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 PICTURESQUE VIEWS 
 
 ON THE 
 
 RIVER WYE. 
 
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 Bualt 
 
 B-mEEIOKD 
 
 Rol'.s
 
 Pi&urefque Views 
 
 ON THE 
 
 IVER WYE, 
 
 FROM 
 
 Its Source at Plinlimmon Hill, to its Junction 
 
 WITH THE 
 
 SEVERN below CHEPSTO Ws 
 
 WITH 
 
 OBSERVATIONS 
 
 O N 
 
 THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND OTHER WORKS OF 
 ART, IN ITS VICINITY : 
 
 BY SAMUEL IRELAND, 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 *' A Piflurefque Tour through Holland, Brabant, and part of France j" 
 
 AND, 
 
 Of " Pi&urefque Views on the Rivers Thame9, Medway, 
 «* Warwickshire Avon," &c. 
 
 Lontion : 
 
 FUBLISHED BV R. FAULDER, NEW BOND STREET J 
 AND T. EGERTON, WHITEHALL. 
 
 I797-
 
 C v ) 
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 • g »--q^'.'^$"< 2'. i. ' i> 
 
 JTX M O N G S T the numerous rivers with 
 which our Ifland is fo richly ornamented 
 and fertilized, the Wye, our preient fubjecl: 
 of inveftigation, though in no very widely 
 extended courfe, and itfelf only a tributary 
 ftream, is yet in the production of the fub- 
 lime, of the grand and majeftic proudly 
 eminent above its fellows. In a courfe of 
 about eighty miles, the utmoft diilance it 
 meafures from its fource, to its junction 
 with the Severn, fo various and fuch an in- 
 terefting piclurefque fcenery is perhaps no 
 
 a where 

 
 ( vi ) 
 
 where to be found, either in this or any 
 other country. 
 
 Nature and Art have moft. happily 
 combined in opening their richeft flores to 
 diverfify and fpread fertility, grandeur and 
 beauty over the country through which it 
 flows : for its environ is not lefs highly dif- 
 tinguifhed and drefled by the hand of art 
 with caftles, abbies, and villas beautifully 
 feated on its banks, than it is itfelf favoured 
 by nature, in the {hiking interchange of 
 fhoal and flood, wood and rock, meadow 
 and precipice. With fo much, and in 
 fo many various ways to allure and intereft, 
 it was not poffible that all its charms could 
 have efcaped either the penetrating eye of 
 Tafte and Genius, or the pencil of the in- 
 quifitive, refined, and fyftematkal Amateur, 
 
 and
 
 ( vii ) 
 
 and accordingly many of its moil ftriking 
 features have employed the pens and the 
 pencils of our Writers and Artifts ; but they 
 have, all of them, been either detached 
 views and fingle objects, or, if more has 
 been comprehended in the defign of the 
 amateur or artift, the execution has been 
 partial, imperfec~l, or foreign to the fubject. 
 The whole has never been fully exhibited to 
 the tye of the lover of the fcenes of nature 
 faithfully delineated. One ingenious au- 
 thor indeed has given obfervations upon 
 the river, and fuch as have unqueftionably 
 merited the high commendations they have 
 received from the admirers of the pictu- 
 refque and beautiful : and he has accompa- 
 nied his obfervations with drawings. He 
 does not however profefs to give exact repre- 
 sentations, or portraits of the various ob- 
 
 a 2 jeel:
 
 ( vlli ) 
 
 jects that prfent themfelves, but aims ra* 
 ther at exhibiting their general effect on 
 the eye, when confidered technically, and as 
 piQurefquc forms by the learned and pro- 
 fefTed artiit. 
 
 Without interfering therefore with 
 the plan of that much admired writer, or 
 arrogating to himfelf fuperior fcience or 
 knowledge of his iubje£*- f the author of 
 this W0ik has, in conformity with his ori- 
 ginal intention, felecrol this river from 
 an: :n^ft thofe not yet defcribed, in order to 
 complete his hiftc y of the principal rivers 
 of this country : and, unable as he feels 
 himfelf to lender juftice to the dignity of 
 his fubjecr, he builds his claim to public 
 favor, on the fidelity with which he flatters 
 himfelf he has delineated the fcenery. He 
 
 would
 
 ( * ) 
 
 wouM wifh, and it is his aim, that h'.s 
 drawings fh^uld, like the tranfparent mirror 
 of his ftr "am, truly reflet the landfcape 
 that exifts around, as well as the objecls 
 that decorate its banks. And, content with 
 the fimple charms and i arieties of nature, 
 he cannot prevail upon himfelf to contem- 
 plate in every winding of the dream the 
 forms of his own idea, the image of his 
 own mind and ito complicated famenefs, 
 reflected again, and again j but gives to his 
 reader that, which, if he vifits the fpot, 
 he trulls he will rind, and, if the fpot is 
 known to him already, he affures himfelf 
 he will recognize. 
 
 The tremendous floods, which, in the 
 beginning of the year 1795, fubfequent to 
 that, in which thefe drawings were made, 
 
 having
 
 ( * ) 
 
 having fo completely fwept away feveral an- 
 cient, as well as elegant flruttures thrown 
 acrols Jiis ftream, may perhaps giv t iorne 
 additional value to the (ketches of them here 
 introduced. If not elfewhere preferved, 
 icarce a veflige of them remains to be re- 
 fbrted to by the artift or by the architect, 
 whofe profeffion muft peculiarly enable him 
 
 to do more juftice to the nature of the 
 fabric. 
 
 The Hiftory, and Picturefque Views of 
 the River Severn are in great forwardnefs, 
 and will, it is prefumed, be ready for publi- 
 cation, in Two Volumes, Royal Octavo, in 
 the courfe of next year. 
 
 PRINTS
 

 
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 < 
 
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 Piclurefque Views 
 
 O N T H E 
 
 RIVER WYE. 
 
 '* Pllnlimmon's high praifc no longer Mufe defer; 
 
 *' What once the Druids told, how great thofe floods mould bft, 
 
 « That here (moft mightie hill) derive thernfelves from thee. 
 
 «« The Bards with furie rapt, the Britim youth among, 
 
 «* Unto the charming harpe, thy future honor fong 
 
 " In brave and loftle ftraines : — " 
 
 Drayton. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 PROMa fmall fpring near the fummit of 
 Plinlimmon Hill, the boundary of the nor- 
 thern part of Cardiganfhire, our river Wye 
 derives its fource. Killing from a fpacious 
 hollow in this mountain, the water falls in 
 a narrow ftreamlet feveral hundred yards 
 
 A nearly
 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 nearly perpendicular, till meeting with ir& 
 rious fmall currents, it foon prefents itfelf in 
 the fhape of an immenfe cataract, rolling 
 with aftoniihing rapidity over the rocky 
 prominencies which feeni to impede its 
 courfe. The name of this river appears 
 anciently to have been a common appel- 
 lation, either for river or water. Cam- 
 den fays, that the word gwy or wy fignifies 
 
 water, and inftanees the following names 
 which have that termination, as proofs of 
 his opinion ; viz. Lhugwy, Dowrdwy, Ed- 
 wy, Conwy, Elwy, Towy, Tawy, &c. &c. 
 From the fame ridge of mountains, within 
 two miles of the fource of the Wye, the 
 rivers Severn and Rydall derive their origin : 
 the latter of which empties itfelf into the 
 Irifh fea at Aberyftwith. The views from- 
 this huge and dreary hill are wild and ex- 
 tenfive beyond defcription ; they exhibit 
 mountains, rolling as it were, over each 
 other, and under the mo ft fublime forms and 
 
 beau-
 
 { 3 ) 
 
 tauti ful hues, varying and fhifting till they 
 jnfenfibly lofe themfelves and melt into the 
 horizon. We were peculiarly fortunate in 
 having a bright and clear day to view in all 
 its grandeur this fublime and picturefque 
 fcenery; an advantage which an experienced 
 guide informed us had fcarce ever occured 
 ■during a courfe of many years in thofe airy 
 regions, where it was almoft invariably his 
 fate to encounter a heavy and hazy atmof- 
 phere, commonly attended with rain. On 
 this lofty mountain the famous Owen Glyn- 
 dwr, in the fummer of 1401, polled him- 
 felf, fays the hiftorian, £c with great policy 
 " at the head of a hundred and twenty men 
 f< of arms. 5 ' The fituation of Plinlimmon 
 Hill being on the limits of Cardiganshire and 
 Montgomeryshire, was admirably adapted 
 for receiving the fuccours of his vafTals and 
 friends from every part of the principality. 
 From this faftnefs his adherents, who were 
 She terror of all that oppofed him, were per- 
 
 A 2 pctually
 
 ( 4- ) 
 
 petually making excurfions, and plundering 
 the neighbouring counties j amongft which 
 Montgomeryfliire appears to have been the 
 greateft fufferer. 
 
 The birth of this renowned hero, of 
 Wales, which happened on the 28th of 
 May, 1354, appears by Hollingfhed and 
 others, to have been marked with ftrange 
 prefages of celebrity : he fays, that his cru^ 
 elty was foretold at his nativity, by the 
 wonderful circumftance of '< his father's 
 <c horfes being found (landing that night in 
 <c the (table up to their bellies in bloody" 
 and Shakfpeare, in the following lines, put 
 into the mouth of Glyndwr, thus defcribes 
 the vain glorious chieftain, 
 
 —" At my birth 
 
 " The front of Heav'n was full of fiery fhapes ; 
 " The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds 
 (( Were itrangely clamorous in the frighted fields s 
 f Thefe fignshave marked me extraordinary, 
 «' And all the courfes of my life do fiievv, 
 M I am not in the roll of common men." 
 
 A (till
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 A ftill more extraordinary circumftance 
 is attached to the hiftory of this Welch 
 phenomenon. Jolo Goch, a celebrated bard, 
 has not heritated to confider the great event 
 of hi birth, as equal in importance to man- 
 kind w.th that of Jefus ChrifL 
 
 Thf river Wye, in this its earlieft ftage, 
 is peculiarly marked with features of the 
 grand and fublime : its amazing rapidity is 
 perpetually interrupted by immenfe large 
 {tones and rocky fubftances, and the rufh of 
 its waters produces a folemn noife, that 
 feems as if they were 
 
 M Chiding the ftones that flopp'd their courfe.** 
 
 The fpots of verdure and broken ground 
 in the vicinity of this rude fcene, the dark 
 fhades of rock, and beetling brows of the 
 hills with which it is bounded on either fide, 
 form a fpectacle as majeflic and awful as 
 
 the
 
 ( 6 ) 
 
 the untaught imagination can paint, or that 
 can prefent itfelf to the eye throughout 
 the range of this ifland. 
 
 It is fimple nature in her pureft and 
 grander!: form, and without a trace of her 
 handmaid art, without either caftle, church, 
 or ruin : objects that more than form the 
 beautiful in picture, that are efTentially ne^ 
 cefTary, and can alone give dignity to the 
 feeble works of man ; without thefe the 
 fcenery is here complete. 
 
 For feveral miles the country wears 
 nearly the fame afpect j one continued un- 
 dulating line of hills forms the diitancej 
 and the river, though of no confiderable 
 width, continues gently to roll over its 
 rocky and gravelly bed, " making fweet 
 H mufic with the enamelled Hones 5" 
 
 " Giving a gentle kifs to every fedge 
 *f He overtaketh in his pilgrimage." 
 
 At
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 At a diftance of about fix miles from 
 its fource, in a village called Cumergar, the 
 Wye receives a considerable body of water 
 from the river Caftah This River is full in 
 view, and forms a beautiful object from the 
 road, on the way to what is called the Devil's 
 Bridge, At Cumergar is a wooden bridge 
 called Pont-rhyd Gallad : it is the firft that 
 is thrown acrofs this river, and the fcenery 
 around it is extenfive and beautiful. The 
 Wye here lofes much of its impetuofity and 
 confequently of its grandeur : its rocky bed 
 is foftened and in many places fpread with a 
 mere gravelly fubftance, and at this fummer 
 feafon is confiderably narrowed, and fre- 
 quently left perfectly dry. From the conti- 
 nual accefiion, however, of fprings and 
 rills, that iflue from the neighbouring moun- 
 tains, it is not known to remain long in 
 that jftate. From hence, on an eafy afcent, 
 a tolerable road leading to Llanidlos runs pa- 
 rallel with the fkeam, and affords a beautiful 
 
 ride
 
 C 8 ) 
 
 tide till we approach the wretched village of 
 Llangerig : amoii^ft whofe clay cottages 
 without chimneys, churlifh boors, and four 
 milk and black bread, the only refrelh- 
 ment it fupplied, our weary fpirits were 
 filled with rapture at the beauties of that 
 fituation, to which extreme penury, favage 
 nature, or infenfibility could alone be in- 
 different : They were fo impreflive, that 
 within a mile of this village we determined 
 to flop, flattering ourfelves with the hope 
 that by the aid of the pencil, we might be 
 enabled to give the characteriftic features of 
 a country, which we utterly defpair by any 
 powers of language that we could com- 
 mand in any adequate manner to commu- 
 nicate. 
 
 About three miles below Llangerig^ irt a, 
 fouthern direction, the river Darnel, which 
 derives its fource from the hills that bear its 
 name, empties itfelf into the Wye, Pur- 
 
 fuing
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 fuing the courfe of the river, the Nanerth 
 rocks in an extent of near three miles, form 
 a beautiful fcreen to its northern bank. 
 
 On this fpot the Wye, in an eafy bend, 
 gently rolls over its rugged bed, while the af- 
 cending road, girting the immenfe hills that 
 are enriched with fpreading oaks and luxu- 
 riant underwood, peculiarly invited the pen- 
 cil : Through thefe, the rocks in various 
 fantaftic forms, perpetually break upon the 
 eye, and the cottages interfperfed among the 
 diftant hills, relieve the wide-fpread and ex- 
 tended fcenery. On the brow of a rifing 
 hill, in the fore ground, a group of cattle 
 which covered it, feemed at the inftant, as 
 if placed there by defign to complete the 
 view. Beneath, the gentle river Marteg, the 
 receptacle of many fmaller ftreams that arife 
 in the vicinity of Llanidlos, ripling over its 
 pebbly bed, lofes its name and its current in, 
 the broader channel of the Wye. 
 
 B SEC-
 
 ( » ) 
 
 SECTION. II. 
 
 F> 
 
 ROM Nanerth rocks, after a pleafant 
 ride of about three miles on the bank of the 
 Wye, we reached Rhaidr Gwy; the word 
 Rhaidr fignifies a cataract, or fall of water, 
 and is frequently applied to thofe falls, 
 among the mountains of Snowden in Car- 
 narvonfhire. 
 
 Camden feems to think that from trie 
 word Rhaidr, the county of Radnor, through 
 the weft angle of which, this river directs 
 its courfe derived its name. The bridge at 
 Rhaidr confifts of one wide arch, which from 
 its bafe forms a very large fegment of a cir- 
 cle. It is a plain ftruclure and has little but 
 its romantic accompaniments to recommend 
 it ; the immenfe pile of rocks on which it 
 (s elevated, carries the arch (o high as to 
 
 B 2 afford
 
 ( I* ) 
 
 afford from beneath it, an extenfive profpect 
 of the adjoining country, in which a fmali 
 Wellh building called Cvvmtather Church 
 appears in a whimfical point of view. The 
 annexed fketch was taken from below the 
 bridge, where the combination of objects is 
 wonderfully grand ; and in this dry ieafon, 
 difplays in full force the ponderous rocky 
 fubftances of which it is compofed. But in 
 confequence of this drought, we had the 
 misfortune to lofe the difplay and thun-r 
 der of its cataract, which a lefs friendly ftate 
 of the elements would have exhibited in all 
 its grandeur. The (tones over which the 
 waters in this vicinity roll, are of an immenfe 
 fize, and in their forms, partake both of the 
 majeftic, and the grotefque j their diverfified 
 hues, and vad angular prominencies afford 
 in certain lights and in fome feafons of the 
 day, under the rays of a bright fun the mod 
 brilliant and picturefque effect. Over the 
 bridge paffes the high road that leads to Aber 
 
 ryfhvyth^
 
 ( «3 ) 
 
 jryftwith, and a more rugged and dreary path, 
 is perhaps fcarce to be trod in any of the fre- 
 quented parts of this principality. Rhaidr, 
 though now but a miferable place, derived 
 formerly fome confequence from its caflle, 
 which was advantageoufly fituatedin a nook 
 of the river not far from the bridge, but 
 of which no trace at prefent remains. Near 
 the fpot whereon the caflle flood is a deep 
 trench cut out of a folid rock, and not far 
 diflant, are feveral large Tumuli, or Bar- 
 rows, called in Welfh, Kern, and Keido. 
 Thefe are conjectured to have been raifed as 
 memorials of the dead. Camden confirms 
 this idea, and obferves, not very confiftently 
 indeed with the refpect due to the me- 
 mory of the departed, * c that it is flill the 
 cuftom to caft heaps of flones on the 
 graves of malefactors and felf mur- 
 ^ derers.'* 
 
 At what period the caflle at Rhaidr was 
 
 built 
 
 «< 
 
 a
 
 ( H ) 
 
 built is not afcertained, but it was repaired 
 by Rhys Prince of South Wales in the reign 
 of Richard the firit, and near it fays Cam- 
 den, " is a vaft wildernefs rendered very 
 ?' difmal by many crooked ways and high 
 " mountains, into which as a proper place 
 u of refuge, that bane of his native country, 
 " King Vortigern, whofe very memory the 
 M Britons curfe, withdrew himfelf, when he 
 ** had at laft repented of his abominable 
 <c wickednefs, in calling in the Englifh 
 c * Saxons, and inceftuoufly marrying his own 
 « { daughter." 
 
 His addrefs to the Barons, on the fub- 
 jecl of calling in the aid of the Saxons, is 
 thus recorded by an anonymous author. 
 
 My Lords, vain compliment would fuit but ill 
 The prefent time, I therefore briefly thank you, 
 But e'er we part, fain would I crave your hearing. 
 Our Troops have now been long difus'd to War — 
 Y et do not th : nk I mean their fame to tarnifl), 
 
 « Or
 
 ( '5 ) 
 
 gt Or on a Briton throw the damned flur 
 
 ** Of (hameful cowardice. No, my good Lords,— 
 
 *' But though their ribs do ferve as caftle walls, 
 
 <4 And faft imprifon their ftrong Lion hearts, 
 
 " Yet e'en the Lion, when full gorg'd with food 
 
 " Will bafk and tamely lay him down to fleep— « 
 
 " Then in fuch fort, hath undifturbed peace, 
 
 " And want of cuftom, (nature's fubftitute, 
 
 " That changes e'en our very properties) 
 
 " Soften'd their manhood. Then t'were policy 
 
 " That we fhould court the Saxons to our aid ! 
 
 " This too will in our Britons raife the flame 
 
 " Of bright and generous emulation. 
 
 *' Say Lords ! doth this my propofition pleafe you? 
 
 Below Rhaidr we foon loft fight of that 
 immenfe rocky fcenery, fo eminently charac- 
 terizing its neighborhood, and every reach 
 of the river yielded additional richnefs and 
 verdure. A detail of each minute change 
 of profpecl: that occurs in a tour of this 
 nature, however gratifying at the moment 
 to the eye of the curious and picturefque 
 traveller, would be tedious and unintereft- 
 ing ; it is therefore the bufinefs of deicrip- 
 
 tion
 
 t 16 ) 
 
 tion to record only the moft material ob- 
 jects as they occur, and leave imagination 
 to paint the reft. About three miles below 
 Rhaidr, the Wye receives a confiderable 
 fupply of water from the rivers Eland and 
 Clanven, which unite at a diftance of about 
 four miles from their conflux with our ri- 
 ver. Below this a copious rtream called th£ 
 Ither, which in its courfe receives the Dulas 
 and Comar, makes a confiderable addition to 
 the waters of the Wye. From the brow of 
 a hill about two miles before we reach the 
 town of Builthj the fcenery is peculiarly 
 beautiful, the river fpreads itfelf into a bay, 
 and the immenfe rocky fubltances with 
 which its bed has hitherto been fpread, rife 
 here in various detached forms many yards 
 
 above its furface, exhibiting fo many fniali 
 iilands, and agreeable breaks in the fore 
 
 ground of the landfcape 
 
 The annexed view was fketched front 
 
 this
 
 ( '7 ; 
 
 this fpot, in which it is much to be regret- 
 ted that the bridge of Builth could not be 
 introduced, as it would confiderably have 
 added to the beauty of the fcenery. huilth 
 is a town of little confequence, yet from its 
 antiquity, and the falubrity of its air, it be- 
 comes highly deferving our attention. We 
 happened to be there on a market day, when 
 the town was fo thronged with people, that 
 we could fcarcely pafs through it. It re- 
 fembled rather a fair than a market, and the 
 immenfe croud collected together, prefented 
 to the eye a fcene in effect, fimilnr to that of 
 one continued mafs of long blue cloaks, 
 apparently in perpetual motion. Not a 
 houfe, nor a liable but was occupied, and it 
 was really a matter of aftonifhment, that in 
 fo fmall a town, and on fo common an oc- 
 cafion as that of a weekly market, fuch a 
 vaft concourfe of people fhould have been 
 afTembled ; but a market or fair, is the pride 
 
 C and
 
 ( «» ) 
 
 and glory of the Welfh ; and, happy fouls ! 
 why mould they not in a fultry fummer's 
 day, enjoy the fuffocating luxury of a long 
 blue cloak, as well as the Londoner his 
 fummer theatre, amidfl u the raging dog 
 " ftar's heat," 
 
 In an extenfive tour through Wales, I 
 witnefTed a fcene at Aberyflwith very fimilar 
 to that I have juft defcribed, and as the fur- 
 rounding objects were there more peculiarly 
 marked with the pi£turefque than thofe 
 at Builth, a reprefentation of the fcene, 
 although at a confiderable diftance from 
 hence, may perhaps not prove unacceptable 
 to the reader. In this view appears part of 
 the cancellated dwelling of Uvedale Price, 
 Efq; a man not lefs diftinguifhed for the 
 elegance with which he cultivates the fine 
 arts, than for his powers of difcrimination, 
 and the accuracy with which he defines them. 
 
 The
 
 ( '9 ) 
 
 The houfe is recently erected on the fliore, 
 and commands an extenfive profpect of 
 the Tea, the only one in fact it does com- 
 mand. 
 
 At this market or fair, the ufual arti- 
 fices to amufe and delude, were exhibited 
 with the ufual fuccefs ; other centuries 
 revolve, and other generations arife, but 
 ruftic manners remain unchanged, the 
 fame purfuits occupy the mind, and the 
 fame toys interefl and beguile. There were, 
 tc Ribbands of all the colors ith' rain- 
 " bow. Dancing and mufic, ballads all piti* 
 " ful and true, one of a fifti that appeared 
 c< upon the coaft, on Wednefday the four- 
 <c fcore of April, forty thoufand fadom 
 <{ above water/' Autolicus with all his 
 rhetoric could not more artfully have dis- 
 played his wares, nor could the following 
 lines have had a better effect on his audi- 
 tors than the tricks prefented here. 
 
 C 2 " Lawn
 
 ( *» ) 
 
 " Lawn as white as driven fnow, 
 
 " Cyprus, black as e'er was crowi 
 
 *' Gloves as fweet as d imafk rofes, 
 
 <c Mafks for faces, and for nofes ; 
 
 ** Bugle bracelets, necklace amber, 
 
 11 Perfume fo r a lady's chamber ; 
 
 " Golden quoifs, and ftomachers, 
 
 " For my lads to givs their dears ; 
 
 " Pins and poking-fticks of fteel, 
 
 " What maids lack from head to heal : 
 
 W Come, buy of me, come : come, buy, come, buyg, 
 
 " Buy, lads, or elfe your lafTes cry : come buy." 
 
 Builth is happily encompaffed with a 
 range of hills that afford fhelter to the place, 
 and fcreen the neighbouring woods with 
 which it is enriched. On the fkirt of the 
 town Hand the remains of an ancient caftle; 
 they comprife near four acres of ground, 
 and though not fufficiently matted to form 
 an object for the pencil, yet the remaining 
 fragments convey a general idea o f its for- 
 mer dignity. 
 
 The eminence which is contiguous to 
 
 the
 
 ( « ) 
 
 the remains of the fortrefs, denotes what the 
 Romans called the Prefidium. This caftle is 
 reported to have been erected by the Breofes 
 and Mortimers, after the demolition of a 
 former one by Rhys ap GryfFydh. Ptolomy 
 calls the town of Builth, Bullaeum Silurum, 
 from whence it derived its name, but Doctor 
 Horiely is inclined to think that the ancient 
 Bullaeum of Antoninus, was at Ufke in 
 Monmouthihire, from the ruins of g, 
 Roman fort, or city, being found there. 
 The neighbourhood of that place is flill 
 called Bualht, 
 
 Traversing the vicinity of the caftle, 
 our Welfh guide pointed out to us a field 
 at about two miles diftance, called Cavan, in 
 which Prince Llewellyn is reported to have 
 been buried, and fo fertile he obferved was 
 the foil, that each item bore two heads of 
 corn. 
 
 From
 
 ( «« ) 
 
 From the fame authority, we are told that 
 as that Prince was one day croffing the field 
 in difguife, he afked of an old woman the 
 name of a fmall brook that ran acrofs it, 
 who replied, it was called Nantytrrad, 
 then faid he, let it in future be named 
 Cwm Llewellyn, for that mall be the burial 
 place of that Prince. Where is there a 
 Welchmen who does not deplore the lofs of 
 his brave Llewellyn ? but our guide drew 
 much confolation from their being yet a 
 good Prince of Wales, who in the hour of 
 need, would certainly defend and fight for 
 his countrymen. Llewellyn is reported to 
 have been murthered in a fmall caftle that 
 flood at a place called Llechryd, about 
 one mile from Buiith, while he was medi- 
 tating his efcape into Glamorganfhire. A 
 modern houfe, with a moat furrounding it 
 that includes about three acres, marks the 
 fpot whereon the caftle flood. Buiith Caftle 
 is well htuated for defence, it flands on an 
 
 eminence,
 
 ( *3 ) 
 
 eminence, and the point of land, is in part 
 furrounded by the beautiful river Irvon, 
 which in a femicircular direction winds its 
 courfe into the Wye, about half a mile 
 above the town. This river is of confider- 
 able width, and derives its fource from 
 the hills in the vicinity of Strata Florida 
 in the county of Cardigan j thence after 
 taking a fouth weft direction it winds to- 
 wards the north eaft, and falls into the Wye 
 near Builth, Within a fmall diftance of 
 its junction with our river, it receives a 
 brook called the Wevery, which rifes on the 
 Brecknockfhire hills abought eight miles 
 diftant, and produces remarkable high fla- 
 voured falmon and trout 4 
 
 Near to the Wye a new ftone bridge is 
 building over the Irvon, contiguous to the 
 old one which was of wood. This new 
 ftruclure confifts of fix eliptical arches ; it 
 is erecting at the joint expence of the coun- 
 ties
 
 C *4 ) 
 
 ties of Brecon and Radnor. The elevated 
 ipan of the upper circle of this bridge, how- 
 ever neceflary here from the great floods 
 that happen in the winter fealoii, is yet a tafte 
 too prevalent in the general con u ruction of 
 our bridges. The bed of the upper furface 
 is ufually fo high as to become a large 
 fegment of a circle ; this cufrom militates 
 not only againft every principal of utility to 
 the horfe and traveller, but fhuts out the ge- 
 neral profpec~t, which even by an artift whofe 
 ideas are not too narrowly confined to his 
 own fcience, mould in a country like this 
 be made an object of fome consideration. 
 
 In Italy and France, a contrary fyftem 
 has very judicioufly been adopted, by which 
 means, in every point of view the eye finds 
 relief from the dtverfified fcenery around. 
 This practice is fupported by the claffical 
 productions of the elegant Claude Lorraine, 
 who, whether he defigns from nature, or has 
 
 recouife
 
 ( »s ) 
 
 recourfe to his own refined ideas of his art, 
 always adheres to this principle. Near Builth 
 are the remains of Llandrindod-wells, once in 
 high efteem, and celebrated for their excellent 
 medicinal quality. This fpring of water 
 irTues out of the fide of a rock, which is of 
 the flate kind, it is ftrongly impregnated with 
 nitrous fait, fulphur, and freel ; and produces 
 an effect fimilar to the waters of Scarborough 
 and Cheltenham, but it is of a more power- 
 fully quality. The wells are now greatly in 
 decay, and confequently are not fo much fre- 
 quented as formerly, On a high hill named 
 Caven Durris, about a mile from Builth, 
 David Thomas, Efq; has erecled a handfome 
 flone refidence, which when viewed from the 
 town, appears too much expofed, but on 
 a near approach, is found to be happily 
 fcreened from the northern winds by the fur- 
 rounding hills : It command a very noble 
 and extenfive view, as well on its own level 
 towards the South, as from that part which 
 
 D looks
 
 Jooks down towards the town of Builth, and 
 at the fame time includes a beautiful com- 
 mand of the meandering courfe of the rivers 
 Wye and Irvon, and of the extenfive bridge 
 of Builth in the vale beneath. This bridge 
 is a fimple and well conftructed modern edi- 
 fice, confifting of fix arches, within a mile of 
 which a fmall river called the Dihono having 
 a fmall bridge of one arch thrown over it, 
 empties itfelf into the Wye. From the ferry 
 a little below, a beautiful reach of the river 
 terminates in a view of the fmall remains of 
 Aberadway caftle, of which no hiftory is to 
 be traced. Its ruin is very infignificant, little 
 more than a flone wall, now ever grown with 
 ivy remains. At the extremity of it are the 
 fragments of two round towers. Thefc 
 rude fpecimens of art, are finely con- 
 tracted by the adjoining and truly wonder- 
 ful productions of nature. Thefe are an im- 
 menfe range of rocks running parrallel with 
 the river, exhibiting a variety of the moil 
 
 ftrangc
 
 ( *7 ) 
 
 itrange and fantaftic forms imaginable. In 
 different points of view, they convey to the 
 mind, the idea of fo many towers and catties 
 fhooting from amidfl the oak coppices and 
 other fhiubs that inrich this majeftic fce- 
 nery. Thefe vaft prominencies in their va- 
 rious fhapes, received at the inftant of view- 
 ing them, additional grandeur and effecl 
 from the folemn (hade, produced by a decli- 
 ning fun, and prefented a fcene truly wor- 
 thy the pencil of a Salvator, or amongft our 
 countrymen, his rival, the late John Morti- 
 mer. Near this charming fpot, the river 
 Edwa, from which thefe rocks derive their 
 .name, empties itfelf into our river. For 
 a confiderable diflance in paffing down the 
 Wye, we have on a fmaller fcale perpe- 
 tual breaks of the fame rocky kind of 
 fcenery till we reach Llangoed, the feat of 
 Mr. Edwards j from hence we ride through 
 a charming wood of young oaks, ranged 
 for a confiderable diflance on an elevated 
 
 D 2 bank;
 
 ( *8 ) 
 
 bank of the Wye, they give at each breal^ 
 and opening, an enchanting view of our 
 beautiful and picturefque river, which on 
 the approach to a village called Swains, 
 about a mile diftant, wears the appearance 
 of an extenfive bay, while the mountains in 
 the back ground gradually recede, and the 
 general face of the landfcape aflumes a new 
 character. In the annexed view of Glafe- 
 bury, the fcene when contrafted with that 
 at Aberedway or at Builth, will befl illuf- 
 trate this idea, here all around wears an 
 air of placidity j the river's rocky bed no, 
 more agitates the water in its courfe, it flows 
 a tranquil and a gentle ftream, reflected on 
 whofe glafly furface under the evening's 
 lengthening fhade 
 
 " Down bend its banks, the trees depending grow 5 
 " And fkies beneath with anfw'ring colors glow. 
 
 In the midft of this rich and beautiful 
 valley, an elegant Hone bridge of {even 
 
 arches
 
 ( 2 9 ) 
 
 arches is thrown acrofs the river. It was 
 built about fourteen years ago by the family 
 qf Edwards, under the direction of their 
 father, the celebrated architect of Pont-y- 
 pridd. The adjoining view was made in 
 Auguft, 1794 i in the enfuing winter the 
 bridge was totally deftroyed, which will in 
 in fome degree give value to this fketch, 
 as a memorial of that which is at prefent, 
 little more than a wreck ; every arch of 
 it having been blown up by the torrent 
 pf ice, which poured down on the very fud- 
 den thaw, after the long frofl in the begin- 
 ing of 1795. 
 
 SEC-
 
 ( 3« ) 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 Kj N our approach to the town of Hay, 
 we pafs its fmall church, fituated on a high 
 and clayey bank of the river, from whence 
 the town and adjoining objects, afford little 
 worthy the attention of the artift. To pre- 
 face this feclion, I have therefore felected a 
 general view of the town and furrounding 
 country, from a fpot about a mile below the 
 bridge, which prefents a fcene highly en- 
 riched by an afiemblage of woods, meadows, 
 and corn fields, at once extenfive, and in a 
 peculiar degree interefting. 
 
 The town is happily fituated on the 
 declivity of a hill, on which the houfes rifing 
 gradually, convey the idea of a place of in- 
 finitely more confequence than really it pof- 
 fefTes, and in no fmall degree gives the ge- 
 neral
 
 C 3* ) 
 
 tteral outline of an Italian Iandfcape. f h£ 
 face of this fcenery and bridge is fully illus- 
 trative of the pofition laid down in the lafl 
 feclion, of the fuperior beauty of flat bridges 
 over thofe that are elevated. This bridge 
 is formed of feven arches and in the year 
 1795, met with a fimilar fate to the prece- 
 ding one, and which were thrown acrofs 
 the torrents that pour themfelves along the 
 vallies of this mountainous country. 
 
 The purple hue of the diftance called 
 the black mountains* affords a good back- 
 ground to this fcenery, which is heightened 
 by the rich glow of a noon-tide fun, dart- 
 ing at the inftant, and giving force and re- 
 lief to every object. Thefe mountains ex* 
 tend fourteen or fifteen miles towards a 
 place called Monmouth Cap, about eight 
 miles from Abergavenny. The head of 
 water in the fore groud of the view, is 
 formed from a fmall river called Boonewayne 
 
 Brook,
 
 ( 33 ) 
 
 Brook, which fupplies the neigbouring mill 
 with water ; the goat who flood browfing 
 on a high bank of the river before us, was 
 an object we were not accuftomed to meet, 
 with even in Wales, as I do not remember 
 to have ken more than three, in the courfo 
 of a long tour through this country. 
 
 The town of Hay was formerly called 
 Hain, it derives its name from the Britifli 
 word Tregclhi, which, fays Camben " may 
 " be rendered Hafely, or Hafleton 5 it ap- 
 " pears to have been well known to the 
 * c Romans, fome remains of their walls 
 " being ftill viable, and many of their coins 
 " having been found here." He likewife 
 fays " the ancient town was confumed 
 <c by fire by the profligate rebel, Owen 
 " Glyndwr or Glendower, in his marches 
 u through this country." Our divine bard 
 has put the following lines into the mouth 
 
 E of
 
 ( 34 ) 
 
 of Glendower, when ipeaking of his anta> 
 gonifh 
 
 " Three times hath Henry Bolingbroke made head 
 <c Againft my pow'r, thrice from the banks of lfye t 
 " And fandy-bottom'd Severn, have I fent 
 " Him bootlefs home, and weather-beaten back." 
 
 This place anciently belonged to Wil- 
 liam de Brus, Lord of Brecknock, and was 
 nearly deftroyed by Lewis, Dauphin of 
 France, in 1216, who had been invited into 
 England by the Barons difaffected to King 
 John. 
 
 The town of Hay is fituated on the ex- 
 treme angle of Brecknockfhire, and on the 
 borders of Herefordfhire. Near the church, 
 on the higheil land on the brink of the ri- 
 ver, there anciently flood a cattle built by 
 the Normans, of which little more now 
 remains than a mound of earth, and the en- 
 trench-
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 trenchments that furround it. The prefent 
 caftle ftands nearly in the centre of the 
 town. Its Gothic entrance, and the Ivy 
 over-growing the remains of the ancient 
 tower, produce a ftriking effect on the ap- 
 proach to this venerable ruin. 
 
 A large houfe adjoining, is the pro- 
 perty of Richard Wellington, Efq j It is 
 erected on the fite of the old caftle, and ap- 
 pears to have been the work of the age of 
 James I. Within a few years, it has been 
 modernized, by which it has in fome degree 
 been ftripped of that fmall fhare of the pic- 
 turefque, that in fome inftances is to be 
 found even in that barbarous age of archi- 
 tecture. As the caftle is not generally no- 
 ticed by the traveller, nor has any print that 
 I can learn, ever yet been given of it, the 
 annexed view may not prove unacceptable to 
 the curious enquirer. On quitting Hay, 
 the Wye receives a considerable body of 
 
 E 2 water
 
 ( 3« ) 
 
 water from the river Dulas, acrofs which is 
 a ftone bridge of one arch. Thus afiifted, 
 our river becomes a copious ftream, and has 
 been long rendered navigable in the winter 
 feafons. For this purpofe two flatutes 
 were paffed in parliament, the one in the 
 fourteenth of Charles II. the other in the 
 feventh of William III. 
 
 About two miles below the town, the 
 ruin of the once famous Clifford cattle pre- 
 fents itfelf ; it frauds on a confiderable emi- 
 nence on the bank of the Wye, is well fitu- 
 ated for defence, and forms a boundary to 
 the weflern part of the county of Hereford, 
 Its walls are not fufficiently high, nor are 
 the parts fo broken and irregular as to afford 
 a complete piclurefque object, but it has yet 
 confiderable attractions to merit the notice 
 of the fpeculative and inquifitive traveller, 
 Camden lays, that it is recorded in doom's-. 
 day book, to have been built by William. 
 
 Fitzofborn.
 
 ( 37 ) 
 
 Fitzofborn, Earl of Hereford. It came after- 
 wards to Walter, the fon of Richard de 
 Ponts, a Norman, who came into England 
 with William the Conqueror, Walter took 
 his name of De Clifford from this caftle, and 
 from him defcended the illuftrious family 
 of the earls of Cumberland. We fhall not 
 enter into a detail of the warlike exploits 
 performed in this place, but confine our- 
 felves to the well known ftory of fair Ro- 
 famond, daughter of an earl of Clifford, 
 who was born in this caftle. The ftory, 
 whether fabulous or true, has been deemed 
 not unworthy the attention, both of the 
 poet and hiftorian. Mafter Hollinfhead in 
 his ufual quaintnefs of ftyie, thus fpeaks of 
 King Henry the fecond's incontinence, and 
 of his particular attachment to the fair 
 Rofamond, " for not contented with the 
 " ufe of his wife, he kept many concubines, 
 < c but namely lie delited moil in the com- 
 
 " panic
 
 ( 3» ) 
 
 " panie of a pleafant damofell, whome he 
 " 'cleped the rofe of the world, the common 
 " people named hir Rofamond, for hir pairing 
 " beautie, propernefle of perfon, and plea- 
 ' f fant wit, with other amyable qualities, 
 " being verily a rare and peerelefTe peece in 
 " thofe days. He made for hir an houfe 
 " at Woodftocke in Oxfordfhire, like to a 
 " laberinth, that is to meane, wrought like 
 " a knot in a garden, called a maze, with 
 cc fuch turnings and windings in and out, 
 " that no creature might finde her nor 
 <£ come to hir, except he were inftruc~ted by 
 the king, or fuch as were fecrete with him 
 in that matter. But the common report 
 of the people is, that the queene finally 
 found her out by a filke thread, whiche 
 " the king had drawne forth of hir chamber 
 * £ with his foote, and dealte with hir in fuch 
 V lharpe and cruell wife, that me lyved not 
 <; long after. She was buried in the Nun- 
 
 " lie 
 
 u 
 
 . t 
 
 :-
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 " rie of Godflow befide Oxforde, with thefc 
 C{ verfes upon hir tumbe. " 
 
 * c Hie jacet in tumulo, Rofamundi non Rofamunda, 
 ** Non redolet fed olet, quae redolere folet." 
 
 We cannot quit this fubjecl, the family 
 of the De Cliffords, without adverting to 
 another of its noble defcendants, George Clif- 
 ford, the third earl of Cumberland, who in 
 1525, was advanced to the dignity of an earL 
 The feats of this adventurous and renowned 
 warrior, are tranfmitted to us by various 
 hiftorians, and though to many perfons they 
 may be well known, yet fome mention of 
 him in this place, may not be thought irre- 
 levant to our fubjecl:. This nobleman was 
 one of the peers who fat in judgment on 
 Mary Queen of Scots, and became after- 
 wards a great favourite of her coufm Eliza- 
 beth.
 
 ( 4o ) 
 
 beth. He fignalized himfelf highly at fea* 
 in various engagements againft the Spa- 
 niards, and behaved with much intrepidity 
 during the memorable encounter with the 
 invincible Armada. In confequence of his 
 gallantry the Queen created him an Admi- 
 ral, and a few years after, a Knight of 
 the Garter; he was likewife one of the 
 lords fent out with the forces to reduce the 
 Earl of EfTex. He died in London at 
 the Savoy, at the age of forty feven, in 
 the year 1605. 
 
 We cannot pafs over a ftriking inftance 
 of gallantry, in this extraordinary hero, as 
 recorded by Mr. Pennant, which appears 
 fully to keep pace with his bravery as a 
 naval commander. " At an audience, 
 '* which the earl had after one of his 
 " expeditions, Queen Elizabeth, perhaps 
 H defrgnedly, dropped one of her gloves. 
 
 His
 
 ( 41 ) 
 
 " His lordfhip took it up, and prefented it 
 ,£ to her j upon winch Hie gracioufiy de- 
 " fired him to keep it as a mark of her 
 " efteem. He adorned the glove with dia- 
 <£ monds, and wore it in the front of his 
 " high crowned hat on days of tour- 
 " nament." This circumftance is recorded 
 in a very curious and rare print of the earl, 
 engraved by Robert White, in which the 
 glove appears. Another inftance of the 
 queen's favor to this earl of Cumberland, 
 was, her appointing him her champion in 
 her tilting matches, in which exercife he 
 excelled all the nobility of his time. His 
 magnificent armour worn in this age of chi- 
 valry, was adorned with rofcs and fleur de 
 lis, and is now preferved at Appleby Caftle 
 in Weftmoreland. He married Margaret, 
 third daughter of Francis earl of Bedford, 
 by whom he had three children, two fons 
 who died young, and a daughter named 
 
 F Anne,
 
 ( 4* ) 
 
 Anne, who was fucceffively married to Ri- 
 chard earl of Dorfet, and to Philip earl of 
 Pembroke and Montgomery. 
 
 This lady appears by the following 
 letter to have inherited with the family 
 eftates, all the bravery and fpirit of her 
 great anceflors. Sir Jofeph Williamfon, 
 when fecretary of flate to Charles the II. 
 wrote to the Countefs, wifhing to name a 
 candidate to her for the borough of Ap- 
 pleby, to which fhe returned the following 
 fpirited anfwer " I have been bullied by an 
 <c u fur per, I have been neglected by a court, 
 " but I will not be dictated to by a fubject. 
 * 4 Your man fhan't fland." 
 
 " AN N E, DORSET; 
 " Pembroke and Montgomery." 
 
 Dr.
 
 ( 43 ) 
 
 Dr. Campbell, in his Philofophy of 
 Rhetoric, highly commends the expreflion 
 of this letter, he fays, " an ordinary fpirit 
 " would have employed as many pages to 
 " exprefs the fame thing, as there are af- 
 if firmations in this fhort letter." Of this 
 extraordinary lady, Dr. Donne remarked, 
 '* that in her younger years, fhe knew well 
 " how to difcourfe of all things, from pre- 
 " deftination, to flea-filk." 
 
 From this digreflion, which we hope will 
 not prove uninterefling, we return again to 
 the main fubject of our enquiry. 
 
 The winding and mazy courfe of the 
 Wye in about two miles, brings us to 
 Whitney, where, in 1794, the piers and 
 part of the arches of a new ftone bridge 
 were in great forwardnefs, but in the fuc- 
 ceeding fpring, the whole was fwept away 
 
 F 2 by
 
 ( 44 ; 
 
 by that fudden thaw and torrent, whofe de- 
 vastations we have more than once had oc- 
 cafion to notice. In this unfiniflied ftate, 
 the bufy fcenery of the various artificers 
 at work, a ferry boat perpetually in motion, 
 and the diftant village church, peeping above 
 the hills in the back ground, produced alto* 
 gether a fubject well worthy the pencil ; but 
 from the confined nature of this work, and 
 the abundant rich, and luxuriant fcenery, we 
 have yet to difplay, we feel it impofllble to 
 infert every object in picture, however highly 
 it may merit our notice in defcription. Paf- 
 fing feveral beautiful villages, we reach WiU 
 lerfley, in the vicinity of which, the extenfive 
 
 range of Merbidge Hills afforded us, from 
 their fummit, a grand and extenfive view of 
 
 the furrounding country. Another noble 
 
 object prefents itfelf in this neighbourhood, 
 
 which bears the name of Brobery's Scar : its 
 
 principal attractions are the bold and ma^ 
 
 jectic
 
 ( 45 ) 
 
 jeftic ronghnefTes of its form, that contrail 
 beautifully with the views, more immedi- 
 ately upon the eye, on the bank of our river. 
 Hence, amidft a profufion of rich and beau- 
 tiful fcenery, at a place called Rhydfpence, 
 the river quits Radnorihire, and glides its 
 eafy courfe towards Bradwardin. This town 
 flands on an eafy afcent on the bank of 
 the Wye, and prefents itfelf in a happy point 
 of view above the bridge, the northern bank 
 of the river rifes to a confiderable height, 
 and is richly cloathed with (h rubbery. In 
 the annexed view we have aimed at a repre- 
 fentation of this beautiful and romantic 
 fcene. The river here acquires a confider- 
 able width, and though in a dry feafon, 
 has a proportionable depth of water. In 
 this vicinity there was formerly a caftle, of 
 which very little remains. This place gave 
 birth, and name to the famous Thomas 
 Bradwardin, Archbifliop of Canterbury, 
 
 who,
 
 ( 46 ) 
 
 who, from his variety of knowledge and 
 proficiency in the abftrufe branches of learn- 
 ing, obtained his title of Doctor Profundus. 
 Below this village we glided down this deep 
 and majeftic flream, amidfl a rich and fertile 
 country, till we reached Mocca's Court, the 
 feat of Sir George Cornwall, Bart. It is plea- 
 fantly fituated on an eminence, on the fou- 
 thern bank of the Wye, within a fpacious 
 park, and commands a full and extenfive 
 view of the beautiful meanderings of the 
 river. 
 
 This place was anciently called Moches t 
 and formed a part of the poffeflions of 
 St. Guthlach, in the City of Hereford. 
 The ancient houfe Hood below the fite of 
 the prefent, which is a modern flructure, 
 and was in part built from the ruin of 
 Bredwardin Caftle. In defcending towards 
 Hereford we paffed a variety of elegant 
 
 villas,
 
 ( 47 ) 
 
 Villas, rich in fituation, and very happily 
 fele&ed as fummer refidences ; amongft thefe 
 Belmont, the feat of Dr. Matthews, is pecu- 
 liarly worthy of attention. The views from 
 hence, in each direction of the river, are 
 highly attractive, and art and nature under 
 the guidance of tafte, are happily combined 
 to produce a rich and beautiful effecl. 
 
 SEC-
 
 ( 49 ) 
 
 SECTION. IV. 
 
 _1 H I S view of the ancient bridge and 
 venerable cathedral of Hereford, affords the 
 moil: piclurefque, and ftriking combination 
 of objects, that came within our obfervation. 
 The bridge is of (lone, and con fills of eight 
 Gothic arches, it is evidently of great anti- 
 quity, but at what period it was built, his- 
 tory affords little information on which we 
 can rely. Leland conjectures that it was 
 erecled about the fame time with the caftle, 
 that is, foon after the conquefl. 
 
 The prefent beautiful cathedral, fays 
 Camden, " was founded by bifhop Reinelm, 
 " in 1079, in the reign of Henry I. and by 
 " his fuccefTors was enlarged, by adding to it 
 " a neat college and fine houfes for the pre- 
 " bendaries." The BiQiop, he likewife fays, 
 * G " has
 
 ( 5° > 
 
 " has three hundred and two churches in lib 
 diocefe." The revenues of the bifhopric were 
 valued, in the 26th of Henry VIII. at eight 
 hundred and thirty one pounds fourteen (hil- 
 lings and a penny. The prefent venerable 
 flruclure has undergone many changes, and 
 has been greatly encreafed and beautified by 
 feveral of its bifhops fince its firft erection, 
 a- circumstance that naturally followed from 
 the immenfe expenfe attending fuch an un- 
 dertaking, which muft at any period have 
 greatly exceeded the income, even of the 
 wealthier! abbot or biihop that the church 
 bus yet known. The fimilarity of parts in 
 the ftyle of its architecture, has induced fome 
 perfons to conjecture that it was all built at 
 the fame period : this I judge could not 
 have been the cafe, there is more reafon ta 
 believe that the earlier! forms feived as a 
 model for future ages to work upon. It has 
 undergone fhameful depredations : the chief 
 of which were occafioned by the puritanical- 
 principles
 
 ( 5' ) 
 
 principles of the laft century, when a blind 
 •zeal upon religious fubjects devoted the 
 moll beautiful and venerable veftiges of an- 
 tiquity to ruin and deftruction, as abomi- 
 nations hateful in the eyes of God and man. 
 The form of the arches feems to indicate 
 that the earlier part of this building was 
 erected about the sera of the Saxon archi- 
 tecture ; its columns are peculiarly pon- 
 derous and maffive, they appear to have 
 been erected ct not for an age, but for all 
 <c time." Some monuments of their bifhops 
 ftill remain, amongft which, in the north 
 wing is the fhrine of bifhop Cantilupe. 
 The monument of the family of the Bo- 
 huns, in the library is curious, and deferves 
 the attention of the antiquary : a recumbent 
 figure is laying beneath a pointed Gothic 
 arch, round which are a number of hogs, 
 covered with a kind of body cloth, on 
 which are painted the arms of the family, 
 each hog having before him an apple to 
 
 G 2 which
 
 ( 5* ) 
 
 which he feems fmelling. This ancient fa- 
 mily of the Bohuns and the Lacies earls of 
 Hereford, are faid by fome writers to have 
 been the founders of Hereford caftle, which 
 Leland afTerts " to have been one of the 
 " f aire ft, largeft, and ftrongeft in England/* 
 The preceding view of Hereford was made 
 in the fummer of 1794, at which time the 
 tower of the cathedral was furrounded with 
 a fcaffold, and the whole of the building 
 under a thorough repair, from the dreadful 
 accident that happened in the year 1786 : 
 On the 17th day of April in that year, 
 about half paft fix in the evening, the weft 
 tower of the cathedral with part of the 
 body of the church unfortunately fell down. 
 The above accident did not happen with- 
 out giving evident figns of gradual decay, 
 both from the dropping of many ftones, 
 and the fettling of the arches, which had 
 been remarked for two or three years pre- 
 vious to the event. This dreadful cataf- 
 
 trophe
 
 ( 53 ) 
 
 trophe was diffidently forefeen to prevent 
 any fatal confequences. No lives were 
 loft though many perfons were pafling the 
 church yard at the time, and we of this day 
 have the lefs reafon to deplore the accident, 
 as the rulers of this church, have had the 
 good fenfe to make ufe of the rare talents of 
 an architect, whole knowledge of the Gothic, 
 and natural tafte for grandeur and fimpli- 
 city, fo peculiarly fitted him for the office 
 of rcftoring this venerable fabric to its true 
 characleriftical dignity, and who does not 
 appear to have deviated from the original 
 defign, where it was poflible to conform to it. 
 One principal improvement has been the 
 removing fome walls that encircled a mate- 
 rial part of the church, by which means 
 a view was opened, of two beautiful cha- 
 pels, called Stanbury and Audley, that had 
 been long concealed from the public eye. 
 
 Mr. Wyat's eftimate of the repair of 
 
 this
 
 ( 54 ) 
 
 this building was feven thoufand pounds, five 
 thoufand of which was raifed by fubferip- 
 tion. But I am imformed that to complete 
 this repair, the whole expenfe will amount to 
 at lead thirteen thoufand pounds. 
 
 This magnificent ftructure has ever been 
 confidered by the antiquary, notwithstanding 
 its irregularity, as a fplendid fpecimen of the 
 piety and munificence of our early church- 
 men ; and the arched roof of the upper crofs 
 aide, fupported by a fingle pillar, is peculi- 
 arly cleferving attention. Tradition fays, it 
 was erected in the reien of William Rufus, 
 by Robert de Lozinga, fecond bifhop of the 
 fee of Hereford. The height of the tower 
 was one hundred and twenty- five feet, upon 
 which was a lofty fpire, that has, fince the 
 accident, been taken down. 
 
 * 
 
 On the fite on which this cathedral 
 ilands there was anciently a church, founded 
 
 durin 
 
 rr 
 O
 
 ( 55 ) 
 
 during the zenith of the Saxon heptarchy 
 about the ninth century, foon after which 
 it became a cathedral, and Hereford was 
 made the fee of a bifhop. The cathedral 
 was dehroyed, and the city facked in the 
 reign of Edward the Confeflbr, by Grif- 
 fin prince of South Wales who made the 
 bifhop prifoner. At the Norman invafion 
 the city was in ruins, and within its walls 
 and the fuburbs, there were not, according 
 to doomfday book, more than one hundred 
 and three men. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the cathedral 
 ftands the vicar's college, it forms a fquare, 
 within which is a plain but venerable cloifter. 
 From its elevated fituation, it commands a 
 beautiful view of the meandering courfe of 
 our river Wye, and its fertile and verdant 
 banks. Although it is not the profefTed in- 
 tention of this work to enter into a minute 
 hiflory of cities, or towns, yet the anti- 
 quity
 
 ( 56 ) 
 
 quity of this venerable place demands our 
 attention, and cannot be pafTed over in 
 filence, we fhall therfore mention the once 
 elegant building of the chapter houfe, of 
 which, though but a fmall fragment pre- 
 fents itfelf, there is yet fufficient of the 
 picturefque to attract the notice of the 
 curious traveller, nor can the remains of 
 the Black Fryers with its beautiful crofs, or 
 rather ftone pulpit, be paffed unnoticed, 
 the latter is here preferved in a wood cut 
 from a fketch made on the fpot in 1 794. 
 
 The
 
 ( 57 ) 
 
 The building is Hexagonal, open at 
 every fide, and round it is a flight of fix 
 fteps. The fhaft of the crofs which is bro- 
 ken off, refts on a table of the fame form 
 in the centre of the building, and fpreads 
 itfelf towards the roof in ramifications 
 that produce a very beautiful effects Some 
 of the embattlemcnts yet remain on the 
 upper part of the building, the whole 
 of which appears to have been finifhed 
 with great care and elegance. From this 
 building, fermons were delivered by the 
 fryers, who were then extremely popular, 
 to the multitude who were fheltered un- 
 der the cloifter, that it is prefumed, fur- 
 rounded this building. An hofpital in 
 1 6 14, was founded on the fite whereon 
 Hood the black fryars, by Sir Thomas 
 Coningfby of Hampton Court, in this 
 county, who was then proprietor of the 
 ruins, and by him it was endowed with 
 confiderable eftates in Leicefterihire, and 
 
 H was
 
 C 58 ) 
 
 was intended as a relief to the worti out 
 foldier and fuperannuated faithful fervanti 
 
 The city of Hereford, appears by its 
 remaining walls, to have been well and 
 regularly fortified, and its caftle muft have 
 been a very capital fortrefs. The fite 
 whereon it Hood retains the name of Caflie 
 Green, and affords a pleafant retreat, com- 
 manding a very beautiful view of the river 
 beneath and of the furrounding country. 
 This being a remarkable dry feafon, barges 
 have been laying at Hereford for upwards 
 four months, for want of water to carry 
 them down. 
 
 The principal articles of navigation are 
 timber, bark, and grain, and the back car- 
 riage, is coals from Ledbrook and other 
 places below Rofs. Hereford is not favour- 
 ably fituated for manufactures or commerce, 
 It is ill fupplied with fuel, and that not 
 
 good,
 
 ( 59 ) 
 
 good, and the uncertain flate of the river, 
 from its fhoals and great rapidity, prevents 
 that conftant and uniform navigation which 
 can alone fupport a regular and extenfive 
 trade. To remove thefe barriers, feveral at- 
 tempts, I am informed, have been made, but 
 the eftimate of expenfes has been fo enor- 
 mous, that the meafure has always proved 
 abortive. 
 
 Quitting Hereford, the Wye bends its 
 courfe round a point of land for a dis- 
 tance of near two miles, when we are again 
 brought almoft as near to the town, as 
 when we quitted it. The river as we 
 pafTed down, ltill continued its circuitous 
 windings, but with a more placid furface, 
 feldom meeting any obftruclion in its 
 courfe, from thofe rocky fubftances that 
 formed the grand characleriftic of the 
 ftream in its earlier ftages. The general 
 face of the country is rich in verdure, 
 
 H 2 and
 
 ( 60 ) 
 
 and the cattle grazing on the banks of 
 the river or laving in its dream, are objects 
 that perpetually contribute to enliven the 
 fceae. 
 
 About fix miles below Hereford, the 
 Wye receives the river Lug, one of the 
 three principal rivers in this county j it de- 
 rives its fource from the mountains in the 
 north eaft part of Radnor (hire, and running 
 eaft, through Herefordfhire to Leominfter, 
 takes a fouth eaft direction towards the 
 Wye ; in its courfe it is joined by feveral 
 fmaller ftreams, and on its near approach 
 to our river, becomes a ftream of consi- 
 derable magnitude. About a mile from 
 the bank of the Wye, this river runs 
 through the pleafant village of Mordiford, 
 and adds much to the picturefque fcenery of 
 the place. On the eaft end of the church 
 of Mordiford is reprefented in plafter, an 
 enormous dragon or ferpent, the hiftory of 
 
 which
 
 ( 6l ) 
 
 which is thus recorded. Some centuries ago, 
 we know not when, a dragon is reported 
 to have been the devourer of all the cattle 
 on the adjoining hills called OfFwood, and 
 was a monfter of fuch terrific qualities, that 
 no one could for a great length of time, be 
 found hold enough to undertake his deftruc- 
 tion, till at length a pardon being granted 
 to a comdemned ciiminal, on condition 
 that he would undertake it, he atchieved his 
 purpofe, by flaying the dragon as he was fo- 
 lacing himfelf in a cyder hogftiead. This 
 wonderful relation, feems to be generally cre- 
 dited by the people in the neighbourhood, 
 as no doubt it was at the building of this 
 edifice, or this ftrange monfter would not 
 have been reprefented in fo terrific a form, 
 and in fo confpicuous a place as the front of 
 the church. After relating this wonderful 
 circumftancc, may we be permitted to quote 
 another, not lefs fo from the learned Cam- 
 den, He fays, that <e near the conflux of 
 
 " the
 
 ( 6* ) 
 
 <c the Lug and the Wye, eaftward, a hill 
 " which they call Marcley hill, did in the 
 <c year 1575, roufe itfelf as it were out of 
 ic fleep, and for three days together, fnoving 
 " its prodigious body forward with a hor- 
 " rible roaring noife, and overturning every 
 " thing in its way, raifed itfelf (to the 
 " great aftonifhment of the beholders) to a 
 ff higher place j by that kind of earthquake, 
 <c I fuppofe, which the Naturalifts call Braf- 
 " matia." On a hill adjoining the village, 
 a large Irone houfe has been recently erected 
 by a Mr. Hereford, which deferves notice 
 from the extenfive and beautiful view it 
 commands of Hereford and the furrounding 
 country. 
 
 About a mile below Mordiford, we 
 pafs a large brick manfion belonging to the 
 Duke of Norfolk, called Holme Lacy, for- 
 merly the feat of the ancient family of the 
 Scudamores. On this fite flood an abbey 
 
 for
 
 ( 63 ) 
 
 for Premonftratenfian cannons, dedicated to 
 the Virgin Mary and Thomas a Becket, 
 founded by William Fitzwain in the be- 
 ginning of the reign of Henry the third; 
 the houfe is a flat uninterefting building, 
 but comprifes within its view a beautiful 
 and piclurefque profpect on the oppofite 
 flde of the river, called Fownhope. The 
 village is fituated amidfl a rich thicket of 
 verdant and woody fcenery, on an exten- 
 five (lope rifing from a rocky bank of the 
 Wye. 
 
 This richly diverfified hill, is at a pro- 
 per diftance from the eye, to enable it dis- 
 tinctly to mark the feveral fpecies of trees 
 of which it is compofed ; thefe cannot be 
 more aptly defcribed, than in the lines of 
 Dyer, on a fimilar fubjec~t, in his charming 
 poem of Grongar Hill. 
 
 <c 
 
 The
 
 ( 6+ ) 
 
 * c The gloomy pine, the poplar blue^ 
 
 " The yellow beech, the fable yew, 
 
 " The flender fir, that taper grows, 
 
 " The flurdy oak, with broad fpread boughs." 
 
 Amonst the few houfes that are fcat- 
 tered on this beautiful fcene, the principal 
 are thofe of Mr. Lechmere, and Mr. Pur- 
 chafe, who has a conuderable brewery here. 
 A little below the next bend of the river, a 
 range of hills called Capier hills, form a rich 
 fcreen to the northern bank of the Wye. 
 Thefe hills are upwards of a mile and a half 
 in length, and are principally covered with 
 oak trees, the foil which is of a reddiiTi 
 call, frequently breaks through the verdure 
 of its plantations, and gives a warm and 
 animated tinge to the landfcape. A high 
 road pafFes the fummit of thefe hills, that 
 commands a beautiful profpect of the fur- 
 rounding country, and the meandering river 
 beneath. Near Brookhampton on Capier 
 hill, is the remain of a very large fquare 
 
 camp,
 
 ( 65 ) 
 
 camp called Wobnry, it appears to be dou- 
 ble trenched, but narrow ard near half a 
 mile in length. About five years ago, near 
 three acres of thefe hills fell into the Wye 
 and narrowed its courfe, but it has from 
 that circumftance, obtained a more confider- 
 able depth than we have before witneffed 
 in this river, being now in a dry feafon, up- 
 wards of five feet deep. 
 
 On the left of the river, at Aram (lone, 
 is a tine view of the village of King's Ca- 
 ple fituated amidft: a beautiful aifemblage of 
 woods. Below this fpot on the oppofite 
 bank is Hare wood, the reiidence of the Hof- 
 kins's an ancient family in the county of 
 Hereford. This place is peculiarly worthy 
 notice, as it compofed part of the foreft of 
 Harewood, in which Ethelwold, king Edgar's 
 minifter had a caftle. Here Mafon fixed the 
 fcene, for his dramatic poem of Elfrida, and 
 thus he defcribes the fcene before us 
 
 I " How
 
 C 66 ) 
 
 <l How nobly docs this venerable wood, 
 
 " Gilt with the glories of the orient fun 
 
 " Embofom yon fair manfion ! the foft air 
 
 " Salutes me with moft cool and temp'rate breath ; 
 
 " And as I tread, the flow'r befprinkled lawn 
 
 " Sends up a gale of fragrance. I mould guefs, 
 
 " If e'er content deign'd vifit mortal clime, 
 
 " This was her place of deareft relidence." 
 
 From hence amidft a rich and woody 
 country, admitting from its famenefs little 
 variety worthy either the pen or pencil, we 
 purfued our courfe down the gentle flream 
 till we reached the pleafant village of Sel- 
 leck ; its church is of a fingular conftruc- 
 tion, and no lefs fo is that of an epitaph I 
 copied in the church yard, on the tomb- 
 Hone of one Richard Addis who died in 
 1788, aged 80. 
 
 " When Chrift come riding on the clouds 
 " To view the world abroad, 
 " Angels and faints crying aloud 
 " Rife dead and meet the Lord;" 
 
 On the oppofitc fice of the river, a 
 
 little
 
 ( 6/ ) 
 
 little below Harewood, is a fine grove of 
 trees called Capie Tump, where an annual 
 feftival is held from all the neighbouring 
 towns, and where 
 
 " AH the village train, from labor free, 
 
 " Lead up their fpoits beneath the fpreading tree." 
 
 About two miles below Selleck, we 
 were gratified with the mod beautiful and 
 luxuriant view of Rofs, that I believe the 
 country from any point affords. 
 
 SEC
 
 ( 69 ) 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 o 
 
 N the approach to Rofs, a fine amphi- 
 theatre of trees called Afhwood. fkirts the 
 fouthern bank of the Wye. From this 
 charming fpot, near three miles above Rofs, 
 The annexed view which comprehends the 
 principal objects that compofe the beauti- 
 ful in picture fque landfcape was fketched. 
 The town is fituated on the declivity of a 
 hill at a happy diftance, and not too obtrn- 
 five on the eye ; the rifing hills with which 
 it is fcreened give a boldnefs of character to 
 the fituation, nor is the winding of the ri- 
 ver, and verdure of the country that enrich 
 its banks, lefs charactereftic of this delight- 
 ful neighbourhood. The hill to the right of 
 the town is called the Chafe, and that on the 
 left, Penyard-wood, on which formerly flood 
 a caftle, faid to have been deftroyed in the 
 
 civil
 
 ( 7° ) 
 
 civil wars. The white fpire of Rofs 
 church " bofomed high in tufted trees'* 
 has at this diftance an effect peculiarly 
 pleafing, but on a nearer approach, the 
 town obtrudes too much on the eye, and 
 the piclurefque and beautiful, gradually 
 difappear. 
 
 Rofs, abftracled from its elevated and 
 delightful fituation, has little to render it 
 worthy attention ; the profpect from the 
 church yard a fpot to which the traveller 
 is generally conducted on his arrival, dis- 
 plays a very extenfive and inchanting land- 
 fcape both above and below the town. 
 
 The beautiful and meandering courfe of 
 the river beneath, enriched with pleafure 
 boats conftantly in motion, in their paffage 
 to and from Chepftow, gives life and beauty 
 to the fcene. Thefe boats are lightly con- 
 irrucled and are navigated by three men, ei- 
 ther
 
 ( 7' ) 
 
 ther wlfh or without a fail. The heavy 
 mafs of building called the Town Hall, 
 from its general appearance conveys a faint 
 idea of the worfl flyle of Saxon architec- 
 ture j it is a ponderous and unmeaning 
 heap of flone, huddled together in the 
 taftelefs reign of James the firft, by one 
 John Abel who erecled a fimilar building at 
 Hereford j they vie with each other in want 
 of tafle, and have nothing to render them 
 worthy notice but their abfurdity, which I 
 believe is not to be equalled by the dullefl 
 architect of that or any other period. At 
 one end of the building, intended I prefume 
 as an ornament, there is a nofelefs bull:, fup- 
 pofed to be that of the merry monarch 
 Charles the fecond. In fuch a flate of de- 
 cay is the flone of which this edifice is com- 
 pofed, together with the heavy flyle of its 
 architecture, that it has every appearance of 
 having been erecled as far back as the 
 time of the Saxons. 
 
 Not-
 
 ( n ) 
 
 Notwithstanding the difadvantage 
 under which this building labors, I have 
 yet confidered the general view of which it 
 forms a part as not devoid of intereft, it 
 comprizes the houfe in which the man of 
 Rofs refided till his death, now known by 
 the fign of the King's Arm Inn. As every 
 the mod trifling circumftance relative to a 
 character fo highly diftinguifhed by the pen 
 of Pope, and ftill more highly dignified by 
 the general voice of the people of Rofs be- 
 comes interesting, I have here thought fit 
 to give a view of the houfe in which he 
 refided, and the adjoining buildings. 
 
 To the benevolent John Kyrle, a name 
 aim oft loft in the fuperior title of the 
 Good Man of Rofs this town owes moil 
 of its improvements and charitable infti- 
 tutions. 
 
 He was born at Whitehoufe, in the 
 
 parifti
 
 > 
 
 V 
 
 ^ 
 
 s-. ^ 
 
 fc. 
 
 \ 
 
 is. 
 
 * -v   
 
 v
 
 ( 73 ) 
 
 parlfh of Dymock, in the county of Here- 
 ford in 1637, ferved the office of fherirT for 
 the county in 1683, and died in 1724. 
 
 From an income of only five hundred 
 pounds a year, this good man appears to 
 have derived every happinefs to himfelf and 
 to have diffufed it with uncommon bene- 
 volence to all around him. This exem- 
 plary character has been fo intereftingly 
 delineated by the pen of Pope, that the in- 
 troduction of the following lines although 
 well known, will need no apology for their 
 infertion in this work. 
 
 Rife honefl: mufe ! and fing the Man of Rofs : 
 
 Pleas'd Vaga echoes thro' her winding bounds, 
 
 And rapid Severn hoarfe applaufe refounds. 
 
 Who hung With woods yon mountain's fultry brow ? 
 
 From the dry rock, who bade the waters flow ? 
 
 Not to the fkies in ufelefs columns toft, 
 
 Or in proud falls magnificently lo^, 
 
 But clear, and artlcfs, pouring thro' the plain 
 
 Health to the fick, and folace to the fwain. 
 
 K " Whofe
 
 ( 74 ) 
 
 ct Whofc caufe-way parts the vale with fhady rows ' 
 
 tl Whofe feats the weary traveller repofe I 
 
 '* Who taught the heaven directed fpire to rife ? 
 
 " The Man of Rofs> each lifping babe replies. 
 
 <c Behold the market-place with poor o'erfpread ! 
 
 " The Alan of Rofs divides the weekly bread ; 
 
 " He feeds yon alms-houfe, neat, but void of ftate, 
 
 <c Where age, and want fit fmiling at the gate ; 
 
 " Him portion'd maids, apprentic'd orphans blefr, 
 
 " The young who labor, and the old who reft. 
 
 " Is any fick ? the Alan of Rofs relieves, 
 
 u Prescribes, attends, the medicine makes, and gives/' 
 
 " Is there a variance ? enter but his door, 
 
 " Balk'd are the courts, and contefr is no more. 
 
 " Defpairing Quacks with curfes fled the place, 
 
 " And vile Attorneys, now an ufelefs race. 
 
 J3." Thrice happy man ! enabled to purfue 
 
 " What all fo wifh, but want the power to do ! 
 " Oh fay, what fums that gen'rous hand fupply ? 
 " What mines to fwell that boundlefs charity ? 
 
 P." Of debts and taxes, wife and children clear, 
 " This man pofTcft — five hundred pounds a year. 
 " Blufh, grandeur, blufh ! proud courts withdraw your 
 blaze, 
 Ye little ftars ! hide your diminifhed rays. 
 
 « 
 
 B." And what ? no monument, infcnption, itone? 
 <l His race, his form, his name alinoft unknown ? 
 
 P." Who builds a church to God, and not to fame, 
 <l Will never mark the marble with his name :
 
 ( 75 ) 
 
 <c Go, fearch it there, where to be born and die, 
 
 «* Of rich and poor makes all the hiftory ; 
 
 " Enough that virtue fill'd the fpace between 
 
 u Prov'd by the ends of being, to have been." 
 
 The allufion of the poet, to a neglect in 
 not raifing a monument to the good man's 
 name, no longer exifts, for in 1776 a neat 
 mural tablet was erected to his memory in 
 the chancel of the church, by Colonel Mo- 
 ney, to defray the expence of which, the fum 
 of three hundred pounds was bequeathed by 
 a Lady Kinnoul, whofe property devolving 
 to the Colonel, the good intention of the 
 lady was by him accomplished. On this 
 tablet the following lines are infcribed. 
 
 " This monument was erected in me- 
 " mory of Mr. John Kyrle, commonly cal- 
 " led the Man of Rofs." 
 
 It is fomewhat fingular that neither his 
 age, nor the time of his death, are here 
 
 K 2 men-
 
 ( /6 ) 
 
 mentioned. The defign for the monument 
 was made by a Mr. Marfh of this town, 
 who nas int roduced a buft of the good man 
 that bears little refemblance to either of 
 L^e two portraits I met with in Rofs j one 
 of thefe is in the poiTeflion of Philip Jones 
 Elq; a gentleman, who by marriage with 
 a defcendant of John Kyrle, enjoys all his 
 property, and by his urbanity renders himfelf 
 a worthy reprefentative of that exemplary 
 character. This picture appears to be that 
 of a perfon about thirty fix years of age, 
 and is evidently the work of Sir Peter Lely. 
 The other portrait was at the King's Arms 
 Inn, formerly the rehdence of John Kyrle, 
 as defcribed in the view given in this feclion, 
 it reprefents him at a more advanced period 
 of life, and on that account, although ill 
 painted, it was preferred to the former as 
 he is exhibited nearer the clofe of a life, 
 long and happily fpent in the promo- 
 tion of virtue, and to the honor of human 
 
 nature.
 
 J n ii v Kr es i, E, 
 
 ' "ommoniy cal/td tie .//•/// '/'/i 
 
 /'///■ /,r ,r. //;/,/>/,/ A/./r. / 7707. 
 
 /\ /!,///, w SCUil
 
 ( 77 ) 
 
 mtu re. I flatter myfelf the annexed etching 
 f/om this pi6ture will not prove unacceptable 
 to the admirer and collector of portraits, as 
 I do not remember to have ever feen a 
 print of this exalted character. The origi- 
 nal is faid to have been fketched from the 
 life unknown to Mr. Kyrle, on a funday 
 whilft he was attending divine fervice. He 
 had often been folicited to iit for his pic- 
 ture, but no inducement could prevail on 
 him to comply with the requeft of his 
 friends. 
 
 It is reported of Mr. Kyrle, that his 
 ordinary mode of drefs, was very plain, and 
 fo mean as even to fugged: the idea of in- 
 digence and want. And even more unfa- 
 vourable conclufions have been made, from 
 his general appearance, for upon no better 
 foundation, it is faid that when travelling 
 in Oxfordfhire on hoiTeback, he was appre- 
 hended near Benfon, upon a fufpicion of 
 
 having
 
 ( 78 ) 
 
 having committed a robbery in a neigh- 
 bouring county. I need not add that this 
 charge was di ('millet the inftant his name 
 was made known to the magiftracy. 
 
 We cannot quit this town without no- 
 ticing to the picturefque traveller, a charm- 
 ing walk made by Mr. Kyrle, which led to 
 what he called his farm, it commands a 
 beautiful view of the devious windings of 
 the river beneath, and Wilton cattle, bridge 3 
 &c. on the oppofite fhore. 
 
 SEC-
 
 ( 79 ) 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 A 
 
 BOUT a mile below Rofs, Wilton 
 Caftle firft attracts our attention. This 
 ruin is fituated on the margin of the Wye, 
 and affords with its furrounding objects in 
 many points of view, fcenes not unworthy 
 the attention of the antiquary or admirer of 
 piclurefque objects. Its weftern walls and 
 round towers are in the mofl perfect ftate 
 of prefervation, but the annexed view, com- 
 prifing a part of the bridge, is felected as 
 mofl appropriate to the defign of this work 
 and to exemplify the courfe of the river. 
 The caftle has formerly covered a confider- 
 able extent of ground, the greater part of 
 which is now ufed as a garden. Camden 
 fays " that king John gave Wilton with 
 " the caftle to Henry Longchamp and that 
 
 it
 
 ( *° ) 
 
 " it came by marriage to William Fitz- 
 " hugh, and not long after, in King Ed- 
 " ward the firfl's time, to Reginald Grey, 
 " Juftice of Chefter, from whom by a long 
 " defcent it came to Lord Grey of Wilton, 
 M whofe fon Arthur Lord Grey was Lord 
 c< Deputy of Ireland." This noble pcrfon 
 merits particular attention, as having been 
 the early patron of our Spencer the poet, 
 who accompanied him to Ireland as his 
 fecretary. 
 
 In the county of Cork, at a place called 
 Kilcolman, Spencer is reported to have fini- 
 fhed his excellent poem of the Fairy Queen. 
 The River Mulla, fo often mentioned by 
 him, ran through the grounds of the houfe 
 in which he refided. His gratitude to his 
 patron is thus recorded, in a fonnet ad- 
 dreffed to him, and is prefixed to the poem. 
 
 <t 
 
 Moft
 
 ( 8. ) 
 
 11 Moft noble 1 rd the pillor of my life, 
 
 " And patrone of my mufes pupillage : 
 
 " Through whofe large bountie, poured on me rife 
 
 * In the firft feafon of my feeble age, 
 
 *' I nowe doe live bound yours by vaflalage 5" &c; 
 
 At what period Wilton Caftle went out 
 of the family of the Greys is not mention- 
 ed, but it afterwards belonged to the Lord 
 Chandos, from w'.om it defcended to the 
 duke of Chandos who built Canons in 
 Middlefex. The remains of this caftle, With 
 Aconbury, Dewfall, and other confiderable 
 eftates in the neighbourhood bolonging to 
 this family, amounting to near four thou- 
 fand pounds per annum, were fold fome 
 years ago to the governors of Guy's Hof- 
 pital. The caftle is reported to have been 
 principally deftroyed by fire, but at what 
 period is not afcertained. In fupport of this 
 idea we obferved, that towards the ends of 
 the timbers, many of them appeared to have 
 
 L been
 
 ( 32 ) 
 
 been much burned. On this fpot an afleitl- 
 blage of rich and woody fcenery, forma the 
 leading feature of the vicinity of our river, 
 and about two miles below Wilton bridge 
 I would advife the admirer of the truly 
 grand in landfcape, to afcend the hill in 
 the high road to Monmouth, where at a 
 place called Pencreek, the eye is feafted 
 with one of the mod magnificent views 
 this river affords. The diftant church of 
 Rofs, its neighboring woods and hills, and 
 the meandering courfe of the Wye, all com- 
 bine from hence to form this facinating 
 fcene. Here the courfe of the river is pecu- 
 liarly marked, its channel is nobly formed, 
 and wears a grandeur not to be met with 
 in any other river we have yet fecn in this 
 country. 
 
 Amidst a Variety of enchanting views, 
 paffing from one bend of the river to ano- 
 ther, Goodrich cattle, on the Commit of a 
 
 bold
 
 ( «3 ) 
 
 bold promontary, amidft an elegant wood- 
 land fcene, nobly raifes its ruined battle- 
 ments, as if frowning on the ftream beneath. 
 
 On afcending- the hill to contemplate 
 the fpoils of Time, who ravages alike the 
 forms of beauty and the tower of ftrength, 
 by leaving for a moment the ordinary path 
 and psfting up what is called Conduit hill, 
 Walford church, Rofs, and the Surrounding 
 country, at a happy diftance, combine to 
 form a landfcape of peculiar richnefs and 
 beauty. Hiitory does not inform us at what 
 period this caftle was erected, but we find 
 that early as the fifth year of the reign 
 of King John, William Marfhall, Earl of 
 Pembroke had a grant of it. From this 
 family it came to Talbot, Earl of Shrews- 
 bury, in the reign of Edward the third, and 
 in the twentieth year of Richard the Second, 
 Sir John Scudamore of Holme Lacy was 
 conitituted its conftable, during the min- 
 
 L 2 tritv
 
 ( 8 4 ) 
 
 ority of John Lord Talbot, in whofe family 
 it continued till the fourteenth of James 
 the Firft ; at which period Gilbert Talbot, 
 Earl of Shrewfbury died, leaving three 
 daughters his coheirefles. Elizabeth the 
 fecond daughter was married to Henry de 
 Grey, Earl of Kent, by which marriage he 
 became pofTefTor of this manor, which con- 
 tinue d in the family till the death of Henry 
 Duke of Kent in 1740* after which it was 
 fold to Thomas Griffin, Efq; Vice Admiral 
 of the White, whofe fecond fon, the Re- 
 verend Dr. Griffin of Hadnock near Mon- 
 mouth, is its prefent owner. 
 
 This celebrated caflle was nearly fquare, 
 covering a fpace of ground forty eight yards 
 by fifty two, it was defended at each angle 
 by four large round towers, one of which 
 formed an irregular Heptagon. Through a 
 perfect Gothic arch, we are led to a fpacious 
 hall of good proportion overgrown with ivy, 
 
 adjoin-
 
 ( $$ ) 
 
 adjoining which is an area, prefenting the 
 remmns of a lofty fquare building, with cir- 
 cular arched windows in the Saxon ftyle, 
 refembling Gundulph's tower at Rochefter 
 caftle. Bv the fragment of a (lone flaircafe, 
 we nfcend another embattled tower, through 
 which at a great depth appears the immenfe 
 fofle, or trench, which is hewn out of a 
 (olid rock, and is twenty yards in breadth. 
 Here was once a draw-bridge and two gates 
 with recefTes between each, evidently inten- 
 ded as places of fafety for its guards, who 
 unfeen might annoy the enemy. The va- 
 rious points from which this caftle may be 
 viewed to advantage, would afford ample 
 matter for the antiquary, artilr, and military 
 architect. 
 
 Quitting this fpot, feveral views of 
 the caftle prefented themfelves, but they 
 were all undignified and uninterefting when 
 compared with thofe we had before contem- 
 plated
 
 ( S6 ) 
 
 plated. Thr country on the oppofite fide of 
 the river towards the village of Walford, is 
 peculiarly beautiful. In the church of Wal- 
 ford, one of the aifles is now called Kyrle*a 
 chapel, it was erected by that famil for 
 their private ufe, before it became a parochial 
 church j about a mile below the caftle, is a 
 fmall remain of Goodrich priory j a few Go- 
 thic windows are yet ftanding, and part of 
 the chapel which is now converted to a gra- 
 nary ; the whole affords an object furficient 
 to attract the notice of the curious. 
 
 •v 
 
 ?J%M3g|k\ 
 
 y*z 
 
 
 Tjr» ... ..* .^ff.. , ! . . h ,;!|Hi:i :. . .; ,. ;, «ff3 
 
 mm 
 
 :brk 
 
 M 
 
 yiiaim 
 
 3U3umUil .,_ 
 
 . safe -^^S^S^Hj^^ 
 
 
 This
 
 ( s 7 ; 
 
 This priory was a monaftery of the or- 
 der of black cannons regular of St. Auguf- 
 tine, founded and endowed with the king's 
 licence in the twentieth of Edward the 
 fourth, 1347. Its fituation correfponds with 
 the happy choice ufually made by the an- 
 cient porTefTors of religious houfes, it ftands 
 in a fertile valley, watered by one of the 
 finefl rivers in the kingdom. The building 
 with the lands contiguous to the caftle are 
 occupied by a Mr. Bellamy. From the 
 afcent, approaching the village of Good- 
 rich > a rich and extenfive view prefents 
 itfelf acrofs the foreil of Dean, from whence 
 Rure-dean church happily breaks upon the 
 eye. 
 
 Here the Wye in a long and ferpentine 
 reach, appears in a perfpective point of view 
 and affords a pleafing and happy termination 
 to the fcenery -, its banks are fcreened on the 
 fouth, by an extenfive coppice wood, and on 
 
 the
 
 C 88 ) 
 
 the north, by fertile meadows rifing towards 
 Biihop s- wood, from which a coniiderable 
 iron furnace in tins vicinity derives its name. 
 From tone cparriss in thi? neighbor* 
 
 ho lew bridge at Briftoi was priiici- 
 
 I j ucued. 
 
 Passing down the river, the next ob- 
 ject that attracts our notice is Courtfield, 
 the feat of the Vaughan family. 
 
 This fpot is rendered remarkable from 
 Henry the fifth having been nurfed in the 
 neighbourhood. That prince we are told, 
 was when you:?g of a weak and fickly habit, 
 and was placed under the care of a coun- 
 tefs of Salifbury, from which circumftance 
 in all probability 3 the original name of this 
 place which was Greyfield, was changed to 
 the appellation it now bears. We next ap- 
 proach Lidbroke colliery and very large and 
 extenfive wharf, from whence a confutable 
 
 commerce
 
 ( S 9 ) 
 
 commerce in coals is carried on to Rofs, 
 Hereford and other places. This productive 
 , mine is the property of Lord Gage. With 
 all the dark and dingy attributes of this 
 place, involved as it is in fmoke, and begirt 
 with coal barges, it yet affords a very plea- 
 fing and interefting landfcape. The high 
 road that afcends the woody hill, fcreen- 
 ing the back ground of this wharf, is per- 
 petually enlivened by horfes and carriages 
 in this footy fable commerce, while on the 
 bank of the river beneath, the lading and 
 unlading the veffels, afford additional bufi- 
 nefs and variety to the fcene. This view 
 is finely contrafled on a fudden bend of the 
 river a little below, where all is tranquil and 
 ferene. The picturefque village of Welch 
 Bicknor prefents itfelf in a rich valley on 
 the right bank of the Wye, happily over- 
 fhaded by a thicket of woods, ranged in a 
 grand and circular fweep. Thcfe are called 
 
 M Hawk-
 
 ( 9* ) 
 
 Bawkwood and Packwood, and extend about 
 a mile along the bank of the river. The 
 village church and parfonage houfe, group 
 in a form peculiarly beautiful and inter- 
 efting. 
 
 In the body of the church, fronting the 
 reading defk, is a cumbent whole length fe- 
 male figure, well fculptured in a darkifli co- 
 loured flone. Traditional report fays it re- 
 prefents the countefs of Saiifbury, whom 
 we have juft mentioned as having nurfecl 
 king Henry the fifth. She holds a child in 
 each arm. This effigy is highly worthy of 
 notice. The drapery is in a loofe and free 
 £tyle, and the general contour of the whole 
 befpeaks it the work of an artift of talent. 
 A little below this fcene,,the Wye is bounded 
 on the oppofite fhore by a long range of 
 hills, beautifully cloath-d with verdure, and 
 divei'fified by a rich and broken, foil of a 
 
 warm
 
 ( !>' ) 
 
 warm and reddifti hue, frequently over 
 clouded with (hades of fmoak that ifllie 
 from the various kilns, kept continually 
 burning near this fpot. Thefe circum- 
 stances trifling and adventitious as they may 
 appear, give relief and effect to the picture- 
 refque and beautiful in landfcape. Ap- 
 proaching the foot of Cold-well rocks, a 
 fcene fublime and majeflic prefents itfelf. 
 The grand prominencies are overhung with 
 richly varied tufts of oak, and other fhrub- 
 beries, occafionally contrafted and relieved 
 by deep and fhadowy dells, formed by the 
 various lime kilns on their furface. Some 
 of the moft prominent of Cold- well rocks, 
 we are informed have by fome gentle- 
 men of the bar, in their paffage down this 
 river, been chriftened after the names of 
 our principal council. The connection is 
 not obvious, or readily traced. 
 
 M 2 Here 

 
 ( 9* ) 
 
 Here we quitted the barge to afcend 
 thefe majeftic rocks, which by an immenfe 
 and craggy deep, we with difficulty accom- 
 plished, and reached the fummit called Sy- 
 mond's Gate. This talk, arduous as it is 
 mould not not deter the traveller from pur- 
 fuing this courfe, as by means of it he will 
 avoid a dull and uninterefting pafTage on 
 the water of full three miles to the new 
 Weir, and by pafling over thefe rocks he 
 will enjoy a fublimity of fcenery that will 
 amply repay his toil and labour. As we 
 afcend thefe fuperb maffes of ftone, the rich 
 and extenfive fcenery that furrounds us, is 
 every moment unfolding itfelf : the fummit 
 is richly overgrown with wild thyme, and 
 variegated flowers, and is crowned with the 
 rich and deep foliage of the noble oak 
 
 " Here all the air a folemn ftillnefs holds" 
 
 fave the difiant lowing of cattle, and from 
 
 his
 
 ( 93 ) 
 
 his rocky bed, the dirge like evening fong 
 of the owl, that floats along the gale. 
 
 From hence Goodrich caftle, which 
 we imagined we had left far behind, breaks 
 fuddenly upon the eye, and appears from 
 the immenfe winding of the river to be a 
 near object.. The new weir, and adjoining 
 waterfall, with the furrounding rich and 
 healthy hills afford from this fpot a combi- 
 nation of objects, that defervedly rank 
 among the firft views on the river, or per- 
 haps in this country. 
 
 The village of Whitechurch in the cen- 
 tre of the vale beneath, with the vaft hills 
 beyond it, afford a fublime termination to 
 this reach of the river. 
 
 At Whitechurch is a fecond ferry called 
 Hunfon's Rope. This ferry although (even 
 
 miles
 
 ( 94 ) 
 
 miles diftant by water from that of Good- 
 rich, is only one mile by land, a linking in- 
 ftance of the very appropriate and charac- 
 teriftical title of our river, which from its 
 mazy and circuitous courfe, is juftly de- 
 nominated the Vaga, or Wye. 
 
 SEC
 
 ( 95 ) 
 
 SECTION VIL 
 
 DESCENDING towards the new Weir 
 by a courfe not lefs rugged than that by 
 which we afcended, the fatigue we had un- 
 dergone, was amply repaid by the gratifica- 
 tion we received in fome of the moft beau- 
 tiful views that can be imagined. Thefe 
 prefented themfelves through the various 
 breaks of the rocks, or openings of the fur- 
 rounding woods with which they are en- 
 riched. The ferpentine winding of the 
 river, and the vaft prominencies and fan- 
 tailic forms of the rocks in its vicinity, give 
 an air of folemn gloom and grandeur to the 
 fcene. From the approach to the Weir, 
 the annexed view was felected, it com- 
 prifes all the principal objects that could 
 be admitted within the limits of a fcale (o 
 circumfciibed. The innumerable circum- 
 stances
 
 ( 9« ) 
 
 fiances that aid this grand and fublime 
 fcene, are fuch as to render it almoft im- 
 
 poflible for the pencil, to render it juftice 
 The iron forges on the oppofite fide of the 
 river, not lefs from their appearance than 
 from the important purpofes they anfwer 
 in human life, give an intereft to this ef- 
 of nature, while the awful found of the 
 iron hammers beating the fiery mafs, awa- 
 kens in the mind new fenfations giving 
 dignity and grandeur to the fubjeft. This 
 piclurefque fcene is much heightened by 
 the immenfe volumes of fparkling fmoak 
 that are continually iffuing from the forges, 
 thefe give a pleafing though tranfitory re- 
 lief to the fombre, and diftant hiils that 
 terminate the view. Around thefe works 
 are fcattered great maffes of half burned 
 ore, coal, and cinders, and interfperfed on 
 the barren and extenfive moor in the vici- 
 nity, arc many humble cottages of the va- 
 rious workmen employed in the manufac- 
 tory.
 
 ( 97 ) 
 
 Sory. The roaring of the waters from the 
 cafcade of the Weir adjoining to this work 
 has a grand effect, its fall is precipitate al- 
 though at no great height, nor is it per- 
 ceived from above the dream. 
 
 The river here receives a considerable 
 degree of agitation from the huge mafles of 
 ft one, either fwept down by the ftream, or 
 hurled from the fummit of the neighbour- 
 ing rocks. Here the Wye increafes in 
 width, and its current is fo ftrong, that 
 it is with extraordinary labour and diffi- 
 culty the barges are towed up. I have (qqix 
 eight or ten men throwing themfelves on 
 the earth on every pull, to give force to their 
 exertions. 
 
 In this part of the river is frequently 
 feen a fmall fifhing boat on a lingular con- 
 ftruction, called a corricle, it is ribbed with 
 laths or fplit twigs, and is covered with a 
 
 N ftrong
 
 ( 98 ) 
 
 ftrong pitched canvas, to prevent its leak- 
 ing, it is about five feet and a half long 
 and four broad. In the middle is a feat 
 that holds one man, who fits with a paddle 
 in one hand while he fifties with the other* 
 His labour nniihed, he throws the corricle 
 over his fhoulder and retires to his home. 
 
 A little below the weir the river fcenery 
 is terminated by what is called King Ar- 
 thur's plain, or Doward hills. To the tra- 
 veller who is bold enough to attempt the 
 fummit of thefe hills, the views will afford 
 ample variety both in the beautiful and fub- 
 lime. Camden conjectures, that on thefe 
 hills there has anciently been a fortification, 
 and what makes it more probable is, that 
 in digging there for iron ore, and lime 
 ftone, he fays <* broad arrow heads have 
 " been found, and not long ago, the great- 
 " eft part of the bones of a gigantic per- 
 ct fon were found here interred, in a place 
 
 " that
 
 ( 99 ) 
 
 *' that feemed to be arched over." What- 
 ever may have been the ancient deftination 
 of this fpot, its prefent attractions proceed 
 from the very extenfive and richly diverfified 
 profpects that prefent themfelves from every 
 point of view. On a fpot adjoining to the 
 wood on the extremity of this hill, is a ca- 
 vern that bears the name of King Arthur's 
 Hall j it is faid to extend by a fubteraneous 
 paflage from hence to the new weir, a dis- 
 tance of about a mile. Many fabulous 
 and romantic tales have been attached to 
 the hiftory of this hall, but the fact ap- 
 pears to be fimply this, that it was a ca- 
 vern, from whence was dug a rich mine of 
 iron ore, that fupplied the adjoining fur- 
 naces. 
 
 A detached cl utter of rocks called St. 
 Martins', or the three Sifters, fomewhat re- 
 fembling but much inferior to thofe at Cold- 
 well, fkirt the river in pafTing down, near 
 
 N 2 which
 
 ( 100 ) 
 
 which at a fhort reach called St. Martini 
 Well, the flream is fuppofed to have a great- 
 er depth of water than in any other part. 
 At the extremity of this reach from a beauti- 
 ful vale, King Arthur's plain again prefents 
 kfelf, affirming a new and cancellated form, 
 and here every ftroak of the oar gives va- 
 riety to the fcene ? and every object feems to 
 vary its fituation. The vail: affemblage of 
 rocks we have juft contemplated, appear 
 to vanifh and melt into a diftant hill, ri- 
 fing from a craggy bafe on the margin of 
 the river. 
 
 About two miles before we reach Mon- 
 mouth, Hadnock houfe and the beauties of 
 its fituation juftly demand our attention, 
 It is fituated on the edge of the foreft of 
 Dean, and ftands on the brow of a hill, 
 commanding a fafcinating view of the mean- 
 dering Wye, that gently glides beneath its 
 rocky hills ; thefe are enriched with ver- 
 dant
 
 • '. t. 
 
 ( ioi ) 
 
 dant coppice woods that fcreen this beau- 
 tiful fpot, the refidence of the Rev. Dr. 
 Griffin, whom we have before mentioned. 
 From hence along the bafe of the hills, a 
 road running parallel with the river that 
 kads on to Monmouth. 
 
 SEC-
 
 ( io 3 ) 
 
 SECTION VIIL 
 
 Q 
 
 U I T T I N G Hadnock, we are gratified 
 with a diftant view of the bridge and town 
 of Monmouth. The folitary church of 
 Dixton on the oppcnte bank of the river, 
 although deficient in accompaniments is yet 
 a characleriftic and interesting feature in the 
 fore ground of the landfcape ; and it con- 
 tinues to be fuch, though fince this di awing 
 was executed, its interior received in the 
 great flood in 1795 very material injury ; 
 the water having forced its w,y through the 
 windows and doors, and torn up th pulpit, 
 pews and pavement. 
 
 Monmouth bridge is of ftone, and 
 confifls of fix irregular arches. The town 
 derives its name from its fituation at the 
 
 conflux
 
 ( *<H ) 
 
 conflux of the Wye and Mynwye, gene- 
 rally, and by the Welfh particularly pro*, 
 nounced Monnow. 
 
 A great part of Monmouth is encom- 
 pafFed by this river which empties itfelf 
 into the Wye at the lower end of the town; 
 where a very ancient bridge and gateway, 
 formerly a barrier againft the Welfh, is 
 thrown acrofs this mountain ftream. It is 
 ibmewhat extraordinary, that neither hif- 
 tory or tradition, although they are both 
 mentioned by Leland in his itinerary, afford 
 any information as to the period in which 
 they were built. Independent however of 
 hiftorical evidence, they bear fuch unequivo- 
 cal marks of antiquity, that the picturefque 
 effect they produce, gives them ample claim 
 to a place in this work. The annexed plate 
 will we flatter ourfelves, convey a faithful 
 reprefentation of this venerable remain, and 
 
 in
 
 ( '°5 ) 
 
 in fome degree illuftrate the fltuation of the 
 town itfelf j which though low, is feated in a 
 fpot at once both pleafing and romantic. 
 
 Monmouth had anciently four gates, 
 and the fuburb was defended by a wall and 
 deep ditch on each fide, except that next the 
 river. As far back as Leland's time, the 
 walls and every other embattled part but the 
 fquare tower were in a ftate of ruin. The 
 church is an entire modern ftructure. 
 
 Monmouth has high claim to confi- 
 deration and refpecr, from its having given 
 birth to our fifth Henry the conqueror of 
 France, whofe active fpirit, warlike quali- 
 ties, and fuperior Ikill in horfemanfhip, par- 
 ticularly at a time when to be accompliih- 
 cd, was indifpenfible to the character of a 
 gentleman, and the cavalry fervice began to 
 be in a manner appropriated to men of this 
 
 O rank,
 
 ( ic6 ) 
 
 rank, are thus enchantingly, and with all: 
 the eafe and grace of the gallant and prince- 
 ly horfeman he defcribes, delineated by our 
 matchlefs bard. 
 
 et I fow young Harry with his beaver on, 
 
 c< His cuifles on his thighs, gallantly arm'd, 
 
 <{ Rife from the ground like feather'd Mercury, 
 
 " And vaulted with fuch eafe into his feat 
 
 " As if an angel dropp'd down from the clouds, 
 
 " To turn and wind' a fiery pegafus, 
 
 * l And witch the world with feats of horfemanfllip. ,, 
 
 Henry was born in the caftle of Mon- 
 mouth, of which little more remains than a 
 few fragments of walls, and an elevation or 
 mound of earth, juft fufficient to afcertain 
 its fite 3 and to demon urate how evanefcent 
 and tranfitory are all human things ; the 
 ftrong embattled fortrefs as well as the cra- 
 dle of princes. Such once were to be found 
 on this fpot 5 and that this awful truth may 
 be more ftrongly imprelTed and exemplified, 
 
 though
 
 ( l0 7 ) 
 
 though there yet remains more vifible and 
 palpable evidence of one than of the other, 
 let it be remembered, that the record of 
 hiftory will retain the memory of the birth 
 place of Henry, when all traces of the caftle 
 fhall have pafted away, and even its fite fhall 
 as ineffectually be fought after as at this 
 hour the image of its former fplendour. 
 
 In this caftle Edward the fecond, after 
 
 he had been made prifoner by his queea 
 
 Ifabella, in 1326, was for a time confined. 
 
 Having in the fouth weft direction of the 
 
 town, with fome difficulty obtained a iketch 
 
 of the ruin of the caftle that partakes much 
 of the piclurefquc, it is here given as an il- 
 
 luftration of this venerable fpot. The ri- 
 ver Monnow beautifully winds beneath its 
 ruined walls, the wooden bridge that is 
 thrown acrofs the ftream, and the rich and 
 verdant fcenery of its hilly bank, all confpire 
 to produce a landfcape highly deferving a 
 
 O 2 place
 
 ( io3 ) 
 
 place in this work. The remains of the 
 caftle, denote it to be of Roman construc- 
 tion, Camden fays that from the king's re- 
 cords, a caftle was {landing here in a flou- 
 ri filing ft ate, as early as the time of William 
 the Conqueror, and that it was rebuilt by 
 John Baron of Monmouth, about the year 
 1240. 
 
 This town has not only the honor of 
 giving birth to a great king, but likewife 
 to a great hiftorian, Galfredius Arthurius, 
 Bifhop of St. Afaph, better known by the 
 name of Jeffery of Monmouth. He is fup- 
 pofed to have been educated at this place, 
 which had then a benedicline monastery, or 
 convent of black monks, founded in 1 240 
 by Wihenoe de Monemue, or Monmouth. 
 Monasteries were at that time the principal 
 feminaries for learning in this country, as 
 Oxford and Cambridge had not then rifen 
 to any great celebrity, and were at that peri- 
 od much depreffed in confequence of the Da- 
 
 nifh
 
 ( io 9 ) 
 
 nifh invafion. Jeffery was made arch deacon 
 of Monmouth in 1251, and was foon after- 
 wards created bifhop of St. xAfaph. He tranf- 
 lated the hiftory of Britain from the Britifh 
 language into Latin, a work faid to have 
 bsen difcovered by Walter Mapaeus while in 
 Armorica, and brought by him into Eng- 
 land, where meeting with Jeffery of Mon- 
 mouth, a man profoundly verfed in the hif- 
 tory and antiquities of Britain, and an ele- 
 gant writer for the period in which he lived 
 the talk was entrusted to him. Merlin's 
 prophecies he alfo tranflated from Britifh 
 verfe into Latin profe. This work was of 
 cffential fervice to the Welch chieftain Owen 
 Clendwr, whofe high pretenfions to fove- 
 riegnty were conftantly favoured and chc- 
 riihed by thefe prophecies. The veracity of 
 Jeffery, as an hifforian, has been doubted by 
 many j Camden fays that his relation of 
 Brutus and his fucceflbrs ought to be in- 
 Urely difregarded. It may however be ob- 
 
 ferved
 
 ( «o ) 
 
 ferved in favour of this writer, from the 
 teftimony of Giraldus Cambrenlis his con- 
 temporary, that at that period the Welch 
 bards and minftrels from early traditional ac- 
 counts, received and tranfmitted with a mix- 
 ture of religious reverence and awe a folemnly 
 repeated the genealogy of their princes and 
 heroes, from Roderic the Great to iEneas, 
 and from iEneas lineally to Adam. 
 
 If this fhould not altogether be thought 
 to add much to their probable authenticity, 
 it will ferve to warrant the introduction of 
 the hiftory, to fhew at leaft that he was not 
 the author of the fiction -, and, in tracing 
 the origin of nations, tales to the full as fa- 
 bulous are to be met with in the pages of 
 Biany of our graver!: and approved writers. 
 
 To the few early hi (tori an s of our own 
 we owe much, and amongft thefe Jeffery 
 deferves every re/pecr, and we are bound to 
 
 regret
 
 ( •«« ) 
 
 regret that in fucceeding times, the beft 
 hiftories of this country will be found to 
 have been the labors of foreigners. A frag- 
 ment of Monmouth Priory, we have pre- 
 ferved as a tribute to the memory of the 
 hiftorian who was there educated. The 
 Gothic window that appears in view re- 
 mains very perfect, and appertains to a ve- 
 nerable ancient chamber, which he is re- 
 ported to have occupied as a ftudy. From 
 the nature of its foundation, the free fchool 
 at Monmouth particularly deferves our no- 
 tice. Burton, in his hiflory of Wales, 
 gives this relation of William Jones its foun- 
 der : he fays, " Wm. Jones was born at 
 " Monmouth, and forced to quit his coun- 
 " try for not being able to pay ten groats. 
 " Coming to London he became firft a 
 w porter, and then a factor ; and going 
 " over to Hamburgh, had fuch a vent for 
 " Welch cottons, that he gained a very 
 el confiderable eflate in a fhort time. He 
 
 " founded
 
 ii 
 ft 
 u 
 
 " founded a fair fchool in Monmouth, al- 
 •• lowing fifty pounds yearly to the mafter, 
 a and a hundred pounds falary to a lee- 
 turer, befides a ftately alms houfe for 
 twenty poor people, each of them having 
 two rooms and a garden, and half a 
 " crown a week ; all which he left to the 
 " overfight of the company of haberdafhers 
 " in London, who difcharge their truft 
 " therein to this day." Another account of 
 the founder is thus given, but with lefs 
 credibility. That he was a native of New- 
 land, a few miles diftant from Monmouth, 
 and having quitted it when young to feek 
 his fortune, he returned at an advanced pe- 
 riod of life, in an apparent flate of indi- 
 gence, although very rich, and applied to 
 his native town for relief as a pauper, 
 which being refufed, he took his revenge on 
 the people by retiring to Monmouth, and 
 there difpenfing that wealth, that was in- 
 tended to enrich his native place. 
 
 We
 
 ( "3 ) 
 
 We cannot quit the pleafant town of 
 Monmouth without noticing the maflive pile 
 of its goal. Built in a lofty and healthy fpor, 
 and in the form of an ancient caftle ; it 
 frowns over the country, and imprefles the 
 idea of rigorous confinement and the impos- 
 sibility of efcape. At the time we vifited 
 
 this expenfive and fpacious work, it con- 
 tained only one folitary inhabitant, and he 
 
 a prifoner for only a very trivial offence* 
 As our goals inereafe in magnitude, it is 
 with pleafure we have frequently had occa- 
 fion to remark that there is a decreafe of 
 inhabitants, nor is it lefs worthy of obfer- 
 vation that the humanity of fupplying even 
 thofe who lead deferve it, with decent ac- 
 commodation, as well as the bleffing of light 
 and air, before denied to them, is now moft 
 liberally granted.- 
 
 Perhaps it may not be too much to 
 infer from hence, that the immenfity of the 
 
 P bulk
 
 C H4 ) 
 
 bulk of thefe buildings, in the confpicuous 
 fituation in which they are now placed, may 
 imprefs the multitude with fuch a terror of 
 the confequence of crimes, as in fome de- 
 gree to prevent a commiffion of them. 
 This building itands on an eminence, and 
 commands a fine view of the town and fur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 SEC-
 
 C us ) 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 \/UITTING Monmouth on an ex- 
 curfion to Rhaglan Cattle, we afcended a 
 confiderable hill about a mile from the 
 town, that afforded one of the mod luxu- 
 riant landfcapes we had witnefled in the 
 courfe of our route. From this eminence, 
 the rich valley in which Monmouth is fitu- 
 ated, and the beauties of the (unrounding 
 country, are highly illuftrative of Gray's 
 opinion of the charming fituation of this 
 place. He rapturoufly defcribes this fcene 
 as " the delight of his eyes and the very 
 « feat of pleafure," We have attempted to 
 give an idea of this much admired fpot in the 
 annexed plate. 
 
 The ride to Rhaglan Caftle, a diftance of 
 
 p 2 about
 
 ( ir<5 ) 
 
 about fix miles, amply gratified us for thb 
 deviation from our main purfuit. 
 
 This magnificent remain of ancient 
 fplendor Hands on an elevated fituation 
 commonly called Twyn-y-ciros, which fig- 
 nifies in Welch the cherry hill ; and, as we 
 approach it from the village, appears to 
 wear that folemn and majeftie air highly 
 chara&eriftic of the fpirit of the times in 
 which it flourifhed. The external view 
 here fele&ed, we flatter ourfelves will not 
 only convey the beft idea of its extent and 
 magnificence, but is a point from which 
 we do not remember to have ever feen it re- 
 prefented. This noble building, which may 
 rather be terminated a cancellated boufe than 
 a cattle, is in many parts, frill in good pre- 
 fervation. It was ere&ed in the reign of 
 Henry VII. and does not therefore boaft of 
 great antiquity ; many additions were made 
 to it about the time of Elizabeth, thefe 
 
 confti-
 
 ( 111 ) 
 
 conflitute, the moft elegant parts of thi's 
 fuperb pile, and are to be found in the 
 windows of the grand hall, or banqueting 
 room ; the ornaments of the frieze and cor- 
 nice are light and elegant, and in the beft 
 tafte of that time. To the left of this hall, 
 was a large court one hundred feet long, 
 and fixty feet broad, well arched and orna- 
 mented, with curious (lone work both on 
 the walls and windows. In the midft of 
 the court was a pleafant marble fountain 
 called the White Horfe -. the following re- 
 mark of Dr. Griffin, relative to the white 
 horfe may not prove uninterefting. " I re- 
 " member," fays he, " fome years ago, 
 u they ufed to fhew here part of the body 
 " of a black horfe, which flood in the 
 u middle of fome water that fupplied the 
 c * caftle, and was a fountain. I was told 
 " the parliamentarians poifoned the water 
   during the fiege, and that the flone horfe 
 " abforbed the poifon j it was very hard, 
 
 ft but
 
 *t 
 
 ( "8 ) 
 
 but on being (truck, or rubbed with any 
 hard fubftance, emitted a very offenfivc 
 ** fmell. Perhaps I had the legend very 
 " imperfectly, and it fhould have been ad- 
 " ded, the poifon turned the white horfe 
 u into a black one." The caftle is fur- 
 rounded by a wide fofle thirty feet broad, 
 wherein was originally placed an artificial 
 water work, which fpouted up water to the 
 height of the caflle, and contains within it 
 two acres, one of which appears to have 
 been encompafted with domeftic offices, fuch 
 as kitchen, brewhoufe, &c. and in which 
 there is an oven, and fire range of fuch ex- 
 traordinary dimenfions, as to fatisfy us, 
 that there were times in which they were 
 not wholly occupied in feats of arms. 
 
 In this building every precaution has 
 b^n ufed to guard and fecure the approaches 
 to it ; and the utmoft magnificence is to be 
 obferved in every part of the interior, even 
 
 in
 
 ( "9 ) 
 
 in the domeftic offices. The ftaircafe and 
 afcent to the grand apartments are peculiarly 
 noble ; and beneath the areas which are 
 vaulted, are various fubterraneous apart- 
 ments, and extenfive cellars of the mod ex- 
 cellent workmanfhip. The citadel, which is 
 octagonal, is furrounded by a moat, and 
 itands at a (mail diftance from the caftle : 
 its principal parts are in a perfect ftate 
 of prefervation. This noble caftle is in the 
 pofTeffion of the Duke of Beaufort, whofe 
 anceftor, the Marquis of Worcefter in the 
 time of Charles the firft, added and fortified 
 many extenlive out works, by which he was 
 enabled to hold it for the king's ufe till 
 his imprifonment at Holmby. It once con- 
 tained a garrifon of eight hundred men, and 
 was the laft caftle that furrendered to the 
 parliament forces, then under the command 
 of Sir Thomas Fairfax. This event hap- 
 pened on the nineteenth of Auguft 1646, 
 and is reported to have been effected by a fe- 
 male
 
 ( I 20 ) 
 
 male in the garrifon, and by the the ufe of 
 a very ordinary female engine, the mere wa- 
 ving a handkerchief, as a fignal for the in- 
 troduction of Cromwell* s party. If this were 
 fo 9 politics were probably by no means the 
 primary incentives of this lady's zeal, and 
 there were doubtlefs fecret articles in this 
 treaty, unknown to the befieging general. 
 The window at which fhe appeared is flill 
 ftewn. 
 
 The more probable account is, that from 
 the very long fiege it fuftained, the upper 
 part was undermined, and the timbers being 
 burnt a great part of it fell down. Soon 
 after its furrender, the caftle was demo- 
 lifhed and left, in nearly the fame ftate 
 in which it now remains. The lofs to the 
 family is fuppofed to be upwards of a hun- 
 dred thoufand pounds, befides the forfeiture 
 of an eftate of twenty thoufand a year. 
 Three confiderable parks of remarkable fer- 
 tility
 
 ( '21 ) 
 
 tility, and richly flocked with deer, once 
 appertained to this caftle. 
 
 Returning to Monmouth we refumed 
 our pafTage down the Wye, on a morning, one 
 of the moft beautiful ever beheld . The retro- 
 fpective view of Monmouth on pafling down, 
 the fpire of the church, the town, bridge, and 
 furrounding fcene, though inferior to that 
 above, yet in fome refpecls exhibited a very 
 piclurefque landfcape. The hills oppofite 
 to Monmouth, are called the Kemmin 
 Rocks, on the fummit of which Mr. Phi- 
 lip Hard wick, an architect, has erected a 
 flone building for the reception of his 
 friends, called Philip's Court. This fpot 
 commands a view moft extenfive and diver- 
 sified, and will well repay the labour of 
 climbing up what John Bunyan would juftly 
 call Hill Difficulty. To thofe who vifit this 
 fpot it may be worth the trouble of going 
 
 Q^ about
 
 ( 122 ) 
 
 about a mile further to view, amongtf: 
 many others, an immenfe large rock called 
 the Back Stone -, a name probably derived 
 from the deer having fheltered themfelves 
 under it when the adjacent country was in 
 the form of a park. Its fituation is on the 
 extreme edge of the hill -, and, though of 
 an immenfe fize, it flands on an angular 
 point, and is fo nicely balanced, as to be 
 with a very fmall degree of force, fet in 
 motion and fhaken. Approaching the junc- 
 tion of the Monnow with the Wye, the fide 
 fcenes of the river, increafe in richnefs 
 both of woody, and verdant fcenery,, and 
 with fuch agreable breaks in the diftance as 
 to produce an enchanting effect. 
 
 A little below this point, a fmall 
 river called the Trothe, or Trothey, unites 
 itfelf with our Wye, on whofe banks they 
 jointly pafs, near a a refpectable manfion 
 
 called
 
 < 12 3 ) 
 
 fca 1 !ed Troy-houfe, in the pofleffion of the 
 Duke of Beaufort, to whom it defcended 
 from Sir Charles Somerfet. 
 
 Sir Charles was the third fon of Ed- 
 ward Earl of Worcefter, and married the 
 daughter and heirefs of Sir William Powell 
 of Troy, by whom he acquired a confide- 
 rable eftate, and added much influence to 
 the houfe of Worcefter. The prefent edi- 
 fice notwithstanding it was defigned by 
 Inijo Jones, has little that can recommend 
 it to notice. It is ufed merely as a lodge, 
 and is occafionally only occupied by the fa- 
 mily. A few portraits decorate its walls, 
 but they are not of confequence fuflicient to 
 take the traveller far out of his way. The 
 cradle wherein Harry of Monmouth is re- 
 ported to have been rocked is here exhibited 
 as a great curiofity, but the frefhnefs of its 
 velvet, its nails and appendages, befpeak it 
 rather to have been the receptable of one of 
 
 Q^2 . the
 
 ( I2 4 ) 
 
 the Beaufort family in the time of Charles 
 the fecond. 
 
 To thofe however who are fond of cra- 
 dles (and in their fecond childhood, amongft 
 our old lady antiquaries, fome fuch there 
 may be) the annexed fketch of one, the ap- 
 pearance of which befpeaks it as not un- 
 likely to have been of that time, and which 
 is in the poflefiion of the Reverend Mr. 
 Ball of Newlands, a few miles from Mon- 
 mouth, may not prove an unacceptable 
 regale. 
 
 It
 
 ( »5 ) 
 
 It is made of oak without any cover- 
 ing, and is fufpended by two iron rings, by 
 which it receives motion on the leaft touch 
 or action of the child j it is three feet long, 
 one foot four deep, and one foot fix wide ; 
 it is ornamented at the top of the fuppor- 
 ters, which are octagonal, with two birds, 
 refembling eagles, but their beaks are bro- 
 ken off. The following anecdote relative to 
 Troy houfe, extracted from the " Apo- 
 " thegms of the Earl of Worcefter," it is 
 prefumed will be thought not unworthy a 
 place in this work.- 
 
 <c Sir Thomas Somerfet, brother to the 
 * c Marquis of Worcefler, had a houfe which 
 " was called Troy, five miles from Rhaglan 
 " caftle. This Sir Thomas being a com- 
 " plete gentleman, delighted much in fine 
 " gardens and orchards, where by the bene- 
 " fit of art, the earth was made fo grateful 
 *- to him at the fame time, that the king 
 
 " (Charles
 
 ( »6 ) 
 
 " (Charles the firft) happened to be at his 
 " brother's houfe, that it yielded him where- 
 *' withal to fend his brother a prefent ; and 
 " fuch an one as (the times and the feafons 
 16 considered) was able to make the king 
 " believe, that the fovereign of the planets 
 " had now changed the poles, and that 
 " Wales (the refufe and the outcaft of the 
 " fair garden of England) had fairer and 
 <{ riper fruit than England's bowels had 
 <4 on all her beds. This prefent, given to 
 <c the marquis, he would not fuffer to be 
 <£ prefented to the king by any hand but 
 <£ his own. In comes the marquis then, at 
 '• the end of the fupper, led by the arm, 
 <c with a flow pace, exprefling much Spanifti 
 * c gravity, with a filver difli in each hand, 
 " filled with rarities ; and a little bafket on 
 ** his arm as a referve, when making his 
 obeifance he thus fpeaks : May it pleafe 
 your Majefly, if the four elements could 
 5' have been robbed to have entertained your 
 
 " Majefty, 
 
 <i 
 
 a
 
 ( "> ) 
 
 " Majefty, I think I had but done my duty, 
 * { but I muft do as I may. If I had fent 
 ct to Briftol for fome good things to enter- 
 " tain your Majefty, that would have been 
 " no wonder at all. If I had procured 
 " from London, fome goodnefs that might 
 " have been acceptable to your Majefty, that 
 " would have been no wonder. But here I 
 <c prefent you, Sir, (placing his dimes upon 
 6t the table) with that which came not from 
 " Lincoln that was, nor London that is, 
 u nor York that is to be, but from Troy.'* 
 Whereupon the king fouled and anfvvered 
 the marquis ; " Truly my Lord, I have heard 
 " that corn grows where Troy town flood j 
 " but I never thought there had grown any 
 " apricots before." Whereupon the mar- 
 quis replied, " Any thing to pleafe your 
 i{ Majefty." When my lord marquis de- 
 parted the prefence, one told him that he 
 would make a very good courtier j remem- 
 ber well, replied the marquis, that I faid 
 
 one
 
 
 
 ( «* ) 
 
 one thing which may give fome hopes of 
 me : Any thing to pleafe your majefty. 
 
 Amidst a rich though hilly fcenery, 
 beautiful in its forms and happily diveriified 
 by a multitude of fmall farms, that exhibit 
 evident marks of improving cultivation in 
 this, yet very improvable, though fertile 
 country, we reach Redbrook. Here a con- 
 fiderable manufactory of iron and tin gives 
 a new and pleafing variety to the fceneiy 
 and buftle on our river. Some of the iron 
 ore ufed here comes from Coldford, and 
 other places in the neighbourhood of the 
 foreft of Dean, but the greater part is 
 brought from Lancafhire. 
 
 About a mile and a half below Red- 
 brook, the Wye receives a further fupply 
 from a fmall dream called Whitebrook ; 
 about the diftance of a mile from whence 
 flands St. Briaval's Caftle. It is fituated on 
 
 an
 
 ( I2 9 ) 
 
 an eminence, and though fo near the river, 
 is from the water too indiftinc~t an object 
 for the pencil. This is to be regretted, as 
 the woody declivities on each fide of it are 
 beautiful in their forms, and difplay a fcene 
 uncommonly rich and elegant ; but on 
 quitting the boat we found a nearer view of 
 the caftle, well worthy a place in this work, 
 and a proper ornament of its fubje6t. The 
 annexed fketch exhibits a north eafl view of 
 the caftle, and the remains of the moat 
 that in part furrounded it. 
 
 The diftant Monmouthlhire hills form 
 a good termination to the fcene, while the 
 adjoining church and general face of the 
 landfcape prefents a view, in its ftyle and 
 and character, materially varying from any 
 we have yet met with. From the remains 
 of this caftle it appears to have been a place 
 of great ftrength, and of considerable ex- 
 tent -, it was bnilt by Miles, Earl of Here- 
 
 R ford,
 
 
 ( l ft ) 
 
 ford, in the reign of King Henry I. whofe 
 third fon named Mahel, Camden informs 
 us, was here overtaken by " God's judg- 
 " ments for his rapacious ways, inhuman 
 " cruelties, and boundlefs avarice. For 
 " being courteoufly entertained here by 
 " Walter de Clifford, the caftle taking fire, 
 " he loft his life by the fall of a (tone on 
 " his head, from the higheft tower." The 
 cuftody of St. Briaval's,. with the Foreft of 
 Dean, was granted to John de Monemouth, 
 in the eighteenth year of King John. The 
 Earl of Berkeley is the prefent conftable, 
 and the Duke of Beaufort, under whofe di- 
 rection the caftle is kept in a good ftate of 
 repair,, is lard of the manor. The tower in 
 the weft front is now uied as a Driibn. 
 From hence, the views of the furroundin^ 
 country are extenfive and beautiful - 3 and 
 here the meandering of the Wye paints the 
 landfcape, as in its general courfe, and 
 fpreads- richnefs and fertility In the vallies 
 
 through
 
 ( «3' ) 
 
 through which it flows. Returning to our 
 boat we pafled Big's Weir, near which, on 
 the bank of the Wye, is the feat of General 
 Rooke, whofe father captured Gibraltar. 
 
 It is fituated in the midrt of a rich paf- 
 turage, and commands a full view of the 
 river, and that interefting variety of moving 
 objects, which its bufy commerce here pre- 
 fents. Amidft a range of beautiful fcenery, 
 we pafs the pleafant village of Llandogar 
 about a mile below. Here the river forms 
 a fmooth and glafTy bay, through which the 
 white failed vefTel is feen conftantly gliding, 
 or lying moored on the more to take in her 
 freight. The undulating hills, called the 
 Hudnelis, form a beautiful back ground to 
 this charming fcene, of which the annexed 
 view will give a faint idea. 
 
 A little below is Cadithil Weir, from 
 whence we dropped pleafantly down the 
 
 R 2 ftream
 
 ft ream to another village called Brook's 
 Weir, which is confidered a half way dis- 
 tance from Monmouth to Chepftow. At 
 this place the goods fent from Monmouth 
 are fhipped and conveyed in larger veflels to 
 Br ftol. The river, in an eafy meandering 
 courfe, foon brought us within view of the 
 moft picturefque object on its banks, the 
 fplendid and very elegant ruin of Tintern 
 Abbey, 
 
 tc Thefe are fair fcenes where if art whilom trod, 
 " Led by the worll of guides fell tyranny, 
 " And with lefs fuperftition, we now trace 
 " Pier footfleps with delight; and pleas'd revere 
 " What once we fhould have hated." 
 
 Approaching this fublime and fequef- 
 tered fpot, the enthunaftic lover of fimpli- 
 city in art and nature, the admirer of the 
 pifturefque and beautiful, the antiquary 
 and the moralift will feel the effect, as it 
 were, of enchantment, and become loft al- 
 moft in a pleafing melancholy. The fleepy 
 
 hills,
 
 X 
 
 s 
 
 
 tN
 
 ( l 33 ) 
 
 hills ? the hanging woods, the xo^'^% 
 fiream, the nodding ruin, the furviving 
 monuments of fallen grandeur and beauty 
 in decay ; the conftrucled fpace, the fkiilnels 
 and retirment, all confpire to imprefs the 
 mind with awe, and for a moment withdraw 
 from its vain purfuit of wealth and power, 
 and ab(tra6l it from the world. On this re- 
 main, a very able writer has remarked, that 
 <c were the building ever fo beautiful, in- 
 " compared as it is with fhabby houfes, it 
 " could make no appearance from the ri- 
 f< ver." In this we effentially differ, and 
 prefent the annexed view in fupport of our 
 opinion. Here every cottage appears as it 
 really exifts on the fpot -, and the petty, or 
 if* you pleafe paltry accompaniments to 
 which he alludes, appear to us £o far from 
 diminifhing the grandeur of the general 
 efFecr, that they ferve rather on the con- 
 trary as a fcale, and give magnitude to the 
 principal objecr. 
 
 The 
 
 
 

 
 ( '34 ) 
 
 The ruined windows, pillars, and 
 mouldings are all of them very elegant fpe- 
 cimens of the moil perfect ftyle of Gothic 
 architecture. That wreck and defolation to 
 which the revolution of opinion, the wafte- 
 ful rapacity and tyranny of Henry, had 
 fubjec"ted this lovely fpot, would have pre- 
 fented only marks of violence, and under 
 the pretence of religion, the ravaging arm 
 of an unprincipled barbarian. It is to the 
 gentler tyranny, the filent and progreflive 
 ravages, of time, that we owe many of 
 thofe delicate touches and features of beauty 
 that embelliih this elegant and interelting 
 ruin. Thefe have contributed to foften 
 down the (harper edges of the duffel, and, 
 by blending its variegated tufts of mofs, 
 and fpreading and overhanging with its 
 loofe drapery, and many tinted greens, the 
 highly wrought ornaments and fculpture of 
 the place, have given to the whole a richnefs 
 and mellownefs, far beyond the reach of art. 
 
 The
 
 ( '35 ) 
 
 The fmall gothic Gate at the entrance 
 from the water, was evidently an adjunct 
 of the abbey, and the remaining fmall 
 buildings adjoining, formed part of its out- 
 offices. The abbey was founded A. D. 1 1 3 1. 
 by Walter de Clare, for monks of the Cif- 
 tercian order: and dedicated to Saint Mary. 
 About the time of the revolution, here were 
 thirteen religious houfes, whofe eftates were 
 eftimated according to Dugdale at one hun- 
 dred and ninety- two pounds, one fhilling 
 and four pence per annum. The fite was 
 granted in the twenty-eighth of Henry the 
 VIII. to Henry Earl of Worcefter, from 
 whom it has defcended to the prefent Duke 
 of Beaufort. 
 
 On entering this fublime ruin the mind 
 is (truck with a reverential and religious 
 awe : a fenfation which can be no more ex- 
 prefled by words, than it can in this full ex- 
 tent be excited by all the graces of Grecian 
 
 propor-
 
 ( «3* ) 
 
 proportions, and all the decencies of ortho- 
 dox worfhip. The noble cluttered column? 
 form a beautiful fcene in perfpeclive j and, 
 while fome of the rich Gothic ornaments 
 and pointed arches above, prelent themielves 
 as if magically fufpended, and raife an idea 
 of grandeur, accompanied, if not with alarm 
 with fome degree of furprife, the various 
 ruinated fragments of capitals and pillars 
 below, which lie fcattered indifcriminately 
 and in part overgrown and buried in beds 
 of wild flowers and verdant tendrils, create 
 an interefting diforder, and fuggeft ideas, 
 though perhaps of a melancholy tinge, yet 
 fo far from a diftreffing nature as to lull the 
 mind to a repofe, congenial to the general 
 turn of the furrounding fcenery. 
 
 Th e fmooth and trim manner in which 
 the ground is here kept, is not, according to 
 our conception, very much in unifon with 
 the affemblage of objects around, where 
 
 broken-
 
 ( J 37 ) 
 
 brokennefs and irregularity are the principal 
 and leading features of the place, the tame- 
 nefs and uniformity produced by it, are in- 
 congruous and out of character. 
 
 •The weftern window, although in point 
 of proportion rather too wide for its height, 
 is yet a curious fpecimen of the ancient Go- 
 thic, and no contemptible ftudy for one who 
 is fmitten with a true paffion for the an- 
 tique. The roof of the building is entirely 
 fallen in, and with it forne of the pillars are 
 loft, but their bafes ftill remain above the 
 furface of the ground, fo as to enable the 
 antiquary, if he has the leaft of the archi- 
 tect about him, very eafily to give a ground 
 plot of the whole. 
 
 In the middle of the nave, the lofty 
 arches which once fupported the fleeple, rife 
 high above the reft ; but though they retain 
 
 S their
 
 ( '38 ) 
 
 their forms, they are reduced to a mere 
 ridge of ftone. 
 
 The neighbouring iron works belonging 
 to Mr. Tanner of Monmouth, will afford 
 a different fcene, and mould be vifited by 
 every traveller. Here the quiet and repofe 
 of the cottage is happily contracted by the 
 activity and buftle of the forge. 
 
 In paffing along the river fide to the 
 iron works, many beautiful paflages in land- 
 fcape prefent themfelves j they are compofed 
 of woody and diverfined hills, fimilar to 
 thofe adjoining to the abbey, but heightened 
 by the bufy fcenes of the labourer and ar- 
 tificer, conftantly employed in the adjacent 
 manufactory. The iron works are princi- 
 pally fupplied from Furnefs in Lancafhire 
 with ere, which is difolved by the biafts of 
 immenfe bellows that are worked by means 
 
 of
 
 ( *39 ) 
 
 of cylinder pumps. The beft qualities of 
 the ore are feparated from the drofs by a 
 water wheel and hammers, by which opera- 
 tion con r iderable quantities of pure metal 
 are collected, and the powder is fold to the 
 glafs houfes. Various forges are here con- 
 trived for the purpofe of forming the muti- 
 lated ore into proper fizes, from the largeft 
 bar of iron, to the fmalleft wire. 
 
 S 2 SEC-
 
 ( Hi ) 
 
 SECTION X. 
 
 B 
 
 ENDING our courfe down the Wye 
 we pais a promontory, from whence the 
 eaftern extremity of the abbey prefents it- 
 felf ; but here all is flat and uninterefting, 
 compared with the fcene we have jufl quit- 
 ted. In this point of view the tottering 
 and folitary pillar, remaining in the centre 
 of the great eaft window, appears to be 
 fcarce able to fupport itfelf j thus circum- 
 flanced it is fortunate for the antiquary that 
 very little of the fabric depends upon it, 
 or a great part of that venerable ftru&ure 
 would, ere long, inevitably come to the 
 ground with it. 
 
 We were foon deprived of any further 
 view of this elegant remain by a tfrong 
 wind and tide, which quickly hurried us 
 
 down
 
 C 142 ) 
 
 down the ftream ; but fcenes like thefe, on 
 which the mind has long dwelt in v }p ~ 
 ling meditation nre not r?fyi*~ flaced by 
 a mere change of place : they on the con- 
 trary are rather cherifhed by the preceding 
 fcenery, by the gloom of the rock, the re- 
 pofe of the meadow, and the ftillnefs of the 
 gliding ftream ; nor do they difappear till 
 we mix in the bufy hum of men, till we 
 plunge into the more tumultuous fcene of 
 human life and human paflions. 
 
 Having paffed much beautiful fcenery 
 nearly of the ftyle and character of that 
 which we witneffed about Tintern, here we 
 again difcover the eaftern bank of the Wye 
 fcreened with rocky fubftances, not unlike 
 thofe at Cold well. Thefe fubftances are 
 called the Thorn, and Black Cliffs. The 
 water at this place is much difcoloured, and 
 acquires a thick and clayey hue, evidently 
 produced by the influx of the tide, which is 
 
 heue
 
 ( 143 ) 
 
 here very vifible, and which from the Severn 
 fea, and the low marfhy land on its mores is 
 fo impregnated with mud, and imports it in 
 fuch quantities as to foul the pearly trelTes 
 of the Wye, even to a degree of deformity. 
 
 " The torrent flood, 
 " Thy molten chryftal fills with mud, 
 " Tho' thy lofty head be crown'd 
 a With many a tower and terras round." 
 
 We now approach the rocks that ter- 
 minate the grounds of Persfield; thefe arc 
 tremendous projections hanging over the 
 river, and in their form refemble fo many 
 baftions of a caftle. They are twelve in 
 number, and bear the name of the Twelve 
 Apoftles ; a thirteenth in the fame range is 
 terminated by a flender flone about five 
 feet in height, which is called St. Peter's 
 Thumb. In this fpot we are flruck with 
 a wonderful reverberation of found, fuch 
 as mull afford a curious fpeculation to the 
 
 philofo-
 
 ( 144 ) 
 
 philofophical inquirer into the nature and 
 properties of air, and that conformation of 
 earth and rock and woody accompaniment, 
 which are neceiiary to produce with fuch 
 continued repercuflion, an echo fo clear and 
 diftinc~l. A little below thefe rocks a perfon, 
 fome years ago, fell unhurt from an im- 
 menfe height into the woods on the margin 
 of the river. This almoft. miraculous inter- 
 pofition on his behalf, wrought very little 
 effect upon his life and manners, for fo 
 hardened and incapable was he of being 
 acted upon, either by the recollection of 
 mercies or the dread of punifhment, that, 
 having not long after attended the execution 
 of a friend for a robbery, he conceived in 
 his mind the plan of a fimilar crime, per- 
 petrated it, and fuffered the fame fate. So 
 that his refcue from a watery grave feems to 
 have ferved little purpofe beyond that of ve- 
 rifying the adage, that he, who is deftined 
 to the halter, may brave the precipice and 
 
 the
 
 ( MS ) 
 
 the flood. A little lower down the river 
 we pafs the rocks, from the fudden and pre- 
 cipitate fall they prefent, called the Lover's 
 Leap. Had he not happily been caught by 
 the fhrubbery planted below, Mr. Morris 
 the former pofTefTor, had here fallen a f;cri- 
 fice to his pafiion for thofe limple charms of 
 nature, which he explored and drefTed with 
 a correfpondent tafte. He added to their va- 
 riety without lefTening their intereft. Since 
 that time a profefTed improver has been let 
 in, and the confequence, not the natural 
 confequence, has been that with his roller 
 and fhears, infipid uniformity has identified 
 the ever changeful fcene -, and the flime of 
 this fnail has fcarce lefs deformed its dells, 
 its craggy hills, and its groves, than has the 
 mud of the Severn that polluted its waters. 
 To prevent any fuch accident in future this 
 gentleman foon after fixed a rail on the edge 
 of the precipice. By a fteep and unpleafant 
 path, the traveller, from thefe rocks, has 
 
 T fome-
 
 ( '46 ) 
 
 fometimes afcended to the grounds of Pen- 
 field. A circular bend of the river now dis- 
 played to our view the noble ruin of Chep- 
 flow cattle. The Situation of this vener- 
 able building is finking. It is built on the 
 fummit of an immenfe perpendicular rock 7 
 into which it appears rivetted, or rather to 
 be growing out of it j as from the top o£ 
 the battlements, down to the bafe of the cliff 
 on the margin of the river, it is one conti- 
 nued range of precipice. 
 
 This majeftic remain, is from the pre- 
 fent point of view peculiarly interefting, and 
 in its effect highly piclurefque. The an- 
 cient Gothic entrance partly in ruin, the ir- 
 regular breaks and prominencies in the ge- 
 neral form of the building, which is a mix- 
 ture of the Norman and Saxon ftyle, are m 
 many parts overgrown with large clumps of 
 ivy and variegated fhrubs, fometimes beauti- 
 fully cluttered among the fragments of the 
 
 cattle^
 
 oN 
 
 ^ 
 
 •S 
 
 •8
 
 C 147 ) 
 
 caftle, and again falling down and enriching 
 the white and awful cliff below. 
 
 The adjoining bridge from its height, 
 lingular conftrucrion, and relative fituation 
 to the caftle has a romantic air, and is well 
 calculated to give general effect to the land- 
 fcape. 
 
 On the oppofite more, the different forms 
 of the cliffs and rich verdure with which 
 they are cloathed, and the mails of the vef- 
 fels from behind the bridge breaking on the 
 eye, complete the fcene, and render it al- 
 together a happy group of objects for the 
 pencil. This bridge is built with timber, 
 and the boards which compofe the floor, 
 are fo laid as to yield to the water and play 
 fome inches, It is feventy feet above the 
 fur face of the river, and is fo conftructed 
 iti confequence of the impetuofity of the 
 tide, which, j-uft as it rumes in from the Se- 
 
 T 2 vera
 
 ( «4« ) 
 
 vern fea, being here fuddenly confined 
 wi'liin a narrow channel, is frequently 
 known to have ri fen forty feet. As it 
 divides the counties of Gloucefter and Mon- 
 mouth, it is kept in repair at their joint- 
 expence. 
 
 According to fome accounts, Chep- 
 flow caftle appears formerly to have occupied 
 a confiderable fpace of ground, not lefs it is 
 prefumed than five acres. About fix hun- 
 dred years fince, it was rebuilt by Gilbert 
 Eari of Pembroke, furnamed Strongbow. 
 This Gilbert was fecond fon of Gilbert de 
 Clare, from him it came after various grants 
 to Charles Somerfet, a fon of the third Duke 
 of Beaufort, afterwards Earl of Worcefter, 
 and from him it defcended to the prefent 
 duke. 
 
 The premifes have been for many 
 years under a leafe for lives, the laft of 
 
 which
 
 ( »49 ) 
 
 fahich is at prefent in 1 794, an aged woman V 
 who (hews the caftle in which fhe was born, 
 Amongft the feveral buildings ftill remain- 
 ing, the chapel demands attention, it is 
 fpacious and has been much ornamented. 
 Twelve large niches with fimicircular arches 
 over them, are formed in the walls. They 
 have feats which are chair high above the 
 floor. The ufes to which they were ap- 
 propriated is not clearly afcertained. The 
 grand entrance on the eaft fide, is a noble 
 and venerable remain of the Norman ftile 
 q{ building, it ftands between two lofty 
 towers, and is in a good ftate of preferva- 
 tion. Much of the Roman wall, in the 
 north weft angle of the chapel, appears in 
 the courfes of bricks between the ftone fa- 
 cings. 
 
 In the civil difTentions of the laft cen- 
 tury, this caftle was confidered of great im- 
 portance
 
 ( 15° ) 
 
 portance to both parties, and a garrifon was 
 continued here after the restoration. A fpa- 
 cious apartment is flill fhewn in which 
 Henry Maitin, one of the king's judges, was 
 confined a clofe prifoner for twenty feven 
 years. 
 
 The life of this remarkable man was 
 fpared, he having furrendered himfelf con- 
 formable to the proclamation iflued, when 
 that event took place. His eflates in Berk- 
 ihire, which were confiderable, were fequef- 
 tered, and here he refided till 1680, when 
 according to Anthony Wood, he died fud* 
 denly while at dinner, at the age of 78. 
 He was buried in Chepftow church, and on 
 his tomb Hone were engraved the following 
 lines. As they are now obliterated and are 
 faid to have been written by himfelf, they 
 may be thought worth preferving. The 
 Epitaph is an Acroftic. 
 
 HERE }
 
 ( '5' ) 
 
 HERE, SEPTEMBER THE NINTH, 
 
 WAS BURIED 
 
 A TRUE ENGLISHMAN, 
 
 Who in Berkfhire, was well known 
 
 To love his country's freedom 'bove his own ; 
 
 But being immured full twenty year, 
 
 Had time to write as doth appear. 
 
 HIS EPITAPH. 
 
 H ere or elfewhere, (all's one to you, to me 
 E arth, air, or water, gripes my ghoftly duft, 
 N one knows how foon to be by fire fet free : 
 R eader if you an oft try'd rule will truft, 
 Y ou'U gladly do and fuffer what you mufr. 
 
 M y time was fpent in ferving you, and you 
 
 A nd death's my pay, it feems, and welcome too$. 
 
 R evenge deftroying but itfelf, while I, 
 
 T o birds of prey leave my old cage and fly. 
 
 E xamples preach to the eye : care then, mine fays, 
 
 N ot how you end, but how you fpend your days. 
 
 Some years after its interment, by or- 
 der of the then clergyman, the body was 
 removed to an obfcure fituation, that the 
 
 church
 
 church might not be difgraced by containing 
 the allies of a regicide. Chepflow parilh 
 church, formed a part of the old priory be- 
 longing to the Benedictine monks founded in 
 the reign of King Stephen. Leland fays this 
 
 was a cell to Bermondfey abbey, but it does 
 not appear to be fo in the Firft Fruits Office ; 
 as no rent, or penfion by way of acknow- 
 ledgement, is there recorded to that abbey. 
 
 The ftyle of building of this church 
 is pure Norman, the arches of the nave are 
 circular, which are fupported by fquare maf- 
 five pillars in a very perfect flate. The en- 
 trance to the well: front is in a very fine ftyle, 
 of the fame architecture, the proportions 
 are juft, and the pillars and mouldings are 
 richly decorated in the tafte of that period. 
 As we have quoted ore monumental in- 
 fcription, from this ancient receptacle of 
 the dead, we flatter ourfelves that we may 
 without making an obituary of this work, 
 
 be
 
 ( 'S3 ) 
 
 be permitted to contrail: the two follow- 
 ing. The firfl was on a fea captain, who 
 died in 1774. 
 
 The blufterous blafls, and Neptune's waves, 
 
 Have toft me too, and fro ; 
 In fpite of all, by God's decree 
 I harbour here below. 
 Here I am anchor'd with many of our fleet, 
 But we fhall fail again, our Admiral Chrift to meek 
 
 The following is on John Davis, a 
 jockey of this town, who feems determined 
 in his technical phrafes to outdo, not only 
 the captain, but to diftance all that may 
 hereafter be faid on the fubject. 
 
 'Tis vain to trufl: to human ftrength, or art, 
 When God doth ftrive, ye will fmall aid impart 
 As my mifhap, 'tho fkill'd in riding, fhows 
 That the Almighty, horfe and rider throws. 
 Be then prepar'd, my friends, fincc accidents 
 May in an inftant hurry you from hence. 
 
 From Chepftow by a very pleafant ride 
 we vifued the charming grounds of Perf- 
 
 U field
 
 ( 154 > 
 
 field a fpot where nature has been uncom- 
 monly profufe, not only in the difpofition 
 of the beautiful Hopes and waving lawns 
 that enrich and compofe the grounds them- 
 felves, but in the extenfive and diverfified 
 fcenery that ftrikes the eye, from every point 
 of view. I have here felected from amidft 
 a profufion of magnificent and fafcinating 
 objects, rarely to be met with in this or any 
 other country, a very extenfive iketch that 
 includes Chepftow caftle, and the town be- 
 neath, together with the rocky cliffs defign- 
 ed as it were by nature to bound the courfe 
 of the Wye, whofe beautiful meandering 
 extends for a diftance of three miles, and 
 then lofes itfelf in the greater waters of ths 
 Severn. Here 
 
 <£ PleasM Vags pourM 
 
 6i His fea green ftreams, deep murmuring beneath 
 " The hanging bovvers and glittering rocks ; while wide 
 * l The rougher Severn ftretch'd his arm, beitrew'd 
 M With (Lining fails, to the capaciois tccan." 
 
 This
 
 ( i5S ) 
 
 This enchanting fcene is bounded by 
 the Gloucefrerlhire and Sonerfctuhire hills, 
 and affords a fubject for landfcape, more 
 fublime and piclurefque than the mo3: fer- 
 tile imagination can conceive. An attempt 
 to defcribe every beautiful object that pre- 
 fects itfelf within the circuit of thefe 
 grounds, would in the recital be tedious and 
 Unlnterefting, I (hall therefore only obferve, 
 that the fcenery on this fpot is perpetually 
 diverfified, and nature every where rifes be- 
 yo.id the reach of art. The enciofed view, 
 though I may in my attempt have merited 
 the pi aife of fidelity, will I fear convey but 
 a faint and unimpreflive idea of that fcenery 
 which, is adapted only to the talent and pen- 
 cil of a Claude Lorraine. 
 
 In contemplating this magnificent and 
 ftupendous alfemblage of nature and art, 
 we are led as it were inftincYively to deplore 
 the melancholy reverfe of fortune, that fad- 
 
 U 2 deneJ
 
 ( «5<5 ) 
 
 den?d the laft days of the original defigner 
 and owner of this charming fpot ; of him 
 whofe elegant mind and munificent hand 
 coal J, out of the rude uncultivated mafs s 
 project and raife to the higher! flate of per- 
 fection a monument of tafte, that mufl 
 remain an ornament to his country. 
 
 We could not take our leave of Chep- 
 flow, without giving a retrofpective view of 
 the caftle, and its tremendous rocky bafe 
 and diftant fcenery over which we had juft 
 paded. The romantic bridge and bufy fcene 
 on the water, all combined to aid the landr 
 fcape, and to give a further illuflration of 
 this fafcinating place. Chepftow, the grand 
 and central port of the commerce of our 
 river, is here finely difplayed by the throng 
 that lined the wharf, and the grove of trad- 
 ing veflels through which we palled. The 
 lofty and high impending fcreen of rocks, 
 on either fide the river, rendered our pafTage 
 
 down
 
 C '57 ) 
 
 down the ftream delightful. Amongft thefe 
 the red rocks and Hard wick cliff are pecu- 
 liarly attractive, in the latter many large 
 appertures have been dug that are paflable, 
 and extend forty, or fifty yards from the 
 entrance, and in the vicinity is a remarkable 
 fine well of water, that gives the name of 
 Thorn well to a beautiful range of woods, 
 adjoining the termination of Hardwick cliff. 
 
 The annexed view of what are called 
 the Tied Rocks, will give a general idea of the 
 face of the river, in our pafiage down to the 
 mouth of the Wye, where we found the 
 tide uncommonly rapid, and where if the 
 wind is brifk, the waters are troublefomely 
 rough. 
 
 It is here matter of much regret, that 
 we cannot with fidelity introduce the dif- 
 tant Severn, which would have rendered the 
 view more complete. At Ewen's rocks, 
 
 about
 
 ( >5S ) 
 
 about a mile below, that noble river breaks 
 extenfively on the eye, and prefents a beau- 
 tiful fcene, but it is altogether an inferior 
 one to that before us. 
 
 At the conflux of the Wye, or in the 
 vicinity of Beacuiey, (the old paffage houfe) 
 the Severn is feen to greater advantage. The 
 diftant hills of Glouceiierfhire and Somer- 
 fetfhire, beautifully interfering each other 
 in varied tints, while intervening objects of 
 carries, villages, and manfions of the weal- 
 thy and great on the oppofite more, richly 
 diverfify and compleat the whole. The dif- 
 tance, compofed of Walton hills about ten 
 miles below, breaks beautifully on the eye, 
 and forms a happy termination acrofs King's- 
 road and the Briftol channel. 
 
 From hence the groups of veflels that 
 are conftantlv moored near the mouth of the 
 Briftol Avon, although at a diftance of near 
 
 three
 
 ( '59 ) 
 
 three miles, are perfectly diftinguifhable. 
 The immenfe quantity of (hipping perpetu- 
 ally palling and repaying before the eye, 
 convey a magnificent idea, both of that ce- 
 lebrated mart of our country, the city of 
 Briftol, and of the extenfive commerce of 
 the Severn, a river, memorable and facred 
 almofl as the wizard Dee in ancient fong ; 
 a torrent before the grandeur of whofe flood, 
 our more beautiful Wye feels diminished and 
 fubmits her humbler and tributary ftream, a 
 torrent whofe guardian fpirit we fhall at 
 another, and we truft no very diflant day 
 hope to invoke, and with 
 
 " Shepherds in the feftival of peace 
 
 " Carol her goodnefs loud in ruftic lays, 
 
 ** And throw fweet garland wreaths into her ftream 
 
 " Of panfies, pinks, and gaudy daffodils. 
 
 FINIS.
 
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