I I 11 ,GUIDe:B o. tsuak Ww C-^S^J (i'men Agin' Derrymen, And Munster agin' Creation ! Wirrasthrue ! "lis a pity we aren't a nation ! — Fuller. TWENTY-FOURTH EDITION LONDON ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1906 REVISED AND BROUGHT UP TO DATE BY R. T. LANG. March 1906. The Editor will he glad to receive any notes or corrections from, Tourists vsing this Guide-hook. Comnivnications to be addressed tothe PuhUfh-'ri:. CONTENTS PAGE Dublin 1 Principal Sights . 5 "Walks through Dublin 19 Excursions from Dublin . 31 Howth 33 Malahide 37 Swords, Lusk, etc. 39 Drogheda 39 The Boyne .... 40 Monasterboice .... 41 Mellifont, Dowth, New Grange, Slane , Ti-ii n, etc . 42-44 Tara 45 Kells 47 Kingstown .... 48 Dalkey, Killiney 49 Poulaphuca 49 Bray 50 Excursions from Bray 51 The Dargle .... 51 Powergcourt .... 52 Loughs Bray, Tay, etc. 54 Roundwood, etc. 55 Devil's Glen 56 Oleudalough 58 Vales of Clara, Ovoca, etc. 62, 63 Wooden Bridge .... 65 2066179 IV CONTENTS A\'ii.'klo\v . Glemnalure t,Dninigoff^ Lugnaquilla Arklow County "Wexford Emiiscorthj', etc. Wexford .... New Ross . Inistioge Railway Itineraries : I. Dublin to Cork II. Kildare to Watcrford III. Limerick Junction to Water Dublin to Cork (G.S.AV.R.) . Newbridge; Kildare . Maryborough Roscrea .... Thurles ; Holy Cross . Caihel .... Limerick Junction, Buttevant Mallow .... Cork Queenstown Harbour . Passage, Queenstown. Haulbowline, Crosshaven . Excursions from Cork Rostellan and Cloyne Blarney .... Youghal .... The Blackwater Cajjpoquin : Moiint Melleray Lismore .... Fermoy .... Limerick Junction to Waterford ford CONTEN TS V PikOE Mitchelstown 128 Clonmel .... 129 Waterford .... 131 To Waterford from Dublin 133 Eilkenny .... 134 Jerpoint .... 137 Cork to Killarney — (1) Direct Route 138 (2) " Prince of Wales " Route to Killarney 139 Bandon 140 Bantry .... 142 Glengariflfe 144 Castletown Berehaven 145 Kenmare .... 146 (3) Macroom Route to Killarney 148 Killarney .... 150 Gap of Dunloe and the Lakes 151-163 Muckross Abbey 163 Mangerton 164 The Reeks 165 Killarney to Valentia, Waterville and Parkuasilla 165 169 Railway Itinerary, Galway from Dublin . 172 Limerick 176 Limerick to Kilrush, Kilkee, etc. 182 ,, Castleconnell, Killaloe, etc. 185 ,, Galway (by Rail) 191 Dublin to Galway . 193 MuUingar. 194 Athlone .... 195 Lissoy .... 197 Clonmacnois .... 199 Ballinasloe 202 Athenry .... 203 Galway 205 vi CONTENTS Galway Bay Aran Isles .... Galway to Li.sdoonvarna, Moher Clill s, au( i Kilkee Connemara .... I. Galway to Clifden (by Rail) . Recess .... Ballynahinch Clifden .... Clifden to Westport . Letterfrack Leenane .... Delphi .... Westport Croagh Patrick . Westport to Acliill Island Achill II. Galway to Clifden (by Corrib) Lough Corrib Cong Lough Mask Dublin to Westport by Athloue Westport to Sligo Ballina .... Ballysodare Sligo Glencar .... Knocknarea Bundoran Inismurray .... Belleek .... Bally.shanuoii Sligo to Longford Lough Erne District . Clones CONTENTS Vll Newtown Butler Enuiskillen .... Lower Lough Erne Upper Lougli Erne . Railway Itinerary, Belfast from Dublin B»lfast Excursions from Belfast Armagh .... Dundalk .... Rostrevor .... Greenore .... Downpatrick Newcastle .... Slieve Donard Bfoody Bridge . To the Giant's Causeway — (1) By Rail Carrickfergus Antrim .... Lough Neagh Coleraine .... Portrusli .... Dunluce Castle . The Giant's Causeway To the Giant's Causeway — (2) By Coast Lame .... Cushendall Ballycastle. Enniskillen to the Giant's Causeway Londonderry .... Excursions from Londonderry Donegal Highlands . (a) From tl^e South ; from Enniskillen, Straban^ Letterkenny ^ Donegal Town . viii CONTENTS PAGE The Donegal Coast Tour 345 Killybcgs . . 347 Carrick . 348 Slieve League . 348 Glenties . 353 Gartan Lougli . 354 Dungloe . 357 Gweedore . . 359 Errigal . 359 Dunfanaghy . 362 Horn Head, Muckish, etc. . 362 Rosapenna . . 365 Portsalon . . 367 Ratlimullen . 368 Buncraua . . 370 Slieve Snacht . 370 Inishowen . . . 371 (J) From the North ; from Lone ondu iry . . 372 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS Ireland, Sketch Map, and Index Maps Dublin (Plan) . Dublin Bay Environs of Dublin I. Dublin to Arklow Glendalough (Plan) II. Wicklow and Wexford , Cork (Plan) St. Finn Barr's Cathedral III. Queenstown Harbour Blarney District IV. Glengariffe and Kenmare V. Killarney VI. Killarney and Waterville Limerick (Plan) VII. Clare and Galway VIII. Lehinch, Moher Cliffs, etc. IX. Connemara, West X. Lough Corrib XI. Connemara, East XII. Lough Erne and Sligo Lough Erne, Sketch Maps Belfast Town (Plan) . Armagh Cathedral (Plan) XIII. Mourne Mountains XIV. Giant's Causeway to Sectional Inside front cover To face page 1 page 31 To face page 31 50 59 66 103 page 107 To face page 114 page 118 To face page 145 150 170 176 192 214 240 236 223 246 pages 256, 257 To face page 270 272 292 314 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS Londonderry (Plan) To face page Z22 XV. Antrim and Down (N.E. Coast) . ,, 328 XVL Donegal Highlands .,364 XYIT. Lough Swilly District .... ,,370 XVI IL Inishowen and Lough Foyle ... ,, 372 General Map of Ireland in pocket at end of book. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Dublin : O'Connell Bridge and Sackv die Street Frontispiece Dublin : St. Patrick's Cathedral . Facing page 12 Howth and Ireland's Eye . 34 Kingstown .... 48 Glendalongh .... 58 Cork : Patrick Street 104 Blarney Castle . 118 River Blackwater, Lismore 122 Kilkenny : St. Canice's Cathedral 136 Gap of Dunloe .... 154 iluckross Abbey 164 Killaloe 188 A Galway Fair . 202 The Twelve Bens 218 Clifden . 222 A Bowley House, Achiil 230 The Seal Caves, Achiil 234 Belfast : High Street . 264 Giant's Causeway 308 Londonderry 330 Potato-Digging . 344 Cottage Industries, Donegal 352 Turf-Cutting in Donegal 360 APPROACHES The hours of passage given below are of course only approximate. The lowest saloon fares for the single journey are alone quoted. For further details, see the sailings bills of the different Companies or the useful list of steamers at the end of "Bradshaw." 1. To Dublin and District Horn's of Pass- Single Route. Steamer Company. Sailings. Saloon i Fare. age. Holyhead to Kingstown . n City of Dublin Steam Packet 2daUy 7s. 6d. Holyhead to Dublin (N. 4i L.N.W.B. Several | 4s. Wall) daily (3rd ord.) 5s. (exp.) Liverpool to Dublin 8 City of Dublin Steam Packet, and others 2 daily i 13s. 6d. Glasgow to Dublin . Burns (Royal Mail), via Belfast 2 dally 25s. Laird Line Daily i 13s. 6d. Duke Line 4 a week ; 13s. 6d. Bristol to Dublin 24 Bristol Steam Navi- gation Laird Line 1 a week \ 10s. Heysham to Dublin . 9 Daily 12s. 6d. London to Dublin 3 days British and Irish Steam Packet Company Ltd., 19 Leadenhall Street, B.C. 2 a week 26s. Portsmouth to Dublin 56 B. & LS.P. Co., 10 Broad Street 2 a week 24s. 6d. Southampton to Dublin 50 B. & I.S.P. Co., S Gloucester Square 2 a week 24s. 6d. Plymouth to Dublin . 30 B. & I.S.P. Co., Mill- bav Pier 2 a week 20s. Falmouth to Dublin . 22 B. & LS.P. Co., Market Street 2 a week 18s. Silloth to Dublin 12 R. Wilson, Silloth . 2 a week 10s. APPROACHES 2. To South AND West Ireland Hours of Pass- Single Route. steamer Company. Sailings. Saloon Fare. age. Liverpool to Cork . 19 City of Cork Steam Packet 3 a week 17s. 6d. Liverpool to Waterford . 14* Waterford Steam- ships Great Western Rly. 3 a week 158. Fishguard to Rosslare 3 2 daily Bristol to Cork •20 City of Cork Steam Packet 15s." London to Waterford Clyde Shippiii'.; Co., 138 Liadenhall St. 1 a week 22.S. 6d Bristol to Waterford 14 Waterford Steam- ship City of Cork Steam ) 2 a week 158. New Milford to Cork 10 Packet 3 a week 153. Great Western Rly. ) Glasgow to Sligo Laird Line . ' . 2 a week 12s. 6d. New Milford to Water- ford 4 Great Western Rly. Daily Glasgow to Waterford . 28 Clyde Shipping Co., 21 Carlton Place 2 a week 178. 6d. „ Cork . 30 Clyde Shipping Co., 21 Carlton Place 2 a week 17s. 6d. Bristol to Wexford Waterford Steain- sliip 1 a week 15s. London Southampton |- to Cork South Coast ) City of Cork Steam Packet 1 a week 20s. (Lond.) Liverpool to Westport Laird Line 1 a week 12s. Od. ( to Ballina -v Glasgow/ and I Westport ■ } Alternate Saturdays 12s. 6d. 3. To North Ireland Hours Route. of Pass- steamer Company. Sailings. Single Saloon age. Fare. LivLTpuol to Belfast Vi Belfast Steamship . Daily 12s. 6d. n M 10 J. J. Mack and Sons 2 a week Barrow to Belfast . n James Little, Bar- row-on-Fumess Daily 128. 6d. Fleetwood to Bellast Lancashire & York- shire and London & North-Western Joint Railways Daily 7s. 6d. Fleetwood to Londonderry u Do. Daily 1 Oloiigow to Belfast . n Burns' (Royal Mail) Steatiiship 2 daily 128. 6d. Cardiir to Belfast . Wm. Sloan and Co. 1 a week 203. Swansea to Belfast . Do. 1 a week 208. APPROACHES 3. To North Ireland — Continued. XIU Hours of Pass- Single j Route. Steamer Company. Sailings. Saloon Fare. age. Holyhead to Greenore . 5 London and North- i Daily i 7s. 6d. western Rly. Ardiossau to Belfast 5 Burns' (Royal Mail) ' Dally 9s. Steamship i Midland Railway 2 daily ( ^^I^^^^' (Northern Counties summer-< r^^^„'^•„ Stranraer to Lame . Committee) months (:-VT6d: London to Belfast Clyde Shipping 2 a week ; 30s. (LeadenhallSt.,E.C.) Bristol to Belfast W. Sloan and Co., Glasgow 2 a week 20s. return Glasgow to London- 12 Burns' (Royal Mail) 2 a week 12s. 6d. derry Steamship Glasgow to London- 12 Laird 4 a week 12s. 6d. derry Glasgow to Portrush . II ... 2 a week lis. ,, ,, Coleraine . ,, ... 2 a week 10s. » „ Sligo . ... 2 a week 123. 6d. Heysham to London- ... 2 a week 12s. 6d. derry 4. Round the Coast The steamers of the Clyde Shipping Co. (Leadeahall Street, E.G.) and the Laird Line (Robertson Street, Glasgow) make, during the season, a series of coasting trips along the Northern and Western Coasts of Ireland. INTRODUCTION HOTELS If "commercial" Ireland has aiij' general ambition to-day, it is, we take it, to become the holiday field ol' a large section of the British public. If this be so, — and there are many evi- dences of it, — then undoubtedly its first consideration in this direction must be the improvement in the accommodation of its Hotels and Lodgings for tourists. Great cftbrts have indeed been made during the last few years, with most happy results. Outside Dublin, Belfast, Sligo and other towns the railway companies are in the van of the matter, and the hotels they have established at such centres as Newcastle in Down, Port- rush, and several of the favourite resorts in Kerry and Conne- mara, are striking marks of the progress made. Numbers of the new establishments are furnished and managed in a most praiseworthy manner— some are quite luxurious. Indirectly, also, their example has undoubtedly resulted in a general advance all along the line, and has certainly given to many a che] and a waiter of the smaller hostelries professional ideals undreamt of in the last generation. A considerable proportion of these new hotels, however, are intended for the wealthier classes, and there is still a wide field open to enterprising Irishmen in many districts who will take up with greater thoroughness the eflicient management of the smaller hotels still existing, and the catering for the less luxurious section of the middle classes. The i)oint on which the touribt resorts of Ireland sutfer most by co'iipari.-^on with the corresponding parts of Great Brit-ain is probably their supply of private lodgings. INTRODUCTION XV TRAVELLINQ In the first half of the 19th century, to go no farther back, the tourist was lucky whose coach, under the escort of armed guards, could reach Limerick — a distance of 129 miles — in twelve hours after leaving Dublin. The Great Southern Railway Express will now carry him — together with, if he will, the comforting contents of a hot luncheon basket — over the same journey in 3 hours and 20 minutes, twice a day. Here is progress indeed ; but what of the "American Express" on the same line, which leaves Dublin on Thursday mornings soon after 6 and reaches Cork — a distance of 165J miles — in less than four hours. Nor are modern railway improvements to be met with only in the south ; the other great Companies, the Midland G.W., the Great Northern, the Belfast and Northern Counties, the Waterford and Limerick, and the Dublin and Wexford are all hurrying their expresses and lowering their fares. The cheapness of the Irish railway and steamer travelling is becoming remarkable. At the present moment, indeed, the country olt'ers the English holiday- seeker of slender means the most attractive facilities for travelling to be found in Western Europe. Two instances taken at random from the Tourist Programme will convince the most sceptical :— London [vid Kingstowu and G. Southern Railway) to Kil- larney ; thence to Valentia Harbour, and by coach round the Waterville Promontory, and back. Return fare, third class and steamer saloon, including coach and driver's fee, £3 : 17s. London {vid Fleetwood or Liverpool and B. and N, Co. Rail- way) to Portrush and back. Return fare, third class and steamer saloon, £2 : 12 : 3. Tours. — Our experience is that most tourists consider the question of railway facilities and railway fares the all-important one in making out their tours ; and we shall therefore only offer a few words of advice on this subject. Read our remarks on the scenery or fishing districts (pp. xvii, xviii) ; then consult the season's programme of the Railway Companies which cover your selected districts, or apply to Messrs. Cook ; and "combine the information." The Tourist Programme published annually by each of the principal English railways will give return-ticket fares from all chief stations in England to all tourist resorts in Ireland, and xvi INTRODUCTION descriptions of circular tours. Similar programmes are published by the leading railways of Ireland {see Bradshaw), giving particulars of all circular tours in detail. Messrs. T. Cook and Son (Ludgate Circus, E.C.) publish an annual paraphet giving full particulars of all the various tonrs ■which they arrange. "We can supply tickets," they say in their Introduction, " for any tour that the requirements of our clients may demand." Time in Dublin, it should be observed, is 25 minutes later than in Greenwich, and Dublin time is adopted by all Irish stations. Distances also are liable to upset your calculations in a most unpleasant manner unless you remember that it generally takes 11 Irish miles to make 14 English ; the railway companies, however, use the English measurement. The Irish peasant, especially in the west, is as incapable of measuring distances as of telling his right hand from his left ; both are equally im- possible to him. Experientia docet. Never, therefore, ask, " How far is it ? " but if hard driven for some information, ask u-hat time the journey will take. For most Pats go to market and the fair, many go to church, and some nowadays, even in Donegal, catch a train. Travelling by car is very cheap. For the long cars there are special fares, but the common rate of charges by private car is 6d. a mile for one, and about Is. a mile for four — without the jarvey's tip. CYCLING The roads of Southern Ireland, especially in the S.W. corner of the country, are the happiest for the cyclist. In County Kerry the surface through many miles of the most important Bcenery is practically perfect. To 8upj)ort this high praise we need here only quote as typical a road as that between Glen- gariffe and Killarney, — the finest road of its length which we have ever had the pleasure to travel upon. lu Connemara wc have found the surface generally excellent ; INTRODUCTION xvii and in Donegal also there is plenty of i^ally good ground for the cyclist. In all these western counties, however, especially along the coast routes of Oonnemara and Donegal, the wheelman will have to keep a look-out for strong west winds. He will find that not only does the force of the prevailing wind from the Atlantic compel him often to modify the direction of his tour, but that occasionally it is so strong that he will have to wait its pleasure, give his machine an "easy," and exercise his patience instead. Beside these three districts named there is pleasant cycling to be had in the neighbourhood of Lough Erne, around Sligo, in County Down, and along the Antrim coast. In concluding this brief note for the cyclist, we would urge with emphasis one bit of advice. Throughout the whole western coast always arrange the tour so as to travel as much as possible from south to north. Cyclists who have made the error of riding, for example, from Killarney southwards to Glen- gariffe and Bantry, have confessed to the writer their mistake with bitter regret. Mr. Mecredy speaks well of the roads around the Westiiieath Lakes, and of those in County Kildare north of the Curragh and Carlow Junction. For further details and many interesting suggestions the cyclist should get Jlr. Mecredy's excellent little Road Book of Ireland, No. 1 for the South, and No. 2 for the North {Irish Cyclist Office, 34 Lower Abbey Street, Dublin). SCENERY The three principal scenery districts are undoubtedly County Kerry, including the country round Killarney and the finest parts of the Waterville Promontory ; Connemara, with its de- lightful Kylemore, Letterfrack, and Killary ; and Donegal, which boasts of such rare holiday grounds as Carrick, Gweedore, and Lough Swilly. By this, however, we do not for a moment mean that charming scenery cannot be found elsewhere. Lough Gill in Sligo, Achill Island, the Glens of Antrim, the slopes of Slieve Donard in Down, Killiney Hill near Bray, Lough Tay with the always popular Dargle, Powerscourt, and Glendalough in County Wicklow, to say nothing of many other beauty spots — these all deserve high praise. In many a bay, and on many a headland of the north and south coasts, or along the little- b xviii INTRODUCTION kuowu dills of sea-beat Mayo, the tourist will find much to delight and charm. But it must be allowed that the claims of the Emerald Isle to a high position among the scenery districts of the British Isles rest ultimately upon the merits of the most beautiful spots in Donegal, Connemara, and Kerry, and par- ticularly in the two latter. The scenery-hunter will therefore give first preference to the coast-line, for, as has been pointed out, much that Ireland possesses of picturesque beauty is to be found on or in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the seaboard, if we except some river scenery on the Nore or the Blackwater, and a part of Lough Erne. The very heart, indeed, of this island, which has no backbone and no geographical centre, is frequently a waste of bog, where mud -cabins as black as the peat in the midst of which they rise are rare objects. Taking the country all round, the climate will be found moister and warmer than that of England. Moister distinctly, for "the rainfall for the whole island averages 36 inches," whilst the same for England is only 30 inches. Erin consequently holds its own in this respect among all the countries of Europe ; no other is so abundantly supplied with rain. The downpour off the west coast is so great indeed at certain seasons that occasionally the neighbouring sea "becomes covered with a thick layer of fresh water " (Forbes). On page 337 will be found a special note on the general characteristics of Donegal, and another on the chief features of Connemara is given on pages 215, 216. FISHING "The climate of Ireland," says Major T. B. Traherne, "is milder than that of any other part of the kingdom. The tem- perature of the water is consequently much higher than in either England or Scotland, and many newly-run salmon will be found in early sjiring in the upper waters of Irish rivers where obstruc- tions exist. The majority of them, however, seem to object to face an obstruction until about the month of Ajiril, when the w(!atlier gets warm. In Irish rivers, where the temperature is generally high for the time of year, spring salmon will, on INTRODUCTION xix leaving the sea, make for the lakes as quickly as possible if there be no obstruction." ^ During recent years salmon have been scarce, a result prob- ably of the state of the climate in the west. The last heat-wave seems to have passed over Ireland and Scotland in 1865, and, in the opinion of an old Fishing-rod,* "the salmon scarcity is only in compliance with the ordained circles of plenty and scarcity." Mackerel, again, are now eating up the food in shoals ofif the west coast ; but what will you have when they go ? — the harvest of salmon. "Let the mackerel skedaddle," writes the same sportsman, ' ' and when the salmon have food they will come back. This is not theory ; it is founded on the facts that are recorded in the Annals of the Four Masters ! " A third cause is of a less speculative nature. "We refer to the use of "cross lines." Efforts to suppress it have aroused unexpected difficulties. In the western wilds this is not only an old-established custom of the peasants, but an important means of obtaining food. Suppression therefore spells suffering to hundreds of Irishmen and their families. Many, on the other hand, point to its disastrous effects upon the sport of the angling holiday-maker, and continue to cry aloud their griev- ance.^ The best time of year for Irish fishing — at least as regards salmon and trout — is without doubt the early season from April to the end of June ; and we reluctantly advise those parents whose holidays might be timed by the closing of the schools to be guided by Mr. Ohokuondeley Pennell's experience, that "throughout Scotland, Ireland, and Wales fishing is worst in August." The principal fish are, of course, salmon and trout. Among the latter the white or sea trout is common, and rarer kinds may be met with in the Boddagh of Loughs Neagh, Mask, Melvin, Erne, and Corrib, The famous gillaroo is described elsewhere (p. xxi). Grayling are as rare in Ireland as in Scotland. 1 See Fishing, in Badminton Library. 2 G. P. Kinahan. * To the same evil in another form is undoubtedly due, in a great degree, the fact that sportsmen seek for grouse north of the Tweed, and partridges in Norfolk and Suftblk. The Irish moors are naturally as good for red grouse as in any part of Britain-, and grouse disease is comparatively rare in the country. XX INTRODUCTION Wtstmeath Lakes are famed throughout the world of whippers. A note on the best centres and accommodation will be found on p. 191. The time for rare good sport here is when the May fly appears. Then, if the natural insect itself, and used with a "blow-line," this fly is deadly ; indeed, as Mr. H. R. Francis says, "it kills, as in England, almost to the exclu- sion of every other fly." These waters are, of course, the natural habitat of the art of "blow-line" fishing, a curious method, which can be seen in full swing from the middle of May to the middle of Juno. South- East. — The streams in the south-east corner of the country are, as a rule, much over-fished, and even on Lough Dan, and the Dargle in Wicklow, the supply will not often satisfy the demand of the enthusiast. Waierford arid Cork. — The principal river here is the Black- water, a favourite with all big fishermen, and famed for its salmon. Mallow, Fermoy, and Lismore are all good centres, the latter, with its comfortable hotel, especially (see p, 125). Macroom, now an important tourists' quarters and an hour's ride by rail from Cork, as well as Inchigeelah, have old reputa- tions for the salmon waters in their neighbourhood (p. 149). Round Killarncy in Kerry, in many of the streams, and in Lough Guitane (p. 165), and other loughs, there are, as a rule, large quantities of fish. For Caragh Lake and its river, farther west, the angler will use Caragh Lake Hotel ; higher up the last-mentioned stream is Glencar Hotel. Parknasilla (p. 168), only a few miles from the Kerry Blackwater, and to a greater degree Waterville (p. 165), are both very popular angling resorts. Lougli Curranc and its streams will provide plenty of whipping for visitors at the latter place. The Shminon. — The best of this famous angling river is tlie celebrated reach between Killaloe and Limerick. This is strictly preserved, but tickets can always be purchased by anglers, and convenient hotels can be found at Killaloe, Castleconnel, and Limerick (pp. 186, 187, 176). On this section, as on the Erne, the popular and deadly bait during the spring months is the prawn. The upper waters of the river contain an abundance of good fish, and can be well worked from Carrick-on-Shannon or Boyle (pp. 252, 251). Athlone (p. 195) is the best quarter for Lough Ree, and Portumna (p. 189) for Lough Derg. It will be of interest to note that the Shannon fishermen are INTRODUCTION xxi exceptionally clever at "gaflBng. " The best killing hours for salmon are, according to Major T. B. Traherne, nine to one, and four till dusk. Conneinara. — The most popular streams among the Galway waters have, to speak generally, been somewhat overworked during recent years, but here, as in County Clare, there are many opportunities in the more remote districts for the adven- turous to discover haunts of trout which are at present undis- turbed. South of the Twelve Bells there are numerous and popular centres, and excellent hotels exist at Recess, Deradda, Cashel, etc. (see p. 219). Lough Corrib and Lough Mask, east of Connemara, have long - established reputations. For the former you will find hotels at Galway, Oughterard, Headford, or Cong ; Leenane and Cong will do for the latter,^ For some fishing rivers between Screeb Bridge and Galway, see p. 219.2 For Screeb district fishing, apply to H. B. St. George, Esq., Brackenagh, Ballinasloe. Leenane is an excellent headquarters, not only for Lough Mask, but for Lough Nafooey, Doo Lough, Delphi river, and Erriff river. Mayo is not much better known as a fishing ground than as a tourists' country, but report tells of bull-trout in Killala Bay, of good baskets made on the Moy river, and of salmon and trout fishing round Mallaranny, near Achill Island (p. 232). Round Sligo anglers find fair sport on Lough Gill, Glencar Lough (p. 247), Drumcliff river, and some streams falling into Sligo Bay. Fermanagh is indeed a land of many waters, of which Lough Melvin is the chief. It can be well fished from Bundoran (p. 248) and also Garrison. Here run good lake trout, occasional "ferox," salmon, and the far-named gillaroo. The remarkable variation of the gillaroo consists in the thickening of the coats of the stomach so as to aflford muscular power for dealing with its peculiar shell-fish food. Great numbers have been caught in this lough by 1 In Lough Corrib pike of enormous weight have occasionally been caught. Stories indeed are afloat of a "jack" once landed here which reached as much as 50 lbs. ! Anyhow, these Corrib pike, says Mr. Chol- mondeley Pennell, " fight like demons." 2 In 1899 a lad of seven years hooked a good-sized salmon on one of his father's lakes at Screeb, after playing it for three-quarters of an hour without assistance. The fish was eventually netted by the boatman. The feat was accomplished with a 10-feet trout rod, and G. B. Bligh St. George was the name of the youthful follower of old Izaak. xxii INTRODUCTION the present generation of anglers, and it is the headquarters of this flsh. An eminent master of the gentle art has declared his opinion that in colouring " the glUaroo trout is distinctly the most beautiful flsh in thr British Islands." It is also occasionally met in Loughs Neagh, Boffin, Oorrib, and Mask.i Then Belleek and Ballyshannon are good places for seekers after liull-trout and the fishing in Lower Lough Erne, whilst for Upper Lough Erne, which contains salmon, trout, and pike, both Enniskillen and Newton Butler offer convenient hotels. County Donegal ranks among the first angling districts in Ireland, and there is much to be said about the good salmon and trout waters to be found in the Rosses and other parts of it. But on p. 339 we have given a special note on the best head- quarters, and it will be therefore unnecessary here to do more than refer to it. Of the Antrim rivers the Banu can be conveniently fished from Coleraine, Ballymoney, and Kilrea, and contains both salmon and trout. The Bush is strictly preserved, but the streams running into Ballycastle (p. 323) contain fair fish. Trout are occasionally to be had out of the streams dropping into Cushendun and Cushendall. Lough Neagh is at the far southern corner of the county. It affords trout-fishing, and contains some gillaroo and "ferox." The latter, however, is there known as the " BoJdagh," and the smaller fish are locally named "dolochans," as in Loch Awe. Between Down and Dublin the principal trout streams are those falling into Dundalk Bay, the Lower Boyne, and the Lilfey. GEOLOGY The geologist will note that the formations in Ireland belong to the oldest and newest periods which are represented in the British Isles. On the one hand the Cambrian, Silurian, Old Red Sandstone, and Carboniferous rocks, and on the other the Cretaceous, I^Iioccne, Pliocene, and Post -Pliocene are well developed. Tlie Mesozoic, or secondary strata, however, between these, are hard to find, and, in fact, the "knight of the hammer" from Great Britain will be struck by their absence. Carboniferous limestone covers the surface of the vast central 1 See Fishing, Badminton Library. INTRODUCTION xxiii plain of the country, and is at the same time responsible for the featureless character of that, the least picturesque portion of Ireland. In the sea-girt ring of varied rocks which forms this dull plain's setting lies all that is most beautiful in Erin. From under this bed of limestone rises in the south and south-west a long tract of Old Red Sandstone, extending from Waterford to Dingle ; whilst above it there lies between Dingle and the Moher cliffs of Glare a great triangle of millstone grit and coal. Then comes a long break. From Galway Bay to Lough Foyle stretches a long and much-indented coast-line of cliffs which are for the greater part Silurian metamorphic. Interruptions in this, however, are caused by the Archsean rocks between Galway and the Quartzite barriers of the Twelve Bens ; the Upper Silurian wedge between Leenane and Louisburgh ; the crescent of limestone round Sligo and Donegal Bays ; and the granite tract of the Rosses in West Donegal. A very interesting field of Trap rocks lies between Coleraine and Belfast, across the county of Antrim. This is broken only by the basalt of the Giant's Causeway, and the square patch covering the glens of Antrim between Knocklayd and Garron Point, which is of the same character as the surface of the larger portion of Donegal and Connemara. Belfast is at the north end of a long sheet of Lower Silurian ; this disappears again near the Boyne, and from about its centre rise the granite highlands of the Mourue Mountains. Besides the latter mountains and the "Rosses" district referred to, granite will be observed also in the isolated western height of Croagh Patrick, and again in the hills of Wicklow. The surface of Ireland bears many marks of glaciation, and abundant evidences of the later effects of that " invasion of Ulster by a great ice-sheet from the Grampian mountains of Scotland during the earliest stage of the glacial period." Eskers, moraines, perched-blocks, and " striae " markings can be seen in many of the tourist districts. For the establishment of the geologist's chief data in this matter a great debt is due, as Professor Hull observes, to the Rev. Maxwell Close. The whole subject is dealt with fully in the second part of Professor Hull's own book, which we name below. " Ireland has been designated by a distinguished German xxiv INTRODUCTION naturalist ' The land of the Giant Stag and the Giant's Cause- way.' In all parts of the island we find the remains of the Great Irish Deer {Megaceros Hihcrnicus), which here flourished and abounded to an extent not elsewhere known. He, however, was only one of the group of animals which once lived and roamed there, but which have now either become extinct or migrated to other climes. Among these we may name the Mammoth and the Reindeer, both discovered at Dungarvan, and the Bear, the Wolf, and the Wild Boar. [The Physical Geology and Geography of Ireland, by Dr. Edw. Hull (Stanford) ; and tlie Explanatory Memoirs accompanying the maps of the Geologicil Survey of Ireland, are reconiniended. There is an interesting geological model of Ireland on a large scale in Dublin Museum.) ARCHEOLOGY Ireland is so rich a field for the archseologist that he will thank us for not attempting to do more in this limited space than to suggest merely which are the principal departments of ancient art represented in the country, and how he may find out the principal specimens of each, and the best autho- rities which may help him to study them. Every visitor interested in this subject should certainly provide himself with that fascinating and well - illustrated little book, Miss M. Stokes's Early Christian Art in Ireland, parts 1 and 2 (Chapman and Hall : 4s.). Very useful books also are the sixpenny Handboolcs published by the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland (Hodges and Figgis, Dublin). We take first the ancient buildings : — (1) PRE-CHRISTIAN The builders of the Dolmens, or cromlechs, seem to have moved westward, and cast the last wave of their art over the west coast of Ireland. In innny of the cromlechs have been found bones, with arrow-heads and other imple- ments. JEiam;)Ics.-— Cloughmore (Down), Tyreragh (Sligo), Kilteman (Dublin). In the Tumuli, or mounds, a later and more advanced stage was reached. Their use is pretty evident, for in every instance in Ireland the traces of um-burial have been found. Many of the urns exhibit a state of art which is not of the earliest grade ; and the decoration of the walls is a peculiar feature. Examples :— RathhiW (Drogheda), Loughanmore, Tully Druid, Dysart (Westmeath), the "Royal Cemeteries" of New Grange, Dowth, Teltown, and Rathkenny (see p. 43, etc.).i 1 A note on the Oijha-ni Inscriptions may be of use. The Ogham alphabet Ib said to have been originally deciphered by Bishop Graves of Limerick. More than 200 inscriptions of this character have been found, chiefly in the S.W of Ireland. For an interesting though short account we refer the reader again to Miss Stokes's book — mentioned above. The alphabet INTRODUCTION xxv Forts (cathairs, calm-s) probably belong to the late Celtic period, 200 B.C. to 100 A.D. These are chiefly found on the west coast of Sligo, Galway, Olare, and Kerry, where Lord Dunraven examined two dozen specimens. They are built without cement, but are distinctly "buildings," have doorways, and in construction are "marvellously fine." The round "beehive" huts of stone called cloghauns which are often found within these forts are probably of the same age. Fine examples are Dun Aengus, Dun Conor, Dun Oghil, and Murvey Mil in Aran, and Staigue in County Kerry (see pp. 210, 167).i (2) CHRISTIAN Christian monasteries were introduced into Ireland somewhere between the 3rd and the 5th centuries, and " the first monks merely adopted the method of building then practised among the natives." They often formed their settlements within the castle of the old Firbolg chieftains, and on Inis- murray2 and other places we still find ruins of these early oratories, huts, wells, and gardens remaining within the protecting wall of the older pagan cashel. The earliest oratories were of stone, and oblong, averaging in length no more than 14 feet.3 Their walls were, as a rule, of slabs sloping like steps in a curve till they met at the top. The commonest type took the shape of "an upturned boat." Of these the finest specimen in existence is that at Gallerus,4 but many still remain along the west coast. The later ones were of a different shape and resembled rather an ark or shrine, but not, it will be noticed, a basilica. These oratories were often built on tops of mount- ains and in mountain tams.B For intense wildness and romantic situation perhaps no early Christian settlement in Western Europe can rival that of Skellig Michael — the " Michael's Mount of Ireland." 6 In the 6th and 7th centuries appeared the first churclies built with cement and bearing marks of chisel-work. In those which remain the door- ways are made of inclined jambs surmounted by a straight lintel, Egyptian fashion ; and the east window has generally a round head scooped out of one stone. These buildings were originally one chamber only, as the chancels now existing are "evidently additions of a later period " ; and none had at that early date developed into the cruciform shape. Then came the 9th-century developments. Evidences of these are seen in such churches as Friar's Island, Killaloe ; St. Columba's, Kens'? ; St. Kevin's House, Glenda- lough 8 ; all of which may be assigned to the period 800-820 a.d. It was probably between the 9th and 13th centuries that the famous Round. Towers were built. Their date and use have been the subject of consists of lines arranged on the left and right sides of a base line ; these are of different lengths, and, in certain cases, of difi'erent angles. " Almost all which have been deciphered present merely a proper name, with its patronymic, both in the genitive case." (See Sir Sam. Ferguson's Ogham Inscriptio7is. Prof. Rhys of Cambridge is a great authority.) 1 Lis, a circular earthen fort ; Bath, or Rah, circular foifc ; Cathair (caher), circular stone fort ; Dun (docm, dou-n), fortified fort or royal residence. 2 P. 249. 3 p. 249. 4 P. 170 5 P. 349. 6 p. 167. 7 P. 47. 8 P. 258. xxvi INTRODUCTION long diflcUBsion among tin? archifologists. Dr. Petrie placed their erection between the 6th and 18th centuries ; Lord Dunraven, on the other hand, decided npon the period of the 0th or 10th centuries, and "traced the type from Ireland through France to Ravenna." Miss Stokes combines the in- formation, and concludes from tlip facts adduced by both that, as indeed their ancient name cioiceen the Agricultural Technical Instruction Act, the passing of which has been largely due to the efforts of Mr. Gerald Balfour ; though it is only fair to add that Lord Londonderry was the first to advocate such a measure. The principles of this Act, if wisely carried out, and if accepted and used in the proper spirit by those whom it was intended to benefit, contain in themselves much good for the country. But, as Mr. Balfour himself has pointed out, it is not to be expected that the advantages of the working of the Act will be seen for some time. " Reference," he has said, " has been made to the cases of Denmark and Wiirtemberg, and no doubt the establishment of institutions such as they had created under this measure had promoted progress in those two countries. But in Denmark and Wurtemberg progress had been slow. It required at least a generation before the results were felt. The reason why the process of improvement must necessarily be a slow one, was that what tliey had to aim at was not so much a change in external conditions as a change in men's habits and attitude of mind, which did not change with rapidity. It was, in fact, the old lesson of sclf-hi-lii." Mr. Balfour here undoubtedly strikes at the root of the whole matter. It is waste of energy to work for the improvement of Irish agricul- ture unless the chief efforts be expended upon the farmer himself. Ireland has been lately called the land " where no one is in a hurry," this is certainly true of the Hibernian agriculturist. The Saint Patrick of the future will be lie who stirs him to make haste. For the information of the visitor who may be for the first time in the island we should add that the most fertile part is the tract in Munster known as the "Golden Vale," between Cashel in Tipperary and Limerick. Afl with Mr. Gerald Balfour's ellorts, so also with the Congested District Board. This has been working very hard for over ten years, and yet is able to create changes so slowly that the public, as Mr. Balfour says, fancy " tliat they are not doing auy work at all." It caunot be doubted that time INTRODUCTION xxix will bring the reward. Their eflbrts have been concentrated chiefly upon the "distressful country" of the west coast,— such as the poorest districts of Donegal, Mayo, Connemara, and Kerry. If the reader wish to see for himself in wliat stricken condition the least fortunate of his own country. men exist, we recommend a visit thither, — to either Gorumna Island in Southern Connemara, or the cabins near Adrigole on Bantry Bay. The experience is a painful one, but it wiU convince him of the truth of the statement that " the benefactor is not the inventor of a new party cry, but of a new art or profit- able occupation." To indicate briefly the methods of the Congested District Board it is suflBcienthere to name the Prevention of Potato Disease, Tree Culture, Horse- breeding, Pig-breeding, Poultry-farming, Tweed and Cloth weaving, and the important measures carried out in the interests of the Sea Fisheries as branches of their work.i To conclude our note we venture to quote the pithy remarks of Mr. Stephen Gwynn : "The Congested Districts Board has been so busy in the west of Donegal that it has generated an adjective. There is a 'congested' bridge over the Gweebarra River, 'congested' roads carry you over much of the country, and you may meet ' congested ' fish being hawked all the way from the Bloody Foreland down into Cavan." 2 Finally, there has been the Land Act of 1903, from which great advan- tages are expected through the purchase of the land by the tillers. Except in the case of linens, poplins, and laces, we fancy few English purchasers would ask for a product of Irish industry. Yet the field covered by that industry is even to-day of far wider extent. To give it a still greater hold upon the English market was the praiseworthy aim of the King and Queen (then the Prince and Princess of Wales) in opening the Mansion House Exhibition on St. Patrick's.Day 1900. Two sales of Irish products are held every year, and by means of these the Irish Industries Association have been enabled to send increasingly large sums for the relief of the poorer districts. The year 1900 was undoubtedly a red-letter year in the tistory of Erin, and neither the trne Irishman himself nor his well-wisher in Britain can be slow to appreciate the significance of the late Queen's beneficent visit to Dublin in the spring of that year. Nor was the Transvaal war without its efl'ects in this respect. " The Irish regiments, faithful alike to their Queen and to the long- established and often-confirmed traditions of their valour and their loyalty, have done more to promote the Imperial interests of Ireland than could have been accomplished by legislators in a generation, and they have gilded every- thing Irish with a halo of romance which is not likely soon to disappear. "3 The subsequent interest of King Edward and his gracious consort in the country has had a most beneficent eSect. It is not our place here to enter into political questions, but an instance of the change of feeling which has taken place in Ireland of late was afforded in a remark made to the editor by a leading Irish Nationalist. Discussing the proposed visit of the King and Queen in 1904, he remarked, " Of coiu-se we shall give them a real Irish welcome. When the Parliament meets on College Green we want the King 1 See Annual Report of Congested District Board for Ireland. Hodges and Figgis, Dublin, 4d. Purdon's Almanac for Fanners, 23 Bachelor's Walk, Dublin, Is., contains much useful information on Irish Agriculture generally. '^ Highways and Byevays in Donegal and Antrim. 3 Times, March 17, 1900. xxxii INTRODUCTION GENERAL The following books are recommended :— The Origin of Irish Place Names, by Dr. P. W. Joyce. (Gill, Dublin. 10s. or Is.) The question as to the injliience of Egypt upon Irish history is treated by Mr. George Coffey in the Joum. of Roy. Soc. Antiquaries of Ireland, 1895. In the same journal for 1897 Mr. W. Frazer demonstrates that Roman Britain was the most available source for the large quantities of gold used by the early Irish metal-workerg. Irish Life and Character, by Michael MacDonagh (Hodder and Stoughton) : a delightful collection of anecdotes. Also the equally charming Seventy Years of Irish Life, by W. R. Le Fanu. (Edw. Arnold.) Climbing in the British Isles, Pt. II. Wales and Ireland, by H. 0. Hart. (Longmans.) Thorn's Irish Almanac (Dublin) may be consulted with advantage for good statistical and general information (anuual ; large). GREAT SOUTHERN RAILWAYS CONTENTS or PINK PAGES PAGE Summer Steamers for Killarney Section iii Summer Gars ., „ . . iii Summer Steamers for Galway Section V Summer Cars ., „ . . vi Summer Steamers for Belfast Section . vii Summer Cars „ „ . . . vii (i) BLACK'S GUIDE TO IRELAND (KILLARNEY SECTION) [The Official A.B.C. Irish Railway Guide (Office, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin), and Falconer's A.B.C. Irish Guide (Upper Sackville Street, Dublin) ; post free, bd. each, are reoomniended.] Pa^ein SUMMER STEAMERS this book 122. Blackwater Steamers. — A steamer runs betweeu Youghal and Cappoquiu from early in June to Sept. 30. The times of departure, between 8.30 a.m. and 7 P.M., in each direction, vary according to the tide, and on certain days there are no sailings from one end. Fares (ordinary). Single, 2s. and Is. 6(1. Return, 3s. and 2s. For details apply Secretary, Youghal and Blackwater Tourist Steamship Co., Ltd., Youghal. 131. Waterford Steamers. To Belfast, Sat. To Liverpool, Sun. Wed. Fri. ,, Bristol, Tues. r „„,,;„„ «r.f /^ 7 mu ,, London, fiSit. ,, Cork, Thurs. " ' ,, Dover, Sat., 4 p.m. ,, Newhaveu, Sat. „FishgiMrd,A^\\Y,bv.u. „ Plymouth, Wed. „ Glasgow, Mon. Wed., about "J ' 1 P.M. ,, Southampton, Sat., 4 p.m. 98. Goold's Cross Station to Cashel. — Car leaves, if passengers offer, at 9. 45, 11.48 a.m.; VA.h-i. 4.24. 5.48 p.m. Fares 2s. 6d. each way. 142. Bantry to Killarney (•' Prince of Wales Route" — by Motor Char-a-bancs). P..M. A.M. Bantry . . . dep. 7.0 Killarney . . dep. ',>.30 GlengarritfH . . arr. 8.0 Kenmare . arr. 11.15 Dep. next morning A.M. P.M. from Glengarriffe . 0..SO ,, . dep. 3.15 Kenmare . . arr. 11.15 Glengarnffe . arr. 5.0 P.M. I) . dep. 5.45 ,, . . . dep. 3.0 Killarney . . arr. 5.15 Bantry . arr. 6.45 148. Macroom to Glengarriffe (by Motor Char-a-banc). Macroom Keinianeigli dep. . (I rr. ,, . . dep. Glengarriffe . . arr. Killarney (sec above). A.M. 10.15 P.M. 12.0 12.45 2.30 (iii) Killarney (see above). Glengarriffe . . d Keinianeiiih . . a Macroom dep. arr. I'.M. 3.0 4.4.". 5.30 7.15 Faqe in this book SUMMER CARS -contuuwd ]6-)-y -Motor Char-a-hauc). P.M. A.M. Caliin ivei'ii . . ilej,. 1.45 Parknasilla . . tlep. 9.30 Watei ville . . nrr. . dep. •-'.40 2.0-0 Waterville . . arr. . (kp. 17.30 I'.M. 12.0 rarkiiasilla . arr. \ 4.55 Cahirciveen . . arr. 1.0 165-6. Parknasilla to Kenmare (hy Motor Char-a-bauc). A.M. P.M. P.M. l\-irkiia.silla . dep. .'> 12.30 1.45 Kenmare . arr. 10.20 1.45 3.0 A.M. A.M. I'.M. Kenmare . drp. 10. -io 11.30 P.M. 4.10 Parknasilla . . arr. 11.45 12.45 .5.25 For Fares and other details of above Motor Services apply to Tourist Ucvelopment {Ireland), Ltd., 30 Molesu-arth Street, Dvhlin. (iv) BLACK'S GUIDE TO IRELAND (GALWAY SECTION) [The Official A. B.C. Irish Railway Guide (Office, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin), and Falconer's A.B.C. Irish Guide (Upper Sackville Street, Dublin); post free, bd. each, are reconamended.] Page in SUMMER STEAMERS this book 176. Lower Shannon (Limerick and Kilrush, Limericlc S.S. Company, Li'iiierick). Up to the last week in June, two or three times weekly, from Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick. Commencing from the last week in June, almost every weekday from Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick. The steamers stop at Kildysart, Redgap (Labasheeda), and Tarhert (for Listowel) — unless otherwise announced. There are also frequent excursions both weekdays and Sundays. 197. Upper Shannon (see " Guide tn Shannon Lakes," the F. IF. Crossley Pub- lishing Co., Ltd., Dublin, 3W.).— Tourist steamers now run daily during tourist season, Sundays excepted, between Banagher and Killaloe, with train connections at either end. A special day trip is run from Kingsbridge Station, Dublin, t(j Banagher, thence by steamer to Killaloe, and rail back to town, arriving at 10.25 p.m. Return Fares, including luncheon ancl tea on steamer: — 1st class, 13s.; 3rd class, 10s. Time is allowed for dinner at Lakeside Hotel, Killaloe. 209. Galway to Aran Isles (Galwai/ Bay steamboat Company, Gahvay) on Tues., Thur., Sat. all the year round. •213. Galway to Ballyvaughan (see tables of above) on Men., Wed., Fri. during July, August, and September. 234. Lough Corrib (Lough Corrib Steam.hoat Company, Galway). — A steamer leaves Galway for Cong daily at 3 p.m. It leaves Cong for Galway daily at 8 a.m. The steamer stops at Kilbeg on each trip, and Annagh- down on Sats. Return Fares : — 6s. and 3s. 245. Sligo and Belmullet (see Time Tobies by Board of Works, Dublin).— From Sligo on Tues. and Thurs. ; and from Belmullet on Wed. and Fri. (May to Sept. inclusive ; weekly rest of year). Excursion Fares (ret.) : — 7s. 6d. ; 5s., issued at Belmullet and Sligo (May to September inclusive). The time-table is subject to alteration. 255. Lower Lough Erne (Programme of Great Northern Ireland Railway, Office, Dublin). — Lake steamer every weekday from 12th June to 16th Sep- tember. Enniskillen . . . . dep. A.M. 10.45 Castle Caldwell . . dep. P.M. 3.10 Castle Caldwell . . err. P.M. 1.0 Enniskillen . . . arr. 5.20 (V) Pagt in tkis hook '-'SC. Greencastle Car SUMMER CAB.B— continued Greenoie (Lont'li Steamer) . . . (/py. Greencastle Car . . ,, Kilkeel Car . . . arr. Newcastle Car . . ,, 9.50 10.7 10.50 P.M. 1.0 P.M. Newcastle Car. dep. 3.30 Kilkeel Car . . . ji 5.50 Greencastle Car an: (j.43 Greencastle (Longh Steamer) . . . dep. 0.45 Greenore (Lough Steamer) . . . arr. 9.0 27C. Warrenpoint Ferry.— Ferry-boat from Warreiipoint to Onieatli Statioi) or vice rcrsa. '«' I!. X.I!. Proiirammr.) Creeslough to Rosapenna. — A Char-a-banc runs from Creeslough to Rosapenna every weekday from 1st Junff to 30th September in con- nection with 1.6 P.M. train from Letterkenny. The Char-a-banc leaves Rosapenna at 11.15 a.m. , arriving at Creeslough in time for train leaving Creeslough at 11.50 a.m. for Letterkenny. Fare, 2s. Od. each way. {See G.X.J!. l'ro