These koubbas
are used as places of prayer, especially
in the country, where no real mosques
exist. They are sometimes incorrectly
given the name of marabouts by the
French. The word marabct really
means one who is bound or devoted to
religion, and ought to be applied to tlie
man and not to tlie tomb.
There are now but four mostjues regu-
larly used for Mohammedan worship
in Algiers. These are all accessible
to Europeans, but visitors ought to re-
move their shoes at the entrance, out
of deference to the feelings of those for
whose use they are intended, and who
prostrate themselves on tlie lloor during
prayer. The principal is
The Grand Mosque, or Djamiia el-
Kel)ir, in the Rue dc la Marine, the most
ancient in Algeria, said to have been
founded in the 11th century. An in-
srriptionontlie»n?Hirtrorpul[iit in Cufic
characters proves the fact <if the building
having existed in A. d. 1018, while a mar-
ble slal) in one of tlie walls records that
the minaret was built by Abou Taehfin,
king of Tlem(;en, in 1324. The interior
consists of a square whitewashed hall,
divided into aisles liy columns, united
by semicircular Moorisli arches. Tliesc
columns are wrapped round to a heiglit
100
ALGIERS
A bjeria
of 5 or 6 ft. with matting, which is
likewise spread over the Hoor. At one
t'Tid is the mihral), a nirlie in the wall,
wiiicli serves to indicate the direction in
wiiich Mecca lies. The general appear-
ance is liare, the only decoration being
tlie suspemlcd hmqis, and the iiumbar
or puli)it fur the hnam. One part of
the niosi[uo serves as a court of justice,
wliere ordinary cases are heard by the
Cadi. The exterior presents, towards
the Rue de la Marine, a row of white
marble columns supporting an arcade,
in the centre of which, before the en-
trance, stands a marble fountain. The
worshippers in this mosque are of the
Maleki rite, the only one represented
in Algiers jirior to the con(juest by
Aroudj.
The New Mosque Djainiia el-Djedid,
or Mos(jUL'e de la Pecherie, is situated
at the corner of the Rue de la Marine
and the Place du Gouveruement. It
was constructed, according to a very
doubtfnl tradition, in 1660, by a
Genoese architect, who was subse-
quently put to death by the Dey, in
consecjueuce of having built it in the
form of a Greek cross. It is sur-
mounted by a large white cupola, with
four smaller ones at the corners. The
interior is much like that before de-
scribed, bare and whitewashed, with
mats round the columns and on the
floor. There is, as in all other mostj^ues,
a fountain at the entrance, which the
Mohammedans use for their ablutions
before prayer. The square tower, or
minaret, is about 90 ft. high, and con-
tains an illuminated clock. This
mosque is used by the "Hanefi" sect.
It contains a magnificently illuminated
copy of the Koran, in folio.
The Djamaa Safir, in the Rue
Kkber, and the Djamaa Sidi Ramdan
in the street of that name, are so like
those already desci'ibed that it is
unnecessary to do more than mention
their names.
The Beni M'zab have a mosque for
themselves in the Rue de Tauger.
The Zaouia of Sidi Abd-er-Rahman
eth-Thalebi, overlooking the Jardin
ilarengo, is well worth a visit. It con-
tains the tomb of that saint, who died
in 1471 ; around him are buried several
Pachas and Deys, commencing with
that of Kkadar I'acha, a.d. IGOfj, and
terminating with that of Ahmed, last
Dey of Constantine. Lights are kejjt
constantly burning on the saint's tomb,
which is hung witii variously-coloured
silk drapery ; and offerings in the shape
of lamjjs, banners, ostrich eggs, etc.,
are sus[)ended from the roof. The pro-
portions and details of the minaret ami
doorway beneath it should Ije noticed.
After the Grand Mosque it is the most
ancient religious building in Algeria,
always of course excepting the tomb of
Sidi Ukha near Biskra, which dates from
the 7tli century.
There are many more of these
koubbas in Algiers, but they resemble
each other so much that a notice of
one will suffice.
RELIGIOUS AND OTHER CERE-
MONIES.
The fanatic religious performances of
the Aissaoui, or votaries of the religi-
ous confraternity of Sidi Mohammed
bin Aissa, occasionally take place in the
native quarter of the town, and indeed
can always be got up for a consideration.
{Commissionaires at the various hotels
in town know how to accomplish this. )
Tliese commence by the beating of
drums and tambours, after an interval
of which, one of the Aissaoui, being
inspired, rushes with a yell into the
ring formed by the spectators, and be-
gins a frantic dance, the body being
swayed backwards and forwanls, and
contorted with fearful violence. He is
soon joined by others, who continue
their maniacal gestures and cries until
they fall exhausted, or are stopped by
the Mokaddam (head of the order).
The next proceeding consists of forcing
out the eyes with iron spikes, searing
themselves with red-hot iron, eating
live scorpions and serpents, chewing
broken glass and the leaves of the
prickly pear, etc., all of which acts
seem to be performed under the influ-
ence of fanatical mania, the performers
being apparently insensible to pain.
The sight is well worth seeing oticc,
Serf. TI
ALOIKTtS
101
for tliose wlio liave tolerably strong,'
nerves, but lew persons would care
about witnessing an Aissaoui fete a
second time.
. Very curious sacrificial rites are
celebrated on the seashore near St.
Eugene every Wednesday morning at
sunrise, by some of the lower classes
of natives, the ()l)jcct of which is to cure
diseases, and to obtain various benefits.
To effect this, they slaughter a fowl or
lamb, after certain incantations and
burning of incense, and smear them-
selves with its blood, in which the
virtue is suitjiosed to reside. If the
dying 1)ird flutters in the water, it is
hailed as a good omen. Persons of
different races in Algiers take part
in these ceremonies, which must not,
however, be supposed to have any-
thing to do with the true Jlohammcdan
worsliip. It is a very ancient ceremony,
and was minutely described by Pere Dan
in the beginning of the 17th century,
who says, " Elles couppent la teste a
un coq, dont elles font (lecouler le sang
dans ce mesme feu, et en abandonncnt
la plume an vent apres I'avoir rompuc
en plusieurs pieces qu'elles sement de
tons costez et en jettcnt la meilleure
partie dans la mer."
The Negroes also perform sacrifices
in tlio Aral) town annually on the feast
of flic Projihet's birthday, the Moulld
cn-Xehhi, which occurs on the 12th of
the month Ituhia el-oivcl. They arc
curious, but di.sgusting.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS, INSTITU-
TIONS, ETC.
Four Aqueducts supply the city with
water. Tlii'V were erected in 16'22 by
Hussein Pacha, and are called the
aqueducts of Jlamma, of Tdcinli, of
A'in Zchoudja, and of Bir Trnriah.
A Barrack, formerly used by the
Janissaries, now serves the same purpose?
for French troops in the Rue de la
Marine. The barrack in the Ivasba was
fnrnirily till' palace of tlic Pacha. Tlu'
largest barrack is the t'cM'rue d'Orh'itns,
N. of the Kasba, which can contain an
entire regiment.
Baths. Sec Index.
The General Cemetery of Algiers
and St. Eugene is on the road to the
latter village, ojiposite the Fort des
Anglais. It is in the usual French
style, certainly not pleasing to English
eyes. A portion of it, corresponding
to the ancient consular cemetery under
the Turkish Oovernment, has been ap-
propriated for the use of the consular
corjts and their families, and no inter-
ment in it is permitted without the
sanction of the dean of that body, at
present the English Consul-Gencral.
A little farther is the New Cemetery
belonging to the Jevs, their ancient
one having been taken for public ]iur-
poses.
The Cemetery of the Commune of
Mustafa is on the top of the hill above
tlie Ciiamp de Mauccuvres ; access is
obtained either by Fontaine-bleue or liy
the Colonne Yoirol. A jiortion of this
has been appropriated for the use of the
English and American community, and
was consecrated bj' the Bishop of Gib-
raltar in 1871. It has been jdanted
with shrubs and flowers, and is care-
fully tended at the cost of the English
residents.
There are two Mohammedan Ceme-
teries, one at ilustafa (see Arab
Cemetery, p. 108), and the other near
the Kasba.
Champ de MancEuvres. See ji. 108.
The Club (Oflacers'), next to the
theatre, occui)ies part of the site of one
of the Janissaries' barracks. It con-
tains a monument of historic interest,
a Jloorish fountain, with twisted
columns, regarding which M. Feraud
tells the following anecdote : 'When
General de I'ourmonf left Toulon for
Algiers he took with him a number of
))rinted proclamations, announcing to
the Arabs that he came to deliver them
from the oppressive yoke of the Turks,
and to suppress ))iracy. Some one was
rei|uired to distribute tlie.se docnment.s,
and the interpreter, George Garone,
volunteered for the dangerous service,
lie was landed on the coast on the
night of the 13th June 1^:50, that be-
fore the debarkation of the French
army. He was arrested and taken be-
102
ALOIEKH
A hinria
foi-o thn Paclia at Algiers, wlio ordered
liis liead to be sawn ofT on the edge of
this fountain, which then decorated
the Court of the Kasha.
Club (English). Thcf^Yc^tcUsidendum
at Alt^iers lias always been some place
where English and Americans might
meet together, and enjoy something
like social life. Thanks to the public
spirit of a few of the principal residents,
a club of unusual excellence has been
(1889) cstalilished in the Villa de Royer
at Mustafa Superieur. It is situated in
beautiful grounds, with lawn - tennis
courts, and is abundantly supplied with
current literature. This is strongly re-
commended to all visitors. (See also
Index. )
Club Alpin, Section de I'Atlas, 2 Rue
Julia.
Educational Establishments. — The
superior course of instruction at Algiers
consists of a School of Law, with twelve
professors ; a School of Medicine, also
with twelve professors ; a School of
Science, with six ; and a School of
TiCtters, with seven professor.s, located
in a large and handsome college at the
Agha. Very interesting lectures are
given in the School of Letters on the
history, antiquities, geography, and
languages of N. Africa.
The Zoological Station is an adjunct
of this school, and is situated near the
admiralty. It is intended for serious
study, and not for popular amusement.
It has an aquarium, well- arranged
laboratories, a zoological library, and
all that is necessary for the study of
minute marine organisms of every de-
scription. The great feature, however,
is the apparatus for instantaneous
microscojiic photography by means of
electric light.
The Lycee, in the Place Bab-el-Oued,
receives both Europeans and natives.
The course of instruction is precisely
similar to that of all other Lycees in
France ; but the great objection to it
is the mixture of races amongst the
pupils, Christians, Jews, and Moham-
medans being all educated together.
There is a Petit Lyc^e for younger
children in the country at Ben Aknoun.
There are many other schools, both
Catholic and laic, in various parts of
the town and country. The best girls'
scliools are the convents of the Sacre
Ccjcur at Mustafa Superieur and of the
Doctrine Chretien ne in town.
Tlie modern Gates are the Passage de
CoHslantine, close by Fort Bah-Azoun ;
the Port d'Ishj, just above the former ;
the Porlc du Sahel, leading from the
upper town towards the W. ; and the
Porte Bah-cl-Oued, leading to St. Eugene
and Pointe Pescade,
The Hospital (Military), or Hdpital
du Dey, is situated outside the town at
a distance of a1)out a kilometre, in the
beautiful gardens which surround the
country residence of the last Dey. It
is well protected against the violent
N.W. winds of winter by the hill of
Bou-Zarea, and is open to the refresh-
ing sea-breezes so necessary in the
summer months. This magnificent
establishment is well worthy of a visit,
and the econome in charge jwill gladly
give the necessary permission on appli-
cation. It consists of numerous series
of buildings, spacious, lofty, and well
lighted, capable of containing 600 or
700 beds, or even more on an emer-
gency, fitted with every requisite that
the present advanced state of hygienic
science can devise ; baths of every
description, covered promenades fitted
as smoking galleries, with comfortable
seats, and decorated with tropical
plants ; separate lodgings in the Dey's
villa for officers, a chapel, and labora-
tories of various kinds. It would be
difficult to find in any part of Europe
a hospital better conducted, or fitted up
more carefully with everything likely
to restore the health or minister to the
comfort of the patients.
The Hospital (Civil) is at Mustafa
Inferieur, and can make up 450 beds.
It is visited by the best French doctors
in Algiers. The patients are attended
by Sisters of Charity, as well as by the
regular hospital nurses.
Jardin d'Essai. See post.
Library and Museum. — (Hours when
open, see Inde.x. ) This building, which
is the ancient palace of Mustafa
Pacha, is in the Rue de I'Etat-Major.
Sect. II
ALGIERS
103
The library contains 20,000 volumes
and pamphlets, and 700 Arab manu-
scrii)ts ; also a carious and useful col-
lection of maps and plans, most of
which refer to Algeria. The Jluseuni
is en the ground-iloor, and is open at
the same times as the Library. There
are a few j)ieces of ancient sculpture,
amongst others a torso of Venus, found
at Cherchell ; a statue of iS'eptune,
larg(!r than life-size ; a group of a Faun
and Hermaphrodite, similar to one
existing at Rome, and figured in Clarac,
Museedc Scidjilurc, PI. 671, No. 1736.
There are also two sarcophagi of the
early days of Christianity, discovered at
Dellys. One has sculptured representa-
tions of Daniel in the lions' den, and
Shadrach, Mcsliach, and Abed-nego in
the furnace. The second is much liner,
and contains representations of several
scenes in New Testament history, such
as the miracle of Cana in Galilee,
of the loaves and ti.shes, etc. Each
scene is placed between two Corinthian
twisted columns. There are also some
good fragments of mosaic work, includ-
ing a iiacchus, and a piece of inlaid
flooring. A ]ilaster cast of the jirint
left by the body of St. Geronimo in the
block of concrete is also to be seen (see
p. 98). There is also a collection of
medals and old Algerian money. Some
of the best sculptures and mosaics have
l)een removed to Paris. The ])resent
curator is the well-known Algerian
scholar, M. MacCarthy, whose courtesy
to the English visitor is proverbial.
Library (English). See Index.
Markets. Sec Index.
Tlir Palace of the Governor-General,
in tlie Place .Malakliolf, was formerly
the house of Hassan Pacha. The white
marble columns which form the ix^ri-
style are handsome ; .so are also the
j)illars of the saUc-a-muiujcr. The
drawing-room is decorated in a very
ornate Moorish style.
Tile Palace of the Dey, now summer
]ialae(^ of Governor-General at Mustafa
Superieur.
Shops and Bazaars. — The best shops
for iMiidpi'an goods are in the Pues
Pab-el-Oued, I5ab-Azouu, ile la Lyre,
antl de Chartres, They arc usually
good, and hardly dearer than in France.
Meat is excellent, and about the same
jirice as in England. Game is abund-
ant and very good. Vegetables, fruit,
and llowcrs are cheap, and most excel-
lent. Every sort of clothing can l)e
bought of good (juality and at reason-
able prices in the streets above named.
Photographs are good.
The bazaars wiiere the best articles
of Arab and Moorish manufacture can
be ol)tained aie in the Pa.ssagcs lead-
ing from the Place du Gouvernement to
the Rue de Chartres, and in the Rue
de la Lycee.
Of the many establishments devoted
to the sale or manufacture of what are
called ohjds arabcs, none is more worthy
of a visit than that of Madame Bena-
ben, grand -daughter and successor of
Madame Luce, in the Hue liruce, nearly
opposite the Cathedral. Tiie latter
lady devoted her whole life to two
most laudable objects — the perpetuation
of the exipiisite embroidery for which
-Algiers has always been famous, and
which, but for her, would now have
become an extinct art ; and the en-
deavour to teach Arab women to gain
their livelihood in an honest manner.
In their youth they are taught to work
at the establishment, and when they
marry and settle in life they continue
to work at home, and bring tlie jiro-
duc(^ of their industry there for sale.
Such thoroughly good " woman's
work" is worthy of the highest praise
and encouragement. Another person
who has had the merit of perpetuating
an art wliich had almost become ex-
tinct is M. Marlier in tlie Rue Jenina.
He makes most lieantiful trays and
other objects in bra.ss, ami has a true
feeling for Moorish art.
Tlie traveller must beware, if he be
dealing with Moors, and Jews espe-
cially, of giving the sum first n.sked ;
these always put on an increa.sed price
in the expectation of being beaten <b)\vn.
For further particulars see Index.
Theatres. See Index.
THE HARBOUR.
The Inner Harbour of Algiers, orig-
inally made by Kheir-ed-din in IJilS,
104
ALGIERS
Algeria
consisted of a mole coiincctinf; tlie
town with the rocks on wliicli the
lif(lithouse now staniLs, but on wliich
Fort Pcuon stood formerly. The Liijhl-
hoiisc is octagonal in form, and was
built in 1544 by Hassan Pacha, on the
old Spanish basement. The summit
of the tower is aliout 120 ft. above the
sea-level, with a fixed light, and can be
seen for 15 m.
In the Bureau de la ifarine (formerly
a Turkish prison), on the N.E. side of
the harboui-, is a picturesque doorway,
ornamented with marble inlaid with
colour of the 17th century.
The present harbour, commenced in
1836, is formed by continuing this
mole towards the S.E. A similar mole
beginning near the Fort Bab-Azoun
runs E. for some distance, and then,
turning N". , terminates within about
350 yards of the preceding, the entrance
to the harbour being between the two.
At each extremity stands a fort. These
breakwaters are interesting as being the
first experiment tried of constructing
such works with blocks of concrete.
Tlie harbour has an area of 90 hectares
('222 acres), and an average depth of
about 40 ft.
Two docks have been constructed,
capable of containing the largest
vessels.
There are two basins for discharging
ships near the centre of the quays, which
extend along the edge of the harbour
for a distance of about 700 yards ; the
arches under the Boulevard de la Re-
publique are used for warehouses and
various other purposes.
In excavating for the present streets
in the marine quarter, the foundations
of the ancient town of Icosium were
laid bare. A Roman street existed
where the Rue de la I\Iarine now lies ;
and two Roman cemeteries were dis-
covered near the Rues Bab-el-Oued and
]jab-Azoun. Icosium was probably not
a large town, and all traces of it have
now disappeared.
FORTIFICATIONS.
Of the ancient fortifications of Al-
giers, the chief are : —
The Kasba, oi' Citadel, situated on
the highest ))oint of the city, was com-
menced by Aroudj in 1516 on the .site
of an older building, and its Jiistory
was the history of Algiers down to the
con([uest, at which period it was still
the palace of the Deys, and was de-
fended by 200 pieces of artillery. Here
it was that the last Dey gave the now
historical blow with liis fan to the
French Con.sul, which cost him his
dominions. It was much injured by
the French after the siege, a road
having been cut right through the
centre, the mosque turned into a bar-
rack, and the rest of the building ap-
propriated to military purposes. The
enormous treasure found here was
stored in vaults, traces of which are yet
to be seen, and the ancient door lined
with sheet-iron still exists, above which
is a wooden gallery where the beacon
and banner were displayed. There is
also a minaret, and some marble
columns and arches, which belonged to
the ancient building. But the histor-
ical pavilion where the coirp d'eventail
was given has been allowed to fall into
decay, and the m\i11s have everywhere
been despoiled of their beautiful tiles
by the military engineers.
The Fort de rEmpereur, so called
from being built on the spot where
Charles V. pitched his camp during
his disastrous attack on Algiers, after
his retreat. It was constructed in 1545
by Hassan Pacha, the son and successor
of Kheir-ed-din, and for a long time it
bore his name. It is situated above
the Kasba and without the town, the
whole of which it commands. It was
here that General de Bourmont received
the capitulation of the Dey of Algiers.
It was blown up by the French when
they took Algiers, and is now used as a
prison for officers.
The Fort des Anglais, which was
built in 1825, as a protection against
future bombardments by the English ;
the Fort de I'Eau, IS kil. from Algiers,
between that place and Matifou. There
is a fort erected on Cape Matifou, and
another on the Poiute Pescade. At the
end of the Boulevard de la Republique
Sect. II
EXCURSIONS TN THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS
105
stands the Fort Bab-Azoun, now con-
nected with tlie line of works ; it was
built by Hussein Pacha in ISol ; and
on one side of the Place Bab-cl-()ued
is the Fort Neuf, both now used as
military jirisons. In 1540 a wall was
built by the same Pacha, which was in
some places of great thickness. It was
surmounted by battlements, and itierced
with loopholes, and extended from the
Kasba to the Fort Xeuf on one side,
and to the Rue de la Lyre on the other.
This has been almost entirely destroyed
to make room for modern improve-
ments.
Modem Defensive Works. — The
French line of works, consisting of a
rampart, parapet, and ditch, strength-
ened by bastions, commences above the
Kasba in the (piarter of the Tagarins,
and stretches to the sea on either side,
terminating in the Place Bab-el-Oued
to the N. ; and in the Fort Bab-Azoun,
towards the S.
The improved means of attack of late
have rendered these fortifications com-
])iii-atively useless, and, doulitless, their
demolition is merely a question of time.
They occupy a space of 180 acres, and
cost originally about 8,000,000 f. The
peninsula of the admiralty is also
strongly fortified.
Important isolated works have been
con.structed on the heights of Bou-Zarea,
in the Valee des Consuls, above the Jar-
din d'Kssai, and on the heights above
the English Church to the S. of the
town. These are all armed with im-
proved modern artillery.
MUSTAFA SUPERIEUR.
Persons wlio intend spending more
tlian one or two nights in Algiers are
recommended to stop at one of the
hotels (see Algiers, in Index) at Mus-
tafa Sup6rieur, which is within easy
ai'i'css ("2 m.) of the town by omnibus
every half-hour, or by carriage (3 f.)
Mustafa Superieur is well situated on
the slojjcs of the hills S. of Algiers
amongst gardens and pine woods, and
commands extensive views ; and being
at a considerable elevation above the
.sea, it has the great advantage of being
fresher and more healthy than the town.
This neighbourhood, with the ailjoin-
ing ]ilateau of El-Biar (:300 ft. above
the sea), is the favourite residence of
winter visitors to Algiers. Besides the
best hotels there are here numerous
Moori.sh and French villas in beautiful
gardens, with magnificent views of sea
anil land. It is hardly possible to find
a more delightful residence in any part
of the Mediterranean.
Hotels, Engli-sh Club, Omnibuses,
etc., see Index.
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS
OF ALGIERS.
1. El-Biar and Bou-Zarea.
2. Colonne Voirol, Biruiandrais, Ravine of
Feinnie Salivate and Jardin d'Essai.
3. La Trappe, Sidi Ferucli, Guyotville, Pointe
Peseade.
4. Notre Dame d'Afriquc, and Valley of
Consuls.
5. Maison Carrie.
0. Fondiik and Barrase of Kliainis.
7. Cape Malifou and RiisRunia.
8. Gorge of Issei-s, Palaostro, and Dni el-
Mi zan.
'.t. Blidah and Gorge of Chiffa.
10. Hanunani Rir'ha.
11. Milianah.
12. Fort National.
13. Tcniet el-AIid (Cedar Forest).
14. Cherchel and Tombeau do la Chretienne.
(1.) To El-Biar and Bou-Zarea.—
The traveller may either asrend l>y the
Mustafa road, passing the iJovernor-
General's palace, and turning to the
right at the Colonne Voirol, or he may
follow the Tournant Kovigo, jtass the
Kaslia, and the reservoirs for supplying
the upi>er part of the town with water,
and leave Algiers by the Porte ud
Sahel. "We shall assume that he takes
the latter route. There are several
omnibuses daily to El-Biar and Bou-
Zarea, but it is "best to take a carriage,
fare 7 f.
3kil. FuiiT i.'H.MiM-.ui-.VK. Seei>. 104.
[4 kil. A bridle path to the right
leads down the Fkais Vai.lon, a
pictures(|ue and sliady ravine, in which
arc situated thcniineral springs of.tiuuii
ion
EXCURSrONS IN TIW. lONVIRONS OF ALGIICRS
Algeria
Srakiia, reputed to lio of coii.sidcrahli'
incdiciniil value. Tlic path ends at
the Cite Ikif^eaud, tlie faubour'' of Bab-
cd-Oued.]
5 kil. El-Biar (Ar. The Wdh). A
long straggling village lying for some
distance along the road. The com-
nninc extends as far S. as the Colonne
A'oirol, and is the most charming and
healthful part of the environs of Algiers.
It contains inany of the best villas
occupied by English residents during
the winter season, amongst others
that of Sir Lambert Playfair, H.M.
Consul-General ; the Cliateau d'llydra
(Mr. E. Ledgard), and the beautiful
house and grounds of Mr. Macleay.
There are also several convents ; one
to the W. of the village is that of the
Bon Pasteur, a reformatory and refuge
for women, as well as an asylum for
children. Nearer the Colonne is an
oriihanage for girls, belonging to the
Sisters of St. Vincent de Paul ; still
farther on, another belonging to the
same sisterhood for boys ; and between
the two the head establishment of the
Frercs de la Doctr'ine Chritienne, who
have primary schools for boys all over
the colony.
A large house just outside the vil-
lage on the left (Maison Couput) is
that in which Marechal de Bourmont
established his headquarters, and where
the final surrender of Algiers was
agreed to, through the mediation of
Mr. St. John, tlie British Consul-
General. ^
6 kil. Chdtcaii Neuf, a wayside
auherge. Here the road bifurcates ;
the lower branch leads to Ben Ahnoun
(8 kil.), once a Jesuit orphanage, now
the Petit Lycee, for a younger cLiss of
boys than those received in town.
Here also are the springs of Ain Ze-
houdja, whence the upper part of
Algiers is supplied with water ; and
Deli Ihrahim (11 kil.), where is a Pro-
testant orphanage. The upper branch
leads to Cheragas (12 kil.)
7 kil. Erom the latter of these
branches the Chemin Vicinal de la
Bou-Zarea turns sharp off to the right.
1 See " Scourge of CliristeiKloiii," i>. 310.
About halfway to the village is a vast
building, erected for a lunatic a.sylum,
now occupied as an licole Nm-mal.
9 kil. Bou-Zarea, a small Eurojiean
village situated on a mountain of the
same name 1150 ft. above the sea. Tlie
native village is about 1 kil. fartiier
on to the left. It contains several
koubbas, notably tiiat of Skli Nad'man,
situated in enclosures of prickly pear,
amongst which are dwarf palms of such
unusual height as entirely to belie their
name. The summit of tlie hill is occu-
pied by a cemetery, whence a glorious
jianoramic view is obtained of the
country in every direction.
[From this point a road, rather
rough, but practicable for light car-
riages, leads to Gi:yotvili.e, 9 kil.
farther on. About half way, to the N.
of the road, is the forest of A'in-Bclnan
(see p. 109), whence the high road to
Algiers may be reached near Cape
Caxine, at a point distant 11 kil. from
the city.]
The traveller should return by a
lonely tortuous road leading to the fau-
bourg of Bab-el-Oued. After passing
the village, to the E., the road bifur-
cates ; the upper branch conducts to
the Observatory, 1700 metres from the
village, built in an open space of about
12 acres in extent, 350 metres above
the level of the sea, where once stood
a Turkish fort. Probably no observa-
tory in the world is more favourably
situated, while the buildings and instru-
ments are worthy of it and of France.
One of the instruments is of historical
interest ; it is a I'eflecting telescope con-
structed by thecelebrated Leon Foucault
with his own hand. The Director, M.
Trepied, is most courteous to visitors.
The lower branch leads to the town ;
about a third of the way down is the
Hospice dcs Vieillards, kept by the
Petitcs Sceurs dcs Pauvrcs, an excellent
charity, well worthy of a visit. About
100 old men and women find an asylum
here, and as it is entirely supported
by voluntary contributions, donations,
either in money or old clothing, are
gratefully received.
S,rt. II
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ALGIERS
10';
(2. ) To the Colonne Voirol, Birmand-
raiB, Ravine of tliu Femme Sauvage,
ami back by the Jardin d'Essai (tj f. )
Tlie road leaves the town by the
I'oite d'lsly, and passes through the
district of Mustafa Supericur.
4 kil. The summer Palace of the
Go vcrnor- General.
5A kil. Tlie Colonne Voirol. A small
village named from tlie cohimn which
records tlie construction of the road bj-
General Baron Voirol. He was the last
of tlie commandants en chef of the army
of Africa, and it was under his admin-
istration in 1833 tiiat France finally
determined to retain pos.session of Al-
geria.
[A road to the right leads to El-Biar.
There are numerous beautiful walks in
the neighbourhood.]
8 kil. Birmandrais, a pretty little
village in a wcll-\vo(jdcd hollow. The
proper orthography is Bir Monrad Jiais,
"well of Mourad the captain," a cele-
brated renegade Flemish corsair.
[3 kil. farther, on the high road, is
the village of Birkhadem, "the well
of the slave," so called IVoin a pictur-
esque Moorish fountain in tlie market-
place. In the fort above the village is
a military penal establishment, and
there is an interesting female orphan-
age for girls on the cro-ss road leading
lience to Kouliba.
Instead of driving down the valley
of the Femme Sauvage, the traveller
may vary the excursion by returning
from Birmandrais through Koubba and
the Ruisseau. There is a lovely shady
road which passes through Vicu.i-
Koubba, 3 kil. from Birmandrais ; 2
kil. farther on is the new village of
Koubba, the principal feature of which
is the Svininaire or Ecclesiastical Col-
lege, containing two liranches, one for
about 30 boys, and the other for an
equal number of older students, who
are usually deacons or sub -deacons.
In the centre of the building is the
church, the immense dome of which is
one of the most promiuent objects in
the landscape seen from Algiers and
Mustafa. The place owes its name to
a small Mohammedan koubba or tomb,
situated in the garden, now converted
into a chapel. The grounds are very
extensive, and chiefly laid out in vines.
On the north side there is a fine Chcmin
de la Croix, with chapels, grottoes and
sculptured skitions. In the village is a
statue to one of the finest of the old
type of Algerian soldiers, General Mar-
giieritte, killed at Sedan. It is the
work of Albert Lefeuvre.]
At Birmandrais, close to the church,
the road to the Ruisseau branches nlf
to the left, through the beautifully
wooded valley of the Femme Sauvage,
so named after a young lady, liy no
means shy, who kept a cafe restaurant
in this ravine shortly after the Frendi
conquest. It joins the high road l)e-
low at the 6th kilometre from Algiei-s.
Turning now to the W., we reacli
the Jardin d'Essai, a garden of about
200 lieitares in extent. This was com-
menced in 1832, aii<l while it remained
in the hands of Government it was kept
U]) with great care, but at a great ex-
pense ; now it is in the hands of the
Coinpaynic Gineralc AhjiJricnnc, and
the commercial element is more con-
sidered than the advancement of science.
Still it is a delightful jiromenade, and
it contains a most interesting collection
of plants, both in the o])en air ami in
greenhouses. Ornamental plants are
cultivated in great numbei-s and ex-
ported to the principal cities of Eurojie.
The avenues of planes, palms, bam-
boos, and magnolias are especially
worthy of notice.
On the ojiposite side of tlie road, on
the slope of the hill, is another and
most attractive portion of the same
garden, principally devoted to Austral-
ian plants, such as eucalyj)tus, arau-
carias, acacias, etc., the whole crowncil
by a lieautiful wood of Canary jiines.
There is a fine old Moorish house in it.
The gardens are open to the jmblic ;
and at the Cafe des Plntaius, just by
tlie cut ranee, coffee and other refresh-
ments may be olitaiiied.
It was hero that the Emjieror
Charles V. commencc<l '_ on the 23d
0( toiler iri41 to disemliark his army
of 21,000 men, the f/iV^n'-yof whicli wen-
10«
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF AI/!IERS
Algeria
rc-(aiil)ai'l<c(l nil l)oaiil sncli of liis vessels
as escaped tlic teiiijtest eiglit days later
at Cape Matifnii. In tlie Proprieto
Sahatery close hy is a grotto in which
Cervantes and his companions are sup-
posed to have resided for some time.
Here it n)ay be well to give some
account of the com]iany to which this
garden has been let for a nominal
rent of 1000 f. a year. A conven-
tion Avas jiassed between the Societe
Gin6rale Al<j67'ienne and the Imperial
Government in 1865, stijnilating that
it was to have a capital of 100 millions
of francs, to be devoted exclusively to
industrial and agricultural works, the
exploitation of mines and forests, the
erection of barrages and irrigation al
canals, the establishment of manufac-
tories, etc. It was to lend a further
sum of 100 millions of francs to the
State, to be applied in similar works of
public utility, and the Government
made over to the company 100,000
hectares (250,000 acres) of the best
land in the colony at a nominal rent
of 1 f. per hectare per annum dur-
ing 50 years. The company totally
failed in all these conditions ; it con-
fined itself to financial operations,
mostly out of Algeria, and met with
serious losses. In 1878 it Vas liqui-
dated, and a new society called the
Compagnie Genei-ale Algerienne took its
place, with no more change than is
expressed by its title.
On the S. of the road farther on
(4^ kil. from Algiers) is an Arab
Cemetery, in which is the small Kouhha
of Sid) Mohammed ben Ahd-er-Rahman
hou Koberain, "the man with two
tombs." It was he who founded the
religions confraternity which bears his
name, and to which a vast number
both of Kabyles and Arabs are affiliated.
After having made a vo3'age to Egypt,
he inhabited Algiers under Baba Mo-
hammed Pacha, and subsequently died
in Kabylia, in the country of the Beni
Ismail, a branch of the Guechtoula, of
which he was a native, and there a
tomb was raised over his remains. The
Algerians caused the body to be carried
ofl' and interred where it now lies, and
the excitement caused ])y the act was
only appeased l.iy giving out that the
brtdy of the saint had been miraculou.sly
doubled, and rested in both tomb.s.
Gieat numbers of Moorish women vi.sit
this cemeterj' every Friilay aftornoon.
Farther on, to the N. of the road, is
the Champ de Manoeuvres, used as a
racecourse and exercising giound for
troops. It is large enough to allow
25,000 men to be reviewed at once.
Here commences Mustafa Inferieur, on
the lower .slope of the hill on which
Mustafa Superieur is situated. Beyond
this is the Agha, containing manufac-
tories and workshoj)S, cart and carriage
factories, corn and saw- mills, gas-
works, etc., and the female jirison in
the buildings of the old Lazaretto.
(3.) To La Trappe, Sidi Feruch,
Guyotville, and Pointe Pescade (20 f.)
Drive by El-Biar to Chateau Xeuf,
as in excursion (1) ; 6 kil.
12 kil. Cheragas, situated at the
entrance to the plain of Staoueli. The
country round is very fertile, and there
are several distilleries here for making
essence of geranium and other scents.
17 kil. La Trappe de Staoueli.
The Trappists obtaine<l leave from the
Government in 184-3 to build a monas-
tery, and were granted about 2500 acres
of the surrounding land, which was
then almost a wilderness, but which
has been transformed by their exertions
and industry into a fertile country,
producing vines, oranges, fruit-trees,
and all species of cereals and vegetables.
There are two corn-mills, the water for
driving w^hich is brought by an aque-
duct 30 ft. in height.
The monastery itself is a rectangular
building, containing a courtyard sur-
rounded by cloisters, and a chapel
which occupies one wing of the build-
ing. The walls are covered with in-
scriptions calling to mind the miseries
of life, among which may be seen the
following: "S'il est triste de vivre a
la Trappe, qu'il est doux d'y mourir. "
To the left is the farm, containing the
stables and sheds for the large Hocks
and herds of the establishment, and to
the right are the various workshops,
the forge, bakehouse, wheelwTights' and
carpentei-s' slio])s, wine vaults, dairy,
etc. The cemetery is close at hand.
Sect. II
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS
109
Facing the monastery, in the midst of
a chimp of iiahu-trees springing from a
single root, stands a statue of the Virgin,
Ndtrc Dame dc Utaoucli. Tiie monas-
tery is huilt on the s]>ot where the
liattle of Staonl'l was fought between the
French and Turks on 19th June 1830.
The number of monks is about 100.
The small town of Staoucli is IJ m.
N. of La Trappe.
2') kil. Sidi Feruch, more correctly
Sidi-Fiirnii/J. celebrated as the land-
ing-place of the Freneli anny on 14tli
June 1839, is an elevated jieninsula,
stretching 1000 yards into the sea, on
the top of which stood a round tower
built by the Spaniards, and called
Torre Ckica.
Here was the koiibba of the saint,
regarding whom the following legcntl
is told: "A .Si)anish captain coming
one day to the spot found the lioly
man asleep, and carried him on board
his vessel to sell him in Spain, but
notwithstanding that the wind was
favourable and iillcd his sails, the ship
remained immovalde. The Christian
understooil that this was a miracle,
and ever afterwards remained the
devoted friend and ibllower of Sidi-
Furrudj. Both friends were buried in
the same grave."
In 1847 the remains of the two
friends were disinterred, and reverently
buried by the French authorities in
the cemetery of Sidi ilohammed at the
Oued Aggar at Staoneli.
The small village was founded in
1844, and for some time was an import-
ant place for the sardine tisheries, but
was afterwards nearly abandoned. The
new barrack, capable of accommodating
2000 men, is a substantial buihling
in tiie fort. The principal entrance is
ornamented with sculptured trophies
of peace and war. On the marble slab
is the following inscription : —
Ici
Le 14 JciN 1830,
Par l'oudke du Roi Chaulks X,
Sous LE COMMANDKMENT 1>U OfeNfeUAL DE
BOCRMONT,
L'AUMfcE FRANIj'AISE
Vint ariioukk ses drai-eaux,
IIeNURK la LiUEUTt AUX MKRS,
DOXNER L'ALOfcRIE k. LA FraNCK.
Here was fouml a chapel in memory
of St. Januarius with the inscrii)-
tion : —
hk; est janvari
i et killii ejvs memoi;ia,
qvi vixit asms xlvii mensibvh v
disces.sit in pace vi . . . anno i'rovisc.
CCCCX.
Return liy the sea coast, passing
Guyotville, 15 kil. from Algiers. This
village is named after Comte de (hiyot,
director of the Interior from 1840 to
1846, built in 1845 on the site of an
Arab village, Ain-Beinan. It is one
of the most prosperous villages in
the vicinity of Algiers. Just beyond
it on the sea - shore are some curious
Roman (luarries. Turning off here to
the left, the road to Cheragas crosses
an undulating and partly uncleared
country. About lialf way, and a little
more than a mile to the W., in the
Oued 13eiii Messous, are about a dozen
megalithic monuments still entire, and
a considerable number in a less per-
fect state of preservation. These con-
sist of dolmens — large tabular stones,
supported on four upright ones. Several
interesting objects have been found in
those that have been opcueil, such as
bones, pottery, bronze ornaments, etc.,
which may be seen at the rooms of the
Soeiete de Climatologie, Rue Bruce.
Cape Caxine, 12 kil. from Algiers.
On the summit is a lighthouse, with a
revolving light of the lii-st order, visible
at a distance of 24 m.
At 10^ kil. from Algiers, to the S.
of the road, is a charming forest of
Aln-Beinan, about 100 hectares in
extent, jilanted by the Department of
Forests in 1867-70; it consists of
Aleppo pines, eucalyptus of various
species, casuarina.s, cork oak, Austral-
ian acacias, and other trees. It is full
of beautiful views, and is a favourite
place for picnics. At the Maisua
Forcsliire is a spring of good water.
There is a rough road, practicable for
light carriages, from this place to Bou-
Zarea.
At 6 kil. from Algiers is Pointe
Pescade or Mcrsa-cd-Dcbban, a reef of
rocks running out into the sea, on
which stands the ruins of the fort of
the .same name, built in 1671 l>y El-
Hadj Ali Agha, and restored in 1724
no
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS
Algeria
and 1732. JJehiiid it are llic ruins of
another fort, now utilised as a custoin-
lioiisc station, said to have been the
residence of Baba Aroudj {Barhnroasfi).
Tliere is an cxcelK'nt restaurant here,
at wliieh lish ilinners and Incakfasts
can be obtained.
At 3 kil. from Algiers is St. Eugene,
a village principally occupied by Jews ;
it is rarely used by winter visitors, as
the situation is less healthy than Mus-
tafa Superieur, and there are scarcely
any walks save along a crowded and
dusty i)ublic road.
2i kil. from Algiers is the general
temetcry, and then follows the Cite
Bugeaud, or faubourg of Bab-el-Oued.
Omnibuses run every few minutes
from the Place du Gouvernement to St.
Eugene, and even farther.
(4.) To Notre Dame d'Afrique and
the Valley of Consuls. (4.50 f. to the
church. )
A rather steep drive from the gate of
Bab-el-Oued, passing behind the Mili-
tary Hospital, leads to Notre Dame
d'Afrique, conspicuously placed on a
shoulder of Mount Bou-Zarea, having
a magnificent view of the city and the
sea. It is built in the Romano-Byzan-
tine style of architecture, and has by
no means an un pleasing effect. The
walls of the interior are covered with
votive offerings of all kinds, amongst
which those of sailors predominate ;
indeed, this class of the community
has made the church particularly its
own. Above the altar is a Black Virgin,
and around the apse the inscription,
"Notre Dame d'Afrique priez pour
nous et pour les Musslemans."
Every Sunday a ceremony is per-
formed which has no parallel perhaps in
any other church in the world. About
3^ P.M., after vespers, the clergy chant
the prayers for the dead, and go in })ro-
cession to the point overhanging the sea,
where before a catafalque the officiating
priests perform all the ceremonies over
this vast grave, which the church ap-
points for ordinary funerals.
There is a curious statue of the
Archangel Michael in this church,
made of solid silver, valued at about
£4000 ; it belongs to the confraternity
of Neapolitan fishermen, and is en-
closed witiiin a rail of gilt ii'on at the
W. end of the church.
lieyond Notre Dame d'Afrique i.s the
VaUc dcH Conmch, so calle<l from having
been the favourite residence of those
functionaries during the time of the
Deys. The farthest off house on the
road was the British Consulate, figured
in Mrs. Broughton's book. Half way
between this and the church, on the
N. side of the road, is the Pctifx Strni-
iiairc and Cardinal Lavigerie's country
residence, on the site of the old French
Consulate. Op})osite to it, on the S.
side of the road, is the old American,
and a little higher up the Sardinian
Consulate. The drive here is exceed-
ingly lieautiful ; and as it has been
very little changed, it gives a good
idea of what the environs of Algiers
were like during the time of the Deys.
From the Seminaire a footpath leads to
Bou-Zarea.
(5.) To Maison Carree by the lower
road, N. of the Jardin d'Essai.
2 kil. Mustafa Inferieur.
4 kil. The Abattoir, to the S. of road.
5 kil. Jardin tVEssai.
5 J kil. Village of Hussein Bey.
6 kil. Artillery Polygon, or practice
ground,
11 kil. Maison Carrie. The old
Turkish fort on the top of the hill,
from which this village derives its
name, and which is now used' as a
native prison, was built in 1721 by the
Dey Mohammed Effendi, to prevent the
lauding of an enemy at the Harrach.
It was rebuilt by Yehia Agha on a
greater scale in 1826, to serve as a
starting-point for the various excursions
made hy the Turks in the interior.
Near the village is the Convent of
the "White Fathers, a missionary order
established by Cardinal La\igerie for
the conversion of the remote regions of
Central Africa. They wear the Arab
costume, learn the Arabic language, and
accustom themselves to live entirely
like natives. An attempt to send them
through the Sahara signally failed,
they were assassinated on their way,
and they have since been sent into the
interior of the continent from Zanzibar.
Sect. II
EXCURSIONS IN THK ENVIHONS OF ALGIERS
111
Tiiey liave created an important agri-
cultural establishment here, and are
especially celebrated for the cultiva-
tion of Amines.
In connection with this estaldish-
nient are orphanages both here and
at St. Charles, bet\s-een Koubba and
Birkhadeni.
(6.) To Fonduk and the Barrage of
the Ehamis.
Onniibust's run twice a day to Fonduk
(32 kil., l.oO f.) ; but the best means
of doing the excursion is to take the
earliest train in the morning to Maisoii
Blanche ; the omnibus from Algiers
arrives a few minutes later, and the
traveller can continue in it to Fonduk.
He can obtain a carriage at the Hotel
Gessin to visit the barrage (5 f. ), and
return in time ibr the omnibus which
leaves for Algiers at 2^ J'.m., arriving
at 6 I'.M.
Fonduk is not a particularly prosper-
ous village, but it hopes to improve its
condition when the barrage is Jinislied.
It owes its name to an Arab caravan-
serail wliieli existed on tlie sfwi. About
1 kil. to tlie S.E. are tlie ruins of a large
fort built in tiie lirst year of the French
occui)ation. The village is picturesijuely
situated on the left liank of the river
Khamis, at the foot of the first slope of
the Atlas.
About 7 kil. farthcrup a dam or bar-
rage has been built at a cost of 2 millions
of francs. It has a height, equal to the
breadth of its base, of 35 metres ; tlie
foundations are 6 metres deep, and re-
pose on an impermeable stratum ; tlie
construction is of solid rubble, built witli
hydraulic cement ; the wall exteriorly
rises in a curve, and has a widtli at tlie
to]) of 4.75 metres ; the total lengtli is
165 metres. Tiiis dyke will contain
an immense body of water, covering an
area of 100 hectares, and with a depth
of 35 metres at the barrage. But it is
in a deplorable condition of neglect.
Althougii commenced in 1869, it is far
from being linished ; the sluice -gales
have not been erected, the canals for
irrigation arc not made, and the over-
llow on the right bank of the river lias
not been arranged. Tliis indeed ap-
pears to be the weak jioint of the work.
Tiie rock liere is so frial)le that it is by
no means improbable that an unusual
fall of rain may result in the wliole
structure being earned away, as in the
case of Perrigaux and St. Denis du Sig.
Perhaps this may exi)lain the other-
wise unaccountable delay in utilising
what has caused sueli an immense ex-
jienditurc. The barrage, however, is
well worth a visit, as it is the oidy
important irrigational work in the pro-
vince of Algiers.
In the mountain oi Bmi-Zigut (1032
metres), near Fonduk, are some gorges
which would repay exjiloration. There
is a bridle path from Fonduk, i)a.ssing
this mountain, and terminating at
Palaestro.
4 kil. E. of Fonduk is the thriving
\\\\-A(^c oi ArlatLuli, founded in 1878.
(7.) To Cape Matifou and the Ruins
of Rusgunia.
This may be done, if desired, by
jiublic conveyance, as omnibuses per-
form the journey twice daily in three
hours.
18 kil. Le Fort dc VEau, built in
1581, by Djafar Pacha. It owes its
name to a famous well of water within
the walls. The villnge close to the
Fort was founded in 1850, chietly by
the Mahonnais, natives of Minorca.
The land was then densely covered
with brushwood ; five years later it was
thoroughly cleared, and now numerous
Norias, each one irrigating six acres
of laiul, have converted it into a pro-
ductive market-garden, yielding easily
an annual out-turn of £30 an acre.
20 kil. La llassanta. In 1830 a
Polish General, tlie Prince de Mir,
obtained from the Oovernment tin-
grant of a large tract of land mar tiiis
jilaee, for the purpose of trying some
exi)eiiinents in agiiculture, which, how-
ever, were not successfuL
24 kil. L'Oncd Khamh, where there
is a small battery.
26 kil. 7iM.sv/(/H(V< ruins. Tiiis Roman
city occupied in ancient times a cir-
cular area of great extent ; and the
mosaics, medals, columns, etc., wliiih
have been found .scattered around
seem lo indicate tliat Uusgnnia was an
iin[)ortant colony. Tlio dCliris of tliis
112
EXCUK,S10N« IN THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS
AUjeria,
city was cxlciisivi'ly iiscil as Imildiiig
iiKiLi'iial for Alf^icrs.
Tilt! rollowiiig iiiscriiitiou on a stone
IVoiu these ruins, wliicli is now built into
tlie i-oof of a vault, used as a wine store,
by the Intendance Militairc, almost
below the statue of the Due d'Orleans,
proves the identity of llusgunia : —
L. TADIO L. FIL. QUIR.
ROGATO
DEC. AED. IIVIR IIVIB
q,. Q. RUSO ET RUSO.
CONSISTENTES OB
MKRITA QUOD FRU-
MENTUM INTOLERIT
ET ANNONAM PAS
SV . . . . CIT INCRESCERE
AERE COLLATO.
"To Lucius Tadius, son of Lucius
Quirinus, called Rogatus, the Decii-
rions, iEdiles, Duumvirs, and the quin-
(juennial Duumvirs of Rusgunia, and
the inhabitants of Rusgunia, on ac-
count of his merit in fui'nishing corn,
and contributing to the public stores.
By sub.scriptiou."
27 kih Matifoio, a small hamlet
founded in 1853, on a promontory
known to the natives as Temendafoust.
The ruined fort was built by Ramdau
Aglia in 1661, when Ismail was Pacha ;
and from it was fired the salute on the
arrival of a new Pacha of Algiers. A
short distance off is a fountain called in
Arabic " Ishrub tva harab," signifying
"Drink an<l go away." The caution
was given because of the prevalence of
fever, which seldom spared those who
slept near by. It was at Matifou that
the Emperor Charles V. re-embarked
after his disastrous expedition against
Algiers in 1511.
Near the end of the Cape is the
Lazaretto built on the api»earance of
cholera at Toulon and Marseilles in
1884.
(8.) To the Gorge of the Issers, Pal-
aestro, an<l Dra el-Mizan. Tiaii; in 'i^
hrs. to Palaestro ; fair accommodation
(Rte. 8).
(9.) To Blidah and the Gorge of
the Chiflfa. Train to I'didah in 2 Ins.
This excursion may be done from Algiers
and back in one day (Rte. 7).
(10.) To Hammam Rir'ha (Rte. 10).
(11.) Milianah. Train to AffreWlle
in 4 to 6 hrs. ; thence diligence to 8 kil.
MUianah (Rte. 10).
(12.) Fort National. (Magnificent
views of Kaliyle mountains). Train in
4 or 5 hi's. to Tizi Ouzou (fair accommo-
dation) ; thence drive of 3 hrs. to Fort
National (Rte. 6).
(13.) Teniet el-Ahd. (Cedar Forest).
Train in 4 to 6 hrs. to Affreville ; dili-
gence thence to 59 kil. Teniet el-Ahd
(Rte. 5).
(14.) Cherchel and Tombeau de la
Chretienne. Train to El-Aflroun in 2 to
3 hrs. (The traveller should write
beforehand to keeper of Hotel d'Orient
at Blidah for a carriage to meet him at
El-Aflroun station to drive 32 kil. to
Cherchel (good accommodation). The
Tombeau de la Chretienne may be visited
by making a slight detour from the
direct road (Rtes. 2 and 3).
A Fortnight's Tour in Algeria.
iMany travellers when leaving Algiers,
probably for Italy, via Tunis, have only
a short time at their disposal, and are
anxious to employ it to the best ad-
vantage. The following route is re-
commended ; it will enable them to
see rapidly all that is most interesting
in the colony, and to reach Malta
within a fortnight.
First day — To Bougie, either by sea
or by railwaj' (p. 114).
Second day — By carriage, through
the Chabet (Rte. 12) ; sleep at Khax-
ata (or the traveller can go direct to
Setif in one day by diligence).
Third day — Continue drive to Setif,
and on by railway to Constantine (</. v.)
Fourth day — At Constantine.
,SVd. II
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS
13
Fifth day — To Biskra by railway.
Sixlli ddji — At Biskia.
Sco'ii/h day — Return to Batna, and
visit Lambessa.
Eiiihlk day-^Wait luins of Timegad
(p. 2ij8).
Ninth day — Visit Cedar Forest.
Tenth day — To Hammam Meskoutin
liy railway.
Eleventh day — To Tunis, and witliin
tli(! fortniifht tlm travcdler can embark
there either for Malta or Marseilles.
A Tour in the Province of Oran.
Some travellers on leaving Algiers I Route 21 is strongly recommended. It
proceed westwards, to Spain or (Ub- can be done in five days' actual travel,
raltar ; to such, if they are not afraid and a few more would be pleasantly^
of a few days' travel in diligences, 1 and profitably sjient at Tlem9en.
Nf.w Map of Algeuia.
A new and very beautiful Map of
Algeria is now being published at the
Dcp6l dc la Guerre at Paris, on a scale
of 1 to 50,000, or 1-4 inch to the geo-
grajihical mile. When complete it will
consist of 327 sheets. The hill work is
shown liy a combinatioii of shading and
contours which is very effective. It is
printed in three colours, and every detiiil
is shown. It costs only 1 f. per sheet.
ROUTES.
EOUTE 1.
Algiers to Philippeville, B6ne, and
Tunis by Sea.
Stea>ieus, both of the Transatlan-
tique Company and of the Navigation
Mixte, or Touache, do the voyage each
way once a week. The latter goes no
farther tiian Hone.
The steamer on leaving Algiers takes
an easterly course towards Cape Matifott,
where there is a fixed white light on a
masonry tower seen 8 m. olf ; the pas-
sago across the bay affording a splendid
panoramic view of the city and suburbs.
A short distance beyontl tlie cape arc
some rocks called by the Arabs Mrrsa
Toumlilin, where the French steamer
"Sphinx" was wrecked in 181.').
Prom JIatifou the coast is low and
uninteresting as far as
11 naut. m. Dellys. Pop. 3000.
[Algeria.]
The modern town is picturesquely
situated on a plateau, and, like all the
towns on the coast, faces the E.
The Arab town is to the N. of the
modern one.
During jiart of the winter the har-
bour is almost inaccessible, tliough
tolerably sheltered from tlie X. W. To
the S. and W. it is .surrounded by
slightly elevated hills detached from
the la.st counterforts of the range which
runs along the coast ; it is therefore
oidy jiartially sheltered from the N.,
the N.E. , and E. winds.
French Dellys contains large regu-
larly-liuilt streets, an<l a ju-etty S(|uaro
planted with trees. Tlie town is sur-
rounded by a wall, jiicrced with loop-
holes.
There is a handsome mosquf, which
was built l)y the French in exchange
for the ancient one given up to them
by the natives ; al.so a church, a free
14
ROUTIO 1. M/JIKIW TO PHILirrEVILLE, ETC.
Algeria
Kclidol, :i l;ii'g(! lios])ital, and Iiarnicks
for 800 iiiun. The Arab town is ill-
))uilt, dirty, and crowded.
A scliool of arfs cl metiers lias lieeii
establisliod here, to replace that de-
stroyed at Fort National dnring the
insiirrection of 1871. Tlie buildinfj is
very conspicuous from the steamer on
api)roaching Dellys from the W.
From the lij,dithouse to the end of the
jjromontory there is a splendid view of
the coast, wliich is here bold and rock-
bound. The soil is particularly favour-
able for cultivation, and the climate is
considered exceedingly healthy.
Dellys is built on the site of the
Roman town of Ruscurium, the ancient
ramparts of which are still visible on
the western side. In 1857 a fine
marble sarcophagus was discovered,
which is now in the museum at Algiers.
Ruscurium was finally destroyed by an
earthquake, and Dellys was built from
its ruins.
55J m. Ccq)e Tcdlcs. Near the
modern village of TaJcsebt are the
ruins of the Roman city of Rusuhescr,
and a little to the W. the more import-
ant ruins of Ticpirt, including a small
temple in a good state of preservation.
685 m. Cape Corbelin, near which is
Azzcfoun, now called Port-Gncydon,
after Admiral de Gueydon, a late Gover-
nor-General, a village built on land ob-
tained by sequestration after the insur-
rection of 1871. This was formerly a
Roman position, Rusazus. The ruins of
an aqueduct and of several solidly con-
structed buildings may yet be traced.
103^ m. In about 10 hours after
leaving Dellys the steamer passes Cape
Carbon, or El-Metkoub, "the pierced,"
so called from a remarkable grotto or
natural arch at its foot, through which
a boat can pass in fine weather. Shaw
mentions a tradition that it was a
favourite resort of the celebrated an-
chorite Raymond Lully, who was sub-
sequently stoned by the natives whom
he hoped to convert, and who only
survived long enough to reach his
native Majorca. On the summit is a
lighthouse of the first magnitude.
Beyond this is Cape Noir, and still
farther, forming the eastern point of
the Bay of Bougie, Ca-pe Bouac, on
which formerly existed a Turkish bat-
tery of 4 guns, whence the arrival of
vessels was signalled to the town liy
the sound of an instrument called bouc,
the sounder of which is in Arabic
bouac. There is now a small light-
house of the third order on the site of
the old fort.
106 rn. Bougie (Ar. Bouja'ia), 5086
inhabitants.
Bougie is the natural seaport of
Eastern Kabylia, a region very distinct
from the Kabylia of Djurdjura, of which
Dellys is the port. The town is built
on the slope of a hill, and commands a
glorious view of land and water, with
Mounts Babor and Ta-babort as a
background, 6455 ft. high, crowned
with forests of cedar an<I pinsapo. The
poet Campbell, who visited Bougie in
1834, thus records his impression :
' ' Such is the grandeur of the sur-
rounding mountain scenery that I drop
my pen in despair of giving you any
conception of it. Scotchman as I am,
and much as I love my native land, I
declare to you that I felt as if I had
never before seen the full glory of
mountain scenery. The African High-
lands spring up to the sight not only
with a sterner boldness than our own,
but they borrow' colours from the sun,
unknown to our climate, and they are
mantled in clouds of richer dye. The
farthest off summits appeared in their
snow like the turbans of gigantic
Moors, whilst the nearest masses
glowed in crimson and gold under the
light of the morning."
All the races wdio have successively
inhabited Bougie during 2000 years —
Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Ber-
bers, Arabs, Spaniards, and Turks —
have left considerable traces of their
domination. The Roman enceinte is
still traceable in many places ; it had a
perimeter of 3000 yards, and was further
strengthened by detached works and a
sea-wall. The Saracenic lines were
constructed about a.d. 1067, and vari-
ous portions of them still remain, not-
ably a large arch at the landing-place,
and two walls flanked by towers running
up the side of the hill behind the city.
A very high state of civilisation
existed in the lltli century, and it is
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. BOUGIE
115
curious to read in an old Arabic MS.
how, durinf^ tlie reign of El-ilaiisour,
in A.D. 1068, the hclioi(rai>h, which we
are fain to think a modern discovery,
was in common use here. Tliis prince
was on very friendly terms with the
Poi)e, who sent him 1100 artisans,
skilled in their different professions.
Tiiese erected a stately tower, whicli
wan caWcd C'hotif cr-liiad, "the Obser-
vatory of the (iaiden," on the summit
ol' which was an apparatus consisting;
of mirrors, corresponding with similar
ones estal)lished at dilferent points, liy
tlie aid of which they could comnnuii-
cate rapidly from one end of the king-
dom to the other. During the night
till- signals were made by (ires disposed
ill a pre-arranged manner.
In I'jOS, owing to the ])iratical prac-
tices of its inhaljitants, Ferdinand V.
of Spain sent an army and 14 .ships of
war umler Don Pedro Navarro, to take
jiossession of it. lie restored tlic Kasha
or citadel in l.oOO, and the del'ensivc
works were further strengthened and
restored by Charles V. in 1545, who
himself took refuge at Bougie after his
repulse at Algiers.
Leo Africanus, who published his
"History of Africa" in 1526, says:
"Wonderful is tlie architecture of its
houses, its temi>les, colleges, and pal-
aces." After the defeat of Charles V.
at Algier.s, the Algerians took advan-
tage of the occasion, and marched with
all their forces upon it. They stormed
the castle on the harbour, and the
citadel on the heights, so that Alonzo
de Peralta, the Sjjani.sh governor, was
fain to demand a cajiitulation. He
was allowed to return with 400 men to
Spain, where the monarch condemned
him to lose his head. After this the
city fell into decay, and when Algiers
was taken by the French, Bougie had
only a small garrison of Turks, com-
manded by a Kaid, and was not in a
position to olfer any serious resistance
to General Trezel, who took ])ossession
of it on the Gftth Sei.tember 1833. The
most interesting buildings at Bougie
are the ancient forts : Bunlj cl-Ahinfir
(the red fort), of which the ruins are
seen half way between the koubba of
Sidi-Fouall and the Gouraia, was,
before its destruction by the Spaniards,
tlie most ancient in Bougie, and liere
it was that Salah Rais established him-
.self wlun he took Bougie from tliem.
The fort of Abd-cl-K(ulrr, on the
right hand of the harbour as the
traveller lands, was built before tlie
arrival of the Spaniards in 1509, prob-
ably with the remains of an older
Roman building, and was much injured
by the carthijuake of August 1856.
The Kasha, on the ojiposite side of
the town, is rectangular in shape.
Hanked by bastions and towers, some
of which were destroyed in 1853. It
was built by Don Pedro Navarro, on
Roman foundations, and liears Latin
inscriptions, of which the following are
translations : —
"Ferdinand V., illustrious King of
Spain, has taken this city by force of
arms from the i)erfidious children of
Hagar, in the year 1509" — and "This
city has been furnished with walls and
fortresses by the Emperor Charles V.,
the African, grandson and successor of
Ferdinand. To God alone be honour
and glory. The year 1545."
The fort Barral to the N.W, was
also built by Pedro Navarro, and owes
its present name to the fact of General
Banal, who was killed in 1850, having
been interred there. IHs remains have
since been removed to the cemetery.
This also is used as a prison.
On the top of Mount Gouraia is the
fort of the same name ; below it is a
barrack occupied by military prisoners ;
lower down to the W. F^ort Clauzcl, and
on the beach, near the Oucd Secjhir, the
]*>lockhouse Salomon dc Musis, called
after a commandant supericur, assassi-
nated by the Kabyles in 1836.
A new line of works has been con-
structed round the town, consisting of
a masoniy loopholed wall strengthened
by bastions.
Bougie, strictly speaking, had no
port ; it is situated in a deeji bay well
protected from the N.W. an<l S., but
([uite exposed to the E. The ancient
Roman liarbour of Salda'- was that
part of the bay between the Kaslia and
the forage park beyond ; it was prob-
ably named after an older Pluenician
harbour called Saldou or the slroiuj. A
\c>
IlOrTF. 1. AI/JIERS TO PHILIPPi:VILr,K, ETC.
A hjeria
HOW liarlioiir is in course of construc-
tion, wliich will, wli(M> completed, con-
tain an area of about 15 or 20 acres.
The streets beinj^ built on the slope of
tlie bill are very steep, and many of
Lheni are ascended by staiis. The
gardens which formerly surrounded so
many of the houses are disappearing
before the inevitable modern improve-
ments ; still there are some beautiful
walks and magniftcent old olive trees
in the immediate vicinity — notably
i)eyond the Fort Abd-cl-Kader. Below
the gate of tlie Graiul Ravin may be
traced the remains of an amphitheatre,
in the arena of which is the tomb of
the commandant Salomon de Musis.
Numerous Roman remains e.xteud uj)
the base of Gourala, and medals and
inseri[)tions are constantly found wher-
ever e.Ycavations are made.
It is said that this town gave its
name to the French word for a candle,
first made from wax exported hence.
There can be little doubt that Bougie
is destined to become one of the most
important cities on the littoral. Not
only is it the natural port of Kabylia,
but also of the rich plains of Setif and
Aumale. Very little labour is required
to make the harbour perfectly secure,
and in a military point of view it is
strong and capable of easy defence.
There are two short excursions from
Bougie which the traveller should on
no account miss if he can possibly
make them. They are very grand in
feature and variety, and if the walk is
too much he can obtain a mule or horse
for a few francs.
(1.) To the Lighthouse on Cape
Carbon, distant about 6 kil. A very
easy road leads from the town along
the flank of the mountain east of
Gouraia, through the Valley of Mon-
keys, the southern slope of which is
well wooded with kharoub, olive, and
oak trees ; it then traverses tlie mount-
ain by means of a tunnel, and passes
over the pointed crest of the isthmus
connecting the peninsula of Cape Car-
1)011 with the mainland. The northern
face of the niouutaiu is much more
sterile, but covered in many places
with scrub, the only trees being Aleppo
pine. Nothing can exceed the sub-
limity of the landscape from every
point of view. In front is the open
sea, to the W. the littoral riclily
festooned with baj's, capes, and pro-
montories, and to the E. the majestic
mountains of Kabylia.
(2.) To the top of Gourala, from
which a magnificent view is obtained ;
there is a good road up, and the ascent
may be made on foot or by mule in an
hour ; the whole excursion need not
occupy 3 hours. 4 f. are usually paid
for mules for either excursion.
[There is direct railway communi-
cation between Bougie and Beni-
Mansour, on the line of railwaj' from
Algiers to Constantine. The traveller
can reach Aumale by this route.
From Bougie there is a route and a
service of diligences to Setif, througli
the Cliabet el-Akliira, every day.
See p. 200.]
The steamer continues its course
across the Gulf of Bougie to Cape
Cavallo. About half way, at a place
called Ziaoia, are the ruins of the
fortified Roman town of that name.
A short distance farther, seen on the
right, is the rocky promontory of Man-
souria, beyond which is Cape Cavallo.
Near this is a mine of argentiferous lead
ore, and the hills around are full of iron
and carbonate of copper.
Between this and Djidjelly is a small
island of a bright red colour, called by
the Arabs El-Afia.
In front of the latter town is a line
of rocks, on one of which stands the
lighthouse.
"^140 m. Djidjelly (.3021 inhab.) is
situated in a little bay, the entrance to
which faces the S.E., formed by a line
of reefs which seems to have been placed
there to serve as the foundation of a
breakwater. It does not, however,
shelter the anchorage from N.W. to
N.E. , as it has several openings, one
of which forms a pass 100 metres wide
and 10 deej). At the extremity of this
is Cape Bougiarone, which affords some
shelter from the E.N.E.
This is the natural outlet of a country
rich in vegetable and mineral produc-
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. nJIlUKI.LY
117
tions, extcuding iiii the valley of the
Oued el-Kebir as far as Mila. It oecu-
pies the site of the ancient Roman
colony of I<jihjiUs, which was a jilace
of considerable commercial inii)ortiiiiee.
During the Vandal invasion it shared
the fate of otiicr towns in the country.
After the Khalifas of the East had
subdued Northern Africa, it jiassed
under the Arab rule as a dependency
of Constantine, and Yahia ibn el-Aziz
built a suninier residence there. This,
as well as the town, was destroyed by
the Sicilians, commanded by Roger II.
in 1143. Tiie ruins of this chateau are
still visible on the Plateau Galbois.
In the 16th century it had extensive
commercial relations with Marseilles,
Genoa, Leghorn, and Venice. In 1514
it surrendered to 15arbarossa, who made
it a port of refuge and repair for his
]iiratical ex])editions. In 1664 Louis
XIV., desiring to found tiiere a military
establishment for the jiurposo of hold-
ing the pirates in check, sent an ex-
pedition under the command of the
Dur de ilcaufort to take possession of
it. The land forces, consisting of 5200
regular troops, including a battalion
of the knights of Malta, were under
the immediate command of the Conite
de Gadagne ; he was further reinforced
by 200 volunteers and 20 companies of
marines, in all about 6000 men. The
fleet consisted of 15 frigates, 19 galleys,
and 20 smaller vessels.
The army landed on the 22d July
1664, occui>ied the town, and began to
construct Fort l5u(iuesne, to defend it
against the Kabyles. Soon, however,
a Tnikish force ariived from Algiers
with a powerful artillery. The Due de
Ikaufort, who was on bad teinis with
the military commander, had left for
Tunis, and the position of the French
became very critical, and eventually
untenable. Comte dc Gadagne, seeing
his troops demoralised, ordered them to
embark, leaving behind not only his
sick but the corps detailed to cover his
retreat. Manj^ of the soldiers were
massacred, and the remainder cariied
off to slavery at Algiers.
This disastrous alfair cost the French
1400 men, 45 guns, and 50 mortars,
some of wliich guns were actually used
against them in the insurrection ol
l!S71. The Due de Beaufort was sub-
.seiiuently killed in June 1669, in an
unsuccessful attempt to raise the siege
of Candia by the Turks. He was
blown up by the explosion of a powder
magazine, and his body was never
recovered.
In 1803 an Arab from Morocco,
named Ikn-Arach, made Djidjelly the
headquarters of his piratical expedi-
tions, and captured 6 French coral
fishing -ships and 54 prisoners, who
were led chained to the town. In
revenge, the Dey of Algiers sent three
ships against Beu-Arach, who was
known by the name of "the Pirate of
Djidjelly."
In 1839 the Kabyles took pri.soners
the crew of a brig named " L'lnde-
pendant," wrecked near Djidjelly, and
refused to give them U]) without ran-
som. In conseiiuence of this the town
was attackeil and cai)tured by Colonel
de Salles in May of the .same year.
At that time all that remained of the
media'val town was a sijuare tower and
the wall which ]irotected the isthmus ;
little or no Roman ruins were ap-
parent.
The old town was built on the rocky
peninsula forming the extreme AV.
point of the bay. On the night of the
21st and 22d August 1856, a violent
shock of earthquake, accompanied by
a subterranean sound like thunder,
was felt, and immediately a great pio-
portion of the houses fell to the gi'ound.
The mos(|ues, the old Genoese tower,
and many others were destroyed. The
sea retreated a great distance, and
suddenly returned with immense fury :
these disturbances lasted 40 seconds.
On the following day another and more
violent shock took ]ilace, accompanied
by detonations and deep fissures in the
earth, and den.se clouds of du.st ; when
the shock terminated, not a house
remained standing. During a wiiole
year the shocks continued almost daily
till thi'y gi'adually ceased.
Tlie old city was restored as a citadel,
containing only jiublic buildings. A
new town has been built on the shore
of the bay to the E., surrounded by a
wall and ilitch, wliich enabled its small
1 IH
UOUTli; ]. Ar.GIKRS TO rilirJI'I'KVILLH, ETC.
A Igeria
^'.irrison .succo.s.sfully to support a siego
of .several weeks in 1871.
A route has long been in course
of construction between Djidjelly and
Constantine, which will open out a
vast field for colonisation in a district
where the quality of the land, the
abundance of water, and the proximity
of forests and mines, cannot fail to
secure the prosperity of the projected
villages.
[Djidjelly is perhaps the best point
from which to attempt the Ascent of
Babor and Ta-babort. The journey has
no physical difliculties, but it will be
found hardly practicable without the co-
operation of the local authorities. The
author performed it iu March 1878, but
it ought not to be attempted before
]\Iay, on account of the snow on the
summit of the mountains, and the
difficulty of passing the rivers which
take their rise in it.
The first night he passed at the lead
mines of Cape Cavallo ; the distance
from Djidjelly to this point is about
35 kil., and occupied 4| hours on
horseback. The second day he pi'o-
ceeded by a very difficult path along
the coast, visiting tiio picturesque cave
of Oitecl Taza and the ruins of Ziama,
and sleeping at A'in-Bou M'raou, the
residence of the Kaid of Ta-babort.
The journey took 9 hours. Thence, on
the third day, after a ride of 8 hours,
he reached the village of Bcni £izaz,
beautifully situated in an elevated
valley between the peaks of Babor and
Ta-babort ; the scenery throughout was
extremely beautiful and interesting in
manj' respects. On the summit of the
mountains are forests of cedar and
African pinsapo, which latter has been
described as a distinct species under
the name of Abies hahorcnsis of Cosson,
a near ally of the A. 2nnsapo, which is
confined to the S.W. of Spain. If the
traveller cannot ascend Babor, he will
see both the Atlas and the Spanish vari-
eties growing in juxtaposition in the
plantation of Djdicl Ouachc, near Con-
stantine (see p. 197). The most easy and
the most picturesque route by Mhich
to return to Djidjelly is through the
beautifully wooded country of the Betii
FuiKjluil, the only triiie in Eastern
Kabylia which remained faithful to
the French in 1871. During tlie au-
thor's visit the trees were not yet in
leaf, but the whole country wa,s car-
peted with violets, iioriwinkle, and blue
irises. ]
Beyond Djidjelly the embouchure of
the Oued cl-Kcbir is passed; this,
higher up, is the lioummcl of Con-
stantine, the Roman Ampsagas, a river
celebrated in the history of the ancient
territorial demarcations of the country ;
and farther on is Cape Bougiarone
{iJj.Iloii Garoun or Bou Koroun, llount-
ain of Horns, or Djcbel Sebda Jlaoos,
Mountain of Seven Capes). There can
be little doubt of the Arabic origin of
the former name, and that Shaw was in
error when he described it as a term of
reproach on account of the brutal and
iniiuman (pialities of its inhabitants.
He says of them: "They dwell not,
like the other Kabyles, in little thatched
hovels under the shelter of some forest or
mountain, but in the caves of the rocks,
which they have either dug themselves
or found ready made to their hands.
Upon the approach of any vessel, either
in the course of sailing or distress of
weather, these inhospitable Kabyles
immediately issue out of their holes,
and, covering the cliffs of the sea-shore
with their multitudes, throw out a
thousand execrable wishes that God
would deliver it into their hands."
This cape is the most northerly
point of Algeria, and rises in the
centre to a height of 3600 ft. above the
sea level. It is the I'reton of Strabo
and Ptolemy, and the Mctagonium
Prom, of Pomponius Mela.
At Bougiarone there is a fixed white
light of the first order on a niasoni-y
tower, visible from a distance of 20 m.
There is another at CajK Afia, nearer
to Djidjelly, which has a flashing light
138 ft. above the sea, and is seen 19 m.
in clear weather.
The coast is bordered by masses of
rock to the N. and ]Sr.W.,'but to the
E. the clitfs are lower. Passing this,
and also the point called Eas-rl-Kebir,
the Bail ^/ Gollo is reached, at the com-
mencement of which is
Sect. [T
IIOUTIC 1 . COLLO
1 l<)
]88 111. Collo (1269 iiiliali.)
The bay which .seivi-s as the liailiour
oC Collo is protected from all the most
ilaugerous winds, and oilers not only a
safe refuge I'or vessels trading on the
coast, but a tolerably eonveuieut land-
ing-])lacc for merchandise.
liehind the promontory of El-Djcrda
is another bay, called by the natives
Bdhr en-Nissa, the Sea of Women, so
called from a sjiring named Aln-Doula,
Fountain of Wealth, believed by them
to be valuable in cases of sterility.
An insc-rii)tion found here, bearing
the legend cdi.onia mixerv.e ciivllv,
proves beyond doubt that it was the
Kollops Macjnus of Ptolemy and the
Chulli Munici})ium of the itinerary of
Antonine. It was a city of consider-
able importance during the Roman
epoch, and its harbour was a frequent
station of the imperial galh^ys.
It was here that Peter HI. of Arra-
gon debarked in 1282 lor the purpose
of conducting in person an expedition
for the conquest of Constantine ; but
when he luard of the death of his
ally, Aboo-Bekr Ibn Wuzeer, govei'iior
of that city, he left for Sicily. From
1004 till lt)85 the French Conipagnie
d'Afriiiuc had an establishment here.
The jilace was occupied by General
Paraguay d'Hilliers in April 1843.
The environs are very picturesque.
Towards the S. is a fertile cultivated
plain, in the centre of which rises a
cone-shaped wooded mountain, called
lldu madia.
The streams near Collo are the only
ones in Algeria where trout are found ;
the species (see p. 72) is peculiar to the
Ourd Z'hnnr and its atlluents.
From Collo there is a good horse-
route joining the railway from Phil-
i|ip(!villc to Constantine at Kobertville
— 57 kil. in length.
A lighthouse with an iiitcniiittcnt
green light is i)laeed on the promontory
of Kl-I)jenli(, ; and there is a lixed red
light at the entrance of the jxirt.
In about :} hours' steaming aftei'
leaving Collo, the boat passes between
the island of Srigina, on which stands
a lighthouse, and the coast, distant
about \ m., and passes Stora, a small,
imltily- situated village, the inhabit-
ants of which are [iriiuipally engaged
in curing sardines. For many years
this Wiis the regular station of the
coasting steamers, as a bend in the
coast gave some shelter from the most
dangerous winds, except in unusually
heavy weather, when it was imprudent
even to approach the coast.
206 111. Philippeville. Pop. 13,394.
A magniticent harbour was com-
pleted in 1882 ; it is formed by the
projection in a W.N. W. direction from
Cape Skikdah, immediately to the E.
of the town, of a grand mole or lireak-
water, 1400 metres long, and liy the
projection in a N. direction, from
Chateau Vert, W. of the town, of a
mole of picrrcs j)crducs about 400
metres long ; the width of the entrance
will be about 200 metres, ami it will
have a lighthouse at the head of the
grand mole. The area thus protected
is divided into an outer and inner
basin ; the former has now an area of
95 acres, to be subsequently reduced
by recovery of land to 150 ; it varies
in depth from 8 to 19 fathoms ; the
inner basin will be of 45 acres, with a
depth varying from 22 to 50 ft.
It is contemplated to increa.se tliis
harbour to a very great extent, and, if
the jiroposed works are carried out, it
will have a surface of upwards of 1200
acres, elfectually sheltered from all
winds. During the great storm of
26th and 27th .lanuaiy 1S78, nearly
the whole of the harbour works were
carried away, and every vessel in the
harbour was wrecked. The whole has
been reconstructed, and the breakwater
widened to 30 metres at the water-
line ; it is crowned with a parapet 5
metres thick, and 13 metres above the
level of the sea. Vessels are able to
lie alongside the quays, which are all
revetteil with large blocks of white
marble from the quarries of Filfila.
There is very little to be .';aid about
the modern town of Philipi>eville, wideli
is liietUIiS(|Uely situated between two
hill.s, aii.l buili and fortified aceoidiiig
to the common type of Algerian cities.
It owes its existence to the neee.'v'*ity
which arose, after the taking of Con
stantine, of having a more direct mean
■20
itOU'J'IC I. ALOIKKS TO I'll I IJl'I'KVIM.E, ETC.
A bjcria
of loiiiiiimiiciitioii will] tliat city tliaii
by BGiiu. Oil tho 7tli October 18^8
IVlarshal ValiJo cncaiiiiied on tlie site
of tlic ancient city of Rusicada, and
imrcliascd it from tlie Beni Meleh for
150 f.
The Roman city was built on the site
of a more ancient I'htenician one, the
Tapstis mentioned by Scylax in his
Periphis, whence is derived the modern
name Safscif, applied to the river which
here falls into the sea.
It soon attained a high state of pros-
])erity, and, with Ciiia, (joiio, and
Mila, formed one of the four colonies
of the C'irtensians. No city of Nu-
midia with so small an area has fur-
nished such a 7nass of ariihieological
treasures. Many of these have dis-
ajipeared, but all that remain are now
carefully preserved in the ancient
theatre, itself the most interesting ruin
in the place.
An amphitheatre in a very yierfect
state of preservation existed outside the
present gate of Coustautine when the
place was occujned, but its stones were
taken away for building purposes, and
the railway destroyed the last vestige
of it.
On the plateau above are the ancient
reservoirs, which were filled by a canal,
bringing in the waters of the Oiicd
Beni Mdch. These have been carefully
restored, and still serve to supply the
modern town.
The ancient baths were in the centre
of the town, to the left of the Rue
Nationale, and are still used as cellars
to the military stores.
Rusicada was probably destroyed
lyalkcrCi-BoutalUc
about the end of the 5th century, after
which it disa])peared from history, and
its very name was forgotten. During
the Middle Ages Stora seems to have
usurped the place of Rusicada, as afford-
ing more shelter to the vessels trading
with North Africa ; but these, dread-
ing the treacherous character of the
coast, remained the shortest time pos-
sible, and jireferred the greater security
of Collo or Bougie to the W. , or Bune
to the E.
The traveller should visit the beauti-
ful villas and c/ardeiis of M. Landon,
at the Safsaf and on the road to Stora ;
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. BONE
l:il
tliey arc most liospilablj- left open lor
tliu public when he docs not happen to
be present.
A drive may lie taken to Stoka (4
kil.) ; the road is luxuriantly wooded
with cistus, myrtle, arbutus, and heath,
and commands splendid views of woods,
rocks, and water.
Leaving Philippeville, the steamer
directs her course towards the Cap de
Fer, passing the small promontory of
Cap Filfila, a continuation of the
Djebel Filfila, where are iron mines on
one side of the Oued Righa, and on the
other the tine marble quarries belong-
ing to M. Lesueur ; they contain marble
of a great variety of colours hardly yet
developed, and an unlimited ([uantity
of white, gray, and black. Siiecimens
of these may be seen at JI. Lesueur's
atelier, behind the railway station at
Philippeville, or on the kiosques at the
Palais de Justice. The distance by
road to the quarries is 25 kil. About
1.5 kil. E. of Filfda is IJuu Ksaiba,
where other deposits of marble, princi-
lially yellow, are found. Beyond this
is tlie embouchure of the river Sanedja,
and near it are the copper mines of
A'in-JJarbar, formerly belonging to an
English company (see p. 126).
The Cap de Fer or lias el Hadid is
a jagged, rocky point, projecting so far
into the sea as to have the apjiearance
of an island when seen from Philippe-
ville. The highest peak is loOO ft.
above the sea level. Its name has been
given to it from its iron mines, which
were formerly extensively worked. The
N. side presents a wall of rock towards
the sea. On it is a light of the third
order, alternately flasiiing red and
white every 30 seconds. Shortly after
passing the point, the Koubba of Sidi
Akknch is seen above a small bay. The
next headland is called Kas Takouch,
whi(;h affords a sliclter for small vessels ;
it was frequented by the Italian mer-
chants in the 14th century. A small
rock, the lie Takouch, stands out a
mile from the shore. A small village,
Ifrrbillon, has l)cen built here. From
this the coast is steep and rock-bound
as far as a conical rock called la VoUc
Noire, projecting ^ m. into the sea.
The Cup de Garde, like tlic Cap de
Fer, ap[)ears from a distance almost as
an island. It is a prolongation of tin
range of Djebel Edouyh, and is sur-
mounted by a lighthouse, 469 feet almve
the sea, with nji-nd a.ndjla.shinij white
light eclipsed every minute, visible at
a distance of 31 m. On the other
side of the point is Fort Genois,
after passing wliich the steamer anchors
in the harbour of Bone.
264 m. Bdne. Pop. 19,687. Seat of
a Sous-prefecture, tribunal of premier
instance, general commanding the sub-
division, civil and military hospital, etc.
It is called by the Arabs Annaba
(city of Jujube trees), and was founded
by them after the destruction of
lii]il)onp.
The Kasba was erected by the Bey of
Tunis in 130rt ; and from this time
until the middle of the 15th century
Bone was the resort of Italian and
Spanish merchants, who carried on an
extensive commerce with North Afriia.
In 1553 Kheir-ed-din, then Pacha
of Algiers, sent a force to garrison the
town ; but they evacuated it after
Charles V had taken possession of
Tunis ; for some time after it was
constantly changing hands, the Geno-
ese, Tunisians, and Turks all obtaining
possession of it in turn.
In 1830, after the taking of Algiers,
the inhabitants threw off the yoke of
the Bey of Constantine, and at their
re([Uest the place was occupied by a
brigade of French troojis, but soon after
the change of government in France
necessitated the concentration of all the
available forces at Algiers, and Boin
was evacuated. The French finall\
occupied it in 1832, when Cajitain-
Armandy and Youssef, with a few
soldiers, entered the Kasba. and suc-
ceeded in defending it against licavy
odds until succour arrived.
It is a cheerful, dean, and well-
built town. Much of the old ]>art has
been destroyed, but some portion, in-
cluding the Kasba, still remains. The
street.s are for the most jiart str.iigbt
and wide, although .some, such as tic
Rues Fnarl, Vhilippe, and Suffrcv, aiv
very steep, owing to the town bein-
built on uneven ground. The best
Fied. H
RODTK 1. HIPPONK
I2:i
shops are in tliu Jiue Ncuvc St. Aiifjus-
tin, ami CuurH Nationalc. Amongst the
principal squares is the Place d'Armcs,
which is planted with rows of trees,
and has a garden with a fountain in
tlie centre. 'I'he Gnind J\IoH(iue oc-
cupies one side, and on the other there
are houses and shops, all with arcades.
The Places du Commerce and Povit/o
are both ornamented with trees and
fountains.
Through the centre of the town,
from the cathedral to the harbour, runs
the Cours Natunialr, a delightful prom-
enade, beautifully planted with trees
and flowers. On each side are the
principal buildings of the place,
Theatre, banks, hotel, etc. At the
end nearest the sea is a statue of M.
Thiers, and at the opposite one is the
Cathedral of St. Augustine, a building
supposed to be in the Byzantine style
of architecture, but much more re-
sembling the case of a Charlotte Pussc ;
fortunately only the fafade is very
conspicuous, and this is the least ob-
jectionalile part of the structure.
The Miisqnc, DjavUia-el-Bcy, in the
Place d'Armes, has been constructed
out of some of the ruins of Hipjionc.
The exterior is in good taste ; the in-
terior is merely a repetition of all other
nu)S([ues described.
The Barracks, capable of holding
oOOO men, are two in number — one in
the Rue d'Orleans, and the other near
the I'orte Daniri'niont. There is a large
Militarti Ilnspitnl for 700 patients in
the Rue d'Armandy, and a civil hos-
[lital capable of holding 3.')0.
The town is plentifully supplied with
good water from Djebel Kdough. The
climate was formerly exceedingly un-
healthy, owing to the marshes at the
embouchure of the two rivers Si^ybouse
and Bou Djemiia, which enter the sea
close together ; now these have been
drained by a chain of canals, and
malaria has almost disappeared.
A short distance from the town is
a pi'jnniiri' lielonging to tJovernment,
in which are deposited a tine murlile
sarc()i)hagus and some other interesting
Roman remains, worthy of a visit.
Formerly the anchorage in the bay
was very insecure, but in 18G8, after
more than ten years' labour, the new
harbour was linishcd, and is now as
good as an}' in the colony, not except-
ing that of Algiers itself. It consists
of an outer harbour, having an area of
l.'JO acres, formed by two breakwaters,
leaving between them an aperture of
about 300 yards ; within this is a basin
containing 30 acres, surrounded with
handsome quays, alongside which ves-
sels can load in any weather. A still
further extension of the harbour is
being carried out (1889), which will
best be seen by the dotted lines on the
[)lan.
EXCUR.SION.S IX THE NeIGHBOUKHOuH.
Naturally the first excureion that the
traveller desires to make is to the spot
hallowed by the labours and death ol
St. Augustine.
The ancient Carthaginian I'bbo or
Hippone receiveil from the Romans the
name of Hippo Regius, not only to dis-
tinguish it from the Hiii]M) Diarrliytu.s,
but from being one of the Royal cities of
the Xumidian kings ; it was created
a colony of the Kmpire, and was one of
the most opulent commercial centres
of Roman Africa.
St. Augustine, who had been con-
verted four years before, was onlaineil
priest here a.d. 390 ; here lie resided, a
[)riest and bishop, for 35 years ; and
here also he wrote his " Confessions,"
and his " City of God."
In A.]). 428 the intrigues of the
ambitious Count Boniface opened to
the Vandals the door of the Afiiean
continent, and Hippone was besieged
by them for 14 month.s. St. Augustine
died during this time, and in 431 the
city fell, and its conquerors reduced it
to ashes, all but the cathedral, whieli
escaped, together with St. Augustine's
library and MSS. The town, which
was partially rebuilt under Beli.sarius,
was again destroyed by the Arabs in
the year (iit?.
St. Augustine was buried in tlie
r.asilic.'i of Hippone. After the per.se-
cution of tlu' Vandals had driven many
of his disciples into exile, two of the
last bishops are said to have carried olf
his relics with tiicm and deposited
;4
KOUTIO I. ALfUERS TO rHlLiri'KVILI,K, ETC.
A lijeria
thrill ill tlio I'asilica of Cagliari, where
tliey reinaiiied lor 223 years; they
were then translated to Pavia, ami
there tliey repose at the present nio-
iiicnt in a niagnifieent niouunient in
tlit^ cathedral.
In 1842 the reliquary was opened,
and the right arm of the saint abstracted
for the purpose of being conveyed to
Hone ; it was taken over to Africa with
great solemnity by a commission of
seven bishops, twelve priests, and a
number of monks and nuns, and de-
posited in the cathedral there.
An altar had been previously erected
to his memory amongst the ruins of
Hip[>one, surmounted by a bronze
statue ; this was at the same time
solemnly consecrated, and a religious
service has been celebrated there every
year on the anniversary of his death.
It is surrounded by an iron railing, but
this has not protected it from the sacri-
legious penknives of tourists, whose
names cover every available spot in
and around it.
Just below this is the only remnant
of Hip[)one now existing, the cisterns
and aqueduct which su])plied the town
with water from Edough. A large
church has been built above the ruins,
next to which is a hospital for old
people kept by the Petites Sceurs dcs
Pauvrcs.
Another pleasant drive is along the
Corniche Road to Fort Genois (9 kil.)
This fine new road was only made in
1885 ; it skirts the shore of the outer
harbour, passes the Arab cemetery and
the Plage Luquin, where are numerous
villas and a batliing establishment, and
here it joins the old road to the fort.
There are beautiful views of land and
water at every turn. Fort Genois was
built by the Genoese after their occu-
]iation of Tabarca, to protect their
ships when obliged to anchor in the
bay. Three kilometres farther off is the
extremity of Ccq) dc Garde.
AscEXT OF Djebel Edougii.
By far the most interesting expedi-
tion iu the neighbourhood of Bone is
the excursion through the Forest of
Edough. The road is quite practicable
for carriages, l)nt it is much more
pleasant to do it on horseback. ■
This mountain is tlie celebrated Mons
Pajuia, where took place .some of the
most celebrated events in the histoiy
of North Africa.
When the Vandal King Genseric
laid siege to Hi])pone, during the year
in which St. Augustine died, the in-
habitants of this mountain witnessed
from their natural fastnesses the ex-
tinction of Eoman power in Africa. A
century later Belisarius reconquered the
country, and Gilimer, the last of the
Vandal monarchs, fleeing before him,
took refuge in these mountains, whence,
before his surrender, he sent the well-
known message to his conqueror, re-
questing that he might be supplied with
a lyre, a loaf of bread, and a sponge.
On being questioned as to the meaning
of this strange request, the messenger
replied that his master wished once more
to taste the food of civilised people, from
which he had been so long debaiTed, to
sing to the accompaniment of the lyre
an ode to his gi-eat misfortune, and with
the sjionge to wipe away his tears.
In the neighbouring port of Hippo
was captured the great treasure of the
Vandals : "Silver weighing many thou-
sand talents, and a huge mass of royal
furniture (Genseric having sacked the
palace at Eome), among.st which were
some monirments of the Jews brought
to Rome by Titus after the destruction
of Jerusalem. Subsequently, at the
triumph of Belisarius in Constanti-
nople, a Jew espying the same, stand-
ing by one of the emperor's familiar
friends — 'It is not good,' quoth he,
' to bring these monuments into the
palace, for they cannot continue but
where Solomon first put them. Hence
it is that Genseric sacked the palace
in Rome, and now Belisarius that of the
Vandals.' Tlie emperor, hearing this,
sent them to the Christian church in
Jerusalem." 1
For several years after the French
occupation of Bone, Edough maintained
a sort of independence ; its inhabitants
1 Proc'op. " Wars of Vandals," trans. Sir H.
Holcroft, book ii. c. 6.
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. DJEBEfi EDOUGH
12;
avoiiled all intercourse with the con-
i[uerors, and abstained from all acts of
ajrorressioii.
In 1841, however, a Marabout, who
lived near tlie Cap de For, iniai^iniMl
that Providence had called him to be-
come tiie liberator of his country, and,
as then was always the case, the moment
a fanatic began to preacli the Jehad or
holy war, he was surrounded by a host
of followers as ignorant and fanatic as
liimself.
Several acts of hostility and bri-
gandage were jwrpi'trated, wliich could
no longer be tolerated, and a force was
sent to pacify Eilough, under the com-
mand of General Haraguay d'Hilliers.
Three columns ascended the mountain
simultaneously, from Constantine,
Pliilippeville, and Hone, ami com])L'lled
the tribes to recognise the authority of
the French. For a time, however, the
Marabout Si Zcnloud continued at
liberty, and urged his followers to re-
sistance. Tlic advancing columns drove
the hostile Arabs on to a small promon-
tory occupied by the Koubba of Sidi
Akkarli, l)etw('cn (.'ap de Fer and Kas
Takouch, when, seeing that all further
resistance was hopeless, they demanded
aman. This was at once accorded, but
while the negotiations were going on a
shot from the thicket behind wounded
an orderly of the General, who imme-
diately gave the order for a general
massacre. Many of the Arabs threw
themselves into the sea and were
drowned, the rest were slaughtered
without ]>it3'.
Si Zerdoud escaped at the time, but
was captured shortly afterwards, and
immediately shot.
The road ascends the southern side
of tlie mountain, which is at lirst rather
bare, and covered with tufts of diss
grass, but very soon cork oaks begin
to appear, and long before reaching the
culminating point the road traverses a
thick forest of these trees and deciduous
oak (Qucrcu-s Mirhcckii).
On the top of the hill, 329-1 feel
above the level of the sea, is the village
of lUigeaud, created in 1843, and named
after the well-known Marechal. It is
situated in a idearing, from which there
is a magnilicent panoraunc view of the
sea on one side, and of the bay and
plain of Bone on the other, boujided
by the mountains of the Heni Saleh.
The winter at Hugeaud is severe, but
in summer it has (|uite an Euro])ean
climate, and is a favourite sanitarium
for the good people of Bone, who can-
not all manage to get away to France
during the hottest jnonths. A few
villas have been built in the village and
in its vicinity. After having traversed
Algeria in every direction, the writer
has seen no place to be compared with
it as a summer residence.
About a mile farther on is the village
of Edough, composed almost entirely
of buildings connected with the cork
establishment of Messrs. Lecoij and
Bertlion, who have a concession of 8000
hectares of forest land. There is a
clean and comfortable auhnrijc here,
wliere an excellent breakfast can be
obtained.
Instead of continuing along the high
road, the traveller should turn off to
the right, and follow a path, which has
lieen ma<le in connection with the aque-
duct that conveys the waters of the
Fontaine des Princes to BOne. At the
head of the valley is a charming re-
treat, where the sirocco can never find
its way ; if we were inclined to dis-
believe the people who said .so, we have
only to look at the trees themselves,
covered with moss and polypodium, and
to the great variety of ferns which line
the roadside and peep out of mossy
nooks and springs. Truly it is a
princely spring, and deserves such a
name on its own merits ; but the Orleans
princes once picnicked here before the
days of the Second Empire, and the
fact has been perpetuated in their
lionour.
An abundant and perennial stream
flows down this valley, part of which
has been diverted and carried in iron
pipes for the supply of Hone. Tint an-
cient city of Hippo was supplied from
the .same .source, and the Roman briilge
still exists wliich carried the water
across the ravine. It is covered with
ferns and wild (lowei-s, and a venerable
oak tree grows from the very centre
of it. The under-shrub here consist'^
chielly of tree-heath, myrtle, and ai
^Mj
ItOUTIO I. AriOIKKS TO l'|[II,Il'l'EVir,r,K, ICTC.
A hjcria
Ijutus ; the wild cliurrics almost attain
tlio size of forest trees, while the giMjuml
is a perfect carpet of flowers and
creepers.
At about 13 111. from Bone the forest
has lieen much destroyed by fire. For-
tunately many of the trees were only
scorched and not entirely destroyed ;
they are beginning to sprout again, and
the uuder-shrub will soon be as thick
as ever. After passing this belt the
character of the scenery changes,
Ah!i)[)0 pines begin to mingle with the
oaks, the road takes a turn to the west,
running }iarallel to the sea, and soon
the burnt portion of the forest is shut
out from view.
The first impression that naturally
occurs to the traveller here is, that,
though the whole country is an alterna-
tion of forest land and grassy slopes,
there is not a sign of habitation ; yet
it is impossible to conceive a locality
Ijetter suited for colonisation, especially
for the growth of vines, which are
destined, at no very distant period,
to become the staple production of
Algeria.
The mines of Ain-Barbar are situ-
ated at about 25 m. from Bone. The
right of working the mineral over an
area of 1300 hectares was purchased
by the Anglo-Algerian Mineral Com-
pany from tlie original concessionaires,
but it has since been sold to a French
company. The principal mineral is
sulphide of cojjper, or copper pyrites,
together with sulphide of zinc or blende.
Small quantities of argentiferous lead
ore have also been found. The work
at these mines has been almost discon-
tinued.
There is a bridle path by which a
traveller can descend to the iron mines
of Ain - Mokra, and so by railway to
Bone ; but the road through the forest
is so beautiful that he will generally
be only too glad to return by the way
lie came. A few lions still remain
in the neighbourhood, and have been
seen within a mile or two of Bone ;
panthers are more common, but the
numbers of both are decreasing very
sensibly every year.
KXCUIISION TO THE IrON MINE OF
AlN-MoKUA.
A railway, belonging to the mines,
Init open to the jmblic, connects Bone
with the iron mines of Ain-Mokra or
Mockta el-Hadid. The distance is 40
kil. and tin; tim<'. occupied about 2
hrs.
This mine was at one time simply a
mountain of iron, which was blasted
and carried off to ]3one for shipment ;
now nearly all the mineral above the
surface of the ground has been ex-
hausted, and the veins, running in a
slanting direction through the mica
schist, are being worked by means of
galleries. Farther to the W. it is
still possible to find it d del ouvert, but
the palmy days of the mine are over,
and the company has transferred its
activity in a great measure to Beni Saf.
The ore contains 64 per cent of pure
metal. 300,000 tons per annum might
still be obtained if prices were suffi-
ciently remunerative. It is observable
here, as almost everywhere in Algeria,
that the direction in which the deposits
of iron ore run is from E. to \V.
There are some fine plantations of
eucal3'ptus along the railway, belonging
to the Compagnie Algerienue.
To the S. may be seen the Lake
Fezara, a large sheet of water about
12 m. square, frequented by numbers
of wild fowl. A concession was made
of the ground covered by this lake to
the Company of Ain -Mokra, on the
condition that the)'- drained it effect-
ually, and planted a "sanitary cordon "
of eucalyptus to the extent of 2000
hectares (5000 acres) around it. The
work was commenced in 1877, a canal
15,729 metres long was cut from the
bottom of the lake to divert the water
into the Meboudja, and thence to the
Seybouse ; the lake was really emptied
on the 5th August 1880, but after
every year of exceptional rain its basin
becomes re-filled.
It was found impossible to grow
eucalyptus, as the moment the roots
of that tree touch earth impregnated
with salt they die. So far, therefore,
the drainage of the lake may be pro-
nounced a failure.
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. LA CATXE
127
[From Bone the traveller can proceed
to Coiistantine, either by railway rid
Guelina, or by diligence to St. Charles,
and thence by the railway running
t'roni l'hi]i])])eville. The Ih'st ]iart of
the latter route is through a wild ami
hilly country ; at 68 kil. from Bone
and 91 from Philippeville it passes
through Jemmapes, a flourishing vil-
lage, near which, at Oucd Amimin,
are some celebrated hot sulphureous
springs, much esteemed for the cure of
rheumatic and cutaneous affections.]
Beyond Bone the coast curves round
towards the N. E. to Cap Rosa, 52
miles E. of Cap de Garde. The rivers
Suybouse and Boudjema both enter
the sea close to BiJue, and between
them the small hill whereon stands
Hippone may lie seen. The shore here-
abouts is very Hat, and to the S. lies an
immense plain, extending inland for
many miles. About 30 kil. before
reaching Cap Rosa, the river Mafrag
discharges itself into the sea. Here
the coast is more hilly, and is richly
wooded.
Ccq) Rosa or Ras Bou-Fhal (288 m. )
rises to an elevation of only about 300
ft. above the water, although the hills
more inland have nearly four times that
altitude. This was the Ad Didnnm of
the itinerary of Antoninus. It had a
temple dedicated to that goddess, of
which some vestiges were at one time
visible. This has now been more use-
I'ully replaced by a lighthouse with a
lixed white liglit, seen at a distance of
12 m. Beyond is a creek which com-
municates with the salt lake Guera-el-
nielah.
The ruins of the Bastion de France,
where the French-African Company had
its residence before removing to La
Calle, are seen farther on, and after
passing the small point of Cap Gros,
tlie steamer arrives at La Calle.
298 in. La Calle. Pop. 361 C.
The mail steanu^' stops on its way to
Tunis when tlie weather jiermits, Itut
tile traveller sliould be careful to ascer-
tain before starting whether the vessel
will touch.
A small town, 15 kil. from the fron-
tier of Tunis, the jirincipal industry of
which is the coral hshery ; indeed, it is
mentioned as being inhabited by coral
merchants in the year 960. The sale
of this article was regulated by otlici-rs
appointed for the purpose. In 1520 tlie
exclusive privilege of fishing the coral
was granted to France by a treaty whicii
was maintained until 1560, and was
renewed shortlj' afterwards, and again
dissolved in 1679. About this time a
company was formed under the name
of the "Compagnie d'Afriijue," which
obtained the sole right to the fishery.
At first the French established them-
selves in a little bay to the W. of La
Calle, which they name<l Bastion dr
France ; but in 1677 they were obligeil
to abandon it and estaljlish themselves
at La Calle, then a llouiishing town,
called by the natives Bordj (d-Kttln.
Tiie Company wius suppressed in 1798,
when the Forte ordered the Barbary
States to declare war against France.
In 1807 the Dey of Algiers let the
coral fishery to the English for a
term of ten years, at an annual rent ot
267,000 f. The French regained jios-
session of it in 1817, at which time La
Calle was burnt by the Arabs. In 1822
a M. Paret, of Marseilles, bought the
tishcry for eight years, and carried it on
by means of 240 boats. In 1827 war
liioke out between Algiers and Fiance,
when La Calle was again destroyed.
Shortly after the capture of Buiie the
French determined to renew their com-
mercial relations with the tribes around
La Calle, and to ])rovide once more a
harbour of refuge for the boats engaged
in the coral fishery. In the month of
May 1836 Voussef, who hatl recently
been named Bey of Coustantine, made
a reconnaissance of it, and on the 14tli
of July following Captain Berthier de
Sauvigny took jiossession of it without
resistance. It was found exactly in the
condition in which it had been left after
its destruction by fire on the 27th Juno
1827. A few houses were still habit-
able, or easily rendered so. That now
occupied by the Commandant Superieur
has hardly undergone any change ; the
church is old, but has been restored.
An interesting picture of life at Li
Calle is given by the Abbe Poiret, who
28
ROTTTK 1. ALOIRRS TO I'FilM I'TEVIIJ-E, KTC.
A Ifjerid
tnivelled in IJarliaiv Iroiii 17S5 to
1780.
Wlicii lio laiidt'd, tlio country round
was being devastated liy the plague,
and tlie com/itoir of the French jealously
liarrii'aded its gates to prevent all com-
niuniuation with the interior. The
Arabs, irritated and jealous at .seeing
the Christians exempt from a disease
which was committing such cruel
ravages amongst themselves, tried by
every means in their power to introduce
the contagion. They buried plague-
stricken corpses at the gates of La
Calls, they threw rags saturated with
virus over the walls, and, independ-
ently of these secret attacks, a con-
tinued and open state of hostility seemed
to prevail. La Calle was governed by
an agent, having the title of governor,
with about fifteen other officers under
his direction. The Araljs were ex-
cluded from the ]ilace, with the excep-
tion of a few who were retained as
hostages, or who were employed in
manual labour. The inhabitants were
from 300 to 400, mostly Corsicans and
natives of Provence. Some were em-
ployed in the coral fishery ; others,
nominally .soldiers, were occupied in
rtofla calle
guarding the cattle when taken outside
for pasture. Sometimes these same sol-
diers, in the guise of carters, were sent
to the neighbouring forests to cut wood.
Others, eaWed fregataires, were occupied
in loading vessels, transporting corn,
cleaning the port, and similar works,
and there was in addition a staft" of
bakers, blacksmiths, masons, and other
artificers. All these employes were
paid, fed, and lodged by the Company ;
but the fair sex was rigorously excluded.
If sometimes the Governor was permit-
ted to bring his wife, serious troubles
were sure to result, and he was rarely
able to keep her there for any length of
time.
The climate was then exceedingly
unhealthy. Violent fevers were of
constant occuri'ence, which carried oflf
their victims in four days, and the
mortality amongst the employes was
immense.
These were people of the worst char-
acter, as the Company received indis-
criminately all applicants, without ask-
ing any questions. Most of them were
convicts who had escaped from justice
in France, men lost through libertin-
age and debauch, without principles
of religion, or the least sentiment of
probity.
At ha Calle it was only the worst
crimes of which any cognisance was
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. LA CALLE
[-29
tiiken ; all others were allowed to go
without punishment, as the Governor
had only the shadow of authority, and
it was necessary to humour this nest of
rufhans always ripe for revolt. In
addition to the heav}^ taxes paid directly
to the State, the Company was suh-
jeeted to indirect taxation to an enor-
mous extent, and was sul)jected to the
most humiliating restrictions. It was
compelled to feed all the Arahs who
chose to present themselves. If an
Arab killed a Christian he was liable
to a fine of 300 piastres as blood money,
which was never paid ; but in the event
of a Christian killing an Arab, he was
forced to pay 500 piastres, w'hich sum
was exacted to the last farthing. The
Company was not i)ernutted to appoint
its own iiiteriireters ; these were always
nam(Ml liy the State, and the only
qualitication that appeared to be re-
quired was sufficient sagacity to enable
him to betray the Christian.
In 1807 Mr. IManckley, the British
Consul-General at Algiers, contracted
with the Dey for the possession of
Bone and La Calle,i which had been
a century and a half in the hands of
the French, whose contract had ex-
pired. oO,000 dollars, or £11,000, was
the sum agreed on as an annual rent.
This was actually paid for .some years,
without any result following, saving
that of keeping out the French for a
time.
Tiie fi-shery was till lately almost
entirely in the hands of Italian sailors,
who came to fish on the coiist, making
LaCalle their headquarters, and returneil
every year to their native country.
There were as many as 230 boats en-
gaged in the fishing. The banks are,
however, becoming exhausted, and as
there is no desire to encourage foreign
enterprise in Algeria, an annual tax of
400 francs is levied on every Italian
boat engaged, and one of 800 francs on
boats of other nations. The conse-
([uence is that all foreign vessels are
driven out of the market, and only
.'ibout GO small French boats are now
engaged in the fishery ; their crews arc
still mostly Italians.
' A facsimilo of this docuinont is given in
" Tlic ScdurKc of Cliri8ten<loin."
L.l^/'/■/,^]
The ordinary mode of dredging is the
same as that followed from the earliest
times. A cross of wood, to each ex-
tremity of which small bags are at-
tached, is lowered on to the bed <if
coral by means of a stone fastened to
its centre. The line from the cross is
attached to the boat, which is then
rowed backwards and forwards in all
directions, dragging the bags horizont-
ally over the bed, which thus collect
the fragments broken off by the stone.
Some of the boats have begun to use
the diving apparatus.
The old town of La Callc was con-
tained within the present fortifications,
on a ridge of rocks surrounded l)y the sea,
excepting on the E. side, where an isth-
mus of sand connects it with the main-
land. On this a new town has sprung up,
which year by year is attaining greatir
importance. Extensive works for tin'
preparation of sardines were estaldisheil
here, but the lish seem to have deserteii
the coast, and they are nearly all shut
up. It was contemplated to create a
new harliour of refuge in the bav "f
Bou Lilla, a little farther to the'W.,
the old jiort being too small to contain
vessels of a greater burden than loO
tons. A beginning was even made, and
more than 400,000 francs were exiiended
without any tangible result ; now that
scheme has been al)andoncd, and it is
[iroposed to shut up the jireseiit en-
trance to the harbour, v,hich is ex-
posed to the prevailing winds, and
to open another on the E. side of the
town.
In the vicinity are three large lakes,
of which one, Oucrah cl-Mchih, is situ-
ated south of the ruins of the 15astioii
de France ; the second is ('iii'-ruh cl-
Oiihcira, a little to the west of the town ;
and the third is somewhat to the east
of it, and is called Gurrah el-IIout, or
Lake of Fish ; the last two contain
fresh water.
Around them are extensive forests of
cork trees, which furnish a large trade
ill that substance. Immediately sur-
rounding the town, fruit tiers tobacio,
and csjiecially vines, a:e grown with
SUCCCS.S.
[A pleasant excursion nay lie inado
130
ROUTE 1. ALOIICUS TO ruirjri'KVILLE, ETC.
A Igeria
either by boat or on lior.s('V)ack (13 kil.)
to the ruins of the Bastion de France,
or Vrille ddle, the first (^stahlishnient
forined by the French on the coast.
On account of its insalulirity and the
smallness of its harbour, it was alian-
doned in 1G77, when the Conipagnie
d'Afriqne transferred its establishment
to lia Calle. Tlie ruins are still in a
good state of preservation, and one can
trace the outline of the fortified por-
tion, the vaulted rooms and casements,
tlie church, mill, and several otlier
buildings.
About 12 kil. to the S.E. are the
mines of Kef oum-et-Teboul, of argenti-
ferous lead and zinc ores. An English
firm takes the greater part of the ore
for Swansea ; in 1883 twenty steamers
came here to load, and took upwards
of 26,000 tons.]
306^ m. At 8^ m. beyond La
Calle is the headland known as C«^;e
Roux, the eastern extremity of the
colony of Algeria. It is composed of
rocks of a reddish colour, scarped on
every side. A large cutting may be
noticed in the rock, from the summit,
descending to the sea. Formerly vessels
anchored here, and the old Compagnie
d'Afrique used thus to bring down the
cereals purchased from the Arabs. The
remains of the storehouse built by that
Company may still be observed.
The French did not show their
usual sagacity in fixing the boundaries
of their colony ; or, rather, a desire to
avoid even the appearance of encroach-
ing on their neighbours, and perhaps
some jjressure from other European
jiowers, induced them to abandon mnch
valuable territory, which, if the pre-
scription of eighteen centuries deserves
to be taken into account, undoubtedly
belonged to Algeria.
After the fall of Jugurtha, B.C. 106,
the country between the east coast of
Tunis and the Atlantic was divided
into three provinces, Africa proper,
Numidia, and Mauritania. At subse-
quent periods these were further sub-
divided, but during all the ])olitical
and geographical changes of North
Africa, the river Tusca, or Oued el-
Kebir, formed the eastern boundary
of Nninidia.
This continued, almo.st till the period
of the Frcncli conquest, to limit the
territory owning allegiance to the Dcy
of Algiers and the Bey of Constantine.
When the present boundary question
had to be settled, the French naturally
claimed the line of the Tusca on the
east ; the Tunisians as stoutly con-
tended that La Calle belonged to them ;
so a compromise was effected, fixing
Cape Roux as the limit — about as un-
satisfactory and undefined a frontier
line as it is possible to conceive. The
inconvenience of this was greatly felt
so long as Tunis remained an inde-
pendent State, but now that it is
virtually French, the boundary ques-
tion is of no importance.
315| m. At about 9 m. E. of this
capo is the Island of Tabarca, the
history of which is most interesting.
It lies close to the shore, the strait by
which it is separated being about a
quarter of a mile broad at the W. end,
widening to nearly a mile at the eastern
extremity. It has a small harbour,
much frequented by coral boats when
the weather is too rough to permit them
to pursue their avocations at sea,' and
vessels of a larger size sometimes come
under the shelter of the island to
the E.
In ancient times Thabraca, as it is
usually called, or Tabcrca, the ortho-
graphy found by the writer on a mili-
ary column at Chemtou, was a Roman
colony ; and after the defeat of Gildon,
under whose yoke Africa had groaned
for twelve years, by his brother Slas-
cezel, the former endeavoured to eflfect
his escape by sea, but being driven
by contrary winds into the harbour of
Tabarca, he was taken prisoner, and
put an end to his life by hanging him-
self in A.D. 398 (p. 29).
It was a very important city of the
African Church ; the names of several
of its bishops are recorded, and in
1883 an inscription was discovered
commencing with the words memoiua
MAiiTVUVM, together with several fine
mosaics of the Christian period.
Several Roman roads radiated from
this place — one to the valley of the
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. TABARCA
131
Medjerda at Simitn, and others to
Hippo Dianliyttis and Hippo Ref^ia,
wliich brou;(lit tlie produce of these
rich districts to the sea for embarka-
tion.
Ei-Edrisi(lIiJ4)speaksofitasastron^
maritime phace moderately peopled, and
the environs of which are infested by
miserable Arabs, who have no friends,
and who protect none. It was even
then a port of refuse much fie([iiented
by Spanish vessels engaged in the cor.ll
fisliery.
In 1535 took ]ilaco the celebrated
expedition of Charles V. against Tunis.
On the conclusion of peace the per-
petual right of fishing for coral was
conceded to the Spaniards.
About the same ])eriod Jean Doria,
nephew of the celebrated Andrea Doria,
captured on the coast of Corsi<ni the no
less celebrated Algerian corsair Draguth.
On the partition of the spoil he fell to
the share of one of tlie Loniellini family
of Genoa, who exacteil as the price of
liis ransom the cession of Tabarca. This
was granted by Khcir-ed-din, and con-
lirnied by the I'orte.
The liOmcllini came to an agreement
with Charles V., who undertook the
fortification and defence of the island,
and built the citadel still existing,
principally with the stones of the
ancient city on the mainland. The
Genoese agreed to pay 5 jier cent on
all the commerce which they made.
Soon, however, the Spaniards neglected
to kcei) up the works or pay the garri-
son, and tli<' Hag of Genoa was substi-
tuted for that of Spain ; and though
the governor was still named liy tlie
latter power, he was obliged to render
his accounts to the Lomellini.
The inhal)itants of the mainland
owned allegiaiu'c neither to the IJey of
Tunis nor to tlic ])ey of Algiers.
Peyssonnel visiteil it in 1724, when
it was occupied Ity the Genoese. He
describes in detail the fortifications
armed with bronze cannon bearing
the arms of Ijomellini, which, ho says,
" make the island strdug and sure, and
in a e(Uiditiiin mother to fear the Turks
nor tln' Arabs of iiarbary. " It was
inhabited l)y Genoese, and had a garri-
son of 100 .soldiers, 350 coral fishers,
50 porters with their families, making
a total population of 1500 men.
In 1728 the Lomellini family ceded
the full sovereignty of the island to one
of its memliers, Jacques de Lomellini,
for 200,000 livres, and a branch of
coral every year, valued at 50 pias-
tres.
In 1741, during the war whicli Mon-
sieur Gautier, the Consul of France,
brought about between his country and
Tunis, the latter took jios.session of the
island. A part of the inhabitants, about
500 in number, effected their escaiie to
La Calle, and thence jiroceedeil to the
island of San Fietro, to the S.W.
of Sardinia, then uninhabited, where
their descendants exist to the present
day, under the name of Taliarcini, and
still pursue the coral fisher)', as well as
aiil in loading vessels arriving at their
[lort of Carloforte for minerals.
The Tuni.sian historian, Hadj Ha-
mouda ben Abd el-Aziz, says that 900
men, women, and children, were taken
as slaves to Tunis ; their descendants
still formed an intermediate population
between the Christians from Europe
and the native Mohammedans.
A ]>ortion of these were sub.sequently
redeemed and sent to colonise the
island lalled I'lana, off Alicante, on
the coast of Spain, to which they gave
the name of Tabarca.
The island itself is 400 ft. high, and
its western side is crowned by the
ruins of the fort built by Charles V.
The traveller should not fivil to take
a boat and row round the island. The
grandeur of the roek and the castlo are
best seen from the sea.
On the mainland the Roman town
covered a large area, the whole slope
of the hill. The remains of many
Roman buildings are still visible, but
these .iiipeur to have lieeii purely con-
structional, the few moulded stones
that have been brought to light l)eing
of coarse worknuuiship an<l exhibiting
no signs of refinement. One building
appears to have been a palace, or
public baths ; it is called Kcskcs by
the AraVis, and still contains several
larg(i vaulted halls in i,'ood preserva-
tion, 'fhere is a ruined diurcli and
lortifietl position Jjchind the hotel, with
132
ROUTE 1. ALGIERS TO PniLTPPEVILLE, ETC.
Alfjeria
a necropolis attached. A rude mosaic,
witii the inscription Pelaf/ius Mt^ya[ce],
was found here in 1882, and sent to
the museum of the Louvre, but it was
destroyed on the way.
On the liill above is the Bordj
Djidid, or now fort, built by the
Tunisians ; around it have been erected
temporary barracks and other subsid-
iary buildings, sufficient for a large
garrison, now, however, entirely with-
drawn.
Close to the island may be seen the
hull of the "Auvergne," a large four-
masted steamer belonging to the Tala-
bot Company, which was driven ashore
in 1878 ; the wreck was pillaged by the
Khomair, and though none of the crew
were actually killed, some of them were
grossly ill-treated, and this was one of
the indictments against them, which
ended in the occupation of their country
and of the whole regency by the
French.
About 10 kil. to the E. , at a place
called Ras cr-Rajel (man's head), and
again nearly E. of Cape Negro, 35 kil.
distant, there exist large and valuable
deposits of iron and copper ore. These
have been granted by the Government
of Tunis to the powerful company
which already owns the mines of JMokta
el-Hadid near Bone, and Beni Saf
near Oran. They have agreed to lay
down a line of railway to the mines, and
to make a harbour by Wocking up the
shallow channel between the southern
end of the island and the shore, thus
forming a port which will lie open only
to the N. E. , and which will be sheltered
from the prevailing N.AV. winds by the
island itself. It will be necessary to
dig a new channel for the river, which
flows into the site of the new harbour
during the winter months, for in sum-
mer it does not reach the sea at all,
thus creating a marsh, which is a ])er-
fect hotbed of malarious fever. The
whole of the property in the neigh-
bourhood now belonging to the Beylick
has been granted to the company, in-
cluding the island itself, a great part of
which will be blasted down to supply
materials for the harbour works. There
is no appearance, however, of the work
being commenced.
A ])racticable carriage road between
Tabarca and La Calle, and another to
Ain-Draliam, have been commenced,
but it is not yet (1889) fini.shed.
The river which falls into the sea
oi)posite Tabarca is the Oued el-Kchir,
the Great River, or the Oxued ez-Zan,
River of Oak Trees, the ancient I'usca,
which formed the boundary between
the Roman province of Africa and Nu-
niidia. It is also called in some maps
the Oued Barhar, probably on the au-
thority of ilarmol ; but this name is
quite unknown to the people of the
country.
Stretching along the coast from Ta-
barca, nearly as far as Cape Negro, is
a tract of country, in some jdaces 15
kil. broad, called by the Aiabs Bdad
cr-Ramcl, Country of Sand, or Puimel
cs-Sa/ra, the Yellow Sand. This has
been engulfed by sea sand, which is
advancing imperceptibly but irresist-
ibly in a S.E. direction, blown by the
prevailing N. W. winds from the beach.
There is no uncertain line of demarca-
tion between it and the rich forest land
beyond ; it ends abruptly in a high
bank, sometimes rising like a clifi' 30
ft. high, sometimes sloping gradually
down a valley like a glacier, but always
advancing and swallowing up vegeta-
tion in its course.
3352 m. Beyond this is Cap Xegro,
where the French founded a trading
station before their settlement at the
Bastion de France in 1609. It was
subsequently taken by the Spaniards,
and for a shoit time occupied by the
English ; but from 1686 till its destrac-
tion it belonged to the French. The
principal trade consisted of cereals,
wax, oil, and hides.
About 25 m. to the north is Galita
island, the ancient Calathc, once a
favourite resort of pirates, when they
wished to careen their ships or lay in
fresh water.. It is easily recognised
from its outline, the S.E. extremity is
rugged and steep, and the sugar-loafed
peak over it appears isolated when seen
from the north or south ; in a bay on
its south side is temporary anchorage.
Off the N.E. end are three islets — Gallo,
the outermost and largest, is about a
mile distant ; FoUastro is the centre
Sect. II
ROUTE 1. BIZERTA
133
and smallest ; and Galium, tlie inner,
is half a mile from the island. At H
m. S.W. of the S.W. en.l of GaliUi
are two otlier larger islets, Galitonn
and vi(jii(jlia. At a distance of 14 ni.
\V. by S. of the riorth end of Galitona
are the Sorclle Rocks. In 1847 HJl.S.
"Avenger"wasloston oneof them. The
crew consisted of 270 persons, all of
whom were lost, with the exception of
a lieutenant and 4 men. A little flirther
on, about 3 m. from the shore, are two
high rocks, the Fratclli, the Ncpticni
arcB of the Romans, one of them exactly
resembling a high-backed chair ; pass-
ing these the bold promontory of C.
lilanc is passed, easily identified by the
white colour at its extreme point ; then
an indenture of the coast-line marks
tlie site of
377^ rn. Bizerta (q.v.), a place which
may one day play an important part
in history as a naval station.
Beyond Bizerta is Ra.s ez-Zebib, where
are the tunny fisheries of Count Ralfo,
and Jias Sidi Ali cl-Mckhi, where the
Bay of Tunis commences. This is en-
closed between the cape .just mentioned,
the ancient I'roniontorium Apollinis,
and K(UH Addar, or CiqK Bon, the I'ro-
montormm Mcrcurii. The extreme
width of the entrance is 41 m., and
its length 27. Close to the former
cape is Knmda, or Ih Phtne, the Cor-
siira of the ancients, a low island,
pierced tluough in one jiart l)y a
natural arched canal, while on tlie
opposite .side of the bay is the lofty
island of Zeinbra, the Djamorcs cl-Kcbir
of the Arabs, and the yEijhmirus of
tlie ancients, with the smaller one of
Zciiibrcttn and Toiinara.
South of Ras Sidi Ali el-Mekhi is tlie
GImr cl-Mclah, or Lake of Porto Farina
(4094 iTi-)> i"to which (lows tin; livcr
Medjerda. This was at one time the
most famous arsenal and the winter
port of the Tunisian fleet, and here
our own Blake gained one of his most
celebrated victories.
A little to the S.W. is the wretched
little village of Jion Chalet; the site
of the celebrated city of Utica, Th<
Ancient, one of the first founded in
Africa. When later riuenician colon-
ists founded Carthage, Utica still main-
tained its importance though it wa^
obliged to submit to the supremacy ol
tlie younger city. In u.c. 300 it fell
into the power of Agathocles, and it
sulisequently i)layed an important part
in all the I'unic Wars, but it is espe-
cially famous iis being the scene of the
unnecessary .self-sacrifice of Cato. It
continued to exist till the Mohammed-
an invasion, when it lost not only its
being but its name, and was thereafter
known by tliat of Bou Cliater. The
ruins still existing of the ancient city
are not very extensive or interesting.
Soon Cape Carthage is doubled, witli
the Arab town of Sidi Buu Said, then
the site of the great Carthage itself ;
while the eastern horizon is bounded
by a picturesijue chain of hills, the
most conspicuous of which are llam-
mcun. cl-Enf, Bath of the A'osc, so called
from a fancied resemblance it bears to
that organ, and to the existence of a
celebrated thermal spring at its ba.se ;
Djcbcl licsfds, the mountnin of h-ad,
and Zaijhuwtn, the ancient Zciigis,
which gave its name to the district ot
Zeugitana.
Eventually the steamer anchors at
the Goletta of Tunis (437 m. ), where
we will leave it for the present.
ROUTE 2.
Algiers to Cherchel and Tipasa.
This route may be done either by
taking the railwa}' to El-Ajfrmin and
thenci! ])roceeding to Cliercliel by tlie
omnibus, p;ussing through Marengo, or
a carriage may be hired from Blidah for
25 f. a day. It is generally cheaper
to hire there than at Algiers.
r)0 kil. Blidah (see p. 1()G).
57 kil. Lii Chiffa.
(52 kil. MviitiiiitviUi;
G4 kil. JUni Jioinni.
68 kil. Kl-Affroun.
73 kil. Ainriir il-Ain.
80 kil. Bourkiku, at the junction of
the Milianah road. From this point
134
UOUTK 2. ALOIKRS TO CHKRCflKL AND TIPASA
Algeria
tho kilometiie distances are mea.suii;il
from 1 ii])Wiir(l.s as far as Clicrclicl, tlic
route being a departmental one, and
MO longer tho eontiiiuation of that to
IMiiianah.
85 kil. Marengo. 1536 inhab.
This is a clean little town, placed in
tlu! midst of a richly cultivated country,
with vineyards extending over an area
of many hundred acres. The fountains
and reservoirs are supplied by a caual,
which brings the water from the barrage
of the Oucd Meurad.
[From Marengo, a road 12 kil. in
hmgth leads to the ruins of the Roman
town of Tipasa, called by tlie Arabs
Trfaced, signifying "ruined." The
road leaves the village by the western
avenue, and, passing the tortuous bed
of the Oued Meurad, enters the forest of
Sidi-Slinian. To this succeeds a very
picturesque country, watered by several
streams, which, uniting, form the Oued
Nador. The road eventually passes
through heaps of cut stones and ruins
of buildings, and enters the village of
Tipasa. Here is a small auhcrgc, in
which one can lodge indifferently. The
harbour is small, but sheltered from
the W. wind Ijy a projecting headland,
and has a fixed green light elevated 102
ft. above the sea. It is said to have
been founded by the Emperor Clandius
on the ruins of an older city, probably
Carthaginian. It was from this place
that Theodosius (father of the emperor
of that name) started for the conquest
of Anchorarius {Ouarcnscnis) during tlie
insurrection of Firmus. The former
was shortly afterwards beheaded at
Carthage, and his son nearly sliared
the same fate.
In A.D. 484 the Vandal king Huneric
imposed upon the Catholic inliabitants
of this city an Arian bishop, in order
to compel them to embrace that heresy ;
a great [iroportion in consequence fled
to Spain, and such of the remainder as
refused to apostatise had their right
hands cut off and tongues cut out. The
principal ruins, which are of great extent,
consist of a Basilica, now known under
the name of the Eglise de VEst : it con-
sisted of a nave and aisles with an apse.
Around it are innumerable stone coliius,
which were buried only Just below the
surface of the ground. There are also
the ruins of a semicircular fountain of
tlic Ionic order ; the enclosing wall
and tanks are still in existence, as well
as portions of the fluted shafts of white
marble. It was supplied V>y the
Aquedicct of the Oucd Na.dor, of wliicli
the ruins extend to beyond Marengo,
and which is quite capable of restora-
tion. A numlier of very interesting
antiipiities are collected together in
the garden of tlie piincipal proprietor.
Monsieur Tremaux ; amongst others
an immense amphora, measuring nearly
5 metres in circumference, and two
white marble sarcophagi, beautifully
sculptured and almost perf('ct, belong-
ing to early Christian times, and not
later than the 7th century. The suljject
of one of them is a representation of
the Good Shepherd.
At Tipasa the sea has encroached
upon the land ; and through the clear
water parts of the ancient walls and
fragments of broken columns may be
seen. The shore is strewn with similar
remains, partly buried under the sand.
The small modern village is in the midst
of the ruins of the ancient city.
An excursion may be made on horse-
back from Tipasa to Cherehcl by the
bi-echc quari'ies of Djebel Cheunoua.]
IS kil. Zurich (240 inhab.) A small
village situated on the banks of the
Oucd cl-Hachcm. It was founded, in
1848, on the ruins of a Roman villa.
An Arab market is held here every
Thursday. This village made a very
gallant defence during the insurrection
of 1871. A party of 30 militia and 40
military prisoners, nearly all of whom
wei'e prostrate from fever, strengthened
a private house by a hastily constructed
stockade, and successfully held it dur-
ing many days against a strong force of
the Beni-Manasser.
22 kil. On the left of the road is
passed part of the aqueduct which led
the waters of the Oucd. cl-Hachcm and
the copious springs of Djchcl Chcnnoua
into Julia C;T?sarea. It consisted of two
converging branches following the con-
tour of the hills as open channels, or
Sect. II
ROOTE 2. CHERCHEL
135
traversing projecting spurs by means of
galleries. In only two places was it
necessary to carry the water over valleys
liy means of arches. The first was at
this si)ot, the second a few kilometres
farther on, at the junction of the two
branches where the united waters were
carried over the Oiied Billah on a single
series of arches, of which Kve remain.
At the former place the water was
carried over a deep and narrow valley
on a tri]ile series of arches, most of which
are still entire, with the exception of
a ga]) in the centre. The lower and
middle series consisted each of 7 arches,
of wliich f) are complete ; the upper one
had 16, of wliich 13 remain. The
masonry is only of cut stone as far as
the spi-ing of the middle arches ; the
upper part is of rulible. All the su]>er-
structure above the bottom of the specus
has disappeared, but at the south end
there still remains a circular basin, in-
tended to break the fall of the water
and receive any stones or sand th;it
might be washecl down fiom the hills,
leaving only the clear water to liow into
the duct beyond.
From Tipasa a direct road to Cherchel
is in course of construction, Ijut is not
yet (1889) completed.
32 kil. Cherchel. Pop. 2tJS0.
(Jiieirhel was originally the Jal of
thi^ Carthaginians, and was made the
ca]>ital of Mauritania, by Juba II., under
the name of Jul in Cicsarca. After vari-
ous vicissitudes it was destroyed by
the A'^andals, but regained .somewhat
of its splendour under the l>yzantines.
Ibn Khaldoun informs us that it fell
into the hands of the Mei'inides in
13U0. The Moors from Andalusia found
shelter here at tlic end of the l.">th
century ; Kheir-ed-din took it in ir>2(»,
and in the following year Doria burnt
jiart of the Algerian ileet here, but on
attempting to elfect a landing he was
repulsed and oliliged to retreat. "When
it was visiteil by Shaw in 1730 it was
in great reputation for making steel,
earthen vessels, and such iron tools
as were rerjuired in the neighbour-
hood ; its ruins were still very mag-
nificent, but it was entirely d<'stroyed
by an earth(|uako in 1738. In those
days there was a tradition that the more
ancient city also had beeu destroyed
by an earthijuake, and tliat the port,
formerly large and commodious, was
reduceil to its jiresent dimensions by
the arsenal and other adjacent buildings
having been tliiown into it by the shock.
It is pleasantly situated in a very pictur-
esque i)lateau west of the Ouccl Billah,
and between the mountains of the 15eni-
Manasser and the .sea. Kuins of former
magnilicence exist in every direction,
ami wherever excavations are made,
columns and fragments of arcliitectural
details are found in abundance ; unfor-
tunately little or no regard has been
jiaid to the preservation of the numer-
ous remains which existed even as late
as the Frenrh comiuest. Most of the
poitable olijects of interest have been
removed to museums elsewhere, and
nearly all the monuments have been
destroyeil for the sake of their stones.
The large amiihitheatre outside the gate
to the east still retains its outline, but
the bottom is encumbered with 12
or 1.^ feet of del)ris, and is at present
a ploughed field ; the ste]>s, except-
ing in one small corner, have di.sap-
peared, and every block of cut stone
lias been removed. The theatre or liip-
podrome, near -the barracks, is now a
mere depression in the pnouml, tliougli
in 18-10 it wa.s in a nearly jierfect state
of jireservation, and liad a portieo
sup])orted by columns of granite and
marble, to which access was obtained
by a magnificent flight of .steps. Here
it is .saiil that St. Arcailius suffered
martyrdom by being cut in pieces.
Splendid baths existed both in the
vieinity of the anijihitheatre, where is
now the C/kdiijis dr Mdr.s, and on the
opposite side of the town overlooking
the port Even as late as the author's
first visit to Cherchel, a curious old foit
existed on the public place, built, as an
inscrijition in the museum testifies, by
the Caid iMahmoud bin Fares F.z-zaki,
umler the government and by order
of T/(C Kmir who ixccutcs t/i<- unln-s of
(rod, ir/ni Ji(jhls in the viti/s of (Iwl,
Aruudj, the son of Vakoob, in thf ifcar
of the Hijira 924. This was 'nuilt of
older Roman materials found on the spot
by the celebrated corsair iJaba Arouilj,
surnamed by Europeans liar)>aro.ssa.
I 30
ROUTF, 2. ALOIIORS TO CHERCITEL AND TIPASA
A h/eria
NiiiruTous coluimis of l)liu;k didritc,
and tho breccia of ])jcl)ol Clieiiiioua, lie
.scallcrcd abovit tlie 2)lacc, as well as
magiiiliceiit IVaffiiieiits of what iiiiist
once have been a white marble temple
of singular beauty. In the museum a
great variety of fragments arc collected,
many of which probably belonged to
the same building, together with broken
statues, tumulary and other inscrip-
tions, capitals and bases of columns, am-
phone, etc. ; and in one corner, amongst
a heap of rubbish, are some precious
specimens illustrating curious facts
connected with the state of the indus-
trial arts during the time of the Romans.
For instance, a small section of a leaden
pipe shows us that such implements
were then made by rolling uj) a sheet
of the metal, folding over the edges,
and running molten lead along the
joint. An ingot of the same metal ex-
ists, as perfect as when it left the
foundry, with the maker's name in
lasso relievo. There is a boat's anchor
much corroded, but still perfect in
shape, a sun-dial of curious design, and,
most interesting of all, the lower half
of a seated Egyptian divinity, in black
basalt, with a hieroglyphic inscription.
This was found in the bed of the har-
bour, and may have been sent as a
]>resent to the fair Cleopatra Selene
from her native land.
One of the most interesting buildings
in the town is the military hospital,
once a Mohammedan mosque, supported
on 89 columns of diorite, surmounted
by capitals brought from other build-
ings, without regard to size or style.
The bases are embedded in the ground,
it having been found necessary to raise
the floor in order to protect the building
from damp. The mosque, which was
of immense size, has been divided by
partition walls to make four separate
wards.
From an antiquarian point of view,
there is no jilace in the province of
Algiers so interesting as Cherchel and
its neighbourhood ; and however reck-
less has been the destruction of the
precious architectural treasures which
it contained, abundance still remains to
lestity to the s[)lendour of the capital
ot Mauritania Ca-sariensis.
Th(! ancient ci.sterns, capalde of con-
taining two million litres of water, suj)-
port part of the Ijarracks, ami have been
tiioronghly repaired. They now suj)ply
Cherchel, as they did the ancient i-ity.
Marshal Clauzel nominated Haijj-
Omar as Bey of Cherchel in the year
1835; but he was unable to maintain
his position, and the town was taken
by Ijerkani, a caliph of Abd el-Kader.
In consequence of an act of jilracy,
Cherchel was seized by Marshal Valee,
in March 1840 ; and in August of the
same year the neighbouring chiefs sub-
mitted to the French rule.
During the revolt of 1871 Cherchel
was blockaded on the landward side for
about a month. A party of the insurg-
ents carried massacre and <levastaticin
throughout its environs, the aqueduct
was cut off, and the inhabitants had no
water, save what was contained in the
ancient reservoirs.
[If the traveller has a carriage he may
proceed from Cherchel to the Tombeau
de la Chretienne, and reach the railway
station of El-Affroun in time for the
evening train to Algiers (see Rte. 3).
Carriage from Cherchel to El-Affroun
18 f. ; or if he can spare an extra day,
he may visit both the Tombeau and
Tipasa without returning to El-Affroun.
Let him proceed by carriage to Tipasa,
via Marengo, but without entering
that village. 3^ hours. Go on to
Montebello, a delightful drive of 2
hours over an indifferent road, but
through a wild and picturesque coun-
try. After having visited the Tom-
beau, he may raturn and sleep at
Montebello, where he will find rough
but clean accom:nodation at the aubcrgr
of Madame Kaufmann ; or he can go on
to Coleah, a drive of 2^ hours farther.]
[Excursion from Cherchel to Tenes
on horseback.
7 kil. Novi, a .small agricultural
village.
15 kil. Fontaine -du- Genie, another
small village.
17 kil. Oued Messchnoun, where is
an iron mine worked for some years by
an English company.
All along the course of the road arc
Sed. II
ROUTE 3. COr.EAH
1:5:
niiiis of Koiiuui liaiiilcts <ind farms ;
one of tliL'se is on tlic left liaiik of the
Oucd Slid, about 800 yards from tlie
sf-a ; another is 4 kil. farther to the
W., hut the most important is on tlie
plateau of Sidi Urahim, situated be-
tween two little bays, that to the W.
espeeially being well sheltered from
the wind. There are the remains of a
fortified position, of an irregular j'oly-
gonal form, the walls following the eon-
figuration of the promontory. This
contains large cisterns, and a ])ostern
with staircase descending to the sea.
Behind it are the remains of the town,
and traces of an aqueduct.
oO kil. Gouraya, a village in the
^leighbourhood of which are important
iron mines. I'p to this point the road
is good and lit for carriages ; beyond, it
is only practical)le on horseback.
45 kil. Oucd D<imoits, the most con-
siderable stream in this part of the
country, flowing through a rich and
fertile ilistrict, but inhabited only by
Arabs and Kaliyles. There are numer-
ous Koman ruins scattered about, and
there is reason to suppose that the
Cartili of the itinerary of Antoniiie
was at the mouth of this river.
After jiassiiig the Oued Damons, tiic
aspect of the country changes, tlie
mountains become higher and more
abrupt, cultivated land ceases, and
there appears no possibility of tracing
a road to Tenes.]
ROUTE 3.
Algiers to Coleah and the Tombeau
de la Chretienne.
This journey may be made by dili-
gence twice a day to Coleah, and a car-
liage hired to the Tombeau, or by a
private carriage from Algiers.
Algiers to Staoueli (sec p. 108).
Aliout 2 kil. beyond Staoueli, the
road branches off to Sidi-Feruch ; and,
passing over the beds of several mount-
ain torrents, arrives, 3 kil. farther, at
2C kil. Zcnilda, a village aViout 2A
m. distant from the sea.
4 kil. beyond Zeralda, the rivi 1
Mic^iifrun (lit. sallion-coloured watei y
is crossed by an iron lattice bridge, T6
metres long.
[From this a road branches ofT to
Tipasa, passing the village of Cas(i<j-
lionc, formerly called Bou-Ismail, a
favourite bathing-place for the inhab-
itants of Blidah and the jilain ; it
traverses Saidia, a beautiful property
belonging to the Rev. Edwyn Ark-
wright. ]
From this point the road a.scends
through country for the most part un-
cultivated, and covered with brambles,
to the village of
33 kil. JJaouda (pop. 308), situati'd
at an elevation of 300 ft. above the
sea ; founded in 1843, and now nourish-
ing and prosperous. The country ad-
joining is extremely fertile ami well
watered, and the village contains a
church and sidiools, and is oni' of the
jirettiest of the Sahel. ,"> kil. farther is
39 kil. Coleah. 233t) inhab.
Coleah enjoys a certain amount of
renov.-n, from the fac'l of the eidebrateil
Maral)out Sidi Ali Embarek having
lived and performeil many miracles in
this place. He was originally the ser-
vant of a landowner nameil Bou-Ismail.
It is said that he used always to sleep
instead of doing his work, 7iotwith-
standing which hisoxen would continue
to plougii the same as if he were driving
them. This extraordinary eircumstancc
was reported to Bou-Ismail, who one
day hid himself near by, to ascertain
the truth of the report, and .saw Ali
ben Embarek asleep as usual, whilst
the oxen were at work. Bou-Ismail,
astonished at the sight, fell upon his
knees before Emban'k, and, ever after-
wards treated him with the most pro-
found respect, and on dying (a.d.
1():!0) bequeathed to him all his wealth.
Ali ben Embarek was buried between
a cypress and a palm tree ; and in the
earthquake of 182."i, when the whole
town was nearly destroyed, it is said
that his kouliba was the only luiilding
left uninjured.
In 18i52 General Brossard was de-
138
ROUTE 3. ALGIERS TO COLEAII, KTC.
A hjeria
S|i;itcllC(l to seize tJie A^^'liil Sidi Mo-
liiiimiietl luai I'^iiiharek, on tlie diarize
of having heen ini]plicutod in the insui-
rei'tion ; hut not Ixing able to liml
iiini, took ])i'isoner.s two Marabouts of
tJK! same family, and fined the inhabit-
ants 100,000 t, of which sum, liow-
ever, tlioy were only able to pay 10,000
f. Coleah was blockaded by Marshal
\'ale(! in March 1838 ; and it was finally
occupied by the French in 1839. An
inell'ectual attempt was made to take
l)ossession of it by the Bey of Milianah
in 1841.
Coleah is placed on a plateau at a
height of 450 ft. above the .sea, and
commands a magniticent view of the
Metidja Plain, and of the range of the
Atlas.
The town lias been entirely rebuilt
since its destruction by the earthquake
in 1825 ; and like most other French
town.s in Algeria, consists of a few
straight regular streets with tiled
houses, and courtyards planted with
fruit trees.
One of the most striking objects in
Coleah is the gardeii which has been
made in the small ravine separating the
civil town from the military quarter.
It is entirely the work of the French
soldiers, and is kept with great care.
The principal mosque, now used as
the military hospital, is a tasteful
building, composed of five arched naves,
supported by stone columns. There is
a minaret attached, which has a strik-
ing appearance from the town. The
koubba of Sidi-Embarek is a few paces
from the mosque.
The camj), which is situated on a
small hill to the S. W. of the town, is
of considerable size, the barracks being
able to accommodate 1200 .soldiers ; in
addition to which there are commodious
storehouses, and other buildings.
The Market is held daily in the Rue
Es-Souk. The Arab market is held at
the same place every Friday.
The princii)al object of interest, how-
ever, in the neighbourhood of Coleah is
the great sepulchre of the Mauritanian
kings, variously styled Tombeau de la
Chretienne, Tombeau de la Reine, or
in Arabic Kuhr-er-Roumia, tomb of the
Christian woman.
It is one of three somewhat similar
edilices, one of wliich is found in each
l)rovince of Algeria, the other two being
the Mediassen, or tomb of the Numi-
dian kings in Conistantine, and El-
Djedar in Oran.
This, however, is the only one men-
tioned l)y any ancient author. I'ompo-
nius Mela, in his work " De Situ Orbis,"
written about the middle of the lirst
century, after the death of Juba II.,
but before the murder of his son
Ptolemy, mentions both Ca;sarea
{Chcrchcl) and Icosium [Algiers) ; and
states that beyond the former is the
moniomenlum commune recjioi (jentis.
This at once decides the nature of the
building, which, though intended to
be seen far and near, is yet entirely
(■oncealed from view at Cherchel by the
mountain of Chennoua, the presump-
tion being that the king would not
care to have constantly within sight of
his royal residence the tomb which he
had caused to be constructed for him-
self. The resemblance to the Medrassen,
or Tomb of the Numidian kings, from
whom Juba was descended, is another
presumption that it was erected by him
in imitation of his ancestral mauso-
leum,
Juba II. married Cleopatra Selene,
daughter of the celebrated Egyptian
queen by Marc Antony, and there is
every probability that this monument
served only as his tomb and that of his
wife who died before him. It is hardly
likely that the remains of his .son
Ptolemy, the last of his race, could have
lieen transferred from Rome to Africa.
His only other child was a daughter
Drusilla, wife of Felix, Governor of
Judea, who said to Paul, " Go thy way
for this time, when I have a convenient
season I will call for thee."
The tomb must have been violated
at a very early period in search of
hidden treasure. A careful examina-
tion of the accumulated earth and dust
within revealed traces of successive
races who had visited the place, some
of whom had even made it a place of
residence, but none whatever of the
bodies for whose reception it had been
erected.
It is called by the Arabs Kuhr-cr-
I^ed. II
ROUTE 3. TOMBEAU DE LA CHR^TIENNE
130
Roumia, Tomb of the Roman, or ratlier
Christian woman, tlic word lioumi
(fern. Roumia) beinj^ used commonly
by Arabs all over tlie East to desifjnate
strangers of Christian oripfin. Various
explanations are given of this name.
Marmol mentions a tradition, that
under it were interred the mortal re-
mains of the beautiful daughter of
Count Julian, over the story of whose
misfortunes the muse of Southey has
shed so strong an interest.
Shaw states that amongst the Turks
it was known by the name Mcdtapasy,
or Treasure of the Sugar Loaf ; and the
belief tiiat it covered some great accumu-
lation of riihes has exposed it to attacks
by whicii it has lieen much ruined, and
l)cfore wiiich a less solid structure would
have altogether disappeared. Marmol
adds : —
" In the year 1555 Solharraes (Salah
Rais) attempted to pull it down, lioj)ing
to find some treasure in it ; but when
they lifted up the stones, there came a
sort of black poisonous wasps from under
them, which caused immediate death
wherever they stinged, and upon that
liarbarossa dropped his design."
Tlie Tombeau de la Chretienne is
built on a hill fonning part of the
Sahel I'ange, 756 ft. above the level
of the sea, covered with a brushwood
of lentisk and tree heath, situated
nearly midway between Tipasa and
Coleah, and to the west of Algiers.
It is a circular buililing, originally
about 131 ft. in height ; the actual
height at present is 100 ft. 8 in., of
which the cylindrical portion is 36 ft.
6 in., and the pyramid 64 ft. 2 in.
The base is 198 ft. in diameter, and
forms an encircling podium, or zone,
of a decorative character, presenting
a vertical wall, ornamented with 60
engaged Ionic columns, '2 ft. 5 in. in
diameter, surmounted by a frieze or
cornice of simple form. The capitals
of the columns have entirely disap-
peared, but an accurate design of them
has been ]>reserved among.st the draw-
ings of Hruce.
The colonnade has at the cardinal
points four false doors, the four panels
of which, producing what may have
beeu taken to represent a cross, prob-
ably contributed to fix the ai>i»ellation
of Christian to it.
Above tlie cornice rise a series of
33 steps, which gradually decrease in
circular area, giving the building the
appearance of a truncated cone.
The whole monument is placed on a
low platform 63 m. 90 c. square, the
sides of which are tangents to the cir-
cular base.
During the Emperor Napoleon's last
visit to Africa he charged the well-
known Algeiian scholars, M. IJer-
brugger and M. MacCarthy, the late
and present directors of the library and
museum, to explore this tomb, which
had never been jtenetrated in modern
times, notwithstanding the attempt of
Salah Rais in Looo, and the etforts of
Haba Jlohanimed in the end of the
ISth century, to batter it down by
means of artillery.
In Jlay 1866 a hole was drilled b}'
an Artesian sound, which gave imlica-
tions of an interior cavity, and shortly
afterwards an opening was made from
the exterior to the interior passage.
Entering by this, both the central
chamber and the regular door were
easily found.
Below the false door, to the E., is a
smaller one, giving access to a vaulted
chamber, to the right of which was the
door of the jirincipal gallery. Above
this the ligurcs of a lion and a lioness
arc rudely sculptured.
From this passage a large gallery,
about 2 metres in lu'cadth, by 2 ni. 42
c. in height, is entered by a Might of
stejis. Along it are niches in the wall,
intended to hold lamps. Its total
length is 149 metres. This winds
round in a s)iiral direction, gradually
afiproacliing the centre, where arc two
sepulchral vaulted ch.iinbers, one 4 ni.
45 c. by 3 m. 45 c, and 3 ni. 45 c. high,
and the other 4 m. by 1 m. 50 c, and
2 m. 75 c. high, separated from each
other by a short passage, and shut olf
from the winding pa.ssage by stone
doors, consisting of a single slab cap-
able of being moved up and down by
levers like a portcullis. Tiic lining of
the passage and ilianibei-s is of the
most beautiful cut stone ma.soiiry.
A more convenient way of visiting
140
UOUTE 4. ALGIERS TO ROVIGO, ETC.
Alfjeria
tlic Tombeau IVoiii Alf^iurs, if time be an
objcet, is to telei^raj)]! or wi'itc before-
hand to any of tlie iiotels at Marcnj^o to
iinler a carriage to Ije in waiting at Kl-
AllVoiin station on tlie arrival of the
morning train from Algiers. The trav-
eller will have ample time to drive to
tiie Tombeau and liaek, so as to catch
the evening train from Oran to Algiers.
He ought to 2)rovide himself with pro-
visions and a few candles. As the key
of the Tombeau is kept at a farm on
the opposite side, he may be compelled
to enter the building by an opening in
tlie side opposite the door, a proceeding
which necessitates a slight scramble.
From Coleah there is a service of
omnibuses every day to Blidah.
ROUTE 4.
Algiers to Rovigo and the Baths of
Hammam Melouan.
Omnibuses from Algiers to Rovigo
every day. There is also an omnibus
at the rly. stn. of Gue de Constantino,
in correspondence with the morning
train from Algiers, and the evening
one to it ; but the most convenient way
is to drive from Algiers straight to the
baths, which can now be reached by
carriage ; formerly mules were required
I'roin Rovigo.
Leaving Algiers the road passes
Mustafa Inferieur, the Ruisseau and
Koubba, whence it descends gradually
into tlie Metidja.
12"7 kil. Gue de Constantine, rly.
stn. ; service of omnibuses to Rovigo.
14 kil. Road crosses Harrach by an
iron bridge,
2.3 kil. Sidi-Momm (250 inhab.)
An agricultural village on the Oued
Djcmda, an affluent of the Harradi, at
the junction of the roads to Bou-Farik,
Rovigo, and Aumale, created in 1851,
made a commune in 1861.
24 "5 kil. Road crosses Oued Djemiia
by a wooden bridge.
Hitherto the road has been over a
highly cultivated part of the Metidja.
As it approaches Rovigo it passes
amongst orangeries and orchards of
fruit trees, for which this place is
celebrated, owing to the abundant
means of irrigation.
30 kil. 7tV«> (350 inliab.) Named
after the Due de Rovigo, Governor-
General of Algeria, founded 1849, made
a commune 1861.
The village is situated at the foot of
the first slopes of the Atlas, at the point
where the Harrach enters into the plain.
The road winds along the valley of
the Harrach, through most picturesque
mountain scenery ; the sides of the
ravine are well wooded with pines,
thuyas, olives, etc., and the bed of the
i-iver filled with oleanders.
37 kil. Hammam Melouan (the
coloured bath). A small ami by no
means a comfortable inn is situated
within a stone's throw of the baths ; as
it contains only three bedrooms, each
with one small bed, accommodation
should be secured beforehand.
The baths are situated in an open
part of the valley, containing about 10
acres of park-like land, with fine old
olive and lentisk trees, well adapted
for camping out ; in the season, from
the middle of May till the end of June,
and again in October, there are fre-
quently as many as 70 tents pitched
here, many of which belong to Euro-
peans and Jews. The guardian is
authorised to receive 5 centimes for
each bath, and as this fee brings him
in 700 f. a year, it follows that not less
than 14,000 are taken annually.
There are two principal springs, one
of which flows through a rude bath in
the ancient Arab Koubba of Si Suli-
man ; the other is in a similar piscine
in a wooden hut behind the auberge ;
both are dirty and ill cared for, and
being only about 7 ft. by 4, they do
not afford ade(|uate accommodation for
the large number of visitors who fre-
quent them. Were the water properly
economised, and all the sources collected
and led into well-constructed bathing-
places, 600 baths a day might be avail-
able.
The water has a temperature of 103°
Fahr., and contains nearly as much
saline matter as that of Nauheim. The
latter has 31 '4 grammes of saline matter
in every kilogramme of water, of which
27 '3 are common salt. The Hammam
Sect. II
ROUTE 5. TENIKT-EL-AHD
Ml
Melonan contains 29 •! and 26 '3 respec-
tively ; while the water of the Mediter-
ranean has 30 '2 grammes of salt jier kil.
The springs of Hammam Melonan
contain, moreover, a small quantity of
iion, the red dejiosit of which gives
rise to the name.
Tiiese tiiermal waters are deservedly
held in high repute both amongst
natives and Europeans, on account of
tlieir healing qualities in all rheumatic
and cutaneous affections.
ROUTE 5.
Algiers to Teniet-el-Ahd.
I'y taking the early train from Algiers
to AtlVeville, the journey can be ilone
ill one day. A diligence starts every
day from tlie latter jdaee on the arrival
of the train, leaving Teuiet on its re-
turn the following day at 9.30 .\.M.
The journey occupies 8 hours.
Time is usually allowed for break-
fast at the butiet of Alfreville, but there
is not always time to dine there on
returning.
Carriages for the journey may be
obtained at Milianah. The road leaves
Alfreville by the suburb of Charleville,
and then strikes across the ]>lain of the
Cttrlif. On reaching the S. side of the
]ilain, it takes a side sweep to the E. ,
iollowing the windings of the Oucd
Mitssin. By this means the necessary
elevation is attained without any .sudden
or steep ascent. It is well engineered
throughout, and is in good condition.
After the first 20 kil. the scenery is
pretty, ami the hills agreeably wooded
with tamarisk, broom, juniper, ;aml
lentisk. Presently, as the road as-
cends, oaks and pines are seen among
tiie brushwood. Several small auberges
are passed.
27 kil. Caravanserai of the Oucd
Mtissiii or Ansrur cl-Louza, built on
ojuMi ground, surrounded bj' sjilcndid
woods of oak and pine. Here tiie dili-
gence changes horses, and drivers sto|
to rest. Travellers sometimes pass the
night here. Excellent shooting in tin
vicinity.
35 kil. La Camp dfs Chvnas, a small
inn i)icturesquel}' situated, with a grove
of evergreen oaks in front of it. This
is a convenient mid-day halt if the
traveller has a private carriage. A good
breakfast may be obtained. Througii
the valley on the right a glimpsi! is
obtained of the T)jel»l Esh-Shain, near
Tiizu. After this the road ascends
through a narrow gorge, finely woodul
with Aleppo i)ine, ami ])asses over a
Col, close to a remarkable hill of conical
shape, called " the Sugar Loaf," crowned
by a pile of limestone rocks.
47 kil. Auhrijc di: hi lUunpc, a small,
clean inn.
57 kil. Teniet-elAhd. 1115 inhab.
3807 ft. above the sea.
Horses and muhs fur the excur-
sion may be procured at the hotel ;
the " Kond Point," to which, in order
to .save time, travellers should go first,
may even be reached in a carriage,
but the road is very rough and .some-
times impracticalde. They should take
provisions witii them, antl start as early
as possible. It takes 2 hours to ride
to the Cedars, and as many back. It
would probably require nearly an equal
time to go on foot, as the horses must
walk all the way.
The village of Teniet-el-Ahd, signi-
fying 7V.SVV of Sunddii, from the Arab
market held there every .Sun<lay, is
.situated in a .small gra.ssy jtlain, sur-
rounded by high peaks, at 3810 ft.
above the sea level, and has (|uite an
Ali)ine appearance. It commamls the
pass through a remarkable break in the
Athis, by which easy eominunieatioii
is obtained between the Tell to the N.,
the OunnnhiniLi, the Plateau of Scrsmi,
and the. J/dul.s I'hitnnu- to thi! S. It
is a jilcasant, ]>rosperous village, of one
long street, shatled with i)lane trees,
and commanded by a fort on an emi-
nence to the W., containing the bar-
racks, the residence of the Commanlant
Su]ierieur, etc. The old Bureau Arabi-
is in a snnill fortified enclosure on a
hill farther W.
Tiie Cedar forest is on the range
which extends W. for 2r) to 30 kil., ami
then, after rising into a bold conical
peak, 5811 ft., turns suddenly to tin-
142
ROUTK 5. ALGIERS TO TENIET-EL-ATID
A lyeria
S., and forms a succession of low hills.
The forest bef(ins at about 3 kil. from
the village, but it is at least 13 to the
chalet, called "Le Kond Point des
Cedres," 4977 ft., where there is a
beautiful lawn bounded by a semicircle
of trees. Near this are the largest
cedars, hero also is the house of the
Garde Forestier, and a small chrUet.
The Ccdrus Atlantica is usually found
in about 36" of N. lat.,at a height of 4000
to 7000 ft. above the sea. The young
trees have a pyramidal form, but when
one rises above its neighbours, and a
blast of wind, lightning, or an insect
destroys its leading shoots, the branches
extend laterally, and the tree assumes
an umbrelladike aspect, forming a .shade
imiicrvious to the least ray of sun.
There are 9000 acres of forest in this
part of the range alone, of which about
four-fifths are cedars, and the rest oak
of dill'erent species, evergreen and de-
ciduous. It is sad to see how many of
the cedars are dead, having been burnt
by Arab incendiaries. The lower por-
tions of the range are covered with
evergreen oak ; the upper portions,
on the N. side, with cedars, which
descend the S. flank for only a short
distance, the increased tempeiature not
suiting them. The largest of the exist-
ing trees, "La Sultane," is nearly 100
ft. high, with a diameter of 9 ft. ;
another, " Le Sultan," now fallen, was
even larger. The wild flowers are very
beautiful in spring, especially the I'lilipa
fragrans and the FritiUaria orancnsis,
which are not found in the lower region.
It is (juite impossible to exaggerate the
beauty of the forest. The road, as it
winds round the spurs of the range,
gives views, that change continually,
of the mountains and the trees, which,
to appreciate them properly, must be
seen from above as well as from below.
It is worth while to mount to the top
of the ridge (5643 ft.) above "La
Sultane," a steep climb of about 30
min. On reaching the crest, which
is singularly sharp and well defined, a
bare spur of limestone is seen, project-
ing B., from which a view of singular
beauty is obtained. In front is the
grand mass of the Ouaransenis, " L'Q^^il
du Monde," with its triple peaks, un-
obstructed by any object to dinunish
its height or its grandeur. In the
foreground is the Plateau of Sersou, an
ujjiand region, richly cultivated, and
well wooded, gradually sinking towanls
the E. into the barren jilain of the
Ilauts I'lalravx, bounded in the far
S. E. horizon by the mountain called
Sehiia Rous or Seven Heails, which
forms so conspicuous an object in the
view from Boghar. To the N. are the
various spurs descending to the valley
of the Chelif, the mountains that bound
the rt. bank of that river, Milianah and
Djebel Zakkar, and even Pjou-Zarea
above Algiers. Almost as fine a view-
is obtained from the extremity of the
forest, called Tcniet-cl-Guetran, with-
out the necessity of climbing so high.
Near the " Rond Point" is a chalj'-
beate spring, whose waters have bei'U
found very efficacious ; it yields 8000
litres per hour.
There is a very fine view of the foi-est
range from Bou-Zhouar, 4593 ft., the
conspicuous conical mountain N.W. of
the fort, and an equally fine one of the
valley of the Chelif from Bou-Sar, 4266
ft., the N. point of the range AV. of
Bou-Zhouai'.
The road to Tiaret has been com-
menced, but never completed.
About 25 m. south of Teniet, at the
point where the Tell ends and the High
Plateaux commence, is a district called
Sersou, rather uncertain in its extent,
abounding in prehistoric remains, such
as large flat blocks of stone, enceintes,
and tumuli, which are found on the
plain, on the slopes and summits of
the hills and in the valleys between
them. These are mentioned iu no
work of travels, as they are rather out
of the beaten track, but a preliminary
survey has been made of them by
Messrs. Letourneux and MacCarthy,
and it is to be hoped that a more care-
ful examination may soon be under-
taken. At Ava-Toukria, an immense
surface, about 700 acres, was entirely
covered with enceintes formed of walls
of rough stones and tumuli, and a con-
siderable number of interesting objects
were discovered belonging to the ancient
races who had inhabited the country.
Sect. II
ROUTE G. TIZI-ODZOU
143
ROUTE 6.
Algiers to Tizi-Ouzou and Fort
National.
The joiuney is iloiie \>y railway as
far as Tizi-Ouzou, and thence by
carriage or public conveyance. The
line was completed in June 1888.
Algiers to Menerville. See p. 155.
kil. kil.
. . MENERVILLE 53
7. Blad-GuiU)un .... 46
11. Les Isscrs 42
16. Bordj Meiiaiel . . . .37
28. Haussonvilleus .... "Jo
36. Caini)-du-Marechal . . .17
43. Mirabcau 10
53. Tizi-Ouzou
7 kil. (from Menerville) Blad-Gui-
touii, the "land of tents," a tliriving
village oil an elevated jiosition ; to the
N. of the road below it is a fine com-
munal plantation of eucalyptus and
Australian acacias.
11 kil. Lr.f Isscrs. This stream is
one of the largest in Algeria, having
a course of about 130 m. Close by is
the Souk el-Djemda or Lrs Issrrs (the
Market of Friday), a large caravan-
serai on the right bank of the river.
There is an Arab market every Friday,
as the name implies.
[Tiierc is an excellent road hence to
tlie iini)ortant village of Dra el-Mizan,
and an omnibus runs every day, pass-
ing thiough.
li kil. TssrrviUc, situated on the
brow of a hill, with a beautiful view
of tiie plain in every direction.
13 kil. Cliabct el-Ainrjtr. Wayside
inn. The pass from which the village
derives its name is at a little distance
to tiie E. The village it.self is 1^ kil.
to the W. of the road.
29 kil. Tizi Eeniff.
35 kil. Bou Faima.
39 kil. Dra el-Mizan. See p. 1.^.7.]
16 kil. Jinrdj Mnunrl, liurnt by the
insurgents in 1871 ; it is now a coni-
niuiic, witii .')7.') inhaliitants.
28 kil. HausBonvillers, formerly
caW^A Axih-Zii iiunui. liefore tlie insur-
rection of 1871 there were only n
caravanserai and a ftsw scattered houses
at this place ; these were burnt and
the caravanserai besieged for 23 days ;
thanks, however, to the loyal conduct
of the Aniin el-Omina, who himself
assisted to defeuel it, the building,
containing 32 Kuropeans, held out till
relieved by General Lallemand.
Now a flourishing village has been
createil under the auspices of the
Sociiti Protectrice Alsacknne Lorraiiu,
presided over by the Comte d'Hausson-
ville, occupied partly by families from
those provinces, and partly by tlis-
charged soldiers, natives of the .same,
who have finished their period of service
in the engineers, artillery and nnlitary
train, preference being given to such
as are sons of farmers.
The situation of this village is excep-
tionally good ; it is at the junction
of the roads to Dellys and Tizi-Ouzou.
Tiierc is an abundant water sujiply,
and the soil is exceedingly fertile ; :>i>\Q
hectares of land have been allotted to
its inhabitants.
After passing tliis point the line
enters the valley of the Sebaou, which
is par c:rcdh'nce the river of Kabylia,
an<l drains nearly the whole of tlie
Djurdjura range. It is called by
several names, according to the dis-
trict through which it flows, a.s is
customary all over .Algeria. It has a
bar at its mouth like nearly all Alge-
rian rivers, and I'annot be used either
for navigation or for floating timber, as
during the rainy season ami the melting
of the snows it is an impetuous torrent,
and in summer a mere thread of water.
36 kil. Camp-ilu-Mdn'rhnl, a small
village to the S. of road, when- was
formerly a Ka]>yle village called ]>rii-
brii-Ki'ilila.
On the opposite side of the river to
the N. is Bordj Schaou, the ruins of a
Turkish fort.
43 kil. Mirabrau, formerly Hoh
Guilfit, a villag<! created by M. Dcdfiis,
the well-known manufacturer of ,Miil-
housc, who rcmovctl all his establish-
ment to Kraiut? after the annexation of
Alsace and lAU-raine to (ierniany.
53 kil. Tizi Ouzou (the gorge of the
broom plant), Si:} ft. nbfive the sea.
It is the chief place of nii nrrondi.sse-
ment comprising tlit^ territories of
144
HOUTIO (). ALaiKllS TO TI/J-OUZOU, KTC.
A hjiria
13ellys, Dra-cl-Mizan and Fort National
adiiiiiiistcrcd by a sous-Prefet. 924
iiilial).
Tizi-Ouzoii, which was a flourishing
viUago of about 60 houses before the
insurrection of 1871, was tlien entirely
destroyed. It has lieen rebuilt on a
much hvrger scale, and more than 100
concessions have been given to natives
of Alsace and Lorraine and colonists
Irom France.
At a distance of several kil. are the
villages of Tamouda and Mekla, in-
habited by the Oulad ou Kasai, an
ancient family, which had supplied
several Bach-Aghas for the circle of
Tizi-Ouzou. The actual chief, Ali ou
iMohanimed ou Kasai, had exercised
the functions of Kaid up to the moment
when it had l)een su))pressed to make
room for the appointment of elected
Amins. He then retired into private
life, but his inlluence continued as great
as ever over his tribe. It was he who
took the lead in the insurrection in this
part of Kabylia. He plundered and
ilcstroyed the village and all the neigh-
bouring farms, cut off the supply of
water, and blockaded the fort from the
17th of April till the 11th of May.
He was joined by Ben Ali Cherif, who,
though he did not take any active part
in the siege, lent to it the prestige of
his name. Eighteen of the defenders
died during this time, and seventeen
were wounded.
The Kabyle and French villages are
still as they were, quite distinct ; to
the N. of the village stands the
Bordj, or fort, originally built by the
Turks on Roman foundations, and sub-
sequently enlarged and occupied by the
French in 1855.
For grandeur of scenery no part of
Algeria can compare with Kabylia, and
none of it is finer than the Kabylia of
Djurdj ura. The traveller is particularly
struck with the picturesque situation
of the villages which crown the heights
of the sharp spurs branching from the
main range. The white minaret of a
mosque usuallj' towers above a cluster
ol' red - tiled cottages. These have
neither chimneys nor windows, and are
built of mud and stones. The shape
of the village is generally long and
narrow, necessarily following the con-
liguration of the ground on which it is
l)uilt ; and partly owing to the neces-
sity, before the French conquest, for
easy defence, every village is a fortified
position, with the niosrpie as a citadel.
The amount of cultivable land in Kaby-
lia, also, is hardly more than suflicient
for the wants of its population, this is
another temptation to build their vil-
lages on the barren crests of the hills,
so as to utilise every spot availalde
for cultivation.
The door, the only aperture capable
of affording light or air, is so low as to
compel a man of average height to stoop
on entering, and is placed in the middle
of one of the longest sides ; the single
room is divided into two unequal por-
tions by a low parapet wall, part being
the sleeping-room of the family, and
the smaller portion being devoted to
their cattle. The partition serves as a
shelf on which to ))lace jars of dried
fruit, flour, etc., and above the stable
is a loft for fodder. A small hole at
the farthest corner serves as the family
cooking-place.
Under these circumstances, it is
wonderful that they can preserve life
at all ; the stench of the stable, the
smoke of the kitchen, the want of a
proper supply of air and light, are con-
ditions which set all hygienic laws at
defiance, and doubtless give rise to
much avoidable sickness and death.
In every village there is a building,
the Djcmiia, which supplies the place
of a club in more civilised states of
society. It is usually placed at the
entrance, and consists of a large hall
with stone benches round the sides ;
here the men come to take their
siesta, to discuss the affairs of the
village, the latest political news, or
the scandal of the day. The villages
are generally Qlthy in the extreme,
and reeking with foul odours of every
kind, accumulating from generation to
generation. One never enters a Kabyle
village without a feeling of regi-et that
they cannot adopt the migi-ator}' habits
of the Arabs, and remove sometimes to
"fresh fields and pastures new."
The Kabyles are exceedingly indus-
trious, and frequently amass consider-
Sect. II
ROUTE 6. FORT NATIONAL
145
able property. They are very jealous
of their wives ; and, if report lies not,
tlie latter have been known to give
occasion for the feeling.
[A road lias been commenced from
this place to Bougie ; it bifurcates
about 3 kil. from Tizi-Ouzou, and fol-
lows tlie right liank of the river Sebaou.
4 kil. The road crosses, by a bridge,
the picturesque gorge of the Sebaou.
21 kil. Tiiiiuhi, a new village of 25
liouses built on land once tlie property
of Oulad ou Kasai, sequestered after
tlie insurrection,
2-3^ kil. Tiie road to the new French
village of Mekla turns olf to the right
and crosses the Sebaou by a large
bridge. Ou the left bank of the river
may be seen the ruins of the Kabyle
village of Mekla, destroyed during the
insurrection.
28 kil. Tald. Mi-rb. Here, near a
fountain and a cluni)) of orange trees,
the inhabitants of old Mekla were
located when their village was de-
stroyed. On the left of the road, at
a distance of 2i hours, in the hills, is
the village of Mini, where one of the
new Franco- Kabyle schools has been
established.
37 kil. Azaz(ja, a jirosperous village
of 30 homesteads, residence of the ad-
ministrator of the district, in a country
well adapted for vines, and abound-
ing in olive trees. There is a small
auberge where a traveller can sleep in
tolerable comfort. The road to Bougie
has not yet been completed much be-
yond this point.]
From Tizi-Ouzou the ascent must be
made by carriage.
110 kil. from Algiers. The road
crosses the Oiced Ainai, an alHuent of
the Sebaou, and frequently inii)a.ssable
after heavy rains.
The distance from Tizi-Ouzou to
l'"ort National is about 17 m. The
military road between the two jilaces
was made by 30,000 French soldiers
in a remarkably .short space of time,
and is one of the most beautiful in
Algeria. It leads at first over green
cultivated liills and valleys ; but as
Fort National is ajtproached, and tlie
{^AUjcria.']
Djurdjura range entered, the .scenery
becomes exceedingly grand and strik-
ing. .Many sjmrs of the Djurdjura are
crossed, as the road winds up the
niountaiiis ; till, in about four hours
after leaving Tizi-Ouzou, the Fort is
reached, which was seen an hour pre-
viously as a white speck high up on
the mountain side.
131 kil. Fort National, formerly
called Fort Napoleon ; in Arabic "Souk-
el-Arba," meaning the market of Wed-
nesday. 3153 ft. above the sea. 262
inhab.
This jdace is situated almost in the
very centre of Kabylia, and is in reality
a walled and fortified town, rather than
a fort. The walls are about 14 ft. high,
and entrance is gained by the gates of
Tizi-Ouzou and of Djurdjura.
In the insurrection of 1871, the gar-
rison supported with courage and en-
durance a siege of 63 days ; it was
finally relieved by General Lalkinand
about the middle of June.
The actual citadel is placed on the
highest ])oint, and commands tlie rest
of the fort. It was built after the in-
.surrection of 1871, and contains ad-
mirably built barracks, the arsenal and
other subsidiary military establish-
ments. Water is brought from some
distance by means of an aqueduct,
which fills a central reservoir, whence
it is distributed to the various build-
ings. Fniit trees are much cultivated
outside, and a kitchen garden for vege-
tables is kejit up by the soldiers.
The fort was built by tlie French in
the year 1857, after a long and sanguin-
ary struggle with the tribes of tlic
A'if-Inilcii, who were the original in-
habitants of this district. The first
stone was laid by Marshal Kandon on
14th June 1857, and five months after-
wanls it was completed.
There are very few villages in Ka-
bylia situated at a greater elevation
than Fort National ; the highest of jvll
in AU-bou-yo(isiif, 3870 ft. above the
sea.
Tlie view from Fort National is
magnificent. Towards the S. is tiie
splendid mass of the Djunljura, fre-
(piently ca]iped with snow ; and in the
opposite direction lies the valley of the
L
140
llOUTE G. ALGIERS TO TIZI-OU/OU, ETC.
Ahjeria
Subaou, l)pyoii(l wliifli aro ranges of
low woodej hills bounded in tliu dis-
tance by the sea.
'J'he liighest part of the Djurdjura
chain is Tnm<iout LdUa Kliadlilja, the
peak of the Lady Khadidja, 7512 ft.
aliove the .sea. It is usually covered
with snow from November till May,
when it is quite inaccessible, but dur-
ing summer a laden mule can cross it
without much difficulty. The crest is
entirely barren, save here and there,
where a group of cedars have been able
to find soil enough in which to take
root ; but in the valleys and lowii' spurs
line rich pasturage springs up after the
melting of the snow.
[Excursions from Fort NationaJ.
1. The villages of the Beni Yenni.
This may be made on foot or by mule
in a day, returning to sleep at Fort
National. Follow the carriage road
beyond the fort as far as kil. 7. There
a steep jjatli descends to the right,
crossing the Oucd Djenuia, and mount-
ing to the villages of the Beni Yenni,
M'liich are situated along the crest of
the mountains, and are conspicuous by
the presence among them of one of the
Franco-Kabyle schools. They are four
in number — AU-d-Ahsan, AU-cl-Arhda,
Taonrirt Maiinon, and Taourirt-cl-
Hadj.
This tribe is celebrated for the manu-
facture of that Kabyle jewellery so much
prized by strangers. It used invari-
ably to be made of silver, but of late
years base metal has been substituted.
Kabyle jewellers ha\'e never worked in
gold. Two descriptions are usually
made, one enamelled and the other
plain, or only ornamented by the ad-
mixture of small pieces of coral.
Another interesting Kabyle industry
is the manufacture of pottery. This is
alwaj's made by the women, and as
sirch a thing as a potter's wheel is un-
known, each separate piece is moulded
liy band and in the most grotesque
possible manner. Still great taste is
sometimes shown, and the forms in
daily use are no doubt the tradition
of Roman and Punic art. Two colours
onlj- are used iu decorating them — red
ochre and Ijlack ]ieroxi<le of manganese,
which both retain their colours after
baking. A vegetable varnish is then
rubbed in to give lustre to the. vessel.
The intricacy and diversity of design
are really astonishing, and each vill.age
has its distinctive type.
They also make arms of various kinds,
and folding book-stands cut out of a
single piece of wood, sometimes inlaid
with tin, and tastefully carved.
2. The traveller should not fail to
visit the village of Icherridhen, the
road to which used to pass over the
ridge of a scarped isthmus, beyond
which was the village surrounded by
gardens. This configuration of ground
made it a formidable military position.
During the first expedition against
Kabylia, in June 1857, the Kabyles,
who had covered the slopes of the hill
with intrenchmeuts, held it for several
hours on the 24th against all the attacks
of the French troops. The division of
General de MacMahon tried in vain to
take it by assault ; Bourbaki was
wounded there at the head of his
Zouaves ; and the issue of the affair
was getting serious, when the 2d foreign
regiment rushed up the steep slopes on
the left of the Kabyle position with
singular intrepidity, and took it in
reverse.
During the insurrection of 1871,
Generals Lallemand and Ceres, after
having relieved Fort National, found
the Kabyle forces intrenched at Icher-
ridhen in a more formidable manner
than before; but this time its defenders
had to contend against the French
chassepots and mitrailleuses, and being
attacked on both flanks they had to-
disperse without being able to carry oS
their numerous dead, which they had
laden on mules.
3. To the N. of Fort National an
excursion may be made to Djamaat-es-
Saharidj. The most picturesque road
passes by Thi-Eachcd, where there is
one of the Franco-Kabyle schools, and
thence to the French village of Mckla,
where the traveller can sleeji at a fairly
comfortable auberge. The Kabyle vil-
lage of Djamdcd-cs-Salutridj , or market
Sect. II
ROUTE U. AIN-KL-HAMMAM
147
of Friday and of the ifsorvoiis, derives
its name from the weekly market lield
liere, and from two old Roman reser-
voirs \inder a line spring in the centre
of the village. This was the Roman
L'iila Coloaia, and vestiges of Roman
masonry, pavements, columns, etc., are
seen in every direction. It is an ex-
tremely salubrious and heautil'ul spot,
recalling .some of the linest villagers of
Mount Lebanon. For this reason it
has been selected for one of the Fi'anco-
Kabyle schools, which arc likely to
jiroduce much good in the mountains.
There is also an establishment directc<l
by the I'ere Hhincs (see p. 110) and an
English Protestant mission. The neigh-
bouring village of Mekla may be reached
by carriage from Tizi-Ouzou, from which
it is 20 kil. distant.
4. In fine weather, and when there
is no snow on Ujurdjura, the traveller
can cross from Fort National by the
Col de Tirourda or the Col de Chellata
to tin; Oiicd-cs-Sahel. Tlir l.ltt.T VnwU-
is (htsrribfd at pp. 21), 24;".. The
former journey can be done in one day
by driving along the liigh road as fai-
as the Maisun (Jantonitix, 29 kil., and
there having mules in readiness to
jn-oceed to Maillot or lieni-Mansour.
The carriage road runs at a short
distance from the summit of the largest
counterfort of the Djurdjura range,
■which is everywhere dottetl over with
villages of the great tribe of Zouaoua,
one of the most warlike in Kabylia,
whence the modern French word
Zouave is derived. The native militia
in the service of Algiers, Tunis, and
Tripoli, were called Zouaoua, as at lirst
noiK! l)ut members of this warlike tribe
of Kabyles were enrolled, subse([uently
their ranks were opened to all Kabyles
and Arabs indiscriminately, and the
French adoi)ted a corrupted form of the
same word for their celebrated African
regiments.
On the right are the villages of
Taourirt Tcidili (Mamelon de la
Chienne), Taourirt Amran, and
Agoumi-n-Tcscllcnd (the plateau of
the ash tree), conspicuous by tlu'ir
square minarets ; on the left is the
great market of Sell Beni VaJiia, where
CJeneral Randou stopped during the
campaign of 1854. Also to the left, on
a spur with scarped sides, is the village
of Kuukou, the ancient capital of a
kingdom mentioned as a powerful one
by Marmol in the IGth century, and of
which a few unimportant ruins are all
that now remain of its ancient splen-
<lour. Recently a uumljer of cannon
were found there, one of which is a
breerhloader.
At 21 kil. from the Fort is Ainel-
Hanmiam, the chief place of the Com-
mune Mixte of Djurdjura, and the
residence of the Administrator. This
is one of the largest and richest com-
munes in Algeria, and the only one
without a single French village. It
has a population of 65,000 inhabitants,
and an annual budget of 200,000 f.
There is a small auberge where food
may be obtained.
The road reaches Djurdjura by the
Col of Tizi-n-Djuma, overhung by
inimcnso limestone rocks (azrrou), and
then rises to the turfy Col of Tiruurdn,
tlii-ough a valley where, in 1857, the
renialc Marabout of Houmcur, Lalla
Fatiinak, took refuge. Her capture
hastened the submission of Kabylia.
The descent from the spot where the
carriage is left to Maillot or Bcni-Man-
sour, on the high road between Algiers
and Constantine, occupies about 8 hours,
the only village pas.sed is the Kabyle
one of Ta-kcrbooth, where nothing is
obtainable. The scenery is extremely
grand throughout, especially in early
summer, when the ground is carpeted
with wild flowers.]
ROUTK 7.
Algiers to El-Aghouat, through the
Gorge of the Chiffa, Medeah, and
Boghari.
This is a most jiicturesipie ami in-
teresting journey. Many of the views,
such as that of the high peaks of the
Atlas from Mt. Nador ; of the valleys
of Medeaii and the Clielif from tiie
Dakla ; of the upiK-r valley of tlie Isscr,
with Djurdjura in the distance, from Hen
I 18
HOUTK 7. AIXilERS TO KIj-AOIIOUAT
A hjcrio.
Cliiciio ; of tlic lliiuts riateaux from
JJoifliar ; of tlu; Saluira from El-Aghouat,
ai'o lianlly to lie Hurpassecl
Moreover, on no otlier route can the
pliysical f^eography of Algeria he so
well stiitlied, or the rehitions of tlie
Tell, the Hauls Platc^aux, and the
Sahara to each other be so well under-
stood ; while the oasis of El-Aghouat,
and the glimpses of desert life and
manners to be obtained in and near it,
would alone amply repay the troul)le
and expense of the expedition. But it
is far more fatiguing than the journey
to Biskra, and should on no account be
attempted by persons in weak health,
or by those who are not well inured to
laborious travelling. The amount of
expense is excessive, the roads bad, the
diligences dilapidated, inconvenient,
badly horsed vehicles, and the accom-
modation rough, but the caravanserais
are managed by obliging people ; the
beds are clean, and the food remarkably
good and plentiful.
Two or more travellers who are not
pressed for time would do well to take
a carriage, which can be hired at Bli-
dah or JMedeah for from 400 f. to 500 f.
for the journey to El-Aghouat and
back. They will then be able to stop
when and where they please, and to
start at their own hour. By the dili-
gence time is vexatiously wasted, and
the endurance of the passengers taxed
to no purpose.
We advise those who undertake this
journey to divest themselves as far as
possible of all preconceived notions
about the desert, as otherwise they
may be disappointed (see p. 17).
50 kil. Blidah. See Rte. 10. p. 166.
The road leaves Blidah by the gate
Bab-es-Sebt, and runs parallel to the
railway, through the plain of the
Metidja, for about 4 miles, as far as
the wide and almost waterless bed of
the river Chiffa, which is here crossed
by an iron bridge. The small village
of Chiffa, seen on the right, was almost
destroyed by an earthquake in 1867.
The traveller may proceed so far by
raihva}-, and there meet the diligence.
A short distance beyond the bridge the
road divides, that to Milianah and
Cherchel continuing straight on through
the plain, while that to Meileah and
El-Aghouat turns to the left, and 2 miles
farther on reaches the
GO kil. Gorge of the Chiffa, a tremen-
dous rent in the mountains extending
for a distance of 10 7n., through which
Hows the small river Chilfa. The peak
seen on the right, before entering the
Gorge, is Djebel Mouzaia, 5350 ft. The
view looking back over the plain and dis-
tant hills is extremely beautiful. The
sides of the Gorge are completely clothed
with luxuriant vegetation, reaching to
the summit of the surrounding moun-
tains, save where in places the road is
overshadowed by sheer jirecipices many
hundred ft. in lieight, down the faces
of which numberless small streams fall
in showers of s])ray. The road itself is
a wonderful piece of engineering, being
blasted out of the solid rock for almost
the entire distance, in some places
carried high up the face of the cliff,
and in others built out in the actual
bed of the stream. It was executed by
French military engineers, and was
only completed in 1855, previous to
which there was no direct route be-
tween Blidah and Medeah. The tra-
veller who expects to find scenerj'
ei|ualling that of Switzerland or Italy
will probably be disappointed. The
Gorge of the Chiffa can better be com-
pared to the Scotch or Welsh passes
than to those of Switzerland ; as snow
mountains and glaciers, the most strik-
ing features in Swiss scenerj', are here
entirely wanting. The scenery has
been much destroyed by the work of the
railway to Medeah, which passes through
the Gorge.
64 kil. A small Inn at the Ruisseau
dcs Siiiges, where the diligences stop
for a short time, and where refresh-
ment and beds may be procured. The
Ruisseau des Singes is a picturesque
stream tumbling down a steep gorge
on the left bank of the Chiffa. Behind
the inn a steep path leads up to a
garden, where an abortive attempt
was made to cultivate tea, coffee,
cinchona, and other exotic plants of
economic value. The vegetation is
rich and beautiful, and ferns and
lycopodiums grow in great profusion,
Sect. II
MKDEAH
149
niinf^led witli olive, bay, lentisk,
juniper and tree -heath. Apes are
frefjuently to be seen, sometimes in
great numbers.
A few liundreil yards lower down
the valley, on the opposite side of the
road, or rather in the face of the clifT
which supports the road, is a beautiful
stalactitic cave : the key of the door is
kept at the auberge.
()8 kil. The stream bends to W. dose
under Djebel llouzaia, the road crosses
it, and follows the right bank.
69 kil. Hotel des Voyagcurs, or Camp
dcs Vlo'iics. Here the Gorge of the
Chiffa may be said to end.
72 kil. The road again cro.sses to the
left ; here the stream divides, the road
follows the right stream.
74 kil. Road to Mouza'ia les Mines
(7 kil.) turns off.
76 kil. Auberge du Nculor, or la Ccm-
ccssion. From tliis, looking back, there
is a fine view of L>j. Mouza'ia. Here
the old road to Medeah, steep but short,
turns off.
From this point the road is carried
by a series of gradients up the northern
Hank of the sandstone ridge of Nador.
At first it follows the course of a stream
called the Ruisseav, des deux Fonts.
There is a good deal of cultivation, and
the views of the upper course of the
Chiffa are extremely beautiful.
81 kil. Auberge dcs deux rants.
87 kil. Arab village and cemeteiy,
with a verv fine view.
90 kil. Medeah. 1 4857 inhab. 3018
ft. above the sea.
iledeah is supposed to stand on the
site of the Roman town Mcdicv or Ad
medias, so called because it is situated
half way between Bcrouagia {Tanara-
musa Castra) and Amoura (Su/asar).
Under the Turkish Government it was
the capital of the Beylick of Titeri,
which comprised all tenitory under
Turkish rule outside of Algiers.
The last Bey, Bou Mezrag, offered
his services to the French immediately
after the capture of Algiers ; but shortly
1 A railway from the main lino at the Chiffa,
to Medeah and BiTouaKia, is (1S89) in course of
constniction, but as the works arc of a very
ditllcult nature, it will not be completed for
several years.
afterwards he betrayed his trust, and
General Clauzel proceeded to Medeah
to instal a new one of his own selection,
Mustafa ben Omar ; the old Bey was
interred at Blidah. His son, however,
obtained permission to rejoin the rest
of the family, and immediately com-
menced to rally the most inlluential
Arabs of the Beylick around hini, and
against the nominee of the Frencli
authorities. To support the latter.
Gen. Berthezene proceeded to Medeah
in June 1831, at the head of 4500 men.
The son of Bou ^lezrng fled south-
wards, and was pursued by the French
as far as the plateau of Ainiarnt, burn-
ing the harvest and cutting down the
trees on their route. On tlieir return
to Medeah, Ben Omar represented that
after such conduct it would lie inijios-
sible for him to remain without a mili-
tary force for his protection. This the
general refused to leave, and the Bey
quitted the city with the French
troops.
Medeah, thus left to itself, submitted,
first to the Bey of Constantine, subse-
(piently to Abd-el-Kader, and finally to
the Due d'Aumale in 1840, who shortly
afterwards was appointed commandant
of it.
Medeah, finely situated on a plateau
3070 ft. above the level of the sea, is
surrounded by a wall pierced by five
gates, which was rebuilt by the French
after the siege. The town is entirely
French in character, and has nothing
of particular interest to attract the
stranger.
The principal buildings are the Bar-
racks, capable of accommodating l.'>00
men ; the military Hospital, containing
500 beds ; and the Christian and the
Mohammedan schools. There were for-
merly six mosques in Medeah, but now
onlyone remains for its original purjiose.
The finest of them has been turned into
a Roman Catholic church. To the E.
of the town is an ancient Aqueduct,
consi-sting of two tiers of arches, of whi<;h
the lower are i)artly filled up, while the
upi>er ones are left ojien, built into the
wall of the town by the French. Tlie
water was conveyed" in it from Djebel
Nador. The present supply is derived
from the same hills, but from a source
mo
HOUTK 7. ALOIKRH TO i:y,-A(iHOTJAT
Alfjeria
farllicr W. The date of tlie aqueduct
is unknown.
The climate of Mcdcah, owinj^ to its
great elevation, is temperate and
healthy. Th<! vef,'ctation is rather
Eurojiean than African, — apples, pears,
gooseberries, currants, etc., growing in
great perfection.
[Environs of Mecleah.
A pleasant walk is to the Pilon du
Dal-la. The view is indescribably
beautiful, the country gi-een, and well
cultivated. There are some curious
piles of sandstone blocks on the spur of
Nador, which overlooks the valley of
Medeah ; they are said to be Roman,
but are probably later. Near them is
the foundation of a circular structure of
a different age.
Mouzala les Mines, now called Villc
les Mines, after the late Monsieur Ville,
Inspector-General of Mines, situated in
the plain W. oiDakla, under the ridges
of the last spur of Dj. Mouzala. The
copper mines are in the mountain
behind the village. There is a road
from it to that passing up the Chiffa
valley.
Lodi, through which the road to Ville
les Mines passes, is a thriving village,
much given to the cultivation of the
vine ; but the whole country is very
rich and well cultivated.]
The road leaves Medeah W. and fol-
lows the mountains, which sweep in a
grand curve in a S. E. direction, round
the head of the valley into which the
]ilatcau of Medeah projects. These
mountains are remarkable for the total
aVisence of all trees or scrub, or indeed
any vegetation except short grass.
100 Idl. Glimpses of the valley of
the Oucd Ouzcra {Chiffa).
108 kil. Auberge, called Auhcrge
du 108 kil.
112 kil. £rn Chicao, 3354 ft. above
the sea, large caravanserai, built 1858 ;
also an Auberge du roulagc, where the
food is excellent and cheap. The dili-
gence stops here on its return jounu'v
for breakfast.
For the next 7 kil. the road descends
through fine woods of evergreen oak
and cork trees, some of which are of
gifv'it age and size, also juniper, and
Aleppo pines.
118 kil. Descend into the Oiied el-
Hammam, the upper valley of the
Isser, which is richly cultivated with
corn, and forms a striking contrast to
the mountains just passed.
120 kil. Picturesque Arab village
and cemetery on right.
In the middle of this valley is the
thriving village of
121 kil. Berotuigia (394 inhab.),
created in 1860, and made a commune
in 1869. At a few kil. to the E. are
some thermal springs, acidulated and
ferruginous. On the left of the road
are the remains of the Eoman station
Tanaramusa CaMra, on the road from
Auzia {Auviale) to Rubrae {Iladjar er-
Roiim), near Tlem(jen ; it is here that
the road to the first place still branches
off; it is quite practicable for mules.
About 1000 prisoners are located here ;
they used to be let out to colonists, but
this was found inconvenient, and they
are now utilised in planting vines ; they
inhabit the old smala, and 400 hectares
of land are appropriated for the use of
this establishment. After passing this
village the road ascends the hills which
separate the valley of the Oued el-
Hammam from that of the Cliclif.
133 kil. Iwa.oi Ain-Mahlouf ; lodging
may be had ; good food. Diligence
stops for breakfast.
140 kil. The road descends by a series
of rapid curves, and crosses the broken
gullies that occupy the right bank
of one of the affluents of the Chelif.
The groups of Aleppo pines are splen-
did ; cultivation plentiful where practi-
cable.
145 kil. Inn of A'in-Moudjarar, or
le Camp des Zouaves, a detachment of
which cori>s was formerly emploj'ed in
making the road here.
1 55 kil. Road disengages itself finally
from the hills, enters the gi-een valley
of the Chelif, bare of trees, and crosses
157 kil., the Oued Hakoum, by a
bridge close to a substantial farm called
OucdBouliciw ; near the Oued Hakoum
is Ain-Moudjebar, a large smala where
Sect. II
ROUTE
151
Spahis were quartcied before the insur-
rection of 1871.
After this the road passes along the
right bank of tlic Cliclif to
166 kii. Boghari, more correctly
Lokhari, on right bank. 1020 inhab.
The water h^i'c is inipreiinaled witli
suli)hate of magnesia, and is slightly
purgative. The market held on Mon-
days is important.
The Arab town stands on a spur of
the hill facing the S.W. ; below are
tlie hotels, school, telegraph - ollice,
pharmacy, gendarmerie, etc.
The view of the opposite heights of
Bo(jluir is extremely fine. Boghari is
a grand (lep6t for articles of Arab
manufacture, burnouses, embroidered
leather, etc., and of the trade generally,
between the Tell and the Sahara ; ex-
cellent lain Manrc.
Between Boghari and Boghar, the
military station, the valley is very
narrow, but it soon expands towards
tlie S., and is shut in l)y low ridgfs
of limestone, furrowed deeply, as if by
streams or lieavy rains. The Chelif
winds below it in a bed .50 ft. below
the surface, worn through the samly
.soil. Beyond the boundary hills is
the first stepjje of the High Plateaux,
a vast level waste of a dull brown
colour. It is bounded to the S. by a
range of low mountains, amongst which
7 sugar- loafed peaks — Sebua-lious, in
Arabic — are prominent.
Boghar was chosen by Al>d-el-Kader
as a suitable place for a military estab-
lishment ; and Berkani, his Caliph,
founded a large fort, which was de-
stroyed in 1840 by the Frencli, who
definitely occupied the place in 1841.
It stands at an elevation of 2940 ft.
above the sea level, on the side of a
mountain ; and is divided into two
distinct parts, consisting of the Fort,
which encloses all the military build-
ings, and the village, which is situated
below the Fort, on tlie road to Boghari.
There are some pretty gardens under
the cliir, watered by numerous sjirings,
which gush out from beneath the rocks.
Outside the Fort is a forest of junipeis
and pines.
17.'> kil. yiiv -Solin. After b'aving
Boghari the road traverses the jiluin
of the Chelif, and then engages itself
amongst the hills that appear once to
have formed a basin to tliat river, but
through which it has broken. The
road made in 1808 is excellent, metalled
and kei>t in order by regular can-
tonniers.
184 kil. A very line view of the first
steppe of the lligh Plateaux lying
s|)read out beneath. A gentlo descent
leads to
185 kil. Hon - Ghazmd (Father of
Gazelles), caravanserai, excellent ac-
commodation, situated in a plain of
dry soil, witli a few i)atches of grass
among wide patches of sand. A good
deal of corn is grown in favourable
seasons. In spring the ground is
l)eautifullv carpeted with wild flowei-s.
The traveller is jiretty sure to see fine
examides of mirage between Bou-
Ghazoul and Ain-Uussera.
After leaving 15ou-Ghazoul the road
is very bad in some places.
222 kil. Caravanserai of Ahi-Ous-
fiern, poor accommodation. It stands
on a slight enunence, with a scanty
spring close to it, and a few stuntetl
trees. Beyond this the ground is
covered with alfa as far as the eyo
can reach in all directions.
241 kil. Bou-Cafniifi, an assemblage
of huts used for the collection of alpha.
262 kil. GueH-cs.StcI, a fairly com-
fortable caravanserai, built by Marshal
Randon in 18.')3. No water save such
as is stored in a cistern. Leaving this
the road leads up the valley by a con-
tinuous ascent ; then, rounding the
hills to the left, it enters a jilain which
may be said to foiin the second steppe
of the High Plateaux. For the first
few miles the ro.ad is very marshy ; to
this succeeds a vast jdain of .sand,
covered with scanty vegetation. Be-
tween this and the next cai-avanserai,
the road ]>asses between the two largo
shallow salt lakes called S'hklia Znhnz;
tlie larger one, that to the^E. of the
road, is about 2.'» m. long by 10
broad. It is a curious fact, tiiat some
s]irings of jxrfectly fresh water rise
witliin the circumference of these .salt
lakes.
288 kil. El-Mis'iiin, cnravousi-rni <Ih
ir,2
ROUTK 7. ALOTERS TO EL-AOHOUAT
Alffcria
/tunc de sdhln. The water lierc is too
iiiiich iin]nc;;iiated witli magnesia for
(hiiikinj,' juirposos. It is close to one
of the Largest of tlie dunes on which
there is a scanty vegetation of tamarisk
and broom. Thence tlie road descends,
jiasses a laige Arab cemetery with two
icDuljbas, firils the Oitcd-Mcluh (salt
river), and ascends the opposite hill, on
which is
.'302 kil. The caravanserai of the
J[adjar-cl-Mdith, or llochcr de Set ;
also a very nice inn lower down, in a
ganlen of poplars, willows, canes, ct(;.
At the foi-mer there are no conveniences
for lodging or obtaining a meal. At the
latter the diligence stops one hour for
breakfast, so that by providing him-
self with food, and eating it in the
carriage, the traveller can leave the
vehicle at the rock, and take a hasty
survey of it. The Rocher de Sel is a
jagged bare mass of hills, without a
trace of vegetation. The stream is
perfectly sweet before reaching it,
but soon becomes impregnated with
salt. The diameter of the salt rocks
is about half a mile ; they are covered
with a debris of blue slaty clay
fragments of limestone, and crystals
of gypsum. The fragments of stone
upon the mountain present a re-
markable variety of colours, includ-
ing red, yellow, orange, green, black,
violet, etc. ; small particles of iron
pyrites are also common. The per-
colation of water through this has
formed deep circular holes, the sides
of which are hone3'combed, and lined
with glittering stalactites of salt. The
traveller should be cautious in ascend-
ing the rock, as the edges of the pits
are generally steep, and the pits them-
selves often of considerable depth.
The cliffs and pinnacles of salt are
most picturesque when seen from the
stream, but the structure of the mass
is best seen on the opposite side, where
it has been quarried by the Arabs.
On all sides trickle forth small streams,
the banks of which are covered with
crystals, which sometimes even arch
over the water. This is one of the
hve mountains of salt mentioned by
Herodotus as existing in the interior
of Lylna.
From this point the country alters ;
as the road ascends the Jjjelel >:>en-el-lebba
the spurs of the mountain are covered
with alfa, and there is little wood to be
seen except on the heights, where there
are oaks and pines.
318 kil. AiH-Ouerrou, a small au-
berge, with a fountain and garden.
Soon a largo Government mill is passed
on the left, to turn which the water is
dammed. Hereabouts the sandstone
rocks are a curious conglomeration of
petrified straw, stalks of plants, and
other vegetable ]>roductions.
329 kil. Djelfa. Hotel de France
and Hotel du Sud ; good. The town,
which is 3792 ft. above the sea level,
stands under the highest Col of Djcbcl
Sen-cl-lebba (the lion's tooth), the wood-
crowned ridges of which are seen high
on the right. The town con.sists of two
streets at right angles to each other,
planted with trees, and has a very neat
appearance. Many Roman remains have
been found here. At about 6 kil. N.
of the village, close to a mill called
MouUii Ilandon or Moulin Mcin, there
is a very large necropolis of megalithic
tombs. In the neighbourhood is the
great forest of Tadmitz, where there is
a post of Spahis. On account of the
height and expcsed position of Djelfa,
it is subject to the greatest extremes of
temperature, intense heat in summer
and great cold in winter.
352 kil. Oucd Scdeur. The traveller
can spend the night very comfortably
here and procure good food.
BG7h kil. Ain-el-Ibcl (Fountain of
the Camel). Caravanserai badly kept.
The neighbouring Hotel du Roulage
excellent. Hereabouts was found the
rat a trompe, a rat with long
hind legs and a snout, of which
Canon Tristram tells the amusing
story : ' ' When the species was first
discovered, General Vaillant offered
rewards to his soldiers for specimens,
and was promptly supplied with other
desert rats, to the end of whose noses
]iieees of their comrades' tails had been
ingeniously artixed. Some of the speci-
mens were actually sent to Paris before
the trick was discovered." Horned
vipers also are common amongst the
tufts of alfa. Their bite is fatal.
Srrt. TI
ROUTE 7. EI,-AfiHOUAT
ir.:i
This is the only venomous snake in
Alf^eria.
The road beyond this lies across a
]ilain of alluvial deposit, capable of
L,Mo\viii.t( an unlimited sup[ily of cereals,
but little cultivated.
387i kil. A ruined inn close to where
tlie Mokla-el-Onst is crossed by a stone
bridge of two arches.
399 kil. Caravanserai of Sidi Mak-
lovf, from which there is a very
bciiutiful view ; there are remark-
able beach lines along the ridges to
tlie left. The caravanserai is fairly
good, and stands picturesquely on a
bare shelf of rock, with a steep clilf to
the S., beneath which is a well-culti-
vated garden. There is also a little inn
farther down, where the horses are fed.
Near the former is the koubba of Sidi
Maklouf, with a group of palms near it.
Thence the road crosses a bridge, and
then winds over numerous ridges, and
descends into the bed of many a dry
watercourse. The road now lies to the
left of Djchcl Zrhccha, at the foot of
which is a lake, dry in summer.
424 kil. Met I Hi. A small and jraor-
looking caravanserai, with accommoda-
tion for six jjcrsons.
Presently an opening is seen in a
range to the right, and beyond it an
isolated hill of a remarkable shape, called
Ic Chapcau du Geiufarmc. Thence,
after tiaversing a jdain of loose sand,
a small auberge is reached. Soon vege-
tation begins to appear ; the dark i)alms
open out, beyond which some of the
liuildings of El-Aghouat become visible.
The vieux camp is passed on the right,
and then, ])assi7ig down a long straight
I'oad l)etween high mu<l walls, the city
is entered by the I'orte d'Alger.
44H kil. El-Aghouat. Situated in
latitude 33° bS' N. I'o]). 4304, exclu-
sive of a garrison of l.'tOO men.
El-Aghouat was taken by storm 4th
Dec. 1852, by General relissic-r, after a
severe combat, in which more than
'2000 of the natives perished. In this
battle Generals Housearin and Morand
Were mortally wounded.
IClAghouat is a very ancient city ; it
formerl}' Ixdonged to Morocco, by whom
it was ceded to the Turks abo\it the end
of the 17th centur}' ; it changed hands
freipiently, being somotimes governed
by tlie Beys of Titeri, and sometimes
liy tiiose of Oran, l)Ut tlie real pnver
always remained in tlie hands of a
Djemiia or council, juesided over by one
of the local Marabouts.
It is 2437 ft. above the .sea level,
and lias, in conseijueiice, a climate
nearly as cold a.s Djelfa. In fact, it is
always cold in winter, wlien it fre-
quently rains, and .sometimes snows.
The summers are much less oppre.ssivc
than at the lower oases, such as Biskra.
The town lies between two summits of
a limestone ridge, bemling N.K. ami
S.W. ; the heigiit to the N.E. is
crowned by a barrack and the koubba,
that of Sidi Maklouf; tlie height to
the S.W. by the koubba of Si el-Hadj
Aissa, also the military hospital, pow-
der magazine, etc.
The latter saint was distinguished
alike for his virtues and for the gift
of prophecy which he is said to have
possessed. In the year 1714 he fore-
told that the Freneii siiould take Al-
giers, that tiiey should encamp under
the walls of El-Agiiouat, and that tliey
should even extend their jiowiT as far
as the Oued e!-Ahmar. This document
was actually in the hands of General
Miuey, and one of the descendants of
the Marabout reciteil it to that General
sliortly after the siege. On a lower
eminence between these two is the new
mos([ue.
The palm gardens, containing 21,000
date trees, extend in a curved line from
near the j)oint where the supply of
water begins, from the Oued l3jidi {la
prise d'cau), broadening as it goes up
to the town, and again on the otlier
side they stretch into the desert. At
their S. E. corner is the Arab cemetery;
there is another Arab cemetery, in a
wild situation, on tlie S. E. of the town,
in the desert, about" half a mile from
the gate ; near this is the Catholic
cemetery. The military establisiimeiit.s
are outside the town to the N.W. ;
farther to the north is /«• virux camp,
which deserves a visit in detail ; the
whole was constructed at ditlVn-nt
times by the men themselves. 'I'hr
origin of the name Jiitr/nr di-.i r/(iV«,<
is its follows : When El-Aghouut was
mi
ROTITK 7. ALOIKHS TO KI,-A(JHOUAT
A If/eria
tMkcii by Iho Frriuh, a coiisidcriihlc
imiiilxa- of Arab lioiisos wore mined,
and many of tlu; inliabitaiits killed ;
their doi,'s, to the ininiber of 200, took
refn;,'e on this hill, whence^ they de-
srended at night on predatory ex-
(Uirsions ; finally, it was found neees-
sary to liave them destroyed by the
soldiers.
In the centre of the town is the Place
Random, wliere is the residence of
the general, the military cercle, with
a lieantiful garden, the Bureau Arabe,
liost-ofl'iee, etc. There is an excellent
haiii Maure. The modern French town,
with its fortifications, has been con-
structed with reckless disregard of tlie
Arab houses and gardens. There are
several dependent oases near El-Agh-
ouat ; one of these is M-Assafia, 10
kil. N.E., the houses of which are
built of stone, held together by mud.
It has a stream rising suddenly out of
the sand in a deep bed overhung by
oleanders.
An excursion may be made to the
Col' de Sable, a pass over the moun-
tains W. of El-Aghouat, about Ig m.
from the town. From it there is a fine
view of the oasis ; and on the other
side of the valley between the two
ranges, and part of Djehel Amour.
It is not within the scope of this
work to give itineraries for the desert
of Sahara ; but it would be incomplete
without a short notice of the country of
the M'zab, wdiich is now annexed to
Algeria. It consists of five oases in close
proximity to each other : Ghakd.\ia
Bcni-Isgucn, El-Atcuf, Mclika, and Bou
iXuura, and two isolated oases farther N.,
Bkkuian and Gueki;ai;a ; the po])ula-
tion consists of 40,000 inhabitants,
and they possess 200,000 date trees.
Until 1882 they enjoyed perfect inde-
pendence, though paying a certain
tribute to F' ranee ; but in virtue of a
decree dated 28th December 1882, their
country was annexed to the French
possessions, and tliey became subject to
tlie same laws as govern the other
native races under military rule.
Giiauoaia, 180 kil. from El-Aghouat,
is the capital of the confederation, and
it is there that the military command-
ant resides. The town is picturesquely
situated on the side of a hill, crowned
by the mosf|ue ; from this point a tine
view is obtained of the 8000 date- trees
which this oasis contains. Two walls
divide the intf^rior of the town into
thi'ce quarters. The centre one is occu-
pied by the M':wibi tliemselves, a proud,
exclusive, but active race, entertaining
only commercial relations with the
occupants of the other (juarters. The
eastern portion contains about 300
Jewlah families, and that to the west
is occu])ied by the Mcdabiah, or Arabs
from Djebel Amour. The gardens
belong exclusively to the M'zabis.
Melika is not more than a kil. distant ;
it is considered the Royal or Sacreil
City of the confederation, but is in a
poor and neglected condition.
Bcni-Isgucn is 2 kil. from Ghardaia,
and is the principal entrepot for
European goods. It is surrounded by
a curious walled line of defence. The
irrigational works are exceedingly in-
teresting and worthy of examination.
A little farther on is Bou Noura (the
luminous), a small village with hai'dly
more than 500 inhabitants.
El-Atcuf contains about 3000 souls
and 500 houses. It is the only one of
the oases that can boast'of two mosques.
Beuiuan is 36 kil. N. of Ghardaia ; it
is small but well built and abundantly
watered ; is surrounded with a wall
Hanked by towers, built of round water-
worn stones embedded in mud ; its
gardens contain 30,000 date trees.
GuerraFlA is 60 kil. from Ghardaia,
and it is undoubtedly the most curious
of all. Its streets present an air of
comfort and even luxury, which one
hardly expects to find in the Sahara.
The inhabitants are exceedingly hospit-
able, and the presence of numerous
caravans coming from and going to
Ghardaia and other iilaces, give it an air
of prosperity and commercial activity.
Sect. II
ROUTE 8. MENERVILLK
155
ROUTK 8.
Algiers to Constantine by Railway.
a „
a »
"^ c •
._ g a
S o <2
a c s
fl* 1
Names of SUitioiis.
w ^ —
J .2
^1
Algiers ....
404
2
AKha ....
462
(J
Hussein Dey .
AijH
11
Maison Carrie .
453
1(5
Oued Siiiar
448
19
Maison Blanclie
445
26
Kouiba ....
438
31
Hegliaia ....
433
39
Alma ....
425
42
Corso ....
422
49
Belle-Fontaine .
415
54
Mtnervillc (.junction)
410
61
Souk-el-Haad .
403
65
Beni-Aniran
399
77
Palaestro ....
387
88
Thiers ....
370
99
Omar-Dra ol-Mizan .
305
123
Bouira (Bullet)
341
137
El-Esnam ....
327
150
El-A(ljil.a ....
314
102
Maillcjt ....
302
1(3!)
Bcni-Mansour (.jiiiictinn).
295
ISC.
Hiili Braliim
278
201
Mzita ....
2';3
210
Mansoura ....
254
22(3
El-Achir ....
237
239
Bonlj Iiou-Arrercilj .
225
240
El-Anasser
218
254
Chenia ....
210
203
Ain-Tassera
201
271
Tixti-r ....
193
283
El-}Ianiniam
ISl
290
Meslou;,' ....
108
308
Setil' (Bullet) .
l.'^iii
322
Has el-Ma
142
839
St. Arnami
125
352
Birel-Areli
112
307
St. Donat ....
97
384
Meclitii el-Arbi
80
403
Tclerj;iiia ....
01
427
El-(im'rrali
:'.7
430
Oulail Halimoun
2S
448
Krouli ....
10
453
Oueil llamimiiii
11
460
Hililioilroiiie
1
464
Constantine
2 kil. L'Agha.
6 kil. Hussein Dey.
11 kil. La Maison Carrie (sec p. 110).
I'ifui'catioii of tlu; line to Oraii.
If) kil. (lunl Smar. To tlif iinitli
of the line is the property of tiu; lat(^
M. CoidiiT, wlicro there is a coniplele
collection of all the species of ciicaly|)-
tus and otiier Australian trees, which
have been introduced into the colony.
19 kil. Maison Blanch'. The nearest
station for Fonduk and the Barrage of
the Kiiamis (see p. 111).
26 kil. Jlouiba. There is a Govern-
ment School of Af^rieulture here. Tlie
road to Aui-T<tiia branches olfto the X.
31 kil. La Jitij/i'iiit. The line now
takes a north-easterly direction, and
enters the forest of La Kef^haia, yearly
becoming; more circumscribed in area ;
it then returns to its former course and
apiiroaehes
39 kil. L'Ahiia or Boudoiuiou.
Tills villiif^e was the scene of a
brilliant action fought on the 25th
May 1839, in which 951 French troops
repulsed GOOO Arab.s. Here also, on the
20th April 1 871, the Franc Tireurs, under
the command of Colonel Fourchault,
sujiported by a few Mubiliats and
Zouaves, drove back the bands of Ka-
byles, who, after the all'air of Tahiestro,
sought to invade the plains.
42 kil. Oucd Corso. The boundary
of Kabylia.
49 kil. Bellc-Fontainc. Avillagebuilt
by the Government for the recei>tion
of laniilies from Alsace and Lorraine.
Before arriving at the village, on the
lett hand of the route, is the Kinilba of
Moltamnifd cd-L)ilhah (the murderer).
This individual was made Kaid of
Sebaou in 1737, and Bey of Titer! in
1745. lie was killed during an ex-
pedition again.st Kabylia in 1753.
54 kil. M^nervilie. Junetiou for
Tizi-Ouzou.
This village was formerly named
Col dis Bcni-Aicha, but its present and
ollirial title was given out of compliment
to Monsieur de Menerville, I'remier
I'lcsident oftheCourd'Ai)pel at Algiers.
This is a very important jmsition,
luiiig the easiest antl most freipieiited
entrance into Kabylia. It was de-
stroyed by the Kal>y]es in 1871 ; in
eonse([Uence their land was confiscated
and distributed amongst colonists from
.Msace ami Lorraine.
There is some iron ore between it
and the .sea, and on the coast there is
a small harbour, Mrrsa al-Dijuj (the
port of the fowl), now silted up with
saml, l)ut at one time a Roman ])ositii)n
of .some imiiortance ; a space of 25 acres
is more or less covered with ruin.'<, prob-
inc.
ROUTE 8. AliOIERS TO CONSTANTINR
A hjrria
•ilily tliosc of Jlussubbicarri. Roman
ruins aro also found at Cape Djivct,
fartlier to tlic E., between the nioutlis
of the Isscr and the Scbaou.
The line here takes a bend due S.,
and follows the course of the river
Jssrr, tlic waters of which are abundant
even in suiunier ; the country is very
fertile, and fif? and olive trees are
numerous. A tine view is obtaiued of
the Djurdjura range.
61 kil. Souk-cl-Maad.
G5 kil. Beni-Amran.
A few kil. farther on the line
enters the Gorge of the Isser, or of Ben
Ilinni. The hills on each side are
steep aud often precipitous, confining
the river within a very narrow bed,
so as to form a beautiful landscape.
The 72d kil. is about the narrowest
part of the valley, the rocks on each
side being not more than 90 uietres
apart. Numerous cascades falling into
the main stream, curious grottoes on
tlie face of the hill, Kabyle villages
perched on the summit of the moun-
tains, and luxuriant vegetation every-
where, give to this portion of the gorge
a peculiarly bright and pleasant ap-
]iearance. Unfortunately the line goes
through so many tunnels that the
scenery is not seen to advantage, and
a subsequent visit on foot is advisable.
77 kit. Palaestro.
This village, 591 ft. above the sea, is
situated on a platform bathed on three
sides by the river Isser. It was peopled
by Tyrolese, Italians, French, and
Spaniards, connected for the most part
with the enterprise of opening out the
gorge of tiie Isser. When the insurrec-
tion of 1871 broke out, it was in a
tolerably flourishing condition, con-
sidering its size and secluded position.
The story of the terrible tragedy then
enacted, being, as it was, the most
deplorable of the many which then
took place, deserves to be recorded.
The village contained about 112 in-
habitants ; its position was isolated,
surrounded and commanded on every
side by mountains, and on the border
of two tribes, one Kabyle, the other
Arab, both ripe for revolt. Still no
.serious fears were entertained till, on
18th April 1871, it was suddenly sur-
rounded by hostile tribes before any
means could be adojited for defence.
The village being entirely unfortifted,
it was determined to distribute the in-
habitants in the three houses best suited
to resist attack, — the priest's house, the
barrack of the gendarmerie, and the
establishment of the Bonis ct CJumssies.
Captain Auger of the Engineers and
the priest directed the defence of the
first, the maire commanded the .second,
and the conductor of Boats et Chaussees
the third. In the last, which was the
best of the three, the women and child-
ren were jdaced. Soon the attack
began, the haystacks and buildings
round about were set on fire, and such
as could not get into the village in time
were murdered.
The assailants now advanced in con-
siderable numbers to attack the cure'.s
house, led by the Amin-cl-Omina of
the Beni-Khalfoun. The door was soon
driven in, but the defenders succeeded
in escaping to the gendarmeria with a
loss of four of their number. One
woman remained behind ; she was kept
a prisoner for some time and then
killed.
At this moment the conductor of the
Bonis et ChaxLssics managed to escape to
Fonduk, where he gave information of
what was going on, lea-sdng the house,
however, in which he had been stationed,
which contained all the women and
children, without any one to direct the
defence.
On the 22d the maire, M. Bassetti,
Captain Auger, and the brigadier of
gendarmerie, entered into negotiations
with the insurgents, who offered to con-
duct them safely to Alma, permitting
them to retain their arms. Everything
appeared settled, aud the colonists in
the gendarmerie were on the point of
quitting, when one of their number
made an oft'ensive movement with his
gun. This was the signal for a general
massacre, in which only Captain Auger
and the son of the maire were spared
at the special intercession of the Amiu.
In this horrible carnage 41 Euro-
peans were killed, and even their corpses
were found to have been the object of
the most brutal violence ; some were
thrown alive into the burning houses,
Sect. II
ROUTE 8. PALAESTRO
lo7
and all were stripped of whatever valu-
ables they had.
The house of the Poyits ct Chaussies
was next attacked. Its door, badly
made, offered no resistance. The de-
I'lMiders retreated to the upper storey.
Fire was applied to the f,'rouud-iloor,
and they were again coni[ielled to re-
treat higlier to the terrace.
It was mid-day in April. In a space
of 12 metres, 45 persons were crowded
together behind the purapet of the
terrace, 40 centimetres high. If they
allowed their bodies to appear they
were shot. The heat of the roof, brick
vaults supported by iron girders, was
intense ; even their clothes caught fire.
Stones and bricks were thrown upon
tiiem from below, which grievously
wounded some of their number. A
burning sirocco was blowing, and they
had not a drop of water to quench
tlieir thirst. Several died, and one
in a moment of madness committed
suicide. Tlie women uttered the most
iicartrending cries, but it was not till
() o'clock in the evening, wheii the roof
was on the [loint of falling, that these
heroic men consented to treat witii
tlieir assailants.
Tiio Ainin agreed to conduct all the
men, women, and children to Alina,
on condition that they consented to
abandon their arms. Tiiis was agreed
upon. Ladders were brought to per-
mit them to descend. They were then
taken to the residence of the Amin-el-
Omina, where they found Captain
Auger and the young IJassetti. Two
days after Colonel Fourchault arrived
on the spot with a column from Algiers,
to find only corjises and blackened
ruins. He had to fight his way there
and back to Alma amongst those who
had taken ])art in the ma.ssacre.
The i>risouers, 40 in numlier, amongst
whom were 32 women and children,
were ke[)t in eajitivity for 22 days, and
(inly released on the termination of the
insurrection, when Mokrani was killed.
Tlie remains of the victims rejiose
under the shadow of the cluireh, and a
monument, in the worst style of art,
has been erected to commemorate tiie
event.
Now Palaestro has been rebuilt, and
considerably enlarged. Thirty fanuliea
from Alsace and Lorraine have l>een
located here, and additional c<inces.sions
have been given to the families of the
survivors with no sjiaring hand. A
fort lias been constructed, and consider-
able plantations of tlie eucalyptus and
otiier Australian trees have lieeii
made.
[There is a bridle path hence, pa.ssing
tlirough tlie lieautiful scenery of Bou-
Zigza to Foiiduk, p. 111.]
88 kil. Thiers, formerly called Am
0mm el-Allcng.
99 kil. Umar-Dra d-Miznn. Station
for the little village of Omar, distant
2 kil. from the line, and for the much
more important one of Dra el-Mizan,
12 kil. to the N.E. An omnibus meets
ea<,ii train, and t.ikes the traveller in
lA hour and for 1 f. to Dra el-.Mizan.
Tiiis village is situated in a beautifully
fertile basin surrounded by the moun-
tain chains of l>JHrdjura ami M<hiU-
kiiia. It is built outside the fort which
proved so useful during the insurrec-
tion of 1871. On that occasion the
Kabyles attacked and destroyed the
village, but tlie inhabitants took refuge
in the fort, which was strictly lilockaded
by the enemy from tlie 22d Ajiril until
relieved by General Ceres on the 4tii
.June. A market is held hero every
Thursday.
[Instead of returning by the same
route, the traveller may do so by Lrs
lasers (see p. 143), and there is a horse
road to Fort National. ]
Due east of Dra el-AIizan, on tlic
road to Fort National, \n liorilj Jhtfilini ,
so called from an old Turkish fort, the
most advanced which this people (X'cu-
pied in Kaliylia. Near the bridge at
tlie entrance to the village is a I'Vra-
iiiidal monument to the memory of MS
men massat'red by the Kabyles here in
18Gt). A great market is held every
Sunday, wliicli was the prini'ii)al focus
of sedition in tlie insuirection of 1871.
123 kil. Bordj Bouira (tlie fort of
the small well).
It derives its name from an old
ir)H
UOUTK 8. ALOIEUH TO C0N8TANTINE
Algeria
'rurkish fort in the iiciKlil'Ourliood.
It is now a llouii.sliinf^ villaffo.
Tiiis is one of the few districts in
tile in-ovince of Algiers where lions are
still occasionally to be found.
It is a convenient place at which to
pass the night when going to Tunis, as
the traveller can thus start by a later
train.
here is a diligence service to Au-
male.]
[Th
After leaving Bouira the line follows
an eiisterly direction between the Owrl
Edduus and the 0. Zaiam, through a
very fertile plateau, to
137 kil. El-Esnam, or A'in cI-Esnam
(the spring of images or statues), from
which place also there is a carriage
road to Aumale.
3 kil. to the S.W. are the ruins of a
Roman barrage in the Dual Bcnian
(valley of building), au affluent of the
Otial Berdi, which itself falls into the
Oued Zaiam. A little beyond the cara-
vanserai, on the right of the road, are
two remarkable conical lulls called El
Mcssen (les deux Manielles), which
form a landmark for miles around.
After this the country becomes poor,
and would be uninteresting but for the
magnificent view of Djurdjura, with its
snow -clad peaks, which the traveller
enjoys during the whole of the day's
journey.
150 kil. EI-Adjiha (the wonderful).
A few kil. S.W. of El-Adjiba^ are
some curious caverns at Ahl Ksar,
said to have been a Roman mine, and
farther on is the village of Scbkha,
where there is a salt spring, utilised
by the natives for the manufacture of
salt. The water is received into open
basins, and evaporated by solar heat.
162 kil. Mail lot. At the Col dcs Pins
the carriage road to Bougie turns off to
N.E., and crosses the Oucd cs-Sahcl by
an iron bridge. 4 kil. from this spot,
on the opposite side of the valley, is
the village of Maillot, built in 1883. It
is situated on the lowest spurs of the
Djurdjura range, in a very health}' and
picturesque situation, amongst groves
of olive trees. There is a very good
inn.
109 kil. Beni - MansoOr. .Junction
for Bougie (.see Rte. 1). At 7 kil.
beyond the station is the old Bordj
Brni-Mansour, 923 ft. above the. sea, a
small fort built to dominate the head of
the Oued es-Sahel. This was besieged
by the Kabyles in 1871 for 41 days.
They even brought against it a curious
old piece of ordnance, which probably
formed part of the artillery of the Due
de Beaufort, abandoned duiing his
disastrous expedition to Djidjelly in
1664. It bears the inscription,
ANNO DEI 1635
DEI IS ME A I VET.
(Deus me adjuvet.)
The view from the terrace of the
Bordj is magnificent. The whole of
the N. horizon is bounded by the Djur-
dj ura range, only a few miles distant ; its
highest peak, Tamcjout Lalla Khculidja,
being nearly opposite the fort. Its
summit is covered with snow for nine
months in the year, and near the top is
the shrine of the Lady KhadAdja, a pil-
grimage to which is considered by the
Kabyles as a hardly less meritorious
action than one to Alecca. At the foot
of it runs the gigantic bed of the Oufxl
es-Salicl, in which only a few threads of
water are visible, the remainder being
taken up by groves of olive trees of
great antiquity. It is said that some
of these were actually grafted in the
time of the Romans ; that the art of
grafting them had been lost amongst
the Kabyles, and only reintroduced
after the French conquest.
South of this, and parallel to the
right bank of the river, is another lower
range of hills, on the tops of which are
perched the villages of the Beni-i\Ian-
sour, Oulad boit AU, Iril, Tiriltc, and
Taourirtc. To tlie east the horizon is
shut in by the hills bounding the Oued
es-Sahel, between which, at no great
distance, is the mamelon of Akbou, the
country of Ben Ali Cherif. One can
even observe a small eminence on the
base, which is the curious Roman mau-
soleum near the village of Akbou (see
p. 244). The valley running up from
this mamelon towards Djurdjura is
the boundary between Constantine and
Algiers.
Sect. II
KOUTE 8. BEM-MAN.SOUR
159
At the fuot of llic mound on wliicli
the Borilj Beni-Mansoiir is built is a
.siiKill Christian cemetery, tlie last rest-
ing- place of Lieutenant the Baron
Anca})itaine, who has rendered such
im[)ortant services to archaeology in
Algeria. He and his bride of two
months died within three days of each
other of cholera in 1867.
The line now traverses an undulat-
ing plateau covered with Alejjpo pine,
junipci', and brusliwood.
180 kil. >Si'li Bridiim. Where it is
possible to sleeji. Tliis is the station
for the Bibans, or Fortes de Fer, 3 kil.
distant, which are well worth (.areful
examination.
The above names have been given to
two r('markal)le passes by whidi alone
access is obtained to the higli lands of
Wansoura beyond, 1104 ft. al)ove the
level of the sea. The mountains here are
of the greatest possible interest, from a
geological [)oint of view. They consist
of strata of black rock, sometimes hard
and compact, like tra[) ; at others, soft
and friable, like schist, alternating witli
a softer substance, generall}' induratcil
clay. On the upi)er and outer surfaces
of these ridges the softer material has
been washed away, leaving the harder
strata lemaining, like Cyclopean walls,
which olten assume the most fantastic
forms. Sometimes they are in con-
siilerable numbers, and parallel to each
other, like the side-scenes of a theatre ;
sometimes they fringe the crests of the
mountains like delicate fretwork, and
at others they assume the form of
grotes(pie animals ; chameleons stand-
ing out ill bold relief against the sky,
or gigantic pythons winding their
sinuous forms along the sides of the
mountains.
The Grande I'orte is that through
which the rly. passes, following the
course of the river, here called iiiad <•/-
}[(tiinn<()ii. Lower down it takes tlie
name of Oiird S/irhl/n, and after its
junction with the rivei' llowing through
the I'ditc Purlc it is known as the ducd
Marnjh. The i)eculiar stratification of
the hills on each siile is here seen to
admirable advantage.
The rivers in this distri(tt are so
highly charged with magnesia as to be
(piite unpotable ; the only gooil drink-
ing water for miles round is obtained
from a snuill spring in the l)od of tlie
river at tiie entrance of the jia-ss.
Beyond, on an eminence to the right
of the road and on the left bank of the
river, arc some very curious hot sulphur-
ous springs, calleil KZ-Huinin'im (the
bath). The ground covered by tlieir
deposit is about half a mile long ; the
sj)rings bubble n|( in small circular
basins, exactly like miniature (ieysers,
with a raised margin and a deposit of
sulphate of soila covered with a layer
of pure sulphur. The water in the
largest one is carefully conducted into
a rude bath which is much in repute
amongst tlie natives. There is also a
pool of still hot water, like those in
the neighbourhood of the Geysers ; the
temperature of the water is sullicient
to boil an egg in a few minutes ; it
varies from 17'2" to 200° Falir. , and the
water contains 22 centig. of su]|>hate of
sodium per litre.
To visit the smaller pass, called /.
I'l/i/e I'uiii; it is neces.sjiry to leave tb'
high road about 2 kil. before the en-
trance to the larger one, at a bridge
crossing an aflluent of the main stream
called the Oiird boii Kotiin. This is
the jiass followed by the column of
3000 men under command of Marshal
Valce and the Due d'Orleans in 1839 —
the liist French troops to pass this
formidable barrier.
The road, if such it may be called,
passes along the bed of the above-
named stream, which is ahso saline, and
is enclosed between stupendous rocks,
in .some places not more than 12 ft.
apart, jHcsenting the same stratitied
appearance as in the larger gate. I'rc-
seiitly the path a.scends tlit; left bank
of the stream, and, making a detour to
the right, joins the main road Ju.st be-
yond the hot springs.
The country l)eyond is mountainous
and sterile, only here and there a few
j)atches of cultivation, until —
201 kil. Mzda.
210 kil. Miinsmmi, a small Kabylo
town in the kaidat of Mzita, 2G37 ft.
above the level of the sea.
[A very interesting excursion may bo
1 rio
nOUTK 8. AI-OIKRS TO CONHTANTINE
A Ifjeria
made from Mansouva to JJoiii ami (Jdiia
(sod lite. 18). Tlicrc! is a fairly f,'ooil
lii'idlo path, and tlie distance to 15oui is
not more than ci^dit lio\irs by mule ; it
would be (piito feasible to proceed
tliencc to Khanita in the Cliabet el-
Akliira in two days (Ktc. 12), spend-
ing the night at Bcni-OurtUan.']
226 kil. El-Achir.
239 kil. Bordj bou-Arreredj. 1219
inhal). 306:J ft. above the sea level.
Wlien the Due d'Orleans, with the
army commanded by Marshal Yalee,
penetrated into the Medjana to efTcct
the i)assage of the Fortes de Far, the
camp was pitched at the A'in hou-
^Irrercdj, near which rose abrujjtly
from tiic plain a steep and almost
conical hill, crowned with the ruins of
a fort ])uilt by the Turks in the end of
the 16th century, out of older Roman
remains. This fort had been twice
burnt by the Mokranis in revolt against
the Turks, and had subse([uently been
abandoned by the latter ; it now served
as a watch-tower where robbers, em-
bracing as they could the whole plain
at a single glance, were constantly ly-
ing in wait for travellers and caravans.
After the occupation of Setif it be-
came necessary to station a force there
permanently, in order to support I\Io-
krani in his endeavours to establish
French influence and to oppose that of
Abd-el-Kader, whose lieutenant bad in-
spired such dread amongst the popula-
tion of the Medjana that they had
entirely deserted the plain and retreated
to the mountain.
The Bordj was rebuilt, and under
the protection of its ruler, the Medjana
became rapidly peopled, and the soil,
which had lain fallow for years, was
brought under cultivation.
In 1871, when the insurrection broke
out, Bordj contained 90 houses in the
town and 30 in the vicinity of it, with
a ]iopulation of 300, owning 15,000
acres of arable land. For the third time
the town was tlestroyed {ank', p. 60)
by the Mokrani tribe.
Tiie town has been rebuilt on a much
larger scale, and its territory has Iteen
augmented by the seiiuestration of the
insurgents' property. A monument, in
tiic form of a marble obelisk, has been
erected in the village to commemorate
the heroic defence of the place, the
honour of which was principally due
to the molji/cs iioin Aix and ^Marseilles ;
on it are inscribed the names of those
who fell.
The ancient Bordj, which was de-
stroyed with the rest of the town, has
been well rebuilt, and the whole place
has been surrounded by a strong bas-
tioned wall of defence. The old fort,
which now constitutes the citadel, is
situated at the N.E. angle ; tliis it was
which successfully resisted all the efforts
of the rebels to take it in 1871.
The whole of the magnificent and
fertile plain of the Medjana became the
property of the State by the defection
of Mokrani ; thus one of the finest por-
tions of the country has been opened
out to colonisation.
[For a route from this place to Fort
National by the Oued es-Sahel, see
Rte. 20.]
246 kil. El-Jnnsscr. After passing
this place the line takes a bend, and
runs considerably S. of the old high
road ; which it does not again rejoin
till the junction of both at Setif.
254 kil. Chenia.
263 kil. Ain-Tasscra.
271 kil. Tixtcr (view line of snow-
capped mountains).
283 kil. El-Ha.m')nam.
296 kil. Mcsloug.
308 kil. Setif. ' 5833 inhab. 3573
ft. above sea level.
Setif, the ancient Sitifis Colonia of
the Romans, was one of the most im-
portant cities that that nation jwssessed
in Africa, and was made the capital of
the province oi Mauritania Siti/cnsis.
In 419 it was injured bj' an earth-
quake, and later on, ravaged by the
Vandals and the Arabs ; but even at
the time of the French occupation,
traces of the ancient fortifications were
distinctly visible. In the Middle Ages,
El-Bekri, an Arabian historian, wrote
that, although the walls had been de-
stroyed, the city was still flourishing
and well populated, and contained
numbers of bazaars.
Sect. II
ROUTE 8. SETIF
1«J1
In ]83!» it was taken by the Fienuli
under General Galbois.
(.)n the S. face of tlic citadel at this
period was a single venerable aspen
tree, the only one visible as far as the
eye could reach ; ]>e]o\v this was a
spring, tlie water of wliicli llowed down
anil inigated a valley leading into the
Oucil huic-Scllam. These waters have
now been carefully utilised for the
supply of the town and the gardens
round it.
The town of Setif, as it exists at
present, is entirely modern ; and al-
thougii traces of tlie ancient walls and
ramparts arc still visible, most of the
Roman ruins which remained at the
time of the French occupation have
disappeared. The wide streets are
lined with substantial modern houses,
and many of them are bordered with
trees. Tlie shojis are numerous and
well supplied. Tiie town is entered by
the Gfilcs I if Boil (J i<', Conslanlinc, Abji r,
and Biskra, the first-named of wliich
is in the military (piarter.
The Mudcrii Citadel forms a militarj'
quarter to the N. of the rest of the
town ; it contains the general's resi-
dence, l)arracks for 3000 men, an
hospital that can make up 1000 beds,
besides ofllcers' (juarters, storehouses,
and all other requisite military build-
ings. It was almost entirely constructed
by the men of the garrison stationed
here, and was finisheil in 1817.
The walls of the ancii'ut Roman city,
restored prol)ably by the Byzantines,
have been incorporated in the modern
French ones ; they are of great solidity,
and Hanked by 10 towers.
On the Fromcnadc d'OrJtans, a
dreary, ill-ke])t enclosure outside the
/'()/•/« d'Alijrr, a collection has been
made of Jtoman antiijuities, such as
columns, cajiilals, toml)stones, frag-
ments of sculpture and inscriptions,
some of which make mention of the
ancient Silifis. Two of the most in-
teresting inscriptions foun<l here are the
(Epitaphs of the liishop Novatir^, mcn-
tioncil in tlie acts of the Council ol
Cartilage and liy .St. Augustine, and of
the martyr, St. Laureiitius.
Here also has been erected a column,
surmounted by a bust of the Due
\_Al(jcriaJ]
d'Orleans, in commemoration of liis
expedition to the J'orks de Fii:
In the liouse of the Commandant de
Genie is a line (csschUid ])(ic<:iit>-itt,
representing a head of Neptune sur-
rounded by Nereids mounted on sea-
horses, dolphins, etc., wiiiili was ills-
covered at Kasr Temouchent, wliere it
formed the princi[)al ornament of tlic
fountain there. A few good pieces of
sculpture have also been built into the
walls of his garden.
Setif being so high above the level
of the sea, its climate greatly resembles
and is quite as healthy as that of tlie
centre of France, although considerably
hotter in summer. It is ailmirably
suited to the growth of all kinds of
European fruits, and in the plain in
which it is situated cereals grow in
great abundance. Its geographical i)Osi-
tion cannot fail to .secure for it a great
future, being, as it is, the jumtion of
many of the most important lines of
communication in the colon}', such a.s
those with Algiers, Constantiiie, Bou-
Saiida, the Medjana, the Hodna and
Bougie.
Its market, licld outside the city
gates, is one of the most important in
Algeria, and is the rendezvous where
the Kabyle from the mountains, the
Aralis from the plains, and even the
Saharans meet to exchange their pro-
duce. Every Sunday during the
months of August, September, and
October it is attended by not less
than 8000 or 10,000 natives. The
Bou Taleb tribe, about a day's journey
distant, are celebrated for the manu-
facture of carpets and haiks.
By a decree of the 'iOtli April 1853
a concession of 50,000 acres was made
to the Compagnie (ienevoise for the
jiurpose of hastening European colonis-
ation in this district. This company
created several villages, amongst others
Ain-Arnat, El-Ouricia, Bouliira, Jla-
houan, Mes.saoud and El-Hamelia;
but the object of the concession has not
hitherto been attained, and a great
part of the land has been simply let
to the Arabs.
The country may bi' divided into
two regions, very distinct from eaeb
other — the mountainous part, inlia-
02
UOUTK 8. AI.GIKRS 'V') CONSTANT] NK
AbjCl Ul
Iiilnl liy Kaliylcs, siiiiiliir to utlu-r
jKUts ol' Iviihyliii clsuwliore described,
and tlic regions occupied l)y Araljs.
'J'lio latlur ai'u iiiiiiiuiisc plains, tlie
avenigi; lieif,dit of wliicli is about 3000
It. al)ove the sea, wliich stretcii from
the Medjaua to Tebessa, possessing
abundant pasturage, rich in cattle and
grain, carpeted with the most beautiful
Hewers in spring, cold and bleak in
winter, hot, parched, and dusty in
summer ; without a tree as far as the
eye can range, save in the vicinity of
modern French villages.
They aie occupied almost entirely
by two tribes, the Oulud Ahd-en-Nour
and the Euhim, and may be divided into
two very distinct zones, the Tell and
the Schakh. The former is the most
fertile, and abounds with ruins of
Koman agricultural establishments ;
the latter has a Salter and more ari<l
soil, and its climate is hotter and more
feverish. Befoi-e the French occupation
these tribes were entirely nomade, but
since then they have become much
more stationary, and Arab villages
have sprung np in every direction,
where a spring or a well renders it
possible.
From Setif the beantiful road through
the Chabet-el-Akhira descends to Bou-
gie (see Rte. 12).
At 9 kil. E. of Setif, on the high road,
is Kasr Tcmouchcnt, or La Fontaine
llinnainr, where was fonnd the tesse-
lated pavement now in the house of
tlie Coinmaudant de Genie.
322 kil. Ras el-Ma. To the S. of
the line may be seen an isolated
mamelon, Djcbcl Sicli Brao, where a
number of Christians are said to have
been mas-sacred during the Moham-
medan invasion on refusing to em-
brace the religion of El-Islam.
339 kil. St. Arnaud.
3.")2 kil. Bir el-Arch.
3t)7 kil. St. Donat. 5 or 6 kil. to
the N.W., and beyond the high road,
may be seen the tomb of Sidi Yaliia,
the foumler of the tril)e of Oulad Abd-
cn-A^our. M. Feraud translates the
inscription on it —
" O li)i riui (;8 arrete (levant notre toiiit^e
Nc t'dUww.H pas lie notn^ otat :
IJicr nous etions ooinme toi ;
Deniain tu serasconinic nou.s."
This brings to our recollection the
inscription not uncommon in old coun-
try churchyards in England, which,
with occasional variations, runs —
" Travellers, as you ]iass by.
View the ground wherein we lie :
As you are now, so once were we ;
As we are now, so shall you be."
384 kil. Meckta el-Arbi.
403 kil. Telercpjia. At 8 or 9 kil.
distance to the N.W., on the high
road, and 40 kil. from Constantine,
is the jileasantly situated village of
Oued Atmenia. It was created in 1864.
At 2 kil. from the village, in the
property of the Comte de Tourdonnet,
there was discovered in 1878, at a depth
of from 5 to 7 ft. below the surface, the
remains of an e.xtensive range of build-
ings, the mosaic flooring of which
was in so perfect a condition that
an architect, M. Martin, was able to
make drawings of it ; this was pub-
lished by the Arclueological Society of
Constantine, and justly rewarded with
a gold medal at the Paris Exhibition of
1878. The proprietor of this establish-
ment was Fompeianus, proconsul of
Africa, in the reign of Houorius, de-
scribed in an inscription found at
Calamo as Vii'o clarissimo amplis-
simoquc.
The mosaics in the baths are by far
the finest and most interesting that
have yet been found in Algeria. They
consist of numerous tableaux, — one re-
presenting the owner's house, with park
behind. There are hunting scenes in
which every huntsman and dog is
named ; views of the stables, each
horse having its name attached ; gar-
den scenes in which the lady of the
house is spinning under a palm tree ;
and numerous other objects not only of
great interest, but which give us an
idea of the style of domestic architec-
ture in use in Africa in the fiist and
second centuries, the probable date of
the building.
In the stable arc the following names
of horses : —
-{j'td. n
ROUTE 8, LK KRULB
it;:i
ALTV.S VNVS ES
VT MONS EXVLTAS
i-vm,i:nti.\nv.s
dkmcatvs
VINCAS NOX VIXCAS
TE AMAMV.S POLIDOXE
TITAS
SCHOLASTICV:
Anotlicr mosaic gives the names of
the huntsmen : cuESCONivs, CKSONi-
vs, NEANTVs, roMTEiANVs. The at-
tendants are named, Dia.s an<l Lidek ;
and the dogs, fidelis and castvs.
At 1 kil. beyond the viUage is the
tliermal spring of Hamniam Grous and
the ruins of the Zaouia of Sidi Hamana,
who, according to Arab tradition, caused
the hot springs to appear in order to
facilitate the winter ablutions of his
followers.
427 kil. El-Gueiikah. June, for
IJatna and IJiskra.
The line now takes a turn to the
north.
436 kil. Oulad Rahmoun. June, for
Aiii-Bcida. In the neighbourhood are
many interesting mcgalithic remains
(see p. 197).
In the spring of Bou Merzoug is
found a very remarkable fisli, the Tcllia
apoda, a cyprinodon destitute of ventral
lins ; it has no other known habitat,
and never strays more than lialf a mile
from the source.
448 kil. Le Kroub (jnnc. for Bone
and Tunis), more correctly El-Khrouh
(the ruined), from the tradition that an
important town once existed here. There
is a market, lield every Friday afternoon
and Saturday morning. About 3 kil. to
the E. is the beautiful Roman monument
calleil Es-Soumah, erroneously .styled by
the })eople of the locality Tlic Tomb of
ConstanUne (.see p. 197).
453 kil. Oncd Ilaniimim.
4G0 kil. Jlippodroiiic.
4(34 kil. Constantine. See ]>. 185.
ROUTE !).
Algiers to Aumale and Bou Saada.
Service of diligences as far a.s Aumale.
25 kil. Sidi Moussa.
Hence the road branches of]' in a S.E.
direction, roUowiug tlio liglit bunk of
the (Jued Djeinaa, wliich is in winter a
veritable torrent, causing much injury
to the faiTOS on its banks. Several
|)roposals liave been made to embank
it, but the expen.sr' has liitherto pre-
vented anything being done.
30 kil. El-Arba. 1116 inhab.
A prosperous village situated at the
foot of the Atlas mountains, founded
in 1S49, made a commune 1856. It
owes its name to the Arab market held
here on Wednesday. Oranges are grown
here in gi-eat abundance, and of excellent
(piality, the land is rich both in cereals
and tobacco, the culture of whicli is
assured by irrigation from the Ourd
Djcmiia. The houses an; well built,
the public buildings satisfactory, and
the streets planted with trees. 2 kil.
S. of it is the ex-Imperial farm of Iluouch
Jioii-Kdndonni, directed till after the
fall of the empire by Mr. Hardy, the
creator of the Jardiii d'Essai at Algier .
The road now ascends to
43 kil. Mchib-il- Koran, an auberge
situated at about 1639 ft. above the sea.
The road between Arba and SakamoiH
is very i>ictnre.sfpie, and worthy of a
visit ; beyond it is very dreary.
52 kil. Sakamodi. The highest
point on the road to Aumale, 3282 ft.
above the sea. In one of the ravines
here a detachment of soldiers of the
military train was overtaken by snow
in 1848 and perished. It has only a
small auberge and a few colonists.
60 kil. A'in-liiirid (cool fountain).
The route now descends rapidly to
71 kil. Tablat, the ancient Tablata,
where the diligence stops for breakfast ;
a ]ioor hamlet, where, notwithstanding
the excellence of the climate, colon-
isation has hardly yet taken root. A
large bordj b.-us licen built here.
75 kil. The road passes the conflu-
ence of the Uttcd Mi'Inh and the Issrr.
There is a large caravan.serai called
Mrxoubia, where it is [lossible to put
up.
100 kil. io,s- Frdncjt, or El B>thom,
the Arabic name for the l'i,'itiichin
Atbnitica, which somewhat resembles
the ash ; an insignificant liamlet.
108 kil. Bir Mfhahia (more correctly
Akb(ihm). A small village created in
1858 in a rich and fertile district. The
IC.l
noLTK '.). ALGIEU.S TO AUMALE AND BOU SAADA Algeria
iimiiurous rarms iirouiid aru in a high
state of jJi'OHpci'ity.
116 kil. Let Trnnhlcs. A i)Oor, iie-
f,'lufted little village, though sitnated
ill a rich and very healthy country.
[At 7 kil. from Les Trembles and 21
from Aumale, on the road to 15ouira, is
the village of Aiii-Bessem, of recent
construction. Near the village are the
ruins of an important Roman fortress,
CasUilum Aitzicnsr, hut the walls have
been almost entirely destroyed to build
the colonists' houses. The spring,
which gives its name to the place, is
almost in the centre of it.]
128 kil. Aumale. Hotel de Roulage.
Pop. of the arrondissement, 28,769.
The ancient Auzia, known to the
Arabs as ,'iour Ghozlan (Rampart of
Gazelles), 2790 ft. above the sea. Auzia
was founded during the reign of Augus-
tus, a few years before the Christian
era, and the epoch of its greatest splen-
dour was the end of the 2d century,
shortly after which it disappeared from
history. It played a considerable part
in the struggle of Tacfarinas against
the Proconsuls, and again, at the end
of the empire, in the wars of Theodosius
against the revolted Mauritanians. The
Turks built a fort here, out of the ruins
of the Roman city, but when the first
French expedition visited it in 1843
nothing but a heap of ruins remained
of either occupation.
It was not till 1846 that the Govern-
ment of Algeria determined to build
a permanent military post at Sour
Ghozlan, which received the name of
Aumale.
The modern town, which consists of
little more than a solitary street, is
surrounded by a crenelated wall with
4 gates, those of Algiers, Bou-Saiida,
Setif, and Medeah.
Several interesting excursions may
be made in the neighbourhood, espe-
cially on the Roman road between it
and Boghar. At 12 kil. W. of Aumale
is a small monument called Kafir bint-
cs-<S'i;^/aft, palace of the Sultan's daugher.
Beyond is the Ghorfa ihs Oulad Miriam,
an old Roman tower, and at 26 kil.
from Aumale, Sour Djouah the liapidi
of the Itinerary of Antoninus, and per-
haps the Lumida of Ptolemy, the en-
ceinte of which is still visible.
Another excursion may be made to
the thermal springs of HainnMm Ksan-
na, situated about Z'i kil. in an easterly
direction. The road to them crosses
the iOued Achebour, which, after its
junction with the Oned JMerdja, be-
comes the Oued Akkal ; it then pa.sses
between two tumuli, which, to judge
by the stones lying about, probably
conceal Roman ruins ; then turning
somewhat to the N., and leaving the
route to Bou-Saiida to the right, it fol-
lows that leading to Bordj Bou-Arreredj.
The small garrison of Aumale made
a very gallant sortie during the insur-
rection of 1871, and drove off a greatly
superior force of the enemy under the
personal command of Bou Mezrag, who
left 300 of his followers dead on the field.
The journey on to Bou-Saiida is not
one that can be recommended to the
general traveller, unless he is disposed
to submit to a good deal of roughness
and discomfort for the purpose of see-
ing a Saharan mud town, with quaint
streets, on a picturesque water-course,
amid date groves. It can be done by
diligence or mail-cart in about 24
ho\irs, including a night's rest on the
road. The cold is sometimes very
great in winter.
After leaving Aumale there are fine
views of the Atlas on the distant right.
The route descends continuall}^, and
reaches the plain after 3 hours' drive.
35 kil. Caravanserai of Sidi Aissa.
Thence over a perfectly flat plain to
60 kil. A'in-Adijd. There is rough
but decent accommodation at this cara-
vanserai. The next stage is over a
plain diversified by occasional hills to
102 kil. A'in-Kcrman, a solitary
caravanserai ; a little bit of vegetation
beneath it is about the only green spot
on the route. In the distance, on the
left, the salt mountain of El-Outai'a
may be seen. Above the caravanserai
arc the ruins of a fortified position, of
a square form, containing ajjartnients
which seem to have served as habita-
tions ; it is built of square dressed
stones, and is evidently of the same
epoch us the tombs of Bou-Saiida. The
Seel. IT
ROUTE 9. DOr-.SAADA
1 r,r,
country beyond is yellow and stony,
and farther on tliere are immense dunes
of sand skirting the bed of the Oued
I5ou-Sa;ida the whole way to the town.
132 kil. Bou-Saada. Pop. 5112.
No good accommodation is obtainable,
but there are several cabarets kejit by
Maltese. The altitude is 578 metres
above the sea.
The oasis of Bou-Saiida is situated
on the southern limit of the Hodna,
and on the northern one of the Oulad
A'uil. The town is surrounded on the
S., E., and N. by gardens containing
about 8000 jialm and abundance of
other fruit trees. It contains about
1000 houses built of sun-dried bricks,
disposed iu quaint, narrow, and tortu-
ous streets. It is divided into distinct
quarters, which were frequently, before
the French conquest, at war with each
other. It has a large ])opulation of
Jews, devoted entirely to commerce
and to the manufacture of gold and
silver ornaments.
Bou-Saiida is celebrated for its manu-
facture of woollen goods, such as carpets,
burnouses, haiks, etc. These are usually
made by the women, and command a
high price in the Tell.
The Koman occupation of this dis-
trict appears to have been purely mili-
tary. Nevertheless, at the Oued Chellal,
there are remains of barrages, which
prove that agricultural establishments
existed at that place, though by no
means to such an extent as in the
eastern part of the Hodna.
At Ain-el-Ghorab, 35 kil. to the
S., there is a fine summer climate,
with abundance of good water. Ain-
iMelah is 10 kil. still farther S. ; there
Tuay be seen many salt and fresh springs
in close contiguity, which mingle their
waters as they flow out of the j)lace.
There are great numbers of mega-
lithic remains in the country round.
In the region of the Madid, to the N.
of the Hodna, is an immense necropolis
of the stone age. The mountains near
Bou-Saiida abound in similar tombs.
[From I'ou-Saiida there is a carriage
road to Djelfa, 120 kil., but not very
good ; the first halt is at 60 kil. , at an
Arab village, where there is a caravau-
serai ;
also one to Bordj bou-Arreredi
by M'sila ; and a third to Biskra by
M'doukal and El-Outaia— the last takes
3 days on horseback, or 4 to 5 with a
caravan.]
ROUTE 10.
Algiers to Oran by Railway.
■" s „•
"" 5
o S w
=il
Xames of Stations.
5 • Si
1=5
lr^<
a-
5~
Algiers
421
'2
Aglia .
420
(j
Hussein Dey
415
11
M.-iiscin Carrte
411
15
GuL- tie Constantino
40<;
20
Baba Ali (Arret) .
401
20
Uir-Tuiita .
3ot;
37
Houfarik
3S4
4r,
Bini-Miied .
377
■a
Hmdah .
371
liS
LaCliitla
30;!
03
Mouzaiaville .
350
CO
Ei,-AKKiti>rN .
35:!
TS
Oued-ltjir
344
01
lieu Me.lfa .
331
OS
VfSdvil Iknian
323
110
Adclia .
312
120
Affbeville .
802
124
Lavarande
207
140
Dupent-
270
ir,o
Oufil Uouina
201
170
St. Cyprien iles Attafs
351
173
Les Attafs .
249
183
Tenimilb'a (Arret) .
239
186
Oued Fodda .
235
195
Le Barrage (Arret)
227
203
Ponteba
218
209
Orlkassvii.le
213
22-t
Oued-Sly
198
232
Cbarron
189
243
Lc Mi-rdja
179
254
Oued Kiou .
lt»
203
Djidiouia
159
283
Lf8 Salines (Anet)
138
290
Relizane
126
315
LHillil .
107
332
Oued Malah .
00
340
Porrigaux
76
300
L'llabra (Arret) . •
(52
370
St. Denis vv Sic .
52
376
L'Ouga.sse (Arret).
46
381
Mare d'eau (Arret)
40
895
Stc. B.irbt; de Tltlat
26
404
Arbal (Arret)
18
411
Valniy ....
10
410
LaSenia(Arr«t) .
6
421
Okan (Karguontah)
The t
rain starts from the .
ita
tion on
the (|uay, and ]i.issing the Agha, fol-
low.* thu edge of the shore as far as
ICC
ROdTE 10. Ar/;iF,IlH TO OIIAN
A Ufria
(i kil. Iliissriii Dry, so called I'roiii ii
liiK! Ijuildin^' which buloiij^cd to the
last Duy of Algiers. It is now incor-
jioratcd in the large establishment for
the purchase and sale of tobacco, on
account of Government. The country
round is richly cultivated as market
gardens.
A little farther the line turns inland,
and reaches
11 kil. La Mii.hon Carrie.
Junction of line to Coustantine.
Here the line, which has hitherto
gone in an easterly direction, makes an
abrujit turn to the S.W., and passing
between the Harrach on the left and
the foot of the Sahel on the right,
enters the Metidja, a vast fertile plain,
100 kil. long and 25 broad, contained
between the lirst slopes of the Atlas
and the high land of the Sahel. The
population of this plain is steadily in-
creasing, and it now contains 25,000
Europeans, principally engaged in agri-
culture.
15 kil. Guide Constantine.
20 kil. Baba AIL
26 kil. Bir-Touta.
37 kil. Boufarik. 3290 inhab.
IJoufarik, at the time of the French
invasion, was a pestilential marsh,
tenanted chiefly by wild beasts. In
1832 it was occupied by General d'Erlon,
who established an intrenched cam]i
there ; but for many years the malaria
killed off the settlers almost as fast as
they came, and the camp before men-
tioned acquired the name oiLc Cimetiirc.
Even as late as 1S63, an English
writer, whose observations are always
accurate, tiius speaks of it: "Not a
single French settlement in all Algeria
bears such a death-fraught name ; no-
where throughout the land has civilisa-
tion gained a victory at such an enor-
mous cost. Wasting ague or malignant
fevers cut off both old and young.
Under the hot autumnal sun the exha-
lations from a swampy soil become a
virulent poison, which the strongest
cannot withstand."
At the present time, however, Bou-
farik is a healthy, flourishing country
town, with large, clean, densely-shaded
streets and squares, through many of
which flow streams of clear water.
The most important market in the
colony is licld here every Monday for
the sale of cattle and agricultural pro-
duce ; it is well worthy of a visit.
A bronze statue of ]>landari (see
below) has been erected here by public
subscription.
A few kil. to the S. in the mountains
are the iron-mines of Soumah, where
the ore, an oxide of iron, is excavated
in galleries, and not (i cid ouvert, as is
usually the case in Algeria. This mine
belongs to the same comitany as that of
Ain-Mokra, near ]5one, and ]>eni Saf,
on the coast between Oran and Ne-
mours. They are not worked at
present.
45 kil. Beni-Mercd. 503 inhab.
This village had in 1839 a redoubt and
blockhouse, where a small detachment
of cavalry was stationed for the pro-
tection of the roads. In 1841 a village
was created by the military engineers,
destined to receive a body of military
colonists, a part of whose duty was to
guard the great barrier, or intrenchment,
intended to restrain the incursion of
the Arabs in the direction of Algiers.
In 1845 the village was increased and
peopled by civilians. In the public
place is a fountain, surmounted by an
obelisk, erected in memory of Sergeant
Blandan and 20 French soldiers, who
were attacked in April 1842 by about
300 mounted Arabs. They maintained
their defence in the most heroic manner
until succour arrived, but only 5 of
them survived. Blandan himself was
amongst the slain.
51 kil. BUdah. 8893 inhab.
The word Blidah is a corruption of
Bolcida, the Arabic diminutive of
Bdad, a city.
Under the Romans Blidah was a
military station, and it was occupied
as such by the Turks. It was entirely
destroyed by an earthquake in 1825,
but was very soon rebuilt on the
same site. During the first year of
the French occupation the inhabi-
tants of Blidah frecjuently resisted the
French army. On the 26th of July
1830 they attacked the expeditionary
column under General de Bourmont ;
they had a severe engagement with
Marshal Clauzel on the 19th of Nov-
.SVcf. TI
ROrTF. 10. BI.IDAII
107
eiuhrr I'olldwiiii^ ; tlicy sulisi'iUK-iitly
joined the coiililiou organised Ijy the
lieutenants of Ahd-el-Kiulci', and were
severely i)unished by the Due de
Rovigo in 183*2, and liy the Conite de
Damreinont in 1837.
Tlie treaty of the Tafna put an
end to these wars. Bliduh wa.s cedid
to France, and Marshal Valee took
])OSsession of it on the 3d of May
1838.
The growtli of fniit trees, especially
the orange trilie, is increasing in a re-
markalile manner, and large (juantities
of oranges are sold in the market
of Algiers and exported to France.
The situation of Hlidah is exceed-
ingly beautiful, at the foot of the first
slopes of the Atlas Mountains, whose
summits overshadow the town ; while
on tiie other side the Metidja plain
stretches as far as the Sahel hills and
the coast.
It is a ]>leasant I'esidence for a few
days, especially about April, when the
trees begin to put i'orth their leaves,
and th(! air for miles round is jicrfunietl
with the scent of the orange blossoms.
The water supjilj' is so abundant, and
has lu'cn regulated with such care,
tluit the environs are a succession of
gardens, the roads are well shaded
with trees, and there are charming
promenades in every direction. The
climate is distinctly colder than Algiers
in wintei', cooler ])erha])S in spring,
but 7nucii warmer than the hejghts of
Mustal'a in summer. It is a good
centre from which to make expeditions,
as the hours of departure of the trains
are later and moi'e convenient than at
Algiers.
, Tiie I'lacc (rytriiics is the jiiincipal
square in the town. This I'lace is
surrounded by areaded houses, anil
planted with two rows of trees. The
gates are called^the Fortes d'Alger,
(lu Camp des Chasseurs, de Bizot,
i)a1) Zaouia, Bab er-Rabali, and Bab
es-Sebt. The military buildings at
Blidah are on an extensive scab', the
IliirriicLi accommodating 3000 men, and
there are also larg(^ tavalr}' quaiters.
Th(! Cnvalri/ Ihirmcks (inil Stud
should be visited for the sake of seeing
the stallion.s, whi(di are frequently of
the l)('st Aral) races, 'i'here is staldiuL'
for 300 liorses.
The most interesting ])romenad.
in the vicinity are — the various oi-ange
gardens, the Jardin Bizot, outside the
gate of that name, the BoLs sarr^, a
grouj) of magnificent olive trees in the
l)ublic gardens to the AV. of the city,
and, at a distance of about 2 ni. be-
yond the walls, in the ravine of the
Ow'l d-Kfbir, at the head of which are
the Koubbas of Sidi Ahmul rl-Kcbir
(who died in l.'JSO), and his two sons.
These are like most of the other koubbas
of the Arab marabouts, but are well
worth visiting, on account of the
liietures(iue beauty of the ravine in
which they are .situated.
Interesting fetes take jilace annually
here on the Frophet's birthday (J/oK/iW
en-Nebi), the 12th and 13th of Jiabia
d-Owcl.
A few yards beyond the cemetery is
the Fontaine fratche on the left bank,
a perennial source of pure water,
which, rising from the mountainside,
beneath a huge rock on which a vast
karoub is growing, is carried in an
undergiound aipieduct to IMidah ; it
pa.sses twice beneath the bed t)f the
river. The fountain is covered by an
ugly brick building erected in 186(').
Above this spot the valley divides ;
the branch to the right has a good road
l)racticable for horses or mules, and is
extremely ]iictures(iue, well woodrd
and cultivated. After about a mile it
widens, and in the sj)ace thus afforded
is the village of Bcni Salc/i, lialf
hidden by luxuriant jdantations of
orange and lig. The jiath continues
through most i)ictures(|ue .scenery uji
to the very cedars of Jiini Sithih, and
is well worthy of being ex])lonMi.
Another interesting exi'ursion is the
ascent of the nio>intain of Jlini Saln/i,
5379 ft. high, due south of Blidali,
which can easily be done on mules in
one day. Each mule costs f) f. , njid a
guide 3 f.
The farm called Ln Ohiciirf is
reachcil in '2 hrs. ; it belongs to M.
Laval, propriftor of the eafi^ on the 8,
side of the Flace d'Annes nt Blidiih,
who is nlwiiys most courteous to tra-
vellcr.<i, and will permit them to p,Tvs
ir.H
nnuTR 10. Ar/!Ti;RH to oran
A hjaria
llii' iii^^lit in liis liousi; sliDuld iJicy
desire to do so. IIu is bu.siud in re-
ciaiiiiiiif; his concession, and has some
liirivinf,' plantations of conifers and
I'licstnuts, also sliecp and cattle. I!ut
his chief occujjation is the collection
of snow in his ylacierci for use in
suninier.
Froni this point a walk of 45 niin.
brings one to the summit, where two
solitary cedars form a conspicuous
landmark from Blidah ; the largest
measures Ih ft. in girth.
Hence the traveller should walk
along the ridge to the westward in
order to enjoy the view from the
various summits, and the beautiful
lawns and gullies, studded with wild
flowers, which divide one group from
another. The view from the higliest
peak, about f m. from where the
ridge is first gained, is singularly
beautiful ; at this point the Atlas
bends towards the S. , affording a view
of its S. flanks, wooded with cedars,
and often confused, barren ridges, that
are piled one above the other as
far as the eye can see, with Djurd-
jura in the distance. To the N., the
spurs and valleys that descend into
the plain of the Metidja, with towns
and villages, and again bounded by
the Sahel ; to the AV. , Chenuoua, the
Tombeau de la Chretienne, Kolea,
different points in the Sahel range ; and
in the extreme W. there is in clear
weather a fine view of Ouaransenis.
It is quite easy walking along the
highest part of the ridge so far, as it
preserves a uniform breadth of about
100 metres, and is generally carpeted
with turf.
Pursuing the walk, in less than 3
hrs. the traveller arrives at the Kouhba
of Sidi Ahd-d-Kadcr El-l)jilani, a
walk of exceeding beauty. This is
one of the numerous koubbas erected
in honour of the founder of the most
ancient and popular religious confra-
ternity in the country. Sidi Ahd-cl
Kadcr was a native of Djilau, in Persia,
and died at Baghdad about a.d. 1165.
He was the patron of the poor and
afflicted, who solicit without ceasing
alms in his name. The superior (kha-
lifa) of the sect resides at Baghdad,
iind has Mulluiddcmn, or Chiihhs, all
over North Africa, as local representa-
tives of the order. The celebrated
namesake of this saint, the Amir Abd-
el-Kailer, made a pilgrimage to his
tomb, with his father, Mahi-ed-Din,
when about 19 years of age.
The cedars are not to be compared
with those of Tcnicl ; they are much
smaller, liut they have the form and
character of the larger ones, and few will
be found not to admire the forest after
walking through it for half an hour.
From the Kouhha the descent lies by
some old glacieres and a spring of pure
water, and the tourist who went east-
wards on leaving Blidah will return to
it from the west, having passed entirely
round the head waters of the Oued-el-
Kebir.
Another excursion may be made to
the Gorge of the Chiffa and the Ruis-
seau des Singes (see p. 148).
56 kil. The line crosses the Chiffa by
an iron bridge.
58 kil. La Chiffa. Here the diligence
for iledeah meets the train (see Rte. 7).
63 kil. Mouza'iaviUc. 810 inhab.
This village was completely destroj-ed
by the earthquake of January 1867, by
which the adjoining village of La Chifta
was also thrown down. Of 75 houses
not one remained entire, and 40 lives
were lost.
7 kil. to the S., under the Pic de
Mouzaia, is the stud farm of Mr. Smith,
an American gentleman well known in
the racing world.
About 500 metres S.E. of the village,
at a place called El-Hadjeb, were the re-
mains of the Roman post Tanaramusa
Castra, where were found, amongst
other things, a statue of Bacchus, and
a tumulary inscription of Bishop Dona-
tus, killed in the war with the Mauri-
tanians, and buried here in a.d. 493.
69 kil. El-Affroun, an agricultural
colony was established in 1848. 870
inhab. This also suffered cruelly from
the earthquake of 1867 ; one only of its
100 houses escaped destruction, and
12 people perished. It is an annexe
of the commune of Mouza'iaville, and
traversed by the OuM Djcr, which
unites with the Cliiffa to form the
Mazafran river. In the bed of the
!^rrf. TT
ROTTE 10. TFAMMAM u'riiHA
ino
Oucd D.jt'V, wliich the line traverses a
kilonu'tre W. ol' the station, is a spring
of alkaline and gaseous water not un-
like tliat of St. Galniier.
78 kil. Ouccl Djcr.
91 kil. Bou Mcdfa. TOi inliab.
['J'his is the station for tlie liaths of
Hammam R'Irha(niore correctly Kiglia),
12 kil. An omnibus meets the mail
trains irom Algiers and takes travellers
to the establishment, at a cost of 2 f.
50 c. each person, without luggage.
For a carriage (15 f. ) it is necessary
to write beforehand. The road, after
crossing the railway and the Oued Djer,
follows its left bank as far as 4 kil., the
iron bridge, over which the route to
Milianah strikes left. The road con-
tinues to ascend the left liank of the
river, now called Oued el-IIanimam.
At 5 kil. it branches olf lel't from the
j\Iarengo road, and shortly begins the
ascent by numerous zigzags to Ham-
mam R'lrha, 1800 ft.
The thermal springs occupy the site
of the ancient Roman station of Aqtuc
Culidn:. Nothing of any importance
remains, l)ut the fragments sullice to
attest that it must have been a place of
considerable importance.
The view from here is very beautiful.
To the E. are seen the high jieaks of
Derouagia and Ben Chicao, and on a
clear day some of the buildings of
Medeah can even be distinguished. In
front, on the opposite side of the valley,
is the village of Vesoul I'enian (see
below), and to the right is the remark-
able mountain of Zakkar, which rises
above Milianah.
Hotels.— TAf G'rand HMd and Elah-
Usscmnit dcs Bains (pension, 12 to 14
f. ), surrounded by a beautiful garden , to-
gether with the hot springs themselves,
are the ]>roperty of Al. Alfonse Arles-
Dufour, to whom also belongs the Belle-
vui\ a building about 100 yards lower
down the hill. It comprises a Civil
J/ospital, as well as a second-class hotel
(pension, 9 f. ) //. dc Fntiirr, in tlie
village, homely (jiension, 5 f. )
The waters of Ilammam li'Irha are
of two kinds — 1st, the hot .saline
springs, the heat of which is about
158' Fahr. ;it their source, used for tii
baths ; and 2d, the ga.seousand slightly
ferruginous springs, which are used for
drinking. The Ibrnier contain chlorides
of sodium and magnesium, a.s well as
sulphates of soda, magnesia, and lime.
One of the latter, called by the Arabs
Ain el-Karis, issues from a pavilion in
the village, at an ea.sy walk from the
hotel. It constitutes a most refreshing
drink, and mi.xes well with wine. The
elfert of these waters on persons sud'er-
ing from rheumatic or gouty atfections
is most beneficial. It is the only jilaee
within moderate distance of Kuroite
where jiatients can undergo a course of
baths tluring the winter with safety.
.March, April, aiid November are con-
sidered the best months.
The Baths are of three grades : —
1st. Those in the liaseinent of the Graml
Hotel, wliicli are .supplied ilireet frorii the
source. They consist of two I'iscims, 30 ft.
X 1.5 ft. The water in the cool one is kept
at a temperature of iH.l° Faln\, tliat in the hot
one .it 110" Falir. Tlie.v are open fri>ni (i till 8
A.M. and 4 till i'..M. for men, and from S till
10 A.M. and •> till 4 r.M. for women. Patients
on leaving the baths, enveloped in blankets,
recline for some minutes on couches in an a<l-
.joining chamber, and then usuall.v return to
their iirivate rooms, where they arc reeom-
nunded to go to bed for 1 or IJ hr. Tickets
for these baths are supplied at the bureau for
1 f. .OO c. No one is jiermitt^'d to take the
baths without the advice of the resident doc-
tor. There are no iirinitc baths at the Grand
Hotel.
2d. Those in the Belleviie or Civil Hospital.
—Public (1 f), private (1 f. .00 c.) The tem-
perature of these baths does not exceed 104'
Kihr. They are somewhat devoid of comforts,
and are not recommended for ladies or invalids.
:!d. Those which are eoutined solely to the
use of Arabs— situated below the Bellevue.
The Mi Ulan/ Ilosjdtal, to "W. of tlie
Ik'llevue, was founded in 1841.
iMany jdeasant walks and excursions
may be made in the neighbourhood : —
To the beautifid pine forest of El-
Ghaiba, which clothes the .slojics of the
neighliouring mountains, and in which
there are numerous footpaths. It com-
mences 2 kil. to W.
To the Tombcaa dc la Chrdicmu',i\\\\t
of 3A hr.s. (carriage about 30 f.) S«i
Ute."2.
To Milianah, drive of 4 lirs. or ri<b
over the liills of 3 lir.s. (carriage abou:
35 f.) See below.
To the summit of /alkar, walk <it
IVo
itoiTi': I 0. Ai,(;ii':i!s to riuAX
A hjprid
10 hrs. tliciv iiiul liai.'k : ;i(lvis:ilile in
tal<(! a f^iiido.
To tliu Jlariii dii VoJeur, on tlio
Mari;iij,'o road. About 2 lir.s'. drive to
the Aiii)orcrc Gaspard, where good cofl'ee
can 1)0 had.
For sportsmen there is abundance of
small ^'ame, and oven wild boar, so that
a low days or weeks may be spent very
[ileasantly at this establishment.]
98 kil. Vrsovl Beniaii. The village
is situated at about 5 kil. to the S. of
the line, on tlie top of n high hill,
looking down into tlie Oued el-Hani-
mam, and exactly facing the batliing
establishment of Hamman K'Irlia. It
was founded l)y Marochal Kaiidon in
18.5.3, on a spot called by the Arabs Ain-
Jjenian ; it was peopled by 43 families
sent over froni Vesoul in the Hante-
Saone, numbering 223 persons, and
having at their disposal 270,000 f. to
enable them to commence work. A
concession of 30 acres was given to
each, and now the village is in a high
state of prosperity.
105 kil. Oucd Zehomlj, a small vil-
lage to the S. of the line, in a very
feverish district.
110 kil. Adclia. The line pas.ses
through a tunnel 2200 metres in length,
and there attains its maximum eleva-
tion, being 500 metres above the level
of tlie sea ; after which it descends
rapidly, passing another and shorter
tunnel. There is a road hence to
Milianah, by which the distance is
shortened one-half. An omnibus meets
each train.
120 kih AflFreville.
Named al'tcr iMgr. AllVe, Archbishop
of Paris, killed on the barricades of
Paris, in June 1848, when endeavouring
to stay tlie further effusion of blood.
His last words were, " Pastor bonus dat
vitam pro ovibus suis."
A diligence starts on the arrival of the
train for Teniet-el-Ahd (see Kte. 5).
[The traveller can sleep at Affreville
if necessary, but if his destination be
Milianah he will jn'ofor to go there at
once Viy private carriage, ordered before-
liand from the hotel, or by the omni-
buses which come to meet every train.
Milianah, 8 kil. to tlio N. 30!»0 inhab.
IJoautifuUy situated on a plateau of
the Zakkdr mountain, the highest sum-
mits of which attain a height of about
5000 ft., and command splendid views
over the plain of the Chelif.
The route from Affreville is extremely
tortuous, following the course of the
llontan, a river descending from the
Zakkar by numerous cascades, but it
may be greatly abridged by foot pas-
sengers. The ascent takes nearly
an hour and a half in a carnage.
The drive is one of great beauty,
amongst well -watered gardens, pro-
ducing both the semi-tropical fruits
common in Algeria and those of more
northern countries, alternating with
spots where the hand of man ajipears
never to have interfered with the
natural vegetation of the place.
The modern town is built on the site
of the Roman Malliana, some traces of
which now remain in fragments of
columns and liroken pieces of sculpture.
After the decline of Tlemren, A.u.
1500, the inhabitants declared them-
selves free, but Were placed by Baba
Aroudj under the dominion of the
Turks. In 1830 the Emperor of
j\Iorocco took possession of the town ;
and in 1834 Abd-el-Kader installed Ali
Ben-Embarek as caliph.
The French first marched against
Milianah in June 1840, and found it
deserted by the Arabs, who liad set it
on fire. The garrison left by them was
lilockaded by Abd-el-Kader for a long
time, and suffered severely from disease
and famine. AVhen it was relieved sub-
sequently by General Changarnier, of its
garrison of 1200 men 700 were dead,
400 in hospital, and the remainder
were hardly able to carry their arms.
Had tlie relief been delayed but a few
days longer the place would have fallen
for want of defenders.
The plateau of the mountain on
whicli Milianali stands is about 2400 ft.
above the sea level. The town is well
Iniilt and clean. In the centre of the
Place is an old Jloorish minaret, now
used as a clock-tower. The Arab town
and houses have been entirely replaced
by modern Frencli streets, the principal
of which are bordered with plane-trees,
.SVvt TI
ROUTF. 10. MII.IANAII
171
and have streams of water niniiinj^dow n
either side of tlie road. They are
especially pleasant in summer and
early spiin^, and the view of the plain
of tlie C'helif from the walls is line at
all times.
M ilianah is surrounded;hy a bastioned
wall, in which are two <.(ates, viz. the
J'urtcs dit Zakkar and cV (Jrltansvillc.
There are barracks for both infantry
and cavalry, and a military hos2)ilal,
makinj,' up 500 beds.
The Catholic Church is a poor build-
in<{ in the Place de I'Eglise ; and ol
the 2.'» mosi[ues which formerly existed
in Milianah, there now remains but one
of any importance. The Kunhha of Sidl
Mohaiiimcd ben- Yussef is worth a visit.
A Normal School for European and
native female teachers was instituted
hen; in 1875.
The town is lighted by electricity,
the dynamos being worked by water
power.
The environs arc very picturescpie,
especially to the S., where the road
from Affreville passes through a ravine
luxuriantly wooded. The Avemic of
JUidnh is th(! favonrit(> ])romenadc ;
and without the walls are many fertile
gardens, watered by the streams which
descend from the Zakkar mountain.
Just beyond the gate is a public
garden, a favourite evening promenade
in summer, which used to be well kept
up under the Empire, but which has
been greatly neglected since.]
After leaving Affreville, the line
enters the plain of the Chelif (see p.
81). Tiie traveller who passes through
it in winter, and mucli more in spring,
will see before him, as far as the eye
can reach, a sheet of verdure diversiiied
by masses of wild flowers of start-
ling brilliancy. But in summer the
aspect is very ditl'erent ; the whole
country is burnt up as if by a prairie
fire ; not a blade of green is visible ; the
heat is intense ; and even the earth
appears to be baked to the consistency
of stout!, and reticulated all over with
wide and gaping fissures.
124 kil. Lararandr, named after the
general of that naUK; killrd licfore
Sebastopol.
IJetwet II this and Duperii- (lie road
crosses the river Clielif by an iron
bridge. The remains of a Roman one
are visible about 100 yards lower down
the stream on the right.
138 kil. Lc.s ylribs, created in 1S79.
146 kil. Dupcrrt, the name c)f tlie
admiral commanding the French licet
in 1830. 523 inhab. The creation of
this village dates from 1859, when- 50
families brought direct from France
were established here. Near this have
been dis<overed the remains of the
ancient town of (>}ijnduin Novum, to
which succeeded the Arab town of EI-
Khculcra, mentioned by Kl-Bckri.
The name of this city was identified
byan inscription found by Commandant
lioblaye in 1842, recording that a monu-
ment was erected to a local dignitary,
C'aius Ulpius, by public subscription,
are conlato appido novo.
ICO kil. Oucd liouina, a village Iniilt
by the Societe Generale Algcrienne, on
the west bank of the Oucd Kouina,
which river comes from the mountains
of Teniet-el-Ahd and falls into the
Chelif close to the station. Its waters,
when preserved by a barrage, will irri-
gate 4300 acres of land in the valh-y of
the Chelif. Near it are the ruins of a
Roman town.
At 4 kil. from the station, on the
left bank of the stream, is a consider-
able deposit of iron ore.
170 kih Ht. Cypricn dcs Attafi. Not
far from the station of Les Attafs is a
village of Christian Arabs, ,S7. Cijjirii n,
founded by Cardinal Luvigerie, Ardi-
bishop of Algiers in 1874, and peoplcil
with young Arabs rescued by him during
the famine of 18(57. It is exclusively
an agricultural village under ('(-(desias-
tical control ; it 'has a jiopulation of
203 inhabitants, a church, a mission-
house, and an establishment of sisters.
It is in a idgh state of ]>rosi)erity.
Labour is held in honour amongst the
converts, and even the hours of eom-
nu-ncing and finishing it are regulated
by the .sound of the cliurch bell. The
cure is also maire, and the sistei-s show
the example of working in the fields to
the Aral) women, who gladly follow
their exami>le. This is one of the most
i interesting uxperiment.s that has l>een
172
ROUTIO 10. ALGIERS TO ORAN
A Ifjeria
iiiailc ill Ali^'oria, .'iiid sliows wliat can
be done with Arabs Ijj' means of religion.
A little to the ca.st of the village i.s the
large and hand.soin(; Hospital of Ste.
Klizabeth, also built by the Cardinal
for the use of the Arab tribes in the
])lain of the Clielif. This was solemnly
inaugurated by liim on the 5th of
February 1876, and named in comj)li-
7iient to Madame Wollf, wife of the
general commanding the division. On
the N. side of the line, a little farther to
the E. , is a small village, Ste. iMoni(|ue,
also occupied by Christian Arabs.
173 kil. Lcs Altafs. An Arab market
every Wednesday. At a little distance
on the left of the line are the ruins of
Djchcl Temoulga, a Roman camp, and
on the right those of Oued Taghia,
identified as the Roman station of
Tiijauda Mnnicipium, consisting of a
long a(|ueduct and the foundations of
public buildings and ramparts. These
are called by the Arabs Kasr Bint-cs-
Sultan, palace of the Sultan's daughter.
183 kil. Temo7i7ga. A station con-
structed for the inirjiose of taking in
the iron ore from the mines of Dj.
Temoulga, situated 3 kil. to the S.
In cousec|uence, however, of the ex-
pense of transport the works have been
suspended.
The Oued Fodda is here crossed by
an iron bridge of one arch. The stream
has a course of 100 kil. from its source
in the highest peak of Ouaranscnis, of
which a beautiful view is here obtained.
This mountain is one of the highest
in Algeria, the culminating point. Kef
Sidi Omar, being 6500 ft. above the
sea. The ascent is from the E. side
of the mountain, through a rich and
well-watered country and magnificent
forests ; a very extensive view is ob-
tained from the summit.
186 kil. Oued Fodda. A village
created by the military authorities,
represented by General "Wolff command-
ing the division of Algiers, in a portion
of the plain, capable of abundant irri-
gation by the water of the Oued Fodda
(silver stream). When the necessary
dams are constructed this will probably
become one of the principal centres of
colonisation in the valley of the Chelif.
195 kil. Lc JBarrage. A station so
called irom a baiTagc or dam of the
Chelif, a work of great importance.
The preceding is a better station from
which to visit it. This is hardly an
excursion which we recommend to the
general traveller. The road is difficult
and bad (2 hrs. by light carriage), and
during the greater part of the winter the
whole masonry is under water — nothing
but a lake and a cataract is vi-sible.
Still it is possible to do it in the inter-
vals between the morning and evening
trains to Orleansville.
From the coniluence of the Oued
Fodda and the Chelif, for a distance of
12 kil., the united rivers flow through
a steep and rocky bed. A jioint has
been chosen at about 4^ kil. from .the
junction, at which to establish a barrage
de derivation 85 metres wide and 11 '75
metres high, intended to irrigate an
area of 12,000 hectares, of which about
4000, situated on the left bank, include
the town of Orleansville.
The right bank is watered by a
canal crossing the Chelif a little above
Ponteba. The entire length of the
canals will be about 90 kil. , of which
16^ will be the common stream, 23^
the Orleansville branch, and 50 the
branch for the right bank of the river.
It is calculated that the volume of
water in the Chelif during the driest
season of the year, from the 15th July
to the 15th September, does not fall
below li metre cube per second, and
often attains 3 metres. During the
rest of the summer it varies from 3 to
5 metres, and in winter it increases
from 50 to 400 metres per second. The
canals have been calculated, however,
to contain 3 cubic metres per second.
The waterfall has been utilised for
supplying the motive power with which
to furnish Orleansville with electric
light.
203 kil. Pontiha, a small village
close to the bank of the Chelif.
209 kil. Orleansville. Sous prefec-
ture, with an area of 232,489 hectares.
The city has a population of 2270
inhabitants.
Orleansville is a town of some im-
portance ; the area enclosed by its
defences is very gi'eat, but a small
portionjonly of it has been built over.
Sect. II
ROUTE 10. ORLfeA^'SVILLE
173
The streets are wide, ami all l)ordere(l
with trees. The Barracks are exten-
sive, accominodatiiig 3000 men and
1000 horses ; and the MiUtury I/osjntal
can furnish 50ii beds. An abundant
supply of water from the TsKjIuwut, 3
kil. S. of tile town, has been brought
into the town by two conduits ; this is
of a very bad quality, and is only useful
for purposes of irrigation, washing, etc.
Orleansville was for a long time with-
out good water ; fortunately in digging
for a well in the communal nursery
garden, an underground stream of ex-
cellent quality was discovered, which is
raised by means of a steam engine into
reservoirs, and now supplies the town
and railway.
An important Arab market, held near
the Porte dc Milianah every Saturday
and Sunday, is attended by more than
10,000 natives, who bring horses, cattle,
and the produce of Ouaranscnia for sale.
Tiie value of the goods exhibited at
these markets is said sometimes to
reach £12,000.
The situation of Orleansville, stand-
ing as it docs in the extensive plain of
the Chelif, cannot be called i>icturesque,
although it is surrounded at a consider-
al)le distance by hills. It was formerly
entirely destitute of trees, but the
Forest Department has made large
])lautations of Aleppo pines and other
trees around the town, which have
succeeded very well, and now afford a
grateful shade to the inhabitants.
Hetween these and the walls the space
has been ]ilanted with Australian trees,
so that Orleansville is actually one of
tile most shady places in the country.
Tliis was much recpiired, as the heat in
siiinmer is very gi'eat ; the climate,
however, is not unhealthy. The town
has been founded on the .site of the
Roman Castcllutn. TinfjUunum, and is
called liy the Arabs EI-Eanam, signify-
ing "the Idols," in consc(|ucnce of
the numerous pieces of sculpture having
lieen found in the locality. In 1843 a
tine mosaic was discovcreil, executed in
lilack, red, and white, ornamented by
live inst:ri|)tioiis, one of wliieh is the
epitaph of St. Rejiaratus, who died in
tiie year 436 of tiie Mauritanean era,
and another refers to the foundation of
the Basilicii, of which this mosaic forme^l
the floor in the year 862 of the .same
era, corresponding to A.i>. 325. There
are also two curious s|H;cimens of abra-
cadabra on the words S.\ncta Kci.ksia
{sic) and Satukni.nls Saceiidos, of
whicli we give the former on the
authority of M. I'iesse : —
a I S E L C E C L E S I A
I .S E L C E A E C L E S I
S E L C E A T A E C L E S
E L C E A T C T A E C L E
LCEATCXCTAECL
CEATONANCTA EC
E A T (J N A S A N C T A E
CEATCNANCTAEC
LOEATCNCTAECL
ELCEATCTAECLE
SELCEATAECL ES
IS E L C E A E C L E .S I
AISELCEC LE.SI A
The mosaic was at once covered up
to preserve it from destruction, and it
so remains (1889) concealed from view.
It is, however, proposed to make it the
prominent feature in the Square in front
of the covered market. In the inscrip-
tion in question the word Ecclesia is
spelt witii only one c. It commences
with the letter s in the centre of the
seventh line, whence the words proceed
many times in every direction. Tiie
lifth inscription contains only the words
Skmi'er Pax.
There is another mosaic in the garden
of the Military Hospital ; it appears to
have been the lloor of a batli. It con-
tains a representation of a hunting
scene ; in the upper portion two men are
attacking a wild boar, and in the lower
a panther is advancing towards an un-
armed rider ; it also bears the inscrip-
tion : —
.SIl.UiVA FKEQVENS FOVEA.S MK.A
MEMBKA LAVACRO.
Orleansville was definitely occupied
by the French in April 1843.
[An excursion may be made to Oaar-
ansenis ; the name is more correctly
(humcltirich, pri>lialdy a ISerber cor
ruption of the Latin .1 lu/iora rias. Tiii-
17 I
UOUTK 10. AI.CJIERH TO OltAN
Algeria
iiiiiy he (loin; in <iiii' il.iy l)y carriaj^e, and
t licit' is a iiiirilj octtiijiicd l>ytiie adiniiii.s-
Iratorol' tiic district, at which a traveller
could possibly obtain accoinnio<lati(jn.
The scciierv is very fine.]
A sliort distance from Orleansvillc
the line cros.ses tlie TighnoiU, 209 kil. ;
the Oiwd Lalla Ouda, 210 kil. ; the
Oiicd Arousa, 215 kil. ; the Oued Si
Sliiiian, 21C kil. ; and arrives at
224 kil. Oticd Sly, a village created
by the Societe Geiierale Algerienne, on
the river of the same name, an affluent
of tlie Chclif. A barrage constructed
lu'i-e irrigates about 12,000 acres of land.
This is on the boundary between the
lirovinces of Algiers and Oran.
232 kil. Bow Kadir or Charron.
243 kil. Merdjd. The land about here
is inarsliy and extremely unhealthy.
The marsh of Sidi Abid, from which
it derives its name, abounds in ante-
lope. Bustards also arc occasionally
found here.
2.54 kil. Oued Riou. The name of a
stream descending from the Ouaransenis
to the Chelif
Near the station is the village of
lukerman, one of the most prosperous
ill the valley of the Chelif, and the re-
sidence of the administrator of the dis-
trict.
It is well watered, has an important
cattle and grain market, and quarries
of excellent stone, similar to that ob-
tained from Malta and Port Mahon in
the Balearic Islands.
[.\n excursion well worth making
from this place is to Mazouna, the
capital of the Dahra, or the mountain-
ous ridge which lies between the Chelif
and the sea. There is a regular series
of omnibuses from Inkerman to Re-
nault, and the driver for a small
extra gratuity will gladly take the
traveller to Mazouna, either going to
or returning from Renault.
A tolerably good road leads from the
railway station, crossing the Chelif by
a liridge at a place where Si El-Kahal
bin Awal, brother of Si El-Arbi, Khalifa
of the Chelif and the ilinn, has a house.
An important Arab market is held on
the right bank every Friday.
A few kilometres farther tlie road
begins the ascent of tlie Dahra, a name
which signifies hack in Arabic. It de-
scribes well the a[)pearance of these hills
from the S. ; on entiance tliey are found
broken up into a multitude of ridges, the
highest of which is about 600 metres
above the sea. The Jjahra, both in re-
spect to its physical conformation and
its population, is a miniature Kabylia ;
but though it long maintained its inde-
pendence, and even acted an important
part in the early JMoorish wars and
revolutions, it was conquered by the
Arabs in the 14tli century and jiartly oc-
cupied by them. The language' spoken
is Arabic, with an infusion of Berber
words.
Ill the communal douar of Ouarizane,
at the foot of the mountain, there is a
station of the remount. Five or six
stallions from Mostaganem are usually
ke^it here.
At 18 kil. from the station there is a
wayside fountain, the onl}^ fresh water
since leaving the Chelif, and at 21 kil.
the road crosses the Oued Temda, an
affluent of the Ouarizane, and enters a
beautiful valley fertilised by copious
springs and laid out in gardens and
orchards. To the right is the village
of Oulad Mizian, where the road to
ilazouna branches oft", and to the left,
that of Oulad Sidi El-Akhdar; the
route now skirts the west side of an
undulating basin of excellent land, and
soon reaches
29kih The village of iJc7ift!<7(;. This
was founded in 1845, and called after a
general of that name who had passed a
great part of his service in Algeria, and
had assisted at the campaign which
resulted in the surrender of Kabylia.
He subsequently fell at the siege of
Paris.
The village is in a highly prosperous
condition, and contains several aubergcs,
all tolerably comfortable. It is built
in a plain, 3 or 4 kil. in diameter,
surrounded by a chain of low hills. A
mamelon, crowned by a fort, divides it
into two portions, each of which con-
tains aboiit 50 houses. There can be
no doubt that this was a Roman sta-
tion ; a building of cut stone was dis-
covered within the site of the present
Sect. II
UOUTli lU. MAZOLNA
175
Donlj, wliicli was unfortunately de-
stroyed to provide materials for Ituildiiig
the church steeple. The writer saw on
the spot a Konian jai', perfectly well
preserved, 3 metres iu circumfer-
ence ; it was covered with stamps, one
only of which was legible, it contained
the letters indeow.
About 12 kil. to the N. may be
seen the ruins of a Roman fortified
jiosition. On each siilc arc [josterns
and staircases, cut in the solid rock,
and numerous columns, cisterns, and
remains of houses still exist.
From this village a good road of about
;") kil. long leads to JIazouna, but the
traveller will generally find it more
convenient to branch olT from the vil-
lage of Oulad Mizian, and after having
visited JIazouna, go on to Renault to
pass the night.
Coming close to Mazouwi, a view-
bursts upon the traveller which would
rei)ay a long journey. The hills above
are bare and barren, but over against
Mazotiiui, and on the opposite side of
the ravine of A'in- Tounda, a denser
loresl of fruit trees rises high up th(^
bill, and spreads far down towards the
valley of the Chclif ; and as the gardens
composing it are watered, it is of the
deei>est green all through the summer.
Probably nowhere else docs native cul-
tivation offer so pleasing an aspect.
'Die trees cultivated are the apricot,
jii^megranate, plum, quince, lemon,
almond, jujube, pear, with a few peach,
olive, karoul), and fig, but this last
jiioduces the best fruit on unirrigated
ground.
Miizonnn, with the suburli of L'oii-
lldlloufii, on the opposite side of the
ravine, has a population of '2000 ; that
of the whole tribe, which owns 6U,000
acres, is 4500. The only Euroiiean
in the town is a French schoolmaster
a})pointed by (iovernment. Notiiing
is manufactured here except a few
bricks and a little pottery, which is
sometimes painted by tlie women, like
the Kabyle vessels. It is said in
Mazouna that one-half of the popula-
tion is Turkish by descent, but tiie men
have mostly Arab features. The young
girls are pretty.
Desceiidin'' through the town to the
bottom of the ravine, tlie visitor will
come to a small but pictures<|ue cascade.
The stream has worn for itself a deep
channel, and falls into a jiool below.
The rocks around are liung with
ferns and creeping plants, " amongst
which, and beliind tlie waterfall, a
bathing place has been screened off, by
a dry stone wall, fiom public observa-
tion. In the market-place above, a
well -grown aspen tree is pointed out,
which was jilanted l)y the messengers
who brought to Mazouna the news of
the French landing at Algiers.
The Dahra has a pop. of 22,000,
governed by Kaids. 'i'ho.se of Herber
descent live in stone villages, the Arabs
in tents ; the latter are most numerous
near the Chelif, the former in the
mountains. The soil is fertile ami the
climate temperate, and it is hoi)ed that
in a few years there will be a consider-
alde European population here.
From Inkcrman there is a regular
service of omnibuses to Ammi Moiissa,
a military station.
At 14 kil. from this town, on the
left of the road leading to Orleansville,
is the interesting Roman ruin called
Kaoua. It was evidently a citadel
built of large fiiiely-cut stone, sur-
rounded by a wall, all being in so
perfect a condition that the minutest
details of cisterns, stal)les, stairca.ses,
etc., are visible. On the keystone of
the entrance gate is sculjitured a crown,
within which is the inscription Si'Ks .
IX. Deo. Fekixi. Amen. The name
of Ferinus is unknown ; he was i)rob-
abl)' some local magnate living aliout
the 4th century. Tluio are many other
Roman remains in tln' district "f Ammi
Moussa.j
263 kil. La Djidioitui or SI. Aiitte,
a village created in 1S72, and named
after .Madame Osmond, wife of the
general commanding the prnvinee.
The Oued Djidiouia is a little to the
cast of the town, and aliout 7 kil.
farther \\\\ there is a barrage well
worthy of a visit. The ilyke or dam
is built of cut stonu and hydraulic
cement. It is fiO metres in length, 17
in height, above the foundution.s, which
170
ROUTE 10. ALGIKK8 J'O OKAN
Algeria
liavu ii lartlicr ilciitli of 11 iiit'trcs ; tlic
lirujidth at llio base is 11 iiii;tre.s, and
at tlie to]) 4 mi-trcs. Tlii.s contains a
lake winding,' amongst the hills to a
distance of 'Ih kil., and containing
'2,r)0(i,000 nu'trc'S of water. Tlie canal
runs along the S. and E. sides of an
amphitiieatre of hills, and traversing
a tunnel 224 metres in length, reaches
Ste. Aiine, and passes ou to another
village farther to the W., called Ha-
niadana, created in 1876. It is cal-
culated that this water, besides sup-
]ilying the villages, will irrigate about
3400 hectares. The great difliculty
regarding these barrages is to pre-
vent them lilling up with sand washed
down by the rain. When the writer
visited this in April 1877, the build-
ing was not finished, nor the water
let into the canal, and yet there were
3 metres of mud at the barrage. Since
then it has become almost entirely
silted up. It was commenced in October
1874, and cost 480,000 f., including
150,000 for canalisation.
To the P]. of Ste. Aime, in an old
bed of the Djidiouia, are the remains
of what is called a Roman liarrage ; the
construction is of large blocks of con-
crete, without any trace of cut stone,
and neither in the stjde of masonry
nor in its outline does it resemble the
work of that great peo])le. It is more
probalile that it was the work of the
Tlem^en dynasty.
283 kil. Lcs Salines. So called from
the salt lake of Sidi Bou Zain, to the
right of the line, containing an area of
4000 acres.
296 kil. Relizane.
The country round is well irrigated,
and the town is supplied with water
from the ilina, which flows about 3
kil. to the W. At a place where the
river left the flat alluvial land, antl
l)roke in rapids to a lower level, a bar-
rage of derivation has been built. This
is simply a dyke with sluices, which
jirevents the water from entering the
rocky bed into which it formerly de-
scended, and diverts it into two lateral
canals, from which it is distributed
to the E. and W. Near the town a
force-pump sends it into a large filter
for the supply of the inhabitants.
This barrage is capable of irrigating
8000 hectares.
The name of the river is probably
taken from that of the lioman town,
the ruins of which arc still traceable a
mile or two to the S.
315 kil. miillil. A small village
forming an annexe of Kelizanc on the
Oued lllil, an affluent of the Mina, on
which there is a small barrage which
irrigates the country round about.
[An interesting expedition from
I'Hillil is to the remarkable and little-
known Arab town EI-Kalaa (the
fortress).
The kaid assured the author, who
visited it in May 1877, that he was the
first Englishman who had ever been
there, and that very few French, ex-
cept those connected with the ad-
ministration, ever found their way to
it. Nevertheless, the expedition can
be done between the arrival of the first
train from Relizane in the morning
and the departure of that to Oran at
night. A good carriage-road has been
constructed, and an omnibus runs eveiy
morning, returning in the afternoon.
The traveller should take his breakfast
with him. If he happens to occupy a
prominent position of any kind, or is re-
commended to the kaid, he is sure to be
hospitably entertained, but otherwise
he runs the risk of starvation if he de-
pends on the resources of the village.
El-Kalaa is a town of Berber origin
17 kil. S. of I'Hillil, and 36 kil.
N.E. of Mascara, picturesquely situated
on the S.W. slopes of Djebel Barber,
which descends almost perpendicularly
to the Oued Bou-Mendjil. It occupies
the mountainous centre of that massif
situated between the Mina and the
Habra, which was at one time occupied
by fractions of the great tribe of Houasa.
The village is divided into several por-
tions, each situated on a projecting spur
of the mountain, and separated from
the next by a deep ravine. The houses
are of stone, but in a dilapidated con-
dition. The place is celebrated for its
carpets, which resemlde those usually
obtained from Smyrna ; nearly 3000 are
made every year, and they are every-
where held in hisrh esteem ; the cost of
Sect. II
ROUTE 10. Kf.-KAI.AA
177
tlicni on the spot is about 10 f. asijuarc
metre. They are made by the women ;
tlie process is most cuiions, but it will
be ilillicult for the vuile stranger to ol)-
tain access to a house where they are
beiiif,' made. At the bottom of the hill,
iibinj,' the banks of the river, are beauli-
fiil gardens of fruit trees, especially
oranges and lemons. The population
is about 300. The only European in
the village is a schoolmaster, who, as
at Mazouna, is sent to teach the children
French. They are most apt inipils,
and some of their exercises are quite
astonishing.
It is uncertain whether this was ever
a Roman station, but the remains of
two cisterns still visible arc wonderfully
like the work of that jieople.
The place is said to have been built by
a chief of the Ilotiara tribe, Mohammed
ben Ishak, alxnit the middle of the Gth
century of the Hedjira, and after the
extinction of that tribe it fell into the
hands of the lieiu Rachid, a branch of
tlie Zenati, from Djebel Amour. It
eventually submitted to the sovereigns
of Tlemeen.
About the end of the 15th century
of the Christian era, on the decline of
the Ikni Zeian dynasty of Tleni(;en, the
Arab confederation, known by the name
of Mehal, declared itself independent.
They descended from the High Plateaux,
and invaded the plains of the Chclif and
the Mina, and established themselves
lirinly at Kalaa, Tenes, ilostaganem,
and Mazouna.
The Spanish occupation of Oran com-
menced about the beginning of the
l(5th century, and the I'eni Raehid
became in turns their allies and their
tributaries. This state of things con-
tinued till 1.')17, when Baba Aroudj,
whohad already taken Algiers, appeared
at the head of a Turkish army. The
-Mehal, under one of their most ccle-
lirated chiefs, Hamid cI-AIkI, were de-
feated ; Tenes and Kalaa fell into tlie
hands of the Turks, and Tleim/en opened
its gates to Aroudj ami recognised him
as its sovereign. The Sultan Abou
llammon, disjiossessed of his countiT
and ]int to Might liy the corsair, sought
the aid of the Spaniards, who, liaving
all their commeree i.ut olf Ity tiie Turks,
gladly .sent a force to replace their old
ally on his throne. It was command<-d
by Don .Martin d'Argote, who eventually
marched on Kalaa, which wa.s defended
liy Ishak, tlder brother of Aroudj,
with oQi) Turkish infantry. After a
spirited resistance he agreed to cai>itu-
late, on condition of being allowed to
leave with arms and baggage, but no
sooner had the Turks surrendered the
place than the Spaniards fell ujioii
them and put them all to death. The
Spaniards then continued their march
to Tlemcen, took that town, and
pursued Aroudj to the Rio Salailo,
when; he and all his i>eopIe were
killed.
Kalaa became subse(|uently annexed
to the regency ctf Algiers, and so con-
tinued till the Frem h coiniuest. After
the fall of the Tuiks, the ]ieopIe refus-
ing to recognise the Emir Abd-el-Kader,
he attackeii the town, and after a siege
of three days he took it and gave it up
to pillage. It submitted to the French
in 1842, joined the insurrection of IJoii
Maza in 1845, was retaken by the
French with considerable loss, since
when it has remained tolerably quiet.
Kaliia was used by the Turks as a jilaee
of deportation for all their most
turbulent soldiers, and at the present
day there are two distinct sections of
the jiopulation, the Kouloughlis or
tlescendants of Turkish fathers, and
the native race, a mixture of Berber
and Arab.
There are three other similar villages
in the neighbourhood. Tiliouaii'l on
the banks of the stream bearing the
same name, 4 kil. E. of El-Knlaa.
The word signifies coloured, on account
of the ])erin'tual verdure of the phice.
Dchba, 800 metres S. of El-Kalaa, on
the same river as that town, and
Mcsnttii, 2 kil. S. W., on the lower part
of the Oued liou-Mendjil. It was at one
time of considerable importance, but was
greatly destroyetl by laiidsli|(s in 1S4.'>.
The traveller will not fail to remark the
great number of koubb.-is, or tombs, of
local saints in every direction.]
332 kil. Oiird Mtil'ih, situati'd on a
river of that name. In tJio iminediMti-
vicinity is a village called Jiuinri, and
N
17«
ROI TK 10. ALOIEHS TO OUAN
Ahjerin
near tlio .stiilioii i.s a t lact of brushwood
called the Korcst of Kciouia.
3Ui kil. Perr^gaux. 2136 iiihah.
Named after the well-known ^'cncral
who fell at the second sie^'c ofConstan-
tiiie. Arali market every Thursday.
Tills is the plare where the railway from
Arzeu to Saida crosses the main line.
At it kil. to tlie S. is the great bar-
raife of the Oued Fergoug, constructed
i)y M. J)el)rousse. It is situated at the
junction of three streams — the Oued
l'"rr.i,'ou^', the Oued Tcfrzoug, and the
ilalira. The total length of the dam,
including the divcrsoir, is 440 metres ;
its thickness at the base is 40 metres,
and at the to]) 4i metres ; its depth
below foundation 11 metres. It forms
an immense lake, containing when full
38 millions of cubic metres of water.
On the Loth December 1881 it gave
way under the pressure of exceptionally
high floods, drowning upwards of 400
persons, besides losing all the water
su])ply, and laying dry tlie system of
iirigational canals in connection with
it. It has now been completely repaired
and is full of water.
The sufferers w^ere mostly Arabs and
Spauiarils ; in the town of Perregaux
there was a depth of 5 ft. of water in
the houses and streets, and long
stretches of embankments, both on the
Oran and Algiers line and on tliat to
Saida, were swept away.
This work, as well as the railway
between Arzeu and S;iida, is due to the
enterprise of a private company, one
may almost say to the i;naided exer-
tions of the late M. Debrousse. He
received no guarantee of interest from
the State, but a concession of 24,000
hectares of irrigable land in the plain
of the Habra, between Perregaux and
the sea, and tlie privilege of collecting
the alfa over a vast area of land on tlie
High Plateaux [see Rte. 26, from Arzeu
to Saida].
A milliary column was found here,
and is now built into the wall of the
Company's office. It contains the fol-
lowing iiiscrii>tion, biding a dedit'ation
to Gordian III. The figures which
should have followed the letters M. P.,
MiUia PttssHuin, have never been
engraved.
N
DOMINO 11
IMP • CAE.S ■ MO
AITONINO • GOR
DIANO • INVIC
TO ■ I'lO • FEI.ICI
AVO • J'wJ • MAXI
MO • Ttlli • POT • BIS
P • P • CCS ■ PRO • CON
XVLA • NEPOTI • DI
VORVM • GOKDIA
NORVM • M.P.
360 kil. L'Hahra.
370 kil. St. Denis du Sig. 6998
inhab. The town is liuilt on the right
bank of the Siij, about 500 yards from
the railway station, in the middle of a
large and fertile plain. The streets and
s([uares are well shaded by trees, run-
ning water everywhere abounds, and
there are numerous gardens both public
and private in the environs ; a hand-
some church has been built, principally
by the munificence of two individuals,
and there is a civil ho.spital capable of
containing 300 beds.
This district owes its fertility en-
tirely to artificial irrigation. The Turks
erected a barrage about 3 kil. S. of the
town, at a point where the river is con-
tracted into a narrow cliannel as it
enters the plain. An inundation de-
stroj-ed this, and the Engineer depart-
ment commenced a new one in 1853,
which was completed and greatly en-
larged by the Fonts ct Chausccs in 1858,
and which was capable of collecting
3 millions cubic metres of water, and of
irrigating a surface of 2000 hectares of
land in winter and SOO in summer.
This was sufficient in ordinary times,
but in years of drought when more
water was required it fre(iuently failed,
so it was detemiined to build a much
larger one, 10 kil. higher up the
stream. This was successfully accom-
plished ; it contained 18 millions cubic
metres of water, and was filled for the
first time during the winter of 1884-
85. Some idea may be formed of the
volume of water thus stored up, by
imagining an acre of land iiiled up
Sect. II
ROUTE 10. CITY OF ORAN
179
with water to the height of Mont
Blanc ! The writer was standing on
the lower barrage on the 8th February
1885, at 5 P.M., when the upiyer one
gave way ; in a wonderfully short
time the whole country was sub-
merged ; the smaller l)arrage went
also ; the water stood to a deptli of
2i metres in some parts of the town of
Sig. All bridges were destroyed, and
the rich and flourishing gardens and
farms in the vicinity were almost ob-
literated. Had this hai)peiied during
the night, as was the case at Perre-
gaux two years previously, the loss of
life must liave been terrible ; as it was,
jteople were warned in time and not
more than seven lives were lost. This
also has been restored. The Union
du Sig, at about 2 m. from St. Denis,
is an agricultural association, of which,
however, one of the principal objects
has not been realised — the association
of capital and labour. It is worked
by a company having its seat at Paris.
The Habra and the Sig unite to the
N. of this place in a marsh, and sub-
sequently reach the sea under the
name of Oued Macta, at a little bay
between Arzeu and Mostaganem (see
Kte. 26).
376 kil. VOugasse.
331 kil. La Mare d'cau. These are
two small villages, the latter near the
forest of Muuhii Ismail, where Don
Alvarez de Bezan was signally defeated
in 1701, and where six years later the
Moroccan chief, Moulai Ismail, had his
arniv almost entirely destroyed.
395 kil. Sahib -Baric dc miat. 1170
inhab. A village on the bank of the
stream called Lc TUlat, at the extremity
of the plain of the same name. The
country round is watered to a certain
extent by a small barrage on the
TIelat. This is the terminus of the
" Ouest Algi'rien " Railway (see Rte.
25).-
404 kil. L'Arbal, more correctly
(Ihabal, a village situated about 7
in. from the station which bears its
name. Numerous Roman ruins in the
vicinity. It Wius jjrobably the Roman
ad Knjias.
411 kil. Vahiui. Created in 1S4S.
640 inhab.
416 kil. La Scnia, a pretty village of
484 inhab. Junction of line to Ain-
Tcmouchent.
421 kil. K.VKOUENTAH (Oran).
CITY OF ORAN.
Capital of the province, residence of
General Commandant, and of the tiene-
ral commanding subdivision, Inteiid-
ance Divisionnaire, Prefet and liishop.)
Po2)ulation of the city and suburbs : —
French . . . 18,247
Jl-ws . . . 3,tJ17
Moliairiiiieilans . t),0S4
S|>aniar(ls . . 22,172
Other nationalities. 6,257
Total
59,377
Oran is not one of the Algerian
towns which can claim a high an-
ti((uity ; for altliough some writers at-
tempt to identify it with the Portus
Magnus or Quiza of the Romans, tiie
evidence is but vague ; and no traces
of that nation's occnjtation have bi-en
found here, with the exception of a few
coins.
It appears to have l)con founded in
the beginning of the lOtli century by
two Arab merchants from Spain, wlio,
freipienting this coast for purposes of
commerce, obtained leave from the
dominant tribe to form a small .settle-
ment there. They called it " Wahnui,''
meaning "aravine"; an<l it reiuaineil,
until the dale of the Spanish eouipiest,
merely a village beside the stream,
with a small harbour, and a fortitica-
tion on the shore. The little town
.soon became, however, of some imjiort-
ancc on account of its exports, and fre-
quently changed masters. The original
founders were driven out in 909, after
holding it for seven years in tlie name
of the caliphs of Spain ; and after
being several times burnt and rebuilt
by tlie contending triU's, the town fell
into tlie hantls of the Almoahide.s, in
the miildle of the 12tii century. These
held it until their overthrow in the
year 1270, by tin- triW- of the Ben-
Zian, or Zianides, after wlii. h Oran
became a jiart of the new kingdom of
'i'leniijcn. It niaintjiined, however, a
ISO
ROUTR 10. AT/;iERH TO ORAN
Algeria
coiisidprablc indi'iifiiidoiicc, dcriviii;^
])()\\cr IVoin till' iiii|)oitaiicc of its coni-
iiK'iTO witli Italy ; ami ajipoiiitcil its
own },'ovei-nor, simiily paying customs
to Tl('iii(;en.
l)cing one of tlu- nearest ports to
Spain, Oraii had always an intimate
connection with the Moors in that
country ; and received frcish inhabit-
ants as the Mohammedans retreated
before the comiuests of the Chiistians.
About this period Moulai ben-Hassan,
one of the last Moorish kings of
(Jranada, took refuge here for a time,
when driven from liis kingdom by dis-
sensions with his son and reverses in
the wars with Castile ; and in a.d.
1500, on the final triumph of the Cross
over the Crescent in the Peninsula,
the expelled Moors, although at first
received with but little hospitality,
settled here in great numbers ; and
under their influence the export trade
of the town gave place almost entirely
to the pursuit of piracy.
The exiles did not remain loug un-
molested in their new home. Fer-
dinand the Catholic turned his thoughts
to the extirpation of these dangerous
neighbours ; and in the year 1505,
through the ^lersuasions of Cardinal
Xinienes, despatched a force, under the
command of Don Diego de Cordoba,
against Mersa-el-Kebir. The king him-
self lacked funds for the enterprise,
but these were supplied by the Car-
dinal ; and the expedition, in conse-
quence, gained the name of the
'"Crusade of Ximenes de Cisneros,"
and was regarded as a holy war, all
who fought in it having indulgence
from certain fast-days for the remainder
of their lives. The port was soon over-
come ; and in 1509 another fleet sailed
from Carthagena led by the Cardinal
liimself, and, assisted by land forces
from ]\Iersa-el-Kebir, took possession
of (ban.
The Spaniards had now a firm foot-
ing in Africa ; but they did not extend
their advantages, contenting thera-
.selves with fortifying Oran, converting
its mosques into churches, and appro-
priating its treasure to Christian uses ;
besides massacring its inhabitants and
introducing the Holy Inquisition.
In the year 1519 the Turks, led by
the pirate Harbarossa, attcm[)ted to
take possession of the town ; but they
were defeated hy tlie governorj the
Marquis of Gomarez, with great loss.
Tiie Sjianiards found their settle-
ment at Oran a barren and expensive
honour, and at one time, before the
battle of Lepanto in 1574, thought of
abandoning it, when a change of for-
tune in Europe enabled them to give
more attention to Africa. They could
not, liowever, resist the increasing con-
quests of the Turks, who, having over-
thrown the native kingdom of Tlem(;en,
consolidated their power throughout
the Barbary states, and deprived Spain
of the tribute it had received from tlie
neighbouring tribes. During the next
century they watched the Christians
jealously ; and having driven tliem
from all the small places over which
they had obtained sway, waited until
an opportunity should offer to take
possession of Oran itself.
In the year 1700 Philip V succeeded
to the throne of Spain ; and the civil
war which ensued between him and
the Archduke Charles prevented him
from sending succour to Oran when it
was attacked in 1708, by the Bey of
the province, under orders from Algiers.
After a brave but hopeless defence, tlie
garrison was obliged to capitulate, and
Oran became the chief town of the
Beyllck.
Spain could not quietly acquiesce in
this disgrace ; and after tranquillity
was restored in Europe by the Peace
of Utrecht, Philip despatched a fleet,
which, in 1732, regained possession of
the town. The garrison, being now
more than ever subjected to attacks
from the Turks, was considerably in-
creased, and succeeded in holding their
dilticult and somewhat useless position
until 1790, when a fearful earthquake,
which continued for several days,
almost annihilated the place ; and
while it was yet suflering from the loss
of fortifications, munitions of war, and
a third part of its garrison, it was
attacked by the Bey of Mascara.
Xevertholess, with reinforcements from
Spain the Christians succeeded in
defending it until the middle of 1791,
Sect. II
ROUTE 10. CITY OF OUAN
ISI
iit wliicli time a treaty of Loiniiieivc
liL'tweeu tliu regfiicy of Algiers and
the Spaiiish government was entered
into anil enabled Oran to make an
liononrable caiiitulation. In ilanli
1792 the Spaniards finally quitted
Africa, carrying with them their arms,
but leaving standing such of the
fortifications as the earthquake had
spared.
For the next forty years Oran was
merely an unimportant town of tlie
IJeylick of that name, and was rebuilt
and repoi)ulated chiefly by Jews and
Arabs ; but the government was not
such as to encourage either commerce
or industry. The 13eys followed each
other in ([uick succession, generally
meeting with violent deaths ; they
perished by poison or ]>estilence, or
dieil upon the held of battle while
levying tribute from rebellious tribes ;
anil some were executed by their mas-
ters at Algiers for misapprojtriation of
the levied tribute. They indulged in
every form of tyranny an<l vicious
])leasnre ; and when the French took
piissession of Algiers in 1830, Hassan,
the last Bey of Oran, immediately
offered them his submission, and was
speedily shipped off to Syria.
For a short time the Beyliek was
given by Marshal Clauzel to Sidi
Ahmed, a prince of Tunis ; but tlie
Marshal's policy not being approved
by the Home (Jovernment, Oran was
occupied in 1831 ; and since that time
the French have remained undisturbed
masters of the town, althougli the
desultory war with the neighbouring
tribes, and especially with Abd-el-
Kailer, was continued until the year
1847.
The town of Oran is situated at the
head of the gulf of the same name,
about 600 m. S. of Marseilles, and
2-20 m. E. of Gil)raltar. Like Algiers,
it is triangular in foini, and jiresents a
striking aspect from tlie sea, rising on
the steep slope of the ]>jihil Miirdjnilja.
High above the town, on the summit
of this ridge, stands the Fort nf Saulu
Cruz; and a little lower dr>wn that of
St. Gr^goin: The coast, from Cape
Falcon on the W., is ])artly flat and
partly rocky. Cape Ferrat on the E.
is roeky and precipitous, the cliiN
around the last-named headland rising
more than lOoO ft. above the water ;
and the bay is fully exj^ised towards
the Js. ; but the small fortiti'd pio-
montory of Mcrsn-il-Kdnr, jutting out
into the .sea about 2 ni, to tlie \V.,
forms at all times a secure and excel-
lent harbour. At the extremity of tin
point is a lighthou.se.
Oran lias two harbours : the old or
inner one is small Init commodious,
with an area of 10 acres ; the new or
outer one lias GO acres, with 1200 yds.
of breakwater, and 328 yds. of quays ;
they are capable of containing a con-
siderable number of vessels of the
largest size.
A considerable trade is carried on
between Oran and Englaml in alia
fibre and cereals, wine and marbh-s.
The exjiorts from Oran are about on a
par with those from Algiers.
In 1792 Spanish Oran was almost
destroyed by an earthi|uake, and the
modern city is entirely French in
character. It has undergone an entire
transformation of late. The old ])or-
tion, built low down in the ravines,
and around the liarbour, still remains
unchanged, but an entirely new (piarter
has arisen on the breezy heights towards
the I'l. Tliis was rendered possiiile by
the destruction of the ohl ramparts,
and the ronstruetion of new defensive
works at a niiieh greater distance from
the town. The liighest part is the
Place (CArmcs, a handsome square witli
a garden in the centre, ami an immense
Mairic occupying the entire eastern
side ; this is very ornate, but it would
have been liner luul a searcity <'f funds
not compelled the municipality to sup-
press the upper stor\'. From the V..
runs the JJoiili'vard Nnlionali , in tli<
direction of the I'urlc iff Mnxaini ; in
it is situated a new and im|io.siiig
Jiirish Si/iliKjiiifii'-. Tile ]i|ea.santly-
shaded I'luiiienade de I'Ktang is the
most popular |ilaee of re.sort. It has a
sjilentlid view of the sea, port and gull
The military baml of the garrison .sonn
times plays here.
V/iitrcfies ami JAwyi/.-.v. — These ar>
not very jx-niarkablc. The most im
182
ROUTE 1 0. ALOIKRS TO GRAN
A I'jeria
jioilaiit i.s llic Cdlhcdnd (if St. Lovls,
ill tliu I'laod do rEgliso. This was fbr-
iiicily a cliapol huhjiigiiig to a convent
of monks ol' tiic <ir(ler of St. Jk'iiianl ;
and afterwards, altout 1710, was tiiinod
into a syiiaf^oguc, and was used as sueii
for more than twenty years. Tlie
jiresent building was erected in 1839,
under M. l^upont as arcliitect. A
stone, on which the arms of Cardinal
Xinicnes arc carved, was found in the
ilebris of the old .Spanish church, and
now forms the keystone of the arch in
Iront of the choir. On the vaulted
roof of the latter is a fresco of the land-
ing of St. Louis at 'J'unis, painted by
M. St. Pierre. The site of the ancient
chapel is at the back of the choir ; and
a small }iortion of the walls of the
original building are incorporated in
those of the modern church.
The Churcli, of St. Andr6, in the
Place des Carrieres, is a small edifice,
formerly a mosque, possessing nothing
worthy of particular notice.
The Ecjlise de la Mosquec is in Kara-
gueutah, of which it is the parish
church.
The old Jesuit school and chapel has
been appropriated by the municipality,
and will be turned into a secular school
for girls ; a large Lycee is being built
for boys, and there is an excellent girls'
school kept by the Scaurs Trinitaircs.
The Grand Mosque, in the Rue
Philippe, is entered by a porch decor-
ated and restored by M. de Sorbier.
At the entrance of the mosque itself
stands a white marble fountain said
to have been originally brought from
Spain, at a cost of 5U00 f. The in-
terior consists of a large dome, sup-
ported on low columns, and destitute
of ornament or decoration. This
mosque was founded to commemorate
the expulsion of the Spaniards from
Oran, with the money procured from
the ransom of the Christian slaves.
There is a pretty octagonal minaret
attached to tliis building.
The only other mosque of any im-
portance is that of Sidi cl-Houari,
below the Kasha ; it is held in great
veneration by the Arabs ; part of it
has been taken by the French as a
military store.
The Tliadn; situate<l near tlie Pro-
menade de I'Etang, is very small, al-
though commodiously arrangc-d. It
can accommodate only aliout 700 ])cr-
sons. A Frcni h comjiany plays ihuing
the winter months, and in summer
performances in Sjjanish are generally
given by a company from Carthagena
or elsewhere.
A Ahiseum has been formed under
the aus])ices of the Societe dc GtognqiJiie
ct d'Archeologic, which is tenijiorarily
placed in one of the wards of the oM
civil hospital ; it is ])articularly in-
tended to collect there all the an-
tiquities found in the department. An
excellent beginning has been made,
the most interesting objects being the
fine mosaics from St. Leu, which gave
a clue to the re-discovery of the lost
Numidian marbles.
The Chateau Neuf, built l>y the
Spaniards, is the citadel. It is the
residence of the general command-
ing the division, who occupies that
portion of the building which was in
former times the palace of the Beys.
The other part of it is used as a
barrack.
The Chateau Vieicx, or Kasha, was
the ancient citadel of Oran, and was
several times surrendered to foreign
troops ; in 1509, to the army of
Ximenes ; in 1708, to Mustafa bcn-
Youssef ; and again, in 173'2, to the
troops of the Due de Jlontemar. Like
the Chateau Neuf, it consisted of two
parts, the higher being the residence
of the Spanish Commanders, and coni-
})rising a chapel, among many other
buildings ; and the lower containing
the arsenal and barracks. The ujiper
part of the Kasba was entirely de-
stroyed by the earthquake of 1790 ;
but the lower part is still used as a
barrack and nnlitary prison ; the civil
prison is at Karaguentah, and capable
of containing 300 persons.
Oran is strongly fortified. The Fort
de la Mounc is at the western ex-
tremity of the harbour. Fort St. Andre,
in the centre of the to\\ii, formerly
Sect. II
UOL'TK 10. KNVIUONtJ OF ORAN
1^3
UK milted 36 guns. Beyond Fort St.
Aiidrti is Fort St. rhilipiic, Ituilt to re-
])l;ice tin; old C;istlo of tlie Saints, called
in Spiinish ^' C'a.sti/lo de Ivs Saji/os" ;
and above, on tlie hei<5lits of" the I'ic
d'Aidour, more than lOOO ft. above the
sea, stands the Fort Santa Cruz. The
view from this fort is magnificent. A
little ehai)el h;is been erected jnst below,
to comineniorate the cholera year of
1849 ; this subsequently had a tower
added, surmounteil by a colossal statue
of the Virgin, a rc[>lica of that of Notre
Dame de la Garde at Marseilles ; it is
styled N6t7-e Dame de la Salut de Santa
Cruz. On the height above Mcrs-el-
Kchir is a fort armed with two 14 -ton
guns, which commands the coast on
both sides, and crosses fire with a simi-
lar work at the Point du llavin blanc,
to the E. of the town. Notwithstand-
ing its apparently impregnable position
it was taken by assault in 1708.
There is a subterranean comnninica-
tion between all the forts, the galleries
passing underneath the town, mount-
ing and descending the various jiills.
Permission can l)e ol)tained t9 visit
tliese by apiilication to the Colonel of
lingineers.
The walls whicli surround the city
contain 9 gates, viz. —
I'lirtc de Mcrs - el - Kchir ; Porte de
Sauiun ; Porte du Pavin ; Parle dc
Tlcm<;en ; Porte Sidi Charmi ; Porte
du CimetUre ; Porte de Mascara ; Porte
de Mostaganem, and Porte de V Abattoir.
Among the pul)lic buildings not yet
enumerated should be mentioned the
new Military Hospital, adjoining the
Cathedral of St. Louis, an imposing
edifice, capable of accommodating 1400
men.
The Civil Hosjutal is on the high
ground at Karaguentah, holding GOO
jiatieiits.
In the Place de I'llopital, just o]ipo-
site the tunned communicating with tiie
line dc rArscnal, is a house now used
as military ([uarters, once the Juqiiisi-
tion ; an inscrii)tion let into the wall
states that it was built at the expense
of the State in 1772.
A visit should be paid to the negro
(piarter, ]ieopled by nearly 3000 of that
race, and Arabs.
Oraii is well supplied with watn.
The stream Jlas-clA'tu, wliirli rises
about a kil. IteNond the walls, is
brought by means of an umlergroutid
tunnel into the town. A furthir supply
has been brought from tiie fine spring at
Hredeah, at 25 kil. on the road from
Oran to Temouchent.
Knvikons of OltAX.
7 kil. La Senia, a small village, tb'
iidiabitants of wliieh are all employed
in agriculture, ami in the cultivation of
vegetables and fruit, which are sent to
Oran, and thence shipped to various
foreign ports. It is approached through
an avenue of muHierry-trees, and is
worth visiting, although it contains
nothing of special interest. The popu-
lation is 484.
8 kil. Mers-el-Eebir. A road, cut
out of the soliil lock for a great J'art
of its length, in one place passing
through a tunnel fiO yards h'Ug, con-
nects this port with Oran.
2 kil. Underneatli the road at thi>
point is a curious cave, into wliieh a
boat can enter in smooth weather ; it
is freiiuented by seals, and is called /"
Grotte dcs Vcntix Mar ins.
3 kil. from Oran is a small bathing
establishment called Lea Bains de la
Beine, erected at the sciirce of a waim
mineral s]>ring. It is so called after
Isabella the Catholic, who in the IGtii
century brought her infant daughter
to this place for the sake of these
waters. The spring rises in a cavern
or narrt)w cleft in the ro(k, al«>v,'
20 ft. in length by 10 ft. in heigh;
The temperature is about 85' Kalii. ,
and the water contains large <[uanli
tics of salt ami magnesia. There are
several separate batlis, us well as the
"Piscine," or bnthing-phice for the
poorer classes. They uru snid to Iw
peculiarly efficacious in cases of rheu-
matism. There is a restaurant attached
to the establishment, where bedrooms
also may be obtained.
A short distance iicyond the liains
de la Keine, the road crosses a ravine
called the Saltodcl Cavallo, and furlin
IS 1
KOI Ti; I I. CIIII.II'I'I^N 11,1.1; TO ONSTANTINK
A l<J< rvi.
pusses Uif vill:i;,'(,'S (if Sniiit Andre,
rliiclly iiili.'ihitecl hy lislicriiicii ami
sailors; Sahili; ClidUtk, 200 iiihab.,
Iiiiiici]>!illy (xriiiiicd in tlio ciiltiviitioii
1)1' vines ; and ,S(iivt (Unmic, an a^ni-
ciilliiial village. Beyond is Mers-el-
Kebir.
The loll, sai<l to occupy tlie site of
one built liy tlic Romans, was taken
liy the Si)aniar(ls under Don Diego de
Cordoha in 1505. Previous to this it
luul been one of the strongholds of the
jiirates who infested this coast, and
were the terror of the neighbouring
countries. In 1708 the Turks carried
it by assault, and massacred the garri-
son to the numl)er of 300. They in
their turn had to surrender to the Count
de Montenuir in July 1732, after a san-
guinary struggle, a few days after the
fall of'Oran. In 1791 the Turks, for
the second time, became masters of
Mers-el-Kebir ; and at length, after
various vicissitudes, it fell into the
hands of the French. It occupies the
extremity of the rocky promontory
l)efore described as forming a safe har-
bour in the most tempestuous weather.
The fountain at the entrance is sur-
mounted by the arms of Ferdinand
of Arragou. It now contains the con-
vict establishment. On the extremity
of the j)oint is a lighthouse with a
fixed white light, visible at a distance
of 8 m.
A new fort, intended to command
the harbour and existing fort, has been
constructed on the summit of the hill
above.
The Village is unimportant, but
picturesquely situated on the western
side of the fort.
A'in-et-Turk, 8 kil. beyond Mers-el-
lu'liir, is a pretty village, consisting
jirincipally of two long streets sloping
down to the sea, and bordered by
houses, nearly all of which stand in
gardens. The inhabitants are oceuiiied
in agricultiu'c, and in raising cattle.
\'ines are grown to a ccnisiderable ex-
tent around this place. Pop. 593.
BouSfer, C kil. from Ain-et-Turk,
is another village on the margin of the
plain "ite Andalouscs." As at Ain-
et-Turk, agrieuUun; gives em]iloynient
to nearly all tin; [io])ulation, whieli
amounts to 854.
At 25 kil. E. of Oran is tlic Arab
village of Kristel, under the Mountain
of Lions, where there are some inter-
esting caves. Then: is no carriage-roail,
but a mule-path, and one can go by a
fishing-boat.
Kristel has abundance of water, and
it is probable that one day Arzeu may
be su]ipli(!d thence. This will be a
necessity if it is ever to rival Oran as a
commercial depot.
KOL'TK 11.
Philippeville to Constantine by
Railway.
Kil.
Kil
Philippeville, Port,
to
87
2
Philippeville, Goods Stat. .
So
10
Saf-saf
77
19
St. Charles .
66
29
Robertville .
56
37
El-Arrouch .
50
46
Col des Oliviers .
41
60
Conde Smeiidou .
27
73
Bizot
14
80
Hamiiia
7
87
Constantine .
This line, belonging to the P. L. JI.
Company, is a triumph of engineering,
having to ascend from the sea to the
height of 2093 ft. (level of Constantine),
and to cross a chain of mountains
still higher, presenting difficulties that
appeared almost insurmountable to
the construction even of a road.
On leaving the station the railway
enters a tunnel beneath the Djebel
Abdouna, on the flanks of which are
the barracks, etc., and then ascends
the wide, richly -cultivated valley of
the Oued Saf-.saf.
2 kil. rinlippcviUc. Goods stat.
10 kil. Saf-saf.
19 kil. Saint Charles. Here the road
to Jemmapes and Bone diverges from
that to Constantine. Diligences call
at the station. The village (147 iuhab. )
is situated in a fertile district.
29 kil. Rohertville. 579 inhabit.
Scd. II
ROUTK 1 ] . COXSTANTINE
185
Tln' (•oni-lamls aii; t-xtt-nsive and lidi.
Tluy j^railiially IjLroiuc scaiitiur as the
railway ascuiuls to
46 kil. Col dcs Olivi^rs. Here the
train waits 15 niiii. It is a narrow col
liL'tween the valley of the Oiinl rl-
Khamza on the ^\'., and that of El-
Aii'ouch on the E. , across whiih one
sees the twin peaks of Djfhcl Toumiet,
" Les deux Manielles " (-2931 ft.) After
leaving the station the railway ascends
the mountain of Kl-KautDur by a series
of curves, following to a great extent tlie
old post road. The views looking back
are very striking. The previous coiir.se
of the line is seen far lielow, and the
beautiful valle}' of El-Arrouch is spread
out towards the N. till the highest
]ioiut is passed, after which the railway
descends to
60 kil. Conde Smendou. 1570 inhab.
After ]tassing through a tunnel under
the village, the valley of the Oacd
Snicndou is followed as far as A'ioxin
Sdfid, where it is (putted for one of its
atlluents. This is followed to the top
of a col, after passing which an allluent
of the Roummel is followed to
73 kil. Bizot. 237 inhab. A village
named after an engineer officer kille<l
at Sebastopol. It is built on a spot
called I']l - Hadjar, "The Stones."
Water is scarce, and attempts to sink
an Artesian well having failed, it has
been brought from a distance by an
acjueduct. The land, however, is fertile,
and vines and fruit-trees flourish. On
leaving it the railway sweeps round the
valley, and the beautiful oasis, for such
it is, of El-IIamma comes into view.
Several hot springs here bui-st from the
limestone strata, producing the most
luxuriant vegetation, whose varied
colours contrast most strikingly with
the gray of the limestone and the uni-
form green of tlu^ corn-lands. Every
kind of tree grows luxuriantly ; among
tliem the date-]ialm, the fig, ami the
]iomegranate. ]''rom an inscri[itioii,
found here in 1857, we learn that in
the time of the Romans it \mw the
name of Azimacia.
bO kil. El-llamma stat.
In a few minutes ConslaiitiiK- romi-.->
into view ; but unfoitunately the full
gran<leur of its site can scarcely be aji-
preciated from the railway, whicii i~
carried of neiessity along the limistmi'
ridge aijove the city ; .so that the mar
vidlous J)eauty of its position, enthroned
on an isolated pedestal of rock, can
hardly be realised.
A tunnel under Djebel Mcijiil, N.
of the city, is passed, and tlie station, on
a plateau at the foot of Mansoura, i
reached.
87 kil. Constantine. 31,726 inhab.
Capital of the jirovince ; residence of
general commanding, of jirefet, bishoji,
and other liigh functionaries.
The remarkable situation of this eit\
has pointed it out from the earliest tinn >
as an important fortress, and as one ol
the natural capitals of a country which
h;is been the scene of perpetual war-
and revolutions. Its ancient nanp
was Kcrlh or Cirta, and it was tip
seat of the Miissessylian kings, partak-
ing of the fortune of its neighbour,
Carthage.
Narva, whose wife was sister to
Hannibal, was king in n.f. 230. He
was succeeded by Syphax, who had
obtained the hand of Sophonislia,
daughter of Ilasdrubal; l>ut Ma.ssinissji,
king of the Massyliaiis, who was also
in love with her, took advantage of the
lireaking out of the Second I'unic War
to ally himself to Scipio Africanus,
and by his help deposed Syphax, and
obtained po.ssession of Cirta ami of
Sophonisba, it.c. 202. Scipio having
<lemandeil her as a jirisoner of the
Roman senate, Massini.ssa .sent her a
dose of poison, which she instantly
drank, merely remarking that .she
would have died with more honour
had she not wedded at Iwr funeral.
Massinissa reigneil at Cirta until tli'
breaking out of the Third runi.- War,
which his secret aliiamc with Itomc
had done much to foment ; and died
it.c. 1-18, leaving liis throne to his son
Micipsa.
In his division of the kingdom,
Micipsa left Cirta to liis .son Atllierbal,
who was besiege<l and killetl there by
Jugurtha, ii.c. 112.
18fJ
UOUTK 1
rilll.lITEVILLE TO CONSTANTINK
A Igeria
Tills was (lie coiiilriciici'liiclil ol' tlic
.liiiiuilliiiio Will', (luriiii( tlio lic',niiiiiiiiff
of wliiili tlie Nuniidiaii ])iiiH;e lielil his
capitiil a;,'aiiist tlu; llDiiiaiis, until in
ii.c. 109 Mctnllus and Alaiius took the
(■oiiiniaiid in Al'iica, and he was olili^ed
to fly to more distant parts of his
kingdom. The Romans then occupied
Cii'ta, and from that stronghold carried
on the war, until Jugurtha was hetrayed
to them, B.C. 106. The kingdom
was shortly after given to Juba, who
took the side of Pompey in his
struggles with Julius Caisar ; and in
Ii.c. 49 was able to defeat a Roman
army.
In Ii.c. 46, on the fall of the party
of Pompey, after the death of Cato,
.lulia surrendered Cirta to the allies of
Cicsar ; and after it had been much
beautified and honoured with the name
of "Cirta Julia," it remained the seat
of a Roman colony until a.d. 304.
At that time Alexander, the Numi-
dian peasant, raised a revolt against
the Emiiire, and holding Cirta against
the Romans, it was taken liy them and
destroyed after a siege ; but l)eing once
more restored in the year 313, it then
changed its ancient name for that of
Constantina.
Cirta was no less celebrated in eccle-
siastical than in profane history. In
257 St. Cyprian was exiled here ; in
305 Secundus, primate of Numidia,
caused a council to assemble within its
walls to examine into the case of the
traitors, or those who surrendered their
church ornaments and saci'ed books
during his persecution, and this as-
sembly was the indirect cause of the
Donatist schism. Sylvain, jiriraate of
Africa, held a second council here in
412, at which St. Augustine assisted.
The acts were lost.
In the time of St. Augustine the
bishop of this place was a Donatist ;
and to this fact, as well as to its natural
strength, it is perhaps owing that when
Genseric and his Vandals overran the
countrj^ the city escaped destruction ;
and Ikdisarius, after he had driven out
the barbarians, found the Roman build-
ings still intact. Additional works
seem to have been undertaken at this
time, as the at^ueduct, part of which
still remains, is said to date from the
time of Justinian.
Constantina was not, however, at
any time as large and flouiishing as
Cirta had been, whose palmi(^st■ day.s
were in the peaceful reign of Micipsa ;
and now witli the Arab invasion, in the
middle of the 7th century, w'e come to
its darkest period. It became a ])rey
to the various Arab dynasties which
disputed thegovernnient of the country ;
and in successive sieges its ancient
monuments were destroyed, although
not effaced, as scattered Roman mins
covered the ground at the time of the
French occupation, and have only dis-
appeared in conse(|uence of their im-
provements.
The city preserved its Latin name,
and was at times the cajiital of the
Arabs ; but it seems to have been of
little importance to them, and for a
hundred years, until the end of the
15th century, governed itself as a
Republic.
It was entirely fallen from its ancient
grandeur when the Turks became mas-
ters of the country ; but its inhabit-
ants did not submit tamely to their
rule ; and after concpering and losing
it several times, they built a fort ad-
joining the city in 1629, and in 1640
ap[iointed a Bey for the province, who
had his headquarters at Constantine.
Entirely subject to the Dey of Algiers,
and called to give an account to him
every four months, the government of
those Beys was very insecure ; and only
one name among them es|)ecially stands
forth, that of Salah Bey, who came
into power about 1771, and was distin-
guished for his wise government for
more than twenty years. To him are
attributed most of the Mohammedan
buildings, and especially the restora-
tion of " El-Kantara," the bridge which
brought the road and the aqueduct into
the city.
This ambitious work raised suspicions
in Algiers that he intended to make
himself independent ; and the Dey
sent another governor to replace liim,
who besieged the place and forced Salah
Bey to submit. He consented to come
forth on condition that he might pass
through the besiegers holding the
Sect. II
IluUTKll. CONSTANTINE
18-
Imriious of oiio ol' tlic Arab cliit-fs, a
iccogiii.sed sign of safc-comluct ; but no
sooiici' liiul they reached the street than
the Arab wrenched away his cloak, and
Sahdi was surrounded by the soklieri-
and strangled.
To him succeeded a list of nearly
twenty Beys in a little over thirty
years, their short, stormy administra-
tions being linislieil generally by the
l)ow-string, poison, or the sword. lUit
in 182G there arose a rival to the
Algerino i)ower in liadj -Ahmed, who,
alter the fall of Algiers, maintained
himself independently in t'onslantine.
lie led his troops against the French
in 1830, and fougiit bravely at Algiers,
retiring before the capitulation was
signed. The French decreed his de-
position in December of the same year,
l)Ut ([uitc inell'ectually, as Ahmed took
the title of I'acha, which was ratilied
by the I'orte ; and he retained the
sovereignty of Constantine until 1837.
His reign was marked by cruelties
and extortions of every kind ; but his
peojilc rallietl round him against the
{•'reiuh, and made a desl)erale defence
of their city. He was assisted in the
government by a Kabyle named Ben-
Aissa, a man of low origin, but of great
power ; and during the French sieges
iladj -Ahmed remained outside the
town with his desert troops, while
Hen Aissa took cummand within lin'
walls.
The first French expedition against
Constantino was made in November
183G, under Marshal Clauzel, an ollicer
of great al)ility, but who, on this occa-
sion, committed the grievous fault of
underrating his enemy, and trusting
lo(j much to the assurance that liad
l)ecn made to him that no serious resist-
ance would be oll'ered.
'I'he ilarshal was accompanied by
H.K. H. the Due de Nemours, to whom
was attached as A.D.C. a young cap-
lain of tat-Major, now Marshal de
iMacMalion. The connuandant, subse-
([uently ( leneral Youssef, who had rather
prematurely been named I'ey of Con-
stantine, was also of the party. The
army, consisting of 8770 men, left l>onc
on tlic 13th November and arrived
before Constantine on the 21st, witliout
having encountered any oiii>o«ition, but
mucli exliausted by fatigue and priva-
tion. The assault was made on the
night of the •23d by the Iiritlge of Kl-
Kantara, but was repulsed on all sides
with frightful loss ; ami the Marshal,
owing to the intlemency of the season
and the impossibility of revieluulling
his army, was compelled to retreat to
Bone, where he arrived on tlie 1st of
Decendjer, the whole army being in the
last stage of exhaustion. The corps
under his command was dissolved, ami
the Marshal himself relieved of com-
mand, and recalled to Paris.
In the following year a second ex-
pedition wa.s organised, consisting of
10,(100 men, under command of the mw
(!overn<jr-(!eneral Damremont. It was
organised in four brigades, the lii-st of
which was commanded by the Due de
Nemours, and arriveil before Constan-
tine on the 6th of October 1837.
Shortly after fire was opened General
Damremont was killed when examining
the breach ; the command was taken
by Ceneral Valee, the commandant of
artillery, and on the following day the
assault" took jilacc. Creat lo.sses were
sustainetl on both .siiles, an<l many of
the inhabitants, in attempting to escape
by means of cords into the ravines
around, were dashed to pieces.
No traveller can fail to lie dwi)ly im-
pressed by tiie niagniricence of the situ-
ation of Constantine, whose grandeur
and pictures(|ue beauty are probably
unsurpassed by that of any city in the
world ; and it can be truly .siiid to
<leserve all the praise that has been so
lavishly bestowed on it by writers on
Algeria.
Nature seems to have constructed it
entirely with a view to defence and
pictures(pie elfect. It occupies the
summit of a plateau of rock, nearly
([uadrilateral in shape, the faces corre-
sponding to the cardinal points, and
its suilace sloping from X. to S.
Its sides rise perpendieularlv nearly
1000 ft. from tiio iK'd of the river
Kounnnel,' which surrounds it on the
1 Till' Hoiimniunx-lowCoiiHtflntinc iH'OiiniH
the Ottfil rl-Krhir, the nncioiit AiiimiK« or
AmpsiipiH whirh f<iniii'<l tlip ln'iimlnry l>»-twi-i'n
tliu kiiig<liims of the Massos.syliaiiM t» the W.
1,S8
iioi'TK 1 I. rnii,irri;vii,i,F, to constantine
A lijeria
N. ami K. , and it is (.■oinu'ctcd on
(lie \V. side only by an isthmus witli
till' mainland. The dccj) ravine,
tliii>\ii,'ii which the Koumnu'l flows,
varies in hreadth from ahout 200 ft.
(in the 8.E. side, to nearly double tliat
■ listanee oiijiosite the Kasha ; and is
spanned on tlic N. K. by lour natural
arches of rock, about '200 ft. above
the stream, one of which serves as the
foundation for the bridge of El-Kan-
ta m.
On the N.W. side the precipices are
tiie higlust ; and it is looking towards
this point from the ])lain of the Hain-
ma that the most sjilendid view of the
city is obtained. To the N.E. and
S. E. the lieights of Mansoura and Sidi
Mrrul command the city. On the last-
named hill stiMid a luined koubba of
tiie saint whose name it bears. The
isthmus before mentioned connects
Constantine with the hill of Koudiat-
AH.
The situation of Constantine, how-
ever, cannot be thoroughly appreciated
unless a walk be taken round the out-
side of the city, and we would ad\-ise
the traveller to postpone his explora-
tion of the streets until this has been
dojie.
We will suppose him to leave the
city by the Place de la Breche, where
formerly stood the Porte Valee, occupy-
ing nearly the same place as the older
Ikib el-Oued. In iront was the hill of
Koudiat-Ati, where the Freuch storm-
ing batteries were erected Oct. 1837.
The ground is now (1889) being levelled,
the hill cut away, and a large plateau
in course of construction, which will
become the site of a new faubourg.
Here is the corn -market, between the
suliurbs of St. Jean to the "\V. and St.
Antoinc to the E. In front of it are
two squares planted with trees. That
on the left is a garden, in the centre of
which is a bronze statue of Marshal
Valee ; that to the right contains frag-
ments of lionian antiquities — columns,
capitals, in.scri))tions, too bulky to be
placed in tlie Jluseum.
ami the Massylians to the E. At the sources
of the Bmi Morznug, one of its affluents 8. of
Constantino, M. Cliorbonneau found an inscrijv
tion containing the words CAPVT AMSAGJi.
A path to the left, close umb-r the
wall, descends through a cam]> of Arabs,
Ijusily eng.aged in various tra<les, to the
gate Jj(ib-el-Djahia (Gate of tin: Re-
servoir), so called because iu former
days there was a reservoir here, fed by
the aqueduct of Koudiat-Ati. It is a
very curious Arab structure, set at right
angles to the wall, which here is built
of large blocks of .stone without mor-
tar, probably Roman, and the gate is
itself, in its lower part at least, of the
same period.
At the right of it is a curious inscrip-
tion in Greek and Latin, as follows : —
n 'lOYAIwI TEMINIWI
MAPKIANWI ' ITPECBEYTHI '
CeBACTtwN 'ANTICTPATHFO)I
YHATtBl 'AAPHXwN 'nOAIC 'H
THC ' APABIAC ' AIA ' AAMACeOYC
KOIA^OY 'nPeCBEYTH { '
-I-
AAPAHNfuN 'enAPXEIAC
APABIAC
TRANSLATA AB YRBE SECYN
DYM YOLVXTATEM MARCIA
NI TESTAMEXTO SIGNIFICAT
D D
The translation of the Greek inscrip-
tion is as follows : —
" To Publius Julius Geminius Marcianus,
chief officer of the Au;,'ustan (legionaries), pro-
praetor, (pro)-consul, the township of the
Adrcni of Arabia (erected this memorial) by
the hands of Damascs Koiaphas, (as being)
chief of the Adraeni in the province of
Arabia."
Another inscription mentioning the
same offices is let into the wall of the
Kaslja {q.v.)
Above the block containing this in-
scription is a cipus bearing a Latin
inscription, which forms the impost of.
the arch.
A steep path descends from the gate
to the Roummel, passing by some ma.sses
of Roman rubble, of which the use has
now been forgotten. Roman masonry
is seen at intervals in the city walls.
There was once a gate here, Bab-Hcni-
nccha (Gate of the Tunnel), so called
^fct. IT
ROCTi:ll. COXSTANTIXE
189
because it opened a covered way leading
down to the river, so that the inhabit-
ants might get water without danger
froni assailants. On the left bank of
the liounmiel, close to the clitt", is the
sliiii>i/iter-Jio>isc ; a little higher up, on
the same side, the JJitnlo, a large ugly
building formerly used as barracks for
the Turkish cavalry, ami now for the
Spahis. About a mile higher up the
stream, on the Oued Merzoug, just
above its junction with the Roummel,
are the remains of the Roman aqueduct
which spanned the vallej- between
Djebel Guerioun and Koudiat - Ati.
Five arches remain, about GO ft. high.
They are built of huge blocks of lime-
stone without mortar ; and to ensure
additional security, the bases of the
j)iers are considerably broader than the
I'lers themselves, narrowing gradually
as they ascend. There is a tradition
that the aqueduct was constructed by
.Justinian.
Keturning to the Aballoir, a bridge
crosses the Roummel under the rock
called Siili Uiirltcil, the most southern
point of the clilf (in which Constantine
is built. It is said that the Turks used
to throw susj)ected or faithless wives
fnim the top of this lock. There are
the remains of a line Roman tower on
its top. Here is the beginning of the
grand gorge •which extends round the
E. and N. sides of the city. The
clitls arc .scarcely more than 15 ft. apart
in this place.
After crossing the bridge a short
tunnel is traversed, and a warm spring
reached. The water is collected into
cisterns and used lor washing. A few
yards farther on, beyond a quarry, is
the place assigned by tradition to the
martyrilom of S.S. JIarius ami .lacobus,
who jierished here in A.D. 280. The
inscription recording the event is
rudely carved on the face of the rock,
and was ajjparently the composition of
:ui illiterate person ; but it has been
so much damaged by time and neglect
that it will soon be quite illegible. It
ran as follnws : —
t mr . NdS SKIT I'ASSIONE MAIlTVn
OIIVM noUTKNSl VM .M A 11 I A N I KT
lACOIII AATI I AIMNR VSTICI flllMIM
TAT t MEi.TVNl UllTOB I HILHANI KOIP
Till SCI Dl MKMIlRAMISl IN CONSPEtTV ANI
CVORVM NOMINA St'ITIS yVI FECIT IN AXV.
This has been thought to mean —
"Quarto iion.is .Sfi)t<>iiil(r«'s |>a.ssi<)ne inar-
tyiiuniiii liDrtcnsiuiii Mariani ft .Facotii, l»ati,
Jaiiiiii, Kiistici, Crispi, Tati, Meltuni, Viu'toris,
Silvani, K),'iptii, iSancti ilii-i ('O- MeiiifH-aiiiiiii
in cons|>ectu Domini. Qunruni iioniina scitis
nut fecit iiiUietione qiiintA lUciina."
Hence the i>ath ascends to the hill
Mansuura, whence a most interesting
view is obtained, a.s the traveller walks
northward, of the Arab ([uarter and
its tanneries, which are built in the
most perilous jio.sitions, on the very
edge of the precipice. The steep dill's
allord nesting places to numbers of
jackdaws, hawks, and falcons ; while
storks build ujion the housetops. Re-
mains of two R(unan bridges are to be
seen low down in tiie ravine. They
probably all'onled a means of access to
the suburb which undoubtedly covered
the plateau of iMansoura at that time.
A splemlid Trivinjihal Anh was still
standing here in 1724 ; it perhajis
formed a jiart of the decorations of the
llipjHxInimi', whose remains were dis-
covered and destroyed when the railway
station was built. Shaw, who saw it
in the year above mentioned, sjiys :
"Among the ruins to the S. W. of the
biidge wc have the greatest [>art of a
triumi)hal arch called Ca.ssir Coulah,
or the Ctisllc (as they interpret it) lif
the Giant, consisting of three arches,
the middlemost whereof, as usual, is
the most spacious. All the mouMings
ami friezes are curiously embellished
with the ligures of llowers, battle-axes,
and. other ornaments. The Corinthian
jiilasteis erected on each side of the
grand anh are panelled like the gates
of the city, in a style and fashion
peculiar to Cirta."
The barracks on the summit of Man-
.soura are occupied by the Ch.usseurs
d'Africpic ; lower down, just above the
railway station, is the Keole Normale.
At the N.K. angle of tlio city Wiis
the bridge of Kl-Kantara. It would
ajipear from the Arali chronicles tliat
the other bridges were destroyed in
1304, when nen-cl-Kinir, Kaid of Con-
stantine, revolted agiiinsl the Kmir
1!)0
ROtlTK 11. PIIII,IPPF,Vir-LK TO COXSTAXTIN'E
A Ujcria
Klialod. Enough remains of tlie Roman
works at El-Kantara to merit a detailed
di'scription.
Advantage has been taken of one of
tilt' natural arches over the Roummel
lor tlic foundation of the bridge. Look-
ing at tlic ruin from tlic S. side, it will
be seen that there were originally three
jiicrs, of nearly the same size, and
(■i|uidistant.
Bi'twecn the first and second of these,
counting from the E., a jierfect arch
I'cmains. It was double, with a con-
siderable space between the vaults, of
which the upjier one, built of massive
blocks, carried the roadway ; the lower
one, carefully finished, was merely
ornamental. This was evidently the
only arch beneath which water passed,
as the stream must always have been
scanty, and the rocks have no appear-
ance of being waterworn elsewhere.
The interval between the second and
third piers is walled up. This would
seem to have been done nearly at the
time of the original construction, for
the stones are preciselj' the same as
those used in the piers, and worked in
the same way ; but the lines of masonry
do not exactly correspond. Between
the third pier and the rocks there was
a half arch, which apparently was filled
in like the others, though on the S.
side the wall has fallen away com-
jiletely. A similar half- arch appears
to have existed between the first pier
and the rocks ; but these abut on the
pier so closely that it is not easy to
make out the construction in this
]iart. Some years ago the writer was
still able to trace on the S. side the
lias -relief so quaintly described and
iigured by Shaw "of a lady treading
upon two elephants, with a large
escallop shell for her canopy. The
elephants having their faces turned
towards each other, twist their trunks
together, and the lady, who appears
dressed in her hair, with a close-bodied
garment, like the riding-habit of our
times, raiseth up her petticoats with
her right hand, and looks scornfully
upon the city." Ou a subsequent visit
he was unable to find it.
This system of piers and arches sup-
ports a level roadwa}' ; above which
was a second stage, consisting, it is
said, of six arches. Of these one yiier
remains on the E. side, with the arch
and half pier between it and the cliff,
and a corresponding half ]>ier on the
W. The height of the whole structure
was nearly 220 ft. above the soil on
which its foundations rested, which are
themselves 184ft. above the river; so
that the whole was not less than 404
ft. in height.
An excellent description of this arch
has been left by El-Bekri, the Arab
geograjdier of the 11th century, who
says : ' ' This bridge is of a remarkable
structure, its height above the level of
the water being about 100 cubits ; it is
one of the remains of Roman architec-
ture ; it is comjiosed of five upper and
lower arches which span the valley.
Three of these, namely, those to the
W., have two stories, as we have said ;
thej' are intended for the passage of
water, while the upper ones form a
communication between the two sides
of the ravine. Regarding the others,
they abut against the mountain. These
arches are supported by piers, which
break the violence of the toi-rent, and
are pierced at their summit by small
openings. When there are extraordi-
nary Hoods, which sometimes take
place, the water which rises above the
r.op of the piers escapes by means of
these orifices. This is, we repeat, one
of the most remarkable buildings ever
seen."
Peyssouuel, who visited it in 1724,
describes it as "a very fine structure,
with three rows of arcades, and a height
of about 250 ft., but rather narrow,
having fallen."
Shaw saw it in 1740 ; he says it was
"indeed a masterpiece of its kind, the
gallery and the columns of the arches
being adorned with cornices and fes-
toons, ox -heads and garlands. The
keystones also of the arches are charged
with caducei and other figures."
Bruce also visited it in 1765, and has
left two drawings of its actual condition
at that period. 1
Subsequently it was thoroughly re-
stored by Don Bartolommeo, an archi-
tect of ilenorca, in 1793, during the
1 " Footsteps of Bruce," p. -to, PI. IV.
Sect. II
ROUTE 11. COXSTAXTIXE
191
reifijn of Salah Bey, with inaterials
chieHy obtained from the destruction
of other Koman edifices. It stood as
he left it till 7 a.m. on 18th March
1857, when the pier of the upper stage
nearest to the town suddenly gave way,
with the two arclies resting upon it.
It was found impossible to restore it ;
the liriilge was in consequence battered
down witii heavy artillery on the 30th
of the same month. The substantial
modern iron structure was built in
1863 ; the aqueduct beneath it in
1857.
It was this bridge and gate which
were attacked by tln' Frcncli in 183t),
under General Clau/.el, wlicn they made
their first disastrous uttemiit upon
Constautine.
From the E. end of the bridge there
is a beautiful view W. through the
ravine ; at the beginning of which may
be seen the remains of the road that
allbrded access to the city after the
destruction of the old bridge. It de-
scended close under Djeliel Mecid ;
then crossed the ravine, and reached the
gate close to the W. end of the briilge.
A new road and tunnel have been
made (1889) along tlie right bank of the
Koummid, from which superb views are
ohtaiiu'd of the ravine, the natural
bridgi's of rock, and the opposite cliff,
on whicli the Kasba stands.
Returning to the bridge of El-
Kantara, the traveller should now
cross tlie railway, and ascend Djebel
jMei;id to tlie large unlinished Iniilding
inteiidcil for an Arab college, now
occupied as a civil hosi)ital, ])assiiig on
tlie right the Jewish cemetery. The
ti>inbst()ii(!s are .solid blocks, a foot
tliick, laid upon the ground without
i'mi'c or distinction of any kind.
Lraving the hospital (ui the left, a
path descends tlic precipitous clill'to the
valic^y of the Ki)Uiiiniel. Before doing
this, th(! traveller should, if jiossible,
ascend l)jeli(d iMeeid to his right, for
tlie .sake of the line view it allbnls
over ConstantiiK' and its neighbour-
hood. There is a good view also from
the rock beyond the hospital, immedi-
ately ojiposite the Kasba. Tliis is
reaelied by a path through tin' jiiiie
plantation.
As the traveller descends into the
valley of the Houinniel lie has before
him a most beautiful vi<-w over the
Haiiima and the corn -lands beyond,
with high mountains in the distance.
At the bottom of the jirecipiee are
the warm batlis of Sidi .Sleeid, mu<h
frecpiented by both Arabs and French.
They are beautifully situateil in a
lu.xuriant garden. There is one ini-
nien.se .seini(,ireular piscine built by tlie
men of the (J3d Reg., two smaller ones,
and three jirivate bathing-places in the
sides of tiie roik, shut in by doors.
The water is beautifully clear, and lias
a temiierature of 8(3" Falir. Numerous
Roman inscriptions have been found iu
the vicinity, showing that it wa.s a
common custom to have country-houses
and gardens here. Two identii'al ones,
100 paces apart, which have often been
•[uoted, but which the writer has never
been able to timl, are exceptionally
interesting ; they are said to be carved
in bold letters on the jiolished surface
of the rock, and to contain the words :
I.IMIS FV.NDI SAI.LVSTIANI.
Did this actually indicate the limit of
the ]>roperty of Sallust, the great
historian and pro-consul, where he was
wont to come in his hours of leisure to
combine the charms of pliiloso])liy with
the more material pleasures of this life /
He had abundant means of ac(|uiring
))ropeity during his juo-consnlate, and
liis magniticciit house on the (,>uirinal
was enriched with the plunder of
Ilijipo, Kalama, Tagaste, and ("irta.
From tile ballis of Sidi .Meeid a path
winds uiuler the dill", and comes .sud-
denly ujion the bed of the Roummel,
at a point where the river falls over
several ledges of rock in a series of
]iicturesi|ue cascades. Opposite is the
perpendicular elill' of the K.'isba — the
Tarpeian rock «>f the Turkish city —
500 ft. above file river. It was over
this clilf that upwanls of 300 of the
inhabitants let themsidves down by
ropes, to escape the French. Most of
tliem jierished miserably. The stream
can here be crossed diyslmd, when not
swfdleii by rains. A path up it.s left
bank, close to the rai'c that carries water
to the Hour mills, should be f<dlow«'<l
\'.)-2
noDTK 11. IMIirjI'I'i;VTr,I,K TO COXSTANTIXE
A Irjeria
fill- ii sliort (listancp, for tlic sake; of the
\ ii'w of till' natural liiiil<,'es.
Ritiiriiiiif,' to tlio iiioutli of the K'^r^e,
a j^ooil roail winds past the Moulin
liavif, and up the hill to the Place
\'ali'e ; on tiie left, close under the clitf
called i5ordj el-A(;ous, ai'e the nf,^lectecl
ruins of the Tomb of the Silversmith G
I'riecilius, discovered in ISfiy. It had
two stories, both paved with mosaics,
and was formerly al)out 19 ft. long by
loft. wide. The exterior had a pavo-
nieut of mosaic, extending along the
length of the fayade. In the interior
iif the lower tomb are niches in the
walls for receiving the sarcoi)hagi.
One of these, which was removed and
opened, was found to contain a perfect
skeleton ; and on its stone side was a
long, but very inaccurate Latin in-
scription relating to Prrecilius, who was
a goldsmith or jeweller of Cirta, and
died at the age of more than 100 years,
after a jirosperous and enjoyable life.
The original inscription has been thus
translated by Mr.Alexander Graham : —
"Here silently I lie, describing my life in
verse. I have enjoyed a good reimtation and
the greatest of prosperity. Pra-ciliiis is my
naiiie. a native of Cirta, following the art of a
goldsmith. My honesty was extraordinary,
and I always stuck to the truth. I was court-
eons to every one, and never refused to sym-
pathise with others. I was merry and always
enjoyed pleasure with my dear friends. After
the death of the virtuous Lady A'aleria I
found life different. As long as I could, I
]iassed an agreeable and holy life. I have be-
cnmingly celebrated 100 happy birthdays,
liut the last day came when I must throw off
this mortal coil. While I was alive I made
]ireparation for my death. Fortune, which
has smiled upon me, never deserted me one
single instant. May she accompany you
through life, and may you arrive at the same
state as myself. Here I await you. Come ! "
Much of the mosaic work lias been de-
stroyed, but some of the devices may
still be traced. The lower storv is
built in the rock, but i>art of the walls
and all the roof have disappeared, and
the whole iilace is now in such a filthy
condition that it reijuires a consider-
able amount of courage to venture on
an (examination of it.
liiueatli the tomb of PraHnlius is
the Esplanade de la Breche, u.sed as a
market-place for the natives.
This walk finished, the traveller
would do well to hire a carriage, and
drive round the environ.s. Leaving
always by the Place Valec, he should
descend to the garden of the Poudrerie,
an order to see which will lie iiadily
gi'anted by the ofiicer commanding the
artillery in the Kasba. From this jilace
the best view of the cascade of the
Koumniel is obtained, and this is per-
haps the finest of all the views around
Constantine.
Regaining the main road, and fol-
lowing it nearly as far as the Pont
d'Aumale, the traveller should take the
road to El-JIila, which passes over a
smaller iron liridge to the left, and
mounts the hills on the left bank of the
river. The view looking back to Con-
stantine, with the fertile valley of the
Roummel in the foreground, brilliant
with every sliade of green, is more
beautiful than words can describe. 2^
kil. from the junction of the roads is
the small oasis of Salah Bey.
Even ill the times of the Romans
this w'as a favourite summer residence
of the inhabitants, and some traces of
their villas are still visible amongst
the cornfields.
Towards the close of last century
Salah Bey conceived the idea of build-
ing a palace here. He repaired the
cistern containing one of the hot
sj)rings which irrigate the place,
planted trees and commenced to build
a house. Unfortunately he incuiTed
the displeasure of the populace bj'' de-
capitating a much venerated saint, Si-
Mohammed, who attempted to overturn
his authority.
M. Cherbonneau relates the legend
that the body of the saint was trans-
formed into a crow, which, after much
sorrowful croaking, flew at once to the
country palace, which it cursed, and
then disappeared. The Bey, frightened
at the curse, erected a koubba to the
memory of the marabout, which lie
called Sidi Mohammed el-Ghorah, sig-
nif^'iug "My Lord Mohammed, the
Crow."
This koubba still exists, and in an
adjacent building are the tombs of
some of Salah Bey's family, but the
palace was despoiled by Ahmed Bey,
and all its ornamental work carried
Sect. II
nOUTE 11, CONSTANTINE
193
oir for tlie coiistriiction of liib palace in
Constantiuc.
Tlie traveller shoulil now return to
tlio Place Valec wlienee lie set out ;
liut instead of entering; the city he
should turn off to the right, descend the
hill past the Government Forage Park,
cross the Roummel by an iron bridge,
visit the Pepiniere a little beyond,
advance still farther, and, turning to
tile left, cross the wide sterile ]>lateau
111' J\lansoura, on the top of which is a
fortilied position containing the cavaliy
barracks. The view of the city from
tiiis point is particularly hue. It is
pleasant to observe how successfully
tills barren hill has been laid out with
Ale|)po pines ; the writer saw it before
a single tree was planted, and now
it alfords a delightfully shady retreat
foi' till' inhabitants of the city. The
road now descends the hill of Jlan-
soura, and, crossing behind the railway
station, enters the city by the liridge
of I'll-Kantaia.
From Maiisoiira a good view is ol)-
taiiied ol' tlie highest peak of Djelicl
Mi'cid, wlii(di commands the city, and
wliieli, on that account, has been
(iccuiiied by a defensive work. The
ruins of a Roman fort were found on
excavating the foundations ; it had 3
distinct enceintes, but no cisterns were
discovered.
Constantine itself hardly bears out
the expectations whicii will be formed
of it when seen from a distance. The
town is, as usual in Algeria, a mixture,
jiartly Arab and partly French ; and
liardly any traces now remain of the
splendid city of Cirla, of whicli it is
tlir successor.
Tlie Arab ([uarter is (juite as curious
as that of Algiers ; and appears to have
lieen left even more thoroughly un-
changed, though becoming every year
iimi-e circuTiiscribed in extent by French
iinin-ovemi'iits.
'hie nortli margin of the jilateau is
lined liy the Boulevards, excejiting at
tile nortiicrn corner, which is occuiiied
by the Kasba.
Near this point has been erected a
new Prefecture, from which there is a
very extensive view of the plain below.
The lower part of the town is still
\_Al(jeria.~\
entirely native, but it is contemplated
soon to drive a wide lunopean street
through the centre of it. Tlie Janis-
saries' Ijarracks, near the Ilntid d'Orieiit,
were demolished in 1874, and a covered
market and theatre have been erected
on the site.
The Place du Palais, bordered liy
rows of acacia-trees, is the most im-
portant of all the Places ; and in it is
the church of Notre Dame, the Cerch;
iMilitaire, and the best cafcs ; wliile
its N. side is formed by the palace of
Ahmed Bey, from which it takes its
name.
The Place Nc'jrier, at the northern
end of the Kue de France, is named
after Cleneral Ncgrier, who was at one
time commandant of tlie province. It
is triangular in form, is jilanted with
trees, has a fountain in the centre, and
is Ijounded on the N.W. side by tlie
mos([ue of Salali Bey.
Tlie Place des Gaieties, or Pahbai cs-
Sou/, between the Rue Combes and
the Ituc Vieux, is occupied by a
vegetable market, and being in the
native ipuutcr is exceedingly pic-
turesipie.
Churches and Musqnrs. — The Cathe-
dral of K6tre Dame des Hept Doulmrs,
in the Place du Palais, formerly
the niosijUe of Souk - el -G hazel, was
Iniilt by Abbas ben Alloul, in the
year 1730. The ancient "inimbar" or
pul)>it, which is richly ornamented,
still remains, as do also some gems
iif Moorish ornamentation in coloured
]ilaster and ancient tiles which) decor-
ated the original mosipie ; but tlie
aspect of the whole is mixed and in-
congruous, and the frescoes in the
sacrariuin are hideous.
Tile Djamaa el - Kebir, or Grand
Miis'/ue, in tlie Riic Natiniiale, is built
on the ruins of a Roman temple, wiiidi,
according to M. Clierbomieau, was for-
merly a jiantlieon, as two ins< liptions,
one to the Goddess of Concord innl
aiidlher to Venus, have been discoveretl.
On a pedestal, which formerly supported
I!)
KouTi: 1 1. i'iiii.irri;viLijc to constantink
Al(jeria
a statue, close to tlu; minaret, tliere
was an inscri|ition in Latin, vci.'onling
the name of tiie Roman (^lua'stor who
erreted it ; ami near tlie western gal-
lery one in Arable to commemorate the
deatli of Aloliammi'd Ibrahim, which
took ])laoe in the year 1221.
This mosque formerly stood in the
Place r>etha, but the construction of
tiie Rue Nationale caused that square
to disappear, together with the minaret
and part of the court of the niosipie.
A new fa(;ade has been built in the
street ; above the door is an Araljic
inscription in honour of Napoleon III,
which dill not share the fate of similar
inscriptions at the revolution.
Djamaa Sidi el-Kettani, known as
the moscpie of Salah Bey, in the Place
Negrier, of which it forms the western
side, is the liuest of all the mosques of
Constantine. It was erected by Salah
I'ey, who also built the adjoining
Mcdresa, or Ecclesiastical College, and
the Harem.
This mosque is entered by a largo,
arched, iron-bound door, beyond which
is a Hight of marble steps, partly black
and ])artly white, leading into a marble-
paved court, around which runs a cir-
cular gallery, and the interior is entered
from this court by two carved doors.
It is of a rectangular shape, and divided
into naves by columns of white marble.
The ceiling is of red and gi'een planks
])laced alternately, on which are painted
various designs. The whole is sur-
mounted by two cupolas. The " mihrab,"
corresponding to the Christian sacra-
rium, is a recess, the roof of which is
sup])orted bj- four columns, and deco-
rated with arabesques ; and the walls
are covered with variously -coloured
tiles. The " mimbar," or pul}iit, is
beautifully ornamented with marble,
agate, and other kinds of stone ; it
was brought from Italy, The fa9ade
and the minaret of this rao.sque
were reconstructed by the same
architect who patched up the Grand
Mos(iue.
At the end of the Court of the
Mcdresa are the Tombs of Salah Bey
and his family, surrounded by a railing,
and surmounted by a dome.
The Ilarcm of Salah liey, near the
MeJresa, is now converted into a school.
Djiuiuia Sifli el-Akhdar, in the Rue
Combes, which is used by the " Ilanefi "
.sect, is decorated internally, .something
in the same manner as that last de-
scribed, but in worse taste. The tomb-
stones in the ])lacc of burial bear the
names of many celebrated personages.
The mi'iuirct, nearly 80 ft. in lieight, is
of great beauty. It is of octagonal
shape with a projecting covered gallery
round the top.
There are several other mosques in
the city ; but those above described are
the best worth inspecting.
The Tomb of a famous saint of
ilorocco, which is constructed partly
out of Roman remains, is in the Rue
Combes. Entrance is obtained by
means of some stone steps, leading to
a vine-covered terrace, on to which the
tomb opens.
The Palace of Constantine is an
interesting building ; it is l)y no means
venerable in point of age, being the
work of i^l-IIadj Ahmed, the last Bey,
but it is an excellent tyi)e of Moori.sh
architecture, and it is constructed out
of materials of a much older date.
At the farther end of the Place du
Palais is seen a heavy and inelegant
mass of masonry, the appearance of
which is by no means improved by
being pierced with several modern
doors and windows, but on passing
the princiiial entrance this impression
is instantly dispelled. The central
space is occupied by a garden, round
which are cloistered walks and porticos
giving entrance to the various apart-
ments.
The site used to be a mass of filthy
lanes and crumbling houses. In 1826
El-Hadj Ahmed was named Bey, and
he immediately conceived the idea of
building a jialace worthy of the rulers
of Constantine. He commenced, by
fair means or foul, to obtain possession
of the ground necessary for his purpose.
A Genoese of the name of Schiaffino,
engaged in the exportation of grain at
Bone, was charged to procure from
Sect. II
ROUTE 11. CONSTANTINE
10.-.
Italy the marble necessary for the
work, which was laboriously lirought,
ready sculptured, on imiles from the
coast. Com[)laints of his extortion to
the Dey of Al<,'icrs caused the work to
be suspended for a time ; but in 1830,
becoming, by tlie fall of the Dey, abso-
lute master of the jirovince, he resumed
it with renewed vigour. He collected
liis workmen ; without the least scruple
he commenced to demolish the houses
which stood in his way ; all the prin-
cipal mansions of Constantino were
despoiled of their choicest works of art,
old encaustic tiles, marble columns,
carved woodwork ; the summer palace
of Salah Bey was entirely destroyed
in this manner. And so the palace,
which under ordinary circumstances
would have been the work of genera-
tions, rose as if by enchantment in
the short space of six years. It is of
an oblong shape, with an area of [)GO'J
sijuare metres. It contains three
princi[)al buildings of two stories, con-
sisting of numerous small rooms open-
ing into wide galleries supported by
columns.
Between two gardens is the Bey's
pavilion, now the private odice of the
general, joined to the rest of the
building by a cloister supported by
a triple range of columns. Through-
out the whole building the differ-
ent styles of these ]>illars indicate
the diversity of sources from which
they were olatained ; some are slender
and elegant, others heavy ami massive,
with every variety of form, round,
sipiare, octagonal and twisted ; their
capitals are equally heterogeneous, but
tlie effect of all, surmounted by the
elegant Moorish arch, is good, though
marred by the dead black colour of the
arches and the ungainly draperies de-
picted above them.
The main walls for a height of several
feet are covered with beautiful old tiles,
while above them are ridiculous frescoes
representing flowers, fruit, grotesque
views of cities, fort.s, and vessels, .said
to be the work of Christian jirisoners.
In some of the upi>er rooms are most
exquisite specimens of Arab carpentry
in old oak and cedar.
Space does not admit a detailed de-
scription of this palace ; the visitor
will I.I- shown the chamber where the
Kmperor slept, the hall of arms, tro-
jihies of the various campaigns mailo
in the province, the Bey's throne, and
other interesting objects ; but nothing
will plea.se him more than a walk round
the lower cloisters which surround the
gardens.
The ])alace is now the residence of
the general commanding the division,
and contains various jiuldic ollices con-
nected with his command, such as the
direction of Engineers, Artillery, etc.
The Easbah, or Citadel, at the N.
corner of the town, has been entirely
modernised by the French, who have
built in it three separate Batracls,
capable of containing together 3000
men ; exceedingly comfortable, no
doubt, for the soldiers, but a blot in
the magnificence of the landscajie.
The original building was erected by
the Romans, who also constructed
the Cisterns, which were discovered
while making the necessary excava-
tions for the new works. They are of
great extent. Shaw says that in his
time they were 20 in number, having
nn area of 50 yards scjuare. The large
Roman magazine for storing corn has
been discovered more rei'ently. Tlie
French have erected within the walls
a fine HoKjnfal for 1500 persons, which
is nursed by the sisters of St. Vincent
de Pjiul. At the time of the French
siege the Kasbah was the last strong-
hold of the Arabs, who there made
a desperate defence against General
Rulhieres ; and finally, sooner than
fall into the hands of the invaders,
hundreds of the besieged — men,
women, and children — attempted to
lower themselves into the gorge by
means of ropes. Through being over-
loaded many of these broke ; and the
bed of the ravine soon presented a
frightful sjicctacle of lieai>s of mangled
bo(lies of tlie dead and dying.
Numerous Homan remains have Ik-cu
and are still being diseoverod at this
s]tot ; and tlie walls of tlie Kasbah are
decorated with many inseriptions whieh
have been let into them, lioth inside
and out. One of these, on a sjdit
I '.)()
RODTIO 11. rillLIITKVILLE TO CONSTANTINE
Abjcria
.stone, iiiciitioiis Ukj same ollicur to
wlioiii tliu stone at the 15ab el-Djabia
was dedicated. It runs : —
n*- I o Y/\ \ohh' \\ctAINIoN
MAPK |i A InoN ,
n PECBEY|T!-i |M<CGEACr/
TcoM^'ANTI jC T |PAr H roH
rnAToM'Ml fiYAH KAIO
C0^<'HHTPOmo .ICCDC^THC'A
PABIAC'.^'- .fTAlOY Al^i^L
OY^ rTPecB£r/TiY'-GYeprGTi-K-^
eewTec <^ YfTiAvrb^'-A M € G€
c|an|
It appears to commemorate a statue
raised to Maroianiis by the district that
liad 1)ene(ited by his rule.
The olHeers and soldiers Avho fell in
tlie sieges of 183tJ-37 are buried within
tlie fort, under a monument record-
ing their names, which include those
of Generals Damremont, Perregaux,
Combes, Yieux, and Serigny.
The traveller should not fail to visit
tlie Garden of the Artillery, in the
Kasbali, from wliirh a niagnitiecnt view,
looking down into the ravine of the
Uoummel, is obtained.
The Palais de Justice, in the Rue
Totier, is a rather handsome building.
Tlie Museum is in one of the rooms
of the ^lairie. It contains a collec-
tion of antiquities, some of wdiich are
exceedingly interesting, especially a
bronze statuette of the winged hgure
of Vidory, which was discovered be-
neath the Kasbah, and presented to the
Museum by Col. Ribot. This is one of
the most exquisite objects of art ever
found iu Algeria. A fine model of the
Medrassen is also deposited there.
Opposite tiie public garden is a collec-
tion of larger objects, such as statues,
columns, tombstones, friezes, etc. It
is curious to remark that the monu-
mental inscriptions appear to indicate
tiiat the inhabitants of Constantine
were celebrated for longevity, many of
them exceeding the age of 100 years !
^1. Cherbouueau gives a list of 15 tomb-
stones observed by him at Constantino
recording ages from 100 to 131 years.
There are very remarkable subter-
ranean passages under the city, the
entrances to which are now* biicked up.
An eye-witness thus describes us ;■ —
"In 1858, visiting in comjiany with
my learned friend, M. Clierbonneau,
the courtyard of Ben Zaghbib's house,
now occupied by Dr. V , we were
shown a gate, by which we descended
into a subterranean passage, high,
spacious, and solidly built, like that in
the Tomlieau de la Chn'tienne. Here
the inhabitants took refuge during the
siege of Constantine by the French in
1837. We dared not penetrate far, as
there was a perfect labyrinth of pass-
ages, blocked up by square stones,
earth, and the filth of ages. But what
we saw sulliciently confirmed the native
tradition that Constantine is built on
vaults, intended not merely to sustain
the superstructure, but probably to
serve as storehouses for provisions,
material of war, etc., and that one can
walk all round the city underground.
The insular position of the city, whicli
rendered all extension of its area im-
possible, may have caused the constnic-
tion of these underground passages and
vaults as storehouses in time of peace,
and ]ilaces of refuge during sieges.
' ' We saw another door leading into
them a few steps in front of the gi'eat
mosque, but the Arabs declare that
there are two principal orifices besides,
one in the Kasbah, and one near the
Porte de la Breche."
Water is supplied to Constantine by
means of an aqueduct, which brings a
copious stream from Ai'n-Fesgiah, 60
kil. on the road to Batua, into the
city. The Roman cisterns, containing
12,000 cubic metres, have been re-
paired, and are supplied from Djchcl
Oiuichc, by another aqueduct which
crosses the ravine by the bridge El-
Kantara. This supply is now used
only for the Kasbah, and as a reserve
in case of drought or siege.
The Stone Pyramid, erected to com-
memorate the death of Governor-General
Conite de Damremont, stands outside
the city, near the junction of the roads
Sect. II
ROUTE 11. EXCDRSIONS NEAR CONSTANTINE
19:
fioin Setif and liatna. An insiiiption
in Frencli records Ids dcatli, wldcli
took placi- on 12th October 1837, wlulc
visiting the batteries. 'J'lie .sanie in-
scription in Arabic is on the S. .side of
tlie ])yranud. He was killed l>y a bullet
almost at the same time that General
Perregaux was mortally wounded. Con-
stantine was taken b}' assault on the
following day, General Valce having
assumed the chief command.
Markets and Manufactures. — There
are several largo markets at Constan-
tine, among winch may be mentioned
tlie corn market, held outside the Place
Valce, whicli is the most important in
Algeria. Tlie municipal duty charged
for weighing grain there, produced in
1873 nearly half a million francs. The
vcgetalde, fruit, and fish market is next
to the Motel d'Orieiit.
The chief manufactures of Constan-
tine are leather goods, such as shoes,
saddles and harness, and articles of
emltroidcred leather, some of which are
of great licauty, and woollen falnics,
especially Jlails and Iliiniouscs. It is
estimated that nearly 100,000 of these
garments are woven yearly in Constan -
tine. The finest and mo.st expensive
Icind, called (Idnilduras, are made partly
iif wool and i)aitly of silk, and aic
beautifully soft and fine. TlcIUa, or
tent cloth, is also extensively woven.
Tlie chief commerce is in cereals and
wool.
Excursions in tiik NKioniioruiiooi).
Bou Merzoug.O — An interesting ex-
]iedition to tlie student of prehistoric
remains is to the source of the Bou
iMivzour], which formerly supplied Con-
stantine with water. Here, over an
immense extent of hill and valley, not
less than 12 kil. in length, are found
almost ev(!ry known typi^ of niegalitliic
monuments. These were first e.\plore<l
liy Mr. Christy and M. Fcraud in 1S(I3,
wiio examined more than a thousand
<liiring the three days of tlieir stay
tliero. This fountain is the only known
habitat of a curious little fish, the Tillin
apnda (see p. 72).
Djebel Ouache. — A pleasant drive of
G kil. is to Dj. Ouache, more correctly
ll'((/«tsh (wild or savage mountain
Here are situated the reservoirs con
structed for sujiplyiiig Constantine with
water, and on which it was depcntlent
before those of Ain-Fe.sgiali were con
veyed to tlie town. The basins ai'
now used jjrincipally for the supply ot
the Kasha, and the plateau of Mansoura.
I'eautiful ])lantations have been made
here, and what will particularly interest
the traveller, a considerable number
of the rare African jdnsapos (see p.
118), glowing side by side with the
better known variety of Spain.
Es-Soumah and Mahadjiba.O— This
excursion is liest made on horseback,
in two days, spending the night at the
village of El-Aria, but there is a good
carriage - road all the way. The tra-
vellers will have to diverge a little from
the liigh road to reach the Roman ruins
described.
Es-Soumah may easily be reached on
foot from Le-Khroub, a station on the
railway, which is only 3 kil. from it.
It is callcil by the Arabs Es-Souni.ili,
the minaret, a term which they habitu-
ally employ to designate any amii-nt
mausoleum or tower- like monument.
Europeans generally, but erroneously,
call it the "Tomb of Constantine."
The ruins of this (uice lieautiful edi-
fice, the history of which is <piito un-
known, are in the purest Doric style,
and jnobably date from the 1st cent.
It is Iiuilt on a mound neai- the eastern
boundary of the territory of Cirta, as
has been jiroved by the discovery of a
stone bearing the inscription A.P.C.
{(Hjcr public UH Cirlcnsiuiii), and close to
the high road between that city and
Kalama on the one hand and Lambessa
on the other. Its object w.as either to
serve as the mausoleum of some dis-
tinguished person, or to conimeinonito
a great vi<'toiy.
The building, as it now cxist.s, is
comi)oscd of three nrincipal jiarts, a
sipiarc base, of nearly 3 inetifs higli,
surmounted by thne gr.idieiit.s, c.ach
0\^4 metre in height. Above these
gradients rises a jilinth of 1"10 metre,
crowned by a splendid cornice, of n
I!)8
ROUTE 1 I. niii.i.ri'i'Kvrrjj': to constantine
A Ifjeria
l)<)lil ami linn, yet. rdiiiiMl cliariictrr,
iiii'iisiiriii;^ U'70 iiu'lic. in li(.'i;^lit. At,
tliis level a coiiisi! (if stones O'Ui metre
lii;,'li, retired Iroiii the coriiifc ])y OoO
metre on all sides, extends like a pave-
ment over the upper surfaee of the
momunent, and serves as a footinfj to
Idiir s(piaro pillars that occupy each
an,L;le, li'avinj,' a distance outside of
nearly a yard on i\w. two exterior faces.
The courses of stone in the pillars
are 0'61 metre high, and 1"74 metre on
each side. Prominent round bucklers
decorate the outward faces of each
of these pillars.
Unfortunately at this point the
monument has been tlirown to the
ground, and it is amongst the ruins
that a search uiust be made for the
completion and restoratiou of the build-
ings. No doubt earthquakes contri-
buted greatly to its destruction, but
there is abundant evidence that the
hand of man was not foreign to the
work. Part of the material is scattered
in every direction, but it is principally
on the N. side that it lies heaped
u]) to the level of the lloor.
About 10 m. farther, on the old road
between Constantine and Guelma, are
the ruins of Mahadjiba,0 or Kasr-el-
Mahdjouba, the Cadlc of the Fcnialc
Recluse and the Seniore of the Itiner-
ary of Antoninus.
The position of this city or strong-
hold was admirably chosen from a
strategic point of view, being built on
an isolated hill, the top of which is a
rough triangle rising abruptly from the
plain, and sloping backwards towards
its base in a series of terraces.
In front of it is an extensive stretch
of rich corn and pasture land, reaching
as far as Constautine, while behind it
on the south is a nari'ow pass in the
Fedj-bou-Ghareb, a remarkable scarped
hill of conn)act limestone, giving access
to the plain of the Amer Cheraga and
Oiied Zenati, in which are situated
83,000 out of the 100,000 hectares of
land so lavishly granted to the Societe
Generale Algerieuue by the late Em-
peror.
Thus this position completely com-
inamlcd the ancient highway between
Cirta and Kalama, as it now commands
the Aiah road between Constantine and
(iuelnui.
The whole hill is covered with tlie
remains of buildings constructed of
huge blocks of cut stone ; .some of the
walls are entii-e to above the level of
the first lloor, the holes for the recep-
tion of the joists being distinctly
visible. The pi'incipal and best pre-
served edifice is the tower, from which
the ruins derive their Arab name, an
elegant and massive building, which
perha[)S formed the citadel of the ])lace.
At the base of the hill below the citadel
is an arch of cut stone, giving access to
a subterranean passage, whence flowed
a stream of water. This is now choked
up, and the water has forced itself a
passage through the debris about a
hundred yards farther down, where it
has created a little oasis of trees, the
only ones as far as the eye can reach.
On the ojiposite side of the valley is
El-Aria, a village founded in 187o,
where the traveller will be able to find
accommodation for the night, and he
can return to Constantine on the follow-
ing morning either by the high road
or by a shorter bridle-path over the
hills.
El-Klieneg.9 — Avery interesting ex-
cursion, which, however, must be made
on horseback, is to the ruins of El-
Khcneg, erroneously called by the
Arabs Kosentina-Kcdima, or old Con-
stantine, — in reality the ancient Pionian
Eesjtublica Tidditanorum. It is situated
about 23 kil. N.W. of Constantine, on
the same river which flows past the
capital, and the general character of
the ground on which the two cities are
situated is very similar. There are
very well preserved remains of a Roman
road, a Roman citadel restored by the
Byzantines, many other ruins of the
same character, and numerous dolmens.
About 4 kil. E. of it, and the same
distance from the confluence of the
Cued Smendou and the Cued El-Kebir,
by which name the Roummel is here
called, is the Tomb of Lollius. It is of
a cylindrical shape, 20-30 metres in
diameter and 5 "50 metres high, raised
on a base. It appears to have been a
Sect. II ROUTE 12. CONSTAXTINF. TO ALOIKRS BY THK CHABET
199
cenotaph raised liy Jlaicus Lollius to
five ]neiiil)ers of liis I'aiiiily. It lioie
the following iiisiriiition :—
M . LOLLIO . SENKCIONI . PATUI
GRANIAK . HONOUATAE . MATIII
L . I.OLLIO . SENEOIONI . KUATllI
M . LOLLIO . IIONOUATO . KllATRI
P . CJRANIO . I'AVLO . AVONOVLO
Q . LOLLIUS . VUniCVS . PRAEP . VRIilS .
The last name, the founder of the
iiionunient, is the same person heforc
wliom ApuleiuK, author of the " Golde7i
Ass," so eloquently ]ilcaded liis eause
when summoned to the trilmnal of the
])ro- consul Claudius Jhiximus on a
charge of frauil and sorcery. The
I'aiilily of Granius, mentioned in the
previous lines, were the plaintiffs in the
ca.se. This monument, therefore, is
one possessing the deepest historical
interest.
The epitaph of Lollius himself was
found at Kheneg, and was as follows : —
<J . LOLLIO . M . KILIO .
QViii . vuiiieo . co.s .
LEO . AVO . PROVINC . OERM .
INKERIORIS . KETIALI . LEOATO .
IMP . HADKIANI . IN . EXPEDION
.IVDAICA . (iVA . DONATVS . EST
HA.STA . PVRA . t:ORONA . AVREA . LEO .
LEO . X . CJE.MINAE . PRAET . CANDIDAT .
PROCOS . ASIAE . QVEST . VRBIS . TRIll
LATICLAVIO . LEO . XXII . PRIMIOENIAE .
nil VIUO. VIAUVM . CVRAND .
D.D. PATUONO P.P.
To Quiiitus Lollius, son of Marcus (of tlie
tribe ol) Quirina (suriiaiiieil) Uiliiciis ; Consul,
Lf't;ate of the EmiuM'or in the lu'ovincc of
I^ower Germany ; Fet ial, Legate of the Empe-
ror Hadrian in the exjiedition to Jiuloa, where
li(! was iiresented with a imre lance (or with-
out an iron head), a crown of gold ; Legate of
tlie Xth liCgion Ciemina, I'nrtor Candidate of
Ciesar, Tiiliuno of the Peo])le, Candidate of
C;esar, Legate of his Pro -Consul of Asia,
Quiestor of the City ; Tribune laticlare of the
.X.XII. Legion I'rimigcnia, one of the Four
liisiiectors of Roads ; I'atron. By the decree
of the dccurions, and at the public expense.
Dolmens of Kheneg.O — On the R. W.
deelivity of the rocky crest of Kcf-oum-
liadidan, at 500 "metres from tht'
remains of the Roman citadel, are 3
ilohnens close togetlier ; th(^ Hat slniis
are 2'30 to 2'riO, and the ujiriglit ones
1 -rtO in height. Kiiclosures of rough
Mocks, of irregular .shape, surround
lliem, leaving only a narrow passage
Iirtween them and tlio dolmrii. Tliey
are called hy the natives El-Haounet,
the shops. A few steps fartlier down
are the remains of several more, and
amon^rst them some of a circular form.
r.OUTE 12.
Constantine to Algiers, by the
Chabet el Akhira.
From Constantine to Setif there are
two trains daily. From Setif to liougie
there is a service of diligences daily,
starting at a very early hour in the
morning, and taking about 14 hours ;
l)Ut it is best to hire a carriage and
make the journey in two days, speml-
ing the night at Kharata.
For several reasons it is more a<lvis-
able to make the journey from Setif to
liougie than from liougie to Setif: it
is always easier to descend a hill than
to mount one ; the .scenery is far grander
looking down than looking u|i ; and it
is lietter to pass through the tamer
sc'cnery first, and thus prevent the
grandeur of the Chabet from dwarfing
what, under any other circumstances,
would be considered a very beautiful
landsca])0. The diligence is muih
clica])cr and not at all bad when de-
scending, but the traveller should avoid
it when ascending, as it starts so early
that owing to darkness he misses some
of the finest scenery, which is not the
case when leaving Setif.
Almost any amount of inconvenience
will be repaid by the magnificence of
the scenery lietween Kharata and Ca]i
Okas, which is hardly to be surpassed
in any part of the world. Tiiere is
certainly nothing to equal it witliin
ea.sy range of the basin of the Mediter-
ranean, except jierliaps in Corsica.
It was the Commaiidaut Capdejiont
who made the fir^t recoiinais.sanee of
the C/iithct-il-Jl/iini, and .suggested it
as a route between Setif ami the sen.
M. L'Epinay was the engineer wlio first
reduced this idea to a luactical form :
the route was traced by the military
eiigineei-s, and subsequently completed
by tlie department of the I'inil.s rt
200
llOUTK 1 2. C'ONSTANTINH TO ALGIERS BY THE CHABET Algeria
Chmissd's, uiidar M. du Laiiiioy, in
IS 73.
It oIl'iTM tlic (li)ulil(t a(lvantaf,'c of
liciii;^' sliortcr lliaii any otlicr route, as
il rcilui'cs tlio distance l)et\veeii Setif
and tiie sea to 102 kil., and it traverses
for a shorter distance the region wlierc
snows may impede circulation in
winter.
Many travellers who do not intend
visiting Constantine may content them-
selves with a journey from Bougie
to Kharata and back (see p. 114).
Setif. (Seep. 160.)
The road leaves Setif hy the I'ortc dc
Bougie, and crossing the parade-ground
descends the valley of Fermatou, crosses
(lie head of the river Bou Selam, and
arrives at
4 kil. Fermatou. A small village on
the left of the road.
At 4 kil. N. E. are the Roman ruins
oi A'iii-cl-Hadjar ['ii^vhig of the Stone).
The road then crosses the Oued
Goussimet, near which branches off
another horse-path to the W., which,
nuiking a considerable circuit, rejoins
the new road beyond Ta Kitount.
The road now pursues a northerly
direction, through a series of richly
cultivated valleys belonging to the
Com])agnie Genevoise.
11 kil. El-Ouiricia. A small village
belonging to the same company. It was
entirely destroyed during the insurrec-
tion, and one of the colonists who
refused to leave Ills property was mur-
dered, but it has been rebuilt since
then. Here a road branches oft' to the
right, leading to a farm of the Geneva
Company.
14 kil. Road crosses a long chain of
hills running E. and W., the eastern
])eak of which is Djcbel Assel, and
Maunt Babor bursts into view.
15 kil. Bordj of Kaid Mansour on
left of road. Lower down numerous
Kabyle villages and gardens along the
Oucd Faid.
21 kil. Aln-Maghramma. Relay.
22 kil. The road here takes a N.AV.
direction, following the course of an
allhicnt of the Oucd hou-Tafsa to
28 kil. Lcs AmmoHcha.
32 kil. Col dr Ta Kilovnt, where
is a small roadside auberge. Shortly
before reaching it, on the left-hand
side, is a spring of feiTUgiiious ai-rateil
water, very agreealile to drink, and
which is bottled off ami sent all ovci-
the country. From the Col is seen the
fort of Ta Kitount, perched on an
elevation to the left. It resisted all
the attempts of the Kabyles to take it
in 1871. It is situated 3448 ft. above
the sea, and commands a splendid view
of the country round. The ])iesent
fort is built on the site of a Roman
work, as is proved by the numerous
fragments of sculpture, coins, etc.,
which have from time to time been
found here.
47 kiL After a rapid descent to -the
bed of the Oued Berd, the road turas
to the left and crosses an affluent of
that river, the Oued Allaha, by a lattice
bridge.
Not far from this spot is the hot
alkaline spring of JIainman Gcrgour.
Bej'ond this a bridge crosses the
Oued Berd, carrying the road to the
right bank of that river. It now crosses
several streams, one of which, the Oued
Tamala, is salt, and reaches
53 kil. Kharata, where is a fairly
good hotel.
Up to this point the scenery is very
fine, but it is at Kharata that the
gorge of the Chabet-el-Akhira com-
mences.
Kliarata is 1280 ft. above the level
of the sea, and possesses a tine summer
climate. The gorge acts as a huge
windsail, so that even during the hot-
test days of summer there is always
a fresh breeze blowing through it from
the sea.
[From Kliaratn an excursion might
be made to the top of Mount Babor.
The ascent is by no means a difficult
one, and may be made nearh' to the
summit on mules. It would be as
well to take a tent and camp for two
ilights at the village of Oulad Scad,
or any other near the top, and devote
the intervening day to an exploration
of the summit. Guides and mules
can easily be procured at Kharata,
and the hospitality of the Kabyles to
travellers is proverbial. (See also p.
118.)
Sect. II ROUTE 1 2. CONSTANTINE TO ALGIERS BY THE CHABET
201
Bdbor is 6447 ft. al)ovc the level of
the sea ; the suinmit, which is covertMl
with snow during a great jmrtion of
tlie winter ami spring, is crowned with
a forest of cedars and jiinsapos. The
latter is a variety of the Spanisli
species Picea Finsapo, and is found
only on two peaks of the Atlas, Bahor
and Ta-Bahort, whore it was dis-
covered in 1861. It is remarkable for
tlie pyriuniilal form of its trunk and
top, and lor the hardness and compact-
ness of its timber.
The forests on the two peaks have
an area of 9000 acres, but for all prac-
tical purposes they are unapproachable.
The view from the peaks is exceed-
ingly grand. Care, however, should
be taken not to attempt the ascent save
in very settled weather. May and
November are the best months, the
former especially, as then the country
is clad in its vernal tints.]
Immediately beyond Kharata com-
mences the entrance to the gorge, and
tlie first idea that crosses the traveller's
mind is the powerlessness of words to
depict scenery so grand.
A huge defile, 7 kil. in length, winds
in a tortuous manner between two
mountains, from 5000 ft. to 6000 ft.
high. At the bottom, an impetuous
torrent lias worn itself a deej) and
narrow channel, from either side of
wliich the rocks arise sometimes almost
perpendicularly, sometimes actually
overhanging the bed of the river, to a
height of nearly 1000 ft. So narrow
is this gorge, tliat although the road
is cut in tile side, at from 100 to 400
ft. from the bottom, there is hardly
any spot where a stone could not be
tlirown from one bank to another, and
so steep is it, that before the first trace
of the road was made by the French
an Arab conld not pass along it on
foot ! The only means of approaching
it was by descending and ascending
tlie lateral valleys, and exploring a
small jiortion of the main ravine on
each side of them.
For about half its length the ro.ad
passes along the right l)ank ; it then
crosses to the left side l)y a curved
bridgojof seven arches, which side it
subsequently follows during its whole
course. There are numerou.s lateral
valleys, each iidding its tribute of water
to the main stream, fret|uently by the
most beautiful cascades.
The peculiar vertical stratification
to be seen here is in some jdaces not
unlike that of the Porksdc-Fcr, but
the substance being harder, it docs
not form itself into such grotcajue
slia]ies.
Wherever there is a .slo])e sufTicicnt
to retain a little earth, it is covered
with luxuriant vegetation ; and as the
road apjiioaches the end, trees become
more abundant, and finally the slopes
are clothed with a forest of cork and
other oak trees.
On a stone, about the middle, is
engraved the legend — " ics premiers
siifdiifs qui passircnt sur ccs rives furcitt
(Irs Tiraillciirs, commandis par MM.
iJesmaisons, etc., 7 Avril, 1864."
Troo])S of monkeys are often met
here, and the holes and caves in the
rocks afford shelter to great coveys
of pigeons, themselves the objects of
attraction to the eagles seen soaring
above.
61 kil. The gorge ends ; on a rock
to the left is carved the in.scnption : —
roNTS ET rHArss^f^s
SETIK.
CHABET-EL-AKHIKA
TBAVAU.X EXECUrfe
1803-70.
The bordj of Kaid Ilnssni is some
little distance ofiT, amongst tlie hills ;
this is in the country of the Bnii
Is)n/i.il, and it is here that the short cut
from Cap Okus joins the high road.
The scenery from this jmint, though
of a ditlereiit character, is hardly less
licautiful than the Chabet. The river
here takes the nanio of Oind ylijriinin,
and the hills on each side witleiiing
out, it flows along a much wider bed
in the most iieautifiil tortuous manner,
through thickets of oleanders.
This region is finely woodeil ; tlie sum-
mits of the hills are covered with pim -
and cedars, .-ind their slopes, furrowed in
every direcfion with ]ierennial streams,
arc clotheil with forests of cork and
other varieties of oak, tlie finest of
which is the C/i^nr. Zain (Qucrcns
202
HfHTIO 1 :}. FROM IIOUOIK TO nRNI-MANSOUH
A hjeria
MIrhrckii), wliilo tlif ^'I'ound amoiifjst
tlinii is lirilliiuit witli liiackc^ii, lioatli
(h'n'ai (irhori'ii), myrtle, iiiid a tliou.saml
\\ii(l llowui's (>r(!veiy tint ami liue.
The iiiiiicial wealth of these hills
is also great, thonf,'h hardly at all
developed ; rieh mines of iron, copper,
and arf^entifcrous lead ore have been
discovered, and only await means of
I'onvcyance to the coast to enable them
to be worked with advantage.
77 kil. The road now leaves the Oued
A(jrioun, and turning westwards, passes
along a plain covered with brush-
wi.>od and some fine trees. Here, and
all along tlie route to Bougie, are noble
specimens of the Atlas ash {Fraxinus
ylndralifi), which, in its s])ring foliage,
is most beautiful. Grand old olives
ndxed with them afford, by their more
sombre green, a grateful contrast to the
lighter tints of the other.
85 kil. Sidi Rchcur, a small inn,
"Rendezvous de Chasse," affords sleep-
ing accommodation if necessary,
87 kil. Here commences the ascent
of Cap Okas.
This is a bold and bluff promontory
jutting out into the sea, on the vertical
clilf of which a road has been rather
excavated than built, at a height of
100 ft. above the sea, like the stern
gallery of an old ship of the line. The
view both E. and W. is most beautiful ;
on one side is a long stretch of beach
fringed with green, behind which rise
the hills whence the traveller has just
emerged, and beyond these the more
distant blue mountains culminating in
the snow-clad peak of Babor. On the
other is the Gulf of Bougie, a vast
amphitheatre of water bounded by the
most picturesque mountains.
Near Cap Okas is the tomb of a
venerated saint, tSi - Molinmmccl bin
Nasir, a man of such holiness that,
though living in absolute solitude,
wlienever he began to praj' the Mara-
bouts of all other countries flocked to
him in the form of birds to hear but
tlie sound of his voice !
9'> kil. TicJii/, a small wayside jiost-
offiee.
The road now^ crosses the Oucd
Djcmda, and traverses the plain of
liougie l)(;tween well-wooded mountains
and tlie sea.
'J'his })lain is to a great extent over-
grown with ])rushwood an<l l)racken,
but it is fertile and well watered, and
was highly cultivated by the Romans,
as the remains of farms and liydraulic
works testify. During the first years
after the conquest it was the scene of
constant combats, and even in 1871 it
was occu[iied by the Kabyles, and all
the Euro})ean buildings on it destroyed.
At first it was a hot-bed of malaria,
but as soon as it was po.ssible for the
French troops to commence works of
drainage, the malaria disappeared.
105 kil. The Oucd Soumam, the
name here given to the Oucd es-Sahel,
is crossed by an iron lattice bridge ;
the road subsequently passes over
several other streams and reaches
112 kil. Bougie. (See Rtc. 1.)
ROUTE 13.
From Bougie to Beni Mansour and
on to Algiers by Railway.
^il.
Kil
Bougie ....
. 89
ii
La Reunion .
. 77
24.
El-Ksenr
. fi5
32.
EI-Maton
. 57
42.
Sidi-Aieh
. 47
47.
Takriets
. 42
64.
Iglizer-Amokran .
. 35
58.
Azib-ben-Ali-Cherif
. 31
Go.
Akbou ....
. 24
7(3.
Allaglian
. 13
81.
Taznialt
. S
89.
Beni-Mansour
This line ascends the Oued es-SaJicl,
which commences near Aumale, and ter-
minates in the Gulf of Bougie, at 4 kil.
E. of that city. This river, known to the
ancient geographers by the name of
A^asain, Nasoua, or Kasahcth, like
most of the rivers of Algeria, changes
its name according to the territory it
traverses. Thus it is succcssivelj^ called
Oucd Akbou, Oucd Soumam, 0. Bcni
Mcsnoud, and Oued cl-Kcbir, the great
river. Its mean breadth is 40 metres,
but in some places it is as much as 200
meti-es wide, and its depth is equally
Sect. II
ROUTK ] 3. FROM BOUCilE TO ISKNI-MANSOUR
203
variable. Its priiRijial allhu'iits arc, on
tlie riglit ])aiik, the Oucd bou-Scllam,
coming from near Setif, ami the Oual
Amazin, wliicli descemls from f/uifsar.
Tiie only important one on tht; left
liank is the Oucd Glicir. In snmnier
the water decreases greatly, and more
than half its bed is dry ; but in winter
it swells with every fall of rain, and
becomes a formidable torrc^nt.
In 1847 Alarshal Bugeaud descended
it to Bougie, where he met the column
of General Bedeau from Constantine,
which had come by Setif ; these were
the first French troops who made a
reconnaissance of this ])ai't of Kabylia.
Many of the tribes tendered their sub-
mission to these officers, and later, in
1849, Generals de Sallcs and Saint
Arnaud, after a severe struggle, con-
(juered the Beni Seliman, and again
visited the tribes who had before sub-
mitted.
This valley has always been ready to
rise on the slightest provoiation. It
was the scene of the insniTcction of
l!ou Baghal, and it was from Seddouk,
file residence of the Haddad family,
that the mot d'urdrc was given which
spread the llames of revolt over Kabvlia
in 1871 (see p. 60).
The principal riches of the district
are olive oil, honey, wax, and gi-apes ;
the last are rarely made into wine, but
sent to the market at Algiers, where
tiiey arrive after all the others are over,
and command a high jtriee. They are
also made into raisins.
12 kil. La Jieiinion, a village near
the Oued Gheir, created in 1872.
After ])assing this village is the Tum-
Jicnu dc la Nicgc, a monument erected
in honour of a companj' of French
soldiers lost in a snowstorm.
24 kil. El-Ksear. On the S. of the
line are the ruins of El-Kseur.
The name "The Palace" has been
given on account of the ruin of an en-
trenched cam]i, built in hi'liin, by Abou
Tachefin, Sultan fif Tiemcen, about
A.D. 1327, during his futile attempt to
take the city of Bougie, lie retired in
the following year, leaving, however,
troops stiitioiu'd along the Oued es-
Sahei.
About 1 V\\. from it are the ruins
of Tih-l(it,Q the ancient Tubu.suptus. A
very fine cistern still remains, capable
of containing 12,000 cubic mitres of
water.
From this jjlace there will branch olf
a road to I'izi-Oiizoa, whieli is rapidly
approaching completion.
On the opposite bank of the river is
Oucd Amisctir, It is situated about
3 kil. from the right bank, and 20 kil.
from Bougie. A road will eventuall)'
lonneet it with Bougie iiy tho right
bank of the river.
32 kil. El-Matcn, a small village
near the Oued Tifera : north of- the
line, on tlie hill above is a Kabyle
village of the .same name.
42 kil. Sidi-Aich, an imjiortaiit
village where a market is held eveiy
Wednesday. The land is well suited
for the growth of figs, olives and otlier
fruit. The ailministrator of tho di.strict
resides here. Numerous Kabyle villages
may be seen jierched on the liillsitles
in every direction.
The line now cros.ses the valley by a
fine viaduct.
47 kil. Tall-ills, a road to the S. con-
ducts to Seddouk, the country of the
famous Iladilad family, whose chief,
Sheikli .Mohammed Amzian ben AH Kl-
Haihlad, Jlokaddem of the gre.at re-
ligious confraternity of Sidi Molummicd
boa Kolnrain, from his cell at Snldouk,
which he had not rpiitted for many
years, in one day set the whole of
Kabylia in llames. 'Without his order
the insurrection of 1871 could never
have extended to Kabylia. He died in
Constantino a few days after his con-
demnation ; his body was embalmed,
and will no doubt one day be trans-
ported to Kabylia, hereafter to become
an object of venemtion f«>r future gener-
ations, if iiermitted by tlie French. His
sons weie also .sentenced to ju-rpetual
imprisonment in New Caledonia, but
eseajied.
ri4 kil. Ighzcr-Aviokrnn.
.^.8 kil. Azib-bcH-Ali-C/u'rif, the
charming i-osidence of the well-known
person wiio.se name it bears.
Si Mohammed Said ben Ali Clierif
is descended from a Moroccan Clierif.
Moulai Al)d-es-Selam ben Machiclie,
who settled there in llio 18th century.
204
ROUTK 14. CONSTANTINK TO HATNA AND TilSKRA.
A Ifjiiria
lie iiiMiiii'il tlic (l;iu;^'litcr of tlio Miira-
lioiit "f llloula, and their (lescciidaiits
Iiavo v.wx siiKH' been at tli(! head of tlie
Zdoiiid of Chclluta. Tliis family lias
))roduc('d many writers of celelirity,
and, tlioiif^li it nsmaincd on amicable
tcrm.H witli tlie Turks, it never sul)-
mitted to their authority. The present
liead of tlie fainily rendered great
.services to the French at the period of
th<' (•on(iuest, was es})ecially honoured
by the late Em])eror, and was created
liaih-Asha of Chellata. Having un-
fortunately allowed himself to l)e drawn
into tlu! insnrrec^tion of 1871, he M'as
trii'd and convicted at Constantine, but
sul)se(|uently received a free pardon
from Rbirshal de MacMahon, President
of the Republic, who ])etter than an}'
man living knew the value of his former
services.
Here the traveller, well recommended,
is sure of receiving princely hospitality.
It is a spacious building, and in the
ravine below, on the banks of a con-
siderable stream, is a beautiful garden
of Mowers and f^i-uit trees, in which is
a jiavilion shaded from every ray of
sun, and furnished in the most luxuri-
ous manner. He is one of the few Arabs
who take any interest in horticulture,
or seem to care for the cultivation of
fruit. He has a European gardener in
his service, and there are not many
gardens, even at Algiers, so beautifully
ke])t, and none so plentifully irrigated.
In addition to this, lie has been most
successful in introducing a better .system
of cultivation on his estate, and has
constructed a European olive oil mill,
wbiidi is most renninerative.
(if) kil. Akbou. An important vil-
lage to which a vain attempt was made
to attach the name of Metz. It is ad-
mirably situated on an elevated mound
to tlie north of the high road, with a
charming view looking both up and
down the valley ; the land allotted to
the colonists is of an unusually good
quality.
Close to it is the old Bordj of Ben
Ali Chcrif, purchased by the State be-
foi-e the insurrection.
t)n the opposite side of the river is a
ridge of steep hills close to its right
bank, called Geldaman, tlie western
]>oint of which has l)eeii separated from
tlie rest by tlie river, and now forms an
isolated inamclon in the middle of the
]ilain called the I'llon il'Ahhiiv, which
is seen from a groat distance on liotli
sides. On a .small yilatfoim at tlic west
side of tliis hill, and about 100 ft. above
its base, is a remarkable I'oman mauso-
leum, still in a good state of preserva-
tion. The general shape is that of a
pyramid surmounting a cubical base,
three of tlic .sides being decorated with
false windows, while the fourth con-
tained the door. Above the latter was
an inscription in white marble, no trace
of which now remains. The execution
of the monument is admirable, but the
style is debased. It can be seen from
the train.
[From Akbou the ascent of the Djur-
jura range, by the pass of Chellata, may
be made. See Route 20.]
76 kil. AllarjJian.
81 kil. TazmaJf.
The richest village in the valley ; it
takes its name from tlie Tjordj of the
same name, on the opposite side of the
valley, destroyed in the insurrection of
1871.
89 kil. Beni - Mansour (see p. 1.58).
Here the railway joins the main line
between Akders and Tunis.
ROUTE 14.
ons
jantine to Batna and '.
Biskr
Constantine.
Kil.
Kil.
El-GUERRAH
202
is
Aiii-Melila .
189
31
Les Lacs
171
47
Ain-Yagoiit .
155
56
Fontaine Chaiule .
146
64
El-Maader .
138
70
Fesdis
132
81
Batna (Buflet) .
121
02
El-Biar ....
110
114
Ain-Touta .
88
122
Les Tainaiins
SO
146
El-Kantara . . . .
56
165
Fontaine dos OazoUos .
37
174
El-Outaia
2S
1S4
Ferme-Dufour
IS
202
Biskra . . . .
37 kil. Constantine to El-Guerrah,
Sect. II.
ROUTE 14. MEDRASSEN
20:
sec Route 8. This is the junction of
tlie line from Algiers to Constantino.
13 kil. Aln-Mclila.
31 kil. Lcs Lacs. There are two
salt marshes called Tinsilt and Mxouri,
partly covered with long grass, ami
the haunt of llamingoes and other wild
fowl of all kinds. A few Euro[ieans
engaged in the manfacture of salt live
here, but otherwise the country is only
occui)ied by Arabs, whose Hocks and
herds may bo seen all round.
■17 kil. A'iii-YiKjout. The station
is about I.'jOO metres from the village.
This is the nearest station to the
Medrassen, and mules and even a
carriage can be obtained for that pur-
pose. The best plan for making the
excursion is to stop here by the train
from El-Guerrah, and continue the jour-
ney to IJatna in the evening. The
interval, nearly 8 hours, is amply sulll-
cient to ride to the Medrassen. The
distance is less than 10 kil. Or it
may be done from ]5atna by taking the
morning train and returning in the
<!veiiing. It can be «een very distinctly
from tlie train, a little before it reaches
the ])rise d'caa of Fontaine Chaude.
This remarkable monument, very
similar to thcTombeau de la Chretienne
near Algiers, was situated on the high
road between Theveste and Diana
Veteranorum. The form is that of a
truncated cone, ])laced on a cylindrical
base, oS'SO metres in diameter ; the total
height is 18'30 metres. The lower ])or-
tion, which forms a vertical encircling
zone or ring, is ornamented by GO
engaged columns, of which not one-half
are now perfect. The ui)per part, or
roof, gradually dimini.slies by a series of
sti'ps, caidi I"!? cent, in height, and it2
iu breadth. The columns are stunted,
iiiucii broader at the base than at the
top, the height being about four times
tile lower diameter. They rest on three
stejts, which .serve as base both to the
monument and to the columns. The
ca[iitals are Doric, and above them
is an entablature with a large, liold
cavctto, as if of Egyi>tian origin. Com-
mandant Foy, probably following the
description of Sliaw, calls them of the
Tuscan order ; Colonel Brunon, criticis-
ing the former, remarks that tlie capi-
tals belong rather to the (jcnrc Eijijptiiii
than to the Tuscan order, tlie trutli
being that they are neither one nor the
other, but purely Greek. Greece and
Egypt seem to have inspired the orna-
mentation, while the tumulus suggested
the monument itself, as it did the
Tombeau de la Chretienne, Etruscan
tombs, and the Pyramids of Egyjtt.
The actual conical part has lost its
ape.x, if it ever had one. The exterior
masonry is remarkably line, the stom-s
being of great size, well cut, the joints
not more in some i)laces than the
thickness of a knife, and each stone
joined to its neighbour by a massive
claniji, probably of lead, the .search
for which has greatly contributed to
the destruction of the building. Un-
fortunately the interior masonry was of
a much inferior kind, and an extensive
subsidence of it has caused a disloca-
tion of the outer coating.
Various attemjits liad been made
to penetrate it, but for a long time
without success. Salah Dey endea-
voured to force an entrance liy means
of artillery. General Carbuceia com-
menced to explore it in 1819 ami di-
ce vered the passage leading to tii'
sepulchral chamber ; but owing to the
roof having fallen in ho was unable to
penetrate farther. Commandant Foy
resumed its exploration with no better
success ; Monsieur le Garde du Genie
IJauchetet failed likewise in 1S6G ; but
being again .sent in 1873, with more
ample means, he succeeded in clearing
away the debris and penetrating to
the central chamber, which lie Jisccr-
tained to be 3 13 metres long l>y r40
metres broad. Nothing of any interest
was found inside, but clear evidence
was obtained that it had been opened
at some former period, and that an
attempt had been made to desti-oy tlic
Imildingby means of fire. (Jreat <iuanti-
ties of charcoal and lime (the latter the
calcineil stone of wlii.-h it is built) were
discovered, and tlie fire having eom-
municated to the woodwork which sujt-
ported the roof of the pa.ssiige. llie
superincumbout masonry had fallen in
and obstructed the entraiuv. Tlie
masonry in the jiassage and chamber is
20G
IIOUTI'; 14. CONSTANTINE TO CATNA AND BISKRA Ahj&ria
very iiifi'iior to tliat of tlic Toiiibcau
il(: la Clin'tieiinc, and it dillers from
tlu! latter by the passaf,'e going straight
to the eentre instead of in a spiral
ilircction.
Numerous tumuli, also of a circular
form, were discovered around, together
with tlie traces of a bastioned enclosure,
] Moving the place to have been an im-
iiicnsc necropolis, subsequently used as
a fortress, of which the Medrassen was
sini])ly the principal tomb.
There have been many specuLitions
as to the meaning of tlie word and the
destination of the building, wliich is
not mentioned by any classical author.
There can, however, be little doubt
that tlie word Medrassen, as it is usu-
ally written, or Madghassen, which is
the more correct orthography, is the
jilural of the Berber word Afadghes, the
jiatronymic designation of an ancient
i'araily from which Masinissa was de-
scended. Ibu Khahloun says that
Aladghes was the sou of Beir Ibn Kais ;
he bore the name of El-Abter, and was
the father of the Berbers-Botr. The
name still exists in that of the tribe
inhabiting the vicinity, tlie Haracta-
Maadcr, and in that of a stream, the
Oued Maader.
It is much more probable that this
was the tomb of the Numidian kings
— jjcrhaps of JMasinissa — than that of
Syphax, to whom it has been referred,
whose capital was at Siga, near the
Tafna, and who only occupied Cirta for
a short period. This would lead us to
assign the date of B.C. 150 as about
that of its construction, a supposition
amply supported by the style of the
architecture.
64 kil. El- Maader, see above.
70 kil. Fcsdis, a small village on the
Oued Piatna. The arid plateau, over
which the line has hitherto been carried,
here gives place to a partially wooded
valley, which forms an agi'eeable con-
trast to the plains.
81 kil. Batna (the Arabic word
Bafna means icc have spent the night,
or bivouac).
2548 inhab. ; 3350 ft. above the level
of the sea. Head(piarters of a military
subdivision.
The streets are Avidc, built at right
angles, and line<l with low tiled liouses,
the whole town being enclosed by a
wall. The princijtal building is the
Barracks, which can liold 4000 men.
There is a Church and a Mosque^ and
in the neighboui'hood a curious negro
village of sun-dried bricks.
Batna was occupied shortly after
the expedition of the Due d'Aumale to
Biskra in 1884, to command the pass-
age by which the Nomads of the
Sahara periodically enter the Tell ; in
this sense it is of great importance, but
to the (traveller it is of no interest what-
ever, save as being a convenient halt
between Constantine and Biskra, and
the starting-point of excursions to
Lambessa, Timegad, the Cedar forest,
and the Aures mountains.
ExCtJRSIOXS IN THE Neighboukiiood
OF Batna.
Lambessa, 10 kil. E. of Batna ;
although on the road to Timegad da}'-
liglit will not admit of both being
visited on the same day. The traveller
will find it most convenient to drive
here oh the day of his arrival from
Biskra or Constantine, and to devote
the whole of the following one to
Timegad.
The modern village is close to the
Koman ruins ; the principal building
in it is the prison once occupied by
political otfenders, mostly victims of
the Coiq) d'£tat; but now it is an
ordinary convict establishment for
Europeans and natives.
Lamhccsis was a purely military town,
built in or about a.d. 169, as the head-
quarters of the Third Augustan Legion ;
around it the families of the soldiers,
and the merchants who gained a living
by them, gi'ouped themselves, till it
ultimately became an im}>ortant city of
about 60,000 inhabitants.
The camp itself was a rectangle of
500 metres long by 420 broad, exactly
facing the N. Little of its ramparts
remain, but recent excavations clearly
show its size and fonn. Part of the
prison and its gardens occupy the
S.W. corner of the position. It was
entered by four gates, of which only
those on the N. and E. faces still
Sect. II
ROUTE 14. L.VMUK.SSA
207
reMKiin. Tlie former was the principal
one ; it hail two openings, and was
defended by towers engaged in tlie
wall. From this point two roads pro-
ceeded, one to Tebessa, .ind the other
to Constantine and Setif. It was the
custom of the Romans to place the
tomljs and monuments of the dead on
each side of the high roads ; those just
mentioned have many iu the vicinity
of the [)lace.
Two streets traversed the camp from
N. to S. and from E. to W. ; at tlieir
intersection stands the principal ruin
of tlie place, the Prsetorium.
It is a large rectangular edifice, 28
metres long, 20 metres broad ami 15
liigli. The priiici[ml fa(;ade, to the S.,
liad a splendid peristyle, having massive
columns in front, which corresponded
with Corinthian pilasters engaged in
tlie walls. This extended only to half
tlie height of the wall, leaving a second
story externally, but there is no trace
of this in the inside, which is undivided
in height. The other sides also are de-
coratcil with detached columns, corre-
sponding to the pilasters of the lower
story, the cornice turning round and
forming the entablature. On the N.
side there are three detached columns
on each side of the ]irinciiial entrance,
between which and the smaller doors is
a niche to contain statuaiy. All the
keystones are sculptured, ]>ut not very
artistically. That over the princijial
gate bears a basso-relievo of a standard,
with the inscri)ition " Legio tertia
Augusta." The interior forms a vast
hall ; on each side there is one large
and two smaller doors, and above the
central and larger ones another arched
ojieniiig, used jirobaldy as a window.
The walls are strengthened internally
with pilasters, on which are engnge(l
columns ; still it ajipears doubtful
wluither the building ever was covered
otherwise tiian by a velarium.
The interior has now lieen converted
into a museum, wherein are collected
variDUs objects of antiquity which have
been discovered in the vicinity ; the
best of these, however, have been .sent
to the museum of the Louvre at I'ari.s.
To the S. E. of the rriutoriuni, still
within the military camp, arc the ruins
of Thermse, in which some fine Mo.saics
were found — other Mosaics still e.xist in
situ within the gardens of the prison.
If we now leave the camp and ]>ro-
ceed towards the E., we come to wliat
is called the Arch of Commodus ; it is
tolerably entire, but <if an exceedingly
depraved style of art ; there are two
niches on each side, but without any
jirchivolts. Tlirougii this passed tlie
road leading to Vcnxuiultt, T/iamiKjax,
Miiscula and Thevscstc. On the ojukj-
site side of the road may be traied an
Amphitheatre, nearly circular in shape ;
it must have been large enough to
accommodate 12,000 spcctatoi-s. It is
now almost eiitirelj' destroyed, but
there are people still alive who remem-
ber it in an excellent state of preserva-
tion.
About a kilometre to the S. E. of the
I'lM'torium is the Arch of Septimius
Severus, tlie public Latrinse, the so-
called Palace of the Legate, and still
farther to the S. the Fonim. Near it
is the Temple of .Slsculapius, con-
structed by Marcus Aurelius, of which
only one column is now standing. It
was a remarkably line building, and,
like the amphitheatre, not many yeurs
since its fa(,'ade was entire. W. of the
Forum is the octostyle Temple of
Jupiter, a most interesting buililiiig
which has lately been cleared of </il>ris.
An aqHi'dud led from the spring
called Ain-l!oubcnana to the southern
gate of the camp. The principal
NirrojioUs was to the E. of tiie city,
l)etween the Oued Nechcb and the
Oucd Marcouna, and covered an area
of more than !;'> hectares.
About 3 kil. to the N. of the Vv.y
torium is the Tomb of T. Flavius Maxi-
mus, conimaniler of the Third Legion,
which has been carefully nstored bv
the French, it is a.s(piare, terminatin
in a pyramid, about G metres in heigbi
According to an inscription it \\a
erected to carry out the will of Maxi
inu.s, who left 12,000 sesterces for thai
purpose, by .lulius Seiundtis, a cen-
turion of the Third Legion, of which
Flavius Maximus was prefect. When
the remains of the Koiiian gem-nil were
replaced in the tomb by the French
after its restonition, tlie garrison of
208
ROUTE 14. CONBTANTINE TO BATNA AND I5I.SKRA Algeria
Kadiu iiiarclicd la.sl ami lirud a haliite
in liis lioiioiir.
At ■'> kil. S. of Laiiibcssa arc the
ruins of Markouna tlic ancient Fere-
finii/ti. Tiiis was jirobably a suburb
ol' tiie former city. There still exist
two triumphal arches, on one of which
occurs the name Verecunda.
Al)(iut 3 kil. beyond Markouna, the
student of pre -historic remains will
lind a very remarkable megalithic
monument, called by the natives Mza-
Scdira, tomb of Sedira. It is a tri-
lithon, 3 metres high, the uprights of
which rest on a base of two courses of
rough stones. It appears to have been
surrounded by a parallelogram of stones
arranged in parallel lines.
The excursion to Timegad will
occupy a whole day. The distance from
IJatna is 36 kil. and the road excellent
lor a great ]iart of the way and quite
practicable throughout for a light car-
riage ; the drive there and back will
occupy 10 liours, so that but a short
time will remain for an inspection of the
ruins. A small house has lately been
built by the officials charged with ex-
cavating the ruins, but it is rarely
open ; attached to it is another for the
use of the Arab guardian, in which a
traveller, who is not very pai'ticular,
may pass the night, or he may sleep at
the Bordj of the Oued Taga, but ordi-
narily the entire excursion should be
made in a single day.
These ruins are certainly the most
remarkable in the colony ; they have
lately been entirely excavated, and are
hardly less interesting than Pompeii.
They were visited by the author in
1875, and described in his "Footsteps
of Bruce." Shortly after an excellent
report on them was written bj' Professor
Masqueray ; in 1SS0-S3, they were
carefully examined and excavated by
the Government engineers, under the
supervision of M. Duthoit, architect-
in- chief of historical monuments in
Algeria, whose admirable plans of
Timegad and Lambessa have been pub-
lished in the proceedings of the Archreo-
logical Society of Coustantiue for 1883-
84 ; and lastly, they were described and
illustrated by Mr. Alexander Graham,
in an article on tlic Remains of the
Roman Occupation of North Africa,
])ublished in the " Transactions of the
lioyal Institute of British Architects,"
vol. i. , New Series, 1885.
Thannigas was situated at the inter-
section of six Roman roads ; two went
through Lamba'sis, in the direction of
Setif; a third to Diana Yeteranoram
[Zcma) ; two more to Theveste by Mas-
cula {Khcnchla), and a sixth northwards
to Constantine. It appears to liave
been of as great importance as Lam-
bessa, to judge by the size of its public
buildings, especially the theatre, and
the area covered by its remains, while
its architecture is undoubtedly older
and purer. There is nothing at Lam-
bessa to equal the triumphal arch here.
It is mentioned by Ptolemy under
the name of Thamutuda ; in the Itiner-
ary of Antoninus as Tamugada, and it
occurs in various inscriptions as Tha-
mugas. It is elsewhere described as
Colonia Marciana Trajana Thamugas,
and Colonia Ulpia Tharniajas ; and on
an inscription, still in perfect preserva-
tion near the Forum, there is an allu-
sion to the thirtieth Legion Ulpia, and
a celebration of the victories of Trajan
over the Parthians. From this il. Leon
Renier concludes that the Emperor,
wishing to recompense the veterans of
the 30th legion, Ulpici Vidrix, for their
participation in the war against the
Parthians, established them at Time-
gad, not only as being a vast and fertile
country, but a position of great military
importance, from which they might be
able to suppress the turbulence of the
neighbouring mountaineers.
The inscription above mentioned ex-
ists in duplicate on two fine pedestals
of white marble, of octagonal shape, the
height being 1^ metre, and the ^ndth
of the faces from 50 to 30 centimetres.
VICTORIAE
PARTHICAE
AATt. SACR.
EX • TESTAMENTO
M. ANNI • M. F. QVR.
MAKTIAXIS ■ MIL.
Sect. II
ROUTE 14. TIMEGAD
2(lft
ALAE.
EIVSDEM
AVG. DVl'LC
PANN. DEC. AL
> |LEG I11| • AVG
ET. XXX. VLPLAE Vicluc
MISSI. • HOXE.STA
MISSIONE • AB • IMP .
TRAIANO • OPTIMO
AVG. GEU UAC. PAIlTl
SING. HS. VIII. XX. I'll. .A^J
annmI . M. i.iii. I'uoTv.s
niLAltV.S • EKOS
adiectis • A. si:, us. hi.
PONENIJ. CVR/VEIl
IDEM Q. nEDICATEIl
1). D.
Thanniga.s i.s mentioncil in the Act.s
of Saint Mamniarius and in tlie Theo-
(losiaii Code. It sulj.sL'(|ucntly became
tlie great focus of religious agitation
during the 4th century. In 398 its
bisliop, Optatus, sided with tlie Count
Gildon in hi.s revolt against Honoriu.s,
and wa.s regarded as the recogni.sed
liead of the Donatists. St. Augustine,
who often alluded to him, .says tliat
during ten years Africa trembled under
his yoke. Amongst other bishops of
Thamugas are Novatus, who assisted
at the Council of Carthage in 25o ;
Sextus, who died in 320 ; Faiistinus,
wlio was present at the conference of
Carthage in 411 ; and Secundus, who
was exiled by lluneric in 4S4.
When Solomon arrived for the first
time in the Aures, in 535, he found the
city ruined. It had been destroyed by
the inhabitants of the Aur6s mountains
so as not to become a source of danger
to them .should the Byzantines take it.
He restore(l the citadel at least, in the
same style as the other fortresses
throughout the countiy. The proof
of tills is evident ; but the other public
buildings bear no trace of a restoration
posterior to their original construction.
At the time of the Arab invasion it
was a Christian city, as in Glti, under
the governiiient of (iregory, a Christian
church was built, the ruins of wiiich
still exist. It is a scpiare building,
witli a circular ajiso at the east end,
divided into a nave and two aisles by
[Alffcria.]
colunuLs, three on each side, of rosu
coloured marble, the centre one ou
each side only being free ; the others
are engaged in the walls, right and left
of the apse and of tlie entrance. On
the lintel of the door was insciibed on
white marble : —
111 tctiiiMiribu.s Ci>n.stantini IiiiiKTatori.s
Fl. (jrejjorio Patricio Joaiiin.-.s <lux
Je Tigisi offtTct doiiiuiii Uci + Ariiieiius.
The ruins occupy a large undulating
plain, cut into two portions liy a water-
course, which was eiilierentiiely covered
over, so as to admit of easy communi-
cation, or onlj- embanked with masonry,
and bridged at intervals. This runs S.
and N. On the W. .side are extensive
ruins of buildings ; liut the only one
iif importance is the small Ciiristian
rliurch just dcs( ribed.
The princiiial buildings are situated
on the right or E. bank of the ravine ;
they consist of a Byzantine fortress,
theatre, forum, triumphal arch, a huge
temple, public latriiuc, and innumer-
able other buildings, too much ruined
to admit of absolute identification.
The first of these was originally of
Roman construction ; the regular and
careful masonry of that people can be
recognised in some few places ; a pos-
terior restoration by the Byzantines
can also be easily identified, as they
invarialdy employed the cut stones of
the former buildings, without mmh
regard to perfect adaptation, using also
tombstones and any other material that
came most easily to hand. The third
restoration is of a very inferior char-
acter, the stones being small, irregular,
and very loosely put together.
The general jilan of the cnceiiUe and
a great part of the walls are still entire.
It is a large (pia<lrangle, about 110
metres by 90, Hanked on eiieli side by
salient towers, 3 in number. Tiiat on
the eastern .side is not in the niiddl.',
antl is much more salient fhiin those at
the angles. In the part of this town
facing tlic iiit"'rior may be .seen lli-
remains of a circulnr lirick tlome, tin
crown of which has dis.ipp<'are«l, and
in its place there is a nule attempt to
comjilete it by means of loosely pih d
stones. Some remains of columns are
210
IIOUTK 14. C(JNSTAXTINF, TO UATNA AND IUSKHA
A hjeria
s(!cii ill tlio interior court belonging to
a small Imililiiig, jicrliaps a church.
The Theatre was cut in the abrupt
northern Hank of a hill, the; opposite
side of which gradually slo[ie(l towards
the. S. This nioriunient was of con-
siderable dimensions, and intended for
the accommodation of a considerable
jiopulation. The building was executed
in a substantial manner, the walls being
gtaierally of solid rubble masonry, faced
with cut stone of considerable dimen-
sions.
In the interior, where the masonry
may have been covered with cement or
other materials, the angles were made
sharp by brickwork. Although the
columns actually found on the sjjot arc
all in stone of an inferior description,
they were numerous. On the stage
may be counted the remains of 14.
The Forum has lately been un-
earthed. The N. facade had a colon-
nade in its entire length, from which
the inhabitants must have enjoyed one
of the most charming views it was
possible to imagine. " In the middle
of it was a gateway of a monumental
character, having an order larger than
that of the colonnade. A flight of 10
steps within this gateway formed the
]n-incipal apin-oach to the Forum, which
measures 49-30 metres by 44'30 metres,
entirely paved, and surrounded by a
broad colonnade of the Corinthian order,
raised 2 steps above the general area.
On the E. side was the Basilica, and
on the S. the Theatre, to which it had
probably access " (Graham).
Great numbers of inscriptions and
pedestals lie scattered about in this
neighbourhood. One, still very per-
fect, is in a character resembling the
Gothic. It runs as follows : —
Vocontio
P. FI. Pudenti Pomponiano
C(larissimo) \(iro) ei'ga civeis
ratriaiiunu' pnilixe cultnri exercitus
Militarilius ett'ecto luultifariani
l(H|Ui'iiiu.s littei-as ainiilianti Attieaiis
facuuiliam ad acqiianti Romano
iiitori
ordo incola patrono oris iiberis
et fluentis uosti'(i) alteri fonti.
Towards the N.W. of the town,
nearly in the axis of the colonnade of
the l'"orum, ivonx which, at all events,
it formed a striking view, exists a Tri-
umphal Arch, one of the most import-
ant monuments of the kind in Algeria.
It consists of three o[)enings, the cen-
tral one 3 '26 metres wide, and the side
ones 2 "19 metres ; above the latter are
square niches for statues. The monu-
ment is of the Corinthian order ; each
front is decorated by four fluted columns
5 -96 metres high, occu])ying the angles
and the spaces between the arches.
To each column corresponds a pilaster,
both raised on a common pedestal.
The entablature couTiects all the
columns and pilasters together, and was
itself surmounted by an attic, with an
entablature, a ]>ortion of the architrave
of which now alone remains. Over
the two lateral arches and the square
niches, and supported by the two
columns, are two curved peiliments,
the cornices of which (as also the main
cornice profile round) are set back over
the columns, an arrangement not un-
frequent in the colonies of the empire.
The attic, intended no doubt to receive
the dedicatory inscription, and perhaps
also to support sculpture, appears to
have extended over the whole top of
the building. None of the original
inscription remains in place, but frag-
ments have been found below and near
the Forum, from which il. Leon Reuier
restores it as follows :—
Imperator Caesar divi
Nervae filitis Nervae Trajanws
Auijmtus Germanicus Pontifex vuixinnis
Imperator III. ti-ibuiiicia Potestate llll.
consul III. VaUr patriae colonuim
JliTareianam Tmjanam T/ia-
mugoAi per legionem tertiam Angustam
fecit . . . imatiin . . . Gallus legaJiw
Augwstrpro praetore
Dedicavit.
The two fagades are identical in fea-
ture, and each is in itself perfectly
symmetrical, except that the capitals
of the two middle columns on the
southern facade, instead of having the
angle of the abacus supported by vol-
utes, have eagles in their place. The
square niches have had each their
separate entablature, and columns sup-
ported by sculptured brackets ; all the
arches have archivoltes.
The mass of the monument is of sand-
stone, but the columns, capitals and
Sect. II
ROUTE 14. AURfiS MOUNTAINS
211
bases of the pilasters, brackets and
entablature, are entirely of wliite marble,
as was also the crowning of the attic ;
the sides of the attics were certainly
covered by slabs, most probably of the
same material.
JI. Masqueray found amongst the
ruins of the IJyzantine Citadel, an in-
scription from which he concludes that
this building was called the arch of
the Gods, AKCVM PANTHEVM, but
tiiis, according to Mr. (!rahani, does
not adapt itself to the shape of the
attic. It was ])robably surrounded
with statues and rlcdicatory pedestals,
fiiining a group of which any city
niight justly have been jiroud.
Tlie next important bulMing lias been
sup])()sed to be a Temple to Jupiter
Capitolinus. The ruins s1k)w that it
must have been a very sjilendid edifice.
A large court probably existed before
tlu^ entrance, as the vestiges of a colon-
nade are still visible jiarallel to the
) ii incipal fafade. This was most power-
fully constructed ; a transverse wall,
which may have corresponded to the
entrance of the cella, measures nearly
2 metres in thickness, tlie stones vary-
ing from 1 to \\ metre in length, antl
from 6.5 centimetres to a metre in
breadth, and 50 centimetres in height.
An attic base in blue limestone lying
on the spot, measures 1*97 metre in
breadth at its plinth. The most mas-
sive parts were built according to the
Roman system of rubble, cased in cut
stone masonry, composed of blocks of
great size. The cohuiins wen' lluted,
of the Corinthian order, their diameter
is 1'30 metre. The capitals were in
two stones on account of their great
size.
An inscription was hero found on
four stones, surrounded by a moulding,
of which the following is a copy : —
Pio iiiaf;niflc<>ntia siiculi iXominnrum nostra-
rum Valeiitiniaiii ct ValcntiH scmiicr Anpis-
torum et fierj^tnurum, iinrticus cn|>itolii, seriir
vutustatis absmiiptiis et usque a<l iiiia funda-
iiiciita conlapsus, novo oiicrc ptTfectas exor-
natasque dedicavit I'liMilius C'aL'ii)iiiii.s CaiTi'iifi
AlhinuH, Vir elanssiiniis, coiisularis, ciiraiiti-
bus Aelio Juliauo, iteruui rci j)ul>lica;<"Hnif()iy,
Flauio Aquiliuo, {laminc \wr\trhi<i Autoiiiii
Petroni.ano fUtminr yicrytetuo Antonio lanuinr-
iano flumine yieriwtuo.
The traveller should not miss a visit
to the Cedar Forest situated in Ljebel
Tit;i(jt(rt, the mountain to the N.W. of
Batna.
In fine weather a carriage can drive
about 2i kil. beyond tlie Garde
Forestiir's hou.se, which is at 15 kil.
from IJatna, but the excursion is far
better made on horscbafk ; it will
occujiy a full day. It is well for the
traveller to know that after cro.ssing the
bridge over the stream lie should keep'
to the right : an ascent of J of tin liour
will bring him to one of the best views,
C'ul dc Jiinijat.
The trees are not so fine as those
of Teniet, and they liave been very
injudiciously cut down during the la.st
20 years, but tlie forest is very exten-
sive, the views magnificent, and one
cannot help being gratified to find,
what is wanting at iVniet, a consider-
aiile growth of young trees witli whith
the spaces left vai-ant by the old ones
are covered. On the upper }>arts of the
mountains and on their .southern slopes
there are many fine oak.s, juniper.s and
l)iiies. The cedars do not fiourish ex-
posed to the sirocco.
From llatna a light waggonette nms
to Ain-Khenchla, doing the journey
in 12 hours. There is also a hor.se road
(o Setif; the total distance is al>out
120 kil., and there are two Kaid.s' liouses
and one or two farms on the way, at
which a traveller can sleep.
[E.icu7'sion in (he Aur^s Mountains.
The foregoing are excursions which
every tourist can do with ease during
the time lie is likely to be detained at
I'atna, but for the more enterprising
traveller, who is prejiared to travel on
mules, and to spend a week or two in
tents or in such accommodation as lie
may find available, and who does luit
shiiiik from an absence of every kind
of European comfort and the jireseiii'c
of a very considerable amount of native
discomfort in the shajie of lleas, the
author would strongly advi.so a tour in
the Aures Mountains. Thi.s may 1k'
made in almost any direction, a.s the
country is Ihiekly populated ami vil-
lages are numerous. Mules will cost
from 4 to 5 f. ].tr diem, and no doubt
212
ROUTK 14. CONSTANTINE TO BATNA AND niSKUA Ahjerid
a f,'iiiile can be procureil tlirouj^h the
ai<l of tlio authorities at liatna, with-
out whose concurrence the journey
slioiild not be att(niipto(l.
Tiic j,'f,o;,'raphii;al term Aur&s, corre-
sponilin;^ to the Aiirlon of Ptolemy
and tlie Mons Aurasms of other
f^'eofjraphers, comprises at the present
(lay tliat mass of mountains stretcliing
between tlie route from Batna to l>iskra
on tlie AV. and the Oiicd el -Arab on
the E. It does not extend farther N.
than Batna or as far S. as Biskra. Its
(greatest length from E. to W. is 120
kil., and from N. to S. 70 kil, the
whole area being about 800 square
kilometres.
Its inhabitants, the Chawia, are
a l)ranch of that great Berber race
which has occupied the N. of Africa
tVora Egyi>t to the Atlantic from pre-
historic times. The Kabyles form
ii Mother liranch ; both speak slightly
di lie rent dialects of the same language,
but the former shut up in their
mountain fastnesses, hardly yet known
to the world beyond, have i-emained
far less mixed w'ith foreign elements
than the latter, at least since the time
of the Arab conquest.
The debris of the Roman, Byzantine
and Vandal colonies no doubt found
refuge here when driven from the sur-
rounding plains by one set of conquerors
after another, or under the influence of
religious persecution, and as a conse-
quence, both the features, language, and
customs of the people bear unmistak-
able testimony to their classic origin.
All the old ^vTiters who have visited
the country describe in glowing terms
the beauty of its women. Morgan,
who wrote in 1728, and whose in-
teresting "History of Algeria" is too
little studied, remarks, "What num-
bers have I seen, particularly females,
who, for well - featured countenances,
fair curling locks and wholesome ruddy
looks, might not vie with or even be
envied by the proudest European
dames." Shaw and Bruce bear testi-
mony to the same fact, and the writer
can honestly assert his conviction that
in no country is the average of female
beauty higher than in the Aures
mountains. It is true that hard
labour from earliest youth soon causes
this to fade, but nothing can mar tlie
classical regularity of features wliicli
mark their European rather than their
African origin.
Their language is full of Latin words,
and in their daily life they retain
customs undoubtedly derived from
their Christian ancestry. They observe
the 25tli of December as a feast, under
the name of Moolvl (the birth), and
keep three days' festival both at spring-
time and harvest. They use the solar
instead of the Mohammedan lunar
year, and the names of the months
are the same as our own. They are
emphatically shepherds as well as agri-
culturists, having few or no cattle, but
immense flocks of sheep and goats.
The great diff'erence between them and
the Araljs in this respect is that the
latter are nomades, while the former
rarely ever leave their native valleys.
The word Zenati is also used as a
synonym for Chawi.
These remarks must be taken to apply
principally to the C'Imivi of the Aures ;
the race itself has a far wider geographi-
cal distribution, but beyond these in-
accessible mountains it has got more or
less mixed with other elements.
The following was the author's route
but, as before remarked, it may be
varied to almost any extent, and much
longer stages can be made —
1st day. Batna to El-Arbiia 8 hours.
2d ,, ,, to El-Manaa 5 ,,
3d ,, to Mines of Taghit 4 ,,
4th ,, to El-Bali . . . 4 „
5th ,, to Oued Taga . . 4 ,,
6th ,, toTimegad. . . 3 ,,
7tli ,, to 0mm el-Ashera 3 ,,
8th ,, to El-Wadhaha . 2^ „
9th ,, to Boil Hammama 6^ ,,
(including ascent of Chellia).
10th ,, Ain-Meimoun . . 5J ,,
11th ,, Ain-Khenchla . . 5 ,,
Space will not admit of a detailed
descrii)tion of this interesting expedi-
tion ; the author unwillingly limits
himself to a very few remarks regarding
each stage.
El-Arbda. — Probably the most pictur-
esque and characteristic Chawi village
Sect. II
ROUTE 14. KI.-KANTAKA
2K{
in the Aure.s. Situated liigli iii>oii Hit-
face of a hill, the Ijasc of whicli is
washed by a V»eautiful stream, and the
fiest of which is cut and serrated in
tlie most fantastic manner.
El Manaa. — The principal residence
of the Kaid of the Auri-s, Si Abbas,
renowned for his liospitality, and who
always keeps a comfortable guest cham-
ber ready for the use of travellers.
The town is beautifully situated at
the conllueiice of the Diced Ahdi and
the Oaed Bou Zaina.
Mines of Tacjhit. — Here are mercury
liiiues, which belonf,'ed to the late
.Mr. Wellington Yallance.
El-Bali. — A villageonthe left bank of
the Oucd Alidi, just under Dj. Mahmcl,
tlie second liighest peak in Algeria.
Oiicd Taga. — Here is a comfortable
bordj, formerly belonging to Si Abbas,
Kaid of the Aurcs, now the property
of the State, where tlie traveller will
certainly be able to lodge. I'atna may
be reached in four hours from this point.
Omvi cl-Ashcra. — A small village
near the plain of Firis, near which,
on Djchel JDiaronba and Djclcl Bou
Driecen, are great numbers of highly
curious megalithic remains, consisting
not only of the ordinary type of Dol-
men, but of circular tombs of a much
more unusual construction.
Timegad, see p. 208.
El- IFii'l/iaha. — This is merely a con-
venient halting-place jjrior to the a.sccnt
of Chellia ; there is no village or hab-
itations, and if the traveller is unpro-
vided with a tent ; he must select some
other place in which to jiass the night.
The ascent of Cliellia is ipiite easy,
;uid can be made from this point in 'JA
hours ; the traveller can ride to within
a few hundred yards of the toji. Chi-Uia
is the highest point in Algeria, 7011
ft. above the .sea, 2:5 ft. higher than
]).]'. Mahmcl, and (iO higher tlian D.jur-
djura. The view from the sunnnit is
one of e.Kceediiiggraridcur. Tiie descent
may be made by the opposite side of
the mountain, and the night's lialt at
Jjou JJaiiniKiina, a small village in
tlie edge of tlie plain of Melagou.
A'tnMiivionii is a lovely spot in an
extensive cedar forest. There are both
civil and military establi.shment.s for
sawing timber, and the traveller will
have no dilliculty in obtaining rough
shelter for the night.
Ain-Khcnrhla, the MnacKhi of the
Romans, a large and thriving village,
where the traveller will again find liiiii-
self in a settled ]>ait of the country ; it
possesses a good inn, and there is c« ni-
munication by diligence with Aiii-
]5eida and Batna.']
92 kil. El-Biar.
114 kil. A'm-Toulo.
122 kil. Lcs Tamarins.
The line now passes into the valley
of the Oual Fcdala. On the left is
iJjcbd Mcllili, rising above the lower
hills ; on the right a grand ma.ss of
limestone, with upheaved strata, dijijiing
to the S. On the isthmus between the
Oucd Ksour — which presentlv .j<'ins the
Oucd Fedala, right — aii<l " the O.
Fedala are the ruins of a Roman town,
" Ad duo Fhimiii.i."
146 kil. £1-Eantara. The station
is 800 metres from the remarkable gorge
in Djcbel Metlili, in which the hotel is
situated. Owing to a tunnel the railway
traveller misses the hrst striking view
of the oasis beyond. If he is not pre.ssetl
for time it is well worth jassing a day
in this beautiful spot, where alpine
.scenery and trojiical veget^ition are met
with together in such a wonderful
coiidiinution.
El-Kantara was the Calccus IlcreuUs
of the Romans ; and numerous frag-
ments of Roman work ami inscriptions
have been found. Among others the
following, showing that a part of tb
famous Third Augustan legion w.i
(juartered here : —
MERfN'KIO
KT lIKltlVI.I
irr M.MITI
hACllAVlT
IVl.IVS
KVr\»
I.F.I). III. AVn.
1 Fur fiiller iiifonimtinn n-piirtliiiK the Aiin^s
Mountaius, sec " Foot«tci>« of llnice," p. 01.
214
ROUTK 14. CONSTANTINE TO BATNA AND BISKRA Algeria
Till! Ivniii.iii liiid^^o is ;it llio N. eii-
fivuicu of tlic (lolilo. It consists of one
iiiassivo scMiiicinuiiar arcli resting uj)oii
the rock at citiier side. It was "re-
stored" in 1862, and all appearance
of antiquity removed. The ancient
lirid,i;e is not now used, tiie route
following the left ]»ank of the stream,
instead ol' the right one adoiitcd by the
Komans.
The commencement of the gorge is
not more tlian 200 metres beyond the
hotel. It is a rent in the limestone
range, just 40 metres wide at its nar-
rowest i)art, and about 300 metres long.
The cliffs that bound it are broken
into pinnacles, and the river roars be-
\o\\' in a deep bed over rounded boulders.
1 1 widens at its S. end ; and as the
Iraveller passes out of it a wonderful
view is displayed before him. The
liver emerging from its narrow bed,
widens into a goodly stream, and right
and left of it is a forest of 15,000
date-palms (of which this is the N.
limit), interspersed with oranges, mul-
berries, apricots and apples. Quaint
Arab houses emerge from the green sea
of foliage, and beyond, over a valley
that in sjiring is green with corn, are
some castellated red cliffs, backed by a
limestone range.
Tliere are three villages in the oasis ;
Dahraouia on the right bank, Khekar
and Kbiiur-el-Abbas on the left. They
are well built and clean. The houses are
usually of one story, with a terrace,
on which a tent is often pitched. The
woodwork of the doors and roofs is of
palm wood. The square towers so fre-
((uent in the oasis are for watchers, to
guard the fruit when ripe. The inhab-
itants seem a kindly, unsophisticated
race, mostly dark, but some are fair
and blue-eyed. They are very indus-
trious. The men work in the gardens,
till the fields, or follow a trade. The
women weave. They are unveiled, and
may be seen washing clothes at the
fountain, as unrestrained as if they
w'ere in France or Enfcland.
The Djebel ]\letlili dips to the S. Its
limestone cliffs are liighly charged with
([uartz. Some of the beds on its S.
face are full of fossil shells, as are also
the beds of black marl ou the right
liank of the stream to the N. Hands
of gypsum are fref[uent, especially in
the range S. of the Djebel Metlili,
which, unlike it, dips to the N. .
There are numerous Roman remains,
but none of great consetiuence, near El-
Kantara, one of these, at 7 kil. distanc(;,
is called by the natives Kherbel-el-
Hordj, the ancient Burgum Specula-
torium, built in the reign of Caracalla
(217 to 221), by order of Marcus Valerius
Seiiecio, Imperial Legate in Numidia,
and under the direction of a 2)i'efect of
the III. Legion, for the protection of
the S2Kculatores or outposts of that
Legion. An inscription recording this
fact was discovered by AI. Renier in
1851.
After about 10 kil. the ranges N.
and S. approach one another, turning
abru})tly towards the stream. This is
the S. end of the plain of El-Kantara.
The S. range terminates in a fine clitf,
about 30 metres high, crowned by a
disused sema[)hore. To the N. is a
spur of conglomerate.
165 kil. Fontaine dcs Gazelles, a
solitary farm close imder a range of
low sandhills. A copious warm spring,
slightly saline, bursts out of the sand
with a temperature of 76° Fahr. at its
origin. Its overflow makes a luxuriant
marsh, which has formed a small oasis.
This is the ancient Aquo^s Ilcrculis.
About 2 kil. to the E. is a small hot
lake, very pleasant for a bath. Near
the spring may be seen a bed of enor-
mous subfossil oystei'S, some of which
are 18 in. in length. These have been
drifted here from the bed Avhich lies
under the range of hills to the E.
174 kil. El-Oufttia. The Arab vil-
lage is on a low hill to the S., built
probably on a Roman site, and of
Roman materials. The mud walls rest
in places on Roman blocks.
[The Montagne de Scl can be con-
veniently visited from here. An Arab
with a mule costs 4 f. It takes about
5 hr. to reach the base of the mountain.
A few hundred yards from the left bank
of the stream are some insignificant
Roman ruins. A fewrectaugular plinths,
with the bases of columns hewn out of
Sect. II
ROUTE 14. niSKUA
2Ii
the same block, remain in position.
The mountain, wliicli is one of the live
mentioned liy lIciiHlotns, is a mass of
bluish-giey rock salt, at the S. W. end
of a limestone range, dipping, like the
last, N. That it lias been forced up
from below is evident •when any point
is reached sufficiently high to see the
way in which masses of sand have been
torn up out of the plain, and elevated
upon pinnacles and mamclons of salt.
The strata are a good deal contorted
at the point where the eruption took
place, and beyond it they have the
appearance of having been forced for-
wards and upwards, and pile<l together
in confusion. The Arabs have usetl
the salt for ages ; but it is not quarried
regularly.]
The line now strikes S.E. across the
plain. To the N. is the line valley of
tiie Aures, down which the Oued Abdi
flows into the Oued Kantara. The
united streams are called the Oued
Uiskra.
Iieyond this cultivation is scanty,
and sand predominates. There are
usually a good many Arab encamp-
ments. . Its S. boundary, the Djebel
bou-Ghazal, is a limestone range of no
great height. In the foreground arc
bare hills of sand, then a second lime-
stone range, lower than the first ; and
beyond, the vast plain, stretching with
no visible elevation to the horizon, and
dotted with dark spots, the largest of
which is the oasis of Biskra, 8 kil.
distant.
202 kil. Biskra, is situated lat. 34°
51', at a height of 360 ft. above the
sea-level. The name docs not denote a
single town, but a union of live villages
scatterecl through the oasis, which is
a striji of cultivated ground on the
right bank of the stream, about 3 m.
in length, and from a J m. to | m. in
breadth. The two oiuses of Gaihlccha
and Filiah, opposite to Biskra, on the
left bank, are also considered to belong
to it. These villages are all of the ordin-
ary Arab type, houses built of hardeneil
mud, with doors and roof of palm wood.
Among the ruins of what the French
term " Le vieux Biskra," wlu-re, before
the new fort was built, they fortified
the Kasba of tlie ffderation existing
before tlieir arrival, may be seen a few
blocks of Roman work, and one or
two Roman columns. Tliis is all that
remains of the outiMjst of Ad I'lmiiunn.
The French settlement is confined
to the N. end of the oasi.s, close to the
spot where the canal for irrigation,
termed " La I'rise d'Eau," is diverted
from the river.
The Fort St. Germain, so called
from an officer who was killed at
Seriana during the insurrection of the
Zaatcha in 1849, is an extensive work,
capable of resisting any attack likely
to be made against it by Arabs, and
of slieltering the civil population, if
necessary. It contains barracks, an
hospital, and all the other buildings
necessary for the use of the garrison,
which, however, is not now a large one.
In front of the princijial entrance is
the Jan/in Public, an agi'eeable and
shady walk, with tlie Church in the
centre. The Mnrkil-jdncc is worth a
visit for the curious nature of tlie wares
exposed for sale, and tlie jtieturesque-
ness of the vendors and buyers.
The climate of liiskra is delightful
during 6 months in the year. Nowhere
in Algeria can one find a more genial
teiniierature, a clearer sky, or more
beautiful vegetation ; but in summer
the thermometer freipiently stands at
110^ Fahr. in the shade, ami from SO'
to 90° at night. The mean temj>craturc
of the year, on an average of 10 years,
is 73°, the maximum and minimum
124° and 36° during the same time. It
is practically rainless, the only draw-
bac'k is the prevalence of high winds.
An experimental (iovernment gartlen
was created at IJiskra, but owing to
the aljsence of good management, and
from insuflicieiicy of funds, it did not
]>rove a success, and Inus now been
abandoned. This is hanlly to In;
regretted, as tlie intelligent enteri)ri.se
of a jirivate individual has successfully
carried out what the rllortsof the State
had failed to .iccomiilish. M. Liiidon,
a Fren< h gentleman of fortune an<l
education, after having il. voted .several
years to foreign travel, has fixed his
winter residence at lli.skra, whei-e lie
has created a charming retreat, and
2I()
IKMITK II. CONSTANTINK TO liATNA AND lU.SKIlA
A lijeria
(IrvotoH liiiiisrir to tin; ciiltiviitioii of
lii.s iiiopcity, ill wliicli liu lias .succuss-
tiilly accliiiiati.scd many precious tropi-
cal Cniit trees ami other plants. These
gardens can be visited on presentation
of an address card.
The oasis of Biskra contains 100,000
date palms, besides several thousand
fruit trees of other sorts. The jjalms
are not enclosed within high walls, as
at El-Aghouat and El-Kantara, but are
planted in detached groups, or as
hedges to the extensive lields of barley
and luxuriant gardens of vegetables.
The trees are not quite so large as those
of El-Aghouat, but the way in which
they are planted renders them far more
j)icturesque, and delightful walks or
lides may be taken in all directions
through and round the oasis.
The supply of water from the Oued
Jjiskra is very copious throughout
winter and early spring, nor does it
fail entirely even in summer, except
in very dry seasons. It has been sup-
l)lemented by the energy of the French,
who have caused Artesian wells to be
dug here and in some of the neigh-
bouring oases, so that the most may be
made of the ground that is capable of
bearing corn.
We would advise travellers to be in
no hurry to quit Biskra, as there is a
great deal to see in the neighbour-
hood.
About 6 kil. N.W., under the Djebel
bou-Ghazal, is the Fontaine Chaude
— Ar. Hammam Salahin — i.e. " Bath
of the Saints." It bursts out with
great violence and volume, giving,
it is said, 40 litres per second. Its
temperature at its source is 112° Fahr.
Baths have been erected round it,
much frequented by French and natives.
One is specially reserved for officers, but
permission to bathe in it, and the
key, can easily be obtained. All,
however, are very bad. The surplus
water is lu'st collected in a reservoir
outside, where poor Arabs bathe,
and thence flows down the hill into a
marsh, turning 2 or 3 Arab mills as
it goes. In the stream, close to the
marsh, are quantities of small fish,
Ci/j>riiwdo)i cahtritanus, identical with
those found in the hot springs of the
oasis of .lu])it(;i- AmiiKJii in l"]gypt.
The temperature of the water in which
they live is about 96" Fahr. It is pro-
posed to convey the water of this spring
to Ijiskra, ami to form a bathing estab-
lishment close to the railway station.
There are 2 small lakes of warm water
near the Fontaine, and just behind it is
a low hill of a formation that apjiears to
be volcanic. At 5 kil. to the .S.E. is a
remarkable mcrjulilhic owcinte, with
salient portions in the form of redans,
and several rude staircases liave been
cut in the rocky slope. Two or three
larger stones on the summit appear to
have formed a sort of monument. The
summit of the mound is too small to
have contained a garrison ; most prob-
ably it was a temple or sacred place of
some kind.
Biskra is the capital of the Zihan,
(plural of Zah), whose prosperous vil-
lages, buried in groves of palm and
fruit trees, and surrounded by barley
fields, are dotted over the vast plain
extending from the foot of the Aures
to the Chott Mclghiyh.
Excursions may be made in various
directions to the diff"erent oases, one of
which at least should be visiteil. We
proceed to describe that of Sidi Okba,
20 kil. S.E. The road is practicable
for a light carriage, and the drive
occupies 2 hrs. Crossing the Oued
Biskra, here a stony tract, a (juarter of
a mile broad, with a deep stream flow-
ing in the centre, the small oasis of
Filiah is passed on the right, and the
plain, here sparingly cultivated, is
entered. In the distance is seen the
long low line of the palms in the oasis
of Sidi Okba. To the left are fine
views of the Aures, with the oases
lying at the feet of their spurs. These
occur in the following order from
Biskra :—Chetma, 8 kil.; Droh, 13
kil. ; Sidi-Khelil, 14 kil. ; Seriana, 17
kil. ; Carta, 21 kil. After a drive of
2 hrs. the village of Siili Okba is
reached, composed, like all others, of
houses of one stor}', built of dried mud.
The market-place and the small shops
are extremely quaint and curious.
But the chief interest of the place is
centred in tlie mosque, probably the
most ancient Mohammedan building in
SecK II
ROUTE 15. BISKRA TO TL(;riCKT
til
Africa. It is square, eacli side about
35 int'tres lon<,', with a tlat roof sup-
portcd on a miinlier of rude columns,
one of which, with a spiral ornament
round it, may possibly have been
brought from a Roman building. The
rest are extremely rude imitations, in
clay, of stone ])illars. At the N.W.
corner is the shrine cf Sidi Okba, in a
sort of chantry screened olf from the
mosque. It is a tomb of the ordinary
Marabout type, hung round with silk,
ostrich eggs and other pieces of tawdry
furniture, among which a large gilt
mirror frame is conspicuous. On the
S. side of the mosque is the ))uli)it.
The minaret should be ascended for
the sake of the view, which alone
repays the trouble of the journey.
Tiiere is an Arab legeml that this
minaret will tremble visibly when Sidi
(Jkl)a is invoked according to a pre-
scribed form of words. There is a
<'arvcd wooden door on the E. side of
the mosque of admirable workmanship,
and on one of the ])illars a rude inscrip-
tion in early Cufic characters, ])erliaps
the oldest Arabic inscription in the
world, and very grand in its simplicity
— This is the tomb of Okha, son of
Nofa. M((y God hare ninry upon him.
Sidi Obka is the religious, as Hiskra
may be styled the political, capital of
the Ziban. It derives its name from
the illustrious warrior who, at the head
of a small body of Arab horsemen, went
forth at the "bi.biing of the Khalifa
Jloaouia to conquer Africa in the COtli
year of the Hedjira. ^Vhat Rome had
taken centuries to effect Okba accom-
]>li.shed in a marvellously short time ;
and when he had extended his conquest
from Egypt to Tangier he s]nirrc(I his
liorsf into the Atlantic and declared
tliat only sui'h a liariier could prevent
him from forcing every nation beyond
it who knew not C!od to worship Kim
mdy or die. Many revolts took jdace
before the ]iower of the conqueror was
consolidated, and in one of them — at
Tehouda, about 700 metres from the
oasis of Sidi Okba, in a.i>. (i><2 (a.ii.
63)— he, with about 300 of his followers
was massacred by a Berber chief of
the name of Koeeila, whom ho hail sub-
jected to great indignity. When later
the Aralis liad reconquered the country
in which l>iskra now stands, they
lairied their leader at the jilace wliicli
bears his name.
A visit to the oasis of Oumach gives
the traveller an opportunity of seeing
a specimen of the dunes of sand, so
chaiaeteristic of the desert.
Chetma is within a drive of 1 lir.
and is worthy of a visit. The houses
are on a somewhat larger scale tlian
those at Sidi Okba or Biskra.
ROUTE 15.
Biskra to TuggTirt.'
As we observed when coiieluding the
route to El-Aghouat, it is hardly with-
in tlie scope of this work to describe
the routes between the various oases in
the Sahara. Still, as Englishmen, and
Englishwomen also, are becoming year
by year more adventurous, we give one
of the most interesting routes as a
specimen of desert travel.
Noiu', however, who are not in robust
health and capable of undergoing con-
siderable fatigue and jirivation should
attemjit it.
The best means of ])erforming the
jouriu'y is on horseback, nml iiefore
starting the traveller wouM do well to
take the advice of the autliorities ns to
the hiring of transport and guides ;
especial care Iteing taken that some of
the party shouhi un<lei-stand both the
French and Arabic language.s. A guide
can always lie obtained at the hotel.
A light waggonette may be iiired ar
Uiskni for the trip, and with 3 iiorms
ought not to cost more than 4iio or
•1.10 f.
The traveller .should provide hini-
s(df with such jirovisions and wine ns
he may require for the journey, and
abstain fmni drinking too much desert
water.
Bedding ought also to bo taken, a-
I Tlio ili.stniierH lien- kivi'Ii imi»t "tily 1»
taken b« an «iiiinixiin.iti"n t<> the truth.
218
UOUTK IT). niSKIlA TO TDGGURT
A Jijeria
till! caiavaiisurai.s an- (|uit(; uiipniviilud
ill tliis ruspcct. A diligence runs every
sceoiid day and makes tlic journey in
tliree days. It is a wretched convey-
ance.
Tlie best time lor this journey is
autumn or early spring ; Ijy the b(!gin-
iiing of Jlay tiic lieat is already too
great for desert travelling.
\i>l da;/. After leaving the hotel the
road leads for about an hour through
tlie palm groves of Biskra, and then
emerges into a slightly undulating plain
covered with a thick scrub of terebinth,
as high as the heads of the goats which
browse amongst it.
36 kil. The track crosses the Oued
JJis/itrt twice. After rains this river is
very deep, with so much mud at the
bottom as to be fordable only with
great difficulty by carriages.
38 kil. Sadda. The character of the
country does not change before reach-
ing this place, which is a fortified
caravanserai, with rooms for travellers,
but no furniture of any kind, neither
are jirovisions procurable.
61 kil. A'in-Chegga, a caravanserai
like the last, offering only the protection
of its roof to travellers. It is situated
on comparatively low gi'ound, in the
centre of a vast, shallow, treeless basin.
Gerboa rats abound here, and allbrd a
by no means unpalatable meal faut dc
micux.
2d day. After leaving Chegga, the
country is bare and uninteresting,
closely covered with short scrub, inter-
spersed with patches of brushwood.
The road gradually ascends from the
basin where Chegga stands until a
])lain or tal)le-land of no great elevation
is attaineil.
76 kil. The table-land here suddenly
ceases, and a view is obtained of a great
l>lain, that of the Oued Ghelr, stretch-
ing far away to the S. and also (a little
to the left or S.E.) the great lake called
the Chott J/eli/h itjh, 300 kil. long. From
the edge of this plateau, looking back,
the last dim view is obtained of the
liold and beautifully coloured mountains
of lliskra.
The route now follows the course of
the Oued Gheir, who.se length is about
100 kil., and along which is a chain of
smaller chotts, which it connects with
the Chott Melghigh.
After the next 16 kil. palm oases
are more or less fre<[uently met with.
The road, on leaving the table-land,
descends by a steep saTid-hill, and the
station for the mid-day halt is 2 kil.
farther on, at Kef el-akhdar, where there
is an Artesian well of bracki.sh water,
surrounded by a wall 8 or 9 ft. high,
which gives the only shade or shelter
to be found.
At Sdil, 7 kil. before this place, there
is a well of better water, unmarked or
unprotected by a wall, but this is not
recommended as a halting-jilace, as it
breaks the day's journey too une(|ually.
The road now runs parallel to the
western shore of the Chott, at a dis-
tance of about 4 kil., and the heat is
not unfrequently temjiered by cool and
welcome breezes passing over its waters.
The country, though gradually ascend-
ing, is devoid of hills, the soil becomes
more sandy, and the road heavier ; but
the brushwood is so thick that the
track has to wind in and out amongst
it.
110 kil. Here, about two hours be-
fore reaching the halt, the traveller
comes upon the first dune of true desert
sand.
112 kil. Meroman, the first oasis of
the Oued Gheir, is passed on the left.
Beyond this, a thin dark line on the
horizon ahead indicates the oasis of
Maghaier, where the traveller must pass
the night.
A shorter and more pleasant route
for horses passes between these two
oases, much nearer to the Chott Mel-
ghigh.
123 kil. Maghaier, a village of sun-
dried bricks, surrounded by a mud
wall, situate at one side of a large oasis
containing 50,000 date palms. After
passing the gate the traveller will ]irob-
ably be conducted to the house of the
Sheikh, where he is sure of such hos-
pitality as the place affords. On leav-
ing, a present will be expected, though
never demanded.
A caravanserai, very good and clean,
has been built at about a quarter of an
hour's walk from the Sheikh's house.
Zd day. On leaving INIaghaier the
Sect. II
ROUTE 15. TUGGURT
2\0
road passes a succession of oases, de-
cidedly the most j)ieasant section of tlie
route. The road itself, however, is
sandy and heavy.
133 kil. Here, about 1^ hr. from
Ma^haier, is a spring of good water,
surrounded by two or three palm-trees.
After passing this spring, and at 5
kil. to the riglit of the road, is the oasis
of Sidi Rahel, where an Artesian well
was sunk in 1874.
1.55 kil. Halt for breakfast at the
Artesian well of Meza Bcrzig, where
are a few young palms, replacing those
destroyed during the insurrection of
1871. Two hours after leaving this is
a pond of tolerably good water, thickly
fringed with rushes and other aipiatic
plants — a veritable "diamond in the
desert." Beyond it the track is long,
sand}', and ver}' heavy, skirting three
or four oases, amongst them Uurlana,
with its famous Artesian well. There
is a caravanserai liere, but it is in a
very dilapidated condition ; the tra-
veller would do well to ask hospitality
at the Sheikh's house. The next oasis
is that of
183 kil. Tamrrnri, a village appar-
ently of greater importance than Alag-
haier, built, like it, of mud ; but on a
conspicuous mound witliin it stands
the ruin of a building of cut stone,
circular in ])lan, composed of a con-
tinuous arcade of horse-shoe arches.
On the outskirts of the village is
a caravanserai, worse even than the
otiiers. The Sheikh's"house is 1.") or 20
minutes' walk distant,within the village.
4(k day. The road this day jiasscs
through fewer oases than on the pre-
vious one, and is very trying for the
horses. The sand becomes liner in
grain as one aiijiroaches Tuggurt, whicii
is surroun<led on every side by the true
desert sand. About three hours aftei-
starting, the road skirts the fine oasis
of Sidi lldilitd, which is often selected
as a halting-place. Thence it lies over
gently undulating plains, varied by low
iiiils of sand.
203 kil. The most convenient halt-
ing-iilace is at (lumrhti, a large (tasis on
the right of the road, four hours from
Tamerna. Here is a clear and rapid
stream of nearly sweet water. Soon
after leaving this place one get.s a
glimpse of Tuggurt, on a di.^tant liill ;
between tlie two iilaces, liowever, one
l)asses neither oasis nor water, notiiiiii'
but .sjmd the whole way. It is soui'
times disjtosed in steep ridges aliou;
'20 feet high, so loose that it lias to b
}<assed witii the greatest care, to avoi'l
the burial, more or less complete, of
carriage and horses.
Along one jiart of the route is seen
a succession of round pillai-s of rubbli
masonry, 12 ft. high, to mark the track,
whicli is apt to be elfaced by sand
drifts.
223 kil. Tuggurt stands out an im-
posing and conspicuous object on the
brow of a hill, with its domes and
towers in bright relief against tlie
magnificent mass of palm-trees beliiii!
them.
The approach of strangers is a nil'
event ; and, in the crowds whicli gather
mund the gate, in their freedom ami
vivacity of gesture, in the brightness
of their costume and the deeper hue of
their faces, the traveller will obtain a
most interesting ]iicture of Oued Glieir
society.
On passing the gate, the traveller
.sees an irregular marketplace situate«l
on an ascent. On the right is a long
line of arcades, on the left is the wall
of the Kasba, which is surrounded by
a large dome ; in front is the chief
mosijue, with its dome and minaret ;
near it is another minaret of a ruined
mosque.
Tuggurt covers a space, whose longest
diameter is 400 metres, on a .slojie
inclining to the S. K. It was once
surrounded by a ditch or moat, whiih
is now lilled up. The houses nearest
tlie line of the old mi>at all join each
other, and, after the manner of the
Oued Gheir villages, form a continuous
fence or wall, interrupted only l)y the
town gates, of whiih there are two.
The town is divideil into quarter-,
respectively occupied by the citizens
proper, the I'liiii .Mansdur, the Jew
converts to Islam, tiie iiegro<'8, and
the foreigners. Hesides these there nr
other divisions.
The hou.ses are, for the nio.st J'ai!
built of suu-dried brick.s, but are soin'
■2-20
KOUTK IT). lUSKRA TO TUOGURT
A hjcria
limes (lc<()r;ilcil willi laiiiil luicks, dis-
|ii)seil in a inaiiiier to resi-iiible tracery.
'I'licy rarely rise a story above the
i;niiiiitl Hour. Tlic streets are narrow
anil windinii;.
There are in all 20 mosques. Of
tlicse the two already mentioned are
of much more importance than the
rest. One of the two is now used as a
carpenter's shop. The other, whose
cupola dominates the market-place, is
in bad repair, but possesses some very
One plaster arabes(|ue work, the design
of a Tunisian architect. From the min-
aret of the first mentioned of the two
mosques a very fine panoramic view of
the surrounding desert and oasis, includ-
ing that of Temacin with its mosque,
nia}' be obtained.
On entering Tuggurt by the Biskra
gate, the traveller, to reach the entrance
of the Kasbah, has to pass the entire
length of its wall, already mentioned as
bounding the market-iJace on the left.
The Kasbah consists of many courts. Its
outermost court is nearly as large as the
market-place, and, like it, is furnished
with arcades on one side. The com-
mandant's residence, the barracks, and
the hospital, are all within the enceinte
of the Kasbah. Itisbuilt of dressed stone
— a rare distinction in the Oued Gheir
— and contains some rooms of fair di-
mensions. In one of its inner courts is a
delightful garden, through which runs
a stream of water from an Artesian well
witliin it. There are three such wells
in Tuggurt.
There are hardly any French resi-
dents. The garrison is entirely native,
and the population is about 7000.
The oasis of Tuggurt contains
190,0110 palm trees. Shady lanes, be-
side streams of water, lead through
the groves. Under' the palms are gar-
dens in which grow luxuriantly fruit
trees, corn and vegetables.
Marshes and salt lakes cover a large
area near Tuggurt. The abundance of
water here and throughout the Oued
Ciheir is the cause of a malignant fever
at the end of April, and again early
in the autumn, frequently fatal to
Europeans, whilst the purgative nature
of the water is a fertile source of
diarrhcca and other similar complaints.
After the insurrection of 1.S71 the
Ciovernment established a regidar mili-
tary post at Tuggurt, but after the
capture of Jiou Clioiu-ha, in 1874, this
was abolished, and part of the sunound-
ing tribes were placed in the circle of
liiskra, and part in that of Kl-Aghouat.
Tuggurt has two .suburlw, one to the
S. among the mar.shcs, and one to the
N.E. on a hill. The Compnrjnic de
rOued Jiirh possesses a liouse and a
small piece of land here.
From Tuggurt an excursion may be
made to Temacin, an oasis aljout 20 kil.
to the S. W. About half-way, but a
little to the left of the direct road, is a
lake of salt water, the margin of which
is thickly fringed with tamarisks,
rushes, etc. ; it abounds with water-
fowl. Nearer Temacin is another and
larger one, connected with the stagnant
moats surrounding the walls of tlie
town. In these occur great (|uantities
of Chromidcc, the only true African fish
found in Algeria, and which are found
as far as the E. coast of the continent.
Temacin is a large town, forlorn, ne-
glected and ruinous, covering a gently
rising mound, and surrounded by a
wall and stagnant moat. This, with
its rude bridge, the arched gateway,
the successive tiers of houses, as they
rise in terraced ruin to the crest of the
mound, combine to give to it a strange
and weird dignit)', in good keeping
with its position as outpost at the desert
end of the Oued Gheir. After passing
through the winding and narrow streets
of the town a central square or place is
reached, in which is the Kaid's house.
Like all its neighbours it is of sun-dried
brick, and of the heaviest and rudest
construction.
At about 2 kil. to the S.E. is another
village, containing the Zaouia of a cele-
brated Marabout, whose descendant
still lives here. The streets are compara-
tively clean and well kept, affording a
marked contrast to those of Temacin.
The tomb-mosque adjoins the house of
tlie iVIarabout. The part containing
the tomb, though erected only 10 or 12
years ago by a builder from Tunis, has
already the appearance of antiquity.
The arabesque work on the interior of
the dome is good, but inferior to that
Sect. II
ROUTE 16. TO TEBK^^SA
221
at Tufjf^irt. Iron ami glass gates of
riiJe design, but highly prized here,
separate the shrine from the main body
of the mosque devoted to ordinary
religious service.
We cannot leave the desert without
a few words on the immense benefits
wliich tlie French have conferred upon
it by the sinking of Artesian wells.
In 1856 many of tlie oases in the
desert had become uninhabitable by the
filling up of existing wells, the number
of gardens diminished daily, and the
](oi)ulation began to emigrate to less
desolate parts of the country. Govern-
ment wisely determined not to clear out
existing wells, always a difficult and
even dangerous operation, but rather
to dig new ones by means of Artesian
Ijoriiig apjiaratus.
The first attemi)t was made at Tug-
gurt in 1856 ; after five weeks of Labour
the waterfield was tapped at a depth
of 60 metres from tlie surface, and
almost immediately afterwards a river
rushed forth yielding 4000 litres a
minute, double the quantity afforded
by the well of Grenelle at I'aris. The
joy and gratitude of tlie inhaljitaiits can
well be understood, and manifested it-
self by singing, dancing and fantasias
of every description.
Ever since similar scenes have been
taking place, not perhaps with the same
amount of astonishment, but with no
less rejoicing.
ROUTE 16.
To Tebessa.
.H
%i
g*
a S
O 2
— s
||
Names of Stations.
1^
£d
Ii
^
5-^
Souk-Aliras .
12S
ii
Oued Cliouk .
114
28
Drt-a ....
100
36
Mdaoariiiirli .
!t'J
68
Aouinet-ciIDi.'l) .
60
90
Morsott ....
3J
128
Tebessa ....
Until 1888 it was only pos.sible to
vi.sit this interesting place by a long and
fatiguing route, but now a brancli rail-
way has been constructed which leaves
the main line from Bone to Tunis at
•Souk-Ahras, and the journey can l-
made thence in 7 hrs.
After leaving Souk-Ahras the liur
follows the course of the Medjerda for a
distance of 7 kil. till the junction «)f
that river with tlie Oucd Miiii</i>uh ;
it crosses the latter by a viailuct, au"!
runs through a picturesque and woo<lod
valley as far as 11 kil., Oii.il fhoiiL;
the valli-y of spines or thistles ; this i'<
a watering station.
28 kil. Driu. The station is bad]\
named, being remote from the locality
whose name it bears ; it is better known
to the Aralis as .S'('/t Jlnihhn, from a
.Marabout close to the station. On the
high table-land to the K. is the pros-
perous village of Ziirourin, 12 kil. in a
direct line from Souk-Ahras.
36 kil. Mdauurouch. An important
depot for Alfa. 12 kil. to the W. are
the ruins of the ancient Mnlduru,
where St. Augustine commenced his
studies, and the birthplace of Apuleius.
(S,.,. p. 230.)
58 kil. The line passes close to
an isolateil mountain, DjcM Oitrnz'i,
near the toj) of which is a carious per-
foration. This is .saiil to have Inren
made by Sidi Oklia with his sjtear, on
[lurpose that he migiit have .some place
to which to tie his horse !
63 kil. Tiie line crosses the Oiifd
Mclliyfw, up the valley of which it has
been running (p. 230).
68 kil. Aouhift-cd-Dieh, another
depot for Alfa. (See p. 2.30.)
71 kil. Junction of the Outd MdhijUf
and the Mfskiaiut. Before this tho
former river is named Oucd Chabro.
The ground being full of magnesia th.
water is quite bitter.
96 kil. Morsott. Numerous I{om:iii
remains in the neighbourhood ; on
tower may bo .seen to the left dose t^"
the station.
118 kil. On the left is a hill, abrupt
towards one si«le and sloping on tli
other, called by the Arabs //»•/ K<-fi '.
and by Kuropeans " tho Gondarinr'
cap."
222
IIOUTE 1 6. TO TEBESSA
A hjcria
128 kil. Tebessa. 1878 inliab. 2950
feet al)ovc the sea.
Wc liavo no certain information as
to tlie (late of tlie lirst foundation of
Tehewsa ; neither Strabo nor Pliny
make mention of it, and its name
.•ipjiears for the first time in Ptolemy.
It is not probable, therefore, that its
existence as a Roman station could
have preceded the rei^i^n of Vespasian
(70-79). Situated on the high plateaux
which command both the Sahara and
tlie Tell, its position, from a strategic
])oint of view, was the most advan-
tageous which it is possible to conceive.
In tlie reign of Hadrian (123) the im-
])erial government thought it advisable
to connect it with Carthage by a great
highwaj% which work was carried out
by the III. Legion Augusta, under the
direction of Aletilius Secundus, lieu-
tenant of the emperor ; the record of
this work still exists : —
IMP. CAESAR
DIVI. NERVAE. NEPOS
DIVI. TRAIANI. PARTHICI. F.
TRAIANVS. HADRIANVS
AVG. PONT. MAX. TRIE.
POT. VII COS. Ill
VIAM. A. GARTHAGINE
THEVESTEN. STRAVIT.
; PER. LEO. III. AVO.
P. METILIO. SECVNDO
LEO. AVG. PR. PR.
Another inscription gives the exact
distance, 191 miles 700 paces. It
formed also the junction of the roads to
Cirta, Hippone, Lambessa and Tacape
(mod. Gabes). It was probably also an
entrepot for the commerce of Central
Africa as well as for the produce of the
country.
Christianity was introduced into
Carthage about A.D. 150, and Theveste
was probably one of the first places to
follow the example of the African
metropolis. Four bishops are recorded
as having ruled over the church here,
of whom the first assisted at the
council of Carthage, presided over by
St. Cyprian. Their names are : —
Lucius
Romulus
Urbicus
Felix
255
349
411
484
St. Maximilian ami St. Crisi)in suf-
fered martyrdom here, the former under
the })roconsidate of Dion, tlie latter
under Diocletian. St. Optat pecords
that a Donatist council assembled at
Theveste in a.d. -350.
In 428 and 429 Hippone was besieged
by the Vandals, and it was <biriiig this
period that St. Augustine died. The
Count Boniface subsequently signed a
treaty abandoning to the Vandals the
three Mauritanias and Numidia W. of
the Ampsagas (mod. Oued el-Kebir).
In 443 a second treaty was concluded
at Carthage between Genseric and
Valentinian, by which the Vandal king
restored to the J^mperor of the West
the three Mauritauias and Western
Numidia in exchange for Eastern
Numidia and other provinces, and from
this moment Theveste became part of
the Vandal kingdom.
It soon fell into insignificance and
disappeared from history until restored
by the Byzantine armies. Solomon,
successor of Belisarius, was the second
founder of Theveste, which he fortified,
as he did other cities in Mons Aurasius
(Aures) and elsewhere, and enclosed it
within ramparts and towers, the tracing
of which exists to the present day ; the
citadel, containing the modern town, is
as imposing in appearance as when built
thirteen centuries ago.
A very interesting inscription in one
of the openings of the triumphal arch
records this fact, and is the only one
hitherto found in Algeria making any
allusion to the Vandals —
-f Nuto divino felicissimis temporibMS
piisiinon; HI tlominoru/n.
nostron(?» Justiniani et Theodorae
Augustorum post abscisos ex Africa
Vaiulalos extinctamque ]iar Soloinonem
gloriosissMHO iiiagistro iiiilitum ex
consulte Praefecto Libyae ac patricio
uni versam JIaurusiam "gentem
Yiroxidentia ej!(^dem aeininentissimi
viri Theveste civitas a/undamenf(S
aedificata est.
Belisarius had hardly rpiitted Africa
when insurrection broke out in the
south. Solomon resisted bravely for 4
years, but was killed before the walls
of Tebessa in 543 a.d., after which the
histoiy of the place is enveloped in
obscurity during the time that it formed
part of the Eastern empire.
Sect. II
ROUTE 16. TEBKSSA
223
Then came tlic Aral) invasion nnder
Oklia ben Naf'a, and Aljdnlla Ix-n
Djalfer, whii'li destroyed the last traee
of Greek supreniac}', and converted
Manritania and Nuniidia to the relij^ion
111' Kl-Islain. During' the Moliainineihm
(limiination Tebessa jiartook of tiie vicis-
situdes of tlie dynasties whicli at various
times held the district, and linally sub-
mitted to a French column under
General Eandon in 1842, although it
was not nntil 1851 that it was per-
manently occui)ied.
Tebessa is situated at about IS kil.
from the Tunisian fivniticr, noith of
the mountains of iJou Rouiuan, which
enclose the basin of the Oucd Chabro,
ail allluciit of the Oued Meskiana. It
has an abundant water supply, and is
surrounded by beautiful gardens. In
front is an extensive plain watered by
numerous streaius liowing into the
Oued Chabro, which winds along the
i)ottom of the valley.
The modern town is contained within
the walls of the ancient Byzantine
citadel, which, however, occupies but a
small portion of the ancient city. Its
high walls Hanked with towers are still
in a tolerably good state of preservation,
and are evidently built of still older
materials.
It is almost square in form, the peri-
meter being about 1070 metres in ex-
tent. The walls are built of large cut
stones, and it is strengthened by 14
square towers, of which 4 are at the
angles, and the rest irregularly distri-
buted between them. Thf height of
the wall varies from ft to 10 metres ;
that of the towers from 10 to 12, .and
tin; thickness of the masonry from 2 to
2 -.50. It has three gates, the Bab cl-
Kcdim, or old gate, the Bab el-Djedid,
or new gate, and the Jiah cl-Kasba, or
gate of the citadel, which forms the
entrance to the new (piarter occupied
by th<! troops. 'J'he first of these is also
called tlu! gate of Solomon ; tlie second
is forme<l by the arch of L'aracalla.
The whole country round is covered
with Koman rciiiaiiis, proving not only
the great extent (if Roman colonisation,
but the high state of civilisation that
prevailed under their rule, neither of
wldch are at all likely to be approached
in modern days. Amongst the ancient
monuments in and around tlie town
itself are —
The teti-astyle Temple of Jupiter
usually but erroneously ealled Temple
of Minerva, owing to the eagles on the
entablature being mistaken for owls.
It is situated within the present c«-
ccinti\ and is of the Corinthian order,
14 metres long, including tlie jiroiiaos,
by 8 metres broa«l. The material of tlie
main liuilding is compact limestone.
Each side is strengthened by four pilas-
ters, and in front is the portico sup-
ported Ijy six monolithic columns of
cij)polino, four of which are in front. It
is raised on a basement or podium Utiti
metres high, in whicli are tliree vaults
now filled up, and access to the temi»le
is attained by a handsome llight of cut
stone steps.
This jiortieo is preserved by a multi-
plicity of iron tie rods and straps that
are anything but ])ictures(iue. One-
half the ingenuity and labour used in
this would have sudieed to reconstrmt
the portico, stone by stone, in a ver-
tical position.
The entablature is not of a regular
form, the architrave and frieze forming
one height ; over the columns and pil-
asters arc panels ornamented by //«-•-
raiies or ox .skulls. The intermeiliate
s])aees are occupied by panels highly
sculptured. Tliis is immediately crowned
by the cornice, aliove which is a highly
ornamented attic, now about equal in
height to the entablature. No tloubt
it had a cornice, wliich has disappeared.
In the iianels between the bKa-anrs are
eagles holding thuiiderlxdts, on either
side of which an; serpents and branches
with trilobate leaves. On the attic,
the vertical panels over the coluiiiii-
and ]iilasters have trophies of nniiour,
and the oblong ones alternately gui-
lanils and doubh; horns of j>leiity.
The attic on the front has no sculp-
ture, and this was doubtless intended
to receive marble slabs with a dedica-
tory inseri|itioll. The sollits lietween
the columns are everywhere liilily de<o-
rated, and between the two ceiilml
columns is the hcnd of Jupiter Tonans.
It was originally surroumliul by an
224
ROUTE 16. TO TEBKSSA
Algeria
enclosure wall, the f^atc; of wliich now
ac'limlly serves as the front door of tlic
nio.si|U(! oi)])osite.
This Imildini,' has heen put to many
uses since tlic Krcneh occujiation ; at
lii'st it was a soap manufactory, then
tlio Bureau du Ginie, subsequently a
prison, and a canteen ; and lastly it
was converted into the ])arish church,
with ecclesiastical fittings in the worst
style of tlie (jenie militairc. It is greatly
to he desired that the hideous modern
additions may be removed, and the
tem|i]e restored to its original beauty.
At the present time it is used by M.
Delapart, the Cure of Tebessa, a most
enthusiastic antiquary, and beloved by
all classes of the community, as a depot
for many valuable antiquities which he
has collected in the Basilica and else-
where, this is well worthy of a visit.
The triumphal Arch of Caracalla is
a really magnificent monument of the
description called quadrifrons, each face
representing an ordinary single arch of
triumph. The only other known speci-
mens of the kind are the arch of Janus
Quadrifous, at Rome, much inferior to
this both in size and beauty, and the
great arch at Tripoli in Africa, which is
a much finer building. There is also an
imperial medal in existence containing
a similar arch, dedicated to Domitian.
This monument is built of large blocks
of cut stone. A pair of Corinthian mono-
lithic disengaged columns flank each
arch, behind which are pilasters. Each
column stands upon its own pedestal,
and not, as is usually the case in Afri-
can monuments, upon one common to
each pair of columns.
The soffits supported by these, and
also the central ceiling, were richly
decorated. The entablature is com-
posed of a highly ornate architrave,
with rounded leaves at the angles,
above which is a cornice. There is also
a lofty frieze, as though for the recep-
tion of an inscription, and this also is
surmounted by a cornice.
Above the N. facade is a small
building, intended as a niche to con-
tain a bust or statue ; the semicircular
base is still in place. It is fronted by
two isolated columns, with correspond-
ing pilasters on the right and left of
the niche. The whole is covered with
a Hat roof, with a plain architrave
and cornice on the outside. Another
was j)robably built on the S. side; in-
deed, but for the inscription on the
insiile, one would be tem[)ted to believe
that there must have been one above
each fa<;ade. The head of a bust,
evidently belonging to this niche, and
supposed to be that of Septimius
Severus, was found in the neighbour-
hood, and was taken to tlie Engineers'
ollice in the Palace at Constantine.
From the inscriptions on the interior
we learn the history of the building.
There was a rich family of Tebessa
represented by three brothers, Cornelius
Fortunatus, Cornelius Quintus, and
Cornelius Egrilianus. The last of these
commanded the 14th legion, Gemina,
and died leaving all his [iroperty to his
two brothers on certain conditions.
The first was that they should erect a
triumphal arch surmounted by two
tetrastyles, enclosing statues of the two
August!. In the Forum also were to be
placed statues of the divine Severus
and of the goddess Minerva. 250,000
sesterces were to be expended on these
works. A further sum of 250,000
sesterces was to be devoted to affording
gratuitous baths to the inhabitants in
the public fhcrmce, and lastly 170 lbs.
of silver and 14 lbs. of gold were to be
deposited in the Capitol for a purpose
which is not clear from the inscription.
The days available for public baths are
recorded in another inscription, on the
opjiosite side of the arch.
On each facade, above the arch, was
a tablet containing a deilicatory inscrip-
tion. The western one was in honour
of Julia Domna, wife of the Emperor
Septimius Severus, and mother of the
two Emperors Caracalla and Geta.
The key of the arch below is deco-
rated with an eagle holding thunder-
bolts, supporting a medallion, out of
which rises a female bust, wearing a
high mural crown, typical, perhaps, of
Julia Domna herself or of Rome.
Septimius Severus died in a.d. 211,
and the two Augusti mentioned in the
Testament were evidently Caracalla and
Geta. Caracalla murdered his brother
Sect. II
ROUTE IG. TEBESSA
in 212, consequently the date of the
Testament is fixed between those two
years, thougli the execution of the work
may have been a little later. The east
fa(;ade bears a dedication to Septinuus
Severns himself. It has a medallion
similar to that on the "W. front, of a
warrior in armour, resting on a head of
the Medusa, representing jirobably Sep-
timius Sevenis himself, and the terror
which his countenance was supposed to
inspire. It runs as follows : —
DIVO . PIO . SEVKRO . PATRI
IMP. CAES. il. AVKKl.l . SEVEUI . AXTOSISI .
I'll. FELICIS . AVG. ARAB. ADIAB. PARTH. MA.X.
BRIT.
MAX. f;ERM. MAX. PONT. MAX. TRIE. POT XVII.
IMP. II.
COS. nil. PKOCOS. P.P.
The southern inscription is illegible ;
it is believed to have been in honour of
Caracalla ; and the northern one is
wanting, and, if ever executed at all,
was proliably in honour of (ieta to com-
jilete the series. The two other medal-
lions are obliterated.
The partial destruction of this arch
may date from the fifth century, when
tlie city was deserteil by its inhabitants
and sacked by the Numidians ; but its
) "reservation at all was undoubtedly
due to Solomon having so traced the
walls of the citadel as to adopt it as the
principal entrance gate.
One of the most interesting ruins in
Algeria is that of the great Basilica of
Theveste. It is situated about 600
metres N.E. of the modern town, and
consists of a vast edifice, 65 metres long
by 22 broad, enclosed within a wall
180 metres long liy 39 broad, strength-
ened at intervals bj- scinare towers, only
two of which remain.
The principal entrance to the en-
closure is to the S.W. The arch is quite
entire, but the numerous subsitliary
l)uildings in the court are razed to the
ground, except where they seem to form
actually part of tlie main structure.
The masonry throughout is of ini-
meiise blocks of stone, carefully cut
and adjusted, almost without the use of
mortar ; nevertheless, it bears unmis-
takable evidence of having been con-
structed at various epochs. The original
building, however, was evidently the
[AhjrrM.]
Roman basilica, pretty exactly as Vit-
ruvius describes it, with a nave and
two aisles, the farther end being fur-
nished with a semicircular apse.
The reader need hardly be reminded
that the ancient Haiilica was a court <if
ju.stice ; the pnetor or principal judge
was seated in the apse, with as.sessors
on either side. A railing separated this
from the nave ; and, according to Vitru-
vius, the lateral aisles were surmounted
by galleries looking into the nave. This
jieculiar form was so perfectly adapted
for Christian worship tliat it wa.s at once
adopted by the Western Church. 'I'he
bishop took the place of the pnetor in
cat/uifrd, and his subordinates in the
hierarchj- those of the assessors. The
altar, like the pedestal and statue of
the god among the ancients, was situ-
ateil before him, sejiarating him from
the congregation collected in the nave
and aisles ; the gallery above the latter
liecaine the clerestory, and the open
court in front the narthex, in whiih
the unbaptizcd remained during the
performance of religious ceremonies.
The access to this building is by a
llight of thirteen steps of uiiecjual width,
the greater number of which are de-
stroyed, leading into the jieristyle by
three doors, a large one in the middle
and a smaller one on each side. This
court must have been most imposing.
It was surruumled by an arcade, each
side supi>orted by four column.s, between
whiidi were pedestals, probably destined
for statues ; the central portion was
open to the sky, and in it was an eh--
vat'd basin or fnnntain, the whole re-
sembling very much in design the court
of a Moorish house of the present dav.
Friim the right or east wall of this
were doors leading into two small
chambers, one of which was the baptis-
tery, the font Uing still tolerably
perfect in the centre of the lloor. Tli^
other chamber is of irregular .shape,
having been added at a sulwecjuent
pcrioii.
IJeyond this comes the main body of
the buililing, entered by three diMirs.
It consisted of a nave with npsidal end
and two aisles. The nave and aisles were
separated by piers and engaged shaft.s
in two hUperimi>osed orders, the wholo
22G
llOUTE 10. TO TEBKS.SA
A hjeria
boiiif^ arcaded, and tlic aisles having a
gallery. Tlie walls were built of fine
wliitc limestone ; the columns are of
gray granite, white marble, and blue
cip])olino, the first and last probably of
Oreck origin. JIany of the columns
are lnokcn ; the bases arc all in their
original position.
It is ea.sy to recognise the period of
the Pagan Emperors ; a later epoch,
with a certain amount of Christian art ;
and ultimately a period of absolute
decadence, prol)ably the last time that
Christians worked in this country.
The first is marked by Corinthian
columns, the capitals of which are in
the most correct form, and the shafts
of polished marble and granite, and of
a beauty which would only have been
marred by fluting. The second is re-
presented by fragments of fluted and
spiral columns, the capitals of which
Avere richly decorated with foliage ; and
lastly, there are rough productions in
stone, out of all keeping with the rest
of the building, the capitals of which
bear grotesque representations of fishes,
perhaps used as the symbol of Christ.
Most of these last have now been
removed to the museum and church.
The apse is raised above the level of
the nave, with three steps on which to
mount to it. On either side is a square
chamber, corresponding to the termi-
nation of the aisles. From the first
to the fourth pillars on each side, and
again across from the fourth on one side
to the fourth on the other, are grooves
to receive a railing, showing that this
part was divided ofl' with the apse to
form, perhaps, at first the praetor's court,
and subsequently the sacrarium ; in the
centre of this space is an oblong vault
or cavit}'. The whole of the floor is
covered with tesselated pavements of
very elegant designs and admirable
execution. These are almost perfect in
condition, and have been judiciously
covered over with a layer of earth to
protect them from injury.
Descending from the east side aisle
b}' a flight of about thirteen steps is a
chapel of the form of a trefoil inscribed
within a square.
From the north; and south apses
arc communications with small lateral
chambers right and left, and from the
south one there is access through a
.small anteroom to a sepulchral chamber
beyond ; the front of each apse was
arched, the arches .supported on each
side by columns of green cipjiolino.
In tiie centre of the square contained
I)etween them was what appears to be
the foundation of an altar ; the walls
were covered, for a part at least of their
height, with a mosaic of the richest
marbles, porphyry, and .serpentine, so
dis])osed as to form either pictorial
designs or geometric pattern.s, while
the ceiling was a mosaic of glass, quan-
tities of tesserae, both coloured and gilt,
having been found amongst the debris.
The floor also was mosaic.
This building was probably an addi-
tion, subsequent to the erection of the
main body of the basilica. It is also
certain that it must have replaced a
still older structure, as traces of tesse-
lated pavement were found 4 ft. below
the actual floor.
A large sarcophagus of marble, with
Christian figures rudely sculptured, was
found at the bottom of the stairs.
In the sepulchral chamber above
mentioned was found a tesselated pave-
ment, containing four inscriptions re-
cording the interment of individuals
beneath them. One is that of Palla-
diu.s. Bishop of Idicra, near Cirta (Con-
stantine), who died here on his return
from the Council of Carthage, tinder
Huneric, in 4S4. This inscription was
headed by a cross, having in the lower
right hand angle the letter Omega. It
is curious to observe that the corre-
sjionding one on the left hand does not
contain the Alpha, as is usually the
case. It has been said that this was
owing to the fact of the bishop having
died out of his own diocese. The tomb
was opened, thus destroying the in-
scription, but the bishop's skeleton was
found perfectly preserved after fourteen
centuries. It rested on a bed of laurel
leaves, and its brown hair was un-
decayed. These venerable remains are
preserved in the church of Tebessa.
Another tomb was opened, that of
JIarcella, and in it were found perfectly-
preserved bones and light hair. The
inscription -was also necessarily de-
Sect. II
nOUTE 1 G. TEBE88A
stroyeJ, Lut the others (tliree in imiii-
ber) were allowed to remain intact.
There were various buildinfjs, jirob-
ably cells or shops, outside and ajjainst
the main structure, and the whole was
surrounded by a stron» wall, lianked
at intervals with towers, like a vast
fortitied convent. This it doubtless
was during tlu- later years of its exist-
ence, but unfortunately its history is
entirely unknown, and its original
destination, or at least the destination
of the older portion of it, must remain
a matter of conjecture.
From a careful study of the archi-
tecture of this building, however, the
grand .simi>licity of its design, and the
richness of its materials, it is ditlicult
to believe that the earlier portions of
it could have been built after the intro-
duction of Christianity into Tevcsto,
when art was already in its ilecadence.
The presumption is strong that it could
not have been connncnced later than
the end of the 1st or bcginiiing of the
'2d century ; this would make it older
tlian almost any of the Roman monu-
ments of Algeria, as it certainly was
sujierior to most of them in elegance
and simplicity, though less Uorid in
decoration.
A new Church has been built by the
good Cure Uclai)art, which is itself
quite a museum. All the fragments of
Cliristian architecture which he could
collect have been worked up into the
Iniilding. One of them is of exceptional
interest, being a small panel of glass
Jlosaic, supposed to lie that made to
record the consecration of the liasilica.
The altar even has been brought from
that building.
Some line Mosaics, probably belong-
ing to public batlis, were discovered in
1886 in the cavalry ([uarters. They
are now enclosed in a building erected
for their preservation, the key of whicli
is in charge of the Cure. One of the
subjects represents Amphytritc sur-
rounded by Nereids ; another rcjjresents
a vessel laden with large amiihora-,
and the inscription Fovlnna rrdiu: The
most curious is a sort of game — the
ground is covered with compartments
in which are represented animals such
as a bull, an ostrich, a gazelle, and
a wild boar, each having numbers
attai'lied, as in the cups of a bagatelle
l)oard ; juobably leailen ijuoits or some
such things wire thrown into these.
This is called the hall of Manullus,
as it contains the figure of a ]k'|'soii so
named.
Rijmnn AqtinUict of Aln • cl • Jihd.
The spring of A'm -rl- Blnl, whiih
alfords 2000 litres of water jier minute,
furnishes the town with water, and
irrigates the gardens to the N. and E.
It is brought to the town in a massive
Roman aqueduct, 900 metres hmg,
passing over a bridge of the same
period. There is a .second Roman
aqueduct, that oi A'tn -Chela.
Within the town is a Roman honsc
still used as a habitation. It is of
great size, ami was probably the iialace
of some important personage. Half of
it is buried under the soil, and the
absence of all exterior openijigs of the
.same date as its erection, except the
entrance, now bricked up, induces the
lielief that it had an interior court.
Outside the gate of Solomon, on tin
verge of the ravine which ilividcd
ancient Theveste into two ecjual joirts,
are the remains of a theatre, n«>w
entirely overgrown with gniss, and of
no particular interest. It was about
r»2 metres in diameter, and nearly cir-
cular in form.
Of the forum no trace now remains.
It occupied the site of the j>re.sent
es|)lanade planted with trees, in front
iif the modern citadel.
What cannot fail to strike the tra-
veller with astonishment is the enor-
mous amount of beautifully cut stones,
of great size, lying about in every
direction ; not onlyare the I >y/.antine for-
tifications, the modern French Kasl^ah,
and half the houses in the town, built
of them, but even the garden enclosures
around, ami the ground is full of them
wherever excavations are mnile.
About 600 mitres to the south of the
town is the Jlaralniut or Zaouia of Sidi-
Abd-er- Rihman, who is supposed to
have founded it.
There arc many other Roman ruins
of interest in tlie circle of TelH-ssn, and
on Djcbel Mistiri, west of the town, ami
22S
i:()UTK 17. Ti:i!l';SSA TO SOUK-AHRAS
Alijeria
«'xti'iiiliii.<,' as far as DJclicl Youkons,
ai'(! a iiuiiilipr of uu^galithic toiMl)s of a
cirrular foi'in. Tlioy are about 100 in
iimiiber, situated in a single line, tlie
right of which rests on the ruins of a
iJyzantiiie tower. The largest is about
'J '43 nu''trcs high, and from 3^ to 9
luetres in diameter. They differ from
those of Foum Kosentiua by being built
in successiv'c and gradually decreasing
courses, without any single covering
stone ; they rather resemble the Med-
rassen and the tombs in its vicinity.
[E.KCursions may be made from
Tebessa to the following places : —
1. Soumat-eJ-Klicneg,Q, situated about
9 kil. S. of Berzegan, on the ancient
Roman road between Theveste and
Capsa. This is the mausoleum of C.
Julius Dexter, a standard-bearer, who
lived in a farm near Teriana.
2. Souma hint-cl-Abri,Q, thenjinaret
of the chief's daughter, 60 kilometres
from Tebessa, on the last northern
slopes of Djebel Foua. This is a very
interesting monument, in a good state
of preservation, and though it contains
no inscription, it is believed by the Arabs
to be the resting-place of the celebrated
Kahiua, chieftainess of the Aures, the
legend regarding whom is given at p.
321. It is certainly a Roman mauso-
leum of a very ordinary type, and of a
date much anterior to that of Kahiua.
3. Fcidjet cl-Glwusa, 8. — Situated at
50 kil. S. of Tebessa, in the plain of
l)OU-Djebel. This is a tumulary monu-
ment, surmounted by a double inscrip-
tion, showing that it was erected by
two brothers to the memory of their
father and mother.
4. But by far the most interesting
excursion is one across the Tunisian
frontier to Hydra, the ancient Ammaj-
dara, where still exists one of the most
important triumphal arches in North
Africa. The distance is about 36 kil. ;
the traveller will require to take every-
thing he may require in the shape of
food with liim, as no provisions are
procurable. There is a house belonging
to the Tunisian Customs department at
which it may be possible to sleep if the
traveller takes his own bedding.
The arch in question is a very liand-
some one, the ]ieculiar feature of wliieh
is the unusual height of its entablature,
whiidi is half of the columns. On the
frieze is the following inscriptioii : —
IMP. CAES. L. SEPTIMIO . SEVERO . PERTINACI
AVO. P.M. TRIH. POT. III. IMP. V. COS. II. PP.
PAKTIIirO . AUADICO . ET PARTIIICO
AZIABRNICO . DD. PP.]
ROUTE 17.
Tebessa to Souk-Ahras, by Khamisa.
This is a journey which we do not
recommend to the general traveller.
Any one undertaking it must be con-
tent to put up with a littL; rough life,
to take his provisions with him, and
carry his own tent. Most travellers
will be content to proceed to Tebessa
by the railway, which has been con-
structed since this route was written,
see p. 221.
Still, if one is able to dispense with
the comforts of civilisation for a few
days, he will find the journey a most
interesting one from an archaeological
point of view.
After leaving Tebessa, the road goes
nearly N., crossing the plain of Tebessa.
5 kil. The Roman, or perhaps By-
zantine ruins of Khooshada, a con-
siderable post.
8 kil. At the foot of the mountain
the spring and ruins of El-Kissa, G.
Numerous tombstones have been found
here, and amongst them a large pro-
portion belonging to centenarians.
Several hundred yards from the ruins
is a handsome monumental tomb, in a
very good state of preservation.
The road now passes over picturesque
but desolate mountains of limestone.
At
13 kil. A'in-Azouagha, there is a
beautiful spring of clear water, and fine
scener}'.
26 kil. Bordj Kaid El-Al-hdar, the
residence of the Kaid of that name, a
large stone building like a caravan-
serai, where there is a little cultiva-
tion, and where the traveller can lodge
Sect. II
ROUTE 17. EL-Mi:UII)J
229
ill a case of necessity. The road now
eiiieij^e.s into a long dreary plain,
coverrd with arteniisia and rosemary,
and follows tlie Tunisian frontier at a
distance of a few miles.
32 kil. Birkct-el Faras (Lake of the
Mare), an extensive swamp, very deej)
in the centre. Kuins of Roman posts
every few miles along the route.
40 kil. J)j<hrl hou-Jaijar or hou-
])ji(b<ir, an isolated hill through which
the frontier passes. E. of it is a very
remarkable ilat hill called El-Kalaa or
Kaliiat es-Sanan, which from this point
exactly resembles a gigantic martello
tower jierched on the top of a mount-
ain. In a depression on the summit
is a Tunisian town, the ancient capital
of the Harars. The road to El-l\alaa
is by a narrow path in the rock,
accessible only on foot. El-Meridj
is the best starting-point, distance
15 kil.
The name Kaliiat es-Sanan is de-
rived from that of the first Jlohamme-
tlan chief who governed the country,
llannach bin Abdulla cs - Sanani, a
native of Saniia in Arabia Felix. This
mountain is said to contain iron ore,
liut it has not liecu explored.
.02 kil. El-Meridj. A smala of
Spahis, 2300 ft. above the sea, and first
of a chain of frontier stations which
extend to the sea E. of La (.'allc. It
is an immense fortified enclosure, with
([uarters for the European commissioned
and non - comndssioned officers, to-
gether with stables for the Spahis's
horses. The Spahis themselves live
outside in tents, and cultivate the land
allotted to them. There are al>out 70
Spahis and .'> Euro[)ean oHlcers. It
has an abundant water sujjply and an
excellent garden, but the climate is
exceedingly unhealthy in summer, and
during two or three months every
year the garrison has to be removed to
Tebessa. Thei'e is a canteen in the fort,
at which provisions can be obtained, l)Ut
travellers properly recommended by the
Commandant of Tebessa are sure to
meet with a cordial reception from tlie
oliicers stationed here.
From El-Mcridj the direct road to
Souk-Ahnis is bj' Aln-Oucttar, con-
tinuing along the frontier, but with
the excc|itiou of that fort there is not
mui'h to interest the traveller here.
.Vin-Cuettar, like Kl-Miridj, is a
smala of Spahis, 20 kil. S.E. of Souk-
Ahras, celebrated as being the ])lace
where the first act in the insurrection
of 1871 took jdace.
On the 22d of January 1871 tlie
Commandant detailed several of his
men U)V service in France. They mur-
mured, refused to obey, and on the
23d, after a council, 93 of them struck
their tents and left. Subseipieiitly
they murdered one of their Euro])ean
non-commissioned otlicers, and joined
the Arabs in attacking Souk-Ahras.
Near it is I'aount, 9, the ancient
Tagura, where are numerous interest-
ing Roman remains ; as, indeed, there
are all over the country. In no ]part
of Algeria had the Roman sway taken
so "deep a root as in this province.
Instead of taking the direct road,
we advi.se the traveller to make a
detour to the N.W. for the jiurpose of
visiting the interesting ruins of Mdaou-
roach, TiJ'csh, and Kliumisd. But to
do this iie ought to provide himself
with a tent, unless he is assured be-
forehand that there will be Arab en-
campments in whicli he can pass the
night.
Starting from El-Meridj the track —
for road there is none — passes over a
plain swarming with game and wild
animals — hares, hyenas, jackals, wild
boar, partridges, pouhs dc Carlhaf/c
(smaller bustard), ipiails, etc., while
in the more distant hills are red deer
in considerable numbers, though ex-
tremely wild.
In front are seen four or live isolated
peaks, Djibrl Ahim Kliadcrn, J>j<bcl
Kalh, Djcbcl Maadthcr, and Djihcl
M(ik/icirfrf(i, etc. ; while to the right is
Jjjt/trl Oucn-ji, where are many interest-
ing Roman remains, 9, amongst others
I" or r»0 deep excavations in the rock,
prol)al)ly for the purpose of storing
corn.
69 kil. Aiii-Esh-Shnuut, 9. Here a
beautiful and aluindant spring is.sucs
from the midst of a thick grove of fig
trees at the foot of a Roman or Byzan-
tine tower, built probably to protect
what must have been an imi)ortaut
230
ROUTK 17. TEBESSA TO HOUK-AHHAS
A hjeria
road li(!t\vcen Cartlia^e iiiid jMu.scula
{Ahi - Klimclila). This is manifest
I'roiii tlic miiiieroiis fVmii<bitions of farriiS,
or waysido estahlisliiiiuiits, evurywhere
seen along the route. A similar tower,
the Kasr el Alinicr, exists about 6
miles from the sniala of Ain-Guettar,
the distance between each being one
day's march. The fortification is about
9 '14 metres S([uare, the walls being
nearly 1'50 metres thick, 50 cent, on
ea(di side, of solid blocks of cut stone,
the interstices being filled up with
rubble masonry. There appears to
have been only one opening, with the
excej^tion of loopholes, a door, only
the arch of which is now visible ; the
interior and exterior, as far as the
spring of the arch, being filled up
with the debris of the building. The
tower must have been of great height,
as 15 '50 metres of the wall is .sttU
standing on one side. This is a
charming spot for a halt of an hour or
two.
On leaving this the road passes
through a defile separating Djcbcl Kulb
(ilountain of the Heart) from Djcbel
Maadthcr, a part of which is through
a forest of Aleppo pines, and emerging
from the wooded countrj' enters a plain
in which flows the salt river of Oucd
MeUcijue.
79 kil. Aiwcnat-cd-Diab (more cor-
rectly A'mm-cd-Diab, the Springs of
the Jackals), 2-390 ft. above the sea, a
convenient camping place on the right
bank of the Oucd Mdlcguc, where is a
fountain of sweet water, the only one
for miles around.
On the opposite side of the river is
seen the conical isolated peak of Kcf-
er-7-akhm, and to the right of it Djebel
MaJchcircga, which was visible from
El-Meridj ; on the top is a curious per-
foration like a natural arch.
After crossing the river the plain is
sterile, affording but iudifterent pas-
turage, till
91 kil. Anchir Damous,Q, the ruins of
a considerable Roman town. After
passing this the country becomes more
undulating and fertile. Shortly before
reaching Mdaourouch, on the right
side of the road, a few dolmens are
passed.
115 kil. Mdaoiirouch, 3070 ft. above
the sea, the site of Medaura, one of the
most ancient Roman colonies of Al-
geria, is admirably situated in a wide
extent of fertile land, well watered,
and on the S. side bounded by wooded
mountains. It is the residence of
Ilamana bin El-Howshat, Kaid of the
MalUdala, who lias a well-built bordj
amongst the ruins, and is extremely
hospitable to strangers. His oflicial
resilience is at Tifcsh.
The site of the ancient city is well
marked by ruins covering an immen.se
extent of ground, for the most part
only foundations of houses built as
usual of Luge cut stones. To the ea.st
of the Raid's house is a square tomb,
with pent roof almost comjdete. It
consists of two stories, the upper one
having an arch in the middle and one
end open, as if half of the roof of the
lower story had been used as a terrace
for the upper room.
At the extreme W. is another im-
portant building, perhaps a basilica,
which cannot well be traced as it is
buried nearly as deep as the crown of
the lower arches.
But the most important of all is the
Byzantine fortress or palace, consisting
of a central keep, a tower on each side
connected with it by curtains, the inner
sides of which were probably cloistered,
and an enclosure behind completing
the enceinte.
The building is constructed of much
older Roman materials ; amongst which
one sees bases and capitals of Corinthian
columns ; one very perfect bas-relief of
a Roman in his toga, on the upper tier
of masonr}' in the southern tower ; and
numerous fragments of sculpture and
tombstones.
This building is said to have been
originally erected b}' the prefects Ga-
biuius and Sabinius. From a bi-
lingual inscription in Greek and Latin
over the main entrance, unfortunately
very much defaced, we have no diffi-
cnlty in concluding that, like many
other similar monuments, it was re-
stored by the Byzantine general,
Solomon.
The inscription has thus been re-
stored by M. Leon Renier : —
Sect. II
ROUTK 17. TIKESH
231
+ cum [ a ] edikicata est temi'okl-
bus [piis.sim] okum dominorum no[steorum]
justini[ani] et theou[orae PROVIDKNTIA
S]OLOMONIS CiLORI0[sl] KX C0KSU[LE MACIS-
TRI MILITII] IN ET PRAEFECTI AFRI[ca]E +
Many tombs lie scattered about, one
distinctly Christian bears, within a cir-
cle, the following inscription :—
MUNIVS IVLIVS
BARGEVS NEPOS VIR IIOSK
STVS VICXIT IN PACE FIIJKLIS
ANIS XXX III MINUS . ES XIII
DEPOSITUS EST V IDUS SEP
TEMBRES HIC SEC.
Jledaura was the birthplace of Apu-
leins, a philosopher and romancer.
The most famous of his works extant
is the "Golden Ass," an allegorical
work in eleven books, w*hich contains
the beautiful story of Cupid and
I'syche. He was born a.d. 114, and
was tiie lirst great original thinker
liroduced by Numidia, if we except
.hilia II. wdio was educated at Rome,
lie sulisiMjucntly settled at Qia, the
modern Triiioli, the country of his wife.
St. Augustine pursued his studies
here till the age of 16, when he went to
attend a course of rhetoric at Carthage.
The road, after leaving Mdauurouch,
passes over a series of low hills, all
well cultivated ; but on reaching the
culminating ])oint one is quite uui)re-
pared for the magnificent panorama
which bursts into view. As far as the
eye cau reach, E. and W., and about
4 m. across, extends the magnificent
valley of Ti/r.sh, one continuous corn-
lield, without a break, and without the
ai)i)arent delineation of a field, or an
acre of unfilled laud. Tlirough it
winds the Oucd Ti/cnh, which Hows
in a westerly direction, and, after
receiving numerous tributaries, eventu-
ally becomes the Seybouse and falls
into the sea at l>one. There appears
to be no limit to tlie amount of grain
which can be j>roduced here, and only
the iron horse is wanting to carry the
locked-up ])roduce to an atlvantageous
market. On tlie northern side of the
plain runs a line of mountains parallel
to that wliich the traveller has just
crossed, and on the southern slope of
it are the ruins of
133 kil. Tifesh, the ancient Tijxisa,
3140 ft. above the sea. El-Bekri re-
marked that Tifesh was a city of great
anti'iuity, remarkalile for the heigiit of
its liuildiugs and for the extent of its
ancient ruins.
When the first Arabs, successors of
Jlohaiiimed, invaded Africa, Tipasa
resisted them for a long time. It was
subse(piently taken and pillaged, but
soon sprang up again from its ashes.
It was destroyed a second time by
Mou.sa En-Nasser, and yet once more
by Moulai Nasser, son of the sovereign
of Tunis in 1057.
Although one cannot conceive a finer
jiosition, the remains of the ancient
city are by no means so extensive as at
either ildaourouch or Khamisa. The
only remarkable ruin is that of the
ancient fortress, built probably by the
Romans, certainly restored by the
liyzantiues, as several Roman tomb-
stones are embedded in its walls. It
is built on a spur gently ascending
fiom the plain, but sejiarated from
the main range by a remarkable
ravine, which cuts it off like a
gigantic natural ditch. Advantage
has been taken of tiiis conformation
to construct a fortified position of
considerable extent, occupying the
whole of the slo]iing face of the hill.
The interior is built up in ma.ssive ter-
races, the top of all being crowned by
a citadel. The walls are about 9 ft.
thick, of huge blocks of cut stone, and
fianked at intervals by square towers.
The tracing of the wliole is perfectly
visible, though only little remains of
the walls.
Besides this, the only other imi)ort-
ant building remaining is one of which
the character cannot be surmised. It
has one very large arch, but all the cut
.stone facing has disappeared, with the
exception of a fragment of the sollit of
the interior, and two gigantic stones
forming a cornice on the exterior ; the
rest are lying around.
The Kaid of Mtluoiiroiich has a l>ordj
a short distance to the W., and the
tents of the Slieikh of the district,
Mohammed Ih-ii Ahmed, of the Onlad
232
UOrTK 17. 'IKIiK.SSA TO SOUK-AIIRAS
A If/rria
Si Mmissa, are usuiilly in tin; mi^li-
bourliood.
It is .s;ii(l that ;it Omorr., aliout 4 kil.
to tlu! y.E. , tiiere are iniriicrous dol-
mens.
Iji'avinfT Tifesli, the road turns to
tlu! ri<,dit, f^oinjf through the raiij^e of
hills by a narrow and tortuous defile.
Here are many remains of the ancient
IJonian road leading to
145 kil. Khamisa, ancient Thuhursi-
cuni Nunddnruni, 3084 ft. above the
sea.
The ruins of the ancient city cover
a vast extent of ground, including
several hills and the intervening
valleys on the northern .slope of the
range separating it from Tipasa. It
rose in terraces of various widths, the
whole forming an irregular amphi-
theatre. Gardens no doubt surrounded
it in all directions, as is manifest from
the ruins of detached villas, and wells
in which the marks of ropes rubbing
against the stone facings are still trace-
able, and hydraulic works of every
variety, such as cisterns and aqueducts.
The city must have been one of
great importance in point of magni-
tude, though one sees nothing of the
exquisite architecture for which Te-
bessa is so distinguished.
The principal buildings are : — A iri-
um2)hal arch, quite perfect as far as the
keystone, through which the road from
Tipasa entered. It is constructed of
comparatively small stones, and is not
particularly elegant.
N.E. of it, and on the slope of the
highest part of the hill, is the Basilica,
which must have been an immense
structure built on various levels. It
is in a very imperfect condition, but
enough remains to show that its length
must have been moi'e than 66 metres.
Several fragments of huge columns are
lying close to it. It is now the site of
an Arab encampment, and the j'elping
and savage attacks of a hundred Arab
dogs make a visit to it by no means a
pleasant operation.
To the N.AV. of this, nearer to the
head of the main valley, are what
appear to be the remains of an immense
Palace; and here it was that an inscrip-
tion was found containing the name of
the city, thus fixing a site which before
was doubtl'ul. It lun as follows : —
I Ml' . (JAKS . M . AVKELIO , CLAVDIO .
I'lO . FELICI . AVO . I'.M . OOTHl'cO.M .
I'Aituico . M . rniB . ]' . Ill . co.s . ii . v.v.
I'UO COS . IIESI'VB . COLONIAE
TIIVIJVK.S . NVMIDARVM .
ImimrUori Caemri Marco Aurelio
Claudio rio Felici Augwsto Ponlijlci
Maximo Gothico Maximo Parthico
Maximo trihtmitia Votcdate III. Co?t-
auli II. Vatri lyatriw I'roconsuli Res-
\)uhlica colouiae Thubursicc?isn<?/i. Nu-
midarum.
This inscription is further interesting
as settling an obscure point of history re-
garding the 2d Consulship of Claudius.
In it were discovered marble sculp-
tures of various colours and great
beauty. Access to the building Avas
by a triple arch, now buried in debris
as far as the spring.
Lower down, at the base of one of
the hills, is the Theatre, the ground-plan
of which, and a considerable jiortion
of the superstructure, are entire ; the
stones of the remainder are all lying
about, and it would neither be a difh-
cult nor a costly task to reconstruct the
building exactly as it existed.
The seats for the spectators are to
a great extent entire, and not even
covered with vegetation. Facing this
is the stage, which, instead of being a
straight line, is formed by three semi-
circles which do not actually intersect
each other, but are separated by small
spaces. These were probably intended
to contribute towards the scenic effect
of the stage. The facade of the build-
ing was drawn as a tangent to these
circles, and from each of them there
was a door leading out of the building.
The length of the facade is 53 '-SS meti-es,
and the iuterior width of the building
59*43 metres.
Between the curved parts of the
stage and the facade were four small
chambers opening out\vardl3^ They
have no openings save the doors. On
each side of the proscenium are two
entrances, through one of which passes
a water conduit. There are also several
Sect. II
llOCTK 17. K HAM ISA
2Xi
small chambers, used doubtless for
theatrical purposes.
A sliort distance from this are the
ruins of wliat probaldy were cither the
public Ilalhs, or tlic water source of tiic
lower town. A spring of very brackisli
water issues from it, now called ^in-c/-
Yahoodie (Spring of the Jew), which
tradition says was once thermal. The
water is now (piite cool, but unjiotable.
All around are numberless fuunda-
tions of houses, some of them witli a
few feet of the sujierstructure remaining,
sulHcient to show that the Roman house
of that period was very similar to the
modern Moorish one — an o[)en central
court surrounded by the family apart-
ments.
There are also numerous Tombs in
every directiou in a very perfect con-
dition. JIany carefully record the age
of the jierson buried beneath, but none
tlie date when he died. Some have
sculptures as well as inscriptions, and
otheis sculptures only. Most of them
are headstones marking the vaulted
tomb below. Some, however, are liand-
some monumental structures of one or
two stories. The best of the headstones
is on the hill E. of the theatre. It
represents husband and wife joining
hands before an altar, below wliom are
two Cupids with reversed llanilteaux.
Another close to it represents a man
riding on horseback, with the inscrii)-
tion : —
g . POMPEIVS
ii . V . QVIR
SATVRNI
NVS . PIVS
VIX . AN . I-XXXI
H . S . li .
It is very remarkable to note the
great age recorded on these tomb-
stones. It is by no means rare to lind
the age u})wards of a century.
These ruins have been very little
explored, and oli'cr a vast Held for anti-
([uarian research.
It is probable that this city ha<l to
suller the fate of most otliers in Africa,
IVi'ipicnt destruction and rebuilding, as
wherever excavations are made the
ruins of older structures are found below
existing foundation.s.
After the destruction of Carthage,
R.c. 146, Ronu- took possession of tl.
Punic colonies along tlie coast, and
made the neighbouring districts into a
Roman province. It is possible tliat
Thuliursicum was founded about tliis
jieriod. At all events an inscription
proves that it was rebuilt for the third
time by Caius Gracchus at the same
time that he attempted to form a
Roman colony at Carthage.
The Arab legend regarding the de-
struction of Khamisa is as follows : — A
Christian jirincessof rare beauty, mmu-d
Khamisa, governed tlie city. Her hus-
band, Mdaouroudi, king of Medaura,
had repudiated and waged bitter war
against her. Khamisa, unable to with-
stand him, learning that the Moham-
medans had already conquered Hydra,
Tebessa, and Gastal, sent a dei>utatinn
to imjilore their assistance. Okba
listened favourably to her petition, took
Medaura, killed her liusband, converteil
her subjects, and made lier his favourite
wife. But not trusting too implietly
to the good faith of his new converts,
he took the jirecaution to dcmolisli the
fortifications of Khamisa befure pro-
ceeding on one of his expeditions. It
rebelled notwithstanding, whereupon he
destroyed the entire city to its fouud-
atious.
The more probable derivation of the
name Khannsa is from the fact of a
great market having been held on the
sj)ot every Thursday, from the earliest
times. Nothing is more common tlian
for places in Algeria to be named aft«r
the markets. Thus the site of Thubur-
sieum became Soiik-cl-K/uiviis (the
market of Thursday) or A'/ianii.'id.
Nevertheless, the ancient name sur-
vived the city 8 centuries. JItn C/kiikih,
a Tunisian writer of the 15th century,
recounts in liis chronicle that during
the reign of Abou Faris in 1337, a war
broke out l)etween that jirince and the
Amir of I$6ne, when the former juir-
sued his enemy <is far as Trboursnuk,
irhkh in situated in the countri/ of the
llancncha at the source of the Mcdjcrda.
In front of the ruined city, whidi
had a northern as|(ect, is an amjihi-
theatre of hills, the open side of which
is to the E. In this rises the famous
river Mcdjcrda (Ikgradas of tlie
234
uouTii; 18. TO aL\-bkii>a
A Igeria
aiirii'iits), liiTC a iiuu'u tlircml of water.
IL IIdw.s south oi , Souk- Ah I (IS, enters tlio
rei^'eucy of Tunis, and falls into the sea
near Utiea.
Thron<;h the fertile aiul pieturesque
valley of the Jledjerda, the hills en-
(dosinf^ which commence to slope up-
wards almost from the river's bank,
lies the way to Souk-Ahras, which is
29 kil. N.E. of Khamisa (see p. 300).
ROUTE 18.
To Ain-Beida.
A railway is in course of construction
(1889) from the main line at Oidad
Puihrnoun (p. 163), but until that is
finished, the traveller must either
go by diligence from Oucd Zenati (p.
237) or follow the longer road, which
is pretty much the same as that wdiich
will be adopted by the railway. This
we give, but the distances are measured
from Constantine.
38 kil. Ruins of Signs, an ancient
and celebrated city, memorable as the
residence, during various ejiochs, of
several Numidiau kings. The destruc-
tion of this place appears to have been
very violent, and little remains save
the foundations of a few buildings and
a considerable necropolis. On the
rocky plateau, opposite and S.W. of
the latter, are many so-called mega-
lithic remains, dolmeus, cromlechs,
menhirs, etc. Almost everywhere in
Algeria these are found in the vicinity
of important Roman positions, and
here one was opened by M. Thomas in
1876, and found to contain amongst
other things a bronze coin of the reign
of Domitiau ; this proves beyond all
doubt that whatever the age of other
p)-chisto?-ic monuments may be, this
one at least is well within the historic
era. Signs was one of the 30 free cities
mentioned by Procopius.
At about 14 kil. N.E., on a detached
mamelon, are the remains of a Roman
or Byzantine fortress at Aln-d-Bonij
OVell of the Fort). The walls and
citadel are very perfect. (TJ'urris
Cicsaris. )
39 kil. Bordj Zikri. Maison do
conimandemcnt, occujjied by the Kaid
of Sefjnia. Here for 3 months m the
year the stallions of the remount are
stationed. There is a poor wayside
auhcrge.
After leaving this the road enters
the plain of Jiahira-et- To (cila (tha long
plain) ; long, as its name implies, level,
and richly cultivated.
59 kil. A'in-Fakruun. A large cara-
vanserai where the traveller can lodge
and sleep in tolerable comfort. 2600
ft. above the sea. A small village was
created here in 1879.
The road still continues over ex-
tensive treeless plains, devoid of all
permanent habitations, though Arab
tents begin to be numerous.
71 kil. A'in-Moulaher. Auberge and
farm wdiere the diligence stops for
breakfast. There is an abundant
water supply, which has enabled the
proprietor to create a little oasis of
trees. Roman ruins in the neighbour-
hood.
89 kil. Omm-cl-Boaghi. Govern-
ment caravanserai, on the slope of a
hill which forms the N.E. boundary
of the valley. Here one can lodge if
necessary. There is a small fort built
of Roman materials above the cara-
vanserai ; the onl}' other classical
association connected with the place
is that of the Augean stable, which it
closely resembles.
95 kil. The ruins of a Roman station.
101 kil. Bir Bogda. An isolated
well surmounted by a masonry super-
structure. Near it is a dolmen con-
sisting of two flat stones, each 3 metres
long, 1 metre broad and 25 cent, thick,
supported at the angles by four verti-
cal stoues 50 cent, square. About 65
metres to the E. three upright stones
indicate the position of another, now
destroyed.
115 kil. Ain-Beida. 3936 ft. above
the sea. 2115 inhabitants. The name
of the place means whih\fountai)i, from
a source which yields 400 litres of water
per minute. There is a fairly comfort-
able inn here.
Sert. II
UOUTE 18. KAHR HAUHAI
235
Chiuf town of the Harada trilie.
The country round produces grain in
immense (luantities. The cattle and
wool of the liaracta are also cele-
brated.
At Djchel Riyhis, 40 kil. W. of
Ai'n - Bcida, are some ancient copper
mines worked by the Romans, both
a cicl ouvcrt and by means of galleries.
The ore yields 14 per cent of pure
metal.
At Djchel Ilamiuiat, 42 kil. W.N.W.
of Ain-lieida, is a mine of oxide of anti-
mony, one of the only two jilaces in
the world where this mineral has been
found. It is usually met with as a
sulphide.
At Djrhcl Garca, 48 kil., a mine of
argentiferous lead ore exists ; and at
Djebel Tafrent, 49 kil. to the S., is
found suljihate of iron.
Before the troubles of 1852 the only
buildings at Ain-Beida were the three
Bordjes, now occupied by the Ad-
ministrator, the garrison, and the
remount. The Haractas were then
the most insubordinate tribe in the
country, and Ijesieged the forts, which
were m a precarious position, wlien
they were relieved by a few hundred
horsemen under Ali hil Arabi, who
was rewarded for his devotion by being
made Kaid, which ofliee he still holds.
Houses began gradually to surround
tlie forts, the Jews scattered amongst
the tribes settled under its walls, and
soon a prosperous town sprang u}).
The Arabs in this circle are much
more superstitious than religious. They
know hardly anything of their religion
except a few outward ol)servances which
tlicy have learnt liy tradition. On the
(ttlier liand, great numbers of them are
aliiliated to the various religious con-
fraternities or kliouans, especially to
tliat of Sidi Mohammed ben Abd-er-
Kaliman bou Koberain. The writer
had a curious instance of the indiffer-
ence of the Kaid of Ain-Beida to one
of the most rigidly observed Jloham-
medan customs, tlie seclusion of women.
At an entertainment given to him ami
liis family, the married and unmarried
daughters of the Kaid were jiresent,
and sat with him as in European
society.
This may be explained by the large
admixture of Berber l)looil amongst
them, their patois — the Chuuuia —
being unmistakably a dialect of that
language.
The circle of Ain-Beida is full of
Eoman remains, 9. In the town arc
many vaults, which probably served a.s
Sllijs for storing gi-ain ; one in the Cure's
Iiouse is still i)erfect, and has its atone
door in working order.
[From Ain-Beida there is a .service
of diligences to Ain-Khenchla, distant
108 kil. and 95 kil. IVom lialna.
The road pa.sses close to the ruins of
Kasr Baghai, 6, the ancient Bagaia, a
city which liad already attained consid-
erable importance during the Imperial
era, as is proved by numerous inscrip-
tions. During the time of St. August-
ine it was one of the African cities
in which Christianity had attained the
most progress. Several councils were
held here ; but religious dis,sensions
soon began to jaoduce their destructive
effect ; the Donatists burnt the Biusilica
and committed the sacred books to the
flames. Solomon was charged by Jus-
tinian to re-est;iblish order in Afiica.
One of his cajjtains, Gantharis, sent to
operate in Jlount Ann's, established
his camp at Bagaia ; I'locopius says
that it was then in ruins. It is )>rob-
able that the Byzantines then built or
restored the immen.se fortification, the
trace of which is still entire. It con-
sists of an irregular quadrilateral figure,
the .sides varying in length from 770 to
1227 feet, with round towers at three
of the angles, and a -sipiare one at the
fourth. The wall is further strength-
ened at irregular distances l>y .square
salient towers. On the N.W. side is a
second enclosure or citadel ; near the
W. angle are the remains of a Muham-
medaii mosque, decorated with ancient
ccdiimns still standing.
The identity of Ain-Khenchla witli
tlie ancient Jlascula admits of no doubt ;
its distance from known point-s would
prove the fact, even hail not an inscrip-
tion been found recording tiiat, about
A. 1). 370, rulilius Caciiia Albinus re-
built the town which before liail been
destroyed.
2.'} (J
HOITK ID. OONHTANTINK TO liuNK
Ahf
This iiili resting iii.sci'iptiou lias thus
liccii irstorc'd : —
Pro siiliiiiiloru fcliciiim s;iculiiiiiiri (luiiiiiio-
rum nostnirum Valciitiiiiaiii ct ViileiiUs sem-
jicr An^ustoiniii . . . atu; . . . ve . . . oiiiiii
.Masciihi; ... a fuiiUaincntis construxit (at<iuc
ilcilicavit) riiblilius Cacioiiius Cacciiia Al-
liiniis vir clari.ssiiims consularis sexfasculis
I>rc)viiici;c Numiiliti; Constantino.
Miiscnila is more famous in ecclesiast-
ical than in profane history. Several
of its iiilialiitauts are celebrated in
Roman inartyrology, especially Archini-
nuis, who was condemned to death by
Gcnseric. Its bishop, Clarus, attended
the Council of Carthage in a.d. 255.
Another, Donatus, ceded to the perse-
cutions of Floras, proconsul of the
district, and revealed the place where
the holy books had been concealed. He
was the first of the recreant bishops
who was interrogated by Secundus
Tigisitanus on the subject, before the
Council of Cirta in 305. Another
bishop, Jauuarius, was exiled by Hun-
eric in 494, and a second of the same
name assisted at the Council of Car-
thage in 525.
The value of Mascula as a strategic
position, situated, as it is, in a wide and
fertile plain just beyond the northern
slopes of the Aures mountains, has
always been recognised. It was probably
here that Solomon placed his camp
during his second expedition, and there
is reason to believe that it is the Mnlich,
the scene of one of the battles of Sidi
Okba.
After the first Arab invasion it
was still inhabited. El-Adouani thus
alludes to it: — "At the foot of the
mountains of Amanora there are three
cities, Baghai, Khenchla, and Guessas,
inhabited by Christians, each one sur-
rounded by vast gardens, irrigated
by the waters descending from Dj.
Mahmel."
Khenchla has now been created an
European centre of colonisation and
hief place of a circle. Colonists have
been attracted to the spot not only by
its line climate, resembling very much
that of Provence, but by concessions of
from 25 to 40 hectares of land given by
the State. The great fertility of the
soil, its proximity to vast forests, and
the mineral riches of its mountains,
ought to secure the pios])ority of this
line though distant .settlement.
To these ailvantages may be added
its position, midway between liatna and
Tebes.sa, and in clo.sc ])roxiniityto the
openings of the various valleys which
traverse the Aures. It was made the
centre for supplying the armies of
General Herbillon in 1847, and of Gene-
•ral St. Arnaud in 1850, in their expe-
ditions against the Ncmemchas. ]
ROUTE 19.
Constantine to Bone by Railway.
This line, from Khroub onwards,
belongs to the Compugnie clcs Chcmins
lie Fer cle Bone a Guchna ct Prolonge-
■mcjit; between Constantine and Khroub,
to the Compagnie cle Vest Algerien.
Constantine to Khroub, see p. 163.
■2
o ^
S 2
S-o
J^
|3
Names of Stations.
X —
5 =
5 ?
iz
*"
Khroub
203
is
Bou-Nouara .
193
27
Ain-Abid
185
42
Ain-ltegaJa .
ISO
63
Oued Zenati .
174
09
Bordj Sabath
162
SO
Thaya ....
156
95
H. Meskoutin
148
101
Medjez Amar
135
115
GUEI.MA
123
119
Millesimo
119
123
Petit ....
115
135
Nador
101
148
Ddvivier, bif. S. Alims.
95
156
0. Frai-ah
SO
102
Saint-Joseph .
69
174
Ban-al ....
53
ISO
Mondovi
42
185
Randon ....
27
193
Duzerville
15
203
Bone ....
1 5 kil. Bou-Nouara. A small village
constructed by the Compagnie Geniral
Algerienne (see p. 108). On the S.W.
slopes of Djcbel Mazala, about 2 kil.
N. of the village, is a megalithic
S(ct. II
IIOUTK 19. DJEBEF- TFIAY.V
237
necropolis, containing monuments of
many varieties ; the general type is
a dolmen composed of four vertical
blocks and a table, forming a rectang-
ular chamber, the whole surrounded
by a circle of stones. '
27 kil. Aln-Ahid. Another of the
same society's villages.
42 kil. Ahi-llcijadn. A third village
belonging to the same society, in a
very unhealthy .situation. The line
licnceforth follows the course of the
()((C(l Zciutli, which, after its junction
with the Oued Chtrf, becomes the Scy-
buusc.
53 kil. Oued Zex.vti. A rather im-
portant village. In this district are
.situated 83,000 of the 100,000 hectares
of land so lavishly granted by the
Empire to the Sociitt (now Compngnic)
General Ah/erienne.
There is a service of diligences daily
to Ain-Bcida.
69 kil. Burdj Sahath. A very un-
healthy district ; no village.
80 kil. Thaya. A most interesting
excursion may be made froju this place
to the great Cave of Djebel Thaya.
It may easily be done from Hamiiiani
•Meskoutin in a single day. Take the
6.24 A.M. train, which arrives at Thaya
at 7.10 A.M. Arrangements should
])reviously have been made at the buffet
for mules ; the distance from the station
is only 6 kil. The traveller should not
fail to take food with him, and above
all a supply of l)lue and red liglits with
which to illuminate tlie cave. He can
return to Ilammam Meskoutin by the
train passing Thaya at 7.25 p.m.
All the necessary arrangements can
be made by the proprietor of the hotel.
The o])ening of the cave is on the
N.W. side of the mountain, which is
composed of a compact limestone. The
entrance- passage is spacious, being in no
])lace less than 3 metres in height.
The exti'rior ])ortion opens out like a
hall, well liglitcd, dry, and adorned
with beautiful tufts of ivy-leaved and
other ferns. On the sides are carved
numerous Roman inscriptions, so much
effaced liy time as to bo hardly legible.
M. Ikniiguignat, who was one of tlie
fir.st to ex])lore this cave, lias jiublished
an elaborate but rather fanciful descrip-
tion of it. lie counted 53 inscriptions
on the left, 8 on the right, and 3 on the
roof. Nearly all begin with the letters
B. A.s. ; one, better preserved than tlie
others, has the words itAcxd. Avo.
SAC, from which it is inferred that
this cavern was dedicated to the god
Bacax ; it is further gathered from
the inscriptions, that every year the
magistrates of Tililis (Announa) came,
with much ceremony, on a pilgrimage
to Thaya, to offer a sacrifice to the god
of the cavern. The inscrijitions contain
the names of consuls who were elected
under the Emperors Caracalla and Geta,
A.D. 211, and from this date they are
mentioned up to A.D. 268. The follow-
ing is one of them : —
BACCACI . AVfl . SAC .
GENTIASO . BT . BA.SS
O . COS. VH . Vl . MAIAS
C. IVLIVS . KRONTO
NIANV.S . ET . nodes
titivs . pRvdes
iiAyg . THIS.
which may thus be rendered: — "In
the year of the Consuls (Jentianus an<l
r.assus (A.D. 211), the 7th of the Ides
of May, Gains .lulius Krontinianus and
-Modestinus, ilagistrates of Thiliilis,
oU'ered sacrifice to the august Uacax."
One is commemorative of two brothers
who strayed into the cavern and were
lost there — an accident which might
very easily hap]icn at the present day,
and which probably would happen to any
one entering without experienced Arab
guides. The god Uacax is unknown to
history ; probably he was one of the
local deities adopted by the Romans.
On leaving the pas.sage containing
the inscrii>tions the cave descends at
an angle of not less than 45 degrees ;
the ground is covered with a thick
layer of loose stones, which roll down
with alarming velocity at almost every
step made in advance. Great care
should be taken to keep well to the
right hand, as on the left there is an
aby.ss which has never been exi>lored,
but which must be of great depth, and
nearly vertical.
From the foot of this ramp the cave
extends, with many accidents of level,
to nearly three-(|uartei-s of a mile in
length and a thousand feet in vertical
depth. The descent is difficult, and
238
ROUTE 19. CONSTANTINO TO BONE
Algeria
even (lanr,'crons tlirougliout, as deep
Iiolcs occur at mniieious jilaces, in
wliich an unwary cxjilorer niij,'lit easily
l)c en.i^'ulfed. Sometimes he has to
(hop down steep preci[)ices, l)y the aid
of proji'cting stalagmites, at otliers to
slide down muddy gradients, now to
creep tln-ongh small holes and narrow
passages, and again to wade tlirougli
pools of liquid mud. He has to traverse
vast lialls, intricate labyrinths, passages
and chambers of every size and form.
Gi'oves of stalactites and stalagmites
adorn the sides, while the lofty vaults
are hung with the most exquisite fret-
work, like the roof of a Gothic cathe-
dral. The finest of all is the great
domed chamber, at the bottom, which
gives to the cave its Arab name, Ghar
el-Djamiia (Cave of the ilosque) ; it is
an immense, nearly circular cavity,
with domed roof ; from the ground rise
magnificent stalagmites, like the trunks
of palm trees, and in the centre is a
huge block of stone, which M. Bour-
guignat imagines to have been an altar
to Ijacax.
In visiting this cave a few precau-
tions are absolutely necessary.
1. The traveller should never attempt
to penetrate without Arab guides.
2. He should have an abundant
supply of candles, matches and blue
lights, or magnesium ^vire.
3. He should have canvas shoes with
hempen soles to prevent himself from
slipping, and he should only wear such
clothes as he is content to abandon
afterwards.
95 kil. Hammam Meskoutin.
This is a place at which no traveller in
Algeria, who can spare the time, should
fail to spend a few days, as, in addition
to the wonderful natural phenomena of
the place itself, there are several most
interesting excursions to be made.
Hamman Meskoutin, or tlie Accursed
Baths, were known to the Romans
under the name of Aqucr Tibilitinrr,
so called from the neighbouring town
of Tibilis, afterwards Announa. Some
of the Roman baths cut out of the
rock are still used by the hospital
]>atients ; but the largest one is higher
up the stream, which has since changed
its course, owing to the mass of de-
posit having givadually raised the sur-
face of the rock over which it then
flowed. The temjierature of tlie water
is no less than 203° Fahr. ! wliich,
taking into consideration the height
of the soui'ce above the sea -level, is
just about boiling-water heat; and
is only surpassed by the Geysers in
Iceland and Las Trincheras in South
America, the former of which rises
at 208°, and the latter at 206° tem-
l)eraturc.
The whole .scene is most extraordi-
nary, and the mass of still waterfall
is a sight never to be forgotten.
The surface of the rock where the
waters rise is everywhere thickly
encrusted with carbonate of lime as
white as marlile. On issuing from the
earth they fall in a succession of little
cascades into a richly Avooded glen,
shut in by hills, and by the stream
below the natives may lie seen cooking
their provisions and washing their
clothes in the hot water. Above the
cascades are numerous little natural
basins of a creamy-white colour, bub-
bling over with boiling water. The
rock over which the water falls is rough
and uneven, owing to the thick cal-
careous deposit, and presents the ap-
pearance of a petrified rapid.
Above and below the sources are
some enormous cones, the largest of
which is about 11 metres high and 12
in circumference. These were evi-
dently deposited by the action of the
waters overflowing the edges of the
basins wherein they rose, which were
thus gradually raised higher and higher,
until the spring had no longer force
sufficient to run over, but was obliged
to find another outlet.
Earth has gradually collected on
some of them, in which shrubs and
flowers have sown themselves, giving
the whole the appearance of huge
flower-pots. Many of them have been
split as if by earthquakes.
Clouds of dense steam rise from the
falls and from the earth in all directions.
The best view is from below, where,
looking up at the white shining rock
and steaming water, the scene is very
strange, and almost unearthly.
Sect. II
ROUTE 19. ANNOUNA
239
These springs arc extremely efli-
cacious in cases of rheumatism and
nervous or cutaneous diseases, and for
licaling wounds. The volume is very
large, being, from the two principal,
18,0u0 gal. per hour. The carhonate of
lime becomes nearly all ])recipitatcd
as the water cools, and when ([uite cold
it is used for drinking purposes.
About f m. from the hospital are
some other springs, which are ferru-
ginous and suli)hureous. Their tempe-
rature is about 170' Fahr. The usual
mode of apjdication is by means of
ordinary baths ; but douches and va-
pour baths are also employed.
The convenience of being able to
make use of both saline and ferrugi-
710US springs close together, ought to
make Hammam Meskoutin become an
important watering - place ; and cer-
tainly, should this be the case, it will
be able to vie in beauty of situation
with any of the most celebrated baths
of Germany or France.
The only drawback to them is that
during the summer months, from July
to Ottober, the climate is somewhat
feverish ; at other times the traveller
runs no risk whatever.
M. Piesse thus (piotes the Arab legend
which gives its name to the springs : —
"An Arab, rich and powerful, had a
sister, Init finding her too beautiful to
be married to any save himself, he
determined to espouse her, sjiite of the
prohibition of tiie Mohammedan law
and the remonstrances and suppli-
cations of the elders of his tribe, whose
heads he cut oil in front of his tent.
Then commenced tlie usual marriage
festivities, and as the accursed couple
were about to retire, the elements were
set in commotion ; fire came out of
the earth, the water left its beil, and
the thunder pealed forth in a fearful
manner. When tranquillity returned,
the Arab and his sister and every one
connected with the feast were found
petrified, the cones still representing
the actors in this drama."
At a distance of about 1500 metres
from the hotel is a curious care,
containing a .winll lake of icatcr. In
July 1879, after a storm and heavy
rain, a subsitlencc of the soil took
place, which exposed to view an oiien-
ing, giving access by an ea.sy slope to
a cave, at the bottom of which is a
considerable body of the purest and
most limjiid water. As it takt-s a sud-
den turn to the right and becomes lost
to view, it is impossible without a boat
or a raft to ascertain its extent ; the
depth close to the etlge is from 15 to 20
metres. The formation of the rock in
which the cave exists is very sindlar
to that near the hot spring, evidently
a calcareous dejiosit, tinged with rose
colour by oxide of iron. The water is
quite cool, though sometimes a slight
amount of warm vajiour exists in the
cave. The traveller should take candles
and some blue lights with him to illu-
minate the grotto.
[E.rcursions in the Ncighhonrhood.
1. To Roknia, 9. About 12 kil. N. of
the statimi is the Megalithic Necro-
polis of Koknia, covering a sjiace of 5
or 6 kil. in extent. The monuments
have been much destroyed by imlis-
cn-et investigators, but a vast number
still remain entire. Tln/y are small in
size and very clo.se together. The dol-
mens are usually composed of 5 stones,
4 uprights and 1 horizontal slab ; the.se
are usually placed 4 or 5 together in
one general entlosure.
2. To Announa. There is a briiUc
path over the hills which greatly
shortens the distance, but should tlie
traveller prefer to go by carriage he
shouM proceed to the liigh road from
(iuelma to Constantine. At the 84th
kil. he will pass the small hamlet of
St. Charles, and at 86 kil. that of ./tin -
Amara.
Just after pa-ssing the 87th kiloniet-
ric stone, a narrow path to the left
descends a steep ravine, in which (lows
the Oued Announa, and mounts to
the plateau on which stood the Koman
city of Tibilis. The distance in a
direct line is not more than three-
•[uartere of a mile from Aiu- Amara
— by the road it is about a mile and a
half.
The ruins stand on an open platform
scarped on all sides except the S,W.,
where it joins the lower countrrforts of
240
ROUTrO in. CONSTANTIXK TO IJONK
A Igeria
lias cl-Akla. Tin; vii-\v in llic o]!])*)-
sito direction, looking eastward towards
(lUelnia, is extremely line, and these
two considerations, capability of de-
fence and a picturcsijue situation,
appear lierc, as everywhere else in
Algeria, to liavc determined the selec-
tion of tlie site. The ruins are wortliy
of a visit, though by no means in tlie
best style of Roman art. They consist
of a triumphal arch of the Corinthian
order, with a single opening ; on eacli
side are two pilasters, the cajjital of
one only exists ; in front of these were
disengaged columns, which have en-
tii'cly disappeared, as also the whole of
the entablature.
There are the remains also of what
appears to have been another triumphal
arch or one of the city gates, with two
openings of equal size. The piers,
which supported the arches, had a
double Corinthian fluted pilaster em-
bracing each angle, or eight pilasters to
each pier. There is a Christian basilica,
probably of the Byzantine period, and
several other buildings of greater or
less importance, fragments of the city
walls, and frusta of columns lying
about in every direction.]
101 kil. Medjez Amar, now a farm,
formerly a fortified camp built by
General Damremont. After the failure
of the first expedition against Constant-
ine, Ahmed Bey, hoping to surprise
the French, attacked it at the head of
10,000 men on the 10th September
1837. He was repulsed with great
loss ; and the army starting thence on
the 1st of October arrived before Coii-
stantine on the 6th, and took that city
on the 13th.
Here is the junction of the Oued
Zcnati, afterwards 0. Bou-Hamdan,
with the 0. Chcrf ; their united waters
form tlie Scyhousc.
115 kil. Guelma. A modern French
city of 4025 inhab. 1203 ft. above the
sea. It is built on the ruins of the
Roman Kalama, 2 kil. S. of the right
bank of the Seybouse. It is a fortified
place with a citadel, in which are ex-
tensive barracks, hospital and other
military buildings. It is beautifully
situated, the streets well planted with
trees, and charming shad}' walks out-
side the walls.
Kalama is named for the first time
in history by St. Augustine ; its bishop
then was Tossidius, for 40 years the
intimate friend of the saint, and sub-
sequently his biographer. When the
French took possession of it in 1836,
the ruins of the ancient enceinte and
many of the princii)al buildings were,
if not entire, at least traceable. The
French city has been built principally
out of the ancient ruins, and all that
now remains to testify to its ancient
splendour are the remains of the theatre,
fragments of the bath.s, and a number
of inscriptions and sculptured stones in
the public garden.
Amongst these is a remarkably in-
teresting monument, the tombstone of
a young man 29 years of age, who too
confidently hoped that his wife would
have rested beside him. The work is
rude in point of art, but extremely
beautiful in conception. It is a mono-
lith of rose-coloured marble, square in
plan, consisting of a pedestal with cor-
nice, plinth and base, supporting a
crowning part rising on the same plan,
terminating in an architectural feature
which has now disappeared. On the
principal facade the top piece bears a
circular wTcatli enclosing two portrait
busts in relief, that of the man only
being completed, the features of the
woman are not chiselled. The plinth
has a gaiiand suspended from the cor-
nice, below which the smface is divided
vertically for two inscriptions ; that of
the man only is filled up.
T>iis 'Slanibus Sacruvi.
Fl. Kiievilla \ixit Annis viginti novem dicbus
quindecini.
On the left side of the plinth is a
folding door just shutting, symbolical
of the terrestrial home which is being
closed for ever. Above the cornice on
the same side is another one ojjening,
representing the life to come. This is
confirmed by the opposite side, which
bears on the plinth the figure of a
winged child Axith reversed flambeau,
while above it is a cock crowing, to
represent the opening day. The cock
is standing on a figure resembling a
Sed. II
llOUTK 19. (iUKI.MA
241
loop ; it iii.iy pos.silily be iiitfinK-d lor
a serpent, tlie eiiililuiu of iminoitality.
The tlie.itre is close to the ^'lain
market: tlie steps arc still toleraliiy
])erleet, as is the wall of the buiMiiif^
arounil them, and the eutraneus at
each side ; but all in front of this semi-
circle, inclu<linff the prosceiiiiini, has
disappeared. It was of considerable
size, and the spectators were able to
enjoy a beautiful view of tlu; mountains
lM)undin,if tlie valley of the Seyl)()Use.
Tlie ruins of the baths are in the
modern citadel : two large arches are
still entire, and the springs of vaults
on each side show that tlie walls in
wliich they are jjierced were united into
a vast hall from which the oilier cham-
bers had entrance. The masonry is
not to be coni[iared in quality to that
of Khamisa, or other ancient cities ; it
is of rubble, partly of stones and partly
of bricks, with only the arches, corner-s,
and bearings of the vaults of cut stone.
Above eacli side of the arches appear
to have been square turrets, the object
of wliich is not apparent. Close to
them were discovered 4 or 5 large
cisterns in a perfect state of preserva-
tion, and near them an abundant
s[iring of fresh water ; this has been
led into the cisterns, and they now
serve to supply the cita<lel.
The ruins of a circular temple were
discoveied in the Kue Mogador, with
an inscriiitiou bearing the name of
Marcus Aurelius (Septiinius Severus).
This has been entirely broken up, and
the ba.ses and capitals of the columns
removed to the public garden above
alluded to.
Thcie is an im|i()i1aiit grain and
cattle market ludd here every Monday.
[At 7 kil. on the old road leading to
Bone is J/ii nimani-L'h'da. A thermal
spring gushing out close to the road,
^yielding 80 litres of water i)er second.
The water is ([uite sweet, and irrigates
all the valley through which it Hows.
This was evidently a favourite ayot with
the Homans, as there are ruins of baths
and other buildings still remaining.
Another excursion may be made to
the top of El-Maouna, the highest peak
in tlie neiglibourhood, about 1000 ft.
high, and distant 15 kil. The ascent
may be made on liorseback. The
scenery is very beautiful, the load
jiasses through forests of oak, and f>n
the summit there is a depression shaped
like an Arab siiddle, in which is a lake
about 1 kil. in diameter. There is a
([uarry of fine rose-coloured marble
here, which was much used by the
Romans of Kalama, and is still worked.]
On leaving Guelma the line descends
the valley of the Seybouse ; the
country is exceedingly picturesiiue and
fertile, woods of olive and other trees
alternating with cultivation and pas-
ture-land. The telegraph poles be-
tween Kliroub and CJuelnia are all of
eucalyptus wood, the first used in the
colony ; they were grown in the neigli-
bourhood of Ain-ilokra, and were from
7 to 9 years old.
119 kil. MiUiaimo. A small village
to the N. of the Hue, between it and
the Seybouse.
123 kil. I'ctil. A small village to
the S. of the line.
1.35 kil. Nador. Is one of the zinc
mines belonging to the well-known
company of La Vidlc MonUninc, but
it is not a very important establish-
ment, and was only imrchased to avoid
conqietition.
US kil. DrviviKU. A dirty but
pleasantly situated village, whose single
street is well shadeil with a.sh and beech
trees. It was created in 1857, and
named after a general ; it was erected
into a commune in 1871. It has a
market every Sunday, where a con-
siderable trade is carried on in wool
and cereals.
156 kil. Oucd Frarah.
1 02 kil. ,SV. Joseph.
174 kil. Barred. So called after tlio
general killed near liougie in 1850.
This village was made an agricultural
colony in 1841 and a village in 1S51.
An antique marble column, with an
unsightly va.se -shaped ba.se, lias been
erected "An brave Cajiitaine Mesme,
mort jiour la defen.sc de Hanal, 15 .luin
1852." Tliis brave soldier reposes
under a more suit^ible monument, a
plain iron cross, outside the village
u
242
UOUTK 20. EXCURSION THROUGH KAliYLIA
Algeria
f,'atc. He was killed in licadiiig a
Kortii! of .S|ialiis wliuii the village was
Kunomiik'il liy tlu; iii.surg(3iits of 1852.
180 kil. Mondovi. Close to it is the
]iro})ei'ty of dwhar ban Aoun, once tlie
liroperty of M. Nicolas. It was here
tliat the Irish labourers got out by
Marshal de MacMahon in 1869 were
located. The experiment proved a com-
plete failure ; none of them understood
a woiil of French, they could not work
out of doors during the heat of summer ;
some died, many were sent home. The
last batch of them took passage in a
vessel which was run down by another
on entering the harbour of Bordeaux,
and were drowned. At 10 kil. to the
1''. is the village of Oued Bcsbcs, belong-
ing to the Socieie General Algerienne.
185 kil. PMndon. The village is 7
kil. to the E. It was created a com-
mune in 1868.
193 kil. Du:xrrillc. Named after
General Monk d'Uzer.
The line finally crosses the Oucd Bou
Djcmaa, not far from the ancient
Roman bridge, and arrives at 203 kil.
Bone (see p. 121).
ROUTE 20.
Excursion through the Kabylia of
Djurdjura from Bordj bou-Arre-
redj to the Oued es-Sahel and Fort
National.
Bordj bou-Arroreilj.
Bordj Medjaiia
Bordj Boni
Geliia
Ighil Ali
Akbou .
Ti-tilkouth
Fort National
The above are the distances on the
map ; they b}^ no means represent the
amount of ground to be gone over.
By taking the ordinary railway
route to Fort National (p. 143), the
traveller obtains a splendid glimpse of
Kabylia ; but thoroughly to explore the
country, and to see beyond all doubt
the finest mountain scenery in Algeria,
Kil.
Mile
1:2
lt3
=
7*
10'
(3
13
=
3J
Si
■21
=
13J
Hi
=
10
•2-1
=
13J
he woulil do well to find his way either
from Constantino or Algiers to Bordj
hoii-Arreredj (j). IGO), and commence
his excursion from that point. He
must not .shrink from a slight' amount
of inconvenience ; he must be content
to do without auhcrges, and to make
the journey either on hor.se or on mule
back. The authorities at Bordj will
gladly assist him in obtaining the neces-
saiy animals and guides ; the writer
paid 5 f . a day for his mules. Tents
would greatly conduce to the comfort
of the expedition, especially if it con-
tain ladies ; but the traveller will always
find some place in which to pass the
night, without any very serious incon-
venience, provided he carries his own
bedding.
The first stage of his tour is to Bordj
Medjana, a flourishing village built on
the site of the Castellum Mcdianum
of the Romans, and the ancestral resi-
dence of the celebrated Bach Agha El-
Mokrani, leader of the insurrection of
1871 (see p. 59). The Bordj, which was
built by the Bach Agha, under the dii'ec-
tion of French engineers, was completely
dismantled after the confiscation of his
lands, the outer walls only being re-
tained ; it contains the church, school,
and other communal buildings, and
constitutes a place of refuge to which
the inhabitants of the village may
retreat in case of attack. A beautiful
spring issues from some Roman remains
below the fort, and forms the only
water supply of the village.
From this place a ride of 4 hours
takes the traveller to the fort or block-
house called Bordj Boni, which con-
tains a suite of rooms and stabling, in
which shelter, if nothing more, can be
obtained ; it was built after the last
insurrection, principally for the con-
venience of Government officials visit-
ing the district. There is an excellent
spring at the foot of the mound on^
which the fort is built, and from the
platform around it magnificent views
of the Djurdjui"a range are obtained.
From this to Gelaa is a ride of not
more than an hour and a half, through
the most magnificent mountain scenery.
The road winds up and down steep hills
in a most tortuous manner, sometimes
Sect. II
ROUTE 20, GELAA
243
passing over tlie iiitervciiiiig ridges,
and at others encircling their sides.
On the right hand is a deep al>yss,
beyond which is a mass of hills and
valleys, clothed to tlieir summits with
verdure, resembling a tempestuous sea
suddenly arrested and turned into rock.
On the left the view is more extensive ;
the foreground is as wild, while range
after range of mountains succeed each
other in ever-changing variety of form
and colour, till the extreme distance
is shut in by the majestic snow-cajiped
ridge of Djurdjura. No other peak
can ever depose this from its place as
tlu! monarch of Algerian mountains.
Chellia and Mahmel, in the Aures, may
be higher, but they rise from more ele-
vated ground, and thus lose much of
their grandeur ; wliile for beauty of out-
line and richness of tints, the Djur-
djura range, seen from the south, with
the Oued es-Sahel at its foot, is supe-
rior to them both.
Kaliia — or Gelaa, as it is here pro-
nounced, meaning a fortress in Arabic
— is one of the most pictures([Uely sit-
uated villages in Kabylia. It is Imilt
on the extreme end of a mountain,
more than 3000 ft. above the sea, sur-
rounded on three sides by jn'ccipitous
ravines, through one of which Hows a
trilnitary of the Oued Sellam. The
cliffs descend in a succession of per-
pendicular scarps, separated from each
other by narrow terraces, so as to be
([uite inaccessible. The fourth side,
where the hill rises behind the village,
can only be reached liy a narrow wind-
ing path, which a few resolute men
might defend against an army.
In foimer times this was a city of
refuge for such as wished to escape the
justice or vengeance of the Turks, who
never succeeded in reducing its inhabit-
ants to their sway. Its ])roximity to
the Diban, or Fortes de Fer, itself a strong
position, enabled the 15eni Abbas to
command that pass, and consec|Uently
the route between Algiers and Cmi-
stantine, and tiiey were in a jiosition
to exact a tribute from the Turks as
the price of keeping open this com-
munication.
The village of Gehia is divided into
two portions, each ruled over by a
Sheikh independent of the other. The
lower portion belongs to the Oulad
Aissa, and the ui>j)er to the Oulad
Ilumadoosh. It is the principal place
of tlie IJi-ni Abbas, a once powerful
confederation, extending N. and S.
from beyond the Oued es-Sahel to Boni,
and E. and W. from the river of Gehia
to the Oued Maghir. Tlie villages in
this district are well built, of stone,
roofed with tiles, and very often they
have small enclosures or gardens at-
tached, while the interiors are linished
off with great neatness, and even some
rude idea of decorative art.
The inhabitants of Geliia have little
or no arable land, but they are famous
for the manufacture of bernouses.
The}' make a considerable quantity of
olive oil, and are renowned merchants,
purchasing the carpets and haiks of
tlie S., and selling them at the markets
of Constantine and other great towns.
Uetween the two villages are a num-
l)er of small springs, (piite dry in sum-
mer, so that for several months in the
year the water supply of each village
has to be brought from the valley be-
low. In the upper village is an ancient
mosque, with some wood carving over
the door ; in the cemetery attached is
buried the Bach Agha el-Mokrani.
His body was brought here after the
battle of Oued Soutiat, where he was
killed. It is much to be regretteil that
his tomb should be ipiite unmarked.
The Commandant Superieur of Au-
male, Colonel Trumelet, had the happy
idea of marking the spot where he fell
by a stone bearing this inscription,
" Ici toniba mortellement, frappe par
les balles du 4""'" de Zouaves, le 5 Mai
1871, le Bach Agha de la iMedjana, El-
Hadj Jloiiammed ben el-Hadj Ahmed
el-iMokrani, chef de I'insurrection."
The connection of the Jlokrani family
with Geliia dates from the IGth cen-
tury, when one of the anci'stors, Ben
Ahd-er-Kahman, established a little
prini'ipality here after the exj)ulsion of
the Siianiards from Bougie. The last
of these princes was murdered by his
subjects in A.n. IGOO. Mokrani owned
several houses in tJelaa, anil his brother
was at one time Kaid of the Beni Abbas.
There is a large guest chamber in the
244
KOUTK 20. KXCUHHION TUIlOUOlf KAIJVLIA
Alijciia
uii|iri' villaj^(S ami tlu^ tra\-c'lliT will lie
,s\irc, ol' liospitablc ti'catiiK.'iit from the
Kaiils (ifeithur poilioii, \\\\o arc admir-
able spocimciis of Kaltylo f,'(;iitlemcn.
One oi' the iiio.st interesting sights of
Geliia is the extraordinary method eni-
|iloycil for storing grain — in enormous
baskets ol' alfa grass, 4 to 4^ metres
high and 3 in diameter at the thickest
parts, resembling gigantic bottles witli
the necks knocked oil'. These are raised
about a foot olf the ground, and four or
live of them are placed side by side in a
room. In these vessels, called Zarda, a
reserve sujjjily of corn has been known
to keep good for fifty years.
There is a direct route from, this vil-
lage to Akl)OU, but the traveller would
do well to make a detour in order to
see Ighil Ali, the most considerable
village in the Beni Abbas territory.
After passing through the village the
traveller has to descend a path so steep
and difficult as hardly to be practicable
for mules. On reaching the bottom of
the hill, however, it improves, and soon
the high road between Bordj bou-Arre-
redj and the Oued es-Sahel is reached.
The scenery is still remarkably grand,
but less green than before reaching
Geliia. The ground is poor, schistose,
and only ada]>ted for the cultivation of
fig and olive trees, which constitute the
principal riches of the country.
After about four hours' riding Ighil
Ali is reached ; in fact, there are three
villages placed so close together as to
form but one — Ighil Ali, Tizairt and
Azrou.
The last crowns the hill to the west,
while the two others at its foot are
separated by an inclined plane, in
which is situated the Medressa. It was
one of the favourite ideas of Napoleon
III. to educate the Arab and Kabyle
races in the French language and ideas.
Numerous educational establishments
were organised with this view at Al-
giers, Constantine, Fort National, and
elsewhere, nearly all of which collapsed
with the Empire. Amongst others, a
college was established here at which
Kabyle youths were taught both Arabic
and French. These villages are much
better built and more picturesque than
most others in Kabylia ; many of the
houses have two stories, some even
thiee ; the walls are decorated with
arches and ([uaint holes for ventila-
tion, and not a few have arched colon-
nades.
The general appearance of the whole,
sloping upwards in a jiyrami<lal form,
is not at all unlike many Italian
villages. They used to be celebrated
for the manufacture of arms, but as
that is now a forbidden industry, they
have cxtcniled their manufacture of
bernouses, silver ornaments, etc. ; and
one of them, Tizairt, is celebrated for
its wood - carving. The objects most
usually manufactured are maces, not
unlike those of Gog and Magog, and
spoons and trinkets connected by chains
cut out of a single piece of wood.
After leaving Tizairt the road de-
scends ra})idly, passing numerous pic-
turesquely-situated Kabyle villages, and
enters the Oued es-Sahel, a little below
the ruins of Bordj Tazmalt, a fort de-
stroyed during the last insurrection.
At this point the road enters the gi-eat
valley called Oued es-Sahel, or river of
the coast.
The new village, which bears the old
name, is on the opjjosite side of the
river.
After traversing the rich plains of
the Beni ilelekeuch, the road passes
to the north of the celebrated mound
of Akbou, and soon reaches the village
itself.
Akbou is the ancient Ausum, and
is the country of the well-known Bin
Ali Cherif (see Kte. 13).
From this place the ascent of the
Djurdjura range commences, through
a rich and highlj' cultivated country,
abounding in tig, olive, and ash trees.
The two first are the riches of the
country ; the last {Fraxinus Australis)
is also of great utilit}', as its leaves
afford excellent food for sheep and goats
in summer and autumn when the grass
fails.
At two hours' distance is the village
of Chellata, the chief place in the
country of Illoula, and the ancestral
home of Ben Ali Cherif. There is a
large Zaouia here for the education of
Kabyle youth — one of the most re-
nowned in North Africa — kept up at
Sect. II
ROUTE 20. CHELLATA
245
liis expense ; ami in the enclosure in
front of it are interred the members
of his family. To visit such a holy
place as this in Tunis or Morocco would
be impossible ; in Algeria tlio Moham-
medans no longer dare to exclude Chris-
tians from their mosques ; but it rc-
ijuircs very little penetration to see
that tlieir presence is most distasteful
to them. Beyond this the place is of
no interest, and, like all otiier villages
in the Kaliylia of Djnrdjura, it is ex-
tremely filthy, a marked contrast to
the scruiiulous cleanliness of those on
tlie otlier side of the Oued cs-Sahcl.
The writer and his i)arty pitched their
tents on a grassy slojie, well clear of the
village an(l its evil odours, and were on
tlieir mules before daybreak on the fol-
lowing morning, hoping to see tiie sun
rise from the summit. It took an hour
to reacii the C<i/ dc ChcUata, one of the
passes leading from the Oued cs-Sahel,
across the Djnrdjura range, between
the peaks of Tili-jonen on the left, and
Tizi-bart (5670 ft.) on the right. From
the top of the former there is an un-
equalled view, in some respects finer
than that .from Chellia, inasmuch as
the foreground possesses greater bold-
ness and variety of outline.
Commencing from the west there is
a splendid view of the whole crest of
the Djnrdjura range, witii its two most
conspicuous ])eaks, Azrou-v-Tchonr
(5980 ft.) and Tamgottt Lafln Khadidja
(7543). These are crowned by Welia
or Saints' tombs, favourite places of
pilgrimage with the Kabyles : beyond
these, to the north, is the country of
the lieni Illilten, Fort National, and
the sea in the extreme distance. More
than 50 villages can be counted in this
direction. On the opposite side of the
pass are the mountains of Habor and
Ta-l>abort, crowned with their forests of
Cedar and I'insapo ; that of the I5eni
Abbas completes the jianorama ; while
the ever-present Manielon of Akbou,
surrounded by a great stretch of level
land, thickly covered with olive groves,
occupies the ibreground to tlie soutli.
The cll'ects of liglit anil shade seen here
at sunrise will never be ibrgotten, and
jnoliably, with tiie exception of the
shint ride from 15oni to Geliia, there is
no view to equal it in the whole colony
of Algeria or Regency of Tuni.s.
After passing through this defile tho
roatl descends rapidly towards the Ti-
fdkoutk or river of the Ilcni Illiltni, by
a steep and didicuJt road, but one of
ex(juisite beauty. The whole country
is cultivated with as much care as a
garden. The road is completely over-
shadowed by magnificent ash trees,
while the banks on eitiier side are
covered with ferns, broom, wiUl roses,
and llowers of every colour, and a clear
cold stream ilows at the bottom, fringed
with magnificent wild cherry trees.
After ascending the ojiposite bank
the road passes through the village of
Ti-filkontli, and winds through tho
most d(>lightfnl shady lanes and
orchards, mounting and descending
almost peri)endicular luecipices, crossing
rapid streams, but always passing from
one scene of loveliness to another, till,
after a ride of about two hours from the
stream at the bottom of the valley, tiio
village of Soioiiar is reached. Here
the writer passed the night, and was
entertained by the Amin cl-Omina with
true lierlier hospitality.
Leaving this, a ride of fifteen minutes
brings the traveller to the high road
from Fort Natiomil to the Oued es-
Sahel by the Col de Tirourda, and
close to a house which has been erected
b}' the Engineer Department for its
emploves. The distance hence to the
fort is' 30 kil.
The scenery now changes somewhat
— it never ceases to be exceedingly
grand — and the view of the Djurdjura
range improves as it is seen in full
front, instead of foreshortened from one
end. The admirably engineered, but
l)are and shadeless road, with its regu-
lar curves and gentle gradients, lie-
comes intolerable after tho wild, .sliady
lanes and natural scenery through
which the traveller lias just jiassed ;
and it is not witliout a feeling of relief
that he reaches Fort National (see p.
145), thence to proceed bj' the prosaic
but convenient dilit
ligencc to Ti/i-Ouzou
and so to Algiers,
246
ROUTE 21. ALGIERS TO T^Xfes
Algeria
"ROUTE 21.
Algiers to T^n^s by Orl6ansville.
Algiers to Orleaiisvillo by railway.
Dilii^cnces to Tunes, in connection
with the trains.
Leaving Orlcansville by the Porte
(Ic Teiies the Chelif is crossed by a
light bridge 200 metres in length. Ju.st
beyond, on the right bank of the river,
is La Fcrme, once a military agricnl-
tural establishment of 50 acres in ex-
tent, now an annexe of the commune
of Orlcansville.
From this the route passes over dreary
country, with very scanty vegetation.
Looking back upon Orluansville, the
trees planted in and around that town
are the only ones in sight, the rest of
the plain being sandy and bare, here
and there varied by patches of scrubby
brushwood.
220 kil. Ain-Bcida (the white fount-
ain). A small isolated colony of a
few houses. A little farther may be
seen to the right of the road a koul)ba,
dedicated to Sidi Ahd-cl-Kadcr ; and
to the left that of Sidi Mammar bcn-
Mokhala, and a village called JFarnier,
after a well-known deputy for Algiers,
who died in 1879.
229 kil. Lcs Cinq Pahnicrs, where
there is a small but good inn. The
diligence stops here for dinner going to
Tenes, and for breakfast on returning.
238 kil. Lcs Trois Pahnicrs.
241 kil. Kirba. From this point
the aspect of the country becomes more
varied, the road running for some dis-
tance parallel to the river Allala, which
flows through some pretty valleys and
glens.
On the right of the road are the
ruins of a Roman fort, but the stones
have mostly been made use of by the
g6ni.c for building bridges, etc.
Several ruins of Roman forts exist
along this road. The mountainous
country through which it passes ap-
pears never to have been thoroughly
Romanised, and the population is to
this day in great part Berber.
256 kil. Montcnottc, a prosperous
agricultural village.
At 11 kil. from Montenotte, in the
valley of Ou(^d Allala, and at 7 kil.
from the liigh road, is the village of
Cavaignac, created in 1879. The copper
mines of (Med Allala to the E. are no
longer worked, but another' copper
mine was opened in the spring of 1874
on the hill to the W. The road hence
to old Tenes passes through a wild and
l)eautifid mountain gorge.
Following the works which convey
the water supply of Tenes from the
Oued Allala, not far from old Tenes
the remains of the Roman water-works
can be traced for a few yards, but their
barrage was placed lower down in the
water-course than the modern one.
Large tracts of forest which covered
the mountains on both sides of the
road were burnt by the Arabs in the
summer of 1873.
260 kil. Old Tines. This town, in-
habited entirely by Arabs, is sur-
rounded on three sides by a deep ravine,
at the bottom of which flows the Allala,
and is often called Little Constantine.
It was once a noted pirates' nest.
There are still to be seen in the
rocks on which this town is built large
iron bolts to which the inhabitants
used to fasten their galleys after having
drawn them up the river. To the E. of
the town may be seen the remains of the
old Roman road, which did not follow
the a(iueduct, but ran behind the hill on
the right bank of the river. Two arches
of the bridge which crossed the 0. Allala
are still in a good state of preservation.
The town itself is surrounded by a
ris6 wall flanked at the corner by large
srpiare towers, probably the work of
the Spaniards, now in a very ruinous
condition.
261 kil. Ten^s. Popidation, 2364.
Modern Tenes, founded 1847, is
situated on the site of the Phcenician
town, afterwards the Roman colony of
Cartenna. We learn from Pliny that
it was Colonia Angusti, a colony of the
soldiers of the Second Legion. This
latter fact appears to indicate a war-
like character in the neighliouring
native tribes, and from an inscrip-
tion found here and preserved in the
IMuseum of Algiers, we gather that
these were the Bakoyta mentioned by
Ptoleni}'.
Sect. II
ROUTE 22. MOSTAGANEM
247
The "Itinerary" of Antoninus says
that Cartenna is 63 m. from Ctesarca
(Cherchel), but tliere does not appear
to have been a Roman higlnvay along
the coast. The great road between
the E. and W., and for the most jiart
Roman colonisation, kept in this y)art
of Africa to the great ])lains. Car-
tenna was deserted for okl Tunes by
the Berbers at an unknown but early
period — tradition says on account of
the bleakness of its situation, liefore
the railway from Algiers to Oran was
made, Tenes was the port of tlie central
Chelif plain, and liad a largo exjiort
trade, but it is now a dei^lining town.
The harl)our, about a mile distant, is
an artificial one, similar to tliat at
Algiers, but is open to the west wind.
Outside the town, on the wcstein side,
is a pulilic garden where several Roman
tonibswithinsciiptionsmaybeseen ; one
is that of a soldier of the 2.4th Legion.
In the neighbourhooil are the remains
of several Roman and two Pluenician
wells of considerable size, near w'liich a
number of coins of both nations were
found, also a Tunic inscription, now in
the Mu.seum at Algiers.
ROUTE 22.
Mostaganem to Tiaret by Railway.
■3 to
S-w
■" o
II
Names of Stations.
.si
II
(5
MOSTAOANEM .
l'."7
"e
Prlissier
liU
21
Aiii-Ti'ik'U'a .
17ii
32
Omvl el-Khcir
1(15
47
Mek.ilia ....
150
55
Si(liKlifllab(l) .
M-2
64
IJi'l-lliiccl
133
76
Kki.izank
I'-'l
85
Ouwl KlifUoiiK .
112
95
!Si<li-M()liaMi. brn Aouila
10-'
119
Fortassii
78
134
Djilali-licii-Amar .
63
163
Jli'Clicni-Kfa .
34
173
Sidi-Ali-buii-Aiiiar
24
187
TiiK<lciiipt
10
197
TiAIUCT ....
Tin: line from Mostaf^ncm to Tiaret
was comjdeted in 1889 ; it is divided
into nearl}' e(iual sections by the main
line from Algiers to Oran at Reli/ane.
The ordinary traveller will hardly eare
to make the first half of this journey :
the whole interest of the route, and
it is considerable, is contained in the
soutliirn section.
Mostaganem. 11,342 inhabitants.
Tliere was a maritime town here iu
Roman times, whose harbour disap-
peared during a terrible earthquake,
in the reign of the emperor (iallien.
Under the Moors it was a town of
but little importiinee, but in 151G
it wiis taken from the Sultan of Tlem-
(;en by Aroudj, and was fortified
and made a ))rovineial capital by
his brother, Kheir-ed-diu, shortly
afterwards.
In 15.')8 it was attacked in vain by
the Spaniards. The 16th century was
the period of its greatest prosperity.
It had then a po})ulation of about
40,000, with considerable commerce,
and the rich country round it was
highly cultivated. E.\po.sed to tiic
attacks of Spaniards and Arab.s, and
impoverished by misrule, this pros-
perity was of short duration, and had
long disai)peared when the French took
possession of it in 1833.
It is now the centre of an important
agricultural district, with 17 European
villages, and of a sujierior native
po|)ulation living in stone houses.
The roads arc excellent, the soil is
fertile, and though the rainfall is
small, springs and wells abound, and
water large gardens tilled with fruit
trees, su<-h as ]>omegranate, orange,
apricot, etc. The lig is, however,
almost the only tree in the district on
unirrigated ground. The inhabitants
say the climate is superior to that of
Algiers, and it is at least much drier,
but it lies on a tableland 300 ft. above
the .sea, with very little shelter from
the winds.
A picturesipic and curious Arab town,
called Tijdid, sweejis round Mo.staganem
to the E. in a semicircle, .separated from
it by a fortified wall and the clitl's of the
ravine of the .<•/(« .S'«(//v/, wliose bottom
is occupied by irrigated gardens, from
248
ROUTE 22. MOSTAGANKM TO TIARKT
Algeria
wliirli tli(> wliitc Mooiish liouses rise in
iire;;ular steps.
Tiie most interesting drive within
easy distance is to A in- Bon- Dinar,
13 kil., a French villa_f;e, wliicli lies on
a ridge above the valley of the Chelif,
a few miles from its mouth. Walking
to the slopes just beyond the village,
an extraonlinary view opens suddenly.
The river is seen some 500 ft. below,
winding through the rich valley to the
sea. The Turkish bridge and French
village of Pont de Chelif are visible
higher up the stream. Under the hills
beyond the Chelif are Arab tents and
gardens, surrounded by the prickly
pear. Numerous koubbas and Berber
houses stand out on the opposite
mountains of the Dahra, of which the
most conspicuous is Muntayne Hfmgc,
so called from its red soil and cliffs of
a yet deeper tint.
[A route has been made through the
Dahra, passing Cassaignc and Itcaault.
At 1 kil. from the house of the Agha
of Nclinaria on this road are the caves
of the Oulad Riah, where took place a
tragedy which created a great sensation
in Europe at the time.
In April 1845 commenced the in-
surrection of the Dahra, instigated by
15ou Maza, to quell which a column
was sent under the command of Colonel
(afterwards Marshal) Pelissier.
In June he pursued a body of the
Oulad lliah, who took refuge in some
immense caves, situated in a deep ravine
between two isolated hills.
We feel that only an eye-witness
should narrate what followed. A
Spanish olKceri in the French service,
writing to the Heraldo, states : —
" On the 18th, the column of Colonel
Pelissier left early to besiege the famous
grotto or cavern which we had observed
the day before, situated on the bank of
the Oucd Frcchih.
"After having sent chasseurs in
front of the most accessible openings
of El-Kantara (the ravine above men-
tioned), the troops commenced to cut
wood and to collect straw to light a fire
on the west side, and thus oblige the
1 "L'Afriqne Frangaise," p. 440. P. Chris-
tian. Paris, 1S46.
Arabs to surrender, as any other means
of attack wo>dd have been most san-
guinaiy, and probably fruitless.
"At 10 A.M. they commenced to
throw the faggots from the counter-
fort of Kl-Kantara, but the fire did
not declare itself before noon. During
the evening our tirailleurs approached
nearer, and shut in the openings of
the cave. Nevertheless, one of the
Arabs .succeeded in escaping from the
east side, and seven others gained
the banks of the stream, where they
obtained a supply of water in their
leathern vessels.
"At 1 P.M. the soldiers commenced
to throw faggots at the eastern open-
ing, which this time took fire before
the two openings of the other side, and
by a singular circumstance the wind
blew both the flames and the smoke
into the interior without almost any
escaping outside, so that the soldiers
were able to push the faggots into
the openings of the cavern as into a
furnace.
"It is impossible to describe the
violence of the fire ; the flame rose
above the top of El - Kantara (more
than 60 metres), and dense masses of
smoke swept like a whirlwind before
the entrance of the cavern. They con-
tinued to supply the fire all night, and
only ceased at daybreak. But then the
problem was solved; no further noise
was heard.
"At 4i A.M. I went towards the
cave, with two officers of engineei's, an
officer of artillery, and a detachment of
50 or 60 men of these corps. At the
entrance were found dead animals,
already in a state of putrefaction ; the
door was reached through a mass of
cinders and dust a foot in depth, and
then we penetrated into a great cavity
of about 30 paces in length. Nothing
can give an idea of the horrible spec-
tacle which presented itself in the
cavern. All the bodies were naked,
in positions which indicated the con-
vulsions which the)" had suffered before
death. What caused most horror was
to see infants at the breast lying
amongst the debris of sheep, sacks of
beans, etc.
"The number of corpses amounted
Sect. II
nODTE 22. CAVES OF ODLAD RIAH
249
to 800 or 1000. Tlie Colonel would
not believe our report, and sent other
soldiers to count the dead. They took
about 600 out of the cave, without
counting those entassis Ics itns sur Ics
aittrcs connnc unc sortc dc hoidllic
humainc, and the infants at the breast,
who were nearly all concealed below
the clothes of their mothers. The
Colonel testified all the horror which
he felt at this frightful spectacle, and
princijially dreaded the attacks of the
journals, which could not fail to criti-
cise so deplorable an act."
It is not fair to (juote this, without
quoting also the ju.stitication of the act
which appeared in the Akhhar.
"In order that the public may be
able to appreciate these sad events, it
ought to understand how important
it was 2)our la politique ct 2}our I'/iu-
'nio.nitt to destroy the confidence which
the population of the Dahra and of
many other places had in the caves.
. . . . Colonel Peli.ssier invested
tlicni, an operation which cost several
lives, Arabs and French. When the
investment was conqdete, he tried to
jiarley w'ith them by means of the
Arabs in his camp : they lircd on his
parlcmcntaires, and one of them was
killed. Nevertheless, by persistence,
ho succeeded in opening negotiations,
which lasted all day, witliout result.
The Oulad Riah always replied, ' Let
the French camp retire ; we shall come
out and submit ourselves.' It was in
vain that repeated promises were made
to respect their persons and property,
to consider none prisoners of war, but
only to disarm them. From time to
time they were informed that com-
bustibles were collected, and that they
should be warmed if they did not finish.
Delay succeeded delay till the night
arriveil." After passing in review the
lirol)able con.secpiences of retiring from
tiu! attack, the narrative continues :
" He decided on employing the means
which had been recommended to him
by the Governor-General ;" with what
success we have already seen.
The caves are still exactly in the
condition in whidi they were then
left, and no Arab can be induced to
enter them.]
About 3 kil. from Mostaganem is
Mazagian.
Mnmcjran, celebrated as the place
first attacked by Abd-el-Kadcr, after
the rujiture of the treaty of the Tafna
of 1837. Hut Mazagian is most famed
for its having in 1840, with a garrison
of no more than 123 men, under Captain
Lelievre, repulsed the proloiige<l a.s.sault
of a great body of Arabs under Mustapha
ben-Tami, caliidi of Mascara. A column
has liecn erected to conimemorate this
feat, which is recorded by an inscrip-
tion. The church was also built in
commemoration of the same event.
6 kil. Pelissier.
21 kil. Ain-Tedeles.
Two uninteresting French villages.
4 kil. to the E. is Btllii-ue, formerly
called Sou/: cl-Mitou, and beyond there
is no European colonisation whatever
in the country till wc reach Keli/ane ;
the line passes over red sandy ground,
low hills covered with a forest of
thuya, and subseipiently the wide i)lains
of the Mina. The various stations
32 kil. Oucd cl-Klicir.
47 kil. Mckalia.
55 kil. Sidi-KhcltaJ).
64 kil. Bcl-Haccl.
76 kil. licUzdHC, see p. 176.
Ik^yond this, after ])assing the culti-
vated land of Helizanc, the line enters
the valley of the Mina, one of the most
considerable of Algerian rivers, taking
its rise in the district S. of Tiaret. It
is very sinuous in its course, and gener-
ally flows in a deep bed ; water-courses,
dry for the most part of the year, cut
up the valley deeply on each side, and
furnish their tribute to the main stream
during rainy weather.
85 kil. Ourd KhdloiKj.
95 kil. Sidi-Miihfimntt'd ticti Aouda ;
the tomb of this local saint is in an
Arab village. On a remarkable i)eak
behind it is a koublia in honour of Sidi
Alid-el-Kader el-Djailani, one of many
which are seen all over the country,
generally in the most jiromincnt posi-
tions. Up to this point the ground
has been very arid ; beyond, richer
vegetation and Arab cultivation is .seen,
and when the writer pa.ssed (in March)
tlie whole country was covered with
250
ROUTE 22. MOSTAGANEM TO TIARET
A Igeria
wliat sconied tlie richest mosaic of wild
llowers of ever-changing colour.
119 kil. Forlassa. A European
village 2 kil. to the W., on the road to
Mascara. Roman ruins to the E. of
line.
134 kil. Djilali-ben-Amar.
146 kil. Note here the peculiar con-
formation of the rock, which explains
how so many huge slabs were used in
monuments similar to those of Alechcra-
Sfa. It is disposed in strata, broken
up into more or less isolated masses,
and the strata frequently separated
from each other by layers of earth. It
is sometimes diflicult to decide, on a
cursory examination, whether these are
natural masses of slabs piled one on the
other, or megalithic constructions.
163 kil. Mechera-Sfa. This is the
station for the wonderful megalithic
monuments called Souama (the mina-
rets) by the Arabs. The best way to
see tliem is to make a picnic from
Tiaret, come here by the morning
train, and return by the evening one.
It will be easy to hire horses or mules
at the station, especially if the traveller
orders them on going to Tiaret.
They are distant about 7 kil. from
the station, on the left bank of the
Mina, which has dug itself a deep
rocky bed, and here encloses a penin-
sula, surrounded on three sides by the
river, with steep and sometimes pre-
cipitous clifls.
The name Mechc'ra-Sfa signifies Ford
of the fiat Stones. The whole promont-
ory is of the construction which we
have mentioned above ; huge layers
of stone of varying thicknesses, natural
monoliths S(|uared and dressed by
nature, readj' to serve as roofs for
chambers dug out in the softer strata
below them, or to be transported for
use elsewhere.
Immediately on crossing the ford of
the Mina we come upon what was un-
doubtedly a cemetery, but one which
probably served from very early
Numidian till quite late Christian
times. The tombs are generally build-
ings made of large naturally squared
stones roofed in with immense mono-
liths, and now open towards the river.
They probably were at one time com-
pletely enclosed, but the stones forming
the front walls have either been wa.shed
down the hillside by rains, or thrown
down by excavators in .search of trea-
sure or antiquities. One of them is
still tolerably entire. It has a front
wall of large squared stones in which
is a small entrance ; the roof is sup-
ported by a rough pillar. On the
walls are three rude sculptures in relief,
which have been thought to represent
the Christian symbols of a fish, a dove,
and a lamp.
Sometimes advantage has been taken
of the rock itself to form one or more
sides or even the roof of the building,
and in nearly every instance the floor
has been excavated in the soil.
There are several tombstones un-
doubtedly of Roman origin ; one bears a
Latin inscription between two rose-like
ornaments. It begins with the usual
formula, D.M.S., but this is no proof
that it was pre-Christian. The Chris-
tians, not to offend too much the
])rejudices of the pagans, adopted this
commencement, only instead of under-
standing by it " Diis raanibus sacrum,"
they understood it to mean "Deo
magno sacrum."
Beyond this necropolis the entire
summit of the hill has been converted
into a stronghold divided off into three
portions by cross walls, all of large but
not gigantic stones, which bear no
appearance of having been even hammer
dressed. There are here and there a
number of drinking troughs hollowed
out of single blocks, but with this
exception there is no trace of cutting.
The whole interior of the place is
covered with ruins of houses of the
same rude construction — no trace of
architecture or luxury of anj' kind. M.
de la Blanchere considers that this must
have been a Christian citj', and specu-
lates as to what was the name of its
bishop.
It may have been so, or perhaps only
a fortified position or oppidum destined
to receive the inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring disti-icts in time of war or
danger. The megalithic tombs below
were probably those of important person-
ages ; they are not numerous enough to
indicate that they were the ordinary
Sect. II
ROUTE 22. TIARET
251
sepulchres of a city. On the platean
opposite, above tlie right hank of tlie
river, there are also a number of
megalithic tombs, of tlie dolmen type,
which were crowned by tumuli of eartli.
187 kil. Tar/dcmpt, or Tahlcmt.
Best known as the head([uarters and
arsenal of Abd-el-Kader in tlie days of
his j)ower. It was destroyed in 181].
The hillside to the E. is covered with
ruins of rough stone buildings ; on a
mamelon to the W. is the ruined house
wliich . the Emir himself occupied.
Takdemt was at one time a I'oinan
station of some importance, perhajis
Gadaum, and here Abd-er-Rahman
founded the Capital of the Ibadite
emi)ire in A.n. 7(il.
197 kil. Tiaret. 3552 ft. above the
sea. This is supposed to occu]>y the site
of the Roman station TiiKjudia. Ibn
Khaldoun mentions it under the name
of Tahcrt, and records that it was one
of the places which olfered a formidal)le
resistance to Sidi Okba on his march to
Tangier. An Arab town followed, and
tlie present one was built by (Jeneial
Lanioriciere in 1842. It was originally
all contained within a fort, built on the
lower slopes of Djrbcl Gunzuiil ; but as
this left no room for extension, a new
town has sprung up in the valley below,
and on the sIojjc of the opposite hill,
wliich is crowned by a negro village.
In tlie former are the troops, the
merchants more especially depending
ui)on them, and the C'oniiiiandant
Superieur, who governs the Jlilitary
Commune of Aflon in the south ; while
in the latter one are the civil establisli-
iiicnts and inhabitants presideil over by
the Administnttcur of the Coniminic
Mi.r/r, and the Malre of the town.
There is aOovia'nment stud-farm and
a Sniala of Spahis near the town, to
the E. The whole country round is
covered with Roman ruins. The travel-
ler must not, however, expect stately
buildings like the triumphal arch ami
Forum of Timegad, or the quadrilrontal
arch, temjile, and IJasiliea of Tcliussa —
all the ruins here are devoid of archi-
tectural merit : he will not even find cut
stones, marble ornaments, or other
objects which distinguished the Roman
style. Nothing lias been overthrown
and destroyed by the hand of man ; licre
buildings have fallen down by the action
of time and weather ; but their very
number ami extent prove how complete
was the Roman occui)ation of the
country, and how highly the land must
have been cultivated by them, and no
doubt also by the native Numidian.
Roman influence here had little to do
with luxury or art, but was eminently
favourable to agriculture.
Xothing is more surprising when pass-
ing through the rich valley traversed by
the railway than to note the utter dis-
proportion between the extent of culti-
vable land and the present number of
inhabitants it supports. Owing to the
lazy and unthrifty habits of the Arab,
who will always ]ilough round a thistle
rather tiian root it up, it takes a greater
extent of land to maintain him in
misery than it would do to make an
European family rich and jirosperous.
So far there is little apjiearance of any
European colonisation in the country,
but the ]iowerful humanising agency
of the railway will no doulit cliect a
transformation before many years liave
elap.sed. The ruins of the past prove
what this may become in the future ;
the Commune Mixte of Tiaret alone
contains nearly one hundred jilaces
corresponding to Iioiiian cities and vil-
lages sullicicntly important to leave their
vestiges apjiareiit at the present day.
The chief object of the traveller in
coming to Tiaret will doubtless be to
visit the extraordinary monnmenta
called the Djedaxs (walls or buildings in
Arabic). This can be done in one long
day. Take a carriage and drive about
3.T kil. on the road to Fren<la, and when
ojiposite the lirst or most eastern of the
Djedars, which is clearly seen from the
road, turn into the lields and drive
straight to the foot of the isolated jx-ak
on which it is situatetl. As there is no
water here send the carriage on to a
spring called Ain-dhorab, and having
inspected the first three l)jedars rejoin
it on foot, and so return to 'I'iaret.
The traveller will have only about 3
kil. to walk. Should lie not be satis-
fied with this group and «lesirc to yisit
the other as well, it can best l>e done
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Restoration of A.
&d. II
ROUTE 22. TIARET
253
by sending a horse on the day lieforu
and riding to it.
The Djedars are built in two distinct
groui)s between Tiaret and Frenda.
Tlie fust consists ot" three monuments
on three separate Ijut contiguous |)eai<s
of Djchcl-LaJjdar (liill of the Djedars) ;
the second is at some distance to the
W., at Ternatcn, at a place called
Koudiat Ueruoui, ; each is distinctly
soon from the other.
The general form of all three monu-
ments is tlie same — a rectangular or
square podium surmounted by a pyra-
mid. In this respect they diller from
the older and finer buildings of the
same kind, the Tombcaude la Chrctienne
and the Jledrassen, whicli have a round
base crowned by a cone.
Some are in a good state of preserva-
tion, otiiers are in a more or less ruinous
condition ; two of the first group and
one of the second can be easily entered
(candle refiuired).
The disposition of the passages and
sepulchral chambers will be best under-
stood by the woodcuts, whidi we have
borrowed from M. de la lilanchere's
Memoir. A is the first of those on l)j.
Ladjdar ; F, th(! largest, but the least
carefully constructed, is one of those at
Ternaten. They are built of finely-cut
stone ; that marked A is the most in-
structive of all ; it is situated most
conspicuously on an isolated conical
hill ; it is 34 •(JO metres S([uare, the
]todium is 3 "50 metres high, but it is
not easy to determine the original
height of the pyramid above it. The
two portions are separated by a single
string course, which is in fact the first
and ])rojecting step of the pyramid.
This was of cut stone stops, filled in
with a mass of rubble masonry.
The monument was surrounded at a
distance of 8 metres by a wall, forming
a sort of sacred enclosure, probaldy
planted as a garden ; it also was of cut
stone, in sonu' ]i]aces as much as 6
metres high. The courses of masonry
receded about 10 centimetres from
each other, which produced a very
jileasing effect. In front of the east
side was an isolated platform, ascended
l)y a flight of steps, and iirobably con-
nected with the main building by means
of a drawbridge. The door of the pyra-
mid was here, al)ove tlie podium. It Is
])roljable that this ])latform was designed
fur some sort of religious ceremony.
The whole was surrounded by an
outer wall of irregular sha[ie of which
only traces remain.
The chambers are roofed with enor-
mous fiat slabs of stone, and both they
and the pa.s.sages arc sufficiently high
to admit of a person standing erect.
They were generally shut off from each
other by stone doors, which sometimes
descended from above, sometimes opened
like an ordinary door, and sometimes
sli]»i)ed into lateral grooves.
These monuments are mentioned only
by one author, Ibn-er-Kakik, a historian
of the IntJi century. Ibn Khaldoun,
riuoting from him, says that an inscrip-
tion existed on one of them, " I am
Soleiman the Serdeglios (Strategos).
The inhabitants of this city having
revolted, the king sent me against
them. (lod having permitted me to
con(pier them I have cau.sed this monu-
ment to be erected to per]i)etuate my
memory."
The late General Dastugue found an
inscriiition here which lie sent to Baron
de Slane, the learneil translator of Ibn
Khaldoun, who tliought he traced in it
the words Svl'itiian and Slnitajos, thus
identifying it with that (juoted by his
author. This has been muidi disjiuted,
and no one sin</e has ever been able to
find the inscription in question.
It is hardly possible that the cele-
brated I'yzantine general, the successor
of Belisarius, actually constructed any
of these monuments. Tlicy are mani-
festly tombs, and the only question is
that of the date of their construction.
Numerous fragments of rude sculpture
exist in them ; the monogram of Christ,
a lamp, fishes, pigeons — all funereal
emblems ; many siiort insorijitions,
one commencing with the letters
IX DEO X (Christo) ; another, ])ortion
of a dedication to Caracalla, taken from
some other l)uilding.
JI. de la Hlancherc concludes tliat
they vary from the 5th to the 7th cen-
tury ; that they were the sepulchres
of a native dynasty catholic in religion,
which may have been at one time a
254
ROUTE 23. ORAN TO TLEMQEN
A Ujeria
vassal of the Romans Iieforo tlie Vandal
invasion, subse(jUC3ntly allied to the
IJyzantincs, and that it lasted as late
as the Arab invasion, when probalily it
was swept away. The j>iinces men-
tioned by rrocopius were possibly of
this family, Mephanias and his soji
Massonas.
[There is a route from Tiaret to
Frenda, 5C kil., and thence to Mascara,
105 kil. The writer has done the
journey, and lie can conscientiously
advise future travellers to leave it un-
done. The only thing of interest is
the niined fortress of Tagraiiiarct, 9, half
way between Frenda and Mascara.
The vicinity is covered with the founda-
tions of Roman farms, each with its
cistern ; the fortress is rectangular, pro-
tected at the angles by bastions and
with gates defended in the same
manner. To see this, however, it will
be necessary to stay a day here, and
the only place where a traveller can
j)ut up is at the house of a well-known
and very hospitable kaid, Abd-el-Kadir
Boukors.
Between Tiaret and Teniet-el-Alid
there is no road, but the country is
practicable on horseback, it is full of
Roman remains, 9, and is well worthy of
being explored.^]
ROUTE 23.
Oran to Tlemcen.'-
Tlie first part of the road is by train.
Kil. Kil.
Oran .... 70
6 La Seiiia ... 04
20 Misserghine . . 50
31 Bredeali ... 39
36 Bou-Tlelis. . . 3-t
47 Lounnel ... 23
56 Er-R;ihel ... 14
64 Rio Salailo . . 6
70 Ain-Teiuoucbeut
The train runs for the first 6 kil.
along the Algiers-Oran line, as far as
^ See " Une Reconnaissance Arclieolosique
entre Teniet-el-Ahd et Tiaret," par Victor
Waille.— Bull, de la Corres. Afr. 1S4S, Nos.
v., VI.
- It will ordinarily be found more con-
venient to go to Tlemcen by Sidi Bel Abbes
(see pp. 26S, 269, 270), and to return l)y this
route.
La Sc'nia, where that to Ai'n-Temou-
chcnt branches off to the S.W., follow-
ing the course of the old Route
N.itionale.
20 kil. Misscrrjhine. Population,
1370.
About 2 kil. from the Hchlcha of Oran,
a marshy lake 38 kil. lo7ig by 8 broad,
the waters of which are impregnated
with .salt.
Misserghine is one of the prettiest
villages of the de])artment, and the
traveller, if he has time, will be glad
to inspect the orphanage, founded by
Pere Abram, and conducted by the
brothers of Notre Dame de I'Assomp-
tion. It contains about 130 boys and
90 old men, for whom the brothers
receive a small allowance from the
Department. The projierty is highly
cultivated, and produces not only
everything required by the estab-
lishment, but serves as a nursery
garden for the country round. The
fruit, vegetables, wine, and especially
their celebrated Mandarine liqueur, are
sent for sale to Oran. Near it is a
female orphanage conducted by the
Sceurs Trinitaires, containing young
girls and old women.
Mounting a ravine, to the right
of the village, where the road in
spring-time reminds one of an English
country lane, after going about 2 kil.
one arrives at the only ostrich farm in
this province ; it has been pretty suc-
cessful, but the space is too confined
for further extension.
31 kil. Brddeah. Here is a copious
spring from which Oran is supplied
M'ith water ; the pumping engine was
erected in 1880, and furnishes 100,000
cubic metres of waterier diem.
36 kil. Bou-Tlelis ; a prosperous
little town to the W. of the line.
47 kil. Zourmel ; so called after a
general of that name killed at Sebas-
tojiol ; many fine gardens.
56 kil. Er-llnhd. From this village
there is a road to Hammam bou Hadjar;
see farther on. The Sebkha or salt
lake finishes here.
64 kil. The line crosses a salt stream,
the Rio SaJado, the Flumcn Salum of
the ancients, and the Oucd Malah of
the Arabs, which falls into the Medi-
Sect. II
ROUTE 23. BENl BAF
255
terranean between Cape Figalo and
Cainnierata.
70 kil. Ain - Temouchent. Pop.
5496.
The land here is watered by two
streams, the Oned Temouchent and
Oued Senan, which are also utilised as
motive power for mills.
The village was built in 1851 on the
i-uins of a Roman town, called by Pliny
Ujipidum Tiinict, from the excavations
of which many interesting relics have
been obtained ; amongst others a bas-
relief of the death of Cleoiiatra, now at
Oran.
A monumental mairie has recently
licen constructed ; the facade is of cut
stone, with columns and arches of gray
marble obtained in the neighbourhood.
[On the road between this village
and Ain-el-Arbiia, and 7 kil. from the
latter, are the tln-rmal s])rings of
Hanunam bou Hadjar (Patli of the
Piock), which are much esteemed by the
Arabs, and were used by tiie Romans,
as ruins there attest. They have not
Ijcen much used hitherto by Europeans
owing to the want of accommodation.
The water resembles that of Vichy ; it
gushes out of the ground in a column
1 metre high, and 15 centimetres in
diameter ; its temperature is 80" Cent.,
176° Fahr. At a short distance from it
is a cold gaseous spring.]
A hotel was opened here in the
summer of 1889.
An excursion may be made from this
point to Beni Saf, see Rtc. 24".
There are diligences Ijetwcen Ain-
Temouchent anil Tleni(;en, and rice
rrrsd, in correspondence with each train.
Tlie journey occupies 8 hours.
14 kil. A ill Khial.
23 kil. Am Tckbalct.
The .small village of this na?nc is
about a mile from the road. P)y the
roadside tliere is a small house and a
fountain, and close to them are ipiarrics
ol' the beautiful alabaster known as
Algerian onyx.
The discovery was made in 1849 by
Signor Delmonte, of Oran, owner of the
more famous nnarries of Nuniidian
marble near Kleoer (p. 273). They are
interesting not only on account of the
beauty and value of the stone but geo-
logically, as such deposits are not
usually found in large masses, but gene-
rally only in grottos as .stalagmite.
This ony.v was at one time much in ile-
mand, and may again become so, now
that railway communication has con-
siderably lessened the cost of transport.
It was known to the ancients, and
pieces of it may occasionally be picked
up in the gardens at Rome. Cohinms
of it, Ibund in excavations in the
mostpie at Mansoura, may be seen in
the mosques and museum at Tlenicen,
2 '50 nu'tres in height, and 1*49 metre
in circumference.
The scenery around now begins to bo
of a more ]ilcasing character, as the
road ascends through wild hilly country
to the plateau above the Isscr.
From this point a fine panorama oiwns
out, comprising in the foreground tlic
picturesijuc towers and walls of Tlem-
(;en, and bounded in the distance by tiie
range of the iJjehil Nudor.
44 kil. Le Punt d'Issci: 184 inhab.
This village, situated in a fertile
valley, makes little or no progress,
owing to its unhealthiness. Great
natural advantages in Algeria arc
fre(|uently counterbalanced by the
insalubrity of climate, so that the most
fertile districts are often not the most
prosjierous.
At 7 kil. E. of this bridge, on the
left bank of the Isser, is the alkaline
spring of Hanniiain Sidi Abdeli ; it
si)rings out of a natural basin, near
which are traces of Roman construction,
and yields 150,000 litres per hour.
52 kil. Xcijrier. A small village of
184 inhab., founded in 1849, and named
after a French general.
Crossing the Saf'-Snf, and passing
through highly cultivated country, the
road ascenils to the plateau on which
TIcuicen is situated.
66 kil. Tlemcen. Poji. 17,123.
Every one has heard of Cranada ami
its Moorish antitpiities. Tlie name of
Tlem(;cn is known to comparatively
few, yet it was a contemjutrary city
not less illustrious, witli a population
of 100,000 or 150,000, renowneil for its
philosophers and its artists, the seat.
2r)G
UOUTH 23. ORAN TO TI.KMCKN
A [ycria
(■(|iially witli tlic JMoorisli cities in
Spain, of civilisation and relineinent,
of commerce and wealth, the centre of
an extensive trade, the capital of a
powerful nation ; and even now it is
iiardly inferior to it in lieauty of situa-
tion and in architectural interest. It
has no one grand monument like the
Alhambra, but it possesses many reli-
gious edifices, which, if smaller, are
hardly less beautifuh
Tlenn^en lies about 2500 ft. above
the sea, on the northern slope of a
mountain called LcIIa Sella, and its
climate, vegetation, and scenery resemble
those of Central Italy. Frost, though
never severe, is not uncommon, and
snow occasionally lies on the ground
for a fortnight at a time. Changes of
temperature are also both sudden and
frequent.
The neighbourhood, irrigated by
numerous springs and streams of water,
is highly cultivated, and the luxuri-
ance and abundance of apple, pear,
cherry, almond, peach, and still more
of fig and olive trees, explain the name
of Pomaria given to the original Tlemyen
by the Romans ; but the winters are
too cold for the orange or lemon to
llourish, except in the most sheltered
situations. The olive trees are remark-
ably fine and very productive ; the oil
made from them is equal to that of the
S. of France. Each olive tree is said to
be worth 15 f. a year, and the number
of young trees planted by the colonists
shows that the cultivation must pay
them well.
Pomaria was not an important town,
and seems to have been so utterly
ruined in the disastrous period which
followed the Vandal invasion, that its
very name w-as forgotten, when a.u.
790, or 174 of the Hcgira, Idris ben
Idris ben Abd-Allah, an able and enter-
prising monarch, obtained possession of
the site from the Berber nation of the
Zenata, and established his brother in
possession after he had commenced
building a great mosque. The Idris-
sides held Aghadir, as Tlemgen was then
called, 140 years. The Fatimites next
possessed it 24 years, and it then fell
into the power of the Ifrenides for 125
years. During the succeeding dynasty
of liic Aluioravidi.'s, wiio conquered
Agliadir a.d. 1080, it grow greatly in
inij)ortance. A new town calleil Tag-
rart rose on the site of the present
town, and to W. of Aghadir, separated
from it by a stone's throw, and with
distinct fortifications. The name of
Tlem(;cn was eventually given to the
two united towns. Aghadir remained
for many years the royal city and " the
city of soldiers," among wliom was a
guard of several thousand Christians.
Tagrart became the city of commerce.
Foreigners, Jews, and Christians re-
ceived full protection, and the latter
possessed a church. The present bar-
racks of the Spahis was the Kissaria,
or the Bazaar of the Frank, made over
to the Catalan, French, Genoese, Pisan
and Venetian merchants, with its wall
and its gates closed at sunset, under
the exclusive government of the consuls.
It is supposed there were at one time
5000 Christians in Tlennjen, governed
by their own representatives.
The greatness of Tlem^en, which
commenced under the Almoravides,^
culminated under the Almoahides, who
succeeded them a.d. 1145, and a new
wall surrounding the double town was
commenced a.d. 1161.
Under the two dynasties of the
Almoravides and the Almoahides
Tlem(;en was one of the chief cities
of the great Mohammedan empire of
the West; but (1212) the battle of
Nova Tolosa dealt a fatal blow to the
power of the latter, and Tlemcen was
taken from them a.d. 1248 by Ghama-
rasan, chief of the Zenata tribe of Abd-
el-Ouad,- and became under him and
his successors the capital of a kingdom
embracing the present provinces of Oran
and Algiers. The most notable events
under the early Abd-el-Ouadites were
the two long sieges to which the
ambition of the Mereuides, the dynasty
then ruling in Fez, subjected Tlem9en,
the immediate cause of both being the
refusal of the Sultan of Tlemcen to give
1 The word Almoravides is a corruption of
El-Mombeiin, pi. of Morabet, a religious per-
son. El-Moahidcs is correctly El-iloahedoun,
or afflniiers of the unity of God.
- We adopt the ordinary orthography instead
of the more accurate one of Abd • el - Wahid,
etc.
Sect. II
RODTE 23. TLEligEN
257
up fiijfitivc'.s. 'J'lie lirst siege was raised
A. I). 1308 in coMsu(iii('iR'e of tlic murder
of Abou Yakoub, Sultan of Fez, after
lasting over eight years, during )>art
of wliieli Tleni^'en was elosely invested
and the besiegers' camp was surrounded
with a wall, of which a portion still
remains at Mansoura. Tlu^ second
siege commenced in 1335. The wall
of Abou Yakoub was again employed
by his successor, Abou el-Hassan Ali,
known as the ]51ack Sultan, and the
investing force secured against a sudden
attack from behind by a line of towers.
The city fell into his hands in 13-'37 ;
but the ]\Ierenides lost it again ten
years after the death of Abou el- Hassan
in 1348-49.
Abou Hammon Mousa, another Ber-
ber of the tribe of Abd-el-Ouad, suc-
ceeded in expelling them in i'-ii^tS), and
the Abd-el-()uadites held it till lo53,
though during a great part of this
period their power did not extend be-
yond Tenes, while for the last forty years
they were vassals of the Spanish sove-
reigns who are said to have garrisoned
the Mechouar and to have Iniilt that
jiart of the existing wall which faces
the town.
In 15.")3 Tlcni<;en was captured by
the Turks under Salah Rais, Pacha
of Algiers. The fall of the town was
not less com])lete than that of its royal
family ; and tlu^ Arab proverb was
verified, that " where the hoof of the
Turkish horse has trod the grass re-
fuses to grow." Science, literature, and
art, which had been long decaying,
became extinct ; agriculture declined,
manufactures and commerce almost
ceased ; at such a distance from the
sea it liad not the resource of piracy,
the only trade which nourished. The
palaces have long vanished ; not a
Moorish villa is to be seen in the
neighbourhood. Kven the olive trees
either appear to be centuries old, or
else to have l)een planted since tlie
French occupation.
From 1830 to 1834 the possession of
the town was disputed between Abd-er-
Rahman, Emperor of Morocco, and the
Turkish troops, who, during the latter
part of these four years, were in the
p;iy of France and held the iMcehouar.
I Alijcria.]
Abd - el - Kader appeared before the
walls in 1834, when the Moors evacu-
ated the town. Gen. C'lauzel enlereJ
Tlenii;en in Jan. 1836 ; and after im-
l)0sing a line of 150,000 f. on the in-
habitants, left Captain Cavaignac in
command of a small garrison in the
Mechouar, or citadel. The town was
then again besiegi-d by Abd-el-Kailer ;
but Cavaignac, with his garrison of 275
men, succeeded in holding it against
the whole army of the Emir until the
following June, when he was at lengtli
relieved by Gen. Bugeaud.
In 1839, by the treaty of the Tafna,
Tlem9en was ceded to Abd-el- Kader,
who made it his capital ; but his troops
were perpetually (juarrelling with tlic
inhabitants, and the ruineil condition
of a great part of the town dates from
this period. Before long, war was re-
newed, anil in 1842 the town was
occui)ied by the French.
It is now extremely prosperous ; the
neighbourhood is fertile and singularly
well supplied with water, and it is the
chief town of an extensive district
which exports annually large i|uanti-
ties of olive oil, olives, dried tigs, wool,
sheep, horned cattle, corn and flour,
besiiles cloths, carpets, and leathern
articles of native manufacture. Alfa
is brought here from Sebdou, 43 kil., to
the S., and pre]>ared for exportatit>n.
The special manufactures of the plaee
are brightly coloured blankets, and the
red shawls called takli/a, worn by the
Jewish women.
Amongst the remains of .Moorish
architecture within the wallsof Tlemcen,
the foUowingare the best woith visiting.
The chief mos(|ue, Djamaa-el-Kebir,
in the I'lace d'Alger, has 72 columns,
all s((uare except 2. The arches are
horseshoe, and for the most part
rouiul and plain, but some few are
pointed, and others decorated on
iheir interior side with plastiT - work.
The ceilings are of wootl, and plain,
'i'he mihrab, which is on the S. Mo
of the mosiiuc, is finely ornamentctl
with arabesques, lighted from above ;
and its round hoi-seshoe arch is very
beautiful. On it is the date a.m.
530, corresponding to A.u. 1136, which
2r)8
ROUTE 23. OKAN TO TLEMQEN
A bjeria
shows tliat Uio iiios(iuc was built under
tliu Aliuonivides. Tlic prcseut build-
iu>^, however, is tlic successor of a much
uioic ancient one, founded, according to
Ibn Khahloun, in A. i). 790. The large
chandelier, with a diameter of 2 '44
iiu''tres, was tlie gift of Ghamarasau, the
hrst of the Abd-el-Ouadite Sultans,
A.I). 1248 to A. D. 1283, who himself was
buried here. The courtyard is ))ai'tly
paved with Algerian onyx, and tlie
basin of the fountain is of the same
material. The minaret, which is of
brick, and about 34 metres high, was
built by Ghamarasan.
The Mosque of Sidi Ahmed Bel
Hassan el-Ghomari, now an Arab
school, and situated in the same Place
d' Alger, has been restored by the
French and offensively decorated on
the exterior with modern tiles. The
interior, however, contains some ex-
quisite productions of Moorish art,
especially the arabesques round the
mihrab ; their variety, richness, and
relinement is probably unsurpassed
anywhere. The date of this work, a.h.
696, or A.D. 1296-97, is inscribed here,
and in the centre of the tliird arch.
The mosque is supported by six columns
of Algerian onyx. Nearly all the walls
and arches have been covered with
arabescj^ue decoration, and the greater
part remains.
On the opposite side of the square
next to the mairie was the Medressa
or college, now destroyed, where Ibn
Khaldoun taught.
The Mosque of Sidi Abrahim is worth
a visit, and in the tomb of the saint,
which is contained in a separate build-
ing, there are some remarkably fine
arabesques.
The above is almost all that remains
of ancient Tlem(;en within the walls
worthy of particular notice ; nor have
the walls themselves fared better — they
have been replaced by modern defences.
The destruction of the Mechouar,
or citadel, has been most complete.
Built in 1145 as the residence of the
governor, it became the palace of the
Abd-el-Ouadites. The Arab writers
often make mention of its splendour
and of the brilliancy of the court held
there ; but the Turks and time, and the
Genie militaire, have spared nothing
except the njinaret of tlic mosque and
the outer walls.
'J'he Museum, or rather the want of
one, is a disgrace to the city'; many
precious relics are stowed away, with-
out care or order, iu some of the lower
rooms of the mairie. These consi.st of
tumulary inscriptions ; fragments of
tile mosaics ; arabesque work ; columns
of Algerian onj-x excavated from the
ruins of the mosque at Alansoura ; and
catapult balls, some weighing about 250
lbs., supposed to have been used during
the two great sieges in the beginning
of the 14th century.
The most interesting objects are —
first, the standard cubit measure of the
Kissaria ; it is in marble, and bears in
Arabic the inscription, "Praise and
thanks be to God, this is the cubit
measure of the Kissaria, which may
God establish. In the month of Rabeea
Eth-Thani, in the year 728," corre-
sjionding to March 1328. The length
of this cubit is 47 centimetres, or 18i
inches. And secondly, built into a wall,
an onyx slab with a long Arabic inscrip-
tion, THE TOMBSTONE OF BoU ABDITLLA,
the last king of Granada, who sur-
rendered to Ferdinand and Isabella,
and died here in exile.
The mairie itself is a phenomenon of
ugliness ; the central portion is supposed
to be decorated with a pediment sup-
ported by horns of plenty ; but these
features are rather suggestive of a
tombstone and elephants' trunks.
The Church is an exceptionally good
one for Algeria. The font is a fine
basin of green serpentine, found in the
ruins of Mansoura.
The mosque of Abou Abdulla esli-
Shoudi, more usually known by the
name of Sidi-el-Halawi, the Sweetmeat-
maker, lies immediately outside the
walls. Leave Tlemceu bj' the gate of
the Abattoir, turn to the left, and you
come to a small collection of native
houses inhabited by negroes, with its
own mosque and minaret ; keep on
above these, and on turning round the
N.E. corner of the town wall you will
see below you the mosque of Sidi-el-
Halawi. As you descend to it take
notice of the mosaics on the minaret.
Sect. II
ROUTE 23. TLEMQEN
259
The niosf|Ue and its court arc decorated
with arabestjues ; but it owes its cliief
iuterest to its eiglit columns of Algerian
onyx, with Moorish capitals, and to the
richly carved ceilings of cedar over the
lateral naves, and the colonnade on each
side of the court. The ceiling of the
Mihrab should likewise be noticed.
The date 754, e([ual to A. d. 1353, is
inscribed over the portal, which is very
beautifully decorated with tile mosaics
and arabescjues.
At least three circles of ancient forti-
fications can be clearly made out. The
innermost of these followed the line of
the French wall, and there is but little
of it left. The walls and towers of the
two outer circles are in many places still
standing, ami, added to the advantages
of its situation, must have made the
Tlem^en of the Almoahades and early
Abd - el - Ouadites a place of great
.strength. The w'alls 'and towers are
built of large ma.sses of concrete or pise
(2 to 4 metres is no uncommon size),
which now look like stones, and are
almost as durable. The towers, with
tlie exception of two round ones near
tlio N. AV. corner, are rectangular;
but though these walls are highly
jiicturcsque and interesting, it is at
^Mansoura that the system of Moorish
fortifications can be most easily studied.
All visitors to Tlem9en should, if
possible, take the two undermentioned
walks : —
1. Leave Tlemcen by the gate of the
Abattoir, go straight down the hill,
and in from 10 to 15 minutes you will
come to the minaret, which is all thai
remains of the mosque of the Aghadir.
Tlie lower part of this beautiful tower
is constructed of large hewn stones
from the Roman I'omaria, which oc-
cupied the same site as Aghadir, and
on several, both inside and outside,
Latin inscriptions are found ; one is
said to bear the name of Pomaria.
The ujiper ]iart of the minaret is of
lirick, doubtless of a later date than
A.I). 7S0, when a mosque was first built
liere. The fortilications commence a
few yards lower down. The arch of the
gateway by which the road passes fell
down not many j'cars ago. It was
called after Sidi Daoudi, the patron
saint of Aghadir, whose tomb lies just
below. The neighbourhood of this tfimb
is ])robably the best point from which
to view the fortifications. Tourists are,
however, strongly recommended to de-
scend 'a little farther, taking a path to
the right, into tlie valley of the Oucd
Kalia, and after crossing this brook to
turn ag.ain to the right. A walk through
gardens filled with fruit, ash, elm, and
walnut trees, and passing close uinler
the outer or second line of the walls
and towers of Aghadir, and within
sound of the Oued Kalia, leads in from
5 to 10 minutes to the Oran road ; Init
it will be well to recross the brook just
before the highroad is reached, and to
follow a path to the right, which will
conduct ill about 2 minutes to an old
Arab burial-ground, with tomlis of
Marabouts, and an octagonal one of
singular elegance. The cemetciy is
beautifully situated, and elm, and
especially ash trees (Fmxiniis ^4i(st-
ralis), arc here found of a size unusual
in N. Africa. One of the latter, still
a flourishing tree, measures 4J metres
in circumference.
2. Leave Tlemfen by the gate of
Boic Mcdin, follow the road to Oran
about 150 yards, turn to the right
across the bridge over the Oucd Kalifi.
The ruin on the left was part of the
mint. Immediately after passing the
bridge, turn again to the right and
follow the path along the edge of the
OiuJ Kidia. Extensive remains of
walls and towers will be met with
along the S. side of Tlem(;en, to which
this path conducts. This side being
natiiially the most exposed, was most
strongly fortified. On the western side
tliere are not many fortifications of im-
portance, except at the north-western
angle, where there are the two round
towers already mentioned. Visit tho
Christian cemetery and return by tlie
I'ortc des Carriiies.
A wliole morning should be devot<"!
to Sidi Ecu Medin.
Aiinnt 2 kil. from Tlein^en towanl-
the S. E., and on the slope of a hill,
which shelters it from the sirocco, lies
260
ROUTIO 23. ORAN TO TIJCMgEN
A Ifjeria
a iiicaii-lookiii;,' Aral) villa^'c, distiii-
•jliiisliud at !i (lislaiicc only by its
iiiiiiaiut. This is El Eubbad, more
coiiiiiiouly calKil Sidi Bou Mcdiii,
wliirli was tlui homo of ruligiou and
sciuiK'u when Tlum(;eii was inhabited by
warrioi-s and statesmen. It is in this
more fortunate than its neiifhbour,
that its monuments have been better
preserved.
Shortly after leaving the gate of Bou
Mediu the road turns to the right,
passes a ruined building which was the
ancient mint, nearly opposite the en-
trance to the public gardens, and tra-
verses the great Arab cemetery, now
much circumscribed in extent. Several
Koubbas to the right and left, many
of which possess a history, and the
minaret of a ruined mosque, give in-
terest to the walk. The only one in a
good state of preservation is that of
Es-Snoosi, the exterior of which is
square with a tiled roof, but the interior
is a very elegant dome. After passing
through the, to all appearance, poverty-
stricken village, the visitor sees before
him a Moorish porch of painted wood-
work, which gives entrance to the
mosque and its dependencies.
To the left on entering is the ruined
Palace of the founder of all these noble
structures, commonly called Abou el-
Hassan Ali, or the Black Sultan, but
whose name and ancestry, as written
in full over tlie entrance gate of the
mosque, is "Our Lord the Sultan Ab-
dulla Ali, son of our Lord the Sultan
Abi Saeed Othman, son of our Lord
the Sultan Abi Yoosuf, son of Yacoob
Abd el-Hnk." He was the first of the
Merenides and reigned from a. H. 737
till 749 (A.D. 1337 to 1348). The
actual date inscribed over the door is
A. H. 739. On the tablets below the
spring of the ai'ch, at the main entrance
to the mosque, his name is written.
Our Lord the Sultan Abou el-Hassan
Abdullah Ali."
This was one of his many palaces,
and it might well have been his favour-
ite abode. It could not have been
very large, but it was richly decorated,
and the view from the arcaded terrace,
overlooking a wide expanse of plain
and mountain, and even the distant
sea at Kacligoiin, compares favourably
even with the far famed Vega of
Granada.
It is below the general level of tlie
court, and until 18Sl it was -covered
with earth and rubbish, so that its
existence was not susj)ected ; now it
has been excavated under the intelli-
gent superintendence of M. CoUignon,
Gonscrvatcur dcs Monuments histuriques.
On the same side, also below the
level of the court, is the Koubba of
Sidi Bou-Medin, the patron saint of
Tlemi;en. His correct name was Shaoib
ibn Hoosain el-Andalousi, snrnamed
Abou Median, corrupted into Bou-
Medin. He was born at Seville in
A.H. 520, corresponding to a.d. 1126.
He passed over from Spain to Fez,
where he devoted himself to the stud}'
of theology, and after travelling all
over Spain, Algeria, and even as far
as Baghdatl, he died at Ain-Tekbalet
within sight of Tlem9en, in the 75th
year of his age.
The writer ventures to give one
earnest recommendation to all visitors.
This, to tlie Mohammedan, is very
holy ground ; let the visitor remove his
shoes at the outer door of the courtyard ;
and he will have his reward in the
increased attention paid to him by the
guardians.
A short staircase descends into an
antechamber ; to the right and left
are tombs of persons connected with
the mosque, but not of great antiquity.
There is nothing I'emarkable in the
architecture of the antechamber ; to
the right is the entrance to the tomb
itself, and an inscription on the door
informs ns that having been greatly
injured by fire it was restored by
Sidi Mohammed, Bev of Oran, in a.h.
1208 (A.D. 1792). The koubba itself
contains two tombs ; to the right is
the resting-place of the saint himself,
to the left is that of his friend and
disciple Sidi Abd-es-Selam of Tunis.
The roof and walls retain all their
fine old arabesque work, the principal
feature of which is the repetition of a
cartouch containing the inscription
El-Mulk Lillah, "The kingdom is
God's." The colouring is crude and
modern. The whole interior is full of
Sect. II
ROUTE 23. M.VXSOURA
261
banners of brocade, votive candles,
ostrich eggs, and the usual parapher-
nalia of Arab tombs.
On remounting to the upper court
we see before us the principal entrance
to tlie Mosque itself, glorious in design
and sparkling with the most beautiful
tile mosaics ; in the best style of
Moorish art. These glazed tiles,' used
in making the mosaic ])atterns, are
supposed to have been made in Fez,
or some other parts of Jlorocco ; they
are somewhat ruder than tliose em-
l)loyed in the Alhaml)ra, but exceed-
ingly ed'ective ; the S(piare tiles came
probably from Spain.
To the right hand is a half ruined
building, which, before the French
con(juest, was recognised as an inviol-
able sanctuary for criminals or refugees
from justice.
Ascending the steps we enter a
portico with decorated walls and a
roof of lioneyeombed pendativcs, and
jiass into tlie open court beyond by
large double doors covered with bronze,
of wiiich, unfortunately, the lower part
lias been stolen bit by bit. There is
a tradition respecting these doors that
tliey were lost in tlie sea, but recovered
from it and brought to Uou-iledin Ijy
tlie prayers of the saint. It may
almost be said that they are to Moor-
ish art what the doors of Ghil)erti are
to Italian, for purely decorative art
was never carried higher. Tlie design
is a geometric interlaceil pattern.
Tile mosipie itself is worthy of the
approach to it. It is divided into five
naves, tlie two lateral ones being pro-
longed as corridors round the building,
so as to enclose an open court — similar
in fact to all other mosques in the
place. The roofs of tliese naves are
elongated vaults, decorated witli jilaster-
work, in geometric patterns, without
tracery, of a design much liolder than
that on the rest of the building. It
has at one time l)een painted — a very
small fragment of the original jiainting
gives an itlea of the style adopted.
The pillars are sipiare and ])eirect!y
plain, but the whole superstructure,
from the spring of the arches to the
1 (Arabic Zilaidj, whence the Spanisli
Azulejos.)
roof, is covered with most delicate lace-
like work. So is the mihrab, and the
koubba in front of it, the domed ceil-
ing of which is of open work, with
stained glass. The painting of tliis
])ortion of the building is modern, and
open to criticism.
The walls of the building have a
richly sculptured frieze, but below this
they have a very siin[)le pattern excised
in the plaster. The ancient mimber
was of marble, but it got broken, and
the ])resent painted wooden pulpit was
given liy Abd-el-Kader.
On the two pillars in front of the
mihrab are onyx slabs bearing long
Arabic inscriptions. These are the
original charters by wliicli the lands
around were granted in perpetuity to
the mosque as JIabons or inalienable
property. The French Government has
taken ]iossession of tliesc, and they
have tlierel)y incurred the responsi-
bilit}' of keeping the building in proper
order. They have done a good deal of
late years ; had they begun .sooner we
should not have had to deplore the
irreparable dilapidation of this precious
monument.
The traveller should by all means
ascend the minaret ; he will be re-
warded by a magniticent view, and he
will be able to inspect closely the
manner in which it was decorated.
To the W. of the mosque and at-
tached to it is the Medraasa or college,
where talebs and schdlars taught and
studied at the cost of the endowment.
In form it is similar to the; mostjuc :
the inner chamber has a fine domed
roof of open woodwork, below wliicli
is a frieze of Arabic inscriptions, akso
of sculptured wood. The tile mosaics
whieh adorn the entrance? are remark-
ably line. The buililing is isolated
fiom the rock behind by a narrow
gallery; this got filled up with earth,
wiiidi entailed the destruction of tlie
plaster-work on the walls.
On the E. side of the nios(|uo is tin
vapour bath and its dependencies.
Mansoura, about IJ m. to the W. ii
Tleiiie.'ii, is hardly less remarkable than
I?ou-Mediii, and the road to it passes
by several interesting objects. It is
2G2
ROUTE 23. ORAN TO TLEMgEN
A Igeria
better to visit it in tlic! aftfinoou, a.s
the lii^lit is then better for seeing tlie
jninarct.
Leave Tlcmi;cn by the Fez gate, and
about 100 yards i'artlier on will be
seen on tlic right the Saharidj, a reser-
voir, 220 metres long l»y 150 broad. It
is built with walls of conerete 3'6.'>
metres high and about 1 metre thiek,
strengthened by buttresses ; it was
construeted, we are told, by Abou
Taelifm, the last king of the elder
branch of the Abd-el-Ouadites, who was
killed at the capture of the Mechouar,
in 1337, in order to gratify as far as pos-
sible the whim of a favourite wife who
wished to Ijehold the sea and ships upon
it. It has been partly repaired by the
French, but cannot be used as a tank
owing to some undisco vei'ed leak. About
1 kil. farther on, the road passes close
to what was once a beautiful horseshoe
arch called Bab-el-Khamis, formerly a
gateway in the wall by which Abou
Yakoub invested Tlenifen in the first
years of the 14th century. It has now
lost all its beauty bj' ruthless restora-
tion. The large ruin which will be
noticed on the slope of the hill to the
left is an ancient mosque. Beyond
the arch the road crosses the eastern
wall of Mansoura. Its history re-
sembles a tale from the " Arabian
Nights." After Abou Yakoub had be-
sieged Tlenifen four j'ears he turned his
camp into a city, and surrounded it
with walls and towers, of which a large
portion now remains. The walls are
about 12 metres high and the towers
37 metres apart, all built of concrete —
a method which Pliny mentions as em-
ployed by the people of this country
in his time. Though the walls have
in places disappeared, the line of
towers still marks their direction ;
they enclosed a nearly perfect square
of 250 acres. Ibn Khaldoun says
of it: — "It was filled with large
houses, immense buildings, sumptuous
palaces, and irrigated gardens. It was
in 702 (1302) that the king built its
walls and that he created a splendid
city, famous both for its vast popu-
lation, its extensive trade, and its
massive walls. He included in it
baths, caravanserais, a hospital, and
a mosque with a lofty minaret." " In
a short time," he adds, "it took the
first ])lace among tlie cities of iiar-
hary." Mansoura was, liowever, evacu-
ated when peace was made in 1306,
and deserted till 1329, when it was
again occupied during the second siege
of Tlemijen. Abou '1-Hassan, the Black
Sultan, after the capture of that city,
built a j)alace at ilansoura, which be-
came a favourite residence. But in
1359 the Merenides were cxi)elled from
TleniQcn, and Mansoura was finally
deserted. Excepting the walls and
the mosque, little remains of its former
greatness, which is accounted for by
the materials of which Moorish cities
are built. Hewn stone and marble
were seldom employed, and the con-
crete and cement with which their
places were supplied soon perish when
exposed to the weather. The minaret
of which mention has been made was
built of hewn stone, and one side and a
part of two others remain to this day.
It is by far the most beautiful archi-
tectural monument of Moorish times
in Algeria.
Until lately it was in great danger of
falling, but now it has been thoroughly
strengthened and repaired.
The Arabs of the neighbourhood saj'
that Abou Yakoub, being impatient
to complete his tower, emplo3'ed upon
it Mohammedan, Jew, and Christian
masons, and that the work of the first
only has stood. In this story there is
probably a germ of truth, for the general
character of the tower is European, but
the decoration Moorish. AH other
minarets near Tlemgen are built either
of brick or concrete, with a solid square
mass of masonry in the centre, round
which runs the staircase, and round
this again the outer walls, which are
commonly, if not always, of bricks
arranged to make peculiar patterns,
the solid centre rising several feet or
even yards above the walls. The
Jlansoura minaret is, on the contrary,
built hollow in the centre, and con-
structed of hewn calcareous tufa, the
thickness of the walls being about H
metres, and the separate stones 36 cent,
in height and usually at least twice
that length. It resembles a European
Sect. IT
ROUTE 23. BENI AAD
263
clmrcli-tower in position, being in the
centre of tlie end opposite the niihrab,
and there is an entrance into tiie niosipie
through it. Instead of an interior
staircase it had a series of inclined
planes or ramps up which a horse
could mount to the summit. iEsthetic-
ally, the tower can hardly be too highly
praised. The proportions are ])erfect,
the decoration rich and original, or at
least unlike anything else in the neigh-
bourhood. The arches are either cir-
cular or pointed, and never horseshoe.
Over the entrance arch is a stone pro-
jection or porch beautifully carved, and
round the arch is WTitten, Abou Yakotih
Yousiif ben Abd-cl-Huk commanded
this mosque to be built. The height of
the tower is nearly 40 metres, and the
upper ]iart is ornamented with green
and bine tiles. Nothing remains of the
rest of the mosque except the outer
walls, the space within which is oblong,
100 yards by 59.
A small village, with extensive and
well-watered gardens around it, appears
to occupy a mere spot in the immense
area of the ancient city.
The falls of El-Ourit or the Snf-Saf,
5 kil. from Tlemyeu, would be well
worthy of a visit, even in a country
where waterfiills abound. The road
to S. Bel Abbes passes close under
them, and the new railway runs just
above.
Leave Tlera9en by the gate of Bou
Medin, and take the road which
branches off to the right, about ^ m.
outsiile the town. It passes through
the olive grounds and gardens below
Bou Jledin, and winds .shortly after
to the right, round the corner of the
hill, and turns again .sharply to the
left at a briilge, whence the falls are
best seen. They are unijuestionably
beautiful, though not from the (juantity
of water, or from their height, for
though the total fall from the summit
of the clitrs where the water is tirst
seen, to the bottom of the ravine below
the bridge, cannot well be less than -I.'jO
metres, no single fall seems to be of
more than 30 ; but rocks rise jirecipit-
ously on either side from steep lianks
half hidden by wild cherry trees, while
huge masses of calcareous tufa, hollowed
out in fantastic caverns, cover the
ascent in front. The rich green of
sloping banks contrasts with the red
masses of the stratified cliffs, springing
from them, nearly 300 metres hard and
sharp against the .sky line ; while an
immense mass of perpendicular tufa
closes in the valley on the left of the
upper fall.
The visitor to the stalactite caves of
the Beni Aad can drive 14 kil. along
the road to Sidi bel Ablie.s, but must
leave his carriage and turn olf to the
right at the 16oth kilometri(; stone.
The caves are 5 kil. from the road,
but there are Arab encampments at
hand where mules may be procured if
notice be given beforehand.
The following description of them is
from "Through Algeria" : —
"Stalactites in every variety of size
and form closed in my view above,
around, below. No ceiling of human
work could exceed in varied beauty
the deeii-tluted fringes and arches of
jiale yellowish hue that hung over-
head ; and not less exquisite were the
clustering columns which, .shooting up
on every side, joined the vault above,
or terminated midway in a gi-oup of
glittering pinnacles. As we threaded
our way through overarching aisles,
with aisles and aisles .seemingly ex-
tending into the darkness on either
hand, the weird-like fantastic beauty
of the scene conjured up my childish
visions of fairyland."
The main grotto extends for more
than a kil. in length, but it has never
been thoroughly explored, and it is
supposed that there is a communica-
tion between it and other caverns
farther down the hill. In visiting
this cave the traveller would do well
to provide himself with a magnesian
lamjt, or if that is im|io.s.sible, a good
supply of blue light anti red fire, whiih
is easily procuralile at Algiers. Facili-
ties for visiting the.se caves can bo
obtiined by application at the .Sous-
Brefeeture.
The writer .saw them ilhuninatcil
l)y 2ti0 Arabs carrying llambeaux,
some of whom climbed up the highest
264
ROUTK 23. ORAN TO TLEMQEN
Algeria
stalaf,'niites ami wavoil tln'ir toi'<'ln-s
like malignant demons amonfjst the
stalactites depomliiij^ from the roof.
Othor.s ran backward and forward,
thron,t,di the grottoes and forest of
columns around ; the effect was sin-
gularly beautiful, and more like a fairy
scene in a i)antomime thai) anything
in real life. Such a treat as this can
only be enjoyed by special favour, and
then the traveller must be prepared to
]>ay a consideralile sum in presents to
the Arab attendants.
[An excursion may be made to
Sebdou, and the mountains of tlie Beni
Snous. An omnibus runs to and from
the former place every day. The
road is good ; it passes through the
village of Mansoura, and then mounts
the steep hills south of Tlemyen. The
only appearance of European colonisa-
tion beyond this is at
14 kil. The poor little village of
Terny, situated in a jdain, the soil
of which is of very inferior quality.
Mounting the hills above, we come to
22 kil. Caravanserai of Ain-Ghoraba,
"The Spring of the Crow." Beyond,
the country is more picturesque, and
the road passes through the fine oak
forest of Titmokrcn, containing park-
like glades dotted over with magnificent
trees.
35 kil. A Maison Cantonniere may be
seen on the left side of the road ; close
to it is a large cavern, called by the
Arabs Ain-Ycmam, "The Spring of
Pigeons," from the number of those
birds which frequent it ; this is the
source of the river Tafna. The cave
is divided into two stories by a hori-
zontal partition of rock, looking almost
like masonry : the lower part contains
a pool of cool clear water, which flows
underneath the surface of the river bed
for a coui)le of hundred j'ards, and then
appears above ground as the Tafna.
After heavy rains the entire cave be-
comes full of water, which rushes out
in a magnificent cascade. The river
then flows through a series of rockj-
gorges to the N.W., till it enters the
rich ]ilain'of the Tafna, and eventually
reaches the sea at Raehgoun.
Beyond the place just mentioned
the valley becomes quite narrow, and
the road descends into tlie jilain of
Sebdou, i)assing amongst cascades,
streams of water, and rich irrigated
land. On the oppo.site side of the
plain may be seen the mountains of
the Beni Snous, amongst which are a
number of rounded 7namelons, called
by the French " The Twelve Apostles."
43 kil. Sebdou. Hotel de Commerce,
3000 ft. above the sea.
This town is situated on the Oned
Guelt el-Kilah, "Dogs' Ferry," and
was once an important military station,
with a redoubt and a large entrenched
camp, around which a considerable
village had sprung up, all the inhabit-
ants of which were more or less
dependent on the garrison for their
subsistence. But in 1881 it was
handed over to the civil authorities,
the Bureau Arabe was removed to
El-Aricia, 50 kil. farther S., and the
garrison was gradually diminished, till
now it does not number 50 men. There
is no land available for colonisation ; it
all belongs to the Arabs, who cannot
be induced to part with it, so that now
Sebdou seems menaced with ruin. The
only trade which is at all brisk is that
of alfa, of which there are usually
large depots waiting to be transported
to the coast.
An excursion, which can be made
on horseback, starting early in the
morning and returning at night, 3 hours'
ride each way, is to Dhara in the
mountains of the Beni Snous, where
is the magnificent house of El-Hadj
bel Arabi, one of the kaids of that
tribe. The road passes through a fine
forest of oak and over wooded hillsides,
lighted up in early summer with a
profusion of flowers of every colour.
The mother of the kaid is quite an
historical personage, being the widow
of Si Mohammed bin Abdulla, Agha
of the Beni Snous, who was murdered
in 1856 by, or at the instigation of,
Captain Doineau, Chief of the Bureaux
Arabe at Tlemoen. That officer was
sentenced to death for the offence, a
punishment commuted into perpetual
exile from France. This lady, who
goes everj^vhere by the name of El-
Adjusa, or "the old woman," is held
Sect. II
ROUTE 24. SIDI BEL ABBES
265
in tlie gieatest veneration throughout
the country. She does tlie honours
of her house with uncovered face, and
with the most perfect dignity and
cordiality. Travellers should not,
however, venture to call upon her
without consulting the administrator
at Sebdou.]
ROUTE 24.
A Tour through the Centre of Oran
to Mascara, Sidi bel Abbes, Tlem-
cen, Lalla Marnia, Nedroma, and
Nemours.
This route is strongly recommended
to travellers who do not fear the fatigue
of travelling by diligence, and who wish
to see something more of tlie country
than is possible by railway. It con-
tains all that is most interesting in the
piovince of Oran, and the traveller,
whose eventual destination may be
Spain or Gibraltar, can so time his
movements as to catch the Trans-
atlantic steamer at Nemours.
It can be done in 5 days' actual
travel from Algiers, viz. —
First day — Algiers to PeiTcgaux by
train (Rte. 10).
Second day — Perregaux to Mascara
by train (Rte. 23).
Third day — Mascara to Sidi bel
Abbes by diligence in 11 hours.
Fourth day — Sitli bel Abbes to
Tlemcen liy train.
Fifth day — Tlem^en to Nemours by
diligence in 14 hours.
First and secon<l days as above stated.
Third Day.
The diligence starts from Mascara at
G A.M. For the lirst 3 kil., as far as
tlie small village of St. I'irrrc, it follows
the road to Saida ; there the enibranch-
iiiont to Sidi bel Abbes takes place, and
tlicnceforth tlie kiloinctric stones are
lunnlu'ied from 1 onwards as far as
fialla Marnia.
8 kil. The railway station and vil-
lage of Tizi, situated in the wide and
fertile plain of Eghris. After crossing
this we enter the valley of the Oiud
Fckan, still very highly cultivated.
17A kil. The Bco-raije of that river,
embedded in trees ; it irrigates the
land between it and
21 kil. The village of J'^cA-rtH, peopled
by colonists from Alsace and Lorrain.
The road, which has hitherto been S. ,
now turns ncarl)' W., and closely fol-
lows the bed of the river, which is
richly wooded, especially with large
Hetoum trees {Pistachia Atlantica).
26 kil. The river here falls to a
considerably lower level in a fine
cascade.
33 kil. Lcs Trois-Rivilrcs, the junc-
tion of the four streams, the Oucd
Fckan, the 0. Traria, the O. Ifuucnd,
and the 0. Melrir, the united waters
of which now form the 2'afna. After
crossing this the road leads through
picturesque gorges and more or less
barren hillsides to
51 kil. Mercier - Lacombe, a very
prosperous viiiage, iianied alter a late
director-general of civil alfairs, who
married the daughter of Mr. Bell,
H.M. Consul - General. A market is
held here every Tuesday. The dili-
gence .stops for breakfast at the Hotel
de Commerce.
The whole distance between this antl
Sidi bel Abbes is one continuous stretch
of corn, the uniform green of which, in
early summer, is only diversilietl by
fields necessarily left fallow, and liy
the most gorgeous effects of colour
caused by wildllowers amongst the
growing corn. The country is every-
where well watered, and is one of the
richest in the colony.
59 kil. Mulai AM cI-Kndir, a small
centre of European coloni.s.ition, near
tlie marabout of the saint ; there are
only a few farms, a scliool, and the
inevitable canteens. Some bu.siness is
done here in alfa and tan-bark.
71 kil. Jlaii'/'-ns, formerly called A7-
A'sar, may be .seen a few kils. to the S. .
the name was changed to do honour t
an armv surgeon.
74 kil. /;/ ^'/v/:-I{,.lav.
88 kil. Sidi bel Abb^s, .see p. 2C9.
2GG
ROUTE 24. TOUR THROUGH THE CENTRE OF ORAN Ahjcria
Fixiiih Day.
The railway from Sidi bel Abbes to
Tlemgen is not j'ot (1889) quite com-
plete, but will soon be so.
Proceed along the main line (St.
liarbe to Ras el-Ma) as far as Tabia,
the junction for Tlem9en, where change
carriages.
13 kil. from Tabia, Taffaman.
21 kil. Ain-Tcllout, a magnificent
sjiring of cold clear water issuing from
the midst of a thick growth of ole-
anders.
This was formerly a station on the
Roman road between A!bula;{Ben Youb)
and Tlemi;cn, and was an outpost of
the military fortified camp at Castra
Scvcriana (Lamoriciere).
The traveller will find much to admire
in the view as he nears Lamoriciere.
At Tellout the plain or undulating
country suddenly gives jilaee to a deep
valley, watered by the Oued Tellout,
and dotted here and there with farms
and dwellings.
As the road, Avith windings innumer-
able, follows the steep sides of the hills
and spurs, the valley gradually opens
out ou the one hand towards Lamori-
ciere and on the other towards the
junction of the Isser and Chouli, to
theN.W.
Soon the jagged crest of the moun-
tain which rises behind Lamoriciere is
descried, and presently the pretty
village itself appears nestling amid its
avenues of trees, at the foot of a rugged
hill resembling a hacked and rusty
knife with the edge turned uppermost.
The picturesque valley of the upper
Isser , stretches away northwards,
hemmed in by hills, and the valley of
the Oulad Meimoun extends far below.
33 kil. Lamoriciere, an important
village named after General Lamori-
ciere. Here for the present (1889) the
line stops, and the traveller must go
on to TleuKjen by diligence.
Just in front and on the left of the
road, before the bridge is reached, are
the ruins of an old Roman camp and
settlement now called lladjar Roum —
the Roman stones.
An inscription was found here, of
the beginning of the 6th century, prov-
ing tliat tliis place, instead of "being
the liuhne or ad Jiubras, as had hitherto
been supposed, is the site of the Castra
SeverkmaO mentioned by Morcelli as an
episcopal see. The inscription is given
in c'j'tenso by JL Chcrbonneau in the
" ]5ull. Acad. Liscrip. et Belles Lettres,"
1878, t. vi. p. 30.
The fortified enclosure measured
about 400 yds. long and 300 broad, and
was rectangular in shape, being placed
square with the magnetic N. and S.
The village or town appears to have
extended as far as the preci])ice which
overlooks the valley of the Oulad
Meimoun, and the ground has kejit the
terrace-like outline which it doubtless
then had.
It was evidently a military post,
intended to cover the exit from the
upper Isser valley which communicates
with the High Plateaux. In the same
way Albulffi, already mentioned, served
to close the valley of the Mekerra.
Little of these remains is at present
visible. The ground is covered with
stones from the buildings which existed
formerly, and a few bearing inscriptions
have been found among the debris.
The following complete inscription is
mentioned by M. MacCarthy : —
DIAXAE DEAE
SEMORUM COMITI
VICTRICI FERARVM
ANNVA VOTA DEDI
FAKNIVS IV LI
ANVS PRAEFECTVS
COHORTIS II.
SARDORVM
After leaving Lamoriciere the road,
still skirting the chain of hills, crosses
the Isser just past the village ; and 12
kil. farther on, the Chouli, a clear
stream running over a rocky bed.
The valley narrows in more and more
as the road advances. The Chouli comes
down through a break in the hills to the
S. Some way up its course is the Berber
village of Yebdar, situated in a fertile
and pretty valley.
163 kil. Auberge Bello— Relay.
165 kil. The path to the caves of the
Beni Aad branches off to the S.
16Si kil. A'in-Fczza, a small village
situated on the most elevated part of
the road between Bel Abbes and Tlem-
^en. Residence of the administrator
Sect. II
ROUTE 24. LALLA MARXIA
2(J7
of the district. The altitude is liere
875 metres above the sea. To the right
is seen, half hidden by groves of olive
trees, the village of Oujba, entirely
native. The road soon after turns into
the deep gorge of the Cascades.
173 kil. The Cascades (see p. 263).
178 kil. A hue view is here obtained
of S. Bou Media on the left and Aghadir
on the right.
179 kil. Tlemcen (see p. 255).
Fi/lh Bay.
From Tlem9en a diligence goes to
Lalla JIarnia and Nemours in one day.
Leaving by the gate of Fez we traverse
the ruins of Mansoura, and at
184 kil. the last trace of European
colonisation is passed. The road now
goes through an undulating country,
in whicii there is a little si)iirse Arab
cultivation, and a good deal of scrub,
in some places attaining almost the
importance of a forest. It is diflicult
to lind any salient ])oints to note ; the
following are a few, of no particular
interest, save as landmarks : —
192 kil. The Maison CantcnmUrc of
Jicni Mister, near which is an Arab
village and a line grove of olive trees.
191 kil. A stone marking the spot
where a Spaniard was assassinated by
Arabs in August 1885.
205 kil. Ain-Sahra, a stream of clear
water, and the Relay.
210 kil. The Maison Cantonnih-c of
Oiied Bnrhata. Here begins the forest,
if such a name is applicable, of Tagcuis-
dett, com])osed principally of Thuya
trees {Calitris quadrivalvis), which ex-
tends for the next 10 kil.
222 kil. Maison Cantonnitrc.
223 kil. The road crosses the Tafna,
one of the most considerable rivers in
the province ; its princijjal source is from
a cavern in the mountains overlooking
the plains of Sebdou (see p. 264).
230 kil. The old road to Tlem(;en
branches od' to the N.E. at this point.
The country here is remarkably line,
park-like, and dotted over with olive
trees.
231 kil. Lalla Marnia, more proj>orly
Leila Marjhiiiii, from a female saint,
whose tomb is liere.
This is a very important strategical
and commercial position, only 14 kil.
from the frontier of Morocco and 24
kil. from the Moroccan city of Oiidjda.
It has been iilentified as the ancient
Syr by a miliary column, which fixes
the distance between it and I'oinaria
(Tlem(;en), and to Siga at the mouth of
the Tafna.
Marnia is an open village, protected
by a redoubt, which contains the garri-
son and military buildings. It is en-
tirely under military government.
It is situated in a rich and fertile
district, watered by the barrage of the
0. Alfou. The town is 365 mitres above
the sea.
[34 kil. S. are the disused mines of
Gliar lluuban, see p, 282.]
Henceforth the road which has
hitherto run nearly E. and AV. now turns
to the N., and the kilometric stones are
numbered from Marnia onwards.
5 kil. The Oued Monia is crossed by
a wooden bridge. Near this are some
thermal springs, much frequented by
the inhabitants of the district.
10 kil. The Mai'^on Cantonniirr of
Sidi Ahdulla. liehind it are two caves
with tine stalactites, and an immense
supply of guano deposited by the
numberless bats which frequent them.
17 kil. A calamine mine has lately
been discovered here, but wlien the
writer visited the jdace in May 1886,
although 6000 tons of ore had been
extracted, none had been carried away.
The road now ascends the steep range
of hills in front, and from tlie highest
jioint or col, Bab Tazza, 820 metres
above the sea, and 20 kil. from Marnia,
a s]>lendid view is obtained both to-
wards the N. and S. It ddniinntes
the plains of Nedroma, and when the
weather is line one can see as far as
the Zail'arine Islands and the Snassen
Mountains, within the frontier of
Morocco. The inhabitants of this dis-
trict are I'erbcrs.
From this jioint the road descends,
winding amongst the valleys, till it
reaches
32 kil. Nedroma. A most interest-
ing Berber city, situated on the lower
slope of the hill which we have just
208
ROUTK 25. FROM TI.IOLAT TO SIDI BEL ABBES
Algeria
jiasscd, with a inagiiificont ]iaiioraiTia
of olive f^rovns ami I'ertile fields in front
of it, an<l rieli f^anlens aiouml. It is
exceed inf,d}- ancient ; its original name
\v;is Mrillitii. cl - Botalta ; but in tiic
middle of tlie IStli century it was re-
Imilt by Sultan Gliomarasan ofTleni^en,
who changed this to its present one,
supposed to be a corruption of Dthud
Fioma, "o])posite Rome," or perhaps
"a liarrier against the Christians."
The inhahitants speak only Arabic, but
their i>crber origin would be mani-
fi!st even if historical evidence of it
did not exist. The remarkable beauty
of the women is a distinctive character-
istic of the Berber race, and here even the
passing traveller has an opportunity of
judging for himself, as the unmarried
girls do not veil their faces. The
houses are large, well built, and clean,
and the town is surrounded by crumb-
ling walls of concrete, crowned by a
ruined citadel, exactlj^ like those of
Honai (p. 281).
Until the last few' years it was ex-
clusively native, but now a few Euro-
peans have been attracted to it by the
fertility of the land and the ti'affic
caused by the new I'oad ; the bureau of
the administrator of the district has
been transferred here from Nemours,
and in a year or two it will probably
lose its 2^eculiarly Berber character,
which now makes it so interesting.
After passing for some distance
through the plain the road enters the
rich valley of the Saf-Saf or river of
Trara, one continuous series of market
gardens and orchards.
At about 1500 metres from Nemours
there may be seen, in the bed of a river
to the left, a pyramid surrounded b}' an
iron railing. This covers the remains
of the troops who perished at the
combat of Sidi Brahim, 10 kil. to the
K., in 1843. This was one of the many
gallant but unfortunate actions whicli
threw lustre on French arms during
the first years after the conquest.
A column nnder Colonel Montagnac,
consisting of 66 cavalry and 350 in-
fantrj', were enticed by Abd-el-Kadir
into a skilfully -contrived ambuscade
near Sidi Ilrahim, and almost com-
pletely annihilated ; one company of
reserves managed to force its way
nearly to Nemours, but, desjjite the
assistance afforded by the feeble garri-
son of that place, it shareil tlie fate of
the rest. Only one corporal and 12
men of the entire force were rescued.
Abd-el-Kader himself surrendered
here two years afterwards.
48 kil. Nemours (see p. 282).
ROUTE 25.
From St. Barbe de Tlelat to Sidi
Bel Abbes by Railway [thence to
TIemcen], and on to Ras el-Ma.
kil.
Names of Stations.
kil.
St. Barbe de Tlelat .
152
6
St. Lucien
146
16
Lauriers Roses
136
29
Oued Iinbert .
128
.S6
Les Trembles
116
42
Sidi Brahim .
110
52
Sidi Bel Abb^s .
100
58
Sidi Lahsen .
97
04
Sidi Khalid .
88
n
Bou Kanefis .
81
75
Tabia ....
77
83
Chanzv ....
69
100
Si Slissen
52
115
Magenta
37
122
Les Pins
30
129
Taten-Yaya .
23
143
Bedeau ....
9
152
Ras el-Ma
This line was constructed by Mr.
Harding, of Paris, and after its com-
pletion it was made over to the Cora-
pagiiie Quest Algerien. The works
commenced in the spring of 1875, and
terminated in May 1877. The country
through which it passes is rich and
tolerably well cultivated ; but one
great object in making the line was
to tap the alfa districts and bring
that produce to the coast. The princi-
pal goods carried by it are alfa fibre,
wheat, and tan bark. The country
slopes graduall}- up to Bel Abbes, and
is picturesque. The Hue starts from
the Tlelat station of the P. L. M. Com-
pany (see p. 178).
1 kil. to E. of line is the marabout
Sect. II
ROUTE 25. SIDI BEL ABBES
269
of Sidi Bel Khair, after which it follows
the general direction of the high road
from Oran to Sidi Bel Abbes, crossing
it on several occasions.
6 kil. Arret of ,SV. Lucicn. To the
E. of tlie line is a village created in
1876, and named after a child of
CJeneral Clianzy, who was accidentally
killed at Algiers two years before.
8 kil. To the E. are the marabouts
dedicated to Sidi Bcrafor, after which
the country bceomes more hilly.
9 kil. The line crosses the high road
at 38 kil. from Oran.
11 kil. To the E. is a barrage on the
Oued Tlelat, constructed iu 1872 by
military prisoners. It waters a com-
paratively small area.
13 kil. To the E. the Marabouts of
Sidi ben Taib and S. Saiah.
14 kil. AV. of line. Djenan el-Mes-
kine, the r/anka of the beggar, a well-
watered ))lantation of fruit trees on the
liigh road.
16 kil. Station of Lauriers Hoses.
To the E. is the Merabet ez-Zeidj ; to
the W. an old telegra]>h station and
the marabout of S. Mohammed. The
village of Lauriers Roses is seen to the
W. It consists of but a few liouses
along the high road.
22 kil. W. An Arab village with a
marabout on the top of au isolated
mamelon.
22i kil. Oulad Ali ; a pretty large
Arab market is held here every week.
23 kil. The house of the Kaid of the
Oulad Ali to the W. After which the
line enters the col of the Oulad Ali.
25 kil. The crossing station of the
Glial I)nbcrt. Tliis is the highest
])nint on the line, being 508 metres
above tiie level of the sea. The route
to St. Denis du Sig branches olf from
this place. Tiie country now becomes
much more fertile tiian it has been.
29 kil. Station of Oued Iinhcrt, a
small village on tlie W. , beyond which
is tiic marabout of S. ilacliou.
36 kil. Arret des Treinblcs. The
village is situated on a liill to the E.
between the line and tiie high road ;
the trees, which give their name to the
place, are on the banks of the Mekcrra,
which Hows past the village.
36 kil. The line here crosses the
Oued Sarna, and in this neiglibour-
hood the most consi<lcrable excavations
and embankments in its whole coui-so
have been executed. Tiie mountain of
Thess-alali is seen about 20 kil. to the
\V. The plain at its eastirii base is
covered with rich and flourishing farms.
4u kil. To the E. on the .Mekcrra are
tlie farm and mill of the late M. Bleuze,
who, with his housekeejxjr, was mur-
dered by a party of Arabs in 1875.
One of the assassins was executed at
S. Bel Abbes in April 1877. The
murderers were Arabs to whom lie liad
lent money and subsequently dispos-
sessed of their property.
42 kil. Station of Sidi Bnihim. The
village is an important one, situated on
the high road, about a kilometre to the
E. The tomb of the Saint, which gives
its name to it, is on a hill some little
distance beyond.
46 kil. Lc lioclier. Several isolated
farms and orchards on a bend of the
Mekerra form a district rather than a
village known by this name. The land
is extremely ricii ami well cultivated.
49 kil. To the E. of the line is a
mausoleum surrounded by trees, built
by the ^lanjuis de ilassol for himself;
he was not, however, buried here.
Beyond, to the E., is the village of
Mulai Abd-el-Kader, whose koubba is
on the opposite bank of the river,
farther E.
50 kil. Cemetery of Bel Abbes, sur-
rounded by cypress trees.
52 kil. Station of Sidi Bel Abb^s.
Pop., including outskirts, 16,980.
This town occupies the spot where a
fort fcirmerly stood, whidi was erected
by the French as a depot fur provisions
on the road between Tlemccii and .Mas-
cara. It is situated in a ]>lain watered
by the Mekerra, and is entirely modem.
The country around is dotiied in the
richest verdure, and tlie soil is exceed-
ingly fertile, ])roducing, among other
crops, tobacco of excellent ([uality ; the
wheat of this district is in liigh rej>ute
throughout the colony and even in
France.
In 1845 an attempt to capture the
fort was made by a band of Arabs of
the Oulad Brahiiii tribe, wlio gained
admittiuice under the prcteucc of dc-
270
HOUTIO 25. FROM TLKLAT TO SIDI liEI. ABUKS
A Ifjeria
siring to porforiu tlicii' duvotioTis at tlie
koiibba of the J\Iaral)out Sidi Ik'l
Al)l>c'.s, wliich adjoins tlie fort. Tlii.s
clfort was frustrated, and tlie Arabs
licaton off with great slaughter. With
this exception, the history of Sidi IJel
.\bl)es is entirely free from warfare and
bloodshed, unlike that of most of the
French settlements in Algeria.
The town is surrounded by a ditch
and bastioned wall, through which
entrance is obtained by means of four
gates on the roads to Oran, Tlem(;en,
Daya, and iMascara.
The wide street running between the
north and south gates cuts the town
into two equal ])arts ; that on the west
is the military quarter, and contains
barracks and other subsidiary buildings
sulficient to accommodate 6000 men.
Indeed this may be regarded as one of
the most important strategic positions
in the province.
It is also the headquarters of the
Foreign Legion ; the band is said to be
one of the best in the French army, and
it enlivens the station by playing several
times a week.
From a business point of view, Bel
Abbes is nearly the most considerable
town in the interior of the colony ; the
land in the neighbourhood is excellent,
and it is the principal centre of tlie
alfa trade ; 50,000 tons are despatched
hence every year, which is about a
(]uarter of the entire quantity of this
fibre imported into England.
In summer one can walk all over the
town and its immediate neighbourhood
in the densest shade. Canals carry
the water of the Mekerra through the
town, and a supply may anywhere be
obtained by digging a few feet below
the surface.
At the Fo)-te d'Oran a large Arab
market is held weekly for the sale of
vegetables, fruit, cattle and wool.
The site of Sidi Bel Abbes was
formerly a swamp, but the ]ilantations
have drained it, and now it is perfectly
healthy. The climate is generally cool
and bracing, it being 475 metres above
the level of the sea. The environs are
more thickly peopled than the town
itself ; the largest village is Perrin :
there is another at the gate of TIem(,'en ;
there is a Spanish village at tliat of
Mascara, and a negro one near the gate
of Oran.
58 kil. Station of Sidi Lahsen,
The village is on the o]i])Osite side of
the liver ; most of the colonists are of
Alsatian or German origin.
64 kil. Sidi Khalid, a miserable
village near the junction of the high
roads to Tlem(;en and Magenta, but the
land is rich and capable of irrigation.
71 kil. Bou Kanrfis. To the E. of
the line before arriving, is a native
agricultural penitentiary. The village
is surrounded by good land, but it does
not seem to have recovered from its
almost total destruction, some years
back, occasioned by the rupture of the
barrage at Tabia, which has never been
rebuilt.
75 kil. Tabia, a village which,
though of recent construction, is doing
well.
The barrage before mentioned was
constructed to utilise the waters of the
Mekerra for the irrigation of the plain
of Bel Abbes ; but the site was badly
chosen, and when full the Avater cut
through the bank, just as occurred at
Sig in 1885, and carried away tlie whole
construction with disastrous results.
[The railway to Tlem9eu branches
off here, traversing the plain of Tifiles
in a direct line to Ain-Tellout, thence
passing Lamoriciere and Aiu - Fezza,
and passing just over the Cascades of
the Saf-Saf near Tlem9en. See p. 263. ]
83 kil. Passing through a narrow
gorge, the line enters the highly culti-
vated and well-watered valley of Sidi
Ali ben Youb, now called Chanzy,
after the popular and distinguished
governor-general of that name, the last
who combined the civil and military
authority in this colon}'.
The village is about a mile from the
station on the right bank of the river.
A few hundred yards beyond it are the
thermal springs of A'i/i-Skoioi ; the
temperature is 77° Fahr., and they
yield an abundant supply both for
drinking and irrigational purposes.
There are traces of a Roman piscine ;
Sect. 11
ROUTE 25. UA.S EL-MA
indeed nunierous signs of the Roman
occupation arc still visible, and the two
pillars in front of the Ceirlc Militaire
at IJel Abbes were found here.
Near Chanzy there is a fine <piarry of
dark-coloured marble.
[Roads branch off to I'encra and to
Tclafjh, villages on the way to Daya,
the latter till lately a smala of Spahis,
but now a fairly prosperous village.]
Leaving Chanzy, the country be-
comes more mountainous and wooded,
and, especially in the forests of Djebcl
Slisscn and Toumict, the scenery is fine.
100 kil. Si Slisscn. The site of a
projected village. Beyond the station
there is only a small canteen and some
huts ; but the traffic here is consider-
able, as there are roads leading to Daya
and Telagh on the E., and to Lamori-
ciere and .some important alfa districts
on the W.
115 kil. Magenta, or El-Ilaceiba, a
village created by General Chanzy, but
which has never prospered. For a
long time it was so unhealthy that the
Irooiis were not allowed to pass the
summer here, but were removed to the
higher and healthier position of Daya,
16 kil. S. E. It is now much more
healthy, and as the surrounding lands
are fairly good the railway may bring
it prosperity.
122 kil. Arrit dcs Pins, a small
station in the vallc}'', near a barrage
built for Magenta, but constructed in a
place where the water filters through
the ground and cannot be retained.
There is no traffic here.
12!) kil. 'J'lifen-i/uyfi. The line hav-
ing now left the region of forests,
enters fairly on the high plateaux.
This will probal)ly be an important
station for the alfa trade but nothing
more, as the land olfcrs no inducements
for colonisation.
1-13 kil. lUdcdu. Near the station
is a small redoubt, established here
iluring the last troubles in the S. It
is proposed to create an industrial
village here, which, as water is abund-
ant, may pros[)er as long as the alfa
trade continues. Indeed it is to tliis
precious fibre that the railway owes its
e.vistence, and the province of Oran in
a great measure its prosperity. As far
as the eye can reach the only vegetation
of the high plateaux is that of thickly
scattered tults of alfa grass ; it is
jiieked generally by Sjianiards, who
live for months at a time in these
solitudes, and eventually despatched
for shipment to Oran and Arzeu.
[Roads branch olf hence to Daya on
the E. , to Sebdou on tlie W., and to
El-Arricha on the 8.AV.]
1.52 kil. Ras el-Ma. Tlie terminus
of tlie line, at tlie foot o^ Djebcl Bcijhra,
a mountain which dominates the high
plateaux, and on the summit of which
an optic telegraph station has been
established. The view thence is one of
utter desolation ; with the exception of
the line itself, alfa and artemcsia, not
a sign of habitation or of animal or
vegetable life is visible. This forms
the western limit of the concession
granted to the Cie. Franco-Algericnne.
It is hoped that much of tlie tiallic
from the S. of Jlorocco may come here,
as it is on the shortest and most direct
road from Figuig.
272
ROUTE 2G. FROM ARZEU TO MASCARA, ETC.
Alyeri
KOUTE 2G.
From Arzeu to Mascara, Saida,
Mecheria and Ain-Sefra by Railway.
kil.
Names of Stations.
kil.
Arzeu ....
454
"7
Saint-Leu
447
17
Port aux Poules .
437
21
La Macta
433
3S
Debrousseville
416
51
Periegaux
203
(52
Barrage 0. Fergoug
392
71
Cued el-Haminam
383
80
El-Guetna
374
88
Bou Haiiefia .
366
100
Tizi-Mascara
354
107
Froha ....
347
113
Thicrsville .
341
127
Tiaria ....
327
140
Charrier
314
145
Fi-anclietti
309
166
Nazreg ....
28S
171
Saida ....
283
182
Ain-el-Had.iar
272
191
Garage-B. Raclicd
263
206
Tafarona
248
215
Kralfallah .
239
224
Muley Alxl-el-Kader
230
230
El-Beida
222
236
Modzbah-Sfld
218
248
Tin-Brahim .
206
257
Assi el-Madaiii
197
271
El-Kreider .
183
285
Bou-Gnetoub
169
299
Rezaina
155
313
Bii-Seuia
141
323
El-Biod
131
336
Krebazza
lis
352
Mecheria
102
385
Naama ....
69
420
Mekalis
34
454
Ain-Sefra
Arzeu. 3072 iuhabitauts.
Arzeu was occupied by tlie Romans
under the name of Arsenaria ; it was
destroyed by the Arabs on their in-
vasion of Africa, and again built by
the sovereigns of Tlem5eu. Under the
Turks it was the principal place of
exportation in the province. Daring
the Peninsular War nearly 300 vessels
a year conveyed grain and cattle thence
for the use of the English army.
It was besieged and captured by
Abd-cl-Kader in the year 1831 ; and
in 1833 taken by the French under
General Desmichels ; and, after again
changing hands, was finally ceded to
France by the Treaty of the Tafna in
1837.
It occupies a very favourable situa
tion ; its harbour i.s naturally the bes
in Algeria, and has been further j)ro
tected by a soliilly-constructed break
water, running nearly N. W. and S. E
The harbour has an area of 140 hectur'-f
and the breakwater a length of 30i
metres. This place is the natural out
let for the produce of the rich valley
of the Sig, Habra, Mina and Chelif
also the entrepot for the trade
lielizane and Mascara, as well as of th
Sahara.
On the 20th December 1873, th
governor-general signed a concession
granting to the Compagnie Franco
Algeiienne the j^ermission to construe
a railway from Arzeu to Saida, with th
privilege of cuiploiUxtion of alfa in th
high plateaux of the subdivision
Mascara, but without any guarante
of interest. Some of the most import
ant conditions of this grant are :—
The Company have the exclusive pri
vilege of collecting alfa over nearly
million acres of laud, without prejudice
however, to the Arabs' right of pastur [i
age there. It pays to the State a fixei
rate of 15 centimes on eveiy ton export
ed, as far as 100,000 tons per annum
above which the rate is 25 centimes
It has the further privilege to tak
from the Government forests whateve
wood may be necessary for their work;
on payment of 2 f. per cubic metr
for pine, thuya and juniper, and -4 1
for oak. The concession to last for 9
years. It is generally reported tha
this enterprise has not provetl a ver
successful one, and it is probable tha
the Company would have found it ditii
cult to continue its operations but fo
the impulse that Bou Amama's insui
rection gave it. The State gave a sul
vention of six million f. to enable i
to continue the line right into th
desert, and pays large sums for th
transport of troops and military stores
Formerly the inhabitants sutfere
from a want of good water, whic
caused the town to become almost dt
serted, but now the rain-water has bee
collected in the ravines of Ste. Leonit
Ta~out, and Gucssiba, in uudergroun
galleries, and brought to Arzeu by
cemented conduit of 12 kil. in lengtl
kct. II
ROUTE 26. ARZEU
273
The fortifications consist of a new
itatlt'l and two old forts. The first
leiitioned was completed in 1863, and
i provided with reservoirs, barracks,
to. It is sometimes used as a political
risoii. The refugees of Carthagena,
00 ill number, were confined here in
874.
A new jetty has beeu constructed in
lie harbour, which is now commodious
iid safe ; on it is a lighthouse with a
■(1 light. There is a fixed light at the
lid of the breakwater, and another on
little island to the W., 500 metres
oiji the coast. The beach is clean
nd admirably adapted for sea-bathing,
he surrounding country is under
iltivation, and is irrigated with
rackish water obtained from "??otv'«s,"
wells supplied with Persian wheels.
In the vicinity are the famous
uarries of Numidian marbles, which
re, liov.-ever, more easily reached from
ran. At Mefessour, on the road from
lat town, is the small village oi Klchcr.
bove this rises an imposing mountain,
larked Djchcl Arousxe, on the map, a
rniption no doubt of Djchcl cr-Roos,
'I • " Mountain of the Capes," but more
nerally styled by the colonists Mon-
■gne Orinc, from its arid gray appear-
ice. The central portion, 2000 ft.
)ove the sea, forms a level plateau,
itli a suitcrficies of from 1500 to 2000
;res, consisting of an almost uninter-
ipted ma.ss of dolomitic marble and
■eccia, ini.xed with deposits of man-
mitic iron ore. This s beyond all
Dubt one of the p ace whence the
lebrated Marmor Numidicum was
"iDtained by tlie ancient Komaiis ; and
regards (piantity, beauty, and variety,
esc marbles are proliably the finest
lat the world contains.
Tlie original colour of the rock was
eamy white ; in the extreme eastern
irt, where the amount of iron is small,
exists very much in its natural coii-
titin, onl\' somewhat stained with
311, which communicates to it a tint
.sembliiig ivory. In conjunction with
is is a rose-coloured variety, which is
pable of being worked either in large
• sses or in the finest ornamentation,
'nkets made of it so clcscly resemble
' Ahjcria^
coral as to deceive the casual observer-
Here all the rock is of a uniform struc-
ture, marble in fact, as distinguished
from breccia. In the west of this plateau
however, there appears to have taken
place some great earth movement ; the
whole of this side of the mountain has
been crushed by pressure into fragments
varying in size from large angular
masses to the merest dust. This dis-
integrated mass has subsequently been
cemented together by the infiltration
of water ; the fragments have retained
to a certain extent their original rose
or yellow colour, while the matrix has
been stained of the deepest brown or
red owing to the iron oxide and the
manganese whicli has been carried by
the water through the fissures, tho
whole thus forming a beautiful breccia
of endless variety and colour. The
matrix is as hard as the fragments it
contains, so that it takes a uniform
polish throughout its whole surface.
Between these two extreme varieties,
viz. the white and rose marble on the
east, and the breccias on the west, there
are many others, such as the well-
known yellow called Giallo Antko,
a Cippolhio of almost indescribable
beauty, a variety which tiic owner
has named Paonazza, from its resem-
blance to a peacock's plumage, and a
deep red species, somewhat brecciated,
and greatly resembling, if not identical
with, the famous Rosso Antko. All
these owe their colours to the iron
and to the greater or less amount of
crushing force to which they have been
subjected.
These sjilendid quarries belong to
M. Delmonte of Oran ; it is much
to be deplored that he has not suc-
ceeded in working them to the extent
they deserve. The writer obtained
some Vilocks with which the English
Church at Algiers has been decorated ;
he also obtained othei-s for the British
Museum for the purpo.so of making
pedestals on which to mount the sculp-
tures in the Mausoleum Gallery. Ex-
cellent specimens may also be seen in
the mineralogical ilepaitmeiit of the
British Jluseum at South Kensington.
[There is a steam tramway to the
274
IIOUTE 2(>. FROM ARZKU TO MASCARA, KTC.
Algeria
Raliiics of Aiv.cn for tlio imrposc of
lii-iu^iiiLC in tlu; salt collcetcil tlicrc]
The railwaj' of tlio Comjia^nic Fraiieo-
Algc'rieiine is a narrow gauj^e one, the
widtli of tlio rails being only 1"10 in.
At first the line runs between well-
cultivated [)lains and the sea.
2 kil. It crosses the Oued Magoun, a
river which passes between the villages
of Kleber and Ste. Leonie. A barrage
has been constructed on this stream
ca])able of containing one million cubic
metres of water, but hitherto the soil
has been found too permeable to re-
tain it.
7 kil. To the S. is seen the village
of St. Leu.9 Close at hand is the Ber-
ber village of Botioua or old Arzeu, the
ancient Roman Partus Magnus, men-
tioned by Pliny, where very interesting
ruins still remain.
The most remarkable of these are the
ruins of a Roman house, of which the
interior disposition is still quite visible.
The rooms were paved with mosaics,
and in the centre was a court with two
iriipluvia to receive rain-water. The
most important of these mosaics have
been transported to the ]\Iuseum at
Oran.
Shortly afterwards the fertile land
gives place to dunes of sand covered
with low scrub, amongst which the
Forest Department has planted a large
number of Aleppo pines, which seem to
be thriving.
17 kil. Port aux PouUs. A ham-
let at the small natural harbour formed
by the estuary of the Oued Macta.
21 kil. La Macta. This is a small
village close to where the railway and
the high road cross the Oued Macta by
contiguous iron bridges. This river
has only a course of 4 kil. It rises in
the marshy ground to the S. called the
Plain of the Macta, and after a sluggish
course, caused by the bar at its mouth,
falls into the sea at the Port aux
Ponies. By some this river has been
identified as the ancient Mulucha, or
Molochn/h, which is more generally
considered to be the modern Moulouia,
on the frontier of Morocco. The
country round is extremely feverish in
the summer months, but not so in
winter, and the sport to he had is
excellent. The plain abounds in
antelope, but, owing to a superstition
that a holy man's life was .saved by one
of them, the Arabs have the greatest
objection to their being shot. In ad-
dition to these there are bustard, wild
ducks, and partridges in abundance.
The river is renowned for the large size
and excellent quality of its eels.
32 kil. The line here crosses the
Oued Tinn. This is a continuation of
the Oued Malah, which comes from
near Mascara, and falls into the marsh
of the Habra. The only way to drain
and utilise this country is by cutting
a bed for the Macta through this plain,
and draining the country by canals on
either side into it.
38 kil. Dehrousseville. It was in-
tended to create an important village
here, in the centre of M. Debrousse's
concession, but the locality is most
unhealthy, and the scheme is never
likely to be carried out. The Spaniards
have instituted an unusual commerce
here of late years, the collection and
exportation of snails. Two million
kilos, are said to be exported annuall)',
which realise about 20 f. per 100 kilos.
After lea%ang this the line passes
through the skirts of the forest of Mulai
Ismael, and then reaches the Hue from
Algiers to Oran at
51 kil. Perregaux (see p. 178).
After leaving Perregaux the line
passes through a narrow valley, bounded
by bare and sterile hills, through which
winds the river Habra, in a broad bed,
overgrown with tamarisk and olive
trees.
55 kil. Col dcs Juifs. The valley
here widens, and the difficulties of the
railway commence. There are here
heavy earthworks, and the first of a
series of bridges of considerable size,
which the company have been forced to
make for the passage of the Habra.
62 kil. Le Barrafie (see p. 178).
An excellent view of the baiTage is
obtained from the train. After its
destruction in 1881 it was restored by
the State, but no sooner was the water
allowed to collect than infiltrations
were perceived in the rock on which
the dam abuts. This necessitated the
Sect. II
ROUTE 2G. MASCARA
275
construction of an immense counterfort
at the foot of the hill, having a length
of 55 niL'tres, a height of 20 metres,
and an average thickness of 10 metres.
Beyond tliis the line crosses and re-
crosses the Habra, the country becomes
more picturesque and better wooded,
and eventually emerges into the fertile
plain in which is situated
71 kil. Dublincau, formerly Oiud el-
Haniumm. The name was changed in
honour of a colonist of that name who
was besieged in his farm by a number
of Arabs, whom he repulsed after a
heroic resistance. This is a prosperous
village situated on the liigh road be-
tween St. Denis du Sig and ^lascara,
which is here joined by the road from
I'erregaux.
[There is a road to Mascara from this
jioint. It crosses the mountainous
chain called by the Arabs the iJjcbcl
Tifroura, and by the French soldiers
Orcvc-ca'ur, and continues along the
side of a valley thickly wooded with
pine and oak trees. The highest part
of the whole route, about 12 kil. be-
yond Oued el-Hammam, is 2200 ft.
above the sea, and commands an ex-
tensive view.]
80 kil. El-Guclna. About a kil. to
the N. of the station, and on the W.
side of the river may be noticed an
Arab house and a marabout. This is
the birthiilace of Abd-el-Kadir.
88 kil. Hammaia Bou Ilnaefia. The
railway here leaves the river, which
takes a westerly direction. On its
banks, about 2^ kil. from the railway
station, are the hot water springs of
this name ; they have a tem)ierature of
]o6' Fahr. , and issue from the base of
a small hilloek. Immediately along-
side are cold water springs, coming
apparently from the same ground ; the
water is slightly saline.
These waters are much appreciated
by the Arabs, and considerably u.sed
by them, but are rarely visite(l by
ICuropcans, except by some of the
JIascara families who occasionally make
a picnic visit.
The baths for Kuropeans and Arabs
are kept (piitc distinct ; they are fairly
commodious, but the caravanserai ad-
joining offers but few temptations to
remain, and unless notice Ik; given
bcfortdiand one can count on little or
nothing for man or beast. On the
manielon whence the springs burst
there is a small natural will, now
partly tilled up. The heat within is
very considerable, and the strong sux-ll
of gas renders a long stay in the well
impo.s.sible. It is common to find
small birds dead at the bottom, evi-
dently suffocated by the gas. A few
hundred yards higher up there is a
Homan burial-ground, some of the
inscriptions still exist ; and still higher
up, though only srparated by a narrow
valley, are the remains of a town 9, prob-
ably a sanitarium attached to the hot
springs. It was walbd round even on
the river side ; the jiostern door and
steps leading to the river are r[uite
distinct. The entrances E. and W.,
and in fact the streets antl somi' of the
hou-ses, are distinguishable. It is be-
lieved that the town was destroyed by
an earthquake. Nothing of sj)ecial
interest has been found. The railway
now mounts a steep gra<lient, ]>assing
by barren clay hills almost without
sign of vegetation. This pa.s.sage was
the most troublesome of all the line,
owing to the nature of the soil. The
works were several times more or less
carried away by heavy rains.
100 kil. At Col tizi the cxten.sivc
]dain of Jif/hris is entered at abnnt 12
kil. \y. of Maseara. "When coloni.sed
this plain should give a heavy traffic
to the line, though the supply of water
is but scanty, and the depth at which
it is found is ver}' variable.
A small village has been constructed
here, and a branch line of 13 kil. leads
to
Mascara. Pop. 14,320. Seat of
general commanding sulidivision, and
of the various subsidiary military and
civil offices.
Mascara is finely situated on a slope
of the plain of K'jhris, LSilQ feet above
the level of the sea, on two small hills
separated from each other by the Wd
of the (Jitfd Toutlman, winch is cro.ssctl
by tiirec stone bridges.
The general aspect is somewhat iin-
276
ROUTK 20. FROM ARZKU TO MASCARA, ETC.
A hjcria
])o.sinf(, giving the idea of an important
and liandsonie town. The Arabic name
of tliL' jilaee is Maaslccni, which is a
corruption of Omm-cl-Asakir, the
JMotlicr of Soldiers. It was built by
the Turks on the site of a Roman
colon)', iind during the first years of
the French conquest was the favourite
residence of the Emir Abd-el-Kader,
wlio was born at El Guetna, 16 kil. S.
of it.
After the rupture of the treaty Des-
michels, Marshal Clauzcl recommenced
hostile operations and marched against
Mascara at the head of a force, one
division of which was commanded by
the Due d'Orleans. After a stout re-
sistance the Arabs were dispersed, and
the French army entered the town on
the 6th of December 1835. The Emir
withdrew to the South, taking his family
and all his wealth, and three days later
ilarshal Clauzel retreated to Orau.
Abd-el-Kader returned after their
departure, but again retired before
General Bugeaud, who finally took pos-
session of the place in 1841. From
this date until 1843 there was constant
warfare between the French and the
Arabs under Abd-el-Kader, who at the
end of that year took refuge in Morocco,
after which many of his followers sub-
mitted to the invaders.
Mascara is now completely a French
town, surrounded by a wall of the
ordinary type, with the risual squares
and rectilineal streets, public buildings,
etc. ; hardly a vestige remains of the
city of Abd-el-Kadir. The only building
of any interest is a disused mosque,
where the great Emir was wont to
preach ; it is now used as a powder
magazine and storehouse for grain.
Another mos(iue was for years used as
a parish church ; it is now occupied as
a school. The barracks and hosijital
occupy a prominent position in the
town.
There is a purely Arab village 3 kil.
to the W.
The principal industry of the place
is wine, which is celebrated throughout
the colony, and eagerly bought up by
agents of Bordeaux houses, especially
the white variety. Vineyards are being
planted in every available spot.
[An excunsion may be made hence to
Tiaret, Frenda, and so by railway to
Relizane. Sec Rte. 22.]
107 kil. Froha, a flourishing' little
village in the midst of the plain,
whence there is an excellent view of
JIascara, and the range of hills on which
that town is situated. The line here
crosses the main road from Mascara to
Saida, and, winding round a low .sjmr
which separates the Plain of OilccI
Traria from that of Eghiis, recrosses
the road, and at 126 kil. arrives at the j
village of Oued Traria, which does not
show much sign of prosperity, and at
present bears the reputation of being
unhealthy. A .short distance farther on |
the valley of the Oucd Saida is entered, '
which is here narrow but well watered
and fertile, and widens out on passing
113 kil. Thiersvillc.
127 kil. Traria. At 13 kil. E. of the
village and at 35 from Mascara are the
ruins oi Benian,Q, the ancient Tasacora.
On ascending the right bank of the Oued
Traria the first thing seen is a mau-
soleum, of which little more than the
podium now exists ; it is of finely cut
stone, almost without cement. The
approach to the city was through an
avenue of tombs, now completely de-
stroyed. The outline of the city is
2)erfectly visible, it was not large, about
220 metres square ; the gates were
guarded by towers.
140 kil. Cliarrier.
145 kil. Franclutti, the most im-
portant village between Mascara and
Saida. Some kilometres higher up
there is a barrage, which serves this
village ; and near it, about 1 kil. E. of
the road, is Ain-cl-Hamiiunn, a pond of
hot saline water with a taste of sulphur,
and with constant bubbling, from the
escape of carbonic acid gas. This is
very much frequented by the Arabs,
especially by the women,
165 kil. Nazreg, a very prosperous
village, of rather recent creation, with
good land and abundant Mater for irri-
gation. The land is here fairly settled
and cultivated all the way to
171 kil. Saida. 2902 inhabitants.
Since the opening of the railwaj' this
place has sprung up from being simply
Sect. II
ROUTE 26. SAIDA
a military post, and the usual small
town or village that always settles
round a permanent military establish-
ment, to be a town of some importance
and with a good deal of movement.
It is pleasantly situatetl between two
small streams, on a slight elevation
looking N. ; altitude 807 metres.
Thanks to the railway made by the
Cie. Frauco-Algerienne and to their
important exploitation of the alfa
lauds to the S., Saida has maile more-
progress during tiie few past years than
any town in the province. A short
distance to the S. of the town the limit
of the Haut Plateaux is clearly defined.
It is here that the old Arab town was
situated. It was occujiied and fortified
by Abd-el-Kader, and held by him for
a considerable time during his struggle
with the Freuch.
The ground here rises so abruptly
that it looks impossilde for the railway
to pass, and for some time it was not
considered practicable ; but to avoid a
very long detour to tlie W. it was de-
cided to face the dilliculty, and by a
system of curves and counter-curves
the ditficulty was surmounted. There
are many Roman reiuains in the neigh-
bourlioodof Saida,0 ; the most important
is 2 kil. distant, above the ravine of
Sidi Salim, exactly opposite the old
Saida of Abd-el-Kader, on a plateau
called Tidcrnalin, whicli forms part of
the first steps of the High Plateaux.
Here is a sort of fortified camp, pro-
tected in part by a natural scarp, and
more strongly fortified by a wall and
bastions, on the narrow isthmus by
which alone access is obtained to it
from the country behind. It was in
fact the oppidam or refuge for the poj)-
idation in case of danger.
[From Saida there is a track to Daya,
whicii lies about SO kil. to the W. ; and
another to Frcnddh and Tiard. 150 kil.
distant to the N.E. ]
182 kil. Ain-cl-ILnljar ; altitude 1021
metres. It is here tliat the Cie. Franio-
Algerienne have established tlieir gene-
ral depot for alfa and their hydraulii.'
presses. The establislmicnt is very
considerable, and capalde of turning
out fully 30,000 tons per annum. l;> -
fore they commenced the district was
utterly uninhabited, but now tliere is a
thriving village. The climate is rather
trying, owing to the great extremes of
heat and cold.
This is the highest jtoint on the line ;
it has an altitude of 1175 metres.
206 kil. Tufaroua; altitude 1150
metres. The culminating point of the
Haut Plateaux has now been pa.ssed,
and the level gradually descends. The
road by the caravanserai of El-ilai to
Gery viile branches olf S. E. To the W.
is Timcllas, and 5 kil. beyond it the
extensive ruins of Mlaisa, 6 ; they cover
an area of about 12 acres, and must have
contained a population of not less than
10,000 pel-sons, probably lk>rber.s, dur-
ing the Roman occupation. The posi-
tion was no douljt chosen on account of
the Oued Timetlas, which afforded it an
abundant water-sujiply. The line has
now for some kilometres passed through
a perfectly sterile country, absolutely
no vegetation during any season.
215 kil. Kralfallah; altitude 1109
metres. The line continues through
sterile country on to
236 kil. Mvdzbah-SJid. A short
branch line to Markoum turns to the
W. The main line continues to
271 kil. El-Krcidi:r, more correctly
El-Khadlhcra, the Green ; altitude 9f<8
metres. This station is on the borders
of the Chott cl C/uryui, the passage of
which has been facilitated by a small
island.
Shortly before reaching this place tlic
marabout and village of Sidi Klialifa
is jia-ssed. The few inhabitants of this
small oasis claim descent from the
Prophet, and the ])rivilege of jta-ssing
everywhere without paying tribute ol'
any kind. Kreider is a very important
strategical po.sition, as it commands the
pas.sage of tlie Chotts. Tliere is an
abundant supply <>f water, such as it is.
It was here tliat Colonrl Malluret,
during the trouliles of 1881, allowed
l)()U Amniama to pa.ss in open da\
iiglit Willi all his plunder and prisoner.-,
many of the latter being European
women. He had been warned of the
reljcl's proximity the day before, and
had a much superior force.
278
ROUTE 26. FROM AUZEU TO MASCARA, ETC.
Algeria
The railway, after passing tlic Cliott,
continues tluougli a perfectly barren
country till it arrives at
352 kil. Mecheria, alt. 1158 metres.
The strategical inipoitance of Alecheria
is very great, but it has no interest for
the traveller. The extremes of heat
and cold make it most trying for the
European constitution.
385 kil. Naania.
420 kil. MckuUs.
459 kil. Ain-Sefra. This is the
]iresent terminus of the line, though
the French look forward with hope to
its eventual continuation to Figuig
within tlie Moroccan frontier, and on
to the 1)anks of the Niger. There is
a fort here where the commaudant-
superieur and garrison reside, and
rounel it a small village is springing
up.
Two interesting excursions may be
made from this place, but the traveller
will require a special recommendation
to the commaudant-superieur.
20 kil. to the E. is the oasis of Tiout,
of the ordinary Saharan type, and 50
and 60 kil. to the S. are those of Mogh-
rar Foukani (the u]iper) and Moghrar
Tahtani (the lower). These are totally
unlike any others iu North Africa ;
they are well-watered valleys with line
scenery, and almost European vegeta-
tion. Peaches, apricots, and all the
fruits of the north flourish in great
perfection.
[From Kralfallab a road branches off
in aS. E. direction, crossing the Chott
el Chergui farther to the E., passing
A'in-Scfsifa, and reaching the military
station of Geryville. This is as far S.
as any held by the French iu Algeria,
being in just the same latitude as El-
Aghouat, to which oasis there is a camel
track about 200 kil. in length. A fort
encloses the barracks for tlie garrison,
and other militarj' buildings. Outside
the fortification is the residence of the
Arab chief, and a few other houses which
are occupied by the colonists. The place
was founded in 1852, on the site of a
small Arab town, El-Biod, so called
fi'om the stream before mentioned.
To the S.W. of Geryville, between
that station and the frontier of Mo-
rocco, is an extensive tract of country
more than 193 kil. in length, consisting
of low sandy hills and plains, which,
from October to April, affords good
and plenteous pasture for the nuilierous
liocks of sheep .and camels belonging
to the nomade tribes. In the month
of May they migrate northwards to
their respective territories, where their
absence has permitted a new crop to
spring up ready for use. Water in
the autumn, winter, and spring, is
abundant in what arc called rjhadirs,
or small lakes, where the rain-water
collects and remains till dried up by
the summer heat. The word (jhadir is
derived from the Arabic root ghadara,
to leave or betray, because the water
is left by the rain, and frequently
betrays those who count too surely on
finding it. In this tract occasional
springs of pure fresh water have formed
green and fertile oases, which appear
like islands iu the midst of the desert.
These are the oases of the Oulad Sidi
Cheikh.
Some of them are of considerable
size, containing many houses, and even
occasionally mosques, and have inhabit-
ants to the number of from 500 to 1200.
They are each governed by a Cheikh
or chief, and a council composed of the
principal leaders of the tribe.
25 kil. E. of Geryville is Aiounct-
hou-Bckr, where Colonel Beaupretre
and the whole of his force were de-
stroyed in 1864. At the first news of
the defection of the Oulad Sidi Cheikh
the garrison of Geryville was rein-
forced, and Colonel Beaupretre, Coni-
mandaut-Superieur of Tiaret, was sent
to observe Ujeliel Amour. Too con-
fident in the fidelity of his cjvum, he
allowed himself to be drawn into a
position where he was assailed by a
large body of insurgents, and both he
and every member of his detachment
were killed. The enemy, however,
sustained great losses, and Si Seliman,
the leader of the insurrection, fell.]
Sect. II
UOUTE 27. FROM ORAN TO BENI SAF, ETC.
27!)
ROUTE 27.
From Oran to Beni Saf, Nemours,
and the Frontier of Morocco.
Froiu Oran to Ain-Temouchent by
rail (see Rte. 23).
TlieiK'c there is a rough roail to I'eni
Saf, jiassiiig hy Caniarata, wliere is an
iron mine, opened out by an English
company, subsecjuently ceded to a
French one, now very little worked
save during the summer months.
A new road passes near the prosperous
village of Les I'rois Marabouts (5 kil.
from Ain-Temouchent).
It derives its name from an Arab
cemetery in which are three consi)iuuous
domed tombs, tlie largest of wliich is
tliat of Sidi Rabah Oulad Klialifeh.
The village was founded in 1880 for
ninety families, and to each a grant
of 30 hectares of unusually fertile
land was given. Among them are a
considerable number of Protestants
from the upper Alps, sent over by the
rrotcstant committee of Lyons, bj'
means of funds collected from friends
of the Vaudois in France and England.
12 kil. Aln-Talba. A village with-
out inhaliitants — speculators bought
up the land round about and so pre-
vented the realisation of the scheme
which the Government had originated.
25 kil. We enter the small valley
of El-Ensor, called "the garden of
Beni Saf." It contains several good
springs of water, part of which are
used for the supjily of I»eni Saf, and
jtart for the irrigation of market gardens.
There are also several establisliinents
for the manufacture of criu vegetal.
32 kil. Beni Saf.
The imn ore of the district has given
rise to a most important industry, and
lias caused tlie construction of a new
liarbour in a part of the coast where
it was greatly needed.
The eonipany to which the great iron
mines of Mokta el-lladid, near Rone,
lielong, ai'i|uired tiie rich mineral basin
of l'>eni Saf, 6 or 7 kil. E. of the
month of the Tafna and of the island
of Rachgoun. They also obtained by
purchase a large tract of country ronml
about, containing nearly 2500 hectares,
so as to prevent competition, or the
establishment of colonists not under
their own control.
Here, under the direction of their own
engineers, and without State aid, the
comjiany have constructed a commo
dious port of 18 hectares in extent, by
means of two artificial moles or break-
waters. Tlie W. mole, alter running
in a northerly direction for 500 mitres,
turns abruptly to the E.N.E. and is
thus prolonged for about 600 metres,
jirotecting the harbour from all winds
from W. to N.E. The mole, which
shelters the harbour from the E., is 300
metres long. The entrance faces that
direction ; it has a width of 150 metres,
and is completely sheltered from E.
winds by the coast.
There is only one loading berth, and
the ore is brought to it direet from the
mines in trucks. The miuimuni depth
of water is 7 metres.
The amount of hematite iron ore
at the Beni Saf mines is immense, it
is worked in open (juarries close to the
sea, and tilted into the vessel's hold ;
from ItjOO to 2500 tons a day can be
put on board. It contains from 58 to
62 per cent of iron and 2 per cent of
manganese.
A new town has sprung up here ;
the population is about 4000, and con-
sists entirely of those connected with
the mines, for the most part Spaniards
and natives of Morocco. Eveiything
belongs to the company ; the land
around is excellent for cultivation and
colonisation, but nothing can be done
without their sanction. The banks of
the Tafna are easily susceptible of irri-
gation, and before long a railway from
Tlemcen will probably terminate here
or in the vicinity.
The harbour is an ojjcn one, and is
to revert to the State at the oi)tion
of the Governnunt in 1895, so it is
probable that there is a considerable
future for the country at no remote
period. Private ves.sels are not ex-
cluded if they can find any freight,
such as alfa, corn, etc., but they have
to pay dues of 2 f. per ton to tlie
company ; they can only u.se the E.
mole.
280
IIOUTIO 27. FROM OUAN TO BENI HAV, KTC.
A Ujeria
Sect. II
ROUTE 27. HONAJi
In 1885 311,000 tons of ore were
exiiortcd, chiefly in British vessels,
to Great Britain, the United States,
France, Holland, and Belgium.
There are worksho2>s at Beni Saf
available for repairs of every kind to
vessels.
The island of Rachgoun lies about
1800 metres from the coast; it is of
great value to the port by breaking the
force of the sea, all bad weather coming
from the W. or N.W.
[Tiiere is a good carriage road to
Tlemcen, distance 63 kii., and a dili-
gence runs every day. It ascends the
valley of the Tafna, an important river,
having a course of 80 kil. through a rich
country, admirably suited for colonisa-
tion. The ]}laiu is feverish, it is true,
but healthy sites fur farms and villages
could be found on the heights on
either bank.
After leaving this valley the road
passes Itcmchi, a village founded in
1881, the residence of the administrator
of the district, situated in the country
of the Zexata, the aboriginal Berber
l>ossessors of Tlemcen; A'in - Fckrina
or Lcs Trots Marabouts, marked by a
palm tree, near which, on a mameloii,
is a tepid sjjring, which forms a small
basin of sweet water, a i)art of which
is used for the supply of Tleiufen, and
lastly, Ifcnnaya, a prosjierous village
surrounded by richly cultivated land
and olive groves. The whole distance
is about 70 kil.]
Proceeding along the coast from
Belli Saf towards the W. we reach the
mouth of the Tafna. On a hill aljove
its right bank are the renuiins of the
fortilii'd camp built by the French
<luring the expedition which led to
the subjugation of this jiart of the
country (see ])p. .^)7, 58). 6 kil. higher
up, ou its left bank, are the ruins of
Takenbrit, (), supposed to be the ancient
Si(jii, i\w lirst capital of Syphax, before
he tiansferred the scat of his govern-
ment to Cirta (Constantine). A mili-
ary column was lately found in the
river here, bearing the word Sitja, and
stating the fact that it was erected at
1 mil(! from that jilace, probably on the
road to Ojrpidum Timici. \v\\ little
now remains of Roman construction :
an Arab city succeeded to it in the 10th
century, which was in its turn aban-
doned after its destruction during the
war between El-Ghania and the Almoa-
hides in the r2th century.
Still farther along, and about half
way between Beni Saf and Nemours
is Honai or Mersa Honai, situated on
a small bay formed liy Cape Nur or
Noun. It may be visited either from
Beni Saf or Nemours. It is about 5
hours' distant from the former i>lace by
land and 'Ih by l)oat. From the latter
town there is a strategic road made by
the engineers in 1845-47 for the purpose
of reducing the Trara district. The
distance is 40 kil. There is no accom-
modation there of any kind.
Ibjsn-Honai is mentioned by El-Bekri
as an important city, the birthidace of
Abel-el-Moumen, first sovereign of the
Almoahides who reigned at Tlemcen
from 1145 to 1248. He was a student
in a Zaouia here, and after his accession
to ]iower he founded a city on the site
of his birth, about ll(j:J, and made it
the port of Tlem(;en. Leo Africanus
also describes it as a small but ancient
city, surrounded by strong and high
walls, freijuented by Venetian galleys,
which did a good trade with Tlem(;en.
The houses were fine and well kept u]>.
with trellises of vine in their courts,
and decorated with rich mosaics.
On the occupation of Oran by the
Spaniards in 1509 it was deserted l)y
its inhabitants, who fled to Tlem(;cn or
Morocco, and it has never been occupied
since.
The concrete walls, strengthened at
short intervals with s<piare towers, arc
still standing, and eneiose an area of
about 7 hectares ; they are 6 or 7
metres in height, and 5 in thickness ;
some of the interior chambers are more
or less entire. In the \V. comer of
the enceinte is the citatlel, on more
elevated ground. On the hill to tin
K. is a watrh-towi-r and the niaralioii;
of Sidi Braham.
The walls are breached in miin\
places, the crowning jiarts have every
where disajtjK'ared, and Imt few traies
of architecture remain. Fragments of
282
ROUTK 27. FROM ORAN TO BEXI SAF, KTC.
Algeria
two of the city gates, however, still
exist, ami show that they were at one
time eiuiched with elegant Moorish
.tracery and tile mosaics.
The interior of the ruins is a charm-
ing tangle of fig trees and oleanders ;
when the writer visited it (May 1886)
the iigs were nearly ripe, the oleanders
were in full lilooni, the air was fragrant
with wild thyme, and there was deep
shade everywhere ; while running water
nearly surrounded the city walls.
The Arabs were accustomed to con-
struct defensive works of concrete ; here
if they had not known it Nature would
have taught them the art. The hills
round the bay are composed of con-
glomerate of indurated sand and water-
worn peTibles, so that the materials for
their work la}^ ready to hand ; they
liad only to break up the soft con-
glomerate and rebuild it in the shape
of city walls.
Until very recently there existed
within the walls a tower 19 metres
high, with a spiral staircase ascending
exteriorly to the top ; this was evidently
the central jiortion of a minaret of which
the exterior walls had disappeared. The
lower portion had been so much worn
away that the superincumbent mass
appeared to rest on the merest point ;
thus it had stood since before the
memory of man, but it was eventually
blown down during a heavy storm in
the beginning of 1884.
Three hours by steam from Beni
Saf is
Nemours, pop. 2591.
This is the last Frencli town on the
coast, and is distant 36 kil. from the
frontier of Morocco. It was called
Djanuia Gha-Muat or Mosque of the
Pirates, under the Turkish government,
and the ruins of the Arab town are still
visible on the hill whicli forms the E.
side of the bay. The opposite hill is
crowned by a lighthouse. The bay in-
cluded between these two points is
sheltered from all winds except from
N.E. to N.W., but as this is the pre-
vailing quarter from which bad weather
comes, it is most insecure, and com-
munication with the shore is only
possible during very fine weather.
There are two curious upright rocks
in tlie bay, known as " Les deux
Freres " {ad, fralrcm of the itinerary
of Antonine), which are picturesfpie in
appearance, and might be made useful
as the limit of a breakwater should a
harbour ever be constructed here.
The country on both sides of the
frontier of Morocco is rich in mineral
wealth : the most important mines
which have hitherto been worked are
those of argentiferous lead at Ghar
Iloiiban, about 80 kil. to the south.
The proximity of vast forests permitted
the ore to be reduced on the spot, and
the pig-lead was sent to Nemours for
exportation. But the premises and
machinery were destroyed by the Arabs
during the insurrection of 1871 ; the
company which owned them failed, and
the place is now deserted, save by a
few Spaniards. There is also a detach-
ment of French troops there to guard
the frontier.
There are other mines of iron, lead,
and calamine, but none are being
worked to any great extent. A con-
siderable trade is being done in alfa
and crin vegetal, and in cereals when
the harvest is abundant.
Nemours is a military station, and
one of the most healthy spots on the
coast. The Transatlantic steamer calls
here on its way to and from Gibraltar.
The frontier of Algeria is not con-
sidered satisfactory by the French
authorities, and its "rectification" is
a contingency never absent from the
official mind. No doubt a great oppor-
tunity was lost when Algeria became
French. The river Molouia, the ancient
MaJua or Molocath, had always been the
natural boundary between Mauritania
Cccsariensis and Tingitana, the present
empire of Morocco. It is difficult to
understand why the commission of 1845
accepted in place of it the Oued Kiss,
separated from it only by the sandy
beach of Tazagaret, hardly 12 kil. in
length ; and how they permitted the
Zattarine Islands, which lie otf the
coast, and which were unoccupied at
the period of tlie conquest, to fall into
the hands of the Spaniards.
It is said that the expedition sent
from Malaga for this purpose arrived
only a few hours before a French one
Sect. II
ROUTE 27. NEMOURS
28:i
from Oran, and tliat the latter was not
a little sur|)rised to find the flag of Spain
already flying there. A strong disjiosi-
tion has been shown of late to rectify
this frontier by following the courses of
the Molouia and the Oued (Jheir, until
the junction of the latter with the Oucd
Msaoura at Igli, and to follow tlic coursi
of this river to the 29" i>arallel of lati-
tuile, so as to include Timimuun within
French territory, as also Oudjda, Jijll,
^>'J"'{J> ■^<^»t Abbis, Kezzas, the terri-
tory of the Belli Snassen, and many
otlier tribes uow subject to Morocco.
SECTION III
REGENCY OF TUNIS.
{Sec Historical Notice. )
The Regency of Tunis, or Tunisia, as
it has now become the fashion to call it,
is simply a prolongation of Algeiia. In
tlie i'ornier, however, the proportion of
hill to plain is much less ; the moun-
tain-ranges nowhere attain so great an
elevation ; the country is less wooded ;
the rainfall is less ; and throughout a
great part of the Regencj' the land is, if
not absolutel)' sterile, capable only of
3'ielding abundant harvests when stimu-
lated to fertility by more than the
usual amount of rain. It is naturally
divided into four tolerably distinct
regions, 1)y parallel lines running Jv.E.
and S.AV. The first is the mountain
region north of the Medjerda, and the
best watered of all, and abounding in
forests of oak. The second, or Tell,
consists of mountains and elevated
plateaux enclosed between the Medjerda
and a parallel line passing through
Hammamet ; the third, or Salicl, is a
region of wide, dreary plains, more or
less productive after copious rains ; and
beyond this is the Sahara.
A survey of the country is in pro-
gress, and a map is being constructed
at the Depot de la Guerre on a scale
of 1,200,000 or2'7 geographical miles
to the inch. Sheets of a provisional
edition are sold at 50 centimes each.
It is extremely difficult to understand
how the Sahel could have supported
the immense population which it must
have contained during the Roman period.
It is covered in every direction by the
ruins not only of great cities but of
isolated posts and agricultural estab-
lishments. In many parts one cannot
ride a mile in a day'.s journey without
encountering the ruins of some solidly-
built edifice.
The Regency corresponds to the most
important part of the ancient pro-
consular province of Africa, excluding
the eastern portion, but comprising the
Byzacena, Zeugitana, and the territorj'
of Carthage.
Space will not admit of a separate
historical sketch ; the Roman domina-
tion has been sufficiently described
elsewhere, and the histoiy of the Mo-
hammedan period is very similar to
that of Algeria. It has been well
summarised by Mr. Broadley^ as con-
sisting of three epochs — first, that of
Power ; second, that of Piracy ; and
third, that of Decay. To these a fourth
may now be added, that of the French
occupation.
Until ISSl the government of Tunis
was an hereditary Beylick. The Bey
acknowledged the suzerainty of the
Porte, coined his money in the name
of the Sultan, received investiture from
him, but paid no tribute. Xow, in all
but the name, the " Regency " of Tunis
is as much a part of French territory
as the neighbouring colony of Algeria,
and though the government is still
carried on in the name of the Bey, that
fiction will be maintained only so long
as it may suit France to do so. In
some respects it is convenient to have
such a government to fall back upon.
1 " The Last Punic War : Tunis Past and
Present," by A. M. Broadley, 1S82.
l^ Galita I.
.C.BIau
J.lt I" iftilka- Sa.lp'.
l\,bhihcAh^ .hhn .Ifii/TMi- .111'
Sect. Ill
TUNIS
285
Jfany tilings can be done in the name
of tlie Bey which would be difficult
under the common law of Fiance ; it
provides an easy and inexpensive
machinery for the government of the
native races ; and it avoids tin? necessity
for the elaborate governmental system
which would become inevitable were
the country proclaimed an integral part
of the French Republic.
The absorption of Tunis into French
territory has long been unavoidable, l)Ut
it was hastened by the active competi-
tion between tiie Kubattiuo Company
and that of the French Railway for tlie
purchase of the small line between the
Goletta and Tunis (see p. 317) ; and
subseqently the Enfida affair (see p.
318) created much sensation, and led
to the active interference of M. lioustan,
the French Consul-CJeneral. Tliis gave
rise to what has sometimes been called
tlie "invention" of the Khomair (see
p. 305), a predatoiy and warlike tribe
on the frontier between Algeria and
Tunis. A French expedition was sent
into their mountains, which was sup-
posed to have for its object the punish-
ment of these marauilei-s. Even in
France, iiowever, it was hardly believed
that this was its ultimate end. No
sooner had the invading force com-
menced its operations than the dreaded
Khomair dropped out of siglit. Tabarca
was ocou[>icd, indeed, but so was Bizerta,
Kef, and other points in the Regency,
which had no connection wliatever
with the Khomair. General Brcurt
advanced on the capital, a treaty was
presented to the Bey for signature,
and two hours were allowed to him
to sign a document involving the
virtual abandonment of his country
to France, under the guise of a Protec-
torate.
The first military operations were
soon over. It was on the 4th April
that the French ministers announced
their intention to chastise the Kliomair;
on the 12th of May the treaty of the
Kasr-es-Saeed was signed ; and on the
8th of June tiie Bey issued a decree
constitutingtlic representative of France
at Tunis the sole medium of communi-
cation between himself and the repre-
sentatives of foreign powers, and pub-
licly and officially notifying the de-
finitive protectorate of France in
Tunis.
XI. Roustan, who had been mainly
instrumental in getting up the expedi-
tion, was made Minister- Resident of
Fiance and of tiic Bey, and virtual
ruler of the country. The sensibilities
of Italy were deeply wounded, l)ut none
of the powers thought it to their in-
terest to opjiose this higli- handed
lU'oceeding. Moliammedan fanaticism
was stirreil from Tripoli to Morocco ;
the Bey lost all autliority among his
people, who refused to obey a ruler
who had delivered them over to the
foreigner ; and wlien the expeditionaiy
force was somewhat prematurely re-
called, a general state of insurrection
ensued, and the French found them-
selves obliged to con((uer the country
city by city and tril)e by tribe, and to
send an immense force from the mother
country to attain this end.
The holy city of Kerouan was taken,
and columns marched all over the
country to the very borders of Tripoli.
A strong post was established in the
heart of the Kiioniair rountiy, ami now
every important town and strategical
position is in the military occupation
of the French.
Mohammed es-Sadik Bey died at his
palace of Kasr-es-Saeed on the 28th
October 1882, and was quietly succeeded
by his brother Sidi Ali, the present
Bev.
On the 31st December 1883 Her
Majesty Queen Victoria, by an Order
in Council, abandoned her consular
jurisdiction in Tunis, with a view to
English subjects becoming justici-
able by French tribunals, under the
same condition as French subjects ;
but, witii this exception, all tiie old
treaties with the Regency still remain
in force.
Although thecountry is still governed
in the name of the Bey, tlie French
Resident-(!eiieral i.s the actual ruler of
the country. He is declared to lie the
depository of tlie jiowers of tiie Frencli
Republic in the Regency ; the com-
mander of the land ami sea forces, and
all administrative services arc ]>laced
under his authority.
28(i
TUNIS
Tunis
THE GOLETTA.
The Goletta, or Port of Tunis, i)op.
3000.
Tlie name is a corruption of the
Arabic words, Halk el-Oued, or Throat
of the Canal, an artificial passage cut-
ting the town into two portions, and
communicating between the sea and tlie
lake of Tunis. In the northern half
are the town, fort and ])attery ; in the
southern, the Bey's summer palace, the
old seraglio, arsenal, custom-liouse and
prison. Vessels are com])elled to an-
chor in the roadstead, as there is not
sufficient depth of water in-shore, but
they are tolerably well sheltered from
all winds except that coming directly
from the N. and N.E.
The boat service has been greatly
imjiroved of late. Boatmen used for-
merly to charge pretty much what they
pleased ; a tariff, however,'; has now
l)een established, fixing the charge per
passenger at 1| f. ; for a trunk or large
jjortmanteau the charge is ^ f. extra ;
a whole boat costs 9 f.
Steam launches belonging to the
Transatlantique Company ply between
their vessels and the shore.
The town, like Tunis, has been con-
structed entirely with the materials of
ancient Carthage. The fortress which
defends it has been frequently besieged,
the most celebrated occasion being that
by Charles V (see p. 36).
The Place of the Goletta extends along
the interior face of the fort, and con-
ducts to the railway station ; it is
bounded by shops and cafes, where the
traveller will be glad to seek refresh-
ment while waiting for the departure
of the train.
The town is extending rapidly in the
direction of Carthage, the new quarter
being much in favour with the Tunis-
ians in summer, on account of sea-
bathing. There is, however, very little
trade carried on.
The ordinary means of reaching
Tunis is by the Italian railway. In
summer eight trains run daily each
way, four direct, and four call at the
Marsa Station ; in winter the trains are
reduced to five, of which two only call
at the Marsa. The distance is 17 kil.
Tliis railway was originally con-
structed by an English company, and
when it was determined to wind this
up, a great struggle took place iietwecn
the French. liune-Guelma and the
Italian Kubattino Com[)anies for its
possession. Both parties agreed that
the railway, with its plant, should be
put up to auction in the Vice-Chan-
cellor's chambers in London ; it was
adjudged to the Rubattino Company
for the sum of £165,000.
CITY OF TUXIS.
The city of Tunis stands on an
isthmus separating two salt lakes ; that
to the N.E. communicates with tlie .sea
at the Goletta and is called El-Buhira
or the Little Sea by the natives ; it is
about 18 kil. in circumference, but
nowhere more than 1 or 2 metres in
depth. As it has been the receptacle
for all the sewage of Tunis during forty
centuries, its bottom is covered with
a layer of fetid mud which frequently
emits a most pestilential odour. In
the centre is an island named Chckcli,
which contains the picturesque ruins
of a mediaeval fort.
It is proposed to dig a ship canal
from the Goletta to the IMariua of
Tunis, and to create a port in the lake
there. The canal will have a length of
12 kil., with a depth of 7 metres, and
will be excavated by large di-edging
machines.
The "Societe de Construction des
Batignoles" have commenced the works,
and are (1889) pushing them on actively.
It is expected that the whole will be
completed by 1894.
The other lake to the S.W. is the
Sebkha es-Sedjoumi.
Tunis was certainlj' known to the
ancients by its present name, even
before the foundation of Utica and
Carthage ; it was probably founded by
native Africans, and not, like those
cities, by Phcenician colonists, iloham-
medan authors say that it was at one
time called Tarchkh ; it was also called
El-Halhcra, the Green, on account of
the beauty of its gardens.
It was originally surrounded by a
wall, but a gieat part of this has now
Kinli'.iUMi. J.ibu'loD i To , Ul , l.oi.iii.n.
Sect. Ill
CITY OF TUNIS
287
disappeared. The Marine Gate is quite
isolated, and the walls on each side
only exist in the name of the street,
Hue dcs Ituiiiparts.
The otlur gates are the Bab el-
Ilathcra^ Bah Ahd-es- Salem, and Bah
cs-Sadjen, towards the Bardo Palace
and the Mauouba : the Bub Sidi
Adulla under the Citatlel ; the Bah
Sidi Ahwa on the road to Zaghouan ;
and the Bah cs-Soueka on that leading
to Susa and the coast. In additinn to
the enceinte there are three forts built
in the time of Charles V, called re-
sjiectively Bordj Manouhia, Bordj Fil-
filn, and Bordj er-Rchta. The last of
these is a fine specimen of mediaeval
military architecture.
Tunis is commanded by two hills in
its immediate vicinity, namely, Sidi hcl
Ilassati to the S. , and the Brlvedtre to
the N. The fortress which crowns the
former belongs to a time far anterior
to the Bordj cr-ReUa, and its position
is unrivalled.
The Ikdvedere was the first position
occupied by the French troops, and
the remains of their entrenched camii
on the sunnnit are still visilde.
Nothing is more attractive to the
stranger than the Native Bazaars,
which, amidst all the maidfold changes
and ameliorations which have taken
]>lace around them, still retain their
original character. They are narrow
and tortuous, well shaded by the
houses themselves, and frequently
covered with planks or matting. The
trades generally keep together, so that
the purchaser has the advantage of
comparing the various articles of the
same sort in one i)lace. The princii)al
are the Souk el-Altarin, or market of
the perfumers; Souk cl-Farnshin,
where carpets and all manner of gaily
colourcjd garments are exposed for
sale ; Souk cl-Scrajin, or bazaar of the
saddlers, full of splendid embroidery
on leather; Souk ct-Turk, where arms
are sold ; Souk cl-Bcij, Souk cl-Bclad,
and numberless other.s.
The Brsidcnt Giniral lias expressed
his determination to preserve this part
of the town intact, and to create a new
tity between the maiine gate and the
lake. This has already made great
progress ; a wide avenue bordered by
stately houses, including the French
Residency, the principal hotel, the
Iioman Catholic Cathedral, banks,
])ublic ofiices, the inevitable cafes, etc.,
has already been constructed, and wide
streets arc gradually branching olf
from it in various directions. In one
of these is a fine market-place, and the
railway company luis laid out ]iart of
its land as a ]>ublic garden. Un the
N. side of the Kuropeau quarter is an
extensive JIaltese quarter, called MitUa
es-Si(ihcira, or Little .Malta, inhabited
principally by the quiet and industrious
natives of that island.
The perimeter is about 8 kil., but the
area is not all inhabited. A great deal
of si>ace is occupied V)y cemeteries,
ruined houses, and ground not built
over.
The population of the Regency is
stated to be about 1,110,000, composed
as follows : —
French . 16,000
Italians . . 20,000
Maltese . . 12,000
Other Europeans . . 3,000
Jews .... 40,000
Mohammedans . . 1,019,000
Total . 1, 110,0 00
This, however, is a mere estimate ;
nothing like a regular census has ever
been made. The city of Tunis is sup-
posed to contain 20,000 Europeans,
:iO,000 Jews, and 130,000 Moham-
meilaus.
The costume of the Jews in Tunis
dill'ers greatly from that which used to
be adopted by them in Algiers before
they became " French citizens," or
from what actually prevails in Con-
stantino and other less Eurojieanised
parts of Algeria. It is always very
trying for tlie fair sex to appear in
skin-tight trousers and short jackets,
but the ungracefulncss of this is exag-
gerated bj' the remarkable corpulence
which distinguishes the .lewish ladies
in Tunis, and which "is supposed to
constitute one of their most attractive
features.
The Maltese are liere a numerous
and most valuable class of the com-
288 TU
iinniity, tliey work lianl, live abstemi-
ously, and fie(iuciitly succeed in
collecting a fiiir coni{ictence with which
to retire to their native isle.
Tlie lower part of the city and the
faubourj^s nearest to it are occupied by
Christians and Jews ; tin; ujijicr part
is reserved for the I\Iolianimeilan popu-
lation, and is built in the form of an
amphitheatre crowned by the Kasba.
In front of it is a square, called Souk
d-Islam, containing the Dar-el-Bey and
two handsome rows of shops built in a
pseudo-Moorish style, with an astro-
nomical clock in the middle, showing
the hour, the day of the month and
the moon's age. Enclosed within these
four sides is a small garden.
The interior of Tunis presents a
confused network of streets and lanes,
one or two of which, wider than the
others, run nearly through its whole
length. A few years ago these were
almost impassable, owing to the mud
and filth in winter and the dust in
summer, but of late years considerable
municipal improvements have been
carried out, and for a native city they
are remarkably clean.
The streets also are well lighted with
gas ; nearly 1000 public lights have
been placed in the town.
English Church. — The English church
of St. Augustine is only a few minutes'
walk from the Hotel de Paris ; a site
was granted by the Bey, and a neat
little iron building, lined with wood,
was erected by subscription. The E.
window was put in by the English
community in memory of John Howard
Payne.
Roman Catholic Churches. — The
Roman Catholic Church in N. Africa
is governed by one of its most distin-
guished prelates, Cardinal Lavigerie.
He was for many years Archbishop of
Algiers, but in the beginning of 1885
the Pope re-established the archi-
cpiscopal see of Carthage, and the
palliii7n of the new dignity was con-
ferred with much solemnity upon him
at Algiers. He is also Primate of all
Africa.
The Provisional Cathedral is situated
in the Avenue de la Marine, oj ^.*'''
the French Residency. Tlieri' ^^
large church in the Capuchin Cdt-
\{. Sidi Mourgana ; this was origiii"..
founded by the Onler for the Rede '
tion of Captives in 1024, but the chuf,''
at least has Ijeen entirely rebuilt .sinci
In the establishment of the Freres dt
la doctrine Chretienne, R. Toweela, is a
very ancient chapel, the first one used
by free Christians in the city, ami till
very lately the parish church.
Religious Communities. — There arc
already many religious communities
established in the Regency. The Uamei
de Sion have at Tunis a very superior
establishment for the education of girls
and boys under seven years. The
sisters of St. Joseph have nine estab-
lishments ; two at Tunis, and others
at the Goletta, Bizerta, Susa, Monastir,
Mahadia, Sfax and Djerba. The sister.'
of the Mission d'Afrique have houses a1
Beja and the Marsa. The brothers oi
the Doctrine Chretienne have three
schools at Tunis and one at the Goletta.
There is also a large asylum for aged
people kept by the Petites Sceurs da
Pauvres, just outside the town, bej-ond
the barracks and the Normal School.
There is also a Greek Church, which
for two centuries was under British
protection.
English Cemetery.— The Protestant
cemetery of St. George, belonging tc
England, but used by other Protestant
nations, was formerly situated beyond
the inner walls of the town ; these
have been removed, as the city has
greatl}^ extended in that direction, and
it is now surrounded by houses in the
quarter called Malta es-Scghcira. The
keys can be obtained at the British
Consulate. It contains the gi-aves ol
several English Consuls-General — Mr.
Campion, 1661 ; Richartl Lawrence.
1750 ; James Trail, 1777 ; Sii- Thoma?
Reade, 1849. The oldest gi-ave is that
of Samuel Webbe, a merchant, whc
died 6th October 1648. The most
interesting was that of John Howard
Payne, Consul for the United States ol
America, who died at Tunis on the 1st
:<
?'
'\ II
CITY OF TUNIS
289
">- 852. A monument was erected
ir by "his grateful country," ami
■rded the fact that "His fame as
-et and dramatist is well known
: rever the English language is
Ken, through hiscelebrate<l ballad of
-iome, Sweet Home,' and his popular
ragedy of ']}rutus,' and other similar
reductions. "
On the 5th January 1883 the body
'as disinterred and carried to the
Jnited States ; it was consigned to its
nal resting-place in Oakliill Cemetery,
)eorgc Town, Washington, with much
olemnity, on the 9th June 1883. A
lonument has been erected at Tunis
n the spot where the grave was,
iimilar to that over the new grave
11 America, the expense of the whole
iiroceediiig having been defrayed by Mr.
yorcoran of Washington.
, As all intramural interments are now
prohiliili-(l, this cemetery is closed, and
new I'mtcstant cemetery, granted by
he municipality, has been opened out-
ide the town, next to the R. C. one.
Itoinan Catholic Cemeteries.— There
re two, — the old one, attached to the
athedral, and a new and larger one
aUside the Bab el - Hathera. Tiie
ormcr is now closed ; in it is an ancient
hapcl, su{>posed to have been that of
he Christian slaves. On the altar was
. consecration stone bearing the date
659 ; this has been removed to St.
jouis. Underneath are vaults where
in immense number of colllns were
bund, amongst them was that of the
Tather of M. de Lesseps, who died here
IS Consul-General of France in 1832 ;
his also has been removed to St.
.aoiiis.
This chajiel is perhaps the one men-
;ioned by Pere Dan (1635), who says:
' At Tunis there arc various cha[)els in
-he Hagnos, but especially there is a
rery fine ami large one, that of St.
intoinc, a little outside the town,
■vhere all the Christian slaves and free
nen may go witliout himlrance to hear
nass. The French Consul has generally
I jiriest and a chai)lain. There is no
place in Barbary where the jiriests and
those connected with the church are
more free, and where the Christian
religion is more tolerated than Tunis."
[Alijcria.]
Fublic Instniction. — In 1876 Moham-
med es-Sadik Hey during the ministry
of Kheir-ed-din Pacha, created a college
called Medressa Sadikia, in order
to educate youth for administrative
functions. A great part of tlie confis-
catrd property of the former minister.
Si Mustafa Khasnadar, was ap]iropri-
ated for this j)urpose. On the fall of
Kheir-ed-din the college fell into a
condition of complete neglect, and it
was only after the French occuj)ation
that it was completely reorganised,
and placed under the control of the
<l('partmcnt of public instruction, of
which M. Machuel is director. The
instruction consists of courses of the
Aral)ic language and literature, French
and Italian, mathematics, phj-sics, his-
tory and geography. It receives 150
native students gratuitously, who are
j)rovided with their morning meal ; 50
of these reside entirely within its walls,
and are clothed and provided with every
necessary.
College of St. Charles. — This is one
of the most useful of the many works
inaugurated by the Cardinal Lavigerie.
In 1875 the "white fathers," Peres
jMissionnaircs d'Afriqtte, were brought
l)y his Eminence from Algiers to Car-
thage as guardians of the chapel of St.
Louis. There the first school was
o[)ened, but it was subsequently con-
verted into a seminaire, ami the college
was transferred to its present site near
the cathedral, and named ^7. Charles
after the saint whose name the Cardina.
bears. About 240 youths of all nations
are educated there ; French, Italian,
Maltese, Jews and Mohammedans live
together in perfect harmony, and pre-
pare the way for what the French ever
regard as a future possibility, complete
assimilation.
The Norimd Sehool, or ColUge Alaoui,
was founded in 1881 by the ]iresent
Bey, with the consent of the French
(tovernment, for the purpose of educat-
ing a class of teachers capable of sjjread-
ing the French language and intlucnce
in the interior of the Kegencj-. The
buildings were originally commenced
liy the Khasnailar for a_ medressa; they
are situated in one of the highest and
I most healthy parts of the city, com-
290
Tunis
iiiaiidiiig a splendid view in every
direction.
Library and Miiseurn. — A ^^ Service
des AntiquMs, Beaux Arts et Mumi-
ments hldoriqucs," lias been instituted
under the direction of M. Eene de la
Blancherc, having for its object the
study and preservation of historical
monuments and works of art throughout
the Regency. A museum has been
opened in the old Hareem of the Bardo,
the great treasure of which is the
famous Mosaic pavement from Susa,
one of the largest and finest extant.
This is well worthy of a visit (see
p. 297). The Library is provisionally
in one of the rooms of the Ecole
Normale.
Mosques. — Throughout the Regency
of Tunis, excejit, strange to say, in the
sacred city of Kerouan, Christians are
rigorously excluded from entering any
of the mosques. The principal one in
Tunis is the
Bjamda ez-Zeitouna, " Mosque of the
olive tree," a sort of university, where
a vast number of youths receive a
religious education. It was founded
by Hassan el-Ghessani el-Oudjdi in a.d.
698, under the reign of the Khalife
Abd-el-Malek ben Merouan, on the
site, it is said, of the cell of a Christian
anchorite. It is in the very heart of
the city, surrounded on ever}"" side by
bazaars, so that a view at least may
be had of the central court from various
directions.
DJavida el -Kasha, the "Mosque of
the Kasba," built about 1232. It was
formerly entered from that citadel,
now it has been walled off from it to
prevent intrusion on the part of the
soldiers.
Bjamda Sidi Mahrez, in the quarter
of the Bab es-Souika, distinguished by
its large dome surrounded by smaller
cupolas. This building enjoys the
privilege of sanctuary. There are in-
numerable other mosques, medrassas or
colleges, zaouias, and tombs of Moham-
medan saints. The mausoleum of the
Beys, called Turhct el-Bcy, is situated
near the Souk el-Belad; it is distin-
guished by its green tiled domes ;
the exterior is decorated by plinth,
pilasters and entablature of rose-col-
oured marble, sculptured in the Italian
style.
Kdtive Troo'ps. — The Tuni.sian army
has been reduced to a single battalion
of honour for the Bey, but the soldiers
are well-diilled and e<juipped, and are
no longer to be seen bare -footed and
knitting stockings when on guard.
The Kaska, which forms one side of
the square in which the Dar el-Bey is
situated, at one time contained the
ancient palace of the Bey, and im-
mense barracks for the accommodation
of Janissaries, as well as bagnios for
Christian slaves. It was here that these
rose on their keepers when Charles V
was attacking Tunis, and greatly con-
tributed to his success. (See }>. 37.)
The Spaniards sti-engthened it during
their occupation, and built the aque-
duct behind the Bardo to supply it with
water.
Now all the old buildings have been
demolished, and handsome and com-
modious barracks constructed for the
use of the French troops ; nothing but
the exterior wall of the ancient Kasba
The Dar el-Bey, or town palace, is
well worthy of a visit ; the lower rooms
are occupied as public offices, and are
quite uninteresting, but the traveller
can easily obtain permission to view
the jirivate apartments of the Bey.
His Highness holds receptions here
every Saturday, driving over from his
residence at the Marsa for the purpose.
Some of the older rooms, built by Ha-
mouda Pasha about a century ago, are
perfect gems of Jloorish decoration, equal
to anything in the Alhambra. The prin-
cipal are the outer court, on each side of
which is a bedroom for an officer in
waiting, called Beit Dhabit el-Asda.
The Beit JFuzir el-Kebir, or chief
minister's apartment, splenditUy de-
corated ^^-ith tiles and Kulsh hadida
work, and with a richly painted and
gilt ceiling. The Beit cl-Bcy, or audi-
ence chamber, leading to his private
bedroom. The Beit el-Fctoor, or dining-
room, with walls of coloured marble
Sect. Ill
WALKS ROUND TUNIS
291
and red granite from Carthage, and a
roof blazing with gold and colours ; and
lastly, the £cU cl-IIookan, or Hall of
Judgment, with a domed roof of the
most delicate plaster arabesque work.
A long passage, poor in comparison
with the more ancient part of the
building, but comparatively' inoffensive,
leads to an immense suite of state
rooms, painted in the style of a French
cafe ; the walls hung witii red damask ;
gilt chairs and Louis XVI consohs
ranged around ; everything that is rich
and expensive of its kind, but an out-
rage on the incomi)arable beauty of the
older rooms.
The delicate and intricate arabesque
plaster work called A^n/,-sh hadida, for
wliich Tunis was once so celebrated, is
now almost an extinct art, and is being
replaced by European decoration, sucli
as would aj)pear tawdry on a cheap
tea-tray.
In this palace Queen Caroline re-
sided during her stay in Tunis, in
1816 ; as did at a subsequent period
the brother of the Emperor ^Villianl 1.
of Germany and his daughter, and later
still three of our own royal princes
were welcomed here by the Bey.
Walks round Tunis.
From the square of the Kasba a very
jileasant walk is to the liab Sidi Abdulhi
esli-Sherif, near which the water iVdm
Zaghouan enters the town through a
handsome fountain. Here a cistern has
lately been constructed capable of con-
taining 15,000 cubic metres of water.
Outside the gate there is a line pano-
ramic view of the hills on the east side of
the harbour, Zaghouan with its ruined
aqueduct on the hoiizon ; the liardd,
two picturestjue Sjianish Ibrts ; and
lastly, coming round again to the jioint
of departure, the site of Carthage and
tlie town of Tunis, in which the most
conspicuous object is the many-domed
mosque oi 2>j(tin<Ki Sidi Mtthrez.
The traveller may continue his walk
between the old Ibrts ; all arounil them
are Silos, or Jl<d>tas, as they are liere
called ; underground magazines of a
bottle -like shape for storing grain,
fi'om which the castle obtains its name
of Bordj er-Rahta. Thence he can join
the IJardo road, pass Bub at-Sattjan,
from which there is a good view of the
Spanish aqueduct on tlie left, also Bab
es-Sclam, and so home to his hotel
through the European (piarter.
Another beautiful view of the town
is from the hill called by the Eunqieans
Helveilere, to the northwaid of the cit}'.
The panorama of the city slojiing up-
wards towards the Kasba, and of the
lake and surrounding country, is very
fine.
A finer view still is from Bordj Ali
lluis, on the S.E. of tlie town, on au
elevated hill opposite that on which
the tomb of Sidi Bel Jlusmn is situated.
Leave Tunis by the Bab Ahva, and pass
through the cemetery just out-sidc of it.
A carriage can drive nearly to the top.
The fort is occupied by a small detach-
ment of artillery, ami the traveller can
easily obtain permission to mount and
see the view from the terrace.
EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGH-
BOURHOOD OF TUNIS.
To CAnTHAGE AND THE MaRSA.
Naturally the fii-st excursion that the
traveller will desire to make is to the
site of the mighty Carthage — "dives
opum, studiiscjue asperriina belli." He
may go by train, the station of Cat thage
being within half an hour's walk of tin
chajjel of St. Louis; but the preferable
course is to hire a carriage and return
by the Marsa ; the whole may be done
in five or six hours.
Carthage. — Carthage is .said to havi
lieen founded by a I'luenician colony
from Tyre, about n.c. 852. They gavi
to it the niime <t( Kart-J/adac/, tlie new
I ity, in opposition to I'tica, the ohl.
'i'his name became in Greek Carchcdun,
and in Latin Car/haijo.
For the mytiiological accotint of it-
foundation and its ancient history, so
Historical Notice, j). 22.'
1 Consult alHo tlie valiial)Ic work of R. Bor-
wortli Sinitli, " Cnrtliat;t' nnd tlie C'artliagotii
:ins." Loudon : ^Longmans, Green, and Cu..
1S87.
292
EXCURSIONS FROM TUNIS
Tunis
It continueil in uiiinteiTn])ted pros-
perity and glory for upwards of 700
years, till its destruction by 1'. C. .Scipio,
li.c. 146. Thirty years later it was
colonised by C. Gracchus, raised to a
considerable condition of prosperity by
M. Antoninus and P. Dolabella, and
rebuilt with much magnificence by
Augustus. It subsequently became the
chief seat of Christianity in Africa, and
many of its most splendid buildings
were destroyed with the view of rooting
out the last traces of paganism. Its
utter destruction, however, did not
commence before the Arab invasion in
697, since when one generation after
another has continued the operation
with unremitting zeal ; even as late as
the time of St. Louis it still existed as
a city ; and the narrative of the early
Arab historians, such as El-Bekri and
El-Edrisi, prove that certain important
buildings were still existent and almost
intact. But now nothing remains of
the great city save a few cisterns and
some shapeless masses of masonry ; all
that is valuable has been carried off
either for the construction of the modern
city of Tunis or to enrich the public
buildings and museums of Europe ; and
now indeed there can be no doubt that
in very truth
" Deleta est Carthago."
The situation of the city was singularly
well chosen, on the shores of a magni-
ficent and well-sheltered bay, forming
the southern part of an immense gulf,
and sheltered from the N. \V. and W.
by a projecting cape. Carthage con-
sisted, properly speaking, of three dif-
ferent towns, all enclosed within the
same wall ; namely — Byrsa, the citadel ;
Cotho'ii, which included the port and
that part of the town occupied by the
merchants ; and thirdly, Magarla. The
first occupied the site of the present
cJiapel of St. Louis, the secomi the
lowland between it and the Goletta,
and the third stretched in rear of
both, from the banks of the lake to
the sea-shore, below the village of Sidi
Bou-Saeed.
Chapel of St. Louis. — On the Sth of
August 1830 a ti-eaty was concluded
between Charles X and the Regency
of Tunis, containing the following
article : —
" We cede in perpetuity to H.M. the
King of France a site in the Miialaka
to erect a religious monument in honour
of Louis IX on the spot where that
Prince died ; we engage to respect and
to cause to be respected this monument,
consecrated by the Emperor of France
to the memory of one of his most illus-
trious ancestors."
It is difficult to determine the exact
spot where St. Louis died on the 25th
of August 1270, but the spot selected
as the site of the chapel was the Byrsa
itself, to which place, according to
Joinville, St. Louis retreate<l after his
defeat before Tunis, the better to be able
to superintend the embarkation of his
troops and watch the movements of the
enemy. Perhaps the natural desire to
occupy so commanding a position was
not altogether absent from the mind of
the astute French Consul who was em-
powered to make the selection.
Regarding the style and architecture
of the chapel the less said the better.
Above the entrance is the following
inscription : —
LoDis Philippe, Premier Roi des Fran-
CAIS, A ERIGE CE monument EN L'aN 1841, SUR
LA PLACE on expira le Saint Louis, son
AIEUL.
Within the chapel has been interred
the remains of the Consul-General who
negotiated the ti-eaty, father of the
celebrated Count Ferdinand de Lesseps ;
thej', together with the original tomb-
stone which once covered them, having
been translated from the old chapel
near the Cathedral at Tunis.
Close to St. Louis niaj"- be seen a
neat little chapel, built principally for
the use of ^laltese pilgrims, and out of
compliment to them called by the
Maltese name of Notre Dame de la
McUJut. It contains three stained glass
windows in honour of Saints Augustine,
Cyprian, and Monica, and two paintings
to imitate windows dedicated to Saints
Perpetua and Felicitas. Attached to
it is a Carmelite convent, a branch of
that at Algiers, founded in April 1885,
and in immediate proximity to both the
Mohammedan Marabout of Sidi Saleh.
It is one of Cardinal Lavigerie's most
Sect. Ill
CAIITIIAGK
293
cherished projects to erect a catlieih-al
worthy of the French nation on this
spot, to tliem hallowed ground, and to
restore the great city, once the Queen
of Africa and the rival of Kornc itself.
The Catliedral has indeed been coni-
])ktcd, and in it is the tomb of the
Cardinal, consecrated by himself, which
all well-wisliers of Africa trust may long
remain untenanted, but the rise of Car-
thage would mean the fall of Tunis ;
it is didicult to divert commerce from
its ancient channel, and hard to devote
so important a city to decay.
Behind the chapel is a college for
priests, the Seminairc, not only of the
"white fathers," who wear the Arali
burnous and are destined for missionary
labour, but for the ordinary jjriesthooil
of the diocese. The novices of the
former order reside at the Maison
Carree, near Algiers.
In the lower story of this building is
the Salic de St. Louis, on the walls of
which are paintings representing scenes
in the Saint's passage and death at
Tunis. The Pope's Legate throughout
the series is the portrait of Cardinal
Lavigerie. Below are marble tablets
containing the arms of descendants of
French Crusaders who contributed to-
wards the expense of the Cardinal's
various works at Carthage.
Within the enclosure of St. Louis is
a most interesting Museum formed by
the indefatigable explorer and learned
archaeologist, the Rev. I'cre Delattro,
one of the white fathers and chaplain
of St. Louis, who has been occupied in
exploring the site of Carthage for many
years under the auspices of Cardinal
Lavigerie. It is ojien to the jjublic on
Sunday, Monday, Thursday, and Satur-
day, from 2.:'0 fo (i r. ji., excepting
during the liours of divine service, whicli
are usually between 2.30 and 3.30 i'..M.
Permission to see it can, however, always
be obtained by a pxssing stranger on
written application to the director.
There is no dilliculty in conununicafing
with him, as there is a post anil telegra]ili
office within tlie walls of St. Louis.
An immense number of fragments of
sculptured stones, statues, Punic and
Latin inscrijitions, etc., have been built
into the walls around. Of tlie 500
Punic inscriptions, nearly all are votive
tablets, a few only being funereal ; they
bear many different .symbols, such as
the ujiright hand, the disc of Baal, th'-
crescent of Astartc, palm trees, i-am>,
etc., and inscriptions which vary very
little from the following formula: — To
(he (jrcul kuly, Tunitli Ftii Baal, and to
the Lord Bital Mammon, vow made by
. . . , son of ... , son of ... , that
their jrrayas may he heard.
Biial was the malignant deity, rejoic-
ing in human sacrilices, and Astartc
the Cartliagenian Venus, identical with
" the abomination of the Sidonians."
I'he Christian inscriptions generally
contain little more than the name of
j the deceased, generally with the e\-
pressions />t /«»ty' ; Fidel is in pace ; In-
iwcens in. pace, etc.
The most important objects in the
Collection are contained in a large hall.
The Punic period is here represented
by terra-cotta vases, lamj>s of the most
jirimitive fomis, iron and bronze imjilc-
ments, and some really interesting and
: valuable inscriptions. The rest of the
i cnlk'ction consists of objects of the
Koman period, |iagan as well as Chris-
tian. Amongst the most curious is a
cippus containing bas-reliefs of the
l)rinci|ial occupations of a Koman lady's
day — toilet, work, and reading. There
is a large collection of lam]is, .some con-
taining subjects from heathen myth-
ology, others from the < dd Testament,
such as the colo.ssal bunch of grajies,
Daniel in the lions' den, and the seven-
branched candlesticks ; while many arc
distinctly Christian, and contain crosses
of many shapes, and the Saviour in vari-
ous characters.
One very interesting terra-cotta toy
re]iresents a man playing an orgjin,
which is worked by hydraulic iiower.
A glass case contains Carthiiginian
medals, enabling us to follow tiie for-
tunes of that city from it.s foundation
to the Arab invasion, and even to the
crusade of St. L(»uis in 1270. and the
exjiedition of Charles V in KKio.'
There are many tombstones from the
1 Tlic inuHCUin wnii broken into in 18S8, and
nonrly tliiMvliolt" cDllfclion of ruins an<l nic<lal8
iif iinstiiiialilf value, was Htnlcn ; fi>rt\iiiatfly
many ilupliratcs were iirvserved el.scwherc.
294
EXCDRSIONS FROM TUNIS
Tunis
Conietery of Slaves of the Lst and 2il
centuries ; these throw <^uite a new
liglit on the eini)loynient of the slaves
and freedmen of the iin]ierial house,
and of tlie constitution of the tabida-
rium of Carthage, and of the jirincipal
attributions of public functionaries.
There are touching e])ita])hs, such as
that which Ostaria Frocula caused to
be engraved for her husband Aclius,
who lived 76 years, and of whom she
had no complaint to make, De quo
nihil qupsta est. Finally, there are
importnnt Christian inscriptions ob-
tained from the basilica, recording the
names of bishops, priests, deacons and
readers, which, were they not so seri-
ously mutilated, would have been of the
greatest service towards clearing up tlie
history of the early African church.
The Bjo-sa was the first point fortified
by the Carthaginians, and around it
arose by degrees the houses, public
buildings, streets, etc., of this great
city. It is the last spur of the natural
range of hills which extend westward
from Sidi Bou-Saeed, on wdrich were
grouped some of the most celebrated
public buildings, such as the Palace of
Dido, the Temple of iEsculapius, the
cisterns, etc. The walls of the fortress
themselves were so constructed as to
serve as stables for elephants, horses,
etc.
The Palace of Dido. — The walls sup-
posed to be those of the Palace of Dido
are to the N.E. of the Byrsa. On
leaving the chapel the path right ahead
is followed for about 100 yards, after
which, turning to the left, a few ves-
tiges are found supposed to be the
remains of the Palace of Dido, which
the Carthaginians subsequently trans-
formed into a temple, and which was
again rebuilt by the Romans. The
view from this spot is grand and exten-
sive. Dido may well have seen from it
the departure of ^neas and his Trojans,
and followed them with her eyes as she
burnt upon her funeral pile. She
might have done this had not the
fiction of this gracious queen been
entirely effaced by the labours of
modern archseologists. Carthage was
founded by a band of hardy navigators,
who placed the city under the protection
of Astarte, who suljsequently became
humanised lunler tlie name of Dido.
Temple of .SEsculapius. — The Temple
of i'Esculapius is situated under tlie
Chapel of St. Louis ; four or five small
apses are still visible witiiin the wall
enclosing the chapel. This building
was destroyed at the close of the third
Punic War, when the wife of Asdrubal
voluntarily perished in the flames with
lier whole family rather than submit to
the Kornans. (See p. 24.) it was sub-
se([uently restored by them. The build-
ing was entirely of white marble, the
columns being fluted. Three magnifi-
cent halls wei-e excavated by. M. Beule,
who estimated that each was at least
50 metres long and 10 high.
The Forum. — The forum was situated
between Byrsa and the sea, close to the
military harbour. Here public assem-
blies were held. Diodorus Siculus says
that it was rectangular in shape, and
on one side of it was the temyjle of
Apollo. It was from this direction that
the army of Scipio penetrated Carthage,
and there he established himself for the
siege of the Byrsa. Here il. de Ste.
Marie found upwards of 2000 Punic
inscriptions in 1875, which he de-
spatched to France in the "Magenta"
in September of that year. This vessel
was burnt in the harbour of Toulon,
but fortunately the antiquities ou board
were saved.
The Harbours. — The site of the
ancient ports of Carthage is well known
and easily recognisable. Ou leaving
the Goletta by the gate of Tunis the
traveller passes over a tongue of laud
called formerly Tcenia and Lirjula. On
following this he soon finds himself
between the lake of Tunis to the left
and the sea to the right. After a walk
of twenty minutes he arrives at the
house formerly owned by General Kheir-
ed-din, the late Prime Minister of the
Bey. On continuing his walk for about
twenty-five minutes more he arrives at
a summer palace of the Bey, uow con-
verted into a Lazzaretto. It is on the
shore near this that the ports are sitii-
ated.
Appian says that these two ports
communicated with each other and
with the sea, the latter entrance being
Sect. Ill
CARTHAGE
295
closed with iron cliains. The outer one
was the mercantile harbour. In the
middle of the inner one rose an island,
on which, and around the side of the
harbour, were immense quays in which
were creeks capal)le of holding 220
vess(ds, together with storehouses for
timberand tackle. Before each .separate
dock were two Ionic columns, so that
the islet and the port presented the
appearance of porticoes. Tlie former
was the palace of the admiral, who
could then see everything that went
on in the arsenal. Within this was
the military harbour.
From the chapel of St. Louis the
traveller can see two little lakes, e.xca-
vatcd a few years ago by a late Prime
Minister on the site of the ancient
])orts ; but it must not be supposed
that tlie latter were as limited in extent
as their modern imitation. They were,
however, artificial basins, and both
were named Oothon, a word used to ex-
press a harbour excavated by the hand
of man. Like many of the other prin-
cipal features of Carthage these ports
were destroyed by Scipio, restored by
the Romans, enlarged by the Byzan-
tines, and subseiiuently allowed to fall
into ruin and be filled up after the
Arab conquest.
Of the various other temples to
Apollo, Saturn, Astarte, Hercules, etc.,
few or no remains are visible, and the
traveller will look in vain even for
their foundations ; all that has Ijcen
written on the subject by Falbe, lieule,
Davis, etc., has not fixed their posi-
tions beyond doubt, and the subject
is not one likely to interest the ordi-
nary traveller.
Cisterns. — Punic Carthage was sup-
])lied with water entirely from cisterns
conslruclcil to catch and preserve rain-
water. The.se are found in every direc-
tion, but there were two great public
reservoirs, one near the sea and tlu^
other at Maalaka. Tiie first of these
is situated close to the fort called Bordj
El-Djedid. The tot:il length is 13it
metres, and the l)rcadtii 37 metres, they
are vaulted and divided into eighteen
compartments, two of which contained
tanks and circular ba.sins cither for
distribution or to catch any debris
brought down by the rain, and allow
only clear water to How into the reser-
%'oirs beyond. The cisterns at the
Maalaka^ were very much larger, but
are now in a ruinous condition, and
the Arabs of the village make u.se of
them as residences for tliemselves and
their flocks ; they had a length of ir>n
metres, and a breadth of 225.
It is difficult to say for certain
whether these are Punic or Roman ;
probably they, or others on the site of
them, were built by the Carthaginians,
and restored or rebuilt at a siili.sccjuent
period. The ground around them was
paved with marlile for the collection of
rain-water, and there is good reason to
suppose tiiat the streets of the city were
treated in the same manner, in order
that none of this precious fluid might
be lost.
When the aqueduct from Zaghouan
was subsequently constructed, these
reservoirs were used for the reception
and distribution of the water.
The Maalaka cisterns are hopelessly
ruined, l)ut the others have been re-
stored by the Zaghouan Water Com-
pany, and utilised for the supply of the
neighbourhood. The water is con-
ducted to them by pii)es from Zaghouan,
and branches lead thence to the CJoletta
and the Marsa. Great care has been
taken to jireserve their original form ;
this was the more ea.sy as all the i>or-
tions of them below the ground level,
and the vaults of six of the compart-
ments, were in a state of perfect pre-
servation. They are large enough to
contain 27,000 cubic metres of water.
Any one wishing to examine the in-
terior should ajqily pcrxtmuUii for a card
of admittance to .Mr. Perkins, tli--
director of the Waterworks' Conii>an\ ,
at their olliccs in 'i'unis.
Basilica. — Outsiili- the ramparts of
the amicnt city, where no doubt it was
placed before the edict of Coiistantitic,
and in a loeality called l)y the Arabs
IhniKius-cI-Kitrcl'i, a corruption iM)ssibly
of Doinu.i t'tiritalis, is the great Basilica.
It was a remarkable building, not .so
much on account of the richness of the
material with which it was constructed
1 The wiinl iiiuans in Arabic lutnying, or
conntctttl together.
'■2'.)C>
lOXClIRSTONS FROM TUMH
Tunis
as foi- its great size and tin; ]i(culiaiity
(if its coiistnictioii. Tlic main body (A'
llic l)uildinj^ was 05 ini-tres ion;^ l)y 14
nu'tics wide. It is divided into iiijie
naves, the central nave and transept
l)eing wider tlian tiie otliers and forming
a cross ; on eitlier side of tliis there
were four smaller ones formed by
columns of marble and granite, the
bases of which are still in situ. 'J'lie
four central pillars were the largest of
all, and were destined to support a
vault ricdily decorated with mosaics,
some of whicli may yet be seen in the
museum. Instead of tlie ordinary rect-
angular narthcx and atrium there is a
semicircular court which had an open
gallery round, and a fountain in the
centre. This terminated in a trifolium
or tricliorum, the walls of which were
covered with coloured marbles and the
dome with mosaics. This contained a
tomb, probably of a martyr. The east
end terminated in the usual apse. Be-
yond this was the baptistery, the font
being octagonal, within a square, with
ten nights of steps to descend into it.
All over the floor of the Basilica were
innumerable tombs, generally of squared
stones, in which were found skeletons
lying on lime. No objects of any kind
were found in them, excepting nails,
showing that the custom of burying in
coffins was connuon. Sarcophagi, in less
number, also existed ; they were so
placed that the tops were on a level with
the floor and served as slabs for the in-
scriptions. The whole of the pavement
was a mass of epita})hs ; no less than
12,000 or 13,000 fragments have been
found, of bishops, priests, deacons, sub-
deacons, and readers, Icdores, as well as
holy virgins and martyrs, the last gener-
ally recognised by the formula. Hie
sunt reliquiae.
A considerable number of bas-reliefs
have also been preserved of the Virgin
and Child, the Good Shepherd, Eve
after her Fall, the Miracle of the Loaves
and Fishes, etc. All these have been
transported to the museum.
This, like the Basilica of Salona in
Dalmatia, appears to have been built
on land presented to the Church by
a convert to Christianity ; traces of his
residence, and of the columbaria of his
family, have Ijeen found under tlie
f(jundations.
Amphitheatre. — 'i'lie Ampliitheatre
was entirely of Roman constiuction.
It is situated S. W. of the Maalaka, and
close to the Cartilage station of tiie rail-
way. All that remains, however, is an
elliptical excavation, about 12 metres
in depth. The stones have all disap-
peared. This building measured about
90 metres in length Ijy 30 in l)readth.
Tills was the scene of the martyrdom
of Saint Perpetua and her companions
on the 7th of March 203.
Circus. — The circus is situated to
the S.E. of the Arab village of Douar
ech-Chott, and about 3^ kil. from the
temple of iEsculapius. Its outline is
easily distinguished, and even some
vestiges of the Spina, but all the cut
stones have been removed. Its length
was -675 metres, and its breadth 90.
Theatre. — Apuleius describes the
theatre at considerable length, without
specifying its exact site, but El-Edrisi
says that it was W. of the sea-baths.
Standing at the great cisterns an<l
looking towards the Goletta, the ruins
of this building are seen on the left
hand near the sea-shore. It was an
edifice of great magnificence, but all its
beautiful columns of red and black
gi'anite have been dispersed in Europe,
and it has proved quite a mine of cut
stone for the construction of Tunis.
The history of Christian Carthage
is no less interesting than that of its
earlier days. Owing to its constant
intercourse with Eome the religion of
Christ was im]ilauted here at a very
early date. In the second century there
were a great many bishops in the pro-
consi;lar province, and Agrippinus, the
first bishop of Carthage, convoked them
in council.
The first recorded martyr at Car-
thage was St. Namphanion, who was
killed in 198 under Septimius Severus.
Jocundus and Saturninus followed
about the same time. St. Perpetua
and her companions were thrown to
wild beasts in the amj)hitlieatre in 203.
St. Cyju-ian was beheaded in 258 ; other
brilliant names adorn the African
Church ; Tertullian and Augustine,
the latter of whom, born at Tagaste,
Sect. Ill
BARDO
2U7
and partially educated at Medaura,cuiiie
to Carthage to conijdete liis studies.
In his time the see of Carthage num-
bered 160 churches in the I5yzaceiie,
and almost as many in Zeugitana. Tin-
names of only twenty-eight bisliops of
Cartilage are, however, recordetl, of
wh(jm the last, Cyriacus, lived in 1076.
To the E. of the chapel of St. Louis,
and distant about 3000 metres from
it, is the village of Sidi Bou-Saeed,
which is esteemed as holy by the Arabs,
on account of a tradition tliat St. Louis
became a convert to ICl- Islam, and was
interred there under the name of Sidi
l)OU-Saeed.
Douar ech-Chott. — To the S., little
beyond the foot of the mound on which
the chai>el is situated, is the little vil-
lage of Douar ech-Chott, consisting of
a few houses and a minaret, lietween
it and the Goletta are several summer
palaces of former dignitaries of Tunis.
The traveller should now continue
to the N., to the pleasant district of
Marsa, where the Bey has a palace,
and where several of the priiici|ial
people of tlie ])lace, and amongst otheis
the Resident-General and the British
Consul, have their summer residences,
surrounded by beautiful olive groves.
Cardinal Lavigerie has also built a
palace on the lower slope of Cape
Cartilage, the hill on which stands the
purely native village of Sidi Bou-Saeed.
Farther to the N. is Katnnrt, where
is a palace, now in a ruinous condition,
the property of Si llameida Ben Ayad,
and several modern Arab villas.
A drive may be taken i'rom Tunis to
the Ariana, about 10 kil. to the N.
of Tunis, where are numerous fine
villas belonging to Arab gentlemen
and to a few Europeans, most of them
situated in beautiful gardens.
E.xci'R.siON to the Gkkat Roman
Ai^UEDrcT and the RriNs of Oudkna.
This may be done by carriage in a day.
They are fully described at pp. 313-1.1.
EXCITUSION TO TIIK BaUDO AND TIIK.
Roman Aqukditct iikyond Manoi'iia.
The Bardo is distant about half an
hour's drive from the town. It is one
of the most characteristic and interest-
ing of all the palaces of Tunis, but is
in a condition of great dilapidation and
decay. E.xternally it lias the air of a
fortress, being surrounded by a wall
and ditches, and tiankeil with bastions
and towers. The entrance leads through
a street of small shops, few of whieli are
occupied, to a spacious court, where
carriages are left. Beyond, there is a
second court, in the middle of which is
a llightof steps guanled by marble lions ;
this gives access to the lidl el-Ii>lar,
or "Hall of Gla.ss," where the Hey
used to have audiences every Saturday,
and received foreign consuls. The Bey's
receptions here are now confined to the
two great JIussulman festivals, Aid el-
Kvbir and Aid t\s-Sf'jhir, the great
ami little festivals. The latter is that
which follows the fast of liamadan,
and the former occui-s three months
afterwards, and is better known as
Courban liairam, when multitudes of
sheep are sacrificed by pious Moham-
medans. On these two occasions his
Highness receives in state the princijial
functionaries of the Bcgeiicy and the
consular body. The Beit il-Ji>/<ir is very
handsomely decorated with arabe.-^jue
plaster work and marble, especially
the roof ; this is of an open interlaced
pattern over mirror, which jiroduces a
very bright and ]>leasing ell'ect. Gn
the .same Ihior there are two other hall.s,
which are not alwavs shown to visitors ;
the Jli'it il-I'iisha, or "Hall of tlio
I'asha," the finest part of the wliole,
and the only one where there is any
(piantity of ancient tiles ; then comes
the Miihkaiiui, or "Hall of Justice."
where his Higiincss in person jieriodi-
cally administers the patriarchal but
substantially eipiitable justice wliich
.seems far l)etter suited to .semi-civili.sed
jieopje than the more elaborate juris-
prudence of Kurope.
In the u|>per story is a stite saloon,
used on the occiusion of great f»-tc.s. It
is of immense size, but decorated in a
very tawdry manner, and hung with
pictures, of no artistic merit but inter-
esting from a historical point of view,
of European sovereigns, deceased Beys,
antl Tunisian magnates.
Such was the state of the I'.ardo, but
298
EXCURSIONS FROM TUNIS
Tunis
it fell into so luiiions a coiiditian
that the pi'incii)al rooms liad to Vje
pulled down and rebuilt. The inten-
tion was to reconstruct them exactly as
they existed I'oriiierly, Imt on the occa-
sion of the author's last visit (Dec.
1888) the work was only in progress.
Close to these public apartments is
the Old Hareem, which is now repaired
and utilised as a museum, under the
direction of M. de la Blanchere. It
was opened on the 17th May 1888
under the name of Mus6e Alaoui. The
halls are of great size, very handsomely
painted and gilt, and the walls covered
entirely with tiles of native manufacture
but of European design.
The Grande Salic is an immense rect-
angle, 19 metres by 16, surmounted by a
dome, gilt and painted in the best style
of Arab art. On the floor is the great
Mosaic from Susa, 160 metres square,
one of the finest which exists in any
country. It represents Neptune in his
chariot surrounded with 56 medallions
of gods and goddesses, each set in a
beautiful garland of foliage. On the
walls are other mosaics, most of them
being Christian tumulary inscriptions
and several fragments of sculpture.
The glass cases contain numerous ob-
jects collected throughout the countrj'.
Lamps, glass, terra-cotta work, bronzes
and pottery of every kind, from the
Punic times to those of the Byzantine.
On the staircase are arranged a num-
ber of votive stones, dedicated for the
most part to Saturn, brought from Ain-
Tounga, the ancient Thignica.
This leads into the Patio, decorated
in a very meretricious manner, in which
are a great number of inscribed stones,
in the Punic, Libyan, and Latin lan-
guages. Some are of great interest, such
as the inscription from the baths of
Carthage, others fixing the names of
ancient cities. There are also fragments
of sculpture and other antiquities. In
the Salic de Musiquc and the Chamhres
dcs Femmcs, as they are called, it is in-
tended to have a museum of Tunisian
art. These are in themselves gems of
art, being decorated in the most exquisite
manner with nuksh hadid, or arabesque
plaster work.
A catalogue of this interesting collec-
tion is being prepared and will be pub-
lished in 1890.
Excepting the Beylical apartments
before described and the museum the
whole of the Bardo will probably soon
bo pulled down.
The only inmates at present are the
family of the late Bey, Sidi Mohammed
es-Sadik.
Near the Bardo is the palace of the
late Bey, the Kasr es-Saeed, in which
the French treaty was signed, and
farther to the \V. the Manouba, where
is the palace once occupied by Kheir
ed-din Pacha, then first Minister at
Tunis, afterwards Grand Vizier at
Constantinoyde, who sold it, together
with his property at the Enfida, to the
Compagnie JIarseillaise.
Excursion to Hammam el-Enf.
This may be done by railway, several
trains running every day, and perform-
ing the journey in half an hour. The
line passes Rades, the ancient Maxula,
a small and unimportant village. Ham-
mam cl-Eiif, sometimes erroneously
cdW&A Hammam Lif, "The bath of the
nose," from a supposed resemblance
to that organ which the hill beyond
it bears, is a good deal frequented in
summer, but there is no proper estab-
lishment there at present. There are
several thermal springs, the principal
one rising in an old decaying palace
built by a former Bey.
The railway goes no farther than this
place, but it is intended hereafter to
extend it along the coast.
Best Route from Tunis to Algiers.
The most interesting route from
Tunis to Algiers is by Constantino,
Setif, and the Chabet el-Akhira. There
are many places well worth visiting on
the way, all of which are fully described
in the "body of the work.
First day, alternative routes —
a. Tunis to Hammavi Mcskoutine.
h. Tunis to Tehcssa.
c. Tunis to Constantine.
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 28. BOKE TO TUNIS
299
Second Day —
a. Hammam Meskoutine to Constan-
tine.
b. Tebessa to Constantine.
Third Day—
Constantine to Sdif.
Fuurth Day —
Setif to Bougie by the Chabet el-
Akhira.
Fifth day—
a. Bougie to Algiers by railwa}'.
b. Bougie to Algiers by steamer.
These are the mere days of travel,
without taking into consideration the
time necessarily spent at each place.
ROUTE 28.
Bone to Tunis by Railway.
a
■~ -
■" e!
iic5
1.2.2
Names of Stations.
5^
q''
BOME ....
355
55
Duvivier
300
65
Medjez-Sfa .
290
74
Am-Tahaiiiiiuimc
281
79
Ain-Arra
270
91
IjH Verdure .
264
97
Ain-Sennour .
258
107
SouK-AniiAs
248
110
Tarja (Halt) .
239
124
Sidi Bader .
231
140
Cued Miuij,Tas
215
156
Sidi el-Heiiitssi
199
165
Ghardimaou
190
170
Cued Meliz .
179
187
Sidi Meskine
168
191)
Souk el-.Arli.ia
156
210
Ben Bccliir .
145
222
Souk cl-Kliaiiii.s
133
235
Sidi Zeliili .
120
248
Bkja
107
269
Oucd /nrK'iia .
86
2S9
Medjp/. el-Bab
66
304
Bordj Touin .
51
321
Tebourl)a
34
330
njedeida
25
345
Maiiouba
10
355
Tunis .
From Bone to Duvivier, see Rte. 19.
55 kil. Duvivier. Junction for Con-
stjuitine and Algiers. After leaving
Duvivier the line takes a turn to the
westward and follows the right bank
of the Oued Melah, an aliluent of tho
Seybouse, till it reaches
65 kil. Akdjcz-Sfu, a small village at
the junction of the Oued Sfa and Oued
Melah. Here it crosses the old car-
riage road to Souk-Ahra.s, and winds,
now to the E. now to the W. of it, till
74 kil. Alii-Tahamimime. Thence it
continues following the general cour.se
of the road. The village of Oiud
Chuluim is seen to the W., above a
deep and densely-wooded glen, tlirougli
which passes a bright clear stream, one
of the most attractive s]tots on the old
carriage road. On a cloudless day even
Guelma may be seen in the far distance.
At the 76th kil. the line t;ikes a
sudden bend to the E., and runs nearly
at right angles to its old course for a
distance of 6 kil.
At the 8'2d kil, it enters the tunnel
oi Kef Kcrichefa, 700 metres in length,
and nearly circular in shape, and then
returns almost to the place where it
had diverged from its general southerly
direction. It is most pt-rple.ving-to
observe the features of the landscajw*,
which had been in front of us and on
our right hand when we entered the
tunnel, now behind us and on our left
on emerging from it. To the E. of this
bend on the line may be seen at some
distance the forest of Kef Djemel, the
property of Captain Hope. This is
almost the last remaining resort of the
red deer in Algeria.
91 kil. La Verdure. The village is
about a kilometre and a half to the W.
This is about the centre of the beautiful
forest of Fidj rl-Makia, which consists
principally of cork oak ; but there is a
sullicient diversity of other trees to give
variety to the tints ; while the numerous
streams descending from the mountains,
among a thick undershrub of heath,
bracken, broom and white thorn, delight
l)oth ear antl eye in a manner not often
enjoyed in Afriea.
97 kil. Ain-Siu)iour. Not far from
this place is an effervescing spring, the
water of which is an excellent substitute
for soila-water.
107 kil. Souk-Ahras. 2430 inhab.
2067 ft. above the sea. The modern
:u)0
HOUTIO 28. JioNK TO TUNIH
Tunis
town is ill a luospcroiis condition if we
may judj^c by the size and eli'gancc of
its municipal Ijuildinj^s. It lias a
considerable trade in wool and cattle,
and large ([uaiititios of alfa fibre are
brought ])}' the Tebessa railway. It
was ibrmerly the seat of government of
the great tribe of Hanencha, after whose
revolt in 1852 it was created a military
post, which became tlie nucleus of the
jiresent town. Its position, GO kil. from
ilie Tunisian frontier and at tlie junction
of the roads from Tunis to Constantine,
Tebessa and Bone, contributed greatly
to its prosperity.
It is surrounded by fine forests ; there
is abundant water power for mills, and
other similar industrial establishments;
the soil is good, and much of it is
capable of irrigation ; its climate is
temperate and salubrious, so tliat there
is every reason to suppose that it ma}-
one day become a place of considerable
importance.
In January 1871, after the mutiny
of the Spahis at Ain-Guettar, the Arabs
around rose in revolt, burnt the neigh-
bouring farms, assassinated defenceless
colonists, and invested the town. The
women, children, and sick, were put in-
to the bordj, the streets were barricaded,
and every possible precaution made for
defence. On the evening of the 26th
the insurgents attacked the town, but
were driven off after a combat of two
hours. The place was relieved on the
31st of January by a column from Bone,
under command of General Pouget.
Souk-Ahras was only identified as
the ancient Tagaste by an inscription
found on the spot, in 1844, when a
column under General Randon passed
through the district. It seems never
to have been of great importance,
though it is mentioned by Pliny as
one of the free cities. It ow'es its
renown entirely to having been the
birthplace of St. Augustine (13th Nov.
.•\.ii. 354), whose father Patricius was a
person of modest rank, a decurion of
the city, and struggled hard to give
his son the best education within his
means. He died when St. Augustine
was only seventeen years of age. He
was converted to Christianity by his
saintlj' wife, Monica.
Tiie first years of the Saint's life were
passeil at Tagaste, and at sixteen he
was .sent to Medaura (see p. 231), a city
which ollc'ied greater educational facili-
ties ; here he remained a short time, and
was then sent to continue his studies
at Carthage, in the school of rhetoric,
wliere he soon took the first place.
In 373 he returned to Tagaste, where
he taught grammar, and where for nine
years he lived in a manner to cause the
most profound affliction to his mother,
as he tells us in his "Confessions."
His old schoolfellow and life-long friend,
Alypius, subsefiuently became Bishop
of Tagaste.
There are some Roman ruins round
about, but nothing of exceptional in-
terest.
[An interesting excursion from Souk-
Ahras is to the ruined Roman city of
Khamisa, at the source of the Medjerda
(see p. 233).
This river is formed by two streams,
one of which flows from the W. and
the other from the S.AV. The first of
these rises at Khamisa, and the other,
called the Oued Melkcjuc, during the
greater part of its course, and the Oucd
Chabro near its source, descends from
the plateau of Tebessa.
The modern name is a corruption of
the Roman one Bagradn, and this
again is merely a form of the Punic
one Makarath or Bakarath.']
G kil. After passing Souk-Ahras,
the line strikes the Medjerda, which it
does not again quit until it approaches
Tunis. The river flows through a suc-
cession of ])icturesc]ue gorges, amongst
well wooded hills ; the line follows
generally its left bank, but it crosses
the river thirteen times between Souk-
Ahras and Ghardimaou.
116 kil. Tarja.
124 kil. Sidi Badcr.
140 kil. Oued Mougras.
156 kil. Sidi cl-Hcmess^i.
160 kil. The bridge which is here
crossed marks the boundary between
Algeria and Tunis.
165 kil. Ghardimaou, frontier of
Tunisia.
This must have been a place of some
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 28. CHEMTOU
301
importance in Roman times, as an in-
scription was found here rcffaiding a
" Saeerdos provinci.e Afiicx'," who be-
longed to the nuiglibourliood.
170 kil. OuED Mkliz (more correctly
Mchliz). At 3 kil. to the N. of the
line is Chemtou, where are fine quarries
of Numidian marble, second only in
importance to those of Arzeu (see
p. 273) and the extensive ruins of the
Roman Simittu, Simitthus, or Colonia
Simithensium.
Visitors will find a service of carriages
at the station, and rooms antl a restau-
rant at tlie (juarries under the super-
vision of the administration. Api)lica-
tion had, however, better be made
beforehand to the olfice in Tunis, Rue
Sadikia, Xo. 11.
This place is mentioned in the
Itineraries as one of the stations on the
road from Hippo Rcgia (Bone) to Car-
thage, but beyond this nothing is
known of its ancient history, and in
modern times, until the railway was
opened, tiiis part of the country was
difficult of access and remote from the
usual routes of travellers.
Close to a spot where one of the
numerous streams called Oucd d-Mclah,
or "Salt River," flows into the ileil-
jerda, is situated a line of small hills
covering an area of about 90 hectares,
tlie highest point of which is 260
metres altove the sea level. They are
composed almost entirely of marlile of
various kinds, but ]irincii)ally of Giallo
Antico, rose-coloured marble, and a
brownish breccia. There can be no
doubt that these ([uarries were exten-
sively worked by the Romans ; large
excavations made by them exist in
various ])laces, and numerous inscrip-
tions have been found on blocks wliicii
had been extracted but not earrieil
away. Tiie company lias here erected
extensive ])remises ; it has constructed
a branch railway, crossing the Medjcrda
by an iron bridge, and joining tlie main
line a little to the E. of the station of
Oucd Meliz.
The plain on both sides of the hills
is covered with extensive Roman re-
mains ; the city must have been a very
considerable one, owing its existence to
its marble (quarries. The name of the
place is found in several inscriptions, both
on tombstones and milliary columns,
some of which Iiavo been collected in
the garden of the director. One of
the latter is curious, as it gives the
name of a road which passed here : —
VIA
YSOTHA
III
Another is more interesting still, as
it indicates the construction by Had-
rian of a road destined no doubt for the
transport of the marble from Sindttu to
the sea at Tabarca, probably about
A.D. 129.1
The most prominent ruin in the land-
scape is that of a long aqtttdnct, which
commenced about 7 kil. distant among
the liills to the W., crossed the Oued
d-Achar by a bridge, still entire, and
entered a series of seven vaulted cis-
terns about 2i kil. from the marble
works. Thence it passed, partly under-
ground and partly on a long line of
arches, crossing the Oued Jlelah by a
bridge, now fallen, till it terminated at
the T/wnna; in the miildle of the city.
The masonry is not of a jtartifularly
line quality, the ])linths of the piers are
of large blocks of cut stone, but the
masonry above them is of a common
rubble, and the voussoirs of the arches
are of hammer -dressed stones. Here
and there a section of the aque<luct
may be seen entirely of cut stone ; these
mark a reconstruction at a period sub-
sequent to the original work. In one
pier may be seen as many as four tomb-
stones, some of them npsitle down ;
another j)ier has one sueh tombstone,
and jirobably many more were used,
the inscrii)tions of which are turned
inwards. The necrojiolis was in tJio
hills close by, and as there are very few
stones now existing there, it is jtrob-
able that the greater part of them were
used for jiublic works.
Close to the end of tlie aqueduct are
the remains of the Therma\ a large
building, but of j)oor coiistruetion ; the
mosaic floor, where visilile, is rude, the
' Tlioso inscrii)tionH Jinvo Itct-n )iiil>liHhc<| in
the " Ueviie ArclieoloKiqiic," by the lU'V. IVn-
Di-lnttrc, in April ami July 18iil, aiul in May
and October 1882.
302
UODTE 28. Boxr': to tunir
Tunis
tesserae being of brick, and neariy
5 cent, long by 1^ broad. Farther N.
is the Theatre ; the scena has entirely
disapjieared, but the cavea is nearly
coniiilete. The building is situated
close to the river, with a tine view in
every direction. There is also an
Aiivphitheatre at some distance to the
E., but it is in a very dilapidated con-
dition, and could never have been a
line building. There are many other
structures more or less ruined, one of
which appears to have been a Basilica.
But the great feature of the place is
undo\ibtedly the colossal Bridge over
the Medjerda ; it is a work of great
magnitude, the southern side is nearly
complete, but the rest lies in huge
masses, encumbering the bed of the
river, as if broken up and tossed about
by some great convulsion of nature, to
such an extent that it is almost im-
possible to make out its original plan.
It seems to have crossed the river at
an obtuse angle, and down stream on
the north side there are a number of
parallel sluices, with grooves for gates,
as if it had also served as a barrage for
the irrigation of the plain. The bed of
the river has been worn away far below
its original level, so that the founda-
tions of the piers are left in the air
and entirely exposed. The bridge
bears evident proofs of having been
rebuilt, like the aqueduct ; tombstones
having been freely used. The great
mass of the masonry is of rubble, al-
most entirely of waste marble from the
quarries, faced with immense blocks of
cut stone. Indeed, throughout the
whole city there is no appearance of the
marble, so near at hand, having been
used in blocks for any purpose ; prob-
ably it was too valuable, and was all
exported to Rome. The record of the
reconstruction of the bridge is contained
on another marble slab now lying in a
field on the right bank of the river ; an
attempt was made to carry it otl', but
owing to its great weight and size this
failed. It proves that the bridge was
reconstructed by Trajan from its foun-
dations after he had assumed the title
of Dacicus, but before the Arabian
and Parthian campaign, probably about
A.D. 105. It formed, most probably.
the point of departure of a road from
Simittu to Sicca Venerea.
187 kii. Sidi Meskine. The line now
enters a broader part of the valley, still
running along the southern side of the
river.
199 kil. Souk el - Arbaa. An en-
trenched camp lormed by the French
on the site of an Arab market held here
every Wednesday, lience its name, and
now fast rising into an imjjortant town.
This is a convenient starting-jioint
for various excursions, and there is
an auberge at the station, with limited
accommodation, where the traveller
may put up in comfort. He may
visit Chemtou, just described ; the
Kliomair country and Ain-Draham (see
p. 305); and El- Kef (p. 308). The
only attraction in the immediate neigh-
bourhood is the ruined city of Bulla
Regia, called Henchir Hammam Dar-
radji by the natives, situated about 7
kil. from the station, at the foot of
Djebel el-Arabia, one of the hills which
bound the north side of the valley of
the Medjerda. Its position was no
doubt determined by a copious spring
of sweet water, which, in this region of
brackish rivers, was a priceless treasure.
It was probably the residence of some
of the Numidian kings, and it subse-
quently became a libcrinii oppidum
under the Romans. It is mentioned
in the Itinerary of Antonine as a station
on the route from Hippo Regia to Car-
thage ; but beyond this little is known
of its history, and there are no inscrip-
tions existing on the spot as at Chem-
tou.
The extent of the ruins can best be
seen by ascending the hill for about
300 yards beyond the ruined amphi-
theatre ; they cover an area of manj'
acres, and consist of large buildings
and numbeiiess smaller vaulted edifices
now buried in the soil, generally above
the spring of the arches. In the centre,
to the north, is the spring which rose
in a large semicircular mjinphacum of
cut stone, from which leaden pipes
issued for the distribution of the water
in various directions. Immediately in
front of it was an archway built of large
blocks of very compact and finely cut
limestone. This was destroyed in the
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 28. BEJA
303
most reckless manner to supply build-
ing material for the railway. The
spring has been enclosed in a Chdteau
d'cdii, and part of its water is conveyed
in iron pipes to Souk el-Arb;ia, which
used to be supplied with water brought
from Tunis by rail. The surplus forms
a marsh farther down, full of eel and
l)arl)el, of great size. Only a small
spot on the edge of tlie reservoir has
l)een cleared to its original level ; here
a fine mosaic pavement has been dis-
covered, and, to judge by the remains
lying about, this must have been a
beautiful spot, decorated with temples
and colonnades, somewhat like the
widl-known exam])le at Zaghouau.
Lower down the valley, almost due
south of tlie spring, are the 'Thcniur.
Like all the other buildings here, this
has been destroyed by an earth(piakc ;
huge masses of masoniy lie around,
disjointed and overthrown, in a manner
that could not have been elfected by
any other agency. One high arch still
remains entire. As the rest of the
structure is buried in debris nearly to
tlie crown of the vaults, there is great
hope that valuable works of art may
one day be found liere ; in the mean-
time the earth and the ruins that en-
cumber it ensure its ]ireservation.
Between the spring and the baths,
l)Ut a little to the east, is the Theatre,
also much buried in earth. One can
descend in some jtlaces into the corridor
and form a good idea of the nature of
the building. The masonry is of the
linest cut stone. The Auditor I urn is
entirely lilled uj) ; and only one square
pier, showing the spring of an arch,
exists on the right side of the scout.
At a consideralile distance farther
E. is the uim/ihithratre, even more
destroyed, and apparently of an earlier
age. Tiie masonry is of less regular
rubble, with only cut stone angles.
Like all similar buildings, it com-
manded a splendid view of the country
round.
There are many other edifices, some
of great size. One has all its chambers
and vaulted roofs in perfect ])reserva-
tion, and was used as a I'esidence by
the workmen engaged in laying down
the water pipes. Here also is a scries
of eight contiguous cisterns, of great
size, too high to have been lilled by the
spring ; j)robabl}' tliey were intentled
for the collection of rain water, which
the Romans in North Africa were more
accustomed to use for drinking jmr-
j)Oses. After leaving Souk el-Arbaa
the line passes to tlie N. bank of tlie
Medjerda, near its junction with th'
Oi<rd MeUriiur, its principal aUiui-nt,
which also rises in Algeria, N. ol
Tebessa.
210 kil. Ben Bcchir, near the condu-
ence of the Outd Tcssiia.
222 kil. iiouk cl-KhamU.
235 kil. Sidi ZehiU. The upper
))lain of the Medjerda terminates liere,
and the river pursues a more tortuous
course through undulating and hilly
country.
248 kil. Beja (more correctly El-
Badja). The station is 12 kil. distant
from the town, but a branch line leads
to it. In the garden of the station
repose tlie victims of the massacre of
Oiled Zergiia ; a monument has been
erected by the railway employes to
their memory. Tlie road crosses an old
Roman bridge immediately after leav-
ing the station.
Beja is mentioned by Sallust under
the name of Yacca or Yaga ; the latter
was probaldy tiie authentic one, as it is
found on more than one inscription
still existing. During ancient and
media'val times it was renowned for its
richness and commerce. Sallust .says
that it was a regular resort of Italian
merchants, uhi ct incolcrc el mercari
consucverunt Ilalici generis viulti mor-
tal es.
It has ever been one of the most im-
portant corn markets in I/riha, by
which name the northern i>art of the
Regency has always been called since
it was the I'rovincia Africa of the
Romans.
El-Edrisi (a.d. nril).says: "It is a
beautiful city, built in a ]i])iiii extremely
fertile in corn and barley, so that tliere
is not in all the Mdijluch n city so im-
portant or more rich in cereals. '
El-Bekri calls it the granary of
Ifrikia, and says that its soil is so
fertile, its cereals so fine, and its liar-
vcsts so abundant, that evcrj'thing is
304
ROUTE 28. BONE TO TUNIS
Tunis
exceedingly cheap, and tliat, when there
is famine elsewhere, here tli(a'e is abund-
ance. l*jvery day, he says, 1000 camels
and other heasts of Ijurden carry away
corn, but that has no influence on the
price of food, so abundant is it.
It is situated on the slope of a hill,
with a commanding view of the plain
beyond. The selection of tlie site was,
no doubt, influenced by the existence
of a copious spring of fresh water, which
the Romans carefully led to a central
position and enclosed within a vaulted
chamber of their usual solid construc-
tion ; this exists uninjured to the
present day, but the drainage of the
town has been allowed to flow into it
and pollute its waters.
The ancient city was surrounded by
a wall, flanked by square towers, and
on the culminating point of the en-
closure was situated the citadel. No
doubt this was originally constructed
by the Byzantines ; the trace was
adopted by the Arabs ; but as the walls
were not continued as the town ex-
tended, the}' soon ceased to surround it,
and were allowed to fall into decay.
The old Byzantine citadel has been
almost entirely pulled down and re-
placed by comfortable, if uot pictur-
esque, French barracks. Only the
central keep remains, formerly the
prison, now a depot for military stores.
A curious discovery has been made
at the Bab es-Sotik or market gate,
wdiicli shows how much the level of
the town has been raised by the ruins
of successive ages. One-half of the old
Roman double gate has been disinterred
below the bottom of the present one,
which stands above the other half.
In the outer wall of the Djamaa el-
Kebir, or principal mosque, dedicated
to Sidna Aissa (our Lord Jesus), is a
remarkably interesting inscription,
which was first noticed by M. Cluerin,
proving that this had originally been
a Christian basilica, and that it had
been restored and embellished during
the reigns of the Emperors Valentini-
anus and Valens, a.d. 364 to 368.
Dyeing is carried on to some extent
at El-Badja, but the only distinctive
manufactures of the place are wooden
sandals used by the women, very taste-
fully carved out of liglit wood, generally
with an old razor.
In tlie viciiiity of the town is a ruined
jialace and neglected garden belonging
to the liey, which, like that at Tunis,
is called the Bardo. This existed as
far back as 1724, when Peysonnel
visited the place.
269 kil. OuEiJ Zergaa (Gray River).
Here took place, on the 30th September
1881, a massacre of railway workmen of
a very horrible character by the insur-
gent Arabs. Having torn up the line
on each side of the station, they at-
tacked and burnt the buildings ; M.
Raimbert, the stationmaster, was burnt
alive ; and ten other employes, princi-
pally Maltese and Italians, were mur-
dered.
Here commence a series of wild
gorges and picturesque ravines, through
which the Medjerda finds its way from
the narrow Beja valley into the broader
Tunis plain. It makes a deep curve to
the south towards Testour, and both
river and line approach each other
again at
289 kil. Medjez el-Bab (Medjez of
the Gate). This is a station on the
carriage road between Tunis and El-
Kef ; the town is aljout 3 kil. from the
station, to the S. of the Medjerda.
The river is here crossed by a Roman
bridge, beyond which is a triumphal
arch of the simplest construction,
whence the modern name " The Passage
of the Gate."
304 kil. Bordj Toum.
321 kil. Tebourba. Teburbo Minus
on the left bank of the river.
330 kil. Djcdcida.
345 kil. Manouba. Before reaching
this station the line passes through a
portion of the great aqueduct of Carth-
age (p. 313), of which two entire piers
and three arches have been wantonly
destroyed to enable the line to pass
through, whereas by making a very
short detour to the right or left this
might have been avoided.
This portion of the aqueduct is so
different from that met on the way to
Zaghouan as to merit a detailed descrip-
tion.
The piers, 4 •7.') metres apart, meas-
ure 4 '60 metres by 3 "68 metres, con-
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 29. COUNTRY OF THE KHOMAIR
305
sti'ucte(\ of pis6 or rammed earth, in
lilocks about 1 metre thick, and stand-
ing on a solid cut stone foundation of
varying depth, but faced with a broad
square plinth of pise. The voussoirs,
al)out 0*69 metre wide, as liigh as the
intrados of the arches, are of cut stone,
Init the masonry is irregular. The
sjiandrils and the walls of the duct,
which was vaulted and lined with
cement, are also of pise. The duct
is higli enough for a man to pa.ss.
There is a liand of cut stone at the
springing of tlic arches, but no indica-
tions of any mouldings. Tlie construc-
tion of the piers is peculiar. There
being no quarry sufhcicntly near for
the purpose, the Romans adapted the
materials ready to hand. They made
a good solid foundation for each pier,
and then built the superstructure with
carefully-rammed earth mi.Kcd with
lime in layers of 1'07 metre. On the
ujiper surface of each layer they formed
(while the material was still soft)
channels about 0'16 metre square,
laying within them strips of olive wood,
about O'lO metre wide and 0'03 metre
or more thick. Over these was spread
a layer of strong mortar, partly mixed
with wood ashes, and from 0"05 metre
tliick, wooden pegs O'lG metre long
being driven through the mortar and
laths into the pise. This kind of
fiamework was repeated to the summit
of the aqueduct. The laths and pegs
are still undisturbed, and the piers are
])erfectly true and some of them free
from fractures. The aqueduct in the
centre of the plain would vary from 21
to 24.3 nietres in height. The Arabs
have from time to time taken away
every bit of lath within reach, and cut
away the foundations for the sake of
the stones.
The palace of the Manouba was
formerly the country residence of Kheir
nl-din Paclia ; a cavalry station has
hicn built in the neighbourhood.
355 kil. Tunis ('/.r.)
ROUTE 29.
Excursion in the Country of the
Khomair.
The country of the Khomair (sing.
Khomiri, incorrectly written Kruumiii
is situated on the Tunisian side of th
boundary line between Algeria anu
Tunis. It has a breadth of sea coa.st of
about 25 kil., and a deiith, iu a
southerly direction, from Tabarca to
Fernana, of 51 kil. In all the maps of
Tunis before the French occupation
this country was simply a blank space,
and little or nothing was known of its
inhabitants. Their manners were re-
ported to be almost brutal ; and as
their territory was inaccessible to any
force that the Hey could send against
them, no one dared to approach their
mountains, or if an expedition did
enter, the soldiers were either inas-
.^acred, or the Khomair themselves dis-
persed into the interior, where jmi-suit
was imjiossibie ; their numbers were
rejjorted to be very great, but were
much exaggerated, and having but
little to lose, they preferred independ-
ence and poverty to a more quiet and
settled life under Turkish rule. When
they were too much pre.sse<l by want,
they liad only to replenish their re-
sources by incursions on eitlier side,
and they plundered indiscriminately
lioth the subjects of the I5ey and the
Arabs of Algeria. Thus, shut in be-
tween the two eountiies, they managed
to preserve their independence, a thorn,
no doubt, in the flesh of lioth, but one
which was willingly endured by the
Algerian authorities till the moment
should come when their depredations
would give the necessary excuse for the
invasion of the Tunisian territories.
How the "invention of the Kroumii-s"
a(;tually did lead to the French pro-
tectorate of Tuni.s, is matter of history.
The author, with one companion,
passed throngli this country in 187(5,
and he believes that no other Kuropean
traveller had ever previously been i)er-
niitted to do so.' lie again traversed
it in April 1884 by excellent road.s. N' '
1 Sco "Travels in the Footslej>s ..f Hruci-.
yAlgeriu.']
306
nOUTK 29. COUNTRY OF THi: KlfOMAIIl
Tunis
an armed Klioniiri was to 1)C seen. Tlio
men wen; all engaged in plougliirig the
land for next season's erojis, while the
women were clearing the weeds from
among the growing corn ; all seemed
to have a friendly word or sahitation
for him, and he saw none of the black
looks and scowls which he had noticed
on his former journey. The ajjpearanee
of the i)eople, however, was lean and
miserable ; they Avere covered with dis-
gusting rags, and their huts were of
the most s([ualid description, hardly
comparable to any save those in use
amongst a savage jieople like the
Andaman Islanders.
La Calle should be taken as the
starting-point for this expedition, and
the traveller may either go to Ain-
Draham by the direct carriage road, or
make a detour to Tabarca, and so to
Aiu-Draham. The latter cannot well
be done, save ou horseback, as the
carriage road which was commenced,
and indeed almost completed as far as
Tabarca, never was continued. The
latter is highly to be recommended, the
scenery is varied and beautiful ; but
accommodation at Tabarca cannot
always be depended on. We give this
route, but the traveller should incjuire
at La Calle if it be practicable.
After leaving La Calle the coast runs
E.N.E. through fine cork forests, and
then skirts the lake of Tonga or Guerrah
el Hoict (Lake of Fish). This is an
immense freshwater marsh in summer,
although a lake in winter ; it is most
pestilential, and its influence is felt as
far as La Calle.
7 kil. Oued Messida. This stream
is the communication from the lake
into the sea. It forms a small creek
much frefjuented by coral boats ; the
English steamers anchor otf it and take
in their cargo of ore, which is brought
down from the mines by a line of
railway. Beyond is a hill called Kef
Chetoh by the Arabs and Monte Rotondo
by the Europeans ; from its isolation
and conical form it is a very prominent
feature in the landscape.
13 kil. Kef om-ct-Tcboid. A little
village which has sprung up around
the mines of the same name. They
produce argentiferous and auriferous
lead and zinc ore, all of which is
.shipped to Swansea. During 188.3
twenty steam vessels took on board
upwards of 26,000 tons of ore.
Here the direct road to Ain-Draham
continues to the S.E. ; that to Tabarca
branches oil' to the K.E. through a
wild and mountainous country, inter-
sected by deep ravines, and covered
with dense brushwood, with here and
there patches of forest containing oak
of various species and maritime pine.
It crosses the frontier at some distance
from the sea, passing over the high
range of hills which terminates in
Cape Roux ; it then descends to the
coast, which is here beautifully in-
dented, with channing views of land
and water at every turn, till at last
the island of Tabarca and the Bordj
Djedid, high above the town, come in
view.
36 kil. Tabarca (see p. 130).
After leaving Tabarca the road as-
cends the broad valley of the Oued-el-
Kebir, nearly due south. The ground,
wdierever }iossible, is cultivated, and
will one day no doubt be opened out to
European colonisation. At present,
like all plains in North Africa when
undrained and only cultivated in the
rudimentary manner employed by the
Arabs, it is very unhealthy, but in due
time this will be remedied. Xo places
could have been worse or are now
better than many parts of the Metidja
near Algiers.
All over the countiy there are ruins
of Roman farms or fortified positions ;
for the most part they are merely heaps
of stone, though generally of large
blocks finel)' cut. One of these, 5
kil. from Tabarca, is of a more im-
portant character ; part of the walls
and one-arched gateway are still stand-
ing ; it is close to the river, and is
called Kasr Zeitoun, "Palace of the
Olive Tree," from a group of gigantic
olive trees which grow around it and
in its deserted chambers.
17 kil. from Tabarca is the Oued
Kcrvia, a beautiful clear stream, so
called from a large fig tree growing
near it. A road bifurcating to the
N. E. leads to the Camp de Genie. Be-
yond the scenery becomes wilder and
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 29. AiX-DRAHAM
307
more beautiful, consisting of great
stretches of oak forest intei-spersed
with glades of cleared aud cultivated
land.
26 kil. Col de Babouch. The junction
of this road with that leading up from
Kef om-et-Teboul, where is a Tunisian
custom-house. The road now passes
through a forest of the most splendid
oak trees, the branches of which are
covered witli moss and ferns. The
effect of the bright green ferns on the
silver gray boughs of these gigantic
trees is most striking ; indeed the
whole route forms a series of studies
for a landscape painter. At last Ain-
Draham comes suddenly in siglit,
perched high above, on a bleak hillside,
its regular houses and huts of wood
with red -tiled roofs forming by no
means a pleasing contrast to the beauty
of the lamlscape through which the
traveller has jia.ssetl.
31 kil. Ain-Draham. This post is
situated at 41 kil. from La Calle by the
high road jiassing Om-ct-Teboul, El-
AiouH, and the Col dc Bahouch ; it is
800 metres above the level of the seiv,
and is well supplied witli water from
the "Spring of iloncy," whence its
name, and otlier fountains. Before the
French expedition it was i)erfectly
uninhabited, but immediately after
that event it was occuiiied by a garrison
of 3000 men under a g«-neral of brigade,
now it has been reduced to a small de-
tachment, to the despair of the
numerous auberge and store keepers
who have settled here, and who can
have no possible occu[tation but that of
supplying the troops and feeding the
officers.
No attempt at defence has been made,
no redoubt, no retrenchment, or even
the simplest walled enclosure. The
barracks of the soldiers and the bouses
of the settlers cover a considerable
extent of ground, and although the
Khomair have been disarmed, no one
really su]iposes them to be ilestitute
of weajions. Insurrections have oc-
curred in Algeria under more unlikely
circumstances, and it is not imj)ossible
that some day a rising of this warlike
tribe may temporarily endanger French
supremacy. ■
It is inijiossible not to be struck by
the extraordinary results which have
followed the French Protectorate in
this once inaccessible region. Admir-
al)le roads have been made in all ilirec-
tions, and no serious fears need ever be
entertained for the permanent security
of the country.
The view from Ain-Draliam is n -
niarkably fine, especially towards tli«
sea ; one sees down the whole length
of the valley through which tlie road
]>asses, and the Galita islands, not
visible from Tabarca, appear as if the}
Were only a few miles distant.
An excellent road conducts to Souk
el-Arbiia ; but as carriages are rarely
procurable here, the traveller must
make his arrangements before leaving
La Calle. The lirst part of the road
lies through sidendid oak forests ; but
as it deseentls these gradually become
replaced by brushwood, and iinally by
open undulating ground more or less
cultivated.
5 kil. Fedj el-Mcridj. A small grassy
meadow nestled amongst woodeil hills.
This evidently was a Koman jnist, as
in the centre of it is a mound of stones ;
the best have been taken for the con-
struction of the road ; but a milliary
column has been spared and erected on
a plinth. It bears the names of Con-
stantine and Lieinius, thus lixing the
<late prior to the defeat of the latter
in A.I). 323. It also bears the number
xviii., probably millia passuum from
Bulla Kegia.
20 kil. Fcniana. This jdaoc derivo
its name from a gigantic cork oak, th'
only tree within several miles. It is
on the southern boundary of the Khom-
air country, and used to be the extreme
limit to which the Bey's camp was per-
mitted to come in its annual circuit
for the collection of taxes. Here tin
chiefs used to meet it and hand ovt i
sucli sums as they felt tlispo.sed to pay ;
if the Tunisian soldiery advanced a
step farther the taxes were liable to be
paid with jMiwder and lead.
After the occupation of Ain-Draham
a strong column encamped here for
many months, and it has left a me-
morial of its stay in a large and crowiKd
cemetery. There is an auberge or shanty
308
UOVVK 30. TUNIS TO EL-KKP
Tunis
hero, at which it is possible to breakfast
but not to s])end the niglit.
Close to Feniana, and again at the
dowar below mentioned, are found two
milliary columns of Trajan's road to
Tabarca. "Imp. Cccsar divi Tra-
jiDii Parthic. fil. divi Nervce nep. Tra-
janm Iladrianus aug. Pontif. max.
trib. potest xiii. Cos. iii. p. p. viam a
Simittu, usq. Thabracam fee."
35 kil. Dowar ef El-Hadj bel Kasscm
hen Zorari. Opposite this a cross
country path, but one quite practicable
for carriages, branches off to the cast,
and leads to the important Roman
ruins of Bulla Regia (see p. 302).
42 kil. Souk el-Arbaa (see p. 302).
ROUTE 30.
Tunis to El-Kef via Souk el-Arbaa.
This can be done in one day. Leave
Tunis by the early train at 5 a.m., ar-
rive at Souk el-Arbiia at 10. 49. Start
by diligence at 3 p.m., and arrive at El-
Kef about 8 P.M. The diligence has
six seats, and is not generally well
horsed. The traveller should not fail
to take provisions for the way.
The road from Souk el-Arbaa runs
directly south over the plains of the
Medjerda.
9 kil. It crosses the Oued Mcllegue,
an affluent of that river, at a place ford-
able in summer but in the winter
months a ferry boat has to be used.
Extensive remains of Roman farm-
houses are seen, but nothing of special
interest. The road gradually ascends
the mountains through a vast tract
of heathdand, partly cultivated, and
affording pasturage for numerous flecks
of sheep and goats. The view of the
plain round Bulla Regia and of the
Khouiair mountains is very extensive.
28 kil. Resting-place for horses in
connection with the diligence service.
About a mile to the west is the pictur-
esque Arab village of Nebeur, where
once stood a Roman Castelhun, depend-
ant on tlie colony of Sicca ; close by is
a magnificent olive grove, and the white
konbba of fiidA Bou Jubar. On the
hill behind the resting-place is the
ruined koubba of Hidi Mcrzoug, built
of pre-existing Roman work. Several
inscriptions have been found here,
amongst others one showing that justice
was administered here by one of the
supreme magistrates of Sicca. There
are also many fragments of cornices
belonging to the Ionic order, and
several moulded stones. From its com-
manding ])osition this was probably a
military post of some importance.
There are two roads from Nebeur to
El-Kef; one by the jtlains, 38 kil., of
easy ascent, but little used. The other
over the mountains, 18 kil., very bad
and steep ; in some parts scarcely pass-
able for carriages. A new road has
been conmienced at the Kef end, but it
has apparently been abandoned.
38 kil. Here the road, after a long
ascent, becomes more level ; scenery
wild and mountainous ; on the right
commences a long range of precipitous
limestone rock, rising in some parts
nearly 200 feet above the road. Here,
at its greatest altitude, the French have
established an optical telegraph station,
visible at El-Meridj and Aiu-Draham.
The panoramic view is most extensive ;
on the left one overlooks the field of
Zama, the exact position of which city
is still a mystery ; in front the e3'e
traces all the Tunisian frontier.
45 kil. Here the road, still follow-
ing the precipice on the right, takes
a sudden turn towards the west, and
the walls of El-Kef come in view, the
Kasha only being seen above them.
46 kil. After passing the Arab and
Jewish cemeteries, you enter either the
upper or lower eastern gate.
El-Kef. The ancient city of Sicca
Yenekia, or later Colonia Julia Ciria
Nova, of \vhi(di El-Kef occupies the site,
was much larger than the modern town ;
it was one of the most important places
in Punic territory long before the Roman
conquest of the country, and was prob-
ably founded by a colony of Phceni-
cians, who introduced into it the wor-
ship of the Asiatic Venus, which
subse([uently gave the place .so evil a
repute. As no traveller should visit the
Alhambra without studying Washing-
Sect. Ill
ROUTK 31. EXCURSION TO BIZERTA AND CTICA
309
ton living's tales, so the visitor to this
interesting spot will find a ]>icture of
uiiat were ]irobaLly tiie manners and
customs of the early Christians and tlieir
oppressors here, in the pages of Cardinal
Newman's beautiful tale, " Callista."
The city, as at present existing, is of
irregular shape, enclosed by loopholed
walls, and built on the steep slope of
a rock (whence its name) facing the
S.W., and iinniediately under the
jirecipitous crag above mentioned. It
is a veritable city in the air, a mere
excrescence on the rock. Itisessentially
Arab, the Euiopean ])0])ulati<tn numbrr-
ing under 100, mostly Maltese. The
entire population is estimated at 4000.
'J'he streets are dirty and ill-])aved, but
owing to its position, and being well
supplied with water, the town is easily
washed. The rich jiluins below have
contributed to the prosj)erity of tlie
iiihabitants, but at present many dwell-
ings are unoccujiied and in niin.s. The
town is luiilt entirely with the remains
of the lioman city, jiortions of which
still lie below the surface. There are
many Roman inscriptions built into
the walls of Arab houses, and therefore
difficult of access. The principal
remains consist of fragments of a
temple of large dimensions, but of
coarse ornamentation ; near it were
lately found the white marlde statues
of two eni]ierors and of an emjircss,
but without heads, and two without
arms. The 'Thcrimv cslw still be traced,
the masonry is of large blocks put to-
gether with very little mortar, the open-
ings in the walls being spanned with
lintels of great size, many of the stones
being more than 2h metres long. The
walls are fairly perfect up to the spring
of the vaulting, and the a])si(lal end of
a chamber, with its Hat rib vaulting, is
quite perfect, and is now the residence
of an Arab.
The Kasha, occu])ied liy the French,
and forming the jiinnacle of the city,
is of Roman construction. Tiie town
has six gates and six mo-squcs, but of
no ))reteiitions exteriorly.
Outside the walls are the old Roman
cisterns, they arc constructed on a plat-
form above the Kasl)a, and immeiliately
under tlie iirccipitous rock before men-
tioned. They consist of 13 vaulted
chambers side by side, 27 metres long,
nearly 7 metres wide, and 6-10 dee[>.
Except where the vaulting lia.s Ixen
Ijroken through they are fairly jierfect,
the cement lining being in many jiart.s
as sound as when it wa.s aj>jili< d. Some
of these chandlers are used by the
soldiers for gymnastic purposes, one
being styled "Salle de billard," and
another "Salle d'escrime." The.se
cisterns were supplied from a spiing in
the rock, and were connected witii tlie
fountain within the walls by a short
tunnel, which is still perfect, but closed
up. The city is now supjilied from the
same source, and a line of j)iiies com-
municate with the fountains. 'i'ln
su|iply is never ceasing, it conn -
splashing in at the rate of many
tliou.sand gallons a minute, ami tln-n-
is always a busy gathering of men and
women, horses and cattle, in the litth
sloping square in front of it.
Outside the E. gate are cancferics ;
the tombstones of the small Jewish
l)urial-ground are mostly Roman, sonu
with the Latin inscrijitions still hgiblc.
The Christian cemetery, close by, i.s
the site of an old Christian ba.'^ilica,
about 27 metres long and 15 wide.
The shafts divi<ling the nave and
aisles appear to have been of gray
marble, O'.'il metre in diameter. The
external walls were very thick, those
of the apse being 0';'>0 mitre ; all of
large blocks from the Roman town,
anil some of them inscribed.
The French Government has done
wisely iti erecting barracks for the
troops outside the Arab town, on the
highest ground, close to the Kasha,
and well sheltereil betwien the city
walls and the u]>per range of rocks,
forming a plateau at the top of the
mountain.
There is a carriage roail from El-Kef
to Souk-Ahras, and a lioise track to
El-Meridj.
ROUTE 31.
Ezcureion to Bizerta and Utica.
The road Icavis Tunis by the IJab el-
Khadera, passes under the Spanish
310
ROUTIO :M. excursion TO BIZERTA AND UTICA
Tunis
iii|iic(luL't lieliind the I5;inl(), tlie iUicioiit
I'alaue of the Beys, and tlie Kasr es-
Saeed, tlie late Bey's favourite resi-
dence, and soon enters a wood of ancient
and extremely ])icturesi|ne olive trees.
11 kil. A wayside fountain and Arah
coffee -shop called Es- Sahala, near a
palace built by the celebrated Saheb-
et-Tabiia, niider Haniouda Pacha.
Beyond this commences a long allu-
vial plain, which, broken np by s(!veral
low ranges of hills, extends to the very
gates of Bizerta ; it is of great fertility,
and tolerably well cultivated.
23 kil. El Fonduk. Here the Med-
jerda is crossed by a bridge which was
built about 1850 on the site of an old
Roman one. It is a solid structure of
seven arches, with a niche between
each pair, pierced so as to admit the
passage of water wdien the Hoods are
high. The original structure was
entire when Peysonnel visited it in
1724 ; it was a tolerably good one, he
says, but the arches were badly con-
structed. This river rises in the
beautiful valley of Khamisa, in Algeria,
amongst the ruins of Thubursicum
Numidarum (p. 233), and traverses some
of the richest parts of Tunis — districts
rendered celebrated by many of the
most stirring events in Roman history.
It is none other than the far-famed
Bagradas, on the banks of which took
place the combat between the army of
Attilius Regulus and the monstrons
serpent, 225 years before Christ.
Pliny repeats the fable as one well
known in his day. They besieged it,
says he, with ballista and implements
of war, as one would have done to a
city. It was 120 ft. long, and its skin
and jaws were preserved in a temple at
Rome until the Numautine war.
The Medjerda has greatly changed
its course within the limits of history :
indeed, it is constantly cutting through
the banks of alluvium, and depositing
the (Ubris elsewhere. In winter a
considerable body of water enters the
sea, but after continued rain it becomes
a raging torrent, and even a passing
shower will sometimes suffice to wash
away sheep and cattle, and even tra-
vellers.
The plain on the right bank of the
river at this place goes by the name of
Outa el-Kcbir, or the large jdain ;
that on the left i.s Outa es-Segheir, or
the smaller one, while the crossing
itself is called El-l''oiiduk, from an inn
on its bank, more dirtj' and repulsive
than such places generally are.
27 kil. A second ami smaller bridge
is passed, spanning a watercourse run-
ning along the southern base of Dj.Zana.
From this point the road to Bou-Chater,
the ancient Utica, branches off.
[The traveller will find it im])Ossible
to visit this place and continue his
route to Bizerta the same day ; he
must either make a separate excursion
here, or return from Bizerta by Porto
Farina and Utica. The former, called
by the Arabs Ghar-el-Melah, is situated
on the north shore of the Bahira, or
lake into which the Medjerda now
empties itself. This lake was at one
time the winter station of the Tunisian
Navy, but the alluvium brought down
by the river is rapidly filling it up,
and now it has been entirely abandoned
as a commercial or military port. The
Boghaz, or strait connecting it with
the sea, has become quite sanded up,
so that it is passable only for vessels of
the smallest size. These changes in
the physical condition of the delta of
the Medjerda have taken place within
a comparatively recent period. Porto
Farina continued to be a place of con-
siderable importance long after the
date of Blake's action, one of the most
brilliant victories in the history of the
British Navy (see p. 43).
The wretched little village of Bou-
Chatcr to the S.W. indicates the site
of the celebrated city of Utica, one of
the first founded in Africa ; the signi-
fication of the name is The Ancient.
When later Phoenician colonists founded
Carthage, Utica still maintained its
importance, though it was obliged to
submit to the supremacy of the younger
city. In B.C. 300 it fell into the power
of Agathocles, and it • subsequently
played an important part in all the
Punic "\Var.s, but it is especially famous
as being the scene of the unnecessary
self-sacrifice of Cato (see p. 25). It
continued to exist till the Moham-
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 31. niZERTA
31
niedaii invasion, when it lust not only
its being, but its name, and was there-
after known by tliat of I»ou-Chater.
The ruins still existinj^ of the ancient
city are not very extensive or interest-
ing. A deep exi'avation marks the
site of tlie amiihitheatre. Some frag-
ments of walls exist, the .sole remains
of the admiral's palace, built on an
island in the ancient jwrt, now filled
in by the Medjerda, and the whole
site is covered with fragments of
marble, bricks, and pottery. Some
very interesting inscriptions and anti-
quities were recently found here and
exhiljited in one of the rooms of the
Louvre.']
41 kil. Bir Attaka. Beyond Djebel
Zana is another wide plain, called
15ahir;Ui (lournata, in the middle ot
which is a well, a conveineiit halting-
place for lireakfast.
The hill which bounds the north
side of this jilaiii is Dji-bel Telia ; at
its foot is a small stream ; and Irom its
summit the tirst vimv is olitained of the
sea and the Lake of Hizerta, along the
eastern bank of which the road nov.- runs.
56 kil. Menzel Djemil, well named
the bcantifal rcsdng-plnce, despite the
tilth with which it is surrounded.
The narrow neck of laud wdiich here
Separates the lake from the sea is a
jierfectganlen, eoveieil with plantations
of fruit and olive trees and fields of corn.
G:') kil. Bizerta. Its name is a cor-
ruption of tile .Arali one Binze He, which
is as evidently derived from the ancient
one Hip}H> Zarylus or Dlarrlnjtus, so
named to distinguish it from its neigh-
bour, llipiii) Jv'jii/.t, the modern IJiMic.
It was an ancient Tyrian colony, and
was fortified ami ))rovided with a new
harbour by Agathocle.s, in the. 4tli
century n.c. It was subsequently
raised to the rank of a Roman Colony,
as is testified by an inscription built
into the wall of Lurdj Sidi Uou-IIadid,
containing the ancient name of the
jilace, — coi„ IVLIAK. iiii'p. diauu.
1 Consult Coiiito iVrieri.sson, Iteliilion d'unr
Mission Archrnliiiiiiiiii: eii Tnnixie. Pari.s, Itn,
18S1. Alsd, liriiienhes .*(/;■ I'origiur rt V c m iihuf ■
ment lies Emporia I'heiiiciens. I'lir. M, A.
Daux. Pari-s, 4to, 1808.
Kl-l»ekri mentions that this place
was conquered in A.ii. 41 (a. I). C61-2)
by Moaouia ibn el Hodaidj. Abd el
Jlelek ibn Merouan, who accompanitj
him in this ex|>eilition, liaving been
separated from the main bddy of the
army, obtained shelter in the house of
a native woman. When lie liecanie
Khalifa, he wrote to his lieutenant in
Ifrikia to take care of this woman and
all her family — an order which was of
course carried out.
Marmol says that althougli the city
contained only 4000 inhabitants they
fnM|uently revolteil against the kings
of Tunis ami the lords of I'onstantinc.
which was often the cause of their ruin.
When Kheir-ed-din took possession of
Tunis, they were the first to recognise
him, and when he was expelh-d they
killed the governor whom Mnlai lla.ssan
hail sent with a garrison, and re<'eived
a Turkish garrison into their fort.
Mulai Hassan attacketl the place by
laml, while Andrea Doria co-operated
with him by sea, and so the place was
taken by as.sault — " et le Roy chastia
rigoureusement les habitans (pii s'estoi-
ent revoltez trois fois et qui n'avoient
jamais ganle la foy ni par amour ni
par erainte. "
It can hardly be said that IJizerta is
in a very flourishing eomlition ; still,
the presence of 200 Europeans amongst
its ]io]iulatii>n of fjiioO souls gives a
certain amount of life and commercial
activity to it, which no purely Moham-
medan city appears to possess.
The situation of the town is extreniel\
pieturesipie, being built on each si^l'
of the canal which connects the lake
with the sea, and on an i^lantl in the
middle of it, j>rincipally o<cupie<I by
Kuropeans, and joined to the mainland
on either side by .subsUuitial bridges.
The town is entirely surrountled by
walls, the entrance to tlio canal Iteing
protected by what in former times
would have been consiib red formiilablo
defences. That on the west is the
Kasha or citadel ; tlmt on the iqqKisite
side is tin; fort of Sidi el-IJuuni, con-
taining the shrine of that lioly man.
Between these the canal is embanked.
The foundations arc, no doubt, ancient,
though the superstructure is modern
312
ROUTK 32. EXCURSION TO ZAOHOUAN AND OUDENA
Tunis
The west wall is jnodiiccd as a Ijrcak-
watt^r, but it is very ruinous, and lias
evidently ])rojectcd much farther into
the sea than it docs at pi'csent. Its
lenf^th is not sulhcient to prevent the
sand bcinf( drifted in by the north-west
winds, whereby the canal has been so
much filled up as to render it practi-
cable only for light fishing-boats. Near
the gate of the Kasba may be seen
the chain formerly used to ])rotect the
entrance. To the w'est of the town is
an isolated fort called Bordj Sidi Salim,
built on a rocky promontory jutting
out into the sea.
A few French troops are usually
stationed here, some in the old Arab
forts, and others in barracks built on
the high ground outside the city.
The important feature of Bizerta,
however, is its lake, now called Ma-
r.ouka by the Arabs, formerly Hippo-
nitus Pallus, which in the hands of
a European power might become one
of the finest harbours and one of the
most important strategical positions in
the Mediterranean. Its length from E.
to W. is about 13 kil. and its width 9,
Init the shallow portion which passes
through the town is less than a mile
in length, with a depth of from 2 to
10 ft. Beyond, it widens out, and
has a depth equal to that of the lake,
from 5 to 7 fathoms. A compara-
tively slight expenditure would be
required to convert this lake into a
perfectly landlocked harbour, contain-
ing 50 square miles of anchorage for
the largest vessels afloat. At present
the anchorage off the entrance is very
insecure ; vessels are compelled to re-
main in the open roadstead and at a
considerable distance from the town,
and there is no shelter from the pre-
vailing bad -winds. The lake teems
with excellent fish.
In 1888 the exclusive right of fishing
here, at Porto Farina, and the Goletta
(the last two places comparatively un-
important), was let by the Tunisian
Government for £6750 a year. During
two days that the writer remained there,
10,000 dorados, weighing about 10 tons,
ami worth £400 at Tunis, after deduct-
ing all expenses, were caught in the
lake ; and 5000 large mullets, of about
1^ lb. each, and worth £100, at the
canal of Tinja, Ijetw-een the two lakes.
To the S. W. of this lake is another
nearly as large, but with a depth of
from 2 to 8 ft. only. It is the ancient
Sisara, now called the Gliaraf Djebel
Ishkul, or lake of Mount Ishkul, a
remarkable hill of 1740 ft. high, situ-
ated at its southern extremity, the
Kirna Mons of Ptolemy. This, no
doubt, was originally an island, as it
is now only separated from the main-
land by a stretch of marshy ground.
'J'he -water is almost sweet in winter,
when a considerable body is poured
into it by the Oued Djoumin or river
of Mater, but in summer, when the
level sinks, the overflow from the salt
lake pours into it by the Oued Tinja,
a tortuous canal which connects the
two, and then its waters are not potable.
The water is generally very turbid,
owing to the washing of the clay banks
on its margin and the muddy streams
flowing in from the plains of Mater.
This lake also abounds in fish.
The Oued Tinja is navigable for
boats of not more than 2 ft. draught.
Its general depth is 6 ft., and its
breadth 25 yards, but at the entrance
to the lake of Djebel Ishkul there are
shallows with a very rapid current,
against which a boat has great difficulty
in contending. Above the shallows
there is a ferry, opposite the marabout
of Sidi El-Hasoun, Mhich is completely
enveloped by a small grove of trees.
This spot appears also to have been the
site of an ancient town, as there are
Roman remains on both sides of the
ferry.
The vicinity abounds in game, and
on Djebel Ishkul itself there are a
number of wild buflaloes, introduced
by a former Bey, which are ver}' strictly
preserved.
ROUTE 32.
Excursion to Zaghouan and Oudena.
This expedition can lie done in two
days, in a carriage and four, which
ought not to cost more than 50 f.
Sect, in
ROUTE 32. ZAGHOUAX
313
There is an inn, Ifdtel Boulanger, at
Zagliouan, where it is quite jjossible to
sleep ; it is in a fine old Arab house,
with some good tile and plaster work.
No provisions of an)' kind are obtain-
able on the road.
The traveller leaves Tunis by the
Bab Alleoua, by a road which has been
cut through an Arab cemetery sur-
rounding the shrine of Sidi Ali ben
Ahsan. The heights a])ove are crowned
by the picturesque forts, which are
prominent objects in the landscape
from every point of view round Tunis.
The ground being somewhat undulat-
ing tlie great salt mai-sh or lake, called
Sebkha es-Sedjouiiii, which extends to
8 kil. to the .south-west of the town,
is concealed from sight till its southern
extremity is approached. During the
winter months this contains a con-
.siderable body of water, but in summer
it becomes little more than a fetid
marsh, with a broad elUorescence of .salt
around its margin.
At 17 kil. from Tunis is the Moham-
niedia, an immense ruined palace, or
rather a mass of palaces, built Ity
Ahmed Bey, who dieil in 1855, at an
expense of many millions of piastres,
and decorated with great magnificence,
but which since his death has been
allowed to go to decay. It has served
as an inexhaustible mine for materials
with which to build and adorn other
palaces ; its marble columns have tlis-
appeared, its walls have been strijiped
of their covering of tiles, the roofs have
nearly all fallen in, and it is impossible
to imagine a more perfect picture of
desolation than is presented by this
modern ruin.
The ariucduct from Zaghouan ]iasses
through one of the courts of the palace,
but it is here low, and bj" no means a
striking object.
Beyond, at .short distances, may be
noticed what seems to be small koub-
has ; these are inspection chamliers, to
facilitate tlie rejiairs of the aiiui'duct.
Shortly after leaving the Mohamme-
dia the ruins of the ancient a(|ueduct
come in sight, and at a distance of
about 22 kil. from Tunis the roa<l
crosses the Oued Melian, the Catada of
I'tolemy. Here is seen, in all its sur-
passing beauty, one of the gieatest
works the Homans ever executed in
North Africa, the aqueduct conveying
the waters of Zaghouan and Djougar to
Carthage.
During all the time that Caithage
remained an independent State the in-
habitants seemed to have contenttd
themselves with rain water, cauglit
and stored in reservoirs, both from the
roofs of houses and from paved squares
and streets. Thirty years after the de-
struction of this city by Scipio it was
rebuilt bj- a colony under Cains (Irac-
chus ; but it was not till the reign of
the Emperor Hadrian (a.d. 117 to 138)
that the inhabitants, having recnvured
their ancient wealth, and. having suf-
fered from .several consecutive years of
drought, represented their miserable
condition tii the Kmperor. wIkj himself
visited the cit}', and rcsolveil to convey
to it the magnificent sjtrings of Zeugi-
tanus Mons, the modern Zaghouan.
This, however, was not sutlicient for
the supply of the city, and after the
ileath of Hadrian another fine spring at
Mons Zuccharus, the present Djebel
Djougar, was led into the original
aqueduct — probably in the reign of
Se))timius Sevcrus, as a medal was
found at Carthage with his figure on
the revei-se, and on the obverse Astarte
seated on a lion beside a spring issuing
from a rock.
It was certainly destroyed by Gilimer,
the last of the Vandal kings, when en-
deavouring to reconciuer Carthage, and
again restored by Belisarius, the lieu-
tenant of Justinian. On tlie expulsion
of the Byzantines it was once more cut
olf and restored by their Arab con-
(pierors, and finally destroyed by tlie
S|i.iiiiards during their siege of Tunis.
It was reserved for the late Bey, Mo-
hammed es-Sadik, once more to restore
this ancient work, and to bring tlie
pure and abundant sjirings whieli
formerly supjilii'd Carthage into tlie
modern city of Tunis.
M. Collin, a French engineer, jtlanned
and executed this work. Of course
the advanced state of hydraulic science
at the present day rendered it unneces-
sary to make use of tlie ancient arches.
The aqueduct originally ponsisted, for
:514
]lOUTK 32. KXCUIISION TO ZAGHOUAN AND OUDKNA
Tunis
a great part of its course, of a covered
iiia.soiiry cliaiincl, runniiif^ sometimes
(juite niidergrouiKi, sometimes on tiie
surface. Tliis was com]>aratively iiii-
iiijuiXMl by time, and s(,'rve(l, witli little
repair, for the modern \v(jrk. Wliere
the old aqueduct passed liigh over the
surface of the country iron pipes and
syphons have been substituted.
The contract price was 7,800,000 f.,
but the work cost the Bey nearly
13,000,000 f. ; and, nseful as it certainly
is, there is no doubt that it was
the commencement of his linancial
dilliculties.
The original aqueduct started from
two springs, those of Zaghonan and
Djougar ; and to witliin 26 kil. of the
present city of Tunis — namely, to the
south side of the plain of the Catada —
it simjdy followed the general slope of
the ground without being raised on
arches. From this point, right across
that plain — a distance of 3 Roman
miles, or 7 kil. — with slight inter-
missions, owing to the rise in the
ground, and so on to the terminal
reservoir at the modern village of
Maalika, it was carried over a superb
series of arches — sometimes, indeed,
over a double tier. The total length of
the aqueduct was 61 lioman m., includ-
ing the branch from Mons Zuccharus,
which measured 22 m. ; and it was
estimated to have conveyed 32,000,000
litres (upwards of 7,000,000 gallons)
of water a day, or 81 gallons per second,
for the supply of Carthage and the
intermediate country.
The greatest difference is perceptible
in the style of construction, owing to
the frequent restorations which have
taken place. The oldest and most
beautiful portions are of finely -cut
stone, each course having a height of
'50 metre ; the stones are bossed,
with a squared channel worked at the
joints, and the voussoirs are single
stones reaching quite to the bottom of
the specus, in which there exist, at
intervals all along its course, circuhir
manholes, both to admit air and to
permit the repair and cleansing of tlie
channel.
A great part of the aqueduct, how-
ever, is built in a far less solid manner
— of concrete blocks or rul^ble masonry.
In some places, at the angles, or where
danger tlireatened, rough and massive
counteiforts have Ijeen erected to
strengthen it. Along the plain of
the Oued Melian, in a length of
nearly 3 kil., the author counted 344
arches still entire. Since then a num-
ber have been destroyed to metal a
new military road which has never
been completed !
The aqueduct passed the river on a
double series of arches. These were
all destroyed in order to make use of
their foundations for the modern bridge
which now carries the water across, and
serves at the same time as a viaduct.
From this point to Carthage, along
the plains of the Mohammedia, tlie
Manouba, and Ariana, the ancient aque-
duct is nearly ruined, and its stones
have been used in the construction of
Tunis. (See also p. 304.)
Leaving the Oued Melian, the road
to Zaghonan follows the line of the
aqueduct ; but a detour to the east may
be made to visit the ruins of Oudena,
the ancient city of Uthina.
Between the aqueduct and Oudena
may be seen a long line of megalithic
monuments.
The traveller will be well rewarded
by a visit to Oudena. The view from
the site of the ancient Uthina com-
mands a vast extent of country. On
the N. is the bay of Tunis, tlie hill
of Carthage, and the slopes of Djebel
Ahmar ; on the S. the rugged Djebel
Ressas, constructed by a range of
lower hills with the towering Djebel
Zaghonan ; on ■ the "W. is the long
broken line of the great aqueduct, in
its stately march across the plain.
The present condition of the ruins
proves it to have been a place of very
considerable importance ; they cover an
area of several miles, and it must cer-
tainly have contained a very large
po]iulation.
Pelissier imagines this to have been
the Tricamaron where Belisarius over-
came Gilimer, and wdiere all the
hoarded treasure of the Vandals and
the piratical spoil of Genseric fell into
the hands of the Byzantines.
Sect. TIT
ROUTE 32. ODDENA
315
The central and liii^licst jioint in the
city was crowned by a Citadel covering;
an area of about 60 metres long and 30
wide. The entrance-gate was on the
N.W. front, facing the amphitheatre.
The walls were of great thickness and
constructed of large blocks of cut stone.
The upper terrace was surrounded by
a ])arapet ; below were several cliambers
with strong vaulted roofs, .still nearly
entire. Tiie largest of these measures
20 metres long by 10 wide. The
vaults are supported on scjuare piers,
with a vciy bolil and massive cornice,
each stone being 0'60 metre in breadtli,
0-76 in height, and 92 thick. On
the northeiii side is a large arcli 7
metres in diameter, loosely tilled uj)
with squared stones. From tlie centre
of tliis a passage about 0'92 metre
in width runs perpendicular to it, and
alter a distance of about 5 meties
the ]iassage bifurcates to the riglit and
left, and descends at an angle of 4'>'
till it reaches a vast subterranean apart-
ment, which encircles tlie whole build-
ing, and was no doubt intended to
serve as a reservoir. Tlie descent is
very difficult, owing to the accumula-
tion of debris ; but tlie chamber ap-
pears to have been about 4 to tJ metres
high, and nearly as much in width,
occupying three sides of a scjuare, of
whicii tiie passages before mentioned
formed the fourth side.
To the N.W. of tins building is a
very perfect Amphitheatre, with an
elliptical arena ; the major axis is about
70 metres in length, and the minor one
50. Four principal entrances led into
it, and these, together with many of
the upper arches, are still in a toler-
ably perfect condition. No doubt, in
the construction of this, advantage was
taken of a natui'al dei)rcssion on the
top of a mamelon in whicli it is sunk.
Behind this monument, towards the
N., may be seen a small Bridge of three
arches, spanning the bed of a water-
course.
To the S.W. of the citadel are the
remains of a Theatre, and to the S. F,.
of it two very magniiicent reservoirs,
the northern one intended to contain
rain-water, but that to the S. was
sup[)lied from a well at some little dis-
tance, between which and the reservoir
are tlie remains of a solidly-constructed
a([ueduct.
IVrhaps the most remarkable of the
ruins is one diu' K. of tin' rltadel ; it
must have bcun a building »{ immense
size, but it is impossible from its pre-
sent ap])earance to form any conjecture
as to its original destination. The
walls, which were built of rubble
masonry, of great thickness, have been
rent asunder into huge nia.sses, too
large to have lieen moved by any mere
mechanical power likely to have been
employed, and yet they lie scattered
aliout, without any apparent order, in
every direction.
Underneath these is a series of reser-
voirs of iminen.se heiglit and size,
separated bj' partitions, yet connected
together by arched passages ; access is
gained by a very narrow hole in the
side of one of them ; the masonry
througliout is (piite perfect ; not a trace
is visible of any great convulsion of
nature, wliich alone, one would tliink,
could have effected the ruin of the
superincundjent building.
Twenty minutes more takes the
traveller from Oudena to the southern
end of the plain sjjanned by the aipie-
duet, where is a domed building, from
wlii(di the syphon of the modern ai|ue-
duct starts ; this is 2t) kil. from Tunis,
and 33 from Zaghouan.
From this spot the road continues
through an undulating country over-
grown with brushwood. After a few
kil. the ruins of a Koman ]>ost are
jiassed, called by the Arabs T.ab Khaliil,
tlie ancient name of which is unknown.
At 17 kil. from Tunis is the sjiot called
Magaran, where the two .sources from
Zaghouan and Djoiigar unite, and arc
conveyed in a .single stream to Tunis,
as they formerly were to Carthage.
The former source will be described
hereafter; the latter, Ain Djougar, is
situated 37 kil. farther to the W.,
clo.se to the village of I'.ent Saiila,
which occupies the .site of the ancient
Zuechara Civitas. Like the otiier, this
one also issued from a monumental
fountain, now in n very bad state of
preservation, but when visited by
31fi
ROUTE 32. EXCDRSION TO ZAOHOUAN AND OUDENA
Tunis
Sliaw tlie frieze of the IniiMing .still
existed, and bore tiie following inscrip-
tion : —
RORISII TOTIVSQVE DIVINAE DOMVS
F.IVS CIVITAS ZVCCHARA FECIT ET DEDICAVIT.
At Magaran there is a very neat
house, surrounded by a garden, occupied
by the Frencli employe in charge of the
waterworks. About 6 kil. farther on,
and 53 from Tunis, is the village of
Zaghouan, the ancient Zeugis, which
gave its name to Zeugitana, or the pro-
vince of Africa proper. The modern
town occupies the same site as the
ancient one, the crest of a spur pro-
ceeding from the north-east side of
the Tuountain bearing the same name.
The only ruin of any importance is the
entrance-gate, called Bab el-Goos, wliich,
no doubt, served the same purpose to
the ancient city.
After the first destruction of Zaghouan
it M'as rebuilt by a colony of Anda-
lusian Moors from Spain ; but, not-
withstanding its exce])tionany favour-
able position and the abundance of its
water supply, it appears to be falling
into decay ; half the houses are ruined,
and there is no appearance of any
modern construction going on.
The principal industry of Zaghouan
for many generations has lieenthe dyeing
of the red caps worn in all Mohammedan
countries throughout the basin of the
Mediterranean, and here called chachias.
In Turkey such a cap is called fez,
and in Eg)-pt tarboosh. This is the
only place in the Regency where the
operation has ever been performed, and
the secret is carefully preserved, and
descends from father to son. A mili-
tary post is established here, which is
generally commanded by a captain.
The great interest of the place to the
traveller is its vicinity to the sjirings
from which the aqueduct is supplied ;
the distance is about 2^ kil., and
there are two ])aths, one of which
the traveller would do well to take in
going and the other in returning, or he
may go the whole way in a carriage.
The first passes to the S. of the de-
licious valley which runs east and west
behind the town, and close to the spring
Am Ayat, which is the cause of its
fertility ; tlie other follows its northern
border between it and the hill on wliich
the shrine of Sidi Hashlaf is built.
This valley is richly cultivated, and
produces great quantities of fruit trees ;
the waters of Ain Ayat are also used to
turn a few flour-mills.
The great source, however, which
flows into the aqueduct issues from a
spot a little farther on, where are
situated the remains of a charming
Roman temple, known to the natives
by the name of El-Kasba, or the
fortress.
The building is extremely elegant,
and in its original condition must have
been one of the most charming retreats
which it is possible to imagine. It is
situated at the gorge of a narrow and
precipitous ravine descending from
Djebel Zaghouan, but at a very con-
siderable elevation above the jilain at
its foot.
It consists of a paved area of a semi-
circular form, but with the two exterior
limbs produced in straight lines as tan-
gents. Round the perinieterwas a raised
colonnade, and at the end, in the middle
of the circular portion, was a rectangular
cella, which is still tolerably entire.
The walls of this latter building are of
rubble masonry, but at the extemiity
there is a niche lined with cut stone,
surmounting what may either have
been the base of a statue of an emperor
or an altar to a divinity. Probably
the former, as the mutilated trunk of
such a statue, in white marble, and of
colossal size, \Vas actually lying on the
ground outside at the time of the
writer's visit ; this has now disappeared.
Above the door are the remains of a
beautiful architrave, Avhich doubtless
was surmounted by a pediment. To
the right and left of this proceeded a
lateral galler}-, 4 metres broad. The
posterior wall was of finely-cut stone,
with thirteen square pilasters on each
side, between ever}' alternate ]iair of
which a round-headed niche for statu-
ary was sunk in the tlnckness of the
wall. Towards the interior a Corinthian
column corresponded to each of the
pilasters, but these have long since
been removed, and now decorate the
interior of the principal mosque of
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 33. VOYAGE ALONG THK COAST OF TUNIS
317
Zaghouau. Each end of this colonnade
was terminated with a handsome gate-
way ; and from the lower surface of the
area on either side a flight of fifteen
steps conducted to a basin or nyni-
plueuni, shaped like a double horse-
shoe ; in this the sj)ring rose, and was
conducted into the aqueduct. The
spring is no longer visible, being led
into the modern aqueduct before it
emerges fro7n the ground.
The colonnade was roofed by one
general half-cylindrical vault in the
direction of the length of the building,
intersected by twelve other transversely
directed cylindrical vaults rising from
the pilasters in the walls and the
columns in front. A cornice of a bold
outline ran all round, serving as impost
to the vaults and ornamental doorways,
and as capitals to the pilasters. A
great portion of the vaults supported
by the walls still remain, to show the
nature of the construction.
The rear of the wall was strengthened
exteriorly by a coating of immense
blocks of cut stone, to protect it from
any rush of water which might flow
from the ravine above, after heavy rain.
There is also a communication from the
colonnade to the exterior by means of
a small square-headed door in the pos-
terior wall.-
The whole of this monument has now
been enclosed within a wall to ensure
its preservation, so that the traveller
who may wish to visit it must apjdy
to the oitice of the Company in Tunis
for an order to enter ; this sliould
be delivered to the employe above-
mentioned at Magaran.
A magnilicent view is obtained by
mounting the hill immediately south
of the town, crossing the valley watered
by the Ain Ayat ; and a still liner
oiie by climbing to the top of Djebel
Zaghouau, whicli may easily be done
by s|)ending an extra <lay at this j)lacc.
A heliiigraphic station has been
established on the summit of Djebel
Zaghouau, which commands an unin-
terrupteil view of the country round
in every direction as far a-s Susa,
Kerouan, etc.
ROUTE 33.
Voyage along the Coast of Tunis
from the Goletta to the Island of
Djerba.
Excellent steamers of the Compagnie
Traiisatlanlique and of the Compagnie
Generalc Italiennc run from the tJoletta
every week, visiting the principal jiort.s
on the coast as far as Tripoli, and
thence crossing to ilalta. Tlie days
and hours of sailing should be ascer-
tained at Tunis.
Vessels pass between the Island of
Zembra and Cape Hon, or Ras Adar,
the Ilermean promontory, beyond
which the Carthageiiians so often
stipulated that no Roman ships should
pass. This is the extreme eastern
point of the Dakhul, or large tongue
of land which extends in a N.E.
direction between the Gulfs of Tunis
and Hammamet. On this cajie is a
remarkably fine red intermittent light,
which can be seen for a distance of
25 m.
At a distance of 58 m. from the
Goh-tta, following the vessel's tmck,
is Eelebia, a small ami clean town,
situated about a mile from the sea.
To the N. of the landing-j'lace may
still be traced the ruins of the ancient
Clypca, founded by Agathocles in B.C.
310 ; the first position occupied by
Regulus on his arrival in Africa n.c.
•I'tii, and, according to Kl-l'.ekri, the
last city whicli remained in the jios.ses-
sion of the Christians after the Moham-
medan invasion.
This is dominated by a hill 270 ft.
high, called Aapis by Strabo, on ac-
count of its resemblance to a shield.
The summit is crowned by the Kasr
K>ld)i(i, a line Spanish fortres.s, the
exterior walls of which are in good con-
dition, though the interior is ruinous.
In the centre may still bo seen part of
the Roman Acropolis, a keep of finely
cut masonry surrounding a magnificent
reservoir, the terraced roof of which is
supi)orted l)y nearly 100 monolithic
pillars ; its depth is about f< metres,
and when tiie writer visited it at the
enil of the hot .season it contained 24
metres of water.
;ii8
IIOUTK 33. VOYAGK ALONG THI'J COAST OF TUNIS
Tunis
On llir liill itscir an: two maraliouts,
tliosc of .Sidi Ali Makadain and Sidi
Ivlmrfa.sli, and on the ])oint bcdow,
near tlio rnins of a battni'y, is a third,
dcilicated to Sidi Mustafa, wliicli has
given its name to the small hay, oni-c
a Roman harliour.
Farther along the coast is the village
of Menzel Temim, to the N. of which
is the Oi(ri/ T(fkhasid, the river where
Masinissa was defeated by 15occhar,
about IS. ('. 204, and his escort cut to
pieces.
At 30 m. from Kelebia is the town
of Nebeul, also about a mile from the
beach, close to the now unimportant
ruins of Neapolis, of which the modern
name is simply an Arab corruption.
The land around is very rich, and |iro-
duces immense quantities of fruit and
vegetables. The staple manufactures
of the place are pottery and mats. The
former is much sought after, and is
really curious, owing to the quaint
forms employed and the bright yellow
and green colours of the glaze.
8 m. farther on is Hammamet, a
small town of 3700 inhabitants, sur-
rounded by a dilapidated Avail and pro-
tected by a citadel, clearly of Arab
construction. The land in the neigh-
bourhood is well watered, though
sandy, and the place once did a con-
siderable trade in lemons, which were
sent to Palermo for exportation to
America. The modern town is not
built on the site of any ancient city.
[Should the traveller decide on mak-
ing the journey from Tunis to Susa by-
land, he can do so by carriage in two
days ; but he should not do so for
pleasure, as the road is very bad in
many parts, and there are not sufficient
objects of interest.
The road is good as far as Hammam
el-Enf, but for many miles beyond the
track is uncertain and marshy. He
can sleep at Bir cl-BouUa, nine hours
from Tunis, where there is a large fon-
douk provided with bed settles, but no
bedding or provisions. 5 kil. farther
on the road passes by a circular Roman
edifice, called Kasr-cl-Menara, 0, built
of line blocks of cut stone ; it is about
14 metres in diameter, and. 10^ high,
))robably the tomb of some distin-
guished family. The cornice and altars
upon it, described Ijy Shaw, have dis-
ai)j)eared. Tliey are said by him to
have borne tlie inscriptions : —
L. AK.MILIO
AFRICANO
AVVNCVLO
C. SVELLIO
PONTIANO
PATRVELI
VITTELIO
(2VART(J
PATR.
There are numerous vestiges of
Roman houses near this monument.
8 kil. farther there is a branch back to
the right, w'hich the traveller is recom-
mended to take in preference to the
direct road, which passes through an
immense salt marsh, often impracti-
cable.
The second day's journey lies through
the famous property of the Enfida,
which forms an immense rectangle
contained betw'een the towns of Ham-
mamet, Susa, Kerouan, and Zaghouan.
Its entire sujierficies may be esti-
mated at about 120,000 hectares, and
it contains a population of nearly 7000
inhabitants.
This property had been granted by
the Bey to Kheir-ed-din Pacha, then
Prime jMinister of Tunis, in considera-
tion of his having obtained from the
Sultan the confirmation of the right of
succession to the Beylick by members
of Sidi Es-Sadik's familj'.
In 1879, when Kheir-ed-din quitted
Tunis for Constantinople he deter-
mined to sell all his property in the
former country. Having tried in vain
to induce his countrymen to become
the purchasers he disposed of it to the
Societe Franco-Africaine.
This was not pleasing to the entourage
of the Bey, and an endeavour was
made to invalidate the sale by the
exercise of the Arab custom of Chffda,
or right of pre-emption. Several
British subjects were concerned in
this ; but after mucli litigation and
Sect. Ill
UODTK 33. KL'SA
319
diplomatic action the domain remained
in the hands of tlie original ijnrchasers.
Indeed, it may be said that this dis-
pute was one of the princii)al causes
wliich brouglit about the French pro-
tectorate.]
The vessel now takes a soutliern
course, and after crossing the Gulf of
Hammamet, a distance of 33 m., reaches
Susa, or, according to the modern
Flench orthography, f^un.ssc. I'oi).
ir),()00, of whom .^)000 are Europeans,
including lOoO Maltese.
Tliis is now an important French
military station, the camj) being located
outside the town, west of the citadel.
It is admirably constructed and well
planted witli trees.
It is the ancient Hadrunietum,
capital of the })rovince of Byzacium,
meiitioneil by Sallust as having been
a Phrenician colony more ancient than
Carthage. Trajan made it a Roman
colony. It is often mentioned in the
Punic and civil wars, and, like many
other cities, it was destroyed liy tiie
Vandals ami restored by Justinian.
After Okba had built the city of
Iverouan he remained at Susa during
a considerable period. Subse<iuently,
when the Turks took ufi the profitable
trade of piracy, this became one of their
favourite haunts, whence they made pre-
datory excursions to the coasts of Italy.
In 1537 Charles V. sent a naval
expedition from Sicily against the
place, which refused to submit to his
jwoUgi Mulai Hassan. The command
was given to the Manjuis of Terra
Nova, but after a vigorous assault he
was obliged to retire and leave victory
in the. hands of his enemies. In 1531)
another expeililion was sent, com-
manded by Andrea Doria, with better
success ; but no sooner had he left than
it revolted again, and welcomed the
celebrated pirate Dragut within its
walls.
In all the fre(juent dissensions be-
tween the Arabs and Turks the im-
portance of Susa as a strategic post was
so great that its possession was generally
the key to supremo power. The town
is situated on a gentle slope rising from
the sea, and presents a most picturesi[ue
appearance from a vessel in tlie harbour.
It is surrounded by a crenellated wall.
strengthened at intervals by s<(uai'
towers and bastions. In the interior
tliese walls have arched recesses, which
serve as shops and storehouses. At
the summit is the Ka.sba, wiiicii has
been thoroughly restored by the French,
and now contains the residence of the
general commanding. The view from
the terrace is very tine, and tlie gates,
especially that of the Kasba.areiiuainlly
decorated in distemper. Fnur gates give
entrance to the town, the lialj el-liahr
or Sea Gate, Bab el-Gharbi or Western
Gate, and Bab el-Djidid or New Gate,
constructed about twenty - five years
ago, and a still newer quo oiKjniug on
the <iuay.
The modern port is sinijdy an ojieii
roadstead, very .slightly protected by
a curve in the coast towards tlie N.,
where was the ancient harbour, between
the Quarantine Fort and Has El-Bordj.
The remains of the Koman breakwater
may still be seen. Jiut the accumulation
of sand has rendered tiie water too
shallow to jiermit vessels to make use
of it. A great part of tiie ancient har-
bour is, in fact, now dry land. Some
land has recently been recovered from
the sea ; on the S. side the battery
has been transformed into a " Cercle
militaire."
The principal objects of interest in
the town are : —
The Kaar cr-RUxit, a square building
Hanked by 7 round bastions, with a
high tower built on a square base. It
was erected by the third jirinee of tlie
Aghlaliite dynasty, Ziadet Ullali, in A.i>.
827, as a convent for Miralntin or
devotees. El-Bekri mentions it under
the name of Alahres er-Kiliat.
There is also a curious eollVe-shoj),
called by the Arabs Kahtrat il-h'i>uhha,
orCafeof the Dome. It is a small buihl-
ing, siiuaie in plan up to about S ft. from
the ground, thence rising cyliiidrically
for about the same ilislance, the whole
surmounted by a curious (luted dome.
The cylindrical portion has four largo
and four smaller arched niches, with
very bold cornices, springing from semi-
circular j)ilasters between them. The
walls are, however, so thickly encrusted
;}20
llOUTM 33. VOYAGE ALONQ THK COAST OF TUNIS
Tunis
witli whiUiwasli, that the architectural
details are considerably obscured. A
f;ood view of the exterior of the build-
ing is obtained by mounting to the top
of the Morrsliin., or jiuljlic h()S])ital, just
opposite : the dome is decorated exteri-
orly by a ridge and furrow fluting, con-
verging at the apex.
There is also a curious old building,
either of Roman or Byzantine con-
struction, now used as an oil mill. It
consists of a central dome, supported
on four arches, three of which give
access to narrow chambers, the entrance
being in the fourth ; beyond the left-
hand chamber, on entering, are two
])arallel vaulted apartments, extending
the whole length of the building. The
piers of the arches have originally been
ornamented with columns, and the ceil-
ing appears to have been decorated with
tiles or mosaics.
In the Babcl-Gharhi, or Western Gate,
a marble sarcophagus has been built into
the wall, and now serves as a drinking
fountain. The inscription is given by
Guerin, but at the present day it is
quite illegible.
About half a mile outside the gate is
the ancient Roman Necropolis.
A very considerable part of the trade
is in the hands of Maltese, who are here,
as everywhere else in North Africa, the
most industrious and frugal, and about
the best-behaved class of the population.
They almost monopolise the carrying
trade, with their karatonis, or light
carts on two wheels, to which one good
serviceable horse or mule is usually
harnessed. They also keep horses and
carriages for hire at all the principal
towns, which are unusually well sup-
plied in this respect. The march of
events has forced the Tunisians to abate
their intolerance, but people are still
alive who remember the time when
driving in a carriage with four wheels
was the exclusive privilege of the Bey,
all others, consuls included, being
forced to content themselves with two-
wheeled vehicles.
[ExcuRSiox TO El-Djem. This can
be done in two days ; the writer paid
90 piastres (£2 :5s.) for the hire of a
carriage. There is a fondouk near the
amphitheatre, but it is dirty and full
of Heas, and nothing short of the niag-
nihcenee of the view can compensate
for a night spent in it. The traveller
must take everything he refjuires with
him, including water for drinking pur-
poses.
The road passes for many miles
through olive groves of great extent.
S. of the village of Zaouiet-Susa are
the ruins of a Roman fort,0, and beyond,
the remains of several cisterns. The
views are tine.
The wayside fountain at Menzel is
the only water on the road. Beyond
this the olive trees cease, and the tra-
veller enters a wide and treeless plain,
part of the district called Es-Sahel, or
coast region — extremely fertile when an
unusual quantity of rain has fallen, but
at other times almost uncultivated, and
apparently hardly susceptible of culti-
vation.
There is nothing of interest at El-
Djem, save its am|>hitheatre, which
may be said to be all that remains to
mark the site of the ancient city of
Thysdrus, or Thysdritana Colonia.
The modern village is built entirely
from its ruins, and all that is visible
of the city itself are a few foundations
and tombs towards the N.W.
It is first mentioned in history by
Hirtius. After the defeat of Scipio at
Thapsus it submitted to Ciesar, who
condemned it to a fine of corn, propor-
tionate to its small importance. It is
also mentioned by Pliny, by Ptolemy,
and in the tables of Peutinger. It was
here that the proconsul Gordiau first
set up the standard of rebellion against
Maximin, and was proclaimed Emperor
in A.D. 238, in his eightieth year. He
did not long live to enjoy his exalted
dignity ; he was defeated in battle by
Capellianus, procurator of Numidia ;
his son was slain, and he perished by
his own hands after having worn the
purple for less than two months.
The solidity of the masonry and the
vast size of this building have induced
the Arabs at various periods of their
history to convert it into a fortress ;
it has freijuently been besieged, and on
each occasion, no doubt, to the great
destruction of the fabric. The first
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 33. Kr,-D.IEM
321
instance on record is thirin<; the wars
of tlic early Arab conquerors. After
El-Kaliina had defeated Hassan ibn
Naiinian, and driven liini as far as
Tripoli, the latter received considerable
reinforcement from Egypt, and again
set out for the conquest of Ifrikia,
about 693. El-Kahina entrenclied lier-
self in the anii)hitheatre, where she
sustained a long siege before being
compelled to evacuate it. The name
of Kasr cl-Kahina — the palace, or for-
tress, of the sorceress — attached itself
to the building for many ages after this
event.
This edifice offers the same exterior
divisions as the ]>rincipal monuments
of a similar kind built elsewhere by
the Romans, three outside open gal-
leries, or arcades, rising one above
another, crowned by a fourth story
with windows. But at El-Djem the
architect seems to have tried to surpass,
in some respects, the magnificence of
existing structures. In the Coliseum
at Rome the lower story is decorated
TOth a Doric half- engaged order, the
second with an Ionic, and the third
with a Corinthian. The fourth story
was pierced by windows like this one,
but i)ilasters alone are employed, so
that the general aspect is that of three
stories, gradually increasing in magnifi-
cence as they rise, crowned by a liigh
attic, which sujuiortcd the masts des-
tined to receive the roi)es of the velum.
In many other amphitheatres the Doric
order is alone employed. But here, at
El-Djem, the orilers of the first and
third galleries are Corinthian ; the
middle one is composite ; the fourth
was ])robalily Corinthian also, if it
ever was completed.
The windows of the fourth story of
the Coliseum are square-headed, as was
generally the case in monuments of
this kind ; but at El-Djem the heads
of the windows arc neither straight
nor semicircular, but segmental, and
they are built as true arches, with
voussoirs. They are placed at every
third interpilaster.
Each of the three lower stories pos-
sessed sixty-four columns and arclies,
and at each extremity was a grand
entrance, but the west one is included
[Ahjcria.^
in the breach made by Mohammed Bey
in lfJ97, to prevent the buihliiig being
again used a.s a fortress. Since then
the work of destruction lias gone on
ra[)idly, and now fully onc-tliird of the
whole jierimeter is destroyed.
The interior of the amphitheatre has
suffered much more than the exterior,
doubtless from the fact that it has so
often served as a fortress, and jtartly
from the material having been taken
to l)lock up tiie lower galleries and to
build the modern village.
There are many indications of tins
great monument never having been
completed. The attic story, which
was necessary to support the velum,
was commenced on the inner wall of
the external gallery, but not ap|>arently
on the outer wall. Some of the orna-
mental details also are in an unfinished
condition. The keystones of the arches
of the lowest order were probably all
intended to be sculptured, but they
are still in their original rongli con-
dition, with the excej>tion of two, one
of which bears the head of a human
being, and the other that of a lion.
The outsiile gallery on the ground
floor, where most perfect, has been
utilised by the Arabs as store rooms
for their corn and forage ; some of the
arches are converted into slnqis, and
there is evidence that the upper gal-
leries also have at some time or other
been converted into dwellings, holes in
the masonry for the reception of joists
being visible in every direction.
Several inscriptions have been found
here ; the most important has been
preserved in the enclosure of the Chaiicl
of St. Louis at Carthage, and has been
often ([uoted : the name of the town
is twice mentioned in it — oneo as
Thysdrus, and again as Thysdritana
Colon ia.
A number of rudo Arabic or Cufic
inscription.s, accompanied by represen-
tations of swonis and dagger.s, have
been scratched on the exterior wall
above the princij)al entranco, and one,
which is certainly of licrber origin,
may date from the era of Kl-Kahinu.
The stone of which tlie amphitheatre
is built was obtained from Sallecta on
the sea coast : the Sallecti of the tables
Y
322
llOUTK 33. VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF TUNI8
Tunis
of reutingcr, and the Syllectuiii of I'ro-
copiu.s, tlic first rcstiiif^- place of IJeli-
sarius in his march from Caput Vada
to Cartilage. Tho natives assured the
author that hetween this place and El-
Ujcni the remains of tlie ancient jiavcd
road can easily be traced. The stone
itself is of the youngest geological for-
mation, belonging to the raised coast-
beaches found at from 60 to 180 metres
above the present level of the Mediter-
ranean. It is a somewhat fine-grained
marine shell-limestone, with an admix-
ture of siliceous sand full of fossil shells.
Such a material is worked with the
utmost facility ; indeed, it may be cut
with an axe, but it is not susceptible
of being dressed with the same precision
as more compact stone. The conse-
quence is that the masonry is far inferior
to the finest specimens of Roman work
in Africa. Mortar has been plentifully
used between the joints, and the stones
are neither as large nor as closely fitted
as usual ; the average dimensions are —
length 0'96 metre, and height of courses
0'51 metre.
Another feature of the construction
of this building, never seen in others
of the best period of Roman art, is the
manner in which the appearance of
nearly all the stones has been sj^oilt by
triangular lewis holes being cut in their
extcriur faces, for the purpose of rais-
ing them into position. This gives
the masonry a very slovenly appear-
ance.
The town of Thysdrus, on the S. of
the amphitheatre, the site of which is
clearly visible from the upper walls of
the structure, remains to be unearthed.
Judging from the position of the Arab
village, it is probable that the walls of
the old town will be found from 3 to
4'50 metres below the present surface.
Fragments of marble and pottery are
seen everywhere.
The traveller can make a short ex-
cursion from El-Djera to the ruins of
RouGA, 0, known as Caraga, or can take
the carriage road to Ksour-es-Sif, 29
kil., walk to Sallecta, and then drive
to Mahadia, 12 kil. farther, whence he
can take the steamer either to Sfax or
Susa. Susa is the best place from which
to make an excursion to Kerouan.]
12 m. farther on is Monastir, the
lluspiiia of the Romans, an<i tlie Mis-
tccr of the Arabs. It is situated on
a ])roniontory, with a few small islands
lying olf it, which aflbrds some shelter
from the N.W. winds. A quay and
custom-house have been built by the
French. To the S.E. is an extensive
spit of shallow and dry banks, ex-
tending 10 m. from the coast, at the ex-
tremity of which are the Kuriat islands.
To the N. of the landing-place is an
Arab fort, the Bordj el-Kebir, and a
country house belonging to the family
of the late Si Osman of Tunis, a Greek
renegade. The three islands off the
point are Djezirat el-Hammam, el-Gha-
damsi or the Tonnara, and El-Oustani.
The town is about a mile from the
shore, connected with it by a good car-
riage road ; it is of the usual Tunisian
type, surrounded by a crenellated wall,
strengthened by a citadel, which Guerin
believes to have given its name to the
place. El-Bekri mentions the fact that
it contained lodgings for a number of
holy men who had quitted their families
to seclude themselves from the world.
En-Nasri calls it " the best of sejml-
chres and the worst of habitations," in
allusion to the tombs of Imam ibn
Yoonus and El-Mazeri, learned Moham-
medan doctors, which it contains.
The country around is extremely
fertile, and contains fine olive groves,
the principal wealth of the district.
Date trees commence to be seen here,
and ripen their fruit, which they do
not farther N.
After leaving Monastir the steamer
rounds Mas I) hnas, the ancient Thapsus,
celebrated for the decisive victory which
Civsar won under its walls against
Scipio and Juba I., and anchors at
Mahadia, 31 m. from Monastir.
This is the site of Turris Hannihalis,
or country seat of Hannibal, whence
he is said to have embarked after his
flight from Carthage. The modern
city, at one time the seaport of Kerouan,
was built in 912 by Obeidulla el-
Maliadi, a descendant of Ali, Khalifa
of the West, whence its name. It is
frequently called Africa in ancient
chronicles. This place is interesting
to Englishmen as being the scene of
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 33. SALEKTA
323
the very first expedition against North
Africa in whicli we took a jiart. It is
thus described by Froissart and Holin-
shed : —
" In the thirteenth year of the reign
of Richard II. [1390] tlie Christians
took in hand a journey against tlie
Saracens of Barbary, through the suit
of the Genoese, so that there went a
great number of lords, kniglits, and
gentlemen of France and England, the
Duke of Bourbon being their general.
Out of England there went John de
Beaufort, bastard son to the Duke of
Lancaster, also Sir John Hussell, Sir
John Butler, Sir John Harcourt, and
others. They set forward in the latter
end of the thirteenth year of the king's
reign and came to Genoa, where they
remained not very long, but that the
galleys and other vessels of the Genoese
were ready to pass them over into
Barbary, and so aljout inidsummur in
the beginning of the fourteenth year of
the king's reign, the whole army being
embarked, sailed forth to the coast of
Barbar)', where, near to the city of
Africa, they landed, at whifh instant
the English archers stood all the com-
pany in good stead witli tlieir loTig
bows, beating back the enemy from the
shore, which came down to resist their
landing. After they had got to land
they environed the city of Africa,
called by the Moors Maliadia, with a
strong siege, but at length, constrained
by the inteniperancy of the scalding
air in that hot country, breeding in
the army sundry diseases, they fell to a
composition on certain articles to be
performed in behalf of the Saracins,
and so, sixty-one days after their arrival,
they returned home."
Mahadia is situated on a narrow
promontory extending about a mile to
the E. ; it has anchorage to the N. and
S. sides according to the direction of
the wind, but it is entirely cxjjosed to
the E. The Sduthern side is that gener-
ally used, and a small harbour has been
made there, which shelters coasting eraft
in all weather. This place hius risen
from its ruins in a remarkable manner
since the French occupation ; the old and
dilapidated ramjjarts have been jiulled
down, and their material used for the
breakwater of the harbour ; so that
now the town is thoroughly ventilated
from every direction. The Arab quar-
ter, on the N. of the promontory,
remains untouched, but a new one,
containing many important buildings,
including barracks for the Frencli
troops, is springing up to the S.W.
At the extreme E. of the cajic is the
old Si)anish citadel. This was recently
a mere ruin, now it has been thoroughly
repaired, and forms not only a pre-
cious monument of the past, but excel-
lent quarters for the French command-
ant. It rose within the fortified
position which occupied the entire
eastern part of the promontory, and
was admirably chosen both for defence
and on sanitary conditions, being sur-
rounded by the sea on three sides.
Under its walls is an ancient Cuthon
or harbour, in a perfect state of pre-
servation. It is a rectangle excavated
out of the rock, about 147 metres long
by 73 broad, with an opening to the sea
of about 13, once no doubt secured
by a chain. This was very probably
of Pluenician origin, but the retaining
walls show signs of reconstruction, in
which old Roman columns and stones
have been used.
A large number of PhoMiician tombs
may be visited both to the N. and S.
of the town.
Leaving Mahadia the steamer pas-sea
Salekta, the Si/l/cdum of Brocopius, the
first stage of the march made by Beli-
sarius from Caput Vada to Carthage.
The lamiing-place of the Byzantine
army was at the modern Kapoudiah,
or Ras Khadidja, a low rmky point
11 m. farther to the S.E., on which is
built a remarkable tower nearly 49
metres high.
The voyager, however, will sec no-
thing of tiiis coast, as the vessel has
to give a wide berth to the extensive
banks which surround tlie Kerkena
Islands, the Circina- Iiixiila: of the
Romans. The princij>al ones are
Clifrka or liamhh to the K. and
(Htnrha to the W. They are low, and
covered with date and olive trees.
Cereals are grown in .some places, but
the inhabitant.s, of whom there are
324
VOYAGK ALONG THE COAST OF TUNIS
Tunis
aliont 3000, live to a great extent on
tlio produce of the sea, and by making
mats and baskets.
The dangers of these islands have
been to some extent mitigated b}'
luminous buoys, which enables vessels
to go between them and the coast in
line weather.
Sfax is 116 m. from Mahadia. This
is the ancient Tnjihroura, and the most
important city in the regency, alter
Tunis. The modern name is said to be
derived from the Arabic word for a
cucumber. It has a population of
42,000, of whom 2000 are Europeans,
and of the latter 1200 are Maltese.
The anchorage is at least 2 m.
from the shore, and there is a rise and
fall of 6 ft. in the tide at springs ; at
Gabes the rise is 8 ft. The lesser Syrtis
is almost the only place in the Mediter-
ranean where there is any tide at all.
Sfax may be said to consist of three
distinct portions. The European town
to the S., along the seashore, in which
many important improvements are
being carried out bj' the municipality,
such as roads, piers, etc. ; then comes
the Arab quarter, surrounded by a pic-
turesque wall flanked by towers, some
round and others square ; and beyond
this again the French military camp.
The distinctive feature of Sfax is
the suburb, consisting of gardens and
country houses, which extends for 6 or
8 kil. to the N. and W. Nearly every
family has an orchard or garden, with
a little house in it, where the owner
passes at least the summer, frequently
the entire year, riding to town and
out again every day from his work.
One of the most interesting sights of
the place is the series of several hun-
dred bottle-shaped reservoirs for collect-
ing rain-water, within a walled en-
closure almost as large as the Arab
town itself.
This is the only place on the coast
where there was anything like a serious
resistance to the French.
By the end of May ISSl the whole
country was in a state of revolution ;
and the fanaticism of the people of
Sfax was thoroughly excited against
Christians in general, but against the
French in jiarticular, who, however,
had fewer representatives amongst
the European colony than any other
nation.
About the 25th of the month the
Bey proposed to man the forts with
Tunisian soldiers ; this excited the sus-
picion of the populace, who, on the
28th, broke out and proclaimed a
Jehad, or holy war. Almost all the
Europeans went on board French men-
of-war, or other vessels in the roads.
The ironclad Alma, and the postal-
steamer Mustafa, arrived on the 29th
with 1500 Tunisian soldiers, but it was
found inexpedient to land them. In
the evening H.M.S. Monarch and
Condor arrived, to the great satisfac-
tion of the British community.
On the afternoon of the 5th July
the bombardment commenced by the
French gunboats and two ironclads ;
the Sfaxiots returned the fire as best
the}' could, but entirely without effect ;
desultory firing continued for more than
a week. On the 14th of July more
French vessels arrived, and there was
now a squadron of four gunboats and
nine ironclads. On the 15th the bom-
bardment commenced in earnest ; on
the 16th the boats were sent on shore,
under cover of the ships' guns, and a
landing was effected, though not with-
out some loss ; the Kasba was occu-
pied by 8 A.M., every house in the
town was broken open and ransacked,
the doors in the markets, mended with
wood, unpainted like the rest, bear
witness to the fact at the present day.
By the middle of August the town had
resumed its usual quietness, and the
French soldiers were busily engaged in
clearing away the ruins and repairing
the damage caused by the bombard-
ment. The town had to paj' a war
indemnity of £250,000, and an inter-
national commission was formed to re-
compense Europeans for the losses they
had sustained. The Arabs of the town
soon returned to their occupations, but
the Bedouins fled to Tripoli, leaving the
whole of the southern portion of the
Regency nearly depopulated. They did
not return for several years.
This is one of the centres of the
sponge trade.
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 33. PKOrOSKD INLAND SEA
325
After leaving Sfax, the Italian
steamer proceeds direct to Dji-rlm, but
the French one touches at Gabes, the
ancient Tampc. Two- thirds of the
way from Slax to Gabes is the little
port of Skira, just ofjened to commerce,
which has been chosen by the Franco-
English Esi)arto Company as its em-
poiium for the exportation of that
hbre.
Before the French Protectorate only
one solitary building existed at the laml-
ing-place of Gabes, but now tiiis has be-
come an important military station ; liar-
racks for a large number of troops have
been built ; about forty other houses
have sprung ui> ; a jiier upwards of 200
metres long has been constructed, and a
considerable French town will soon exist.
Gabes can hardly be called a town,
like the other princi[)al jilaces on the
coast, but rather an assemblage of
villages scattered through a beautiful
oasis of palm trees.
The most inijjortant arc Dhara and
i'ifenzel, purely Arab towns, of no par-
ticular interest ; the houses appear to
be constructed, to a great extent, with
tiie cut stone and broken columns of
the ancient Tacajje. Before the French
occupation they were at constant feud
with each other, and a fort had to be
built between them to keep both in awe
of the Tunisian authority. The popula-
tion is said to be 16,000, of whom 400 are
Europeans, and of these latter 200 are
Maltese. The number of date-palms is
400,000. A considerable trade is carried
on in alfa, oil, and dates.
It is impossible, within the limits of
such a work as this, to go into full
details regarding the daring scheme of
the late Commandant Koudaire, for the
creation of an inland sea, by tlie sub-
mersion of the Sahara. Still it is
hardly possible, wlien speaking of Gabes,
to pass it over in silence. Tlie project
was conceived before the French I'ro-
tectorate, but it is hanlly proliable that
it will ever be carried out, now that its
originator is no more.
Between a place 70 kil. S. of Biskra
and the sea, exists an immense dejires-
sion, 375 kil. long, occujiied by tliree
cJioUs or salt lakes, all of which nre
below the level of the sea. The
isthmuses which separate them are of
varyin" heights, but lx)th considerabl}
above the sea level. The whole of thi~
area is .separated from the .sea by a
third isthmus, also considerably above
the Jlediterranean.
Some geogra|)hers assert tliat this de-
pression is the site of the ancient lake of
Triton, that it communirated with the
sea down to a very recent i>eriod, and
that partly by the uplieaval of it^
bottom, and partly owing to the differ-
ence between the (juantity of water
wliich entered, and tlie amount of
evajioratioii and absorption, the sea
gradually disappeared, leaving the
existing chotts the only evidence of the
former condition of things.
Others maintain that there never was
an inland sea here at all, and that the
Tunisian chotts have the same origin
as tiie more elevated Sebkhas of Algeria,
the salt therein existing entirely from
tiie washing of tlie higher ground by
rain, which has no means of exit except
by evaporation.
The (juantity of water necessary to
Hood this depressed area would be 193
milliards of cubic metres. M. Kou-
daire ])roposed to cut through tin
narrowest j>ortion of the inland isth-
muses, thus leaving the three basins
prepared to receive the waters of the
Mediterranean. He then intended to
cut a canal between it anil tiie sea,
about 15 kil. N. of Gabes, at a jilace
where the work would be facilitated by
tlie jiresence of another small ehott,
and by the depression through which
the Oued el-Meiah flows into the sea.
There is no reason to imagine that
at the present day tliere can be any
insuperable difliculties in carrying out
such a project, except that of obtainiuL:
the necessary amount of capital ; bui
it is difficult to conceive any apjireci-
nble advantages as likely to result from
it. There might ]>erliaps be som^-
slight niodifieatioii of climate, though
the area which tliis sen would occupy
would hardly l>e larger in jiroportioii
to the rest of the Saliani than n single
spot on the traditional nanther's skm.
Sni[)s also might \n- al>le to circulate,
but in a region which produces nothing
save dates ; and many groves of these
326
nOUTK 33. VOYAGK ALONG THIO COAST OF TUNIS
Tunis
invaluable trees wouLl ccrtiiiiily be sacri-
liced to produce a very doulttlul Ijeuelit
to huniaiiity.
The company which was got up for
the creation ot an iidand sea received
important concessions from the Tunis-
ian Government, authorising it to
create a port at Oued el - Melah,
and to sink a number of artesian
wells. One has already been finished ;
it is delightful to witness the column
of water it throw^s up into the air,
equal to 10,000 tons a day, a quantity
sulhcient to redeem 600 hectares ot
land from sterility, and irrigate 60,000
palm trees. This is the true solution
of the story of an inland sea, a sea of
verdure and fertility, caused by the
multiplication of artesian wells, which
never fail to bring riches and prosperity
in their train.
After leaving Gabes the steamer
crosses tlie Syrtis Minor and anchors
olf Djerba, immortalised by Homer
as the " Island of the Lotophagi."
The distance is 36 m., but the sea
is so shallow that vessels cannot ap-
jiroach nearer than 4 m. At that dis-
tance a light vessel has been stationed
by the Compagnie Transatlantique, and
passengers, by the Italian steamers
at least, can generally be taken on
shore in the steam launch belonging to
the agent ; but even thus they must
look well after the tide, as at dead low
water the smallest boat cannot ap-
proach the shore. The rise and fall is
7 ft.
The population of the island is about
35,000, of whom 360 are Europeans,
and 300 of these are Maltese. There
is a large Jewish communitj^, who in-
habit two separate villages, Harat cl-
Kcbira, close to the capital, and Harat
es-Sogheira, nearer the centre of the
island. The Mohammedans are to a
great extent of Berber origin, and some
of them are Wahabite, professing the
tenets of the Beni Jl'zab in Algeria.
Djerba is mentioned by many ancient
writers. Herodotus and Eratosthenes
call it the Island of the Lotophagi ;
Strabo and Pliny, Meninx ; Scylax,
Brachion; Aurelius Victor (3d century)
mentioning the fact of two Emperors,
Gallius and Volusianus, liaving been
raised to the purple liere, gives both
the second of these, and that used at
the present day, Creati in insula Men-
inge qwc nunc Girba dicilur.
Much controversy has arisen regard-
ing the lotus of the Otlyssey. "Now
whosoever did eat the honey-sweet fruit
of the lotus had no more wish to bring
tidings nor to come back, but tliere he
chose to abide with the lotus -eating
men, ever feeding on the lotus, and
forgetful of his homeward way." Most
writers have been content to follow
Shaw, who identifies it as the Seedra
of the Arabs, or the Ziziphus lotus of
botanists, a fruit which in its wild state
is hardly eatable, and even when culti-
vated is quite unworthy of immortality,
a fruit moreover which does not exist
upon the island at all. It seems un-
necessary to go out of one's waj' to
search for the Homeric food, the island
is covered with it, no greater blessing
than it was ever bestowed by Providence
on man, and no other fruit is so all-
sufficient for human sustenance as the
" honey-sweet " lotus of the ancients,
the Date of the modern Arab.
The ordinary landing-place at Djerba
is on the N. side of the island, close to
the modern capital Houmt es-Souk ; a
good pier has been built, and a carriage
road made to the town. Close to the
former is the old fort, Bordj Kebir, the
scene of many sanguinary struggles
between Christians and Mohammedans.
Near it was the celebrated Bordj er-
roos, or pyramid of skulls, which was
seen and described by Sir Grenville
Temple in 1832. It was 20 ft. high,
and 10 ft. broad at the base, tapering
towards a point, and composed entirely
of skulls resting in regular rows on
intervening layers of the bones apper-
taining to the bodies. These, no doubt,
were the remains of the unfortunate
Spanish garrison commanded by Don
Antonio d'Alvaro, who were over-
powered and exterminated by the Turks
in 1560. The Yiceroj- of Sicily and
Andrea Doria were of the number, but
they managed to effect their escape
in a small boat. In 1848, at the in-
stance of the Christian community of
Djerba, supported by the consuls at
Sect. Ill
ROUTP: 33. EL-KANTARA
327
Tunis, this monument was pulled
down, and the Ijones interred iu the
Catholic cemetery close by.
The principal villages in Djerba are
Houmt es-Souk — the cii[iital, Midoim,
and Cedricn, 13 and 16 kil. to the S. E.
of it. Houmt Ajim, on the S.W.
coast, Gallala to the S., celebrated for
its jjottery, and Ccdouiksh, on the way
from the capital to El-Kantara. The
island is very flat, the highest point
being only 36 metres above tlie sea.
The soil is sandy but fertile, covered in
every direction with olive and date
trees ; the former are [tarticularly tine,
and fruit of various kinds is cultivated
in enclosed gardens round all the vil-
lages. A considerable trade is done in
sponges, which are fished up by Maltese
and Greeks ; the former use iron graines,
the latter frequently employ a diver's
dress. The jirincipal manufactures are
bornouses and coloured blankets, which
are in great request in North Africa.
Tlie most remarkable feature of
Djerba is the great liight or inland sea
which separates it from the mainland.
This forms a large lake of irregular
shape, the greatest length being 17
kil., and tbe greatest breadth 13 kil.
It communicates with the Syrtis Minor
to the W., by means of a narrow
strait, 2^ kil. broad, and with the sea
to the E. by a longer and broader one,
the narrowest part of which is 3 kil.
The channels in these are narrow and
rather intricate, but both they ami the
lake itself are perfectly navigable fur
vessels of about 200 tons burden.
At El-Kantara, about the nuddle of
the largiT strait, are the ruins of what
must have been a magnificent city,
]irol)ably Mcniiw, certainly the most
important place on the island. Al-
though this was accessible to trading
vessels in ancii-nt times, the water was
still sulliciently shallow to athnit of a
causeway being built to the \V. of it,
connecting the island with the main-
laud ; this probably had an opening to
permit the ])assage of vessels. Even
now it is possible to cross at low tide
over what is called the Tarik El-Djcmil,
or "road of the camel."
In the middle of the eastern strait is
a fort called Bordj Cu^tillc, connected
with the shore l)y a long sandy spit.
This is said to have been built by the
Aragone.se of Sicily in 1289.
The ruins of El-Kantara have not
been sulliciently e.vplored ; .some fim-
things have been found, and immedi-
ately carried away, but enough remains
to show that Menin.x must have been
a place of unusual magnificence. This
may be judged l)y the wealth of richly-
coloured marbles employed, capitals,
shafts, vases, sculptured stones of im-
mense size, broken sarcopliagi, etc., of
the richest varieties of coloured marbles
and breccias, all of Greek origin. These
testify to the riches and importance
of the i)lacc, and to the extent of its
foreign commerce.
Other important Roman remains
exist. Uou-Ghara, ancient Giffhfis, to
the S. \V. of the lake, and indeed every-
where on that part of the mainlaml as far
as Zarzis, the last port on the Tunisian
coast. In the map which has been
issued by the Depot de la Guerre, uj)-
wards of fifty places are marked with the
letters K. K., indicating the existence
of Roman ruins. They prove beyond
all doulit that this small inlaiul sea
was at one time a place of considerable
imiiortance, a haven of safety, and
perfectly navigable for the ves.sels then
in use. It answers in all material
points to the description which Scylax,
at least, gives of Lake Triton, and
there can be little doubt that it is
here, and not in the region of the
chotts, that we must look for the posi-
tion of that famous lake.
Zarzis is very little frecjueuted except
by sponge fishers. The anchorage is
protected by a natural breakwater like
that at Alahadia. The wilubrity of its
climate and the jiresence of sweet
water, not less than its geographical
situation, make it a better station than
Gabes for the troops intended to pro-
tect the south part of the Regi'ncy.
328
UOUTK ;M. BU8A TO KKROUAN
Ihmis
ROUTE 34.
Susa to Kerouan.
The easiest way of visiting Kcrouau
is by carriage from Susa ; the journey
can be done in 6 hours, and the
traveller, if not too fastidious, will
find accommodation which he can
]iut up with. There is also a horse
tramway. This belongs to the mili-
tary, but is now open to the ordinary
traveller.
The journey is over a desolate and
uninteresting plain, to the north of
the Sebkha of.Sidi el-Hani.
Next to Mecca and Medina no city
was, till tlie French occupation, so
sacred in the eyes of Western Moham-
medans. It was founded by Okba
ibn Nafa in the 50th year of the Hed-
jira (a.d. 670). He proposed to his
trooi)S to found a city which might
serve him as a cam]), and be a rallying
] joint for Islamism till the end of
time. He conducted them to where
Kerouan now is, and which was then
infested with wild beasts and noxious
reptiles. Ibn-Khaldoun states that he
collected around him the 18 com-
]ianious of the Prophet who were in
liis army, and called out in a loud
voice, "Serjjents and savage beasts we
are the companions of the blessed pro-
jihet, retire ! for we intend to establish
ourselves here." "Whereupon they all
retired peaceably, and at the sight of
the miracle many of the Berbers were
converted to Islamism. Okba then
planted his lance in the gi'ound and
called out — " Here is your Kerouan ! "
(caravanserai or resting-place) thus giv-
ing the name to the new city. He him-
self traced out the foundations of the
Governor's Palace and the great
mosque ; the true position of the
Kihlah, or direction of ]\Iecca, is be-
lieved by Mohannnedans to have been
miraculously communicated to him by
God.
Before the French Protectorate no
Christian could enter its walls without
a special oi'der from the Bey, and a Jew
did not dare even to approach it. The
sacred character of the city, however,
did not exempt it from its full share
of war and violence. Even the great
mosque lias more than once been
almost totally destroyed by the Mo-
hammedans themselves, though it wa.s
never absolutely polluted by a Chris-
tian invader.
When Tunis was occupied by the
French, formidable preparations were
made for the attack of the Holy City,
where a desperate resistance was an-
ticipated, and the occupation of whicli
was considered the only means of con-
trolling tlie fanaticism of the Tunisians.
Three Corps d'Armee were ordered to
arrive at once under its walls. The
first sent from Tunis, taking the route
by Zaghouan, was commanded by
General Logerot, under the superior
orders of General Saussier. The second
started from Tebessa, commanded by
General Forgemol, and was composed
of soldiers from Algeria and Arab
Goums. The third, under General
Etienne, marched from Susa. The last-
named found the gates open to him,
and entered the city without ojiposi-
tion. Not a blow was struck. The Gov-
ernor voluntarily suiTendercd the town,
the French force defiled through it
and encamped under the walls, one
regiment having occupied the citadel.
This is the only place in the Regency
of Tunis where Christians are permitted
to visit the mosques and religious edi-
fices, but to do this an order is required
from the French commanding officer.
The first Englishman who ever visited
them was Mr. A. i\I. Broadley, who
has given the best description yet pub-
lished, ^ and of which we have liberally
availed ourselves.
Kerouan is of an irregular oblong
figure, surrounded by a crenellated
brick wall, strengthened by towers and
bastions, and pierced by five principal
gates, and four posterns, now closed.
The chief suburbs are to the south and
west ; they contain several important
shrines antl three great cisterns. The
largest of these is generally attributed
to the Aghlabite dynasty, who ruled
towards the close of the 8th century.
It consists of three portions — a large
1 "Tlie last runic War— Tunis Past and
Present." 1SS2.
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 34. KKROUAN
329
polygonal reservoir of 64 sides, con-
taining 5800 cubic metres of water ;
a smaller one aliove, with 17 sides, and
a capacity of 4000 cubic metres, in-
tended to receive any i/ebris that may
be waslied down by tiie stream and
allow only the clear water to flow into
the main receptacle ; and lastly, two
reservoirs lower down, containing each
450 metres, from which the inhabitants
of the city may draw water. This has
been restored by the Frencli in con-
nection with the works for supjilying
the city with water from the Oued
Merguelil and the springs of Cherehira.
There are two other reservoirs, but in
a ruinous condition.
The names of the gates are Bab cl
Tunis, Tunis Gate ; ]i<ib cl-Khaukh,
Gate of the Peach ; Bab cl-Djilladin,
Tanners' Gate ; Bab el-A'a.sba, Gate of
the Fort ; and the Bab cl-Djidid, or
Xew Gate.
The Great Mosque of Sidi Okba is
the principal object of attraction, and
occupies nearly all the northern angle
of the town, it consists of a rectangle
tlivided off into three parts, \sl, the
Maksoura, or jirayer chamber, ex-
clusively reserved for worship ; 2d, the
vestibule adjoining it ; and 3(/, a great
cloistered court, from which rises the
minaret. The effect on entering the
maksoura is very grand. It forms a
rectangle consisting of 17 naves, each
of 8 arches, supported by coupled
marble and porphyrv columns, the
spoil of the chief Koman edifices in
North Africa. There are 296 in this
liortion of the building, and 439 in the
entire mosijue. The ca])itals are of every
style of Roman architecture, and some
have a distinctly Christian character,
the majority belonging to what is
known as the Composite order — a com-
l)ination of the Ionic and Corinthian.
The central nave is wider than the
others, and the columns tliere are
arranged three and three. It leads
from the Bab cl-Bihuu or " lieautiful
Gate" to the Mihrab or .sacrarinm.
The former is of beautifully sculptured
wood, with a long inscrii)tion in relief,
containing an extract from the Koran
and the record of its construction. The
latter has the archivolt suj)portcd by
two columns of alabaster sent by one
of tlie IJyzautiue einiKTors to Has^n
ibn Naiiinan in a.d. 689. The walls
are of exfjuisitely painted j)laster work,
through the opi-nings of wiiicii the
original mihrab of Sidi Okba can still
be seen when it is lighted ui».
To the right of this is the viimbar
or pulpit, 6 metres high, of splendidly
carved wood, every panel being of dif-
ferent design ; and near it is an en-
closure of the same kind of work, called
the Beit el- J-jIdn, giving acces.s to
several chambers, the room of the
Imam, and what ought to be the
library. It bears a long cutic inscrip-
tion in a single line, recording its con-
struction l)y Abou Temim el-Moez ibn
Badis, one of the Sanhadja Emirs, whose
reign commenced in A.n. 1015.
The shafts of the columns which
supi)ort the dome are of porphyry, and
measure about 12 '6 metres in height.
This great chamber is dimly but effect-
ively lighted by coloured glass in tlie
dome.
The court is surrounded by a double
arcade with coui»led columns, and under
it is an immense cistern occupying tlie
entire area. Gn the north-west side,
facing the Hab el-Hehou, rises the
nnnaret or minar, as it is called, a
high ([uadrangular tower of three
stories, each decreasing in height and
breadth. Several pieces of Koman
sculpture and inscriptions arc built
into the ba.se, and the steps are mostly
of slabs of marble from Konian build-
ings. A very line view is obtaiueil
from tiie summit.
The most striking neculiarity of tlie
nios(|iie is the graini simplicity and
cathedral -like aspect of the interior.
There is nothing little or tawdry about
it ; everything speaks U> the Moslem
of the solemn character with which he
invests his Jehovah.
Close to the m(>si|ne is tlie Zaotiia
of Sidi Abd el Kadir el-Djilani, whoso
confraternity has so many votaries in
North Africa, although its iie«d<|uarters
are in liaglidad. It consi.st-s of a lofty
cupola, with the usual cloisters, lea<l-
ing to a number of conventual cells.
The principal apartment is lighted by
stained glass windows.
330
ROUTK 34. SUHA TO KKKOUAN
Tunis
111 tlio (^'utro of tlio town i.s tlie
Djamaa Thelatha Biban, or Mosque of
Llic 'I'hi'oct ( Jules, oiiu ol' the most ancient
ill tliu city. The fai/ade is decorated
witli Cufie inscriptions recordin<{ its
construction by Mohammed ibn Khei-
roun el-Muat'eri in the 3il century of
the Hedjija, and its restoration in 844
of the same era. Its interior is a single
chamber suiiported by 16 Roman
columns.
Perhaps the finest specimen of
Moorish architecture within the city
is tlie Zaouia of Sidi Abid el-Ghariani,
who died about a.d. 1402. He was
one of the Almoravides {El-Marahbitin).
The hereditary governor of Kerouan is
one of his descendants, and guardian
of the sanctuary in which his ancestors
are buried.
Tlie entrance is a false arcade of
white and black marble, in which is a
square door, opening into an interior
court of two stories ; each side of this
court, on the ground floor, has three
arches supporting an upper colonnade.
The interior is divided off by ancient
columns. Beside the first arch is a
second, surrounded by an arcade, sup-
ported on Roman columns. In the
upper story are about 30 cells for
dervishes or other holy men.
In the centre of the town is the sacred
well El-Barota, supposed to have a com-
munication with Zerazem at Mecca ; it
is enclosed within a domed building,
and is the only one in the city.
Outside the city are many interesting
religious edifices. Near the Bab el-Dji-
did is the Djamaa ez-Zeitoun, or mos(jue
of the olive tree, a very ancient build-
ing. Not far from it is the conspicuous
Djamaa Sidi Amar Abada, built in the
form of a cross, and surmounted by
seven cupolas, the interiors of which
are decorated with Arabic inscriptions.
This is of very recent construction. The
person whose name it bears passed as a
saint, and amused himself by fabricating
gigantic swords, chandeliers, pipes, etc.,
covered with rude Arabic inscriptions.
One of these contained a curious pre-
diction of the French occupation. His
object appears to have been to establish
a reputation with posterity for being of
gigantic stature and able to use the fan-
tastic objects he passed his life in ac-
cumulating. He was greatly in favour
with the Bey, who even consented, at
his r('(jiiest, to bring up some large
anchors from I'orto Farina to Kerouan.
Half a mile beyond this, and to the
N.W. of the town, is the most import-
ant building of Kerouan, the Djemaat
es-Sehebi, wherein is interred one of
the companions of the prophet, Ab-
dtdld iha-Zemiia el-Beloui, whence its
familiar name, " Mos(iue of the Com-
panion." With him are buried, what
he always carried about him in life,
three hairs of the prophet's beard —
one under his tongue, one on his right
arm, and the third next his heart.
This has given rise to the superstition
amongst Europeans that he was one of
the prophet's barbers !
The Zaouia is entered through a
doorway near the base of a minaret, in
the angle of a spacious court. The
exterior of this minaret is faced with
tiles, and on each side of its upper
portion is a window of two lights,
separated by a marble pillar. The
roof is of green tiles, terminating in
a gilded crescent. The door enters
through a vestibule, lined with faience
and Moorish plaster work. A second
door from this opens into a cloister,
the arches being supported by marble
columns, and the walls decorated in
the same manner as the vestibule.
This leads into another vestibule
crowned with a fluted cupola, also
decorated with tiles, A'uksh hadida
work, and stained glass of great beaut}',
but not apparently of great antiquit}',
probably not earlier than the 18th
century. A door on one side communi-
cates with a mosque and two other
cloisters, surrounded by cells for mara-
bets and pilgrims to the shrine. Be-
yond this domed chamber is a broad
court splendidly adorned with tiles
and plaster work, and surrounded by
an arcade of white marble columns,
supporting a richly -painted wooden
roof. From this one enters the shrine
of "The Companion." It is about 6
metres square, and dimly lighted by four
small windows with coloured glass ; a
fine chandelier of Venetian glass hangs
from the dome, and there are the usual
Sect. Ill ROUTE 35. EXCURSION FROM KEROUAN TO KBEITLA
331
accompaniments of smaller lamps, balls,
ostrich eggs, etc.
The catafalque is surrounded by a
high grating and covered with two j)alls
— one of black velvet, adorned with
Arabic inscriptions, in silver, presented
by Ahmed Bey, and the other of coloured
brocade, sent by Sidi Es-Sadik Bey.
An adjoining chamber contains the
catafahiue of Abdullah-ben Sherif, an
Indian saint.
The whole of this mosque has been
altered from time to time, and almost
reconstructed. The upper i)art of the
walls of the shrine are in the worst
[)Ossible taste.
To the S. W. of the city is the Ceme-
tery, covering an immense extent (jf
ground, and full of the most inter-
esting Cutic and Arabic inscriptions,
which have not yet been sufficiently
studied.
Continuing to the E., and passing
the suburb of Kuhlciich, we come to
the Zaouia of the Aissaouia, near the
Tanners' gate. .Most of tlir natives of
Kerouan are alliliated to this powerful
confraternity. They ])ractise the same
mystic and revolting rites as at Algiers,
the guiding principle of which ajijiears
to be the utmost amount of self-inflicted
bodily torture rendered supportable by
leligious frenzy.
There are many other interesting
buildings in Kerouan, but the travcllfr
will generally be satistied with those
just described.
ROUTE 35.
Excursion from Kerouan to Sbeitla.
This is a journey in which some pri-
vation Tnust be expected, but tlie tra-
veller will be rewarded by seeing the
most beautiful, the most extensive, and
the best-preserved ruins in North Africa.
It can be made in a carriage, ol'tain-
able at Kerouan, but it would he better
to hire it at Susa. The cost of the
carriage with four hor.ses will be 20 f.
a day ; return journeys are always paid
for at the same rate. This includes
the food of the horses, but not of the
driver.
The traveller must provide himself
with bediling and pr<jvisions, as there
:ire no habitations on the road, the
population living in tents.
Kerouan to Hadjeb el-
Aioun . . .59 kil.
Hadjeb el-Aiouu to Oucd
Uilma . . .21 kil.
Oued Uilma to Sbeitla . 25 kil.
The track for more tlian 32 kil. is
over the dreary i)lain that isolates
Kerouan like an oasis. A few kil.
farther is a broken bridge and a spring
with a fondouk close by, where siielter
can be obtained. The scenery on ap-
jiroaching the mountains is heathlike
and more cheerful. The country ap-
pears (juite deserted, except by large
Hocks of shee[) and goats, and numerous
coveys of partridges. It is only at
nightfall, when the Arab fires are
lighted for the evening meal, that one
becomes aware of a considerable scat-
tered population living entirely in
tents. The track once again is on
lower ground, which is marsliy at all
seasons of the year, and after heavy
rains is impassable for carriages. The
camp newly formed at lladjib clAiuim
is now visible on the hillside. Here,
by permission of the Comniamlant, to
whom a written introiluction is advis-
able, shelter can be had for the night
and provisions purchased at the can-
teen. The country west of this must
have been at one time thickly ]>opu-
lated. There are remains of numerous
Koman villages, and cut stones of large
size are standing in all directions.
Oued Uilma, so called after a stream of
that name, is an abandoned French
camp, where there are a large number
of unroofed dwellings. The traveller
cannot expect to find shelter here.
There is an Arab settlement close by.
This is the site of the ancient Chilma, or
Uppidum Chilmaiu-nsc, whidi does not
appear to have played a very important
part in history.
The track then crosses n numltcr of
water-course.s, and then, winding round
the liill sides, reaches
332
ROUTIO 35. KXCUUSION FROM KEROUAN TO SBIOITI.A
Tunis
Sbeitla. Tlicro is no aceoinniodation
here beyond a lialf luinous and de-
serted I'ondouk. This name, like so
many others, is merely an Aral* corrup-
tion of the ancient one, Svfetula. No
city in Africa possessed finer specimens
of Roman architecture, and even as
late as the Arab invasion it continued
to be one of the most important cities
in l^yzacene.
Here took place the first great and
disastrous encounter between Christi-
anity and Mohammedanism in North
Africa, wlien the army of the Exarch
Gregorius was utterly exterminated by
Abdullali ibn-Saad, and so much booty
was taken that, according to the Arab
historians, every horseman got 3000
dinars, and every foot-soldier 1000.
One of the most remarkable features
of this part of the country, and which
evidently led to its selection as the site
of the ancient city, is its excellent water-
supply. Here the Oued Sbeitla, which
for a great part of its course is lost in
the sand, flows in a clear and beautiful
stream, never dry even in summer.
The form of the ancient city is still
perfectly apparent, and many of the
streets can be traced in their entire
course.
To the S. of the town is the Tri-
umphal Arch of Constantine (a.d. 305),
which bears not only his name, but
also that of Maximian, by whom he
was adopted. It has a single opening,
and the four Corinthian columns that
decorated its principal fa9ade were en-
tirely isolated from the walls ; these
have now fallen down, and lie in frag-
ments at the base of the monument.
The most important of the ruins is
the Hieron, so called, or enclosure, on
the N.W. side of which are the magni-
ficent remains of Three Temples, partly
attached, and together forming one de-
sign. It is about 92 metres in length
and 70 in width. It had on the S^E.
side, facing the temples, but not in
the axis of any one of the three, being
nearly 6 metres out of the central line,
a triumphal gateway of very excellent
design. AVithiu the gateway was a
large portico, the roof being supported
by shafts of the Corinthian order, and
communicating with a colonnade which
ap])ears to Iiave been carried round
three sides of the enclosure. On the
S. W. side was a series of shops built
against the enclosing wall. On the
opposite side was another entrance to
the Hieron, and two archways connect-
ing the iirst and third temples with the
central one gave access from a street
running along the back wall of the
three temples. The porticoes, each of
which was supported by six monolithic
shafts of great size, were on a sj)li-ndid
scale of design, and, judging from sculp-
tured fragments lying on the ground,
must have been of a very decorative
character. The paving of the porticoes
a[)pears to have been on the same level,
there being separate flights of steps to
each temple. The external walls of tlie
cellce of the side temples were enriched
by pilasters of the Corinthian order,
those of the central temples by engaged
shafts of the Composite order. The
surfaces of those attached to the walls
were raised and rusticated, giving a bold
character to the design. The entirestruc-
ture, about 36 metres from end to end,
was raised on a high stylobate of bold
design. The enrichments of the cor-
nices and soffits were beautifully chis-
elled, and owing to the extreme hard-
ness of the limestone, which was quite
white when cjuarried but assumed a
golden -brown tint after a lapse of
time, the decorative work is in a
fairly perfect condition. The Hieron
itself was paved with very large flat
stones, as smooth as marble. The
triumphal gateway before referred to
was enriched with rusticated engaged
shafts, corresponding w-ith those of the
central temple.
Wilmanns, writing of this place iu
1880, says: — " De fortuna civitatis
cujus ruinae et magnae et pnlchraejurc
ab omnibus qui cas viderunt celcbrantur
nihil scimiis."^
It is to be hoped that not only in
1 Since the above was written, Sufetula
has been carefully explored hy Lieutenant
Boyc, and the results published in the Comptes
liendus des Seances de I'Acadcmie des Inscrip-
tions ct BcUcs- Lett res, 1SS4, pp. 367-373 ; also,
in the Bulletin de Giograpltie et d'Archeologie
d'Oran, 1SS5, p. 114. Mr. Graham also has
published beautiful illustrations of it, see
Bihliography, 1SS5.
Sect. Ill
ROUTE 35. 8BK1TLA
33.3
the Hieion but in other parts of the
city excavations will be made. The
entire fa<;a(les of the three teni]ples with
their inscriptions, and probably much
sculptured ornament, are now buriud
in the soil, within a confused mass of
gigantic masonry. In other parts of the
city, the streets of which are clearly
defined, there is little doubt that ex-
cavations, judiciously conducted, would
be attended with surprising results.
The Amphitheatre is at the N. of tlie
city. It was circular in form, but is
now entirely destroyed.
Many other important ruins exist,
but they sink into insignificance when
compared with the temples.
There is absolutely no limit to the
excursions that maj' be made on horse-
back, but they sliould only \^c under-
taken by people in good healtti and
prepared to encounter a considerable
amount of inconvenience. Horses and
mules can readily be hired for about 4 or
5 f. a day, and local guides will l>e sup-
plied by the kaids of the various dis-
tricts, who are always courteous and
obliging, especially if the traveller has
letters of introduction to them. Ac-
commodation of the roughest descrip-
tion, often no better tlian an Arab
f/ourbi, is ])rocurable ; but the traveller
is sure to be rewarded, often l>y beauti-
ful scenery, always by Roman remains
of suri>assing interest. It is altogether
beyond the scope of such a work as the
present to give itineraries of such jour-
neys as are not likely to be undertaken
by the ordinary traveller.
APPENDIX.
LIST OF BRITISH CONSULS IN ALGERIA AND TUNIS.
As the Consulates of Algiers and Tunis are amongst the first ever established
by England, it may be interesting to give a complete list of the various
Consuls -General and Consuls, as far as can be ascertained. This has not
been compiled without much difficulty and research.
ALGERIA.
1580. John Ty-pton was certainly Consul-
General at Algiers prior to 1580. He is
believed to be tlie first native-born Eng-
lislinian ever appointed Consul. In 1585
Tunis and Tripoli were added to his juris-
diction.
1600. John AudeUay. The Pacha of Algiers,
in a letter to Queen Elizabeth, alludes to
this person, "who says he is your Ma-
jesty's Consul here."
1606. Richard AJline or Alien was appointed
^ Consul on behalf of the Levant Company.
In 1618 the Pacha complained to Sir Robert
Mansel that he had escaped to Bougie in a
British vessel ; that he had there enticed
the governor and several other people on
board, and had carried them off to slavery
at Leghorn.
1620. William Henry Ward. It is doubtful
whether he was a Consul, often described
as Residens in Latin ; or a mere resident at
Algiers ; his tombstone was as follows : —
Hie jacet sepultiis Willelmus Henricus War-
dus armiger et mereator Anglicamis Residens
in Argel, uhi decessit 4 die Mail anno
domini 1620.
1620. Richard Ford. A sailor appointed by
Sir Robert Mansel, to please the Dey, "a
common man well cloathed by the name
of a consull."
1622. James Frizell, agent to Mr. Leath,
deputy of the Turkey Company, appointed
by Sir Thomas Roe, in March 1622, "as
consul, on account of and at the charge of
the Turkey Company." He was still here
in 1643.
1646. Humphrey Oneby was Consul during
the mission of Casson ; all that is known of
him is that he died on the 18th July 1653.
1646. Edmond Casson, Envoy from the ■ Par-
liament for the Redemption of Captives ;
died at Algiers 5th December 1654.
1656. Robert Browne, died of plague at
Algiers, 1664.
1664. Captain Nicholas Parker, R.N., com-
manding H.M.S. Nonesuch, temporarily ap-
pointed by Sir Thomas Allen ; recalled 1667.
1666. Mr. John Dohson, appointed Consul;
he never joined his post.
1666. William Lear, appointed in succession
to Parker ; it is not certain that he ever
actually took charge.
1667. John Ward, a merchant at Algiers ;
relieved Parker on 2oth April 1667.
1668. Robert Crofftes, factor of William
Bowtell, appointed by Sir Thomas Allen,
but he never took charge. Ward continued
to act some time longer ; after giving up
the Consulate he was cut in pieces by
order of the Dey for having shot a Jew in
his presence, on the 20th July 1674.
1672. Samuel Martin appointed, but he did
not join his post till 1674. He ceased to
be Consul in 1680.
1682. Captain John Neville, R.N., tem-
porarily appointed by Admiral Herbert.
1683. Philip Rycant, appointed Agent and
Consul-General 23d April 1683; revoked
26th October 1684.
1684. John Erlisman, appointed 16th June
1684 ; died Sth February 1690.
1690. Laurence Wise, servant of Erlisman,
acted for a short time.
1690. Robert Cole, a merchant, was entrusted
with the Consulate by the Dey.
1691. Thomas Baker, who had been ten years
Consul-General in Tripoli, assumed charge
15th June 1691 ; he resigned 10th August
1694, and returned to Tripoli as Special
Envoy.
1694. Robert Cole, many years a merchant at
Algiers, appointed Consul -General 10th
August 1694. He died there 13th November
1712.
1712. Thomas Thomson, a merchant, selected
by the Dey to take charge on Cole's death.
He held the office till the arrival of his
brother,
1713. Samuel Thomson, who assumed charge
13th November 1713 ; he left for England
February 1716.
1716. Thomas Thomson again acted ad in-
terim.
APPENDIX
335
1720. Charles Hudaon, a merehant, aji-
pninted 8tli January 17'20. He went to
France for the benefit of liis liealth 24th
July 1728, and died at Montpellier 14th
May 1729.
1728. Edward Holden, partner of Mr. Hud-
son ; acted for liiin during his absence.
1729. Charles Black arrived at Algiers as
Consul-General 7th September 1720. The
Dey refused to receive him, and he left ou
the 26th of the same month.
1729. George Logie appointed by the Dey
to take cliarf,'e of tlie Consulate till H.M.
pleasure should be known.
1730. Charles Black sent back to Algiers
with a siiuadnin under Admiral Cavendish.
He was recalled in 1738.
1739. Edward Holden, who had acted in
17'28, was now appointed Agent and Con-
sul-General ; he died on the 25th November
of the same year.
1739. Mr. John Ford was appointed by tlie
Dey to act ad inUHm, which he did till
the arrival of
1741. Ambrose Stanyford, on the SOth Jan-
uary 1741. He died at Algiers 19th April
1752.
1752. Robert White, the Vice -Consul, as-
sumed charge.
1754. Stanhope Aspinwall arrived as Agent
and Coiisul-Geiieral 29th July 1754. He
was recalled in 1701.
1761. John Ford, who had acted in 1739, was
apiioiiited, but he died before leaving
England.
1762. Simon Peter Cruize acted as Consul.
1763. James Bruce, the traveller, arrived as
Agent and Consul-General 19th March 17i"i3.
He left to carry out his explorations 17tli
June 176.5.
1765. Robert Kirke assumed charge 17th June
1765 ; he was shortly afterwards recalled.
1766. John Le Gros was named, but the
state of his health prevented him from
leaving England.
1766. James Sampson wasappointed 29th July
1766; he arrived 10th May 1767, and was
almost immediately afterwards recalli'd.
. 1767. Hon. Archibald Campbell Eraser,
Consul-General at Tripoli, was sent to
Algiers, where hv arrived 16th October
1767. He hauled down his Hag and left
26th October 1773. He was s<'nt l«ick
22d April 1774, with the Mediterranean
Squadron, under Sir Peter Denis, but the
Dey refused to receive him. He was i>en-
sioned.
1776. Edward Bayntun, Agent and Consul-
General at Tripoli, was transferred to
Algiers ; arrived 23d April 1776 ; died Ist
November 1777.
1777. John Woulfe, his Vicc-Consul, assumed
charge.
1780. Nathaniel Davison arrived as Agent
and Consul-General 5th April 1780. In
consequence of the Dcy's arbitrary con-
duct he left in February 1783.
1783. John Woulfe again acted.
1785. Charles Logie ajijiointed Consul-General
20th May 1785. He waa peoKioned In
November 1791.
1792. Charles Mace appointed 1st June 1792 ;
arrived at Algiers 2<1 January 1794. He
was turned out by the Dey 20th October
179.5.
17%. Francis Vidan held charge of the Con-
sulate for a short time.
1796. Richard Masters arrived as Consul-
General 26th Nov.iiiUt 179t>. Owing to
the arbitrary eonduet of the Dey lie waa
forced to quit Algiers in January 1798.
1798. Isaac Bensamon, a Jewish bn>ker, re-
mained in charge.
1800. John Falcon, who had been Mr. Masters's
secretary, was now appointed, and n-ached
Algiers about tlie 1st June 1800. lie wa.s
turneil out of Algiers at a moment's notice
by the Dey, on the 23d April 1803, and not
again i>ermitted to return.
1804. Richard Cartwright waa nominated
Consul-General about the 12th October
1804, antl arrived at Algiers on the 8<l
January 1805. He felt it necessary to leave
Algiers ou the 22d February 1806.
1806. Henry Stanyford Blanckley ajipointcd
Agent and Consul-General 26tli May 1806 ;
arrived 9th OctoUr; recalled 24tli May
1812.
1812. Hugh M'Donell arrived at Algiers as
Pro-Consul Ist April 1812 ; appointed Agent
and Consul-General llth July 1814. He
left Algiers owing to the Iiey's conduct,
on the 29th January 1824, after which ho
retired on a pension, and died 23d June
1847.
1824. William Danford was Pro-Consul from
27th July till tlie 29th of January following.
1825. Morris Thomas acted fi-oin that date
till t!ic> arrival of
1827. Robert William St. John, on the Cth
December. He wa.s the last Agent and
Consul-General accrediteil to the Regency,
and was at Algiers at the time of Iho
French Conquest. He n'tirecl in 1851, and
diecl ^llortly afterwards at Pan.
1851. John Hell wa.s aiq)ointed Constil-Oonc-
ml on the 22il of Julv, ami died at Algiers
in June 1863, imniciiiately after his retire-
ment.
1863. Henry Adrian Churchill, CB., snc-
ceedeil 23d Ajiril. I,«ft 15th June 1S«7,
and died at Palermo in 1SS6.
1867. Lieut. -Colonel Robert Lambert Plav-
fair was appointeil Consul Ooneral In
Algeria 20th June 1867. His juris<lictii>n
was extended to Tunis in 1S85, ami so
ri-niained till 1889; lie was created a
K.C.M.U. in 1886.
336
APPENDIX
TUNIS.
1585. John Typton appointed Consul-Gencral
1626. Thomas Brown, montioned as Consul
by Sir Joliti Lawson 15tli June 1626. A
letter of Charles II alludes to his having
been " outed " during the Commonwealth
and restored Ijy him.
1650. Samuel Booth Rowse appointed under
the Commonwealth. He is mentioned by
the Levant Company, 1666, as having well
discharged his duty as Consul, was forced
from his Consulship, and anxious to return.
1656. Thomas Brown re-appointed by Charles
II. In 1661 Brown mentions in one of his
despatches that " Campion " is to succeed
him.
1661. Campion succeeded about the middle
. of 1661, and died on 1st October of the
same year. His tomb still exists in the
cemetery of St. George.
1663. Thomas Rowse appointed Agent and
Consul by Charles II on the 20th August
1663.
1662. John Erlisman assumed the offices of
Agent and Consul -General on the 16th
February 1662. He left Tunis on the 4th
October 1676. He subsequently died as
Consul-General at Algiers.
1674-75. Francis Baker, kinsman of Erlisman,
liad acted for him since the 5th January
1674-75 ; he now succeeded him. Charles
II, in his letter of the 27th August 16S3,
gives him leave to return to England.
1683. Thomas Goodwyn appointed Agent and
Consul-General •27th August 1683. The
last Act signed by him in the archives is
dated 4th October 1697.
1700. John Goddard appointed Agent and
Consul-General 20th June 1700. The last
Act signed by him is dated 22d May 170S,
after which date his chancellor, John
Waldeck, seems to have had charge of the
Consulate-General.
1712. Richard Lawrence succeeds the fore-
going on the 13th November 1712. Before
liis death, being very ill, he gave over
charge of his office to
1750. John Wrightman, partner of the newly-
appointed Consul-General,
1750-51. Charles Gordon, who assumed charge
3il January 1750-51. He delivered over
charge to Mr. Traill on the 10th April
1766. He and his wife are both buried in
the English cemetery.
1766. James TraiU assumed charge on the
above date, that of his arrival in H.A[.S.
CEolus, Hon. Captain Leveson-Gower. He
died in 1785, and is buried in the English
cemeterv.
1785. Robert Traill, son of the preceding,
acti'd until the arrival of the new Consul-
(Jcneral,
1790. Perkins Magra, in January 1790. He
hail several times leave of absence, when
Louis Hargreaves and Henry Clark acted
for him. He finally left Tunis for Malta
in 1802.
1804. Richard Oglander appointed Agent and
Coiisul-Goneral 26tli October 1804 ; retired
on a yiension 3d June 1824; and died in
the Isle of Wight, 9th April 1857.
1824. Alexander Tulin, the Vice -Consul,
acted at various times during the absence
of Mr. Oglander, and until the arrival of
his successor,
1825. Sir Thomas Reade, K.C.B., who was
appointed 1st .January 1825. He was the
first non-trading Agfiit and Consul-General.
He died 29th July 1849, and was buried in
St. George's cemetery.
1849. Vice-Consul Louis Ferri^re assumed
charge on the death of Sir Thomas Reade,
and acted till the arrival of
1850. Sir Edward Baynes, K.C.M.G., on the
26th March 1850. He died there 22d July
1855, and was interred in the Roman
Catholic cemetery.
1855. Richard Wood, now Sir Richard Wood,
G.C.M.G., C.B., was appointed Agent and
Consul-General 30th August 1855. He
arrived in Tunis 20th January 1856, and
retired on a pension 31st March 1879.
1879. Thomas Fellowes Reade, son of Sir
Thomas Reade; the last Agent and Con-
sul-General ; appointed 23d June 1879,
arrived at Tunis 10th September in the
same year. Retired on a pension 7th
January, and died in England 24th March
1885.
1885. On the death of Mr. Reade, Tunis having
passed under French protection, the ap-
pointment of Agent and Consul-General
was abolished and lieutenant - Colonel
Sir R. Lambert Playfair, K.C.M.G., Con-
sul-General in Algeria, had his Consular
jurisdiction extended to Tunis also, on the
16th March 1885. Thomas B. Sandwith,
C.B., was named Consul at Tunis.
1888. 5Ir. Sandwith was promoted to the Con-
sulate-General of Odessa, and on the 1st
July George Thome Ricketts was ap-
pointed Consul.
1889. He resigned in July 1880, whereon the
Consulate was restored to the independent
position it had pre^^ously held, and R.
Drummond Hay was appointed Consul.
APPENDIX
337
BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE MOST IMPORTANT WORKS ON
ALGERIA AND TUNIS.'
1556. Leo Africanus, De Totius Africae De-
scrijitioni, lib. i.x. The author was an Arab
of Granada, naiiicil El-Hassan, wlio visitnl
a great part of Africa ; was taken by cor-
sairs, aud bai)tizcd by Leo. X. Ili.s original
work was in Arabic, but it lias been trans-
lated into Latin, aud into nearly all tlif
modern languages of Europe. In English
it is to be fouml in ]'urch(ts's I'ilgrims,
vol. ii.
1573. L. Maruiol-Caravajal, Description Gen-
eral de Africa. Granada, 3 vols, folio.
Marmol was a native of Granada, served
in the expedition of Charles V against
Algiers, was taken prisoner, and travelled
during seven years and eight months over
a great part of North Africa. A French
translation was published by D'Ablancourt
at Paris in 1067.
1612. Fray Diego de Haedo, Tnpnrjmphia c
Ilititoria General de Argcl. Valladolid, folio.
A French translation by L)r. Monnereau
and M. Berhrugger was published in the
Retme Africaine, 1870, p. 3t)4 et sc/. The
author was a Benedictine monk, and dedi-
cated his work to his relative the Arch-
bishop of Palermo. It contains an account
of the martyrdom of Jeronimo.
1637. Rev. P6re Dan, llistoire de Barbaric r.l
dc ses Corsairc.^. Paris, folio. This gives
an account of the Baltimore captives.
1725. Laugier de Tassy, llistoire des Etats
Barbitrcsiiucs. Amsterdam, 12mo. The
author was Commissaire ilc la Marine for
the King of Spain in Holland. IIi.s work
was [lirated in English in 1760, under the
title of A Complitt; History of the I'iratical
States of Barl)iiry, and it has been trans-
lated into several other languages.
1728. J. Morgan, History of Algiers, to v^hicli
is prrfu-ed an epitome of the General History
of Barhary from the earliest times. London,
second edition, 4to, 1731.
1738.lThoma8 Shaw, D.D., F.R.S., Fellow
of Queen's College, Oxford, Travels and
()liserv(ttl(>ns rchitiinj to several jxirts of liar-
hiiry and the Levant. Oxford, folio, second
edition, quarto. Dr. iShaw was chaplain
to the Consulate at Algiers. This is one
of the most valuable works ever written
on North Africa.
1783. Major W. Dalrymple. Travels through
Spain and I'ortugal in 1774, with an account
of the SjKinish Exjwlil ion (O'HciUy'n) against
Algiers in 1755. London, 4to.
1791. Abbe Poiret, Voyage to Barhanj, or
letters written from tiumidia (1785-86) on
the Heligion, Customs, and Afanners of the
Moors and Bedouin Arabs, with an Essny
0)1 the Natural History of the Country.
Translated from the French edition of 178y.
2 vols, li-'mo.
1811. Thomas Macgill, An Account of Tunis,
of its Government, Manners, Cui'toms, and
Antiquities, esjtecially of its I'rodnctions,
Manufactures, and Commerce. Glasgow :
Longman, Hurst, Rees, Onne, and Brown ;
Svo.
1814. William Lithgow, Travels and Voyages
through Europe, Asia, anil Africa for I'J
years. Leith : Longman, Hurst, Rees
Orme, and Brown ; Svo.
1816. W. Janson, A View of the Present Con-
dition of the .states of Barbary ; or an
account of the Climate, Soil, Produce, Popu-
lation, Manufactures, Kaval and Military
strength of Morocco, Fez, Algiers, Tripoli,
and Tunis. Also, a Description of their
Mode of )yarfare, intersjiersed with Anec-
dotes of their Cruel Treatment of Christian
captives, illustrated by a new and correct
hydrographical Map, drawn by J, J.
Asheton.
1818. Fil. Pananti, A Geographical and His-
torical Narrative of a Jtesidenee^n Algiers,
etc., with Notes and Illustrations by Kdw.
Blaquiere. London, 4to.
1819. A. Salama, A Narrative of tJte Erpedition
to Algiers under the command of the Right
Hon. Viscount Exmouth. London, 8vo.
Mr. Salama was Oriental interpreter to
Lord Exmouth.
1826. W. Shaler, U.S. Consul -General at
Algiers, Sketches of Algiers, Political, His-
torical, and Civil. Boston, Svo. An ex-
ceedingly valuable and rare work. A
French translation was made of it in 1.S30
by Bianchi, which was used as a hainlbook
by the French expeditionary force that
took Algiers. Paris : Librarie Ladvocat.
1830. Edward Blaquier, Narrative of a Resi-
dence in Algiers. Lnndon, 4to.
1833. C. C. Falbe, Recherchrs sur rEmj>lacf-
inent de Carthage. Svo, with atlas of six
plates in folio. The author was a captain
in the Danish navy and Consul-General at
Tunis. In conjunction with M. Pricot de
Sainte Marie he published a map of the
Begency of Tunis, the only reliable one
existing prior to the French protectorate.
1 For (dl that has over been written regarding the F-astern Barbary .States, consult the
three last works in this list.
[Alijeria.']
338
Al'l'KNlUX
1835. Rev. Michael Russell, LL.D., D.C.L.,
aftcrwarti.s Hisliop of Gla.sj;ow and Gallo-
way, Jiistnry and J'rcsenl Cmulilinn of the
ISarhary Skites. Edinburgh, 12nio.
1835. Sir Grenville Temple, Excursions in
the MvditcrriDindi : Algiers and Tunis.
London: launders and Utley ; 2 vols. 8vo.
An admirable and scliolarly account of his
journeyinfjs in the two countries during
1832-3S. The original drawings niade dur-
ing his exiiedition are numerous and of
great interest. One of tlieni was i)ublished
in the work above quoted, and thirteen
otiiers in The Shores and Islamls of the
Mediterranean, Rev. G. N. Wright.
London : Fisher and Son ; 183'.), 4to. The
originals are in the pos.session of Sir
Lambert Playfair.
1837. Thomas Campbell (the Poet), Letters
from the .South durintj his lUsidence in
Algeria. London, 2 vols. 8vo.
1838. Bureau de la Malle, Voyages dans Ics
Unji'iici'x tie 'iiinis et d' Alger, jwr I'eysonncl
ct Jh'f:foiit((incs. Paris : Librarie de Giele ;
2 vols.
1841. Mrs. Broughton, Six Years' Residence
in Algiers, 1800-12. London: Saunders
and Otley ; 8vo. Mrs. Broughton was
daughter of Mr. Blanckley, H.M. Agent
and Consul-General. The most valuable
part of this volume consists of extracts
from licr mother's diary.
1842. Colonel Scott, Journal of a Residence in
the K.<ii}ida of Abd cl-Kader, and of Travels
in Morocco and Algiers. London.
1844. W. B. Hodgson, Notes onNorthcrn Africa,
the Sahara, and the Soudan. New York, in
Svo. This work contains a bibliograi)hyof
works on the Berbers aud their dialects.
1844-54. Exploration Scientifique de I'Algerie
pendant Ics Annies 1840-44, Fublicc par
Urdrcdu Gouverncment. Paris: Iniprimerie
Royale ; 17 vols. A magnificent work,
illustrating the geography, natural his-
tory, arclueology, and architecture of the
country.
1846. Captain J. C. Clark Kennedy, Algeria
and Tunis in 1845. London: Henry Col-
liurn ; 2 vols. Svo. An account of his
journey through the two countries with
Viscount Fielding.
1847. Lieutenant Spratt, R.N., Remarks on
the Lake of Bcnzcrla in the Regewy of'Tttnis
in 1845. See Jour. Roy. Geog. Soc, vol. xii.
1851. Jos. Eug. Daumas, Les Cheraux du
Sahara. Paris : Chamerot ; Svo. General
Daumas acted as Consul of France at Mas-
cara with Abd el-Kadir from 1S37 to lS3i>,
and was subsequently attached to the
Bureau de la Guerre at Paris. He WTote
many valuable works and papers on North
Africa.
1852-56. Ibn Khaldoun, Histoirc ffes Berhers
ct dcs Dynasties Muslcmanes de VAfrigue
Septcntrionalc. Translation frangaise par
Ic Baron MacGlucken de Slane. Algiers
4 vols. The original work is a general.
history of the Moliammedan world, and is
unsurpassed in Arabic literature as a
masterpiece of historical composition. It
was printed at Hulac, in 7 vols, royal Svo,
in A. II. 1284. He was a native of Tunis;
taught at Tlem(;cn ; was first the captive
and subsequently the friend of Tijnur, and
died at Cairo in a.d. 1400.
1853. E. Pellissier de Reynaud, Description
de la Jti'gcnce de Tunis aivc carte. This
forms jiart of the Exploration Scientifiquc
de I'Algerie, in which work the author
took an active jiart. He wrote numerous
other works and jjapcrS on North Africa.
He was attached to the Bureaii Arabc at
Algiers in 1S:^3, and subsequently Frencli
Consul at Malta.
1853. Hon. Charles Snmner, White Slavery
in the Darhary States. London: Sampson
Low, Son, anil Co. ; Svo.
1854. John Reynell Morell, The Geography
and History, I'olitiad, SocUd, and Natural,
of French Africa. London, Svo.
1856. James Hamilton, Wanderings in North
Africa, cmnprising Scenery, Agriculture.
Slave Trade, etc. Several plates, Svo.
1857. Abou Obeid el-Bekri, Description de
I'Afri'pte Septcntrionalc. Tcxte Ai"abe,
publee jiar le Baron de Slane. Alger et
Paris, Svo. A translation by the same
author in the Journal Asicttique, 1S5S-50.
1858. H. M. Walmsley, Sketches of Algeria
during the Kahyle War. London, Svo.
1858. Eug. Fromentin, Uncle dans la Sahara.
Fromentin was a distinguished artist, born
at La Uochelle in 1820. He travelled in
Algeria, and published numerous articles
in the feuilletonof the Pays ami elsewhere.
He subsequently published the above,
which is superbly illustrated, and also
another — Une Annce dans le Sahel, 1859.
Paris : Michel Le\-y Freres.
1869. Rev. J. W. Blakesley, Four Months in
Algeria, with a Visit to Carthage. Cam-
bridge, Svo, with maps and illustrations.
1859. Charles Brosselard, Les Khouan, de la
Constitution dcs ordres religieux Mussle-
mans in Algcrie. Paris : Challamel ;
brochure in Svo.
1860. Dr. N. Davis, Carthage and her Remains,
heing an account of the Ezcavatiotis and
Researches on the site of the Fhccnician
Metropolis of Africa, and other adjacent
iilaces. Conducted under the auspices of
H.M. Government. London, Svo.
1860. Rev. H. B. Tristram, The Great Saliara.
London, Svo.
1862. V. Guerin, Voyage Archcolngigue dans
la Regence de Tunis. Paris, 2 vols. Svo,
with maps. This valuable work was pub-
lished under the auspices of Due Albert
de Luynes.
1863. Dr. N. Davis, Ruined Cities n-ithin
Numidian and Carthagenian Territories.
London, Svo.
APPKNUIX
339
1863. Through Ahjeria. By tlic autlior of
" Life ill Tuscany." London, 8vo.
1864. John Ormsby, Autumn Rumbles in
North Africii. London : Longmans,
Koborts, and Green ; Svo.
1864. Mcmoircs ik la Congrigation de la Mix-
siun, ditc de St. Lazare, vols. ii. and iii.
Paris, A, la Maison Principale de la Congre-
gation de la Mission, Hue de Sevres, U6.
Tliis work is printed for tlie exclusive use
of tlic congregation. It contains most
valuable CHnteniporary coiTespondence
from the missionaries of St. Vincent de
Paul at Algiers, from the beginning of the
17tli centuiy.
1864. Alphonse Rousseau, Annales Tunis-
iniitr.i ou aprrru Ilistori<iiie sur la liegence
(le Tunis. Alger: Uaslide ; Svo.
1865. Mrs. G. A. Rogers, A Winter in Algeria,
lS(i:i-li4. London, Svo.
1866. G. A. Sala. A Trip to Jiarbnry by a
niiniddbout Tour. London, Svo.
1867. Colonel Churchill, Life of Abd cl-Kadcr,
from his own dictation, and compiled from
other authentic sources. Crown Svo.
1867. Miss M. B. Edwards, Winter vith the
Swallows. London, Svn.
1868. Mrs. Lloyd Evans, Lust Winter in
Ahjn-iii. Lciidun, Svo.
1868. M. A. Daux, Rccherches sur Voriginc
-el I'emplacement des Emporia Phiniciens.
Paris, 4to.
1871. Lieut.-ColoneltheHon. C. S.Vereker,
Scenrs in tin: Sun nil South. ]-ondon : Long-
mans and Green ; •_' vols. Svo.
1872. Lady Herbert of Lea, A Search after
Sunshine. London, Svo.
1872. Hanoteau et Letourneux, La Kahiilic
et Ics Coutumes Knhiiles. An exhaustive
worlc f>n Kaliylia by Gentral Hanoteau
and M. Letourneux, Conseller a la Cour
I'Appel. Paris : Challaniel ; 3 vols, large
Svo.
1874. C. Home Douglas, Searches for S^lmmcr,
sliowing tim anti-ll'intcr Tactics of an In-
I'dlid. Lnndon and Edinburgh, Svo.
1875. George Gaskell, Algeria as it is.
London, Svo.
1877. Lieut.-Colonel (now Sir Lambert)
Playfair, Trarels in the Footsteps of Jirure
in Algeria anil Tunis. London : C Kegan
Paul ; 4to. Bruce the traveller was Con-
Hul-Gencral at Algiers from 1"()3 to 17<i5.
He snbseijuently made extensive cxjdora-
tions in Algeria and Tunis, and magniliceiit
architectural drawings of all the Honian
remains he visited, but he left no account
of his journey. These drawings arc in (he
possession of his descendant Lady Thurlow.
The author has ])ublished an account of
his .journey over the groun<l traversed by
Bruce, illustrated by facsimiles of his
drawings. This work is now very rare, as
the remaining copies of the edition were
destroyed by (in- in Kegan Pauls premises
in 18s:j.
1877. Edward Rae, liarUtry, the Country
of the Moors: a Journey from Tripoli
to the Holy City of Kairvan. London:
Murray ; crowu Svo, with maps and six
etchings.
1878. R. BoBWorth Smith, Carthage and the
Carthagcniiins. London: Longmans, Green,
and Co. ; Svo. A most careful and ex-
haustive study of ancient Carthage and
her two great<-'st citizens — llainilcar Barea
and Hannibal.
1879. V. Largeau, I^e Pays de Rirha Ourgla,
Voyage a Uhailnmes. Paris: Hachctte.
1880. Paul de Tchihatchef, Esjxigne, Algeric
et Tunisie. Let ties a .Michel Chevalier.
Paris : J. B. Bailliere et Kils ; large Svo.
1881. E. CoBSon, Comiwndium Florae Allan-
ticiie, sen Krpositio Methodica I'lantarum in
Algeria. Paris: Imprinicric Nationale (in
Course of publication).
1881. Alexander A. Knox, The New liay-
grouud, or Jl'nmlerings in Algeria. Lon-
don : C. Kegan Paul ; Svo.
1881. Comte d'Herrison, Relation iVune Mis-
sion Arehiologiiiue en Tunisie. Paris:
Societe Anonyine de Publications Perind-
iqnes ; 4to, with illustrations and a plan
of Utica.
1881. Louis Piesse, Itincraire de VAlgi'ria, de
Tunis ct de Tauger. Paris: Hacliettc et
Cie. ; small Svo, 7 maps. This excelh-nt
work forms one of the .scries of Guides
Joanne.
1882. Edgar Barclay, Mountain Life in Al-
geria. Loiiilon : crown -Ito, with S full-
page illustrations by Pliotogravurc from
drawings by the author.
1882. Association Fran^aisc ]>our VAtyiuee-
jncnt des Sciences. Coniptc Rendu de la
10c Session i Alger, ISSl. Paris: Svo,
1211 pp. ; maps and illustrations.
1882. A. M. Broadley, 77ic last Punic War
or Tunis Past and Present. Edinburgh :
William Blackwood ainl .Sons; 2 vids. Svo.
The author was a barrister at Tunis, and
corresponilent of the 7'imw during the war
which resulted in the Trench Protectorate.
His visit to the Holy City of Kcrouan !■<
especially interesting.
1882. Ernst von Hesse-Wartogg, Tunis: 7'A.
Ixtnd and the People. Ti-insTatfil from the
German. Lomlon : Chatto and Wiiidus ;
Svo, illustrations.
1884. Charles Tissot, deographic Comixiri'r rf,
la I'rorinee Jtomainr d' .ifrigue. Tome
Premier, Geognijihie Physi(|ue — Geogra-
phie Histori<iue — Chorograpliie. Paris:
Iinprimerie Nationale; 'Ho.
1884. Lieut.-Colonel (now Sir Lambert)
Playfair, 77i<' Scourge of Chrislrndian:
Ann(ds of /(ri7i.s/i relatioiui with Algiers
]irior to the Frrnrh Coniiuest. I><indon :
Smith, Elder, and Co. ; Svo, with illustra-
340
Al'I'lONOIX
tioiiH. AIkici's i.s tlio linst Consulate ever
cstablislietl by England. A nearly com-
plotc collection of the correspondence of
diplomatic agents and consuls, and royal
letters from KiOO, are pieservcd in the
Puldie Heeord Ollicc. There is a break
during the Commonwealth, but tlie letters
of this period exist in the Kavvlinson
MSS. in the Bodleian. It is principally
from these sources that the author has ob-
tained his information. The gnat interest of
the ■Work i.s the subject of Christian slavery.
1885. Rev. Alexander A. Boddy, Tn Kainrnii
till'. lIMji; Scenes hi Mahiimmcdan Africa.
London : Kegan Paul, Trench, and Co. ;
liost 8vo, maps and illustrations.
1885. Alexander Graham, F.R.I.B.A., He
■tariiiis of the lioman Occupation in N.
Africa, with special reference to Algeria.
Illustrated. Trans. Royal Inst. Brit.
Architects. New series, vol. i.
Also another paper, by the same author
and on the same subject, in 1800, with
special reference to Tunisia, both most
valuable and instructive papers.
1889. Georges Balut, Indimteur Tuni/iitn,
containing much interesting information
regarding Tunisia.
1887. Alexander Graham, F.R.I.B.A., and
H. S. Ashbee, F.S.A., F.R.G.S., Tmvels
in 'runisiii, with a glos.sary, a map,
a Bibliography, an<l 60 illustrations. Lon-
don : Dul.'in an<l Co. ; Svo.
The Bibliograiihy has been completed to
1S88, published separately, and forms Part
II. of the general BUjliogrophy of the
Harhary States.
1889. Sir R. Lambert Playfair, K.C.M.G.,
Bibliography of the Harhary States. Part I.
Tripoli and the Cyrenaica. Supplementary
Papers of the R.G.S., p. 58.
1888. Sir R. Lambert Playfair, K.C.M.G.,
Jlibliography of the Harhary States. Part III.
Algeria, from the Expedition of Charles V
in 1541 to 1S87. Supplementary Papers of
the R.G.S., vol. ii. part ii. pp. iyO-430.
Contains about 5000 articles.
INDEX AND DIRECTORY.
Abd-el-Eader.
Ann-EL-K.\i)Ki!, 55, 276.
Abdi, Oued, 213.
ABDOUNA, DJ., 184.
EL-ACHAR, OUED, 30 1.
EL-ACHIR, 160.
AD DIANAM, 127.
ADELIA, 170.
Road for Miliauali ;
omnibuses meet evuiv
train fioiii Algiers, ^ lir.,
1 f.
EL- Ad JIB A, 1 58.
AFFREVILLE, 170.
Buffet at station. JJ.
deVaucla.ie, good, moder-
ate. Omnibus to Mili-
anali, li hr.. If.; to
Teniet-el- Alid to meet
morning train, 8 lirs., 6 f.
Carriaijes to Teniet, 20
f. I'^i' 'fi€lll.
EL-AFFROUN, 1 68.
Apia, Cape, 118.
ELAFIA, island, I16.
l'Agha, 108, 155.
AGHADIR, ruins of, 259.
EL-AGHOUAT, 153 ; palm-
gardens, 1 53 ; rocher des
Cliiens, 153.
AGOUMI - N - TESELLEND,
147-
Agiuc'Ultui{E, system ok,
86.
AGRIOUN, OUED, 201.
AHL KSAR, caverns at,
158.
Ain-Abid, 237.
Ain-Adgel, 164.
AiN - Amara, or el-
MARRAH, 2^1
Ain-Meimoun.
Ain-Arnat, 161.
AiN AYET, river, 316.
AlN-AZOUAGHA, 228.
AiN - BARBAR, copper
niiuL-s, 121, 126.
AiN -B ARID, 163.
AiN - Beida (Constan-
tixe), 234.
AiN-BElDA (Oram), 246.
AiN-BElNAN, 109.
AiN BESSEM, 164.
Ain-bou-Arreredj, 160.
ain-bou-dinar, 24s.
AlN-BOU-M'RAOU, 118.
Ain-Chegga, 218.
AIN-DRAHAM, 307.
lint' I ih:< I'acijkutetir.i,
].o,ir.
AiN-EL-ARBAA, 255.
AiN-EL-BORDJ, 234.
AiN-EL-ESNAM, 158.
AiN-FEKRINA, 281.
AiN-GHORABA, Caravan-
serai of, 264.
AiN-EL-GHORAB, 165.
AiN - EL - HADJAR, 200,
277.
AiN - el-Hammam, 147,
276.
AiN-EL-lBEL, 152.
Ain-esh-Shanla, 229.
ain-et-turk, 184.
AlN-FAKROUN, 234.
Ain-Fezza, 266.
AiN-GUETTAR, 229.
AIN-KERMAN, 164.
AiN - KHENCHLA, 213,
236.
Ain-Khial, 255.
AiN MAGHRAMMA, 2CX).
AiN MAKLOUF, 150.
AIN-MEIMOUN, 213.
Ait-el-Ahsen.
AiN-MELILA, 205.
AiN-M'KEBRITA, So.
AiN-MOKRA, iron mines,
126.
AiN-MOUDJARAR, 150.
AIN-MOUDJEBAR, 1 50.
AIN-MOULABER, 234.
AiN - OMM - EL - ALLEUG,
157-
AlN-OUERROU, 152.
AiN-OUSSERA, 151.
AiN-REGADA, 23*7.
Ain-Saba, 151.
Ain-Sahra, 267.
Ain-Sefsifa, 278.
AiN-SEFRA, 278.
AiN-SENNOUR, 299.
Ain-Skoun, 270.
AiN - SUEFRA, ravine,
247.
AiN-TAHAMUVUME, 299.
AiN-TALBA, 279.
AiNTASSERA, 160.
AiNTEDELtS, 249.
AlN-TEKBALET, 255.
AiN-TELLOUT, 266.
AIN-TEMOUCHENT
(ORAN), 255.
I/o/r/ lie Lomlres.
AIN-TOUKRLA., 142.
AIN - TOUNDA, ravine,
•75-
AIN-YAGOOT, 205.
AiOUN SAAD, 1 85.
AlOUN SRAKNA, 105.
AiOUNET - BOU - BEKR,
278.
AISAI. OUED, 145.
AlSSAOUI,reli,i;i()Usdances
in Algiers, 100.
AlT-BOU-YOOSUF. 145.
AIT EL-AHSEN, 14^).
342
INDEX AND DIRKCTOIIY
Alt-Iraten.
Ait - IRATEN, triho, tlic,
145-
AiWENAT, or AlOUN-ED-
DIAB, 250.
AKBOU, 204, 244.
AKBOU, iiuuiieloii of, 15S,
204.
Alfa -Fibre, 85, 151,
271.
Algeria, description of,
12 ; tours in, 112.
ALGIERS, 93.
Aissaoni, tlie
Aqueducts
Cemeteries
Churches —
English .
Cathedral
Notre Dame des
Victoires
Ste. Croix
St. Augustine
Jesuits .
French Protestant
Clubs .
Educational Estab
lishments
Environs .
Portilications .
Gates .
Harbour
Historical Notice
Hospital, Civil .
Hospital, Military
Houses
Jews' Synagogue
Kasba, or Citadel
Library and Museum
Lyceum
Moorish Houses
Mosques —
The Grand
The New
Djamiia Safir .
Zaouia of Abd-er
Rahman eth-Tha
lebi . .
Observatory
Palace
Population
Public Buildings
Shops, Bazaars . c
Streets and Squares
96
99
99
99
99
99
lOI
102
105
104
102
103
94
102
102
95
99
104
102
99
100
100
100
106
103
93
lOI
16, 103
94. 95
H.B.M. Consul Gene-
ral, Sir R. Lambert PLay-
fair, K.C.M.G.
Vice-Consul, Geo. W.
Crawford, Esq.
Consulate, 12 Rue du
Haniiua.
Algiers.
Hours of aUendancf,
8 to 11 A.M., 1 to 3 r.M.
Consul f^.&yl., Charles
Grellet, Esq., 3 Rue Ro-
lan<l dc Jjussy.
Hotels in Town. These
are convenient wlien the
traveller intends making
only a short stay.
//. d'Eurojie, the best ;
//. de I'Oa.iis, good ; Ijoth
on the Boulevard Na-
tional, overlooking the
sea. IT. de la Reyence,
an old established house
on the Place duGouverne-
ment, good ; //. des
Etrangers, Place Bresson,
excellent cuisine. Se-
cond class hotels : //. dii
Louvre ; de Paris ; de
Oerieve. Cost from 10 to
15 f. per day, including
attendance and wine.
Hotels at Mustafa
Superieur — all good. In
every way preferable for
a lengthened stay, the
higher up on the hill the
better is the air. In this
order they are : —
H. St. George. Open
November 1889, under
the management of a
Swiss hotel-keeper. 12 f.
50 c. per day, including
attendance and wine. 70
bedrooms. H. Kirsc/i,
From 12 f. 50 c. to 15 f.,
including attendance,
without wine. 50 beds.
Grand Hotel de Mustafa
Su})6rieur. From 12 f.
to 15 f. including at-
tendance, witliout wine.
HCtel d' Orient.^ HAfel
Continental} The two
last are nearest the town,
and are under the same
management.
1 These hotels liave not
furnished information regard-
ing terms. .
Algiers.
Pensions : Villa du
Paliicicr, kejjt by an
English lady, Mrs. Jen-
nings, excellent. L'OH-
vage, kept by an Ameri-
can lady, Mrs. Wli it-
combe, excellent. P.
Val Riant, Cainjiagne
.Jolly, fair. J'. Victoria,
L'Agha, comfortable
and chea]). P. Avglo-
Suisse, Village d'Isly , fair.
Tlie cost of Pensions
may be }iut down as a
little less than hotels, 8
to 12 f. a day, including
wine.
Restaurants. All the
liotels in town have
restaurants also ; in ad-
dition there arc Tuverne
Griiher, Boulevard de la
Republique ; Cosmopoli-
tan Bar, R. du Laurier —
sends out breakfasts and
dinners. Several Fish
Restaurants for dejeuner,
near the Fish Market, at
S. corner of New Mosque.
Cafes : Caf6 de la
Bourse; d'Ajipolon; both
on the Place duGouverne-
ment ; Griiber, B. de la
Republique ; and many
others.
Means of Communi-
cation. Always consult
time-tables of various
companies.
A. Co'mjMgnie General
Transatlantique, see p. 1.
I. Daily departures
from Marseilles to Al-
giers, 12,30 P.M. Return
daily, noon. The passage
by the fastest boats occu-
pies about 24 hours. II.
Port-Vendres to Algiers,
Tues. 6.30 p.m. Return
from Algiers Thurs. noon.
III. Marseilles to Orau
direct. Sat. and Tues. 4
I'.M. Return from Oran
INDKX AND DIKIXTOUY
343
Algiers.
Wed. and Frid. 5 p.m.
IV. Marseilles to Cette,
Port - Veudres, Cartlia-
gena {fortnightly), and
Oran, Tucs. 11 p.m. Re-
turn from Oran, twice a
month, vid Port-Ven<lres
and Cette, and twice by
Port- Vendres vid Cartha-
gena. The former, Mond.
5 P.M. ; the latter, 10
P.M.
Cost of Passage to Al-
giers, 100 f. first cliiss,
80 f. second class.
V. Algiers along the
coast to Tunis, Frid. noon.
B. Compaijnie deXavi-
gatio/i Mi.de {Tonache).
I. From Algiers to Mar-
seilles and CV'tto, Tliurs.
G P.M. ; fare, oO f. i'lc-
turii Thurs. p.m. II.
Algiers to Bone and
other iiorts on coast,
Tues. 8 P.M.
C. Soc, Gen. de Trans-
ports Mar it. d Vapeur.
Marseilles to Algiers,
Tues. and Sat. 5 p.m.
Return Tues. and Sat. 5
P.M.
Gabs. Every public
conveyance is bound to
jii-oduce a table of fares.
For a whole day (12 hrs. ),
20 f. ; half a day (6
hrs.), 11 f. By the
hour, in town, 2 f. ;
outside, from 2.40 to 3
f. By the course, from
1 to 7 f. according to
distance. See table.
Omnibuses. Good
services run in all direc-
tions. To J'liitrna Siiu-
Hire and Mustafa In-
ferieurevcTy few minutes.
To Mustafa Superieur
every ^ hr. (J to and \
past) ; return at i hrs.
To Colon lie Voirol every
hour. There are others
to Hussein J>eii, SI.
Algiers.
Eugene, Pointe Pescade,
El-Iiiar, etc. Fares from
lo c. to -in c.
Railway Station
(terminus of all lines),
on the quay. Passengers
for Mustafa Superieur
ni.iy get out at the pre-
vious station on the line,
that of VAgha, but
should arrange before-
hand for a carriage.
Theatres, Municiiyal,
in the Place Bresson, a
handsome edifice capable
of containing nearly as
many people as the Grand
Opera in Paris. Varie-
tifs. Rue d'Isly, good.
Societies : Societe his-
toriipie ; il'Agriculture ;
de Climatologie.
Architects : English,
Benj. Bucknall, Cam-
])agne Stejihann; French,
Geoi'ge (iiiianchain.
English Doctors: Dr.
Thomson, \'illa Belve-
dere ; Dr. Gardner, Villa
Regina ; Dr. Stanley
Stevens, Grand Hotel
de Mustafa ; all at Mus-
tafa Supi'rieur.
French Doctors.
Those most in the habit
of attending English
arc Dr. Stephann, 1()
Boulevard de la Re-
l)ubli<iue ; Dr. Bruch,
No. 3 line Arac'o.
English Dentist : M r.
Clark, Place Bresson.
Nurses. The nearest
jdace where nurses can be
obtained is the Holland
Nursing Institution, Villa
Estradie, Monte deCimiez
at Nice (telegrajihic
address, " Woodcock,
Nice "), strongly recom-
mended. Les Sieurs <le
Bon Secours, Rue de la
Fonderie.
Chemists : Obnrht,
Algiers.
Rue Bab-Azoun ; Mun-
net, Place du Gouverne-
nient.
Banks : Banque de
VAlgirie, Credit Fancier
el Agricole, Credit Lyon-
nais, all on the Boule-
vanl de la Rcjuiblique ;
Ciimjiagnie Algerienne,
Place Bresson ; French
Private Banker, M.
Deglaire, Rue Juba.
Cheques on England
cashed by Messrs. Burke
and Ihlacroix, Boule-
vard de la Rci)ublique.
English Merchants *
Messrs. J5urkc ami Dela-
croix, 4 Boulevard de
la Republique, agents for
Lloyds, for the British
India S.N. Company, for
Holt's ocean line, and
for Moss of Liverpool.
Travellers will probablj'
olitain better exchange lor
cheques and circular notes
here than at tlie banks.
Shipping Agents :
Stuart Bankhart, 36
Riiinpe Chasseloupe Lau-
bat ; Desseigne, 4 Boule-
vanl de la Pi'publique.
Markets : There are
markets for the sale of
articles of daily consump-
tion held every morning
in the Place de la Lyre
and Place de Chartres.
It is well worth while to
visit these before break-
fast, to sec the beautiful
fresh fruit, flowers, and
Vegetables just brought
in froiu the country.
The fish-market is hehl
beneath the Boulevard
de la Rei)ubli(iue, nearly
opposite the Place du
Gouvernement.
The market for Arab
commodities and jirovi-
sions is in llii- I'laco
d-isly.
344
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
Algiers.
House and General
Agents : J/c.v.sv.v. Dun-
h)) and T antes, 15 Rue
d'Isly. Tliey liave also
a grocery store and a
butcher's sliop. Send
provisions of all kinds to
villas at Mustafa, and
generally are most useful
to travellers.
Churches : Anglican,
see p. 96. Ckaj}lain,
Rev. H. B. Freeman.
Presbi/terian, Mustafa
Superieur, built entirely
at the expense of Sir
Peter Coats, see p. 98.
Information as to hours
of services posted up at
hotels and consulate. Ro-
man Catholic, Cathedral,
see J). 98 ; N6tre-Dame-
des - Victoires, Bab - el -
Oued, formerly a mosque,
built in tlie 17th century
by Ali Bitchenin, a Chris-
tian renegade ; Sainte
Croix, also an old mosque
near the Kasbah ; St.
Augustin, built in 1878,
in the Rue de Constan-
tine ; Jesuit Church, in
the Rue des Consuls.
French Protestant Tem-
ple, Rue de Chartres.
Synagogue, Rue Caton.
Mosques, see p. 99.
Libraries : Govern-
ment Library and Mu-
seum. Open every day
after 1 p.m. R. de
rilltat Major. See also
p. 102. English Circulat-
ing, in connection witli
the church. The terms
are very low, and visitors
are strongly advised to
subscribe to it. Univer-
sity, in the l^cole Supe-
rieur des Lettres, etc. , at
tlie Agha.
Shops. The best shops
are in the Bab-Azouu.
The bazaars where Arab
Algiers.
articles are sold are in
the passages leading from
the Place du Gouverne-
ment, the Rue de la Lyre,
and the Place de la Cathe-
dral.
Beautiful Arab Em-
broideries are made at
the establishment of
Madame Luce Benaben,
Rue Bruce. Old Em-
broideries and Curi-
osities of various kinds
are to be had of Mr.
Bucknall (architect),
Campagne Stephann,
Fontaine Bleue, Mustafa.
Monsieur Marlier, Rue
Jenina, makes exquisite
brasswork.
Booksellers : Gavault
St. Lager, Rue Bab-
Azoun ; J our dan. Place
du Gouveruement.
Photographers : Fa-
min. Rue Bab - Azoun,
unequalled for views ;
Geyser, on stairs leading
to Place du Chartres from
Rue Bab-Azoun ; excel-
lent for likenesses.
Livery Stables:
Mame, 24 Rue d'Isly ;
Moise, 43 Rue d'Isly.
Newspapers, etc.
There are many daily
newspapers published in
Algiers, the most import-
ant of which are the
" Mouiteur de I'Algerie,"
the " Akhbar," the "De-
peche," the " Vigie
Algerienne, " and the
" Petit Colon." Amougst
the reviews are, the
" Revue Africaine," jour-
nal of the proceedings
of the Algerian Histo-
rical Society, in which,
and in the similar publi-
cation of Constantiue,
" Recueil des Notices et
Meinoires de la Societe
Archeologique," and that
Algiers.
of Oran, " Bulletin de la
Societe de Geographie et
d'Archeologie," are many
valuable papers on Al-
geria.
Baths. Tlie best Eu-
ropean baths are, Bains
du \IIammu, Rue du
Hamma, next theatre ;
Bains du Square, Rue
Arago.
Moorish Bath : Rue
de I'Etat Major, open for
men from 5 I'.M. till noon
next day.
Sea Baths at the
Agha.
Club : English (see
p. 102). Members' sub-
scriptions, 125 f. per
annum. Season sub-
scriptions, 125 f. and 10 f.
entrance. Monthly sub-
scriptions, 40 f. Weekly
subscriptions, 20 f. For
rules and all other in-
formation apply to
honorary secretary or
manager at the Club.
Cercle cV Alger, Boulevard
de la Republique, en-
trance R. de PalmjTe.
Government Library
and Museum, see Lib-
raries, and i>a(;e 102.
Thomas Cook and
Son have a branch office
in the Square Bresson,
where tickets to and from
England may be obtained,
also for tours in Algeria
and Tunis, and in any
part of the Mediter-
ranean. Murray's hand-
books on sale.
Courier and Guide :
Joseph Bordj, care of
Messrs. Duulop and
Tustes.
Post and Telegraph
Offices : Head - Office,
Boulevard de la Repub-
lique. Branch, E. side
of the Place du Gouveme-
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
345
Algiers.
ment. Another Branch
at Governor's Palace,
Mustafa, oflicially stjied
Mustafa Palais.
Dressmakers : Madame
Adler, Paie dii Soudan.
Madame Philoch, 7 Rue
Rovigo.
Shoemaker: Moreaux,
Place (111 Gouveniement.
Confectioners: Fille,
2 Rue Bab-Azouu ; Reiffel,
15 Rue Bab - Azoun (5
o'clock tea may be had
at either).
Algiers to Aumalc
and Boil Saiida, 163.
Algiers to Cherchd
and Tipasa, 133.
Algiers to Constantine
by rail, 155.
Algiers to el-Aghouut,
147.
Algiers to C'oleah and
the Toiiibeau de la Chre-
tienne, 137.
Algiers to Cape Mati-
fou and the Ruins 0/
Rusgunia, III.
Algiers to Oran hij
rail, 165.
Algiers to Philippic -
ville, BGne, and Tunis
by sea, 113.
Algiers to Rovigo and
the Baths of Hammurn
Melouan, 140.
Algiers to Tenis by
Orleansville, 246.
Algiers to Teniet-el-
AhA.1, 141.
Algiers to Tizi-Ouzmi
and Fort National, 143.
ALLAGHAN, 204.
ALLALA, OUED, 246.
ALMA, 155.
I Intel d' Orient.
Alypius of TAGASTE,
Cjo, 300.
ameur el-Ain, 133.
AMIMIN, OUED, 127 ; liot
siniugs, 127.
AMINS, tlie, 16.
Auberge du.
Ammi modssa, 175.
les amoucha, 200
EL ANASSER, 160.
ANCHIR DAMOUS, 2 30.
ANNOUNA, OUED, 239.
AOUINET-ED-DIEB, 221.
AQU.a; CALiD.ff:, 169.
AQUiE TEBILITINiE, 23S.
AqueullTs: Roiiuiu, 134,
149 ; Am-el-Bled, 227 ;
Aiii-Chela, 227; Simittu,
301.
Arab Invasions, 32, 90.
Arabic Words, Glossary
of, xi.
Arabs, the, 8, 9.
EL-Arba, 163.
EL-ARBAA, 212.
L'ARBAL ((Ihakal), 179.
ARBATACH, III.
Arch of Constantink,
332-
Archeology, 89.
Architfxture, domestic,
95-
AREG, the, 19.
EL-ARIA, 1 98.
ARLANA, 297.
LES ARIBS, 171.
Army, the, 66.
AROUSA, OUED, 174.
ARRET OF ST. LUCIEN,
269.
Arret des Pins, 271.
Arret des Trembles,
269.
el-Arrouch, Oued, 1S5.
Arsenaria, 272.
Artesian Wells, iS, 219,
221, 326.
Arzeu, 272.
Arzeu to Mascara,
Saida, and gery-
VILLE, 272.
Arzeu, Old, 274.
el-assafia, 154.
ASSEL, DJ., 2CX).
elAteuf, 154.
atlas mountains, 13,
103.
ATMENIA, OUED, 1 62.
LES ATTAFS, 1 72.
AUBERGE DU 108 KIL.,
150.
Barral.
AUBERGE BELLO, 266.
AUBERGE DES DEUX
PONTS, 149.
AUBERGE DU N ADOR, 1 49.
AUBERGE DE LA BAMPE,
141.
AUBERGE DU ROULAGE,
150
AUMALE, 164.
lI'Ad de Roulage.
Diligence from Algieis
everj' second day, 17 hrs.
20 f. A better route
from Bordj Bouira.
ADR^S MOUNTAINS, 1 7,
211.
AUSUM, 244.
AUZLA., 164.
AZIB - BEN - ALI - CHERIF,
203.
AZIB-ZAMOUN, 143.
AZROU-N-TCHOUR, 245.
B
BAB EL - KHAMIS, arch,
262.
BAB TAZZA, 267.
BAB A ALI, 166.
BABOR, ascent of, II 8,
200.
EL-BADJA, 303.
BAHIBA - ET - TOWILA,
234-
BAHIRAH GOURNATA,
31 1-
Bahr en-Nissa, 119.
BAHRS, or GOUFFRES,
19. 74-
Bains de la Reine, 80,
I .S3.
EL-BALI, 213.
BARBAROSSA, the
brothers, 34.
BARBER, DJ., 176.
BARDO, excursion to the,
297.
LE BARRAGE, 1 72.
BARRAGES OF THE
KHAMIS, III; the
I'helif, 172 ; the llabra,
1 78 ; the Sig, 179.
BARRAL, 241.
346
INDEX AND DIRIX'TOHY
Bastion de France.
BASTION DE France,
130.
BATNA, 206.
lI&Lii ties i^lranfjcrs,
bad ; //. de Paris, said
to be better ; both quite
uiiwortliy of sucli an
iiiijiortaiit place.
Carriages can be hired
for Tiiiiegad, 30 f. ; and
mules for cedar forest.
BATNA, cedar forest,
211.
BATNA, OUED, 206.
BAUDENS, 265.
Beaufort, Due de, ex-
pedition, 117.
BEAUPRiiTRE, Col., mas-
sacre of, 278.
Bedeau, 271.
Beghra, Dj., 271.
Begradas, 233.
Beja, 303.
Bel Abbes Sidi, 269.
Bel-Hacel, 249.
Bel Kefif, 221.
belle-fontaine, 1 55.
bellevue, 249.
BEN AKNOUN, 106.
BEN ALI CHERIF, 60,
144, 204.
Ben Bechir, 303.
Ben Chicao, 150.
Ben HINNI, gorge, 1 56.
Beni Biz az, 118.
beni illilten, 245.
Beni Isguen, i 54.
Beni Ismaill 201.
Beni Manissar, 62.
Beni Mansour, 158.
Beni Melekuch, 244.
Beni Mered, 166.
Beni Mister, 267.
Beni M'zab, ii, 154.
Beni Ourtilan, 160.
Beni AAD, stalactite
caves, 263, 266.
Beni Amran, 156.
BENI SAF, 279.
Brit. Vice. -Consul, T.
O. Stewart, Esq.
No decent hotel.
Biskra.
Means of Communi-
cation by Sea : The
steamers of the Trau.s-
atlantique Co. touch
every fortniglit on their
way from Oraii to Ne-
mours, Melila, Malaga,
Gibraltar, and Tangier,
and vice vers/l.
Iron Mines, 279 ; har-
bour, 280.
Beni SALAH, mountains,
167 ; village, 167.
Beni SNOUS, mountains,
264.
Beni Yenni, 146.
Benian, 276.
Bent Saida, 315.
Berbers, tlie, 7.
Berd, Oued, 200.
BERDA, i.ot springs,
241.
Berdi, Oued, 158,
Berouagia, 150.
Berrlan, 154.
el-Bethom, 163.
EL-BIAR, 106, 213.
BiBANS, 159 ; see Porte s
de Fer.
Bibliography of the most
important works on Al-
geria and Tunis, 337.
BIDA COLONL&., site of,
147.
EL-BIOD, 278.
BIR-EL-ARCH, 162.
BIR ATTAKA, 311.
BIR EL-BOUITA, 3 1 8.
BiR REBALOU (Akba-
LOU), 163.
BIR ROGAA, 234.
BIR TOUTA, 166.
Birds of Algeria, 69.
BIRKET-EL-FARAS, lake,
229.
BIRKHADEM, 1 07.
BIRMANDRAIS, 1 07.
BISKRA, 215.
Ilnki Victoria, close
to the station, one of the
best in the colony. //.
du Saha7-a, au old house,
Boghari.
less favouraVjly situated,
cheaper.
Diligence to Tuggurt
every second day ; takes
3days; cost 100 f. Bad.
PAOE
Oasis of Gaddeclia .and
Filial] . . . 215
Fort St. Geniiain . 215
Market-iilace . . 215
Climate, M. Landon's
Garden . . . 215
Hot Batlis . . .216
Oasis and Date Palms 216
Bistra to Tuggurt,
217.
BISKRA, OUED, 215.
BIZERTA, 133, 311.
Hotel ill' France, poor.
Carriage from Tunis
20 f. a day.
BiZERTA, e.xcursion to
309-
BIZOT, 185.
BLAD GUITOUN, 143.
Blake, Admiral, at Tunis,
43-
BLIDAH, 166.
Hotel d' Orient, good ;
Hotel Gerond, comfort-
able.
Railway Station a
short distance from town.
Onmibus fare, 1 f.
Hospital for civil and
military, near the Porte
d'Alger.
PAGE
History . . . 166
Situation . . . 167
Gates, Hosiiital,Tlieatre 167
Cavalry Barracks . 167
Promeuade . .167
Ktiuhra of Sidi Abd-el-
Kader, 168.
Boar, wild, hunting, 68.
BOGHAR, 151.
Hotel Celestine.
BOGHARI, 151.
Hotel des Messageries
tolerable.
^ Omnibus to Boghar.
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
34'
Bdne.
BONE, 121.
Brit. Vice - Consul :
Abel Delacroix.
Iir,lcl iVOrienl, in the
C'our.s Nationale, good ;
II. de Cumhi^rce (Marius).
Rue (les Volontaires.
Station of Easlern Tele-
(jrajihic C'oiiqmny.
liail way to Constant ine
ami Tunis.
Means of Communi-
cation : A. ('oinp(t<jitie
Gen. Transallaidique. I.
From Marseilles, direct,
Sat. 4 P.M. Return
Tues. 4 P.M. II. Mar-
seilles riH Ajaccio to
Bone, Mond. 4 p.m. Re-
turn Sat. 5 P.M. III.
Marseilles viA Philipiic-
ville to Bone, Wed. 4
P.M. IV. To La Calk-
and Goletta, Mond. 3 P.M.
V. To I'hilippeville, Djc-
djelli, Rougie, and Mar-
seilles, Tliurs. 9 A.M.
VI. Along the coast to
Algiers, Sund. 11 p.m.
B. Cumparpiie Navly.
Mi.de (Touaclie) weekly
between Algiers and
liuue.
PAOK
Ilistory . . .121
Streets . . .121
S(liiaies . . . 123
Catlieiiral, Cliuiuh,
Mosque . . .123
Kaslia, Barracks, Mili-
tary Hos)]ital,Theatrc,
U<i)iian lU'iiiains . 123
Harl)our, yuays . 123
Excursions . .123
B6ne to Constantine,
by rail, 236.
Biine to Tunis hij
rail. 299.
BORDJ BENI MANSOUR,
15.S.
BORDJ BOGHNI, 1 57.
BORDJ BONI, 242.
BORDJ BOU - ARRE-
BEDJ, 160.
IlCitrl (les \'oi/(t(jeiir.>!.
Bou Tafsa.
BORDJ BOUIRA, 157.
llul^lih 1,1 l'oi.te,\n>UY.
II. dc la ('i)lonie.
Diligence to Aumale,
r. lirs.
BORDJ CASTILLE, 327.
BORDJ KAID EL
AK.HDAR, 228.
BORDJ EL-KALA, 127.
BORDJ MEDJANA, 242.
BORDJ MENAiEL, 143.
Ilnl^l ilr hi Culuilie.
BORDJ SABATH, 237.
BORDJ SEBAOU, 143.
BORDJ TOUM, 304.
BORDJ ZlKRI, 234.
BOTIOUA, 274.
BOUAC, I'ai'c, 114.
Bou-Cedraia, 151.
Bou Chater, 133, 310.
BOU DRIECEN, DJ., 213.
Bou FAIMA, 143.
BOU Ghazoul, 151.
Bou GUELFA, 143.
Bou HADJAR, 255.
BOU HAMMAMA, 213.
Bou HAMDAN, OUED,
240.
Bou Ismail, 137.
Bou Jagar, or Bou-
Djabar, Dj., 229.
Bou kadir, 174.
Bou Kanefis, 270.
Bou KOTAN, OUED,
159-
Bou KSAIBA, 121.
Bou LIFFA BAY, 1 29.
Bou MEDFA, 169.
Bou Medin, 260.
Bou MERZOUG, OUED,
197.
Bou NOUARA, 236.
Bou NOURA, 154.
BOU ROUMI, 133.
BOU-SAADA, 165.
No decent hotel.
Bou SAR, 142.
Bou SELAM, river, 200.
Bou SELLAM, OUED, 161.
Bou SFER, 1S4.
Bou TAFSA, 200.
Br6d6ah.
BOU TLELIS, 254.
A good //(/(.
Bou ZAINA, OUED, 213.
Bou ZAREA, 106.
Bou ZHOUAR, 142.
Bou ZIGZA, III.
BOUDOUAOU, 155.
BOUFARIK, 166.
Hotel Benuit, II. Maza-
yran, t'ercle Civil, fre-
quented by colonists ;
bedrooms.
BOUGL^RONE, iiS.
BOUGIE, 114.
y/'V»7 lie France, excel-
lent ; //. d'Orient et de
la Marine, not recom-
mended.
Direct railway com-
munication with Algiers.
Carriage for Setif
through Chabet, I'JO f.
Means of Communi-
cation by Sea. A. Com-
jKiijii ic Tiimsiitlanlique.
1. From Algiers along
coa.st to Tunis. Leaves
Algiers Frid. noon. Ar.
Hougie Sat. Return, for
Dellys and Algiers, 'IHies.
8 P.M. II. To Marseilles
direct, Frid. 8 p.m. III.
Marseilles, Ajaccio, BGue
anil Philiiipeville to
Bougie, Mond. 4 P.M.
B. Compaynie deXavi-
gatiun Mi.cte. From
Algiers to Bougie and on
to Bone, Tucs. 8 p.m.
I'AOE
roi)u1atiun
• 'M
History
Kiisl)a, Forts
• >'4
• "5
Aiiii)liitlieatre .
. 116
Hoiiiaii reniains .
. 116
BOUGIE TO BENI MAN-
SOUR, 202.
BOUJAT, COL DE. 211.
BOUNDARIES, 12.
BOURKIKA, 133.
BOUTAN, river, 1 70.
BRAO. DJ. SIDI, 162.
BREDEAH, 2vt.
348
INDEX AND DIRECTOUY
Bugeaud.
BUGEAUD, village, 125.
BULLA REGIA, 302.
Bureau Arabe, 65.
BUSTAUU-SlKJOTINCi, 69.
o
Calceus Herculis, 213.
camarata, 279.
Camel, the, 71.
CAMP DES CHENES, 141,
149.
CAMP DE Genie, 306.
CAMP DU MARECHAL,
143-
CAMP DES ZOUAVES, 1 50.
Campbell, the t^et, at
Bougie, 114.
CAP CAXINE, 109.
CAP DE FER, OR RAS EL
HADID, 121.
Cap FILFILA, 121.
Cap DE GARDE, 121.
CAP Negro, 132.
CAP OKAS, 202.
Cap Rosa, 127.
CARAGA, 322.
CARBON, Cape, or el-
METKOUB, .114; light-
house, 116.
Carpets at El Kaliia, 176.
CARTENNA, 246.
CARTHAGE, 29 1.
PAGE
Situation . . . 292
Chapel of St. Louis . 292
Palace of Dido . . 294
Temple of /Eseulapius 294
Forum . . . 294
Harbours . . . 294
Cisterns . . . 295
Basilica . . . 295
Amphitheatre . . 296
Circus, Theatre . . 296
History . . . 296
Martyrs . . . 296
Douar esh-Chott . 297
Castellum Auziense,
164.
Castellum Medianum,
242.
Castellum, Tingi-
tanum, 173.
CASTIGLIONE, 137.
Hotel de Tapis Vert,
excellent. Other hotels
Chott el-Chergui.
principally f'ov summer
bathers.
Cattle, native, 71.
CAVALLO, CAPE, 1 1 6.
CAXINE, Cape, 109.
Cedar Forest at
BATNA, 211 ; at Beni
Salah, 167 ; at Teniet,
141.
Cereals, the, of Algeria,
S3.
Chabet-el-Akhira
GORGE, 200.
CHABET EL-AMEUR, 143.
CHABRO, OUED, 221.
Chachias, maiiufa.'ture
of, 310.
Chanzy, 270.
CHAPEAU DU GEN-
DARME, 153.
Charrier, 276.
Chateau neuf, 106.
CHAWIA tribe, the, 7,
212.
CHAWI patois, 212.
Chegga, 218.
CHELIF, plain of the, 81,
141.
CHELIF, river, 142, 1 71.
CHELLATA, 244.
Chellata, Col de, 245.
CHELLIA, ascent of, 213.
CHEMTOU, 301.
Chenla., 160.
chennoua, dj., 134.
CHERAGAS, loS.
CHERCHEL, 135.
Hotel de Commerce, ex-
cellent.
Carriage to El - Af-
froun, 18f. To Coleali, 2
days, 45 f.
PAGE
History . . .135
Amphitheatre . . 135
Museum . . .136
Military Hospital . 136
Cherchel to Tenes on
horseback, 136.
CHERF, OUED, 240.
Chetma, 217.
CHIFFA, river, 148.
Chott el-Chergui, 277.
Constantiue.
Chott Melghigh, the,
18, 218.
CHOTTS, the, 277.
Chotts, or Sebkas, 77.
CHOULI, river, 266.
LES CiNQ PALMIERS, 246.
Climate, 2.
Clothinc, 5.
CLYPEA, tlie ancient, 317.
Col des Beni Aicha,
155-
Col de Babouch, 307.
Col des juifs, 274.
Col des Oliviers, 185.
Col des pins, 15S.
Col de Sable, 154.
col de tirourda, 1 47.
COLE AH, 137.
JIutel de Paris.
COLLO, 119 ; hay, II 8.
COLONIA AUGUSTI, 246.
Colonisation, 81.
Column found at Peh-
ki!:gaux, 178.
CONDE SMENDOU, 1 85.
Conflagration of for-
EST.S, 89, 126.
CONSTANTINE, 185.
Hotels d' Orient, de
Paris, and da Louvre,
all fairly good.
PAGE
History . . .185
Situation . . . 187
Gates . . .188
Abattoir . . .189
TheSidi Racliid, Hill
of Mansoura . .189
Barracks . . .189
Bridge of El Kantara 189
Warm baths of Sidi
MeQid . . . 191
Tomb of the silver-
smith . . . 192
Koubba of Sidi Mo-
hammed el-Ghorab 192
Tomb of Salah Bey . 194
Streets and squares . 193
Churches and mosques
i93> 194
Palace of Constantiue 194
ILarem of Salah Bey . 194
Kasba hospital . 195
Roman remains . 195
Garden of the Artil-
liiy .... 196
Palais de Justice,
Museum . . . 196
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
349
Constantiue.
PACK
Subterranean Passages 196
Aqueduct, Stone Pyr-
amid to Conite Dain-
rcmont . . . \'/j
Markets, Manufactures 197
Excursions . . 197
Megalitliic Monuments 197
Arcli of . . . 327
Conslantine toAlgiei's,
199.
Conslantine to Batna
and Biskra, 204.
Constantine to Bone hy
rail, 236.
Consuls, British, in Al-
geria, 334 ; in Tunis, 336.
Copi'EU Mines, 121, 235,
246.
CoKAL FisHiNCi, 127.
CORBELIN, Cape, II 4.
CoKK Tree, the, S8.
CORSO, OUED, 155.
ClITTtJN, 154.
D
DAHRA, tlie, 174 ; iinpu-
iatiiiii, 175.
d akla, piton du, 1 50.
Daouda, 137.
Date Palm, the, 84 ; at
el-Aghouat, 1 53 ; Uis-
kra, 216; d-Kantara,
214 ; 'I'uggiirt, 220.
DAYA, 271.
Debba, 177.
DEBROUSSE, M., 1 78.
iMOEIi, HED, 71.
DELLYS, 61, 113.
//.;/-y.s- ,le la Ciiloiiir,
ih- Fnutrr.
Desbrousseville, 274.
DESCIUITION, CENEHAL, (II
Al(;e!Ua, 12.
DHARA, 264.
DiVrslnNS, NATUHAf,, 13.
DjamAat-esSaharidj,
146.
DJEBEL FILFILA, 121.
Djebel Garca, 235.
Djebel Hamimat, "235.
Djebel Rights, 235.
Duzerville.
DJEBEL TEMOULGA, 1 72.
DJEDAR (tonilis), 251.
djedeida, 304.
Djelfa, 152.
EL-DJEM, 320 ; liistory,
320 ; amiiliitheatre, 321.
DJEMAA, tlie, 15.
DJEMAA, OUED, 140,
163, 202.
DJENAN EL-MESKINE,
269.
DJER, OUED, 1 68.
DJERBA, 326.
British Cons. Agent,
M. Josujih Parioiiti.
No h;td.
EL-DJERDA, promontory,
119.
LA DJIDIOUIA, or ST.
AlME, 175.
LA DJIDIOUIA, OUED,
175-
DJIDJELLY, 116.
DJILALI BEN AMER,
L'druvunseral, 250.
DJINET, Cape, 196.
DJURDJURA, DJ., 145 ;
ascent of, 245.
IJ0LMEN.S, 199; «ee Mega-
litliic.
DOUAR ECH-CHOTT, 297.
DOUARS, 9.
DOWAR EL - HADJ BEL
KASSEM BEN ZORARI,
308.
Dra-benKedda, 143.
DRA-EL-MIZAN, 143,
157- _
lli'il'l dc la Jeinii
France, fairly good.
DREA, 221.
DUBLINEAU, 275.
DUPERRE, 171.
DUVIVIER, 241.
.Junction for Tunis.
Village 2i kil. from
railway station. Of tlic
two hotels that of Marius
Lavagne is the least bad.
DUZERVILLE, 242.
El Kef.
E
Eauthqcakes, 58, 80,
117, 168.
Eddous. Oued, 158.
EDOUGH, DJ., 121 ; a.scent,
124.
EGHRIS, I'lain, 265, 275.
EL-AFFROUN, 168.
Diligences to Marengo
ami Clierclicl meet every
train from Algiers.
Hotel de la. Oare, at
station ; //. du petit frire,
in village ; no sleeping
accommoilatioii.
EL-AGHOUAT, 153.
ll'drl da Sad.
Diligences from Medea
in -1 days, SO f.
Carriage, 400 or 500
f., and to the Oases of
the Beui Mzab.
EL-ARBA, 163.^
Ilnhi des Etrangers,
fairly good.
El-Ensor, 279.
El-Esnam, 158,
ElEubbad, 260.
EL GUERRAH, 163.
Junction for Biskra.
No hoUl. A wretched
buffet.
EL-KANTARA, 213,327.
//-;/./ iforif-nt.
EL-KANTARA, bridge of,
214.
EL - KANTARA, 213 ;
Oasis, 214.
EL - KANTARA, OUED,
214.
EL-KEF, 308.
The accommodation for
European travellers is of
the roughest kind. Lodg-
ings can be hail at several
houses dignilied as hOtels.
mtd de Kef; U. de
France; II. Messageries
(i'liiraud. All bad.
350
INDKX ANI> DIKI-X'TORY
El Kef.
Service of omnibuses
with Souk el-Arbiia.
EMIC!UATI()N to AUiKIUA,
82.
ENFIDA, till', 31S.
Er-Rahel, 254.
esh-sham, dj.,i4'-
ElU'Al.Yl'TUS, till', S9.
EULMA, tribe, 162.
ExMouTH, Lord, at
Algiers, 51, 52.
F
Faid, Oued, 200.
Falconry, 69.
Famine in Algeria, 58.
Fedala, oued, 213.
FEDJ-EL-MEKTA, forest,
297.
Fedj-el-Meridj, 307.
Feidjet el-,Ghoussa,
228.
Fekan, oued, 265.
Females, position of, 10.
FEMME SAUVAGE, valley,
107.
Fer, Cap de, 121.
Fer,3 les Fortes de,
159-
Fergoug, Oued, 178.
Ferkats, 9.
FERMATOU, village, 200.
LA FERME, 246.
FERNANA, 307.
FESDIS, 206.
FEZARA, lake, 1 26.
Figs, 83.
FlLFELA, Cape, 121.
FILIAH, oasis, 2 1 5.
FIRIS, plain, 213.
Fish, 72 ; ejected by
Ai-tesian Wells, 73.
Flora, the, of Algeria,
86.
Fodda, Oued, 172.
FONDUK, III.
EL-FONDUK, 310.
FONTAINE DES GA-
ZELLES, 214.
FONTAINE DU GENIE, 1 36,
FONTAINE DES PRINCES,
125.
Ghardimaou.
Food, national, 10.
Forests, 87.
FORT DE L'EAU, III.
FORT DE L'EMPEREUR,
104.
FORT GENOIS, 1 24.
FORT-NATIONAL, 145-
llnh'l I'es Touridi'S,
poor.
Excursions Irom, 140.
FORTASSA, 250.
])Hi(jence to Mascara,
6 hrs. ■ 4. 50 f.
Frais Vallon. 105.
Franchetti, 276.
FRARAH, 241.
Frechih, Oued, 248.
FRENDA, 254.
Hotel Maeslmcci, poor.
LES Frenes, or EL-
Bethom. 163.
FROHA, 276.
Fruits, 83.
G
GABES, 325.
British Cons. Agent,
F. Calleja.
No hotel.
GADDECHA, oasis, 215.
GALITA, island, 1 32.
GAMRHA, 219.
GARCA, DJ., 235.
GARDE, CAP DE, 121.
Gazelle hunting, 69.
GELAA, 243.
Geldaman Hills, 204.
Geology, 75.
Geryville, 278.
GHABAL, 179.
GHADIRS, 278.
GHAR EL-DJAMAA, 238.
GEAR EL-MELAH, lake,
133-
Gharba, 323.
Gharat djebel Ish-
KUL, lake, 312.
GHARDAIA, 154.
GHARDIMAOU, 300.
Exaiuiuatiou of luggage
at custom-house,
Bufet.
Goletta.
Ghazal, Dj., 216.
Gheir, oued, 203. 2 1 8.
GHORFA DES OULAD
MIRIAM, 164.
LA GLAClilRE. farm, 1 67.
GOUSSnVIET, OUED, 200.
GOLETTA (Port of
Tunis), 286.
Brit. Vice - Consul,
M. .Joseph Cubisol.
No Hotels. Numerous
Cafes.
RoAlivays, see Tunis.
Boat hire for landing,
2h piastres (f. 1..'.0).
Means of Communi-
cation : A. Camp. Gen.
Tra.nsoAlantiqii.e. I.
From Marseilles, direct,
Moud. Wed. aud Frid.
4 P.M. Return same
days and hour. II. To
Susa, and along coast of
Tunis, to Tripoli and
Malta, Thurs. 5 r.M.
Return from I^Ialta Tues.
5 I'.M. III. For Bizerta,
La Calle, Bone, Philippe-
ville, Algiers, and Port
Vendres, Sat. noon. IV.
Bone, Philippeville, aud
so to Algiers, Sat. 5 P.M.
V. For Malta, Mond.
10 A.M. Retirrn Thurs.
1 P.M.
B. Navig. Gen. Itali-
ana. I. To Cagliari,
Leghorn, and Genoa,
Wed. 1 P.M. Return
Thurs. 9 P.M. II. To
Pautellaria, Marsala,
Favignana, Trapani, and
Palermo, Frid. 8 P.Jr.
Return, Tues. 10 p.m.
III. Along the coast of
Tunis to Tripoli aud
Malta, Wed. 5.30 P.M.
Return, Wed. 10 A.M.
C. Transp. Marit. a
Vai)eur. Departure from
Marseilles, direct. Wed.
INDKX AND DFRECTORY
351
Goletta.
5 P.M. ; from Goletta rid
Bone, Suntl. uoon. I'us-
sage, 60 f.
Goletta to the Island
of ]>jerba Inj sea, 317-
GOURAIA, 116.
GOURAYA, 137.
Government, 65.
EL-GREIZ, 265.
Grotte des Veadx
MARINS, I S3.
GROUS, hot siivin.qs, 163.
Gue de Constantine,
140, 166.
Guebar bou Aoun, 242.
GUELMA, 240.
ili'itrl A Uriel or
(V Orient, tolerably good ;
Grand Hotel, Rue St.
Loui.s ; H. de V Univers,
Rue de Bone, nearest to
the railway station, which
is about 300 metres from
the town.
Buffet at station.
GUELTEL-KILAB, 264.
GUELT-ES-STEL. 1 5 1.
GUERAH EL-HOUT, lake,
129, 306.
GUERAH-EL-MELAH, 1 29.
GUERAH - EL - OUBERA,
lake, 129.
GUERRARA, 154.
EL-GUETNA, 275.
GUYOTVILLE, 106, lOS.
H
L'HABRA, bana-e of, 1 78.
L'HABRA, OUED, 274.
EL-HACHEM, OUED, 134.
Haudau, Sheikh el, 16,
61.
el-hadjar. 1 85.
Hadjar-el-Melah, 152.
HADJAR ROUM. old
I Ionian i-.nii]), 266.
el-hadjeb, 1 68.
Hadjeb el-Aioun, 331.
HAKOUM, OUED, 150.
el hamelia, 161.
Hamimat, dj., 235.
el-Hamma, 1S5.
Haracta.
EL-HAMMAM, 150, 159 ;
hot siiriii.i,'s. 159.
HammamBerda. 241.
HAMMAM BOU HADJAR,
255.
HAMMAM BOU HANEFIA,
275-
HAMMAM ELENF, 1 33,
298.
HAMMAM GERGOUR, 200.
HAMMAM GROUS, 1 63.
HAMMAM KSANNA, 1 64.
HAMMAM MELOUAN,
80, 140.
Etablissement Ther-
mal. Poor accommoda-
tion ; opens 1st May.
Carriage roacl from
Rovigo.
HAMMAM MESKOU-
TIN, 80, 238.
i/'Vt^ comfortable. En-
gage rooms by letter to
M. Rouyer, Guelma. Cost
about 12 f. a day.
Post Office on the
establishment.
HAMMAM R'IRHA, 80,
169.
Thermal Baths : Es-
talilishmentof M. Alfonse
Aries- Dufour. Good,
terms moderate.
A 7)(////('c" convey an ee
meets trains at Bou
Medfa. 2 f. each person.
(For private carriage
15 f. ; write beforehand.)
Mules and donkeys can
be hired at the hotel.
HAMMAM SALAHIN, 2 1 6.
HAMMAM SIDI ABDELL
255-
HAMMAM SIDI ALI BEN-
YOUB, 270.
HAMMAMET, 318.
Brit. Cons. Agent, A.
C'ar,-liia.
HAOUCH, BOU-KAN-
DOURA, 163.
Haracta, tribe, 235.
Isserrille.
HARRACH, rivur, 140.
HAUSSONVILLERS, 143.
HENCHIR HAMMAM DAR-
RADJL 302.
Henna YA, 281.
Herbillon, 121.
HIERON, 332.
IIk.h Plateaux, the, 13,
16.
L'HILLIL, 176.
HIPPODROME, 163.
HIPPONE, 1 23 ; St.
Augustine at, 123.
Hlstohic'al Notice ok
Algeria, 20-65.
HONAI, 28 1.
Horses, 71.
h6tel Gessin, III.
Hotel des Voyageurs,
or CAMP DES CHENES,
149.
Hutei.s, 6.
HOUENET, OUED, 265.
HOUMT-ES-SOUK, 326.
11 U LI A, OR ESI'ARTO
(iPxAss, 85 ; sre Alka.
HUSSEIN DEY, 155, 166.
Hydra, ruins of, 228.
llYDUOCiRAPHICAL SYS-
TE.M, 14.
ICHERRIDHEN, 1 46.
ICOSIUM, 93.
IGHIL ALI, 244.
Ighzer-Amokran. 203.
igilgilis. 117.
illil, oued. 176.
IMESSEBELEN, the, 8.
INKERMANN, I 74.
INSURRECTION of 187 1,
59. 62.
IRIL, 158.
Irish l.MMi(iit,vNT.s, 242.
Iron mines, of Aiu-
iMokra, 126 ; of Soumali,
166 ; Beni Saf, 279.
ISSER, river, 143, 150,
156, 255, 266 ; 1,'orge,
156.
LES ISSERS, 143.
ISSERVILLE. 14 V
lintel de I'Etoile.
352
INDEX AND DIUIX'TOHY
Jardin d'Essai.
Jackson, Dr., on tlic
climate of Alj:;ier.s, 3.
Jardin d'Essai, 107.
Jemmapes, 127.
Jewellkky, Kiibylc, 146.
Jews, i i.
JOL, 135 ; we Cherdiol.
Julia C^SAREA, 135.
K
Kabyle government, 15.
Kabyle language, 12.
Kabyle village de-
scribed, 144.
KABYLIA, 7.
KABYLIA OF DJDRD-
JURA, excursion througli,
242.
KAIDHASSEN.bordj, 20I.
KAID MANSOUR, bordj,
200.
Kaids, 8.
EL KALAA, 1 76.
KALAA (Gelaa), 243.
KALAAT ES-SANAN,
229.
KALAMA, 240.
kalia, oued, 259.
kamart, 297.
Kameta, 133.
EL KANTOUR, DJ., 185.
KAODA, 175.
KAPOUDIAH, 323.
KARGUENTAH (Oi:an),
179.
KASR BAGHAI, ruins of,
235-
KASR BINT-ES-SULTAN,
172.
KASR EL-AHMER, 230.
KASR el-Kef, 30S.
KASR EL-MENARA, 31S.
KASR TEMOUCHENT,
162.
Kbour- EL Abbas, 214.
el-Kebir, Oued, uS,
132, 167.
KEF ; see El-Kef.
Kef-el- Akhdar, 21S.
Kulb, Dj.
Kef er-Rakhm, 230.
Kef KERICHEFA, tunnel,
299.
Kef Sidi Omar Peak,
172.
Kef oum-et-Teboul,
130, 306.
KELEBIA, 317.
Brit. Cons. Agent, F.
C'oiiversano.
No hotel.
Kerkena Islands, 323.
Kerma, Oued, 306.
Kerouan, 328.
Kcfouaii to iSbciila,
331-
KEROUIA, forest, 178.
Khamis, Oued, hi.
Khamisa, 232.
PAGE
Ruins of ancient city. 232
Tiiumplial Arcli,
Basilica . . . 232
Theatre . . . 232
Tombs . . . 233
Arab legend of . . 233
EL Khamza, Oued, 185.
Kharata, 200.
Kharouba,"Dj., 213.
EL-KHENEG, 198 ; dol-
mens, 199.
KHOMAIR, tribe, tlie,
305.
Khooshada, 228.
KIRBA, 246.
EL-KISSA, ruins, 228.
KLEBER MARBLE
QUARRIES, 273.
KOTAN, Oued bou, i 59.
KOUBBA, village of, 107 ;
ecclesiastical college at,
107.
KoubbaVieux, 107, 140.
KOUKOU, 147.
koulouglis, ii.
Kralfallah, 277.
el-Kreider, 277.
Kristel, 184.
Le Kroub, 163.
EL KSEUR, 203.
ksour-es-sif, 322.
kubr-er-roumla, 1 38.
Kulb, Dj., 230.
Les Lacs.
LA CALLE, 127.
J/o/d <r Orient. '
Diligence daily to and
IroMi Hone. Carriage
road to Aln-Draliam anri
on to the Tunisian rail-
way.
PACE
Ci>ral Fishery . .127
History . . . 127
LA CHIFFA, 148, 168.
Diligence for Medeali.
Vofe (le hi Oare. Good
meals may Ije had.
La CHIFFA, gorge, 148.
LA CHIFFA, river, 148.
LA MORICIERE, 266.
H6tel lie V Univers,
Arab Market on Mon-
day.
Railway from Tabia
completed so far ; the
travellers must go on to
Tlemgen by diligence.
Lady Khadidja, shrine
of the, 158.
Lalla fatima, 147.
LALLA MARNIA, 267.
Hotel de France, ex-
cellent.
LALLA OuDA, Oued,
174.
LAMBESSA, 206.
LAMIDA, 164.
Land tenure, 9.
Landon's, M., garden,
215.
Languages, native, 12.
LAURIER'S ROSES, stat. ,
269.
Lavarande, 171.
LE KROUB, 163.
Hotel de France, toler-
al)le.
LELLA SETTA, mountain,
256.
LES LACS, 205.
Lion Hunting, 68.
IXDES AND DIRECTORY
353
Locusts.
Locusts, 58, 74.
LoDr,iX(;s, 5.
LODI, 150.
LOLLIUS, tomlj of, 198.
London to Algeiua, i.
See p. 342.
LOURMEL, 254.
LULLY RAYMOND, I 1 4.
M
EL-MA ADER, 2o6 : OUED,
206.
MAADTHER, DJ., 230.
MAALIKAIN, luouutaiiis,
•57-
LA MACTA, 274.
MADID, 165.
MAFRAG, river, 127.
MACtARAN, 316.
MAGENTA, 271.
MAGHAIER, 218.
MAGOUN, OUED, 274.
MAHADIA, 322.
Brit. Cons. Agent, ( '.
Viohuite.
No Iiold.
MAHADJIBA, ruins, 19S.
MAHMEL, DJ., 213.
MAILLOT, 158.
\ fairly t,'Ood Inn.
MAISON BLANCHE, LA,
III, 155-
MAISON CANTONliRE,
247, 267.
MAISON Carr6e, la,
agricultural estalilish-
iiicut at, 1 10, 166.
MAKHEIREGA, DJ., 250.
MALAH, OUED, 254.
EL MANAA, 213.
MANOUBA, 304.
MANSOURA, 261.
MANSOURA, 159.
MANSOURA, liill, 193.
MANSOURIA, in-oiiioiitory
ot, 1 16.
EL-MAOUNA, 241.
M.\l', NEW, 113.
Mauabouts, the, 15.
Marble Quaiuues, 121,
273, 301.
\_Ai(jeriu^
Medeah.
LA MARE D'EAU, 179.
MAREGH, OUED, 159.
MARENGO, 134.
//.//./ (I' Orient, poor;
HUii MareuffO, rather
better.
MARKOUNA, ruins of,
208.
MARMOR NUMIDICUM,
273-
MARSA, 297.
MASCARA, ^ro.
Grand Hotel, fairly
good ; //. du Louvre.
Braneli railway to main
lino.
Diligence to Gran by
night, 12hr.s., 12 f. To
Freu.la, 13 hrs., 10 f.
To Sidi Bel Abbes (see
Rte. 24).
MASCULA, the aneient,
213, 235.
MASSIN, caravanserai,
141.
MASSIN, OUED, 141.
EL MATEN, 203.
MATIFOU, Cape, 1 1 2.
MAURITANIA, 21 ; deri-
vation of the word, 21.
.Mahsole' m, Roman, 204.
MAZAFRAN, river, 137.
MAZAGRAN, 249.
MAZALA, DJ., 236.
MAZOUKA, lake, 312.
Mazouna, 175.
MDAOUROUCH, 221, 230.
Mechera-sfa, 250.
Mecheriah, 278.
MECHTA EL-ARBI, 1 62.
MEQID, DJ., 191.
MEDABIAH, the, 1 54.
MEDEAH, 149.
Hotel d' Orient ; llOtd
/joiii.i.
Miile.s can be hired.
A rab Marlcet on Tiies-
.lay.
MEDEAH, aiiueduet, 149.
£l-Metkoub.
MEDLiE, or AD MEDIAS
149.
MEDJANA PLAIN, 160.
MEDJERDA, OUED, 233,
302, 310.
MEDJEZ-AMAR, 240.
MEDJEZ-EL-BAB, 304.
MEDJEZ-SFA, 299.
MEDRASSEN, niouuiueut,
205.
Meualithic remains, 89,
109, 142, 152, 165, 197,
208, 216, 234, 236, 239,
250.
MEHARI (the camel), 71.
Mekalia, 249.
Mekalis, 278.
MEKERRA, river, 269.
MEKLA, 144, 146.
MELAB-EL-KORAN, 163.
MELAGOU, plain, 213.
EL MELAH. OUED, 30I.
MELGHIGH, CHOTT, 218.
MELIKA, 154.
MELLEGUE, OUED, 221,
230, 303, 308.
MeloUAN, hot springs,
140.
MELRIR, OUED, 265.
MENERVILLE, 155.
llnld nianrh'trd.
Menzel, 325.
Menzel DJEMIL, 311.
Menzel Temuvi, 318.
Mercier Lacombe, 265.
Merdja, 174.*"
EL MERIDJ, 229.
Meroman, 21S.
MERSEL-KEBIR, I S3.
MERSA ed-Debban, 109.
MERSA ED-DEJAJ, 155.
Mersa el-Kebir, 181.
mersa toumlilin, i 1 3.
MESKLANA, 221.
MESKOUTIN, hot springs,
238.
MESLOUG, 160.
elMesran, 151.
Mesrata, 177.
el messen, 1 58.
METIDJA, iilain, 94, 140,
166.
el-Metkodb, 114. vi,'..
2 A
354
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
Metlili.
Metlili, 153.
Metlili, Dj.. 213.
Meurad, Oued, 134.
MezaBerzig, 219.
MILIANAH, 170.
Hotel de Commerce,
good.
Reached by omnibus
eitliei' from Adalia or
Ailreville, stations on
railway.
PACE
History . . .170
Barracks, i\IiUtary
Hospital . -171
Cliurcli, Kouljba of
Sidi Moh-ben-Yussef 171
Environs . . .171
Military force, 66.
MILLESEVIO, 241.
MINA, river, 176, 249.
MINERALOGY, 79.
Mines, mercury, 213 ;
calaniiue, 267 ; see Iron.
MIRA, 145.
MiRABBAU, 143.
MISSERGHINE, 254.
A fairly good inn.
MODZBAH-SFID, 277.
MOGHRAR FOUKANI,
278.
MOGHRAR TAHTANI,
278.
Mohammed ed-Dibbah,
koubba of, 155.
MOHAMMEDIA, ruined
]ialace, 313.
MOKRANI, rebellion of,
61.
MOKTA EL-HADID, iron-
works, 126.
MOKTA EL- OUST, 153.
MONASTIR, 322.
Brit. Cons. Agent, F.
Portelli.
No hotel.
MONDOVI, 242.
Monkeys, 70.
MONTAGNE GRISE, 273.
MONTAGNE ROUGE, 24S.
MONTAGNE DE SEL, 2 1 4.
MONTENOTTE, 246.
Nemoiirs.
Moors, to.
MORSOTT, 221.
MOSTAGANEM, 247.
Jlotel (le France, fairly
good. II. ties Mesmf/eries.
Diligences: To L'Hil-
lil 3 times a day, 4 lirs.,
4 f. To Perregaux, 4
hrs., 3 f. To Oran, 10
hrs., 8.15 f. To Cas-
saigiie, 7 lirs., 3 f.
MOULA., OUED, 267.
MOULAI ISMAIL, forest,
179.
Mountains, height of,
14.
MOUZALA., DJ., 149.
MOUZAIA LES MINES,
150.
mouzaiaville, 1 68.
Mtalsa, 277.
mulai abd-el-kader,
villa,i:,'e, 265.
MUSTAFA INFERIEUR,
108.
MUSTAFA SUP^RI-
EUR. For Hotels see
Algiers, 105.
English Club near the
Governor's palace.
M'ZAB COUNTRY, 1 54.
MZA SEDIRA, 208.
MZITA, 159.
MZOURI SALT LAKE,
205.
N
NAAMA, 278.
NADOR, DJ., 149, 255.
LE NADOR, zinc mines,
241.
NAZREG, 276.
Native troops, 66.
NEBEUL, 318.
NEBEUR, 308.
Nedroma, 267.
NEGRIER, 255.
NEGRO, Cape, 132.
NEMOURS, 282.
JJotel de France, fairly
good.
Gran.
NOE, Cape, 281
NOIR, Cajie, 114.
NOTRE Dame d'Af-
RIQUE, 1 10 ; iKJCuliar
ceremony after vespers,
1 10 ; silver statue of the
arcliangel Michael, 1 10.
NO VI, 136.
NUMIDLA, 21
NUMIIJIAN MARBLE QUAR-
RIES, 273.
o
Oak TREE, THE, 88.
Okas, Cai)e, 202.
Olive tree, the, 88.
OmaR-DRA-EL - MIZAN,
157-
Omm-el-Ashera, 213.
Omm-el-Boaghi, 234.
Onyx, Algeiiian, 255.
OPPIDUM NOVUM, 171.
OPPiDUM Tnvaci, 255.
Oran, 179.
PAGE
Population . .179
History . . . 179
Situation, Harbours,
Trade . . .181
Cburelies, Mosques . 181
Tlieatre, Museum . 182
Citadtl, Forts . . 182
Suliterranean Galleries 183
Hospitals, Negro Quar-
ter . . . .183
Environs . . . 1S3
Hotels : Continental,
the best in the colony. II.
de la Pai.c. H. de V Uni-
vers.
Restaurant : Cafe de
Letang.
British Vice -Consul :
A. Boozo.
French Baths : Boule-
vard Oudein t.
Moorish Baths : Eue
de la Mosipiee.
Carriages have all
their scale of charges.
Boats : The charge
for landing is 50 c. for
each passenger, and 40 c.
for each package.
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
355
Oran.
Means of Commiini-
cationbySea: A. Vi/m-
vaijnie General Trons-
allantique (see Algiers).
From Oran to Tangier^,
viA Nemours, Malaga, and
Gibraltar, Frid. 8 P.M.
B. Comp. Xav. Mixtc
(Touache). For Cette
and Marseilles, Wed. 8
A.M.
C. Comp. CaiUol II et.
St. Pierre, Marseilles,
Wed. 8 A.M.
D. Compagnie Sali-
nas. For Cartbagena
and Alicante, Tues. 4
P.M. For Alicante, direct,
Frid. 4 p.m. For Almeria,
Tues. 4 p.m.
E. Compagnie Acuiia.
For Almeria, Tues. 4 p.m.
Oran to Ben i Saf, Xr
7noi(rs, and the Frontier
of Morocco, 279.
Oran to Tlem^-en, 254.
Oran, a tour through,
265.
Ol!.VN(iKS, 83.
ORLEANSVILLE, 172.
//At,/, /r Fraiire, i;oo<\.
Markets : Saturday
and Sunday.
Omnibus to T^nis
ilaily, .')J, lirs., 6 f.
Carriage to Ouaren-
senis, 20 f. per diem.
Oni'HANA(iKs, 106.
OSTIUCHKS, 72.
OUACHE, DJ. (Wahash),
197.
OUARANSENIS, peak, 1 7 2.
OUARCE, 232.
OUARGLA, 59.
OUDENA, ruins of, 314.
OUED ALLALA, 246.
OUED AMIMIN, 127.
OUED AMISEUR, 203.
OUED ATMENIA, 162.
OUED BARBATA, 267.
OUED Besses, 242.
OUED BOU DJEMAA, 242.
OUED BOUKTENA, 1 50.
Oulad Rahmoun.
OUED CHAHAM, 299.
OUED CHOUK, 221.
oued corso, 155.
oued djer, 168.
Ouedel-Hammam, 159.
OUED EL-KHEIR, 249.
OUEDFODDA, 172.
//ot'-t ([>' I' I dare, poor.
Carriage may be had
for Barrage. 2 hrs., 10 f.
OUED FRARAH, 241.
OUEDGHEIR, plain, 2l8.
OUED HAKOUM, 150.
OUED HAMIMIM, 163.
OUED IMBERT, 269.
OUED KHAMIS, III.
OUED KHELLONG, 249.
OUED MALAH, 177.
OUED MELAH, 152, 325.
OUED MELIZ, 301.
OUED MESSELMOUN,
136.
OUED MESSIDA, 306.
OUED MOUGRAS, 30O.
OUEDRIOU, 174.
Station for Iiikerman.
Ildtel (I'In/cennan,
fairly good.
Diligences daily to
Ammi ^lousa (N. ), and
RL'naiilt.iii tlie I)ahra(S.)
OUED ROUINA, 171.
OUED SEDEUR, 152.
OUED Sly, 174.
OUED SMAR, 155.
OUED TAGA, 208, 213.
OUED TAGHIA, 172.
OUED ZEBOUDJ, 170.
OUED ZENATI, 237.
A service of diligences
daily to Am-Beida.
OUED ZERGAA, 304.
OUENZA, DJ., 221.
L'OUGASSE, 179.
OUJBA, 267.
OULAD ABD-EN-NOUR,
tribe, 162.
OULAD ALI, 269.
OULAD BOU-ALI, 15S.
OULAD MIZIAN, 174.
OULAD OU KASAI, 144.
OULAD RAHMOUN, 1 63.
Philippe ville.
Oulad riab, cave.s,
248 ; tragedy in, 248,
249.
Oulad Sead, 200.
OULAD SIDI CHEIKH,
27S.
Oulad Sidiel-Akhdar,
174.
OUMACH. oasis, 2 1 7.
EL-OUIRICIA, 200.
EL-OURIT, FALLS OF, or
the Saf-Saf, 263.
OURLANA, 219.
EL OUTAIA, 214.
PAL.ffiSTRO, 156.
I/i'iffi lie Ciniimerce.
Tcrri1)le tragedy at,
156.
PALMIERS, LES CiNQ,
246.
PALMIERS, LES TROIS,
246.
Panther HtrsTiNO, 68.
rAHTiurxiE siinoTiNf!, 70.
PERREGAUX, 178.
Junction for Saida and
Arzeu.
Hotel (les Colonies,
tolerably good.
Arab Market on
Thursday.
PELISSIER, 24S.
Petit, 241.
Philippe VILLE, 119.
PAOE
119
119
Harbour
(^ity .
Archaeological Treas
urt'S
.\neii'!it T?atlis .
British Vice Consul,
M. Henri 'I'essier.
Hotels : //. d' Orient,
in the Square. //. Ci'16-
aiid, in the street behind
it, very good.
Means of Communi-
cation : Ci'iiijK Tnni.t-
alliinti'/iie. 1. From
Marseilles, direct, Mond.
356
INDEX AND DIUECTORY
Philippeville.
and Frid. 4 p.m. Return
from Philiiipevillc, Suiid.
6f.M. II. Marseilles, r//l
Ajaccio and Bone, Wed.
4 P.M. III. Philii.pe-
ville to Djedjelli, 15oiigie
and Marseilles, Tliiirs.
11 P.M. IV. To Bone,
Goletta, and Marseilles,
Sund. 10 P.M. V. To
Bone, Ajaccio, and Mar-
seilles, Frid. 11 P.M.
Philippeville to Con-
stantine by rail, 1 84.
Pine, thk Aleppo, 88.
PITON, D'AKBOU, 204.
Plauue, the, 47, 49.
Plateaux, the High, 13,
16, 277.
POINTE PESCADE, or
MERSA - ED - DEBBAN,
109.
POLLASTRO, island, 132.
POMARIA, 256.
PONT DE CHELIF, 24S.
PONT D'ISSER, 255.
PONTEBA, 172.
Population and Races,
6.
port-gueydon, ii4.
port aux poules, 274
Porte, la Petite, 159.
PORTES DE FER, LES,
159-
PORTO FARINA, lake,
133-
PORTUS MAGNUS, 274.
Pottery, Kabyle, 146. .
Pr^eciuus, tomb of, 192.
Pre - HISTORIC monu-
ments ; see Megalithic.
Punic War, first, 21 ;
second, 22 ; third, 24.
R
RADES, 298.
Railways, 6.
Rainfall, table of, 4.
RAMPE, AUBERGE DE LA,
141.
RANDON, 242.
RAPIDI, 164.
Rovigo.
Ras eou-Fhal, 127.
Ras Dimas, 322.
RAS EL HADID, 121.
RAS EL KEBIR, 118.
RAS EL-MA, 162, 271.
Ras er Rajel, 132.
RAS EZ ZEBIB, 133.
RAS SIDI ALI EL-MEKHI,
'33-
RAS TAKOUCH, 121.
LA RASSAUTA, III.
Rat a thompe, tlie, 152.
Rats, Geuboa, 218.
LA REGHAIA, 155.
RELIZANE, 176.
Junction, for line from
Mostaganem to Tiaret.
Btiffet. llCtel de la
Paix, indifferent.
REMCm, 281.
RENAULT, 174.
Rents, 6.
Residence, choice of, 5.
Ressas, Dj., 133.
LA Reunion, 203.
RIGHIS, Dj. , copjier mines,
235-
Rio Salado, 254.
R'IRHA (Righa), hot
springs, 80, 1 69.
Rivers, 14, 18.
ROBERTVILLE, 184.
ROCHER, LE, 269.
ROCHER DE SEL, LE, 152.
ROCHER DES CHIENS,
153-
ROKNIA, 239.
RoJiAN bath, remains of,
162.
Roman ruins, 90.
Roman stat., ruins of,
235-
ROMRI, 177.
ROSA, Cap, 127.
ROUGA, ruins of, 322.
ROUIBA, 155.
ROUINA, OUED, 171.
ROUMADIA, mountain,
119.
ROUMMEL, OUED. 191.
ROUTES, I, 113.
ROUX, Cape, 130.
ROVIGO, 140.
Sainte Barbe de Tlelat.
RUISSEAU, 107.
RUISSEAU, DES DEUX
FONTS, 149.
RUISSEAU DES SINGES,
148.
RUSAZUS, 114.
RUSCURIUM, 114.
RUSGUNIA, ruins of, ill.
RUSUEESER, 114.
s
Saada, 218.
es-Sabala, 310.
sable, col de, 1 54.
SAF-SAF, river, 255, 268.
SAF-SAF, stat., 1 84.
SAHARA, upper and lower,
17-20.
SAHEL, tlie, 93.
ES-SAHEL, OUED, 1 58,
202, 244.
Said A, 276.
SAlDA, OUED, valley,
276.
Saint Aimi^;, 175.
SAINT Andre, 184.
SAINT Arnaud, 162.
Saint Augustin, at
Hipiione, 123 ; at Me-
daura, 231 ; birthplace,
300.
SAINT Charles, 184,
239-
Saint Cyprien des
Attafs, 171.
SAINT DENYS DU SIG,
178.
SAINT DONAT, 162.
SAINT EUGENE, I ID.
SAINT GEROME, 184.
Saint Geronimo, mar-
tyrdom of, 98 ; discovery
of his skeleton, 99.
Saint JOSEPH, 241.
SAINT Leu, 274.
Saint peerre, 265.
SAINTE BARBE DE
TLELAT, 179.
Junction for Sidi-bel-
Abbes, Tlemoen, Ras-el-
Ma.
INDEX AND DIRFX'TORY
357
Sainte Barbe de Tlelat.
Hotel de la Gave, toler-
able.
Sainte Barbe de Tlelat
to BflAhhes and Tlem(;cn,
268.
SAINTE CLOTUDE, 1 84.
SAINTE LEONIE, 274.
SAKAMODI, 163.
Salah Bey, oasis, 192.
SALAHIN, hot siirings, 2X6
SALEKTA, 323.
LES SALDIES, 1 76.
Sali.CST, 191.
Salt Mountain, 214.
SALTO DEL CAVALLO,
I S3.
SANEDJA, river, 121.
SARNA, OUED, 269.
SBEITLA. 332.
SBEITLA, OOED, 332.
BCKIFTUKE ILLUSTRATED
BY Moorish architect-
ure, 95.
Season for travellini;,
5-
Sebaa Rous, tiie, 142,
151.
SEBAKH, zone, 162.
SEBAOU BORDJ, 143.
SEBAOU. river, 143.
SEBDOU, 264.
SEBKAS, 77.
Sebkha, 158.
SEBECHA, ot Oraii, 254.
SEBKHA ZAHREZ, salt
lakes, 151.
SEBT BENI YAHIA, 147.
Sebt, Oued, 137.
SELIL, 218.
SENAN. OUED, 255.
Sen-el -LEBB A, Dj., 152.
LA SENIA, 179, 183.
SlXiLKSTHATION OK LAND,
62. 82.
SERIANA, 215.
Sersou, 17, 142.
SETIF, 160. j.^^,^,
CitiKlel . . . ir,i
Cliiiiato, Positiiin . i6i
Market . . . i6i
Iltttel de France. II.
d' Orient ; ucitlier as good
as might be expected.
Sidi Ehalid.
Diligence and carriages
for Bougie, cid the Chaliet
el-Akhira.
SEYBODSE, river, 240.
SFAX, 324.
Brit. Vice - Consul,
Josejih Leoiiardi, Ksq.
llCiltl de Fmmx ; II.
Transatlantique, both
jioor.
SHEBBA, OUED, 1 59.
Sheei>, 71.
Si MOH. BIN NASIR, toiiil>,
2C2.
Si SLIMAN, OUED, 174.
Si SLISSEN, 271.
Sicca VENERLA, the an-
cient, 308.
SIDI ABD-EL-KADER,
El-Djilani, koubba of,
168.
SIDI ABD-EL-KADER,
tomb of, 246.
SIDI A3DULLA, 267.
SIDI AlCH, 203.
SIDI AISSA, 164.
SIDI, AKKACH. koubba
of, 121.
SIDI ALI BEN-YOUB,
village, 270 ; hot .spriugs,
270.
SIDI BADER, 300.
SIDI BEL Abbes, stat.,
269.
SIDI BEL Abbes, town,
269.
Sidi Eou Jubar, 308.
SIDI BOU MEDIN, tomb,
2(3o.
Sidi Bou-Saeed, 297.
Sidi BOU ZAIN, salt lake,
176.
Sidi Brahim, stat., 159.
221, 269.
Smi Brao, 162.
Sidi Embarek, tomb of,
'37-
Sidi Feruch. or Fur-
RUDJA, 109.
Sidi HAMANA, Zaouia
oi; 163.
Sidi el Hemessi, 300.
Sidi Khalid, 270.
Souk Ahras.
Sidi Khalifa, 277.
Sroi-KHELTAB, 249.
Sidi Lahsen, 270.
sidi mammar ben-
MOKHALA, tomb, 246.
SlDI MAKLOUF, 153.
Sidi MAKLOUF, koubba
of. 153.
SIDI MEgiD, 191.
SIDI MERZOUG. 30S.
SIDI MESKINE, 3112.
Sidi Moh. ben Aouda,
249.
SIDI MOH. EL-GHORAB,
t'.mb, 192.
Smi MoH. ben Abd-er-
RAHMAN BOU Kobe-
RAIN, 108.
SIDI MOH. BOU KOBE-
RATN. 203.
Sidi Moussa, 140, 163.
SIDI NAAMAN, koubba
of, 106.
SIDI OKBA mosque,
216.
SIDI RACHID, 219.
Smi RAHEL, oasis, 219.
SIDI REHEUR, 202.
SIDI YAHIA. tomb of
162.
SIDI ZEHILI. 303.
SIG, river, 178.
SIGA, ancient, 28 1.
SiGUS, ruins of, 234.
SiMITTU, ruins of, 301.
SiHotxD, the, 3.
SKIRA, port oi; 325.
SMENDOU, OUED, 185.
Snakks, 74.
Socii^Ti'; I'rotectrice Al-
sacienne-Louuaine, 82,
143-
Soci6t6 Gi!;si5ralk Al-
(;I5kiexni:, 108.
Sors, the, 15
SoLOM<1N, 222.
SOUF, 19.
SOUFLAT, 61.
SOUK AHRAS, 299.
Junction for TEB-
ESSA.
Ilf'tel de Taija-fte ;
358
IXDEX AND DIRECTORY
Souk Ahras.
Grand II'M, Iwtli fiiiily
good.
Buffet at station.
SOUK EL - ARBAA
(Tunisia), 302.
IIolil at tlie station.
Diligence to El-Kef.
Souk el-Djemaa, 143.
Souk el-Haad, 156.
SOUK el-Khamis, 303.
SOUMA BINT-EL-ABRI,
228.
SOUMAH, 197.
SOUMAH, iron mines, 166.
SOUMAM, OUED, 202.
SOUMAR, 245.
SOUMAT - EL - KHENEG,
22S.
Sour Ghozlan, 164.
SPAHIS, 66.
Sport, 67.
Spratt, Rev. D., bis
diary, 42.
Springs, Lot, 80 ; Ami-
miu, 127 ; Bains de la
Reiue, 183 ; Berda, 241;
Bou Hadjar, 255 ; El-
Hamma, 1S5 ; El-Ham-
mam, 159 ; Hammam
Bou Hanefia, 275 ; Fon-
taine de la Gazelle, 214;
Grous, 163 ; Melouan,
140 ; Meskoutiu, 238 ;
R'Irlia, 169 ; Salaliin,
216 ; Sidi Ali ben-Youb,
270.
SRIGINA, island, 1 19.
STAOUELI, battle of, I09;
plain, 108 ; la Trappe,
108 ; Notre Dame de,
109.
Steamers, i.
STORA, 119.
Subterranean Lakes,
19, 73-
Sufetula, 332.
SUSA, or SOUSSE, 319.
Brit. Vice - Consul,
William Galea, Esq.
Ilutd de France, fairly
good.
Boat for landing, 1.50.
Tarf.
Railway to Kerouan.
PAOK
319
3>9
319
320
320
History
Gates, Port
Tho Kasr (-r-Riltat
Till! Bal) cl-Gliarl)!
Poinilatioii, Tiailc
Susa to Jieriiuan, 328.
Syr, the ancient, 267.
T
TA-BABORT, ascent of,
118.
TABARCA, islaudof, 130 ;
liistory, 130.
Tabia, 266, 270.
TABLAT, 163.
TADMITZ, Ibrest of, 1 52.
TAFFAMAN, 266.
TAFNA, treaty of, 57.
TAFNA, river, 264, 267.
TAFAROUA, 277.
TAGASTE, 300.
TAGDEMPT, or TAK-
DEMT, 251.
TAGEMSDETT, forest,
267.
TAGHIT, mercury mines,
213.
TAGRAMARET, 254.
TAGURA, 229.
TAKENBRIT, ruins of,
281.
TA KITOUNT, col de, 200.
TA KITOUNT, fort, 200.
TAKSEBT. 114.
TALET Mizeb, 145.
TAMALA, OUED, 200.
LES TAMARINS, 213.
TAMDA, 145.
TAMERNA, 219.
TAMGOUT LALLA KHA-
DIDJA. DJ., 146, 158.
TAMOUDA, 144.
TANARAMUSA CASTRA,
150, 1 68.
Taoura, 229.
Taourirt Amram. 147.
TAOURIRTMAIMON. 146.
TAOURIRT EL HAD J. 1 46,
TAOURIRT TEIDILI, 1 47,
TAOURIRTE, 158.
TARF, 14.
Thessalab.
TARJA, 300.
Taten-Yaya, 271.
TAZA, OUED, cave of,
118.
TAZMALT, 204.
TEBESSA, 222.
PAOE
History . . 222
Tenijile of .Jupiter . 223
Triuiiiplial Arch of
Cuiacalla . . 224
Basilica . . . 225
Roman Aquednct . 227
Excursions . . 228
mtel Metropole. H.
C'alama, both bad.
Tebessa to Souk- Ahras,
228. j
TEBOURBA (Teburbo Mi-
nus). 304.
TEDLES. Cai.e, 1 14.
TEFKHASID, OUED, 3 1 8.
TELERGMA, 162.
Tell, the, 14, 162.
TELL A, DJ., 311.
TELLLA. APODA, the, 163.
Temacin, 220.
TEMDA, OUED, 174.
TEMOUCHENT, OUED,
255-
TEMOULGA, 172.
Temperature, table of,
T^NES, 246.
Hotel de la Paste, poor.
TENIET-EL-AHD, 141.
Jl'itel de Ciifdinerce,
good.
Cedar Forest, 141.
TERNATEN, 253.
TERNY, 264.
TESSAA, OUED, 303.
THAYA, 237.
A Buffet, where it is
just possible to sleep.
Mules may be hired for
excursion to the caves.
Thermal Springs ; see
Springs.
THESSALAH, mountain
269.
INDEX AND DIRECTOUY
359
Theveste.
THEVESTE. 223 ; see Te-
liL-ssa.
THIERS, 157.
THIERSVILLE, 276.
THUBURSICUM Numida-
RUM, 232.
TIARET, 251.
J/6(el tie Commerce, in
tlie fort, iiiconveuiently
situated. Cti/i iVOrient,
in the new town, close to
l)ost and diligence station,
better ; ueitlier very good,
but will no doubt be im-
proved ;i-s Tiaret becomes
more known.
Diligence to Freuda,
8 Ins., f.
Carriage to Djedars,
20 r.
Arab Market, Mon-
day.
TIBILIS, ruins of, 239.
TICHY, 202.
TlFESH, 231 ; valley, 231.
Tl FILKOUTH, 245.
TIFROURA, DJ., 275.
TIGAUDA, MUNICIPIUM,
172.
TIGHAOUT, river, 174.
TIGZIRT, ruins of, 1 14.
TIJDID, 247.
TIKLAT, 203.
TILIOUANET, 177.
TIMEGAD, ruins of, 208.
TINGURTIA, 251.
TINJA, OUED, 312.
TINSILT, salt lai<e, 205.
TlOUT, oasis of, 278.
TIPASA, 134.
Il'itrl dis Bains de
Mir, fairly good.
TIRILTE, 15S.
TIROURDA. COL DE, 1 47.
TiTMOKREN, fore-st, 264.
TlXTER, 160.
TIZAIRT, 244.
TIZI, 265, 275.
TIZIBART. 245.
TIZI-N-DJAMA, 147.
Tuggurt.
TIZI-OUZOU, 143. 203.
llnid ,/,.s- I'ostes.
TIZI R ACHED, 146.
TIZIRENIFF, 143
LE TLELAT, river, 179.
TLEMgEN, 255.
PAOE
Situation . . 256
History . . 256
Jlo.squc'S . . . 257
Museum . . . 258
Fortilications . . 259
Mi>sr)Ui' of A};liailir . 259
Arab Cemetery . . 260
Hon Medin . . 260
Arab College, or Mc-
(b-assa . . . 261
Tlie Saliariilj . . 262
UCtel de France; H.
de la Paix.
Route either by Oran,
and Am-Temouchent, or
by St. Barbe de Tlelat,
Sidi-Bel-Abbes and Lam-
oriciere.
Tobacco, 84.
TOMBEAU DE LA CHRE-
TIENNE, 138 ; legend
of, I 38.
TOMBEAU DE LA NEIGE,
203.
To.MBS NEAR MECHi5rA,
250.
TONGA, hike, 306.
TORRE Chic A, 109.
TOUDMAN, OUED, 275.
TOUMLET, DJ., I S 5, 271.
LA TRAPPE de" STA-
OUELI, loS.
TRARLA, OUED, 265," 276.
Tuavelling, season foh,
5.
LES TREMBLES, 1 64.
TRITON, lake, 325.
LES TROIS MARABOUTS,
279.
LES TROIS PALMIERS,
246.
LES TROIS RiVlilRES,
265.
TUGGURT, 59, 219.
A very rutle hotel.
Diligence runs from
Hiskra every second day.
Tunis.
occupies 3 days.
Cost,
100 f. Bad.
PAOE
Mosques
220
Date Pahns
. 220
TUNIS, 284.
I'AOE'
Regency of
. 284
Historical Sketeli
. 284
Tlie Goletta
. 286
City .
. 286
Situation .
. 286
Populatiou
. 287
Streets ami Lanes
. 288
Cemetery .
. 288
Churches .
. 288
Colleges
. 289
Mosques
. 290
Native Trooi>s .
290
Dar-el-13cy .
. 290
Kasba Walls
. 290
Exeui-sions
. 291
H.B.M. Consul, R.
Druniinond Hay.
Hotels : Grand Hold
on the Esplanade of
the .Marine ; good. //.
de Paris, R. Bab Zira,
under the same manage-
ment. 116(el Gigino in
square next to British
Consulate.
Baths : There are ex-
cellent French baths close
to tlie marine gate. Three
Turkish ones are available
for Christians — Ilam-
mamel-Kashashin, Ilam-
viam Bar el-Djild, and
Hammani Sauk el-l>ji-
znna. The usual cost is
about 2 piastres (a .shill-
ing) for earli person.
Means of Communi-
cation ; sie Cdktta.
English Church of St.
Augustine ilron, llev.
C. J. W. Flad.
Public Carriages :
Tramways through the
town. Ordinary Carri-
ages. 15f. a day ; f. 1.80
per lir. in, ami 2.40 out-
side the town. Course 1
to 3 f.
360
INDKX AND DIRECTOnV
Tunis.
Railways: 1'lie Italian
Rly. to the Goletta and
Marsa, Leliiiid C'atliedral.
French lily, to Algeria,
with branch to Hani-
niam-el-Enf on opposite
side of Marina.
Tunis to Alijiers, 298.
Tunis to El- Kef via
Souk el-Arbda, 308.
TuHcos, 66.
TUKKS, II.
u
Utica, 133, 310.
V
VALLEE DES CONSULS,
1 10.
VALMT, 179.
Vegetables, 83.
Zaghouan.
LA Verdure, 299.
Verecunda, 208.
Vesoul Benian, 170.
VILLE DES MINES, 1 50.
Vine, cl'ltivatkin ok
THE, 85.
Voile Noire, rock, 121.
VOIROL COLONNE, thf,
107.
W
el-Wadhaha, 213.
Wahash, Dj., 197.
WARNIER, 246.
Welis, or Saints' Tombs,
245-
Y
Yebdar, 266.
Zaghouan, 316.
Aqueduct .
PACE
313. 3M
Zurich.
Zaghouan Continued.
PAGE
Aiupliitlieatre . . 315
Tlicatre, Ue.ser\'oiis.. 315
History . . . 316
El-Kasba . . . 316
ZAIAM, OUED, 1 58.
ZAKKAR, mountain, 1 70.
EZ-ZAN, OUED, 132.
Zana, Dj., 311.
zaouiet-susa, 320.
Zarzis, 327.
Zebecha, Dj., 153.
ZEMBRA, i.shmd, 1 33.
ZENATA, country, 281.
zen ati, oued, '237.
Zeralda, 137.
z'hour, oued, 119.
Zlama, 116.
ZIBAN, 17, 216.
Zoology, 70.
ZouAOUA Tribe, THE, 147.
ZURICH, 62, 134.
Printed by R. & R. Clakk, Euinburgh.
MURRAY'S Handbook
ADVERTISER,
1890-1891,
CONTAINING
USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS,
RAILWAY
AND
STEAMBOAT COMPANIES,
HOTELS,
AND
MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS.
2 MUI;RAY'S IIANDIiOOK ADVKRTISKn. May,
GOMPAGNIE
MESSAGERIEs' MARITIMES.
FROM MARSEILLES TO
AUSTRALIA AND NEW CALEDONIA.
On tlio 1st of every montli for Mnh6 (Seychelles) King Georpje's Sound,
Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Noumea, (ransliipping at iMahe for Reunion
and IMauritius.
EAST COAST OP AFRICA.
On the 12t]i of every niontli for Port-Said, Suez, Obock, Aden, Zanzibar,
Mayotte, Nossi-be (branch line for the AVest Coast of Madagascar), Diego-
Suarez, St. Marie, Taraatave, Reunion and Mauritius.
CHINA AND JAPAN.
Every alternate Sunday on and after -Itli May for Alexandria, Port-
Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo, Singajiore (branch line for Batavia), Saigon
(branch line for Quin-hon, Tourane, Hai-phong), Hong-Kong, Shang-hai,
Kobe and Yokohama.
CORISESPOXDIXG EVERY FoUR WeEKS.
1° at Colombo for Pondicherv, Madras and Calcutta.
2° at Saigon fur JIanilla.
KTJRRACHEE, BOMBAY.
Branch line from Aden to Kurrachec and Bombay corrcsjwnding with the
East Coast of Africa an.l Australian lines.
MEDITERRANEAN.
For Constantinojilc and Odessa every other Saturday (on and after 10th
May).
Constantinople and Black Sea ports every other Saturday (on and after
17tb May).
Alexandria, Port-Said, Syrian Ports, Smyrna, Salonica, Pirjeus (on and
after 10th May)-
Pirteus, Salonica Smyrna, Syrian Ports, Port-Said, Alexandria (on and
after 17th May).
LONDON.
Weekly trom Marseilles to Havre and London (merchandise only).
FROM BORDEAUX TO
ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1° On the 5th of each month for Lisbon, Dakar, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo
and Buenos Ayres.
2° On the 20th of every montli for Corunna or Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Per-
nambuco, Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo and Buenos Ayres.
3° On the 12th of each month (steerage passengers and merchandise only,
for La Corogne, Vigo, Las Palmas, Montevideo, Buenos Ayrcp, Bahia
Blanca.
4° On the 2Sth of each month (steerage passengers and merchandise
only) ^for Las Palmas, IMontevideo, Buenos Ayres and Rosario (calling
occasionally at Passages, Marino, Corunna and Vigo).
j PAEIS: 1, RUE VIGNON.
OFFICES I MARSEILLES: 16, RUE CANNBIERE.
( BORDEAUX : 20, ALlJ^ES d'ORLEANS.
1890. MURRAY'S IIANDliOOK ADVtRTJSKK.
NORDDEUTSCHER LlOYD,
BREMEN.
Imperial and United States Mail Steamers.
THIS COMPANY ARE THEIR OWN INSU REUS.
The following magnificent ClyJe-biiilt Kxjircss Steamers —
"Lalin," "Saale," "Trave," "AUer," "Ems," "Eider,"
"Werra," "Eulda," "Elbe," of £500 tons, 8000 horse power,
^vhich are among-st the fastest and iqost luxuriously fitted
vessels afloat, . .
ARK Ari'OINTED TO S\IL BETWl-EX
BREMEN AND NEW YORK,
Calliiif^ at Southampton for I'assougcrfl and ^luils. From Bremen
every WeducBclay and Saturday ; from Southampton every Thursday
and Sunday ; from New York every ^Vcduesday and Saturday.
• , . • Fares to New York fbom
Bremen, Southampton, Havre, Tarie,
let Class: 300 to 525 Mks. 235 to 195 Mks. 300 to 610 Mks. 315 to 525 Mks.
2nd „ 200 to 300 „ 200 t3 270 „ 200 to 285 ,, 205 to 35^ ,',
Fakes from New York to
Bremen, Southampton, London, or Havre. | j^'j*'''*^'^ '■ 5^]^ ^J?|
The above-named prices are determined by the Bcason of the year and the position
of state-room.
This Company has regular Mail and Passenger Steamers between
Bremen and the following ports: Baltimoue (direct), weekly; Bahia,
Rio de Janeiro, and Santos, v/a Antwerp and Lisbon, monthly ;. Monte
Video and Buenos Ayres, twice a month. , ,
ALSO MONTHLY MAll. AND PASSENGER SERVICES TO
EASTERN ASIA
(CHinSTA AND JAPAN ,
AM)
AUSTRALIAN PORTS.
Full particulars on application to the Company in Bremen or to the |
undermentioned Agents. ... ., " , i
AGENTS IN LONDON:
Keller, Wallis, k Co., 32 Cockspur Street, Charing C^ss; 5 anil 7 Fencliurch ,
Street, E.C. • '
PiiiLMprs and Graves, Botolph Honse, Eastchcap, E.C.
Agents in Southampton Kellrb, Wallis, and Co.
„ I'aris and Havre Liikuurttk, Kane, and Co.
„ New York OeLiKciia and Co., No. 2 Bowling Green.
„ Baltimore A. .Sciiumacmer and Co.
„ Antweri IF. Ai.heht df. Hvut Co.
Li-l)o:i Kniiwi 1 s. IIau I -, and Co. I
^::=T
MUUKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEIiTISER. May,
DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY.
'I'he (J.Miip.uiy'H l''irst-('la,si Salixjn I'ad'lle .Stcamfr<,
Duke of Argfyll, Duke of Leinster, Lord Gough, and the l'"ir.st-
Cliiss Screw Steiimcr General Gordon, or otlior Steamers,
Arc intended to Sail as per Monthly Sailing liills, \'u1p.->8 prevented by any unforeseen
occurrence, from
DTTBLIIV TO G^L^\.SOO^W
Kvery MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY,
THURSDAY and SATURDAY. From
GL^VSOOA^^ TO r>UBLIIV
Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY,
THURSDAY and SATURDAY, calling at Greenock both ways, except .Saturday Boat
from Dublin, which proceeds direct to G lasgow.
Return Ticket to Edinburgh £ «. d.
Cabin Fare (including Steward's
Fees) 13 9
Return Tickets (6 Months) ..100
Steeroge 5
Return Tickets (6 Months) ..080
(2 Month-i) 1 10
Single Ticket to Edinburgh
(3rd Class and Deck) ... 7 6
Return Ticket to Kdinburgh
(2 Months) (3rd Class and
Single Ticket to Edinburgh . . 18 6 I Deck) 12
Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinburgh Direct, without change of
carriage, by either Caledonian or North British Railway, according to the Ticket they hold.
The Caledonian Railway Stations are Catlicart Street, Gremock ; and Prince's Street,
Edinburgh. North Brit'sh Company's — Lyndoch Street, Greenock ; and Haymarket and
Waverley Stations, Edinburgh.
*^ Passengers are also Booked AVellington Street, Through between Dublin and the
principal Railway Stations in Scotland.
AGEISTTS. — Henry L,v>rosT, 70, Wellington Street, Glasgow, James Little & Co.,
Excise Buildings, Greenock.
STTBUIV OmCES.— Booking OflBces for Passengers — 1, Eden Quay; where
Berihs can be secured up to 2 o'clock p.m., on day of Sailing.
CHIEF OFFICE AND STORES.-H, NORTH WALL.
Further particulars. Monthly Bills, &c.. on application to { |; Ml^N,^;eSj/aiag.r.
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
From and to IrongaU and St. Katherine't Wharf, near the lower.
LONDON AND OSTEND.— Prom London.— Wedneadny and Sunday. — From Ostend —
Tuesday and Friday. KARB3, Chief Cabin, 10». or 7s. 6 J. Eeturn, 15s. or U». Sd.
LONDON AND ANTWERP.*— Twice a week. See Time-tables.
LONDON AND HAMBURG.— ''■" Thames- Every Tlinrsday and Saturday. Prom Hamburg-
Monday or Tuesday and Tlinraday or Friday. Vii\ Harwicli Wednej!d*y and Saturday from each end.
FABKS, vid Tliftmea. Chief Cabin, 30». and 20>. Return Ticket*, 4.^«. and 31».
,, Harwich (Parkeston Quay). Ist Class Bail and Saloon. Single, S's. M.
Keturn, bC>s. 3<1. 2nd Class Rail and Saloon. Single, Soa. 9d. lietum, 5S». 9<i. 2nd Class Rail and Fore
Cabin. Single, 25». 9d. Return, t8s. 9d.
LONDON AND BORDEAUX. —Every Friday. Prom Bordeaui-Kvery Friday. FARES
Chief Cabin. bOs. and 35». Return Tickets, Chief Cabin, tO«. and fOj. Excursion, 709.
LONDON AND ITALY.— Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo.
LONDON AND OPORTO.— Every three weeks. FARES, Ms, Chief Cabin only ; Ladles, lOs. extra
LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Obakton Pikb).— Every Wednesday and Saturday. From
Edinburgh. (Granton Pier)— Every We<lneaday and Saturday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 22». ; Fore Cabin, 16s.
Return, S4s. and 21». 6d. Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s.
LONDON AND HULL.*— Every Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 mom. From Hull— Every Wed-
nesday and Satuixlay. FAREJ, Saloon, 10s. ; Fore Cabin, 7s. Keturn Tickets, 15s. and lis.
Steward's Fees are included in above Fares and Return Tickets are available for two months, excepting on
the Edinburgh Station, where lliey are available for twelve months.
• Summer Service only.
YARMOUTH, MARGATE, RAMSGATE, DEAL AND DOVER.— From London Bridge
Whari. During the summer there are speaal Passenger Services.
For Bank Holiday arrangements see Special Advertisements.
During the season Excursion Tickets to the near Continental Ports are issued at reduced fares.
For any alterations that may be made, and further particular i, apply to the Secretary.
55, Great Tower Strut, London, B.C., or 14, Waterloo Place, S. W.
1890. MURUAYS HANDBOOK ADVEKTIStR.
>]:«X3]N'X>XX> SX3./k. "X-X^X
GLASGOW and BRISTOL CHANNEL.
The First Class Steamers nrnHFIi, MEOnw r, SOLWAY, AYO.\\ and SKVKUy, will
Sail as undtr (calling at Greenock, IVinoe's I'ier) —
Ol.isgow to Bristol via Relfaet every M-iiiday and Thursday at 2 p.m.
"ilasgow to Cardiff and Swansea via IWlfasl every Friday at 2 p.m.
Glasgow to Newpoit via Bolfast tvcr.v alternate Friday at 2 p.m.
Jiristid to Glifgow via lielfii.'it every .Slonday and 'I'liursday evening.
Cardiff to Glasgow via Swansea every .Monday p.m. tide.
Swansea to Glasgow viii Helfast every Wednesday evening.
Newport to Glasgow via Swansea an t BelfaH every alternate Tuesday p m. tide.
These Steamers have verj- superior ace nimodatiuii for Passengers, carry Stewardesses,
and afford a favourable opportuiity for miking K.-ccursion^ from Wist of England to
Ireland and Scotland.
Fares— Glasgow: Cabin, 20j. Steerage, 12s. 6d.
„ Belfa-t: „ 17s. 6d. ,, lOs.
Returns issued at Far3-and-Half, available fjr Two Months, and can be usei to return
from any of the ports.
Circular Tours can be made viii London and Fast Coast in connec ion with Carron Co's
Steamers to Grangemouth ; London and Edinburgh Shipping Co.'s Steamers to Leith ; and
(Jenercl Steam Navigation Co.'s Meamers to Granton. Cabin Fare, 368. Also per Dundee,
I'erth and London Shipping Co.'s Sleaiiers from London lo Dundee. Cabin Fare, 378. 6d.
And jier Ali-rdeen Steam Navigiiion Co.'s Stcam-TB from London to Aberdeen. Cabin
Fare, £2 5s. These Fares are e-xclusive of all lUilway Fares for Kail parts of the
Journej-.
Guide Books and further Particulars on application to —
WILLIAM SLOAN & CO., 8, Gordon Stre;t, Glasgow.
ALGIERS. MUSTAPHA- SUPERIOR.
Sanitai'.v Station.
Hotel d'Orient and Hotel Continental.
First-class Houses. Full souili. Situated in a large park and i)ine
forest. Magnificent views. Omnibus in attendance at the arrival of
steamers.
LAWN TENNIS.
HEICHERTER & HILDENBRAND, Proprietors.
AMIENS.
GRAND HOTEL DU EHIN,
PLACE ST. DENIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, tlic nearest to the Cathedral and
Kailway Station. Much frcquentefl by English and Americans.
Spacious Apartments and airy I'.ed Kooms. Private and Public Saloons.
Warm Baths. Large Garden. Omnibus to and from each Train.
English Interpreter.
CH. FICHEUX, Proprietor.
6 MUIMIAY'S IIAKDHOOK ADVKITISIv'^. Mav,
AMIENS.
r:i KAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVEUS.— First-CluHe, Hotel recently
^-^ LUlargrd, facing St. Driii-*' Square, near the I'ailway SUitimi. I bree minutes' walk
to tbe Cathedral. Dr.iwing ami Bath Rooms. Kti'^llsh Interpreter.
Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train.
AMIENS.
HOTEL DE FRANCE, D'ANGLETERRE, AND DE L'EUROPE.
BKULK, I'roprii-t-r.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Maseiim, and other Public Buildings.
Having b^en recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Kamili''S and Single
Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms.
Omnibus at the Station. English spoken.
AMSTERDAM.
AMSTEL HOTEL.
^^
TTTHIS Magnificent FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is
■^"^ situated near the Zoological and Botanical
Gardens, the Crystal Palace, Museums, &c. Cheerful
views on the Amstel river. It is provided with
every Comfort, and contains 200 well-furnished
Rooms and Saloons, Reading and Smoking Rooms,
and a special Ladies' Saloon. First-rate Table
and Choice Wines."
Terms IVTodei'ate. Lift.
Railway, Telegraph Offices, and Stables attached to the House.
R. SEQUEIRA, jun., Manager.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL ST. ANTOINE.
PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL.
THIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well-
merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished
and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate
Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms ; fine Salle a
Manger, excellent Table d'Hote and choice Wines.
English, American, and French Papers.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
ANTWERP.
GRAND HOTEL.
1) KOPEN'ED bv, and under the direction
t of Air. SclioeRtcr WIertz, tlie well-
l;no\vn i)roi)riiMor of H'ltel de I'l'nivei.'i,
lin;sse!s.
AVIGNON.
GRAND HOTEL
LE L'EUROPE.
VERY GOOD.
1890.
WURRAVS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
AVRANCHES.
GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES.
MoRET,, new I'roprietor. First Class
ILjuse. Near I'ost ;iii 1 Tfl-crapb. Apatt-
ments and Kooms fur F'aiuilies Smoking
liojm. Large Garden. .Moderate Trices.
Omnibuj to all the trains.
AVRANCHES.
GEAND HOTEL D'ANGLETEERE.
Itecenlly reconati act«<l Hni] newly farnMicJ
tliDUglu'Ut with l.rte aii.liiiun^, m.il every j«js9ible
G mfort. C«'eurate.l C«lUr. EiitjlUii r«p<T?.
Mo<leiate rri<-t;!<. Omnilmi at Siatiun. Cairia^iM
for Moaat bt, Michel nud Excurdioiis.
A. UoPLLtOATTE, Pr.l>rW.r.
BADEN- BADEN
Proprietor, Mr. FEANZ GHOSHOLZ,
THIS is one of tho finest-built and best-furuislied First-
Class Hotels, main front witli Moruin;^ Sun, situated in tho new
Promenade nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths ; it
commands the most charmiu;^ views, and is reputed to be one of tho best
Hotels in Geriuatiy. Principally frequented by English and American
Travellers. Plighly recommended in every respect, vtry moderalL' charges.
Table d'hote at I and G o'clock. English and otlur Journals. Beautiful
airy Dining Kooms, Ladies' Drawing IJoom, Heading and Smoking Kooms.
Pension in tho early and latter purt of the sea.son.
llijdrauUc Lift. Bath liooias. Sauilnrt/ An-angeniintii p'rr'ect.
BADEN-BADEN .
First-class Estalilislimcnt, N
VE11.SATI0N HOUSE and NEW
I'.VTHS. Xow siirriju
<nVN BE.VUTIFUL
PARK.
by
"^O^^
YEAR
Charges strictly moderate.
]) tial iirrai)gemo;its for a prolonged st..y. Peniion.
HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES.
A. l:i '-^SI.Kl*. J'roprielor.
BALE.
HOTEL EULER.
FIRST CLASS HOTEL.
Opposite the Central Station.
BASLE.
HOTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM
DEUTSCHEN HOP.
(UTOSITK lUe Uadcn P.nilway Station.
' ' Comfortable accouiinotlatlon. Moderate
Cbargos.
M. ERNE, Proprietor.
BAYEUX.
HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG.
TJEPUTED the best. Situated in the cintre of llio town, close lo tlie Catbcdnil and
XI' public build lips. Breakfast, 2 fr. .Sii c. ; I)innrr, .3 fr. U..onis from 2 fr. Table d'h6te.
I'.ostauraut :i la carte. tjard'-n. Killianl room. I:, rriitiuii i;niiiiiil. Carriaci s for
K>;ciir<iom. KNGLTSH SPOKKN'
BELFAST.
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL.
Just lic-dtrnratid and L'nhtrijrd. Fii\tl-Clit^<. Inst Situation.
Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers.
W, J. JURY, Propietor.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
BERLIN.
GRAND HOTEL DE ROME
UNTEB DEN LINDEN, 39, opposite the Boyal Palace.
This old, reputed, first-class Hotel, Las the best situation in
the Town, close to all the principal sights and Royal
Theatres. Lately re-furnished throughout.
Splendid RESTAURANT, looking out over the " Linden."
"CAFE." DRAWING ROOM FOR LADIES. BATHS. LIFT.
TABLE dHOTE. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Newspapers in all Languages. Omnibus at Stations. Moderate Charges.
Proprietor: ADOLF MUHLING,
I'urveyor to the Imperial Court.
BAYONNE.
GRAND HOTEL ST. ETIENNE.
PIEST-CLASS HOTEL.
-L Most highly recommended to
Families as being the best in
Bayonue. Arisfocratic Hotel.
BERLIN.
HOTEL ROYAL,
F. LANGE, PaopictETOR.
UAThR DEX LIXUEX,
No. 3, WILHELUSTRiSSSX-ECKE.
Only a Few Minutes Distance from the
Staiitbahnhof FrieJrichstrasse.
BILBAO.
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
BEST SITUATED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. — Near the Station
and Theatre. Close to the Post and Telegraph OEBces, on Promenade. Interpreter.
Omnibus at the Slaiio". L. MONET.
GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS.
131. C3- 1 C3- IsT O IsT .
Highly recommended to Strangers.
VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D'HOTE AND PRIVATE DINNERS.
Apartments for Families. Close to the Ccutle of Bhin.
Comfortable Carriages for visiting Chambord and the Environs.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
1890, MURRAY'S HANDIKK)K ADVERTISKi:
BIARRITZ.
GRANDE PLAGE.
THIS new Hotel in built with all tiie latcht improvements of comfort.
N<ar the I5rili)<li Club, in the centre of all the best Promenades. 100 Itooius and
.Saloons. Facing the S ■«, and full ."^outh. I'enowneii Cuisine. Motlrrute Chart; s.
J. FOURNEAU C/roHt tht IIOUl dt J-'ranct).
LIFT] BONN. [I.IH'-
GRAND HOTEL ROYAL.
ON tliC Bunks of the Khino. Euroi)can repute. 200 liooins and Salons.
Situation without equal, facing the Ithine, Seven Mountains and I'ark. Near the
Landing-pluce and Railway .Station. Kxtensive English Gardens. Ii''ading, Smoking ainl
Billiard Kooms. Ijadies' .Salons. Arrangements on the most uioderau- teinis f.ir
Pension. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. L. VOGELER.
BORDIGHERA.
HOTEJL, .4.r\GJ«^T.
First-ClasB Hotel with every niodern comfort, fituated in the middle of a large beautiful
garden on tie Strada Koniauu. Shelttred pobilioD. JJagnilicent view. Itett draiuuge-
syotem by ihe English Sanitary Co.
Ci nducted by the Propri tor. A. ANGST (Swiss).
I urnierly Grand Hotel de Bordighera.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
£ gU.h and French Boarding Establishment and Family Hotel,
96, 98, 100, & 102, RUE DE BOSTON,
OITOSITK (lie CftKinii llHlliiii),- E«t»l.li..linKi]', ijiar thr Sti.nm Tiukt^is ami Hiiilwnv .'^tAlion, biiiI huviiiK
■ Rl.ltnili.l Se« \if« lr..m tin- pit^iiM' e ..arilms of the I1..I.1, TprmB iiiiKlernle'. hiiI iiiK.<iiil «nHn(:e-
i m-lHH fur Ihe Winlcr Sfiumn. l.y d ir. ww-k. or nimilh. Hili^-li. Il.,arilirj l&ejynl. KjImIiIiiiIiinI .'.ii >cH n-.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL DES BAINS ET DE BELLE VUE.
MM. MESUREUR & CO., Proprietors.
FIRST CLASS HOTEL. siiuateJ Klk Vk kh: Hi go (^late Rue de I'Ecu), and on the Port
facing the Railway Staticm and SicanuTK.
Hot and Cold .Sea Haths and VajKiur Paths in the House.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
GRAND HOTEL CHRISTOL & BRISTOL
JPirst-clfiss Hotel.
Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended
for Families and Gentlemen.
Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats.
SAGNIER and F. CHRISTOL, Proprietors.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL DERVAUX,
73 to 80, GRANDE RUE; and 24, RUE DES VIEILLARDS.
rpiHE most healthy part of Roulogne, near the Po.-it Ofllce, KuKlish Church, Th'-atre, and
J. Market. The Hotel is now carried on by Mr. Ai.riloNsK DKitVAix.son of the founder.
ArraDgements by the day, week, or month. Urilncd jirlcis durlnp tin- winter minihs.
10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEUTJSKR. Mar,
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
BRIGHTON AND MARINE HOTEL
JACQUES LECERF, Proprietor.
A large firs'.-class llutul, I" .st tituatiuii in lln; lo'. n, fji:ing tlie S-a and the "Etablisse-
iiiciit dos liains," the (lardeii of wliicli is sopa'ated from tlie Hold by tin road only.
Visitors to this llotel havo the .idvantage of hcuring, from llii-ir o«n room?, the Military
ISa nd wliith plays in the Ganlen. The Hotel has been newly furnished.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. ,
HOTEL jDU PAVILION IMPERIAL.
First-rldgs Uoti I.
The only one facing- the Sea.
VERMERSCH, Proprietor.
BRUNSWICK.
HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS.
(HOTEL. GERMAN HOUSE.)
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, GOOD ATTENDANCE, COMFORTABLE.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
ROBERT SCHRADER.
BRUSSELS.
GRAND HOTEL GERNAY.
Moderate Ckargeg. Ancien Proprie'taire de Pllotel de Portugal a Spa.
This Hotel is close to the Kailway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp,
and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord.
Baths in the Hot el. Telefihone.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE STJEDE.
FIRST GLASS.
CENTRAL PART OF THE TOWN.
GOOD CUISINE. CHOICE WINES.
VAN CUTSEM.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE LA POSTE,
28, RUE FOSSE AUX LOUPS, NEAR THE PLACE DE LA MONNAIE.
FAilILT HOTEL SPECIALLY RECOMMEXDED TO ENGLISH TRAVELLERS.
Omnibus— Telephone. Lidies* and Smoking Rooms. English Spoken.
HYACINTHE TILMANS, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL MENGELLE
EydrauliG Lift. (RUE ROYALE). Hydraulic Lift.
B. ]\IENGELLE, Proprietor.
applied with every
five fi-ancs. Restaurant k la carte, and at fixed prices, at any hour. Excellent Cuisine
aud Choice Wiues. The Largest and J'inest Dining-Room in the Toun.
Baths, Smoking Room, Reading Room, Billiard Room.
Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season.
1890.
MQURAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
11
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
( CENTKAL.)
Fiist Class. Mixlerale Prices.
TaUe J'llAle, Restanmnt. Salon, Smoking- Room.
(iiirJen. Oinniljos ut Station. M. SliifffitT-Wieriz
lifu hiken ttl-o itie niaiia;£enieut of tbc Grand Hotel,
Antwrp.
BRUSSELS.
Murray's Handbook for Belgium
and Holland,
Tiienly-first Edition. With Maps and
I'lans. Post Svo. Gs.
.Idiuj JIdrkav, Alb<-niiirl(> Street.
BUXTON HYDROPATHIC and WINTER RESIDENCE
(M.VLVKRX HOUSE>,
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
-Tbe large-it and nio^t c'>niplete Hydro in the neighlwurhood. Central and Sheltered
situation. Close to Miti'^ral W'elU and Baths. Evory conifoit for Iiivulid.< and VisitoH.
Sanitary, ventilatiig, atid beating arrannemrnts on the ui'^^t approved principles.
Two HILLIAUD TABLES, SMOKING ROOM, spl^n lidly appuinled HALL UOOM.
The liATIIS have been wholly refitted with all tlie most roceiit appliances, and there
has been added as complete a system of Baths for MASSAGE TUEATMENT as engineer-
irtR -■•kill lus been able to devise.
For terms, etc., apply to the PROPRIETOR. Telegrams—" Buxton Hydro., Buxton."
CAEN.
oitA:vi> HOTEL i> iE«i»Ao:xii:.
(CYCLIST TOll;lN(J CI.ID )
FIRST-CLASS, and one of the best frequented. Kewly furnifhod. Near the Race Course,
l\sl ami Ttlcgni]ih Orlice, and ibe licat for Harre. E. RENAUX, Proprietor.
rochercIi4 table, pool familr cookery. Table dhflte cicjenncr 2 fr. 6)i-. : Dinner 3 fr. Sori ii* at M-pamle
tables for lamilii-i at tlio Mirne laice. Tht most r,rev:nnuiiJc.l. Ilni;li>li »i.jktn. Man ^irlcht l>t'DlK:b.
Sj.cctal infoimalion on tlio Cai io>ities of tlie Town.
CAEN.
HOTEL
I D'ANGLETERRE,
Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81.
Situated in the Centre of the Town. Eendezvous of the
best Society.
100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Rooms and
Sitting Booins.
BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE.
TABLE D'HOTE BREAKFASTS AT 3 FRANOS.
IDIinnE3^ AT TAISIS D'HOTE., ^ IFTiAHCSo
SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES.
KNGLISII AND SPANISH SPOKKN.
L. MANGEL, Proprietor.
12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEliTISEH. May,
CAIRO (Egypt).
HOTEL DTI NIL.
H. FRIEDMANN.
CAIRO. EGYPT.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
"THIS-First Class Hotel, newly built and handsomely furnislifd, is situated in the finest
^ and lieatiliicst part of the Isniailieh quarter, close to the ICnglisli and Catholic churches.
Perfect English sanitary arrangements. Large Vcranda'i, Drawing and Ladies' Saloons,
Keading, S.i.o'.ciiig and Billiard Rooms. Teims moderate. Best coukin^' in Cairo.
GEORGE NUNGOVICH, Proprietor.
CA NN ES.
HOTEL BEAU SITE
AND
HOTEL DE L'ESTEREL.
BOTH situated at the West End of Cannes, in the midst
of a most splendid Garden, and adjoining Lord Brougham's
property ; the healthiest part of the Town.
300 Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms.
Enlarged Draicing Room, separate Reading Room, SmoJcing
and Billiard Room, with Thurston 8 Tables.
BATH ROOM. LIFT WITH SAFETY APPARATUS.
THREE LAWN TENNIS COURTS,
CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN CANNES.
GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor.
CASINO DE CHERBOURG.
HOTEL DES BAINS DE MER.
0>'LY KSTABLISH.MENI" on the Sea Shore. Hot and Hydropathic Baths, with
.Sea Water.
Open 1st June till 1st Ocloher.
Director, Ls. MERTZ.
181)0. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13
CARLSBAD.
ANGER'S HOTEL (Branch, RHEIN HOTEL).
THESE Two First-Class Hotels ofifer special comfort to
Enj^lish and American Travellers, who will find them
most desirable residences.
Charges Moderate ; deservedly recommended.
ENGLISH & AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. BATHS, CARRIAGES, OMNIBUS, LIFT.
Mr. and Mrs. Anjcr speah English.
CARLSBAD.
HOTEL GOLDENER SCHILD.
WITH DEPENDENCE (TWO GERMAN MONARCHS).
THIS HOTEL has European celebrity, is very beautifully situated,
with large Garden, and is newly furnished and decorated. Travel-
lers will find here every comfort at moderate prices. English, French,
and German Newspapers. Open all the year. English Attendance.
F. ROSCHER, Hotelier.
CARLSBAD.
WIESINGER'S HOTEL NATIONAL.
On the Nenen Gartenzeihtrasse. First-CIasg Hotel. Open all the year.
THIS HOTEL, situated next to the City Park, and only four minutes
from all the Mineral Springs, commands a splendid view of tlio
Mountains ; is recommended to families and travellers in general. Large
Dining Rooms and shady Garden. Good German and French Cooking.
Moderate Charges.
The Proprietor, Ant. Wiesinger, has left his Hotel " Drei Fasanen"
on account of his increasing business in the above Hotel.
CHESTER.
FIKST-CI.A.SS. Situated in tlie centre of the City, close to the Cathrdral anJ other
objects of Interest. Two Large Coffee Uooms and Ladies' Drawing Room fur the
convenience of Ladies »nd Families. Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its
Branches. I lie llotfl I'orters and Omnibuses, for the use of Visitors to the Uotel, attend
the Trains. Tariff to be bad on application. A Night I'orter in attendance.
DAVID FOSTER, Manager.
COBLENTZ.
GIANT HOTEL— HOTEL DU GEANT.
THE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of
the Steamboats and Fortress Ehienbreitstelo. Fxcellent Cui^iine and Cellar.
Moderate Charges. Reduction for • long residence.
Propuietokp, EISENMANN Bros.
14
mui;i:ay'S handbook advki;tiser.
.if»r,
COBLENTZ.
GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
FIRST-CIjASS. Commaniliiig a splen-
did vipw of the libiiiL- and the
Fortress of Klircnbroit.-tfiu.
Moderate Chargres.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DISCH.
Kir l-ClaM HoiiM. Near Cathp.lml and Ctnlrnl
Stalion. Greatly oiilari^od. Efcry Ojinlurt fuuml.
20J l»>orn9 with 300 be In. Opinibttses m^tirtr;
'Iriin ftiil Steamer. C'lirjic* »iric« f.r wljoleinle.
Ily.l.aiilic Lift. Electric LlRhl. 0,U,Tir>:re» iu
^MMter. T. ilinrsTOPn, Vrnjirulor.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DU DOME.
Th. Mktz EanKN.— Tlii:i old and excellent Uonse
has lieen enlarged by an eb^^jant New Building, and
comfortably Utted-up ; it is advanlagO'Misly xiliiated
in the centre of the Cily, near tlie Catbedral and
the Central Ilailway Kbition. Table d'llftte 1 and
5 o'clock. Splendid Dining lioom, Ladies' Saloon,
Smoking Room, Sec. Uecommended to English
Toqrista. Moderate Charges.
CONSTANCE.
HOTEL & PENSION INSELHOTEL AM SEE.
j;IliST-CLAS.S IIOUSK, consid.-ral \y en-
1 larked by now buildinps. CommaDding
a magnificent view on the Lake of Constance
and the Al| 8. Beautilul (Jardeo. Warm
baths as well as baths in tlie lake and river.
A. Grutzschebauch, uirfUyr.
COPENHAGEN.
HOTEL KONGEN of DENMARK.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, mucli frequented by the highest class
of English ami American Travellers, affords first-rate accommodation
for Families and single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal
Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hote. ■ Private
Dinners. Best attendance. Readiug Room. Hot Baths. Lift.
English, French, German and American Newspapers.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. MODERATE CHARGES.
Ladies' Drawing Room. Vienna Coffee House.
CARRIAGES IN THE HOTEL.
R. KLiJM. Proprietor.
COPENHAGEN.
First-Class Hotel in the Centre of the To'wn.
CHARGES MODERATE.
N.B. — Patronized by His Majesty the Emperor of Russia.
C. E. SODRING, Proprietor.
BAD-CREUZNACH.
HOTEL ORANIENHOF.
LARGEST First-Clas^ House. Finest
situation in own grounds. Visited by
the Crown Princess of Gerraanj'. The
Oranienspring, strongest mineral spring at
Kreuznach, belongs to Hotel.
H. D. ALTEN, rroprietor^
COUTANCES.
HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS
H. SIFFAIT, Proprietor.
First-class i^ouse. Aparlments and Draw-
ing Room (Piano) for families. Terrace.
Near the Cathedral. Jloderate Pricts.
Omnibus to all Vic Trains.
CUXHAVEN (North Sea Bath).
E. D5lle, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, newly built, with a brilliant v.iew on the Sea
and Port, newly and comfortably fitted up, good Cuisine, Choice Wines, Warm
Sea-Baths in the house. Two minutes' from the Railroad Depot, fifteen minutes' to the
new Sea-bathing Ebtabllshment.
HOIEL CAURI.iiGE AT THE STE.\MB0.\T lANDINC.
DINANT-SUR-MEUSE.
HOTEL DE LA TETE D'OR.
ALEXIS DISIKRE, Proprietor.
riRST-CLASS, upon the GRAND PLACE.
^ Is to be jreconirnended for its coinfort.
Pen sion from 7 francs 50 centitnesjier^day
DRESDEN.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
ON THE PUBLIC PROMEXAUH,
Five Minutes from the Central Station.
Propritlor, C. WEISS.
1890. MU??RArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15
EISENACH (THURINGIA).
II O T £ 1. R A U X £: .\ ICIt A ^ Z.
Most beautiful view on tbe Wartburg. First anJ l:ug'-st Il.tpl in the City; favourably
known for its Moderate Prices, Kxcellcnt Cooking, and Cboicc \Vlncs.
\V. OPPERMANN.
ENGELBERG.
THE VALLEY OK ENGELRElUi (32.r0 ft. high) with its
KURHAUS AND HOTEL SONNENBERG.
THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer btay unrivallotl l)y its grand
Alpine scenery, as well as by the curative tflicacy of the climate against lung and chest
diseases, coughs, nervous ailments, &c.,&c. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Kecom-
mended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBEIW, in the finest
and healthiest situation facing the Titlla and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable
and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central
place for sketching, botanialng, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The
ascent of the Tltlis is best made from here. Shady \Voo<}s. Vapour and Shower Bathe.
W'atersprlng 5° U. ; 200 Rooms; Pension from 7 Jr. a day upwards. Because of its so sheltered
situation specially adapted for a stay iu May and June. liesident English Physician.
English Divine Service.
ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND.
KURHAUS HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS.
THIS First-Class Hotel, in the best situation of the valley, in the niiddic
of an extensive garden, has been recently much eiilarn;ed and
improved. 200 Beds. Lofty Dining Saloon. Large Saloon de lie'union,
with Veranda. Siuoking-Roora. Keadiiig-Room. Bdliard-s. Salle de
Musique. Lift. Electric Lighting in all Ruoins. 13athin Iho Hotel.
Good attendance, with Jlodcrate Chttrges.
English Chapel in the garden of the Hotel.
El). CA'J'IWNI. rroprhtor.
EXETER, DEVON.
POPLE'S NEW LONDON HOTEL.
OR Families and Gentlemen. Re funii.-hcd and Re-decorated. Lartre
F
_ covered Continental Courtyard. This First-Class Hotel has lon^
stood pre-eniin(.nt, and is ])atroniscd bj- the loadinj; County Families.
Adjoining Northeruliay Park, and witliin tlirec minutes widk of tlie
Catliedral. General Cuftee Room. Drawiug-ronm Suites of Apartments.
Table dilute at 7 o'clock. Night I'orter. Omnibuses aiul Cabs meet
every Train.
POSTING ESTABLISIDIENT.
Also Proprietor of (he GI<>h, lfi,t, I, Xciclim AhhoL
FRANKFORT-ON-MAIN.
FAMILY PRIVATE HOTEL.
liindenstr. 17 (West End).
16 MUIIIIAVS IIANDIIOOK ADVKIITISKR. May,
FRANZENSBAD. | Special Care p»id to
Kitcb II, Cclla-,
Unrivalled S.tUdtion.
Home Ojmfurta.
12 Salons. Balconies. yinsT-CLASS FMIIKY IIOTEI.. j »"<*
CO Ucdrooins. Kcw Tark witli spluridi.! Uwn TeiiiiU (Jroiiml. | AtU-nilance.
Under the superintendence of the Proprietor him elf, Mr. F. F. KOPP, 1-ite of
" Cosmopolitan Hotel," Nice.
FREUDENSTADT. (2,600 feet above sea.)
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
IIAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART, OFFENDURG, STRASSDURG.
I7IIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on a charming hill, and surrounded by a very
. extensive and beautiful Park. 60 very comfoitable lUdrfioms pnd Saloons, wiih
15 Balconies. Water and Milk cures. Klctricity. Massage. Pine needle and
Soole Baths.
BEST CENTRAL RESIDENCE TOR EXCURSIONS.
Elegant Coaches and Landau Carriarje< at the Hotel.
TROUT FISHING, AND VERY GOOD SHOOTING.
Moderate Chars'es. Pension.
ERXEST LUZ, Jl-><tor, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL BEAU HIVAGE.
THE LARGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA.
MAYER & KUNZ. Proprietors.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE.
Oklt Fii!St-ci.a?s Hotel opposite the Jaudim Anglais, and view of the Lake.
OPEN AJmIm the tear. X.ZFT. BATH-ROOMS.
J.'oderate chargfs and .special arravgements for prolovged stay.
ADOLPHE DTJRINGER. Proprietor.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
TflE LAK'iKST A\D BEST.
200 Rooms overlooking Lake and Mont Blanc.
LIFT. 4;AKUEN. ('0\< EKTS.
ARMLEDER & GOERGER, Proprietors.
GENEVA.
HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA
tFORMERIiY HOTEL FLAEGEL).
Finest situation, near the English Garden. Splendid view on the Lake and the Alps.
Moderate charges. No charge for light and attendance. Omnibus at the Station.
Lift. Baths. "*V. XIKSS, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL.
FACING LAKE AND MONT BLANC.
TERMS FROM SEVEN TO TEN FRANCS PER DAY,
ALL INCLUDED. LIFT.
1890.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
17
GENEVA.
HOTEL-PENSION BELLEVTJE,
RUE DE LYON.
HEALTHY Situation. Mo.-t extensive and
shady grounds. Cumtortable apart-
ments and single rooms. Higlily recom-
mend! d. Pension from 5 francs per day.
JEAN SUTTKUl.iy.
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA POSTE.
Best sanitary arrangements. 100 well-
furnishci rooms, from 2 to 3 francs tlie bed.
Tulle d'llote Dinner, SJ francs an 1 i fraiic*. wii e
iockiJed ; Snpprr. S fr*ucs. Piiuiim, (or sUy. 7
to 10 rmiira. Lifl.
GENOA.
HOTEL DE LONDRES
(Opposite to Rubattino's Office)
ET
PENSION ANGLAISE.
The nearest to the Central
Station.
First Class. Full South.
Moderate Prices.
FLECHIA & FIORONI.
Only FIRST-CLASS HOUSE built for an
Hotel ; in the healthiest position in the town.
G. BORGARELLO & CH. SON.
GRENOBLE.
HOTEL M:0NNET.
THIS Bplendidly-situated First-Class Hotel, which is the largest in the
Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Touriats,
lias just been considerably enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apart-
ments, largo and small, combine elegance and comfort, and every attention
has been paid to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public
and Private Drawing-rooms ; English and French Papers. Table d'Hote
at 11 and 6. Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate
Charges.
The Omnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains.
L. TBILLAT, Proprietor.
First-Class Carriages can bo had at the Hotel for Excursions to the
Grande Chartreuse, Uriago, and all places of interest amongst tlie Alps
of Dauphine.
URIAGE-LES- BAINS.
HOTEL 1«EHT>VUI^^V3NT, 310]VI\ET.
Founded in 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury
in this First-Class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families. Excellent
Cuisine and Wines. Table d'Hote, 11 and 6. Carriages and Hor8(« can
be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades.
18
MUHRAY's HANDBOOK Ar»vi:i:Tisi:!r.
Mav
GIJON (Spain .
aRAND HOTEL FRANCAIS,
LA IBERIA.
MAi.XIFICKNT SITUATION, bilween
tlie two Braclic'S. \'itjw on the I'ort
and "i>pn Sea. Apirtmeiit-> for Families.
Table d'Hfite and R(staurant.
I.. MAI.F.T, ProprKfor.
HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL DE DAEMSTADT.
Tlireo Minntcii' from llie St.-ilion. Tliii Hot.l.
Ufdulifully Kiiufttol on th'! lii«iiarck S<|iuire, Twj
Miuutea from the nfiw Nookar nridge, Li ■w'fll
kuown for lU good keeping and very moderatt
prices.
n KRALL, Propnetor.
THE HAGUE (Holland).
HOTEL DES INDES,
vooirMoxjT, s;g.
THIS magnificent First-Class Hotel is tlie largest in tlic city.
Charmingly situated near the Theatre, Park, Museum,
Telegraph, and the most frequented Promenades. It is
sujiplied with every modern accommodation and comfort.
XAniiC: i>h6te at six o'cxock.
Restaurant a la carte at any hour.
EXCELLENT CUISINE AND CHOICE WINES.
SMOKING ROOM, READING ROOM, BATH, AND CARRIAGES.
Rooms from 2 florins a day.
Arrangements made icith Families during the Winter Season,
P. WIRTZ, Proprietor.
HAMBURG.
HOTEIL. r>E L'ETJK^OFE.
r> ENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, patronized by II. P.. H. (he Prince of Wales, and by
{j most of the Imperial and Royal Families of Europe. SpUn lid situation, overlooking
the Alster-Bassin. 180 Ronns and Apartmenls. FJlegant Heading and Smoking Rooms,
eaths. Lift. Table d'Hote. BRETTSCHNEIDEE & BANDLI, Proprieto:s.
HANOVER.
GRAND HOTEL HARTMANN.
FIKST-CLASS Hotel, opposite the Central Station and Post Offic?,
with a beautiful " Restaurant and Cafe." Rooms from 2 Marks. Light and
Service included. Carriage in the House.
CHUISTIAX HART-MANX, Proprietor.
HARROGATE.
THE GRANBY."
I7IRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every accoui-
. modation for Visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every momir.g
free of charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. Tennis Court in the Grounds.
W. H. MILNEK, Proprietor.
1890.
JIUUILAVS IIANDDOOK ADVKIITISF.P.
GRAND HOTEL AND BAINS FRASCATI.
Open all the year. Tahle d"}I6te. Jlr.'^taurant jaciwj (he Sea.
ArraiiRcmeuts for Families. Tension from 12 fr. all tlio year rouii.I.
TH. FOTSCH, Directeur.
HEIDELBERG.
HOTEIa YICTORIA.
5?IRST-C'LAh^S HOTEL in every respect. Exotraiiigly will Situated.
- Beautiful Veranda and large Garden at ilio back of ilie House. Advantageous
arrangemeiiH made witU fomiliea intend ing a longer slay. Highly recomruended.
^ATHS OF HOMBURG.
HOTEL BELLJl VUE.— Firdt-Clais Hotel, exceoclingly well situated,
• opposite the Music ravilion, and close to the Springs. t'amilies, and Single
(ientlemen, will find Ibis Hotel one of tbe nio?t comfortable, ccmbining excellent
aiccurumodation with modeia'e Charges. IWst Tronch and Ki.gltsli Cooking. Kxcellent
Wines. Gale llcstuurant. Mineral, Tine, Shower, Cold, and Warm lUtlis indoors.
"W. FISCHER, Proprietor.
HILDESHEIM.
HOTEL WIENER HOF.
1711 IIS T-CLASS, in the centre of the town, n.ar iho Ca'.lndr.il and all llio onrlonttlcs, to
; which latter the Hotel itself, with its old w.>i>d-iarviii^>, bilonns in th.' first jil.ne.
Garden adjoining tbe bouse. Omnibus at the Railway .statli>n. (/Iil Hennnn Heer-room
iieuly opened. Km.i.ish Siukkn. CARL WE8EMANN, Proprietor.
HILDESHEIM.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
"l.j^IRS'r-CI-AS,S Huiim", cuiisideruMy iiiliirj,'ed by uiin.l.iitii^iial l)iiil<liiitr,
-*- situat'' In the centre of tbe city. Table J'Holc at 1 o'clock ; meals a la carle at all
b<(urs. Omnibus to all Trains, Garden adjoining the Hotel.
Km.lisii .\i;w...i-ArKUS. on jKirle frumait. Knglish :i*iltn.
I". IlKi;i;i)T, 1,. KiWr.l.'S NArm.n.iiKu, /Y.-y-citVur.
c z
20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
BATHS OF HOMBURG.
MINEBAL SPRINGS
very salutary for DISEASES of the STOMACH and LIVER
and ATTACKS of GOUT.
UNRIVALLED SUMMER CLIMATE.
SOVEREIGN CURE in NERVOUS DEBILITY.
MINERAL, PINE and MUD BATHS, highly recommended
for RHEUMATISM.
LAWN TENNIS GROUNDS.
All kinds of Amusements. Comfortable Hotels and Private
Houses at moderate prices.
MAGNIFICENT KURHAUS, with the well-known
RESTAURANT.
HOMBURG.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales and several other Royal I'ersonages. Highest and Driest Position. Kirst-
Class Hotel, close to Springs and Kursaal, with fine view of Taonus Mountaius. Quitt
Apartments. Newly enlarged by Three spacious Villas. At early and later part of
Season arrangements made on very reasonable terms. Best Stag Shooting, as well as Trout
Fishing, free for guests of Hotel. Lawn Tennis. Fournisseur to H. R H. Prince of Wales and
H.R.H. Duke of Mecklpnhurg Strelitz. GUSTAVK WEIGAND, Proprieloi-.
HOMBURG.
HOTEL DES QUATRE SAISONS, and VILLA, with the finest views
of the Taunus, kept by Mr. W. SCHLOTTERBECK.— This first-rate House is
exceedingly well situated near the Sources and the Kursaal. It combines every comfort
desirable with moderate charges. It has a beautiful Garden for the nte of Visitors. Higliest
position, and one of the best Table d'Hotes in the Town. Arrangements at Moderate Prices
at the early and later part of the Season. Patronised by H.M. the Kmperor Frederic,
H.M. the Empress Victoria and H.I. H. Princess Victoria of Germany.
H Y E R E S
HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
ET
HOTEL DES ILES D'OR.
These large and beautiful Establishments are situated in the finest and most healthy
fart of the Town, surrounded by charming Garden', with Orange, Lemon and PalmTre«s.
Comm.inding magnificent views of the Sea, the Isl.s of Hyeres and the Mountains. Exten-
sive Dining Saloons, decorated with Pictures by one of the first country Painters of France,
Conversation Saloons with beautiful Winter-Garden, Smoking Rooms, Billiard Salioi.s,
Baths on every floor, combining the elegance and luxary of the most important and attrac-
tive Hotels in Europe. Moderate charges. N.B. Pension from 9 francs per day.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION.
E. WEBER, Proprietor
1850. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21
ILFRICIIMHK \mV.l.— Thoroughly Furni.h>;l, K.in!,,}..], .(• Ihcorattd.
250 Ajwrtnieiits, Nuble Diiiiii(? Kooiiis. Kle}?anl iJrawiiig l!ouiij», Large Iteailiiii?
K.BJiii, c»i«i.i..uii UUIiara i;ooiu(Twu THliUa), ('nmf"rl«M« Smoking H'jom. Ui immeiilal GruuiiJj e>teu.|-
iti;: t.i Ibu Sea, Eiglit Ij>wn loniiU CoiirU. 1«Mo .rll.M" Ilinn-r, Hi Br|i«rat« UUIm. frum 6 I" 8 oVl.j. k.
■I li.ro ii alU/^ln-a to the ll..ttl oiib of tli« Ijirg^^t Swimmiii;; llntlis ill K..k1bii.1 . «1«j lTi.»t« Il..t an . CM
.'<«<l aud Fresh Water liilha. D.juchi5, SlioWBr. *c. Kull I)t«Ti|.li>o TarllT of MAM<illli, Ilfrao.ml-!. North
Kovon. Thn allraclioi.8 of IlfracomU. aiiJ llio PUcoJ of Iiitari'st in tho niMKhU.urhool, i».iiil lo it u
the natural centr« to b« choM.u by the Tourial who desires to H-e with comfort all ih« Wnuile* of !'• art
anil Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There in n\to easy aivosa into -outh l)o»on and Co nwall.
7'oiiri«( Tieheli to IIJrai-omf>t fur Tio.. MoHlhi are iivu-l during; tlio Seanon at all [Tiori[ «l K.ilvT<y Suiion-.
ILFRACOMBE.
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
(OW Estahlislied.)
HAS recently been rebuilt with extra Bed Room accommodation. Com-
modioas Coffee Itoom and I-aillcs' Drawing lloom. Billiards.
Omnibus meets every Train.
TARIFF ON APPLICATION. CHARGES MODERATE.
CHAS. E. CLEMOW, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL - FJETVSIOIN,
JUNGFRAU.
F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor.
'l^'IIIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated
-*- in the centre of the HShewcg, and enjoys a splendid riew of the
Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its
delightful position, as well as for its comfortable accommodation.
TABLE D'HOTE AT 2 AND 6.30 O'CLOCK.
DINNERS A LA CARTE.
CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR
MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS.
OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS.
INTERLAKEN.
RUGEN HOTEL. JUNGFRAUBLICK.
I^'IKST-CLASS Hotel and riiision, 150 lUd.-i. Situatid in tli.- liciiltliii'st
jM>!-itl()ii. 30 metres liiKhcr tliuii Iiili-rUlirii, witli .•<|>leiulid View on llie Jiiiigfrau
fliid Sllvethoni, kc. f^tirrouuded by Terraces and Gardens. I'cnsiou from 10 to IB
francs, according to Room. Reduced I'rices in May, .June, and after I.'.lli .SejitmiNr.
Seaeon, May I o October. J. OKSCH-MOliI.EK. /'»o;-ii. (or.
.\ 1 ^ o proprietor of the Hotel St. Oeorge, at Miist;n)li;t Siiperii-iir. Algiers.
22
mlm:f:ay's iiANnr.ooK aovkltisflr.
Mmt,
NNSBRUCK.
-L ve
beautiful ami slicltcrcd bituation of Innsbruck remlers it a
k'ery agrcoabU; place of residence all the year round. In Spring as
well as in Auhimn it is especially to be recommended ns a stopping
HOTEL TYROL. place between the different
watering places. It is also
to bo recommended after a
sojourn at the seaside.
THREE
FIRST-CLASS
HOTELS.
Opiwsite the Railway Station.
CARL LANDSEE, Proprietor. —
INNSBRUCK is the centre from which many splendid
excursions can be made in every direction, and of any
length. Attrac-
tive walks in
the immediate
neighbourhood
of the town,
and the diftVr-
ent elevations,
render it a good
place for walk-
ing cures after
the system of
Dr. Oertel.
HOTEL DE LEUROPE.
JOHANN REINHART, Proprietor.
ARRANGE-
MENTS
MADE.
MODERATE
CHARGES.
POST
TELEGRAPH
OFFICES.
fiee from cold
ears, and
HOTEL ZUR GOLDENEN SONNE.
THE climate in "Winter, dry, strengthening, sunny, fiee
•winds and fogs, has attracted many visitors of late y
among those who have found
the greatest relief are weak,
convalescent, nervous, appe-
titelets and sleepless per-
!N.B. — University, Grammar.
Jlu^ic, and ither Schools. I'rivate
lessons of every kind are available.
EG that studies can be continued
and the education of chilJrcn
carried on.
CARL BEER, Proprietor.
1600.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVlKTISKK.
23
INTERLAKEN,
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
Magnificent First-class Family Hotel; the best
situated at Interlaken.
in
Q
W
W
o
o
r
<
>
O
Special arrangements made for a stay of some time.
Er>. R.XJCHTI, I^i-opi-ietoi-.
Ahn Proprhicr of "■ TIOTEL PES ASCLMSr Cainuf.
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL BEAU SITE" PENSION.
Rooms from 1 fr. 50 c. ; Dinners at 2 fr. 50 i;. ; IVnsion tr:>m U tr.
Excellent Cooking. Goo<l Wines. Fresli Milk and Wbcy. UiipiralleUil, most de'irab'.e
situation, with view of the Ulucitrs of the Jucgfrau, Motnch .irnl Krger.
Xo charfje for Outitibug to tite jiriitri'ital rroiitmiude^, In the K'tifi'iL
and ill tin Churches.
Open from APRIL. Omnibus at ths Station.
HIGHLY RECDMMENOED. ED. RUCHTI, iv./<w./...
KARLSRUHE.
HOTEL GERMANIA.
JitST SITUATED.
F I KM T • (' L A S M II 4> T K L .
Omnibus at the Station.
F. LKKIIS, I'rnpriftor.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
royal' VIcHrI a' HOTEL.
Mastiiiliccntly f^itu tuliii the Lower 1 -.■kc.
rutronlsoJ by H.U H. the I'rince of Wales,
II.U.H. tlie fluke ol Connaught, the prim i-
jial l;oyal Kaniilifs of Euroje, ami Ual.ug
Ameriran Families.
natiiced Tarilf during Winter .Vr".*.
LAUSANNE.
HOTEL and PENSION VICTORIA.
rj"'HK aljoTc lintel lias heen recently ;,'rcatly iiii;ir<>vetl, aivl tii{>p!i( <1 -Nitl.
-L tvciy modern roiiilorl. lloanl ami Lodging Irciii ti to i fis. Ueautiful ga:'lrii
Commanding ixteiisivc and charming vie«s.
liS. DESPLAND, Proprietor.
24
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
Hay,
LAUSANNE.
XlvJJLJCaJbi UrlJoJoUiM^
One of the very Best First-Class Hotels
of Switzerland.
BEAUTIFUL LARGE GARDEN & SHADED TERRACE.
FULL VIEW OF LAKE LEMAN FROM
EACH V7INDOW,
IN WINTER PENSION.
EMILE HITTER, Proprietor.
LE MANS.
€3- JEC, uAu zo' x» xxo^rzsx.
(Tonnerly HOTEL DIOT ET DE LA BOTTLE D'OR).
Magnificent Situatim. 30, RUE! DUMAS. C'nirorlable Bedrooms and Sitting
Rooms for Families and Xou ists. Salonj. Baths. Special Omnibus to tbe Station. English
spoken. j. CHANIEK, Proprietor.
LIMOGES.
GRAND HOTEL DE U P^iX.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSK. Specially re-
commended to Familie-! and Tourists.
Omnibus to Station. Engli^h spoken.
J. MOT, Proprietor.
LOCH LOMOND.
TARBET HOTEL
Is the most commodioua on the
Lake. Parties Boarded on Moderate
Terms.
A. H. M.4CPnERS0X, Proprietor.
LISBON.
UrJA^OAlNZA. HOTEL.
THIS First-Class well-known Family Hotel, lately renovated by the
Royal House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new I'roprietor, Victor C. Sassetti,
highly recommendable for Its large, airy, and Comfortable Apartments, commanding the
most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior
Cuisine, and carefully-selected AVines.
ROYAL
HOTEL.
THE above Fir=t-class Hottl is now under the lYoprietorship of JAMKS S. SHAW
(several years with Mr. Mehl, at Queen's Hotel, Manchester, and at County Hotel,
Carlisle) and is now second to none in Noith Wales for its comfort, catering, and lovely
situation. HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS.
1890. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25
TERMINUS of the OOTHARD
RAILWAY on LAGO MAGGIORE.
THE GRAND HOTEL
LOCARNO.
lit:ST STOVPISO I'l.ACK on the
ITALIA. \- LAKKS.
4 hrs. from Milan. 7 hrs. from
Genoa. 6 hrs. from Lucerne.
OPEN the whole }c,»r. Most luxurious and comfortable Iiome for all
the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patruiiized by the IJoyal Families of Kiirope.
Unrivallwi sitvialinn in the mildest and most constant cliniat'- of Kurupi- ; witliout snow,
wind or f'(;, but with pl'Mity of sunshine. Entirely adapted for 'winter
reridence. Open lire places, calorifferes and majolica stoves,
lioantiful walks and mountain excursions. English Church, lector, Society. Lift.
Private Steamer and Carrlag'-'s for visitors. Exquisite Cuisine. .Moderate barges.
Messrs. BALLI. Proprietors.
LONDON.
FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES.
Travellers may s;ive expenM and trouble by purchasine Foreign Books in
England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germanj or France.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE
have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :—
1. CLASSICAIi CATALOGUE. 11. NATURAL SCIENCE
2. THEOLOQICAL CATA- CATALOGUE. Mathematics,
LOOUE Astionomy, Physics, Chemistry,
3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. Technology.
4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 12. MEDICAL CATALOGUE.
6. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC Medicine, Surgery, and the DepcD-
CATALOGUE. dent Sciences.^
13. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Be-
6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE.
7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. „ , »,
8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. °"°^'y ^'^^'' ^^^^'' ^■
9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi. !*• FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU-
lecture. Painting, Illustrated Books. LARS. New Books, and New
10. NATURAL HISTORY PurcJiases.
CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 15. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU-
tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- LARS. New Books and Recent
matics, &c. Purchases.
AXY CATAIXXJUE SENT POST-FHEK FOK ONE STAMP.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Booke.
14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and
20, South Frederick Strekt. Kdinbhroh.
LONDON.
A .V TA 11 L ISIIKD 1 S 7 3 .
4, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, London, city ofKre : 3, George Yard, Lombard
St , London. Inileil States A'jniojfor sale ,:/ Chniues : 2, Wall St., New York.
CIRCULAR NOTES FOR PORKION TRAVEL.
Cheque Bank Cheques are larpely used in jdace of Circular Notes by TraT<ller8
on the Ciitiiii en', tlie Co'.i.iiles, the United States, and oil over the Wt.rld.
The Cheque Bank lias corresjxuKlents in all jiarts of the ^^■o^ld, by whom the
Chwiues are (ashed at the current rate of exchange wiihout di'duction.
Xore convenient than Circular Holes. Xo evidence of identity reqttirid.
Cheque Bank Cheques are well known to Hotel Keepers and generally accepted
by them as cash.
Cheque Bank Cheques will ala-^ be found very convenient for Foreign and Inl.ind
Postal Kemltlanc s.
26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
Fry
s
PURE
CONCENTRATED
Lancet. — "Pure, and very soluble."
Medical Tmes.—" Eminently suitable for Invalids."
Sir C. a. CAMERON, President Royal Colle,o;e of Surgeons,
Ireland. — "I have never tasted Cocoa that I
like so well." „ _ ,_
Half a tea-spoonful is sufficient to make a cup of most delicious Cocoa.
Be careful to ask for '' FKY'S PURE CONCENTBATED COCOA."
43 Prize Medals awarded to
J. S. FRY & SONS, Bristol, London & Sydney.
Di ft. I ». I f— ^- ^-^ i-v r-v ir^ A Pure Solution.
iNNFFrjRrjS For Acidity of the Stomach.
I I '<! I -I 1_ I vy I I 1^ V..^ YoT Heartburn and Headache.
M. -^ k. I r~ <-k I A F°'' Gout and Indigestion.
A l^ [SJ p X I A Safest Aperient for Delicate CoDstitnUons,
t-i\^ I '^ 1— W I r-l. Ladies, Children, and Infants.
DINNEFORD & CO., 180, New Bond Street, London.
Sold by Chemists throughout the World.
LUCERNE.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
PFYFFER; SEGESSER & Co., Proprietors.
OPEN ALL THE YEAR.
THIS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most
comfortable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lake, with the
finest Views. Every attention paid to Tourists.
A LIFT FOR THE USE OF VISITORS.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
Firsl-Class Uotel, Splendid Vieiv on the Lal-e and Mountains.
Propr'etor, F. T. STEFFEN.
1890.
:\irnRAY's haxdi'.ook ADVF.RTr-r.i;.
27
LUCERNE.
SCHWEIZERHOF ^"^ LUZERNERHOF,
First-Class Hotels.
IN THE BEST SITUATION on the LAKE and PROMENADE.
600 BEDS,
LUT AND ELECTRIC LIGHT W BOTH HOTELS.
ARRANGEMENT K.V rEXSIOy WITH niOrilACTKD SlAY O'-^^^'l-L'SIVE OK
JULY AND AUGUST).
SOHWEIZEKHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAE.
WITH OOOD WARIMIXa SYS'^K^r.
Proprietors, HAUSER BROTHERS.
LUCHON, BAGNERES DE, PYRENEES.
GRAND HOTEL RICHELIEU.
(Hotel dc S. M. Ic roi de IloUandc.)
200 Rooms, 10 Salons. Splendid viow.
Villa (Irauttiso, tj I ( t. ( Umiil.ua at all Trains LOUIS ESTRADE. Proprietor.
LUCERNE.
HOTEL DU RIGI.
Comfortable, pleasant bituation.
Op n from IGtli APRIL, tu Ctli OCTOBEl!.
LUXEMBOURG.
GRAND HOTEL BRASSEUR.
I'TKST-CL.VSS II r\V.{.. llislily noom-
mciiiUd for i's comfort ainl k .oil situalioii.
English ppukin. OiniilbuK at nil Trains.
!'.1:asskUI:. rroprlcl>r.
8S MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEHTISER. May,
LUGANO.
MONTE S. SALVATORE
RAILWAY COMPANY.
(15 Minutes from the Town.')
WIRE -ROPE -RAILWAY worked by Electricity.
(SYSTJEML AIIT.)
"ONLY A HALF HOUE'S JOURNEY."
CBKdlcut ^Ustaunmt 011 tlje fVulm,
Situated 2,925 feet above the sea.
MAGNIFICENT VIEW.
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
ROYAL CA8TLE FAMILY HOTEL
Patronised by the English and Continental Hoyal Families.
FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attrac-
tive. Table d'hote. Etading and Drawing Rooms. New
Smoking and Billiard Pavilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent
Views, an'l Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. Private Hotel and
Boarding House attached.
THOS. BAKEH, Proprietor.
LYONS.
HOTEL UNIYEES,
FACING PERRACHE STATION.
THE MOST COMFORTABLE.
First Class. Full Soutli.
Mrs. DUFOUR IS ENGLISH.
F
1800. MURRAY^ HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 29
LYONS.
GRAND HOTEL DE LYON.
PLACE DE LA BOURSE.
Fl RST-CLASS HOTEL.
MACON.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Five minutes' from the Station.
IRST-CLASS, and well situated, with view of Mont Blanc. Recom-
mended to Families. Interpreters. Carriages. Omnibus.
Mme. Vve. B&.TAILLARD. Proprietress.
of arriral ani) d ' '" " " ~ ' ' "* "■'
iiieAii, and lemii
MALAGA.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL
(ANCIEN H<)'JT:r. DK LONDRKS),
ALAMEDA 14
First-ftass RMjlishment. Sjthndid View, Full South. Charges Moderate. Inlerjvetert.
MALMO (SWEDEN).
HOTEL HORN.
FIR.ST-CLA.SS HOTEL, completely renewed, in the centre of tbe town, commanding a
fine view, opposite the Uailway and Tost OflRce. Comfortably furnished. Good
cooking. Ilcftauraiit and Cufe. Cold and warm ISaths. Private l>iniier<. Moderate
cburges. I. F. H. HORN, Proprietor.
MALMO (SWEDEN)!
I^ O O? X3 X« Xd X^ .A. 3ME Z3 X& .
I^'ULST-CLASS IKjTKL, llii' Largest and niu.-t CumfurUililc in tbe I'own, new and richly
L fitted up, lou roonis. Situate on the great square, in tbe vicinity of the Kailway
Stations and St/>umboat Landings. One of the most commodious, and respecting charges,
one of the cheapest liutels hi Scandinavia. Rooms from 1 krona, upwards, liaihs and
carriage in the hotel. Meals a la carte, at all hours. I'rompt and polite atiendaLce.
Dinner kept ready for passengers.
MARIENBAD.
HOTEL K L I N G E R.
riRST and Largest Hotel, with private houses, HALBMAYR'S HOUSE,
-*- MAXHOF No. 100, and the recently opened HOTEL KLINGER, late SUdt Dresden,
" connected with the Old House," most beautiful situation of the Spa, situate at the corner
of the Promenade on the Kreuzbrunnen and the Park, commanding a charming view.
Newly and elegantly furnished. 350 Rooms and SaUjons. Reading, Conversation, and
Smoking Rooms. Lift. Table d'hote and a la carte. Meals sent out Into private houses.
Curriarjee al the Ilutel. Omnibus at the Station.
In answer to several inquiries, the Proprietor begs to intimate that he does not keep
Touters, and therefore begs to warn Travellers against any false statements respecting his
Hotel being full, etc.
J. A. HALBMAYB. Proprietor.
MARIENBAD.
Fll;ST-CLASS llOUSK, imtroniscd by Knglisli. Kk-vati-d ponition, near llic Springs
and Bath E^tJlbli-hmeMs. Single Rooms and Family Apartments, furnUhed with
«very modern comfort and lu.xury. Carriages for K.xcurslon.". Omnibus at all Trains.
HAMMERSCHMID, Proprietor.
30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
MAYENCE.
XXC>"X^Z:X^ 333ES XZOX«X«.Al.I«'33X3.
WELL-KNOWN FIRST -Cf.ASS HOTEL. Tin/rough Comfort,
c.\celltnt Cooking, ('h'.ico Wines, at Moderatx; Cli:irgos. Since the rcmovul ol lli';
railway, the riiic?t anci IV'kI Situated Hotel in tlio To«n, afffirdinf? an open \iew of llio
river. Favourite and quiet t-topping place for excursions Into the neighbourliood Special
arrangements for Winter ah'iile. Opposit'' the landing place of the steam'Ts. Omnilms
niocts all trains. Proprietor: RUiJOLPH SEITiEl., Jor j.eurs it'inao'-r of this JMd.
MAYENCE.
RHINE HOTEL.
FIKST-CLASS Hotel. Finest Tositiou and Splendid View of the
llhine. Especially recommended to English and American Travellers. Rooms,
including Light and Attendance, from 2 francs 50 centimes. Omnibus at Station.
W. SCfllMMEL.
MENTONE. ilST CLASS HOTEL).
HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
THIS well-known ESTABLISHMENT is beautifully situated in the
best quarter of the Town, with a vast Garden, and affords every Knglish comfort.
Lawn Tennis Court Ascenseur. Lift.
G. ISNARD, Proprietor.
MILAN.
HOTEL DE ROME.
AD^IIRABLY situated, full South, on the Corso, a few steps from the Duomo, Scala,
and Galleries. This Hotel, coa.fortably furnished and fitted up with the greatest
care, is warmly recommended to English travellers for its comfort and moderate charges.
Branch House— PIAZZA FONTANA, 8 and lo.
BORELLA BROTHERS, Proprietors.
MO SCO W.
HOTEL SLAWIANSKY BAZAR.
THE LARGEST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL THE TOWN.
Near the Kremlin.
SPLENDID RESTAURANT, READING AND BATH ROOMS.
^ckphouf, JJost anb '^clegntp^h ©ffitccs in the house.
MUNICH.
WIMMER & CO,
OAI^IiSIRV OF FINE ARTS,
3, BRIENNER STREET,
Invite the Xobilily and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fixe Abts, containing an
Extensive Collection of
MODERN PAI NTINGS
by the best Munich Artists.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M»Ciiacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street,
E.G., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Baldwin Bros. & Co.,
53, Itroadway, New York.
180i>.
ML'iniAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEHTISER.
31
NEUHAUSEN-SCHAFFHAUSEN, Falls of the Rhine.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.
F. WEGENSTEIN, Proprietor.
i;^llIST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every comfort, in the best
J- jiosition opposit'.; the Falls of the Rhine, and Five minutes' walk
from Neuhausen Station.
NO GKATUITIES to the SERVANTS. 200 ROOMS.
Splendid View of tiie Rhinefails, the Castle of Laufen,
and the Swiss Alpine Chain.
FINE PARK AND GARDEN.
RAILWAY TICKETS ISSUED AT THE HOTEL.
Special arrangements for a stay of some time.
The English Church Service is at the Schweizerhof.
Omnihuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen.
By mrnns of El ctricity and Henpal Lights, and direrted from
the Schxceizohiif,
THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE ILLUMINATED
Isvcrv Nij^ht iliiriiig the Summer Season.
32
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
MUNICH.
SEDELMAIER & SCHULTZ,
OPTICIANS,
17, THEATlK£;Pv 3TT^ASS£^,
Near the THEA.TINER CHURCH.
Largest sdection of Optical goods in Munich. Specialities: Opera glasses. donMe
Field [glasses, rerspecUve--, Compasses, Allimeties, Pedometres, palent Eye glasses — the
best exibting. All Tourist's Instiuments.
Prices exceediiujly reduced.
NANTES.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
PLACE GRASLIN. VERY FINE.
FIRST-CLASS Hoi el. Entirely renovated. Large and Small Apart-
ments for Families. Sitting Rooms. Bedrooms from 2 fr. Table d'hote. Restaurant.
( mrtibus and Carriages. English spolen.
DOUET, Proprietor.
HOTEL
NUREMBERG.
GOLDEN
EAGLE.
FIRST-CLASPS HOTEL, well situated, opposite the Kriegerdenkraal,
newly re-built, contains 110 elegantly furnished Rooms and Saloons, and is much
frequented bj' English and American families. Arrangements made with Families and
Single persons. Baths in the house. Carr;age3. Omnibus to and from the Station.
L. SCHLENK, Proprietor.
OSTEND.
HOTEL DE LA PLAGE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FACING THE BATHING PLACE.
Open from the Ist June to 15th October. Highly recommended.
J. and O. THOMA, Proprietors.
HOTEL
PALERMO.
DE FRANCE.
FREQUEXTED by English and American families ; has many Minny rooms ; in the
healthiest position in Palermo, facing the beautiful Garden Garibaldi, Piazza Marina,
ne.ir the Botanical Garden and Villa Ginlia. First-rate Cuisine.
English and American Xews-papers. JIoderate Charges.
P. WEINEN.
HOTEL
PAU.
DE
FRANCE.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale, com-
mands the most splendid view of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining
to the English Club. .^ ^
GAKDEBES FRERES, Proprietors.
OSTEND.
MERTIAN'S
FIBST-CLASS
FAMILY HOTEL AUD
PENSION.
Close to the Sea and Kurtaal. Telephone.
PISA.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL
Clean. Great Attention.
RECOMMENDED.
1890.
MUKKAY'S HA.\L)BOC)F\ ADVERTISER.
X\
ORAN.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
F. GARCIN, rr..pr!<:l''y-
'"^^
PLACE D'ARMES BOULEVARD SEGUIIV and
PROMENADE DE L'ETANG.
WINTER QUAETER.S. Exceptional situation, with fine view of the
Sea and Environs ; 120 rooms and Nalot n.s. TjUIc d'liute. Reftaurant i la Carto.
Moderate Prices. Privat'' Ilot'ins. Reading Room. I'.nths and Hydropathy. Omnibus
to all the Trains and on tbo arrival of the Boats.
PAU.
GRAND HOTEL BEAU SEJOUR.
-^■'-^^^0^:
\*.y\''\M-
Ih.-
Jf'i.
FIRST-CLASS. Recommended for its Comfort. ! Incompnralili' po.siiion
for brnnfy of the Panornma. Apartmonts for Families, with Mfw onibrarlni!; the
Pyrenees. Excel lent Cooking and IrreproachaMe attrndanre. BOURDETTE, Proprietor.
' — The Drain.ape perfected tinder the most modem sy.stcm.
84 RlUKIiAY-S HANDBOOK ADVEItTlSER. May.
grand'hotel.
Moderate Charges.
W. GARBREOHT.
SPEAKS GOOD ENGLTSH.
PLYMOUTH.
Only Hotel with Sea View.
(ON THE HOE.)
Facing Sound. Breakwater, &c. Mail Steamers anchor in Bight. Public Rooms, and Sitting
Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor.
POITIERS.
GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE.— First-Class and recommended to
Families and Tourists for its comfort and good management. Tlie most central of
the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, I'refecture, Telegraph, Post OBRce, JIuseum, Historical
Monuments, and Promenades. Specialityof Fowls and truffled Pates of all sorts. Carriages
for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel.
ROBLIN-BOTTCHARDEATJ, Proprietor.
RAGATZ.
BATH AND CUEATIVE ESTABLISHMENT OF
EAG-ATZ-PF^FERS, SWITZEELAND.
(Warm Thermal Springs of 28— 30° E., same as Wildbad and Gastein.)
GRAND HOTEL QUELLENHOF
GRAND HOTEL HOF RAGATZ
Beautiful position. Large fine Parks. Walks of any altitude. Healthy
Climate. Bath Installations of highest perfection connected with both hotels
by covered ways. Station for Travellers going to and coming from Upper and
Lower Engadlne. Comfortable Carriages to all places, same Tarlf as in Coire.
Pension and Tourlst-Prlces very reasonable.
RENNES.
GRAND HOTEL.
JULIjIEN, Proprietor. GRIVOIS, Successor.
FIEST-CLASS, well recommended. English Spoken, and
English Newspapers. Omnibus at the Station.
RHEIMS.
HOTEL DU LION D'OR.
THE most aristocratic of the town, and the only one actually
in front of the Cathedral. Housemaids for Ladies. Yery nice Garden.
English sjJoJien.
HOTEL AND PENSION' RIGI-SCHEIDEGG.
'TERMINUS Station of the Rigi Kaltbad-Scheidegg Railway. Excel-
-L lently suited for Tourists and Pensioners. Pension by a stay of not less than four
days, 7 francs to 12 francs, Room included. Liberal treatment. View on
the Alps as beautiful as at Rigi Kulm. English Service. Lawn Tennis Grounds.
Dr. R. STIERLIN-HAUSER.
189". MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISEP. 35
ROME.
HOTEL ROYAL MAZZERI
Via Venti Settembre.
THIS New Hotel, opened in 1888, is situated
full South, on the Highest and Healthiest
part of Eome, near the English Embassy and
the Royal Palace. A short distance only from
the Railway Station.
ST. PETERSBURG.
Kept by E. RENAULT.
T)EST situation in the Town, Great Morskaiu, right opposite the
■^ Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Ncwski Prospokt.
Oklest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented,
especially by English and Americans. Elegant Heading Room, with
French, English, American, German, and Swedish I'apers. Greatly to bo
recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuigine. Dinners
1 r. 50 k. andSr. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles.
All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Batiis. Post and Telephone on
tlie Premises. The English Guide, Charles A. Kuntze, highly com-
mended.
f^ The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of lius^ia.
The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL DE
FRANCE*, belongs to the same Proprietor.
:iG
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
ST. PETERSBURG.
FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT.
A. CONTANT.
MOIKA 58.
lienoioned for its Wines
and Coolce.ry.
SPLENDID GAKDEN.
An Orchestra rerforms
during: Meals.
ST. GERVAIS-LESBAINS, VILLAGE
(Hte. SAVOIE.)
riOTJEL I>XJ ]>i:OIVT BL.A.1VC.
(2,4.50 feet above Sea level.)
Bracing air, best situated Hotel in place, near Post and Telegraph.
Lovely views, excursions, glaciers, &c.
English spoken.
A. CHAMBEIi. Proprietor.
SALISBURY.
THE WHITE HART HOTEL,
Nearly opposite the Cathedral. The LARGEST and PRINCIPAL HOTEL in the CITY.
fpniS old established First-CIass Hotel contains every accommodation for Families and Tourists. A Ladies'
1 Coffee Boom. BiliiarJ and Smoking Rooms and spacious Coffee Rooms for Oentlemen. Table d'Hilte
dailv, during the season, from 6.30 to 8.30 p.m., at separate tabic. Carriages and Hordes on Hire for
Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent Stabling, Loose Boxes, 4c. Tariff on application to
H. T. BOWES, Manager, rosling-Maaler lo Ber Mnjesly.
SALZBURG.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
OPPOSITE the Station. First-Class Hotel, surrounded by a large
Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. Pension : until the 15th of July
and after the 15lh of September, from 4 florins upwards; from the 15tb of July until the
15th of September, from 5.50 florins upwards. Lawn Tennis Grounds.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
IVIo derate
HYDBAULIC LIFT.
Cliarg"ess-
G. JUNG, Proprietor.
8AUMUR.
HOTEL BUDAN.
The only one on the banks of
the Loire.
SPLENDID VIEW.
SENS (Tonne).
GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS.
"I7IRST-CLASS. Situated near the Cathe-
1 dral and Promenades. Specially re-
commended to Families. English spoken.
Omnibus to Station.
LEMODTE-ATJDY, Proprietor.
SENDIG SCHANDAU,
Pension from 6 marks, everything included.
HOTELS AND PENSIONS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
1800. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37
Grand Hotel Britannique.
F. LEYH, Proprietor.
PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM,
And maiutains a liigh repiitatiou among the Aristocracy of
Europe.
SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN.
LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATHS.
Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church.
EZSTCB-XjISH: SI^OKUEHiT.
O^l.^rUtU^ AX KACIE AltniVAI..
GRAND HOTEl'dE UEUROPE.
First-class House, close to the Mineral Springs, Casino,
and Anglican Church.
FAMILY UOTEL. Ilia ILLY IlECOMMENDED.
HENRARD-RICHARD, Proprietor.
SPEZIA (RIVIER.\ DI L,EVANTE\
GRAND HOTEL et HOTEL ROYAL CROIX de MALTE.
1^"'IIlST-CLASy, lull soiitl), overlooking the Bay, view of the Carrarn
Mountains. Favourite winter resort. Lovely e.xcureious to Tortovcnere (Byron's
Grotto). S. Terenzo (.Sliclley'8 llouso). La Koce (Cornice Koail).
COATES & Co., Proprietors.
STRASBOURG.
llOTliJL l>'vVIV«LKTKl*llK.
1)EST-SITUATEU NKWLY IIEIHJILT FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
J) Near the Station and Cathedral. Clo.'je to the I'ost aud
Teleg;rai)h Oilice.s. IJalh.s. Moderate Ciiarges. lioouiB from 2 maiks,
light and alt<'ndanee iiududed. Ouinihua at tlie Station.
^ CH. MATHIS. Proprietor.
STRASBURG.
HOTEL NATIONAL.
fpilt; only one opposite llie Uiiilway .Station. New KlKSl'-CL.VSS IIOTKL, coinliiiKd
JL with e\cry Cimifort. Uruo ari'l Snmll AiuirtmmU f..r K»ii.ili..H uii.l .Slii^jln 0,.iitl..miM. UhiIii
iiDd Lift syM. Ill imiiiovcd. iteat CuUino. Mod«r*U) ciiar^-on. L. QSTERMANN, Proprietor.
Furmerly ilanager of the Ilutrl " Ville de Paris."
38
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKirriSf:R.
Maj,
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.
GRAND HOTEL.
THIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City,
between Charles the Xllth's Square and the National Museum, on
one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and
the Baltic.
The Koyal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on
the opposite side of the Harbour. The Koyal Opera and the Principal
Theatres are in close proximity.
The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views
of the City.
The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience,
and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most com-
fortable Hotels on the Continent.
The Building contains Four Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides
Dining Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, a Billiard Room,
a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Retiring Rooms, a Laundry, and other
accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts.
All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to
all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found
to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels.
Tlie Hotel liydbei'g'.
GrsTAF Adolf's Toiig.
THIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to Travel-
lers. It contains One Hundred and Fifty Sleeping Apartments.
The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer
every advantage to struugors visiting the Swedish Capital.
R. OADIER,
Proprietor of the Grand Hotel and the Hotel Bijdhenj.
1890. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 39
STOCKHOLM.
HOTEL COISTTII^EIN^TAL.
TTIHIS comfortable Hotel is silunlpd opposite the Central Ilailway Station and in the
_L Centre of the City, with 100 Elegant Apartments. G(kh1 Dining Koom and
Coffee Room. English Newspapers, F^nglish Attendan-e. Moderate Charm.-. iJ^iihs
Hot and Cold. -, -nAvnTm i> -i
(■. BAYOUiK Iropriftnr.
STUTTGART.
TS situated in the finest piirt of the Town, in tlie beautiful Place Royal,
-'- adjoining the Kuilway Station, near the I'ost Offce, the Theatre, the Iloyal (jardens,
opposite the Palace, and facing the Konigshan. This lintel will be found must comfortable
in every respect ; the Apartinints ari,- elegantly furnished, and suitable for Families or
Single Gentlemen. Table d'llflte at 1 and 5 o'clock. French and Knglibh New-ipapers.
<!Mi:. MAKyUAKKT, Proprietor.
SWEDEN.
Imperial Cjuarto, half bound, Morocco, £5 5«.
THE CHURCHES OF GOTTLAND,
15 Y
MAJOR ALFRED HEALES, F.S.A., F.R.S.L., Hon. A.R.I.B.A.
Dedicated by Special Permission to Hi? Majesty the King of Sweden and Norwaj'.
Illustrated by Twenty-seven Copyriglit Photograplis.
Issue strictly limited to 50 Copies.
London : ROWORTII & CO.. Limited, Newton Ptrcct, High Ilolborn, W.C.
T H U N (Switzerland).
HOTEL THUNERHOF.
A FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, one of the largest and moat comfortable in
Switzerland. The only one with a Lift in the place, ami especially adapted for a
long sejour. The Terrace of the Hotel, which has no rival in Switzeilaud, is worth a visit.
There is also an English Library.
Pension, during the -whole Season, by staying Five Days,
from 8 francs, everything included.
CH. STAEHLE,
Also Proprietor of the Hotel du Paradis at Cannes.
TOU LOUSE.
GRAND HOTEL DU MIDL
Patronized by the Duke of Norfolk and Due d'Aumale.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED OX THE PLACE DU CAPITOLE.
FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in France.
Frequented hij the hlijhcxt ChtKS of KniiUxh and Americtin TinviUers.
English spoken. Restaurant and Table dilute. liieh Reading Room
and Conversation Salon. "The Times" Newspaper.
EUO. PODRQUIKR. rnyprietor.
40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISP:!;. May,
TOURS.
GRAND HOTEL
DE L'UNIVERS.
ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE
STATION.
JEii.roi>eaii U^epixtation.
Highly recommended in all the French
and Foreign Guide Books.
EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor.
TOU RS.
HOTEL DEIoRDEAUX.
Proprietor, CLOVIS DELI G NO U.
Patronized by His Royal Highness
the Prince of Wales, and the
European Courts.
IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND
UPON THE BOULEVARD.
18!in. ML'KKAV'S HANDBOOK ADVKirriSKR. 41
TARRAGONA.
HOTEL DE PARIS.
|;ii;.Sl'-CI.ASS : fn-.ni'Ul.il by :.l,^;li^ll
1 and American Touil>is. hxti-llotit
accommoilaliun and every couveuience.
Italian jiroprietors.
PRIMATESTA FRATELUI.
TURIN.
Murray's Handbook for North
Italy, the Italian Lakes, &c., &c.
Maps and Hum. I'osl 800., lOi'.
.Jkhx MruBAY, Allx-marle Street.
VENICE.
HOTEL D'lTALIE
AND BAUER.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark's Square, on the
Grand Canal, facing tlie Church of St. Maria dclla Salute.
Patronised by English and Americans.
FIRST-RATE ATTENDANCE.
Celebrated for its Grand Restaurant d Vienna Beer
JULES GRiJNWALD, Proprietor.
HOTEL D'EUi^vOPE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
SITUATED IN THE BEST TOSITION ON THE GI{A^D CANAL.
Has just been repaired and greatly improved. New large Dining
Puiom on the Ground Floor overluokiug the Graiul Canal.
SMOKING AND UKADING llOOMS. BATHS.
Patronised by the most distinguished Families.
llYDnAULIC LIFT.
MARSEILLE BROTHERS, Proprietors.
GKANJ) HOTTrbK LOXDRES
and HOTEL ROYAL. DBS DEUX TOURS.
rpiIK ONLY KmST-fI..\S.S IIUTKI, IN VKKONA, In tlir cciiire of the Ti.wn. Croat
-»• comfort ami nuKleriiti' tliarges. Knglisli CUurcli Service in tlio lli«tol. All Laiiguagcd
spoken. Omnibus at tho Stjti..iis. Iliglily rccomnionJetl.
A. CERESA, Proprietor. G. CAVESTRI, Manager.
42
JIUKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKKI JSKK.
May,
VICHY
GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEUES, Situato.l in the Park.—
Thia magnificent Hotel ia now the first in the town. It is roanfii^ed in the ?ame ptyle as the largest
and best hotels on the Ck)ntinent. By its exceptional sitnation, the house preseuta three fronts, from which
the most beantifal views are to be had ; and from its balconies is heard twice a day the excellent Band
of the Casino. The management of its large and email apartments is very comfortable. Every room has a
Dressing Itoom. Special wire going from all apartments to the private servant-i' rooms. Beautiful
Reading, Drawing, and Smoking Rooms. Billiard Tables, Englij^b spol^en. Omnibus of the Hotel at all
Trains. The Hotel Is open from the 15lh of April, Post and Telegraph Offices adjoining the Hotel.
ROUBEATJ, Proprietor.
VICHY.
GRAND HOTEL DTJ PARC,
aiicl GmA]VD HOTEL.
THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Bathe,
Springs, and Casino.
PRIVATE PAVILION FOR FAMILIES.
GERMOT, Proprietor.
HOTEL AECHDUEE CHARLES,
KARNTHNERSTRASSE (the favourite Street).
ONE OF THE MOST RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTELS,
with good Restaurant. English cooking in the House. Batli Rooms.
Reading Rooms, etc.
Pension. Prices Moderate.
r>. SMITH, Proprietor.
1890.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK Ai>vi:inisi;i;.
43
VIENNA.
J. & L. LOBMEYR,
61ass lllamifacturcrs,
Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria,
No. 11. KARNTIINERSTRASSE.
The most extevsive Establishment for BOHEMIAN CRYSTAL,
FANCY GLASS, and Chandeliers.
Every variety of GIass for Household use, Ornament, and in Art
Workmanship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-G lasses.
Chandeliers, Candelabra?, in Crystal and Bronze.
IiABQE SHOW-ROOMS UPSTAIRS.
The prices are fixed, and are very moderate. — English is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, No. 38,
Queen Street, Cannon Street, B.C., Loudon, will transmit all orders with
the greatest care and attention.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL, PKATERSTEASSE.
F
300 ROOMS.
lUST-CLASS. CocxIFood; GarJc-n ; Hestuurant ; Situated on the Danube. Visited
by the Ministers and Members of rarliauietit. A nice FroLt Room from li gulden.
CH. SCHMITT, Manag-er, formerly at the Clarence Hotel, Manchester.
VIENNA.
OppnsiU the Imperial ati'l liotjal Opera Hi-ttfe.
AIOST elegant and frequented quarter of
Jl the Capital. Arrangements made for
Pension. Baths on all floors. Hydraulic
Lift. First Restaurant In Austro-Hun^-ary.
Ennllsh Cooking.
VIENNA.
Murray's Handbook for Southern
Germany, Austria-Hungary, &c.
Nexa Edition. In two mrtt. Pott 8vn., 12*.
Joii.N Mli;i;av, Albemarle Street.
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL BELLE YUE.
anniS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL is situatcl in
the finest part of "Wiesbaden, ami patronized by Their Royal
IIii;lines8PS the I'rinuc and I'rinccss of Waie.s, and by Roynl Ennui los
of several Courts. Has just been Repnircd and greatly Improved. New
elegant Dining Room. New Smoking and Reading Rooms, with a
beautiful Garden.
I'oiiMioii. lliUli. l»Bi<M'<* :?l«d<'rato.
VICTOR KLEEBLATT, Vr-q^vutor.
44 MUlillAY'S HANDliOOK ADVEKTISEK. May,
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL AND BADHAUS VICTORIA.
NEW MANAGEMENT.
Ii^IR.ST- CLASS IIOTEF;, bciuitifully Hitiiatod opi)OHite tlio Stations.
Entirely renovated. I'rivate JMiuertil Sprint;. I'unsioD all the vear
round. Hydraulic Lift. SCHWEISGUTH BKOS., Proprietors.
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU.
(nASSACKU IIOF.)
Messrs. GOETZ BROTHERS, Proprietors.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the
Curbaus, Colonnades, Parks, and ne.st the Theatre. Splendid Dining and Reading
Kooms. Table d'Hote at Oue and five o'clock. Mineral Batbs of Own Uot Spring.
HOTEL VILLA NASSAU.
Annexe of the Hotel df, Nassau. Proprietors also Jlcssrs. Goetz Bbothebs.
CINEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modern Comfort, in
-L beautiful situation next the Hot Springs, Theatre, Curhaus, Colonnades, etc.
WIESBADEN.
ROSE HOTET. AND BATH HOUSE.
SPLENDID First-Class Establishment, smrounded by its own large
Gardens, best situation, opposite the Promenades and the Park. An elegant Bath-
House attached, supplied with Mineral Water direct from the principal hot spring
(the Koehbrunnen). Drawing, Reading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Table d'H6te at
One and Six o'clock. Hydraulic Lift.
H. HAEFFNEB.
WILDBAD.
HOTEL KLUMPP,
Formerly HOTEL DE L'OTJBS.
Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor.
THIS First-Class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed Rooms, with a separate
Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking
Siloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining Room ; an artificial Garden over the
river ; is beautifully situated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings
and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the
New Colonnade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good
Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel.
Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers d la carte.
Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for
the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to
and from each Train. Elevators to every floor. Fiue Private Can-iages when
requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Reduced prices for Rooms in
the months of May, September and October.
EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION.
180'».
MUK1:AY'S HANDbOOK ADVEKTiStH.
4.-S
ZURICH
HOTEL BAUR AU LAC.
FIRST- CLASS HOTEL. BEST SITUATION.
BEAUTIFUL GARDEN. HYDRAULIC LIFT.
ELECTRIC LlirHT IN EVERY ROitM.
PATRONISED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES.
Not to be confounded •wdth Hotel Baiir (in the Town).
Proprietor, C. KRACHT.
FRENCH, GERMAN, ITALIAN.
DR. WM. SMIT
FRENCH
French Principia, Part I.
A First French Course, corvtaining
Grammar, Dclectn?, Exercisos, with
Vocabularies, ami materials for French
Conversation. (202 pp.') 12mo. i.s. 6rf.
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A Reading l!ofik, containing Fables,
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(376 pp.) 12mo. 4s. tiJ.
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ENGLISH CATHEDRALS.
iNDBOOK — SOUTHERN CATHEUliALS — Winchester, Salisbury,
Exeter, Wells, Boc-HEaTER, Canterbury, Cuicuester, and St. Albans. With
130 lUustrationa. 2 vols. Crown hva 3iJ«,
•,* St. Albans may be had separately. 6«,
\NDBOOK— EASTERN CATHEDRALS— Oxforo, rETF.RBOHOucH, Ely.
Norwich, and Lincoln. With 9u lUustratioiia. Cmwn Svo. 21».
ANDBOOK— WESTEIiN CATHEDRALS— Bristol, Glouce-stku, HEut-
roRD, Worcester, and Lichfield. With 50 Illustr.itions. Crown Svo. 16<.
INDBOOK— NORTHERN CATHEDRALS— York, Rii-on, Durham. Car-
LISLE, Chester, AND Manciu^ter. WithOO lUuAtratii'Ua. Orowu Svo. 2 vola. -JU.
iNDBOOK— WELSH CATHEDRALS— Llandaff, St. DAViu'a, Bangor,
AND St. Abapb's. Vith Illustrations. Cri.wn 8to. 15*.
' NDBOOK-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Woodcuta. Crown Svo. lOs. 6d.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
April, 1890.